DIAtOGVE OF THE BE AVTY OF WOMEN GNOLO F1RENZVOLA OF THE BEAVTY OF WOMEN DIALOGVE BY MESSER AGNOLO FIRENZVOLA FLORENTINE TRANSLATED FROM THE ITALIAN BY CLARA BELL WITH AN INTRODUCTION BY THEODORE CHILD Q. M. JAMES R. OSGOOD, M2ILVAINE and CO., 45 Albemarle Street London. 1892 DIALOGUE BY MES- SER AGNOLO FIREN- ZVOLA FLORENTINE OF THE BEAVTY OF WOMEN Digitized by the Internet Archive in 2015 https://archive.org/details/ofbeautyofwomend00fire_0 INTRODUCTION. IS little volume appeals neither to the erudite alone, nor to the general public, but to all those who love refinement and pursue beauty. It is a book for women and a book for men, inasmuch as it treats of the beauty of women, which is one of the chief est joys of men. The author, Agnolo Firenpuola, was born in 1493 at Florence, where he died about 1946. His life, it appears, was not peculiarly exemplary, although he was a churchman ; his writings, too, are not all a 11 INTRODUCTION. of an edifying nature , any more than those of Boccaccio ; but in the age of Leo X. there was a separation between religion and morality; while , in literature, ex- quisite style and the manifestation op citlture were thought to cover a multitude of sins. Firenpuola was a poet and a literary man of very great talent, and the extreme perfection of his Tuscan style was such that his free translation of the “ Golden Ass ” of Apuleius was eulogized as being the most perfect piece of Italian prose ever written. Firenyuola’s “ Dialogue on the Beauty of Women,” which is here presented for the first time in the English tongue, seems to us worthy of the honours of translation and of perusal for other reasons than those of mere antiquarian curiosity. Our ideal op feminine beauty is doubtless different from that of Botticelli, Perugino, Antonio Bapyi, Bellini, Leonardo or Titian ; and yet, by the ardent and continual contemplation op INTRODUCTION. Ill the masterpieces of these and other painters , we certainly influence our modern ideal in some subtle and unanalysable way. The lipe op great works of art is eternal. In each succeeding age they acquire new eloquence and impart fresh lessons to those who study them. They retain an inex- haustible power of suggestion and bound- less capacity of interpretation. It is in the interpretation of the painting of the Italian Renaissance that the Dialogue of Firenyuola seems to us to be op singular interest, and above all in its suggestive- ness to modern women, and in its implied doctrine that beauty is to be pursued, and, within certain limits, to be attained even by those whom Nature has not lavishly favoured. It is superfluous to ask whether the Italians of the Golden Age of Art had any theoretical plastic ideal. On what subject did not the contemporaries of Pico della Mirandola theorize? What questions did a 2 iv INTRODUCTION. they not discuss in their Platonic or Cicero~ nian dialogues ? What detail of refined life and culture have they not touched upon in their tales, their treatises and their elegant epistles ? How many expositions of ideals of good breeding could we men- tion in the literature of the fifteenth and sixteenth centuries ? As regards the particular point of the beauty of women, we should have no diffi- culty in finding authors who have written about feminine charms in an abstract manner ; but we have preferred Firenpuola because he is not so much a philosopher or a lheori{er, as a man of the wcrrld and a lover of woman. We can imagine that Firen^uola would have willingly approved La Bruy'ere’s saying that a beautiful face is the most beautiful of all spectacles, and that the sweetest harmony is the sound of the loved one’s voice. But at the same time we feel that Firen^uola was wanting in that tender sentiment which the severe INTRODUCTION. V La Bruyere suggests in the latter part op the above sentence. The Florentine was curious perhaps rather than sentimental; his analysis of the beauty of women is strictly cesthetical; his admiration active and impressionist, so to speak, rather than contemplative. Had he lived in our times he would have noted with incomparably delicate touch the familiar gestures which contemporary costume involves, and all the pretty movements that accompany the raising of a veil, the arrangement of the hair im- perceptibly ruffed by the indiscreet breeze, the coquettish effort made in taking off gloves and adjusting rings and bracelets, the furtive application of the powder puff and of the precious unguent that imparts intensity to roseate lips. At the same time he would have paid little attention to the naivete of the eye and the gravity of the heart. The beauty of women which Firen- quola admires and analyses is exterior, plastic and material. Like Theophile Gau- vi INTRODUCTION. tier, he would doubtless dispense readily with intelligence and soul in a woman who possessed beauty, and say with the French- man : “ Pour moi une femme qui est belle a toujour s de V esprit ; elle a l’ esprit d’etre belle, etje ne sais pas lequel vaut celui-la.” After the fashion of the times, Firen- qiiola introduces real people in his dialogue, and his principal interlocutors are half a doqen of Florentine ladies, each having a different type of beauty and special per- fections, the discussion of which helps in determining the ideal of perfect beauty. In conformity with the Socratic method, Firenquola seeks first of all to define beauty ; and, having done so, he explains his programme, which will be to speak principally of such parts of the body as are exposed to view, and then to set forth the signification of certain terms that are used in connection with feminine beauty by the Italian poets and prose-writers, and by the common people too, namely, leggiadria, INTRODUCTION. vii vaghezza, grazia, venusta, aria and maesta. This exposition forms the sub- stance of the first Discourse. In the second Discourse, Firenguola returns to points of detail and speaks minutely about the eyes, the eyebrows, the eyelashes, the ears, the neck and bosom, the shoulders and arms, and the chin. The teeth, the gums, and even the tip of the tongue are discussed in an elegant page devoted to the mouth, which our author requires to be small rather than large, and which he ingeniously qualifies as the foun- tain of all the sweets of love, fontana di tutte le amorose dolcezze. His remarks on the foi'ehead are interesting in con- nection with that fashion of the fifteenth century which demanded foreheads so high that the ladies pulled their hair out by the roots in order to acquire the dome-like expanse of serene brow that strikes us as being so strange in the pictures of Piero della Francesca, for instance, notably in Vlll INTRODUCTION. the portrait of Battista Sforqa, Duchess of Urbino, in the National Gallery at London. Firenquola would have the forehead ample, broad, high, white and calm. The height of the fcrrehead is to be calculated from the beginning of the parting of the hair to the meeting of the eyebrows and nose. “ And many,” adds Firenqtiola, ” wish the height of the forehead to be equivalent to one-third of the face; the other two-thirds being measured from the meeting of the eyebrows to the upper lip, and from the upper lip to the tip of the chin.” The foi'ehead must, furthermore, be twice as broad as it is high, and it must be of a glossy whiteness and “ shining almost like a mirror.” Many of Firenqiiola’s remarks may seem perhaps a little vague and general, but they become less so when we read them in con- nection with the monuments of plastic art contemporaneous with the life of the writer. In the figures of the frescoes of Ghirlan- dafo, of Piero della Francesca, of Antonio INTRODUCTION. IX Ba%(i, and more particularly in the mar- vellous women that we admire in the frescoes and, pictures of the Florentine Botticelli ', we recognise those refinements of hearing and expression of which Firen- yuola speaks ; we divine an ideal of feminine beauty corresponding with his; and we realise the charm of those high and pure foi'eheads “shining almost like a mirror.” Botticelli’s figures of women have the proportions mentioned by Firen- yuola, the forehead occupying one-third of the face, even when the thick, wavy, blond hair, “resplendent, abundant and long,” hangs in clustered locks around the face and is not brushed back or artificially diminished. Some may ask what is the use of un- earthing this frivolous “Dialogue of the Beauty of Women” from the oblivion into which it has fallen ? 7 he erudite, the specialists, the students of the life, the art and the literature of the Renaissance, are X INTRODUCTION. familiar with it. Of what interest can it he to the modern reader ? These objections we have already an- swered in announcing that our intention is not to appeal to the general public, hut only to the lovers of heauty who are justly indifferent to utility. Beauty has nothing in common with utility ; it is an end in itself. Yet we venture to argue against the adversary that Firengiiola’s Dialogue has usefulness in that it may he found suggestive to those who are pursuing heauty, that is to say to all women in whom the instinct of heauty has not been annihilated, and to all men who are susceptible of feeling the joy that heauty procures. The modern woman is neither Eve nor Helen, neither the woman of the fifteenth century nor the woman of the eighteenth, hut the resultant of all anterior women, as their form, their hearing and their physiognomies have been moulded and modified by ages of civilisation and in- INTRODUCTION. XI numerable epochs of fashion. Thanks to mysterious influences , historical, social and artistic, the type of supreme feminine elegance has been resumed at various times in various centres. The focus of fashion since the world began has been successively Babylon, Miletus, Athens, Alexandria, Rome, Constantinople, Florence, Venice and Paris. In these cities have been realised prodigies of refinement and deli- cate invention, which have extended their prestige over the whole earth. In these cities have lived women whose beauty and luxury have charmed their contemporaries ; whose originality of feature, of gesture, and of bearing have been imitated by the elite of the world ; and whose innovations in vesture and ornament have gradually transformed the aspect of feminine hu- manity. In these cities have lived the great princesses who have held the sceptre and controlled the destinies of fashion. It is easy to say that all is vanity. xii INTRODUCTION. Doubtless , the doctrine of Ecclesiastes is irrefutable ; but human life is at an end the moment that man has been convinced of the nothingness of everything. The Chris- tianity of the early centuries of our era, too exclusively moral, too absolutely ascetic, too disdainful of beauty, was quite incom- patible with luxury and worldly life. And yet, in the eyes of a complete philosophy, beauty, far from being a temptation of Satan, a superficial advantage and a danger, may be looked upon as a gift of God, just as virtue itself. As the great modern artist in ideas, Ernest Renan, has proclaimed in his book on Marcus Aurelius, beauty is as good as virtue ; the beautiful woman expresses one phase of the divine end quite as much as the man of genius or the virtuous woman who may not be gifted with beauty. “ The beautiful woman,” says the philosopher, “ feels her beauty, and hence her pi'ide. She feels instinctively the infinite treasure that she INTRODUCTION. xiii has in her body ; she knows that without intelligence , without talent , without great virtue , she still counts amongst the first manifestations of God. And why prohibit her from taking advantage of the gift that has been made to her, of setting appro- priately the precious diamond that has fallen to her lot ? A woman in adorning herself accomplishes a duty ; she practises an art, an exquisite and, in a sense, the most charming of the arts. The palm of genius is conceded to the Greek artist who resolved the most delicate of pi'oblems, that of adorning the human body, that is to say of adorning perfection itself ; and yet, people would have us believe that the attempt to co-operate in the finest work of Nature, namely the beauty of woman, is merely a matter of patchwork, une affaire de chiffons. Woman’s dress, with all its refinements, is great art in its way. The ages and countries which excel in this art are the greatest ages and the greatest XIV INTRODUCTION. countries.” Let us then respect Tertullian and Hernias and the good ascetic fathers of the Church; but let us congratulate ourselves at the same time upon the successful revolt of the worldlings , and upon the eloquence of the siren voices that have rehabilitated the exquisite things which Clement of Alexandria declared to be dangerous and even positively sinful. So then we return to the question of modern woman and her beauty. The modern woman is clothed; it is thus that we love her and prefer her to all the divine Artemises of old who wore no clothes. IVith the delicate poet Ephraim Mikhael we proclaim our faith : f aime les yeux rieurs et les voiletles fines , Les contours estompes par la poudre de riz. fiaime Pambre et le muse plus que Pantique myrrhe ; Pour mot la nudite des nymphes ne vaut pas Une robe moulant un beau corps ; et j’ admire Les chers souliers nerveux qui font de petits pas. INTRODUCTION. XV The modern woman seeks consciously or unconsciously to realise an ideal which is the result of centuries of civilisation that have transfigured her mind, and of centuries of corset-wearing that have transformed her body into something very different from the torso of the Venus of Milo — an ideal which has been evolved from innumerable material, moral and social phenomena, nourished by the foster- ing thoughts and evocative images of countless poets, idealised by the brushes of many painters, and materialised by the genius of a few dress-makers and milliners of extraordinary creative talent. Firen- Suola’s Dialogue is of interest inasmuch as it records the progress achieved during one very important stage in the evolution of modern feminine elegance; it is useful inasmuch as it calls attention to details of beauty and encourages the conscious pursuit and acquirement of beauty. The gown, the coiffure and above all xvi INTRODUCTION. things the will of the wearer, contribute greatly to enhancing the beauty of woman, and even to creating beauty when Nature forgets to furnish that precious gift. For, after all, the truly beautiful women are rare, and yet for the pleasure of our eyes they appear to be legion. What is the explanation op this phenomenon? Is it not because women by force of will and by the constant action of creative genius are able to transform their bodies and make themselves beautiful? The body and the soul that a woman receives at her birth are, so to speak, simple materials which she utilises well or ill. By the obstinate desire of beauty she may render her body beautiful, while by persistent neglect she may leave it shapeless, undeveloped, un- conscious. As for her soul, she may train and perfect it by a love of order and rhythm which produces grace of all kinds, and even virtue. In the matter of physical beauty, as in that of moral beauty, there is INTRODUCTION. XVli truly much profit in example and con- tinuous effort. Firenpuola’s ingenious analyses, particularly if they are supple- mented by the attentive and sympathetic examination of the masterpieces op painting of the Florentine and also of the early Venetian schools, will, we imagine, not fail to leave in the fair reader’s mind some active or latent germ of elegance, some hints for gesture or expression, some suggestions that will be efficacious in the future composition of her material per- sonality, or, in other words, her outward beauty, the outward beauty that pleases the eye, the beauty of which Michael Angelo speaks, il bel del fuor che agli occhi p'iace. THEODORE CHILD . b BIBLIOGRAPHIC NOTE. GNOLO FIRENZUOLA’S DIALOGO DELLE BELLEZZE delle donne was published for the first time, without name of place or printer, in 1548, in 1 vol. 8vo. It was reprinted in the first complete edition of the prose di m. agnolo firen- zuola fiorentino by Bern, di Giunta, 1 vol. 8vo, Florence, 1 548 ; in the second complete edition of the prose by Lorenzo Torrentino, 1 vol. 8vo, 1552 ; and in the same year at Venice by Gio. Griffio, / vol. XX BIBLIOGRAPHIC NOTE. i2ino, 1552. The dialogo was again reprinted, together with Lodovico Dolce’s DIALOGO DELLA INSTITUTION DELLE DONNE, in a volume entitled le bellezze, le lodi, GLI AMORI ET I COSTUMI DELLE DONNE, COn lo discacciamento delle lettere di Agnolo Firenzuola, e di Alessandro Piccolomini, si giuntovi i saggi ammaestramenti che appartengono alia honorevole e virtuosa vita virginale, maritale e vedovile, di Lod. Dolce, Venetia, Bar ergo Bareli, 1622, 1 vol. 8vo. The text of the last mentioned edition has been followed in the present trans- lation. A French translation of the dialogo has been published under the title : discours DE LA BEAUTE DES DAMES, pi'inS de 1’Ita- lien du Seigneur Ange Firenzuola, par J. Pallet. Paris, Abel TAngelier, 1 vol. 8 vo, 1578. FIRENZUOLA, FLORENTINE. To the high-bom and fair Ladies of Prato, Greeting. AVING been many times bidden by persons who at all times have a right to command me, to set forth in print a little dialogue of mine, which was written in times past by the desire of one most dear to me, treating of the perfection of beauty in a woman, I believe. I shall be without great difficulty excused though I have proved stubborn or tardy 2 OF THE BEAUTY OF WOMEN. in obeying them ; inasmuch as many of those who required this of me know full well how blameworthy, nay, how evil a thing it is not to lock up new writings, and, as it were, keep our maidens in the inner chambers, at least till such time as that, being allowed to come forth, they may, like true eaglets, endure the light of the sun ; and till the natural affection shall have waned which every man must feel towards that which is his own, and he know them only as aliens, seeing and regarding their shortcomings not as a pitying father but as a severe censor. 1 was, moreover, diverted from such a purpose by having heard that certain over-subtle wits among you — so subtle that they turn to smoke — would en- deavour to interpret the names which 1 have studiously concealed, and in this one or that discern a lady ; and would say : Know you not that this man says you paint your face, and hath called you OF THE BEAUTY OF WOMEN. 3 Madonna Ciona or Madonna Bettola? And one even was not ashamed to say that this was meant for one of the fair damsels of Prato, modest and virtuous as she is, nay, a most precious Mar- guerite — she, let us say, who is attired in black satin — thus departing as far from the truth as they draw near to a swift judgment for their iniquities. My intent, fair maids of Prato, was not to point out this one or that one ; but whereas, to my mind, the nature and adornment of a Dialogue demand such flowers of speech as shall set the matter before the reader by examples, as is customary in daily discourse, I have feigned names, now of this one and now of that one, as the matter of the treatise required, without thinking any more of Madonna Pasquina than of Ma- donna Salvestra. Thus, my fair ladies, when such malignants, being your enemies as much as mine, say that I b 2 4 OF THE BEAUTY OF WOMEN. have spoken ill of you, answer them boldly with what I am wont to say every day : That he who in deed, word or thought, is apt to offend in the least, the least of women, is not a man, but rather an animal without reason, that is a brute. And when such an one speaketh evil now of this one and now of that, answer him, if not in the words at least to the effect that he doeth not the act of a true man ; since one who shall speak evil in the absence of another, in whose face he would smile if he were present, is him- self a deceiver. And say no more ; for this reply, being true, will pierce him through. And when they say: This is this one, this other is that one, 1 tell you again that they depart from the truth, and that these names and cognomina are chosen by chance, especially of those who are taken for examples of ugliness. True indeed, some of those which are examples of beauty, together with the four ladies who discourse with Celso, OF THE BEAUTY OF WOMEN. 5 dwell in my imagination, and I know them in my thoughts ; and in their teigned names he who shall unfold them carefully will find the true names under a thin disguise. And this was one of the chief reasons wherefor I was fain to let these writings grow old in dust ; all the more since, besides these, there were some who re- ported that certain ladies were wrath that I should speak of them at all, whether well or ill. Certain others grieved that I should have held them of such small account that I had not given them a place among the four, deeming that they deserved it ; as in truth they did, if merit could be ascribed to them in these my poor unprofitable papers, more fit to be cast out than to do honour to their bright fame. And to these — since I am compelled to put forth this little book — answering a few words in self- defence, I would say that the former are in the wrong, inasmuch as that my style 6 OF THE BEAUTY OF WOMEN. is lowly, its eloquence small, its powers of wit feeble, its elegance none ; yet they should accept my goodwill, albeit my work is not altogether such as cer- tain great and illustrious signors and ingenious gentlewomen of this our land of Italy would fain have read and esteemed, and have held the writer dear. But this 1 may and will boast: That the judicious ear of Clement the Seventh (to whose due praises no skilled pen may ever attain) remained open for many hours in the presence of the most illustrious wits of Italy, listening with great attention to the sound of his own voice while he read the dissertation entitled Discacciamento ' and the first part of the Discourses I had dedicated to the illustrious Lady Catherina Cibo, the noble Duchess of Camerino — and not without marks of satisfaction, and praise of me. 1 “ Discacciamento delle nuove lettere inutil- mente aggiunte ne la lingua Toscana.” Roma, 1524. OF THE BEAUTY OF WOMEN. ; And even if this were not true — * and it is most true — I might call to witness the great Bishop Giovio. Doth not Marcus Tullius , 2 who was as the right eye of the Latin tongue, write to L. Lucceius these express words: “l burn with an indescribable desire to be made famous by your writings ” ? If, then, the prince of Latin writers held it so dear that he burned with desire to be celebrated by one so inferior to himself, entreating him with such vehemence to write concerning him, why should you scorn to be named by me, and written of in this my little dialogue ? If I indeed am not Lucceius — and peradventure I am — you are not Helen nor Venus. And this I say, not of all, but only of some who, unless they have turned deaf within a few days, will hear me, I know. Yet .it may well be that one or another thus excuseth herself out of good-breed- ing, or, I would say, humility ; that is 2 Cicero, Ad. Att. iv. ep. vi. 8 OF THE BEAUTY OF WOMEN. as not seeing anything in herself which should render her worthy of this honour; and these, if there be such, I gladly for- give many things, nay, and I hold them excused ; and I address myself to those others who show that they hold this my hapless book in such high esteem that they threaten me with unremitting hatred because I have not put them into it. To these 1 say, as my most true and just excuse, that the fear 1 was in of the former hindered me from writing of these latter, doubting whether they would owe me a grudge for it, like those others. Nevertheless 1 thank all who show so great an esteem for my writings ; and whether they hate me, or hate me not, I am equally their debtor, and some day may haply prove it to them in a more particular way. And another thing hath been whispered in my ear, which is no light matter. That is, that she who is the lady and OF THE BEAUTY OF WOMEN. 9 mistress of my heart, born to be the mainstay of my age, and chosen to be the repose of my labours, complains that she is not to be found therein. In the first place this is no small error, inasmuch as I know not that any lady knoweth herself to be she for whom I pine ; since 1 have not hitherto had the opportunity to tell her so, nor have I known how to act so that she should discover it from signs. Yet, if any one, without my consent, hath told her this from me, let him take this further message, with my consent : That she look very diligently, and she will find herself herein, for that she is one of the four, and by seeking she will find herself. And if, after all, she deem that she is not there, or not as she would have herself, and does not know herself by countersigns, — which indeed I have concealed as best I might, to give no handle to the vulgar — bid her search 10 OF THE BEAUTY OF WOMEN. my heart from side to side, and if she find herself not there she may speak ill of me. And let that suffice her, that she be not bitter against me ; but for the love of God bid her tell no one or she will be my ruin. Moreover there are certain hypocrites — the daughter of Madonna Biursa of the Image is one of them — who say that because I am ill-favoured, my other half must need be uncomely and clumsy as lam. To this 1 must make some reply, not to be altogether cast away. Fair ladies, when I was born I was not so old as I am now, nor was I so bearded nor so ill-favoured as now ; but the fairies spoiled me on the way, and whereas 1 have wandered much, and have been much in the sun, I have been burned and seem to be black. Yet, under my doublet I am not so black as I am above, especially on a Sunday morning when I have changed OF THE BEAUTY OF WOMEN. I l my shirt. And, as my mother hath told me, my nurse pulled my nose a little too long. But when my mistress and 1 parted we were both equally handsome, only I have been some- what marred since by lack of ease, and she hath preserved herself by much ease. And there are some who say that by writing this book I shall have lost more than I can gain, for that excepting those four (or rather three, since one of them owes me a grudge for bringing her there, and has bid me to know that she neither blesses nor thanks me), all the rest have banned me with bell, book and candle. But what odds can that make? If I die by their hands I shall not die by the hands of the Turks or the Moors ; and I shall die happy since I have given them no just cause, and truly do not so now. And at all times, whether they regard or remember 12 OF THE BEAUTY OF WOMEN. me with kindness or disfavour, yet shall I ever love all worthy ladies. Again, 1 have heard one say, who thought herself wise, nay, and is so, that 1 myself am Celso, and that for lack of good neighbours I must be praising myself. But to her, and to any others who say as much and who smile at my doings : If they had read more and knew what method there must be in the making of a dialogue, they would not have said so witless a thing ; yet, even if it were so, and if 1 had been minded to appear myself in the person of Celso, what praise have 1 bestowed on myself? 1 have said that he was a man of good letters ; and it is plain that if I had not studied and had thereby gotten some scholarship, I could but ill have wrought out this dialogue to that perfection which is now to be found in it ; and as to whether I have or have not skill in letters, henceforth OF THE BEAUTY OF WOMEN. 1} I desire no other witness than this little work. If I were not courteous, and had not yielded to the bidding of friends, I should not now be in this labyrinth. If I feign that he has set his heart high, and lives with purity and holiness, on the foundations of virtue (and in this, indeed, I confess I desired to depict myself), I have written the truth, and I ask no other testimony than the innocency and purity of my conscience, and to all who know any sin in me 1 give full license to declare it and prove me a liar. But now behold whence these have it : There be some who say that at my age, and in my profession, 3 a man is not expected to write such works, but of grave and severe matters ; and to them 3 Firenzuola was born in 1493. The first edition of the Dialogo was published in 1548, when the author, who had been a lawyer, had entered the monastery of Vallombrosa. 14 OF THE BEAUTY OF WOMEN. I will only reply that 1 have ever held all doleful hypocrites and malignant and ignorant persons of small account, and that they who say such things are of that breed and I regard them not at all. Nay, I grieve that so worthy a man as Boccaccio should have vouchsafed to answer them ; it was showing too great concern for them. There is another point which must be considered, and that is : Whatever I may have written 1 have not been wont to take any great care, nor do 1 now, as to the minute observance of the rules of the Tuscan tongue, but have sought to copy the manner of everyday use, not that of Petrarca and Boccaccio ; but bearing in mind a saying of Favorino, I have ever used those words and modes of speech which change from day to day, the coin, as Horatius hath it, which is now current, and not worn money, nor any scarce coinage. OF THE BEAUTY OF WOMEN. I 5 One thing is certain : Many of those who profess composition will sound the alarm over sundry things which do not accord with their style ; but in their despite, that which 1 have done I did because it seemed right in my eyes; and if I deserve reproof, reprove me ; 1 will be patient. If they desire to put me to shame, behold I turn red ; nevertheless, that I may not seem so shamefaced a wight, as soon as 1 shall have put forth a translation of the Ars Poeticus of Hora- tius, somewhat paraphrased (which will be in this next summer), I will briefly reply to their corrections. Meanwhile have me in your protection, both as to this Dialogue and as to that little book wherein the foxes and crows are made to speak, 4 sent forth by me not long since, as you know, to be judged of my friends. Behold now in what a labyrinth I am, 4 Discorsi degli animali. 1 6 OF THE BEAUTY OF WOMEN. in what a dilemma I find myself, from having hearkened to the arguments of others. And nevertheless I have so much spirit and so great strength, that I shall overcome all these difficulties, like another Hercules all those monsters; and the courteous entreaties of those I love work in me more powerfully than all the unreasonable objections which evil tongues may raise. Therefore I have written it all out once more and determined to give it forth, having already shown it to my friends and my enemies, to whom I will recall the ancient saw which saith that a dead lion may not be shorn of his beard. Written in Prato on the i8tb day of January, 1541, in the reign of the Most Illustrious and Excellent Cosmo, Duke of Florence. rono .<*A«cvfe» DIALOGUE BY FIRENZUOLA, FLORENTINE, ON THE BEAUTY OF WOMEN, ENTITLED CELSO. 3First Discourse, SELVAGGIO is a great nd of mine, and so much my service that I make d to say he is in truth as my second self. Hence, when I now set forth these his discourses, albeit indeed he hath forbidden it, he will have patience with me, inasmuch as that the love he bears me constrains him to make my will his own, and all the more, since that which c 1 8 OF THE BEAUTY OF WOMEN. constraineth him constraineth me. Now he, besides being a man skilled in learn- ing, is of no small judgment, and great courtesy, and highly accommodating to the desires of his friends ; and for all these reasons, being assured that he will make no difficulties, 1 have set them forth, as you see. He found himself last summer in the garden of the Abbey of Grignano, kept at that time by Vanozzo de’ Rochi, whither several youths and maidens had betaken themselves for air, ladies distin- guished no less for their beauty and high degree than for their many virtues — among them Madonna Lampiada, Ma- donna Amororrisca, Selvaggia and Ver- despina. They had withdrawn to the summit of a hillock in the midst of that garden, overgrown with cypress and laurel, where they tarried, disputing of Madonna Amelia della Torrenuova, who likewise was in the pleasaunce ; and this OF THE BEAUTY OF WOMEN. 1 9 one would have it that she was of the greatest beauty, and that other that she was not even well-favoured, when Celso came up the mount with certain other youths of Prato, the kindred of these ladies. And they being thus taken by surprise, were silent on a sudden. Then Celso, making excuse for having done them such discourtesy, the ladies graciously replied that their coming hither was most pleasing to them, and they bid these gentlemen be seated on a bank over against them ; yet were they again silent. Whereupon Celso spoke, saying: “Fair ladies, either proceed in your discourse, or dismiss us from your company, to the end that we may not disturb your sport, but hit the ball as it bounds.” Then said Madonna Lampiada : “ Mes- ser Celso, our discourse was of women, wherefor it did not appear to us to be seemly to continue it in your presence, c 2 20 OF THE BEAUTY OF WOMEN. This one said that Amelia is not comely ; I say that she is ; thus were we disputing after the manner of ladies.” To whom Celso replied: “Madonna Selvaggia is in error, but indeed she loves her not. In truth that lady must ever be accounted fair by all, nay, and most beautiful ; and if she is not to be deemed beautiful, I cannot see one in Prato who may be called fair.” On this Selvaggia, somewhat wrath rather than pleased, replied: “Small judgment is needed in such a matter, since each is of a different mind, and a brown skin is pleasing to one and a white skin to another ; and it is with us women as in a draper’s shop, where cloth from the Romagnuola finds a purchaser no less than satin from Banello.” “ Well and good,” quoth Celso, “ but when we speak of a beautiful woman we mean one whom all alike admire, and not this one or that one only ; thus OF THE BEAUTY OF WOMEN. 21 Nora, so ill-favoured as she is, appears most pleasing in the sight of her Tomaso, albeit she is as uncomely as she possibly can be ; and my gossip, who was passing fair, her husband could not suffer. Peradventure it is that certain complexions suit or suit not ; but a lady fair in all points, like yourself, must necessarily be pleasing to all, as you are ; albeit few are pleasing to you, as I know full well. It is indeed the truth that to be of perfect beauty many things are needed, so that one is rarely found who possesseth the half of them.” Selvaggia then said: “There are some among you men whom the world itself would not satisfy. And I once heard it said that one Momus, unable to find any fault in the beauty of Venus, blamed some trifle in the fashion of her sandals.” Then said Verdespina : “Thus you see how he beheld her.” 22 OF THE BEAUTY OF WOMEN. And Celso, laughing, went on : “ Again Stesichoros, a most noble poet of Sicily, spoke evil of that Helen who, by her exceeding great beauty, moved a thou- sand Greek ships to go forth against the great kingdom of Troy.” Then said Madonna Lampiada in haste : “ Aye, truly, but you know that he thereupon lost his sight, and had it not again till he denied his words.” “And so had his desert,” added Celso, “inasmuch as that beauty and fair women, and fair women and beauty, ought to be lauded and held precious by all ; seeing that a fair woman is the fairest object that may be seen, and beauty the highest gift bestowed by God on mankind ; since its virtue is to invite the soul to contemplation, and through contemplation to the desire of heavenly things. Hence it hath been given us as a foretaste and as an OF THE BEAUTY OF WOMEN. 23 earnest ; and it is of such power and worth that it hath been accounted by sages as the first and most excellent of all things to be loved ; nay, they have called it the very seat, the nest, the abode of love : of love, I say, which is the source and fount of all human joys. For it we see a man forget himself ; and on beholding a face graced with this celestial gift, his limbs will quake, his hair stand on end, and he will sweat and shiver at the same time ; just as one who, seeing on a sudden some heavenly vision, is possessed by the divine frenzy ; and when he is come to himself worships it in his thoughts and bows down to it in his heart, and acknowledging it as it were a god, gives himself up as a victim and a sacrifice on the altar of that fair lady’s heart.” Whereupon said Madonna Lampiada : “Ah, Messer Celso, if it shall not weary 24 OF THE BEAUTY OF WOMEN. you, do us a pleasure ; tell us somewhat of this beauty, and what should be the form of such a fair woman ; whereas these damsels have for some time urged me to entreat this of you and 1 have delayed to do it. But since you, of your own motion, have begun to dis- course of it, having increased my desire, you likewise have raised my courage ; all the more since it has been told me that during the evening assembly held by my sister last Carnival season, you spoke of the matter with those ladies at such length that Madonna Agnoletta could talk of nothing else for many days. So we pray you do us this favour, for we have nought else to be busy about ; and in this light wind the heat of the day will be more delight- fully spent by us than by those below who are sporting or walking in the pleasaunce.” Then answered Celso: “Aye! To OF THE BEAUTY OF WOMEN. 2 5 the end that Selvaggia, if she hear aught said which is not to her mind, or if I omit aught, may cry out that I am speaking ill of women ; in which 1 never take so great pleasure as 1 do in praising them, as she has often known by experience, and yet hath never thanked me for it. But, God wot! the smoke shall one day change her white flesh.” Then said Madonna Lampiada : “Fear not ; she will say nothing. Do us, we entreat you, this favour.” Thus, finding them so set upon it, not to be wanting to his gentle nature, he spoke after the manner which by reading you shall understand. For not many days since I made him repeat to me all that had been said, and set it down in writing as best I knew or could ; albeit you may well believe that many things are lacking of what was spoken, no less by the ladies than 2 6 OF THE BEAUTY OF WOMEN. by him, who, after some little excuse, began thus : Celso. 1 was never entreated by any lady to do that which in all honour 1 might do, and denied her ; nor shall 1 begin now. Let us then discourse boldly of beauty with these four most fair ladies. And the first thing we must consider is wherein this beauty in general consists. The second shall be the perfection, or use, or purpose of each member in particular ; that is to say of such as are to be seen. Inas- much as Nature (as Marcus Tullius saith) provides with mysterious skill that those parts by whose virtue beauty is best displayed are in an honourable promi- nence, to the end that they may be the better seen by all, she likewise, by tacit persuasion, leads both men and women to wear the upper parts un- covered and the lower parts clothed, so that the former, being the proper OF THE BEAUTY OF WOMEN. 27 seat of beauty, are to be seen, which is not necessary for the others, since they are but a pedestal or a base for the upper portions. M. Amororrisca. Then those preachers do well who reprove such as cover their face with a mask, since, as you say, that is the seat of beauty ? Celso. Yes, if they reproved only those who are fair to look upon, and who would in truth sin greatly in hiding so much beauty ; but whereas they no less reprove the ill-favoured, who would do well at all times to wear masks, meseemeth that they do not altogether well. And you may discern for yourselves how greatly displeasing the ill-favoured are, when Signor Alberto de’ Bardi da Vernia, a man whose excellent judgment we all know, says that if at a high festival, he sees Madonna Cione, who goes to them all in her black satin, the joy he has in all 28 OF THE BEAUTY OF WOMEN. the other fair ones doth not make up to him for his displeasure at that one ill- favoured dame. M. Amororrisca. Then neither the feet, nor the arms, nor the limbs which we are wont to cover with clothing, harbour beauty, as your discourse would seem to say. And yet we say Mona Bartolomea hath a fine leg, Appollonia a fine foot, Gemmetta a fine hip. Celso. Nay, more ; Plato denies that beauty can reside in a single member, and saith that it requires the union of many, as we shall presently learn ; yet, when we say of any single member that it is beautiful, by that we mean that it is of good proportions and proper in itself and to its purpose ; thus, of a finger : it should be shapely and white ; and the finger that is thus we call a beautiful finger, if not of that universal beauty which philosophers insist on, yet of a proper and individual beauty. OF THE BEAUTY OF WOMEN. 29 Nevertheless, as to the disposition of that beauty which, with its divine semblance, ravishes the sense of sight to contemplate it, and through the eyes constrains the mind to desire it ; which, beginning at the bosom, ends in the perfections of the face — the lower mem- bers have no part in it ; yet they have some part in the shapeliness or beauty of the whole body. But when clad and covered as much as when naked ; nay, more so, inasmuch as by being fitly clothed they gain the greater grace. Therefore we will discourse chiefly of those parts which are seen, and of those which are covered only as in the second place ; and then we will consider what comeliness is, and what we mean by charm, what we understand by grace, and what by elegance, and what it is to have, or not to have, an air ; what is meant by that v/hich the common call majesty in you ladies, albeit not 30 OF THE BEAUTY OF WOMEN. in the true sense of the word. And as Homer first said, and after him the Carthaginian to Hannibal : The Gods have not given all things to all men, but to one wit and to another beauty ; strength to many and grace to few, and virtue to scarcely any ; so we will take you four ladies, and imitate Zeuxis, who, when he was to paint Helen for the citizens of Crotona, chose five of their fairest maidens, and copying from each her chief beauty composed his Helen, who thus was so perfectly beautiful that nothing else was talked of throughout Greece. By this example likewise (or perhaps by that of Lucian, who also composed his beauty from many beauties, which he borrowed from the admirable statues of the most famous sculptors who had lived before his day) Messer Gio. Giorgio Trissino learned his method of portraiture ; and we in like manner will try if we may not, from OF THE BEAUTY OF WOMEN. 3 I these four fair ones, compose one who shall be perfect. So now let us proceed to a definition of beauty and to its true and principal signs. Cicero, in the Tusculan Disputations, tells us that beauty lies in the seemly shape of the several members, with a certain softness of colouring. Others, and among them Aristotle, have said that it dwells in a certain fit proportion, arising from the adjustment of the various parts to each other. Ficino, the Platonist, On Feasting, in his second oration, saith that beauty is a certain grace, which has its origin in the ordering of the various members ; and he says ordering, by reason that this word im- plies a certain sweet regularity, full of comeliness, as it might be a subtle conjunction. Dante, in his Cole^ione (which, in comparison with Plato’s Banquet, needs a draught of good wine), tells us that }2 OF THE BEAUTY OF WOMEN. beauty is a harmony. We, not in any hope of doing better than these, but because in speaking to ladies it is well to make matters plain ; and not so much to define beauty, as rather to explain our- selves, will say that it is nothing less than a well-ordered concord, and so to speak, a harmony, which is the occult result of the composition, union, and commixture of many diverse parts ; differing in themselves, and well pro- portioned according to their proper nature and need, and in a certain sense beautiful ; yet, before their union in one person, dissimilar and discrepant. And 1 say a concord, a harmony, as a figure of speech ; since, in the art of music, a concord of the high and the bass notes with divers others, produces the beauty of vocal harmony, so a stout limb and a slender one, a white feature and a black one, a straight one and a curved one, a small and a large one, when composed OF THE BEAUTY OF WOMEN. }} and united by Nature in incomprehen- sible proportions, produce that pleasing whole, that propriety, that fine tempera- ment which we call beauty. And I say the occult result, inasmuch as we can give no reason why that white chin, those red lips, those black eyes, that round hip, that small foot should create, or produce, or result in beauty; and yet, we see, thus it is. If a woman were hairy, she would be ill-favoured ; if a horse were bare of hair he would be a monster. To a camel a hump is an adornment, to a woman a misfortune. This can only come of an occult ordi- nance of Nature, which, in my judgment, no arrow from the bow of human wit can hit. But the eye, which by Nature herself hath been constituted the judge in this case, esteeming that it is so, compels us to accept its sentence with- out appeal. Again, I say discrepant, inasmuch as that beauty being harmony o 34 OF THE BEAUTY OF WOMEN. (as we have seen) and the union of diverse things — -just as the hand of the player, and the will moving the hand, and the bow, the viol and the strings, are all diverse things — so the face, which differs from the bosom, and the bosom from the throat, and the arms from the legs, being brought together and united in one person by the occult purpose of Nature, result, as it were of necessity, in beauty. That which Cicero saith of colour 1 deem superfluous ; whenever the several parts which combine to produce the beauty herein described shall be beautiful in themselves, well formed and ordered, composed and proportioned to perfection, they will of necessity overcast the body they compose with that sweetness of colouring which is needful for the true perfection of beauty. For, as in a well- tempered body, in w'hich the humours and elements duly mingle, we find health, and health gives a clear and OF THE BEAUTY OF WOMEN. 35 lively colouring and so reveals outwardly its inward presence, so the several per- fect members united in a single person will give it the colouring necessary to the perfect unity and harmonious beauty of the whole. Plutarch writes that Alexander the Great diffused from his limbs a most sweet odour, and he ascribes this to nothing else than the fine, nay perfect tempering of the humours and of his whole complexion. Thus, to return to our matter : it is fitting that the cheeks should be fair ; and such fairness is in things which, beside whiteness, have a certain glow, like ivory ; but whiteness is that which hath no such glow, as snow. And whereas the cheeks to be beautiful must be of this fairness, the bosom must be white ; and whereas, to produce beauty in the whole person each part severally must be beautiful, it is no less needful that each should have its d 2 36 OF THE BEAUTY OF WOMEN. due colour, that which is proper to its particular beauty or essence ; and so having it separately they will likewise have it in their union ; and if they have it they will of necessity diffuse that sweetness of colour which is needed. And this colour must not result from various colours compounded in one and the same part, but be different in dif- ferent parts, according to the diversity and needs of the several members ; here white, as in the hands, there fair and rosy, as in the cheeks ; black in the eyebrows, red in the lips, yellow in the hair. And this, my ladies, is not the definition, but an exposition of the definition of beauty. Madonna Latnpiada. Forgive me, I beseech you, if now and again I break the thread of your discourse by asking questions, inasmuch as I am one of those who, knowing that they are ignorant, would be right glad to learn OF THE BEAUTY OF WOMEN. 57 when the opportunity is offered them. When you speak of beauty in general, do you speak of that of men, or of that of women, or of both alike? Celso. It is a great sign of knowledge to begin to discern that we know not, and to desire to know. Thus Socrates, who was judged a sage by the oracle of Apollo, after all his labours and all his pains, declared that he had learnt only this : to know that he knew nothing. And you say so, not that you truly know nothing, but from your natural modesty; and you inquire, not that I may teach you who know more than I, but for these other ladies, who, being somewhat younger, have less experience than you. I say, therefore, in answer to your ques- tion, that if you had read Aristophanes’ oration, which he spoke at Plato’s banquet, there would be no need that 1 should explain this matter to you ; or if perchance you had read certain fine 38 OF THE BEAUTY OF WOMEN. stanzas by Monsignore Bembo, written in his youth. Nay, I should feel moved to rehearse to you the matter of his verse but that it is long, and I shall therefore keep it till another day. M. Lampiada. I beseech you tell us now, while we have time. Another day it may be lacking. Celso. If you will have it so I can but relate it, yet as briefly as 1 may ; if 1 should tell it you exactly as it is writ- ten we should tarry the whole evening. When Jove created the first men and the first women he gave them twice the number of parts they now have, that is to say, four arms and four legs and two heads ; and hence, having double parts, they had double powers ; and they were of three sexes : some male in both halves, others female, but these were few ; and the rest, who were the greater number, were one half male and the other half female. As it fell these OF THE BEAUTY OF WOMEN, 39 last, not considering the mercies they had received from Jove, took thought together to overthrow him from heaven. And he, being warned of the matter, setting aside all other counsel and not willing to destroy the whole human race lest there should be none to adore him, determined to divide them all severally into two, and so to secure his estate, deeming that by this division he should sever force from boldness. And this he forthwith put into effect, and thus the matter ended, leaving us as you see us to this very day. And Mercury was the sawyer and Esculapius the master to mend us and salve the breast, which was the part that suffered most (albeit yours, Selvaggia, hath healed all too well), and to cure all the other parts which the saw had hurt. And thus, as you see, everyone thenceforth was male or female, save a certain small number who escaped, but who by too 40 OF THE BEAUTY OF WOMEN. much running wasted themselves away and were of no more use. These were named Hermaphrodites, which signifies fugitives from Hernias, that is Mercury. Some, which were, or had descended from, males in both halves, desiring to return to their former state, seek their other half, which is a male, and contem- plate each other’s beauty. Some in all virtue, as Socrates' love for the beautiful Alcibiades, Achilles’ for Patroclus, and Nisus’ for Euryalus ; some in dishonour, as certain vile souls, more unworthy of any name or fame than he who to become famous set fire to the temple of the Ephesian goddess. And all such as these, whether virtuous or vile, flee for the most part from consorting with you ladies, and of such I am sure that at this very day you likewise know of more than one. Those which had been female in both halves, or are descended from such, love each other’s beauty, OF THE BEAUTY OF WOMEN. 4 1 some in purity and holiness, as the fair Laodamia Forteguerra loved the illus- trious Margaret of Austria ; others foully, as Sappho the Lesbian among the an- cients, and, in our own time, the great courtezan Cicilia Vinitiana at Rome. These by nature scorn marriage, and flee from converse with men. And of these we may suppose are they who of their own will become nuns, and of their own will remain so ; and they are few. The third kind, who were both male and female, and the most in number, were those from whom you are descended, who have husbands and hold them dear, like Alcestis, the wife of King Admetus, and others who have not refused to die for the good of their husbands ; and, in short, all of you who are fain to see the face of man in all modesty, as the holy laws allow. So, likewise, such of us men as either have or seek wives, and, finally, all of 4 2 OF THE BEAUTY OF WOMEN. those who have no greater pleasure than to look upon the fair faces of you sweet ladies. These, to be reunited to their other half and rejoice in its beauties, would fear no danger, as Orpheus for his dear Euridice, and Caius Gracchus, the noble Roman, for his beloved Cornelia; and as I would do for that cruel fair one who, not willing to discern that she is my other half and 1 hers, flies from me as though I were some strange creature. Ver despina. 1 may tell you, you suffer this love of yours to be so little under- stood that it is no wonder if she whom you love and call your other half — since other half there is — know not of it, and so show you not such honest favour as a gentle lady should show to so ingenious a gentleman. And, nevertheless, there is no one in Prato but believes that you are in love ; and a few days since 1 heard one enquiring of it with great insistence, and all said that they believed OF THE BEAUTY OF WOMEN. 43 it, but knew not with whom. And when I ponder those words you are sometimes wont to speak: “She who hath me knows it not, and she who knows she hath me, hath me not,” I am confirmed in my first thought that she whom you love knows it not, and she whom you love not believes that you love her. Notwithstanding, you do all so secretly that it is not easy to tell which is she to whom you are feigning, and to which you do true duty. Celso. Gentle Verdespina, can you believe that I am so base of soul and so forgetful of myself as to have locked up my heart safe from all Love's darts ? 1 too am a man, I too seek my other half, I too crave to rejoice in the beauty of her who hath been set before me as a radiant sight for my adventurous eyes and for the consolation of my intellect, but I enjoy it in silence and in my soul ; 44 OF THE BEAUTY OF WOMEN. inasmuch as that the end of my love, which is pure and chaste, having its roots in the well-tilled soil of virtue, is contentment in itself with the sight of that lady, of which it cannot be deprived by any accident ; since, when she is hidden from my bodily eye she is visible to the eye of the spirit. Therefore let my mistress hide herself as she will, 1 behold her ever, 1 ever contemplate her and rejoice in her, and am happy. And when 1 complain of her it is in sport, seeing that in truth I have no cause at all for complaint, not desiring of her aught that I cannot have, much less in her despite ; and perchance we may be united on a day which she who hath me knows, and she who hath me not shall know. And now let us return to the severed men and divided women ; for we have wandered too far from home. 1 say then that there is no need to discourse OF THE BEAUTY OF WOMEN. 45 of the first kind, nor of the second, since they but contemplate the beauty of their own kind, whether divinely and virtuously, or vilely and viciously ; and after the first manner we cannot speak, inasmuch as that our spirit while it is in this prison is little apt for divine things ; and as for the vile and wicked, God forbid that in the company of chaste and virtuous ladies such as you, 1 should speak of such evil folk. Thus we must proceed to discourse of you and of ourselves, that is to say, of men who love women, and of women who love men, but in all honour and purity, being inflamed and illuminated by a virtuous ray, as I have many times said. But methinks that Selvaggia is laughing us to scorn. Selvaggia. 1 do not laugh ; 1 do but look to see to what issue you will come. Celso. 1 desire to come to this : That whereas each one of us craves by 46 OF THE BEAUTY OF WOMEN. natural instinct to meet and be reunited to that other half, and be complete again, it is needful that it should seem beautiful, and seeming beautiful we are constrained to love it, forasmuch as true love, as the school of Plato affirmeth, is nought else than a craving after beauty. So that loving it we are constrained to seek it, and seeking it to find it, — who can hide aught from the eye of a true lover? — and finding it to contemplate it, and contemplating it to joy in it, and rejoicing in it to find incomprehensible delight. Delight is the end of every human act, nay, it is the sovereign good sought for by the philosophers ; and to my judgment, to speak but of earthly things, it is nowhere else to be found. Hence it can seem no strange thing that a gentle lady and a gallant gentleman fired by the rays of Love (the only light which through our eyes openeth the mind, showing us our other half), OF THE BEAUTY OF WOMEN. 47 should move us to every labour and expose us to every peril if we may but find ourself in another, and another in ourself. And to conclude, and keep you waiting no longer, it must be said that it is fitting for a lady to ponder on the beauty of a man, and for a man to contemplate that of a lady. Therefore when we speak of beauty in general we mean both yours and ours. Never- theless, whereas a more delicate and particular beauty dwells in you, is more diffused in you, and more discernible in you, your complexion being much more subtle and tender than ours, and (as many sages truly declare) made by Nature so gentle, so soft, so sweet, so loveable, so desirable, so admirable, and so delightful, to the end that it should be a rest and a refreshment, nay, a harbour and goal, and the end of all human weariness, I shall at this present altogether set aside any discourse of the 48 OF THE BEAUTY OF WOMEN. beauty of men. All my speech and discourse, and all my thoughts turn on the beauty of you ladies, and let those who will blame me. For I dare affirm, not of myself, but of the judgment both of those learned in nature and of certain theologians, that your beauty is an earnest of heavenly things, an image and simulacrum of the joys of Heaven. How should man on earth ever convince his mind that our future bliss, which shall chiefly consist in contemplating for ever the omnipotent essence of God and rejoicing in His divine presence, could be joy for ever without a thought of weariness, were it not that to gaze on the graces of a fair woman, to rejoice in her charm and feast the eyes on her gracious person, are an incomprehen- sible delight, a supreme beatitude, a joy which when it is over we long for again, which makes a man so happy that he forgets himself entirely? And OF THE BEAUTY OF WOMEN. 49 therefore, my dear friends of Prato, if I sometimes gaze somewhat too long at these ladies of yours, take it not amiss. Know you not what Petrarca said to Madonna Laura : “ Were you less fair I should not be so bold.” Do you believe that by contemplating them I shall carry them off? Have no such fear ; I will do them no harm. I do it but that I may learn to enjoy the bliss of Heaven ; inasmuch as that my life is not so evil as that 1 dare not hope to go thither. So, not to go up there and seem like a rustic when first he seeth a town, and not to have then to learn the contemplation of things beautiful, I exercise myself here as best 1 may, by gazing on these fair faces ; and if anyone shall blame me for this, let him know that 1 forgive him, for meseems it is very fine revenge that I cannot be justly blamed ; for he who E 50 OF THE BEAUTY OF WOMEN. hath a foul stomach cannot but betray it in his breath. But see how far my just wrath hath carried me. M. Aimrorrisca. Well, well ; no more of this, Messer Celso ; for albeit an honest wrath is not unseemly in a noble soul, to be too greatly moved by it is neither seemly nor courteous. Celso. My wrath indeed is great, chiefly by reason of one who without any reason was stirred up against me ; but the cause was you, ladies ; since I, being ready to talk of you, to praise you, to defend you against the barking of those fools who, while they speak ill of you, would fain be your accepted lovers, to write in your honour and make myself your advocate, they say the vilest things against me. But, fair ladies, let them say what they will, I still shall gaze on you, love you, speak of you, write of you, serve you, and revere you, and show you, dear ladies, OF THE BEAUTY OF WOMEN. 5 1 that what I have promised you in words I will achieve in deeds. I say that the reasoning here set forth, which showeth that we are the halves of each other, is an irresistible argument to prove that you ladies are not less noble than we men, that you are as wise, as apt for things learned, moral and specula- tive, as ingenious in mechanical acts and knowledge as we ; and that the same powers and essential habits dwell in your minds as in ours ; seeing that when the double whole was equally divided into two equal parts, of necessity one part was as good as the other, and as fair as the other. Hence by this argument and this conclusion 1 will make bold to say to those mine enemies and yours, who in your pre- sence seem to die for you, and behind your back speak evil of you, that you are in all things and at all times our equals ; and albeit it may not appear E 2 S2 OF THE BEAUTY OF WOMEN. universally in every act, yet doth it in regard of those domestic duties which, through modesty, you have taken into your care. And in the same way we see that there is the greatest diversity in the operations of the mind as between the philosopher and the craftsman, the doctor and the merchant. But we are wandering over far from our matter. Yet there is one thing whereof I fain would warn you ; if any man should say to you that this fable of the dividing is but an old wife’s tale, you shall answer him that Plato hath it so, and that it is an apologue spoken by a sage philosopher in a Dialogue of Plato. If they be men of wit this reply shall overthrow them, and if they be ignorant they must be ill-disposed, and you may hold them as of no account, inasmuch as the evil-minded are incapable of wisdom. To say that it is a fable of Plato is to say that it is full of high and OF THE BEAUTY OF WOMEN. 53 divine mysteries, and that it signifieth that which I have declared to you : to wit, that we are one and the same, and of equal perfection ; and that you have to seek us and love us, and that we have to seek you and love you ; our completeness is in you, and yours in us, not to speak of a thousand other beauteous mysteries which at present it profiteth not to declare. Forget not, therefore, to say that it is of Plato ; bind that well in your mind. Now that I have shown so far as in me lieth what is to be deemed beauty in general, it remains to me, according to my promise, to set forth that of the various parts in particular and their perfections, whereby, as hath already been said, God, by His very marvellous ordering, hath insured the preservation of the whole, one member helping the other, one using the virtue of another. And first, meseemeth, 1 should speak of 54 OF THE BEAUTY OF WOMEN. the stature or true form of the whole person, which God created most well ; inasmuch as it was to be the end and crown of His work. And to contem- plate the heavenly harmony He turned and uplifted it towards the sky ; having that superiority over other animals, which, for the convenience of man or to beautify and adorn the universe, were made inclined towards the earth, in such a manner as that they should ever gaze on it as their sole end, and go prostrate and on all fours. Thus He gave man an upright stature that he might lift his eyes to heaven, and ever fix them on those celestial glories which, when this prison-house shall be opened, shall, by God’s grace, be our guerdon, our refuge and our rest after human labours. Albeit, as 1 have said, in the course of this earthly travel man oftentimes recreates, and rests, and refreshes, and comforts himself, fair ladies, by your sweet OF THE BEAUTY OF WOMEN. ^ graces ; as doth the weary pilgrim in his inn until he shall have reached the goal of his desire. The stature or form of a man may be contained in a square, inasmuch as that a man standing with his arms extended cross-wise measures the same from the tip of the middle finger of one hand to the tip of the middle finger of the other, as from the lowest part of the sole of his foot to the top or crown of his head, or, as it is vulgarly called, his pate ; and this figure should be at the least nine heads high, that is to say nine times as much as from the bottom of the chin to the top of the head. Others have shown it as contained within a perfect circle, drawing the lines to the circumference 56 OF THE BEAUTY OF WOMEN. from the fork of the legs, which they take as the centre, as you see here. M. Lampiada. Come hither, some- what nearer to us, where the ground is more even and you can draw the bet- ter. And, I pray you, now you have done so, draw that square containing contained in a circle, since you do it so well. Celso. It is done, for I can deny you nothing. You see the line is at an equal distance everywhere from the centre, as we said. We now come to the head, which I will draw for you as best I mav, foras- the figure, showing the length and the breadth of it. Celso. It is done thus. M. Selvaggia. Then show us also the plan of a figure OF THE BEAUTY OF WOMEN. 57 much as drawing is not my business, albeit it would do no discredit to the loftiest mind, but rather great credit ; and among the Greeks painting was accounted as one of the liberal arts. Note then, that to take perfect measure of the height of the head — and 1 call the head all that portion which is above the throat — you shall draw a right line which shall rest on another right line proceeding from the lowest part of the chin, and shall join another right line proceeding from the top of the head ; and so long as that line may be, nine times that length should be the measure of a man formed in due proportion, both for height and for breadth ; and what is said of a man is likewise to be under- stood of a woman in this, and in all other measurements. Yet have there 58 OF THE BEAUTY OF WOMEN. been many wise and worthy men who have written that women for the most part do not exceed seven heads, and others who say that to be well propor- tioned they should not exceed seven and a half. And this, meseemeth, finds support in the common use of nature. Thus you see that the measure of the whole person is taken from the head, and that of the head from the whole person. And inasmuch as that a figure of goodly stature, more especially that of a woman, should not be greater than seven and a half spans (the span being of nine fingers’ breadth, and the span and the fingers those of a well-pro- portioned hand), then the head, if in good and convenient proportion, will be seven and a half finger-breadths high. And since 1 have begun by drawing, 1 will now show you how painters reduce the perfect profile into a triangle ; yet, bear in mind that very few women are OF THE BEAUTY OF WOMEN. 59 perfect in the profile. And one of the most perfect which I mind me to have seen in Prato is that of the fair peasant- maid dwelling by the three conduits ; but she of the market-place, who among many ill-favoured faces is so well- favoured, and has so fine an air, and plays the country maiden so pleasantly, that all Prato justly esteems her as most fair, yet hath an imperfect profile through a small defect in the measure of her face, which, however, few would discern, since (as the proverb saith) : Not every ox can read. Yet has she a sweet girl’s face. And the triangle is drawn thus. These painters will have us draw a right line from the angle, of equal length with the lines of the triangle, and from the end of this line upwards the nose is drawn ; and at a finger’s breadth and a half from the angle, or rather more, on this same line they place the ear ; leaving below the line, the tip, 6o OF THE BEAUTY OF WOMEN. which, narrowing in the shape of a small balass ruby, so gracefully finishes the lower end of the ear. Moreover, they carry from the upper angle another right line of equal length with the middle line, from which they draw a curve, bending gently down to the top of the nose, which must be over against the inner corner of the eye, making the arch of the head to the forehead, and from the forehead to the top of the nose and to the little hollow which lies between the one and the other eyebrow. From the lower angle there comes a right line ending exactly beneath the ear, and from the fourth part of it, where you see the letter v, a line is drawn, as it were a semicircle, one end of it lying a little higher up where you may see the sign 7. Here the chin ends, and the other end of this line OF THE BEAUTY OF WOMEN. 6 1 meets the beginning of the throat. Thus we see that the chin should have a little fatness, as hath that of Amelia’s fair cousin, which lends great grace to her charming little face. And there must be the same distance from the tip of the nose to where it begins to be straight, which is at the base of the forehead, as there is between the end of the chin and the top of the upper lip ; and the same length from the end of the upper lip to the base of the nose as from the inner corner of each eye to the middle of the bridge of the nose. And the breadth of the nose at the base must be equal to its length, and the hollow of the eye from the part below the eyebrow to that by the cheek must be equal with the space from where the cheek joins the nose to where it meets the ear. There are many other measure- ments which, however, are of no im- portance, and as Nature even rarely 6.2 OF THE BEAUTY OF WOMEN. conforms to them, we will leave them to the painters who, with a stroke of the brush more or less, may lengthen or shorten them as seemeth good to them. M. Amoi'orrisca. Alack, you have frightened me with telling me of so many measurements. So when we have children, male or female, we must provide ourselves with rule and com- passes. To tell you the truth, if I ever believed myself fair (as many times I have been told I am ; nay, and looking at myself in the glass, to confess the truth, I have been fain to believe it) now 1 declare to you that henceforth I shall deem myself deformed. Dear Heaven ! Alas, I misdoubt that I should be found wanting by any of these measures, and may go hide myself. Celso. There is no need to be in such haste to hide ; albeit you may not have all the complete parts of perfect OF THE BEAUTY OF WOMEN. 63 and measured beauty, it is enough that you have such as, in the opinion of others, earn you the place of fairest of the fair. And if even the concord of parts in you do not result in the very pink of perfect harmony, it is enough that it gives rise to so much grace and charm that you have no cause to hide yourself, but rather to show yourself more than you do. And those handsome sons and graceful daughters having your image stamped upon them shall bear witness to all who are not born in time to see you. M. Amororrisca. Well-a-day! Where Nature may have failed in some little particular you so amply supply the lack with words, that I shall easily return to my former belief. Yet, let us waste no more time in such prating. Proceed, I entreat you, with your dis- course. Celso. Since it is your pleasure, so 64 OF THE BEAUTY OF WOMEN. be it. Let me then go on to expound the more particular beauties of the face, and then by degrees we will speak of the other members. And first of the eyes, wherein the noblest and most perfect of the senses dwells, through which our intellect apprehends, as through windows of transparent glass, all things visible, and through which, moreover, the greatest resolves of the soul are expressed, rather than through any other sense; whence we might conclude that Nature had made them with special mastery. Wherefore, as looking forth on the universe, she placed them in the highest part of the body, to the end that they may the more conveniently fulfil their office ; she made them round, inasmuch as that having that shape which is the most comprehensive, the sight should the more largely take in the objects which are offered to it ; in which Nature OF THE BEAUTY OF WOMEN. 65 discerned another conveniency, namely : that this spherical form, not being hindered by any kind of corner, can turn on all sides far more quickly than any other, this ease being further aided by that pure liquid wherewith the eyes are constantly kept wet ; for you know full well that smoothness comes of moisture, and that all things move much more easily, and roll, and turn, and glide in moisture than in drouth. In the centre of each, like two sparks of fire, she hath placed the pupils with the gift of sight, which dwelling here, seizes on the objects which come before it. We need not dispute here as to whether it is the eye that seeketh the object or the object the eye, inasmuch as this question pertaineth not to our present matter. Now through this sphere, I say, the soul is compelled sometimes to betray the secret thoughts of the breast, and F 66 OF THE BEAUTY OF WOMEN. often we may read in the eyes that which is written in the heart. The sight of both eyes combines in such a manner that, without hindering each other, they can gaze at one and the same object both at the same time ; so that when the right eye seeth an object the left seeth not another. And to the end that they may be pro- vided and protected from all peril, from what might fall from the forehead, such as sweat, and all other accident, they are under shelter of the hairs of the eye- brows, as it were two ramparts to keep off intruders, and covered by two move- able eyelids, easy to be opened and closed, and moreover, armed with hairs to keep out that which might rashly dare to enter. And their swift motion falling and rising with incredible rapidity doth not only never hinder the sense of sight, but strengthens it and gives it rest, and when they are weary they OF THE BEAUTY OF WOMEN. 67 close and hide the eyes in peaceful sleep, to the great soothing and wonder- ful comfort of all the other members. The keenness of the eye, lodged as it were in a transparent parchment skin, is preserved and maintained in all its clearness by that fluid whereof I spoke, as we know by experience ; for you know that if by any accident the eye should become dry, it forthwith loses the sense of sight. The nose takes its rise from near the brows and ends above the mouth, filling the space described above, and by rising slightly it seems to fix a bastion between the two eyes. The cheeks likewise, one on this side and one on that, rising with a soft swell, appear to be placed in defence of the eyes. But to return to the nose, I say that the upper part is composed of solid matter, and the lower part of a cartilage so soft and flexible that it can be the 68 OF THE BEAUTY OF WOMEN. better handled and kept clear, and if it be hit, as may easily happen, it suffers no great hurt, yielding to the blow. And this member, though it may seem of no great importance, fulfils three necessary offices : breathing, smelling, and clearing the brain through its two cavities. And the Great Artificer, framing it for these useful needs, placed it in such a fashion as that it should appear to be made for beauty and to adorn the face rather than for such uses. Below the nose is placed the mouth, with two functions: one being to speak, and the other to convey food whither it is needed. And being cut across the face it was next hemmed round by Nature with those two lips of finest coral, in the image of the margin of a fair fountain. It was dedicated by the ancients to Venus, for here is the seat of tender kisses, apt to draw two souls in exchange out of one body into the OF THE BEAUTY OF WOMEN. 69 other. And therefore when we gaze on them intently, filled with extremest joy, it seems to us as though our soul were on the point of flying forth, happy to go and settle there. Of the palate and the tongue we need not speak, since they are not visible ; but of the teeth I may say that besides their use in chewing food and so effect- ing its first digestion in the mouth, helping it to pass the more readily into the stomach, they add so much beauty, and graciousness, and brightness to a charming face that without them it would seem that beauty is loth to inhabit there. And yet more, if the teeth are not good, the laugh cannot be frank ; and the laugh, if it be used at the right time, and with modesty, maketh of the mouth a paradise ; and is moreover a most sweet messenger of the peace and con- tentment of the heart. Indeed, the 70 OF THE BEAUTY OF WOMEN. sages have said that the laugh was nothing less than the radiance from the serenity of the soul, and thus it is most seemly in a noble and gentle lady (if we may believe Plato in his “ Republic,” as I do for my part), as a manifestation of her happiness, to laugh with modesty, severity and candour, without much motion of her body, in a low tone, and rarely rather than often. As doth that cousin of Selvaggia’s, of whom you were disputing but just now. Verdespina. But your gossip, who often laughed, was praised for her laugh as much as for any other charm ; and she had so many that in Prato she deservedly held the highest place above all other beauties. Celso. My gossip was so full of grace that if she had forever laughed she would forever have pleased. But this is not the case with all. Your Amaretta, who wrinkles her face when she laughs, if OF THE BEAUTY OF WOMEN. 7 1 she laughed so often would not please so well, albeit she has the finest teeth. But there are certain graces which Heaven rarely vouchsafes here below and which fall on few. Hence laughter should be rare, for too much laughter is a sign of too great mirth, and a discreet lady cannot be too mirthful. Now Nature, knowing how much grace it would lend if she gave the bare teeth a little border about the roots, and how much charm if she parted them by narrow and equal intervals, hath bound them together by the gums as by a little ribbon, and parted them by such spaces, measured by that Mistress Nature, in such a guise that, besides their utility, they have that charm which you and I have a thousand times enjoyed, and shall again enjoy if Mona Amororrisca will vouchsafe to show us hers. Selvaggia. Aye, indeed, Madonna, do not hide them, for on feast days 72 OF THE BEAUTY OF WOMEN. beautiful things are displayed, and not concealed. M. Amororrisca. You are all agreed to make game of me. You know what Selvaggia is to everyone ; but I pray you proceed. Celso. From the cheeks, in a gentle line, the chin begins, and ends in two full curves, between which lieth, as it were, a sweet dimple, as we see in Appollonia, who, as you said the other day, appeared so passing fair in San Domenico on Corpus Christi day. And if 1 may speak my mind concerning her she is a most fair and gracious maiden, and hath few peers in these parts ; a rare jewel in a base ring. God be with her. The ears stand open in the highest part of the body, to the end that they may the more easily receive sounds as they fall through the air which they pierce and rend ; and they are uncovered to OF THE BEAUTY OF WOMEN. 73 the end that sounds may penetrate them the more readily ; they have such tor- tuous convolutions that the sound, having once entered, cannot return back by reason of the difficulties of the way. And they are made in the likeness of that little instrument which is called an alembic, which, collecting and con- densing a fluid, carries it into a larger vessel in such a way as that none is spilt ; so the ear collects dispersed sounds and diffuses them through a narrow channel into the large vessel of the brain, to the care of memory, which dwells in the occiput above the nape of the neck. They are not made of soft or thin or loose skin, as we see in many other animals, for imagination will tell you that this would have been most un- seemly ; nor are they composed of hard and solid bone, since that would have made the use of hearing far more difficult, and besides v/ould have hin- 74 OF THE BEAUTY OF WOMEN. dered the repose of the whole body ; since for the hardness and stiffness of those bones we could not have laid the head down in the stillness of sleep, or of rest from our fatigues, as we often do. Hence they were moulded of a material which is somewhat supple and yet not soft, so that they should be no hindrance to rest, and should be apt to receive sounds ; wherein, apart from utility, and with regard to beauty and comeliness, how beautiful is the semi- circle or rose-tinted hem ; and the pen- dant drop, likened to a pale ruby, how exquisite and graceful ; so that when, as the custom is in many parts of Italy, some precious gem is hung in it, the ear not only loses no beauty by com- parison, but gains it, with loss to the jewel. And the passage within the ear which carries in the voice, has certain turns and sinuosities, and a winding OF THE BEAUTY OF WOMEN. 75 way, as has been said, to the end that the voice, penetrating more slowly, gives to the sense of hearing more time to present it to the common sense. Moreover this is an hindrance to the entrance of many insects which might otherwise fly in. And if perchance one should enter there, there is a certain glutinous wax which stops it that it may not go so far in as to hinder the use of hearing. Moreover these tortuous passages and, as it were, little caverns, serve to magnify the sounds which enter, as do the convolutions of a sea shell or of a twisted trumpet, and as we find that it does in hollows and caves and deep valleys in the country, where the voice, being entangled, is doubled and re-echoed. Next of the throat, which is able to bend with much grace and turn to either side, besides covering and protecting the two vital canals called tubes, by which 76 OF THE BEAUTY OF WOMEN. we breathe and by which the food, when ground down, passes to the cooking-pot of the stomach. And behind these are the shoulders, whence proceed the arms, with the elbow joint and the marvellous and necessary usefulness of the hands, the potent minis- ters of touch, which, with the concave palm and flexible fingers, are most apt to grasp and hold whatsoever they will ; and it is hard to say whether their use or their beauty is the greater. The breadth of the bosom lends great majesty to the whole person ; and there are the breasts, two hills of snow and of roses with two little crowns of fine rubies on their peaks, as it were the spouts of those fair and useful vessels, which, besides their service in distilling nourishment for little infants, have a particular beauty of such new charm that our eye will dwell on them even against our will, and indeed with great OF THE BEAUTY OF WOMEN. 77 delight, as do mine, gazing on the white bosom of one of you — But lo ! the beauties are hidden ! If you do not withdraw that veil as it was before, I proceed no further. M. Lampiada. Nay, remove it, Sel- vaggia, for you have done us an ill turn. Ah ! you do well to lay it aside. Yes, that is well. Now, Messer Celso, pro- ceed with the sermon, since the relics are unveiled. Celso. Of the other parts of the body, down to the legs (inasmuch as they are clothed, and, as I have said, they add nothing to our beauty, excepting as a whole) it is seemly to keep silence. 1 will speak only of the legs, by whose movement we pass from place to place, bending the knees, which are attached to the tendons from the hip to the heel, and thus are bound together with the support of the whole person, namely the foot. 78 OF THE BEAUTY OF WOMEN. The foot, being the beginning and, as it were, the base of all the other limbs, is most sightly and of great importance to the general beauty of the person. For whenever the eye is weary, or rather is overcome and amazed by the supreme and incomprehensible sweetness that it hath derived from the contemplation of the eyes, the cheeks, the lips and other parts, restraining the act of sight it drops, as it were in fear, and it rests upon the foot just as a weary head rests upon a pillow. And so, sweet ladies, be not so chary of showing yours from time to time. Take example by the Romans, who cherished the foot no less than the face. And thus far have 1 spoken enough of the beauty, use, pur- pose, form and proportion of all the limbs in general ; and when we come to the composition of a beautiful woman we shall discourse more particularly from the example of yourselves. OF THE BEAUTY OF WOMEN. 79 Ver despina. If Madonna Diambra were here, who, had she no other beauty — though indeed she has every beauty — than the brightness of her hair, would seem a second Helen, and if she had heard your discourse, I can tell you she would swell with rage, since she is wont to say that however well-favoured a lady may be, if she have not fine hair her beauty is despoiled of all charm and glory ; and you have not mentioned it. Celso. She is in the right, and you did well to remind me, for I had for- gotten it, and indeed with good reason, since meseems, you hold it of small account. You cover it till you are brides, and thenceforth I do not see you spread it to the winds ; and this is ill done, forasmuch as it is the greatest adornment to beauty and created by Nature for the dispersion of the super- fluous humours of the brain and the other parts of the head. Forasmuch as 8o OF THE BEAUTY OF WOMEN. that the hairs, albeit they are very fine, are hollow tubes, to the end that these superfluous humours may be exhaled. And of this particular beauty, and of what Apuleius saith in describing Pbotis, 1 shall speak further when I come to the composition of a fair woman which we shall presently invent. Now, having discoursed thus far, which shall suffice, of beauty, it remains for me to keep my promise to declare what is Charm. Charm, as some will have it, and according to the sense of the word 1 is nought else than the observance of an unspoken law given and promulgated by Nature to you ladies for the move- ment and carriage of the whole person as of the particular members, with grace, with modesty, with gentleness, with measure and dignity, in such a manner 1 In Italian Leggiadria, OF THE BEAUTY OF WOMEN. 8 1 as that no motion nor act shall lack rule, and method, and measure, and purpose ; but be rather, as this tacit law requires, studied, composed, regular and gracious. And 1 call it a tacit law, since it is no- where written save in a certain natural judgment, which itself can know nor tell nothing of it but that Nature will have it so. And whereas this law may not be taught by books, nor shown in practice, it is not to be seen in all fair ladies alike ; rather do we every day see some of them who are so ungainly and foolish that it is a weariness to behold them. And the gentle Lucrezia, who dwelleth there by San Domenico, by reason that she faithfully observes this law and hath all the parts which we seek for in true charm, pleases all who know her. And if her features may perchance be faulty in some small matter, according to the standard of certain very accurate limners, neverthe- G 82 OF THE BEAUTY OF WOMEN. less, when she laughs she pleases, when she speaks she delights us, when she is silent she fills everyone with admiration ; if she walks, it is with grace ; if she sits down, it is with elegance ; if she sings, 'tis sweetly ; if she dances, Venus is her guide ; if she discourses, the Muses teach her. In short, whatever she doth is a marvel. M. Lampiada. You can never have seen how well that maiden pleases me, not only in that she has indeed so choice a spirit, as you know, but that to my mind she is likewise fair. Hence I rejoice that we are of the same opinion. Celso. She is in truth most pleasing; but I would have you to know of another who hath ever appeared to me to be a gentle maiden and filled with so much charm and grace that, if I had to paint a Venus, 1 know not that 1 would take the portrait of any other lady than she. And do not think that I say this OF THE BEAUTY OF WOMEN. 8 } by reason of those marvellous gifts and a grand manner that she hath, since to-day it is not my purpose to discourse of the beauties of the mind ; I speak only of the beauties of the body. Selvaggia. Who then is it ? God save you from all ill that may befall you. Celso. God save me then from your piercing looks, and I will tell you that Qjiadrabianca Buonvisa seems to me a charming and a gracious damsel, and full of great attractions. Selvaggia. Thank God, who grants high destinies to few ! And indeed what you say is true. Celso. Aye, but you are among those few. Yet is Grace another matter, whereof I will now speak. Now of this Grace, — that is the grace which is a part of beauty, and not one of those who were handmaidens to Venus; these, mystically speaking, sig- G 2 84 OF THE BEAUTY OF WOMEN. nify nought else than a guerdon abun- dantly bestowed by grateful persons in return for benefits received ; and whereas in the acts and traffic of love many benefits accrue mutually between lovers, and they are ever giving guerdons one to another all the day, therefore the Graces were appointed to attend Venus. And setting aside the other two we will take Aglaia, which signifies lustre, and which has much bearing on our matter, inasmuch as it is our opinion that grace is nothing else than a lustre produced in some occult way by a certain par- ticular union of some limbs or features, of which we cannot say that they are these or those, joined and met together with consummate beauty and true per- fection. And this lustre strikes our eye with such instancy, and so great satis- faction to our heart and joy to our mind, that forthwith it is this grace which delights us more even than OF THE BEAUTY OF WOMEN. 85 beauty, and silently compels our desire to dwell on that sweet lustre. Thus, as was said before, we very often behold a face which has not features according to the perfect measure of beauty, yet which, nevertheless, diffuses this lustre of grace of which we are speaking, as in Madonna Modestina, who is neither tall nor well proportioned as we have described a beauty, and not- withstanding has in that little face of hers a wondrous grace, so that it is pleasing to all. Whereas you will see another with well-proportioned features who may be deservedly esteemed beauti- ful by all, and who nevertheless has not a certain witchery, as we see in Mona Ancilia’s sister. Thus we are fain to believe that this lustre is the result of an occult proportion and measure which is not to be found in our books, which is unknown to us, nay, and not to be imagined, but is, as we say of things 86 OF THE BEAUTY OF WOMEN. we cannot express: We know not what. To say that it is a beam of love and other quintessences, though it were learned, subtle and ingenious, would have no foundation in truth. It is called grace by reason that she in whom that lustre and that occult proportion is diffused is made gracious and dear, as moreover gratitude for benefits received makes him gracious and dear who feels it. And this is all I can or will say of it at this present ; and if you would know more of it, gaze into the eyes of that bright luminary, whose beautiful eyes give light to every pilgrim soul which is in search of the truth. To demonstrate what Wantonness is, it is needful that you should know that this word wanton or frolicsome sig- nifies three things: Firstly, a motion from place to place. As Petrarca hath it: “ My wanton thoughts brought to a better place.” OF THE BEAUTY OF WOMEN. 87 Secondly: Desire, as we read in the same : “ I am so wanton gazing on that face.” And Boccaccio, in his Fiammetta : “ Whereby they grew wanton.” Thirdly : Fair or well-favoured. Again Petrarca: “With wanton airs and an- gelical manners.” And Boccaccio, in the same place: “A party of wanton youths.” From the first meaning : of move- ment, we have (in the Italian, vago) the word vagabond, and from that meaning we have the second meaning : of desire. Since an object which is in motion and wantons now here now there rouses, it would seem, a more ardent desire in another than one which stands still, as we may observe at our leisure. And whereas it seems inevitable that we should love all things we may desire, and whereas we have concluded from 88 OF THE BEAUTY OF WOMEN. what hath been said that we cannot love that which is not (or seems not) beauti- ful, hence the common sense hath come into use of vago — that is wanton for beautiful, and wantonness for beauty. But yet, in this special sense that it signifies that beauty, dwelling in every part, by which every one that gazeth is compelled to become wanton, that is to feel desire, and, feeling desire, to pursue and to enjoy it, his heart is ever in motion, his thoughts wandering, and his mind is a very vagabond. Hence wantonness in this sense is attractive beauty, inducing the desire to gaze upon it and enjoy it. Wherefore we speak of such an one as a little wanton, when she hath a certain wandering and witch- ing air mingled with frankness, and with an inviting way, as hath Fiamminghetta ; and Venus told me this night in a dream that within two years from now a damsel of Pistoia shall come among the OF THE BEAUTY OF WOMEN. 89 flowers of Prato, who shall be named Lena, and who will have this wanton- ness in her eyes ; and there is come now one among you whom I will not name, who, in my judgment, has much of this enticing charm. M. Amororrisca. And you do well, lest some emulation should have birth among us, to give occasion to scandal. But albeit you name her not, 1 see carved on your brow her whom you bear in your heart. Yet will 1 say no more, for: whoso should reveal her would spoil her. Celso. Others divine in three guesses, but you in only one. But now to quit this matter and return to our promise, according to which I have yet to speak of Seemliness. Now note this : Cicero saith that there are two kinds of beauty, of which one consists in seemliness and the other in dignity, and that seemliness is proper to 90 OF THE BEAUTY OF WOMEN. women and dignity to men. Hence, according to him — and his authority may weli suffice you — dignity is to a man what seemliness is to a woman. And whereas dignity in a man is nothing else than an aspect full of true nobility, reverence and admiration, so seemliness in a woman will be a chaste, noble and virtuous aspect, reverent and admiring, with every movement full of modest loftiness, as you may see in Gualanda Forella if you contemplate her without envy. And to the end that those who, having little learning, are wont to blame those who labour all day to get know- ledge, in their great presumption might say that the word Venusta, herein called seemliness, is derived from Venus, who is known to all the poets as the mother of lascivious loves, and that it cannot in reason signify aught else than a lascivious kind of beauty, I judge it convenient to deliver you with a few words of reason OF THE BEAUTY OF WOMEN. 91 from this error, if perchance you hold it (but I trow not). And let those blame me for it who will ; there will be many. Now take note : According to the ancients two Venuses were lauded ; one the daughter of the earth, whose deeds were of the earth and unseemly, the author of all unseemly acts. The other (said they) the daughter of heaven, whose thoughts, acts, modes, and words are divine, chaste, pure and holy ; and from her proceed this love- liness and all lovely things, and naught which is unseemly. Now must we speak of the Air ; and here you must lend the ear of the intellect with the utmost attention. Sweet my ladies, there is a proverb borrowed from the Latins (and of how great authority proverbs were held among the ancients may easily be seen, not only in the writings of these Latins, but in Greek writers, who are full of 92 OF THE BEAUTY OF WOMEN. them), and this proverb saith : Con- scientia mille testes, which is as much as to say that a pure and clean con- science is worth a thousand witnesses. Granting then that this proverb is most true, we will say that those women whose conscience is spotted by some foulness which soils and stains the purity and clearness and cleanness of their will, caused by the misuse of their reason, being pierced all day by the remembrance of their guilt and dis- turbed by the evidence of their wounded conscience, fall into a certain fever of the soul which disquiets and perturbs it incessantly. And this perturbation and disquiet lead to such a disposition of the humours (which by their vapours spoil her face, staining the purity thereof, and chiefly of the eyes, which, as hath been said above, are the ministers and messen- gers of the heart) as creates in them a certain countenance, and, as the vulgar OF THE BEAUTY OF WOMEN. 93 say* “ a certain evil air,” revealing the infirmity of the soul ; as the pallor of the cheeks and other features doth show the sickness of the body and the perturba- tion and disorder of its humours. Nor need it seem strange to you that the disorders of the spirit should affect the members of the body, since experience shows it every day in those pangs of mind whence oftentimes proceedeth fever in the body, and sometimes death. And when once you know what the evil air is which indicates and reveals the infection of the sick soul as here described, you shall soon know the good countenance of the healthy soul, since, as Aristotle hath well said in the fifth book of the Ethics, if we have known one contrary habit, need must be that we know the other ; in the same place, further down, he shows this much more clearly, saying that if a good habit of body be revealed by the firm- 94 OF THE BEAUTY OF WOMEN. ness and substance of the flesh, need must be that an evil habit of body will be seen in its softness and leanness. By which example you may plainly know that when it is said of a woman that she has an air, or an expression, it is nothing else but that she has certain good signs revealing the health of her soul and the clearness of her conscience ; thus when we say simply “ an air,” by a figure of speech or autonomasia (or as we might say par excellence ), we mean a good air or expression ; and a bad air, or no air, signifies a sign or countenance betraying the disorder of the mind, and the stains of an evil conscience. M. Amororrisca. Indeed your explana- tion of this passage is very fine and worthy of great consideration, as being not only true but likewise new ; yet is it much more worthy of your ingenuity than of our understanding, nevertheless you have made it so plain that we have OF THE BEAUTY OF WOMEN. 95 been able to apprehend it. But we will reserve your further praises till another occasion, and now in silence await your discourse on what you name Majesty. Celso. I know not what to say of majesty, save that it is a common use of daily speech when a lady is tall and well shaped, carries herself well, sits with a certain grandeur, speaks with gravity, laughs with modesty, and finally diffuses, as it were, an odour of queenliness ; we say that such an one displays majesty, or is majestic ; which is borrowed from the royal throne, where every act and motion should be admirable and re- verend. Thus by majesty we mean nothing else than the movement and carriage of a lady with a certain royal pomp ; of a lady, I say, who is some- what tall and robust. And if you would see an example of this, behold the most illustrious lady the Contessa da Vernia, who, with her queenly presence, acts, 96 OF THE BEAUTY OF WOMEN. gestures and speech, will not fail to show those who know it not otherwise that she is the sister of the most magni- ficent Signor Gualterotto de’ Bardi, and the gracious wife of the most honour- able and modest Signor Alberto ; of illustrious birth, and nobly married. And this is all I can think of to tell you concerning beauty in general and all its particulars, albeit 1 fear I have not completely satisfied your desires. M. Lampiada. Inasmuch as I am the oldest 1 may not be deemed presump- tuous if 1 answer for all ; so I say that you have in truth satisfied us far better than we should have known how to ask you ; albeit in you we might look for great things. Still, we would fain con- firm one apprehension by the example of that Chimera of beauty which you promised to describe. Celso. You are indeed very old ! And we see it plainly in your face, which is OF THE BEAUTY OF WOMEN. 97 as fresh and smooth as ever another, with all respect be it said to all the ladies here present. Yet albeit you are not past the flower of youth, you are elder in apprehension and wit, and of so many virtues that it would better beseem me to be silent than to speak too lowly of them. And you can use no better name than that of a Chimera, since just as the Chimera may be imagined but never found, so that fair one whom we will devise may be imagined but never found ; and we shall more easily under- stand what is needed to compose beauty than we shall see beauty ; with no dis- paragement to the beauty of you who are here present, or of others whoever they be, and who, though indeed they have not everything united in their person, have this or that part which suffices to make them admired, nay, and bethought beautiful. Now to come to our Chimera. H 98 OF THE BEAUTY OF WOMEN. Celso had opened his mouth to begin when there appeared on the mount fair Gemmula dal Pozzonuovo, all modesty and gentleness, and verily a precious pearl ; she, having notice of this little company, like a lady of good wit, was attracted by the odour of this discourse. And she had with her that bright gem which, with its foil of many virtues, lends radiance to the Piazza di San Francisco ; and they had hardly come half-way up the mount when well nigh all the other youths and maidens who were dispersed about the garden, sing- ing and laughing and sporting as is their custom, came to call them ; so that Celso was compelled to give up his purpose and depart with them to a collation which had been made ready by Madonna Simona de’ Benintendi, a wise and reverend Florentine matron, wife of the master of the garden. A lady, she, so worthy, that to write her praises OF THE BEAUTY OF WOMEN, 99 would need too great length of words. And the meal being ended, they danced and sang, and did all things suitable to a seemly party of noble and virtuous ladies, and of gentle and well- beloved youths ; and this lasted till it was the hour for each one to return to his own home. h 2 OF THE PERFECT BEAUTY OF A LADY, BY MESSER AGNOLO FIRENZUOLO, FLORENTINE. ©art IE, W whereas among those damsels who had been pre- sent on the mound during the former discourse, a strong desire remained to learn the composition of that fair one which Celso had promised to describe to them, they entreated Madonna Lampiada that she would name for another day a spot where this their desire might be ful- 102 OF THE BEAUTY OF WOMEN. filled ; and she, who hearkened no less willingly than they to the words of Celso, or at least feigned it, caused him to be bidden by her husband, a very ingenious gentleman, to come to his house on the next feast-day with these same ladies, and with others, and youths of their kindred, to spend the evening ; and there, after that Celso had been duly entreated and had modestly excused himself, he began as follows : It is a certain truth that Nature is at all times a generous and liberal giver of her favours to the general and common herd of men ; but yet in particular cases it doth not appear that she is so ; nay, we might affirm from daily experience that she is most miserly and avaricious, since, as we saw in our last discourse, she hath no doubt bestowed all things, yet hath not given all to all, but rather one thing to one and one to another, which thing the ancient poets expressed OF THE BEAUTY OF WOMEN. \ 0 } by figuring her a woman with many breasts, whence man, being unable to take more than a mouthful at a time, derives but a small part of his nutri- ment. Moreover, if you consider the nature of the breast, you will see that, albeit it is of such fulness and abun- dance as we all know, yet it doth not pour forth milk of itself, but must be sucked. And this is to signify that forasmuch as we need many things, we must toil with art, industry and wit to acquire, or to beautify, or to preserve them. And since the channel out of which the milk flows is small, and hardly a drop comes forth at once, we may consider that this is as much as to say that Nature bestoweth not her favours with a free hand on anyone, but grudgingly, one on each, and one at a time. Whence it comes that few indeed are found of perfect beauty ; that one who has a fine shape has not a delicate 104 OP THE beauty of women. face, as Madonna Altea of the three Conduits ; and another who has a deli- cate face is short in stature, like Madonna Fiore dal Campanile ; and she who is adorned with the finest eyes, like Ma- donna Lucida of the Via de’ Sarti, hath not a fine shape ; so that if we would depict one who shall be perfect — if not in all things, yet in most things — it is needful, as I told you in my last dis- course, to cull the excellence in parti- cular beauty from each of you four, and imagine such a fair lady as we desire to see. But before coming to the painting we must grind the colours ; and not merely white and black, which, as the writers tell us, are of the first impor- tance ; but all those others we shall need ; so that we may not have to stop when we are at work. These, then, will be the colours we shall need : A fair yellow and a tawny, black, red, cream, white, vermilion and carnation. OF THE BEAUTY OF WOMEN. 105 Now you must know that a fair yellow is a not very hot yellow nor very pale, but verging on tan, with somewhat more lustre ; and albeit not altogether like gold, yet often likened to it by poets ; since you know that they are wont to say (as Petrarca doth in many places) that a lady’s hair is of fine gold, woven in a crown of bright and crisped gold : “ Her golden hair fluttered in the wind and you know that the true and right colour for hair is a fair yellow. Tawny is of two degrees, one verging on yellow, and this is not for us ; the other much darker, which is called tan colour, and two brushfuls will be enough of that. Of black I need give no description, since it is known to all, and that Floren- tine lady whom you made so welcome hath her full share of it. And the more dense and dark it is the finer it is. 10 6 OF THE BEAUTY OF WOMEN. Red is that fiery hue which we see in cochineal, in coral, in rubies, in the flower of the pomegranate, and the like ; and we find it more or less fiery, and more or less unmingled, as we see in the objects named. Vermilion likewise is a kind of red, but less strong ; in short, it is the hue which resembles the cheek of fair Fran- colina di Palazzuolo when she is pro- voked, and this maiden seems to me to bear away the prize for bright carnations in these parts. But to let that pass, and return to the colour of vermilion ; we may see it exactly in the wine which here in Tuscany is called vermiglia. Carnation is a white tinted with red, or a red shaded with white, like those roses which we call carmine, or in Italian imbalconate .* 1 Firenzuola, in the text, gives the following account of the etymology of this word : “ These roses when they were first brought into this OF THE BEAUTY OF WOMEN. 107 Of the difference between fair and white, having spoken at length in my former discourse, I need not return to it now. Having ground the colours we shall need, we may now with the greater ease begin, and the first part we will paint shall be the hair, to the end that we may not forget it as we did last time. The hair then, according to those who from time to time have written con- cerning it, should be fine and fair, in the similitude now of gold, now of honey, and now of the bright and shining rays of the sun ; waving, thick, abundant and long, as the aforenamed country, which is not long since, were held of such great price that he who had but one, in a fine vessel full of water, to the end that it might remain green and fresh, would put it in his balcony to show it to his neighbours as a new rare thing. From which the name of imbal- conata , given to their colour.’’ 108 OF THE BEAUTY OF WOMEN. Apuleius hath it in the same book, wherein, speaking of its importance and essential beauty and all its qualities and diversity, he hath these express words, and would that I could repeat them in our tongue as they sound in the Latin, but that is impossible. Yet will 1 try. He says this : “If you should remove from the shining head of any well-favoured maiden the glory of the bright light of her fair hair, you would find her bereft of every grace and lacking all charm, even if it were she who was conceived in heaven, born of the sea, and nurtured by the waters, Venus her- self amid the Graces and attended by her loves, girt with the cistus of desire, loaded with charms, overcharged with blandishments, adorned with a thousand sweet and flattering witcheries ; Venus, 1 say, the beauteous Venus, who, being judged the fairest of the three fairest OF THE BEAUTY OF WOMEN. IO9 goddesses, bore off the apple of beauty. And she even, without the glory and ornament of her golden hair, would please no man, nor even her Vulcan, her husband and tender lover. How fair to see is a charming woman, when her thick hair covers her head in dense abundance, or floats over her shoulders in free profusion.” Thus, as we learn from this worthy, hair is of so much importance to the perfection of a fair woman, and merits such care, and so great honour is due to it, that, besides what he hath said, Dion, a most illustrious Greek writer, composing his fine oration in its praise, esteems as ignorant and of no account those who fail to attend to the care of it, with bodkins and irons proper for curling it ; and tells us that the ancients, who slept on the ground, supported their heads on pieces of wood for fear of spoiling it, whence we see that they esteemed it so IIO OF THE BEAUTY OF WOMEN. highly that for its sake they contemned the ease and rest of sweet sleep which is our sole true repose from human toil. Moreover, the Lacedemonians, nurtured under the severe laws of Lycurgus, took such care of their hair that we read of the three hundred who so valiantly fought againt Darius, King of Persia, as the ancient histories proclaim, that while they awaited that bloody battle they did not neglect the care of their hair. The great Homer names as a signal ornament of the beauty of his Achilles the splen- dour of his flowing hair, and when Apuleius, who has been so often men- tioned, sets forth wherein the beauty of ladies consists, he adds these words : ‘ ‘ So great is the dignity of the hair that even if she be most beautiful, and array herself most sumptuously in gold and pearls and rich apparel, and go about adorned in all the fashion and frippery that may be imagined, if she have not OF THE BEAUTY OF WOMEN. I I I disposed her hair in a fair order with pleasing skill, never shall it be said that she is beautiful nor elegant.” And now, whereas we know of what importance the hair is, and what its qualities should be, we may conclude that Verdespina’s has them all, and we will take it from her for our picture. Selvaggia. Bring hither the scissors, Lena, to cut it off. Yet, how would you have her cut it off? With a razor? Celso. I would not have her cut it, neither with the scissors nor with a razor, but with the blade of the ima- gination. Behold how this Selvaggia mocks all I say ! And yet she is in the wrong, for I do not so to her. But patience ; time peradventure will show her her error, since nought else will avail. But to return to the matter : now that we have her hair, fair, fine, soft, waving, abundant, long, shining and in comely order, we must find the person I 12 OF THE BEAUTY OF WOMEN. on whom to place it, to the end that it may not befall us as it did a certain man to whom plants were given which, while he sought a garden wherein to set them, all dried up ; and thus by the ignorance of the possessor the gift was cast away. Selvaggia. Well, then, Verdespina, you did well not to cut it off too soon. So dainty as he is, he will perchance be long in seeking the person on whom to place it, since he is not the man to be satisfied with the first to hand ; and in the meanwhile the hair might be spoiled. Celso. There is none here present who knows better than you whether indeed 1 am too dainty or easy to please. Yet have I already given you the lie inasmuch I have found her, and of a fair form, that, namely, of Madonna Amororrisca. She is of the very stature which we seek, a little more or less, but sufficient if my eyes, the faithful appraisers OF THE BEAUTY OF WOMEN. I 1 3 of beauty, deceive me not. The whole person is pleasing when it gives rise to straight and slender limbs at due inter- vals and of due proportion ; but I would not have it over great nor over fat. Selvaggia. Yet, albeit Madonna Hiblea Soporella is very fat, she is nevertheless a well-favoured damsel, and carries her- self so well, so uprightly, so nimbly, so gracefully, that in truth it is a pleasure to behold her gait. Celso. This is one of those things I have said a thousand times. These are graces which few possess, nor is it thus with all women. This one hath a cer- tain majesty of person ; such seemliness in her looks, such grace in her face, such grandeur in her gait, that it might seem that her fatness had bestowed on her the beauty and the elegance which it is wont to take away. And, not to speak of her graciousness, and manner, and gentleness, and her fine wit and 114 OF THE beauty of women. other gifts of mind, I esteem her as one of the fair women of these parts, and I sorrow that she is not here with us to-day. M. Lainpiada. I had sent to her, but by reason of the death of her father and the sickness of her husband, she is in much trouble, and, as you know, it would not have been seemly that she should be one of our company. This is a grief to me, for she gladdens everything. Celso. To return to the person of our image, 1 say that you, Madonna Amor- orrisca, have a shape between lean and fat, round and juicy and of the right proportions, wherein we see suppleness and dexterity, with somewhat that is right queenly. Your hue is not of that whiteness which verges on pallor, but tinted with blood, after the fashion which the ancients prized. The person of a lady of high degree should move with gravity and after a certain gentle manner OF THE BEAUTY OF WOMEN. I I 5 which keeps it upright yet not stiff, so that we find in it that majesty whereof I lately spoke. And inasmuch as you have most of all these things, we are bound to give you Verdespina’s hair, and now will seek a forehead. The forehead must be spacious, that is wide and high, fair and serene. The height, which is understood to be from where the hair ends down to the con- fines of the eyebrows and the nose, according to many writers should be the third part of the face ; the second part being measured to the upper lip, and the third part all the rest, including the chin ; the height, then, I say, must be equal to half the width, and it will be twice as wide as the height-; so that from the width we estimate the height and the height from the width. And we have said it must be fair, since it must not be of an over dull whiteness, without any lustre, but should shine 1 1 6 OF THE BEAUTY OF WOMEN. after the manner of a mirror, not by wetness or by painting, or by foul washes, like that of Bovinetta, which, an it were fish to fry, might be worth a farthing a pound more as not needing to be floured ; howbeit it is not to be sold nor fried. The line of the brow should not be all flat, but curved like an arch towards the crown of the head, so gently that it is scarce to be perceived ; but from the boss of the temples it should descend more straightly. Our poets speak of it as serene, and with reason ; since as the sky is serene when we see on it no cloud nor any manner of spot, so the front, when it is clear and open, without furrows or wrinkles or powders, is calm and tranquil, and may be rightly called serene ; and where- as the sky when it is serene engenders a certain contentment in the mind of those who behold it, so the forehead OF THE BEAUTY OF WOMEN. I 1 7 which we call serene, gives, through the eye, peace to the soul of those who gaze upon it. As it is now with me, gazing on that of Madonna Lampiada, which, having all the qualities I have enumerated, will do well to place beneath Verdespina’s hair. And that serenity of which I speak is the greater for the lustre of the eyes, they being without the confines of the forehead indeed, and yet appearing as the two chief luminaries in the sky ; and we will first speak of the eyebrows. Now to speak of these we will take as an example those of Verdespina, who hath them in colour like ebony, fine and of short, soft hairs, as though they were of the finest silk ; and from the middle to the ends they gently diminish, on one side towards the hollow or socket of the eye, by the nose, and on the other towards that part which is near the ear, and where they end. I 1 8 OF THE BEAUTY OF WOMEN. Next we come to the eye, which in every part of the visible globe or eyeball, excepting the pupil, must be white, slightly tinged with the hue of flax, but so little as to be scarce perceptible. The pupil, save only the circle which lies in the centre, should not be perfectly black, albeit all the Greek and Latin poets, and our own likewise, praise black eyes, as with one voice, and all are agreed that the goddess of beauty had them. Never- theless, those are not wanting who praise eyes which are of the colour of the sky, and that Venus had them so is to be found written in certain trustworthy authors. Among you there is a lady, reputed exceeding fair by me and by many others, who, having such eyes, gains in grace thereby. Nevertheless, common custom seems to have obtained that dark tan or nut-brown eyes hold the first place among eyes of other colours. Deep OF THE BEAUTY OF WOMEN. I 1 9 black is not much to be commended, since it tends to a somewhat gloomy and cruel gaze ; and nut-brown, if dark, gives a soft, bright, clear and kindly gaze ; and it lends to the movement of the eyes I know not what alluring charm, frank, attractive and keen, which I can- not better explain than by pointing to those of Madonna Lampiada, to whom none of these qualities are lacking. And besides this that has been said, and again like Madonna Lampiada, the eyes must be large and full, not concave nor hollow, for hollowness makes the gaze over-proud and fulness makes it sweet and modest. So Homer, desiring to praise the eyes of Juno, tells us that they were like those of an ox, meaning there- by that they were round and full and large. Many have said that they should be long, and others that they should be oval, which pleases me very well. The eyelids, when they are white with 120 OF THE BEAUTY OF WOMEN. certain delicate rosy veins, hardly to be seen, are a great aid to the general beauty of the eye ; and the lashes should be thin and not over long and not white, since, besides being ill-favoured, they impair the sight. Nor would I have them very black, which makes the gaze fierce. The socket which surrounds the eye is not to be very deep, nor too large, nor different in colour from the cheek ; and let ladies who paint be on their guard, those, I would say, who are brown, since this part is very often un- apt to take the paint or the plastering by reason of its hollow shape, or to retain it by reason of the motion of the eye- lashes, and thus makes a division which looks very ill. Madonna Theofila’s neigh- bour often falls into this error. The ears, which should be tinted rather of the hue of pale rubies than of red ones, and which we will paint like the balcony rose, and not the damask, I OF THE BEAUTY OF WOMEN. 121 will borrow from you, Selvaggia. For their perfect beauty, as we see in yours, a middle size is to be desired, with the shell finely turned, and of a livelier hue than the flat part ; and the roll which borders them all round must be trans- parent and of a brilliant hue like the seed of the pomegranate. Above all, if they be soft and thin their beauty is spoiled ; hence, as they are seen in her, they should be firm, and well set on. Of the temples there is little to be said save that they must be white and flat, not hollow ; not over full and moist, nor so narrow as to seem to press on the brain, which would signify a weakness of the brain. And they are beautiful when they resemble those of Madonna Amor- orrisca. And the manner of laying the hair over them, higher or lower, curled or drawn smooth, thicker or thinner, enlarges or diminishes the temples and makes them wider or narrower, longer 122 OF THE BEAUTY OF WOMEN. or shorter, as we may desire, or as a little flower shall confine it. M. Lampiada. When I was a girl we did not love to dress our heads as many of our maidens do now-a-days, putting so many flowers and leaves that they often resemble a jar full of gilliflowers or marjoram ; nay, some might be a o 4 uarter of kid on the spit, since they will even wear rosemary, which to me seems the most graceless thing in the world. And you, Messer Celso, how seems it to you ? Celso. I like it not, if I am to tell the truth ; and this mistake arises from their not knowing for what reason the ancients would wear a flower above the ear. I speak of gentlewomen, since the peasant women, having no other jewels nor pearls, load themselves, as you know, with flowers, without order, fashion, or number ; and in them this excess becomes beauty. OF THE BEAUTY OF WOMEN. 1 2} M. Lampiada. Meseems that even gentle ladies may have worn flowers for their more homely adornment instead of pearls and gold ; inasmuch as not all our peers have wherewithal to attire them- selves with the gems of the Orient or the sands of Tagus, and so it was need- ful to use the riches of the gardens of our own land. But each one having tried to out-do the others, they seem sometimes as if they had a garland or quintain about the face. And waters and powders were in those days in- vented to remove pimples and moles and other such stains, but to-day they are used to paint and whiten the whole face, just as lime and plaster cover the face of a wall ; and peradventure those foolish maids believe that men, whom they seek to please, do not discern this foulness, which 1 would have them to know wears them out and makes them grow old before their time, and destroys 124 0F THE BEAUTY of women. their teeth, while they seem to be wearing a mask all the year through. Look now at Mona Bettola Gagliani ; what do you think of her? The more she paints and the more she dresses up the older she seems ; nay, she is like a gold ducat that hath lain in aqua-fortis. And it would not be thus if she had not used washes so much when she was young. I, for my part, if I am still well preserved (which indeed I know not, but it shall suffice that others say so) it is from no cause but that water from the well has ever been my wash, and shall be that of my daughter so long as she tarries with me ; afterwards, it must be her husband’s care. But tell us, 1 entreat, the reason of wearing flowers, since I indeed have wandered far from home ; yet forgive me, for the hatred I have to these plastered faces. Celso. It must be known to you that OF THE BEAUTY OF WOMEN. 1 2} in general folks sleep rather on the right temple than on the left ; whence it comes that this side, being more pressed and crushed than the other, is more hollow ; as we see that in men the beard, for the same reason, is less thick on the right side than on the left. And therefore, desiring to raise the hollowed part some- what by a little art, gentle ladies were wont to place over it some few flowers, but small ones, which should stand out and raise it a little, yet in such a way as not to make the other side seem too small. And these were of two kinds, but of the same colour, and helped rather than took away from the fresh- ness of the vermilion cheeks and the fairness of the whole face ; this was blue, and they chose certain flowers called hood flowers(chicory), besides blue cornflowers, which had this name by reason of their use. Inasmuch as you must have heard tell that ladies of yore \l6 OF THE BEAUTY OF WOMEN. wore on their heads certain headgear which were called hoods, and whereas these flowers were worn under these hoods they were called hood-flowers ( capucci ), and these served to fill up the hollowed temple of which I spoke! The cornflower, indeed, since it hath a longer stem and stuck out farther towards the face, was called “ flower of the face,” as being seemly to adorn the face withal. And again they were wont to use violets, which for the short time they endure and for their colour and size resemble those other flowers ; and they were called viole mammole, as who should say bosom violets. Politian indeed calls them mammolette verginelle, as meaning that they are flowers or violets for virgin bosoms. Those flowers which, for their odour, many call clove-pinks, and roses, and other larger, strongly-smelling flowers they were fain to carry in the hand ; OF THE BEAUTY OF WOMEN. 1 27 and to the end that their too fiery redness should not make the natural hue of the rosy face look pale they placed them not by the cheeks, since you know how ill red beseems the carnations of a fair cheek and the flesh generally of you ladies. Nay, and I should wonder that any would ever wear it, if I did not perceive that every- thing is done as chance directs, and that the art of apparel, and of arraying and adorning ladies, is lost. What foolish- ness it is to see a pair of fur cuffs on the tight sleeves of a gown. Is it not plain that this fur puffs out the cuffs, and that the shoulders are lost, and the arm ap- pears crippled ? A fine thing it is to see the figure bereft of all profile about the neck, and without a curve, but straight down ! Is it the arm alone from below the elbow that is cold and therefore wrapped in fur, and not the whole person ? Oh ! what a monstrosity, 128 OF THE BEAUTY OF WOMEN. what a folly, what an ungraceful thing ! and yet it is common, and we see it done by those who find that orange flowers stink . 1 But to return to our flowers, I say that certain foolish maids, without con- sidering the matter too nicely, seeing that these flowers lent so much grace, argued among themselves after the manner of the Sophists : If one little flower lends such grace, what will not a large one do ? And if one or two, what will not ten, or twelve, or a bunch ? And they began to heap them up, as you see, without considering whether the head were wide, the face long, the temples hollow or full. If the wife of Panfilo took my advice perchance she would not wear so many ; for she, having somewhat hollow temples, by 1 A proverbial expression, meaning people who are exceedingly nice and fastidious in their tastes. OF THE BEAUTY OF WOMEN. 1 29 the gilliflowers she places on her cheeks, or it may be even lower, not merely takes all the colour out of her face (and she hath none to sell)> but, by filling out her temples more than she need, makes them seem more hollow than in truth they are. And mark this, when you shall see her, and you will discern if 1 do not tell you the truth, and if 1 know what I am saying. The cheeks again I need not describe, inasmuch as we have the perfect pattern of them in yours, Selvaggia ; and albeit at my words they have gained such a hue that, whereas they lacked not before, they now have too much, I shall take them for my figure of beauty. Nevertheless, to follow the rule I have so far observed, and for your better understanding, I say that the cheeks should be of a softer fairness than the forehead, that is to say less lustrous, and beginning as white as snow, should K 13O OF THE BEAUTY OF WOMEN. where the roundness swells, increase in rosiness in the semblance of a little mound whose summit is crowned with that rosy hue which the sun leaves behind when he quits our hemisphere in fair weather ; and this, you know, is a fair colour shaded with vermilion. We have now to choose the nose, which is the feature of the greatest importance, whether on the face of a man or of a woman ; whereas, as I told you the other day, she who has not a nose of perfect beauty can never appear beautiful in profile. Thus the wife of Sarto de’ Cavagli, who in front is comely to look at, in profile is but an ill-favoured wench, and, gazing at her one morning hearing Mass in the chapel, side by side with Selvaggia, 1 discovered this defect. But to return to the nose, whereof we saw the due proportion the other day and need not repeat it ; yet if either of you forget or was not present, look at OF THE BEAUTY OF WOMEN. 1 3 I that of Verdespina and you will remem- ber, since she, like a second Juno, has a perfect nose. For the nose, beside being of a proper size (to follow out rule), must be narrow rather than wide, and taper from the top to the base which is above the mouth ; and at the tip it should turn up a very little, and stand out as it were in relief, coloured but not red ; with an almost invisible line marking the boundary of the two nostrils, which at first must rise and then softly slope away and finally end, diminishing both on the same line. As to the end of the cartilage, if the more solid part of the nose is a very little raised (not aquiline, which is not gene- rally pleasing in a woman), but like the joint of a finger, this will be the very perfection of a nose. The lower portion, that is to say all of the cartilage, should be of the same colour as the ears, but perchance even less rosy, and yet it K 2 132 OF THE BEAUTY OF WOMEN. must not be too white as if it were cold. And the nostrils should be dry and sharply cut, albeit many have them somewhat moist, especially by the cheeks, and this is not comely ; besides which the Latins had a proverb signify- ing a man of good judgment : est homo emundis naribus, that is to say, a man with dry nostrils. A nose that turns up much is not beautiful, since, besides that it shows a disposition to wrath, it spoils the profile, as may be seen in the wife of the master who teaches the youth at Pistoia, who but for this is a most comely lady. And not less ill- favoured is a nose dropping, as it were, into the mouth ; but that nose is pleasing which is in proportion in all its parts, like yours, indeed, Verdespina, full of every grace and beauty. Now we have come to the mouth, the fountain of all loving sweetness, which should be small rather than large ; and OF THE BEAUTY OF WOMEN. 1 33 it must be neither pouting nor flat ; and when it opens, especially when it opens neither for laughter nor speech, it should not show more than five or six teeth, and those the upper teeth. The lips are not to be too thin, neither very thick, but their vermilion must show distinctly against the rosy hue about them. And when the mouth is closed the lips must meet in such wise that the lower pro- jects no more than the upper, nor the upper than the lower ; and at the corners they must diminish so as to form an obtuse angle ; like this, and not an acute angle, nor like the chin. It is very true that if the lower lip swells a little more than the upper, and 134 OF THE beauty of women. yet more so when the mouth opens, with a certain dimple which seems to divide it as it were into two parts, this little fulness gives much grace to the whole mouth. Between the upper lip and the median line of the nose there must likewise be a certain mark like a little furrow, somewhat hollow and sown with pale roses. Closing the mouth sometimes with a tender air and a certain grace of the right side of the face, while the left side of the mouth parts as with a stolen smile ; or biting the lower lip, not with affectation but as if through inadver- tence, so as not to seem childish nor wanton, and but rarely, with a lan- guishing sweetness and a little modest witchery ; and again, with a certain movement of the eyes which now gaze fixedly before them and anon down on the ground, are gracious things, arts which open or, so to speak, unbar the OF THE BEAUTY OF WOMEN. 1 3 5 garden of delights, and bathe in unutter- able sweetness the soul of him who is gazing with desire. But all this is of little avail if the beauty of the teeth do not correspond ; and they should be small, but not too small, square, equal, parted by regular distances, and above all as white as ivory. And the gums should seem borders of rose-red satin rather than crimson velvet, round, close and clinging. The tip of the tongue, if peradven- ture it should be seen, which befalls but seldom, will lend beauty while giving desire and consolation, if it be red like scarlet, small, but neither pointed nor square. And Madonna Lampiada has perfect beauty of the whole mouth such as I would have it ; Selvaggia hath indeed marvellously sweet lips, and Madonna Amororrisca fine teeth, and Verdespina such perfect gums and 136 OF THE BEAUTY OF WOMEN. tongue, that from you four we may make the fairest mouth that ever was, not merely painted, but imagined ; so each of you lend me her share for the portrait of my chimasra of beauty. And the chin I will have from you, Verdespina, since among all I see, and all most fair, yours seems to me the most perfect, inasmuch as it doth not curve up nor is it sharp, but round, and tinged at the boss with a tender rose, and faintly red from the under lip where it ends, to the lower part where it begins, but with great softness, more easily to be seen by considering the chin than to be expressed in words ; and from the lower part, as it ascends towards the lower lip, half of it should lose rather than gain in colour. Thence following its pleasing passage towards the lip, it is its proper and particular beauty to form a little dimple at each corner, as hath been said in our former discourse. OF THE BEAUTY OF WOMEN. 1 37 And this Vallera shows that he knew well when singing of the beauties of his Mistress, where he says: “My Nencia hath a dimple in her chin which lendeth beauty to her whole face ” ; and so like- wise the peasant folk, who are full of natural good judgment, recognize it as the perfection of beauty. If the chin slope away beneath to the throat and join it with a slight fulness it adds greatly to the general beauty of the person, and in those who are fat it is a chief adornment, and a fair addition to the graces of the throat. The throat must be long, slender, fair and without a spot ; and in turning, now hither and now thither, it makes certain curves which show first one and then the other of the two cartilages which inclose the vital vessels, with a grace which it is a sweet joy to con- template but hard to describe. In bending down it should make circular I38 OF THE BEAUTY OF WOMEN. furrows, in shape like a necklace, which surround it ; and in straightening again it must be smooth and fair, as it were that of the wooing dove, whose neck is of gold and purple. The throat is most pleasing when its skin is most delicate, when it is slender and long rather than short, showing where it joins the bosom a little valley full of snows ; but above, where it meets the chin, a very little swell, yet not such as men have where they seem to have retained the apple of ill-advised Adam. And inasmuch as I have here described it, word for word, from the ensample of the fair Selvaggia, you shall not marvel if for a while I have gazed so intently on her. Thus we will take her throat as of passing beauty among so many that I have ever seen, and add it to our picture ; and that will be of much more effect than I have known how to give with the rude pencil of my words. OF THE BEAUTY OF WOMEN. I }<) And descending from the neck to the shoulders, we will say that when they are somewhat square, like yours, Ma- donna Amororrisca, with a gentle slope, and are broad (for to be narrow mars them), they are in true perfection. The back of the neck should be white but slightly rosy, and if not quite flat, at least the shoulders must not be round nor tend in the very least to a hump ; and the hollow which runs from the nape of the neck down towards the loins is not to be over-deep, lest that deformity should make the shoulders appear over- fat, and the shaping of the bodice will be too high, which is uncomely to the eye. And whereas this part is most shapely in Selvaggia and in Madonna Amororrisca, we will take the neck from Selvaggia and the shoulders from you. And studying these ladies, we will say that they should swell a little from the base of the throat, to where the arms 140 OF THE BEAUTY OF WOMEN. begin, as giving rise to them, somewhat after the fashion of an ancient vase from the hand of a good master, and thence, with a not too sudden descent join the arms, and make a support, as it were, to hold up the bodice of the garments lest they should fall ; and in this respect again Madonna Amororrisca is most shapely. Selvaggia. Well-beloved Messer Celso, I beseech you expound to us how you would have the shoulders and arms formed after the fashion of an antique vase ; since the preachers are wont to teach us poor women by examples, to make us the better able to comprehend them, as is needful for gross wits. Celso. It is 1 who should be gross of wit if I held yours to be gross, as though I could lend subtlety to you, who make ours seem grosser than we could wish. But if you crave an example, where shall you find one fairer or more true OF THE BEAUTY OF WOMEN. 141 than that of Madonna Lampiada, who is not alone a vase, but a safe casket of all the virtues which may adorn the spirit of a gentle lady ; yet you may answer me that you seek an ancient and not a modern vase as she is, and I will satisfy you. Here is a drawing of it on this plate. You see that the handles at first rise somewhat and then gently curve down- wards as the arms should do. But from an antique vase (since we have come to draw- ing) I will show you how the throat has its rise from the bosom and back of the neck and shoul- ders, and how the bust rises from the loins, which I believe will not displease you ; nay, it will seem to you that either Nature hath imitated art, or that the art of beauty in you ladies hath been 142 OF THE BEAUTY OF WOMEN. derived from those shapely vases. First 1 will discourse of the beauty of the bosom. The bosom must above all else be white. But why waste time? The bosom must be in all conditions like that of Selvaggia. Look at hers and you shall see every perfection of pro- portion, every grace, every allurement, every charm, in short every beauty. Here are violets at every season, here are roses in January and here snow in August ; here dwell the Charites and the Loves ; here are witcheries, blandish- ments and charms ; here is Venus with all her train, all her celestial gifts, her zone, her veil, her tresses, her knots, in short all her pomp. And not only is nothing lacking ; here is more than desire can hope, than the brain can apprehend, the tongue express, the imagination picture ; hence I forbear to waste more words, and for my part I do not believe that Helen, nor Venus OF THE BEAUTY OF WOMEN. 14 } the Goddess of Beauty, had a fairer or more admirable bosom. Selvaggia. Away with this. Tell us how it should be formed, as you have been wont with other parts, since I would not that by thus feigning to do me such honour, or peradventure to mock me, you should leave us lacking a description of one of the most im- portant features, in my humble judg- ment, which go to the making of a fair woman. Celso. At least you will excuse me, since I should fail to say anything which is not very far behind the most beautiful and most ravishing example of yours. Selvaggia. Granting that you speak the truth, I nevertheless entreat you to declare its beauties, at least for my sake, who cannot see myself. Celso. If only you suffered others to see it! Well then, since I am your prisoner I must need do your bidding. 144 0F THE beauty of women. Yet will 1 treat the matter briefly, both for what I have now said, and for that in our last discourse we spoke of it at length. I will say then that the bosom is beautiful when, besides its breadth, which is its chief grace, it is full so that no sign of the bones is seen, and rising softly from the sides swells so gently that the eye can scarce follow it; of a perfect fairness tinged with roses ; and the fresh full breasts heaving as though they were ill at ease from being op- pressed and confined by the raiment, seem eager to be free from prison, rising with a vehemence and energy which compels every eye to gaze at them lest they escape. And you ladies say that they must be well set on, and you admire them small, and yet not so small as to be like the rosettes of the guitar, as a friend of yours said, Madonna Selvaggia, which Davitte carried at the festa of San Felice. OF THE BEAUTY OF WOMEN. 1 45 And now having done the pleasure of Selvaggia, who has not done me the pleasure of a single glance, I will, as 1 promised, show you, by the pattern of an ancient vase, how the waist or the bust rises above the hips, and the throat above the bosom and shoulders. Hearken, therefore, and note well these vases. Behold how the neck of the first vase rises from the shoulders, and how much grace the slenderness of the neck gives ' to the body of the vase in return for that it receives from it, and how graceful and tall the curvature makes it. Now con- 146 OF THE BEAUTY OF WOMEN. sider the second, and note the neck rising from the body of the vase, which is as the bust of a woman rising from her hips ; and the more breadth we find in the hips the more slender and graceful doth the bust appear and the less doth it need to be tightly girt, as we see in the first as concerning the shoulders and the neck. But it is not so in the shape of the third, which, as you may discern, has neither grace nor beauty. And like the first are those ladies who have a long and slender throat and broad comely shoulders ; like the second are those who have fine hips, which are the chief beauty of women who are beautiful when unclothed, and who have a slender, elegant, and well-proportioned bust; like the third are certain lean scarecrows without shape or grace ; and like the fourth are those who were made with a stint of material and left unfinished and botched, wrought with the hatchet. OF THE BEAUTY OF WOMEN. 1 47 without file or chisel. From these examples you may discern that the hips must be very large and the bust rise from them shapely and slender ; and that the shoulders and neck must be the same. And albeit these parts may be improved by padding and by hoops — in a word by the tailor’s arts, nevertheless when Art is not aided by Nature it can do little ; and that little is unsuccessful, and few are they who do not discern it. It is the same with those who strive to look taller by the help of their shoes, which all men can see save only their husband when he goes to bed. And so, to conclude, 1 will say that Nature is the mistress of beauty, and Art is her handmaid ; for our pattern we will take the rounded hips of Madonna Amoror- risca, and proceed to the legs. Selvaggia shall lend us her leg; long, slender and shapely in the lower portion, but with calves as large as they need be. 148 OF THE BEAUTY OF WOMEN. as white as snow, oval as they should be ; with the shins not too bare of flesh, and the bones visible but well-covered, so that the leg is not over thick. And the heels must not be too high nor yet so flat that they may not be seen. The foot, to please us, must be slender but not bony, and spring neatly from the ankle. Homer saith of Thetis that she is silvery footed ; 1 say it should be white like alabaster when it is seen bare ; but I am content to see it covered with a thin, narrow and elegant shoe, skilfully cut in the right fashion, that is to say some- what long in the foot, the slashes across it in the width, as to their direction, straight and small, according to some pattern and device, and ever in new fashions ; the slipper should be short, low and shapely ; but Io! lam usurping the office of that worthy simpleton, Madonna Rafaella. And you, Selvaggia, OF THE BEAUTY OF WOMEN. 1 49 shall give us your most dainty foot for our Chimera. And since we have shown the perfection of a fair lady from the beauties of you four as examples, I would now, for her greater accomplish- ment, bestow upon her grace and charm and all other qualities which beseem the complete perfection of consummate beauty, as we declared it on a former occasion ; and I will then have done, since it is high time. And now tell me truly doth it not seem to you that this our image has come forth in our imagination fairer from you four ladies than Zeuxis’ Helen from the five maidens of Crotona? This is a most strong proof that we in Prato to-day have much fairer ladies than they had in Greece of old. Verde spina. And how can this be when she has neither arms nor hands ? Think how these should be, else is the image which stands at the foot of the 150 OF THE BEAUTY OF WOMEN. stairs in the Court of Justice at Prato, more beautiful than yours since, albeit she hath not arms, she hath instead an iron bar and can hold an iron mace. Celso. You are in the right, fair damsel. Wretch that I am, and what have I done? Behold what I had for- gotten. But Selvaggia was the cause, who never doth me aught but mischief ; since if she had been content that her fair bosom should serve for our image 1 should not thus have erred. Meanwhile 1 will proceed whither Verdespina has bidden me. Selvaggia. According to Messer Celso then I am ever the rock of offence ! I shall indeed begin now to believe that you love me not. Hereupon a certain old woman who had come to bring I know not which of these damsels home, on a sudden cried out: Marry, my lady, what are you saying? Do you not perceive that he OF THE BEAUTY OF WOMEN. I 5 1 is jesting with you, simple maid? If my master loved me half as well, should I have to go barefoot all winter for lack of a pair of wooden shoes ? Whereat the whole party began to laugh and the old dame betook her to her kitchen again. Then Celso, when they had ceased from laughing, went on, saying: Sel- vaggia, I cannot deny that the old woman spoke truly ; but — Selvaggia. There is that ‘ but ’ which mars everything. But in Heaven’s name though I be not such a beauty as that nought can improve me, at least I am not such as your fair one, who hath taken two days in the making, and hath neither arms nor hands, comely as she may be ; I at least have them, such as they are, by God’s grace ! Celso. You will not have them long, for since you are so wrath, for the love I bear you I will take them from you. 152 OF THE BEAUTY OF WOMEN. and place them on my image. If she had no more than your bosom and many other things she has had from you she would be passing fair ; and so whether you will or no we will take your arms. Since they are of that beautifully proportioned length which we set forth the other day in the squaring of the human figure. And besides this they are very white, with a shade of carnation on the raised parts ; and fleshy and muscular, yet with a certain softness, so that they do not seem the arms of Hercules wrestling with Cacus, but those of Pallas when she stood before the Greek shepherd. They are full of a natural moisture which gives them a certain vigour and freshness that generates firmness, so that if the flesh is pressed with a finger, on a sudden it turns white where it is touched, but when the finger is raised the flesh rises again, and the whiteness OF THE BEAUTY OF WOMEN. I 53 vanishes, giving place to the carnation which reappears. The hand, which all declare to be perfect in you (to you I say it, Sel- vaggia, so hide it not), must likewise be white chiefly on the outer side, large enough and somewhat fat, the palm hollow and tinted with rose ; the lines must be clear, few, distinct, firmly drawn, not crossing nor entangled ; the mounts of Jupiter, Venus and Mercury plainly to be seen, yet not over high ; the line of the intellect and wit should be deep and clear and crossed by no other. The hollow that lies between the thumb and middle finger must be shapely, without wrinkles and brightly tinted. The fingers are beautiful when they are long, fine and slender, tapering somewhat towards the tip, yet so little as to be scarce perceptible. The nails transparent, like pale rubies among pink roses and the leaves of the pomegranate 154' of THE beauty of women. flower, not long, not round nor alto- gether square, but of a fair shape and with a very little boss, uncovered, clean and well-kept so that at the base the little white crescent is visible. Above, beyond the flesh of the finger, an edge should be seen, as wide as a small knife is thick, without the smallest suspicion of a rim of black at the tip. And the whole hand must be of a tender, firm surface, as though it were of fine silk or the softest cotton. And this is all it occurs to me to say of the arms and hands. Now this image will no longer be like that in the piazza; but behold the thing she was compared with ! You are indeed one of those sharp thorns which get in between the nail and the flesh, and if green of the harder heart ; and it is well for me that I have a good needle to withdraw it withal. Selvaggia. Now, meseems, your pic- ture is like those which are wrought by OF THE BEAUTY OF WOMEN. I 55 the hand of a good master ; and to tell the truth it is a most beautiful thing, so that if I were a man, whereas I am a woman, I should be constrained, like a second Pygmalion, to fall in love with her. And do not think that I call her beautiful only to signify that the parts which we have given her are the occa- sion of it, seeing that the adornments and graces you have bestowed on her might have made even the wife of Jacopo Cavallaccio seem fair. Since I (to speak only of myself), if I had so fair a bosom as you have described, should not yield to Helen nor Venus for beauty. Celso. You have it indeed and you know it ; there is no need to make so many words about it. Good luck to you and to him who may some day be worthy to behold it. And of a truth when that friend of mine composed a fine Elegy in its praise, having so fine a 156 OF THE BEAUTY OF WOMEN. thread, it was no great marvel that he filled so fair a cloth. But to give our Chimera the crowning perfection that nothing may be lacking to her, you, Madonna Lampiada, will give her that witchery which sparkles in your eyes and that fine air which pervades the perfect proportion of your person ; you, Madonna Amororrisca, will give her the queenly majesty of your person and the cheerfulness of your honest and modest gaze, that serious gait, that dignified countenance and that gentle gracious- ness which delight all who behold them. Selvaggia will lend her a calm seemli- ness, an inviting charm, an honest yet bewitching, a severe yet sweet attrac- tiveness, with that pitying cruelty which all are constrained to praise albeit none desire it. You, Verdespina, shall bestow the grace which makes you so dear; that readiness and sweetness of gay speech, subtle, honest and gracious. OF THE BEAUTY OF WOMEN. I 57 Wit and the other gifts and virtues of the mind we do not need, inasmuch as we have described only the beauties of the body and not those of the spirit, for which a better painter than I am is needed, better colours and a better brush than those of my poor wit, albeit your en- sample is no less sufficient for that kind of beauty than for the other. And thus, without more words, their discourse ended, and each one returned to his own home. THE END. SUMMARY OF A DIALOGUE OF THE BEAUTY OF WOMEN, BY GNOLO FIRENZUOLA, FLORENTINE SUMMARY OF DIALOGUE ERTAIN Over- subtle Brains The Nature of the Dialogue He who offends a woman is as a brute. And doeth not the act of a Man Think well and you will be will thought of An Humble Plea 1 62 SUMMARY. Clement VII. VI Catherina Cibo , Duchess of Camerino VI Giovio VII Marcus Tullius VII Of the Humility of Ladies VII He who loves will never cease to love nor ever forget her whom he loves IX The author speaks jestingly of his age X What is said XI A Proverb XI The author defendeth himself XII Of Slanderers XIII SUMMARY. I63 A Familiar Style and not that of Petrarca and Boc- caccio XIV. A Shamefaced Man XV. A Proverb XVII. The Abbey of Grignano XVIII. She is Fair who can Please XX. Beauty Charmeth All XXI. The Beauty Venus Slandered by Momus XXI. Flelcn evil spoken of XXII. Of Fair Women XXII. Of Beauty XXII. Beauty the very Nest of Love XXIII. Of its Effects XXIII. M 2 164 SUMMARY. Of what Beauty is and wherein it consisteth (Marcus Tullius Cicero) XXVI. Masks, and who should wear them XXVII. Alberto de’ Bardi XXVII. Plato, his definition of Beauty XXVIII. Of a Finger XXVIII. Distinctions in this Dialogue XXIX. Homer XXX. Zeuxis, and how he painted Helen XXX. Lucian XXX. Giorgio Trissino XXX. Cicero XXXI. SUMMARY. 165 Aristotle xxxi. Marsilio Ficino xxxi. Dante xxxi. Of Beauty , what it is xxxii. A Figure of Speech xxxii. The Qualities wherein we seek Beauty xxxm. Beauty is the Union of Di- verse things xxxm. Of Colour and how it is made perfect xxxiv. Alexander the Great xxxv. Of the Cheek xxxv. Of the Bosom xxxv. Of Knowledge xxxvii. SUMMARY. 1 66 Of Modesty XXXVII. Aristophanes XXXVII. Beinbo XXXVIII. The fable of Jove and the Creation of Man XXXVIII. Mercury the Sawyer XXXIX. Esculapius the Leech XXXIX. Laodamia Forteguerra XL. Margaret of Austria XLI. Alcestis and Admetus XLI. Orpheus and Euridice XLII. Gracchus and Cornelia XLI I. Secret Love XLIII. SUMMARY. l 67 Chaste Love XLIV. Delight, and wherein it consisieth XLVI. The Rays of Love XLVI. Beauty dwelleth in Woman XLVII. Petrarca, and what he said XLIX. A Comparison XLIX. Just Wrath L. Women are as Ingenious and as Apt as Men LI. A Noteworthy Saying LII. Reciprocal Love, how and whereof it cometh LIU. That our Stature is Upright, and to what end LIV. 1 68 SUMMARY. Of the Form of Man’s Stature LV. The Measure of the Well proportioned Stature of a Man or of a Woman LV. Of the Head , and how it should be drawn LV1I. A Proverb LIX. Of Roundness LXIV. Of the Pupil of the Eye LXV. Of Vision LXVI. The Brows a Shelter for the Eyes LXVI. Of Keenness of Sight LXVII. Of the Nose and its place LXVII. Of the Cheeks LXVII. SUMMARY. 169 O f the Nose and its condi- tions and important qualities LXVII. Of the Mouth and its func- tions LXVIII. Of Kisses LXVIII. Of the Teeth and their praises LXIX. Of the Good Qualities of Laughter LXIX. Laughter is seemly in beauty LXX. Of Seemly Laughter LXXI. Of the Gums LXXI. The Chin hath its beauty LXXII. Of the Ears and how they are made LXXII. Of the Passage of the Ear, and its uses LXXIV. 1 70 SUMMARY. Of the Throat and its grace LXXV. Of the Arms and Hands, and their importance LXXVI . Of the Bosom and that it is a hill of loveliness LXXV I. Of the Legs LXXVII. The Knees LXXVI I. Of the Foot, the base of the whole body LXXVIII. That the Foot is like unto a Pillow LXXVIII. Of fine Hair adding to beauty LXXIX. That the Hairs are hollow tubes LXXX. Apuleius LXXX. SUMMARY. 171 A Charm, and wherein it consists LXXX. In Praise of a Certain Lady LXXXI. Qiiadrahianca Buonvisa LXXXIII. The Graces attendant on Venus LXXXI V. Aglaia LXXXIV. The Praises of Grace LXXXI V. Witchery, that is Grace LXXX V . Of Wantonness, and what it is LXXXVI. Cicero, and what he said of Seemliness LXXXIX. Dignity in a Man is as Seemliness in a Woman XG. Seemliness (or venusta) and its meaning XG. I 7 2 SUMMARY. The Ear of the Intellect XCI. A Proverb XCI. Of a bad Countenance, or Air XCII. Aristotle XCIII. Of Habits XCIII. Of wherein an Air or Ex- pression resides XCIV. Of Majesty, and wherein it consisted) xcv. Praises of the Contessa da Hernia xcv. Of the Chimera, and what it is XCVI. That Nature is miserly CII. SUMMARY. 173 Of Nature, and how Poets have figured her ClI. Of the Breast, and its Use and Significance cm. Of Women, and How Few are Found of Perfect Beauty cm. Fair Yellow cv. Tawny cv. Black cv. Red CVI. Vermilion CVI. Carnation CVI. Of the Meaning of Imbal- conate CVI. Of the Hair cvn. 174 SUMMARY. Of Apuleius, and what he saith CVIIU Venus, and her Beauty CVIII. The Apple of Beauty CIX. Dion, a Greek, who highly esteemed fine hair CIX. Lacedaemonians cx. Of Achilles and his beauty cx. A fair woman without hair is not fair cx. Of the simplicity of a certain man CXII. Of a Proper Stature in Woman CXII. Of the Qualities of the Person CXIII. Of a Gracious Lady and her beauty CXIII. SUMMARY. 175 Of the Shape of the Forehead — Serene — What it is like cxv. Of the Eyebrows cxvn. Of the Eye and what its hue should he CXVIII. Of its Colour, a dark nut brown CXVIII. Of Juno, and how her Eyes were shaped CXIX. Of the Eyelids CXIX. Of the Ears, and their colour cxx. Of the Temples CXXI. Of Dressing the Hair CXXI. The Origin of wearing Flowers CXXII. Flowers to serve instead of Jewels CXXIII. SUMMARY. 176 That Painting and Washes make one grow old CXXIII. The True Cosmetic CXXIV. Of Sleeping on the Right Side, and its effects cxxv. Of the Sophistry of Ladies, and how they show it CXXVIII. Of the Cheeks CXXIX. Of the Nose, and its perfec- tion cxxx. Of the Mouth CXXXII. Of the Lips and their Shape CXXXIII. How the Lips should Close CXXXllI. Of the Beauty of the Teeth cxxxv. Of the Chin and its Form CXXXVI. SUMMARY. 177 A Dimple in the Chin is a beauty CXXXVI. Of the Throat , and its acts and effects cxxxvn. Of the Beauty of the Throat CXXXVIII. The Shoulders CXXXIX. Of the Back of the Neck CXXXIX. Of the Arms CXL. A Similitude CXL. The Praise of the Bosom CXLII. Of the Beauty of the Bosom CXLIV. Of the Bust CXLV. Of the Girdle CXLVI. Of the Hips CXLVI. N 1 78 SUMMARY. Of the Hips and Bust CXLVI. Of the Leg CXLVII. Of the Foot CXLVI II. Of the Shoe CXLVIII. Of the Slipper CXLVIII. The ladies of Prato fairer than those of Crotona CXLIX. Of the Arms, and their beauty CLII. Of the Hand, and what maketh its beauty CLIIL Of the Beauty of the Fingers CLIIL Of the Nails CLIIL Pygmalion CLV. Of the Qualities a fair woman should possess CLVL 1% LONDON! PRINTED BY GILBERT AND RIVINGTON, LD,, ST. JOHN’S HOUSE, CLERKENWELL- ROAD, E.C. '