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Slicnit/Htitton^HVun.JT,"^BLACK'S PICTURESQUE GUIDE
TO
YORKSHIRE[The Editor will be glad to receive suggestions from Tourists using this Gvide-i<oo/s. Communications to be addressed to the Publishers.]BLACK'S
i'.
PICTURESQUE GUIDE
TO
YORKSHIRE
WITH MAP OF THE COUNTY AND NUMEROUS PLANS AND VIEWS.
ARMS OF THE CITY OF YORK.
eleventh edition.
EDINBURGH: ADAM AND CHARLES BLACK 1882.PKEFACE.
AF.
alphabetical method of arrangement adopted in this work is, as may be easily supposed, attended with both advantages and disadvantages. On the one hand, when compared with the system of tours, or even with that suggested by the natural features and divisions of the country, it has the advantage of sim-. plicity and readiness of reference, every place of leading importance being easily turned up, without the necessity of consulting the index. On the other hand, the plan involves the inconvenience of the notices of localities geographically near each other being sometimes placed widely apart, instead of being included in one continuous description. Indeed, if the alphabetical system were to be carried out to its fullest extent, it would either entirely separate the description of places from that of the objects and Bcenery in their vicinity, on which their interest to the tourist often chiefly depends, or necessitate endless repetitions and cross-references In the preparation of this work, the writer has endeavoured to hit the proper medium of the alphabetical system, and at the Bame time to secure to as great an extent as possible the advantages of the other methods. The alphabetical order is taken as the general plan upon which the contents of the book arevi
PREFACE.
arranged (an exception being made in the case of the City of York which is placed at the beginning), and descriptions are given of each locality which appears from its antiquarian, historical, commercial, or general importance, to deserve a separate notice. In connection with each locality so described is given an account of attractive scenery and objects of interest in its vicinity, the most important of such places being also mentioned alphabetically in the body of the work, with a reference to the vicinity in which they will be found described. Frequently, too, throughout the course of the Guide, short tours through interesting districts are suggested, having for their starting-points the places under which they are mentioned. The great dales of the west and north have received detailed description, in addition to the separate account of specially interesting places contained in them, given in accordance with the alphabetical plan of the book ; and the points at which the tourist can most conveniently diverge from one valley to another are duly indicated. By this method it is hoped that many of the advantages of the " tour " system have been secured, while the inconvenience connected with the formal division of the book into a set of arbitrarily arranged routes has been avoided.
It would be easy here, by way of supplementing the hints given throughout the different parts of this work, to suggest many routes to be followed by the tourist in Yorkshire. These, however, he will have no difficulty in chalking out for himself, with the aid of the Map, which has been carefully constructed from the Ordnance Surveys. A few general observations may suffice in this place.
For the purpose of a systematic survey, Yorkshire might be conveniently viewed as consisting of four divisions :—the great Yale of York, a broad level tract of much richness and beauty, occupying the centre of the county, and stretching from the TeesPREFACE.
vii
to the Humber; the sea-coast, with, its adjacent districts ; tho manufacturing towns of the south-west; and the dales of the west and north.
The Vale of York, being traversed by the main line of the North-Eastern Railway, can be explored in any of its parts with little fatigue. The tourist's movements will in a great measure be regulated by the arrangements of time, etc., of the railway and its branches, by which he may reach or approach any spot of interest in this part of the county.
For the sea-coast, too, the railways are serviceable, but not to the same extent. Although the principal places can all be reached by rail, the tour of the coast itself, with the exception of the portion between Scarborough and Bridlington, must be made either on foot, or by private conveyance. The walk is in many parts an interesting, but also a toilsome one. It has peculiar charms for the geologist and the naturalist. The parts of the coast most deserving of attention are noticed under Bridlington, Filey, Flamborough, Scarborough, and Whitby. Most of the places of interest in the adjoining districts are readily accessible by rail.
The manufacturing towns in the south-west are all connected by a network of railways ; and a study of the map and railway time tables will be more serviceable for directing the tourist's movements among them than any hints that could be given here.
In examining the dales of Yorkshire, tourists will find that the most thorough and satisfactory method is to ascend one dale and descend another. In this way the tediousness of going twice over the same ground is avoided, and many striking views of wild mountain scenery are obtained that would not otherwise have been enjoyed. The places in these remote districts at which the tourist can find quarters for the night are indicated The accommodation is necessarily of a homely kind; but the charges are usually correspondingly moderate.
With regard to the charges of hotels and inns given throughout this work,-it may be mentioned that they are given eitherviii
PREFACE.
from the •writer's own experience in his travels through the county, or from other trustworthy sources. The hotels named first are usually the largest and most important in the place; but they are not, therefore, always the best. Occasionally, the writer has paid high for very indifferent accommodation, when he might have been better served for half the money at an inn of less pretensions. It would be invidious to single out particular houses either for commendation or censure. The tourist will not fail to avoid inns where he has been once overcharged ; and he will not be forgetful of houses where he has found the accommodation good and the charges moderate.
There are several points—such as the time of trains and coaches, etc.—on which, purposely, no information is given in this work. These times are continually changing \ and the tourist must Beek the information he requires in the official monthly tables and other documents. Further, as the days on which private mansions are shown to the public are liable to be changed, tourists should endeavour, before visiting them, to ascertain whether any alterations have taken place.CONTENTS.
—♦—
PAOH
General Deschiption of the County op Yorkshire.—Situation, Physical Features, and Climate — History — Antiquities— Eminent Natives—Area, Population, Agriculture, Manufactures, Railways ....... xvii
The Citt of York.—History—Eminent Natives—Population and Commerce—The Minster ; its History—Description of the Exterior—The West Front—The Nave—The Transepts-Choir—Chapter-House—Tower—Description of the Interior —View from the West Door—The Nave—West Window— South Transept, its Windows and Monuments — Central Tower—North Transept, its Windows and Monuments—The Organ Screen—The Organ — The Choir—Lady Chapel— Monuments in the Aisles of the Choir—The Crypt—The Vestry and its Curiosities—The Chapter-House—Towers— Dimensions of the Minster : St. Mary's Abbey, and the Museum Gardens—Churches—York Castle—Public Buildings—City Walls and Bars. Vicinity: Railway Lines—Bishopthorpe— Bolton Percy to Cawood—Church Fenton—Saxton—Towton Heath—Marston Moor—Skelton—Nun Monkton—Heslington —Holgate ....... 1
Airedale.—Stations for exploring Upper Airedale and Craven— Settle and its neighbourhood—Malham Village—Goredale Scar and Malham Cove—Valley of the Aire . .	.33
Aldborough and Boroughbridge.—Boroughbridge—The Devil's Arrows—Aldborough, the Roman Isurium—Aldborough Church—Myton—The "White Battle" . . .38
Askern and its Neighbourhood.—Aakern Spa—" Merry Barns-dale"— Robin Hood and the Bishop of Hereford—Robin Hood's Well—Burgh Wallis—Owston—Arksey . . 43x
contents.
?/GB
Athelstan Abbey	44
Babnsley.—Manufactures and Population—Atkinson, the Siberian Traveller—Public Buildings—"T" Bairnsla Foaks Annual." Vicinity: Monk Bretton Priory—Wentworth	45
Ben Rhyddinq	48
Beverley.—History and Present Condition—Description of the Minster—The Percy Shrine—Maiden Tomb—Legend of the "Sisters of Beverley"—St. Mary's Church- Vicinity: Bishop Burton—Cherry Burton—Means Abbey—Westwood . 61
Bolton Castle	62
Bolton Priory and Upper Wharfedale.—History of the Priory —Legend of "The Boy of Egremond"—Situation of the Priory—Bolton Hall—The Church—The Conventual Buildings—The Churchyard—"White Doe of Rylstone"—The Strid—" Force of Prayer "—Barden Tower—Henry Clifford, " The Shepherd Lord "—Simon's Seat—Kilnsey—Dowka-bottom Cave—Amcliffe—Kettlewell—Mountain Roada into Wensleydale .	64
Boston Spa and its Vicinity.—Boston Spa—Clifford—Bramham
—Bramham Park—Haslewood Hall—Aberford—Bardsey	74
Bowes.—The Roman Camp—The Castle—The Church—Grave of " Edwin and Emma "—" Dotheboys Hall"—Rere Cross on Stainmoor—Roman Camp—The Cross	76
Bradford.— History, Population, and Manufactures — Parish Church — St. George's Hall—Other Public Buildings. Vicinity: Saltaire—Shipley—Bingley—Bowling—Calverley 80
Bridlington.—History and Population—The Priory—Priory Church—Gateway — Bridlington Quay. Vicinity: Rudstone —The Gypseys—Sewerby—Carnaby—Burton Agnes—Boynton 84
Byland Abbey.—Description of the Ruins—Road to Helmsley	90
Castle Howard.—Description of the principal Apartments— List of the best Pictures—The Gardens and Pleasure-Grounds —Statues. Neighbourhood; Hutton Ambo—Gateskeugh	92
Cawood.—Remains of a Castle—Cardinal Wolsey—Wis tow	98
Conisbobouqh Castle.—Keep—Chapel or Oratory—Village	100CONTENTS.
xi
Coxwold and its Vioinity.—Coxwold Village—The Church— Monuments—Shandy Hall, residence of Sterne—Newburgh Park — Ampleforth — Gilling— Oswaldkixk — Roger Dods-worth, the Antiquary	105
Cboft.—Church—Spa. Vicinity: Great Smeaton—Stanwick	110
Donoabter.—History—Eminent Natives—St. George's Church— Public Buildings—The Races. Vicinity: Thome—Fishlake —Campsmount—Adwick-le-Street—Tickhill Castle—Sandbeck Park—Roche Abbey.	112
Driffield and its Vicinity.—Great and Little Driffield—Alfred, King of Northumbria—British Burials—The Wolds—Harpham —St. John of Beverley—Lowthorpe—Watton Abbey	118
Easby Abbey.—Description of the Ruins—Easby Church .	121
Easingwold and its Vicinity.—Easingwold Church—Crayke
Castle—Alne—Raskelfe	124
Filey and Vicinity.—Roman Remains—Parish Church—Spa—
Filey Brig—Speeton—Gristhorp—Red Cliff—Hunmanby	128
Flambobough.—The Church—Danish Tower—Flamborough Head
—The Danes' Dyke	131
Fountains Abbey and Studley Royal.—Village of Studley— Studley Royal—The Grounds—History of Fountains Abbey —Description of the Abbey—Fountains Hall—The Monks' Corn Mill—Aldfield—Lakes of High Grantley	134
Guibbobough Priory.—The Town—Priory. Vicinity: Barnaby Moor or Eston Nab—Roseberry Topping—Marton, birthplace of Captain Cook—Stokesley—Whorlton—Skelton Castle	146
Halifax.—Origin of the Name—"Gibbet Law"—Eminent Men —Population and Manufactures—The Parish Church—All Souls' Church—Independent Chapel—Town Hall—Public Buildings and Charities	151
Harrogate.—Situation of the Town—Churches—Hotels and
Lodging-Houses—Mineral Waters—Baths	156
Vicinity of Harrogate.—Almes Cliff—Brimham Rocks—Golds-borough and Ribston—Harewood—Plumjiton—Ripley Castle— Spofforth Castle—'Wetherby	163JOl	CONTENTS.
PAQB
Haworth.—Situation of the Village—The Church—Burial-place of the Bronte Family—The Parsonage—The Sisters Bronte and their Works —Haworth Moor—Extracts .	170
Helmsley.—The Market-Place—The Church*—The Castle —
Duncombe Park—Road to Rievaulx Abbey	176
Hohnsea.—The Church—Hornsea Mere. Vicinity: Sigglesthorne
—Aldbrough—Skipsea	180
Howden Chuboh	182
Hudderstteld.—Population and Manufactures—The Parish Church—Cloth Hall. Vicinity: Almondbury—Kirklees, the Grave of Rohin Hood	185
Hull.—Situation and History—Eminent Natives—Population and Trade—Church of the Holy Trinity—Low Church— Mansion House—Trinity House—Charter House—Grammar School—Other Public Buildings—The Docks. Vicinity: Cottingham — Hedon—Patrington—Welwick—Winestead— Withernsea	189
Llklet.—The Olicana of the Romans—Hydropathic Establishments—The Church—Neighbouring Scenery	201
Ilkley Wells House	203
1ngleborouqh and the neighbouring heights.—Ingleborough —Clapham Village—Ingleborough Cave—Gaping Gill Hole —British Camp on the Summit of Ingleborough—Whern-side—Ingleton—Gretadale—Chapel-le-Dale—Doctor Daniel Dove—Southey's Description of the Chapel—Hurtle Pot— Gingle Pot—Weathercote Cave—Gatekirk Cave—Kingsdale —Yordas Cave—Thornton Scar—Thornton Force—Thornton-in-Lonsdale—Penyghent—Horton— Gearstonea	204
Jeevaux Abbey	210
Keighley.—Population and Manufactures—The Parish Church—
Scenes of interest in the Neighbourhood	212
Kibkby Moobside.—The Church—Scene of the Death of the Duke of Buckingham—Pope's Lines—Walpole's estimate of Buckingham's Character—Kirkdale Church—The Saxon Sun-Dial— Kirkdale Cave and its Remains—Pickering	213CONTENTS.
xiii
fi aim am Priory.—Tradition concerning its Foundation—Description of the Ruins	217
Kjekstall Abbey.—History of the Abbey—The Church—The Cloister Court—Chapter House—Refectory—Abbot's Residence —Cloisters—Gatehouse	218
Knabesbobouoh.—History of the Manor—Blind Jack of Knares-borough—The Church—The Castle—The Dropping Well—St. Robert's Chapel—Account of Saint Robert of Knaresborough— St. Robert's Cave—Story of Eugene Aram—The Knaresborough Spa.	221
Leeds.—History—Eminent Men—Population and Manufactures— The Town Hall—St. Peter's Church—Other Churches—Dissenting Chapels—The Grammar School—Industrial School— School of Medicine—Scientific and Literary Institutions— Commercial Buildings—Cloth Halls—Factories. Vicinity: Adel Church and Roman Station—Armley—Headingly—Whit-kirk—Temple Newsam	228
Malton.—History of the town—Is it Derventio t—Population and • Trade—St. Michael's Church—St. Leonard's Church—Other Public Buildings—Crypt of an Hospital—The Lodge—Roman Malton: the Town, the Camp, Streets, and Relics—Old Malton Priory—Curious Inscriptions in the Church and Churchyard— Norton	241
Vicinity of Malton.—Northward: Amotherby—Appleton-le-Street—Barton-le-Street—Slingsby Castle—Hovingham—Stone-grave—Nunnington, Southward: Langton Wold—Burythorpe —Birdsall—North Grimston—Duggleby. Eastward: Set-trington—Thorpe Basset—Wintringham—Rillington. Westward : Castle Howard—Kirkham Priory—Bulmer—Welburn —Whitwell	252
MabketWeighton and its Vicinity.—One of the Sites of Delgovitia —The Church—Shipton—Hayton—Pocklington : its Church ; interesting Monuments and Carved Oak Work	257
middleham.—The Church—The Castle . .	. 260
Meddlebbobough.—History—Trade and Population—St. Hilda's
Church—St. John's Church—Other Buildings—Park .	262
Nobthallebton and its Vicinity.—The Town—Roman Station_
Battle of the Standard—Bedale—Mount Grace Priory—Paftick Brompton—Hornby Castle—Leyburn—Kirby Wiske	263xiv
CONTENTR.
Otlet and Lower Wharfedale.—The Church and its Monuments —The Manor House—Dissenting Chapels—The Chevin— Wharfedale below Arthington—fool—Caley Hall—Farnley Hall—Leathley—Newall—Guiseley Church—Burley—Weston — Maraton — Denton Park — Dkley — Addingham — Bolton Bridge	266
Pickering.—Castle—Church. Vicinity: Cawthorne—The Roman Delgovitia t—Cropton—British Camp—Lastingham—Rosedale —Levisham—Hole of Hercum—Blackhow Topping—The Bridestones—Ellerburn	2C9
Pontepraot.—Origin of the Name—Population and Trade—The Castle : Scenes it has witnessed—The Church. Vicinity: Castleford, a Roman Station—Ferry Bridge—Methley	275
Redcar and its Vicinity.—Redcar—Coatham Church—Marske
—Kirkleatham—Turner's Hospital	280
Richmond.—History and Population—The Parish Church—The Churchyard—Herbert Knowles—Trinity Church—Tower of the Grey Friars—Priory of St. Martin—Hospital of St. Nicholas—The Grammar School—Richmond Castle—King Arthur and his Knights—Scenery in the Neighbourhood— Ravensworth Castle and Church	281
Rievaulx Abbey.—Sir Walter L'Espec—The Church—The Monastic Buildings—Rievaulx Terrace—Bilsdale—Mountain Road to Byland Abbey	289
Ripon.—History of the Town—The Cathedral : its History— Description of the Exterior—Interior Dimensions—The Nave —Centre Tower—Transepts, and their Monuments—The Chancel—Chapter-House—St Wilfrid's Needle—The Bone-House : Market Cross—Town Hall—Trinity Church—Dissenting Places of Worship—Free Grammar School—Bishop's Palaco. Vicinity: Hackfall—Tanfield—Swinton—Masham 291
Rokeby and its Neighbourhood.—Walk from Barnard Castle— The Abbey Bridge—History of the Manor of Rokeby—Scott's Description of the Glen—Junction of the Tees and Greta ^ Mortham Tower—Greta Bridge—The Roman Camp—BrignaJl
Banks—Scargill Cliff	301
•
Rotherham.—The Town—The Parish Church—Independent College—Masborough	S05CONTENTS.
xv
paqb
Saltburn-by-the-Sea.—Situation—Elegant Hotels—Sands—
New Pier and Bridge—Glen—Excursions	307
Scarborough.—Advantages as a Watering-Place—History of Town and Castle—Population and Trade—Improvements— Parish and other Churches and Chapels—Museum— Town Hall—Other Public Buildings—Resources for the Amusement of Visitors : South Cliff, Bock Gardens, etc.— Scarborough Castle—View from the Castle Hill—The Spa —Cliff Bridge—Spa Saloon and Music Hall—Mineral Waters—Bathing and Sands	306
Vicinity.—Geological Features—Oliver's Mount—Seamer Mere and Village—Carnelian Bay—Cayton—Gristhorp—Scalby Mill and Village —Haiburn; Wyke—Staintondale Cliffs— Hackness—Falsgrave—East and West Ayton—Hutton Bus-eel—Wykeham .	318
Selby.— Selby Abbey—The Abbey Church—Market Cross— Chapels—Grammar SchooL Vicinity: Brayton—Birkin— Skipwith—Hemingborough—Wressil Castle	323
Sheffield.—History—Eminent Men—Population—Natural Advantages—The Steel Manufacture—St. Peter's Church and its Monuments—Other Churches—Manufactories. Vicinity: Sherwood Forest—Opening Scene of "Ivanhoe"—Wentworth House—Principal Pictures in Lord Fitzwilliam's Collection— Mausoleum of the Marquis of Rockingham—Wharncliffe— '' The Dragon of Wantley "	329
Sheriff Hutton.—The Castle—The Church—Sittenham .	341
Skipton.—The Vale of Skipton—History of the Town—The Cliffords—The Church—The Castle—Scenery accessible from Skipton—Sawley Abbey—Brownsholme	343
Swaledale.—Stations for Exploring the Dale—Catterick Bridge— The Roman Catwractonivm—Village of Catterick—Bolton-on-Swale—Old Jenkins—Easby—Richmond—Marske—Ellerton Abbey—Marrick Abbey—Reeth— Fremington—Grinton— Muker—Mountain Road to Wensleydale	347
Tadcaster.—The Roman Calcaria—Church—To Boston Spa—To
Bramham and Harewood—Barwick-in-Elmet .	351
Teesdale.—Stations for Exploring the Dale—Middlesborough— Stockton—Yarm—Croft—Pierse Bridge—Barford—St. Mary's Abbey—Ovington—Wycliffe—John de WyclifFe—Wycliffesrvi
CONTENTS.
Church—Rokeby—Greta Bridge—Brignall and Scargill—The Abbey Bridge—Athelstan Abbey—Barnard Castle—Scott's word-picture of Teesdale—Bowes—Rere Cross—Deepdale— Lartington—Romaldkirk—Middleton-in-Teesdale—High Force —Caldron Snout—Mickle Fell	353
UmitBK.—The Town—The Church—Excursions by Railway	369
Wakefield.—"Merry Wakefield"—Battle of Wakefield—Eminent Natives—Population and Trade—The Parish Church—The Chantry—Public Buildings. Vicinity: Heath—Stanley Hall —Robin Hood and the Jolly Pinder—Nostal Priory—Sandal Castle—Walton Hall—Dewsbury—Batley—Manufacture of Shoddy	361
Wensleydale.—Stations for exploring the Dale—From Aldborough to Ripon—From Ripon to Jervaux Abbey—Coverhain Abbey— Middleham—Spennithorne—Leyburn—Wensley—Wensley to Bolton Castle—Aysgarth—Askrigg—Bainbridge—Simmer Water—Hawes — Haxdraw Force—Hell Becks—Mountain Roads to Wharfedale and Swaledale	367
Whabfedale	373
Whitbt.—The Abbey—Saint Hilda—Csedmon, the first Saxon Poet—Remains of the Abbey—Whitby Hall—The Parish Church—Public Buildings. Vicinity: The Coast—Dvmm Sinus—Mulgrave Castle—Wada the Saxon—Runs wick— Staithes—Robin Hood's Bay—Grasmount—Egton Bridge— Egton—Beggar's Bridge: Stoiy of its Erection—Scenery of Eskdale—Danby Castle—Castleton—Vale of Goathland—Bri-gantian Villages	878GENERAL DESCRIPTION AND HISTORY OE THE COUNTY OF YORK.
ORKSHIRE is the largest county in England, exceeding by
upwards of six hundied square miles the combined areas oi Lincolnshire and Devonshire, which rank next to it in extent. Id point of population it is inferior only to Lancashire and the metropolitan county of Middlesex. The outline is an irregular quadrangle, marked out by great natural boundaries. Its whole east side is washed by the German Ocean ; on the north, the Tees separates it from Durham ; on the south, the Humber divides it from Lincoln ; while a range of hills on the west almost exactly defines its limits towards Westmorland and Lancashire.
The lands of Yorkshire slope to the east and south, in accordance with their internal structure. "With only one or two slight exceptions, such as the " Whinstone Dike " and " Whin Sill," the mineral masses are regularly stratified ; they are not, however, horizontal, but inclined to the eastward, receiving their axis of elevation from a great line of dislocation nearly coincident with the western boundary of the county. The surface of the county may be divided into distinctly-marked natural districts, each of which has superficial characteristics of scenery, as well as an internal formation, peculiarly its own. In the centre of the county, stretching from the Tees to the Humber, is the great Yale of York, a beautiful and fertile tract upon the New Red Sandstone series, bordered on the east by the Lias, and on the west by the
bXViii	GEOLOGY AND SCENERY OF YORKSHIRE.
Magnesian Limestone. The bold and picturesque scenery of the western hills and dales is due to the harder rocks of the Millstone Grit series and the Scar Limestone, which here come to the surface. In the south-western part of the county we have a considerable tract of the Coal formation, the site of the great manufacturing towns of the "West Hiding, and densely peopled throughout. The north-eastern district is of the Oolitic and Lias formations ; and the south-eastern district, with its smooth green wolds, is of Chalk. Between these districts lies the Vale of Pickering, which in prehistoric times was either a river course or a lake opening to the sea. The formation of this tract is of Kimmeridge clay, covered by lacustrine and river deposits. In the portion of the southeastern district, which is called Holderness, the chalk gives place to a perishable formation of 6and, gravel, day, and lake and river sediment, on which the 6ea makes constant and easy encroachments.
" The main external features of Yorkshire," says Professor Phillips, " are strictly explicable on the simplest possible theoiy : viz., that of the long continued action of the agitated sea on the strata which composed its bed, at the time when this bed was raised to constitute land. These strata, by their various degrees of consolidation and peculiarities of position, offered unequal resistance to the waves, and have been unequally wasted ; the softer strata, which suffered, most waste, have left the greatest hollows—the red marls and. blue lias having been excavated in the Vale of York, the Kimmeridge clays in the Yale of Pickering, the limestone shales in Craven, and the tertiary sands in Holderness ; while harder masses of chalk constitute the wolds, oolites and sandstones form the moorlands of Whitby, still firmer sandstones and limestones, with some slaty and some basaltic masses, constitute the higher regions of the west.
" To geological differences on a large scale we thus clearly trace the main distinctive features of the great natural divisions of Yorkshire. The mineral qualities and positions of rocks, with the accidents to which they have been subjected, give us the clue to the forms of mountains and valleys, the aspect of waterfalls and rocks, the prevalent herbage, and the agricultural appropriation. Even surface colour and pictorial effect are not fully understood without geological inquiry. While limestone 'scars' support a sweet green turf, and slopes of shale give a stunted growth of bluish sedge, gritstone ' edges' are often deeply covered by brownearly inhabitants
heath, and abandoned to grouse, the sportsman, or the peat-cutter In a word, geological distinctions are nowhere more boldly marked than in Yorkshire, or more constantly in harmony with the other leading facts of physical geography."*
Perhaps no county in England possesses such varied and interesting scenery, whether sea-coast or inland. From the lofty summits of Mickle Fell, Whernside, Ingleborough, and the other hills in the western range, down to the level and extensive Vale of York, and eastward to the chalk wolds over the Humber, the high moors above the Esk, and the indented sea-coast beyond, there is a succession of scenery presenting every order of beauty, from the wildest sublimity to the gentlest loveliness. The dales of Yorkshire are acknowledged to be unequalled by any others in the kingdom; and some of thein, in the more remote parts of the county, present, both in their scenery and their inhabitants; attractions of no ordinary kind to the adventurous tourist.
The climate, like the soil, varies in different places. The western moors and dales have a bracing climate, the* cold being more severe than on the eastern heights. The climate of the central part of the county is equable and healthy. The highest points are Mickle Fell, in the north-west angle of the county, 2600 feet above the sea; Whernside, 2384; Ingleborough, 2361 ; and other hills of rather less altitude in the west ; and Burton Head, 1485, in the north-east. The waters of Yorkshire, with the exception of that very small part of the county on the west slope of the Pennine chain which is drained by the Ribble, all find their way to the eastern sea at points within the limits of the county. The ^principal rivers unite in the Humber. They are—the Don, Calder, Aire, Wharfe, Nid, Ure, Swale, Denvent, and Hull. The Esk has its own outfall to the sea, as has also the Tees, which forms the northern boundary of the county.
The earliest inhabitants of Yorkshire, of whom we have any record, were the Brigantes, one of the most powerful British tribes. Their territories appear to have included Yorkshire and Lancashire, with perhaps portions of the neighbouring counties. Cartismandua, who delivered up the heroic Caractacus to the Romans, a. d. 51, was queen of this tribe. This action probably conciliated the Romans for a time ; for the Brigantes were not reduced under the power of that nation till the reign of * " Rivers. Mountains, and Sea Const of Yorkshire," p. 16-XX
history of yorkshire.
Vespasian, in the year 71. When Constantine divided Britain into three parts, Yorkshire was included in Maxima Ccesariensis. Under the Saxons it formed part of the kingdom of Northumberland, having the name of Deira, when that kingdom was divided into two parts. Along with the rest of the kingdom of Northumbria, Yorkshire yielded to Egbert, king of the West Saxons, about the year 827. On the invasion of the Danes.. Yorkshire was reduced after some sanguinary conflicts, in one of which the rival Saxon kings, Osbert and Ella, too late in uniting against the common foe, were slain at York, in 867. Seventy years later, Athelstan " of earls the lord, of heroes the bracelet giver," defeated the Danes in a bloody battle, and brought Northumbria again under Saxon rule. Again and again the Danes renewed the contest, as their fleets landed fresh troops of hardy Northmen on the English coast. The last great struggle was fought in 1066. Hadrada, king of Norway, entered the Humber with 500 ships, and landed an army, which, with that of the Danish prince Tosti, who had invited him, amounted to 60,000 men. Marching upon York, the invaders speedily took it by storm. Harold, the Saxon king of England, at once marched towards York to oppose the invaders, who withdrew, and took up a strong position at Stamford Brig. The dauntless Harold at once attacked them. The battle raged from seven in the morning till three in the afternoon, and issued in the death of Hadrada and Tosti, and the almost total destruction of theii army. Three weeks later, Harold had to resist another invader : and the " last of the Saxons " perished on the field-of Hastings. William the Conqueror pursued the same policy towards Yorkshire as towards the rest of the kingdom. He garrisoned York, and bestowed the castles and manors throughout the county on his followers. Several risings against the Norman power, which took place in this county, were punished with great severity. The first parliament mentioned in history, was held in York, by Henry II., in 1160. Many of the principal facts in the history of the county after this period fall to be noticed in that of its chief city, which continued for a long period to be the scene of many of the most important events in our national history. (See York, history of.) During the wars of the Roses, Yorkshire was the scene of various important struggles, the chief of which were the battles of Wakefield in 1460, and of Towton in 1461. The suppression of monastic houses by Henry VIIL gaveROMAN, AND OTHER REMAINS.	XU
rise to a serious rebellion, commonly called the " Pilgrimage of Grace," in 1536. Several smaller risings occurred shortly after this period; but they were easily and summarily suppressed. Yorkshire was the theatre of many struggles between the royalists and parliamentarians. It was at Marston Moor that the important battle was fought which gave a blow to the fortunes of the haughty and unfortunate Charles, from which they never recovered. With the exception of some royal visits, and several risings in the manufacturing districts, occasioned by commercial distress and the introduction of machinery, the subsequent history of this county presents no events deserving special notice.
Yorkshire contains numerous remains of the peoples who have successively ruled it. The Brigantes or Highlanders—that being the meaning of their name—have left traces of themselves in the names of many of the rivers, and some of the mountains and ancient sites of population ; in their tumuli, containing bones, weapons, and ornaments, to be seen on the Wolds and elsewhere ; in their camps, 6uch as antiquarians trace at Barwick in Elmet, Hutton Ambo, and Langton; in their stone monuments; and in their pottery.
The Romans have left very numerous and distinct memorials of themselves. Their military roads traverse the county in various directions. One great line enters Yorkshire near Bawtry, crosses the Don at Doncaster (Danum), the Aire at Castleford (Legeolium)t and the Wharfe at Tadcaster (Cabana), and reaches York (Ebor-acum), whence it passes in a north-westerly direction to Aldborough (.Isurium), then to Catterick Bridge (Cataractonium), where it crosses the Swale, and passing still north, leaves the county by crossing the Tees at Pierse Bridge. A little to the north of Catterick, a branch of the road goes off to the left to Greta Bridge, whence it proceeds towards Carlisle. From Eboracum, a road in many places well marked goes eastward by Derventio (Malton) and Delgovitia, to Praetorium (Dunsley). From Isurium several lines of road branch off ; one, very distinctly marked, proceeding in a south-westerly direction, crossing the Nid, Wharfe, and Aire, and following the course of the Ribble towards Preston. Roman camps are numerous. The earliest of their stations appears to have been at Aldborough. Traces, more or less distinct, may be seen of camps at York, Bainbridge, Catterick Bridge, Greta Bridge, Stainmoor, Malton, and Cawthorne ; while the namesEMINENT NATIVES OP YORKSHIRE.
and positions of numerous other places, taken in conjunction ■with the geography of Ptolemy and the itineraries of Antoninus, make it evident that they were Roman settlements. Relics of the Romans have been frequently found, in the shape of votive altars, stone coffins, pavements, sculptures, coins, ornaments of glass, coral, bronze, gold and silver, etc.*
The Anglo-Saxons and Danes are not without their monuments. These are chiefly mounds, raised either for defence or as memorials for the fallen brave. Warlike weapons and ornaments of various kinds have been found in these mounds. The remains of Saxon architecture which Yorkshire possesses consist chiefly of a few pillars, arches, and inscriptions, preserved by being incorporated with later structures. These, which are chiefly in churches, are veiy interesting. Norman remains are more numerous, and are to be found in much purity and perfection in various castles and ecclesiastical edifices. There are many old fortresses in this county, which are interesting alike for the antiquity of their erection and their historical associations. Its stately minsters, still preserved in their old magnificence, its ancient churches, and the grand ruins of its crumbling abbeys, present abundant and excellent materials for a study and comparison of the different orders of architecture.
This extensive county has given to the world many eminent names. The principal natives of Yorkshire who figure prominently in public affairs, in ancient times, are: Richard Plantagenet, third Duke of York, whose ambition and fate are
• Early Inhabitants.—The researches in the tnmuli of the wolds and moors, conducted through several years by the Rev. Canon Greenwell of Durham, and with him Sir John Lubbock, Bart, (author of Pre-Historio Times); John Evans, Esq., F.R.S., F.8.A., of Hemel Hempstead; Mr. Monkman, Malton; and the Rev. Fred. Porter, Yedingham—which are still in progress—have shown that in pre-historio times two races of people inhabited Yorkshire. The earlier race (so thought) was peculiar for long heads (dolicho-cephalic), and buried in long barrows mostly, and had the plainest of pottery, and nothing but stone or flint weapons and implements. Another race, of round heads (brachy-cephalic), buried in round barrows, had a knowledge of metal, implements of bronze being found with their interments, along with ornate pottery and flint implements. The Rev. Canon Greenwell has published a work on the pre-historic people, under the title A Decade of SkuUa firm Ancient Northuvibria.EMINENT NATIVES OP YORKSHIRE.	TTIli
celebrated Ly Shakspere in "King Henry VI.Richard Scroop, also immortalized by Shakspere, beheaded for high treason in 1405 ; John Fisher, Bishop of Rochester, and afterwards Cardinal, born in 1458, and beheaded, for his opposition to Henry VIII., in 1535 ; Sir William Gascoigne, the chief justice who committed Prince Henry to prison for contempt of court, born 1350, died 1413 ; Sir William de la Pole, founder of the powerful family of Suffolk—the character of the fourth Earl and first Duke of which family is delineated in "King Henry VI., Part H."—died 1356 ; Andrew Marvell, the friend of Milton, and the consistent and unswerving advocate of constitutional principles, bom 1620, died 1678. In later times, Hull, the place which Andrew Marvell represented in Parliament, has given birth to William Wilberforce, the friend of the slave, and returned him as its representative. He was born in 1759, and died in 1833. Of noted commanders Yorkshire claims—Thomas, Lord Fairfax, the famous parliamentary general, born 1611, died 1671 ; Sir John Lawson, the celebrated admiral, died in action, after a brilliant career, 1665 ; Sir Martin Frobisher, knighted for his gallantry in an action with the Spaniards, and killed in an attack on Brest, 1594. Several noted travellers were born in this county : Armigel Waad, styled by Fuller, " the English Columbus," the first Englishman who set foot on the shores of America, died in 1568 ; Sir Thomas Herbert, who explored many parts of Asia and Africa, and published an account of his travels, was born in 1606, and died in 1682 ; and Captain James Cook, the circumnavigator of the globe, born 1728, killed by the savages at the Sandwich Islands, 1779.
In literature, Yorkshire presents a vast array of names. Alcuin, the most distinguished scholar of his age, and the friend of Charlemagne, was born about 735, and died 804. Other natives celebrated for their learning are—Roger Ascham, the tutor of Queen Elizabeth, died 1568 ; Sir Henry Saville, an accomplished Greek scholar, and the founder of two professorships at Oxford, born 1549, died 1622 ; Dr. Joseph Hill, editor of Schrevelius' Lexicon, born 1625, died 1707 ; Richard Bentley, the celebrated classical critic, born 1661, died 1742 ; John Potter, Archbishop of Canterbury, author of the "Antiquities of Greece," born 1674, died 1747 ; Dr. Conyers Middleton, author of the "Life of Cicero," "Letter from Rome," etc., born 1683, died 1750. Several natives of this county have taken a high placeXiiv	EMINENT NATIVES OP YORKSHIRE.
*
as topographical historians and antiquarians by their works upon different districts of it. The chief names are those of Roger Dodsworth (1585-1654), Ralph Thoresby (1658-1725), Thomas Gent (1691-1778), Dr. Burton (1697-1771), Francis Drake (died 1770), Dr. Young, Rev. J. Hunter, Rev. J. Graves, Rev. J. Tickell, T. Hinderwell, Rev. W. Eastmead, Rev. C. Wellbeloved, G. Poulson, Professor Phillips, John Browne, J. Walbran, etc.* In an enumeration of writers on divinity belonging to this county, an honoured place must be given to John de Wycliffe, " the Morning Star of the Reformation," and the translator of the Bible, born about 1324, died 1384 ; and to Miles Coverdale, the English reformer, born 1499, died 1580. More recent are— Matthew Pool, author of the "Synopsis Criticorum," a classic in biblical interpretation, born 1624, died 1679 ; John Tillotson, Archbishop of Canterbury, whose " Sermons " hold a high place among the literature of the pulpit, born 1630, died 1694 ; Joseph Bingham, author of the " Origiues Ecclesiasticae," born 1668, died 1723 ; Beilby Porteous, Bishop of London, author of a " Life of Archbishop Slaker," and various works in theology, and of some elegant poems, born 1731, died 1808 ; Joseph Milner, author of a valuable " History of the Church of Christ," born 1744, died 1820 ; John Pye Smith, D D., author of "The Scripture Testimony to the Messiah," and other works, born 1775, died 1850. Next let us notice the men of science :—John Smeaton, civil engineer, the architect of Eddystone Lighthouse, was born in 1724, and died in 1792 ; Joseph Priestley, author of numerous works on experimental philosophy and other subjects, born 1733, died 1804 ; John Ellerton Stocks, M.D., a noted botanist, born 1820, died 1854 ; Professor Sedgwick, of Cambridge University, author of " A Synopsis of the Classification of the Palaeozoic Rocks," was born about the year 1786. Yorkshire has produced a fair number of poets, though none of them stand in the highest rank. We take the principal names, in the order of time : John Gower, called by ]?ale " poet laureate," and said to have been the instructor of Chaucer, was the author of various works, written, some in English, others in French and Latin, died in 1402 ; George Sandys, translator of Ovid's Metamorphoses— a work to which Pope declares that English poetry owes much,
* Dr. Thomas Whitakei, the Dngdale of Yorkshire, was not a native of the county, being born in Norfolk in 1750. One or two of the latest of the names enumerated Above may also belong to other counties.EMINENT NATIVES OF YORKSHIRE.
XXV
was born, in 1577, and died in 1643 ; Edward Fairfax, the translator of Tasso, died in 1632 ; Sir Robert Stapleton, the translator of Juvenal and other classic poets, and author of some dramatic pieces, died in 1669 ; William Congreve, the dramatist, was born in 1669, and died in 1729 ; Sir Samuel Garth, authoT of "The Dispensary," and other poems, was born in 1671, and died in 1718 ; William Mason, best known by his dramatic poem of " Caractacus," and his biography of the poet Gray, was born in 1725, and died in 1797 ; Ebenezer Elliott, the "Corn-Law Rhymer," born 1781, died 1849 ; Herbert Knowles, best known by his exquisite "Lines written in the Churchyard of Richmond," died at the early age of nineteen, born 1797, died 1816 ; Monckton Milnes, MP., author of "Memorials of a ToUr in Greece," and three volumes of poems, born 1809. In other departments of literature are—David Hartley, author of " Observations on Man," born 1705, died 1757 ; John Foster, author of "Essays in a series of Letters," an " Essay on the Evils of Popular Ignorance," etc., born 1770, died 1839 ; the late Earl of Carlisle, author of a " Diary in Turkish and Greek Waters," born 1802 ; Edward Baines, M.P., author of a " History of the Cotton Manufacture," born 1806. Several names of novelists occur, all of them females : Mrs. Holland, author of " The Son of a Genius," and numerous works for the young, born 1770, died 1844 ; the Brontes —Charlotte, author of " Jane Eyre," " Shirley," and " Vilette," born 1816, died 1855—Emily, author of " Wuthering Heights," born 1819, died 1848—and Agnes, author of " Agnea Grey," and "The Tenant of Wildfell Hall," born 1822, died 1849 ; Mrs. Gaskell, the biographer of Miss Bronte, and author of " Ruth," " North and South," and other works; Miss Pardoe, author of " The City of the Sultan," " The Romance of the Harem," and numerous other works. To Yorkshire belong the painters-Benjamin Wilson, who flourished about 1760 ; William Kent, born 1685, (lied 1748 ; John Jackson, born 1778, died 1831 ; William Etty, R.A., born 1787, died 1849 ; and W. P. Frith, born 1819 ; the sculptor, John Flaxman, born 1755, died 1826 ; the engraver, William Lodge, born 1649, died 1689 ; and the actor, Richard John Smith, of the Adelphi, born 1786, died 1855.
The area of Yorkshire-is 5710 square miles, or 3,654,636 statute acres. The population, according to the census of 1871, is 2,436,113 ; being 1,204,784 males, and 1,231,329 females.
cxx vi
POPULATION OF YORKSHIRE.
The increase of population since 1861 has been 402,503 (the population at that census being 2,033,610. The increase per cent, since 1800, is at least 100. The total number of houses in 1871 was 542,199, of which 506,897 were inhabited, 29,289 uninhabited, and 6013 building. The average number of persons to each inhabited house is 4'81 ; and to each square mile nearly 419. The average number of acres to an inhabited house is 7'21, and to a person 1-53.
The county is divided into four parts—viz., the three Ridings and the Ainsty of York. For parliamentary purposes the West Riding is sub-divided into three districts—East, North, and South —each returning two members. The other two Ridings, and the Ainsty of the City of York, also return two members each, which, with the 26 members returned by the boroughs, make the total number of representatives for Yorkshire amount to 38. The North Riding contains an area of 2109 square miles, or 1,350,121 acres, and 291,589 persons. The occupations are chiefly agricultural, but mines employ upwards of 4000 persons. The total number of members returned from this Riding is 10. The East Riding, taking along with it the city of York, has an area of 1205 square miles, or 771,139 acres, and a population of 313,301. In this part of the county the number of persons employed in agriculture is almost equal to that of those engaged in every kind of manufacture. Cotton and flax, engines and ships, are the chief manufactures. The total number of members returned by this division of the county is 8. The West Riding is the most important part of the county in point of manufactures and commerce. Its extent is 2669 square miles, or 1,709,307 acres ; audits population, 1,831,223. This is the great seat of the woollen and iron manufactures, of which details will be given below, and under the respective towns where the manufactures are carried on. The West Riding is represented in Parliament by 22 members.
Agriculture is in a medium state of improvement, but is regarded as not so advanced as in Northumberland and Lincolnshire. Yorkshire, however, is more a grazing than an agricultural county. Craven, and the upper parts of the West Riding generally, are purely pastoral, there being scarcely any arable land in cultivation in this riding, except in the lower districts. In the East Riding and the lower parts of the North Riding, there are considerable tracts of good arable ground. Farms are generally small, and let at high rents from year to year. The total numberAGRICULTURE AND MANUFACTURES.
xxvii
of farmers in Yorkshire, according to the census of 1861, was 31,294; of whom 28,576 were males, and 2718 females. Farm labourers were reckoned at 83,514 ; 74,771 being males, and 8743 females. Cattle are mostly of the short-horned breed ; but there are large numbers of long-horns, and many varieties produced by crosses of these two breeds. Sheep are numerous, and also of different breeds. They are computed at 1,200,000, producing annually 28,000 packs of wooL Yorkshire has long been celebrated for its horses. Many of the most noted racers which have appeared on the turf were bred and trained in this county. The Cleveland bays are highly esteemed as carriage horses. Horses for agricultural and general purposes, are bred in great numbers in this county ; and the horse fairs which are held here at stated times are frequented by dealers from all parts of the kingdom.
The mineral productions of Yorkshire are—coal in abun dance, iron, lead, copper, alum, slate, limestone (some of it equal, if not superior, to the Derbyshire marble), building stone, etc. There are very valuable mineral waters in various parts of the county. Those of Harrogate and Scarborough have been long celebrated, and are much resorted to.
It is to its manufactures that this county is chiefly indebted for its importance and prosperity. In the North Riding 1929 persons are employed in mining iron and lead, and 723 on flax. In the East Riding 994 men and 1256 women are employed on cotton, 712 men on engines and boilers, and 633 on ships. The manufactures of the West Riding are very numerous. Fifteen of the chief of these give employment to 282,767 persons. The following are the most important of the statistics that go to make up this amouut:—Worsted employs 48,940 males, and 48,207 females ; woollen cloth, 53,532 males, and 27,749 females ; cotton, 13,282 males, and 11,129 females; flax, 7943 males, and 8955 females; stuff, 3072 males, and 2359 females; silk, 1034 males, and 984 females ; iron, 6990 males ; cutlery, 6029; files, 4177; nails, 1248 males, 189 females; engines and boilers, 6337 males ; coal, 21,148 males,-103 females.
A few statistics as to the value of the manufactures of Yorkshire may be appropriately given in this place. The worsted manufacture is computed to be of the total value of £13,100,000 —consisting of £10,000,000 for manufactured stuff pieces, and £3,100,000 for yarn exported and sent to Glasgow, Manchester,xxviii
RAILWAY COMMUNICATION.
and Norwich- The woollen manufactures are of nearly the samt value, being reckoned at about £13,000,000, sixty-six per cent ol the whole value of this manufacture in England (estimated by Mr. Baines, M. P., in 1858, at about twenty millions). In the year 1859, the quantity of ironstone raised in this county was 1,695,842 tons. In the same year, steel to the value of nearly £2,000,000 was made in the town of Sheffield alone. According to the last return, there were in Yorkshire 387 collieries, the produce of which was 9,284,000 tons.
With regard to the ownership of the land, it appears from the Domesday Book of 1873 that the county is very largely divided among small proprietors. In 1873 the West Riding was owned by 59,496 proprietors of less than one acre, and by 17,417 of an acre and upwards ; the North Riding by 10,115 proprietors of less than an acre, and by 6198 of an acre and upwards ; and the East Riding by 15,012 proprietors of less than an acre, and 4564 of an acre and upwards.
In the West Riding, from the same authority we find that the following were the proprietors owning more than 10,000 acres :—Charles Townley of Townley Park; Lord Harewood; Duke of Devonshire; Lord Fitz-william; A. Montagu of Ingmanthorpe; Duke of Norfolk; G. L. Fox of Bramham Park ; Lord Dartmouth ; W. Morrison of Malham Tarn ; Sir H. J. Tufton of Hothiield; T. W. S. Stanhope of Cannon Hall; Ayscough Fawkes of Farnley; James Farrer; Marquis of Ripon ; Sir H. D. Ingilby of Ripley Castle ; and the Duke of Leeds, Hornby Castle. In the North Riding the following proprietors were in the same position, viz.:—John Bower of Streatham Castle ; Lord Faversham ; Viscount Downe ; Lord Bolton ; Marquis of Ailesbury; Lord Carlisle ; Sir George O. Wombell of Newburgh Park; Lord Londesborough ; Mrs. Danby Harcourt of Swin-ton ; and Mrs. J. T. D. Hutton, Richmond. And in the East Riding:— Sir Tatton Sykes of Sledmere ; Lord Londesborough; Sir G. Cholmley of Boynton Hall; Lord Wenlock; Lord Hotham ; W..H. Bradley of Welton-in-Hull; W. F. Bethel of Rise Hall; Lord Leconfield; Lord Middleton; Viscountess Downe ; and A. C, Constable of Wassand.CITY OF YORK.
Hotels.— Station, at the Central Station ; Harker's York, St. Helen's Square ;
Abbott's North-Eastern.
Distances.
York from London, 188 miles; Birmingham, 124; Oxford, 196; Edinburgh, 209;
Newcastle, 87; Hull, 41J; Harrogate, 18£; Scarborough, 42f; Leeds, 25J;
Manchester, 67J; Liverpool, 99.
Market Day.—Saturday.
No city in the empire can boast of an antiquity greater or more celebrated than that of York. It can very well afford to dispense with the aid of the old monkish fables which claim as its founder a great-grandson of -5£neas, and contemporary of David. There can be no doubt that Caer Ebrauc, Caer Effroc, Eborac, Eboracum, or Euruic (not to mention any other forms of its ancient designation), was a Brigantian town of considerable importance long before Julius Agricola (a.d. 78) took up his residence in the north of England, and began to introduce Roman luxury and civilisation. The city owes its rise into importance to the Romans. Probably Agricola made it one of his principal stations ; but whether he did so or not, there are good grounds for believing that the Emperor Hadrian took up his residence here about 120. Alcuin, a native of this city, in the seventh century, speaks of its foundation by the Romans :—
" Hanc, Romana manus, muris et turribus altam, Fundavit primo—
Ut Beret ducibus secura potentia regni, Bt decus imperii, terrorque hostilibus armis."
B2
york-history of the city.
" This city first by Roman hand was formed, With lofty towers and high-built walls adorned, To give their leaders a secure repose, Honour to the empire, terror to their foes."
Oui space admits of only a brief outline of the History o* York. That history comprises many of the most important events in the national annals for sixteen centuries. Round the first rude British fortification many a fierce battle was fought, as the burial mounds that still rise on the smooth surface of the Wolds sufficiently testify. Here, when Yorkshire and England came under Roman rule, the " legio Bexta victrix" had its headquarters for 300 years. As might have been expected, the Romans have left abundant traces of themselves. Besides the wall, most of which, with the multangular tower, still remains in good preservation, there have been discovered tombs (plain and with inscriptions), statues, altars, fire-places, tiles, pipes, amphorae, urns, bronze instruments, ornaments of gold, silver, bronze, and jet, and numerous other valuable and interesting relics. It is recorded by Roman historians that the emperor SeT^rus died here. This was in 210. In 304, Constantius Chlorus took up his residence at York. Some historians are of opinion that his son Constantine the Great was born here ; but this is doubtfuL Constantine, however, was at York at the period of his father's death, and assisted at the ceremony of his deification. Under Hadrian, York had received the dignity of a civitas, and had been distinguished by the erection of a temple to Bellona. Under Constantine, Christian churches were erected; and, according to Gough, there was a bishop of York at the Council of Aries, in 314. When the Romans finally withdrew from Britain in 450, the Saxons landed on the invitation of the British princes, and, under Hengist, retook York from the Scots and Picts. In 524, Arthur, having signally defeated the Saxons, took possession of York without opposition, and celebrated the first Christmas ever held in Britain. We pass over the struggles between Saxons and Danes, which ensued after this period. York at first submitted to the Normans, after a brief resistance, in 1068. The next year, however, the Saxons, aided by the Danes, retook the city, putting the Norman garrison to the sword. William the Conqueror took a terrible vengeance, almost entirely depopulating the country between York and Durham—the number of human beings who perished being stated by some writers to have amounted to 100,000. The first parlia-YORK—HISTORY OP THE CITY.
3
ment mentioned in history was held at York by Henry PL in 1160 Parliaments were held in this city, more or less regularly, during the next five hundred years. During that period York took an important part in almost all the great public transactions which are recorded in English history. Here were held friendly conventions between the kings of Scotland and England. Here was Edward III. married to the beautiful and heroic Philippa ; and it was from this city that the queen, in her husband's absence, marched against the Scots, and gained the great victory of Neville's Cross. It was here that, in the reign of Hemy IV., Archbishop Scroop, and his friend Lord Mowbray, raised an army for the reformation of abuses, an enterprise which ended in their being treacherously seized and put to death. When the brave Richard Plantagenet, Duke of York, fell at the battle of Wakefield, the haughty Margaret of Anjou, in the insolence of her short-lived triumph, gave the order—
" Off with his head, and set it on York gates, So York may overlook the town of York."
His son Edward, having been proclaimed king at London, marched to York, where Henry VI., Margaret, and the Prince of Wales were stationed, and defeated them in the bloody battle of Towton. According to some accounts, Edward was crowned in the cathedral The events of the next few years are too well known to require to be recounted here. They are recorded in the poetry of Shakspere, and the romance of Bulwer, as well as on the n^ore sober page of history. Edward, when he landed in England to regain his crown, committed the deliberate act of perjury in the Minster—swearing that he only came to claim his private estates, and that he would be loyal to King Henry— which affixes to his memory a stigma which his apologists in vain try to remove. The city welcomed him cordially when he returned in triumph. Richard IH. visited York after his usurpation, and was greeted with a splendid reception. Some writers affirm that he was crowned here, but there seem to be no grounds for the assertion. Three years after, Richard fell at BosWorth Field, and Hemy VII. made a " progress in the north," during which he made a grand entry into York. The dissolution of the religious houses by Henry VIII. caused much discontent here, and, in the " Pilgrimage of Grace" which ensued, York was taken by the rebels, but speedily recaptured, and the ringleaders4
YORK-HISTORf OP THE CITY.
executed. This insurrection, and other disturbances, led to the institution} by king Henry, of the Council of the North, which met in this city, and continued to execute its oppressive functions till it was abolished in 1640 by the Long Parliament In 1572 the Earl of Northumberland was beheaded here, for the abortive insurrection in favour of Mary Queen of Scots and the Roman Catholic religion. James I., while going to London to receive the English crown, visited York on his way, and was welcomed with much enthusiasm. Hi a unfortunate son removed his court to York, when his difficulties with the Parliament were increasing. The battle-field of Marston Moor, where Charles' hopes were completely wrecked, is within sight of the city walls. York held out for the king for thirteen weeks, but was at length obliged to make an honourable capitulation. At the Revolution, the citizens officially declared for the Prince of Orange, by presenting him with an address, in which they congratulated him as the deliverer of the Protestant religion. Since that time York has ceased to have a place of much importance in history. Yet one more event, and one hardly less important than any of those which have been referred to, remained to be recorded—to York belongs the honour of being the birth-place of the British Association for the Advancement of Science, which was organized here in September 1831.
" The changes," remarks Mr. Phillips, " which York has experienced in the course of the present century have not effaced, but have much impaired, its antique and singular character. The ramparts reared over Roman walls and Roman villas open to admit Stephenson and his chariots, alike impressed with the stamp of the latest iron age; railway stations replace the abbeys and hospitals which sheltered within the walls; the castle is transformed into a jail; the Gothic bridge is gone; the very river has lost its tide; and we can hardly trace the ford or ferry by which the soldiers passed from the camp of Eboracum to enjoy the baths on the road to Calcaria.
" But nature still endures; and many of the monuments of other days remain. From the summit of Clifford's, which replaced Earl Waltheofs Tower, we trace the woody vale across which, in earlier times, the cohorts marched to Derventio. The road remains which conducted Hadrada to a bloody grave, and Edward IY. to a troubled crown; and, over all, more durable and unchangeable than Norman Tower or Roman road, the10IIK-EMINENT NATIVES-POPULATION.
5
smooth and shadowy Wold, crowned by the burial-mounds of Brigantian chiefs, rises calm and cold as in primeval times."*
The city of York has given to the world not a few eminent men. We mention the principal names. The learned Alcuin was born here, probably before the middle of the eighth century. His fame as a man of learning and genius caused Charlemagne to invite him to his court, and become his pupil. Alcuin contributed much to the revival of learning under that great emperor. He is even regarded by some writers as the virtual founder of the University of Paris, his academical institutions having pioneered the way for its establishment. He died, full of honours, at the Abbey of St. Martin, at Tours, in the year 804. Guy Fawkes was born here in 1570. He was of a good family; but, having become a convert to Romanism, he served in the Spanish army in the Netherlands, and was eventually deputed to carry out the plot, which has made his name a byeword. Sir. T. Herbert, the celebrated traveller, 1606. Matthew Pool, author of " Annotations," 1624. Thomas Calvert, and his nephew James, both learned Nonconformist divines and authors, were born in this city. The former died in 1679, the latter in 1698. Beilby Porteus, bishop of London, noted both as an elegant poet and writer in divinity, was born here in 1731, and died in 1808. John Flaxman, R.A., the famous sculptor, was born in 1755, arid died in 1826. George Wallis, physician and satirist, translator of the works of Sydenham, was born in 1740, and died in 1802. Godfrey Higgins, author of "The Celtic Druids," etc., was born in 1771, and died in 1833. Richard John Smith, the celebrated actor of the Adelphi, was born in 1786, and died in 1855.
York is situated at the junction of the rivers Ouse and Foss, in one of the richest and most extensive vales in England. It is a county in itself, and the see of an archbishop, and occupies a position at the point where the three Ridings of Yorkshire meet. It is nearly equidistant between London and Edinburgh, and is an important centre of railway communication. The population, according to the census of 1871, is 50,761, and the inhabited houses, 10,268, being an increase, since 1861, of 5376 persons, and 1106 inhabited houses. The city returns two
* " Rivers, Mountains, aDd Sea-coasts of Yorkshire."6
york minster—its history.
members to Parliament. Its commerce is considerable, though scarcely so great as it once was. There are some large iron-foundries, and an extensive glass-manufactory. Brewing and comb-making are extensively carried on ; and among other manufactures may be mentioned gloves, leather, paper-hangings, confectionary, etc. Though it seems, with its narrow streets and ancient buildings, to belong to the past, York has nevertheless much of the life and activity of the present, and seems to hold out the promise of advancing in importance and material wealth as much as it has formerly declined. It is provided with the various institutions which we expect to find in a city which still claims to be the metropolis of the north of England. Such of these as require to be noticed will be mentioned afterwards.
Horlt iHtiuSter.
The Minster is the great attraction of this ancient city. It is acknowledged to be one of the most magnificent Gothic structures in existence, and is visited annually by travellers from every part of the civilized world.
The venerable Bede informs us that the first building on the site of this cathedral was erected by Edwin, the first Christian king of Northumbria, who was baptized on Easter day, 627. By his orders., the little wooden oratory, hastily erected for the occasion, was replaced by an edifice of stone. The building having fallen into a state of decay, was repaired and beautified by Wilfrid, the third archbishop. The cathedral suffered much in the deadly struggles of which York was the scene in 1068 ; but it was rebuilt on a larger scale, about 1080, by Aichbishop Thomas. Again we read of its partial destruction by fire in 1137, and of its tardy restoration in 1171. At that time Archbishop Roger rebuilt the choir in the Norman style. The commencement of the present structure, however, may be dated from 1227, when Walter de Grey erected the south transe-pt. In 1260, the north transept was built by John le Romayne, father of the archbishop of that name. The archbishop was not behind his father in zeal; for in 1291 he laid the foundation of the nave, which, along with the west front, was completed by his successor about 1345. About the same period the chapter-house was erected. The choir, as built by Archbishop Roger in 1171, not harmonizing with the rest of the building, was taken down, and the first stone of the present choir laid by Archbishop Thoresby, July 19,YORK MINSTER—ITS HISTORY.
7
1361. The funds for this, as for the other parts of the building, were principally derived from the liberality of the archbishop, who superintended the work, and from the proceeds of " indulgences." The choir was not entirely completed till about 1400. The central tower, which had been erected as a bell tower about 1260, was re-cased, heightened, and changed into a lantern tower, being adorned in the Perpendicular style, to correspond with the rest of the building, in 1405. The structure was completed by the erection of the south-west tower, commenced in 1432, and the north-west tower, commenced about 1470. The cathedral was reconsecrated in 1472. We shall quote only two more dates connected with the history of York Minster—1829 and 1840—both of them memorable for destructive conflagrations. On February 2d, 1829, a madman named Jonathan Martin, having concealed himself behind the tomb of Archbishop Grenfield, after evening service, set fire to the choir. The fire not being discovered till next morning, all efforts to save the choir were unavailing. The conflagration was, however, prevented from extending farther. The whole of the beautiful tabernacle work of carved oak, the stalls, the pulpit, the organ, the roof, and the rest of the wood work of the choir, were destroyed. The damage was estimated at £65,000 ; which sum was soon raised by public subscription. The repairs were completed, and the Cathedral re-opened, in 1832. Again in 1840 this noble edifice suffered seriously from fire. The fire originated in the south-west tower, which it reduced to a mere shell, and then spread to the roof of the nave, which was entirely destroyed. The damage was £23,000. The restoration of the parts which were destroyed has been admirably effected. A good deal has been done within the last year or two to beautify the Cathedral both internally and externally. These improvements, we believe, are mainly due to the zeal and energy of the present Dean of York. The south transept has recently undergone a thorough restoration, under the superintendence of Mr. Street, architect. It was re-opened November 1874. The construction of a new bridge across the Ouse opposite the Cathedral, and the removal of old houses in Blake Street and adjoining streets, very much improve both the access to, and the exterior view of, this noble edifice.
It is scarcely necessary to observe that, to obtain anything like a just conception of the building as a whole, it must be leisurely viewed from all sides, as well as examined in detail in8
YORK MINSTER-EXTERIOR.
its various parts. It is to be hoped that still more may yet be done to open up the surrounding space by the removal of bouses of undue proximity to tbe Cathedral.
Exterior.
The ground-plan of the Cathedral is a Latin cross, and tho building consists of a nave with side aisles ; a transept with aisles ; a choir and aisles, with a chapel in continuation. There are, besides, a chapter-house and other buildings, in addition to the general plan, connected with the different parts of the cathedral. The length of the building, from base to base of the buttresses, is 524^ feet, and its extreme breadth is about 250 feet*
The West Front, with which we shall begin, consists of a centre and two side divisions, corresponding with the nave and •aisles. These divisions are separated by buttresses, which are richly enchased with niches and canopies in relief. The buttresses form the corners of two uniform towers that rise, massive yet graceful, at the extremity of the aisles. The elevation of the central portion commences with an elegant entrance. It is divided into two doorways by a pillar composed of three clustered columns with foliated capitals. The mouldings round this entrance are ornamented with sculpture of much delicacy and beauty. The arch is surmounted by an acutely pointed pediment. Above the door is a great window of exquisite beauty, " an unrivalled specimen," says Mr. Britton, " of the leafy tracery that marks the style of the middle of the fourteenth century." The west front is adorned with various statues (among them that of Archbishop Melton, who completed this part of the cathedral), and other sculptured ornaments.
The Nave is divided by buttresses, on both sides, into seven symmetrical divisions. The north side, however, is in a plainer style than the south. The buttresses on the south side are adorned with niches, which formerly contained statues, and are surmounted by lofty and elegant pinnacles. On the north side the buttresses have each a low pyramidal cap. Each division of the aisles has a fine window in three lights, made by mullions. The clerestory windows above correspond in number. They are of five lights, and have generally a circle or wheel in the head of the arch, with quatrefoil traceiy.
* The extreme length of St. Paul's Cathedral is 500 feet, and the breadth is 350 feet. Westminster Abbey is 375 feet from east to west, and 200 from north to south.YORK MINSTER WINDOW ARMORIAL
(Uppermost N. Aisle) pa.£e 8YORK MINSTER—EXTERIOR.
9
The South Transept is the oldest portion of the present building, with the exception of the crypt. The usual entrance to the cathedral is by the porch in the centre of this front. The windows are narrow and acutely pointed, and the ornaments are more simple and chaste in their style than those of the nave. There is a magnificent rose window in the pediment which surmounts this.front. On the west side of this transept there is an ugly building used as a Will Office, and on the east there are Vestries, which it is a marvel to every tourist of taste that the people of York should suffer to disfigure their magnificent minster.
The North Transept differs materially in style from the south. Five splendid lancet windows surmount an arcade of trefoil arches, occupying the greater part both of the width and height of this transept.
The Choir (including the Lady Chapel, its continuation) is built in the same style as the nave, but is of a later date, and displays the progress of Gothic architecture from the decorated to the perpendicular order. The great east window, which has been pronounced by the historian of York " the finest window in the world," has on each side of it buttresses adorned with tabernacle work, and surmounted with octagonal crocketed pinnacles. A figure, supposed to be meant for Archbishop Thoresby, who built this part of the edifice, is above the window. Beneath it is a row of heads, representing our Saviour and his twelve apostles.
The Chapter House, an octagonal building connected with the north transept, has a beautiful decorated window in each side, and massive buttresses at each angle.
The Central, or Lantern Tower, has on each side two perpendicular windows. Its four angles are strengthened by buttresses, terminating somewhat abruptly at the top. Its top, which is beautifully battlemented, is 213 feet high. This tower is 65 feet broad, and is said to be the most massive in England.
Interior.*
Entering by the great west door, a view of the entire length of the minster is obtained. The vaulted roof, a hundred feet high, stretches in a grand vista of five hundred feet to the east window.
* Morning prayers, 10 to 11 (Sundays, 10.30 to 1); evening prayers, 4 to 5. On Sunday and Wednesday evenings, anthem with full choir. Interior not shown during services. Admission to choir, with its aisles, etc., 6d. Extra fees for ascending towers. The nave, aisles, and transects, are open to the public, free.1.	Tomb of Archbishop Roger.
2.	The Font.
3.	Tomb of Archbishop Walter de Grey.
4.	Tomb of Archbishop Gren field.
5.	Organ Screen.
6.	Tomb of Archbishop Scroop.
WEST ENTRANCE
GROUND PLAN OF YORK UINST£&___
JO	20	$o	40
"YORK MINSTER.-WEST "WINDOW (Blacks Guide pa|e 11.)YORK MINSTER—INTERIOR.
11
the great clustered pillars oil either side of the nave presenting a perspective which perhaps cannot be excelled in any similar building in. the kingdom. The effect is greatly heightened by the mellowed light that streams down from the painted windows. The Nave has much interesting sculpture in the capitals of the columns, and in the ceiling. The west window, which is 54 feet high and 30 broad, is reckoned one of the finest, in the decorated style, existing in this country. The figures in the stained glass are those of archbishops of this see, along with various kings and saints. There are similar figures in the windows of the aisles. A tomb in the north aisle is ascribed to Archbishop Roger.
Coming next to the transepts, the South Transept is, as we have already remarked, the oldest part of the building. It is regarded as a fine specimen of the Early English style, and has lately been beautifully restored. The circular window in this part of the building is 30 feet in diameter. Beneath it are three large windows, also filled with painted glass, the figures on which are meant to represent the saints—William, Peter, Paul, and Wilfred. In the west aisle of this transept is the baptismal font, formed of dark shell marble. The east aisle possesses two tombs deserving a careful inspection. That of Archbishop Walter de Grey is extremely interesting. It consists of two tiers of trefoil arches, supported by eight columns, with capitals of luxuriant foliage, sustaining a canopy. Beneath the canopy is a recumbent figure of the archbishop. This is one of the oldest and finest tombs of this kind in* the country. Walter de Grey died in. 1255. Near this tomb is one ascribed to Archbishop Godfrey de Ludham or Kineton, who died in 1264. It has a sculptured crozier upon it, but no legible inscription. In passing to the north transept the tourist will not fail to pause under the great Central Tower, supported by four pointed arches 109 feet high, each side having two beautiful Perpendicular windows. The North Transept has a series of beautiful lancet windows in its front, called the Five Sisters, from their fair donors and designers. The east aisle contains the altar-tomb of Archbishop Grenfield, who died in 1315. The effigy of the archbishop is engraved in brass, which, with one exception, is the earliest brass of an ecclesiastic in the kingdom. Here also is an altar-tomb to Stephen Beckwith, M.D., who died in 1843, leaving bequests to charitable and other purposes, amounting altogether to £46,600. The west aisle contains another fine altar-tomb in white marble to the12
YORK MINSTER-INTERIOR.
memory of tlie late Archbishop Harcourt, who died in 1847. The figure of the archbishop is recumbent, with his hands folded over a bible lying on his breast. It was executed by Mr. Noble of London, in 1855. In this aisle is the monument of Thomas Haxey, treasurer of the cathedral, who died in 1424. It consists of the effigy of a wasted corpse wrapped in a winding-sheet, and is very properly inclosed within an iron grating to preserve it from further dilapidation.
The Organ Screen at the entrance into the choir is regarded by architects as one of the finest pieces of work of this description in the world. It is of stone, and is in the richest form of the Perpendicular style. In fifteen niches, seven on the north side and eight on the south side of the choir door, are placed statues of the kings of England, from William the Conqueror to Henry VL The last of the series is a modern work. Above these statues is a smaller series of niches, with figures of angels playing different musical instruments. The screen is 25 feet high and 50 broad. It belongs to the end of the fifteenth or the beginning of the sixteenth century ; but the name of its designer is unknown.* The Organ, which is placed over this screen, is one of the finest in the kingdom. It was built in 1832, to supply the place of the one destroyed by the conflagration of 1829—a donation of <£3000 being given towards the expense of its construction by the late Right Hon. and Rev. John Lumley Savile, Earl of Scarborough, and Prebendary of South Newbald. It underwent extensive alterations in -1859, at a further expense of upwards of .£1300. It has now four sets of manuals, each embracing from CC to G in alto—56 notes, with pedals compassing from CCC to F—30 notes ; the whole consisting of 69 stops, and 4266 pipes.
The Choir is entered through a beautiful canopied recess, with iron gates. It would be impossible, in our limited space, to describe all the beauties of this, the richest part of the cathedral. There are fifty-two. exquisitely carved oak stalls, with beautiful canopies in tabernacle-work. The archbishop's throne, also of oak, is covered with a lofty canopy, which is much admired. The pulpit, too, is a handsome work. The wood work of the. choir is a restoration of that destroyed by fire in 1829. Among other objects of interest are a brazen eagle-stand, presented
* The master mason, during its erection, was William Hyndley, whose device, a \ind lodged, is visible in the upper portion of the decorations.YORK MI-NSTER.- EAST WINDOW. C Blades Guide pa.£e 13.)YORK MINSTER-INTERIOR.
13
by Thomas Croft, D.D., 1686, and an ancient chair, said to have been used in the coronation of several Saxon kings. The Altar Screen is an exquisite specimen of modern workmanship, as is the Eeredos, which has been added within the last few years. It is of oak, with figures in terra cotta representing the Crucifixion, and is so constructed as to open and shut. On Good Friday it is shut.
The Lady Chapel extends from the altar screen to the eastern end of the cathedral Here the attention is at once arrested bv the great East Window, " the wonder of the world," as Drake calls it, '' both for masonry and glazing." It is 75 feet high, and 32 broad. The tracery of the upper part is extremely beautiful. The stained glass of this window consists of about 200 compartments, each about a yard square, and containing figures of about two feet in height. The subjects are taken from the whole range of Scripture—those from the Apocalypse being interesting as indicating to some extent the notions prevalent at the time (1400) as to the interpretation of that book. There are several fine monuments in the Lady Chapel to archbishops of York and other persons. The monument of most historical interest in this part of the cathedral is that of Archbishop Scroop, which is under the first arch on the north side of the east window. It is an altar-tomb of freestone, covered with a slab of black marble, without inscription. Scroop has been immortalised by Shakspere :—
-" Tou, lord archbishop,
Whose see is by a civil peace maintained ;
Whose beard the silver hand of peace hath touched;
Whose learning and good letters peace hath tutored;
Whose white investments figure innocence,
The dove and very blessed spirit of peace,—
Wherefore do you so ill translate yourself
Out of the speech of peace that bears such grace,
Into the harsh and boisterous tongue of war,
Turning your books to greaves, your ink to blood,
Tour pens to lances, and your tongue divine
To a loud trumpet, and a point of war ? "—Act lv. Some I.
-" With you, lord bishop,
It is even so :—Who hath rifct heard it spoken How deep you were within the books of God ? To us, the speaker in his parliament; To ns the imagined voice of God himself; The very opener and intelligencei, Between the grace, the sanctities of heaven, And our dull workings: 0 who skall believe.14
YORK MINSTKK-INTERIOR.
But you misuse the reverence of your place, Employ the countenance and grace of Heaven, As a false favourite doth his prince's name, In deeds dishonourable ?"
Scroop was beheaded in 1405. He was so beloved by the people that his grave was resorted to as a shrine. Among the other monuments deserving of notice here, ate those of Archbishop Markham, under the next arch, a beautiful altar-tomb, richly carved and emblazoned with shields of arms ; Archbishop Bowet, under the first arch on the north side, a stately Gothic arch of the time of Henry VL ; Archbishop Matthew, a modern altar-tomb, erected in place of one destroyed by the fire of 1829 ; Archbishop Sharp, a marble monument of the Corinthian order, with his mitred effigy ; Mrs. Matthew, with her kneeling figure ; and Archbishop Frewen, a 6tately Corinthian tomb, with his full length recumbent figure in canonical robes. Most of the old effigies, in the Lady Chapel and aisles of the choir are coloured after life.
The Aisles of the choir contain numerous monuments, many of them worthy of an attentive examination. We give a list of the most interesting. In the south aisle the following monuments are worthy of notice:—
Three monuments to officers and soldiers who fell in the service of their country: the first a handsome monumental brass to the memory of soldiers who lost their lives in the Crimea; the second a marble monument to officers and soldiers who fell in Burmah ; the third, in white marble, set in black, to upwards of 500 men of the 33d Regiment who died in the Crimea.
To Sir William Gee, secretary to James I., and a member of his privy council. It is of the Corinthian order, and contains the effigies of himself, his two wives, and five children, in the attitude of prayer. He died in 1611.
To Archbishop Hufcton, with his recumbent figure between two columns, surmounted by coats of arms. His three children kneel in three arches below. Archbishop Hutton died in 1605.
To Archbishop Lamplugh, who died in 1691. His mitred effigy stands on a pedestal, and bears a crozier in its hand. This monument is modern.
To Archbishop Dolben, bearing his recumbent effigy, mitred. Above is a group of cherubs, with other sculptured ornaments. This archbishop in his youth made some figure in arms. He was a standard-bearer in the royal army at the battle of Marston Moor, and was wounded afterwards in the defence of York. He died in 1686.
A monument in white marble, by Westmacott, to William Burgh, D.C.L., of York, author of a work " On the Holy Trinity," who died in 1808. It bears a full-length emblematic figure of Religion. On its base is a poetical inscription by John B. S. Morritt, Esq. of Rokeby, the friend of Sir Walter Scott.
A monument of veined marble, with Corinthian columns, to the memory ofYORK MINSTER-INTERIOR.
15
William Wentworth, Earl of Strafford, son of the famous earl of that name. He died in 1695. The monument contains the effigies of himself and his lauy.
To the Hon. Thomas Wentworth, third son of Edward, Lord Rockingham. Thiu monument consists of a full-length statue of the deceased, erect, in a Roman habit, and with the left hand leaning upon an urn. It also bears a fine female figure in a sitting posture.
The north aisle also contains many monuments. We note those most deserving of examination, beginning at the east end of the aisle :—
A monument to Archbishop Sterne, grandfather of the author of " Tristram Shandy." His mitred figure reclines on a pedestal, the head resting on the hand. Above is an architrave, frieze, and cornice, adorned with drapery and festoons. He died in 1683.
To Sir George Saville, who was a representative of Yorkshire in five successive parliaments, and died in 1784. This monument was erected by a general subscription in the county. It bears a statue of the deceased, leaning on a pillar.
A pyramidal monument to Sir Thomas Davenport. Died 1786.
Another modern tomb to the Hon. Dorothy Langley, who died in 1824. It has a fine canopy, with pinnacles.
A monument to Vice-Admiral Medley, with bust, arms, naval implements, etc. He died in 1747.
A monument, with inscriptions, to the memory of Charles Howard, Earl of Carlisle, who died in 1684; Sir John Fenwicke, bis son-in-law, who was executed for high treason in 1696; and Lady Mary Fenwicke, his daughter, and wife of Sir John, The monument was erected by Lady Mary to her father and husband. It is com posed of two pilasters and a circular pediment, adorned with cherubim, coats ol arms, a bust of the earl, and several urns.
A fine antique monument to Sir William Ingram and his wife, with their figures in the costume of the time of James I. Sir William died in 1623. His epitaph is worth quoting :—" Here the judge of testators lies dead in Christ, the judge and testator of the new covenant. He has given these legacies—himself to the Lord, his joys to heaven, his deeds to the world, his gains to his friends, his body to the earth. The hearts of his friends contain a better picture of his character; but, would you know his whole conduct, you must follow him to heaven."
The monument of Sir Henry Belasis and his lady. It is composed of a large canopy, supported by columns. Under it are their effigies, in the costume of the period Below are the figures of their children.
The monupient of Archbishop Savage, a fine altar-tomb, somewhat mutilated. The effigy of the archbishop lies under an arch. He died in 1507, and his tomb is regarded as a beautiful specimen of the monumental architecture of the period.
The last tomb we shall notice is that of Prince William de Hatfield, second son of Edward III., who died in the eighth year of his age. His recumbent figure, in alabaster, much defaced, with a coronet on his head, and a lion at his feet, is clad In an embroidered vest and cloak. The effigy lies under a beautiful canopy.
The Crypt may be reached by a flight of steps, descending from either of the aisles. This is the oldest portion of the edifice. The architecture is Norman, though not unmingled with16
YORK MINSTER-INTERIOR.
work of a later date. The roof is groined, and supported by six Norman pillars. The excavations consequent upon the fire of 1829 led to the discovery of another crypt, extending eastward, nearly the whole length of the choir. It contains numerous interesting portions of Saxon and Norman architecture, but is seldom shewn to the visitor, owing to the dense darkness.
The Vestry adjoins the south aisle of the choir. It contains various curiosities. Chief of these is the horn of Ulphus. The tradition connected with it is, that Ulphus, a Saxon prince, to hinder his two sons from quarrelling about their inheritance, solemnly presented the whole of his lands and revenues to God and St. Peter, accompanying the gift with the ceremony of kneeling before the altar of the Cathedral, and drinking the wine with which he had filled this horn. The horn is of ivory, and is a curious and valuable relic of ancient art! Archbishop Scroop's indulgence cup, some antique silver chalices, a silver crozier, archiepiscopal rings, an old copy of the bible, with its chain attached, and other relics, are also shewn here.
The Chapter-House is on the north side of the cathedral, and is entered by a vestibule from the east aisle of the north transept. It is octagonal in shape, and is 63 feet in diameter, and 67 feet 10 inches high. Each side of the house, except that in wliich is the entrance, has a large and beautiful window, filled with stained glass. Much of the beauty of this building is owing to the absence of any central pillar (so often found in chapterhouses) for the support of the roof, which is of oak, beautifully groined. Forty-four stone stalls are ranged round the entire circumference, below the windows, for the dignitaries who compose the chapter. Each of these stalls has a fine projecting canopy, composed of three acute arches, crowned with canopies, and ending in finials. Above the canopies, a gallery goes round the wall on the level of the sills of the windows. The Chapter-House was carefully and tastefully restored in 1845, £3000 having been left for the purpose by Dr. Beck with. Few who examine this beautiful building will deny that it is indeed an architectural gem, and that the inscription in Saxon characters over the entrance door has in it not a little appropriateness :—
" TJt Rosa Flos Florum,
Sic est Domus ista Domoram."
(As is the rose the flower of flowere,
So of houses is this of ouib.)york—saint mary's abbey.
17
The Towers may "be ascended, From the central tower a magnificent prospect is obtained. The eye can sweep over an immense extent of the great vale which extends from Durham into Nottinghamshire and Lincoln. There is a fine peal of bells in the south-west tower, the bequest of Dr. Beckwith; and in the north-west tower is a monster bell, purchased by subscription (£2000), one of the largest in England. It was erected in 1845, and strikes only at noon.
The principal Dimensions of the Minster are as follows :—■
External—Extreme length, 524^ feet; breadth (across the transepts), 250 ; height of central tower, 213 ; breadth of do., 65 ; height of western towers, 202 ; breadth of do., 32.
Internal—Extreme length, 486 feet; breadth (across the transepts), 222|. Choir—length, 222£ ; breadth, 99|; height, 102. Nave—length, 264 ; breadth, 104j ; height, 99£. Transepts—length, 322 ; breadth, 93^. Organ screen—height, 25 • breadth, 50. Lantern tower—height, 188. East window— height, 76 ; breadth, 32. West window—height, 54 ; breadth, 30. " Five sisters "—height, 54 ; breadth of each, 5^. Chapterhouse—height, 67 ; diameter, 63.
Near the Minster, on its north side, are the Deanery, the Library, and the Residence of the Canons Residentiary. The Deanery and the Residentiary are modern. The Library was formerly a chapel belonging to the archiepiscopal palace, part of the remains of which still stand between it and the Residentiary. The Library contains some rare and valuable works, amongst which are Queen Elizabeth's Prayer Book, with autograph, and two York Breviaries.
Saint Mary's Abbey and the Museum Gardens.—The Gardens of the Yorkshire Philosophical Society contain within their bounds such an assemblage of objects of interest as is perhaps scarcely to be met with in the same compass in any other part of the kingdom. Undoubted Roman, Saxon, and Norman remains may here be studied and compared with each other, and with the wonderfully beautiful Early English architecture of the ruined Abbey of St. Mary. In addition to these remains, which are the chief attractions of these pleasantly laid out grounds, there is an excellent museum, containing, among its curiosities, relics of a still older date connected with the county. A
o18
YORK-SALNT MARY'S ABBEY.
few hours may be passed both pleasantly and profitably in these gardens.*
St. Mary's Abbey ■will probably first claim the attention of the tourist, when he visits the Museum Gardens. The early history of this beautiful ruin is involved in some obscurity. It appears, however, to have been founded about the year 1078. when Alan, Earl of Richmond, gave a church and four acres of land to some persecuted monks of Whitby. The church was dedicated to St. Olave. In 1088, William Rufus laid with his own hand the foundation of a larger building, which was dedicated to St. Mary. This, the original abbey, was destroyed by fire in 1137. In 1270, the abbot, Simon de Warwick, undertook to rebuild it; and he lived to Bee it completed, which was effected in twenty-two years. This abbey soon grew to be one of the most powerful and important in the kingdom. Its abbot had a mitre and a seat in Parliament. At the Dissolution in 1540, there were 50 monks in the establishment, and the yearly revenues were rated at £2091 :4:7J of total income, and <£1650 : 0 : 7£ of clear value—a great sum for those days. Soon after the Dissolution, an order was issued for the erection, on a portion of its site, of a residence for the Lord President of the newly instituted Council of the North ; and accordingly the church and offices of the abbey were dismantled. The palace so built was called the King's Manor, and is now used as a school for the blind, and dedicated to the memory of William Wilberforce. In 1701, license was granted to the authorities to take materials from this venerable ruin to repair York Castle; and again in 1705, it was used as a quarry for the restoration of one of the city churches. At a later date, it afforded stone for the repair of Beverley Minster; and the work of demolition might have been consummated ere this, had not the Yorkshire Philosophical Society succeeded in obtaining from Government a grant of the abbey and the greater part of its site. Considerable portions of the old walls have been excavated, and many interesting sculptured remains have been discovered.
The principal remains of the abbey consist of the north wall of the nave of the church. It has eight windows, the lights and tracery of which, alternately varied, are extremely beautiful.
* The charge for admission Is Is., except on Saturday, when it is Id. During the summer months, a military band plays in the Gardens once a week—on which occasions they form a fashionable promenade.york—the museum gardens.
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The church has been 371 feel long and 60 "broad. From the portions of it which yet remain, the west front must have been very beautiful; and the ornaments of the doorway are much admired. The bases of the pillars and walls of the choir may be seen, as may also those of the chapter-house. An old Norman arch, now the entrance to the Museum Gardens from Marygate, formed the principal entrance. In the Bootham portion of the wall, built by the monks to defend them from the assaults of the citizens, is a similar arch, and another near the Hospitium.
The Museum is an elegant Doric structure, erected in 1827. The collections in natural history and geology are extensive and arranged with systematic care. The museum belongs to the Yorkshire Philosophical Society. An Ichthyosaurus Cras-simanus, 30 feet in length, found in the alum shale to the north of Whitby, is believed to be the largest tolerably perfect specimen of this gigantic fossil monster known. There is here also a Plesiosaurus Zetlandicus, from the lias of Lofthouse near Redcar, the only example known of this remarkable species. Among other objects deserving of attention here, is the interesting collection of bones of extinct British quadrupeds from Bielbeck's farm, near Market Weighton, including the lion, bison, rhinoceros, etc.; tibia of the mammoth, found at Pocklington; as well as a quantity of the bones found in the famous Kirkdale Cave. The Theatre contains the earliest known specimens of English Tapestry, 1578. Catalogues of the contents of the museum may be had on the spot.
The Hospitium, a singular building of stone and timber, in the lower part of the grounds, is supposed to have been erected for the accommodation of strangers who were not admitted to the principal apartments of the monastery. It has been restored, and is now used as a museum for antiquities. The Roman relics, in particular, are numerous and interesting, including statues, altars, tiles, urns, coffins, rings of silver, gold, bronze, etc.
The Multangular Tower, so named from its having ten sides, forming nine obtuse angles, is an object of very great interest to antiquarians. It is built of neat and regular courses of small squared blocks of stone, with five rows of red bricks as a " bond." There cannot be the slightest doubt that this is a Roman work; this point having been decisively settled by the discovery of Roman legionary inscriptions in the lower courses of the interior. It formed one of the angle towers in the walls of20
york-churches.
Eburacum; a portion of which is still to be seen here, passing from the tower in a north-easterly direction. These remains of Roman work are in excellent preservation.
St. Leonard's Hospital, the ruins of which are on the right on entering the grounds, has been much more extensive .than would appear from its present remains. It is said to have been originally founded by Athelstane, the Saxon, in 936. Through the favour of subsequent kings, and the rich grants it received from time to time, this hospital became one of the largest and best endowed foundations in the north of England. The present building was erected after the fire of 1137, which destroyed the former edifice. The existing remains are very interesting. They consist of the entrance passage, the ambulatory, and the chapel, a beautiful specimen of early English.
The Exhibition Buildings occupy a position north of the Museum Gardens. They contain a collection of pictures, and are used for concerts, etc. Admission' 6d.
Churches.—Many of these are of considerable antiquity, and would attract more attention but for the presence of the Minster. It is manifestly impossible to give a detailed account of even those which are most worthy of notice. Our space only admits of a list of the names and positions of the churches, which we give alphabetically, with the briefest possible notes of the principal features of interest of the most important of them.
All Saints, North Street. This church is a mixture of the Decorated and Perpendicular styles. It has a fine spire and some good Btained glass, which well repays the most careful inspection.
All Saints, Pavement, a modern edifice erected on the site of an ancient structure. In ancient times, says tradition, a lantern used to be suspended nightly on its tower, to guide travellers through the forest of Galtres. The present lantern tower is a very graceful erection. The pulpit bears the date 1634.
Christ Church, in King Square, has been recently restored. It stands on the site of the ancient Imperial Palace of Eboracum.
Holy Trinity, in Goodramgate, containing some curious stained glass, and several old monuments.
Holy Trinity, Micklegate, dilapidated and old, contains the remains of Dr. Burton. The foundation walls are of Roman masonry.
St. Cnix, Pavement, with a brick tower, was built by Sir Christoper Wren, in 1697.YOHK—CHURCHES.
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St. Dennis, in Walmgate, has a Norman doorway. The style of this church is a mixture of the Decorated and the Perpendicular. Henry, Earl of Northumberland, who fell at Towton Field, is said to he "buried under a blue marble slab in the choir. There are several monuments, one bearing a female figure in the costume of the seventeenth century.
St. Helen, St. Helen's Square. This church has a handsome octagonal lantern tower, and a curious Norman font.
St. John, North Street, chiefly Perpendicular, and restored in 1850.
St. Margarets, in "Walmgate, is celebrated for its fine Norman porch, comprising four united circular arches, all curiously sculptured with figures, chiefly hieroglyphical. Drake is of opinion that this porch was brought from the dissolved hospital of Nicholas, without the neighbouring bar.
St. Martin-cum-Gregory, Micklegate, the tower of which is at the west end.
St. Martin-le-Grand, Coney Street, with some valuable stained glass, and an elaborate clock abutting at the east end.
St. Mary, the Elder, Bishophill, in the Early English and Decorated styles, with a good east window. The brick tower was built in 1659.
St. Mary, the Younger, Bishophill, has a square tower in the Saxon style. It is believed by some to be genuine Saxon work ; but others are of opinion that it was reconstructed in later times.
St. Mary, Castlegate, is a pleasing structure of considerable antiquity. It has a fine spire, 154 feet high, being the highest in the city.
St. Maurice, Monkgate, a modern structure in the Decorated style, on the site of an ancient Perpendicular one.
St. Michael, Spurriergate, ancient, but mostly rebuilt. It has some good stained glass. The curfew bell is tolled in this church tower every evening at eight.
St. Michael-le-Belfrey, on the south-west side of the Minster yard, is the largest and most elegant church in the city. It derives its name from its contiguity to the bell towers of the cathedral It was founded in 1066, but rebuilt in 1535, and is in the late Perpendicular style. Thomas Gent, printer, and author of numerous works connected with the topography and history of Yorkshire, is interred in this church.
St. Olave, Marygate, an ancient foundation, with some old22
tore castle-clifford's tower.
stained glass. Etty, the royal academician, is interred in the churchyard.
St. Paul, Holgate Lane, a new church, erected by subscription.
St. Sampson, Church Street, rebuilt, except its tower, which is interesting, old, and shattered.
St. Saviour, a commodious edifice, mostly rebuilt.
St. Thomas, the Groves, a new church, of no interest.
There are numerous Dissenting Chapels, none of them, however, calling for mention, except the Roman Catholic Church of St. Wilfrid, opened by Cardinal Wiseman in 1864.
York Castle, now become a gaol for debtors and malefactors, was once a noble and important fortress. Its walls inclose an area of four acres, and the castle-yard will contain 40,000 persons. As may be seen from our Bketch of the history of the city, York Castle frequently was the scene of important events in former times. A fortress existed here long before the Conquest— indeed, the Britons seem to have had a fortified mound here before the Roman invasion. The fortress, of which some parts still remain, was built by William the Conqueror in 1068. It is probable that he found a Roman fortification on the spot, and replaced it with one more suited to his purpose. The only portion of the old castle of any consequence now remaining, is Clifford's Tower.
Clifford's Tower, so called from one of the first governors, is situated on a high artificial mound, and forms a picturesque and prominent object. It was the keep or donjon of the castle, and, with the rest of the fortification, seems to have been of great strength. In 1190 this tower was the scene of the self-immola-tion of upwards of 1000 Jews, who, in order to disappoint a bloodthirsty mob of citizens, destroyed themselves and their property by setting fire to the tower. When York surrendered to the Parliamentarians in 1644, the city was dismantled of all its garrisons except that of Clifford's Tower. In 1684, either by accident or design, the tower took fire, and the powder magazine blew up, reducing it to a mere shell, in which condition it has remained ever since. A strong wall surrounds the mound, to preserve so interesting a relic from further decay, and it was incorporated with the Castle domain in 1825.
The walls of the tower are from 9 to 10 feet thick. Its plan consists of four segments of circles joined, the largest diameter being 64 feet, and the shortest 45. The entrance isYORK CASTLE—THE PRISON.
23
through a square building, which was added to strengthen it in 1642. Over the entrance are the Koyal Arms, and those of the Cliffords. The interior of the tower is picturesquely clad with ivy and other creepers. In the centre of the area grows a large walnut tree, said to have been planted by George Fox, the founder of the Society of Friends, who was once imprisoned here. The summit of the tower may be reached by a staircase, and an extensive view obtained of the surrounding country.
Clifford's tower.
The other parts of the old castle were turned into a county prison shortly after they ceased to be occupied by a garrison. Falling into decay, they were pulled down in 1708, and the Old Buildings, now used as the Debtors' Prison, erected in. their place. York, Castle also includes the County Assize Courts, erected in 1777, and the Felons' Prison, erected in 1826. A magistrate's order is necessary for admission to view the prison. It will be found worth a visit. The person in charge conducts the visitor through the various ranges of courts and cells. Everything seems to be planned in the best manner for order and24
york-public buildings.
security. In one place may be seen the convicts, in their particoloured. uniform, at work upon matting, etc.; in another, the debtors taking air and exercise in their open court. The different cells, from that of the ordinary culprit to that of the criminal condemned to death, are shewn ; and, last of all, there is the ghastly collection of casts of the heads of noted murderers and other criminals who have been executed at York, and of weapons of all kinds with which the deeds of blood were committed. As a prison, York Castle has various interesting memories. In 1604, Walter Calverley, of Calverley Hall, the hero of the '' Yorkshire Tragedy," was tried and executed within its walls. Here, in 1746, many unfortunate Jacobites were tried, and expiated with their lives their devotion to Prince Charlie. Here, too, in 1759, Eugene Aram, the murderer, whose name and story have been rendered immortal in the pages of romance and poetry, made his wonderful defence, which, though it could not save him from justice, elevated him above the vulgar crowd of criminals. Howard the philanthropist visited York Castle in 1787, and declared, after an examination of it, that it was the best regulated prison he had seen. Smollett .has left a similar testimony in "Humphrey Clinker." In 1795 and 1796 James Montgomery the poet was confined here for newspaper articles which the government of the day regarded as libels. Here he composed his " Prison Amusements."
There are various other Public Buildings deserving of notice in a survey of the city of York.
The Guildhall was erected in 1446 in connection with the Guild of St. Christopher, afterwards strengthened by the accession of the Guild of St. George. It was granted to the municipal authorities of the city on the Dissolution of the religious houses. The Hall is a grand old room, 96 feet long, 43 broad, and 29^ high. It is in the Perpendicular style, and is divided into a nave and aisles by two rows of octagonal oak pillars on stone bases, their capitals grotesquely carved. Most of the windows are filled with stained glass. The subjects are chiefly chosen from local history. The window commemorating the great banquet given to the late Prince Consort, in 1850, is well worth careful inspection. The room contains a large painting by Richard Manders, of " Paul before Agrippa," a large bell captured at the Btorming of Rangoon, and one or two other objects of interest.york-the city walls and bars.
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The Mansion House, situated in front of the Guildhall, was erected in 1725, after a design by the Earl of Burlington. It contains portraits of William III., George II., George III. when Prince of Wales, the Marquis of Rockingham, and other historical personages.
The Assembly Rooms, in Blake Street, were erected in 1730, also from a design of Lord Burlington's. The grand room of this building is 112 feet by 40, and 40 high. Connected with it is the Festival Concert Room, which will seat 1700 persons.
There are in York numerous hospitals and charities, schools, a theatre erected by Tate Wilkinson in 1765, the frontage of which has recently been rebuilt in almost ecclesiastical style.
The City Walls and Bars.—The city walls existed before the time of Henry III., but the exact date of their foundation is unknown. They suffered much in the siege of 1644, but were repaired between twenty and thirty years after. In 1831, having fallen into great decay, their repair was commenced by public subscription, and carried on with considerable vigour. Large portions of these walls still remain in excellent preservation. The most complete and important part of the walls is that which lies to the west of the Ouse. It completely encompasses the city on this side, and forms a promenade, from which fine views of the Minster, Clifford's Tower, and other prominent buildings, may be obtained.
Micklegate Bar is situated midway in this portion of the wall This gateway is of great antiquity, and has even been attributed by Drake and Lord Burlington to the Roinans—a point, however, on which they have been conclusively shewn to be mistaken. It seems to be generally agreed now that it is a Norman work. Previous to the destruction of its barbican, or outwork, the appearance of this bar must have been still more imposing than it is at present. It consists of a square tower built over a circular arch, with embattled turrets at the angles, each turret having a stone figure in a menacing attitude on the top. Above the gateway are the arms of Sir John Lister Kaye, Lord Mayor of York in 1737, with the inscription beneath, " Renovata a. d. mdccxxvii." Higher up are the royal arms (old France and England, quarterly), between those of the city of York. Over each shield there is a small Gothic canopy. On the inner side of the bar are the royal arms again. It was on this gate that the heads of persons regarded as traitors were formerly exposed. Here the head of Richard Plantagenet was placed in 1460, along26
YORK-THE CITY WALLS AND BARS.
with those of other Yorkists, to he replaced the following year by the heads of the Earls of Devonshire and Wiltshire, and other leading men of the Lancastrian party. The last occasion on which human heads were exposed on this gate was in 1746, after the Jacobite rebellion.
MICKXEGATE BAR.
The oldest portion of the wall is that extending from Walmr gate Bar easterly to the Red Tower, a curious old brick building, not much noticed. The wall is built on a series of rude and irregular arches, evidently of very great antiquity. On the portion of the wall extending westward from Waliugate Bar there is an agreeable public promenade.
Outside Micklegate Bar, on the left, is the Nunnery, a convent of nuns of the order of St. Ursula. This establishment is understood to be in a prosperous condition.
The Race Course is at Knavesmire, about a mile from York by the same road. It is an open plain, and is well adapted for the purpose. The Grand Stand was erected by subscription in 1754. The races take place in April and August, and are always largely and fashionably attended.york—the city bass—railway lines.
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Walmgate Bar is the only one which retains its barbican, and it is therefore a very interesting relic of antiquity. Walmgate is supposed to be a corruption from Watlingate ; which is very probable, as the Watling Street of the Romans here entered. It is much in the same style as Micklegate and the other two bars, being square, with embattled turrets. The old door, wickets, and portcullis still remain. The arms are those of Henry Y.
Monk Bab, so called after General Monk, is pronounced by Mr. Britton " the most perfect specimen of this sort of architecture in the kingdom." It is loftier than any of the other bars. The interior of it consists of two storeys of vaulted chambers, formerly used as prisons for freemen of the city. The portcullis is still in existence. The turrets are ornamented with small figures in the attitude of throwing down stones.
Bootham Bar, the entrance from the north, is similar in form to the other bars. Its barbican, the most perfect in York, was taken down in 1831, but the bar remains.
Bridges.—Formerly there was only one bridge across the Ouse connecting Micklegate with the main part of the city. Two have been added—Lendal Bridge, a handsome single arched structure, forming a direct communication between the New Station and the Cathedral ; and Skeldergate Bridge, near the Castle. The latter is partly a drawbridge, worked by hydraulic pressure. There are five bridges over the Foss.
VICINITY OF YORK.
Railway Communication—Bishopthorpe—Bolton Percy to Cawood—Church Fenton—Saxton—Towton Heath—Marston Moor.
The tourist will find York a very convenient centre from which to make excursions, especially in the central part of the county. The different branches of the North-Eastern Railway, which diverge in all directions from the large and handsome central station, afford the tourist ready and rapid access to a vast number of places in this county which are most deserving of a visit. Northward, Thirsk is distant 22% miles, and Northallerton 30£, in a direct line—branches striking off to Boroughbridge, 22 ; Leyburn, 48 ; Richmond, 48§. Westward, Knaresborough is distant 16f miles, and Harrogate 20. Southward, Doncaster is 32 miles distant, on the main line ; and the other towns of the south are readily accessible, though the route is not direct—28 vicinity of york-bishopthorpe-bolton percy.
Leeds being distant 25^ miles ; Wakefield, 27 ; and Sheffield, 46. To the north-east, there is direct communication "with Mal-ton, 21| miles ; Whitby, 56^ ; and Scarborough, 43f. Eastward, there is a direct communication with Market Weighton, 23 miles (now extended to Hull, m.), and a circuitous communication, through Selbv (14 miles), with Hull, 45 miles, and the district of Holderness.
But in this place we merely notice such places of interest as are to be found in the more immediately surrounding district.
Bibhopthoei-e, the residence of the archbishop of York, is pleasantly situated on the Ouse, about three miles from York. The pedestrian may reach it by an agreeable walk along the bank of the river, leaving the city by Skeldergate. The village presents nothing worthy of mention, the church having been erected so recently as 1768.
The palace was built by Archbishop Walter de Grey, who died in 1255, but has been altered and repaired by many succeeding archbishops. As it now stands, it is chiefly the work of Archbishop Drummond, who died in 1766, and is buried in the church. In front of the palace is a gateway in the Pointed style, ornamented with the arms of the see, and surmounted by a crocketed turret. The front of the mansion is in the same style, there being a handsome canopy over the entrance. The palace contains a number of fine apartments, and is adorned with some good paintings, engravings, and other works of art. Among the paintings may be mentioned a large one, by West, of George III., with Lord Harcourt and a yeoman of the guard in waiting ; George I., by Sir Joshua Reynolds ; Archbishop Markham, by the same painter ; a portrait of the late Archbishop Harcourt, by W. Owen, RA.; and portraits of former archbishops. The drawing room, library, and dining-room are fine apartments; and their windows afford picturesque views. The chapel, which adjoins the dining-room, is small but interesting. The floor is of black and white marble ; the windows are filled with stained glass—the east one containing the arms of the archbishops, from the Reformation to the Revolution; and the pulpit" exhibits curious antique carving.
The pleasure-grounds are limited in extent, but tastefully laid out. Visitors are admitted to view the principal apartments and the grounds of the palace.vicinity or york-bolton percy to cawood.
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Bolton Percy, distant from York 7| miles by rail, possesses a fine Church, said to be the largest and best built in the ainsty of York. It was erected in 1423 by Thomas Parker, rector of the paiish, who died the same year. The edifice, which is in the perpendicular style, consists of nave and aisles, a chancel, and a chapel on the north side, with a handsome tower, finished with a battlement and pinnacles, at the west end. The architectural details of the exterior will present various points worthy of notice. The interior, too, is very interesting. The aisles are divided from the nave by four pointed arches, resting on clustered columns. On the south side of the chancel there are three beautiful stalls, surmounted by crocketed canopies, exquisitely carved. Adjoining is a niche, with canopy and pointed arch. A piscina in its lower part is regarded as among the most perfect and elegant in the county. The windows contain figures of saints and bishops, in stained glass of great beauty and antiquity. At the east end of the south aisle there is a handsome painted window, representing scenes chiefly from the Passion. It was erected in 1860, in remembrance of Sir William Mordaunt Milner, by his daughters.
There are several monuments, the only one of general interest being that to the memory of Lord Fairfax, the celebrated Parliamentary general
The vicarage adjoins the church, and is charmingly situated The whole aspect of the hamlet is very picturesque.
A walk of four miles from Bolton Percy will bring the tourist to Cawood ; the road will be readily pointed out by the country people. Two miles from Bolton Percy he will reach a ferry over the Wharfe, near Acaster Selby, an imposing brick mansion, finely situated. A little to the right of the bridle road, which lies through a pleasant green lane, is the church of Ryther, an old building, disfigured by a brick tower and porch. It consists of nave, south aisle, and chancel, the latter an addition of recent date. There is in the interior an old monument, the effigy in armour, of a member of the Ryther family. It was mutilated a good many years ago, in being removed by parties who were in search of a sum of money, said to have been concealed under it. The hamlet of Ryther is straggling and uninteresting. There is nothing else calling for the traveller's attention till he reaches Cawood.
From Bolton Percy to Tadcaster the distance is under four miles.30
vicinity of york-towton-marston moor.
Church Fenton is near the station of that name, 10£ miles from York. By the line that here branches off to Harrogate many places of interest may be visited. If the tourist has time to pause here, he will find the Church worth a visit. It is a fine old cruciform building, in various styles. There is some genuine Norman work in it.
Two miles from Church Fenton is the village of Saiton, where there is an old camp, probably Roman. In the church and churchyard of Saxton are interred some of the noblemen and gentlemen who fell on Towton field.
Towton Heath, the scene of the bloodiest battle in the wars of the Roses, lies between the villages of Saxton and Towton, and is about 3 miles from Church Fenton or Tadcaster. It is not very easy to sett! e the positions of the opposing armies ; but, if the tourist is particularly desirous of information on the spot, he may readily find a rustic cicerone to expound every particular. The battle was fought on Palm Sunday (March 29), 1461. The slaughter was fearful, Edward IV. having issued orders that no quarter should be given. Between 30,000 and 40,000 Englishmen are said to have fallen in this insane contest. Some of the noblest of the slain were interred in Saxton church and churchyard ; but the thousands of the undistinguished brave sleep where they fell, and the red and white roses which bloom on the field of their last strife form their touching and appropriate memorial Marston Moor is within a mile of Marston station, 6J miles from York (and 10J from Knaresborough). .The battle which has rendered this place famous was fought on the 2d of .July 1644. The Parliamentary army was drawn up on the side of the rising ground called Marston Field, their front extending from Marston to Tockwith. The Royal aimy occupied the moot below.
-" On Marston Heath
Met, front to front, the ranks of death; Flourished the trumpets fierce, and now Fired was each eye, and flushed each brow; On either side loud clamours ring, ' God and the Cause 1'—' God and the King 1' Right English all, they rushed to blows, With nought to win, and all to lose."
Lord Fairfax commanded the Parliamentarians, Sir Thomas Fairfax being on his right wing, and the Earl of Manchester and Oliver Cromwell on his left. The king's generals were—vicinity of york-long marston.
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Prince Rupert, the Marquis of Newcastle, General Porter, Lord Goring, and Sir Charles Lucas. Prince Rupert was successful in. his attack on the right wing of the Parliamentary army ; but, with his usual impetuosity, he went too far in pursuit of his scattered foes, and, on returning to the field, found he was too late to prevent the rout of the Royal army. The Royalists fell back upon York, which was not long in yielding to the Parliamentarians. This battle was fatal to the cause of Charles I. Upwards of 4000 bodies were buried on the field of battle. The graves may yet be seen ; and interesting remnants of the strife are occasionally turned up by the plough.
The church of Long Marston has some circular Norman arches preserved in combination with architecture of a more recent time.
A walk of five or six miles from Long Marston will bring the tourist to Wetherby, which is on the Church Fenton and Harrogate Railway, 21£ miles from York.
The tourist should not fail to visit the beautiful Early English Church of Skelton ; St. Mary's Priory Church, also Early English, Nun Monkton ; Red House, the seat of the Royalist Colonel, Sir Henry Slingsby, who was beheaded on Tower Hill, in 1658 ; and Heslington Hall, long the residence of the Yarburgh family. The Hall is an Elizabethan edifice, beautifully situated at the entrance of Heslington village, and contains many valuable and interesting paintings. Near Holgate, about a mile and a-half from York, are three curious mounds known as Severus' Hills, and supposed to have been the scene of the funeral obsequies of that emperor. Here, it is said, his body was reduced to ashes and inurned before it was conveyed to Rome. In a large house on the south side of this village lived and died the celebrated Lindley Murray. A native of Pennsylvania, of independent fortune and delicate constitution, he came to England in 1784, and devoted his time, to the production of literary compositions and his riches to charitable and benevolent purposes. He died in 1826.
The municipal government of York consists of the Lord Mayor, 12 aldermen, and 36 councillors, with recorder, sheriff, and town-clerk.32
Hours of Admission to the various Plages of Interest in York.
Places.	Admission.
The Minster.—Interior— Chapter House— Crypt Minster Library. Yorkshire Blind School Museum Gardens.—Museum—St. Mary's—Abbey — Hospitium, and Multangular Tower. Castle. —Clifford's Tower —Prison—Law Courts.	Daily, Mornings, 9 to 10, then 11 to 4. The interior is not shown during the services. In summer it is shown once after Evening Prayers. Matins, 10 to 11 (on Sundays, to 1); Evensong, (on Sundays, 4).* Fees, 6d. for interior. „ 6d. for ascent to top of Central Tower (exterior). Free to Visitors, Monday and "Wednesday, 11 a.m. to 1 p.m. Saturday, 2 to 4 p.m. Daily. Concert every Thursday at 2.30. Admission 6d. Daily, 10 to 6, Is. Saturday afternoon, Id. From Sept. 22 till March 20, close two hours earlier. Daily, 9 to 4. Prison not shown during Prayers, 10 to 11, or dinner hour, 12 to 1, nor on Thursdays, 10 to 1, A county Magistrate's order necessary for admission.
* There is also a service in the nave at 6.45 p.m. in winter.33
AIREDALE
Stations for exploring Upper Airedale and Craven—Settle, and its Neighbourhood —Malham village—Goredole Scar and Malham Cove—Description of the Valley of the Aire.
The river Aire issues in a full stream from the foot of Ma.lha.tri Cove. Its waters, long supposed to be derived from Malham Tarn, a lonely but beautiful lake on tlie high ground to the north, have been conclusively ascertained to owe their origin to a small mountain stream in the direction of Cowside. The water of the stream which leaves Malham Tarn, and is swallowed up in a hole in the limestone rock, reappears half way between Malham and Kirkby.* The course of the Aire is smooth and tranquil throughout. Though not possessing so much diversity as that of some other Yorkshire dales, the scenery through which the river passes is both interesting and varied.
The upper part of Airedale is comprehended in Cbaven, an extensive district embracing the south-western hills, and the moors and dales among them. The tourist who wishes to explore the high lands whence the Ribble, Aire, and Wharfe take their rise, will find Settle a convenient station. Should he, however, merely wish to examine the head of Airedale, he may take Skipton for his head-quarters, whence the railway will bring him, at Bell Busk station, to between three and four miles from Malham Cove and Goredale.
Settle. — Hotel: The Golden Lion. — (From Skipton 15 miles ; Leeds, ; Lancaster, 24.)—This town, as has already been remarked, is a convenient station for the exploration of Upper Airedale, and Craven generally. It is picturesquely situated at the foot of a lofty limestone rock, called Castelbergh. This cliff, which towers above the town to the height of about 300 feet, commands a fine prospect. There are several thread manufactories in the town, giving em-
* This fact was ascertained by emptying bags of chaff Into the stream. The chaff reappeared at the place referred to. The true origin of the Aire was discovered in the same way.
D34
AIREDALE-NEIGHBOURHOOD OP SETTLE.
ployment to a considerable number of the inhabitants. The town also derives some importance from the fairs for the sale of cattle, sheep, and horses, which are held several times a-year. The charter for a market and fair was granted in the time of Henry IIL The population is 2200.
The parish church is at Giggleswick; but about twenty years ago there was a new district Church erected in the town, in the early English style, and named the Church of the Holy Ascension. The only other public building calling for mention is the Town Hall, which was erected in 1836. The shambles stand in the market-place, with a row of cottages over them.
Giggleswick, a mile from Settle, has a large, uniform, and handsome Church, dedicated to St. Alkald, exactly in the style of the other churches of Craven, which are known to have been built in the times of Henry Vn. and YIH. It consists of nave, chancel, transept, porch, and tower. In the interior there are several unimportant brasses. There is in this village a large Grammar School, founded by Edward VI., and one of the richest foundations of this sort in the north of England. The father of the celebrated Dr. Paley was for fifty years master of this institution, and died in 1799, aged 88. Paley was educated here. By the roadside, a little beyond the hamlet, there is an ebbing and flowing well, celebrated by Drayton (in his " Polyolbion,"—song xxviii.) and described by other writers. Drayton says this spring ebbs and flows eight times a-day ; other writers say three or four times ; but the tourist will sometimes, to his disappointment and diBgust, find that it does not ebb and flow even once within any reasonable time. The truth is, that the spring is affected by the weather ; and it is found that in very dry and in very wet weather, it ceases to ebb and flow. It has, at certain times, been observed to rise and fall eight or ten times in an hour ; while at others it has been watched for hours to no effect. Picturesque cliffs tower over the road leading past this well in the direction of Clapham and Ingleton.
A mountain ramble of about two miles, eastward, to Hatter' mire, will afford a treat to any lover of natural scenery. Hatter-mire is an amphitheatre of lofty precipices of mountain limestone, so rent and fissured as to resemble basaltic columns. A cave in the face of one of the crags has been known to the Romans, some of their implements having been discovered in it. The botanist will find this neighbourhood fruitful in plants j andairedale-gkdredale scab.
35
the entomologist mil, towards autumn, obtain some rare moths and butterflies in and about the Hattermire Cave.
Another pleasant "walk may be taken, northward, by the Horton road, to the pretty village of Stainforth, in the neighbourhood of which there are two fine cascades.
The village of Clapham, 6 miles distant, may be reached either by road or rail; and thence the tourist may visit Ingle-borough Cave and ascend to the summit of the mountain (See Ingleborough).
A mountain road (that by which Hattermire Scars, already mentioned, are reached), six miles in length, leads from Settle to Malham, and presents many fine hill and moorland views.
Matyftam.—Inns: Buck Inn, and Lister Arms. From Bell Busk station, about four miles ; from Settle, six.—The village of Malham is picturesque ; but it possesses no buildings of importance. The Church, dating from the time of Henry VII., is at Kirkby Malhamdale, where there is also an inn. It is passed on the way from the railway, a mile from the village. Most of the columns have on their west side an elegant niche and tabernacle, that once contained the figure of a saint. These images were doubtless so placed to heighten the devotional feelings of the people when they turned their faces towards the altar.
The great attractions of Malham are the Cove and Goredale Scar, which are every year visited by great numbers of tourists.
Goredale Scab should be visited before Malham Cove. It is about a mile from the village. On the way, just before coming to the bridge over the stream which descends the Scar, the tourist may turn in at a gate on his right, to take a look at a cavern called Jeannot's Cave, and the pretty little cascade near it. Goredale Scar has justly been pronounced one of the grandest rock scenes in the north of England. The cliffs, which rise on either side to a height of 300 feet, overhang their base to an extraordinary extent. That to the right is said to project nearly 60 feet. The water that pours down this remarkable chasm originally fell over the top of the precipice; but in 1730, when it was swollen during a severe thunderstoam, it burst its way through the rock forming the large natural arch through which it now falls. The tourist can clamber up to the high ground above by steps worn in the rock, on the left side of the Scar. Th.e ascent is pretty stiff, but may be accomplished without danger. From the top, a faintly marked track36
airedale-mat,ham cove.
which lies for some time parallel to the stream, will conduct to the verge of Malham Cove. On the way, the limestone rock will be observed cropping up above the turf in many places, like a regular causeway.
Malham Cove.—The view from the summit of the Cove on a clear day is magnificent; and, in addition, a sensation of the sublime may be obtained by getting upon one of the shelves that run round the top, and taking a peep over the brink. The descent to the bottom may be easily accomplished on the right side of the Cove. No proper idea can be obtained of this magnificent scene unless it has been viewed from below. The limestone cliff rises to a sheer height of 285 feet, and forms the half of an amphitheatre of much grandeur. Out at the foot of the cliff gushes the Aire, by an opening just wide enough to give a passage to its waters. Malham Cove is the most striking part of a long line of elevated limestone cliff, called the Craven Fault, commencing near Kirkby Lonsdale, and extending to Tbresh-field, on the border of Wharfedale. It has thus its interest for the geologist as well as for the non-scientific lover of nature.
The winding valley, about 35 miles in length, through which the Aire flows down to Leeds, is in few places more than a mile in breadth. The stream passes many spots which the tourist will be glad to visit. There is a good deal of quiet beauty in Malhamdale, in which the stream flows through pleasant green pastures, with as yet unsullied waters. Passing Oargrave, where a Roman villa was discovered, it presently reaches Skipton, the thriving and interesting capital of Craven (See Skipton). Here the pure waters of the Aire begin, to be defiled; but the pollution becomes greater when, after flowing ten or twelve miles farther, the river reaches Keighley (See Keighley). Whitaker, whose love for nature was as intense as his devotion to the relics of antiquity, wrote thus in the beginning of the present century, deploring the effect of the growth of factories and crowded towns in destroying the rural seclusion and beauty of Airedale:—"Before the introduction of manufactories, the parish of Keighley did not want its retired glens and well-wooded hills ; but taste and virtue fly together from dirt and crowded population. The clear mountain torrent now is defiled, its scaly inhabitants suffocated by filth, its murmurs lost in the din of machinery, and the native music of its overhanging groves exchanged for oaths and curses." This language isairedale.
37
exaggerated ; for even now, in spite of the manufactories, there is not a little picturesqueness in the scenery in the neighbourhood of Keighley; and the population, though not better than a similar class elsewhere, are not so bad as Whitaker seems to have thought them. Professor Phillips takes a more genial and just view of the change which has passed over the lower portion of Airedale. Referring to Kirkstall Abbey, he says—" Since the day when Henry de Lacy brought the Cistercians to this sweet retreat (1152), how changed are the scenes which the river looks upon ! Then, from the high rocks of Malham, and the pastures of Craven, to Loidis in Elinete, the deer, wild boar, and white bull, were wandering in unfrequented woods, or wading in untainted waters, or roaming over boundless heaths. Now, hundreds of thousands of men of many races have extirpated the wood, dyed the waters with tints derived from other lands, turned the heaths into fertile fields, and filled the valley with mills and looms, water-wheels and engine chimneys. Yet is not all the beauty of Airedale lost; nor should the thoughtful mind, which now regards the busy stream of the Aire, lament the change. The quiet spinner is happier than the rude and violent hunter; the spirit of true religion fills these populous villages as well as once it filled those cloistered walls; the woods are gone, and in their place the iron road ; but that road conducts the intelligent lover of beauty to other hills and dales where art has had no contest with nature, and, by enabling him to compare one region with another, corrects his judgment, heightens his enjoyment, and deepens his sympathy with man."
The tourist who halts at Keighley may visit Haworth, the birth-place of the Brontes (See Haworth), or he may ascend the height of Eombald's Moor, on the north side of the Aire, whence fine views of Airedale and Wharfedale may be obtained. There are on this moor some of those stones of the fantastic forms usually ascribed to the Druids. The mountain road over this height will conduct the pedestrian to Tlkley and Ben Rhydding. On the way may be observed a Saxon cross a little to the left of the path.
Passing downwards from Keighley, the valley presents a succession of busy towns, off-shoots of Leeds and Bradford— Bingley, with some pleasantly wooded scenery in its neighbourhood ; Saltaire, with its immense factory and well planned streets, not yet twenty years old {See Vicinity of Bradford),38
aldborough—boroughbridge.
and Shipley, an irregular and uninteresting town, carrying on manufactures of its own, and affording house accommodation to many of the hands of Saltaire. The vale becomes more and more thickly peopled, and the atmosphere more smoky, as the river flows onwards. None of the small towns, each a centre of busy industry, need detain us from passing down to the splendid old Abbey of Kirkstall (See Kjrkstall Abbey). Three miles farther down, the river reaches Leeds, the most important town in Yorkshire in point of population and manufactures (See Leeds). Below Leeds, the river flows through fertile meadows, the higher ground beyond which is adorned with several handsome residences, the chief of which is Temple Newsam, containing a collection of valuable pictures, and surrounded by a beautifully wooded park. At Castleford (Legeolium) the fifth Iter of Antoninus crossed the Aire, which is here joined by the Calder. The stream now enters a district of the magnesian limestone ; and lime-kilns and their smoke become a prominent feature of the scene, as far as Knottingley, with its rows of tall poplars, and its neat stone bridge crossing the stream- From Knottingley, the Aire flows through low lands by Snaith, Kawcliff, and Annin, and joins the Ouse a little above Howden.
ALDBOROUGH AND BOROUGHBRIDGE.
Inns—Aldborough, Aldborough Arms. Boronglibridge, Crown, Greyhound.
Boroughbridge from Thirsk, 12J miles; Harrogate, 7; Ripon, 6 ; York, 23.
Boroughbridge, the railway station for Aldborough, was a place of considerable importance in the old coaching days, and is still of some note on account of its fairs, five of which are held in the course of the year. In the market-place stands a handsome fluted column which, from its style, probably dates from the beginning of the fourteenth century. The church is modern and handsome, being a cut stone structure in the Decorated style.
A battle was fought here, in 1321, between Edward II. and his rebellious barons under Thomas, Earl of Lancaster, in which the latter were completely defeated. The Earl of Lancaster and several noblemen of his party were made prisoners, and beheaded a few days afterwards at Pontefract.
The Devils Arrows, three immense masses of stone whichAliDBOROUGH, THE ROMAN ISURIUM.
39
have given rise to much speculation among antiquarians, are about half a mile distant to the south-west. The northernmost stone is, according to Gough, 16£ feet high ; the middle one, 2l£, and the southernmost, 22£. The weight of the first of these obelisks is estimated at 36 tons ; that of the other two at 39 tons each. We quote a brief account of the opinions that have been entertained regarding these interesting monuments, which are probably older than Isurium itself:—" The great monoliths of Boroughbridge have caught the attention of all our topographers, and speculation has not been idle as to their history and uses. The stones, which have doubtless been extracted from the great rocks of Brimham or Plumpton, have been conjectured to be of artificial composition ; the furrows on the sides, which are merely the effects of 2000 years of rain, have been supposed to be the flutings of columns, fitted to imaginary capitals or busts. They have been called marks for four roacls, met® of a chariot race, trophies of victory, and we might add other such fancies, if it were proper to delay without necessity our pleasant journey on the banks of the "Ore." * The town at one time sent two members to Parliament, but was disfranchised in 1832.
Axdborough, the Isurium of the Romans, is half a mile to the eastward of Boroughbridge. This is a place of vast interest to the antiquarian. Here he finds more than is presented by the Roman stations-in other parts of the county. The remains which have been discovered are such, both in their character and abundance, as to indicate that Isurium was a Roman city, and that those who resided in it called into requisition the arts and elegancies of their own civilization in the barbarous country in which they had settled.
There can be no doubt that Isurium was a place of importance long before the invasion of the Romans. Probably it was the earliest city of the Brigantes, by whom it seems to have b6en called Isure,+ its later name being a latinized form of the appellation. Isurium was the capital of North Britain before, and for some time after, the Roman conquest. This probably was the scene of the principal events mentioned by Tacitus regarding the Brigantes. Here probably would be the rude court of
* " Rivera, Mountains, and Sea Coast of Yorkshire," p. 65.
t It has been suggested that this word is derived " from a contraction of Isis, an idol worshiped by the early migrators into Britain, and Ure, which was held sacred to it."40
ALDBOROUGH, THE ROMAN ISURIUM.
Cartismandua, the betrayer of Caractacua. After Agricola at length completed the conquest of the Brigantes, he seems to have made his head-quarters here for a time, till at length the site of Eboracum was taken as more suitable for a fortified station for his troops. During the Roman occupation of Britain, however, Isurium seems to have been the abode of luxury and civilization ; and, if inferior to Eboracum in dignity and warlike strength, it may have been much before that city in the polished arts and comforts of life. Under the Saxons the city received the name of Eald-burgh, or Aldburgh, from its antiquity and importance. In 766 it was sacked and burned by the Danes. This calamity, and the subsequent removal of the bridge across the Ure from this place to Boroughbridge, made the ruin of Aldborough complete. The place still continued, indeed, to possess some importance from the memory of its past greatness : for, in 1542, it was invested with the dignity of representation in Parliament. From that date till the passing of the Reform Bill, when it was disfranchised, the borough continued to return two members.
This Roman city has engaged the attention of antiquarians from the time of Leland downwards, but the subject is one which seems to be not yet exhausted, as many most important discoveries have been made within the last twenty years. The city is mentioned by Ptolemy in his " Geography," and by Antoninus in his " Itinerary," and its site has been most conclusively identified with that of Aldborough, The tourist who wishes a fuller account of Isurium than it is possible to give in these pages, may consult the work of Mr. H. Ecroyd Smith,* which contains engravings of many of the most important remains which have been discovered here.
That Isurium was a fortified place, is evident from the remains of a rampart. Drake is of opinion that the city was square ; but subsequent researches have shewn that it was a long parallelogram, like that of York, but without corner towers. Mr. Smith is of opinion that the angles of the parallelogram were cut off. Aldborough Church stands almost exactly in the centre of the ancient city ; Aldborough Hall occupies the site of the east gate ; and Aldborough Manor that of the west gate. The inclosed area is about 60 acres, the walls being about 1940 feet by
* "Reliquiae Isurianae: the Remains of the Roman Isurium. By Henry Ecroyd Smith." London, 1852.ALDBOROUGH, THE BOMAN ISURIUM.
41
1320. A Roman bridge of wood crossed the Ure at Isurium ; and many piles of it existed, and were used by the fishermen for drying their nets, as lately as the beginning of last century. The antiquarian can yet trace the walls of Isurium with tolerable exactness. Gough says they have been four yards thick, and founded on large pebbles laid in a bed of blue clay. Borough-hill, a small hillock formerly adjoining the church, but levelled about seventy years ago, was perhaps the site of the citadel.
In the excavation of the site of this ancient city, Roman remains of the most interesting and valuable description have been discovered in remarkable abundance. These are preserved here for the inspection of visitors, and cannot fail to afford a rich treat to those who take an interest in antiquities. Of sculpture, the principal specimen is a statue of Mercury, built into the wall of the church. Foundations of buildings, bases of columns, pavements, baths, wall-paintings, and other relics of Roman habitations, serve sufficiently to shew that the residence of the conquerors in this place was more that of settled colonists than of warriors in a temporary camp. Mosaic floors have been found in many places ; one tesselated pavement, which was discovered in 1832, being particularly deserving of notice, on account of the exquisite beauty both of its design and execution. Numerous urns and sarcophagi have been discovered here. One of the latter, which Mr. Smith has engraved in his work already alluded to, is very curious. It is constructed of the fine bright red and well-tempered clay of which the Samian ware of the Romans .is composed, and is of the form of the sole of a shoe. Outwardly, it is 7 feet 2 inches long, and 2 J feet broad ; inwardly, 6 feet long, and broad. It contained oak ashes, with fragments of bones, and a few very perfect teeth. In 1846, the remains of a basilica (judgment-hall or senate-house) were discovered. A plan of this building, as it is supposed from these remains to have existed, and some speculations regarding it, will be found in Mr. Smith's book.
In addition to these larger and more important remains, there have been found in this " British Pompeii," great numbers of articles of pottery, coins, ornaments in jet, glass, gold, silver, and brass, bronze lamps, etc., to which there is not room to refer particularly. Some ancient British remains have also been found here—among them a very rudely-sculptured figure 18 inches high, supposed to be an idol of the early Britons.42
aidborough—myton.
The village is itself of little interest. The Church, which, ia dedicated to St. Andrew, is supposed to have been constructed out of the ruins of Isurium. It consists of nave, aisles, chancel, and tower, and is partly decorated and partly perpendicular. The nave is divided from the aisles by pointed arches rising from octagonal columns. The east window is filled with modern painted glass, the chief figures representing our Lord and the four Evangelists. Against the north wall stands an old monumental brass, formerly inlaid in a stone in the floor. It represents a warrior in armour, and is supposed from the style of the accoutrements, as well as from the heraldic devices and a scroll bearing the name " Wills de Aldeburgh," to have been placed here in memory of Sir William de Aldeburgh, who was summoned to Parliament as a baron in 1377. The figure of Mercury, already referred to, is built into the outside of the vestry wall. On a gravestone in the churchyard there is the sculpture in relief of a female in the attitude of prayer. This gravestone is early decorated, and not Saxon, as some antiquarians have supposed.
About three miles eastward from Aldborough is the small hamlet of Myton, the scene of the " White Battle," in 1319. Thomas Randolph, Earl of Murray, with an army of Scots, had made an incursion into England, wasting the country with, fire and sword to the very gates of York. When he retraced his steps northward, William de Melton, the Archbishop of York, gathered an army of 10,000 men, including a large number of priests, monks, canons, and other persons in ecclesiastical orders, and pursued. The Scots were overtaken at Myton, where, after a brief conflict, they entirely routed their pursuers, who lost in slain and drowned above 2000 men (some accounts say 4000). This conflict obtained the name of the " White Battle," from the large number of priests who perished in it.
The Church of Myton is supposed to have been built of stone from the ruins of Isurium. In the windows of the chancel there is some good stained glass.
ALMONDBURY.—In the vicinity of Huddersfield.
AMPLEFORTH.—In the vicinity of Coxwold.ASKEBN, AND VICINITY.
43
ASKERN AND ITS NEIGHBOURHOOD.
Hotels—Crown, Swan, White Hart.
From Doncaster, 6J miles; from Pontefract, 11—both by raiL
The mineral "waters for which this village is celebrated had attracted attention more than a century ago, but the place till within the last few years was an insignificant hamlet. It is pleasantly situated on the slope of a rocky eminence, which rises behind it to a height of seventy feet, affording a very extensive view of the level country around. The Spa, which is sulphureous, is situated by the side of a small but picturesque sheet of water, called Askern Pool. It is of great benefit to persons afflicted with rheumatism and scorbutic diseases; but the place has also attractions, in the salubrity of its air, and the scenery in its neighbourhood, for those who are afflicted with no bodily ailment. Our space does not admit of a mofe detailed notice of this rising watering-place. It has hotels and private lodgings for the accommodation of visitors, and will doubtless be rendered additionally attractive by the exertions of its inhabitants. A neat Church, in the early English style, consisting of nave and chancel, with a belfry at the west end, was erected in 1851. There is also a Wesleyan Chapel.
The scenery in the vicinity of Ajskern is pleasing, but not very romantic. Barnsdale, which stretches towards the northwest, includes various spots worth visiting, such aa Campsall, a mile distant, which has an ancient church, with some remains of Saxon architecture; Kirk Smeaton, and the Smeaton Crags, a little distance beyond—a picturesque and pleasing scene. " Merry Barnsdale" derives some interest from its associations with Robin Hood. It was the scene of one of his most noted exploits—his adventure with the Bishop of Hereford. The concluding verses of the ballad give the principal points of the story :—
" Then Robin he took the bishop by the hand, And led him to merry Barnsdale; He made him to stay and sup with him that nighty And to drink wine, beer, and ale.
"' Call in a reckoning,' said the bishop, ' For methinks it goes wondrous high. — 'Iiend me your purse, master,' said Little John, ' And I'll tell you by and by.'44
ATHELSTAN ABBEY.
" Then Little John took the bishop's cloak, And spread it upon the ground, And out of the bishop's portmanteau He told three hundred pound.
"' Here's money enough, master,' said Little John, ' And a comely sight 'tis to see ; It makes me in charity with the bishop, Though he heartily loveth not me.'
" Bobin Hood took the bishop by the hand, And he caused the music to play, And he made the old bishop to dance in his boots, And glad he could so get away."
Robin Hood's Well, a small hamlet about three miles to the south-west of Askern, derives its name from a well by the roadside which tradition associates with the outlaw. Burgh Wallis, a mile nearer, has some ancient monuments in its church. Owston, about a mile and a half from Askern, and half a mile from Burgh Wallis, has an interesting church, with two beautiful marble monuments by Chantrey, consisting of the effigies of Col. Bryan Cooke and his lady. This village is noted for its cream cheeses. Arlcsey Church contains many beautiful specimens of stained glass, of the fourteenth century. Robert Portington, a brave general and faithful follower of Charles I., is interred here.
ATHELSTAN ABBEY.
Athelstan Abbey, called also Eggleston Abbey, on the authority of some early records, is beautifully situated on the bank of the Tees, a mile and a half from Barnard Castle. The foundation, according to most writers, was made by Conon, Earl of Richmond, in the latter part of the twelfth century. Its name is associated with Saxon times, probably from its having been one of the places given by Athelstan to the church, to make atonement for the murder of his brother. It was occupied by Premonstratensian canons, and dedicated to St. Mary and John the Baptist. At the Dissolution, its gross revenues amounted to £65 : 5 : 6.
Enough remains of this ancient structure to give one an idea of its Bize and importance. It is beautifully situate on a gentle eminence near the junction of " fairy Thorsgill" with the Tees.ATHELSTAU ABBEY-BABNSLEY.
45
The architecture does not present much in the way of ornament: the east window of the church, indeed, is bare even to deformity. Two piscinae yet remain in the wall of the choir. On the greensward which carpets the floor of the Abbey church, are several monumental stones, two of which, one to an abbot, and the other to a member of the old Rokeby family, are worthy of particular examination. Some of the monastic buildings have been converted into dwelling-houses for cottars, and present a curious mixture of the mean and the picturesque.
In this abbey Scott lays the closing scene of "Rokeby." Thus he describes the ancient structure :—
" The reverend pile lay wild and waste, Profaned, dishonour'd, and defaced, Through storied lattices no more In softened light the sunbeams pour, Gilding the Gothic sculpture rich Of shrine, and monument, and niche. The civil fury of the time Made sport of sacrilegious crime; For dark Fanaticism rent Altar, and screen, and ornament, And peasant hands the tombs o'erthrew Of Bowes, of Rokeby, and Fitz-Hugh."
Here passed the soul of the gentle "Wilfred, " too soft its ilia to bear." Here his wretched sire found a lifetime's arts burst in destruction on his own head ; and here Bertram Risingham fitly perished after his latest crime.
" Fell as he was in act and mind, He left no bolder heart behind; Then give him for a soldier meet, A soldier's cloak for winding-sheet."
When in this neighbourhood, the tourist may visit Greta Bridge and Rokeby (see Rokeby).
BAENSLEY.
Hotels.—The King's Head, The Royal.
From Wakefield, 11 miles; Sheffield, 19J; Doncaster, 16J; Huddersfleld, 21J.
Barnsley is a progressing town, built without method, and having no architectural pretensions, though, from its position on two eminences, it is in some aspects not destitute of a certain46
babnsley.
picturesqueness. The flax manufacture is extensively carried on here. There are many large mills in the town and neighbourhood, comprising about 1000 power looms ; besides which, there are from 000 to 4000 hand-looms, employed in the manufacture of drills, diapers, damasks, towellings, huckabacks, sheetings, fancy vestings, etc. Employment is also given to a large number of persons in iron foundries, dye-houses, bleaching and print works, and breweries. There are 42 coal mines in this district, which in 1860 gave a produce of 2,430,000 tons. At the census of 1871, the population of Barnsley was 23,021. In 1801 it was only 3606 ; so that the increase since the beginning of the present century is nearly 400 per cent.
Thomas W. Atkinson, the Siberian traveller, author of "Travels in the Region of the Upper and Lower Amoor, and the Russian Acquisitions on the Confines of India and China," was born near Barnsley in 1799, and died in 1861. "He was, in the truest and best sense," says the Athenceum, " a self-made man. Left an orphan when a child, he began life for himself at the early age of eight, from which time he gained his own living, while training himself into a good scholar and a wp.11-mfl.Tmp.TP.rl gentleman. Those who met him in his latter years in the drawing-room or the country house, were struck by the undefinable grace and bearing which are sometimes thought to be the monopoly of ancient race. He educated himself as an architect, and a church built by him in Manchester testifies to his skill as a builder; but his instrument was the pencil, and his vocation that of a traveller."
The Pabish Church, dedicated to St. Majy, was, with the exception of its tower, rebuilt in 1821. It consists of nave, aisles, transepts (with aisles pn their east side), and chancel. The general style is Perpendicular. The tops of the walls and of the tower axe battlemented, and adorned with pinnacles. The fabric is, altogether, a handsome one, though it has nothing to attract the interest of the antiquary. There are several other churches in Barnsley.
The Independent Chubch, which arrests the tourist's attention on his leaving the station, deserves to be mentioned among the prominent buildings of Barnsley. It is a beautiful structure in the decorated Gothic style, and has a lofty and well-proportioned spire. It was erected in 1851. There are other dissenting places of worship. The other public buildings are the CountyBAENSLEY.
47
Court, the Corn Market, the Grammar School, Holy-Rood School, etc.
In 1861, Mrs. Locke, widow of Joseph Locke, Esq., MP. (who was educated at the gram mar school of this town), presented to the inhabitants of Baxnsley a public Park, with an endowment for keeping it in order. The same lady also gave donations of £2000 to the Grammar School, and .£1000 to the Holy-Rood School. It is proposed to erect a monument to Mr. Locke in the park.
At Baxnsley the tourist may hear the south Yorkshire dialect spoken in its perfection. Should he visit the town on a market day (Wednesday), he may, if his ear is very fine, detect the nice variations of this dialect which prevail in different parts of the surrounding districts. The broad general characteristics of the common speech of the people, however, will of themselves afford most tourists sufficiently difficult matter of study. We quote a specimen of this strange dialect from a number of a clever little yearly publication entitled " T° Bairnsla Foaks Annual, an Pogmoor Olmenack. Be Tom Treddlehoyle, Esq." Tom thus speaks of the Park presented to Barneley by Mrs. Locke :—
" Well, nah, it's a grand thing iz this, let ma tell yo, yo wurkin class foaks, it iz really, an no mistack, to hev a Park gien yo ta wauk abaht in when iwer yo like ; wha, bless uz, yol ardly naw wot ails yo, an it's ta be feard at it al mack yo vain enif ta think at yor on a levil wi all t'great foaks it t'naborhood, an drop tutchin yer hats when yo meet em, az yov been uze ta do. But lets hoape not, an at yol nobbat just feel praad at t'boon's been gien ta yo, an nowt na more. That bein t'caise, wun caant but say, wot an a nice spot t'owd favrit High Style al be, for that's t'spot, let ma tell yo, at's been pickt aht for yo ta reckreate in. Yes, that's it ; an thear cuddant a been a likelier plaice if yod a all settan too an made wun for yersenze ; an when it's all set aht i flaar beds, planted wi trees, faantans made, an twistad all ower wi wauks, it all be a seet wurth lookin at, for wun can fancy at there yol be dahn a yer knees snuffin at pinks an roses, guessin wot soart ov a shrub this iz, an wot soart ov a plant that iz; owd wimmin set under t'trees knittin their huzband stockms, an yung wimmin stitchin their fancy wark, an reading luv letters; an innacent gams theal be noa daht a all soarts beside for yo ta amuse yersenze wi an lake at. Thear wun al be Bcrimin up a poll, anuther swingin on a merry trotter, sum48
BEN RHYDDING.
lakein at blind man's buff, an uthers fiddlin an doncin wi all ther might. Wlia, all this al be enif ta mack owd foaks i Bairnsla yung agean, an yungans ta hey cheeks like roses, an niwer ta want sich an a thing az onny docktor's fissick wal they live."
The vicinity of Barnsley has several spots of interest. The chief of these are Monk Bretton Priory, distant about 2 miles, and Wentworth Castle, distant 3 miles.
Monk Bretton Priory, founded by Adam Fitz Sweyne, about the year 1156, was, besides Pontefract, the only religious house of the Cluniac order in Yorkshire. The remains axe not extensive. They consist of the ancient gateway, part of the domestic buildings, and fragments of a church of singular beauty, A few gravestones with defaced crosses mark the last resting-place of the brotherhood.
Wentworth Castle, the seat of F. V. "Wentworth, Esq., was built about 1730 by Thomas, Earl of Strafford, on the site of an ancient fortress. The grounds are finely laid out; but the mansion, which is quadrangular in form, is regarded by some persons as heavy and deficient in taste. The apartments are spacious and elegant, and are adorned with some good paintings. The following are the names of the chief of these :—Holbein— Portrait of a Monk ; Lorenzo Lotto—Male portrait; Rubens— A landscape ; Sir Peter Lely—Portrait of Cromwell; Unknown —Portrait of JScolampadius the Reformer (Waagen ascribes it to Holbein) ; Lucas de Heere—Portrait of Eleanor Brandon, dated 1550 ; Albano—The Flight into Egypt ; Velasquez—Portrait of Sir Philip Sydney ; Rubens—Portrait of a General; Frederigo Zucchero—The Earl of Essex ; Sir Peter Lely—Female portrait: Vandyck—The Earl of Strafford; and one of the portraits oi Yandyck.
BEN RHYDDING.
From Leeds, 17 miles; Bradford, 16; Otley, 5; Hkley Station, 1; Arthington station, 9; Skipton station, 10; London, 207.
This hydropathic establishment has become so noted as a place of resort, both for patients and visitors, that it is presumed a description of it will be acceptable even to the passing tourist. It is reached conveniently from Ben Rhydding station, which is within a few hundred yards of the house. Letters should beBEN HHYDDING.
49
directed " by Leeds." It occupies a position about midway between London and Edinburgh, and also between Liverpool and Hull, and is, therefore, easy of access from all parts of the country. The pedestrian may reach it from Keighley by a delightful walk of about seven miles over the heights of Rombald's Moor.
The building is a very extensive and imposing structure, situated on the southern side of Wharfedale, midway up the slope of Rombald's Moor. It is in the Scottish Baronial style, in perfect harmony with the picturesque scenery of the surrounding country. The internal arrangements are of the best description. Besides the dining and drawing rooms, where the visitors and patients meet on common ground, there are sitting-rooms for those who wish retirement. The south wing of the building contains the ladies', and the north the gentlemen's bedrooms. There is accommodation for about 150 visitors. The provisioning of the establishment is conducted in the best and most generous style, and every arrangement is made for amusement and healthful recreation by means of billiard-rooms, bowling and croquet greens, American bowling-alley, and racket-court.
The establishment is under the direction of the late Dr. Macleod's representatives, the resident physician being J. F. Little, L.R.C.P., Edinburgh. The treatment of patients is not solely hydropathic, but according to the practice, whether exclusively hydropathic or not, which modern science and experience commend as sound and salutary. One peculiar feature of the medical treatment is the Compressed-air Bath. This is a chamber constructed of iron plates riveted together so as to be perfectly air-tight, and having a close-fitting iron, door, and small windows, each of a single piece of strong plate-glass. A steam-engine pumps in air to the required pressure, and there is a contrivance for securing ventilation, without disturbing the pressure to which the air has been brought. The compressed-air bath is considered a beneficial agent for the cure or relief 'of chest affections where other remedies have failed. It is also held suitable for nervous palpitation of the heart, chronic headache from over-study, chronic jaundice, and other complaints. There are all the ordinary appliances at Ben Rhydding for carrying out the various processes of the water-cure. The Turkish bath is, externally and internally, a very handsome building; and the arrangements made for carrying out its different processes are very complete.
B50
BEN RHYDDING.
The grounds by which Ben Rhydding is surrounded form one of its special features. They are beautifully laid out, well kept, and extend to upwards of one hundred acres. The soil being sandy, the walks are almost invariably dry and firm. The billiard-room and Turkish bath form a separate building within the grounds, and there is also an elegant Gothic fountain where the water (which is of the finest quality) flows profusely into a marble basin, with inviting purity and coolness. This fountain was erected by Mr. Hamer Stansfield as a memorial of Priessnitz, the discoverer of the water-cure. A little above the fountain, and reached by an agreeable walk, a picturesque artificial lake has been formed. By a further ascent the top of a grassy hill is reached, to which the name of Arthur's Seat has been given. Ffrom this there is a beautiful and extensive view. Southward of this stretches the extensive upland waste of Rom-bald's Moor, where the pedestrian may roam undisturbed for miles among the heather, imbibing the fresh air. A peculiar feature is given to the scenery about Ben Rhydding by the remarkably shaped impending rocks called The Cow and Calf, so disposed on the hill as if they would at any moment topple over and roll down into the valley beneath. The Calf (the lower of the two) is isolated, and to reach its top is no easy nor altogether safe feat. The Cow forms the summit of the hill, and is 860 feet above the level of the sea. From it the Calf appears to have been detached at some distant period and been intercepted in its downward progress. To ascend the Cow before breakfast is one of the healthful morning exercises at Ben Rhydding. As viewed from Ben Rhydding the beautiful valley of the Wharfe spreads out before the eye, varied with trees, fields, villages, and mansions. Of the latter, two occupy conspicuous positions almost directly opposite—namely, Middelton Hall and Denton Park (page 269). A road conducts from Ben Rhydding to the River Wharfe, which can be crossed here by a series of well-formed stepping-stones, and from this either of these mansions may be visited. There is said to be good trout-fishing in the Wharfe. An agreeable private byeroad through the fields (in addition to the upper public road) conducts to the town of Ilkley (page 201), which is rather more than a mile westwards of Ben Rhydding. Ilkley has made great progress since the period of its railway connection. It contains some good streets, a large hotel, good shops, some villa residences, and several hydropathic establishments.BEVERLEY.
51
Carriages may generally be obtained at Ilkley Railway Station. An agreeable ramble may be made from Ben Rhydding eastwards to Burley, two miles, and Otley, five miles distant. The former is a clean village (with modern church), whose inhabitants are engaged in the neighbouring woollen mills. Otley is an ancient little town, with an old church, described at page 266, The principal excursion from Ben Rhydding is Bolton Abbey (page 64), and which is six miles distant, or five from Ilkley. The more remote excursions comprise such places as Harrogate, Fountains Abbey, and York. Further information may be obtained from Tomlinson's neat and well illustrated Handy Guide to Ben Rhydding.
BEVERLEY.
Hotels.—Beverley Arms, Morley ; King's Arms, Cross Keys, Holderness. From Hull, 8J miles; York (by Market Weighton), 34; Bridlington, 22J; Selby, 39 ;
Scarborough, 45J.
Beverley, the ancient capital of the East Riding, is situated at the foot of the York Wolds, and about a mile from the river Hull. There are some grounds for believing that it was founded in the second century by Lucius, a British king, in the reign of Aurelius Com modus, and that it is the Peiouaria mentioned by Ptolemy. It was known anciently by the names of Beuerlega, Beverlacus, and Beverlac. It is supposed by most writers that the name means " lake of beavers," from the abundance of these animals in the neighbourhood, which was a lake or a morass, according as the waters of the Hull rose or fell * Its ancient history is, however, very obscure till the time of St. John of Beverley, who founded a church here. St. John died in 721. He was archbishop of York for thirty-three years, but died and was buried at Beverley. In 866 the church and the monastery attached to it were destroyed by the Danes ; but they were rebuilt three years afterwards. Athelstane, after his great victory over the Danes in 938, on which occasion the standard of St. John of Beverley had been carried before his army, * Phillips controverts this derivation: " Beverley itself, instead of being Beverlac, owing its name to beavers and lakes, is Bimply Pedwar-llech, the ancient Petouaria, marked, as other British towns seem to have been, by ' four Btones'—in this instance stones of sanctuary, a privilege of higher antiquity, it is probable, than Athelstane, by whom it is said to have been granted after the battle of Branan-burgh."52
BEVERLEY.
granted many privileges to the town and monastery. In 1188, the principal part of the town was destroyed by fire, the church of St. John sharing its fate. During the civil wars in the time of Charles I., Beverley was alternately in the possession of Royalists and Parliamentarians. Sir John Hotham, who had represented the town in successive parliaments, was arrested here on his flight from Hull (which he had been making overtures to betray to the king), and conveyed to London, where he was charged with " traitorously betraying the trust imposed upon him by parliament (as Governor of Hull), and with perfidiously adhering to the enemy," condemned, and afterwards beheaded in 1645.
This ancient borough has given birth to a number of eminent persons. Alured of Beverley, the biographer of St. John, was born about 1109, and died about 1166. John Alcocke, successively Bishop of Rochester, Worcester, and Ely, twice held the oflBce of Lord High Chancellor of England. He was also Master of the Rolls and Privy Councillor, and founded Jesus College, Cambridge, and the Grammar School, Hull. The date of his birth is unknown; he died in 1500. John Fisher, born in 1459, was first private chaplain to the mother of Henry VII., and afterwards Bishop of Rochester. For his determined opposition to the measures of Henry VIII. he was committed to the Tower, and the Pope having rewarded his constancy by making him a cardinal, he was shortly afterwards tried and executed, 1535. John Green, Bishop of Lincoln, was born in 1706, and died in 1779. He left a fund in support of education in his native place. Miss Julia Pardoe, the authoress of " The Romance of the Harem," and other popular works, is a native of Beverley.
The importance of Beverley lies almost entirely in the past. Its houses are good, but they look mean in the presence of such noble edifices as the Minster and St. Maiy's Church. The town was disfranchised for corruption in 1870. The elections for the East Riding and county .courts are held here ; and it is these circumstances, more than its trade, which keep it from falling into decay. Its present trade is in tanned leather, oatmeal, malt, corn, coal, and agricultural implements. The population at the census of 1871 was 10,218, being an increase of 564 Bince the last enumeration; and the inhabited houses, 2379.beverley minster-the exterioll.
63
Beverley is a little out of the ordinary track of the majority of tourists. Yet we venture to say that the grand old Minster will repay a detour of many miles, and the tourist will loose a great pleasure if he leave it unvisited. The direct route by rail from York, by Market Weighton greatly facilitates the access.
The Minster, or Collegiate Church of St. John, ranks next to York Minster among the ecclesiastical structures of the county. The original edifice, as has been stated, was built—or, as some say, enlarged and beautified—by St. John of Beverley in the beginning of the eighth century. There is, however, no record of the date of the erection of the present building. The difference in the style of different parts makes it evident that it must have been built at different periods. The oldest parts belong to the thirteenth century, being in the early pointed or early English style. The whole east end, with the first arch of the nave, is in this style, with the exception of the windows in the south aisle of the choir, and the great east window, which are later. Mr. Britton remarks—" the compactness, the regularity, and the fine proportions of the elevations of the south front of the larger transept, make it worthy of minute examination ; such an example of the style of the thirteenth century being very rarely to be met with." The nave is next in point of antiquity, being of the decorated English style. Of a later style—the perpendicular—are the north porch, three western windows in the north aisle of the nave, and the west front. We quote the description given of these parts by Mr. Rickman, in his work on the " Styles of Architecture in England." Regarding the north porch, he says—" The north porch of Beverley Minster is, as a panelled front, perhaps unequalled. The door has a double canopy, the inner an ogee, and the outer a triangle, with beautiful crockets and tracery, and is flanked by fine buttresses, breaking into niches, and the space above the canopy to the cornice is panelled; the battlement is composed of rich niches, and the buttresses irowned by a group of four pinnacles." Of the west front he remarks—" What the west front of York is to the decorated style, this is to the perpendicular, with this addition, that in this front nothing but one style is seen ; all is harmonious. Like York Minster, it consists of a very large west window to the nave, nnd two towers for the end of the aisles. This window is of64
beverley minster-the exterior.
nine lights, and the tower windows of three lights. The windows in the tower correspond in range nearly with those of the aisles and clerestory windows of the nave ; the upper windows of the tower are belfry windows. Each tower has four large and eight small pinnacles, and a very beautiful battlement. The whole front is panelled, and the buttresses, which have a very bold projection, are ornamented with various tiers of niche-work, of excellent composition and most delicate execution. The doors are uncommonly rich, and have the hanging feathered ornament; the canopy of the great centre door runs up above the sill of the window, and stands full in the centre light with a very fine effect. The gable has a real tympanum, which is filled with fine traceiy. The east front is fine, but mixed with early English." The great east window is perpendicular, though it has manifestly been originally early English. It is apparently a copy of that in York Minster, and contains all the remains of old 6tained glass which the building now, possesses.
Having given this account of the styles of architecture observable in the building, we may give its principal dimensions before proceeding with our description :—length from east to west, 334 ft. 4 in.; breadth of the nave and side aisles, 64 ft. 3 in.; length of the great transept, 169 ft. 6 in.; height of the nave, 67 ft.; height of side aisles, 33 ft. ; height of central tower, 107 ft.; height of the two western towers, 200 ft.
From its perfectly insulated position, this noble pile may be examined on all sides, and the peculiar style and beauty of the different parts readily observed. We cannot dwell upon the various details which are deserving of note ; indeed, the intelligent visitor does not require to have his attention drawn to the western towers, with their finely ornamented buttresses and beautiful windows ; to the great centre door between them, with its exquisitely carved arch, and the noble window above ; to the flying buttresses and pinnacles of the nave ; to the varying style of the windows, as lie passes on to examine the exterior of the transept; to the great east window, and other hardly less important features of the sacred edifice. Fine views of the Minster, in conjunction with neighbouring scenery, may be had from various points, particularly from Westwood common, in the vicinity.
The interior is very imposing. The Nave comprises eleven pointed arches ; and the simplicity and chasteness of its lofty vaulted roof has a finer effect than the most elaborate ornamen-beverley minster—the interior.
55
tation could produce. It is vaulted with arches and cross springers. We have not space for the technical architectural details of the nave, hut may remark that the elevation shews three storeys of architecture—1st, the principal arcade formed by the main pillars dividing the nave and aisles ; 2d, the triforium, a small arcade of pointed arches ; and 3d, the clerestory, having a gallery of communication, which is protected by lancet arches on each side of the window.
The Choir and Transepts ate of a similar style. The Organ Screen, which separates the choir from the nave, is not admired. The Altar Screen, however, is a beautiful work. It is a restoration of one partially destroyed by the Puritans in the time of Cromwell. " The whole of this screen," remarks Hickman, " is so excellent, and so near the eye, that it forms perhaps the best school in England for decorated details ; and there is also in the nave and transepts of the church, the details of foliage, figures, and animals, almost level with the eye, in the niches under the windows, from the Early English to the Perpendicular style, both included. In this respect the church is superior, as a study, to York Minster ; because there, though the details are as good in many parts, they are, most of them, too far from the eye." The screen was restored in 1826.
The Stalls, too, present richly carved wood-work. The seats, when folded up, present the grotesque carved figures that seem to have been generally regarded in ancient times as their appropriate embellishments. From a date on one of them, these stalls appear to belong to the time of Henry VIII.
There are two modern figures, one on each side of the entrance to the choir, intended to represent King Athelstane and St. John of Beverley. These personages may also be seen in an old and faded painting on wood over the door of the south transept. Athelstane is represented as giving St. John a charter of privilege, with the words—
3W fre male 31 GTfje i)trt mas rtjgn&e mag £tt.
On the other side of this door is another painting on wood of the same size, bearing the royal arms, with the initials " C. R." above them.56
BEVERLEY MINSTER-THE INTERIOR.
In. the north aisle of the choir is a rude stone chair called the Frid-stool, or Freedstool. Camden preserves an inscription which is said to have been engraved upon it, but he evidently gives it from the report of others, not having seen it himself. The inscription he gives is as follows :—" Haec 6edes lapidea Freedstool dicitur ; i. e., pacis cathedra, adquam reus fugiendo perveniens omnimodam habet securitatem." It would thus appear, that the criminal who fled for sanctuary to Beverley, whether on account of debt or any capital offence, was free from all danger when he was seated in this chair. There is no trace of any inscription on the chair, but it is not improbable that there may have been an inscription upon it at one time, as it is considerably defaced.
The Percy Shrine is the principal monument in the Minster. It is on the north side of the chancel, between two of the columns. This stately and much admired monument is referred to the days of Edward III. The monument itself bears no inscription serving to indicate the person in memory of whom it was raised ; but various collateral circumstances go to strengthen the tradition which assigns it to Lady Idonea, daughter of Robert, Lord Clifford, and wife of Henry de Percy, second Lord Percy of Alnwick. It consists of a pedestal surmounted by a magnificent canopy, the canopy terminating in a splendid finial. On this finial sits a figure emblematic of Our Lord in the posture of benediction. The object of benediction is the lady to whom the monument belongs ; she appears to be rising out of a winding-sheet, the ends of which are supported by angels. The tomb is further adorned with figures of knights with shields, angels with censers, and other details, all exquisitely sculptured. This shrine has been pronounced to be " the first of models of ancient monuments, wherein every effort that sculpture and masonry could combine is displayed in one great excellence."
In the east aisle of the north transept there is an altar-tomb to another member of the Percy family. It bears the effigy of a priest, and is much mutilated. This tomb (of which there is a model in the Crystal Palace) belongs to the fifteenth century.
The Percy Chapel, on the north side of the great east window, contains an altar-tomb of grey marble, in the Perpendicular style, to Henry, the fourth Earl of Northumberland, who was killed at Topcliffe in 1489. Little of the original magnificence of this tomb now remains. The funeral of this nobleman cost £1510 : 0 : 8, equal to £12,000 of our money.BEVERLEY MINSTER-THE INTERIOR.	B7
The Maiden Tomb, in the south aisle of the nave, is the only other monument we shall notice. It is of earlier date than the Percy shrine, and, though less rich, is not less chaste and elegant. It is an altar-tomb, covered with a ponderous slab of Purbeck marble, and placed under a beautiful canopy. There is no inscription, or indeed any other clue, to lead to a knowledge of the person or persons to whose memory it was erected. Tradition says that it marks the resting-place of two maiden sisters, who gave two of the common pastures to the town. A legend connected with these sisters has been embodied in a poem, originally published in the " Literary Gazette." "We can quote only a few stanzas:—
" The tapers are blazing, the mass Is sung, In the Chapel of Beverley, And merrily too the bells have rung;
'Tis the eye of our Lord's nativity; And the holy maids are kneeling round, While the moon shines bright on the hallowed ground.
" And again the merry bells have rung, So sweet through the starry sky; For the midnight maps hath this night been snng,
And the chalice is lifted high, And the nuns are kneeling in holiest prayer, Yes, all, save these meek-eyed sisters fair.
" The snows have melted, the fields are green, The cuckoo singeth aloud, The flowers are budding, the sunny sheen Beams bright through the parted cloud, And maidens are gathering the sweet breathed May, But these gentle sisters, oh, where are they ?
" And summer is coine in rosy pride,
"Tis the eve of the blessed Saint John, And the holy nuns after vesper tide
All forth from the chapel are gone; While to taste the cool of the evening hour, The Abbess hath sought the topmost tower.
"Gramercy, sweet ladye ! and can it be?— The long-lost sisters fair On the threshold lie calm and silently,
As in holiest slumber there I Yet sleep they not, but entranced they liJ, With lifted hands and heavenward eye.
" 0 long lost maidens, arise ! arise I Say, when did you hither stray ?68
BEVERLEY-ST. MARY'S CHURCH.
They have turned to the abbess with ttieir meek, blue eyea—
' Not an hour hath passed away ; But glorious visions our eyes have seen : O, sure in the kingdom of heaven we've been I'
" "Tis o'er 1 side by side, in the Chapel fair, Are the sainted maidens laid; With their snowy brow, and their glossy hair,
They look not like the dead; Fifty summers have come and passed away, But their loveliness knoweth no decay 1
" And many a chaplet of flowers is hung, And many a bead told there, And many a hymn of praise is sung. And many a low breathed prayer; And many a pilgrim bends the knee At the shrine of the sisters of Beverley."
The Organ, which ia an excellent and powerful instrument, was built by Snetzler, in 1767, and improved by Ward of York, in 1824, in the September of which year the first Oratorio festival held north of the Trent took place in the Minster, when the Messiah, Samson, and Judas Maccabseus were produced.
St. Mary's Church. This edifice of itself would be sufficient to give an interest to Beverly in the eyes of all admirers of ancient and beautiful ecclesiastical architecture. Little is known of its history previous to 1325, when it was constituted a vicarage. The present church, which is a large, and handsome building, is in various styles, and consists of a nave and aisles, chancel and aisles, and transepts ; a tower rising at the intersection.
The West front is in the Early Perpendicular style, and exceedingly rich. The entrance is in the centre by a fine pointed doorway, the mouldings of which rest on four columns. Above the door is an elegant window of seven lights. The tracery in this window, as in those of the aisles in this front, is particularly beautiful The two octagonal towers in this front, rising above the roof, in a line with the walls of the nave, have been much admired. They nearly approach the Decorated style.
The Nave is also Perpendicular ; but some parts of it are earljer. The north door is Early English ; and the south, door has remains of Norman. The latter is particularly deserving of notice. It is a noble stone porch of considerable projection, each side of which is divided by buttresses into two divisions,beverley—st. mary's church.
50
containing each, two pointed windows of two lights. But it is to the entrance-arch itself that we call attention. It is very-rich, its spandril being filled with grotesque heads and other ornaments. Above the arch is a canopy richly crocketted. The flying buttresses against the wall, on either side of the entrance, were designed by Mr. Pugin, the celebrated architect. They are so thoroughly in keeping with the general character of the building, that they would scarcely be recognised as a modern addition.
The other parts of the exterior are analogous in design and decoration. The tower has double buttresses at the angles, and ends in a richly embattled parapet adorned with pinnacles. It contains a peal of six bells, a clock, and chimes that play three tunes.
The interior is exceedingly interesting, beautiful, and chaste. For elegance, richness, and lightness, it is inferior to none in the kingdom. The Nave contains a number of curious inscriptions. From some of these it appears that the pillars on its north side were built at the expense of various private individuals. One of the pillars, in addition to having the legends—" Thys pylior made the maynstyrls," and " Orate pro animabus Hysteriorum," has the figures of five minstrels with their musical instruments ; and the pillar being immediately facing the corporation pew, the mimic little band seem to be preparing to play in honour of the magistrates.
At the west end of the nave there is a marble font, with the inscription—" Pray for the soules of Wyllyam Feryfax, draper, and his wyvis, which made this font of his pper cost, the day of March v., of our Lord m.d.x.x.x.
On the ceiling of the South, Transept are painted the figures of various saints, with the name of each, and the invocation— " Ora pro nobis." The ceiling of the North Transept (like most of the others) is painted ail azure colour and powdered with golden stars. Several bosses are charged with Latin inscriptions.
The Chancel is divided from its aisles by five pointed arches on each side, springing from clustered columns, and forms a very interesting part of the building. The roof of the chancel is divided into forty compartments, containing the portraits of the English kings from " King Brutus" down to Edward IV., with the length of their reigns and their places of burial. These portraits are not60
BEVERLEY-ST. MARY'S CHURCH.
arranged in chronological order ; nor are the particulars on the scrolls thoroughly correct. On each side of the chancel aisles are fourteen oak stalls, without canopies, richly ornamented with carved shields and the usual grotesque figures and devices.
There is one part of the chancel which is very much admired by architects and ecclesiologists. We refer to the ceiling of the eastern part of the north aisle. " It makes a singular appearance from the mode in which the ribs spring from the piers, and cross each other as tliey rise upwards. The ribs which form the groins of the roof unite on the north side in a cluster at the impost, and are continued down the pier, forming with it one unbroken line, being destitute of impost, mouldings, or capital ; but on the opposite side they all enter into rings, without appearing below them ; they do not spring, as is usual, from the 6£tme circumference of one circle, but are distributed. The arrangement produces this singular effect, that the ribs upon the south side cross each other, whereas those on the north side diverge uniformly—a contrast which is extremely curious." This intersection and interlacing of the mouldings is as unusual as it is beautiful. There is a side chapel out of this aisle, also groined. Before leaving the north aisle, let us copy a weighty inscription which is carved on one of the oaken beams here :—
" iHajm ttt tljjj IsfFung Iotofe <®olr afcoton all tijmtjj autr mcr tljimfte at ttjc fctgjmiiimjj qufyat s'cljall ratome off tfjc enitgrtfl."
Among the Monuments in this church, the chief are those to Sir Robert Warton, who died in 17C0 ; Ralph Warton, who died in 1708 ; and Sir Edward Barnard, who died in 1686. There is a slab to the memory Of Dr. Drake, author of " Ebora-cum, or the History and Antiquities of the City of York." He died in 1771, aged 76. Numerous casts have been taken from the decorative sculpture of this church and of the Minster, to enrich and adorn both Houses of Parliament at Westminster, Several mural monuments have been removed from their original positions.
In ancient times there was a monastery of Black Friars, and another of Franciscans or Grey Friars here. Two gateways of the former may still be seen on the north-east of the Minster. The Knights Hospitallers, too, had an estate here.
There is an ancient gateway, the only remaining one of five,vtcinity of beverley.
f>l
by which the town was originally entered. It is called the North Bar. Its antiquity of appearance might have been better preserved. The Town Cross is a modern erection, more curious than useful. The Westwood, granted to the burgesses by Archbishop Neville in 1380, is a favourite resort at all seasons, and commands a varied and extensive prospect. The air is delightful and invigorating. The numerous schools, hospitals, charities, dissenting chapels, etc. require no special notice.
From Beverley a coach runs once a day, during the season, to Hornsea, 10 miles distant, a favourite sea-bathing place (see Hornsea). A line of railway to Market Weighton was completed in 1864, thus affording direct communication with York, and ready access to many places of interest in the intervening country (see Market Weighton). By the road a pleasant walk of three miles will bring the tourist to the hamlet of Bishop Burton. On the left of the road, a mile and a half from Beverley, stands the shaft of an old stone cross, in a stone socket. It is called the Stump Cross, and is doubtless one of the sanctuary crosses which formerly stood on the principal roads leading to Beverley.
Bishop Burton is a picturesque hamlet, pleasantly wooded. The Church, which was thoroughly restored in 1865, is an edifice of considerable beauty and interest, and consists of nave, aisles, chancel, and tower. The chancel is in the Early Decorated style of architecture, and lined with oak stalls. The floor is of Minton tiles, of elaborate design. Fine pointed arches divide the nave from the aisles and chancel. The clerestory windows are square-headed and divide into two pointed lights. The open seats in the nave are of red deal, stained and varnished. The interior has a very beautiful and imposing effect, and reflects great credit on the contractors, Messrs. Simpson and Malone of Hull. In the chancel there is a monument with the recumbent effigy of the wife of William Gee, Esq. of Bishop Burton, who died in 1683 ; beside her is the kneeling figure of her child. An old brass in the floor of the nave has the figure of a woman with folded hands, and is dated 1524. There is a piscina in the south wall of the chancel, projecting, and sculptured with foliage. In the churchyard there is the base and part of the shaft of a stone cross. The church is prettily situated.
Near Bishop Burton them is a large mound or rath, possibly British.62
bolton castle.
The return to Beverley may be varied by going round by Cherry Burton, where there is a new and tasteful church in the early decorated 6tyle, consisting of nave, north aisle, chancel, and tower. Here the Malton road is reached, about miles from Beverley.
Meaux Abbey.—The small remains of Meaux Abbey are about 4 miles from Beverley, eastward. This abbey was founded about the year 1140 by William le Gros, Earl of Albemarle, to absolve himself from a vow he had taken to make a pilgrimage to the Holy Land. It was tenanted by monks from Fountains, and, like many of the colonies of that noted religious house, became very flourishing. The remains consist of a gateway and part of a wall. Several interesting relics have been found in excavating the ruins, such as—a tesselated pavement, a key, ring, knife, monumental stones, etc. The plan of the church can yet be traced.
BOLTON ABBEY.
See Bolton Priory and Upper Wharfedale.
BOLTON CASTLE.
Bolton Castle is 5 miles from Leyburn, and about the same distance from Wensley. From the former place (which is 18 miles by rail from Northallerton), the tourist may proceed by the Shawl, a high natural terrace to the west of the town ; from the latter he may take the pleasant road through Bolton Park. The Norman doorway of the small church of Redmire is sufficiently interesting to tempt the tourist to turn aside for a moment, should he take the latter route.*
Bolton Castle, pronounced by Leland " the fairest in Rich-mondshire," occupies a conspicuous position on the rocky slope of a bold hill. It was built in the reign of Richard II. by Richard Scrope, high-chancellor of England, at a cost, according to Leland, of 18,000 marks, or £12,000—an enormous sum for those times. The plan of the building is a square, with towers at the corners. The main entrance is in the east curtain, and has been defended by a portcullis. In the centre is an open court.
The south-western tower is inhabited by a person who Shows * It stands on the left of the road at the far end of the park.bolton castle.
63
visitors the interior of the castle. The apartments have been small but numerous. There are no traces of Norman or even of early English work about the architecture, externally or internally ; but the fortress is a good specimen of the style which prevailed at the close of the fourteenth century. The great hall was in the upper storey of the south side, and the chapel occupied a corresponding position on the north side. Close t.o the pouth-west tower is an apartment called " Queen Mary's Room," from the unhappy Queen of Scots, who was confined here for about two years, in the custody of Lord Scrope. There is a tradition that she once attempted to make her escape in the direction of Leyburn,. and an opening in the wood, not far from Leyburn, through which she is said to have passed, is still called the " Queen's Gap." Queen Mary left her name on a pane of glass in the window of her apartment, where it was preserved for many years ; but, being at length taken to Bolton Hall, it was accidentally broken ; the pieces, however, are still preserved. It was at Bolton Castle that the Duke of Norfolk made his fatal overtures to the Queen ; and it was probably the suspicion that Lord Scrope might be induced to favour the designs of his brother-in-law that induced Queen Elizabeth to remove her captive to Tutbury Castle, in Staffordshire. The south-western tower may be ascended. A prospect of great beauty may be obtained from the top.
Bolton Castle underwent a siege during the time of the Commonwealth. It was held for the king by a party of Rich-mondshire cavaliers, who capitulated on honourable terms, after they had been reduced to the necessity of eating horse-flesh: The Parliament ordered it to be rendered untenable, in 1647 ; but this was only partially done. One of the towers was so damaged that it fell two years afterwards, and the east and north sides are much dilapidated through the neglect or ill-usage of subsequent times ; but the castle still presents a most imposing pile of building.
From Bolton Castle, the tourist may proceed to explore the beauties of the upper part of Wensleydale (which see).
BOLTON PERCY.
See The Vicinity of Yobe.64
BOLTON PRIOBY.
BOLTON PRIORY AND UPPER WHARFEDALE.
Bolton Bridge.—Hotels, Devonshire Arms: Red Hon. From ILkley, 5 miles; Skipton, 6 miles.
On the road from ILkley, keeping the north side of the river, the tourist obtains a succession of beautiful views. " The river leaps and sparkles," says Mr. Phillips, " with the freshness of mountain life; the woods, if their own voices are silent, repeat the echo of the waterfall; the wild rocks and hills change colour with every fancy of the sky, or gleam with soft steady splendour in the rich evening light."
The history of this priory is romantic. About the year 1120, "William de Meschines, and Cecily his wife, the heiress of Robert de Romilld, founded at Embsay, two miles east from Skipton, a prioiy for Augustinian canons, to the honour of the Virgin Mary and St. Cuthbert. After the death of the founders, their daughter Alice, who retained her mother's name, and had married William Fitz-Duncan, nephew to David, King of Scotland, gave the monks the present site for their abbey. The commonly-received story, in connection with the removal of the priory from its bleak situation at Embsay to this beautiful and sheltered spot, is, that the Lady Alice caused it to be erected on the nearest eligible site to the place where her only son, " the boy of Egremond," perished in the Wharfe. Rogers tella the story thus:—
" At Embsay rung the matin bell, The stag was roused on Barden Fell; The mingled sounds were swelling, dying, And down the Wharfe a hern was flying; When, near the cabin in the wood, In tartan clad, and forest green, With hound in leash, and hawk in hood,
The boy of Egremond was seen. Blithe was his song—a song of yore— But where the rock is rent in two, And the river rushes through, His voice was heard no more. 'Twas but a step, the gulph he passed; But that step—it was his last 1 As through the mist he winged his way, (A cloud that hovers night and day), The hound hung back, and back he drew The master and his merlin too 1 That narrow place of noise and strife Received their little all of life I"BOLTON PRIORY.
65
A. forester witnessed the fate of young Romill£, and conveyed the sad intelligence to his mother, preparing her for it by putting the question—"What is good for a-bootless beane V' (What remains when prayer is unavailing 7) Her heart at once told her the calamity she had undergone, and she replied, " Endless sorrow !" The bereaved mother vowed that many a poor man's son should be her heir. She
" Mourned Her son, and-felt in her despair The pang of unavailing prayer; Her son in Wharfe's abysses drowned, The noble boy of Egremound. From which affliction—when the grace Of God had in her heart found place— A pious structure fair to see, Rose up, this stately priory."*
The Lady Alice liberally endowed the Priory, as did numerous other persons at subsequent periods. In 1299, the gross annual income amounted to j£867 : 17 : 6|; and about the same period the monks possessed 2193 sheep, 71 o horned cattle, 95 pigs, and 91 goats. At the time of the Dissolution, the revenues had declined to less than one-half of the above amount. The priory and estates were purchased in 1542, for the sum of £2490, by Henry Clifford, first Earl of Cumberland, from whom they have descended to the Duke of Devonshire, the present possessor.
The foundation of the monastery at Bolton by the Lady Alice, according to the account already detailed, was in the year 1151. Some parts of the structure may date almost as far back as this ; but others are much later—a tower at the west end of the church being only in progress of erection when the priory met the fate of all similar institutions, in 1540.
A scene of exquisite beauty meets the eye of the visitor
* Wordsworth.
It is a pity that any doubt should be cast upon the truth of this touching legend, fet it is' the fact, as antiquarians have proved from old charters and pedigrees, that the Lady Alice's son was a party to the transaction whereby the Augustinion canons obtained the manor of Bolton in exchange for their manors of Skibdun and Stretton. Mr. Walbran (in his " Summer's Day at Bolton Priory ") is of opinion that the exchange had been made before the accident; and that, after the death of the young Romill6 as described, " the canons were glad to find a pretext, in her disconsolate lamentation, for descending from the bleak and cheerless heights of Embsay to the warm and sheltered seclusion of their newly acquired possession."
V66
bolton priory.
when, crossing the " Town-field" (where Prince Rupert is said to have encamped on his way to Marston Moor), he comes in sight of the priory. It forms the centre of a landscape, comprising every feature which can be required to constitute a perfect picture. Whitaker gives us a beautiful and true word-picture of Bolton from the best point of view :—" But, after all, the glories of Bolton are on the north. Whatever the most fastidious taste could require to constitute a perfect landscape, is not only found here, but in its proper place. In front, and immediately under the eye, is a smooth expanse of park-like enclosure, spotted with native elm, ash, etc., of the finest growth ; on the right, a skirting oak wood, with jutting points of grey rock ; on the left, a rising copse. Still forward are seen the aged groves of Bolton Park, the growth of centuries ; and, farther yet, the barren and rocky distances of Simon's Seat and Barden Fell, contrasted to the warmth, fertility, and luxuriant foliage of the valley below."*
Bolton Hall, nearly opposite the west front of the church, was the ancient gateway of the priory. It is in the Perpendicular style, having been erected shortly before the Dissolution. Subsequently it was converted into a lodge by the Cliffords, and it was enlarged by the late Duke of Devonshire, for occasional residence during the shooting season. The hall contains 6ome pictures, chiefly family portraits, which the tourist is allowed to inspect.
The Church is the only important part of the priory now remaining. Its shell remains entire, and the nave is still used as a parochial chapel—
" In the shattered fabric's heart Remaineth one protected part, A chapel, like a wild bird's nest, Closely embowered and trimly drest; And thither young and old repair On Sabbath day, for praise and prayef."
As the whole edifice was not erected at one time, different parts present different styles. The latest part is the so-called Tower at the end, begun in 1520 by Richard Moon, but never finished. The west window is a beautiful specimen of the Perpendicular style. In the spandrils over the doorway are the arms of Clifford and of the priory. An inscription on a frieze above
• " History of Craven." page 355BOLTON IRIORY.
67
commemorates the founder after a quaint fashion, noticeable also at Fountains Abbey and other places—
$it % jjtr of afar larb	— btgaun %u fofmbarfcim on qfofyo
wfol 90b ^ttue mara. anun.
The exterior of this tower, an able antiquary has remarked, " exhibits great originality of design; but, internally, the sectional outline of the arch, by which it should have communicated with the nave, is of very insufficient projection." The south-west buttress has a figure which Whitaker supposes to be that of a pilgrim.
The west front of the Nave is Early English and has a deeply-recessed doorway, enriched with fifteen mouldings, and surmounted by three lancet lights. The north side of the nave is chiefly in the Decorated style, and the south, Early English. The interior of the nave is very interesting. It is lighted on the south side by four fine lancet windows, sub-divided into four compartments by mullions and transoms, and filled with exquisitely stained glass by the late Duke, at an expense of ,£3000. The triforium crosses the base of these windows The nave has only one aisle, which is on its north side, and is separated from it by one cylindrical column placed between two of octagonal form. Above are four single and plain lancet windows. The aisle has three Decorated windows with elegant tracery. At the east end of the aisle is a space, inclosed by a wooden lattice in the Perpendicular style, called the Chantry Chapel. Here eight large stones, lying side by side, about seven feet long, and raised twenty inches above the floor, cover the vault of the Claphams of Beamsley, who, according to the tradition alluded to by Wordsworth, were interred upright.
" Pass, pass, who will, yon chantry door: And through the chink in the fractured floor Look down, and see a griesly sight; A vault where the bodies are buried upright 1 There, face by faee, and hand by hand, The Claphams and Mauleverers stand; And, in his place, among son and sire. Is John de Clapham, that fierce Esquire, A valiant man, and a name of dread In the ruthless wars of the White and Red; Who dragged Earl Pembroke from Banbury church, And smote off his head on the stones of the porch 1"68
bolton priory.
The 1 griesly sight' can no longer be seen, although the bodies were aaid to be standing upright when the vault was opened in 1854
Before leaving the nave, the tourist should notice the carved wooden screen of Tudor work, which dates from the time of Prior Moon, already mentioned. The roof of the nave is painted in the fashion of the same period—its beams resting on figures of angels ; and the cornice is painted in panels, with flowers and heads much faded.
Coming to theTransepts, the west wall of each transept contains two fine Decorated windows ; that of the S. transept has also a doorway. Here is the tomb of Christopher Wood, Prior in 1483. Both transepts have been divided longitudinally by a stone wall or screen. That of the N. transept is still standing, having two arches (similar to those in the nave), surmounted by two Decorated windows. The ruins of the E. wall of both .may be still traced. The arches which have supported the central tower still remain. " That there was a tower is proved," says Whitaker, "not only from the mention of bells at the Dissolution, when they could have had no other place, but from the pointed roof of the choir."
The Choir is an excellent specimen of the best kind of Decorated architecture. It has neither aisles nor triforium, and is lighted on each side by five lofty windows of three lights, only one of which, unfortunately, retains its exquisite tracery. There are some fragments of tracery still clinging to the arch of the great east window. A very interesting feature of the interior of the choir is the arcade of circular and intersecting arches, stretching along both walls from the aisles of the transepts to the steps of the altar. These arches are in two tiers, and are manifestly older than the present choir. The architect who rebuilt this portion of the church in the fourteenth century has carefully and skilfully incorporated with his work these remains of the original Norman structure. In the choir there are some fragments of sepulchral slabs, one of them supposed to be that of John, Lord Clifford, who was slain at Meaux in the time of Henry V. There were two chapels on the south side of the choir.
The interior dimensions of the church are—total length, 234 feet; length of nave, 88£ ; length of transept, 121£ ; breadth of nave, 41 i ; breadth of choir, 40 i.
Of the Conventual Buildings the traces are small. Tho quadrangular or Cloister Court adjoined the south side of the nave. A-range of lofty buildings stood on its west side, the lower storeyBOLTON PRIORY.
69
being probably tlie storehouse, and the upper the dormitory. The refectory, on the south of the court, from its remains (which are 6mall), seems to have been among the oldest parts of the structure. Another court to the south-east of this, and near the site of the minister's house* contained the kitchens, guests' hall, etc. The east side of the cloister court is formed by the transept, as its north side is by the nave. From the southern extremity of the east side a fine passage led to the Chapter House. Only the entrance arch remains, picturesquely clothed with ivy. Of the chapter house itself only the site has been discovered. It seems to have been octagonal, in the early English style, and about thirty feet in diameter. There are traces of other buildings, but they are unimportant.
On the north side of the priory is the churchyard, classic from the associations which Wordsworth has attached to it in hia " White Doe of Rylstone." Emily Norton,
-" Exalted Emily,
Maid of the blasted family,"
and her doe " most beautiful, clear-white," will always give an interest to the spot; for, says the poet,—
" Most to Bolton's sacred pile On favouring nights she loved to go-; There ranged through cloister, court, and aisle, Attended by the soft-paced doe; Nor feared she in the still moonshine To look upon St. Mary's shrine; Nor on the lonely turf that showed Where Francis slept in his last abode. For that she came ; there oft she sate Forlorn, but not disconsolate : And, when she from the abyss returned Of thought, she neither shrunk nor mourned; Was hagpy that she lived to greet Her mute companion, as it lay In love and pity at her feet.
Most glorious sunset 1 and a ray Survives—the twilight of this day—
* The loveliest little parsonage that ever arose in a maiden's day dream, who hoped one day to be wedded to a young clergyman. Its garden was crimson with roses, its old ivied porch, in a sort of tower, with an ancient escutcheon emblazoned on its little gateway up a few steps, overhung on each hand with drooping masses of wild hops and lady of the bower."—Rev. J. Hart, B.A.70
bolton priory-the strid.
In that fair creature whom the fields Support, and whom the forest shields; Who, having filled a holy place, Partakes, in her degree, Heaven's grace; And bears a memory and a mind Raised far above the law of kind; Haunting the spots with lonely cheer Which her dear mistress once held dear.
But chiefly by that single grave, That one sequestered hillock green, The pensive visitant is seen. There doth the gentle creature lie With those adversities unmoved ; Calm spectacle, by earth and sky In their benignity approved I And aye, methinks, this hoary pile, Subdued by outrage and decay, Looks down upon her with a smile, A gracious smile, that seems to say— ' Thou, thou art not a Child of Time, But Daughter of the Eternal Prime I'"
There are a few old grave-stones in the churchyard, hut none of them are of any particular interest.
Visitors are permitted to wander at their pleasure through the woods of Bolton, except on Sunday. Opposite the Ahbey the Wharfe may be crossed by some romantic stepping-stones.
The Strid is a contraction of the channel of the Wharfe, about two miles above the priory. It receives its name from the ledges of rock by which the torrent is hemmed in, being here so near to each other that it is possible to stride across. The scene is a very striking one. " Either side of the Wharfe," says Dr. Whitaker, " is overhung by solemn woods, from which huge perpendicular masses of grey rock jut out at intervals. . . Here a tributary stream rushes from a waterfall, and bursts through a woody glen to mingle its waters with the Wharfe; there the Wharfe itself is nearly lost in a deep cleft in the rock, and next becomes a hurried flood enclosing a woody island— sometimes it reposes for a moment, and then resumes its native character, lively, irregular, and impetuous." The cleft in the rock, to which the historian of Craven refers, is the Strid, into which the impetuous waters of the stream are hurled with a u deep and solemn roar, like ' the voice of the angry Spirit of the Waters,' heard far above and beneath, amidst the silence of the surrounding woods." It was here that young RomlUi met withbolton priory—barden tower.
71
his melancholy fate. A few lines from Wordsworth's " Force of Prayer," ere we pass on :—
" This striding-place is called The Strid, A name which it took of yore: A thousand years hath it borne that name, And shall a thousand more.
" And hither is young Romilly come, And what may now forbid That he, perhaps for the hundredth time, Shall bound across the Strid ?
" He sprang in glee,—for what cared he That the river was strong, and the rocks were steep ? But the greyhound in the leash hung back, And checked him in his leap.
" The boy is in the arms of Wharfe, And strangled by a merciless force; For never more was young Romilly seen, Till he rose a lifeless corse.
" Now there is stillness in the vale, And long, unspeaking sorrow: Wharfe shall be to pitying hearts A name more sad then Yarrow."
Barden Tower is about three miles above Bolton Prioiy. Its position is highly picturesque, and its associations, though neither very ancient nor warlike, are of a kind thoroughly in accordance with the beauty and sfeclusion of its situation. It is a plain house, in the Elizabethan style, now in ruins, although so late as 1774 it was in good repair. This house was built by Heniy Clifford, " the Shepherd Lord," so named from his having led the lowly life of a shepherd for many years, when deprived of his paternal estate and title. On his property and honours being restored to him in the reign of Henry VII., he erected this mansion, and retired hither to spend the close of his days in peaceful studies. In 1513, however, he was called into public active service, and was present at the battle of Floiden Field.
" But not in wars did he delight; This Clifford wished for worthier might; Nor in broad pomp, or courtly state ; Him his own thoughts did elevate,— Host happy in the shy recess Of Barden's lowly quietness. And choice of studious friends had he Of Bolton's dear fraternity;72
bolton priory,
Who, standing on this old church-tower, In many a calm, propitious hour Perused, with him, the starry sky; Or, in their cells, with him did pry For other lore,—by keen desire Urged to close toil with chemic fire; In quest belike of transmutations, Rich as the mine's most bright creations. But they and their good works are fled."
The Shepherd Lord died in 1523, aged about 70 years. Barden Tower has been a ruin since 1774, and is probably a more picturesque object, as it now stands, than it was in its perfect state. Architecturally, the ruin is uninteresting. The chapel, a building of the same age, attached to the adjoining farm-house, is still used for religious worship.
The valley of the Wharfe above Barden has a good deal to interest the tourist. Simon's Seat, a lofty summit beyond Barden Tower, affords a panoramic view of great extent and beauty, York and Ripon Minsters, and Roseberry Topping, being visible from it on a clear day. Some of the small valleys that here open into Wharfedale contain scenery striking enough to tempt the traveller to turn aside for a little to view them.
Seven miles above Barden is the village of Kilnsey, where there are two inns. A remarkable limestone rock, called Kilnsey Crag, near this village, is often visited. This crag, which is about 160 feet high, and extends nearly half a mile along the valley, is greatly worn at its base, just like cliffs on the sea coast that are continually exposed to the dashing of the waves. There can be no doubt that Wharfedale was once an arm of the sea, and this crag a sea cliff on which the waves broke for ages. Kilnsey was the place to which yearly the flocks of the monks of Fountains Abbey were driven to be Bhorn. " The bleating of the sheep," says Whitaker, " the echoes of the surrounding rocks, the picturesque habits of the monks, the uncouth dress, long beards, and cheerful countenances of the shepherds, the bustle of the morning, and the good oheer of the evening, would, altogether, form a picture and a concert to which nothing in modern appearances or living manners can be supposed to form any parallel." Here the botanist may find Spircea Filipendula, Polemonium cceruleum, and Plantago maritima. From Kilnsey a moorland walk of six miles will bring the tourist to Malham.
Two miles north-west of Kilnsey, and opposite the village ofand upper wharfedale.
73
Hawks wick, there is ail interesting cavern called Dowkabottom Cave. It is situated on a lofty plateau of the Kilnsey range of crags, 1250 feet above the sea, and is of considerable extent. In thip cave a vast quantity of bones was discovered—among them, it is said, the skulls and jaw-bones of wild dogs and wolves, mingled with bones of deer, sheep, oxen, horses, etc. But what is specially curious regarding this cave is the discovery of traces of human habitation. Coins of Trajan, Nerva, Nero, Claudius, Aurelianus Maximus, Conatantine, Constantius, and several other Roman emperors, have been discovered here—many of them clumsy forgeries. Spear heads, fibulae, glass and shell ornaments, and fragments of pottery, have also been found in this cave. On the hill above grows the rare plant Dryas octopetala.
The small village of Arncliffe, two miles farther on from this cave, is situated in the pleasant valley of Littondale, which here joins that of the Wharfe. The old church has been carefully restored.
Kettlewell, about three miles above Kilnsey, is in a wild and romantic part of the valley. It has a modern church, a dissenting chapel, and a couple of inns. Here, or at Buckden, three miles farther on, the pedestrian may find rest and refreshment for the night of a humble but satisfactory kind. In the church in the latter village there are some remains of Norman architecture.
At Kettlewell, a mountain road branches off to the right, leading through Coverdale into Wensleydale. The scenery of this pass, which lies between Great Whernside and Buckden Pike, is very magnificent.
Beyond Buckden, also, there is a romantic mountain pass, affording splendid views, leading by Bishopdale into the same valley.
BOROUGHBRIDGE.
See Aldborouqh and Boroughbridgb.74
BOSTON SPA-BRAMHAM.
BOSTON SPA AND ITS VICINITY1.
Hotels :—Crown, Dolby's, Victoria and Albert, Admiral Eawke, etc.
Half a mile from Thorpe Arch Station, which is 3J- miles from Tadcaster, 18} from Tork, and 10} from Harrogate.
The original name of this charming village was Thorpe Arch, derived from the family of De Arcubus, or De Arches, who came over with the Conqueror, and obtained several estates in this district.
The Spa, which gives this village its importance, was discovered in 1744. It is saline, and has been noticed with approval by Garnet, Munro, and other physicians of note. The spring issues from the foot of a lofty limestone rock on the banks of the river, which are here exceedingly picturesque. There are a pump-room, hot and cold baths, and all the usual means and appliances of similar places.
The village consists mainly of one long street of well-built houses, many of which are let for lodgings. The Church is a respectable modern structure, with a tower at its west end. An educational establishment, called Wharfedale College, has recently been opened here. A fine bridge crosses the Wharfe, and gives pleasing views up and down the stream. In the surrounding district there are numerous handsome residences. The walks in the neighbourhood are delightful; and the place has, altogether, considerable attractions for those who desiderate more quietness and repose than are sometimes to be found in more crowded and fashionable watering-places.
A coach leaves Thorpe Arch station daily for Bramham, passing through the village of Clifford, where there is a neat modern Churchy with tower, nave, aisles, transepts, chancel, and chapels. In this village there is also a Roman Catholic Nunnery, a building of considerable taste, and a large Roman Catholic Chapel. Two flax mills give employment to a considerable number of persons.
Bramham is about three miles from Boston Spa. The Church, the only building of importance, is pleasantly Bituated on the border of the village, and consists of nave, aisles, chancel, and tower (surmounted by a short spire). The tower is the oldestboston spa—bard8et.
75
part of the building. In the upper part of each face it has a round-headed recess, enclosing a pair of circular arches rising from plain cylindrical shafts. There is a handsome pointed doorway on the south side, with a porch in similar, but plainer style. The interior is unimportant.
Bramham College, an institution for the education of young gentlemen, a fine building, in elegant grounds, is in this neighbourhood.
Bramham Park is a mile from the village, and will repay a visit. The mansion is in the Graeco-Italian style, and consists of a centre and wings, with a spacious court in front. It was built in the reign of Queen Anne by Robert, Lord Bingley, who had the honour of entertaining her Majesty here, and received from her a fine original portrait of herself, in acknowledgment of his attention. George IY. once spent two nights here. The portrait of Queen Anne was long preserved in the mansion, along with other valuable paintings; but these, and almost all the objects of interest which the house contained, have been removed since it ceased to be used as a residence. The house has now a melancholy and desolate look. The grounds and gardens, however, are still well kept by the proprietor of the estate, who resides in a handsome mansion in the neighbourhood.
On Bramham Moor, on the south of the Park, there are considerable remains of a Roman road.
Haslewood Hall, which is mid-way between Bramham and Towton, has belonged to the ancestors of the present proprietor since the time of William the Conqueror, with the exception of a short period during the reign of Henry III., when it was pledged to a Jew for £350. Fuller remarks of the Vavasours, to whom the mansion belongs,—" It is observed of this family, that they never married an heir, or buried their wives." The view from Haslewood is very extensive. The cathedrals of York and Lincoln, which are sixty miles apart, are both within sight from the same point. In the chapel are numerous monuments to members of the Vavasour family.
It may also be mentioned here that Aberford, a straggling village about a mile to the south of Haslewood Hall, has the ruins of an ancient castle.
Bardsey. From Bramham Park an agreeable walk of about three miles will bring the tourist to Bardsey. Attention to the cross roads, which will be pointed out by the country people, will76
E0WE8.
here, as elsewhere, materially assist his progress, and lessen his fatigue. The Church of Bardsey is an interesting structure, probably of the time of Henry I., and well deserving of examination-It consists of nave, aisles, chancel, and tower. The entrance is by a Norman doorway, with beak-head ornaments on the outer circle of the arch, and zig-zags on the middle, the inner one being plain and sharp. There is a porch to this doorway, with a pointed arch. The tower has a battlemented top, and is adorned with gargoyles representing grotesque heads and other designs. Its south side has two small windows, divided each into a pair of round-headed lights by a plain Norman pillar. The interior of the church presents some curious features. The north aisle is divided from the nave by three round arches, and the south by three pointed ones. There is a circular arch between the nave and the chanceL In the south wall of the chancel there are three sedilia and a piscina. The floor of the chancel has several old monumental slabs, and on the walls there are some unimportant tablets, and funeral escutcheons of the Fox family, who are large proprietors in this district.
The pedestrian who has visited the places between Boston Spa, or Tadcaster, and the point now reached, may close his day's travels with a walk hence to Harewood, of between four and five miles, through a pleasant country. If he has started early enough, and properly planned his movements from place to place, he may even reach Harewood in time to have a look at the grounds, and perhaps at the house itself, before nightfall. There is a coach once a day between Arthington Station (Leeds Northern line) and Harewood, and vice versd. See Harewood, in the Vicinity of Harrogate.
BOWES.
Inns :—The Unicorn, Rose and Crown.
From Barnard Castle, 4 miles; Darlington, 20; Ttsbay, 38—all by rail
This small but interesting town is now reached by the railway, which passes from Barnard Castle over Stainmoor to Tebay, on the Lancaster and Carlisle line. It possesses considerable claims to attention in its Roman camp and the ruins of its old Norman castle.
That the Roman Station here was called Lavatrae has never been questioned by any antiquarian. It occupies a place on anbowes-roman camp, and castle.
77
important branch of the great north road from York, which turned oflF a little beyond Cataractonium (Catterick), and went by Greta Bridge over Stainmoor to Verterae (Brough), Brovonacae (Kirkby Thore), and Luguvallium (Carlisle). The station, which can be traced on the south side of the town, is rectangular in form, and measures about 500 feet by 400. Many interesting relics of the Romans have been discovered. The remains of baths may be seen at the south-east corner of the camp, and without the vallum. On the enclosure of some common land, a few years ago, an aqueduct was discovered. It had been constructed for the supply of water to the baths from Lever or Laver Pool, distant nearly two miles. Numerous inscriptions have been found here. One may be quoted as a specimen. It narrates the reparation of a bath for the first Thracian cohort by Yirius Lupus, his agent being Valerius Fronto, prefect of horse of the Ala Yettonum.—
dae fortunae virivs lvpvs leg avg pr pr balinevm vi ignis exvst vm coh i thr acvm rest itvit cvran te val fron tone praef eq alae vetto.
The Castle was built by Alan Niger, first Norman Earl of Richmond. It is conjectured by some writers, not without probability, that the materials from which it was constructed were derived from the old Roman fortification. It occupies a prominent position on rising ground, and has been defended by a deep ditch. The only remaining part of this interesting old fortress is a square tower, doubtless the keep of the original structure. The sides measure 75 and 60 feet, and its height is about 53 feet. The walls are 12 feet thick, and have been faced with hewn-stone, though this has been stripped away in some places, leaving the inner grout-work exposed. The east and south sides are the most perfect. Three large round-headed windows, in three sides of the second storey, appear to have lighted78
BOWES CHUBCH-" EDWIN AND EMMA."
the principal apartments. The walls are pierced by arrow elite. Nothing worth repeating is recorded by history or tradition regarding this castle.
The buildings of the village are unimportant. The Church is a humble building of considerable antiquity, consisting of nave, chancel, and transepts, with a bell turret and two bells at the west end. There are in the interior two piscinae, one in the south wall of the chancel, and the other in the north transept. The font is ancient. In the floor of the church there are many early English gravestones, all worn and defaced. Such of these stones as once had brasses have long lost them. In the churchyard is the grave of the two lovers whose touching fate suggested Mallet's beautiful ballad of " Edwin and Emma." Their true names were Rodger Wrightson and Martha Railton. Mallet gives the story with no less accuracy than pathos.
" Far in the windings of a vale, Fast by a sheltering wood, The safe retreat of health and peace, An humble cottage stood.
" There beauteous Emma flourished fair, Beneath a mother's eye ; Whose only wish on earth was now To see her blest, and die.
" Long had she filled each youth with love, Each maiden with despair, And though by all a wonder owned, Yet knew not she was fair.
" Till Edwin came, the pride of swains, A soul devoid of art; And from whose eye, serenely mild, Shone forth the feeling heart."
Edwin's father and sister were bitterly opposed to their love. The poor youth pined away. When he was dying, Emma was allowed to see him, but the cruel sister would hardly allow her a word of farewell. As Emma returned home, she heard the passing bell toll for the death of her lover.
' Just then she reached, with trembling step, Her aged mother's door—
'He's gone I' she cried, ' and I shall see That angel face no more 1BOWES—RET CROSS.
79
"'I feel, I foel this breaking heart Beat high against my aide'— From her white arm down sunk her head : She shivering .sighed, and died."
The lovers were buried on the same day, and in the same grave. A simple but tasteful monument was erected to their memory in 1848, by F. Dinsdale, Esq., LLJD., author of "The Teesdale Glossary," and other works. It is against the west end wall of the church, under the bell turret, where the lovers were buried. The monument bears the following inscription:—
" Rodger Wrightson, Junr., and Martha Railton, both of Bowes, Buried in one grave: He Died in a fever, and upon tolling his passing bell, she cry'd out, My heart is broke, aruL in a Few hours Expired, purely through Love.
March 15, 1714-15.
" Such is the brief and touching Record contained in the parish Register of Burials. It has been handed down by unvarying tradition that the grave was at the west end of the church,
directly beneath the bells. The sad history of these true and faithful lovers forms the subject of Mallet's pathetic ballad of ' Edwin and Emma.' "
A literary association, of which the inhabitants of Bowes are by no means proud, may be mentioned before we conclude our notice of the town. A cheap boarding school here is said to have been the original Dotheboys Hall, described and exposed in " Nicholas Nickleby." It is needless to add that the school did not long survive the publication of Mr. Dickens's work.
Ret Cross, or Rere Cross, between four and five miles west from Bowes, is, to the antiquarian at least, worthy of a visit. Two miles from Bowes is a singular natural bridge over the Greta, called " God's Bridge." It is a rude arch in the limestone rock, sixteen feet in span, and is the common carriage road over the stream.
Key Cross is on the border of the county, on the wild and dreary heights of Stainmoor. On the summit of the pass, where the Roman road crosses Stainmoor, there are the remains of a camp of considerable size and interest. There has been a good deal of speculation as to the origin of the cross set up here ; a not improbable account being, that near the spot William the Conqueror, and Malcolm, King of Scotland, met in arms, but80
BRADFOBD.
wisely resolved to settle their dispute amicably. Accordingly, they set up a stone to mark the boundary of the two countries. Holinshed thus states the conditions on which the kings concluded peace—" That Malcolm should enjoy that part of Northumberland which lies betwixt Tweed, Cumberland, and Stain-more, and doo homage to the Kinge of England for the same. In the midst of Stainmore, there shall be a cross set up, with the Kinge of England's image on the one side, and the Kinge of Scotland's on the other, to signify that one is to march to England and the other to Scotland. This cross was called the Roi-cross ; that is, the Cross of the Kings."
BRADFORD.
Hotels :—The Alexandra, The Victoria (at Great Northern Station), Talbot, George, Trevelyan.
From Leeds 9 miles, from London, 195.
Bradford, one of the most important manufacturing towns in Yorkshire, is finely situated at the union of three extensive valleys. The name, according to antiquarians, is derived from a broad ford over the sfnall stream, a tributary of the Aire, on which it is situated. The town does not seem to have been of any note in ancient times, though the name occurs in some old records. In the civil wars in the time of Charles I., Bradford sided with the Parliament, and twice repulsed a large body of the king's troops from the garrison of Leeds. It was afterwards taken by the Earl of Newcastle. In 1812 occurred the disturbances of the " Luddites," which resulted in the destruction of the newly-introduced machinery in several mills, and in the conviction and execution of seventeen of the rioters. A strike of ten months' duration occurred in 1825, and was productive of the usual unhappy effects. Since that date the history of Bradford has been one of indusLry and prosperity, with occasional but not frequent periods of commercial depression. Since 1832 Bradford has been represented in Parliament by two members.
The increase of this town in population and manufactures, since the beginning of the present century, has been immense, and its resources may be best understood from the fact of its paying income-tax on £9,000,000. The population in 1831 was 43,527; 1851,103,778; 1871,145,827 ; and in 1881 (estimated), 203,544. In the beginning of the century there were only threebradford-the parish church.
81
mil la ; now there are nearly 200. The first steam-engine erected here was in 1798. It was only fifteen horse power. Now they are counted by hundreds, of every power and magnitude. The vast resources of nature which the neighbourhood enjoys, likewise contribute towards the trade and prosperity of the town. Coals and iron are found in abundance, and afford employment to thousands.
Bradford is the metropolis of the wool trade, to which merchants from Huddersfield, Halifax, and all parts of the clothing district resort for the purchase of the raw material. The chief manufactures are of worsted, alpaca, and mohair.
The Parish Church, which is dedicated to St. Peter, first claims the attention of the tourist. It is built in the Perpendicular style. The body of the fabric belongs to the time of Henry VI., but the tower is of a later date. The interior of the church has recently been entirely restored, the improvements including a fine oaken roof in the style of the building. The church contains many monuments, among which may be mentioned one to Abraham Sharpe, a celebrated mathematician, who died in 1742. A monument bearing a personification of Old Age, by Flaxman, erected to a gentleman of the name of Balme, will attract the attention of the visitor. There is also a fine sculptured font, with oak canopy.
The most important public building in the town is the Town Hall, completed in 1873, at a cost of £140,000, a very extensive and attractive edifice, which occupies an area of about 2000 square yards, in the centre of the borough. Its principal front is to Market Street, extending 275 feet in length. The tower, 220 feet high, which rises from behind a lofty gable, is designed after the campanile of the Palazzo Vecchio at Florence, while statues of the English sovereigns adorn the upper front of the building. The grand entrance is the most elaborately decorated portion of the hall, and on the staircase will be seen a fine picture illustrating the legend of the "Wild Boar of the Cliffe Wood." The interior of the edifice is devoted to the offices of the police department, town-council, and borough officials. The council-room, mayor's reception-room, and borough court-room, are planned with great consideration, and fitted up most handsomely. A very large clock, manufactured by Gillett and Bland, Croydon, is placed in the tower, and is supplied with some ingenious appliances. The carillon or musical machine plays every
ft82
bradford-st. george's hall.
day one of twenty-one popular airs. The chimes, which are said to be the largest cast in Europe, consist of thirteen bells, weighing 17 tons 9 cwt. In front of the Town Hall is a statue of the late Sir Titus Salt, of Saltaire.
St. George's Hall is constructed for concerts and public meetings. Its style is Grecian. The interior presents a very line appearance, the hall being 152 feet long by 76 broad In the evening it is lighted by a continuous line of 1800 gas jets.
The other edifices deserving notice are the Exchange, Mechanic f Institute, Bank, the Court House, the Public Library, the Infirmary, Temperance Hall (the first built in the kingdom, erected in 1837), and the Grammar School (where were educated Archbishop Sharp, Dr. Richardson, and Abraham Sharp), and several of minor importance.
In Peel Place stands a fine Statue of Sir Robert Peel, by Behnes. It is of bronze, 11 feet 6 inches high, surmounting a pedestal 13 feet high, on which is cut the simple name Peel. Another memorial of that celebrated statesman, who seems to have been enthusiastically admired by the inhabitants of Bradford, is called Peel Park It contains about 45 acres, adorned with beautiful walks, ornamental waters, artificial terraces, and luxuriant trees ; altogether forming one of the most delightful public places of resort in the kingdom.
The Alexandra Theatre, a handsome and commodious structure, tastefully and beautifully decorated, and is one of the finest of its kind in England.
In the neighbourhood of the town there are three Cemeteries, finely laid out. The Undercliffe cemetery has become a favourite resort of the inhabitants of Bradford, and commands some charming and extensive views.
Airedale Independent College is in the immediate vicinity of the town. There are also near Bradford academical institutions in connection with the Baptists and Wesleyan Methodists.
Saltaire, 4 miles from Bradford, by the side of the Aire, and close upon the Midland Railway, is one of the most remarkable achievements of the enterprise of this manufacturing age. The immense factory, which gives employment to upwards of 3000 persons, and the well-planned and complete little town in which many of the work-people reside, owe their existence to the energy and enterprise of Sir Titus Salt. The Factory is built ofvicinitt of bradford-saltaire.
83
stone, ill the Italian style, and covers an area of about twelve acres. Its main range runs from ea^t to west. It is 550 feet long, 50 wide, 72 high, and consists of six storeys. One great, feature of this establishment is the manufacture of alpaca fabrics ; Sir Titus, who was the first to introduce alpaca wool into the Bradford trade, having carried this branch to a high point of perfection. Besides alpaca, mohair, Russian, Botany, and other wools, and silk, are used in the manufacture of different fabrics, many of which are of great beauty.
The Town, a model of its kind, consists of some hundreds of houses, well laid out. It belongs to Sir Titus Salt, who lets the houseB to his mill-workers on moderate terms.
Saltaire is about three-quarters of a mile from Shipley, another busy suburb of Bradford. The church is a prominently situated and respectable edifice.
Bingley, 2 miles beyond Saltaire by rail, is situated on a fine eminence near the Aire, and consists chiefly of one long street, built partly of brick and partly of stone. The parish had a population of 18,116 at the census of 1871. The principal manufacture is of woollens. The lordship of this place was bestowed by William the Conqueror on one of his followers, but nothing of any importance is recorded regarding the town in former times. A castle existed here two hundred and fifty years ago, on an elevation called the " Bailey Hill," but no traces of it now remain. The church is a plain structure of the time of Henry VIH., modernised in 1710. There are in this town several dissenting chapels and a free grammar school. The neighbourhood is picturesquely wooded.
About a mile distant from Bingley, to the east, is Baildon Hill, a remarkable elevation overlooking the Aire. This hill is 922 feet high. Here there are ancient entrenchments and tumuli.
Bowling, a mile and a half to the south of Bradford, was the head-quarters of the Earl of Newcastle during the siege of Bradford. He resided in the Hall; and there is a tradition^that he was there dissuaded by an apparition from the bloody resolution to which he had come to give the inhabitants of Bradford to the sword. In the part of Bowling known as Laister Dyke, a very neat Gothic church, consisting of chancel, nave, and tower, was consecrated in 1861. Close at .hand are the Bowling Iron Works, whence Government drew many supplies of war material during the Crimean campaign.84
bridlington.
Calverley, distant 3 miles, is interesting as being the scene of " The Yorkshire Tragedy," a play which has been attributed .(it is now agreed incorrectly) to Shakspere. The events on which the tragedy is founded took place at Calverley Hall in 1604. The hall was turned into separate tenements for a number of manufacturers in the early part of the present century.
At Fulneck, in the township of Pudsey, about five miles to the east, is a Moravian settlement, founded about 1748. The chief buildings are the hall, containing a chapel, a school for girls, and minister's dwelling ; a school-house for boys ; a house for single men, another for single women, and another for widows. These buildings are situated on a terrace which commands a good prospect. Here James Montgomery the poet was educated. There are also houses for families. The ehief employment of the inhabitants of this neat village is the woollen manufacture.
BRIDLINGTON.
Hotels.—At Bridlington Quay, Alexandra, Britannia. In the town, Black Lion.
From Scarborough, 22J miles ; Filey, 14; Hull, 30J; York, 53 (by Driffield), or 59} by Seamer junction; London, 204$.
The town of Bridlington, often called Burlington, is pleasantly situated on a gentle acclivity, in the recess of a beautiful bay, and about a mile from the sea shore. The town has been suggested as the site of Prcetorium, the termination of the first iter of Antoninus ; but antiquarians are now pretty generally agreed in giving the preference to Flamborough, if Praetorium is to be placed in this neighbourhood- Dunsley, near Whitby, however, has more votes. The Roman road, leading straight to York, may be traced across the high wolds.
Though denied the dignity of Praetorium., Bridlington can lay claim to considerable antiquity. Its priory, some noble remains of which still survive, dates from the time of Henry I. Here, in 1643, Henrietta Maria, queen of Charles I., landed with arms and ammunition from Holland, purchased with the crown jewels. On that occasion the town was bombarded by a squadron under Batten, the Parliamentary admiral, whom her Majesty had narrowly escaped.
A sea-fight took place off this coast, in 1779, between the Bonhomme Richard, under the command of the noted Paul Jones,bridlington priory.
85
attended by two other vessels, and the British ships Serapis and Countess of Scarborough, in which the Americans were victorious. The Bonhomme Richard lost three hundred men in killed and wounded, and was so disabled that she went to the bottom next day.
Bridlington is the birth-place of William Kent, noted as a painter, an architect, and a landscape gardener. He was born in 1685, and died in 1748. Horace Walpole says of him—" He was a painter, an architect, and the father of modern gardening. In the first character he was below mediocrity ; in the second, he was a restorer of the science ; in the last, an original, and the inventor of an art that realises painting and improves nature. Mahomet imagined an Elysium, but Kent created many."
At the census of 1871, the population of Bridlington was 9662. The town consists chiefly of one long, irregular street, with a number of good houses and shops. The commerce and manufactures of the place are unimportant.- None of the public buildings call for special notice, with the exception of the Priory Church.
Bridlington Priory, of which the only parts now remaining are the nave of the church and the gateway, was founded in 1106, for canons regular of the Augustinian order, by "Walter de Gaunt, son of Gilbert de Gaunt, nephew to William the Conqueror. William de Gaunt and other Norman nobles, gave liberal endowments to the monastery; and we find King Stephen, in the 15th year of his reign, granting various privileges to the canons and friars. The priory was fortified with walls and ditches in 1164, after the plunder of Whitby Abbey by the Danes; and license was obtained about the year 1388 to increase the strength of its defences. Sir George Bipley, the celebrated physician and alchymist, was a canon in this monastery. He died in the year 1490. The most noted of the priors were John de Bridlington, born at Bridlington in 1319, died in 137.7, whose grave was resorted to as a shrine, and was said to be the scene of many miracles ; and William Wode, the last prior, executed at Tyburn in 1537, for taking part in the " Pilgrimage of Grace." At the Dissolution, the clear annual revenue amounted to J547 : 6 : ll£. The greater part of the priory was pulled down in 1539.
The Parish Church, which is dedicated to St. Mary, consists of the nave of the old Priory Church, now converted into a nave and chancel, with aisles. The west front consists of a centre,66
BRIDLINGTON PRIORY.
flanked with towers, which, rise only to the level of the roof ol the nave. The principal entrance, in the centre of this front, is a pointed arch, surmounted by a crocketted pediment. A smaller entrance, in the southern tower, is of the same description ; but that in the north tower, now walled up, is circular, and much older than the others. Above the principal entrance is a large Perpendicular window of eight lights, divided by a transom. This front was considerably restored in 1854. On the north side there is a porch, which from its style appears to belong to the fourteenth century. The great tower with which the church was adorned has long been removed. The east window, which was built in 1861, is in the Decorated style. From these details it will be seen that the architecture is by no means uniform ; yet, notwithstanding incongruities which the ecclesiologist will have no difficulty in pointing out, the effect of the whole is very imposing, and makes one regret that more of this magnificent priory has not survived the inroads of time and the violence of man.
The interior, though possessing no monuments of any interest, is yet well worthy of inspection. The restorations and decorations which the church has received of late years materially enhance the effect produced by the stately proportions of this ancient structure. The nave is divided from its aisles by pointed arches rising from clustered columns. In the chancel there are four great pillars, erected for the support of the central towers, and similar pillars support the western towers. The west window was filled with modern stained glass of great richness and beauty about the year 1854—the cost being defrayed by subscription. Its height is 55 feet, and its breadth 29. The east window, alike the stone work and the painted glass, was the gift of Thomas Greenwood Clayton, Esq., of Wetherby Grange. It is a very tasteful example of the Decorated Gothic order, and consists of seven lights, in two groups of three each (with their appropriate heading and tracery, consisting of three trefoils in as many circles), with the seventh or central light between them. The tracery with which the arch above is filled consists of four small circles with trefoils, enclosed in one large circle. The height of the window is 39 feet 6 inches, and its width 19 feet 6 inches. The subject of the painted glass is the genealogy of our Saviour traced downwards from Jesse. This window was erected" in 1861 by Mr. Clayton in remembrance of his wife,BRIDLINGTON QUAY.
87
who died in 1845, and of his son, who died in 1860. There are some other good windows of stained glass, presented by different individuals ; but these our space will not admit of us noticing. Among the other objects in the interior to which the tourist's attention will be directed by the person who Bhows him the church, are the font, of polished Derbyshire marble ; four ancient books chained to a desk ;* a stone offertory box attached to a pillar in the south aisle ; and an old church collar, fixed to a pillar in the south tower—a curious instrument of ecclesiastical discipline, t There is some ancient oak carving, deserving of notice. The pulpit is modern, of carved oak, in fine accordance with the prevailing style of the church. The length of the interior is 188 feet; the breadth, 68 ; the height, 69.
The Priory Gateway, a very interesting specimen of Pointed architecture, of the time of Richard II., is about 120 yards westward of the church. This massive structure has two arches, the one a carriage-way, and the other for foot-passengers. Both of these entrances have been protected by strong gates, the hooks of which are still attached to the wall. The vaulted roof of the lofty archway is worthy of notice ; the ribs are of freestone, and the angular compartments of chalk. The cross-springers rest on four sculptured figures in monastic habits. A large room over the gate-way is used as the town-hall. There are several other apartments in this old pile, one of which, on the ground floor, has probably been used as a dungeon.
The foundations of the walls with which the priory was fortified in 1164 can still be traced about a quarter of a mile from the church. The field path leading to the quay passes through the eastern boundary. From this path the site of the priory fish-ponds, and the remains of the mounds used as archery butts, may also be seen.
Bridlington Quay, about a mile from the town, is a favourite sea-coast resort. It constitutes of itself a small but handsome town ; and its piers, fine sands, cliffs, sea-views, and mineral water are the attractions it holds out. The mineral spring is a
* These curious books are worthy the antiquarian's inspection. They are Jewell's " Controversial Works," Ed. 1611'; Heylin's " Ecclesia Vindicata," Ed. 1681; Hooker's " Ecclesiastical Politie," Ed. 1682 ; and Comber's " Companion to the Temple," Ed. 1684.
t Only one pther stone offertory box is known to exist in England—that at the tomb of Edward II., in Gloucester Cathedral. The collar mentioned above appears to be unique.88
bridlington quay.
chalybeate, resembling the waters of Scarborough and Cheltenham, but with perhaps less of salts in its ingredients.
Christ Church is a handsome building, and there is another at the north end of the promenade. There are also several dissenting places of worship, some of them very elegant structures.
Within the last few years the Local Board have carried out extensive improvements at the quay by the erection of handsome terraces on ground formerly occupied by dilapidated buildings, while on the beach a handsome parade has been formed with ornamental gardens, where a band performs, and the sea-wall extended northwards past the Alexandra Hotel.
The Victoria Rooms adjoining, consist of a ball, concert, and promenade saloon ; billiard-room, news-room, freemasons' lodge, theatrical room, and a temporary Catholic chapel. They are beautifully situated, commanding a fine view of the expansive bay, Flamborough Head, and the sands.
The Alexandra, a large and fashionable hotel, erected in 1866, possesses an imposing appearance, and has well laid out ornamental grounds in front extending to the sea-shore.
The sands are of great extent and beauty on both the north and Bouth sides of the harbour, being dry, firm, and broad, and affords excellent driving, bathing, and riding ground.
The beautiful bay and the lofty chalk cliffs to the north forming a bold promontory running out into the sea, and terminating in Flamborough Head, with its far-famed caves and lighthouse, are also objects of admiration and interest. It is a beautiful sight to see a fleet of wind-bound vessels congregated in the bay, immediately opposite the town, especially at night, when the vessels are lighted up. Not unfrequently 400 to 500 sail of vessels are to be seen anchored in the bay at one time.
The town is supplied with excellent water from the Chalk, the streets and houses are lighted with gas, and the public streets are broad and well-paved, clean, and agreeable.
Steamers leave the quay at certain times for Scarborough and Whitby, and occasionally for Hornsea ; and during the season the trip round Flamborough Head is commonly made daily by one or more steamers. Boats can always be had for short trips, from 5s. upwards—the charge being ruled by the length of time they are out and the number of the party. The sail round Flamborough Head is not always accomplished without clanger.
Rudstone, a small village five miles inland from Bridlington,vicinity op bridlington quay—boynton.	89
is deserving of notice, on account of a tall monolith. This stone is 29 feet above the ground, higher than any of those at Borough-bridge, and is said to be very deeply rooted in the soil. The cause of its erection is unknown. Many regard it as a relict of the Druids ; while it is not impossible that it may have been raised by the Saxons. The name of the village is perhaps derived from it—Rood-stone meaning " stone of the holy cross," —a derivation which would infer, either that it was reared by the Saxons, or that they gave to the relict of idolatrous worship an association with their own purer faith. A new church of a very elegant Gothic design was erected here in 1861.
It is in this neighbourhood that those intermittent streams called the Gypseys* chiefly take their rise. At certain periods, particularly after long rains, they send forth water in considerable volume, while at others they are perfectly dry. The principal gypsey takes its rise at Wold Newton, and enters the sea at Bridlington harbour. Another occasionally bursts forth at Kilham.
A delightful walk of about 2 miles may be taken from the quay, along the cliff, to the village of Sewerby. Here there is a beautiful new Church, built in the richest Norman style, consisting of nave, chancel, north transept, and tower (surmounted by a small spire). All the windows are filled with stained glass, excellent in design and pure in colour. About two miles beyond the village, is the Danes' Dyke. (See Flamborough.)
About three miles south-west of Bridlington is Carnaby, with an interesting Church dedicated to St. John the Baptist. It consists of a nave, south aisle, and chancel. The greater portion of the edifice is of brick work. The font is ancient and curiously carved. Five octagonal pillars divide the aisle and nave. In the chancel a horizontal slab records the death of " Mr. Francis Yickerman, Esq., a lover of learning and a pattern of piety, a.d. 1616." The tower is an excellent specimen of the Perpendicular style.
Burton Agnes, the residence of Sir Henry Boynton, is about three miles from Carnaby. The Hall, an ancient princely mansion, is of ornamented brickwork, and contains many curious carvings in wood and alabaster; one of which, in the dining-room, is a magnificent specimen of ancient carving in oak. The chancel roof of the Church, which is dedicated to St. Martin, is of dark stained oak, beautiful and chaste. On each side are * The g is sounded hard.90
BYLAND ABBEY.
richly carved stalls, and tastefully arranged encaustic tiles ornament the floor. The west window contains the armorial bearinga of the Boyntons, and other fine specimens of stained glass. A handsome alabaster sarcophagus, in memory of Sir Walter Griffith, supports the recumbent effigies of a knight in armour and a lady. The sides are ornamented with seven niches each, and the ends with two each, containing a variety of figures, several crowned and one mitred.
Boynton, the seat of the ancient family of Strickland, is situated in a pleasant and luxuriant vale, about three miles from Bridlington. The surrounding country is adorned with numerous woods, containing some of the oldest and largest firs in the kingdom. In commenting upon the ancient distich—'
" Hops and turkeys, carps and beer. Came to England all in one year."
Miss Agnes Strickland, in her " Queens of England," observes, " The rhyme is right enough regarding turkeys, since they were first brought from North America by William Strickland, the lieutenant to Sebastian Cabot, in the expedition of discovery he undertook under the patronage of Henry VIII. William Strickland was the founder of the Boynton branch of his paternal house ; he was granted new armorial bearings, in remembrance of his American discoveries, by the style of Strykeland of Boynton-on-the-Wold, Yorkshire, and assumed the turkey for his crest, instead of the warlike holly of the elder line." He was the first baronet, and died in 1673. A fine portrait of him is still in good preservation at the Hall; and the Church contains an old monument to his memory.
The neighbourhood of Bridlington possesses numerous tumuli, minerals, fossils, and other objects of interest to the antiquarian.
BYLAND ABBEY.
From Coxwold Station, 2 miles. Coxwold- from York, 22 miles ; from Thirsk, 12 ; from Malton, 17.
Byland Abbey is reached from the interesting village of Coxwold (which see) by a pleasant walk of two miles. Its distance from Easingwold is about six miles. The remains of this abbey are extensive and magnificent. Its situation is romantic, and the ivy with which it is in parts clothed adda to its picturesqueness.BYLA3TD ABBEY.
91
The Cistercian monks, who settled here in 1177, and erected a noble church and conventual buildings, had previously experienced more than the usual share of vicissitudes. At one time it was an incursion of the Scots which caused them to change their residence ; at another it was the sound of the bells of their brethren of Rievaulx, which were much too near; and a third time they removed on sesthetical grounds, taking up their iinal abode on the site of the present abbey. The site was. given to them by Roger de Mowbray, a bold crusader, who retired hither in his old age, and was buried in the chapter house, with a sword carved on his tomb. Here, too, Wymund, the warrior-bishop of the Isle of Man, found an asylum in his closing years. Being defeated uid taken prisoner in one of his maumding expeditions by a brother bishop, his eyes were put out by order of the victor. After being confined for some time, he was permitted to retire to this abbey; and he is said to have derived some comfort, in his blindness, from relating to his monkish auditors the story of his numerous exploits. A battle was fought in the neighbourhood of Byland Abbey, in 1322, between the Scots, under Robert Bruce, and the English, under Edward II., in which the latter were completely defeated. There is no mention of any injury being done to the monastery on this occasion. At the time oi the Dissolution, the gross revenue of this abbey was <£295 : 5 : 4. The monks were in possession of 516 ounces of plate. The site was granted by Henry VIII. to Sir William Pickering ; subsequently it came into the possession of the family of Stapylton, the present owners.
The principal ruins are those of the church. The most important portion is the west front. It has three doorways, all different; that on the north being pointed, the centre one a trefoil, and the south a semicircle. Above the central doorway is a range of nine lancet arches, three of which are windows. Above these there has been a grand circular window, of larger diameter than that in the south transept of York Minster. Scarcely half of the outer circle of this fine window remains. An octagonal shaft with a pinnacle is the only part of the building which retains its original height. The north side of the nave, transept, and chancel have also important remains. The round-headed lights with which these portions of the church are pierced, from the purity of the very early English style which they exhibit, increase the regret which one feels at this interest-92
CASTLE HOWARD.
ing ruin not having received the care and attention which it deserves. The antiquarian tourist may be able from the broken lines of wall to form some conjecture as to general character of the buildings.
The old gateway of the abbey stands at a short distance from the ruins, on the road from Byland to Kilburn.
Some of the houses in the village have been built with the spoils of the monastery. There is a good deal of attractive scenery in the neighbourhood. Half a mile distant is the pretty village of "Wass, one of Major Stapylton's seats. Tliis is an admirable station for the botanist. On Wass Moor, in spring 1869, the Rev. Canon Green well discovered an accumulation of ancient incised stones.
From Byland the tourist may proceed to Helmsley; or, he may gain the railway at Ampleforth. A little beyond Byland Abbey the road divides into two branches, that to the left leading through a defile of the Hambleton Hills to Helmsley, and that to the right leading to Ampleforth. The road to Helmsley affords, as it ascends, a beautiful view of the vale of Mowbray; and on the other side it gives an extensive prospect of the Yorkshire moors.
CASTLE HOWARD.
Hotel.—Castle Howard, at entrance to Park. From Castle Howard station, 3 miles. The station is 16} miles from York; 5£ from Mai ton ; and 26J from Scarborough.
Castle Howard, the magnificent seat of the Earl of Carlisle, is reached by a pleasant walk or drive of about three miles from the station of the same name, on the York and Scarborough Railway. In a spirit of liberality which entitles him to the gratitude of the public, the proprietor of this mansion allows its grounds and its treasures of art to be inspected daily by visitors. No private mansion in Yorkshire, and few in the kingdom, can present 60 much "to interest and delight the intelligent tourist.
This mansion was erected in 1702, by the Right Hon. Charles Howard, Earl of Carlisle, on the site of the old castle of Hinder-skelf, which was destroyed by an accidental fire. Her Majesty Queen Victoria and the Prince Consort, accompanied by the Prince of Wales, the Princess Royal, Princess Alice, and Prince Alfred, passed two nights here in the year 1850. Each of them planted a tree in Lady Mary Howard's garden, in memory of the Wait.CASTLE HOWARD--THE PRINCIPAL APARTMENTS.	93
The design of Castle Howard was by Sir John Vanbrugh, afterwards the architect of Blenheim House, Oxfordshire—a building which it much resembles. The exterior is very magnificent. The south front is 323 feet in length, and consists of a centre and two wings. The centre has a pediment and entablature, supported by fluted Corinthian pilasters, and is approached by a broad flight of steps. The north front has also a centre of the Corinthian order, with a cupola surmounting it, and two wings, the west one being after a design by Sir James Bobinson, and differing in style from that on the east.
The limits of this work do not admit of a detailed notice of all the objects of interest in the interior of this princely mansion, as they present themselves to the view of the visitor in a survey of the different apartments. The following description will, however, embrace the principal features of the interior, as well as a list of the most celebrated and interesting paintings, and other objects of art, with which the mansion is adorned.
The Great Hall is 35 feet square, and 60 high, or 100 feet high to the centre of the cupola. The cupola is painted with the Fall of Phaeton, by Antonio Pellegrini; and on the walls are representations of the Four Seasons, the Twelve Signs of the Zodiac, and various classical designs by the same artist. Here there are various statues and busts; among them, Augustus, Marcus Aurelius, Sabina, Julia Ma in m sea, Bacchus, Ceres, Paris, etc.
The State Bed-Room,, 26 feet by 22, is hung with Brussels tapestry, after designs of Teniers. It has a very elegant chimney-piece, and decorations in precious stones and antique marbles.
The Dining-Room, 27 feet by 23, in addition to its paintings (which will receive a general notice in conjunction with those in the other apartments), is adorned with busts of Marcus Aurelius and a Bacchanal; bronzes of Brutus, Cassius, and Laocoon ; a beautiful urn of green porphyry ; and slabs of Silician jasper. The chimney-piece is of Sienna marble.
The Saloon is 34 feet by 24. It contains several fine pictures and sculptures ; among the latter, Jupiter, Pallas, Cupid, Commodus, and Domitian. The ceiling is painted with a representation of Aurora.
The Drawing-Room, 27 feet by 23, is adorned with tapestry from the designs of Rubens, slabs of alabaster and porphyry,94
CASTLE HOWARD-THE PRINCIPAL APARTMENTS.
antique, bronzes, and an ancient bust brought from Rome by the late Earl of Carlisle.
The Museum, which is about 24 feet square, contains numerous objects calculated to interest the. antiquarian. Ancient funeral urns, groups of sculpture, and busts ; mosaic work, a basso-relievo of Victory, antique marble slabs, inlaid, and other objects, will severally attract attention. A poetical inscription on a tablet above a small cylindrical altar bids the visitor—
"Pass not this ancient altar with disdain, 'Twas once in Delphi's sacred temple reared."
Here also may be seen a splendid casket, or wine-cooler, presented, in 1841, to the present Earl, then Lord Morpeth, by his friends and supporters in the West Riding. It is made of bog-oak, mounted in massive silver, and cost a thousand guineas. A monster address, 400 feet long, presented to Lord Carlisle on his retiring from the office of Chief Secretary for Ireland, is also kept here.
The Antique Gallery, which is 160 feet long, and 20 broad, has a large number of rare and curious antique marble slabs. There are also two tables of Egyptian granite in this apartment. A small gilt and inlaid statue, said to have been found in the wall of Severus, is worthy of notice. This room also contains, besides pictures, some fine tapestry, and a collection of valuable books.
The foregoing are the principal apartments in the suite of rooms usually shewn to the public, some of the less important ones having been passed over. Several beautiful apartments, not generally open to inspection, deserve a word of notice in this rapid survey. The Saloon above stairs (33 feet by 26), is adorned with four splendid tables, two of them of Egyptian granite, and the others jaune antique. The roof is painted with subjects from the Trojan war. The Blue Drawing Room, 28 feet by 20, has a mosaic floor, a curious cabinet of precious stones, an urn of green porphyry, two tables of verd antique, one of nero bianco, and several busts and paintings. The Green Damask Room, 27 feet by 22, is also rich in marbles and rare stones j as are the Yellow, Silver, and Blue Silk Bed-Rooms.
The Paintings. The collection of pictures at Castle Howard is large and valuable. The late Earl of Carlisle, as is well known, was one of the three chief purchasers of the OrleansCASTLE HOWARD-THE PAINTINGS.
3b
Gallery ; and some of the paintings which he secured from that celebrated collection are regarded as almost of inestimable value. The most noted of these paintings are the "Three Marys" of Annibale Caracci ; the " Entombment," by Ludovico Caracci; and the " Adoration of the Kings," by Mabeuse. Dr. Waagen, in his " Treasures of Art in Great Britain," remarks that " the chief strength of the collection lies in capital works of the Caracci and their scholars, as well as in Flemish pictures of the time of Rubens." The following list, arranged alphabetically, comprises the best pictures. Full catalogues can be obtained, if desired, at Castle Howard.
Aiteman.—Portraits of the first three Earls of Carlisle.
Giacomo Bassano.—Portrait of his Wife, " painted," says Waagen, "with vulgar and disagreeable truth."
Sir George Beaumont.—View of Conway Castle.
Giovanni Bellini.—The Circumcision. A picture of which many copies exist. It is regarded as a fine specimen of the great instructor of Titian and Giorgione.
Ferdinand Bol.—A Boy holding a goblet.
Paul Brill.—The Campagna from Tivoli, a fine work of the latter period of this great master.
Burgoniani.—Two spirited battle-pieces.
Canaletto.—A large view of Venice—in every respect one of his best works. There are numerous other paintings by this master, some of them very excellent.
Agostino Caracci.—The Virgin and Infant Christ presenting the cross to St. John. A small picture, exquisitely finished.
Annibale Caracci.—The Three Marys. The Virgin has fainted with the dead body of Christ on her lap; the elder Mary is violently affected with grief and terror; while Mary Magdalene expresses the most passionate and heart-rending woe. This noble picture is universally allowed to be entitled to its high reputation. Other pictures by this master will be observed—two large landscapes; a portrait of himself; and an animated and humorous picture of a boy and girl teasing a cat.
Ludovico Caracci.—The Entombment of Christ. A very noble picture, both in composition and execution. Waagen thinks the shadows too dark.
Collins. —A Sea Piece.
Domenichvno.—St. John the Evangelist. This is one of the most indisputable and admirable pictures of Domenichino existing.
Domenico Feti.—Portrait of a Man—perhaps himself.
Gainsborough.—Sketch of a Servant Maid; Portrait of Isabella Byron, second wife to the fourth Earl of Carlisle.
Gale.—Battle of the Boyne.
Orazio GentUeschi (or Eonthorst).—The Finding of Moses.
Guercino.—Tancred and Erminia. Carefully painted in the usual style of that master.
EoVbevn.—Three portraits.
Hudson.—Portrait of Henry, fourth Earl of Carlisle.
Cornelias Jansens.—Several portraits, one that of "Belted Will."
Jennet.—Numerous-interesting French historical portraits96
CASTLE HOWARD-THE PAINTINGS.
Sir Thomas Lawrence.—Portraits—Duke of Devonshire, and sixth Earl of Carlisle,
Sir Peter Lely.— Portraits, the most important of which ar« those of James Duke of York, afterwards James II.; Jocelyn Percy, Earl of Northumberland; and the Duchess of Richmond.
Mabeuse.—The Adoration of the Kings of the East. This admirable painting is about six feet high, by fire wide, and contains thirty important figures. It is in as line a state of preservation as if it had been painted yesterday. The name of the painter,Jan Qossart," is inscribed on it (he is only known now by that of his native town Maubeuge). It is agreed that this picture is not only the master-piece of Mabeuse, but one of the very best specimens of the whole early Netherlandish school.
Pierre Migjiard.—Portrait of Des Cartes.
Sir Anthony Moore.—Portrait of Queen Mary (" Bloody Mary").
Rembrandt.—His own Head; Portrait of an old Man; and Isaac going to ba sacrificed.
Sir Joshua Reynolds.—Portraits of several Earls of Carlisle, and members of the family; and a portrait of Omai, a native of Otaheite, who was brought to England by Captain Cook. The latter is regarded as one of Sir Joshua's best pictures.
Saivator Rosa.—St. John with the Dove; " surprisingly noble," says Dr. Waagen, " in tho expression, and unusually clear and warm in the colour;" Diogenes and Alexander; Mahomet; a Trial.
Rubens.—Portrait, in his best style, of Thomas Howard, Earl of Arundel; Herodla*, with the Head of John the Baptist.
Saracino.—Death of the Virgin. A good altar-piece for the chapel of the mansion.
Sttibbs.—Portrait of a favourite Horse.
Tintoretto—The Nativity; portraits of two Dukes of Ferrara; and two landscapes.
Titian.—Butcher's Dog and three Cats, a powerful picture ; Philip II. of Spain; portrait of himself.
Vanderuelde.—A Sea Piece.
Vandyck.—Portrait of Frans Snyders the painter. One of Yandyck's best pictures. There are several other portraits by Vandyck in this collection.
Velasquez.—Portrait of Mariana of Austria, queen of Spain, mother of Charles IL ; portrait of a Moor; Dogs snarling.
Paul Veronese.—Head of Sappho.
Westall.—Landscape ; and Eloisa.
Williams.—Several Italian views.
Peter Wouvermans.—Horse Fair; and Farrier's Shop.
Zucchero. —Portrait of Thomas, fourth Duke of Norfolk, beheaded by QueeD Elizabeth for a conspiracy in favour of Mary Queen of Scots ; and a portrait of the Earl of Suffolk.
In addition to numerous paintings by artists of less celebrity than those quoted above, there is a considerable number of copies after noted masters, and of original pictures whose authors are unknown. Many of these will reward an attentive examination.* The principal statues and other objects of art in the variouB apartments have already been referred to. Many fine 6tatues will be noticed in a survey of the grounds.castle howard-the grounds.
S7
The Gardens and Pleasure Grounds are very extensive, and are laid out with much beauty and taste. The Gardens occupy an area of twelve acres, and are surrounded by a wall upwards of twelve feet in height. There are numerous hothouses in which the choicest pines and grapes are produced ; and a green-house or conservatory, sixty feet long by fifteen broad, contains a fine collection of the most- rare and valuable plants.
The Pleasure Grounds present many charming combinations of lawnj wood, and water; while statues and ornamental buildings are tastefully placed in various positions. In the gravel walk contiguous to the garden wall, on the north side, the tourist will pause to read a poetical inscription on a square pedestal near the rosary, written by the late Earl when a student at Oxford in 1821, having for its theme Psestum and its "twice-blowing roses." Next, the great antique boar, which was brought from Florence by the fifth Earl, arrests attention. It is regarded as an admirablaipiece of sculpture. From this place the vista down an avenue of stately lime-trees is exceedingly fine. On the lawn near the house, and along the gravel and terrace walks, are a number of classical statues, including Jason and the Golden Fleece, Pluto and Proserpine, Midas, Apollo, Hercules and Antaeus wrestling, Silenus and Bacchus, etc. One walk conducts to the Raywood, at the entrance to which is an irrn with figures, representing the Sacrifice of Iphigenia. This wood contains several large oaks, and a beech-tree twenty feet in circumference. Here there is a Temple of Venus, with a statue of the goddess. In other parts of the wood are statues of Flora, an old slave, and a Highland shepherd. The terrace walk which branches off from that leading to the Raywood, conducts to the Ionic Temple, or Temple of Diana, a graceful building with four fronts. The cornices of the doorways are supported by Ionic columns of black and yellow marble. Niches over the door contain busts of Vespasian, Faustina, Trajan, and Sabina. The flooring is of elegant mosaic work ; and the temple is surmounted with a fine dome. Statues, representing Grace, Faith, Hope, and Charity, adorn the exterior. Beautiful views of the grounds and of the distant country are obtained from this temple. About a quarter of a mile from the Ionic temple is the Mausoleum of the Earls of Carlisle, a circular building, crowned with a dome, and surrounded with a cplonnade of twenty-one Roman Doric pillars. It commands a fine view of the mansion, with the pleasure
h98
CASTLE HOWAHD—CAWOOD.
grounds, temple of Diana, serpentine river, anil bridge. The Obelisk in honour of the Duke of Marlborough, and the Pyramid to the memory of William, Lord Howard, third son of Thomas, Duke of Norfolk, deserve notice. The park is stocked with deer. The short-horned cattle of Castle Howard have long been celebrated.
In a line with the southern end of the long avenue stands the monument erected (1867-9) by public subscription to the late (seventh) Earl of Carlisle, a nobleman whose private and public life won for him universal admiration. It consists of a Grecian column 110 feet high, entwined with a laurel-wreath and resting on a platform with a flight of steps on one side. On the top is a metal urn with gilded flames, " symbolic either of the brilliancy of his eloquence and the fire of his poetic genius, or of the fervid charity which for ever glowed in his heart and shone in his countenance." * The monument is two miles from the Barton Hill station, and three from Kirkham or Castle Howard stations, and stands on the summit of Bulmer Hill, one of the highest of the Howardian range. The site is well chosen, and commands a varied and extensive prospect.
CAWOOD.
Inns :—The\TeUy Sailor, Anchor, etc.
From York, 10 miles; Bolton Percy Station, 4; Ulleskelf Station, 4 ;
Selby, about 6.
A visit to Cawood may conveniently form part of an excursion from York to Bolton Percy, and thence to Selby,t or vice versA, the distance to be walked being nine or ten miles. This small market town, pleasantly situated on the Ouse, possesses the remains of a palace, formerly one of the most magnificent of the residences of the Archbishops of York. A castle is said to have been built here about the year 920, by King Athelstane, who presented it to the see of York, to which it remained attached as
* Speech of E. V. Harcourt, Esq., at inauguration.
| See an account of this route, as far as Cawood, under Bolton Perot, in the Vicinity of York.CAWOOD.
99
a residence till the period of its demolition. The structure, however, of which the gateway tower now remaining formed a part, was erected in the reign of Henry VI., by Archbishop Bowet, and his successor, Archbishop Kempe.
There is not, we believe, any description extant of the Castle of Cawood in its perfect state. Leland notices it thus :—" Cawood, a veiy fair castle, longith to the Archbishops of York ; and therfi is a pretty village." Camden's notice of it is equally brief.
The only remains of the castle are the Gateway Tower, already alluded to, and a brick building which seems to have been a Chapel. The tower is square, with buttresses at the angles. There are two entrances through it—one for carriages, and the other for foot-passengers. On a broad filleting above the entrance are eleven mutilated shields of arms. Above this filleting is a projecting window of three lights. In the apartment which this window lightens, the archbishop's courts' leet for the manor of Cawood are regularly held thrice a year. The upper storey has a window of two trefoil-headed lights, under a square canopy. A modern farm-house joins the tower on the left. The chapel is on the other side, and is used as a barn. Its south wall is flanked by some buttresses, and pierced by narrow windows ; but there is nothing about it to attract particular attention.
The history of Cawood presents several facts of interest. Its chief associations are connected with the downfall of the great Cardinal "Wolsey.* It was here that Wolsey began to understand
" How wretched Is that poor man that hangs on princes' favours."
He was arrested at Cawood by the Earl of Northumberland, who had instructions to hand him over as prisoner to the Earl of Shrewsbury. Wolsey remained at Sheffield Manor-house for sixteen days, during which Shrewsbury treated him more as a guest than a prisoner. Notwithstanding his being seized with a dangerous illness, he was hurried on towards London, to take his trial for treason.
"At last, with easy roads, he came to Leicester, Lodged in the abbey; where the reverend abbot, With all his convent, honourably received him;
* In the field adjoining the castle stands a very old Spanish chestnut tree, said to have been planted by the Cardinal.100
CAWOOD—CONI8BOROUGH CASTLE.
To whom he gave these words :—0 father abbot. An old man, broken with the storms of state, Ic come to lay his weary bones among ye ; Give him a little earth for charily ! So vent to bed: where eagerly his sickness Pursued him still; and, three nights after thi°, About the hour of eight (which he himself Foretold would be his last), full of repentance, Continual meditations, tears, and sorrows, He gave his honours to the world again, His blessed part to Heaven, and slept in peace."
Two arch.bish.ops of York died here in 1628—Tobias Matthew, a celebrated extempore preacher; and George Montaigne, a native of Cawood, and son of a poor farmer there. In 1642, the castle was garrisoned for Charles I. After being held for two years, it was surrendered to the Parliamentarians, who subsequently dismantled it.
The Church, is well situated and interesting. It consists of nave, aisles, and chancel, with a square tower with battlements and pinnacles at the west end. There is a piscina in the south wall of the chanceL The principal monument in the interior is that to the memory of Archbishop Montaigne, already mentioned. In design it resembles that of Shakspere at Strat-ford-on-Avon.
A May-pole still stands at Cawood, though only as a memorial of old customs that have passed away.
From Cawood the tourist may proceed by a pleasant road to Selby, a distance of about five miles. On the way he passes through Wistow, a picturesque hamlet of some 800 inhabitants. It has a large and rather interesting Church, somewhat like that of Bolton Percy. There are remains of old monuments built into the wall; and the windows contain some scraps of old painted glass.
CONISBOROUGH CASTLE.
Near Conisborough Station, 5 miles from Doncaster. Inns.—Red Lion, Star.
" There are few more beautiful or striking scenes in England," says Sir "Walter Scott, " than are presented by the vicinity of this ancient Saxon fortress. The soft and gentle River Don * sweeps through an amphitheatre in which cultivation is richly blended with woodland, and on a mount ascending from the
* It was then comparatively free from the pollutions of Sheffield and Botherham.CONIBBOROUGH CASTLE.	101
river, well defended by walls and ditches, rises this ancient edifice, which, as its Saxon names implies, was, previous to the
KEEP OF CONISBOROUQH CASTLE.
Conquest, a royal residence of the kings of England. The distant appearance of this huge building is as interesting to the lovers of the picturesque, as the interior of the castle is to the eager antiquary, whose imagination it carries back to the days of the Heptarchy."
Antiquaries are not quite agreed as to the origin of this interesting ruin. It has even been referred to the days of the British queen Cartismandua by one class of antiquaries ; while another would ascribe it to the Norman Earls of Warren. We102
CONISBOROUGH CASTLE-THE KEEP.
believe, however, that the true date of its erection lies between these extremes, and that Scott is right when he refers the inner keep to the Saxons, and the outer walls to the Normans. The history of the castle presents no features of general interest. Conisborough will probably be more interesting to the tourist from its being the scene of some of the incidents in " Ivanhoe," than on any other account. This was Athelstane's residence, and it was here that the noble Saxon re-appeared to banquet at his own funeral. (See chapters xlii. and xliii.)
The castle is situated on a picturesquely wooded natural eminence, and must have been a place of considerable strength in early times. The entrance to the area of the castle has been
SECTION OF CONISBOROUGH KEEP.
carefully planned, with a view to -its effectual defence. The outer wall has been strengthened with several round towers andCOn 1SB0R0UG-H CASTLE-THE KEEP
103
has had some rude apartments built to it The keep itself is about eighty-six feet high. It is cylindrical in form, and is propped or defended by six huge square buttresses, which rise to its entire height. The masonry is compact and good; and the base of the keep is wider than the part above, evidently for the purpose of securing greater strength and stability. There is only one entrance to the interior, and that is by a small door reached by a steep flight of thirty-three stone steps. Entering the keep, the visitor traverses a passage through the wall, which is here fifteen feet thick. By a flight of steps on the right hand, the principal apartment may be reached. The apartment is circular, comprising the whole area enclosed by the walls of the keep. Its diameter is twenty-two feet. The section on the preceding page will serve to make our account more intelligible. There seems to be no provision for heat or light here. Mr. King, in his Munimenta Antiqua, is of opinion that what little light reached this apartment was derived from a circular hole in the centre of the roof, which was provided for in the laying of the beams and stone trusses. Dismal though this apartment is, there is one below it much worse. By a circular aperture in the floor, the tourist can look down into this cellar or dungeon, or, if he is sufficiently curious and adventurous, may descend to examine it. It is spacious, and has a vaulted stone roof. The only entrance is from the aperture just mentioned, which is about six feet in diameter. In the centre of this cellar or dungeon, there is a well of some depth, but destitute of water.
The floors of the apartments above that one which we have described have been destroyed; ahd as there is no roof over all, the interior of the keep is like a circular tube open to the heavens. These apartments, which are two in number, are circular, like the one below, but they widen in ascending ; that on the second storey being two feet more in diameter than the ground floor, and that on the third story being proportionally wider than the apartment below it. This additional width is owing to the setting in of the walls for laying the floors. The second floor is reached by a flight of twenty-five steps, which follow the curvature of the wall. This apartment has a noble fire-place, about nine feet wide, with a triple pillar on each side, having Norman capitals. Passing along the benching of the wall we come to a doorway, from which is the ascent to a retiring closet in one of the buttresses. Beyond this is a small104
CONISBOROUGH CASTLE—THE CHAPEL.
chamber formed in the circular part of the wall, with a stone bench running round three of its sides. Here there is the largest window in the castle, though small indeed. This little apartment would probably be a favourite resort of the Lord and Lady of Conisborough when they had the leisure and the inclination for quiet social converse ; as it is undoubtedly the most cheerful
CHAPEL IN CONTSBOROTJGH CASTLE.
part of the building, and affords a pleasant prospect towards Crookhill and Clifton.
A flight of thirty-four steps leads to the next storey. The apartment here is similar to the last, but somewhat wider, for the reason already given. Jts details are much the same asCONISBOROUGH CASTLE-COXWOLD.
105
those of the room below. From this apartment the tourist roaches the Chapel or Oratory, of which we give an engraving. This is one of the most interesting parts of the castle. It is formed in the thickness of the wall and one of the buttresses, and is beyond all doubt an integral part of the original design. It is an irregular hexagon, twelve feet in length, and in breadth eight feet in the middle, and six at each end. The roof, which is about sixteen feet high, has two pairs of cross arches springing from six circular columns. A narrow loophole serves for an east window, and a lavatory and piscina will be observed in the wall on each side. A doorway on the left of the entrance to this chapel conducts into a small apartment, also lighted by a loophole, probably used as a kind of vestry.
There has been another circular apartment similar to those already described. The steps leading to this may be seen ; but the circular part of the wall above has been broken down, all that remains being the tops of the six buttresses, which rise to a height of about nine feet above the level of the floor of the upper apartment.
There are the remains of a mound near the castle wall. This is said to be the tomb of Hengist.
The Village of Conisborough is pleasantly situated, and well built. The church is of considerable antiquity. A Norman monumental stone, a mutilated statue of a knight, a font, and several monuments, form the objects of interest which it contains. Of late years it has suffered greatly from the crumbling character of the stone of which it is built.
In the neighbourhood of Conisborough there are numerous traces both of the Romans and of the early Britons.
COXWOLD AND ITS VICINITY.
Inn:—The Fauconberg Arms.
From Think, 12 miles; Malton, 18; York, 21.
This charming village is close to the Coxwold Station, on the Thirsk and Malton Railway, and is about five miles from Easing-wold, by road. It consists mainly of one long, sloping street, with a magnificent old elm tree at its upper extremity, and the church in a fine position on the rising ground beyond. As the106
COXWOLD-THE CHURCH.
tourist passes up this pleasant street, he will observe on his lefl the Free Grammar School, founded in 1603 "by Sir John Hartej Kt., of the. city of London.
The Church, dedicated to St. Michael, consists of nave, chancel, and tower. The walls are surmounted by a parapet in trefoil, with the crocketted pinnacles of buttresses rising at intervals above it, and with gargoyles representing grotesque human heads. The general style of the building is Perpendicular ; and the edifice may be referred to the fifteenth century. The chancel, however, is quite modern, having been rebuilt in 1777 by Henry, Earl Fauconberg. There is no break in the north wall of the chancel, and the only opening in its south wall is a plain pointed doorway. The east window is of five lights. The nave is lighted on the north side by five fine windows of three lights, and on the south by four, the filth space being occupied by a porch. The tower is an octagonal structure of great beauty, with fine battlements and pinnacles. Each side has in its upper part a handsome window (blank) divided into two lights, and the side facing due west has in addition a window of three lights in its lower part.
The interior of the church is very interesting. The chancel contains four splendid monuments erected to the memory of members of the family of Belasyse. The oldest of them, which stands against the north wall, and bears the date 1603, represents Sir William Belasyse in armour, reclining, his head resting upon his helmet, and his hands folded. By his side is his lady in a similar attitude. A stag is at the knight's feet, and a lion at the lady's. In compartments of the altar tomb, and at the base of the canopy, are the kneeling effigies of their children (four sons and a daughter). All the figures are coloured after life.
Adjoin big this monument, and, like it, rising* to the roof of the chancel, is a line piece of statuary in white marble, with the effigies of Thomas Earl Fauconberg, and Henry his son. Behind them is a bas relief of angels and a crown of glory. On the south side of the chancel stands a monument, with the kneeling effigies of Thomas Viscount Fauconberg, and Barbara his wife. We quote the lines with which the inscription on this monument concludes. Viscount Fauconberg survived his wife, and thus expresses his grief at his loss :—
" O chart cinercs, et dulcia conjugis ossa, Parcite, si lentus sim ; properare lubervicinity of coxwold : shandy hall—newburgh. 107
Nobis non ipsae facient discordia Paicae ;
Quam cupio in thalamos mortuua ire tuos.
Nos morimur, sed vivit amor, superestque sepultis ;
Te mihi fata, olim qua rapuere, dabunt.
Omnia homo bulla, omnia earo fcenum."
A. fourth, monument, with a handsome Gothic canopy but no effigies, is to the memory of Henry Earl of Fauconberg, who died in 1802, and his wife, who died in 1790. In the nave there is an old monumental brass with an imperfect inscription. The bosses at the intersections of the oak roof are curious.
Shandy Hall is about two hundred yards beyond the church, on the right. This picturesque old house was for seven years the residence of Laurence Sterne. While occupying the curacy of Cox wold he wrote " Tristram Shandy" and " The Sentimental Journey." " I am as happy as a prince at Coxwold," he says, in one of his letters, " and I wish you could see in how princely a manner I live—'tis a land of plenty. I sit down alone to venison, fish, and wild fowl, or a couple of fowls or ducks, with curds, strawberries, and cream, and all the simple plenty which a rich valley (under Hambleton Hills) can produce—with a clean cloth on my table—and a bottle of wine on my right hand, to drink your health. I have an hundred hens and chickens about my yard—and not a parishioner catches a hare, or a rabbit, or a trout, but he brings it as an offering to me."
Newburgh Park, at which Sterne was a frequent visitor during his incumbency at Coxwold, is in the immediate neighbourhood. The mansion occupies the site, and part of the buildings, of a priory of Augustinian canons, founded in 1145. William de Newburgh, the celebrated historian, was a canon of this house. Some interesting relics of Cromwell, and other curiosities, are preserved in the halL There are some good paintings in different apartments, mostly portraits of the Wombwell family, the owners of the estate. The park is finely wooded.
The Roman road from York to Teesmouth passed near Newburgh, and a vicinary way from Malton seems to have crossed it here. On the south-east side of the park there is a Roman entrenchment, and a number of tumuli in the neighbourhood.
About 2 miles north of Coxwold, on the slope of the Hum-bleton Hills, is the picturesquely situated village of Kilburn. Its church dates from the 12 th century, and though lately restored, retains much of its original interest and beauty. The doorway is Norman, the arches separating the single aisle from the nave108 vicinity of coxwold : ampleforth-gilling.
are in the Transition-Norman Early English style. A rich Norman arch, with deep and perfect zig-zag work, is at the entrance to the chanceL
ampleforth village is delightfully situated on the southwestern slope of the Hambleton Hills, about a mile from the station, which is two and a half from Coxwold. The Church has been rebuilt, and contains two Norman doorways. The effigies of a knight and his lady, in an attitude unusual in sepulchral memorials, are built into the wall. On the heights above there is an ancient British encampment of considerable extent, called by the country people Studford's Ring ; and other earthworks exist in the neighbourhood.
Not far from Ampleforth stands the Roman Catholic College of St. Lawrence, beautifully situated, and commanding an ex-
ST. LAWRENCE COLLEGE.
tensive view of the neighbourhood. It is one of the oldest Catholic centres of education in England, and is conducted by the Benedictines—an order famous as a teaching body, even in days previous to the Reformation. The college contains ample accommodation for upwards of a hundred students, and is greatly admired for the spaciousness and elegance of its corridors, study halls, libraries, dormitories, and lavatories. The Collegiate Church was erected in 1858, but many improvements (including a fine stained-glass east window, the gift of old alumni), have since been added.
Gilling is a small village five miles distant by rail. Thevicinity of coxwold—oswaldkirk.
109
manor, mentioned in Domesday, came, shortly after the Conquest, into the possession of the Mowbrays, from whom it passed by marriage to the Fairfaxes, with whom it still remains. The Church is of considerable antiquity, the cylindrical piers of the nave, with the. square abacus of the capitals, and the general style of the pointed arch, referring it to the period when the Norman style had not yet passed away. There are several interesting monuments in the interior. The east window, inserted in 1849, represents Faith, Hope, and Charity.
Grilling Castle is picturesquely situated on a wooded promontory overlooking the village and valley of the Holbeck. The most ancient part is the east end, which is circular. The great dining-room has a singular record of the county families in the beginning of the reign of Queen Elizabeth. The armorial trees of each family of importance, in every wapentake in this county at that period, are painted in the upper part of the panels.
In the neighbourhood of Gilling is Helmsley. It is five miles distant, and the small village of Oswaldkirk is. passed on the way, containing an ancient church, with remains of Norman, if not Saxon work. In the floor there is a large sepulchral stone, with the sculpture of an abbot's crosier or pastoral staff, supposed to commemorate an inmate of the religious house of which some ruins remain on the other side of the road. The parish register of Oswaldkirk commences in the year 1538. Under date 24th April 1585, it records the baptism of Roger Dodsworth, the celebrated Yorkshire antiquary, who was born at Newton Grange, in this parish. " One cannot," 6ays Qough, " approach the borders of this county without paying respect to the memory of the indefatigable collector of its antiquities, Roger Dodsworth, who undertook and executed a work, which, to the antiquaries of the present day, would have been the stone of Tydides." He left 122 MS. volumes of his own compiling, besides a considerable number from other sources—all which are preserved in the Bodleian Library. Archbishop Tillotson is said to have preached his first sermon in this church.
From Oswaldkirk Bank Top, the summit of the Caukless spur of the Hambleton Hills, there are very extensive views. On the right, the vale of Rye stretches away to Helmsley, and on the left is the vale of Mowbray, with the castle, woods, and village of Gilling, Tearsley Moor, and Newburgh Park.110
CROFT.
CROFT.
Hotels :—Winteringham's Croft Spa Hotel, and The Comet Tnn.
From York, 42 miles ; Thirsk, 19; Richmond, 12J; Darlington,
This favourite spa is pleasantly situated on the Yorkshire Eide of the Tees, which is here crossed by a fine bridge. The railway station, the post office, and one of the inns, are on the Durham side of the river, where is also a number of good houses, affording, like those in the village, accommodation to visitors.
The Church, the only building of importance in the village, is a quaint old edifice, chiefly in the Decorated style. It consists of nave, aisles, chancel, porch, and a low tower at the west end of the south aisle. Being built chiefly of red sandstone from the bed of the Tees, the fabric has an old and worn appearance, betokening a greater antiquity than it can lay claim to. Sculptured stones are here and there irregularly built into the walls. The interior will repay an examination. Pointed arches divide the aisles from the nave, and a circular arch divides the nave from the chanceL In the chancel there are three sedilia with finely sculptured canopies, and adjoining them there is a piscina in similar style. In the opposite wall of the chancel there is a square recess, with a sculptured canopy, perhaps an ambry. The east window is divided into five plain lights, with trefoil heads. In the south aisle there is a large altar tomb of grey marble to the memory of Richard Clervaux, who died in 1490. This tomb is enclosed by an old screen of carved oak. In the north aisle there is another massive altar tomb, having on its top a helmet and other old warlike trophies, and inscribed with the name of Dorothy Milbanke, of Halnaby Hall. There are several elegant modern monuments, not calling for special notice. Service is usually performed in this church every morning during summer.
The Mineral Waters are sulphureous, and are used both externally and internally. The springs are four in number, all (with the exception of the "Sweet Well," which has traces of iron and silica) containing the same ingredients, though in slightly different proportions. It will suffice to quote the analysis of one of the springs as a specimen of the whole. The "New Well" is somewhat stronger than any of the others. An imperial pint of it contains—CBOFT, AND ITS VICINITY.
Ill
Sulphuretted Hydrogeu.	3.57 cubic inchep.
Carbonic Acid	5.02
	7.59
Carbonate of Lime .	2.95 grains.
Carbonate of Magnesia	0.57
Sulphate of Lime .	17.71
Sulphate of Magnesia	1.71
Sulphate of Soda	2.35
Chloride of Sodium.	0.71
	26.03
The pump-room and baths .are in a neat building, having a verandah running along one of its sides, forming a pleasant promenade. The water may be had warm or cold, according to the taste of the visitor. Its properties are aperient, antacid, tonic, and diuretic. A preparation for its use by purgative medicines is recommended. Baths of this water are regarded as highly beneficial in cutaneous diseases. The terms are:—For drinking, Is. a week, 3d. a day; warm baths, 2s. 6d. each, or three in a week for 2s. each; cold baths, Is. each; shower—cold, Is.; warm, Is.
There is some pleasant scenery in the neighbourhood of Croft, particularly at Great Smeaton, about five miles distant, which is celebrated for the extensive and beautiful prospects which it commands. About four miles west of Croft is the hamlet of Stanwick, surrounded by extensive entrenchments, which antiquarians affirm to have belonged to a British tribe before the Roman conquest. This is the most remarkable part of a system of earth-works which have been traced, with more or less distinctness, from Easby to Barforth, near Winston Bridge, connecting the Swale and the Tees. This line of works is called the Scot's Dyke. The Roman road passes due north about a mile to the east of Stanwick, and enters Durham at Pierse Bridge.
Croft will form convenient head quarters for the tourist who wishes to explore the lower part of Teesdale. Several interesting places on the Durham side of the river are within easy distance, such as Darlington, with its ancient church of St. Cuthbert, and its handsome modern edifices ; the village of Hurworth and its old church, prominently situated on an eminence overlooking the stream ; and Dinsdale, with its sulphureous spring. The railway puts Richmond and its interesting neighbourhood within easy reach, and there are similar facilities for reaching Barnard Castle,112
DONCASTER.
and thence visiting the classic scenery of Rokeby. More distant excursions need not be indicated.
DONCASTER.
Hotels.—Angel and Royal, Turf Tavern. Woolsack, Red Lion, Salutation.
Distances.
From York, 32 miles ; Sheffield, 18 ; Leeds, SO; London, 156J.
Doncaster, the Danum of Antoninus, the Don-Castle of the Scots, and the Dona-ceaster of the Saxons, is situated pleasantly on the south bank of the Don, from which it derives its name. It stands on the line of the great Roman road from Eboracum (York) to Lindiun (Lincoln), and was probably a station of some importance. Few Roman remains, however, have been found here—the only relic of importance being a votive altar, finely sculptured, dedicated to the " Dese Matres," the font of which has the inscription—" Matribus Magnis Nonnius Antonius ob Roman-orum totam alam votum solvit lubens merito." During the Saxon period, Doncaster was the site of a palace of the kings of North-umbria. According to Bede, the second Christian church erected in Northumbria was at Doncaster. It was erected by Paulinus, between 627 and 633, under the immediate inspection of Edwin, the first Christian king of Northumbria. Doncaster appears to have repeatedly suffered from the ravages of the Danes. In 1399, Henry Bolingbroke, Earl of Hereford, afterwards Henry IV., came to Doncaster after his landing at Ravenspur. He lodged in the house of the Carmelite friars, which existed here from the time of Edward HL to the Dissolution; and here he is said to have taken the oath which Shakspere represents Thomas Tercy, Earl of Worcester, as charging him with having broken :—
" It was myself, my brother, and his son, That brought you home, and boldly did outdare The dangers of the time. Tou swore to us— And you did swear that oath at Doncaster— That you did nothing purpose 'gainst the State, Nor claim no farther than your new fallen right. The seat of Gaunt, dukedom of Lancaster; To this we swore our aid.
" From this swarm of fair advantages, You took occasion to be quickly woo'd To gripe the general sway Into your hand;DONOABTER—ST. GEORGE'S CHURCH.
113
Forgot your oath to us at Doncaster;
And, being fed by us, you used us so
As that ungentle gull, the cuckoo's bird,
Useth the sparrow; did oppress onr nest;
Grew by our feeding to so great a bulk,
That even our love durst not come near your sight,
For fear of swallowing; but with nimble wing
We were enforced, for safety's sake, to fly
Out of your sight, and raise this present head." *
In the wars of the Roses, Doncaster was the scene of various unimportant incidents, and during the Parliamentary war it was for some time the head-quarters of the Earl of Manchester, after the battle of Maxston Moor. The subsequent history of Doncaster embraces only the uneventful details of the progress of civilization and material prosperity.
In this town or neighbourhood was born the celebrated naval commander Sir Martin Frobisher, who distinguished himself by his efforts to find a north-west passage. He served under Drake in the "West Indies, shared the glory of discomfiting the Spanish Armada, and was killed in an assault upon a fort near Brest in 1594. The Rev. "William Bingley, author of "Animal Biography," and other works, was born here in 1774, and died in 1823. John Lacy, the dramatist, author of "The Dumb Lady," was a native of Doncaster. He died in 1681.+
The population of Doncaster in 1871 was 18,758, and the inhabited houses 5872, showing an increase since the census of 1861 of 2352 persons and 1278 houses. The commerce is mostly agricultural. There are large fairs for horses, cattle, and wool.
Doncaster is a well-built, pleasant town, although most of the houses are constructed of brick. It contains numerous handsome public buildings.
The Parish Church, dedicated to St. George, is the most important of these. It is erected on the site, and after the general form, of an ancient edifice which was destroyed by fire in i853. The old church belonged to different periods, its oldest part being conjectured, with very little probability however, to have been built in the time of William the Conqueror. The destruction of this church being regarded as a national calamity, an appeal for subscriptions, which was made
* King Eewry IV., Part First. Act v., Scene 1.
t There is some pleasant gossip regarding the worthies of Doncaster In Souther's "Doctor," etc., chap xlv.
I114
D0NCA8TER-ST. GEORGE'S CHURCH.
with the view of having it rebuilt, was-promptly and liberally responded to, a sum of £40,000 being raised in a short time. The church was finished and consecrated for divine worship iu October 1858. The cost of the building, exclusive of the organ, etc., amounted to £43,000.
This church has been pronounced the most stately ecclesiastical structure erected in England during the present century It was built from the plans of Mr. G. Scott of London, who has adopted the style which prevailed in the end of the thirteenth century (the " early Decorated"), and, in carrying it out, has given to the architectural details the full scale of richness usual to the best structures of that period. The building consists oi nave, aisles, transepts, chancel (with chapels), and a tower at the intersection. The general dimensions are :—
	Ft	In.
Total internal length,	168	9
„ external ,,	177	3
Internal width across transepts,	92	0
„ „ nave and aisles,	64	6
Height of tower,	172	O
roof,	75	0
The windows of the south aisles are of three lights and rich in tracery; and those of the north aisle are somewhat bolder and more solid. The clerestory windows of the nave are of two lights, and form a continuous and extremely rich arcade. The east window is perhaps the finest window of modern times. It is of eight lights, and has a clear measurement of 22 feet 6 inches by 47 feet 6 inches. The design of this noble window is believed to be unique. It has a great circle of about 15 feet in diameter, which is filled in with a border of twelve smaller circles, with radiating compartments in the central space. The effect of this window, internally, is heightened by a rich reredos, with shafts of red Spanish marble, the wings of which are continued by arcaded seating, over which are two bold and beautiful apertures of three lights opening into the side chapels. The chancel is paved with encaustic tiles. The south or Forman chapel is the most richly decorated portion of the church. It was erected at the sole cost of W. H. Forman, Esq., in memory of his brother, who was interred in the old chapel here in 1850. The roof is vaulted with stone, and the walls are decorated withdoncaster—the races.
115
rieli arcading under the windows, which are filled with fine stained glass. This chapel is used as the baptistry of the church. Out space will not allow of other parts of the church being noticed in detail. The stalls and general fittings of the interior are all in excellent taste. A splendid organ was erected in 1862. The tower contains a fine peal of eight bells.
Christ Church is a modern edifice, in the style of the fourteenth century. It consists of nave, aisles, and chancel, with a low tower at the west end surmounted by a beautiful spire. The walls of the church and the tower and spire are adorned with elegant pinnacles. This church was opened in 1829.
A new church, St. James's, built from a design by Mr. G. Scott, the architect of the parish church, is worth examining for the peculiarity of its plan, which consists of what may be called two naves, one rather higher and wider than the other, placed side by side, with a row of pillars, alternately round and octagonal, running down the middle. This church was erected in 1858, at a cost of JE5000.
There are numerous Dissenting Chapels and Schools, but none of these buildings are of such importance as to require to be individually noticed.
The municipal buildings of this town are of a handsome and tasteful description. The Mansion House contains portraits of George III., the Marquis of Rockingham, Earl Fitzwilliam, and one or two of the former mayors of Doncaster. The Guild Hall has a portico of four handsome columns with a pediment, surmounted by a figure of Justice. The Market Hall is a large and handsome stone building, with an iron roof supported by tall columns. Over the principal entrance there is a figure of Ceres, by a Doncaster artist.
The Doncaster Races are among the most celebrated in the kingdom, the St. Leger day being considered scarcely inferior in importance to "the Derby" itself. They are of great antiquity, the corporation books recording the fact that there was a stand on the course here before the year 1615. The Race Gcwrse is about a mile out of the town, to the south-east, the road, to it being beautifully lined with trees. The Grand Stand, a large and handsome building, on a site commanding the best view of the course, was erected in 1777, and has since that date undergone many alterations and improvements. The races are held in the third week of September. The famous St. Leger race was116 vicinity of doncaster—tickhill castle.
originated in 1776 "by General St. Leger, from whom it derives its name. The stakes amount to a large sum, and are ttnnually run for by the best horses in England. The course is almost circular, being 1 mile 7 furlongs 70 yards in circumference. In the vicinity of Doncaster there are various interesting spots. Conisborough, with its old Norman keep, distant 5 miles by rail, has been already described (p. 100), as has also Askern, 6 miles distant by rail to the north (p. 43). By the South Yorkshire line the tourist can visit the flat country to the east. Thorne is a small thriving town in a level and unpicturesque but fertile district The river requires to be retained by high embankments. In Thorne Waste and Hatfield Chace, two great expanses of peat moss now drained, innumerable oak trees, some skeletons of deer, and Roman coins have been turned up. At Fishlaxe, about a mile from Thorne, there is an interesting old church. Campsmount, or Brayton Hall, is beautifully situated at the southern extremity of Barnsdale. It is surrounded with pleasant woods and plantations, containing some fine cedars of Lebanon. In 1840 a large number of Eoman coins of the 3d century were discovered in the adjoining grounds. Adwick-le-Street is an interesting village. The church contains some fine old monuments to the Washington family.
Tickhill Castle is 7 miles from Doncaster by road, and is about 4 from the Bawtry Station of the Great Northern Railway. This building has, when in its complete state, borne a striking resemblance to the castle of Conisborough, consisting, like it, of a round keep, situated on a hill, with an area with but one entrance, and that strongly defended, and having a moat drawn round the base of the elevation. The date of the erection of the castle cannot be exactly ascertained. A castle seems to have been either built or enlarged here by Roger de Busli, who died in the end of the eleventh century. We find the castle and honour of Tickhill subsequently in the possession of Henry II. On the return of Richard I. to England, the castles of Tickhill and Nottingham were the only ones in the kingdom which held out against him, and in favour of his brother John. In the Parliamentary war, the castle was held by the Royalists, but surrendered after the battle of Marston Moor. The circular keep was demolished by command of the Parliament, and only its foundations, with some fragments of the walls, now remain. The gateway tower is the only part, of the structure that has to anyvicinity of d0nca3teb—hoche abbey.
117
great extent withstood the violence of man and the ravages of time. There is a handsome apartment over the entrance, with a large window towards the area. The area contained a chapel, and several buildings for the residence of persons connected with the castle. The remains of an old doorway, with the words— " Peace and grace be in this place," are supposed to have belonged to the chapel. The northern part of the castle, with additions and alterations, forms a picturesque modern mansion. The ground is well laid out, and the top of the mount affords agreeable but not extensive prospects. The town, which is small, possesses a fine Church of the time of Richard II., in the interior of which are numerous interesting monuments. Our space does not admit of more than a recommendation of these to the attention of the visitor.
Passing on from Tickhill, a walk of about three miles will bring the tourist to Sandbeck Pa&k, the mansion of the Earl of Scarborough. The style of the building is Grecian, and its situation is beautiful. The park is pleasantly wooded.
Roche Abbey is at the western extremity of the grounds of Sandbeck Park, and is the property of the same nobleman. The nearest stations are Bawtry (G.N.R.), 8 m.; Rotherham or Conisbro' (Mid. and M. S. and L.), 8 m.; Kiveton Park (M. S. and L.), 7 m. A coach runs daily during the summer between Rotherham and Bawtry, and a railway is projected between these places. The Cistercian Monks who settled here are denominated in the foundation deeds Monachi de Bupe. The abbey was endowed by the two lords of the soil, Richard de Busli and Richard de Wick-ersley. It was probably founded about the year 1147. Its remains are not extensive, nor do they owe-their attractiveness so much to their own beauty as to the exquisite picturesqueness of the valley in which they are situated. The gateway, which is on the side towards Maltby, is of a later style of architecture than the rest of the remains. It consists of two aisles, with groined arches above, and is supposed to be the novum hospitivm mentioned in the account of the abbey property, and erected for the accommodation of pilgrims. Passing on through the grounds, the visitor reaches a spot where the valley suddenly opens, and discloses a charming view of the remains of the abbey church. There is a large mass of stonework at some distance from the principal por-118
DRIFFIELD,
tion of the ruins of the church. This is evidently part of the great western entrance, and admitted to the nave, which has been flanked by side aisles, as may be seen from the base of one or two of the columns. Going eastward, we find large remains of the columns which supported the tower, at the intersection of the nave, choir, and transept. The eastern walls of the transept still exist, as does also enough of the inner work to shew that each transept has had two small chapels, entered from the open part of the transept, and lighted by windows looking eastward. In this and other particulars, we note a great conformity to the church at Kirkstall, which was also built by the Cistercian monks.
There is a good public path through the grounds, but pleasure parties are only admitted on Mondays and Thursdays.
At Roche Abbey the tourist is about eight miles from Rother-ham. He should follow a track along the side of the stream as far as Maltby (2 m.), a picturesque village with the prettiest of churchyards, rejoining his carriage at the Swan Inn.
DRIFFIELD.
Hotels.—The BeU, The Keys, Black Swan, Bed Lion, Blue Bell.
From Hull, 19J miles; Scarborough, 34; Malton, 20; Bridlington, 12 ; York, 42
Driffield (pop. 10,000), called sometimes Great Driffield to distinguish it from the small neighbouring hamlet of Little Driffield, is the capital of the York Wolds. It carries on a considerable trade in corn and other agricultural produce. Four large fairs are held annually at Little Driffield, for stock, lambs, etc.
The town consists chiefly of one long and broad street, containing many good houses and shops. The principal building is the Church, which is a fine old edifice in different styles, consisting of nave, aisles, chancel, and tower at the west end. On the south side there is a plain but handsome Norman doorway, marred by a modern porch, built of brick. There is a smaller doorway in the same style, with foliated capitals to its columns, in the south wall of the chancel. The tower, which is lofty and well-proportioned, is adorned with buttresses, pinnacles, and battlements, and has a handsome niche in its west front, over the lower window. The east window is slightly rounded, and consists of five Perpendicular lights ; the other windows of the chancel are square headed, and in the same style. Above the east window of the south aisle a figure, probably that of Paulinus,driffield-the wolds.
119
has been built into the waJL The clerestory "windows are narrow and round headed. In the interior there are no monuments of any interest. The aisles are divided from the nave by circular arches ; and the chancel is separated from it by a pointed one. There is a tradition that this church was built by one of the Hotham family, to absolve himself from a vow which he had made, when under a dangerous illness, to undertake a pilgrimage to the Holy Land.
Little Driffield is about a mile distant. This small hamlet is the burial-place of Alfred, King of Northumbria. A marble tablet in the Chapel, which is a respectable building, bears the inscription :—"Here lies the body of Alfred, "K"ing of Northumberland, who departed this life, January 19th, a.d. 705, in the xxth year of his reign. Statutum est omnibus mori. It is appointed for all once to die." This Alfred must not be confounded with Alfred the Great, who lived 200 years later. There can be no doubt that Driffield was the scene of many fierce battles about the time referred to, for the tumuli of the slain may yet be seen in various places in the neighbourhood ; it is not improbable, therefore, that Alfred may have received his death-wound here, if he fell in battle, as some writers say. Search has been mors than once made for the bones of the king, but in vain. The vicinity of Driffield has, however, yielded many valuable facts regarding British burials. In the tumuli have been found flint spear heads, fragments of urns, beads of jet, amber, and glass, and other ornaments, along with the crumbling skeletons of their possessors. The skeletons of females have been found in the tumuli on these Wolds, with the bracelets, rings, brooches, and beads that adorned them in life ; and British charioteers have been found with their accoutrements, and even the remains of the skeletons of their steeds lying beside them.
The country around Driffield has many features of interest. " The Wolds," remarks Mr. Phillips, " constitute properly but one region, sloping from a curved summit, whose extremities touch the sea at Flamborough Head, and the Humber at Ferriby ; but this crescent of hills is cut through by one continuous hollow —the Great Wold Valley from Settrington to Bridlington. Along this valley burst the most remarkable of those intermitting springs to which the name of ' Gypseys' is applied. By gradually upswelling from the clifEs of Flamborough, 159 feet, and Speeton,120 vicinity op driffield: harpham-lowthorpk.
450 feet, the chalk wolds rise to 805 feet in Wilton Beacon ; from this point they decline gently to Hunsley Beacon, 531 feet, and beyond that drop to the Humber.
On the summit of Garton Hill stands the monument erected to the late Sir Tatton Sykes, Bart., a gentleman highly respected in the East Riding. It "consists of a tower and spire, surmounted by a cross, with a total height of 120 feet. The design is one of the early Decorated period, of bold conception, and beautiful proportion. The base or pedestal has four panels, in one of which is the entrance-door, and over it the bas-relief of the late Baronet, on his favourite hunter—a copy, in fact, of the idea supplied by Grant's famous picture." *
The site may be regarded as " classic ground the mound on which the monument stands being one vast Anglo-Saxon Christian cemetery. Through the mediaeval period the Wolds were an open waste, and, in comparatively recent times, their cultivation and enclosure was mainly owing to the Sykes family.
Harpham, a small village about 4 miles to the north-east of Driffield, is noted as the birth-place of St. John of Beverley, in 640. He became Archbishop of York, and, while occupying that see, founded a monastic establishment at Beverley, to which he retired after holding his office for thirty-three years. " He was educated," says Fuller, " under Theodoras the Grecian, and Archbishop of Canterbury ; yet was he not so famous for his teacher as for his scholar, Venerable Bede, who wrote this John's life, which he hath so spiced with miracles that it is of the hottest for a discreet man to digest into his belief." He died in 721. In the Church of Harpham there is a burying vault of the family of St. Quintin, and monuments to various of the chiefs of the house, commencing with Sir Herbert St. Quintin, who came over at the Conquest. The font is of a very curious and unusual shape. The village is about a mile from Burton Agnes station.
Lowthorpe, a little nearer Driffield, has a church of some antiquity, the roof of which fell in in 1859, but has been since partially restored. In the ruined chancel may be seen an old brass aud two altar tombs; and there is a piscina in the wall. In the churchyard stands an old cross, said to have been brought hither from KilTm/m at the time of the plague. A curious memorial stone, with the recumbent effigies of a man and his wife, with a tree between them, sending out six branches on either
* The MalUm Messenger.easby abbey.
121
ride, each branch, ending in a carved child's head, is worth noticing before leaving the churchyard. We may quote a curious epitaph from a slab over the grave of a man, who, at his own desire, was buried in a field in the neighbourhood—
" Stranger, -whom curiosity has brought, To view a grave in this sequestered spot, Enow that the Judge will ask, when time is fled, What was our life, not where we lay when dead; Then leave thy sins, embrace the ransom given, And death to thee will prove the gate to heaven."
Watton, a hamlet about 5J miles south of Driffield, or about 2 from the Hutton Cranswick station, has the remains of an Abbey of Gilbertine canons and nuns. According to Bede, a nunnery existed here as early as the year 686. It was destroyed by the Danes about 870, and refounded in 1149 by Eustace Fitz-John, at the instance of Murdac, Archbishop of York, as an expiation for his crimes. This abbey, along with the nunnery attached to it, shared the fate of all similar institutions at the Dissolution. The present fabric exhibits no traces of the early building. It is constructed of brick and 6tone, and belongs to the early part of the Tudor period of architecture. This interesting old edifice has suffered as much from the hand of man as from that of time ; the materials having been freely taken away for building purposes. Enough, however, remains of the abbey itself to render it worthy of the attention of the antiquary. Some years ago it was converted into a dwelling-house.
DTJNCOMBE PARK.—In the vicinity of Helmsley.
EASBY ABBEY.
Easby Abbey is on the left bank of the river Swale, a long mile below the ancient town of Richmond. It may be reached by a pleasant foot-path, by the side of the stream, with seats placed at convenient distances for the benefit of lazy or invalid visitors ; or by following the Catterick road for §-mile, and then taking a branch to the right. This Abbey was founded in 1152 by Roaldus, Constable of Richmond Castle, who dedicated it to St. Agatha. It was a house of White Canons or Premonstratensiana like the Abbey of Coverham in Wensleydale. At its dissolution by Henry VIII., the annual revenue, liable to great deductions,122
ISA SB? ABBEY.
amounted to <£188 : 16 : 2. Fuller says that the abbey lands proved a curse to those among whom they were divided, as within twenty years after the Dissolution they were either executed for high treason, or their families became extinct or decayed in theii fortunes.
The abbey is delightfully situated. Viewed from many different points, it has all the requisites of a perfect picture. " It is not merely as a ruined abbey," Mr. Phillips remarks, " but rather as a pictorial combination of ivy-tinted wall, fine trees, bold ground, and beautiful water, that Easby deserves and re ceives so much attention. We linger among its lowly fragments with the gentlest and fondest thoughts. Nothing here shocks, startles, offends, or troubles ; the cawing rooks, the musical small birds, the lowing of cattle, the murmuring river, the whispers of memory—this is all we hear." The various detached portions of this extensive ruin are highly picturesque. The wild rose, the hawthorn, and the mountain ash, may be seen rising in a rich mass of foliage and flowers over the clustered pillars of what was once the Abbey Church. Ivy in immense festoons hangs over other parts, while aged and towering trees wave above them.
Beginning at that part of the ruins which is nearest the parish church, the tourist will first examine the Refectory. This is a noble room, 102 feet long by 27 wide. Its walls are in a good state of preservation, and its beautiful east window is remarkably perfect. The 6tyle is the Decorated, which refers this apartment to the earlier part of the fourteenth century. The Kitchen, adjoining the refectory on the west, may be known by its large fire-place and chimney. The Cloister Court, one side of which is formed by the north wall of the refectory, appears, from its interesting Norman doorway, to be coeval with the foundation of the abbey, in 1152. The group of buildings to the west of the refectory and cloister court is also, in all probability, part of the. original foundation. The Chapter House is at the east end of the north side of the refectory. Its style is early English, with some later alterations. Next we come to the Abbey Church, the plan of which can be traced, though very much of it has perished. The clustered columns of the transept remain, beautiful in their ruins. There are still 6ome windows in the transepts ; and in the north wall of the choir there are two recesses, in which the bodies of the founder of the abbey and his wife areEASBY CHURCH:
123
said to have been deposited. It was from this church that the beautiful lattice-work and stalls, which in Wensley and Richmond churches attract the admiration of the visitor, were removed ; but the antiquarian or the tourist who is pensively inclined can only speculate vaguely as to the spot, on this green sward, and within these ruined walls, on which they once stood. The Abbot's House, instead of occupying the usual site to the south-east of the choir, is built on the north side of the church, where it must have been destitute of warmth and sunshine. To compensate for the darkness of his lodgings, however, he had, as Dr. Whitaker observes, a pleasant garden, open to the morning sun, with a beautiful solarium highly adorned with Gothic groinings. The Abbey Gateway is at a short distance from the ruins. It is in excellent preservation ; and a large room in its upper storey has been used as a granary since the Dissolution. The Abbey Granary, also, is in perfect preservation, and is used for the purpose for which it was intended. A gnarled and gigantic elm, called The Abbot's Elm, is midway between the granary and the parish church. Such appears to be the antiquity of the tree, that it is by no means improbable that it may have afforded its grateful shade to many a hoary abbot in the leafy pummer time of " long ago."
Easby Church is a simple structure of considerable antiquity. The oldest part is in the early English style, and is variously referred to the twelfth and thirteenth centuries; but there are portions of the edifice in the perpendicular style, and therefore not older than the fifteenth century. In the chancel are three sedilia and an arched recess, with a stone coffin. The font is Norman, and very old. It is to be noted that this church declines considerably from the eastern direction, usually adopted in ecclesiastical edifices.
" The little church of Easby," says Longstaffe in his Rich-mondshire, " is a gem of rusticity. It realizes all our ideas of model village temples, shewn us in pretty story books. Ivy floats round the chancel, to the grief of the antiquarians, and a large trunk comes bursting out of its north side, we know not from what hidden birth-place. A scrap of Saxon or early Norman sculpture peeps from above, the western lights, in the form of a knot, more elaborate than that of a true lover, and makes all the people admire. Dim shields of Scrope, Aske, and Conyers, surround the porch entrance; and this, forsooth, ifl the only memorial of the Scropes at their pet resting-place."124
EASINGWOLD.
EASINGWOLD AND ITS VICINITY.
Inn '.—The. George.
From Alne Station, 3 miles; York, 13 ; Thirsk, 10.
Easingwold is pleasantly situated at the foot of the Howardian Hills, in the eastern part of the Yale of York. The town is clean and attractive, and its neighbourhood is richly wooded, and in a high state of cultivation. The great number of bronze celts* found in this vicinity indicates that there was a British settlement of some kind here, before the time of the Eomans. Of the latter people there are not any traces beyond the road from Aldby to Catterick, which passed through Easingwold, and perhaps suggested the name Long Street, or Low Street, borne by a part of the town. Under the Saxons, from whom it derived its name, Easingwold seems to have grown into a place of some importance, aa it is recorded as having had a church and priest at the tune of the Domesday Survey. No facts of any general interest are embraced in the history of this place, though doubtless it had its share in the stirring events of which, in Norman and later times, the Forest of Galtres was the scene.
The principal trade of Easingwold is in agricultural produce. Weaving has been extinguished here, as in many other small country towns, by the introduction of steam machinery in the great manufacturing districts. The town, however, is still celebrated, as it has long been, for its manufacture of steels. The population at last census was 5475 ; the inhabited houses 1173.
Easingwold was the birth-place of Shaw, the life-guardsman, whose gallant exploits at Waterloo are noticed by Sir Walter Scott. He began life here as an apprentice to a blacksmith, but was induced to enlist in the guards, in which regiment he attained
* These implements were first described in 1709, by Thomas Hearne, the antiquarian, in an appendix to his edition of Leland's Itinerary, Hearne pronounced them to be Roman cdtes, or chisels; and, his opinion being generally acquiesced in by his contemporaries, these relics obtained the name by which they still go. Hearne is now believed by many antiquarians to have been wrong In ascribing these tools to the Romans. There can be no doubt that they were In very common use by workmen in this country, as they have been found in many places, and often in considerable quantities; and this circumstance has led most antiquarians to believe them to be of British manufacture. Mr. Thos. Wright, however, in his " Celt, Roman, and Saxon " f2d edition, London, 1861), in Inclined to agree with Hearne in ascribing these implements to the Romans. They vary in shape, and have been something between u chisel and an axe-head.basingwold-the church.
125
the rank of corporal. In his last battle lie is believed to have slain or disabled ten Frenchmen with his own hand, before he sank from the loss of blood. His grave is still pointed out to the traveller, close to La Haye Sainte, on the plain of Waterloo.
The Church occupies a good position, commanding an extensive view of the country, formerly the Forest of Galtres, with the massive form of York Minster standing out prominently on the horizon to the south. It consists of nave, aisles, chancel, and western tower, and is of mixed architecture. The oldest part of the fabric seems to be the north doorway, which is early English, and has some appearance of being an insertion in its present position. The chief portion of the church appears to belong to the beginning of the fourteenth century ; but the square-headed windows are later, probably further insertions. The tower is a later addition. It contains a peal of five musical bells: Here also is preserved a large oak coffin, regarding which there is a tradition, with no very definite foundation to rest upon, that it was formerly used as a public bier for carrying the dead to the grave, with no other covering than the shroud. The interior of the church is uninteresting. There are remains of two old tombstones with sculptured crosses, very much defaced, probably of a date anterior to the Reformation. The other monuments are all modern and unimportant.
The Archdeacons of Richmond had formerly a manor house here; but, on the severance of the archdeaconry from the diocese of York, it was converted into a farm house. The house has since been pulled down, and a more suitable building for farm purposes erected in its place; but its name and some of its fine timber yet remain, and the moat may also be traced in part.
There are in this town chapels of the Wesleyan and Primitive Methodists, the Independents, and the Roman Catholics.
Easingwold once possessed numerous specimens of the picturesque timber and plaster-fronted houses with antique gables, of the latter part of the seventeenth century, which contribute so much to the quaintness and interest of some old English towns. Here, as elsewhere, they are continually diminishing in number; but a few still remain. One in Uppleby bears the inscription, " qod with vs. 1664."—recording probably some old Parliamentarian's memorial of the battle of Marston Moor, where this was the rallying cry of the party.
The Market Place is a spacious square, containing about126	VICINITY OP EA8INGW0LD-CRAYKE CASTLE.
two acrea of ground. The cross has disappeared, but its base and 6teps remain. A double row of shambles encroaches upon the square in a fashion which, unfortunately, is not rare in Yorkshire. The stocks and whipping post, which once stood here, are abolished; and the "ducking stool," as the local historian* informs us, " to the honour of the fair sex of the town of Easing-wold, has long since been taken down, as totally useless and superfluous."
There are several medicinal springs in the vicinity, but they have not hitherto attracted much notice.
Crayke Castle.—The commanding eminence, about 2 J miles from Easingwold, on which the pleasant hamlet of Crayke, with the remains of its Castle, is situated, will well repay a visit. Crayke is 12 miles from York, by road (the way lying through the tract of countiy formerly called the Forest of Galtres, and passing some interesting hamlets), and about 4 miles from the Coxwold station. The parish of Crayke, though in the very centre of Yorkshire, belongs to Durham. A monastery is said to have been founded here as early as 685, and to have been destroyed by the Danes about 882. There was a castle built here soon after the Conquest by one of the bishops of Durham; but no traces of it remain. The building erected on its 6ite, of which the present ruins constitute a part, was, according to Leland, " erected totally by Neville, Bishop of Durdome" (Durham), who died in 1457. It has had a modern addition made to it, in the Tudor style, the greater part of which is now used as a farm-house.
A view of great extent and beauty is obtained from the summit of the bill on which Crayke Castle stands. The eye can sweep over the vast basin through which, from various directions, the rivers Swale, Ure, Nid, Ouse, and Derwent, flow towards the points where their waters mingle. Southward is the Forest-of Galtres, with York Minster beyond, and the rich, vale stretching away into the dim distance. Eastward may be seen the Wolds, and northward the hilla of Hambleton and Wensleydale.
The Church, which is dedicated to St. Cuthbert, stands near
* Mr. Thomas Gill, of Easingwold. His 1)0011, " Vallis Eboracensis, comprising the History and Antiquities of Easingwold and its neighbourhood " (London, and Easingwold, 1852), is of considerable interest and value.VICINITY OF EASING'WOLD—ALNE—RASKELFE. 127
the castle. It is a neat structure of the time of Henry V1X, and consists of nave, chancel, and tower, "with battlements and pinnacles. The interior contains a chancel screen in carved oak, and several unimportant monuments.
There are numerous other places of interest within reach of Easingwold; and, but for the circumstance that it is not upon a line of railway, this town might be often used as head-quarters by tourists, for excursions in the country round. The nearest station is Alne, 3 miles distant (an omnibus generally meets the trains). It may also be reached, by a longer walk, from Easkelfe or from Coxwold. The last-named place has been already described (p. 84). The others deserve a word of notice here.
Alne.—The small village of Alne is about 1 mile west from the railway station of that name, and about 4 from Easingwold. The Church is Norman, but disfigured by the taste less alterations and repairs of the end of last century. A richly and curiously carved Norman doorway, however, will be found worthy of examination, as will also a lofty arch of the same order of architecture opening to the tower, which is manifestly a subsequent addition. In the interior of the church there is the recumbent effigy of a lady, in alabaster. The font is Norman, and the pulpit is a piece of antique work in carved oak. There is a piscina in the eastern part of the north aisle.
Raskelfe is half a mile from the station of that name (1 miles from York, 9 from Thirsk), and between 4 and 5 miles from Easingwold, within which parish it is included. Here the antiquary will find a very curious old Church, with a singular wooden tower. This interesting edifice is dedicated to St. Mary, and consists of chancel, nave, north aisle, and tower. It belongs to the transition, or semi-Norman period, which dates from the reign of Stephen to the beginning of that of Henry HI., and is attributed to Bertram de Bulmer, the sheriff, who gave name to Sheriff Hutton Castle. The oldest part of the structure is the north aisle, in the eastern part of the wall of which there is a small Norman window. The east window of this aisle is an insertion of the fifteenth century; and the windows of the chancel are insertions of the fourteenth. Some of the windows contain armorial bearings of the families of Dacre, Scroop of Masham, Neville, Percy, etc. The arches and pillars dividing the eastern part of the aisle from the chancel are of wood, but very early The font belongs to the latter part of the twelfth, or the beginning128
FILET—THE CHURCH.
of the thirteenth century. Gill conjectures, with much probability, that the tower is of about the same age as the latest of the three bells it contains, which bears the date 1653. This tower, like that of Easingwold, has formed no part of the original design, which doubtless included, here as well as there, only a bell-gable above a lofty arch. The church will accommodate 230 persons.
EGTON.—This small market-town has a station on the North Yorkshire Kail way, about 20 minutes' run from Whitby, and will be more conveniently described in connection with that town. See page 383.
FILEY.
Hotels.—The Crescent, Foords, The Ship. Good private lodgings in the town. From Scarborough, 91 m. (rail), 7J m. (road); Bridlington, 13J m. (rail), 12 m. (road);
Hull, 44$; York, 45J ; London, 217J.
This prosperous watering-place was, little over thirty years ago, an insignificant fishing village. It is, however, a place of great antiquity. Antiquarians have not yet agreed whether Filey or Dunsley is the "well havened bay" of Ptolemy; but there can be no doubt that the former has been an important Roman station. This fact was established in 1857, when the heavy floods washed down large portions of the cliff, exposing remains of undoubted Roman work. The station has since then been thoroughly explored ; and an account of the results of the excavations may be found in the Transactions of the Yorkshire Philosophical Society. It is very probable that the watering-place of to-day was a resort of the Romans ages before it passed into the obscurity from which it has so recently emerged. Its picturesque position on the cliffs of one of the noblest bays on the east coast of England, and its valuable spa, along with its fine hotels and handsome private houses, make Filey a very attractive summer resort.
The population of Filey, at the census of 1871, was 4090 ; increase 362 ; inhabited houses, 871. The staple trade of the place is its fisheries, which are estimated to be of the annual value of from £20,000 to £27,000.
The Parish Church, dedicated to St. Oswald, stands on a commanding eminence, separated from the town by a deep ravine, which forms the boundary between the North and EastFILET-THE CHURCH.
129
Ridings (so that the church, with a few houses near it, ia in the former division of the county, and the town- in the latter). It consists of nave, aisles, transepts, and chancel, with a massive square tcwer at the intersection. The oldest portion of the fabric is the nave, which belongs to the middle of the twelfth century, the date of its foundation. Here, in spite of the ignorant and barbarous treatment to which the building has been subjected from time to time, there remains a good deal of genuine Norman work to interest the antiquarian. This work is chiefly to be seen in the interior. The nave is divided from its aislea by six circular arches, rising from massive pillars, alternately cylindrical and octagonal, with the exception of those at the west end, which are clustered. The strength of these latter columns, taken in conjunction with the massive double buttresses by which the west end is protected externally, favours the opinion that there was originally a tower over this part of the building. The piers at the east end of the nave consist of square pillars with clustered columns on each of their sides. Most of. the windows have been altered ; but one remains, at the west end of the north aisle, as a specimen of the simple style of the original Norman church. The clerestory windows remain on both sides of the nave. An old, plain, Norman font stands at the west end of the nave. The transition from Norman to Early English is seen in the south doorway ; and the latter of these styles is followed in the other parts of the building; but the alterations made in subsequent times have materially interfered with the details, and injured the effect of these, as well as of the older portions of the church. There are three sedilia in the south transept, and a piscina in the north. The tower has a peal of three line bells.
Filey possesses no other buildings of any interest to the tourist. The old part of the town consists mainly of two streets running parallel to the ravine already mentioned. " New Filey," as the southern part of the town is called, is mostly composed of lodging-houses, arranged in handsome streets. The principal range is called " the Crescent," and commands a fine view of the bay. The want of accommodation in the parish church during summer, led, in 1857, to the erection of an Iron Church, which is dependent for its maintenance upon the contributions of visitors. There are several Dissenting Chapels, Schools, and a Library and News-room. A small newspaper is published weekly during the season, with a list of the visitors.
K130
filey brigg.
About half-a-niile to the north of the town is the Car Naze a narrow headland or cliff with a summer-house, from which a fine view is obtained. Here is situated the Spa well of saline mineral water, tasting not unlike sea water. It is regarded aa useful in dyspepsia, scrofula, and nervous diseases. The following is an analysis of one pint:—
Sulphate of Magnesia	6.12 grains.
Chloride of Magnesia	4.45
Chloride of Calcium .	5.15
Chloride of Sodium	26.35
Carbonate of Soda	7.26
with a small quantity of iron, and traces of iodine and bromine.
Filet Brigg, the northern boundary of the bay, is a remarkable ridge of rocks, projecting nearly half a mile into the sea, and perfectly dry at low water. This reef is a favourite resort of visitors. The spectacle presented by the breaking of the waves upon it during storms is often very magnificent; and, when the storms have abated, naturalists may pick up numerous and beautiful specimens of the spoils of the sea. Many varieties of coralines and marine algae may be found here, and the reef has abundance of beautiful helianthoidea, and other objects for the aquarium.
The vicinity of Filey has considerable attractions to the geologist as well as the general tourist. The Brig itself, worn and hollowed in many places into caves by the storms of ages, is an interesting object of study. It is formed by the oolitic rock cropping out suddenly at an angle of about 45° from under the overlying diluvium. It stretches, in accordance with the general direction of the strata in this county, in a south-easterly direction across the front of the bay, gradually dipping under the sea, and acting as a barrier against the entrance of much sand. In the opposite direction the ridge rises to a height of two hundred feet, forming the escarpment of the cliffs to the north.
The cliffs contain numerous fossil relics of a former world. This is especially the case at Speeton, seven miles to the south, where the clay is rich in belemnites and ammonites in considerable variety, and possesses a few crioceratites, and some beautiful crustacea. These cliffs are the haunt of vast numbers of sea fowl. Gristhorp, three miles distant, to the north, and Red Cliff, a little farther, present interesting stratifications. In. the shales between these two elevations may be found beautifulhunmanby-flamborough.
131
fossils, chiefly ferns, zamiae, and lycopodiaceae. Gristhorp has attractions also for the antiquarian ; for the tumulus on the cliff was the grave of an ancient British chief. On the tumulus being opened between twenty and thirty years ago, a rude oak coffin was discovered, 7£ feet long and 3J feet broad ; its greatest internal measurements being 5 feet 4 inches long, 2 feet inches broad, and 1 foot 3 inches deep. The coffin contained the perfect skeleton of the warrior, with some of his weapons and ornaments. These interesting relics are deposited in the Museum at Scarborough.
Hunmauby, 3 miles distant, a pleasant village of about 1300 inhabitants, has an interesting Church of much antiquity. It consists of nave, north aisle, chancel, and tower. The oldest portions of the building are the tower and the chancel arch, which evidently belong to the twelfth century. The walls of the tower are irregularly pierced with windows of various sizes, one of them of two lights, round-headed, formed by a Norman column, and enclosed within one containing arch—a style of window which the tourist in Yorkshire will find in a good many towers of the same age. The entrance to the chancel is of plain Norman work, and consists of two square arches, the inner one resting on an engaged shaft. The nave is separated from its aisle by fine acutely pointed arches, rising from pillars alternately cylindrical and octagonal, with plain moulded capitals and bases. The spandrils of these arches bear eleven shields, 'with the armorial bearings of the early lords of the manor of Hunmanby. In the south wall of the nave there is an arched recess which has at one time contained a monumental slab or effigy ; but it is not known in whose memory it was constructed. There is a modern monument in the chancel to members of the family of Osbal-deston, with the sculptured figure of Piety leaning on an urn. There are two stained glass windows in memory of members of the Mitford family, proprietors in this district, and patrons of the church.
FLAMBOROUGH.
Inns :—The Ship, North Star, Thornunck (nearest the " Head"). From Marton Station ('bus), 2 miles; Bridlington, 8£; Filey, 11; Scarborough, 19.
Flamborough, once a town of considerable importance, is now only a fishing-village. It is, however, a place of much interest to the tourist on account of the striking coast scenery in its132 flamborough-the church—danish tower.
neighbourhood, and is often visited from Filey, Scarborough, and Bridlington. Its name seems to indicate that at an early date this bold promontory was the site of a beacon. The village is doubtless a place of much antiquity. It has been suggested that this was the Praetoriuw. of Antoninus; but Dunsley, near Whitby, seems to have stronger claims to the name of that station. There are better grounds for the opinion that Flamborough Head was the Ocelum Promontorium of Ptolemy.
The Church, dedicated to St. Oswald, the tutelar saint of fishermen, consists of nave and aisles, chancel and aisles, and a small turret at the west end. It was restored at some considerable expense in 1868, and contains a new east memorial window. The west window has its tracery and stone work complete. The interior is worth inspection. Between the nave and the chancel there is a screen of carved oak of exquisite workmanship. In the chancel there is an altar-piece representing Christ and the Doctors, painted by Robert Brown, a native of Flamborough, and presented by "him in 1829. Here also is an old monumental brass with a long poetical inscription to the memory of Sir Marmaduke Constable, Knight, who commanded the left wing of the English army at Flodden Field. The epitaph ends thus, in moralising strain :—
" But now all thes tryumphes ar passed and set on syde. For all worldly joyea they wull not long endure, They are soune passed and away dothe glyde,
And who that puttith his trust i the & call hy most usure. For when death strikcth he sparith no creature.
Nor geuith no warnyg but taketh the by one & one ; And now he abydyth godis mercy & hath no other socure. For as ye se hym, here he lieth vnder this stone.
I pray you my kynsme, lovers and frendis all, To pray to our Lord Jhesu to have marcy of my sowlL"
Sir Marmaduke's sarcophagus is in the vestry, on the other side of the wall to which the brass is attached. The font is ancient.
The Danish Tower is the name given to some small remains of an ancient tower at the west end of the town. There is no record of the time of its erection, but it is not earlier than temp. Ed. IY. The irregular mounds by which it is surrounded are perhaps the foundations of other buildings.
Flamborough Head is two miles from the village. This celebrated promontory presents the most extraordinaiy sea-viewFLAMBOROUGH HEAD.
133
on the Yorkshire coast. The cliffs, which are composed of chalk, rise perpendicularly to the height of from 300 to 450 feet. This promontoiy, though it has withstood the encroachments of the waves for ages, while the detrital deposits of the adjoining portions of the coast have been continually yielding to their violence, is not without its marks of the slower, but not less sure, effects of the action of the sea. Its rugged sides are penetrated by numerous cavferns ; and the rocks which stand in the sea, detached from the promontory, shew that, though durable as compared with the softer portions of the coast, these cliffs ha~ve yielded, and will still yield, to the assaults of the ocean. This promontory affords only two landing places, and these not always very safe ; yet here Ida the Saxon lan led with forty ships, to fight for, and win, the crown of Northumbria. On the verge of the promontory stands the lighthouse, a circular white tower, 82 feet high. The prospect from its summit (to which visitors are allowed to ascend) is very extensive in all directions. The light displayed is a revolving one, alternately red and white, and on clear nights is visible at a distance of 30 miles.
The ledges of the cliffs harbour innumerable flocks of sea-fowl, in the useless destruction of which some visitors find what they call " sport." More rational enjoyment may be derived from an examination of the many interesting features of the promontory and adjoining coast. " The Matron," " The King," and " The Queen," are the names by which the picturesque chalk rocks which stand amid the waves are commonly known. These, with the natural caverns in the rock, are highly interesting ; and boats can easily be obtained to convey the visitor to them. The caves are named—Robin Lyth's Hole, the Dovecot, and Kirk Hole. Robin Lyth's Hole is the largest and most striking. It has two openings, one from the sea and the other from the land; and the effect of the interior, as well as the view outwards to the sea, is very fine. Robin Lyth, according to one tradition, was an honest mariner who here escaped from a tempest; while according to another he holds the higher and more romantic rank of a pirate. The Dovecot Cave is named from the rock-pigeons which breed here ; and the Kirk Hole, from a tradition that it extends as far as the church.
This neighbourhood, it is almost needless to say, contains many things which will reward the industry of the naturalist and the geologist. The organic remains of the chalk are inte-134
fountains abbey-studley.
resting and valuable. Among others may be found beautiful Spongiadse, and the elegant crinoids called Marsupites and Apiocrinus.
The Danes' Dyke is an ancient work drawn across the peninsula which terminates in Flamborough Head. This great line of defence has received its name from the tradition that it was constructed by the Danes ; but there is nothing in the features of the work itself to enable the antiquarian to conclude certainly that it is of Danish origin. It is, on the contrary, by no means improbable that this singular rampart is of British construction, as it much resembles similar works attributed by antiquarians to the ancient Britons. It consists of a double line of defence, one above the other, with breastworks, and has been further strengthened by a ditch, at the southern extremity of which advantage is taken of a natural ravine. The object of this huge fortification has been to make the promontory an oppidum, or entrenched camp.
jfountams gbireg
AND STUDLEY ROYAL.
Fountains Abbey, from Bipon, 8 miles; from Harrogate, 14. May be visited every week day. Admission Is. Crates on Bipon side closed at 5 p.m.
The grounds of Studley Royal, and the ruins of the old Abbey of Fountains, present attractions unequalled by those of any similar scenes in Yorkshire. In the laying out of the grounds and walks, art has admirably accommodated itself to nature; and if sometimes the eye of taste would desiderate something less stiff and formal in a water-course, in the outline of a pond, or the position of a statue, the beauties which everywhere meet the view are such as to make any remarks on these real or fancied defects entirely hypercritical.
Pedestrian route from Bipon.—A footpath should be followed on the left shortly after crossing the river Skell. At the farther end of a plantation, about 1 mile from the town, this path crosses the bye-road to Studley, and enters the park by a stile, shortly afterwards joining the main road in the avenue, which is upwards of half-a-mile in length and lined with noble trees. At the west end of it is a handsome Catholic chapel. Looking back, Ripon Cathedral is seen through the vista of the trees.fountains abbey-the grounds.
135
Studley Royal, the seat of the Marquis of Ripon, may "be seen to the right of the middle drive, as the tourist approaches the gate which gives admission to the pleasure-grounds. By taking any of the paths leading towards the mansion, a good view of it will be obtained in a few minutes. There is nothing, however, calling for any notice about its appearance. The house is not shewn to visitors. It contains some good paintings : among them, a portrait of Dr. Johnson by Reynolds, and portraits of Lord Burleigh, Peter the Great, Charles XII., and Lady Jane Grey.
Keeping by a footpath a little to the left of the carriage drive, the tourist may come to a spot, not far from the lodge-gate, where the trees open and display a charming view of a small lake and broad water-course beyond. This is as pleasant a spot as can be desired for resting, before commencing the survey of the pleasure-grounds and ruins.
After inscribing his name in the Visitors' Book, in the lodge at the gate, the tourist enters the grounds, and will be impressed perhaps with the necessity of knowing how to proceed. He may therefore be informed at the outset that there are three ways of viewing the grounds and ruins—" the long way, the middle way, and the short way." The longest way takes about 2 J hours, and the others proportionately less. * The visitor will, therefore, choose the one that best answers to the time he has at his disposal.
The grounds are extremely interesting and pleasing. Every now and then the visitor comes to some spot from which openings among the embowering woods present charming views. Among the finest of these views are those of the Octagon Tower, on a prominent site on the other side of the valley, the Temple of Fame on the brow of the same Mil, and the Temple of Piety in a more lowly but scarcely less beautiful situation. These " temples" harmonise well with the grounds, but present nothing in their architecture to attract special notice. In them, as in various parts of the grounds, may be seen copies of some of the most noted antique sculptures. The way in which the Skell is conducted through artificially-shaped channels, made to fall over tiny cascades, and to expand into lakes, in different parts of these grounds, though formal, is not unpleasing. To many visitors, one of the most interesting features of these grounds will be the magnificent trees with which they are adorned. One tree in particular, a Norway spruce fir, is pointed out by the guide. It is 133 feet high, straight to the top, and its trunk is L2£ feet in circumfer-136
fountains abbey-its bistort.
ence. Another, canopying the Dying Gladiator, 11 feet in circumference. A noble hemlock spruce, upwards of 60 feet high, and 7 feet in circumference, will also be recommended to notice. These trees were planted, about the year 1720, by John Aislabie, Chancellor of the Exchequer, who originally planned the pleasure-grounds, and whose designs have been altered and improved by his son, and subsequent proprietors* Without detailing the different objects of interest which are successively presented to notice, the view from Ann Boletn's Seat may be referred to as, beyond doubt, the most charming prospect in these grounds. The guide goes through the somewhat theatrical trick of making his party stand in a line within the door of the arbour, when, on his suddenly throwing it open, Fountains Abbey, in the centre of a scene of exquisite beauty—forming a picture framed by the doorway—is seen for the first time. Having sufficiently feasted his eyes on this prospect, the tourist will be conducted towards the abbey, glancing, on his way, at the glade where Robin Hood fought with the stout " Curtal Friar" of Fountains, and pausing to take a draught of cold, clear water from the Well which tradition has associated with the outlaw's name.
Before proceeding to a survey of the ruins, it will be useful to give, in as brief limits as possible,''a sketch of the history of the abbey.
In the year 1132, certain monks of the Benedictine Abbey of St. Mary's, York, becoming dissatisfied with the lax discipline of their own order, conceived the design of adopting the Cistercian rule, then becoming famous for its strictness and sanctity. Thur-stan, Archbishop of York, was favourable to the proposal, which, however, was resolutely opposed by the Abbot of St. Mary's. Prior Richard and twelve monks, resolved upon carrying out their object, deserted their monastery and sought the countenance and protection of Thurstan. The Archbishop entertained them in his house for eleven weeks, after which, finding the duties of hospitality either tiresome or expensive, he gave them a site for their
• It may be worth while to state here, in a few words, the history of Studley Royal After being in the families of Aleman, Le Gras, Tempest, and Mallory, it came by marriage into the family of Aislabie, in the beginning of the eighteenth century. William Aislabie, Esq., son of the chancellor, purchased the Abbey of Fountains, &Ad added it to his ancestral estate, in 1763. From him the estate descended, In default of heirs-male, to his grand-daughter, the late Miss Lawrence, who left it to the Marquis of Ripon, one of whose ancestors married a sister of the Chancellor Aislabie.138
FOUNTAINS ABBEY-ITS HISTORY.
residence in the valley of the Skell, then fitter to be a den for wild beasts, as the chroniclers inform us, than a habitation for men. A somewhat romantic account is given of the manner of life of these monks for the two first years of their residence in Skeldale. Their lodging was under the shelter of an umbrageous elm, even in the depth of winter. Some yew trees, several of which yet survive, are said to have also afforded them a friendly though insufficient covert. Their food was of the poorest and scantiest description. Bread was a luxury ; and they were often compelled to satisfy their hunger with the leaves of trees, and herbs boiled with a little salt Still, in their poverty, they were charitable : tradition says they were always ready to share their last loaf with the stranger. Better times soon succeeded. Persons of wealth and influence joined the brotherhood ; and the monks were speedily in a position, to commence the building of their abbey. The original structure appears to have been completed before 1148 ; for we read of the monastery, along with half the oratory, being destroyed by fire in that year. The monastery was soon restored by the contributions of wealthy friends. Jolin de Ebor, the eighth abbot, laid the foundation of the choir, and erected some of its pillars (1203-1211). His successor, John Pherd, afterwards Bishop of Ely, carried on the work. John de Cancia, who died in 1246, has the-honour of completing the church. He also built the cloister, the infirmary, and a house for the entertainment of strangers. Fountains Abbey became one of the wealthiest monasteries in the kingdom. Its church was one of the most beautiful structures in the land, and the reputation for sanctity which the abbey enjoyed made many persons eager to purchase, by large donations, the right of sepulture within its walls. The lands in Craven possessed by the monastery, contained in a ring fence, were computed moderately at 60,000 acres. At the Dissolution, the annual revenues amounted to £998 : 6 : The monks were then in possession of 2356 horned cattle, 1326 sheep, 86 horses, and 79 swine, as well as large quantities of wheat, oats, hay, etc.
The origin of the name of Fountains has been explained in various ways. St. Bernard, the celebrated founder of the Cistercian order, was born at Fontaines in Burgundy ; and it is possible the monks who settled here named their abbey after the birth-place of the man who was the glory of their order. Gent, in his poem of " Studley Park," has the lines :—GROUND PLAN OF FOUNTAINS ABBEY.140
fountain's abbey-the cloister.
" T.nw in a vale, with springs well stored, and wood, Ana sovereign herbs whence failing health's renewe L A neighbouring abbey next invites the eye : Stupendous act of former piety I From streams and springs which nature here contrives, The name of Fountains this sweet place derives."
W hi taker remarks that Skell, the rivulet which washes its walls, signifies a fountain. The monastery was origin ally called the Abbey of Skeldale, which, written in Latin, became de Fontibus, and, when translated back into English, after the original name was lost sight of, was rendered Fountains.
We proceed now to an examination of the Abbey, which has been pronounced the most perfect monastic building in England The monastery is said to have covered ten or twelve acres ; but this included the orchard, gardens, etc. The ruins occupy scarcely more than two acres. The approach to them is so arranged as to afford the visitor a good general view of the building, and of the relative position of its different parts.
Crossing the Skell by an ancient bridge, built in the thirteenth century, and passing the fragments of the Gate-house, the Hospi-tium will be first reached. It consists of two separate buildings, the general character of which may be observed from the rp.Tnn.ina. The eastern house has been the larger of the two ; and its basement storey, 73 feet long and 23 wide, has been vaulted from a row of five pillars. Near this house, and built over the course of the Skell, is what is supposed to have been the Infirmary, erected, like the Hospitium, by John de Cancia.
The Cloister will be first visited, in an examination of the main body of the abbey. This covered court, which is in admirable preservation, is 300 feet long, and 42 feet wide. A row of nineteen octagonal pillars runs down the middle, and from these spring two ranges of arches supporting the roof. In 1875, part of the cloister having fallen in, the Marquis of Ripon rebuilt it, thoroughly cleaned the roof, which was the floor of the dormitory, and laid down concrete. Above the cloister, and extending its whole length, is the Dormitory. It contained forty cells, twenty on each side, with a narrow corridor between. From the cloister, the visitor may pass into the church, which, from east to west, is 351 feet.
The Church.—This part of the abbey is exceedingly interesting, both to the student of architecture and the general tourist. Few edifices, indeed, in this country or elsewhere, afford suchfountains abbey-the church.
141
ample and excellent materials as are presented by this old monastery for a comparison of different styles of Gothic architecture, and an understanding of the transition between them. The greater part of the church is late Norman, but the choir is Early English, the Lady Chapel of the same style, with some later modifications, and the tower Perpendicular.
The Nave, the oldest remaining portion of the abbey, is a fine specimen of the Norman style, at the period when the transition from the round to the pointed arch was beginning. Above the great western window, on the outside, may be observed the figure of an eagle holding a crosier, and perched on a tun, with a label incribed "dern 1494." This window was introduced by Abbot Derntun, in the place of the original Norman lights ; and the sculptor has adopted this quaint device to keep him in remembrance.* Massive pillars, 16 feet in circumference, and 23 feet high, divide the nave from the aisles. " Each bay of the aisles," says Mr. Walbran, " has been covered by a pointed but transverse vault, divided by semicircular arches, of which the imposts are placed considerably lower than those of the pillars to which they are attached. Nearly the whole of the eastern half of these aisles has been divided by lattices into chapels, of which there are some indications in the painted devices and matrices of their furniture, traceable on the piers. There has been also a wooden screen across the nave, at the seventh pillar eastward."
The Transept belongs to the same period as the nave, but presents fewer indications of the Transition style. There are four small chapels in the transept, two in the north part, and two in the south. In one of these, dedicated to St. Peter, was the tomb of Baron Roger de Mowbray, who died at Ghent in 1298, and was brought hither for interment.t Another has been dedicated to Michael the Archangel, for the inscription " Altare s'ci Michaelis arch," may yet be deciphered over its entrance. In one of the south chapels is the tomb of one of the abbots, indicated by a mutilated monumental slab, with a carving in low relief.
The Tower was originally built, in accordance with the common practice, at the intersection of the transept and nave, fragments of the arches which supported it being yet visible. Probably it was taken down on account of its insecure condition,
* The eagle is a symbol of St. John, lienca the device, which means "John Deratun, 1474."
t In 1858 this effigy was removed to the Abbey Mnsenin.142
FOUNTAINS ABBEY-THE CHURCH.
though, the period of its removal cannot he precisely ascertained. The tower now stands at the north end of the transept, instead of its intersection with the nave. It is in the pure Perpendicular style, and is regarded as a magnificent piece of architecture. The height is 168 feet 6 inches, and the base is, internally, about 25 feet square. With the exception of the floors of the several storeys which have fallen down, and the tracery of a single window which fell many years ago, the tower is as perfect and strong as when it was erected. The initials " M. H.," and the date 1494, seem to indicate that it was erected that year by Marmaduke Huby, who was abbot of Fountains from 1494 to 1526. The four sides of the tower are adorned with carved shields and inscriptions. On the east side are four armorial shields, two of them bearing the arms of the abbey (three horse-shoes, two and one). This side contains the following inscriptions :—
" Benediccio et caritas et sapiencia graciarum accio honor. Soii deo i'hu x'po honor et gl'ia in s'cla s'clor." On the north side there are two shields, and the following inscriptions :—
" Et virtus et fortitudo deo nostro in secula seculorum amen. Soli deo i'hu x'po honor et gl'ia in s'cla s'clor ame'." On the west side, there are four shields of arms, similar to those on the other sides, and the inscriptions:—
" Regi autem seculorum immortali invisili Soli deo i'hu x'po honor et gl'ia in s'cla s'clor." And on the south side there are two shields, and the inscription:— " Soli deo honor et gloria in secula seculorum amen."
The Choir is early English, with plain lancet lights ; each, however, interiorly, being under an arcade of one pointed, between two round-headed members. The tesselated pavement of the high altar, and one or two tombs, yet remain. The Lady Chapel, a continuation of the choir, is perhaps the most beautiful part of the church. " One feature of it," remarks Mr. Phillips, " is almost a miracle, the slender octagonal pillars of vast height, which bear the lofty arches connected with the clerestory of the nave.". The great east window is most magnificent in style and proportions. It has lost all its tracery, but appears to have had nine lights and a transom. The height of the window is 60 feet, and the breadth 23^. A fanciful rendering of the name of thefountains abbey-refectory-chapter-ho use. 143
abbot Derntun, similar to that previously observed at the great western, window, leads us to suppose that the windows in the Lady Chapel, which are in style more recent than the building itself, were made by him. Some interesting sculptured details may be observed here. An extension of the Lady Chapel, right and left, forms a kind of transept. This is called the Chapel of the Nine Altars. The remains of six of these have been discovered in the course of excavations. They are said to have been instituted by John de Cancia.
The Quadrangular Court may be entered by a door at the south-east angle of the nave. It is about 128 feet square, and has formed a much more agreeable promenade than the cloister. A cedar of Lebanon grows in this court. A large octagonal stone basin may be observed here. It was probably used by the monks as a lavatory ; but in more recent times it has been employed as a cider mill.
The Refectory is on the south side of the cloister court just noticed. It is a very beautiful structure in the early English style. The entrance is by a handsome receding circular arch, which appears to be the only piece of Norman work in this part of the building. The windows are pointed, some of them more than others. The dining-hall is 109 feet long and 46 wide. A row of columns in the middle has supported the roof. The buttery, kitchen, and other apartments adjoining the refectory are worth notice.
The Frater-House, the next building eastward from the kitchen, is a fine vaulted apartment in the transition Norman style, 104 feet long and 29 wide. It communicates with the Cellar (59 feet long and 18 wide—very ample dimensions for *a society of monks who established themselves on the principles of strictness and mortification !) and the Brew-house (30 feet by 18). A hoard of silver money was found under the arch of the watercourse, at the eastern end of the brew-house, during the recent excavation- There were 354 pieces, ranging from the time of Philip and Mary to that of Charles L The Court-Mouse, or Hall of Pleas, reached by a spacious staircase from the south-east angle of the quadrangular cloister-court, contains some interesting relics and casts.
The Chapter-House, which adjoins the south transept of the church, is an exceedingly interesting building. Mr. Walbran. says that it is of a date between the transept and the early English choir, but bears no local assimilation of style to any contempo-144 fountains abbey—abbot's house— fountains hall.
rury building of the abbey. It is rather more than 84 feet long and 41 wide. Probably it was erected by Richard Fastolph, the sixth abbot, who had previously been prior of Clarevale in France. The foundations of columns, which formerly divided the chapter-house into- three aisles, have been discovered, and the benches on which the members of the chapter sat may still be seen. It has been ascertained that no fewer than nineteen abbots are buried in the chapter-house. Several of their monumental slabs may be seen, the carvings and inscriptions all more or less obliterated. Two inscriptions which have been deciphered are given as follows:—"hi. reqiescit: dompnvs. joh's x:
ABBAS. DE FONTIBV'. QVJ. OBIJT. VII KL DECEMBRIS." ; and, " + HI. REQIESCIT DOMPNUS JOH's XII ABBAS DE FONTIB' gl: OBIJT."...
The former of these is supposed to be the tomb of John of Kent, and the latter that of John of York. Above the chapter-housc were the Library and Scriptorium.
The Abbot's House, the foundations of which have been recently excavated, deserves a careful inspection. The house was pulled down in 1611 by Sir Stephen Proctor, to obtain materials for building Fountains Hall. It is built over the channel of the Skell, which is ingeniously arched with four parallel tunnels, each nearly 300 feet long. The principal apartment was the Ghreat Hall, which, in Mr. Walbran's opinion, " has been unquestionably one of the most spacious and' magnificent apartments ever erected in the kingdom." It is 171 feet long and 70 wide, and appears to have been divided by eighteen cylindrical columns into a nave and two aisles. From various indications in its foundations, and some remains that have been dug up, the hall seems to have been in. the same style as the Lady Chapel. The range of buildings that has adjoined the eastern wall of the great hall, beginning with that to the north, appears to have consisted of the Storehouse, the Chapel, and the Kitchen. On the other side of the hall has been a small building, probably a Refectwy. The tourist will hardly leave these ruins without taking a glance at the three Cells, or places of confinement, a little farther west, adjoining what has been the Base Court. Neither should the visitor depart without taking a look at Fountains Hall.
Fountains Hall is situated about 200 yards west of the abbey. It was built by Sir Stephen Proctor, out of the materials of the abbot's house, at an expense of <£3000. The aspect of the hall is antique and pleasing, but not very remarkable. Thefountains abbey—aldfield.
145
dining-room is hung with faded tapestry, representing various subjects from classical mythology. The chapel has a sculpture of the Judgment of Solomon over the fireplace, and numerous armorial bearings in stained glass. Over the chief entrance, between family crests, is inscribed the motto, Rim trovant gaineray tovt*
The old Yew Tree will be pointed out by the guide, when the visitor is on this side of the ruins. Of the original seven, only one remains, which is believed to be at least 1200 years old.
Here, too, may be seen the Monks' Corn Mill, a picturesque object, with its wheel still going merrily round, though those who set it in motion have long since passed away.
How Hill, in the immediate vicinity, formerly belonged to Fountains Abbey. It was surmounted with a chapel called St. Michael de Monte. Upon the site of this edifice, in 1718, Mr. Aislabie built a small Gothic tower, from which an extensive view and pleasing prospect of the great plain of York can be obtained.
Not far from Studley is the village of Aldfield, where there is a sulphuretted spring of some value. This spa is situated very picturesquely in the valley of the Skell. The following is an analysis of its contents. A gallon of the water gave—
Carbonate of lime . Carbonate of magnesia Sulphate of magnesia Muriate of soda Muriate of magnesia
12*5 grains. 8-5 6-208-96-
325'
Carbonic acid Nitrogen Sulphuretted hydrogen	SI
0' cubic inches. 4-
81'
The water, which was discovered in 1698, resembles in taste, smell, and general appearance, the sulphuretted springs in other parts of the country, and if it were not so near Harrogate, it might be more highly prized.
By extending his excursion a little further, the tourist may reach the Lak.es of High Grantley (distant from Ripon 6 miles), which, though not large, are really picturesque, and deserving of a visit.
* By ascending some steps between the hall and the west entrance to the Abbey the pedestrian may return by a footpath which re-enters the park near the Catholic Chapel.
Ii146
QUISBOROUGH FBIOBT.
i&utetaoujjfj ^riorg.
Inks In Golsborough -.—Watson's Hotel: The Buik.
From Mlddlesborough, 10 m.; Saltbnm, 6 m.; Redcar, 8 miles.
The town of Quisborough ia within convenient access of Saltburn, Redcar, and Middlesborough by the branch lines of the N.-E. Railway. It is little more than an hour's walk from Roseberry Topping. Situated in a narrow but fertile valley in the most beautiful part of Cleveland, it possesses, in its ancient priory and the scenery of the surrounding district, considerable attractions to the tourist.
Quisborough consists chiefly of one long street of well-built houses. Of late years the town has been increasing considerably in size and population, though not in quiet and attractiveness, through the growth of the trade in iron-ore, which is mined very extensively in this neighbourhood. Camden says regarding Quisborough :—" The place is really fine, and may for pleasantness, a curious variety, and its natural advantages, compare "with Puteoli in Italy ; and, for a healthful and agreeable situation, it certainly far surpasses it." It is deserving of mention that Guis-borough was the first place in England where alum-works were erected. Sir Thomas Chaloner brought skilled workmen from Italy for the purpose, in the reign of Queen Elizabeth.
The Priory is beautifully situated near the eastern extremity of the town. No one can look upon the stately ruins of this beautiful Abbey, without regretting that so little of it has been preserved, but everything has been done, especially recently, to recover what was lost, by Admiral Chaloner, the proprietor of the Quisborough estate, who has employed a number of workmen in clearing away the accumulation of rubbish that covered the foundations and floors, and the discoveries that were made in the choir of the church (which Bince the Dissolution in 1540 had been entirely buried) were of great historical interest. Tesselated pavements, heraldic tiles, painted glass, monuments, sepulchral slabs, mouldings, coinB, and other relics were discovered aboutGUISBOROUGH PRIORY.
147
three feet beneath the present sward, which did not "correspond with the original floor of the abbey church.
At the time of the Reformation, Guisborough was one of the wealthiest, most magnificent, and extensive monastic institutions in the kingdom. The first church had been founded in 1119, by Robert Lord de Bruce, a most powerful baron in the north, whose father, after taking a distinguished part at the battle of Hastings in 1066, was sent by William to subdue Yorkshire, Durham, and Northumberland, and for his services was rewarded by the Conqueror at the time of the Doomsday Survey with ninety-one lordships in Yorkshire. Walter de Hemmingford, who was a canon of this monastery, and one of the choicest historians of the 14th century, tells us that in 1289 this monastery, with all its books, plate, and vestments, was destroyed by fire. A new church was erected shortly after by the princely grants and donations of the neighbouring nobility ; and it was among the ruins that now remain that the excavations referred to were made. At the Reformation the work of destruction commenced, and the recent discoveries show traces of the fierce passion, religious rancour, and wanton destruction which then took place.
Among the ruins and under the green sward lie the stone coffins of many eminent and illustrious men, the nobility and gentry of this rich neighbourhood, including the founder, his family, and descendants for several generations ; the progenitors of the Percys of Northumberland ; Nevil, Earl of Kent ; the Lords Fauconberg, Annandale, Latimer, Darcy, Mauley, Thweng, Talbot, Eure, Bulmer, Meynell, and no less distinguished a person than Robert de Bruce, Lord of Annandale, the competitor for the throne of Scotland with JoEn Baliol, and the grandfather of the great champion of Scottish freedom, King Robert Bruce. Hemmingford, whose Chronicles have been before referred to, states that he died in 1294, " at Lochmaben, in bis own territory of Annandale, and as he ordered when alive he was buried in the priory "of Guisborough with great homage, beside his own father, on the 16 th of ApriL" Immediately before the high altar a quantity of heraldic tiles was discovered, on which were the arms of Bruce, and a few inches beneath the pavement a stone coffin in the very centre of the choir, and at the foot of the steps on which the high altar is presumed to have stood. This coffin148
GUISBOROTJGH PRIORY.
was 6 ft. 8 in. by 2 ft. 2 in., and probably contained the remains of the competitor or the founder. Over it had stood the beautiful black marble cenotaph which Dugdale in his " Monasticon " engraved in 1660, and which has since been removed into the parish church. The skeleton was that of a tall and aged man; the teeth were considerably decayed, and this also agreed with Dugdale's description of him. No trace of a ring, chalice, paten, or any other relic or substance whatever was observed. This coffin lay on the foundation of the first church. On the left at a distance of about 12 feet, lay another stone coffin, in which a complete skeleton was found. The heraldic tiles discovered in this portion of the church were of great beauty.
About 170 feet from the east window the workmen came upon what appeared to be portions of the central tower, just in the state in which it had fallen. Under the solid masonry, which had been thrown down in great masses, there were three large monumental slabs six inches thick and nine feet six inches long, and four feet five inches broad ; at a depth of five feet from the surface, the skeleton of a man was found in the remains of an oak coffin. This skeleton was measured by Dr. Merry-wether of Guisborough, and was six feet eight inches. Two circular bronze buckles, like those displayed in the heraldry of the 14th century, were found. Apparently they had been used to fasten the materials in which the body had been swathed. On the centre slab was this inscription in. fine black letters, deeply cut, of about the middle of the 15th century—Sit. Pai ffiterna {Eecum Utctote JSuperrta. Under this slab was a stone coffin much broken by the fall of the masonry from above. In this coffin was a bronze buckle similar to the one just described, but of a stouter material. In the same coffin, on the feet of the skeleton, were a pair of sandals, which may have belonged to a canon who had been buried in his vestments, of which there were also some remains. De Bruce and many of his descendants are buried here. The monastery was dedicated to the "Virgin Maiy, and its inmates to St. Augustine. The eastern end of the church is the only part of the priory which remains. This front is about 100 feet in length, and is supported by four massive buttresses. Its main feature is the magnificent east window, an exquisite example of the purest style of Pointed architecture. TheVICINITY OF GUISBOROUGH.
149
wall beneath, the window has been broken down to the ground, but the lofty arch still preserves its superb outline unmutilated. and the fragments of tracery in its sweep add to its picturesque-ness. In the pediment above is a small window of five lights. On either side is a window of smaller dimensions. These windows have lighted the aisles of the chancel, and have contained fine tracery. The buttresses are surmounted by octagonal crocketed pinnacles, which have a fine effect. Those next the central window are ornamented with niches, under crocketed canopies. None of the other existing fragments of the priory are of any importance.
The principal buildings of the town are, the Church, which, though partly rebuilt in 1791, has some remains of an ancient structure—the most important being the fine east window ; and the Free Grammar School. The population is 5859.
About a mile distant, to the south-east, there is a sulphureous spring, efficacious in cutaneous, rheumatic, and bilious complaints. The spa and baths are charmingly situated. This spring was discovered in 1822.
The neighbourhood of Guisborough is attractive. Bamaby Moor or Eston Nab, a hill 784 feet high, is between two and three miles to the north. Besides the fine prospect which this eminence affords, the remains of its ancient camp, and its modern quarries and iron-stone pits, are sufficiently interesting to repay a visit. Roseberry Topping, a more striking hill, four miles to the south-west, is still more deserving of ascent. Though the summit is only 1022 feet high, it commands a vast extent of country. From the sea the eye may sweep round to the headlands of Northumberland, dimly seen through the smoke of the Durham coal-fields, to Mickle Fell, and the bold hills of the west, and over the brown moors to the south, taking in many spots of interest in the intervening distance* Roseberry Topping is ad-
• Graves, in his " History of Cleveland" (p. 217), quotes from an ancient MS. In the Cotton Library, to which both Camden and Speed are believed to have been in debted, an account of the prospect from Roseberry Topping:—" There you may see a vewe, the like whereof I never saw, or thinke that any traveller hath seene any comparable unto yt, albeit I have shewed yt to divers that have paste through a great parte of the worlde, both by sea and land. The vales, rivers, greate and small, swelinge hylls and mountaynes, pastures, meadowes, comefields, parte of the Bishop-ricke of Durham, with the new porte of Tease lately found to be safe, and the sea replenyshed with shippes, and a most pleasant flatt coaste, subjecte to no inundation or hazarde, make that country happy if the people had the grace to make use of their owne happinesse, which may be unended if it please God to send them trafique and good example of thrifte."150 vicinity Off guisborough-marton-whorlton.
ditionally interesting on account of the ancient British huts, tht remains of which may still be seen ranged in a double series round its summit.
Marton, 7 miles west from Guisborough, or about 2 from Ormesby station is worthy of mention as the birthplace of Captain Cook, the celebrated circumnavigator of the globe. He was born November 3, 1728, and killed at Owyhee in an affray with the natives, February 14, 1779. The house in which he was born has disappeared ; but the place where it stood is still pointed out as " Cook's Garth." The village has little besides its associations of the intrepid voyager to interest the tourist. Its church is modern, and pleasantly situated. A monument, in the shape of a tall column, was erected to Cook's memory on Easby heights, several miles south of Roseberry Topping, in 1827.
Stokesley, a town of between eight and nine thousand inhabitants, nine miles distant by road, and about twice that distance by rail, manufactures linen, paper, and gunpowder. The environs are pleasant. In the churchyard of Great Ayton, between three and four miles distant, Captain Cook's mother and some of his brothers and sisters are buried.
At Whorlton, five miles from Stokesley, on the Thirsk road, there are some small remains of a castle. In the Church there is a monument to the memory of Sir Nicholaus de Meynill It bears his recumbent effigy carved in oak, much mutilated. The tomb is adorned with coats of arms, and is surmounted with an arched canopy, with buttresses at the sides, broken at the tops.
There are several elegant residences in the neighbourhood of Guisborough; but none of them are of any general interest, with the exception of Skelton Castle, three miles distant, to the northeast. This is a place of great antiquity, though we find few remains of the old fortified mansion of the Fauconbergs. This seat was at one time the property of John Hall Stevenson, author of " Crazy Tales," " Fables for Grown Gentlemen," &c. He was the intimate friend of Sterne, who has depicted him in the character of Eugenius in " Tristram Shandy."
HACKFALL. In the Vicinity of Ripon. HACKNESS. In the Vicinity of Scarborough.HALIFAX.
151
HALIFAX.
Hotels.—The White Swan, White Lion, Upper George, Griffin, Crown, Talbot, Maude's Temperance.
Distances.—From Bradford, 8 miles; Huddersfleld, 10} (7 by road); Leeds, 16J; Manchester, 36; Liverpool, 67; Hull, 67; London, 193. Market-Day.—Saturday.
Situated on the slope of an eminence rising above the river Hebble, Halifax seems to have existed long before the Con-152
HALIFAX.
quest, there being sufficient proofs, according to Leyland's History of Halifax, of its being the second station on the Roman road from Doncaster to Richborough. In the civil wars it waa garrisoned by the Parliamentarians ; and at that period an obstinate action took place in the neighbourhood, the scene of which is called Bloody Field to this day.
From early times the inhabitants, not only of the hamlet of Halifax, but of the whole forest of Hardwick, which formed a portion of the present parish of Halifax, possessed the power of criminal jurisdiction. In the exercise of this power they employed what has been called Gibbet Law, whereby the stealer of goods to the value of Is. l£d. ran the risk of having his " head cut from his body." The name " Gibbet Street" preserves the memory of this, and the place of execution can still be seen a little off the thoroughfare. Executions were very numerous—a fact which may serve to account for the proverbial petition of thieves and vagabonds, " From Hell, Hull,* and Halifax, good Lord deliver us !" The gibbet axe, or " Maid of Halifax," is preserved in a jail of the lord of the manor (Duke of Leeds) for the imprisonment of debtors.
There are several eminent names connected, by birth or otherwise, with Halifax. Henry Briggs, the mathematician, was born here in 1556, and died at Oxford, where he was Savilian professor, in 1630. At Haughend, in this parish, Archbishop Tillotson was born in 1630. A statue of him stands in the chancel of Sowerby church. Sir Henry Savile, an accomplished scholar and author, waa born at Bradley, in this parish, in 1549. Daniel Defoe, although not a native, was for some time a r^pi-dent in Halifax. It is said that he composed " Robinson Crusoe " during his stay here. Farrar, bishop of St. David's, sent to the stake in 1655 ; and Lake, bishop of Chichester, one of the seven who "threw down the gauntlet" to James II., were Halifax men. Sir John Herschell was the first organist of the parish church.
Halifax derives its importance from its extensive manufactures of woollen goods. The spinning-jenny was introduced about the year 1790. Among the articles manufactured are— carpets, cashmeres, orleanses, coburgs, merinoes, lastings, alapacas, damasks, baizes, narrow and broad cloths, kerseymeres, muslin-* Hull was noted for the strictness of its police and secureness of its gaol.halifax.
153
de-laines, shalloons, fancy waistcoatings, etc. The Cloth Hall, also called the Piece Hall, and now the Market Hall, is a range of buildings surrounding a large court or square. The changes which have taken place in the manner of trading render the old title a misnomer. The rooms are now let for the storage of goods, vegetables, etc. ; and the court is used as a wholesale fruit and vegetable market. Here, too, takes place the quinquennial gathering of Sunday scholars, a very great event in Halifax. There are several very large factories, the most extensive and important being that of Messrs. Crossley, in which upwards of 3000 persons are employed in connection with the carpet manufacture.
The borough of Halifax, with an area of 3704 acres, contained a population, in 1871, of 65,124 persons. It is represented in Parliament by two members.
The town is built partly of brick and partly of stone. It contains many public buildings deserving of examination.
The Parish Church is a large and handsome structure (of the 15th century) in the later English style, with a massive tower surmounted by pinnacles. The interior is 196 feet in length, and 61 in breadth, and consists of nave, chancel, aisle, and two chapels. The church is supposed to have been originally built by the Earl of Warren and Surrey in the reign of Henry I. It is possible, however, that a church was consecrated here by Paulinus. The ceiling is adorned with the armorial bearings of the several incumbents. The baptismal font is a fine old octagonal basin, with a beautiful carved spiral cone, 16 feet in height. A carved oak screen of much beauty stands between the chancel and the nave. There are several monuments. Two in the south aisle of the nave, to members of the family of Rawson, are by Westmacott. There is another marble monument by the same artist on the south side of the altar, to the memory of H. W. Coulthurst, D.D. The east window has a beautiful reredos of sculptured Yorkshire stone. There is a fine hexagonal oak pulpit, given by sons of the late vicar, Archdeacon Musgrave, to whom a monument has been placed in the south aisle of the chancel. The organ is particularly good, and the belfry contains 14 bells of excellent tone.
The church was thoroughly rebuilt in 1879 from designs by Sir Gilbert Scott, at a cost of £16,000.154
halifax.
All Souls' Church, on Haley Hill, erected at the expense of E. Akroyd, Esq. of Halifax, and consecrated in 1859, ranks next in point of interest to the Parish Church. Consisting of nave, aisles, transepts, and chancel, having chapels on the north and south sides, with a very graceful tower and spire, 236 feet in height, at the north-west angle, and a sacristy at the north-east, it is a very beautiful example of the style of the latter half of the thirteenth century. The nave is divided from its aisles on either side by five pointed arches rising from quadruple columns, with moulded bases and richly sculptured capitals. The clerestory range is of fifteen lights, under a beautiful continuous arcade, and has a series of medallions with the heads of the early fathers of the church- Every part of the church is constructed in the most substantial manner of carefully selected stone, the shafts being of granite, Derbyshire or Devonshire marble, according to their position. Italian marbles, serpentine, and alabaster, are also freely used in the ornamentation of the different parts of the edifice. The chancel is richly decorated. The east window is of five lights, with geometric tracery, and is filled, as are all the other windows, with fine stained glass. The timber roof is elegantly decorated, and the flooring is of encaustic tiles. A pulpit of Caen stone and various marbles ; a reredos of alabaster and a font of serpentine contribute to the ornamental character of the interior of the church. It is provided with a fine peal of eight bells.
There are many other churches in Halifax more or less deserving of notice, and several handsome Dissenting places of worship, of which the most important is the Independent Church, near the railway station. The style adopted is the most ornate description of the Decorated. The building is cruciform, consisting of nave, cloisters, and transepts, with a tower and elaborately crocketed spire, rising to a height of 235 feet at the intersection of the nave with the south transept. The east window, which is 36 feet high, is of seven lights, and contains rich tracery. The sculptured details of the architecture are rich and tasteful, and the interior fittings are very handsome. All the windows are filled with stained glass.
During the last few years extensive improvements in the way of new streets and buildings have been planned and partly executed in the town. The principal public buildings are :—halifax.
155
The Town Hall, completed in 1863, after the designs of Sir Charles Barry, occupying a detached site ; but the proximity of lofty buildings considerably detracts from its general effect. The architecture displays a mixture of styles, the Classical being combined with the Gothic. The building has a lofty tower and spire, with a gallery round the upper part of the latter.
The Infirmary has a handsome Grecian portico and pediment. The Museum, a neat building externally, is deserving of a visit. The Oddfellows' Hall has an elegant portico of four columns. Other buildings deserving of notice are—the Banks, Swan Hotel, Mechanics' Institution, Baths, Theatre, Masonic Hall, and Drill Hall.
Charities.—Waterhousds, a very handsome set of buildings, forming three sides of a quadrangle, erected in 1855, situate near Trinity Church. Crossley's, between Hopwood Lane and Lister Lane, forms a handsome range of 22 houses in the "Domestic Gothic " style. They were erected and endowed by the late Sir Francis Crossley, M.P. Those erected by Mr. Joseph Crossley, of similar architecture, are still more extensive.
The magnificent pile of buildings on Skircoat Moor is the Crossley Orphan Home, erected and endowed by the three brothers, Francis, John, and Joseph Crossley. Here, two or three hundred children are boarded, clothed, and educated in the most liberal manner.
On the edge of Skircoat Moor is Wainliouse's Tower, a conspicuous object from the Manchester railway.
At Ward's End there is a bronze equestrian statue of the late Prince Consort
The Free Grammar School (founded 1585) is in the suburb called Heath. New buildings have now taken the place of the old School house, and nothing remains of the Elizabethan building except the curious Apple and Pear Window preserved in the Drill Shed, and a lectern made out of an oak beam.
Parks.—The People's Park, between King Cross Lane and Hopwood Lane, was laid out by Sir Joseph Paxton, and presented to the town by Sir. F. Crossley. Savile Park, on Skircoat Moor, was presented some years ago by Henry Savile, Esq., lord of the manor. Near to this, on the edge of the rocks, is a fine road, called the Albert Promenade.156
HARRO&ATK
HARROGATE.
Hotels.—The principal hotels are—east of the station—the Granby and the Queen in High Harrogate ; west of the station, the Prospect and the Prince of Wales in Central Harrogate ; the Crown Wells House and the White Hart in Low Harrogate. The ordinary charges at these fashionable hotels are :— Lodging and board, 8s. to 9s. 6d. per day; in private, Is. extra. Dressing-rooms, 10s. 6d. per week. Private apartments, one to six guineas per week. Fires, Is. to Is. 6d. per day. Servants, 4s. Gd. to 5s. per day. Attendance, Is. 6d. per day. Bed-rooms charged extra if not occupied for a certain number of nights (4 tp 7). There are other hotels deserving of notice, which are scarcely, if at all, inferior to those already mentioned, while they are somewhat lower in their charges. Among those are Barber's George Hotel, Binns, the Adelphi, and the Wellington in Low Harrogate; the Royal, the Alexandra, the Commercial, the Clarendon, the Somerset, and the Station (North-Eastern) in Central Harrogate; and Gas-coigne's in High Harrogate, besides others of humbler pretensions. Private lodgings of every description are to be had in the town. Omnibuses and cabs at the station convey visitors to any part of the town. Harrogate, from London, 198J miles ; Edinburgh, 206J; Manchester, 58 ; Liverpool, 89}; Birmingham, 97 ; Scarborough, 61} ; Leeds, 16; Hull vid York, 59}.
Like many other fashionable spas, Harrogate can boast of no antiquity. It was almost unknown till about a century and a half ago, though the oldest of its mineral springs was discovered in 1576. Indeed, it is only about eighty years since Smollett, in " Humphrey Clinker," described Harrogate as a" wild common, bare and bleak, without tree or shrub, or the least signs of cultivation." The appearance of Harrogate has been much improved since Smollett's time; but, to some people, the expanse of grass, unrelieved by trees, that lies spread out in front of High Harrogate, may still have (particularly in the hot summer months) rather too much of the bare and unsheltered aspect of a common. Medical accounts of the qualities and virtues of the Harrogate waters appeared as early as the beginning of the seventeenth century; but it was only slowly that the place came into public notice. Mineral springs have been discovered from time to time, several having been added to_ the now numerous list since the beginning of the present century. Harrogate is now visited annually by large numbers of persons, in pursuit of health or pleasure.
The distinguishing peculiarity of Harrogate, especially of High Harrogate, which is the more fashionable part of the town, is its complete openness to the sunshine and the greenBxbliatLeilrjr A SL C. "R1»KcffnTn-rr^KHARROGATE-PRINCIPAL BUILDINGS.
157
fields. A broad, unenclosed tract of ground stretches in front of the main line of houses. This ground is secured by Act of Parliament (1770) from ever being built on ; provision being thus made for preserving the freshness and charm of a rural position and prospect, in conjunction with all the appliances and advantages of the most aristocratic and artificial life.
" Who can cavil," says Dr. Granville in his " Spas of England," at the nature, genuineness, and efficacy of the Harrogate waters 1 On the other hand, who has not cavilled at the waters of both Leamington and Cheltenham ? Those of Harrogate are unsophisticated, because the place remains as it was ! You dip your cup into the fountain head, and get your strong waters. Harrogate, in fact, is a true and genuine spa."
Harrogate (population, 7,000) consists of two scattered villages, which, as the watering-place has continued to prosper, have gradually been connected by continuous ranges of handsome houses. There are no buildings which claim notice on account of their antiquity.
The Churches are four in number. St. Mary's, Low Harrogate, is the oldest of them, having been erected in 1824. In High Harrogate are Christ Church, on the Common, and St. John's at Bilton, the latter built in 1856, at the sole cost of William Sheepshanks, Esq. St. Peter's, the newest and handsomest of the Harrogate churches, is between the station and Parliament Street. There are various other places of worship, among which may be noted the Wesleyan Chapel in West End Park, and the Roman Catholic Chapel.
Besides the Hotels, several of which are very handsome, there are many elegant private houses built for the accommodation of visitors, and some good shops. The pump-rooms, baths, pleasure-grounds, etc., are in a style worthy of the high reputation of Harrogate as a watering-place.
The principal place of recreation in Harrogate is the Spa Concert Room and Pleasure Grounds, situated at the lower end of Parliament Street, and near the new Victoria Baths. Here, besides the Concert Hall, is a spacious colonnade of glass, in which is the famous chalybeate spring. Attached to the building is a pleasaunce of 5 or 6 acres, affording opportunities for croquet, lawn-tennis, and other games.
There is a large Promenade Boom in connection with the158
harrogate—the mineral waters.
Victoria Baths and Pump-Tloom. There are all the usual means of passing the time pleasantly or profitably, such as billiard-rooms, reading-rooms, libraries, etc. There is a race-course on the Stray, but it is seldom used except for exercising horses.
But, after all, the great charm of Harrogate to the tourist consists in the large number of places and objects of interest which may be conveniently reached from it. Knaresborough, York, Fountains Abbey, Ripon Cathedral, Boroughbridge, and Bolton Abbey, as well as numberless places of less importance which will repay a visit, are all within a circuit of eighteen miles. Carriages of all kinds can readily be had for excursions ; and many of the places of interest lie within easy walking distance of railway stations.
Two newspapers containing lists of the visitors are published weekly in Harrogate during the season.
The Mineral Waters are saline, sulphureous, and chalybeate. Some of the springs possess all these qualities to a greater or less extent. For a full account of the properties of these waters, the tourist must be referred to the medical works that have been published regarding them. Persons in good health can readily drink the water of any of these springs ; but invalids should not use them without previously " obtaining medical advice. It will- be sufficient for the plan of this work to give a brief account of the principal springs, with a chemical analysis of their ingredients.
The Tevrit Well was discovered by "one Mr. William Slingsby," about the year 1570, and was afterwards named by Dr. Timothy Bright " the English Spaw." It is situated on the common, to the east side of the Prince of Wales Hotel, and near the Leeds and Harrogate road. A quaint writer has observed, that " it occasions the retention of nothing that should be evacuated, and, by relaxation, evacuates nothing that should be re-, tained ; that it dries nothing but what's too moist and flaccid, and heats nothing but what's too cold, and i contra; that, though no doubt there are some accidents and objections to the contrary, it makes the lean fat, the fat lean, cures the cholick, and melancholy, and the vapours; and that it cures all aches speedily, and cheereth the heart" It is a pity that a spring with such virtues should not be more fashionable. The following is Professor Hofmann's analysis of this water. A gallon of it contains—HARROGATE-THE MINERAL WATERS.
159
Solid Contents.	grs.
Sulphate of lime	.697
Carbonate of lime .	1.435
Carbonate of magnesia	2.667
Chloride of potassium	1.323
Chloride of sodium .	.280
Bromide of sodium .	trace
Iodide of sodium	trace
Carbonate of potasss	1.057
Ammonia.	trace
Carbonate of iron .	1.358
Carbonate of manganese .	trace
Silica	1.041
Organic matter	.663
	11.021
Gaseous Contents.	c. In.
Carbonic acid .	11.85
Oxygen	0.40
Nitrogen	5.63
17.78
The Royal Chalybeate or Sweet Spa, sometimes erroneously called St. John's Well, was discovered in 1631 by Dr. Stanhope of York. It is about a quarter of a mile from the Tewit "Well. Dr. Stanhope introduced the new spa to the public by a' now rare pamphlet, entitled, " Cures without Care, or a summons to all such as find little or no help from the use of Physick, to repair to the Northern Spaw." Professor Hofmann found a gallon of this water to contain—
Solid Contents. Sulphate of lime
Carbonate of lime . Carbonate of magnesia Carbonate of potassae Chloride of sodium . Carbonate of soda Carbonate of iron Silica
Organic matter
grs. .307 2.264 3.039 .991 1.543 1 338 .609 trace trace
10.091
Gaseous Contents. Carbonic acid . Carbonetted hydrogen Oxygen Nitrogen .
c. in. 14.95 .15 .67 6.35
22.12
The Old Sulphur Well stands in the centre of Low Harrogate. This very valuable mineral water is covered by an elegant pump-room. There are three springs, differing in strength, one of which is generally covered up. This well was discovered about the year 1656 ; but for a good many years its water was only used externally. In 1700 it had come to be very generally used, both externally and internally, and its beneficial effects in scorbutic and other diseases were well known. It is now universally admitted that sulphureous waters are of great value in scrofula and cutaneous diseases. In such cases, therefore, as well as in pro-160
HARROQATE-THE MITRAL WATERS.
moting the natural excretions, this well is invaluable. The following is Hofmann's analysis :—
Solid Contents.	grs.	Gaseous Contents.	c. in.
Sulphate of lime	.182	Carbonic acid .	22.03
Carbonate of lime	12.365	Carbonetted hydrogen	5.84
Fluoride of calcium	trace	Sulphuretted hydrogen	6.31
Chloride of calcium	SI. 735	Oxygen	-
Chloride of magnesium	55.693	Nitrogeij .	2.01
Chloride of potassium	64.701		
Chloride of sodium .	866.180		
Sulphide of sodium .	15.479		
Bromide of sodium .	trace		
Iodide of sodium	trace		
Carbonate of iron	trace		
Carbonate of manganese .	trace		
Silica	.246		
Organic matter	trace		
Ammonia	trace		
	1096.581		96.09
The terms of subscription at this well are, for one person—a day, 3d.; a week, Is.; three weeks, 2s. 6d.; a month, 3s.; the season, 7s. For a family—a week, 4s.; three weeks, 10s.; a month, 12s.; the season, 20s. Those who cannot, or do not choose to pay for the water, may help themselves at the pump without the walls.
The Montpelier Pamp-Room, and Baths are about 100 yards east of the old wells. The building is in the Chinese style. The oldest sulphur spring was discovered in 1822 by the proprietor of the Crown Hotel, in whose grounds it is situated. These waters are open to visitors at a fixed rate of charges, higher than those quoted above. The following is Hofmann's analysis of a gallon of the " Montpelier Strong Sulphur Well:"—
Solid Contents.	grs.	Gaseous Contents.	c. in.
Sulphate of lime	.594	Carbonic acid .	14.01
Carbonate of lime	24.182	Carbonetted hydrogen	.63
Fluoride of calcium	trace	Sulphuretted hydrogen	_
Chloride of calcium	61.910	Oxygen	.48
Chloride of magnesium	64.667	Nitrogen .	4. 82
Chloride of potassium	6.750		
Chloride of sodium .	803.093		
Bromide of sodium .	—		
Iodide of sodium	—		
Sulphide of sodium .	14.414		
Carbonate of iron .	trace		
Carbonate of manganese.	trace		
Ammonia	trace		
Silioa	1.846		
Organic matter	trace		
	966.456		19.84habrogate—the mineral waters.	161
The " Montpelier Mild Sulphur Well" contains little more than a quarter of the solid ingredients of the " strong " spring, as may be seen from the following analysis:—
Solid Contents.	grs.	Gaseous Contents.	c. in.
Sulphate of lime	12.104	Carbonio acid	14.28
Carbonate of lime	20.457	Carbonetted hydrogen	.90
Fluoride of calcium	trace	Sulphuretted hydrogen	—
Carbonate of magnesia	3.251	Oxygen	—
Chloride of magnesium	17.140	Nitrogen	7.67
Chloride of potassium	8.975		
Chloride of sodium .	232.413		
Bromide of sodium .	trace		
Iodide of sodium	trace		
Sulphide of sodium.	3.398		
Carbonate of iron .	trace		
Carbonate of manganese.	trace		
Silica	.165		
Ammonia	trace		
Organic matter	trace		_
	292.903		22.85
Muspratt's Chalybeate or Chloride of Iron Spring is situated at what are sometimes called the Cheltenham Gardens. The Pump-Room here is a spacious and elegant building in the Doric style, with a fine saloon, used as a promenade, a reading and concert room. One of the mineral springs here is noted for its iron property; and takes its name from the late Dr. Muspratt, the famous chemist, who has left us the following analysis of the mineral ingredients contained in a gallon:—
Solid Contents.	grs.	Gaseous Contents.	O. 111.
Chloride of iron	16.011	Carbonio acid	25.40
Chloride of sodium .	208.468	Nitrogen	7.65
Chloride'of calcium .	133.642		
Chloride of magnesium	84.716		
Chloride of barium .	7.717		
Chloride of potassium	4.013		
Chloride of lithium .	trace		
Carbonate of iron	10.842		
Total In Grains	465.400	Total	. 82.95
There are also at this pump-room two other springs—viz. a mild sulphureous with alkaline ingredients, and the so-called magnesia water.
m162
HARROGATE—BATHS.
At Harlow Oar, upwards of a mile from the Prince of Wales Hotel, oil the road to Otley, are three sulphur springs and one chalybeate, which are of much value—the former on account of the total absence of chloride of soda, an ingredient which figures so largely in the analysis of the sulphureous springs already noticed, and which is apt to have an irritating effect on the bowels ; and the latter from its being, as Mr. West remarks in his analysis of this water, " of very desirable strength." As the sulphureous waters do not differ materially in point of strength, it will be sufficient to give Mr. West's analysis of the strongest of them, " Sulphur Spring, No. 2" :—
Solid Contents.	grs.
Muriate of lime .	8.85
Sulphate of magnesia	2.91
Carbonate of magnesia	8.48
Carbonate of lime	0.12
Carbonate of soda	17.64
38.00
The contents of the chalybeate chemist, are—
Protoxide of Iron Muriate of lime Sulphate of magnesiA Sulphate of soda Carbonate of lime Carbonate of soda
Gaseous Contents.	c. in.
Sulphuretted hydrogen	2.8
Carbonic acid	6.76
Nitrogen	7.97
16.62
spring, according to the same
grs. 2.16 1.62 0.77 1.66 2.93 1.27
10.4
Harlow Car is an attractive place for those who wish quiet and seclusion. On Harlow Hill a tower has been erected, 100 feet high and commanding a ver/ extensive view, including, in clear weather, the Peak of Derbyshire. Telescopes are provided for visitors, who will be delighted with the scenery of the surrounding villages, woods, lakes, and valleys. Not far from the tower is a chaste and elegant church erected in 1870.
The Bog wells, near to the Bath Hospital, and a little west of Low Harrogate, are upwards of thirty in number, and differ materially from one. another in strength and quality. One of them, the Magnesia Spring, is under cover.
The "Victoria Public Baths, erected at a cost of £30,000, are near the Spa Concert Hall. Their water is supplied froni sulphur springs of various strength. Charges for hot sulphur baths, 2s. and Is. 6d. each. The building also contains vapour,Eimnoisrs
3	i	S	O	7	8HARROGATEvicinity of harrogate—almes cliff.
163
douche, spray, and other baths.* The terms vary at different establishments ; but they are always accessible to visitors. The following charges may be regarded as an approximation to the general average:—
	£	«.	d.		£	s. d.
Hot air	0	3	6	Sulphur water baths	0	2 fl
Ditto, medicated	0	4	0	Or nine for	1	1 0
Vapour	0	3	6	Mild Sulphur water baths	0	2 6
Sulphur vapour douche	0	2	6	Or nine for	1	1 0
Or nine for	1	1	0	Fresh water baths	0	2 0
Sulphur water douche	0	2	6	Or nine for	0	16 0
Or nine for	1	1	0	Shower baths	0	1 6
				Or fifteen for	1	0 0
A Bath Hospital was founded in 1824, for the relief of poor patients, who might find their way to Harrogate. This institution, which can accommodate above a hundred patients, is chiefly supported by the contributions of visitors ; and there is surely no better way of shewing gratitude for benefit or pleasure derived from a residence at this health-restoring spa than by contributing towards an institution which brings the same benefits within the reach of those who are of themselves unable to procure them.
VICINITY OF HARROGATE.
From Harrogate, as has been already remarked, many places of interest can be conveniently visited. Only those, however, which geographically belong to its neighbourhood and that of Knaresborough, which is three miles distant by rail, are here noticed. For other excursions of interest the tourist is referred to the Guide to Yorkshire.
Almes Cliff, 5 miles south-west of Harrogate, and about 1 from Weeton Station, is a crag of gritstone crowning a hill which has an
* Smollett, in " Humphrey Clinker," thus refers to the means and appliances of Harrogate, in the way of baths, in his time :—" At night I was conducted into a dark hole on the ground floor, where the tub smoked and stunk like the pot of Acheron in one corner, and in another stood a dirty bed provided with thick blankets, in which I was to sweat after coming out of the bath. My heart seemed to die within me when I entered this dismal bagnio, and found my brain assaulted by such insufferable effluvia. . . After having endured all but real suffocation foi above a quarter of an hour in the tub, I was moved to the bed and wrapped in blankets. There I lay a full hour, panting with intolerable heat."164	VICINITY OF HARROGATE-BRIMHAM ROOK3.
elevation of 716 feet. On its summit are numerous basins hollowed out of the gritstone ; but whether by the action of the weather, or the hand of man, is uncertain. The largest of these basins is 14 inches deep and 28 in diameter. On the west side of the rock is a fissure called " Fairy-parlour," which has been explored to a great length. From the summit a very extensive and varied panorama lies spread out to the eye. This cliff is called Or eat Almes Cliff, to distinguish it from. Little Almes Cliff,\ which is about three miles distant to the north-west, and is higher by 121 feet. On Little Almes Cliff, too, there are several basins scooped out in the rock.
Brimfam Rocks (from Harrogate 13, or from Ripon 10 miles) may be visited by continuing the excursion from Ripley (page 168) about seven miles farther, on the road to Pateley Bridge.* These fantastic masses of rock have afforded matter for much speculation. They have generally been pronounced Druidical monuments ; but, though it is by no means improbable that the Druids may have here found a fitting scene for their worship, some earlier and more powerful agency must be sought to account for the number, size, shape, and position of these remarkable stones. Mr. Walbran is of opinion that they are the result of some natural convulsion brought about by volcanic agency. " An attentive examination," he remarks, " soon satisfies us as to their origin, and leaves us in the enjoyment of the rude similitudes they present, and contemplation of the volcanic power that has rent their vast blocks asunder, and projected them, in all forms, to vast distances. Impending high on the ridge of Nidder-dale, the storms and floods of unnumbered ages have washed away the soil that had been accumulated around their forms, and exposed their bare bleak sides in piles the Titans might credibly have heaped up. The friable nature of their composition, wasted by the corroding blasts sweeping both from the Atlantic and Northern Seas, across miles of unsheltered moors, has aided the distorted formation, and created grotesque and singular shapes, analogous to those presumed to have been used by Druidical superstition." Mr. Phillips, in his " Geology of Yorkshire," remarks, " The wasting power of the atmosphere is very conspicuous in these rocks, seeking out their secret laminations ; working perpendicular furrows and horizontal cavities; wearing away the * The Harrogate and Pately "branch of the North-Eastem Railway gives easy and rapid access to this remarkable scene. The nearest station is Dacre (two Inns) miles distant.vicinity op harrogate-goldsborough-harewood. 165
bases ; and thus "bringing a slow but sure destruction on the whole of the exposed masses. The rocks of Brimham are in this respect very remarkable, for they are truly in a state of ruin ; those that remain are but perishing monuments of what have been destroyed ; and it is difficult to conceive circumstances of inanimate nature more affecting to the contemplative mind than the strange forms and unaccountable combinations of these gigantic masses." The rocks are scattered over an area of about 40 acres, and present at a distance the appearance of a ruined city. Their forms are most varied and peculiar. Three or four are so nicely poised as to rock on the application of the slightest force. The largest of these rocking stones is calculated to weigh 100 tons. Some are perforated with singular regularity, and have received from this circumstance the name of the " Cannon Rocks." The bore of one is 12 inches in diameter. The others have all received names, either from tradition or fancy. The "Kissing Chair" is an object of peculiar interest to youthful visitors. Several tumuli may be observed in the neighbourhood of these stones, the largest being about 150 feet in circumference. The place is called Grafa-p/ain—the plain of graves, and is the property of Lord Grantley.
Goldsborough, miles from Knaresborough, and 5£ from Harrogate, is a picturesque hamlet with an ancient Church, containing the monumental effigies of two knights Templars. The arch of the south door, and some other architectural details, are worthy of notice. The Hall, a structure of the time of James L, has a spacious courtyard and a lofty gateway. From Golds-borough the visitor may proceed two miles farther to Ribston. The Hall is finely situated on an eminence overlooking the Nidd. Its grounds, which are open only on Tuesdays, are very attractive. In the Chapel there are some monuments to members of the Goodricke family. Ribston is chiefly noted for the well-known Pippin, which was first cultivated here. The original tree was raised from a pippin brought from France. It died inl840.
Harewcod. The village of Harewood (Inn : The Harewood Arms)—is about midway between Otley and Wetherby, eight miles from Harrogate, nearly the same distance from Leeds, a short five from Athlington, and a long four from Collingham stations, on the North-Eastern Railway. It consists of two streets of handsome houses, the one running north and south, and the other east and west—the latter forming the approach to the principal gateway166	VICINITY OF HARROGATE-HAREWOOD CHURCH.
of Harewood Park. The cottagers have almost all little gardens attached to their houses, or in a piece of ground set apart for the purpose, and furnished to them on certain conditions. Altogether, the village has a pleasant, happy look, and might be worth a passing visit even on its own account.*
The Church occupies a picturesque and secluded position within the park, not far from Harewood House. This beautiful edifice was originally founded in the reign of Henry I., and the present building was restored in 1865. It consists of nave, aisles, and chancel, with a square tower with buttresses and battlements at the west end. Buttresses divide the aisles into five bays, and project from the corners of'the chancel. The architecture is uniform throughout; and the church would be almost a perfect gem if the ugly little building which stands against the north wall of the chancel, blocking up half of the east window of the north aisle, were removed. In the interior are some very ancient and interesting sepulchral monuments. Chief of these is an altar-tomb, with the recumbent figures of Sir William Gascoigne and his wife. Sir William was born in this parish. He was made Chief Justice of the King's Bench in the reign of Henry IV., and is famous in English history for having committed to prison, for contempt of Court, Henry Prince of Wales, afterwards Henry V. The inscription on a brass filleting round the tomb has disappeared, having been torn away, it is generally said, in the time of the civil wars.t It is said to have run as follows :—" Hie jacet Will-mus Gascoigne nup : Capt. Justic. de Banco Henrici nup. regis Angliae quarti et Elizabeth uxor ejus, qui quidem Will-mus obiit die Dominica VI°. die Decembris, Anno D-ni mccccxii-xiv. Henrici IYi factus judex mcccci." There are five other tombs, all possessing well preserved recumbent effigies, deserving of detailed and careful examination. That between the chancel and the north aisle is believed, from its age and the crest on the knight's helmet, to be to the memory of Sir Richard Redman, and his wife Elizabeth,
•"This," says Whitaier, "is a fortunate place, blessed with much natural beauty and fertility; and in the compass of a country village, with nearly an entire though dismantled castle, a modern palace surrounded by a wide extent of pleasure grounds and plantations, and a parish church filled with unmutilated sculptures of the fourteenth and fifteenth centuries."
t Fuller, however, seems to have seen it; for he says, speaking of the Chief Justice, "This date of his death is fairly written in hia stately monument in Hnr-wood Church."—Worthies of England, vol. iiL p. 414.VICINITY OF HARROGATE-HAREWOOD HOUSE AND CASTLE. 167
daughter and co-heiress of the founder of the castle. The tomb opposite is of the same style, and probably covers the bodies of Sir William Ryther and his wife Sybil, the other daughter of Sir William Aldburgh. Hie effigies on the next tomb arc probably those of Sir Richard Redman (grandson of the Sir Richard above mentioned) and his wife. In the south aisle, at the feet of Chief Justice Gascoigne, is a tomb assigned to Sir John Neville of Womersley, who died in 1482. The last tomb is supposed by some to have been meant to commemorate a Frank of Alwoodley, and by others a Thwaites.
The church tower is picturesquely clothed with ivy, and the churchyard (which contains a few interesting inscriptions), is beautifully embosomed among trees.
Harewood House, the seat of the Earl of Harewood, is an imposing building in the Corinthian style, consisting of a centre and two wings. It was erected in 1760, from a design by Adams. Fine pleasure-grounds and gardens, to the extent of 150 acres, and laid out by the celebrated Capability Brown, at an expense of £16,000, add much to the attractions of this mansion. The house and grounds are usually shewn to visitors on Thursdays, during the summer season, from 11 o'clock till 4 p.m.
The house contains many spacious and beautifully furnished apartments. The ceilings were modelled chiefly by Rose, and painted by Zucchi and Rebecchi. Among the objects of interest in the interior are several family portraits by Sir Joshua Reynolds, Hopner, and Jackson; busts of Pitt, Sir Isaac Newton, Dante, Petrarch, Sappho, etc. ; some classical statues ; and a splendid collection of china.
Harewood Castle occupies a fine position overlooking the valley of the Wharfe, a few minutes' walk from the north end of the village. A castle was founded here shortly after the Conquest; but the present building does not go farther back than the reign of Edward III. The remains are extensive, and the walls are strong and well built, and rise in some parts to nearly their original height. The plan of the castle has been a quadrangle, slightly modified by the nature of the ground on which it was built. The grand entrance has been on the east side, through a projecting square tower, on the upper part of which may be seen the crest of Sir William Aldburgh, the founder of the castle, along with his motto—©at gal lie ial. The western side also has an entrance which leads at once into the great halL The state apartments168 VICINITY OP HABROGATE-PLUMPTON-RIPLEY.
of the castle have been on the floor above. There is much to interest the antiquarian in the internal arrangements of this stronghold, but the limits of this work do not admit of any further details.
Like most of the feudal castles of England, Harewood has passed through many hands since the time of the Domesday survey. One of its possessors was Sir John Cutler, a man of very penurious habits, who has been immortalized by Pope—
"Cutler saw tenants break, and houses fall; For very want he could not build a wall: His only daughter in a stranger's power; For very want he could not pay a dower. A few grey hairs his reverend temples crowned; 'Twas very want that sold them for two pound 1 What e'en denied a cordial at his end, Banished the doctor, and expelled the friend? What but a want—which you perhaps think mad, Tet numbers feel—the want of what he had 1"
Pluhpton is within walking distance of Harrogate, being about four miles to the south-east. This estate was for about six hundred years in the possession of the family of the same name, and is now the property of the Earl of Harewood. Sir William Plumpton, a member of this family, was beheaded along with his uncle, Archbishop Scroope, for rebellion, in 1405.
The pleasure-grounds comprise about 23 acres, and are laid out with much taste. They are open for the inspection of visitors. About a mile from Plumpton, on the road to Spofforth, is a singular rock, 24 feet high, and 90 in circumference, curiously perforated.
Ripley Castle.—The pleasant little town of Ripley is about five miles from Harrogate. The greater part of the town, being ruinous, was rebuilt in 1829 by the late Sir William Ingilby, in the possession of whose family it has been over five hundred years. It boasts an " Hotel de Ville."
The Castle is a spacious and handsome mansion, less of a fortress than its name would lead one to expect. Only the lodge and the great tower tell of the times when fortifications were needed. The date of its erection is indicated by the following sentence carved on the frieze of the wainscoat in one of the chambers of the tower:—In the yeire of owre Ld. M.D.L.V. was this howse buyldyd, by Sir Wyllyam Ingilby, knight; Philip and Marie reigning that time. In the great staircase is an elegant Yenetian window, containing a series of escutcheons on stainedvicinity of harrogate-spofforttt.
169
glass, displaying the arms of the Ingilbys, and I In- families with whom they have intermarried. The different apartments are elegant, but do not require special mention here.
Oliver Cromwell passed a night in Ripley Castle after the battle of Marston Moor. Sir William Ingilby was absent at the time, probably with the Royalists ; and his lady was at first inclined to refuse admission to Cromwell. Being warned, however, of the folly of resistance, she received him at the gate of the lodge, with a pair of pistols stuck in her apron-strings, telling him she expected him and his soldiers to behave properly. Cromwell and the lady passed the whole night in the hall, sitting on opposite sofas, equally distrustful of each other's intentions.
The gardens and grounds of Ripley Castle are extensive and beautiful. The former are ornamented with hot-houses, equal, if not superior, to any in the country. Admittance only on Fridays.
The Church contains a number of old monuments, to members of the Ingilby family, as well as a large number of magnificent stained glass windows, including one in memory of the Prince Consort which was executed by Mr. Bajlantine, of Edinburgh. An ancient Rood Screen, whose venerable appearance renders it an object of interest to the antiquarian, has been inserted in the wall on the south side of the chancel aisle. In the churchyard there is a pedestal of an old cross, which, like the Rood Screen, belonged to the original parish church at Sunk Chapel.
Spofforth Castle is near the Spofforth station, and about five miles from Harrogate. It consists of the remains rather of an English mansion than a fortress meant for permanent defence. The ruins stand on a slight eminence on the south-west side of the village of Spofforth. The building of which these ruins are a part was erected by Henry de Percy, who obtained a license to fortify his castle here in the year 1309. This, among the other possessions of the family, was forfeited to the crown in 1407, when Henry de Percy, first Earl of Northumberland, was slain, at Bramham Moor, in an insurrection against Henry IV. It was not long, however, ere Spoiforth came again into the possession of the Percy family. After the battle of Towton, in 1462, the Castle was greatly injured and although repaired in 1559, it was finally dismantled during the war between Charles I. and the Parliament. It is now the property of Lord Leconfield.
The remains are not very important. The ground-plan of170
HAWORTH,
the building is a parallelogram, with a square projection at the northern side, and an octagonal turret at the north-west corner. The great hall has "been a noble apartment, 25 or 26 yards long and about 14 broad, lighted by fine Gothic windows.
The parish Church, dedicated to All Saints, is an ancient stone building, except the portion restored in 1825. It is in the Norman style of architecture and contains a small but handsome monument to the memory of Blind Jack of Knaresborough, who died on a farm near the village. (See p. 223.)
Wetherby (Inns : Brunswick Hotel; Angel), is eight miles from Harrogate, and 15 from Leeds. This small market-town has little to attract the tourist. It contains a handsome church in the early English style. A fine bridge here crosses the Wharfe, which makes a cascade over a weir. The scenery within easy reach of the town is picturesque, and includes several spots of considerable interest. A Roman military road crossed the Wharfe at St. Helen's Ford, a little below the town. Wetherby withstood two attacks of the Royalists in 1642, the garrison being commanded by Sir Thomas Fairfax.
HAWORTH.
Inns :—Slack Bull, White Lion, Royal Oak, eta From Keighley, 4 miles; Leeds, 20 miles; Bradford, 10 miles;
Skipton, 13 miles.
The village of Haworth, mean and unimportant in itself, possesses a good deal of interest to the tourist in Yorkshire, as the home and the burial-place of the Bronte family. Since the publication of Mrs. GaskelTs " Life of Charlotte Bronte," in 1857, it has been visited yearly by considerable numbers of tourists ; and its associations of Currer Bell and her gentle sisters will doubtless make this humble and otherwise unattractive village one of the literary " shrines of England " for many a year to come.
Haworth is about four miles from Keighley, with which it is connected by a branch of the Midland Railway. The road is uphill and uninteresting. The village can be seen while the traveller is yet two miles distant. It lies on the slope of a hill, and consists chiefly of a steep narrow; street of poor houses. The church, with its grey tower, occupies a conspicuous position aboveHAWORTH CHURCH.
171
the village ; and behind rise the brown moors, which close in the hill prospect all round.
The village has no buildings of any importance, with the exception of the church of St. Michael and All Angels, and the parsonage. There are several respectable shops, and one or two inns of the humbler description.
HAWORTH CHUBCH (BEFORE RESTORATION).
The Church, with the exception of the tower, has been entirely rebuilt in the Perpendicular style. In the interior, at the west end, are five marble tablets, one of which refers to the Bronte family, whose remains lie near the altar. From the tomb-paved graveyard is obtained a pretty extensive view. The people of Haworth, by several separate inscriptions, now removed, claimed an extraordinary antiquity for their church. On the outside, on the church tower, may still be seen the following, in ancient characters :—" Orate Pbono Statu Autest172
HAWORTH CHUHOH.
Tod." The characters in which the word Tod is cut, look somewhat like 600 ; and have been, indeed, so rendered in a translation of the inscription into the vulgar tongue for the benefit of the unlearned, engraved on a stone which is placed alongside :— " Pray for ye soul of Autest. 600." There can be no doubt that this date is an error, as the gospel was not preached in North-umbria at that period, King Edwin being baptized in 626. The mistake probably originated in the manner above suggested. The late edifice was constructed in 1755 by the Rev. W. Grim-shaw, the coadjutor of Wesley, partly with the materials of an older church, and glazed in the common meeting-house fashion. The tower is of three courses, and surmounted with battlements and pinnacles. The massive pillars in the interior of the church had evidently belonged to an older edifice. On the old-fashioned pews the names of the parties to whom the sittings belonged were inscribed with white paint. A chancel has been built eastward of the old church. The remains or tombs have not been disturbed, but there are none under the new communion tables. Within the communion rails were the tombs of all the members of the Bronte family, with the exception of Anne, who died and was buried at Scarborough. The melancholy list was completed in 1861, when the desolate old man, the father, and the last survivor of a remarkable family, was laid beside his children. A handsomely sculptured tablet was a few years since substituted for the original plain memorial stone that recorded the successive deaths. The inscriptions in memory of the deceased are very brief, being confined to a statement of dates and ages. We give the names of the different members of the family, with the time of their death, and their age, as here inscribed :— Mrs. Bronte, died in 1821, aged 39 ; Maria, in 1825, aged 12 ; Elizabeth, the same year, aged 11; Patrick Branwell, in 1848, aged 30 ; Emily, the same year, aged 29 ; Anne (buried at Scarborough), in 1849, aged 27. The last two entries are as follow:—
"Also of Charlotte, their daughter, wife of the Rev. A B. Nicholls, B.A. She died March 31st, 1855, in the 39th year of her age.
"Also of the afore-named Rev. P. Bronte, A.B., who died June 7th, 1861, in the 85th year of his age, having been incumbent of Haworth for upwards of 41 years*
* Mr. BrontS was born in Ireland, in 1777. He studied at Cambridge, where he took the degree of B.A. in 1806. He published two works—"Cottage Poems,"in 1811; nnd " The Sural Minstrel, a Miscellany of Descriptive Poems," in 1813. Thehaworth parsonage.
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"1 The sting of death is sin.; and the strength of sin is the law. But thanks be to God, which giveth us the victory through our Lord Jesus Christ.'—1 Cor. xv. 56, 57."
The new church is in the Perpendicular style of architecture, and already adorned with numerous special gifts, though none are yet offered to the memory of the Brontes.
HAWORTH PARSONAGE,
The Parsonage, a plain two-storied house, now enlarged and renovated, is a little higher up the hill than the church, and separated from the churchyard by a wall and hedge. In front of the house there is a small grass plot, with a flower border and some trees and shrubs. Everything has been done to the church and parsonage to relieve the somewhat monotonous aspect which portraiture of mm given in Mrs. Gaskell's " Life of Charlotte Bronte," it has been justly remarked by a correspondent of Notes and Queries (Aug. 24, 1861, p. 147), " seems to owe some of its strangest features to the imagination or the credulity of the accomplished writer."174
HAWORTH PARSONAGE-THE BRONTES.
nature wears around them. There can be little doubt that the situation, as well as the other accessories, of their home contributed to foster the sombre and melancholy spirit by which the sisters Bronte were characterised- The influence of the scene might be traced in their writings. " This is an autumn evening," we find Currer Bell writing in " Shirley," " wet and wild. There is only one cloud in the sky ; but it curtains it from pole to pole. The wind cannot rest; it hurries sobbing over hills of sullen outline, colourless with twilight and mist. Rain has beat all day on that church tower ; it rises dark from the stormy enclosure of its graveyard ; the nettles, the long grass, and the tombs all drip with wet."* Miss Bronte thus speaks of her sister Emily's tale :—"1 Wuthering Heights' was hewn in a wild workshop, with simple tools, out of homely materials. The statuary found a granite block on a solitary moor: gazing thereon, he saw how from the crag might be elicited a head, savage, swart, sinister ; a form moulded with at least one element of grandeur —power. He wrought with a rude chisel, and from no mould but the vision of his meditations. With time and labour, the crag took human shape ; and there it stands colossal, dark, and frowning, half statue, half rock: in the former sense, terrible and goblin-like ; in the latter, almost beautiful, for its colouring ia of mellow grey, and moorland moss clothes it; and heath, with its blooming bells and balmy fragrance, grows faithfully close to the giant's foot." +
Haworth Parsonage was not the birth-place of any of the Brontes. The Rev. Patrick Bronte came to Haworth with his wife and six children in 1820, from Thornton, his former charge, a village four miles from Bradford. Charlotte Bronte (Mrs Nicholls is best known by her maiden name ; her married life was as brief as it was happy) was born at Thornton, April 21st, 1816. Mr. Bronte's other children were born at the same place. For the particulars of Miss Bronte's life the tourist is referred to Mrs. Gaskell's volumes. The present writer must content himself with a Bimple mention of. the dates of publication of the works by the " Brothers Bell," which have given such an interest to tbia quiet and melancholy house. In their first publication, the three sisters, Charlotte, Emily, and Ann p., appeared
* "Shirley," voL 11., p. 296.
t "Wuthering Heights and Agnes Grey. New "edition, with biographical notice of Che Authors," etc. (London 1851), p. '2A,HAWORTH-THE MOOES.
175
under the names, which they afterwards retained, of Currer, Ellis, and Acton Bell. This was a volume of poems, published in 1846. " Jane EyTe," published in 1847, at once arrested attention ; and, after criticisms both favourable and the reverse, became very popular. " "Wuthering Heights," by Emily Bronte, and "Agnes Grey," by Anne, appeared in the close of the same year, and were pretty generally looked upon as earlier and cruder productions of the author of " Jane Eyre." " The Tenant of Wildfell Hall," a second tale by Anne Bronte, was published in 1848. Emily Bronte died the same*year, and Anne the year following. "Shirley," Miss Bronte's second publication as a novelist, appeared in October 1849, and achieved great success. In 1851, "Wuthering Heights" and "Agnes Grey" were reprinted in one volume, with a short but beautiful biographical notice of her sisters by Miss Bronte. In January 1853, Miss Bronte's last work, " Villette," appeared, still under the name of Currer Bell, and took the same high position which her previous works had gained. She was married to Mr. Nicholls in 1854, and died March 31st, 1855. "The Professor," her first tale, which was refused by the publishers, has been published since her death. Mr. Bronte continued to officiate in Haworth church, assisted by his son-in-law, up to the summer of 1860. He died June 7th, 1861, at the advanced age of 85. The living was presented to a stranger by the vicar of Bradford and the trustees, who are the patrons ; the furniture of the parsonage was sold ; and within a few months from the death of Mr. Bronte not a relic of the strangely gifted family remained in the melancholy old house.
The tourist who visits Haworth Church would do well to extend "his walk to the moor on the heights above it, which was a favourite haunt of the three sisters. The view from the hill top is extensive, and not without a certain beauty, although Miss Bronte writes—" The scenery of these hills is not grand—it is not romantic; it is scarcely striking. Long low moors, dark with heath, shut in little valleys, where a stream waters, here and there, a fringe of stunted copse. Mills and scattered cottages chase romance from these valleys ; it is only higher up, deep in amongst the ridges of the moors, that imagination can find rest for the sole of her foot: and even if she finds it there, she must be a solitude-loving raven—no gentle dove."*
* " Wuthering Heights." eto.-176
HELMSLEY.
" When I go out there alone," she says in one of her letters, " everything reminds me of the times when others were with me, and. then the moors seem a wilderness, featureless, solitary, saddening. My sister Emily had a particular love for them, and there is not a knoll of heather, not a branch of fern, not a young bilberry leaf, not a fluttering lark or linnet, but reminds me of her. The distant prospects were Anne's delight, and, when I look round, she is in the blue tints, the pale mists, the waves and shadows of the horizon. In the hill-country silence, their poetry comes by lines and. stanzas into my mind ; once I loved it, now I dare not read it; and am driven often to wish I could taste one draught of oblivion, and forget much that, while mind remains, I never shall forget."
HEDON, an ancient village, miles to the east of Hull, is situated on the Hull and Withernsea Railway. As the village is in the vicinity of Hull, it will more conveniently be described there. See page 196.
HELMSLEY.
Hotels :—The Black Swan, the Royal Oak, and the Crown;
Faversham Arms, etc.
Gilling, 6J miles; Kirkby Moorside, 5}; Pickering, 12; Malton, 16;
York, 31 (rail), 23 (road).
This quaint old market-town, situated on the Gilling and Pickering branch of the North-Eastern Railway, is interesting on its own account, while the proximity of its old castle, of the stately mansion and noble park of Lord Feversham, and of the beautiful ruins of Rievaulx Abbey, gives it attractions to the tourist of no ordinary description. The town is pleasantly situated on the Rye, and its neighbourhood is picturesquely wooded. The population is scarcely 2000, and is principally agricultural, although many persons are employed in the linen manufacture. Several large fairs are held here annually for sheep, horses, and cattle.
The town is irregularly but pleasantly built. In the marketplace an elegant monument has been erected to the memory ofhelmsley church and castle.
177
the late (second) Baron Feversham, the foundation of which was laid by the present Earl in May 1869. The monument is in the form of a Gothic market-cross of elaborate workmanship, 45 feet in height, much resembling in form the Scott monument in Edinburgh, but on a smaller scale. It was designed by Gilbert G. Scott, R.A., and contains a fine statue of the late Lord Fevers-ham by Mr. Noble. One or two of the picturesque timber-fronted houses with which the market-place was once surrounded, and the ancient market-cross, still remain.
The Church is a restoration (alihost the re-building) of the interesting old pariah church. The building occupied nearly two years, and was effected by the munificence of the late Lord and present Earl of Feversham, in whose family the patronage of the living has long been vested, to whom nearly all the lands for many miles around Helmsley belong, and whose noble residence, Duncomb Park, immediately adjoins the little town. The chancel windows and some in the transepts are filled with excellent stained glass by Messrs. Hardman of Birmingham. The treatment of the eastern triplet being illustrative of the dedication of the church to All Saints ; the centre light contains the Saviour in a sitting attitude of heroic size, in the act of receiving and blessing the bands of saints, prophets, martyrs, and confessors, groups of whom fill the lights on each side ; while four single-light windows in the sides of the chancel contain simple dignified figures of the Evangelists. The church also contains a fine organ (given by the Earl of Feversham), and a new clock with musical chimes. The entire expense, upwards of £10,000, has been borne by the late Lord and present Earl of Feversham, but the result is a fabric substantial enough to last for as many future centuries as the original one of the Norman founders did before.
Helmsley Castle is within the grounds of Duncombe Park, on a fine eminence overlooking the town. It was built in the twelfth century by Robert de Roos, surnamed Fursan, from whom it is called Fursan Castle in some of the early records. After continuing in his family for many generations, the castle and estate passed by marriage to the first Duke of Buckingham. On the miserable death of his profligate successor (see Kirkby Moorside), the estate was sold by his trustees to Sir Charles Duncomb, Knight, with whose descendants it still remains.
N178
HELMSLEY-DUNCOMBE PARK.
The only historical event of any interest connected with Helnifl-ley Castle is it? siege by the Parliamentarians in 1644. After maintaining a strenuous defence for some time, the garrison made an honourable capitulation.
The castle has been defended by an outer and an inner moat, both of them very broad and deep. The sides of the inner moat are adorned with trees, which add veiy much to the pictuxesque-ness of the ruin. The principal entrance has been from the south; and the remains of the gateway and barbican are very interesting. The most important part of the building now remaining is the keep, a fine fragment about ninety-five feet high. It has been square, about fourteen yards each way; but only one side, the west, remains complete. It is battlemented at the top, and has bartisans at the two angles. The style is early English; the windows in this western front are only slightly pointed on the outside, but somewhat more acutely within. The interior arrangements of this keep seem to have been much of the same description as those noticed in similar and more important fortresses in this county—a dungeon, of course, below; and three storeys above it, communicating with each other by a stone staircase, the remains of which may be seen. A fireplace also remains on the north side.
On the western side of the castle, close to the moat, is a range of buildings in good preservation, in the Elizabethan style of architecture—perhaps the scene of some of the revelries of l( proud Buckingham."
A walk of half a mile, through the beautiful grounds of Duncombe Park, will bring the tourist to the mansion of Lord Feversham.
Duncombe Park, the stately residence of Lord Feversham, is half a mile from Helmsley. It was built in 1718 by William Wakefield of Easingwold, from a design by Sir John Vanbrugh, the architect of Castle Howard and Blenheim House. The site selected could hardly be surpassed, and the building is worthy of it. The style is Doric, and the general effect very imposing, though in some parts rather heavy. A high gratification awaits the tourist in the inspection of this fine mansion and its grounds —the noble owner, in the most liberal spirit, throwing them open to the public.*
The interior of this mansion is worthy of its exterior. Many * Thn paison who (thews the honse, of course, expeots a gratuity.HELMSLEY-DUNCOMBE PAB.K
179
of the apartments are magnificent in their proportions and decorations. The hall and saloon are especially admired. The Hall is 60 feet long by 40 broad, and is surrounded by lofty Corinthian columns. This splendid apartment contains much valuable sculpture. The Saloon, 88 feet by 24£, is formed into three divisions by Ionic pillars, and is adorned with sculpture and paintings. It is impossible to particularize the other apartments, which are in a corresponding style of magnificence. The mansion contains a large and valuable collection of works of art in sculpture and painting. Our space admits of only a bare mention of the most important of these.
Sculpture. The Dog of Alcibiades, supposed to be the work of Myron, the famous Greek sculptor, who flourished about 440 years before Christ, at once arrests the eye of the tourist on his entering the hall. This statue was purchased by an ancestor of the present owner for 1000 guineas. Here also is the Discobolus, or Quoit Thrower, said to be the finest antique statue in England. This beautiful work has also been ascribed to Myron, though perhaps not with so much probability as the other. Besides these two exquisite pieces of sculpture, which are the gems of the collection, there are antique statues of Apollo, Bacchus, Mars, Mercury, etc.; busts of Greek and Latin poets ; medallions, etc.
Paintings. These are numerous, and include specimens of several of the great masters. Among the pictures in this collection which are most admired are the following :—
Leonardo da Vinci—Head of St. Paul, one of his master-pieces.
Old Palma—Scourging of Christ. This picture is from the Justinian Palace at Rome. It was painted in competition with Titian, and crownejL
Poussin—A Land Storm.
Titian—Venus and Adonis ; and the Madonna della Coniglia.
Carlo Cignani—Madonna and Child.
Claude Lorraine—Two Landscapes.
Hogarth—Garrick in the character of Richard the Third.
Guido—The Adoration of the Bhepherds; and numerous other works.
This collection also contains paintings by Rubens, Carlo Dolci, Pannegiano, Salvator Rosa, etc.
The Grounds are veiy tastefully laid out, and command prospects of great extent and beauty. There is a splendid sweep of park before the house, unbroken by plantations, but encircled with dense woods. The Home Terrace, on the opposite side of the house, overhanging the river Rye, has one of the grandest180
HOBNSBA.
prospects in Yorkshire. At the one end of the terrace is an Ionic temple, at the other a Tuscan one. The view from the latter is specially admired.
A walk of about a mile and a half from Duncombe Park will bring the tourist to Rievaulx Abbey. This road lies through the middle of the open sweep of park already referred to, on gaining the border of which he takes a country track to the right (see Rievaulx Abbey).
HEMINGBROUGH—In the Vicinity of Selby.
HOVDSTGHAM.—In the Vicinity of Malton.
HOWARD CASTLE.—See Castle Howard.
HORNSEA.
Hotels.—The Marine Hotel, The New Hotel.
From Hull, 15J miles (rail); from Beverley, 13 miles (coach).
Hornsea has become of late years a favourite sea-bathing place for the people of Hull, Beverley, and the south-eastern district generally. It presents pretty much the same characteristic features as other places of its class—fishermen's cottages, marking the original village ; a row of good modern houses, let for lodgings ; and several inns, of different grades.
The place is of considerable antiquity, being mentioned in old records of the thirteenth century. The Church is a spacious and venerable structure, mostly belonging to the fifteenth century, and consists of nave, aisles, chancel, and tower, the upper part of which has been rebuilt. There is a vaulted crypt under the chancel, said to have been at one time used as a receptacle for smuggled goods. From the south aisle we quote a curious epitaph upon " Will. Day, gentleman," who died in 1616.
" If that man's life be likened to a day, One here interr'd in youth did lose a day By death, and yet no loss to him at all, For he a threefold day gain'd by his fall; One day of rest in bliss celestial, Two days on earth by gifts terrestryall-Three pounds at Christmas, three at Easter day, Given to the poore until the world's last day.hornsea mere.
181
This was no cause to heaven; but, consequent, Who thither -will, must tread the steps he went, For why t Faith, Hope, and Christian Charity, Perfect the house framed for eternity."
There is a tradition that Hornsea once stood ten miles from the sea ; and the spire with which the low tower was oncfe surmounted, but which fell in 1773, is said to have borne the inscription—
" Hornsea steeple, when I built thee, Thou was ten miles off Burlington, Ten miles off Beverley, and ten miles off sea."
The sea is steadily encroaching upon the land; and the geologist may see the gradual operation of those causes which have produced many of the most marked physical features of the country.
On the west of the town there is a large lake, called Hornsea Mere. It is about two miles in length, and abounds in fish. In olden times the fishing in this mere was very valuable. This is sufficiently proved by the fact that, in the year 1260, the conflicting claims of the abbots of St. Mary's, of York, and of Meaux, to the right of fishing in it, were solemnly brought to the issue of a combat. The abbots, of course, fought by proxy. The combat lasted all day, and resulted in the victoiy of the abbot of Meaux.
" Hornsea Mere," observes Mr. Phillips, " is now undergoing some of the changes which are traced in the old lakes cut into by the sea at Outhorne, Sandley Mere, and other places. It is slowly filling up, by depositions of vegetable matter and earthy sediment round the shores and islands. The sea, once (they say) ten miles distant from Hornsea, which now stands on the cliff, is advancing steadily to destroy the barrier of the Mere ; when that happens, a section will be presented like what is seen at many of the old drained lakes in the cliffs of Holderness—a hollow in pebbly clays or sands, covered by fine argillaceous, perhaps shelly, sediments, over which peat is spread, and above all the sandy, loamy, and argillaceous accumulations which are in daily progress." *
There are some places of interest in the vicinity of Hornsea. Two and a half miles distant is Sigglesthorne, the church of which is pronounced by Poulson the most picturesque in Holder-
* " Rivers, Mountains, and Sea Coasts of Yorkshire," p. 123.182
howden church.
ness. It is charmingly embowered among fine^ trees, and clad with ivy. Aldbrough, about five miles to the south, is interesting for its memories of Ulphus, whose drinking horn is preserved in York Minster. A stone of the old church, which was washed away by the sea, is preserved in the wall of the present fabric. From a Norman inscription upon this stone, we learn that the church was built by Ulf. The inscription may be of the time of Canute. Skipsea, about four miles northwards, on the coast, has a high artificial mound, steep and difficult of ascent, the site of a castle, founded by Drogo the Saxon. The remains are extensive and very interesting. The outworks form a crescent—the outer rampart being in some places as high as the mound itself (from 20 to 80 or 90 feet)—and are in circumference about half a mile. The keep was situated on the mound in the centre, the circumference of the top of which is 130 paces. The width of the inner ditch or hollow, running round the central mound, is about 20 paces. Some British remains have been found in this neighbourhood.
HOWDEN.
Inns:—Bowman's Commercial Hotel; Half Mjon ; Wellington.
From Howden Station, 1 mile; Selby, 8 miles; Hull, 22$.
This small but thriving town has a population of 6455, and 1434 inhabited houses. It is noted for its horse fairs, which attract dealers from all parts of the country. But what gives this country town its interest in the eyes of the tourist is its interesting old church.
Howden Church is one of the noblest in Yorkshire. It belongs chiefly to the thirteenth century; but there are some fine additions of a later date. The eastern part is in ruins, and has a magnificent and venerable aspect. The western portion is in good repair, and used regularly for divine service, lie church of Howden was originally a rectory parochial, in the patronage of the prior and convent of Durham. In 1267 it was made collegiate, the patrons ordaining that in this church there should be " five prebends for ever, and each of them to maintain at his own proper cost a priest and clerk in holy orders, to administer in the same, in a canonical habit," etc. On the dissolution of the college, in the reign of Henry YIII., the revenues, which should hnve kept the church in repair, passed into private hands, andHOWDEN CHURCH.
183
the fabric began soon, to shew symptoms of decay. An ineffectual attempt was made in 1591 to procure a grant of money for repairing the chancel. In 1630, the chancel being considered unsafe for the celebration of divine worship, the nave was repaired and fitted up for that purpose. The roof of the chancel fell in in 1696, since which period this part of the church has been in ruins.
The church is in the form of a cross, with a lofty square tower in the centre. The following are its principal dimensions:— Length of nave, 105 feet—breadth, 66 ; length of transept, 117 —breadth, 30 ; length of choir, 120—breadth, 66; height of the tower, 135 ; total length of the church, 255 feet. The west front is extremely elegant. It consists of four divisions, made by buttresses terminating in crocketed finials. The buttresses on either side of the central elevation are panelled, and have niches containing statues, the one of a bishop, the other of a saint. A large window of four lights, divided by a transom, and containing much beautiful tracery, is the main feature of this front. This window is surmounted by a crocketed pediment rising to the roof. The entrance from this side is by an elegant pointed doorway under the centre of the great west window, the parts of the central division on either side of it being panelled with blank pointed arches, considerably defaced. The north aisle has a window of three lights, with tracery corresponding in its general design with that of the central window. There are two south aisles ; the window of the one nearest the nave being the same as that of the north aisle, while the other has a depressed arched window of three lights. The south side of the latter aisle is lighted by two windows with depressed arches, containing richer tracery than the window of similar design at its western extremity. The parapet of the nave has some beautiful carving, consisting of human heads, foliage, monsters, etc. The pointed windows of three lights on either side of the nave differ in details from each other, but correspond each with that opposite it on the other side. The windows of the transepts contain elegant tracery. The south transept has a small chapel attached to it on its east side. The ruins of the chancel are by no means the least interesting part of the structure. The great east window has lost its tracery ; but, if it has been at all in keeping with the architectural details still uninjured, it must have been of exquisite beauty. Adjoining the choir, on the south side, is the184
HOWDEN CHURCH.
chapter-house, an elegant octagonal building, resembling the chapter-house of York, erected about the middle of the fourteenth century. It was surmounted by an elegant octagonal stone spire, which fell in and reduced it to a ruin in 1750. The north side of the church does not require to be described, being similar to the south side. The tower is plain, but tasteful, with no architectural features requiring to be noticed. Its summit affords a good view.
The interior of the church is no less worthy of examination than the exterior. Six pointed arches, resting on clustered columns with octagonal capitals, divide the nave from the' aisles. The arch between the nave and choir is filled up, and has an altar-piece between its bows. There are several interesting sepulchral monuments of great antiquity. The most splendid is an altar-tomb, in a chapel adjoining the south transept, bearing the effigies of a crusader and his lady, beneath a beautiful canopy. The warrior is without his helmet, and has a shield on his arm bearing the arms of Metham. In the same chapel is the altar-shaped monument of another crusader, with his recumbent figure. His shield bears the arms of Saltmarsh. The two windows of this chapel, which is named after the Metham family, are full of coats of arms of the Methams and Saltmarshes. At the southeast pier of the transept is an altar-monument, with shields of arms on the dado. Behind this monument is the full-length figure of an ecclesiastic, with his right hand in the attitude of benediction.
In the ruined choir may be seen some stone coffins, found here in 1785, on the removal of the ruins of the roof. The chapter-house is entered from the choir by a splendid arch, and a passage of much beauty. This is generally regarded as the most interesting part of the building. It is octagonal, like the chapter-house at York, as has been already said, but it is greatly inferior in dimensions. It contains thirty seats, the exquisitely delicate and beautiful sculpture of which is much admired. Seven sides of the building have large windows of three lights, with fine traceiy. The entrance from the church is on the eighth side; and the space above the door, corresponding with the other windows, is occupied with niches for statues, beautifully canopied with tabernacle work. The springings of the vaulted roof, which fell in 1750, still remain.HUDDERBFIELD.
185
Adjoining the church, on the south side, are the remains of the ancient palace of the bishops of Durham.
From Howden a walk of three or four miles will bring the tourist to Goole, whence he can proceed by rail to Hull or Don-caster, or to Pontefract and the large towns of the "West Riding.
Hotels.—The Station Hotel, The George, Queen, Imperial, etc. Distances.—From Wakefield, 14 miles; Sheffield, 26; Halifax, 10J (rail), 7 (road);
Bradford, 18 ; Manchester, 26 ; London, 188 ; Leeds, 16.
This important manufacturing town is named in several old charters of the time of Richard II., which grant " free warren in Huddersfield to the prior and canons of Nostel." It appears that there were profitable mills here as early as 1200, an old grant by Colin de Dammeville giving " to God, the blessed St Mary,186
huddersfield.
and the abbots and monks of Stanlaw, for the soul of his lord, Roger de Lacy, all his part of the said mill at Huddersfield, on the river Caune, and 20s. annual rent."
According to the census of 1871, the population of Huddersfield was 74,358, an increase, since 1861, of 39,481 persons. The manufactures of the town include almost every variety of woollen cloths, the principal articles being broad and narrow cloths, kerseymeres, flushings, serges, cords, and fancy goods.
In addition to the railways, which afford rapid communication with all parts of the country, Huddersfield is connected by canals with both the Mersey and the Humber.
The town is handsomely and substantially built of stone. Many of the warehouses are structures of great architectural beauty ; and the town altogether has a pleasant and prosperous aspect, and, for a manufacturing centre, is remarkably clean.
The Parish Church, dedicated to St. Peter, is an elegant modern building in the Perpendicular style. It consists of nave and aisles, chancel, and one transept on the south side, with east and west aisles. At the west end of the church there is a beautiful tower, with buttresses at the angles, and terminating in'a parapet in open work, with crocketed pinnacles at the corners. On the north side of the chancel there is a vestry, built in hexagonal chapter-house fashion. The interior of the church is very handsomely fitted up, and the floor has been reseated throughout; but the grand old stone pulpit has been removed. The east window, which is of five lights, with a transom, is small but tasteful, and filled with stained glass representing scripture characters. The transept is lighted with five windows, the lower parts of which are also filled with painted glass. The aisles of the nave and the transept are occupied with galleries, which somewhat detract from the lightness and general effect of the interior. On the oak roof are painted the arms of various vicars of thi3 parish. There are a few modern monumental tablets on the walls of the church. The churchyard is tastefully kept.
St. Paul's Church, a building of less pretensions, in the Early English style, is deserving of notice. It has a handsome spire, and is internally light and tasteful There are also churches dedicated to St. John, St. Thomas, the Holy Trinity, and St. Andrew. Dissenting chapels are numerous, and are noted for their pew accommodation, and the more recent ones for their architectural beauty.vicinity of huddersfield-almondbury.	187
The handsomest part of Huddersfield is the area in front of the railway station—St. George's Square. The station itself is in the Grecian style, and is entered by a portico supported by Corinthian pillars. Opposite to it is the Lion Arcade, built in 1853. The other sides of the square are occupied by the George Hotel and the Britannia Buildings—a fine block of warehouses. A statue of Sir Robert Peel graces the centre of the square.
The Cloth Hall, erected by Sir Thomas Ramsden in 1768, and extended in 1780, is an immense circular two-storied building of . brick, with buttresses of Yorkshire stone. The handsome warehouses, shops, and other business premises in John William and adjoining streets are convincing evidence of the prosperity of the town.
Among other notable buildings may be mentioned the Town Hall, the College, the Infirmary, the Theatre Royal, built on the site of the old Philosophical Hall, and the Market Hall. The last mentioned building, opened in 1880, is in the Gothic style, with a clock, tower, and spire 106 feet high.
In the vicinity are Almondbury and Kirklees'Hall
Almondbury, two miles distant, on the Wakefield road, is indicated by many writers as the site of Cambodunum, a station mentioned by Antoninus as on the way between Eboracum and Mancunium (Manchester). Whitaker, however, is of opinion that Almondbury presents no evidence of belonging either to the site or the structure of a Roman encampment. Hunter thinks-that Cambodunum was at Gretland, near JElland, a small town five miles on the other side of Huddersfield. He founds this opinion on the discovery of a votive altar there, bearing the following inscriptions. On the one side, " dvi . ci. brig et .
nvm . avgg. t . avr . avrelianvs . dd . pro . sb . et . svib . 8 . m .
a . g . s.and on the other, " antonino hi. et get . coss." This altar was therefore dedicated to the god of the Brigantes and to the deities of the emperors; Titus Aurelius Antoninus being sufficiently latitudinarian in his religious views to present his services to both together. The discovery of this altar, however, does not necessarily fix the Roman encampment at Gretland. Another votive altar was found at Slack, and the results of an exploration by the Huddersfield Archaeological Association in 1865 confirmed the opinion that a Roman station had existed there. Whether or not Almondbury was a Roman en--188
vicinity of hudder8field—kirklees.
■campment, it appears to have been a place of some importance in Saxon times ; for it is said to have been a seat of the kings of Northumbria, with a church built by Paulinus. Subsequently there was a castle here, some few traces of which may still be seen.
Kirklees Hall is not far from the Cooper's Bridge Station, which is about three miles from Hudders-field. This elegant residence, the seat of Sir G. Armytage, Bart., occupies the site of a Cistercian nunnery, founded in the reign' of Henry II. Some traces of the nunnery may yet be seen, and the tomb of a prioress has been discovered, bearing the inscription—" Douce Jhesu de Nazaret fites mercy a Elizabeth de Staynton jadis Priores de cest Maison." Kirklees is interesting as the burial-place of Kobin Hood. Falling sick, he put himself, so runs the tradition, under the hands of a nun belonging to this abbey, and was treacherously bled to death. His grave is still pointed out in the park. There has been some discussion among antiquarians as to the genuineness of an epitaph said to have been originally engraved over the tomb. There can be no doubt that there once was an inscription of some kind, though no evidence has been given to establish the genuineness of the epitaph in question. There are many versions of it We give the .oldest, as found * amongst the papers of the learned Dr. Gale, late dean of York':—
" Hear undernead dis laid stean laiz robert earl of Huntingtun nea arcir ver az hie sa geud an pipl kauld im robin heud sick outlawz az hi an iz men vil england nivr si agen.
obiit 24 kal dekembris 1247."Reference.
1	TowruSaXl
2	Royal In-t titutism,
3	Sailors Institute 4t Royal Theatre
5	Hock Offices
6	Mar-lcets
7	CorrtHsaeharvge
8	Custom JBjjuse
9	Post Office
4J!urlongs
11 ]\f~—11 H ScuZcoa
\;st If toil
11	JTrinity Souse
12	Public JLooms
13	Trinity Chaa-ch 14*	Sl>Ma*ys D? 15	S* Johns D? IB	CJcrvsts D? 17.	St Stephens 1)9 ^ IS	S? James D?
19	S~! Lvks.jt J}?
20	Sf Peters J>°
GLassWofksl
Shi? ^uildirtg
Yard
Jl. &> O.JBlack, StaibTLrgh..HULL.
189-
HULL.
Hotels.—Royal Station Hotel, Minerva, Cross Keys, George, Victoria, Paragon.
Distances.—From York, 45 miles; Leeds, 61; Manchester, 90; Liverpool, 121;
London, 197 (by Goole), 205 (by Selby).
Hull, or Kingston-upon-Hull (originally Wyke-upon-Hull)y one of the most important seaports in the kingdom, takes it& name from the river on which it stands. The estuary of the Humber, which forms its boundary on the south, is the great natural outlet for the drainage of Lincolnshire, and of a large part of Yorkshire, as well as the great inlet for the waters of the German Ocean. Hull is most advantageously situated for trade, both export and import; and it is to this circumstance,, even more than the royal favour with which it was visited at an early period, that its rise into importance is to be ascribed. The first historical notice of any consequence, which we have of it, is the purchase of the town by Edward I. from the monks of Meaux. In the year 1174, the town of Wyke-upon-Hull was & thriving mart, and without doubt from a much earlier period. The Exchequer Rolls of the 13 th century show that its exports were chiefly wool, sheepskins, and prepared leather, and were in some years half as great as London. During this period it was a favourite resort of the great wool merchants of the kingdom, one-third of whom were foreigners, principally Flemings and Italians. In 1293 Edward I. purchased the town, the rental being at that time £78 : 14 : 6 per annum, and upon his acquiring the absolute ownership of the place, he changed its name to Kingstown-upon-Hull, and placed it under the government of a warden and two bailiffs, at the same time granting to the inhabitants many immunities and privileges. Hull first employed its energies in the whale fishery, and in the importation of stock-fish from Iceland, which latter trade seems to have been very lucrative to the inhabitants in the reign of Edward II. That monarch fortified the town in the year 1322. Trinity Church was built ten years previous to that date. Sir William de la Pole, a merchant of Hull, was the friend and favourite of Edward III., and also his banker, as appears by a deed dated 13th June 1339, in which the king acknowledges his debts to Sir William to be £76,180 and £46,389. Sir William de la Pole was the first mayor of Hull, and was a great benefactor to his native town. Upon the invasion of France by Edward III.,190
HULL-EARLY HISTORY.
Hull furnished 16 ships and 466 men towards the expedition. Sir William de la Pole commenced a Carthusian monastery and hospital here, now called the Charter House, a pious work completed "by his son, Sir Michael de la Pole, who was created Earl of Suffolk and Lord Chancellor of England. He built a stately palace in Lowgate, on the site of which the present Town Hall stands. The fortunes of this family axe intimately connected with the history of the town Few places can boast of having given rise to so celebrated a family, or to one which has been so mindful in prosperity of the interests of the locality from which it sprang. In 1414, we find the merchants of Hull furnishing several large ships to Henry "V. for his expedition against France. In the wars of the Roses, Hull was steadfast in its attachment to the house of Lancaster, its mayor falling, in the moment of victory, at the battle of Wakefield Green. During the Parliamentary war the town was twice besieged by the Royalists, but without success. The subsequent history of Hull presents no remarkable features. Taylor, the water poet, who visited this town in 1622, pays it this compliment:—
" It is the only bulwark of the north ; All other townH for strength to it must strike, And all the northern parts have not the like ; The people from the sea much wealth have won, Each man doth live as he were Neptune's son."
Hull is the birth-place of several eminent men. From Sir William de la Pole, a merchant prince of Hull, already mentioned, sprang the powerful family of Suffolk. William de la Pole, fourth Earl and first Duke of Suffolk, is the most important historical personage of the family. He served, both in arms and in diplomacy, in France, and took a foremost place in court intrigues at home. His character and fate are sketched by Shakspere in " King Henry "VI., part IL" John de la Pole, Earl of Lincoln, the eldest son of John de la Pole, Duke of Suffolk, and of the Princess Elizabeth, sister of Edward IV. and of Richard III., was declared by the latter, on the death of his son the Prince of Wales, heir to the throne of England, and but for the result of the battle of Bosworth Field, the descendant of the Hull merchant, on the death of his uncle, Richard HL, would have become King of England.
It is also gratifying to know that, over 500 years after the death of the first mayor of Hull, the hospital of the CharterHULL-EMINENT NATIVES.
191
House founded by him still exists, and fulfils the object contemplated by its pious founder, and is one of the very best managed charities in the kingdom. Sir John Lawson, the famous admiral, is supposed to have been a native of Hull. He distinguished himself in numerous engagements "with the Dutch. After a brilliant career, he died of a wound received in an action off Lowestoft, June 3, 1665. William Wilberforce was born in the High Street of Hull, on the 24th of August 1759, He was returned to Parliament, as member for his native place, in 1780. The long struggle for the abolition of the African slave trade, which was commenced in 1788 and terminated in 1807, and the success of which was mainly owing to Wilberforce's able and persevering efforts, is matter of history, and need not be detailed here. William Mason, the poet, was born at Hull in 1725, and died in 1797. His principal works are the dramas of " Elfrida" and " Caractacus," and a biography of his friend Gray, the poet. John Ellerton Stocks, M;D., an able and zealous botanist, was born near Hull in 1820.
At the beginning of the present century the population of Hull was 29,680. At the census of 1871 the town contained 123,111 persons, and 25,455 inhabited houses, being an increase since last census of 25,450 persons and 5939 inhabited houses. The population is stated by the Registrar-General on the 9th March 1881 to be 152,980, and in the same year there were 35,000 inhabited houses within the municipal borough ; while the Parliamentary boundary includes a farther population of other 10,000 people. The borough returns two members to Parliament.
The trade and commerce of Hull are large and important, its situation being highly advantageous both for importing and exporting. It trades with all parts of the world, including India and New York, as a walk along its large and crowded docks will show; but its most extensive commercial relations are with Holland, Hamburg, Russia, the Baltic ports, Sweden and Norway, Hull exports the cottons of Manchester, the woollens and linens of Yorkshire, and the lace and net of Nottingham ; and imports, in return for them, large quantities of foreign wool, flax, iron, timber, deals, tallow, grain, etc. Shipbuilding is carried on to a considerable extent, as well as the making of ropes and sails. The chief manufactures are of cotton, linseed oil and cake ; the mills for crushing and refining oil from linseed and rapeseed, and the192
hull-trinity church.
making of linseed cake are by far the largest in the kingdom. Hull also enjoys a larger amount of the general coasting trade than any other port in England—London and Liverpool excepted.
The town does not possess many architectural attractions, although as a whole it is well built. The streets, in the old parts of the town, are mostly narrow and poor ; but those in the newer parts are spacious and handsome. The Market Place will probably be among the first "places visited On market days this fine street presents an unsightly appearance, especially in wet weather, and is a lasting disgrace to the municipal authorities of " the third port in the kingdom." In the centre of it is Scheemaker's equestrian statue of William III., erected in 1734.
The Church of the Holt Trinity is on the west side of the inarket-place. This ^enerable and interesting edifice is considered to be the largest parish church* in England. It was founded in the beginning of the fourteenth century, or toward the close of the thirteenth. It consists of nave, aisles, chancel, and transepts. The church is as beautiful as it is complete. Its magnificent east window is worthy of the finest cathedral. The centre tower at the crossing of the nave and transepts, with its decorated pinnacles, the light delicate work of the western or nave portion, the fine tracery of the large window of the south transept, will all be found worthy of more than a mere passing glance. The interior is at once light and magnificent. The pointed arches between the nave and the aisles rise nearly to the roof, the space above them being occupied with ranges of clerestory windows, which add to the gracefulness and lightness of the interior. The extreme length is 272 feet, of which the nave occupies 144 "feet, and the chancel 100. The breadth of the nave is 72 feet, and that of the chancel 70. South of the latter is the Broadley Chapel, containing the Broadley tomb, surmounted by an effigy and canopy. There are several other interesting monuments, the chief of which is the recumbent effigy of a female in an arched recess, long built up in the south wall of the chancel, and accidentally discovered in 1821. Another notable tomb will be observed on the same side, but nearer the east window ; it is composed of alabaster, and bears two recumbent effigies, Sir
* It has been restored under the superintendence of Sir Gilbert Scott at a cost of from £30,000 to £40,000, raised from subscriptions by the Hull people and their neighbours.hull-tbinity house.
193
William de la Pole and his wife, with a lion at the feet of the former, and a dog at those of the latter. Sir William is represented as bareheaded, reclining his head on two cushions, habited as a merchant of the period in an outer cloak buttoned close at the neck, with a standing cape, and buttoned down the side. His coat has six buttons on the breast, and the sleeves are buttoned, and reach to his wrists. At his breast hangs a dagger or whittle. The lady is represented as wearing a mitred headdress, falling down in plaits at the sides of her face ; a close gown, buttoned to the waist, with tight sleeves which reach to the wrist; under this is a petticoat, and over it falls a veil In her hand she holds a heart. Her head rests on two cushions supported by angels. This splendid monument has been thoroughly restored. There are some handsome modern monuments in different parts of the church, one of them to the memory of the Rev. Joseph Milner, author of a " History of the Church of Christ," and vicar of this parish, who died in 1797. Among other objects in the interior, that are deserving of notice, are the carved oak screens, the brass lectern, and the handsomely sculptured stone pulpit, executed by R. Wilson of Hull. The great west window of the Nave is a magnificent specimen of modern stained glass, and forms one of the greatest ornaments of the town. It was unveiled on Christmas Day 1862.
There are numerous other churches, most of them handsome buildings, but none of them of any interest to the tourist, with the exception of St. Mary's, or Low Church, in Lowgate. This church was founded in the beginning of the fourteenth century ; but the chancel is the only part of it which can be referred to that date, the rest of the edifice having fallen or been destroyed about the year 1540. The tower was built in 1696, and altered, to harmonise with the ancient part of the church, in 1826. This church underwent enlargement and restoration in 1862.
St. John's Church has a very elegant chancel, the windows in which contain 271 square feet of stained glass of the richest description.
Dissenting chapels are numerous, several of them very elegant buildings.
A New Town Hall has been built on the site of the Old Suffolk Palace and Garden. It is a very handsome building, designed by Mr. Broderick, the architect of the Leeds Town Hall.
Trinity House, in the vicinity of Trinity Church, is a hand-o194
hull-public buildings.
some brick building in the Tuscan style, erected in 1753. It has a pediment of stone, with the figures of Neptune and Britannia supporting the royal arms. The Guild of the Trinity House was established in 1369, and after various modifications in its constitution, its use is now defined to be " the conversation and government of all mariners, and increase of the navies and seamen belonging to the town." This influential guild has also for its object the relief and support of poor mariners, their widows and children. Besides numerous objects of interest in Trinity House are a fine portrait of Andrew Marvel, Captain Cook's chair, and a model of Nelson's flag-ship " Victory," as she appeared after the battle of Trafalgar. This neat model is made out of a piece of the original mast.
The Charter House, in Charter House Lane, was founded by the De la Poles as before stated ; but the present structure, which is of brick, is neither ancient nor interesting. Its object is the support of the " feeble and old." There are numerous other hospitals and charitable institutions.
Of edifices connected with education, the oldest is the Grammar School, founded in 1486, by Bishop Alcocke, the existing structure, however, being Elizabethan both in date and style. Among the masters of this school we find the names of the Rev. Andrew Marvel, father of the great patriot of that name ; the Rev. John Clarke, translator of Suetonius and Sallust; and the Rev. Joseph Milner, the church historian. Among the eminent men educated here may be mentioned the following :— Andrew Marvel, long member of Parliament for Hull; Thomas Watson, D.D., F.R.S., Bishop of St. David's in the time of James IL ; Dr. Isaac Milner, Dean of Carlisle; the late Archdeacon Wrangham ; and William Wilberforce, to whose memory a fine Monument was erected in 1834, in the form of a Doric column surmounted by a statue, near the Junction Dock, at the end of Whitefriargate.
Other prominent buildings are the Merchant^ Exchange, the Itoyal Institution, the Dock Offices, and the Orphan Asylum. Hull has a well-laid-out General Cemetery, a Park, Promenade, and Boulevard, as well as extensive Botanical Gardens.
The Docks, it is scarcely necessary to say, are highly interesting. The Albert or West Dock was opened by the Prince of Wales in 1869, and has been twice subsequently extended and enlarged by an additional dock of six acres in 1880, and anVICINITY OP HULL-COTTINGHAM.
195
adjoining capacious graving-dock 460 feet long. To the west of the Hull river are the Queen's, the Prince's, and the Humber Docks. The latest enterprise connected with Hull is the projected Hull and Barnsley Kail way, which is expected to be completed in 1884 at a cost of £4,000,000. This scheme includes a station near the centre of the town, and a new dock of some forty-six acres to occupy a site east of the existing ones.
VICINITY OF HULL.
Oottingham—Hedon—Patrington—Welwick—Wines tead—Withernsea.
A drive through Hessle to Ferriby and Welton, returning by West Ella and Kirk Ella, commands some of the finest and most charming prospects obtainable in the East Riding. (For Beverley, see p. 31.)
(Nottingham, a pleasant hamlet, 4 miles distant by rail in the same direction, has an interesting Church, in the Early English and Perpendicular styles, consisting of nave, aisles, chancel, and transepts, with a lofty tower at the intersection. The chancel is a fine specimen of Perpendicular work. The great attraction of this church to antiquarians is the old monumental brass in its chancel, over the resting place of Nicholas de Luda. The brass has the carved figure of an ecclesiastic with folded hands, under a beautifully engraved crocketed canopy. Round the edge of the brass runs an inscription, dated 1383. The Latinity is very bad, and some of the lines are quite untranslateable in accordance with grammatical rules.
This Nicholas de Luda, who appears to have been a Capuchin friar, was presented to the rectory by Edward the Black Prince in 1364, and either added the chancel to the church, or rebuilt it on the site of one previously in existence.
There are several smaller brasses in this church. In the south transept there is a painting of the Raising of Lazarus.
The Curfew bell is still occasionally rung at Cottingham.
Near Cottingham once stood Baynard Castle, only the site of which can now be traced. The castle was the residence of the Lord Wakes from the first to the third Edward, but it was consumed by ire long before the time of Hemy VIII. Leyland196
VICINITY OF HULL-COTTINGHAM.
was at Cottingham in 1538, and. describes the remains of the castle in these words :—
" I saw where the Stutvilles' Castle, dcfbell aiied and moated, stode, of the which nothing now remayneth."
In 1590, Camden speaks of Lord "Wake's castle at Cottingham as being evidently an ancient ruin, and utterly fallen to decay.
Hedon, m. eastward (from the Sculcoats station), is a pleasantly situated and thriving market town, though it has none of the commercial importance that made it rank above Hull in the time of Edward I. " The treuth is," says Leland, " that when Hulle began to flourish, Heddon decaied." This place is not mentioned in Domesday, the first authentic records in which it occurs being of the reign of Henry H. In the time of Edward L, Hedon was thought of sufficient importance to be represented in Parliament ; but in the succeeding reign this privilege was withdrawn, doubtless from the growing importance of the neighbouring and rival town. Hedon gradually yielded to its fate ; the deposits formed in its harbour by every tide were allowed to accumulate ; and now there is a luxuriant meadow where, in the days of the fourth Edward, stately ships lay at anchor freighted with the commerce of many lands.
The town consists mainly of one long street, with the market place in its centre. It has a respectable Town Hall. Near the head of the town stands a beautiful old Cross which is believed to have been erected at Ravenspurn or Ravensrode,* in memoiy
* Ravenspurn, Ravenser, or Ravensrode, was an important seaport at the month of the Humber, sheltered from the sea by the point now called Spurn Head. Like Hedon, it returned a member to the Parliaments of Edward I. In 1346 it had suffered so much injury from the sea, that the merchants who resided there removed to Hull, and the dead were transferred to Easington. The high tides of 1357 and subsequent years swept away almost the whole of the port. The vestiges of this ancient town and harbour must have been very small when Boljngbroke landed here to fight for and win the crown of England. Here, again, in 1471, Edward IV. landed, after his brief exile in Holland, to renew the struggle for the House of York, and to overthrow Warwick and the Lancastrian party on the field of Barnet Probably by this time the town of Ravenspurn had wholly disappeared. The name, however, continued to be applied to the spot for some time afterwards; for Leland mentions Ravensburg as ten miles from Patrington, at " the very point on York side of the mouth of the Humber." After this we have no farther reference to the place in any historical records.
Ravenspurn is only one of a list of villages that have been destroyed by the sea in the district of Holderness. Ktt.nbea had its church destroyed in 1826 by the advancing waves, which year by year continue their encroachments upon the vil-VICINITY OF HULL-HEDON.
197
of the landing there of Henry Bolingbroke, Earl of Hereford, afterwards Henry IV., in 1399. To prevent its destruction by the sea, it was first removed to Kilnsea, and again in 1818 to Burton Constable, whence it was in 1832 brought to Hedon, and placed in its present position.
Its Church, " the pride of Holderness," is the great attraction, of Hedon. This edifice with its noble proportions, at once arrests the eye of the tourist on arriving at the station. It consists of nave, aisle, chancel, and transepts, with a tower at the intersection, and is of three periods of architecture—Early English, Decorated, and Perpendicular. The walla of the aisles are each divided into five bays by buttresses, and have double buttresses at the angles. The windows (four in number on each side—one compartment being occupied with a pointed doorway, built up), are pointed, and of three lights, that nearest the west end being filled with Decorated flowing tracery, and the others having a series of plain quatrefoils. At the end of each aisle there is a pointed window with Decorated tracery. The clerestory range on each side is of five pointed windows of two lights. The west window is Perpendicular, of five lights, with a transom. The transepts and chancel are for the most part Early English. The north transept has a fine doorway, with two ranges of three lancet windows in the courses above it. The chancel has plain buttressses at its angles; and the east window is Perpendicular, of five lights. The tower is 129 feet high, and in beautiful proportion, with double buttresses at its corners, and single ones in the centre of each face. Each face has four large Perpendicular windows of three lights, cinquefoiled. It terminates in a handsome pierced parapet and pinnacles. The extreme length of the church, from east to west, is 164 ft. 6 in., and from north to south, 103 ft. 2 in.
The interior of the church is equally deserving of examination. The north and south sides of the chancel have each a tri-forium of six arches, with a clustered column between each arch. On the north side there are three sedilia, and on the south a piscina and ambry. There are triforia also in the transepts.
lage. Owthokne, a village beyond Withernsea, has shared the same fate. On old maps of Yorkshire we may read—" Here stood Auburn which was washed away by the sea;" "Hartburn, washed away by the sea;" "Hyde, lost in the sea." In old documents there is mention made of places, as upon the coast here, which now no longer exist.198
vicinity of hull-patrington.
Four massive piers, from which springs a lofty arch, support the tower. None of the monuments are of much interest.
There is a fine church at Preston, about a mile from Hedon.
Patrington is fourteen miles from Hull by rail. This quiet village was, as ancient records still attest, a place of importance long before the Conquest. At the present day, however, its trade, which consists of agricultural produce, is not extensive. J.ts Church, dedicated to St. Patrick, is a splendid specimen of the decorated style of Gothic architecture, combined, however, with fine Perpendicular work in some places. For purity of taste and design, and for harmony of proportion in its several parts, this edifice is unsurpassed even by the church of Hedon, " the pride of Holderness." Archdeacon Wilberforce pronounced it the model parish church of England. It is of the time of Edward IL, and is probably built on the site, and partly from the materials, of an older structure. Externally and internally alike, it deserves a careful examination.
The Exterior.—The western front is formed into three divisions by buttresses, finished with square pinnacles with pyramidal caps, with foliated crockets and finials. The nave on each side is made into four divisions, and the transepts into three, by buttresses. At the west angle of the south transept there is an octagonal staircase, finished with a pedimental cap and finials, which originally communicated with the interior. The chancel is on each side formed into four divisions by buttresses, and has a pointed doorway in the third division of the north side. The east window, the lower part of which is blocked up, is in seven lights, cinquefoiled, with a transom- It contains some fine Perpendicular tracery. The tower is of three stages, divided by string courses, with double buttresses at the angles. There are four pointed niches in each face of the upper course. An octagonal spire rises from the tower, surrounded at its base by crocketed buttresses, which have, with a gallery and four flying buttresses (one broken) from the angles of the tower, a very elegant effect There are many points in the architecture of the different parts of this church which deserve a careful and deliberate examination, to which our space will not allow us to refer. The gargoyles on the buttresses are very quaint and grotesque. Some of the figures with which the fertile imagination of the builder of this church has adorned its exterior are certainly the reverse of appropriate for such a purpose.VICINITY OF HULL-WELWICK.
T99
The Interior.—The nave is separated from its aisles by pointed arches, rising from clustered columns. The tower rests on four magnificent columns, each consisting of twenty cylindrical shafts, with exquisitely foliated capitals. The transepts, which are similar in architecture to the nave, have aisles which are separated from them by pointed arches. The past aisles of the transepts each contain three chapels, those of the south transept especially being unusual and interesting. Each of the recesses has a piscina. In the cross transept stands a fine old sculptured font. The chancel has three sedilia and a piscina, with crocketed pinnacles and finials. In the north wall there is a curious sculptured recess called the Holy Sepulchre, used before the Reformation in the celebration of the Easter Mysteries. It is in four compartments, two of which are shelves, and the other two representing the figures of a child, a woman, and an angel, and those of three soldiers asleep, respectively.
This church, strange to say, contains no old monuments of any importance. As we turn away, we may take with us some lines from a tablet to a young lady who died of a decline—
" See from the earth the snowy lily rise; It buds, it blooms, then droops its head and dies ; So this fair flower scarce blossomed for a day, Ere she from earth's bleak soil was called away ; And now she blooms where there is no decay."
Besides the church, Patrington has little to attract the tourist. It deserves to be added, however, that Mr. Poulson fixes the site of Praetorium of the Roman itinerary at or near this town. The correctness of this opinion is very doubtful; but there are reasons for believing Patrington to have been a temporary Roman station. Roman coins have been found in the neighbourhood, and an altar, believed to have belonged to the same people, was taken from the foundations of an old house near Patrington church.
Welwick, three miles from Patrington, is worth a visit for the sake of its Church, which contains a magnificent monument, considerably defaced, however, consisting of a recess, formed by a semicircular arch, supported by figures of angels, and crowned by vine leaves, fruit, and flowers. On each side of the arck there is a buttress, terminating in an elegant niche with a mutilated female figure, and surmounted by a crocketed pediment and finial. The roof of the arch is delicately ribbed. The arch200 vicinity op hull-winestead-wtthernsea.
contains a stone coffin with the effigy of a woman in flowing robes, and with folded hands. There is a tradition that this tomb belonged to one of the Albemarles, and was brought from Burstall Priory, before the destruction of that building by the sea, but of this there is no evidence. There can be no doubt, however, that the present is not the original position of the monument, as it is not a mural monument, and was evidently made so as to be approached on either side. Welwick Church also contains a monumental brass, of date 1621, to the memory of " Willm. Wryght of Plewland, Esq*., and Ann his wife, who after they had lived lovingly together y® space of 50 yeares in the feare of God and love of Men finished a faire Pilgrimage to a Ioyful Paradice."
From Welwick to Spurn Head is a walk of about ten miles —the latter part very toilsome. The lighthouse commands an extensive view over both sea and land.
Winestead, 13£ miles distant by rail, has a small Church of considerable antiquity beautifully embosomed among trees. The fabric is dedicated to St. Germain, and consists of only a nave and chancel. Architecturally, the church is not of much pretension ; but it contains some interesting monuments. Two of these arc altar-tombs, and bear the effigies of knights clad in armour. One of them is to the memory of Sir Christopher Hildyard, knight, who died in 1634. This monument is somewhat defaced. The other, which is in excellent preservation, has no inscription, but appears by the arms to have been in memory either of a member of the Hildyard family, or of a person connected with it by marriage. At the foot of this monument is the mutilated stone effigy of an ecclesiastic, with folded hands. In the chancel there is a large Btone with the monumental effigies in brass of Robin, knight of Keidsdale, his lady, and their thirteen children.
Winestead is the birthplace of Andrew Marvell, the patriot and the friend of Milton. His father was rector of the parish, and in the register liis baptism is entered, on March 31st, 1621, in his father's handwriting. No name of his age is more thoroughly deserving of admiration than that of this excellent man and incorruptible senator. As a poet and controversial writer, he holds a high position. He died suddenly, August 16, 1678—it was suspected of poison, though by whom administered is unknown, and was the last M.P. paid by his constituents.
Withernsea, 18 miles due east from Hull by railway, isILKLEY.
201
a little quiet sea-bathing place. The only stone building in the village is the Church, which is a handsome modern edifice, consisting of nave, aisles, chancel, tower, and porch. The chancel is the only part of the fabric which is built of quarried stone, the rest of it being constructed of boulders gathered off the fields or the sea-beach. The interior is tastefully fitted up. The only other note-worthy building is the Hotel, a large and tasteful structure of brick. There is nothing to attract the tourist to Withern-sea, except the sea, and the company who take up their residence in the hotel, and in private lodgings, during the season. The gardens adjoining the hotel are a favourite resort for visitors. The sea is encroaching on the land on this part of the coast.
ILKLEY.
Hotels.—The Middleton, The Crescent, and The Lister Arms.
From Leeds, 16 miles ; Bradford, 14; Ben Rhydding, 1J (page 48).
Hkley is charmingly situated upon the right bank of the Wharfe, six miles above the town of Otley. Antiquarians are agreed that this is the Olvcana of the Romans. An inscription dug up near the church, and preserved in Camden, states that the town was rebuilt in the days of Severus by Yirius Lupus, legate and propraetor—" im. severvs. avg. et antoninvb cjes
DESTINATVS RESTITVERVNT, CVRAJNTE VIRIO LVPO. LEG. EORVM PR. PR." To Camden also we are indebted for the preservation of the inscription once legible on a Roman votive altar found here. The inscription ran thus—" verbeijE sacrvm clodivs fronto PRjEF. coh. ii. lingon." From this it would appear, that the second cohort of the Lingones was stationed here, and that their prefect dedicated this altar to the goddess or nymph Yerbeia— probably the presiding genius of the Wharfe. Professor Phillips remarks, regarding this name, that it "scarcely conceals the British Gwru—rough, rapid—which exactly fits this free and impetuous mountain-stream. The Saxon name Ouerf is scarcely different." Very distinct remains of a Roman camp can be traced on the south side of the Wharfe, near the church ; and in the noighbourhood are entrenchments and camps, " rocking stones," and tumuli of an earlier people.
At the present day Hkley is of considerable note, on account of its two splendid hydropathic establishments, Ilkley Wells202
ILKLEY.
House, in the immediate vicinity of the village {see p. 203), and Ben Rhydding, about a mile distant (see p. 48), which are yearly the resort of large numbers of patients and visitors. There are other establishments, called Craiglands and Troutbeck, with lower charges. Many patients take lodgings in the village, and avail themselves of the medical and hydropathic treatment.
Ilkley has of late years made rapid strides in architectural adornment. Many handsome houses have been erected in the town and neighbourhood, but the most important addition is
St. Margaret's Chdech, situated in the Wells House grounds, at the west of the town. This beautiful church was erected in the Early English style 1878-9 at a cost of £15,000.
There are several good Schools, including the Ilkley College, conspicuous by its observatory tower.
The Parish Church, dedicated to All Saints, and restored in 1861, is a neat but not very important edifice, consisting of nave, aisles, chancel, and tower. It contains an ancient monument (date 1312), the tomb of Sir Adam de Middelton, with his effigy in chain-mail, also a number of brasses across the floor to the memory of Reginald Heber of Hollings Hall, and various members of his family, of dates varying from 1649 to 1653. There is a piscina in the chancel, and the east window is filled with good stained glass, representing the crucifixion. There are some other windows of painted glass, a handsome stone font, and an old carved oak pew.
In the churchyard stand the remains of three Saxon Runic crosses, unequal in height and dissimilar in their ornamentation, but all well deserving of a careful examination. Leland was of opinion that they were monumental, but Whitaker suggests that they may have had some reference to the Holy Trinity.
The scenery within reach of Ilkley is very attractive. About a mile beyond the village, and on the other side of the river, is Middelton Hall, approached through a park which is adorned with many venerable trees. The house, which overlooks Ilkley, is an admirable specimen of a mansion of the Elizabethan age. Visitors are not admitted into the house. The classic ruins of Bolton Priory are reached by a pleasant walk or drive of five miles.* Above Bolton there is much fine scenery. Skip ton, with its castle and church, is nine miles distant. A pleasant * The road along the nprth side of the river is far the most picturesque route.ilkley wells house.
203
walk of about four miles over the heights of Rombald's Moor into Airedale will bring the tourist to Keighley, whence, by walking four miles more, he may reach Haworth, the home and burial-place of the Brontes. The excursion down Wharfedale is also an attractive one. Otley and its neighbourhood, six miles down the valley, are described in a subsequent part of this work. (See Otley and Lower Wharfedale.)
Ilkley Wells House.
Ilkley "Wells House, a stately building in the Italian palazzo style, occupies a fine site on the slope of the hill above the village of Ilkey. It was erected in the year 1856 for the carrying out of all the processes of the water cure, as well as for the reception of visitors in search of nothing but bracing air, attractive sceneiy, and pleasant society. The building is as well arranged internally as it is beautiful externally. The principal apartments are—the dining-room, in which from eighty to a hundred persons can dine comfortably, the public drawing-room, a private drawing-room for ladies, billiard-room, news-room, sitting rooms, etc. In an elegant colonnade erected in the grounds there are an American bowling alley and other provisions for the amusement and healthy exercise of patients and visitors. The grounds are extensive, and are laid out with much taste.
The medical direction of this establishment is in the hands of Dr. J. F. Leeson. The treatment embraces all the processes of the hydropathic system, including the Turkish or hot-air bath. Dr. Leeson combines with the hydropathic treatment the use of drugs, and the other resources of medical science, when these are deemed necessary to supplement it. . From what has been observed regarding the attractive scenery within reach of Ilkley, it scarcely requires to be stated here that Ilkley Wells House is an agreeable residence. It possesses all the means and appliances for making a few days or weeks pass very pleasantly.
As a winter resort it offers the inducements of an equable climate and an atmosphere often bright and clear when the low lying plains of Yorkshire and Lancashire are enveloped in the densest fog.204
ingleborough.
A skating rink, 500 square yards in extent, and laid with Val de Travers' cement, is attached to the establishment.
The general scale of charges is about 10s. 6d. a day for board and lodging. Visitors not remaining a full week pay a small additional sum for their bedroom. Special terms are made for the winter months.
INGLEBOROUGH,
AND THE NEIGHBOURING- HEIGHTS.
The mountains of Yorkshire form a subject of vast interest to the geologist and the botanist. In common with the other features of the country, they have been ably described by Professor Phillips and other writers, to whose works those who wish full information on the whole subject must be referred.* The plan of this work does not admit of a detailed account of the principal mountains of the county. The main, heights will be found noticed in connection with places of interest in their neighbourhood. Ingleborough is here selected for special notice on account of those famous caves, which render it, to the general tourist, by far the most interesting and important of the mountains of Yorkshire. Along with it may be conveniently noticed the principal features of the neighbouring hill district.
Ingleborough, according to the Ordnance Survey, is 2361 feet in height, being inferior only to Mickle Fell (2600), and Whernside (2384). It maybe reached from the Clapham, Ingleton, or Ribblehead Station (the latter on the Settle and Carlisle line). The first-named is the more convenient point for reaching the principal cave. Conveyances may, if desired, be obtained at an inn
* See Professor Phillips's " Geology of Yorkshire," in 2 vols.; " Geological Chart;" and " Rivers, Mountains, and Sea-Coasts of Yorkshire;" Baines's " Flora of Yorkshire;" Young and Bird's " Geology of the Yorkshire Coast," etc.ingleborough cave.
205
close to the station ; the walk to the village, however, is short and easy. Clapham—(Inns: The New Inn; Bull and Gave)— is a charmingly picturesque village, irregularly built on the banks of a small brook, and embowered among fine trees. It has a neat modern Church, dedicated to St. James. Ingleborough Hall, the residence of J. W. Fairer, Esq., the lord of the manor, is in the neighbourhood of the village. The view from Ingleborough includes, in clear weather, a fine panorama of the more rugged and diversified mountains of the Lake District, extending from the Coniston Old Man to Helvellyn. Scafell Pike is visible. " Its conical mass," 6ays Mr. Phillips, " is crowned by a nearly flat cap of millstone grit, and is founded on a vast tabular surface of time-worn limestone rocks, these being in their turn supported by huge cliffs of massive and slaty Silurian strata. Magnificent caverns penetrate into the substance of Ingleborough, and on every side large cavities swallow up the moisture collected about the summit. Purified by trickling through the subterranean clefts of rocks, the water issues from the clearest of fountains with a constant temperature, often depositing on the surface the calcareous earth which it had dissolved on its passage, and had refused to give up to the stalactites which are always growing in the caverns."
The caverns are numerous. The largest and most magnificent of them is that which goes by the name of the Ingleborough Cave.
The Ingleborough Cave cannot be seen without a guide, who may be found either in the village of Clapham, or at the station inn. (The charge for a single person is 2s. 6d., but the rates are much lower for each member of a party.—Ladies who intend to explore these caves should not go in dresses which will be easily spoiled.) The gate of the cave is kept locked for the preservation of the stalactites with which it is adorned.
This cavern is of great extent. Till not many years ago only about eighty yards of it were known; and it was by the explorations of Mr. Fairer, the present proprietor, that the vast' and beautiful grotto, as it is now exhibited to the tourist, was laid open. It is about half a mile in extent, but seems longer from the time taken in exploring it. It is by no means improbable that future discoveries may open up chambers extending still farther into the bowels of the mountain. The course of the cavern is first north, then north-west, then north and north-east,206
INGLEBOROUGH.
and finally east. In some places its roof admits of persons waiting erect; in others it is necessary to stoop, more or less ; while in one or two places the only practicable way of proceeding is by clambering along on the hands and feet—a mode of locomotion requiring some skill, particularly if the tourist wear a hat for which he has any regard. At these latter places wooden shields are provided for the hands, and make the passage much easier than it would otherwise be. At eyeiy step there is some object to attract the attention of the visitor. Stalactites and stalagmites may be seen in every stage of advancement, from the incipient drop to the complete pillar. As the guide who conducts the tourist will not fail to dilate on the various features of interest, a minute enumeration of them here is unnecessary. There is one peculiarly fine stalactitic pillar. A curiously-shaped mass of stalagmite, called the " Jockey Cap," ten feet in circumference at the base, and about two feet high, is calculated to have been formed by the continual droppings of 260 years. One part of the cave, called the " Gothic Archway," is exceedingly beautifuL It has the beauty, and almost the regularity, of an aisle of the finest pointed architecture. The effect of the lights on the surface of the water in various places is very striking.
The rill of water which flows through this cave, and the much larger stream which is heard at a lower level, and issues from the foot of the rock a little way from the entrance of the cave, are derived from the hill overhead. If the tourist ascend Ingleborough, he will find it worth while to take a look on his way at the chasm called Gaping Gill Hole. Here a stream of water falls into the bowels of the mountain to a vast depth. The time which elapses before the sound produced by a stone thrown into it dies away may serve to give the visitor an idea of the profundity of this gloomy abyss. This is the only known opening into the cave from the upper ground. The water flows for at least a mile in the heart of the mountain before it reappears. There are numerous pot holes of this description in the sides of the mountain.
The summit of Ingleborough is the site of an ancient British Camp. It is in shape an irregular quadrangle, of which the longest Bide is somewhat less than 400 yards, and the shortest about 220. The area enclosed by the walls, which are of gritstone, is about 15 acres. Within this space there are the horseshoe-shaped foundations of nineteen ancient huts, about 30 feetingleborough—whernside.
207
in diameter. All of them have their openings towards the south-oast, doubtless to avoid the bitter blasts which come from the north-west. There are no traces of fire in these huts.
Whernside, the neighbouring and slightly higher summit, can be easily ascended from the east and south, but is very precipitous on the north and west. It is insulated by valleys, in the exploration of which some days might be very .pleasantly spent. Near the summit of the mountain, which, like that of Ingleborough, commands magnificent views, there are three small lakes. Westward from Whernside, and on the border of the county, is the point called Dent Crag, or County Stone. At this point the three counties of Yorkshire, Westmoreland, and Lancashire meet Dentdale itself is, perhaps, the most striking illustration of simple, pastoral beauty, without any affectation of grandeur, in the north of England. It is seen to great advantage from the viaducts of the Midland Eailway between Blea Moor Tunnel and Hawes Junction. The village of Dent is the birthplace of Professor Sedgwick, the eminent geologist.
There are numerous caves in this group of mountains, inferior in extent and importance to the one in Clapdale already noticed, but still extremely interesting. These may be most conveniently reached from the village of Ingleton, about four miles from Clapham by road or rail. The two little valleys of Gretadale or Chapeldale and Kingsdale, which unite at Ingleton, are both deserving of being traced to their head, on account not only of the caves which they contain, but of the grand views of Ingleborough and Whernside which they afford from various points.
Gretadale lies between Ingleborough and Whernside, within a mile of which on the fell side are Douk Caves, containing a small cascade. About four miles up it is the little hamlet and church of Chapel-le-Dale. The chapel is a very small one, having accommodation for scarcely a hundred persons ; but it is large enough for the scattered and scanty population of this district. Southey draws a charming picture of this secluded spot in " The Doctor." This was the birthplace of Doctor Daniel Dove and of his progenitors, " all Doves and Daniels, in uninterrupted succession from time immemorial," The following is the description of the chapel—to which Southey has added a porch which it does not possess:—208
INGLEBOHOUQH-CHAPEL-LE-DALE.
" The little church, called Chapel le Dale, stands about a bowshot from the family house. There they had all been carried to the font ; there they had each led his bride to the altar; and thither they had, each in their turn, been borne upon the shoulders of their friends and neighbours. Earth to earth they had been consigned there for so many generations, that half of the soil of the churchyard consisted of their remains. A hermit, who might wish his grave to be as quiet as his cell, could imagine no fitter resting place. On three sides there was an irregular low stone wall, rather to mark the limits of the sacred ground than to inclose it ; on the fourth, it was bounded by the brook, whose waters proceed by a subterraneous channel from Weather-cote cave. Two or three alders and rowan trees hung over the brook, and shed their leaves and seeds into the stream. Some bushy hazels grew at intervals along the lines of the wall; and a few ash trees, as the wind had sown them. To the east and west some fields adjoined it, in that state of half cultivation which gives a human character to solitude : to the south, on the other side the brook, the common, with its limestone rocks peering everywhere above ground, extended to the foot of Ingleborough. A craggy hill, feathered with birch, sheltered it from the north.
" The turf was as soft and fine as that of the adjoining hills; it was seldom broken, so scanty was the population to which it was appropriated ; scarcely a thistle or a nettle deformed it, and the few tombstones which had been placed there were now themselves half buried. The sheep came over the wall when they listed, and sometimes took shelter in the porch from the storm. Their voices, and the cry of the kite wheeling above, were the only sounds which were heard there, except when the single bell which hung in its niche over the entrance tinkled for service on the Sabbath day, or with a slower tongue gave notice that one of the children of the soil was returning to the earth from which he sprung."
Above Chapel-le-Dale there is a Beries of caves not far from each other. The first of these, called Hurtle Pot, has its entrance overhung with trees and fringed with ferns. The deep pool in its bottom nourishes black trout. Farther up is Oingle Pot, which is dry, except in very rainy weather, but has heaps of water-worn pebbles on its floor. A little farther up the dale is the gem of this neighbourhood, Weathercote Cave. The key is kept at aingleborotjgh-caves.
209
house near the cavern, and the charge for admission is one shilling.
Weathercote Cave is eminently worthy of a visit. It is possessed of an attraction unusual in such places—a magnificent cascade 75 feet high. This waterfall is much admired by artists, and has often employed their pencils. When the morning sun shines into the cave it produces a vivid rainbow with the spray which fills it. The water disappears in a fissure in the floor of the cave as it falls, and runs underground for about a mile. A huge block of stone, suspended between vertical cliffs, overhangs the fall, and adds greatly to the effect of the scene. The cave ia of lozenge shape, and is divided into two by an arch of rock. The extreme length is 60 yards, and the breadth 30 yards. Its mouth is picturesquely shaded with trees.
Ascending the beck from Weathercote, another mile will bring the tourist to Gatekirk Cave. This cavern is 100 yards long, and has two entrances, one towards the north, the other towards the south. It is richly ornamented with stalactites, and is traversed by the principal feeder of the Greta—the same stream which passes through Weathercote Cave. A mile or two farther, and the tourist will be under the frowning bro^ of Whernside.
kingsdale may be reached from the upper part of Gretadale by a walk of about three miles westward across the moors. The tourist, starting from Ingleton, may thus go up the one dale and return down the other. We take the objects of interest in this dale in the order in which they present themselves in the descent from its source towards Ingleton.
Tor das Cave is near the foot of the slopes of Graygarth, or Gragreth, on the south-west side of Whernside, and about four and a half miles north of Ingleton. The entrance is through a rude arched opening, closed by a door for the protection of the stalactites. The principal part of thiB cave consists of a lofty apartment, 180 feet long and 60 high, adorned with stalactites and stalagmites, some of which are of curious shapes. A narrow passage leads to a circidar chamber beyond. The bed-chamber, oven, etc., of Tordas, the mythical personage who has given his name to the cave, are also pointed out. A small cascade in the circular apartment alluded to considerably heightens the effect of this fine cave.
The scars which occupy the western side of the valley below
p210
JERVAUX ABBEY
Yordas Cave axe veiy remarkable. Tier upon tier of rocks rises from the edge of the stream, parallel to the sides of Graygarth, presenting many features of interest to the geologist. One cliff, called Thornton Scar, which rises to a height of about 300 feet, is in some places very picturesquely clad with ivy and other plants. Thornton Force, a fine cascade at a short distance from the scar, falls about 90 feet from a ledge of limestone over a breast of slate. Thornton Force is about a mile and a half from Ingleton.
Penyghent, which rises with a bold, well-marked outline on the east of Ingleborough, from which it is separated by the head of Ribblesdale, is deserving of a brief notice here. It is 2270 feet high, and is easy of ascent from Horton, a village 6 miles from Settle, with a station on the Midland Eailway (p. 13). It has a church (St. Oswald's), which, according to Whitaker, dates from the reign of Stephen. The columns and arches are genuine Norman work, the latter having in some places the zigzag ornamentation. The ascent of Penyghent may also be combined in the same excursion with that of Ingleborough, taking Ingleton as the starting point, as above. The view from its summit is good, but not so striking as that from Ingleborough. In the scar limestone of this mountain there are several caves, " swallow -holes," and fantastic little glens, which there is not space to notice in detail. At Gearstones, near the source of the Babble, and the Ribblehead Station, there is a country inn, where the tourist can find shelter and homely entertainment when bent on exploring this interesting district
Serbaux
Prom Leyburn, 6 miles ; Bedale, 7 ; Masham, 5 ; Ripon, 15.
(Visitors should apply at the gardener's cottage.)
The ruins of Jervaux Abbey (pronounced Jarvis) are pleasantly situated on the right bank of the Ure, at the bottom of the great valley of Wensleydale. They can be conveniently visited from Leyburn—Middleham Castle, the stronghold of the great King-maker, being included in the excursion.*
* The pedestrian should take a footpath to the left immediately after, crossing Cover Bridge, 1J m. beyond Middleham. This track follows the course of the Ure all the way and cuts off a sharp corner.JERVAUX ABBEY.
211
Jervaux Abbey was founded in 1156, by Gonan, fifth Earl of Richmond, for Cistercian monks. Succeeding earls added to its endowments ; and at the Dissolution the gross annual revenue was £455 :10:5. The last of the abbots of this house was executed at Tyburn, for having taken part in the Pilgrimage of Grace. The reader of Scott will scarcely need to be reminded that Prior Aymer of Jorvaulx (as Sir Walter prefers to spell it) is an important personage in Ivanhoe.
The remains, though not extensive, are interesting. In addition to the fragments of walls which still rise in picturesque masses, festooned with ivy, the foundations of the whole of the abbey buildings, excavated in 1805 by the Marquis of Ailesbury, may be examined.
JERVAUX ABBEY.
The abbey church and conventual buildings can be distinguished with the utmost correctness. The church is 270 feet long. On its floors there are many tombstones, with their inscriptions still legible. Here also is the mutilated effigy of Lord Fitzhugh, who died in 1424. Adjoining the nave, on its south side, was the quadrangular, or cloister court. On the west212
KEIGHliBT.
side of this court was a range of cloisters, with the dormitory above ; and on its east side the chapter-house and refectory. The chapter-house adjoins the south transept. It is a noble apartment, 48 feet by 35, and still displays the hexagonal columns of grey marble which supported the groined roof, and the stone benches on which the members of the chapter sat. Here the abbots were buried ; and the tomb-stones of several of them may be seen. The remains of the refectory, also, are very interesting ; the walls are somewhat higher than those of any other part of the abbey, and the late Norman and Early English styles can be very distinctly noticed in its architecture. The kitchen, of course, immediately adjoins the refectory; and its huge fireplaces, the freestone of which still shews the effect of intense heat, sufficiently prove that the monks of Jervaui were not indifferent to the pleasures of the table. Beyond the kitchen and adjoining apartments is the site of the abbot's house.
The grounds surrounding Jervaux Abbey are well kept, being planted with shrubs and flowers, and laid out with walks. The spot, altogether, is very attractive.
KEIGHLEY.
Inns.—The Devonshire Anns, John Ellison ; Wellington; Midland Hotel;
The Queen; Hare and Hounds.
Prom Leeds, 17J miles; Bradford, 9£; Skipton, 8}.
Keighley (pronounced Keithley) is picturesque in spite of its chimneys. It is situated in a hollow at the foot of several high but gently sloping hills, about four hundred yards from the southern bank of the Aire ; and the views from several points, particularly from the heights on the opposite side of the stream, are very striking. This town is of no historical note, the only fact recorded in connection with it, in former times, being an insignificant skirmish between the Royalists and the Parliamentarians.
The population of Keighley in 1871 amounted to 28,059. The town has obtained notoriety, if not fame, from the " dead set" made by its guardians at vaccination some years ago. There are numerous factories, which give employment to a large portion of the inhabitants. The principal manufactures are worsted goods.
The Pabish Church, dedicated to St. Andrew, is a large and elegant building, probably erected in the reign of Henry I. Itej.rkby moorside.
213
has, however, undergone some alterations. The interior is very handsomely fitted up. The east window is filled with fine modern stained glass, representing the Crucifixion, with the "Virgin on our Saviour's right, and St. John on his left. The baptismal font, and its finely carved canopy of tabernacle work, also modern, are well worthy of notice. The church is as tastefully and handsomely pewed as the best metropolitan edifices of the same kind. In the north aisle there are two remarkable gravestones. Each of them has a cross, and one a sword and two escutcheons—the higher nearly effaced, the lower charged with a cross fieury, and circumscribed—(Silbertns	ire StlBg it
gJarjjHria «*ar	This date is of such
an unusual antiquity that some writers have supposed that the original date was 1203, and that the <M of the inscription, becoming defaced by time or accident, were restored as %% by some careless hand. The conjecture is by no means improbable.
There are in Keighley several respectable public buildings, chief among which the Craven Bank deserves to be noticed. The County Court is neat, though small; and two Methodist chapels display more taste than one commonly finds in such buildings. The town is built of stone—a feature which distinguishes it pleasingly from many towns of its class in Yorkshire and the midland counties.
From Keighley the tourist may conveniently visit Haworth, which is about 4 miles distant. (See IIaworth.)
A pleasant walk of about the same length, in the opposite direction, over the heights of Bombald's Moor, will bring him to Llkley (which see).
KIRBY MOORSIDE.
Inns.—White Horse, King's Head, Black Swan.
Distances.
From Pickering, 7 miles; Helmsley, 5J.
This is an irregularly built, but pleasant little market-town of nearly 2000 inhabitants. It is a station on the loop line of railway which, leaving Gilling Junction and striking north by Helmsley, joins the Whitby line at Pickering. The station is a short distance south of the village.
The Church is an ancient building, and consists of nave,214 KIRKBST MOORSIDE-THU DUKE OF BUCKINGHAM.
aisles, and chancel, with a square tower at the west end surmounted by battlements and pinnacles. On the south side of the nave there is a massive circular porch ; but the prevailing style is Decorated. Among other monuments in the interior, there is a brass to the memory of a Lady Brooke, with the carved figures of herself and her six. sons and five daughters.
This town derives its chief interest from its associations with George Yilliers, the famous Duke of Buckingham, who died in a house in the market-place (not " the worst inn's worst room," for there is no tradition of the house having ever been an inn). This house is next door to the King's Head inn, and may be visited by the tourist. The poet has taken rather more than the usual license in describing the scene of the death of this remarkable man, or he has been misinformed. The following are Pope's famous lines :—
" In the worst inn's worst room, with mat half-hung, The floors of plaster, and the walls of dung, On once a flock-bed, but repaired with straw, With tape-tied curtains, never meant to draw, The George and Garter dangling from that bed Where tawdry yellow strove with dirty red, Great Villiers lies—alas I how changed from him, That life of pleasure, and that soul of whim I Gallant aud gay in Cliveden's proud alcove, The bower of wanton Shrewsbury and love; Or just as gay at council, in a ring Of mimic statesmen, and their merry king. No wit to flatter left of all his store ! No fool to laugh at, which he valued more. There, victor of his health, of fortune, friends, And fame, this lord of useless thousands ends." *
" When this extraordinary man," says Horace Walpole, " with the figure and genius of Alcibiades, could equally charm the Presbyterian Fairfax and the dissolute Charles ; when he alike ridiculed that witty king and his solemn chancellor; when he plotted the ruin of his country with a cabal of bad ministers, or, equally unprincipled, supported its cause with bad patriots— one laments that such parts should have been devoid of every virtue. But when Alcibiades turns chymist, when he is a real bubble, and a visionary miser ; when ambition is but a frolic ; when the worst designs are for the foolishest ends—contempt extinguishes all reflections on his character." + The account
* " Moral Essays," Epistle iii. ver. 299-314. t " Catalogue of Noble Authors," vol. ii. p. 77kirkdale church.
215
which Pope has given regarding the death of Buckingham, in a note to the passage quoted above, is as follows :—" This Lord, yet more famous for his vices than his misfortunes, having been possessed of about .£50,000 a-year, and passed through many of the highest posts in the kingdom, died in the year 1687, in a remote inn in Yorkshire, reduced to the utmost miseiy." His burial is recorded in the parish register as follows :—" 1687, April 17th. Gorges vilaus Lord dooke of bookingam."
Kirkby Moorside is near the Dove. The scenery of Farndale, the valley traversed by this stream, is varied and pleasing.
Kirkdale Church and -Cave. Kirkdale is an extensive but thinly-iuhabited parish, running parallel to that of Kirkby Moorside, and watered by Hodge Beck. This stream is swallowed up in the limestone rock near Kirkdale, but reappears farther down the valley. Kirkdale Church occupies a most sequestered and beautiful position in the lower part of the vale, one and a quarter mile from Kirkby Moorside, and about eight from Pickering. It consists of nave and chancel, with a small turret at the west end. The building has undergone many alterations and patchings, none of them improvements ; but some very early Norman work still remains to charm the antiquarian with its rude simplicity. A curious dial over the south door, with a Saxon inscription, assigns to this church—though not of course to the building as it now stands—an antiquity possessed by very few edifices in this country. The inscription states that it was built in the days of King Edward and Earl Tosti—that is, about 1060. The value of such a relic as this to the archaeologist'can hardly be over-estimated, as the instances are very rare in which such distinct and indisputable Saxon work has been preserved to our times. The inscription deserves to be quoted. The sundial is on a semicircular plan, divided into eight hour spaces. Above the dial are the words—" this is djeges sol merca" (this is day's sun mark) ; below, on the semicircle—"jet ilcum tide" (at every time); and at the bottom—" + & haward me wrohte & brand prs" (and Haward me wrought and Brand Priest). There are two other compartments,, one on either side of the diaL The inscription on these sides runs thus—
"ORM . GAMAL . SUNA . BOHTE . SCS . GRGGORIUS MlNbl'ER . DONNE HIT . WES jeh TO BROCAN . & TO FALAN . & HE HIT LET MACAN NEWAN FROM GRUNDE CHRP . Sc 5CS GREGORIUS . IN . EADWARD .
dagum.cng.in tosti. dagum .eorl +" (Orru, Gamal's son,216
KIRKDALE CAVE.
bought St. Gregory's Minster, when it was all broken and fallen. And he caused it to be made anew from ground to Christ and St. Gregory, in Edward's days king, in Tosti's days earl). The interior of the church is interesting, and contains some elegant monuments. There is said to be another dial, of somewhat similar style to that of Kirkdale, at Edstone, a hamlet about a mile south of Kirby Moorside ; but its inscription is imperfect. Reference may be made to Tudor's Sketch of Kirkdale Church, Lond. 1876.
Kirkdale Cave, celebrated for the fossil bones which were discovered in it, is a short distance from the church, on the road to Helmsley. It was discovered in 1821, in the working of the limestone quarry in which it is situated. The floor of this cave is about thirty feet above the present level of the beck. There is much probability in the theory that, at the time when the animals lived whose bones have been found here, the Yale of Pickering was a great lake ; for it is difficult to account for the presence of these bones in the cave on any other hypothesis. Professor Buckland, who carefully examined the cave shortly after its discovery, gave the following list of animals, whose fossil remains he had found in it:—hyaena, lion, tiger, bear, wolf, fox, weasel; elephant, rhinoceros, hippopotamus, horse ; ox, deer (three species); hare, rabbit, water-rat, mouse ; raven, pigeon, lark, diuck, partridge. The bones were found in a layer of mud, about a foot thick, which covered the floor of the cave, and were in a nearly fresh state, still retaining their animal gelatine. They were mostly broken and gnawed in pieces, and were intermixed with teeth. The only probable conjecture to account for the presence of these bones here is that offered by Professor Buckland, that this cave has been a den of hyaenas, and that the bones were carried in for food by them. What a picture may the imagination thus call up of the Yale of Pickering, as it existed ages before the Brigantes began to build their rude huts and to rear their burial mounds ! On the borders of a vast lake lived species of animals, many of which have not been in existence in this country within the period embraced by the remotest tradition. The elephant, the hippopotamus, and the rhinoceros, traversed its banks or disported in its waters ; the lion and tiger lay in wait for the deer as they came to its margin to drink ; the hyaena was ready to feed on the relics of their prey, or to overpower the nobler animals themselves, when the opportunity presented itself; whilst numerous animal? and birdsKIBKHAM PRIORY.
217
still in existence filled their appropriate places in the economy of nature, and preyed on, or were preyed on by, each other.
From Kirkby Moorside, the tourist may proceed by a pleasant excursion to Pickering, visiting Lastingham, with its very interesting Norman church, about six miles distant; Cropton, with its British fort, two miles from Lastingham ; Cawthorne, with its Roman camp, a mile farther ; and Levisham, with its picturesque glens, peculiarly interesting to the botanist and geologist, between two and three miles farther. At Levisham the railway is reached, and the tourist can proceed to Pickering or Whitby. See the Vicinity of Pickering.
KIRKHAM PRIORY.
From Malton, 6 miles; York, 15}; Scarborough, 27.
The Priory of Kirkham is beautifully situated on the left bank of the Derwent, close to the Kirkham station on the York and Scarborough Railway. It was founded in 1121 by Sir Walter L'Espec, and Adeline his wife. This pious act is said to have been performed after the death of their only son by a fall from his horse. The bereaved father consulted his uncle, then rector of Garton, who advised him to make Christ his heir by devoting his wealth to founding three religious houses. The result of this recommendation was the foundation and liberal endowment of Kirkham and Rievaux in this county, and Wardon in Bedfordshire.* The curious in such matters may find in Burton and Dugdale an account of the numerous estates with which this priory was endowed, and a list of priors from its foundation to its dissolution.
The remains are not extensive, but they are well worthy of a visit. The view from the railway is very pleasing. The ruin, one mass of which presents a tall and fine Gothic arch, has the Derwent in front, falling over a mimic cascade, and rich woodland scenery in the background. Proceeding to a more particular examination of this priory, the principal portion of it, as it now Gtands, is the Gateway. If we may judge of the priory from this * It has recently been asserted, on the authority of the writings of Aelred, abbot and historian of Rievaux, that Walter L'Espec never had a son. All that Aelred says is that L'Espec, who was at the battle of the Standard, had then (1138) no children, not that he never had any (Decern Scriptores, coL 338). Dugdale tells the story with much circumstantiality, and apparently with no doubt of its truth. See his Monasticon Anglicanum, vol. i. p. 727.218
KIRKSTAT.T. ABBEY.
part of it, it must have been a structure of great magnificence. The gateway apparently belongs to the time of Edward I. It is pointed, but very slightly, shewing the transition from the early English to the Decorated style. The archway is surmounted by a large pediment, crocketed, and terminating in a finial. Above the archway are two windows, both of them of two lights, with trefoil heads. Above these windows, as well as over the spaces between and adjoining them, is a series of fine crocketed pediments ; and the whole is surmounted by quatrefoil panelling, considerably damaged Between the windows are two niches, with mutilated statues. There are various other niches on the gateway, some with statues and others without them. Among the figures the ingenuity of antiquarians has recognised St. Peter, Pilate sitting in judgment, St. George and the Dragon, David and Goliah, etc. There are numerous shields on this-front, bearing the arms of the priory, and other heraldic devices. On the right of the gateway are the remains of a cross. Of the Church only the east end of the chancel remains. The mouldings and carvings are of great beauty. A lofty Gothic tower, picturesquely clad with ivy, is said to have stood till 1784, when it was blown down by a high wind. Some portion of the cloisters may yet be 6een.
Ifttrftstaii
Admission 2d. From Leeds, 3 miles, by rail or tram (every 10 min.); Bradford, 10,
The ruins of Kirkstall Abbey occupy a site on the left bank of the Aire, which still retains not a little picturesqueness, in spite of the presence in its neighbourhood of an iron foundry and numerous tall brick chimneys. They form one of the great attractions of Leeds, and are accessible by many trains in the course of the day.
The Abbey was founded in 1152, by Henry de Lacy, the great baron of Pontefract, in fulfilment of a vow which he had made while suffering under a dangerous illness. A colony of Cistercian monks from Fountains Abbey settled here upon the invitation of De Lacy, who, in addition to the grant of the beautiful site for their monastery, plentifully supplied them with money and provisions. - The monks throve under the protectionkirkstall abbet.
219
of this powerful and generous patron; and under him and Lib successor they considerably extended their boundaries. Hard times, however, seem to have followed, or the monks were improvident, for in 1284 we find them in debt to the extent of £5248 : 15 : 7. The affairs of the monastery were considerably retrieved towards the end of the century, the debt being reduced to <£160. The gross annual value at the Dissolution in 1540 was stated at £512: 13:4. The site was granted by Henry VHI., in exchange for other lands, to Thomas Cranmer, Archbishop of Canterbury. After various transmissions, the abbey and some adjacent estates came into the possession of the Earls of Cardigan, with whom they still remain.
These ruins are considered among the most beautiful in England ; and a day would not be ill spent in a minute examination of them in their various parts. After paying a trifling fee to the person in charge of the Abbey, the tourist is at liberty to examine at leisure, and in whatever order he pleases, the different conventual buildings.
The Church is in the form of a cross, with a square tower at the intersection. The tower remained entire till 1779, when two sides, and part of a third, fell down. This catastrophe, though to be lamented, has probably increased the picturesque-ness of the ruin. The body of the church consists of a nave and two side aisles, divided by massy clustered columns, terminating in pointed arches, over which is a range of windows with round arches. The view of the interior from the west end is exquisite. Indeed, both the interior and exterior, from numberless points, present views which artists are fond of transferring to their sketch-books or their canvas. The east window is pointed, but the west end is Norman, and in good preservation. The west doorway is particularly deserving of notice: it consists of five circular receding arches, the centre one bearing the zig-zag moulding, the others plain. The cylindrical shafts from which the arches of this doorway rose have been removed. The north-west doorway, which has sustained a good deal of injury, and is walled op, is also Norman, and of four arches—the outer one bearing the embattled moulding. The, era at which this abbey was erected appears to have been a transition period ; for both the round and pointed arches in the body of the church must have been built at the same time. The architecture of the whole structure is remarkable for its chasteness and simplicity. The roof, between220
kjrkstall abbey.
the east end and the tower, was adorned with fret-work and intersecting arches, but has been long destroyed- There are no traces of any monuments in the interior. In the south wall of the choir there is an arched recess which has probably contained sedilia. On each side of this there is a piscina. The choir has on each side of it three chapels with vaulted roofs. The church is 224 ft. 6 in. long ; 118 ft. 3 in. across the transepts ; and 62 ft. 6 in. across the nave and aisles. It is remarkable that it deviates from due east and west.
The Cloister Court, one side of which is formed by the south wall of the church, is a quadrangle of 143 ft. by 115. On entering this court, the tourist sees on every side of him genuine Norman work. Doorways and windows—some of the more simple, others of the more elaborate Norman style—opening from the church, the chapter-house, refectory, etc., invite, and will reward examination. There are here one or two broken tombstones, but they are of no interest.
The Chapter House adjoins the south transept of the church. It is entered from the cloister court by two circular doorways, and measures 64 ft. 9 in., by 30 ft. 6 in. From two massive columns spring the intersecting arches which support the groined roof of the western portion of this fine apartment. The eastern half of this apartment is of more recent construction than the western, being an addition of the early part of the fourteenth century. Its roof has not been supported by columns like that of the western part, the groins springing from angle to angle. In the walls there are several stone coffins. Adjoining the chapter house, on the south, there are two small arched apartments, the use of which is not known.
Coming to the south side of the cloister court, we next reach the Refectory, with four doorways, now walled up. A door at the south-east corner of this apartment communicates with the Kitchen, where the ovens, with other indications of the nature of the apartment, were found on clearing away the rubbish. Eastward, again, from the kitchen and refectory have been the different buildings of the Abbot's Residence, including hall, court, offices, private chapel, etc. Still farther east are the newly excavated foundations of what has probably been the Hospitium, or house of entertainment for strangers.
Continuing the survey of the monastic buildings in the order in which they present themselves round the cloister court, theKNARESBOROTJGH.
221
apartment west from the refectory is believed to have "been the Common Room. A wide passage adjoins it, on its west side, forming the main entrance to the court, and having a circular arch at each end. The Cloisters form the west side of the court, and have constituted a noble double-arched promenade for the monks, 172 ft. 6 in. long, and 29 ft. broad. A building adjoining the cloisters on the south-west is supposed by Dr. Burton to have been the Infirmary. The dormitories of the monks and of the lay-brothers have been on the storeys above the chapterhouse, and adjacent buildings to the south, and the cloisters.
The Gatehouse, about 120 yards to the north-west of the abbey, has been a building of great strength. It is in good preservation, and is attached to the residence of A. S. Beecroft, Esq., M.P.
" It is to the neglect of two centuries and a half, the unregarded growth of ivy, and the maturity of vast elms and other forest trees which have been suffered to spring up among the walls," says Whitaker, " that Kirkstall is become, as a single object, the most picturesque and beautiful ruin in the kingdom. Add to all this the mellowing hand of time, which, by rounding angles, breaking lines, and softening down the glare of recent colouring, may be regarded as the first of all landscape painters."
And so the fine old ruin stands, in the neighbourhood of furnaces and factories such as its founders never dreamed of, a thing of beauty, asking nothing from the busy industry around but to be protected from violence, and left to gradual and inevitable, but picturesque decay.
KNARESBOROTJGH.
Hotels.—Elephant and Castle, The Crown.
Distances.
Prom Harrogate, 3 miles; Boroughbridge, 7; York, 16|; Thirsk, 21; Leeds, 20.
Whether on account of its situation, or its historical and literary associations, Knaresborough is a most interesting town. " If Knaresborough," remarks Mr. Phillips, " must yield the palm to Richmond, it may boldly challenge any other town in Yorkshire to match its river, rocks, wood, castles, and houses piled up the sides of the cliff." From its position, this town was probably a settlement of the ancient Britons ; but on this point we have no precise information. The remains of an ancient ditch and ram-222
KNARESBOBOTTGH.
part have been, traced, "which may have been constructed eithei by the Britons or by the Romans. There can be no doubt that the latter people occupied the place, as Roman coins and other relics have been found here. At the Conquest, Knaresborough was a complete Saxon manor. It suffered severely in the ruthless devastation with which William the Conqueror visited the whole country between York and Durham in 1070. The ancient history of Knaresborough is necessarily that of its castle; for it was from the beetling fortress that crowned the cliff that the houses, which clustered round for protection, derived any importance.
The manor of Knaresborough was bestowed by the Conqueror on Serlo de Burgh, Baron of Tonsburgh, in Normandy, who built a castle here, no part of which now remains. The more prominent features in the history of the place are touched upon in the following passages from Sir Edward Bulwer Lytton's novel of Eugene Aram:—"You would be at some loss to recognise now the truth of old Leland's description of that once stout and gallant bulwark of the North, when he ' numbrid 11 or 12 towres in the walles of the castel, and one very fayre beside in the second area.' In that castle the four knightly murderers of the haughty Becket (the Wolsey of his age) remained for a whole year, defying the weak justice of the times. There, too, the unfortunate Richard II.—the Stuart of the Plantagenets—passed some portion of his bitter imprisonment. And there, after the battle of Marston Moor, waved the banners of the Loyalists against the soldiers of Lilburne. It was made yet more touch-ingly memorable at that time, as you may have heard, by an instance of filial piety. The town was greatly straitened for want of provisions. A youth, whose father was in the garrison, was accustomed nightly to get into the deep dry moat, climb up the glacis, and put provisions through a hole, where the father 6tood ready to receive them. He was perceived at length; the soldiers fired on him. He was taken prisoner, and sentenced to be hanged in sight of the besieged, in order to strike terror into those who might be similarly disposed to render assistance to the garrison. Fortunately, however, this disgrace was spared the memory of Lilburne and the republican arms. With great difficulty, a certain lady obtained his respite, and after the conquest of the place and the departure of the troops, the adventurous son was released.knare8bobough.
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" The castle then, once the residence of John of Gaunt, was dismantled and destroyed. Many of the houses we shall pass have been built from its massive ruins. It is singular, by the way, that it was twice captured by men of the name of Lilburn or Lillburne,—once in the reign of Edward II., once as I have related. On looking over historical records we are surprised to find how often certain names have been fatal to certain spots ; and this reminds me, by the way, that we boast the origin of the English sybil, the venerable mother Shipton. The wild rock, at whose foot she is said to have been born, is worthy of the tradition." *
The municipal history of Knaresborough presents no points of sufficient importance to call for notice here. Neither would the tourist be interested by a detailed account of the different changes of ownership of the castle and manor. The castle was dismantled and rendered untenable in 1646, by order of the Parliament. The Marquis of Clanricarde is the present owner.
There are manufactories of linen and cotton in this town, but they are not extensive. The corn market, however, is one of the largest in the county. The population of Knaresborough in 1871 was 5205 (shewing a decrease of 197 since last census), and the number of inhabited houses, 1271. The 766 registered electors of this borough are represented in Parliament by one member.
Knaresborough was the birthplace of John Metcalf, commonly called " Blind Jack of Knaresborough." This extraordinary man was born in 1717, and lost his sight when only four years old. His blindness seems to have been scarcely any bar to his energy and enterprise. He commenced business on his own account as common carrier between Knaresborough and York, and often acted as guide in intricate roads over the forest during the night, or when the paths were hidden by the snow. He was eagerly fond of the chase, and could follow the hounds, on foot or on horseback, as well as most of those who joined in that sport. Still more strange than this, he contracted for, and constructed, roads, bridges, and houses—an employment which he followed for forty years. He died near Spofforth, in 1810, aged 93. A 6mall publication containing an account of his life may be obtained from any of the booksellers in the town.
The Church, which is dedicated to St John the Baptist, is
* Eugene Aram, booh iv. chap. ~10.224
knaresborough castle.
the most prominent building in the town. It consists of a nave, chancel, north aisle, and tower, surmounted by a tall wooden spire, and its architecture belongs to different periods. In 1318 this church, as well as a large portion of the town, was burned by the Scots. The tower is founded on four large clustered pillars, from which rise four very beautiful arches. In the interior are several ancient and interesting monuments to members of the Slingsby family. The church underwent important repairs and alterations in the year 1861.
The new Church of the Trinity is a handsome and conspicuously placed building.
There are several Dissenting Chapels and a Grammar School.
The Castle may be visited after this brief survey of the town. The inconsiderable ruins of this fortress are situated on a commanding eminence above the river Nid and the town. It consists of several detached portions, not a few of which are mere shapeless masses of stone and lime. These remains are not unpicturesque, though the presence of a little ivy would improve their general effect. The area of the castle is nearly two acres and a half. It was flanked by eleven towers, the shapeless remains of some of which may yet be seen. The largest and most interesting part of the ruin is the principal tower, which is shewn by a person who has it in charge. This tower is supposed to have been built about the time of Edward III. Some writers claim for it a higher antiquity, regarding the base of the keep as Saxon, and the superstructure Norman, the work of Serlo de Burgh, already mentioned ; but the style of the arches in the dungeon is a sufficient refutation of any such theoiy. The Dungeon, the lowest part of the keep, is reached by a descent of twelve steps. Its walls are said to be six yards thick, and they are formed of hewn stone, like those of the rest of the castle. This dark and miserable prison is 23 feet long and 20 broad, and is arched with stone, the roof being strengthened by one round pillar, 9 feet in circumference. Above the dungeon the keep consists of three storeys. In the first is the Guard Room, 32 feet by 22, its vaulted roof supported by two massive pillars. There are two other apartments on this floor, one the ancient repository of court records, and the other the old prison foi debtors within the forest and liberties of Knaresborough, The second storey was called the King's Chamber, probably from its having been for some time the place of confinement of the uu-knaresborough-the dropping well.
225
fortunate Richard II. There were two apartments, the antechamber and the state-room, each about 16 feet square. The approach to these apartments was from the outer court, and was carefully defended by portcullis. Each room had a fire-place, that of the state-room being large and handsome. The stateroom was lighted by a magnificent window, 15 feet high and 10 broad, the rich tracery of which was destroyed in a thunderstorm in 1806. The third storey was of the same dimensions as the others, and we may suppose that it was divided somewhat in the same way as the one immediately below it. The keep terminated in a parapet and battlements, which must have commanded a most extensive prospect.
There are the remains of a Gateway, in the early English style, on the south-east side of the castle. There are also some small ruins of a Chapel, probably Norman, discovered in 1786. In the excavations which then took place, some fragments of stained glass, human bones, and a rude marble sculpture of the Virgin and Child, were discovered. The other remains of the castle are of no interest or importance. The castle bill commands pleasant views; one of them presenting a picturesque combination of the castellated bridge, the churches, and the town.
The Dropping Well. The banks of the Nid, in the neighbourhood of Knaresborough, besides affording charming walks, and presenting beautiful views, have several spots which will be visited with interest by the tourist. He will probably first proceed to view the celebrated Dropping Well (paying 6d. to the guardian of the spring). It is situated in the Long Walk, which is entered by a gate on the right, after crossing the bridge. The water of this spring is strongly impregnated with lime, which it deposits plentifully on bodies exposed to its influence. Articles thus "petrified" are sold on the spot to those who wish to carry away mementos of the place. The spring rises from the foot of a limestone rock, about 40 yards from the river, and, on reaching the rock from which it falls, spreads itself over its top, and trickles down in many little rills. This rock is beautifully clothed with foliage and flowers. The spring gives out about 20 gallons in a minute. It was at the foot of this rock that, according to tradition, Mother Shipton, the Yorkshire sibyl, was bora. The Long Walk possesses many features of interest, to which our limits will not allow us to refer.
St. Robert's Chapel.—Recrossing the Low Bridge, and Q226
knaresborough-st. robert's cave.
turning to his right, the tourist will arrive at St. Robert's Chapel. This curious monument of piety is hollowed out of the solid, rock, and is ten feet six inches long, nine feet wide, and seven feet six inches high. On one side of the entrance is the uncouth figure of a knight-templar, cut in the rock, as if to guard the cell against intruders. The roof and altar are neatly adorned in Gothic style. The niches have long been destitute of images. This chapel is said to have been executed by St. Robert of Knaresborough. An account of this remarkable man has been given by Drake and other writers. He was born at York, of which his father was twice mayor. From infancy he was inclined to prayer and contemplation; and on reaching maturity he devoted himself to a monastic life. Soon he became famous for his austerity and Banctity; and the lord of the forest, who at first persecuted him as a hypocrite, was induced by a frightful vision to make peace with the holy man, and become his patron. He died at an advanced age, and was buried in his own chapel of the Holy Cross. His grave, hewn out of the rock, is still to be seen. Numerous and wonderful miracles were performed by him ; and after his death, Matthew Paris informs us, a medicinal oil flowed from his tomb.
Above St. Robert's Chapel is a Hermitage made of petrifactions and other curiosities. Still higher is a house called Fort Montague, an ornamental structure laboriously formed out of the rock by a poor weaver and his son, who might have devoted the sixteen years which they took to complete it to some more useful purpose. Near the chapel are several excavations in the rock, the chief of which is called the Bock Home, and is worthy of a visit.* The site of the Priory is occupied by the Abbey House.
St. Robert's Cave is said to have been the saint's usual residence, but its great interest will always consist in its connection with the story of Eugene Aram. Sir E. Bulwer Lytton's tale has given this singular man an immortality, which, probably, he did not deserve. There is, perhaps, no case in the whole range of fiction in which the powers of genius have invested a criminal with such a thrilling interest, and enlisted for him such feelings of sympathy and admiration. The words which the curate of Knaresborough utters respecting Eugene Arm in the novel seem almost to have
* These excavations are supposed to be the most ancient habitations in England, oiid have, doubtless, been the retreat of the lawless banditti that at one time infested Knaresborough Forest.knabesborough-eugene ah am.
227
been Sir Edward's own conception regarding him (at all events they are that of multitudes of his readers):—" Strange, musing, solitary, from a hoy: but what accomplishment of learning he had reached! Never did I see one whom nature so emphatically marked to be great." Yet an examination of the actual facts of the case makes it evident that, though undoubtedly a man of extraordinary attainments, the original Eugene Aram can lay claim to few of the excellences of the hero of the novel. Eugene Aram and John Houseman having, in company with their victim, Daniel Clark, defrauded several of the inhabitants of Knares-borough of plate and other goods to a large amount, had met in St. [Robert's Cave to consult regarding the disposal of their booty ; when Aram and Houseman, wishing to share the whole of the stolen property between themselves, murdered their wretched accomplice, and buried him in the cave. This was in 1745. On Clark's disappearance, it was generally thought that he had absconded, and, though there were some vague suspicions of foul play, little investigation was made regarding the affair. Shortly after the murder, Eugene Aram went to Norfolk, where he had lived for thirteen years, when the murder was discovered in a remarkable manner. A labourer digging in a quarry having discovered a human skeleton, it was supposed by some of the people of Knaresborough to be that of Clark, whose mysterious disappearance was still remembered. An inquest was held, and Houseman, who had brought suspicion on himself by thoughtlessly taking hold of one of the bones, and saying that it was no more Daniel Clark's than it was his, at length confessed his guilt, and directed the officers of justice to St. Robert's Cave, as the place where the body was actually deposited. Eugene Aram was apprehended at Lynn, in Norfolk, where he was usher in a school. Houseman was admitted as king's evidence, and Aram was convicted and executed at York. " Equal to either fortune," as he himself declared, Eugene Aram was his own counsel, and delivered a defence wonderful both for ability and erudition. He tried to prevent his execution by suicide, and had nearly succeeded, being almost insensible from the loss of blood when brought to the scaffold. He was well acquainted with Latin, Greek, Hebrew, Celtic, and other languages; and his knowledge of mathematics, heraldry, and antiquities was very extensive. He was born at Ramsgill, about 18 miles from Knaresborough, in the year 1704, and was executed at York in 1759.228
leedft.
The reader may recollect Hood's " Dream of Eugene Aram," concluding with the stanza—
" So wills the fierce avenging sprite, Till blood for blood atones I Ay, though he's buried in a cave,
And trodden down with stones,— And years have rotted off his flesh, The world shall Bee his bones I"
The Knarebborough Spa.—This spring is at Starbeck, between Harrogate and Knaresborough. The establishment is supplied with baths, waiting-rooms, and every accessory for the comfort and convenience of visitors. The following is Professor Hoffmann's analysis of the contents of a gallon of the water :—
Solid Contents.	grs.	Gaseous Contents.	c. in.
Salphata of lime	.870	Carbonic acid	9.26
Carbonate of lime .	. 6.960	Carbonetted hydrogen	5.15
Fluoride of calcium	faint trace	Sulphuretted hydrogen	trace
Carbonate of magnesia .	5.390	Nitrogen	4.21
Carbonate of potash	12.207		
Chloride of sodium	121.798		
Bromide of sodium	trace		
Iodide of sodium .	trace		
Sulphide of sodium	1.711		
Carbonate of soda	5.133		
Carbonate of manganese	trace		
Ammonia	trace		
Carbonate of iron	trace		
Silica	1.763		
Organic matter	. 1.740		
	157.562		18.62
For an account of places of interest in this neighbourhood, see the Vicinity of Harrogate.
Lastingham.—See the Vicinity of Pickering.
LEEDS.
Hotels.—The Queen, The Great Northern, White Horse, Saracen's Head, Griffin,
Bull and Mouth, Royal, Victoria, Wheatsheaf, Andrew's Temperance. From York, 25f miles ; Hull, 61; Bradford, 9; Manchester,42; London, 186J.
Leeds, the largest and most flourishing town in Yorkshire, and the fifth in England in point of population and commercial activity, is situated on the Aire, in the north-east corner of the Clothing District, of which it is the capital The conjectures ofAt CHLaf2far Cantt£Ty
LEEDS
Soal* ofXMU,.
J. 3aTTholcme*) Jj&TC
iuLbnrgh,LEEDS-GENERAL HISTOKY.
229
antiquarians as to the origin of its name are very vague and unsatisfactory ; but, however that point may be settled, there can be no doubt that the town is of great antiquity. In 655, a bloody battle was fought in this neighbourhood, in which Penda, King of Mercia, was slain, and most of his army perished. A grant of land here was given by William the Conqueror to Ilbert de Lacy, a powerful noble, who also possessed the barony of Pontefract. A castle built here, either by De Lacy or by one of his dependants, makes some figure in history—having been besieged by King Stephen in 1139, and been for a brief period, in 1399, the prison of the unfortunate Richard II., but no vestiges of it now remain. Leeds pronounced for the Parliament in the troubles of the time of Charles I., and was the scene of one or two struggles between the opposing parties. During the great plague of 1665 this town suffered dreadfully; one-fifth of the entire population perished. There aTe no remarkable events in its subsequent history, which is a record of steady progress in improvement and material prosperity. In the occasional periods of commercial depression with which, like the rest of the country, it has been visited, Leeds has never been reduced to so much distress as many other great manufacturing towns. The cause of this is to be found partly in the great variety of its manufactures —its prosperity thus depending upon no single manufacture or branch of trade, and partly on the high moral tone of the population, who are characterised by activity of mind and energy of action, without undue speculation. The late Mr. Baines used to 6ay that there was no audience before whom he would more readily argue any public question than a Leeds one. It is almost superfluous to add that Leeds, like all other great manufacturing towns, has uniformly exerted its influence in behalf of the leading measures of political progress in recent times. The history of the town records no popular tumults.
Leeds, or its immediate neighbourhood, has been the birthplace of many eminent men. David Hartley, author of " Observations on Man," was born at Armley, in this parish, in 1705, and died in 1757. "Rp.nja.miTi Wilson, the painter, was born here about 1720. Joseph Milner, the church historian, was born here in 1744, and died 1797. His brother Isaac was born here in 1751, and died 1820. (Originally a weaver, he became dean of Carlisle, and achieved some fame as a natural philosopher.) John Smeaton, the celebrated engineer, builder of Eddystone Light-230
LEEDS-EMINENT MEN.
house, was "born in this neighbourhood in 1724, and died in 1792 Joseph Priestley, more noted as an experimental philosopher than a divine, was born at Birstall, seven miles distant, in 1733. He officiated for several years as minister of a Unitarian chapel in Leeds, and founded a library, now one of the most extensive in the north of England. He died in 1804. Less famous than the preceding, but still worthy of mention, are the following natives of Leeds:—Richard Baron, a political writer, died 1768 ; John Bergenhout, physician and author, born 1730, died 1791; Newcome Cappe, Socinian author, 1732-1800; Samuel Clap-ham, author, bom 1755 ; Francis Fawkes, poet and miscellaneous writer, 1731-1777; William Lodge, distinguished engraver, 1649-1689; and John Scott, D.D. (" Anti-Sejanus"), author, 1733-1814.
Edward Baines, " the Franklin of Leeds," though not a native of the town with the history of which, from the beginning of the present century to his retirement from public life in 1841, his name is intimately associated, merits an honoured place in the list of its eminent men. He was born near Preston in 1774. In 1801, he became proprietor of the Leeds Mercury, in the office of which he had been employed as an apprentice not many years before. In his hands the Mercury soon became one of the most influential journals in the kingdom, and contributed powerfully to the discussion and settlement of the great public questions of the time.* Mr. Baines was elected M.P. for Leeds in 1834, and was returned for the same borough the two succeeding Parliaments. He retired from the representation in 1841, and died in 1848. He was the author of several elaborate works, the chief of which are " The History of the County Palatine of Lancaster," and a " History of the Reign of George HI.," both of them in four vols., 4to. Edward Baines, Esq., his son, one of the present members of Parliament for Leeds, was born here in 1806. He is the author of a " History of the Cotton Manufacture," and a life of his father.
The population of the borough of Leeds, in the year 1871 was 259,201 ; and the number of inhabited houses was 55,943. This shews an increase since the previous census of 52,036 per.
* The Leeds Mercury became a daily paper in 1861. It is conducted with all its old vigour and success by members of Mr. Baines's family. Three other newspapers are published in Leeds. The Yorkshire Post and Leeds Intelligencer is an old and excellently conducted journal of conservative politics. The Times and Express both advocate " advanced-liberal" opinions.leeds-manufactures-the town hall.	231
sons, and 11,292 houses.* The growth of Leeds since the beginning of the present century has been enormous. In 1801, the population of the borough was 53,162 ; in 1821 it was 83,746 ; and in 1841 it was 152,313. The borough is represented in Parliament by three members.
Leeds has probably more varieties of trade and manufacture than any town in England. The woollen cloth manufacture is carried on very extensively in the town and neighbourhood. In 1855 there were within the borough 102 works canying on the different processes of this manufacture, and employing 10,350 persons. Goods to the value of from £6,000,000 to £7,000,000 are annually turned out of the Leeds warehouses. Flax spinning and weaving employ nearly 12,000 hands. The factories turn out more work than any town in the kingdom with the exception of Belfast. Worsted and silk each give employment to upwards of 1500 persons. In the making of machinery, locomotive and stationary engines, tools, etc., about 8000 persons are employed. The various processes of the leather manufacture are earned on here in some of the largest tanneries in the kingdom. Glass holds an important place among the manufactures, and the tobacco sent forth from nine large factories pays about £400,000 of duty annually. Many other branches of trade and manufacture contribute to the support of the population of this great town ; but our space does not admit of further details on these points. It may be added here, that in the Leeds district there are 83 collieries, and that the produce of them in 1860 was 2,459,500 tons.
The market days are Tuesday and Saturday. The cattle and sheep fairs are among the largest in the north of England ; and the leather market is the largest out of London.
The town has recently undergone great improvement "by the widening and rebuilding of Boar Lane and West Bar—the principal line of access from the Wellington Station. The aspect of the streets and shops sufficiently testifies to its immense commercial activity and prosperity. There are many public buildings well deserving of examination.
The Town-Hall, in Park Lane, not far from the railway stations, deserves to be noticed first, as by far the most imposing municipal building in Yorkshire. Alike in site, style, proportions, and internal arrangements, this edifice is an admirable
* The population in 1S81 was estimated at 326,158.232
LEEDS—THE NEW INFIRMARY.
example of what the representative public building of a great and wealthy commercial community ought to be. It is in the Roman Corinthian style, after the designs of Mr. Brodrick of Leeds, and forms a lofty rectangular pile of 250 feet by 200. The foundation stone was laid in 1853, and the building was opened by her Majesty in 1858. It stands on an elevated platform, and is surrounded by Corinthian columns and pilasters, supporting an entablature and attic, rising altogether to about 65 feet in height. The roof of the large hall, in the centre of the building, however, rises to a height of 92 feet. The tower is 225 feet high, exclusive of the vane. The south and principal facade has a deeply recessed portico of ten coin inns, and is approached by a flight of twenty-five steps, 135 feet in length, with pedestals for sculpture.
The main entrance is on the south side, having in the open Bpace in front of it a bronze statue of the Duke of "Wellington. In the marble vestibule through which this entrance leads, stands a fine statue of the Queen, presented by the late Sir Peter Fairbairn. The Victoria Hall, in the centre of the building, is a magnificent room, 161 feet long, 72 wide, and 75 high. The decorations of this hall are in the best taste. The ceiling is arched, and divided into panels; the side walls are indented by five bays with coupled Corinthian columns ; and at the north end, which is circular, there is a raised orchestra, with a fine organ, which cost about <£5000. In one of the recesses of the hall stands a statue of the late Edward Baines, Esq.; and in another, that of the late Robert Hall, Esq. The colour decorations of this noble hall, and of the vestibule, are of a rich but chaste character, and are said to have cost £1600.
There is not space to notice in detail the various apartments in this building. It contains law courts, a police court, corporation and borough offices, etc. The mayor's room is a handsome apartment, containing, among other objects of interest, a portrait of Charles James Fox by Henry Raeburn. On the landing of the stairs by which the visitor ascends to this room there are several good paintings—" Retribution," by Armitage ; " Milton 6nd his Daughters ;" and a Battle-piece.
The total coast of the Town Hall was about £120,000.
The New Infirmary is situated about 200 yards to the north-west of the Town Hall It has been erected from the design of Mr. G. G. Scott, R.A., at a coast of about £100,000,leeds—the new infirm art.
233
raised by subscription, and is probably one of the finest and most complete structures of its kind in Europe. A careful inspection w&s made of the most celebrated hospitals in England and on the Continent before it was designed, and it is believed, therefore, to combine the most improved arrangements with the best adaptation of resources which it is possible to obtain. The style is Tudor, and the principle adopted is known as the "Pavilion." The main front is to the south, and consists of a central gate-house, with a pavilion or wing on each side, with curtains between. There has been no attempt to obtain an imposing appearance, the building being kept as open as possible for ventilation, but the general effect is very pleasing, and there is a chasteness and harmony in the style which gratifies the eye and satisfies the most critical judgment. The materal is pressed brick, the front being richly ornamented. There are five pavilions running from south to north, containing two wards each, and accommodation is provided for 300 patients. There is a handsome chapel on the east side. The foundation-stone was laid by Mr. James Kitson in March 1864, and the building was formally opened on the 19th of May 1868, with a magnificent exhibition of art, ancient and modern—the Prince of Wales attending at the inaugural ceremony by the desire of the Queen. The building is a model for the excellence of its sanitary arrangements.
The Medical School, which may be said to be associated if not absolutely connected with the Infirmary, is situated in Park Street, about 50 yards' distance, where a new building has been erected for it from designs by Mr. Corson. It holds a high place as an extra-academical school, though, in the recent deaths of Mr. Samuel Smith and Mr. T. P. Teale, it has lost two of its most distinguished teachers. There are sessional courses of lectures on all branches of medical science.
A bronze statue to the memory of Sir Peter Fairbairn, by Noble, was, in May 1868, erected by public subscription at the east corner of Woodhouee Square, a short distance from the Infirmary.
The Parish Church, dedicated to St. Peter, stands at the bottom of Kirkgate, in the east end of the town. It occupies the site of a building of the time of Edward III., which was taken234
leeds—st. peter's church.
down in 1838, and is regarded as one of tlie best modern specimens of the later Decorated style of architecture. The cost of its erection, which amounted to £40,000, was defrayed by voluntary contribution ; and the design is by R. D. Chantrell, Esq. It consists of nave, aisles, transepts, chancel, and ante-chapels, with a tower at the end of the north transept, and contains a fine alabaster reredos. The length of the church is 180 feet 7 inches, and its width 86 feet. The tower is 139 feet high, and has a fine peal of bells.
The interior fittings and decorations of the church display much taste and beauty. The main entrance is by the door in the north transept, under the tower. Here a sort of additional north aisle forms ante-chapels on the right and left, containing some fine monuments. . The chief of these are:—to Captains Walker and Beckett, natives of Leeds, who fell at Talavera, in 1809, representing Victory seated on a cannon, weeping over the heroes, with appropriate emblematical devices—a beautiful work by Flaxman ; to Christoper Beckett, Esq., banker in Leeds —a Gothic arched recess of Caen stone, an elaborate and tasteful specimen of the style of the early part of the fifteenth century ; to Eo^er Holt Leigh, Esq., etc.
The chancel is seven steps above the floor of the nave, and has a fine altar screen of stone. Behind the altar is a good painting, representing the Agony in the Garden. The east window is filled with rich stained glass, representing the Crucifixion, the Virgin Mary, St. John, St. Matthew, St Peter, etc. The other windows of the chancel are also filled with stained glass.
A richly carved oak screen separates the south transept (in which the organ is placed) from the nave. The pulpit is also elaborately carved. The great west window has the arms of the bishop of the diocese, the vicar of the parish, and the patrons of the' living, in stained glass. The church contains 3000 sittings, of which 1800 are free. The register dates from 1572.
There are upwards of twenty other churches in Leeds, but they are not generally of much interest to the tourist. We mention those which are most deserving of notice.
St John's Church, in St. John's Street, built in 1634, ha* been recently restored to its original style and beauty, and possesses an interesting carved oak screen, and an ancient roof, with richly scrolled panels. It has a monument in black marbleleeds-churches and chapels.
235
to the memory of John Harrison, " the wonder of his own, and pattern of succeeding ages," who enlarged the Free School of Leeds, founded an hospital, and did other beneficent actions.
Holy Trinity Church, in Boar Lane, an edifice in the "Roman-Doric" style of architecture, erected in 1727, consists of nave, chancel, aisles, and tower. The chancel is richly ornamented, and the massive oak roof is supported by columns with composite capitals. It has several good memorial windows in stained glass.
St. George's, in Mount Pleasant, occupies a good site. It has an altar-piece by C. W. Cope, RJL, representing " all nations looking unto Christ," and a fine organ.
St. John the Evangelist's, in Little Holbeck, is a beautiful building in the Early English style, built and endowed in ,1850 by Messrs. Marshall, the great flax spinners and weavers. This church is from a design by Mr. Scott of London, and is, externally and internally alike, highly deserving of a careful inspection.
St. Saviour's, on Cavalier Hill, East Street, consecrated in 1845, is also well deserving of notice. It is in the Decorated style, and consists of nave, aisles, chancel, transepts, and spire. Ite interior is a very elaborate reproduction of the features of ancient churches of the Decorated period, including three aedilia, a piscina, etc. The windows contain beautiful specimens of stained glass.
Dissenting Chapels. Dissent is strong in Leeds ; and some of the places of worship erected by several of the denominations display a good deal of taste. Among those deserving of mention are the Wesleyan Chapel in Brunswick Street, the East Parade Independent Chapel, the Roman Catholic Church of the Immaculate Conception, and Mill Hill Unitarian Chapel.
Of public buildings, and institutions of an educational, scientific, or benevolent description, the number is large, and it is yearly increasing. Our space admits of only the briefest notice of the chief of them.
The New Grammar School, St. John's Hill, near "Wood-house Moor was erected in 1859, at a cost of £11,000, defrayed chiefly by public subscription. The 6tyle adopted is the Early Decorated, and the plan is by Edward Barry, Esq., a son of Sir Charles Barry. It is a very elegant building, and has room for 400 scholars. This school is well endowed. It was founded in 1552 by Sir William Sheafield, and received additional benefac-236
leeds—public buildings.
tions at subsequent periods. The school was originally situated in North. Street, but it was judged advisable to remove it to the present more airy and healthy site. This school is free to all boys natives of the borough.
The Industrial School, Burmantofts, erected in 1848, at a cost of £16,000, is a handsome building in the Elizabethan 6tyle, and occupies a commanding site, with a frontage of 276 feet.
Other schools cannot be particularized. There are about 400 day schools, of all kinds, in Leeds. Of these, upwards of 50 are supported by religious denominations, and 9 are endowed. There are 126 Sunday schools, attended, on an average, by 35,000 scholars.
The Leeds School of Medicine holds a high place as an extra-academical schooL There are courses of lectures delivered during the winter and summer sessions on all the branches of medical science. The Infirmary is an excellently conducted institution- The plain brick building has been replaced by a more spacious and handsome structure. It may be mentioned here that there are numerous Charities.
Scientific and Literary Institutions are numerous. The Philosophical and Literary Society is an important institution. The hall of this Society is in Bond Street. It was erected in 1819, and has recently been much enlarged. The building, whic^. is an elegant one, contains a large lecture room, library, museum, and other apartments. The Young Men's Christian Institute, the Church Institute, the Leeds Library (founded in 1768, and containing one of the most valuable collections of books in the north of England), the Mechanics' Institute, etc., are all important and prosperous institutions.
The-Post Office, in Park Bow, is situated a few yards from the Wellington Station. Fronting the building is a bronze statue of Sir Robert Peel on a granite pedestal.
There are two theatres. The Grand in North Briggate, and the Boyal in Land's Lane, approached from Briggate. A few yards north of the latter there is a handsome Arcade, leading from Briggate to Land's Lane. It contains principally 44 fancy " shops.
The Commercial Buildings,'at the southern end of Park Row, is a large structure in the Grecian style, containing a public news-room, the district Bankruptcy Courts, and numerous other apartments.
The Cloth Halls form a very intesting spectacle onleeds-the cloth halls and factories.	237
market days. The Coloured or Mixed Cloth Hall is near the Commercial Buildings, in the busiest part of Leeds. It is a quadrangular brick building, 380 feet long by 200 broad, and contains nearly 2000 stalls, arranged in six streets, each of which has its own distinctive name. Each stall is about two feet in width, and is marked with the name of its occupant. The tourist who may be in Leeds on either of the market days would do well to pay a visit to the Cloth Hall; for besides the various fabrics here sold, the mode of traffic and the broad dialect of many of the clothiers and buyers will be found to be novel and interesting. The cloth sold here has been dyed, and undergone all the operations except that of finishing. The hall is kept open an hour and a quarter. During that brief space of time an immense amount of business is done when trade is in a normal and healthy state, although the number of buyers may often be insignificantly small compared with that of the sellers. The White Cloth Hall, situated near the Assembly Rooms, is similar in style and arrangement to the hall just noticed. It ie 300 feet long, and contains about 1200 stands in five streets. It opens as soon as the Coloured Cloth Hall closes, for the sale of cloth in an undyed state.
Other buildings connected with commerce are, the Central Market in Duncan Street, the Kirkgate Market, and the Corn Exchange.
The principal Factories deserve a word of notice. Messrs. Marshall!& New Flax MiU, situated in Holbeck, is a very remarkable building. It is of only one storey, and consists of an immense room, 400 feet long, 216 broad, and 20 high. The main front of the building resembles that of an Egyptian temple, and the chimney is of the same character. The roof is supported by fifty pillars, from which it rises in low groined arches or domes. In the centre of each of these domes is a conical skylight. Upwards of a thousand hands are employed in this room, which has an area of two acres, and is perhaps the .largest in the world. The Old Mill has no features of novelty. In the whole works 2500 persons are constantly employed. Messrs. Gotfs Cloth Mill is the largest in Leeds, and one of the largest in the kingdom. AH the processes of the woollen cloth manufacture are carried on in it, and machinery and steam are made to perform almost every operation, even to the packing of the'bales. The Silk Mills of Messrs. Holdforth, at Bank Low Mills and Cookridge,238
vicinity op leeds'—adel.
employ from 1300 to 1500 hands, and have a high reputation at home and abroad. The Airedale Foundry (Messrs. Kitson and Co.), for the manufacture of locomotive and stationary engines, steam ploughs, etc.; and the Wellington Foundry (Messrs Fair-bairn and Co.), for the manufacture of machinery for spinning flax, hemp, and silk, are both establishments of great extent.
Roundhay Park, nearly 4 miles north-east of the town, and recently purchased and made public by the Corporation, is a favourite resort of the Leeds people. It contains nearly 800 acres of wood, water, and hill. Omnibuses run to and from.
VICINITY OF LEEDS.
There are within easy reach of Leeds numerous places of antiquarian or commercial interest. Many of these, however, have received separate and lengthened notices in other parts of this work. Kirkstall Abbey, too, the most attractive spot in the neighbourhood, is fairly entitled to a separate description.
Adel, a hamlet miles distant by the Otley road (which is left, for a branch to the right, about 4 miles from Leeds), is a place of very great interest to the antiquarian. It can be most easily reached from the Horsforth station, whence it is distant 2 miles. This is a place of great antiquity. Whitaker conjectures that its name (Adhill in the Liber Regis) is derived from Ada, its first Saxon possessor; but, however this may be, the quiet little hamlet was an important place before the Saxons set foot in England—a Roman camp and vestiges of a Roman town still visible in its neighbourhood sufficiently establishing the fact. Its church, although not mentioned in Domesday, testifies to its importance in Norman times.
The Church is a perfect gem, and cannot fail to delight the lover of ancient ecclesiastical architecture. Thoresby gravely conjectures that it was originally a Roman temple ; but since his day the chronology of architectural styles has been reduced to accurate and scientific system, and the ecclesiologist can have no difficulty in assigning this fine old church to a period very little later than the Conquest. The architectural details axe all good and in admirable preservation ; and lew churches in the county better deserve, or will better repay, a careful examination.
The fabric consists of nave and choir, without aisles. A small bell turret above the west gable is modern, but .in perfect harmony with the rest of the building ; and in this wall two small win-VICINITY OF LEEDS-ADEL.
239
dows have been restored in similarly excellent taste. Qn the south side of the nave there is a most beautiful doorway in the best style of Norman architecture. It embraces a series of four arches. The inner one is adorned to the base of the column from which it springs (which is square, with the edge rounded off) with beak heads ; the next (also square) is similarly ornamented with zig-zags, with little round balls in the inner angles ; the ne?t is a plain double arch, springing from a plain column ; and the outermost is an elaborate and beautiful zig-zag arch springing from a plain circular column. The capitals of the columns are sculptured with animals and other devices. The pediment above the doorway is surmounted by an Agnus Dei, beneath which are five compartments—the centre one containing a throned figure, those to the right and left a winged man, a winged ox, an eagle, and a winged lion—in allusion, as supposed, to Rev. iv. 7, and Ezek. i. 10.
There ia also a small and plain circular doorway in the south wall of the chanceL The north wall of the nave is pierced with four narrpw, round-headed windows. The south wall has only one window of the same dimensions, the rest having given way to two square-headed windows of three round lights each. The north wall of the chancel is pierced by two round-headed slits like those of the nave ; and the south wall has two of these slits and a larger window of two lights. The east window is of three lights in the same style. Along the upper part of the walls of both nave and chancel runs a zig-zag line of corbels with grotesque human heads, some of them double at the points. These are also to be noticed in the west gable in three series—five, three, and one. The vestry is an eyesore.
The interior is very interesting. Between the nave and chancel there is an exceedingly beautiful Norman arch, springing from three columns, the ornamentation of which deserves careful examination. The east window has the royal arms in stained glass, extending across the three lights, and under them three coats of arms of families connected with the district. The other windows of the chancel are filled with modern stained glass. Behind the altar is a painting of the Agony in the Garden ; on the left, one of the Crucifixion; and on the right, one of the Ascension. On the north side of the chancel, within the rails, there is a handsome monument to Henry Arthington, " armiger," dated 1681. In the vestry there is a curious old register-chest. The pews and galleries of this church are rather tasteless.240 vicinity op leeds—armley—headingley, etc.
There is a Roman Station on the slope of the hill, a little to the north of the village. Its name has perished ; but, from the relics found, the settlement must have been one of some importance.
The neighbourhood of Adel is pleasing. The tourist may proceed, either by the road over Black Hill, or by the cross road which joins the Leeds and Ripon highway at Alwoodley gates, to Harewood (see the "Vicinity of Harrogate). The former road is preferable for the pedestrian. The distance is about five miles.
Armley Village, two miles west from Leeds, contains a neat modern chuch, in the interior of which there are two fine monuments by Joseph Gott, Esq., of Rome. Armley House, in the neighbourhood, contains some good paintings.
Headengley, a pleasant suburb of Leeds, reached by tramway, is two miles to the north-west. Many handsome villas have been erected here, and the number is yearly increasing. The modern church is handsome, and the Wesleyan chapel very neat.
Whitkirk, 4 miles east from Leeds, £ mile south of Cross-gates station on the Selby railway, is an interesting village. The Church, situated on an eminence, is a spacious building of the time of Henry VII. It contains a fine old altar-tomb to the memory of Robert Scargill and his wife, with their recumbent figures ; a splendid monument bearing the reclining figure of Edward, Viscount Irwine ; and a monument by Nollekens to the memory of Lord and Lady Irwine. A mural inscription commemorates John Smeaton, the builder of Eddystone lighthouse.
In the neighbourhood of this village is Temple Newsam, a very handsome mansion, surrounded by beautiful grounds. It occupies the site of an ancient establishment of the Knights Templars, which existed here as far back as 1181, and is commemorated in Ivanhoe under the name of Templestowe. On the suppression of their order in 1311, it was given by Edward HI. to Sir John D'Arcy, one of whose heirs, Thomas, Lord D'Arcy, was beheaded in 1544 for his share in the " Pilgrimage of Grace" insurrection, time of Henry YIH. Lord D'Arcy bestowed it on Matthew, Earl of Lennox, whose son, Lord Darnley, the husband of Mary Queen of Scots and father of James I., was born here. Subsequently it was purchased from the Duke of Lennox by Sir Arthur Ingram, who pulled down the old hall, built the present noble palace, and surrounded it by an extensive park and pleasure-grounds, which are now finely shaded by ancient patriarchal woods. The noble families of Lennox, Irwine, and Hertford,MALTON.
241
have resided at Temple Newsam. The picture-gallery is a magnificent apartment, 120 feet in length, containing a very choice collection of paintings, including works by Italian, Spanish, German, and Dutch masters. The Prince and Princess of Wales took up their residence here on the occasion of their visit to Leeds in 1868 to inaugurate the Art Treasures Exhibition.
MALTON.
Hoteia—The Talbot, The Crown, The Globe, and The George.
Distances.
Prom York, 21} miles; Scarborough, 21; Thirst, 30.
Malton, often called New Malton, to distinguish it from the neighbouring village of Old Malton, is situated on a gentle declivity overlooking the vale of Derwent. The elevated ground to the north and west commands views of the east Yorkshire Wolds and Moors, with their romantic valleys and heathy fells; the bold ridge of the Hambleton Hills rises in the background ; and the rich vale of Rye, studded with pleasant villages, lies in the middle distance. This is undoubtedly a place of high antiquity. There are good grounds for believing that it was an important settlement of the Brigantes, the earliest known inhabitants of Yorkshire. Indeed, the immediately surrounding district appears to have been in early times the most thickly peopled part of Yorkshire ; and, from the traces we have of early British dwellings and burial mounds, it would seem as if the population in those times had settlements pretty much in the line occupied by the ranges of villages at the present day. Some of the trackways that still exist in this neighbourhood, though used and improved by the Romans, may be assigned with tolerable certainty to the Brigantes. The Romans here, as elsewhere, whenever it suited their purpose, availed themselves of the work of the earlier inhabitants ; and Malton became a Roman camp and town. Antiquarians are not yet agreed as to the name which Malton bore under the Romans. Drake supposed it to be Camulodunvm; but this opinion is now abandoned, as there can be little doubt that the site of that colonia was at Colchester in Essex. There are better grounds for supposing Malton to be Derventio. There is just one difficulty in the way of this conclusion:—in the first iter of Antoninus the distance between Eboracum (York) and Derventio is vii millia passuum, whereas the real distance is more like xvii. If the latter number be read for the former, Malton fits well into the iter, the next
R242
MALTON-HISTORY AND COMMERCE.
station, Belgovitia, corresponding with Cawthorne (xiii. miles), and Prcetorium (xxv., or xxiii. in some copies) with Dunsley, near Whitby. Whether Derventio or not, however, Malton must have been a very important Roman station.
This was also a place of 6ome note in Saxon and Normaji times. King Edwin is said to have had a villa at Malton, and to have been here preserved from an assassin by his faithful Lilla; but all that is recorded on the point is, that the villa was upon the Derwent. After the Norman Conquest, the manor of Malton was conferred upon the family of De Yesci, who fortified the town and built a castle on the site of the Roman camp. In 1135, the Scots having gained possession of the castle, Thurstan, Archbishop of York, gathered an army and marched against them. He burned the town and invested the castle, which, however, he does not seem to have succeeded in reducing. The town was shortly afterwards rebuilt by Eustace Fitz-John, to whom the manor came through his mother, who was a De Yesci, and was thenceforward called New Malton. Eustace Fitz-John also founded a monastery, important remains of which still exist at Old Malton. A grandson of this Eustace was honoured with a visit from King John in 1213. It is unnecessary to trace the transmissions of this property. The date of the destruction of the original Norman castle cannot be distinctly ascertained ; but we find a new castellated mansion erected on its site, in the reign of James L, by Ralph, Lord Eures, or Evers. This mansion came to a ridiculous end. His lordship's two grand-daughters not being able to agree as to the division of the property, the house was pulled down, and its materials shared between them, in 1674, by the Sheriff of Yorkshire. The lodge and gateways still remain. They belong to Earl Fitzwilliam, who is lord of the manor and principal proprietor of the town*
At the census of 1871, Malton had a population of 8168, and 1699 inhabited houses. The increase in the population since 1861 is only 96 persons—a fact from which it may be inferred that the town has not been materially growing in manufactures and commerce. The formation of the railways, and the draining of the rivers Rye and Derwent, have done much to change the aspect of the place. The former has brought to an end its large trade by water with Hull; for, though the navigation is still open to the town, it is rarely that a sloop is seen. The latter, by destroying the mill weirs, necessitated the adoption of steam form alton—churches.
243
water power, and increased the number of smoky chimneys, without proportionately increasing the manufactures of the place. Malton, however, still retains its position as the trade centre of the wide agricultural district by which it is surrounded, and many mills are constantly at work preparing flour for the Scarborough, Tork, and other markets. The corn trade is the principal branch of commerce. Considerable numbers of persons are employed in breweries, flour-mills, manure and bone-crushing works, agricultural implement works, etc. Shipbuilding, once a somewhat important trade here, is now extinct, and an iron-foundry occupies the place of the building-yard. In the adjoining parish of Norton there are works for the manufacture of brick, tiles, and drain-pipes. Two weekly newspapers are published in Malton. The representation of Malton was reduced from two to one M.P. at last Reform Bill. The town is well built, but irregular in plan. The churches are the principal buildings. They were formerly chantry chapels to the Priory at Old Malton, and subsequently chapels-of-ease. In 1855 they were constituted separate parish churches by an order in council
St. Michael's Church ia a large building in the Norman style, with a tower at its west end. It is a structure of considerable antiquity, although the restorations and alterations, inside and outside, which it has lately undergone, give it the aspect of quite a recent erection, the chancel, indeed, being modern. The doorway is pointed, but the windows, and the arches between the nave and aisles, and the nave and chancel, are all circular. There is no tracery in the windows. The clerestory windows are adorned externally with zig-zag mouldings which run the whole length of the upper part of the nave, as well as along the chancel on its south and east sides, the vestry being built against its north side. The chancel is lighted by six narrow windows, three of them occupying the place of an east window. These windows are filled with stained glass. They are all presentation windows ; and it is gratifying to find that three oi them are the gift of churchwardens. There is a fine old font at the west end of the church.
St. Leonard's Church is an uninteresting edifice, in no particular style of architecture. The oldest part of it is the tower, which has battlements and buttresses. The stone of which it ie built is very much worn through the action of the weather. Each244
malton-the lodge.
side of the tower has a round-headed window. It is surmounted by a wooden spire, slated, and terminating In an iron cross. In the repairs which were made in this church in 1856, three Norman arches with massive pillars were opened out in the north wall of the chancel, to which the space behind them (formerly a vestibule and part of the vestry) now forms an aisle. The chancel has two piscinae ; and in the south-west corner of the nave there is a Norman font.
There are in Malton several dissenting chapels, and a number of good schools. Other public buildings are the Town Hall, Assembly Rooms, Freemasons' Hall, Mechanics' Institute, etc.
The Crypt op a Hospital, connected with the Priory of Old Malton, still exists as the cellar of the Cross Keys Inn, in Wheelgate. The site and use of the building are indicated by the " 'Spital Street" adjoining. Of the foundation and dedication of this hospital history is silent, but from the style of the crypt it must be as old as the priory. The crypt is nearly square, and has a strongly gioined Norman roof, with grotesque bosses at the intersections, the ribs springing from massive cylindrical columns with sculptured capitals. The opening which now serves as a window exhibits evidences of having once been a doorway when the street was much below its present level. The antiquary will find this crypt worth a visit.*
The Lodge of the castle of Malton is on the east side of the town, on the right of the road leading to Old Malton. It is an interesting building, all the antique features of which are carefully preserved by Mr. Copperthwaite, a zealous and able antiquarian, whose residence it is. This gentleman's collection of antiquities comprises numerous valuable British and Roman relics discovered in the neighbourhood. In the hall there is a series of beautiful carvings in oak, the subjects being taken from the history of Jonah. Three gateways still remain in front of the lodge, two of them partially built up. In the field behind the
* There were two other hospitals served by the monks of Old Malton. One of these was at Broughton, a mile to the north of Malton, founded by Eustace Fitz-John. Of this building there are no remains; but its site is called 'Spital Hill. In the wood here grow the green hellebore and the soapwort, descendants, doubtless, of the garden flowers of the monks.
The other hospital was either on the island in the Derwent or on the Norton side of the river. It was founded in the time of Henry II., and dedicated to St Nicholas, by Roger de Flamville. Some remains, supposed to belong to it, were found during the excavations for the Scarborough railway.MjliaW W A. & C. Black. EaiJmalton, the roman der"\ entio.
245
lodge may be traced tlie site of the old castle, as well as many features of the Roman settlement, presently to be described.
Soman Malton. The subject of Roman Malton is a very inviting one, and has given rise to many discussions among antiquarians. First, as to its name, the preponderance of opinion (and, as we think, of argument) is for Derventio, although it can be urged in favour of Stamford Brig that its distance from York corresponds with that in the itinerary between Derventio and Eboracum. At Malton there is a well-marked Roman camp, in which, as well as in the town and surrounding districts, numerous relics of the Romans have been discovered; while at Stamford Brig there is no camp, nor any abundance of Roman remains. Besides, it is not likely that at such a place as Stamford Brig, only seven miles from Eboracum, the Romans would permanently settle a body of troops (called " Derventionenses " in the Notitia), who might as easily have been accommodated in the great central stronghold- It seems probable, therefore, that vii. should be read xviL in the first iter, and that Derventio was at Malton. Many things go to strengthen this position—among others, the number of Roman roads that converge to this station from different directions. These are no fewer than six in number, some of them very distinctly marked, and others requiring a good deal of skill to trace them. The most important of these roads is that called " Wade's Causeway," leading to Dunsley—probably the first iter of Antoninus. A vicinary way from Malton to Isurium, by Crayke and Easingwold, brought this settlement in connection with Watling Street, the great Roman highway which traversed the whole length of England. The other roads there is not space to indicate.
A better idea can be obtained of the Roman settlement here from the accompanying plan* than from any verbal description. There have been two camps, one on each side of the Derwent; and probably the Roman town has been also double. The principal part of the settlement, however, has been on the north side of the stream, where, besides the camp, which is very distinctly marked, antiquarians have indicated the site of a small Roman
* For this plan, as well as for the plan of Old Malton Priory on a subsequent page, the writer is indebted to Mr. C. Monkm&n of Malton. He has pleasure in acknowledging his obligations to this gentleman for much valuable information regarding the neighbouring district. From another gentleman of this neighbourhood, the Rev. R w. Elliot of Malton, the writer has received important assistance in connection with some other parts of this work.246
MALTON—ROMAN CAMP.
village which grew up under its protection. The ditch by which this village was surrounded (for, though close to the vallum of the camp, the colonists appear to have made assurance doubly sure by drawing a line of fortification round their settlement), and which is marked on the plan as enclosing " Roman Malton'' on three sides, the fourth being protected by the Derwent, the tourist will probably try in vain to trace ; though, should he have the guidance of any of the local antiquaries, he will be able to satisfy himself as to its position and extent.
The Roman Camp is in the field on the south front of the lodge (which is indeed built on the vallum), and in the " orchard field" adjoining on the east. It is a quadrangle measuring 1000 feet by 657, the height of its vallum being about 26 feet. At its south-east corner there is an enclosure 363 feet square, meant probably for allies. From the peculiar form of the Praetorian gate, this camp, like Cawthorne, is supposed to have been occupied by soldiers of the ninth legion. A road leaving the camp by this gate crossed the Derwent by a ford, which was protected by a small camp on the other side. Near the centre of the Malton camp may be traced in the greensward the foundations of Malton Castle, already mentioned.* In this camp, and in its vicinity, have been found many interesting and valuable relics of the Romans. Coins, urns, baths, inscriptions, etc., have from time to time been discovered ; and all serve to testify to the importance of this station. There is not space to refer in detail to the relics of the Romans which have been found here. A single inscription may be quoted, as an indication of the fact that here there was not only Roman military occupation, but also to some extent the skilled industry of Roman art. A sculptured stone discovered at Old Malton by Mr. Copperthwaite, and engraved in Wright's " Celt, Roman, and Saxon" (2d edit., p. 251), seems to be the sign of a goldsmith, named Servulus, and to invoke good fortune on the business he carried on here. The inscription, not very correct in its Latinity, is as follows :—
FELICITER SIT
GENIO LOCI
SERWLE' VTERE
* About SO or 40 yards of the old Norman mound, outside of which was tho ditch defending the town, may still be seen in the garden of Mr. J. Walker, in Oroengnte.malton-old malton priory.
247
FELIXTABERN AM AVREFI 3INAM.
Of the Roman streets leaving Malton in different directions, the traces have repeatedly, in the course of drainage and other works, been found several feet below the surface. Most of the modern streets, indeed, are believed to be upon the ancient Roman ones. In Norton, as well as in Malton, Roman relics of importance are being frequently discovered in the vicinity of the camp (now obliterated by being built upon), and the streets which branch off from it east and south. A fine cinerary urn was found here in April 1862*
Old Malton Priory is about a mile from New Malton, close upon the bank of the Derwent. The only remains of any consequence consist of part of the nave of the church now used as a parish church. It is stated that the first stone church in Northumbria was erected here ; but this is very doubtful. Old Malton, however, has the antiquity of Domesday, which makes mention of a church here. The priory, of which the present church is a remnant, was founded by Eustace Fitz-John, a.d. 1150, for canons of the order of St. Gilbert of Sempringham,+ and was dedicated to the Blessed Virgin. It was magnificently endowed
* A large and valuable collection of local antiquities and fossils, gathered during a long series of years by Mr. Geo. Pycock of Malton, has recently been purchased by a brother antiquary, Charles Rooke, Esq., M.D., of Scarborough, whose object is to found there a museum illustrative of the pre-Adamite and pre-historic periods in North and East Yorkshire.
t Gilbert de Sempringham was an English priest, who devoted himself to the institution of a monastic order, carrying out an idea of his own—the combination of the monastery and the convent. He took his name from the first of these communities which he set up. The ladies occupied one wing of the building, where they lived under a discipline like that of the Cistercian nuns; and the monks occupied the other, and conformed to Augustinian rules. Watton Abbey, near Driffield, was a house on this plan. Old Malton Priory, however, seems to have been only for regular canons. Gilbert de Sempringham died in 1189, at the advanced age of 106 years.248
MALTON'- —THE PRIORY OF OLD MALTOiV.
by the founder and his successors, whose grants were confirmed by charter in 1199, and again by Richard II. St. Gilbert himself is stated to have been buried here. With his latest breath he bequeathed the care of all his monasteries to Roger of Sempriiigham, Prior of Malton. To this Roger it is possible that the inscription (half inverted) upon the capital of one of the columns in the north wall of the church refers. Mr. Walbran of Ripon, with much probability, suggests Bolton as the reading, of the rebus (a barrel with an arrow through it).
Part of the inscription is concealed by the modern wall, enclosing the portion of the nave used as the parish church. The fact of half of the inscription being inverted, apparently intentionally, is very singular. We copy what of it is visible, for the benefit of the antiquarian :—
jond giu3So$> Orate p bono $ statu nut $ § ^
The original building shared the fate of its contemporaries at the Dissolution, and the remains are now ruinous in some parts, especially so in the tower. The original plan has included nave, chancel, transepts, side aisles, and chapels, the high altar having been close upon the brink of the Derwent, where indications of it were found on the recent drainage of the l iver. The architecture has been early Norman (with the introduction of later styles in the more recent parts of the buildings), of which good examples yet remain in the massive columns (clustered, angular, and round) and circular arches of the present church and tower. The original building had two fine towers at the west end, and a large central tower. The choir was taken clown in 1734, and the present east window was inserted, and extensive restorations made, in 1844. The gem of the building is the doorway of the west front, which is an exquisitely enriched Norman arch, springing from the capitals of seven columns on either side. Above this is a fine pointed window of five lights, now partially walled up. The base of the north-west tower remains, but the south-west tower, though ruinous, is yet perfect, and is used as a vestry and belfry. This tower has opened into the aisle by a fine pointed arch, now walled up. The interior of the church is particularly interesting to the ecclesiologist, on ac-MALTON—PLAN OF THE PRIORY.	249
E
PLAN OF OLD MALTON PHIOBY.
(The shaded parts indicate the existing remains of the Priory.) The Church.
1, 2, 3. High Altar, Chancel, and Chapels.
4.	Transepts.
5.	Great Central Tower.
8.	Aisles of Nave.
9.	Portion of the Nave now used as the Parish Church.
11.	The Western Towers.
The Monastic Buildings. <5. Dormitory, and other Apartments of the Monks. 7. Cloister Court.
10.	Kitchen.
12.	Refectory and Prior's Lodgings? (If the Priory was a complete example of
the peculiar order of Gilbert de Sempringham—which, however, it does not appear to have been—this side of the square would probably be occupied by the Nuns.)
13.	Crypt under "the Abbey." Perhaps the Chapter House was on this site.250
MALTON-THE PRIORY—EPITAPHS,
couiit of the fine early work which it contains. There is a good doorway, marking the termination of the south aisle, with a niche, probably meant for an image of the Virgin. One of the pillars in the north wall has a similar niche, the richly worked canopy of which is visible above the wooden skirting. The bases and part of the shafts of the two western clustered columns, which supported the large central tower, still remain. Beside them lie several large stone coffins, which have from time to time been exhumed from among the ruins. The central tower was taken down—it is believed, unnecessarily—in 1636. The monastic buildings were on the south of the church (see plan). They are as usual ranged round the quadrangular cloister court, one side of which is formed by the south wall of the church, and part of another by the south transept. The uses of the different parts of the buildings ranged round this court cannot be exactly ascertained. Possibly, the east and part of the south sides were occupied by the dormitories of the monks, over the vaulted cloisters. The rest of the square may be apportioned, according to the plan of similar establishments elsewhere, to the chapterhouse and prior's apartments, the common room, refectory, and kitchen. A crypt yet remains, and is used as a cellar to the modem residence called the Abbey, which was built out of the ruins of the church. Connected with the priory were the three hospitals already noticed (p. 244).
The churchyard contains a number of curious and interesting inscriptions, one or two of which are worth copying. One side of a tombstone has this quaint conceit:—
" This life is but a winter's day ; Some only to breakfast stay, Others stop to dine, and are full fed, The oldest but stop to go to bed."
The other side moralizes thus, in a fashion common in Yorkshire churchyards :—
" Uncertain are the days of natural man, Certain to die, but knows not when. Here is an instance set before ] our eyes, How soon the stoutest is cut down and dies; He rose in health, he was the same at noon, Before next sun did rise, his glass was run. O, gentle reader, notice well in time, The next grave that's opened may be thine."MALTON-NORTON.
251
The following epitaph is of rather a curious and unusual description :—
" Here lies the body of William Hope, who died March ye 2d, 1761, aged 63 years. He was Born in New MalTON, brought up a Smith, Married Frances Hero of this town, by whome he had fourteen children, viz., 6 Sons and 8 Daughters.
His Soul, I hope, in Heaven at Rest, Is Singing Praises with the Blest. The 5 Psalm to be Sung at his Funeral My Sledge and hammer lie reclined, My Bellows, too, have lost their'Wind, My Fire's extinct, my Forge Decay'd, And in the Dust my Vice is Laid, My Coal is Spent, my Iron's gone, My Nails a/re Drove, my Work is Done ; My Fire dry'd Corpse lies here at Rest, My Soul, Smoak-like, is Soaring to be Blest."
Adjoining the churchyard is the school-house of the Free Grammar School, founded by Archbishop Holgate, 1546. An inscription, now almost illegible, built into the end wall, requests the prayers of the reader " pro bonu statu" of Thorn. Norman, the first schoolmaster, whose wife lived with Archbishop Holgate, giving rise to much scandal.
The village of Old Malton consists mainly of one long street of houses, most of which are tenanted by farmers and labourers. It contains a national school and two dissenting chapels. There are extensive limeworks in the neighbourhood.
Norton may be regarded as virtually a part of New Malton, being separated from it only by the river. The principal building here is the Church, a tasteless structure, in the Grecian style, erected in 1815. It occupies the site of a monastic cell, belonging to Old Malton Priory. The principal feature of this edifice is its east window, which is of three lights, and is filled with fine stained glass. The central light, which has a figure of our Saviour, was presented by "W. I'Anson, Esq. ; that on the left, representing St. Paul, is the gift of Robert Searle, Esq., who for more than thirty years held the office of churchwarden here ; and that on the right, with the figure of St. Peter, was put in by subscription.
Norton is noted for the large training-stables of (the late) John Scott, W. I'Anson, and Charles Peck, which are in the immediate neighbourhood.vicinity of malton-amotherby.
VICINITY OF MALTON.
Nobthvtard :—Amotherby — Appleton-le-Street — Barton-le-Street — SlingEby Castle—Hovingham—Stonegrave—Nunnington. Southward :—Langton Wold— Burythorpe—Birdsall—North Grimston—Duggleby. Eastward :—Settrington — Thorpe Basset—Wintringham—Rillington. Westward :—Castle Howard—Kirk-ham Priory—Bulmer—Welburn—WhitwelL
The country round Malton is rich in scenes of interest. In whatever direction the tourist may bend his steps, he is sure to find places and objects deserving of his attention. The railways will be found of material assistance in the exploration of this district. We notice here only those places which can be most conveniently visited from Malton. Places at a greater distance will be found described elsewhere.
In the course of one excursion northward, the tourist may visit in succession Amotherby, Appleton, and Barton-le-Street, all having interesting Norman work in their churches ; Slingsby, with its ruined castle ; Hovingham, with its old church and new spaj and Stonegrave, where, though the fine old church with Norman work no longer invites the antiquarian (the greater part of it having been pulled down to make way for a new structure in the Perpendicular style), the scenery is sufficiently attractive. This excursion affords a succession of magnificent prospects of the north Yorkshire moorlands, with the great alluvial vale of Ryedale in the middle distance. The road is on the track of a Roman, and perhaps an early British one, and skirts the base of the Howardian hills. We take the places in the order in which they are reached from Malton.
Amotherby, 3 miles from Malton, has a Church, containing some old Norman work on its north side. In the chancel there are some sedilia, also of early Norman workmanship, and a piscina, with a " credence " by its side. At Great Bartigh, 3 miles distant, there is a very perfect Roman camp.*
* There are several British tumuli near Amotherby. In January 1862, one of these was opened by Mr. Geo. Pycock of Malton, who discovered in it two British cinerary urns. It was found, in the course of the excavation, that this tumulus had been previously opened ; and this led to the suggestion being thrown out, that, on the occasion of any tumulus being opened, a bottle containing particulars of the excavation should be deposited in it before the earth is filled in again, for the information of future explorers. This suggestion is a valuable one, and should bn systematically acted upon by antiquarians.
It may be mentioned here, that the researches of the antiquaries of Malton have been carried on lately with a good deal of vigour. In April 1862, humanVICINITY OF mat.ton—APPLETON-BARTON—SLINGSBY. 253
Appleton-le-Street is a mile beyond Amotherby. The Chwrch liere is prominently situated, and very interesting. Its tower displays the rude simplicity of the Norman style at its earliest period. In the chancel there are two recumbent effigies of females, without inscriptions. This church underwent restoration some years ago, but not in accordance with its date and style.
Barton-le-Street will be reached by proceeding about a mile farther. The old and dilapidated Church is being rebuilt at the expense of Mr. Meynell Ingram, but the elaborate old Norman sculpture, and grotesquely carved corbels, with heads and other devices, will be retained.
Slingsby Castle is about a mile beyond Barton-le-Street, and in the vicinity of the Slingsby station (eight miles from Malton). This ruin is worthy of examination, though it does not possess those features of antiquity and gloomy strength presented by many of the castles of Yorkshire. Its history is of no interest. The first possessor of the domain after the Conquest was Roger de Mowbray, who probably founded a castle here. The estates, being forfeited to the crown in 1322, when John de Mowbray was beheaded for being in arms against the king at Boroughbridge, passed next into the possession of Ralph de Hastings, who also" erected a castle. In 1503 Sir C. Cavendish, a subsequent possessor, began the present building, which appears to have been tenanted for only a short time after its completion. The castle and estate now belong to the Earl of Carlisle.
The position of Slingsby Castle is not a favourable one for defence, it being built on a plain, A deep moat has, however, surrounded one or more of the ancient buildings. The area of the castle is about 120 feet by 90. The greatest height of the walls is 40 feet. The building is of three storeys ; the basement (containing the kitchen, store-rooms, and other offices) being strongly arched, and the second and third storeys being intended for the state apartments and other rooms. The state rooms have
remains were discovered near the Castle Howard Reformatory, 5 miles from Malton, and the burial was ascertained by Mr. Pycock to have been Roman. This led to farther investigations, which resulted in the discovery of many fragments of Roman pottery. The fragments have belonged to about fifty different forms of vessel. The drainage operations carried on in Norton in 1862-63, resulted in the discovery of many interesting antiquarian relics. a considerable portion of a Roman road was laid bare during the excavations, confirming the views which had been advanced in this work, as to the nature and extent of the Roman occupation of Malton.254 vicinity of mat,ton-hovingham—stonegrave.
been very large, and lighted with magnificent windows. There is some elegant carving on the tops of the windows and doorways. At each corner of the castle, and in every storey, there is a small room, five feet by four, and twelve high, arched over, and having two small square holes for windows. The ivy with which this ruin is in some parts clothed adds considerably to its picturesque appearance.
The Chwch, a new structure, occupies the site of the old one, but is somewhat larger. It contains tower, south porch, nave, and clerestory, with side aisles, chancel, and altar. The style of the original building has been followed, and the relics and carved stones preserved.
A tall Maypole still stands in this village.
Hovingham (Hotel: The Worsley Arms), about two miles from Slingsby and ten from Malton, has become of late years a watering-place of some importance. It is pleasantly situated in a richly wooded district, and has, besides the hotel, many comfortable lodging-houses, and all the ordinary means and appliances of such places. The attractive scenery, and places of antiquarian and general interest within reach, serve to add to the advantages which Hovingham possesses as a place of summer resort.
This is a place of great antiquity. It is on the vicinal Roman road from Malton to Isurium, and may possibly have been a station on the earlier British trackway which is supposed to have formed the foundation of this road. It was at all events the site of a Roman station or villa, a Roman bath having been discovered here in a good state of preservation in 1745. Other relics of the Romans have been found in the neighbourhood. The original charter for a market at Hovingham dates from the reign of Henry III.
The Church was, with the exception of its tower, rebuilt in 1860. The tower is very ancient, either Saxon or very early Norman, and well deserves examination.
The Spas, three in number, are at a short distance from the town. Their effect is said to be stimulating and aperient, and their use is recommended, externally and internally, for diseases of the skin, general weakness, etc. The Spa Baths is a neat building, in pleasant grounds.
Hovingham Hall, the seat of Sir "W. Worsley, Bart., is a handsome modern mansion in the Italian style.
Stonegrave. Two miles from Hovingham is the pretty village of Stonegrave, at the foot of the Caukless spur of thevicinity of malton-langton wold.
255
Hambletons. Just below the village is the Church, its chief object of interest. This building was one of the oldest and moBt interesting type, antiquarians being of opinion that part of it was Saxon, while other portions were undoubtedly early Norman. It consisted of nave, aisles, chancel, porch, and square tower. The oldest portions were pulled down in 1862, to be replaced with Perpendicular work. Though this has deprived the church of much of its interest to the antiquarian, there still remains enough in the building to tempt the tourist to pause to examine it. Besides the portions of the ancient structure which have been spared in this much-to-be-regretted " restoration," the tourist will find in the interior an altar screen and three old monumental effigies worthy of attention. The altar screen is a fine piece of oak carving of date 1636. Of the monumental figures, two are of females, and the third a Knight Templar. They are all to members of the Thornton family. The other monuments are unimportant.
A short walk over the hill to Nunnington, in Ryedale, will afford some highly beautiful views. The village is a pretty one, and has an old hall in the Elizabethan style, built on the site of an ancient nunnery, which, according to Dodsworth, was dissolved about 1200.
An excursion southwards from Malton, through a pleasant country, may include Langton Wold, Burythorpe, and BirdBall, gaining the railway at either Wharram or North Grimston.
Crossing the bridge, and passing through Norton, a walk of two miles will bring the tourist to the table land of the famous training ground,* Langton Wold, the various racing stables (for a sight of the interior of which an introduction is needed) being passed on the way. Here there is a small British entrenchment. The Malton race-course round the summit of the Wold was ploughed out in 1862, and the grand stand converted into a farmhouse. The British entrenchment, which is left in grass, commands a pretty extensive view. Looking towards Malton, which forms a pleasing picture, with the Hambleton Hills and the moors for its background, the tourist may observe on the right and near the foot of the Wold, a singular detached mound of limestone capped by a plantation of fir trees. This eminence, which is called How Hill,
* The tourist wishing to view the training stables will obtain every information from Mr. Smithson of the Maiton Messenger.256 VICINITY Off MALTON-KIRBY-UNDERDALE TUMULUS.
has three British barrows on its top. Old armour has been found here.
On the opposite side of the Wold, in a beautiful valley separating the limestone from the chalk, lies the pretty village of Langton, which has a church with some good monuments.
About a mile and a half beyond Langton is the village of Bubythorpe, where there is a boautiful modern church in the Early English style. It occupies the site of an ancient Norman edifice, which, having become insecure, was taken down in 1857, to make room for the present structure. The church crowns a steep eminence, and forms a very prominent object in the landscape. In the interior there is an ancient Norman font which belonged to the former church. The east window, which is of three lights, and filled with fine stained glass, is much admired.
A mile to the east of Burythorpe is Birdsall, the Yorkshire seat of Lord Middleton. The church is new. Some ruins of the old building stand near it, picturesquely ivied. On the hill above Birdsall there is a British rath of an uncommon form.—
Kirby-Underdale Tumulus. Those who are interested in the subject of British barrows are here within four miles of the remarkable prolific tumulus on Uncleby Wold, upon the Kirby-Underdale estates of Viscount Halifax, the examination of which has been completed by the Rev. Canon Greenwell of Durham. The results of the opening have been very important, and in some respects peculiar. The last may be summarised as follows :—70 skeletons (all Anglo-Saxon), 5 iron swords, 40 iron knives, some of which have been in contact with, cloth, the impression remaining on the oxide ; 12 iron steels for sharpening knives, etc., some showing much sign of use ; 8 necklaces of glass and clay beads, two gold pendants, one silver pendant, and an ivory one set in silver ; 20 bronze buckles, some of them gilt ; 30 iron buckles, 4 bronze boxes, one full of thread ; a flint and steel, an oval camelian amulet, highly polished and set in silver ; a silver brooch set with 2 garnets, a silver fibula, a silver pin, 2 whetstones, one 18 in. long, and another 12 in. long (lying on handle of sword), a portion of a smaller whetstone, several bronze and silver rings, 3 spindle-whorls, one of stone, two of bone ; 4 iron picklocks or keys, a bronze bowl, 13 in. diameter ; 2 double cut bone combs, a skeleton of wolf or dog, and other Anglo-Saxon relics ; and the following British, relics—parts of a thong-markedmarket weighton.
257
* drinking cup," a green stone axe, a flint scraper, and other flints.—Malton Messenger, April 1868.
Several places of interest to the east of Malton may be visited in succession, forming a pleasant day's excursion, including Settrington Church. This place furnished the title of Baron to Charles, the natural son of Charles II. The ascent to Settrington Brow, a spur of the Yorkshire Wolds, is worth making for the sake of the magnificent view which it affords of the vast cultivated vale lying between the Wolds and the Moors. An easy descent on the other side of the Brow brings the tourist to the small village of Thorpe Basset, where there is a very interesting little Norman church. A little to the east is the village of Wintringham, with British and Roman entrenchments on the hills above it. Its church is one of the most interesting in the district. At Rlllington, near this, there is also a fine church with a beautiful octagonal spire.
A charming excursion may be made to the west of Malton to Castle Howard (p. 92) and Kirkham Priory (p. 217), visiting, on the way between those places, Bulmer, with its ancient church, and Welburn and Whitwell, with their handsome modern ones. The scenery traversed in this excursion is of great richness and beauty.
MARKET WEIGHTON And its Vicinity.
Inns.—The Londesborough Arms, and The Half Moon.
Distances.
From York, 23 miles; Selby, 17; Beverley, 10; Hull, 18J.
Market Weighton is in itself of little interest to the tourist, but may form a convenient starting-point for visiting several places in its neighbourhood. Its population is 4962.
William Bradley, the Yorkshire giant, was born here in 1792. At the age of 19, he was 7 feet 8 inches high, and weighed 27 stone. He died in 1820.
s•258 vicinity of market weighton-shipton—hayton.
The town is irregularly but pleasantly built. The Church is a building of considerable antiquity, consisting of nave, aisles, chancel, and tower. The tower and some other parts of the building are patched up with brick. In the interior there is little to attract attention. The arches separating the nave from its aisles, and from the chancel, are pointed.
There are three dissenting chapels, and some respectable public buildings.
Goodmanham, 2 miles distant, the site of a Pagan temple mentioned by Bede, and Arras, 4 miles on the Beverley road, the site of a Brigantian village, are both worthy of a visit.
South Dai/ton, about 6 mil pa distant, has a very beautiful Church in the Decorated style, erected by Lord Hotham in 1862.
An excursion to Pocklington (7 miles) by the highway takes the tourist through Shipton and Hayton.
Shipton, about 2 miles from Market Weighton, has a small Church, consisting of nave, north aisle, chancel, and tower with battlements and pinnacles. The door of this church it is worth turning aside for a few minutes to examine. It is a Norman arch, with the beak-head ornaments somewhat rudely executed. This door has a porch, the arch of which is also circular. The nave is divided from its aisle by pointed arches rising from- short massive cylindrical pillars. The aisle extends the whole length of the church, and has at its east end a window nearly circular like the east window of the chancel.
To the north-east, beyond the railway, the tourist will observe as he proceeds the finely wooded grounds of Londea-borough Park, the seat of Lord Londesborough.
Hayton, 3 miles farther on, has an interesting little Church, which has been very carefully and tastefully restored. This edifice, like the church of Shipton just described, consists of nave, aisle, chancel, and a square tower at the west end, with battlements and pinnacles. The main entrance is by a Norman arch, protected by a porch, the inside of which bears an inscription stating that it was rebuilt and the windows restored by W. H. Rudstone Read, Esq., lord of the manor, in 1860. There is a smaller doorway, slightly pointed, into the chancel on the same side. The aisle is divided from the nave by circular arches, springing from two large cylindrical pillars, the capitals of which are adorned with sculptured foliage and monsters. There is a pointed arch between the nave and the belfry, also adorned with grotesque heads. The east window is pointed, and of threevicinity of mabket weighton-pocklington. 250
lights. Like all the other windows, it is filled with good stained glass. There are no monuments of any importance.
At Hayton the tourist may leave the highway, and proceed to Pocklington by a country track through the fields, which will be pointed out to him by any of the villagers. The distance is about 2 miles.
Pocklington is a thriving country town of 2,622 inhabitants. Besides its corn mills and trade in agricultural produce, it has flaxworks, a brewery, an iron foundry, and other manufactures. It is worthy of a visit from the tourist on account of its large and interesting church.
The Church consists of nave, aisles, transepts, chancel, and a handsome tower at the west end with buttresses at its angles, and surmounted by battlements and pinnacles. The north transept has a continuation, doubtless meant for a chapel and vestry. The nave is separated from its aisles by pointed arches rising from massive columns. The capitals of the columns on the north side of the nave are adorned with monsters, but those on the south side are plain. Grotesque human heads, much larger than life, also ornament the capitals of the piers which support the tower. The east window is new, but in accordance with the general style of the church, which is early English.
This church contains a good many objects deserving of examination. In the north transept there is an interesting composition in elaborately carved oak, brought from Italy by Robert Denison, Esq. of Kilnwiok Percy, in this neighbourhood, and placed here, over the family tomb. The large central piece represents the Crucifixion; that on the right, Jesus bearing his cross ; and that on the left, the Descent from the cross. There are smaller groups and scenes below. Here also tliere is a fine monument, the fac-simile of one which bore the date 1589, to the memory of Thomas Dolman, armiger. It is in three divisions —the centre one bearing his recumbent effigy, with that of his wife in a kneeling posture; the left one, his three daughters, kneeling; and the right his five sons, also kneeling. A fine monument to the memory of Eobert Southebee of Pocklington bears the date 1594, and is in excellent preservation. The inscription ends with the pathetic exclamation—" 0 vita, misero longa, fselici brevis!"
In the churchyard there is an old cross, found by the sexton260
middleham church and castle.
in 1835, when digging a grave, and restored by a descendant of John Soteby, to whom it was originally erected.
The town contains various dissenting chapels, a well-endowed Free Grammar School, a National School, new workhouse, etc.
Pocklington is 16 miles from York, by rail
MIDDLEHAM CASTLE (Wensleydale).
Inns in Middleham.—Hogg's, Commercial, Greed Dragon.
From Leyburn, 2J miles (nearest station); Northallerton, 20.
The small town of Middleham is prominently situated on the slope of an eminence on the south side of the Ure, from which it is distant about half a mile. It is in itself of little importance, the only prominent building being the church ; but the remains of the old fortress of the great Earl of Warwick invest it with great interest to the antiquarian and the general tourist.
The Church of Middleham is worth a visit. It appears from its style to belong to the latter part of the fifteenth century. Richard III. entertained the intention of making it collegiate ; but his death at Bosworth Field prevented this from being accomplished. The east window is filled with old stained glass, representing the martyrdom of St. Alkelda. The doorkeeper also points out a tombstone, probably brought from Jervaux, to serve (like other tombstones here) for pavement, on which the twenty-second abbot of that house is quaintly commemorated by the rebus of a sculptured thorn and tun—his name being Robert Thornton.
The Castle, which occupies a commanding position above the town, was founded soon after the Conquest by Robert Fitz-Ranulph, grandson of Ribald, one of the followers of William. In the thirteenth century the castle and lands of Middleham came by marriage into the family of Neville. This celebrated family acted an important part in public affairs in the fourteenth and fifteenth centuries. Ralph Neville, a younger brother of the Lord of Middleham, was the hero of the battle of Neville's Cross, in 1346. John, Lord Neville, who died in 1388, highly distinguished himself in Scotland, France, and Turkey. Ralph Neville, Earl of Westmoreland, who succeeded him, and greatly enlarged the castle, was the betrayer of Archbishop Scroop andMIDDLEHAM CASTLE.	261
his principal supporters in 1405. He persuaded them to disband the forces they had raised to enforce their petition for the " reformation of abuses," by promising that their demands would be complied with ; but no sooner had they done so than they were seized and executed. This Earl of Westmoreland is a prominent character in Shakspere's " King Henry IV." But the most celebrated of the owners of Middleham was Richard Neville, Earl of Warwick,. " the setter up and plucker down of kings." Here the great " king-maker" frequently had for his guest

Edward IV., for whom he afterwards contracted such a deadly enmity as to espouse the cause of Henry VI., whom he had himself been the means of deposing * After the death of Warwick, on the field of Barnet in 1471, Richard, Duke of Gloucester, afterwards Richard III., who married Warwick's youngest daughter, came into the possession of Middleham. Richard appears to have often resided here, most likely on account of
* Few tourists will require to be reminded that some of the finest scenes in Sir Edward Balwer Lytton's romance, " The Last of the Barons," are laid hero.262
MIDDLEHAM CASTLE.
early reminiscences, or the beauty of its situation; and it was in this castle that his only son was born, 1473, and died, 1484. ■From this period little is recorded of the castle till the year 1646, when it was rendered untenable by order of Parliament.
The appearance of the castle from a distance is picturesque, but it is only when the visitor stands among the ruins that he can obtain an adequate idea of its extent and importance. The castle is in the form of a quadrangle of 210 feet by 175, with towers at the angles. The arch of the entrance gateway is very perfect. The central part of the castle, in which may be traced the remains of a chapel and hall, is the original structure of JFitz-Ranulph, with, of course, some repairs and changes by subsequent owners ; but the quadrangle inclosing it is the work of the Nevilles. The centre keep is a good specimen of the Norman work of the close of the twelfth century. The arch over the staircase leading to the great hall is worthy of notice. The walls of the keep are of great thickness, and the mortar seems to be almost as durable as the stone itself.
The castle has been surrounded by a moat, which can be partially traced. On the south side of the castle there is a fine echo.
MIDDLESBOROUGH.
Hotem.—Alexandra, Britannia. Distance from Stockton, 3J m,; Darlington, 15.
Middlesborough is one of those commercial towns of rapid growth that have lately sprung into existence. Although handsome and well built, it contains nothing worthy of the antiquarian's attention ; nor will the lover of the picturesque discover many charms in the surrounding scenery. The origin of the name is uncertain, and it is not mentioned in Domesday Book.
In 1829 there was but one house on the site of the present town ; but at that time a company of six gentlemen, styled the "Middlesborough Owners," purchased about 520 acres of land, and immediately proceeded to the erection of the new town. The extension of the Stockton and Darlington Railway brought the extensive coalfields of Durham into easy access, and ample dock accommodation was soon provided for the exportation of their produce. The discovery of iron-ore in the Cleveland district further advanced its interests and extent, and workshops and iron-foundries sprang up around it. The town has made unexampled strides in wealth and importance, and continues to add to its material prosperity by extending itself in all directions.
The population of the parish, including the township of Linthorpe, numbered in 1831 only 383 ; in 1841, it increased to 5709 ; in 1851, to 7893 ; in 1861, to 19,416 ; and in 1871, to 39,434.NORTHALLERTON.
263
It is now a Parliamentary as well as a Municipal Burgh.
Middlesborough possesses many excellent buildings, but they are all of modern date. The Pabish Chubch, dedicated to St. Hilda, is in the market place, in the Early English style of architecture, and comprises a nave, an apsidal chancel, and a tower, containing eight bells, and surmounted by a fine spire 120 feet high. It was erected in 1839. St. John's Chubch, Marton Road, is in the Decorated style, and consists of a nave with side aisles and clerestory, transept, and chancel. The east window is partially filled with good stained glass. The reredos is of richly carved Caen stone and marble.
The dissenting places of worship are numerous.
The Corporation Hall, at the foot of North Street, is a large and handsome structure in the Grecian style, and was originally intended for an exchange and hotel; but having proved an unsuccessful undertaking, it was conveyed to the Corporation, who altered and devoted it to municipal purposes. The Council Chamber contains a fine portrait of H. W. F. Bolckow, Esq., M.P., of Marton Hall, the first mayor of the town.
Other prominent buildings are the Oddfellows' Hall, containing the largest room in Middlesborough, the Mechanics' Institution, the Athenccum, and the Masonic Hall.
The Parle, containing about 72 acres, is beautifully laid out, about a mile from the centre of the town. It was presented to the town by Mr. Bolckow, and comprises a good cricket ground and bowling green, ornamental waters, an avenue of Wellingtonias, and a circular plot in the centre for statuary.
Near the dock is a handsome Italian Clock Tower, of brick and stone, in three stages, with a look-out gallery at the top.
NORTHALLERTON.
Inks.—Golden, Lion, Black Bull. Distance from York, 30| miles.
This town consists chiefly of one long street, irregularly built, and is situated on a gentle eminence, sloping towards the west. Its spacious market place would be improved by the removal of certain small houses and shops erected on the street after the fashion of several other old towns in Yorkshire. The town is noted for its races. It returns one M.P. Population, 5000.
The Church is a large building of some antiquity, though not of much interest, being neither regular in plan nor uniform in style. It occupies the site of an edifice raised, according to Dr. Stukeley, at a very early period. The interior contains several monuments, none of them, however, worthy of note.
Northallerton was a Roman station, indubitable traces of the sixth legion (consisting of a circular wall, a wooden floor, coins, etc.) having been discovered in the Castle Hill by railway excavators. In the neighbourhood of the town, in 1138, was fought the battle of the Standard, in which David L of Scotland was defeated by Thurstan, Archbishop of York. The battle took its name from the standard of the English, which was a264
bedale—mountgraoe priory.
tall mast, fixed in a huge chariot, having at the top a pix with the host, and a cross bearing the banners of St. Peter and St. John of Beverley.
Bed axe (Hotels: Black Swan, Royal Oah, King's Bead) is eight miles from Northallerton by rail. This quiet little market-town is pleasantly situated in a rich valley. The Ch urch is a spacious building with a handsome square tower, which is said to have often proved useful in former days for defence against the Scots. It was restored in 1855, when due care was taken to preserve its various features of antiquity. There are two old monuments in the interior, at the west end, both having a pair of recumbent figures, with lions or other animals at their feet. The figures on the right, on entering, have no inscription. Those on the left are the effigies of Sir Brian Fitzallan, Earl of Arundel, and his wife. " He was the King's Lieutenant," says an inscription on a board over the figures, " of the whole Realme of Scotland, in ye time of Edward ye first. He built a castle at Kil-wardby, and another at Bedale, Com-Ebor. His coat armour is in the east window of the south Isle of this Chancell (viz.) Barry of Eight Pieces or. and Gules." There is a monumental brass inserted in a stone in the floor, in front of tho chancel. In the chancel there are three sedilia and a piscina. Tlie east window is a good one though small, and is filled with fine stained glass. Two modern monuments may be noticed—that of Sir John Poo Beresfurd, Baronet, K.C.B., G.C.H., and G.C.T-S., Admiral of the White ; and that of Henry Peirse, Esq. of Bedale, and his daughter, with their sculptured figures in relief. There is a handsome font at the west end of the church. Some old sculptured stones, probably sepulchral, have been built into the vestry wall.
Of the castle built at Bedale by Brian Fitzallan, to which reference is made in the above inscription, there are now no remains ; but it stood at a short distance from the church, and partly on the grounds of the elegant mansion of H. Peirse, Esq. About 3 miles south of Bedale is Thorpe Perrow, the seat of Fred. A. Milbank, Esq., M.P. for North Yorkshire.
About 8 miles north-east from Northallerton are the Ruins of Mount-Grace Priory. This priory was founded in 1396 by Thomas Holland, Duke of Surrey, for Carthusian monks. Its situation is secluded and romantic ; and its remains will repay an examination. The church is the most interesting part of these ruins. It is cruciform in its plan, and has the remains of a square tower at the intersection of the transepts. Many parts ofvicinity of northallerton—patrick brompton. 265
the walls are still of considerable height, and the masses of ivy, which cluster luxuriantly in some places, add much to the effect of the ruins. The east end of the chancel has disappeared, as has also the south wall; but part of the north wall is about half its original height, and has two windows of three lights each. Some tracery remains in a window in the south transept. The remains of the conventual buildings are also interesting, especially to antiquarians, as this is perhaps the only Carthusian house in the county. The refectory, the cells of the monks, the kitchen, with the marks of fire in its ample chimney, and other details, may be noticed and compared with those of the houses of other religious orders more commonly met with. No inscriptions are visible ; but it is thought that a careful excavation of the ruins might lead to discoveries which would repay the trouble.
Patrick Brompton, about a mile from Newton-le-Willows station (1 If miles from Northallerton, by same line), has a Churcn of some antiquity, consisting of nave, aisles, and chancel, divided from each other by pointed arches with zig-zag ornaments ; and a tower at the west end. There is a doorway with a porch, both pointed, the zig-zag mouldings of the former concealed by whitewash. In the interior there are a piscina and a small but neat marble font.
The village stocks may be observed by the roadside, not .far from the station.
Hornby Castle, the seat of the Duke of Leeds, is five miles from Bedale, and about three from Patrick Brompton. Some portions of this stately mansion are of much antiquity, being said to date as far back as the Conquest; but the general aspect of the building is modern. The apartments are superb in their dimensions and style of furnishing, and contain numerous paintings, some of them valuable. The site is a commanding one, presenting fine viev/s, and the grounds and neighbourhood are very attractive.
Leyburn and the Shawl, eighteen miles from Northallerton, is described under Wensleydale, in a subsequent part of this work (page 368).
About 7 miles from Northallerton, in Swaledale, is the pretty village of Kirby Wiske, where Roger Aschani was born, in 1515.
OLD MALTON.—See Malton.266
otley-the choroh.
OTLEY and Lower Wharfedale.
Hotels.—White Horse, Blade Horse.
Distance from Leeds, 12 miles. Midland and N.E. Railway.
Whitaker says this place is the Othelai of Domesday Book, the field of Othe or Otho, a name not uncommon before and after the Conquest. Long before the Conquest the manor of Otley was given by Athelstan to the Archbishops of York, who had a castellated palace here, no traces of which now remain. This town at one period returned two members to Parliament, but, having to pay their expenses, was relieved from the burdensome honour, on petitioning Henry VI. to that effect. Its population is 12,103, and its trade is considerable. The staple articles of manufacture were formerly spurs and saddlery ; they are now woollen yarns and paper. The market is on Friday.
The town is well but irregularly built, and charmingly situated. The Church of All Saints (restored 1869) is spacious and interesting, and replaced the ancient Saxon structure. The circular arch of the north doorway is of considerable antiquity, but is probably not older than the time of Henry VI. The Manor-House, a handsome edifice at the head of the Kirk-gate, occupies the site of the archiepiscopal palace mentioned above. Adjoining it is the Roman Catholic Chapel, which is fitted up in the style of the superior class of these buildings. There are several other dissenting chapels in the town. Some of the houses have a quaint, Antique aspect.*
The Chevin, a precipitous hill at the S.E. of the town, has been often described by travellers, t It now presents fewer of its bold crags, these being to a considerable extent hid by trees, or quarried for building purposes. It is said -that blocks of stone from the Chevin form the foundations of the Houses of Parliament. The \iew of Wharfedale from the summit of the Chevin is one of great beauty.
The upper part of the dale from Bolton Priory has already been described (pp. 64-73). Ilkley and its neighbourhood have received separate notices (pp. 48 and 201), as has also Cawood,
* A clever gossiping acount of Otley and Wharfedale is given in two lectures delivered by the Rev. J. Hart, B. A., late vicar of the parish, published under the title—"Wharfedale, its Topography, Antiquities, and Scenery." t A steep footpath leads up to it from the station.otley-loweb whabfedale.
267
with its memories of Cardinal Wolsey (p. 98); and Harewood has been described with. Harrogate (p. 167). Tadcaster, the Kornan Calcaria, will be found in a subsequent part of this work.
From Arthington to Otley the road is a very pleasant one. Arthington is in the parish of Adel, the fine old Norman Church of which is described at length in the Vicinity of Leeds. A mile from Arthington the tourist passes through Pool, which has a neat church, and one or two paper mills. Three miles from Pool the mansion of Caley Hall will be passed on the left, the property of the Gascoigne family in 1500, now of Mr. Fawkes. Two miles below Otley the Wharfe receives on its left side the Washburn river. Farnley Hall, a handsome mansion in the Elizabethan style, with modern additions, situated in pleasant grounds, occupies the angle above this junction, and is the seat of F. H. Fawkes, Esq. It contains some good paintings (mainly by Turner), and other objects of art, which may be seen on request. On the east bank of the Washburn, a little above its junction with the Wharfe, stands the rural and picturesque hamlet of Leathley, with an old Norman church restored in 1869.
A short distance north of Otley is Fewstone, once the residence of the poet Edward Fairfax, best known for his translation of Tasso. He died there in 1632.
Three miles south of Otley, over the Chevin, is Guiseley, with its old church, which represents almost every style of Gothic architecture. The porch is Norman, with cylindrical columns and enriched capitals. The nave and south aisle are divided by circular arches rising from columns, the capitals of some of which exhibit an approach to foliation. Around the piers, from which rise the arches at the entrance to the chancel, there are curious disengaged shafts deserving of notice. The church has been recently restored, mainly through the munificence of M. W. Thompson, Esq., of Parkgates. The windows are in the Early English, Decorated, and Perpendicular styles. Jn the churchyard there is the remnant of a Saxon cross. About 2 miles west is the venerable manor-house of Hawksworth, with its memorials of a visit from James I. It belongs to the Fawkes family.
Two miles west of Otley lies the model village of Burley, praised by the poet Gray. It is chiefly a long street, extending about half-a-mile. The population is 2100, and is mainly employed in the worsted mills of Greenholme, on the banks of the Wharfe.268
OTLEY-LOWER WHARFEDALE.
In the immediate vicinity is Wharfeside, the residence of the Right Hon. W. E. Forster. The next mansion is that of Walton House, which contains some valuable pictures, and illuminated missals and psalters in vellum. The proprietors of Greenholme have erected a very beautiful lecture-hall and schools in the village, which the passer-by cannot fail to admire. The church (restored 1869) has a fine spire. The largest meeting-house is in French Gothic. Burley Hall, at the back of the church, once belonging to the Fairfax family, is the residence of the lady of the manor. Moorville, the residence of R. J. Hudson, Esq., J.P., at Burley Woodhead, is a charming residence. Burley House and Lodge, at the east end of the village, were built by Mr. Maude, author of Beveral poems descriptive of Wenslevdale and Wharfedale, who died in 1798. More modern are The Lavm, and The Grange; the latter contains some fine pictures and Indian curiosities. Weston, on the other side of Wharfe, has some striking remains of antiquity in its Church and Hall. The Hall is, in truth, and in contempt of question, the most beautiful in situation, and the most interesting of all the residences in this part of Yorkshire. The poet Gray (Works, 378, quarto), in describing it, speaks of " the great and shady wood "—now a noble family of trees— behind the Hall. The structure itself is of the age of Elizabeth, but contains many remains of an earlier date. The Stop-hams were the original proprietors of " Weston-in-Werverdale." In the reign of Edward II. the heiress of the Stophams intermarried with the representative of the house of Vavasour of Askwith, in which family and name the estate descended till the marriage of the last representative with the Rev. John Carter of Lincoln. The garden still contains " a large and highly-finished casino or banqueting-house," which imparts a special charm to the view of the Hall, with which it is coeval. The Church contains the vaults of the Stophams and Vavasours. Originally Norman, it has been reduced to Gothic, with the exception of the circular chancel-arch. The parish was separated from Otley before the Conquest. In the time of Edward the Confessor it had been the property of Tobsand ; and was transferred by grant of the Conqueror to Beranger and Todern. Menstone* m. S. from Burley, is a village with a noble spring. Here Cromwell passed the day with Charles Fairfax previous to the battle of Marston Moor. The New Church is small, but beautiful.
* At Menstone and Burley are junctions of Midland and N.E.R.pickering.
269
About four miles from Otley is Ben Rhydding, opposite which, oil the other side of the Wharfe, is Denton Park, once the estate of Lord Fairfax, the noted Parliamentary general, and for several generations the property of his family. It belongs now to M. "Wyville, Esq., M.P. The present edifice is modern, and the grounds, though finely wooded, are not extensive. One mile distant is Ilkley, noted as a watering-place (p. 201).
One mile W. from Ilkley, the tourist may observe on the left the remains of the Roman road to Coccium (Ribchester). Addingham, three miles from Ilkley, a neat church has been erected by the Vavasours, to whom the manor was devised by Robert de Romille, towards the end of the 11th century. There is a Norman arch between the nave and chanceL Here the Skipton road is left for a branch on the right, which conducts through two miles of pleasant scenery, with Beamdey Beacon on the right, to Bolton Bridge (where are two good inns) and The Priory (see p. 64).
PATRINGTON—In the vicinity of Hull. PICKERING.
Horns.—Black Svxm (where Keys of the Castle are kept), George, White Swan.
Distances.
From York, 32f miles ; Whitby, 24; Scarborough, 23.
Pickering, though not of much importance in the present day, is a town of great antiquity. There is a legend told by the old chroniclers, that it was built 270 years before Christ, and derived its name from the recovery of a ring lost in the river Costa, a little below the town, by a British king, and found in the belly of a pike. The manor of Pickering belonged to Morcar, Earl of Northumberland, in the time of Edward the Confessor. After the conquest it remained for many years in the possession of the Crown. After various transmissions, it came into the possession of John of Gaunt, and was subsequently annexed to the Duchy of Lancaster, to which the town still belongs. Its population is 4973.
Pickering is pleasantly situated on the side of a hill, at the bottom of which flows a small stream called the Pickering Beck, which joins the Costa a short distance from the town. With the exception of its castle and church, this town has nothing to interest the tourist. These edifices, however, taken in conjunction with270
riCKERING castle.
the neighbouring scenery, which can be conveniently visited from this town, entitle Pickering to a separate notice.
The Castle is situated on an eminence on the northern extremity of the town, near the railway station. The date of its erection is unknown ; but there can be no doubt that a castle existed here from a very early period. The first mention of it in authentic records is in documents of the reign of Henry III. In the year 1399, the unfortunate Richard IL was confined here for a short time, previous to his removal to Pontefract Castle, where he was murdered. An old rhymer says—
" The kyng then sent kyng Richard to Ledes, TheTe to be kepte surely in previtee, Fro thens after to Pykeryng went he nedes, And to Knauesburgh after led was he, Bat to Pountefrete last, where he did die."
In the time of Charles L, it was besieged and taken by the Parliamentarians, who appear to have dismantled it. The extensive and interesting ruins of this fortress still remain.
The area inclosed within the castle walls is about three acres, a portion of the space being used as garden ground. The gate tower, which is on the south side, is in ruins. Through this tower, a modern doorway gives admission to the castle. It consists of an outer and inner court, each strongly defended with walls and towers. Two interesting surveys of this castle, the one taken in the time of James I., and the other in the time of the Commonwealth, are printed in a work on the " Scenery on the line of the Whitby and Pickering Railway." There is not space for comparing the present remains with the particulars of that survey. The principal features still exist as they were then described, but are much more ruinous. Rosamond's Tower, so named from a tradition that Fair Rosamond, the beautiful and unfortunate mistress of Henry II., was once a prisoner in it, is still nearly complete. It is three storeys high ; and a staircase, communicating with the different apartments, leads to its top. The Devil's Tower, as that to the north is designated, is in ruins ; but the Mill Tower, at the south-west corner, is of some elevation. The Keep, the oldest part of the structure, occupies a position on a large artificial mound in the inner court. Only the basement storey remains, with some openings for windows or arrow slits, about two inches wide. The inner court has been defended by a wall and towers, and by a moat.pickering church.
271
Fine views of neighbouring scenery may be obtained from various parts of the ruins, particularly from the Mill Tower and the Keep.
The Church is a spacious and ancient structure, with a beautiful spire, and is dedicated to St. Peter. It consists of nave, aisles, transept, chancel, and tower, surmounted by a lofty spire, and has some remains of Norman architecture ; though, as a whole, it is a specimen of the ecclesiastical architecture of the fourteenth century, when the early English passed into the Decorated style. The stone ol which it is constructed is considerably worn by the action of the weather. The interior is interesting. Circular arches, rising from massive pillars with square capitals, divide the aisles from the nave ; but the arches of the transepts and chancel are pointed. On entering by the door in the south aisle the tourist will observe in the wall on his right the remains of a piscina. In the chancel there are three sedilia, with sculptured canopies in tabernacle work, and a piscina. Here also there are two fine old monuments, one on either side of the chancel. That on the north side has the effigies of a knight (in armour) and his lady, recumbent with folded hands, both figures having a pair of angels at the head. On the south side is the effigy of another knight in armour, with two defaced angels at his head. In the chancel also lies the mutilated trunk of a knight, from some monument that has been destroyed. The^east window is a good example of the prevailing transition style of the church. It is of five lights, and is filled with beautiful stained glass, having the figure of our Saviour in the centre light, and those of the four evangelists in the others. This window was erected in 1861 in memory of Thomas Mitchelson, Esq., by his nephew. In 1853, in the course of some repairs, several frescoes were discovered on the wall of the chancel, on the accidental displacement of a portion of the whitewash. The figures, it is said, were life-size, and finely drawn, the colours being as fresh as when they were laid on. The subjects of the paintings were the Last Supper and the Crucifixion. These relics of Roman Catholic times were regarded by the vicar as improper decorations of a Protestant place of worship ; and they were accordingly again covered with a coat of whitewash. It is perhaps to be regretted that some means was not adopted for the preservation of these frescoes for the inspection, at proper times, of antiquarians, and other persons interested in such things. A272
vicinity of pickering-cawthorne.
folding panel, or 6ome such device, might have served for this
purpose.
This church underwent extensive repairs and restorations, especially in the chancel and the chapel adjoining it on its south side, in the year 1861.
VICINITY OF PICKERING.
The country round Pickering is very interesting. Many of the small villages are near, or upon the site of ancient Brigan-tian settlements, the traces of which still exist to delight the antiquary. There is not space to give a detailed list of all these spots where our rude forefathers have left such enduring marks of themselves. The discovery of them here and there for himself will increase the interest and pleasure of the tourist, while traversing the surrounding country. In the following account of the chief places of interest in this vicinity, the most important of these British remains in this district will be noticed.
Cawthorne, four miles from Pickering, and about half that distance from the Levisham station, is a place of high interest to the antiquarian on account of its extensive Roman fortifications. Many antiquarians are of opinion that this is the Delgovitia of the first iter of Antoninus. Various considerations go to favour this idea. One of the four camps which exist here has evidently been a permanent military station, with the Roman road from Malton to Dunsley passing through it. Again, if antiquarians are right in making Malton Derventio, and Dunsley Praetorium, the intermediate station of Delgovitia, according to the measurements of the iter, must fall near Cawthorne. These camps are deserving of a careful examination. King (in his " Munimenta Antiqua," vol. ii., p. 132) is of opinion that these works confirm the idea of auxiliary troops being encamped or stationed distinct from legionary troops, and by themselves. The principal camp here has been the most westerly one. Though smaller than the others, it is superior to them in strength and workmanship ; it is square, and fortified by a double trench. The Roman road from Dunsley to Malton passes through this camp, dividing it into two equal portions. The adjoining works are irregular in their outlines ; that next the principal camp approaching an oval, 850 feet in length, and 320 in breadth. The other two are larger, forming an oblong divided into two irregular squares by a com-vicinity of pickering-cropton-lastingham. 273
in on wall. The largest of these Roman camps is about 560 feet by 550. These fortifications are among the most complete and interesting in the country. On the moor, near them, are some British tumuli.
Cropton, half a mile distant from Cawthorne, is the site of some early British works. The chief of these is a lofty mound about 200 yards west from the church. It is about 30 feet high, and 150 feet when measured from the bottom of the trench by which it is defended, over the top, and to the bottom on the other side. It is very generally agreed by antiquarians that the mounds or "raths," of which this is a good example, were British. They are sometimes wholly artificial; but often, as in the present instance, advantage is taken of some natural elevation of the ground. This mound has never been opened ; neither, indeed, we believe, have any of the other British camps of this kind in this part of the country. The summit of this mound commands a beautiful and extensive prospect. To the north is a great sweep of brown moors, contrasting with the cultivated fields that lie in the foreground. To the north-west is the village of Last-ingham, half hid from view by a wooded ridge. Westward is a pleasant vale, well cultivated and picturesquely wooded; and close at hand on the south is the hamlet of Cropton, with its pretty little modern church.
Near the mound there are several tumuli. The village itself is unimportant.
Lastingham is reached by a walk of two miles more. This picturesquely situated village has an extremely interesting Norman church, the details of which cannot fail to delight the eccle-siologist, although he will feel pained by the ignorant disfigurement which it has undergone. Its fine apse is blocked up by a modern painting, and a lantern-light has been introduced into the roof of the chancel, as a substitute for the small Norman windows that are shut up by the picture and two monumental tablets. The painting, which represents Christ in the Garden, is indeed a very beautiful one, probably one of the best works of John Jackson, R.A., a native of this village (born 1778, died 1830), who presented it to the church ; but most antiquarians will be of opinion that it was dearly gained at the cost of such disfigurement to this ancient structure. The introduction of the lantern-light and the closing of the windows were the work of Jackson himself; and, if the incongruous feature in an ancient
t274 vicinity of pickering-rosed ale-levisham.
church can be forgiven, it must be confessed that the painting by this arrangement is placed in an admirable light. Under the church there is a vaulted crypt, altogether a fine piece of very early Norman, if not Saxon, work. The font appears to be Saxon. This church once possessed a fine screen of carved oak in tabernacle work ; but some repairs having to be effected during the absence of the vicar, the churchwardens made a fire with it to melt the lead !
From Lastingham the tourist may proceed three miles northwards to Rosedale, whei;e there are some fragments of a Benedictine priory, founded in the time of Richard I. A branch railway from the Cleveland lines has been made here for the purpose of working and carrying away the ironstone, which is abundant.
Or, from Lastingham the tourist may proceed by Appleton-on-the-Moor, or Hutton-in-the-Hole, to Kirby Moorside, a distance of about seven miles. At Appleton-le-Moors, a very handsome and costly memorial church has been built—one of the most conspicuous objects from most parts of the N. and E. Ridings.
Levisham, six miles from Pickering by rail, is an unimportant hamlet, but has in its neighbourhood various places worth a visit. Levisham Bottoms, as the vale here traversed by the railway is called, is cultivated and well wooded, but not so picturesque as the upper and wilder part of Newton Dale. The view of Newton Dale from its head at Fen Bog has been compared to that of a wilderness in Judea. The line of railway between Whitby and Pickering presents views of scenery of the most diversified kind ; and many of the smaller glens which branch off from Eskdale, the Vale of Goathland, and Newton Dale, possess considerable attractions to the lover of nature.
" The sections of strata about the Levisham station," remarks Professor Phillips, " are very instructive parts of the peculiar oolitic coalfield, shewing, in downward order, the coralline oolite, calcareous grit, Oxford clay, Kelloway's rock, cornbrash, sandstones and shales, with plants, marks of coal, and granular ironstone of great richness, in thin irregular beds and nodules. This dale is occasionally enlivened by the evening strains of the blackcap, a warbler not to be contemned even where the nightingale has been heard."
A delightful moorland walk may be commenced at Levisham, taking the old coach road over the moor to the summit of Salters-gate Brow. To the left of this eminence, and close to the road.poxtefract.
275
is a remarkable hollow called the Hole of Hercum. Here, oil the east side, near the enclosed land, the rare plant Cornus suecica grows among the heather. This is also a habitat of many plants which the botanist may wish to add to his collections. At a short distance is the Saltergate Inn, an important house in the old coaching days. To the right is Blackhow Topping, a peculiarly shaped eminence, on the moor adjoining which there is a number of tumuli and other ancient works, deserving of the attention of the antiquarian.
Turning his back upon Blackhow Topping, and walking due south, the tourist will in a short time come in sight of The Bbidestones, a number of huge rocks fringing both sides of a deep glen. Some of these singular rocks are shaped like mushrooms, particularly one, called " The Salt Cellar," which is thirty feet high, and in one place near the top twenty feet broad, while the stalk which supports it is only three feet across in one direction, and six in the other. These stones have a Druidical reputation.
From the Bridestones the tourist may proceed down the valley to Dalby Farm, and thence to Ellerburn, which has a curious old church, and Thornton, where he is about two miles from Pickering.
PONTEFRACT.
Hotels.—The Elephant, The Red Lion, Green Dragon, etc.
Distanoes.
From York, 21 miles; Knottingley, 2£; Doncaster, 14; Sheffield, 25; Leeds, 12.
Camden remarks regarding this town:—" In the Saxons' time it was called Kirkby, but the Normans, of a broken bridge named it in French, Pontfract. Upon this occasion, as it is commonly thought, that the wooden bridge over Are hard by was broken, when a mighty multitude of people accompanied William, Archbishop of York (King Stephen's sister's son), newly returned from Rome. Whereby a great number fell into the the river, and yet by reason that the Archbishop shed many a tear at this accident, and called upon God for help, there was not one of them that perished." The town is pleasantly situated and well built. It has a population of 11,242, and 2616 inhabited houses, showing a very slight decrease upon the census of 1861. Round the town there are extensive gardens and276
PONTEFRACT CASTLE.
nurseries, from which large quantities of vegetables are sent to Leeds, Wakefield, and other towns ; while seedlings are sent to considerable distances. Liquorice is much cultivated here ; and the liquorice cakes of Pontefract are largely exported and justly celebrated. The town has been uninterruptedly represented in Parliament since the time of James I.
All that is remarkable in the history of Pontefract (pronounced Pumfret) is embraced in that of the castle.
Pontefract Castle, the ruins of which still serve to give some idea of its ancient strength and magnificence, is one of the most celebrated fortresses in the kingdom. It was built by Hildebert de Lacy, one of the followers of William the Conqueror, about 1080. In 1310, the Castle and estates came by marriage into the possession of Thomas, Earl of Lancaster, who was beheaded in the neighbourhood of his castle for an unsuccessful rising against Edward II., several lords, his adherents, being hanged at Pontefract the same day. Pontefract Castle is chiefly famous as the scene of the death of Richard II., in 1399. Historians are not agreed as to the manner of Richard's death. Some say that he was starved to death; others that he was murdered by Sir Pierce Exton and his attendants. Shakspere adopts the latter version :—
" Enter Exton and servants, armed.
Kino Richard. How now ? what means death in this rude assault ? Villain, thine own hand yialds thy death's instrument.
(Snatching a weapon, and hilling one.) Go thou, and fill another room in helL
(He kills another, then Exton strikes him down.) That hand shall burn In never quenching fire, That staggers thus my person. Exton, thy fierce hand Hath with the king's blood stained the king's own land. Mount, mount, my soul I thy seat is up on high; Whilst my gross flesh sinks downward here to die.
(Dies.)
Exton. As full of valour, as of royal blood: Both have I spilt; Oh, would the deed were good I For now the devil, that told me I did well, Says that this deed is chronicled in helL This dead king to the living king I'll bear; Take hence the rest, and give them burial here.	[Exeunt."
King Richard II., Act V., Scene 5.
In the reign of Henry IV., Richard Scroop, Archbishop of York, who had been in arms against the king, being treacherously taken prisoner, was here condemned to death. ThePONTEFRACT CASTLE.
27?
sentence was executed near Bishopthorpe, June 8, 1405. Again, in 1483, was Pontefract Castle the scene of a bloody tragedy. Earl Rivers, Richard Lord Grey, and Sir Thomas Vaughan were executed here without any legal trial by the orders of Richard, Duke of Gloucester, afterwards Richard III. Shakspere puts the following lines in the mouth of Rivers :—
" O Pomfret, Pomfret I O thou bloody prison, Fatal and ominous to noble peers I Within the guilty closure of thy walls, Richard the Second here was hacked to death ; And, for more slander to thy dismal seat, We give thee up our guiltless blood to drink."
King Richard III., Act III., Scene 3.
The castle sustained three sieges—one in 1536, from Robert Aske, captain-general of the " Pilgrimage of Grace," to whom it surrendered ; and the other two in the time of Charles I. It was demolished in 1649, by order of the Parliament.
The style of the castle is Norman, but there have been additions and improvements of a later date. The defences were on an elaborate scale. To reach the round tower or keep, which was the citadel of the building, it was necessary to pass one of the outer barbicans or gatehouses, traverse the outer yard, pass another gate in the centre wall into the castle yard, from which a steep flight of stairs conducted to the keep. Add to this the moats or ditches, the great strength of masonry of ths tower, and its excellent position, and the importance of this fortress may be conceived.
The principal part of the ruin is a- fragment of the keep, consisting of the remains of two massive round towers, with some connecting walla. Entering the keep, which is about sixty-four feet in diameter, the remains of the great staircase (leading to the state and other apartments above, now destroyed) may be observed on the right hand. Farther on from this staircase is a small square room, probably designed for the captain of the guard. It is formed in the heart of one of the round towers referred to, which is of solid stone from the level of this room to the bottom of the mount on which the keep is built. The other tower, also built down to the ground, has a very singular staircase, narrow and zig-zag, leading down to a sally-port at the outside of the tower. About half-way down this staircase there are two small branches, leading, the one to what Heems to have been a well, and the other to a frightfully small dungeon.278
vicinity of pontefhact-castleford.
There seem to have been no provisions for tlie admission of light into the lower storey of the keep. Like Conisborough Castle, its great lower apartment has evidently depended for light upon the doorway. There has been a small window in the guard-room already mentioned. A little way in front of the foot of the stairs, by which the keep is entered, is the square mouth of what may have been either a dungeon or the commencement of a subterranean sally-port. In the great wall, which is eighteen feet thick, and farther from the entrance to the keep, is a wretched chamber or dungeon. Tradition says that it was here that Richard IL was confined and murdered. The smallness of the apartment, however, hardly agrees with the ordinarily received account of his death. It is not improbable that the unfortunate monarch was confined and murdered in one of the large apartments in the keep, now destroyed. Near the centre of the area is the powder magazine, cut out of the solid rock, and 27 feet below the surface of the ground It is 18 feet long by 10 broad, and has several cells or dungeons adjoining.
The entire area of the fortress has been about seven acres. It has been turned into orchards and gardens. From the highest part of the ruins there are very extensive and beautiful views in all directions.
The parish church is a handsome but modern building. The original church received much injury during the war between Charles L and his parliament, and has been ever since in a ruinous condition. It is hemmed in by small houses. It was partially restored a number of years ago, and fitted up for public worship. The floor has been used as a churchyard
There are several chapels belonging to the Nonconformist bodieg.
Other leading public buildings are the Market Hall, Court House, etc.
There are several spots of interest to the tourist in this neighbourhood
Castleford, about 3 miles to the north-west of Pontefract, is the Legeolium of Antoninus. Camden was the first to direct attention to this place, though all that he has recorded is the fact of the frequent discovery here of ancient coins, to which the ignorant inhabitants gave the name of Saracen's heads. Urns, stone pavements, and foundations have been found here. At this place, Rudgate, the great road from Isurium, crossed the Aire, by a ford nt the head of the tide. Dr. Whitaker remarks, regarding Castle-vicinity of pontefract-methley.
279
ford, " It is . still a fact to me inexplicable, that the sites of some of our stations, and Castleford among them, appear to have been sown with coins. When I was there, considerable gleanings of the harvest remained, and, besides a pretty intaglia on a cornelian, I procured a scarce denarius of Caracalla, reverse a lion." The church, which is of no interest, occupies the Bite of the Roman castrum, and is, perhaps, built out of its ruins. The omnibus, which runs several times a day between Pontefract and Castleford, will often be found more suitable than the railway.
Ferry Bridge, 2 miles distant to the north-east, is celebrated as the scene of a skirmish in 1461, previous to the great battle of Towton Field. Human skeletons, ancient armour, and other relics of the contest have been found here. This was a place of some considerable importance in the old coaching days, but it is now a sufficiently dull and melancholy village.
Methley, 2£ miles distant by rail, is a pleasant village, situated in a rich and finely-wooded district. It is a place of much antiquity, being mentioned in Domesday. The Church, which is dedicated to St. Oswald, is an interesting old edifice, consisting of nave, south aisle, chancel, and tower, surmounted by a fine spire. It is partly in the decorated, and partly in the Tudor style. Over the south entrance there is a mutilated statue of St. Oswald. The interior contains various objects worthy of notice. At the end of the aisle, partitioned off by a fine screen of Perpendicular carved work, is the Waterton Chapel, founded by the executors of Sir Robert Waterton, who died in 1424. This chapel contains some fine sepulchral monuments. That to the memory of the founder is an altar tomb, bearing the figures in alabaster of himself and Cecily his wife, recumbent, and with their hands folded as in prayer. Opposite this is a monument of similar character, with the effigies of Lionel, Lord Wells, who fell at Towton Field, and Cecily his wife, also in alabaster. The chapel likewise contains several beautiful monuments to members of the Saville family, with their figures. The details of the ornamentation of this very interesting chapel are well deserving of examination, but cannot be here particularly referred to.
Methley Park, the residence of the Earl of Mexborough, is a stately building, finely situated at a short distance from the village.200	itedcar.
REDCAR.
Hotels in Redcar:—Red Lion, Crown and Anchor, Swan, Royal, Zetland, etc.
From Darlington, 25 miles; Northallerton, 39 ; Guisborough, 8.
The small town of Redcar, a few miles south from the mouth of the Tees, forms, along with the adjoining village of Coatham, a sea-bathing resort of considerable favour, notwithstanding its ungainly appearance. The plan of the town is objectionable, consisting as it does mainly of one long street, with the backs of the houses on one side turned to the sea. It contains good hotels, and a number of lodging-houses. A sea-wall, forming a fine terrace 30 feet wide, has lately been constructed.
The sands of Redcar can nowhere be surpassed in extent, being 10 miles in length, and stretching from Tees mouth to Saltburn. They have been characterised as " smooth as velvet, yet so firm that neither horse nor man leave their imprint on them as they tread the strand." " This peculiarity," Dr. Granville remarked many years ago, "gives Redcar its sea-bathing celebrity, many people who desire to have good sea-bathing, repairing thither from many parts, in order to enjoy at the same time the daily walks or rides over the broad floor."
Coatham Church, on the other hand, is an elaborately beautiful structure, in the Decorated style, well deserving of examination. Everything in the architecture and the ornamentation is in fine taste ; and the building, which was erected a year or two ago, is throughout a good example of the style in accordance with which it has been constructed. The details of the interior are especially interesting. The nave is divided from its aisles by pointed arches rising from elegant clustered columns with foliated capitals. The windows of the aisles are of two lights, and the clerestory ranges consist of a series of four trefoils on either side. An arch, similar to but loftier than those of the aisles, separates the chancel from the nave. On the south side of the chancel there are two sedilia, with beautifully sculptured canopies terminating in crocketed pediments; and on the north side there is a piscina in the same style. The east window is of three lights, filled with rich stained glass — the central one representing the ascension of our Saviour ; that on the left illustrating the text, " Blessed are they that ha.ve not seen, and yetRICHMOND.
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have believed and that on the right, " Why call ye me Lord, Lord, and do not the things that I say unto you 1" This window has a handsome reredos of sculptured stone. Most of the other windows are of stained glass. The pulpit is of stone, finely carved in accordance with the style of the church. Pews, floor, and roof, all display taste ; and the church is, altogether, a gem.
From Redcar or Saltburn the tourist may visit Kirkleatham, which has a Church, containing monuments of the Turners, and near it Turner's Hospital, founded in 1676 ; Skelton Castle (p. 150); Guisborough Priory (p. 146), and other places of interest.
The neighbouring town of Marske has nearly trebled its population since the census of 1851, owing to the opening of ironstone mines in the vicinity.
RICHMOND.
Hotels.—King's Eead, Zetland Arms, Town Hall Inn.
Distances.
From Darlington, 15J miles ; Dalton Junction, 9J ; Northallerton, 18}.
The town of Richmond is beautifully situated on a little amphitheatre of hills above the river Swale, which is here charmingly wooded. The name may be derived either from a castle in Brittany, which, belonged to the Norman Baron on whom the Conqueror bestowed this district, or from the fertility of the tract of land in which this castle was built. Alan, the first Norman Earl of Richmond, and the founder of the castle, appears to have been a special favourite of William, his services being rewarded with no fewer than 164 manors in this county, as well as nearly 300 in other parts of the kingdom. A town soon began to grow up under the walls of the castle. Markets appear to have been held here as early as the middle of the twelfth, century ; and there are records of various privileges having been granted to the inhabitants by an Earl of Richmond about the same period. The Scots occasionally made a foray upon the country round Richmond, in their incursions into England, when the burgesses " gave a great Bumme of monie in like manner as at other times they had done, to have their countrie spared from fier and spoile." The dates of the various charters of this town are of no interest to the tourist. It has been uninterruptedly represented in Parliament ever since 1584. The population of the borough at the census of 1871 was 5364, and the inhabited houses 1104.282
richmond-the parish church.
The town, contains a good deal to interest the tourist. There are two churches of considerable antiquity, though the date of their erection cannot be exactly ascertained. An old grant speaks of the churches of Richmond being given to the Abbey of St. Mary at York, in the year 1137; but it is manifest that neither of the present edifices can lay claim to such antiquity.
The Parish Church, dedicated to St. Mary, probably belongs to the latter part of the thirteenth century, though there are Norman columns on the south side of the nave which are at least a hundred years older. The tower is the most recent part of the building, having been erected about the year 1390. The east window is a fine specimen of the Perpendicular style. The interior of this church is very interesting. Some beautiful stalls of carved wood, occupied by the members of the corporation, are deserving of observation. These stalls originally belonged to the church of St. Agatha's Abbey, whence they were removed at the Dissolution. Among the monuments is a curious one to tliu memory of Sir Timothy Hutton of Marske, who died in 1639, containing the effigies of himself and his wife and children. The quaint conceits by which the names of Sir Timothy and his lady are expressed render this monument somewhat interesting. On the floor of the chancel is a monumental brass, much worn, bearing the date 1506. At the west end of the nave, affixed to one of the sides of the tower, there is a monument to George Cuit, a landscape painter of some excellence, who was born near Richmond, and died in 1818. There are several sedilia in the chancel; and the Norman piers, already referred to, which have been preserved by the architect who rebuilt the church in the reign of Henry III., are worthy of examination. The church was extensively restored in 1860, the whole of the interior being renewed. The east window of the south aisle was filled with handsome stained glass in the same year in memory of Ottiwell Tomlin, late of Richmond. A very handsome new stone pulpit is worth notice.
In the churchyard may be observed the tomb of Christopher Clarkson, Esq., F.SA., author of a " History of Richmond." He died in 1833. There are numerous poetical inscriptions, but none worth quoting.
The churchyard of Richmond will possess to many tourists a touching interest from its associations with Herbert KnowlesRICHMOND—TOWER OP THE GREY FRIARS.	283
This gifted young poet, whose first effort Southey regarded as "brimful of power and promise," died in 1817, at the early age of nineteen. His " Lines written in the Church-yard of Richmond" are well known. We quote part of this poem:—
" Methinks it is good to be here : If thou wilt let us build—but for ■whom?
NorKlias nor Moses appear, Bnt the shadows of eve that encompass the gloom, Tho abode of the dead, and the place of the tomb
" Shall we build to Ambition ? Ah, no! Affrighted, he shrinketh away;
For see ! they would pin him below In a small narrow cave, and begirt with cold clay, To the meanest of reptiles a peer and a prey.
" Unto Sorrow ? The dead cannot grieve,— Not a sob nor a sigh meets mine ear,
Which compassion itself could relieve; Ah, sweetly they Blumber, nor hope, love, or fear ; Peace, peace is the watch-word, the only one here 1
" Unto Death, to whom monarchs must bow i Ah, no 1 for his empire is known,
And here there are trophies enow; Beneath—the cold dead, and around—the dark stone, Are the signs of a sceptre that none may disown.
"The first tabernacle to Hope we will build, And look for the sleepers around us to rise ;
The second to Faith, which ensures it fulfilled, And the third to the Lamb of the great sacrifice, Who bequeathed us them both when he rose to the skies."
Trinity Church is in the market-place. It is supposed that a church existed on this site before the Norman Conquest, and that the edifice was rebuilt about 1260. The present church, however, has little left even of what attracted the notice of Leland in its architectural style three hundred years ago. It was repaired in 1740 ; but about the same time the houses which so strangely and disgracefully encroach upon the sacred edifice were erected. The Consistory Court for the archdeaconry of Richmond is held in an apartment adjoining the north aisle.
The Tower of the Grey Friars stands at the. northern entrance into the town. The monastery of mendicant friars, of which this ruin is a part, was founded in 1257. This beauti-284
richmond-the grammar school.
ful tower, however, is manifestly not a part of the original building. It Is in the richest and lightest style of late Gothic architecture, and there is much probability in the conjecture that this was the commencement of a new friary church, which was never completed. At the Dissolution, the monks of this house were treated with great severity, some being put to death, and others imprisoned, for their opposition to the rapacious decrees of the royal " reformer." The tower is in good preservation ; it is lofty and well-proportioned, and the pointed arches from which it rises are of great height and beauty. The buttresses are corbelled out in a singular manner, and there are some small and unimportant remains of walls adjoining. A winding staircase conducts to the top of the tower.
The Priory of St. Martin is a quarter of a mile distant, near the railway station. It was founded about 1100. The remains are small, and, with perhaps the exception of the western door of the chapel, unimportant.
Of less importance are the remains of the Hospital of St. Nicholas, a short distance from Richmond, on the Catterick road. The hospital was founded before 1172. Its poor remains are incorporated with a modern house.
The Grammar School. A grammar school was erected at Richmond, in the time of Queen Elizabeth, with the funds obtained by the corporation from the seizure of the properties of various guilds, hospitals, chantries, etc. The revenues derived from this endowment, and subsequent bequests, amount now to about £300. The present handsome edifice, situated on the other side of the road from the parish church, was erected in 1849. It is dedicated to the memory of the Rev. James Tate, A.M., who was master of the school for thirty-seven years. " Mr. Tate of Richmond," as he was commonly known in the literary world, sent forth from this school many of the most distinguished men of his day. In 1833 his connection with the school ceased, he having been appointed to the stall of a canon residentiary in St. Paul's, London. He died in 1843. A Latin inscription to his memory is over the entrance of the porch.
Other public buildings are—the Town Hall, dissenting chapels, and schools. Richmond has an extensive corn-market, but otherwise its traffic is inconsiderable. The branch of railway, by which it is connected with the great central line, will perhaps give an impulse to its commerce.richmond castle.
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Richmond Castle. This fine old Norman fortress is on the south Bide of the town, on an eminence overlooking the Swale, which runs in a deep valley beneath. Between the castle and the river, and sixty feet above the latter, is a terrace, of modern formation, which affords an agreeable promenade. The only side on which this castle would have been easily approached by an enemy is the north, which is very little elevated above the town. This side is defended by the keep, the strongest part of the fortress.
The castle was founded by Alan Rufus, Earl of Bretagne and Richmond, in 1071. His succes&ors, Allan Niger and Stephen Fergant, made considerable additions to the original structure, and Conan, the fourth earl, built the great tower or keep in 1146. Richmond Castle does not occupy a place of any prominence in history. Its vast strength, indeed, caused it to be regarded as one of the great bulwarks of the north ; but its name is associated with no historical events of note, with the exception of the imprisonment here of William the Lion, king of Scotland, after his defeat at Alnwick, by Randolph de Glanville, in 1174. A curious rhyming chronicle in old Norman French, translated and published for the Surtees Society, gives an account of William's unsuccessful invasion. In this poem Henry II. of England is represented as anxiously inquiring, when the defection of one powerful baron after another is reported to him—" Is Randolph de Glanville in Richemunt 1" And when the messenger of Randolph comes to the king with news of the defeat of William, Henry impatiently and fearfully demands, " Has the King of Scots entered Richemunt 1" William was set at liberty on taking an oath of allegiance to the King of England.
The Keep, or Great Tower, will be first examined. This imposing structure is 100 feet high, and its walls are 11 feet thick. It remains almost in the condition in which it was when constructed by Earl Conan, more than seven hundred years ago. It is divided externally into regular compartments by very flat vertical buttresses and horizontal plain string courses, and is allowed to be as admirable in its proportions as it is remarkable for its massive strength. The keep is at present used as a store for the accoutrements of the militia. The different storeys are shewn by the person who keeps the gate. From the summit of the tower a magnificent view is obtained. York Minster, forty miles distant in a straight line, can be seen in clear weather.RICHMOND CASTLE.
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The antiquarian will not turn away from the keep till he has examined the massive octagonal column in the centre of the lower storey, from which spring circular groined arches to support the floor above.
VAULTS, KEEP OF RICHMOND CASTLE.
Leaving the keep, and turning to the left, the visitor next has his attention drawn to Robin Hood's Tower. It has borne this name immemorially, but tradition has not preserved the reason why it is so called. On its ground-floor is a small chapel, dedicated to St. Nicholas. A narrow loop-hole forms the " east window " of this interesting relic of the worship of early and comparatively simple times. The sill of the narrow window formed the altar. Two circular holes gave light to the stalls, the rude semicircular heads and sculptured pillars of which are well deserving of the notice of the antiquarian.
The next tower is called the Gold Hole, from the tradition that a quantity of treasure was found here. In the lowest apartment of this tower is a low arched doorway, said to be the entrance to a subterranean passage communicating with St. Martin's Priory, on the opposite bank.
The HaU of Scolland is in the south-east corner of the castle area. It derives its name from Scolland, Lord of Bedale, one of the noble feudatories who performed military service in the castle of their superior lords, the Earls of Richmond. This hall, which is 72 feet by 27, is of early Norman work. It was the state or banquet-hall, and was entered by a large semicircular doorway, on a higher level than the present entrance, which leads to a lower apartment. This hall displays more attention to ornament and comfort than any other part of the castle.
The remaining portions of these ruins do not require to be288 vicinity op richmond-ravensworth castle.
noticed here. The castle is the property of the Duke of Richmond. The area inclosed within its walls is about five acres.
Before turning away from this ancient fortress, it may be worth while to mention the fact that Richmond Castle is one of the places fixed upon by tradition as the scene of the enchanted sleep of King Arthur and his court. In a huge cave beneath this castle, Arthur and his followers lie asleep, awaiting the time when "England's extremity" will break the enchantment, and call them forth to deeds such as made their names illustrious of old, A legend is even told, to the effect that, once upon a time, a man, wandering about the castle, found access to the cave of the sleepers. He half-drew from its sheath the enchanted sword; but, getting frightened at the stir which he at once observed among the sleepers, he let the blade slip back to its place. As he fled, these words from a mysterious voice met his ear :—
" Potter, Potter Thomson 1 If thou had either drawn The sword, or blown that horn, Thou'd been the luckiest man That ever was born 1"
Richmond has much attractive scenery and numerous spots of antiquarian interest in its neighbourhood. Easby Abbey is distant only a mile (see page 101); and the Roman Cataractonium is three miles farther down the stream. The valley of the Swale above Richmond has much to attract the artist and the lover of nature (see Swaledale), while Leybum in Wensleydale can be reached by means of a high road, which affords good views, the distance being about 10 miles.
Ravensworth Castle, once the residence of the family of Fitz-Hugh, is five miles north-west of Richmond. A castle existed here before the Conquest; and it is thought that part of the present ruins belonged to the old Saxon fortress. The remains are small, and not of much importance. A small tower, which is the most interesting part of the ruins, has the following inscription in bold letters in high relief, each word on a separate stone:—xjj'c. irn's. ijj'i. frcH. foits. # origc. alpjja. t£ 00. (Christus Dominus Jhesus, via fons et origo, alpha et omega)
The Church of Kirkby Ravensworth is prominently situated on an eminence about a mile from the castle and the village. It was erected, in the end of the fourteenth century, on the site of a former structure, which is said to have dated from Saxon times. One of its aisles has been destroyed, the corbels of itsrievaulx abbey.
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arches, some of which are very curious, still remaining in the wall of the nave. The interior of the church is worth inspection. It contains an old monumental slab to the memory of Gerardus de Hornby, and a monument to Dr. Dakyn, an incumbent of this church, and founder of a hospital and grammar-school here, who died in 1556. The font is ancient, and the corbels of the aisle and of the roof of the tower are quaint and in good preservation.
&tebaulx ^fofresu
Rievaulx Abbey is two miles from Helmsley, whence it may be visited in the same excursion as Helmsley Castle and Dun-combe Park. It is one of the most beautiful ruins in Yorkshire, being alike admirable for its situation and its style of architecture.
The style of this monastery is the purest early English, with the exception of some remains of Norman work in the lower part of the west sides of the transept. The small round windows here may have been part of an earlier structure. With the exception of these, and some similar traces in the dormitory, the architecture is of singular purity throughout. Probably a finer example of the earliest English style is not to be found in the kingdom.
This abbey was founded in 1131 by Sir Walter L'Espec, who dedicated it to the blessed Virgin, and endowed it with the extensive tract of Bilsdale, the manor of Helmsley, and other possessions. Sir Walter L'Espec was also the founder of Kirk-ham Priory, in this county. The death of his son was an affliction from which he never recovered ;* and, having made Christ his heir, by devoting his property to religious purposes, the Norman warrior retired in his old age to Kievaulx Abbey, took the vows, and died a monk. He was interred in the chapter-house, March 8, 1153.
The principal remains are those of the church and refectory. The Church, instead of standing east and west, which is the usual position, approaches more nearly to north and south. This is evidently owing to the nature of the ground. The dimensions of the church have been as follows:—Length of choir, 144 feet; breadth, 63 ; length of transepts, 118; breadth of transepts, 33 ;
* See page 217, note.
U200
rievaulx abbey.
length of nave, 166 ; "breadth, of nave, 59. The views of the exterior from different points are much admired, and a minute examination of details will give no less pleasure. The south front has two fine rows of lancet windows, and is beautifully clothed with ivy. The wall of the choir has flying buttresses. The nave has probably been the oldest portion of the church, and of Norman construction, but it is entirely destroyed, only its foundations being now traceable. The choir and part of its aisles, the transept with its aisle, and the commencement of the tower, are the portions of the church which still remain. The transept is the oldest part, as may be seen from the windows already referred to. The arch opening from the transept into the choir is 75 feet high ; and the circumference of the pillars from which it rises is 30 feet. The aisles of the choir are divided from the centre by clustered columns, above which is a triforium arcade. The clerestory windows above are small lancet lights in pairs, each pair enclosed by one bold arch. The southern (what should have been the eastern.) end of the choir is lighted by two tiers of lancet windows, three and three. The architectural details of the clustered columns and arches are of extreme beauty, the mouldings, foliage, and other decorative sculpture, being for the most part as fresh as when they came from the hand of the workman. Between thirty and forty years ago, the choir and transepts were cleared of rubbish, when part of a tesselated pavement and some fragments of stained glass were discovered.
The Refectory, which has been a magnificent apartment, 125 feet long and 37 broad, is in a good state of preservation. It is lighted by beautiful lancet windows, and has a recess for a reader's pulpit, reached by a winding staircase, part of which yet remains.
There are the ruins of other monastic buildings of less importance. The dormitory, which is in a line west from the transept of the church, has been of great extent, but is now completely ruinous. A Norman doorway, leading into a square court, is also worth notice. The foundations, which can be traced far beyond the bounds of the present ruins, shew that this monastery has been an establishment of great extent.
On the bill above the abbey is a teirace, from which are obtained fine views of the ruin and neighbouring scenery. Here there are a Grecian temple and a pavilion, with paintings of classical subjects by an Italian artist.BIPON.
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The scenery of Bilsdale, above Bievaulx, possesses in some places features of grandeur. The view from the summit of the dale is very magnificent
A mountain road crosses the Hambleton Hills from Bievaulx to Byland Abbey, the descent being down the gorge of Wass. This road commands fine views.*
BIPON.
Hotels.—The Unicorn Hotel and Posting-House, The Crown, The Black Bull, The Royal Oak eto. Distances.
From Leeds, 29 miles; York, 23; Harrogate, 11; London, 208; Edinburgh, 19L
The old cathedral city of Bipon is situated in a fertile plain, at the junction of the small streams Skell and Laver with the Ure, which is here crossed by a handsome stone bridge of seventeen arches. The name is thought to be derived from the Latin ripa, on account of its position on the bank of the river. There can be no doubt that the place is of great antiquity. Mr. Wal-bran of Bipon, an accomplished antiquarian, is of opinion that there was a settlement of Brigantian Celts here, and that this was even their seat of government; the remains which have been found being such as, in his opinion, to establish the point A few Boman remains have been discovered in the neighbourhood; but there is nothing to indicate that they had any permanent settlement there. The Boman "Watling Street passes Bipon at a distance of three miles to the east. It is recorded that, about the year 660, Alfred, or Alchfrid, Bang of Deira, bestowed a piece of ground here upon Eata, Abbot of Melrose, for the erection of a monastery. The Scotch monks were expelled because they differed with the king on the computation of Easter ; and Alchfrid bestowed the monastery on a fraternity more subservient to the royal will. At the head of the monastery was Wilfrid, a man of extensive learning and piety, who was subsequently made Arch-
* This pathway will be pointed out by the attendant on the Rievaulx terrace, who will indicate two clumps of trees on the moorland horizon as a landmark. In the vicinity of the path, where it crosses a small enclosed moor abont two miles from Bievaulx, the remarkable plant Athyrium, JMx-fczmina, var. acrocladon, the most ramified of all the British lady-ferns, was discovered a few years ago by Mr. C. Monkman of Malton. This beautiful fern, of which only one plant is known, will be found figured in Moore's "Nature-printed British Ferns," Svo edition, and in Lowe's " New and Bare Ferns.u292
RIPON.
bishop of York. An imposing building erected by Wilfrid wat> destroyed "by the Danes in 860. A conical tumulus, called Ailcy Hill, on the east side of tlie town, is supposed to have been heaped over those who fell in the dreadful carnage that occurred about this time. The tumulus contains large quantities of human bones; and Saxon coins, have been found in it from time to time. Towards the close of the thirteenth century, Ripon was judged of sufficient importance to be represented in Parliament. About this time the manufacture of woollen cloth appears to have been carried on to a considerable extent. This trade, however, did not continue to thrive ; for we find Leland, who visited Ripon in the early part of the sixteenth century, saying—" But now idleness is sore incresed in the town, and clothe makeing almost decayed." Ripon suffered severely from the plague in 1534, and again in 1625. In 1640 the Scotch lords met here with the English commissioners. The house .where the negotiations took place, and the furniture of the apartment in which the commissioners met, were in existence within the memory of persons still alive. A skirmish occurred here, in 1643, between the Parliamentarians and Royalists. There are no events of importance in the subsequent history of Ripon.
The interest of Ripon lies entirely in the past, though it still continues to be represented by one member in the national councils. The population of the town in 18 71 amounted to 6805, showing an increase of only 633 persons since 1861 ; and the inhabited houses 1406. Its very manufactures are matters of antiquity. The woollen-cloth trade has long ceased, and the Ripon spurs, once excellent to a proverb,* are no longer manufactured. But, though undistinguished for commercial activity, Ripon will continue to have attractions for those who admire noble architecture and beautiful natural scenery. The tourist who wishes to examine the Cathedral of Ripon and the Abbey of Fountains,
* " ' As true Bteel as Ripon rowels.' It is said of trusty persons, men of metal, faithful in their employments. Spurs are a principal part of knightly hatchments; yea, a poet observes—
' The lands that over Ouse to Berwick forth do hear Have for their blazon had the snaffle, spur, and spear.'
Indeed, the best spurs of England are made at Ripon, a famous town in this county, whose rowels may be enforced to strike through a shilling, and will break sooner than bow. However, the horses in this county are generally so good, they prevent the spurs, or answer unto them, a good sign of thrifty metal for continuance."— Fuller's Worthies, voL iii p. 888.ripon minster-the exteriok.
293
and to explore the beauties of Wensleydale, and other parts of the adjacent country, cannot find more convenient head-quarters than this old town.
Bipon affords the title of Marquis to the Robinson family.
The Cathedral. Of the early structures erected by Eata and Wilfrid there are no remains. The present cathedral has generally been ascribed to Archbishop Thurstan ; but Mr. Wal-bran has conclusively shewn that it owes its erection to the liberality and piety of Archbishop Roger, who devoted £1000 (" mille libras veteris monetae") to the purpose. Archbishop Roger died in 1181. In 1284 and 1287 money was raised, in furtherance of the works of the church, by letters of indulgence. On the occasion of an incursion of the Scots in 1319, considerable damage was done to the building, the roof, screens, stalls, and other wood-work being consumed. Additions and changes were made at many different periods. The great spire fell down in 1660, demolishing the roof of the chancel, which was shortly afterwards restored. In 1664, to obviate a similar catastrophe, the spires which surmounted the two western towers were removed. Some alterations and repairs were made in 1829 ; and at intervals, since that date, a good deal has been done to beautify the minster, both externally and internally. In 1836 the Bishopric of Ripon was established, and C. T. Longley, D.D., formerly head master of Harrow School, consecrated first bishop.
It has been already stated that the present building was originally raised by Archbishop Roger. The cathedral, as it now stands, is only an amplification of his original plan, though much of it has been rebuilt. The different parts of this edifice afford materials for a study of various styles of architecture. Early English, transition Norman, perpendicular, and decorated, may all be seen ; and there are even some remains of Saxon. The persons who have charge of the building, and offer their services to visitors, will point out the varying styles to the tourist who is not acquainted with these details.
Coming now to an examination of the exterior of the Cathedral, the West Front, approached by Kirkgate, is a lofty and imposing facade. It consists of a gabled compartment, 103 feet high, and 43 feet wide, flanked by two massive square towers of somewhat greater altitude. This front was erected nearly a century after the death of Archbishop Roger by some unknown benefactcxr, and is regarded as one of the finest specimens of early204
BIPON MINSTER-THE EXTERIOR.
English La the kingdom. The entrance on thia front is by three deeply-recessed doorways in the central compartment. Above the doorways are two tiers of five lancet windows each, restored to their original simplicity in 1864, when this front was repaired. In the pediment above are three lancet lights. The towers are divided into three storeys, pierced with lancet lights. They are surmounted by a battlement and pinnacles, added in 1797, as the best substitute for the original octagonal spires of timber and lead which had to be removed in 1664. The south tower contains a fine peal of bells.
The Nave is divided into six bays, with windows in the Perpendicular style. The south side seems to be somewhat earlier than the north. The Transepts are extremely interesting, being (with the exception of a small portion of the south transept) precisely as built by Archbishop Roger. The windows, which are almost semicircular, are in two tiers, the space between them being occupied by the triforium in the interior. A window of three lights, similarly shaped, occupies the pediment of each transept. There is a doorway in both transepts. " This doorway," says Mr. Walbran, " is very remarkable, having a plain trefoil head rising from a corbel-like projection, placed at the impost of the soffit, and is flanked by three receding shafts, whose elegantly foliated capitals assimilate with this Romanesque trefoil, and support an archevolt of bold but undecorated mouldings." The Choir is divided into six bays. The three next the transept, on the north side, are the work of Archbishop Roger, and perhaps the beet specimen of it remaining. The other two bays are in the Decorated style, as are also the windows of this side of the choir. The east end is in the same style. Its great window of seven lights, 51 feet high aud 35 wide, is a magnificent example of this style in its early type. Attached to the south aisle of the choir is a building, now used as a Vestry and Chapter Mouse, by eome supposed to be the original church of Wilfrid, or, at all events, that erected by "Odo, Archbishop of Cantewarbyri," who, according to Leland, " had pitie on the desolation of Ripon Chirch, and began, or causid a new work to be edified wher the minstre now is," about the year 950. The building, however,, seems rather to be Norman than Saxon, and is probably part of a church erected shortly after the Conquest.
The best general perspective of the interior of the cathedral in obtained on entering at the western door. The entire lengthRIPON MINSTER—THE INTERIOR.
295
of the interior is 270 feet—the nave being 171 feet, and the choir 99. The other interior dimensions are as follows :— Breadth of nave and aisles, 87 feet; breadth of choir, 67 ; height of nave, 88 ; height of choir 79 ; length of transept, 132 ; breadth, 36 ; length of chapter house, 34$ ; of vestry, 28 ; breadth of both, 18£.
The Nave, as originally built, was without the side aisles, which now add so much to its breadth and beauty. Archbishop Roger's plan, however, permitted, and probably was meant to provide for, the addition of aisles to the nave ; as the western towers projected beyond the line of the original nave, defining a space on either side of it, which could be fitly and beautifully rendered available for making the church perfectly complete in this respect. The aisles are open to the roof, and are separated from the nave by tall and graceful pillars. In the west end of the south aisle is the font. It is octagonal in shape and formed of blue marble. Near it is an altar-tomb, on the slab of which is a sculpture in low relief, representing a man and a lion in a grove of trees, the lion retreating with his tail between his legs, and the man on his knees, probably returning thanks for his deliverance. The inscription is illegible. On the walls and floors of the aisles are numerous monumental inscriptions .of no general interest.
The Centre Tower, originally supported on four lofty and beautiful circular arches, has still two of these remaining, the others having been damaged by lightning, and replaced by pointed arches in 1450. Dean Waddilove remarks, that " the antiquarian, accustomed to contemplate the massive pillars and heavy arcades of the Saxon or Norman churches, views with wonder and delight a lofty arch of great expansion and delicate workmanship, that seems to unite the classic beauties of the Grecian architecture with the airy lightness of the Gothic. These arches are 22 feet broad in the span, 33 feet high to the crown of the arch, on a column of 26 feet, and are formed with a slight moulding of not more than 5 feet in thickness."
The Transepts deserve a careful examination, as they exhibit ecclesiastical architecture in its transition period between the round and pointed styles. In the transepts are several monuments. An aisle of the north transept contains the Markenfield Chapel, so called from its having been formerly the burial-place of the Markenfields of Markenfield, near this city. Here there is a fine296
RIPON MINSTER-THE INTERIOR.
altar-tomb to the memory of Sir Thomas Markenfield, a warrior of the time of Richard II., and Dionisia, his lady. A noble altar-tomb, with the effigies of another Sir Thomas and his lady, has been removed from this chapel, and placed without the rails. Since the seventeenth century, the chapel has been appropriated to the Blackets of Newby-on-Ure, as a burial-place. The tomb of Sir Edward Blacket, who died in 1718, is marked by a monument bearing his effigy between those of two of his wives, who stand mourning over him. In this transept, adjoining the entrance to the north aisle of the choir, is an old stone pulpit. The south transept contains a small but chaste monument, consisting of a bust by Nollekens on a tripod, to the memory of W. Weddell, Esq. of Newby. Here, in the Mallorie chapel, are interred some men of note of the Mallorie family.
The Choir is entered by a doorway through a stone screen finely carved in the perpendicular style, usual in such works. The screen is 19 feet high. Above it is a good organ. The great east window naturally arrests attention on the visitor entering the choir. Its character and dimensions have already been stated in the survey of the exterior. The stained glass with which this window was originally filled, was destroyed by the Parliamentarian soldiers in 1643. Such fragments as escaped their fury are preserved in a window of the nave near the font. The window was filled with the stained glass which now adorns it in 1854, at a cost of £1000. The chief figures are the size of life, and the general subject the commissioning and labours of the apostles. A fillet at the foot of the window bears the inscription : " This window was erected in commemoration of the creation of the see of Ripon, Anno Domini 1836, C. T. Longley, D.D., first Bishop elect." There are in the choir some fine stalls in carved wood-work, and a handsome modern throne for the bishop. The altar-screen was erected in 1832. Three sedilia, a lavatory, and a piscina, are worthy of notice.
The Chapter-House and Vestry.—The building used as a chapter-house and vestry, adjoining the south aisle of the choir, is, as we have already remarked, supposed by some antiquaries to be the original church of Wilfrid—an opinion evidently held by the door-keepers, who will draw the tourist's attention to the " great east window," in dimensions the size of a pigeon-hole, and will indicate other details on an equally diminutive scale. Mr. Walbran is of opinion, however, that " it is the south aisle of aRIPON MINSTER—THE INTERIOR.
297
collegiate church, which the devastation that ensued in these parts after the year 1069 demanded from Thomas, Archbishop of York, who was lord of Ripon at the time when the Domesday survey was made, and died here on the 18th of November 1100., The rest of that structure was doubtless destroyed by Archbishop Roger when he commenced his ' Basilica,' this portion being retained as convenient for the chapter-house and sacristy; the arcade by which it joined its original structure having been closed and flanked by the wall of the choir." * Above the chaptet-house is the library, founded in 1624.
St. Wilfrid's Needle is a crypt under the central tower. It is entered from the nave by a narrow passage, 45 feet in length, and consists of a vaulted cell, 9j feet high, 7 feet 9 inches wide, and 11 feet long. An opening in the north side of the cell, 13 inches by 18, is called "The Needle." The purpose for which this crypt and the singular opening were intended, cannot be now certainly ascertained. There is a popular tradition to the effect that "The Needle" was in former times used ad a test of female chastity. " They pricked their credits who could not thread the needle," is the quaint remark of Fuller, in reference to this supposed use of the opening. Other explanations given of this vault make it a confessional, or a place of penance, or a sepulchre for the host on Good Friday.
The Bone House deserves a word of notice before concluding the survey of the cathedral. Situate under the chapter-house, it is entered from the churchyard. The floor on which the visitor treads rests upon a layer of human bones, said to be four feet deep. Formerly the bones were built up to a thickness of six feet round the walls, and some singular and interesting specimens were arranged on a bench, and used to form the text for various anatomical observations on the part of the guide. Some years ago, however (in 1865), they were carefully collected and buried in the churchyard.
There are in Ripon several other public buildings deserving to be mentioned.
The Market Place is a fine and spacious square. In the
* Walbran's " Ripon, Harrogate, Fountaine Abbey," etc., page 49. t At 9 p.m. it has been the custom here to sound a horn three times. The old ham used for 90 years is shown at the Crown Inn.298
ripon--public buildings-vicinity.
centre of it stands the Market Cross, an obelisk, 90 feet high, erected in 1781 at the expense of William Aislabie, Esq. of Studley, who represented the "borough of Ripon in Parliament for sixty years. Beside the Cross there is a Russian gun, captured at Sevastopol, with an inscription in front of it giving the names of natives of Ripon and its neighbourhood who served in the Crimean war. The principal building in the Market Place is the Town Hall, a plain but tasteful building, with an Ionic front. It waa built in 1801, from a design by Wyatt, at the expense of Mrs. Allanson of Studley, a full-length portrait of whom adorns the Assembly Room, in the upper front storey.
Trinity Church was built and endowed in 1826, at an expense of £13,000, by the Rev. E. Kilvington, A.M., with funds left at his disposal for Christian purposes by a relative. It is a plain but elegant structure, consisting of nave, transepts, and chancel. In the chancel there is a bust of the founder, with an inscription to his memory.
Among the dissenting places of worship there are a new Roman Catholic Chapel, a very successful example of the French style, and a neat brick Wesleyan Chapel of the " New Connection."
There are several hospitals and charities, and a Free Grammar School, founded in 1546 by Edward YI.—a seminary in which Matthew Hutton, Archbishop of Canterbury, Beilby Por-teous, Bishop of London, Archdeacon Thomas Balguy, and other eminent men, have been educated.
The Palace of the Bishop of Ripon, a fine building in the Tudor style, erected in 1841, is about a mile from the town.
From Ripon many localities of much interest to the tourist are readily accessible. Fountains Abbey, of which a lengthened description is given in a previous part of this work, is within easy walking distance. Harrogate, Knaresborough, York, etc., can be rapidly reached by rail; as can also Thirsk, Northallerton, Leyburn, and Richmond. In this part of our work, however, we have only to notice those places which, not having received a separate description elsewhere, must geographically be referred to the neighbourhood of Ripon.
Hackpall is about seven miles distant from Ripon, and three from either Tanfield (which has an old hall of the Marmions, on interesting church, and a handsome bridge over the Ure) orvicinity of arpon—hackfall—swinton-masham. 299
Masham.* Theje pleasant grounds, pronounced by Pennant one of the most picturesque scenes in the north of England, are entered by a gate a little beyond the village of Grewelthorpe. Though many of the features of the glen are of an artificial character, there is enough of genuine natural beauty in this umbrageous retreat to please the most cultivated taste. The artificial ruins and other buildings in different positions are as respectable as such erections can be expected to be. In the bottom of the dell is a grotto, called Fisher's Hall, composed of petrifactions, or rather incrustations, collected from the streams in the grounds. Mowbray Castle, as a ruined tower is called, is well placed. From Mowbray Point, the highest situation in the grounds, an extensive and beautiful view is obtained. The view comprehends York Minster (30 miles distant), and a vast expanse of country, stretching northward almost to the Tees. The tourist may pause here for a moment to mark the more prominent features in the scene before him. Tanfield Church, near at hand, is the burial-place of the Marmions and Fitzhughs. In the distance, eastward, are the Hambleton Hills, with the town of Tliirsk at their foot. To the left is Northallerton, with its memories of the Battle of the Standard; and, away far beyond, is the summit of Roseberry Topping. Gilpin remarks of the view obtained from this point, —" Here nature hath wrought with her broadest pencil ; the parts are ample ; the composition perfectly correct ; I scarcely remember in any other place an extensive view so full of beauties and so free from faults."
Swinton, the seat of Mrs. Danby Harcourt, a handsome castellated building on the site of the old residence of the Danbys, will be passed on the left on the way from Hackfall to Masham. The park is magnificently wooded, and the gardens and grounds finely laid out. The mansion contains a beautiful geological collection made by the late Mr. Danby, and a considerable number of valuable paintings by the old masters.
Masham (Inns: George and Dragon, Bay Horse, King's Head). A pleasant walk of about one mile from Swinton, or from Hackfall, will bring the tourist to the village of Masham, which is ten miles from Ripon, and six from Bedale. The only edifice which will interest the tourist in this picturesque town is the Church. This fine structure possesses a beautiful spire, which
* Daring the summer a coach runs daily between Ripon and Middleham, passing through Tanfield and Masham.300
VICINITY OF EIPON—MAS HAM.
forms a very prominent object in a distant view of the town. Ecclesiologists will admire the Norman doorway at the west end. The principal monument is that of Sir Marmaduke Wyvill in the interior. In the churchyard there is a singular sculptured cylindrical stone.
Masham* gave a title to a branch of the family of Scroop. Henry, Lord Scroop, the friend and counsellor of Henry V., who was executed for treason in 1415, is the most celebrated member of this branch of the family. Shakspere who has immortalized his offence and his fate in " King Henry V.," represents the King as reproaching him thus, on this occasion :—
" What shall 1 say to thee, Lord Scroop? thou cruel, Ingrateful, savage, and inhuman creature I Thou, that didst bear the key of all my counsels, That knew'st the very bottom of my soul, That almost might'st have coined me into gold, Wouldst thou have practised on me for thy use? May it be possible, that foreign hire Could out of thee extract one spark of evil, That might annoy my finger? 'Tis so strange, That, though the truth of it stands off as gross As black from white, my eye will scarcely see it.
O, how hast thou with jealousy infected
The Bweetness of affiance I Shew men dutiful?
Why, so didst thou: seem they gTave and learned?
Why, so didst thou: come they of noble family ?
Why, so didst thou: seem they religious ?
Why, so didst thou: or, are they spare in diet;
Free from gross passion, or of mirth or anger;
Constant in spirit, not swerving with the blood
Garnished and decked in modest complement;
Not working with the eye, without the ear,
And, but in purged judgment, trusting neither?
Such, and so finely bolted, didst thou seem.
And thus thy fall hath left n kind of blot,
To maTk the full-fraught man, and best endued,
With some suspicion. I will weep for thee;
For this revolt of thine, methinks, is like
Another fall of man."—King Henry V., Act ii, Scenc 2.
* The late William Jackson (Masham), the eminent Yorkshire composer, was a native of this village. His principal productions are the Oratorios of " The Deliverance of Israel from Babylon," and "Isaiah," "The 103rd Psalm," "The Year,' some Masses, and several minor piocce.rokeby.
303
ROKEBY And its Neighbourhood.
Rokeby, the seat of Mr. Morritt, classic as the resort of Mason and the theme of Sir Walter Scott, is within an easy and very pleasant walk of Barnard Castle, an interesting town on the Durham side of the Tees, 16 miles from Darlington, and 30 from Northallerton. At a distance of rather less than two miles from the town the tourist reaches the Abbey Bridge, by which he crosses the Tees and enters Yorkshire. The views up and down the stream from this bridge are exceedingly beautiful. The channel of the Tees is here cut through the solid rock, and the sound of its waters, as they toil along their confined course, adds much to the charm of the scene. The vista down the stream is particularly fine. The banks are thickly clothed with trees, and there is just enough of space, at the point in the far perspective where the two lines of foliage draw together, for a peep of Rokeby Hall. The vista up the stream is less regular, but more picturesque. It affords a charming glimpse of Athelstan Abbey* The Abbey Bridge is a very fine one, and its battlemented ledge is beautifully clothed with ivy.t Proceeding onwards for a mile, the Morritt Arms Inn is reached, where guides to conduct the tourist over the grounds may be obtained. The grounds are shown every day in the week except Sunday.
The Manor of Rokeby was in the possession of a family of that name from the Conquest to the time of Charles L, when the last Lord Rokeby, who had embraced the cause of the unfortunate monarch, was compelled, by fines and confiscations, to sell the estate. It was a Baron of Rokeby who finally defeated the insurrection of the Earl of Northumberland in the time of Henry IV. The estate was purchased in the last century by Mr. Morritfs father, the friend of Sir Walter Scott. The mansion
* Athelstan Abbey is described on pp. 44, 45. A visit to this interesting ruin should be combined -with that to Rokeby. The tourist may, instead of crossing by the Abbey Bridge, enter Yorkshire by the bridge at Barnard Castle, and descend the river on the Yorkshire side, passing the Abbey on his way to Rokeby. Athelstan Abbey is about half a mile above the Abbey Bridge.
t From the Abbey Bridge a beautiful walk is laid out by the river side to the meeting of the Greta and the Tees.302
ROKEBY-SCOTT'S DESCRIPTION OP THE GLEN.
is modern, but occupies the site of the ancient manor-house, which was burned down by the Scots after the battle of Bannock-burn. The mansion is not shewn to the public.
The most delightful part of the grounds is the romantic glen which Scott has described with such exquisite truth and beauty. Entering upon the footpath which lies through this ravine, and ever and anon pausing to admire some picturesque glimpse of the restless Greta, or some new and beautiful combination presented by the noble trees, with their varying hues of green, the tourist will not need any other description of the scenes amid which he lingers, than that which is given by the author of " Bokeby:"—
" The open vale Is soon passed o'er, Rokeby, though nigh, is Been no more; Sinking mid Greta's thickets deep, A mid and darker course they keep, A stern and lone, yet lovely road, As e'er the foot of minstrel trode I Broad shadows o'er their passage fell, Deeper and narrower grew the dell; It seem'd some mountain rent and riven, A channel for the stream had given, So high the cliffe of limestone grey Hung beetling o'er the torrent's way, Yielding, along their ragged base, A flinty footpath's niggard space, Where he who winds 'twixt rock and wave, May hear the headlong torrent rave, And like a steed in frantic fit. That flings the froth from curb and bit, May view her chafe her waves to spray, O'er every rock that bars her way, Till foam-globes on her eddies ride. Thick as the schemes of human pride That down life's current drive f rnavn. As frail, as frothy, and as vain I
The cliffs, that rear their haughty head High o'er the river's darksome bed, Were now all naked, wild, and grey, Now waving all with greenwood spray; Here trees to every crevice clung, And o'er the dell their branches hung; And there, all splinter'd and uneven, The shiver'd rocks ascend to heaven; Oft, too, the ivy swathed their breast, And wreathed its garland round their crest, Or from the spires bade loosely flaro Its tendrils in the middle air,BOKEBY-MORTHAM TOWER.
303
As pennons wont to wave of old O'or the high feast of baron bold, When revell'd loud the feudal rout, And the arch'd halls returned their shout: Such and more wild is Greta's roar, And such the echoes from her shore, And so the ivied banners gleam, Waved wildly o'er the brawling stream."
Seats are placed in judicious positions in the course of this romantic path. That part of the dell where the rocks recede and give room for
" A dismal grove of sable yew. With whose sad tints were mingled seen The blighted fir's sepulchral green "—
is the spot where the poet represents Bertram Risingham as making his perilous pursuit of the mysterious figure which has been dogging his footsteps. Proceeding down the ravine, the tourist presently reaches a picturesque bridge and gatehouse, and leaves the wood to view the junction of the Greta and the Tees, a scene that Turner has made classic for all time to come. Huge blocks of stone lie in the channel of the stream here, in picturesque confusion. The united streams flow onwards through a more open valley, the left side of which, while within sight, is a long and precipitous ridge, finely wooded.
Scott thus describes the union of Greta and Tees :—
" 'Twas a fair scene I the sunbeam lay On battled tower and portal grey, And from the grassy slope he sees The Greta flow to meet the Tees, Where, issuing from her darksome bed, Bhe caught the morning's eastern red, And through the softening vale below Boiled her bright waves in rosy glow, All blushing to her bridal bed, Like some shy maid in convent bred, While linnet, lark, and blackbird gay, Sing forth her nuptial roundelay."
Mortham Tower stands on the ridge of the bill about a quarter of a mile from the scene last described. This small fortress, now converted into a farm-house, was erected by Lord Rokeby after the destruction of his original residence by the Scots in 1314. It continued to be used by the family as a residence for some time after the sale of the estate. A walled enclosure for collecting cattle within at night—a veiy necessary precaution in304
hokeby-greta bridge.
the times of border raids—may still be seen here. Sir Walter Scott remarks, regarding Mortham Tower—" The battlements of the tower itself are singularly elegant, the architect having broken them at regular intervals into different heights; while those at the corners of the tower project into octangular turrets. They are also from space to space covered with stones laid across them, as in modern embrasures, the whole forming an uncommon and beautiful effect. The surrounding buildings are of a less happy form, being pointed into high and steep roofs."
At a short distance, between two great witch elms, is the tomb beside which Scott has laid the scene of the unequal strife between Bertram and Wilfred, and the timely intervention of Philip of Mortham to save the latter from destruction. The tomb is of grey marble. It was removed within the memory of the last generation, and is supposed by Sir Walter Scott to have belonged to the Fitz-Hughs. It is thus described by the poet:—
" South of the gate an arrow flight, Two mighty elms their limbs unite, As if a canopy to spread O'er the lone dwelling of the dead; For their huge boughs in arches bent Above a massive monument, Carved o'er in ancient Gothic wise With many a scutcheon and device."
Greta Bridge has its claims on the interest of the touriat after he has concluded his survey of the classic domain of Rokeby. Here there is a small but very distinctly marked Roman camp. It is situated in the field close behind the " Morritt Arms," the inn already mentioned. The walls of this camp have been faced with stone, and backed up with pebbles and rubbish ; and its area has been about four acres. A branch of the great Roman road, which crosses the Swale at Catterick Bridge, and the Tees at Pierse Bridge, goes close past this station, and proceeds due west to the more important camps of Bowes and Rey Cross. Various remains of the Romans have been found here and in the neighbourhood. This camp does not pass unnoticed by Sir Walter Scott:—
" There, as his eye glanced o'er the mound, Raised by that legion long renowned, Whose votive shrine asserts their claim Of pious, faithful, conquering fame,*
* The poet refers to an inscription found here—" leg. vi. vic. p. f. f.," which haa been rendered Legio Sexta, Victrix, Pia, Fortis, Fidelia.ROKEBY-BRIGNALL AND SCARGILL-ROTHERHAM. 305
' Stern Bona of war 1' sad Wilfred sighed, ' Behold the boast of Roman pride 1 What now of all your toils are known 1 A grassy trench, a broken stone I'"
Ere leaving the classic Greta, the admirer of Scott may spare a little time for a visit to " Brignall Banks " and Scargill Woods. The path by the stream is particularly pleasing. Brignall old church, the mill, slate-quarries, and Scargill Cliff, are scenes having poetical associations to add to the interest inspired by their beauty. The reader of " Rokeby" may recollect the fine song beginning—
" O Brignall banks are wild and fair, And Greta woods are green."
Scargill CM is represented as the retreat of Guy Denzil and his band of ruffians.
" He saw, appearing to the air, A little entrance low and square, Like opening cell of hermit lone, Dark winding through the living stone; Here entered Denzil, Bertram here."
ROTHERHAM.
Hotels.—The Royal, The Crown, The Prince of Wales.
Prom Sheffield, 4 miles.
Rotherham is situated in a valley, near the confluence of the Rother and Don. There are no facts of importance in its ancient history. Before the Reformation there was a college here, founded by Thomas Scott, usually called Thomas of Rotherham, Archbishop of York, who died in 1500. The dissolution of this college by Heniy VIII. was a serious blow, which caused a declension both in business and wealth.
Though not a handsomely-built town, Rotherham is by no means destitute of attraction. Its nearness to Sheffield makes it a suburb of that great town, and consequently lessens its individual importance. At the census of 1871 the population was 15,428, and the inhabited houses 3125, shewing an increase of 333.4 since the census of 1861. The trade and manufactures
x306
rotherham church.
are considerable. It exports coal and lime in large quantities ; and its ironworks give employment to a great number of persons. The principal iron-foundries are those of Messrs. Walker, at Masborough, on the other side of the river. Mr. Samuel Walker, the founder of these celebrated works, was born in 1716, and died in 1782. He was an intimate friend of the poet Mason, who wrote the inscription on a monument to his memory in the Wesleyan chapel. The iron bridge of Sunderland, and that of Southwark, in the metropolis, were cast in these foundries. Large cannon, and almost every kind of cast-iron articles, are manufactured here.
The Church of Rotherham is the chief attraction to the general tourist. Its spire, which is particularly handsome and lofty, rises from a square tower, adorned with pointed windows, and terminating with battlement and crocketed pinnacles. The church consists of nave, aisles, transepts, and chancel, with north and south chapels adjoining, the tower being at the intersection. There are probably few who, on seeing this church, will be inclined to dispute the opinion of the late Mr. Hickman, that it is " one of the finest Perpendicular churches in the north." He adds, " Its execution is excellent, and the design is in every part very rich ; it is also in very good preservation." Burton refers this church to the reign of Edward IV., but it is possible that it may have been built somewhat earlier.
On the Bouth side of the nave there is an ornamented porch, with double buttresses, terminating in pinnacles at its angles. The windows are of four lights, with fine tracery. They are surmounted by crocketed weather cornices, with grotesque figures. The large south window of the transept is of six lights, and similar in style to those of the nave. Passing round to the chancel, the great east window is of seven lights, with a transom. The north side of the church is similar to its south side. The west window is large and tasteful.
The interior is spacious and interesting. The pointed arches, which separate the nave from the aisles, rest on columns with curious foliated capitals. There is an oak pulpit, probably of the 17th century, as well as a beautiful screen (now considerably injured), and some old stalls, of much earlier date. In the south wall of the chancel there are three Bedilia, with pointed canopies. Near them is a small piscina, and in the opposite wall there is asai/tburn-by-the-sea.
307
square ambrv. There are several monuments ; among them, an ancient monumental brass, to the memory of " Robaxte Swifte," and his wife and children, dated 1539 ; the remains of two altar-tombs ; and a marble tablet with a basso-relievo by Flaxman. The church is well fitted up, and possesses a good organ. In the churchyard there is an old Saxon Font, originally placed in the church.
The Independent College, for the education of ministers for Congregational churches, is situated on a gentle eminence, half-a-mile from the town. It was opened in the year 1795.
At Masborough, in 1781, was born Ebenezer Elliott, the celebrated " Corn Law Rhymer." He died on the ] st of December 1849, at Argilt Hill, near Barnsley.
Places of interest in this neighbourhood are noticed under the vicinity of Sheffield.
Sai/taire.—In the vicinity of Bradford (p. 83).
SALTBURN - BY - THE - SEA-
Hotels— ®fje Zetland. Bed 2s. to 3s. 6d.; sitting-room 3s. to 7s. Cd.; drawing-room and bedroom from 8s. to 10s.; breakfast, 2s.; dinner, 2s. 6d. to 4s. 6cL Board 10s. 6d. per day. Table d'HOte at 6.30. Attendance Is. 6d. per day. Other hotels—The Alexandra and The Queen. Lodgings may be obtaired in the town.
This new sea-side watering-place is situated in the North Riding of Yorkshire, 4 miles (by rail) from Redcar and 255 from London. It forma the eastern termination of the Stockton and Darlington railway, or " Quaker's line" as it has been called, ■which traverses what is popularly named "the black country" of Teesdale. This district embraces the mineral treasures of the Cleveland hills, and is covered with blast-furnaces and extensive iron-yards. The tourist must not be deterred by the smoke and ooot through which he has to pass to reach Saltburn, and any disagreeable feeling so occasioned will vanish so soon as he alights at the neat and elegant station at Saltburn, where, by means of a covered platform, he walks in comfort to the Zetland HoteL
It is said that the creation of Saltburn-by-the-Sea originated with Mr. Henry Pease, late M.P. for South Durham. This was in the year 1860, about which time the directors of the Stockton308
8ALTBURN-BY-THE-SEA,
and Darlington railway connected it by a branch line with Red-car. In 1861 the foundation of the Zetland Hotel was laid by the Earl of Zetland, and it was completed in 1863, at a cost of £30,000, by the Stockton and Darlington Railway Company. It contains upwards of 120 apartments. Mr. W. Peachey of Darlington, architect to the railway company, has the credit of the design of this elegant building—the comforts and luxuries afforded by which have contributed in no small degree to the prosperity of the place. The 6ame may be said of the other hotel, "The Alexandra." Those who have visited some of the older watering-places have often been struck by the disadvantages they labour under from the want of a good original ground-plan. In the case of Saltburn this has been provided for by Mr. George Dickenson, architect, of Darlington, according to whose building-plan the streets are being constructed. Besides the hotels, there are numerous private residences and lodging-houses, all built of that clean-looking fire-brick which imparts so cheerful an aspect to the buildings. A handsome church has been lately erected (the church of Emmanuel), besides two chapels, a Wesleyan and a Primitive Methodist. Saltburn stands 150 feet above the level of the sea, and has a fine northern exposure overlooking the wide expanse of the German Ocean. The magnificent sands of the bay extend for about 8 miles along the coast, and are firm and dry, affording a fine area for wholesome recreation, and every facility for bathing—bathing-machines being provided. The new pier, which is 20 feet wide, stretches a distance of 1500 feet into the sea, and serves both as a landing for steamers and a delightful promenade, from which a fine view of the bay and cliffs is enjoyed. These cliffs to the eastward are called Huntcliff, and rise to the height of 360 feet. The high ground on which Saltburn is built is broken on the east side by a very pretty glen, down which flows the Skelton Beck. Just before this glen opens out towards the sea it is spanned by an elegant iron-girder bridge of light and beautiful design, 136 feet in height, 25 feet broad, and 660 feet in length. From this bridge a fine prospect is obtained on the one side over the German Ocean, while on the other there is a delightful view of the romantic ravine, the Cleveland hills, and the beautiful woodland scenery around them. This glen, over which the bridge is carried, is laid out in walks, along which visitors are allowed to rambleBALTBURN-BY-THE-SEA.
309
through the woods as far as Marske Mill. It also contains a chalybeate mineral well.
It is important to know that the drinking-water is of good quality, and the drainage well constructed.
Excursions may be made from Saltburn to the village of Skinningrove, 4 miles eastward; the ruins of Kilton Castle, 3 miles (by Brotton); Guisborough Priory, 6 miles ; Liverton, 6 miles ; Redcar and Coatham, 4 miles. Coatham church, in the Decorated style, is well worthy of examination. The Skinningrove excursion may be extended to Staithes, a large and interesting fishing-village of some 1800 inhabitants, which derives renown from its association with the name of Captain Cook, who spent part of his youth here as an apprentice to a grocer. This celebrated navigator was a Yorkshire man, having been born at Marton in Cleveland (see page 150) in the year 1728.
The Cleveland pack of foxhounds is kept in the neighbour* hood of Saltburn, and hunts twice a-week during the -season.
SCARBOROUGH.
Hotels.—The Grand Hotel, one of the largest in England, occupies the ground on which the Old Cliff Cottages stood, and has a private garden, with terraces and walks of more than 5000 yards, opening on the sands in the front of the bathing machines. The Crown, South Cliff; The Boyal, St. Nicholas's Cliff; The Pavilion, Westborough; Prince of Wales, Esplanade; Cambridge, South Cliff; Queen and Alexandra, Queen's Parade; Bar and George, Newborough; Bull, Brunswick, Railway, and Victoria, Westborough; Castle and Talbot, Queen Street; Star, King Street; Bell, Bland's Cliff.
Temperance Hotels.— Adelphi, Broadway, and Jackson's in Westborough; Waverley and Vicher's in Eastboroughi
Boakdinq-Houses. —Swift's, Blenheim Terrace; Laughton's, Valley Bridge; Edward's, the Crescent; Wether all'a, Queen's Parade.
Private Lodgings can be had in all parts of the town.
Distances.
From Malton, 21 miles; Bridlington, 23; Tork, 40; Hull, 63}; Leeds, 66;
Manchester, 108 ; Liverpool, 140 ; Birmingham, 164; London, 227 ; Glasgow, 256.
Scarborough well deserves the title of " Queen of English
Watering-Places." Along with the combined attractions of
mineral waters of acknowledged virtue, and the finest beach inSCARBOROUGH—HISTORY OF THE TOWN.
311
the kingdom for sea-bathing, it has, in its picturesque situation, its noble bay, which has been compared to that of Naples, the beautiful coast scenery within easy reach, and the charming inland excursions that may be taken in different directions, all array of advantages such as are probably unsurpassed by those of any similar locality. The accommodation for visitors is not unworthy of its natural advantages.
This town is of considerable antiquity, but the precise date of its foundation is unknown. The name is Saxon, signifying a town or fortified place on a rock. In an old saga, the name is given as Skardaborgar. The first fact recorded concerning Scarborough is its destruction by Harold Hadrada, in 1066, on the occasion of the invasion which ended so fatally for himself. The town was long in recovering from this blow. It began to rise into some importance about 1136, when the castle was built. A charter, giving the citizens the same rights as those of York, was obtained from Henry II. in 1181. In ancient times Scarborough was defended by walls, a moat, and earthen mound. It has undergone several sieges. Piers Gaveston, Earl of Cornwall, the favourite of Edward H., took refuge here from the insurgent barons, but, after a short siege, was obliged to surrender. An unsuccessful attempt was made upon the castle by Robert Aske, the leader of the Pilgrims*of Grace, in 1536. The castle was taken by stratagem in 1553 by Thomas, second son of Lord Stafford, who had joined the rebellion of Sir Thoipas Wyatt. He and his followers gained admission under the disguise of peasants, and overpowered the garrison. This is the origin of the proverbial expression, " A Scarborough warning," equivalent to " A word and a blow—but the blow first." The triumph of the insurgents was brief. In three days the Earl of Westmoreland retook the castle, and the ringleaders were carried to London, where they were beheaded. In the time of Charles I., Scarborough was twice besieged by the Parliamentarians. On the first of these occasions the garrison held out for twelve months, and at length, when overcome by disease and famine, obtained honourable terms of capitulation. The castle, damaged by these sieges, was still further dismantled by order of the Parliament. In the rebellion of 1745 it was put into a state of temporary repair, and garrisoned by sailors. A barrack was built in the following year, and a new battery erected, facing the bay The castle is still kept by a small garrison.312 scarborough-population and trade-church.
The population, of Scarborough was estimated in 1881 at 30,000, at the census of 1871 it was 24,081. Since the year 1282 Scarborough has been represented in Parliament by two members.
The trade and commerce of the town are not very considerable. The only manufacture carried on is that of ornaments— particularly of jet. The fishing-trade is, however, increasing.
Scarborough is, in its newer portions, handsomely built. The narrow streets of what constituted the town before it was of much importance as a watering-place are picturesque, and not unworthy of the notice of the tourist. One of the greatest improvements was carried out in 1861-62, when a new and convenient approach to the sands was effected by the construction of Newborough Street, which leads direct from the main street to the west pier. This street affords a drive in a straight line from the railway station to the harbour, giving a fine view of the Castle Cliff and the sea. In 1878 a new road, called the Foreshore Road, was made from the foot of Newborough Street to the Aquarium. A fine bridge spans the Ramsdale valley at a great height, and allows of direct access from the railway station to the new town at the South Cliff. Another great improvement was the erection of the new promenade pier on the North Sands, which extends 1000 feet into the sea, and cost £15,000. It commands a view of the whole of the rugged and bold scenery of the castle and headland, hitherto unseen except from the water. It was formally opened in July 1869. The admission is twopence.
The Parish Church, dedicated to St. Mary, is a venerable structure on a prominent site above the town. It originally belonged to a Cistercian monastery which was established here in the time of Richard I., and has been a much larger and more imposing edifice than it is at present. Before the Reformation it was adorned with three ancient towers, none of which now exist. The present tower occupies the place of one of these which fell in 1659. The ruinous condition of this church is due to its having been used as a position for a battery by the Parliamentary forces in the siege of the castle in 1644. It has been repaired and restored, and is calculated to accommodate nearly 2000 persons. The architecture of this ancient church includes alike remains of the Early Norman work of its first foundation and the more elaborate sculpture of later times. There are somescarborough-churches and public buildings. 313
monuments of no particular interest in the interior. Some of the windows are filled with beautiful stained glass. Thomas Hinderwell, author of a valuable " History of Scarborough," is interred in the churchyard. A neat monument, in the shape of a drinking-fountain of Gothic design, was lately erected to his memory on the Castle Hill, a little above the church.
The other churches are—Christ Church, erected in 1828, an elegant structure with a good tower ; St. Thomas's, a humbler edifice, opened in 1840 ; and St. Martin's, on the hill, a very tasteful building in the Decorated style, erected in 1861-62 by public subscription; and All Saints' Church—Falsgrave, erected in 1868 ; Holt Trinity Church, Westbourn Grove, the Valley, was completed in 1879, and is the parish church to that rapidly increasing district. There are numerous Dissenting Chapels, the most important of which are—the Bar and South Cliff Churches (Congregational); a Wesleyan Chapel, opposite the railway station, a fine building in the Italian style, opened in 1862 ; and a Roman Catholic Church of great size, the full plan of which is not yet carried out, opened by Cardinal Wiseman in 1858.
The Aquarium, finished in 1877 at a cost of upwards of £120,000, is said to be the finest in the world. It is beneath the Cliff Bridge and covers about 3 acres. It has little or no visible exterior, a carriage road going over the top of it. The interior, however, is a grand specimen of the Hindo-Mahomedan style of architecture. The charges for admission range from Is. for a single day ticket to <£3:10s. for an annual family one. Besides the usual objects proper to an aquarium, there are to be found in it ferneries, grottoes, refreshment rooms, and a reading-room.
The other leading public buildings may be mentioned here. The Museum, near the Cliff Bridge, is a rotunda of the Roman Doric order, erected in 1828, and contains a variety of antiquities.
The Old Town Hall, rebuilt in St. Nicholas Street, contains a large and elegant room for public entertainments. The New Town Hall, in Castle Road, is for police and municipal business.
The Market Hall, in St. Helen's Square, is a neat and convenient building in the Tuscan style.
The Assembly Rooms, Theatre, Mechanics' Institute, Seabathing Infirmary, and Banks, are the other buildings of note. There are many schools and charitable institutions. The private314
scarborough castle.
houses in the fashionable part of the town need not dread comparison with those of any watering-place in the kingdom.
It needs scarcely be added that Scarborough possesses abundant resources tor the recreation and amusement of visitors. The season commences in May, and ends in October. During its height, the hotels and lodging-houses are generally crowded, and there is no lack of balls, promenades, and other gay gatherings. The South Cliff, with its terraces, walks, and handsome music hall, saloon, and other spa buildings (more particularly noticed on a subsequent page), is a very favourite resort of visitors, whether water-diinkers or not. For the concerts and other entertainments which are given during the season, the most celebrated artistes are frequently engaged. Indeed, most of the fashionable amusements of the metropolis may be enjoyed here in conjunction with the careless freedom of sea-side life.
Lists of the visitors appear weekly in the local newspapers.
The Castle.—The history of this fortress has been already briefly stated. Its founder was William le Gros, Earl of Albemarle and Holderness. During the Earl's lifetime the castle was taken possession of by Henry II., in pursuance of his policy of reducing the power of the- nobles. It appears to have continued without interruption in the possession of the crown ever since that period. Several kings of England have, either from choice or necessity, honoured it with a visit. Various prisoners of note have been confined here; among them George Fox, the founder of the Society of Friends, who suffered an imprisonment of nearly twelve months in 1655.
The promontory on which the castle stands is 300 feet above the sea, which washes its base on the north, east, and south sides. It is accessible only from the west side, where the steep slope by which it is approached could be easily defended. The remains of the castle are not extensive. The principal portion consists of the stately ruins of the great tower or keep, which is of a square form, and has originally been at least 100 feet high, though it is not now more than. 80, Leland tells us that the approach to it was defended by two other towers, with a drawbridge between them; and some remains of these are still traceable. The keep is in the Norman style. ,Each side measures 54 feet, and the walls are about 12 feet thick. The building has consisted of three storeys, with, as usual, an underground dungeon. The dungeon is nearly filled up with rubbish. The apartments have been spacious and lofty, each floor being 30 feet square, and fromSCARBOROUGH—THE CASTLE HILL—THE SPA.	.315
20 to 30 feet high. The different storeys have been vaulted, and communicated by staircases in the usual way. There are the remains of a large fireplace in the lower storey; private passages and other recesses may also be observed. The windows, which are larger than usual in such buildings, are divided by round mullions, and are in semicircular arched recesses, nearly seven feet deep, six broad, and ten high. The other remains of the castle are not of much importance. Some ruins of an ancient chapel may be seen in the castle-yard. Near them, under an arched vault, is a reservoir of water, called the Lady's Well, supposed to be the spring mentioned by some old writers as consecrated to the Virgin Mary, and possessing healing powers. The water is very transparent, and said to be lighter than any in the Vicinity. The reservoir is capable of holding about forty tuns.
The Castle Hill affords very extensive views, the most charming of which is the bay spread out from the foot of the receding cliffs, where the sea breaks in waves or ripples according to its varying mood, to the far horizon, where it ends in clear, sharp outline, or fades into the hazy sky—a scene that can never lose its novelty.
" Beauty and romance Are thine, thou region of the rock and wave; And priests of Nature, such as poets are, May well enshrine thee in their songs, and make Thy scene immortal to melodious hearts."*
The Spa. Hie Scarborough mineral waters consist of two springs, within a few yards of each other, close upon the sea shore. They were discovered by a lady in 1620. A cistern for collecting the waters was built in 1698, they having by that time come to be pretty generally known and resorted to. The disturbance caused by a slight earthquake in 1737 buried the springs; but after a careful search they were recovered. The Cliff Bridge t spans the ravine between the town and the Spa. The Spa Saloon, opened by the Lord Mayor of London in 1880, contains a Grand Hall accommodating 1000 people, and decorated in the Italian-Renaissance style. Round three sides of it is a spacious promenade. The orchestra will seat about 300 performers. There are many smaller rooms attached to the building, and in front is a broad sea-wall promenade.
* Robert Montgomery.	f Company's band, 11 to 1 a.m. and 7 to 9.316
SCARBOROUGH—THE SPA.
There is also a sheltered promenade beneath, and winding up the face of the cliff are mauy walks and bowers, the favourite resort of visitors.
The springs are distinguished by the names of the North or Chalybeate, and the South or Salt-well. No such difference exists between the waters as their names would lead a stranger to expect. Their taste does not very materially differ ; and their ingredients are the same, with the exception that the south contains rather more chloride of sodium (common salt) and sulphate of lime, and considerably more sulphate of magnesia than the north one. The water of these springs has been often analysed. We quote the analysis of E. Phillips, Esq., F.R.S., in his own words:—
" Estimating such of the saline contents of the water as are usually crystallized to be in that state, one gallon of the north spring contains— Azotic gas . . 6.3 cubic inches. Chloride of sodium (common salt)	26.64 grains.
Crystallized sulphate of magnesia 142.68 Crystallized sulphate of lime	104.00
Bicarbonate of lime . .	48.26
Bicarbonate of protoxide of iron	1.84
Total contents 323.42 grains.
" In analysing the waters of the south spring, the same plan was exactly followed aa in the former; the contents of a gallon are found to be— Azotic gas	. 7.5 cubic inches.
Chloride of sodium (common salt)	29.63 grains.
Crystallized sulphate of magnesia	225.33 „
Crystallized sulphate of lime	110.78 „
Bicarbonate of lime	.	47.80 „
Bicarbonate of protoxide of iron	1.81
Total contents	415.35 grains.
Temperature, 49?, with very little variation.
" I observed that a trace of oxide of manganese appeared to exist in both watei 6; the quantity was so exceedingly minute, that it was impossible to determine it."
The doses of the water are of course regulated by the taste or ailments of visitors. Those who are in health may drink the water ad libitum; while those afflicted with disease would do well to take medical advice regarding the use of it. The water of the South Well, owing to the larger proportion of salts which it contains, acts gently on the bowels and kidneys, when taken in sufficient quantities. It has at the same time tonic properties from the impregnation of iron; so that it is free from the fatiguing and harassing effects so often produced by aperientSCARBOROUGH-THE SPA.
317
waters. It is regarded as beneficial in debility and relaxation of the stomach, in nervous disorders, scurvy, struma, or swelled glands, chlorosis, and particular weakness. Dr. Granville makes the following remarks :—" Even from the little I have said, an inference may be drawn that, after a course of the Harrogate waters, the daily use of the South Spring water of Scarborough would form the most appropriate and beneficial appendix to the treatment of a vast number of disorders, for the cure of which the powerful and exciting effect of the sulphuretted waters had been deemed necessary ; as that remedy may have set up a morbid sensibility of the nerves of the stomach, and an irritability of its lining membrane, which & feeble solution of bicarbonate of protoxide of iron, combined with half a drachm, or a drachm of Epsom salts, would be calculated entirely to remove. I must therefore invite the attention of medical men who may have to send invalids to Harrogate, and that of invalids themselves who may happen to go to Harrogate without advice, and feel grieved, after a course of the waters, to find that their stomach is in an irritable condition—to the fact, that, by going afterwards to Scarborough, they will find means to counteract that unpleasant result."
The North Well has little or no aperient power, but is highly beneficial in its tonic and strengthening qualities. This character points out its value in cases of relaxation. " The North Well water," remarks a medical writer, "is peculiarly useful in a variety of nervous cases, particularly those consequent on "confinement, dissipation, or a town life, where the bowels require no assistance. It is also serviceable in those very numerous cases, which occur to females at that time of life when the growth seems disproportionate to the strength. This complaint is mostly distinguished by a pale complexion, depraved appetite, weariness, and pains in the limbs, palpitations," etc.
The best time for taking the water is before breakfast. It should, if possible, be drunk on the spot.
The admission to the Cliff Bridge and the Spa is by tickets, daily, weekly, or otherwise* A good band of music is engaged during the season for the entertainment of visitors. From the sea-wall defending the saloon, and from the walks traversing the
* The following are the charges:—One person per day, 9d.; per week, 3s. 6d.; fortnight, 5s.; for the season, £1: Is. Extra for bath chairs, Is. per day. These charges are reduced from 1st December to 31st May.318
vicinity of scarborough.
cliff, a charming prospect of the bay and town spreads out before the eye. During the months of " the season " the promenade is the favourite resort of beauty and fashion. At the south end of the Spa grounds is the " Hoist," by which visitors are conveyed to the top of the cliff at the charge of one penny.
Sea-Bathing.—For sea-bathing there is every facility and convenience. Abundance of machines are always in readiness ; and, as has been remarked, the beach of Scarborough is unsurpassed. Those who, from whatever cause, cannot venture to bathe in the open sea, may have all the advantages of the sea-water in any of the various bathing establishments in the town, where baths of other descriptions can also be had.
The Sands are of course the great resort of visitors, whether bathers or not. On a fine day during the season the aspect of the shore is very animated. Large numbers of bathing machines are in requisition, and, while some visitors are gambolling among the waves, others traverse the sands on horseback, or take a quieter ride on donkeys.
The Baths.—The establishment of the Public Bath Company, at the foot of Bland's Cliff, on the Foreshore Road, provides extensive swimming accommodation. That of the South Cliff Bath Company, next to St. Martin's Grammar School, has Turkish and other Baths. The Sanatorium and Medical Bath Company and Taylor's Baths are in Falconer's Road. All these are supplied with sea-water.
VICINITY OF SCARBOROUGH.
Geological Features of the Coast—Oliver's Monnt—Seamer Mere—Carnelian Bay— Bcalby Mill—Haiburn Wyke—Hackness—Bast and West Ayton—Hntton Bus-cel—Wykeham.
The scenery accessible from Scarborough, whether on the coast or inland, is of the most varied and attractive description. The railway brings the visitor within easy reach of almost any point in the interesting line of coast between Scarborough and Bridlington ; and, inland, it bears him to Pickering, with its old castle; Malton, with its Roman camp and priory church; Castle Howard, with its beautiful grounds and its treasures of art; the picturesque ruins of KirTthnm Priory • and, to mention no moreA.i C.Blac3ARB0R0TTGHvicinity of scarborouh—the coast.
319
York with its minster, castle, and other relics of antiquity. Steamers, too, are available at stated times. The sail to Whitby is a charming one, the view of both Scarborough and Whitby from the sea being extremely beautiful. Steamers also ply regularly to Bridlington Quay, giving the tourist a view from the water of the bold headlands and fine bays on this line of coast. A 6teamer running between London and Sunderland calls at Scarborough once a week for passengers. Fishing-boats are always available for short excursions.
The Coast in the neighbourhood of Scarborough has geological features of considerable interest. To the north, the cliffs are formed of gritstone and shales to near Cloughton Wyke, where the limestone rock makes its appearance. The limestone contains many fossils, and the shale above it ironstone balls. The stratifications exhibited by various parts of the coast still farther to the north are very interesting, yielding beautiful shells and fossil plants, such as Ferns, Zamise, and Equiseta. To the south of Scarborough, the features of the coast are in some places highly picturesque, and in others tame and comparatively unattractive. From the Spa to White Nab, the low scars are formed of the oolite; and the cliffs contain carbonaceous sandstones and shales, with many fossils. Red Cliff and Gristhorp Cliff, the next elevations of note on the line of coast, present interesting stratifications. In the shales between these two elevations may be found beautiful fossils, chiefly Ferns, Zanriae, and Lycopodiacese. Filey Brig, Speeton Cliff, Flamborough, with its " Matron," " King," and " Queen," and Bridlington, with its wasting shore, all possess attractions of a very high description, both to the scientific and the general tourist.
There are numerous spots on the coast within a few miles of Scarborough, which are favourite resorts of visitors. We begin with those to the south.
Oliver's Mount, distant about a mile, is a bold eminence, rising 500 feet above the sea, and forming one of the finest terraces in England. Its original name was Weaponness, derived, doubtless, from its being a suitable position for defence. The modern designation is due to a tradition, not corroborated by any historical facts, that Oliver Cromwell was at the siege of Scarborough Castle, and planted a battery here. The summit is easy of access, and the views which it affords, both of land and sea, will be acknowledged abundantly to repay any fatigue which320
vicinity of scarborough-the coast.
the ascent may occasion. A rural tea-house at the bottom offers its simple refreshments to visitors.
Seamer Mere, at the foot of the hill, was once a large lake, abounding in fish. By the formation of the railway, which runs on one side of it, and by drainage, its area has been reduced to a few yards. The village of Seamer, which is some distance to the south, has a church with some remains of Norman architecture. The return from Oliver's Mount may be either by the Bridlington road, or by Seamer Lane, and the village of Fals-grave (p. 322).
Carnelian Bay, so called from the pebbles which are found in it in abundance, is about three miles to the south of Scarborough. Jaspers, moss agates, and carnelians, are the chief pebbles found here; and the collection of specimens forms a powerful inducement to many visitors to take healthful exercise on the shore of this pretty little bay. The visitor may go and return either by the sands or the Bridlington road.
A mile farther south is Cayton, with a church of some interest, and the reservoir from which Scarborough is supplied with water. Here the tourist is miles from Scarborough, by rail. Gristhorp, with its interesting bay, and its cliff containing many fossils, is two miles farther south. Two miles more will bring the tourist to Filey.
To the north, an excursion of six or seven miles will include 6ome spots of interest.
Scalby Mill, about a mile and a half from the town, to the north, is in a pleasant glen, through which Scalby Beck finds its way to the sea. Here romantic visitors may enjoy the luxury of tea and cakes, under the shade of leafy arbours. The village of Scalby, which is a little farther up the streani, is beautifully situated. Its church is neat, but uninteresting.
Haiburn Wyke, a romantic valley through which a small brook descends to the sea, is about miles beyond Scalby, and 6 from Scarborough. The tourist may either walk along the cliffs, or go by the high road, passing through the hamlets of Burniston and Cloughton, the latter of which is supposed to be the site of an ancient British village. Cloughton Wyke is worth a look in passing.
Haiburn Wyke is charmingly wooded, and possesses, moreover, the attraction of a pretty cascade. Bold crags here andvicinity op scarborough—hackness.	321
there skew their heads through the dense foliage, and, outside, the sea breaks in foam upon the projecting ledges of rock with which the ravine terminates. In this neighbourhood the botanist may find the Hymenophyllvm Tunbridgense and the Asplenium marinum, with its curious varieties, trapeziforme and ramosum.
Staintondale Cliffs, a mile and a half farther north, com. mand a striking sea prospect.
The principal places of interest inland from Scarborough may be visited in two excursions—the one to Hackness, and the other through East and West Ayton to Wykeham.
Hackness.—This delightful village is about 6 miles from Scarborough. The road lies through the village of Scalby, already noticed, and from different points commands fine views. From the eminence of Harebrow, especially, above the vale in which Hackness is situated, the tourist looks back on an extensive and beautiful prospect, in which Scarborough Castle and the village of Scalby, lately left, are prominent features. Descending from this hill, the road lies along the edge of a precipitous and finely wooded glen. The village of Hackuess ia embosomed in a pleasant vale, the sides of which rise to an elevation of about 300 feet, and are adorned with wood and natural cascades. The church is a veiy ancient structure, with a good spire. In the interior are several monuments worthy of notice, among them one by Chantrey. The Lady Hilda, Abbess of Whitby, erected a cell for nuns here, and, it is said, retired to it to close her days. This building was destroyed by the Danes about the year 867, but was subsequently rebuilt as a cell for monks of the order of Benedictines. Four monks were residing here at the Dissolution. Hackness Hall, the mansion of Sir H. Johnstone, Bt., was erected by the late Baronet, who inherited the estate from his mother, the Marchioness of Annandale. The gardens and pleasure-grounds are tastefully laid out ; and the greenhouses contain an excellent collection of exotics and rare flowers.
From Hackness, a road to the right will bring the tourist into a deep ravine of considerable length, called Troutsdale, from which a second turn to the right leads into the vale of the Black Beck. In this valley is the straggling moorland village of Lang-dale End, backed by a singular conical hill called Langdale Howe. This eminence has been supposed to be artificial; but a slight examination will shew that this opinion is incorrect. It appears,
y322 vicinity of scarborough-east ajnd west ayton, etc.
however, to have been the site of a fortification of the early Britons. The tourist may return to Hackness over the hill, on the bleak summit of which is the hamlet of Broxa.
This delightful excursion may be continued by following the road which descends the Forge Valley, as this part of the course of the Derwent is called, from the remains of a forge formerly erected for the manufacture of iron. The scenery of this glen is of the most picturesque description. The Derwent is a pretty good trouting stream; but the gentle art must not be practised without the permission of the "Anglers' Club" being first obtained. The road down the Forge Valley brings the tourist to the villages of East and "West Ayton, noticed below.
The excursion to Wykeham and intermediate places is one of considerable interest. The distance is seven miles on the York road.
The pleasant suburb of Falsgrave, once a mile distant, is now connected with Scarborough by a continuous street It has many handsome new houses, and a public pleasure-garden, resorted to by the inhabitants and visitors of Scarborough.
East and West Ayton are between three and four miles beyond Falsgrave. They are built on opposite banks of the Derwent, which is crossed by a good stone bridge. In the latter village there is an old tower, the remnant of the ancient fortified residence of the family of Eures, or Evers. A road to the right here ascends the Forge Valley, already mentioned. The high grounds on both Bides of the valley have British tumuli and fortifications. Bones, flint arrow-heads, urns, and other relics have been found in some of the mounds.
A mile from West Ayton is the pleasantly situated- village of Hutton Buscel, a place of some antiquity. The church consists of nave, aisles, chancel, with a chapel on its north side, and tower, and contains one or two unimportant monuments.
Wykeham, a mile farther distant, has been the site of an abbey, regarding the history of which very little is known. An old tower, in the early English style, still standing on the north side of the road, may have belonged to the building. The parish church was an ancient edifice, with some Norman arches in the nave. Unfortunately it was thought advisable to take it down some years ago. The new church, a small building in the Deco-6ELBY—THE ABBEY CHURCH.
323
rated style, occupies a site near the old tower referred to, which has been repaired and surmounted by a spire.
SELBY.*
Hotels.—Londesborough Arms, The George, Hose and Crown, etc.
Distances.
From York 14 miles; Leeds, 20; Hull, 31; Doncaster, 18.
This busy and thriving town is supposed by some writers, but on no tangible grounds, to be of Roman origin. There are no records of it previous to the Conquest. Since that period, any facts in its history deserving of narration are comprised in the history of its abbey. The population of the town at the census of 1871 was 10,526, and the inhabited houses 2287.
Selby Abbey was founded by William the Conqueror in 1069, and dedicated to St. Mary and St. Germanus. William had occasion to be at Selby the following year, in connection with the endowment; and his queen, who accompanied him, was here delivered of her youngest son, Henry, afterwards King of England. The Conqueror bestowed many privileges on the monks of this religious house, and succeeding monarchs regarded them with equal favour. It is on record that Pope Alexander IV., in 1256, conferred on the abbot, and " his successors for ever," the privilege of " using the ring, mitre, pastoral staff, dalmatic coat, gloves, and sandals; of blessing the palls of the altar, and other ecclesiastical ornaments; and of conferring the first tonsures." The abbots of Selby and of St. Mary's, York, were the only mitred abbots in England north of the Trent. The abbey was in a state of great splendour and prosperity at the time of the Dissolution of monastic establishments by Henry VIII., its clear annual revenue amounting to £729 : 12 : 10^. The site was sold in 1542 to Sir Ralph Sadler, knight. After various transmissions, it came into the family of Lord Petre, with whom it remained till 1854, when it was sold to the Earl of Londesborough, the present owner.
After the Dissolution, the Abbey Church was made parochial; and it is to this circumstance that we owe the preservation, in so much of its early glory, of this beautiful structure. The church is the great attraction of Selby, and it is, we believe, being
* A "History of Selby and its Antiquities " has been published (1867) by Mr. Wilberforce Morrell Selby is on the through line from the north vid York to London.324
SELBY ABBEY CHURCH.
thoroughly restored from plans "by Mr. G. Gilbert Scott, who has made the work " a labour of love " rather than of pecuniary recompense. Its whole length is 267 feet; its "breadth 50 feet; length of transepts, 100 feet. A tower or steeple, which stood at the intersection of the transepts, fell in 1690, destroying the south end of the transept, and part of the roof of the south aisle. The small erection which replaces it, and contains a good peal of bells, is not in very good taste; but it serves the purpose of giving a good view of the neighbourhood to those who ascend to its roof. Burton, in his " Monasticon Eboracense," is of opinion that there were intended to be three towers, the large one in the middle, and two smaller ones at the west end. The massive piers within the church are a sufficient evidence that these two towers were included in the original design; but they do not seem ever to have been built.
The west front is particularly admired. Here there is a fine Norman entrance, richly ornamented. The windows are pointed. The front is finished with a battlemented top and four graceful pinnacles. There is another beautiful Norman doorway on the north side. The porch over it is in the mixed style, which marks the period of transition between the circular and the pointed arch. The walls of the nave and north transept are also Norman ; but the distinctive features of that order of architecture have been in a great measure replaced on the exterior by windows and decorations of a later style. The interior is extremely interesting. The nave, with its round Norman pillars and its magnificent circular arches, surmounted by clerestory windows, also Norman, contrasts with the choir, which is a beautiful specimen of the Decorated style in its best period. The four Norman arches, at the intersection of the transepts, for the support of the great tower, are simple, but grand and massive in their style. The lover of early architecture will further be interested by the elegant low early English arcades which run along the walls of the choir. The east window of the choir is much admired. It is a fine specimen of the Decorated style. In the chancel there are several sedilia, and carved oak stalls. Fragments of old stained glass remain in the tracery of some of the windows. There are also two handsome painted windows of modern erection.
There are numerous monumental slabs, more or less defaced, to the memory of abbots and monks of the ancient establishmentVICINITY OF SELBY-BRAYTON.
325
Neither these, however, nor those of a more modem date, are of much general interest.
The collector of epitaphs might fill many pages of his notebook with memorial verses gathered from the tombstones in the churchyard. The persons commemorated are here, according to a common rustic fashion, represented as speaking from their gravestones. We quote two specimens of the effusions of the churchyard muse. The first is dated 1824:—
" Tho' Boreas' blasts and Neptune's waves Have tost us to and fro, In spite of both, by God's decrees,
We harbour here below; Where we do now at anchor lie
With many of our fleet: Yet once again we must set sail, Our Saviour Christ to meet."
The other, of date 1799, is short and emphatic :—
" Reader, take care ; for thou must shortly lie Mouldering in the dust like ME."
A handsome new church, dedicated to St. James, endowed by James Audus, Esq., has been erected here. The church, parsonage, and endowment, reached the sum of £14,000.
The town is pleasantly built, but has few features of interest in addition to the church. A venerable Gothic cross stands in the centre of the market-place. The Roman Catholics have recently erected a chapel with a neat spire, and turned their old place of worship into schools. There are also a Methodist Chapel, and one or two other edifices devoted to religious purposes, as well as a well-endowed and prosperous Grammar School, founded by Edward VI. A cemetery has been laid out at a short distance from the. town. A handsome movable wooden bridge over the Ouse affords a ready passage for vessels up and down the river. The town has also direct railway communication with Hull, Market Weighton, Leeds, and York.
VICINITY OF SELBY.
Brayton—Birkin—Skipwith—Hemiugbrough—Wressil Castle.
Brayton, about a mile from Selby southward, has a Church which will well repay a visit. This edifice contains some genuine326
VICINITY OF SELBY-BIREIN.
and beautiful Norman work. It consists of nave, aisles, and chancel, with a lofty steeple at the west end, made of three divisions—a high square tower, battlemented, each front near the upper parts having a fine Norman arch, divided into two lights of the same style ; an octagonal continuation, with a pointed window in each of its four main fronts, and buttresses at the corners ; and an octagonal spire. On the south side there is a beautiful Norman doorway, consisting of a receding arch rising from three circular columns. The inner division of# the arch has beautiful zig-zag mouldings ; the middle is adorned with a series of seventeen sculptured medallions about inches in diameter, all circular except the centre one, which is oval, and containing curious devices of monsters, knights, etc.; and the outer arch has a series of thirty-five finely sculptured beak-heads (occasionally varied in a curious manner by human heads with pointed beards)—altogether an excellent example of this kind of ornamentation. A porch of more recent construction protects this beautiful doorway from the action of the weather.
In the chancel there is an altar tomb, dated 1418, with the recumbent effigies of George Darcie and his wife. The church also contains a beautiful sculptured font, the gift of the incumbent in 1861.
Bikkin, between five and six miles to the south-west of Brayton, is also eminently deserving of a visit on account of its old Norman Church. The fabric is dedicated to St. Mary, and consists of nave, south aisle, chancel with semicircular apse, tower, and porch. The nave, chancel, and apse, and the lower portion of the tower, belong to the original structure, which dates from the middle of the twelfth century, and was probably erected by the Knights Templars, who had a Preceptory at Temple Hurst in this parish. The south aisle was built in the reign of Edward II.; and a storey was added to the tower at a subsequent period.
The south doorway is a very elaborate and beautiful specimen of Norman art. It was removed to its present position on the outside of the Bouth aisle, when the south wall of the nave was pulled down for the erection of the aisle. This fine doorway consists of a receding arch of four series, rising from as many columns with sculptured capitals. The ornamentation of this arch is very beautiful, and in perfect preservation. It displays the pellet, the zig-zag, and the beak-head carvings. The doorway is protected, and obscured, by a rude porch.vicinity or 8elbi-skipwith-hemingbrough. 327
The effect of the interior, as viewed from the western entrance, is very imposing. The windows of the nave are high above the head, and the eye is thus led forward to rest upon the arch, which opens to the chancel, and from it to the fine old apse and the altar. The chancel arch is richly sculptured, as are also the windows of the apse, the centre one being filled with later open tracery. The only monument deserving of notice is a recumbent effigy in a loose robe, cross-legged, and with folded hands, in a recess in the north wall of the nave. It bears no arms or inscription, but is supposed to have been placed here in memory of one of the Templars of Temple Hurst.
Birkin may be reached from Burton Salmon Station, whence it is distant about two miles.
Skipwith also deserves the attention of the ecclesiologist. It is about seven miles north from Selby, but the tourist can save himself three or four miles by taking the train to Duffield Gate or Bubwith. The Church of Skipwith is a large and handsome structure, with a tower which there is good reason for believing to be of Saxon architecture. The rude simplicity and strength of this tower will doubtless have a greater charm to the antiquarian, than the most elaborately ornamented specimens of the best style of Gothic architecture. A church existed here at the time of the Domesday survey, and there can be little doubt, from the style of its architecture, that this tower is a part of it. Indeed, Skipwith can claim an antiquity long anterior to the Conquest. On the moor in its neighbourhood are numerous traces of the early Britons. The foundations of many huts have been excavated, and have shewn marks of fire ; and the tumuli (which are here remarkable, as set in a square enclosure, the sides of which point north and south, and east and west) have yielded charred bones.
Hemingbrough, about a mile from the Cliff station (three miles from Selby), has a Churchy the beautifully tapered spire of which—one of the finest in Yorkshire—forms a very prominent feature in the landscape. The church is cruciform, the spire rising from the intersection of the transepts, and has three aisles. It was a collegiate church before the Reformation. There is a good deal to interest the tourist in the architectural details of this fine edifice, both externally and internally.
Wressil Castle, near the Wressil Station (six miles from Selby), is less known and visited than it deserves. The ruin, as it now stands, consists of only the fourth side of a great square328
VICINITY OF SELBY-WRESSIL CASTLE.
castle, built by Thomas Percy, Earl of Worcester, in the days of Richard II. Three sides of the square were pulled down in 1650, by order of the Parliament, who seemed to have feared it might be seized for the king. Leland, who visited the castle about 1554, has left a description of it. The following sentence contains the most interesting part of his description :— " One thing I likid exceedingly ; yn one of the toures ther was a study, caullid Paradise, wher was a closet in the middle of 8 squares latisid aboute, and at the toppe of every square was a deske ledgid to set bookes on cofers withyn them, and this semid as joined hard to the toppe of the closet, and yet by pulling, one or al wolde cum downe briste highte in rabettes, and serve for deskes to lay bookes on." Three of the apartments were adorned with poetical inscriptions, perhaps written by the celebrated Henry Algernon Percy, fifth Earl of Northumberland, a great lover of learning and learned men.
The part of the castle still remaining is the south front, which is flanked by two large square towers. This fine old ruin was used as a farm-house till an accidental but opportune conflagration turned it from that ignoble use by reducing it to a complete ruin. One of the towers can be ascended by a circular stone stair. Its summit commands a pretty extensive view. The walls of this castle have suffered little or nothing from the ravages of time : the edges of the carvings and mouldings are scarcely less fresh than when they came from the hands of the workman. The fine old fire-places may be seen in the walls on the different storeys, and other domestic details may be observed, which there is not space to notice here. The ruin is picturesquely clad with old ivy and fruit trees.
From Wressil the tourist may proceed either to Howden (three mile9 farther on by rail—see p. 182), or, through a pleasant, but not very interesting country, to Bubwith (about three and a half miles), and thence by rail to Market Weighton. Bubwith is a village of little interest to the tourist. It-has a church pleasantly situated on the bank of the Derwent. This edifice consists of nave, aisles, chancel, and a tower with battlements and pinnacles. There are several unimportant monument* in the interior.CITY ARMS OF SHEFFIELD.
SHEFFIELD.
Hotels.—The Victoria (close to the M. S. & L. Station), Imperial, Black Swam.
King's Head, Royal, Wharncliffe, etc.
Distances.
From York, 46 miles; Leeds, 89; Huddersfleld, 26; Doncaster, 27}; London, 162}.
Sheffield, " the metropolis of steel," is situated near the confluence of the Don and the Sheaf, at the eastern foot of that extensive range of hills which traverses the centre of the island from Staffordshire to Westmoreland. It is the chief town of the ancient Saxon District of Hallamshire ; and the name is evidently-derived from £he Sheaf, which here mingles its waters with the Don. Under "William the Conqueror, the manor of Sheffield was held by Roger de Busli ; and in the reign of Henry I. it came, with other estates, to the family of De Lavetot. A castle, no vestiges of which remain, was built at a very early period, probably by a member of this family. The castle and manor passed by marriage to the Furnivals, and ultimately to the Talbots, Earls of Shrewsbury. On the failure of heirs-male to that line, it passed by marriage to Thomas Howard, Earl of Arundell and Surrey, with whose heirs it still continues. In 1530, Cardinal Wolsey, having been arrested at Cawood by order of Henry VIII., was brought to the manor-house,*where he remained sixteen days. Here also in 1570 Mary Queen of Scots lay immured for fourteen years—having been delivered over by Elizabeth to the keeping of the Earl of Shrewsbury. In the civil wars, Sheffield declared for the Parliament; but subsequently surrendered to the Earl of * Restored by the present Duke of Norfolk.330
SHEFFIELD-EMINENT MEN.
Newcastle. After the battle of Marston Moor it was retaken, and the castle demolished by order of the Parliament, 1648.
Sheffield has given to the world several names of note, among whom may be mentioned Ebenezer Elliott, who was a Sheffield man, though not, strictly speaking, a native of the town, having been born at Masborough. Sheffield claims as her own another poet, who was not a native. James Montgomery was born at Irvine, in Ayrshire, in 1771, but spent the greater part of his life at Sheffield, where he died in 1854. For about half a century he was editor of the Sheffield Iris; and his staunch adherence to liberal principles twice subjected him to fine and imprisonment He beguiled the tediousness of his confinement by writing a number of poems, which he entitled " Prison Amusements." The people of Sheffield have shewn their respect for both poets by erecting handsome monuments to their memory.
Sheffield was the birthplace of Mrs. Hofiand, authoress of " The Son of a Genius," and numerous other works. Her series of books written for the young are deservedly popular. She was born in 1770, and died in 1844.
John Pye Smith, D.D., was born at Sheffield in 1775. He was educated at the Independent College, Rotherham. His refutation of the Socinian heresy, in a work entitled " The Scripture Testimony to the Messiah," gained him the degree of D.D. (from Yale College, America), and a high reputation as a theologian, which he maintained in subsequent works. For fifty years he discharged the duties of theological Professor at Homer-ton College. He died in 1851.
Sir Francis Chantrey, the eminent sculptor, was born in this neighbourhood in 1781, and died in 1841.
Mark Firth, who died in 1880, amassed a large fortune as a steel manufacturer here, and he spent a considerable portion of it in works of charitable munificence. Chief amongst his benefactions were the presentation of 36 acres of land, in the north-east of the town, as a public park ; the foundation and partial endowment of Firth College, in. the centre of the town, for the benefit of students who wished to continue their course beyond the ordinary school period ; and the erection and endowment of almshouses at Ranmoor at a cost of £30,000.SHEFFIELD-POPULATION AND MANUFACTURES. 331
Sheffield is the second town in Yorkshire in point of population and commercial importance, Leeds occupying the first place. Since the beginning of the present century, the population of Sheffield has been more than quintupled. In 1801, it was 45,755 ; in 1841, 111,091 ; in 1851, 135,310 ; in 1871, 239,946 ; and in 1881 (estimated), 312,943. At the census of 1871 the population of the borough was 239,947, and the inhabited houses 48,521. This return exhibits an increase over the previous census of 54,775 persons, and 10,469 inhabited houses. It is represented in Parliament by two members.
Sheffield owes its first establishment and its extraordinary development to its great natural advantages, combined with the energy and enterprise of its citizens. The value of the five rapid and manageable streams which converge towards the town from the surrounding hills must have been immense in the days when steam-power was yet unknown. These streams turn numerous grinding-wheels, which are situated in eveiy favourable position, and, with the rather rough-looking men who work with them, form highly picturesque objects* But its abundant water-power is one of the smallest, and, in these days, least important advantages of Sheffield. Abundance of coal, of the kinds best suited for the different operations of the Sheffield manufacturers, is to be found in the vicinity. Iron ore is abundant. Building stone, capable of bearing the great heat of the furnaces, and clay for bricks and melting-pots, are also obtained in plenty in the neighbourhood.
In the thirteenth century Sheffield had gained some reputation by its iron manufactures, its " whittles" t finding their way into the southern and eastern counties. In the reign of Queen Elizabeth many artisans emigrated from the Netherlands into England, in consequence of the cruelties of the Duke of Alva, and the iron workers settled in Sheffield, thereby giving a great impetus to the trade. From this period the town began to be noted for the manufacture of shears, sickles, knives, and scissors.
* '* Beautiful rivers of the desert 1 ye
Bring food for labour from the foodless waste. Pleased stops the wanderer on his way, to see The frequent weir oppose your heedless haste, Where toils the mill, by ancient woods embraced. Hark, how the cold steel screams in hissing fire I There draws the grinder his laborious breath; There, coughing at his deadly trade, he bends."—BUiotL
f " A Sheffield whittle bare he In his hose."—Clumctr.332
sheffield-st. peter's church,
Sheffield, with its neighbourhood, is the chief seat of the nteel manufacture. The greater part of the iron here turned into steel is imported from northern Europe. The iron of Sweden, Norway, and Russia, is much superior for steel purposes to that produced in this country ; and vast quantities are received annually in the port of Hull, and forwarded to Sheffield, to be there turned into the numberless articles of utility and ornament for the production of which this town is so famous. It is not within our province to give a detailed account of the manufactures of Sheffield. Some establishments confine themselves to the preliminary process of converting the iron into steel; others to the beating of the bars into a higher and finer quality; others to 4< milling" and " rolling." Some establishments, again, unite all these operations. In the final manufacture of the steel into articles of commerce, some houses produce almost every article, while others direct their attention chiefly to one branch. Many of these establishments are of vast size, but the steel manufacture is not confined to them ; for m the surrounding district there are villages of cutlers, fork-makers, and file-cutters, and in many a cottage, with its little patch of land attached, there is a forge for the manufacture of a particular sort of knife. Cutlery, in all its branches, is the chief manufacture of Sheffield. Plated goods are also one of its staple manufactures. Brass foundries are numerous. Buttons, wire, fenders, grates, boilers, spoons, tea and coffee pots, candlesticks, and other articles of Britannia metal, are made in great quantities. The manufacture of steel springs for railway carriages is a very important branch of trade here. The great revolution which has lately taken place in the matter of naval armament has developed a new and extensive branch of the iron manufacture—that of the construction of thick plates of iron for sheathing men-of-war and floating batteries.
Sheffield is built upon a natural amphitheatre of hills. The streets are consequently undulating, and in some localities even precipitous, though well built, paved, and lighted. The central thoroughfares contain some handsome and extensive shops ; and the villa residences and suburban mansions are hardly to be surpassed by those of any town in the kingdom.
St. Peter's Church, a handsome building, on an open site which displays it to much advantage, is the only object of any antiquity in the town. There was a church here in the time of Henry I.; but the oldest parts of the presentSHEFFIELD-ST. PETER'S CHURCH.
333
edifice do not seem to be of earlier date than the reign of Edward III. It consists of nave, aisles, chancel, and two transepts, with a beautiful crocketed spire. The transepts were added in 1880, when the fabric was thoroughly restored at a cost of £20,000. At the same time the nave was lengthened and two porches placed at the west end. In the south transept three stained glass windows were placed. The galleries were removed, and the high old-fashioned pews in the body of the church replaced by oaken seats. On October 26, 1880, the church was reopened by the Archbishop of York.
The interior contains some interesting monuments, including a bust, the first known work of Sir Francis Chantrey, of the Rev. J. Wilkinson, a former Vicar of Sheffield. This fine work has in it unmistakable indications of the genius and success which crowned the career of that great sculptor. The part of the chancel on the right hand from the altar forms the sepulchral chapel of the Talbot family, commonly called the Shrewsbury ChapeL The most imposing monument here is that of George, the sixth Earl of Shrewsbury. It is massive in form, and Grecian in style. Above a sarcophagus lies a full-length figure of the earl in armour, with his helmet behind his head Beside the sculptured helmet lies an old one of metal, broken and rusty, probably a relic of the deceased. At his feet is another of the same description. On the stone above is a long Latin inscription in gilt letters, written by John Fox, the martyrologist, setting forth the noble origin, personal dignities, and public and private virtues of the earl.
Near the altar is the monument of George, the fourth earl, and his two countesses. It is finely sculptured. The effigies of the earl and his two wives are beautifully executed in marble. This tomb is under an arch of a peculiar form, which has been very properly preserved on the restoration and alteration of the interior of the church.
It is a fact worth recording, in connection with this church, that William Walker, who is commonly supposed to have been the executioner of Charles I., is interred in the chancel, close to the door, on the south side. There was formerly a brass affixed to the wall, with an inscription to his memory ; but this has long
* Hunter's " History of Hallamsbire," pp. 149, 160.334 SHEFFIELD-PUBLIC BUILDINGS-MANUFACTORIES.
disappeared. The inscription, however, has been preserved ; and a copy of it will be found in Hunter's book, in which it is shewn conclusively that William Walker was not a likely person to undertake the office of an executioner, although from his translating the " Vindicice contra Tyrannos," and his friendship with leading members of the republican party, it is very probable that he considered the execution of Charles a thing entirely right. At the Restoration, Walker retired to Darnall, in this parish, where he died in 1700. His burial is entered in the old register of the church.*
There are about twenty other churches in Sheffield, but they do not require to be individually referred to, as, though many of them very handsome buildings, they are not, from their antiquity or otherwise, of much general interest.
Among the dissenting places of worship is a new Roman Catholic Church, a building of much magnificence. There is a Wesleyan College, a spacious and splendid edifice, a little out of the town, on the Manchester road.
Public buildings of a municipal, educational, and miscellaneous character, are numerous, and of a style worthy of this great and prosperous town. The more important of these are—the Town Hall, the New Corn Exchange, the Covered Markets, the CutlerJ Hall, the School of Art, the Public Baths, Infirmary, Shrewsbury Hospital, Jessop Hospital, Banks, Firth, Ranmoor, and Wesley Colleges, and the Central Board Schools. In the suburbs there is an attractive Botanic Garden.
A monument to Ebenezer Elliott stands in Weston Park. It consists of a bronze statue of the poet, in a sitting posture, upon a pedestal. A handsome monument was lately raised to the memory of James Montgomery in the Cemetery, a short distance from the town. The Crimean Column is in Union Street.
The Manufactories form a very important feature of Sheffield, and require a word of notice. As has been stated above, there is often a very great division of labour in the iron manufactures. In the one article of cutlery, for example, the knife or razor may pass through the hands, from first to last, of about a dozen different tradesmen, before it is sent out into the market. Some houses confine themselves to a single article ; others produce many. Several of the manufactories are very extensive, and employ a vast number of hands. Should the tourist
* Ibid., pp. 144 and 264.vicinity of sheffield-sherwood forest. 335
procure an introduction, lie will find a walk through one of these establishments very interesting. Among the leading manufactories are :—The Cyclops Steel Works, the River Don Works, Rockingham Works, Atlas Works, Etna Works, Agenoria, Regent, Cornish Place, and Suffolk Works, etc. The principal cutlery showrooms are those of Messrs. Rodgers and Messrs. Mappin & Well.
VICINITY OF SHEFFIELD.
Once out of the smoke and noise of Sheffield, the tourist will find that it is pleasantly situated, and that its busy workers may soon find themselves, when the intermission of their labour admits of it, amid attractive scenery. The manufacturing towns, with which the railway connects Sheffield, are elsewhere described, and need not be here again referred to.
Sherwood Forest.—The reader of Scott will scarcely require to be reminded that many of the scenes of " Ivanhoe" are laid in the tract of country in the neighbourhood of Sheffield and Rother-ham. "In that pleasant district of meny England which is watered by the Don," begins Sir Walter, " there extended in ancient times a large forest, covering the greater part of the beautiful hills and valleys which lie between Sheffield and the pleasant town of Doncaster. The remains of this extensive wood are still to be seen at the noble seats of Wentworth, of Wharncliffe Park, and around Rotherham. Here haunted of yore the fabulous Dragon of Wantley; here were fought many ®f the most desperate battles during the civil wars of the Roses ; and here also flourished in ancient times those bands of gallant outlaws whose deeds have been rendered so popular in English song."
Sherwood Forest extended in ancient times from Nottingham to Whitby, 100 miles in a straight line. So late as the time of Queen Elizabeth, it contained a space equal to the present dimensions of the New Forest. There are considerable remains of it near Mansfield in Nottinghamshire, and there is enough of fine and old wood remaining in this part of the West Riding to which Scott refers, to help the tourist to realise the truth of the charming description of sylvan scenery with which " Ivanhoe" opens. The tourist will doubtless be glad to recal the scene in which Wamba, the son of Witless, and Gurth, with his herd of porkers, make their first appearance :—" The sun was setting upon one of th'i rich grassy glades of that forest which we have mentioned invicinity of sheffield-wentworth house. 337
the beginning of the chapter. Hundreds of broad-headed, short-stemmed, wide-branched oaks, which had witnessed perhaps the stately march of the Roman soldiery, flung their gnarled arms over a thick carpet of the most delicious greensward; in Bome places they were intermingled with beeches, hollies, and copsewood of various descriptions, so closely as totally to intercept the level beams of the sinking sun ; in others they receded from each other, forming those long sweeping vistas, in the intricacy of which the eye delights to lose itself, while imagination considers them as the paths to yet wildeT scenes of sylvan solitude. Here the red rays of the sun shot a broken and discoloured light, that partially hung upon the shattered boughs and mossy trunks of the trees, and there they illuminated in brilliant patches the portions of turf to which they made their way."
Wentworth House, the princely seat of the Earl of Fitz-william, is four miles from Rotherham. For extent and magnificence it can be equalled by few private residences in the kingdom. The principal front is to the park, and consists of a centre and two wings, its length being upwards of six hundred feet. In the centre six magnificent Corinthian columns rise from a rusticated stylobate, and support an angular pediment, with the motto and arms of the Marquis of Rockingham (the mansion having been erected by the first marquis, who died in 1750). The pediment is surrounded by three fine statues, one at cach angle. The rest of the building corresponds admirably in style with the centre.
The Entrance Hall is very large and lofty, and contains some good sculptures, chiefly copies in marble from the famous antiques. Among them is the Venus de Medicis.
The collection of paintings is valuable. It includes works by Vandyck, Titian, Salvator Rosa, Sir Peter Lely, and numerous other celebrated painters. We give the names of the principal pictures.
First Room. Vandyck—Three children of the unfortunate Earl of Strafford. Sir Joshua Reynolds—Full-length portrait of Charles, Marquis of Rockingham.
Library. Vandyck's famous painting of Lord Strafford and his Secretary. Sir Peter Lely—Lady Anne and Lady Arabella Wentworth.
Gallery. Sir Peter Lely—Two Children. Vandyck—nen-z338	VTCxNITT OF SHEFFIELD-WENTWORTH HOUSE.
rietta Maria : Rinaldo and Armido. Salvator Rosa—Jason, and the Dragon ; a rocky sea-coast. Teniers—A landscape, with peasants. Vandyck—Lord Strafford in armour. Raphael— Virgin and Child (a copy, Waagen says). Titian—A holy family. Palma Vecchio—Virgin and Child, with the Baptist and St. Catherine. Van Ostade—Peasant Wedding. Claude Lorraine —Landscape. Sir Joshua Reynolds—Portrait of the Countess Fitzwilliam, mother of the present Earl. Sir Godfrey Kneller —Portrait of Shakspeare, a copy, presented "by Sir Godfrey to Dryden (having the same features as the Chandos picture in the Bridgewater Gallery).
Yellow Damask Room. Hogarth—Family of the Earl of Rockingham.
Drawing Room. Sir Joshua Reynolds—Present Earl, when four years of age. Sir Thomas Lawrence—Father of the present Earl. Stubbs—A horse, size of life.
Yandyck Room. Vandyck—Earl of Strafford, in armour ; William Laud, Archbishop of Canterbury; Henrietta Maria ; Arabella, second Countess of Lord Strafford. Sir Peter Lely— Duke of Gloucester, son of Charles I.; Prince Rupert. Sir Joshua Reynolds—The infant Hercules strangling the Serpents. Jacob Jordaens—A Girl and Old Man. Paul Veronese—The Tribute Money. Titian—A Magdalen.
We have not space to mention other pictures ; neither can we particularise the other valuable objects of art with which this noble residence is adorned.
The Park has an area of upwards of 1500 acres, and is adorned with wood and water in a style worthy of the mansion.
The Mausoleum of Charles, Marquis of Rockingham, is in the park, to the south of the mansion, and near the grand entrance from the Rotherham road. It is ninety feet high, and consists of three storeys. The basement storey is square, and Doric in style; the next is of the same form, but Ionic, each of its four sides opening into an arch ; and the third storey consists of twelve Ionic columns supporting a cupola. The arches in the second storey disclose to view a beautiful sarcophagus standing in the centre. Over the arches is the following inscription :— " This monument was erected by Wentworth, Earl Fitzwilliam, 1788, to the memory of Charles, Marquis of Rockingham." The lower storey, which consists of an apartment rising into a dome, contains a white marble statue of the marquis in his robes, byvicinity op sheffield-'wharncliffe lodge. 33C
Nollekens. On the pedestal, besides an enumeration of his titles, and a tribute in verse by Frederick Montague, Esq., there is a eulogium on the public and private character of this great statesman from the. pen of Edmund Burke. This inscription is too long to be quoted entire. The following is its first paragraph :—
" A man worthy to be held in remembrance, because he did not live for himself. His abilities, industry, and influence were employed, without interruption, to the last hour of his life, to give stability to the "liberties of his country ; security to its landed property ; increase to its commerce ; independence to its public councils, and concord to its empire. These were his ends. For the attainment of these ends, his policy consisted in sincerity, fidelity, directness, and constancy. In opposition, he respected the principles of government; in administration he provided for the liberties of the people. He employed hia moments of power in realising everything that he had professed in a popular situation, the distinguishing mark of his public conduct. Reserved in profession, sure in performance, he laid the foundation of a solid confidence."
In niches in the wall, there are busts in white marble of Edmund Burke, the Duke of Portland, Frederick Montague, Sir George Saville, Charles James Fox, Admiral Keppel, John Lee, and Lord George Cavendish.
The Marquis of Rockingham was uncle to Earl Fitzwilliam, who succeeded to the estates on his death.
The Village is picturesque. In the church are some andent monuments of the Wentworth family.
Whabncliffe Lodge.—A visit to this place will afford an agreeable excursion from Sheffield. The distance is six or seven miles, and can be gone by railway. The nearest station is Oughty Bridge, on the M. S. & L. line. Small and unpretending in its appearance, it yet occupies one of the most beautiful positions of any edifice in the county. Lady Mary Wortley Montague resided here during much of the first two or three years of her married life, and here her son was born. Writing afterwards from Avignon, and speaking of the exquisite landscape that lies spread out before the eye of the tourist, when he stands on the height crowned by the old Castle of the Popes, she describes it as " the most beautiful land prospect I ever saw, excyt Whamcliffe"
The lodge and estate are the property of Lord Whamcliffe,340 VICINITY OP SHEFFIELD-"WHARNOLIFFE CRAGS.
and under the charge of a keeper, who, we believe, affords the necessary accommodation for pic-nic or pleasure parties. There is nothing about the building itself deserving of special notice. Close to the lodge is a large ground-fast stone, " in burthen at least a hundred cart loads," as John Taylor, the water-poet, has observed. The stone is about 12 feet long by 6 wide. It bears an inscription, now illegible, but which was deciphered by Mr. Hunter as follows :—
" prag for tfje rfaufe of Cljomaji smrgttelag l&nsfltjt far tf)£ Hjrnggg ia&e ta <£tifoar& ff)* fartfje »sdjartr tfjcrtJ $are tl)t bit. & Sare biii.
Ijotoi Saulti (Soft pgrtton togrije STfjamag cafojSgii a Urge to be matie
ijon tf)ttf trafl mg&gg of WSSmtlile for \plexor to tyx ffje fjarteg btl tn tije gere of oior 3Lor& a tfcoutfautr rcccc.):."
Some accounts say that this Sir Thomas was fonder of hearing the hart's bell than he was of hearing the sounds of human life and industiy, and that he cleared away a whole village on the moor between Sheffield and Penistone, " to lengthen out his chase." The legend (which, it must be confessed, is of doubtful authority) adds, that he received poetical justice ; for " it came to pass, that before he died he belled like a deer, and was distracted."
The view from the summit of the Wharncliffe Crags is extensive and magnificent in the highest degree. Westward, th( eye ranges over an expanse of wood, with the Don beneath, anc pleasant hills beyond, the distance being closed in by wile moorland. To the south stretches a wide and beautiful valley the rich green of its bottom, through which the 6tream pleasantly wanders, contrasting with the dark brown of the bold hills that rise on either side. More cultivated and quietly beautiful is the vale of the Loxley, to the east The whole view is extremely picturesque, presenting features of the most varied kind,
Wharncliffe will possess an additional interest to some visitors, from the fact of its being generally supposed to be the scene of the ballad entitled, " The Dragon of Wantley," publishedBHEBITF HUTTON.
341
in Bishop Percy's " Reliques of Antient "English Poetry." The ballad is a burlesque (Dr. Percy and other critics are of opinion) upon a contest at law between an overgrown Yorkshire attorney and a gentleman of this neighbourhood. The attorney having, among other dishonest and disreputable actions, deprived three orphans of their inheritance, this gentleman generously took up their cause. He completely defeated his antagonist; and— strangest part of the whole—the attorney broke his heart with vexation at his defeat 1 More Hall, mentioned in the following extract, is on the opposite side of the Don from Wharncliffe. In the Wharncliffe Crags, near the summit, is a cave, which, in accordance with the " foregone conclusion" of the ballad, is called the Dragon's Cave.
" In Yorkshire, near fair Rotherham, The place I know it well; Borne two or three miles, or thereabouts,
I vow I cannot tell: Bat there is a hedge, jast on the hill edge,
And Matthew's house hard by it; O there and then was this dragon's den, Tou could not choose but spy it.
" Old stories tell how Hercules A dragon slew at Lerna, With seven heads and fourteen eyes,
To see and well discern-a; But he had a club, this dragon to drub, Or he had ne'er done it, I warrant ye; But More of More Hall, with nothing at all, He slew the dragon of Wantley."
Wentworth Castle, four miles farther distant, is described in the vicinity of Bahnsley (p. 48).
SHERIFF HUTTON.
From York, 11 miles; Malton, 9; Easingwold, 8; Flaxton Station, 2.
The small village of Sheriff Hutton, interesting on account of the ruins of its castle, and its old church, is prominently situated in a rich and pleasant district near the foot of the Howardian Hills. It is respectably built, but contains no edifices of importance with the exception of the church. The original name of this place was Hutton (houe, a tumulus, or hutte, a cottage,342
sheriff hurron castle and church.
and ton, a town). It derived the prefix of Sheriff from Bertrand de Bulmer, its owner, and the founder of the castle, who long held the office of sheriff of Yorkshire.
The Castle is a somewhat picturesque ruin consisting of several detached but stately piles. It was originally built by Bertrand de Bulmer, in the reign of Stephen, and passed along with the manor to Geoffrey de Neville, who married his only daughter Emma. Ralph de Neville, the first Earl of Westmoreland, rebuilt the castle, and greatly enlarged and strengthened it. This Earl is a prominent character in Shakspere's King Henry IV. The castle and manor continued in this family till the death of the famous Richard Neville, Earl of Warwick, at the battle of Barnet, in 1471, when they were seized by Edward IV., who conferred them on his brother Richard, Duke of Gloucester, afterwards Richard III. After various transmissions, during which the castle was the residence of the Duke of Norfolk (1490-1500), and of Henry Fitzroy, Duke of Richmond, natural son of Henry VIIL (about 1530), the property came into the possession of the Marquis of Hertford, with whose family it now remains.
The ruins consist of the remains of four corner towers, one of them nearly a hundred feet high. The principal entrance has been on the east side. Its pointed arch still remains, with four carved shields above it. The highest of the towers is that at the south-west corner. In its base is a vault or dungeon, with an arched stone roof, 40 feet long, and 20 feet broad. Above it is another apartment, similarly arched, and in pretty good preservation. The tower above this is open to the sky. The circular stair which led to the top, communicating with the different storeys, has also been destroyed. The north-west tower is thoroughly ruinous, all its apartments being broken down. The north-east tower, which is the most massive, has a vault similar to the one already noticed in the south-west tower. The remaining tower, in the south-east corner, differs from the others in having buttresses on its outward angles. The castle has been surrounded by a moat, about one-third of which still remains.
The Church, which is dedicated to St. Helen, consists of nave, aisles, chancel, and tower. It appears to have been built about the middle of the thirteenth century ; but its architecture is not uniform, some of the windows being as late as the time of Elizabeth. In the north aisle there are two interesting altar tombs. One of them bears the recumbent effigy of a knight inSKJPTON.
343
annour, with his legs crossed, his hands clasped over his breast, and a lion at his feet. From an inscription on a flat stone beside the monument it appears to be to the memory of Thomas Wytham, and his wife Agnes, who built a porch and chapel, and founded a chantry here. The other tomb bears the recumbent figure of a young person evidently of high rank, with a coronet on his head, and clad in the loose furred robe of the fifteenth century. This monument is considerably defaced, and bears no inscription. A remarkable sculpture on the centre of the face of this tomb —one of a description seldom to be met with in this country— should not be overlooked. It is a venerable figure crowned and enthroned, evidently meant to represent the Deity, having before • him the cross with our Saviour suspended on it, and to the right a knight in armour, praying.* On the altar step there is a small monumental brass, dated 1491, with the engraved effigies of a man and woman, swathed in grave clothes.
About a mile from Sheriff Hutton, to the north-east, is Sittenham, the birth-place, in 1320, of Sir John Gower, the poet, the friend and instructor of Chaucer. He died in London in 1402.
SKIPTON.
Inns.—The Devonshire Arms and The Station, Distances.
From Leeds, 26 miles ; Bradford, 18 ; Settle, 16.
The vale of Skipton (that part of the valley of the Aire which extends from the town five or six miles up and down the stream) is regarded as one of the richest tracts of land in the county. Some parts of this vale are of great beauty ; indeed, an enthusiastic county historian pronounces one of its richest and finest districts " a terrestrial paradise." Skipton is generally regarded as the capital of Craven, an extensive tract of country, whose beauties and antiquities have been elaborately described by Dr. Whitaker. The scenes of chief interest in this, the more classic part of the Highlands of Yorkshire, are noticed under Airedale and Wharfedale.
In Domesday Book and old charters this town is called Scip-
* A similar device—representiDg, however, the Trinity, the Holy Spirit appealing as a dove—may he seen on the altar tomh of Lord Butler of Bewsey, in thn north aisle of tlie pariah church of Warrington, Lancashire.344
SKIPTON-THE CLIFFORDS.
tone or Sceptone, the name being derived, according to Whitaker, from Sceap, the Saxon for Bheep, as there were vast tracts of sheep-walks in the surrounding country. Skipton is of considerable note in history. The history of the town is that of the castle, from which it derived its importance. At the conquest, Skipton was conferred on Robert de Romilld, who built a castle here. After several transmissions, the castle and estate came, in 1311, into the possession of the Clifford family, with whose collateral descendants it still remains. The part which the Cliffords took in the wars of York and Lancaster does not require to be detailed. One Lord Clifford fell in the battle of St. Albans in 1454; and his death seems to have inspired his son with a ferocious spirit of revenge:—
" Even at this sight My heart Is turned to stone; and, while 'tis mine, It shall be stony. York not our old men spares ; No more will I their babes; tears virginal Shall be to me even as the dew to Are; And beauty, that the tyrant oft reclaims, Shall to my flaming wrath be oil and flax. Henceforth I will not have to do with pity; Meet I an infant of the house of York, Into as many gobbets will I cut it, As wild Medea youug Absyrtus did ; In cruelty will I seek out my fame."*
Six years after, at the battle of "Wakefield, Clifford shewed that he was animated by the feelings so forcibly described by the poet, by murdering, in cold blood, the Earl of Rutland, a youth of seventeen. Leland, says that" for slaughter of men at Wakefield, he was called 'the butcher.'" This Lord Clifford perished at Towton field. His estates were confiscated, but subsequently restored to his son Henry, the " Shepherd Lord," whose son, of the same name, was created Earl of Cumberland by Henry VIIL The third earl distinguished himself as an admiral in the time of Queen Elizabeth. His daughter, the celebrated .Anne Clifford, Countess of Dorset, Pembroke, and Montgomery, was born in Skipton Castle. The castle having been dismantled by orders of the Parliament, on its being surrendered after a long siege, the Countess of Pembroke set herself resolutely to its restoration, as soon as it appeared safe to do so. An inscription over a doorway states that she repaired the castle in 1657 and 1658. Her daughter brought the castle and estate,
* Kino Henry VI., Part II. Act v., Scene 2.skipton church and castle.
345
by marriage, to John Tufton, Earl of Thanet. They still continue in the possession of the Tufton family.
Skiptonhas a population of 9505, and 1946 inhabited houses. Woollen and cotton manufactures are carried on to a considerable extent, and there is a large trade in agricultural produce. There is a cattle market once a fortnight; and numerous large fairs are held in the course of the year for cattle, horses, pedlery, etc. Limestone is quarried extensively in the neighbourhood. The town is well built. The most important and interesting edifices which it contains are the Church and the Castle, which are situated near each other, at the north end of the town.
The Chubch is a large and spacious building, belonging to different periods. It was probably founded by Robert de Romille, on his coming into possession of the manor; but nothing remains of the original edifice, unless the four stone seats with pointed arches and cylindrical columns, in the south wall of the nave, may have belonged to it. As it now stands, the oldest parts of the church belong to the time of Richard III., while a considerable portion does not go farther back than the reign of Elizabeth or Henry VIII. Architecturally, therefore, it is not of very great interest to the tourist, though it is a good example of the period to which it belongs. In the interior there are some ancient monuments of the Clifford family, whose family vault is beneath the altar. That to the first Earl of Cumberland and his wife is a grey marble altar tomb. It has apparently been intended to bear, and perhaps has borne, their effigies. The brasses were stolen away during the time of the civil wars. A stately tomb of black marble, erected by his daughter, the Countess of Pembroke, commemorates George Clifford, third Earl of Cumberland. Several of the other monuments are worthy of notice. There is some good stained glass in the windows.
There is another church in Skipton, a modern building, called Christ Church, with a neatly laid out cemetery adjoining it.
Skipton Castle.—The entrance to the castle, which is close to the parish church, is through a slightly pointed arch in a square tower, with a massive round tower on either side. In the upper part of the square tower is the motto of the Cliffords, " Desormais," in large letters cut out in stone, and forming a battlement. Little of the .original Norman building now remains, except a semicircular arch on square piers, forming the. western346
vicinity of skipton-sawlet abbey
doorway to the inner castle. The oldest parts of the castle are the round towers. These are connected by rectilinear .apartments, forming an irregular quadrangular court within; and their walls are said to be from nine to twelve feet thick. This part of the castle was built in the reign of Edward II., by Robert de Clifford. The eastern part was erected in the reign of Henry VIIL, in the short space of four or five months, by the first Earl of Cumberland, for the reception of his son and his wife, " the Lady Eleanor Brandon's grace." It consists of a range of building about 180 feet long, terminated by a large octangular tower. Our space does not admit of a detailed description of the interior, which is very interesting. The wainscot, with its fluted panels, and some of the furniture in the apartments raised by the first Earl of Cumberland, are probably nearly in their original condition. Several interesting family pictures exist here, though in an indifferent state of preservation. In the courtyard of the castle is a very large yew-tree, said to be 500 years old. Good views of the neighbouring scenery may be obtained from the front of the castle.
Among the noticeable public buildings of Skipton may be mentioned the Grammar School, the Graven Baths, a number of Dissenting Chapels, etc.
From Skipton the tourist may very conveniently visit Bolton Priory, and the classic scenery of Upper Wharfedale (p. 44). The distance from Skipton to Bolton Bridge is blx miles. On the way, at a short distance from the town, Skipton Rock, where limestone is extensively quarried, is passed on the left.
Ilkley, with its noted hydropathic establishments, is nine miles distant (pp. 48 and 201).
Sawley Abbey.—The ruins of Sawley Abbey are about 15 miles south-west from Skipton, on the border of the county, and can be approached, circuitously, by rail. They are picturesquely situated on the banks of the Ribble, close to the village of Sawley, and about three miles from the town of Clitheroe, in Lancashire. Sawley Abbey was founded in 1147 by William de Percy, for Cistercian monks. The remains present a good deal to interest the tourist, having been recently cleared of rubbish. The ruins of the church are particularly worthy of examination. It has been a plain cross without columns or side aisles. The east sideCIWALEDALE—STATIONS FOR EXPLORING IT.	347
of the transept has six small chapels, divided by partition walls, each having an altar and piscina remaining. The tile flooring of some of these chapels, and one or two ancient tombstones (the most important of which has an inscription to the memory of William de Rimington, chancellor of Oxford in 1372, and a great opponent of WyclifFe), will doubtless meet with the attention they deserve. The principal features of the choir and chapterhouse can easily be traced. The latter was probably the burial-place of the Percys ; but no remains of monuments to their memoiy can now be seen. The antiquarian tourist will be able to note the position and character of the conventual buildings without much difficulty. The gateway, which had been converted into a cottage, is now removed. The neighbourhood is picturesque. It may be mentioned here that about miles distant from Clithero is Brownsholme, a quaint building of the time of Henry VII., containing, among other interesting antiquities, the original silver seal of the Commonwealth. It is inscribed " Seal for the approbation of Ministers, " and has in the centre two branches of palm, with a bible between them.
SLINGSBY CASTLE. In the vicinity of Malton.
SPOFFORTH CASTLE. In the vicinity of Harrogate.
STUDLEY ROYAL. See Fountains Abbey.
SWALEDALE.
Stations for exploring the Dale—Catterick Bridge—BoIton-on-Swale—Marske— EOerton Abbey—Marrick Abbey—Reeth—Muker.
The Swale rises in the north-western moorlands close upon the borders of the county. During its long course it passes amid scenery of the most varied description, from the bleak and houseless heath, in which it has its origin, down to the broad rich valley in which it mingles its waters with those of the Ure to form the Ouse, not many miles above the city of York. Any spot of interest on its banks below Richmond is more or less accessible by rail. Above Richmond there is no public conveyance.
The tourist who may wish leisurely to survey the lower part of Swaledale may take for his head-quarters the village of Top-cliffe, 4 miles from Thirsk; Leeming, near a station of that348
swaledale—catterick bridge.
name, miles from Northallerton ; or Catterick Bridge, miles below Richmond. The town of Richmond itself is a highly convenient station for visiting the most interesting parts of the dale, including Easby Abbey, Catterick Bridge, etc. For the upper and wilder parts of the dale, Reeth and Muker will form convenient head-quarters.
The sceneiy of the lower parts of the dale is of a rich and peaceful character, but does not present any spots of much general interest till we reach Catterick Bridge.
Catterick Bridge [Inns: George and Dragon, Angel] is miles from Richmond, and from Dalton Junction. Antiquarians are agreed that this is the Cataractonium of the first, second, and fifth itinera of Antoninus.* The remains of the Romans here are very numerous and indisputable. Here, as in many other places, they have made their station on the site of an ancient British settlement. The origin of the name Catterick is variously explained; Professor Phillips making it Cathairrigh, " fortified city," while a writer in the "Archaeologia" is of opinion that the etymology is Caer-dar-ich, "the camp on the water." Cataractonium is simply the Latinized form of the British name.
The old Roman station is at Thornbrough, a quarter of a mile, distant. It has been partially examined by Sir William Lawson, Bart, of Brough Hall, in this neighbourhood, and will be found, at least by the antiquarian, well worthy of a visit. The station was a walled camp, with sides of 240 and 175 yards, containing an area of about nine acres. Sites of dwelling houses, tiled floors, fragments of pottery, coins, and other relics of the Romans, have been found here. A Roman altar, with an inscription which has been preserved by Camden, was discovered in 1620. Sir William Lawson possesses a singular bronze vessel, capable of containing twenty-four gallons, which was discovered at Thornbrough. There was a quantity of Roman coins in this vessel when it was discovered. Two lions sculptured in stone, and other relics, have also rewarded the researches which have been made here.
At the village of Catterick, a mile farther from Richmond, there has been another camp ; but it has not been ascertained by what people it was constructed. The churchyard of Catterick probably occupies the interior of this camp. There is an entrenchment on a hill about a mile to the south-east; and tumuli * See an account of these itinera at p. xii.bwaledale-bolton-the dale above richmond. 340
occur in the neighbourhood. The Roman road from Doncaster passes through the village and crosses the Swale at Catterick Bridge,-whence it proceeds due north to Pierse Bridge.
Bolton-on-Swale, about two miles from Catterick, on the other side of the stream from Richmond, from Scorton Station), is interesting as the burial place of Henry Jenkins, the oldest Englishman on record. He was born at Ellerton, in the neighbourhood, and died in 1670, at the age of 169 ! This remarkable instance of longevity is as well authenticated as such cases generally can be. His epitaph is worth quoting:—
" Blush not, marble, to rescue from oblivion the memory of Henry Jenkins, a person obscure in birth, but of a life truly memorable, for he was enriched with the goods of nature, if not of fortune, and happy in the duration, if not variety of his enjoyments; and, though the partial world despised and disregarded his low and humble state, the equal eye of Providence beheld and blessed it with a patriarch's health and length of days, to teach mistaken man these blessings were entailed on temperance, or a life of labour, and a mind at ease. He lived to the amazing age of one hundred and sixty-nine, was interred here, December 6, 1670, and had this justice done to his memory in 1743."
Easby Abbey, between four and five miles above Catterick Bridge, next claims the attention of the tourist. It has received a separate description (p. 121), as has also Richmond, a mile farther up (p. 281).
Swaledale, above Richmond, though it ha3 no spots of special interest on account of their antiquity and historical associations, possesses attractions of no ordinary kind to the tourist who loves to wander in scenes of wild and unfrequented beauty. In common with the other dales, it will reward the diligence of the botanist and geologist who may explore its windings and recesses. Should the tourist wish to spend a day or two in exploring some of the wildest moors in the county, he may find accommodation at Reeth, a small town, ten miles from Richmond. The. distance muBt be travelled either on foot or by special conveyance, as there is no omnibus or coach on this road. Keeping the road which lies along the course of the river, and crosses to the south bank about a mile from Richmond, the tourist will soon find himself amid some of the most delightful scenery in Swaledale. There are numberless points in this, the richer and more wooded part of the dale, that may well tempt the artist to pause and employ his pencil. The view of Marske Hall, finely embowered in trees, which meets the eye on the north bank about five or six350 swaledale-bllerton and marrick abbeys-beeth.
miles from Richmond, deserves more than, a passing reference ; and there are few tourists who will not linger on the bridge which here crosses the Swale, leading up the hill towards the pleasant hamlet of Marske.
Marske has a church with a Norman doorway, which will be worth notice, if the tourist should be tempted to go out of his way to visit this quiet little village. Here was born, in 1692, Dr. Matthew Hutton, Archbishop of Canterbury.
Keeping still on the southern bank of the Swale, the tourist soon reaches a more open part of the valley, where the features of rich and gentle beauty begin to change for those of wildness and grandeur. This change in the aspect of the dale begins to shew itself at Ellerton Abbey, about eight miles from Richmond and two from Reeth. Here are the tower and small remains of a priory of Gilbertine nuns. The house was founded in the reign of Henry II. by " Warnerius, dapifer to the Earl of Richmond." These ruins are somewhat picturesque.
Marrick Abbey, a mile nearer Reeth, and on the north bank of the river, has more to attract the artist than the ruin just mentioned. Here there was an establishment of Benedictine nuns, who seem to have been more prosperous in worldly matters than their sisters at Ellerton ; for, while the revenues of the former amounted, at the Dissolution, to £64 : 8 :9, those of the latter were only £14 : 8s. The nunnery was founded in the reign of King Stephen, by Roger de Aske, who dedicated it to the Virgin Mary. It was tenanted by seventeen nuns at the time of the Dissolution. The nave of the abbey chapel is used for divine worship, and, with several detached portions of the old walls, will possess some interest to the tourist. Another mile brings the traveller to Reeth.
Reeth [Inn: The Buclc\ may serve as a station for the tourist who wishes to devote some time to the examination of neighbouring scenery. This is a mining town, and may be considered the capital of upper Swaledale. The lead mines, which are worked in Arkendale, may be conveniently reached from Reeth, and will repay a visit.
At Fremington, in the immediate neighbourhood of the town, many ornaments of brass inlaid with silver have been found. There can be little doubt that these relics are of Roman manufacture. They are supposed to have belonged to the trappings of horses.TADCASTER.
351
Grinton, oil tlie other side of the Swale, has an ancient church. There is a curious cavern at the source of a brook which here joins the Swale.
Muker [Inn: King's Head] is a small market-town, nine miles farther up the valley. In its vicinity are Keasdon Force, well worth a visit, and higher up the stream Catrigg Force. There are also the Auld Gang lead mines, worked long before the invasion of the Romans. Over miles of country, to the north of Reeth and Muker, may be seen the mounds of spar and rock which tell of the industry of the rude Bri-gantian miners. Shrmnor Fell, a summit several miles west from Muker, is 2351 feet high, and holds the fourth place among the Yorkshire mountains. Lovely Seat, to the south of Muker, though scarcely so high, is more likely to repay an ascent. To a good pedestrian, who may wish to pass from Swaledale to Wensleydale, the wild mountain pass from Muker to Hawes offers great attractions. Another unfrequented but beautiful mountain-road passes out at the head of the dale, by Hollow-Mill Cross to Kirkby-Stephen in Westmoreland. The mountain streams in this part of the dale have their charms for the angler, and the moors for the sportsman, while both moor and stream afford pleasure to those who love nature in her wild-ness and solitude. But only they who can endure fatigue, and philosophically content themselves with such accommodation as the somewhat primitive people can afford, should undertake to explore this remote part of Upper Swaledale.
TADCASTER
lssB.—Londesborough Arms, Railway Hotel, Angel.
From York, 15J miles (by road 9 m.); Harrogate, 13J miles.
This town is believed by antiquarians to be the Calcaria of the Romans, both from its distance from York corresponding with that given by Antoninus in his Itinerary, and from the great abundance of limestone in its vicinity. Many coins of the Roman emperors have been dug up here. A castle existed here in former times; and it was out of its ruins that the handsome bridge which here crosses the Wharfe was built in the beginning of last century.
Tadcaster was the scene of several struggles between bodiet.352
tadcaster to boston spa.
of the Parliamentary and Royalist forces. Here Sir Thomas Fairfax, with only 900 men, kept at bay 4000 men under the Earl of Newcastle, during a contest which lasted from eleven in the morning till nightfall; and. then, under cover of the darkness, retreated to Selby.
The town is irregular, and built partly of stone and partly of brick. Its trade is unimportant, and its population is 2327, with 563 inhabited houses.
The Church, dedicated to St. Mary, is the principal building in the town. It ia a fine structure in the Perpendicular style, consisting of nave, aisles (extending the whole length of the church), chancel, and tower with battlement and pinnacles. The entrance is by a circular doorway at the west end, under the tower. The windows of the aisles are square headed, and of three lights ; and the clerestory windows are similar. The interior of the church is quaint and somewhat interesting. The chancel is divided from the nave by a high pointed arch. A painted altar-piece of the Last Supper nearly covers the east window. Among the monuments are one or two small and unimportant modern brasses. An old square pew of carved oak bears to have belonged " to their Graces the Duke and Duchess of Somerset"
There are three dissenting chapels in Tadcaster.
The railway crosses the Wharfe by a beautiful bridge a little above the town.
The walk from Tadcaster to Boston Spa is a pleasant one of about four miles. The pedestrian may follow a footpath on the right bank of the Wharfe till he reaches a private bridge, which crosses the river to a mansion on the other side. At this point he may leave the stream, and take to the high road, which is at a small distance to the left. About a mile from Tadcaster, Newton Hall, the seat of the Fairfax family, will be observed on the right, through a long avenue of fine trees. A little farther on, a road on the right leads to Newton Kyme Church, a picturesque old edifice, pleasantly situated. Nothing else calls for notice in the remaining two miles which bring the traveller to Thorpe Arch or Boston Spa (p. 74).
Bramham, four miles distant from Tadcaster, has been already described (p. 74), as has also the scenery of interest between that place and Harewood (p. 76). From Bramham Moor the tourist may proceed, by a walk of about three miles,teesdale-stockton.
353
to Barwick-in-Elmet, iii the neighbourhood of which axe some interesting earthworks, believed to be an early British camp.
TEESDALE.
Stations for exploring the Dale—Stockton-upon-Tees—Yarm—Croft—Pierse Bridge —Barford—Wyeliffe—Greta Bridge— Rokeby—Athelstan Abbey—Barnard Castle —Deepdale—Laxtington—Cotherston—Ronaldkirk—High Force—Caldron Snout —Mickle Fell
The Tees belong as much to Durham as to Yorkshire, forming the boundary between the two counties throughout its entire course from the extreme western point where they meet, to the ocean. The plan and limits of this work admit of an account of only those scenes and places of interest which are upon the Yorkshire side of the river. Tourists who wish to visit places on the other side, and in the adjacent parts of Durham, will find the information they require in other hand-books.
The most interesting part of Teesdale, including Rokeby, Greta Bridge, Bowes, etc., may be conveniently reached from Barnard Castle, an interesting town* on the Durham side of the Tees, 16 miles from Darlington by rail. Other places which may serve as stations for exploring Teesdale are—Middleton-in-Teesdale, also on the Durham side, to which coaches run twice a day from Barnard Castle (a distance of ten miles), and High Force Inn, about 5 miles farther up the valley—from either of which upper Teesdale may be explored ; and Croft Bridge, for the lower part of the dale.
Below Croft there is not much interesting scenery. The country through which the river flows is rich but level. Towards the mouth of the river there are many signs of commercial and manufacturing activity. Especially is this the case at Mid-dlesborough (see p. 261*). Higher up the stream is Stockton, about one-fourth of which is in Yorkshire. It is a place of considerable antiquity, although the early history of the town is lost in obscurity. It is handsome and well-built, and an important seaport, possessing every facility for the transit and exportation of the mineral products and manufactures of the surrounding
* Few tourists will require to be reminded that Scott's poem of " Rokeby" opens in the old castle from which this town takes its name. See an account of the for* tress in the notes to that poem.
2 A354 teesdale-stockton-barford-wycliffe.
coal and iron districts. The registered vessels belonging to the port amounted to 30, in 1870, with a tonnage of 4264 tons. It returns a representative to Parliament. Its population in 1871 was 37,467, shewing an increase since last census of 21,008. Besides its shipping, Stockton possesses numerous and extensive manufactories of engines, linen, and sail-cloth, iron and brass foundries, etc. Its public buildings are numerous. There is a race-course on the Yorkshire 6ide of the Tees, on which races are held at stated times.
A few miles above Stockton is Yabm, a small town in a low situation, liable to inundations. Its trade is unimportant. The church, which was rebuilt in 1730, has a beautiful window of stained glass. A fine cast-iron bridge here crosses the Tees.
The next place of interest reached in ascending the stream is Choft, a pleasant village, resorted to for its mineral waters, and possessing an old church of some interest (see p. 110). Should the tourist not care to follow the windings of the river for the next seven or eight miles, up to Pierse Bridge, he may here avail himself of the railway. At Pierse Bridge the great Boman road from London to the Forth crosses the Tees. Here there is a tumulus on the Yorkshire side, and a small square camp on the opposite bank.
At Barford, rather more than a mile above Pierse Bridge, and opposite Gainford (from which it may be reached by a feny, should the tourist prefer to go by the Durham side), is the site of an old monastery, called St. Mary's Abbey, some ruins of which still remain. The principal remains are those of the church. Several tower-shaped pigeon-houses that belonged to the abbey are still in a good state of preservation.
Wycliffe.—From Barford a delightful walk of about two miles will bring the traveller to Ovington, where there are the remains of a small camp. Here was once a priory of Gilbertine canons, founded in the reign of King John ; but no traces of it now TP.mfl.iTi- A mile farther is the beautifully situated hamlet of Wycliffe. It is 5 miles from Barnard Castle, 2£ from Greta Bridge, and about 3 from the Winston Station. Views of great extent and beauty may be had from various points in the neighbourhood, particularly from one of the woodland paths near Wycliffe Hall, a handsome residence surrounded by fine grounds.
This place derives its great interest to the tourist from its having given birth, in the year 1324, to John ile Wycliffe, theteesdale-wycliffe church.
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" Morning Star of the Reformation." His translation, of the Bible was finished in 1383. He died in the following year at Lutterworth, in. the county of Leicester. Such was the influence which the writings of Wycliffe exerted in England, that one of his enemies complained that " a man could not meet two persons on the road, but one was a Wycliffite." The Council of Constance, in. 1415, condemned Wycliffe as a heretic, and ordered his bones to be taken up and burned. The sentence was not executed till thirteen years afterwards. " The enemies of Wycliffe," says Fuller, " thought, by burning his bones and scattering them in the Swift, they should destroy his' name and doctrine. But no ! The Swift carried them into the Avon, the Avon into the Severn, the Severn into the ocean, and the ocean round the world." Wycliffe's translation of the Bible was first printed entire at Oxford, in. 1850.
Many of the family of the reformer are buried in Wycliffe Church. This is a very picturesque and interesting edifice. It was thoroughly restored in 1850 by the late incumbent, the venerable Archdeacon Headlam. In the interior are several interesting old monumental brasses, one of them in. memory of the last member of the family of Wycliffe. A sepulchral stone, bearing a fine foliated cross, is built into the south wall of the church. In the Rectory there is an original portrait of Wycliffe by Sir Antonio a-More. It is preserved as an heirloom in the rectory, and handed down from one incumbent to another.
From Wycliffe the footpath by the river side will .bring the tourist, by a walk of two miles, to the junction of the Greta with the Tees, where he enters the classic domain of Rokeby. The carriage road goes round by Greta Bridge, where, at the Mor-ritt Arms Inn, guides may be obtained for the grounds, which are open every day in the week except Sunday. These interesting grounds are described at length elsewhere in this work (p. 301). The camp at Greta Bridge should not be overlooked ; neither, if the tourist can spare the time, should he fail to ascend the Greta to Brignall, with its romantically situated church, and its bold scenery, and to Scargill Cliff—both celebrated in " Rokeby " (see p. 305). From Scargill a country road goes northward to Barnard Castle, crossing the ancient Roman way from Greta Bridge to Bowes. Here, by turning to the right towards Greta Bridge, the tourist will soon reach a point whence he may strike across to the road lying along the bank of the356 TEESDALE-THE VIEW FROM BARNARD CASTLE.
Tees. He "will gladly linger awhile on the Ajbbet Bridge (p. 301); then, resuming his journey, still on the Yorkshire side, a walk of a few minutes more will bring him to Athelstan Abbey, interesting not merely on account of its remains of an ancient monastery, but as the closing scene of " Rokeby"
From Athelstan Abbey to Barnard Castle [Inns: King's Head, Mrs. Harrison—Bed Is., breakfast Is. 9d., dinner 2s., tea Is. 6d.; Rose and Crown; Angel; Turk's Head; Bay Horse] the distance is a mile and a half. Barnard Castle, as has been observed already, forms a convenient station for the examination of the most interesting part of Teesdale. Sir Walter Scotfs word-picture of Teesdale, as seen from Barnard Castle, may be appropriately quoted here :—
" What prospects, from his watch-tower high, Gleam gradual on the warder's eye !— Far sweeping to the east, he sees Down his deep woods the course of Tees, And tracks his wanderings by the steam Of summer vapours from the stream; And ere he pace his destined hour By Brackenbury's dungeon-tower These silver mists shall melt away, And dew the woods with glittering spray. Then in broad lustre shall be shown That mighty trench of living stone, And each huge trunk that, from the side, Reclines him o'er the darksome tide, Where Tees, full many a fathom low, Wears with his rage no common foe; For pebbly bank, nor sand-bed here, Nor clay-mound, checks his fierce career, Condemned to mine a channell'd way, ,0'er solid sheets of marble gray.
Nor Tees alone, in dawning bright, Shall rush upon the ravish'd sight; But many a tributary stream Each from its own dark dell shall gleam: Staindrop, who, from her sylvan bowers, Salutes proud Raby*B battled towers; The rural brook of Eglistone, And Balder, named from Odin's son; And Greta, to whose banks ere long We lead the lovers of the song; And silver Lune, from Stanmore wild, And fairy ThorsgUl's murmuring child, And last and least, but loveliest still, Romantic Deepdale's slender rill."teesdale-deep dale-romaldkirk.
357
From Barnard Castle the railway is available to Bowes, the Lavatrce of the Romans, the site of a Norman keep, and the birth and burial place of " lldwin and Emma," who died for love, and were buried in the same grave (p. 78). The distance is 4 miles. Rere Cross, 4 or 5 miles farther west, has a large Roman camp, and the remains of a stone cross of some interest (p. 79).
From Barnard Castle there is a coach twice a day to Middle-ton-in-Teesdale, a small town'10 miles distant on the Durham side. This town the tourist will find a convenient resting-place, after visiting the various scenes of interest between Barnard Castle and this point. The Yorkshire side of the Tees is still followed in our survey of the dale.
About half a mile above Barnard Castle, the Tees is joined by " romantic Deepdale's slender rill." This charming glen is well worth exploring throughout its whole length, or at least as far as Cat Castle, a lofty rock several miles up the valley. From this rock a beautiful and extensive view of the dale, Barnard Castle, and the Cleveland hills, is obtained. A little above Cat Castle there is a picturesque waterfall. Near this spot a footpath strikes off to the right towards the pretty rural village of Lartington, which is about a mile above Barnard Castle. Lartington Hall has an interesting museum, to which the public are admitted.
Two miles above Lartington is the hamlet of Cotherston, which has near it, on a steep promontory called the Hagg, overlooking the junction of the Balder and the Tees, the small remains of an old keej) of the Fitzhughs, anciently the lords of these parts. The lower part of Baldersdale is richly wooded.
Romaldkirk is two miles farther up the river. The village is charmingly situated, and possesses a very fine and interesting church. It is in the early English style, dating from the twelfth century, and occupies the place of a still older edifice. In the interior there is an ancient monument, with the effigy of a crusader in chain armour, to the memory of a Lord Fitzhugh. There is a fine old piscina in the wall of the chancel. The parish of Romaldkirk is of great extent, including all Upper Teeadale from a little above Barnard Castle, with the smaller dales that branch off from it.
From RnmaTdkirk the road lies through a wilder and less interesting district, passing the small hamlets of Mickleton and358
teesdale-high t0rce—caldron snout.
Lonton, beyond the latter of which, a handsome bridge spans the Tees, leading to the town of Middleton-in-Teesdale.
The attractions of Teesdale are not exhausted. From Middle-ton the adventurous tourist may proceed to visit the celebrated cataracts of High Force and Caldron Snout, and the other wild and striking scenes in the head of the dale. High Farce Inn, five miles above Middleton, is a convenient station for those who wish to pass a day or two in Upper Teesdale. On the way thither there are some striking" views, especially at "Winch Bridge, where the river rushes impetuously through a rocky gorge. The bridge here, which is a suspension one, is said to be the earliest of the kind in Europe. Here the botanist may pick up, among other plants—Equisetum variegatum, Galium Boreale, Melampyrum tylvaticum, Pyrus Aria, Polygonum viviparum, Potentilla alpestris, etc. The hamlet of Holwick, somewhat strikingly situated near this place, is worth a look in passing.
High Force is near the inn which bears its name. Like all other cataracts, its effect is greatly heightened when the river is in high flood ; but at any time this is a very striking spectacle. The water falls, in three leaps, a height of sixty-nine feet, usually in one great body of water, but in floods filling another channel, down which in dry weather only a Blender rill trickles. The basaltic character of the rock is very marked, the effect of the heat of the trap being shewn both by the shale below it and the limestone above it. The manner in which the rock is split adds very much to the effect of this grand scene. Here may be found the Arbutus uva-ursi, Festuca vivipara, and Sesleria ccerulea.
Caldron Snout is five miles above High Force. On the way will be passed Cronkley Scar, a*Wty and picturesque precipice on the Yorkshire side of the Tees. Here, again, the geologist may observe the effect of the trap rock upon the limestone which has been crystallized by the contact, and easily disintegrates into sand. The surface of the rock nourishes Cistus marifolius, Hippocrepis comosa, Arenaria- vema, Helianthemum eanum, and Drala incana. In this neighbourhood may also be found Carex capillaris, Polygala uliginosa, and Woodsia ilvensis.
Caldron Snout is not so much visited as it deserves to be. The Tees, which has above this point been expanding in a broad placid pool called the "Weel. here throws itsell over a cliff of greenstone, dashing from rock to rock in a descent of 200 feet,TEESDALE-MICKLE FELL.-THIRSK.	359
forming a cataract which, for wild grandeur, is scarcely surpassed in England.
A singular break in the rocks, five miles higher up, called High Cup Nick, may be visited by the tourist, if not over fatigued with the excursion thus far. From about this point there are magnificent views across the vale of Eden.
Ere bidding farewell to Teesdale, some tourists will probably wish to make the ascent of Mickle Fell, which here raises its lofty summit on the border of the county. This is the highest of the Yorkshire mountains, being 2600 feet above the level of the sea. The ascent from High Force Inn is long, but not difficult ; and the view from its summit will compensate the tourist for any fatigue which the walk may give him. The eye sweeps over an extensive and varied tract of country. Westward is the Vale of Eden, with the grand forms of the Cumbrian Alps beyond. Northward is the head of the Tees, the Weel, Caldron Snout, and the wild scenery adjoining. Eastward extends a sloping expanse of country, hollowed here and there by a moorland glen, which contributes its little stream to the Tees on the one side, or its tributary, the Lune, on the other. Southward is Lunedale, and many a wild and dreary fell, whose names, and those of the glens below, tell of the times when long-forgotten Scandinavian warriors rendered famous with the prowess of their arms these remote solitudes.
" Beneath the shade the Northmen, came, Fixed on each dale a Runic name, Beared high their altar's rugged stone, And gave their gods the lands they won."
THTRSK.
Inns.—Golden Fleece, Three Tuns, Black Lion, Red Bear, etc.
Distances.
From York, 22£ miles ; Northallerton, 7}; Ripon, 10; Harrogate, 21.
Thirsk is a very irregular and picturesque town, built wholly of brick. The market place has a number of old houses encroaching upon it, the antique though ugly aspect of which, taken in conjunction, doubtless, with the vested rights of their occupants, has hitherto preserved them from being swept away as a nuisance. Of late years the town has considerably increased; yet, though within a mile of the railway, it has still much of the quiet, old-world aspect about it. In former times there used to be a Rood360
thirsk—the church.
deal of hand-loom weaving here ; "but, since the introduction of machinery, this has almost entirely ceased. The town is now noted for its manufacture of leather and saddlery. Thirsk derives a good deal of its importance, also, from having a representative in Parliament, and being the polling-place of the North Riding. The population is 5735, and the inhabited houses 1300.
The Church, a handsome structure of considerable antiquity, dedicated to St. Mary, is said to have been built out of the ruins of the old castle of Roger de Mowbray, which stood at the southwestern extremity of the town, and was destroyed by orders of Henry II. The architecture of the different parts of the building is not uniform, but the prevailing style is the Perpendicular. The tower has buttresses at its angles, and is battlemented at its summit with open work. It is adorned with many quaint monsters. An inscription in the interior informs us that " this chancel was repaired, a.d. 1844, by Lord Walsingham and Sir Robert Frank-land Russell, Bart, in memory of a beloved wife and daughter, who was suddenly taken from them after three days' illness, and by whom, and her four sisters, the altar window was painted." The east window here referred to is of five lights, and reflects great credit upon the five sisters who painted it. Thfc communion table is a piece of old carved oak work, said to have originally belonged to Byland Abbey. Some of the pews have quaint carving. The cover to the font, in carved tabernacle work, was originally 21 feet high, but some ignorant church-wardens cut it short, as it did not harmonize with their views of proportion. In the south wall of the chancel there are three sedilia and a piscina.
The church is pleasantly situated. From a tombstone in the churchyard, we quote a deprecatory address to the passer by:—
" Kind reader, stop; be on thy guard, Censure me not, nor judge me hard; The time will come when thou must die— Thou hast thy faults as well as I: If from transgressions thou art free, Then take a stone, and cast at me."
There are, in addition to the parish church, chapels belonging to various bodies of dissenters. The environs of the town are pleasant. At Topcliffe, a village four miles distant, Henry Percy, Earl of Northumberland, and lieutenant of the county, is said to have been beheaded by the mob, during a popular commotion, in the reign of Henry YILWAKEFIELD-BATTLE OF WAKEFIELD.
361
From Thirsk there is ready access to all the different lines of railway communication. A branch from the main line, diverging here to the south-west, gives direct access to Ripon (10 miles), Harrogate (21), and Leeds (39). From Pilmoor Junction, 6 miles to the south, there is a short branch leading westward to Boroughbridge, bringing the tourist within a mile and a half of Aldborough and its interesting Roman remains; and from the same point there is a branch going eastward, through a very interesting district, to Malton (30 miles), whence the tourist may proceed to Whitby, Scarborough, Driffield, or Hull.
WAKEFIELD.
Hotels.—The Strafford Arms, The George, The Royal, Woolpack, BuU.
Distances.
From Leeds, 12J miles; York, 42; Manchester, 47; London, 175.
Wakefield, one of the handsomest towns in the West Riding, is beautifully situated on the left bank of the river Calder. The name is probably derived from that of its original Saxon possessor. In Domesday Book we find it called Wachefeld. Fuller informs us that it was called " Merry Wakefield," remarking, " What peculiar cause of mirth this town hath above others I do not know, and dare not too curiously inquire, lest I should turn their mirth among themselves into anger against me." Whitaker is bolder than Fuller, finding one cause of the merriment in " the great abundance of barley grown, and of malt manufactured, in the neighbourhood." The most important event in the history of this town is the bloody battle fought in its neighbourhood between Margaret of Anjou and Richard Plantagenet, Duke of York.
This battle was fought 31st December 1460. Margaret of Anjou had entered England, and succeeded in collecting a considerable army in the north, in support of the claims of her son Edward, Prince of Wales, to succeed to the throne of his father Henry VI. It will be recollected that in the attempted reconciliation of the two houses, it was arranged that, on the death of Henry "VI., Richard, Duke of York, should succeed to the throne of England. The Queen having taken up arms in behalf of her son, the Duke of York marched northwards to frustrate her designs. Reaching Wakefield, he found that the Queen's army was far superior to his own, and accordingly he retired to the.862
"WAKEFIELD-EMINENT NATIVES.
Castle of Sandal, which, along -with the manor of Wakefield, had descended to him from his uncle, Edward, Earl of Rutland. Without waiting for his expected reinforcements, he risked battle, hoping by skill and daring to make up for deficiency in numbers. The Duke's forces were entirely routed, and himself and his second son, the Earl of Rutland, slain.
-" York himself, before his castle gate,
Mangled with wounds, on his own earth lay dead; Upon whose body CliTord down him sate, Stabbing the corpse, bad cutting off the head, Crowned it with paper, and to wreake his teene, Presents it so to his victorious queene."—Drayton.
We need hardly remind the reader of Shakspeare of the admirable use which that great poet has made of the historical facts of this battle in the third part of " King Henry VI." The manor of Whitehall, after the death of the Duke of York, came to the crown in the person of his son, Edward IY. Richard III. is said to have resided in Sandal Castle for some time after his accession to the throne. The manor was united to the duchy of Lancaster in 1554. After various changes and transmissions, it is now the property of the Duke of Leeds.
Wakefield, or its immediate neighbourhood, has been the birthplace of a number of eminent men. Dr. John Burton, author of the " Monasticon Eboracense, and Ecclesiastical History of Yorkshire," was born here in 1697, and died in 1771. John Potter, Archbishop of Canterbury, author of " The Antiquities of Greece," was born in 1674, and died in 1747. Richard Bentley, the celebrated classical critic, was born at Oulton, a few miles distant, in 1661, and died in 1742. Joseph Bingham, author of " Origines Ecclesiasticse, or Antiquities of the Christian Church," was born in 1668, and died in 1723. Wakefield also claims as her own Dr. John Radcliffe, founder of the Radcliffe Library in the University of Oxford; Richard Fleming, founder of Lincoln College, Oxford; and Dr. Thomas Touch, a learned divine.
The population of Wakefield at the census of 1871 was 28,079, and. the inhabited houses 5632. The increase since 1861 was only 4729 persons, and 859 houses. Formerly the manufacture of woollen cloth and worsted yarn was carried on here to a very large extent, insomuch that we find Leland saying, " It etandith now al by clothyng." This is no longer the case : the chief trade at present is in. corn, wool, and cattle ; thoughwakefield-the parish church-the chantry. 363
the woollen cloth trade, as well as the spinning of woollen and worsted yam, is still carried on to some extent. There are coal mines in the neighbourhood, which,'in addition to supplying the consumption of the district, yield enough tb allow of large exportation. Wakefield returns one member to Parliament.
The town is well built, the streets being in general regular and spacious, and the houses (mostly of brick) large and handsome. It possesses many public edifices deserving of notice.
The Parish Church, dedicated to All Saints, is a spacious and lofty structure, consisting of nave, aisles, chancel, and spire. Mention is made of two churches in Domesday Book, as existing in Wakefield and " its nine Berewicks;" but the present building manifestly cannot lay claim to so much antiquity. Its oldest parts appear to belong to the time of Henry III. The south front was rebuilt in 1724; and towards the close of the century the greater part of the north side, and the east end, were also rebuilt. The church is 156 feet long, and 69 broad. It has an elegant square tower, adorned with battlements and pinnacles, and surmounted by a very lofty and beautiful octagonal spire. This spire was restored after the style of the original one, which was elegantly crocketed, in 1861, at an expense of .£5000. The interior of the church is very handsome. The nave is divided from the aisles by clustered pillars supporting pointed arches, and from the chancel by a lofty and beautiful screen. Our space does not admit of a detailed account of the monuments in this church, some of which will be found to be interesting. Besides the parish church there are the churches of St. John, Trinity, St. Mary, St. Andrew, Thorns, and St. Michael, the last of which was consecrated in 1861.
The Bridge over the Calder was built in the reign of Edward III. On it there is a very beautiful Gothic chapel called the Chantry. It is said to have been erected by Edward IV., in memory of his father, Kichard, Duke of York, and his followers, who fell in the battle of Wakefield. This very interesting structure, after being long used as an office and lumber-room, was a few years ago restored to purposes more in accordance with the intentions of its founder, being employed as a chapel of ease to the church. The tourist will find it well worthy of examinar tion. It is about 30 feet long and 24 wide. The windows are adorned with beautiful tracery. The west front of the building, facing the passage over the bridge, surpasses all the other parts364 "vicinity op wakefield-heath-stanley hall.
in profusion of ornament. It is " divided by buttresses into compartments forming recesses, with crocketed pediments and pointed arches, having spandrils enriched with crockets; and above is an entablature, supporting five basso-relievos, the whole being crowned with battlements."
There are various dissenting chapels in Wakefield ; but none of them are of much architectural importance.
Of other Public Buildings we may mention the Com Exchange, erected in 1837, and greatly enlarged in 1862, the largest in England, after Mark Lane; the Market Cross, an elegant open colonnade of the Doric order, siipporting a dome, in the interior of which is a spacious room, lighted from the top, formerly used for the transaction of the public business of the town ; the Church Institution, a handsome building in the decorated Gothic style, erected in 1861; the Theatre, the Wakefield Proprietary School, a Lunatic Asylum, Almshouses, and Hospital, and the Free Grammar School. The last-named institution was founded in 1592, by Queen Elizabeth, but has been subsequently much improved by private benefactions. Several eminent natives of Wakefield were educated here ; among them Archbishop Potter, Dr. John Radcliffe, and Dr. Richard Bentley.
There is a new Cemetery, very elegantly laid out, a short distance from the town on the way to the village of H'eath.
VICINITY OF WAKEFIELD.
Wakefield has in its vicinity several places which will repay a visit.
The village of Heath, about two miles to the east, is on a fine eminence on the south side of the Calder. This is one of the most delightfully situated villages in England. Heath Hall, on the other side of the river, is an elegant castellated building of some antiquity.
Stanley Hall, farther down the Calder, but about the same distance from Wakefield, is the spot famed in ancient story, where Robin Hood, Scarlet, and John, had a contest with the "jolly Pinder" of Wakefield.
" ' Now turn again, turn again,' said the Pinder, ' For a wrong way you have gone ;
For you have forsaken the king's highway, And made a path over the corn.'VICINITY OF WAKEFIELD-NOSTAL PRIORY-SANDAL CASTLE. 36ft
" ' 0 that were a shame,' said jolly Robin, ' We being three, and thou but one." The Pinder leapt bacx then thirty good foot. 'T was thirty good foot and one
*' He leaned his back tast unto a thorn, And his foot against a stone, And there he fought a long summer's day,
A summer's day so long, Till that their swords on their broad bucklers Were broke fast into their hands.
" ' O wilt thou forsake the Pinder his craft, And go to the greenwood with met Thou shalt have a livery twice in the year, The one green, the other brown.'
" ' If Michaelmas day was come and gone, And my master had paid me my fee, Then would I set as little by him, As my master doth by me.'"
Nostal Priory, about four miles from Wakefield, and two from the Crofton station, was the site of a priory for canons regular of the order of St. Augustine, founded in 1121. This mansion, the seat of Charles Winn, Esq., is chiefly interesting as possessing Holbein's largest and most celebrated painting, Sir Thomas More and his Family. The picture is eleven feet wide by nine high. Dr. Waagen* " came unwillingly to the conclusion that this is nothing more than an early copy." The figures are well arranged and finely painted. Sir Thomas More is in the centre, seated, dressed in a furred coat, and with the chancellor's chain. The names and ages of all the persons introduced (eleven in number, and the size of life) are inscribed over them. In other apartments there are several good paintings by William Van der Velde, Jacob Ruysdael, Robert Yan der Hoeck, Jan Miel, Carel Dujardin, Guercino, Gerritz Van Herp, Jan Wynants, F. Dicker, and others.
Sandal Castle, two miles to the south, derives its interest from the battle of Wakefield which was fought in its vicinity, an account of which has already been given. The remains of this fortress are very insignificant, consisting chiefly of some small fragments of grout work and hillocks of rubbish. The castle was erected, in 1320, by John, the eighth and last Earl of Warren, on whose death without issue it came, along with his other
* " Treasures of Art in Great Britain," vol ill, p. 836,366 vicinity of wakefield-dewsbuey-batley.
estates, to the crown. John Baliol is said to have resided here for a time previous to his marching to Scotland as the vassal of Edward III. The castle was dismantled by order of the Parliament in 1646. The moat by which it was defended is still deeply marked.
Walton Hall, not far from Sandal, deserves to be mentioned here, as the residence of the well-known naturalist and traveller, Charles Waterton, author of " Wanderings in South America," etc., and three series of " Essays on Natural History." Mr. Waterton has here a menagerie, aviary, etc.*
Dewsbury, about 6 miles distant (12 by rail), is of considerable importance in ecclesiastical, though not in civil annals. Paulinus is said to have preached Christianity to the Saxons here about the year 626. The church is interesting, and some of the streets have a quaint antique aspect. There is a considerable manufacture here of heavy and fancy woollens. The town obtained a municipal charter in 1862. At the census of 1871, the population was 54,943, being an increase since 1861 of 36,795 persons. It is now represented in Parliament.
Batley, a mile from Dewsbury, is the great centre of the shoddy manufacture. " Shoddy " is the name given to old woollen rags, which are torn into fragments by machines called " devils," spun into yarn, and woven again into cloth. Eags are brought from all parts of Europe, and, after undergoing the transformation of the shoddy mills, are again sent forth to do service as new and fashionable fabrics. " The trade or occupation of the late owner," remarks Sir George Head in his " Home Tour," " his life and habits, or the filthiness and antiquity of the garment itself, oppose no bar to this wonderful process of regeneration ; whether from the scarecrow or the gibbet it makes no difference ; so that, according to the changes of human affairs, it no doubt frequently does happen, without figure of speech or metaphor, that the identical garment to-day exposed to the sun and rain in a Kentish cherry orchard, or saturated with tobacco smoke on the back of a beggar in a pot house, is doomed in its turn,' perfusis liquidis odoribus,' to grace the swelling collar, or add dignified proportion to the chest of the dandy." It is a municipal borough.
Apart from its shoddy mills, Batley is of no interest to the tourist. The manufacture is carried on in some other small towns in the neighbourhood. The population of Batley is 20,868.
* For a well-written notice of this venerable naturalist, see the "National Review" for October 1867.WENSLEYPALE—THE URE BELOW COVERDALE.
367
WENSLEYDALE.
Stations for exploring the Dale—Aldborough to Bipon—Ripon to Jervaux—Cover-ham Abbey—Middleham—Spennithorne—Leyburn—Wensley—Wensley to Bolton Castle—Aysgarth—Askrigg—Bainbridge—Simmer Water— Hawes—Har-draw Force—Hell Becks—Mountain Roads to Wharfedale and Swaledale. A railway has lately been completed from Hawes Junction on the Settle and Carlisle line to Leyburn on the North-Eastern line.
Wensleydale is the name given to the dale traversed by the Ure, from its source on the western boundary of the county to Jervaux Abbey. Like the other dales of Yorkshire, it presents in its different parts scenery of the most varied description. Some of the views which will reward the tourist who explores this valley are unsurpassed by any of the kind in England.
Leyburn is a convenient station for exploring the lower and more interesting part of Wensleydale. For the upper and wilder portion of the dale, either Askrigg or Hawes is available.
The Ure joins with the Swale to form the Ouse a little below Aldborough, the Isurium of the Romans. This interesting settlement and its neighbourhood have been already described (p. 38). Six or seven miles farther up the stream the tourist reaches the cathedral city of Ripon (p. 291), whence, after surveying its fine old minster, he may visit the neighbouring Abbey of Fountains (p. 134), one of the most beautiful and interesting monastic ruins in the kingdom. From Ripon a coach is available daily to Middleham, two miles from Leyburn, which may be reached by rail from Dalton Junction.
There is a good deal of beautiful sceneiy on or near the banks of the Ure between Ripon and Jervaux Abbey. The grounds of Hackfall are especially delightful, and Swinton has also considerable attractions (pp. 298, 299). The ecclesiologist will doubtless pause for a little at the pleasant village of MasttaMj 10 miles from Ripon, to look at its interesting church (p. 299). Then onward, for 5 miles more, through a fertile and well-wooded country, to the picturesque ruins of the old Cistercian Abbey of Jervaux (p. 210), where Wensleydale proper begins.
Coverham Abbey.—A mile beyond Jervaux is the village of East Witton, which has a neat modern church. A short distance from this village the road crosses the Cover, which here joins the Ure. In the secluded valley traversed by this stream are the remains of Coverlmm Abbey. This was a prioiy of368 wensleydale-coverham abbey-leyburn
Premonstratensian canons, originally founded at Swainby, in ] 190, by Helewysia, daughter and heiress of Ralph Glanville, Lord Chief-Justice of England, but BUDsequently removed to its present position by her son. Scarcely anything is recorded regarding the history of this monastic institution. At the Dissolution its gross annual revenues amounted to .£207 :14 : 7.
The remains of this abbey are not extensive, yet there is enough left of the old fabric to induce the tourist to linger a little by this wild mountain stream, even though the dale had no other associations. The abbey adjoins a handsome modern residence, in the walls of which axe many of its spoils. The principal remains are, a beautiful semicircular-arched gateway, still entire, at some distance from the house, and three piers of the nave of the abbey church, with handsome arches, evidently belonging to the latter part of the thirteenth century. The outline of the church can be traced, as can also those of the quadrangular cloister court and some other conventual buildings. There are three monumental effigies preserved here; two of them the figures of Crusaders in armour, almost perfect, the third a mere torso.
In this dale, in the year 1487, was born Miles Coverdale, the English reformer, and Bishop of Exeter. His translation of the Bible was published at Oxford in 1535. He died in 1580.
The road up Coverdale leads through a mountain pass, under Great Whernside to Kettlewell, in Wharfedale. There are beautiful views from various points on this road.
Still keeping on the south bank of the Ure, a walk of two miles will bring the tourist to Middleham Castle, the stronghold of "the last of the Barons" (p. 260). From the high ground here there is a fine view of the valley below. Opposite is the hamlet ofc Spennithorne, the birth-place of John Hutchinson, the author of " Moses's Principia," a work written in opposition to Sir Isaac Newton. A collection of fossils made by Hutchinson, who was the son of a Wensleydale yeoman, is now in the museum of the University of Cambridge. Here, too, was born Hatfield, the lunatic, who made himself famous by shooting at George the Third.
From Middleham the road descends the bill and crosses the Ure. About a mile farther on Leyburn is reached.
Letburn.
[Inns: Bolton Arms, John Ridley—King's Head; Crown;wjensleydale—leyburn—wensley.
369
Golden Sheaf; Oddfellows' Arms. From Northallerton, 18 miles ; Richmond, 8 ; Ripon, 21]—is on the northern side of the Ure, two miles from Middleham. In itself, this small town is uninteresting, the houses being respectable, but not calling for particular notice. The principal edifice is the town-hall, a large and heavy, but substantial building, erected, as an unnecessarily large inscription shews, in 1856. Leyburn will afford convenient and comfortable headquarters to the tourist who may wish to spend a day or two in exploring the beauties of the lower part of Wensleydale; and now that it can be easily and rapidly reached by railway, it will probably be oftener visited than it has hitherto been. Hie parish church is at Wensley, a mile and a half distant, but a plain chapel has been lately built here.
The Shawl, a high natural terrace about a mile long, to the west of the town, affords a delightful walk. The views obtained from this walk are of such exquisite beauty, that probably most tourists will acknowledge that it would be worth while to go a good many miles out of their way to see such a landscape. The Shawl commands such a view as can be seen only in Yorkshire, and in Wensleydale. The broad, extensive vale lies spread out below, charmingly wooded, and divided, by hedgerows and walls, into meadows and fields of com and green crops. On the higher ground beyond is a long tract of moorland, that part of the heights opposite to the Shawl being famous as the training ground of many of the best race-horses in England. A little to the right, an eminence of somewhat peculiar appearance rises from the range of high ground on that side of the valley. This bold height is Penhill, an object of some interest to the geologist, being formed of a mass of gritstone, while the whole of this district consists of limestone. The view away in the distance, to the right, takes in the ruins of Bolton Castle; while to the left, is Middleham, the frowning old keep of the King-Maker. The centre of the view is not less pleasing. The wood, extending from the precipice at the feet of the tourist a good way down the hill-side, forms a fine foreground, while in the centre of the dale below lies the hamlet of Wensley, with its handsome church-tower, close upon Bolton Hall and its embowering woods.
Wensley.—This pretty village, which gives its name to the dale, occupies a beautiful and sheltered position on the north bank of the Ure, a mile and a half from Leyburn. The Church Is well worthy of a visit. It is a handsome building, belonging
2 b370 wensleydale-west witton-aysgarth force.
to different periods, the square tower being manifestly of much more recent erection than the body of the church. The choir is supposed to be of the time of Henry III., and the nave of the time of Henry VH. On the buttresses are sculptured the arms of Scroop, De la Pole, Fitzhugh, Neville, etc. The seat of Lord Bolton's family is inclosed and canopied by curious carved and gilt wood-work. Part of it originally belonged, as the carved inscription shews, to the chantry of Lords Scroop, in Easby Abbey Church, and was removed hither on the destruction of that edifice. There is a curious monumental brass in a stone in the floor, in front of the chancel. The flag over the Bolton seat, and the painted coat of arms suspended over the chancel screen, seem to be rather unfitting ornaments for a place of Christian worship.
In the vestry may be seen one of the oldest parish registers in England. The clerk will also point out some old sculptured stones, two ancient fonts, and other things worthy of the attention of the antiquarian.
Bolton Hall, the seat of Lord Bolton, is close to the village of Wensley. This handsome edifice was built in 1678, by the Marquis of Winchelsea, first Duke of Bolton, to whom the estate came by his marriage with a daughter of the last Lord Scroop of Bolton. It is surrounded by fine grounds.
West Witton, about 24 miles from Wensley, by the road which crosses the Ure, is a place of much antiquity, being mentioned in Domesday Book as among the possessions of Allan, Earl of Richmond. The church is an ancient edifice, probably of the reign of Henry I. A charming view of Wensleydale is to be had from the churchyard-
Five' miles above Leyburn, and about the same distance from Wensley, is Bolton Castle (p. 62), The way from the former place is by the Shawl, and fronl the latter by the pleasant grounds of Bolton Hall. Redmire (small inn here), a village possessing a church with a Norman doorway, is passed at a distance of about 3 miles from Wensley.
Leaving the village and old castle of Bolton, and arriving at the hamlet of Carperby, about 2 miles farther on, a road to the left will conduct the tourist to Aysgarth.
Aysgarth Force is a beautiful cascade in the neighbourhood of this village. The Ure here flows over an irregular bed of limestone, and is rapid and impetuous in its course. The effectwensleydale-askrigg-bainbridge.
371
of the fall varies at different times, from the difference in tho volume of the stream. " In floods," remarks Mr. Phillips, " it is a great, a mighty river, bursting with a prodigious effect through magnificent rocks ; but in droughts only a few gentle rills—the tears of the Naiads—run over the ledges of limestone." This waterfall, though not the highest, is perhaps, with its accessories of finely-wooded banks, one of the most beautiful in the county.
Aysgarth Church occupies a highly picturesque position above the rapids. The original structure dates from the reign of Henry III., but it has been for the most part rebuilt and thoroughly restored (1866). A new and finely proportioned chancel arch has been introduced, the clerestory has been raised, and a large and richly decorated east window lights the chancel, the whole of which is glazed with stained glass. The architect of the restoration, which has been most successfully accomplished, was Mr. Green of Portsmouth. A fine view of the river and the church is obtained from the bridge above the falls.
In Bishopdale, which here branches olf from the valley of the Ure, there is a " force," or waterfall, called Foss Gill.
Askrigg [Inns: King's Arms, Queen'a Arms] is about four miles farther up the dale, on the northern side of the stream. This small market town has " seen better days." Though now fallen into comparative decay, it is a place of great antiquity, and possesses an old church dedicated to St. Oswald, which may interest the tourist. Here there are also a grammar-school and alms-houses.
Half a mile from Askiigg, in a stream which here joins the Ure, is a beautiful waterfall called Millgill Force, 69 feet high. Half a mile farther up the same stream is another waterfall, not so high, but much more picturesque. Both of these forces are worthy of a visit from the tourist who finds himself at Askrigg. The scenery at the junction of the Ure with Mossbeck Fell is very striking.
On the opposite side of the Ure, and about a mile from Askrigg, is the village of Bainbridge. [ffose and Crown.]
Bainbridge is the site of the Roman military station of Bracchium, the name having been ascertained from an inscription discovered here, and preserved in Camden. The rampart of the camp, inclosing an area of about five acres, may be traced on the Borough Hill near the village. At the foot of the same eminence are the remains of foundations of buildings. A statue of372
wensleydale-ha.whs-habdraw force.
Aurelius Commodus, with an imperfect inscription, was found at Nappa, in the vicinity.
A curious custom prevails in this village of blowing a horn at ten o'clock every night, from Holyrood day to Shrovetide. This appears to be a remnant of the old forest laws, and may, with other uses, have been meant as a signal to the benighted traveller.
Following for two miles the road parallel to the course of the rivulet which here flows into the Ure, the tourist will reach Simmer Water, a small but beautiful lake, about 105 acres in extent. This lonely tarn, though much inferior to the lakes in the adjoining counties, is more picturesque than the similar one of Maiham Tarn, in the hill country above the head of Airedale. In former times the fishery of this lake was of some value, an old survey estimating it at forty shillings.
Hawes [Inn : The Grown] is situated four miles up the dale from Bainbridge. This small market town is mentioned, not on account of anything specially interesting to the tourist which it contains, but because it forms a convenient central point whence to diverge over the wild scenery in this district of Wensleydale, and the neighbouring moorlands and glens. In the neighbourhood of Hawes are- several beautiful waterfalls, on the two streams which here join the Ure from the north.
Hardraw Force, the chief of these, is a cascade of a very striking description. The stream of water has a clear fall of 99 feet into a natural amphitheatre, the walls of which are at least 100 feet high, and perfectly perpendicular. A rude stair leads down into this amphitheatre, which is about 100 feet broad and 400 long. When the stream is swollen by rains, the basin into which it falls is filled with spray, and this the sunshine often tinges with the hues of the rainbow. At times the fall, as viewed from the upper extremity of the chasm, has the appearance of a crystal pillar supporting the little wooden bridge, and groups of larches above it. This is a glen well deserving of the attention of the geologist.
The tourist who is fond of exploring the solitudes of savage moorlands may extend his excursion to the source of the Ure. Camden's description of this wilderness may be quoted as a conclusion to our notice of Wensleydale: "Where this country bordereth upon Lancashire, amongst the mountains, it is in most places so waste, solitary, unpleasant, and unsightly, so mute andPol)lLiLh.ed."by-j?L& G-BlackEdiriburgL,WHAEFBDALE-WHITBY.
373
still also that the borderers dwelling thereby have called certain rivulets creeping this way, Hell Becks.* But especially that about the head of the river Ure, which, having a bridge over it of one entire stone, falleth down such a depth that it striketh in a certain horror to as many as look down. And in this tract there be safe harbours for goats and deer, as well red as fallow, which for their huge bigness, with their ragged and branching horns, are most sightly."
From Hawes there is a mountain road going south to Ingle-ton and Lancashire, from which the hardy and adventurous pedestrian may strike off either into the head of Wharfedale, or into the head of Eibblesdale. From Askrigg there is a mountain road leading to Milker, in the upper part of Swaledale.
"WHARFEDALE.
For visiting the lower pait of Wharfedale the tourist will find Ilkley or Otley (see page 266) convenient stations ; and for the upper part odi the dale,, Bolton Bridge (see page 64).
WHITBY.
Hotels.
The Royal, West Cliff; Targe and: commanding; a wide sea view. The Crown, Flowergate. The Angel, Baxtergate; and several others on a smaller scale. Lodgings are to be had in all parts of the town.
Distances.
Prom York, 59 miles; Pickering, 24 ; Scarborough (by road) 21, (by rail) 56; Leeds, 84}; Manchester, 126}; Liverpool, 158 ; Birmingham, 183; London, 247}. The Post-Office is in Baxtergate.
Whitby is a town of much antiquity, but no historical importance. It owes its origin to the foundation of an abbey here in 658, by Oswy, King of Northumberland. No traces of the Romans have been found here ; but Dunsley Bay, between two
* Streams of HelL374
WHITBY-HISTORY A2TD POPULATION.
and three miles to the north-west, has been recognised as the Dunum Sinus (Dounon Kolpos) of Ptolemy, and is believed by many antiquaries to be the Proetvrium of Antoninus. A Roman road, in some places distinctly marked, leads from this part of the coast to Cawthorne (supposed to be Delgovitia) and Malton (Derventio), whence it proceeds to York. In Anglo-Saxon history, the name of this town is Streoneshalh—a word regarding the precise etymology of which antiquarians are not agreed. The latter part of the word signifies a tower or high building; and the former part is variously rendered " strand" or " bay." The more modern name of Whitby signifies " white town." By the year 1396 the fishing trade of Whitby seems to have become somewhat important, as the spiritual dues paid to the abbey amounted, at that date, to £52, 13s. lid., for half a year, exclusive of the tithe fish used in the monastery. Whitby, however, continued to be only a small fishing town for many years subsequent to this period. In 1540 it consisted of less than 40 houses and 200 inhabitants. The erection of alum works at Sands-end, in 1615, greatly contributed to its prosperity. In 1690 the inhabitants numbered nearly 3000, and 60 ships of eighty tons burden and upwards belonged to the port. By 1790 the population had reached 10,000. It has increased very slowly since, for at the census of 1871 it was only 13,082 ; and the inhabited houses,12842. Whitby, as a port, has the advantage of being not far from the Durham coal-fields. The tonnage of the vessels belonging to the port in 1870 was 62,819. The sailing vessels amounted to 309 ; steam vessels, only to 6. Whitby trades with all parts of the world; but its shipping is principally engaged in the Baltic, American, East Indian, and home coasting trade. Ship-building is carried on to some extent here ; but this, as well as the general commercial progress of the town, has been subject to fluctuations. Sail-cloth, ropes, and other ship equipments, are manufactured in this town. A considerable business is done in the manufacture of brooches and other ornar ments out of jet and ammonite stones found in the neighbourhood. There is also a large trade in coals and alum ; and fish is sent into the interior in considerable quantities. Whitby has railway communication with all parts of the kingdom.
The borough is represented in Parliament by one member.
The town is built along the sloping banks of the Esk, which forms the harbour. The two parts of the town are connectedWHITBY ABBEY.
375
by a drawbridge, which admits vessels of 500 tone burden. The streets are generally narrow, and the older parts of the town present nothing remarkable. The West Cliff has many very handsome buildings, affording excellent accommodation to visitors.
The Abbey.—About the year 658, King Oswy, in fulfilment of a vow for a victory gained over Penda, founded a convent here for monks and nuns of the Benedictine order, and gave his infant daughter Ethelfleda into the care of the abbess, the saintly Hilda, to be dedicated to God in perpetual virginity. The history of the abbey thus founded contains some particulars of an interesting and romantic description. Here took place the controversy regarding Easter between the Scottish Christians and their Romish antagonists, in which, as the venerable Bede informs us, Oswy decided for the latter, from the fear lest otherwise he might find St. Peter his adversary when he presented himself at the gate of heaven. Hilda died in 680, at the age of sixty-six, and was succeeded by her royal pupil Ethelfleda. Many are the stories which have been handed down by the old chroniclers of the miracles effected in " high Whitby's cloistered pile," by the sanctity of the Lady Hilda. Scott refers to these tales in the following lines :—
" They told, how in their convent cell A Saxon princess once did dwell,
The lovely Edelfled; And how, of thousand snakes, each one Was changed into a coil of stone,
When Holy Hilda prayed; Themselves, within their holy bound, Their stony folds had often found.
" They told how sea-fowls' pinions fall, As over Whitby's towers they sail, And, sinking down, with flutterings faint, They do their homage to the saint."
The petrified snakes are fossil ammonites, which abound among these rocks. The wild fowls naturally alight from fatigue after a long flight across the sea. At a particular window of the abbey, the form of Hilda was said to appear, not at night, like other supernatural visions, but "all day long," as the rhyme preserved in Grose's " Antiquities" testifies :—
" Likewise the abbey that you see, I made that you might think of me;376
WHITBY ABBEY.
Also a window there I placed, That you might see me as, undreEB'd, In morning gown and night trail there, All the day long fairly appear. At the west end of the church you'll see Nine paces there in each degree; But if one foot you stir aside, My comely presence is deny'd."
In the time of Hilda and Elfleda, this monastery numbered among its inhabitants the monk Coedman, the first Saxon poet He received the poetical inspiration in sleep, when he was advanced in years. One of his poems which has been preserved is contained in Sharon Turner's " History of the Anglo-Saxons," and is interesting as the earliest poetical production in the language. In 867, Whitby was destroyed by the Danes under Inguar and Hubba. For more than two hundred years the Abbey lay desolate; but at length Reinfred, a soldier who had turned monk, and devoted himself to the restoration of the monasteries, induced William de Percy, one of the barons of William the Conqueror, to rebuild it. The monastery seems to have suffered more than the usual amount of troubles for many years after this. Pirates from the sea, and robbers from the land, often plundered the holy place, and put the inmates in peril of their lives. Tradition even relates a romantic story of " three barons bold," who slew an unoffending hermit belonging to the fraternity, and had to engage to do yearly penance for their lives and estates, and bind their heirs to hold their lands of the abbot of Whitby by the same service. Of this Sir Walter Scott speaks in Marmion:—
" Then Whitby's nuns exulting told, How to their house three barons bold
Must menial service do; While horns blow out a note of shame, And monks cry, ' Fye upon your name I In wrath, for loss of sylvan game, Saint Hilda's priest ye slew.'— ' This, on Ascension-day, each year, While labouring on our harbour-pier, Must Herbert, Bruce, and Percy hear.'"
Dr. Young in his "Picture of Whitby," remarks, "There is something so romantic in this monkish story, that one is tempted to wish it were true." The story is given at length in the " Picture of Whitby," in the notes to " Marmion," and in other works. A Jist of the abbots of Whitby, from Reinfred to the time of HenryWHITBY ABBEY.
377
VIII., has been preserved, but it possesses no interest for the general tourist At the Dissolution the net yearly revenues amounted to £437 : 2s. The building was stripped of everything that would sell, and abandoned to decay. The site of the abbey passed, after various transmissions, into the possession of the family of Cholmley, in which it still remains.
The ruins of the venerable structure occupy an imposing position on a high cliff overlooking the town on its east side. They are 250 feet above the sea, and form a very prominent and picturesque object when viewed from various points. The remains are those of the church, which has evidently been a building of great magnificence. It is a beautiful specimen of the early English style, and, though the precise date cannot be stated, was most probably erected in the latter part of the twelfth, and the beginning of the thirteenth centuries. The church appears to have been built at three different periods; the choir is evidently the oldest part, and the western portion of the nave the most modern. The dimensions of the church, according to Mr. Charlton, whose tt History of Whitby" was published in 1779, have been as follows:—Length, 300 feet; breadth of nave, 69 ; length of transepts, 160 ; height of nave, 60 ; height of central tower, 150.
The north and east sides of the edifice are those which remain in the best state of preservation. The east end, instead of a single great window, has six lancet windows in two tiers, and small windows in the gable above. The sides of these windows are deeply moulded, and adorned with zig-zag and tooth ornaments. The side aisles are divided from the centre by seven pointed arches, resting on clustered columns. Above are the triforium and clerestory windows, in a pretty good state of preservation. The groining of the north aisle, also tolerably complete, exhibits some fine sculpture. The north transept is nearly perfect. Its front exhibits three tiers of windows, with one small circular one in the upper part of the pediment. A pillar in this transept bears an inscription, now illegible, which, according to Gent the antiquarian, was as follows:—"Johannes de Brumton, quondam famulus Domino de la Phe, has columnas erexit in metum et honorem beatse Mariae." (John de Brumton, formerly servant to Lord de la Phe, erected these columns in veneration and honour of the blessed Mary.) The central tower fell in 1830, but two of the pillars which supported it still remain :378
whitby hall-parish church.
they are veiy strong, and consist of sixteen clustered columns, The western part of the nave is the latest portion of the building. The great doorway remains, but the upper part of this front has fallen. The southern side of the church is mostly in ruins.
Whitby Hall.—The monastic buildings have all disappeared. Some of the materials were used, about 1580, by Sir Francis Choi ml ey, for the erection of a mansion on the site of the abbot's house. This building was enlarged and fortified, about the year 1635, by Sir Hugh Cholmley. It was shortly after seized and occupied by the Parliamentarians. Some large additions were subsequently made to this mansion; and it is described as " a merry place in days of yore." Since 1743, however, when the Cholmley family succeeded to other estates, "Whitby Hall has gradually declined in importance. Sixty years ago it was found necessary to take down the north front of the mansion ; and it is only occasionally that the remaining portion of the building is inhabited by the family.
The Pabish Chubch, which is dedicated to St. Mary, is prominently situated on the cliff, not far from the abbey, and is reached from the town below by a long flight of steps. It is a matter of much regret that the course of time and circumstance should have brought about so many alterations and " improvements" in this ancient church. The original style was Norman, some interesting remains of which may still be seen in the south wall. It is supposed to have been built about the year 1100; and the conjecture has been thrown out that it may have been the church of the original Norman abbey, and may have been given to the town when the somewhat later and more magnificent church was erected. So many alterations have been made, that the church retains little of its ancient form. It is, indeed, one of the most incongruous churches in Yorkshire. From almost any point in the churchyard, one can see windows of the most varied kinds—round-headed, lancet, and square. There are several monuments in the interior, the most remarkable being that to the memory of General Lascelles, a native of Whitby, who served in Spain in the reign of Queen Anne, and in Scotland in the rebellions of 1715 and 1745. He died in 1772. This church has sittings for 2200 persons.
There are several other places of worship in connection with the Established Church, the most important of which is the Church of St. John the Evangelist, opened in 1850, a handsomewhitby—public buildings-vicinity.	379
edifice, built in the early English style. There are numerous dissenting chapels, and many good schools.
The public buildings of Whitby are respectable, but not generally of much architectural importance. The Town Hall is in Church Street. It was erected in 1788, and is of the Tuscan order of architecture. The Public Baths is a handsome building on the "West Pier. The ground floor of this edifice is appropriated to the purposes implied in its name, the second storey to the Whitby Subscription Library, and the third to the Museum. The Museum, which contains, among other objects, a good collection of gigantic fossil remains discovered in the lias strata of the immediate neighbourhood, is well worthy of a visit.
Congress Hall, a wooden building in Cross Street, originally erected for the Church Congress at York, holds 2000 people.
The Saloon, a handsome building facing the sea, and a little distance below the West Cliff, contains a large room, 90 ft. by 42 ft., for public entertainments, etc.
The West Pier, with the pleasure-grounds facing the sea, afford fine and much frequented promenades.
VICINITY OF WHITBY.
The Coast—Mulgrave Castle—Runswiok—Staithes—Robin Hood's Bay—Egton—
Scenery of Eskdale—The Beggar's Bridge—Dauby Castle—Vale of Goathland—
Brigantian Villages.
Whitby is a convenient centre for many pleasant excursions both along the coast and inland. Boats for short aquatic excursions can be readily obtained, and for trips to Scarborough and Bridlington steamers are available at stated times. The Whitby and Pickering Kailway, which lies through the Yale of the Esk, is perhaps the most charming line in England for the beautiful and highly diversified scenery which it commands throughout its course. Various places on this line may be taken as starting-points for very pleasant excursions. The new branches to Castleton, and thence to Guisborough, open up an interesting part of Cleveland, and moreover, afford direct communication with Teesdale and the north-west of Yorkshire.
There is no more attractive field to the geologist and palaeontologist than this part of the coast, which affords both to the north and south many of the most interesting phenomena of mineralogical science. The lias shales are celebrated for380
vicinity op whitby-mulgrave castle.
the Ichthyosauri, Teleosauri, Plesiosauri, and other huge fossil reptiles, which they have yielded. Should the geologist, however, not have the good fortune to secure one of these monsters, he may at least calculate on his diligence being rewarded by a variety of Ammonites, Belemnites, Nautili, etc.
The bay between the Abbey and the cliff of Sands-end is generally believed by antiquarians to be the Dunum Sinus of Ptolemy. Dunsley, a small hamlet in the neighbourhood, seems to preserve in its name the ancient designation- The Roman road from Dunsley to Malton cannot here be very easily traced. At Sands-end there are extensive alum works.
Mulgrave Castle, the seat of the Marquis of Normanby (from whose agent in Whitby tickets of admission to the grounds may be obtained), is situated on this part of the coast, about three miles from the town. The park combines the attractions of beautifully wooded grounds and the near view of the sea. The modern mansion takes its name from an ancient stronghold, the ruins of which still stand in a strong position on the ridge of a hill within the grounds. A castle is said to have been built here 200 years before the Conquest, by Wade, or Wada, a Saxon. This personage is represented by traditions preserved in Mulgrave as having been a giant, and the maker of the Roman road leading from Dunsley to Malton, called after him, " Wade's Causeway." His wife, Bell, was also of gigantie stature, and assisted him in his work by carrying the stones for the road in her apron. In later times, the domain of Wada came into the possession of Peter de Mauley, who rebuilt the ruinous castle in the reign of King John. The history of this castle is unimportant. It was dismantled in the time of King Charles I. by order of the Parliament. The ruins consist of two circular towers guarding the entrance, one of them of considerable height ; the central keep, square, with towers at the corners, in a very ruinous condition ; a square tower at the south-east aiigle of the outer wall; and other unimportant fragments.
There are numerous attractive spots within the bounds of Mulgrave woods, such as the hermitage, with its neighbouring cascade, the old mill, etc.
The modern mansion is a handsome building in the castellated style, in an elevated situation, commanding fine views.
Continuing the excursion along the coast, and passing through the hamlets of Goldsborough and Kettleness. at the latter of which'vicinity op whitby—robin hood's bay.
361
there are alum works, the tourist will arrive at the village of Runswick, eight miles from Whitby. This village is most singularly situated on the north side of Runswick Bay. Its houses are perched in tiers on the cliff, the various elevations oil which it is built communicating with each other by footpaths, streets being out of the question. The bay runs far inland, and is very picturesque. A cave called " Hobhole," excavated by the waves in the alum rock, can be examined at low water, and will be found worth a visit
About two miles farther north is the village of Staithes, which is also beautifully situated, the small stream which here flows into the sea contributing highly to its picturesqueness. The only fact of any general interest in the history of this place is, that here Captain Cook, the celebrated circumnavigator of the globe, was apprenticed to a grocer. In a few months he got tired of his situation, and went to sea. Between Runswick and Staithes, the cliffs have the general character of a lias base, with a sandstone covering. At the highest part of this range of coast (about 320 feet above the sea), there are some tumuli. This is an excellent station for examining the sections of the lias, which is here rich in fossils.
There is not much to interest the tourist in the line of coast between this point and Saltburn, about ten miles distant, where the railway is gained.
Robin Hood's Bay {Inn: The New Inri\. A pleasant excursion may be made from Whitby, southwards, along the coast to Robin Hood's Bay, a distance of six miles. About half way, the road passes through the village of Hawsker, where it is said that a couple of arrows, shot by Robin Hood and Little John from Whitby Abbey, alighted on the spots marked by two upright stones. About two miles beyond this village the parish church of Baytown is reached. It is a% modern building, in a prominent position. The churchyard (in which there are some curious epitaphs) commands a fine view. Robin Hood's Bay is the name given to the picturesquely situated fishing town as well as to the bay which it overlooks, though roften, for the sake of definiteness, the former is called Baytown. This was a place of some importance as a fishing town when Leland visited it, more than 300 years ago. It derives its name from the famous English outlaw, whose exploits have been so often told in song and story. The tradition which accounts for the name of Robin Hood being382
VICINITY OF WHITBY—ROBIN HOOD'S BAY.
attached to this place is to the effect that, when he was hard pressed by the myrmidons of the law, he retired hither with his men, and put out to sea in some of the boats which he took care to have always ready for an emergency. He is said to have occasionally resided here ; and two mounds on the adjoining moor were supposed to have served as marks for him and his men when exercising themselves in shooting with the long bow. " The Butts," as these mounds were called from this tradition, have been ascertained to be the sepulchral tumuli of ancient Britons.
srfffiM

ROBIN HOOD S BAT.
The town has recently increased much in wealth and importance, there being now a considerable number of shipowners belonging to it. It is so situated as not to - be seen on the approach from Whitby till the tourist is close upon it. Fine views are obtained of this strangely-placed town, as well as of the bay, from various points, particularly from Canfoot Hill, on the south-east, and Ness Point, on the north side. By extending his excursion to Stow Brow, about two miles to the south, the tourist will ob-vicinity of whitby-eg ton-the beggar's bridge. 383
tain a most magnificent sea and land view. Stow Brow is 800 feet above the sea. At Peaky in this neighbourhood, near the promontory, are large alum works. Robin Hood's Butts, already referred to, are on the moor here, ana may have an attraction for some antiquarians.
Egton, about a mile and a half from Grosmont station, forma a pleasant excursion from Whitby, from which town it is distant eight miles. Grosmont or Gromond was the site of a priory, founded about the year 1200, but no remains of it, of any importance, now exist. A lane on the right hand, after crossing the Esk at Grosmont Bridge, conducts to the site of the prioiy. The ironstone which is worked at Grosmont is worthy of the notice of the geologist. A walk of about a mile up the Esk brings us to Egton Bridge [Inn: The Oak Tree], a lovely hamlet in a picturesque valley at the foot of Egton Cliff. The small market-town of Egton, from which this hamlet takes its name, is about a mile distant, and is pleasantly situated. Its church is a venerable structure, consisting of nave, south aisle, and chancel. The aisle is divided from the nave by circular arches, rising from round pillars. A pointed arch separates the nave from the chanceL The scenery in the neighbourhood is of remarkable beauty, and spots well deserving of a visit may be easily reached from either the town or the hamlet. The scenery of this part of Eskdale will reward the pedestrian. From Egton Bridge up to Glaizedale, the course of the river is highly picturesque. The channel of the Esk is in many places cut through the sandstone and shale, over the opposing ridges of which its waters break musically, and woods with their high dark cliffs tower on either side. This sylvan solitude, charming at all times, is peculiarly so when autumn begins to shew the varying tints of the dying foliage.
The Beggar's Bridge is a spot that is often visited, and not unfrequently the scene of pic-nics. This is an elegant single arch which spans the stream, about a mile and a half above Egton Bridge. Why it is called the "Beggar's Bridge" does not appear; it would more properly be called the " Lovers' Bridge." There is a story told regarding the cause of its erection, somewhat resembling that which forms the subject of the beautiful ballad entitled "Annan Water," in the "Minstrelsy of the Scottish Border." The story, which has been prettily rendered in verse by a lady, does not, however, involve the cata-384 VICINITY OF WHITBY—DANBY CABTLE—CAflTLETON.
stroplie which gives its touching pathos to the ballad referred to. The lover, trying to cross the Esk to visit his mistress, on the evening before his departure to seek his fortune abroad, was repeatedly foiled by the violence of the flood, and had at length to give up the attempt.
" Exhausted, he climbed the steep side of the brae, And looked up the dale ere he turned him away; Ah I from her far window a light flickered dim,
And he knew she was faithfully watching for him. • • * * •
" If fortune ever favour me, St. Hilda, hear my vow I No lover again, in my native plain,
Shall be thwarted as I am now. One day I'U come back to claim my bride
Aa a worthy and wealthy man; And my well-earned gold shall raise a bridge,
Across the torrent's span 1
* » »
" The rcver came back from a far distant land, And he claimed of the maiden her long-promised hAnd But he built, ere he won her, the bridge of his vow; And the lovers of Egton pass over it now."
The Arncliff Wood may afford an agreeable ramble, and the view from its summit is very fine. The course of the Esk above Glaizedale is less attractive ; yet the tourist who may explore it will not be likely to think his time altogether wasted. About a mile and a half above Lealholm Bridge, which is pleasantly situated at the union of the little vale of Lealholm with that of the Esk, stand the remains of Danby Castle, on an eminence on the south side of the valley. This building is said to have been erected shortly after the Conquest by Robert de Brus. Graves, in his " History of Cleveland," mentions a tradition that Catherine Parr, one of the Queens of Henry YIH., resided here for some time. The conspicuous height on the other side of the dale is called Danby Beacon. It is 966 feet high, and commands an extensive view. On the moor, a mile beyond the Beacon, are the remains of an ancient British village (noticed below). Higher up the valley, and on its south side, is the old mound of Castle-ton, the 6ite, doubtless, of an ancient stronghold. Still farther up the dale, we reach Commondftle, with its farms and cottages, meadows and cornfields. There is some picturesque scenery in the small glens that branch off in the upper part of the dale.VICINITY OF WHITBY-BBIGANTIAN VILLAGES.	385
A pleasant pedestrian excursion in the Vale of Goathlajstd may be begun at the foot of the railway incline. Alighting at Beck Hole, and ascending the stream on the left, the tourist will find in its course some charming scenery. There are on this stream several picturesque little cascades, the chief of which are Thomasin Foss and Mill Foss.
The stream on the right has lately been greatly interfered with by ironstone works ; but it still possesses a good many attractive bits of scenery. The most important of these is a cascade nearly 100 feet high, beautifully embowered with trees—a very fine spectacle when the stream is in flood. Near Goathland are the Killing Pits, the site of an ancient British village (see below). On the opposite side of the valley is the wild moorland hamlet of Julian Park, near which the Roman road to Malton can be traced. By this route the tourist can cross the moor to Egton Bridge, enjoying, if the weather is clear, some good views on the way.
Brigantian Villages.—The remains of several ancient British villages may be visited from Whitby. Most of these might be included in a survey of Eskdale, such as that just given from Egton upwards ; but it seems to be a more satisfactory way to give these interesting remains a separate notice. The places where the most important traces of the abodes of the original inhabitants have been discovered, are—Egton Grange, near the edge of the moor, a short distance to the right of the Rosedale road ; Killing Pits, a mile south of Goathland Chapel (near the Goathland station, miles from Whitby); Hole Tits, near Westerdale Chapel (16 miles from Whitby); Danby Moor (about 13 miles from Whitby) ; and Roseberry Topping (24 miles from Whitby, and 3 from Guisborough). These dwellings have consisted of circular pits, varying in diameter from 6 to 18 feet, and 4 or 5 feet in depth. The earth excavated from the pit was formed into a raised border or screen round it; and this shelter was made more complete by branches of trees being inserted in it, and so placed as to form a conical roof. This, again, was probably thatched with turf or rushes. The fire was in the centre of the floor, traces of it having been found in many of the huts at Egton Grange. At the places mentioned, the bases of huts have been found in such numbers, and so associated, as to leave no doubt that these were villages. The most important of these assemblages is perhaps that on Danby Moor. Here the
2 c386 VICINITY OF WHITBY—BRIGAJNTIAN VILLAGES.
pits are in two parallel lines, with an open space like a street between them. A small stream divides the settlement into two parts. There are several large tumuli and tall upright stones near this village. The other villages which have been mentioned are likewise very interesting to the antiquarian ; but as the foundations of huts are similar to those discovered at Danby, they do not require to be separately described.
YORK City. See page 1.INDEX.
Abbet Bridge, 301 Abbeys and Priories—Athelstan, 44; Barford, 354.; Bolton, 64; Bridlington, 85 ; Byland, 90 ; Cover-ham, 367; Easby, 121 ; Ellerton, 350 ; Fountains, 134 ; Guisbor-ough, 146 ; Jervaux, 210 ; Kirk-ham, 217 ; Kirks tall, 218 ; Mar-rick, 350 ; Meaux, 62 ; Monk Bretton, 48 ; Mount Grace, 264 ; Old Malton, 247 ; Rievaulx, 289; Roche, 117 ; Rosedale, 274 ; Saw-ley, 346 ; Selby, 325 ; Watton, 121; Whitby, 375 ; York, 17 Aberford, 75 Acklam Springs, 120 Addingham, 269
Adel Church, 238 ; Roman Camp, 240
Adwick-le-Street, 116 Aire, River, 33, 228 Airedale, 33
Aldborough, the Roman Iswrium, 39;
Church, 42 Aldbrough (coast), 182 Aldfield, 145
Alfred, King of Northumberland, 119 Almes Cliff, Great and Little, 163 Almondbury, 187 Alne, 127 Amotherby, 252 Ampleforth, 108 Appleton-on-the-Moor, 274 Appleton-le-Street, 253 Arkendale Lead Mines, 350 Arksey, 44 Arras, 258 Armley, 240
Arncliffe Village, 73 ; Wood, 384 Arthington, 267
Arthur, King, and his knights, 268 Adcham, Roger, 265
Askern, 43, 116
Askrigg, 371
Athelstane Abbey, 44
Athelstane, King, 51
Atkinson, Thos., the Siberian tra
veller, 46 Auburn, 197
Auldgang Lead Mines, 351 Aysgarth Church, 371; Force, 370 Ayton, East, 322 ; West, 322
Baildon Hill, 85 Bainbridge, 371 Baines, Edward, of Leeds, 230 "Bairnsla Foaks Annual," Extract
from, 47 Barden Tower, 71 Bardsey, 75 Barford, 354 Barnaby Moor, 149 Barnard Castle, 356 Barnsdale, 43 Barnsley, 45 Barton-le-Street, 253 Barugh, Great, 252 Barwick-in-Elmet, 353 Batley, 366 Bay Town, 381 Baynard Castle, 195 Bedale, 264 Beggar's Bridge, 383 " Bell, Currer, Ellis, and Acton," 174 Ben Rhydding, 48 Bentley, Richard, 362 Beverley, 51,194; St. Mary's Church,
58 ; Westwood, 61 Beverley, Sisters of, Legend of the, 57 Bilsdale, 291
Bingham, Joseph, author of "Ori-
gines Ecclesiastics," 362 Bingley, 37, 84 Bingley, Rev. W., author, 113388
IND2X.
Birdsall. 256 Birkin, 326 Bishop Burton, CI Bishopdale, 371 Bishopthorpe, 28 Black Beck,. 321 Blackhow Topping, 275 Blind Jack of Knaresborougli, 170, 223
Bolton Bridge, 64, 269
Bolton Castle, 62
Bblton Hall (Wensleydale), 370
Bolton Hall, (Wharfedale), 66
Bolton-on-Swale, 349
Bolton Park, 66
Bolton Percy, 29
Bolton Priory, 64, 310
Boroughbridge, 38
Boston Spa, 74
Bowes, 76, 357 ; Camp, 76 ; Castle,
77 ; Church, 78 Bowling. 83 Boynton, 90
Bradford, 80 ; Parish Church, 81 ;
St. George's Hall, 81, 82 Bradley, William, the Yorkshire
Giant, 257 Bramham, 74 Brayton, 325 Bridestones, The, 275 Bridlington, 84-87 ; Priory, 85 Bridlington Quay—See Burlington. Brigantian Remains, 385 Briggs, Henry, mathematician, 152 Brignall Banks, 305, 355 Brimham Rocks, 164 British Remains—See Brigantian
Eemains. Bronte Family, 172 Brownsholme, 347 Broxa, 322 Bubwith, 328
Buckden Pike and Village, 73 Buckingham, Charles Yilliers, Duke
of, scene of his death, 214 Burley, 268 Burlington Quay, 87 Burniston, 320 Burton, Agnes, 89
Burton, John, M.D,, author of
"Monasticon Eboracense," 362 Burythorpe, 256 Bvland Abbey, 90, 108
Calder, "River, 3 til Caldron Snout, 35 a Caley Hall, 267 Calverley, 83 Campsall, 43 Campsmount, 11G Carnaby, 89 Caxnelian Bay, 320 Carperby, 370 Castle Howard, 92 Castleber, 33 Castleford, 278
Castles—Bolton, 62 ; Bowes, 77 ; Conisborough, 100 ; Crayke, 126; Harewood, 167 : Helmsley, 177 : Knaresborough, 224; Middleham, 260 ; Pickering, 270 ; Pontefract, 276 ; Ravensworth, 288 ; Richmond, 285 ; Ripley, 168 ; Sandal, 365 ; Scarborough, 314 ; Sherifl Hutton, 342; Skipton, 345 ; Spol-forth, 169 ; Tickhill, 116 Castleton, 384 Cat Castle, 357
Cathedrals,—Beverley, 53 ; Ripon,
293 j York, 6 Catterick, 348 ; Bridge, 348 Cawood, 98 Cawthorne, 217, 272 Cayton, 320
Chantrey, Sir Francis, 321 Chapel-le-Dale, 207 Cherry Burton, 62 Chevin, 266 Church Fenton, 39 Clapham, 35, 205 Cliff Bridge, Scarborough, 315 Clifford, 74
Clifford, Henry, "The Shepherd
Lord," 71, 343 Cloughton, 320 Coatham, Church, 280 Ccedman, the first Saxon poet, 376 Commondale, 384 Conisborough Castle, 100, 116 Cook, Captain, 150, 309, 381 Cotherston, 357 Cottingham, 195 Coverham Abbey, 367 Coverdale, Miles, the reformer, 368
Coxwold, 105 ; Church, 106 Crayke Castle, 126INDEX.
389
Croft, 110, 354
Cromwell, Oliver, 268
Cronkley Scar, 358
Cropton, 217, 273
Curfew Bell, 195
Cutler, Sir John, the miser, 168
Dalby Farm, 275 Dalton, South, 258 Danby Beacon and Castle, 384;
Moor, 384 Danes' Dyke, 134 Danish Tower, Flamborough, 132 Deepdale, 357 Defoe, Daniel, 152 Dent Crag and Village, 207 Denton Park, 269 Derwent River, 322 Devil's Arrows, 38 Dewsbury, 366
Doncaster, 112; St. George's Church,
113; Races, 115 " Dotheboys Hall," 79 " Dove, Dr. Daniel," 207 Dovecot Cave, 133 Dowkabottom Cave, 73 "Dragon of Wantley," The, 340 Driffield (Great), 118 Driffield (Little), 119 Dropping Well, Knaresborough, 225 Duncombe Park, 121, 178 Dnnsley, 380
Easby Abbey, 121 ; Church, 123 Easingwold, 124 East and West Ayton, 322 East Witton, 367
" Edwin and Emma," Ballad of, 78 Egremond, Story of the Boy of, 64 Egton, 383 ; Bridge, 383 Elland, 187 Ellerburn, 275 Ellerton Abbey, 350 Elliot, Ebenezer, 307 Eugene Aram, Story of, 227
Fairfax, Edward, the poet, 268 Fairfax, Thomas, Lord, 268 Falsgrave, 320, 322 Farndale, 215 F&rnley Hall, 267
Ferry Bridge, 279
Filey, 128; Brig, 130; Church, 128 ;
Spa, 130 Fishlake, 116
Flamborough, 131 ; Church, 132 ;
Head, 132 Forge Valley, 322 Foss Gill, 371 Foster John, 152
Fountains Abbey, 134 ; J^all, 144 Fremington, 350 Frobisher, Sir Martin, 113 Fulneck, 83
Galtres Forest, 124, 126 Gaping Gill Hole, 206 Gargrave, 36
Gascoigne, Chief Justice, 166
Gatekirk Cave, 209
Gateskeugh, 98
Gearstones, 210
" Gibbet Law," Halifax, 151
Giggleswick, 34
Gilling, 108
Gingle Pot, 208
Glaizedale, 383
Goathland, 385
Goldsborough, 165
Goodmanham, 258
Goole, 185
Goredale Scar, 35
Gower, Sir John, the poet, 343
Graffa Plain, 165
Great Barugh, 252
Great Smeaton, 111
Great Whernside, 368
Greta, Stream, 302
Greta Bridge, 304
Gretadale, 207
Grinton, 351
Gristhorp, 320
Gromond, or Grosmond, 383
Guisborough and Priory, 146
Guiseley, 267
Gypseys, 90
Hackfail, 298, 367
Hackness, 321
Hagg, The, 357
Haiburn Wyke, 320
Halifax, 151 ; All Souls' Churoli,390
INDEX.
154 ; Parish Church, 153 ; Town Hall, 155 Hambleton Hills, 241, 255 Hardraw Force, 372 Harebrow, 321
Harewood Castle, 167; Church, 166;
House, 167 ; Village, 165 Harlow Car, 161 Harpham, 120
Harrogate, 156 ; Baths, 162 ; Churches, 157 ; Hotels, 156, 157 ; Mineral Waters, 158 Haslewood Hall, 75 Hatfield Chace, 116 Hattermire Scars, 34 Hawes, 372 Hawkswick, 73
Haworth, 37, 170 ; Bronte Family, The, 172 ; Church, 171 ; Moors, 174; Parsonage, 173 Hawsker, 381 Hayton, 258 Headingley, 240 Heath, 364
Hedon, 196 ; the Church, 197 Hell Becks, 373
Helmsley, 92,109,176; Castle, 177 ;
Church, 177 Hemingbrough, 327 Hercum, Hole of, 275 Heslington, 31 High Cup Nick, 359 High Force, 358 High Grantley, Lakes of, 145 High Hutton, 98 Hilda, Saint, of Whitby, 321 Hobhole, 381
Holland, Mrs., authoress, 330 Holderness, 197 Hole Pits, 385 Holgate, 31 Holwick, 358
Hood, Robin, 43, 188, 335, 365, 381
Hood's " Dream of Eugene Aram," 228
Hornby Castle, 265
Hornsea, 180 ; Mere, 181
Hornton, 210
Hovingham, 254
Howard, Castle, 92
Howardian Hills, 252
Howden, 182, 328
How Hill, 145
Huddersfield, 185
Hull, 189 ; Church of the Holy Trinity, 192 ; Eminent Natives, 190 ; History, 189 ; Public Buildings, 193 ; Trade, etc., 191 Hunmanby, 131
Hutchison, John, opponent of Newton, 368 Hutton, Buscel, 322 Hutton, Dr. Matthew, Archbishop of Canterbury, 350
Ilkley, 48, 201 ; Church, 202 Ilkley Wells House, 203 Ingleborough, 35, 204 ; Cave, 205 ;
Hall, 205 Ingleton, 207
" Ivanhoe," Scenes of Incidents in, 241
Jaokson, William (Masham), 300 Jeaunot's Cave, 35 Jenkins, Henry, 349 Jervaux Abbey, 210 " Jockey Cap," 206
Keighley, 36, 212 Kent, W., landscape-gardener, 86 Kettlewell, 73, 368 Kilburn, 107 Killing Pits, 385 Kilnsey Crag and Village, 72 Kingsdale, 209 Kirby Moorside, 213, 274 Kirkby Ravensworth Church, 288 Kirkby-Underdale Tumulus, 256 Kirby Wiske, 265 Kirkdale Cave, 216 ; Church, 215 Kirkham Priory, 217 Kirkleatham, 281 Kirklees, 188 Kirkstall Abbey, 218 Knaresborough, 221 ; Castle, 224 ; Church, 223 ; Dropping Well, 225 ; Spa, 228; St. Robert's Cave, 226 ; St. Robert's Chapel, 225
Knottingley, 38 Knowles, Herbert, 282
Lanqdale End, 321 Langton, 236 ; Wold, 255 Larington, 357 Lastingham, 217, 273 T^awson. Admiral Sir John, 190INDEX.
391
Lealholin, 384 Leathley. 267 Leavening Brow, 120 Leeds, 228; Cloth Halls, 237 ; Eminent Men, 229; Factories, 237 ; Grammar School, 235 ; History, 229 ; Population and Manufactures, 230; St. Peter's Church, 233 ; Town Hall, 231 Leeming, 347 L'Espec, Sir Walter, 289 Levisham, 217, 274 Leyburn, 265, 368 ; Shawl, 369 Little Driffield, 119 Littondale, 73 Londesborough Park, 258 Lovely Seat, 351 Lowthorpe, 120 Lunedale, 359 Lytton, Sir E. Bulwer, 226
B/Tat.ttam, 35, 33; Cove, 36 ; Tarn, 33
Malhamdale, 36
Malton, 241, 252 ; Castle, 242 ; Churches, 243 ; History, 242 ; Lodge, 244; Old Malton Priory, 247 ; Roman Town and Camp, 245
Market Weighton, 257, 328
Marrick Abbey, 350
Marske (Cosist), 281
Marske (Swaledale), 350
Marston, 268
Marston Moor, 30
Marton, 150
Marvell, Andrew, 200
Mary Queen of Scots, Imprisonment
of, in Yorkshire, 63, 329 Masborough, 307 Mash am, 299
Mason, William, the poet, 191 Meaux Abbey, 62 Methley, 279 ; Park, 279 Menstone, 268 Mickle Fell, 359
Middleham Church and Castle, 260, 368
Middlesborough, 262 Middleton-in-Teesdale, 353 Millgill Force, 371 Milner, Rev. Joseph, 193
Mineral Waters — Aldfield, 145 , Askern, 43 ; Boston Spa, 74 ; Bridlington Quay, 89; Croft, 110, Filey, 130; Guisborough, 149 Harrogate, 159; Hovingham, 254; Knaresborough, 228 ; Scarborough, 316 Monk Brettan Priory, 48 Montague, Lady Mary Wortley, 339 Montgomery, James, 85 Mortham Tower, 303 Mount Grace Priory, 264 Mowbray, Vale of, 109 Muker, 351 Mulgrave Castle, 380 Myton, 42
New all, 268 Newburgh Park, 107 Newton Dale, 274 Newton Hall, 352 Newton Kyme, 352 North Grimston, 255 Northallerton, 263 Norton, 251 Nostal Priory, 365 Nun Monkton, 31 Nunnington, 255
Oliver's Mount, 319 Oswaldkirk, 109 Otley, 266 ; Church, 266 Ouse, River, 347, 367 Ovington, 354 Owston, 44
Pardoe, Miss Julia, authoress, 5?,
Pateley Bridge, 164
Patrick Brompton, 265
Patrington, 198
Peak, The, 383
Penhill, 369
Penyghent, 210
Pickering, 269, 272 ; Castle, 270. Pierse Bridge, 354 Pilmoor Junction, 361 Plumpton, 168 Pocklington, 259 Pole, De la, family, 190 Pontefract, 275 ; Castle, 276 Pool, 267 Preston, 198392
INDEX.
Raskelfe, 127
Ravenser, or Ravenspurn, 196
Ravensworth Castle, 288
Red Cliff, 130
Redcar, 280
Redmire, 370
Reeth, 350
Rere, or Rey Cross, 79, 357 Ribble River, 33, 210 Richard II., Death of, 276 Richmond, 281 ; Castle, 285 ; Churches, 282 ; Grammar School, 284
Ridings, Statistics of the, xxvi Rievaulx Abbey, 289 Rillington, 257 Ripley Castle, 168 Ripon, 291; History, 291; Minster, 293
Robin Hood's Bay, 381; Butts, 382;
Wells, 44. See Hood, Robin Robin Lythe's Hole, 133 Roche Abbey, 117 Rockingham, Marquis of, Mausoleum
of the, 338 Rokeby, 301-3 Romaldkirk, 357
Roman Camps, Roads, and other Relics, 39, 73, 76, 170, 201, 222, 241, 245, 252, 272, 278, 288, 348, 351, 371, 374 Rombald's Moor, 213 Roseberry Topping, 149 Rosedale Abbey, 274 Rotherham, 305 ; Church, 307 Rudstone, 88, 89 Ruiiswick, 381 Ryedale, 252
Rylestone, White Doe of, 69 Rythor, 29
St. La whence College, 108 Saltaire, 37, 82 Saltburn-by-the-Sea, 307 Saltersgate Brow, 274; Inn, 275 Sandal Castle, 365 Sandbeck Park, 117 Sandsend, 380 Seville, Sir Henry, 152 Sawley Abbey, 346 Saxton, 30
Scalby Mill and Village, 320 Scarborough, 309 ; Castle, 314; History, 311 ; Church, 312 ; Spa, 315 ; bathing, 318
Scargill Cliff and Wood, 305, 355 Scot's Dyke, 111 Scott, Sir Walter, 302, 304, 356 Scroop, Archbishop, 13, 276 Scroop, Lord, of Masham, 300 Seamer Mere and Village, 320 Selby, 100, 323 ; the Abbey Church,
323; Churchyard, 325 Sempringham, Gilbert de, 247 Settle, 33 Settrington, 257 Sewerby, 90 Shandy Hall, 107 Shaw, the Life Guardsman, 124 Shawl, The, Leyburn, 369 Sheffield, 329 ; Eminent Men, 330 ;
Population and Manufactures, • 331; St. Peter's Church, 332,
333; Manufactories, 334 Shepherd, Lord, 71 Sheriff Hutton, Castle, Village, 341 Sherwood Forest, 335 Shipley, 38 Shipton, 258 Shoddy manufacture, 365 Shunnor Fell, 351 Sigglesthorne, 181 Simmer Water, 372 Simon's Seat, 72 Sittenham, 343 Skelton, 31 Skelton Castle, 150 Skipsea, 182
Skipton, 343 ; Castle, 345
Skipwith, 327
Slingsby Castle, 253
Smeaton Crags, 43
Smith, John Pye, D.D., 330
Speeton, 130
Spennithorne, 368
Spofforth Castle, 169 ; Church, 170
Spurn Head, 200
Stainforth, 35
Stainmoor, 80
Staintondale Cliffs, 321
Staithes, 309, 381
Stanley Hall, 364
Stanwick, 111INDEX.
393
Stocks, John Ellerton, M.D., 191
Stockton, 353
Stokesley, 150
Stonegrave, 254
Stow Brow, 383
Streoneshalh, 374
Strid, 70
Studley, 134
Studley Royal, 134
Suffolk, First Duke of, 190
Swale, River, 347
Swaledale, 347, 349
Swinton, 299
Symons, John, M.R.I.A., 191, 194
Tadoabteb, 351 Tanfield Church, 299 Tate, Mr., of Richmond, 2S4 Tees River, and Teesdale, 353 Temple Newsam, 240 Thirsk, 359 ; Church, 360 Thome, 116 ; Thome Waste, 116 Thornton, 275
Thornton Force and Scar, 210
Thomton-in-Lonsdale, 210
Thorpe Arch, 74
Thorpe Basset, 257
Thorpe Perrow, 264
Tickhill Castle, 116 ; Church, 117
Tillotson, Archbishop, 152
Topcliffe, 347
Towton Field, 30
Troutsdale, 321
Uhe, River, 367
Wade's Causeway, 380 Wakefield, 361; Battle, 361; Chantry, 363 ; Church, 363 ; Eminent Natives, 362 ; Population, 362 Walker, William, the supposed executioner of Charles I., 333 Walmgate Bar, York, 27 Walton Hall, 366
Warwick, Richard Neville, Earl of, 261
Wass, Gorge of, 291 Watton Abbey, 121
Weathercote Cave, 209 Weel, The, 358 Welburn, 257 Welwick, 199 Wensley, 369 Wensleydale, 367
Wentworth Castle, 48, 341; House,
337 ; Village, 339 West Ayton, 322 Weston, 268 West Witton, 370 Westerdale (near Malton), 98 Wetherby, 31, 170 Wharfe River 72, 267 Wharfedale, 267, 373 Whancliffe Crags, 340 ; Lodge, 339 Whernside, 207
Whitby, 373 ; Abbey, 375, 377;
Church, 378; Hall, 378 " White Battle," The, 42 " White Doe of Rylstone," The, 69 Whitkirk, 240 Whitwell, 257 Whorlton, 150
Wilberforce, William, 190, 194 Winch Bridge, 358 Wiuestead, 200 Wintringham, 257 Wistow, 100 Withemsea, 200 Witton, East, 367 ; West, 370 Wolds, The, 119 Wolsey, Cardinal, 99 Woollen manufacture, 153 Wressil Castle, 327 Wycliffe, 354 ; Church, 355 ; Hall, 354
Wycliffe, John de, 354 Wykeham, 321, 322 Wymund, the warrior bishop, 91
Yarm, 354 Yordas Cave, 209
York, city of, 1; Castle,22; Churches, 20; History, 3; Minster, 6; Museum, 19 ; Natives, Eminent, 5 ; Public Buildings, 19 ; St. Mary's Abbey, 17 ; Walls and Gates, 25
2dAdvertisements BLACK'S GUIDE BOOKS
Arranged Alphabetically according to Locality
SUMMER TOURS IN SCOTLAND. GLASGOW AND THE HIGHLANDS.
(Royal Route via Crinan and Caledonian Canals.) Special Tourist Cabin Tickets issued during the Season,
For One Week, £3 ; or Two Weeks, £5. Giving the privilege of the run of all the undernamed Steamers to any part, of the Highlands where they may call at during the time specified.
THE ROYAL
MAIL STEAMERS
Claymore (New Screw Steamship)
inveraray castle
Staffa Fingal Linnet Loohiel Ploveb Lochawx
columba	islay	glencoe
Iona	Chevalier Gondolier
Mountaineer Pioneer Glengarry Clansman Clydesdale Cygnet
and Queen of the Lake. Sail during the season for Port Ellen, Port Askaig, Islay, Oban, Fort-William, Inverness, Staffa, Iona, Glencoe, Loch Awe, Tobermoryj Portree, Strome Ferry, Gairloch, Ullapool, Lochinver, Lochmaddy, Tarbert, Harris, and Stornoway ; affording Tourists an opportunity of visiting the Magnificent Scenery of Loch Awe, Glencoe, the Coolin Hills, Loch Coruisk, Loch Maree, and the famed Islands of Staffa and Iona.
V These vessels afford in their passage a view of the beautiful scenery of the Clyde, with all its Watering-Places—the Island and Kyles of Bute—Island of Arran—Mountains of Cowal, Knapdale, and Kintyre—Lochfyne—Crinan—with the Islands of Jura, Scarba, Mull, and many others of the Western Sea—The Whirlpool of CorryvTeckan— the Mountains-of Lorn, of Morven, of Appin, of Kingairloch, and Ben Nevis—Inver-lochy—The Lands of Lochiel, the scene of the wanderings of Prince Charles, and near to where the clans raised his Standard in the '46—Lochaber—the Caledonian Canal— Loch Lochy—Loch Oich—Loch Ness, with the Glens and Mountains on either side, and the celebrated FALLS OF FOYERS. From Ardrishaig to Ford, the route passes through the picturesque valley of Kilmartin and by Kilmartin Castle, Carnassarie Castle, Bull's Pass, Dog's Head Loch, and Ederline Loch The attractions on Loch Awe are numerous. There are twenty-four Islands, many of them richly wooded, and crowned by the ruins of four Castles and two Monasteries. At the foot of the Lake is the romantic Pass of Brander, where MacDougall of Lome encountered the Bruce, and where, Ben Cruachan rises 3800 feet from the Awe. Books descriptive of the route may «e ha& on board the'Steamers. Official Guide Book, 2d.; Illustrated, 6d.; Cloth, Is.
Time-Bill, with Map and Tourist Fares, sent post free on application to the Proprietor, David MacBrayite, 119 Hope Street, Glasgow.
Glasgow, 1882.
AABERDEEN.
ABERDEEN-IMPERIAL HOTEL
p. ^(NEAREST FIRST-CLASS HOTEL TO RAILWAY STATION.
. Ilf&l' if
- Upgg
lis;!**
if
j: | ? || la*
Jf!!^'
I-6"?	O
ABERDEEN-IMPERIAL
(NEAREST FIRST-CLASS HOTEL TO RAILWAY STATION)ABERDEEN.
MANN'S
PALACE HOTEL,
UNION STREET and BRIDGE STREET,
ABERDEEN.
The PALACE is the largest, most recently erected, and only First-class Hotel in the City.
fTlHE Management heing/wider the direct.and constant gapervision
J-----of the Proprietor, who has had a long practical experience,
and as Chef de Cuisine has had the honour of serving personally ma®y	Royal and imperial Families >,o£ E«roM, .he* tsueta to
men! tie patxtonage-^f visitors.
LETTERS AND TELEGRAMS PROMPTLY. ATTENDED TO-Position, the most central and select, though only One Hvmdred Yards from the Railway Station,
The choisest Vintage Wines are imported direct from The Palace.
CSAREE^StANft; Propr^r. ■She Hotel T3us awaits arrival of all through Trains.A ABERDEEN—ABERYSTWITH-ARDENTINNY—BALLATER.
ABERDEEN.
FORSYTH'S HOTEL
90 TO 102 UNION STREET, ABERDEEN.
M. & E. WALKEK.
ABERYSTWITH.
QUEEN'S HOTEL
THIS Hotel is situated on the Marine Terrace, facing the sea, and contains several Private Sitting-Rooms, Coffee Rooms, Ladies' Drawing-Room, Library, and all its Bedrooms are pleasantly situated.
Table d'Hote at 6 o'clook during- the Season;
Arrangements made for Families. TARIFF ON APPLICATION.
W. H. PALMER, Proprietor.
ARDENTINNY.
ARDENTINNY HOTEL,
LOCH LONG.
M FERGUSON, for many years head steward of the Loch Long and Loch Goil • Steamers, has leased the above Hotel, which is beautifully situated on the banks of Loch Long, and at the entrance to the celebrated Glen Finart. This Hotel has been thoroughly repaired and elegantly furnished, and visitors are assured that every attention will be paid to their comfort.
CHARGES MODERATE.
Posting, with careful Drivers. Fishing Boats.
~	BALLATER.	"
INVERCAULD ARMS HOTEL
UNDER NEW MANAGEMENT
In connection with the Invercauld Arms Hotel, Braemar. POSTING IN ALL ITSTBRANCHES, COACH TO BRAEMAR DAILY ON AND AFTER 1ST MAY,
M'GREGOR.BANAVIH-BATtl.	5,
BANAVIE, BY FORT WILLIAM.
LOCHIEL ARMS HOTEL.
TOHN MENZIES recently lessee of the Caledonian Hotel, Inverness, begs to aimojanee " to his Patrons and the general Travelling Community that he has token a lea So of this elegant and comfortable first-class Hotel.	<
Banavie is the most convenient resting-place for Tourists desiring to Join Mr. David MacBrayne's steamer, which leaves Banavie Wharf for Inverness daily at 10 a.m. (except at the beginning and end of the season, when the steamer starts earlier) as they can then avoid the necessity of a very early start.
Parties going South can break the journey at Banavie and join Mr. MacBrayne's "Swift Steamer," which leaves Corpach during the season at 6.15 a.m., as also his '* Mail Steamer" from Corpach daily during the year at 9.0. a.m., for Oban, Edinbul]gh, Glasgow, and the South, arriving in Edinburgh and Glasgow the same evening in time for the South trains.
The Hotel forms a most convenient basis of operation for those who wish to ascend the far famed Ben Nevis, upon which an Observatory is about to be erected. A meteorological station has already been placed upon it. Guides for the ascent can always be obtained at the Hotel. TheHdrives and walks are unequalled in Scotland, and are as follows :—The Falls of Glen Nevis, Glen Fruan, Loch Eil, Loch Shiel, Loch Arkaig, Glen Spean ; the parallel roads at Glen Roy, Glen Col, and the ruins of Inverlochy, and Tor Castles.
FAMILIES BOABDED BT THE WEEK OB MONTH.
First-Class Billiard and Smoking Room. Posting in all its Departments. Post and Telegraph Office adjoining.
THE CHARGES WILL BE STRICTLY MODERATE.
BATH, CHB.IST0PHEE HOTEL.
JAMES ROBINSON, Proprietor.
THE oldest existing Family and Commercial Hotel in the City, situated in the High Street, close to the Abbey, Guild Hall, and Public Markets,; ■within five minutes' walk from the Great Western and Midland Railway Stations. It commands an uninterrupted view of the picturesque hills .of Bathwick and Hampton Downs. Every attention paid to visitors to this famous City, who desire to combine the comforts of a home with the freedom of a Hotel.	^n Qmn^us meei$ every Train.
Night Porter kept. Prices Moderate.
BATH.
CASTLE HOTEL.
The Oldest Established and most Central for Families, Private and Commercial Gentlemen.
JOHN RUBIE, Proprietor.featfi.
jpT .GRAND
PUMP ROOM HOTEL
Is. 'situated in the centre of the City, and connected with the finest suite of Mineral Water Baths in Europe,
IMMEDIATELY OPPOSITE THE GRAND PUMP ROOM AND ABBEY.
This Eja^idsetm Hotel is replete with every yecommodation, and is especially' adapted for those, requiring the use of the Bath Waters.	'
. Th| Wiles Ire Wefijlly Selected; and tljje C^iis^ie.
an experienced Chef.
For Particulars apply to
.■r^iiij-.'i'f U; '
C. W. RADWAY, Lessee.BELFAST-—BIDEFORD.
7
BELFAST.
THE IMPERIAL HOTEL.
FIRST CLASS.	BEST SITUATION.
Omnibuses meet all Trains and Steamers.
W. J. JURY, Proprietor.
BELFAST. ROBINSONS COMMERCIAL TEMPERANCE HOTEL,
82 DONEGALL STREET.
ESTABLISHED 1851.
A FIRST-CLASS Family and Commercial Hotel. Conducted on strictly Abstinence Principles. Comfort, Quiet, and moderate Charges.
Private Sitting1 Rooms and Show Rooms.
EGLINTON AND WINTON HOTEL,
HIGH STREET, BELFAST,
First-class Family and Commercial,
Is splendidly situated, being most convenient to Banks, Post Office, &c. TRAM CARS PASS THE DOOR. HANDSOME BILLIARD AND SMOKING ROOMS. Omnibuses attend all Trains and Steamers,
NIGHT PORTER. TERMS MODERATE.
JOHN MANTELL, Proprietor.
BIDEFORD, DEVONSHIRE. TANTON'S
FIRST-CLASS FAMILY AND COMMERCIAL HOTEL AND POSTING HOUSE. mHIS Hotel is pleasantly situated, facing the river Torridge, noted for its Salmon, Trout, and other fishing. An Omnibus meets every train; private Omnibuses and Carriages can be had at the shortest notice.
BILLIABDS.
N.B.—The Mail-Coach starts from this Hotel daily at 7.15 a.m., taking passengers, parcels, etc., for Clovelly, Hartland, and its neighbourhood.
CHAS. E. OLEMOW, Proprietor. and at Anderton's Hotel, Fleet Street, London.8r-	BIDBFORp-r-rBETTWS-Y-OOED.
BJDJEFORD.
NEW INN FAMILY HOTEL
' V	HENRY ASOOT, Proprietor.	; (
rFB9B,HAe oldest,- largest, and principal I^Bnrily and- Commercial"fioter ami Posting House, is pleasantly situated in an elevated and central part of the town, and commands extensive views of the River Torridge and surrounding country, and is eleven miles distant from Clovelly.
PRIVATE SUITES OF APARTMENTS. COFFEE, COMMERCIAL AND BILLIARD ROOMS. POSTING AND LIVERY STABLES. Omnibuses meet all Trains.
BETTWS-Y-COED.
ROYAL OAK HOTEL.
THIS Hotel has an unrivalled situation, and is very suitable as a centre from which the -most beautiful scenery in North Wales may be visited. It is near the Station, to which it has a private road. The coaches for Llanberis, Beddgelert, and Bango^, start daily from the Hotel.
AN OMNIBUS MEETS EVERY TRAIN. FISHING TICKETS FOR ALL TEE NEIGHBOURING RIVERS. Billiards. Lawn Tennis. Archery. P'OSTING IN 'ALL ITS BRANCHES. Pavid Cox's celebrated Signboard Picture. E. PULLAN, Proprietor (Ten Years Proprietor of the Crown Hotel, Harrogate).bettws-y-oohd-blalb-athole.	9
BETTWS-Y-COED, NORTH WALES.
THE GWTDYR HOTEL.
IS Hotel, which is near the Railway Station, offers every comfort and attention to Families and Tourists.
Tickets for fishing may be had at the bar.
E. FAICHKEY, Proprietor.
BLAI R-ATHOLE.
THE TILT HOTEL.
Within Five Minutes' Walk from the Railway Station. » ALEXANDER STEWART, Proprietor. HPHIS HOTEL, under new Management, is beautifully situated opposite the entrance of famous Glen Tilt, Blair Castle Grounds, and within walking distance of the Falls op Fender, The Salmon Leap, and other objects of interest.
Visitors and Tourists honouring this Hotel will find every attention paid to their comfort and convenience, combined with moderate charges. POSTING IN ALL ITS DEPARTMENTS. The Drives include Glen Tilt, the Pass of Killiecrankie, Queen's Yieiw, Loch Tummel, Loch Rannoch, Falls of Tummel, Falls of Bruar, &c. &c.
Letters and Telegrams for Apartments or Conveyances punctually attended to.
An Omnibus to and from the Station free of Charge.
Parties boarded bg the week at a reduced rate except during August. Guides and Ponies for Glen Tilt, Braemar, and other excursions.ID	B'LAik-ATHOLE.
BLAIR-ATHOLE.
ATHOLE ARMS HOTEL.
Adjoining the "Railway Station. No Omnibus necessary.
THE recently completed additions render this Hotel one of t^e largest and best appointed in the Highlands, while this yeajr, by Jfujtl^er refurbishing in the first style, no expense has been spared to enhance its reputation.
: 'Taklb ij'Hote daily during the season in the well-known magnificent Dining Hall, with which is connected en suite a spacious and elegantly furnished Drawing-Room.
Special terms for Board, by the week, except during August.
Blair-Athole is much the nearest and most central point from which to. visit Killiecranlde, the Queen's "View, Loch Tummel, Rannoch, Glen Tilt, Braemar j the Falls of Bruar, Garry, Tummel, and Fender ; the grounds of Blair Cistfe, &o. ; and it is the most convenient resting-place for breaking the long railway journey to and from the North of Scotland.
The Posting Department is thoroughly well equipped.
Experienced Guides and Ponies for Glen Tilt, Braemar, and Mountain Excursions.
D. & P. T. MACDONALD, PropHetots.BLAIRGOWRIE-BRAEMAB.

BLAIRGOWRIE. QUEEN'S .gJiltfte HOTEL.
Haifa Century.
rpHE Above long-established and first-class Hotel has recently been much enlarged and improved, so that Families, Tourista, and Commercial Gentlemen will find in it every comfort and attention. Blairgowrie is on the shortest and most direct route to Braemar and Balmoral, the drive to which is very grand, passing Craighall (Col. Clerk-Rattray), one of the most picturesquely-situated mansions in Scotland. Post Horses and Carnages of every description, with careful Drivers.
Charges strictly Moderate. Coaches to Braemar early in July. Passengers booked at the Hotel. An Omnibus waits all Trains.	D. MDONALD, Proprietor.
Orders by Post or Telegram for Rooms, Carriages, or Coach seats, careftilly attended to.
BRAEMAR.
THE IUVERCAULD ARMS,
The finest Hotel situation in Scotland. ^Recently re-erected after Plans by J. T. Wimpebis, Esq., Sackville St., London. MAGNIFICENT DINING SHALL, ELEGANT LADIES' DRAWINQi ROOM, AND NUMEROUS SUITES OF APARTMENTS.
POSTING IN ALL ITS BRANCHES,
Coaches during the Season to Blairgoiorie, DunJceld, and Batlaier. Excellent Salmon Fishing in connection with the Hotel. Letters and Telegrams Punctually attended to.
A. M'GREGOR.12
BRAEMAR.
THE FIFE ARMS HOTEL
BRAEMAR, BY BALMORAL.
Patronised by Royal Family and Court. lX/TR. M'NAB begs respectfully to inform tlie Nobility, Gentry, and Tourists, that the extensive additions to the Hotel are now completed. ^ The Hotel, as now constructed, comprises over 100 Bedrooms, a Dining Saloon (one of the largest and most elegant in Scotland), elegant Private Sitting-Rooms, Ladies' Drawing-Room, Billiard-Boom, and Bath-Rooms.
Charges strictly moderate. Letters or Telegrams will receive the most careful attention. Posting in all its varied departments. Coaches during the Season daily from the hotel to Blairgowrie and Dunkeld, and twice daily between Ballater and Braemar.
Parties Boarded by the Week or Month. Note.—Gentlemen staying at the Hotel can have excellent Salmon or Trout Fishing.BRAT-BRIDGE OF ALLAN.
13
{IRELAND) INTERNATIONAL HOTEL,; BRAY,
County Wicklow.
THIS FIRST-CLASS HOTEL is situated near the RailwayStation, Sea-beach, and Esplanade, ^central to all the far-famed Scenery of the County of Wicklow.
Visitors to this fashionable place will find The Intebnational Hotel replete with every comfort, and the Cuisine and Wines of the best quality. All Qharges are fixed and moderate. Boarding Terms per week may be had on application to the Managed
C. DUFRESNE, Proprietor.
BRIDGE OF ALLAN.
QUEEN'S HOTEL.
This Hotel affords excellent accommodation for Tourists and Visitors. The Hotel 'Bus meets all Trains.
A. ANDERSON, Proprietor.
BRIDGE OF ALLAN.
THE
BOYAL	HOTEL.
THIS well-known First-Class Hotel has extensive and superior accommodation for Tourists and Families, with a large Drawing Room and Dining Room for Ladies and Gentlemen, and beautifully laid out Pleasure Grounds. Charges strictly moderate. Is situated close to this famous Spa. ; Its Central position makes it the.most desirable residence for visiting all the finest scenery in Scotland. Posting establishment complete. A 'Bus belonging to the Hotel awaits all the Trains.
ROBERT PHILP, Proprlttor.BRIDGE OP ALLAN-CALLANDER.
HYDROPATHIC ESTABLISHMElit.
BRIDGE OF ALLAN, NEAR STIRLING.
jgEAUTIFULLY situated and sheltered by the Ochils on a dry and porous soil. The House is replete with every comfort and convenience. Elegant Suite of Baths.
Terms, including all charges, £2 :12 :6 per week.
Applications to be addressed to Mr. M'KAY, House Superintendent. BRIDGE OF ALLAN.
CARMICHAEL'S HOTEL
TEMPERANCE.
Within easy access of Callander, the Trossachs, and Loclilomond. Posting in all its Branches. Hotel 'Bus attends all trains. CALLANDER.
THE DREADNOUGHT HOTEL
(Adjacent to the Railway Station)
T8 the largest and best Hotel in Callander, and universally known to be one of the most comfortable in Scotland. It is a most convenient residence for Tourists torl^e Trossachs, Loch Vennachar, Loch Lubnaig, Loch Earn, Loch Tay, Dalmally, etc., and there is no better centre for Anglers. Visitors staying at this Hotel will receive $>er-tnission to fish for Salmon over a considerable stretch of the River Teith. Arraiigenieiits 'as to boats and experienced boatmen made at the Hotel. Special terms .made, for parties residing for a period. Posting in all its branches.BUXTON.
,15
BUXTON, DERBYSHIRE.
S1
H
L
rjlHIS First-Class HOTEL for FAMILIES and GENTLEMEN forms the South Wing of the Crescent, It is only One Minute from Kailway Stations, and is connected by Covered Colonnade with the Hot and Natural Baths, Drinking Wells, and the New Pavilion and Gardens, where a splendid Band performs Four Hours daily.	-
THE ASSEMBLY ROOM
in this Hotel, which has long been celebrated for its elegant proportions, has recently been redecorated in the first style, and is now converted into the
DINING-ROOM OF THE HOTEL.
Public, Dining, Drawing, Smoking, and Billiard Booms.
SUITES OF APARTMENTS FOR PRIVATE FAMILIES.
TABLE D'HOTE AT 6 P.M.
FIRST-CLASS STABLING AND LOCK-UP COACH-HOUSES.
r JOHN SMILTEK, Proprietor.16
CARLISLE—CARNARVON—CHATSWORTH.
CARLISLE.
THE COUNTY AND STATION HOTEL,
"T710R Families and Gentlemen, is connected with the Platform of the Central Railway Station by a covered way. Por&ijb ffSj^n this Hotel are in attendance on arrival of all Trains.	*
A Ladies' Coffee-Room.
CARNARVON, NORTH WALES.
THE ROYAL HOTEL
(LATE UXBRIDGE ASMS), FIRST-CLASS FAMILY 8c COMMERCIAL ESTABLISHMENT,
Beautifully situated on the Banks of the Menai Straits, and in close proximity to the 'Railway Station.
EDWARD HUMPHREYS.
An Omnibus will regularly attend the arrival of each Train at the Railway Station.
Billiards in detached premises. On and after June 19th, a Coach round Snowdon, after the arrival of the 19.25 a.m. train, via Beddgelert, Vale of Gwynant, and the Pass of Llanberis, arriving at the hotel for dinner, and in time for the train for Llandudno, Rhyl, &c.
CHATSWORTH HOTEL, EDENSOR,
DERBYSHIRE.
This Hotel Is beautifully situated in Chatsworth Park, and within ten minutes' walk of the princely residence of the Duke of Devonshire.
The hotel is the largest in the neighbourhood, and its proximity to the Bowsley Station, on the Midland Railway, affords every facility to Tourists desirous of visiting the beauties of Haddon Hall, Matlock, the Mines at Castle ton, Dove Dale, etc. Omnibuses from the hotel meet all the principal trains at Rowsley Station. A spaoious Coffee-Room for Ladies. Private Sitting and well-appointed Bed-Rooms. Pojfc-horna, etc. HENRY HARRISON, Proprietor ;
in connection with ST. ANN'S HOTEL, BUXTON. SaMway Station, Rowsley.	Postal address, Bake will.
Day Tickets for the Chatsworth Fishery.CHESTER—OOLWYN BAT—OONWAY.	&
CHESTER.
THE GROSVENOR HOT EJh
FIRST-CLASS. Situated in the centre of the City, close to the Cathedral and
other objects of interest. A Large Coffee-Room and Ladies' Drawing Room for the convenience of Ladies and Families. The Bedrooms are large and handsomely furnished.	'
Open and close Carriages, and Posting in all its Branches.
Omnibuses attend the Trains for the use of Visitors to the Hotel. Tariff to be had on application. A Night Porter in attendance.
DAYID FOSTER, Manager.
COLWYN BAY, NORTH WALES.
POLLYCROGHON HOTEL
(Late the Residence of Lady Erskine).
First-class Family Hotel is most beautifully situated in its own finely-wooded park in Colwyn Bay, commanding splendid land and sea views; there are miles of delightful walks in the adjacent woods. It is within a few minutes' walk of the Beach and ten minutes' of Colwyn Bay Station, and a short drive of Conway and Llandudno. Sea-Bathing, Billiards, Posting.
J. PORTER, Proprietor.
CONWAY.
THE CASTLE HOTEL.
J1IRST-CLASS. Beautifully situated in the Yale of Conway, and very central for Tourists in North Wales.
BOOBK.
IMPERIAL	HOTEL
CORK.
P. GURRY, Proprietor.
fFHIS long-established and well-known Hotel is conducted on the most approved and modern system. It possesses every requisite to promote the Comfort and Convenience of Tourists. The Hotel contains
OYER ONE HUNDRED BEDROOMS,
Three Coffee Rooms, Commercial Room, a Drawing Room for Ladies and Families, Suites of Private Apartments, Smoking and Billiard Rooms, Bath Rooms, iic.
TABLE D'HOTE DAILY AT HALF-PAST SIX O'GLOCK.
The Hotel adjoins the General Post Office; as also the Commercial Building, where Merchants meet on "'Change," and the earliest Telegraphic NeWs is received, to the Reading Room of which Visitors to the Hotel have free access. It has. been patronised within the last few years by their Royal Highnessesthe Prince of Wales, Duke of Connaught, Prince Alfred, Prince Napoleon, the. Due D'Orleans, the Comte de Paris, and the Count de Flandres, the successive Lords-Lieutenant of Ireland—Clarendon, Eglinton, Carlisle, Abercorn, and Marlborough—as well as by the Nobility, and most of the -leading Gentry visiting Cork.
The Charges will be found most Moderate.
The Imperial Omnibuses attend the arrival and departure of each Train.
ExJvApt fro*n Sir C17SACK EOMET'S uMonth in Ireland:"
"Judge Haliburton (Sam Slick) says, 'There are two things to be recommended to the notice' of visitors to Ireland:—If you are an admirer of "beautiful scenery, go to the Cove of Cork ; if you want a good hotel, go to the Imperial' The Hotel in question is situated in Pembroke Street, having an entrance also in the South Mall, through the Commercial Buildings, the splendid News Room of which is open to visitors to the Hotel. For convenience and comfort there is not a hotel superior to it in the Empire."CORK-CRIHFF-DAWLISH,	t lj)
CORK.
STEPHENS' COMMERCIAL HfrT-EL
(Opposite the General Post Office, Cork)	|
J)OSSESSES first-class accommodation for Tourists, Commercial Gentlemen, and Families. It is very centrally situated, being opposite the General Post Office—close to the Bank, Theatre, &c. &c.
Charges extremely Moderate.
WILLIAM D. STEPHENS, Proprietor
From the West of England.	1 *
Extract from a " Tour through Ireland," published in the j North Briton, 1864 :— " When we arrived in Cork we took up our quarters at Stephens' Commercial Hotel, where we obtained excellent accommodation.
" What this Hotel lacks in external show is amply compensated by unremitting attention on the part of the Proprietors and their attendants to the comfort of their Guests."
CRIEFF. THE DRUMMOND A EMS HOTEL.
First-Class. Renovated and Refurnished. Under new management. Families boarded by Week or Month. Iisnge Posting Establishment.
The Hotel Omnibus meets every Train. _W. C. S. SCOTT, Proprietor.
THE
EOYAL -^M&i HOTEL,
D A W LIS H.	, • |J
THIS Hotel is situated close to the Beach and Railway Station, and is the only Hotel with an unintemqrted Sea View. Public Drawing Room. Coffee and Private Rooms, Table D'Hote at Seven. BILLIARD AND SMOKING ROOMS.
C, BALL, Proprietor.So	DERBY—DR0G3EDA—DUBLIN (m also p. 22).
DERBY.
THE ST. JAMES'S HOTEL,
IN the centre of the Town, facing the Post Office and Corn Market, is new and modern built, with every convenience for Families and Commercial Gentlemen. A Large Hall for Meetings, Wedding Breakfasts, Concerts, &c. Hot and Cold Baths. Stock Rooms.
THE NEW STABLING IS PERFECT AND EXTENSIVE.
J. WAGSTAFF, Proprietor.
DROGHEDA.
WHITE HORSE HOTEL.
JAMES J. KEAPPOCK, Proprietor, begs to announce that, having greatly enlarged _ the above old Established Commercial and Family Hotel, he has now ample accommodation for all who may favour him with their patronage, and trusts, by strict attention to the comfort of his visitors, to merit a continuance of the support he has so long received.
Private Rooms. Billiard Room.
Posting in all its Branches. An Omnibus attends the Trains.
DUBLIN.
SHELBOURNE HOTEL.
SITUATED in most central and fashionable part of Dublin, and is the great Tourist Hotel of Ireland. Contains magnificent Public Rooms, Elevator, Telegraph Office, &c. &c. First-Class. Charges Moderate.
JURY & COTTON, Proprietors.
DUBLIN.
THE GRESHAM HOTEL.
First-Glass Accommodation, combined vnth Moderate Charges.
PROPRIETORS—THE GRESHAM HOTEL CO., LIMITED.DUNBLANE.	21_
DUNBLANE HYDROPATHIO ESTABLISHMENT.
mHIS Magnificent Establishment, built on a commanding eminettee feoiBg iMe -L Grampian Hills, and in close proximity to Dunblane Railway Station, affept% Tourists and Travellers all the Luxuries and Conveniences of a First-Class Metropolitan Hotel^and to parties requiring rest and change all the comforts.and appliances (including the most skilled Medical Treatment) of the best English Hydro^athio - Institutions,—all combined with, the most Moderate Charges.
Situated in the very centre of Scotland, at the entrance to the Highlands of Perthshire, Dunblane is on Important Hallway Junction on the Main. Una betrAreazf' England and the North of Scotland, about one hour from Edinburgh, Glasgow, Perth, or Dundee, and forms a most convenient stopping place for parties travelling to or from Perthshire, Argyllshire, Inverness-shire, and Aberdeenshire.
The Branch-line to the Troaaacha, Killin, Oban, Inveraray, and the West Highlands, leaves the main line at Dunblane: and Travellers stopping at Dunblane can break the journey there without extra, charge.	1
Th? Coup6ns issued by the Railway Company are accepted in the Establishment. Private Sitting-rooms, Superb Public Drawing-room, Ladies' Room, Dining-room, Billiard-room, and large Recreation-room 120 feet long, where Visitors may find amusement in wet weather.
A complete system of Baths free to Visitors.
An Omnibus meets the arrival and departure of all trains between 8 a.m. and 8.87p.m.
The scenery around Dunblane is unsurpassed in Scotland, and the neighbourhood abounds in magnificent Walks and Drives. The fallowing] trips can be easily iaade, returning to the Establishment the same day :—The Trossachs, Loch Lomond, Edinburgh, Glasgow, Perth, Stirling Castle, Donne Castle, Field ofBaniiockbnrtv CattJe Campbell, Rumbling Bridge, Roman Camp at Ardoch, the most perfect Roman Camp In Britain, &C. &c. .
The charges for driving are very moderate, and the roads are free of Tolls.22	DUBLIN-DUNKELD-DUNOON.
A	DUBLIN.
JURY'S HOTEL, COLLEGE GREEN.
The most Central Hotel in the City.
Superior Accommodation. Tariff extremely Moderate. Table d'Hote at 3 and '6.30 p.m. daily.
LADIES' COFFEE, DINING, AND DRAWING ROOMS.
~	DUNKELD.
THE DUKE OF ATHOLE'S ARMS HOTEL.
D. ROBERTSON, Proprietor (late Grant's).
fHIS Hotel, from its situation close to the beautiful Bridge of Dunkeld, commands J- an unrivalled view of the magnificenkscenery on either side of the Biver Tay. The Apartments, both public and Private, are elegantly furnished and well aired.
Her Majesty the Queen, in her Journal of her Life in the Highlands, has been graciously pleased to take notice of this Hotel as being very clean, and having such a charming view from the windows. The Empress of the French, with her Son, the Prince Imperial, also visited this Hotel, and was pleased to express her entire approval of all the arrangements. Evert Attention is paid to the Comfort op Visitors. Job and Post Horses, with Careful Drivers. An Omnibus awaits the arrival of all the Trains. Seats can be Beonred at this Hotel for the Braemar Coaoh..
DUNOON.
ARGYLL HOTEL.
THE ONLY FIRST-CLASS HOTEL IN DUNOON.
Situated close to the Pier, and commanding a magnificent view of the Firth of Clyde.
"Visitors staying "at this Hotel are supplied with Guide -Books to tlia Kylps of Bute, per "Columba ;" Inverary and Loch Fyne per "Lord of the Isles;" Arran, Ayr, Loch Lomond, Loch Katrine, Trossachs, Looh Long, and Gareloch ; all returning the same day.
Coaches leave the Hotel daily for Loch Eck, by which is the favourite New Route for Inverary and Oban.
TABLE D'HOTE DAILY AT 6.30 P.M.
Qpeoial Reduced Bates for Parties staying a Week or longer.
JOHN KENNEDY, Proprietor and Manager.DUNOON-EDINBURGH.
23
UNDER NEW MANAGEMENT.
ROYAL	HQT EL,
DUNOON. ' '
WM. M'DONALD, late manager, Dreadnought Hotel, Callander, begs to intimate that he has taken a lease of the Royal, which has been recently enlarged, and contains First-Class accommodation for Families and Commercial Gentlemen, and is within two minutes' walk of the Pier. Wm. M'D., from his long experience in first-class hotels, will do his best, by strict attention to business, combined with moderate charges, to maintain, and, if possible, increase the reputation and prestige of the Royal. SPECIAL TERMS BY WEEK OB MONTH. BILLIARD ROOM ATTACHED.
_Coaches start from Hotel to Loch Eck and Sandbank daily-_
DUNOON.
THE CROWN HOTEL.
(Situated close to the Pier.)
THIS first-class Hotel has been lately enlarged and refurnished, and Tourists and Travelling Public will find every comfort, combined with moderate charges. Dunoon, by its mild climate, is recommended for a Winter Residence, and the " Crown " offers every comfort. Full Board 50s. per week.
Hot and Cold Sea Water Baths. Table d'Hote Daily,
OSCAR TROEGER, Proprietor.
~~	EDINBURGH.	= "
WINDSOR HOTEL,
100 PRINCES STKEET.
(iOpposite the Castle)
A. M, THIEM, PROPRIETOR.
rpHIS old-established Hotel, one of_the finest in Edinburgh, entirely rebuilt and -L refurnished in the most elegant manner, offers superior accommodation and comfort. The Proprietor is especially cognisant of the needs of the Nobility and Gentry, and spares no pains to render their sojourn with him agreeable,
THE ROYAL ALEXANDRA HOTEL
11, 12, & 13 SHANDWICK PLACE, EDINBURGH.
West End ofPrinces Street, and in the immediate neighbourhood of the Caledonian and Eaymarket Stations.
THIS First-class Family Hotel was opened on the 1st of June 1874*by MISS BROWN, formerly of the "Windsor Hotel, Moray Place, and the Clarendon Hotel, Princes Street. The Royal Alexandra. Hotel has been entirely rebuilt, and fitted up with every modern improvement required for the convenience and comfort of visitors, and Miss Brown ho^pea to merit a continuance of the favours she has already received. Coffee-room and public Drawing-room.21
EDINBURGH.
, _	EDINBURGH.
PHILP'S GOGKBURN HOTEL,
Immediately adjoining the terminus of the Midland and Great Northern Trains, Waverley Bridge Station.
'THIS commodious and well -known Hotel is beautifully situated, overlooking Pbinoes Street Gardens, and commanding some of the finest views of the City.
(In. connection with Phil/p's Cocktnirn
Hotel, Glasgow.) Eioellent Turkish and other Baths
In both Hotels. Charges, including Attendance, strictly Moderate. N.R—Mr. Cook (of London) makes this Hotel his headquarters when in Scotland, where every information maybeobtainedof his Tonristarrange-ments, and Tickets for Highland and othpr Tours supplied.
GLASGOW.
PWILP'S cockburn hotel,
141 BATH STREET.
rpHE Cockburn Hotel, containing -*- upwards of 100 Rooms, is specially planned and constructed with every Modern Improvement to meet the requirements of a First-Class Hotel. Situated in an elevated and qqleb but central and convenient part off the City; within easy access of the different Railway Stations and Steam-Ship Landings. Street Cars pass within a few yards to all parts of the City.
^ Passenger Elevator to every landing.
Agent for CooVs System o/ Tburs to the Hiahlamds and Islands of Scotland, and Tickets supplied same as at the Edinburgh House.
Both Hotels conducted on the same principles.EDINBURGH.
(One of the finest Hotels in Europe.)
THE
ROYAL HOTEL
DONALD MACGREGOR, Proprietor, 53 PRINCES STREET, EDINBURGH.
The Royal Hotel is within a hvmdred yards of Railway Terminus, and occupies the finest position in the City.
PLACES OF INTEREST SEEN" FROM HOTEL:— Arthur's Seat, over 800 feet high. Assembly HalL Cal-ton HilL Edinburgh Castle. East and West Princes Street Gardens. Free Church College and Assembly Hall. Royal Observatory. Sir Walter Scott's Monument. Salisbury Crags. St. Giles's Cathedral. Parliament House. The Royal Institution. The Royal Scottish Academy and National Gallery. The Antiquarian Museum. From tower of Hotel are seen the Firth of Forth, Bass Rock, the Lomond, Corstorphine, and Pentland Hills, and a'part of four or five of the neighbouring counties.
Charges Moderate. Rooms from 2s. 6d. Passenger Elevator. Night Porters.
CAUTION.—Visitors intending to put up at the Royal must be cmeful to see that they are taken there, as mistakes have occurred causing great disap» pointment.26
EDINBURGH.
CRANSTON'S OLD
WAVERLEY
TEMPERANCE HOTEL,
43 PRINCES STREET, EDINBURGH.
ROBERT CRANSTON, in returning thanks to his numerous Friends and the Public, begs to inform them that the above Hotel has been reconstructed, fitted, and furniahed with all the most modern improvements which the present times can supply, and that, notwithstanding the great rise in the value of property in Princes Street, and the high prices of labour and material in the erection of his New Hotel, the charges for Bed-Rooms remain the same as they were 33 years ago. Hoping for a continuance of their kind patronage, R. C. will make it his constant endeavour to attend to the comfort, convenience, and interest of his Friends.
TO STRANGERS unacquainted with Edinburgh, R. C. begs to intimate that the situation of the Old Wavebley is within one minute from the Great Central Railway Station, and commands the Grandest Views in the City ; while the street itself is said to be the finest in the world. Immediately opposite the Hotel, and forming the south side of Princes Street, is the Garden Terrace, a public promenade, upon which stand the unequalled "Scott" and other noble monuments, while the gardens below form the valley betwixt the Old and New Towns. To the west, the grand old Castle, towering over the city; to the south, the romantic Old Town, with St. Giles's Cathedral and other prominent structures; and to the east, Arthur's Seat, Holyrood Palace, and Calton Hill, the view from the latter of which is said to surpass even that of the Bay of Naples.
Uniform Charges are made at the following Hotels, belonging to the same Proprietor :—
EDINBURGH	OLD WAVERLEY, 43 PRINCES STREET.
EDINBURGH	NEW WAVERLEY, 18 WATERLOO PLACE.
GLASGOW	185 BUCHANAN STREET.
LONDON"	4 LAWRENCE LANE, CHEAPSIDE.
Breakfast or Tea	Is. 3d., Is. 6d., Is. 0d.
Public Dinner	2s.
Bed-Room	Is. 6d.
Private Parlours	3s.
Service	Is.
ITIHE NEW WAVERLEY, Waterloo Place, contains numerous and com--L modious Stock-Rooms on the ground-floor, well suited for all kinds of Commercial Merchandise. Also a large Hall on the ground-floor, seated for about 700 people, for Public Meetings, Concerts, &c. _
Recommended by Bradshaw's Tourists' Guide as " the cheapest and best Temperance Hotel they had ever seen," and by J. B. Gough as " the only Home he had found aiao« leaving his own In America."EDINBURGH.	27
EDINBURGH. CALEDONIAN HOTEL,
115, 116, & 117 PRINCES STREET, and 1, 3, & 5 CASTLE STREET, Established 50 Tears. (Exactly opposite the Castle.) R. B. Moore. Late J. Burnett.
EDINBURGH.
THE ROXBURGHE HOTEL,
CHARLOTTE SQUARE.
FIRST CLASS PRIVATE FAMILY HOTEL. Apartments en suite. COFFEE ROOM.	LADIES DRAWING-ROOM.
J. CHRISTIE, Proprietor.
EDINBURGH.
THE LONDON HOTEL
ST. ANDREW SQUARE, EDINBURGH.
Established, upwards of Fifty Tears.	Patronised by Royalty.
A Commodious and Comfortable Hotel, most conveniently situated. Proprietor, HENRY" WHITE, late Clubmaster to the "University Club.
BEDFORD HOTEL,
83 PKINCES STEEET, EDINBURGH.
Recently leased by Mme, Dejay (late of Dejay's Hotel), and under her own personal superintendence. Unsurpassed for comfort, economy, and quietness.
Most moderate Terms.	Cuisine, d la franqaise.
Coffee Room and Iiadies' Drawing-Room.
This Hotel is situated in the best part of Princes Street, and commands a good view of the Castle. On parle franqais.28
EDINBURGH—EXETER.
DARLING'S REGENT HOTEL,
20 WATERLOO PLACE, EDINBURGH.
Nearly opposite the General Post-Office, and only a few minutes' walk from General Railway Terminus.
This is admitted to be one of the best Temperance Hotels in Scotland.
"Mr. Marshall's productions are not surpassed in interest and beauty by those of Castellanl himself."—Correspondent of the Scotsman on the International Exhibition.
ROYAL CLARENCE HOTEL,
CATHEDRAL YARD. WITH FULL VIEW OF THE GRAND OLD CATHEDRAL. FIRST CLASS HOTEL. REDUCED CHARGES. Every effort Is made to ensure the unqualified satisfaction of Ladies and Gentlemen. Handsomely Furnished Suites of Apartments. BILLIARD ROOM. LADIES' COFFEE ROOM. EOT AND COLD BATHS. Omnibuses and Cabs meet every Train.
PRIZE MEDALS,
1878.
EXETER.
J. HEADON STANBURY, Proprietor.ELGIN-FALMOUTH-FORRES.
29
ELGIN
STATION HOTEL.
THIS comfortable and commodious House occupies one of tlie best sites in the town, is close to both the railway stations, within five minutes' walk of the fine ruins of the cathedral, and within an easy drive of the beautiful and romantic Pluscarden Abbey and other places of interest in the neighbourhood. It is newly furnished in the best style, and contains suites of private rooms, Commercial, Coffee, and Drawing Rooms, large Dining Hall and Stock Rooms, Smoking Room, Billiard Room, and Bath Room; numerous Bedrooms. Hiring.
Letters and Telegrams promptly attended to!
Table dJHdte daily during the season*
WILLIAM CHRISTIE, Lessee.
Also in connection with the above—
THE STATION HOTEL, LOSSIEMOUTH.
. CHRISTIE begs to intimate that he has acquired a lease of this "comfortable sea-side Hotel, and has had it newly and handsomely furnished and decorated. Splendid views. Public Baths and good sea-.batliing within a few minutes'walk of the Hotels. Communications to bejaddressed to Station Hotel, Elgin.
Reduced tariff for both Hotels, to parties staying over three days.
FALMOUTH.
GREEN BANK HOTEL.
THIS HOTEL is beautifully situated, facing the Harbour, Pendennis, and
St. Mawes Castle, and is replete with every comfort for Families and Gentlemen. Very convenient for Boating and Fishing, there being a landing pier adjoining the House.	LADIES' COFFEE ROOM.
Billiard Boom. Posting in all its Branches. Charges Moderate.
The Hotel Omnibus meets all Trains. Suites of Rooms reserved on application to the Proprietor, J. H. MITCHELL.
Omnibus to and from the Lizard daily.
CAMPBELL'S ROYAL
STATION	HOTEL
FORRES, Adjoining the Railway Platform.
(Patronised by the Royal Family and Leading Members of the
Nobility and Aristocracy of Europe.) APABTMEKTTS EM" SUITE. SPACIOUS BILLIARD & SMOKING ROOM.
Boots m attendance at all Trains.
JAMES CAMPBELL, Proprietor and Lessee.30
6ARHLOOH.
THE SHANDON HYDROPATHIC
BEAUTIFULLY SITUATED ON THE GARELOCH, near HELENSBURGH. Terms, £3: 3s, per week, or lOs. 6d. per day.FORT-WILLIAM—GLASGOW.
31
FORT-WILLIAM.
THE ALEXANDRA HOTEL,
PARADE, FORT-WILLIAM.
Mrs. DOIG, Proprictrix. rpHIS Recently-Built First-Class Hotel is delightfully situated on the outskirts of the town, facing the sea, and commanding Magnificent Views of the surrounding mountains.
Parties Boarded by the Week or Month.	Every Comfort, with Moderate Charges.
Visitors to the Alexandra conveyed by Omnibus Free of Charge to and from all the steamers during the season.
_N.B.— Steamer leaves Pier daily for Inverness about 9 a.m._
GRAND HOTEL, CHARING GROSS, GLASGOW.
a * «
ffiagriGcGftt Hotel, containing over Two Hundred Apartments, ofTer»ui»iwaied _L accommodation to visitors. The Charges are strictly Moderate, and the'attendance all that can be desired. Secretary and General Manager, W. G. DAVIDSON.
Superintendent, ALEX. CAMPBELL (from M'Lean's Hotel).
NORTH BRITISH IMPERIAL HOTEL
(AT THE QUEEN STREET STATION),
GEQRGE SQUARE, GLASGOW. FIRST-CLASS FAMILY AND COMMERCIAL.
JAMES CUTHBfjRT, Proprietor.38
GLASGOW.
MACGEEGORS HOTEL
(LATE MACLEAN'S),
FOR FAMILIES AND GENTLEMEN,
250 ST. VINCENT STREET, GLASGOW.GLASGOW.
33
THE GEORGE HOTEL
(LATE THE QUEEN'S),
GEORGE SQUARE, GLASGOW.
TfOR Families and Gentlemen. Finest and most central situation in the City, 1 opposite General Post Office atfd Exchange, and close to all the Railway Stations. Side Entrance to Terminus of the North British Railway and East Coast Route, via York, from London.	D. M'LACHLAN, Proprietor.
THE ROYAL
GEOEGE SQUAKE, GLASGOW. OPPOSITE THE GENERAL POST OFFICE,
All Communications to be addressed to the Manager.
BLAIR'S HOTEL,,
80 BATH STREET, GLASGOW.
rpHIS New First-Class TEMPERANCE HOTEL, situated within Four Minutes' walk of the Principal Railway Stations, is unsurpassed for Cleanliness, Quiet, anil Comfort.
Private Parlours ti/ruL Stock Rooms.
Breakfast,	Dinner, _	b^d Room, Attendance,
l8.6d. Is. 9d. 2s. From Is. 0d. Is. 6d.	1b.
C34	GLASGOW-GLOUCESTER.
WASHINGTON TEMPERANCE HOTEL,
172 to 184 sauchiehall street, glasgow.
A First-Class Family and Commercial Hotel, within Three Minutes drive of the Railways.
Just added, Ladies' Drawing Room, free of charge. Breakfast and Tea, Is. 6d. and 2a. Bed and Attendance, 2s. 9d. GLASGOW.
HIS LORDSHIP'S LARDER AND HOTEL, 10 ST. ENOCH SQUARE, GLASGOW.
. Breakfasts* Luncheons, Dinners, Teas ; Oyster, Fish, and Tripe
Suppers. Good Rooms for Dinner, and Supper Parties. Excellent Bedrooms. Coffee-Room. Good Lavatory and Smoking-Room. Charges Moderate. Opposite St. Enoch Station Boohing Office.
_E. SALMON, Proprietor.
GLASGOW.
OtTY COMMERCIAL RESTAURANTS AND VEGETARIAN DINING ROOMS,
54 and 80 UNION STREET, and 42 ARGYLE STREET, GLASGOW.
TWO of the most extensive and comfortable Dining Establishments in Scotland, capable of acoommodating upwards of 2000 Visitors daily. Breakfasts, Dinners, and Teas served with comfort, economy, and despatch. Bill of Fare—Extra Moderate. LADIES' PRIVATE DINING ROOMS.	GENTLEMEN'S LAVATORIES.
No Gratuities to Waiters.
MATTHEW WADDELL, Proprietor.
GLOUCESTER.
SPREAD EAGLE HOTEL.
THIS Old-Establiahod First-Class Family Hotel will be found by visitors replete with every comfort. Well-ventilated Bed and Sitting Rooms en suite. Head-Quarters Bicycle Touring Club. Handsome Cotfoe Room. Hot and Cold Baths. Billiard and Smoking Rooms. First-rate Cuisine and choice Wines, Ac Good Stabling and Loose Boxes for Hunters, &c. An Elegant and Spacious Ball Room to be let for Balls, Concerts, Dinners, Meetings, Sales, &c. Tariff on application. Posting. Flys, &c.,
on hire.	The Hotel Omnibus meets all Trains.
A NIGHT PORTER ALWAYS IN ATTENDANCE. ' '	HENRY CHARLES GROGAN, ProprietorGLASGOW.	36
Noted House for Scotch Goods.,
NEILSON, SHAW, AND MACGREGOR,
44 BUCHANAN STREET, GLASGOW* SILK MERGERS, LINEN AND WOOLLEN DRAPERS,
SHAWL IMPORTERS, AND GENERAL WAREHOUSEMEN.
DEPARTMENTS— British and Foreign Bilks.	Clan and Fancy Tartans.
French and Paisley Shawls. Scotch and English Tweeds. Beal Shetland Shawls.	Beal Aberdeen Winceys.
Hosiery. Prints. Grenadines. Bibbons. Linens. Gloves.	Bareges. Paramattas. Flowers. Shirting*.
Parasols. Alpaccas. Knitting Tarns. Feathers. FlanneiEk Merinoes. Muslins. Trimmings. Laces.	Bed-Ticks.
Coburgs. Cambrics. Small Wares. Furs.	Blankets.
A Large Saloon fob MANTLES, MILLINERY, LADIES' OUTFIT, etc. MARRIAGE TROUSSEAUX of the Best Materials and Workmanship.
UPHOLSTERY DEPARTMENT.
CARPETS, OIL CLOTHS, WINDOW CORNICES, and CURTAIN FABRICS SCOTCH SHEETINGS, TABLE LINEN, etc.
A FULL STOCK OF SUMMER COSTUMES RFwV.Dy-M.ADR, OR MADE TO ORDER AT A FEW HOURS' NOTICE, For Coast and Travelling Season.
FAMILY MOURNINGS.
1Tie Best Materials supplied in all the Departments. A Competent Person sent to Residences in Town or Country to take instructions when
required.
TAILORING DEPARTMENT. For GENTLEMEN'S and* BOYS' SUITS-A Largs Variety of Scotch, English, and German Tweeds, Heather Mixtures, etc., always in Stock.
SHOOTING COATS, ULSTER COATS,. HIGHLAND CAPES, etc.. Made to Order on the shortest notice, tar FIRST-CLASS CUTTER ON THE PREMISES.1 This NEW DEPARTMENT applies also to LADIES' JACKETS, RIDING HABITS, COSTUMES, BODICES, and to MINISTEBS* GOWNS and CASSOCKS.36
GLASGOW.
TOURISTS AND STRANGERS VISITING GLASGOW
WILL FIND A LARGE AND WELL SELECTED VARIETY OF
VIEWS OF SCOTTISH SCENERY,
GUIDE-BOOKS, MAPS, &c. &c.
AT
REID'S TOURIST EMPORIUM,
144 ARGYLE STREET, GLASGOW,
Fourth Shop West of Buchanan Street.
Speciality.—White-Wood Gpoc^ with views of Scottish Scenery—very suitable as Souvenirs of Scotland—from 6d. and upwards.
SiSTH, SONS,
AND
SILK MERCERS, FAMILY DRAPERS, COMPLETE OUTFITTERS,
GENERAL WAREHOUSEMEN,
Carpet Merchants and Household Furnishers,
78 to 82 UNION STREET,
GLASGOW,
Have always a Lgxge, Choice, fully Assorted Stock; and Novelties are added to each Department as they appear.GLASGOW-GOLSPIE-GREENOCK.	3 T
Pocket Telescopes, showing Jupiter's Satellites, Houses at 10 miles, etc., 7s. 6d. Extra High. Power Telescope, two Powers, Terrestrial and Celestial, with
Tripod Stand, complete, in Walnut Case, 30s.
Large Brass Body Telescope, on Tripod stand, 3-in. Aperture, Terrestrial and
Celestial Eye-pieces, extra quality, in Case, £6. Shows Jupiter's Satellites and Belts, Saturn's Rings and Satellites, Double Stars,,etc.	■ •
The $Tew Binocular Telescope.
The best instrument made, without exception, for Sheep Farmers, Deer Stalkers Yachtsmen, or Riflemen. Highest possible power lu n portable instrument combined with extra Targe field. Prices from £5 to £15; the lilstru-, ment most frequently Bold being one at £8:10s.
Extra HiRh Power Field Glass,
Superior Definition, In Sling Case, 30s.
Miniature Field GiaBS or Opera Class, extra High Power, 12 lenses.;
closed up measures 31 in. by 2} in. Post free on receipt of P. O. Order for 21s.
Miniature Field or Opera Glass,
with 6 lenses, same dimensions as above. Price post free, 10s. 6(1. to any part of Britain on receipt of P. O. Order.
Magic Lanterns, suitable for Sunday
School Entertainments, from 42s. Liberal discount to Sunday School Societies, A few Second-Hand Instruments at Greatly Reduced Prices. Botanical Microscopes, from Is. upwards. Compound Microscopes, from 7s. 6d, to £150. Spectacles or Eye-Glasses, in Steel Frames, from 2s. 6d. Finest Pebble Spectacles, in Steel Frames, 7s. 6d. Gold, from 18s. Portable Cooking Apparatus, for Picnic Parties, and Travellers at Home or'
Abroad, from 4s. ad. This article requires only to be tried to be appreciated.
These Goods are all First-Class Quality, decidedly Superior to those Commonly Advertised;
JAMES BROWN, 76 St. Vincent Street, Glasgow,
GOLSPIE.
ROYAL SUTHERLAND ARMS HOTEL
BEAUTIFULLY situated within a mile of Dunrobin Castle, the Ground^ of which are open to the Public. Free Trout Fishing on Loch Brora for parties staying at the Hotel. Five-minutes' walk from sea-shore. Horses and Carriages on Hire. An Omnibus' meets Trains. Charges' moderate.	JAMES MITCHELL, Proprietor.
GREENOCK.
TONTINE HOTEL.
First-Class Family and Commercial
{Nearly Opposite the Caledonian Railway Station),
GREENOCK.
MRS. M'DERMOTT, Proprietrix.38
GUERNSEY-HARROGATE.
THE ISLAND OF GUERNSEY.
GARDNER'S ^ _ _ _ __- ___ _ _ _
ROYAL	HOTEL,
FAMILY & COMMERCIAL HOUSE, ESPLANADE, GUERNSEY.
rpHIS Hotel is situated in the most commanding part of the Island, facing the -1- spacious harbours and the approaches thereto, also having a full front view of the adjacent islands of Bark, Herm, Jersey, and Alderney. Visitors should be especially careful on landing to ask for the " Royal." Table d'Hote. Billiards for the use of visitors staying in the hotel only.	JAS B GARDNER, Proprietor.
GUERNSEY.
OLD GOVERNMENT HOUSE.
GARDNER'S PRIVATE HOTEL.
rIB establishment, being elevated above the town, commands a sea and panoramic view of all the Channel Islands. Visitors should be particular in mentioning the " Old Government House." Table d'H6te. Terras on application.
J. GARDNER, Proprietor.
"	GUERNSEY,. CHANNEL ISLANDS. '	='
VICTORIA HOTEL,
FAMILY AND COMMERCIAL,
COMMANDS the finest sea view in the Island. The established reputation of this Hotel is the best guarantee that every attention is paid to the comfort of its Patrons. Hot and Cold Baths always ready.
A Moderate fixed Tariff, including attendance. Private Sitting-Rooms. Ladies' Drawing-Room. Table d'H6te at six o'clock. A Porter in attendance on the arrival of Steamers.	,, ,	_
M. J. GREEN, Proprietress.
HARROGATE WELLS.
BARBER'S GEORGE HOTEL.
■\jnSITORS will find this Hotel conveniently situated, being within three minutes' walk * of the Sulphur and Cheltenham Springs, in the immediate vicinity of Public Baths, Concert Rooms, &c., and only seven minutes' walk from the Railway Station. Harrogate being a health resort, it is not expected that the patrons of this Hotel will use Wine, &c., if not required. The sheltered situation of this Hotel makes it admirably adapted for visitors in spring and autumn. Billiards. Excellent accommodation for Hunters, &c.
TERMS.—Board and Lodgings in Public Room, each 6s. 6d. ; Board and Lodging in Private Rooms, each 7s. 6d.; Private Sitting Room, 9s. to 5s.; Attendance and Boots, Is. 3d. N.B.—Beds charged extra if for less than three nights. Horses' Hay, 12s. per weqk. Qstler extra.Harrogate—helensburgh—hunter's quay. 39
HAEEOGATE.
ROYAL HOTEL.
WILLIAM KEIGHLEY, Proprietor.
JHIS first-class Family Hotel is most pleasantly and healthily situated, and is replete with every comfort for families. Within, five minutes' walk of the Railway Station.
__BILLIARD ROOM._
HELENSBURGH.
THE Finest Watering-Place in the West of Scotland. Trains and Boats to Loch Lomond and Trossachs, and Steamer every morning to Dunoon at 8.45, in time to meet the " Iona" for the Highlands by that most celebrated Route—Ardrishaig, Crinan, and Oban, to Staffa and Iona. The alterations and improvements at the queen's hotel are now completed, and the Suites of Apartments for Families cannot be surpassed. The view of the Clyde and Lake is most magnificent. Tourists conveniently arranged. A magnificent Coffee-Room. Smoking and Billiard Room.
All Charges strictly Moderate.
Omnibuses ahd Carriages to all Steamers and Trains.
A. WILLIAMSON," PfdpbUt&r:
HELENSBURGH,
IMPERIAL HO tf ££.
One Minute's walk from the Railway Station and Opposite Steamboat Wharf. All charges strictly moderate.
Tourists for Oban would do well to stay overnight at the " Imperial.1 Steamer leaves Helensburgh at 8.45 a.m., in connection with " Columba" or "Iona" at Dunoon.
D. SMITH, Proprietor.
HUNTEE'S QUAY, HOLY LOCH.
ROYAL MARINE HOTEL,
{Headquarters of Royal Clyde Yacht Club.)
QITUATED close to Hunter's Quay, at which pier Bteameis call Beverul tiroea a-/iajtr ^ and is within ten minutes' walk of Kirn Pier. The Hotel h^s lately, been considerably enlarged, and is most:comfortably furnished, offering superior accomiioldatioii for Families and Gentlemen. Charges strictly moderate. Visitors boarded by Day or Week. Coaches pass daily by Loch Eck Route to and from- Inverary. There is frequent communication between Dunoon and Sandbank by brakes. Boats kept for hire-	DAVID MUNNINGS, Manager.40	ilfracombe.
IIiFRACOMBE HOTEL.
"A MODEL OF SANITARY EXCELLENCE." THE ILFBACOIIIBE HOTEL, facing the Atlantic. Five Acre? of Ornamental Grounds. 250 Rooms.
Table -dliote nt iteparate Tables -daily from 6 to 8 o'clock.
There Is attaohed to the Hotel one of the largest Swimming Baths in England. Also Private Hot and Cold Sea and Fresh Water Baths, Douche, Shower, &c. Every information will be afforded by the Manager,
Ilfracombe, North Devon.
rTHE attractions of Ilfracombe, and the places of .interest in the -*- neighbourhood, point to it as the natural centre to be chosen by the Tourist who desires to see with comfort all the beauties of Coast and Inland Scenery which North Devon affords. There is also easy accessi^o. South Devon and Cornwall.- The means of communicar tia&iwMi Ilfracombe by Railroad and Steamboat aEre- most xjoihplate.
Tourist Tickets to Ufraco7n.be for two months are issued at all principal Stations.
THE ROYAL BRITANNIA HOTEL, ILFRACOMBE.
GOOD PUBLIC ROOMS. MODERATE TERMS. Address—The Manager.ILFRACOMBE-INNELLAN-INVERARAY.
41
ILFRACOMBE.
ROYAL CLARENCE
FAMILY AND COMMERCIAL HOTEL.
T) EPLETE with every Home comfort. A spacious Ladies' Coffee Room, with large number of Bedrooms, has recently been added. Large and Spacious Commercial and Stock Rooms. Moderate charges. Tariff on application.
First-Class Billiard Room. Omnibus meets every Train.
R. LAKE, Proprietor. N.B.—General Coach Office and Delivery Agent.
INNELLAN.
ROYAL	HOTEL.
TOHN CLARK, in returning thanks to his friends and the Public for past patronage, " begs to announce that the new additions to this already large and commodious Hotel are now finished, and include one of the largest and most handsome Dining-Room and Ladies' Drawing Room of any Hotel on the Firth of Clyde, also Parlours with suites of Bed Rooms on each flat.
The Hotel is within three minutes' walk of the Pier, and, being built upon an elevation, commands a sea-view of the surrounding country, including Bute, Arran, the Cumbraes, Ayrshire, Renfrewshire, and Dumbartonshire, making the sittmti6npte of the finest in Scotland. The grounds of the Hotel are laid out in walks and interspersed with ShVubs and flowers, and are quiet arid retired for families. There ave also beautiful Drives in the vicinity. The Dining Room has a large Fernery, with water fountain which plays daily during the summer, making it cool and refreshing during the hot weather.
Steamers call at the pier nearly every hour for the Highlands and all parts of .the coast. Tourists arriving at the Hotel the night before can have breakfast at Table d'Hdte at 9 a.m., and be in time to join the " Iona" at 10 a.m., for the North, calling at Innellan on her return at 4 p.m.	*
The Cuisine and Wines are of the finest quality. Large Billiard Ropm attached. Hot, Cold, and Spray Baths.
Horses and Carriages kept for Hire. Families Boarded by the Day or Week,
INVERARAY.
THE ARGYLL ARMS HOTEL,
"T71NTIRELY refurnished and under New Management, will be re-opened on 1st June 1882.
Charges strictly Moderate.
JOHN CLAEK, Froprietor.INVERNESS.
THE ROYAL HOTEL.
Opposite the entrance to the Railway Station.
J. S. Christie begs to solicit the attention of the travelling Public to this large well-known First-class Hotel, which has been greatly enlarged, and now comprehends, besides extensive First-class Bed-Room ficcomniodatioh, a SPACIOUS and LOFTY LADIES' and GENTLEMEN'S DINING SALOON, with handsome DRAWING-ROOM en suite, and several elegant and handsomely furnished SUITES of PRIVATE ROOMS ; also SMOKING-ROOM, HOT, COLD, and SHOWER BATH ROOMS, etc.
Though immediately opposite and within a few yarUs of the Railway Station entrance, the Hotel is entirely removed from the bustle, noise, and other disturbing influences^ which usually affect the comfort of Hotels situated in close proximity to the Railway.
Table d'Hote daily, and Dinners & la Carte.
The Porters of the Hotel await the arrival of all trains, and an Omnibus attends the Caledonian Canal Steamers. Posting.INVERNESS.
43
CALEDONIAN HOTEL
Two minutes' walk from the Railway Station.
THIS well-knowit first-class Family Hotel is patronised by the Royal Faifuly and lhost of the nobility ef Europe. The extensive additions are now completed, having added fifty rooms, with numerous suites, of. apartments for families, and all handsomely refurnished throughout,. Ii i? now the largest and best appointed Hotel in Inverness, and universally acknowledged one of the most comfortable in Scotland.
MAGNIFICENT LADIES' DRAWING-ROOM*
overlooking the river ness.
SFACIOTJS SMOKING & BILLIARD BOOMS.
In point of situation this hotel is the only one overlooking the River Ness, the magnificent view froW. the windows being unsurpassed, and extending to upwards of fifty miles of the surrounding strath and mountain scenery of the great glen of " Caledonia."
Table d'H6te daily at 5.30 and 7.30. Sunday, at 5 o'clock only.
An Omnibus attends aill the Canal Steamers.
The1 Hotel Porters' await the arrival of aill TrainS: Posting'.
ALEXANDER M'FARLANE, Proprietor.44
INVERNESS.
INVERNESS.
WAVERLEY HOTEL,
(Late Harcombe's.) Centrally Situated and Comfortably Furnished. FIRST CLASS FAMILY AMD COMMERCIAL HOTEL.
One minute's walk from the Railway Station.
TARIFF.
S.	D.
Breakfast (plain)	1	6
Dinners, from	2	6
Tea (plain)	1	6
Bedrooms, from	1	6
Table d'Hote	3	6
The Boots of the Hotel attend all Trains, and an Omnibus the Caledonian Canal Steamers.
TJnder New Management.	D. DAVIDSON, Proprietor.
WHEN YOU ARE IN ^Jb^S? Y0U SH0ULD INVERNESS, ^WSW^ SEE THE
GREAT JEWE1LERY ESTABLISHMENT
OF
P. Gr. WILSON,
44 HIGH STREET.
VISITORS are freely admitted to inspect the Shop and Manufactory, although they may not wish to purchase anything. The interior is about one hundred and twenty feet long, the front part of which is fitted up in the style of an Exhibition Room or Museum, thereby allowing the Visitor to walk round and see conveniently everything contained in the Shelves and Cases. The " Press " has described " the whole as forming one of the finest places of business in the Jewellery and Watchmaking trade in the kingdom." JEWELLERY,
PLATE,
WATCHES,
CLOCKS.
BRONZES,
OPTICAL GOODS,
&c„ &c.,
Of that superior quality which has won the fame of P. G. WILSON, the COURT GOLDSMITH and JEWELLER at INVERNESS, and extended his business connection to the Principal COURTS of EUROPE ; and he would desire to call attention to the fiict, that while his productions and Articles for Sale are of the best quality, his prices are not higher than thpse of minor establishments, his object being to secure a large amount of patronage, and at the same time the approval of his customers.
Orders by Post receive most careful attention.INVERNESS-ISLE OF WIGHT.	45
WHEN YOU AEE
IN
THE HIGHLANDS


ISLE OF WIGHT.
THE MARINE HOTEL,
PARADE, WEST COWES.
JAMES DROVER, PROPRIETOR.
PLEASANTLY SITUATED, FACING THE SEA..
The, comfort of Visitors studied in every way. NOB.—Board at low Rates during the Winter Months. SHANKXIN FOR SUNSHINE.
HINTOFS ROYAL SPA HOTEL,
Facing the Sea and under the Cliffs in the
ISLE OF W I G U T,
A sheltered and sequestered nook. Drawing-Room, Conservatory, Flowers and Birds. Table d'hote at 7. Separate Tables. 50 Bed and Sitting-IJooms. Billiards and Lawn Tennis free of charge, and constant Amusements for Families residing in thg Hotel.
From 3 Guineas a week in Winter. 3J Guineas	in Summer.
Pension46
jersey—eillarney.
JERSEY—STOPFORD HOTEL.
FT1HIS first-class Hotel, situated in the best part of St. Heliers, has for up-wards of forty years been successfully conducted under the name of
BREE'S BOARDING HOUSE.
It has recently been altered, enlarged, and improved, and is now the largest and best-appointed Hotel in St. Heliers.
The Dining Room can accommodate one hundred persons, and is lofty and well ventilated.
The Ladies' Drawing Room is unequalled by any in the Channel Islands. Coffee Room and Lavatory on the Ground Floor. The Cuisine is perfect, and the Wines excellent. Table dHote every day at Six p.m. PRIVATE SITTING ROOMS, IF REQUIRED. Carriages of every description at a moment's notice. Public and Private Pinners served in the best possible style. CHARGES MODERATE. For Tariff, etc., apply to	E. BREE, Proprietor.
KIULARNEY LAKES.
By Her Most Gracious Majesty's Special Permission.
THE ROYAL VICTORIA HOTEL
Patronised by H.R.H. THE PRINCE OF WALES ; by H.RH. PRINCE ARTHUR ; and by the Royal Families of France and Belgium, &c.
mais Hotel is situated on the Lower Lake, close to the;
water's edge, within ten minutes' drive of the Railway Station, and a short distance from the far-famed Gap of Dunloe.
TABLE D'HOTE DURING THE SEASON.
There is a Postal Telegraph Office in the Hotel. Hotel open throughout the year. Boarding terms from Oct. to June inclusive.
JOHN O'LEART, Proprietor.KILLABNE7-KILLIN-KILMUN.	47
KILLARNEY LAKE DISTRICT.
THE M U CKROSS HOTEL
(COMBINED with strictly moderate charges, contains all that is necessary to J promote the comfort and convenience of visitors. It is situated, in th@ mosj central and beautiful part of the Lake District,"and within fifteen minutes' Stive of'tlie Railway Station, at which the hotel "bus attends. Surrounded by pleasant walks, and drives, many objects of great interest and beauty,-thief-hotel will be found ft most desirable place to spend a few days or weeks.
Angling.—The proprietor has arranged for the use of visitors good Salmon Fishing. There is also good Sainton and Trout Fishing op the lakes, which are Free, and auglers can have boats from the proprietor without charge.
Tariff and other particulars on application. Please be particular to observe the 'bus you enter bears the name, THE MUCK-ROSS HOTEL._.__
LOCH TAY, PERTHSHIRE.
K I L L I N H OTE U
By Callander and Oban Railway, one of the grandest, lines in Scotland for Scenery.	" '
THIS Hotel is situated on the banks of the Lochay, at the. head of Loch Tay, amongst some of the finest scenery in Scotland, including Finlarig Castle, the. burial-place of the Breadalbane family, Inch Bui?, the burial-place of the old Clan M'Nab, and the Falls of Lochay, Auch-more House, Kiunell House, the romantic Glen Lyon, Glenlochay, Glen Dochart, Ben Lawers, and Ben More. Parties Boarded during May and June. Salmon fishing begins 5th Februaiy and ends 31st; May. Trout fishing Free. Coach runs between Killin, Eenmore, and Aberfejdy, to meet trains north and south from each end.
Posting Establishment complete. Parties staying at this Hotel can make the tour through the Trossachs and back by Loch Lomond and Glenfalloch in one day.
'Bus from Hotel meets North and South Trains.
ALEXANDER STUART, Proprietor.
KILMUN HOTEL.
HEAD OP HOLY LOCH, ARGYLLSHIRE.
(NEW TOURIST ROUTE.)
THIS Hotel has undergone thorough repair, and is under new Management.; the nearest and most direct landing plape fpr Loch Eck, Strachur, St. Catherine's, and Inveraray, for which Route Coaches arrive and depart from the Hotel daily. Posting in all its Branches.
N.B.—Special Terms for Parties Boarding.
Mrs. A. REID (Late of Balloch), Proprietrix.48
KINGSTOWN-LAKES (EKQLIBH).
KINGSTOWN.
ROYAL MARINE HOTEL,
KINGSTOWN.
FIRST CLASS FAMILY HOTEL.
Faces Dublin Bay and Kingstown Harbour.
Two minuteb from Royal Mail Packet Pier.
FOURTEEN MINUTES FROM DUBLIN BY RAIL. LUGGAGE PER MAIL SHOULD BE LABELLED "KINGSTOWN." KENDAL, WESTMORELAND.
KING'S.ARMS HOTEL
fj'HIS old-established and First-Class Family and Commercial Hotel—the oldest in the north—is most centrally situated for visiting Levens Hall and the romantic vale o£ Longsleddale, and twenty minutes by train to Windermere.
POSTING IN ALL ITS BBANCHES.
JAMES BELL, Propi-ietor. PENRITH.
CROWN HOTEL.
TfAMILY and Commercial Hotel, containing Ladies' Coffee Boom and Billiard Room.
Via. Penrith is the best route to the whole of the Lake District; Ullswater Lake, one of, if not the most beautiful and picturesque, being distant only six miles, to which a coach runs four tiijies daily during the season from this Hotel, meeting the Lake steamboat and trains. In the immediate vicinity of the town are Lowther Castle, the magnificent seat' of the Earl of Lonsdale ; Brougham Hall, the seat of Lord Brougham, &e.- &c.; and amongst other antiquities are Long Meg and her daughter, the extensive and fine ruins pf Brougham Castle, King Arthur's Round Table, &c.. &c. Hawes Water and Airey Force are also within easy distance.
Post HorBeB, Carriage, &c. An Omnibus meets, ever Train.
W. E. SIDDLE, Proprietor.LAKES (ENGLISH).	49
CONISHEAD PRIORY
HYDROPATHIC MANSION, NEAR ULVERSTON.
HOT, COLD AND TURKISH, SEA AND LAKE WATER BATHS. Summer Terms, Board and Baths, commencing 1st April, £3: 3s. per Week.
"The Scotsman" writes—" Conishead Priory, known far and wide as one of the finest of old English mansions, is now opened to the public as a Hydropathic Establishment. Visitors to the English Lake District will not fail to recaJl the architectural beauty and enviable situation of the building. The Establishment will be specially welcome to persons who may be in search of healthful relaxation, or of the beautiful in nature. The grounds are, on one side, washed by the waters of the sea, and the house is yet by its happy situation sheltered from the violence of the storm coming either from landwards or seawards. The attraction of the place is enhanced further by the fact, that the Priory is set down at a spot specially convenient for making the tour of the Lakes. The grounds in connection with the Priory extend to 150 acres, about sixteen of which are beautifully laid out in garden and shrubbery, and include excellent croquet and tennis lawns and a bowling-green."
The Guide-Books for the district refer to the Priory as " The Paradise of Pnrness."
Excursions can be made from the Priory, either by coach or rail, to any part of the English Lake District, returning in the course of the day; and Excursion Parties are arranged on extremely moderate terms.
Lawn Tennis, Croquet, Bowling, and the Scotch Game of Golf, dec.
PROSPECTUS BN APPLICATION TO "THE MANAGER," CONISHEAD PRIORY, NEAR ULVERSTOtl.
N.B.—The Priory Is recommended by high Medical Authority as a most desirable WINTER Residence. The Directors have completed a new and admirable system of Heating, which is guaranteed to maintain a Summer temperature in the House throughout the ooldeBt months of Winter.
D&0
LAKES (ENGLISH)-LEAMINGTON.
WINDERMERE.
CLOUDSDALE'S GROWN HOTEL
(Patronised by Royalty, and American Presidents.)
THE pre-eminence of the Crown is indicated by the fact that the Hotel has been made a Postal Telegraph Station by Government Authority.
As Head-quarters for Families and Tourists desirous of visiting the other Lakes and Mountain Scenery of this Picturesque District, the Crown, both by reason of its central situation and convenient access, is acknowledged to be unequalled.
It faces the Lake and Steam Yacht Piers.
The District Coaches run from the Crown for Ambleside, Grasmere, Keswick ; also for Ullswater and Coniston during the Season.
NINETY BEDS.
• Table d'R6te Daily at 6.30 p.m.
Omnibuses attend the arrival of Trains at Windermere Station, and Steamers at the Pier.
^flNDERMERE HYDROPATHIC
E S T A B L I S H M E N T.
'Overlooking "Quetn of English Lakes," with magnificent views of mountains and lake.
CHARMING House; elegantly appointed; every comfort and convenience; well ventilated; heated by hot water and open fireplaces. Good table and accomplished Chef; moderate terms. The Turkish Bath is perfect, with a constant current of hot oxygenised air passing rapidly through it. It can be enjoyed by persons unable to bear the ordinary Turkish baths. Russian, Electro-magnetic, Vapour, and all other baths. Fiue Billiard Room with two tables. Resident Physician; Omnibus meets all trains. For prospectus address Manager, Windermere.
LEAMINGTON.
THE REGENT HOTEL.
A FIRST-CLASS FAMILY AND HUNTING ESTABLISHMENT.
FLYS AND OMNIBUS
MEET ALL THE G. W. AND L. AND N. W. TRAINS.
POSTING, &c.
L. BISHOP, Proprietor.LIMERICK-LLANDUDNO.
51
LIMERICK.
THE GLENTWORTH HOTEL.
THIS neat Hotel has been prepared with great care and at considerable expense, for the accommodation of Ladies and Gentlemen visiting Limerick.
The,. Commercial Room (and Writing Room attached), the Ladies' Coffee Room, and the Gentlemen's Coffee Room, will stand comparison with any of1 the kind in Ireland.
The Glentworth claims the support of the general Public for the superiority of its accommodation in every Department, including Sitting Rooms, Bed Rooms, Bath Rooms (Hot and Cold; Water), &c. &c.
The Wines and Liquors have been selected with the greatest care.
The Glentwobth is the nearest Hotel in the city to the Railway Station, Banks, Steamboat Offices, Telegraph and Post Office, and to all public Places of Amusement.
fS* Omnibus attends the arrival of all Trains and Steamers.
Night Porter attends the Night Mail.
P. KENNA, Proprietor. 14, 15, & 16 GLENTWORTH STREET, LIMERICK.
LIMERICK.
CRUISE'S ROYAL HOTEL,
J. J. CLEARY, Proprietor..
THIS long-established and well-known FIRST-CLASS HOTEL is now conducted under
the sole superintendence of the Proprietor, and possesses everything requisite to promote the comfort and convenience of the Nobility, Gentry, and Tourists, and affords particular facilities to Commercial Gentlemen, having first-rate Show-Rooms, together with Moderate Charges.
Omnibuses attend all Trains, Steamers, &c. &c. &c. ; also a 'Bus attends the Night Mails for the convenience of Gentlemen coming by the late Trains.
N.B.—This is the PRINCIPAL HOTEL IN THE CITY, and is capable of accommodating over 150 persons, together with a splendid Suite of Drawing-Rooms.
HOT, COLD, AND SHOWER BATHS. CAUTION". —This is the only Hotel in the City called The Roval Hotel. Parties arriving by Mail Trains at night may rely on well-aired beds being had at this Hotel.
LLANDUDNO.
THE IMPERIAL FAMILY HOTEL.
(centre of bat.)
IN consequence of the Extensive Patronage which this Hotel has enjoyed since it was opened in 1872, it has been found necessary to add A New Wing.	Apartments bit suite.
ELEGANT BILLIARD SALOON FOR THREE TABLES.
An Omnibus attends all Trains. Excellent Stabling. Tariff on Application.
; JOHN CHANTREY, Proprietor.52
LLANBER1S-LLANGOLLEN-LOCHLOMOND.
LLANBERIS.
ROYAL VICTORIA HOTEL.
Under .New Proprietorship. rjlHIS Hotel is situated at the junction of the two lakes at the foot of Snowdon. Has large Coffee-Room, Ladies' Dra wing-Room, Smoking-Room, upwards of forty Bedrooms, and beautifully laid-out Grounds.
Four-Horse Coaches during the Season to Bcttws Coed, Beddgelert, Portmadoc, and Carnarvon.
POSTING IN ALL ITS BRANCHES.
PONIES AND GUIDES TO SNOWDON.
Boats on the Iiakes.
EDWARD HUMPHREYS, Proprietor, and of the Royal Hotel, Carnarvon.
LLANGOLLEN.
EDWARDS' HAND HOTEL.
THE "HAND,"
Unequalled for the Beauty of its Situation on the Banks of the Dee. Several Bed-Rooms and Sitting-Rooms have been added to the House to suit the requirements of Families visiting this delightful Neighbourhood.
BILLIARDS.
Omnibuses from this Hotel meet all Trains at Llangollen Station.
LOCHLOMOND.
BALLOCH HOTEL, FOOT OF LOCHLOMOND*
THE above flrst-class Hotel ia beautifully situated at the foot of the " Queen of Scottish
Lakes," and at an easy distance from the Railway Station. Visitors will have every comfort, combined with moderate charges. Parties purposing to proceed by first Steamer up Loclilomond would do well to arrive at the Hotel the previous evening.
Visitors staying at this Hotel have the privilege of going through the Grounds and Flower Gardens of Sir James Colquhoun, Bart., and Mr. Campbell of Tillychewan, and have permission to visit " Mount Misery," which commands 17 miles of the most beautiful portion of Lochlomond—23 islands being comprised in the view. Excellent Trout and Salmon Fishing. Posting in all its branches. Boats for the Lake.
Mrs. GEORGE M'DOUGALL, Proprietrlx.LOCH EARN HEAD-LOCHLOMOND.
63
LOCH EARN HEAD.
LOCH EARN HEAD HOTEL,
BALQUHIDDER, PERTHSHIRE
12 miles by rail from Callander.
(Under Royal Patronage. Twice visited by the Quern.)
rpHIS Hotel, which has been long established, has excellent accommodation for J- Families and Tourists, with every comfort and quiet, lies high and dry, and charmingly sheltered at the foot of the Wild Glen Ogle (the Kyber Pass). It commands fine views.of the surrounding Hills and Loch, the old Castle of Glenample, the scenery of the Legend of Montrose, in the neighbourhood of Ben Voirlich, Rob Roy's Grav?, Loch Voil, Loch Doine, and Loch Lubnaig, with many fine drives and walks. Posting and Carriages. Boats for Fishing and Rowing free. A 'Bus to and from the Hotel for the Trains during Summer. Coaches to and frtfm Crieff daily in Summer.
E. DAYTON.
The Callander and Oban Railway is now open. Parties breaking the journey here can proceed next morning with greater comfort.
LOCHLOMOND.
INVERSffAID HOTEL
fJ^HE landing place for Looh Katrine, The Trossachs, Aberfoyle, &c. This Hotel has been considerably enlarged.—The additions comprising Large Dining Rooms, several Bed Rooms, Drawing Room, Billiard Room, &c. AH newly furnished.
The scenery surrounding is unsurpassed.
Carriages can be had on hire, and there are also excellent boats and boatmen to be had for the use of Anglers or Excursionists on the Loch.
Arrangements can be made by Parties for Board by the Week or Month.
ROBERT BLAIR, Proprietor.54
lochlomond.
LOCH LOMOND.
TARBET HOTEL,
(OPPOSITE BEN-LOMOND) A. H. M'PHERSON, Proprietor,
IS the finest and most commodious Hotel on the Lake, and commands the best View of Ben-Lomond. Large additions, comprising Bed Rooms, Billiard Rooms, and Ladies' Drawing Room, have just been made to the Hotel.
Coaches direct for the far-famed Glencroe, Inveraray, and Oban, will commence running on 1st June.
Tourists em, route for Trossachs and Callander can,leave per 10.15 a. m. Steamer, next morning, in connection with the Steamer down Loch Katrine.
Small Boats on the Lake, and Guides to Ben-Lomond, to be had at the Hotel.
May 1882.
LOCH LOMOND, LUSS HOTEL.
ROBERT MTSTAJ3. Posting. Pleasure Boats. Fishing Free.
INCHTAVANACH and the STRONE BEAE command the most extensive, magnificent, and picturesque prospects of this, the far-famed
"QUEEN OF SCOTTISH LAKES."
LOCHLOMOND.
COLQUHOTJN ARMS HOTEL, ARDLUI.
Under New Management.
THIS Hotel is situated at the Head of Lochlomond. During the season, coaches in connection with the Lochlomond Steamers, and Callander and Oban Railway, start from this Hotel, where seats may be secured. Carriages for Hire. Fishing on River Falloch and Lochlomond free. Boats for Hire. Parties boarded by week or month. Moderate Charges:
J. BRODIE, Proprietor.LONDON.
55
LOND ON.
UPPER NORWOOD.
NEAR THE CRYSTAL PALACE.
THE QUEEN'S HOTEL.
f I ^HIS unique establishment stands unrivalled for thev exquisite picturesqueness and beauty of its situation ; its commanding and central position ; and the commodiousness -and completeness of its general arrangements. Delicate persone, to whom a light bracing air, charming scenery, close vicinity to the Crystal Palace and its amusements, and quiet seclusion, would be an invaluable boon, will find, in this establishment, their wishes fully realised-
"The Queen's Hotel, at Upper Norwood, is like a Private Royal Residence, managed with marvellous quietness, and is replete with all domestic comforts and appliances ; being a veritable home-for individuals as well as families. Lately there have been added some new rooms of magnificent proportions, suitable for balls, wedding breakfasts, • public dinners, &c. Ladies and gentlemen can make use of a most delightful coffee room for meals, overlooking the beautiful grounds. For gentlemen, there are billiard and smoking rooms, and also a private club. It deserves the special attention of the nobility and gentry, and their families, who may be seeking the means of restoration to health, both of mind and body, without going far from London."—From the Court Journal.
SPECIAL NOTICE OF WINTER ARRANGEMENTS AND TERMS AT THE ABOVE HOTEL
The Patrons of this establishment are respectfully informed that Tourists, Families, and others are received on most reasonable terms for the Winter months—which season has many enjoyments for Visitors at ihe Queen's Hotel, owing to its elevated, dry, and salubrious situation, and its convenient vicinity to the Crystal Palace and the Winter Garden, whilst it commands by Rail easy access to the West End, the City, &c.66
LONDON-LYNMO-OTH-LYNTON.
TURKEY, INDIAN, & PERSIAN CARPETS.
MANUFACTURED FOR AJSTD IMPORTED BY
WATSON, BO NT OR, & COMPANY,
CARPET MANUFACTURERS TO
HER MAJESTY THE QUEEN
AND
H.R.H. THE PRINCE OF WALES.
Superior Brussels, Velvet, Saxony, and all other Carpets in the Newest Designs.
Nos. 35 & 36 OLD BOND STREET, LONDON, W.
LYNMOUTH, NORTH DEVON. BEACH HOUSE PRIVATE HOTEL AND BOARDING HOUSE,
Pleasantly situate, close to the Sea Shore, with good accommodation for Families and Tourists.
A. L. JONES, Proprietress.
(Late of the Lyndale Hotel.)
LYNTON, NORTH DEVON. THE VALLEY OF ROCKS HOTEL.
THIS favourite and beautifully situate First-Class Hotel is built on one of the finest sites in the neighbourhood, and largely patronised by the best Families. It has been considerably enlarged, remodelled and improved, and combines, with moderate charges, all necessary means for the accommodation and comfort of Families and Tourists. THE SPLENDID TABLE D'HOTE AND COFFEE ROOM, READING ROOMS, LADIES' DRAWING ROOM, AND SEVERAL PRIVATE SITTING ROOMS, replete with every comfort, range in a long front overlooking the Sea, and looking into the extensive Private Grounds of the Hotel. It is most conveniently situate as a centre for visiting all the places of interest in the district.
Handsomely fitted Billiard Room, open during the Season, for Residents in the Hotel only. Post Horses and Carriages, also the very BeBt kind of Modern Stabling.
JOHN CROOK, Proprietor.LYNTON—MALVERN.
57
LYNTON, NORTH DEVON.
THE ROYAL CASTLE FAMILY HOTEL.
Patronised by H.R.H. the Prince of Wales and other Members of the Royal Family. The finest sea and land views in the world. fPHE above Hotel enjoys the most pleasant and commanding situation in the Neigh--*- bourhood, embracing in panoramic succession complete and uninterrupted views of the Bristol Channel, Welsh Coast, Tors, Valleys of the East and West Lynn, and the far-famed Valley of Rocks, etc. Being entirely surrounded by its own grounds (12 acres), ■and removed from the main road, visitors can at the same time enjoy the retirement and comforts of a private house, with the advantages and conveniences of a First-Class Hotel, recently and extensively enlarged to meet the requirements of modern society; it is also central, and within easy distance of all places of interest in the vicinity.
STRICT ATTENTION COMBINED WITH MODERATE CHARGES-Private Sitting Rooms, New, Elegant and Superior Table d'Hote, Coffee Room, Ladies' Drawing Room, etc. , all overlooking the sea. New and Excellent Stabling.
In connection with this Hotel, and in the same extensive grounds, is a PRIVATE HOTEL and BOARDING HOUSE, also replete with every comfort and convenience for families visiting this romantic neighbourhood.
Post Horses and Carriages of every description.
Coaches in the Season to Barnstaple, Hfracombe, and Minehead.
THOMAS BAKER, Proprietor.
GREAT MALVERN.
THE IMPERIAL.
^PHE attention of Foreign and Home Tourists seeking a salubrious and charming part of England is respectfully drawn to this Establishment, the largest and principal one in the district—comfortable, well appointed, specially adapted for Family Residence, and the charges strictly moderate.
/
The New and Elegant Swimming Bath—part of a complete system of Baths in course of erection—IS NO W' OPEN.
TERMS—FROM £3 : 3s. PER WEEK,
Including: Bedroom, Attendance, Meals, and use of Public Booms.
Special Arrangements made with Families intending to reside for some time. DROITWICH BRINE BATHS. The Droitwich Brine Bath, so efficacious cases of Gout, Rheumatism, and General Debility, is now administered in this Establishment exactly as at Droitwich.
Tariffs forwarded on Application.MALVERN-MATLOCK.
MALVERN.
THE FOLEY ARMS HOTEL
Is situate on the slope of the Hills in the highest part of the town, and from its bay-windows and Terrace the most beautiful views are obtained.
Miss FLIGHT, Manager.
EDWARD ARCHER, Proprietor.
GREAT MALVERN.
THE ABBEY HOTEL.
AN old established first-class Family Hotel, occupies one of the best positions in Malvern. Is thoroughly well warmed during the colder months of the year. Handsome suites of Apartments. Coffee-Room for Ladies and Gentlemen.
Letters addressed "Manager," ensure a reply by first post.
WILLIAM ARCHER, Proprietor.
MATLOCK BATH, DERBYSHIRE.
(O71 the Main Midland Line.)
TYACK'S (LATE IVATTS AND JORDAN)
NEW BATH HOTEL.
fPHIS first-class old-established Family House, acknowledged to be one of the most homely and comfortable Hotels in the kingdom, is beautifully situated on the highest and most open part of the valley, surrounded by its own extensive pleasure grounds, commanding the finest views of the grand and picturesque scenery for which Matlock Bath (the Switzerland of England) stands unrivalled. Matlock is the most central' place for day excursions to the most interesting parts of Derbyshire. A Public 'Bus to Haddon and Chatsworth daily.
A public Dining Room and Drawing Room. Private Sitting Rooms. Coffee, Smoking, and Billiard Rooms. A large natural tepid Swimming Bath, 68 degrees. Table d'H6te daily at 6.30 p.m. Excellent Stabling and Coach Houses. Posting, &c.
An Omnibus to and from each Train. BOOK FOR MATLOCK BATH, NOT TO MATLOCK BRIDGE.
LAWN TENNIS A?TD CROQUET. GOOD FISHING. Places of interest in the vicinity:—Buxton, Chatsworth, Haddon Hall, Castleton, Dovedale, Wingfield Manor, Hardwick Hall, &c.MANCHESTER-MANSFIELD,
59
MANCHESTER.
KNOWS LET HOTEL,
CHEETHAM HULL ROAD,
Only a few miniUes' walk from Victoria, Railway/Station, Will be found, by Travellers who appreciate Good arid Lofty Rooms,: p,nd enjoy the Quietude and Comfort which the noisy parts of the City canp,©t offer, a very acceptable houae.	;;
Omnibuses to all parts of the City pass the door every few minutes.
, J. B. BRENMEHL, LESSEE.
MANSFIELD.
S W A N HOTEL,
UNiBER the^niaiiagement of Miss WHitE, daughter of thelate Robert White, for 30 years proprietor. The best centre for visiting Sherwood Forest, The " Ditkeries," Welbeck, Thoresby, Clumber, Newstead, Hard wick, Bolsover, &c.	^
" The best plan is to get a carriage from the ' Swan ' at Mansfield."— Rambles among the Hills, by Louis J. Jennings.
An Omnibus meets all Trains.60
MELFORT-MELROSE.
MELFORT, NEAR OBAN.
CUILFAIL HOTEL.
ADVICE TO ANGLERS. When tired an forfouchen, When houstin' and coughin', When ill wi' the bile Or the wee deevils blue-Take yer rods an yer reels, Throw the doctor his peels, An come doon to Cuilfail Wi' yer friens leal and tree.
QOOD Trout-fishing on several firstrate lochs, several of which have been lately stockcd by the Hotel-keeper with the famous Loch Leven trout. The sport is excellent; Boats and steady Boatmen kept for the use of Anglers ; and good deep-sea fishing. Near hand is the famous Pass of Melfort. Gentlemen require to write beforehand, to secure rooms. Address—
JOHN M'FADYEN,
CUILFAIL HOTEL,
KILMELFORD,
ARGYLESHIRE, N.B.
Route :—Per Caledonian Railway to Oban, thence per Coach daily, or by Steamer to Ardrishaig, thence per Coach daily.
MELROSE.
THE ABBEY HOTEL, ABBEY GATE.
THIS is the only Hotel which is built on the Abbey Grounds, at the entrance to the far-famed ruins of Melrose Abbey. An extensive addition having been built to the Establishment, consisting of Private Sitting Rooms, Bedrooms, Billiard-Room, etc. etc., it is now the largest Hotel in Melrose, and only two minutes' walk from the Railway Station. First-class Horses and Carriages to Abbotsford and Dryburgh Abbey. An Omnibus attends all trains to convey Visitors' Luggage to and from the Hotel.	GEORGE HAMILTON, Proprietor.
MELROSE, CLEAVER'S KING'S ARMS HOTEL
Two Minutes? walk from Railway Station and Abbey.
^TOURISTS and Visitors coming to this Hotel are cautioned against taking -*- a cab at the Railway Station, and are requested either to take the King's Arms Omnibus (which attends all trains), or walk down to the Hotel, where Carriages of every description can be had for Abbotsford, Dryburgh, etc.MELROSE-MOFFAT.
61
MELROSE.
THE GEORGE AND ABBOTSFORD HOTEL
rpHIS Hotel is now enlarged and improved, having Ladies' Drawing-Room, Dining-Rooms, handsomely furnished Suite of 50 Bedrooms, Baths (Hot, Cold, and Shower), Billiard Room, and all the necessary appointments of 4 first-class Hotel, while the charges are the same as those of minor Hotels. Being two minutes' walk from the Railway Station, and the same from the Atfbey, the Hotel is the most convenient for Visitors to Melrose. The View from the Windows overlooking the Abbey is very fine. Well-appointed carriages, with careful drivers, selected from the large posting establishment of the Hotel, always ready for Visitors.
The Hotel Omnibus meets all Trains.
MOFFAT SPA.
ANN AND ALE ARMS HOTEL,
ROBERT NORRIS, Proprietor.
TOURISTS and Visitors to this famous watering-place will find at the Annandale Arms Hotel first-class accommodation, combined with Moderate Charges. Commercial Gentlemen will find every attention to their convenience and interests. Omnibuses meet the Trains at Beattock Station. A Summer Excursion Omnibus runs along the route—passing " Craigieburn Wood," Bodesbeck, Grey Mare's Tail, to St. Mary's Loch, every Tuesday, Thursday, and Saturday, in connection with a Coach from Selkirk. [Omnibuses ply to the Well every morning. Carriages of all kinds. Job and Post I Horses on Hire.62
MONMOUTH-OBAN.
MONMOUTH. VALLEY OF THE WYE!
THE KING'S HEAD HOTEL
AND POSTING HOUSE.
THIS old-established Hotel, situate in Agincourt Square, the centre of the town, is replete with eviery accommodation for Families and Tourists, at Moderate Charges.
A SPACIOUS LADIES' COFFEE ROOM,
AND A SUPERIOR BILLIARD ROOM.
An-Omnibus meets every Train.
JOHN THOMAS, Proprietor.
OBAN—CEAIG-ARD HOTEL—r. maclaurin, Proprietor.
rrOURISTS and Strangers visiting the West Highlands will find that, whether as re-J- _ gards Situation, Comfort, or Accommodation, combined with Moderate Charges, this elegant Hotel, built expressly for summer Visitors, cannot be surpassed, while it commands an extensive view of the beautiful Bay of Oban and other romantic scenery in the neighbourhood. The Hotel is situated on an elevated plateau near the Steamboat Wharf, to which a new and convenient approach has been lately added. The Wines and Cuisine are of the first quality. French and German spoken. Table d'Hdte daily. Apartments may be engaged by the week at a reduced scale.oban-oxford.	63
GREAT WESTERN HOTEL,
BEAUTIFULLY SITUATED. FIRST CLASS.
THIS Hotel, well known as the first in the Highlands, is now ready for the season. An Elegant New Dining Hall has been added, capable of accommodating 200 Persons.
EOT, GOLD, & SHOWER, METALLO-OERAMIC (TILE) BATES. BILLIARD AND SMOKING ROOMS.
An Omnibus attends the Arrival and Departure of Trains and Steamers. Visitors conveyed to and from the Hotel free of charge.
OBAN.
KING'S ARMS HOTEL,
On the Promenade and almost opposite the Station. A first-class Family and Commercial Establishment. Conveniently situated within two minutes' walk of Steamboat Pier. POST OFFICE, BANKS, AND COACH OFFICES. PARTIES BOARDED ON MODERATE TERMS.
ALEX. MTAVISH, Proprietor.
(Many years with the late Mr. Blair, Trossachs Eotd.)
OXFORD.
RANDOLPH HOTEL,
IN THE CENTRE OF THE CITY.
fJ^HE only modern built Hotel in Oxford, close to the Colleges and Public Buildings, and commanding a fine open view down Beaumont Street, St Giles's Street, and Magdalen Street, opposite The Martyrs' Memorial.
Handsome Suites of Apartments. Ladies' Coffee Room, Billiard Rooms, and every modern comfort and convenience. Excellent wines imported direct from abroad.
CHARGES MODERATE.
GOOD STABLING AND LOOSE BOXES.
Visitors at this Hotel will meet with every attention and consideration.
Miss I'ANSON, Manageress.64
OXFORD (PEEBLES, See p. 6G)-PENZANCE.
OXFORD.
THE CLARENDON HOTEL.
PATRONISED by H.R.H. the Prince of "Wales, H.R.H. Prince Leopold, Tlieir Imperial Mnjesties The Emperor and Empress of Brazil, The Princess Frederick Charles of Prussia, and Prince Louis Lucien Bonaparte.
Sitilate In the most central part of the city, near the principal Colleges and places of interest to visitors. Families and Gentlemen will find the Hotel replete with every comfort.	SPACIOUS COFFEE AND BILLIARD ROOMS.
Private Sitting and Bed Rooms (en suite). Ladies' Coffee Room. G-uidea always in Attendance. Fashionable/Open and Close Carriages. Job and Post Horses. Good Stabling and commodious Coach Houses. __JOHN F. ATTWOOD, Proprietor.
PENZANCE QUEEN'S HOTEL.
THIS magnificent Hotel has a frontage of over 170 feet, all the rooms of which overlook the sea. Penzance stands unrivalled for the variety and quiet beauty of its scenery, whilst the mildness of its climate is admirably adapted to invalids. Apartments en suite. Ladies' Drawing and Coffee Rooms, Billiard-Room, Hot and Cold Baths.
An Omnibus meets every Train. Posting in all its Branches. Table d'Hote.
ALEX. H. HORA, Proprietor.penzance—peeth {see also p. 67).
65
PENZANCE.
UNION HOTEL.
CENTRALLY SITUATED.
During the season a Four-Horse Brake leaves the Hotel daily for Land's End, Logan Rock, etc., at 9 A.M. (Sundays excepted).
Omnibuses to the Lizard pass the Hotel daily (Sundays excepted).
Board by Arrangement.
The Hotel Omnibus meets all Trains.
PENZANCE.
MOUNT'S BAY HOUSE.
% {On the Esplai(iad&.) 'erected and fitted up expressly as a seaside family hotel.
No expense or labour has been spared_by' the Proprietor. The house is furnished in the most modern style, is well supplied with Hot and Cold Baths, and replete with every accommodation suitable for. Tourists to West Cornwall. All the Drawing Rooms command an uninterrupted and unsurpassed view of that " beauteous gem set in the silver sea," St. Michael's Mount, and the whole of the magnificent bay. During the winter Invalids will find in Mount's Bay House the comforts of a home, while the beauty and salubrity of the situation, and its nearness to the charming walks on the sea-shore, render it a healthy and delightful residence. Suites of Apartments for families of distinction. Choice Wines and Ales. Post Horses and Carriages. Charges moderate.
Mrs. E. LAVIN. Prnvrl^rr^.
PERTH.
SALUTATION HOTEL.
THIS old established and well-known Hotel, after being thoroughly Renovated and Re-furnished, has been re-opened under new and efficient management. Several important alterations and improvements have been made, and a Spacious NEW LUNCHEON BAR added. Commercial Gentlemen and Tourists will find every comfort and attention, combined with strictly moderate charges.	_
BILLIARDS-BUS AWAITS THE ARRIVAL OF ALL TRAINS-BILLIARDS.
W. CARGILL, Proprietor.66	PEEBLES.
Board, Medical Advice, Baths, and Good Society at the
PEEBLES HYDROPATHIC ESTABLISHMENT
AND SANATORIUM,
Twenty-seven Miles by Rail from Edinburgh.
/^HARMING situation, with fine southern exposure. Extensive Grounds ; dry gravelly soil. Fine Walks and Drives along Tweedside. Turkish and other Baths most complete, including only Russian Bath in Scotland. Public Rooms and Bedrooms unrivalled. Cheerful Society. Recreation and Amusement. Lawn Tennis and Croquet Greens, with ample provision for thorough Treatment of Invalids. Excellent Home for Parties giving up Housekeeping, or for Officers and others returning from India, China, etc. Prospectuses Forwarded.
Terms, from £2:12:6 per Week.
Specia} Rates for Board for Long Periods. The Company's Omnibus awaits the Trains.
Dr. MACGREGOR, Physician-Superintendent.pbrth (see also p. 65)—Plymouth.
67
PERTH.
POPLE'S ROYAL BRITISH HOTEL
(Opposite the General Station).
Patronised by their Royal Highnesses the Prince and Princess of Wales, Prince and Princess Christian, Duke of ConnaugM, and other Members of the Royal Family, and the leading Nobility of the Kingdom. fTTHIS Family Hotel has long stood pre-eminent; and the Proprietor -L would remark that the same care and unremitting attention, which are universally acknowledged by all who have patronised him, it will be his constant study to continue.
PERTH. HENKY'S QUEEN'S HOTEL
Opposite the General Railway Station,
THAT IS THE HOUSE TO GO TO.
PERTH.
THE ROYAL GEORGE HOTEL.
BY SPECIAL APPOINTMENT. T71AMILIES, Tourists, Commercial Gentlemen, and Visitors, will find the Hotel replete with every Comfort. The situation is the best in the Town, and Omnibuses run to suit all Trains. VERY MODERATE CHARGES.
JOHN KENNEDY, Proprietor.
PLYMOUTH.
GRAND HOTEL
(ON THE HOE.) THE ONLY HOTEL WITH SEA VIEW.
Facing Sound, Breakwater, Eddystone. MAIL STEAMERS ANCHOR IN SIGHT.
Pviblic Rooms and Sitting Rooms, with Balconies.
JAMES BOHN, Proprietor.68
PITLOCHRIE.
PITLOCHRIE.
FIRST-CLASS FAMILY HOTEL
AND
POSTING ESTABLISHMENT.
T> ARTIES wishing to see the magnificent' Scenery in this part of the Scottish Highlands will find this Hotel (to which large additions have been made) most convenient, for in One Drive they can visit the
Palls of Tummel, the Queen's View of Loch Tummel; The Far-Famed Pass of KiUiecrankie; Glen Tilt; The Falls of Bruar, &c.
Pitloohrie is on the direct route to Balmoral Castle, by Spittal of Glen-shee and Braemar; and to Taymouth Castle arid Kinloch-Rarinoch, by Tummel-Bridge.
Salmon and Trout Fishing on the Rivers Tummel and Garry, and on the Lochs in the neighbourhood.
Job and Post Horses and Carriages of every kind, By the, Day, Week, or Month.
ORDERS BY TELEGRAPH, FOB BOOMS OB OARRIAGES, PUNCTUALLY ATTENDED TO.PITLOCHRY.	69
PITLOCHRY, PERTHSHIRE.
THE ATHOLE HYDROPATHIC ESTABLISHMENT
expense has been spared to render this magnificent Establishment complete in all its arrangements. The locality is as widely known for the health-giving qualities of its climate as for the grandeur of its Strath- and mountain scenery.
The House occupies a commanding position on the sunny side of Strath TummeL The Public Booms are large and richly furnished. The Turkish and other Baths are constructed on the most scientific principles, and for elegance and comfort are not surpassed by any in the country.
The Grounds, extending to 36 acres, abound in natural and artistic beauties, and contain Bowling, Croquet, and Lawn Tennis Greens, Curling Ponds, etc.
The Walks and Drives in the neighbourhood are numerous and inviting. The places of interest within walking or driving distance are—The Pass of Killiecrankie; Lochs Tummel, Tay, and Rannoch; The Falls of Bruar, Tummel, and Moness ; Glen Tilt, Blair and TaymoutS Castlea; Dunkeld, Bimam Hill Rumbling Bridge, The Birks of Aberfeldy, Black Spout, etc.
Excursion Coaches start daily from the Establishment for some of the above places.
A special Telegraph wire connects with the House. Commodious Stable and Coach-house accommodation for Private Carriages.
wrr.T.mr s. IBVTN3S, M.P.,|Q>H»ultiiis Physician. Prospectuses forwarded on application to ALEX. S." GRANT,
at the Establishment.70
PLYMOUTH.
The Royal Hotel, Plymouth.
S. PEARSE, Proprietor.Plymouth (see also p. 67).	71
DUKE OF CORNWALL HOTEL,
(Opposite the Railway Station).
PLYI OIJTH, DEVON.
POSTAL TELEGRAPH OFFICE. ORIENT STEAM NAVIGATION CO. (LIMITED) OFFICE.
FIRST-GLASS FAMILY HOTEL
CONTAINING
A HANDSOME GENERAL COFFEE-ROOM. LADIES' DRAWING-ROOM. SMOKING AND READING ROOMS. LARGE BILLIARD-ROOM (Two Tables). SUITES OF APARTMENTS. HOT? AND COLD BATHS.
T ABL E D'HOTE DAILY.
Address to the Manager.72
portree-preston-ripon—rothesay.
PORTREE HOTEL.
DONALD M'INNES,_ Proprietor.
THIS well-known and first-class Hotel is now under the experienced management of Mr. M'INNES, who will be in constant attendance to look after the comfort of his patrons. The House is of modern construction,and admirably adapted for the purposes of a first-class Family and Commercial Hotel. The accommodation is superior and most ample, consisting of about sixty Apartments, including elegant Sitting-Rooms, nice airy Bedrooms, commodious Coffee and Smoking-Rooms, well-lighted Bath-Rooms, &c.
The TARIFF has been drawn up on the most moderate scale. Special terms made with Parties staying a week or longer.
First-Class carriages always on hire, and well-appointed Conveyances leave daily for Coruisk, Quiraing, and other Places of Interest in Skye.
Post and Telegraph Offices Next Door.
PRESTON, LANCASHIRE. Half-way between London and Edinburgh, and London and Glasgow.
VICTORIA & STATION HOTEL,
Close to the Railway Station. Established 45 Years. Night Porter. Charges Reasonable.
GOOD STABLING AND COACH-HOUSES.
Miss BILLINGTON, Proprietress
RIPON, FOUNTAINS ABBEY.
UNICORN HOTEL AND POSTING HOUSE.
Patronised by H.R.H. PRINCE of WALES.
ONE of the Oldest Established Hotels in the North of England,, and the principal in Ripon. To meet requirements it has been lately much enlarged and improved.
Orders by Post punctually attended to.
R. E. COLLINSON, Wine and Spirit Merchant, Proprietor.
ROTHESAY,. ISLE OF BUTE. {Opposite the Pier J)
THE BUTE ARMS HOTEL
FIRST-CLASfc BILLIARD ROOM.
/.-.jOfeAELES WILSON, Proprietor.ROTHESAY.
73
PHILFS
GLENBURN HYDROPATHIC ESTABLISHMENT,
EOTHESAY, BUTE.
Beautifully situated, overlooking
the charming Bay of Rothesay, bounded by the Kyles of Bute and the lofty mountains of Argyle—possesses probably the greatest attractions of any similar establishment in Scotland. Large Recreation Hall, Smoking and Billiard Rooms, recently erected. The Baths — including Salt and Fresh Water, and every modern appliance—are certainly unsurpassed for comfort and elegance.
Resident Physician—Dr. PHILP (formerly of Conishead Priory).
Terms, from £2:12 :6 or 8s. 6d. for Single Day.
Apply MANAGER, or
Philp's Cockbtirn Hotels, Edinburgh or Glasgow.
ROTHESAY.
QUEEN'S HOTEL.
WEST BAY.
ESTABLISHED OVER ^TWENTY YEARS.
t» Five minutes walk from the Quay. On the Esplanade.
WILLIAM M. WHYTE begs to announce that the extensive alterations.and additions to this Old-Established and First-Class Hotel are complete, comprising a magnificent Dining Saloon (one of the finest in Scotland), Ladies' Drawing Room, elegant Sitting Rooms, Smoking and Billiard Rooms, Bath Rooms, and ovfer Forty Bed Rooms —all famished in the most modern style.	table d'hote at 8.8o.
Beautiful G-ardens and Pleasure Grounds. Letters and Telegrams punctually attended to._Parties boarded by the week or month.
ROTHESAY.
VICTORIA HOTEL.
JOHN L. KELLY, Proprietor.
THIS well-known Establishment affords superior accommodation for Families, Tourists, and Commferciaf Gentlemen, at moderate charges. Two minutes' wait froln the ^Pier.; The Esplxehade- andMusic&l Band Stand are immediately in front of the Hotel. Two first-cla^s Burrough.es' afcd Watts' Billiard Tables. YXVJ- i Attendance charged in the bill.74
salisb dry-scarborough.
SALISBURY.

THE WHITE HART HOTEL.
A N old-established and well-known first-class Family Hotel, nearly opposite Salisbury Cathedral, and within a pleasant drive of Stonehenge. This Hotel is acknowledged to be one of the most comfortable in England.
A Ladies' Coffee Room, a Coffee Room for Gentlemen, and first-class Billiard and Smoking Rooms.
Posting-Masters to Her Majesty. Carriages and Horses of every description.
Tariff on application to H. T. BOWES, Manager.
SCARBOROUGH.
THE ALEXANDRA HOTEL.
ESTABLISHED 1864.
A FIRST-CLASS HOTEL—Detached—On the Cliff, with unrivalled Sea Views, and commanding most extensive and picturesque views of the surrounding country. Elegant Suites of Private Apartments replete with every family comfort. The Cuisine superior, and the Wines carefully selected.
FULL TERMS-
Board and Attendance in Public Room, 10s. per day.
Beds charged if for less than four days. Private Apartments from two to seven guineas per week. Board and Attendance from 10s. 6d. to 15s. per day, or & la
Carte. Servants' Board, 5s. per day. Reduced, Tariff to the end of the first week in August. Board and Attendance per week, £2 :12 : 6.
S. E. PAVEY.8CILLY—STIRLING.	75
ISLES OF SCILLY.
HUGH HOUSE HOTEL,
ST. MARY'S.
THIS First-Class Hotel is the largest and most modern on the Islands, and from its elevated position commands charming views of both sea and land.
Excellent Coffee and Smoke Rooms. Good Boating and Fishing. Table d'Hote at Six o'clock.	Terms Moderate.
Mrs. BEN HOLGATE, Proprietress.
STIRLING.
GOLDEN LION HOTEL.
STUART, .late CAMPBELL.
HP HIS Oldest Established and First-Class Hotel is con-veniently situated near the Railway Station and Castle. It has been newly renovated and improved, and affords comfortable accommodation to Tourists and Families visiting the Beautiful and Historical Scenery in the vicinity.
Conveyances await the arrival of all Trains and Steamers.
Post Horses and Carriages of every description.
ROBERT STUART, Proprietor.
May 1882.
STIRLING.
ROYAL HOTEL.
THIS Old-established First-Class Hotel is conveniently situated for
Families, Tourists, and Commercial Gentlemen, being within three minutes' walk of the Railway Station, and is patronised by their Royal Highnesses the Prince and Princess of Wales, and other members of the Royal Family. Omnibus awaits all Trains.
A. CAMPBELL, Proprietor.76	STfUTHPEFFER: SPA.
THE BEN WYVI$ HOTEL,
STRATHPEFFER SPA, ROS&SHIRE, N.B.
THE HARROGATE OF SCOTLAND.
yiSITORS to this popular Watering Place will find this Hotel replete with every comfort combined with charges strictly moderate. It stands within its own grounds, which comprise Bowling,-Croquet, aj»d,liawn Tenais Gre- ns, is surrounded with grand scenery, and command^ a Splendid View of Ben Wyvis, the asoebt qf which .can be accomplished from the Hotel in tffew iottrs.	•'
The Ben "Wyvis Hotel which contains Public*and Private Apartments en suite, Billiard Room, &c., is within two minutes' walk Of'the Minftral Wells and Baths, and of Pbflt and Telegraph OfflceB.
Thie Hotelis within a mile of the Strathpeffer Station on the Dingwall and Skye Railway, and is a convenient point from which toviBit Skye, Loch Maree, Dunrobin, &c. &c.
Orders for Apaxtmentg .apd Carnages punctually attended to, APPLY TO THE MANAGER. ' N.B.—POSTING CONDUCTED IN ALL ITS BRANCHES.STRATHBEFFER.
77.
J^TMTIPEPJ'E® SPA
IN THE
HIGHLANDS OF EOSS-SHIRE.
(The property of the Duchess of Sutherland, Countess of Cromartie.)
STRATHPEFFER, the Harrogate of Scotland, increasing yearly in popularity, combines "with the strongest sulphur waters in Europe, and a mild chalybeate spring, the unique attraction of a Highland Health Resort, ozone from heatjier and pine mingling "with the pure mountain,air. The Spa is an excellent centre for some of the best excursions in the Highlands.
Professor the late Sir Robert Christison of Edinburgh describes the strong well as a pure sulphurous water, and the strongest in Britain. Dr. Murray Thompson of Edinburgh certified that the Strathpeffer waters deserve a much wider celebrity than they have hitherto enjoyed ; that they are invaluable as a curative agent fbr chronic diseases of the skin, for rheumatism and gout; and that they act fully on the liver and kidneys, and have their value in many constitutional affections. Dr. Medlock of London writes, " These waters possess several valuable properties which do not belong to any other known sulphur spring. " See Dr. Manson's Guide.
The Spa is in the hands of the Proprietrixr-and is placed under the charge of a Manager. There is a resident medical practitioner who has made the waters a special study. The Bath Establishment has recently been enlarged, and contains kU'the most approved baths and other appliances.
There are three ^ood-class hotels in the place, and one first-class, the Ben Wyvis, from which splendid views of mountain and valley are obtained. -
The splendid new Pavilion with Tennis-lawn' and grounds provides spacious accommodation for concerts, balls, and other recreations.
Address "THE MANAGER."
The Spa is close to Post and Telegraph Offices, and within a mile of a Railway Station.
STJRATHPEFFER.
SPA HOTEL,
MRS. EDWARDS begs to intimate that this Old Established Family Hotel is now open for the Season, where parties can depend on every comfort, combined with moderate charges. The Hotel is beautifully situated, and commands some of the finest views in Stuathpeffer.
A conveyance leaves the Hotel three times daily to convey parties to.and from the Wells free of Charge.
1	Posting in all itB Branches.7 8	STRATHPEFFER-TABBERT-TAYNUILT-TENBY
STRATHPEFFER HOTEL
STRATHPEFFER.
In close proximity to the, far-famed Mineral Well. ACCOMMODATION GOOD. CHARGES STRICTLY MODERATE.
D. FRASER, Lessee.
TARBERT HOTEL.
SALMON. (ISLE OF HARRIS, HEBRIDES). SEA TROUT.
"DART1ES staying at above Hotel will find every comfort combined -with moderate charges. The Trout Fishing is excellent, and boats are supplied free for Sea Fishing, which is unsurpassed in Scotland. The shootings of Scalpay, consisting of Grouse, Wild Bird, Rabbit, and Seal, also the Fishings attached, now belong to above Hotel. The Scenery is varied and extensive, comprising St. Kilda, the long^Island, and all the West Coast from Cape Wrath to Skye; while Railing Excursions can be had around the Islands. The climate is very healthy and suitable for Invalids. The Glasgow Steamer, " Dunora Castle," calls weekly, the "Claymore" fortnightly, and Tourists may also post from and to Stornoway, distance 36 miles. Yachts supplied with Stores. Tourists can be met or sent to Dunvegan and Gairloeh by Hotel Boats.
ROBERT HORNSBY (late of Loch Maree Hotel), Proprietor.
TAYNUILT.
TAYNUILT HOTEL.
THIS Hotel is situated near Loch Etive, within two minutes' walk from the Taynuilt Station on the Callander and Oban Railway. Visitors have the privilege of Salmon and Trout Fishing on the River Awe.
JAMES MURRAY, Proprietor. Post Horses, Carriages, &c.
TENBY.
ROYAL GATE HOUSE HOTEL,
COMMANDING A DELIGHTFUL VIEW OF THE BAY.
(FAMILIES AND GENTLEMEN.)
JOSEPH GREGORY, Proprietor.TINTAGEL-TROSSACHS.
79
TINTAGEL. NORTH CORNWALL.
PET'S PRIVATE HOTEL.
THIS Hotel is situated near the celebrated King Arthur's Castle Trebarwith Sands, Rocky Valley, St. Knighton's Kieve, and the finest and most romantic cliff scenery in Cornwall.
Families and Tourists will find every accommodation and Home comforts, combined with moderate charges.
Spacious Coffee Room. Table d'Rote.
FOR TERMS APPLY,
JAMES FRY, Proprietor.
Posting in all its Branches,

THE TROSSACHS HOTEL,
LOCH KATRINE.
A. BLAIR, Proprietor.80
TROSSACHS-WELSHPOOL-!— YORK.
TROSSACHS.
STRONACHLACHAR HOTEL,
HEAD OF LOCH KATRINE.
DONALD FERGUSON begs to intimate that he has lately completed .extensive alterations and additions to his Hotel, and that.it will be his constant endeavour; as heretofore, to secure every comfort and attention to Tourists and others favouring him with their patronage.
It is the best Fishing Station, and Boats with experienced Boatmen always in readiness. During the season Coaches run to and from Inversnaid, in connection with Steamers on Loch Katrine and Loch Lomond. '
Carriages and other Conveyances kept for Hire. stronachlachar, 1882._,__
WELSHPOOL.
ROYAL OAK HOTEL.
Established 200 Tears.
THIS old Family Commercial and Posting House is now in complete order, redecorated for the comfort of Visitors. Powis Castle Park is close to the town, and is open to the Public.
Magnificent Stables newly Erected. Post Horses, Breaks, Private Omnibuses, and Carriages. BILLIARDS. Omnibus meets all Trains. _WILLIAM ROWLAND, Proprietor.
Y 0 E K.
HARKER'S YORK HOTEL,
ST. HELEN'S SQUARE.
THIS long-established First-Class Hotel occupies the best Situation in the City, being nearest to the Minster and the Ruins of St Mary's Abbey ; is free from all noise of Trains, and surrounded by the patent wooden pavement. p MATTHEWS, Proprietor,
Also of the North-Eastern Family Hotel.
YOKEL
MATTHEWS' NORTH-EASTERN FAMILY HOTEL.
(Late ABBOTT'S.)
CONTAINS every appointment of a Modern First-Class Hotel for families and gentlemen. Situated within three minutes' walk of New Railway Station, and free from the noise of trains.
The Hotel Porters meet all trains day and night to convey visitors' luggage, and will be found under the Portico at the entrance to the station.
P. MATTHEWS, Proprietor,
Also of Harker's York Hotel.hydropathic establishment, malvern-railways. £1
HYDROTHERAPY.
DR. RAYNER'S ESTABLISHMENT,
GREAT MALVERN.
For the scientific application of warm and cold water treatment, and for Persons requiring rest and change.
For Prospectus apply to
T. RAYNER, M.D.,
The Establishment,
Great Malvern.
In One Volume, Crown 8vo.
THE LADY OF THE LAKE.
author's edition".
Printed on superfine paper, and profusely Illustrated by Foster and Gilbert, with eleven Photographs of the Trossachs district. Price 12s. 6d. in cbth gilt; 25 s. Morocco ; or Sis. 6d. in Clan Tartan. _Edinburgh; ADAM & CHARLES BLACK._
LONDON & SOUTH-WESTERN RAILWAY,
WATERLOO STATION, LONDON. The Shortest and Quickest Route to the South-West and West of England, EXETER, BARNSTAPLE, BIDEFORD (" Westward Ho !") ILFRACOMBE, NORTH and SOUTH DEVON, BUDE vid Holsworthy, TAVISTOCK, LAUNCESTON, PLYMOUTH, WEYMOUTH, BOURNEMOUTH, SOUTHAMPTON, PORTSMOUTH, STOEJIS BAY, and ISLE OF WIGHT. The only throughout Railway to Ilfracombe.
Fast Expresses at Ordinary Fares, and Frequent Trains.
Cheap Tourist and Excursion Tickets.
Through Tickets in connection with the London and Northwestern, Great Northern, and Midland Railways.
Regular Mail Steam-Ships, vid Southampton, to and from the CHANNEL ISLANDS, JERSEY and GUERNSEY. Also Fast Steam-Ships for Havre, Rouen, and Paris, St. Malo, Cherbourg, Granville, and Honfleur.
F82-
RAILWAYB.
LONDON & NORTH-WESTERN AND GALEOONIAN RAILWAYS
WfiST COAST ROYAL MAIL ROUTE
BETWEEN
ENGLAND AND SCOTLAND.
1st, 2d, and 3d €LASS TOUBIST TICKETS,
Available from the date of issue, up to and including the 31st December 1882, are (during the Season commencing 1st May) issued from all Principal Stations in England to the chief places of interest in Scotland, and also from the same places in Scotland to English Stations.
Passengers by the Through. Trains between London (Euston Station) and Scotland are conveyed in THROUGH CARRIAGES
of the most improved description, and constructed specially for the accommodation of this Traffic.
Saloons, Family Carriages, Reserved Compartments, and all other conveniences necessary to ensure comfort on the journey, can be arranged upon application to Mr. G. P. Neele, Superintendent of the L. and N. - W. wne^.Euston Statfon, London ; Mr. Irvine Kempt, Caledonian Railway, .or to any of the Stationmasters at the Stations on the "West Coast Route.
The Passenger Fa/resmid Horse, Damage, and Dog Rales between Lqn^on and.ficattymd, have\ been revised and reduced.
By the, opening of the Une off Railway from CALLANDER to OBAN direct Railway communication is now afforded by the -West Coast Route 40-tibch Awe, Taynuilt, and Oban. Steamers sail in connection to and from Jdna,. Staffa, and. the Western IslandB.
TABLE OF EXPRESS TRAINS BETWEEN LONDON AND SCOTLAND. DOWN JOURNEY.
Stations.	Week Days.					Sundays.	
	morn.	morn. Iinorn.	morn.	night.; night.		night.	night.
London fEustop) . dep.	5.15	7.15 :10.0	11.0	8.50	9.0	S.50	9.0
Edinburgh (Princes St; Stn.) arr.	4.30	5.50 j 8.0	9.45	6.45	7.50	6.45	7.50
Glasgow (Central Station) „	4.44	6.0 : 8.0	10.0	6.55	8.0	6.55	S.O
Greenock. ,,	5.50	7.15 j 9.5	11.42	*7.50	*9'40	7.50	9.48
Stirling ,.	5.39	! 8.24	10.27	7.21	*8.43	7.21	8.43
'Oban	10.0		4.35	*12.55		12.65	
Perth	■'6.50	i 0.'25	11.40	8.15	i *9.*55	. 8,15	rf.55
Aberdeen. „	10. 10		3.20	11.40	*2.15	11.40	2.15
"InYBErtea^.....,, .			8.0	1.30	*6.25	•1:30	: 6.25
No connection from, London to Places marked thus (*) on Saturday Nights.RAILWAYS.
83
'-*> -p f I	r"					T O			
	JH						r-		
TnWe'itess dep. Aberdeen . „ Perth Oban . „ Stirling, „. GreenOck'" . ,, Glasgow (Central Stn.) ,, Edinburgh (Princes St. stn.) „ London (Euston) arr. ■ A 1.		aft. lo.t> morn. 8.30 9,30 9:o 10.0 10.0 8.0 m	morn, 10.4 10.35 10.35 night,	moiji. 8.55 floOn. 12:0 • 6.0 -1.5 1.10 2.15 2.25 4.30 night,	mgmi 9.25 '1.55 3.24 3.0 4.30 •4.30 5.30 morn.	morn. 10.10 12.30 4.4 12.15 5.3 5.0 ' 6.0 6.10 4.5 mom.	~m 4.40 V.30 4.0 8.30. 8.10 9.15 9.25 *8.0 morn;	to°S 12.30 '4.4 6.3 ,6.0 6.10 4.5 morn.	9.15 9.25 t8.15 morp.
* From Scotland daily, except'Sunday.					t From Scotland on Sunday."				
THE LIMITED MAIL TRAINS
Travel by this route, and are in connection with the Mail Coaches to the Outlying Districts of the Highlands. These Trains have been accelerated between London and Edinburgh, Glasgow and Perth ; and additional accommodation and increased facilities are now afforded to passengers travelling by them.
DAY SALOONS, 'WITH LAVATORY ACCOMMODATION ATTACHED, Are run between. London and Edinburgh and Glasgow, leaving Euston Station by 10.0 a.jn. Down Express, and returning from Edinburgh and Glasgow by 10 0 aim. Up Express on Week Days. NO EXTRA CHARGE if made for Passengers travelling in these Saloons, and 'Compartments are specially reserved for Ladies and Family Parties.
. .	Provided with Pillows, Rqgs, and
• SLEEPING SALOONS, Lavatory Accommodation, and
' Lighted with Gas. Between London and Perth-and Glasgow, and Carriages with Sleeping ColipartMitNTS are also run between London and Edinburgh and Greenock by the Night Trains.. The extra charge for berths in the Saloons or Sleeping Carriages is 5s. in addition to the ordinary 1st class fare.
Conductors, in charge of the Luggage, &c., travel by the Through Trains.
Dog Boxes specially provided.
Game Consignments conveyed by the Limited Mail;
Omnibuses capable of carrying Six persons inside, and two outside, with the usual quantity of Luggage,- are provided to meet Trains at Euston Station when previously ordered.1 The Omnibu'sfes will sLTso- -sent to any Hotels or Private Residences for conveyance to Euston Station of parties proposing to tra^ekby the West Coast Routed Application,-^ be made to any of the Stationmasters at the Stations on the West Coast Route.
Passengers .are requested to, ask for Tickets by-the, West Coasf RputejA
>Fi>r fall particulars of Twin! Service, Tourist arrangetnent3;r4c.; see the L. &N.WL and .Caledonian Coy.'s Time Books, or West Coast Tourist Guide, ,wliich can be obtained at alljarineipal Stations.
April 1882.	BY ORDER.84
RAILWAYS.
EAST COAST ROUTE
GREAT NORTHERN AND NORTH-EASTERN RAILWAYS. SPECIAL EXPRESS TRAINS
between
LONDON AND EDINBURGH AND G-XiASG-OW.
London to Edinburgh in 9.0 Hits. To Glasgow in 10 Hrs. 20 Mins.
ADDITIONAL SPECIAL EXPRESS TRAINS,
Conveying 1st and 2d Class Passengers only, now run between Glasgow, Edinburgh, and London, as under: DOWN.	UP.
King's Cross...... Dep. 10.0 a.m. Glasgow............Dep. 8.40 a.m.
Edinburgh......... An. 7.0 p.m. Edinburgh......... ,, 10.0 „
Glasgow........................8.20	King's Cross......Arr. 7.0 p.m.
THROUGH WEEK-DAY SERVICE between London and Scotland by East Coast Route.
	DOWN.					UP.				
	a.m.	a.m.	p.m.	p.m.		a.m.	p.m.	a.m.	p.m.	a.m.
Kino's Cross,Dep. 10.0		10.35	8.30*	9.0	Wick	Dep. 12.10		11.30	11.30	
Edinburgh	.Arr. 7.0	3.83	6.0	7.20	Thurso____	12.25		11.40	11.40	
Glasgow...		10.25	7.37	8.58	Helmsdale	3.30	6.0	2.10	2.10	
Stirling —	, „ 6.24	10.27	7.28	8.43	Golspie...	4.30	7.0	2.50	2.50	
Perth	. „ 9.25	11.0	8.23	9.55	Inverness.	10.10	1.30	lO.Of	lO.Of	
Dundee ,..		12.50	9.36	12.0	Aberdeen.	12.30	4.40			
Aberdeen..	.. „ 3.20	3.20	11.40	2.15		p.m.		a.m.	a.m.	
Inverness..	.. „ 8.0	8.0	1.30	0.25	Dundee...	„ 4:0	6.4	7.0	7.0	11.10
Golspie	„ ].7	1.7	5.14		Perth.....	,, 4.20	7.30	7.35	7.35	12.0
Helios dale	.. „ '2.15	2.15	5.51		Stirling...	,, 5.19	8.41	8.43	8.43	1.5
Thurso____	„ 4.45	4.45	7.50		Glasgow...	„ 6.0	8.50	8.40	8.40	1.0
Wick____	, „ 5.0	5.0	8.0		Edinburgh. „ 7.30 King's Ceoss.At. 5.45		10.20	10.0	10.15	2.50
							8.15	7.0	8.40	3.0
						a.m.	a.m.	p.m.	p.m.	a.m.
Third Class tickets are issued by all trains, except the additional Special Scotch Express trains, from King's Cross at 10.0 a.m., and Edinburgh at 10.0 a.m.
* The' 8.80 p.m. Express from London is in direct connection with the "Iona," and other West Coast Steamers.
+ Not run from Inverness on Saturday nights.
IMPROVED CARRIAGE STOCK
has been constructed, and is now in use for through traffic between London and Scotland. PUTaliMAN CARS & SLEEPING CARRIAGES are attached to the night trains. Alterations may be made in the times of the trains from month to month, for particulars of which see the East Coast Bailways' Monthly Time Books.
Conductors in charge of through luggage travel with the Express trains leaving London at 10.0 and 10.39 a.m., and 8.30 and 0.0 p.m.; and Perth at 4.20 p.m. and 7.35 a.m.; and Edinburgh at 10.0,10.15 a.m., 7.30 p.m. and 10.20 p.m.RAILWAYS.
85
EAST COAST ROUTE
GREAT NORTHERN AND WORTH-EASTERN RAILWAYS.
TOURIST TICKETS,
1st, 2d, and 3d Class, will be issued until 31st October, and will be available for return, without extra payment, until 31st December 1882. They will be issued in London, at King's Cross Station (G. N. R), Moor-gate Street Station (G. N. R. Office), and Victoria (L. C. & D.) to the undermentioned stations in Scotland :—
FARES.
	1st Class		2d Class		3d Class			1st Class		2d Class		3d Class	
	s.	d.	s.	d.	s.	ci.		s	d.	s.	d.	s.	d.
Coldstream	102	0	78	0	50	0	Perth	123	3	95	9	54	6
Berwick	* 99	9	75	9	49	6	Dunkeld	127	8	98	9	54	0
Melrose .	99	6	78	6	50	0	Dundee .	125	3	'96	9	56	0
Edinburgh .	109	6	85	0	50	0	Arbroath	128	3	97	6	56	0
Forfar .	131	3	100	0	56	0	Montrose	133	0	100	0	56	0
Glasgow . .	110	3	85	0	52	0	Brechin .	133	0	100	0	56	0
Helensburgh .	112	9	86	6	52	0	Aberdeen	133	6	100	0	56	0
Stirling . . .	114	3	89	0	53	6	Pitlochry . .	131	2	101	9	56	0
Bridge of Allan 115		0	84	6	54	0	Boat of Garten 147		10	114	3	60	0
Callander .	118	6	86	3	54	0	Keith	147	6	111	0	60	0
Dalmallt	129	9	96	2	62	0	Elgin . .	148	6	111	0	60	0
Loch Awe . .	130	3	96	2	62	0	Inverness .	150	0	116	0	60	0
Oban, via Dal-							Achnasheen .	157	6	122	6	67	6
mally . . .	132	3	98	2	64	0	Strome Ferry	164	9	128	0	70	0
Oban, via Glas-							Lairg .	160	0	124	3	70	0
gow or Helens-							Golspie .	165	0	127	9	72	6
burgh . . .	130	3	101	2	63	0	Helmsdale .	170	0	131	6	75	0
Oban, Circular							Thurso	184	6	142	6	83	0
Tour.	131	3	102	2	63	6	Wick .	186	9	144	0	84	0
BREAK OF JOURNEY.
Passengers may break their journey, both in going and returning, at Peterboro', also at Grantham or Doncaster to enable them to visit Lincoln Cathedral, paying the ordinary fares between those places and Lincoln, and at York to enable them to visit Harrogate, Scarboro', and the East Coast watering places, and also at Durham and Newcastle, resuming it by trains having carriages attached corresponding to the class of ticket held ; also at Berwick or any station north of Berwick on the routes by which the tickets are available. Passengers for places north of Edinburgh and Larbert may break the journey at Edinburgh and at Glasgow, and also at any station at which the train ordinarily stops. The journey can be broken both going and returning, and without restriction as to period, except that the return journey must be completed within the time for which the ticket is available. Passengers with tickets for Melrose are at liberty to break the journey at St. Boswell's for Dryburgh Abbey. The above facilities and arrangements, as regards Passengers breaking their journey, apply equally to 1st, 2d, and 3d class Passengers.
Tourist Tickets are available by any train of corresponding class.
See the Tourist Programmes of the Great Northern or North-Eastern Co. for information as to break of journey, extension of time, &c., &c.
For farther information apply at the Offices of the East Coast Eailwa^y Companies in	1 !
Edinburgh, 9 Princes Street.	Dundee, 1 Queen Street,
(Corner of Colgate).
Glasgow, 32 West George Street Aberdeen, 28 Uarket Street.
Fertfi, General Station.	Inverness, 10 Inglis Street.86
RAILWAYS.
Midland Railway,
Tie MIDLAND RATTRAY COMPANY provide '
7 OM N I BUSES
Between ST. PAjNCBAS STATION and. the MIDLAND GRAND HOTEL and CHARING CROSS a^d WATERLOO STATIONS. , -
A Service of 'Omnibuses has been established1 between Sk Pancras and Charing Cross-and Waterloo Stations, for the accommodation of Passengers travelling between the Midland and, South Eastern and London and South Western;.Railways, and to and from the Midland Grand Hotel.
The Omnibuses meet the Principal Trains, and Passengers holding Through Tickets between Stations on the Midland and South Eastern and London and South Western Railways, are conveyed by the Omnibuses Free of Charge.
Omnibuses for the use of Family Parties travelling by Midland Railway. The Company also provide
SINGLE-HORSE OMNIBUSES
Capable of carrying Six Persons inside and Two. outride, with the usual quantity of Luggage, to meet the Express and other principal Trains at the ST. PANCRAS STATION When PREVIOUSLY ORDERED.
These Vehicles must be ENGAGED BEFOREHAND, either by written application to the Station-Master at St. Pancras Station, or by giving notice to the Station-Master at the starting poi$t:(if a Midland Station), or at any Station en routenot less thUn 30 miles from, London, so that a telegram may be sent to St. Pancras to have the required Vehicle in readiness..
The Omnibuses will also be sent to the Hotels or Residences of PARTIES LEAVING LONDON by MIDLAND RAILWAY, or to any of the Railway Termini, on application being made to the Station-Master at St. Pancras, stating the Train by which it is intended to leave St. Pancras.
The charge for the use of an Omnibus will be One Shilling per mile (Driver and a reasonable quantity of Luggage included), with a minimum charge of Three Shillings.
NEW EOUTE BETWEEN ENGLAND and SCOTLAND.
AN improved service of Express'and Fast Trains has been established" between the Midland System and Scotland by the Spttle and Carlisle Route.
A Morning Express Train runs between London and Edinburgh and Glasgow, in each direction, with Pullman Drawipg-Room Cars attached, and a Night Express' Train runs In each direction between the same places, with Pullman Sleeping Cars attached. Additional Express Trains are also run during the Summer Months. **' '
For the convenience of Passengers to. and from the West of England and Scotland, a New Service of Express Passenger Trains.has been established to and from Bristol, Bath, Gtquqester, Cheltenham, Worcester, and Birmingham, in connection with the Through Service, between London and Edinburgh and Glasgow.
The Up, and. Down Day Express Trains stop half-an-hour at NoTmanton, to enable Passengers to dine, a spacious and comfortable Dining R,o'om having heeii provided.
Passengers.by this Route between London and Edinburgh and.Glas'goware conveyed in Through Carriages of the most improved descriptioii, fitted with the Westinghouse Continuous Break and all the llnost approved modern appliances, and Through Guards Accompany the principal trains in charge of Passengers'Inggage.	: "
Return Tickets between Stations in England and Stations in Scotland are available for One Calender &onth.	'
BELFAST,
BY THE SHORT SEA MAIL ROUTE via BARROW.
THE capacious NewDoeks of' Bflirowy situated-within the aneient'Barboto of Peel, undfcr shBlter of Walaey ipl^md, "being; now apeftfor	.Smj&aagrPaparfnl
First-class Paddle Steam Ships "Donegal," "Londonderry," "Armagh," "Roe,-j or) other First-class. Vesjelsj, will sail between Barrow (Ramsdgn Dock) and Belfast (weather'pa^witt^Dg) i4 oopji^ifon with through 'trains on the Midland and' FumessRAILWAYS.	&7
Railways ;Yaad tlyotigh Tickets to Belfast, in connection witlrthe ^Qat,;' from Londbiu ami all principal Stations on the MicUand'Railway-^B being available for'One Calendar Month.	' " "
Passengers to and from London, and other Stations south of Leicester, may break the journey at Furness Abbey, Leeds, Derby, Trent, or Leicester; and Passengers to or from Stations west of Derby, at Furness Abbey, Leeds, or Derby, taking care that from any of those places they proceed by Midland Trains.	;
BELFAST via LARNE.
Passengers are also booked through to Belfast by the Shortest Sea Route' irta' Carlisle, Dumfries, Stranraer* and Larne.	^ ''"
SCOTLAND.
TOURISTS' TICKETS.
During the summer months 1st and 3rd Class Tourist Tickets will be issued'from London (St, Pancras) and principal Station^ on the Midland Railway t® Edinburgh, Glasgow, Greenock, Oban, Melrose, Dumfries, Ayr, Stirling, Perth.
Dundee, Aberdeen, Inverness, and other principal places of interest. Saloon, Family, and Invalid Carriages can be obtained for the 'use of parties travel-, ling to and from Scotland by the Midland Route, by giving a few days', notice to: the Stationmaster at any of the principal Stations, or ta the Superintendent of the Line, Derby.
MORECAMBE AND THE ENGLISH LAKES.
Morecambe^ Windermere, Ambleside, Grange, FurnesS Abbey, Seascale, Penrith, Keswick, and Troutbeck.
Every Friday and Saturday, from May to October, Cheap ^Excursion Tickets to More-i cambe wilL be issued from Leicester, Nottingham, Derby, Sheffield, Masboro', Barnsley, Normantoi), Leeds, Bradford, Eeighley, Reptou, and principal intermediate points, available to return up to the Tuesday evening after date of issue.
For Dates, Fares, and further particulars, see Tourist Programmes and Special Handbills.
MATLOCK AND BUXTON.
Tourist Tickets are issued from principal Stations on the .Midland Railway, and Lines in connection. to Matlock and Buxton.	■
Passengers holding Ticketp to .Buxton are ajlo^vei to break thejourpey at principal places of interest on the Linfe between Matlock and Buxton.
RETURN TICKETS at Low Fares will be issued to Mattock and Buxton, by any of the Through Trains,, on Fridays and Saturdays, from May to October, arva,Uabl«,fc* Return by any Train wp to the TUESDA Y EVENING afterdate, of issue. ,	t
Scartoro , Whitby, Filey, Bridlington, Harrogate,, ilkley, and other Stations in the Yorkshire district,
Yarmouth, Lowestoft, Cromer, Cleethorpes, and other Stations oh the East Coast. Brighton, Hastings, Portsmouth, The Isle of Wight, Bournemouth, and pthes Stations in tfye South of England.
P6nzauce, Plymbuth, Torquay, Exeter, Weston-super-M&re, tlftaqombe, and other Stations in the West of England.	'	,'
Monmontb, Swansea, Tenby, and other Stations in South Wales. , Aberystwith, Llandudno, Rhyl, Bangor, and other Stations in North Waives. , Southport, Blackpool, and other Stations on the Lancashire Coast; and toi iflth/,. Malvern, Leamington, Brecon, etc.
For further particulars, see Tourist Programmes and Hand-bills.
P L E A S U R E P A R T I ES.
Ch^ap Return Tickets
Are issued to parties of notlegsth&n, SIX First; C1&8&, or TEN IThicd CQasft Baasenjgerg. desinbufl oftomg;£leiw,uTftExcurswfl$ to ptoses,pa orja^qeptt^j^j^R^Uvjw. •. .
Fftf particular^ ttyipiy to tl^ Stetio^at^efs. 'orto ttie Sup6finte'n^rit of the.ljine atDer"byi	'	''"	"'■'	■•■'<".;" i • ■!■ ;
Derby, 1882.	JOHN NOiBLE, 'Gyaerql Manager. ..■38
RAILWAYS.
GREAT WESTERN RAILWAY.
TOURIST ARRANGEMENTS.
First, Second, and Third Class Tourist Tickets, available for two months, and renewable, with exceptions, up to Dec. 31st, are issued during the Summer months of each year, at the principal stations on this Railway, to the Watering and other places of attraction in the "WEST OF ENGLAND, including:—
Clevedon.	Ltoton.	Torquay.
Weston-Super-Mare. Exeter.	Plymouth.
Minehead.	Dartmouth.	Devonport.
Barnstaple.	Dawlish.	Truro.
Ilfracombe.	Teignmouth. Falmouth.
Lynmouth.	Newton. Abbot. New Quay.
To North and South Wales, including—
Dolqelly. Barmouth. Aberystwith. Rhyl. To Buxton.
Isle of Man. To Brighton.
Eastbourne. And to Waterford.
Llandudno. Penma enmawr. Bettws-y-Coed. Bangor. Windermere. Scarborough. St. Leonards. Hastings. Cork.
Carnarvon. Holyhead. -Chepstow. Tintern. Scotland. Whitby. Isle of Wight. Ramsgate. Lakes of Killarney.
St. Ives. Penzance. Scilly Islands. Bridport. Dorchester. Weymouth, & the Channel Islands.
Swansea. Tenby. Pembroke. New Milford. Matlock.
Margate. Dover. Dublin, etc.
Passengers holding 1st or 2nd Class Tourist Tickets to the principal stations in the West of England can travel by the 11.45 a.m. Fast Train from Padding-ton, which reaches Exeter in four hours and a quarter, and Plymouth in six hours and a quarter ; or by the 3.0 p.m. Fast Train from Paddington, which reaches Exeter in the same time, and Plymouth in six hours.
Tourists by the Great Western Line—the Broad Gauge Route to the West of England—pass through the most picturesque scenery in Devonshire and Cornwall, extending from Exeter to Plymouth, Falmouth, St. Ives, Penzance, and the Land's End ; while the Broad Gauge Carriages running in the Fast Express Trains to and from the West of England, for which they have been specially built, are The Finest Railway Carriages in ordinary use in the Kingdom.
Holders of Tourist Tickets are allowed to break their journey at several stations en route, and visit at their leisure places of interest in the vicinity. The holders of 1st and 2nd Class ordinary tickets between London and Exeter, and places west thereof, are also allowed, both in summer and.winter, to break their journey at Bath, Bristol, or Taunton, and proceed the next day,—»an arrangement which conduces largely to the comfort of invalids and others to whom a lengthened railway journey is objectionable.
Family Carriages (with lavatories and other conveniences), containing compartments for servants, can be engaged on payment of not less than Four First Class and Four Second Class Fares. Application for these carriages should be made to the Superintendent of the Line, Paddington, some days before the proposed date of the journey, in order to prevent disappointment.
For particulars of the various Circular Tours, Fares, and other information, see the Company's Tourist Programmes, which can be obtained at the Stations cm4 Booking-offices.	J. GRIERSON, General Manager,RAILWAYS.
89
CALEDONIAN RAIiLWAY.
TOURS IN SCOTLAND.
The Caledonian Railway Company have arranged a system of Tours—about 70 in number—by Rail, Steamer, and Coach, comprehending almost every place of intercut either for scenery or historical associations throughout Scotland, including— EDINBURGH, GLASGOW. ABERDEEN, DUNDEE, INVERNESS, GREENOCK. PAISLEY, DUMFRIES, PEEBLES, STIRLING. PERTH, CRIEFF, DUNKELD, OBAN, INVERARAY, The Trosachs, Loch Katrine, Loch Lomond, Loch Earn, Loch Tay, Loch Awe, Caledonian Canal, Qlencoe, Iona, Staffa, Sbje, Balmoral, Braemar, Arran, Bute, The Firth of Clyde, The Falls of Clyde, &c. <bc. TOURISTS are recommended to procure a copy of the Caledonian Railway Company's "Tourist Guide," which can be had at any of the Company's Stations, and. also at the chief Stations on the London and North-Western Railway, and which contains descriptive notices of the Districts embraced in the Tours, Maps, Flans, Bird's-Eye View, &c.
Tickets for these Tours are issued at the Company's Booking Offices at all the large Stations. The Tourist Season generally extends from June to September, inclusive. The Caledonian Co. also issue Tourist Tickets to the Lake District of England, The Isle of Man, Connemara, The Lakes of KiUarney, <fcc.
The Caledonian Railway, in conjunction with the London and North-Western Railway, forms what is known as the
WEST COAST ROUTE
between
SCOTLAND AND ENGLAND.
DIRECT TRAINS RUN FROM AND TO GLASGOW, EDINBURGH, GREENOCK, PAISLEY, STIRLING, OBAN, PERTH, DUNDEE, ABERDEEN, INVERNESS, and other Places in Scotland,
to and from
LONDON (Euston), BIRMINGHAM, LIVERPOOL MANCHESTER, LEEDS,
BRADFORD, and other Places in England. Sleeping and Day Saloon Carriages. Through Guards and Conductors. The Caledonian Company's Trains from and to Edinburgh, Glasgow, Carlisle, Ac., connect on the Clyde with the "Columba," "Iona," "Lord of the Isles," "Ivan-hoe," "Gael," and other steamers to and from Dunoon, Innellan, Rothesay, LargB, Millport, the Kyles of Bute, Arran, Campbeltown, Ardrishaig, Inveraray, Loch Goil, Loch Long, Ac. &c.
A full service of Trains is also run from and to Glasgow, to and from Edinburgh, Stirling, Oban, Perth, Dundee, Aberdeen, and the North; and from and to Edinburgh, to and from these places.
For particulars of Trains, Fares, <tc., see the Caledonian Railway Co.'s Time Tablet. It is expected that the Caledonian Company's large and magnificent
NEW CENTRAL STATION HOTEL, GLASGOW,
will be opened during the Season of 1882, imder the Company's own Management.
General Manaoer's Office,	JAMES THOMPSON,
v Glasgow, 1882.	General Manager.90
RAILWAYS.
MAENCLOOHOG RAILWAY.
co:
VIEWS FROM THE TOP OF PRECELLY MOUNTAIN
PEMBROKESHIRE,
ise- Coast of; Ipel^nd, Ooast of Devonshire,; Sijoydpn, ' Island, St. Bride's, Cardigan, and Swansea Bays. ■
EaByVftUt
&om
Rosebush
Station,
Clynderwen. Tourist Season, May 1 to Sept. 30.
Third Class Fare, Is. there, and back.
Range ofView, comprising 12( Cpimtiefs.
1. Caernarvonshire (Wales'); , . 2. Merionbt;H&HIRE 0> v -MflWTGtOMERY	„
4.	Cardigan	,,
5.	Radnor
6.	fifcECON
7.	Carmarthen (Wales).
8.	Pembroke)	v
9.	Glamorgan
10.	Devonshire: (England.).
11.	Somersetshire (England).
12.	Wexford & WIcklow (Ireland).RAILWAYS.
91
GftEAI SflPKERN ANDJVESTBRN RAIkWftY. lRjEiAHD.
LAKES QF KILLARNEY.
•RAILWAY HOTEL.
ADJOINS Lord Kenmare's Demesne, and is situated within easy distance of Boss Castle, Muckross Aljbey and Grounds, .the Gapi of Dnnlofe, and the principal points of interest.
This Hotel, the largest in the Lake District, possesses unusually good accommodation for Tourists and Families, including spacious and well-furnished Ladies' Drawing Room, Writing, Reception, -Billiard, Smokingj Dining,1 and Private Sitting Rooms. All the Public and Private Sitting Rooms, are provided with Pianofortes.
Visitors can arrange to board at the Hotel at charge of 43 - 3s. per week.
The Porters offfie Hotel await the arrival of each Tjcdn for the removal of Luggage, &c.
.The Manager personally undertakes the formation of Excursion; Parties with a view to their comfort and economy.
The Lakes afford excellent. Salmon and Troyt Fishing.
b0at9j Carriages,i, Ponies, &c., with Steady	Ai^A^t^^PJ
for Engagement.
Boatmen, Guides, Drivers, and other Servants of the Hotel, are paid ample wages, and are not permitted to solicit Visitors for Gratuities. ;
A Waggonette will run, from 1st June to 30th September, between1 the Hptet &nd f}oss Castle. Fare, 6d. each way.
From 1st MAY to 31s* OCTOBER 1882, TOURISTS' TICKETS from DUBLIN TO KILLARNEY & BACK
Will be issued by the Trains which run direct to Killarney, at the
	following Fares,	viz.—	Second Cla^s.
		First Class.	
» Ticket for One Passenger		£2 10 0	£,2, 0 0
Do.	Two Passengers	4 10 0	3 12 0
Do.	Three:	6 7 6	5 2 *0
Do.	Four	8 0 0	6 '8 0.
Do.	Five	9 7 6	7 10 0
Do.	Six	10 10 0	■a 8 o
Do.	Seven	11 7 6	9 2 0
Do.	Eight „	12 0 0<	9 12 0
AVAILABLE FOR RETURN ON ANY DAY WITHIN ONE, CALENDAR MONTH.
The time of: these Tickets can be extended upon the term?, stated in theComptvny'n Tourist, Erograwne.,	,
N.B.—Tickets to KILLARNEY can be obtained ait the principal "Stations oik thjis London and North Western, Midland, Great Western, Lancashire and Yorkshire, Manchester, Sheffield, and Lincolnshire, North Staffordshire, Cafodonian, and North British Hail ways, and Railways, in; Inland. Kinqbbridge, Dublin.92
RAILWAYS.
GLASGOW & SOUTH-WESTERN RAILWAY.
DIRECT ROUTE BETWEEN
SCOTLAND & ENGLAND.
THROUGH TRAINS ARE RUN BETWEEN
GLASGOW (St. Enoch) and LONDON (St. Pancras).
Via the GLASGOW & SOUTH-WESTERN and MIDLAND RAILWAYS, Giving a Direct and Expeditious Service between GLASGOW, GREENOCK, PAISLEY, AYR, ARDROSSAN, KILMARNOCK, DUMFRIES, &c., and LIVERPOOL, MANCHESTER, BRADFORD, LEEDS, SHEFFIELD, BRISTOL, BATH, BIRMINGHAM, LONDON, 6c.
PULLMAN DRAWING-ROOM AND SLEEPING CARS
Are run by the Morning and Evening Trains between GLASGOW and LONDON.
FIRTH OF CLYDE AND WEST HIGHLANDS, VIA GREENOCK.
EXPRESS and FAST TRAINS are run at convenient hours between
GLASGOW AND GREENOCK
(St. Enoch Station)	(Lynedoeh St. and Princes Pier Stations)
IN DIRECT CONNECTION WITH THE
" COLTTMBA," "IOWA," "LOBD OP THE ISLES,"
And other Steamers sailing to and from Kirn, Dunoon, Innellan, Bothesay, Kyles of Bute, Ardrishaig, Oban, Inveraray, Largs, Millport, Kiloreggan, Kilmun, Loohgoilhead, GarelootLhead, &o.
Through Carriages are run by certain Trains between GREENOCK (Princes Pier) and EDINBURGH (Waverley), and by the Morning and Evening Express Trains between GREENOCK (Princes Pier) and LONDON (St. Pnncras).
RETURN TICKETS issued to Coast Towns are available for RETURN AT ANY TIME.
Passengers are landed at Princes Pier Station, from whence there is a Covered Way to the Pier, where the Steamers call; and Passengers' Luggage is conveyed free of charge between the Station and the Steamers.
ARRAN AND AYRSHIRE COAST.
An Express and Fast Train Service is given between GLASGOW (St. Enoch), PAISLEY, and TROON, PRESTWICK, AYR, ARDROSSAN, FAIRLIE, &c.
From ARDROSSAN the Splendid Saloon Steamer, "BRODICK CASTLE," sails daily to and from the ISLAND OF ARRAN, in connection with the Express Train Service.
Fast Trains provided with Through Carriages are run between AYR, &c., and GLASGOW (St. Enoch)tand EDINBURGH (Waverley).
IRELAND.
A NIGHTLY SERVICE is given bv the Royal Mail Steamers via GREENOCK, and also by the ARDROSSAN SHIPPING COMPANY'S Full-Powered Steamers via ARDROSSAN.
For particulars as to Trains and Steamers see the Company's Time Tables. Glasgow, May 1882.	W. J. WAINWRIGHT, General Manager.STEAMERS.
93
FLEETWOOD TO BELFAST
AND THE
NOKTH OP rff&Sfci^ IRELAND.
EVERT EVENING	(SUNDAYS EXCEPTED).
In connection with the Lancashire and Yorkshire, and London and North-Western Railways.
The north Lancashire steam navigation company's
Royal Mail Steam Ships, Earl of Ulster (New Steamer), I Thomas Dugdale, Duke of Connaught,	| Princess of Wales,
LEAVE FLEETWOOD FOR BELFAST ; Every Evening (Sundays excepted), at or after 7.40 p.m., after arrival of trains from London, Birmingham, Hull, Newcastle, Bradford, Leeds, Liverpool, Manchester, Preston, and all parts of the Kingdom ; returning
FROM BELFAST TO FLEETWOOD
Eveiy,Evening (Sundays excepted), at 8.0 p.m., arriving in Fleetwood in time for early morning trains to the above places.
FARES.—Saloon, 12s. 6d. ; Steerage, 5s. ; Return Tickets (available for one month), Saloon, 21s. ; Steerage, 8s. 6d. Through Tickets (single and return) are also issued from all the principal Stations of the London and North-"Western, Lancashire and Yorkshire, North-Eastern, Great "Western, Great Northern and Manchester, Sheffield, and Lincolnshire Railway Companies, to Belfast, and vice versa,
SPECIAL TOURISTS' TICKETS AVAILABLE FOR TWO MONTHS
are issued during the Summer Season, via the Fleetwood Route, whereby Tourists may visit all places of interest in the North of Ireland and Dublin. For particulars, see the Lancashire and Yorkshire and London and North-Western Companies' Books of Tourists' Arrangements.
At Fleetwood the railway trains run alongside the steamers, and passengers' luggage is carried from the train at the quay on board free of charge.
Fleetwood is unrivalled as a steam packet station for the North of Ireland, and the unexampled regularity with which the Belfast Line of Steamers have made the passage between the two ports for more than thirty years, is probably without a parallel in steamboat service, and has made this Route the most popular, as it is certainly the most Expeditious and Desirable, for Passengers, Goods, and Merchandise, between the great centres of commerce in England, and the North and North-West of Ireland.
For further information, see Bradshaw's Guide, page 382, or apply at any of the stations of the Railway Companies before named; T. C. Haines, 20 Donegall Quay, Belfast; or to THOS. H. CARR, Fleetwood.94
STEAMERS.
AN©M(DR. LI NE.
DIRECT STEAM COMMUNICATION
By the
Acabia
Alexandria
Alsatia
Auchobxa
Armenia
Assyria
Australia
Belgravia
Bolivia ;
.(Carrying the United Slates' Mails) First-Class Powerful Steam Packet
Britannia
Caledonia
California
Castalia
Circassia
Columbia
Devonia
Dorian
Eltsia
-Ethiopia Furnessia Galatia Hesperia .Hispania India Ischia Italia Justitia
Ships, Oltmpia Roumania" Scandinavia Scotia Sidonian Trinacrla Ttrian Utopia Victoria1
GLASGOW TO NEW YORK,
Via LONDONDERRY (MOVILLE, LOOH EOYLE). Carrying U.S.: M^s,eyery Thursday ; and from JfEW YQItK, Pier 20, N. River, every Saturday. Saloon Passage, £12; 12s., £l4 : 14s., aiid'£16,: I6s. Second Cabin £8 : 8s. Steerage, £6 :'6s.
TO MD FROM LONDON AND NEW YORK,
Direct, every Saturday.
Saloon Passage, £10 :10s.' to £15 :15s. Steerage, £6 : 0s.
GLASGOW TO BOMBAY,
Via LIVERPOOL AND SUEZ CANAL, every Fortnight. Saloon Passage, £45 from Liverpool.
GLASGOW AND MEDITERRANEAN SERVICE.
Lisbon, Gibraltar, Genoa, Naples, Messina, Palermo, and other Ports as required. And from thence to New York, Every Fortnight.
Glasgow to Lisbon, £6 : 6s. ; Gibraltar, £8 : 8s. ; Genoa, £12 :12s. ; Leghorn, £13 :13B. ; Naples, £14 :14s. ; Messina or Palermo, £16 :'16s. Round Voyage and baok to Glasgow, 35 Guineas.
Passengers Booked to all parts of the United States and Canada. Apply to Henderson Brothers, 18 Leadenhall Street,' London ; 17 Water Street, .• Liverpool; 1 Panmure Street, Dundee ;. Soyle Street, Londonderry ; 2 Rue Noallis, Marseilles; 3 Rue Scribe,. Paris j.7 Bowling Green, ,New York ; or tp	HENDERSON • BROTHERS^
47 Union Street,1 Glasgow, .1STEAM EES.	#5
"ALLAN" ROYAL MAIL STEAMERS
TO
UNITED STATES AND CANADA.
rpHESE splendid Steamers, "Parisian," "Sarmatian," <fcc., which have Unsurpassed -1- Cabin accommodation, and are celebrated for their speed, sail every week from
Liverpool to Quebec, calling at Londonderry, to embark Mails and Passengers. This is the shortest sea passage to America, and a great portion of it is in comparatively smooth water, i.e. going up the Gulf of 8t. -Lawrence, Liverpool to St. John's, JSf.P., Halifax, N.S., and Baltimore, every fortnight.
Liverpool to Boston, U.S., regularly. Boston, although withih 6 hours' journey by rail of New York, is 200 miles nearer thamthe latter to this country. Passengers from
Liverpool to JJgw.YoBK are forwarded from Boston to New York without jextra .charge.
(jCA.seo'fr to Quebec every Week. Glasgow to Boston- ever/W&k. ' '
g£" Passengers taking "Return Tickets" by this line can go out or return-^y any 6f the above'Ports wfthout extra charge.
Apply to Hugh*and Andrew'Allan,'Montreal and Boston ; Allans, Rae, and Company, Quebec; A. Schumacher and .Company, Baltimore; S. Cunard aqd Company, Halifax; Mohtgohjerie and Workman, 17 Gracechurch Street, London, E.C.; Allan Brothers and Companyj'Jamds-Street, Liverpool ; or to ;
JAMES & ALEXANDER ALLAN,
70 Grefet Clyde Street, Glasgow.
LEITH AND LONDON
THE LONDON & EDINBURGH SHIPPING COMPANY'S
j. vSPLBNIJIB • PAST-SAILING SCREW-STEAMSPIPS	T
MALVtttA (New Steamer), : ' " MAflMION, K>NA, MOflNA, OR OTHER Of THE COMPANY'S STEAMERS,
Sail from Victoria Dock, , Leith, ev$ry Wednesday, Friday, mui Scitur-day afternoon ; and from Hermit'agb Steam Wharf, London, every Monday', Wednesday, and Saturday inoniiiig.
For Rates of Freight and Fares, apply to THOMAS' AlTiBtoi 8 CommejQial Str'e£t, Lediti.96	steamers.
TO TOURISTS.
STEAM TO CAITHNESS
and the
ISLANDS of ORKNEY and SHETLAND.
The swift and elegant Steamships " St. Magnus," " St. Nicholas," " St. Clair," and " Queen " (carrying H.M. Shetland, Mails) sail from Albert Dock, Leith, and Aberdeen during summer, to Thurso, Stromness (Orkney), and to Scalloway and west side of Shetland, once a week ; and to Wick, Kirkwall, and Lerwick twice a week. Fares very low, and Passenger accommodation first-class.
The new Steamship " Earl of Zetlandbuilt and specially adapted for the trade, sails tvrice a week between Lerwick and the North Isles of Shetland; and the S.S. " Orcadia" sails between Kirkwall and the Islands of Orkney, giving Tourists unequalled facilities for visiting the Islands with every comfort.
Apply to Charlbs Merrylees, Manager, Aberdeen ; or to George Hourston, Agent, 64 Constitution Street, Leith, and 18 Waterloo Place, Edinburgh.
NEW ROUTE. GLASGOW AND THE HIGHLANDS.
THE Steamers " Dunara Castle " and " Aros Castle " sail from Glasgow for Oban, Colonsay, and Iona, Aros, Tobermory, Croag, and Bunessan (Mull), Tyree, and Coll, Struan, Carbost, Dunvegan, Stein, and Uig (Skye), Tarbert and Rodel (Harris), Lochmaddy, Kallin, Carnan and Lochboisdale (tJist), and Barra.
The Tourist who desires (within the limits of a weekj and at a reasonable expense) a panoramic view of the general scenery of the Hebrides, with all its varied beauty, sublimity, and grandeur, has no better opportunity afforded him than by taking the round in one of these Steamers.
Further information and Time-bills may be had by applying to
MARTIN ORME, 20 Robertson Street, Glasgow.STEAMERS.
97
GLASGOW, BELFAST, BRISTOL, CARfilFF, AND SWANSEA STEAMERS,
•SOLWAY,' 'AVON,' 'SEVERN,' 'PRINCESS ALEXANDRA,'
Sail with Goods and Passengers from Glasgow to Bristol every Monday and Thursday at 2 p.m. ; Glasgow to Cardiff every Monday at" 2 p.m. ; Glasgow to Swansea every Thursday at 2 p m. ; all via Belfast. From Bristol to Glasgow every Tuesday and Saturday; Swansea to Glasgow every Wednesday; Cardiff to Glasoow (via Bristol) every Thursday; ajll via Belfast.
Fares (Glasgow)—Cabin, 20s.; Steerage 12s. fid.; Deck (Soldier* or Sailors), 10s.
„ (Belfast)—Cabin, 17s. 6d.; Steerage, 10s.
Returns for Cabin and Steerage issued at Fare and a half available for Two Months.
These Steamers, have superior Cabin accommodation, and offer a good opportunity for parties making a pleasant sea trip to or from West of England.
Goods carried for Newport (Mon.), Exeter, Gloucester, Cheltenham, etc. etc.
For Rates of Freight and other particulars, apply to
Mark Whitwill & Son, Bristol; M. Jones ft Bro., Swansea; E. Taylor & Co., Cardiff; R. Burton & Son, Newport (Mon.); R. Henderson & Son, Belfast; or WILLIAM SLOAN & CO., 140 Hope Street, Glasgow.
ABERDEEN
AND
LONDON
Average Passage 36 Bowrs.
THE ABERDEEN STEAM NAVIGATION COMPANY'S STEAMSHIPS
BAN-HIGH, CITY OF LONDON, or CITY OF ABERDEEN,
will be despatched (weather, etc., permitting) from ABERDEEN* and from The Aberdeen Steam Navigation Co. 's Wharf, Limehouse, LONDON, every Wednesday and Saturday.
Fares—including Stewards' Fees—Private Cabins accommodating four passengers, £6. Private Cabins, if occupied by fewer than four passengers, £5.
Single Tickets—First Cabin, 30s. ; Second Cabin, 15s.; Children under fourteen years, 15s. and 10s. Return Tickets—available for three months—45s. and 25s.; Children, 25s. and 15s.
Passengers will please observe that during the season the Co.'s steamer' Ich Dien' will start from the Temple Pier, Thames Embankment, one hour before the advertised, times of sailing, conveying passengers and-their luggage alongside the Aberdeen Steamers free of charge. Porters in the Company's service will assist with the luggage.
For further particulars apply to John A Clinkseill, Agent, The Aberdeen Steam Navigation Co.'s Wharf, Limehouse; and 102 Queen Victoria Street, B.C., London; or to Charles Shepherd, Manager, Waterloo Quay, Aberdeen.
G98
STEAMERS.
DUBLIN & GLASGOW STEAM PACKET COMPANY.
The Company's splendid Saloon Paddle Steamships—Duke of Argyll, Duke of Lein-ster, Lord Clyde, Lord Gou.qh, or other Steamers, are intended to Sail, unless prevented by any unforeseen occurrence, to and from Glasgow & Dublin, calling at Greenock.
SAILINGS AS PER MONTHLY BILLS. GLASGOW to DUBLIN.—Every Monday, Wednesday, and Friday, and every alternate
Tuesday, Thursday, and Saturday. DUBLIN to GLASOO W.—Every Monday, Wednesday, and Friday, and every alternate Tuesday, Thursday, and Saturday. Train from Central Station, Glasgow, at 6.30 p.m.; Steamer leaving Greenock about 7.30 p.m. Fares.—From Glasgow (including Steward's Fees), Cabin 15s.; Ditto (including Bail to Greenock), 16s. 3d: .Return Tickets (available for Six Months), £1:2:6; Ditto (including Rail to Greenock), £1: 5s. Steerage fare from Glasgow, 6s. (including rail to Greenock), 6s. 9d. Return Tickets (available for six months), 10s. (including rail to Greenock), lis. 6d. Through Express Train (per Caledonian Railway) from Leith at 4.30 p.m., and'from Edinburgh (Princes Street Station) at 5 p.m. to Greenock in direct connection with the Dublin Steamer. Passengers are also booked through from the following Railway Stations to Dublin, and vice versa, viz.—
	Single.		Return, available for 2 mths.			Single.		Return, available for 2 mths.	
	lstcl.	3 cl. & Strage.	1st cl.	3 cl. <& Strage.		lstcl.	3 cl. 6 Strage.	1st cl.	3 cl. & Strage.
Alloa .....	s. d. 19	1 30 8 39 6 23 6 21 0 28 0 27 9 20	0	s. d. 8	7 14 3J 18 8 10 7i 9	9 12 11 12 10 8 6	s. d. 26 4 40 10 51 11 31 11 28 9 37 6 42 11 30 0	s. d. 13	2 20	5 25 10 15 10 14	8 18 7 21	5 14 0	Forfar......	s. d. 30 0 17 3 48 6 20 0 33 6 24 6 16 3 19 0	s. d. 13 10J 7	4i 23 3 8	6 15 8 11 8 6 9 8 5	s. d. 40 0 27 0 73 2 30 0 44 5 33 2 25	0 26	3	s. d. 19 10 12	9 14" 0 22 1 16 6 11 6. 13	0
Arbroath... Aberdeen .. CriefT...... Callander .. Dundee (W.) Bnmfrles... Edinburgh..					Hamilton... Inverness...				
					Montrose... Perth.......				
					Paisley..... Stirling.....				
Booking Office at Dublin for Passengers—1 Eden Quay. Chief Office and Stores— 71 North Wall, Dublin. Goods carried at Through Rates from Glasgow and Greenock to inland Towns in Ireland; and also from a number of the Principal Railway Stations in Scotland to Dublin and Inland Stations in Ireland, and vice versa. Further particulars, Monthly Bills, 4ic., on application to the undermentioned agents:— JAMES LITTLE & CO., Excise Buildings, Greenock, and
HENRY LAMONT, 93 Hope Street, adjoining Central Station, and Broomielaw, Glasgow.
A. PAYLOR, Dublin, Secretary.	B. MANN, Dublin, General Manager.
JOSEPH GILLOTT'S STEEL PENS.
Sold by all dealers throughout the World.STEAMERS—MISCELLANEOUS.
99
T
BARBOW ROUTE
TO THE ISLE OP MAN.
SEASON 1882. SHORTEST SEA PASSAGE-ONLY THREE HOURS.
HE Splendid Paddle Steamships "Manxman" "Roe" and "Herald" are intended to sail during the season as under—
May 2d to May 25 th. BARBOW TO DOUGLAS Every Tuesday, Thursday, and Saturday, at 2.50 p.m.
May 27th to September ZOth. BABBOW TO DOUGLAS DAILY (Sundays excepted), at 1.45 p.m.
May 3rd to May 26th. DOUGLAS TO BABBOW Every Monday, Wednesday, and Friday, at 9.30 a.m.
May 29th to September 30th. DOUGLAS TO BABBOW DAILY (Sundays excepted), at 8.0 a.m.
Particulars of additional Sailings during July and August will be announced in Time Tables and Sailing Bills for those respective months.
In connection with trains to and from all parts of the United Kingdom. Carrying Passengers at through fares to and from all parts of England and Scotland by Fast Trains, which run alongside the steamers at Barrow.
For Further Information apply to
JAMES LITTLE & CO., Glasgow and Barrow-in-Furness.
PHOTOGRAPHS OP SCOTTISH SCENERY
VALENTINE & SONS,
Late J. Valentine. Photographer by	To Her Majesty
Special Appointment iS^^^^^^h^f The Queen,
152 & 154 PERTH ROAD, DUNDEE.
Embracing a very large series of the principal places of interest in the Lowlands and Highlands, in Imperial (8 x 12), Cabinet, Card, and Stereoscopic Sizes.
Selections geographically arranged, made up in the finest Morocco Bindings, suitable for Presentation, from £1 : Is. to £15 : 15s. each.
Also, Illustrations of the various Tourists' districts, in Cabinet 10s. 6d. and Card Size, 5s. Books in Neat Cloth Bindings.
Catalogues on application.
These Views may be had of all respectable Booksellers and Printsellera also of Agents in the districts which the Views illustrate.100
Jhl/T.
miscellaneous;
JACKS'
'f oPkr/. '


or THE WORLD.
In Folio, Half-hound Morocco, Gilt Edges, Pi-ice £3 : 3s. CONTENTS.
GEOGRAPHICAL" DESCRIPTION OF THE VARIOUS COUNTRIES.
THE MAPS.
The Flags of all Nations (Frontispiece). 1, 2. The Wortd in Hemispheres. 8. World oil Meroatoi's Projection. 4. Physical and Ethnographical Charts. 6. Zoological and Botanical Charts.
6.	Celestial Hemispheres.
7.	Solar System, the Seasons, etc.
8.	Europe.
9.	10. England and Wales. 11, 12. Scotland.
13.	Ireland.
14.	France.
16. Switzerland.
16.	Holland, Belgium, and Luxemburg.
17,	18. German Empire.
19.	Austria-Hungary.	\
20,	21, 22. Sweden, Norway, & Denmark. 28. Russia in Europe.
24.	Spain and Portugal.
25.	Italy.
26 TTurkey in Europe, Roumania, Senna, 27J Greece, &e.
28.	Asia.
29.	Turkey in Asia, and Cyprus.
80.	Palestine.
81.	Persia, Afghanistan, and Beloochistan.
82.	89. India.
34. China. v34a. Japan.
85. Indian Archipelago, Burmah, Siam.
36.	Africa.
30a. Algeria, Tunis, and Morocco.
37.	Egypt and Arabia Petrsea.
38.	South Africa.
39.	North America.
40.	41. United States.
42.	Canada and New England States.
43.	The Southern States.
44.	The Western States.
45.	West India Islands.1
46.	Mexico, Central America.
47.	48. South America.
49.	Venezuela, New Granada, Equado'r,
and Peru.
50.	Chili, Argentine Republic, and Bolivia.
51.	Brazil, Uruguay, Paraguay, and
Guayana.
52.	Australia.
52a. New South Wales. 52b. Victoria.
53.	New Zealand and Tasmania.
54.	Polynesia and Pacific Ocean.
55,50. The World as known to the Ancients. Index of 68,000 Names
EDINBUKGH: A. & C. BLACK.MISCELLANEOUS.
101
THE WAVERLEY NOVELS.
AUTHOR'S EDITIONS.
COMPLETE SETS at the following Prices:—
1.	Price £l : Is. Sixpenny Edition in 4 vols. 8vo, half French
morocco. The same in half calf, price £l : 7 s.
2.	Price £l :14s. Shilling Edition, Illustrated with 125 Wood
Engravings, in 12 vols. fcap. 8vo, cloth. The same in leather hack, extra gilt, price £2 ; or in half calf, price £2 :12s.
3.	Price £l : 17s. Pocket Edition, Illustrated "with a Stee
Portrait and Woodcut Vignettes, in 25 vols. 12mo, cloth The same in limp Cape morocco, price £3 : 5s.
4.	Price £4 : 4s. Centenary Edition, with Additional Notes,
Illustrated with 158 Steel Plates, in 25 vols, crown 8vo, cloth. The same may be had in half calf or morocco.
5.	Price £7 : 4s. Author's Favourite Edition (1847), with Steel
Frontispieces and Woodcut Vignettes, in 48 vols, fcap. 8vo, cloth.
6.	Price £6. illustrated Edition, with 1600 Woodcuts and 96
Steel Plates, in 48 vols. fcap. 8vo, cloth, paper labeL The same may be had in half French morocco, price £8 : 8s.
7.	Price £10:12:6. Hew Library Edition, Illustrated with
about 200 Steel Engravings by the most Eminent Artists of their time, and printed in large type, in 25 vols, large 8vo, cloth.
EDINBURGH : A. & 0. BLACK.102
MISCELLANEOUS.
TOURISTS' MAPS.
(SELECTED FROM JOHNSTON'S "ROYAL ATLAS.")
Mounted on Canvas, and bound in a Pocket-Case.
America (U.S.) Australia
Austria .... Belgium and the Netherlands Canada . England .
France, in departments. Germany, Empire of, 8.W. part N.
India
Ireland
Italy
Mediterranean Shores
Palestine
Prussia .
Scotland .
Spain and Portugal
Sweden and Norway
Switzerland
cket-Case.	9.	d.
of 6675 Names .	8	0
1980 „	4	6
6300 „	8	0
5300 „	4	6
8070 „	8	0
11,700 „	8	0
4406 „	4	6
4470 „	4	6
2550 „	4	6
7500 „	8	0
,5270 „	4	6
6170 „	8	0
2170 „	4	6
3100 „	4	6
2550 „	4	6
9000 „	8	0
4100 „	4	6
1630 „	4	6
4907 „	4	6
Now Beady,
JOHNSTON'S NEW TRAVELLING ojr LIBRARY MAP OF ENGLAND, fully »J Coloured, on Cloth and in Case; or on Rollers, Varnished, with Index to 11,000 Names. Price 12s. 6d..
The Publishers have great confidence in recommending this as a very useful Reference Map ; it shows in complete detail Towns, Villages, Railways, Roads, Country Seats, etc. etc.
Complete Catalogue of Maps, Ac., on application.
W. & A. K. JOHNSTON,
EDINBURGH.
EDINA WORKS', EASTER ROAD, and 16 SOUTH ST. ANDREW STREET,
6 PATERNOSTER BUILDINGS, LONDON, E.C.
In Grown 8vo, Price 6s. 6d.
EPITOME OP GARDENING
BY THOMAS MOOEE, F.L.S. AND DR. M. F. MASTEKS, F.R.S.
joint editors of the ' gardener's chronicle.'
IllugtrateU fcrftlj upfrrartos of 200 flZtotocuta.
EDINBURGH: ADAM AND CHARLES BLACK.MISCELLANEOUS.

BIRMINGHAM.
MESSENGER & SONS,
MANUFACTURERS OF
CHANDELIERS. CANDELABRA. AND GAS FITTINGS,
IN BRONZE AND ORMOLU : Carefully constructed on a principle to avoid the]Escape and Odour of Gas.
UBiBSjeeab iBa aoaa' oa»h in tp"( thtbrhaviohal >xhibiti«v. MED All AWARDED.
REPORT OP THE JURORS :—" Messenger and Sons, for great progress, and also for Elegance of Design and Excellent Workmanship." IRON BALLINGS FOR STAIRCASES, BALCONIES, &o.; Also, Manufacturers and Patentees of
RAILWAY SIGNAL, CARRIAGE ROOF, AND OTHER LAMPS AND CARRIAGE FURNITURE.104
MISCELLANEOUS.
MOURNING.
MESSRS. JAY'S
EXPERIENCED Dressmakers and Milliners travel to any part of the Kingdom, free of expense to purchasers. They take Dresses and Millinery with them, besides Patterns of Materials at One Shilling per yard and upwards, all marked in plain figures, and at the same price as if purchased at the Warehouse, in Regent Street. Reasonable Estimates are also given for Household Mourning, at a great saving to large or small Families.
Funerals at Stated Charges conducted in London or Country.
JAY'S,
THE LONDON GENERAL MOURNING WAREHOUSE,
REGENT STREET, LONDON, W.MISCELLANEOUS.
105
L AMPLOUGH'S
PYRETIC SALINE.
Effervescing and Tasteless. Have it in your Houses and. forget it not in your Travels.
It is most remarkable, preventing or giving instant relief in Headache, Sea or Bilious Sickness, Constipation, Indigestion, Lassitude, Heartburn, and Feverish Colds, and quickly relieves or cures Smallpox, Measles, Scarlet, Typhus, and other Fevers, Eruptive or Skin Complaints.
Beware of other Salines and the vile rubbish pressed forward with unblushing effrontery by unprincipled persons in imitation of Pyretic Saline.
PYRETIC SALINE is warranted not to contain Magnesia, or "any substance likely to produce gallstones or other calculous or gouty deposits.
Sold by all Chemists in Bottles, 2s. 6d., is. 6d., lis., and 21s.
LAMPLOUGH'S CONCENTRATED LIME JUICE SYRUP.
A Perfect Luxury. In Bottles, 2s. and 4s. 6d.
H. LAMPLOUGH, 113 Holbprn, London.
Gold Medal, Paris, 1878. Medals, Sydney, 1880, Melbourne, 1881,
EXTRACT.
GUARANTEED PERFECTLY PURE COCOA ONLV DEPRIVED OF THE SUPERFLUOUS OIL.
" Strictly pure."—W. W. Stoddabt, City and County Analyst, Bristol. "Pure Cocoa."—Chas. A. Camkron, Analyst for Dublin.
Try also FRY'S CARACAS COCOA,
"A DELICIOUS PREPARATION."
15 Prize Medals awarded to J. S. Fry & Sons.106
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LUmiscellaneous.
107
TOURISTS & TRAVELLERS
Ladies visiting the Seaside, Rinking, Driving, or otherwise exposed to the scorching rays of the sun or heated particles of dust, will find
ROWLAND'S KALYDOR
most cooling and refreshing to the face, hands, and arms. It eradicates all Sunburn, Freckles, Tan, Stings of Insects, and produces a beautiful and delicate complexion. Sizes 4s. 6d. and 8s. 6d. per bottle.
ROWLAND'S 0D0NT0
whitens the teeth, prevents and arrests decay. 2s. 9d. per box.
Ask any Chemist, Perfumer, or Hairdresser for ROWLAND'S ARTICLES.
PHOTOS FOR PRESENTS—LETTS.
A LARGE collection of "Views of this Neighbourhood from Is. each ; also of Yiew^ of other parts of the United Kingdom, France, Italy, Spain and Portugal, Norway, Switzerland, Egypt, Palestine, India, United States, English Cathedrals, Abbeys, and Castles, on approval, to double amount of cash sent. Lists on receipt of stamped addressed envelope to
LETTS, LIMITED, 72 Queen Victoria St.,
LONDON, E.C.
TRAVELLERS' REQUISITES.
"jl/TAPS of every Country or part of the World; Knapsacks and Bags ; Passports and Visas; Colour Boxes, Drawing Blocks, Guide Book of Roads, describing their character.
Send Stamp for Tourists' Catalogue.
LETTS, LIMITED, LONDON BRIDGE, E.G.1-08
INSURANCE.
NORTH BRITISH & MERCANTILE
" INSURANCE : COMPANY.
©stablwljeli 1809. 'ftEeUiURCES OF THE QOMPANY AS AT 31st DECEMBER 1881.
I. -Subscribed Capital—
Paid-up .	£500,000 0 0
Uncalled .	1,500,000 0 0
IL Fire Fund—
Reserve .
Premium Reserve .... Balance of Profit and Loss Account
TTT, life'Fund—
Accumulated Fund of the Life Branch
Do. do. Annuity Branch
IV. Revenue for the Year 1881—
From the Life Department. Life Premiums and Interest Annuity. Premiums and Interest ,
From Fire Department. Fire Premiums and Interest.
£2,000,000	0	0
£844,577	0	0
319,551	0	0
64,367	0	0
£1,218,495	0	0
£3,112,590	0	0
395,515	0	0
£3,508,105	0	0
£462,824	0	0
' 15,877	0	0
£478,701	0	0
£1,024,384	0	0
£1,503,085	0	0
LIFE DEPARTMENT. I.—Life .Assurance Branch. THE large proportion of NINE - TENTHS of the PROFITS .is divided among the Policyholders on the Participating Scale every five years, and is allocated not only on the sums assured,,but a^so on'the.previous additions.
The last Division of Profits was made as at 31st December 1880, when there was declared a Bonus of £1:7: 6 per cent per a-Tinnm.
If taken as a percentage on tlie original sums in the Policies, this Bonus is equivalent to an addition of from £2 :11:4 per cent per annum on the oldest Policies, to £1:7:6 per cent on those now for the first time entitled to participate.
II.—Annuity Branch. ANNUITIES, Immediate, Contingent, or Deferred, are granted on favourable terms.
FIRE DEPARTMENT,
The Company INSURES against FIRE almost every description of .Property," at Home or Abroad, at the lowest rates of Premium corresponding to the Risk.
The Policies of this Corporation now extend to cover Loss or Damage by Lightning to the "property insured, whether set on fire thereby or not.
Every Information may be Juatl at the 0,hief Offices, Br&nches, or Agencies.
CHIEF f EDINBURGH	64 Pbinces Street.
OFFICES J LONDON	01 TfiEEADNEEDMi STINSURANCE.
109
MUTUAL ASSURANCE with MODERATE PREMIUMS. --------- ' '-
Scottish Provident Institution
(GEgtafcltispJ 1837.)
In this society ^one-are combined: th« advantages of Mutual Assurance with Moderate Premium^.
A Policy for £1200 to £1250 may, at most ages, be had for the premium generally charged, with profits, for £1000 ; while under the equitable system of division large additions may be expected to the Policies of those who participate.
The WHOLE PROFITS go to the Policyholders, on a system at once safe and equitable,—no share being given to those by whose early death there is a loss;
The Fifth Septennial Investigation showed a SUE PLUS of £624,473, which, after reserving one-third (£208,158) for future division, was divided among 6662 Policies entitled to partiaipate. Policies of £1000 sharing a first time were increased to sums varying from £1180 to £1300 or more. Other Policies were raised to £1400, £1500, and upwards. A few of the early Policies have been doubled.
Examples of Annual Premiums for £100 at Death (with Profits).
Age.	26	80	36	40	46	60
Payable during Life Limited to 21 Payments	£1 18 0 2 12 6	£2 10 2 15 4	£2 6 10 3 0 2,	£2 14 9 3 7 5	£3 5 9 3 17 6	£4 17 4 12 1
Extracts from REPORT of Business 188T. New Assurances effected.	£1,063,109
Total Receipts in year were	£579,032
Realised Funds at close of year .	£4,201,930
The Increase during the year being- £288,678.
The Accumulated Fund has increased in the last nine years by upwards of Two Millions ; and it may be noted that of a hundred Offices not more than four in the Kingdom (all of much longer standing) have as large a Fund.
REPORTS with Statement of Pbinciples may be had omapplication^.
JAMES WATSON- Manager.
Edinburgh, May 1882.110
INSURANCE.
SCOTTISH WIDOWS' FUND
AS REGARDS
Security, Profit, and Liberal Conditions, the Society's Policies are	,
Documents of the Highest Value,
and have nut with such acceptance, that the general operations of the Society have long exceeded in magnitude those of every other Office in the country, The following statements indicate:—
I.—The Secure & Profitable character of the Business.
The Profit, or excess of Assets over Liabilities, for the seven Years ending 31st December 1880, according to Valuation on the secure basis of the Actuaries' 3J per cent Experience Tables, amounted to no less than .£1,347,755, which yielded the following
Exceptionally large Reversionary Bonuses.
On Original Sums Assured, from £i : 14s. to £3 :17 :5 per cent per annum, or, taken on the Premiums paid during the Seven Years, from ^58^ to £133 per cent per annum. (Age at Entry 35.)
H.—The Liberality of the Conditions.
Surrender Values, or, in lieu thereof,' Paid-up Policies,' free of future Premiums, allowed at any time; Loans granted within a small margin of the Surrender Value; Extensive Foreign Travel and Residence free of charge from the first; Most Policies absolutely Indefeasible and Whole-World after first five years.
IIL—The Magnitude of the Transactions. Policies in Force £25,000,000 I Accumulated Funds £7,700,000 Claims Paid . . £12,500,000 I Annual Revenue	£980,000
Average Annual New Business last Seven Years £1,250,000.
APPLICATIONS FOR POLICIES, securing all the privileges of Membership, may be made at any of the Society's Offices, or'Agencies ifi connection therewith.
HEAD OFFICE: 9 ST. ANDREW SQUARE, EDINBURGH.
London, 28 Cornhill, E.C. West End Agency, 49 Pall Mali..
Dublin, 41 Westmoreland Street. Glasgow, 114 West George St. Manchester, Albert Square. Liverpool, 48 Castle Street. Birmingham, 12 Bennett's Hill.
Leeds, 21 Park Row. Bristol, 40 Corn Street. Belfast, 2 High Street. Newcastle, 12 Grey Street. Norwich, 59 Prince of Wales Road.
HEAD OFFICE,	AT. H. TURNBULL, Manager.
9 St. Andrew Square, Edinburgh,	j j p ANDERSON, Secretary.MISCELLANEOUS.	Ill
-1 NOTICE.
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INBDRANGB.
m COMMERCIAL UNION ASSURANCE COMPANY
FIRE—LIFE—MARINE.
Capital fully Subscribed	£2,500,000
„ Paid up..........£250,OOD
Life Fluids in Specjal Trust for Life Policyholders } £733 oof)
exceed
Total Annual Premium Income exceeds
J
£UQ50,00b
CHIEF OFFICES: 19 & 20 CORNHILL, LONDON, 'E.C. WEST END OFFICE: 8■ PALL MALL, LONDON, S.W.:
D I R ECTOR S.
W. Reierson ATbuthnot.Esq. Robert Barclay, Esq. (Barclay, Bfevan, & Oo.)
W. Miftclleton Campbell, Esq. (Bosanquet,
Curtis, & Co.) Jeremiah Colman, Esq. (J. <Sc J. Column.) R. C. Fergusson, Esq. Alfred Giles, Esq., 2" Great George St., S.W. Edmund S. Hanbury, Esq. (Trnman,
Hanbury, & Co.) Frederick W. Han-is, Esq. (Harris & Dixon.)
John Holms, Esq., M.P. (Wm. Holms & Brothers.)
F. Larkworthy, Esq. .Bank of New Zealand.

Cliarles J. Leaf, Esq. (Le^ Sons, & Co.) William Leask, Esq,, 14 Essrtcheap; E. A. Mavrogordato, Esqf"'-The Right Hon. A. J. Mimdella, M.P. General Sir H. W. Norman, K.C.B. Sir Henry W. Peek, Bart., M.P. (Peek
Brothers <fc Co.) P. P. Rodocanachi, Esq. (P. P. Rodo-
canachi <fe Co.) Thos. Russell, Esq., C.M.G. P. G. Sechiari, Esq. (Sechiari, Bros. & Co.) Andrew R. Scoble, Esq., Q.C. Alexander Sim, Esq. (Churchill & Sim). John P. Tate, Esq.
Henry Trower, Esq. (Trower & Lawson.)
Secretary.—Samuel J. Pipkin.
FIRE DEPARTMENT. Manager.—D. Marshall Lang. Undoubted Security.	Moderate Rates.
Prompt and Liberal Settlements.
LIFE DEPARTMENT. Actuary.—T. E. Young^B.A. The Life Funds invested in the names of Special Trustees. The Assured wholly free from liability.
The Expenses of Management, limited by Deed of Settlement. Fixed Minimum Surrender Values guaranteed. Claims paid one month after proof of death.
New Liberal Conditions. Full particulars are contained in the Book Prospectus, a copy of which will be forwarded on application.
MARINE DEPARTMENT.
Underwriter.—J. Carr Saunders. Bates for Marine Risks on application to the Underwriter.BLACK'S GUIDE-BOOKS
Alton Towers and Dovedale, Is Belfast and Giant's Causeway, Is Brighton, Is Buxton, Is
Channel Islands (Jersey, Guernsey, Alderney), 3s 0d
Cheltenham and Bath, Is
Cornwall (and Scilly Isles), 2s 6d
Derbyshire (Buxton, Matlock, Chats-worth), 2s 0d
Devonshire (Torquay, Plymouth, Exeter), 2s 6d
Dorsetshire (Swanage, Weymouth, &c.), Is 6d
Dorset, Devon, and Cornwall (in 1 vol.)., 5s
Dublin and Wicklow, Is
Edinburgh and Environs, Is
England (with Plans of Towns), 10s 6d
English Lakes (Flintoft's & Foster's Illustrations), 3s 6d
Cheap Edition, Is Galway, Connemara, and the Shannon, Is Glasgow and Environs, Is Gloucester (Bristol and Cheltenham), 2s 6d Guernsey (St. Peter Port, &c.), Is.Date Issued
MJttlflf		
		Drawn &.Engrave& "by
Buxton
Chesterfield
Crewe
iia
Published "by A. Black,Edmburga.
LINCOLNBlack's G-uide-Books—continued.
w t?	H
YALE UNIVERSITY LIBRARY
From the Library of President and Mrs. Arthur Twining Hadley
The gift of their children Mrs. Nicholas Mosely Morris Hadley, '16 Hamilton Hadley, '19
Do. South, 2s 6d Warwickshire (Birm., Leamington, Stratford), 2s 6d Where shall we Go ? (Watering-places) 2s 6d; cloth 3s Yorkshire (with Map), 5sCaidr&rb. 6'i
Itbum Try ihe~se
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