/ THE VcPSJ- t$tov£ antr ®ratrttton$ LAND OF THE LINDSAYS IN ANGUS AND MEARNS, WITH NOTICES OF ALYTH AND MEIGLE. BY ANDREW JERYISE. TO WHICH IS ADDED AN APPENDIX CONTAINING EXTRACTS FROM AN OLD RENTAL BOOK OF EDZELL AND LETHNOT ; NOTICES OF THE RAVAGES OF THE MARQUIS OF MONTROSE IN ANGUS-SHIRE, AND OTHER INTERESTING DOCUMENTS. EDINBURGH: SUTHERLAND & KNOX, GEORGE STREET. 1853. ABERDEEN : J'KINTED BY JOHN AVER Y. I,' N ION S T R E E T. TO T11E RIGHT HONOURABLE ALEXANDER-WILLIAM-CRAWFORD, LORD LINDSAY, HEJR APPARENT TO THE EARLDOMS OP CRAWFORD AND BALCARRES, AND TO THE BARONIES OF LINDSAY, WIGAN, &C. &(!., AUTHOR OF LIVES OF THE LINDSAYS, AND OTHER VALUABLE WORKS, Volume, ILLUSTRATIVE OF THE INTERESTING HISTORY AND TRADITIONS OF THE ESTATES WHICH WERE SO LONG POSSESSED BY HIS NOBLE ANCESTORS, IN THE COUNTIES OF ANGUS AND MEARNS, IS, BY PERMISSION, MOST RESPECTFULLY INSCRIBED. PEEFACE. It may be proper to remark that this volume is the first which the Author has published—a fact which will perhaps account for its numerous defects in composition and arrangement. The Writer has devoted much of his leisure to the study of the history and antiquities of his native district—has felt the greatest pleasure'.in doing so—and has occasionally published scraps on the subject in provincial newspapers. These notices (which were all very defective) related chiefly to churchyard matters, and to descriptions of remarkable antiquarian and historical peculiari¬ ties. In course of time, these not only gained provincial favour, and the good opinion of several gentlemen of literary note at a distance, but were so far useful, from the fact, that greater care has been shewn for antiquarian relics since their publication, and a marked improvement has taken place in the mode of keeping many of the churchyards and tombstones in the district.* The present volume owes its origin to the general interest which one of these papers created at the time; and from the kindness and courtesy of the Right Hon. Lord Lindsay, who was pleased to remark, in reference to the notice referred to,—" I wish your account of Glenesk had been published in time to have enabled me to avail myself of it in the ' Lives.'" No apology is necessary, it is presumed, for the title of this volume. The Lands, of which it is intended to preserve the History and Traditions, have been purposely selected, and were, at one time or other, under the sway of the powerful family of Lindsay-Crawford. Glenesk was the birth-place of the first Earl * From the favour with which these notices were received, the Author purposes, at some after period, to publish them in an enlarged and improved shape. VI F RE FACE. —Finhaven and Edzell were the cherished abodes of the family so long as its power survived; and its various members were proprietors of important portions of the Mearns from a remote to a late period. Although these estates have long since passed to other hands, and the family is merely represented in its fatherland by a collateral branch, it is pleasing to know that the ancient title is still enjoyed by a lineal descendant of the original stock, whose son and heir-apparent is the impartial and elegant biographer of his illustrious progenitors. Though traditions of the Lindsays are not so plentiful in the district as they were of old, when the hills and dales and running brooks were less or more associated with stories of their daring and valour—enough remains to shew the almost unlimited sway which the family maintained over the greater portion of Angus, and a large part of Mearns-shire. Like the doings of other families of antiquity, those of the Lindsays are mixed with the fables of an illiterate age; and, though few redeem¬ ing qualities of the race are preserved in tradition, popular story ascribes cruel and heartless actions to many of them. Still, extravagant as some of these stories are, they have not been omitted, any more than those relating to other persons and families who fall within the scope of this volume; and, where such can be refuted, either by reference to documentary or other substantial authority, the opportunity has not been lost sight of. The way in which erroneous ideas have been reiterated re¬ garding old families, and the transmission of their properties, &c., has led to much confusion, the sad evils of which are most apparent to those who attempt to frame a work of such a nature as the present. From the Author's desire to correct these errors, the book will, perhaps, have more claim to the title of a collection of facts regarding the history and antiquities of the Land of the Lindsays than to a work of originality and merit, and may, therefore, be less popular in its style than most readers P R E F A 0 E . Vll would desire; but this, it is hoped, lias been so far obviated by the introduction of snatches regarding popular superstitions, and a sprinkling of anecdote. Due advantage has been taken of the most authentic works which bear on the history of the district, for the use of the greater part of which, and for a vast deal of valuable information, the Writer is particularly indebted to the kindness of Patrick Chalmers, Esq., of Aldbar. He is also under deep obligation to the Right Hon. Lord Lindsay, not only for many important particulars which he has been pleased to com¬ municate regarding his family history, but for the great interest he has taken in otherwise advancing the work. In notices of pre-historic remains, the lover of antiquity may find the volume rather meagre. This, the Writer is sorry to remark, has arisen, in a great measure, from the penchant which most discoverers have of breaking any valuable relics with which they meet. For, although a change for the better has recently taken place in the mind of the general public regard¬ ing antiquities, the peasantry, into whose hands those treasures are most likely to fall, have still a sadly mistaken view of their value; and, in the vain hope of being enriched by the supposed wealth of their contents, they not infrequently de¬ prive themselves of remuneration altogether, but, in destroy¬ ing pieces of pottery-ware, metals, and similar articles, tear so many leaves—so to speak—from the only volume which belongs to the remote and unlettered past, and thus place the attainment of some important particular regarding the history of our forefathers—perhaps for ever—beyond the reach of en¬ quiry. The baneful law of treasure trove has much to account for on this score; but, there is reason to believe, that the evil might be so far modified, through an express understanding between landlords and tenants, and tenants and servants. The Appendix will be found to contain many interesting and hitherto unpublished papers, particularly those illustrative of Vlll PREFACE. tlie ravages of tlie Marquis of Montrose and liis soldiers in cer¬ tain parts of Angus. The old Rental Book of Edzell and Leth- not, from which copious extracts have been taken, was lately rescued from total destruction in a farm "bothie" in Lethnot. Though a mere fragment, the portion preserved is important, not only from its shewing the value and nature of the holdings of the period, but from its handing down the names of many families who are still represented in the district. In thanking his numerous friends and subscribers for their kind support, the Author feels that some apology is necessary for the delay which has occurred in the publication. This has arisen from two causes—mainly from a protracted indisposition with which the Writer was seized soon after advertising the volume; and, partly, from including in it the history of the minor Lindsay properties in Angus, and of those in Mearns, &c. —an object which was not originally contemplated. From the latter cause the volume has necessarily swelled far beyond the limits at first proposed; still, the Author does not feel himself justified in increasing the price to subscribers, but the few re¬ maining copies of the impression will be sold to non-subscribers at a slight advance. He begs also to express his deep obliga¬ tion to those who took charge of subscription lists, and so disin¬ terestedly and successfully exerted themselves in getting these filled up, as well as to various Session-Clerks, and numerous Correspondents, for their kindness in forwarding his enquiries. ANDREW JERVISE. Brechin, August, 1853. LAND OF THE LINDSAYS. CHAPTER I. 3Sir*eil. " My travels are at liome ; >li 3 3 3 # And oft in spots with ruins o'erspread, Like Lysons, use the antiquarian spade." SECTION I. The name of this parish, in old times, had a different ortho¬ graphy from that now in use. At the beginning of the thirteenth century it was written " Edale," and " Adel" in the ancient Taxatio, which was rated at a subsequent period.* In both cases the word may he considered as essentially the same, signifying "plain or meadow" ground, and quite descriptive of the most valuable half of the parish, or that part which lies without the boundary of Glenesk. In Rolt's Life of John, the twentieth Earl of Crawford, it is written " EdgehiH," and so pronounced at this day, by some old people, and believed by many to be the true etymon, from the fact that the great bulk of the arable land lies from the edge of the hill southward.")" In all documents posterior to the date of the two first, however, the orthography differs little from the present, and according to the late venerable Minister, implies " the cleft or dividing of the waters,"—a rendering which is also favoured by the physical aspect of the parish, in so far as it is bounded on the south and west by the West Water, and on the east by the North Esk, both of which rivers unite at the south-east extremity. S: Registrum da Aberbrothoc.—Bannatyne Club, Edin. 1818, pp. 7 48, 240. t Perhaps the present spelling arose from s being often used for g in old writings. b 2 LAND OF THE LINDSAYS. Etymologies at best are matter of conjecture, and although, in many cases, conclusions are arrived at with much apparent reason, they are constantly subjects of doubt, arising from the obvious fact, that inferences are too often drawn from the corrupted forms now in use, instead of from the original and more ancient. It is agreed on all hands that modern names are far from improvements on the originals, which are ever descriptive of the situation, or other physical pecu¬ liarities of the soil; and, what is perhaps still more valuable, they occasionally furnish a key to the status and particular nature of the holdings and occupations of the tenants of the remote past. In the neighbourhood of the site of the old Castle of Dalbog, for instance, we have the " Serjan' Hill," or the place where the old serjeant of the barony resided; while the " temple lands" scattered over almost every part of Scotland imply, not, as popularly believed, that the places were the sites of temples in early times, but that the lands were held first under the superiority of the old fraternity of Knights Templars, and afterwards under those of St. John of Jerusalem, the latter of whom flourished in Scotland until the first Reformation. In like manner, the "kiln" and " sheeling" hills, shew the places where corn wTas dried and unhusked prior to the introduction of ma¬ chinery; and " the sucken lands," are still well known in some districts, though few, in comparison to the number of places so called in more ancient times, and indicate that certain payments in kind were made from them, to meal and barley millers, even in later ages than those previously alluded to. It must, therefore, be matter of regret that these important aids to ancient history and the manners of our forefathers are so generally beyond our reach, and that so little attention lias been paid to their preservation; for even when found mentioned in family charters and national records, the exact locality of a ^ ast number of them are altogether unknown, either from their utter extinction, or the orthographical change which the names have undergone. It is from a belief that etymons ought to be drawn from the oldest spellings, that a preference is here given to the meaning implied by Edale or Adel, as will be given throughout the volume, to that implied by the most ancient forms of orthography, so far as can be ascertained. EDZELL—BELL OP ST. LAWKENCE. 3 In the times of Romanism, the Church of Edzell was attached to the Archiepiscopal see of St. Andrews, and rated at the small sum of twelve marks. It was also one of several de¬ pendencies whose revenues were appropriated for the repair of the parent Cathedral after its conflagration in Bishop Landel's time ;* but oddly enough, no mention is made of it in the Register of Ministers for 1567, although in that of the Readers for 1572, an Andro Spens appears to have held the important office of " exhorter," with the trifling annual stipend of about thirteen shillings and fourpence sterling.! Like other districts which have never been dignified as the seat of a Cathedral, Abbey, or Priory, the ecclesiastical history of Edzell is meagre and uninteresting; and in these circumstances we are compelled, like the drowning man, to grasp even at a straw, if we think it can afford any advantage. Still, we have great fears that our aims may be frustrated. Be that as it may, the earliest parson of whom any trace exists bore the name of Elwyno, and had been, doubtless, a man of considera¬ tion in his day, since he witnessed the grant of Warnabalde, ancestor of the Earls of Glencairn, and his wife, Rechenda, the daughter and heiress of Humphrey de Berkeley, when they gifted their Mearns-shire estates to the Abbey of Arbroath 4 Beyond the solitary instance of 1378, already mentioned, we are not aware that the revenues of the church were ever applied either for the support of monasteries or altarages ; and the name of the Saint to whom it was inscribed is lost in the dubious mists of fable. Perhaps, however, from a confused tradition regarding a bell belonging to the church, called the bell of St. Lawrence, it is probable that that patient and worthy martyr, whose feast is on the 10th of August, had been the parish favourite. This instrument is said to have been specially rung by the Durays of Durayhill, who, as will be fully shewn in a subsequent part of this volume, were the hereditary doomsters, or justiciaries, of the lairds of Edzell; and although it was only brought to light, after a long lapse of years, by being acci¬ dentally dragged from the bottom of the old well of Durayhill in the. early part of the present century, and lay in the old * (a.d, 1378)—Lyon's History of St. Andrews, vol, ii, p. 312. t Maitland Club Publication, 4to, Edin. 1830. t (AD- 1238.)—Reg. de Aberbrotboo, p. 143. B 2 4 LAND OP THE LINDSAYS. church down to the period of its demolition, it has since been completely lost sight of. The loss of this, which was, perhaps, the oldest parochial relic, is much to be regretted, since all description proves it to have been an instrument of the most primitive manufacture, and might suggest a comparison with some of those described and figured in Dr. Wilson's admirable work on the " Prehistoric Annals of Scotland."* It was made of common sheet iron, of a quadrangular form, about a foot high, and correspondingly "wide, and narrowing a little towards the top. The handle was placed horizontally on the side, and passing through the bell, formed the axle of the clapper, which was suspended by an S- The clapper wTas of wrought iron, shaped somewhat like a purring iron, and is said to have been newer than the bell; but no person remembers to have seen any trace of writing upon it. Bells were used by the first christian settlers, and were ever objects of great veneration, and as duly consecrated as the church and pastor. St. Columbkill had one on the famous island of Ioua (commonly, but erroneously, written Iona) ; and St. Ternan had one presented to him by Pope Gregory the Great, which was deposited beside his relics, and held in high veneration at the kirk of Banchory Ternan, where he was buried. Prior to the fashion of administering oaths over the Holy Bible, bells were used instead ; and instances are on record of people holding them as evidences of right and title to landed property. This was the case with the bell of St. Meddan of Airlie. It was resigned by its hereditary possessor, the Curate, to Sir John Ogilvy, who gifted it to his lady, in virtue of which she had possession of a house and toft near the kirk of Luntratken, and had her infeftment completed, by being shut up in a house, and receiving the feudal symbols of earth and stone.f They were also believed to work many miracles, and, amongst others, to frighten away the devil from the souls of departed christians,— hence the origin of the " warning of the passing bell" at funerals—a practice which, though one of the oldest and most revered rites of the Roman Church, is yet used in some presby- terian districts, and dealt out on the same pecuniary considera¬ tions as it was by our superstitious forefathers. * Ellin., ISfil, p. 652, et sub. t (a.d. 1447)—Spalding Club Miscel., vol. iv., pp. 117,118. EDZELL—OLD KlRKYAED. We do not infer, however, although the " toll of the dead bell" is still occasionally heard in Edzell and many neigh¬ bouring parishes, that the inhabitants place any faith in the old belief; but, simply, retain the custom from respect to the worthy people who have gone before them; indeed, the prac¬ tice is now so rare, that, when attempted to be used, the sexton frequently rings " a merry peal," instead of the deep, solemn, and imposing knell, which is so well calculated to strike fear and alarm to the hearts of most listeners. The old kirkyard of Edzell—whither it was customary for the sexton at no dis¬ tant date to precede almost all funeral processions, tolling the unharmonious badge of his sad unenviable office—has now a far more solitary situation than it had in days of yore. It occupies the same site, it is true, by the side of the West Water, but the church is removed, the huge castle is roofless and untenanted, and the busy thriving village fully a mile distant. The abrupt and varied heights of Dunlappie, and the isolated hill of Drummore, raise their protecting and shadowy crests on the north-east and south-west; but solitude reigns around, and barring the thoughtful tread of the curious pilgrim, or the hasty step of the busy merchantman—the ancient lords of the district, and " the rude forefathers of the hamlet"—enjoy an undisturbed and unvaried repose, well befitting the solemnity and awfulness of death. It was different in old times: the clack of the busy mill, and the undisguised laugh of innocent childhood, reverberated within a few paces, and the sweet- scented honeysuckle twined around the door of the miller's cottage, and the healthy vegetable was fostered with all the skill and care then known near the south-west corner of Stop- bridge, where the foundations of long-since inhabited tenements, and pieces of mill gear, are frequently found. Drummore Hill, of late crowned with luxuriant crops of whins and broom, now bearing its hundreds of bolls of yellow corn, could also boast of many tenanted cottages and smiling gardens in old times; and on the southern extremity, on a small isolated hillock, which had been evidently surrounded by a moat, the original castle of Edzell is presumed to have stood. The spot is still called " the castle hillock," and old parishioners have been told by their fathers, that they remembered of two 0 LAND OF TliF LINDSAYS. arched chambers being erased from it, and a common blue bottle, of antique manufacture, found in the crevices, filled with wine or other liquid. This castle, according to tradition, was originally demolished by the ancient lords of Dunlappie,* who, having been engaged in the wars of the Crusades, found, on their return home, that the lords of Edzcll had taken forcible possession of their castle, which stood on a bank immediately opposite, and commencing a desperate reprisal, they demolished the castle, and pillaged and burned the lands of their adversary. Such is the story— whether true or false cannot now be said. But the antiquity of the lands of Dunlappie are beyond all dispute, and, at the time referred to, were in the hands of the great family of Abernethy; f but, so far as we are aware, no trace of their castle of PoolbrigsJ (for so their residence was called) has ever been discovered, and the incident, and name of the castle, are both unknown in history. It is, therefore, apparent, since traces of so many old dwell¬ ings have been found, not only on Drummore hill, but also on that of Edzell, and in the still more immediate vicinity of the burial place, that in old times the kirk had been rather con¬ veniently placed for the great mass of the people—particularly since the east side of the parish was provided with a chapel at Dalbog. But, as the feudal importance of the great house of Edzell declined, the occupation of its numerous retainers, who inhabited those dwellings, necessarily ceased, and several small pendicles being thrown together, the stream of population natu¬ rally sought a place more convenient for mutual labour, and more accessible to merchants and markets 5 and the hillside becoming deserted, and the plain peopled, the village of Slateford gradually increased until it assumed its present important and burgli-like form, although the church was not removed thither until the late period of 1818, when the old one was sacrificed to furnish a few crazy materials to aid in its erection. The old kirk and kirkyard were within the same delta as the * Dun-laipach, i. e. " miry hillocks."—( Dun also means " a fort.") t Duncan, the fifth Earl of Fife, and fourth in descent from the murderer of Macbeth, exeamhied Dunloppie, and Balmadethy in Fearn, with Orem, the son of Hew of Abernethy, for the lands of Balberny, in Fife, in Malcolm IV's time.—Douglas' Peerage. ^ The Gael. PuM-bruach (IVom its being so descriptive of the site of the reputed castle) is perhaps, the true etymology of " I'oolbrigs," and means " a bank or precipice in a bog." EDZELL OLD KIHK. I original castle, and, down to a late period, were difficult and often of dangerous access; for, before the Stop-bridge was thrown over the so-called old channel of the West Water, the inhabitants of the village and other eastern parts had to ford the den on step¬ ping-stones and ladders, and as this mode of transit was ineffi¬ cient when the river was swollen, there was frequently no sermon, because of " the watters being in spaitt."* In short, the kirk latterly assumed altogether a very comfortless aspect, the snow and rain found easy access through the roof, and the floor being some inches lower than the surrounding ground, the area was frequently inundated. But of this crazy fane, where so many of the proud lords of Edzell and their humble retainers bowed the knee, there is, as before intimated, no prominent trace. The not inelegant archway, which separated the kirk from the burial aisle, is built up, and the old area used as a place of common sepulture ; and, within these few years, the bell has been transferred to the new kirk, and the belfrey allowed to fall into decay. Although an object of no great antiquity, still the presence of the bell added considerably to the romantic aspect of the place, and to the convenience of the few scattered inhabitants who peopled the south-west side of the parish ; and having, together with a hand bell, been made from a mould constructed by an ingenious villager, and cast in the woods of Edzell by a band of tinkers, who had made good their quarters for a time, it may be said to possess a more than ordinary local interest. It now lies as lumber about the new church, and may soon, alike with its unfortunate predecessor of St. Lawrence, be altogether lost sight of.j" It is also worthy of notice that the old kirk was perhaps amongst the earliest slated of our landward churches ; for so early as 1641, we are not only informed that a payment was made to " the sclaitter for poynting the kirke," but have a glimpse at the extras or overpayments of the time, in the curious item of "mair of drink siluer to hys boy, 6d." Nothing is known of the state of religion in Edzell prior to the date of the parochial register, which begins on the third of * Par. Peg., Nov. 12,1(548, et sub. t The kirk bell bears the . parisii . of . edzell . me. . iames . Thomson . minr. . made . at . sclat . ford , by . i«HN . easton . 1720." Oil tl)0 hand bell " edzell . parish . ioa , easton , fecit . 1720." The bell on the new kirk bears the (late of 1819, s LAND OP THE LINDSAYS. January, 1641; but there is no reason to believe that "the new doctrine" was introduced earlier here than in other parts of the shire. It might be curious to know, though we are not aware if it could be ascertained correctly, whether Edzell was among those parishes which were supplied by one of the " manie popishe preistis, unabill and of wicked life," whose conduct was winked at by the Superintendent Erskine ;* but, it is certain that Sir David of Edzell, who succeeded his father in 1558, as well as his excellent brother, Lord Menmuir, espoused the re¬ formed doctrines, and that they were religiously cherished by all their successors. Indeed, so attached was the grandfather of the last laird to the cause of the Covenant, that he raised a regiment in support of it, which was known by his own name ;f and, in the Parliament of 1662, the Earl of Middleton fined him in the large sum of three thousand pounds. Kirk-sessions were prohi¬ bited from being held in the parish from the time of " the blessed restoratioun" until 1662, and on being resumed by order of the Bishop and Presbytery, Mr. Dempster "begood the administra¬ tion of discipline," and from that time matters moved smoothly on, till the abolition of episcopacy at the beginning of last cen¬ tury, when, under tire banner of " the last laird," the opposition was carried to a higher pitch than, perhaps, in any neigh¬ bouring district. It is true that the Earl of Southesk's factor forced the ad¬ joining parishioners of Stracathro, under pain of being carried to the Pretender's camp at Perth, to meet him " at the head of eighty men under arms, with beating drums, and flying colours," and to join with him in a day of humiliation and prayer, " for success to the Pretender's army,"J but it docs not appeal* that so forcible means were employed there against the introduction of the presbyterian minister, as at Edzell. Both by fair and foul means, David Lindsay exerted himself to the very utmost in his power for the maintenance and propagation of his cause, and although prohibited by the Lords of Justiciary from the use of the church, and forbidden to preach in the parish, the minister, who was a namesake of the laird's, was encouraged * Booke of the Universall Kirk of Scotland.—Bann. Club, p. 25. 1 " The minister told from the pulpit that he was appointed by the presbytery to attend the lord of Egill's regiment for one month."—Jfenmvir 1'ar, Beg., Avg, 11, 1550. I iStramthro J'nr. Beg., A'oe. 2, 1715. EDZELL—EPISCOPAL RIOTS OF 1714. 0 and protected by him in every possible manner, and openly taught his revolutionary principles—" prayed for the popish pretender as King of those realms," and " preached in the great hall of Edzell'' to assembled multitudes. In this manner they not only held exhortations on Sabbaths, but took the manage¬ ment of all parochial business as "the Kirk-session of Edzell" —relieved the poor of the parish, and elected a schoolmaster— and until active measures were taken by Government for the minister's removal, successfully maintained their position against all and sundry. In this state of matters, on the 26th of August, 1714, the Presbytery ordained the Rev. Mr. Gray as Mr. Lindsay's suc¬ cessor, and it could scarcely be supposed that one of so bold and impetuous a temperament as the laird would quietly submit to have his power set aside, and the important adjunct of patron of the parish summarily wrested out of his hands. It was, indeed a fitting opportunity for a display of his determined character • and, although aware that ere long he would require to bid the lands of his sires adieu for ever, he resolved to support his feudal title in all its bearings, so long as he held possession. Accord¬ ingly, on the Sabbath after Air. Gray's ordination, which the Presbytery found necessary, for safety's sake, to conduct at Brechin, " the doors of the church were shut [against him] by order of the laird," and, for want of better accommodation, he preached his first sermon in the open air. For some reason or other not specified, but perhaps from the laird's absence from the parish, Mr. Gray had admission to the church on the two following Sundays, but on the third and fourth thereafter, he and a Mr. Johnston were severally excluded, together with their followers, "whom they had brought with them from Brechin," all of whom " were most inhumanly and bar¬ barously treated" by the Jacobites. None abashed, however, the presbyterians persevered in maintaining their ground; but on the third of October the crisis was reached, and Mr. Gray and party had no sooner arrived at the church, than they were violently assaulted by a band of men and women, under the laird's directions, who beat and maltreated them in every conceivable way, by cutting their clothes, and stabbing and beating them with " durks, and stones, and rungs," and forcing them to wade to and 10 LAND OF THE LINDSAYS. iro iii the adjoining river, until some of them were nearly killed.* It was only then that Mr. Gray abandoned his post, and claimed protection from the civil authorities, and until the following January, he did not reappear in the parish; but matters being then amicably settled, he resumed his labours in peace, and the Episcopalians delivered over to him the " communion vessells and vestments," which they had all along retained and made use of. During the disturbance of " forty-five," however, matters were otherwise conducted, for then the kirk-session were declared to have acted an exemplary part " in the late unnatural rebellion and, with the exception of the dissent which occurred here, in common with that in most other parts of the kingdom in 1843, the parishioners may be said, ever since the notorious "rabble" of 1714, to have moved quietly on " in the noiseless tenor of their way." None of the clergymen or schoolmasters, so far as we arc aware, were famous for anything beyond their immediate sphere of duties. They seem to have been good useful men in their time, with the exception of one " heartless pedagogue who be¬ longed to the town of Cromarty." When scarcely a year in office he was " detected privately in the night tyme treacherously stealing of a pt of our Sessione records wherein was contained baptisms and marriges," j* and, fearing the worst, he clandestinely departed, and was never again seen in the district. But of all his successors, the name of Mr. Bonnyman, who flourished to¬ wards the close- of last century, lives most vividly in the minds of the parishioners. Though best remembered in the rather unenviable charac¬ ter of a miser, to which, if tales are true, he had a pretty legitimate claim, he had also the reputation of being a good scholar, and prior to his settlement at Edzell, was tutor in the noble family of Kintore. Loath to expend money on fire to cook his food, or to warm himself in all but the severest frosts of winter, he nightly lurked about the blazing hearths of the villagers, and went daily from house to house with his " brose cap" under his arm, and made choice of the " broo" of the " fattest kail pot" to slake his scanty supply of meal l\ He was * See Appendix, No. I. f Parish Reg. 1700. I Prose is " a kind of pottago made by pouring water or broth on meal, which is stirred in while the liquid is boiling,"—Jamieson's Scot. Diet, in voce. ED2ELL- .—SCHOOLMASTER AND MINISTER. 11 a big gruff man, and when in full Sunday habit, sported " a three-nookit business," or sort of cocked hat, but when on his brose-making excursions he wore a broad blue bonnet with scarlet brim, an old-fashioned drab great coat thrown loosely over his shoulders, and fastened at the neck with a big buckle— presenting altogether more the appearance of a sturdy beggar than the learned instructor of the parish, or the possessor, as he was in reality, of some two or three thousand pounds. As his contemporary, the minister, also gained a provincial notoriety, it will, perhaps, excuse our noticing him. This arose, however, not certainly from the penuriousness of his habits, but from the awful and lamentable maimer in which he is reported to have closed his career. It is admitted, on all hands, that his learning was only surpassed by his eloquence as a preacher, and by his gentlemanly bearing and generosity of heart, for his ear was ever open to the tale of distress, and his hand ever ready to afford relief. Unlike Mr. Bonnyman, he was an enthusiastic gambler, and from his expertness in that respect, and his kindly disposition, he was the courted of surrounding landlords, and possessed more influence, perhaps, than any of his brethren; but, with all these accomplishments, and admirable mental qualities, the strange infatuation of his nature, and the circumstances of his death, teach a sad lesson of human frailty, and its certain consequences. Dining at a neighbouring mansion with a large party of gentlemen on one occasion, the game of hazard, as usual, was their after dinner amusement, and the stakes being heavy, and the minister fortunate, the fairness of his play was questioned, and an angry altercation ensuing, one of the losing party, in the heat of passion, lifted a candlestick from the table and felled the minister to the floor. From the injuries thus inflicted, he is said to have almost immediately expired; but the matter being quietly managed, the circumstance ultimately became forgotten, and all the parties concerned, and a generation or two to boot, have now gone to their reckoning. Still, the generous character of the minister, and the sad nature of his death, live in the memories of the children of those to whom his goodness of heart and other amiable qualities were known. 12 land of the lindsays. SECTION II. " See yonder hallow'd fane—the pious work Of names once famed, now dubious or forgot, And buried midst the wreck of things which were : There lie interr'd the more illustrious dead. • • * * « Strange things, the neighbours say, have happen'd here: Wild shrieks have issued from the hollow tombs : Dead men have come agaiu, and walk'd about ; And the great bell has toll'd, unrung, untouch'd." Blair's Grave. Tiie burial vault of the great barons of Edzell, which was attached to the south side of the kirk, forming the old and im¬ portant adjunct of an aisle, is still entire. It is a plain, unos¬ tentatious mausoleum, rather incompatible with the wealth and power of its noble founder; but in excellent keeping with his solemn and benign character. It was erected about the middle of the sixteenth century, by David Lindsay of Edzell, who became the ninth Earl of Crawford ; and the kirk had, perhaps, been rebuilt and slated at the same time. The roof of the vault is covered with grey slates, and lias recently been repaired, and the big window on the south is guarded by heavy staunchels of iron, which, alike with the fine grated door at Invermark castle, had probably been dug from native mines, and smelted in the locality. Earl David was buried here at his own request, as were his first spouse, Janet Gray (who pre-deceased him, in 1549), and the most of their successors. The aisle is entered by a small door on the north, and a flight of steps, hewn of the soft red sandstone of the locality, leads to the gloomy chamber. Internally, the vault is only about nine feet square, and so crowded with rubbish and bones, that 110 adequate idea can be had of its real height, The sides and roof are of solid ashler, constructed with great care, and the centre of the roof terminates in the mortuary semblance of four skulls, cut by a bold and vigorous chisel. An iron ring is fixed in the midst of these for suspending the lamp, which was believed to light the souls of the departed through the unknown maze to eternal bliss. But of all the powerful per¬ sonages here interred, no memorial exists to perpetuate their individual characters, or even their names. It is true, that a EDZELL 13UK1AL VAULT. large slab, having a goodly sculpture of the Lindsay and Aber- nethy arms, and a few stray words and letters, was thrown from the aisle at the destruction of the old kirk, and now lies broken in several pieces in the grave yard ; and, so far as can be judged from the style of its carving—for it is very much mutilated and effaced—it may be supposed to belong to about the beginning of the seventeenth century.'95' One tradition is only known regarding the family of Edzell and this vault; and, as a matter of course, it is fraught with much of the romance and improbability incident to the dream- ings of a remote age. Divested, however, of its accustomed minuteness, tradition has failed to preserve the name of the heroine, but uniformly affirms that she was buried in a trance, and so loaded with rich and valuable jewellery, that the sexton's avariciousness became excited to the highest pitch, and, bent on obtaining the treasure at all hazards, he stole under night to her lonely sanctuary, and soon succeeded in putting himself in pos¬ session of the whole, except the massive rings which girded her swollen fingers. These he eyed with great admiration, and having failed to gain them by ordinary means, the idea of am¬ putation flashed across his relentless heart, and instantly the fatal blade of his large knife made a deep unhallowed incision. A slight movement of the body, and the faint exclamation of " Alas !" soon staggered his valour—the knife dropped from his guilty hand—he trembled from head to foot, and fell senseless on the cold, damp floor, amidst crazy trestles and musty bones ! Meanwhile, the lady disentangling herself from her shroud, snatched the glimmering taper in one hand, and, raising her unexpected deliverer with the other, led him forth of the vault. Restored to consciousness, he craved mercy on bended knees; and although the lady assured him of a handsome reward from her husband if he would accompany her to the castle, he anxiously prayed that he might be allowed to fly from his native land; and she, with a heart grateful for the restoration of life, kindly per- " Besides sculptures of the family arms, the | " . stone bears the initials "A. L." on the sinister in . vita side, and " W. . . ." on the dexter. A per. pendicular line, which runs about two-thirds down the middle, bears these words " . . . . vmine . tvo . lvne."—The following are the only other words and letters decipher¬ able :— ciiristvs . nv . hiec . ioanes . L er . germanvs . o oris . ergo . posvi 14 LAND OF THE LINDSAYS. mitted liim to retain his sacrilegious spoil, and the wily sexton was never more heard of! This romantic story will remind the reader of the extra¬ ordinary ease of the lady's kinsman, Sir William Lindsay of Covington, who, under like circumstances, was laid out for dead; and, but that his young great grand-daughter observed " his beard to wagg," he might, alike with the lady of Edzell, instead of personally greeting the large assembly of relatives and friends who had met to attend his funeral, undergone the sad ordeal of premature burial.* Nor is it unworthy of notice, that cases of protracted slumber were not confined to the direct members of the great family of Lindsay, but were also common to some of them, who walked in humble life, it being scarcely twenty years since the grave closed on a poor female of the same celebrated name, called Euphemia, or, more familiarly, "Sleepin' Effie Lindsay." This singular creature belonged to the parish of Guthrie, but latterly resided in Cortachy, and, on various occasions, lay in a state of utter unconsciousness for a fortnight or more at a time. These soporific attacks were periodical in her case, and all attempts to arouse her from them were in vain ; and after lying in that morbid condition for the long, and almost incredible period of six weeks, she expired, unconscious, it is believed, of her approaching end. The ashes of a Major James Wood lie within the bounds of the same cemetery as those of the great lords of Edzell, and his history being intimately associated with the traditions of the locality, some notice of him may not be inaptly classed under this head. This well-known veteran (a cadet of the old house of Balbegno), resided at Invereskandy, and is popularly said to have been factor to the penultimate laird of Edzell. His old dwelling still stands, though now converted into a barn, and the thick walls and small windows, with cut lintels of rather superior workmanship, certainly bear some trace of the consequence of the place, and the status of its old occupant. The Major is represented as a tall, robust, gruff person, equally hard of heart as of feature, and, were tradition to receive implicit credit, was destitute of all those qualities which ren- " Lives of the Lindsays, by Lord Lindsay, vol. ii. p. 287, In all subsequent reference to this delightful work, it will ba merely noticed us "Lives." EDZELL MAJOR WOOD. 15 der one fellow-creature the cherished friend of another. Indeed, the factorship has been emphatically characterised as being more his pleasure, and the horrid vices of debauchery and seduction, the business of his every day life. It is needless to say that he was famed in the district, and looked upon as nothing short of a demon in human form, and the fine ford in the immediate neighbourhood of his house was only taken advantage of during his absence, or the hours of his repose. One sweet and guileless maiden, who unwarily crossed here when inviting some friends to her approaching marriage, was pounced upon by him in a lone dreary part of the muir, and after a severe struggle, suc¬ ceeded in extricating herself from his grasp. Running towards the river, she sprung in her confusion from the high banks into a deep pool, and falling a victim to the rolling waters, was swept for ever from the earthly presence of her betrothed, and her sorrowing relatives. Such are some of the current stories relative to the Major, who, like other mortals, came to his end ; but not rashly. Had he done so, romance and popular story would have been deprived of a favourite and fertile subject of sympathy and hatred, and the reputed awfuhiess of his deathbed, which is now pro¬ verbial, would not have been witnessed, the common belief, in the sad nature of which, may be gathered from the following, and only remembered stanza of a large poem composed on the occa¬ sion, by an almost unlettered local bard, who lived towards the close of last century :— " An' when the Major was a-deein', The de'il cam like a corbie fleein' ; An' o'er his bed head he did lour, Speerin's news, ye may be sure !" In fact, it is popularly believed that the Major did not die, as implied by the common sense of the term, but was literally suf¬ focated by having a quantity of daich, or dough, stuffed in his mouth to check his blasphemous ravings ! He was buried close to the north-west corner of the Lindsay vault, under a huge flag stone, on which a blank shield, and the illegible remains of an inscription still exist. An incident equally characteristic of the credulity of the period is related concerning the translation of his body to the 10 LAND OF THE LINDSAYS. grave, which, while the company rested on their way to the churchyard, became suddenly so very heavy, that it could not be carried further. In this singular dilemma, the minister had courage to crave the aid of Omnipotence, and fervently ex¬ claimed:—"Lord! whoever was at the beginning of this, let him be at the end of it," when the corpse turned as marvellously light as it was before heavy! Still, though the Major and his evil deeds were hid from mortal eyes, the parishoners were so prejudiced against the spot where he lay, and the very spokes which bore him thither, that none of them would allow their relations to be buried in the former, or carried on the latter. Mr. Bonnyman, the old eccentric schoolmaster already mentioned, is said to have been the first to break down this barrier of superstition and credu¬ lity, by giving strict orders, on his approaching dissolution, that his body should be carried on the rejected bearers, and laid in the same grave with the Major; and, excited by curiosity, when Mr. Bonnyman's grave was made, many persons went to view the huge bones of the dreaded veteran, and even believed, that amidst the clammy ashes of his once gigantic frame, they dis¬ covered remains of the very dough with which he is said to have been hurried out of existence ! Such are a few of the traditions regarding this dreaded son of Mars, which, if but half as true as reported, are quite re¬ volting enough. Doubting the existence of so heartless a mon¬ ster, except in the excitable minds of the superstitious, and de¬ sirous to find all positive trace of his life and transactions, we have made considerable enquiry, but have failed to learn anything of him until within the last ten years of his life. Happily for his reputation, however, we have fallen upon so direct and opposite proofs of the engagements and doings of his life during that period, as compels us to believe that the demoniacal actions imputed to him are purely imaginary, and have probably been confounded with the well-known deeds of another, and certainly justly notorious Major, the celebrated Weir (who was contem¬ poraneous with Wood), the account of whose "Damnable His- torie" has been a source of considerable remuneration to un¬ principled printers and flying stationers, ever since its first publication. EDZELL—REV. GEORGE LOW. 17 Though the discipline of the church was very lax at the period, and pecuniary donations had vast influence with her, it cannot possibly he believed, if the character of Wood was fraught even with a tithe of the ferocity with which the busy tongue of tradition has enshrouded it, that he either would have been invested with the responsible office of an elder of the parish, or been recognised as a witness to the baptism of several children of families of known respectability. Nor can it be presumed that the partner of his bosom could for a moment have tolerated such doings ; for in her—whom, by the way, tradition never so much as once alludes to—we find, from the importance and nature of her gifts to " hallie kirke," the beau ideal of a reli¬ gious and God-fearing woman; while the Major's provision for her after his decease, and his handsome mortification to the poor, shew a spirit of benignity and charity, as well as of conjugal love and affection, equal to the holiest of mankind. These malignant traditions concerning him, may, therefore, as a whole, be safely set down among those in which truth and fiction are strangely and unaccountably commingled.'55' The old kirkyard of Edzell also contains the ashes of the parents, and other near relatives of one who, in the midst of incalculable disadvantages, rose to the highest eminence in the laborious study of natural history, and could number amongst his intimate friends no less celebrated men than Sir Joseph Banks, Dr. Solander, and Mr. Pennant. This was George Low, afterwards minister of Birsay and Harry, the industrious author of "Fauna Orcadensis," and "Flora Orcadensis," and translator of Torfseus' History of Orkney. He was born in the village of Edzell, in March I747.f His mother's name was Coupar, and his father, a small crofter, held the humble ap¬ pointment of kirk-officer, and died when George was only • It appears from the Parish Register of Edzell, that on 15th of January, 1684, Major James Wood was elected an elder, and on the 5th of January, 1685, he was present at the baptism of a son of John Lyndsay in Dalbog. In July and August of the same year, his wife mortified a mortcloth to the church, and a table cloth for the communion table ; and on the 6th of October, 1695, " A band was given in by Mr. John Lindsay, factor to the Laird of Edzell, for 200 hundreth and fiftie marks, mortified to the poore of Edzell, by Major James Wood, only payable after the decease of Margrat Jackson, his relick, by whom it is presented, and ane receipt given by the minister and session to the said Margrat Jackson, acknowledging hir right to the interest yof for the forsaid soume, during hir lyfetyme, according to the Letter will of the defunct." t Erroneously printed 1746 in all biographies.—" 1747, March 29; George Low, lawfull son of John Low, kirk-officer, and Isabel Coupar his spouse, baptized."—Par. Reg. of Edzell. C 18 LAND OF THE LINDSAYS. thirteen years of age, leaving him and two daughters. The daughters were married to respectable villagers of Edzell, of the names of Thomson and Lindsay. The latter was an ingenious self-taught mechanic, who, to his trade of general merchant, added that of watch and clockmaker; and having had his shop robbed on an Edzell market night, the peculiarity of the tools with which he wrought led to the discovery of the felon, a notorious provincial highwayman, who, for this crime, was hanged on Balmashanner hill at Eorfar, in 1785, and is said to have been the last person who suffered capital punishment by the decree of any Sheriff in Scotland. Low began his studies at Aberdeen, and afterwards went to St. Andrews; and being taken to Orkney in 1766, by Mr. Alison, then minister at Holme, he became tutor to the family of Mr. Grahame, a wealthy merchant in Stromness, with whom he remained six years. While there, he studied assiduously for the ministry, and his divinity studies being incomplete, in order to pre¬ pare him for examination previous to license as a preacher, he received "lessons," as was then usual in such cases, from some of the ministers in the Presbytery. On leaving the family of Mr. Grahame, he went to Shet¬ land, where he preached in various parts for two years, during which time he became acquainted with Mr. Pennant, whom he accompanied on his celebrated Shetland tour. From his great botanical knowledge, he was of vast service to Mr. Pennant, through whose influence, Sir Lawrence Dundas, then patron of most of the churches of Orkney and Shetland, presented Mr. Low to that of Birsay and Harry, where he was settled on the 14th of December, 1774. Two years after, he married Helen, daughter of his former benefactor, " the learned Mr. Tyrie, of Sandwich but she died within sixteen months, after giving birth to a still born child. Her husband survived until the 18th of March, 1795, and dying at Birsay, was buried in the church, below the pulpit. A correspondent informs us that " he latterly accustomed him¬ self to study in bed, which, on many occasions, was more like the dormitory of the dead than of the living." In addition to the works above noticed, Mr. Low left a history of Orkney in manuscript, which fell into the hands of Mr. Alison of Holme, who gave it to Dr. Barry, by whom " it was EDZELL KIRK OF NEUDOS. 19 laid under heavy obligations in compiling his workand although he was indebted to it for the greater part of the Ap¬ pendix, in which he treats of the natural history of Orkney, Barry nowhere acknowledges his obligations to Mr. Low, whose manu¬ scripts, it is believed, are still in existence. As a preacher, Mr. Low was good, plain, and practical; and although he had the misfortune to lose his eyesight five years before his death, his blindness, so far from disqualifying him from preaching, improved him very much. He dispensed the sacra¬ ment three times during his incumbency, and intended a little before his death to dispense it a fourth time. Dissent was un¬ known in the parish in his day ; and although there are now seven or eight different places of worship, the standard of re¬ ligious knowledge and practice is said to have been higher then than at any subsequent period.* Apart from the old parish kirk, the district of Edzell can boast of the remains of no fewer than three other ancient eccle¬ siastical establishments. These are Dalbog, Colmeallie, and Neudos.f The first is mentioned in the ancient Taxatio, and the printed Retours; the second is merely recorded as a so-called Druidical circle, and as such, will be noticed in the subsequent Chapter; and the third was a well-known separate parish down to a comparatively late period. Unlike its fellows, Neudos lies in the county of Kincardine, immediately north-east of the estate of The Burn, and part of it anciently belonged to the wide-spread and lucrative Regality of Torphichen, the principal preceptory of the knights of St. John of Jerusalem, who were superiors of lands throughout all the counties of Scotland, with the exception of the shires of Argyle, Bute, and Orkney. The date of the grant of lands in the parish of Neudos to the knights is unknown; but the parish was in the diocese of St. Andrews, and paid an annual to that cathedral of four marks Scots. The thick, closely cemented foundations of * I am indebted for many of these interesting particulars regarding Mr. Low, to the kind¬ ness of the Rev. Dr. Samuel Traill, the present incumbent ofBirsay and Harry, whose informant, Mr. George Louttit, late parochial schoolmaster, and now in his eighty-fifth year, " bears a kindly recollection of Mr. Low, to whom he was greatly indebted for the education he received." f The affix dos, means " a bush or thicketand patches of whins and broom are more than ordinarily luxuriant in the district at this day. We are not aware of the meaning of the prefix Neu, v 2 20 LAND OF THE LINDSAYS. the church, are still traceable in the kirkyard, which is yet used for interments; and the baptismal font, of an octagonal shape, is broken in twain, and used as grave marks. The latest notice of Neudos as an independent cure, occurs in the Register of Ministers for 1567, when, together with Fordoun and Fethir- kairne, it was superintended by a clergyman named Peter Bouncle, who had twenty-two pounds Scots for his labours, " with the support of the Priour of St. Androis." The precise time of its union with Edzell has not been ascertained ; but it cannot be much short of two hundred years, since about that time the first notice occurs of the inhabitants attending the kirk of Edzell in this quaint, but satisfactory record :—" Given to Androw, the minister's man, for putting ye people of Newdosk over the watter in a coble, 20s."* In a field called the " Piper's-shed," nearly a mile east of the site of the old kirk, a copious fountain bears the name of " St. Dristan," or St. Drostan, to whom, in all likelihood, the kirk had been dedicated. Like all consecrated springs, this is said to have wrought numerous and wonderful miracles; and, from the waters proving so powerful a curative in all sorts of disease, the Esculapian craft felt their occupation so much endangered, that a few of the hardiest of them went to poiscn the fountain; but the neighbours hearing of their intention, fell upon them with sticks and stones, and killing the whole of them, had their car¬ cases buried around the well! The farm adjoining the graveyard is called the Kirkton, and " the manse field" lies on the west side of the burn, within which an angular patch of land, of an acre in extent, is known as " the glebe," and was perhaps the Temple lands of old. It is certain, however, that this isolated acre is the only part of the Panmure estates which lie in the county of Kincardine, and is let to the farmer of Auchmull and Dooly, who sublets it to the tenant of Kirkton, in the midst of whose ground it is situate. Though now known as Balfour,f the whole district was an¬ ciently designed " the thanedome of Neudos," or as more re¬ cently written, Newdoskis, or Newdosk, holding in part, as already seen, of the Knights of St. John. It acquired the name of "thanage," or "thanedome," from having been anciently under * Par. Reg., Jan, 1G02. t Bal-fuar, i. e. " cold town '—a not inapt name for the place. EDZELL—CIIAPELKY OF DALBOG. 21 the management of thanes, or king's stewards ; for, down to tie year 1329, no family is mentioned in a proprietary relation to it; but, of that date, King David gave a grant of it to Sir Alexander Lindsay of Crawford, the father of the first Lindsay of Glenesk, consequently—next to the lands of Little Pert, and the thanedom of Downie—Neudos was the first land held by that powerful family in the districts of Angus and Mearns. The Chapelry of Dalbog* was on the east side of the parish, due west of Neudos. The time of its suppression is unknown ; and though no vestige of any house remains, the site of the place of worship is still called the "chapel kirk shed" by old people, and, in the memory of an aged informant, a fine well and hamlet of houses graced the spot. This field adjoins the hillock of Turnacloch, or " the knoll of stones," which was probably so named, from being topt in old times by a so-called Druidical circle, the last of the boulders of which were only removed in 1840. Some of them decorate a gravel mound behind the farm house ; and, on levelling the knoll on which they stood, a small sepulchral chamber was discovered, about four feet below the surface. The sides, ends, and bottom, were built of round ordinary sized whinstones, cemented with clay, and the top com¬ posed of large rude flags. It was situate on the sunny side of the knoll, within the range of the circle ; but was so filled with gravel, that although carefully searched, no relics were found. The building was about eighteen inches broad, and a foot high, and nearly five feet long ; and, at the south end, amidst the clammy earth which covered the bottom, an indentation was observed resembling that which would be caused by the pressure of a human head. According to popular story, Conquhare, the famous thane of Angus, who was butchered in cold blood by his own grandson, Crathilinthus, the son of Finella, had his residence here ; but, whatever truth may be in the story of his murder, and Finella's well-known revenge on the person of King Kenneth, who had ordered Crathilinthus to be executed, there is no reason for be¬ lieving that the unfortunate Conquhare abode in this quarter. * Gael. Dail-bog, i. e. "the bog or miry valley." The " Dulbdok" in the Register of St. Andrews, and " Dulbrothoc," in that of Arbroath, are one and the same, and supposed to be Dalbog. The name is written " Devilbog," in an infeftment of 1518—(Craaf. Case, p. 158.) 22 land of the lindsays. He was one of the old Earls of Angus—a predecessor of the great Gilchrist—and their residence and heritage were in another and more southern part of the shire ; but, of the existence of a castle at Dalbog, there is not the least shadow of doubt, though, perhaps, it cannot lay claim to the antiquity popularly assigned to it. A building, with very thick walls, lately erased at the east end of the farm house of the Wood of Dalbog, was known by the name of " the castle," and of this the " Wicked Master " took forcible possession in the time of Earl David of Edzell, and carried on his predatory and annihilating labours over the dis¬ trict and tenantry of Glenesk and neighbourhood. At an earlier period, too, the lands of Dalbog were a part of the terce of the Duchess of Montrose, of which Nicholas Fothringham of Powry attempted to deprive her.* It was in this vicinity, also, that Sir David of Edzell had smelting furnaces erected ; and although all trace of these, and the enriching mineral which they were raised to purify, together with the castle and mains of Dalbog, are now gone, the house at the old mill, with the date 1681 (referring to the occupancy of John Lindsay, who long held the office of factor on the estates), is by no means an unimportant looking object. SECTION III. " He is past, he is gone, like the blast of the wind, And has left but the fame of his exploits behind ; And now wild is the sorrow and deep is the wail, As it sweeps from Glenesk to the far Wauchopdale, Bright star of the morning, that beamed on the brow Of our chief of ten thousand, O where art thou now ? The sword of our fathers is cankered with rust, And the race of Clan Lindsay is bowed to the dust." £akl Crawfobd's Coronach. The properties of Edzell and Glenesk have been united together, as they are at present, from the earliest record; and being both known by the common name of the latter, not only gave the surname of " Glenesk" to the most ancient owners, but also the title to many of their followers. This is perhaps the reason why the former district, which ultimately assumed the more important * Acta Dominorum Concilii, Mar. 11,1192, 327-28. D 2 36 land of the lindsays. SECTION IV. Ninian.—How ? know you the towers of Edzell ? Waldave I have heard of them. Ninian.—Then have you heard a tale, Which when he tells the peasant shakes his head, And shuns the mouldering and deserted walls. Macdcff's Cross, by Sir W. Scott. The early life of Sir David of Edzell is a striking contrast to that of his later years. Like the erratic spirits already noticed, he had much of the hot-headed character of feudal times. It is not believed, however, that he ever condescended to harrie the fauld or extort black-mail from his vassals or the less power¬ ful of his brother barons; but his resentment of insult offered either to himself or clan, seems, in some instances, to have been satisfied only by the blood of the offender. This was pre¬ eminently the case in regard to the slaughter of the laird of Lundie, in which his brother of Balhall, and kinsmen of Balqu- hadlie and Keithock were concerned, and for which all of them had a remission in 1583. This affray, which ended so fatally, was not caused by the resentment of any injury which Lundie had inflicted on Edzell personally, but arose from his having taken part in the revenge of a real or supposed insult which Lundie had offered to his chief, the Earl of Crawford. It was so also in the quarrel betwixt his cousin of the Vayne, and the Bishop of the Isles, in which, too, from the sheer love of clanship, he took a leading part, right or wrong, as he did at the destruction of the Earl of Montrose's cruives at Morphie.* The aggrieved parties were all men of considerable influence, and combined as one to curb the power of their haughty rival; and, had Edzell been guided by the bent of his own wishes merely, his interference in these matters might have proved ex¬ ceedingly disastrous, if not wholly inimical, to the interests of his house. Submission, even in its most modified form, could be ill brooked by him, and none, save his excellent brother, Lord Menmuir, durst suggest an abandonment of his reckless purposes. While residing at the Vayne, in the autumn of 1582, this great man, and affectionate brother, apprized Edzell by * Lives, vol. i, p. 329, et seq. EDZELL—LORD EDZELL. 37 letter of the storm that was fast encircling him; and, although, as already seen, a mere follower, and one who had done nothing more than his opponents would if placed in the same position, he was supposed, as is generally the case in such circumstances, to have been a prime-mover in each and all of those affrays. " I would request you to be better avisit," said Lord Menmuir, in the admirable letter alluded to, " and to use counsel of your best friends. Consider how troublesome is the world, how easily oney man who is stronger nor ye at ane time may do you ane wrang, and how little justice there is in the country for repairing thereof. Therefore, I wald desire you above all things, to travail to live in peace and concord with all men, other ways your life and pairt of the world shall be very unpleasant, ever in fear, danger, and trouble, whereof the maist pairt of them who calls themselves your friends would be glad."* This and a few similiar admonitions had the salutary effect which Lord Menmuir so much desired; and, on being once con¬ vinced of the unenviable position he held in other than the society of his own clansmen and relatives, it was easy to effect a reforma¬ tion in the mind of one whose failing lay more in the resentment of the insults offered to his friends than to himself, particularly in a mind so expansive and generally well assorted as Edzell's; for, with all the asperities which characterized his nature, "he had tastes and pursuits," as beautifully said by his elegant and im¬ partial biographer, " which mingled with his more feudal cha¬ racteristics in strange association; he was learned and accom¬ plished—the sword, the pen, and the pruning-hook, were equally familiar to his hand; he even anticipated the geologist's hammer, and had, at least, a taste for architecture and design."f Examples of his qualifications in these varied acquirements exist in some shape or other. Enough has been said to prove his expertness as a swordsman; and his proficiency in literature is alluded to in so unmistakeable language by the King on pre¬ senting him to the vacant office of a Lord of Session on his brother's resignation, as to sufficiently guarantee the certainty of his acquirement in that respect. His correspondence regard¬ ing the mines of Glenesk, which is fully brought under notice in Lord Lindsay's "Lives of the Lindsays,"j: shews his aptitude in * See Letter in " Lives," vol. i., p. "39. t Ibid, p, 339. f Ibid, p. 342, et sub. 38 LAND OF THE LINDSAYS, the study of mineralogy; while the extensive additions which he made to the work, so nobly begun by his father, in the ex¬ tension of his old paternal messuage, is still apparent in the ruins of those gigantic and tasteful labours. It was he also who " rebuilt the garden-wall in a style of architectural decoration, ' as his noble kinsman justly says, " unparalleled in those days in Scotland,—the walls presenting the Lindsay fesse-chequde and stars of Glenesk, flanked by small brackets for statues, alternately with sculptures in alto-relievo, representing the Theological and Cardinal Virtues, the Seven Sciences, the planets, &c., in the allegorical style and manner of the followers of Niccola and Andrea Pisano in the fourteenth century, "f Nor were Sir David's energies wholly centred in the decora¬ tion of his own mansion. It was also his aim to advance the importance and interests of his tenantry to the utmost of his power, and, with this view, he planned a town at Edzell, with cross and market placed and which, at a later period, was erected into a burgh of barony. Thither the tenantry of Edzell, Glen¬ esk, and Lethnot, were bound to bring their dairy and other marketable produce on the monthly fair-day ; and certain arrangements were entered into betwixt Edzell and the magis¬ trates of Brechin, by which the stock reared by, and belonging to the tenantry of Edzell and Glenesk were admitted, custom free, to the groat Trinity Muir Fair, of which the magistrates of Brechin are superiors. It was perhaps on occasion of this ami¬ cable arrangement that the laird of Edzell was admitted a free¬ man of the said burgh. j| Weighing apparatus, stances, and other requisites for carrying out the object to its full extent, were erected at the laird's expense, and the market is said to have flourished for many years, with considerable success, even after the body of its spirited projector was laid in the tomb beside his kindred. " Auld Eagle's Market," as the August fair is locally called, is perhaps the echo of the laird's noble institution, for it is the oldest established of any fair now held at Edzell. Such were the peaceful and praiseworthy labours which occu¬ pied the later years of Lord Edzell, by which title he had been " Lives, vol. i, p. 3-12, el sub f Ibid, p. 346. J Ibid, p. 348. U (July 26, 1580.) — Minutes of Bailie Court of Brechin, bound up with those of the Ilammcr- man Incorporation, and in possession of that body. These are the oldest records belonging to the city of Brechin, and date from 2nd February, 1579, EDZELL—MURDER OF LORD SPYNIE. 39 known from his appointment as a Lord of Session; and being honoured with knighthood in 1581, he was farther dignified in the memorable 1603, when James ascended the throne of Eng¬ land, by being chosen a privy councillor. In the enjoyment of all the blessings which extensive learning, and judiciously exer¬ cised power could impart, and in the full confidence of an enligh¬ tened sovereign, the sun of prosperity seemed to shine in full glow upon him from all quarters, and he deemed nothing nigh that could in any way disturb his quiet. Unfortunately, how¬ ever, in the midst of this tranquillity, his hopes were unex¬ pectedly blighted, and the evening of his life harassed, from the occurrence of an untoward and sad event of riot and murder, committed by his eldest son, for which Lord Edzell was harassed all his life long. Much of the daring and reckless character which marked the career of his ancestors on both sides, unfortunately fell to the lot of " Young Edzell," and almost the only points recorded of him have reference to some lawless transaction. The first outbreak in which he was concerned occurred in 1605, when he and young Wishart of Pittarrow, with their followers, met in the Saltron of Edinburgh, and fought a desperate battle, which continued from nine to eleven o'clock in the evening, in which " their wer sundrie hurt on both sydes, and ane Guthrie slaine, which was Pittarrow's man," and who, in the language of the quaint diarist Birrel, was " ane very prettie young man." For these disturbances, the aggressors, and, as was the custom of the period, their fathers also, had to stand trial, all of whom were fined, and warded to certain of the state castles. But the most unfortunate circumstance of young Edzell's life was his inadvertent slaughter of Lord Spynie, on the same ill- fated street. This affair ever preyed heavily on his mind, and, as in the Pittarrow case, was the source of much vexation and annoyance to his aged father. The circumstances relating to this luckless affair are interesting, and may be briefly told. David, master of Crawford, and eldest son of the eleventh Earl, was, in every respect, a worthy disciple of his turbulent clans¬ men. Like the " Wicked Master," and his son, he scoured the country at the head of a band of armed desperadoes, at whose hands the life and property, even of their own immediate re- 40 LAND OF THE LINDSAYS. latives, met with no feeling of regard ; and in these lawless ex¬ hibitions he attacked and slew his kinsman, Sir Walter of Bal- gavies, on the 25th of October, 1605. The House of Edzell, of whom Sir Walter, as already shewn, was an immediate rela¬ tive, determined on revenging the murder, and the " young laird," with his brother of Canterland, watched an opportunity for effecting that purpose. Accordingly, the brothers, with several of their clansmen, assembled in Edinburgh, and on the evening of the 5th of July, 1607, attacked the Master on his way up the High Street, while accompanied by his uncle, Lord Spynie, and Sir James Douglas. "It was dark so that 'they could not know ane be (from) the other,' and, in the rapid ex¬ change of shots and sword-strokes, the three friends were all wounded, the Master and Lord Spynie so desperately, that though the former latterly recovered, ' Lord Spynie expired of his wounds eleven days thereafter.' "* Young Edzell fled from justice, and took up his abode in the castles of Auchmull, Invermark, and Shanno, all situate in Glenesk, and in points so difficult of access, particularly the last mentioned, that he contrived to evade his pursuers for a considerable period. His father was prohibited from sheltering him under heavy penalties, and it was on his being hunted from Auchmull and Invermark, that he erected the fortalice at Shanno which is known synonimously as the " Castle" and "Auldha'," and of which some foundations still remain on the hill side to the west of the farm house.f Accountable for the misdeeds of his son, Lord Edzell was so greatly harassed by the Earl of Crawford, anent the unfortunate murder of Spynie, that he found peace neither at home nor abroad. No less than five of his servants were " shot with pistols and hurt," and himself " not wundit only " as he quaintly observes, " but banishit from my virtue." It was under these painful circumstances that Lord Edzell found himself compelled to write the king " craving ever to be try it of the unhappy slaughter of my umquhill lord of Spynie," but it was not until a second appeal was made to his majesty, setting forth the insecure » Lives, vol. i., p. 386. 1 The ruins do not indicate a building of more than about twenty feet square, and are about four feet thick and nearly the same height. A large old fashioned brandcr or gridiron was found here about thirty years since, EDZELL—OFFERIS FOR SFYNIE'S SLAUGHTER. 41 state in which his person and property stood with his overbearing chief, that the trial of Edzell and his son of Canterland, " as suspected connivers at the death of Lord Spynie," was permitted. The trial was fixed for the 6th of September, 1607, but the accusers failing to appear, the matter lay dormant for many years, during which Lord Edzell died, and his son was so far restored to favour as to be again received into the church, from which he had been excommunicated.* The murder of Spynie, however, was not allowed altogether to rest. In the year 1616 the matter was agitated anew by Spynie's eldest son and heir, who, acting for his sisters and other kin¬ dred, demanded a compensation for " the said slaughter." " Of- feris," were accordingly made by Edzell " for himself and in name of his followeris " to Lord Spynie, for the purpose of " re¬ moving of all grudge, haitred, and malice conceavit and borne be them against him and his followeris for the onhappie and negli¬ gent and accidentarie slaughter " of the late Lord. As this document of " olferis " is in itself curious, and not only shews young Edzell's innocence of the matter, but the complete want of intention on his part, and that of his accomplices to murder Spynie, it is here given entire, and in its original orthography :— " In the first, I attest the grytt god, quha knawis the secrettis of all liairtis that it was never my intentione to hairm that Noble man, moire nor I wald have done my awin hairt, Quhom at that tym and all tymis pre¬ ceding I ever lovit and respeckit as my Wncle, and wald ever have rather liazsard my lyff, then have knawin him in any sik danger. " Forder, I shall declair for myself and all thaie quha ar alyiff that war present thereat, that We are innocent in thocht, word, and dead of that fact, and it is off veritie that the committer thairoff died, for that evil dead quhilk fell in his hand, wiolentlye, quhom I cold never patieutlie behold, efter triall and confessione of sik onhappie creueltie, quhilk sail be maid manifest and confirmed, be all testimonies requisit, under all hiest paynis. Secondlie, for declaratione of my penitencie and the sorrowe of my hairt for that onnaturall and onhappie fact, I offer to the said Noble Lord, my Lord of Spynie and to his twa sisteris the sowme of Ten Thowsand Merks, and forder at the discretione of freindis, to be chosin equalie betuixt ws. " Lord Edzell died on the 18th of January 1611, and his first wife, a daughter of the Earl of Crawford, and mother of all his family, predeceased him in 1570. His second wife was Dame Isabella Forbes, and a shield bearing the Lindsay and Forbes arms impaled, still orna¬ ment the canopy of a door in the flower garden "1-4 gules, a fesse-cliequee argent and azure, for Lindsay; 2-3, or, a lion rampant, gules, surmounted by a bendlet, sable, for Abernethy ; impal¬ ing, azure, three bears' heads and necks argent, muzzled gules, for Forbes.—" S.D.L." on dexter and " D.I.F," on sinister side of shield, with date "1004." 42 LAND OF TIIE LINDSAYS. " Thridlie, Becaus the rwinit and rent estait of my Hous may per¬ mit no forder offer off grytter sowmes, I offer to do sik Honour and Homage to the said Noble Lord of Spynie iiis sisteris curators and freindis as thaye shall crawe." D. LYNDESAY."* A contract was therefore entered into, by which Edzell agreed to give the heirs of the late Spynie, the lands of Garlobank, in the parish of Kirriemuir, in addition to the large sum of ten thou¬ sand marks, mentioned in the " offeris," and the affair was finally set at rest in 1617, by the royal grant of a remission for the murder, by " letters of Slains," under the Great Seal. This unfortunate affair, as already noticed, constantly haunted poor Edzell, and the payment of the ten thousand marks in the " rwinit and rent estait" of his house, to which he so feelingly alludes, had doubtless been a barrier to any extensive improve¬ ments which he might wish to make on his property, and deterred him, if he had ever inclined, to follow in the wake of his tasteful parent. He lived, however, to a good old age ; and besides being harassed by heartless kinsmen, had the misfortune to see his son and heir apparent laid in the tomb before him. He died himself in 1648, and was succeeded by his nephew, John of Canterland, who had retours of the lordship of Edzell and Glen- esk in June of that year. Soon after this John was elected an elder of the church and parish of Edzell, and, as noticed in the first Section, he was a staunch supporter of the covenant. He also held the important office of Sheriff of Angus-shire, which, together with his great influence as a landholder, rendered both himself and the district objects of notoriety in those disturbed times. Mon¬ trose having entered Angus in his flight before the Parliamentary faction, took refuge in Glenesk, which he harried and destroyed so extensively, that thenceforward the house of Edzell, which had partially overcome the extravagancies of previous lairds, received a blow from which it never recovered. Indeed, the laird found himself so embarrassed, that although the estate was worth ten thousand pounds a-year in 1630, in less than twenty years thereafter, he was necessitated to petition parliament " for exemption to contributing to the new levies then raised,—' the rebel army,' he says, ' having been for a long time encamped * From a paper in the handwriting of David Lyndesay, from the charter room at Glamis, hitherto unpublished, and kindly communicated by the Right Hon. Lord Lindsay. EDZELL—LINDSAY OF CANTERLAND. 43 and quartered upon the lands of Edzell and Glenesk, to the utter ruin and destruction of my lands and tenants, the whole corns being burnt in the barnyards, and the whole store of cattle and goods killed or driven away, whereby the haill lands of Glenesk,* were worth of yearly revenue nine thousand merks, have ever since been lying waste be reason the tenants have not been able to labour the same, in so much that the particular amount of my losses which was clearly instructit to the Committee of Common Burdens, did amount to the sum of fourscore thousand merks or thereby; besides great charges and expenses which I have hitherto been forced to sustain for maintaining three several garrisons for a long time to defend my tenants, whereof many, in their own defence, were most cruelly and barbarously killed, as likewise, ever since, a constant guard of forty men for de¬ fending my lands and tenants from the daily incursions of ene¬ mies and robbers.'"f This spirited remonstrance had so far an effect. The laird was exempted from contributing to the assessment complained against; but neither received any part of a previous award of twenty thousand pounds, nor was protected against farther in¬ roads ; for, although the great Montrose had expiated his manifold ingenious and daring enterprises on the gibbet, there was still much, perhaps even more, cause for fear, since those high prin¬ ciples of loyalty which animated Montrose's conduct were spurned by his successors, and the government and army ruled by the baneful sceptre of selfishness and hypocrisy ; The establishment of Episcopacy had been insisted on without success; Naseby had been fought and won by the daring Protector; the King had been basely sold by his faithless countrymen, and died on the scaffold; and the rightful heir to the throne had been defeated at Worcester; and fearing that the ancient symbols of the nation's independence would fall into the hands of the invaders, his friends had the regalia and sword of state secretly translated to the impregnable stronghold of Dunottar. It was accordingly in the year 1651, when the soldiers of the Commonwealth were dispatched in search of those precious symbols, that they made the parish of Edzell their rendezvous, during which the district was laid so effectually under their bann, that for the space of three or four weeks the " Not including Edzell and other property."—Lives. i Cited in Lives, vol. ii, p. '-'56. 44 LAND OF THE LINDSAYS. glad tidings of the blessed gospel were not allowed to be lieai d. Of the circumstances attending their last visit, the sufficiently brief, but unmistakable record of the period, affords a remarkable instance, shewing alike the harassing state of the times and the abandoned nature of those godless soldiery, who, on their arrival one Sunday, went straightway to the church, and in the midst of the sermon, " scattered all ye people to goe and provyd corn and strae."f John of Edzell, who, in all these ravages and exactments over his lands (for we have already seen that he was heavily fined by the Earl of Middleton) beheld, with regret, the irremediable ruin of his house, died in 1671, and was succeeded by his son, David, who (as the third and last Lord Spynie—the chief of the Lindsays—had just died without male issue), became the head of his important clan ; but, unfortunately, his disposition was of so extravagant a character, that he rather tended to increase than dispel the destructive cloud which enshrouded the family fortunes ; and he, in turn, closed his vain-glorious career in 1698,J and was succeeded by his still more reckless and abandoned son, David, the last of the Lindsays of Edzell. This laird had two sisters, Margaret and Janet, and their mother, only daughter to James Grahame, brother to the laird of Fintry, died while they were all young. The oldest daughter married Watson of Aitherny, in Fife, and had the large dowry of seven thousand marks ;|| and the younger (the lovelier of the twain, whose melancholy history has formed the theme of more poets than one), fell a victim to the heartless arts of a young Scottish nobleman, and died in England in obscurity and shame ; while her seducer (popularly, but erroneously, stated to be Lord Spynie), fell at the battle of Almanza, in Spain, in 1707.§ * Par. Reg., Mar. 9, 1662. I Ibid, Sept. 25,1661. J 1698.—"Upon this fyftiend day of Febervarij, the Right Noble Laird of Edzeell died and was buried vpon the fyftaind day of March, and the minister [of] Edzeell, Mr. John Balvaird, preached his funerall sermon the sam sd day."—Parish Reg. See Appendix No. II. for excerpts from the Rental Book of this Laird. \\ (Crawford Case, p. 201.)— The marriage of this lady is thus noticedThe Laird of Edernie and his Ladie were laufullie proclaimed att particullar dyets : and was inaryed vpon the 8th day of Debr. jai. vie, and nyntie two zears."—Edzell Par. Register. § The following is the baptismal entry of this unfortunate lady:—"1681; David Lindsay off Edzell hade a daughter baptized upon ye 2d off Octobor, named Jannett, befor Mr, John Lyndsay in Dalibog Mill, and Alexander Wishart in Scleetfood."—Par. Register. [Lord Edzell also had a daughter named Jannet, who, according to a monument in Inverkeillor churchyard, was married to Gardyne of Lawton in 1603.] EDZELL'S—LADY AITHERNY'S VISIT. 45 The fate of Lady Janet need not be dwelt upon ; indeed, beyond this sad, and too true incident, and the rather striking tradition, that while she lived at Edzell, she was followed to the church, and in all her walks, by a pretty white lamb—the em¬ blem of innocence and purity—nothing whatever is preserved of her history; but the last visit of Lady Aitherny to the house of her birth and her sires is so beautifully and touchingly told by her noble biographer, and so true to current tradition, that we shall give it entire:—" Year after year passed away, and the castle fell to ruin,—the banner rotted on the keep—the roofs fell in—the pleasance became a wilderness—the summer-house fell to decay—the woods grew wild and tangled—the dogs died about the place, and the name of the old proprietors was seldom men¬ tioned, when a lady one day arrived at Edzell, as it is still related, in her own coach, and drove to the castle. She was tall and beau¬ tiful, and dressed in deep mourning. ' When she came near the ancient burying-place,' says the same faint voice of the past, ' she alighted, and went into the chapel, for it was then open,— the doors had been driven down, the stone figures and carved work was all broken, and bones lay scattered about. The poor lady went in, and sat down -amang it a', and wept sore at the ruin of the house and the fate of her family, for no one doubted of her being one of them, though no one knew who she was or where she came from. After a while she came out, and was driven in the coach up to the castle; she went through as much of it as she could, for stairs had fallen down and roofs had fallen in,—and in one room in particular she stayed a long while, weep¬ ing sadly. She said the place was very dear to her, though she had now no right to it, and she carried some of the earth away with her.'—It was Margaret of Edzell, the Lady of Aitherny, as ascertained by an independent tradition derived from a venerable lady of the House of Aitherny, who lived to a great age, and always spoke of her with bitterness as ' the proud bird out of the eagle's nest' who had ruined her family. ' She came once to my father's house,' said she to my informant, ' with two of her children. She was on her way to Edzell Castle. It was years since it had passed away from her family. My father did all he could to persuade her from so waefu' a journey, but go she would; and one morning she set off alone, leaving her 46 LAND OF THE LINDSAYS. children with us, to await her return. She was a sair changed woman when she came back,—her haughty manner was gone, and her proud look turned into sadness. She had found every¬ thing changed at Edzell since she left it, a gay lady, the bride of Aitherny. For the noise and merriment of those days, she found silence and sadness,—for the many going to fro, solitude and mouldering walls,—for the plentiful board of her father, his house only, roofless and deserted. When she looked out from the windows, it was the same gay and smiling landscape, but all within was ruin and desolation. She found her way to what had been in former days her own room, and there, overcome with the weight of sorrow, she sat down and wept for a long time,—she felt herself the last of all her race, for her only brother was gone, no one could tell where. She came back to Gardrum, the next day, and she just lived to see the ruin of Aitherny, which her extra¬ vagance and folly had brought on, for the Laird was a good- natured man and could deny her nothing. They both died, leaving their family in penury.'—And such was the end of the ' proud house of Edzell.' " Alike with the history of those unfortunate ladies, that of their only brother, the last laird, is one of painful melancholy. It is true that between the large dowry to Mrs. Watson, and other liabilities, the estate was greatly burdened ; still, by pru¬ dent management, it might have been soon redeemed, and Edzell restored to the independence and influence of his ances¬ tors. But having been thwarted in love by his cousin, Jean Maria Lindsay,f he cared not to set his affections upon another, and losing all respect for himself, and the dignity of his house, he soon effected its total overthrow. Down to the time of his leaving the parish, however, he was preceded to the kirk on Sundays by a guard of strong hardy retainers, clothed in the family tartan, and, like his father and grandfather, he enjoyed an eldership, in which capacity he assumed those extraordinary powers, and had recourse to those arbitrary measures, already alluded to. Not content with designing himself in the ordinary form of a mere member of session, when attesting the minutes, he appears in the dignified character of " principall and chief elder;" and, in the spirit of true feudalism, the Kirk-session * Lives, vol, ii., pp. 261-5. t Lives, vol. ii., p. 259, EDZELL THE LAST LAIRD. 47 is recorded, oil more than one occasion, to have " mett at the lious of Edzell as the Laird appointed Having this important body so thoroughly under his command, he had no difficulty in subjecting the people to his will,—his power was never questioned for an instant, and, considering his opinion as that of the nation, most of his tenantry believed that neither sovereign nor parliament could rule without his concur¬ rence. Still, though haughty to strangers, and those who of¬ fended him, his heart was full of the milk of human kindness, and so warmly attached was he to his domestics and vassals, that he often devoted his best interests towards the soothing of their misfortunes, and the bettering of their condition. The last hitchie, or " hall boy," who died towards the close of last century, at the great age of nearly a hundred years, had a dis¬ tinct and vivid recollection of this extraordinary person ; and although he loved to speak of his many daring and wonderful exploits, he ever bore testimony to his warm-heartedness and generosity. And it is a remarkable coincidence, that alike with those of poor Edzell, the latter days of the " kitchie boy," were sadly darkened, and his last end was not altogether unlike that of his old master; for while Edzell may be said to have died in a horse's manger, the other was also doomed, through intemperance and dissipation, to close his patriarchal life in the very kennel of the village with which he had been familiar from childhood ! It has been already seen that Edzell's extraordinary opposition to presbyterianism was the last prominent act, and indeed the last appearance of him in the district. A proud spirited and determined baron, he scorned all manner of advice, and the aid of his kinsmen, some of whom offered to discharge his liabilities on the best and most friendly terms, and to restore him in the course of a few years to the full and free possession of the long-inherited and extensive domains of his ancestors. But all remonstrance was in vain ; he had resolved to follow in defence of the luck¬ less house of Stuart, and, with a view of raising a company of followers, sold his patrimony, and found a ready purchaser in the person of the fourth Earl of Panmure; he accordingly left the district—the place of his birth, and the property which his forefathers had held for nearly four hundred years—a poor land¬ less outcast! The tragedy did not terminate here, however; 4-8 LAND OF THE LINDSAYS. after spending a few years on the small property of Newgate in Fifesliire, " he removed to Kirkwall in the Orkney Islands, where he died in the capacity of an hostler at an inn about the middle of last century; or, as stated by Earl James in his Me¬ moirs, in 1744, aged about eighty years—a landless outcast, yet unquestionably dejure ' Lord de Lyndesay.' "* The life of this remarkable man is certainly not without a moral; and perhaps, his extraordinary and chequered career cannot be more appropriately closed than by a repetition of the circumstances of his " flittin," which are thus given in the simple, but impressive language of local tradition :—" The Laird, like his father," as quoted in the interesting " Lives of the Lindsays," so often referred to, " had been a wild and wasteful man, and had been long awa' ; he was deeply engaged with the unsuc¬ cessful party of the Stuarts, and the rumours of their defeat were still occupying the minds of all the country side. One afternoon the poor Baron, with a sad and sorrowful countenance and heavy heart, and followed by only one of a' his company, both on horseback, came to the castle, almost unnoticed by any. Everything was silent—he ga'ed into his great big house, a solitary man—there was no wife and child to gi'e him welcome, for he had never been married. The castle was almost deserted; a few old servants had been the only inhabitants for many months. Neither the Laird nor his faithful follower took any rest that night. Lindsay, the broken-hearted ruined man, sat all that night in the large hall, sadly occupied—destroying papers sometimes, reading papers sometimes, sometimes writing, sometimes sitting mournfully silent—unable to fix his thoughts on the present or to contemplate the future. In the course of the following day he left the castle in the same manner in which he had come; he saw none of his people or tenants : his one attendant only accompanied him : they rode away, taking with * Lives, vol. ii. p 280.—The sale of the property of Edzell and Glen sk, was completed on the 25th ot August, 1715; and the purchase money amounted to the then large sum of £192,502 Scots, or nearly £16,012 stg. The laird's feelings regarding the Stewart interest may be inferred from the following extract from a letter addressed by him to Colin, Earl of Balcarres, on the loth of May, 1712, in which the daring and luckless transaction is hinted at in obscure, but unmistakable terms : —"I spoke to my Lord Dun [David Erskine of Dun], who told me ho would write iramediatelv, but thought it better to delay it till he went to Edinburgh, and procured a letter from ye Justice Clerk [James Erskine of Grange] to his brother, the Earl of Marr, to go along wyth his oun ; he is very frank for ye project, and says ho will write wyt all concern and care of it ."—Crawford Case, pp. 201, <£c. EDZELL—THE TREASURE SEEKER. 49 tliem as much of what was valuable or useful as they could con¬ veniently carry. And, turning round to take a last look of the old towers, he drew a last long sigh, and wept. He was never seen here again."* Although the fact of " Edzell's" embarrassment was generally known, and but " ower true a tale," some thought otherwise, and gave ready credence to the local story of a treasure being hid about the castle walls ; and so convinced was a recently deceased worthy of this, that he set out one dark Saturday evening for the purpose of seizing the pose, the precise locality of which his knowing had placed beyond a doubt. With mattock over his shoulder, he hastened solus from his dreary clay-built tenement in the moss of Arnhal, and, with hardy step, and unquivering lip, bade defiance to all the ghaists that hovered around the Chapelton burying-ground, and the fiery spirits which now and then lent their blue or scarlet gleam to guide his path through the marshy grounds which he had unavoidably to pass. He stayed not at the heart-rending cries of mercy, which fell upon his ear, as the phantom of the courageous bride plunged into the river, to avert a " fate worse than death itself," at the hands of Major Wood ; nor did he list to the loud victorious laugh of the Spirit of Lin- martin, as he rose on the opposite bank of the Esk, and grinned over his ruthless plunder. But on he hied along the narrow plank which crossed the deep gully at the Snecks, and held the tenor of his way to the California of Edzell. The high round tower on the north side of the building was the " gold seeker's " haven. Here, at the extreme point, was a triangular stone, small in size, and of a different colour from its fellows. To this elevated and isolated part he had to worm his way through thorny cattle-fences, over heaps of mouldered turrets, through bat-inhabited chambers, riven and slimy arch¬ ways, to a flight of irregular steps, many of which were so far worn away, as scarcely to afford footing for a crow. Still, to our hero—who felt conscious of finding the long-hidden trea¬ sure—these, even at the dark hour of midnight, were no obstacles. On the contrary, step by step he groped his way to the pinnacle of his ambition; and having satisfied himself where to direct the aims of his mattock, commenced operations. * Lives, vol ii. p. 204, E 50 land of the lindsays. The rain fell apaee—the heavens seemed to frown in wrathful indignation upon his unhallowed searches, and the feathery in¬ habitants of the ruins, and the wild warning notes from the murdered minstrel's pibroch, which echoed from the arch of the Piper's Brig—and the branches of the neighbouring giant trees, joined in the spirit of nature's discontent. Still, these fell as nothing on the ear of the industrious miner : sparks of fire followed the successive and increased strokes of the mattock, while his anxiety and joy kindled as at last he felt the " keystane " shake under his determined aims. Another stroke, and he thought the treasure would be disclosed, and undividedly his own; but alas! the blow was given, and down fell the luckless whin, or ragstone, and a neighbouring part of the wall, carrying with it half the rickety stair of the turret, on the pinnacle and only secure part of which the old farmer of the Mains, when he looked from his win¬ dow on Sabbath morning, beheld the solitary and sorry "gold seeker" drenched with rain, and weeping as the hero of old, over the ruins of his ambition ! SECTION V. " A spectre of departed days Yon castle gleams upon the gaze. And saddens o'er the scene so fair, And tells that ruin hath been there ; And wberesoe'er my glance is cast, It meets pale footprints of the past; And from these high and hoary walls, All mournfully, the shadow fulls, Dark'ning, amidst the garden bowers, The farewell of the fading flouers, Which seem for gentle hands to sigh, That tended them in days gone by," J. Malcolm. The castle of Edzell lies in a hollow, about a mile west of the village, and within a gun-shot of the West Water. In old times this river was augmented by a considerable streamlet which flowed through the little den in front of the castle, and although this channel is now partly under tillage, perhaps the most ro¬ mantic portion yet remains in the shape of an irreclaimable marsh. Towards the northern extremity of this, under an arid and almost perpendicular point of Drummore hill, the fatal " pit" EDZELL—HEREDITARY DEMPSTER. 51 of the ancient lords was situated, and its twin-brother the " fal¬ lows," stood about a mile south-east, in the muir or wood of Edzell. Both those feudal appendages are still represented, although from natural deposit, and the exuberance of brushwood, the former is barely traceable ; but the site of the latter raises its conical head considerably above the adjacent ground, and is a prominent object in the landscape. The " pit and gallows" were used for the punishment of felons in almost all countries from remotest antiquity, and were not only employed for avenging the misdemeanours of vassals, but for the execution of princes and kings. They appear to have been first used in Scotland in Malcolm Canmore's time ; for his council ordained " that fre baronis sail mak jebbattis and draw wellis for punition of criminabyl personis." In old writings they are respectively known by the names of furca and fossa ; and the former was generally used for the punishment of men, the latter, of women convicted of theft.* Unlike most other barons, however, those of Edzell vied with Parliament in the possession of an hereditary dempster, or doom- ster, whose duty lay in repeating the doom or sentence awarded by the judge ; and, from time immemorial, was held by a family of the name of Duray, who had certain emoluments from the pro¬ prietor and his tenants. From each principal tenant they had two pecks, and from each sub-tenant a bassyful, of oat meal annually,! while the laird gave them the free grant of eleven acres of fertile land, on the banks of the North Esk, called Duray hill, from which the family designed themselves " of that Ilk." To these per¬ quisites, according to tradition, were added the farcical privileges of fishing in the almost waterless burn of Whishop, and of hunting on the hill of Wirran with a hawk blind of an eye, and a hound crippled of a leg ! Besides, as they had four pennies Scots for ringing the bell of St. Lawrence on high occasions—such as at the births and funerals of the lords and ladies of Edzell—they may be supposed, in addition to the office of dempster, to have enjoyed that of master beadle.j: * See Dr. Jatnieson's Scottish Dictionary, in voce. t The Bassies, or wooden bowls, for lifting meal from the girnal, are of various sizes, but rarely hold more than half a peek. t See Appendix No. III. for some notice of the Durays. E 2 52 LAND OF THE LINDSAYS. But to return; some are of opinion—indeed, it is generally believed—that the den in which the " pit" lay, was the original channel of the West Water. It is, perhaps, more probable, as already hinted, that it had merely been the course towards the main stream for the waters which accumulated in the marshes on the hill of Edzell; and, for the purpose of forming a pond or moat round the original castle (which stood on an isolated mound in the broadest part of the den), this streamlet may have been dammed up or confined on the southern parts. This theory has, at least, plausibility in its favour; and waiving the consider¬ ation of the many thousands of years which the West Water would have taken to form its present rugged course, the circumstance that the " castle hillock " has all the appearance of having been moated—that the level of the den at the northern extremity is twenty or thirty feet above that of the West Water, and that the remains of a great natural fosse or ditch may still be traced running from the hill of Edzell to the top of the den—con¬ tributes to favour this notion. As already intimated, no trace of this castle exists, but the ruins of its successor, or rather those now standing, are the largest, and, taken as a whole, the most magnificent of any in the shires of Angus and Mearns, except those of Dunottar, which rival them only in point of extent. The donjon, or " Stirling Tower," as it is called, is yet an imposing, and, so far as relates to the outer wall and ground floor, a pretty entire structure. It stands about sixty feet high, is the most carefully executed part of the whole building, and, for beauty and solidity of workman¬ ship, will bear comparison with any of modern times. It is popularly believed to have been erected by the old family of Stirling, but beyond its bearing their name, no other evidence exists; and although "mason-marks" are discernible on most of the principal stones, it is not supposed that they afford a criterion for fixing its date. Down to the great hurricane on the 12th of October 1838, the battlements could be reached, and walked upon with perfect safety; but on that awful night, when most of the thatched cottages in the village, and other parts of the district, were almost instantaneously unroofed, the upper part of the stair was so EDZELL—THE CASTLE. greatly injured that the top cannot now be gained without danger. The walls of the Keep are from four to six feet thick; and, apart from the regular window lights, are here and there perforated by circular and oblong loopholes. A cluster of these guard the main entrance at all points, and afford a striking and incontestable proof of the sad insecurity of life and property, and of the intestine commotions which then rended the nation asunder, retarded the progress of the peaceful arts, and destroyed the soothing influence of domestic harmony. The base floor of the Tower consists of two damp gloomy vaults, to which a faint glimmer of light is admitted through small apertures. These are popularly believed to have been wards or prisons for holding condemned criminals in days of old, while in reality they were merely cellars used for the preserva¬ tion of choice liquors and viands, which we have the best of all authority for knowing, were far from strangers at the boards of ancient lords and barons. Apart from the entrance doors in the main lobby, these cellars communicate with each other, and also with the dining room by a narrow stair. Their arched roofs form the floor of that room (which is the only remaining floor in the Keep), and occupying nearly the whole length and breadth of the tower, it had indeed been a spacious apartment, quite commen¬ surate with the reputed power and influence of its owners, while the elevated roof and large windows may be considered as antici¬ pations of our recently improved household ventilation. Seats of polished freestone are raised on the inside of eacli window that overlooks the flower garden and the fine old castle green, on which, in the hey-day of Edzell— " The deer and the roe bounded lightly together." The old castle is not presumed to have been of much greater extent than as now indicated by the Stirling Tower; but of this, as of its date, no positive trace can be obtained. The new part, or the long range of building which stretches from the Keep northward, was the work of David of Edzell, before his succession as ninth Earl of Crawford; and though comparatively recent, is the most ruinous part of the whole, and, with the exception of a solitary base stone of the entrance door of the great hall LAM) OF TJ1E LINDSAYS. (where the Episcopalians met in the last laird's time), no traee of the ornamental part of this section of the castle is supposed to exist; but from the beauty of this remain—which consists of three pilasters and a fine cable ornament on the inner margin, all beautifully proportioned—some idea may be had of the former elegance of the place, and the advanced state of native sculpture.*' Nay, although niches for three various coats armorial are still over the front of the outer entrance, the sculptures are all gone—even that which is said to have lately existed bearing the impaled arms of the ninth Earl and those of his lady of Lorn. It ought to have been mentioned before, that during the widow¬ hood of this amiable lady and while her family were all young, the castle of Edzell was honoured with the presence of the unfor¬ tunate Queen Mary. This occurred on the 25th of August, 1562, while Her Majesty was on her well-known northern expedition to quell the Huntly rebellion, on returning from which, accom¬ panied by Lords Murray, Maitland, and Lindsay (the last of whom afterwards forced her to resign the crown at Lochleven), she held a Council and remained for the night, from which time the room in which she slept, though its locality is now unknown, was ever after called the Queen's Chamber. The outer walls of the castle, however, so far as had been completed, are still pretty entire; but the inner have suffered sadly, as have most of the vaults, which had been carried around the whole; and, instead of being strewed with rushes, or decorated with tapestry, as in the olden time, the acrid nettle, and other indigenous weeds, luxuriate on the floors and crumbling walls, and the screech owl and raven nestle in the crevices. The outer court was equally spacious as the castle, measuring, as may yet be traced from the foundations of the walls, about one hundred by seventy feet. Ochterlony, writing from personal observation, (circa 1682), says that " it was so large and levell, that of old when they used that sport, they used to play at the foot ball there, and there are still four great growing trees which were the debts."f But, as is the ease with most of the monuments of its # This fragment is figured in corner of Frontispiece, t Spottiswoode Miscellany, vol. i. p. 33fi. EDZELL—FLOWER GARDEN. social and domestic grandeur, tlie " dobts " too, are only traceable in their large wasting roots ; and, together with the chapel and great kitchen, fell, as did the most of what has now disappeared, by the reckless hands of despoiling utilitarians. From the magnificent style in which cookery was conducted at Edzell, and the liberality of its owners to the poor, it was familiarly known by the enviable title of " the kitchen of Angus." Oxen were roasted whole, and everything conducted in a correspondingly sumptuous style ; and daily, after the family had dined, the poor of the parish congregated in the court yard, and taking their seats on the stone benches, (which still remain 011 both sides of the outer entrance passage), they received their quota of beef and beer from the fair hands of the lady or daughters of " the proud house of Edzell." Such is one of the pleasing, among the many painful, traditions which still live regarding this truly great race, whose character, if taken into account with the chivalric period in which they flourished, and their all but princely power and influence, pre¬ sents, as a whole, some of the holiest and happiest traits of human kindness. He who could exercise but a tithe of forbear¬ ance in the unlettered past, or overlook a single inadvertent insult to his lordly dignity, or treat his menials with condescen¬ sion and affability, exhibited a degree of wisdom and charity which, even in our own enlightened age, would add laurels to the brow of many of the nobly born and the religiously educated ; and even in the last laird, who was proverbial for extravagance and haughtiness of disposition, traits of those admirable qualities were not awanting;. © It is, however, in the gorgeous embellishments of the flower garden that the classical taste of the family, and the proficiencv to which native sculpture had then attained, are most apparent. It contains nearly half a Scotch acre, and is still filled with gooseberry and other bushes; and many of the old apple and pear trees, from which the favourite fruit was pulled in days of yore, are in full bearing ; but scarcely a fragrant flower raises its tiny and variegated head within the whole expanse* The magnificent wall, and the fine sculpture with which it is pro- * The space occupied by the castle, including the flower and kitchen garden, is fully two acres Scutch. The kitchen garden has been partly ploughed for some years past, and also con¬ tains some fine old fruit trees. LAND OF TIIE LINDSAYS. fuscly decorated,* and the summer house with beautiful turrets and ceiling of hewn freestone, together with the old part of the house of the Mains (which bore the date 1602), were, as already shewn, the work of the later years of Lord Edzell, with whom, it may be said, the truly mental energy and superior taste of the main line of this great house failed. Not so, certainly, with that of Balcarres: as the paternal house degenerated, the fraternal branch advanced, until by the achievements of many successive members, not only in the senate and battle field, it has now at¬ tained to that ancient dignity from which it was so long and wrongfully excluded; and many of its members have been, and some of them still are, as famous in the quiet instructive walks of literature, as the majority of their old representatives were in the exciting arenas of chivalry and warfare. While the forfeited estates of Panmure were possessed by the York Buildings' Company, the venerable house and plantings of Edzell received the first dilapidating blow.f During that time, in the memorable " forty-six," the Argyle highlanders, who were then persecuting and purging the country of Jacobites, took up their quarters here, and contributed greatly, by all manner of extravagance and outrage, to pollute its time-honoured walls, and despoil its princely grandeur. Common report says that those soldiers were brought thither by the solicitations of the minister of Glcnesk, who was a stern enemy to Episcopacy. It may have been so ; but it is more probable that they had been dispatched to check the daring exploits which an old Jacobite smuggler, of the name of Ferrier, was ever and anon performing in the dis¬ trict. This bold individual mustered upwards of three hundred men in the rebel cause from Glcnesk and Prosen alone, and taking *> For detail of these see Appendix No. IV. I The York Buildings' Company was first a private speculation; but incorporated by Royal Charter in 1(190, for the purpose of raising the water in York Buildings to supply the inhabitants of London. Its objects were extended in 171D, and £1,201,000 were raised as a joint stock subscription for the purchase of the forfeited and other estates, and for granting annuities and life assurances. These speculations proved unfortunate; and, instead of having the free rental of £14,000, on which annuities were secured by infeftment, the Parliamentary enquiry of 1733 shewed that the receipts were only £10,500. The Company was therefore declared insolvent ; and from 1732 the forfeited estates were held by trustees for behoof of annuitants, and being exposed to sale at Edinburgh, on the 20th of February, 1761, the lands were purchased by most of the disinherited families, amongst which were those of Panmure, which were sold to the last Earl for the gross sum of £10,157 18s. 4d. sterling. Of this sum £6,245 13s. 4d. were paid for the lordships of Brccliin and Navar, and £11,951 8s. 9d. for Glcnesk, Edzell, and Lethnot. The Company purchased the Panmure estates from Government in 1719, for £52,824 15s. 8|d. sterling. EDZELL—DILAPIDATION OF THE CASTLE. 57 up his abode at the mouth of the former pass, carried off horses and arms with impunity, from the country betwixt it and Brechin.* Major de Yoisel was at the head of the Argyle highlanders, which were of about an equal number to that of Ferrier's followers, and through Voisel's superior leadership and training, the soldiers soon succeeded in checking the ravages of their opponents. But, it is painful to know, that even during the most rigid stage of feudalism, the inhabitants of those parts never experienced so much tyranny and oppression—not to speak of the utter laxity of all sorts of moral rectitude—as was then exhibited towards them by those legalised marauders, under the guise of Royalty. As the common attendant of a selfish general and reckless army, infamy and crime, in its most revolting shape, stalked su¬ premely over the land for a brief period, and while the Epis¬ copal churches fell under the devouring element, the gleam was prolonged by the mattresses of the worthy pastor and his faithful adherents; and their wives and daughters became the hapless victims of the base and vitiated habits of their heartless persecutors. Although much of the fine carved oak work of the Castle was burned, and otherwise destroyed during these revelries, the whole roof and the gilded vane on the Tower were entire for a considerable period after the din and noise of the soldiers had passed away; but all were ultimately brought to the hammer, and sold for behoof of the Company's creditors, and most of the oaken rafters being purchased by Dundee manufacturers, they were afterwards converted into lays for weavers' looms. In short, from the payment of debts, and by wholesale pillaging, every vestige of human comfort and affluence soon disappeared ; and, not only the vaults, but the dining and drawing rooms, were made dens of thieves and robbers, and a common rendez¬ vous and protection for traffickers in all sorts of illicit goods. Even the iron staunchels of the windows were forcibly wrested from their sockets, and carried off by the blacksmiths of the district, one of whom, a muscular fugitive of the " forty-five," lifted the immense grated door from its hinges, but being unable to trans¬ port it farther at one attempt than the so-called old water track, " Struther's Hist, of Scot., from the Union, vol. ii., p. 350. o8 LAND OF THE LINDSAYS. lie hid it amongst the brushwood, when an envious brother Vulcan tumbled it into a deep pool, where it is believed still to remain. Such was the barbarous manner in which the Castle of Edzell was denuded of its ancient grandeur. The fine approach of majestic trees, which stretched southward from the castle to the old church, forming a beautiful arboreal vault, and, indeed, the whole mass of growing timber—which had doubtless been more valuable for decorative than useful purposes—was brought under the axe at nearly the same time; and from one wanton act and another, more than anything which the iron tooth of Time could have effected, this once magnificent place, the cherished abode of a long race of the most potent barons of the kingdom, has been reduced to its present lowly, and, it may be said, inglorious position. " 'Tis now the raven's bleak abode : 'Tis now the apartment of the toad ; And there the fox securely feeds ; And there the pois'nous adder breeds, Concealed in ruins, moss, and weeds ; "While, ever and anon, there falls Huge heaps of hoary moulder'd walls." Nor did a better fate await the Castle of Auchmull, but its destruction is not to be ascribed to the same party as that of Edzell.—So far, indeed, from its being so, the York Buildings' Company declared that the tenant should " have no concern with the stone house, commonly called the Castle of Auchmull, except in so far as he shall damage it by his use, or neglect of it," in which case he was bound to repair all injury the same as if it had been a part of the mill or farm steading.* It was occu¬ pied by the farmer down to 1772-3, about which time he found it so inconvenient, that he offered to bear the cost of a new house, provided the proprietor would allow him the wood and iron and other materials of the castle with which to erect it. Un¬ fortunately this was acceded to, and ere long the famous re¬ fuge of the murderer of Lord Spynie was sadly mutilated ; and, * Tack—Mr, Francis Grant to Pavid Lindsay, llth Feb., 1756, in possession of liis grandson, the present tenant. EDZELL—AUC'HMULL CASTLE. 59 the work of destruction once begun, had only its limit in the complete annihilation of the stronghold, for although, after building the farm house originally stipulated for, a goodly fabric, in the form of a square tower, similar to that of Invermark, graced the high banks of the romantic rivulet, yet that, too, was de¬ molished for the purpose of building fences and filling drains, and only a small part of the foundations are now traceable. Truly, it may be said, that "heartless man," together with " [Old] Time, hath done his work of ill On statues, fount, and hall ; Ruin'd, and lone, they year by year, Fragment, by fragment fall." OI-iD KTRELYA.RD OF EDZELL, CHAPTER II. Cletusfc. " The little churchyard by the lonely lake, All shaded round by heath-clad mountains hoar; With ruined fane in which the pious met, And raised the supplicating prayer of yore. Here sleeps the Poet who tuned his magic lyre And sung the curious freaks of days gone by ; Here, too, lie those who tilled the lazy soil. And filled the cots which now in ruins lie." SECTION I. Though the church of Glenesk, or Lochlee,* as this fine pastoral district is now indiscriminately termed, is one of the oldest esta¬ blished in the county, little is known of its history beyond the interesting facts of the name of its founder and the period of his settlement. St. Drostan, a saint of the blood royal of Scotland, and Abbot of Donegall in Ireland, was the first who took an interest in the eternal welfare of its inhabitants. On return¬ ing from the sister country, in the eighth century, he took up his abode here, and proclaimed the glad tidings of salvation to the scattered population during the remainder of his long life. He died in the year 809, and his feast is held on the lltli of July. Though Hrostan's relics, like those of most of the Saints, sur¬ vived his decease for many ages, and probably survive and work miracles in some obscure corner to this day, it is not to be supposed that the church, of which the ruins still remain, though said to be of unknown antiquity, was the theatre of his ministry. The little wooden cell in which he dwelt, and every fragment of the rude cross which he raised, have long since passed away—even their exact sites have become unknown. And no great wonder ; 'tis only remarkable that his name should exist in the district even in its present sadly metamorphosed state ; for, it will be perceived that more than a thousand years have rolled past since his fervent and supplicating prayers resounded amongst these mountains, and since the long and mournful train of grateful * Glecmn-uisge, i. e. "the glen of water,"—Loch-le, i. e. "the smooth lake." GLENESK—ST. DEOSTAN'S CHUECH. 61 converts and holy brethren bore his meagre relics across the hills, and had them deposited in a stone chest which was pre¬ pared for them at the church of Aberdour, in Aberdeenshire, of which he was patron.* From the site of the present manse of Glenesk being called " Droustie," and a fountain near by "Droustie's well," it may be inferred that these are corruptions of the name of St. Drostan, and point to the site of his ancient residence and church. " Droustie's Meadow" is also the name of a piece of ground near the parsonage at Tarfside, which, with the exception of the St. Drostan's well already alluded to near the old church of Neudos, are the only places in the district bearing similar designa¬ tions. Though now annexed to Edzell, the parish of Netidos was, from early times a separate cure, and, so far as known, had never any connection with Glenesk; in fact, the situation of the old kirk, and more particularly that of the well (both of which lie considerably east of the glen), are favourable to this idea, and, as previously hinted, the presence of the fountain is only to be taken as implying that the church was dedicated to St. Drostan, whilst Droustie in Glenesk may be considered as the principal place of his residence and ministry. The old kirk, which stands by the side of the Loch, is also sometimes called the " kirk of Droustieand a deep pool in the river Lee, immediately south of the farmhouse of Kirkton, and now used principally for sheep-washing, has, time out of memory, borne the significant appellation of the " Monk's Pool," and so termed, it is said, from the monks having had a right to fish for salmon there during the flesh-proscribed season of Lent; five fine large fish were taken out of it some years ago. From the time of St. Drostan, down to the year 1723, when the district was erected into an independent parish, very little is known of its ecclesiastical history. There is no record of it be¬ fore the time of the Reformation, and, instead of its having any cliaplainries connected with it, it was of itself merely a chap- lainry of the adjoining parish of Lethnot.f About the time of the Reformation, however, a Mr. Hay was appointed reader, with the scanty salary of twenty-four merks a-year, or about • Collections on Aberdeenshire, p. 442,—Spalding Club; Butler's Lives of the Saints. t (a. d, 1640)—Crawford Case, p. 187, LAND OF THE LINDSAYS. twenty-six shillings and ninepence sterling, for which he had to exhort the people in the absence of the minister, who only preached here once every three weeks, " weather permitting and in a district so extensive (for the parish embraces an area ot more than a hundred miles square), and far removed from the residence of the clergyman, the office of reader, if we are to suppose that matters stood then as they did at a later period, had been onerous in the extreme. An augmentation, however, was afterwards made to his salary, by the laird of Edzell, to the extent of two bolls of oatmeal, two crofts of land adjoining the church, and pasture for a horse and cow, and twenty sheep*— items which still augment the coffers of the teacher of Glenesk beyond those of most of his lowland brethren, and tend to com¬ pensate, partially at least, for his lonely abode and meagre attendance of pupils. By decreet of 1717, the gross amount of the minister's stipend was one thousand and fifty pounds Scots ; but in 1723, when the parish was erected, and Navar annexed to Lethnot in its stead, an additional nine hundred and fifty pounds Scots were given, together with a large arable and pasture glebe, and com¬ modious manse.f Erected into a separate parish in 1723, the first clergyman was Mr. Garden, a relative to the factor of the York Buildings' Company, and there being no manse until the year 1750, he and his successors occupied a part of the Castle of Invermark down to that time. Mr. Garden was succeeded by the Be v. Mr. Blair in 1731, who only remained two years, when he was translated to the first charge of the parish of Brechin, and there, in 1760, he established a Sabbath evening school, which is said to have been the first opened in Scotland.:}: Mr. Blair's successor, Mr. Scott, as will be immediately shewn, bore a prominent part in the Episcopal expulsion which followed the great political move¬ ments of the rebellion. Betwixt his death in 1758, and Mr. Inglis' appointment in 1807, the cure was filled by Messrs. Boss and Pirie, the latter of whom wrote the first Statistical Account of the parish. Begisters of the various parochial incidents were commenced * Copy—Settlement by John Lindsay of Edzeil, Aug. 22, 1G59, in Schoolmaster's possession. 1 Old Statistical Acet., vol. v. J Mr. lllair married Christian Doig, heiress of Cooltston and Unthank, near Brechin. GLENESK—PAROCHIAL REGISTER. <53 in 1730, and, while in the keeping of the pains-taking and in¬ genious Mr. Alexander Ross (who was settled here in 1732), they are most interesting and ample regarding all matters touched upon. The inestimable value of baptismal and other registrations were so apparent to him, and the pains which he took to ascer¬ tain particulars so assiduous, as to be worthy the imitation of many of his brethern of the present time ; while the manner in which he deplores the disregard with which his efforts were treated by those whom they were most calculated to benefit, shews the simplicity of his character, and the superiority of his mind, in one of its most benign and single-hearted aspects.—" I designed," he writes, evidently in a tone of unmingled regret, " to have kept a regular accompt of the baptisms in this parish during my incumbency as Session-Clerk, and Precentor; but no man, whether attending kirk or meeting-house \i. e. Episcopal Chapel], ever once desired me to do that office for him, or ever gave me the dues for enrolling their children, except David Christison in Auchrony, that paid me for recording his eldest son, John ; and even the few that are recorded were done by inform¬ ing myself of their names and the time of their baptism the best way I could, so that I hope the world will excuse me when the register is found deficient as to this particular."* When erected into a separate parish, all the inhabitants here, as in Edzell and Lethnot, were either Episcopalians or Roman Catholics, but mainly the former; and owing to the favour with which Episcopacy has always been received in the district, it has flourished here with unabated success ever since its establishment in Scotland. As matter of course, Jacobitism ran high during the rebellion; but the Hanoverian interest had also its friends; and the thanksgiving for "the late victory ob¬ tained at Culloden against the rebels " was religiously observed in the parish church ; and when the elders and kirk session were examined by the committee appointed for investigating these matters, it was found they " had behaved themselves very well during the unnatural rebellion," and that they were well affected to the reigning king and government. The first Episcopal clergyman of which any record exists, was David Rose, father of the late Right Honourable George * Par. Reg., Sept. 21, 1745. 64 LAND OF THE LINDSAYS. Rose, who figured so prominently in political controversy during the latter part of the last century, and the beginning of the pre¬ sent. Little is known of Mr. Rose or his family ; but both he and his wife, who bore the same name, are supposed to have been natives of the parish of Birse. He preached on alternate Sundays at Glenesk and Lethnot, and in various neighbouring districts during the week, and was alike remarkable for his zeal in the cause of Episcopacy as for the forbearance and judgment which he displayed in one of the most trying and critical periods of his churchs' history. The time of his settlement in the district is unknown ; but it must have been sometime before the year 1728, as he gifted a hand bell to the chapel bearing that date, which, although now rarely rung either at kirk or burial, is worthily preserved at the Parsonage.* His principal residence was at Woodside, in the Dunlappie part of the parish of Stracathro, where his distinguished son, George, was born on the 17th of January, I744.j" Mr. Rose died in the month of October, 1758, and was buried within the parish church of Lethnot,\ and his widow spent her latter years in Montrose. In the parochial records, Mr. Rose is always spoken of in the derogatory capacity of " the illegal meeting-house keeper but, from the success which attended his laborious and exemplary ministry, his contemporary, Mr. Scott of the parish church, seems to have felt his cause endangered, and tried in every possible manner to render Mr. Rose and his doctrine obnoxious. He demanded, but never returned, the " marriage pledges" of Episcopalians, except to such as apostatised and became mem¬ bers of his church, and had, besides, the credit of informing against the rebel laird of Balnamoon, who long sculked among the fastnesses of Glenesk after the defeat at Culloden. He was also said to have been instrumental in bringing the Argyle high- landers to the district, and of having the first attempt made to prohibit the wearing of the highland garb.|| These, however, * This bell bears : " mr. david rose gift to glenesk, 1728." t In all biographies, Rose, is erroneously stated to have been born at Brechin, and, on the llt/i of June. The baptismal register of Stracathro bears "George, lawful son toMr. David Rose, Episcopal minister in Woodside, was born on 17th, and baptised on 18th January, 1744." t " To grave room in the kirk, to Mr. Da. Rose, £2."—Lethnot Par. Reg., Dec. 18, 1758. II "1748, Dec. 24; This day read an order prohibiting the wearing that part of the high¬ land dress called the plaid, filibeg, or little kilt, after the 25th curt."—"1749, July 30 ; This day read from the Latron an order from the Sherrifi'of Forfar, discharging every part of the high¬ land dress from being worn after the 1st of August next."—Par. Reg, GLENESK—EPISCOPACY. 65 were government orders, and are thus, perhaps, wrongfully ascribed to him; but it is certain that soon after these occur¬ rences Mr. Scott came suddenly by his death, when passing near the ruins of the Episcopal chapel on the Rowan (which had been burned to the ground by the army), by being thrown from his horse and killed on the spot.* This fatal accident, perhaps from the peculiar place of its occurrence, was viewed by the Jacobite party in the light of retributive justice ; and notwithstanding that Mr. Rose was long obliged to preach to his adherents at the Faulds of Milton in the open air after the burning of his chapel, the cause was rather strengthened than diminished: but death putting a period to his arduous labours, several years elapsed before the appointment of a successor. With the fall of Mr. Rose, the then parochial clergyman, who seems to have had as intolerant a spirit as his predecessor, expected the cause also to fall; but, instead of that, matters went from bad to worse, and as the Episcopa¬ lians had little faith to place in the ministry of those from whom they had experienced so unmitigated oppression, they rather inclined to cherish the Roman Catholic belief, which appeared to some of them, in the circumstances, the least of two evils ; and, accordingly, a "popish priest" was invited from Deeside, and planted his chapel almost at the very door of the parish church.f This decided movement on the part of the Episcopa¬ lians was, perhaps, hastened by the oppressive actions of the parish minister, one of which was his absolute refusal to allow the marriage banns of a worthy couple to be proclaimed, for no other reason than that the woman was " a papist," and would not apostatize and become a member of his church4 Ultimately, however, another Episcopal clergyman came to the district, and soon succeeded, by easy persuasives and winning manners, to effect that which his neighbour had failed to ac¬ complish by intolerant enmity, and another humble church was erected, and raised, Phoenix like, from the ashes of its prede¬ cessor. It was here that Mr. Brown, father of the learned Pre¬ sident of the Linnean Society in London, conducted worship during the whole time of his residence in Glenesk, as did his « "Mr. John Scott, minr. here, died suddenly, near Tarfside, on his way to the presbyterie in Brechine."—Par. Reg., Jan. 24,1758. t Ibid. July IS, 1760. I Ibid. September 17 and 23,1750. E 66 LAND OF THE LINDSAYS. successor, Mr. Davidson, and the late minister, Mr. Jolly, for several years. Thenceforward matters rolled on smoothly, and when the late Rev. David Inglis was inducted to the parish church, the banner of toleration was freely unfurled, and, instead of bickerings and heartburnings, which marked the times of his illiberal predecessors, he and Mr. Jolly met as brethren, and re¬ solved everything for the best where the affairs of individual members of their congregations required ; and exchanged visits on the most friendly and conciliatory terms, living here below as they hoped to live hereafter. Thus, the aspect of Christianity was totally changed in the district, and two years after Mr. Inglis' settlement, the Episco¬ palians, who had long found the inconvenience and comfortless nature of the old chapel on the Rowan, set on foot a subscription for erecting a new edifice, which had been hitherto delayed by the opposition of contemporary parish ministers. An appeal to the public was made for this purpose, and being descriptive of the state of the old church and the peculiar manner of its erection (not to speak of its bearing the full stamp of the cha¬ racteristic simplicity of the good worthy pastor who issued it), it is here printed in full:—" In appealing to the benevolence of the public for aid to rebuild the chapel in Glenesk," writes Mr. Jolly, u it may not be improper to remark that the walls of the present one, which is upwards of seventy feet by fourteen feet, were built by the hands of the congregation in the course of one week, nearly fifty years ago. Of consequence, it cannot be sup¬ posed that a house so hastily built can be now comfortable ; in¬ deed, it is so much the reverse, that the congregation are obliged literally to stand amongst the snow that finds its way at times through the wall during the time of public worship; besides, the roof does not now defend from rain:—it's of heath, and has lasted about thirty years."* Issued in October 1809, this " appeal " had the desired effect; and, in the course of the following year the chapel was erected, and the present neat parsonage built in the following season, towards the latter of which the late Sir George Rose contributed the handsome sum of fifty pounds. Matters now progressed to the best of the minister's wishes—the fortnightly meeting at Lethnot * Kindly communicated by the Rev. Alex. Simpson, the present Incumbent. GLENESK—OLD KIEK. 67 was abolished, and the Episcopalians of that district and of Feme, and many from the parishes of Clova and Birse, made Glenesk their regular place of worship, and after the long period of fifty- seven years' service their pastor was gathered to his fathers, leaving the congregation in a most flourishing state. It has always continued so, and during the ministry of his successor, the present incumbent, and mainly through his exertions, a school has recently been erected in connection with the chapel. Such is a brief view of the history and progress of Episcopacy in Glenesk. The circumstances attending the foundation of the parish have already been alluded to, and nothing of any note is recorded in connexion with it from then till now, except at the memorable disruption of 1843, when, as in other parishes, a number of the members seceded and joined the Free Church. As yet that body have no church, properly so called, but have a settled minister who conducts worship in a spacious sheep cot near Tarfside, where they have also a school. The old parish kirk is situated at the north-east corner of of the Loch, and was thatched with heath down to the year 1784, when it was covered with grey slates. The walls are thick and strongly built, and a loft graced the east or oriel end, which had a special entrance from the graveyard. Although said to be of " unknown antiquity," it is not likely that these walls are older, if so old, as the days of the Marquis of Montrose, for all story agrees that, while he and his soldiers took refuge here in 1645, they burned the church to the ground—and, in all probability, these are the remains of the kirk which was erected after that circumstance. There is certainly nothing inviting about the mode of its architecture ; it being quite of the common barn form which characterises most of our landward churches ; but, from its pecu¬ liarly romantic situation, it possesses many picturesque attrac¬ tions which render it interesting beyond most of its fellows. Perhaps the most remarkable of these features is its proximity to the Loch (which is a fine sheet of water, stretching more than a mile to the north-west, with an average breadth of about a quarter of a mile), to which it lies so close, that in stormy weather the ruins and graveyard are frequently washed by its waters, and covered by the white foaming spray; while. 68 LAND OF THE LINDSAYS. with the exception of a few ash trees which break the sad, but in this case not unpleasant monotony of desolation and solitude, the neighbourhood, like the whole expanse of the glen north¬ ward, is solely decorated by " The desert mountains and lone sky." Within the precincts of this lone cemetery, which has been the favourite resting-place of the hardy natives from time imme¬ morial, lie the remains of the late Reverend Mr. Jolly, of whom we have had occasion to speak so favourably in a preceding page; and, apart from the attractions which we shall shortly see it presents to the lover of Scottish poetry, to us, at least, it has other charms, which, although of a melancholy nature, are far from destitute of interest, and may not be without a moral to others. Near the south-east corner of this enclosure stands a leafless, and almost branchless, tree, battered by the storms, and blighted by the lightnings of several ages. Beside this hoary guard lie the remains of one of the earliest and most interesting acquaintances of our school-boy days. His father and mother died while he was young, and his inclination having led him to follow the ministry, he came to the lowlands for his education, preparatory to entering college. Apt at learning, fond of literary pursuits, and gifted with an extraordinary memory, he seemed, not only from the vast extent of his scripture knowledge, but from a natural gift of oratory, and facility of composition, the best calculated of any to shine in the sacred calling which he was designed to follow. He left school with the highest and fondest hopes of his master and his friends, who expected to behold in him at no distant day a popular labourer in the church, and an ornament to his native district. Years after he went to college, the same opinion was entertained of him by his professors ; but from some untoward and melancholy cause, not now definable, he came to neglect his studies—his evenings were spent in the taproom instead of the closet, and his pen was employed in the service of a scurrilous journal; and he himself, originally of a weakly con¬ stitution, fell a victim to those baneful orgies at the early and interesting age of twenty. He died at a distance, but his anxious relatives gathered his remains to the tomb of his fathers, where he now reposes, disturbed only by the dash of the waves CLENESK—ROSS THE POET. 69 of the lake which lulled him asleep in his childhood, around whose peehled shores his little footsteps wandered in the guileless days of infancy and boyhood ; and where, perhaps, amidst the solemn grandeur of surrounding hills, he felt the first impulse of those decidedly extraordinary and premature acquirements which led all to hope so much and so highly of his future life. But, as already hinted, to the lover of Scottish poetry the " auld kirk yard of Lochlee," must ever be dear, as containing the ashes of the ingenious author of " Helenore, or the Fortunate Shepherdess," and its vicinity as the place where he spent the greater part of his valuable and unostentatious life. The humble head-stone, which he placed at the grave of his wife, Jean Cattanach, faces the pilgrim as he enters the hallowed spot; and there, too, though unrecorded, the corpse of her eminent husband, who taught the " noisy mansion " of the parish for the long period of fifty-two years, was laid on the 26th of May 1784, at the ripe age of eighty-five.* He died at Buskhead, in the house of a relative, where he had gone to reside after the death of his wife, whom he survived for the space of five years, during which time he had these lines engraved on her tombstone :— " What's mortal here ! Death in his right would have it ; The spiritual part returns to God that gave it ; While both at parting did their hopes retain That they in glory would unite again, To reap the harvest of their Faith and Love, And join the song of the Redeem'd above." The place of the poet's residence is still represented by the rude walls of his cottage and school-house, which are preserved with a commendable reverence for genius and worth. They are just a park breadth north of the kirkyard; and in their present roofless condition, have more the appearance of " sheep buglits " than that of once inhabited tenements. The little west window, from which an excellent view of the loch and its rugged barriers had been obtained, is now built up ; but the narrow door by which he passed and repassed times out of number, and the hearth of the east, or school-room end, where he sat so many dreary winters hearing the lessons of his youthful charge, are still in existence, as is also the garden plot behind the house, * "26th May, 1784 ; Mr. Alexander Ross, Schoolmaster at Lochlee was hurried,"—Rar. Reg. 70 LAND OF THE LINDSAYS. which, though now uncultivated, bears a singularly fertile aspect, and had been correspondingly small to the bard's residence. Still, though his accommodation was limited and his abode dreary (there being thirty days in winter that the neighbouring mountains kept the sun from enlivening his dwelling), he unex¬ pectedly achieved an imperishable fame in Scottish literature. He also reared a large family, and his daughter, Helen, was mother of the late Rev. Mr. Thomson of Lintrathen, who wrote the best biography of his grandfather, and published the best edition of his poems at Dundee, in 1812.* Apart from the romantic descrip¬ tion of the rural life and manners of the early part of last century, with which the poem of " Helenore " abounds, and which are familiar to all lovers of national poetry, Mr. Thomson's life of the author, though less generally known, also preserves some of the still later peculiarities of " the leal and ae-fauld herding life,' particularly as relates to Lochlee, in a manner little short of that given in the poem itself. As the biography of Ross is familiar to most readers, and little can be added to that written by his grandson, we shall simply remark that he was born in the parish of Kincardine O'Neil, in Aberdeenshire, and was nearly seventy years of age before he published his poems. Besides his large poem of " Helenore," he wrote the popular songs of " The rock an' the wee pickle tow," " To the beggin' we will go," " Woo'd and married an' a'," and many others, all of which are remarkable for their natural humour, force of language, and the striking pictures which they convey of the manners and customs of the past, and are frequently quoted by the great Scottish lexicographer, Dr. Jamieson, in illustration of many abstruse terms. As these poems have been long a valuable part of the classics of the peasantry, and equally familiar to those, at least, between the Tay and the Spey, as are the works of Burns, none of them require to be repeated here; but a transcript of the mortuary poetry, from some of the old gravestones at Lochlee? reputed to be Ross' compositions, may not be unacceptable. The * These parochial entries may be interesting :—" 1734, Sept. 9 ; Mr. Alexander Ross, school¬ master here, had a daughter baptised by Mr. John Scott, minister here [named] Helen." And on 28th October, 1753, " George Thomson, schoolmaster in Glenmuick and Helen Ross, eldest daughter to Mr. Alexander Ross, schoolmaster here, proclaimed in order to marriage Io and on 8th Nov. following, they were " married in the church of Lochlee by William M'Kenzie, minr. of Glenmuick." ULENESK—OLD KIKKYARD. 71 first of these was erected in 1751, to the memory of a youth, who perished amongst a quantity of heather which accidentally took fire around him ; and, it will be perceived, that the conclu¬ sions drawn from the melancholy circumstance are fully as quaint in conception as in expression :— " From what befalls us here below, Let none from thence conclude, Our lot shall aftertime be so— The young man's life was good. Yet, heavenly wisdom thought it fit, In its all sovereign way, The flames to kill him to permit, And so to close his day." The next was written on Mr. Charles Garden of Bellastreen, in Aboyne, a relative of the family of Garden of Troup, who were tacksmen or factors for the Panmure and Southesk portions of the forfeited estates. This gentleman, who appears from his motto to have been everything that could be wished, died at the patri¬ archal age of ninety in 1761, and the epitaph is decidedly the best specimen of the author's powers in this way with which we have met:— " Entomb'd hero lies what's mortal of the man, Who fill'd with honour Life's extended span ; Of stature handsome, front erect and fair, Of dauntless brow, yet mild and debonair. The camp engaged his youth, and would his age, Had cares domestic not recall'd his stage, By claim of blood, to represent a line, That but for him was ready to decline. He was the Husband, Father, Neighbour, Friend, And all their special properties sustained. Of prudent conduct, and of morals sound, And who, at last, with length of days was crown'd." The other, which is ascribed to Ross, and bearing the same date as Mr. Garden's, is altogether so unworthy of his mind, and unlike his style of composition, that we forbear giving it, being convinced that it is the work of another and worthless rhymester. These two epitaphs now cited, with that written on the death of his wife, are, so far as we know, the amount of Ross' work in that line, though we cannot help thinking that Garden's epitaph 72 LAND OF THE LINDSAYS. savours more of Dr. Beattie's manner than of anything which we have ever seen by Boss. Be this as it may, we have also in this lonely churchyard, and engraved upon a stone of date 1801, this couplet from the quaint and celebrated epitaph which is said to have graced the tomb of Theodore, the unfortunate King of Corsica:— " The Grave, great Teacher, to one level brings, Heroes, and Beggars, Galley Slaves, and Kings."* Although the period of the erection of the old church is matter of uncertainty, the age of the kirk bell is well authenti¬ cated, for towards the close of the year 1752, the records state " that there never was a bell upon the church of Lochlee, but an old hand bell without a tongue,'1'1 and the session accordingly re¬ solved to purchase one at the least possible expense. For obtain¬ ing this, a collection was made throughout the parish ; but being short of the required amount, " some of the old ash timber that was growing about the church," and " an old stithy" which belonged to the poor of the parish, and the tongueless bell to boot, were sold, for the purpose of purchasing the present bell, which, at the erection of the new kirk in 1803, was translated thither. The present church and manse were both erected in the same year, and the late Bev. Mr. Inglis' mother, who died in 1808, was the first interred in the new burial-place. Since then, with the exception of old residenters, who still have a natural desire to lie beside their kindred, the new kirkyard has become the common place of sepulture, and contains some respectable monu¬ ments. Perhaps the most generally interesting of these is the neat tablet of Aberdeen granite which was erected by subscription, some years ago, in honour of Boss the Poet. Though pleasing to find respect paid to the memory of departed worth, it certainly seems odd that the stone should be raised at this place, for, apart from its being fully a mile from the real sanctuary of the bard, scarcely one in twenty pilgrims visit this who visit the old burial ground, and many leave the district with the impression that this * (Frobisher's Epitaphs, Lond. p. 50.)—The oldest monument in Lochlee is a mural table* with Latin motto. It is considerably effaced, and was erected some years before the oldest above quoted, by the Rev. .Robert Garden of St. Fergus, in memory of his parents, John Garden of Midstratb, in the parish of Birse, and Catherine Farquharson, both of whom died at Inver. marlt, the former in the year 1745, and the latter in 1735. glenesiv—new kirkyard. 73 markable poet (who has delineated so faithfully the manners and customs of an age which has passed comparatively unrecorded)? lies without any tangible tribute to his worth and genius. The following is the motto, and perhaps it is not yet too late to have the evil remedied, by removing the monument to its proper place:— "erected to the memory op ALEXANDER ROSS, A.M., schoolmaster of lochlee, author of 'lindy and noby : or the fortunate shepherdess,' and other poems in the scottish dialect. born, april 1699. died, may 1781. how finely nature aye he paintit, o' sense in rhyme he ne'er was stintit, an' to the heart he always sent it ' wl' might an' main ;' an no ae line he e'er inventit need ane offen'! " It is worthy of notice that some of the tablets in this grave¬ yard bear more than an ordinary interest, arising from the cir¬ cumstances of a premature and painful nature, which attended the death of those to whom they are erected. One marks the grave of a youth from Aberdeen who perished amongst the snow in 1810 ; and another, the melancholy death of two brothers who fell over the wild precipice of Gripdyke in Glenmark, while col¬ lecting their father's sheep. This sad occurrence is recorded on their tombstone in elegant Latinity, which was written under the direction of their brother, the He v. John Whyte, present minister of Lethnot, by whom the following observations and accompanying translation, have been kindly communicated " I have little to remark regarding the sad accident," says Mr. Whyte. " The two brothers had, but a few days before, left their usual residence in Glenbervie, for the purpose of as¬ sisting in collecting and assorting the flock of sheep intended for sale at the ensuing Cullew Market," purposing to return after accomplishing that object. The fatal spot has from time imme¬ morial been known under the name of the Gripdyke, from the * Cullew Fait' is lield in the parish of Cortachy, on the Monday before the 13th Oct., annually. u 74 LAND OF THE LINDSAYS. circumstance of a dyke, or wall, having in former times been reared there, with a view to prevent the flocks of highland black cattle, then customarily grazed in the glen during the summer and autumnal months, from coming down upon the inland pas¬ tures and cultivated lands. The place where they intended to cross the Mark is so narrow that almost any person might easily effect the leap ; but the rocks are sloping on the opposite side, and when wet with the spray of the swollen stream are extremely slippery, and demand some care and dexterity on the part of the pedestrian. The shepherds were quite in the habit of crossing there, and Archibald, being agile and good at leaping, could have had no difficulty in clearing the distance ; but it is said, that from over confidence perhaps, he made the effort carelessly, with his hands in his pockets ; and thus losing his equilibrium, fell back into the rapid torrent, and was speedily carried over the fall into the gulf below—a black boiling abyss, or pot, where the chafed waters wheel in circling eddies round the sides of their rocky barriers. The distance from the spot where he fell in to the edge of the precipice is so short, that David, had he reflected, could have had no hope of saving his life ; but, the impulse of affection disdaining cold calculation, he flung himself into the foaming stream, and shared the fate of his beloved brother !"— The following is the translation of the epitaph referred to :— " In memory of David Wiiyte, aged 28, and of his younger brother, Archibald Wiiyte, aged 18. "As the two brothers were proceeding to leap across at a spot where the Mark, contracted by craggy rocks on either side into a narrow and rapid torrent, anon pours headlong over a high precipice into a deep eddying abyss, when the elder, having already crossed with facility, perceived that his brother had fallen into the impetuous stream, urged by the impulse of holy affection and by the vain hope of saving his life, rushed in heedlessly after him, and both lamentably perished together, on the 27th of October, 1820, in the glen (or valley) of Mark, parish of Lochlee, and county of Forfar. "To commemorate the premature death, as well as the illustrious ex¬ ample of mutual affection, the talents, the piety, and other excellent endow¬ ments which adorned the hapless brothers—Alas ! so suddenly snatched away from their weeping relatives !—this monument was erected by their bereaved and disconsolate father, James Wiiyte." The ashes of the late worthy Mr. Inglis, already referred to, also repose here, covered with a tablet and suitable inscrip- GLENESK—: NEW KIKKYAKD. 7.1 tion. To a benign and conciliatory disposition he added those of charity and benevolence ; and, when the wanderings of the disciples of Edie Ochiltree were rather encouraged than prohi¬ bited, his house was a well known and welcome resting place " to all the vagrant train," being situate at the south side of the great highland pass by Mount Keen to Deeside. Perhaps 110 minister ever approached closer to the beautiful description which Goldsmith has left of his father than the late Mr. Inglis; and, although he enjoyed, in reality, more than " forty pounds a- year," it is questionable, when his many charities are taken into account, whether he had much more to defray the expenses of a large family; but, alike with the hero of that inimitable poem— " Remote from towns he run his godly race, Nor e'er had chang'd, nor wish'd to change, his place. Unskilful he to fawn, or seek for power, By doctrines fashion'd to the varying hour : Far other aims his heart had learn'd to prize, More bent to raise the wretched than to rise." Nor was it alone the homeless wanderer, or " ruined spend¬ thrift," who had their claims so often and so liberally allowed by Mr. Inglis, whose kindness gave so largely and generally, that his manse has been likened more to an inn than to a private resid¬ ence. He used to tell an amusing story of a gentleman who had come over the hill one day on horseback, when several pleasure parties were in the glen. The vehicles were, as usual, ensconsed around the manse, and the minister was amusing himself alone in the garden. Believing it to be a bona fide inn, and Mr. Inglis the landlord, the traveller leapt from his nag, and called on his reverence to stable it up! No sooner said than done ; Mr. Inglis, who was as fond of a joke as he was generous of heart, led the animal to the stable 5 and the rider having seen his horse " all right," entered the house and called for a dram. The minister, still acting as " mine host," brought the glass and big-bellied bottle, and good humouredly supplied the demand; nor was it until the hour of his departure, when the bill was sought, that the stranger discovered his mistake, when his surprise may be better conceived than expressed! M any similar traits are told of the hospitality of this worthy man, who died in January 1837, and, 76 LAND OF THE LINDSAYS. in the emphatic language of many of his parishioners, " the glen has never been like the same place since." Mr. Inglis1 tomb also intimates the death of a youth who resided with him for some time, and who had spent a few of his earlier years in the navy. He was the son of General Hart of Doe-castle, Kilderry, Ireland, and died in 1836, at the early age of twenty-five.. His brother and sister had made a journey to visit him in Glenesk, and while resting at the Gannochy Bridge on their way thither, they accidentally received the melancholy in¬ telligence of his death. On this sad occurrence, his brother wrote the subjoined verses, the first of which is engraved on the tomb. Since then, the affectionate hand which wrote the monody has also been gathered to its fathers, and, barring the kindly recollec¬ tion which many of the mountaineers have of him here lamented, nothing more is known of the family in the district:— " Far from his Father's home he rests, Cut off in early bloom ; Trusting to God, and his behests, He sank into the Tomb. Best tlice, my Brother, death is sweet, When hope to us may be, That friends on earth, in Heaven meet, For blest eternity. Thy earth to mother earth is gone, Best then, my Brother dear ; Thy soul to blest abodes is flown, And left us weeping here. Farewell ! farewell ! ye mountains wild, Which compass him around ; Farewell, each spot on which ho smil'd ; Farewell, yon streamlet's sound !" GLENESK—IN YEItMAltK CASTLE. 77 SECTION II. " The high wa's o' Lord Lindsay's tower Are sadly ruin'd an' lane; An' the birks that twined liis lady's bower For ever too are gane. But, though his power has left thae glens, An' ither lords dwell there, The Lindsay's warlike deeds an' name Will live for evermair." Old Ballad. Down to about the beginning of this century, the fine baronial remain of Invermark Castle was in much the same state of pre¬ servation as during the palmy days of the Lindsays, being entered by a huge draw bridge, one end of which rested on the door sill of the second floor of the castle, and the other on the top of a strong isolated erection of freestone, which stood about twelve feet south of the front of the tower. This was ascended on the east and west by a flight of steps, and the bridge being moved by machinery, the house was rendered inaccessible at the will of the occupant. At the time alluded to, it was surrounded by the old offices, which were tenanted by shepherds, while the main building was occupied by two maiden ladies, daughters of the last of the Gardens, who were sub-tacksmen of the estates while in the hands of the trustees of the York Buildings' Company. Subsequently to the year 1723, the castle, as before said, was jointly occupied by Mr. Garden and the parish minister until a manse was erected, after which, the former and his heirs were the sole tenants; but when the present church and manse were reared in 1803, the offices were torn down, and the tower completely gutted to assist in their erection. The foundations of many of the outhouses are yet traceable; and, however much the dilapidations of 1803 are to be deplored, the main tower, though roofless and sadly spoiled, is still a massive and imposing square structure of four stories in height. It stands on a rising ground on the banks of the Lee, distant from any tree or other protective feature, and, with the exception ot the lintels of the door and windows, is wholly built ot rough native granite, having the monotony of its architecture nicely relieved bv a few well-proportioned windows of various sizes, 78 LAND OF THE LINDSAYS. together with a circular doorway, and fine turret, which projects from the south-east corner. The heavy door of grated iron, remarkable alike for its strength and simplicity of workmanship, still graces the entrance, which is now reached by a flight of crazy stones. This gate is quite analogous in construction to that of Inverquharity (which Alexander Ogilvy had special license from James VI. to erect in the year 1573), and, together with the remaining iron work, is said to have been dug from the mines in the neighbourhood, and smelted at a place on the farm of Tarfside, known by the name of Bonny Katie, where Lord Edzell had a smelting fur¬ nace. The only floor in the building is that formed by the roof of the vault; and the hearth of the drawing room, and some of the lesser fire places, with pieces of joists projecting here and there from the walls, are the only traces of old furnishings. The dark comfortless dungeon below, enlivened only by a faint glimmer of light which peers through a few of those loop-holes common to the baronial remains of the period, is reached by a shattered stair, but presents nothing worthy of note. The tower derives its name from its proximity to the mouth of the river Mark,* to which, from existing traces of an old water track, it had once been closer ; and, from the remains of a fosse on the west side of the hillock on which the castle stands, it is probable that it had once been moated. The real era of its erection is as much a matter of doubt as that of the Stirling Tower of Edzell, and nothing can be gathered from the manner of its architecture that tends in any way to unravel the mystery. Some suppose it to have been built in the sixteenth century, and the late minister fixes the year 1526 as the period, but does not cite any authority. Per¬ haps, however, this was the same building in which the ninth Earl of Crawford died: it certainly, at a later period, was one of the resorts of his unfortunate grandson, when skulking from the pursuit of justice, for his inadvertant slaughter of Lord Spynie, and it is probable that its site had been that of previous strongholds, from the fact that it commands the important pass by Mount Keen to Deeside,f which, although unfitted for wheeled * Slark is the Norse word for " forest"—hence Glenmark means "the forest glen." t " The cheitfe passages from the river Tay to the river Dee through the mountans, a lso GLENE8K—THE CATERAN. 79 conveyances of any sort, was a pretty safe and convenient means of transit for the pillaging Cateran, who, as is well known, sub¬ sisted by the practice of " the good old plan— That they should take who have the power, And they should keep who can." Although the garrison of Invermark had tended greatly to diminish the number of these desperate invasions, it does not appear to have been altogether effectual, as yet attested both by record and tradition. In one of these inroads the Cateran is said to have carried off in triumph about the half of the cattle and sheep in the glen; and, in attempting to regain them, no fewer than five of the Glenesk men fell in the struggle, while about a dozen were taken prisoners and carried to the distant home of the reaver, and only restored to their friends on the payment of heavy ransoms. The lawless outrages of the son of the " Wicked Master," and of the Marquis of Montrose in these glens, and the sad results arising therefrom, have already been noticed; and, although the inhabitants, according to two credible writers of the seventeenth century,* were a set of " weill armed pretty men," who mustered so strongly, and fought so bravely, when the Cateran made their unwelcome visits, that " they seldom suffered any prey to goe out of their bounds unrecovered"—this does not appear to have been always the case, for when the Laird of Edzell mortified a grant to the reader or schoolmaster in 1659, he bound himself " that if it shall come to pass that ther be a general vastation of the said paroche of Loghlie be Hielanders or otherwise, that ther, and in that case," the Laird and his heirs were " obliigst to pay to the said reader the whole stipend year or ycaries as the sam vastatione sail endure, "f from Aberdeinc to the heado of Dee, are elewin. The nynthe is Mounthe Keine, wich layes from Innermarkie to Canakyle, oil Deeside, and containes ten myles of monthe."—Sir James Bal¬ four's M.S., 1630-57, Adv. Lib., Coll. Aberd. and Banff, p. 77. * Edward's Description of Angus in 1678, and Ochterlony's Acct., c. 1682.—" The Angusians, especially those who inhabit the Grampians, are, even at this day (1678), fond of going abroad armed; insomuch, that they seldom go out without the ornament, or rather burden, of a bow, quiver, shield, sword, or pistol; and they always have with them a kind of hook, to knock down or catch wild beasts or birds, as occasion may offer." t Document, quoted ut sup, p. 62. 80 LAND OF THE LINDSAYS. Some of these disasters were recorded in the measured strains of rude local minstrelsy, but all recollection of the verses have long since died away, and the following was written by a modern poet on hearing one of these traditions related:— Mountbattock, how dark is the cloud on thy brow, How grateful its gloom to the valley below ; For the hand of the reaver has smitten so sore, The days of our mourning will never be o'er. He came in the night—he has taken aud slain The wale of our flocks, and the flower of our men ; The maidens, the widows, and orphans deplore, And the hollow wind murmurs—Lochaber no more. The fold now is silent, the shieling is still, No herd in the valley, no flock on the hill ; No gay singing maiden a-milking the cows, No blithe whistling shepherd a-bughting the ewes. The sward of Gleneflock is shining in red ; The down of the thistle with crimson is dyed ; The bloom of the heather is steeping in gore, And the wild bee is humming—Lochaber no more !* But, according to the best historians, this district was asso¬ ciated with other and more creditable transactions than the forays of Montrose and the Cateran. During the wars of the Scottish Independence, while Bruce was retiring southward with his army, after the capture of the castle of Inverness and other northern fortresses, his progress was intercepted here by Comyn, Earl of Buchan, on the 25th of December 1307. Tytler takes no notice of this circumstance, beyond the fact of Comyn being aided in his rising by the king's nephew, Sir David de Brechin, and Sir John Mowbray; but Buchanan says that " when Bruce was come to the forest through which the river Esk falls down into the plains of Merns, Cumin overtook him at a place called Glenesk. Bruce, perceiving that the narrowness of the passages was advantageous to his men, being few in number, stood ready to fight, expecting his enemy. Cumin drew out his army at length, imagining that Bruce would be astonished at the sight of such a multitude; but when he saw that he stirred not from the place, and being also conscious of the weakness of his men, he durst not draw them forth into a place of greater disad- * Laing's Wajside Flowers, p. 52, second edition. LlLEXEfciK—(JOMYX AXD JHiUCE. M vantage." Comyn, accordingly, found it advisable to sue for a truce, which was granted to him on the faith of his retiring from the contest and becoming an obedient subject; while others affirm, that on the approach of Bruce, Buchan's troops imme¬ diately fled.* These warriors are locally said to have fought-a bloody battle here, and the artificial-looking cairns which lie scattered along the south-east side of llowan hill are called the graves of the slain ; and the name of the mountain is said to have had its ori¬ gin in the adventure of that day, when, as the tradition runs, the king rallied his forces by calling out Bow-in ! f In the midst of these cairns, by the side of the old road across the hill, a large whinstone, with the rudely incised figure of a cross, is pointed out, as that on which Bruce planted his standard; j and another stone among the birks at Ardoch, bearing a few oblique lines, as that on which he sharpened his sioord after the engagement! It is not improbable that the stone bearing a cross upon it may have been here in the days of Bruce, and long before, and may have been connected with St. Drostan's religious esta¬ blishment, for " Droustie's Meadow " is at no great distance from the spot; and as the stone has been removed from another part of the hill and placed in its present position within the memory of old inhabitants, it may have been brought originally from the " Meadow," or, perhaps, from the more distant site of the supposed primitive church at Droustie. About the time of Bruce and Comyn's alleged meeting here, the former was so seriously indisposed, that his life was despaired of, and on all occasions he avoided battle: for, instead of being able to mount a prancing charger, ho was so weak that his soldiers had to carry him on a litter, and he continued in that state down to the battle of Old Meldrum, which was fought on the 22nd of May in the following year, when he defeated Buchan with great slaughter, and harried his possessions. Thus, every circumstance combines to sIioav that the idea of Bruce having fought here has 110 foundation ; * Palrymple's Annals of Scot., vol. ii.p.20, edit. 1797; Tytlcr's Ilist. of Scot., vol. i. p. 202 ; * Ruclianan, vol. i. p. 225, edit. 1799 ; llolinsliead's Chronicle, vol. i. p. 433, edit. 1805. t i. e. " Uall in." Gael. Voinn, means a "point," and is quite descriptive of Rowan Hill, which lias more of a pointed character than any ot its fellows. } Figured in wood-cut at end of this Chapter. II 82 LAND OF THE LINDSAYS. and although elf-shot or flint arrow heads, and other remains of early warfare, have occasionally been found buried in these cairns, they must have belonged to heroes of earlier times than those of Bruce, and to conflicts unrecorded. Next to these historical incidents, those relating to the " minerals of gold, silver, brass, and tin," which were first dis¬ covered in the time of Sir David Lindsay, are the most remark¬ able. Both Sir David and his brother Lord Menmuir, were anxious to ascertain the extent of these, and entered so eagerly upon the work, that miners were brought from Germany and other places, with the view of working them. Smelting houses were erected in various parts of the district, and the work was carried on with great spirit by a German of the pugilistic name of Fechtenburg, whom Lord Menmuir strongly recommended to his brother as being "perfyt in kenning of ground and discovering of metals."* This happened in 1593-4, and it would appear that the work had been remunerative, for on the 12th of October 1602, Sir David let to Hans Ziegler " and his companions all and sundry the mines of gold, silver, quicksilver, copper, tin, and lead, and all other minerals (except iron and marmor) within all the bounds of the barony of Edzell and Glenesk " for the space of twenty-five years, for which they were "thankfully to pay and deliver the fifth part of all and sundry the saide metals of gold, silver, &c., whilk the said Hans, his partners, shall happen to dig, hoik, work, and win out of the said mines ;"f and from that period down to the close of the seventeenth century, they were steadily wrought, with, at least, partial success; for, after the lead was extracted, and the metal properly refined, some portions were found to yield a sixty-fourth part of silver.}: These mines appear, however, though their fame had become so great that they were noticed in all topographical books of the * Lives, vol. i. p. 343, where Lord Menmuir's letter is printed in full. ] Ibid. p. 345. J Mr. Edwards, in his Description of Angus in 1678, says " The great-grandfather of the present proprietor of Edzell [Sir David Lindsay, who was knighted, 1581] discovered a mine of iron at the wood of Dalbog, and built a smelting house for preparing the metal. This gentle¬ man's grandson [John of Edzell] found some lead ore near Innermark, which he refined. The son of this latter [David, the penultimate laird] found a very rich mine of lead on the banks of the Mark, about a mile up the valley from the castle of Innermark. In a mountain of hard rock, where eighteen miners are digging deeper every day, they have come to a large vein of ore, which, when the lead is extracted and properly refined, yields a sixty-fourth part of silver. This vein seems to be inexhaustible." The mine last alluded to is that of Craig Bristaeh, or "the rock of fissures." The lead is yet quite visible, and is contained in a vertical seam of quartz from eighteen inches to two feet in thickness, and runs into compact gneiss rock. glenesk—minerals. 83 period, to have fallen into disuse during the time of the last laird, and were not again wrought until 1728, when the South Sea Company tried to find silver in the mine at Craig Soales, but the overseer of the work being bribed, as the common tra¬ dition runs, the work was given over, as an irremunerative con¬ cern, and neither gold nor silver, nor mineral of any sort, save lime, has since been tried for. According to some accounts, silver is also to be found near the castle of Invennark ; and the still more precious metal of gold is said to abound in the Tarf, particularly at Grade's Linn (a place so called from a person of that name having been drowned there), where it is said to have been so plentiful at one time, that a lucky lad, in passing the ford, gathered his pockets full of it! Iron also is said to abound here, as well as at Dalbog, and a vein of copper is said to be in an old quarry at Dalbrack,—yet, with all these temptations, and in the present rage for gold digging, even some of the inhabitants of Glenesk have shewn a preference for the distant mines of Aus¬ tralia, and it is not now likely, without the revival of some such " bubble " as that of the South Sea, that those of Glenesk will again be wrought. SECTION III. " The mouldering cell, Where erst the sons of Superstition trod, Tottering upon the verdant meadows, tell— We better know, but less adore our God." ClIATTERTON. The historical and traditionary peculiarities of the beautiful valley of Glenmark, though few, are not unworthy of notice. One of these belongs to the history of the unfortunate young Edzell, to whom we have so often had occasion to allude, and who, while lurking among the fastnesses in this quarter, was unwarily sur¬ prised one day by his heartless relative, the Earl of Crawford, and a band of followers. Being unarmed, he bounded from his pursuers with the speed of a roe, and making a desperate leap over a wild rocky chasm of the Mark, landed safe on the opposite side, and got within his castle long before his enemies could make up with him, some of whom, in their eagerness to catch him, are 84 LAND OF THE LINDSAYS. said to have missed footing, and been dashed to pieces over the precipice. Ever since the time of this adventure, the place has been known by the name of " Eagil's Loup." This glen was as serviceable to some of the proscribed Jacobite leaders of the " forty-five," as it was to young Edzcll. Near the foot of Curmaud Hill, a large natural cavity, with a small opening, is still known as " Bonnymune's Cave," and here the rebel laird of that title long contrived to evade his pursuers. The neighbouring farmer, and many of the inhabitants, not only knew that Balnamoon resided there, but made him their welcome guest on all safe occasions, and, notwithstanding heavy bribes, and the vigilance of spies, the place of his resort was never divulged. The then parish clergyman, however, who we have seen was the sworn enemy of Episcopacy, was useful to the reigning powers even in the degrading capacity of a public informer, and by his hcartlessness, it is said, the enemy were put on the scent of this famous fugitive. One cold rainy day, when he had gone to the farm house to warm himself, and while sitting by the wide chimney of the kitchen, a party of soldiers entered the house in search of him, and the farmer, urging them to partake of his hospitality, gruffly ordered Balnamoon, who was in the guise of a poor hind, and frightened to move from the spot, to go and clean the byres, and give place to the strangers. The hint was sufficient: Balnamoon moved from the kitchen as he best could, and betaking himself to his cave, was once more without their reach. He was ultimately arrested, however, but being set at liberty in consequence of " a misnomer," he retired to his family seat; and, as long as he lived, shewed his gratitude to the worthy farmer of Glenmark, by making him his familiar guest on all occasions when he came to the low country. " Johnny Kidd's Hole," in the same glen, is mainly remark¬ able as a natural curiosity, and is so exactly described by the industrious Mr. Edward of Murroes, that, although nearly two hundred years have elapsed, the description is yet good, and may be safely adopted.—" In the valley of the Mark," he writes, " four miles west from Innermarkie, there is a cave with a roof of stone, from the chinks of which there drops some water, which petrifies into a substance resembling crystal, of the form (i LEXE.SK—LOCKING STONE OF GILFUMMAN. 85 ot diamonds, with three, four, and six sides." It is not known why this hole received the homely name it now bears,—some say it arose from being the resort of a freebooter, and others, of a shepherd, who bore the name. Be that as it may, however, in the same vicinity, and within the recollection of some living in¬ habitants, the rocking stone of Gilfumman was an entire and interesting object. There is no trace of any so-called Druidical temple in this glen, but being near Droustie, the rocking stone may have had some effect, in those days when Christianity was seen through an indistinct and narrow haze, of inducing St. Drostan to settle in Glenesk. The stone was well known in the neighbourhood, and long considered an infallible discloser of future events ; but some mischievous idlers having removed it from its magic pivot, it now lies a large unheeded block, at the foot of the mountains. Of all so-called Druidical remains the rocking stones are by far the most wonderful. They are found in sequestered dells, and in the beds of rivers, but mostly on the tops or sides of mountains, and are so exactly poised on two or three lesser stones, and about three or four feet from the ground, that a touch with the finger, or a breath of wind, sets them in motion. Such were the celebrated rocks of Gygonia and Ilarpassa, men¬ tioned by Pliny and Ptolemy, both of which could be made to vibrate with the stalk of an asphodel, but could not be moved from their position by the combined force of many individuals. "No evidences of ancient skill or of primitive superstitious rites," says the learned Dr. Daniel Wilson, " are more calculated to awaken our astonishment and admiration of their singular con¬ structors. There is so strange a mixture of extreme rudeness and great mechanical skill in these memorials of the remote past, that they excite greater wonder and awe in the thoughtful mind than even the imposing masses inclosing the sacred area of Stonc- henge or the circle of Stennis."* Specimens of those extraordinary memorials are found in almost every known country, and uniformly bear names indi¬ cative of this singular property. In Phoenicia they are called Ba'ty-lia, i. e. " the moving or animated stones," and are attri¬ buted to the special fabrication of Ouranos, or Heaven. Tn Tro- f rrchLtnric Annals of Scotland, p. 117. 86 LAND OF T1IE LINDSAYS. land, where eight of them are known to exist, they arc called cloch-chriolhir, or "trembling stones;"*' while in England, and some parts of Scotland, they are denominated logan-stones, to which the Scottish word " shogin " (the act of shaking backward and forward) seems to be a synonym. Some good specimens are still in various parts of Scotland—such as those at Kells, Beith, Kirkmichael, and Dron; and, until the year 1843, the county of Angus possessed two excellent examples in addition to that of Gilfumman. These were in the parish of Kirriemuir, on the small estate of Ilillhead, and, as may be supposed, were the com¬ mon resort of plodding antiquarians, and all lovers of national curiosities, while the inhabitants of the district looked upon them with all the veneration and wonder which the remains of a remote age involuntarily inspire; but, unfortunately, those time- honoured monoliths are now no more, having been blown to pieces by gunpowder, and employed in building dykes and drains, at the late period above noticed !f There are many conjectures as to the use of these singular monuments; but the general belief is, that they were used for purposes of ordeal; and Toland remarks, that the priests made the people believe that they only could move them, and that by a miracle, by which they condemned or acquitted the ac¬ cused, and often brought criminals to confess what in no other way could be extorted from them 4 Mason, in his excellent tragedy of " Caractacus," where many of the prominent rites of Druidism are beautifully detailed, remarks, in reference to the supposed power of the rocking stone— " It moves obsequious to the gentlest touch Of him whose breast is pure ; but to a traitor, " Windele's Notices of Cork, p. 271. t These stones are thus described in the New Statistical Account of Forfarshire (p. 119): "One of them is a block of whinstone, nearly oval, and is three feet three inches iu height, nine feet in length, and four feet ten inches in breadth. The other, of Lintrathen porphyry, is two feet in height, eight feet in length, and five feet in breadth." } Iluddleston's edit.—Toland, who was born in 1670, is principally known as a deistical writer ; but his History of the Druids, which was written in a series of letters to Lord Molcsworth, is considered the best authority on the subject which has hitherto appeared. Robert Iluddleston, the learned editor of this edition, was a native of the parish of Closeburn, Dumfries-shire, and educated first at the Wallaceliall Seminary there, and subsequently at the University of Edin¬ burgh, where he took the degree of A.M. Ho was sometime employed as a teacher at Kirk¬ michael, and was appointed Parochial Schoolmaster of Luuan, in Forfarshire, on the 27th of August 1789. He was an industrious writer on antiquities, and large contributor to the Scots Magazine of the time, and died on the 27th of February 1821, aged 53, leaving a widow and large family, some of whom still survive, GLENESK—STANDING STONES OF COLMEALLIE. 87 Though e'en a giant's prowess nerved his arm, It stands as fixed as Snowdon." But, the most tangible prehistoric remains in the district are the " Stannin' Stanes," or, as they are more frequently termed, the Druidical circles of Colmeallie. Stonchenge, in Wilts, is well known to be the most magnificent of those vestigia in Great Britain, there being no fewer than ninety-seven enormous stones ranged in circles, covering an area of nearly a hundred acres. All such relics have been long indiscriminately called temples, or places of heathen worship ; but from human remains being found within many of them, modern antiquarians suppose that they were rather used as primitive places of sepulture—an idea which the finding of stone cists within the now obsolete circles at Dalbog and at Ballownie tends greatly to strengthen.* Still, it is probable that such places may have been used for both purposes ; and this appears the more likely from the fact, that in the early ages cemeteries gave rise to temples in other coun¬ tries, for Clemens observes that the tombs of the Athenians were the origin of all their churches, and that the first place of worship in the Acropolis of Athens was the sepulchre of Cecrops. A want of uniformity in the size and construction of these circles is also urged against the idea of their having been temples; but this scarcely seems tenable, for, apart from the obvious fact, that churches had been constructed in early times as they are at present to suit the tastes and number of the population, Socrates of Constantinople, the continuator of Eusebius' church history, shews that the primitive christians were less fastidious in the rearing of their churches than modern writers would have us believe, for he says that even the altar of the great church of Antioch was placed, not in the east end of the fane, as was then usual, but in the western parts.f And, that these circles, have, in some instances, been places of worship, is so far favoured by the name, and the associations of that under review. Colmeallie seems a corruption of the Gaelic Kilmeallie, which means " the kirk or cell on a small eminence," an idea which is corroborated by " the kirk shank," " the kirk hill," and " the kirk burn "—names which the hill on the north, and the site of the stones, and the neighbouring rivulet still bear; but no sepulchral * New Stat. Acct. of Forfar?, par. Stracathro ; see also p. 21 of this vol. f Fib. v., c. 22. LAND OF TL1E LINDSAYS. remains, sucli as those which were found at Dalbog and Ballownie so far as we can learn, have ever been found within them. In the hollow ground, however, on the east side, a circular patch of from four to six yards in breadth, was accidently discovered some years ago in the middle of a gravel hillock, and found to contain a quantity of black earth to the depth of about four feet. This deposit was artificial, and being found useful in improving the thin soil on the farm, the tenant had the whole of it carried away for top dressing, and near the bottom of the pit some vestiges of charcoal were found; but there was no trace of human bones, either calcined or otherwise, or of any sort of building. The circles of Colmeallie are of the common concentric kind, and the outer encloses an area of forty-five by thirty-six feet, and consists in all of from fifteen to twenty stones, including three large slabs in the centre, which are supposed to have formed the altar. Some of the boulders are of great size and weight, and, with the exception of three, arc all prostrated or mutilated. Those standing are each pretty nearly five feet four inches above ground; one of them is three feet nine broad, another two feet three, and the third about one foot eight inches. At thickest, they are respectively thirteen, fourteen, and twenty inches. The largest lies on the ground, and is nine feet five inches long, by seven feet five broad. Others of nearly equal dimensions with the erect stones are built into the adjoining dyke, and another is so high and strong as to form the centre- support or pillar of a cart shed. Although these circles are erroneously described in the New Statistical Account (where they are stated as being almost complete), many old people remember of them being more entire than they are now; but the late tenant was one of too many who saw no use in going a little distance for building materials when he could get them at his door, however revered or valuable ; and, as his Gothicism was either unknown to, or unheeded by his landlord, one stone after another disappeared in whole, or was blown to pieces, as circum¬ stances required. It is worthy of remark, that on the opposite side of the river, nearly cqui-distant from the sites of the circles of Colmeallie and Dalbog, a farm still bears the significant cognomen of the Ronnncich or Ranach, which literally means u a songster or re- OLEXESK—PliEHISTORIC REMAINS. citer." The bard is well-known to have been an important personage in Druidical establishments, and whether the Bannach had been named from being the residence of an Ossian, or from any similar reason, it is a curious coincidence that a place of this name should occur near two so-called Druidical circles, and in a district where the appellations are almost uniformly traceable to natural causes. About the year 1830, while the tenant of Fernybank was levelling a hillock in the haugh betwixt the farm house and the Powpot Bridge (about two miles north-west of Colmeallie), he removed a number of stones varying in height and breadth from eighteen to twenty-four inches. They were ranged singly and in a circle at short distances from one another, and enclosed an area of about twelve feet in diameter. On trenching down the knoll, the encircled part (unlike the rest of the haugh, which was of a gravelly soil), was found to be composed of tine black earth, but on removing several cart loads, operations were obstructed by a mass of stones, which occupied much the same space and form as the layer of earth. Curiosity prompted the farmer to continue his labours farther; but after digging to the depth of three or four feet and finding stones only, he abandoned the work in despair, without finding anything worthy of notice. Since then, several pieces of old warlike instruments, both in the shape of flint arrow heads and stone hatchets have been found in the same haugh, and so late as 1851, a spear head made of iron, and about fifteen inches long, was also discovered. Had this cairn been thoroughly searched (it being of a similar con¬ struction as that of Balrownie, which will be noticed in a sub¬ sequent Chapter), it is probable that some traces of sepulture might have been %md. It is also worthy of notice—whether as relating to the use of the circles at Colmeallie, or to other cir¬ cumstances—that a passage across the river, near the site of this hillock, is called "the Kilford," or Kirkford, and " the Kilford Pool" is also near by. A hillock close to Fernybank, on the south-east side of the Modlach hill, is yet known as " the Coort-hill" (perhaps an abbreviated form of the meaning of the large hill of Mcdlngh, i. e. " the law, or hill of the court of justice "), and may have been so named from the baron's court having assembled there. l 90 LAXD OF THE LIN OS A VS. A little to the northward, near the present mill-dam of Auclieen, a stone coffin was found nearly thirty years ago. It was about four feet long, composed of rude slabs at the top, sides, and ends, hut contained no tangible trace of human remains. A bronze celt, ornamented with the herring-bone pattern, was got in the summer of 1849 in the well at Colmeallie ; and some years ago, in the kiln hillock of Dalforth, in the same vicinity, at the depth of three or four feet in the gravel, human remains were dis¬ covered, with the skull and thigh bones pretty entire ; but minus all trace of stone or other coffin. The thigh bones were carried off by some of the over curious, and the skull, to which some hair adhered at the time we saw it, is still preserved in the locality. Elfshot, or flint arrow heads, are found in great plenty throughout the whole district, particularly in the neighbourhood of the " Monk's Poolbut stone hatchets or " thunderbolts," as they are popularly termed, are rare. Still, during the summer of 1852, a fine specimen of these was turned up in the East Ward field on Mains of Edzell. It is made of a tough bluish- grey stone, has never been much used, is rather thicker than usual, and about six inches long, and coated with a whitish substance not unlike pure size-colour. An earthenware pot was also found on this farm a few years ago, containing an immense quantity of coins, principally of silver and copper, and wholly belonging to the mints of Mary and James. A great many fragments of querns, or handmills, have been found in almost all parts of Edzell and Glenesk, but those which have been gathered on the farm of Mains of Edzell are by far the finest, and perhaps the largest specimens yet found. No fewer than nine of these curious relics have been pre¬ served by Mr. Wyllie, the tenant of Mains, some of which are in the best and most advanced state of manufacture, while others are of the rudest or most primitive sort. These were principally gathered on the hill of Drummore (which has already been alluded to as presenting evidence of having been peopled in old times), and vary in size from about seventeen to twenty inches in diameter; and one of them, which is of native granite, had been, at least, two feet when in its original state, for although broken, it is yet about two feet by nineteen inches. With few exceptions they are pretty entire, and mostly all contain, not only G LEN GSK—QIT E ENS. 91 the hole for inserting the pin by which the stone was moved, but also that into which the corn was dropped. The last-men¬ tioned specimen is perhaps peculiar in this respect, as the centre hole bears evidence, on the under side, of having been protected by a piece of wood or iron with four tongues. It need scarcely be said that querns are considered the most ancient of all domestic pieces of furniture, and were made of stone, even in the time of the Patriarchs. Dr. Wilson is of opinion that in our own country, prior to the introduction of stone for the grinding of corn, that the mill had been fashioned of oak,*' but no example of this sort, so far as we are aware, has ever been found in our district. SECTION IV. " I stood in a romantic pass, Near which swept many streams; The ancient mountains pale and far Lay like a land of dreams." C. Swain. Now that the leading features of the ancient history of Glenesk and Edzell have been shewn, a brief epitome of some of the topographical peculiarities of the North Esk, from its source to the Gannochy Bridge, may not be unacceptable, since that river runs through the whole length of these parishes. Notwithstanding that more than a century and a half has elapsed since the great family of Lindsay ceased to own these important districts, their name, as we have seen, is yet fa¬ miliarly associated with both, and, although the physical aspects of the country have perhaps undergone greater change within these hundred years than during the half thousand they were under the Lindsay sway, there is no reason to believe that the course of the river has been materially altered since the times when the ancient lords and ladies of Glenesk and Edzell bounded along its banks in chase of " the deer and the roe." Nothing is more striking in the general aspect of Glenesk than the scantiness of sylvan adornment. With the exception of several indigenous patches of birks, and a few cultivated * Prehistoric Annuls, p. 15'.'. 02 LAX I) OF THE LINDSAYS. strips of firs, scattered here and there, the whole stretch of the Glen, from the woods of The Burn northward, may be said to owe its entire beauty to the grandeur and magnificence of lofty heath-clad mountains. Towards the close of the seventeenth century, however, the scene was more inviting, for then the forest was large, and the whole Glen abounded with " great plentie of wood."* Nay, even a century later, the hills around the venerable tower of Invermark were covered with oaks and pines, and the castle had fine approaches shaded by stately beeches.| While, on the south-east side of the hill of Drum,| which once bore abundant crops of corn, the ridges are barely discernible, and, beyond the occasional presence of the careful shepherd and forester, and the fleecy flocks, which luxuriate over an ample pasturage, little signs of human industry are perceptible. But it is pleasing to know, that these wilds will soon present something of the stirring and lively aspect which they bore in the palmy days of the Lindsays, a spacious shooting lodge, composed of rough native rock, being about to be reared by the present worthy representative of the house of Panmure, whose ancestors (exclusive of the long and fatal interregnum which followed the luckless forfeiture of " sixteen"), have been lords of this large and interesting Glen for nearly a century. The building, which is just about to be commenced, is in the fine picturesque and pointed style of old English architecture; and, while harmonising beautifully with the huge piles of sur¬ rounding cliffs, will also form a pleasing contrast to the fine towering ruin of Invermark Castle, in whose immediate vici- nitv the lodge is to be erected. The whole of the north- * Ochterlony's Acct., c, 1082. t Old Statistical Acct., vol. 5. J A gamekeeper has long resided on this hill. The exact elevation of his house above the sea has not been ascertained, but the Uev. Dr. Muir of St. Vigeans (who has made a barome¬ trical survey of some of the neighbouring hills), kindly informs us, that the site of Invermark Castle is about 1000 feet above the sea, and that he guesses the gamekeeper's house to be about 250 feet higher—thus making it one of the highest inhabited places in Scotland, since the mining village of Leadhills in Lanarkshire, which is not more than 1,300 feet high, is said by all writers to he the highest inhabited of any place in the kingdom. The same learned gentle¬ man says, that the hill of Craigmaskeldie is about 1,820 feet high; Mount-keen, 2,866-3; and the Braid Cairn, 2,706-5. He also remarks, that "the most striking features of Glenesk a*-e the clear instances of glaciers once pervading that valley. From the Loch to Edzell, morraines occur continually—one at Invermark two miles long, and the terminal one at The Burn, adjacent to the Dooly Tmver, is very conspicuous—all exhibiting marks of a much colder climate than the present." GLEXESK—HAMLET OF GLEN LEE. 93 western part of the Glen is also to be thrown into a deer forest, which will unite with the extensive preserves of his Royal High¬ ness Prince Albert and the Earl of Airlie on the north and west, and with those of the Marquis of Huntly on the north-east, thereby forming one of the finest and most extensive sporting fields in Great Britain. As a matter of course, these alterations will tend greatly to depopulate the Glen, the number of whose inhabitants, within these fifty years, has decreased with great rapidity. Glenlee and the Bridge of Lee, for instance, which, together with Glen- effock, were deemed so valuable in old times as to form a part of the terce of the Duchess of Montrose,* are now places of apparent insignificance, and almost wholly used for the pasture of sheep. At a much later period than that referred to, however, more than ten families lived on each of these places for one that has done so for many years past, as evinced by the ruins of cot¬ tages, and of many fertile patches " where once the garden smil'd, And still, where many a garden flow'r grows wild." The old hamlet of Glenlee is now only traceable in its scattered ruins, and the last of its inhabitants, who was known by the familiar name of Johnnie Gordon, and died during the summer of 1852 (although of little more than half a century's standing in Glenesk), remembered the time when Glenlee was the largest clachan in the parish. It was from the decline of the population of this, or the upper part of the Glen, that the parish church was removed to its present site ; and now, although fifty years have only elapsed, the population has been so reduced in the district of Invermark, that both the church and school are as inconveniently situated for the great mass of the people as they were of old, when they stood more than a mile to the northward. But, notwithstanding that the face of nature has been so materially changed here, both as regards its agricultural and populated features—though the place which knew a long race of humble retainers now knows them no more, and many of the farms which lay along the banks of the river are so completely * Acta Pom. enncil.. Mar 1, 1 iS*>. 94 LAND OF THE LINDSAYS. incorporated with others, that their very names are only traceable in the national records, and the repositories of their noble owner, —still, as previously said, the course of the North Esk, so far as known, has undergone but little change. This, the giant river of Angus and Mearns is exclusively a stream of the former county, both by birth and affiliation, so to speak, until it enters the woods at The Burn, from which point until its efflux into the German ocean, it forms the boundary betwixt those shires. It rises amongst the mountains of Lochlee, and the Unicli and the Lee are its original tributaries. The former, rising seven or eight miles south-west of the Loch, and the latter from four to five miles north-west, are both united immediately under the northernmost ridge of the fine picturesque mountain of Craig- maskeldie and are known from thence, for a distance of nearly four miles, by the common name of The Lee. The Unich, as its name implies, has a hurried, bustling motion ; and the most of its course, from the Falls northward, is peculiarly wild and rocky. The Falls are from forty to fifty feet in height, and form a pretty highland cataract; but, like other parts of the Glen, they are destitute of sylvan accessories, and so completely removed from all human dwellings, and shut out from the view of every thing, save the blue canopy of heaven, by high terrific mountains, that the locality seems, as it were, the extreme of Creation's boundless architecture. The track of the Lee has a more friendly aspect than that of the Unich, and, as it tumbles from the north-east shoulder of the Eagle Craig into the green valley, presents many pretty cascades. A little below the junction of these rivers, on the south, and about four hundred feet above their channel, the immense bason-shaped cavity, scooped from the very heart of Craigmaskeldie, is a natural curiosity of some interest, particu¬ larly to the angler, from its abounding with a scarce sort of trout called char, similar to those found in the lake of Winander-Mere in Westmoreland, and which, in Walton's time, were supposed to be peculiar to the latter place. This is the site of Carlochy, whose beautiful little lake sleeps, as it were, in the bosom of this immense and rugged mountain, in much the same way as that of the more famous Lochnagar ; and although the grandeur of Carlochy has been unsung, and the cliffs less elevated than those of Loch- glenesk—garloghy, the mark, and north esk. 95 nagar, it is not altogether destitute of romantic associations. Here, if the curious traveller has courage to encounter the glis¬ tening adder, and patience to scramble over huge tablets of rock, he may stumble upon the narrow entrance to a dark recess, called Gryp's Chamber, where a notorious reaver of that name is said to have dwelt for many years, carrying on a system of law¬ less and nocturnal plunder. It is a long, dark, and gloomy cavern, with a large stone in the middle, which was used by the infatuated occupant as a table. Another ill-fated spot bears the name of the Bride's Bed, and so called, it is said, because of a young and bloomiug bride having lost her life there in crossing the hills from Clova—whether by unfair or accidental means has not been recorded; " But still, at the darksome hour of night When lurid phantoms fly, A hapless bride in weeds of white Illumes the lake and sky !" Passing Inchgrundle, the Loch, the old kirk, and the Monk's Pool, the fine mountain torrents of the Mark and the Branny* unite with the Lee a little below the new parish church, and form the head of the North Esk, by which appellation the stream is henceforth known for the .whole length of its course. The river Mark, which has its principal rise from the Black hill of that name, is by far the finest specimen of a mountain torrent within the whole boundary of the parish, and traverses a distance of ten or twelve miles through a singularly romantic valley, which presents, in many places, a terrific wildness scarcely surpassable, and in others, flat and undulating swards of the richest grass. This valley, as already seen, is also worthy of note, on account of its historical and traditional associations 5 and about the time that the district was erected into an independent parish, the bridge near the old castle " was built 011 general contributions, chiefly by the parishioners,"f and is yet a good substantial and rather picturesque fabric. Droustie, the sup¬ posed site of St. Drostan's ministry, now occupied by the minister's house, is, withal, a snug and finely situated place; * Gael. Bran-ie, i e. "small mountain stream." •j Inscription ou Bridge, now nearly obliterated. LAND OF THE LINDSAYS. but once upon a time—indeed down to the era of the erection of the present manse—it was the busy, and, to the weary traveller betwixt and Deeside, the welcome scene of an alehouse, which occasionally furnished a little business for the parochial courts, as, in more cases than one, instances are recorded of several members of both sexes having been admonished and fined by the minister for dipping too deep in the nut brown ale.* Whether the celebrated bard of u The Minstrel" had ever partaken of the good things of the place, cannot be affirmed ; but in his poetical address to his old friend Moss, after complimenting him on the superiority of his poem of " Helenore," Beattie takes occasion to speak of the inn in the following manner :— " But ilka Mearns and Angus bairn Thy tales and sangs by heart shall learn ; And chiels shall come frae yont the Cairn- o'-Mount, right vousty, If Ross will be so kind as share in Their pint at Drousty The Effock, which tumbles down a beautiful glen on the south side of the river, about a mile below the head of the North Esk, is the only tributary of that stream until it receives the copious waters of the Tarf. The Tarf, apart from Mark, is the most con¬ siderable river in the Glen, and rising from the hill of Cat, skirts the Mowan on the east, and is augmented in its descent by the burn of Tennet, by which glen there is a good pass to Charleton of Aboyne.f Tarf is quite a mountain stream, and from the rapidity with which it swells, is perhaps the most dangerous in the parish; and it is believed, from the frequency of the floods, that much, if not all, the precious metal, for which it is said to have been so famous at one time, has been swept away. During the celebrated deluge of 1829, it rose so high that the stone bridge, which (according to the quaint entry by Mr. Moss in the Parish Megister) was erected for the purpose of allowing the poor " to pass and repass in quest of their living," and for people " coming and going to and from the church," being neither capacious enough to allow the water free exit, nor sufficiently * Par. Reg., April 18, 17G6,