quadgram

This is a table of type quadgram and their frequencies. Use it to search & browse the list to learn more about your study carrel.

quadgram	frequency
as shown in fig	272
the end of the	172
the ends of the	148
as shown in the	146
the top of the	139
the edge of the	125
the bottom of the	97
is shown in fig	94
the sides of the	91
the edges of the	79
work read carefully marking	79
before beginning work read	78
beginning work read carefully	78
up any other references	77
look up any other	77
and look up any	77
the thickness of the	75
in the case of	73
in the same way	67
each side of the	66
the back of the	65
the width of the	64
the side of the	64
shown in the drawing	62
shown in the illustration	62
at right angles to	61
the inside of the	59
the length of the	57
at the same time	56
of a piece of	53
it is well to	50
the rest of the	49
the center of the	48
right angles to the	48
the centre of the	47
by means of a	44
at the end of	43
it is used in	43
the face of the	43
the end of a	42
the surface of the	41
in the form of	41
in the same manner	41
the direction of the	41
the grain of the	40
the under side of	38
a piece of wood	38
to the top of	38
care must be taken	38
on each side of	37
in front of the	36
under side of the	36
the tops of the	35
one end of the	34
the head of the	33
the edge of a	33
the middle of the	33
can be made of	33
to the end of	32
can be used for	32
as in the case	32
it is necessary to	31
that shown in fig	31
the same way as	31
the outside of the	30
to this chapter for	29
the position of the	29
end of introduction to	29
this chapter for directions	29
of introduction to this	29
introduction to this chapter	29
the diameter of the	29
the size of the	29
the sides and ends	29
see end of introduction	29
chapter for directions about	29
for directions about smoothing	29
it is a good	28
a block of wood	28
the front of the	28
the same manner as	28
in the direction of	27
on top of the	27
at the top of	27
the other end of	27
it is better to	26
so that it will	26
grain of the wood	26
care should be taken	26
one side of the	26
in line with the	26
an inch and one	26
as shown at fig	26
on account of the	25
as shown in figs	25
the point of the	25
each end of the	25
the upper end of	25
be made out of	24
by means of the	24
the use of the	24
as soon as the	24
so as to be	23
in the end of	23
in such a way	23
made out of a	23
upper end of the	22
other end of the	22
the case of the	22
to the sides of	22
is one of the	22
to the ends of	22
on the under side	22
the top and bottom	22
in a similar manner	21
to the under side	21
direction of the grain	21
the form of a	21
the shape shown in	21
with a piece of	21
in the top of	20
on the inside of	20
eighths of an inch	20
the lower end of	20
must be taken to	20
in order that the	19
held in place by	19
the construction of the	19
can be made by	19
if you wish to	19
the depth of the	19
a great variety of	19
will have to be	19
you will find it	19
a good plan to	19
one of the most	19
be used for the	19
it is used for	18
at the upper end	18
this has been done	18
the shape of the	18
on the same principle	18
be found in the	18
a simple matter to	18
driven into the ground	18
when this has been	18
both sides of the	18
with the left hand	17
the line of the	17
in contact with the	17
the weight of the	17
on the other side	17
the holes in the	17
a piece of work	17
in the bottom of	17
is shown at fig	17
the base of the	17
of the wood and	17
wide and feet long	17
in the left hand	17
at the ends of	17
should be made of	17
such a way that	17
in the centre of	17
as well as the	17
is a good plan	17
edge of the board	17
the hole in the	16
is made out of	16
is one in which	16
it is best to	16
a piece of cardboard	16
may be made of	16
will be necessary to	16
can be bought for	16
so as not to	16
lower end of the	16
be sure that the	16
it will be necessary	16
and at the same	16
how to make a	16
on the ends of	16
in the british museum	16
so as to make	16
the handle of the	16
and it will be	15
on the edge of	15
be taken not to	15
to a depth of	15
so as to form	15
there are a number	15
it is desired to	15
of the cutting edge	15
made as shown in	15
to the bottom of	15
at each side of	15
on the end of	15
the case of a	15
as is shown in	15
at the lower end	15
at right angles with	15
to see that the	15
to the thickness of	15
should be taken to	14
on one side and	14
to the edges of	14
the principle of the	14
with the exception of	14
if you have a	14
a hole in the	14
the frame of the	14
not differ from those	14
you will have to	14
a piece of board	14
surface of the wood	14
to the edge of	14
at an angle of	14
do not differ from	14
a great deal of	14
shape shown in fig	14
two pieces of wood	14
which is to be	14
inches wide and feet	14
is known as the	14
same way as the	14
in the center of	14
be flush with the	14
another way is to	14
are a number of	14
as illustrated in fig	14
be fastened to the	14
on the top of	14
a good deal of	14
the flat side of	14
the other side of	14
be made of any	13
which are to be	13
on both sides of	13
the height of the	13
so as to give	13
for the making of	13
on a piece of	13
can be of any	13
is to be used	13
of a number of	13
a strip of wood	13
it can be made	13
in the side of	13
the corner of a	13
sides of the mortise	13
at the other end	13
right angles with the	13
such as is shown	13
the distance from the	13
from side to side	13
to prevent it from	13
for the purpose of	13
are shown in figs	13
on the side of	13
the top can be	13
by the use of	13
the piece to be	13
of the left hand	13
the bed of the	13
top of the bench	13
on the back of	13
do not try to	13
is well to have	13
in the right hand	12
out of a piece	12
the body of the	12
the ends of these	12
upper part of the	12
can be used to	12
it is to be	12
in the kensington museum	12
shows the method of	12
at the bottom of	12
the angle of the	12
in the usual way	12
against the edge of	12
be nailed to the	12
for the sake of	12
be screwed to the	12
on the other hand	12
for the amateur to	12
the upper part of	12
to the side of	12
in a piece of	12
it will be noticed	12
is made by cutting	12
be made in the	12
from the end of	12
the bow and stern	12
to willow clump island	12
will be found in	12
it can be used	12
the appearance of the	12
the arrangement of the	12
at the top and	12
the addition of a	12
that it can be	12
the mortise and tenon	11
so as to allow	11
above and below the	11
so that you can	11
be cut in the	11
if you do not	11
is fastened to the	11
be made as shown	11
details do not differ	11
with a pair of	11
other side of the	11
flat side of the	11
the front and rear	11
with the top of	11
the axis of the	11
the shape and size	11
it will not be	11
the front and back	11
to be found in	11
are shown in fig	11
to the width of	11
end of a piece	11
mortise and tenon joint	11
end of the pole	11
from those of the	11
the cutting edge is	11
bow and stern pieces	11
will be noticed that	11
side of the bench	11
you will see that	11
in the middle of	11
of an inch thick	11
form shown in fig	11
be used as a	11
the best way to	11
made in the same	11
the rest of us	11
to allow for the	11
the end of one	11
the form shown in	11
you can make a	11
at the forward end	11
from the ends of	11
of an inch wide	11
to the size of	11
the center of each	11
it is not necessary	11
may be used for	11
so that they will	11
the use of a	11
edge of the door	11
can be made with	11
can be put together	11
sides of the box	10
at the center of	10
it is hard to	10
in the south kensington	10
the construction of a	10
according to the size	10
can be made out	10
should be fastened to	10
on the surface of	10
in the ends of	10
if you can get	10
a good way to	10
is to have the	10
of one of the	10
out of the way	10
the ridge of the	10
an eighth of an	10
the roof of the	10
that it will not	10
to the inside of	10
the side of a	10
end of the tenon	10
can be done by	10
of the end of	10
there is no need	10
to prevent them from	10
the remaining details do	10
back of the box	10
in this way the	10
the door and window	10
in such a case	10
the peak of the	10
should be cut out	10
so that when the	10
one of the best	10
eighth of an inch	10
is shown in the	10
bed of the lathe	10
this can be done	10
to the bed of	10
exposed to the weather	10
the top of a	10
the same principle as	10
the upper edge of	10
to bear in mind	10
the level of the	10
in the sixteenth century	10
to which it is	10
at the back of	10
remaining details do not	10
when not in use	10
to the point of	10
the character of the	10
end of the backbone	10
to the back of	10
be cut out of	10
the distance between the	10
the position shown in	10
set in the ground	10
the pores of the	10
can easily be made	10
as shown by the	10
and ends of the	10
nail them to the	10
so as to cut	10
by an inch and	9
the top edge of	9
is an example of	9
the corner of the	9
tongued and grooved joint	9
thickness of the stock	9
two inches from the	9
across the grain of	9
was attached to the	9
can be used in	9
than the thickness of	9
the parts of the	9
the part of the	9
is indicated by the	9
you are likely to	9
directly in front of	9
the sides to the	9
the upper ends of	9
but this is not	9
so as to fit	9
the mouth of the	9
is made in the	9
an angle of about	9
in this case the	9
the sides of a	9
not to speak of	9
the points of the	9
if it is not	9
as in the drawing	9
where it is desired	9
that it will be	9
as that of the	9
as nearly as possible	9
the floor of the	9
at each end of	9
is not necessary to	9
with the right hand	9
at a and b	9
edges of the boards	9
the lower portion of	9
and nail them to	9
of the door and	9
what is known as	9
the foot of the	9
such as is used	9
for the beginner to	9
for general bibliography see	9
and at right angles	9
the bottoms of the	9
the point where the	9
upper edge of the	9
like that shown in	9
see nailing and nail	9
the beginning of the	9
a line with the	9
a little larger than	9
a short piece of	9
to the other end	9
should be made in	9
th and th centuries	9
this may be done	9
from the top of	9
as in the illustration	9
position shown in fig	9
in the line of	9
the blade of the	9
similar to that of	9
wood can be used	9
should be used for	9
end of the cord	9
you wish to make	9
through the centre of	9
one end of each	9
the top of each	9
it will be a	9
forward end of the	9
at the side of	9
the corners of the	9
to one of the	9
this is a good	9
can be done with	9
is held in the	9
plate and chuck turning	9
you will find the	9
it is advisable to	9
are fastened to the	9
the walls of the	9
the upper and lower	9
out of the water	9
a sketch of a	9
on the principle of	9
the action of the	9
half the thickness of	9
for the construction of	8
is illustrated in fig	8
is very useful for	8
of any desired size	8
are the same as	8
which it can be	8
the wood with the	8
how to build a	8
the kind of wood	8
can be obtained by	8
sides and ends of	8
same way as a	8
should be taken not	8
is likely to be	8
to a height of	8
out and cut the	8
it is usual to	8
from the edge of	8
on a line with	8
end of the wood	8
for such work as	8
general bibliography see p	8
be made of stock	8
is to be cut	8
the outline of the	8
the other end to	8
was made in the	8
the wood of the	8
in order to make	8
in the united states	8
from the forward end	8
on one side of	8
be sunk in the	8
in the same plane	8
is used for the	8
that it may be	8
edge of the wood	8
a mortise and tenon	8
the result will be	8
with the aid of	8
it will be seen	8
to be flush with	8
bottom of the boat	8
the front edge of	8
the hole for the	8
is to be made	8
there will be no	8
to the front of	8
is not to be	8
this type of joint	8
will find it a	8
to the center of	8
a way that the	8
in order to get	8
may be used as	8
to a thickness of	8
it is a simple	8
it is easy to	8
edge of a board	8
on the outside of	8
the forward end of	8
the cutting edge of	8
pores of the wood	8
in addition to the	8
to hold it in	8
can be made as	8
the left hand and	8
for the use of	8
opposite sides of the	8
the quality of the	8
by the dotted lines	8
on the flat side	8
angles to the surface	8
two or more pieces	8
at the point where	8
the centre of each	8
than that of the	8
end of the board	8
it is one of	8
the shape of a	8
on the face side	8
is a simple matter	8
is to make the	8
one of the simplest	8
the exception of the	8
the same as in	8
to make a good	8
one or both of	8
if you can afford	8
end of the stick	8
in the construction of	8
is similar to that	8
along the edge of	8
on a level with	8
be nailed in place	8
the size of a	8
cut out of the	8
lower portion of the	8
to be used for	8
in position on the	8
work can be done	8
large enough for the	8
they are to be	8
first get out the	8
for a small sum	8
and so on until	8
should be nailed to	8
type of joint is	8
as may be necessary	8
laying out the work	8
above the level of	8
to the direction of	8
of the medullary rays	8
in case of a	8
as to allow the	8
a knife or chisel	8
it is impossible to	8
the joints of the	8
differ from those of	8
side of the wood	8
it is used to	8
for an amateur to	8
in the illustration of	8
enough to allow the	8
care being taken to	7
upon a piece of	7
and the other two	7
between the thumb and	7
in one of the	7
will be flush with	7
at one end of	7
to be sure that	7
on the waste side	7
may be well to	7
but as a rule	7
fasten them to the	7
with the addition of	7
there is danger of	7
cut across the grain	7
of willow clump island	7
at the edge of	7
as it can be	7
over the ends of	7
of the work and	7
with a knife point	7
are to be found	7
were nailed to the	7
great care must be	7
the heads of the	7
at the head of	7
the illustration of the	7
a few of the	7
of a pair of	7
it may be well	7
when the work is	7
to the axis of	7
the entire length of	7
with the cutting edge	7
is known as a	7
to see if it	7
the dimensions of the	7
should be cut in	7
end of the handle	7
of the shape shown	7
the lines of the	7
from one end of	7
long enough to reach	7
made out of two	7
edge of the bench	7
a couple of nails	7
level with the top	7
are to be used	7
in such cases as	7
the waste side of	7
in the drawing of	7
bear in mind that	7
as may be required	7
shown by the dotted	7
you wish to use	7
in advance of the	7
be made with the	7
the space between the	7
of a door frame	7
the portion of the	7
screwed to the bottom	7
to the other side	7
in the way of	7
one side and then	7
piece of wood to	7
in which it is	7
for a long time	7
while the rest of	7
to that of the	7
in such a position	7
from front to back	7
a piece of leather	7
can be fastened to	7
bore a hole through	7
is the same as	7
side of the mortise	7
near the edge of	7
the whole of the	7
the rear of the	7
the members of the	7
as in making a	7
is that shown in	7
was nailed to the	7
side of the frame	7
of the other member	7
in the first place	7
a level with the	7
gouge on the rest	7
when exposed to the	7
so that they can	7
as shown at a	7
you have only to	7
the work can be	7
edges of the sides	7
posts set in the	7
such as shown in	7
the application of the	7
and it is a	7
is shown in figs	7
in the use of	7
on the rest with	7
and fasten them to	7
in the edge of	7
one in which the	7
have occasion to use	7
the pattern in fig	7
must be taken not	7
one at a time	7
with the rest of	7
the ends of a	7
it should not be	7
is similar to the	7
flush with the surface	7
is not a good	7
to be cut out	7
can be put on	7
be at right angles	7
such a position that	7
a hole is bored	7
inches wide for the	7
the rest with the	7
in the same direction	7
is screwed to the	7
same manner as the	7
be careful not to	7
it out of the	7
thickness of the timber	7
will be very useful	7
be made of a	7
axis of the cylinder	7
the gouge on the	7
it consists of a	7
at the rear end	7
the holes for the	7
is a good length	7
the shelves can be	7
edge of the tool	7
as is used for	7
entire length of the	7
that the cutting edge	7
door and window openings	7
which it is to	7
is a good way	7
or it can be	7
side of the box	7
at the corner of	7
as indicated in fig	7
so that it may	7
from the centre of	7
lower ends of the	7
and a number of	7
as to form a	7
the palm of the	7
take a piece of	7
against the side of	7
to the tops of	7
or both of the	7
top and bottom of	7
on the opposite side	7
lay out and cut	7
as a matter of	7
end of the saw	7
to the right and	7
an easy matter to	7
over the edge of	7
held in the vise	7
the end of each	7
a and b in	7
the groove in the	7
see that they are	7
a distance of about	7
on the upper side	7
by a piece of	7
inches from the ends	7
by the number of	7
make it possible to	7
the fact that the	7
the lower ends of	7
it is easier to	7
edge of the other	7
it is customary to	7
in their proper places	7
so far as the	7
you will find that	7
so as to prevent	7
the same principle that	7
parallel to the bed	7
to fit over the	7
in the usual manner	7
of the front and	7
simple matter to make	7
is hardly worth while	7
and cut out the	6
full length of the	6
side of the roof	6
be noticed that the	6
has been put together	6
if the edge is	6
for which it is	6
on the bottom of	6
to split the wood	6
top of the box	6
the bottom edge of	6
of an inch in	6
of a board is	6
inner ends of the	6
and the rest of	6
you are going to	6
the manner in which	6
to be made in	6
can be adjusted to	6
to make sure that	6
be held in the	6
from the under side	6
to the gauge line	6
seem to have been	6
so that the cutting	6
the wood will be	6
fasten it in place	6
surface of the board	6
there are many kinds	6
so that the top	6
the cut will be	6
the sides can be	6
is said to be	6
can also be made	6
the top to the	6
cut out of a	6
that they will be	6
where it is necessary	6
of the fifteenth century	6
with a strip of	6
one end to the	6
the boards should be	6
much the same as	6
of the wood is	6
which can be made	6
lower edge of the	6
laid out on the	6
cut in the end	6
be used to good	6
a piece of waste	6
end of a board	6
is to keep the	6
from which to make	6
top of the car	6
the method known as	6
as long as the	6
shown in the illustrations	6
to the fact that	6
the back edge of	6
see boring and screws	6
is a sketch of	6
the teeth of the	6
to be used in	6
to the outside of	6
end of the upper	6
piece of waste wood	6
face side of the	6
is determined by the	6
the pieces to be	6
find it a simple	6
are nailed to the	6
in the preceding cases	6
can be easily made	6
those of the articles	6
for a distance of	6
the simplest way to	6
you can get a	6
another scheme for a	6
a piece of soft	6
as a practical matter	6
upper ends of the	6
indicated by the dotted	6
ends of the mortise	6
as shown at c	6
same manner as you	6
firmly against the edge	6
through the hole in	6
should not be used	6
enough to make a	6
as indicated in the	6
a small piece of	6
should be got out	6
the feet of the	6
is by no means	6
the chisel is held	6
indicated by the length	6
out of the question	6
were attached to the	6
the full length of	6
edge of the blade	6
the left side of	6
be taken to select	6
the inside edge of	6
the knuckle of the	6
of the blade is	6
side of the board	6
in the position shown	6
pieces of wood are	6
cut a piece of	6
outside of the line	6
it as shown in	6
be used for a	6
the object of the	6
this is done by	6
the south kensington museum	6
addition of a little	6
end of the box	6
the wood can be	6
with the end of	6
which you can buy	6
an inch and three	6
is used in the	6
the outer end of	6
as you will see	6
can be found in	6
in the tops of	6
well to have a	6
the length of a	6
top edge of the	6
b and c frames	6
are given in the	6
is let into the	6
such a way as	6
wide and inches long	6
it is liable to	6
place the gouge on	6
the wood and the	6
will be found to	6
a guide for the	6
the same time the	6
into the end of	6
is better to have	6
in a block of	6
of the right hand	6
half an inch wide	6
hold it in place	6
a length of feet	6
an angle of degrees	6
to make a tight	6
from sticking to the	6
corner of a frame	6
can be made on	6
wish to make a	6
will be a good	6
so that it can	6
the construction of this	6
in the latter case	6
the accuracy of the	6
with a sharp knife	6
in connection with the	6
and a pair of	6
end of the piece	6
that the ends of	6
prevent it from slipping	6
hole bored in the	6
inside edge of the	6
the wood so that	6
across the end of	6
to speak of the	6
together by means of	6
when the door is	6
it a simple matter	6
quarters of an inch	6
get to the point	6
flat on the bench	6
if you have one	6
center of the stock	6
should be of the	6
is made in two	6
be found to be	6
the head of a	6
when you wish to	6
the left of the	6
to cut out the	6
the wood should be	6
as that shown in	6
it so that the	6
you get to the	6
of the sides and	6
but it is better	6
was fastened to the	6
in place of the	6
done at a mill	6
similar to that shown	6
which you can easily	6
the parts to be	6
be raised or lowered	6
equal to the thickness	6
the centres of the	6
as in the cases	6
edge of the top	6
than can be expected	6
bottom edge of the	6
method of using the	6
shows the application of	6
the cheeks of the	6
from end to end	6
side of a board	6
you can easily make	6
it will be found	6
be driven into the	6
parallel to each other	6
depth of the cut	6
and fastened to the	6
boards together with battens	6
about the size of	6
projecting ends of the	6
the fibres of the	6
will do very well	6
the wood in the	6
so we had to	6
for a boy to	6
and draw a line	6
an inch in diameter	6
used to good advantage	6
the pressure of the	6
with strips of linen	6
edge of a piece	6
bore holes in the	6
were driven into the	6
part of the work	6
quality of the wood	6
the drawing of the	6
a tongued and grooved	6
two sides of the	6
a position that the	6
the tongued and grooved	6
can be expected of	6
at the rate of	6
in the ordinary way	6
on a couple of	6
it back and forth	6
two pieces of timber	6
be of any desired	6
as the case may	6
to be cut away	6
good way is to	6
one side of each	6
by the length of	6
mortise and tenon joints	6
in place by a	6
taken to select clear	6
so that the end	6
the expansion and contraction	6
the face side of	6
together as shown in	6
the lines for the	6
in the vice and	6
as well as to	6
for the same purpose	6
the object is to	6
workmanlike way is to	6
as indicated by the	6
to act as a	6
inches wide and inches	6
made in the end	6
be made with a	6
of the annual rings	6
end of the tube	6
left side of the	6
in the following chapter	6
the form of the	6
should not be too	6
and fastened in place	6
than the width of	6
the cases already shown	6
them as shown in	6
a piece of heavy	6
in such a manner	6
so as to keep	6
to a length of	6
in the middle ages	6
the lower part of	6
on one side only	6
may be made out	6
a series of holes	6
place by means of	6
front end of the	6
about inches from the	6
is better than a	6
the front end of	6
will be seen that	6
is a good idea	6
end of the bench	6
with a sharp pencil	6
and a piece of	5
inches is a good	5
where it will be	5
will answer your purpose	5
expedition to willow clump	5
which to fasten the	5
can be held in	5
be nailed or screwed	5
the fitting of the	5
at a distance of	5
tops of the legs	5
made for the purpose	5
is very apt to	5
down to a thickness	5
the ends of each	5
sides of the house	5
but there is no	5
the left hand on	5
end of which is	5
to keep them in	5
for the sides of	5
which you can make	5
construction is similar to	5
to shed the water	5
the work to be	5
the method of using	5
a good size is	5
when we wanted to	5
if the sides are	5
on the face of	5
so as to leave	5
they should be made	5
inches from the edge	5
this principle are as	5
the top and the	5
plane is used for	5
cut out the wood	5
are not to be	5
has the advantage of	5
were cut in the	5
the inner ends of	5
for the door to	5
aim of this book	5
should be made for	5
the two pieces are	5
it is important to	5
is often used to	5
as to make the	5
was laid on the	5
shape shown in the	5
should be kept in	5
nail it to the	5
end of the house	5
in some other way	5
when you get to	5
to an angle of	5
end of one member	5
the wood to be	5
of which can be	5
six inches above the	5
the figure of the	5
we had to make	5
on the sides and	5
to the line with	5
for a very small	5
is not difficult to	5
book on the subject	5
the stock for the	5
you can get along	5
to see that they	5
should be procured for	5
of joint is used	5
in the opposite direction	5
of the same width	5
principle are as follows	5
the frame can be	5
the top of this	5
on the bench and	5
from the center of	5
on opposite sides of	5
so that the grind	5
there are two methods	5
it is desirable to	5
raised from the ground	5
as well as a	5
can also be used	5
be nailed around the	5
can be made to	5
where it can be	5
from to in thickness	5
desired to have the	5
without the aid of	5
the bottom of a	5
the skill of the	5
end of the cork	5
all that is necessary	5
width of the building	5
with the exception that	5
inches long by six	5
with the face of	5
front edge of the	5
the floor beams were	5
it would be well	5
the outside of a	5
the top may be	5
the work with the	5
you can use the	5
as a means of	5
be made similar to	5
of the box and	5
the tool with the	5
as wide as the	5
as we had done	5
into the ends of	5
will be the same	5
be attached to the	5
the shoulders of the	5
with the flat side	5
shows a sketch of	5
of the same kind	5
the rear end of	5
is to groove the	5
for most of your	5
back edge of the	5
a way as to	5
end of the base	5
a good form for	5
be bored in the	5
it would be difficult	5
for the front of	5
piece of hard wood	5
it was made of	5
see that everything is	5
at one end and	5
off the projecting ends	5
in the preceding chapter	5
sole of the plane	5
as far as possible	5
was tied to the	5
to be able to	5
illustrations of this principle	5
driven into the wood	5
in a great variety	5
be studied in the	5
you will have no	5
the angles of the	5
line with each other	5
care of the shop	5
held in the right	5
side of the house	5
the surface of a	5
with the surface of	5
a piece of hard	5
shown in the section	5
angle of the bevel	5
in the fifteenth century	5
to the use of	5
from the bottom of	5
at the sides of	5
as far as it	5
to be glued together	5
over the top of	5
little larger than the	5
that it could be	5
and you can easily	5
up to the surface	5
nothing more than a	5
one side of a	5
was hinged to the	5
parts of the frame	5
to bore the holes	5
thinned with turpentine or	5
the projecting ends of	5
take two pieces of	5
which can be used	5
a little too long	5
to one end of	5
if there is a	5
in the effort to	5
of the tenon is	5
of the house is	5
the south kensington collection	5
work is to be	5
be fastened on the	5
around the edge of	5
is desired to have	5
is more difficult to	5
one at each end	5
knuckle of the hinge	5
in the making of	5
that they can be	5
and is used for	5
into the top of	5
the joint will be	5
by six inches wide	5
and nailed to the	5
to a width of	5
the drawer front is	5
first on one side	5
work as you will	5
the lower edge of	5
across the face of	5
is to be found	5
for all kinds of	5
was cut out of	5
shape and size shown	5
the side toward the	5
long by six inches	5
the wood may be	5
that there is no	5
sunk in the wood	5
the work and the	5
were now ready to	5
we were ready to	5
edge of the chisel	5
peak of the roof	5
held so that the	5
with the help of	5
shown in the cut	5
way is to groove	5
is to be put	5
where they will be	5
to the centre of	5
but should not be	5
it is not easy	5
which a boy can	5
work of this kind	5
the pieces should be	5
over the surface with	5
to keep it in	5
in order to avoid	5
is perpendicular to the	5
by the addition of	5
a thin piece of	5
may be made as	5
all parts of the	5
on one end of	5
the curve of the	5
be put under the	5
the logs of the	5
and can be used	5
and it should be	5
from the working face	5
with a run of	5
housed and mitred dovetail	5
upon the top of	5
as little as possible	5
glue them to the	5
of the right size	5
at the same angle	5
side so that the	5
makes it possible to	5
illustrates the method of	5
in order to prevent	5
in this case it	5
be made for the	5
cutting edge of the	5
so it will be	5
acts as a guide	5
and size shown in	5
in cutting out the	5
are made in the	5
that there will be	5
inches long by three	5
would be difficult to	5
an inch above the	5
being careful to get	5
of the completed theatre	5
the edge of one	5
with the grain running	5
in one end of	5
for the tops of	5
is not at all	5
ends of the crosspiece	5
of the length of	5
waste side of the	5
may be able to	5
this part of the	5
is not easy to	5
the groove for the	5
be used instead of	5
wish to use it	5
a little above the	5
is that of the	5
it is hardly worth	5
you will see from	5
to the shape of	5
are to be glued	5
as it will be	5
will be sure to	5
made similar to fig	5
wood so that the	5
down to the gauge	5
inside of the box	5
to the form shown	5
and the end of	5
as you doubtless know	5
or any strong wood	5
in the same position	5
the edges should be	5
is not advisable to	5
surface of the work	5
they can be used	5
three inches long by	5
the wood must be	5
it will be observed	5
firmly in the ground	5
out of a block	5
angle of the cutting	5
the dotted lines in	5
into the pores of	5
side of the island	5
to that shown in	5
be done with the	5
two strips of wood	5
can be nailed around	5
you come to the	5
to do good work	5
off the ends so	5
in the way already	5
should be sunk in	5
it will be well	5
the fact that it	5
illustration of the completed	5
nailed to the sides	5
of the sides of	5
to which they were	5
as described in chapter	5
the edge on the	5
a quarter of an	5
the joints should be	5
ends of the boards	5
a good way is	5
the end view of	5
it is hoped that	5
character of the wood	5
is nailed to the	5
in the accompanying illustrations	5
made in two sections	5
the upper edges of	5
make a tight joint	5
the same as for	5
in order to have	5
most of your work	5
at the exact center	5
with a sharp chisel	5
side of the upper	5
the left hand should	5
the opening in the	5
as you will do	5
is apt to be	5
be held in place	5
end of the line	5
that used for the	5
lower part of the	5
side of the seat	5
to see that everything	5
outer end of the	5
ends of the car	5
as in cutting a	5
the right hand and	5
and you will find	5
shape and size of	5
edge of the roof	5
care was taken to	5
as the thickness of	5
it is not worth	5
it is not advisable	5
the outside edge of	5
a corner of the	5
may be used in	5
shown by dotted lines	5
it was a very	5
pattern by which to	5
like that of the	5
out of the top	5
anything of the sort	5
being careful not to	5
with the edges of	5
and fasten it to	5
cut to receive the	5
into the shape shown	5
other end to the	5
of the piece to	5
tongued and grooved joints	5
in the middle diagram	5
contrive some way to	5
free circulation of air	5
dotted lines in fig	5
bottom of the box	5
with a chisel or	5
it is not always	5
you will often find	5
with a knife or	5
made in this way	5
be of the same	5
one end of which	5
the top of it	5
a boat of this	5
end of the platform	5
the cutting of the	5
head of the screw	5
a piece of paper	5
and with a sharp	5
by the dotted line	5
width of the tenon	5
the proper handling of	5
top of the other	5
is placed in the	5
can be made in	5
it is essential that	5
a good idea to	5
into a hole in	5
and the width of	5
length of the board	5
the most difficult part	5
along the middle of	5
and held in place	5
with the grain of	5
of the mortise and	5
can be covered with	5
is much easier to	5
nothing is better than	5
as to give a	5
it will be best	5
the joint should be	5
is a very useful	5
those in the preceding	5
it will make a	5
see finishing and painting	5
the aid of the	5
in a short time	5
should be made out	5
not difficult to work	5
with the edge of	5
be expected of the	5
is often very useful	5
one end of it	5
at the points of	5
we were now ready	5
may also be used	5
edge of each side	5
before you begin to	5
upon posts set in	5
be seen in the	5
a good way for	5
once in a while	5
it is necessary that	5
of the handle and	5
for the water wheel	5
with a small brush	5
the aid of a	5
should be taken in	5
are many kinds of	5
to the required depth	5
in place by means	5
to one side or	5
of wood can be	5
the exact centre of	5
the pitch of the	5
sides of the roof	5
the spaces between the	5
equal to the width	5
as in the woodcut	5
van flanders th century	5
the work of the	5
or screwed to the	5
would be well to	5
it must be remembered	5
part of the plane	5
the board will be	5
figure of the grain	5
when you come to	5
the thumb and first	5
with a couple of	5
the case may be	5
should be set in	5
used in the same	5
that the end of	5
rear end of the	5
of this principle are	5
is a great convenience	5
it is much better	5
be borne in mind	5
the line with the	5
is made up of	5
may be cut in	5
the object of this	5
was covered with a	5
be done with a	4
are to be cut	4
the position for the	4
if you can find	4
such a length that	4
and the other for	4
it is essential to	4
will be seen in	4
this is shown at	4
should be made to	4
wide and inch thick	4
in the lathe and	4
bear in mind the	4
to cut with the	4
in mind that the	4
be reached by the	4
on the tool rest	4
form a guide for	4
a slot in the	4
fastened to the body	4
to get them in	4
were fastened to the	4
the double swedish sail	4
and the number of	4
to be subjected to	4
across the tops of	4
the making of this	4
as it is not	4
will add to the	4
the boards for the	4
the other at the	4
and a great variety	4
the back can be	4
close to the edge	4
a cord to the	4
the open end of	4
inches from one end	4
the curve at the	4
what can be made	4
on the top edge	4
in this case is	4
the chisel on the	4
head of the square	4
it can be fastened	4
a sheet of paper	4
the under side to	4
is a form of	4
at the bow and	4
them to the end	4
from the upper end	4
screwed to the under	4
quarter of an inch	4
if the boards are	4
same as for the	4
held in the left	4
two or three coats	4
in the following manner	4
in laying out a	4
is a very important	4
a stick of wood	4
if the building is	4
the angle at the	4
of the board in	4
either side of the	4
taken to keep the	4
a typical form of	4
the wood is held	4
to correspond with the	4
you wish to have	4
the bottom to the	4
is in line with	4
next task was to	4
is necessary is to	4
cut with the grain	4
that the bottom of	4
to be kept in	4
longer than the other	4
side of the cutting	4
so that they may	4
first see that the	4
at an angle with	4
which is called the	4
outside edge of the	4
bottom is nailed on	4
long and inches wide	4
be a great help	4
you are obliged to	4
made of any size	4
construction is the same	4
the size is indicated	4
work for the beginner	4
as in the accompanying	4
according to the conditions	4
and to the left	4
you can afford it	4
guide for the saw	4
or they can be	4
the name of the	4
so on until the	4
which you wish to	4
when the tenon is	4
by three inches wide	4
sides of the boat	4
being at right angles	4
be procured for the	4
at the live center	4
on the part of	4
forms are shown in	4
of a block of	4
can be bought ready	4
as are shown in	4
in the hands of	4
the outer face of	4
by sighting across the	4
with turpentine or benzine	4
speed of the lathe	4
the construction is similar	4
on one edge and	4
the surface with a	4
and remove the wood	4
of a series of	4
be put in place	4
of the same diameter	4
the house and the	4
the stem and stern	4
are sold by the	4
one in which a	4
shown in the sketch	4
edges of the strips	4
the b and c	4
end of the tool	4
into the wood at	4
and as soon as	4
of the sail was	4
an angle with the	4
be strong enough to	4
and fasten it in	4
will depend largely upon	4
which to cut the	4
can be nailed or	4
is distinguished for its	4
can be put in	4
end of each stick	4
joint is used in	4
you can get it	4
top of the rudder	4
into the ground in	4
the saw should be	4
a simple method of	4
the remaining details are	4
hand end of the	4
as is often the	4
those of the cases	4
try to find a	4
the method of jointing	4
be bought for a	4
the latter can be	4
case of the punt	4
the right or left	4
if the grain is	4
when the chisel is	4
along the dotted lines	4
a form which is	4
shown in the drawings	4
face of the hammer	4
of wood of the	4
in the section drawing	4
be out of the	4
of the same size	4
the centre of a	4
order to make the	4
the end of this	4
another method is to	4
in a similar way	4
are now made with	4
any kind of wood	4
is no need to	4
the plan of a	4
the edges of a	4
the same as that	4
it was decided to	4
there is no better	4
and character of the	4
as in case of	4
to one side of	4
in place of a	4
made by boring a	4
with rule and pencil	4
to be of the	4
on the sides of	4
when the pieces are	4
illustrated in this chapter	4
by the method known	4
after the work is	4
one corner of the	4
door can be made	4
hardly worth while to	4
way of the grain	4
and glued to the	4
and fasten them together	4
is much better to	4
of wood between the	4
to a strip of	4
the seat and back	4
be used for this	4
of exactly the same	4
of a board or	4
of the door frame	4
and then from the	4
ridge of the roof	4
side of the piece	4
to a and b	4
the method of cutting	4
projecting end of the	4
the hinges should be	4
between it and the	4
sticking to the work	4
if you are going	4
the treads and risers	4
the same purpose as	4
that they will not	4
to the length of	4
must be taken in	4
varying according to the	4
from one of the	4
the boy who is	4
of the deck beams	4
which forms the cutting	4
so that you will	4
it may be made	4
stock from to in	4
along the centre of	4
to require special description	4
in the corner of	4
the kind of work	4
the lathe should be	4
to the right size	4
the patterns for the	4
at the middle of	4
wooden chain and rattle	4
was made of a	4
place a piece of	4
as for the other	4
was cut to a	4
if you have not	4
the four corners of	4
as is the case	4
which may be made	4
be kept out of	4
each of the four	4
end of the first	4
width of the piece	4
the shoulder of the	4
on the back side	4
back side of the	4
should be made as	4
at c and d	4
get out two pieces	4
from bow to stern	4
with a series of	4
a suggestion for a	4
be taken to have	4
the groove can be	4
and b in fig	4
cut out with a	4
of the house and	4
of the tenon and	4
great variety of purposes	4
cut a strip of	4
it will give the	4
a simple way to	4
end of the stock	4
is to place the	4
to the best advantage	4
of the work to	4
the width in inches	4
chair seat snow shoe	4
the inner side of	4
rest of the work	4
thickness of the tenon	4
which they are to	4
the slot in the	4
half the diameter of	4
is necessary for the	4
in a straight line	4
the bevel on the	4
top of the tower	4
a flooring of slabs	4
the line a b	4
of the top can	4
frame of the boat	4
in the way shown	4
useful for many purposes	4
flush with the back	4
of the saw cut	4
its name from the	4
may be made from	4
of b and c	4
the sharp edge of	4
that the work is	4
in each side of	4
the sole of the	4
house of this sort	4
such as are shown	4
in front of it	4
can be used and	4
of this book to	4
of the various parts	4
with a fine saw	4
in a vertical position	4
you will find this	4
inside of the frame	4
forms the cutting edge	4
just large enough to	4
exact centre of the	4
planed so as to	4
for the rest of	4
as you can find	4
so that it could	4
with the knife or	4
edge of the plane	4
sixteenths of an inch	4
a section of the	4
to the required shape	4
notches were cut in	4
so that it is	4
upper edges of the	4
top of the upper	4
that they may be	4
of wood to the	4
to keep it from	4
stakes driven into the	4
it is known as	4
a large piece of	4
of the rest of	4
according to the thickness	4
with the idea of	4
the places for the	4
and glue them to	4
sides and ends are	4
of what can be	4
of the pieces to	4
in the other end	4
as a general rule	4
the box should be	4
are very apt to	4
the same as the	4
which they are made	4
by the thickness of	4
you wish to be	4
of the two pieces	4
at the base of	4
and first finger of	4
in the middle and	4
was cut in the	4
is an easy matter	4
of the backbone and	4
the back part of	4
the point of contact	4
it becomes necessary to	4
to receive the end	4
size of the piece	4
to cut across the	4
was drilled into the	4
a hole was drilled	4
be covered with canvas	4
should always be kept	4
swimming on a plank	4
out of cardboard and	4
portion of the leg	4
outer face of the	4
moved back and forth	4
that is necessary is	4
should not be glued	4
sharp edge of a	4
of the lathe and	4
into the sides and	4
the lower edges of	4
edge of the work	4
made on the same	4
the boards together with	4
did not want to	4
open end of the	4
across each end of	4
over illustrations and index	4
the north of europe	4
shown in the frontispiece	4
the pattern for the	4
which we give a	4
up to the top	4
at one end to	4
at the ends and	4
receive the end of	4
the ends of pieces	4
the finishing of the	4
the knife or chisel	4
holds its shape well	4
a variation of the	4
together to form a	4
end of the cylinder	4
of the top of	4
a new style of	4
upper piece of the	4
off the superfluous wood	4
and fasten them in	4
when the tool is	4
bring it forward and	4
we give a woodcut	4
the manual arts press	4
for the display of	4
end of the shelf	4
be seen that the	4
were used for the	4
can simply be nailed	4
be made of the	4
care must be used	4
the first and second	4
the middle of a	4
proper handling of tools	4
be a simple matter	4
if you cannot afford	4
tongued and grooved mitre	4
towards the end of	4
deeply into the wood	4
the pad from sticking	4
of two pieces of	4
is used as a	4
would have to be	4
inch thick and inch	4
directly upon the ground	4
of the same shape	4
which you can do	4
hole was drilled into	4
cut away the wood	4
described and illustrated in	4
it on the wood	4
so as to show	4
which will hold the	4
in which they were	4
as it will not	4
shore of kite island	4
is what is known	4
face of the door	4
of the wood with	4
feet above the level	4
is better to buy	4
of the drawer sides	4
one half of the	4
is a variation of	4
in your first attempts	4
the banks of the	4
of the wood must	4
way to make a	4
see spokeshave and file	4
it to make it	4
be taken to keep	4
enough to cover the	4
will do for the	4
into a piece of	4
is no need of	4
a piece of cord	4
the ends so that	4
the grain in the	4
of which there are	4
equipment and care of	4
the angle should be	4
a notch was cut	4
the heel of the	4
it will be better	4
half the width of	4
in the right positions	4
a similar manner to	4
so that the bottom	4
the whole should be	4
barrel stave snow shoe	4
inches wide and inch	4
in the trade as	4
of the board will	4
the method of construction	4
made in the form	4
to be put on	4
right angles to each	4
about feet from the	4
way is to use	4
can often be used	4
but it is usually	4
inch in diameter and	4
the method of tenoning	4
is often the case	4
end view of a	4
piece of board on	4
which is likely to	4
the construction is obvious	4
of which we give	4
to the left of	4
as it should be	4
be placed between the	4
holes bored in the	4
the number of revolutions	4
pieces to be joined	4
and chisel out the	4
a hole bored in	4
will be likely to	4
same manner as in	4
tapered down to a	4
and screwed in place	4
you will often have	4
with the back of	4
thickness of the wood	4
to break up the	4
ends of the sticks	4
you can easily do	4
the bottom is nailed	4
of moulding can be	4
some sort should be	4
in case of necessity	4
the pieces of wood	4
should never be used	4
rest of the boys	4
head of the nail	4
irregularities of the surface	4
should be about in	4
of some sort should	4
such as is illustrated	4
close up to the	4
well into the wood	4
of the tool is	4
you may be able	4
before putting on the	4
of which have been	4
be used to advantage	4
be varied according to	4
the chisel should be	4
in the vise with	4
water can be used	4
at a more acute	4
a notch in the	4
cutting across the grain	4
work to do with	4
the groove of the	4
end of the shaft	4
with which to buy	4
to a great extent	4
from a manuscript of	4
to do the work	4
to fit the holes	4
see to it that	4
as shown at e	4
where there is no	4
can be arranged as	4
a great amount of	4
ends of the sides	4
by cutting out a	4
but the latter is	4
at top and bottom	4
and care of the	4
that they should be	4
put together in the	4
you will require a	4
of the wood will	4
be content with a	4
notches cut in the	4
it can readily be	4
a distance equal to	4
at this point to	4
had been set in	4
from place to place	4
the left end of	4
this can be made	4
in the front of	4
shown in the top	4
should be screwed to	4
the cut is made	4
figure shows a scheme	4
be taken to make	4
on the wood with	4
pointed bar or stick	4
to do with a	4
of the articles already	4
a high degree of	4
of which is a	4
side of the block	4
can be obtained in	4
of one of these	4
inside face of the	4
do not attempt to	4
edges of the work	4
exact center of the	4
about three feet long	4
to mark out the	4
be made of two	4
can be made from	4
little or no expense	4
is applied to the	4
spiral as shown in	4
enough to admit the	4
of our base line	4
the sides into the	4
which rests on the	4
the spiral as shown	4
barrel hoop snow shoe	4
indicates the method of	4
is simple to make	4
to hold the work	4
in line with each	4
the other for the	4
side of the car	4
around the inside of	4
against the ends of	4
a strip of cardboard	4
be made of one	4
is often used for	4
that it does not	4
during the seventeenth century	4
above the top of	4
may be done by	4
be kept in a	4
find the number of	4
you can easily find	4
the inside face of	4
the process of construction	4
line of the medullary	4
where two pieces of	4
ends as shown in	4
one edge of the	4
to the desired shape	4
from the face side	4
the other to the	4
edges of the side	4
it is held in	4
can do the work	4
the same position as	4
attached to the lower	4
of the hinge is	4
the head and the	4
as well as of	4
parallel to the axis	4
so as to avoid	4
along the bottom of	4
on the inside and	4
down to the line	4
house is to be	4
the points of intersection	4
the work is finished	4
described in this chapter	4
the back end of	4
the direction in which	4
the upper portion of	4
the section of the	4
from those in the	4
left hand on the	4
the one just described	4
between the logs of	4
cut on the under	4
front of the cutting	4
for the bottom of	4
paper shown in fig	4
you can easily get	4
when they have been	4
with the side of	4
of the gauge line	4
on the ground of	4
to lay out the	4
the exact center of	4
as is illustrated in	4
diameter of the cylinder	4
ridge of the spiral	4
cut a number of	4
can be used on	4
during the reign of	4
edge of the iron	4
thought it would be	4
the nature of the	4
you can readily see	4
the chisel is then	4
about an inch and	4
you may wish to	4
width of the mortise	4
holes should be bored	4
the parts of a	4
be cut as shown	4
the work should be	4
it will be much	4
to exactly the same	4
at the point of	4
will be liable to	4
of the required size	4
the bottom can be	4
spoil the appearance of	4
the work in the	4
as a substitute for	4
the juncture of the	4
cut in the side	4
if the hole is	4
a good thing to	4
to hide the joint	4
ounce tack is long	4
the tendency is to	4
in places where they	4
differ from those in	4
more workmanlike way is	4
off to the island	4
point of the nail	4
how to use the	4
only on the forward	4
a more acute angle	4
a height of feet	4
so there will be	4
the author of the	4
the two parts of	4
it is an easy	4
of the british museum	4
and then to the	4
it is made of	4
use of the tools	4
is not worth while	4
is a sort of	4
to the lower end	4
so that the upper	4
not be less than	4
mitred at the corners	4
to do your work	4
way to do this	4
of the wood in	4
as in our own	4
in nearly all cases	4
as used in the	4
of the bench and	4
then on the other	4
the ends can be	4
in order to keep	4
to fire the cannon	4
drawing of the completed	4
sandpapered with fine sandpaper	4
either end of the	4
it may then be	4
it is of a	4
place it on the	4
such a manner that	4
of the wood to	4
the second and third	4
way is to have	4
piece of the platform	4
run up and down	4
in the matter of	4
this is not a	4
them to the ends	4
it can be obtained	4
in regard to the	4
the work is done	4
feet apart at the	4
which you can readily	4
together in the form	4
meeting of the society	4
to get the best	4
a piece of two	4
does away with the	4
not at all necessary	4
in two or three	4
and repeat the process	4
a house of this	4
plenty of time to	4
of the boat and	4
the cases already described	4
the making of a	4
is taken from the	4
such work as you	4
four inches long and	4
this is a very	4
to fit tight on	4
it is possible to	4
in the right position	4
inside of the line	4
it is made out	4
in various parts of	4
can be of stock	4
and to the sides	4
pieces are to be	4
of the board is	4
methods of fastening stock	4
that it is not	4
of the grain of	4
cleat within easy reach	4
in the sides of	4
taken to see that	4
from the fact that	4
side of the boat	4
in similar positions to	4
contact with the revolving	4
can be used with	4
four by five inches	4
of this type is	4
have some sort of	4
with tongued and grooved	4
nails can be used	4
bore a series of	4
was completed by nailing	4
a cleat within easy	4
side of the work	4
edge of the frame	4
is by means of	4
an inch or so	4
back of the bench	4
running up and down	4
inches from the bottom	4
the strength of the	4
for a small boat	4
to know how to	4
be taken to see	4
uprights a and b	4
of the roof and	4
the oar and broom	4
about as shown in	4
be put together in	4
cases where it is	4
in proportion to the	4
the edges of two	4
pressed against the edge	4
the roof can be	4
made by cutting a	4
the elasticity of the	4
treated in a similar	4
in the accompanying woodcut	4
size is indicated by	4
and the upper ends	4
made up of a	4
or more pieces of	4
looping the hoop on	4
of such a length	4
is marked on the	4
of one member is	4
you wish to do	4
used in similar positions	4
until the diagonals are	4
is worked on the	4
nailed or screwed to	4
to a certain extent	4
from the outside of	4
is put in place	4
been set in place	4
this will give the	4
diameter of the driven	4
use it for a	4
as it saves the	4
should be purchased for	4
you can make one	4
on the surface and	4
see jointing and gluing	4
than the diameter of	4
ends of the strips	4
the angle at which	4
as those of the	4
if the wood is	4
enough to let the	4
similar to the one	4
the legs of the	4
will know how to	4
the sides and the	4
and then on the	4
thick and inch wide	4
in each end of	4
you can get the	4
be cut on the	4
make sure that the	4
edge of the cutter	4
but with a little	4
be removed from the	4
shown at the left	4
a piece of straight	4
as to make it	4
such as can be	4
of the seventeenth century	4
two or more boards	4
be used for all	4
pieces as shown in	4
it can be held	4
to make a small	4
from which you can	4
angles to each other	4
door and window frames	4
ends of the rails	4
the bulk of the	4
the same width as	4
be made in this	4
from right to left	4
with the other two	4
near the end of	4