EDITED BY £ A.FREEMAN and W.HUNT | tl 'ORIS BY MONTA G UE B URR O WS3t 37?Historic Towns EDITED BY EDWARD A. FREEMAN, D.C.L. & REV.WILLIAM HUNT, M. A. CINQUE POETSHISTORIC TOWNS. edited by E. A. FREEMAN, D.C.L. and the REV. WILLIAM HUNT, M.A. Crown 8vo. 3s. 6d. each. LONDON. By Rev. W. J. Loftie. With 3 Maps. ' A thoroughly readable book. . . . Will loDg remain the handbook to the history of onr greatest city.'—Athenaeum. EXETER. By E. A. Freeman. With 4 Maps. 'The limitations of Mr. Freeman's method do not affect the goodness of his work within the lines which he has chosen ; and the oddity of his recondite knowledge only adds a pleasant flavour to his pages.'—Saturday Eeview. BRISTOL. By Rev. W. Hunt. With 4 Maps. ' Mr. Hunt's chapters are written with the accuracy and from the research of a scholar; at the same time he is careful never to lose sight of the popular character aimed at by this series of books, and what might in less skilful hands hive been a jejune chronicle becomes a fresh and engaging narrative.' Scotsman. OXFORD. By Rev. C. W. Boase. With 2 Maps. ration visitor would do well to purchase.'—Oxford Review. 'A most careful, interesting, and trustworthy book, which every Oxford man and every Commemo- COLCHESTER. By Rev. E. L. Cutts. With 4 Maps. 'We congratulate Mr. Cntts on having written such an exhaustive CINQUE PORTS. By Montagu Burrows. With 4 Maps. account of the history of the town.' Notes and Queries, London: LONGMANS, GREEN, & CO.:ord Harlot iHatfielcl RTFORD LLMSFJ Mai don RXxo^h. ILcmifar&r oath en d Barking foolwicYi\ Month o£ the River Thames Wunbl 'hurst ?arninghcmv Jtichborouffh' The Downs K/lyminge C.Grutnez tbuxrn MAP OF THE CINQUE PORTS AND THEIR MEMBERS London,: JjongTruvrus & Co.Historic Towns CINQUE PORTS BY MONTAGU BUKEOWS C.iptnin R.N.; C'Mchele Professor of Modern History in the University of Oxford LONDON LONGMANS, GREEN, AND CO. AND NEW YORK : 15 EAST 1C«> STREET 1888 All rights reservedPRINTED BY SPOTTISWOODE AND CO., NEW-STREET SQUARE LONDONPREFACE. Tha.t the history of the Cinque Ports, which forms no small part of the history of England, should never yet have been written, may be attributed to the depressed condition into which the Ports fell in the fifteenth and sixteenth centuries. Just at the period when historical literature was taking shape the palsy of decay was creeping over their once vigorous life; their chief inhabitants migrated to London and other seats of commerce more prosperous than their own; their older buildings fell to ruin and disappeared; their ancient records were neglected. Nevertheless the modern inquirer has reason to be grateful for good work done by a learned collector of charters like Mr. Jeake, in the seventeenth, and an able compiler from local records like Mr. Boys, of Sandwich, in the eighteenth, century. Later writers, like Lyon at Dover, Holloway at Rye, Cooper at Winchel-sea, and Cole at Hastings, have followed in their footsteps; but the recent labours of the Historical Commissioners, the writers of the Rolls Series, and the Members of Archaeological Societies, have conferred advantages quite unknown to earlier times. To the Lord Warden, Barons, and other inhabitants of the Cinque Ports and their ' Members' the followingvi The Cinque Ports pages are offered with all respect. They will perceive that a general history of so large a subject can only, within the limited space allotted to these ' Historic Towns,' be a sketch, of which the central idea must of course be to depict the infancy and early triumphs of the British Navy, as practically represented by the Cinque Ports. To this collective history all details have had to be strictly subordinated; but it may be hoped that even a sketch will be the means of eliciting a desire for a complete work. If such a book \Vere ever written, it should not only supply details, but produce the grounds for many conclusions on disputed points which can here be only summarily stated, perhaps also give the original documents, which lose some of their value by translation, and present some specimens of the vigorous English in which the Barons were wont to express themselves. It would be hard to find any body of men who more faithfully represented from age to age the English character as well as its language. Even for this book it has been necessary not only to visit the several towns, but to examine portions of their records. To the guardians of these treasures who have kindly afforded access to them as well as valuable information, and to other learned correspondents who have helped to clear up the difficulties inherent in a history rendered obscure by its very antiquity, the hearty thanks of the writer are here gratefully rendered.CONTENTS. CHAPTER I. FAGK Introductory . . 1 CHAPTER II. PHYSICAL CHANGES AT THE CINQUE PORTS. The ' Law of Eastward Drift'—Changes'on the Hastings coast— at Romney Marsh—on the Wantsum.....4 CHAPTER III. THE EARLY HISTORY OP THE CINQUE PORTS. The Roman Stations—Teutonic origin of the Ports—Characteristics of each—The Danish element—Edward the Confessor and his Charter—Population ... .22 CHAPTER IV. THE CINQUE PORTS UNDER THE NORMAN AND ANGEVIN KINGS. The Conqueror's organization—The Charters of Henry IT., Richard I. and John—Revival of the Ports—Winchelsea and Rye—Court of Shepway—Custumals—Title of • baron' —Norman remaios...... . . .62 CHAPTER V. THE CINQUE PORTS AT THEIR PRIME. ' The Royal Navy of the Cinque Ports'—The Members or Limbs —The King's ships—Battle of Dover Straits—Henry III. and the Ports—The Ports join Simon de Montfort—The two Win-chelseas—The Navy of the Ports and the Welsh war—Charter of Edward I.—Battle of St. Mahe—French attack Hythe andviii The Cinque Ports PAGR Dover—The Yarmouth feud—The Scottish war—Edward I. settles the system of the Ports —Admirals—' Sovereignty of the Seas '..........85 CHAPTER VI. decline op the cinque ports. The Cinque Port Navy under Edward II. and Edward III.— Battle of Sluys—Siege of 'Calais—Lespagnols-sur-Mer— English disasters—Failure of French armament—The Ports under the influence of the Earl of Warwick—Decay of harbours—Representation in Parliament . , . . .134 CHAPTER VII. the cinque port institutions at work. The Yarmouth Fair—The Cinque Port Bailiffs at Yarmouth— Close of the guardianship—The Brodhull, Brotherhood, and Guestling—The common ' Purse '—The ' Court of Shepway' at Dover—Changes of character in the Wardenship . . 166 CHAPTER VIII. modern history of the cinque ports and the two ancient towns . . . .193 CHAPTER IX. THE MEMBERS OF THE CINQUE PORTS . . 224 INDEX . . . 225 MAPS. The Cinque Poets and their Members . . Frontispiece The Romney Marshes, previous to the Fourteenth Century ......To face p. 16 The Rutupian Ports, the ancient course of the wantsuh, and the present course of the river stour (eighteenth century) „ 20 Map of the coast of East Sussex (1616) . „ 195THE CINQUE POETS. CHAPTER I. introductory. They that bear The cloth of honour over her are four Barons Of the Cinque Ports. Shakespeare : Henry VIII. Hastings, Sandwich, Dover, Romney, Hythe—this is the order in which the Cinque Ports were ranked in the times when they formed a flourishing and important confederation. Winchelsea and Rye were added to these five so soon after the Norman Conquest, and were such an important addition, that they were soon identified with the rest in every respect. As however the first name had been too firmly rooted to be displaced, the new comers were officially known as 'the two Ancient Towns.' When therefore we wish to speak of this famous corporation with strict accuracy we say, ' The five Cinque Ports and two Ancient Towns.' The repetition of the number 1 five' in this title probably never struck people so much as we might expect, since it very soon came to be merely a technical term, the French form of the word being pronounced, and very B2 The Cinque Ports often spelt ' Synke' or ' Sinke,' just as if it was the English ' Sink;' and as the idea of number came to be merged in that of franchises and public duties, the name of ' Cinque Port' was applied promiscuously to all the ' Members' or ' Limbs' which from time to time were taken up by and associated with the seven Head-Ports. These Members are divided into two distinct bodies, holding different positions in the Confederacy, the Corporate and the non-Corporate Members. The difference between the Cinque Ports and the rest of the English coast towns is plainly indicated by mediaeval custom, since they were generally spoken of collectively as ' The Ports.' This in any literal sense wo aid be now impossible. Every one of them has c suffered a sea-change'— some to the point of dissolution. Hence we are obliged to begin with the physical forces which have produced these effects, merely prefacing the account with the remark that, if any excuse is required for lingering upon the threshold of our subject, it may be found in its absolute singularity in the world's history. Neither ancient, mediasval, nor modern times, to use the familiar divisions, have afforded a parallel. The only approach to one is the career of the Hanse Towns; but, though somewhat similar features may be traced in the two confederations of fishermen and traders formed for the guardianship of the seas, each in the course of time receiving a military organization, and compacted by common laws and assemblies, yet the distinction between them is so great as to be one of kind rather than of degree. The roots of the society with which we are concerned are intertwined with those which formed theIntroductory 3 origin of the English people; we are about to trace their development into a great and powerful corporation charged with the control of a principal industry and food-supply of that people, the herring-fishery, trusted with the defence of the English shores and the passage to the Continent, gradually formed into a local Royal Navy and performing the most brilliant service, chartered by each Sovereign in turn with unrivalled privileges, honoured with the highest place above all others at Coronations, and retaining a titular rank, confined to themselves, which is not even yet obsolete. This Confederation has enjoyed the singular felicity of having taken on the one hand a leading part in establishing the constitutional liberties of England, and on the other of having supplied the chief weapon used by its kings in the consolidation of its territory and the restoration of its sovereignty in the Narrow Seas. It may also be fairly called the parent and exemplar of the Royal Navy itself. Though fallen into decay and ruined in the outpost service of the nation, its declining forces aroused themselves for one last gallant effort against the Spanish Armada. That may be considered its euthanasia. It is pleasant, however, to be able to record not only past glories, but the singular rejuvenescence in our own times of many portions of the ancient stock. In the following pages this process will be traced in various directions : in none is it more noteworthy than in the general revival of interest in local documents, and the care bestowed on their orderly preservation. b 24 The Cinque Ports CHAPTER II. physical changes at the cinque ports. The ' Law of Eastward Drift'— Changes on the Hastings coast—at Romney Marsh—on the Wantsum. The South-eastern shores of England have been more altered in form, more cut away in projecting parts, and more filled up in the recesses, than any others in the British Isles. This effect has been produced by the constant action of the winds and tides upon the materials within their reach, and with a remarkable uniformity on those portions of the coast which face the South-west. The projecting edges are smoothed away in lines from North-west to South-east as if cut straight by some mighty instrument; and the visitor, following the coast up Channel, will observe masses of shingle lining those shores with a regularity of which the least intelligent cannot but require an explanation. In the embayed portions of coast, and after he has passed the South Foreland, he will find sand instead of shingle. Though he may possess no special knowledge of the geological features of the country, he will see at once that these substances are heaped up by some potent agency of nature upon strata of a different kind from themselves.Physical Changes 5 Even as far west as the coast of Dorsetshire we have a conspicuous instance in Chesil Beach, one of the best known wonders of England; the projecting coast-lines of Sussex, ending with the ever-growing shingle-pro-montory of Dungeness over the border, possess much the same character as Chesil Beach; and all along the coast of Kent up to the South Foreland, vast accumulations of shingle were heaped up before Dungeness began to stop the process, and gradually became, by appropriating the drift, what it is now. Incessantly travelling from West to East, accelerated every mile by the narrowing space through which they have to make their way, and at length rushing along at full speed as from the neck of a bottle, these masses of shingle and sand, swept along by wind and tide, are the actual agents, conjointly with the deposits of rivers, of the changes which have filled up the Cinque Ports, and affected all the neighbouring coasts. The wind and tide produce these effects in the Eastern portion of the British Channel in a manner so uniform, that their action may be described as the result of a natural law. Let it be called ' The Law of Eastward Drift.' It may be thus defined. Two forces, one obtained by means of the flood tide, and the other through the strength and prevalence of south-west winds for three-quarters of the year, united and working together at all favourable times, take up the moveable substances in the bed of the Channel, and scatter them upon projecting obstacles from West to East. Change produces change; and in the course of ages the whole coast is transformed. It is possible that this effect is produced by the mere force of the south-west gales,6 The Cinque Ports acting during the flood tide, but a further reason may be assigned for the regularity of this Eastward Drift. The tidal wave from the Atlantic, on its way to traverse the North Sea and the Baltic, finds its progress arrested at each of the south-west points of England and Ireland. It divides into three branches, of which we may here neglect the middle one, since, passing up St. George's Channel, it rejoins and is absorbed in the main stream which has been sweeping round the west coast of Ireland. Part of this united wave, after it has travelled round the coast of Scotland and expanded over the North Sea on its way to the South and East, arrives in 20 hours at the Straits of Dover. There it meets the third stream, which has come directly up Channel, and arrived at the Straits in the course of 12 hours. As water must find its own level, these opposing streams, which have hitherto been running undisturbed, are forced, when they meet, to obtain that level with great rapidity. Hence the extraordinary variety of currents, eddies, and times of high water at different places in the same neighbourhood. Every one of these apparent irregularities is of course attributable to some special action of the general law that the same quantity of water has to pass and repass through the Straits twice in every 24 hours. One such anomaly is that, under certain conditions so frequently occurring that it is generally stated as an acknowledged fact, the flood tide makes from South-west to North-east in a shorter time than the ebb which makes in the opposite direction. To do its allotted work the flood must therefore move just so much faster than the ebb as the allotted time for doing it is shorter.Physical Changes 7 We can then understand how it is that, under ordinary circumstances, wind and tide work out the ' Law of Eastward Drift.' Twice in every 24 hours the south-west winds, if strong enough, find their opportunity. The swift flood has moved and slightly lifted the substances which pave the bed of the sea; the waves, when sufficiently powerful, take them up and carry them along. On the other hand the more languid ebb tide moves these substances less, and the waves which might drive them to the West are less often raised, and very seldom with anything like the same effect, since the south-west winds blow on, and the opposite winds off, the shore. Hence the formation of the shingle beaches and the shoals of sand, the latter of which substances is held longer in suspension and carried further than the former. The accumulation of shingle is directly due to the violent action above described; that of sand to its more indirect effects. Having been stirred up by storms, the sand settles down in places where eddies are produced by the meeting of tides and the slackening of their pace. This is especially marked at the Goodwin Sands, at Sandwich, and on the coasts of Belgium and Holland. Whence came these vast stores of material ? In this place it is enough to say that they are mainly traceable to two sources, the ancient quaternary formations called ' old sea-beaches,' of which our shores have been denuded in past times by the action of winds and waves upon the softer strata; and secondly, in more modern times, to the washing down of gravel from the Sussex valleys to the sea. From the constant attrition of8 The Cinque Ports this gravel great quantities of sand are added to that which covers the bed of the Channel in many places. It is obvious to remark in reference to these coast-changes that they can hardly but vitiate the calculations which have been held to decide the place of Caesar's landing in the Cinque Port districts. Not only may the depth of the Channel have largely varied, but the space over which the tides travel must be at least two miles wider than it was some 2,000 years ago, and therefore the point of meeting of the North and South tide-streams cannot possibly be exactly the same; yet this is the assumption under which all these calculations have been made. The operation of the ' Law of Eastward Drift' must be traced first at Hastings and its immediate neighbourhood ; secondly at Winchelsea, Rye, Romney, and Lydd, grouped as they are under the system of Romney Marsh,—with which may be taken Hythe, Folkestone, Dover, Walmer, and Deal; and lastly at Sandwich and the towns affected by the river-system of the estuary which once divided the Isle of Thanet from the rest of Kent. Not one of them has escaped. All have been separated from the element to which they owed their existence, and if not deserted by the routes of commerce quite so completely as the c Dead Cities of the Zuyder Zee,' some of them have fared worse. Even Dover offers no real exception to the operation of the law, for it has only held its own by the aid of a vast expenditure of the national funds. Hastings, situated just where the narrowing of the Channel produces a violent current, perceptible enough in the hurry-scurry of the tides along the ' Races ' ofPhysical Changes 9 Alderney and Portland, was the first of the Ports to feel the effect of the Eastward Drift, cutting away the cliffs each year and filling up the havens. The processes can be traced with something like certainty. The ancient harbour once occupied the site of what is now called ' Priory Valley.' The rocks which line the coast well out to sea mark the old shore-line. The old town which once flourished at the harbour mouth was, like the first Winchelsea, submerged from the effect of storms and the want of sea embankments. Accumulating shingle, left uncontrolled, forced its way across the entrance, choking the flow of the Priory Brook; and then the silting-up process, always going on, became unchecked. The circuitous roads running round the old bed of the harbour indicate its gradual change from water to marsh, and from marsh to dry land; while outside of it, running along the coast-line, is found the shingle beach which wrought the change, and now forms the foundation of parades and terraces. The same fate in time overtook the haven formed by the Bourne between the East and West Hills, as well as the havens of Seaford, Pevensey, and the other Sussex ports which once owned Hastings as mistress. No dates, no records of these changes remain, but history comes to the aid of geography, and in the rise of Winchelsea and Rye, closely bound up with the decline of Hastings, we read that these effects had begun to show themselves in the very century of the Norman Conquest. Even modern records fail to tell us of the disappearance of an island, a mile and a half long, which extended along the coast of St. Leonard's, but which appears in Norden's map of the seventeenth century.10 The Cinque Ports Turning to the more complex phenomena of the Romney Marsh system, it must be observed that there was at one time, we cannot doubt, an almost continuous and even line of beach from Fairlight Point, by way of Lydd, to the high land of Shorncliffe, inside which the sea penetrated, and through which rivers made their way, at points afterwards known as Romney and Hythe,—perhaps also at Rye. Within this line of beach was the great tidal estuary which the Romans found on their arrival and called the ' Limen.' This inland sea extended over the whole of what is now designated in a general way as Romney Marsh, but which is, properly speaking, an aggregate of marshes known by different names. Following the line of high land running round from Shorncliffe to the West, it penetrated into the Rother, Tillington, and Brede valleys. Above it rose on the West the Isle of Oxney, the island-rock on which Rye was afterwards built, and the promontory of Iham, crowned in later days by the second Winchelsea. To the eastward of those sites rose the Isle of Romney and the long low shore of Lydd. The estuary was a shallow basin,- not unlike that of Arcachon, near Bordeaux, which had once been deep, but the bed of which had been gradually raised during the course of ages by layer upon layer of muddy deposit washed in by the tides from the soft tertiary strata of the neighbourhood. These layers have been found to extend to a depth of fifty or more feet, and thus account for the extraordinary fertility of the marsh lands. All this time the Eastward Drift had been forming, unimpeded by any such promontory as Dungeness is now, the extensive beaches of Dymchurch, Hythe, Dover3Physical Changes ii "Walmer, Deal and the rest, which had not however, by the time of the Romans, yet received anything like their full contribution of shingle. The passages into this shallow inland sea were kept clear by the vast mass of water rushing in and out at every tide, much as we may now see on a smaller scale at Portsmouth, and by the scouring outflow of many considerable streams, draining the eastern side of Andred Forest. At the Portus Lemanis formed by the chief of these streams, the Limene, the Romans established the military station Lemanse, and defended it by the castrum the ruins of which are known by the name of Stutfall Castle. It has been thought that, even before the Roman conquest of Britain, the inland sea had been so much filled up that the Britons had themselves made great progress in what was called by the English settlers ' inniDg ' the marsh, or damming out the tides by embankments. At any rate a great change took place during the Roman occupation of the island. The shingle was driven in by south-east winds upon the north-east part of the marsh, closing up the passage between it and the Portus Lemanis, and it thus excluded the tides from the eastern end of the basin, as well as blocked out the river Limene. This river would seem to have been already diverted from its course to some extent by the erection of the famous Rhee Wall, which stretched from Appledore to Romney, comprising a channel and embankments from 80 to 100 feet wide, and it now altogether took its course through this channel. Though a surface of 22,000 acres was thus completely drained and protected from the tides, it was still a de-12 The Cinque Ports pressed basin, at a level several feet below the sea ; and such of course it has remained. Hence the incessant vigilance, hence the intricate organization of labour, which, under the ' lords of Romney Marsh,' have ever since been found necessary for its preservation. But the work was also the cause of the formation of a new port. The low island on which Romney afterwards stood now became united to the reclaimed land on its northeastern side, while the flow of the new stream and the narrowing of the estuary deepened its haven, and made it the fine harbour which, if antiquaries are not mistaken, was named Novus Portus by the Romans. At any rate it is so marked—Katvos Ai^i-qv—in the earliest edition of Ptolemy's maps. No remains of the Romans have been found at Romney, but abundant evidence of their having settled in great numbers at Dymchurch, halfway between the Old and New Ports, has of late years been discovered in the form of very extensive potteries. This proves how secure a barrier the beach offered at that time against the sea, and suggests that extensive cultivation of the reclaimed marsh had already taken place before the fifth century. It was necessary to say as much as this about the early condition of Romney Marsh ; for it was into this inheritance that the Teutonic settlers stepped. They had begun to arrive even before the Romans deserted Britain, and took very naturally to havens and marshy districts which resembled their own homes and suited their nautical habits. Romney, Lydd, and Hudanfleot, afterwards called West Hythe (which last port soon superseded Lemange, or Lympne), became fishing stations, while the marsh-lands generally were occupied by aPhysical Changes 13 population called from the district the Merscwara, or marsh-men; and as their lands comprised a large proportion of Kent (the Andred Weald not being yet settled) they grew to be an important and almost independent people. The three ports above mentioned became the natural outlets for these marshmen, who were united by a common origin, common pursuits, and a common distinction from the rest of Kent; but they were all alike, portsmen as well as marshmen, in too rude a stage of civilisation to undertake any further' inning ' of marshes. What they found sufficed. It was reserved for the great lords of the district, the archbishops of Canterbury, as heads of the convent of Christ Church, to continue, after an interval of several centuries, the work of the Romans. How came it that the task fell to them, first in the eighth, and afterwards in the twelfth and thirteenth centuries? The lordship over the Marsh districts exercised by the convent probably began at a much earlier date than we can obtain by records; for it was certainly connected with the great number of monastic institutions planted along the coast of Kent by the royal House after its conversion, one after another of which were passed over to the government of Christ Church. Under the royal system Canterbury was deliberately intended to be the centre of civilization as well as of Christianity for the Kentish people. Thus to the archbishops of Canterbury were granted large estates, such as that of Lyminge; and to the abbey of St. Augustine, just outside that city, was entrusted a considerable extent of land in these parts, but, as it happened, not in connexion with places which became the Head Cinque Ports.14 The Cinque Ports A large part of the Isle of Thanet was especially their charge. Eadbriht's Charter of 741 runs thus :— I, Eadbriht, King, by surname Eating, for the salvation of my soul grant to the Church of Christ in Canterbury the fishery at the mouth of the River Limene, and the part of the land in which is situated the Vill of St. Martin [afterwards R/omney], with the houses of the fishermen and the fourth part of a ploughland around that place, and pasture for 150 beasts near the marsh which is called Bisceopeswic [in Lydd] as far as Rhip Wood and the borders of South Saxony [Sussex]. Offa also in 774, having annexed Kent, granted to Jaenberht, Archbishop of Canterbury, three plough-lands or sulings of Merscware land, called Hlidum [Lydd], from Dengemarsh to a certain stone, and, in the same year, part of the marsh-land at the same place to the monks of Christ Church at Canterbury. These charters show that a change had taken place which we can now identify with the growth of Dungeness towards the sea. That projection of the coast had begun to attract the shingle thrown up by the Eastward Drift, and to fill up with fresh ' fulls,' or ridges, from its own superfluous acquisitions, the Lydd marshes. The reclamations had been made or assisted by the only body which could as yet find funds and labour, the archbishop and his monks, and to them were the new lands made over. The ' Bisceopeswic' had already been established. Lydd however was still surrounded by sea on the North and East, and in 893 the piratical Danes made their way past it up to Appledore with a fleet of 250 vessels. The name of the Limene was still, we observe, surviving in the eighth century, but its waters were now mingledPhysical Changes 15 with those of the Rother which practically absorbed it, and the bed of the united streams still admitted the tides at Romney Haven sufficiently to float the galleys of the vikings far inland. Under the lordship of Christ Church, or rather of the archbishop, its abbot, came an accession of inhabitants to the newly reclaimed districts, of which Romney, partly included in the archbishop's estate of Lyminge, became the chief, and Lydd the secondary, centre. It was, however, some centuries before the name given by the monks to the town which grew up round the Oratory of St. Martin was completely lost in the old British name which had clung to the spot from the first. Rumenal, Romenel, and Romney are, in fact, different varieties of termination to the root-word Ruim or Rum, a marsh. The further ' inning' of marshes was due to Archbishop Thomas. ' St. Thomas' Innings,' adjoining the middle part of Rhee Wall, led the way, and was followed by those of Archbishops Baldwin, Boniface, and Peckham, and by some smaller works: but this process could not have been effective except under the operation of a law affecting inland tidal districts, which is practically almost as definite as that of the ' Eastward Drift,' and of much wider application. Just in proportion as tidal marshes are reclaimed and the area covered by the tide thus diminished, so more and more marsh offers itself for reclamation, and the port by which the tides enter becomes, for want of the former large volume of the scouring element, more and more choked up. The Roman works led to the ' innings' of the archbishops, and those to the destruction of Romney Harbour. It may be noticed here that when Archbishop Thomas16 The Cinque Ports found himself obliged to fly the kingdom he naturally-turned to the place with which he had been so much concerned, and embarked from Romney. Twice baffled, he gave up the attempt; and on his second flight crossed the sea from Sandwich. The immediate result of this progressive inning was to drive the Rother to take a sweep round the new land and enter Romney Port by a circuitous channel as shown (approximately) in the accompanying map. Such was the condition under which the central Cinque Port was working at the time when its prosperity was most marked and as yet unshaken. No further progress was made in reclaiming marshes till the occurrence of that great convulsion of the elements which was remarked by all the chroniclers in 1287. This tremendous incursion of the sea submerged Winchelsea (G-went-chesel-ey, the shingle isle on the level) and Bromehill, broke up the sandbanks on which they stood, and bringing the full force of the waves to bear upon the interior of the estuary, hurled great masses of debris upon the artificial course of the Rother, thus changing it to the more natural one which it still follows on its passage to the sea by Rye, and damming out the tides from a large portion of the already shrunken lagoon. With the loss of the river, Romney began to lose its fine harbour; but it was the process of inning the marshes west of Rhee Wall which gradually reduced the volume of the tides so much that their scouring power was no longer available to keep the mouth of the harbour open. Capital and labour not being any longer in the peculiar power of the archbishops, Walland (Wall's end) and Guildford Marshes were gradually taken in hand byAldington 8.G 8.8 AIL Romney MarshProper was reclaimed, at once by erection, ofPJvee Walt from,Appledare to H/mmey, but,~by whom, the work, was ease cubed, is-10.0 vrvcertaitv. Some refer it to the Rilgee. of 70 ancient;Britain, Who brought the art, of em-bcmking from, the Netherlands, others gi*re the credit to the Romans. The Marsh, was certain, 3'6 -by-urvder cuJti^aiioninihe time of the 6.0 Ramans, cls Roman,remains are found, ' \ extensively over the g Q / Whole area,. ' ^ Ay. .0 r & l.o ^ S is Rother V^ll Guildeford Marsh The figures denote the ciepdv(itvfeet)of the present surface below High WaterMar (Medium, Spring Tides) N.B. The Innings beyond, the limits of the Marshes are tvo t> noticed<. (From,Zewin!s Iivras-Ltm, of JBri±airv by JuJtius Caesar, 1862.) *Udimore London,: Longmans &. Co. Edsrt-Wdlar. Utfc. Bodiam^ .Newenden+ Eairligh.t MAP OF :9wAMAMm AST© ^iJTLBMFOMB JKARSHES* shewintf what Lands hadheen Inn ed previous to the 14^ Century.Physical Changes 17 other landowners; but the process was not absolutely-complete till 1661. Thus Romney Haven became dryland. Rye on the other hand gained a fuller supply of river-flow by the change ; Lydd, saved by Dungeness as by a breakwater, was rather better off for a time than it had previously been; and Winchelsea was replanted on a better site. The history we are about to trace was entirely governed by these physical changes. The subsequent history of Rye itself remarkably illustrates that of Romney Marsh, for the inning of its surrounding marshes in the eighteenth century has equally destroyed the tidal backwater which used to keep its channel open to the sea. The same thing had happened long before at the second Winchelsea, where Edward I. placed the homeless fugitives from the submerged town in 1287. The neighbouring marshes were drained and embanked by Commission after Commission appointed by the Crown in order to put an end to periodical inundations. In that attempt they were successful; but the town was soon left high and dry, and so it remains. In short, however praiseworthy the effort to prepare tidal marsh-lands for cultivation, the process has hitherto invariably been connected with the destruction of the port through which the tide has had access, and the impoverishment of the towns which depended on those harbours. To decide which of the two evils is the least involves the national question of the usefulness of particular ports, a question just as pressing now as it ever was. In the case of the Cinque Ports no such question was in those early times understood to require solution. The marshes disap- ci8 The Cinque Ports peared first ; people were astonished to find that the harbours followed; but, though bitterly distressed, they were scarcely surprised to discover that the towns shrivelled up, and they learnt in time to resign themselves to their fate. The annual march out to sea of Dungeness, which has been calculated at from 7 to 20 feet, assisted the process of harbour destruction on either side of it. This has probably not been an equable growth, nor can we say when it began; but we can trace its effects. There is no doubt that it helped tq divert the tides from entering Romney harbour by passing the current across the bay of Dym-church; and by checking the Eastward Drift it caused an accumulation of shingle at Rye which counterbalanced the advantage gained by the diversion of the Rother. Further, the increasing projection of the point has interfered in the course of time, as already said, with the travel of shingle along the coast to the North-east, and so much denuded Dymchurch beach that in order to protect Romney Marsh the old wall has had to be rebuilt and greatly enlarged. It is now three miles long, 300 feet broad at the base, 20 at the top, and 20 feet high. Something like a return to the condition of things which obtained 2,000 years ago would be the result of a serious breach in this wall. The evil genius of Dungeness has, however, a brighter aspect. The beach being composed of heaped-up shingle which is capable of forming itself into a steep wall against the force of the sea, deep water is found close by; and it thus affords the shelter of a good roadstead on its two faces, north-east and south-west, for hundreds of vessels which may be seen lying securely at anchor when either windPhysical Changes 19 prevails. If it has helped to destroy harbours, it has provided a substitute. The case of Hythe is more simple than that of the Romney Marsh towns. The harbour, like that of Hastings, has yielded foot by foot to the Eastward Drift of shingle, till what had been water turned to matsh, and then became dry land; while the enemy now, as at Hastings and elsewhere, presents itself in the guise of a benefactor, inviting modern visitors to the sea-side. The long-continued struggle at Dover, to prevent that harbour from sharing the fate of its neighbours, tells the same tale of resistless tides and winds, driving along the materials which grind away the cliffs and choke the outflow of a stream never large enough to offer much, resistance to the obstacle. So also with Walmer, Deal, and the rest; all alike losing in recent times some portions of the beaches which accumulated before the growth of Dunge-ness, and demanding ' groynes ' or barriers running out into the sea in order to prevent absolute denudation. But when we arrive at Sandwich we find ourselves confronted by different and more complicated phenomena, which can only be stated here, and left for elucidation by historical facts as we proceed. For the protection of the southern portion of the passage to London by the Thames the Romans relied upon the fortresses at either end of the Rutupian Channel (famous even in those days for its oysters), Regulbium and Rutupise, afterwards Reculver and Richborough. This channel, called by the English the Wantsum, though it had begun to shrink before the Romans left Britain, afforded for many centuries so fine a passage to London as to be in constant use for ships making their way to c 220 The Cinque Ports the Thames from the southward. Several rivers flowing from the Kentish high-lands and meandering towards Dover Straits by the eastern port, towards the Thames by the northern, maintained Thanet in the character of an island, even when no longer separated by a considerable arm of the sea from Kent. The Stour, though a broad and shallow river, was navigable, and it was at Ebbsfleet, a creek of the estuary used as the landing-place for Thanet, that the Jute invaders, and later on, St. Augustine, first touched our shores. Such a condition of land and water would certainly have lasted longer than it did if the improving hand of civilization had not here again reclaimed the marshes or ' salts,' as they were called, just as at Komney, Rye, and Winchelsea. An archbishop, Cardinal Morton, again set the example; but it must be admitted that in the nature of things the channel could not have been permanently kept open. Meeting the flood tide twice a .day, the rivers would certainly at some time or other have been checked in their flow, and forming innumerable eddies, could not but have deposited alluvial soil in the channel, thereby diminishing the volume of tidal water required to keep it clear. The inning of the ' salts' powerfully aided the process, and the tides were gradually excluded; while at the same time the rivers were also reduced in volume by the clearance of Andred Forest, and were easily bridged. Thus Thanet ceased to be insular, and the towns which had flourished on the Wantsum shrank away with its waning waters. The effect on Stonor and Sandwich was only too palpable. Those places, when Eichborough was deserted by the tides, became the natural ports of the fine bay(RbTtiKLCLL Ptolemaei Kovtlov Ptolemaei f Monktotv St Nicholas S*Lawrence Menftre RjCUTisgaJbe Chistiet Wallen Stourmouth/ greater Stour Burton, Grove G-ursorv RUTUPI^ xRichborough \ Castle Cooper Street 'fheScvteo?]i ^Sandwich// Wuicjluw b Tlxe North, TorehzncL TS sive S andwi Qui et Tritulenfis / X /'/ P OUT US XPepperrwfse //' Exterior || ' ! |! A Map of the S'J the ancient Course of the Want fume | i and the present Course of the River S tour, , \ The white space between.1he Islands of t \ Tharve-b and, the County of Xent-ftrrm&rly \ covered, entirely with water} being new a2L of it dry hxnebas far as ihe Eastern Shore ccbPe-ppernesse. V.........\ ^jrro m jfas teals History of Kervb.) London>: Longmans & Co.Physical Changes 21 at the head of which they stood. The instinct which preferred the closer neighbourhood of the open sea was justified by the prosperity of centuries, but the course of nature could not be arrested. The fatal influx of choking sand may be said to have waited upon the growth of London. As long as its two Kentish outposts were of real importance for that growth, the sea was their obedient vassal, but when the great city had risen beyond the need of such help, by the time that Sandwich had proved its superiority over its rival, and become the chief rendezvous for royal fleets, the Eastward Drift began to produce its ruinous effects. Co-operating with the causes which were acting on the Wantsum, the sand, which was held in suspension by the tides long after they had deposited their burden of shingle, washed more and more into the bay, till in its progress to the Bast the mouth of the Stour, which had been at Sandwich, was driven mile by mile in the same direction as the sand. The river, helplessly yielding to compulsion, having long ago reached the limit of endurance, debouches, after a course of nine miles, under the cliffs of Thanet by Pegwell Bay, and the famous Bay of Sandwich has long become one expanse of sand, which cuts off from the sea by some two miles or more of dreary waste, one of the most interesting towns in England. Yet the place had time to make a figure—no small one—in English history. The dates of these changes, or rather the centuries which measure them, will come out as we proceed. Everything will now fall into its place.CHAPTER III. THE EARLY HISTORY OF THE CINQUE PORTS. The Roman Stations—Teutonic origin of the Ports—Characteristics of each—The Danish element—Edward the' Confessor and his Charter—Population. Most writers upon this subject, amongst whom Camden is perhaps the most important, have been at pains to connect the Cinque Ports by some sort of direct.descent with the five Roman Stations and fortresses which, under the Gomes Littoris Saxonici, guarded the southeastern shores of Britain. These were Regulbium, Rutu-pise, Dubris, Lemanae (supported by Stutfall Castle), and Anderida. Some have gone so far as to identify the Lord Warden of the Cinque Ports with this Comes, or Limencurcha himself, as if the tenure of the offices had been almost continuous, or separated by only a short interval. But while nothing can be more certain than that the Confederation of the Cinque Ports was of Teutonic origin, it must be confessed that there was in an uncritical age more temptation to adopt the Roman theory in this case than in any other. Two considerations stand in the way—the feebleness and unimportance of the Romano-British remnant left after the Teutonic conquest, and the abundant evidence supplied in recent times of the Teutonic parentage of early English muni-Early History 23 cipal institutions; but an historical error which was for ages implicitly believed requires a word or two. The Comes Littoris Saxonici, who shared the administration of Britain with the Comes Britannice and the Bux Britannice, occupied so much smaller a territorial position than his colleagues, that the balance was evidently struck by his great nautical responsibilities. He filled in fact the place of an admiral of Britain, guarding with squadrons of ships the Narrow Seas and adjacent coasts, at first to prevent the Saxons and kindred tribes from invading the land, and in later times to regulate the barbaric settlements which had taken place in spite of his efforts. Besides the above five, three other stations and fortresses facing the German Ocean, of which Brancaster and Garianonum, with Caister, guarded the inlets of the Wash and the Yare, and Othona those of Essex, completed the limits of the charge of the great Count on the North. These eight, flanked on the extreme West by Portus Adurni, at the mouth of the Adur on the^ Sussex shore, were garrisoned by special bodies of troops, who were not changed about with others, doubtless in order that they might acquire and transmit the experience necessary for sea-soldiers. Eutupiae, or, as soma think, Dubris, was the central station. Such, in a few words, was the Roman organization, the result of some centuries of experience. All this passed away, but not as if it had never been. The Teutonic tribes had been long and intimately acquainted with the coast before the Legions were withdrawn, and could not but entertain a feeling of awe and admiration for the remains of civilization which they saw around them. They could not hope to24 The Cinque Ports imitate the mighty fortresses which reminded them of a governing race, the vast drainage works of Romney Marsh, the noble roads, lighthouses and bridges, the adaptation of fine harbours to nautical wants; but they adopted what they found. Traditions remained ; fresh generations of settlers discovered that they had to defend from fresh invaders what they had gained; the idea of succession to Roman power could not but suggest itself to them as it did to the kings of the new nations; their fleets soon came to do nearly the same duty as those of the Roman Count. So much we may concede. We might go back a step further. The Romans themselves established the civilization of Kent upon an eminence already existing; for Ceesar found its inhabitants the most civilized of all the Britons. It was natural that they should take the lead at each fresh advance. We shall understand the Teutonic origin of the Ports as we watch their separate development. Hastings has been pressed into the Roman theory less than the other Ports, since it certainly was not Anderida, and Pevensey, almost as certainly, was; but its harbour and its fine position for defence gave it the preference in the eyes of the invaders, and made it the medieeval representative of the Roman stronghold, while the settlement formed by a portion of their body at Anderida itself, under a new name, the origin of which is unknown, became one of its subordinates. That there had indeed been a Roman camp on the ' East Hill' of Hastings is for many reasons extremely probable. 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