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G PR pC te etd é .. A / bd “| me the Cd AP atten as +e es “tate e! rs Sit a n'y r 4 Ce! o | oe Ca : aed bd * . hn me ee al * A PS OF a &t.*.F.9,4 Mar, Piat Vf ‘if We > en > feteersro re] Oia tees - ee rt a ar id us " rt of yore * ** eee af ; : * A ee + * - - + # ea 4 + a a C 4 ad a + - P ead | lle ae | in + 4 *e§ r Ps a a * + oe + @ »* on a) roe ater tet eis Yo eee ¢ nd Et he tte we ute rh dl 7 ft aeet *y: | he eee are a®," i 7 7) as J * Sed bed ied te oe Ba a a ot ee . 4 ++ # Fie « a ae oe ee ' es tori ee a ee ee sees ee | ** a ed Sino s@ or, *® a) My #6 2 * TARN AND LANGDALE PIKES a he $s * . * ‘* — | litary Pie Oe ot Or oe ie ' ee oe ee | s.+.4 a On = . o +, 6:16 +++ Py Te * 44 + SOK 4 ‘ + ad i 0 Se an | Mi Ps +n @ © * a ae Mt Ee. Sl i lla tin il, A, catia ctl Ait diy cali Die alia lin ie dedi indi citi aes a atlanta ali ~ * __s + Ft | . ‘ , ae 7 eg Se io ce el ln el A a el ee oe ee oe ee ee oe eS od ee eee oe et ee ok kn Ne aeeu. ee eee oe od ot Oe ok aad c a 5 ne Fee + ill See trww 7% i Ph +t Tr + +ig *,.* a aE TYE etre Le tee opera picttginlyin ten . AOA AE - oh per ep ara | THINGS SEEN ON THE ENGLISH LAKES A DESCRIPTION OF THE ENTRANCING SCENERY q OF THE LAKE COUNTRY, ITS FELLS, WATER- FALLS, & MOUNTAIN PEAKS \ peat oat if WOU ny + +‘ « + Pe * ee gt a4 + > A 1 J * phate bet FO + et = omer rh] + 7) * Li | tb we ES + * A rt a) poisisnipbirbetiecel AY u i. J RIT TOS M fle eieitiets ayo? oy W. P. PALMER | FORMERLY EDITOR OF “*THE FELL © ROCK JOURNAL ”’ re ce Shhh bieaiopendebebebee- UTS Fy | . * * os yee oe: a +) ee 7 fi s+ sy 2 et ee eee ok rth PT | A PTA AA Otro tre + sin uttstedeincerieded yi ateett 7 ed bf by aT td a RO phe od’ fy eet PCs Pe Pree atti ot mead Fhe? 7 +4 es i +\4:0 6 4 4°) *.*) i a. ee oa Peete ae or et eRe IE CTC Mtr WITH ILLUSTRATIONS €&) MAPS eR —— o,9,° 7,73 ep eay @ 4 Ca ‘ et * a Ty ty° wry e+. & + & #)e @)4 me tee io ae bi Roe RRR eH yO ; i Stott otd“e'ese.e RRR ICE Tere re aie.tate ree eit stele Hun phaleleteebeebehvieteletefabetntt sprbsbobete tel ciuaggbaatitio’ er] a LT Be eta so New York E. P. Dutton and Company 681, Fifth Avenue 1926 Err Seo 7 we; a ee hy 1 , — To. 3 a cE ecko oe . a aa emi: i Mtn me * rr— ++ => ee ’ Of». 4: | @ i sl i tite lite eal ae oe ee ee ee [et coin, cnn cil ah pat net adh nt ine nel — a. F , - ” a - Se ed ~ a dh a a dee ial i. il aie aia, ai aia a es ’ * \ a on ‘eo. ; = ~ 4 a *_* = a = * = ad ee ee ee ee ne il il Ad * Di ae i aa *_* + * ee i ee ee ee ee ee -* + = «© @ Ff ee ee oe ee el Se Oe ee ee ee la ai ai ail de ill ee ee ee ed ee ee -_* Sid -” ~« * * + ee ke Dae ee ei ole ele 4 Ce ee ee ied salle oe i A ad * ad a a , + i, Tas in lta ciaasiien inten silicic diitiaa iad ili emai a in iain - URL IOL ot oe | as ae ry J o*s *¢ * a Via cobras Seaeeba Ay bd a a ats i hy - a " a ers ihe 4 | ei A en be 7 ON he arid abt ah A ee CI + ot tat tee | *-* on UL ; . a + “te etn ¢ J. ha eOCUOIOU a oo . - a a nN + . a “eee a Did at med ad ‘ ~ ‘ " Phy bee 4 we hi a ‘4 - te We be we ee Pe er Adee | athe a) *,* + eo +4 oa ye a Pe kd bf dls wt Kaira ae * te alt, : a ee | a ae - * J * a | es et bh ees tte a minted dil rreat Britain. ed +e ‘ a ee hs ** ot | 4 a) a Pet A 9 i ao. ee ee ee See eT i ie al ale i ee ee ee a ee ee i . * > ‘i a i eae -*+ + > + aa acelin lal ae dats aii Detain alee didi ait dt cee ata 7 nalts a eeContents CHAPTER I WINDERMERE, GRASMERE © RYDAL; THE WORDSWORTH COUNTRY ; AMBLESIDE; THE WESTMORLAND DALES - - - CHAPTER II DERWENTWATER, BASSENTHWAITE, THIRLMERE & THE CUMBERLAND DALES; SKIDDAW ; “ THE JOHN PEEL COUNTRY “ 2 CHAPTER III ULLSWATER, HAWESWATER, © THE EAST FELLS PENRITH ; THE ROAD OVER SHAP FELL - CHAPTER IV OVER THE GREAT RIDGES: FAIRFIELD © HELVELLYN - - - - CHAPTER V CRUMMOCK WATER, BUTTERMERE, © LOWES- WATER- . : : PAGE Vj 37 D7 54 Pas +4 ee += —F ad ail * = 7 m 4 of ra orgy +t @ ee ’ a oT er. ie te rhe SU Pr oee' ee % * dbl s atstieiace §* Repco sc aren i Pathe ober o 5 ors n i 4 hat -* t+ ni oS it. ru SS HIN PMC PPAR J 7-4 e'*@e cot ht Ws } ret achey es * t ‘ a 4 SOOO a; ar tinctrelstet *) f rN . tbe's Sa ae hts it bietdtagerdedst * 5% Ryo! Lr pera oi UST Gr Te oe or! Me a bd AFT, ; na Pee ies " 4 roe PAT Se be beak Cae einkepebeioteiiebarls the ry ad re M eae. ' NTT ieogt Fs -— Wor a SUR eet tet PERO, Pa Stat oh Cee) PARRA RRR Rete eae we ao OPOIC MCI IUr Ds bs Sood Gr rere Py ‘ Ps et at ee - HP . choses hcehe} . Pores wt yet} ar ~- SOY OG Rote 5 ] _ Mot SLA | 4 ESC ASC eat at ot St | rae DEM ere cs a ol a + *)"s * th ale Pane READ Fe Ce. ed ¢ a — = a ~* a é « ’ 3 r OOOO SO SIC - es aS > - ee ee oe tara ei eee > “+ -- Pe oe ae ar tr tal ees ee ee eee re @ ae vat tet teat Ped tad es xT AL ar Ps Pee et a te 28 6 4.6. = « - +e *,* Ct tee = eee 4 ree a aa fie fs EM Pe A ee ee ee ee ° Ps o OOOO OCC ee Oe Soon AFAR LAP Til pate te Rh hd Cn nw eee Se eek ee eel othr oe ie P Phi aS , Tet es ob 6 "ad hn cb enviar nd ed ° Sd el nae tela clea hee AA AA AR at teat eet eat 5 A ceeaiiameinliedl a at ee ee ae * ii trea . seinen a - i st * Contents PAGE CHAPTER VI SNNERDALE, WASTWATER, © THE WESTERN = DALES - - . - CHAPTER VII CONISTON, ESTHWAITE, & FURNESS; FURNESS ABBEY, CARTMEL PRIORY, THE SANDS -_ 110 Pa an CHAPTER VIII THE CLIMBERS PARK: HOW TO SEE THE FELLS 25 nt ee b “+ i* a de + * + a) A we es CHAPTER IX DALESMEN S SPORTS : WRESTLING, HOUND-TRAIL- ; ra, a Pt er bh a. ee | st.4 wid Pre | *4 = - as i + ' de Wiig ** ++ n a ** Ss a i 7 ’ ING, GUIDES RACE, POLE-JUMPING, &C. - 39 + 7 + a7 * i - i‘i oY J Oe | $,0)0,6 2 ae i i ’ ee $.4+ 44 * +4 @ Le ee | a * + > es *,*) bf eh be ve Pee PPS Om ~ : os a a 4 4 F eet tetrt oe ee Or + ee eee ae a * 4 sot bbw gy te+ee ee Po. ee A 7 4 a a * Sl + a ? a * * * ‘e+e * A eee et he oe i 7 + =. os | ee i ee ee, PO ek lk le, Ae tee dal i . eS ee ee . oe oe ee ee ee ee ee elit ge Ala, Die iat Si Dita, inl d ein aiid Sk ciated ditt ee . + 7 et et ee ee eeS ieaie tal o a ee a = 4 ‘ 3 : * r i inal . a tee j as ¢ | rs - : | + - ey *.¢+ g bd ea ; ae [ Pe. a Ce Sis * > Tt = r} lil SP ld eon allied + « i ; RAGS etetetiti? noe to cote see bd fari . os tS + 7 ih rt coo ie * ity y orer a? - r ha ree re hy eo SMe Teor 1 aoe Mt the o49,4]> i bees ots | List of Illustrations * * ++ ‘a M eratinge eras OO “\ ee aoe} Mt Sees oa BLEA TARN & LANGDALE PIKES - Frontispiece | \ PAGE etre peety eM - ot ry + aaa aod WINDERMERE, BELLE ISLE, & BOWNESS BAY - 17 — = —— = eaten i + +18 * + + + tet ht be4 ee LANGDALE VILLAGE - . : z 19 Jaiabebsioiesender ls ilint- erie sree tri) HEAD OF WINDERMERE - ; - AI Ooty Bae -* Paes **+ ee ee he + es a «+ + * e+ ¢ oe oe 4 cf BEEROIGROCOCUIE yh Ce eset UCONN e Ss 4 + 23 OLD COBBLER’S SHOP, AMBLESIDE oe 4 CRASMERE FROM RED BANK - : : 26 * « a hot oF ti | : > = ' ’ rn * et ** , OETE Made ESL PEM TUR EL oT Of pa see PED TE Sk eM CO ey 7.5.8 i» _ 4 e { isfbin, je gseabgaclbasgbalcaeglalsintedabastetstsiebaiadt - blagatindtinielsteteisiet *s RYDAL MERE & NAB SCAR - : = I§ a 7+ ca if | — | oy DUNGEON GHYLL FORCE, GREAT LANGDALE STONE BRIDGE IN LITTLE LANGDALE - ; 32 9 ‘ | . ee pret * LF eet iiee * eT + -~ + a ee i a og * Pe ee ee ee Pl a - * a ee ~or + & @ @¢ - al * ad i see ee lh ae la iad Ahn ee * a | ltt Deen tint e ciiln iin dati Pe ee ee a ee a ee ee ee ee ee ee a ee lel - — ee ee ee ae ae ae ae o ae ht Wt by wif my List of Illustrations PAGE LOUGHRIGG TARN, LANGDALE PIKES, & BOWFELL 30D HEAD OF DERWENTWATER~ - - - LANGDALE PIKES & MILL GHYLL . - ; GRASMERE - - : - - KESWICK, DERWENTWATER, & THE FELL - ESKDALE - - - - - Ls FRIARS CRAG, DERWENTWATER - - 4 ereeererrr: red i ot e : ” a*e*s* co. | : nd incl teal we ' 7 eo ee ea a. * ee + © ey , THIRLMERE - - - = - oO - * + « a oe a ++ DOTS wy! .* * J * bi - c 7 Peded dhe ** me 4-6 45%," @ ble be,” | Or a i DOCTOR'S BRIDGE, ESKDALE - 7 . had be ba LJ (md ULLSWATER © GLENRIDDING - : 10 ‘ - rt r Pat ar he *- - +a A a tos a 44+? rr} oI 7 4 + a. 7 : ‘+ SOC. a oe eee - * * TOTTI ‘a 5 a ee * +* + ee ee ed nga a oe le ee oe oe ee ee eee hoe ne 2 Ae al oe ee at . -* etait ciaeneiaal inate ceed alla aetlcas Iocan ciation ete eae : _- = * + 4 4 &- e+ © + ele ee del eh al ale de a incall i le dell tile ee te i ti i ed 5 rs Pa .+4 + 4 ee id List of Illustrations Fe Py $4 arctan ir © x ry oe rs *? ied Od | ar) abt fe obra slattse oe atat 1656 era anne Sy 0 mse THIRLMERE & ITS ROADS Ps pears ata * a lt ieie eerie 7 iy be Ey eyes q ae eie@.4,.9.¢ ty Yt) ’ o> pe peste FAIRFIELD FROM DEEPDALE + ——— cs APTA ies ee ee oe rare tt he be rt) ° + . petal bitptiebies [ee UG 67 | LOOKING DOWN ULLSWATER -* | “t ear ats Noe! Ne Le J ahperepenater’ Ah Ly KIRKSTONE PASS & BROTHERSWATER Tyr wero. at a oe ey +4; 47 * ~ LOOKING FROM THE ROCKS TO ULLSWATER-~ - i4 7 CI SOOO Ot rr at: art é*e A ry * eee pe ‘ eee CTCL * - ry ; a “i+ Da Phat Pwr + HWS peter te 3 St Terre T MTSE ade Boe Oto Teroereeron: ‘ rh, a ey totes, Cte bd Lu ’? aa batatoiepabetstededsindet-tad-tisatle iqieigiqigs . . Lert’ | WAP — a Ps aor ACW QU Sel oP rer RR ae ai ae fs rorein SF Se Tle brake? Wt ot Pett tT tt Ye the rc ‘ = ‘ ' / ; : a okt a a on MMH MMR MM MIOR COC DS tse re b ys 4 eto ULLSWATER - : : : — 18 ++ “++ baie HEAD OF BUTTERMERE : = = Si a ES o NAPES NEEDLE, GREAT GABLE - i BOG 101 & SWIRREL EDGE & KEPPEL COVE TARN . gE HEAD OF ESKDALE - : ; Sard ye:ra ee ++ > . as Nd — — ee ee ~ > ll A ll eal + * **' eo # Ok a | tyigeee Se a a Se ee ee ee ee ollie sl aia lhl Iii alia fad i it bet ca -* * 4 4 ss by bs Se ee ae ee ill lila tla titi cil italiane a + + ** a sii cillincaliaaiiiniacaietitan iliac in iti A dialianatiaa a J * * | oil, SM ail 0 ad List of Illustrations i rir ib eed SCREES MOU NTAIN WASTWATER t t an Neel! WASDALE HEAD : : ~ 28 +, * 4 t% J SZ * »* *& ‘ + * 4 a * ‘ a I TARN HOWS 4 | ae meet se es O Z. = <, — ss © 7, ! | } - * ted ih is *) s * uC “eee Pe rs <4 nig .* er wert? é cs rd th be *e ae a . yt +," +» Fed Ph Se DET td id bs * Pd **¢ tera” oe oPereerere ree a ree ee A to erred 7 eee oie he oT ‘ aes crit e* 4 ey V7 Pid id oe F “a | AP 'y - + a ee ‘ a eo . S.* J + eerchs “ae ah vd Tor ae * a hd ba a * &* ateratrr ee e476 . AS rs ey * 4,0 ¢ * * « Pt | a *he ” ea > &.4.* * «,%. 4 « *e+euneeae 25 2 ee : ra diate ons : *,4 - + PLN 2 be bd reperey ~ fhe wae: ne | * es ** i foie elaje'e it" i ane te adelbada si is ae he s rd heed we hoe eS “"' + & & _* + ‘we ¥ cm! _* Pa a ee a * A a a Pa rs | ee ee +4 4 be ba ** st ~ eee ey he ag ee ee rt ai Tr ae ++ a rs » +e & 4 + ’ * + 7 . * + 4 oo . | ee ee Cd ‘ ‘ Tok ‘ Ae we 7 We a A . : . — = ie * * ee, i Te Di ge le de ey ln AN ME ed Se ee le de ee all sia ddl ea i, pea tt fl Mae eh el. 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Se ae ee ee ee ee ee ee ee ee ee ee yi — ™ - —w - ” AF a = a | ie ee oe ee oe ee Oe ee a oe ee ee oe ee ee ee 2 Se ie le ad ai la A a te ie eae a ecg, ln eet ae ee lie ih dint til itl ait a a | eat ee er eee a ee ee ee ee — Pas eo - calli Ce ee Pe ee ee oe ee ao i ee ee ee ee ee ee a. oe bet ht oe potas heer ce ge eet a er be 8 Bhp ep ty re ee ey ee p* 4 a ed = ee ee eee ee ee ee ee ee ee ee ee ee A ed ee a ae oe ee Oe ee et a a ee ee ee eee Se 2 ee ee oe ee ee he oe pe ee ee wt a ae ah : cael ei Pe ee ee ee ee ee ee oe a ee et Pera Pen Pa Peta Se ee ee ad Ot ee ee ae ae a ae ee et al a ad el ee ee ea a ee ee ee ed, oi) a = bud ee ee ee ae ee ee ee ee nee ee iii aetna aad teed died ee ee oe a ee ae ee a “7 . sedan Ti. ore teat — ananassae: lata te tes = ——— wr) Ls Pol ad ete td a ed oP hs Mm Farin *. o*arat,t Pee . * Bocas bd ed at “i Ph a * Ay’ a * + et . + * * * tet yhemenee S:4.4 ea. ** &» tt at bs ** «4 + #: 3°64" * : Pd Ca Pe tg 4 ry ~ ‘ ** ++ + he beat it be be a &* fh, * oe * *8 * 4 m Phat FO a -f 09 Pee Se ++ a IS] (IN \ 4 ‘ Ps ~e + a ee | Pe) -* SSVLN ALO od ol et @ r o4% a * i wha * aoe eet +4 i ‘ Pt te tl * Lo a A \ *-* J fake lale wet etite | = oaths A, . ** ee | ‘ ee a ” iN 4 J iy Pe A , bd a ~~ a . + eee & PC Se rue * “1 oe Pe ae ee , oe) we re Kt, hI a -, 1 as * Ce ie ee a ee el ele i ae alll ee ee El Te Se ee ee ee ee ed i ee -* =e . ] i a M ™ : : a naa Ax. SS a a ae * * Te eee, ee ee a ee ee ee ee ; a a ath I ee aad ed nd Dad id nda inated iat akan meta a ame Fee - . ee a eg a Sl ht nd el hea el b ++ os * . “ : ' o * 5 io . + . 5 + ‘ a - . O s ‘Things Seen on the English Lakes CHAPTER I WINDERMERE GRASMERE ®& RYDAL; THE WORDS- WORTH COUNTRY ; AMBLESIDE; THE WESTMOR- LAND DALES INDERMERE, 104 miles long, has been described as the “King” of the English Lakes. The northern section is in fashionable Wordsworthshire ; the southern is but little known except from the steamer or from a car travelling the east road to Bowness—a route which gives little of the real charm of the countryside. Wordsworth strongly recommended an approach to the glories of hills and lakes from the southern extremity of Windermere. He was right. In his day, however, the gorge of the Leven was not a noisy route. ‘The forge at Backbarrow, the factory at Haverthwaite, were hardly in existence, and the roadside dwellings were those of small farmers, labourers, woodcutters, with a white- washed inn or two. And the traveller had more B ee ee ae eee +4 corer vrs Pole dja, tt ee Het bf tf We hea? a ed c . ee hel Et eS ne | tA EN t, 2 . i * a? a festateetaiegetsts rote Peary nes prsepeisea vate rare 10 O01 otis ati traces ey i tts ot Parc oee se str ema sats he oe he ‘ oe Reeptseiere. a o> “fofabalatinitred tinny ad + TT te%it 2 elas eeererrer ares a 8 HL - Ce Neg h TT | a ythros Pore ety * i lel et FADE er} i i { * #404 CHEAT HG i “~ ve bh treet ee rena UR sh sere recs ret * . aH Aon yh nor vee eee + ee Oe fF i +++ J ae At tite ei 4 tet see a J or) ‘ Saboplp ble dg leleitdy ae toa eth * * LF My tte my 4 +e ee 2 * 4 4 #1 *.¢ @ Pte be - "te P : UAT yy. LP fa sted af Od SAI St is 7 Pett e ot . Sei bre pele tle duh at, ores es ar at, tT STEM Da RMR Tere RMR COUCT OCS See ia te ek en a el a ee ee ee ee ———— ~ ee Oe a : Wd Tae dt " Hi \ eo *ae H Lt) ae bs + OO rs ea ee . os . «4 | iN Pi a nea ea a oe eben + Windermere, Grasmere & Rydal joy in the rich colours of hills and woodlands because his eyes had just been strained during the ne > ba a ae oe - nab er Md . « a. Le St ter + r we . i ” - ot oe b *is 4 4 PrP et S r saa te a | a ee dangerous passage of the tideway ‘‘ Over Sands.” To-day the Leven gorge 1s still glorious at early day ; the swirling river gives hoarse thunder as it drives over boulders and ledges. Here and there is the swirl which will be a salmon pool, the riffle which holds fine trout. In time of flood the spray rises in clouds and drifts its moist way over the dense coppice. Oh! it’s fine to be here when the first golden shaft of sunshine bends over the hills y ee P ht MW brad et et Te Pe re be +. a we hs * 09, rhe ahd pepererires ae - at ae »+* Ce ag OP eh a Re ee Oe * 4 ee rm ° * er) CT bt be bd 4 24 be a le ott yh «64 r wd ‘ ae) Cd et oe * ee he a. ety $6. 4"4* nd rhe | ABA ss 4 sched chen a WU ANTON - a it al ere at ot oa | tytameterye terete’ =) 4\+ La | tie * a? 4 ‘ nM a ff and the birds awake into active life. The weir at Newby Bridge marks a sudden change from roaring torrent to quiet pool. Though the lake is a good mile away, it is easy to row up the level stream to its open surface. The old Newby . — seen trrirteniic eitennetennte “rd A, ad hd ee a one ‘ o*,* Pad ‘7 he? 8 @ bie At th! " a8 - 7 . : ; rt eae 4 «4.4 66 Cat **e4 44 «t+ Cg ard wee err LI . - bridge with its narrow, humped back and shelter coves for pedestrians is strikingly beautiful. It is typical of Lake-country bridges large and small. Next the bridge is the Swan Hotel mith its gardens stretching inka ard. In high summer the pérgolas give rich red and green contrasts to the smooth, clear stream. In autumn the island, the elms, sycamores, and oaks are a riot of colour. In spring PEPE eenrTr ss tal P +i+ieb 0 8 8 6 | ge Ph 4 ye ly ete tt Me + +44 ] Se rr ~ A air S.A an if ett Whe eee OUT ‘ rs A oe > Fs r R a é ‘ there is ever-changing tenderness of green and shadowy silver, and the river seems to slide past, 1d a ba De de ml Gain benches bs bo teed os ein RL + + A ‘+ aL dd (oe oI ae in oY ee he ee ee a | ae! -* 5 ‘ ort oe | J ot es rt + * 4 *,4 44+ 7 ie oe Pe ee ee Paes bree os fF Of er ed be re) db bie t+ eae 4 +e - sqtedeagindetet srt ros Bread i | oe Pa ve | ee bent - a | . Sa— _—— (a re ne — pay APOC Stet PtH Sear + + Pl, F" ite aie ate od ay H sd rol a ron paras rou pert a ete a 7 5 i Mth + = > a ead ee LTT Sth: pare * rare F a. i Ps Ce a 7 Arete RES atte UM eet te eo a + 2. hate 4 ere Poe PT Pa ae re" Fae or ** ea atl? + Prt Pe AT oe oo a rs | ies 1@20 ettindet at + ¢\* @ ea +f dod hid 7 OOOO OUL ea SA i ots A os ronrtrt ate ala] Par or ie) ore * *\4 ‘Lata te al ee Prt trae oo 7 hee s a eR Por: et hd tr hd! as i hee on i as) a - , ee | Ped an ao e+ 4 sis} err +) >" 2a aa ‘ ru ie Renta ieae id > P + trio tie sacl 4 o:¢ 4 4.6 §* vhehele}atat ‘ el * 4 er 7 + . ‘ cad . Day a eo2 eo a ee ee ee i eee aed <4 a 5 a ie gee ee ee ee ae ee ee ee ee ee ee ee ee ee ee ad a + * oa a ** * - -* + ee ee ee ee ee Oe ee oe ee ee ee ee ee ee ee ee ee + i I Be ee ate ee ee ee ee ee ee or © © i + + « Ce ee ee ee ee oI * er ee ee ed Pd ad ee ee ee 5 tied FR as ee 2 a ae ae 7 ihe io tebsteteredinl bi i 4% ay J st he we wt | . + . + PS | a * os Shae hw ie Sn eed ota MVR, 7 a he bs i a) + wt Se a < ra we TK} erry x. Ps wet ra a + te Ps me Fl ee as gg a ee a ad a rs a ee ae **@» a ae = . *-s hg Ue be hb * as ” a | «+ + + + io a * - iJ oe —< id 4 a - J ae ee *fhe ee + $a¢ *» 4 as 7 bd de Ae ‘sé i A | i* 4s 4 fathead a PC "* 7 ir) se 8 44 4 Pee as * # #.¢@ +2 #,* 4 wae’ er te be Bd | a. P a + « " a a a ‘ ae J * + rm ae a on a ts . a At Pos yy os ed * Pat tie > ee wee & il ** e* » Pa 5 a a he el a) ** + Ld + > A LC t oe pe * S Oa ° fi 4 '* « - : : a a oe ee ee ee 5 ee, i i ee ee ee ee ee i ee ee ee ee a lel a ieee ta ai et ee ee 7 7 tmee*ee @ @ * 4 OOO rt ee es 4 a 2 + o ’Windermere, Grasmere & Rydal without distorting the shadows and reflections on its smooth surface. There are various ways of seeing the Lake Country. In this itinerary it is my intention to wander very much at ease, using motor route, cart road, field track, and mountain path just as they suit. ‘There are many roads which offer no companionship to the traveller who wishes to see. The first of these is the conventional route which, swinging right at Newby Bridge and then left, goes direct to Bowness. It is not to be denied that these miles have one magnificent view—this is about two miles forward from Newby Bridge, where there is a “surprise” at the corner of a hill, many great mountains suddenly becoming visible over the plain of water. A handy car can travel the western road up the lake, and this is recommended on account of the quiet beauty of the miles. There is a fine strand at the “ Lakeside,” next the railway terminus, with islands dotted here and there over thelake. Such a stretch of water is a wonderful sky-mirror: it may dance with April joy, shine with August benevolence. A threatening sky brings a grey dour face on the waters, and the gloom of winter above is reflected by sadness below. ‘The road 9 ee 3 a" — i? #4 bd HOSDEMOCOT Tire tru t OUk rept Th rs Pid tos Puy bi0ke Heh, P gaitibinindapcadgthis id iainaetauleotrlen, eS TO Cre eet che eu gtekchinindladat ed tiadenceapinid > rer a. * hr ee & Py 4 pair! 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M og ee a ee bd a’ Ma be oa ae bt babe be bo Drea esac RL = Pe WS SEW I aC I 1 } 7 co RO + + * “+ @ or Oe SUR ar ae PT ee ee ~ Pn oS * ¢.¢.6 ao RO OU TAA MN AZ. « PT a ain . hard Fed he Ue Oe | rae > _ a La Ft aa : . a . EPCS. fon ba | " . SOOT eran Fn be eee ; ‘ + et 42 ee é ae al ee Ps “- Pte > * aretelara® * ¥ ri PSUR el ert Ae ieee OU . Windermere, Grasmere & Rydal along this western shore is a place for moderate speed, though, since the Great War, many curves have been straightened and some awkward drops and rises modified. Stott Park is the first of Lake-country bobbin mills; a little hamlet tucked round a pleasant-smelling place of whirling tools and torn timber. This is Furness—Lakes Lancashire where, in days gone by, the writ of the Abbot of Furness was mightier than that of the King at a land Windsor. The great shaggy woods spread for miles to the west, to the shore of Coniston Water, to the Duddon and practically to the Esk, broken here and there by a narrow heather or grass moor, or some natural farm-land. ‘This western road travels now by the lake level, anon deep in the coppice woods. Here is Graythwaite, home alike of ancient Sandys and equally ancient Rawlinsons. A little while after throwing an offshoot towards Hawkshead the road wanders inland, yet it has entrancing views all the way to Ferry Brow, where the Kendal-Hawkshead road is reached. Until the Westmorland shore blistered into villadom, the outlook here was one of compelling beauty, espect- ally in spring and autumn when the rising and falling tide of colour was mirrored in the calm 20— aa me et AR ee arn Se ace — OS 7 ‘| yt LC rer a — PTC te REPOS rst a co a 4 ’ "* rad mr 26 | . te . af To 74 Ot tete Uy . 2 ben rae Sa ran vr ee r . ea aT s eat hy IG et wt) . teres 2 Pe FC ce reryet fort Ae 7. oc 2k i eC pias pal ‘ Wie ou i * a os Pd | ae bis . pears ee + * 4- * * on ‘ 4 *-* Sg H te hea en ch se Sirkstehfihi . 48 re - ee ano eo Pet Ot 1° herb ey Ps haee ha Pa Por yee on ” r b 5 a F v ee + a +\¢ PTT. of UP Pee a Pe oe et teres \ a ie Pee Pe hed * +s « yo ie gays ETE Tet er _ ** ¢ 7" * hee] “je 47,0 1*,*) + a ol Yuh ha | mr ph at yrirreieret Pow eS A Pag | +eres *? ore 4 i osétaist ere. bt *- tabieiets rope Fiee tits. © ee #4 - rf e.¢ e516 Witt S o:s )7b74-8 & ; at ro oe re i } ar SCT S **sd * i + Stet >i eel 5 - '* + a a .. 4 oe Pe ee pal hee ee oe ee ee ee ee ee oe a ae ~ ene me + 0 = | Ce ee, te ~ * © ¢ Bere © + + > Ce ee oe a ee : eed + Se ae - > a - - 7 - - . 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Half a mile along the shore is the knoll on which the famous Ferry Hotel, headquarters of Windermere yachting, has been built. In the old times the row-boats came from the Westmorland “ Nab” to the *“* House” on the Lancashire shore. ‘This ‘* House” has long disap- peared, though one may trace foundations just at the foot of Ferry Hill. ‘This ferry is an ancient institution. ‘The monks of Furness Abbey ap- parently were responsible for its safety and service. Of course, the place has its legend. A ghostly voice used to call for * Boat” on a stormy night. Once a boatman put off from his cottage on the side in answer to this horrible, untimely yell. In half an hour he returned, his craft full of water. He was ghastly white and speechless. Had he ferried some evil spirit over to fair Westmorland ? What form of fury had thrown The answer will never be known, Westmorland him into terror ? for the man died, speechless, without making con- fession. So, with bell and book and candle, the priest of St. Mary’s Holm laid the spectre for ever in the depths of the rocks on Cunsey shore. This old ferry is worth a little consideration. 21 ee : — * io > re ee a oT * ar 7 aisles. pene Pe tre LA ie AI y, , OC TC Toa es tie bie rapee ae at yA, Ps 7 eo te ot isi A Meret th) yey ora ore! nat he i RG AG k rt Hetdieebadeeta “] ’ Pewee IOUT et fale ’ A Aer es et Ar rhe a) r| iy yr SSE OS Sak 7 " + AA a) *.* « eerie 4 rf . SOOat hy" e a le 7. Tee revel etre om 7 ee = 6 oie eb O)F ee ey cet Al tities oa) 7 hs ah ie Pd irae | : aa Pa rs beh ot he ca aa ¢ oe hehe Ps epee rep Py Popes oe Fea Dera My i - [rh 7 ed bes $i ee BOUT, Sere A wuts e ath bre lstateente Sirebate acatitatlelbrtstsePatacelstgteraecttecott OCT TRY MR ets et Peeks Pfr We eee ‘breldth legac’ O12 * 4 6 tee 6 Pot ot of of oe Or “\titisieis DFO eR ie eee ree tons OG CNT en nrg PORN R eRe ue hee OUI E ris iM —_ ~me a od f7 errs. a te 4 s o ee es "i" 8 2 6 a Py ee 5 i +, ote a 4 . + thane wt 4*,* A POS Lab Yo | . oa re + Wes Ae | e,* Pal a ooh ded | * CJ 4% 4)¢ 4) % +4, * ‘othe SCOt St MTT - a _ «4 * er +, +46.¢,6 6 6.649, 91.46 © a 7 os $44 & id * * rg ee. te Ve » § . SA et « a ee Sic Le he ee ee ea ae tad rs saree ee + Pe , 4 Pert ee yh ee ors * + el Teed a r 7 Fle at ba biieodlethd LIC a oc tthe aa AO Gr SAR OPE eke ee De th reed i bd at che 8) es “Phebe bea ad Tien fed tal ‘F pe $,* he ag et ba ‘ a b.°.626 oe rn fe, ST yiy ww bee to =. Te , a ie tts 7 avs a es hs ‘ 4 + * + Pat ge lat nd | ao: “*.! : M | oe i.e @ * & * tol +e hha oe Oey r A * ‘ a oe a —_ —_— eon oe COE MERRILL Tas) PLS CPG LIL De he ee eee de eel re btor ts Seer tLe ee Le rhe" AAP LRT | An Me « | yt he ea aint : a ed tie edae se? tet tors rs Pee We Oo Se Or ey Ge ee ee a) a a hI aoones . ” ' OTe »« othe hal AS ™ . oe j ‘s y . Lt hn oe . . rs s * rn +,$,6"° 4 4 e ‘ r a7 ,*.* 144 * +4 - | oe ab a*.f a Bt) teach beh Poe eae oor) or ete*evate! it A then ton ood ed Sr OT IC Wr PO Carers on by oy ata {i ea $ eh bd * . + J ** ** ++ 4 + o ~ a. POU Pos i sc 4°,° ees. al ie oe Pk Pot ee ot *" bf et re eke, i's 4 « ee Windermere, Grasmere & Rydal Once it was the scene of a tragedy. In the year 1635, on the 19th October at sunset, the “ great bote” sank, and forty-seven persons, some of them said to be of a wedding-party returning from Hawkshead Church, were drowned. When the genial “Christopher North” was in his country quarters at Elleray, he was fond of commanding the ferry boat with its mighty sweeps. One day, when he was steering across, there was outcry about “a girt fish wi’ twea tails” splashing in the water. This proved to be a curiosity indeed. A large pike had rushed at a smaller brother and tried to swallow him whole. ‘The carcass was, however, rather outsize, and there was entangle- ment of gills with the savage rows of teeth. ‘The captor was slowly dying, yet unable to disgorge its victim. From the ferry point one sees the truth of the old dialect maxim: “ It’s a’ nabs an’ neuks is Windermer-watter.” Bays and islets make up the lake’s glory. The chief island is, of course, that held by the Curwens, who declare their descent from Ivo de Taillebois, who was one of the Conqueror’s chief lieutenants. The narrow strip is occupied by a mansion and grounds, and is really historic. In the Civil War Belle Isle was held for the King. 2 2 = Se ee - + Sa ee ee eo ‘+r +=] © &-« aetna ite calli aii callie cen tetanic ie eeme * l 7 co 4 ty eon . rere a wadtrrs “hal, Fshtr TT ee Pgs | rt ar Te ee ha Py . ie? A seb ee Pare ory : REET RS Oa se teses oars om | ps Teste try Dl r Py ’ at * ra] i en rt |e fat Totter a ees + ” oe wl ie a’ in areata tet + ' hee Cd oF ees fits " ‘ sae ie ee ee % . ‘+ it an 7 ad a ba $+ *) 6-9) 4°'0 8 6 * + #7 )F eg bs a bey eet m PE peers >. 16 OS: CP Citer ht oe Orta a he he be 44 a . ac a+ + Mi ara [ot “tr Te ed ed ee * 2 8% » at APO | oe ek ee aedeaniee? C7 Pat Tt aed 7 een ny | heehee ee ee Prt * * A - rs A Fads 14-4, ¢ & Pe heh mea ;s° + ¢.¢ ol | Ts %, Ped eve ot yt a! ts} }- rr ok Tore | 7 isi + rarer = « en | ia. r’ + + LS on? >. Lear Pe tt | 4° Pe Pare i ert] * + ea oe ren Sl ee ¢ a ROT TCE **Pk i ak te are naan aa ° we tt a ~ : " — , . . Ln 7? fy ee ee ee * ee ee ee ee el el 2 - a Si led Sa sin i de ie oe A a 5 en ee ld Sn a id nd Sn ee * dl ew Ca - . = . . : * a ll lth ed 8 bd a | i ee eT ee * + ao a Ms * eS a ee ee ee ee ee ee ee Oe ee ee, ee ee ee ee ee -~ * re oe oe ee et ee oe ee a - “ot ee + cS ad $2. a a ee ee ee ee ee ee ee ee ee el ae Se i ee ee ee ee ee ee ee * ee ee ae ee * + * - - = ; rs Ce di a i a ate ti ai aie aie ee ee ee ee ee ee . * + ne oe YY ee a * _ -* + . i ee + +e e+ Ce ee ee ca ce “ ~ eho? od vee s- ie : ans +b "4° it ay tt Pe *. PAC ) \ s . i + >t ae L 7 | J #4 HIN i M M hdd | ~ tela hed ‘ . a es + # . * ae ee ** ae eee _ wr , “14",* J i et . Lay Pa + . 4 fa ** ‘ * Ped be * * cs ae * : ae | a oe | fh a | an) a + nad re ’ v * OO) oe Sehr ? 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J | tedens’ Windermere, Grasmere & Rydal | he A pe Colonel Briggs, one of Cromwell’s local stalwarts, endeavoured to carry the defences by surprise. aL r Peco rere eible hk ¢.steiva® et drsilashelutasebatitees an] bes 3D Sse f The attempt was foiled after a severe struggle. . . . wy AT - | as There was a thrilling sequel, which Sir Waltez i . | ° a). ae - 9° \ oo Ol Scott seized for a magnificent episode in “ Rokeby. & 7 We * te deisdetigig Py) Se rt) Robert Philipson (‘ Robin the Devil” of country ) yarns) galloped down from the King’s army, which | had just raised the siege of Carlisle. Briggs had retired home to Kendal, so Robin with some friends followed. It was Sunday morning, and | the Colonel had gone to church. Robin rode on horseback into the sacred fane, up one aisle and down the other, but Briggs had again escaped, this time by a side door. ‘The alarm was raised, and at the great door of Kendal old church there was a scuffle. Robin’s saddle girth gave way, and he was unhorsed. He placed the saddle on the back of his war-horse, and vaulted back to a riding position. With a back-hand cut Robin cut down his chief antagonist, and his party was out of town ere the Puritans could muster their horses. To-day Belle Isle is peaceful, and looks tanta- lising. Nature intended it for a national park, os not for a personal domain. H ever the line of | Curwen fails their island cannot escape public f STOO OG ConA Am ra *. ets Ne DC Ut ret ad + Pal * a. oe | tab ibintedahansednds Pst St Sr + t * at "bia + + Q 4 oe oe + a . FY ‘i oe ; ea eboapeaese sent atoen MOCM Tulane paved! ;iponftoons A a EE, a. Pe °° a Stott "e+ heee et ee Se ye se 4 AULA OCU La reac AREAS ARE SEHR ee eae stinislelelesebeleteteititinttay-ab tit inlelelyy rT od . VJ ee a rey * ett ' rr OO rhe" a Stet HOt ow ; a ref b* oa ce 6 SCR ast or . RT OEDEMA eee ee UOC e a ee er) 4 od hea | 4\* ba Ps ownership. We have a Royal Commissien which 23 if ee ge ET4 a ; »*, oa? 68 | Pe Se a bP pd n *eea e+ * ‘ “ws if wh.” s* + ee be A eC - aenyciniet ett er eeecd < ty a? OR es ore : a ‘ * * r A OS AG e,? 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The road from the Ferry Nab passes inland for half a mile, then turns left to the lake-shore at Bowness. Here a park of some fifty acres has been secured, and from the outer edge there is a fine view of the great slope on which Bowness and Windermere have been built. Red and green and purple roofs are half-tide rocks in a surge of many-hued woodland. ‘There are great hotels in plenty, from Old England on Bowness Bay to Rigg’s, high up the slope of Orrest Head. ‘There is also a large hydropathic establishment and many small and private hotels. Windermere Church, in its knot of yews near the lake, is the only building ancient enough to possess stained glass of great age. It 1s worth visiting. From the twin modern villages it Is an easy run out to Winster, and down twisting lanes to Bowland Bridge and Cartmel Fell. ‘This is quaint country, approximating the Lake District of Wordsworth’s time. Wainster had great fame among dalesfolk; here dwelt Jonas Barber, a member of the Clockmakers Society, builder of the old grandfather clocks, so few of which remain 24 Se Pt ee oe ee ee ee ae So i eet eel clean ciel tliat teat alta a ea , — a. = ee * =Windermere, Grasmere & Rydal among the family possessions nowadays. Here, too, lived Pearson, whose nature lore aroused the enthusiasm of his friend Wordsworth. Up to recent years Cartmel Fell Church was in a state of semi-ruin. It was dedicated to St. Anthony of the Pigs. Now, however, the dis- grace has been cleared away, and the neat, orderly little building is less picturesque than the tattered, neglected relic of old. Another run to be recommended is to the ‘Trout- beck valley, where less than eighty years ago the farmers passed pest-stricken cattle, children, and womenfolk through the smoke of the pagan need- fire. Somewhat earlier the same farmers had the reputation of being litigious: sessions and assizes, chancery and appeal courts were crowded with their cases. ‘The result was an inevitable ruin for all the old families of the dale. ‘'Troutbeck had the reputation for humour. Did it not maintain three merits higher than the city of London? Had it not three hundred bridges, three hundred constables, and three hundred bulls? ‘The parish is divided into three hundreds, and there was a bridge, a constable to preserve the peace (poor fellow), and a bull in each. ‘Then there was the rhymed sign of the Mortal Man inn: 25 ee sai inet A NS me tee EUR a ag sc aii es = oor . MOT re he thy ° oneret ti 7," rt 7 * y New + 7. +1* i —_ 4 : Pau oes eres eotee ev IC assay : ‘ * ble & * 4 + + & hg etgees a r pre Pt i 4 RST WUT * tele? or | et tT ‘ Rapsthasn prot reverent sea " a ii et er al ee fe . , iin irorutereoert. 7) jpatcsbubet—-t-t-fa$-f-ftinietetativitie itis re , : ee) tl be bea Pee Pe ah 3 RETR EO be bro Fh < Put oteeee tts MCN t te oe ores ta alka ai + #|* & @ 4 i +.* er 7 el ‘sth be elee bier oie el the ot et Se be be rf Lybebetsivind - A Wa SAOt 5°50 b10:% ERAS Ee TR EOE : - : t, of et ila hi elest ls big’e @ otecelere @ Oita ene ecatete ate tet tht e Perr SIU MR Tree cS UC le ale Uibeistebebsinbeintrintetai tat tae ite ieatl ie nay 3 : 4,4 \* ie ch aed a a ne ee -* ae ed rat br Sie ata ati tits be a LFmod 1 aah | wl ad ee ri ROC or : a7 ».4 hg TL CJ " = Mi — Ad pl bz tear te ‘ _ ' *¢ o + Sare othe Oe A ae be + +** ee et ha tg +54%.6 + 4.4 RAK odes id tae oe) Pg rn P + ae re Puen ae eG * Sa +i tert yk Sasa aero in ’ * Pe iy | Pe et eee * #4 @.4 6*,° ++ A +,°4*," * 4" + SUL IG ee a , Here Te a re be A CU Se ree ba, te =F .* PPC Pe od bd tel be " beh > . ? ‘*. o,%%.9, 8 6.047% r + ee ae ate 4 fad eS, 0+ 4 ate e 4* Lae ld rs ‘<6 ** sd os a rs ry Pet |g s* a5 ° ole sta’, *i4 Per ie be a we e*p*ele ated ood be OL ee Pwr “eee eee ee * 8 bs r + a dt ee ae ‘<6, ee Pe ee Oe be | + Me bv eta we $14.0) . i ere a Pea S "Ty ba hat te the fed BREE Sl eer err enrTTrre Png hd rod be be bee een “— LAA + Fle hd bat be bee te hc ee bas St hex We whe 0 fl ee a et Poe +. 4+ ¢ on bom be | VLA. *e ha i wt Lg oh ry he artes Pd Pig ae a ott. MUOCOAR AAA em be | Pe aud need Puls ww bL. igtrdsdqapintct sl trot rrrerepipryintreristepeyh-toteboini ate) -toceeperenrey ot rer? | Pa oe or Hi ot babe be tobe Pe on Ce oe Ae . * 7 ’ *,4 4 . @ s+ * PePerd be yee VE Se De ee es hd bg oe ee Be OU re 4.0.6 ‘ a ‘ n ‘+b eae ee Me TO AY OO AA +* s4 sete tt tee Oe eas Se ae Or eB © ++ a rd Be tah oe Ba F - . ‘ ' nad = Ped ’ ‘+ 4 " | ~ i ‘ Fd | > + ry os . * ol ot bee te he Corts a Windermere, Grasmere & Rydal ‘“©Q Mortal Man who lives on bread, How came thy nose to be so red? Thou silly ass which art so pale, *Tis drinking Sally Birkett’s ale.” On the old road up Troutbeck—west of the river are several fine old farms with rounded chimneys, outside galleries, and paved courts. Let us return to the ferry and cross over into Lancashire. A road branches off the Hawkshead route almost at once and takes us north, along the lake-shore. There are too many gates in Claife-side for the hurrying motor-drivers to open and close, so we shall have something of peace as we pass comfortably beneath whispering larches. Our first view is Belle Isle, then Bowness, and the great front of Windermere. Every mile brings wonderful panoramas. ‘Though no great height, Wansfell dominates the northern half of the lake. Here the great pool opens over a mile wide. At Belle Grange there is an ancient ferry from Miller- sround at the foot of Queen Adelaide’s Hill, now a public park. The Dowager-Queen of William IV came to the Lakes, and her name was fixed on this beautiful hillock. One wishes that the royal cog- nomen had been more melodious. Its adoption by the National ‘Trust is deplorable. 26ASMERE set in a cup of the green hills of Wordsworthshire, Ve oN RICH al CM bs ret * rhe A ay + i] ; he 2 a 444 aT 7 eee rc oars * * * « Soe hd Co ton) bak ts * toe oo To Par rant is} it my ts ‘ A H oa" * A * + yr hi Py ‘hte rey **i¢ e+ 6 cea 2 FA a4 Pr sy Ochche: | ror os *2¢ he hg eo ee a oe ee oe es A aa ast ee rea cece pis oo oat be * at a | rhe ot Pros! aR * bag +t. ‘= vt A ss * en a a ae ha Phe ks Poe) + Arar Se et Poi Cn phe! Peeeeeee rot tw eserery tbe srosseres LPS Peau, A - Thane S e*« *\* a eA a > *+)* t * * ae a F eo a ‘a ee Bh Be a ‘ a i * rs $10,959, 71°. *e« * MO ESPs beh 4 pt a} * Oe Oa * +. bee Pn | rs +? SEP UU Te ty Ae ¢ +6 ie tA ARTS Rot cs. Hs A ‘ LF a vie 4 ; P o + #.* *@s * co tee bie’ hae ett ot were . , oo+ + + * * 4# Se - + 4 a. * « i * * * a ee a *_-* Se ee ee ai ee A i A a aie ce ian a a es Se ee le I li aa ed Pe el a ee ee ee a ae A - + ee ‘4 Pyrat ie mor i al ahh ter: no oe ta . a , Ca rs ns hl 7 ererete * +) Or @ * * a ot ba iy i ha vial aaa oo a > - 7 ror | + i Let * +P Aa! ps athe **¢ ] e+ & ore er + a ola o* " * om; + 4 Cy * + by +4 i * Pay M . eo ae 4 Phd ted + PM » - o 4 ty * a. UL id ee LARS Ae hed & bre 4 - T + a4 + 0 + ~ c + *e.+¢ os 2 eri - A ea ed iD + - "4a e - TT * 64 a oe: hae ss hd we he bee bs +4 ae | tte 2 7 ft M ee Ld cs + ‘ +. LU — *-*+ “oe ewe ‘ * wa oe ee ee bed "4 : * ** oJ a + aCe , ry rT eee *¢+¢e44 inte dhe" 4 a ay be or | 44 ‘ POT bs > * a | rs as +e#bhe we ee ee oJ APA yhih RAW Pu me rs * ‘* ae 7 —— ee ++ +? * © Oe cect inl tient chet aimee clit cilia iad iadlWindermere, Grasmere & Rydal This ‘““ower-Windermer,” where our wheels stay though thought flies across the mere, 1s quaint. Sometimes the breeze brings you the tang of a charcoal hearth; at the wayside corners you see piles of bark for the tan-pits. Many a bay has ‘ts trunks of larch and other timber waiting to be towed to the lake-foot for railway transport. Wray village is as secluded a corner as you find in the Lake Country. It has no real history. Castle and church alike are modern. ‘The great castle house, once the admiration of picturesque writers, is usually tenantless. ‘The lake is little seen for a mile or so, but the great range of Langdale Pikes, Fairfield and Red Screes is more prominent at every step. The return to West- morland is by Brathay Bridge, a favourite meeting- place of the Lake poets in their younger days. Clappersgate is a mere name—vibrant with memo- ries of red fuchsia and whitewashed walls. ‘The main road turns to the right there for the Rothay and Ambleside. It is impossible to overstate the charms of Ambleside as a centre, though the village-town itself must confess to few attractions. It has not even an ancient castle. Rothay Park and Stock- ghyll Force are Nature’s handiwork. 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Cd J | £6 8 6 616 6074 5%, %4", — ‘tat i) m _ ee Pe ee ee ee ee ae Jia. s ae 7 7 ee ee oe ee) i 43 5s056:4.,088 4,444 4 ’ * aa aae " ne ec be Wrage be Salt Ye Bima de be be Peg ba We WO te bt wy a PO PSL . : ' ee. ae aa a * &©* en) ow i _* . At , t . er i he Windermere, Grasmere & Rydal Roman camp on the flat meadows next the lake, but only the antiquary can enjoy the tenuous tracery of walls and buildings. Though Camden glorified the camp as the carcass of a mighty city, the spade has given no direct evidence of either period or name. An old sandal seems to be the most distinctive find. It is not intended to decry the camp and its investigators. To the ordinary visitor 1t must be confessed that no remarkable thing is at present visible. The camp is public property now, and there is no harm in looking round. Ambleside and its satellite, Waterhead, have several large hotels and many boarding- houses and private quarters. Beyond the village-town of Ambleside, cramped round the little Stock Beck, yet not unpicturesque In its many levels of houses and streets, is the great recess of the Rothay known as Wordsworth- shire. Here, two miles out towards Grasmere, is Rydal Mount, where the great poet spent his last years, and at Grasmere there is Dove Cottage, the humbler home of his time of poetic vigour. In the churchyard at Grasmere, next the river, Wordsworth was buried. Rydal Mount is on the northern buttress of the great defile between Nab Scar and Loughrigg Fell. 2d 7 —en ee a . —" = @ eo | ° ° 2° ¢ 2:0 « * Ne iia i ee end i = 2 PN — - . ‘" > Bae feoPe ied = —_— a ee oe ee | 7 LA OC Ot UH ivss els Joe ee PO a 4 A 4 tite be Pr AAPL Led - og eres Ta « A oe 6 @6 hoe eared ; — - oe oe ot) on! A +4 i. th J hy re at ey VJ SA barre J. oe iene Py aches SFE Tt . a et eae mex ocr) * - e a a ny ee nia) Re 7 * TOTS Cera os a rte $rist . ean rf 74 oe . 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[as a eee - A | oF « J ee et ae oe ee a a ee ee eeWindermere, Grasmere & Rydal It commands a fine vista of Windermere toward the noon, and of the mountains to Bowfell and the Langdale Pikes for sunrise and sunset lights. A poet could not have chosen a finer position. It is uplifted among the woodlands; it stands out below the crags. ‘‘ Wordsworth’s Walk” towards Grasmere has great esteem with walkers ; it com- mands magnificent views. ‘To reach it, walk past Rydal Mount, turn at right angles in front of Hart Head Farm, and the way cannot be missed. Rydal Mount is exposed to storm and wind. It is piteous to note that the aged poet was troubled by damp walls, poor roof, and smoking chimneys. He had to intimate to Rydal Hall, in rather strong terms, his intention to leave unless repairs were forthcoming. Rydal Mere, past which the road to Grasmere runs, is one of our smallest lakes. It is less than a mile in length, with marshy tongues and bays where the water-lily opens its golden heart to the sunshine. Rydal is a noisy road in summer—a ribbon of black tar-glass through one of Nature’s most richly-coloured scenes. An outcrop of rock between road and lake is known, on no great authority, as ‘* Wordsworth’s Seat.” ‘The poet, however, preferred locomotion when in the throes 29 ———— si in en cmi— iilimemi E ea thts LJ . hee Polat ‘4 iG ri COOO TO Dea UOee ae a Oe Teo oe oe ee en eh TL ee TErltltle St sl ele ee TIT sete 5 te ee pesee PO er chee coasters a Peat Maree sa) sot: fh Youn UO OBA ot IF . AY thy ret he LT re bate oe eae shies beatecatatat-Atsidctbatebet Hu iineiede beets tient RM os eo Be oe tet, * é ° oe 6 a¢ ar aP lel ee + + . As eee ee eh ey «4°? 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Sata Ler + . we re OA i od 9 ¢ ahd ed * _ hd ed pe Pe Dae Sa a te se a él ror a a Cet se oad eed ee Pee ee be ae Mu yl ADOC UO UL UOC OuUtT * S 9,44 oa dg a*,* ‘ + et * bd * a Pert Ft oC LON fered a Car et | ++ a Pe: Pd bs tad 48,° - bd * ha Ln Losedeteteteregrreerpbereqeperesi-tateneterpe tote a i od va be a Ne 1" a ag ar at! i beh a eet tet eer rpr rr 648.4 4 Per tt Ft eer ad be Sd Ot . , ot Ps bbs s ‘ ATS * —' 4 + A fa er hd SA, ao 7 LL On a it ote oY Pos Al A dt Pt Yd “f ry reel ee eu eee eo SPL ey +t + 6 + eet Ph be 'P Si LAY el - a ia oe ee "a crt Serene etrneceas hod aed i Ot Crd Se . ar 4 a 7. <4 4 4 4 6 4 ale a eee Pere | hy et ‘4 bpd 4:0; 6,4, 0,4,%, * ee ak Pe Pee . a U we a so e000) 0,9. 9 19,95? 9010.6: 074°, 0,010 010. © S10i0 | 4, . t , , lw mane : 8 Pe J WADLER SLRLD Wh era oR ore de ree ‘ * M rn Bs . yy or he et hehe | bee OE Phe ba bees ele A % 243 oe. - a b | + «8 *.4,* t+ oa 0 o * Windermere, Grasmere & Rydal of literary composition. ‘“ Boo, boo, boo,” said the old dales-woman ; “‘ mappen six or eight steps forret, turn roond, then boo, boo, boo, and the same back again. I tell ye, it was his sister Dorothy that wrote it all down. She was the poeter, nut him.” However, we can give true honour to the lifetime secretary, guide, and adviser without disparaging the genius of the master. The view from the “ Seat” across the rippling lake to the island crowned with alder, rowan, larch, and pine is glorious. It is England at its best—in- describable. ‘Those trees were formerly a nesting- place of great herons, which fished the becks and bays round the lake. Half a century ago the last pair decided to leave their ancestral nesting-place. Now there is no heronry on this side the Lake Country nearer than Whitestock, over the hills west of Newby Bridge. A couple of miles forward and Grasmere opens out beyond the second gorge of Rothay. Here is more of green basin, and a mere incident of crags, compared with Rydal. ‘The orey-walled village stands on a pretty level, well away from the lake. Grasmere has one islet; it is a green flowing knoll with an old barn and a few saplings of trees. Grasmere is a haunt of men and women, not of 30‘ ya . nC Peps ta * eh } a. oe | Ce site 6 ta.4* ee? * rieiFf tig ieinkspet . * ’ ee J - eh Ao . i a eh rary t+ sis iii ‘behot' a - * are meee Par toh | sf ty +e : oe | = i 7 rid + ry of 7. ma} : eh * 4.4 e+ i [ ar ei¢6 int i} ad el ‘ ete Te Dt bed * * . = iri: * SOLU ieheree treo ast eh ee, siecle ieee: S ee Tht he" Peet er es Rp ere reece ae *, "4 rhs Se A vt AJ 2 +4 = bs Pd * a e+e +t @ @ 7 a) piaehesrhcnt be ¥ t ? 059,05 0,0.0)° “4 Oe em ort 7 eee A minted Par Pars * - Ute POCO yi * 4% 6) Par Sere PO Oter | & +16 + +*\* 4 on ook! ek ek 7 B1é4.2 ¢,¢e)\¢ #,%,¢,7,° * rs Sear: i" * & & ++ 4 < oa. «+ Si a 4 ot "hte? Ps “oot telaieies ye St Mi _ +~ ** a as P i. a Oe By aed > > * tr art ret #* 2 4 47) oi¢.4 6.6 ‘ ca ‘ oe DUNGEON GHYLL FORCE, GREAT LANGDALE A remarkable cove into which the stream falls like a silver vell. ae : a | * —_ oe ee - 4 A a. ab bjehegeda: ae — rene Fi’ D ri eo", a) ‘ i ) Terese 7 i] oe a dd ha a a a a it ae hes ls a wae; ie staan dating! Wy | - a od Poy oe _ * a * 4 * a * ~ * 4 vpeerert ie | on ay ** a’ +9 * 4 4 a 4 *b eo 4 | ae: Soren hd od et + a rs M 7 ata a ebe Ld n Ps > ae. J 7 aa + | & © @&s ee Se aaa eat sd tet a’ aad um ia te a ah *4°4 47s + «4. *.¢ a a eth 2 i *-- a et Pree od = m1 Hi be | ae ae | ae Ft *.* ¢ @. 6 soe ee Rhee a 5 > his a a td Sa al Sy et ed Pa tae POD oor Sa cd 7 ’ _ S WY a oro a ae'ey* tt | I a . ee * * #4 . J +behaee see a a 5 aMyehele Sehr rs Ur bee: rs i ) ee a | A er Cs a 7 * #4* Pr ee + an + 5 **? “Set srsere pov retin ere * > . a 5 wr roe he eco ees a oe a a ee ‘ = * * + dled aed a Se T 5 +. . # + F n r a - m a oe oe ee ee te. ST ee en ee ee eeon! oe ST) i a) ; 13 rt eeotru IU BPS Sh tie y Lie AH he reat if fhe Het he oy Bs Paani pes Peatestse at Meme bee sti Cl ac * * see +e 2 ees Windermere, Grasmere & Rydal poets and philosophers alone. Few artists have caught the wandering spirit of this vale. ‘The reflections and living shades on the lake batfile brush and pen alike. Grasmere’s church amid the yews is associated with every stage of existence in village and dale. The folks here cling to the land. Here comes the | baptism of the new-born infant; a few years on ) the bairn toddles in the Rush-bearing behind the | banner of St. Oswald and the fair sheet borne by i maids. The baby hands carry emblems from the lake meadows—crimson of loosestrife, gold and purple of iris, cream-white of meadowsweet. ‘The bells of Grasmere ring out for confirmation, ring in the hour of marriage. And while the genera- tions repeat, there is slow passing of the old, a sad. procession of weary feet which used to trip lightly | to the music of the Rothay. | Wordsworth, his wife and sister, lie buried here ; og a plain headstone records names and years. Near by is the grave of Hartley Coleridge, the gay whimsical fellow who might have been a poet had 3 he learnt the lesson of application. Hartley enter- ig tained Grasmere ale-bibbers with excellent recita- tions, and won their hearts. ‘They believe still that he had more poetry in his fingers than frosty 31 swirl + OCT woth Shr <2 oe . i > MEA Neyo ae es Poh mate rh Ms wo Pity ave. * a ‘. Ja ai a a eet ir be orp athe “ . ar ss ae = ot es * Ps A ont j re BUH br ore ett bee debt ' PIT 3 WSCM WN MOST everett oy Soa sc A a a RR = - —— < + \*.* ) +) Fie, ee 4" a re. J a ID OUIN Awe EPCS Cas be at te LC use he teasaee OCF ot ot Ory + #4 Pits o a ore Per wo ert et. Pete Soe ie eiehtia e+, & 4,6 6,¢ © Pet ta whe Paetoe ot of tthe ba. aC or a DEST et SE pe er ee Tee ak ee ee te 3h eae * seta lebertiets et ee ea TA rerio sh sLathtadithta ieeadapeetehb ipa tn ctib dn lp Al beds airivesincatadrisks ited 9) bnintedisdans bo tiel Mabey or tl i Fed eT Ce eter ys od dha es er i St Set bh: 7 | ae eee ; er tce +e 4 yt Nf sr toidleitan, *o°i tele es ORse lath 4 Ch ea reer ae writ lelsbe la, pak ejebeylaieta}ats} obese hebatnensbnty woe Wt og oe ee “+-— , pee be ek. Pe + YS + Pt tt bf a Spterrtcisiel teense ireesejes, —— - nt) OCG be td oe . rie Ps " ‘ PO ed ae i : + te She be} E , . i" A va wre 447s eee): a0 wh 7 a ba REO See eG Meee A a*,* i+ * He DOL Ps S:é'a" Part ty . - . he ee Vea +4\¢ »* 4.% WA RAG Ps att hd be ‘ me oe es os Ad Hore vi Seo et tc pr oe Por ore be | es ee oe fg a * ee *,° PT Ae + meeqrze tts By 4 A red i> + he o*ntat.ty at ~ ee et a | wR by Ce et | > ROL aes + + bo e*,* i ore Te 44 * eb e.4 4 ‘a er Pe ie OUR QOD fet PP LAU POURS ’ i $+ 4 ST be we eet ae hs | Ps -?a . et Pe ee > #2 4 6 4 04% 6 a 4 Ps Fad ad a a A a | a ORG 7 a Pee “Le A SPO PD 4° rebehebred baa ACAD LA PLsUN 20s 2m Pep ocatrep led barb ttrentn , - - J Co a o.* Oe be by ae eee ore KEBAALUOC or peers ee oe Cn ‘ + * Whe we ey e tet oe a s* [ an ad rire ae! “++}- Sd ea elcle ® myer ,s A Ney ATOUK YK J oe - Se ee tN ere PO Ua CT * & hie a. & * et Ce ee ’ 4 bd eee > ree ee Oe ee Oe rar Ot =. re bated - el Ps yt * ae ee | ar act dS * “ | ye er Pats 00 * 1 Windermere, Grasmere & Rydal Wordsworth had in all his bones. But it was the old laureate who tried to make a man of the way- ward ‘“‘always-boy,” and kept him from sliding into the abyss. When Hartley was buried the rently that Hartley had gone before—all that the world _ aged William stood by and grieved J stood for had grown old and must follow. I must hark back to the Rush-bearing at Gras- mere, now an annual festival observed on the Saturday nearest St. Oswald's day. In the old times our dales churches had floors of beaten earth or round paving-stones. ‘These were chill for the feet of worshippers 1n winter, so the parish turned out to cut rushes and to strew the floor to a com- fortable depth. At Grasmere, Ambleside, and Langdale this custom is proved from church- wardens’ accounts. ‘The work was a ‘ church boon,” but there was a trifling disbursement, even in the seventeenth century, for “ drink for rush- 54 bearers.” When the churches adopted comfortable wood floors the old custom fell away. Langdale lost it altogether, but Grasmere and its daughter ehurch at Ambleside retained the ceremonial. Urs- wick in Furness has also endeavoured to revive the pretty custom. ‘To-day the children weave their offerings into baskets and chalices, into designs such 4 >— ~ +) ° ad a oe i a4 ~ A H © OP ed td ot ge - a + : 7 . a . > 3 4 aaa et Se ee 4 TG i 2. i* td ‘ a" eam tT ee nee i. are? = rhs * eo AOA GE ie ee. St an eed soe Sate bee Pot cn oT + 4 a te Ee Ame pated) ~ LJ I (Wee i Ae wt a at a aa ert oad g ee *«, te - —— 7 toe os ort oe * a LJ cs > 4 P ro Tou rs AAT * ++ bs VA VOU SO UAAGHA: tinteelatershyeletese}s eee +44 4 * ale a i a) ae seid 7 aa a UU ao a7 ore tee x sero ** Be) iste h-fet ‘hae ba hal eee tite ys Cras he CeO Peles os n he ee $5 °.°1°,2- 218 TTT RO i - Tobsiaisetionheie a re 14 7 eT yi 1 Fel} ss perce ry ** 4 4+ ¢ * e244 6 Poet PTT 4 EST ite ee A f° I elete 4*,* 7 aoe Lea! ' Pe ed +44 ii ba bd | myo rs te PRR YS) oe! a . ott La. et ieca) Lao. a” a, ¥ . "a, ad y “el : a = Pe ial / allerdate «f ae - pee nee ae ee STONE BRIDGE IN LITTLE LANGDALE nat vay 4 a! ! ys? . Ft= 7 : Fd a 5 Pd 6 Pag 4 oa a. + * 6 ae 7 ‘4 ‘ Bala? . Hu a “we Leen, ba ot bs + - ‘hs + 4 * i 6 Fhe forepepeterey ot 3 ye ba De tt Sy ‘ +? a o o A a Ye dees ‘4 . *-* 4s a*,4 a LJ a 3 . a * e* err: a te #,* | bk ee eee rd a é A tt lod io _ + 7 a) a. ee oe | ed yy + Ps Ps mt ‘+ wr *ee rs os a * * + ee a + #14 ee. a , * PP ’ an a | +4 ees 7 a | ad bt oe a | rf | he es bd be .. or Ca a ‘ bd a 2 2 oy oe ee’ ee rs a Cd Fi 4 eae | a ‘ ip whe a . Se | ee | a. * : ae ay es a ore +5 Ar no et te oe oe * a ~retetierer ee ee . eth erty be a 2 *. & a4 5 a Fed Pn ae 4 hh DG oe tet oa J. ee oer of “ + ri mr Ls as re “+ +Windermere, Grasmere & Rydal as Moses cradled among the bulrushes, the serpent and the harp. At Grasmere every child in the procession receives a new penny and a chunk of the famous local gingerbread, which used to be baked in old Sally’s kitchen at the lych-gate. The room over her kitchen was large enough, in Words- worth’s time, to serve as Grasmere’s school. After the Rush-bearing there is wrestling and other sports for the men, and a dance for all. One ancient vicar was zealous that music and capering should not continue into the Sabbath. Ata quarter to twelve his butler appeared in the dance room, bowed to the single musician, and said affably : ‘The Vicar’s compliments, sir, and will you oblige him with the loan of your fiddle bow ?” So deprived, the company broke up, and the old fiddler had his property returned in time to play the Rush-bearing tune and the hymn which Charles Lloyd, curate at Langdale, wrote for the Ambleside ceremony. Beyond Grasmere, the Rothay breaks into a dozen streams, coming from minor dales. Up Easedale there is a tarn worth seeing about three miles from the village ; half-way there 1s a cataract, Sour Milk Ghyll, which in wet weather is a mighty sight and sound. The Far Kasedale Beck is much 33 Cc et ek ek ae ad bd. . + hee i? Pd LL tree ed a breldtitisderers bial et Spas gate et aletoter | #4 A | *, eek itis 3g rere s stg 8 60 ety! baer pne Pee Par corey or Os RSTO GAT the NTC R TCs eres) — + c rr wearers ti dpepetet rah ete Pp Li © oe Pore ne le ef: rere 7 of ed Att ie} ieee Te, era) *.*% > a tor) te ! { AT %s RP IOUT eet tT Wate bap Myre rcre soe a to / + AMOR Giy Sat hee sce As bf fH bay PTF a4 ‘ [sled derlebeitie leis bedetieieietetet os a) Peevrt rt eet fa Othe SOOT iAP ee HH * Se : Ss as 4 i ca ele a od bet oe ey rd athiberebrtpert tae acts epnistatatsyere Rape teteestette pe reer e.¢. Se ere ; a a re Pee bord mee . hae) : oa] eh? , F " ¢ e en ; e? teehee: eo th *ite. - ants brit as Pra BS ER Tore ee Oc OUUTC Cua vebslsstmcbtabadblatahieleeetetstetsitinternrst ta Batt tat gett " o . eft ofoe a “ aj i a ad ee edt Tt ae og +. Sas 4 et Zs 4 8) « 5 . at ee . a , 4 ‘i whe - . a per Bt) re en * + ‘i a a oe ee Ae UFalatetytereeny? ; " ORT rn ee | Lith seueye fat) Bs SAAS 4 +s Mette t : oemrersterintg indie . ire a",*, da bike 7 as a hh a"s Fe ne Pe © be Pod a i da POO os os* Ast ot a et a) o - mt hone Sete att: Lat > i oh od ° he ett re Ts : ee LO | rte | Ha be eg be) Via “yi 4° aa", *Ts* eit ti i Wet ee oe ee ry * oy o . a 4 rs Pe aay | t We A id MOE ba 4 ‘ a tt a Pe eee bes at bd a of ed Ue ow wwe . og, We Pe PTE be Oe ft 6°s*,*) + oie ay Ts) roa et we SR ROU #4 *-4 * * pees aeee | Te et Pt Wt hs a os - rn 4.,5,6-6 oe a *ee ett Pw ere we br Lo hor or eee) + " + oe: TUOOM Brose be tree OU oe + be + « +,+* . th a a oe ee oo | | * *a « a ‘ida eo Mf p AA RADC *1*,* rire et | -? sas ae é S426 . ae ea 7 pee | eee + © hs ef be a a! Pe ek * +4 es Or te ‘ 7 “,* ad 7 . ote “+ — * os * ‘fe Fy By Pt) abet | Se DiN + 7 a ha Poe Ve 4 PT a = he _ i a a . oy Ja Pca be bene aaah ae laf beiieh eis UPLRCIL e be bl beh Gk wie ree ere eke ee we , Lr WA Oka IL = ba ede be ee LO by bey bd we be er Bee Pe Lae ee hs ert Pd Me epee AP es AP +\* bq SA ATO, be he eet Ms 4*,*.* ee yh . oo a “4 tg Pe et Pe a Pe + a tee er ALATA * Windermere, Grasmere & Rydal quieter ; one walks its length toward Rosthwaite in Borrowdale, taking chance in mist and snow of going astray about the head of Greenup Ghyll, and walking cheerfully down to Wythburn, miles from the appointed place. Itis conceded that the main spring of the Rothay is on Seat Sandal, that the stream rattles down the Raise, past the cairn where lie the bones of Dunmail, the last king of rocky Cumberland. Between Seat Sandal and Fairfield, on the north-east side of the dale of Grasmere, is Tongue Ghyll, where in old days there was a pretty waterfall. ‘The gorge, how- ever, has been entirely spoilt by the Manchester aqueduct from Thirlmere. These engineering works are rather obvious down the entire wall of the Rothay Valley from Seat Sandal to Wansfell, and across Troutbeck to Moorhow. Culverts and tips are, however, gradually withdrawing behind larch and fir plantations. The other great arm which cleaves from the head of Windermere into the mountains is the vale of Brathay. For some half-mile Rothay and Brathay come as one stream. ‘The Rothay from the north is a typical trout river, with miles of bright pools alternating with dancing shallows. The Brathay, however, passes through a series of 4ee a oy * if Rae Set thy aera LJ Lire S an ry —_ A ely a == : rs mths mye S| * A bd am | ae ie on ¢ WOCOOr roraes Fre erat oo + + Ps | oe Pa See a eer ks FP, Lee ope ee * + ith re + pee e6 ~- bs S mrt Tt > + *)¢ *#* state Por : * TT SL ee ot he oe *.#,*.% « Oe rote Lee | ae) e+ a rc is a J \* f & oe * +4 | wi + 4,4 4 ¢ epee BFE! 7 | a Phd POH wy * 1 el \ aes Es J sh lhe aera ee te, + * 4)% Pe Or ee ed * Papert ' > ars Ce a .eeee! erorer ~ ae . +e ro > ** ell 4 on J - a 794%, eye ro! 4 +* Lae abyrt p Shed aah re 3 + = b 4 . * S rs Ps wr bad — al 4 - Sie * 7 PEt rT Se nae hae Dat ao ] Pees | P| 7 oi fe —' 7 * 4 > ee ee, ee ee ee ee ee ee 7 a - * + r a : ” a te ed ad | i ie ait ae dla a wt a ot ee ee Se ee ie we ee ee ee ee ee ee oe ee ies Se Ai ee le a aed _* * + ~~ i ge a * . ; ¢ * -* eo ¢ 4 46% i ee - + a a ee ee Ss a ee ore + + et) oe oe - a * * -_* [ ~ oe 2 oe ~_ e+ © © a a ‘e+ *- © © + ~ o+ +e e * e © ee ee ee eee ee ee ee ee ee , Pe | ee ee Pe ee ee eee © a * 4 Oe ee ee ee ee ee & - oe = = * ++ a a 2 + a “ - oe a . a ot a oe oe a a = a ORG a mt . wed Me a 7 Sd a ‘T ‘i Sy es i + * es Na *-. rT Hi . i es | Pp * J A ed vee | th r —s _ a . ss . at ~ e* | ye rt ee yd WAU mye ha 4*.*e* ri % Ar Oret y oe Petse at Wt i hdeel WH? 2 WHO . e 1) 7.) a * + tt . 7 otha DN ka @ 6 #0. 4 oe. aT Ae a of et et og » ' * * 5 Pg " NUV.AL erristst: + cf “peta Be Ps La mee *- ; - ' VIVCQONV'! * - 4+ hte what ee ee of oo oe ee * 4,4 4&7 a 5 e + _ ** @ @ >) - > cd ee rey SH Md *4e | . . we 7 + 4,4 + ry PP 4d 7 + * " wu" ee rh res (IN \ el a a cd ed a o- —a' @ Ss > Paes — rt — oe _ ae ee a4 ie eis = @e-«4#4 a= Jeeta ae — | or ee ++ oP tt | — -_* * + + * Pe oe Seiad * .<«¢e —“~V ad a ? om — a) . 1 . ee ~—— — Ps ’ & evrpraeteer & 4,84 7 7 So a ee a Ped VW Ld a) Te ke bg ee a. a — —* Rites Ot oe a « es o a a ht ee: ae ee a 4 Ae Pehe a ae oe | i’ a *a@ * 7 *¢ Ul et be " Pa + 4“ a =| he te prrertin oe ae +h"): mae ee hk, e+, eee | hes ares + a7 Pe ee LJ — A t + peers &* » + * eit, bee ee ‘4 4 a ee ee Ps + J + ‘ a i ry . *Windermere, Grasmere & Rydal deep dark pools or “wheels” connected by slow channels. Up here come the char in late autumn. This mystery fish is decked in red and gold, handsome and dainty. Its life-story has never been fully solved. When bottom feed is plentiful in Windermere, char come near the surface. In high summer they drop into the deeps. The Brathay plain is dominated by Wetherlam, a mountain which looks very grand indeed. At Skelwith there is a short waterfall ; then the stream opens out into Elter Water. We are now near the fells, and the Langdale Pikes show their rugged glory. ‘The floor of Great Langdale, beyond Chapel Stile, is so level that after heavy rains a lake is formed. In Langdale, too, is Dungeon Ghyll, a deep fall into a dark rock basin, with chockstones lodged just where they may be considered as a roof. At the foot of Pavey Ark is Stickle Tarn, where a trout with red flesh is often taken. ‘The rock scenery round this elevated pool is glorious. The head of Great Langdale divides into many dells and gorges. There are rough mountain paths to Duddon, Esk, and Borrowdale, as well as by Rossett Ghyll to Wasdale. A stream enters Elter Water from Little Lang- 35 1 Pe S . St Fa oo . met OS Scale ig alll Sad. Sa ’ a 4 * = 3 ‘take 2 Bi i a ga eg = ‘ met) : fhe : estate Ore re P’ ; ea Meta st) @ bitiet * Ct rae Seige eto ia ror bite ié ‘oo ot nt STs fa sone 9 2 4 534 6 i " we Forest i sin bt ot rtd Coe win’ ™ a — ‘ POOR OOS Ad: ols «ie PS ESS EA Ty | et a Pe pUIe eit! o:0,086 Pr PEL taleletetnieltie is bi bi saltineiiebity : Pi rn “ it eee tot ee hen ee ghpejeteidechin tet intetedlebals bef ltiotelefenbes ‘ ee) re *~* *¢« . $s SPC efor oe bd ie i RE EL Parar oy POOnHOooe teh t.t,49)9 e) M4 te sf 4 eS : tO ae ; vs bade) be hot tee ak Mod es Ded Gre eee ar oF tt P ' Pert ihe bd OUI AS tree ab MPC trioe oo "ey, : * PRT WET ETC ray Or Srre: uf SaaS ; oF asst ta) ve } she | : ¢ 6 oie.) e. e e ae Oe Soe PE Ot he pe oe as bein ease athe ftlscoleiabeitisbetaielslzates "3 eenioe r * etter he re Toki eae ieee btititis ee nants cae 7 ee = *.¢ + Te ae) Qs - s+ ¢ | Se | r.@.* 5° +4 * 6 at bs eedoe a ee oe ee a ee Oe ee eee ee ee ee ee ee ee ee ee ee Te ee ee ee ee ee eee Eo od a ee 7a oe ae al Pee F ) Fe Pig Ot ee Re Fae Yk Pe oe o Windermere, Grasmere & Rydal dale, bounding down a rocky cascade at Colwith. It brings the floods from Blea Tarn, beside which is the “House of the Solitary” mentioned in Wordsworth’s “ Prelude,” and from Little Lang- dale Tarn, a mere with so little distinction that one 1s apt to forget its existence. a il eee ee ee | a | @i4*h*,*+ « ha te eS Le tet Ber, ma de oe be » + * OR OTe Pr we bP ee be be 4 o76°,*,> i > i oad What HS 4 eu sores s + UN Se ess * . } Ce re SPU OL This completes our survey of the Windermere 3 5 i Oe yo Ce Stor ey a Me ore a baa" A * system of lakes and dales. To the tourist the ae" es a + Te be whole countryside lies open, served by excellent roads, by a wonderful variety of paths and tracks, 4 CM ior oe w hear tt ee and with first-class accommodation at every central AAC point. Such secluded places as Little Langdale, however, must not be expected to show a first-class a i) io 4 +e 6 6 h* 6 at Ted s*,* : ca *heia | 7 * 4 Sd ed a fy Baty i é ae a, ‘ ao @ Fs * “et s*Pa* i eee e4.4 + hotel, but wayside inns are often excellent in a clean primitive fashion. * * + .¢ rl 4 aed a aed ead Go | Now we journey northward on the great road from Windermere to Keswick. From Ambleside the route runs easily to Grasmere, then comes * +4 ese b a , a be he by bee | ee at oe: ‘“‘the long ascent of Dunmail Raise,” a pass rising to 782 feet above the sea. Two miles beyond is Thirlmere, a reservoir-lake, which can be passed at speed, and five miles further there is Derwentwater and Keswick. . r a . a RIN SAA APRATLIS FUN IUIOE RJA S11 AICS PUR SULLA USE MESES LT Loa SCR ES oC + ee baatn bt 6 86 6 Pet Pe be ee ‘ ; a oe Pte | 46 654,4°.* © + Fe & oe? Pet tT rhe ht Pe HUM a A ease et bee an | hae AOTC A Es ° Laereta’.?,- 4 ‘ . ot As “e rs hor | a ne wt 5A A i a be rt) opener rr ti ee oe or te ar me a Pee i ee Pe * * «& «¢ $166 bes 6 See to oe Seer or ht he ae bebe ee ee ee es a Ag et co + + a ~ ill * * 7 * haute br Ore ead Ck LC be bn od bee ee be eat ee bed 4 . A eon or ote we Le 1 eee et oe s ww Shear Fart IS " o 4 ; oI - Ps + + a 2 ad a rs “ -< * + a -_ + m Ps ~ ~ - m ad s a a ie Ps . = | ed * #4 + @ * -s 4 * @¢ aa > * ey al J ileal = ~~ = ed i iia i f + > © - + 6ere 7 ib Bey we ety ee as ae “ = = iit ce | ] tem me ete a ~ 7 et be COS sid # #le Ni a and is mr 4 ri + epee) a *\* 4 + 1 7 64 + of si ease es) oT Fi bP : art * 7 | t‘~« 4 ST . ee Ree * + Pa * an of , bel rete : *) titi Sar ee rere Sat IT er +o ea Art re i ie oe ‘ Ps phirteliegliiedpivnbtiiet. eh eee ok a tate at) Pleat ive J ara Py an fm al r abe T ' ae a tte i , HE Sete © & 4 * arr * ha en kon. be thet a eee eS a areryr A ** ar a + . + ta * ~ ei 6) a” +.-. * ¢ *.4) 4.4 er 2 es rt Phe + 2. oe ee eee * bad +i+ @ 4 * ot tpt ied STP I EB ror be as + eis 7 * 4 $4 Of Se Y o =i? ++. F.* at | a ~ H [had H . i * P -/ J ol ret Perars | aa rf ae rf Por tre Sarre ees] C b 6 Paha a heer atat= F + - +--+ ‘ - - a oe — P - — a ee ee & > Se eee li a ae oe re ie aed rs a. a - + a ee ee a : . | + + * a Pt a “+ « **+ « # - Ca + * oe | te) ea a “tee er » Ss ee ee i Sa rs oe ee ee oe ee ee a a ee a - a a a + . i a ee ** + «+ ——* * * + a oe a. ee eee ee a * ® ° * Se . a « a ++ + Fa ~-— + SS a e-= * " . = . . he ie ae be hd bs hore ot | i '* LI b | o ns 4 Perarir i nau ‘ av - ‘4 ° . oa Sal ne *, at ye! ' ie be ni o - i - hg ‘i a as a fA Ce. eat ‘as g* a rer a ‘ Sree Lh Pe Oe re iH a) + * fae a! ~~ Ot ‘eo . . . we * \' «& UL MA on: +o «4 ty 4 a bk} + nie wm —-— a ‘ys! ad ha o i ae * Ps + — ' : * at - ao ca 4 ans a . 4 a: a * ry ‘ 5” ” + 4 +. X 7 ae | = de eg | * Fe eg yy | i ee ils a * &4 § ok Sa Si ee ee ee) | lie ited ~~ «+ ie 7 a * * a * vi UR akg ° i MF ss 7 oo Ld 7 — i **« 4 | ay a liad _- + & + ad Sel 2.*,*4 * + ~~ se =~ 44 + > ee , ee | alia J sy, re ed eal a * +2 Pde) ~ Ce dd ae nz. Sie die) ++ ** ** ee ee eee —_— +s + * ** | - a s or] re + « > ra ri a. . ‘9 > % ** IERW JOOD-TIME from Grange Bridge 'ehe . o era pertesinir a * +4 tte 4.@ @.*,4 * ‘i ae ee : * | Be r a J ie | > 4 @%4 a i ed Sel *- @# cae s @# J ~ dbie* er ered Se or eat ri od rs rae , be lie ~ es +e + - + « a eh oer eed ri + : — i a ee i i i al — i ee) -“*-* ee ee oe oe we < — aoee CHAPTER II DERWENTWATER, BASSENTHWAITE, THIRLMERE, & THE CUMBERLAND DALES; SKIDDAW; THE JOHN PEEL COUNTRY HE wise man ponders whether the beauty of Derwentwater exceeds that of Windermere and Ullswater. ‘The wiser one denies any simi- larity on which definite judgment can be based. There is an open-ended glory about Derwentwater which is not matched on the river-lakes. If the flood ever returns as a permanent institution, the long lake which will then extend from the jaws of Borrowdale to Ouse Bridge will have to be re- considered. It will not be more, but rather less beautiful. Derwentwater has ancient lore. On the island named after him to this day, St. Herbert had a hermit’s cell and school. He was a friend of Cuthbert of Lindisfarne, and each prayed in his old age that on dying he might not leave his com- rade without comfort. Cuthbert had the first call from the Angel of Death. The same afternoon Herbert, among his pupils on Derwentwater, felt 37 a ee a a “ot SL FS bi na 2 es j «! Soe eal = Wi i eed Ae bes, Cok See sé # ore a b*t Hi ble o. a + #i4 4" - b brene hy | er wees aren " —— Porte tl CTT * Reese, is mel y penis + SMIPTwuLO lo. Ere SET b at bees bees S yieets Parte Pia ot Tw hA ee ar Pe eth at es bre bh or DPLESP STM MORON hatte Soees oie Te crtm Ter reo sa aa Ad a8 Pesrerrevrer cy i + re * * & rary J + @ *i* rr? 4 e466 Piha, A, 4 ese eis Marae ot leisibbesbaiolonasbeslaudinetedietecg Par er yo er et spetieesenat, | ero vee oles a tearhelsteelbeateth es $4204 5 ede ed * Po. RS Mate ree ee 41°40," ret PE Th me ee einen nil cancels a tats * 4+ + | rt ts Ao hy et) Get ed teed et ot +,%,° te @e @ . seit a 9 ePeP CIC CS hc arts bl) ae eR OUR TUL Wt he hia P SATE OO SSDS OCS 19? ws eae Pe hd be tt 7 rr rhe vA, a. et atit tit, , se ; os Te" ‘ a! +f 7 esti tetsfe} Snorer OCT Or .bei OG . vba AA ee. fe a + 7 . at Feet tatet st Pet ee ye é > “ it rae Oe oe oe . * awe Prter wee rad 4 ri A nd or | * + +” a POP ree tae | t« 7 * * a*#eee we « s*4* a oe *,* i ' * i ae oe”, *,%s*s* + tt bby ras Dore PO Curr ee he won hd be ee ic ri *.@*,* 47," : ante! Ta anette ty im teetrrrertigtet teteistitetnters steerer iste ats Tinyy init #0 oe bb gp eie 7g *, 84.4, O87 ea Pkt eae 4 oe RICA Tot) oe | ia L ‘ * . ,* 44 & ¥ Sa J p . A i epered Lede i. Pt ee abies “a 44 an | aa ee . ‘ a & *)4,% 4 OT te * 4 a" Pee be See eM See eee od, he re ey D c af eer a7 ~ tye " — utd ada ial ' ee eed eree' Sam \, eu" wT ‘A, U t 7 - a y - H t a: t ee ht es AK 7. qhbtr : a Ff \ Pe bd 5° 7 "6 re is bd Pe Te ba ie ed tae hd , a 3 oe ee Se . Ps ae) Cn 10,9276, 8'§ 6 oa, 6,4 §” Pl PPO Bt Ee rhe Phe br beh ee, we ee a ee “rey a oe ee . wea $s * it bet . aa * + ae ee ee ne TTI 7 at Tt eee Pee er bt oy oor ot tL ot ar Yio et A ee Oe Le ee ee *-¢- cs * a. - _ bah iu . > wa. - is.t *# i thes i ,t * * — ‘hi ate bo 4 A ye he ee 2 De : - het hed ft be | " A ite & ae eek be oe er ae we Pe p Gr peo oe NRRL RTLRIE SCR MU CRR HSER SOUR ION Le SDC ae od ahr be beet ne Geer a ae Ce Ot Se Phe bbe , . ee a at ee % 5 a. Derwentwater & the a great change, and faded out of life to join his old comrade above. For centuries pilgrims came to the shrine of St. Herbert. ‘There was a proper wharf on the Keswick shore, and booths where silversmiths cast small relics to be placed on the shrine of the rough little chapel and then carried home. Derwentwater was in the highway of history. Cockermouth with its castle, the port of Working- ton. the nearest access to the Isle of Man, North Ireland and Galloway, sent much traffic this way, for the roads were easy and the passes low. Mary, the ill-fated Queen of Scots, must have travelled near on her way to imprisonment at Castle Bolton in Wensleydale. About this period Derwentwater was a busy mining centre. Styrian miners, under Daniel Hochstetter, opened up the mineral treasures of Newlands. The riches of lead and copper, silver and gold, attracted avaricious Eliza- beth. As all mines of silver and gold are Crown property, she claimed Newlands. In the end the Duke of Suffolk staved off the royal attack ; so long as gold and silver were adjuncts to humbler ores the mines were to remain in the possession of the subject. This mining activity wiped out the Lake- 35+ rt | 7 ee 528 ay —_——S ee ae Sie - 7. ar eon] if a ete tae ae ‘ he te it Daa o rae) © sie.6 ‘ UR | pa AL + 54.57. %:¢ : Oras rs cd Sa et +4 +4, CS Pt Pa be Sea tT Ps * rset ators cere os epee I aT Mae Pry evee ry Po ror cee tora os + i Lr .c. e bats vr Sites cette, PPC RCe Te rey ee A Pe 4 PY : ad red bt he PT. * oI arotrelens htt beat POO? rae rs te $ ae ee ee | *+ baie eee One as By an) rere aba ih *+ tM | tN te Oo OD : a ae} ee . fd ~*~ cu a. P| ) Pa 4 Juror ‘a sou91 4! tPA To is ee Pe hee + i 2 tetris * * ¢ + *.*7 Fi! re rerete + EL Fg | * : eam t4 el i td - ca J a rs CJ Pot of rt 4°37s* cower yt ts et os be} aa roe * * + 4 ¢eeiee ° + +4 & 7 + ae Teed + an " i | * 4 4:9 - - - - ‘* i. Pa. ns Seeree wa TTT EE ad § Fel Sh A r Pe oe ‘ a a - ~ a bj * ee ee ee ese are ce) Gg . a —, Ps , nt eaal 0 el i Nate al a ee es ++ * ee. ee ie ie te i i i To ot ee Tonnes Lo il na ee ner CN ®,¢ Pe + oatatetatstatang teers ye ye Lee a eer a +4 * #4 $4 ee 8° ed J se * oe os 7 ~ + + a Noe ed eo al od oe Le 7S + J : ae * + "7" a . tt, — Fi oe ee ee ae ee in oy - * i ee r - + * ot a ‘ A OI * oe SEB RCD) oe a oe | *~h & 4 4 Se ete ‘4 rn } ‘ jy. * rer ta | s ree tense ae *. a) om LANGDALE PIKES AND MILL GHYLL rs . ee Je etorretererrer tir Pe oie 4% + + ‘e* a r ebet* [ttt a4 Se) Peg oe hy he nd ta a * ‘i + cnt Wet a a a PJohn Peel Country country forests. The Cumberland coal deposits were still unknown, and the hearth of the smelter was fired with wood charcoal. Into the smoking works by the Greta went the ancient forest of the fells. Ore was carried to Langstrath, Grasmere, and Langdale to be smelted on open hearths. To-day one looks with pain across leagues of bleak mountain side which must have been covered with timber. It is hard indeed to forgive the old profit-grabbing lords and their miners. ‘lhe great activity of the mines came to an end ere Cromwell’s time, when the smelteries were wondered at as ancient and extensive ruins. Derwentwater gave title to that ill-fated earl who, at the gibe of a woman, left his castle at Dilston in Tyneside to join the futile Jacobite rising of 1715. ‘This venture ended in the uncon- ditional surrender of an army at Preston and in death on the scaffold for Francis, Karl of Derwent- water. So unwilling was the peer to take the field that his furious wife demanded that he should give up his sword to her, to be drawn by a woman in the rightful cause. ‘To save such a stain on his honour, Francis of the yellow hair mounted his horse of dapple-grey and hoisted the fatal banner. After the earl’s capture the countess tried to 39 ‘7 * * iin llallad __ _ Sihas nei = La, a : — eee” Bae) + So * ~~ ee ‘dh : MF OO , Laie / J «+ erO Peek, SE HEOU yy or. SUC TTP eek . sitisininlepadgitisidganpintellt ‘ . YENI peyre ere fa aE “ a . . ; n rrr ERIC SFE SUR POT LIT Ot DT CCH ICC Gt isnt atte rarer neue 4 IO Lar ae bt bras CEO LeU Pe rer race sue Me Oe te te PCCM by be bet tr oe hs he DEE OE Oe Ot Se OT Deed oe ee GE rhe hae a) ot be bitie were vee 4° 47)°1°.¢ © 6) i! POO ie carrer 4 The a th inibgdbojeiaiatabanlastiniesedindacs bofatielatajeqiebabetie-d-f-bbtat eiptebotinidbetatess pintriat-s-gitettebariobtiy eH PR OTH ER SEH oO he +; + s e+ 4) + 4i1¢,°)%, hae .e a AMES CMI RCs Meroe ety i ay . —_ an —— ‘ J é ee Pee *,".*b oe be bt te a ele * PS UOUSE UT tire RETR ee tertoerer ae ‘e Mr ie waded tr er ee ered SPar ee ees he G ok Oe OP GE at eae ee he ryt Ochs Pete sate het Oe rs < “ te a iT * * Te te ae en Y yeti a ot veheradaledabettabetefhltisieisbnettopetetedticecmtbiebey tate} s _— “ in = te ca Slee a et a _ 7 7 am es rye Or t's @ head ahe whe we hi z oe . ee ,. ‘7 A 7 oe " & 47,7) +) « a* rs ae 7 a + Ms Lah BC Seay 574 ben Cota Mee oe ae a Ct Pe Py ot oe Ld] Ag Ped es *-¢ GAL Gal ee UE ot : said bi syrpete detest: ay rh a ete s . . Mm c +s toe * bee & ‘ ld a bg Ps ‘ 4 nt big | rt * ~ J. EOGULT HGS MEESESa Loa Sebo ahd sd tl aCe) be oe ee - a Pe oe a a! oe iat Wat be Se a 7 ‘a a ee ae @ @.<*)* -s ‘ * a ~pdoa O*gr ght bce LP ee run. n LT oo r "yet Si be TTT . mM et by a a Ph to) Che a + i yt Of oe eae | ee & +.) 44 Pod tft ws a : ss WWLRAARAL HHS AAN > +16 hee : - hf Ww Feo SOU Mtomterrret gene 7. oe oe | + - 44 Ngt OUT AM oft oe oe oe ee ae oe | * ’ * *-* ALM. + 8 e16 | ad aed as ROC ee Ce ee Oe Oe be oe - ? a) Ge! oe * i | ee a Hed eek ™ rage let=j- Oe ee a a hed bd bd | We aura A yee oeon wt by ie a rs TA. . Pt .UOOOT + %; os «6 or) . ree oo © 6,4 666 6,006 674° + heee bby’? et 4 4 et oe be ts ro. 4*s*,' ae at pl 7 ee i te ee okt Were . 7 ran _ ‘+ be hg a + 45 a a*_4 4 Pr *ie A a es - ,.°s i a WS, ee ca ry Pie | een A a. 4° a a* Pg Phd en 8 ee Vat oe ad a cf A ae PTs nn ansaid WP aL Derwentwater & the raise money for ransom or to engineer an escape. She came to the family lodge on Derwentwater to obtain jewels. According to one story the peasants rose in wrath against the woman who had driven their lord to destruction, and she had to flee over the fells to Penrith. Another version says that the lady was close pursued by Hanoverian soldiers. and that the Keswick folk hampered their advance until she found the treasure chest. Atfter- wards she escaped by climbing a deep rift in the crags east of the lake. The place is still Lady's Rake. As she scrambled up the steep ravine her handkerchief lodged among the rocks, visible but unreachable. Up to the last generation the tourist was shown the tiny white cambric, and two Derwentwater boatmen made an Easter scramble to renew the whitewash on a great slab of rock for the coming season! The little town of Keswick has had its own commercial renown. There is a local rhyme which prays— ‘©God Almighty send His aid To Keswick and its woollen trade.” This proves that mineral interests did not entirely engross the district. [The town has still some repute as a centre for wool of mountain sheep, 40John Peel Country though surpassed by Kendal, thirty miles to the south. To many people the “ Keswick Conven- tion” stands for much. This great spiritual movement holds meetings each year in the little town, and has done something to stir the missionary and evangelistic world. Keswick had worse reputation when the great mine up Borrowdale was putting out its waggon- loads of plumbago, or wad. The Cumbrian deposit was of such purity that it could be used by apothecaries, artists, and crucible-makers practi- cally as raised. It was as valuable in relation to gold as platinum is to-day. Guards watched the shafts, searched the workers, and conducted the packs to London, but at Keswick there was great illicit trade. Jew merchants always haunted its inns, encouraging the theft of metal or the open- ing of illicit shafts. The wad “ pipes” were finally lost among the seams of Gillercombe, and supply failed. The import of cheap plumbago from Austria and British Columbia brought an end to further difficult and expensive search, Borrowdale “ black cawk ” or *‘ wad ”’ 1s never seen outside geological collections to-day. Derwentwater is merely part of a lake system. eS Bassenthwaite, a mile or so northward over the a) a'¢ == 7am . “y . - eer =a +. «4 a. + = a ?'. a. SS a Se a Fs Fil Par 77 Wi a we = te aie — + re no, Scical Ph : Py ” + r Tc) PE eM STL aN oe eG + it, rr poteqeyer eyo Pit eg * * t * tree rth 4" Ps eae on an : i | 7 et - 1 ~ ve apecel dt aeieleitte Sy wet * SNORT HTS Br 4 i 2 ‘ aif ® . a eee ie eae a eo. ot oe ‘LA ‘ te er ese G oh en) P| PO IOC ol eareiee TA OOO Coot oie ee _ + Fr eA Peo at TT + 0. 9.6)6.8.8 Sinepedabetatebstistadohardedel-fie-d-t-4-f eon ete ’ , + 4,¢ 4.4% Poe Lt a. oe ee hie 4 peat i *i ities: Crd Basestsantpestis Mit Oe ere rhs $?Wriot Hou oht tty . poh Phd bt be 8g bd Ry nu art wt on ot PEC arti a ee ei bce lata! ree Or cL Pe Per ee et oe Dae eo | Ee SE AOE ivtleiel TU - " 7? _ ° " ai net Re arP TMM PESTON Pare MCE PCE TCICYRI CTO ro rote te STI oly Se eh A i tie i ; yeletent . i wits Ltt aed 4 ae 4 ¢* - peat me aPed bas J Jt et a by tts 4+ @s ’ +? a Paes «4 4 i. Beauias ino ae oa *.*) + Ba te ee bt be rd he a Pt wer SAPS OUD OK r ‘ a he a he M eae i ae td ~ + ee Oe et he PO +s * J a r * 2s + i Shit td ed Sethe bs ied ot lth SS hlesih * bis UT iL i Fey be tithe ++ ‘ Fi | 4 ry 7. | 4 +. «,.% 6 8 6 54 ae a sO Pd bt yon 7% Ped wa) | be | a) rn or 4 ,* 4.6 ye oe OCT TOF br ha he 4 hk a i+ * + «4 44 « 4 *~* Ait pia* aa GOO AICO CO otra os ant | a | 7 — ie td he ad hte af ot DOE ew trees | Co. * * 45% ar Pt + | ee Les é ne! r 4 Fle 4 ia be be a Ye bd a | rit ioe ou fa 7 - a ae \ Saad ‘ow ee et te ys bd ee be ee ee eek ee ee ee ICY eC ~ o.¢: 440.6 674°." : ot Pg eed Pes eet de Le oe Md a ol bt be ee 4 ‘ Lr Pe rT a oe | »*, | ae et ta eee er bd be es + Ps *¢ + #4 444 wary APA re AAS detebafnjatelapecerunreerta em et te OE ba be es Gd bd * TL ee Oe ed ras oe te A Vv *as* +s¢ rs 4% a * te Pg as, a 7. ed = a= 4,4,+,4 4. ¢.*,4 . " a 6-6:4,0.0)*,? .°) as Atria eee * it Tete ? YY Wee ee ert She eT - a. 7 ee een eo * FL Ibe OR be | et ee eb bee es a ae wee Ped t "4 Ae , ht te ot * + ee eel ee ed 4 : wan ee ee 5 wr" ae " - ee ™ 4 ; t * ‘ Wet be by oe a | . i 7 @:40°A* ry tage CO Coeee aera at * + Pet Fe De ae eae bel ne oe me ie is 4-6:4° 6 459%, 0)* Derwentwater & the level meadows, is perhaps more extensive, but it is less beautiful. Derwentwater catches the glory of dawn from Skiddaw ; the radiance of full day comes over Helvellyn ; at noon there is reflec- tion of Castle, Falcon, Shepherd, and Gowder crags in succession. ‘Toward evening the sun passes beyond Bowfell and the tangled summits of the Scafells and Gables, to send down the last gleams over the ridges north of Honister. The lake is embosomed in steep and lofty fells, but its beauty is not marred by their sternness. A few years ago Keswick’s approach to its lake was a narrow lane to the boat landings and no further. Now the nation holds Crow Park, Cockshutt Wood, Castle Crag, Lord’s Island, Friar’s Crag, and a mile of bay and point scattered beyond. Much of the western shore is in Brandlehow Park. ‘This access has been ransomed entirely by voluntary and national effort. One must point out that the terms of landowners have usually been generous. An acre alongside Derwentwater is an asset to justify a fancy price. Friar’s Crag with its pines is so familiar in pictures that one views it critically as an old friend. An ancient dame of Keswick had heard much of 42be : rn rr een se 4 a 3 + » +. %@ a te ec ir Se ‘@ or SSR SPR res niece . J Pte hs Pd it * ny rete mt oT tS err + 4° a i a a Ore Seu bl a7 Steere re) | *\* rw Phy an) f + CT Ai tie oT *¢ => Hs * fy a4" 5* eat Cero “etetpeel a 7a aye + ts eae . a Ld a e 4 + J * oe * * @ *.¢ . Lr ee ns ‘ Poe dt Wy by ROI u * a.) hs "7° 01 6 Hb treet et whirl Ai ; ‘ ha | A % OFC O CRT St al , i + J rm eG - a 4 Ga a teh eae! 3° 4 salir i ate ne at —— — te Peempre abate? aA Phe ve HET Pu pit a i*.4 a Wd whee ee e re ork ate ® ee a ae ou RL . a hs RD ha SorG aA Rm eee “hee a i, Ts og tt tt Pt Foyt 4-4 in Pot oe oe Vay tg a * , oe ed hee Fs S76" sis ek* bo toes Le ee ie a* ee gy a7, os sehen se Wet tye ‘ o — ‘ayo r i re *.0is et fn Jo. oe ee eee Pe ae + Pow a? td yr | *,%? ee te - is bd at a DS reece * ae ted abt: 7% 4".° te habt hat be no Pa . ree, ne ef M pe te Fk *e ee ee i Ether? rp a athe 7 OK a it ere re * Le ASO Are LU VATUer U8 BUILT UAL thd SAA UAL SU AAALAC 4 4 “4 a ©5246. 6 o.8 '4 0: or Pe 7%, “4 Pag gt AA UR Oe! eta ba" oT ha bee all a ee ee er) +e MP) yest eos ets MUTI et" a; wee ee ASM ee eo eotb se Ue ON STi EP s+ 6 @ 2, 4,+,.6.9)8 6.4.4.6 9 "ei ¢10 6 ‘a hae J a Ps ee ee ee oe ee ae a a ill + ee ee **¢ oe te ot VTE ee ee Pe Ue he Ps ae ee a eth eihed ee 2. * 23 - P . " ot) LIU Peserepereperyiripety ea ~ + #18 614.9 4 o1650.5,%,¢5*,8 oa ee Se ee ee - ee ha be 4 na ——— r ejej *\% ~ a ++ r 7 as ty) ‘ ae he r ’ ri o eet ae be od | " Ja kc 4 es? * : + fas ‘ Ps , 4 * ¢ - 7 +P Ae ALA et 2G. ieee ‘ #6 oe + 4 « « at DAMA Ce by COT a aca se ht ee et Se Se ee a ee eee: ed ae ee ee ee ee ee a ee ee eee ee eee Pigg a et pee SG Derwentwater co the before burning petrol on the round trip to Barrow Lodge, Lodore, Brandlehow, and Portinscale. Perhaps this genial method 1s no longer in vogue. The lake is easily surveyed from these (compara- tively) large craft. Derwentwater has few shoals ; it is regular in shape, and any bay can be entered. Perhaps it is not easy to bring a motor-boat up the channel towards Lodore, but except that the walk to the main road is shortened slightly, there is no advantage in pushing against stream, and over mud and grass and reeds. The ideal method is to row across and around the mere, and to forget that many villas peep through curtains of woods. ‘There is no hamlet between lake and hills, and the Manesty mine-tips next to Brandlehow are still unsightly. There used to be a sulphur spring hereabouts, and a hot gush was discovered in the old workings. It is a pity to take boat across the lake with the object of walking back to Keswick. ‘The miles by Portin- scale or Lodore are tortured by traffic. Go out and return by boat. From a rowing boat it 1s possible to reach the islands. On some, still in private ownership, landing is not forbidden, but the public is expected to use its own shore and not to wander on private estates. 44‘i SARA - a dec he heed ‘ f) f Y ‘ flO LLLS 1 FE THE A remarkable view over town and dale. AND R, 4 4 NIW ATE DERW E A, IOWICl KK I a Ot ~e _ insistent mean ~+ ¢ bee satetitl Py +4 dk, Phys + J tivee ity oe eb msc rs ser PRG fe vy Deaton nice 4 c + 4 4" ete ‘whi *.° tr ae Ory Sia ts UG Pod et) Ay Seer ee et PUR tH seatbelts 44 6° at bree be 7 +o « ad - ** OOO Pa i Ae Sore aa see 4* + Hv TU arte tra rm ove bead ca ame * ++ . - * si 6) J +. *),*_+ CS *. fe + a rarer * 4 e:0 2 tna othe too PT ssibelbet sof efisetstdtataace te inbsinisetlotel OUR y | : oo (eehe Pee cee bd qitleleleielt 4 ~¢ = 4 et wad tg - Sd Ce * Sees 2 er. bd Ch . eet ** ieieit od | SOC ae oe ee Lat et ee oer + + 4 eb + ‘LAs. “4 ere 7 A P hd nd ee ~tyvorimr + es ‘ Ps ach Slee aoe lee, ‘Li \* a AN ‘Pere ort lot " us F er > ‘ net . ee a me ae 0 a reir _— , vs ee — ,** a a at 4 aoe 04 hed) dia a cad oe - sy wr i co ae Je: a! ss be rd Cd 1 a . meta J *,*, A ** eee ei | ou Per a be he CoC ile we ad Wi AAS J a 7 La —_ 3 a PL en o "bd ++ e¢ rhe + *% {3 ae Me ert Dee a4 Jo 7 , crrrrent a) r _ - ve Pd tf ta bs i Le | oe od Fo pe hg ey | a *.¢ **%,* b+ 208 a 4 *i #58 474 o" * ae ee ee te Pe a * * + buns - s+ +*4,4 : oe. Dd ne oe ad ed ‘ a: 7a a ed ose ay an oe te ey ** a4 te ey ALA i RT i? ee bias ahh on ed ;+ 4+ ete : cl ojo ‘ee pet eestaperer yy a be | . "pe tie eeeide ae ee et Peed ht | a i ee eS oe oe + ++ +e © OE 6 boone ** hae Wi rs te 7 oan ao ae hs es * 4 vives > a hs a 4 | . ae’ ‘ * p se , & + - 6 . 7 4 ** * on tee om he | ‘+ .. ss Cd - : PL 5 rs a. 7 4 ie a ot oe he rate SER PT F © a _ , oe eeeJohn Peel Country The ascent from Brandlehow landing to Cat- bells is steep, slippery, and woefully plain. One can endure it as a start for the long walk along the ridges, over Maiden Moor, and away to Honister Pass, or to reach the old miners’ path which crosses the saddle of Catbells into Newlands. At the end of this miners’ path you are entangled in lanes which seem planned to prevent direct approach to the church of the vale. Newlands is littered with ancient mining débris ; in every watercourse there ‘s excavated rubbish or a flat where ore was washed, crushed, and sorted. Goldscope must be a perfect labyrinth of passages and chambers, but every hillside has been bored for minerals. ‘To-day the tunnels are used by foxes and bats as places of refuge. Yet the beauty of the vale survives. Nature has done little more than wash out the stains and throw a mantle of thin grass over the tips. The rambler turns face away from the de- vastation, and ranges the hill-tops with their magnificent views of mountain and lake and river, of glistening Solway, and north-east over Skiddaw to the famed Border where England meets Scotland. Derwentwater’s three miles are badly placed to aid further explorations. It 1s better to travel by road, For Watendlath‘one traces the east shore, 45 eee tt od ed ll ae —— SS me, esis am Ji # : 4 Ls a “+ -*-# 4 4 _ ,' + fe + ean yy eo 6 4) a A ry " P Pa bs 7 + +e a. Ff . Tobeinigbesed pandggeo eg atnig taal! ee ~. = es ipa BE ag a di ieee tee on : al — be = ee ee : + + Peer CFU It hy 4 S ao ar 5 a _ nor » « " ra + ia «* bt to arse a 2 Servi et Vii tie at Se oe oe te ae or Phe + + HY : + Tr 4< iad : P , **¢ SOAS eos bee tt bt oe aU id od ta , Pad od GP ts Ot oe ito bt uP kee eae Me OF he stbineesg baba hatieie taped A ERE tere rettinidbebems ptt el cali edebis ‘ : aa ye « si “+. ,* oe et bi iC ate Pet Ti+ Bate ean ip -_ ———— Pa mt os ry Pee ae Ne Be oie tle in ‘ r 7m set : LANG, MU Ot eOon Oe 7) Grey WI Arle OO eeest re ee hd beh Ph ELK, oy fi Pe : rar errs par were tH Tr tes, art “itp O beled btbate's d atelble Pree Aree iil i Fae be ae weakpeelbitialgdets bliin leisbeimisbetelelelecet aha atasictorsielet eye Ste MOTE PETC rarer ee sto ree a 4 t i : 5 re a + * TAD OOOH NIOOO OOOO: strat tt art Peace atte COU 4 ~ aae C3 oe + 4 Rie. « bia yi $i4' 9,6 a ‘ a - es b eee - ’ s*,4 A be id | a , nh i ee ty bd ies ry = k ™. + Cn 4,4 eee Pay he aa Tuk Derwentwater On the a mile on the Borrowdale road until a roughish ha athe “ 4 eo tS ar in ‘ °4° Sb 7. a ot + 4 ‘ road turns steeply to the left. Except in high id Us 4 BR summer (whenit may be crowded with nicnicken); 7 this is a sweet nook reflecting the Cumberland of Wordsworth’s time. One easily recalls hearth- fires here, pan-baked bread, peats, and smoked mutton. Nowhere, possibly, in the Lake Country is the old method of preserving winter's meat now a) carried out. A generation ago there were still a , few houses where a whole carcass of sheep hung in the round chimney to dry and cure in wood anal 7 * —— e ‘ . a a - rt: Bd We aes ATR Is >| her | i eat a 7 + . an - * 7 * Ch | + . +4 4 a) + ** a hee ot tt of be ae PE TT ol Le be bee rhe do oe VA Faded ee Ph Pit Pod Pel? CF be be oa & o*i0,4 4°,* ea * +.6 » 6 iy * 4 «+ b.4 | . oe a CoG Lt aoe Mod Of te Comat Pt br Let? Sear ee ad LAO neh ee bor Sr OO Gat oe oe GG PO Oe ee a ee A 4.*,9,4 6,* b'0'4,*, ee > 4 es aed + + 4) * Ps PPL rt sere PO PLP Coe ar er br | nm @g*,* +*.4 peat smoke. Watendlath has a vem of a tarn, picturesque cottages, a narrow cat-arched bridge ttt 4 well placed for the artist, and a wonderful back- round of moor and mountain. It was never a village of renown, merely a nook of high pasture next the heather, bracken, and bogs “at the end of things.” From Watendlath the paths are wet and in- +4 6 ee CJ Omi : ee eae ie ee *% * ~~ s.00 4 ot St ee be be ee Pid haber ee HS of tall 5 - : e+ fe oe 7 r + iA bl ed Sa ae Tce eee ee Peed | ht ‘oP + Phe | é4*h*,*,%,'s7,4 we oe Pe oe ee | pe Leer hae Be Re oe Py et be be eee 4 rod at ot EC oe AL o eA UT DODO Aa nO ot PT Meter re PL distinct. By following a judicious line towards + Helvellyn it 1s possible to make either Wythburn or the foot of Thirlmere in about an hour. ‘The | eye CP De ded * «4 rbd ast be +, #4 ° latter route is easier to trace, but both have dropped out of use since Manchester depopulated the dale beneath Helvellyn and drove out the + moorland shepherds who trod these tracks. * eet et ot ots Fl Ph coe s%,2e 9,7 Pa BPP of CO vwewtri ST ad | PL bay 7 . Lt. oe een Pe a or) is Land ePety rye b a ree aE Fibe 4 Ot ot of eee rar ** + . hd 7 a 2 r ee pare aR) an oe Bh Peg Ae a or a ee j a oe ee ee ee be es : + t . hey Sn eos “ ar -: . . a : ys | : °. : qriee e + 7 Pha if ae os ® UP i aan t a re ron int 4 a or at .* t _ . - 7 5 a | "+ L - > | * + > a4 Bs >" op rf SOUGUIIOL ses ** a 4 a + 7 ye ee | 4 “ oa 5 J a - é Ls ST be ne ey, | * Lal ra * = *” ‘ ** P a 4 * - Py a 7 a * ‘ ss J a 4 heeded’ ‘4 4 ee ore e+ eee e¢s + oe ‘ . 7 Fhe edi het ba ov * on a oe rf oa i by a J a | 9 ae ‘ft ROOT AAP eo | ror a a he fe hr ‘a - D a 3 o J heen J a | 4+. @ ‘ce . oe) an! "hae et by os “ rn a et 4 Z.. a - ee OI ee a +4 '% * *¢ a ’ OU a > vara F' as *%4 i Z + ee a te yr ee 4 + LZ a~ 5a. © **4 4.26 ee a aie San At Pe ed Pe is P +4ae ie John Peel Country track over Watendlath Bridge goes south along the edge of the moor, and in ashort hour descends to Borrowdale at Rosthwaite. No visitor can afford to miss this tramp if the flesh is willing. It also needs a little power of the spirit to decline an easy descent down the track to Lodore and Keswick. Borrowdale is a “compulsory” trip from Der- wentwater. Down its deep trough comes the principal feeder of the lake, and the scenery is glorious. At the “Jaws” the crags come very close, and make a pocket of the higher community. In the old times Borrowdale was esteemed a back- ward place. Here the folks tried to “ wall in” the cuckoo ; they put more water on lime to quench its smoke; their wise man declared that the first donkey must be a peacock since it answered to no other description within his books. In Borrow- dale they arrested a “ticking ’’ watch—clickum- clackum—for consuming its missing owner; anda yeoman spent the winter astride a new-fangled saddle because he could not withdraw his wooden clogs from the stirrups. In spring a wandering scholar from St. Bees’ College suggested that the worthy farmer should take his feet from the im- prisoned clogs. ‘* Now at last I shall have a com- 47 ~~? ee * * eee a ek oo. ae ed acy . — ae ee , + 4 ‘+ a a ar arate Me * J « | _* + * > a _ +e yy D . . « ae Pe oe J #. * e+ +e? * A ** A Py "hs ot ee ee rd. kl? « ae. a a be a Pa @ +4 ean Lah UR RE Le eR UN 7 ae RAJU ee J m™ a On i baa; 4 Foe LJ a yout eee, 2... | Oe Barbe" +",*,*,+,¢ VA A) +a St Mi Serres din tee q + bd * *,* ** * 4 * A ot tea p hy tememarpe ty! U] eDarereterapeormyt +] ot KM ee * 4 4'6-4 r | et , ee bee er VOT arr SP te as i ae ar a be ao, Dah ape yit re Pe ae Ld r m ee | ye" PLS TOF be be ba bs a, OT Oe ht * - rf > ‘+ + i a ae) oe ee gtuaeyetete th os me “ed 6 B16°6 A cetee io a eo ee ee ee ee ee F eet Q 4 “pete | ‘ e: a) aa? et PP Ud ed od os Ps bs Thteltd AAAs 3 UU UCU Oi! LCR he Pe OOo deed bees LPL bee coe Ge Ot be tee MM dt he ‘ ee oe ee ae oe | A) Ore le LEN . b ++ ed es bed * $@%si* os oe SUDO OD DANA eter ee Lae et —* a @ a *.7 * && ee a Of ng a Ae +* a #14 *( 44 4 Se 2 ee. rs Pet ve +? et Ee iat eae e * 4 ; * «.% @ *. 4 eer be n - weer et eke bt bd be OUTS UIC OUTER CORIO NOS, e 4,4 4,+,4%,* * a - i * tion ny A ri : ++ ut ier by br Si Sr bc + ee tetee @ & a +. a nm Derwentwater & the fortable night's rest ; what a fine thing it is to be a scholar.” I wish Cumberland were as generous ‘n its outlook on scholarship to-day. The Borrowdale road is badly over-run with motor traffic. In twenty years practically every mile has been widened, filled in, scraped down, every corer tinkered, yet the man on foot or push-cycle goes In terror of life and limb. It is possible to be swept off the road as the end-bulge of an un- wieldy transport takes a wide curve. ‘The motor- driver, professional and otherwise, has no great joy on the narrow and twisty Borrowdale road. Some party is sure to halt for view or picnic on the worst curve in the “Jaws,” or to stand near some awkward bridge. There are many quiet rambles in the dales off RBorrowdale. Outside the enclosed lands the wan- derer can travel pretty much as he wishes, provided that fences are not broken or gates left open. A good Ordnance Survey map will give information of lanes and tracks into the hidden world of Cum- bria. One may scramble to the top of Castle Crag for its vertical olimpse ‘nto the “‘ Jaws ’—beech , and woods, clear green water, and a silver strand = ° p : > enn, se to the top of any ridge and rock. I erchance * dislikes quarries, idle or working, but their paths 48ay -_ ll a — —, ec ci “4! art 08 e BG rire xy yr 4) toa terrae ** * 4 # ‘ ez og *¢ oY ry! ‘- Par! Tas at ores ron eh440) “ Sh tere +"y7 FS ay “4 FQOCYONG Oe + - 7 rom Pere reste a) ee | a ees 4-4" i* Wart nene x 14 | ty td + 2 + Wath + Lh * +t eat ets nth HT cero r Rear rs ‘ a * ae or OF, rd AE i Tr Ce hd 4 en BL ; : Leis i-balieieiegetseandf-t-t- a aT + a? $ 0 * * i * 7 aa ne *,* * Tilted J rhe i 7 a a . eae bbe te Ag hg ryt Sty: Pytae fer . 10.0, 81010) 6,0.6) 4)", 0) 6 ret Ld carat’ H ny Bite ait ari Hit Leone | ate*t ~+4 * * & ¢ 6/4 of oe" ee ee ye Fy. i! Tr TT mrt Apes tet hei ee | _ rs o as | * i a [Baa St toot fe an os r Poh <7? a; © ar neato ee Cand ve i 4peae.® 4' +4 * al als my - errr atemetatate a * + 2k a Pe Ser ’ P cs 7 ie Way ed es : Te ala apenas uote CF I *s } ai Fe ries | + Laosa)t rs P Heute M4 . +? a*. vat a id LDL A Whe RR a at oe wea yea: ot wet ee be Aa eet hae art he AA AAO y ed be hee 40 4 *+* -—* +. he 4, i Ready a he =) a * - 6 S eri, Pg a ' FP al he J) Post ee oe" a rbd | 2 as a iol a F ra ers Pi ety - ores be ba a I be be a ae | ie te v7 fs ot a*s a hohe Pid td co * ¢.¢ ie ‘yea k OM by we wad ae nd here teTuessEpererens a a a 7 Yi. MIO eat a ae ae eee Poe ot Ww aa ee] Pt at ar a a a OI ‘ a Ps a oa a. a me IIE | ++ 7 8 rt a at ae te *% hh ee Pf was a. ULL ULSAN orelt RPO ’ ose 4? ns * RUG uM) 4 st +e 8 6 * *% 4 . *ry\ told ‘ ‘ POLL V AALN ob AA ‘ f | —. Par tors a a reurtet we Ps aestat Mie yee S116) DE io aap a a Nyon ie er y Pe tetitheiel ROT ST ry a[etetiet tt Sf rts t bs - . Py at me hi : re DOr whetisalpielelirindet ik J @e:h7s° ‘ NARIUG ere wero ATT wa. a 4 PPO RT or bret bt Shee ess porerbebebt-g-f-b-bLotlelpselabinidfobelscoy beh a aha ee: s+hebatinie ry . yotares OIC . : TTF e+e og Sa bet Sct ot Wh * setdaués iteletets ; shieihiee lei *+ rb eh he bend Whe ++ FEMI soeyeere see et) on “i i "ss 6 + te ++ ai ea SOT VOW Sara RETR eee eee eee boe eee, r i Rg rete 6 Te BPRS IS SF or be See ah PGC ok oe er be Se eet red Ba ThE Pete te age Bt ar oe PP DOM TCT wh artes Pare oe Fett e ae UCM ICICI De ete cemect es rcrie een Cte Sette Ps ra ; 4 _ ' si Par vt yo oe a rt Tit 7.7)". bie &*** * eave a | : Mee poy ot Ot uf . ae va Ate) F r din LSU PUL 2 ean. et Oh eloent: ary Oty A i ot oF Ed et We 42" 0S SP eStore ie OCT be PRC © FU 6 6 4*i* +4 ny aaa Ing a ei * he +16 Or ++ rg o*,*4*,*.0,* 8% a POOL se Ri | ' TT me 1d RS mor Ce) * A aCe * oe - ety atta nat ++ - OU od o;* * A * t bs ao asa ria , ey iia . vis . th. rot ef bat Pe PT POE Pe * Pe el be oe be Ot be eT © te ee fi “2 _ Pf ee re a s* id - Pot af bot oe | Ae A a a) th bt od ee 6.76 ae | Peto ee as. oe oe ee 9 8 ob + bie Bian +l tye 4 i * , ww ee FP od to eh ef af ea a eek he ee $C hace OT ea eC ASW SP tern) PCat ie 4 : ‘ Pe | /, Pd *+,.*+ « 3 , aoe Se ; i } ree ‘ i ee me wad Ts ie & et Sthta, & 6 + * Ye i be oe te Ps Py rq ae ot a) ek A re a ee be hk a i ai be be be Ob HOOT ee ee Pat hI Le eet te | Ca. o,e,¢,°.% @ 6 §°4 4° i* at os oe ot he eee ee ete OOO UG ee ee a aon ts 7 ee oe * * at be bf ot bf be bt + 7. on rs LO ts ~*s * + o,0:6,4,4,¢ + * e* iA ait * CS R s+ oe . KR * user eras! ~ + bia a, i shamans bs On bd bine Bt bn ba bi by UY bbe adindine oe coed ee ROL SUR ad agenesis oT + $4) * o)4/4-4 t, bs a ae Le Serr Ht. tn as My , *4 A * | Sor A Or ee eee be PE ee nd AT Derwentwater & the hill. At the top, to the right, is the famous Druid’s Circle, a ring of grey boulders in a wonder- ful setting. ‘The eye is enravished by wild ridges and coves of Blencathra or Saddleback, with Helvellyn glancing over minor hills on the right front. ‘The road is mainly downhill to Threlkeld, a twisty sort of village with fox-hunting in its blood. ‘To the left there is a little-used road toward Mungrisdale from Scales, but a_ better access is found a mile or so further on. The Scales route involves the opening and closing of several gates and dodging some watersplashes. It is also too near Blencathra to see anything of the sharp edges and deep coves. As the Penrith road rises towards Troutbeck, there is a really fine view of mountains, practically every peak from Hel- vellyn, by Bowfell, the Scafell group, the Gables, the Buttermere and Newlands heights being visible. And the great shoulder of Skiddaw cuts sharp against the sky above Bassenthwaite. The road by Mungrisdale to Caldbeck takes one through Hesket Newmarket, a curious little townlet, and across much open moor with distant views of the hills, and finally a peep over the Eden towards the Border. If the journey from Keswick is to discover the 50rea. Fie ee Le er 9 a glia Se in| ae a J egies bs ea + * tT 3 spot ey i a * i* +i4 # vf e;* +. 7. hee i shatter ate cs a oy 4a ee) t+ Crass: eter hee FY Wet ATs Ste Sta tur ii * tl seen ee o es aa a re td i + . oa] eI rk) ey oy art) ad A] ~ ‘ seats oe .* MPC Moc arure: ee ee Pa . ry . ae ay ae e803 se bh ie a a Phas eee 4 a J 7 at Lelst-ta! x - Pee Por Peas iA 7 J — os res ae *,* PP A s - + ooo Pt Vohra a. he Fat bg § e J , vitiebels Mi cm eet eraee he * * + 4,¢ E *\* «* er" rs et ers ae im et ; Re ee ed a 2 2 ~ 4) Plt ~*-* + a i > v) ea “193 a an ee | irire r 7 *\¢ T4°s ae! ee *,* bd veveeee cs ** * ** ve r ) r, lak | ad rere) * ad ba - es Pett, ae ah mi Py De aé sabe} * 4 A 7. co atte i coer tre Laan ‘Petree ae * + a. ilvse ‘ hire oy |. iw a 53 ‘ ‘ i res a} he he ad y' Setaaec - ORS * *« . a m4 oe i*4* *e.+s ~ Oy Ps t-tet A hiaa oT + Va et he id ¢ a ri s+ a 7 a he oe 8 pee . ash es * ir , a Beer: > - + a . - - | S a " wu 7 | “> tos Ss ate ae 4+ 6 *,*+ + +,% aoe Sol be oe ek ed to i **#% art a | 4+ ft n pl i.e ee erenerererirerystny rt se We be te im bs ae Pe er ee ae OM Me Be bs ea COOrey, - a | a. a) + 7 Pr a*6” U jabe'a*r te ety , a ae 2. — e es * 7 Soiated bt tell et a a bo’ Ue 7 aa ee wore we A ys tet +a, bes 4 rotary erte whe hh > a oe sae’ Cou Pe a he i eee A + 7 a ae a he " aa a te «)* i % Ls 3 a * LIA TUTE 1 dL +John Peel Country vale of St. John and Thirlmere, there is no need to enter Threlkeld at all. It is easy to curve to the right, by a fair road, into the valley. Old world once was St. John’s in the vale, but not so to-day. Its roads are planed out of recognition ; there are rents in the rocks, but the quarryman has not yet gripped the tangle of buttress and cliff which made the magic fortress of Sir Walter Scott’s “* Bridal of Triermain.” We call it Castle Rock to-day, and there is an impression of vastness and majesty from the road. ‘The fox-hunter who works among its loose boulders. finds nothing but confusion. The road continues up Legberthwaite, and enters the ** Grand Trunk Road ” of the Lakes (from Keswick to Windermere). Along this, at Thirlspot, there is an excellent little hotel (there are no inns on our main routes to-day), from which an ascent can be made up the ehyll fairly direct to Helvellyn top. Another track, out to the left, arrives by a wider circuit. On Helvellyn side there is pointed out a cavern where a suspected murderer lived for a year or two before making departure overseas. Father and son were accused of killing a pedlar, whose body was found, without a copper or trace of his pack, in Thirlmere, after a merry-night at Wythburn. SI Pt Tt OS oe ol ee ee oe ee eee - + a i = a) mt fee i ere OOO M4 es + : + , Bese ee se IR CII OEE OO OT rier Oo Teich +b at 4 att BAA Tepes e 1+ bia? POC MET FOIC RIT MTC Tae etree cet at ties PPIOUGUUDO CHS OH Sheet et eae rm ee Me MOS Oren rae Ta oy yr oO e elas oe CT eet Mptreee Pepe ti meester a rer | _ alt ie aii ln ea li lel tice oe 4*.Pie , Sti Wwtin ss ace / PRU ar aes 7 7 ** #4 oe ‘ Sere ri tt a P eset treo Pane 4 7 ot + 4 ‘eee nl ps Porte o) + * ¢ * neh hehe wf 4 9 B - iot O 8 a 610 61818 © Fie iis brat ibrelbeathtath Brtgeeteretasibatgsrecd aed gtatetatstaraserb sisi erarect : ot ree a he ref | pe ted br hor PRT Te ser + 4 eo 4 Fa @ ¢ 4 giant lt Py ty A Tre f 4 ‘ ae ' : ‘ : , ' « Tied FeO ite ene aes MMU ver persons vey tmnt uo) ROS OT err sTeiej-‘ Phiche pS aererery rn. ad Gd toe bet 7 t vee 1 eh Pe ae Ae o a ‘ tM hg Le 40748 Pyryere 4 a) + Meerze T uk * or rf Lae bd Lae es ors er, a) _ # Pe me Pe we Me ot td te eS A rir) LAN 5 a ot ah ir tw DE St ae - rare rat) Cit | rv ae + sabes 4 . Pe oe P 4*,*5°,4 J 7a bd whe x it ; ro La a *) bg | wa * | “yh ies Z és oe hs rt oe em PT ty a a oe ae be ks Fg oe ra * eb eers POPC eC So a ee ee ee hy SETeerrerreTre 4 LOLs Mo : * * * Oo + Fi pe mee i **2£¢ & b* 4 @ Pa Pe ee .s hat # aid r * i rs a 4 thr AM ath a a Tt. hey te ee ee ee ef Be ere b baw oe a | a | ete a*,* et eV Port a a *.d 4:6 #4 640 4 + * a REC ce a (Yo) oc pcb treren Or alk Lark Da ba bebe ba trae el bas bo proces boomed BOLD) hak ot la oe a be On bet he bk a | ate he he ES )¢ 4, he Beh, 9 Pr . nar Lave re eer Hee bo cite ry r - ‘ . - ona Fh *.4; + ai 6.4 PT — *e}) Pa a 474, | , ] fi a f i : ee | | es. « % r + el a ‘ vy ew As 4 “d , oe] * 4 #74 a), *i, + . a a a) Cy tS he Oe “TES eg eA wit ere * a6 * * 4 ‘ a?’ *,* A ot PI a + abiyta* SS: . * ee * ee 7 “ mou ‘ a eee yO a ei > oe ee | he a be a SU OD Oa Behe ey ete SOS OU . i. a) oo. ert Vee ee eb bie bee e * a * @ 2 @& > i & oe ee rs bi A *atza .8 6 § Ae ties ual of ed ofu ~ Derwentwater &° the In those days there was no general hue and cry. But the young murderer could not rest under a roof for fear of vengeance ; he slept in this cavern of the rocks. Of old Wythburn, Manchester’s mighty dam has left nothing but the church. The Cherry Tree inn has been washed out, with farms and a lower road. The Nag’s Head is so modernised that it is difficult to note anything Cumbrian, except its breakfast in winter if you are hardy enough to walk so far fora meal. There is rarely any sleeping accommodation available at the Nag’s Head. ‘The path to Helvellyn starts opposite the inn; 1t 1s so well marked and used that one needs no instructions. One route goes straight up the tongue between two rills and crosses the fence; the ‘pony track” wanders about to the right before taking a swing towards the mountain-top. Manchester is gradually planting millions of conifers on the slopes and moors round its great lake. In a few years there will be more than a shade of green on the heights. The old times will return in one particular. There is little to write about Wythburn. The church has few old dales characteristics, but is much visited. It is merely a show place, with a 52John Peel Country trifle of congregation from the reservoir workers and two farms which share the open land. ‘The road from Wythburn is a motor run back to Keswick, passing along the western shore to Thirl- mere, opposite to Helvellyn. The way does not lack beauty ; it is to be compared with the best two miles of lakeside road in the country, provided you do not look at the reservoir. Modern Thirl- mere suffers from the dreadful bath-like solemnity of pent-up waters. It has not the glory and vigour, the poetry and music of a real lake. The road returns to Keswick over Castlerigg, and gives, perhaps, the finest road view to the Lake Country. In front is Bassenthwaite with a mighty sweep of purple hill up to Skiddaw ; to the right is Derwentwater and the trough of Borrowdale, and a magnificent array of fells beyond and around, ‘There is rich colour in this view, come when you will. ‘The Bassenthwaite region is comparatively little traversed. Motor chars-a-bane run daily round the lake from Keswick, but the fleeting glimpses from the railway to Cockermouth will serve hurried folks just as well. The road to Bassen- thwaite passes Southey’s Greta Hall, now aschool, and various pencil works. The last burden of 53 7 Mi —s ¥ Pe * — = e - 4 " a 7 ti iS iinaemiallpeo ea i ‘ * ~ 5 odes : Te Wa +r Pie A SS 4 - ag A eg a i aon ty es Cees san a rs i > * Teeetb reel tie pel shite te etae, * *ie.¢ * ‘ er ceed er Cer ors rortee Moe Dea a re s RSBRR reer 4 4 i re ioe +4 «4 Py PA ~ ~ an « : : a e+ * r APs Pat brat +: Hedehisiedsr es 0 wit: re | Pose eer “att * + # © 4 & 010%," .* AT bd ft feet A ated eh at SCOT er area TE eM PLL DT be be CC}? 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Ld ef had * 4 + e144 4.4.4 nt ba og ae ae Phi teh aA a UIE ISSAROATE At Oe ee oe Ot rc Prk 3 Tr + erect ae Spe A iit ee Aes. . vf i a ie bea oe * pd : Pd 7 ‘ - ' ae : * SENSEI SEIDEN IO ESRI EOR EN OCT REESE ete et ae oes IS Ta Ot ed $090 ».% : " ‘ee aa a * Pty ; n + Se Se 4 aly york ee + 4,4 4 ee Leesa O60 6) 4 414: 6, 454/46, 4 *,% s ee be te ee 7. ew of vs a ‘ a) i * rr - : mA dar “ ORL Thisejey m — a*. 5 seta LA i rh | + rh 4 a ey bg! |. ae ’ a be bt OF pd) i oe aos. ‘ a = - .? 7 i i oe dee ae ae a ot Derwentwater & the Borrowdale plumbago must have been used by our great-grandfathers, but the industry “ carries on ” with lead from British Columbia, Austria, and Ceylon. ‘The work in sweet-smelling cedar means some steady employment for the winter months. Crosthwaite Church, a mile down the Bassen- thwaite route, is one of the district’s show places. The late Canon Rawnsley laboured well for its fame, and elevated it above most Lake-country churches. Certainly Crosthwaite has a olorious background—Skiddaw ; in its meadows Kentigern (St. Mungo of Glasgow) may have raised his preaching cross. ‘lhe interior is distinctive, but scarcely impressive as Grasmere. Robert Southey’s monument has an inscription which was re-cut on the marble because its author, William Words- worth, did not think the words vivid enough for his friend’s noble character. Crosthwaite is the mother-church of Keswick ; therefore in old days and to-day every visitor of importance has wor- shipped or visited there. ‘lennyson, Ruskin, Wordsworth are names which occur to the mind. Into Bassenthwaite runs the stream from New- lands and that from Force Crag, another ancient mining district which centred on Braithwaite. ‘Bass Lake,” as the Derwentside folk call it, has 54ee tans ee — ee ae Soi + +i nt hel b atel ae | ee i a aa eh t4 a ss + ak ea a. oe | a ‘ me om ae! ad * oc Pe ee * tie he ‘ “oh, it ot ene Ot i ae Satie +) Pa re a re | eet, 4° ) bet ereea rey an) oto ++ a. | . OT ees Fs 4 tainpsadrirt .- over HS ae | * S * + on + PRO to, in @ +i4 Aietes rare + A thnks | ti Chak i. A +4 ed | he eee | - ‘ REST RE @ 414,46. 6-% aba LS 4 +++ es ++ te aa roe oe ee Peete imn% is ht i Po ed iy 7 + * + ie @,4'* +e 44 tig + * *.4\#@ lela Parte eer Sey [ea ea! i os te 90 aed eS sy tihe ae Pas he} eh i a eb fe a ‘ omsy Sew ii A OL * ae ats ar cre! wrt aad co a + 7. eA Ld oi - * ‘ a * oJ POT, OC \ s, 1 i ) Lad Y ' bel rors ie rs br er rte PU: * : Paper a e's tie s OSes A WOU Ae ic pis dlegtiilditecbent ttle tht roll Cao ** @ be Sie 4% teal yg tb ete a irra in rm ao ee A nice ti LAO etorere stra tr) Ler ors Pa att F : se tasetitet thsi scott erates ooe) ere peteded tb bree tet ates wy P 7 ARNO IRAE erertrereroits i Crto ros Las a ae ror toss MOT | e,#:* 7." 7 reeseeeert Arar hck ites heel sear seete rey e*-¢ rT i at is ale Lepebetsiotedttvistetettin.ti a inieieit dit mh ’ Bee OCH UY cS nul se iit ne it = +,*.4 a ey se eet te | ‘ at 7 . = rr wrayer be Wat VOCE OT SISO DOR IG ea ae rr | ae ‘ Pre | cw ast ee (hceltAcAcarnee ose a ‘ + ‘ ea aes aa > ME ae TeNe He DEO ote rere Fete Sa eT ween pees actors it 5 Leee®onl - Labytameterpetel ale ehddt ecw y ULC. my Debeirtae hn aK SAIC og ei ihe a. id + , PL ui ’ ? " 7 Mw — tinge ‘+: i r o pire ri he LA te a + | ae et re ot ht bs aa “eden: ig tn be r et eae to! hd wot i hand bs J ert PEP T io iw ecietebeterteresey : ee ee a to he x + ett ed oe ‘ ay MARAT re a 8 | ages Mase ert * . Sd a * * eT * a * + a sd ad a a al a os a a - - Se * * * 7 a * a a 7 * os ++ ‘4 4 Cor oe! a) * ee > et ‘ie POG “wt + tae ae CW We oe eia*l* 6*,*1*.* 4 m ht AU OOO m/w lOO rear os fe et pe a sd * of “a Oe bf ie 4 ed CL *.E,*,e8 ‘ a+ @ # 4"4"," *41* 4 a4 AAR ARR RAM AA POC tet re MS fs LA oe . a Peddie FPLC obi bt bd Sir AL ‘es * 66 a hee tee a a oe oe oe | * * ee er ee =e 5 rn | Sindh bet tat tee ere Ba Sie 4 6 6 6 6 LASECUx, ce et bf te hd ot Se ot - iat <7 Cr hes et ae rs 7 5 ; 2 * Bd i a . * a - + iad a - fot « . 5.* - ; + _—? +4 - ” : Y: * ‘= ro ‘= 3 * od ed as * af,*he+ Aree * A a 407. 9,*, 944.9 « Poe | . rae 4 Ai rs nd * oe *-* A eth. ba a + + * ca * yes ot re ka ber te ee ete oe a « é “gt.e.e tbe ote ee ee Se ae * bias ae + eos ‘ Ss a + +h * bin & & mae eee Wt o 1+ + @ a 4 ‘TOO OOOAAARAAL a) a ee ** a ‘ . a Derwentwater go on to Dash, where there is a good waterfall, and to Overwater, looking across the fine-looking Dead Crags on the way. The place to strike for, however, is John Peel’s Caldbeck. Every yard from Bassenthwaite is through country he loved and hunted for half acentury. John is no myth; his grave is in Caldbeck Churchyard next the little roaring river; and in that village you can sit in the inn at which he took his ease and planned ereat hunts on either lowlands or heights. My preference is to reach Caldbeck after a walk over Saddleback (or Blencathra), a finer mountain than Skiddaw, with a sharp edge which is worth scrambling. Beyond it there are grassy sheep- walks. It is well to take care in the first mile lest you reach Mungrisdale rather than the Cald- beck country further north. And for hunting this is the country to see sport, even to-day when leaders of packs are by no means so famous but quite as skilled as Squire John of old.CHAPTER III ULLSWATER, HAWESWATER, © THE EAST FELLS PENRITH ; THE ROAD OVER SHAP FELL ROM Derwentwater there is only one motor road to Ullswater. This passes through Threlkeld, and climbs to Troutbeck. Here a branch to the right sends one by Matterdale to Gowbarrow Park, about midway up the lake. To the right is the way to Patterdale. The opposite direction goes to Pooley Bridge, the foot of the lake, and Penrith. It is, however, better to travel further, by Greystoke, a pretty village, and Dacre (with its quaint church just off the main route, and the ancient peal tower, now a farmhouse), to Penrith. From this town there are two good routes to Pooley Bridge, either by King Arthur's Round Table and Yanwath, or through Dalemain Park. 'The former is the most used. ‘The latter passes a road through enclosed park, and is not easy to compass at night. Second longest of our lakes is Ullswater, and many declare it the most beautiful. Derwent- water makes one glorious picture; Windermere is 57 Oe oe ok od ok Lk bl a ee ee ee eee ee eee Oe ee ae ee ee tl aoe L ok rath TR arate : jsfetaghpis REGislyints! Mey ara rh | o ¢,*.* @4 * 4,4 #:4*,? 1m ; rina ’ = s 1S ae — ? J bie tage be ee a : + . Pht eng ‘ ttt bat ecatereretatat, i Oey me ithe Wee tse Se HLICIT Gast od sak eh eS tort oar haa oh at Ot. sate? 7 a rs + 2 / bd Gana Leblhiebgagarsebedebieg-tld-t-toalelesebinnendbetetesspeurdeticalgiedebiiobetbteretatinkebehapanad leit im + . a. oe ia. NaH MIC or be Gor aa bd ei * Tir ttets PaPaPaT Shob ac eae oad ‘ | erst a Pot + aL AD bie" 7 aye sation ines er ort oe * * Part: red he re ti he ad “4 Por * He Mo ra ee 7 ; 7 i ‘ y f rs os 3yLT -T. y + 2) * 9,°) ierOOto ae . OF o mote ot Ff : oie cr i ; ; eb eevee ey ree MNT TSS eh eo NST tot Ie eater taticads tetera Ay Te PT Pet MPS. +. - A fy i 4 L | P ty FTN SMR Tere ee CR ICT Oto ate i SL al eeageyegey collie ;Orbit 7) Oe ’ t re ne Pat 7. a4 a te r bf th CO bees *s.6 5 - a . we we Pre eee A eh F ot A n a “i Welfotn wow a ent ee | 7" a bt reperreste, 4 —- i ee + a *,*,e * om Ms a a Am ‘ #,°4° ad ee a Ph 7 or aie oot . ‘ iain #4 aot 7.4 ae ee ia a hae a here o Lae Pes) ee rhe +e 4 bp * bg" g* te A I] a *« aa _ a a eats Pte or art ‘4 ee 6 Pr ee APs ae * 4 2. ee 7 ge * 7 Pd ud a a a er ae | erties eNter ny > CC oe oe br * oe mt ee SOT Le wed | i. s* 4 4 or a a ee ee td ee eet ae PRUNE _ a Pog et “ " in Ld eM, 4, * ee eee 2 CJ * be or ee? ee ae eee te at vt bod oe PEt oe : * a a] ATEN Pe pet or Paha Ay dnd wi tr tA ee oe eee | e* De re ‘hat +,4 5 oe rer a. ee a oe ee | io Yel * + & & & eat ae be ‘ i yw A Pat edd to as Sai0 41:6 ae be De rte | J oe hd ud bE OCS ] ore °° tetedejaieinj-eraTi retire peter et St er es Be ‘+ a aa one? 2471 9.+,8 * hk: oi, i ns 4”, *,4,.§ 6 ear ae ee oe oe ae ROT ee ee et * a“ he ae | Pw ee Perea et" Pew vee | *#e é * "ed a bt BL Wy fe OF or Oe OE BE OL 3 be 6 Poe) is*«2ea @ + P Wee be D —— ihe 4 P a! ats : a | i iT " rt i +, Re LP im ‘*.* . tse _ a a | i ae + — . _ 2 A, ‘ ¥ + on *¢ * i sd a) iw uth Lee ‘ NA POO rts eeu A PST) hae Lhe rghy ty my Ot ae r it trite Ullswater & the East Fells a pageant of mingling magnificence ; Ullswater has surroundings which change sharply and add contrasts to each other. Its three reaches are scenically distinct ; those of Windermere are not. The lower reach, from Pooley Bridge up to Howtown, is quiet. ‘here are pretty bays and wooded hills and slopes which are never too prominent. Dunmallet has been stripped of its trees, and is rather a scar. Sharrow Bay is splen- did, but the others are not equal to the lower portions of Windermere. At Howtown Bay one comes nearer the high fells; there are visions of rock faces frowning over steep gullies, especially on a day when mist is boiling along the grass and scree and picking out the ridges. The second reach of Ullswater has the rocks of Geordie Crag (where, at Kelpie’s Pot, you can consult the fairies and leave a bit of silver if you please). It has the bold shore of Gowbarrow with the park rising steep and shaggy above; it has also the sweet flat of Sandwick, where the stream from quaint old Martindale comes down. The third section of the lake is surprising in its majesty. Two or three rocks rise from the silver plain, but they scarcely count as islets. Here a glorious sheet of water 5‘+4 a efeteeteTetetbe titel tatat ss i oe ++ Potala suede ie er +' pear PO 3 > baths 4h t Port et rest the lake. xr e} ne wrote ee a tes 2 ry rs . Ot Ur} Deere r orale eee arse ] oo. a et =e INRIDDIN\‘ ae ONY Hu o ginlel bb itinsblager’s i ad Tf ** re LT ‘rround, and Householm islet ‘+ ¢ ae » " + * od ( To | * errr tbielg bre cd AND back aa iD ay a oe ees PT *\¢ a rerun a ao ie elepene rs 4 * ny ULLSWATE art of Helvellyn ridge 4 +\+.7 igieis +> + & ¢ @ 4 * ae eo ee See Py ara a 7.2 + @ele i* * * ¢ * a rhs aot aan bh aes 9 °-¢ ‘ * * nd hd bd ba oF 2 ad a7 * he erates Pe ees ile}et 0 With the p Wy Sete, oo *,°h 5+. ae tabeia atyiy Ret * a) + a + a : * . ee 4 a ee i" si @ibliecat ar Mat) ef oP Po or btabid e Pe eo as . Fs rere ce eae * * er A7 rl i Fad adhe Wy Lik be ote iy ee RRR sd ee he A keg Tala? | ys oar con a é a a Tr Ped ng e.6 5" .* or ie a 7 adel $e oO on ‘tom *.* » + ae | PS . . ee oe] ahyeie?.* . * « * + Pog MM te by - - she bd + | s+ 4 at +7 = + * + ee ae ee Bel me tet ; : a a _ » oJ ‘eae a: 4 4 as “ee = 2 “hi fo Wi J 7 ** =! . + * + 7 o a trapale! * a*\? ee te he | A, - hs | 4 : y Be » My, AUR i oy ee hg Rhy * 4+.¢6@ & +, 4+ 4+. + 4%, 4 er ar ee ‘+. * @ * Pee et! iT 4 tet: ed a ith PH 4a Lah 1 *.s ‘a ret on | arate . se e+ ee & 2 * 4 Oe ed baUllswater & the East Fells mirrors sweeping fells—Place, St. Sunday’s Crag, and Helvellyn, with woodlands hanging shaggy from the rocks, with bracken holding up banners of green or red or brown. What verdict can be given on this scene? And then Silver Bay, which is opposite Glenridding Beck, is wonderful indeed. Though so near the great trading and military roads north, Ullswater has few relics of old time. It is said that St. Patrick travelled from Holy Island to Ireland by way of Patterdale, but the name bears other derivations. 'The great Roman road from the camp at Windermere head slides over the ridges eastward of the lake, commanding splendid views, but never descending to companion- ship. There is neither ancient castle nor tower by Ullswater; every settlement is modern compared with those in the Eden Valley, a dozen miles only to the east. Penrith, the Eden Valley, Inglewood have been occupied by invading hosts again and again ; they were in debatable and open country. Ullswater was a hidden nook. There is a legend that Scots came down in force, raided Greystoke, and found a path across the hills to the river-lake. They knew that there was a nick in the hills to Windermere, but they did not march so far. At Stybarrow, 59 af - eee ee ee oe ee oe ae an te r / - - ‘ ib io€t ia + ‘ Oe le — 4 = oe 4 « * << ‘i erg seen an a ao +, or, F ef ne J ' 7 . 7 rs -« #4 tle be 4‘) RO Soe SOSA TESTS Sra 4 w beinidinisdepcedglyie ggg ley — i Fart wd jtallianil rr iD ett, oT SSNER eo eo 7 7 “ . . POS POOER TE PET TC Fe pappeeet st vey ret 2 7 AFOOT root ote d beh at Prot ar er keke kee PUPAE De by bre Mt be ae ae DERE + ME DPCP PE RET a PFE ECM Be Pe 2 3 tipetatiend feleleis note , PT ie i Sra -?3° vd ot Sods ey bd 2 ee ee 4 SOS ot ear or: +4 ; i F / te 7 ers Fare cee fe t}ey Pore red oe +14,7% 60), Poe oe eee oe me ee ee veratertt eeree torts, oro bre Sie 4 ere OF tie 4 ‘-* ~— a ~ 4 4.44 ee 7 +4 4.4 & & ree the Lae ek TTtt ra or ore! PRE EST DOH BG ber ig Foti ea Me te | ARN slhetfititiolaiabeiebebelejelelseiel BEE ar RT Ree Min ree et eOt re toe oe ei ht bt one ATAPI lad od bet * Pye yao ++ ri a UT tor te Wt it tr ee red Le ew or orem a SPOUCOOOOCU WEae en - me t _—— - a f 7 \e "y j ye | Rate Led’ , A aw ae oe - ° & A ) Sed LU rs Pk Jee LA. f _ Ullswater & the East Fells where the path creeps between rock and lake, the dalesfolks had assembled under command of Moun- sey, their “king,” and there was a fierce fight. D 4 6*i* & oe 4 + i de whe bs bd ee we tal pee , a oe5 Fe et ee . rt a ‘ a i bd hg * + he , bs | . n I > a tt 4 Pe i cag | aan #2 4 Ld ‘was ame eat | rar i eit JOT o A a) wh 7 The raid was checked, and Mounsey was given lands within the dale so that he might keep up his warriorship. esa Od Berne by bit ens *oth*5*,*, 84° ‘ * You can drive up the north side of Ullswater and part of the south, but from Sandwick to Patter- dale you must walk. Of course, you can walk round x bed Fr ; rn Tris | a A tate bta'a*,* fee a tM bt id tg ‘ +e es x ° 7 * a7 *ae * **e SLM peor hd we ue or tt the whole lake, but there is no ferry across. ‘The steamer can give you a helpso far on the way, but be ow es a ha Ce es La its furthest pier is at Glenridding, a good mile and Pelee Li eee Verran seeks ekg os od td ai a ra et hese to Feet Tote» oe eS a half from the Goldrill. For the walker who of be bear JR OL aed eee | te | - ; t ; rt b | ae) ’ iM | bg * + LMT ot oe bebe ba at ee yr ere: at ng 4 Ft +.* eo. we Pee eS eee ee ow ee 8 Oe eae Pa ad be . as ore Oat. @ bi6 > Pid eat rit ‘s a war it ft wishes to explore the Ullswater country there are two centres with excellent hotels and private quarters. From Pooley Bridge, at the foot of the lake, a gentle ramble passes out to Watermillock, 7 rf tom bn be el 4 ere er ert ea Ae Us io ir i across the woods of Dalemain to Dacre, down the riverside to Yanwath, up sliding green roads to 4 a. * Moor Divock, where one may return by the Roman towards Brovacum (the old Roman camp Setetetrrrtyy eyez 4 bt be bee ad “err or? * 4:4: 6.4 Pi s ie >a a ee " - * se tee + + Ft 4 iz oe Oe ee a | a at Brougham). ‘The steamer gives access to more o> a ro Pe . “te MS ht he oe Wy ee be be he ed Ee Pe we athe - i #4%,° ‘ort ‘iz JDDG Aree we ett distant walks. From Howtown Pier there is Fuse- dale to walk, and there is Sharrow Bay on the return trip. Some boats call at Gowbarrow, which x rt be ope.02476 § [ ’ OCH OO TT thw ee gives easy access to Aira Force. The opportunity 00 piedt ttc styereneeneticinis pepe tetee feiss i-fo ee Tent : ry ed | ey MOL a be bt se ae ee at ae Sot z i 5 , ce tse 6 * * * bg sf ae | * o oa? a) *he aePaeue Ade ret FOC Bes schaothe’ ++ * 4 ad Se ee ee ee a he | * Put a i! PS 3 &) ] -— + ee ee ee eee eeUllswater & the East Fells should be taken to wander over Gowbarrow Fell, where deer or fox may be seen, and away to Matterdale, another of the little dales which the Lake Country has placed on a shelf and forgotten. ‘There is a good inn at Dockray, from which coun- try lanes conduct the patient and non-tiring back to Pooley Bridge. Other folks will basely desert after scrambling Gowbarrow’s long slope, and re- turn to the lakeside road, where plenty of motors pass. It is scarcely my intention to mention How- town as a centre for rambling Ullswater; it is a delectable place, and I am very fond of it myself. It can be overcrowded ! Lhe upper dales around Ullswater must be ex- plored from Patterdale or Glenridding. There is plenty of good accommodation, but the place is about fourteen miles from Penrith Station and market; therefore it cannot be expected to be cheap. Every mile adds to the cost of goods, even of food, to communities among the fells. Patterdale merits the closest attention. It js possible to motor along one road only; the passes other than Kirkstone must be made on foot. Let us count the dales which strike off from the head of Ullswater. First, counting from the north, there is Glencoin, ending in a sweet flat next the OI -~ + le he 9 mt tee ‘ent _ ae : ee oe ee a 4 a id + Li hae ‘ rey O08 a at * .* LP oon | : wiaitiginisbsteasptitots eED reese roa ToL haf voor — > * * x’ SES oe Cre fy ey eneset roe Weert st rt: rr ~ verbetegglgighedivintst *} rs + Speen 7 A be ad ae at as * 414 ea eee TICE Rn te Sartore art oan bk os SRSA thhay,' et 2h} wr tr bd PEM NE STeRe re thes a, ait aa ot = é rt 3 rier 7 tt “450.9% os a a Porro ses Ot rh, ++ Se ere e i rere? fC rt oe +e Poe’ a Speen NaStaea te SESS NP COC ROR SESE Se Seer ST aS ston Me oH I He eo NTEPONEHESrh Tw Neat snevebepe Me PerancetDs etter Munn HSL Seon IS OIE Peer POSTION Pere HCHO POM NCSCIC OTTO ree StS O a , eSot tal obi pied glahemdclettetttabersftnuets , 7 7 an - wat te Pee ote ht eC eee a ores ee oy ory MI % snr cea EP er panama nscale SPAN Fron, PT ee kl * bie ** em arcana se thee “ it — - oeOua.6 6" eh ot ee oe ‘ es" * 6 8 tt od eae HP’ Ags en hak bas 4) OLD Bite on hd a tT ee BON eR Pa ie J. ok ue oe ee ve oe wh a od J tie + tw Lea % + a ee Coo o ae os] | * re | r AMT gts 7c Fil ithe Ses Sirs ba riots be bebe She uk OU Bice by hs | ry Brett pererotstetetety . e 7 ne Py | i y A a | 7] 7 - ‘ A * é m7 5 : tet St thd ta be +. i . a 5 a A + t Wie roc) tie" i rf aoe rot! ey Pt PL AA th er - at a oa" Ts bets Phe Y Sth} for SHG cotton be Wo Mor TUN ICICI hd COCR Roe ROEM PO Nr gO Ste bi as oe te? Pee 2 ore od ae YE ee >" i. Ry AL sd he i ee ad s' tht : a | ‘, Ca ae a & 6,4°s",* Ae 7 > 4s etd dt «thie ey em 5 a i : ’ - ~~ eer Aa OAT i a a F is be | ‘ Pe + - , ;' Ps +." + * +s ae 4 he | ae. or A hy A. “wees be * Tt re ae oe | i. ee ** an ADU DDOGAAS reo 0? © bee Mt AR "aL be 88 Be Sa be Sib wee ea hee ‘ oe 4 65 4 4 * t+ *# @ * as Py ee (ae) te ok’ ad es e+ bd : o.4 044 654.6.6 rs Se Or be Bq ryor wiAZ: + pr ee ee es i - * x igivdeigupiedet sS-toeek proete prey pietcepis tere tolendotate) jolene pepepet a) At MEE HRUCH Tbe by Be ht be Re ett - | +e + * ty *+ 24 64 Ullswater & the East Fells lake, but with its upper end cutting into the great moor north of Helvellyn. An excellent ramble for a long afternoon is out by Glencoin, up to the moor, and back direct to Glenridding foot. ‘The erassy tract north of Helvellyn is breezy rather than picturesque, and somehow fails to impress until either a long hour’s ramble is made without seemingly coming nearer its limit, or one is lost in the mist. Though lower Glenridding is a_ beautiful appurtenance of Ullswater, the upper dale is a place to be avoided. ‘There are great lead mines there, mud and dirt. Sticks Pass as an easy approach to Helvellyn is a delusion. Swirrel Edge is fairly simple, and needs no greater labour. Guide posts are plentiful, and in ordinary weather one cannot go astray. Only be patient —do not expect the top until you have sighted Red Tarn. This is the highest of our rock-set meres, and is situated in a deep cove of the mountain. On the north side rises Catchedecam, an easy green horn joined to the main mass by Swirrel Edge. From the foot of Red Tarn the route is well marked to the right. ‘The last 300 feet make a steep scramble, but ascent or descent cannot be construed into danger. 62ee ee ee en ee oe ee a " ee ee a Se ee et ft it et a ee st ee ne - * oo + ; ow oe re Sf tg ae -o-+ ee © & ee Poe or ag a ee her yee oe ee a eee ee ee ee ee - i ded Me en S * : 7 a - Te a ry . + a - ae 7 - Fi , ae | TL eure J TAR + Lo oJ ++ Lng an Pera 7 Cit or) be bd rt of t¢ . ae setie} a YT aera an _ P| rary = = Date Pot co i core oe oT rs be iti bythe oe reese 7 bes eed ere) TA, a | 9 Le pero ran a" ted ba ba t by et ae Rocreieen) otee) nor ti oI a Nee | ee ee ee Seay a rere rf ots ad bt be . i - ee He Meta 4* rt ROADS mt at Prey be - 7 i a rs * 014) @ 6) Whtiebefinine sims iiimenceiiattt s cia t et LitvoT br ar oe Lan ee ee Sd 2. a it AND ITS e+e @& % sisi or ° 7 TRE A wonderful view, with Helvellyn on the right. #1>.05%) Ad ea ici citi ietheneaciliemaenitnt e+ ee Aye i of oe a eat *+ 4 see - yeaah a vee a Ls nr ee oe es * Lea rt Se ae e+ TO THIRLMI Par ed p *#.* " cms ,* 4 © 6 4 + 44 @ & H isk * * ee | a ee CAI OCA ie . ater at ee * o ee | A “ ae | ae * as Seb oe ts TET | er Gf ei 4 #.* 4,4.4/'4.4@,* * fer {4 t.tits Presa ay te FET tetante a he a .~ . — fe iM, 4 3 od « 4*4° + Ld * 4 a . i p OL, i ee hd ' es i) AP wt ees a ; ‘ Ot ee ba ad ts a ‘ oi + e\* ik ** *4 a * +4 * * 4 J et a he +,4 4 : +e a+ a her A Ue 4 * 7 tg by bee ad i « 4,0 4° f \-¢ 9 4 a,€% deh s se 4 - erat tees 4 “ os M * + = i he — e+e * +s nr oe | Co a. +4 * * ae oe arto. Jo. a 4 ri earn “ 4 fs - ‘ « ¢.4-4 4 - : * * « ie oetetit + Ls e s = or oe & ." + 4 + + a ee ee | = te =}+}*}-] +4 ee bed LIL eat i Oe : ae . Pe ar ee Pf Ore ed * »* 5 ae a 5 pee Pe at bie bea oe ee tie 4i+ 4 s *,4 * *¢ ++ Cf hs 6 eetare a a, +," ae | ,o, 4), + * ee eet ‘es iy wt eeUllswater © the East Fells On the south or left of the tarn is Striding Edge, a serrate of rocks, which are unpleasant and even dangerous when wet and snow-touched. In ordinary weather peril is non-existent. Some weak-headed persons scare at the mere sense of elevation. If any member of a party cannot tackle the problem of the narrow track, do not trouble; he or she can sit in some. safe nook until his or her companions return from the summit, half an hour away, and well visible all the way. A person of weak nerves who crosses the gap between Striding Edge and the main peak is unlikely to break down, the cornice of the mountain gives too much employment, though its path seems easier than of yore. No mountain view excels that from Helvellyn. It is usual to return by the opposite ‘edge,’ no matter which is taken first. The trip makes quite a sporting round for the novice among the hills. Returning to the lake again, the next offshoot is Grisedale, through which a path passes to Gras- mere by the Grisedale Tarn and through the gap between Fairfield and Seat Sandal. This is a glorious walk with one drawback. ‘The return is by the same route unless you go round by Kirk- 63 -—— * He tay Hy — i. i ant - - = Ps PI ee A A — " 4 a | ss rar rw Pee eter RY ‘ = o ha 7 aespcatargtleletotir ley ra. ‘Rr. zy wi eae | nt * t ae iM salathslatatites beet ecetace enacts ea ripre ths eres os aaa “et id iY an oa aes, J er oe a ee fees Vel r r . . + Prem ers es a . eee) +4 EERE Be > ee yaa bs prt Phot Stir peer ertareeart at: : " a bl ee mC ee eT oJ ry ee ote . + ur F ry #101614 4416 8-015616 rhe WG YS et ed SU 4 A a Telepetel 4 4.4. & 4,4. 6.6 + 4 610 416 b aig APOC St oe are hd ae be ae ae eh rin bacdt: feisieisdeiedekete POLEDE SCPE DESEN Wt Miele rorec te sertorer rie Ot soa ee 7 AF Wyte Afra et Oly i F eS i D7 F z.° : > i ae > Fer ia ' ir eye eer ar . att tee } tre yt . o.930 t+ +t a © eb gigitit or et we 1% ant rf Pst eee rs te es RMT METRE MNO o oe Use ORL ba a Sara ae ee ha a oe ee ie; ae Ps in ed eet ae Peg 6 a4 * Oo eet Ping pt ah * 4 +414 tle + *‘*~« ‘i | Ee Ye Be yey | . . * 6.7 ta " 4 ae lea te oe 4. YA ae oe ee ae SE a . J ™_. « e+." ot he vd se attahh phen . eh . a! q F * oc TOT or bf LAC a Ce er eT * Pree io Srey ‘ Wi a ." . ‘ ' Ls . set 4 i | i p Y ‘ oA s rte | a Pets t ae : J ere AAO id ao rn ed BY ee m * sbie ‘Va be 4 ee ew ee ry + teehee ey ‘*. ef 2 Ce] oY ToT ytetyegepe ts? Adee Ur ea dae Ullswater & the East Fells stone Pass or force a rough way over the Fairfield Ridge. I am not fond of the road, but from Grasmere it is worth while visiting Ambleside. After that turn up Scandale and walk over Caistone by a fair path to Hartsop Hall, and return to the hard road less than two miles from Patterdale, at the beck which drains Brothers Water. Grisedale, being a through route, is often scamped. We pass with the briskness of morn, or trail back tired in the eventide. Really it 1s worth while spending a day exploring the coves which may be called the back routes to Helvellyn. I have scrambled from Nethermost Cove to the The so- — J ridge above, but that is rough work. called rock climbs on Dollywaggon should be ionored ; at best the rock is dangerously loose and the ledges frail. ‘There are several paths up St. Sunday’s Crag from Grisedale. ‘That which follows a beck to the gap between the crag and Fairfield is best. Then comes a splendid bit of ridge-walking with face outwards to Ullswater. Fairfield can be scrambled from almost any point next Grisedale Tarn, though the best route strikes up from the top of the pass to Grasmere. Fair- field is an amiable sort of mountain with nothing 64title is * TAA ook ot | oe Ps nGhoe reese OC) a PPT ts PS, . out wed sd 6 4 674 6 5°10. ‘ ke 7 Gs ’ \ * te a vO + ul 7 ; : 4 - % sleet: ‘4 m0 , \ | cy : ¥ ' i a 3 4 i yh es} ; eer a . et. Pees ee rT i ITT 4 det ee eee ns - + > + re} A Ve) +4 pete 2. 2 oe eo Ped be 2G + * ASAE et im Seer of tr : FOUN IIe PUIG, Se St ha earn Bs Od od oan od i ene | *.%) Paen | ' VOC rt +4 4 + + %. rc: ca +e Cte Ss a roe * Py . oo Oo oe ot * ee * ee @ + ¥ ++ et eee Tras ae OL 7+ " Ure ait on) we 7 i sa > tad is qn + +,** Loe re * @14.4,¢14 4 rt co 4 —~_ a eed ed mT) peat Mott i eee. ny +;*)+ 4 & © ad é , es H td ha el ad i yi) et ttt > * + *.* 4 aa TN, + La a eri? rar ey rot hy yy 4 pers Fa PePe ry) _- Coc trTe ey ts et Fed ee Phe eer 1) ve 3a bt at ei er Te ro sh i ret: +) ee 4 aa) | ial Pere Hc FAIRFIELD FROM DEEPDALE A Borrowdale crag seen above the frost haze, Po Tt ye oe + Se oe of 2h. 7 a Tors —_ ld a ore Se ee ee ee ee a may os Bose 19 I a ari ca + ota at ee et . an oat 7 + . : Di a ee | n yl ie What Fil Be a" . > “ + fired oF * a SParuvtgs et be en *- eS ae | m4 ee +i. 4.* Lae a re rt, s* - a be mets | ss] a 2 a ** ae a 7 Lae 4 a . he Ad shy t'bu Boe edad eer dl, nde, Tt. A es St r : . a ne Peer oe or be Or te be be é (et "ete * ets te pore eta, * & J. M ad te be ry a +'* [a , he lef jep~ fie + eee eae oat So ow ot ef ey * raat ey ht ae : * 6 , t : . a a3 lias +4 hiah bie ees 7) ee 44+ + + i aS 6,¢.* is PI yor yt. ae ee iT 5 EI aUllswater & the East Fells more fierce than steep and lumpy screes, and a wide lost sort of top. Continuing up the Goldrill Valley there is a pretty deep trough, Dovedale, about two miles along the Kirkstone road. ‘There is a good deal of rough work on the crags above this dale. Deep- dale is a place not worth entering in stormy weather, unless one is fox-hunting. Next comes Brothers Water, a pretty square of tarn, rather dimmed with grass and weed, yet reflecting the sharp cone of Red Screes and the roughness of Hart Crag. To see a great sheep- farm at its best, walk past Hartsop Hall, on the west side of the little mere (there is a right-of- way), and then spend half a day among the lower coves of Hart Crag. There is no outlet above unless you are prepared for hard and uninteresting scrambling. Caistone has been mentioned above ; through it goes the best footpath from Patterdale direct to Ambleside. The gap in the wall south of Red Screes is the famous Kirkstone Pass, where the main road winds up by the side of a little stream. Far away on the skyline there is a chunk of boulder not unlike the penthouse of a dales church. This gives the pass its name, and also names the little inn opened on the summit! ‘To 65 E ee ea a a A rn ei Se a a amas - te A A *—_ it a " me: etticilhllliapaaitieai a ae as ‘i%\ rae ae aaeD are wu poOUumE / Hiss hb inlgzetanlet OT WOU: mr ers ies Oat at ae *i*,° ie - 3 : riwrtek wéhe POUT eta iies ok ebeteeer teen ter tieet Hy af i stgeletaietets? sisdehapetcaccdpantededecaleigtchiviegrbecest dielegatinitis vey ee Teese oe Sor rare Tr ye Ot a ae bd bP eA het pe tt UT br ae bee ee 7 oe) i roa * © & ? RPiae reper eereietr rer tse te e¢ eh Ps - ) Sialede a ra te elat ear Cytron oat) Lbs ps bee ee leoe hele le. * & +4 EE isieititisbitt : ie ° | , » he reg et 8 they pa PHI OG RAD OOD IE TP at ge oe poe reer ore PC ate OO Oe MIL ae Or ot “— ya ~ ey PSM PT SCTE OT ePaye HLT PPE UL Pe Peon OT teh Toe te eee ee ee ook anc) Pee aL OUR HCI UES ETE ET Ie Pit itt Fri asap altho habeus ekabaielstotejeLelsteittaen att beisisisisiitbirrre tts TT ba * 1. Le ee tb ele * we ‘ a ; i — > * 7 sé+ Dagan pete eat ttre be be | i. i seins ’ 7 i a od Le a Fe oe 2 t t pt kg ba S ite bean 4 ‘ i RPVOOH Med Fee "a * 4 %,4 + “+ he alte ht be te rr Lt be ar | tha bed A Ny ry Aa ye - * a ote Sree ‘ et’ + 4° 4*.* eet tw ba o*i¢ St et wv bot TOL b + meeeTe T mete? 4 4 oe esd bee) . ‘ a ees +4 ee a a ee A ee eee ke ek edd ek A kd LP Ser RP a aN Le Far beet oe PCE bread be | PULL FOL Ge Le i. ri sa! § * «* 6.6 6130 4006. 6 ‘ ss Te te r * Ped td td be b., a oe + 4 O's eS PP AA bo bore teh ee ends Fh, ab egb hate Cae et a 4,44 et Oe te ed ee hee, eo ee oe ee i+ i. Ne — Pe Oto we las + -_* + * bd od ha Bd Bd be bn ris Ger ol TDG vid Ace ; bd a ho elt + bs > * + Ft EH a oe oe be bbe BL * Mt rtes Pa P r rs r Me cert fs +. ua Terk lotefeje je ate eet retire re ae | i bt tad ee Ge | _- — > «@ : - a ae | he i a autre lr a et Co ae : ns ae | c Hebe ’ ty Soret TAG Teeter A Ay a er "i Ped id *@7 + wi o On Ses es Tire + 60,6 oe te ore. ' - t co +.4 4 * . a. | ; OL aperee Ad * PAL a ees are UU ASA + bd hes a Mott) better Or nid 5.5 be on be be bee eI ¢ at | ae eae LaLa ri + tay be OF be hs rf ue ‘ i . 3a * fst. yO yy AOL SY b+ ead a + 4 ee Cree ee eee Oe ee oe Oe be a ee te * Ps - Ps ak et a sir wal he ee OP Ot or ale ek de ee a Se ee ee Pf te ee Ullswater & the East Fells some folks this is the more important fact. Kirk- stone Pass has two inns, one near Brothers Water at its foot, the other on the summit. ‘There is,in quiet times, a room to spare in the little inn at the top; but nowadays it has ceased to be out of the world. Motorists do not like Kirkstone, and no wonder. From the Patterdale side it is a hard test for any ordinary engine, ‘There is quite a respectable length at 1 in 8 and even steeper, and this has to be faced after the engine has roared up two miles of fairly hard going. On the up grade there is merely the awkwardness of engine failure ; coming down there is peril, very serious indeed, of failing brakes. Any car coming to the Lake Country from level or easy running should be tested for engine and brake efficiency by mechanics who understand the requirements of a steep hill. Now let us return to Ullswater and Patterdale, and follow the tracks on the east side of the Gold- rill Valley. The first path turns off almost at once for Bleawick and forward to Howtown. It is one of the finest routes in the Lake Country, passing beneath Place Fell and on a ledge high above the lake. It is quite impossible for wheeled traffic. The next track leads to Boardale, slant- 66| ees Lc. Ts eat CN itty rer . ie ah ist 7 2 bd ID EOS Te es seek | tee POR por can Tatu _ ae re LL heh aon) _ oa ae * VOO OCT e re eh ii , Re rth tigter tt tal » = +s 470° + esa arle Pea woe tn IT ESET trees me re) ae et rs) TO Let Fe bre be 3 i a Stor M Moe al ee ee *.* WR 7 A fete en tee at, art ‘ Pa ed a scr a) a .) J a 7 a CJ ~* re ee a oe | ‘hed ‘ a 7) rats ‘Saal Sat ate J *,.2:* heh aa} ++ # @ @ e+e «Tt ca a o,¢.* Oe a tral Co. oe oe ease + * aa] “ble ttre a) ERROR ROO OT TEES I SOP. rs SU OTT MTtrcr rte fen + * + a. a et bd Od | + a ee at of a r M i t ba **cd hada De, a a a aie eae * a ee eee ee : a a oe a ee ee ee ++ Pe ee ee ee ee ee ee , ' Art | e. + 8 ra * as oe ’ ba ot be eae a 7 ees ’ ae | we Pe +s ca ‘ + Ae ee tame - a. At wad Set dria} etate® Bet Ss fC bd hg r se e eperege . cP Ao ' et be hs wt! 6 - Sg Me je ha i} pee qeerst AIC ae roe *.* a RPO Ot + *4 at Mt Bf beets " 4° * + t * | ed + * + ri r ye in * re | ‘ ee + A i] Pc § Res * 1e A oth ‘s ia * Oe et rhea eS J ** et ‘ . rs * + bs 7 - o o } * 3 7 ee ** Pe 54? = hytenterye rn Ph * 1 A . Ney * A ae tt oe be | + + + 4 INIMOO'T *¢ i Pee . 7 + + .. MP **4e a VN MOG * + — e ; + a» > J es eed * + aa ‘ a) 4 ba a ry os ms . LLY MASTS oe . a Pe + * @ * Se i ee +.¢ 1 : 1 oe red a + + han ee Toe eee & t+ e044 *, ] bre a he be > ee a ttt a a ee i a rer * werent re rf 54, + hdd ae oF + ml F orele Lele e | Mh PEerte PLP re Ste ot he | he bea Get Ae £2 Pee Coe, + + 4.684 4 *@ ye AAA UP r i a) eee Re ero a eebes LA ‘ eh, ae + i" Rot + ‘4 64 4 a ie oe Me FO Oe a Po ee ear Tee RAT Par ed 7a 4, an tot ae eee be — Mae | * ae ar pees a *** ah i i. a A oa C . hl 1 , a * :aka ae tected haga het adi aging toed ant te ea ad a Ullswater & the East Fells ing up the hillside past a farm which came to Wordsworth in satisfaction of the debt owing for years to the poet’s father for services rendered to the Lowthers. In his famous “Guide” the poet mentions that this side of Patterdale was, in his younger years, the haunt of wild goats. There are a few still ranging on the Coniston Fells, which have escaped at some time from farms. On the east side of the Goldrill the great hill- side goes forward without a break of a path for some three miles. One reaches the first gorge of importance after passing Brothers Water Bridge, and going through the hamlet of High Hartsop. A few years ago one might have commended this little place also for its old-world buildings and industries, but the beauties have been exploited. On the hillside are perched bungalows and tiny houses of modern design, I hesitate to condemn architects, builders, and owners; some day I might need a convenient house in the Lake Country and be faced by the problem of putting it on a fresh site, The great gorge beyond Hartsop comes down from Hayeswater—a tarn turned into a reservoir but not immediately damaged—and from it a track goes forward to Mardale and Haweswater. 67 + é Pe ROUOR BLN ory a. 7 rr Say bl Hee by ¢ tat bes 7 ot F416 ot Pt parE ord beter a ; Re Dy sh YyO LA es sey ar , tats att at wn | > See tat: MOG OR oe IT Dee | net * oie) SPER CMTS RRTU Ste 7 Pe Plearai tans 7 at ary a. eee ee tee OU bP id be Pea yt ye trae het tats lar sf tr > a Nivielepartedbeb-td-faf-bLetingietatonad LI ‘ A 1 4 Poe Mt ot oe Dt St Cte eer eee beat oe Oe tw S spitiinistobrisisieneber li tbe eg eley Lt 3 a J LAWN OC ROOD Fee POO ere AOU Poe - hoeteeere be at + det +4¢ fate * } * ra ee et 2 eth se BE Te oe ot of oe fie 014 4/1 $14 616 A ee +P he hee eae tet reeeere te totahabstetekbivdetetesebil atid ieieiela pets r AT eT: + * O10 .b sets tb eteatens: or Loa aS hs ef 5e42 - 4 Veto CH rie Gah ok ee oe slaieiessitit ahete “tebe ltiy, ak cepep eb stittobete bliin leishneistlsi> Peet ereoral als Pe » Se AF shy * oe ** Ff an re - + ba ye 45" +.2,%, ti + s+ ew & +,*.+ rtI tc en Pi Pe te ee - - - o ——— * se 9 - a “ae | ie bat | 4 i ee hs we ys Pt : : + — 4 koh + * . . ry s . . ‘ . wo ee se oe eS « ow A AS ASA L ry ai A OOCA OU) Oc iy 6908 Perched iy) three b7 Cae OS POE ENE bee re Ullswater & the East Fells In summer this route is quite evident, though care must be taken to spot the track immediately one nears Hayeswater, and so save a roughish scramble. Really, however, the side ol High Street (the mountain) is no more than a stiff pull anywhere. The obstacle is at worst loose scree. If, however, the hour is late, the traveller had better find the , | sat right place to cross the long sweeping ridge. The climb over High Street itself and descent down Long Stile to Mardale in gathering sloom is not too pleasant for a first-timer. The right path cuts across the ridge at the lowest point between Hich Street and Kidsty Pike, climbs a few feet to the left, then makes a long sweeping descent down grass into Riggindale. There is no difficulty once the ridge is definitely crossed, but an error on the errs +,’ we ee Aha 2 techs 7 As a VOUOrHOe . . . ‘ ve si toe of Pe “x fw OG ipigisiseeteetiebege AOU Ce ty tee the Uae | a i! Srey +949 was rs 4", m + ie be fd Pe a ‘ re te be | od be | a ry ‘ * 4 &@ . rs a” ales Poe be te Coe Pe he Ae RAO +s ae a a*,4 +.0,8°4*,4 e106 a Tact? Sr RRS GRRE ENTE be be to J . of + + + * rie he ar ed 4 sae be ae heh bd 4 re ye ee + o,* 4 te s+ ee - ‘ Pt 7 Toth 4" 416 > ot re Pat 4 yt a hr Perr Le Oa a ply eet «4/6 6.4 @ 6540 4.4 L u * co top usually means that the walker reaches Martin- dale instead of Mardale, and there are hours of labour lost. A little glen striking off from the right of Hayeswater Ghyll near its foot makes a pleasant alternative route to Troutbeck for one determined not to cross Kirkstone Pass by road. ‘The path is perfectly easy to find, being confined between PA *@ 6.4 PH lang § os 3 ft ot wea Ga at +:* & ere a. i We & at i et Oe be be be Fa MES See FU OL ments aa ce be te eee wh ie eae eA ee Pe 2 hr be a to ee aay “are SL Yt ee Ot wit aed bene Ma a - rf E 4 A Ce steep slopes, but the saving of time and effort 1s practically nothing. You lose much in wandering 68 ar. ‘ea © UE ee te ae rain be Snahd bd tered er adieed DULL beat Ca) " Le oe et oe Ol ae . 7 ae | bd **é@ebee aa *- «i+ ee ase rT ae 4s eh @ Se Ce bees ee oe eo es ae -e4.4 Pe se ‘4 a ti | ent Oat aa sia) er tam ee er a a + 41% Poe) * ape’ ay a a. 6 Aee ee ae Soa? Le cy . 4 an + f * ‘+ an rd oe * a 3G FY PA ehie ne er i r' . tie reine oe sae ‘ Lar eh Ullswater & the East Fells down the rough head of Troutbeck. Personally, instead of dropping down to Troutbeck Parks, I prefer to swing right-handed at the head of the pass, and make for the road on Woundale Moss, a iy good mile further up than the Queen’s Head Hotel. These are the offshoots from the head of Ulls- bie water. On the south side of the lake there is a fine glen, Martindale, where wild red deer still survive. ‘The forest is still governable by laws | which served in the time of Queen Elizabeth. Tenants are still accountable to their manorial lord for the proper guarding of the deer passes should the chase by hounds ever come into vogue again. However, the duty is not required, for deer are stalked under conditions similar to those in the Highlands. Within the past twenty years two “ Royal” stags have been shot—one by the ex-Kaiser, the other by Viscount Ullswater, who was formerly Speaker of the House of Commons. There are paths from Martindale in several direc- tions. One goes by the lake shore to Bleawick, as + bd 7 * fhe rtr goa teas Pee pee] Yh, 0 eer) ha: ets. UOT okra AE br PTT St ete t Ut, esteem er Lu torte a * Trotter Ee PCa r race ro] a + ot he ts 4 OO Seri Aro toes ob oo aie ‘ Fis ERIE Cr SPs oT eee Ty ea Oe beh eae Pad Mee be tears Phe COT ba Pet eae! Obi ecethtie. eit. 6.6: ot 2 oi spotetas atrboge nie degeitieeetedet nt ret aree Ter ortat ’ ie. 9.0) 01010 Leh * . > + REASON RE oe [eat +e ee ad RA MICM TIM RMN NTE aa a) ' : WaT eee sea "4 + bs Fey's i + Me Cit eh At 4 Ro Ptacte hs mar sasstecbiatecd's Ses ther er ges ere ar ott Pee esC OT et Stott eS it tet delet cab aelepd le itstabetef Llnisisbeatiotabetelecaatblabspiaatotied e+ + +4 te breretes .ble* te a ae satel sich lini already mentioned ; another connects with Boar- vie dale Hause ; there is a way out to the right of the ) dale head to Hayeswater and High Hartsop. 2 The paths towards Haweswater are not very ‘ direct. ‘There is also considerable danger of going We 69” a 4 = ‘De bs t il a sional A . cs a eta oe hd ; 7 sa i a a A a as S rn _ rT rw yo es at #7 % Ls + ‘a ** - . 4,947. bre ea" . 9 - J ahs as yr oe ig $,*\¢ sas ot’ et eh Pt _ ft PRATVO OO OA CORA YH ale tea OR SUMAN ap 4 4 i” a . ' ia SHI er brerte’. Pi ‘ ree ot *.¢@ 4 ek pg yh se a*ety* rep i, “a Ps a my we sttedeeeti em) oe | A os N Pg | ot eed bo 7 * a) ow Pye by od Sed id Ly a et Pua athe 7. a a ee en nd * wert | Ay tor ad tone a: M i: ee ei ee Ps * 67s a La a Pe * * | * a Pete er ae pt s*, 8 erg ytie s'e 4 °4* 0 6 6.8.8.6 y i : ae ee ee a a a Sybcsecrbrtabetereneresey te testeperens tye squteetetsta sy unenereren tert te p ” | ge It cd : ee a bl & + +4 dee ba beh he a) 7 m 7 ae | Pet od ee Val fe PPS I Ae VIC Silk a ie we ee Oh Ue tee oe oe wd Oe dr) be aoe be er hPL ML Se he he bere Si ney 4 mh RAMI LT Ott rr At) 4 / : o i L 7 oe ee +4 r a oiei6 S 8 4.40 $16 6° ort the ad | é 4 fi 4 «| J te oe ee | " rs . a UO 9 ee eee ae ey - 4 Fee te Fi | be Oo bd br he bree Sree bd we hs et Bd eed eu. ne a ba bs OY aU Pi ha WH be bt be be Oe ber al, Va bed ere 7 toe e+ 4 ey § © OS *,+ ¢,% “eee OCU Tee Fd is He aed + Cm 740 ALF bf bh be baba be Depeche te eee eS UL ee Lot te Be ee Ge er oe or ee eth of Whe © 6 (+, b50 8 & A *)4 *,4 §& & Md ad + Tr oe ee ~ as Ullswater & the East Fells astray at that puzzle point of the East Fells, the corner of Kidsty Pike. One would recommend a return from Mardale into Martindale rather than by the usual path which comes down Fusedale. The latter is no more than a mere cleft in the ridge, with little individuality of its own. To the motoring folk—and their number is legion—Penrith is a town worth consideration. It is a first-rate centre for short runs. In twenty miles you breathe the air of the Border beyond Carlisle; you travel the long scapes “Back o Skiddaw”; Keswick is not far away; there is an infinity of pretty routes about the parishes which cover the old Inglewood Forest. One can explore the great trough of the River Eden from Corby with its lovely walks up to Kirkby Stephen where the stream escapes from Mallerstang Fells—every mile full of beauty with scenes as at Nunnery and Armathwaite, which cannot be matched within the Lake Country itself. ‘There are quaint old glens east of Shap. The car can pass from Penrith by Morland to Crosby Ravensworth, and over to Orton, where there used to be a famous ghost. The return can be made by the hill road, always less than good, to Shap Thorn, and down the great main road which saw 70 eea — a0 Ce. i 1 rues or eh i: PtP hs hy hy LI ret +)* 4 reste a i + # J * + <7 i* *i* big fiske}ar: 4)s7.748 ae | Ps - + \* * Se eee > ad *iar etal! of ha ‘ * : Phd 7 tren me Lene SEN HE eH ree | ER) ha a eee, aoe 7 | | tek crs La en + ae \ aad ei. os + Ps an] * y s wi aT ee « Aah, Lee) I: ba | i ee > ee bleitiersy rts dd ++ Par 4 - rir iT * A oh th coe es men ddl tctrtiog* ‘ if. ethos co PtP ** i a7 «* * « @« * a a Sah * e+ ¢ . wes 4 a + + * a ¥ ee Se Lae rt Na * > ae 2 “4+ Te enh eens + * * eto rtoe oth mercer ?, + + wrt 7 La . + rd 7 Pat 3 i Sree ee Peta + oI CC . t ae : nan sa ree ee r >ied al Ae de a ie dda alta 7 ae . a i a ed re ad ed eee a ee ee ee ee ee eee ‘ * - cS . * : er ee - oe oe ee — a a - . _- *# - 2 ee ee oe ee ee ee . a lll © 2 wo + a - 7 Ld Pel a J an. * 4 - ea Seal ae | baie lid Cs eae oe * 4*, aa) e. ee we * * t , t +". #4 art rm 4 4" tt woe sh a. *e,' S.414 « . Lye " tS " A a ae oJ * a} Paar FOL 7 rei 4 oe dl ‘ 4°, ¢ on te ' nin a Pats bebe | a oe *e +. %,44 ra vt t sa’ ge? a a *4 ost ee PTA eee. a ee | J i Seg be ae ¢. HNO.LS MUM red *,? _ oA Pt wt be Pr r 4-++ + _ an + ~ Pea = AA + os" ® ++ # Se el ~ , + + ad , G*. 4.2 ~~ Ce as a r Se) _ I oe . Saeed RT ul - * - * * 3 CIN \ 5* s* heh rs 4 ree Ga . - — @ 84 — ~ aor a. * r ee and = ae - aoe, °’ a - _ es Pee bei = -_ as 8 ated — — — 4 e+ 4 i — — = ed os - — . ” _— - — ow r 7 wt - ») eet: Uy i ir m jt til tH" Leer a. oe) ; & ¢,h 4 a. ee | HoUVAA S * J eo ae a rhe Co. ae oes bok Sik ed “tri J. es Poe CLIT oe ee | Sa iA oe cf ae Oe be ot es * * + eee eta ns, | 7. 4 Li ‘hd i | Le Se ed Sad | ne ee * ‘ etal bt eed a Por se he a et Jn) Cf OH et a. a eee Lee | A en a + 4. i t nl 7 cy Me, vt Pe oy o + a os ] 4 an ee . + + +Ullswater & the East Fells the last of Bonnie Prince Charlie’s warriors racing north to escape their doom for a plucky effort to scare the Hanoverian George from his throne. The Scots came down Shap Fell pretty smartly ; when their rearguard was attacked by Cumber- land’s forces from Yorkshire, the cavalry went on at full speed from Clifton Moor to beyond Penrith, leaving the infantry to its fate. In this area south of Penrith is old Whinfell Forest, and the castles of Brougham and Appleby. This town was once among the six greatest places in the North of England, ranking with York. To-day it remains a village where every foundation is laid in the carcass of a city ruined soon after William Rufus placed his garrison on the sand- stone ridge of Carlisle, and the Esk became the northern boundary of Norman England. From Shap Fell to the Border is really warrior-land. In every parish there is fortified hall or castle; in many the church has its stronghold for men and cattle. ‘The Scots came over in many an incursion to avenge thieving raids from the south. Right among the Fells is the square tower which is all that remains of Shap Abbey; there are ancient halls at Yanwath and Cliburn, and a grim castle on the remains of the Roman fortress at Broug- 71 5 oe te a ————— st Sal, — _ rs ae: oa tes Set a ie ——— ae = = : > rs er ted Mo te ee o 65°14 ot ote bd hd be St a pate Mota 352 Mot oe eo Pah otot ey rt?) ae Pitty oa asetep ial tie lolabactisteds: ry he te br ert AL a ee . Sere ret tt ieete Pt te ayant earetesteeie Moses STC oo sT aa > mt Pon fare — ee i + rTrrniwory ea CU Aor aa rs Steet Pee AG Stet ot | * a diebehivinardacrtet-tiekeiatd Pe oes a 4 TRA Ie ie eS | . Ce hee etd e"ebe: hy ESCA EEE BY SEC Saree tres eyes Portree be i 1 " a Asst! + eae bs be pesos Papensom su rrasetres rer tr) *e + oT) Fa irre: ar a ie | + ry 4 @ "14 .e:* @.% e:10:.° , e bie, tn errr otrtrons Danes tee eee oe PTE ESE bebe Sete Ot 7? Seer attty 7 + it tt WeeTethle et ered sl aterasitce ole tatelats hee : *ee e a ot ¢ ; ree). a visisteiststet aE SCA COW SCRE S ToT ree : ete écrit tae otis Par hr or’ CHT he | Porys i Peay rad+ ‘ tal ePetrqoreqey? tation! ei We | . a Orr . rs ofa at ad Wh 0 9d SE od ts * eh Pas «*\* ee) Py ‘bgt | FS CS ‘ 7 + a oe OR | ae ATA Ot POO S oe oes i +¢ - ee et er een ny a PO yt of as a * ai ot) ¥ hd : . * ‘ ete) a - * - | ° 7 -_ - ee lk. ‘ iu ‘ rts et Sn eee A 5 . - —_ 3 eS SS ATS Wd WATE RU AR PU CTE On tie Pirate Pt Ok hk ras be babe bile wor LN Oy OIC Jee hd ° apegerbee + ati hata ye 8 tet fe OA Wy tr Pe he be other oe be My Hey ’ og bd . o Py . a sy ~ A OAC Se te ot ee ee ru Co se. Pt hea Aa when A ri ae ee Oe er ee ee >_— : *s 4.4% « i Oe Be ke ey he ae rs r a. es eS * Pe OE rn ET ee Shee Paes er a i el et bd rh + LAP a’ fies td ee tot oe + be,’ ee © 6,056,444; ¢)4 6.9.4 7 ‘ oo ae | - A, 4 PECs * 245% , a ee ea + bl ‘wae ‘ ha ‘yu ie i er oe =, ° @.+ + #¢€ Ullswater & the East Fells ham. Of modern buildings there is Lowther Castle, a glimpse at which is possible from the public road to Haweswater which crosses its park, but the house itself is rarely shown to visitors. Here it is proper to interpolate the tragedy of Haweswater. After Ullswater, it is the only lake on the east side of the Lake Country. Within the past few years Manchester has purchased the whole tract from Kentmere High Street down to Bampton, and is actively preparing three great dams which will drown out Mardale, Swindale, and Heltondale. Probably there will be left to the visitor a path along the shore of the reservoir as access to those lovely coves which hold Small Water and Blea Water, the finest of our mountain tarns. The ruin of Haweswater will change the whole aspect of the East Fells. Hitherto they have been practically unvisited ; now they will be inaccessible. The dreary corner known as Wet Sleddale is to be crossed by a light railway taking materials to the dam. When the rails are lifted we shall have a monstrosity like that which passes up Derwentdale to the great dam which Shefheld and kindred cities built among the Derbyshire moors.CHAPTER IV OVER THE GREAT RIDGES: FAIRFIELD & HELVELLYN AM told that the fierce joys of rock-climbing have drawn mountain-lovers into the narrow compass of rugged peaks round Langdale, Wasdale, Buttermere, or Ennerdale. I do not admit that the other heights are neglected: indeed, there is more ridge-walking than ever. The motor has rendered every fell accessible, and the most in- veterate rock-experts come out on to the grass and scree, as they say, for “a real holiday.” Mr. Howard Somervell, who has led great attacks on Mount Everest, climbing to 28,000 feet without the aid of oxygen apparatus, is one of those who consider themselves as fell-walkers first and as rock-climbers afterward. I have heard him say that *‘ to-day he would go off for a rock-climb because he did not feel energetic enough for a hard day on the ridges!” But, then, Mr. Somervell was ever the hardiest of walkers. There is an in- creasing cult, every member of which has topped every ascent over 2,500 feet in the Lake Country. 73 th fh a ae he a we asin E , © on ae en *j ~ _ : te a a rer es Ee oO tothe SEDO CIC MIOOLeh A 4! eon riore Mr sressta RTS Tay eee a TING A y tat ,tietatst ce ceth $10 6 6.61% bee dd BY We hoe Be by te peuiescyerors Mere sStecat presse 07h) ie | tetepepe a —— ~ wi Sede ge ae ee IT Wires rare cero FT ors het ot tor PPP art bea Ty betta ot 7 P. FS Oreste Oh nee ts oe Oty th, JETT ct obs LL: *'* 4 @ #6 #.4',°44 18 hd oe Pe ee a Str. [7 .e. " aeisteded lei iniepedsrdny ‘Tt: P eee «+4 o eta? *. sie ivirnietetsy at ‘ at ie.¢ stave? a the ee * ee bee ret Eee eee eae etter Pea aht iid ++ * os + . La. ts aPielayel* ICTR Urea em OCT IOS Tce o yr PI Per! a Pe it PSF EPR IE) ¢ i Ps ALAS VTi Ogaon Ons Po ee ee Phe 2 ee Ve ht Oe oe oe oe Bee es : / f hl , su ae rors eae + ot be Ga wre fe Mi eat SO Dan feet ere Cc nO Cu me LF weetSahat ot i oe Oe - ed | | A AU bra’: a "7 hee 8 i baa fd bal Le Ps +a Ps * prick teingere rics o PPOOS SB sa rt a Lee n | ne or ee | ns a oe eee | i ae Soy Ot ds be oe heer os | ied te 4 + ye ete ety an bee erent RNA Re oe the +6 sd an | ee ey Pee a ee ee oe b?g*h*, + 0 + 0 4° Oo Ot ey ere beh d be Oe Petre rie se i Coe iJ $.6 es s+ io 4 an ae a 6,%:458,6.4,8°6 6 >t a) * 4 e;e,4 4 rs ++ sTg* § + * > 66 ¢ Sot oe Pe ee ee reed Plat | bf arty er ‘bee + a wie * es a. oe Pe AAT Wea? ee Sh PP URS LS Rees (an Le te te ee Gar aoe Pee Pt We ne bf be ei uf mi : i 4 7 oe 7 Ae | 4, *. TY ee ed od * a o + 4 ’ * «$4 44 e a ft en Pee Pe Ue ieee oe ee oe Ut ee bed a spo feteerteees +47t- oe es ' thee | . z iy! AAA AG - hs si ‘Vi. at > De i te | ae ips | it ' a oe A ‘ . i tee | oT ea td i be a’. 4 4” 7 * tor ad n bd + : 14 a ba Ob be eres A one oe ort ; *) + ** 4.04 t Yt See ee ek * apo tere feTetryepereremetyrerersyior ty Ae tt nt rr et er be Pee Pet ECC A Ot bee OF Oe “ewes? 3. if ad ra ht Se; dd ed ed Pr ee he sa +e ts O16) Sein ash s 0 st-felsfajepes st ta be bd el ae 4* . ; P PtP bg a . a ~ OO Ute Th) ld We UL yi a) ke ILI 1 he oe hed ah La a te ot Sree se $14 #144 64 ed wy br SL yet Ot or Pe BL Pe Pee ee be be Din) ey ted Yee #70, 455,650, 9,0, 4° ee M, ) peel a Hae Ce oT +. Over the Great Ridges The list numbers about seventy actual tops, and includes the tip of the Pillar stone, which juts over Ennerdale, and gives just a touch of rock- mountaineering to the game. There are many inveterate fell-walkers. ‘To us the great rocks are subsidiary to other joys. We must climb to the high ground where the fresh gale sweeps, and whence we can look down on dale and lake, monarchs (in mind, at any rate) of all we survey. A favourite high-level tour passes from Kirkstone Pass over Red Screes, Fairfield, and Helvellyn to the Sticks Pass north of the latter mountain. At every season of the year it is in- teresting all the way. A strong rambler, starting early in the day, may make the tour ere sunset. I have done so fairly often. But you must start early to do it comfortably. Once I crossed the summit of Helvellyn at sunrise on my way south. Fairfield and Red Screes were easily conquered, and then I marched over Caudale Moor to Kent- mere High Street and Mardale, catching the evening train at Shap. I concede that this was a tolerable bit of walking. In winter one may have a rough struggle with almost any ridge on the route, for the slope may be sheathed in ice, too steep for ordinary walking. 74LOOKING rFROM THE ROCK S TO ULLSWATER \Vordsworth had an estate in this country-side. . a hy fale *e¢@ aha ie | ale ea a) La ee aera | ee + a _ tik; an a eo han ah] MH ? nr.) bat tis ad SOA aot oA Tore * * a4 4 is ot Ss a é pe bet a. hv Pate tet el , ** oo) 0. ble riebith i a lg a a rar 4 Seer ee *+ + + at 4 a yo - rere * o}eis]+) a eh ad | + ** RU OC et ory Se eet oe 14.07 070, 8 8 delet a® eee oh i ror | i ‘ + p ‘ inkaly -hatimteldderied te + + s *@ F1e « a orh rare het ath eite ee “ ae +teth® ee eats bt aae ee ra me a ++ #.@ * * siete * cane? PUGROOOOU rit M: te Ce ieibialeta: take 38; i oroe aftitigniest ss A ehe * **- Lane) eee ha et a . Sd + ¥.* rs oe Ot AP Le tri C7 Ler wires *) 41° i2.¢ Pag hei g Pera Per be kal t., a hae rarer wo ‘eT SIT * ie 4 # © pe ae heise s ne Mea TUL ne RMR oer s ok bt Pe oe ee es , + 7 ee ee rm > - + + a ra. Se | Ad a — fy oa a ae ee mm a a eG Nee r ae LA tessau + td Ca) . 7 aseckie Ath Le he Sn Pet be a 3 i : 2. fe aa 8 a | * - ae * Ps aie Ps * . Cs a ee | as + J a 7 o Pt . et tao ae * ee ee + +} * @ * ime’ ie a vie os a | oe | a ee a we a Tia ie be be co 5 cor hole 1h Sie Be 4 * + lel J an 7 +s ,° * + * tenenperniicis A ae | rr a" - yt he he be i To LL heen, eM r ee te] me _ tory tet? ° *- rs ae. — _. ee | * * baie a 7 * i? ier : ; “ eel Pog ha" ee * ‘ + a Co - oe. ts at be &, ’ srtareertriminisp oe ore ee oe be &,* 4+ * © #6. 4 Te ee ee oor e tee bbe,’ acer oe Toe ae Pe er ; ole gy Oe ete | i Se + Oe ed Pa ee ee : ® rr it ae ot} ee H D . tJ 8 AOver the Great Ridges I have been out on Helvellyn in snow and a heavy gale, and the experience was terrific. One could scarcely make headway against the blast, and the snow rasped like a file across one’s face. In miles the traverse from Kirkstone Inn to Sticks Pass may not be great, but there are steep rises and abrupt falls all the way. From the level road and back again the total ascent must be equal to a big day among the Alps. Less active folks may break the journey into three portions. Red Screes and Hart Crag may be taken from Ambleside ; Fairfield and its outliers from Patterdale or Grasmere; the Helvellyn ridge from Wythburn. But that is playing with a real proposition in fell-walking, reducing it to a mere cup-and-ball game to be played on a fine afternoon. The little inn at Kirkstone Pass should be reached by the footpath up by Stockghyll Force—a mile or so further than the rough metalled road, but more interesting. I prefer to climb the edge of the Stock Valley rather than to wander up the long easy back of Red Screes from Ambleside. ‘The steep pull from the pass is really worth while. Youcan go, to the left, where ledges rise steeply and include bits where a scramble on hands and knees is the best method of progress, 75 7 ; a. Ps Parr ‘ gciere a. ‘ie My a POET Sry te wit Ot trbeddlaigeehetreeet ets, me ot Mt beh : ; +0144! vor ree il Pl - ys pa Ee bad Ga eee Petts Foto sruty al cra! iN arate a 4 Ai i ae eos aT ae seem TOO TU bene: ir ry sree ‘ a > wh sjeter ’ Le eee et tt hehe eess RSE MH MMOS PtP assets + -*¢ wr of PGP aon eor ers Cl rhe tog be bes PEP ooE ior Ce arora ee shgsielaisscbielesd inetodandars tebatioteioferieeel Be nee ’ 7 7. ry oe bh belt ely ee eee ae PUG tae GOTO Rates Cert ene ote ty y bates t. 44h mbes debe noerlobrit . i oe Oe t ae ok i 3 Ot eii*h ch otboathtark bitaesletercteaselectaeate pepe eet ate Ce br aeae oe a AY ry. P ‘ es a Rr yr eer eeak Be: Ps Fee i+ Re Sete tar het eee ee awe so tit it isieis CIMA iy tak crete RNs sialekabeieispdaiel elias PEPE MCY Tees oto OT Ol bi aoe eA habe be ar ' as _ * P ++ Pt et ee +a 2 ore erie ie Tt jhogariag heal rretectrar cr dh) yy, *.* *,# bf + bie ** = — ——; Or we Je a M J te bes oe rs 2 ™ en VOUOU ves mm soja Mg ‘| se, ee oC »* od ed 7 A i *.% 4 * a 4 he > | a ws ie ee er) ere bg + 7 ae eye +) 4 +e Vare a 7 + ‘ - te OU peat BY ne Ht i ely ae Phy af" a 5 ae bet Yi tt eee Pet bd *a* + t hy . ‘tee We | , a ties a FUT + i | wore es Le Oe bad be bw bake ha | ** Poe Pe COE OT OUIEM Poe ihe OFLU Pier be, a°s*e 67 s*e, A oti eee ashen eet 0 be te * 4 * RTT LM tone Se pe he) # beth : a Ab a* - Ct ag thier Ua es od eee et. ‘ a oe ed + § 4 4 454 @ 4 a*iéee “sat hs 4° yercos. - Thee tear *d1e,Pie ofegeie. 8.8 PSP ee dt a Set At aun yy AA et a * a etre ot We M2 yy ae ares ee ees FES i Wate To.) i " oY i Oe Lo eee ee ee oe rae * 4 rt, a) ie ere 4 eg . i. Tt a4 i}. . 3 a 4 a t 4 4 Whelan be be ee boa by + be mia * rd th ot te ‘° fe gM #914 Ot noe FO er ah eet. a) a 4 a7ats yr ty &,¢: 6 i A " ss? or PS) ‘aoe a ae Ce et 7 - 7. a ee Oe SU or br eek eae *ie a . ortetepierersmttistarend ato iegejoy= elie" Uh eerrtt ra beh | nf babe eS ae ont PEI IG ri*s* rear “et . ee * «2* - * » ~ | ete ey Pcs oy 4 Uh a oe aa ra Per Sia 4-4 4.6 * ed i be SC er ety : be ow #4 4,6) @, 408, 4+) 7 we we ee ee ae et et ee ee ++ * + **. + a eee Over the Great Ridges The point at which the ascent of Red Screes starts is obvious. Either at the little sign marking the actual pass head, or a hundred yards further on where a gate gives way on to the grassy moor. Take to the right at this gate, and avoid the gaping gravel pit in front. You can then take the soundest spit of ground and so mount the fell. There is no path to be observed, but the easiest going is on the southern edge of the great bastion, for which one swings up and across the hillside. The northern edge has a wonderful view down into the pass with the square of Brothers Water below. It is the harder route, but really there is no danger. If the mist rolls round there may be some little uncertainty about the way, but there is only one top to Red Screes, and that is be- yond the only narrow ridge on this side the mountain. The mountain top is really a long comber of grass with a few rocks protruding. ‘There is nothing attractive like the last cone of Scafell Pike, but the outlook is splendid. +.” Real oe i i ‘¢« yc at} . i7,°.9 rhe Md ied * * crite) fest, "7 Oh rad of * athe : A ] rat Tro : Lar TT +e 44 Ta | A : . ye hoo tt ;= . a toe ti ++ + « ad ++ Mi ea" SP fat a s Cys hes ret tas ier a Leas oa 7s" a 4 Pare a ee bi * ‘hee ticdels oblate ri . ‘ . Pome Ph ey 5 bebeney mse yeore ts ak. — | oe ae re tet! mr rar oJ + are e**ee#¢ *\¢ 7+ bd ,* Leh Meer irerte + Oto ore sale J of + ’ rs a. : rept | oiei ti 22 e eale bebe rene oa ed siete Mme ate ayerin a * . ‘ a Tt i- ae Fi arhie ‘ STS lad | ae ree *; ¢, ys r. eee tt) iH Pp - ied , , ae Serer re Pt ft i] PBL | Pi 5 i * 4 € » us # a a eet fe elite —T Pet he 4 ; a. } ord / aad, rr" Tale ; +i ** . ULLSWATER The Path beneath Place Fell, is a recommended walk from Howtown or Patterdale. . - & a a - me a iiind anette * *.*.* +, 4 Th . a 4 — . 4+ @ + @ 6 @.4,4 4*a: ee et) we *1*, 94°, 9.418 ot or diy Pi . - ee Oa * Lh it ‘PyTry Oe 6 annie 0 ' es - * * a RU a . ‘ ’ 7 * + *f 1 aed er b*e oe Led he ++ ** +? 7 44 Sah eh wea ew 4 . 7 ® Teeter + i . oh ‘ 4 * i **#ee Ae Netw * © Hs 4* roa’ P4. tt es 7 a A a oe | *e+e PENT Te it Pet a me ’ werent i as a Poe Pot bd bi os a *ee¢ tal out el oak ya bd bi » +i 4” oe Ot Ce + ++ ie | - a ¢ + 4.6 *.4 24 ae PF bee be -+* ee td he od od be a) + e f Cer? 7" ee rs *e a4 * +s se + % + = . * + * * ry OT bd be oe + >." aa | sae ey Sk | Ca. ese 4 * 4 SC od or = he eee oo ae t pats IC: Us es A iad ‘"s oe ‘ 7 be eg 7. + eae * + 4 ‘- OT * ts La. ae BL ry a a oe a . ad a) r*. +e 44 8 6 as oo : r - 4 ae * sheeple ar ae | oF ees 4 * +s or + Sis a at Lee +a ' UG “ 1 +a, a +4 a ee ee Tt are see Se ee ps rr oe ie + es bee o @ +%4 a a | iOver the Great Ridges forests of coppice and larch and pine. Ullswater is seen through a tangle of hill-tops, and the great central knot of mountains makes a fine puzzle for the unwary. It seems incredible that such spacious valleys as Langdale, Eskdale, Borrowdale, and Grasmere should be hidden in this rippling maze of rock and scree. From Red Screes on a clear day the route is obvious. ‘To the novice, however, it looks a dis- turbing distance to Fairfield, across many ridges. It looks, too, as though some of the way may be steep, rocky, and narrow. Really the route is fair. There is a “ bridge” on and off Wrangdale Head, where the path takes across the worst piece, but there is nothing sensational. Striding Edge is incomparably more difficult. I like the ramble to Fairfield because its ridges are so quiet. Rarely, indeed, does one meet another traveller. This is shepherds’ country with a good rail boun- dary between Patterdale and Grasmere Manors. You hear the curlew and the plover, hear too the call of carrion crows and the barks of grim old ravens, as well as the mewing of buzzards mighty enough of wing to be taken for eagles. Up here one may come into close touch, even on a summer day, with Reynard the fox, particularly if there is 79 ee ee ee ee ee * ee ee [Oot Bron BASU Sry wih, Ce bee | rr rs *a10' nti 016 S10 eedaal | Phe Or pes | Hew ( thy rghy VL ran ' RT ee rn Y ri ri revit L Pe OOTY Oth bohivinberbss sree rG wee bf a be Got ot eo pO Pee Sib es blk Linipbetetinhdjeleda tay ot dotatgtiy . a. tT Orb BAA er a i NE Se 4otla bret ayee brethtietaee POON HT TOT, Ot oe TR Pt 7" rhe. + : ' joieisiatogeieteistebat lait itieted Srdats hati etetepetdrialtetd-fe bts oe oe rt sits a = oe a Rete te oe he Pree ee . 3 Hf a : F wr ry - 7 Pir PTs FTL, = * +i. * be be b- TORT RDS HOE Ss PLEO STT SST Ro Taa eoean reat T eet ait sth Nae taE IIE: PERSE HT ETE arte PT os. o err 7 wwe PP) * uh aro cKTS oe Pent " 4 FU Re erst mrmecrie Cre ska wt PAPA or os 4,4. *.F eat PE OL = ee ee a ee = + * a FdSitrict _ a bee c : i ie oe in . 4 + Pe ad a ae ee Oe ‘ ee ateba : i. Ps ¢ eet @ o A *s*,* Pid td 49 at ee Pe oe OF be a*yhs* — anes OLE o * a : a a7 . Pte Meee ey ee oI = ~@ > 4 oe tet | A i * it Rb ot " + Sa | Fs . tk % $3 + sadllcd ig P a ee hed a en rs io WW WY ee ye ore yt WORF OC OT bd > de et bs baad hot oe Pare os een’ Ps aa *+,4* a rf ns a4 he 4? t rt Pd be eo ott eer rr Mote bf OO ; om at yt yee a h ’ oi SORT SES MARA RSREEET REST Ae #i: bet @ *7,.*,¢ Fs +} hs +>? ae rt | Vs PULA FO! - hed Gr eeent year roe) ba | PC ne we aa o + a ae ’ ‘+ rs + Pod be Dy phy bees yb A riot hd el hd 47 Pi*s oe * J eG tees AL a er oe tt rae Ht Se wy ber ty be rh Pe he eh Ge ee i. ‘ Be ed a Pd POD a se aiee a Pied af ee) | tt ee ae. " - +_* rm i Pad Vee ators ry ++ A UCHLI Ln LOLI Fe tied 4 8 Bg Per ee bereits Lt PO in ba ht Sen a | _ ; ’ une et ‘ SC iy jg mene 8 ** & a Cy | j°g%,?° art A seiteereretent teria Pedal nn it bee AT oo, 05*.* 9.0.4 8% bt ot er 5 4 a 7) > re ** PT ad ‘+ eee ¢ 4's a i ae oe BF tT Or te LL wt Ped Ge eee be the eae oe et apbedel Totresk reveverieep antes tepere tered detete tte tote . s Md \a Wee ee we ore ed | 456 4 6 * 8 4 ed ' + 44 ee Po) 2 o % * 4.456,% fa a mi a. ae ee ere MOL DUaL eke Miner eet eee i i oe yw of or oe es > dt ad he 4 4 ‘ , ‘ n n arbre’, RPM td by | | Py _ a , ; . Sr ia ot Over the Great Ridges a bit of breeze and some mist to confuse both vision and scent. Fairfield is a massive mountain, a great bone which stretches from Ullswater to the gorge of Rothay. It is not majestic like Helvellyn, still there is pleasure and uplift on its great moor. The rocky patch at Wrangdale Head is merely to scare the timorous. There is really no chance of falling over either side. But—you can get lost on Fairfield quite easily. ‘There are a score of tracks and heaps of stones, any one of which may be the main cairn. ‘The survey-marks add to the difh- culty; they are placed so that fine measurements may be taken from the deep valleys and distant ridges, not to mark the top of the mountain. If one follows the compass line due north the ‘Tarn in Grisedale Pass will shortly be seen down steep and broken screes; to north-west you reach the Tongue Ghyll Pass from Grasmere; due west from Fairfield brings you near Grasmere itself in an hour’s walk. Keep the compass in sight, and follow the direction with patience. Fairfield 1s an easy place to escape from, even in mist. From Fairfield to Helvellyn is a pretty bit of travelling. You can keep the ridge and pass over Seat Sandal, but that is not recommended. ‘Take 80ct 7 ++ + Pi eh asta ee i ty ‘ees 7 6 er itbeindebetay f yank oer oe PO orc 7 zs J ry 3 eS catia cc tithe & +) ath Rt ‘ So o wine a a lem ie 7 Poet | + *4 7 eee or od - Le a Tort *-* ort me i ae. 2 ae a. ve hoe ina A . wot 2> bs rar e hee er terol acs Sea . a ee oe “tite ee wartrerr * * *« ar * een Shr ed oe 7 4 rs > *¢ La —— . «4 PP ud a OI Si6 7 : epbinds? al aa rs > : J - ea - an Peeve rr oi Sal bd ed eh eee hear Md po ehe beers Ut 7 es eed ie a | io * rT GE ae ORR TR os, oe hae = Retiree mt ** * *@% ee bd beh 28 Bed a PT eh a a tot a) ve | are Co - * + rm Le | ri * * oie ¢ Fi¢ia . + | eres a rf 1.* rt ) 7 © ae +i*sleis + t oo «j peas eet ae « +.4 er batted Se nena ahaha 7 ~ beh fea eG n Lea FUN Itbe i i + Ge mi nti oe i r meistee ‘ t ‘+ wt tS rae “ee es - a ** i a o ee itn ed i * “ ‘ee Peg oe os | * * * ‘ a a us a * arr oP eg De al «* ‘ i [oa +,* . + ++ *e 4.4 rh wy tee *-« darts ’ Eas +4 7 > ns bictatatats 4%) eae [-jotstentetrte r Ae oe ae P trae * * = yt | a a a oe a | ry #4 oe ea ie we MH 4 o* @ 4 4 a 7 a ys * rote Whey fn r eet he « 4,+.4 Se ee Pe Po? Te ee! es ~ rh dt ha eR * ‘ rs bed by by ey here eros ta a @ $4,050,544 eet lk ee kts rt 5 P h + . 4 ,Over the Great Ridges the line north down the screes, looking toward Helvellyn, and you will soon find a good line for yourself. Screes are remarkably easy to descend, but take care or you will find a maze of rough boulders between you and grass. My method is to follow fine scree and then swing out for the nearest tongue of grass. In the hollow between the two mountains there is the lovely Grisedale Tarn and some rough scenery along the face of Helvellyn. Dollywaggon Pike, of the fearful name, looks remarkably well, and there is a glimpse of Ullswater far to the right. Naturally the rise from Grisedale Tarn to the Helvellyn Ridge is a hard grind, but the distance is no greater than from Kirkstone to the top of Red Screes. ‘The path is much easier. In the old time it was a pony route. Nowadays we have no fell ponies for hire; they went out with the professional guides, some of whom were quite tolerable companions for hills and dales alike. I have raced from Fairfield to the summit of Dolly- waggon in sixty-one minutes, but that was not yesterday. ‘The last miles to Helvellyn are marvellous. One looks over rocky Cumberland, but the distant blue and gold of Morecambe Bay is not lost. The SI F — 7 nie heat Seni Sl ot Bas . a ne | , “ % i r rs =e case bat edie) ; : he hae kh amet a wa et + - a. e+ *e te 6 A *44 he a} * Pee or we rr oe + +e b Atos aA © Piola atitae eco. biel, is beitigdeirbspindglyto dg indy potialets % hor hs TAM OE ya i, a TRENT Pa TY Pe ob + . : J Pes * a bese tere =p tesla a Gee ee die met 7 See re > WhIAA th 7OC rer wir it yO AR ATUL M PEE LPG OW Oe Get of bd Geen) WM MOH Test ares ary o APA he Hy Oba OS a eee + st rs at ee ao baaek a. +, o\2 pee oy thy hot a *,) beer tipetinisee tito SMTi ot ect SIL Pal br ee ett at a or Sitr ets Brita Oty *ié¢ie.# 675 moet rasta ete Th ay Tha i Orne UROL E ey : v1 - — Sle - 7. 2 ae a Pe ra ron SPORT PUR ORRARR ETS ee treet: tape test SO sig? * ern i+, CM TL PM MS eee ee ee co eit Fore i¢ @ tie & &@ + ee : Ableisis gt POS he erase eT eee PETC : SP date bl MM etre ene et a eee) atleisetetsiets a * ie :ejety ree — Ap , “9 s + - PP 4 a “ ee eM be » Pegs ‘1a, o rm * + a a c : >." *,* ce | a ‘ ty 3 ahs F + + *he « ++ 4” M te #6959 47 4* se ee + Sa ee Pa es 7 M i rn A . a : * 6, #4 4°)" ae ba *, My at Oe ee Oe ORDO ARI heed hn C7 ) fates? 7 * ita 4 bi AJ ; oA i tot: Or be ee ae * POU Pets 4 ee Pee * LJ * és Ati ord bee od by ‘ i*4 9,0 6100 6 rt ed a*,* 4.4 . a ea After ri ta Pas eters. hy tuteterpetere ea ay Lal be wha ROT “eter wt - 5.3 in .a° i EEN SUN ae ne at RR . ..! Le | i rs a ae ba a° pei eeeaae’.* 6 6” POC) CPt bee be bi bak Ot et Ot od be ter a Jt if Wend be ba ee | 4° + SU Cot Wr en Petre ia os rere Je et bake ak wa + bie 4's dia ; . oe he be ee o * ti ® Woane PUNK Detoe MS Sch be “peat tat h ark she 6 4 >+,.*,¢. 4.4 a brats Pd Wf fe tee a 4 * Ps acolo bs 6. 8 4344 6484, °° + th Oe Oe pe! atte re | * *¢ 4.4 a i oe Pot ht Of bf bf wos yest eae eee Pot Stet ores be wets t+ a et Led tel ad a : be a Se b Fh ade + meee the ut ae 6,4.8°6 ahd + Cod ed heel. a ae eee o as ee eo ee ee oe oe "Pr eehea aioe rr, Ay UE bi Ot bh bikin bata py rte nats fore pe Tersapete ROT ia Wd Catt Oe be or ee er ee os * Rit be | a CJteh ft hire be ba be he ed hae | OL Por ee 2s oe ee ee oy 7 ‘ ow * ° Lei eee Pe ee ee Per Sie Cae ed ,* a6 4)6.8 4 6.4/6 456 @. +4 t+ eiqiciiqandststsistoctpryes “>i i = | + Pn ae . a: Over the Great Ridges Solway seems nearer, so does Criffel in Dumfries- shire. The top of Helvellyn is a mere undulating ridge, but the north-east face of the mountain goes down in terrific sweeps. Striding Edge is wonderful, but under summer conditions there is no actual danger. You can keep “ approxi- mately” to the ridge if you do not like the sharp rocks. In winter, however, it is another story. I have hunted on Striding Edge when thaw and rain and snow made it a terrible spot. Red Tarn, far beneath Helvellyn, is a glorious spot even in these days of reservoirs. ‘lraces of engineering never entirely disappear. ‘The little cove north of the peak, Keppel, must have been finer still at one time, but the dam kills all hope of glory. ‘The view from Helvellyn comprises all the mountains of the Lake Country, Cross Fell and Ingleborough of the Pennines, Criffel of Dum- fries, with several lakes. 'Thirlmere, however, is hidden beneath the steep western wall, and there is none too much of Derwentwater. From Helvellyn the walk northward is across grass. ‘To the Sticks Pass there is a sort of ridge, but beyond that the Matterdale sheep walks broaden, and the way is not quite easy in mist. Indeed, under such conditions it is just as well to 82Ce ee ee oe Pe a ee * li | Fl a. fe .. tip iret telet ar. * AAIOOOF SE eo SF ay Sat ri.) an SOT Sf Ad LID or Over the Great Ridges leave the ridge. There is nothing to be seen, the moisture is uncomfortable, and the Vale of St. John down to Threlkeld and Keswick holds far more interest. y | — ht y o57' tt : Port; a | * *',? dss aite - a Sn > Si af ! i ay bi to cae a. ae. $8.4) 4*i* Fi ht ert ee rs yey ah | oo a | ie a 7 bode at TROL t ‘ eee yee Cee tT erees: a ee | SESE NEST et ant FO ed? iojendridt, 4*y¢ als Pare TT lata te + Se ated Ta en ed coset ir 1 *e* +.4#1+ PAT’ Ph 7 dbeietsetds ss 4 +e) ¢ * @ © @ & ero te et et * Pe =. Cee alt ae Par ee ead PT cee) He Ry i Mrnr erent sore nag Ete oe = 8 OT ST * 7 Pt steteraraesé Por Tr or Se 8 ca 4 a2 4 + o,4, yy ++ Ht Lay erettt ae ert aeeatt : Pet ort rerird ° ae ht 4 st! at aa eee Ped’ pt; + wer" Ce aii enya re 7 * SOT. bd belet St: a a ee , ree ee re + 4 a lea Ro i * 1" s rs - rs aT. : eT sd ete h e or" Pa Soea >7 bate SAA LDG Bthe mba Ree 4 eet 4*,* _— {er ' * a ead * 4 we be Ss | . - - "hd bt ‘ | M - Arad . oe) c ! 4 a’ . oF 4 . ae : a ; ) * 7 7 Li ba a Cr wee be eae it wat A ae et Vereen ~ a F ry > yt Wee ee ee + - * + & Pee eee bie a's he ad ee vt so5* 876 rs ett es Oty VW . pi ae Minar bg Ss fi at Pat Ws aa - CHAPTER V rar iy a + Ronee ea A Lt ot oe ee P ree tl eh oi 8 6%," a eM rere te ye CRUMMOCK WATER, BUTTERMERE, & LOWESWATER i4 eye gel at yt , ! reteeneiniteraeneneteptennetetenrete tay s . . + “.+,*,* a ;? i + N these days the visiting popularity of our lakes seems to be somewhat as follows: Win- dermere, Rydal, Grasmere, ‘Thirlmere, Derwent- water, in a string of thirty miles ; then Ullswater, perhaps Coniston, and another string, Bassen- thwaite, Crummock Water, and Buttermere. In a motor-car of moderate power it is far easier to explore Crummock Water and Buttermere by way of Bassenthwaite, Cockermouth, and the Vale of Lorton. The pass of Honister from Borrowdale is frankly perilous to motor trafic; Newlands Hause is severe; the way over Whinlatter Pass, from Braithwaite to Lorton, is steep and not pretty. The new road sweeps through a dreary dalehead, and by carving the hillside whatever relic there might have been of beauty has been destroyed. Do not try the direct route from Whinlatter to Crummock;: it deteriorates and finally topples down a bad slope. The best route is from Keswick to Cocker- 34. a Aa, oes CHES PRP DC rar sed rf a * 1 rt S + a) CJ it.® ut bd ae + oe. 3*4* ae ee oe Ad ae ee RAO Yor he C oes petereteseeeri hs ed ed a , ‘5 To tae ee ee ot eee s+ * a | Ue OL Ol * J 7 o PUP oe pea abd bed bee ba en a Pee © 4,4. *po5% 452.4486 4. 4°h bo +4 4 aoe 4.6% + bie * $i4 403 “ : wat ei Mie eee oe ee Pe id bo, PE Pree | > , TTT Ae peers rete ene # * + + A ’ me es pa, 4 ‘, 77° bebe a "> Le os ot hd ee be Wha *4,* bebe a _ an ( wrererarereere ety ryote Oe asthe LI ++ @ 6 4 he thins a ‘ ee s a Ce OMe Mh ee et Se gy Pere ee ee ee r ee ee ee | ° UO rr a n ot ee tlard eae 4 a i AIO * a Porter or br be oe te ee ee - P ee * el Coe Ped etd | as ta kA bans ha be be Ge oe hain plane be te ho oleae tyes as RI OL be hs tocar bf bd oe Ba ee OE ore ' + oe + vat td ot hl br ee et PLP M P = a t iqipdedpititsi stent Ps 1 Sere en ad LJ bt ag cilia dle eoCrummock Water, Buttermere mouth by Bassenthwaite and the vale of Emble- ton. At Ouse Bridge, where the Derwent escapes from Bassenthwaite Lake, the road sweeps outside the conventional Lake Country altogether. Skid- daw disappears round the corner, and there are humpy moors with only one graceful cone—Hob- carton Pike. 'The vale of Embleton is pretty in a quiet way; it has more fertility and pastoral beauty than most of its neighbours, It 1s sheltered, too, in its depths, and you see some glorious colours in spring and autumn. At Cockermouth we are in Wordsworthshire. The poet was born here in the year 1770, but after childhood and the death of his father he rarely stayed in the place. First Penrith, then the border of Somerset and Devon, Grasmere, and finally Rydal was ‘‘ home.” Cockermouth Castle shows us that we are back in the zone of troubled history. It had consider- able importance as it commanded the merchant way to the old harbours within the Derwent and Ellen estuaries. Commerce with Galloway, Ire- land, and the Isle of Man passed this way ; in the company of merchants there is riches, and riches of old demanded a strong fortress of defence. Cockermouth Castle had an impregnable position, and was established at an early date. We are told 85 ite x so ine a lt cn ee ama eadeenee i '** OGY ett SO NESEY Ne sae " a 7a ey ha RS Eat ties I srtat ata Gras T3 or’ retheistatiece fh Pots OT at ioe | + J Lie oo SET TEN PT sipbeicteticalgcitcdiseds " eet erase pe hes PE Sraeent rest are Ol WW ODDO OO CU OAT ae OFA *\* be ae Lataddabeededsteglea elec ’ Ste Tio ala revo 4 + 6 + Les + A Lt oe oe ee eet 4° rs seciselsbascatsquasbcniashinictedeetecd tb epee ois t eee ROO OCC HOCUS RMS Heth htm ms ertitere rice he f oo re rr a - ie stelvien. Ut isetitetiate toletteld rah abet See beeae eye HL Lora NG: rts eMRr te SeFUT or Fn TR eee CIO em OT noe neat COCO Th ale 7 | - *\+ _ *,%:*54 a bn a LAST art ** + & or tr es Se thet Cat of ehh seo Cot et Oe . Ite Peet ort heed ot aor) rs‘at at eter a v! ee 4 : ‘ . a eae { 5 ‘ he et > an ss o a ‘ 4” i ee WA a US ‘ - Ps ‘ + a a eee s ot ote ote bth a PL * Crummock Water, Buttermere, that there is a canny Scots aspect about the town. rh] MeeyPeoregny? rn nana ‘yr ae wee ory ! OUT ° ms) Qs a ARO r | This has well eluded one’s personal observation, though admittedly there is some of the character of Border Carlisle. Cockermouth, moreover, does not compare easily with Penrith or Kendal or Appleby, the other ancient towns in the counties. In Lorton Vale there is return to the fells, to sheep walks instead of grazing lands, to rattling Cocker instead of swinging Derwent. On foot the | PT 4 *+ a oe ptete?,- a a ee A arcs DO LANA iss A RPC) ate ’ eC he pe bee + RO +s Pha: oS a tort 4+, - . boa es bch tl it of a. ROR NS AUG Pe a * @.¢.076 b*%4*s" 6" MO Sree bt a A miles would seem weary, but no one need tramp this route to Crummock Water from Keswick. 3 ATEA Totes ce ht thar ee ty ete atety res be Tons DFO Hveddre ea 4 ee LP oe oe Pe a eo ee | Pe ae ee ee af (ekg Ov be at? oe ee AG ot) ia Ss”, Ae oe oe There is a far finer and more direct route over the low Coledale Pass, almost due west from Braith- waite to the foot of the mere. All the same, there is a quiet interest in Lorton. ‘There are relics of } ‘ ‘ * 4 tC vt ot a | P| Pi bi atete UO I orare oi ih Ped of Ped td WA PCL tthe eae el rs Ce cor bey ht 7 bd 4°,*,° _* “E+ 4* row" cecereté a title ++ id td kya me fedd wee hl Fa a famous yew which drew some lines from Words- worth: ‘* Which to this day stands singly, in the midst Of its own darkness, as it stood of yore ; Of vast circumference and gloom profound This solitary Tree !—a living thing Produced too slowly ever to decay ; Of form and aspect too magnificent To be destroyed.” ee eee ads aan " eit wert rc hte ce" ; A Pt Ge oe! Db hehotoeee seven Pea ie bese ee ae ed Pol og bP a bid br td be ri ete hd bee ho, - bd Ser hy | in “oy Ce Teter es J. ee a of ah ete eT Pestee neti hAAL a aed hs From rock-climbers and mountain-lovers Lorton ai tm | a ar ae obtains a pilgrimage now and then. Here lived the John Wilson Robinson, practically the first 86 A a) »* * ‘ere seared amespsbelefejetes }4eteTht UOC HWA. wt ae bk biel 4 bh Py aa 7. Loe | Per be tt ot te ea Gee a eee ry bd eee eaeae ++ breserd gti? [orettorertatrertiricit LL te Fr ra Seo Pe ee 2 ts Rivne kaa aT UL} : ‘ ie, sé a >| ae Pa gn& TLoweswater local enthusiast who systematically explored the crags of Pillar, Gable, and Scafell. George Seatree of Penrith and the brothers Westmorland of the same time were also pioneers. Mr. Seatree, how- ever, went to America for some years, then settled on Merseyside. ‘The Westmorlands explored less and less with the years, but John Wilson Robin- son threw in his lot with any and every daring worker who came to Wasdale, Buttermere, or Borrowdale. Haskett-Smith, Slingsby, Owen Glynne Jones owed much of their success to Robinson’s wonderful local knowledge. With every mile south the vale of Lorton becomes more striking. Great fells now raise riven ridges and buttresses in front; there 1s a wonderful gateway which 1s the trough of two lakes; there are sweeping moors, as delightful in their way as the rocky mountains. Beyond Scale Hill Hotel there is a glorious drive up the shore of Crummock Water. On both sides the fells fall steeply, and the road is a mere shelf between rock and water. At the sharper and more picturesque corners it is well to be cautious: a car may sweep round and trap the unwary. Crummock is a deep trough of water. Its eastern shore has several short and interesting 87 ee ee ee ee ee ee ee ee oe ee oe ee OE oe a all ddd Pe hgh, Paglia er re << ne sa ae cep le Bit tt es 2 oe | ret AAS . Oi Ae os rye | Ps ort Ast IU | atl . et Pas S00 a 2 bees ‘ 7 i acae a. mt J is btatigieindsbes agape Mass —~ A oo — - — a ‘ bebe ae tishefebitid Ame ee eT ITy. IT ere fet Maret eo rr th Pt Ue ba be rot te t$ 44° ja. h*atl atte ri wot MMMM N RenTT Ne Te eT Ineo SCS a wer ooUu0Cw ’ nat ee YAO AUC O Yee Vo & t. poet ot Prt Pes as, Caen tb i Ps en ; Taideetabedeeeinisbedsietsisecbie leit ined elay batieisiajethid “ thi i A ET ee: te nice OER a or ri *. ih sot -tasetet bd + ie athe 4 TOT 6 6 hb fle Marti. 7 6 VLA OL ne ei 3 en * eth, Uildicpaieslite ecistiele bis REAR HARI tiers tomer Terr og NEN TTE eae et rs ibs "i aan he + 5 ’ . - ‘a. RMP OrIeR FOTN AMICI Eero COS ay SUR CC rere ‘ t Se eR ™ ee ds ’ . * J ; # AE | EMT Ld LF eet— ae a —— *) ; nr ' ‘ A 7] + 4 St MS of ’ . et * A W #,o)8 "0 6 6:4" fe . a) wi eS ‘ 7 ‘ ‘ ri A A ore 2pm nt y tutetgeye lst Petete* ra La OL twee oe 2 on by HR ICE: ~ Oe i Pe be ee ert | od od hd a r ee eh TT Oa | ee ; ee ae * & i ror ba et 3d hat ek be Son : is os bah Jt ie ee . 4 ‘ a a rl =— — eT a7 : STTePE TION TENS fed toteda imi ef -j> ore pe tegre pete 7 ee 4 Ft weed We Oy of ye et 8 oe é"§'4-3 3 + + a a7 a ee gtart*t* by 4-9 | Ayihine co Peete ee Phe , Pot et St ot Or tT or Oe Ee > . oJ » id ed ee * be Ga te be 4 4 + “ *4 | > F ‘ Ps Se aa ee Le bt OF be os ‘ites si Pe ae a*,*,* * a Perot: DOERR ee ere Te sentnbolal OU Re - LYURRS pee rh ny he ge a) A. * et A ‘ . . Md od na eg be | sie ¢ bg 4 +, it a a a « . a oe be oe bd be Oe te ey ts APA 7 ‘ 4 * 7 bd ‘ * sd UO } eet ¢*e Jo ee eT bathe Par rt bie ba LA CC or oe bf bet . ed beer othr LC vr an AU H ‘ . yh eet A, “ee ecea. 4 “1a ees Se a oe ae rae eee tt te oe ee ete be le Geet oe PT a Mee. oor oo ot bee bf Wee he d AGN * - a ee re ee ae rs Pas Bb ae © baie p a hs” in c Pred be bre Ore, o.* eet a! s 7 tO ee et ae | ‘ J sara eae ne yterrseyts ra 47a" a ri wh “19 a * . s Pee LSPS Le ae ee he ** as tt ou ie wa At oe ee aus os A ON pet Piette bos 7 Aas - a * eee et ee ee we) oe Oe ee eer er or a br we tee + * $58 & S #,* 4 + rs ar re AT oro ‘eM e re f Ped *e & > & + Crummock Water, Buttermere, dales. ‘The west is the great mass of Mellbreak. The lake is really beautiful ; if it lacks the savage- ness of Westwater it excels Derwentwater in bold- ness and distinction. The Keswick lake, however, has a deeper background of hills and the glory of islands. Those of Crummock are mere rock patches just off the Scale shore. At the little hamlet called “The Park,” under Mellbreak, the residents take the time from Noon Point, a crag to the left of Friar’s Ghyll on the north side of the mountain, This point is due south, and so at midday the sun stands over it and marks noon for the few cottages and farms. At the head of Crummock, beyond Grassmoor, there is, on the left, a great gap in the mountain range. ‘This takes the road over Newlands Hause toward Keswick. In front is a rock ridge on which Buttermere’s little church is built. In the old times, when Robert Walker was curate here, the emoluments were not more than £1 a year in cash, but he was better off than the curate of Wythop, who laboured six years for such a sum. Robert Walker’s “‘ extras” were a harden sark (a coarse shirt) ; a goose grass (right of putting a goose on the common) ; a darrack of peat (a day’s work of peat); a whittle gate (the right of victuals at the 88 SS oe ee& Loweswater parishioner’s house). ‘The Fish Inn at Buttermere was the scene of an almost forgotten story. In the year 1802 John Hatfield, who claimed to be related to the Earl of Hopetoun, arrived at Keswick in good style, and proceeded to give and take lavish hospitality. In the course of a merry trip he reached the Fish Inn at Buttermere and fell in love with Mary, the innkeeper’s handsome daughter. In a short time he won consent to marriage, and the rites were regularly carried out. A few months later, however, John was arrested on a charge of forgery (using a peer’s name to “frank” letters for free transit by post), and eventually hanged at Carlisle. ‘The man was a pitiful bigamist, and a lurker from the justice demanded by many creditors. A century or so ago the Lake Country was still sufficiently remote to bea sanctuary from the world. Mary of Butter- mere soon married again, this time toa man of her own yeoman class, and she died at an advanced age at Caldbeck, in “ John Peel’s Country,” beyond Blencathra. Buttermere is divided from Crummock by a low-lying neck of land which in great floods 1s under water. It is a smaller but more finely- placed lake, and usually is given precedence in the 89 ee ee — Sm ed > 6 Sed + — a le Pad ee 7; 4 A Phd LICH We Gel ir woe J in +o: ¢ #16 ty ti Fe Fes ot ae | ‘ ae) a be bed Oe ideo alee, : ft Os LUCE NRT bo Oo . * aa rhe bru *\)* 1 OF + CR ere SOT eee by TOrbtoemeree ete ’ ae ae , , Le * Lar ee: ‘ pt-ttorletefeininigetisclpdulrdet cal giedebivieeatiny ** a6 bea’, . ** J yA i ‘ at ize Or *\* ee Ma 1 + se ay tt eae SPOT Ot . potopatlbie leit bukecedindate Lb ebicieleperdedabet- Cd eh Pu ey rai Pe ee a Lie a wort: by 62 SFC Pet :? * Haine TUtA ne yt be te 4° oe oe rotate, s ofr th war ere pL PSS ey robe pet! **¢ : { MTOR teem TORT E MI CSO he Ob te 4 bie, %e*, ed eh to Perea Poa ry ERSTE ACEN oo mee — llama —_ “ eet at Tht te et Sr Sr be Sets or ti cree. a ‘ P «47 4.4.44 41° a er PS s+ ToT ie URC TT Onin arte! 7 i A “+ ¢ 1 e¢ ENTS te eles pee hel bY SPE NoPE AS eR ORIENT CIR y. iad rr ; ot Pe vee 5 ain ro a ent bre ae se iesbca*.@ 6 4* * Pt od GF we bs * #8 te 4 a +» b i a + hale * * © #1454 .4 Ftd tea be ae) ede of 7 he | aT he oe hd Oe Ve | M4 Poe a APO Pd tag + * 4% ry * 6 et rd bs nf ee ee ioe) oe: ® *¢ Charts teal a gt gee ela Ne AAO od bd Br RPE Pe bre bee et St tt Wh OE ‘ he MGM bf od aa Pad Go Me oe ot a ee a be Gs oe k*h).% 616.6 8 er ee Oe Ce ty at beth Pe bt ed Sot wide + OE satarl yoy iene. es 6 CU son $14, 01> 954.6 rs © rm, ee he bd a sok * Bes dirs bert PEt he i bd | be ot volt be i om Cotto fereere ri to +4 of LL ot OC Ot oc. ee oe fee ee tae SET | a Vt As of hy hohe | ‘ i re we a 4 epee rrereerrerrrrrrs ‘10,0 0 6? @ oie 4 ohini ey Pd § eta : oda de ore PLA AL tees Se 2G? ihe FS ee AT Cl nhl bite wt 7 a) rs Ae PW AR RIT i 10) 4 ©. 6 6° 6 6,0,.46.4 FS i | hah, Poi tg +6, ee 4 a ho oDpaA Ae ws feu ‘on indi elite Le ee eet ce | * a o of rhe hd ty a — eit oe PIGS #y4 ts hee rk} ‘aes? es * £46 4 ¢ ee kt bd) ee) ee * TS eee Pd Na ed ad Ls Men ee ’ i! oa 6,454, 4,4 * * . e sey - ry a os wu Lad es er aes > & +54 4,4 & ,* bd —er 7 imzezete TTI eT Tint , PUT UD rt oe bts we. ete hs oA 7 ca Sais rary PT. : PU Ua to ae, 5 rarer es ot WO Ped ee eo eee Crummock Water, Buttermere, list of favourites. There is a certain amount of timber clothing the lower slopes of soaring peaks. Sour Milk Ghyll is just one of the many pic- turesque cascades which after wet weather roar and dance down the ridges of the Lake Country. The new mansion at Hassness is an ideal place. In one or two rooms semicircular windows com- mand the most glorious views up and down the lake. The house is situated on the shore, not near the road like its predecessor—a matter of retired comfort in these days of roaring motor traffic. One prefers to forget that the old mansion at Hassness suffered for years as an inebriate’s home. ‘The small house of Professor A. C. Pigou, at the head of the lake, is very charming with its rock garden, showing the beautiful alpine plants of the high fells and watersides. We in the Lake Country forget that we have many types of flowers, relics of the colder periods of the world’s long history. They are little seen by the casual wanderer—unless some enterprising florist (or learned gentleman) collects them and shows them in mass. The head of Buttermere baffles description. It isamighty scoop beneath rugged cliffs and bracken- covered ridges. Fleetwith and Haystacks are but 90Yee & Toweswater two of the wilder hills. There is a fine mountain track through Scarf Gap into Ennerdale, and this joins on to the Black Sail Pass for Wasdale. ‘The finer route, however—but only for the tougher sort of rambler—goes direct up the valley floor behind Gatesgarth, and through Warnscale to Green Gable, from which point it is easy to drop to Stye Head Tarn, or to march over Great Gable, and descend, face outwards, toward the best possible view of Wasitwater. The road past the Honister quarries is an abomination. It is used by the coaches every day in summer, and the upper steeps represent a scree of rather vile, dusty, and wheel-ground frag- ments. If one is compelled to make for Borrow- dale on foot without loss of time a mile of infernal rubbish must be conquered. Otherwise it is better to go in any other direction. The front of Honister Crag, however, seen through mist and rain, takes on some majesty. This is lost the moment the air blows clear and the slate débris and workings are disclosed. There is little to add, much to suppress, about Honister Pass. ‘The quarrymen do not hang on frail ropes over the cliffs and sing, as they did in the days of Words- oI . — “MRE ee a a co or 5 “ ae —e “ a * > — arpa . 3 _— as oa » 4. '9 at i = ~s 'y ; hee het PO ae BRR CER Soe TCO Nae ae | hehe ba ti . he F fare ater eer ese Mest scat ase a = oe RRR PET SITY Ee om ~ =~ sk a a ESE tae . ieraty ra " at PeSTaPe Ie POT rT a Te ‘ta rs] 7. 4 ; Ae - OTe Mey: or a ee eee 9 8 b,*: 44° he Pe eet mata sta cece is FFP IS * a OO OU rit Sf ara oe bute 8 br oC Ot set Of TE PR It Oe It bt Gree ee ha ett ar br wertremteriretn rattstoce MOOI tLe erect So TL 5 i: igs F's 7 an) 4 bh pl | CJ Fog a 7 . * PERRIER RRR 7 ac Steere? HOM ZUR CMT MTree oP eet ale bo 1+ De ee PEL SSA hak oe OF oe 5 SETS Be Yt Or ek a Porte ot he eh oes me ee eee a a Pr | & i 7 co hd hake Fe eee ee LS opefaielt inte inlahasliatatieieeststsionts? rot s eo +a)peaagerer a Ph 4 eee iat . a te. if ae *4 ; 4 ame ieee et a Lia Cr sept vin vd as J Ph OM Soe Oey hae es. a a oe oe oe ro ot eae Pe 7 ae Ps + «* aos oa ee wh Le a Fi PU) (St ee be bee OP Poe be ee Pi eh epee bt +4 a eet Pag 8 rs Pg | +4 a.) a eS e+ a + ot, ih + Pa +e eee A Mg a fe, oO, FF AA Mr te | Ott wt bet ae | ft J + Ps a bd A ofereteorersi4tt-peteteti-tyt tet Uletatytetet ote reg NY a 7 as HW Sos tid Sac RR at TN MUR ALR of ‘ 5 os ol a Oe My Pee be Oe be EE Se bee of oeed w eet tt oe oe, Pat oe hes are Page P * ae oie b tb aig es ee Po oF ed Tet RE oe oy 4? be | Pie APs n * * p ig rs ogres ‘ bd ed | ha | n eee Te" areata ial i ot 2. a ee! . oe) r A TO oe ie oe Od ek tek bt el ae a,b eee. 6 ee a J eo fee i a a ef Wl hd te te ee ee ROO OOM rhea Sada bebaba Sa Depend br pee SL ies GF be a Ps c + 4 * . ‘ + + OCU ENC be bes ac Ped Std Soto eS py ba ya beh te \ i+ & i) oe Bt et SU ees | io Ce | ee oe ee te ee eat EE ee *_* — 7 ——— ee " . Pty * taba 7 ves a ++ ry Pee oe mn BOT Pert utr ert ItUe : a ee i he 7 ThTNejay Ren a, * fh | : : fiat ae ed ees ' ee TT ! m Te ed | s+ . a a ee " _ ad ad an 2 a ' re os =,* ta 6 * * PC ores be . nt ta 7 4 ic rt rPODOd is fh Ore Crummock Water, Buttermere, worth. All the workings are inside tunnels ; only the broken rubbish is tipped down the hillside. he whole scree represents a fair idea of Creation Morning and its squalor before Order was called out of Chaos. The best procedure for the motorist is to return down the long dale, past the excellent hotels at Buttermere, and away west from Scale Hill at the foot of Crummock Water to the last lake of the series Loweswater. ‘his is probably the least seen of all our lakes. It is not visible from most of the fells, for it lies close within the shadow of Carling Knotts. ‘The lake has another curious feature—unlike every other of our great meres, its boldest scenery is at the outlet. ‘The north side is comparatively low and tame, giving access to the Derwent Plain over an almost invisible ridge. One feels sometimes that Nature has made a mis- take here; a few yards deeper water and there would have been a stream direct to the Derwent instead of the bickering Cocker down in Lorton Vale. Loweswater is a secluded village. It has a dis- tinctly old-world touch, an aroma of time long past. ‘There is a road up Fangs Brow, and past Lamplugh to Ennerdale Water, with some rather 92ee ee ee ee ee ee ee ee et ol al ae ee ie ee ee ee — Se eee ee eee hei reper | ret f ee & rn i¢ Ma eC Laat i tee hee EN ,* * 44 tt * lehtdripe ih cy Y ae : Saale * ree ee & Toweswater fierce pitches and nasty corners. It 1s easler to go further afield and so secure a better road, though it passes through the mining and iron-working parishes of Cumberland. a ail amsiiaspen n POC * am Pe | e Py '* yt far Ot ‘ a rar * oe Set Ee ; , Bi 7 oat... con tle 4 A tebettiny se, ee el = ca * — * + ri eee + + then pense — : ‘yA, 7 . ae nd * a * Chee ‘ bat ied ak ct) Lh J es J rf 0; sie A SOF ‘ oo a | anaes te i me a J . | peeiel-ft4 ry RP Lr ee et a repeet es i J aren * inked ltst te em Toles i +h “ITSP, *et @e , ae J | Mh «* c rer at) P 5 PFC ¢ 4* 4 + 4 7 -* a) ek as a. ee | Sarees Bs a re 4+ @& « @ #* Peet)! reap eee MMIC et Ter *: 4 * ee ; e+ * 4 et Pe PT. het sore * + Bit + C7 meet tits . a Lhd Or 3 for us be Oe ore Fete Sy tia bee ] etnias eae cor | ++ tt) eh ON LYEPS) Peed | re ttt a P tt ae er ag Pid bl bd ne tel of Ter Get tte er are - + rr at stiejeigbees a. pe etal’ CHC 93 _ 6 o.6\6 64,44 *.*,7 ‘were a aT ae ok , Sat . ) H ‘ > a? _ tn gee oe oe * La + See * * + . Yer LF sk me *ry * a rare ’ .Jt. ed | OG) KARO ote Ll UCEt wy e | ae " r ‘ oh 0d MC Sd a ht woe bracts Wot LER hey as wf he be | 4". 7 sea ete ad _ Ca * ‘ tee bot oer Pat bf ‘oe + we) +s ae Ted ROO SE | POC is +14 §*, bef a*,*} . w J * ‘< Pi la fa wr ‘ bd a mY rs et ltt eh 4 oi+¢ | OD DUNiad te cr ux Naot ana Better a ye i. Tee a “yh atatyta beets” ie eg ee4 a +o it 6 # ** A a e.¢ sees ‘* * e+ ee a eupetrefopetesia! ytoteterpetete Pi ey >t er bg bel i* bs a a7, wPat.ts ee a bt 4 rh ed i! hehe: + Pg * 81% @ 6.2 FS + eto te wie ae Pid ed ee 4, Series rs yA Pres ra eerer eA we asd Pete eee oe be TL Abo i be al A Pet ot Tt bead of ree Oe TC Cl coe See od a et a ‘ 7) aes + 4 r a. we 73 Wht > arbi beer’ a | kgs § Py we ete ela A * *? a. > ss oa et rl A é 4° foe rt ry ee bd eee ee * * ¢ 6 4 & 4 Srterrrer Tire eTe he ta bee be bre or a 1 wit) sé os eV elas + a: 0+6,4,4, 6% .*, 4 + ® Le Be ee a ee U Lr) ee . RUT LUO AAA TR AP VOOR AAAS Ae eel be ha | yrfarrnpe tated Spied tie te hh bd ed | Pr ta 2 Ut ee be wists La Aa oe mr CST beh Pt et bt WF bf Or oe ae eye et yu te bf Oh oe te Ot Oe Fes SE ITH om atl FY : x oe om ee ee ed . a CHAPTER VI ENNERDALE, WASTWATER, & THE WESTERN DALES HE next sector of the Lake Country is probably least known to ordinary tourists. It is true that rock-mountaineers crowd to Was- dale, that a few have discovered the Anglers’ Inn and sport at Ennerdale, that Eskdale has a holiday hostel. ‘Together these represent a mere trifle compared with the interest taken in Winder- mere, Derwentwater, Ullswater, and Coniston. Remoteness is the chief factor in this lack of appreciation. By rail there is a long and devious journey from either south or north ; by road there is the same difficulty, added to which one sees, in the district round Egremont, rather too much iron ore in the brooks, and the villages are un- pleasant. From Loweswater on the north there is road route up Fangs Brow to Ennerdale through Lam- plugh and Kirkland. The first miles are pretty stiff; then comes a run across the uplands. Ever the view is toward the Solway; to the east and south the mountains are hidden by mere swellings 94 i a aEnnerdale & the Western Dales of sheep walk. There are peaks in this sector, but as they do not rise to 2,500 feet and have no particular beauty, they are not visited by walking folk. Even among enthusiasts it is rare to find one who has climbed Blake Fells. They stand out next the Cumberland Plain. Having done the walk, I assure the world that it is not worth while. There are scores of finer fells within reach of the Ennerdale road. ‘To wander over Blake Fells is to waste a day which might be profitable else- where. The only guide-book writer who ever described Blake Fells was Henry Irwin Jenkinson, whose “ Pedestrian Guide ” has not been reprinted for a generation. As one passes Lamplugh the country becomes dirty and dismal. Every bank and stream is red with iron ore. ‘There may be wealth in the mines for capital and labour; there is no pleasure out- side the workings for them or for anybody else. Cumberland has little joy in the cottages and villages along this road. It is far better to reach Ennerdale on foot direct from Buttermere by Floutern Tarn. The path passes close to Scale Force and is easy, though it may be wet and awkward in mist and rain. The best approach of 95 a ne 4 ree OCC ae - o a ® e 4 Ys - Let, = ad Yes ; ; ¥ Pt a 23% 2 We be =f ee rt heh, oe YP : o4*,*h oTi*heatate Oi atetetslatitariertetiseth areisistelarsechit titre ster’, . TOM br ae Porat PP OC tek fT eh PETC? or ee 4, $16 pee bidlas o:*.4)@i «insti. oe +4 : an ei ‘ i FA EE a Pek ele he ie Leek Q : Foes ene cern COTO COS Se au pa Onn Ute eree UOC n Les Saray = a ee ee ee ee i = * 4 es od et 4 * 2 a oe ef Se Lor * #\* bs 4 Pot Th rr ett a pg A ic Pi $ Ssibinindsscadad pied alg caleteten ‘ a wiefetatistetedt.t Pa STP ts Fos ’ ot eat rw Cir eee So eee Ih PCN eter Pre Mere st a a4* bir ++ a 4 Peres * fod | S$ ol4 «@ a : or i Yt ty phy * Cem Feet] 4s oe OR BI Doe tea e Me SCoe Se a Peret er rar | at vt ot a ADOHOO ry OU ae Pots FA fod bere Soe et Peete ae et | Reeser esti ereses Me rn Aree rare $4 A beerseem ttt)ee Secale iad : 2k SAS ee ren ; nS i " yt a t ha FS . PP te ‘ “ha es @ . * be GPa ee ed he *+* ** ae le ht Vite & * a4 ae Ch Ste ee Pe ee PC bie Wee ee of COST wd be be Gok OG A Lt ed Wt be ae Ps oe ae . a * + + ‘ 5 Pi Pos beet ee tot " Re HM aa Pm ht Pare M este ee br RAFU OU UCN OUDT iar! Wt. + o * “itt is rig | * 4 Ca a eit + ’ * bs Py ots a ae 6 the" eet ee. oy a) wil. yoo fs of tet ML eee gated Soe oe oad lj & * rset bah be Se Pat 4 oh i +* at ee ee ts be + a TU ly | TILE beh) Pht ye an ory" pa *+* ee : 4% 7 by es ee | x: tama Rie eae os p a ehy . 4 of be Ore ere ree yee verre rr ret cot been tae Pee CTT PPO Ly be mt bot We) adhe be ot tee 6 rte ML) ets Ot es 1 cs! ot . . 4 a Per yee te tt be be a A oe oe ee be +s phi ae 84 oh Fb. 4 4 gre 2s Meee a Ge wees ied erst * Tate eds opt iG@y ee se TepeTUsepOeer terete arte] sTeT eibide as Le eee oe ar tries tekst re eee ee . tate t oe Fe eo bay a a, rir ws tiene 47,9 4 +s rs A200 bd bp beraes bu Sibi Wine bend be be oa Syn pegs ound be odie 4 rf | ee te ee ee oe or Ny ‘ REN are tay 8 Ped Sr tet OF Sy 9 a &@ 66 44,4 / oe bad 4h eye 4 Pere a54,6 4 4 +, 4 #34 ee saree ered ae * Pach aath ‘ re ed oe A Ennerdale, Wastwater, & all is rather arduous. Come out of Buttermere by the south road, turn off at Gatesgarth Farm, and take the stony path up Scarf Gap towards Was- dale. Where this crosses the river in Ennerdale, turn to the right, down the dale. It is a weary- ing ramble to one not accustomed to fells. To others it is a pageant of delights. You get some of the best scenery in the Lake Country as you pass beneath the great cliff of Pillar Rock, which appears, as it really is, as merely the roughest part of the roughest mountain front we have (except Great Gable). Ennerdale’s only hospitality is at the Anglers’ Inn, on the shore of the lake. ‘There are possibly rooms at some farms, but the Government’s pro- gramme of afforestation may change the prospect. So far the result of purchases such as Ennerdale has been the banishment of tourist, climber, and tlockmaster. Ennerdale Lake is not a mighty affair. Its beauty is somewhat spoilt by a dam at the outlet and a presiding factory stalk. But, looking in the other direction, from the inn landing, there is one of the grandest mountain views in Britain. The crags of Pillar and Gable are well visible, and the slopes and combes are glorious. There is wonderful 96+ + + + e+ 8 eee oe wa ok oe Oe ON OE ee Pn Ne ie cpll aah adi aie pa + _--+ = Le) A Peo eo. Land Pea * eh ese a A OOo ir +.* #4 7 * : ee H prenst eer ; + 7 at es ~— J etitear bre h?, fanate tats hd baer dats rm Ro ohare MF ru ot Parte t b rie r i eee! +; * + ip oe ees ee et oh a. be MTC Cra * bf Ph " ’ novad . + eo Pu ry nd sete C7 }4%r . oo ae * Treo Src oat) Wn Se aoe) + ** 4 M4 Pe “+ c * pa HSE} ae ee ta D eee hd tats La Se errr e*@ 4! Se = +47 7 a F h * | ho eh as *4 +4 Per or) ot Sineiély : rf Ps eo eee a : 4 i+ * & 9 6% Rath ee hiepisie é A YU oT 4 ot an oF ATs *\*,? Tae at mC cree 7 rs lee Ses 0 A ah | a +,4.* 4 + ei¢) ean ee ee — + * + & 4 @.4 * +\2¢ *1+ J = ee » Pg - Pot et ot MICO Pee ree hee ee bd bi hl | eters oe * + 4 nese ee brats er Sl ak) * a. ae Pt tiene ‘a te oe ' #,7* 412.8 eae! u Tis eet te ee ae a - om 4? * a > re ees hd Gat Pua S oe a if Ps ns — yi ry Pe ee ee eee ee — a. os oe! Pot. NAPES NEEDLE, GREAT GABLE This rock problem requires real mountaineering skill and equipment. kigures show route. ‘| he top blo k LS supposed to be loose. Te. om +h | * Ta a eg - 9 He - 4 rs A ve a ++ pee ‘ nd re ‘ *-« * ° eC ay wl +wh + i* * iw + re + Bee a! fon be taco | Aes ms ‘6 é*,?.", toe 4? .*16_8 es ng SP; . , C3 a + * Wet ot a rm "4 8 ss #4 * at - sy*' Pt bay ¢ EL * + 4.4 + * ri & +4 1 it ot py beg FOU’ + ee ae oe Te e*b atatet ty Bt o Pht er tf i eft 6 6 Oi ree UR | eg 7 ‘es 6 ot tt of 4 wat Pig te reed Be ‘ bd bet | an bs 4 * ) aU i Pi eo Le J i * ae Oe ha + *4%° Sie re * 4 @ 46:4 _ oI oa. | * a - * a es : a * . 7 oe 4 a ee fr Sd e ‘ a J Po a a i a of oa ee 7 - ‘ * + +. 6 6 &) % ‘ crwe* 4 - a) a vet Le ae | e+e 6 5 4 eee a. ee a " Fae 5 Dee ae es ee oe " a) Fi +4 a +.ete Ps - CJ pire b 4 .e)e ba a. ae + ot . Li ia sa) ae | i i ibe Les wooly ey of tr a “ J iat her te ss ial Wit tbe eG s+ + 4 a+ an oe Po eS * re eee | aes a oe TATU Pl . At er ey | a * athe Western Dales colour, especially at sunset, when the great ridges are touched with gold and the shadows are wine- purple and blue. ‘The lake is much beloved of anglers. It must be confessed that sport with rod and line in our northern lakes and rivers is not perfect. It has never had the skilled attention given, say, to the Derbyshire Dove or Wye. There is brook-trouting in the upper becks, but the fish are tiny and somewhat easy in a flood. In fine weather the water is so clear that the thinnest gut looks like a cable, and throws a shadow on the floor of the pool. ‘There are still charin the lake, but they are rarely taken by visiting anglers. The road from Ennerdale to Wastwater climbs over Copeland Forest—a treeless expanse over which the red deer ranged about a century ago. There are good inns at Calder Bridge. The abbey by the Calder 1s a fine old ruin in a glen which merits exploration. I prefer to ignore roads wherever possible, but I cannot recommend the ridge route from Ennerdale Bridge to Wastwater. It is a maze of sheep tracks and parish fences, with some good views. After Calder Bridge the road traverses a shelf of country to Gosforth, where is the finest of pre- Norman crosses, then turns left to Wastwater. 97 G eh ot et a atlas 5 ee. oe Ot - es * a ae ont am = en es leer henna nll anna Sones —— tn a es eS : Sa a —— tl ti a eo ae = a — ae i? Pe PT rar yr / ar Sor rT wo Cat DE od br hoes bead LIC De teak ee teal tT wy ¢a’atie + Peale tie + @ ‘a [* biary em RIC er rtot Pore TCOtT RCS Noe Stara) ae a AAAS AO0D alee Ou hass Core of ea tarkeh estes, ole e1* “e.4cf PS +,* 0:6 656 bef et bs + ISA iy 4 aot ar 3 Ft : t Aes. t - UUAIE Fasthsspescpeisdeiotd ecbetete aches it dnieseg le bag Lh tieteladeriedad a a ae : rs = : ; ea eet oe rent pe re itt meta eb eber ory ed - “ite | * + Pei hi of beh ret a Tarot rte pS ony P| ie *'s "i N ‘ i i * ie WTR Pee ICTR eA TINT erie mere TUC TOC Ek Tk eT : r A enn | te it bao DT | og 40 es Faroe Ms «4, t eat Te tee Me ae a Phesosehes pees esesese ae Merrett) nad srl Tetadestbeetrcetgcee! pesees Poet Phy PAS +t a aaa! *,¢,4°,*,* 44,*;* POO Soe miso bs Wn Oo ETL be beet PT hhh eke J ae "7 Rr etice! bo thra) ‘oe fd Le 7 ry a i. ie - a Ny he 676 . Se al Ss ie Sate Or ar. 2a iH hana a STR Ra Co a ‘WU ea mt a | a 4 iin aye a ee ** + PY o a ‘ ee ee erst 6.6 47.4% ,¢ Lae ae he CPt a he Fs errr torr a Shite borat moo brulee FOTO ea we oe oe ht ha is eae Lae oe be be ee a ee * ROT ft i a r . eet bd at Pt St | aie ® ' ~ ‘ CJ + +e + s * ow *-« Ps a ee oe at oe hae | . et He Ce TT beh a +74 Pt Ce * * eat, - Py eC he 4 OF bet . Pd Ga et ot rs Pe er Gt , ites rm A * +, + weer et rm ” 4 Cy oat e? fed oat zy rk at SOIL | a Sra aL NN Saori ee me CI re a CHILL FOE * * Peery A + + ie BS . te re Re ot bee | ut yy of 7 a * APs ' 0168 § 6:0:4.0 4°34 74 e540 8 an2,0,6°h's 6 OC ett te 0,810.6. 6:0 016.6 618 014 010-6 ae + + * ++) Se Pad | 3 iid de ee ee ered ated. Oe We i ; ‘ et ee ee ee | Po ee a + | or oe ee | SOMO oe Ae a care at 1}: baie kas a hie e. 01410.6- ye oe ee *% *)*% ee eo ba a oe a LI IY OC we er ee he be be or oY + 2,* # a7 ee by OF Te Ee TL Le To ta arr Ss tei ad Wu a fe oo be Os oe eke rhea bet teil BAe bt Ri) cin hd bd bd Bh td be On On hn teed Do ORAS RO SSN RoE RGR ‘ +4 \4 4 * | RE et be hy | me ft ee ee Ennerdale, Wastwater, & here are hotels at Gosforth, and a big place, with golf-links, at Seascale, two or three miles away, on the coast. Between Gosforth and Wasdale Head are several small inns, that at Strands being of excellent repute. Beyond this there is no other accommodation up to Wasdale Head. These last miles by Wastwater are perfectly glorious. ‘The lake is in the picture all the way, hostel the track does not start Alpste at the foot. The great mass of Screes, rising to 2,000 feet, over- isis the deep blue plain, and is mirrored on its surface. ‘The whole aspect is curious, wild, im- pressive. In front is the great circle of mountains which becomes more impressive with every mile. Wastwater is altogether different from any other of our meres. ‘There is practically no meadow land; the Screes side is far more striking than Mellbreak on Crummock, or Place Fell on Ulls- water, for its rocks and cliffs go straight up from the lake's edge. Wastwater is our deepest lake. Its surface is 200 feet above the sea, and 217 acres of its floor are below sea-level. The trough, below 250 feet, is very regular, being a plain a mile long and almost a quarter of a mile wide, undulating into one gentle dip of 8 feet to the deepest soundings Qdthe Western Dales of 258 feet. Compared with this Windermere 1s 130 feet above the sea, with a maximum depth of 219 feet. A strip about a third of a mile wide and 3 miles long is below sea-level. The deepest trough curves off Wray Crag, and is 1 mile long and } mile wide, with a floor at 200 feet. Coniston is the only other lake which is deeper than sea- level. Its surface is 143 feet above, and the maximum sounding is 184 feet. If this lake were reduced to sea-level it would present two pools, the larger 14 miles long and } mile wide, with 42 feet of maximum depth. The other would be 9 feet deep, 3 mile long, and 200 yards wide. The view in front shows Yewbarrow at its finest —a narrow, steep ridge well marked with broken rocks; next is the pyramid of Kirk Fell; then comes Great Gable, most wonderful in shape of all British hills. Great End is hardly visible behind Lingmell, which, from half-way down Wastwater, is a really nice peak. Scafell Pike, in its recess of Hollowstones, begins to remind one slightly of Snowdon as seen from the Capel Curig road. As one comes closer the great cliff of Scafell, dropping “00 feet to a fold in the hills, shows its strength. As you pass the corner of Yewbarrow, Wasdale Head appears as a mere green nook among the, 99 i ee ee ee —_ ce = te aie ee - * + ~s =a : a nia eo on lt acai a) er as s eee ia at ee ital * a ——at o a a ee = meen eR 7 * +, es Poth ar aeh rote NE pialeietilebetey ere Ib . a UT tO ee r | ae i*.¢ Sed at fy “t! et a Wo POGUE . ae Storie. a ats at OO TN et ees ary — +a at Pera teeas = * S a - red CoP Seaport crt i Ge uraats Gt or oc renee itor tea POF eM PIC hr bra SEIT 4 2 eh : ITCH RMAC t Lan rer Store: ya tet re . Sete hs e+ 454 *¢. 4" a ha oioec sre : Cr te . ii Ct varersrece sees ie, sisisidddgsistsmeanins OU aren reese oieeas * = 7 + rar Ps = peberene sere, eet etree Gr bes torsrer scm i; 5 ‘ rer th tt OC WE TT Wer te bode te et wrahebihebeitivtertepobul dlelelecditigadadet- , Perea ee ee a Ae +7 es ba Ge Ge yee Sieh artes. yA Ry Pre Meret re ees. ee Rett ieee tret: MURR ee ; A PL CSL A POPC etree ocor ef Ot Beal byt or Perel PLPu ot aT Mt SOT be RM MR TERIOR ICA CIT Numer nO Sc Cero ere Orr r ‘ LF si:a Ae . 4 rs . oF beh Ce be ae Re Oe oe Ok ED *-* rt ‘ "I Pt os Ps a oT. ee - s A yi Od Ad wb OLS bf ed i bd ty LO A3t A Ag ya we | VAP IOOG at FPO Ces cat Saat ye eM ROOT OO Ort my Cet 7 mpeyereeegt he ag Lb SENT a * oe at ert | bid el + ae 7 Py Aa ; me rt eye rf - + *] a bd " " . ld bd | Me ‘* ae a oe) : Saad wet bl bh a a ee iyhe ved Uy (bet bd : Fab Hed eh E og ba Pt toe Oe | aU Tt ante eke or es Poet ee PCL FOU et " a td Oe rs a eee es * 4 a 7 + Y . ws Pei od bt § RT WOT IA Or fe Sa ba ‘ PN vee ? a **e & & * * & * ed et ed od LA ry A ert Pots bad be ht be cs b Huth A o1%,2)° Ps of @ a ee if a 3d 7a J St SCN eh A ety 44.4 ~e" Terrie qerrorrernstt 4+ * * Per oer ot Ca - ae AM AV s i &le 4 & ei oe et Pa * bay *Pe bia eee be Fel tot a et tee le Se Ft rf MT ie eae oe eee or moma te eee ay Ry ater grates o re abaocasetee nd Meh Wr the ore pretty ** Laee -4 + 6 = oy Pi. tr ‘ww L yan Litas bs be teed os 10+ 6:6,6¢ 6 64" at, a ed ft ‘ ea oe oe | oe *e ae et we % . ee Se ,* * Per ee ee o,4 +14, ed xy eh dee et eS 4' *\* * o* a.@ Ot PEC tt ee a ar rr | be kd ca a be | oe Bye AORN eid Wehr a : rs as he Teo o ee & + ‘ sie} eer) ae re ee “4 id or or os ‘ bg t* ; ‘i oe th ’ - , “or 4" 4 " § bd o 77 oe”. 7 oo ve p - . rn ot Ph : , “ete 8 : ee * Ennerdale, Wastwater, & sterile hills ; from its level fields stretch out arms like Mosedale, or riven ghylls like the one between Gable and Kirk Fell. Everywhere rise steep and shapely peaks, with one easy walk only—to Burnmoor ‘Tarn and over the bogs and heather to Eskdale. Wasdale Head is a haunt of mountaineers. It has one licensed house, a ‘‘ temperance,” two farms, a vicarage, and maybe a couple of cottages. At Easter and New Year every inch of room may be taken by rock and snow climbers. At other seasons there is also competition for accommoda- tion. One difficulty must be mentioned about Wasdale Head. It applies to other resorts with more or less force. From Seascale and the coast motor chars-a-banc now bring up crowds “ for the day.” When the weather is fine there is no trouble When they return to afternoon tea the last party the climbers merely take to the hills. has already retired. In wet weather one must keep out of the way of wet and sometimes rather dolorous day visitors. No one wishes to drive them into the rain; so equipped in waterproof the climber goes out for his scramble. Often he has abundant reward: above the first layer of clouds there may be sunshine—and miles of delect- 100tn Re GP Nt pene ene ‘ o ‘ + My . >a * et Mid > + + 7 tie bie AT # ec iti*+ ee : eyeeae ipa ae a * es : * a vita ao S ating 7 J echt pees} td a +4 rr Tt or Md 7 ‘+ a i 1 2% ie ae exert on | P vt tet ors \* A ry erérae + i is er ed 7 amet * ois; art ei ee r Te aes a Lea) oo : > Hele ete 7 - et Jr eee ts maroritrss ropes *\¢ yr | ee 7 a. oe; * o rf hal G] : eeavecitititie tle: eet) eure C7 7 ty ti Palas ad +e eer ee + * + eae) * 4/4 rerun site **¢ \ Shs Lae cee te erdecine ieueata] at oe a. rit mts A aye } e 47,°1%,% * ps 4 o- 9, °1 5 és" e 4.4.4) 8 -+ hee 28 ba Ot Ud bd Bh a. k. 7 Pr by od Ee + ro a. 2 ae ‘ rt M4 Tere Ts] J P74 sea" bf Cd aad ny Ps rod iw a. ad er =e Pat 2a + a oe tt Cana! Ld rs oe. Cn - sete eA) rere a eg | o zs - + eur 4 . ~ iad H oe WES ery | eee te 4s 7 > et *r Cdrn a oes’ ee | ee ‘ vt gy | ae) a A * ito ‘it. . > Lae | i LIAS te hy As > \ a erases bt et be be PD ST OrCe ot ++ a “ co ‘To 4 +* s* yeeteterr “eee id pce a or tt wf be hg n 7 y ha * *- 7 a J Chele CIN Y sae - = r ear’ — ie | ~ a Ae ae 6“ 4 rs e - Se iad Ps — Pe od " + p — a 3 aVL WAOO eh NX bh ad | a ee + Pot) oa ie ad UU ' MUICR PU 7 Yb ‘a rh! Lae bad De be is me uN ot s+ be ote by by a. ee Le ee | a . +4 a | a ee in i os idles ae >. * a. | (ee . — *t 7 Sa aahs bl ariel ** oo 654.4 64" Fie be bt he ee ATS aa ads a ae Me SER DCO wre CN Oe Rea 4+) 4414 -% @ iat ‘a PESO Vy + 4,006,654 4;% #4) 4 Meese raekee a + “i Be | + tie* see « 7 A h 4 .the Western Dales able peaks visible as islets in a white mist- ocean. There is no sense in describing walks round Wasdale Head: you must walk when you are there to Greta Force, to Piers Ghyll, into Hol- lowstones on the way to Mickledore Ridge, up the Stye Head path, through Mosedale to Black Sail. Walking is the only possible form of travel. The usual way over to Eskdale passes the head of the lake and Wasdale Head Hall, up a cart track for Burnmoor. ‘The pass is at the bottom of a wonderful sweep of mountain—the quieter shoulder of Scafell facing the smooth grass of Ill- gill Head on the other side. In front there is a vision of rocky walls beyond Eskdale. The miles are, however, on the big scale, and the path rough. There is Burnmoor ‘Tarn part way across, and a path down its side leads to Mitredale, one of the quietest nooks in Cumberland. The descent from the moor to Eskdale can be varied. ‘There are a dozen tracks, but the one I like best comes straight past some waterfalls to Boot, the meagre capital of the dale. Perchance, having seen the way over Burnmoor, we may return to Wastwater for an alternative route. Beyond the foot of the lake the road IOI ‘-* a a er * y a es ie i + ar yo] RA ete, 5 iia peices a te ss et * rae 4 fl — a cm a ware ae A ye bt be FE TL ‘ ch ek ie * tl bree: he oy ety S I “Ht ‘ ? Mee tease - - ae ~~ onl ee 5 oe *#* ate Ps o#i* & @ 4 * ¢.* s om To dan ——— (5 cs = “ a ee a 4 OP Fert AC bearer areas ot i ost d ele Repceet een Rate reheat oe | wy ity Tae * + ‘ 4A ha SITS TTT SSRIS ER NNT TD MTT OLIL TO fo et betta era at ror i? em Pepe epererepey tr ao Sarat To er Le ee Ca. | r J Mate ee | aT 4 a That be tek, ; OCHS oe Oe 019101050 O19 * PebrstrInats So Stan ay ioatevet tee See A - a a . Tepe itprneens ac) Perer Sr ake ae ie? * east anes ek ee tte Streets oy Ht Pe Hey ‘hort peer ONteemre Mutt Sree CROC + 4 + tetas ere) ae te ae.6 a7 Sree * WR AreazyuOoCSCUr Peat . Se Seas oe .s 7%, cee are Port *16 6.0 01% + eee tte Ta elece at MPO Te eT A Prt, + é:% vv eee ert: eat tbs eM peerteme pore se rcne ene SCONE a CE ES ACHES STACI) : + A TS NE + * & an a . SOS Soon PPD wh St ee es rs ii ai tli i i i a a — — ” a * * ’ y , = * +PC a a bel be Poe) a » 4* » * OTe . AA hte a - Wh POCO oes oa rae : aoa oe — : ie US ft pe, 6 6".°*s of re bes Pe ut wes * te eC UT : Ho a) Pa Theat OUR T ‘ 7 “i SPST eor oe WA etn rt a FP AG oT. a bP ie.6 4)0.6 6 84", ee > ee " at Pere te eal AIG 44 “4 4 a ra » * ht ok ok ae he ar Ol ek ot re eens oe md * rs +e el bre 7 A iri na ri 7a ar 4 iWRoOr i’ he | SS or oe Pe Fe | Peg’ ‘ ee et Soe be eee eke al | ae be Pt, eh et} tba be St 4 4 tty AO ‘ A sta SOL POC fasts , Pat ‘ bd eee ee ee a LJ * e.4,% Te. rit by be be et beash ok be OE Tee | Pe we be t LUI Pl Fit a. s 4 rs rs J ats Fee | 4B ey ee OOO Gr teeters es et Saie 4 6 eprebstetebininte)-jeretenteres ° J od ed ae wrod Waa Pe was eet Sie + " ra ‘a. eet “hie OT MUG ha he be bd or Pd tt. * * 4+ | eg 4+ 4) ta * Mt Oy ot oe Paty brite or OC - Het he ®s = oe “(117 evry Aigehiiaty tet * o* ied se be + or ie . 5S ON ree Yt a ee i“a* ee " . i _— > ii role Ps ob, " Fae od A ‘ '* +s a ‘ erat eee Att ofa Pa A a i " a. oe 7 we ; 4 ; or a roe or te Lt te Lee oe a *-* La rf OI At wth fee ead re Ennerdale, Wastwater, & follows the Irt to Santon Bridge, a hamlet with some repute among fishers for sea-trout, and to Holmrook and Drigg, where there are hotels. There is still another excellent place at Raven- glass by the estuary where Mite, Irt, and Esk forgather. Ravenglass was a Roman port; in Walls Castle there is relic of a Roman villa. The best views in this neighbourhood are from the ridge where the road skirts Muncaster Park. The outlook includes the Isle of Man, Walney Island off Barrow, St. Bees Head, and the hills of Galloway beyond. Luce Bay seems to cut off the Mull altogether until one is tempted to believe that the next land to the west is the Mourne Mountains in Ireland. The view from the terrace of Muncaster Castle is also famous. Some claim that it is the best we have, though it has neither lake nor tarn, nor have the hills the majesty of those seen from Friars Crag or Orrest Head. Even the dignity of a park does not lift the view in esteem. There is a finer outlook, toward Haweswater and the East Fells, from the grounds of Lowther Castle. At Ravenglass the folks have legend that the only good route up the Esk is by the private drive from the Castle. I am not sure that you need 102 ae ae ee eethe Western Dales venture on private property. If you use the Muncaster Lodge and drive you are trespassing at frst. But turn into the old road at Muncaster Vicarage, slant upward to the open fell, then to High Eskholme and to the drive, and you are on a right-of-way all the time until you reach the upper bridge over the Esk. Here your right-of- way goes left to Eskdale Green. This is the line of the old Roman road. Bothends of the Muncaster drive are admittedly private, but the right-of-way goes from Muncaster Church to Eskdale Green, and includes the centre miles of the drive. ‘The walk through Muncaster Park is certainly worth while, though it may not be the Lake Country at its best. ‘There is another road up Eskdale which starts beyond the Esk Bridge on the Whitehaven- Millom road, and wanders among the farms, but it is poor and broken. The road from Santon Bridge is steep and also poor. Eskdale is fairly well served by inns and board- ing-places. Itisa nook which will become better known. A light railway makes its entry over the dank of Muncaster Fell, and runs up the trough for two or three miles to Beckfoot. Here 1s one of the hostels of the Co-operative Holidays Association. 103 eee + 7 ——— in - SS el a — . ot eal ‘ —— +a i ‘ _ ° ar ld a OO — ed ee La) ere en, - ae ian ality * a ins ee _ “a a a ee a ee 4 calle i a wait erect Ramm ee Rh ——_— — ‘.*.* p *.* VOCE a atasN rey ar a. br i D Hee tpee st) M rt Pt . * oi * + 4, #8 6 ry Te Piet bs Ps s * titheints is : re Pony a cs i i FOG La, oe Tae Sur rr 4. * aren L Nin wot Hw mrt tee Wd U ela L Prot) Pah i. rtd Cot ey at Pe Sg : . Tt 3 be i at FS wie the tat ts * tialeteteniiiepdgesspdzpintedstcscelgigdebdeisdctbacresttisdebohaditidle TOTaAroc Petre PP SPLJUNE NN oe Ot Ye PC Lelab-ditioledejetiedel-f-t-p-fegef- Lrr LIST Pg" +? be Vat te rertet ear mh 7 We OT Pot be} iniatobeisitestedey tril inietegcn Ps Aeron tins Sy of ara *,* * 4 * * hie & * eet! ta eitheit ope Tatets a bbcisinisieists STITT Aer wut Kroon 2 PP Poe ot 4 * 4_@ *ie lh a bla” tr reer ti ot bt Ee te te Pos RRMA TA et sem CRC CMIC ieee FOOT tM er ot i: ehttete +a —- ’ “ ea Pe ee VTA ACASYUOC COUT OU w Wo: ‘+ o ©. | ot 4 — “| bing ti ta4 Mr etalanaltstsa~ deine tacel ee G i." balled ¢* * +." » 44 #8 + 4* 44> 4 +. 414 4) Siete Ain, Sonne pale felabiebed teed: _ eee Tan) a rhs aE ee ore ae oe vd peace beh be Md oh eneefor n'a, a) ; . 1 ’ . ad ’ | - | of _ wf a* + , ‘ ; I : * * 41 4 by . ae ey + + ¢24 + ey bi * ++ aye PO PPV Ut ret itnee bd bee Le s bet, ‘ eat be oa as whats? re ATS a * hey Wire a ' a ot eS ee ae B OC Ve “e or ae Pot de ret yt r Ty Ae eR ARG at rs ad oie 6 be", ara Te PERU oe i% * one | ng by Ot ? ad tas A oe ae i ed pa oiiie Lrtad an Sa be a a is rs rt A ma o 9 Sie WAL, * td | ‘Ae Ped iat walt We tte bes aoe be te | Pith Pi ‘on ‘a Sead 7 OC ott J 7 #.6 4% 6 a ee ee et | + Poa aia oy be Oe ht ee bh Ase FL bob PY ro POU C8 bee ba 4 at oe he WO OO tr of bors tf oe bara Tho te bor oe at eet Bee fe ee wt or eee PUG OOOOG oT PO PL Te Ce Pe bie & b 8 dhe *,% f Tt 5o.08 an Wan ed w td bh Matty ‘i+ Li ee eee oe we | . sid 4 . etd ae ed | 4° 4%; —_— 5 ; + a bath Gat a RTL a + a oe eee ih; : +t eh Te roe or h porepereereretinrty * Le ee | ** +* te ot +i ++ . . yr - * 40% a a ho ee ts wre ot MEO hs +b eer bbe . Lew AA OC Tk FLA Da PAPL oF e bebe bd be bene te tie DOL . . ee ee rad" bt ea be Wy bt, tM be be bd et ul Poe ee eee PT * eee reo h ree PU Aa J Ped oe oe Sy We ht ee af 4 PSS bn heen Rah c i aie Wie ae - A Ale ei Se Ennerdale, Wastwater, & Beyond Boot the upper dale is full of beauty, though it lacks a lake or even a pool to mirror the shaggy woods and great hills. hough much rock is visible in Eskdale it is poor, and the scrambles are few and unsafe. A mile beyond Beckfoot railway terminus is the hamlet whence branches the path already described to Wasdale Head. Another mile forward, on the old Kendal- Whitehaven track, is the Woolpack Inn. This has been a dalesman’s house of call for cenera- tions. For the past score years it has been a welcome home for wanderers on these fells. Mountaineering clubs regularly meet here : they are experts in the discovery of genial hospitality. Still winding into the high fells, the road crosses the Esk and splits. To the right, past a larch plantation, climbs the path to Hardknott Pass. On a shelf, 500 feet above the cale, the Romans of old built a defensive fortress, the lines of which can still be traced. The cart road to the left leads past the farm of Butterilkeld to the upper Esk valley. After a couple of miles it comes to an end at the sheepfolds between two spouting water- falls. Here begin two fine mountain paths, hat to the right passes between Bowfell and Crinkle Crags into Great Langdale, and is steep 104the Western Dales and rocky. It is little known but wonderfully interesting. ‘The path by the left-hand stream climbs in about an hour to Eskhause and over to Borrowdale. On the upward route the way Is easy to find. 'The ridges force one to the proper ledge of ascent on the edge of the gorge. Coming down in mist and darkness, however, this way may be an absolute terror. Yet wild and rocky as upper Eskdale may be, it seems to have a fascination for lost folk. If any party goes astray on the Scafell Ridge, missing the paths to Borrowdale or Lang- dale, it may be depended upon to turn up at the Woolpack or at Butterilkeld. The last seaward valley of Cumberland is that of Duddon, From Upper Eskdale there is an easy walk over Hardknott Pass, where the wanderer will find welcome at Cockley Beck. After Words- worth’s “ Duddon Sonnets,” it would be safer to keep silence than to describe the river. In poor prose let me say that the track down the dale gives a series of the loveliest vistas in the Lake Country. Let us start from Cockley Beck, itself a lovely picture among its guardian sycamores. For the next mile the track passes along a level but stony meadow, between high mountains. Then the ridges come near, and there is the gorge LO5 <3 % bad 7 Rae 2 tate | ee Zn a Pe A * " . / c OY Eat, eS can e rte : aang eens semen ee : — : ees . : rs ee ee Merona oe) Pees Yr + FO he 4 rhs — + wor Vary eos OO : * CTP eae * MY TA WwOlN Wott RMS Son Oa WOOO y i° tory be serie yi ‘ : : oF Bort he CE Ort ete ee tas POMS O TiS SCS M OG Lie Cita Ceres Seta en j ro FOO OOO a ete ot ea ae thet etats t+ eae t tag tt he od CR ae a Pear erertrer trees ae be Si ona oee CT Leen tony “it ei glee @ + ite a) Arties tress Ot, a 16. *\* , .. a r PUNE De Oe StteNe Dt a ’ reece rete eepeen stat itinress sottsioos an "es $b bie y Per Serr pe ee COC ot eee re ae Se ee Oe Pt eee ee : +. * 4+ 7 Tr. MOOT Rare Paar ptm 234 r a} ty TL. ~ +37 tet ir ee Poe et we Pet oe ST TE, ee ’ oe Pa POET Lh Parte CTL te Te ae Ph eee ee oe CARTES Area CHTMCICHTVC HC | 74? 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AH Pt te “et * i UL et Nog 18.5 hoe) Lt 7 at + wt ye oe be hy - i RCRD dra ee eee o 4 ae | ets be S i wt oe 44474 rs ote RADE AIOG hey + ea te ror’ MCC aoe et ba be eee it * j —— + ry “he's a wT Whe ty " a —_ | . WORK RRSATORR RHI J. ae * . a 4 aT ee er ke Pe eho ot on rs a ee ee a + erro ee ate | LA ' i eae ees a At | ont i x yOu Syriac 4 Tre EOL TL taser te ore L UU dled a: if 4, 3 ei Ennerdale, Wastwater, & spanned by Birks Bridge, a fine view, with the green track sweeping up to distant Grass Guards on the fell, and a wonderfully clear pool beneath the dark arch. Next comes asplendid river vorge, after which the track sweeps up the hillside. Duddon is no place for hurried folk. You must walk both banks of the stream, and then climb the hills above. Below Troutal, there is a rough scramble toward Wallowbarrow along the water- side. One has to work out the route among trees and rocks. ‘There is no difficulty in keeping well up the slope of Wallowbarrow; the old mountain looks much worse than it is. Butthe best scenery is always in the gorge where, green and clear, Duddon breaks and crashes among green rocks and carries the most iridescent li¢hts and shades. Seathwaite village has its stories of “ Wonder- ful Walker,” the fine old clersyman who resided here so many years, on a salary which never reached £25 per annum. He brought up and placed in the world a large family and, dying, left a fortune of over £2,000 well invested. He was a zealous parish priest: a look through the Seathwaite register proves that he baptised many between twenty and thirty years of age, even from adjoin- ing parishes. He was the lawyer of the dale, and 106the Western Dales made wills and drew up all the transfers of pro- perty. Robert Walker was not a mere money- erubber; he was studious, up to date in his theology and reading, and willing (also able) to assist the poor of his flock from his own scanty store. In his old age he refused the offer of the neighbouring living of Ulpha, though in those times it was customary to take on a distant vicar- age and employ a poorly-paid curate to do the parochial work under more or less lax supervision Seathwaite Tarn, in a recess of the Coniston Fells, is now a reservoir. I have no desire to walk again to its bank. I must, however, recommend the view from the Duddon road above Seathwaite Bridge. It means casting back a mile or so if you have conquered the gorge on your descent of the main valley, but it is worth while. One can spend an afternoon on that bracken-clad ridge which goes from the road toward Wallowbarrow without exhausting the possibilities of the scene. From Seathwaite village the route outward is pretty—not unlike parts of Eskdale, but with a clearer stream. At Ulpha Church there is another wonderful view which was praised by Wordsworth. The traveller who spends two nights at the little inn here would not be disappointed with the 107 ee a - ™ = ° r = ee —— me. i = at a = Fw < al - ee ee 4 — —— A eg ee te ae ae et ee eH re TIL es SOE wi oe hal, ; tis beinhapcadatgesaciiatnipkaaletoten boty, SN hi sor cer Se, stestart? me YT ern ele yuo a yor ay Per eee OT 8 fr Fe re, tt ci) tt ay elite #4 ee Qtr fh ye bg *je Py REMMSOUe init sieeben rea peetC trem rey NTE | ete) o es et bee tt be Pe PCSCC CCU t ccs rs peibebelt ROO Be OFT OD: i wot ry ily Wah Cro" rere atecsarerittl ei, . a pm teeetes Soe ponene MSO RES ‘ rte a Ps Py aH¢ ees . es 4 — yt wh ie + * Ayia n CASE RICCI DCMT e TENT a Se) rest 6106; 410 6:6 a an J Fest Seer or br a boe toe tenn Nt dene Sel ‘ pe +26 Pee re al ah i re! ei eka rs rPheh Petes Por tecat ot SCT i at CPSP RPE A YEE ETT a. TS ag Te hw o Peer TG 7 ; reas *-* bei at oe +s Ba SDS al ATW SOLID FN TOM Tie ae of be of ea 2 Pe Ie he rh ete tele bin eab asap cebatinabetefetlsceieis = ss er or 3* erreyr? ° meg +4) 9) ey is * Cn hd bs oe et aro p 7G et T4°h ts i ia 01s 8°.) fae . 7. CI 4 Bi ieet Oe rs Pe nt be | Ce hoe wae ‘ ih bs be + & re r 5 a rout Pa Pi tA, 7 Ot brie : He + + $7) fi ee ee es * ee i bd J rm aris ery ot ora 7 he aba a ON o 4 aa Le +e soteterte ist up sparererery othe bd e. a vad i ree Re ate TM be Cl eet See | i i 4 ' . ee * *24°,% 6 §°,* 414 « a oe er Gr a Bet a" : aE Stor ee od Ps 4 *1e 4,444 or art POR ea 44's 7 a oe bitibce Pe et ba | : ar’ ry eet eh Pe ea eet S Md UG warts true eepenertcriorspentticienttsbeteerreeepigntetetet * Pa a Pid hd a hee a ee oe ree C Pas - 3 te rae | pe | apt ee 41 <* eek. he od | on ‘ FA r wgetetbaathinstet 1 , mt oe ye Wt be WO Pe he bee a Oooo anit se bie dad eet a MIs EPC aes HS OLthCehial +4 ba bos by Sis ‘ + a oC Oi wert tor ~ > hr Abe _ “i Hn pe ee + & 6 ee F + ty oan ee a Sa he See et he | ape tahs ave ds Jha on) * At rspeletsje btea be ted . ely * Se STGP Me ro ees he te eee Oe Se ibe a rrr wll uf ee * Pt Pe. 2 i’. - me rt rt csanerepererepee rer Nigtigititt* Fa ha fo tbe SOc “® ee / bee + = — bisa a P ; he ba ee | \ Merrit of 2) a oe ee 7 a * +4 . A ‘ rs i rs rt * ve (OC 82 Oe + i. * ie pe BTL iw “2 rt td he be Loe eee ee eed be hed CE Ake hi | ile lie ile ad ee eo ee ++ Ennerdale, Wastwater, & following rambles. Wander down the Cumber- land (Ulpha) side of the stream ; the road now rises, now falls, forgets the river, then returns with a swing. Ultimately Duddon Bridge is reached where you cross into Lancashire. It is three miles back to Ulpha by the “ main” road, and the last mile down the common with Kirk of Ulpha in the middle distance and the great fells beyond is really glorious. Another ramble would take the visitor over Birker Moor, where a short road to the left brings him to Devoke Water, a fine tarn. There can be return along the hills instead of by road. Practically the whole country outside farm fences is open to the wanderer. Broughton-in- Furness can be reached by another lovely route, the Priest’s Pass, so called because the parson of Woodland once lived in a house on Dunnerdale Fell and walked from there to do his duty. ‘There remains to be described the last mountain mass in Cumberland—Black Combe, 1,969 feet, which, according to great authority, commands a view southward to the greatest distance known in England—to Jack Hill in Staffordshire. The Welsh and Scottish hills are visible, with the Isle of Man and occasionally Ireland. ‘There is a good track all the way from Silecroft to the summit. 10dbt a 4 s,i i+ SR eae Mo * +)4 7 fit fie if ‘+ iad peer i OCT St * ea tre! th oD er: i Th re La! i ae ie , } atle rita es — eT ‘oes ae, reer ele be ona " Pee Dee —> wo di et el 73019 rae yy +i* wrth it PoC Pt oe Git dae hae FC Wy Went bre acres ree rerst gt) tr >.+ i 7OC oe ell, POA es Pebetetotye se leet UR erty aera k F = } WO tore Jit eo ee Pe Pt oe | Mie + 616.6 46 o¢°s* § Pr ee + ¢4 7 Foe ++ D s & , a i? 7 + * 6,.*,4 beer hi ty hi + ed +d e+ Ca bi * _ vy | + oe ¥ ’ ‘oT ed n a4 e.4)4 ae ee fe ia +a ae a et ae.) nithe Western Dales If there is a wind on the Irish Sea, it plays around the head of Black Combe—sometimes in unruly fashion. ‘The broad grass path cannot be lost. However, rambling even in misty weather cannot bring one into trouble. There are no cliffs and few rough places on this outlying mass. ‘The Druids’ Circle at Swinside is not quite so famous as that at Keswick, nor yet as Long Meg and Her Daughters in the Eden Valley, but in the gloaming it is an eerie place. Black Combe is always worth a ramble if fortune favours. ‘There are several inns within reach, and Silecroft or Bootle are quite ood country villages, The latter, however, is rather near industrial and mining Millon, and is apt to be submerged by workers, their wives and bairns by the hundred. There are farms further north, quite close to the sea, where bathing is possible, but Selker Bay has the reputation of having a dangerous current. The gun-range at Eskmeals is less used in these peace-and-economy times, so that the coast is almost as quiet as one could wish. - “he | a er aime inn ' ‘| , oe ey Iti owen! Se t h in a ay =) | 7 ~~Miaje} : re Puts $4", o ee6 a RSE CET OC) a 4 ed il OCH RIT AE s ote be grat oe on rs yt ie he be oe = sce eee enc | rs ba he ba tk fees eee A ay tet ia o J et i] aatihe rved Teen NTN 4 Lt ROU Cs * * # & a os ry ee + ** 7 nd) Oe Oe te re ai i ne Oda ba bd be, 4*24546 ac.e rte ta} ee Ps a” i cf eas ta at eS 7 - ‘ **#eee 74 ee + fs7%, ae het tee hy sas _ * s * Wi ore ny Cae or Pe be i J ba stetat be estaesattat sbaeasthe o ——) Peete” Pd eee “4° * 4.4 ewe a ee Wel WhT GAA ALANA PLItr ee eh aa ee et arate i WW bre LL AAC i LAA + +4 c Oot t Pec MO a oe Pe be 4 hal ; . + 4 Fb bie ow ag 4 ree’ & a. ” 7 Mtg od Ott Por ee or es Pr rye 1 he ao, ee ee he af Perera re erste ye | eh La te orhs a roe * ee Oe ee er wore Moret 7 PL fy Att! LL s +je,4 at ot ere Pra! o,0.455 0) ee * font | wees ‘hs be Led nr pete or ead LLtL bik PSI RSRETEMD EDEN SONIC WD CER DENS tH AC ar) co * DSty oe nol Cre + 4 eee ea tes b. oted br bo tg We he eee h et n ea . tlie *# ee * ar 2A ** 7 H es * & 6, 4ye,4 UL CHAPTER VII CONISTON, ESTHWAITE, & FURNESS ; FURNESS ABBEY, CARTMEL PRIORY, THE SANDS ONISTON suffers the fate of a younger sister. She cannot be the Cinderella among lakes, for who dares hint that Windermere is an “ ugly sister °P Coniston is a river-lake of the same general type as Windermere, easily accessible by road, and there is an undoubted tendency among tourists to overlook its charms. Ruskin’s residence by the lake attracted literary pilgrims during his lifetime; a few still come to his grave in the churchyard, but somehow the great fame seems to have departed. ‘There is nothing the matter with Coniston as a centre, whether for fell-walker, motorist, or ordinary tourist. In these motor-days the journey from Winder- mere is a mere thought, and therefore easily for- gotten. ‘he car hums out of Ambleside two miles to Skelwith Bridge, roars up the steep and twisting ‘* brow,” runs along the shelf above Col- with, and curves up the next hill to Oxenfell Cross. From this there is swift and continuous IIOConiston, Esthwaite, & Furness descent to Coniston. The eight miles have been covered in a series of motor gasps; yes, and there are views of the Langdale Pikes, of the fells up to Helvellyn seen over Elterwater, down the deep gorge of Yewdale to Coniston Water, which make one’s breath stay for a moment. The road to Coniston has been made easy by good engineering and petrol power. For the ordinary visitor who plans by the map the village seems to be “ the end of things.” ‘The road back to Ambleside is apparently the only issue of importance. Coniston has three or four excellent hotels. There are other houses of entertainment in plenty. The Black Bull has a certain aroma of the old dales inn; the others are ultra-modern. If you want a pot-house of the old roadside sort, study the Ship Inn in a recess off the Broughton road, half a mile south of the village. The lake is not easily studied. Roads may pass along its beautiful bays and reaches, around its head, and across the foot where the River Crake escapes toward the sea. ‘This is an easy sixteen miles run, along a road which is tortuous at places but never difficult. It is profitable to halt at the point below Ruskin’s old home at Brantwood, where a shingle spit runs out into the water, and III ee a el aed ar’ + * i itt betel VOCs) Ae (210 n sere feds a » ‘ * Poe ES +3 ae 7 eee - . ~ —_ pene wits fe ee . ee ae Re come a a Se i eenemconme i + + oF F ee ee ae tee 3 att bala titi hee ee a elt at oot ata atistetets® ete TU re ett * bepetagigeetifigioigietertietetery, ew Ser ere Pet vy oe | re tae ots fe Lata eae ty pee Fa J * it gat die ct (aa. eth SS ar sete © «¢ @,¢ 4*: 4, .° brdetceceltiettivnk: he Se ae POOUU OUT i irtestte Ue, PEM BYE SSC OS CET ey ato + 7 Ph hr ie eh PEM a peseerteey ey + " an ot tee UOT ar ; e: 7 + eet pelebyt Lt batrredstase a ( **¢ J CJ : ** FG Poa bd ron + do bl aU 05 oe v a ere ot hd eters or Tt ii = Per vas tee oe, eas Ct) Us Pee ba a oritttitegaass ee beatasite pereneetat, yerer ts tothe bees peas t pee erik Pore eS beso: cP obepohateLeleceettadealaisitleisisetstotedobotet tat tit te leleieigys mrgk & a ‘ er aT aE E as) i aett rey ee" FO LIL et LJ Se . — i ? “ee a ot eared wp he of ot eT oT ot Mee CT ek a ee he RE tte St Fate MUM eee eee tect ey tr / astale yee ro -_ ee . 4 ed oe Oe ba Af. ~ ai Ww 4 ee we ae nt ee ie @ ee Bs at. 4 - & #24 o7,*h*. +. « a De ry + a ee oes + BL BRAT eN ee Te | ae ‘ . ay ae oe tae 5 A OM ae " THeprch teers i ia a serene: Pa’ Joy ta oe hd i. bi UO i §- bie: ibe ay Lk ¥ at “4 ‘ * a et te oe ae a eo ett he é.«.4 ‘whe * A Oe ee oe a Fh te °° Ee Ce Per it ae oe . * «4 4", * ,., ae s* Oe Dare Ur a * + 4* M 7 oh: od i hs CI Aa aw Ny tin od be rtd true bd tn eS *e#e ve ke Be Y ; . rd id Per teastere pert tetteteregrreresiete popes igs 7 a rae eree bee ie oe tn Per tree Se ke be | a eee) cw 4 gos s* rs vt of Sir We bh be t4be ee rte Ur i a at “i*} =} D he a bal i) A A + be shh a .t bd A sbetciotel-torerep Tenet i erty eT ore a be We bf Ws 9 be be a rt et te Ce ee , 4 a we a) rcs Fi A Too ole SPOS ra Sth doe pattie bet ke! ' een i i a ie A Coniston, Esthwaite, & Furness there to spend an hour in exulting over the beauty of level lake, green fields, bright streams, rich- hued woodlands, of crags with their spits of heather, their patches of moss and bracken, of the Old Man’s sheer slope overhanging the lake, of the many other fells which shade away into distant purple and blue. Ponder such glory of shape and colour when you can ; you will travel far through the world before you find a view which appeals more to eye and mind. The village of Coniston has few sights ; its little history is bound up with copper-mines and slate- quarries. ‘The hall has the customary round chimneys of the Elizabethan mansion, but there is neither romance nor record. The fairies have all died out after the last giant left the grim cave in Yewdale. Coniston folk have been more inter- ested in the treasures within the rocks than in glories which are above the earth. The church is worth a visit, but it has not the fell-head sternness of Grasmere. There is a characteristic monument over Ruskin’s grave with riddles and signs for literary folks to read and discuss. There is a good museum which will be forgotten until a wet day, and an institute which is far more active than most of its sort. Most of the old buildings with 112 SeA eg PHOT ah let re <— pane neg ee a a ee diana a neta ame, a ~ at ini aecaa a * ba % it * ry ha ba ri ee *.+ . an a era at) nt Yt ara SRR CRG eS Oo oars be S Ra he rors, tyre ayo aaah ae | fF RYT ea) Bros a ist i 5 s * Se * +t a * 7 i] oe * 2 i «4 or nd + aie 4 bee Tat i. ‘ “ n ; a eH re ee tbe se) Ch be bey Siti, oie 4 4°)? @ ute Saha bt OM tres rarer rete ar +e * + #4 bs os CI 4 OOGt iene ad rea | Sd ¢ s bd a4 n tnd oa Neienrsnirsat tet Pe Wh wot grec etataty LPTs tsa: TCC a ee ee Se noen | My -* + O P Thee oe ae ad *°,9,%) 24 «4 TT t.4 + a Fo + + + « + tee se ak a ee ad Pty eH RRR a Se a 7 * i Hi fal ou ea Vy yy ey [ee eh ans Pi e i co 4 F a Pi ar Romsocsetere ne "eeaee6 as ° ‘to =+ + ru ay Nees Anon eda A 4 sa nd Thee a te Ch * o AL phe. a . e+ ms Are oJ o*a* * 4 aT brie a ba | + nt) a - tet r + ° ee esha OL fe iW Dual 2 it pt mee re A Shay ot Ae oe eet r, a 4°,’ * cee Co ted A a | aaa ora: APO ae 7 ** | 2 tI * + a os * Fe = - are oe) Pare r - ya SS ~~ ie Alltel lel a i — ed ad . a ret . 4 ae el at — Pe eed - eee = | ale “7 eer Te ia «¢ @ @ 4. £+°.- 4 +4 +44 *7?#* LOU ad A i babs sé Ps 4 +e + ++ Pod ees trt*4- * - Ps ** - a NIV.LN i ry (| e+ A Peres | . by PeLLVY MALS V MA a. *~* * a | rer oa Pes Lin Ueda breed breed et bt bee eu °)* 0.9, 64,474.46 4b Oe be SCO te be Geer br ee ad \d be od Ms ‘ ' - Lereterr * * @.¢ afata* 7 a "4 hd ae ame + roe P| an Lia t ri bib * he , of Pe ae’ yiArh - te oe be) rE «*s"s> RI am . 0 Cin . eee | eee eee +6 | 6 : ter * + “yt a ~ Lee he 4 at * Ue ‘a bg be he ae : eo. TT de si +. 4.4 _* 2 ©) & 4) Tot $9 erate Se Skid) , ao ou rar |Coniston, Esthwaite, > Furness their galleried fronts have passed away in the last generation. There is one fine old specimen two FF los up Yewdale, and another about a mile on the Hawkshead road. One feels that there is a certain amount of peril in even mentioning such survivals, for by the time these pages are in the hands of the reader, the spirit of improvement may have swept one or both out of existence. The rambler will find enough to occupy a full month at Coniston. ‘There are easy walks in the dales, by the lake and streams; there are more arduous tasks along the fell-paths which open in every direction. ‘There is a fine ramble over the hills behind Brantwood to Grisedale, the next valley to the south-east, but one must return by Hawkshead or make the day strenuous by follow- ing through Satterthwaite and Force Forge to Nibthwaite and back up the lake. Many people are wise enough to take the path to the ridge, and then return with faces towards the glorious towers and hollows of the Old Man range. That customary view-point of the old horsed- coach excursions, Tarn Hows, is practically un- attainable at present. The road has been grooved and torn by timber traffic, and no sane motorist would dare travel over its broken culverts and 113 H - — Ee ra — a; * ~ a ae a ae - ’ | 1oer by oes a —— etal see = —=— a ee ne th ate a ici ay a tn cc a - ee i an a — ce Hi SUCOOSIC = #6 4 ¢ Te Pe ty reer tt hi treet ** : ee " mpabehstatedoded ttt hig aibdaeddcg be ’erelit OOOO CON oe ‘ ee OSS hate IOC or " oS eRE Seer tattea eno SCS) — hak “4 - hte hh ae et 7 Poe het ++ yee RF Bo t . oe Fe | A ra PETIT CP CIT Tt a OO A rept histetb thts 8.3.4 Satie s elecd a uel ’ r a. - hat oe ie tletpteaitielapeseisslplntrdetsglgiettinied + A SULIT PO arapetbobed foted-fafef Oe Eri CW hr taoee cn Tie, , #6504 be ey os ++ F , : odsgeccistestineetediokets SHH eee or tera tah ates eorrutr i*1ele Nd M4 a + Cee at Kee e ylides a. or a ae Ot OD au SryucSor rs Poe beet Pi Ste ere: ed ’ — 7 Le ie ‘ ! on re . +'e 6 artee er PPOOCCODOS oI | Pe Me Ty Pe doe eee is 8 Fad eet at Teeter Ge. - ry , M : 4) CIE P4 ee r Cy SPE iy odes Lalas ieheiebotobeielretaaaiielrid TORR ey o*.* =“ “Ue | + SA RES TSR etch . od . SUOUOUE ERS ay | of Pe et bo ted GT ee he te te eee Te ** erat gt iec tliat g* bd ‘ + *. a i . Pie oe | eI Cn ae hd Oe oo DO othe othe be ad er Ga Oe ook REE OCDE Boy r FA a i nogrdnt Se J . . i i S UOT) a ©.6:4°, 576 376c6 a te | oe bed aa oe ae oe ng ae) | d SC eet PL bi he Porbricek vasa asl peeks a*5é ++ + 4* ad fd +01) $7 4% ‘ a 5 4,+,* * Sia, + a t Pate tart Parke tb * TCAD ts tr rbd oe * eit © tee ie te aot CG ere) Cot oe ee by be kT tenet. K roe i fo ee i> ae + ry Te ie Eero P| pat Se | LAP Pe eg a CPP ae te rR Aree We’ LE erert UC PO os res bE TEM GP et CI baker et PL, eee t rf ry a: 4 a ee ee ee Ls tS. Gee * rhe eee fete rte ae ae i Vi bd be bn Be ay bl LODOOGE OHA ry roe ar rs ry ar iy baie + t, eter a oft MY tees ee ee he | i oT ert el *gtrt fAersd~poiepejeiete | Bae WTS ATI J i4°ece. 4 A* 8 eee Mf tA Al a 416) 4 a, 046 ore st H a La heee wl Pee St be St etl Se Sr Or Oe OE es _— o. ™ Bits; 4 a alesis sea i tic mt ee | “tl | thu on Part) Lt : n . i >t Parent be be Gt) (ST \ hee re ee ot i “ at A Ee} ee Pa sas ‘es es it hf ora ts eee a ee Coniston, Esthwaite, & Furness ploughed fairway. The evil will remedy itself (or be slowly remedied by the District Council) after the last tree has been cut and carted away. In the meantime patient Coniston has lost its beauty spot of Tarn Hows. It wasa splendid walk. The Old Man (2,633 feet) is an obvious objec- tive from Coniston. Go where you will, the great mountain peers down on you. ‘The active can scramble up and down in a couple of hours. The quickest route passes the corner of the Sun Hotel, up the gorge of Church Beck, to the first big waterfall. Here a miner’s track turns left through a gate, and there is path, road, grits, and dullness up to the tiny cove of mountain which holds Low Water. At a quarry-platform here the path turns left, up a steep corner above old workings, and there is an easy scramble to the cairn. After such an ascent the climber knows nothing of the glory of the Old Man range. Here is a more leisurely tour which enables one to obtain excellent views and a thorough knowledge of the mountain. ‘l’hrough the railway station arch, go straight up the steep track between wall and gully. At the top of the stiff rise the lane flattens out, winds to the left, then takes to the open fields. Where the track enters the moor, there is guide- 114 eeConiston, Esthwaite, & Furness post and cross-roads. Do not take the tempting road to the right; follow the Walna Scar path for some half-hour round the flank of the moun- tain, which is now close at hand. Just before a big stream is reached, turn to the right up a well- worn track. ‘This is the climbers’ route to Dow Crags, and in five minutes you are in sight of the great rocks. That is your direction. There is a fair path through the wet grass, and a dry one further up the hillside. ‘The lower route is marked by piles of stones and small fragments on boulders, There is no need to lose the path across the great basin, beyond which it turns left and scrambles along the rocks, finally turning a sharp corner to find Dow Crags almost overhead, and Goat’s Water near at hand. ‘This sheet makesa splendid picture; there is a ruffled shadowy surface, the great fans of scree, the mighty crags sheering above, their front shattered and riven by the storms of ages. At the head of Goat’s Water, wander up the crass slope to the pass where there is a sudden and satisfying view of the Scafells, Bowfell, and the whole northern and western fells. Turn sharp right, and, as height is gained on the grass slope, further to the right. On a clear day it is easy to II5 is . *% F * +. ts 7 onal aan a Pre ———— ~ i . ren eee “be | a — a on os = so ee i a at or ‘ 4. . OC whrcrc tireee | BESET SEL eSeSea SERRE oT Se ‘iP be ek 4%, One " es STePa Teal S wal stl-satselecethes tants te! he h ae BE YE he ba id ra ier Tre Sr ESSE resa ss So Tera te wa a ee + 4 a? eee vO IE Ry aeasas retrace + + + 4*,*.* ad a Pe et oe} te eT eiariee i TQOST RRA H Sirletapericdedett-g-t he ete or | pebleled ts Ln wh PT. sest on be te : 7 Fae PT. hae Saath tiaes anor tl art +e,” hae oe) ii cise in einai. ital - ii * n" moe Ta tral ray ; Par rad * aie PT bd Ae ee rey re * bd Par) * ne | re ih H : ee ye hese by SeSt aaah, -e astotaishstetetah-titatie igang ee. Py tai 4 ret we . + 1 ¢ A, ore 4", ‘i Fs *ee tae ACCENT Mw Fae Ser *. 7 1 7 talploernst tala Utah haeceseehesefetaces teighatastitataestieitrege 44 ae we Corre trae re Tif PP oP aeh he ee are ba MeL Petre PCC HIE N FORE SCICIC STE tothe seen e Coes oi. or as ry NOV IC POOL O ae Sooo aACOCO 4 a+ + eed and seyrery eehstaly . oe hg 4" a? fa et ri al | A Peat a OC Ot Wh Wy H aah be at iy re othe sy | Pt ie | + hy re * + rs a hy ‘4 ee ae oe oe ry ‘ * A ‘ rn 4 ** tt Prt MOO et Or re 67 Ph tt wu Jr Se phe he 4 aL rae ot eee * aa . a $.¢ 6.4 4* * , J ee ** Te Lhe ty J ee * + : =Tateteperys stujaperetey ee LL + 4 Fr o ete bee hd te GeO TCT an +4 ed ee eee ee et Oe eT eee ae a) tt De * © @ 8 6*,*s*1*,* t* of 24 J oe eet td af bat Le ao) yt hy SA hee eT othe Soe Gse PLLC WC tet onrt: LOC eet he nd ee ee he ee a BO Oe Oe fe Pag 4 7 ee ree **e * oa * Le ot Of be he ba . we rf + @,¢ 0,0, 9 6 6 ae So. ee re or ee oe oe 2 bs ba rr peng Ped tee ee as - ne ers te ta o.e:) ob: bh -* O:0-6 81046 4*° * ee Ao * err STeecrererryerrr Dee ete th ol EN bra eee) © #4 Pt Ps Ae req’ Be +4 . 7 ad a*) rt SR RANT ig! ++ wer At 7 . *~ * bi PAP Oe OTT STN Pe oe he be ab bie Ora ace! A AAU Prsleitisioinisj-te'= er eerrapet Pg Py. or ee ee Pot “oar te Ss ba + ie Pha ee ey Le oe oe oe ahd Lea ape, 496, 0)¢,4 %, 4 * he P| e+ SOO Pe ADC a) i tren Ne igisdeipinichet pistettsrpeteqenrest-iniat Paste RRR REN . 7. « rh) AP ered be br SC by | ' “ Coniston, Esthwaite, & Furness find the Old Man’s cairn, but in the mist one usually trends too far north. The view from this high ridge is still another surprise. The whole of Lancashire is at your feet; lakes of Coniston, Esthwaite, and Windermere, with golden sand or blue tide within the estuaries of Leven and Duddon. Ingleborough in Yorkshire is easily visible forty miles away, and to the west there is slimpse of the Isle of Man and of Scotland beyond the headland of St. Bees. The view from the summit of the Old Man is among the best in the Lake Country. The route of descent depends on time. The lover of high places will prefer to continue along the ridge to Wetherlam, with the option of return- ing down the cleft between Great Howe Crag and his mountain. MHurried folk simply face eastward. There is a path to Low Water and down past the quarries, or one may take an independent course to the right, aiming for the guide-post at the cross-roads on the common. No one should come into difficulty on the Old Man in daylight ; the obstacles are easily avoided ; they are merely out- crops of broken rock. Tilberthwaite Ghyll is a picture-postcard sensa- tion—a picturesque gorge between lofty rocks where pools and falls are passed across wooden 116Coniston, Esthwaite, & Furness bridges and up ladders. The Yewdale road from Coniston is taken for about two miles, then first fork to the left into a scene which reminds one of a Scottish glen rather than a Lake-country dale. Less than a mile forward the entrance to the ghyll is marked by refreshment signs! A Lake District Association provides and keeps up ladders and. bridges; there is no fee. ‘To the inexperienced in scenery, Tilberthwaite Ghyll has novelty, but really it is not comparable to the rugged majesty of Piers Ghyll among the Wasdale Fells. Instead of taking path westward from the upper bridge of the ghyll and crossing the wet moor, it is worth the extra hour to continue west of the stream to the top of Wetherlam and descend to Coniston by Red Dell and the Mines Valley. These glens round Coniston are charming. Yewdale, however, has a few secrets. It can show hidden ascent by Glen Mary to Tarn Hows, but at present this is marred by timber operations. There is also disagreement, a generation old but never really settled, about right-of-way or of rambling there. On this point the tourist in the Lake Country is rarely disturbed. It is a good thing to accept every facility offered ; the tourist is merely a stranger out to see his own country. 117 a ee an ne aly vt.) 7t) a 1 ae Sy Se TM aes en: vi ee. aes a nition =< i che se ne ~~ Chee Ca. as Leted f r bs MSE SC ot sase rer hr ae . *.ibiee a CoCr bees set F ia eat + — < —— ce és ~~ - ee el a , SES wr ertoee eater he RT ase aessa mote fear totsrt at oO Sao MPH b elaleleeninelagetede platted cecalgintpiniebesdacye alee niqinid he peitis eases TOT ar rst sbiptadabariedad . iti EW be Grere ool a ite eee a” ra Pet CM M4445 et Oe be bret te 78) a hs . tepeielessteder leit itietedielas it i hid cence A ee ose tl nee el a ~~ = ee thoy afetet ee sitiseriti: rere eet seot bee Sy a sd “+ Tit «+ie POC Oe beset hehe s pare: 1 steb-b-tatcnipcaleleieiacg gly: cage TS. 1 e%9 “+? 6,010 9°, 55 eee | - Ce eee oh x 7 a = - ome a Pet) ot 6 9b bo bie 01616 6 10.6 0b 6914; Oh* 879,050) 92°5 101 058 Lele ers PER MR IRR HR aR TIRE MeO : N ahs P +P ana8 ieee ; . Fae BI eect tek eee od oo oe cheea. ae ba | a ara Ps rt é Me be teee ttl 0 PG 4 ot a4 * —— ae Ce oar of ee . ri rete et Cs py ++ : MH TOeT Ot beet tet Oe to at he A P J etd hd ! ie > en #>i% a bd etre by a Cs aw et o On Ute @ ’ ei writs* ecsiinndiiee dik 4 oa ar an WARM tre oe? Sn A Ee a OEM RI : t . a ~ J ** ah @ 6 4*1* 6* * os 4 v4 “4 we Ut ott Ge bi Vee oo bie " A oi IR ‘ + * a | #. A 7 _ bd Nd “a . a Cae r as Or? G + *» & 4* ee ee ot Pa ee POT PC . "4 *4 te ba ns ** &e PUL bored we LCer ot hy * y" Seibert i a a a a lea ba od Wha Bre err Wing geet beate (Mh toca lers obra brat O10 6.4 Oe ble biG tt Oh pee ** 4 0 ‘ie de be’ Pit od te bd bs "4 a art 7 rt Leh | bf bet Fas Le ee Lhe td ba a et ‘ca irr oe wt 4.4 \* *-* ’ od whIT ‘ afte bee . aie eg | =e} SA err ee rhe ee |. ,* + a - rs BT pip oe ha *,* > P rT ert fod bee eee Oe be be - : Fg + ft ot ht ig wt Od ey th meets. ae hid ber Py i he le ‘ ee 7 >. hI + Pe by Win Pet ° rn e ber kek ly by te hoe be we | oe PR oe eee oe ee Pt eet : reac ere’ eri | rerrrrt “ee at Theres hy a MO ee ae : A Mh oC i wide TIT TCM M tee be eG, Poe ht he +e tee @ bag oes [ed ‘ + a“y",* * ole e 4 +,4 Pmt a ts | cata Ltt asks Se a * ta *-. ; ; Fi -_ ay=ryotoree? es wn eo on be ha as oh 1 > ; — ~ — - o Pt 4 ey; 14 be | eg! ad | * @ #4 & & hg * A) a MRP yeh he bee mth J bd Wel Whe er tr br othe ban Pt aoc a we Ct OE Oe teh Pied bids Poss s : * es +4 D Reet ae a Coniston, Esthwaite, & Furness thwaite, and public access is not easy. The con- trol of boating and fishing is exclusive rather than welcome. This factor prevents the vale from taking great place in Lake-country renown. It is a lost world where perchance hearth-taxes and boon hens are still demanded from tenants and neighbours. In some ways Esthwaite is an oasis —a green or gold or purple patch, for here as yet the * desirable building site” mania is almost unknown. Does that fact wipe out every petulant and acerbic criticism one may pronounce against its ancient days and ways? Heaven prosper the peace of Esthwaite and preserve Hawkshead in the error of its tortuous Ways. ‘There is a delectable region of lanes and paths north of Hawkshead, by Outgate to Barngates, and away to the Brathay Valley. One must go on foot, and it is even better without a map or guide-book. Abandon macadam as soon as pos- sible, and you may find delectable Sandground with its quaint old cottages jammed in by a brook side. ‘The old road to Wray winds through small farms ; there are paths and tracks to the higher ground with delightful views of the head of Windermere. From Hawkshead southward one is less free to 120Oe ee eo ee ee ee ee Coniston, Esthwaite, & Furness wander. This is a land of game, of coppices and charcoal hearths, of farms in secluded clearings. Dale Park is surely quietest England. Beyond it one passes by water mill, bark shed, and white- walled cottage down to Rusland Pool, the last untouched bit of swamp in the district, a glorious sanctuary for bird-wanderers in winter and in summer. ‘There are massive beeches and lofty pines with an undergrowth of alder and dwarf willow. Now we cross the Leven, Windermere’s outfall stream, into Cartmel. The fine old church here was saved when the Priory was dissolved because the parishioners exercised their right to worship in an accustomed place. All the same, the roof went into decay, and much fine carving has been destroyed. Cartmel is a place of ancient record and renown, though its gift “ with all the Britons thereon” was rather drastic work of a Norman monarch. Cartmel Fell, miles away, next the Westmorland boundary, had a ruined old church dedicated to St. Anthony, but now it has become trim, neat, and worthy its service to God. ‘This place is best visited from Bowness or Windermere, as described in our opening chapter. From the Priory there is level meadow to the Air a _— ee A l,l ae ic e i # A et ec lie ee ee ihe ies ba a baa BOO : ‘ roses are ~ «* —aeaaaa Cee ee Oe, *- . re Se ee | ee es Ps ° a: " J + Oe rev FOOT Tete seta ete arsee npn ot sie . iH 7 * rar : eke — oi 6-e'4°. 4, e+ + — ee 7 Ser * Fi 7 ese PO a r no bs a : ao. reste yer A sie"l* ae / L ' J shit rary BOUT bof ngegige | Bt ei Serer HA aT eee A LPR UP LT GU WW hy hott af oa Cea HOW MMH eit Sr éeeat ws * end ae tbarer sh Peaks oP be Lou et re bet eeed oa ott tort eh tytat petederans HE tS ‘oe oe oe Oe a Ne eegr bees poise oreo! emer pecrest tonics + rs oar) he hee Pi as erdtateeet Te Tee * ae eee git: to ©.6 = + 4,4°4*_*i* out 44.4 at PU * +10 16 + er? + - = ~ s a 7% ‘ sl * re : s + rn er 9 vw rere o teh tio.é eT eT at eat OF | Phe ht Pair Pye ; 1 f - rer he Bid atatatitir aie Fe a Men ere ere cre ert CIO Toc orem tite tserere ROC nee te tce CRT E rtsis H a minor Sen i a WTA ATU) Pea we he! va i ur Pe a ro et ee ees a] rad a id ed td Ld " PPh RU aR SSSR anuTRCARRAN TRC * 4 +2 14 he oe: s ie “eet “i ‘ DS Sot io + ‘ ry Ps wberadatat i as a Q ~ i 2 oe et A Ph, ae a", De Pade Cat bs heh [ ‘ La tanh eee ea ear aE ae hs be babe waren) | * $ «sii hb ve sc Loe oY o Lg C7 ; 4 7 rn « * es ** 4 6 eed hs at Orta rae Pd ee | id aa oa aa on een — a ¥ J ~- r ‘of inde I te we bd * A ’ bd a * ba * aa | i a ri a ‘ + +4 * 4 rt Pert SAT a ap hte gts 4 oe Shee Y ort) oe Pe Pat be | * a Pes Mod lt tt apse i te+eaee ‘a Ms ‘ia Cm wt id ry eMC rae or et | + APSO a) +e 2 ‘ Lee a rarer T SLIT LATIN Lottiot ore bd eae be a at ee oe oe * «,* a. ak « 4 + 4 ee be e+ + . a - AJ a. | ‘ a r r’ a a o. e s J sd ai POU: bid O:bia a". embsie]eteheteererere ym reeteti haa... 8. sat bd bd db ee it i ’ bette | Peas, “eal tel bs \ te" : } 4 + . 7. ul od s + : ’ , i sr a - oe to a re £4 » ri ae 7 " ee a [ + So -«, 8 h*,4 0148 6 Sieve! meee ie Com ‘4 of hd ws aN, **etee oH ae ee ; * Thott Per rt ‘ Ped be be ed a a Pee Ps a* » a ot Stee er er oe 7 Pou ot Pa * “4 ay + *j a*}* » 4 J 4 a <"4%5"44 r «4 a ae ie ee me) ihed a ah } . hd Ai Coniston, Esthwaite, & Furness sea at Cark, and to that funny old town, Flook- burgh, which has ancient cognisance for its market and fairs. Not many years ago a Member of Parliament convulsed the wits at Westminster. His name was Haddock, and he had to ask a question about the mussels at Flookburgh ! Humble fishmongery if you will. Just north of the coast railway is Holker Hall and Park, one of the seats belonging to the Duke of Devonshire’s patrimony. ‘The present Duke lived many happy years there as Mr. Victor Cavendish before he succeeded to Chatsworth. He stood out as an excellent agriculturist in a district where fame is not measured by prestige or the power of the purse. Holker Hall is not open to the public; its ancient art treasures were destroyed by fire many years ago. ‘he park, which contains Roudsea moss with its heronry and vagrant red deer, is really fine. It is worth while taking a quiet drive or walk from Cark to Haverthwaite in order to pass through the long avenues of trees all bent backward by the strong sea-winds. The eastern shore of the Cartmel Peninsula has the villages of Kent’s Bank and Grange-over-Sands, places of winter renown for warm air and sunshine. Cartmel ends in the gaunt limestone cliff of I22Coniston, Esthwaite, & Furness Humphrey Head. A crevice in the rocks here disclosed the bones of many extinct animals. The little medicine spring of Holywell beneath the cliff once had renown—its waters should not be tasted by the wanderer. ‘They have drastic action at times ! Now we cross to the west side of Leven, to Ulverston with its ironworks, to Swarthmoor Hall, where the founder of the religious Society of Friends, George Fox, lived, and where his Bible and chair are treasured. Baycliff is an old fishing hamlet; the church at Aldingham is next the shore, but was traditionally in the centre of a great sea-lost parish. Gleaston Castle was composed so hurriedly as a defence against pirates that its walls are merely cased with half-dressed stone and filled up with rubble. We are passing this way to reach Furness Abbey without touching too closely the iron-ore regions about Dalton, though the streams round Urswick ran blood-red to the sea. Furness Abbey is the great ruin of the Lake Country. Its dell, “The Valley of Deadly Night- shade,” is marred by a roaring railway, an extensive and elaborate hotel, and the usual signs that crowds come out from Barrow to walk and disport The ruins are carefully guarded and 123 themselves. ats ie ot tf tt ee te nn | le eee de a et el ee dll ald cealaciiatia haan dd dl Ce - °° aie o A a il Pee leat a > + el a ell a A a fe St SS ee a ee iaitiealiaas ae jn + 7 = ~ . 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Py i = , A on. rt . , ** @¢4 a: §*4*,*;! Cha sbi! eee bl aye ot Ieee a. as Herero 4 : +4 bs oe re + % TSK oe Ca 7 a te be OF Te es oP Ce Pie © ee oe ee | 7 - Pr a ee ares on Agrg 4 re * Nat +. Vaart nl ey Dt be ee te oe * LL URLLT Sear haa A, be ATHY UU LAO AP" reed +4 @ a rye ed r be tarind ) be br he ’ Pe ed + a + i aan rue eee OC +64 a a * o*ay*s ti! a ia : Par aes be On ad ioe Ben | han babe toed aa alee" yh* rt sea rey itch me ber REDO E ye Por bee > & > ee St Pty Lrantet SAO 7 * Siwy Se ee aie Ae ily er Ld Re oe ee ee ae es ee rn ‘ + “al | * * « Ps a 7 Pa Se ar ee it*« et a 7 4 ae m hy Seyret Y's rN at ee $i * The.ee Me ot es rm at acta si peot ae? e+ +e ** Cm * 4:44 a o rt, ee ‘is @ Ed 2 ee Coniston, Esthwaite, & Furness cared for; the grass is a lawn, moss and ivy on walls and buttresses is under control. Much work has been done to render towers, walls, and arches impervious to the weather. The history of this abbey can be stated briefly. King Stephen gave the monks of Savigny the right to settle in 1127, and they raised a building in the Early English style. Here and there sculptured heads of King and Queen are found. The land given covered the whole of Furness, Cartmel, with Borrowdale in Cumberland and estates in Lan- cashire, Yorkshire, Ireland, and the Isle of Man. The abbot’s military force was 1,200 men, and he was king within his own boundaries. He was sheriff, coroner, judge, exempt from taxation and levying his own fines. In the time of the first Edward the revenue from farms, iron, and other sources came to £18,000 a year of normal British money !CHAPTER VIII THE CLIMBERS PARK: HOW TO SEE THE FELLS AP a memorial to its members who gave their lives in the Great War, the Fell and Rock Climbing Club of the English Lake District was able to acquire the right to ramble and climb over 3.000 acres of rock and grass and mountain peak east and west of the Stye Head Pass. ‘The Club handed over the administration of this great estate to the National Trust to secure the inviolable safety of the Fells for ever. ‘Thanks always, be it recorded in letters of gold, to the generosity of Mr. Walker, who owned the land, the Club had a magnificent opportunity, and they grasped that opportunity right well. The purchase price was quickly raised among the Club’s members, and the public had no knowledge of the scheme until it was completed. Some day the public may be told “the Epic of Great Gable,” of a motor-car rush across to Whitehaven, and of the successful and amicable negotiations which accomplished the purchase of the mighty area. The new “ National Park ” includes the summits 125 Z ae oJ a Pe Ps - ; ae —— \? » 1 eS eae ey > : Ss Se eae * + a ee a et a oe ee ee - * “ a ie at ¥ , ime ta cis a gem ng au — a = te a ao + ; re SEA OOR - , i] Ree ae eat eareee aly REEL ERR SR Pe POR TP LI ir 7 Loe ae BAL APTS PST Ss bene bam Sona teS Pte : Uh thy Nene Rh beaetnert yt hee ba dys tytieaticse a ‘if Peer reee re) * ' ne bs Leena! *- es bet IOS ty J ST RR phitiedisjendsdetieg 1g. Se Men eee mete mee tee a a STS ee bet aa it et et bth: ACG $34°] C i : } tintede iota ittede tb atiedeforans Yrs hott fAa Veovaith HOt se aS SFE Spe BPs Ps PITyt IL espe tite er br ats ot eS oe iy ‘ ' ete Ie +e T Labadtialelepebetsteteitintettarebit tlalqieleig ga re > = + +,* 4 + + + ¢ I e,¢ Sele 4° e - + #0) ett ei. ea? rer or on #,°4°S 4,2. od bt oe, Oe oe oe oe é 7 : o¢.& 6 eye 6.4.6 6 416.4 0 4.5°14;°)* tities F ofa vegtdhed eateteb aaa e wens Wie taialate beatae Daas mt ICE Cas ONG ped a hebegad cmt helefabes ec ooo etn ary 4 BF stsrf Re pe is ba bats Le A . FS ri + rs + a eT ee ‘ re eo eee SOT r" err ect wn fa bt ee : pisqehiyr rw wot aa. AD ta it ‘ mt *.* *.* * rs ot | A * #.¢ oe MS yea " ye Y ig 4 ‘ nl P| *# + aera any* SPs ot ir ad wb Sra SAR eR er POG we ee * eb Wh Dune +e bbe *e eee by homeeerpe! met Di Fo ton ts J r at Peet re be bee Ot Pe *- . * + *4 * oe oe he et ee et *i¢,0 a*.* 4* at i ee | PoC ae) eo eo tatatee tsa Saat i. a care 4 ee et Ue Memeo Seve ae | of beet An ° . are 4 * + - 7 e ro * PP ri a. oe +* . . i ot be aa | : rt 7: Pred | R eh + O04 a rm x “> oer G2 a* ‘ ert, era re o 446 616 6 tee PP eae ts Coat | at Nad ig hg Ped bo ot we we Fry = es . “1% 64 6 rs o _* @ + pe at Par teh PU POO Cron oy Folded aL PUI nent br ly by" rt Stn Widitiee! oi iy oy beer Oe eee Ahr! 4 Ce CJ . *-4,6 6.6 6 4>)* * + @ ¢ a me mm) JOU eat she ets heey fs * nh 4 re , “ef en hee LI - + he FG ME Re ee Ay 4 ar er we SC Pee ee a #14 #108 € ee 2 ar) o;6 9 6 ol asisee es Cat i _ _ stedmeetertetptyertrsdtrtiete =" cette ba i bt td 9a AT Gi LLU, + a ; +, ROU UD BEM rere HIULIOT hh) rt on) J shee OMAR MPC, 4 o Py a Ant | RNOLD ret eee . ‘ el rt iy JOT PORE a ae i 4 H rhs , v4 P 7 } > . ‘ “ is . a a SG - . A “+ re tee, 7 e bd at The Climbers’ Park of Lingmell, Broad Crag, and Great End, of Allen Crags, Glaramara and Seathwaite Fell, Sprinkling and High House Tarns east of Stye Head Pass: the tops of Kirk Fell, Great Gable, Green Gable, Brandreth and Grey Knotts on the west. Except at Stye Head itself, the lower boundary is the 1,500 feet contour. The higher is the watershed, Through the pass the boundary is lifted to 1,750 feet, so the development of a_ traffic road in place of the present bridle path is not rendered impossible for future generations. The present generation, at any rate, has expressed its objections to a motor-road over the pass in distinct and emphatic fashion. Cumberland ratepayers also have declined to waste public money on an unnecessary and expensive section of mountain road while they have more urgent business on hand. The National Park was formally dedicated on Whit-Sunday, 1924, when a service was held on the summit of Great Gable, and a memorial tablet on the rocks, with a raised map of the district showing the boundaries of the gift, was unveiled. ‘Ihe title-deeds had already been handed over in October previously at a historic meeting at Coniston. ‘This great estate links on to the patch 126 —— eo ae ee ee eea ere d's ~ 4 ifs Te ells © J ® News Pees a = 4 ey nee - ‘".- ee : ae cies : regret NE geal | Linigmet® : ye sR. a f ~ oom tee Ne 8 eas 108° ~ Lan GDALD S02 Wn 6 wks %e cafeltPikeAY . e*e?, SS J . SS Nea oe Jen eKaewicn o> TONE frHwar ~ ea 5 Bo rowda ey af rinkle Crags Tox a )» e Va 4 y Pie oR Blisca’\ EPu x AYP a be Nn | Pp Sco % FIRST CLASS ROADS7X%. SECONDARY®s, IN DIFFERENTesee* PEAKSA. TREES? ??. 127 ——_— = ~ ee eee * te a a — aa a * nd = ee + N 2" "i oon beiad ' he hae F 4* + oe . * ONO hd : t* @ @, ae Tid A oda a ane - ‘emt. ——— : r 7 ‘ ° “oe Fi ere eee rt + Cf A a 7 " rie oo Seu tE ‘ i Pes Pr i] ue ed Per ord oac iC +.¢4 s eth ba | tt + r + ry f Alt Stet PPE TCIT OCS © i “+ # Preah tires a } * oat 55) at a) - + i J ‘ a an) i tt feecelatetiten ed Ow TOO a ea ee Soo Cr er ee ahd pas aH 4 oe itl ehepalerés eee ete NWwut "ee rf Seiets}tit ve Fi eel e7 ‘eee tie” Paha ++ eal PoOriwy bi rf . crores +46 a ee t a +, yt oo fg Pat bf ee TRL) Pat Be EL? Ce ee Oe eo; ; * Pr Via Ps Leoee a. Se , eS te, 7. mht ante ert Cea : wascoricisiomase Pe aed oaeit : re eel, Ps v4 Ont eats oa 4 Pee LS + « o*,*) ate - Me ) re] BTC aT ee nt hy » *)0 44.4 aS Eas 7 "ee ad | ven ‘ P J =? +4 V3 7 rs at DCT} #,* Pd *.* &.64,¢.4 rf a Tigh te ae see a i il a er tarps s i ‘ Pe {$737 i Tut OU artes urn Shad Sed oe ors a 4 eee ete eh y ee ee ™ - ~~ _ a 8 + a * , Py Ad ¥ Pa) ** st Tt TS Feede Pere Ma PRT CIEE IE IG ¢ porte Tae bas F eLA | ery : iw cere es! ety) UN giied ebelegebcotehe? a‘iy Ct he CL he be be 8 t Oe * * "at, ae ATP aS + rie Pied 44) SHR GREY ‘i+ a) eh > 22 eae be he ++ tt be oe bs SPR Cot Www oe re Sr be ee Ge bieas AA APU J a) ‘ 4 tea A a od ,* Ld Pon te be Oe ae ee ee ee Ps > on | ee we ba ee 7 J - ef epetasse aera! ath ty . ort, Tt ** Lot er bee A af * a Pgs A Fy a ee | wie ane Ce ee ee : rt a Teeeea earnest * eM | 44° ar Daye tetytereyt eu : ren J a ; Hi ; ’ t f 34 ‘ - i ry 1 | fetes * , Pocoe Sete Oe ‘ te +4 rd . eat ‘e 4 412+ Phe Ps oe a ete eee oe oe re eas a bya *s* a Ft raed Were 2D or wre Le PO *. AAS as tA aa) 7 ~ oe | oe ; 4 , #61 *it cigs dit «4 ‘ tee &4 Lt oe or ee + + AG OOPS SCS eres some ot RIT ELAR RAR ESINOOC eee} Ct be bd he ow Rt HOT * * 4 ++ 44 wae * OF Se hg | ea I: a. my . * * tie a *& ee * . oJ - a Tirictpigteptactetetnlctsta desert + PS hai r a°s Ppt ot Ge Lad er a ‘ / iw AP i. od Sed els Por ee | ye YCot PE s.*' a * a) ‘ 086 10,9.6 0) 477419 $44,815,045) it te bah Py — ' “pret oretetics teeett! Pee te by TE OL Ry i Ay x Pa ae . FP ‘ ru Ne 4* Ped 4 oe i Wists i Men TT aARMRSAN a ee ee tbe eee od Sted Gs tS: ed adh 4 ‘ 7 : tH a tt ss Oe a es ee oteie ase The Climbers’ Park of Scafell Pike above the 3,000 feet contour, which Lord Leconfield presented in 1920 as a memorial to the dalesmen heroes of Cumberland, Westmor- land, and Lancashire. Beyond Scafell Pike there has been a further purchase ; the open space now includes the whole of Scafell with its creat rocks and the rugged Hollowstones, rising to the Mickledore Ridge. Whether this purchase movement will spread to other districts and fells remains to be seen. It is obvious that the freedom-loving public is out to accept any bargains offered by landowners, and is not waiting for possible Government Act or regulation for public access to the great wild lands. The central region of the fells—at the head of Langdale, the Duddon and Esk, Wasdale, Enner- dale, Buttermere, and Borrowdale—is incomparably glorious. It has many popular and well-used routes, such as Stye Head, Rossett Ghyll, Scarf Gap, and Black Sail summits. ‘There are, however, plenty of wild and and paths go to most of the solitary places where the foot of the rambler rarely treads. Access has to be footed from the dales level. As yet the Lake District is not cursed by the “mountain hut,” “electric lift,’ or other 128Soon te " * ei, e-4 a | i the *-* PUT iS Prue porte. M al pa eee oi ae + *;* a 14 - Pe od * be | > at ah Par 4:6 3° ry es: -t Byte 2 | ah a cL es 7 + ali 372" HF As Ps * + meer ert a ae J Fs ,% 4 7 bole Siaie ate tee " es t OCCT Pot Par het Ll Les ans ail Pass behind the tree. +* S yt yee: Moth +e @ @ & + ss lac ae + > JAD and | POO ek fy . Peete ith bietets 1 HI the centre, “tk Soaaad “e ++ tag , Let ak Vy Pht’ tee —_ ~ — — PJ 4 ”_ — J C S a i od Pra ‘ fa v WA on the right, Pillar Mountain t* i 4 tata i*,ege*k* Fr Pi ah thee > Oa et) + @iei,ei% ae erCra nos +) Fy i mG ) ay rae 2 ee Leen ~¢+ *F «& * 4 et i | bf et of bt) od i ha | -s** ae oe ot | Led ees ; sheet 7. Da | * 4 areca Le Pkd 1S [7 Ps pare ‘ell Mie Se sieehsi a | 4 e . PI * 7 Lead : rs ‘ Stuk I ear ers vae th i Se i a te hee he oe ee ae a ** 2 = ’ ‘ +24 6.#,.4 4+ ’ . : . - + a oe a oe * * a A ee, + ¢ + + * & © eS gk th agg dak tht hath ate ‘ alll sailed cee a ee al aie an eel ae Sn eee a cel ee eae cee etl: M 7 U8 Whaat bt Myre Ch re ee! oe * 1 ee aa \ et a*h4 Rit e a Ke Ga | 7 oo a “44 * . Ped ed a ote rt hy an) ye od tee each: oi ea a*)*,2 4 Pert td WAAL + '} a i * a3 He ye i =] a J eT arts bree a hse O16. Erte i. hd he ky | LT ares 6 epitope tr ea lt kee AST he BOC tr bee rar bre, Joe Le Ute Ss ed RRS won r mn ca toe 4,24 | 7. ee co } ee at bd | ’ C hs or iu v7 + b +e % + & se « J e*a*g*,? J Pee eae ae | i ' et pe St hare * +& + i * + $s med Pet he} ee Daan et be TT . + 4*4* re ry tt’ o 7. O Dalal bdea bat Peete tte ae ® eeeebe eee + 4) ee eg ye rm oC a ee ee as -* a me ‘ a or hy | 7 eae b a ‘ 7 * a 1The Climbers’ Park method of dodging the steep tramp from vale to peak. Our hills are really so near, so small, and so compact that the Swiss chalet-hotel idea is superfluous. ‘The most distant peak in the Lake Country is little over three hours from an excellent hotel, and nearer to good farm quarters. The view from Helvellyn may excel all others in breadth, colour, and variety, but it has nothing to compare with the rugged grandeur seen from Scafell Pike, Great Gable, and Great End. 'The first two view-points are fairly well known, but Great End is one of the “ peaks rarely ascended.” It is merely the northern outpost of a mighty ridge which includes Scafell Pike, the highest point in England. ‘The tourist path from Bor- rowdale and Langdale crosses east of the peak, over Esk Hause, and on to the ridge by the Esk Springs and Broad Crag. 'The summit cairn seems so near that people rarely take the trouble of walking across. ‘The climbers’ route from Borrow- dale to Scafell passes along a ledge 1,000 feet below the summit of Great End. Most parties, therefore, skip the ascent. The great riven northern face of the peak is much admired from below by all who walk from Stye Head to Esk Hause, but the great fans of loose scree are suffi- 129 I . a he : ee We yae ai _ Cor Wyte erer rr iG my r} PUM FRPP CSP rare Fes COL) Cara chee tt os HUTA, i an oe sets rhe es Ca es ee ee LTO CR DF at ets O rn) Phd it beet tbe Pee De | ote WOOT 4149) * ole OOTY yOOG oe mst jecetegats : PSPS CS Nr SSeS EET IR TS MIESMAA STON EN Te RS Inn MENT OTE RNS Coc iLaase 4 Sere tele thLebetediebeld tbitintelajariedd ‘ee > * he) are ote 4yror eee rr ; + bie ee Pee beh brarg roe ee een ale tisbibjeisit bei eediely “ Mi Per Sr Ore P or sit a sale ad Peed es vi Ty ole. t t, sel ches Hie} *.* * re + te .* 9 6 et detsttiad ad sledeboteraratitctitsectiece : Py i ’ ’ ” maT UH gaye FoR SUM PDE NCEE i rat ae eae rerer ; . = ~ ~ * * > — 4 - ps ; . i _ - . . oe yee treet eee worst rt tty ot jopebesta® RE TS ae eee Pater sd orbs tor SESE H SCPC ere et Seerer ere er peters reek, \\ sie =_ rr ee tt tt ee Jt? : , Ait ig tebely ead eceiap a asfe altindsiabeiebepeteiebiicetiagsPP trate heed +* ‘ SAL . 1 SR Ann Com Due od ba bd Oe Gee 5 Ve Vtsro Lei stare’ 2 ae rg Ne rg . ie “\" te Tis eres 0) r Pa te a FO | e7 Po ee ree Co A oats 4 e's6%e? i. ee « 4*,* be Me rd eed *e.+ ee Fs « be FL, ‘ pete o*; + rom OUR oat, *ge.ey*,f 4 a eit a + eae ] ee BE a * P r a ee ie We ee * eae bd + +4 ' . a*4-4*.", — ribet babe! es Hee ‘ rks nl rn . * 66. 4°1e* fa ee ese ores 7OCu ai"; fs * le | Cres ett fasticss efor ft Ae oG oa thor or - * a :e Cs +* * es LP 4 ae] Pad et bs $,* e1°44 he we bee ++, 05° ted aes wu rar | hyeet At Po , t's @ ~& Setter PRESSE tiiscthibtercer! eed ve oy ie to i Mt ss a J recrietnt: o74","i*,8 4 oh hes | +4 te Ped bd be oe PAPUA a ro ue ead Ut Sree ae ee be 8 P 4 4 § t+ aie aye tt AA ° te ee et ee be ee bd es " *,o 1% oC Ot We te be tr be had Pe os eee WERE GOOG: a Pleepepeqeenerrsy ii 4:44 me ts ig ‘ ae oe Dit Pe Ot Oe Se a be oe oe Oe e + —— a a ty io AT * LJ ‘ Ai sb racotatatet cast ae «4 * @ te oe ee ee ‘4 a “tris frristeteisieivte| =e 18"t af ae rs * .436,0,% re tr 7 a aad 0) 4 *[e54 a*,* ard eh eb big 2) 60; 4.6361010,6:47,9 o:8 410,90, 036 ++)* Y *iviesae oe a a | re + Pog | > - am tod nM Ta Lae oereresier rent PT ai¢ | thal SL rare pe eo) De rn * di*.4 r The Climbers’ Park cient to deter any ambition for closer acquaintance. Yet one has not seen the best mountain views in Lakeland without taking in also this great vision from Great End, looking down its savage gullies into the gulf of Borrowdale. It is more profound than the view from Helvellyn looking down to Red ‘Tarn. ‘There are two tarns in view from Great End, and both are admirably placed. Striding Edge is of course remarkable, but the whole view is by no means so rugged and vigorous as that from the Cumberland peak. I have always recommended climbing and touring folk alike to spare a half-hour on the return from Seafell Pike to climb Great End. It is a mere promenade up an easy slope if you turn just before reaching Esk Spring and follow up the grass and sedge. There are many other fine view-points in this National Park. From Honister Pass, on the Buttermere “ round,” you reach the ridge between Borrowdale and Buttermere quite easily, and wander over Brandreth to Green Gable, a “cub” divided by a deep but perfectly easy cleft from the Great one. Even in mist the route is distinct. The cross-traffic from Stye Head to Ennerdale is too light to beat out a path, and a wire fence 1s 130The Climbers’ Park an additional guide for the ascent. I have known persons to turn back because of the steep angle between the two Gables, but the going is really more comfortable than it looks from beneath. There is no danger of falling. As you rise it is apparent that the ridge of Great Gable is becom- ing narrower, and finally almost compressed. On the Ennerdale and Wasdale sides there are mighty cliffs, but the path easily avoids anything difficult and the cairn is reached in a short twenty minutes from the gap. Gables has been described as “ the finest mountain in Britain, either to see, to climb, or to look from.” Such triple virtues are rarely found in one peak. Toward Kirk Fell there is a fine triangle of descent, even wider, which drops into Beckhead. Continuing the ridge walk beyond, there is an easy wander to the top of Kirk Fell, a summit so strewn with equally high piles of stones that one has to consult the map to determine which is the proper mark. All round there is a splendid view—Pillar, Great Gable, Scafell at their best. I believe that finer rock scenery is visible from Kirk Fell than anywhere else, yet it is little famed among mountains. The ascent from Wasdale is too tedious to begin a day; Gable is always a better objective; at the 131 a r-{" U and a + La , id ° + a oa ce ne ee ee ee Oa oe ae _ Pre MPR ra a 4 ¢ ss Taha Se | Pa “ eS Ls ‘ ee ee ee 7 ™ ~- oF tte ees o . a i : ee oo — ee ee a DOOR tits , a t+ rf ee Pibivneiars it i Ml nt bata Meeps 2 Py ted g™i*)*24 eitidiniedes ft tg de ne ae ; ; * Crs re iM 26.4 $*.*ie 7 * *\*. 4 one ' - 4 : nl * Reape nea sinless acs' tities : ' +.*, ° re) an: bd a | sela'it el rr be STITT a? NOSE eee perc asscex tt irra rer aetyt) bear Mia Ft aaent * + «4 ++ ¢ tres Vt bee wrt Ct ie be Set : Le aGat em LAPP ar bee ROEM OM UeCrr eter iti scm Mit MAC ae veo | o 44,14 etre | ise er err aba oo eo iistebetetengeel OOOO 5 hi vee Tor Arif il ie FOO eb eet eT pee eet TE Roth ares OHMIC Nc Hr TOTT eR Te eater ee nts ee ee ee rw + na eheaebe bene Stee 4 rs s +,* Pe ee hs 7. 2.0, * aes + cst Ta; ro ‘t RRS ror Ps i: PRTUCTE VECO rf * + ot Sr te ot AT wy bid bot ek ele ee ‘ Sessa Oar ar PS tis fe HY hy | ei Pte a are Perel oh, ryt ot oo ae Helin ade iejapdalebetitebabetefabitieloisinuebepalsieleis es 77? es J ; cs ee ot te FathSe Par 4°.* ~ uO hae Poteet A 7 ee + + o a stents ts! s | Pog oa Pee be be ha * eet be Seba Jer aad beet ta be bat PE Ste Pe Od oe OT WOO sd Pe $id Gee oe BO PCS Ee er et ee Mea he im ass tbe ry Ta Os Py va, h*§*,0:050,6.6 6-6" oT tt) es + a | nd - vat . hehe be eA Aa od oa beer ut ek ‘ ba WOOCCUL ‘a area oe ore Owe beer eee: - wed) Pot Wt sd a oe * * *,?.4 WM yy ft Se AU. AU Tay ees Ort? es . Poe 2 ee or ta Aes e+ ,+ 4” rs 7 rt 4 Vth . eee id be beet Pi dhsk be 3a tet tr hee bere A PO ren re +t & ee Wire eee ta ee : tet * nt Wt CMC TT ec SPO PO Be hk BOT Cee oe eer ert thes Pt ee SC Ce oe \ Peree rte Pt ne he | Door. ar 4 ee of et bs 4 Hy + t-* + wufny a ss oe es. et | Pa oe | v4 | ee eh, «i+ *.4,0:0,4;4,4 4 4 / i" aaa aes oa =o ort ~ * Pp — ; eehebaendebeR Stee pepereece rechtaiatareabte tate lateral tec ene a Bt Dy + . ba a — ; af + id r 4 a ea re be tak ; ree) ht beet Oo CCU bt bd toe Lea PO ‘ * 4 b+ Boag a Ue bend Ga hot bE othe $ + 4 Ao Cis Ce Poot 8 og 2) a ‘ ore | Poe be | A o*.*.¢ Poe ee 20 Oe ee De ee Ce eee ee eres 4 bd yey et Oa ay Ort be ae Pe A ee + tr r The Climbers’ Park end of a day the chief interest is either dinner at Wasdale or the Stye Head track back to Borrow- dale. Let us go east from the National Park. ‘The expert hill-walker can be judged by a knowledge of Bowfell and Crinkle Crags. ‘The former should be a compulsory point in the day’s march from Langdale to Great End and Scafell Pike. It re- presents little extra labour, and on the return itis an actual improvement on the descent of Rossett Ghyll. Bowfell is not, however, a simple place ; here and there are protrusions of magnetic rock which play games with the compass needle. In mist it is easy enough to make a circle among the boulders or to descend into Eskdale or even reach Cockley Beck at the head of Duddon when the aim is Great Langdale. One of my best hill walks—I wish it were a frequent one—is from Esk Hause over the ridges to Bowfell, then by Crinkle Crags to Wrynose Pass, after an easy ramble from Wasdale or Borrowdale, in the first case by Greta Force, in the second from Grains Ghyll ; this makes a glorious after- noon. ‘There is quite a respectable tally of high peaks for your diary or correspondence. ‘Lhe views are at first toward Borrowdale, Derwent- 132The Climbers’ Park water, and Skiddaw, then into wild Eskdale and over the distant moors to Ravenglass Sands. Next Helvellyn becomes prominent as Borrowdale twists away, and then the rocky Langdale Pikes with the great lake of Windermere like a silver sword beyond broken wooden ridges. There are coves breaking down to the Esk torrent, and the great saw-teeth of the Scafells right opposite. I am convinced that the best view of this high and rough ridge is that seen from Bowfell across the culf of upper Eskdale. ‘The Pike o’ Blisco is a curious outlying mass which is worth half an hour or so while the ridge is being walked. ‘The out- crops of hematite here may or may not be the token of hidden mineral wealth. They are sufh- ciently noticeable to bring into existence wild-cat and disturbing schemes for the aggrandisement of company promoters. Between rumour and adver- tisement a good deal of money is wasted in every generation, but the miners have not yet arrived at Pike o’ Blisco. More than that need not be said. The ridge walk from the National Park toward Helvellyn is not greatly recommended. At Angle Tarn easy grass tracks go north-east to Stake Pass. Then for an hour you amble about a broad 133 a et ee rs . > . — Aa lite ages a i arn ry etn eed ilar 7 ——-— e F Ser css ~ oo ae’ % ee. SR ere ro Btu ee steno “ a eee eee nt Sean | POULIN C aoe Pete ad | Pesreee sts 5 e+ a, NM + Le ot? ert: if Sart esl raz ae ea ror bret ay roped otal | i: = ra oi. a . * + Lee. 6% aT Meir tetetneortoer nt beet da oe Bete Oot rhe) Ary oes BWM satya rt Stiobssay ee DOSY En mTetx Per Ea at AAO Sielelebendedsd ‘ 4 satetltt : - Thy VSO has Uy ‘ La +t Oo wry i Pott ot bt Pete Phe ae sieinisdabeletesndey 4 thin + aU eoreare at rn 7 um 41°." Tre th A ryt 9 5° Cra eet rity of * > Seen. a) a ae oe ; ca siee 6".° fini 48 PSHE Ss Ld + Nts t * Se ad * -~ f - ail oe 5 aon _ - a: + F aT + re : x r 7 ee - on Lh # b1616.52414'4 46 Nea Se: oThtatetets rhe) Cott ot “ Pee Le ba r id + "bia okt * , Ca ert ML Po Pe * 2 454°s are o.4.%6 +4 ee Pw wT corer ra * eta $s) he * * eft itetefet Oped enka alee teed: ett tet ecenteent) pdlalete)= + eae + te Poe PO a Seat we et ca ea at | ort rn ar avr re J n r' ' a Pe ‘ bd S ' aA aah i+ a oe Pr as a ‘4 ‘@ a6 roe. FIC OC APY thi Ped ba G oat Pt pe et cd ty My ia ig +4 at areas mere aaa ten) (MUA aren Ge ba ony oat ” ree eevee Mes Ga tae ba it ate ; : er rear et tt ba eae | bd bat) * * . * > J * * ia big a J al > sie ry obebistestal oe oe hee re hee Ms rorty atthe tears Pot tne bee om ie be be * bd Ne he! + Lhe SY o ‘ + * SESE) COP a or be bs i r ** as Ps 2 rs ee ,¢ Baik 4 Pf Stir ws é*ere Stbe the pu LL m+ whe inh oe re 1 Ls 0) Ad i N oa"s*. 8 > J ctereneresertgteteqeregi-terequtenteteteysty ‘ ete Tae He + a ci 4 + eu a*. Phi wl hae e,+ Pg t* 7 rf whit . at “4 ete’ - Oo ted a J 4 4 ope bie 4g * Pits Pt POt et tT oc a eu a et oC ‘ a vr noe Se Tee Per be te be eee be oe Por are: . veg Pd hd add bend Ps i WLLL tS) WOT RA AO Lun th oe mL et be | é be te a ot oe bas + © et pf Ot te eee t “% bt bebe IES by tert es eto yt ws | A 7 ro AP J a rs * OC the Fa ot prt ce rar te O°) 0 bié;0'6:67,° ew Soe ee re) Lm (a i*f ik we a 7 ot AG >a | ee ee | rane § +4 ee Pe) Por soe eee tr or er ar F rif se ete er ls erent beaks Baal Raed br hs et bee Dita) ieee ater we bee Leal br cya TRUER KH SI CNSR ERIN bt F , 4 A 014. 62 46h ” *i ts ae eres ++ + The Climbers’ Park moor, with plenty of breeze and uplift but no particular outlook, until you find Langdale Pikes as mere rock-tors on the southern edge of a plateau. If you have persevered so far it is worth while walking to Pike of Stickle, to Gimmer Crag, and to Harrison Stickle, merely to enjoy the downward glimpses. Pike of Stickle overlooks Mickleden, that thrice-glorious arm of Great Langdale. From Gimmer there is a better glimpse into Oxenden, which heads up behind the Band, and, in Hell Ghyll, has a fine waterfall in rainy weather. Harrison Stickle looks across to Pavey Ark, a fine cliff, as well as over the Windermere dales. I am quite aware that the mountain panorama from High White Stones (the long back- bone of grassland extending northward from Pavey Ark) is considered the best of its sort in the Lake Country. My objection is that one has to tolerate so much dullness to get there. And then the view is too distant to show the real glory of outline save through a field-glass. If you are com- pelled to pass from Grasmere to Borrowdale by far Kasedale, by all means wander up to left for the view. Beyond that I do not recommend a Visit to High White Stones. Further wanderings from the Langdales carries one to Grasmere, the 134 sa al a ee eeThe Climbers’ Park best point to aim for being Easedale Tarn. If you find the descent rather steep, do not hurry ; 1t 1s easy to discover a cross-ledge and pass to an easier route. 7 The rambler who is quartered in Langdale will work these eastern peaks. ‘here are hotels at Dungeon Ghyll and at Langdale village, and rooms are obtainable at most farms hereabout. It 1s, however, advisable to book in advance. Much ac- commodation is reserved year after year by regular visitors. The Langdale peaks are, of course, out of the way from Wasdale, and with the exception of Bowfell are hardly worth the pilgrimage. ‘The same also applies to Borrowdale. ‘The climber can find better employment in other directions. The Langdale group is not too easy of access from Coniston, but a fine walk may be made by Levers Water, along the path to Wrynose Pass, and over Crinkle Crags to Bowfell. There is a fair walk through Tilberthwaite to Little Langdale (where there is one or more wayside inns), and over Blea Tarn Moor to Dungeon Ghyll. From this point the ascent of the Pikes and of Pavey Ark is steep but not difficult. Most visitors are satisfied with the ascent of Harrison Stickle, but Pavey Ark should always be included in the excursion. 135 a i eT en - a a scent Ti i tment il il ig gmt citing. wi ane a 4 Fi! *)° * a yc at Ot) ie be t) *eee OC at Petirpeseeoe est F . ve tt; : its * perenne nee : 7 r a + * Ps ee | 4°, 7s Pag Pet > 2.1% tet) 2nd fini sacar athsecrbeasisratasest et atecaeael detacscebssentaecens beta test ecistits “ ] %, ’ A . * Cs { i eles telgpelaletptonibtetdfeteisscpandydetceceletedtinbepepba eet stithobohs eeeg bar Ce et et tot aor itet rt Fs Fe ‘ Nieledejetirbed eT bh ee biet ee tite “| 7 +1 ¢ 4 ry) **) Peed Mf Ot OF TE CC Peer see hee ee bf Beh Pete arate. Pp Fer yt of 5 i ertrecreet tinier MOM TUL rare) + LATFAINOUIN AALOT ve AICOOOOCUNE' ; a. Pe ees SF eef ott ** e:+ e 2°,*)% *)* eke erate tt i 7 eat Pek A " A 4)4 el ene Pat Oe bP Pe RHE ree et mem CUCU Souths ad "11," et ae rr * rer 2 Sie,b biachrb echeaterert Tee IITs Re Ter TE er ork Grae oe et ot ear eter or ed Me tars Pts - Pe * Par TT we at Tlie? . i e FE Mee ie ne tr eC Pats poanvere tte serss aYL bd bee | os “_> 9 a * Si6 rive ae era + A ‘Cee . +; ss he ‘ +O ‘+ ++ the Sth beta oa Get + . f ni ‘ Le | oe bw ata*he.4i a’? ,% ae + ry | 4 . ta Per or) " . 8 ON See be) b7 or ort Motte te ee Ag hae . at s * ** H a we $e Te e UN ba * . +s UG ithe pel ae és OBI SULA Hat AI a*at,* dnd fad Stee a J ae a7 ‘ OM od Seer ee Stier AION a ee . Pebtstee, rt ae a. » + o et wt ee a. Ps a i eo ei*{*.e 4:08 6 he | ) < bd +.6.6:b6,671% «© ht . Hie ear d bP? #0 g rs i) Rehr et + rt at Ss 7 * A , F - Y v TUN RNS Hi i i HERE - “hy | ek OF Pe rs + (+o) + 4.4) ¢ ©, aon ror - 6.8.5 +1 0.0 6 6) ote baba bb? bed Wy" vet a ge +,* + er + ** yaa, Ml at hte or Pe? an! . od iT is * wii AAs J be i «4+ 4 ge be tert bf Wl be Ge Wer Sone bel MM OE OEE Oe We be be Sehr et oe ee AAS OG OTC TOL et | : a7 at Me —e “re alee tins a ear bc hha 4 Pt ah el J -,* ds eres GCE: a ee vast a! bel es ha ha be 7 ae bed ASUS bed oe et rT nO au sapecae teeth th batt leds * Se hte beet +4 ae ejte}-jo'e a * Ms Oy Sy rhe 4 *.* 4 « bd ad eed tk be te Ce ee er er Le ee eee ae Pe OUR ANY S Pere ee. a Ph Sod eor a id dgsbebpiqactst lorcet repre perryrstsinietepeyd toto PS ete RRO E +459 ; a | oe Tt (gree. The Climbers’ Park The other ridge walks from the National Park are equally fine. The tourist may not find the Scafell direction particularly to his taste. Certainly an examination of the great cliffs which overhang the Mickledore chasm is far more exciting than pleasant. There are two or three climbers’ routes from the Mickledore Ridge, but these are not advisable. It is better to turn down the screes toward Wasdale and climb back into the great gallery of Lord’s Rake. The struggle up this loose scree 1s laborious, but the glimpse into the recess of mighty Deep Ghyll is more than recompense. Lord's Rake is really a rift across the rocks of Scafell. It rises and falls, rises and falls again, and at the third rise there is an easy clamber which leads to the left up to Scafell cairn. Any attempt to assail the rocks of Scafell front is foolish. Glaramara should be a splendid ridge route from Esk Hause northward, but somehow it is not. At least, that is my opinion, but many people do not agree. ‘he hill is covered with short knots of rock and is tedious wandering, even though you should have the day to spare. Lhe Borrowdale end of the mountain is broken into two or three buttresses with pretty dells between, but even these are better visited from 130The Climbers’ Park the dale. The beauty ends before they reach the open mountain. On the western route we ended our wanderings over the National Park at Kirk Fell above Wast- water. It is along march forward to the Pillar Mountain and to the Pillar Rock, that Mecca of orthodox climbers. The best view of this outcrop is from the High Level route, the starting-point for which is a big cairn next the wire fence, about ten minutes beyond Black Sail Pass. The novice is at a disadvantage, for the track swings along steep rock slopes with great gaps below. It is better to persist to the top of Pillar Mountain, and thence look down on the famous “‘ Stone.” The Pillar is really the last great rock mountain, but from Wasdale Head there is a wonderful walk, which begins at Beckhead between Great Gable and Kirkfell, or better at Black Sail Head, goes over Pillar, then by Red Pike to Yewbarrow. The mountains named are really undulations in a wonderfully easy walk. The ascent of Stirrup Crag on to Yewbarrow, if conscientiously taken, is awkward, It is better to swing down the steep but quite safe scree to the left and to descend into Mosedale, or a right-hand turn will take you to Bowderdale, a prettier walk in my opinion, with 137 ee oe ee ee le ee ee ee ae a el tae a ae ee ee a, .* ‘et mL Vie = ie ——z i? 'e a : ~ — To Ma . a Rw ae. + an SERRE + he ba? > = li. * bd ’ ‘ela “de: a enema mina cae inRiaain allt emormeed chat) ttt LJ ee eS ‘Poe tent tr te a Se +4616 at MO iirircor Ae ye fepesdpipie ht leipietilet ot Th AP 4 i7.°,? + Pg es aru POCO EARROTEI, RANE a oot er NS or : i re es bP es oT? ' he eg HSPSP MAEM WORST UCR ant UR EEST TICS U REST BT ETH ESSIEN Dead De 4 *)*\e He . ipesrerersrar ery TL war ce eh Pog be ae , AFT; OES + Ped beer tite tet ot a terete POMOM Gra oc bore] «+ 4 Fs + et titen tes oat ie Phere akg or 771%) + ee rls + <) Rohe od moot isles Qt re a Oar itarie Seta ‘wwe a tree Bet et Laie eiins th el oot oe oe eee Par ek eh a bee 7 es dhe af Oe ie reek h ake OT ot et ot 7s at ob gets 4) ” : ao ett Behe ReRheE PE eee OWS 7 ry '? eritine! a 4 me —— : = — : a he Pe eee ee POC seat ee oe ~ Pt ere ; alt ye erate tlle’ > i rm ate Fett be UM tet eens trees oy[;:. oe Va oe SSNS a 7 a Port rouut “i i os tot Me Aa BRE Shey ‘ ** Lt ht hae ee be | : A Ce seer) ry aees * oe @ *4* 4 & & ee a ne +44 Boag? a. a a CS a ud bebe i 7) #6 ‘ ; aay ot 7 . 7 rk yor Fc Sy a LI a+ 4.04 Pie + 4 Se re 4 et Pe * “+ s ‘ + a A i. oe a ee oni %.0. 6 @ oP ata ata® 9 bg On | b> S Y mr r " SETReTeTe Tee te geetente eT be * | Poet 4 be ae Oe oe Pe eat et Pt . a a oC M Baten otot Mh * + be rs ares Atte et i AAAS a ec ‘ Feo Md oe + Ht ru tet Sl " rs * tee 4 bar bared ed ba bd el ET eis ain bt eee | Aa " ont Fi wha. 44° nt se ithe eee US Rita ree ee et ee P| . > a ‘ee . o LJ wr) trite PASC + + . o,4.6,0-9 ba + a Pre edt nt ns ates + * EW ben 4 UU . a. es ’ or + * rts by bd a ae’ Via, *- i ba ba be Se weet =i . ded . nM Ss ediedl 210% | i oe et 7 en oe 4 I aed by ba orb eat Ot Oe he ates | te Gi he W trs te “th é*e fete gt Ot Re eh AG bt eee Por) io eine hie & * edad a r.* “ =-+ ri a 5 Pd ~* 3 ry + z . o a J ad ae eo a “ a ze r — *-¢ es _ * —- — - ss Poe Ww Oe 00 or Or be Sr Oe & «4,4 @ Cl BS am ; 4 ee ho Roe Hw |, a 4 a. a; Sie ea a ee ol i i.) ee. sé 4 " ’ 7 ia | * *s4 The Climbers’ Park a fine view of the Screes instead of Scafell, but with the drawback that you have a road walk back to Wasdale Head. In the direction of Buttermere (from Brandreth) there is a fine walk, but it is more usual to descend to the valley through Warnscale, and to give a clear day to the bold fells, High Crag, High Stile, and Red Pike, which stand along the western shore of the lake. There is an excellent tour out- ward from the Gable Range to Keswick, descending gradually. From Brandreth there is a descent to Honister Pass, then the path follows the ridge to the summit of Dalehead, and one wanders along a narrow ridge, with Borrowdale on one side and Newlands on the other. Finally this becomes Maiden Moor, and peters out as Catbells, from which you descend to the shore of Derwentwater, opposite Keswick and within reach of the motor- boats.CHAPTER IX DALESMEN’S SPORTS: WRESTLING, HOUND-TRAILING, GUIDES’ RACE, POLE-JUMPING, &C. ROM March to mid-August the farmer, flock- master, wood-cutter, and shepherd among the fells has a strenuous time. After the hay has been housed, however, and the flock has been clipped, there is leisure for sport. For weeks the farm and sheep walk need no more than morning's attention, and work in the woods is practically at a standstill until autumn. At this season every dale arranges something in the way of sports, and there is a good deal of keen competition in hound trail, fell-running, wrestling, and sheep-dog trials. Here and there some local committee offers prizes for the old-fashioned pole-leap, but exponents of that graceful art are few and poor of quality. We have not the enthusiasm which greeted ‘Tom Ray of Ulverston or R. D. Dickinson of Winster, champions who could top the bar at record heights. ‘There is no mistake about hound-trailing keen- ness. Gambling on the hounds has grown into a 139 gk gl a A a a ee el ek ell et De ee ee eee ee ee ee ee ee oe ‘ a 2 i : % sd + « 2 re oa z Sita “a d a or) th 9» — eg *- rs iC i P| UT ore ALT be yt : et i - PT. or’ eo hi S44 +e & “Fr wu + tielt ‘ ra - * @i¢ " ea ivbapcededy " ees Sar 7 A bt tty Oe + ore TI ert eh erty a bi [xr rer srer ir ori rs NE POS Oe atitlé i* Gcestexte rete rere 5 eet Pye | ponte) ie rt J PDE NED Sea FDU Or a 4 be ea . pepSeT er th + *)# aa 4 4tis H inher ce aA Re EA Rte HOODOO Peer | CRU CiPerrt brite rpiecteas bet otrens Bath yeh Ss ate Phd bf bt he +? hd omy et Pete oe Set eR eere ih siyaps Fr + Ory Hy Tt oreo + aii - Cerner oom mri * 7 ~ r: Ps dd + * -. , . re ‘t SSR MEME CT tote eee ee eT eee See Hee Peart Merete eee Ce Via et ele eiese t Otel ese gt lest BDU ea Mn tee re OU aS a een aloe +. S45 am = - *; Sl “eh bie a? rr ote Cer orerwr tf a) + + ar *,% *.4 bt Bt tes 4 oe eh. ree Lr he Se Peek tat Pts Fhe os brash eh ee +Re . 4 ee aang Nia yey Na ry io | ee a * 7 ut eee tae oe ‘ af,*. 4 4 a8 A AIT Ore a*,*. 6147)", 0.4' 6 et a oe ee mbetiqerericn Tea! “ a A . D Wa Ltt bee eee ee SS ++ ry * + “8 ot i We hit ORL AI iota be | rat hie i‘ 4 bi CTY ie by pe * C Pe La Sth Lo a atte? toe ae be ft tan Oe Lt ry ro 4 Prt A et eT a 4 ty | - a AA oor me WO Le ee art 4 Ae a t . a on * * J Ta chicane tstente egret: ! oan rere Seats OF Peretrte ehh *,>)5 MWY + bd bee 4 “ * 4} es hae t ms . ava* 6.8.5 “bat TOC aeaeatgty * Ui oreo atene xe, Pod tat eC pcr art bet is eat Pe a CMrAAY a * an | a Por te be. ees D Ser ake er: re ore we A Sr et "| oe 4 . errersarrrr eed oe beer a ° ee oe bt Lk bee eee a Poe) er oe is %*, * ng be tt | a oe é.0ab,e 4° er eae ae it be er m i+] Sh Ae A 4 Go bap tie te — re. abet tot ty hs Sa ad ren ‘4 ‘ey e$*#t*-e ee toe oe oe StS bd by be be eb AOC oor Ar a! 5 * PY 7 Ve 4 o,o,6:0 4 6°e°b*a"e 71°. * A UN se Pd ot ed Sy Ta “EET EAT Yea fetefs epee jie ee ti tatrtadelet pete tr etgey sper ry} ae ey Wy rerum yeaeSd x nn Ne bbe #19, 6,4 i ¥ To a. tr tat UAT bees he Lb aod es + Speer be’ Por ye a a o “ ws ee if eats ed a bg Se be oe he SOE Ot OE PL ey | BS | rl The Dalesmen’s Sports positive craze. The mimic fox-chase along the rough hillside has become a veritable “ Derby,” with huge financial interests on the field and away in distant villages. Whether this leads to purity of sport is a question—it leads to fortunes for the bookies when a score dogs start out at the proclaimed price “‘ evens on the field.” I have no taste for gambling; even a hound starting at 6 to 1 “win or a place,” bearing my old pen-name of ** Dalesman,” failed to draw half-a-crown out of my pocket. ‘The good creature ran third, so that [ should have had something to draw. he trail of aniseed is run by a couple of sturdy youths who know every trick of the countryside. he distance varies from six to eight miles, and the run must be completed in forty minutes. A short race may lead to a declaration of “ no trail,” and the same verdict may be give against a course which has taken too long. ‘The trail-runners must have a fine sense of distance and be a bit generous about the heights to which they may climb. On a day of bad travel the racing pack may rise among the clouds, and some of them are sure to lose the scent. In this case there comes dire trouble. Half the pack “hunting heel” raises a howl of protest from those who have staked their 140The Dalesmen’s Sports bawbees on some blunderer. Equally enraged is the crowd when some favourite declines to take the first ditch outside the starting ground. ‘There are yells, “ Chuck it in,” and I remember one Amazon essaying the task. She mistook her footing on a rotten bank, and went down with her hound into a muddy bath. Then there was joy among the spectators. 'The hound, however, took the hint conveyed by its dishevelled mistress and streaked like lightning after the disappearing pack. I wish I could add that it won the race, but the hound flinched back at the last fence because—possibly— its mistress with the water-soaked costume was waiting beyond. It finished second, after a eruelling run. There is something splendid and _ picturesque about the hound trail. It is exciting, too. ‘The crowd gathers round the yelling hounds as the trail-runner comes near the end of his journey. At a word from the starter the pack is let loose and is away, a ripple of black and _ white, brown, lemon, and tan, on its journey. In a minute they are still running as though a sheet might cover them, over the hedge, round a corner of rock, and into a hidden fold of the fells. Ina few minutes there is a roar—some keen-visioned 141 ee ee, ee ee ee ee ee “ot a ee oe ot oe ee oe ae rs ee varie Uo ree WR eet erat cs Oy ey . ee yf Pr er he i Gat Ot 4°.*, 719 e1 Va Et od oe Ae oe PERSP CIUION by by Gt br or 4 aah oe Oe he Oe OS oy pOOER Weyecheoeoasey PHOEBE M MoE HPODUR Poet Sr SesesePesoe M ReSeTE RTT Pot ; ae, ee bees DED Oo Seo hey youl ' P o4 o.* f eth Th eet 4 ret diegerne:® i. C PrN PORT CRT ens aren raise MOOT Oot Sa 7 att at) ar ? z prores Fite ta 2. hl aia at \* beh ks C; 7 ei ROOT o* : = “ : io). eororee POC . Ot *\° Por) + P be Sd Mt Por H my petot Sesahpent psu a ee pe SeACSCAUM Car Mea Pyrat ne Hepes a ito Pvt tae ea rer oP a eet ei beererG , Ps terns i! Pei ye Ph yest Eee NRE Ye) ee i a Or >5¢,? SOT eat RON rot wi GIS bee SLAP, Sas FA ry ret re it So SO Saree Tere CHCNR IC IUICIC ENT ECS St Te = P 5 pur i Pe erie Py aro Poe: sé ry! $i Pe er trr i = , i. eee eres‘ La! Steer nue a | ‘ a ASR ert rai 4*;,* ba ' a “ rrr? a ae a * . Py 2680 tae Oe 9 ora oe ee 4 a . Oot teas A ‘ ‘— * ™ . pra SSrr RECT NN ICN OT NM TTT a+ Pa vant ag ef “ttt +4 4 ae) *ie,% 4 7 OW be Peged at SU i Beet ie | Te) AL : «a4 a + i a OL yh ty r " it) hy | a ‘ Ar 7 Pele pepar + 4 P ‘ Fl rt we bar bd te STITT Ot oe + SU et PT Ar * nd * * , APOC r or Wh art 7 TA Ce +i x bates ac blacateececs ++ eae pS oe Poe eo ee Ee De fe tek ot bee Oh ar + 4 o,¢ ihc) ’ } at rte og | fi a -1 019) a - aebtoy' he Te ye | be eed a ahs “| oot be betes | ae te aor ee ree + : CJ A ee Pet + er a et oe Me Oe re ee a * * * Po Pe +4 Pe othe oT ye oe es ett or rt ‘ Prior: ? ‘ p Ca oy ig | 4 a ee Pe Oe wee +" - rn - ee * an 4 * = 4 ‘ of . es + Ps oT et * * + 4 i ba a i + Poe bt ot bt bs e444 6 4°," oietal, ret re rs ood be AC s ore Pad ey Pp A ta Jn) ea P re a he Nast + * PY +4 J a. * * ere hee et at et A of et oe a PO Maer tt Ot he be be OOo bere igtt 4%, 14 48 die be be att « Cot alba Me wo: “ rhs bd fod we Lar et hg ww we Pe eer OC POT Ye eee bd rs * Poe wie ot 3 eeu bf tad bo ee | M+ a he et ‘ ic iu 4 obs or ! + a + At iy | Dd t ey LJ The Dalesmen’s Sports fellow has seen the leading rounds topping a distant wall and climbing the brackens of Nab sear. Up, up, they labour—the glasses can only show the steady drive of the chase. Then, just below the sky-line the trail turns east and contours the high slope. ‘To the eye there are mere dots of white gliding along, with here and there other dots bolting in frantic haste sheep which do not like passing dogs. Then round a big knott they stream, to be visible for a moment or two on scree, now descending rapidly to the upper dale. The raucous voices of the gamblers come again to the fore. ‘There are men willing to give and take odds during a hound trail. ‘“'They’re off” does not finish the chance of making a harvest of coin. The minutes pass: the calls of the ring die out from mere inanition. No one cares for the bet: the race is the thing once more. The course-wise folks turn their glasses on the point on the near sky-line where the trailer came into view. But the vagaries of wind and weather on even an aniseed scent are amazing. One may watch for the leading hound to come over a certain corner of wall, and lose the picture of half a dozen streaming thirty yards to the left. But the first is hailed by unmistakable yells. A long-continued raucous 142= 2 oe ee os ee ee le ee ee ee ee ee ee ee ee 2 oe The Dalesmen’s Sports clamour is rent by the whistles of trainers as they scream and shout for the hounds to increase speed for the last lap home. Some hounds are trained to run toward the first shriek of the crowd. Others are just as successful when keeping their noses to the scent and following it home. ‘The latter class make the fewest mistakes on a day of wind and bad hearing. Before this time the judge has placed his two flags to mark the finish and takes up his place. Behind him are the “catchers.” As the judge gives his verdict on each hound, this official is ex- pected to keep an eye on the creature, run out, and if possible capture it. He must never allow his attention to pass from the hound, and be sure of its identification no matter how many persons and other dogs crowd across the path. At a certain distance beyond the judge’s flag trainers and owners are awaiting the in-coming hounds. ‘The racing creatures never slacken pace until they are within reach of the waiting collars and of the favourite tit-bit (often really a bit high- scented) which the owner has in reserve. Some- times it happens that the position of hounds changes after the judge has been passed. ‘Then the catchers have to be ultra-careful. I have seen 143 Sy SS el el es oe adh Mee oe oe Po eal. ao Pyne i . “as = aS + < - a * 08 ee ——————e a A i il a acca Ait cel ne emacs se A a oe ee oe ee ae a TaN hs i] eee of hye a * + A ’ nx CT Saat oY i ++ ots le Set OT Pi Peat ote rs art , “4 e+ @ ej*+ te 4 e714 bd ; aa bi Ais on fer coes raat eH TS tee ie @ 1P)* Fie ele + * * rs miter ar MTC S TCTs 1) ohedi.? tt bie or a 4 + hg hd eprserorts os r Q * 4 * + HoT Woe MAPURE eehe t ot yr rr 424 @ 4 ¢ x, or e+ @% IT ST iaebegendebebetieng-t my ae Pas Ste .* + yet rt ts ST UOtt ares be EPSON PR Go : + Tee + Le ad ST oa | Cote hd t ae RSH ASCO pr Starr es ft ptm be ; ie and F isiaababattieisisids *,*\ 24." Pet tg - * 4 * + & ¢ &4 4 4 ri Ags Hi 7 tebe este +4 A ihe ty Sy ioe ei at: a a ie ed bP, et a arr ae e+ MOD ero t eet 7 Meet = a sf ei! iy tere yt Perel MOP ratat ar 7 ee a eit Hin, sa seta digleiale ea cro treeeeT\ os *,4 "4 Ad va ba bn i aa oe ye ; Oreo ROU 70 At a A i 1 sh y | Pt 7% ale ret 4 We ne pentose ; a eh th yt _ YH Ma terre df f Fl Wy ha! + x ‘ rr + 4 + RR ss Co he ba : Ci cs rae tte arth? 0.6 . oe be eae te | te be SP toe of ee ye bat i " roe rf ePaetaege et a4 Pegs ot, ba wae" ton Mer 5 OR ot 5s ao we Pt or ttt wt bet A I. 4h; ewe rn i bel tee ‘ a POC) Cra er Sry! ‘ + ot oe} #656 8 4's Pet Pat be oes Pep bo tr ort a “3 a*,* o BRENT RAO. ae ed rerhkh 4 i s ’ i J 4,4 * * Vi oe he) ee md Gabe we oe ied of gf ’ bd tt eet he eee * 4 ,% 4.4.42 8 bie a Par ey Were @ er RT AAr I GAT oe See et or oe: rs : r srerererereytittet ad a oe *h ee he ‘ A : C7. i . y Wye tie + + + rn r Oy arse tr iO oe be etes bee Ot ot te bees ls *) iti — * CRIT | es or ‘Phas (a ~~. =) hd PSrGeeat SNL He Aprpdeteisde [spas . i vel ys fe OT i tr Lae .° ud ‘ee os ok, +4 be y* (e+ +6 a oe | . * nara a e* 46 Ni Sr erate PL iin} i $4 4 0 4) 8 4 6) # O14 OL ele 6 ee 6 4) % #,*. 4,4 6 ee | +4 gs iy : ta Pe | ed #3} ‘ hy eae oe 1a be : whale, a ++ « ‘ t + 4 & * aac A if tg | nee ery . fa a. i 4 20.6. « he Fie « be + + - a ‘ bt She GOT Do beh PR ha : Oe etn wie tt Ay Crotty bf Otte Py at} i La eh The Dalesmen’s Sports a dozen hounds race up the last field together ina mass, and the final sorting out was more than slightly difficult. Judges may be fallible beings in other sports, but their verdicts on the huatid: trailing course must never be impugned, The hounds used in these swift mimic races are of the fell-pack type. ‘They must have creat power and stamina to win through the rough countrysides chosen for the trails. Here and there one finds an entry where, to the ordinary foxhound type, has been added more than a suspicion of old English bloodhound for the nose, and another with a look of the greyhound in its slender physique. ‘This aims, of course, at greater pace. Queer out-crosses have been used among trail - hounds. An experiment with Rudsion retriever was particularly disastrous. Hounds from each litter developed a taste for live mutton and had to be destroyed. The ancient trail- hound was a mountain foxhound as well. It could be trusted to hunt the fox in any company. The trail-hound of to- day is, however, a specialised type. Animals used in the sport are no longer integral possessions of the mountain packs. iar has fhe something of special breeding as well as of special training. 1444 ‘ ny tr ints! an * si a en ELIT tT hw ts bet Por or eat V7 a uy aj st L > = vr eahats a. | le 47%, ie " ak & ee 7 _ Oe “e+ + UC . otra 7 J tak Fe Ste et NAP rte BITES a ot a or Nese: * hes a ce a : eh by roe 4! tetetegat : a] Mt oe i oe , Fes) se te, 4* #.*,* + & eM trots yori J x HN eh e* ri or 4 Cd i? ci si ks ee amt atpeoge rors eS oT of A ae oy Th aie it ountry views, in Summer gay With crimson heather. erat | etree * 4 * ¢.4& a ee ypical Lake C + Py 4 rrr, ae + ad of the ty Tre a One c aa re *, &.4 2'¢ reer eee peee See “ S a Pam a are Ths a - .* 4 es mv re J had . +4 MI 2 LOOT) et nea a +a | * Pt 2 eo Lea Conk Por rare ee Si ee ** 4 oreo ro) ne ie * v “te a a e / * ~ > Sane ee = et ee : es | ee ee ee ee Ae ns dee ee | ee ee 0 ee ee ee ee ee ie ed . tg o aos " les - ~- nat lng * >-2-9 i a * a " . ue = —— ee *r + + #* + | on a el ae de Ps = = ’ ~ = ra Sl oh a eh oe Dn a ee ee ae a ae a Ae alee li ae el oe ae ae ae Ce ee ee ee - a } on a th ge eS AAA ee MPS 28 Pe PH APATITE TT LL Dente ene SS ee eee Ce Oo ~*+** ee ee ee ee ee ls etal tolls. ares Pd fj ey er Fad ded od ee tt be oe ie ee ee Oe et ek ee eee ee ed ober dh hada ha kala eh ggieegtcial sh ci Aetha gigh sieht Aad apg ett ng Pi he Oe POSTE At ~ pig d pe 5 ~ * - Pe hot age tee ee ee ene eee eee ee ee ee ie ot ool tae, atin a ae tee ee i te ee american teint adit deat teat neti din de ie ine ial dealin didi i Stadia ass aia Pe? el a atinA . ‘ # + i BJ Lt a oe | .' 7 od bg 7) Vi : | he to J as 2. AWS HANS hanes eu ae &¢ t«* ‘ a | et a RU ' 2 at al | o"4"5* ott fee Saal . re Oe i *4*a* Pe ‘a * ee 7 *< . * + a Rhee 7 a *\¢ aL i: ta bd ba ba * ee ed *ee es e484 + a4 ero * + A a ad oJ * ote” + an) 4 sl ki ro ot Gee 4* ‘i id Broa ‘4 rats por | Por Ped 7 oe J a 7 * : a ee | ah hae be | 7 Ps ” hy bes a as rn) eet . eh Ee be vaiaah hee ayy re +,4,474.6 * &% F’ een . ‘e+ ee © a | MULL *4 t* eet ertitety 7 ia oe a te or 7 4 fed , * a) be Cntae el reee Seote bree | 50.6.6 4 6°6 LAS | pg | , a 29> Sart! . 4*4* a ot ry rehearse oe LID Fark (Me et ey OT bat a a be ** a ee ata os Schr Ofte _ pelt loerestorerteteereris Werte nt hehe wer tryin ot yr ttt 2 oe er. re 7 ee Ph | Ps uly ri 7 " ++ s“*eiet 3 J ’ + . + a Ui +The Dalesmen’s Sports Wrestling as seen in the Lake Country is alto- gether different in style from the exhibitions of Lancashire ‘“ catch-as-catch-can ” or the Cornish “hug.” ‘The competitors must start on fairly equal terms. ‘The grip is “ over and under” the shoulders with the arms, “lug to lug” with the ears. ‘lhe victor is the one who can force any part of his opponent's body to the earth. It does not need a complete downfall like the Lancashire folk use. ‘I'his rule gives some pretty lively work. There is no grubbing about “on the mat” for half an hour because the upper person cannot roll the other from a peaceful repose on his back. George Steadman, the giant champion of other days, once showed this trick to perfection. A great Greek wrestler was present at Grasmere sports, and there was a desire that he should show off his paces before the nobility and quality of the North. But he would not tackle the native fellows with their bear-like hugs and terrible chips and twists. Andreas did not like the look of a good cross-buttock with its shattering bump on mother earth. He offered to compete in his own style, which had to be explained to the native wrestlers. George Steadman, after hearing that victory could only be secured when both shoulders touched the 145 K . a A yi ‘ teks, , / CJ ee eee ‘Tt fie ws bes, —_ 7 +rocae tf he PO TO Ee te **#eee ++ hy and es er " * be M %: q Pens On Toran evoner ders see Mee een prey ee a finite ait " eee ieee mete RSS FR HMO er cas rem eT at WTS * 7 Fh dotardebsdot-t-4-} 3 a re EET a besti-bibie ry os SOSH Se yi *a ie die 4 bale Oe hale *.¢@: 4°. Tat * . 7 .e4. | ohrhsieinistedeisietedes OTC os | ; 7 .* rot pee ast Pirate a4 ei ’ we or ret abe Gd be nye a ee ed +14 2 * Lae 2 hs jeleisity ee tat . PEIERT Peete ire) by a " ae = u = . er) = Fs 7. i ST } 7 et Padad ood os eteak’ be oth ora Te Thre LTTE Tt ai eb eae elal tie etattereca eo oicit] Ce eh te tle 4 hole te © Lilt a la aie a eral} O.tgTere ect? ar) eC it} ey —— : try Or itt: th S 7 PERS aR Toren rR COUN ous Saat eer ad inant zs - *4 : i. c ‘ ‘hey Ire x. Psdhd a « ' + Q ytd ! + a, i itt ie a nL HEY (Sey er ton * Pe Cte ab et 1% eTsT tit i yy a 7 ‘ + ‘ oo y ; <7 et Pe * ae | Pred ee Od 34 3 . ‘ Mt! * ‘ ss - ++ Pe + b+ die 54°,% 4 4°4* - o*y et bt et tet ta be ae | a a ‘+ ee rt EGS ‘, te! ++ Seber Fa ead Diath id rte * 0 a ets ta* stat oe ath areas Pr et Corie? 1 oO Pores Ue beh ae oe or or Wii Ww oe rs, Fe bebe | Pa aa + +e. 4% 4 ry es ee oe rs a) ry r tet Mite Ott ier ‘ afi eh | Porta tbe As * Poe be be | ‘ i ee a a ee rp rs . ati ot at ‘ Telesyn ts 4 ‘ a7 Ad Motes u LOL Peery ae Lay PA * ; AML vu: ee ie AAD, ri 7 t : ‘ “tetera 7 : A Pog Sit be be kt be EP Batre MO he ee cor erat or am Ota wer * cf ed betes eed OT Pe eS LUT Terre Tr rel Pee fy eth 4 he Fi i) e+ 47's A f SI * Pe ere oe Se | Pee eh eet Pi LP oerd bd et tae ee bl bw le | deer o. 6 46:8 4 % COP? Ce Pert ere ley by hes as . hy | oe : aoe. eons FS eee * + be wt et te re ror . te +. Jets fa feist! “ole Tetep epee ttt] - * * ria ww td *s ae PSS SOR) C0 GUO ; yer ee ee he ad | dee | ot ee ey ein ee 7 _ . wee . oper tt dE BeSR OG . 7 * oy oy PE SE Pte ESL PT ete Ps ry + va ¢ hy a! Ft Ps ; ade ee ai + aba o port re) + i. J ‘ if BS AiO ioe eee ig ap a A 4 oe bd be H \ rl he ee is , ; LILO Re, “ee > ie al , oe ee Be ee a a al The Dalesmen’s Sports sod, took on the job. And a rare game it was. Andreas tackled the twenty-stone man from Brough, who promptly went to earth—on his tummy with arms and legs stretched out like a great spider in decorated trews. Andreas tried to lift a leg, an arm, but George kept still. He lay there for five minutes, his face grinning this way and that at the perplexed champion. ‘The whole company waited for the next move. ‘Then every- one went into shrieks of laughter as a calm, loud voice spoke from the crowd : “Now, Andra, owd lad, thou’s got it; what's thou gaen’ ta dea wi’ it?” ‘he Greek gave up the puzzle, and George rose with a great and spreading grin. That little ex- position of land-grubbing had placed £5 in his pocket. The guides’ or fell race is still a great feature at Grasmere sports, though it does not arouse the old-time dales enthusiasm. ‘The return of the victor used to be marked by some pretty (and harmless) local bickering. Keswick showed its frantic delight when Dalzell ran home; Grasmere roused its old memories of defiance when Tom Taylor was victor; Shap and Penrith hectored everybody when a Conchie led the way. ‘There 146Sa tee a ee Se Se The Dalesmen’s Sports were giants in those days; some of our fell-runners developed into champions on the professional running track. There are no mountain “ guides” now. It is fifty years since the silver flask ceased to be a trophy of victory. Most entrants, say the critics, are mere cross-country runners who have motored up from their outside parishes, and know nothing of route-finding through bracken, rock, and scree. “It's only straight out-and-back anyway,” say the competitors with truth. There is no hidden trappy ground as there used to be in very early days of fell-running, when the course was laid to the very summit of Silver How, and to lose the faint way meant the loss of the prize. The quickest route from the old ground at Pavement End needed some finding. Personally I think fell-racing would gain some- thing in interest if the route was changed each year. So many people stroll to the top of Butter Crags during the summer that the way is trodden and easy to follow. In defence of the modern runner, let it be said that he is capable of record times. Of the pack which faces the starter every one is a trier, and capable of rounding Butter Crags less than a 147 a hd ee ee ee ee ee ee ed Ce eee ne ee et eee * wi ‘Whe bd MOOCH OT re ; ate 1 nO ah. i a a + +4 tbe 7 Pers Le ari rte Peat bd > Pitvat Ria rae eer rasta | ry Se a 2 4 phe See | ' yore penne Pest art peie ts vebebioteher ’ Fa rs Lo | Aft fy A Stet Te. eee oS rr if ig ba Ct or Cea ft ODS elated tiedbbesayseay aids dettg HPYSe oe mM tn A i Notre #ie Saree iat a ct" * eats ythrre ropes u ee FS a a * ar et SUT rt etek be * Peg te Tt) OOOO HOC Pet tte) a he Sahat isirinidiebeinteiig rls, Fa dh he A teisie a = * sa . a . , : rt A e peek GR; ‘4 Culley + SS SAE ESR TRE RUM YCOLHE RY FOE WOT BE EPS IDENT HTT BETTER RRS DERE Re a eatin: rP sere ti tatile We tyd plelere B14) ot 010. 8°65 47 athe! aT FT ESE i eater Aleiatebel stot = aor wpehatehat tie anieidd athe SFC RNE San ere iN ce TC NT ete ne ciU Cex ising =e > + ‘3 " 1 eee ee by | rn H + er hd bd : | 4 a*,* + 475,82 6 . in eo | a oe ’ a er wt U ° -— ‘ r b + rot ot h¢ wh eet The Dalesmen’s Sports minute slower than the winner. In the old days not half the entrants were serious or capable runners. The pace at which the mountain side is climbed is a marvel. ‘The men scarcely lose the half-trot Lite os be | ety . rt at he aM os ‘ i bra a att er! 4b * > oo + a*y* POU t ee hd ox i by 4 +48 big SO Ce ty BIE Ott be 4 ooo at AA Lk a bl arth ‘ abtte LO on 8 isi os " F . +s 7 except in very rocky ground. ‘The descent is breakneck: it is a mad gallop down to the dale, and sometimes victory has to be defended in the last few vards. There is no running contest so punishing as this fell race with 1,500 feet of ascent and descent of rough country to be rushed mr % : Senta OG rs a Pa La bf La oi 64" ‘+ as ty oO he Sy Ped fe + a Sf teh Ld 5 + 2° + 4 soled a ND Potac oh Cet ee eae be ee tT ew Ot Ste ‘ a *,6.6 * * Pie > Chet We babe e oa al. Yt SypLgrsk Chea a : ‘ Le Pete + ale ‘ ; 0 a within fifteen or sixteen minutes. The greatest fell races are held at Keswick (where Latrigg is climbed at high speed), Pooley Bridge (where an easier incline to Swarthfell is marked). Ambleside (with a long run over Lough- rige Fell), Patterdale (with a climb toward St. iyesttieteeerieten a ed be beer et o"4? Pe PES PCS PCTS OTC i a G 20 mou oa yh: 7 Py i Pd ed rs ‘ aU ot ‘ M, + sd her td ed nel, DA DE EO PY et Oe be OP Oe he ba ee Peres Cs La karte ied eqearrerenh 7 * atte a Ht are | ss Sunday’s Crag), and so on. Practically every village flower-show, hound trail, or sheep-dog trials has its fell race as well. Butter Crags, at Grasmere sports, 1s admitted to be the champion- ship course of the year ; it is steeper, rougher, and harderthan any other. Informer times there were fell races from Coniston to the top of the Old Man Mountain. from Kirkstone Pass to the summit of Red Screes, but these have passed into history. Most interesting are the Lake Country sheep- 14d 6 a ae * re +e a4 yt Othe te et bd oe bok Pores Pt, rd 2.4 ot bd a a 4 eyo mh RTL «+ hs ret Se | Le ed ot er at a ie ie , ” ' , ht yt he 4 sist ie) ate ‘ i Peheetl eG 4 hey te Sy LAL bf bd ava sha Cee) 4 Ng Spa Ay ptt oe L a ee a oe * & ‘, a * a r Poe ee ee ee Oe er ‘ A o 4 + un oe Ae Ve OOF HS wtetstoletete}~ seacd ae bale 50 6.6 6.6 4.4.4*,0,%.*,*,1*15%54,* i ry oe ‘Task. arta rtd ee ++. LAPS Pad ty be | bi gcbiginietst lstestprperpieeyeristsist dpe, 8 eke Ore gia te Oe bd Ged ad bP ahd 7 * & *¢ 4 TTL? ed 1 awee os! The Dalesmen’s Sports dog trials. There is an apparently ordered leisure about the programme, which makes it an admir- able feature for an “off-day.” You get the spells of mild excitement without shouting or rushing from place to place. Briefly, the task placed before the shepherd and his dog is the driving and penning of three sheep. But the shepherd must stay on the base-line while the collie is turning and moving the little flock halfa mileaway. There isa definite time-limit which allows of no delay; there are points for passing certain flags and deductions for errors. The shepherd’s orders may be whistled, waved, or called. An alert judge will deduct a point for a wrong signal though the collie may do the right thing in moving the sheep. ‘There is shrewd comment, “The dog’s better than his master.” Sheep, dogs, and men are mountain bred. ‘The Herdwicks are swift runners, nervous of strange quarters, and particularly resentful of a strange dog. Sometimes a sturdy old ewe will turn on its tor- mentor and charge. ‘The dog jerks out of the way and speedily turns its aggressor into the proper path. The sheep dogs of the North are famous for pace, intelligence, and endurance. ‘They have graduated on the high stormy pastures where 149 oF 7 a, - —S SS ee ee ee —t -*- + f+ ~ i. eS . ESOC iw ota? tothe eee ‘ ada edestialeeetit le, ar * J + > ie et We bd iq te CG Pa ee os is yee eS she ote bak sytetetlndedititinidis er thd a eo. ‘ ie 17% 6 ‘witie FS are yr SURO Cpe a a rs | Hees PCI OES SIS Tree Il pe SSTCSEM MHC HOENUTU eye T ot Ser toes Or MOC, Othe bet bees beh peperes popes patorer rss Lee . eet SP ee LAWN So AAC eas ; rs oe) fC CAS SHA AO ee ‘ ‘ siepsisdat lt; 7 ry a. SO Pra a en a ttt Ie A ery SUAS eral) #4) eeretiic estore ree ¢.* Tie We a i othe RSTO CORAL) rn A oe ra 7 Olt we 216 batt Pit Ft, * ile 4 ey a a ati e @ 4.4 i eee Poe oats ee? 44 +i* * bree a * *i9.° . Lee ATT) Mt O dt ee ae e + +4 +.2 * SCH PtP bre Faas eee PC mrobefatineutitetttyeted ** Dt tt teh. ot eat a a or wea Foe Sy *

+ x - , et « te ba + n ett aoa 46,4) 9 PEt CTY fe be Lotte bone ie droge cat ene Pre er +4 eae Nee a t r 4 4 ; . . a 7. at ba a a Le Se eee ee Pe Oe Ba a4 - OY Se be bee ee | ++ be ee ie | Pa ‘ * . . " Por Tutt Se ie Lat Re Wn Ar AJ foros we te * + co fe itr ot AP i ad re ot op are r a ‘ Poe oe 7 a ie Pe ee BP ee be | ot Sot Pe f 7 7, rat *. a Te: e+ * -~ + + tt a 7 * + be oe 4,4 4” yer or! rae r . eta eae Po ef te r + 4 eee +e 4 oe PS an Mot eat «+4 ha a ary tt bes + * ae 7 ; A Po eos et he ae Tyo ra dets ea Seer ee re tthe * *, [a wt atu tented rersy eh A RL Dr rears whe aibe pet a. | + masse! eet OG oe bd 44 ae ! 8, ie ef AK &ie ca te Oe) oe c NN Nn tL hb 4 #14 *ye,4% 4 rs te 4abe Leet OS 4,0; 4, 4,0, 0)¢, 4% * erty ts orer ae a 2% 2% % * hag ra a UU + *e oe 4 4, e 4 014) Or) 6. 6 . ee oe Oe ee St Pi er oe main ‘ke e+? tyes ee * J The Dalesmen’s Sports sheep have to be sought, as well as driven. Their alertness is a marvel: the shepherd moves, his dog responds; distance seems to make no difference. And the fine art of penning the sheep must be witnessed. A space of three hurdles has been pre- pared, with a fourth hurdle as gate. The sheep must be driven inside the enclosure, and the gate closed on them to make the winning score. Naturally, there is some keen work at close quarters. ‘I'he dog may have gained command of its sheep or it may not—depends on the quality of dog and shepherd. Jack Mason seems to wheel his flock round the flags, almost touching each corner, down the last slope, and to halt the trio just at the opening of the pen. In a minute he has the three within, and no one knows how it is done. Sheer witchcraft, so it seems. But a less skilled worker has great trouble. The sheep break apart; two are near the pen, one is twenty yards past its opening. ‘The collie will drive whichever party his master decides—and the result is not always successful. ‘The odd sheep, left alone, trots into a distant position ; and when the dog comes back to chase it, the pair wander out of the pen. ‘his 1s often fatal to true penning—but not always. One has seen a most exciting drive-up and the 150The Dalesmen’s Sports little flock rushed home just on the stroke of time. Sheep-dog trials take place in our Lake country villages in practically every week of the summer. They afford a pleasant and happy change from the rush, noise, and racket of ordinary sports. Mostly, however, there is a hound trail as well, though latterly the sheep dogs have been kept as a separate fixture in some places. ‘There may be a show of fell foxhounds and terriers, and of working collies as well as the trials. The remaining sports of the Lake Country can be summed up ina paragraph. Yachting on Lake Windermere is the delight of wealthy amateurs ; on the other meres there is no real competition. Shooting is just as exclusive and special a sport in the Lake Country as elsewhere. If you have the time and a little money there is good rough shoot- ing to be obtained in tne outer parishes. ‘The best ground is, of course, preserved by the local landowners, and rarely available for visitors, no matter how much they may offer for the privilege. Angling in the Lake Country is almost dis- appointing as a whole. ‘The best streams are preserved either by landowners or associations ; for the rest, there is good trouting after heavy 151 ae a ae a rs 5 -—e ) ee te ee + ee eee Oe ee ee ee ee rr re ee ee Fe ee dae eee a ee ee el ee ee ee ee ee ee ee NN eee ee en er ee el el ae An rs r * ae | . ns ’ 4 a + * 054 4 °F Fb big 46 6 oe oo) er Eeaat Pha ot bras bre 0 Or bee eae ee itor! fl * eleit city ite ne * TORT eT ESeee Noe Stott ee oa sesee pat 8 Pees i ‘ti BSR AAG So, Le thet it Car i | virintagglfindel ine bettty RF tod A t+ LJ rh Pore are ere ee Wtt ae By Pee ts os ACCS FT LITE ees. 4*\* aie + yespereeerer sh oT ve 7 , AAA $:01h bietctiele a ha + * i+ : rotors Gat Gee. a) : iejegeled ese lbitiepetiodetht. reise ‘ a ror Pot od Weer } ee - oe) « Phe ed Pere +e A Ae ok Sot hi ont oe Pat ‘fhe ess RTL re / Car Pee Woh fhe oP ehh aa. ot oe Pt oe Pet rt re of Yt T 4 es ona" .t 14,9 ; phe sent REO IC THE SUF SCALA tht FSET o ir or “ * es ACIS s bees | oth itets = ; : H Jy’ c y i" is . + mest heed poate rt! reat ha fT ert rere tic Ser rye Ait? stots *, : errr é 44k © 61456 a * a4 * 4 * e PND ee fetes ere cen CaCO Oca tte BEDeUR eR a —_ ie a~ - " oT wae 7 + * Fea i | a ’ ‘ ot ea i, _ . : - + ra se 4 a toe -) Pat vee ve oe tT Pe es 44 oe yee 5a DEM Sear bees Mek he COOL I Nee ote GaN PUR pied bee Rot ad Oe! toe Jt we a* Aree | Lot bd ba ' J A - ae | ee *ibs ad ' . WANN “etetre RU She ’ ye te oe . ara Ot pe edet eC Peon Pe Ce Os RR hte | rin fk “bd bd Pte | ee — * 4 or" P| 4 Ps a. PtP * s eT ‘ a Se ESE CRS OE PUNT TEE ete TL ICN Che art tt, Yo Pras > *)) 4 aces @ be sa Pe. | es + SS rt ae Fs PY 4°,* Pe § 7 i ' A ae) rs . STStesestytetate enenea tereret ©. 67.0 Te . boi tie erect ie ary FORSCH St: J o Dati + + + re eal tot) e)%, * * i ed be PS IY Fe Vereen ee ee * é ca ss Ps e+e ~@ Fee 4 ‘ay aie at ry oe 7 “id Me Pett i ae a bia'4 Pid bee ‘ 7 Ye Pres ' rt a a + dia 4 00018 Pt ba ' or * + AA Ot. a. Te ad Pa. ees, +a°a4 hd a yg ni pereresreere Hiri by ee oF iy ot SECC Oe Pte be et Of Oe oe bd bs eet Fal be ee be Fed he be bap by “ rt tree re AAT A s etrtedere e+ bd 6*as4i th? in her on4. 4 \ Perk tl) he ht or iy oe an a oe. 25 + , ee j a Ye - Oe dll as 4-6: + €: 4 a ‘ os Tt. i > - =" a > ~~ 4 a + al ea fi e Alt h.0 6 * + 4 ad ted lee er ele | PO SU OCT bet * *) +) O54) * & % rs * 4 a an “T aa 4 . + soeeapitacdt tit IRV + 1+ er ee | - ee ie Y ++ tile 4 «2.6 6 The Dalesmen’s Sports rain among the hills. The West Cumberland streams have their sea-trout which run when the water is strong; there are salmon in the Leven at Newby Bridge, in the Derwent between Bassen- thwaite and the sea. The holiday-maker at, Say, Ullswater, Wasdale Head, or Cockermouth, may take a af In his kit ; in other places the pros- pect of sport must be the subject of special Inquiry. As a rule, however, the assoclations are liberal in “ day” or “month” tickets, and their ae will help the stranger In every possible way to an enjoyable holiday.INDEX AMBLESIDE, 27-8 Angling, 161-2 Appleby, 71 Bassenthwaite 53-4 Belle Isle, 22-3 Black Combe, 108-9 Blake Fells, 95 Borrowdale, 47-8 Borrowdale wad, 41, 54 Bowfell, 132-3 Brandlehow Park, 42, 44 Buttermere, 89-91 Lake, 41, Caldbeck, 56 Calder Abbey, 97 Cartmel, 121 Cartmel Fell, 25, 121 Castlerigg, 53 Catbells, 45 Claife, 26 Clifton Moor, 71 Climbers’ Park, 125-188 Cockermouth, 85 Coniston Lake, 99, 110-3 Se ad ae es Pt oa oe ee ee oe Oe ee ed eo ae 2, i ee ee oe ee - - + a ee eee ee ee ee ee ee ls datas aah ced de ek ek a ge el at ale een a ee ee ee al oe ee oe ee ee © ee ee ee ee Coniston Old Man, 114-6 Crummock Water, 84, 87-8 Cuthbert, St., 37-8 Derwentwater, 37-44 Derwentwater, Earl of, 59 40 Druids’ Circle, 50 Duddon, 105-6 Dunmail Raise, 36 Ennerdale Lake, 94, 96-7 Eskdale, 102-4 Esthwaite Water, 118, 120 Fairfield, 80 Fell (or Guides’) Race, 146-8 Ferry Hotel, 21 Friar’s Crag, 42-4 Furness Abbey, 21, 123-4 Glaramara, 1385 Glencoin, 61 Glenridding, 56, 62 Goat's Water, 116 Grasmere, 30-3 Graythwaite, 20 153 Cath alin atl ai dain ie ad - + > - Ff * a | ite nd cs * * Sd a | a i ll on ciel cent eet li a a al el a tiie i acl ih dina a Oe eee ee 7 = aes ——_ ae ee ee) de Cn | hd ahd is AAs CS ALP | Pek . es re . MEP Me otr erst ereR ISR itd is beatin eis betepagipe REPL rigints! o rf) cette wit sat ry | ‘ aes a ! ny tt C33 i ry © RAG ty as Sh Sot * : 4 eee et tte + Py Gott: tats! : g tet Moe MoeTreae brn tArseetaa FEAR TC ort 2 hee SOOT FOUN SPL IC: rer het en ny I OO eee OCS he eroe te Gat eer eats aN ebeheyeinistadoitoistinielt iviesediokais fa tiptelepetbidd 4*,¢ TU a reer a! eee ve vir) rar’ Peet ot ot) pipe at he rng vel Ft eTeibit, tolelafabiteteitisintetarebit tieleseieit ay 7? oC eAe AAA COU, C7 a. eitr ety: PRE eye tS Pi a er ror ce F eeeatr Ge reetse rer Sree Pe Ge? +'d-@ ye ree. ere ont mereey : pret Stor 6 © oe 47) bok S874 4 re * st’ a8) decisis i a : ols orate pf ret a ee | a rh ee ee Pesce fae, es ae Dae eee ts steely} oe * = = A 7 os " a ee tC Ph oe seia er6 ai Mtr i i ps aC * i * * + &« py oe ee ae oe | 4 e+ & | + 4 *-e ‘ - ‘ * . * **e 4 ¢ 7 ie - e+ ie ie Od whee be et LoCo tty! ARP as ‘ a | : rs | Ons in oe * ai en ea a. RR tt ia to Ge “s ete bat Mt et Ca y od 7 he a Itt on ae! “ ve | bt ie as : id aoe ta * a *pbrs UP Sot rhe eehee eth Prt a tr ‘ a 4 eer er ror. a7 Ne CRIT wo 4 te) + #14 a HDL de TeLeTTttt . «44 i? A * os rr ASG EH 2 Pte oe ' . o - UE PCT Se oe bd by bat ee. Ln i | ULF + Pe tart IG 25 ‘ ek A 70 : ; on “areca teat r i 4 | re ** 4 ” + rs 4°45 Ps eee. e) re 4,4 4 EA Ot 5 af . a a Cn + + * ‘ * in bce a rie ee! + a Ls a we ee eed ok oe kd te ee 2 o.oo oe | x MOOT TOC Tw Coe. * at pean | he ee be ey ee “ eee é: i656 $+, 4% e+ eb ’ * + + 7 oe vi te be by hy 4, fo a ee tit, rf hh ie Tow Pha + * J Eee i he Be e) an 7 a) eS a ne oe cae + % [7 2 SHAR e+e mt 2° nah [7 Oty iy te : ¢ . a - Pe MU . * Jeet te oe aL Fhe tat hehe es: ty ny ‘“% 7 DU haere beaee? e+? 65% © + + +e : Pee oe te be’ bs ries aha pabesea gts nee i" . rs t, p ** Great Bote.” 99 —_— Great End, 128 Great Gab le, 3 126, 3 Grisedale, 62-3, 80 — Haweswater, 72 Hawkshead, 1] Hay eswater, 6/ Helvellyn, 74 Herbert. St, , High White St Holker, 122 Honister C rag, 5 + ; *) +6 () -3 io, 81-2 4 5 1) =<) tones, l: 31-2 Hound trail, 139-144 Keswick. 40-] Kirk Fell, 13 Kirkstone, 65-6 Lady’s Rake, Lakeside, 19 Langdale, 36, 1 Langdale Pikes, 1 Lodore, 49 Lorton, 86 Loweswater, Q») oo Martindale. 69 My iv-i 40} ‘) » ow <>) 24 Mortal Man. 25-6 National Trust, 5 Or 34 Index 154 Newby Bridge, 18, 19 Newlands, 54-5 Patterdale, 61 Peel, John, 56 Penrith, 70 Pike o’ Blesco, 133 Pillar Mountain, 137 Pillar Rock, 96 (Jueen Adelaide's Hill, Red Screes, 78-9 Red Tarn, 82 Robinson, John Wilson, 86-7 Robin the Devil, 23 Rush-bearing at Grasmere, 31-3 Ruskin, John, 44, 112 Rydal Mount, 28-9 Rydal Water, 29 St. John’s in the Vale, 51 Seafell, 135 Scafell Pike, 99, 128 Scott, Sir Walter, 23, 51 Screes (Wastwater), 98 Seathwaite (Duddon), 106-7 Sheep-dog trials, 149-151 Shooting, 151Sim’s Cave, 51 Skiddaw Forest, 55 Somervell, Howard, 73 Striding Edge, 63 Stybarrow, 59-60 Thirlmere, 46, 52-3 Tilberthwaite Ghyll, 116-7 Turn Hows, 113-4 Troutbeck, 25 UUswater, 57-59 Index Wasdale Head, 100-1, 137 Wastwater, 98-9 Watendlath, 45-6 Windermere, 17-26, 99 Wordsworth, Dorothy, 30 Wordsworth, William, 17, 24, 28, 31-2, 54, 67, 85, 119 Wrestling, 145-6 Wythburn, 52-3 Yewdale, 117 PRINTED IN GREAT BRITAIN BY BILLING AND SONS, LTD., GUILDFORD AND Eshuh Ti" tT? til eens aati at ail dl saan ial a ill call pt Aaa ie Se al Deeg a lad + Cn ee ee ae ee ee Oe etter ethic et ee he ae —_ a ee ee ——————————————————— canctiemeeenpnannsesilimaencamapulians **-* : ei*.¢ “ Pet a eed sie babe be ee r ae Spee Phe ¢'* rey rs : re a 7 a. | "i i BR ete ere nT apie bretemndeete tet . ee oa : a * Bh he ‘Se Ot | rt 1 * ee aL aure Pert aM Mey aa reae st) / wrt ee big FOG Sry Soest ots * a Ls Py ed + + a. Lan he oe ee Se be J + eet) a ry peste peel ye ney ‘ oT rs + AR 3G sikdisetinte a7 . % ie 47, * af: | 4 hd ot bidpdeirtedisle Lt Tere aa oe a a eee ST Nene ae ’ afb fetinintetet te ais He e 6 ra Pr + + 4 & * b # 4* pm pepeeetreee re cy) , Pr erat Hi eye ,* ol — erste ci ett +:¢,, Fs J 4 LJ | — eres PCO tl J "> or o*4 Por ste od Ca 4 t * 4.4% 4 ot + moose tan yt Otani SIRICOOOUUT Tt bret eee Pte Pea Teo Ce be hanna et Sets Ca re er) . rer tr a rt Sy a Sie @ & 6 -+1* @ ot ety bf rt +ieie Pvt: sldtataneth alee etielele bieleth'e tate: bopolateLelscelilatatinisttet OTS erat MU hb ed 4 id | ry wt Fr * *, "$i? 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G rau heed bear Heed oo Co Por eeay a Lae Pe ie oe bes 7. | ** a | Me ath be i bs On ae eet oa ¢ s a. Ce J Ce a a 4 he Pd ul ‘s+. + a oF OV sb dees wan bt bd ba | Ul "a7E% + ried Wye eo a. | ++ a aa) a J eee bef + * tie a | a a bas a “ht rs * . 7 eee Mt by be see bs Le RIOT =) ot a s*: ti? a « Phy Ferbd or) ae SURI L 4 Pa ot, * - a ed | a J + “*. a = ry * ror : +e ** “4 hs 7 i ‘ at tw a. JO ARAN ote 7 oe i ‘The Golden Reciter A volume of Recitations and Readings selected from the writings of RUDVYARD KIPLING, R. L. STEVENSON, ConAN Dove, THOMAS HArRpy, AusTIN Dobson, CHRISTINA Rossetti, Maurice HeEw.Lett, A. W. PINERO, SYDNEY GRUNDY, &’c. fe Wi With a practical Introduction by Carrns JAmgs, Professor of Elocution at the Royal College of Music and the Guildhall School of Music '@ ee i! owe ~~. “ = : y Extra Crown OYOC., CULF FOO pares, cf ITH, 65. met. 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Bees i ,° + rt ean EFe r *\* ee. ¢ ++ a ht ahd Phe ba ‘ rep ht be i Tete eke +424 Vheagelean tt + 7 2 * +) 4 CI * a] an ii yr PLE os ear os24¢ er t IE ae re an rT . * Pod ve ieass Pi " ei eit rePLrTh Ped bd a, ret yt n . $74") a) . ret Ser at es ++ © * ae OCT jabeinbébaddie 7 + ae] 7.7.4 a See + + ne ay 4 ee ee re > Se ee ee ee ee ee ee ee - * ee ee ee — *-— + s "Tia. + + * * + ++ « E i ape rf rt See ot et ot =e e+ rs Sa a a al de i Ale a i ee al a a ee ae oe a aot alin den ale * * — Pgh eel ee *; ° bal Re ee ee eee ee ed a , ee ae od ee, hs . ~t-* os Ck ee a i Sl a ee a 5 ed ie dled . « + ee ¢ + & woe + + pieete ee PF A pag hd * q , Len tnd whe a gh Phd Aa gt Ph h Pe (Ae ee " - ne - =. Ca 2 ee ee ee ee - ee ee oe ee - Fl : . a Sk 78; oe - ‘ Pe Bs P ens a) Pe ad al} .* . ++ 79" ° t Le gs} ‘ cS aL se ee ee ee Seeley, Service & Co Ltd | Oxford By ANDREW LANG New Edition, reset, and with 50 illustrations by famous artists, including a frontispiece in three colours by J. H. 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