I ILLINOIS

Production Note

Digital Rare Book Collections
Rare Book & Manuscript Library
University of Illinois Library at
Urbana-Champaign
2018

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

FEMALE BEAUTY,

AS PR ESERVED AND IMPROVED 13‘!

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FEMALE BEAUTY,

AS PRESERVED AND IMPROVED BY

REGIMEN, CLEANLINESS AND DRESS;

AND ESPECIALLY BY THE

ADAPTATION, COLOUR AND ARRANGEMENT OF DRESS,

AS VARXOUSLY INFLUENCING THE

_..._...__ .. ‘—-_..—'A~_..~—~———‘W'

FORMS, COMPLEXION, dz EXPRESSION OF EACH INDIVIDUAL,
AND RENDERING

COSMETIC IMPOSITIONS UNNECESSARY.

 

BY:MRS.A/WALKER.

 

i
x "4

ALL THAT REGARDS REGIME)? AND HEALTH. BEING FURNISHED BY MEDICAL
FRIENDS, AND REVISED BY

SIR ANTHONY CARLISLE, F.R.S.
VICE PRESIDENT OF THE COLLEGE OF SURGEONS,

(3‘0. ‘81-. (fa.

ILLUSTRATED BY COLOURED DRAWINGS OF HEADS BY J. W. \VRIGHT,
AND OF FIGURES BY E. T. PARRIS.

LONDON:
THOMASHURST,%,ST.PAUL€ CHURCHAARD,

1837.

 

 

 

 

 

 

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DEDICATION.

TO

THE LADIES OF ENGLAND, SCOTLAND,
AND IRELAND;

IN THE EARNEST WISH

TO PRESERVE AND IMPROVE THAT BEAUTY,
FOR WHICH TH EY ARE DISTINGUISHED
FAR ABOVE ALL THE WOMEN OF WESTERN EUROPE,
AND EVERY MODE OF WHICH IS ADMIRABLE,
BECAUSE IT IS EVER THE ACCOMPANIMENT AND SIGN OF
INVALUABLE BODILY 0R MENTAL QUALITIES;

AND IN THE HOPE

TO SHOW THAT DRESS IS A FINE ART,
POSSESSING SCIENTIFIC PRINCIPLES,
OF WHICH THE KNOWLEDGE WILL ENABLE THEM
TO TURN EVERY TRANSIENT FASHION TO THE BEST ACCOUNT,
IN THE ENHANCEMENT OF BEAUTY
AND THE POWERFUL EXPRESSION
OF THE QUALITIES WHICH IT INDICATES;

THIS WORK IS RESPECTFULLY INSCRIBED,

BY THE WRITER.

 

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ADVERTISEMENT.

Q

A DUE attention to the subjects of this work,
Regimen, Cleanliness, and Dress, is a proof of
love of order, regularity of conduct, and habits of
cleanliness 5 and it therefore produces a favorable
impression on those who observe it. It indicates
respect for ourselves and for others 3 and it con—
sequently begets in others a reciprocal feeling.
It is an evidence of taste, and a test of it: it
accordingly communicates the pleasures of taste
of others; and as the pleasures thus procured are
strictly associated With the person of her Who dis—
plays it, it”1 ensures in a corresponding degree,
personal regard. F inally, it tends to prolong
youth and beauty, the value of which, in relation
both to ourselves and others, is inappreciable.

I know not how better to prove that due atten—
tion to Regimen, Cleanliness, and Dress, is essen4
tial to the happiness both of the male and female

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viii. ADVERTISEMENT.

sex. I am sure that the girl Who at ﬁfteen strives
not to please, Will be an ill—natured and disagree-
able woman at ﬁve and twenty.

The love of dress, however, When ill—directed
and unrestrained, produces the most serious in-

. conveniences.

It has, in modern times, been too much the
fashion to follow the example of the Roman ladies,
Who spent great part of the day over the toilet.
I have been anxious, therefore, to contribute
toward the skill and the taste Which may produce
the best attire, in the shortest time, so as to
leave more for the improvement of the mind and
the duties of life.

Among the same people, the numerous prepa—
rations attached to the toilet, and all the luxuries
lavished upon it, consumed a great portion of their
enormous revenues; and, t0 the extent of our
ability, we follow their example. I have, therefore, >
as far as possible, sought rules for the toilet Which
may be equally adapted to the rich and the poor.

An undirected and excessive love of dress is apt
to foster an excessive delicacy. But, as in human
life, so many changes of fortune succeed each other,
we ought carefully to avoid contracting habits at
Once too reﬁned and too rooted. Factitious wants,
and little gratiﬁcations, may one day become the
cause of regrets and sorrow.

The true object of dress is cleanliness and

 

ADVERTISEMENT. ix.

elegance, not eﬂ'eminacy: it should enhance beauty;
and for this reason it must ensure bodily health.

In regard to the last of these subjects, I am
indebted to the best writers on regimen, andj for
many hints, to the work of Dr. Paris, Which is by
far the best of the complete or systematic treatises
0n dietetics. A11 indeed that regards regimen and
health, has been furnished by medical friends, and
revised by one of the best judges in the world—
Sir Anthony Carlisle.

In every part of the work, I have proﬁted from
all the best writers; and in the part Which regards
dress in particular, I have been extensively aided
by the best artistes in every department. With—
out this, indeed, the work would have been worth—
less.

I may, however, I believe, say, that the Whole
Plan of the Work is new as well as systematic ;
and that not less neW are,———the consideration of
dress as a ﬁne art having deﬁnite principles,—-the
vindication of the superiority of ﬁtness to fashion,
of cleanliness t0 cosmetics, and of natural com-
plexion to artiﬁcial paints,——the View of the rela—
tion of colours to each other, of their application
to the face by contrast and reﬂection, and of their
power to correct every fault of complexion,—the
exposition of the various modes of enhancing the
effect of ﬁne forms and features, and of correcting
faulty 0nes,——the generalizations 0r simpliﬁcations

 

 

 

 

 

X. ADVERTISEMENT.

which regard the composition of dress,—-the Views
as to character, simplicity and ornament in dress,
&c. &e. &c.—-as well as the method of illustrating
these by drawings.

It is here that I ought to render thanks to Mr.
Wright for the excellent illustration which his
drawings of heads afford, to Mr. Paris for his
very elegant and graceful ﬁgures, to Mr. M. Gauci
as by far the best of our lithographers, and to
Mr. Ayton as equally distinguished above other
colourists.

1, October, 1836.

 

CONTENTS

PREFACE.
Fashion and Fitness . . . Page 1
Dress, one of the Fine Arts . . . . 6!).

Its Degeneration in Modern Times . 3
Its Supposed Want of Principle.—~Origin of Fashion 7
Fashion Less Inﬂuential than Formerly . . 12
Principle Regulating Fashions—Fitness . . 13

Art of Improving Dress and rendering it Fashionable 16

Cosmetics and Cleanliness . . . 17
Cosmetics . . . . . . 2‘12.
Mechanical Means . . . . 18
Baths of Milk . . . . . 2'5.
Pastes . 19
Unctuous Compositions . . . . ‘21
Acid and Spirituous Compositions . . ‘23‘
Metallic and Poisonous Compositions . . :4
Baths too Hot or too Cold . . . ‘27
Shampooing . . . . . . ‘29
Tooth Powders . . . . 30
Hair Oils . . . . . . 32
Conclusion . . . . 33

Cleanliness . . . . . . (54¢

 

 

xii. ' CONTENTS.

Artiﬁcial Paints and Natural Complexion 34
Paints . i1).

Of White Metallic Paint 35

Of Red Metallic Paint 36

Of \Vhite Earthy Paint 37

Of Red Vegetable Paint 38

Of Red Animal Paint 41

Of Hair Dyes . ib.

Of Paint for the Eyes, &0. . 43

Of those Who use Paints . . . 44
PART L—Regimen . . . . 47
Chapter I.—Regimen of the Locomotive Organs . i6.
Chapter II.—Regime11 of the Vital Organs . . 48
Section I.—Diet.—Farinaceous Food . . ib.
Mucilaginous Food . . . 50

Fruits or Acidulous Food . . . . 51
Saccharine Food . . . . 52

0in Vegetable Food . . . . 53

Milk, or Caseous Food . . . 54
Fibrinous Food . . . . . 59
Gelatinous Food . . . . 61
Albuminous Food . . . . . 62.

Fish . . . . . z'b.
Seasoning . . . . . . 64
Cooking, 8w. . . . . 67
Beverages.-—-Water . . . . 69
Refreshing Draughts . . . 74
Fermented Liquors . . . . 7 6
Spirituous Liquors . . . . 80

Tea . . . . . '. 82

Coffee . . . . . 84

 

CONTENTS. xiii.

Chocolate . . . . 86
Proper F 00d of Mankind . . . . 87
Peculiar Tastes . . . . 89
Times of Meals . . . . . 90
Quantity of Food . . . . 92
Section II.—Respiration.-—Weight of Air . . 96
Warm and Dry Air . . . 97
Warm and Moist Air . . . . 99
Cold Air . . . . 100
Renewal of Air . . . . . 2'6.
Air of Various Places . . . 102
Air as aﬁ‘ec’ced by Vegetables . . . 103
Air as affected by Combustion . . 106
Air as affected by Putrid Emanations . . 107
Dwelling in the Vicinity of Forests . . i6.
Dwelling by the Seaside . . . . 108
Dwelling in Towns . . 2'12.
Situation, &c. of Houses ‘ . . . . 109

Section III.-—Of Secretions.—-—Those of the Skin. 111

Perspiration . . . . . 2'12.
Effects of Light on the Skin . . . 112
Effects of Heat and Light on the Skin . . 114
Effects of Cold on the Skin . . . 2'6.
Eﬁ'ects 0f Moist Cold 0n the Skin . . 115
Effects of Changes of Temperature . 116
Chapter III.-—Regimen of the Mental Organs . 118
Section I.—Toucb.—Its Relation to Reﬁnement . 2'5.
Means of Improving it . . . . 119
Section II.——Taste.—Its Late Development . 120

Means of Improving Taste . . . 121

 

 

xiv . CONTENTS.

Section III.——Smell.—Its Purposes and Eﬁects . 122
Means ofImproving it . . . . 194
Of this Sense in Woman . . . 125

 

Section IV.—Seeing.—Circumstances Aifecting it . 126

Light preferable for the Eye . . 127
Artiﬁcial Light, &c. . . . . 129
Of Looking at Minute Objects . . 131
Eyeglasses, &c. . . . . . 132
Circumstances Injurious to the Eye . . 133
hTeans of Improving the Eye . . . 135
Section V.—-Hearing.—Nature of Hearing . 137
Action of Sounds on the Ear . . . 138
Means of Improving this Sense . . 139

Section VI.——-Thought, 8m. Wrong Employment of it 142

Effects of Wrong Employment . . 143
Eﬂ‘ects of Passion . . ~ . . 144
Love of Gaming, &c. in particular . . 146
Remedy for these Evils ; . . . 147
Guidance of Intellectual Pursuits . . 149
Section VII.~Sleep.éNature of Sleep . . 150
Time of Sleep . . . . 151
Of Bed Rooms . . . . . 156
Of Beds; 8w. . . . . 157
Wakefulness, 8:0. . . . . 158
Duration of Sleep . . . . 159
Sleep in Relation to Age and Sex . . 161
Section VIII.—V0ice.—Effects of Exercising it . 16%
Conversation, Reading, &c. . . '. 163
Singing . . . . . . 164

Effects of Vocal Exercises . . . 166

 

 

CONTENTS. XV.

PART IL—Cleanliness . . . . 168

Chapter I.-—Treatment of Parts under the Surface . 2‘6.

Section I.—Plumpness.—Defect of it . . 2'6.
OfAcquiring Plumpness . . . 169
Of Excessive Plumpness . . . 172

Section II.—-Flaccidity.—-Remedy, &c. . . . 173

Section III.—Wrink1es :Their Appearance and Causes 174
Remedies in Some Cases . . . 175

Section IV.—Aﬁections of the Skin . . . 176
Roughness . . . . 2'12.
Freckles . . . . . . 177
Sunburning, 8:0. . . . . 178
Dark Specks . . . . . 179
Pimples . . . . 180

Chapter IL—Treatment of the Mouth and Skin. . 182

Section I.—Mouth.—~The Teeth . . ib.
Health as connected With them . . . 2‘b.
Beauty as connected With them . . 183
Voice as connected with them . . . 186
Causes of Injury to them . . . 187
Cleanliness of the Teeth . . . . 188
Tooth Powders . . . . 191
Tooth Brushes . . . . . 194
Cleanliness continued . . . 195
The Dentist’s Operations . . . . 196
The Gums . . . . . 197
The Breath . . . . . 198
The Tongue, Throat, &c. . . . 199

Section IL—Skin . . . . . 900

F reshness . . . . 2'6.

 

 

xvi“ CONTENTS.

Perspiration . . . . . 201

 

Eﬁ’ects of Perspiration on Dress . . 202
Scales on the Skin ., . . . 203
Care of the Skin . . . . 204
Section III.-—-Baths . . . . . 205
Preferableness of Water . . . 206
Necessity of Baths . . . . 2'22.
Temperature and Effects of Baths . . 210
Use of Soap . . . . . 212
Subsequent Treatment.-——Frictions . . 213
Precautions . . . . . 214
Ablutions . . . . ib.
Section IV.——-Lips.—Colour of Lips . . . 215
Shape of Lips and their Defects . . 216
Injuries from Bad Habits . . . . 217
Injuries from External Causes . . 218
Diseases communicated by Lips . . . 2?).
Section V.——Nose.—Cleanliness of Nose . . 219
Section VI.—Eyes.——Clean1iness . . . 221
Injurigs to and Treatment of Eyes . _ . 222
Section VII.—Ears.—Form and Defects . . 223
Cleanliness, &c. . . . . 224
Section VIII.—-Neck.——Injurious Habits . . 225
Section IX.-—-Hands.~—Cleanliness of Hands 226
Care ofHands . . . . . 227
Aﬂ‘ections of Hands . . . 228
Treatment of Nails . . . . 230
Section X.— Feet.—Care of Feet and Nails . 232
Aﬁ'ections of Feet . . . . 233
5

 

CONTENTS. xvii.

Chapter HL—Treatment 0fthe Hair, &'0. . . 236
Section I. . z’c’z.
Care of the Hair . . . . 237
Articles used in Dressing the Hair . . 2'6.
Cutting the Hair . . . . 242
Combing the Hair 245
Washing the Hair . . . . 246
Cleaning with Powder 247
Brushing the Hair . . . 2'6.
Cropping the Hair . . . . 248
Injurious Practices as to the Hair . . 249
Tresses and Curls 250
Papillotes . . . z’b.
Curling by Hair Pins . . . . 254
False Fronts . . . . . 255
Treatment of the Hair at Night . . . 256
Colour of the Hair . . . . 257
Falling off of the Hair . : . . 258
Baldness . . . . . 260

Section IL—Eyebrows and Eyelashes.-——Eyebrows . 262
Eyelashes . . . . 2'6.

Section III.-—-Superﬂuous Hairs.——Places affected . 263

Modes of Removal . . . . 2'1).
Depilatories . . . . . 265

PART HL—Dress . . . . . 269
Chapter I.——Clothing in General . . . 2'17.
Section I.—Materials.——Their General Inﬂuence . z'b.

Linen . . . . . . 272

Cotton . . . . . 273

Woollen Cloth . . . . . 274

 

xvii}. CONTENTS.

Silk . 278
Furs . . . . . . :7}.
Change of Clothes in relation to Weather . 279
Section 1].-—Texture . . ./ . 282

Section III.—Colours.——In relation to Temperature . 283

In relation to their Beauty . u . 284
In relation to Particular Purposes . 286
In relation to Character or Situation . . 287
In relation to Character of Face and Form . ii).
In relation to Complexion . . . 288
Of the consequent Choice of Colour . . 289
Of the Relation of Colours to each other . z‘bg
Application of Colours to the Face by Contrast . 291
Objections answered . . n ‘ 993

Application ofColours to the Face of Reﬂexion . 294.
Application of Colours to Fair or Dark Complexions Q95

Application ofVVhite or Black to certain Complexions 2'6.

Relieving Colours . .. . n .4 298
Colours Relieving by Contrast . . 301
Their lVIanagement in Relation to the Face “ e’b.
Colours Relieving by Harmony ‘ . 302
Colour of Appartments . . . . 303

Section IV.—General Form of Dress.—-Its Principles 304

The Ancient Greek Dress . . . 305
Character of Northern Clothing . . . 307
Chapter II.—Particular Articles of Clothing . . 309
Section I.—-Linen . . . . 2'6.
Section II.—Stays.——Their History . . . 310
Effect of Stays on Beauty . . . 314
Effect of Stays on Health . . . . 320

. Effect of Stays on Pregnancy . . 3‘25
Kinds of Cinctures, Corsets, &c. . . . 3‘27

 

CONTENTS. xix.

Section III.-——Paddings and Compresses.—General . 334

For the Chest . . . . . 335
For the Shoulders, Armpit, Bosom . . 337
The Bustle, Tournure, &c. . . . ib.
For the Arm . . . . 338
For Effects of Pregnancy . . . . 339
Section IV.-——Petticoats . . 341
Section V.—Stockings, 3:0. . . . . 342
Garters . . . . . 343
Section VL—Gowns or Dresses generally . 345
The Dress-maker . . . . . 2'1).
The Material and Style . . . 346
Open and High Dresses . . . . 347
Half—high and very low Dresses . . . 349
Full-Dress noticed Generally . . if].
Trimmings . . . . . . 330
Peculiarities of Shape, 8L0. . . . 352
Trying 011 . . . . . . 356
Section VIL—Head-dresses . . . 357'
Others and their Adaptation . . . 358
General Adaptation of Head-dresses . . 359
In relation to Defects . . . . 361
Section VIII.—Kerchiefs, 8w. . . . 362
Section IX.—Shawls, Furs and Cloaks . . 364
Section X.——Gloves, &C. . . . 365
Section XI.—Shoes.-—Their Substance . . z'b.
Their Fitting, &c. . . . . 366
Tightnéss in Shoes . . . . 368
Of the Inner Sole . . . . 369
Boots, Clogs and Cork Soles . . . 2'6.

Economy of Shoes . . . . 370

 

 

XX. CONTENTS.

Chapter III.—-Composition and Character of Dress . 371
Section I.—-Compositi0n.—Night Dress . . ib.
Morning Dress . . . '. 372
Ordinary Dress . . . . . 373
Promenade Dress . . . . 374
Carriage Dress . . . . . 375
Further Dress for Promenade, Carriage, &c. . 376
Ball Dress . . . . 377
Variations of Dress with Season and Age . 381
Section II.—Mode of Dressing . . . 383
Section EIL—Character . . . 386
General Principle a . . . 2'5.
Minor Details . . . . 387
Section IV.—Simplicity ., . . . 388
Opinions of the Ancients . . . ib.
Opinions of the Modems . . . . 389
Further Remarks . g . . 391
Section V.-—Ornament . . . . 392
Principle for employing Flowers and Jewels . 2'6.
Ear-rings, Bracelets and Rings . . 393
Opinions of Writers . . . . 394
Still Stronger Argument . . . 395
Chapter IV.——-Dress of Hair - . . 397
Section I.——Character¢——Erroneous Notions . 2'6.
Reply to these Opinions.—-General Rule - 399
Inconsistency of such Writers - . . 400
General Principles - - - 401
Minor Details . . . . - 402
Section II.—-Simp1icity.——Parting on Forehead - 403

Curling the Hair . . s - 404

 

CONTENTS. xxi.

Gathering the Hair up into a Knot . . 406
Flowers, &0. for the Hair . . . 407
Adaptation to Features . a . 2'6.
Section II.—Ornament or Complexity . . 408
Combing and gathering up the Hair . . 27).
Turning the Hair . . . . . 409
Further Arrangement of the Hair , . 410
In Bows . . . . . . 411
In Braids . . . . . 415
In Twist or Torsade . . . . 2'6.
In Ringlets or Curls . . . 416
Of the Hairdresser, the Finish, &c. . . 417’
Superadded Ornaments . . . 418
Chapter V.—Perfumes.—Their Effects . . 421
Other Objections . . . . 492
Various Perfumes, and their Quantities . . 493
Perfume for Artiﬁcial Flowers . 424
Rose Scent Bags . . . . . 425
Rose Pastiles . . . . 2'6.
Other Pastiles . . . . . 426

APPENDIX.——Observations by a Gentleman on the Imitation

of French Fashions . . . 427

 

, 2: .,i: :11). .V

 

 

LIST OF PLATES.

PLATE
I. Diagram illustrating Colours, écc.

II. Management of Yellow Complexion
III. Management of Red Complexion
IV. Management of Pale Dark Complexion
V . Management of Broad J aws
VI. Management of Short Neck
VII. Management of Thick Waist .
VIII. ~IVTanagement of Short Limbs
IX. Production of Character in Dress .
X. Simplicity and Ornament compared

XI. Different Character in Ornament

Opposite to Page
. ’239

 

WORKS RECENTLY PUBLISHED BY T. HURST,

65, ST. PAUL’S CHURCH-YARD, LONDON.

I.

Half—bound in Morocco, price 88., embellished with 56 Engravings, from
Designs by F. Howard and H. Alken,

MANLY EXERCISES;

Containing Walking, Running, Leaping, Vaulting, Balancing,
Skating, Climbing, Swimming, Rowing, Sailing, Riding, Driving,
&c. 8:0. 8:0.

BY DONALD WALKER:*

THIRD EDITION, MUCH ENLARGED.

OPINIONS OF THE JOURNALS.

WEEKLY PAPERS.

"A capital work of its kind, and not only a guide, but a provocative to
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and especially among those whose employments are sedentary.’ ’——Literary
Gazette.

“ This is a curious and valuable volume. A prettier present could not be
made to a lad, not one more likely to be useful.”——Sunday Times.

“ A very useful work, in which instructions are given for acquiring per-
fection in all the manly exercises of the country. It is written with great
cleamess and brevity, and by a gentleman evidently well acquainted With
his subjects.”—-Bell’s Life in London.

“ This is precisely the kind of book we have been long wishing to see—an
introduction to manly exercises, free from quackery.—-—A plain, simple and
rational system of practice for those exercises which are conducive both to
health and amusement.—It is a perfect manual of instruction upon the sub-
jects of which it treats.”——The Portico.

“ This is an excellent and useful little book, and one from which persons

of all ages and sizes may derive essential beneﬁt.”—Naval and Military
Gazette.

‘ ‘ To all lovers of healthful and manly amusements, this work must prove
invaluable. The instructions in Rowing, Sailing, and Driving, are quite

new. We will venture to predict a rapid and diffused sale to this admirable
work.”-—The Town.

 

4* Who could have thought a Walker would know so much about Riding
and Driving ?-Literary Gazette. b

Am.:—-¢.ﬁ -"

,..—. e.-. -__— a-gu. -.—.

#zg. A

 

 

 

 

XXVi. WORKS RECENTLY PUBLISHED BY T. HURST,

DAILY PAPERS.

“ A very complete little volume. It describes clearly and carefully all the
gymnastic arts and manly exercises to which the youth of this country are,
and ever should be, addicted.—As the price of this attractive volume is very
moderate, it Will probably ﬁnd an extensive sale among our schools.”—
Morning Herald.

“ Those who are ambitious of attaining excellence, or, at any rate, a com—
petent knowledge of our various sorts of amusements, especially of the
mysteries of Riding, Driving, and Sailing, will ﬁnd many useful practical
hints on these subjects within the boards of this v01ume.”-——Sun.

“The following extracts from a work (Walker’s ‘ Manly Exercises,’)
on Sailing, &c., recently published, are highly interesting to a maritime
nation.”—The Times.

“ No one will lay down the book of ‘ Manly Exercises’ but to take it up
again with renewed pleasure, for it comes home to the business and bosom
of all. A work unique in its kind, and of universal utility.”—-Guardian and
Public Ledger.

PROVINCIAL PAPERS.

‘ ‘ We have rarely met with any literary production which bids fairer to be
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Dispatch.

“ This is really a beautiful little Work, and complete in its kind.”
Gloucestershire Chronicle.

 

“ This work is of a curious, amusing, and, We must add, of a very instruc-
tive nature.”—Oxford Herald.

“ A11 is well done, and presented in a truly elegant form.”——Kent Herald.
“Parents who are anxious to lay the foundation offutm‘e health and

strength, and to remedy any constitutional defect in any of their children,
will ﬁnd this work valuable.”——Merthyr Guardian.

11.

In Royal 18mo., price 83. roan, gilt edges; or 93. in silk; illustrated with
33 copper-plates,

EXERCISES FOR LADIES;

Calculated to preserve and improve Beauty, and to prevent
and correct Personal Defects, inseparable from constrained or
careless Habits: founded on physiological Principles.

BY DONALD WALKER.

SECOND EDITION, WITH GREAT ADDITIONS AND IMPROVEMENTS.

 

MEDICAL TESTIMONIALS-
Letterfrom Dr. Birkbeck to the Author.

My dear Sir, 38, Finsbury Square; Dec. 10, 1835.
To promote and to regulate the exercise of young ladies, are objects
not less important than difﬁcult; and I am delighted to see an attempt
made by the author of “ Manly Exercises,” for their accomplishment.

 

65, ST.PAUL’s CHURCH-YARD, LONDON. xxvii.

With your general views regarding female development, Which are clear
and well expressed, I thoroughly agree: and I am not less gratiﬁed by what
you have stated respecting the necessity of early freedom from all restraint
of a personal kind, of equality of action and position, and of constant,
appropriate, wellregulated exercise, to the production alike of grace, of
health, and of vigor. You have contributed materially, I am persuaded, to
prevent the occurrence of unequal enlargement of muscular parts, the ﬁrst
and slightest species of deformity; and the still more serious deviations
from the correct form of the body, which occur when that curious and
beautiful mechanical fabric the spine, becomes deranged. The means
which you have proposed for the correction of such casualties when they do
occur, are excellent; and will, I trust, quickly supersede the use of all
those inconsistent and unscientiﬁc expedients, which, under the pretext of
producing support and extension, augment the essential cause of deformity,
by crippling the natural actions, overloading the weakened frame, and
exerting much unequal and painful pressure.

The modes of action which, in your work, you have proposed as exercises
for ladies, are good; and some of them are interesting and amusing. It has
occurred to me often to observe, that for the recommendation of suitable
and sufﬁcient exercise, it was not enough powerfully to display its ultimate
importance to the well being of the individual; it was necessary to secure
its adoption, to render it attractive likewise. Hence the advantage of
dancing; and hence the advantage of the Indian Exercise, which, by its
elegance, variety, and moderation, will, I doubt not, when your work has
been extensively circulated, become a general favorite. Indeed, I am not
acquainted with any modiﬁcations of action, which, in conferring grace,
facility, and power, can be compared with the Indian Exercise.

That in this new endeavour to improve the physical condition of our
species—and, in this instance, unquestionably the most interesting portion—
I hope you may be eminently successful, after what I have written upon the
subject, cannot be doubted: and I remain ever, my dear Sir,

Very sincerely and faithfully yours,
To Donald Walker, Esq. GEORGE BIRKBECK.

 

Letterfrom Dr. Copland t0 the Author.

Dear Sir,

I have been very much pleased by the perusal of your book on the
“ Exercises for Ladies,” &c.

I agree With you in the opinion, that the universal and perpetually ope-
rating cause of deformity in young ladies is the “ one-sidedness” with which
nearly every action in common life is performed. Of the safety and efﬁcacy
of the exercises you recommend I have no doubt. The Indian Sceptre
exercise is the most efﬁcient and most graceful of any hitherto devised.

Upon the whole, I esteem the Exercises described to be the best calculated,
of any means that have come to my knowledge, to prevent deformity, to
remedy it in most cases, and to promote a healthy physical development.

I am, dear Sir, yours truly,
JAMES COPLAND, M.D F.R.S. &c.
Bulstrode Street; 10, Dec. 1835.
To Donald Walker, Esq.

 

From, Mr. Coulson’s T/Vork nn Deformities 0f the Chest.
“1 deem the Indian Exercises, ﬁrst described in this country by Donald
Walker, in his ‘ Exercises for Ladies,’ as greatly preferable to all others,
both in these and in every other deformity of the chest.”

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

xxviii. WORKS RECENTLY PUBLISHED BY T. HURST,

OPINIONS OF THE JOURNALS,
As TO THE FIRST EDITION;

Being Emuets from a, few of the more important.

MAGAZINES.

“ A more important work to the fair sew than Walker’s ‘ Exercises for Ladies”
has not for years issued from the press. The peculiar excellence of this work
is, that all masculine gymnastics are excluded from its practice, and that
the grace and delicacy of the female mind and person are considered, as well
as the means of promoting health.”

Lady’s Magazine for February, 1836.

“ Had we commenced this periodical sooner, Walker’s important work
would, most assuredly, have been the ﬁrst on the list to review. In justice
to our talented author, we must say, his work is one oftheﬁrst class; and to
all lovers of healthful exercises it will prove invaluable.”

Blackwood’s Lady’s Magazine for June, 1836.

“ Were We to follow the guidance of our own feelings, we should transcribe
a great part of this work, which has been introduced into our publisher’s
family with great success. Mr. Walker has a right to say of himself,

Vivi puellis nuper idoneus.
Gentleman’s Magazine fm‘August, 1836.

“ There are few works addressed to ladies which will afford them more
really useful information. Mr. Walker writes like a philosopher, a scholar,
and generally as a man of reﬁned taste.—The chapter on Deportment con-
tains new views of some very important matters connected with the forms
of fashionable society.”—Educational Magazine for February, 1836.

“ This well got-up work is calculated to do what the title promises. As the
ladies are sufﬁciently solicitous about their beauty, we need say no more to
induce them to become intimately acquainted with the volume.

Metropolitan Magazine for February, 1836.

“ It cannot be supposed that any lady will long remain a stranger to this
work, after learning that it is admirably calculated to do all that is promised
in the title.—Mr.Walker is labouring enthusiastically and successfully in
behalf of the most rational and important principles in the culture both of
mind and b0dy.—Monthl,z/ Review for March, 1836.

“ It is entitled to a place in the mother’s library who is anxious to make
her daughter an ornament to her sex, an honour to her race, and a ﬁne spe-
cimen of British woman.——New Monthly Magazine for March, 1836.

“ It is a plain, sensible treatise, free of trick and trumpery, and not
carried to extravagance; its important object being the prevention of de-
formity, and the improvement of the ﬁgure and deportment of young
women.”-—-Tait’s Magazine for February, 1836.

“ In families and schools, the volume must be invaluable.”

Family Magazine for February, 1836.

LONDON PAPERS.

“ Mr. Donald Walker has already conferred a beneﬁt on society by the pub-
lication of his Manly Emercises: that little volume, as may be supposed from
its title, Was for the use of the rougher division of the human race, and a
very useful directory it was to all persons to whom it was addressed, and to

 

 

65, ST. PAUL’S CHURCH-YARD, LONDON. xxix.

many of whom it has no doubt been productive of the most happy conse-
quences. He has now addressed a volume (Ladies’ Ewercises) to his fair
countrywomen, which is well worthy their acceptance, and likely to produce
very beneﬁcial results upon their health, and consequently upon their happi-
ness. Mr. Walker has had a very diﬂicult task to perform. It was essential
that his work should touch upon some subjects with which medical men only
are presumed to be conversant ; and it was also necessary that it should be
written in such a manner that it might with propriety be put into the hands
of the most modest female. The author has pezfm-med this task with great
felicity; there is nothing to wound delicacy; and yet there is no part ufhis sub-
ject left unnoticed which it was requisite ta develope.-—Mr. Walker has done
much to rescue the females of this country from awkwardness, deformity,
and disease. He has laid down rules for the attainment of activity, elegance,
and health; he has not been content with general directions for the security
of these advantages, but has descended into details, and conveyed in a
pleasing manner that information which has long been a desideratum in the
education of young ladies. It is a book of which every family should possess (L
copy, and with which the preceptress of every school should make herself
acquainted."— The Times of the 8th of February.

" Mr.Walker, as the author of a popular account of ‘ Manly Exercises,”
comes recommended for his knowledge of the subject. His ‘ Exercises for
Ladies’ is more valuable, and calculated to be inﬁnitely more useful; for it
is not conﬁned to exercise merely, but regulates the motions of the limbs in
action, the position of the body in repose, and in short the whole deportment.
—Donald Walker carries out his system into every exercise and employ-
ment: standing and lying down, the sedentary positions in writing, drawing,
and playing the harp or guitar, horse-riding, which we are glad to see he
does not approve of for ladies, walking, and dancing. Mr. Walker’s book
deserves a place in every family library. Attention to his suggestions would
make many a lovely girl more beautiful, and, what is of no small moment, more
comfortable to herself. If people look ungainly in going through the streets,
how much more so must they appear in entering a room full of company, or
joining a promenade?”—~The Spectator 0f the 9th of January.

“ Upon a former occasion, we strongly recommended to our readers a work,
called ‘ Walker’s Manly Exercises,’ compiled in the same spirit of useful-
ness as the present voiume.—In the present volume, Mr. Walker has devoted
himself with equal assiduity to the fair sex, and after showing, upon philo-
sophical principles, the innumerable evils arising from careless habits in
sedentary occupations, when not counteracted by healthful exercise. he pro-
ceeds to illustrate his subject by a number of plates of wrong positions, &c.,
in Which the evils he complains of have their origin, and to which many
deformities in the persons of our females are clearly traced.—The remedies
for these errors are given; and then Mr. Walker, in a series of papers, a1]
equally well illustrated by plates, suggests a variety of easy and graceful
exercises, in which the body and limbs are alike brought into healthful
action, and the symmetry of the whole effectually secured.”

Bell’s Life in London. 0fthe 9th of January.

“ This is an elegant little book; and its usefulness is stamped with the
authority of eminent medical and scientiﬁc men. Mr. Walker is known as
the author of a popular work on ‘ Manly Exercises,’ and in the present
volume, addressed to females, the author has produced a work which is likely

to prove of incstimable beneﬁt to the rising generation."
Frazer’s Literary Chronicle of the 16th of January.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

XXX. WORKS RECENTLY PUBLISHED BY T. BURST,

” There is much interesting matter in the book, and many valuable hints,
which are well deserving the attention of parents.”
The Observer of the 9th of January.

“ A book which ought to be in the hands of all mothers.”
The Globe of the 12th ofJanuary.

“As the mental culture of young women is slighted, so is their physical
education entirely neglected, or what is worse, in most instances perverted.
——-A1most the ﬁrst person to remove the evils now complained of, was the
author of the book before us. His work is an excellent, useful—nationally
useful, treatise on the deformities occasioned by careless instructors, and ill-
habits formed in the pursuit of the various branches of education.—-The
‘ exercises’ suggested by Mr. Walker, are of a nature well calculated to
counteract the effects of sedentary studies, and without being laborious, are
amusing and. e1egant.”—— Weekly Belle Assemblée 0f the 6th of February.

PROVINCIAL PAPERS.

“ Mr. Walker, who is already favourably known by his excellent treatise
on ‘Manly Exercises,’ has added another wreath to his reputation as an
author, by the present interesting and useful work. The subject 2's one of
peculiar delicacy ; but M'r. Walker has acquitted himself throughlmt his diﬁicult
task with much tact and address. Under Mr. Walker’s directions, an im-
proved system of Calisthenics may be taught, by Which it has already been
proved, that ladies may acquire strength, improved health, and more
elevated stature, as well as ease and grace in their movements and attitudes,
—-whiie many have been cured of deformities without any, the slightest,
accident resulting from it.—Kent Herald of the 2lst ofJammry, 1836.

“ This very difﬁcult and delicate work, although just published, appears
to have been read by many, and approved by all its readers. We learn,
from unquestionable authority, that its medical precepts have received the
strong approbation of several eminent practitioners, to whom it was sub-
mitted previously to publicati0n.—It is unnecessary for us to praise a work
which appears before the public with such recommendations as those we
have quoted from.”—Oxﬂn'd University Herald nfthe 16th of January.

“ The talented author of a popular account of ‘Manly Exercises,’
anxious to impart t0 the female sex a noble carriage and graceful ﬁgure,
Which will render them still more attractive, has written a volume on the
subjectwwhich its own importance and the knowledge of the author recom-
mend to our perusal. Every family library ought to embrace this work,
and we are convinced that ladies mm by wading it gain comfort to them-
selves, as well as render themselves more attractive to others.”

York Herald of the 23d othmuary.

“ The preservation of health and beauty is an art which interests the
whole human race; and equally interesting to all ought the volume to be
which teaches and illustrates that art. Mr.Walker has produced one of
the best and handsomest works on the subject that has fallen under our
review.—-Of the manner in which Mr.Wa]ker has executed his task, and
the utility of his ‘ Exercises’ for the improvement of health and beauty,
he has produced very ﬂattering testimonies from medical men of high
repute. As an excellent manual for young ladies, his book deserves extensive
circulation.”—Edinbu7'gh Advertiser of the 22d of January.

“ This work appears to have been dictated by the same kindly feeling
towards the full enjoyment of the various functions of the body as distin-

 

 

65, ST. PAUL’S CHURCH—YARD, LONDON. xxxi.

guished its predecessor, the ‘ Manly Exercises,’ by the same author.
Mr. Walker has directed his attention to that very common deformity, the
lateral curvature of the spinal column, exhibiting the various causes, and
suggesting remedies which must, in our opinion, be completely successful.
He very clearly shows to us, that in the evory-day occupations of life,
females, through a total unconsciousness that they are injuring themselves,
contract habits, which in the end deprive them of that due share of personal
beauty and elegance which they would otherwise possess.—-Mr. Walker’s
name would be a sufﬁcient guarantee for the excellence of any work of this
kind, but the one under notice also goes forth to the world strongly recom-
mended by eminent medical men, who have borne testimony to its practical
value and utility.”—Manchester Courier 0f the 23d of January.

“ It is not merely an entertaining, but a useful and important work—one
which should be perused, and the advice it contains shauld be carefullyfollowed
up by every young lady anxious to preserve an elegant shape and graceful
depwtment.”—Bristol Jom'mzl 0f the 16th of January.

“ Mr.Walker, the author of that popular book entitled ‘ Manly Exer-
cises,’ has at length turned his attention,——somewhat out of the order of
precedence, we must confess,—to the Ladies, and has presented us with a
volume intended to render still more graceful and enchanting that sex whom
some of our Iove-lorn readers will perhaps consider already sufficiently fasci-
nating. We can imagine a poor gentleman in this predicament addressing
Mr. Walker in the language of Waller—

‘ The adorning them with so much art
Is but a barbarous skill;

’Tis like the poisoning of a dart,
Too apt before to kill.’

H Mr. Walker has, however, a further defence, which is impregnable, in
the fact that his Exercises are calculated not only to increase beauty of form
and gracefulness of movement, but to promote and secure the invaluable bles-
sings of health and strengt .”—Halifat Guardian of the 23d ochmuary.

H Mr.Walker has this year advanced a further claim upon the patronage
of the public. His useful and excellent work upon ‘ Manly Exercises,’ is
followed up by a more delicate task, skilfully executed, in the beautiful
and pleasant little volume now before us.——Society demands, and our
reﬁned manners demand, the strictest attention to externals—for nothing is
more certain than that the particular appearances of objects submitted to the
eye determine, in a very great degree, the tastes ofa nation, and mould its
ideas into the most perfect form of moral loveliness. If we crowd out halls
with the best selected models which the classic Chisels of antiquity have
produced, how miserable and degrading is the contrast of homely distorted
living ﬁgures, compared with their exquisite symmetry! The dead, the
motionless marble, triumphs over the fascinations of beaming eyes and
beautiful countenances, because in the latter case the deformity of an old
hag is married to the face of an angel !-—To give nature a fair chance—to
correct bad habits, arising out of tight lacing, twisted postures, loftypillows,
and other deteriorating cuuses—to stimulate the functions of life—to deve-
lope the capabilities of the human frame—to give ease to the conﬁned
members—to aﬂ‘ord room for the nascent beauties to shoot up vigorously—
and by gentle exercises and by art, properly applied, to quicken graceful and
to correct injurious tendencies, are the objects of Mr.Walker’s labours.
With judgment and delicacy united, he has managed to concentrate all the

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

xxxii. WORKS RECENTLY PUBLISHED BY T. HURST,

lessons which experience has taught, as most useful in disciplining the tender

frames of our lovely countrywomen in the school of easy manners.”
Gloucestershire Chronicle of the 6th of February.

“ The want of due emel'cise, Mr. Walker proves, upon physiological prin-
ciples, leads not only to a general feebleness of the frame, and a bad or
imperfect development of the form, but also to mental debility and in tellec-
tual weakness. This, all experience testiﬁes to be the fact. To correct
such tendency in female education, Mr. Walker now publishes a system of
‘ Ladies’ Exercises} calculated to strengthen the constitution, and t0 develoye
the form, and give to it that grace of attitude and movement ofwhz'ch it is so
ewquisitely susceptible. This work we would recommend to the perusal and
close attention of all instructors of female youth, as well as of all parents.”

West Riding Herald of the 5th of February.

“After the sanction of so high a name as that of Dr.Birkbeck, Mr.
Walker’s book cannot be much enhanced by our humble testimonial; but
such as it is, we cordially tender it to him, in the sincere hope that his work
will receive that general attention which it so well deserves. 172 Ladies’
Schools, this little volume will be found ofeminent importance, as a most
useful elemental treatise on physical education; while to the adult female its
precepts will prove well worthy uf consideration. Beauty without health and
grace, loses more than half its charms{ and with health and grace, the
plainest become not merely agreeable but interesting.”

Devonport Independent of the 13m of February.

‘ ‘ If this sensible little volume were placed, as it ought to be, in the hands
of every young lady, and the rules and exercises it lays down- and recom-
mends, sedulously attended to, the avocations of those who teach ‘ elegance
and deportment’ would be at an end. We earnestly recommend this manual
to mothers and g0vemesses.”-—— Newcastle Journal of the 6th of February.

” Mr. Walker strikingly shews, that not merely elegance of carriage, but
the health and comfort of after-life depend very materially upon the poxltiom
in which the daily employments of youth are executed.——There is much
useful information expressed in an easy and familiar manner, which has
hitherto been too exclusively conﬁned to the dancing academy and the school
room.”—-Bm'_y Post of the 9th of March.

" This very clever work, founded on physiological principles, shows the
necessity of attendlhg to a Tight position, to prevent those disorders of the spine
which, latterly, have carried of so many of the youthful female population.
The work is admirably lllustrated.—leerpool Albion of the 15th of February.

“ The injurious consequences of carelessness in sitting, in the position in
which sleep is taken , in the manner of riding on horseback, &C., are pointed
out both by precept and engraved examples, which exhibit some startling
results brought about by very triﬂing causes, particularly the common but
very serious defect of crooked spine.

Newcastle Cauz'cmt of the 20th of February.

“ Its value chieﬂy arises from the author’s having founded his recom-
mendation and disapproval of particular exercises on the principles of phy—
siology. To the general correctness of his views on their individual ten-
dencies and effects, a high tribute is paid in letters addressed to him by Dr.
Birkbeck and Dr. Copland.”—Leeds Mercury of the 4th of June.

“ Déja l’an dernier nous avions recommandé d’une maniere particuli‘ere,
2‘1. cette turbulente moitié du genre humain qu’on appelle homme, les legons

 

65, ST. PAUL’S CHURCH—YARD, LONDON. xxxiii.

utiles et agréables réunies dans un charmant petit volume par M. Donald
Walker, pour l’amusement et la santé de son semblable qui veut absolument
nager quand i1 fait chaud, patiner quand i1 fait froid, et monter a cheval
quand il a du fain dans ses bottes : voici maintenant un travail non mains
complet du meme auteur en faveur des dames. Ce manuel leur enseigne une
foule d’exercices calculés pour préserver 1a beauté de celles qui ont 1e bon-
heur de la posséder, pour prévenir et corriger des défauts extérieurs venus
de mauvaises habitudes, exercices basés sur des principes physiologiques.
Cet ouvrage est indispensable d tout chef de famille, 8t nous en recommandans
chaudement l’acquisition a tout bon parentﬁer de sa progéniture.”
Panorama de Londres, 15, February-

III.
le't/z numerous Engravingsﬁ'om Designs by F. HOWARD.
GAME S AND SPORTS;

Consisting of In-Door Games, Out-of-Door Games, Games
and Sports ofthe Seasons, &c.; excluding only Games of Chance,
and Games 0r Sports that are either Childish 0r Dangerous.

BY DONALD WALKER.

IV.

DEFENSIVE EXERCISES, now preparing for the Press,
Will complete Mr. VValker’s System of PHYSICAL EDUCA~
TION.

V.
Being the First lVor/c of a System of Literary Educaiz'on,
READING AND WRITING,
OR IMPROVED SPELLING-BOOK ;

Conformably with Walker’s “Principles of Pronunciation,”
and with the views of Sheridan, Edg‘eworth, Bell, &c., as well
as With other methods, by which the earliest education is divested
ufits irrational, arbitrary, and repulsive character, and habits of
wrong pronunciation are, from the ﬁrst, rendered impossible.

BY DONALD WALKER.

APPROBA’I‘ION OF THE WORK.

“ We are of opinion that ‘ Walker‘s Reading and Writing, or Improved
Spelling Book,’ in consequence of its careful analysis, and clear exposition
of the elements of the English language, is better calculated than any other

 

 

 

XXXIV. W ORKS RECENTLY PUBLISHED BY T. HURST,

Work we have seem—to lighten the task both of teachers and pupils,~—to
make the acquirement of Reading easy,—and to produce everywhere an
uniformity of correct Pronunciation.
GEORGE BIRKBECK, l\I.D. F.G.S., President of the London Me-
chanics’ Institution.
ANTHONY CARLlSLE, F-R.S., Vice-President of the College of
Surgeons.
JAMES COPLAND, M.D.
JAMES FORD, Navestock Vicarage, Essex.
W. J. FOX.
GEORGE GLOVER, M.A.
JOHN GLENNIE GREIG, M.A., Academy, Leytonstone.
THOMAS WRIGHT HILL, F.R.A.S., Bruce Castle, Middlesex.
A. COPLAND HUTCHINSON, F.R.S.
JAMES MILL.>er
JAMES MITCHELL, LL.D.F.G.S.
L. NEUMEGEN, Academy, Highgate.
HENRY NORWICH."

The VE NERABLE the ARCHDEACON WRANGHAM honours the work by
writing ” I can conscientiously say that this work seems adapted to produce
the desirable results of making the acquirement of reading more systematic,
and of rendering the pronunciation of our language more uniformly correct."

The following are the expressions with which some of the gentlemen
whose names appear in the preceding List, have further honoured the
Workz~~

Dr. Copland says “ It is admirably done, and well calculated to be useful
even to the teacher. It will give a correct enunciation at the outset~a cir-
cumstance which, if not carefully attended to then, will be more or less -~
felt for ever afterwards. The Reading Lessons are the mostjudicious I have
yet. seen.”

The Reverend W13. Fox says, “ Your Improved Spelling—Book seems to
me richly to deserve that title.”

The Venerable the Archdeacon Glover says “ I am fully sensible of the
great pains bestowed on the constiuction of this work. The System is un—
questionably good, and the Analysis at once ingenious and useful.”

Mr. Greig says “ I consider Mr. Walker’s Book admirably calculated
both for master and pupil, and shall unquestionably introduce it into my
establishment, and call the notice of others to it, as far as lies in my
power.”

The Founder of the Schools of Hazlewood and Bruce Castle says, “ I have
carefully examined Mr. Walker’s Improved Spelling-Book, and with great
pleasure give my testimony to its merit, as to both plan and execution.
The book is an excellent instrument for teaching to read and spell. The
wretched inconsistency of our spelling with our pronunciation, or of our
pronunciation with our spelling, whichever horn of the dilemma we choose
to be gored with—-such miserable inconsistency, exposed in all its nudity by
the author’s able Analysis, renders the wish more fervent than ever that
there were in existence an enacting as well as a declaratory power that
could act upon the laws of language, and could gradually sweep away much
of that irregularity so harassing to children, ézc.

 

4' “ The Historian of India,” the author begs leave to append.

65, ST. PAUL’S CHURCH-YARD, LONDON. xxxv.

Mr. A. Copland Hutchinson says “ I am well convinced that the work
must eventually be the standard schooLbook in all our seminaries of
education."

The name of the Right Reverend the Bishop of Norwich, in the preceding
list, confers the sanction of one of the most enlightened, most upright, and
most benevolent of mankind.

OPINIONS CF JOURNALS.

“ This is one of a series of ingenious works by the same author, who
entertains the grand design of introducing a more rational mode of physical
as well as mental cultivation, than has as yet ever been practised. There is
much originality in his methods.—As to the present work, although we
cannot, in a short notice, explain its leading features, we, without hesitation,
declare that it goes to the root of the long established evils in the system
usually pursued in schools, both as to reading and speaking the English
language. Its tendency to produce a uniformity of correct pronunciation
everywhere, is apparent, and altogether it is a work of great merit, deserv-
ing mature and universal consideration.”—Monthly Review for March.

” Mr. Walker is a sensible elementary leader of the young; and this is a
meritorious spelling-book and guide for early tuition.”
Literary Gazette of the 13th of February.

“ Mr. Walker is well known as a zealous writer on the education of youth ;
and we sincerely recommend his new spelling-book. It possesses the merit
of being systematic; and the progressive advancement of the pupil must re-
ceive incalculable assistance from the order in which the lessons are here
arranged. To the teacher, great facilities are also afforded from the prac-
tical instructions preﬁxed to the divisions.”

Frazer’s Literary Chronicle of the 27th of February.

“ The author of the ‘ British Manly Exercises,’ and the ‘ Exercises for
Ladies,’ has produced one of the cleverest books on early education we ever
met with. The system is certainly original, and to us appears to be so good,
that we have little doubt in a short time it will become very general.”

Manchester Courier of the 13th of February.

H In no department of education has there been a greater improvement
than in that which has a direct reference to elementary instruction.—-—To the
accomplishment of this very desirable object, we have no hesitation in say-
ing, Mr. Donald Walker has, in his ‘ Reading and Writing, or Improved
Spelling Book,’ contributed in a very eminent degree.”

The Halifax Guardian of the 6th of February.

H Walker’s Reading and Writing, or Improved Spelling Book,” both for
teacher and pupil, comes to us sanctioned by the testimony to its great
merits, of the most competent judges—men venerable for their scholastic
attainments——their vast learning—and profound knowledge of the various
modes of mental instruction, from its commencement in early infancy to its
development in youth, and its ﬁnal result in mature age. To such a
testimony, it would be superﬂuous, perhaps intrusive, in us to offer the
addition of our mite of approbation. We must, however, do our duty to
the public by recommending this elementary work to the attentive con-
sideration of the teachers of youth of both sexes.”

West Riding Herald of the 5th of February.

 

 

 

'XXXVi. WORKS RECENTLY PUBLISHED BY T. HURST.

H We recommend this work to all parents and guardians. Its cost is
triﬂing, but the contents valuable. Seldom, indeed, have we seen so much
really useful matter in so small a compass: the subject, too, is alike im-
portant to the poor as well as the rich. This opinion is conﬁrmed by some
of the highest authorities.”——Sheﬁield Iris of the 5th of April.

‘I One of the most useful books which a teacher can put into the hands of
children, simplifying the complexity of the English language, which has
hitherto puzzled the ideas of children.”

Livaool Albion of the 15th of February.

“ The work deserves the most careful attention of teachers and parents,
with a view to the general diffusion of the improved system of instruction
which it propounds.”——Newcast1¢2 Courant of the 20th of February.

VI. and VII.

PRINCIPLES OF ENGLISH GRAMMAR and PRIN-
CIPLES OF ENGLISH COMPOSITION will form the next
two works in Mr.Walker’s System oleTERARY EDUCATION.

This day is published, price 35. 6d., illustrated by various plates,

ON DEFORMITIES of the CHEST; by WILLIAM
COULSON, Consulting Surgeon to the London Lying-ln Hos-
pital, late Surgeon to the General Dispensary, Fellow of the
Royal Medical Chirurgical Society, Member of the Hunterian
Society, and Corresponding Member of the Medico-Chirurgical
Society of Berlin.

“ This is a valuable contribution to surgical science.”-—Litemry Gazette.
"This little volume we earnestly recommend to the careful perusal of
every female who is at all capable of appreciating the blessing of health.”
Sunday Times.
-‘ We strongly recommend a perusal of this treatise to every parent, espe-
cially to every mother.”— Globe.

“ Mr. Coulson is entitled to the thanks of all parents for this seasonable
publication.”—M0rning Chronicle.

‘ ‘ On looking over the list we ﬁnd no fewer than 97 diseases produced by
stays, all of Which are attested by medical men. We hardly need, after
these appalling facts, request the attention of all good mothers and guardians
to this important subject.”—Moming Herald.

By the same Author, in the press, and speedily will be published, 4to.
ON DISEASE ofthe HIP JOINT, with numerous Engravings.

 

Printed by J. and C. Adlard, Bartholomew Close.

PREFACE.

FASHION AND FITNESS.

DRESS OR COSTUME CONSIDERED AS ONE OF
THE FINE ARTS.

As the human body never changes With regard to
its chief ‘members and features, it follows that
there are principles of dress Which reason may
determine; and, as every varied form and colour
of the dress investing the ﬁgure must modify
its character and expression, it further follows that
these modiﬁcations are the subjects of taste.

It is the characteristic and the criterion of all
the ﬁne arts, that their respective subjects possess
expression, and produce at once a deﬁnite, con—
sistent, and agreeable effect upon the mind: in
dress also this Will be found to be the case.

Hence dress, Which invests and decorates the
B

 

 

2 PREFACE.

body, would appear to be not less one of the ﬁne
arts than architecture, which gives it shelterf—‘or
landscape gardening, which surrounds it with
natural beauties 5 both of which belong to the same
class of these arts.

The principles on which dress produces these
effects are neither undeﬁnable nor actually vague.

Thus, as to form, we observe that objects
generally, when enlarged above and diminished
at the base, have, like the inverted pyramid,
an air of lightness, and an appearance of
heaviness when oppositely constructed; and the
same prevails in dress. A small head—dress and
lengthened. train become the stately matron, while
a large hat or bonnet, and a shorter dress, distin-
guish the livelier girl.

N or are colours less reducible to principles than
forms, as we shall see in the sequel.

In ancient Greece, dress was accordingly consi-
dered as one of the ﬁne arts. Its principles were
deﬁned; its inﬂuence on taste, on the arts, on
manners, and on morals; was duly appreciated;
and public ofﬁcers were even appointed to prevent
the Violation of its fundamental laws.

I think, then, with the Athenians, that the chess
and decoration of the human ﬁgure deserve to be
ranked as one of the ﬁne arts, not less than the
other arts of the same class, the construction of
houses, and the arrangement of gardens.

 

i
FASHION AND FITNESS. 3

ITS DEGENERATION IN MODERN TIMES.

Mr. Payne Knight has traced an interesting
portion of the progress of the art of dress. '

“From the age of Pericles,” he observes, “to
that of Hadrian, during a period of between ﬁve
and six hundred years, under the successive domi-
nation of the Athenians, the Lacedaemonian‘s; the
Macedonians, and the Romans, there was less
variation in the style and taste of imitative art,
through all the different states that composed
those empires, excepting only Egypt, than there
is, not only between those of any two schools, but
between those of any two successive ages of the
same school, in modern Europe.

“During all that period, also, a simplicity of
dress, bordering upon negligence, and even ap—
proaching to nudity, universally prevailed; and
any deviation from it was deemed a symptom of
barbarism and corruption of manners, unbecoming
a man of rank and education. Even the women,
during that period, never attempted to exchange
their native charms for the adscititious ornaments
of dress: for, though the limbs and body were
more or less concealed, as general custom, or indi-
vidual modesty occasionally required, they never
were so disguised, but that the general forms of a

B 2

 

 

 

4 PREFACE.

human creature were suffered to appear; Which is
not the case With a lady in stays and a hoop.

“About the age of Hadrian, the Roman women
of fashion began to dress their hair in fantastic
forms, Wholly unlike those of nature; and When
once disguise was thus mistaken for embellish—
ment, there was no longer any principle to check
the extravagancies of caprice. Consequently,
novelty and splendour were soon mistaken for
grace and elegance ; and, as the contagion
immediately communicated itself to the other
sex, all simplicity of taste in dress and manners,
and. With it all purity of style in art, were ba-
nished. ‘

“ It is not,” he adds, “the least extraordinary
circumstance in these revolutions, that they have
been the most violent, sudden, and extravagant in
the personal decorations of that part of the spe—
cies, Which, having most natural, has least need of
artiﬁcial charms, Which is always most decorated
When least adorned, and Which, as it addresses its
attractions to the primordial sentiments and in-
nate affections of man, would, it might reasonably
be supposed, never have attempted to increase
them by distortion and disguise. Yet art has
been wearied, and nature ransacked; tortures
nave been endured, and health sacriﬁced; and all
to enable this lovely part of the creation to appear

FASHION AND FITNESS. 5

in shapes as remote as possible from that in which
all its native loveliness consists.” ‘

Mr. Knight has omitted to observe that the
simplicity he so justly admires prevailed chieﬂy
while Greece and Rome were republics; and it is
not a little curious that, when France became
republican, she imitated their simplicity of dress.
It was soon after the beginning of the French
revolution, that the imitation of Grecian ’models
became very popular, and that the stiff and awk-
ward dress previously worn was laid aside for one
of greater simplicity and beauty. In its general
characteristics, that style of dress prevailed for
several years, not only in France but in the nations
that had imitated her; and the chief point in which
at any period there was variation, was in the
lengthening or shortening of the waist.

With their return to monarchy, the French
returned to a complex and less beautiful style of
dress.

It must be acknowledged, that in general the
natives of France too exclusively study the exterior,
and are too fond of a theatrical exhibition of them-
selves. French women, who are far from being good
looking, have, accordingly, employed a desperate
ingenuity in the improvement of their persons. The
graver people of other nations have, consequently,
given them credit for some skill and taste in dress;
and the more readily, because they falsely deemed

i
t
, I
‘ gr
3i i
g“
i “'1

 

 

 

6 PREFACE.

these objects frivolous in themselves, and unworthy
of any aid from philosophical principles.*

In modern times, then, dress has greatly dege—
nerated: the most ungraceful shapes, and the most
inconsistent combinations of colour have been
eagerly adopted.

So unnatural indeed has been the state of dress,
that Sir J . Reynolds observed—“ If an European,

*When he has cut off his beard, and put false hair
on his head, or bound up his own natural hair in
regular hard knots, as unlike nature as he can
possibly make it, and after having rendered them
immovable by the help of the fat of hogs, has
covered the Whole With ﬂour, laid on by a machine
with the utmost regularity; if, When thus attired,
he issues forth, and meets a Cherokee Indian, who
has bestowed as much time at his toilet, and laid
on With equal care and attention his yellow and red
oker on particular parts of his forehead 0r cheeks,

* It is remarkable that this credit existed chieﬂy as to female
dress. In male costume, Frenchmen, and especially those who
were least frivolous, generally followed English fashions. The
Editor of the Journal des Modes accordingly says: “Les pretin-
tailles de l’ancien regime nous conviennent d’autant moins, que
jamais une seule piece de notre habillement n’a été de notre in-
vention. Du temps d’Henri IV. 16 costume des Franeais était
Espagnol; sous Louis XIII. il était Flamand; Louis XIV. y
joignit 1a perruque de polichinelle. Sous Louis XV. i1 fut étran-
glé, et la taille de nos juste-au-corps montait ou descendait comme
21 présent au gré des tailleurs de L0ndres.”

FASHION AND FITNESS. 7

as he judges most becoming; whoever of these two
despises the other for this attention to the fashion
of his country, whichever ﬁrst feels himself pro—
voked to laugh, is the barbarian.”

ITS SUPPOSED WANT OF PRINCIPLE.—
ORIGIN OF FASHION.

The almost magical effects of fashion—the fact,
that a more beautiful dress, When out of fashion,
is less attractive than one of inferior beauty, made
according to the mode,—Wi11, by some, be deemed a
proof, that, in dress, public taste is not based upon
any principle, and sets at deﬁance all reasoning.

In reply, I must observe, that one of the
circumstances, namely novelty, which in dress
induces variations of taste, equally inﬂuences those
ﬁne arts, which we all allow are based upon ﬁxed
principles.

In gesture, sculpture, and painting, in rhetoricJ
poetry, and music, who, that feels at all, feels not
the charm of novelty? yet novelty never subverts
the principles of these arts. Can we then expect
that, in dress, of which the subjects as directly
address the senses, and as deeply interest the ima-
gination—can we expect that novelty should there:
cease to operate? is it not, on some accounts, rea—
sonable to expect that it should operate even more?

The same love of novelty, which is to a certain

 

 

 

 

8 PREFACE.

extent the parent of fashion, is also in some measure
the cause Why all classes are so industrious in
adopting its changes, Why fashion is so universally
followed, and Why the most awkward female is as
obedient to its mandates as the most genteel.

Another circumstance Which, in dress, induces
variations of taste, equally inﬂuences the other ﬁne
arts— namely, association. This secondary cause
has been observed also by a writer on taste,
Mr. Alison.

“ The inﬂuence of fashion,” says he, “ in pro-
ducing so frequent revolutions in the sentiments of
men, With regard to the beauty of those objects to
Which it extends, and in disposing us to néglect or
to despise at one time the objects Which we consi—
dered as beautiful before, may perhaps be explained
upon the same principle [of association] . . . They
[the dress, the furniture, the language, the man-
ners 0f the great world, constituting the fashionfl
are the signs of that elegance, and taste, and
splendour, Which is so liberally attributed to ele-
vated rank; they are associated With the conse-
quence which such situations bestow; and they
establish a kind of external distinction between
this envied station, and those humble and morti—
fying [conditions of life to which no man is Willing
to belong. It is in the light, therefore, of this con—
nexion only that we are disposed to consider them;
and they accordingly affect us with the same emo‘

FASHION AND FITNESS. 9
tion of delight Which we receive from the conside-
ration of taste or elegance in more permanent.
instances. As soon, however, as this association is
destroyed, as soon as the caprice or the incon—
stancy of the great have introduced other usages in
their place, our opinion of their beauty is immedi—
ately destroyed. The quality Which was formerly
so pleasing or so interesting in them, the- quality
Which alone we considered, is now appropriated to
other objects, and our admiration readily transfers
itself to those newer forms Which have risen into
distinction from the same cause. The forsaken
fashion, whatever may be its real or intrinsic
beauty, falls, for the present at least, into neglect
or contempt; because, either our admiration of it
was founded only upon that quality which it has
lost, or because it has now descended to the infe-
rior ranks, and is of consequence associated with
ideas of meanness and vulgarity. A few years
bring round again the same fashion. The same
association attends it, and our admiration is
renewed as before. , It is on the same account that
they Who are most liable to the seduction of
fashion, are people on Whose minds the slighter
associations have a strong effect. A plain man is
incapable of such associations; a man of sense is
above them; but the young and frivolous, Whose
principles of taste are either unformed, or Whose

.B 3

\

 

 

 

10 PREFACE.

minds are unable to maintain any settled opinions,
are apt to lose sight of every quality in such objects
but their relation to the practice of the great, and
of course to suffer their sentiments of beauty to
vary With the caprice of this practice.

Mr. Alison might have observed, respecting this

secondary cause of fashion, namely, association,
that, in dress, the union of beauty, 01~ kindness, 0r
Virtue, with a particular style of dress, produces a
complicated effect upon the mind, Which the weak
person is unable, and the enthusiast perhaps
unwilling, to unravel.
‘ Neither novelty nor association, however, is the
ﬁrst cause of fashion; and it is less curious that it
should have been overlooked by a philosophical
writer, than by a French lady writing professedly,
if not professionally, 0n the subject.

“When the sleeves called gigoz‘,” says she}
“ﬁrst made their appearance, every one exclaimed
against the bizarrerie of a fashion, Which not only
concealed the shape of the arm, but made it appear
larger than the waist. The ladies Who ﬁrst wore
these sleeves, lined with buckram for the purpose
of pufﬁng them oiit, appeared as if each shoulder
was enclosed in a balloon. Still this singular style
of sleeve is now very general, and no longer ap-
pears ridiculous: from custom, its elegance is
admitted even by those Who ﬁrst ridiculed it. We

FASHION AND FITNESS. 11

yield to the authority of the greater number, and
it would now be ridiculous not to follow a fashion
almost universal.

“ This is the history of almost all fashions; ex-
cept that sometimes, without any perceptible
reason, certain changes are not adopted. The
empire of fashion has its mysteries; but no fashion
is rejected because it is either singular or unbe-
coming. If you wear any thing neither suitable
to your ﬁgure nor elegant in itself, you say, ‘ it is
fashionable!’ After all,‘ perhaps, that does not
succeed, and you are forced to discard dresses
which imperious fashion had compelled you to
purchase at double their value.”

The true reason might have been observed by
both these writers, if they had duly considered the
expression of Rousseau: “Ugly women almost a1—
Ways introduce the fashions; and pretty women are
foolish enough to follow them.”* This statement
of a fact illustrates the reason Which I assign, and
Which I am sure is anterior both to novelty and to
association.

No fashion, then, exists Without a sufﬁcient
reason; and that reason always is the display of a
beauty, or the concealment of a deformity (gene—
rally the latter), on the part of her WhO introduces
the fashion. Some patroness of Almack’s, for

*‘ “Ce sont presque toujours de laides personnes qui aménent
1es modes, auxquelles les belles ont la bétise de s’assujeltir.”

 

 

12 PREFACE.

instance, has some charm Which she Wishes to
display, 01' some defect Which she is desirous of
concealing; and she accordingly introduces a
fashibn, Which is speedily followed by others, Who
regard her as the arbitress of every thing that is
elegant and tasteful. The very instance of gigot
sleeves, adduced by the French female Writer I
have just quoted, is an example of this: French
women are remarkable for thick waists, and these
sleeves were an excellent device for the conceal—

 

ment of such an excess.

These are the circumstances Which give rise to
ever—varying fashion; but they only modify, and
can never subvert, the principles of the art of
dress, because, as said at the outset, the human
body never changes Withiregard to its chief mem-
bers and features.

FASHION LESS INFLUENTIAL THAN FORMERLY.

At the present time, fortunately, no attention is
paid to the monthly advertisements of dress—
makers, and we are in a great degree undeceived

 

as to French taste, even in female dress. Some
knowledge of the human ﬁgure, and more frequent
reference to the immortal models of Grecian art,
tend perpetually to expose the want of taste exhi—
bited by our modern dress—makers, and the absur—
dity of that costume With Which French vanity has
often inundated Europe.

 

FASHION AND FITNESS. 13

“ The love of fashion,” says Rousseau, “ is a
proof of a vulgar mind, because countenances
change not With it; and, While the ﬁgure remains
the same, that Which suited it once suits it always.”
The moment, consequently, that the fashion is not
suited to the ﬁgure, its exaggerations and absurd
shapes are extremely ridiculous.

In regard to economy, indeed, ladies are now
aware that it is necessary to be select as to
momentary fashions, and to avoid the blind adop-
tion of shapes or forms s0 capricious as to render
useless the materialsof which they are composed,
the moment the fashion is no longer in vogue.
This precaution is the more necessary, as such
foolish waste of both time and money only ensures
a vulgar appearance.

PRINCIPLE REGULATING THE ADOPTION OF
FASHIONS—FITNESS.

In dress, ﬁtness is a matter of still higher con-
sideration than economy.

I would not even say, that before adopting new
fashions, we should wait till they are completely
established. On the contrary, the moment the
latest fashion presents that Which is really suitable,
let it be adopted. But to judge of What is suitable,
requires knowledge and taste‘—ability to make the
fashion subservient to our means of pleasing, and.

 

~¢

 

!
ﬂ“

 

l4 PREFACE.

not to sacriﬁce our means of pleasing to the fashion,
skill to use our advantages Without appearing to
affect it, and taste to regulate every thing in our
dress by the particular. style of beauty Which
nature may have beneﬁcently bestowed upon us.

If, for instance, a lady is of the middle size,
and her complexion neither dark nor fair, she Will
not adopt a style of dress suitable to a tall or to a
short person, to a blonde or to a brunette, but Will
modify the fashion to suit her own ﬁgure and com-
plexion. To the peculiarities of each and every
woman, there is adapted a peculiar modiﬁcation
of dress, admitting, however, in its details, of suf- .
ﬁcient variety. Its character, if I may so speak,
Will be one and the same: its expression Will dif-
fer. By this means, she Will approximate in style
of dress to those she most resembles in style of
beauty. Of this the woman of taste Will avail
herself, to produce those admirable effects Which
are not easily understood by the vulgar.

However imperiously fashion may require it, no
lady of taste Will submit to wear a dress so low
as to compress her bosom, or so high as to be
level With the shoulder—blades, or so long as to
reach the hips, especially if she be tall, or in
colour unsuited to her complexion. Such mis—
takes would invariably raise a smile on the face of
the best-natured person.

Sometimes it is the fashion to have the skirt of

p

FASHION AND FITNESS. lo

the dress trailing on the ground; and soon after it
is fashionable to wear it so short as not to reach
the ankles. A11 extremes are bad. If the gown
be too long, the wearer has the appearance of being
embarrassed; the gown is always in the way, is
soon soiled, and quickly worn out. If too short, it
destroys all elegance of shape, makes the wearer
appear stunted, and gives her the air of an opera
ﬁgurante. Surely no lady should reduce herself
to either of these extremes!

In regard to sleeves, as another example; if the
hand be thin and long, no lady Will wear them
tight at the wrists.

In the arrangement of the hair, likewise, the
prevailing mode should never be followed, unless
it perfectly accords With the shape and character
of the face ; and of this, most ladies are far better
judges than their hair-dressers.

A11 superabundance 0f ornament, broad trim~
mings, ill-assorted colours, eccentricity of style,
and modes of arrangement not in accordance with
the character of the shape and features, should be
modiﬁed to this way: otherwise the toilet ceases to
be under the guidance Oftaste, and the fashionable
lady and the country hoyden Will appear equally
ill—dressed.

It often happens that a particular fashion has
been invented for a lady of greater or less pecu-
liarity of ﬁgure. The peculiarity, indeed, may be

 

 

 

 

 

16 PREFACE.

so great as to render it utterly incapable of any
modiﬁcation at all suitable to the greater number
of women; for it is those extreme peculiarities
that frequently originate fashion. In such a case,
no attempt at modiﬁcation must be made.

Thus, although it would be wrong not to com-
ply with any fashion which may suit our individual
and peculiar ﬁgure, or Which may be well adapted
to it by due modiﬁcation, it must be altogether
abandoned when it would either destroy, or in
any degree obscure, our natural advantages. In
this case, we have the same right to reject, that
others have to adopt 5 and we should be silly in—
deed to surrender our prerogative.

ART OF IMPROVING DRESS, AND RENDERING
IMPROVEMENT FASHIONABLE.

One of the best means of improving dress, and
of rendering the improvement fashionable, is to

add, to a knowledge of the ﬁgure and its motions,

an examination of the dress of past years or ages,
and especially of the costume 0f the ancient Greeks,
as delineated in the beautiful work of Mr. Hope.
None will for a moment seem antiquated—all will
be strikingly beautiful—all Will be quickly followed,
which are well adapted to the ﬁgure, and which
are tastefully applied to it.

If there be any doubt of this, let the experiment,

COSMETICS AND CLEANLINESS. 17

be made. It never fails When made by a woman
who possesses a good ﬁgure, Who dresses well,
and Who complies With the conditions mentioned
in the preceding paragraph. When this is done
in London, the only wonder is the rapidity With
Which adoption takes place. So great, indeed, is
this, that, during the London season, a week
Will scarcely elapse from the day of the public
exhibition of such a dress, until it is evidently
followed. To ensure extensive success, it should
be applicable to some one class of ﬁgures.

In this way, fashion may be brought nearer to
the best models, and may acquire a character less
variable, unbecoming and ridiculous.

COSMETICS AND CLEANLINESS.

COSMETICS.

The word Cosmetics is applied to preparations
used for the purpose either of cleansing and puri-
fying the skin, or of artiﬁcially embellishing and
giving it a factitious colour. I shall here use the
term as signifying only the artiﬁcial, complex,
costly, and inefﬁcient means.

The best of these are mere decoctions, pastes,
pomades, &c. Which have no claim to the porn—

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

. 18 , PREFACE.

pous titles with which ignorance and quackery
decked them out.

MECHANICAL MEANS.

In ancient times, means more mechanical were
sometimes employed. After the bath, pumice-
stone was used to polish and soften the skin;
chieﬂy, perhaps, to rub off the thickened cuticle
from the under parts of the feet.

In the East, even in modern times, we are told
that there is no labourer’s 0r peasant’s wife who
has not a colour as fresh as the rose, a skin so
delicate and white, so polished, and so smooth,
that it feels to the touch like velvet; and that this
is effected by making a kind of ointment of the
earth of Ohio, with which they anoint their bodies,
as well as their face and hair, on going into the bath.

BATHS OF MILK.

Baths of milk were in great repute amongst the
ancients as a cosmetic. The notorious Poppea
kept ﬁve hundred asses, the milk of which was
used solely for her toilet.

Milk and cream are doubtless preferable to most
other applications; but still they are dirty, clog the
skin, and injure it in the end. Nature certainly
never meant that people should plaster their food
over the outside of their bodies.

COSMETICS AND CLEANLINESS. 19

PASTES.

The Roman ladies in the time of the Empire
were much addicted to the use of cosmetic pastes.
These were composed of gums, a sort of clayey
earth, and substances Which adhered so closely to
the skin that they could not be removed Without
causing great pain. So anxious, however, were
they to improve their cotnplexions, that they
eagerly adopted any preparation, however inju-
rious, and however disgusting.

J uvenal, speaking of the depravity of the ladies
of his age, says, that When they were at home
alone, or had no other company but their husband,
the face presented a most disgusting appearance,
being plastered all over With some unctuous
cosmetic.

Poppea invented a cosmetic, Which went by her
name. It was a mixture ofwheaten ﬂour, honeyJ
and asses’ milk, boiled together, and was applied
to the face at night. In the morning, it was
washed off With lukewarm water.

Boetiger, in his Sabina, says, “ The evening
before going to bed, she plastered her face, accord-
ing to the fashion of the times, With a paste made
of bread steeped in asses’ milk, the invention of
the notorious Poppea, the Wife of Nero, Whose
name was given to that incrustation for softening

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

20 PREFACE.

the skin. This plaster dried during the night,
and Sabina, at the moment of waking, appeared
as if she had a head of plaster, covered With
crevices and chinks.

Pastes, says a writer of some authority, “act
by means of a very ﬁne unctuous substance that
they leave on the skin, Where it preserves a soft
and. moist warmth, two circumstances very favour—
able to this organ. That Which is used for
night—gloves, is an unctuous coating Which pre—
serves the surface of the parts to Which it is
applied from atmospheric irritation and oxigena—
tion, and, at the same time, prevents the escape
of the warmth and moisture from the skin: there
are few methods that etiolate it better, and produce
greater suppleness and whiteness.”

But he adds, “ these plasters, Which are in use
at the present day, derive their consistency from
a concrete oil, such as spermaceti 0r wax, or from

’ and he confesses that “wax and

metallic oxides 3’
spermaceti irritate the skin, and even occasion
chaps.” The effect of metallic oxides we shall
see in the sequel.——-Independent of either, it
is evident that external applications that remain
for any length of time 011 the face, interrupt the
natural functions of the skin, in absorbing, per— /
spiring, &e. and both irritate it at ﬁrst, and debili—

tate it in the end.

COSMETICS AND CLEANLINESS. 521

U NCTUOUS COMPOSITIONS.

When the skin has become dry by the applica-
tion of irritating preparations, the impostors Who
deal in these commodities tell us that creams,
pomatums, &c., oily compositions made of butter,
melted fat, and marrow, Will restore the pliancy
and whiteness of the skin. Nay, some of them.
direct us to use both the irritant and emollient
at once, oils at night, and spirits in the morning!
It is obvious how brief must be the duration of
any complexion under this twofold inﬂiction.

Fresheream is at least preferable to the rest of
these preparations, which, on account of the wax
they contain and their superoxigenation, can never
be suitable to females Whose skin is dry and irri-
table. But even this application, as already said,
is dirty, as well as useless.

Some persons fecommend unctuous substances
only after the bath, in order to soften the skin
and remedy the wrinkling Which occurs if we
remain too long in the water. There can be
no doubt that the use of scented oil, after the
bath, renders the skin more supple, prevents the
contact of the air, and might be useful among
people Who were but lightly clothed, especially if
exposed to dust, 8:0. But every 0in substance
obstructs transpiration, and in this respect must

6

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

22 PREFACE.

always be hurtful. Besides, oily bodies are liable
to become rancid, and irritate the skin.

The bath of modesty (so called because a female
could there confess herself and receive Visits), the
formula for Which is very complicated, may be
made With a quantity of almond paste, sufﬁcient
to dim the transparence 0f the water, and give it
a milky appearance, and is recommended as soften—
ing the skin, and preventing the water from mace-
rating it, as sometimes happens When remaining
in it too 10ng.-—But this is only a device for at
once cleaning and dirtying the skin.

Oily applications Which contain White or red
lead stop up the pores, prevent the performance
of their functions, give to the face an unpleasant
glitter, and speedily destroy the beauty of the
complexion.

Professor Chaussier gives the following as a
recipe for making the pits of the small—pox less
perceptible:——Camph0rated Nuremburg plaster,
l drachm; sufﬁcient quantity of olive oil to soften
the plaster, and reduce it to the consistence 0f
pommade ; spread upon blotting paper, and cut
into islips. This recipe is quite inefﬁcient, except
in causing the injuries already described.

COSMETICS AND CLEANLINESS. 23

ACID AND SPIRITUOUS COMPOSITIONS.

Many of the pretended cosmetics sold by
general perfumers, and by a great number of
ignorant persons Who call themselves Chemist‘s,
are composed of acids and spirits; and very fre—
quently they are nothing but Vinegar or spirits
of Wine scented. Even eau de Cologne, so much
vaunted and so much used, is nothing else than
spirits of Wine distilled through a few unimportant
aromatic herbs: honey water, Hungary water, &c.
are made in the same way.

Vinegar and spirits do certainly clean the skin;
but the frequent use of them dries and contracts
it. The delicate tissue of the cuticle requires the
imperceptible unctuous moisture that nature eX—
hales; and this the application of acids and spirits
destroys.

Astringent Vinegars, especially those that have
been so much praised of late, derive their property
from a certain quantity of alum, in a state of solu-
tion. Now, alum possesses an astringent pro-
perty, Which produces great tension of the skin;
at ﬁrst, it appears brilliant and polished 5 but
it soon loses its elasticity, and premature or
deeper wrinkles are the infallible result of the use
of this saline substance.

Even soap, on account of the uncombined alkali

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

5'24: PREFACE.

which it contains, should not be used to the
skin, except When water is not sufﬁcient. The
alkali dries and chaps the hands. HOW wrong
then is it to give the following recipe for improv—
ing their beauty:——“After the hands have been
soaped and rinced, it is best, before drying them, to
cover them again well With soap, to rub the hands
till a lather is made, and then to dry them Without
putting them again in the water: by this means
the skin becomes very White and extremely soft.”
It is needless to say that the effect on the skin is
but temporary: the injury permanent.

METALLIC AND POISONOUS COMPOSITIONS.

These injuries are triﬂing compared With those
which are produced by the use of metallic compo—
sitions. It is a fact that the most deleterious sub—
stances enter into the composition of all creams,
powders, pastes, and essences. “All those I have
ever seen,” says Hufeland, “contain either mer-
cury or lead, Which are two most powerful
poisons.” The composition Which some persons
have had the hardihood to employ for the purpose
of eﬁ'acing the marks of the small—pox, actually
contains corrosive sublimate!

We are told indeed that “metallic oxides, and
even White lead, may be used Without danger, if
the plaster in Which they are mixed be sufficiently

COSMETICS AND CLEANLINESS. 25

well made not to be decomposed upon coming
in contact With the skin 5” and that “ plasters in
Which there is a mixture of oxide of lead and other
metallic oxides, are preparations commonly used
in surgery.”—Surgical applications are determined
by the urgency of the case, and are of short dura—
tion: but the application of cosmetics is frequent,
or almost permanent ; and it is well ascertained that
these poisonous substances enter through the
pores into the circulating ﬂuids, in the same
manner as by the stomach.

In our days, happily, few persons habitually
use these compositions. Still, too many females,
Who are troubled With an oily 0r scaly skin, red
spots, pimples, or extreme paleness, are induced
to put faith in the dazzling promises of Charlatans
and perfumers.

In every instance, these pretended remedies
entail most dangerous consequences, especially
When they are employed for certain cutaneous
affections Which arise from a disordered state of
the system, and Which are, as it were, an effort of
nature to reestablish 0r preserve the health.

If lead be once introduced into the animal
system, although in a very small quantity, it can
never be neutralised by art, and never fails to pro—
duce the most deplorable effects. Paralysis, con—

traction and convulsion 0f the limbs, loss of
c

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

26 PREFACE.

strength, and the most painful cholies, are its most
ordinary effects.

We may easily imagine that health and beauty
are incompatible With the existence of such
maladies.

A distinguished painter in London lately ap-
plied to Sir Anthony Carlisle, about a palsy of the
hand and tongue. On inquiry, Sir Anthony found
that the patient, in one of his processes, habitually
rubbed a sugar of lead drying oil, With the middle
ﬁnger. By abstaining from the practice, he for—
tunately got well.

Even before these consequences show themselves,
the complexion becomes dull and tarnished, and
the skin appears faded, wrinkled, and ghastly.
As soon as the deluded dupe removes the paint
from her face, she sees in her glass a skin so
wrinkled, and a countenance s0 ghastly, that she
redoubles the application of cosmetics, till she has
ﬁnally ruined her complexion and destroyed her
health.

The employment, says the same scientiﬁc sur-v
geon, of nitrate of silver for the pretended cure of
epilepsy, Which it does not effect, is well known
to produce a horrid livid colour of the skin, which
remains during life.

 

COSMETICS AND CLEANLINESS. 27

BATHS TOO COLD 0R TOO HOT.

Even baths, if too cold, or too hot, are injurious
to beauty, by creating excessive irritation of the
skin.

Cold bathing rarely agrees With slender or
delicate females; nor in general With persons
accustomed to an idle and sedentary life. It is
injurious also to aged persons, in Whom the faculty
of producing caloric is not sufﬁciently active to
cause an energetic reaction. The power of reaction
is in proportion to the strength of the individual.
It is slow With weak persons, Who With difﬁculty
recover warmth, tremble for a long time, totter,
and sometimes suffer acute pain in the head.

I need scarcely say that the cold bath must
always be hurtful, When, either from the tempera—
ture being too 10W, 01‘ from the susceptibility of the
individual, it causes a painful sensation.

The cold bath Will also be injurious to every
person affectedwith natural secretions, 0r cutaneous
diseases, susceptible of being driven back.

As cosmetics," cold baths are useful only to
women of a full or sanguine habit; and even they
ought not to employ, unless habituated to it from
a very early age, water at a temperature much
below that of the body. In other cases, they always
contract the skin, harden it, and render it scaly.

C 2

 

 

117‘“.

28 PREFACE.

Baths in the open air, and swimming, from
which health and medicine derive sometimes the
most happy eﬁects, gradually discolour the skin.

Cold ablutions applied to the head of a person
not accustomed to them are also very liable to

bring on headach, inﬂammation of the throat, &c.

Washing the face With cold water, or stimulating
liquids, especially destroys the freshness of the
skin and face, in consequence of the reaction which

 

&

it excites.

The impression of dry heat, caused by sitting
near the ﬁre, immediately after the face has been
washed in cold water, increases the reaction of
the skin, and often produces, especially on the
eyebrows, a kind of scurfy irritation, Which fre—
quently cannot be eradicated, except in summer,
and even then the complete cure may be rendered
difﬁcult.

Chaps ;and chilblains in children are also pro—
duced by cold abiutions applied to the parts Which
remain uncovered, and followed by exposing the
hands to the ﬁre.

As to all parts, very cold baths; (and the same
is true of very warm ones) always alter the colour,
harden the skin, and make it scaly, effects which
females should particularly avoid in the local ablu—
tions of the face, hands, neck, bosom, and feet.

Washing the feet in cold water sometimes

 

 

 

 

 

suppresses natural secretions, 0r prevents their

 

COSMETICS AND CLEANLINESS. 29

appearing. If, ’on the contrary, the person be
aecustomed to wash her feet in cold water, and if
she experience no painful impression, she is placed
in no danger.

Hot baths relax and weaken the ﬁbres, and
render the individual liable to colds.

Nothing is more likely to awaken many irrita—
tions, than baths taken at too high temperature.

The effects of a hot bath are evidently debilita-
ting. The body loses too much in such a bath.
Baths heated to above 110 degrees have lately, in
several instances, been known to produce imme—
diate insanity. '

SHAMPOOING.

To give readers an idea of the practice of sham—
pooing as it exists in many nations, I shall repeat
here What Anquetil says concerning shampooing
among the Indians. “ One of the servants of the
bath stretches you on a plank, and sprinkles you
With warm water. He next presses the Whole body
With the palms of his hands, and cracks the joints
of the ﬁngers, legs, arms, and other members. He
then turns you over on your stomach; kneels upon
the bins; and taking hold of the shoulders, makes
the spine crack by acting upon all the vertebrae,
and strikes some sharp blows upon the most ﬂeshy
and muscular parts,” &c.

 

 

 

30 PREFACE.

If we believe What has been said of this custom
by all the travellers Who have experienced its eﬁ'ects,
it produces a sensation of great comfort, is useful
in removing fatigue, and dissipates that stiffness
which all the muscles, When kept too long in a
state of repose, experience. After three quarters
of an hour, the individual feels himself perfectly
refreshed.

Leaving all the marvellous eﬂ’ects attributed to
this shampooing, it Will readily be granted that
these manipulations are calculated to increase the
action of the skin, to favour the circulation of the
blood in parts debilitated by a long repose, and to
render the joints supple. But this cannot be done
Without debilitating, and producing wrinkles of
the skin. _

TOOTH-POWDERS.

These preparations, Which rapidly clean the
teeth, always end by destroying the enamel, Which
is incapable of resisting the acids, alum, sorrel, tar-
tar, &c. employed in their composition.

Acids in general whiten the teeth, in the same
manner as aquafortis acts upon Lcoloured marble,
namely, by destroying its polish and solidity. In
Whatever manner acids are used, they quickly
corode, burn and discolour the teeth.

Among the acids employed in food, Vinegar is

 

COSMETICS AND CLEANLINESS. 31

not the only one that injures the teeth; all acid
substances produce this effect; and the acids of
unripe fruits are not less active or fatal than
others.

If opiates contain any of these acids, or any of the
destructive powders about to be mentioned, they
are pernicious: if they are composed only of honey
and perfumes, they are useless.

Powders and opiates for the teeth, especially
when they are acid, also discolour and blemish the
lips. 7

Other tooth powders are composed of powdered
coral, seed pearl, crabs’ eyes, terra sigillata, pumice—
stone, cuttle-ﬁsh bone, burnt egg-shells, and even
pulverized porcelain,—coloured With a small quan—
tity of lake or carmine.

These powders act as rapidly and “sometimes
more injuriously than acids, because the repeated
rubbing, Which accompanies their use, not only
wears off the enamel, but also removes the gums
from the root of the teeth.

The Roman ladies used to chew mastic, a kind
of odoriferous gum, rather bitter, and extracted
from the lentisk by incision. This custom is
still prevalent in the East. Females in our coun—
tries are not so fond of perfumes; and therefore
it is not probable that the mastication of aromatics
will ever become general.

 

A :2

 

' V _ A

I
l

;

_ ‘32—:

\

 

 

3‘2 PREFACE.

HAIR OILS.

If the hair has once fallen off, all the prepara-
tions ever invented, such as Macassar oil, bear’s
grease, marrow, &c. will never restore it, and all
hair—dressers are knaves that assert the contrary.

The more artful 0f the fraternity, When they ﬁnd
that they are treating With intelligent persons,
limit themselves to saying that strong stiﬂ’ hair
Which stands out from the head, certainly requires
the application of oil more than hair Which is
moist. But the hair has its own oil, Which gives it
all the gloss Which can safely be given to it, all
indeed that can be desired.

As the hair conducts a particular secretion, the
custom of wearing a Wig, cutting the hair too short,
or allowing it to grow too long, may produce
remarkable effects on the constitution. The appli-
cation of even an inert substance to the hair, as
well as the sudden impression of cold, may impede
its secretion.

Hence it is that, by employing unguents too
frequently, the hair is destroyed: instead of being
nonrished (Which it can be only by its natural
vessels and not by ﬁlthy applications), it is suﬂ’o—
cated; the pores are obstructed; and violent pains
in the head warn us too late of the danger of these
applications.

COSMETICS AND CLEANLINESS. 33

Spirituous liquors also, such as eau de cologne,
spirit of lavender, &c. dry the hair, corrode it, and
contribute either to render it brittle, or make it fall
off quickly.

CONCLUSION.

From What has been said, it is evident, that the
use of a vast number of pretended cosmetics,
instead of embellishing, destroys the natural bril—
liancy of the tint, and Withers the most blooming
and the softest skin.

The ancients were not ignorant of the inefﬁcacy
of these cosmetics. “ The greater part,” says
Celsus, “ 0f the most celebrated cosmetics are
merely a foolish amusement, and pure quacker ’;
it is useless to hope to remove tan, freckles, red—
ness, and much more wrinkles from the face; but
women are so desirous of adding if possible to their
natural beauty, and so anxious to avoid the
appearance of old age, that it is impossible to over—
come in them this desire, or to persuade them of
the uselessness of all those ﬁne secrets, known by
the name of cosmetics.”

This shows the antiquity of such delusions.
But this argument is feeble compared with that
derived from the positive injury Which cosmetics
inﬂict, andwhich modern physiology and chemistry

convincingly establish.
0 3

 

 

 

 

 

34 PREFACE.

CLEANLINESS

is the chief subject of the Second Part of this
work.

ARTIFICIAL PAINTS AND NATURAL
COMPLEXION.

PAINTS.

Numerous are the preparations of White to
improve the complexion, of black to dye the hair,
of blue to deﬁne the veins, of red to colour the
cheeks, of balsams to give brilliancy to the eyes, of
carmine to colour the lips, &c. The most remark—
able is the paint Which is meant to supply the
place of the natural colour and the whiteness of
the skin.

A circumstance very remarkable in our history,
is that the vanity, Which makes us attach so much
consequence to the lustre of the skin, inﬂuences
savages as well as civilized persons; With this
difference, however, that, among the latter, women
paint their faces through a desire ofpleasing,whi1st,
among savages, men paint less to improve their
beauty than to give themselves a warlike appear-
ance.

ARTIFICIAL PAINTS. 35

In the early ages of the Roman republic, the
women,Wh0 possessed the austere manners of their
husbands, were ignorant of the various mysteries
of the toilet, and 0f the use of paint: the Lucretias,
Veturias, Cornelias, and Portias, never sought to
heighten the natural colour of their faces. Laxity
0f manners, however, introduced the use of paint
among them; and, in the application of it, they
imitated and soon surpassed the Grecian women.

The Roman women generally used White lead in
spite of its injurious qualities, Which were known
even then.

Venus herself has been sacrilegiously repre~
sented as employing paint in her toilet: a cameo
of the Villa Albani represents her half naked, sur-
rounded by the Graces, Who are engaged in
adorning her: one of them holds a little box half -
opened, shaped like those in Which the Roman
women kept their rouge; and. the Goddess is
pointing out With her finger the place to Which
they are to apply the paint.

OF WHITE METALLIC PAINT.

For White mineral paints, the preparations of
bismuth and lead are generally used, in spite of
their deleterious properties and the disadvantage
they labour under of changing colour When exposed
to the contact of sulphuretted hydrogen gas,because

 

 

 

 

36 PREFACE.

these alone resemble the soft brilliancy of a beau-
tiful complexion. -

In the ﬁrst place, however, they remain powdery
on the parts to Which they have been applied, or
if they do not, they melt With the perspiration, and .
streak the face. .

In the second place, being the product of acids
of bismuth, 01' of lead, they are subject to rapid
changes Which frequently produce, to the great
horror of the wearer, effects totally different from
those intended.

The sulphureous exhalations With Which the air
is sometimes impregnated, suddenly turn these
preparations black upon the skin; and this altera-
tion remains as long as the exhalation from the
pores continues.

This accident would be likely enough to take
place in any theatre Where chemical lectures are
delivered, or wherever medicated baths are taken.

In the third place, this White paint obstructs
the pores, tarnishes the skin, and in a short time
furrows the face With ineffaceable wrinkles. If any
chaps 0r ﬁssures eXist upon the skin, they greatly
increase the dangerous effects of these substances.

OF RED METALLIC PAINT.

Red mineral paint or rouge is composed of
vermilion rubbed down With Briangon chalk.

aw

ARTIFICIAL PAINTS. 3/

This paint is very dangerous, if any portion of its
poisonous substance be absorbed by the pores. It
corrodes and loosens the teeth.

Every mineral paint, says the Dictionary of
Medical Sciences, is a poison, and the smallest
inconvenience it Will cause, after the destruction
of the skin, is the loss of the teeth, and foul breath.

These paints, however, White lead and vermilion,
are now used chieﬂy at theatres.

OF WHITE EARTHY PAINT.

White earthy paint, is made of talc, an aluminous
substance, or of Briangon chalk.—Its inconveni-
ences are manifold.

In the ﬁrst place, like many other mineral
substances, it is reddish or bluish, dull or glitter-
ing, and never resembles a natural White.

In the second place, these bodies, reduced to an
impalpable powder, introduce themselves into the
skin, and tarnish it, by obstructing the pores, and
by mixing With the insensible perspiration, Which
they diminish to the injury of the health.

The celebrated chemist M. Thenard observes,
that ﬂowers of zinc, Which would supply a White
metallic paint perfectly harmless and not expensive,
present only a dull White, altogether unlike the
natural colour; and that talc, 0r Briangon chalk,
diluted With Vinegar, frequently washed to separate

 

 

38 PREFACE.

the acid, and reduced to an imp'alpable powder,
would produce a white earthy paint quite innoxi-
ous, but of a metallic gloss, far from being an imi—
tation of the soft and milky reﬂections of a youthful
and fresh complexion. These substances, adds
he, cannot, therefore, be used separately; but by
mixing them in equal parts, a cheap, innocent and
durable White might easily be prepared. This may
be mixed With wax, oil, or pommade.

But M. Thenard forgets that all bodies that ﬁll
the pores of the skin obstruct ”transpiration, and
produce very injurious effects.

OF RED VEGETABLE PAINT.

Vegetable rouge is generally obtained from the
roots of orchanet, madder, sandal, and Brazil wood,
and especially from the stamina of the carthamus,
and from cochineal, an animal substance.

The rouge from the Carthamus, Which is called
Spanish rouge, because it was ﬁrst prepared in that
country, and rose en tasse, or pink saucer, because,
«as a precipitate, it is known under that name in
trade, is now the principal basis of red. paints. It
is With this precipitate, Which may be bought
cheap at the grocers, druggists, and colour dealers,
that different sorts of rouge are prepared.

It is used in powder, in pommade, in crepons 0r
gauze; and in liquid.

ARTIFICIAL PAINTS. 39

For rouge in powder, they take talc reduced to
an impalpable powder, and mix it With the rose en
tasse, pounding this mixture carefully With a few
drops of olive 0r ben oil, to make it soft and thick.
The beauty and the value of rouge, in trade, depends
upon the ﬁneness of the tale, and the proportion of
the rose en tasse. It is then placed in small galli-
pots in a very thin layer.

The powder is applied to the cheeks by means
of a little bag or ball of cambric or muslin.

This method has some inconveniences: perspi—
ration streaks the rouge, and a lady cannot receive
a salute Without losing some of her complexion.

A pommade of this red paint is easily obtained,
by adding a proper quantity of precipitate of
carthamus to a mixture of White wax and soft
pommade.

It is spread on the face With the ﬁnger, and
rubbed in till it ceases to feel greazy: it Will resist
moisture and even a slight touch.

This is perhaps the most favorable and the most
agreeable form in Which this rouge can be used.

Rouge en crépons are pieces of gauze or silk or
crape (whence the name) Which are rolled up so as
to form a ball, and which have been previously
steeped in rouge.

These crepons last a long time; and they are
not more objectionable than any other powder.

Liquid rouge heightens the colour of the skin,

6

 

 

 

4O PREFACE.

has the appearance of the natural complexion, and
adheres a long time to the face.

The brilliancy, however, thus produced, is after-
wards dearly paid for: this vegetable rouge is very
injurious to the skin, in consequence of the acids
which are employed in its composition.

The green red is simply rose en tasse poured,
Whilst still moist, into rouge pots, where, on
becoming dry, it assumes naturally an olive green
tinge, Which changes to a lively red When it is
moistened With a little fresh water;

As all these rouges preserve a portion of the juice
of the Citron employed in manufacturing them from
the carthamus, they dry and produce a contraction
of the skin Which prematurely destroys its freshness.

In addition to this, though this vegetable rouge
is less pernicious than other rouges, it is still very
injurious, because it is mixed With a sufﬁcient
quantity of talc and mineral White, to produce
various shades of rouge.

The root of the Bugloss is used in the composition
of many cosmetics. The rouge, of Which it is said
to be the base, is vaunted as the best and the least
dangerous. It remains several days on the face
Without fading; water is said to brighten its brilli-
ancy, as it does that of natural colours 3 and it is pre—
tended that it does not so seriously injure the skin.

From some of these circumstances, it must be a
dye, and cannot but be hurtful.

ARTIFICIAL PAINTS. 41

OF RED ANIMAL PAINT.

Chinese rouge in leaves, or cochineal rouge, is
one of the most beautiful and most expensive.

It is extracted from cochineal, by means of
alcohol diluted With water. The dye being
ﬁltered, is diluted with a little gum arabic, and
boiled till there remains very little liquor. What
remains being glutinous is spread upon paper cut
in the shape of large leaves, and then dried in the
shade.

To apply this to the cheeks, or the lips, it is
sufﬁcient to detach it with the ﬁnger moistened
with water.

OF HAIR DYES.

Paints and dyes are also used for the hair.

Amongst the Roman women, the taste for light
hair was a complete passion. The Cattian and
Sicambrian women were deprived of their natural
tresses 5 and shops were established at Rome, Where
German hair was sold at its weight in gold. It is
also said that they sometimes employed very strong
caustics to change the ebony colour of their own
hair to the Saxon blond.

In recent times, the use of' a leaden comb has
been recommended for red hair. It darkens it,
indeed, but it tarnishes it.

 

 

 

42 PREFACE.

When the hair, however, is of a disagreeable
colour, it is easy to give it a different tinge by
using an aqueous solution of nitrate of silver, vul—
garly known under the name of Egyptian water;
or more safely by using a mixture of White lead
and prepared lime, in the proportion of a pound of
lime to two ounces of White lead. The latter is
the means Which the Wise men at the Horse
Guards prescribe, for converting into warriors
even the most sickly looking of the young gentle-
men Who receive pay during peace, and Whose
golden locks often betray the fraud!

This colouring, however, is a source of constant
trouble, of heavy expense, as well as of evils more
or less serious. These cosmetics, consisting of
metallic oxides Which, as already shown, are hurt—
ful, have not even the effect proposed: it is true
they dye the hair, but as the hair grows from the
roots, the portion most recently grown reveals, by
its different colour, the art employed, if it be not
renewed very frequently. It is certainly more
healthy and wiser to leave the hair just as it is.

As to persons Who have red hair,1et them beware
of having it dyed. They may console themselves
in thinking of the inconstancy of fashion. During
ten ages, red hair was deemed the most beautiful.
Who ever thought of dying the hair of Apollo?
And Raphael and Titian have immortalized their
beautiful mistresses With their golden hair!

I ought particularly to insist on the fact, that

ARTIFICIAL PAINTS. 43

the deleterious matter of the cosmetics in ques—
tion, may, by absorption, penetrate to the in-
terior, and cause serious maladies.

0F PAINT FOR THE EYES, &c.

As large black eyes, With the outline well
deﬁned, were esteemed the handsomest in the east,
the desire of pleasing induced the people of that
region to adopt all methods of extending the eye-
lids, and ofmaking the eye appear larger and longer.

The Grecian and Roman women borrowed the
custom of painting the eyes from others.

Among the Tchercassians and Georgians, the
fashion exists at the present day. The same
practice obtains also in the Levant: the Grecian
women continue to darken their eyebrows and
eyelids With a black powder called surmé, Which
has even become an article of commerce.

Surmé is a compound of galena, Which is an ore
of lead, of antimony and of bismuth: it is placed
on the edges of the eyelid With a very ﬁne pencil
brush slightly bent.

The women of Egypt, of Barbary, and of the
deserts of Arabia, paint their eyelids black, and
extend a black line from the corner of the eye, to
make it appear more oval and larger.

Many persons have been desirous of a tincture
to dye the eyebrows and eyelashes Without staining

 

 

 

 

44 PREFACE.

the skin, instead of a powder or paste, Which
blackens the skin rather than the eyelashes. With
this View, the following wash has been proposed:
namely, one drachm of sulphate of iron dissolved in
one ounce of distilled water, to which is added one
ounce of gum-water and a teaspoonful of eau de
Cologne. This is mixed well together and bottled;
and, when it is required to be used, the eyebrows
are ﬁrst wetted with tincture of galls, and the wash
is then carefully applied with a camel—hair pencil.

A celebrated miniature painter, having by nature
the eyelashes of one eye white, painted them twice
a day With Indian ink: in a few years, enough
was imbibed to make a horrid black and perma-
nent mark in the under eyelid.

There is, indeed, no method of dying or even
darkening the eyelashes: they are too near the globe
of the eye to admit of touching them, however
slighﬂy} with the mildest caustic.

OF THOSE WHO USE PAINTS.

Contemplating all these artiﬁcial disguises,
Martial, speaking of a coquette, says, “ Galla,
you are but a composition of falsehood. Whilst
you were living at Rome, your hair was growing
on the banks of the Rhine: at night, when you lay
aside your silken robes, you lay aside your teeth
also 3 and two thirds of your person are locked up

ARTIFICIAL PAINTS. 45

in boxes for the night: the eyebrows With Which
yon make such insinuating motions are the work
of your slaves. Thus no man can say, I love you,
for you are not What he loves, and no one loves
What you are.”

“ The aversion,” says Mr. Alison, “ Which
mankind have ever shown to the painting of the
countenance, has a real foundation in nature. It
is a sign Which deceives, and, What is worse, Which
is intended to deceive. It never can harmonize
With the genuine character of the countenance; it
never can vary With those unexpected incidents
Which give us our best insight into human cha-
racter; and it never can be practised but by those
who have no character but that Which fashion lends
them, or those Who Wish to affect a character diffe-
rent from their own.”

An expressive interesting paleness is certainly
better than a ﬂeeting artiﬁcial colour, Which never
fails to leave behind a dull withered skin. Exces-
sive paleness, however, is not a natural state: it
arises from weakness, disease, or anxiety. When
these causes cease to exist, it Will be succeeded
by a lively animated colour.

It has been observed that almost all women Who
have been remarkable for beauty, all women Whose
charms have lasted beyond the ordinary period,
have rejected With disdain all cosmetics, and have
been indebted for the whiteness of their skin,

 

 

 

 

 

46 PREFACE.

and the dazzling brilliancy of their complexion, to
the most simple but regular attention to clean-
liness. .
Aspasia, of whom Socrates said he learnt philo-
sophy, thought exercise and temperance the best
preservatives of beauty. Phryne bathed like
Venus in the sea, and used no cosmetic but clean
water.

In modern times, the beauty of Diana 0f
Poictiers was almost proof against time, and she
preserved her brilliancy of colour and complexion
to a very advanced age. The only cosmetic she
used was rain water. She died at sixty-seven; and
“ she was so beautiful,” says Brantome, Who saw
her six months before her death, “ that the most
insensible breast was moved. Her complexion,
her grace, and her elegant appearance were all
equal to What they had been in her youth.”

, A woman still more celebrated for her talents,
and graces, and for the love she inspired at an age
When others retain scarcely a recollection of their
youthful conquests, the beautiful Ninon de l’Enclos; "
studiously avoided paints and other compositions
With Which the ladies of her day unmercifully be-
daubed their faces. “ Her ornaments,” says the
author of Etrennes a la Mode, “consisted of
simple and natural grace, of pleasing Wit,. and an
amiable equality _of temper, Which conciliated all
hearts till she was ninety years of age.”

PART 1.

REGIMEN.

CHAPTER I.

REGIMEN OF THE LOCOMOTIVE ORGANS OF THE
BODY—THOSE ON WHICH ITS GREATER
MOTIONS DEFEND; OR OF EXERCISE.

WOMEN in general, and especially in large
towns, are in the habit of taking too much
repose, and too little exercise. Nature has formed
woman weak, and her slender muscles can never
render her ﬁt for violent labours; but it would
contribute much to her health and happiness, if
these organs were improved and developed.

This subject should accordingly form a funda-
mental and important chapter of a work having
the objects of the present one: but it has been
treated in so original and masterly a manner by
Mr. Donald Walker, in his “EXERCISES FOR
LADIES,” that I need here only refer to his work
for the most ample instruction. It is indeed abso-
lutely necessary to render complete the more
extended objects of the present work.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

48 REGIMEN.

CHAPTER II.

REGIMEN OF THE VITAL ORGANS OF THE BODY—
THOSE ON WHICH LIFE DEPENDS;
OR 0F ALIMENTs, &c.

SECTION I.
DIET—FARINACEOUS FOOD.

Farina, the base Which gives name to farinaceous
food, is met With in the seeds of the leguminous
and grassy plants, in the potato, palm, &c.

In the farinaceous substances Which we use as
food, the farina is never pure; it is always mixed
With various other substances.

The digestion of farinaceous aliments does not
produce much animal heat, nor does it sensibly
hasten the circulation.

Farinaceous food is the most nutritious of all
vegetable aliments. It supplies the system with
nutritive juices, and does not excite the organs as
animal food does. It is easy to establish this fact,
by observing the decrease in activity Which takes
place in all the functions and all the movements of
life, on making a change from an animal diet to one
composed solely of farinaceous substances.

DIET-FARINACEOUS FOOD. 49

As Wheat, in addition to a mucilaginous sac—
charine matter and starch, contains a greater quan-
tity of gluten, it is preferred, in making bread, to
barley, rye, 0r oats, Which contain less of that
substance.

This kind of food becomes more digestible, but _
at the same time less nourishing, in proportion as
it is fermented; In our White bread, all the bran
is separated; in our Wheaten bread, only the
coarser; and, in our household bread, none at all.
The latter has at least the good quality of more
perfectly exciting the action of the stomach, &c.
—In the composition of these, salt is beneﬁcial;
alum, very injurious.

Bread ought to be eaten before it is stale; but
if used immediately after being taken out of the
even, it is likely to produce indigestion. It 0011—
stitutes the basis of food; and, by dividing the
particles of aliments Which are too concentrated,
it renders them more digestible.

Preparations 0f eaten meal With milk are highly
nutritious. Peas, When young, form a light and
wholesome food; but, when full grown, are less
digestible. Rice also is light and Wholesome.
Potatoes have the most agreeable ﬂavour at the
period When they acquire their full size, and before
becoming too solid and ﬁrm: they lose their nu-
tritious qualities by overboiling.

 

 

 

50 REGIMEN.

Farinaceous substances boiled in milk are the
least stimulating and most nourishing. Thick
milk is the food Which ought to succeed, during
infancy, the milk of the mother.

MUCILAGINOUS FOOD.

A class of food may properly be called mucila—
ginous 0r gummy; for the mucilage Which forms
its base is gum. The following belong to this
class of foodz—Carots, Turnips, Parsnips, Cau-
liﬂowers, Brocoli, Asparagus, Spinach, Arti~
chokes.

In the mucilaginous substances Which serve as
food, mucilage never exists by itself. If it existed
in too large a quantity, the food would not be
suﬂiciently stimulating t0 rouse the assimilating
powers of the stomach, and would therefore be
thrown off, or would pass through it Without
being digested. Nature has always combined
with these mucilaginous substances something
bitter, sweet, acrid, or acid.

Mucilaginous food is generally eaten after
being boiled in soft water, Which deprives it of its
acrid or aromatic principles. The carrot, Which is
ﬁbrous When not quite young, should be thoroughly
boiled. The turnip should also be well boiled,
and have its watery part separated by pressure.

FRUITS, OR ACIDULOUS FOOD. 51

Of the herbs of this class Which are eaten in a
raw state, water—cress is deemed the most useful,
and cucumber the most inj urious.—Mucilaginous
substances improperly seasoned lose their ;mild-
ness.

In general, mucilaginous food has little inﬂuence
in exciting the action of the stomach; it causes
little increase of the animal heat; and it reduces in
a remarkable manner the energy of every function.

Notwithstanding the green fecula Which it some-
times contains, it is not nutritious, unless combined
With farinaceous food. Then it forms a nutritious
diet, soothing and very proper for abating the acti—
vity 0f the Vital movements.—As mucilaginous
food diminishes the energy of every function, it is
employed With advantage in subduing the passions
and resisting Violent affections.

FRUITS, OR ACIDULOUS FOOD.

Fruits are in general composed of mucilage,
vegetable jelly, sugar, water, together With malic,
acetic, citric, tartaric; oxalic and gallic acids.

The small—seeded fruits, and especially the
strawberry, raspberry and currant, are by far the
most Wholesome. Grapes and oranges are also
cooling and antiseptic.

The hardness of the spongy substance of other
fruits may be destroyed by simple boiling. This

D 2

 

 

 

5'2 REGIMEN.

mode of preparing them renders apples more
digestible: it supplies, though imperfectly, their
ripeness. Pears are generally more digestible than
apples. The stone-fruits are least so; and the fa-
rinaceous fruits, as the melon, are generally alto-
gether unwholesome.

Fruit cannot alone form a sufﬁcient nourishment
either for the inhabitants of northern climates or
for men used to hard labour. The better kinds of
fruit, however, agree With almost all persons Who
are not in the habit of drinking much fermented
liquor, Wine or spirits.

J ellies are the tremulous substance formed by
the juice of acid fruits boiled with sugar. These
preparations are pleasant, healthful and light.

SACCHARINE FOOD.

Sugar is the base of this kind of aliment, which
is here found variously combined, in honey, in
dried ﬁgs, dates, 810.

Sugar is nearly always combined in nature With
principles Which neutralize its somewhat heating
quality. It consequently agrees With every tem-
perament, both sexes, all ages, and in every
climate. .

Honey is the sweet and Viscous juice Which bees
gather With their trunks from the nectaries and
leaves of plants.

OILY VEGETABLE FOOD. 53

The honey from mounts Hymettus and Ida,
from Cuba and Mahon, is excellent. The honey
of Narbonne and Gatinais contains a small quantity
of wax and acid, but still it possesses qualities
little inferior to the former.

The action of honey on the animal economy is
like that of sugar,‘ soothing and gently aperient;
that is, When it is pure, White, liquid and transpa—
rent, and contains nothing but sugar and an agree—
able aromatic principle.

OILY VEGETABLE FOOD.

Oil is the base Which gives name to this aliment.
Farina, however, forms a large ingredient in oily
substances. Those most in use are sweet almonds,
walnuts, ﬁlberts, nuts, cocoa—nuts, and cocoa.

It is commonly supposed that oily seeds spoil
the voice. The slight excitement of the gullet
which they cause is ascribed to the pellicle, which
is rather acrid and should always be peeled Off;
but as the effect still takes place When the outer
covering is removed, it may be justly attributed to
the mere mechanical action, exercised. on the aerial
passages, by extremely small particles of the nut,
which attach themselves to the membrane of the
throat. The obstacle Which they present to the
perfection of singing cannot be otherwise ex—
plained; inasmuch as, by chemical analysis, no

 

 

 

54 REGIMEN.

irritating principle can be discovered When it is
fresh, and as, a long time after eating nuts, in
gargling the throat, Will be seen, mixed With the
water ejected from the mouth, a greater or less
quantity of small portions of the nuts.

In general, oily seeds have the same effect as
farinaceous substances, except that they are often
viscid and glutinous, and that the oil renders
them a little more heavy, or less easily acted
upon by the organs. They are nutritive, and not
stimulating, When they are fresh.

MILK, 0R CASEOUS FOOD.

Milk, in relation to diet, may be considered as
intermediate between vegetable and animal food.
It differs in quality according to the nourishment
taken by the cows. Milk from cows {which feed
upon the declivities of hills: is the most nutri—
tious. Odoriferous herbs impart to it a species
of aroma, as we ﬁnd in the milk of the goat.
Milk is more watery, consequently less nutritious,
When the animals are fed on vegetables fresh from
the meadow.

The best method of taking milk, is to use it
Without any preparation: it then preserves its
aroma. By boiling, a thin pellicle 0f albumen
forms on its surface, Which, if removed, is re-
placed by another; and thus the Whole of that

 

MILK, OR CASEOUS FOOD. 55

substance may be separated in successive por—
tions: the effect is to diminish the nutritive
quality of the milk. It should be combined only
With farinaceous aliments, if we do not Wish to
neutralize the action Which it produces on the
organs.

Milk acts on the stomach in the same manner as
all mild aliments, at the head of Which it may be
placed. It is indeed sometimes immediately re-
jected, and that the more quickly in proportion as
the persons Who make occasional use of it have
been accustomed to more exciting food, and espe-
cially t0 spirituous liquors.

The digestion of milk does not sensibly affect the
temperature of the body. It is easily assimilated,
and affords a quick supply of aliment t0 the sys-
tem, Without exciting the degree of vascular
action Which is produced by other animal matters.
In general, it is more nourishing as the serous
part Which enters into its composition is less
abundant.

Milk, When digested, aﬁects the system in nearly
the same way as mucilaginous vegetables, sweet
fruits, &c. It appears,hotvever, more likely than the
latter, to produce a full habit of body. The rapid
increase, Which takes place in the ﬁrst days of life,
and the ample provision of juices Which young
animals make Without the aid of any other food

 

 

 

56 REGIME‘N.

than milk, is a proof that it is extremely nou-
rishing.

Milk appears even to calm the passions, and to
impart a gentleness t0 the character, by quieting
respiration and other functions.

The use of milk, long continued, is calculated
to restore to its natural tone an exaggerated sensi-
bility, carried, by the abuse of stimulants, beyond
the limits necessary for the maintenance of life.
It is peculiarly calculated to restore to the organs
that freshness, that colour, that fulness, that
vigour, Which are lost by the use of stimulants
of every description, so imprOperly used in great
towns.

The inconvenience Which milk is supposed to
produce, When taken by itself, 01' With farinaceous
food, of causing, amongst the inhabitants of moist
10W countries, a relative slowness of the functions,
never affects a person inhabiting high countries.
He ﬁnds in the stimulating quality of the fresh
and dry air Which he breathes, a compensation for
the mild and temperate properties of milk, Which,
in its turn, offers a powerful means to retard the
consumption of life, always so rapid in elevated re—
gions. This happy combination exists Without in
the least degree injuring the strength of the
individual.

The milk, however, Which is sold in great towns

MILK, OR CASEOUS FOOD. 57

does not produce these beneﬁcial effects, and that
for many reasons. In the ﬁrst place, it is generally
adulterated. Secondly, it is worth nothing When
it is not: it is procured from cows shut up in
narrow places, badly ventilated: these cows want
exercise, and are in many instances phthisical.*

The cows shut up in great towns, destined to
supply milk to the inhabitants, ought to be an ob-
ject of care and superintendance to proper oﬁicers.
—-—Milk, it should be observed, is often adulterated
With the oxide of zinc, Which is poisonous, in
order to thicken it.

Milk may be resolved, partly by standing, and
partly by agents which do not appear to alter the
nature of its components, into three parts, cream,
curd and Whey.

The cream Which forms on the surface of milk,
is itself composed of butter, curd and Whey. It is
an unetuous substance, and of an agreeable ﬂavour,
but digestedwith difﬁculty if eaten alone: combined
With other food, it forms an aliment very pleasant,
mild and nourishing. By standing for some days
it becomes thicker, and at last forms a soft solid,
Which loses the ﬂavour of cream, and assumes
that of cheese.

When cream is agitated, as in churning, it is

" These reasons explain why in great towns, a child sometimes
falls away when fed upon milk, and preserves its health when fed
on soup. ‘

D3

 

 

 

58 REGIMEN.

separated into two parts, namely, butter and a
liquid possessing nearly the same properties as
milk deprived of its cream.

The qualities of butter need not be described.
There are, however, some stomachs, habituated
to stimulants, in Which butter is unable to excite an
assimilating action, unless combined With salt:
saIt-butter, however, is less nutritious than fresh.

Butter is often adulterated With veal—suet or lard:
the savour alone will discover the imposition.

When milk, either deprived or not of its cream,
is mixed With certain substances,—igum, sugar,
alcohol, acids, many neutral salts, all astringent
vegetables, and especially the gastric juice,———0r
allowed to stand till it becomes sour, it undergoes
a change Which is called coagulation, consisting in
its separation into a solid substance, termed curd,
and a liquid, termed Whey.

Curd is not unctuous, and not very nutritious,
but is a refreshing and agreeable aliment in summer.

The nutritious properties of cheese, or pressed
curd, are in proportion to the cream that it con—
tains. It is a mild and very nourishing food, pro—
vided that the curd be not too predominant.

The most delicious and most nutritious are the
spring cream cheeses. A11 old and strong or pun—
gent cheese, including even Stilton, Which is the
mildest and best, is the least digestible of our
ahments, and is made use of only by persons

 

9

C1

FIBRINOUS FOOD.

whose torpid taste cannot be called into action
but by the strongest stimulants. When toasted, it
is still more injurious.

Cheese is adulterated With ﬂour and potatoes, to
increase the weight. The latter are also added to
butter.

FIBRINOUS FOOD.

Fibrine is the base Which gives name to the class
of food called ﬁbrinous: it is found chieﬂy in
the blood and muscular ﬁbre of animals, after a
certain early period.

Beef and mutton appear to be equally nutritive;
but the latter is perhaps the most digestible. The
texture, however, both of these and of all other
kinds of animal food, is much inﬂuenced by sex,
age, habits, diet, condition, and kind of death, of
the animal from Which it is taken; While nothing
renders it more tender than incipient putréfaction .’
Both in quadrupeds and birds, the dark—coloured
muscles are more digestible and nutritious than
the Whiter ones.

All preparations preserve the qualities of ﬁbri-
nous food in proportion as they retain their soluble
parts. The nutritive and stimulating properties
[are found more predominant in roasted and broiled
viands than in boiled meats.

Soup, however, contains all the nutritive and
stimulating qualities of meat. It is eminently

 

 

 

60 REGIMEN.

nutritious, and very easily digested. Beef and
mutton being the meats most exciting, are conse-
quently best adapted for making soup. By boil-
ing, the albumen and gelatin of meat are acted
upon; the former being solidiﬁed, and the latter
converted into a gelatihous substance.

Fibrino’us food is most nutritious When stewed
in its own juice in a pan With very little or no water.
This process does not deprive it of its juice, as de-
coction does; nor does it harden it, as is done by
the action of the openﬁre.

Fibrinous food generally agrees With persons
engaged in trades which require great muscular
exertion, and With the inhabitants of cold climates»
It is during Winter especially, that this description
of food is used in temperate climates. i

Immoderate indulgence in this food often
becomes pernicious, and is liable to produce hemor—
rhages, and other diseases. The leaving 03 ﬁbri~
nous foodJ 0n the contrary, diminishes the energy
of the functions. We may thence conceive What
the effect must be upon the passions, in diminishing
their force, When ﬁbrinous aliment is superseded
by a less exciting diet.

It is certain that the use of ﬂesh Which has
undergone decomposition, in Whatever mode it
may be cooked, is the reception of poison into the
stomach, Which must produce terrible effects. It
causes delirium, syncope, vomiting and death.

 

61

GELATINOUS FOOD.

The base which gives name to the class of food
called gelatinous, is gelatine. It is found in the
muscular ﬁbre of young animals,—the calf, chick—
ens, certain ﬁshes, &c.

This substance is the principal constituent in
animals, only When they are very young, and pro—
portionally deprived of ﬁbrine and osmazome, a
reddish, aromatic and sapid principle. The parts,
therefore, of young animals are less stimulating
than those of older ones.

When gelatin predominates, as in young ani—
mals, boiling too long or too fast produces a
gelatinous substance injurious to digestion.—
Roasting is the best mode of cooking gelatinous
food.

Its digestion does not cause an increase of heat
in the body, or accelerate any of the functions.
It is very nourishing When it is well digested;
but it imparts a texture Which is soft and fertile in
White juices.

Tainted gelatinous meat has the same effect on
the system as tainted ﬁbrinous food.

 

 

 

6‘2 REGIMEN.

ALBUMINOUS FOOD.

The base Which gives name to albuminous food,
is albumen. It is found in the eggs of galinaceous
birds, and of ﬁsh, some of the mollusca, such as
oysters, muscles, &0. and in various parts of
animals. ’

It affords a very nourishing diet, When properly
cooked; but, if boiled too long or too fast, it forms
a hard and indigestible mass.

Tainted albuminous food produces the same
results as ﬁbrinous.*

FISH.

Fish is a food in Which the preceding bases,
namely, ﬁbrine, gelatine and albumen are found
in nearly equal quantities. It differs from the
parts of quadrupeds, and from birds, in the want
of osmazome. k

Cod, Whiting, haddock, turbot, skate, ﬂounder‘
and sole, are “ the least heating of the more nutri-
tive species; and the ﬂakiness 0f the ﬁsh, and its

* Fatty and oily animal food, consisting of fats, butter, oils, to
be found in pork, geese, ducks, eels, &c., need not be considered
under a separate head.

FISH. 63

opaque appearance after being cooked, may be
considered as true indications of its goodness; for,
when the muscles remain ~semi-transparent and
bluish, after sufﬁcient boiling, we may reject it as
inferior in value, or not in season. When the ﬁsh
is in high perfection, there is also a layer of white
curdy matter, resembling coagulated albumen,
interspersed between its ﬂakes.” Salmon is the
most nutritive of all; but it is oily and heating.

Boiled ﬁsh is the lightest food; but it then loses
a great portion of its nutritive quality. Milk,
vegetables (except the potato), and fruit, (10 not
well combine in the same meal With ﬁsh.

Fish is easily digested, causes little animal
heat, and is nourishing without stimulating
any of the functions, or producing the febrile
excitement which attends the digestion of more
concentrated and nutritive viands. On account of
its low stimulant power, it requires some condi—
ment; and salt is the best.

Fresh ﬁsh, or ﬁsh salted and dried in smoke, if
placed in moist situations, undergoes the same
change as meat, and may be very injurious in its
effects.

Shell-ﬁsh often produce cutaneous efﬂores-
cences; and cutaneous diseases are probably
aggravated by their use.

 

 

 

64 , REGIMEN.

SEASONINGS.

Seasonings are either solid substances or liquids,
Which we mix With our food, to heighten its ﬂavour,
and promote digestion. 1

An immoderate use of seasonings produces an
artiﬁcial appetite, Which requires a greater quantity
of food than the stomach can. digest. By this
forced exertion, the stomach is worn out and debi—
litated, every function of life is ill performed, and
this state is succeeded by the premature decay of
all the organs.

Salt, the only mineral seasoning, is the base of
all those into Which sugar does not enter. It
appears to be an universal and necessary stimulus
to animated beings. All the higher animals seem
to require it, and travel to great clistances in quest
of it. It stimulates digestion, by proclueing an
abundant secretion of the ﬂuids of the stomach.

Sugar renders mucilaginous and insipid aliments
more digestible, and removes the acid quality of
fruits. It is almost the only condiment which
irritable 0r convalescent persons can bear.

Honey is a suitable addition to food under the
same circumstances as the seasoning previously
mentioned.

The best oil is that extracted from olives. The

SEASONINGS. . 65

purest is of a light yellow colour; its taste is the
same as that of the fruit; its smell scarcely per-
ceptible. It imparts only a mild taste to food,
and contains none but soothing properties. It is
essential With salads.

If the temperature of oil be much increased, it
is converted into an acrimonious substanCe, and
exchanges mild qualities, for properties more
stimulating.

Vinegar is an acid liquor, produced bythe acetous
fermentation of Wine. The different Vinegars ob—
tained from othermaterials areby no means so good.
When Vinegar is taken in moderate quantities, its
action is only local, like that of salt. It sometimes
checks fermentation, and prevents ﬂatulence from
vegetable bodies; and it seems to render fatty and
gelatinous substances more digestible. Taken in
too great a quantity, it produces irritation.

Vinegar is said to diminish corpulence. It can
do this only by injuring the health, and debilita—
ting one or more of the organs essential to life.

Lemon—juice is a valuable condiment. The ad-
dition of it to glutinous soups is very useful.

The following condiments are much used in
northern and in temperate climates: horse—radish,
mustard, cress, scurvy—grass, tarragon, pimpernel,
parsley, cherVil, rampions, thyme, savory, Wild
thyme, sage, bay, rosemary, capucins, capers,

 

 

66 REGIMEN.

gherkins, olives. Their stimulating action is
promptly dissipated, and indeed passes of? even
during the course of digestion.

Garlick stimulates the stomach by means of an
acrid principle, and is used only by persons of the
most corrupt taste.

Onion, chive, rocambole, chalot, leek and
scallion, of the same family as garlick, possess the
same qualities, only in a less degree.

Pepper, the seed of the pepper—tree, from the
equatorial regions, is acrid, burning and aromatic.
It stimulates the stomach powerfully, and pro-
duces a lively feeling of heat. In small quan-
tities, it assists the digestion of those aliments
Which, by themselves, do not sufﬁciently excite
the stomach. V In too great a quantity, it induces
inﬂammation. The aetion, however, of pepper 0n
the economy is more than merely local. It sti—
mulates actively all the organs.

Pepper does not agree With the inhabitants of
temperate climates: it debilitates, and causes
irritation of every description. Nature has pro-
duced it in burning countries, to excite the organs,
enervated and exhausted by an overpowering heat.
It is a poison to irritable people, and those
recovering from any irritation.

We may apply for the most part What we have
said of pepper to thefollowing seasonings: cayenne-

COOKING. 67

pepper, ginger, pimento, cloves, vanilla, nutmeg,
cinnamon. It has been well said, that the best
quality of spices is to stimulate the appetite; and
their worst to destroy, by insensible degrees, the
tone of the stomach.

Butter is a mild seasoning, the properties of
Which are changed when the temperature is raised.

Fat, as a seasoning, is similar in its qualities to
oils. Its mild qualities, When it has been melted
in water to form soup, or any other aliment,
change, like those of oil, into stimulating and irri-
tating properties, by a certain elevation of tempe-
rature.

The sophistication and spontaneous alteration
of food impart to it opposite properties from those
Which it possessed before undergoing any change,
rendering it almost always noxious, and sometimes
poisonous.

COOKING, &c.

The culinary art acts upon food by destroying
the cohesion of some aliments, and increasing that
of others: it also alters their taste and smell, and
deprives them of certain soluble, bitter, acrid, or
virulent principles, Which might injure the sto—
mach or the entire economy.

By the various mode of preparation, and by
the mixture of different substances, we totally

 

 

 

68 REGIMEN.

change the eﬂ'ect of particular aliments. In
boiling, soft water should be used for vegetable
substances; and hard water for animal ones, un-
less in the case of soup : beef and mutton, by this
process, lose respectively one fourth and one ﬁfth
of their weight. By roasting, these meats lose
about a third; but then the loss is chieﬂy of water
and fat, and the more nutritious matter remains
condensed: it has been computed that, from the
dissipation of the nutritive juices by boiling, one
pound of roasted meat contains as much nourish-
ment as two of boiled meat. By broiling, the
sudden hardening of the surface prevents the
evaporation of the juices, and causes greater ten-
derness. By frying, the oil or fat is rendered
more liable to disagree With the stomach. By
baking, the same effect is produced, and more of
the oil or fat is retained.

It is a fact that the Brahmins, Who live on the
most simple vegetable food, are nearly always
centenaries, although they inhabit a very hot cli-
mate; and the husbandmen of Switzerland, who
live on bread, milk and cheese, live to a great age,
and enjoy great strength.

Among us, the luxury of the table was perhaps
never carried to a higher pitch than it is at present.
French entremets and Izors-d’mu-vres, 0f the worst
description, load our tables. Seasonings, hurtful
to the stomach, and ruinous t0 the digestive powers,

WATER. 69

are employed to give ﬂavour and to pamper our
palate. They produce acrid, irritating and in-
ﬂammable juices, Which carry into the circulation
a poison that undermines existence.

Hence premature debility and old age speedily
overtake allwho indulge in the luxuries of the table.
But even this is not the worst; for, during their
brief and miserable existence, they are Victims to
numerous diseases. Flatulence, indigestion, bili-
ous affections, and hypochondriasis, are ever
hovering about; and the fell monster—gout is
their companion for the greater part of every year.

If luxurious living enfeebles the constitution of
the rich, scanty and unhealthful food produce the
same effect among the peasantry and the poor.
In few countries, are the peasantry well fed, and in
many they want the common necessaries of life.

BEVERAGES—VVATER.

“Tater is the beverage Which nature intended
for our use, or, in other words, which it is most
healthful to use 5 for every unnecessary stimulus
abridges life. To be drinkable, however, it ought
to contain air: pure water,—that is, water dis—
tilled and destitute 0f air,——pr0duces, in the sto-
mach, a sensation of weight. It ought also to be
fresh, clear, inodorous, Without a disagreeable,
insipid, pungent, salt, or sweetish taste. It ought,

 

 

 

7O REGIMEN.

likewise, to dissolve soap without forming lumps,
and to dress dry legumes.

Water which has these properties is termed soft
water; and that which has them not is termed
hard water. If we are obliged to use the latter,
and have recognised the presence of too great a
quantity of sulphate of lime, we may diminish the
proportion of this salt by pouring into the water,
twenty-four hours before it is used, a little carbo-
nate of potash,* and separating afterwards, by
means of a ﬁlter, the precipitated carbonate of
lime. If the hardness depend on super—carbonate
of lime, long ebullition, without any addition, will
remedy it.

Mechanical impurities, especially When they
consist of animal or vegetable matter, may be re-
moved by ﬁltration through alternate layers of
sand and charcoal. When there is much of such
contamination, however, boiling should never be
omitted; and that should be followed, ﬁrst by
ﬁltration, and then by agitation, or pouring from
vessel to vessel, to restore the proper proportion
of air.

Rain—water contains almost a twentieth part of
its volume of atmospheric air, and a little carbonic
acid. Collected at a distance from large towns, or
any object capable of impregnating the atmosphere

* In the proportion of from ten to ﬁfteen grains to every pint.

 

WATER. 71

with noxious materials, it is the purest water we
can obtain. Even there, the ﬁrst portion Which
falls ought not to be collected, When the weather
has been for a long time very mild, because it
meets, in the inferior portions of the atmosphere,
many substances Which tend to corrupt it. It
ought never to be collected from the roofs of houses,
because, besides those substances which it meets
with on the roofs, it carries With it many different
salts which come from the lime. It is necessary
to keep the cisterns very clean.

Spring—water is nothing but rain water, Which,
after being ﬁltered through the earth, comes to
the surface, and is used at the fountain—head, or
before it has run far from its source. It contains,
at its exit from the earth, less air than rain-Water;
and, When drawn from smaller springs, or those
Which do not occur in primitive countries, and in
siliceous rocks or beds of gravel, it is impregnated
with different substances from the beds through
which it passes, on which its various qualities de-
pend. This water frequently contains too much
sulphate of lime to be potable: the presence of
this salt in too great abundance is discovered by
the difﬁculty experienced in cooking leguminous
seeds, or dissolving soap. This water disorders
digestion, if the person Who drinks it is not used
to it.

Well-water does not differ from the foregoing,

 

 

 

72 REGIMEN.

except that, to obtain it, the ground must be
bored to a certain depth. As this water is stag—
nant, it contains less air than spring-water; and,
owing to stagnation and slow inﬁltration, it is
impregnated, especially in neW wells, with more
foreign substances, principally sulphate of lime,
Which it takes up either from the soil or from the
materials used in the construction of the well. It
is less Wholesome than spring—water. Wells should
be sunk, if possible) in a siliceous earth, at a dis—
tance from all places where either animal or vege-
table matter is undergoing putrefaction; and
should be made With stones of a silieious nature,
joined together Without mortar.

River water is a mixture of rain and spring
water. Less pure than the former, it is more so
than the latter, When at a distance from towns.
It is liable, however, to have its transparency and
salub‘rity diminished, by holding in suspension
particles of earthy matter. When it runs rapidly
over a rocky bed or gravelly bottom, it is remark-
ably pure: it is then also abundantly impregnated
With air. On the contrary, the enormous quantity
of vegetable and animal putriﬁed substances car-
ried into a river in passing through a large town,
renders this water impure ﬁnd ﬁlthy. If submit-
ted to the ﬁlter, it loses the air Which it contained.

The stagnant water of lakes, ponds and marshes

contains a large proportion of vegetable and ani-
6

WATER. 73

mal matter in a state of decomposition, Which
renders it injurious to life. This water must
always be boiled before it can be used: the hurtful
gases are then disengaged; the organic matters
are destroyed; and the water may then be ﬁltered
through sand or powdered charcoal. All the or—
ganic matter Which these waters contain may be
destroyed by throwing in a little chlorine.

Water allays the sensation of thirst by moisten—
ing the mucous surfaces over Which it passes. In
the stomach, it answers the different purposes of'
potable aliment, Without increasing, even in the
most feeble degree, the activity of any function.
It is, therefore, of all liquids that the use of Which
contributes most to prolong life.

Water taken in large quantities, however, when
there is food in the stomach, renders digestion
painful and slow, by diminishing the excitement
Which ought to take place in this organ for the ac-
complishment of its function. This effect is more
marked if the individual possesses a stomach
weakened by the use of tonics.

If too much water be taken even When digestion
is not going on, it remains in the stomach for a
space of time, in indirect proportion to the quan-
tity of air that it contains, and afterwards over-
burdens the circulating system With a useless
quantity of liquids, Which, in their endeavour to
leave it, create greater activity of the skin, &c.

E

 

 

 

74 REGIMEN.

The privation of water, on the contrary, during
the stay of aliment in the stomach, developes in
that organ a sensation of heat, Which may go the
length of irritation.

W ater preserved in vessels of lead in the Open
air, rain-water caught in leaden gutters, and
spring—water transmitted by aqueducts of the
same metal, have a tendency to disorder digestion;
and if these waters do not immediately act as a
poison, they cause accidents more or less dangerous,
Which frequently lead to fatal terminations. If
acidity be communicated to the water, from de—
cayed leaves or other vegetable matter, its power
of dissolving this metal is increased to a very
dangerous extent. Water so impregnated is
readily recognised by its soft, sweetish, metallic
taste.

Timber pipes are liable to decay, and to impart
a bad taste to water. Those made of cast—iron are
greatly to be preferred.

REFRESHING DRAUGHTS.

Refreshing draughts are generally made either
With accidulated or mucilaginous juices and sy-
rups, or merely With sugar. They are made most
frequently With orange, lemon, raspberry, or
gooseberry.

To form a just idea of their effects, it Will be

REFRESHING DRAUGHTS. 75

sufﬁcient to recollect What has been said of acid,
mucilaginous, and sweet bodies, and What has just
been mentioned concerning water. Acids diffused
in water Will be refreshing; but if the acid is too
predominant, it Will irritate the stomach.

Soda-water, With lemon-juice and syrup, is a
delicious beverage; but soda—Water should in no
form be used during digestion, as it counteracts
the functions of the stomach, and produces dys-
pepsia.—Imperial, or a solution of cream of tartar
ﬂavoured With lemon-peel, should never be used
but as medicine.

Ices and sherbets are a mixture of sugar, cream,
the juice or pulp of fruit, and iced water. If
indulged in to excess, they are liable, by thereac-
tion Which follows Violent cold, to produce inﬂam-
mations. They impede digestion, When taken
after a repast.

Wine diluted With water, small beer, or cider,
is also much used to quench thirst.

These different drinks do indeed quench the
thirst; but how far they are refreshing must
depend upon previous habits. An individual
habituated to fermented and spirituous liquors,
ﬁnds, in beer or Wine much diluted, a refreshing
draught: a person, on the contrary, Who is accus-
tomed to pure water ﬁnds that beer, or wine, and
water, are refreshing only for the moment, as they

E 2

 

 

 

’76 REGIMEN.

speedily communicate a slight excitement, Which
the habitual beverage would not cause.

These drinks should be arranged in the class of
fermented liquors, which we are about to treat of.

FERMENTED LIQUORS.

Fermented beverages arise from‘an union, at a
certain temperature, of water, sugar and yeast.
These articles have the same effect Which is pro-
duced by the alcohol Which they contain in a
greater or smaller proportion; but they have also
different effects, Which, in each fermented liquor,
depend upon the different bodies combined With
the alcohol.

The effect Which they produce 011 the stomach
is the same as that produced by solid seasonings.
But fermented liquors produce an effect Which
solid stimulants rarely do 5 they quickly act upon all
the functions of the body, Without exception.

The gaiety Which a moderate quantity of stimu—
lating drink produces is necessarily followed by
a state of languor, the degree of Which is precisely
in proportion to the previous excitement.

Beer, Whether strong or weak, is a bad beverage.
It appears especially to produce the effect of ren—
dering people heavy, at an age When we still ﬁnd
a great deal of Vivacity in grape countries. When

 

FERMENTED LIQUORS. 77

much used, it induces a plethoric state of the body,
and all the diseases consequent upon it.

Experience 01‘ observation of this has caused all
kinds of malt liquor to be excluded, of late years,
from the tables of the more opulent classes in this
country. Yet a popular writer says, “I do not
agree With Dr. Franklin, when he states that the
bodily strength furnished by beer can only be in
proportion to the solid part of the barley dissolved
in the water of Which the beer was composed; and
that, as there is a larger proportion of ﬂour in a
penny loaf than in a pint of beer, consequently,
that more strength is derived from a penny loaf
and a pint of water than from a pint of beer. It
is the stimulus of the beer that proves s0 service_
able to the poor man, enabling his stomach to
extract more aliment from his innutritive diet.”—
What can induce a medical man to say this in
defence of a ﬁlthy combination of tobacco—juice,
coculus indicus, salt, &c.?

Wines are generally divided into White and red;
the former commonly deserving a preference, be~
cause the latter, being pressed and subjected to a
stronger fermentation to extract the colouring
matter from the husk, are more loaded With eX—
tractive and astringent substances. The odour or
bouquet, and the ﬂavour, Which distinguish Wines,
depend upon some unknown and evanescent
principle.

 

 

 

78 REGIMEN.

The characteristic ingredient of all wines is
alcohol, or spirit of wine.

Wines have the effects, as well local as general,
which are common to all fermented liquors.
Wines have, in addition, certain particular eﬁ'ects,
according to their particular kind.

The dry and light Rhenish and Bourdeaux
(claret) red wines are the least stimulating, and
therefore the best. They contain less uncombined
alcohol than most other wines. The great quan-
tity of tartar and tannin which they contain,
however, and which impart a roughness to these
wines, is the sole foundation for their pretended
tonic properties.

Even the latter of these wines, the French
generally mix with water at table. This was also a
favourite practice amongst the ancients: indeed, to
drink wine unmixed was held disreputable, and
those who were guilty' of such excess were said
to act like Scythians.

The French wines Which have somewhat more
exciting properties, are those of Clos de Vougeot,
Romanée, Chambertin, Volney, Pommard, Beaune,
Montrachet, Nuits) Vosne, Chassagne, Poligny,
Meursault, Monthlie, Savigny, Aloxe, Premeaux,
and Chambolle. They almost all possess a ﬁne
ﬂavour, greater digestibility than any other Wine,
and a moderate exciting property.——Burgundy

 

FERMENTED LIQUORS. 79

appears to hold dissolved some unknown principle
of great activity.

The dry and strong Spanish and Portuguese
Wines, as prepared for the English market, are
mere pretexts for drinking brandy. Port, Sherry,
and Madeira contain from one fourth to one ﬁfth
of their bulk of alcohol; so that the person Who
takes half a bottle of either drinks nearly a quarter
of a pint of pure alcohol, or half a pint of pure
brandy.

Wine should be at least a year old before it is
brought to table: it is more easily digested than
new Wine, and superior in taste and ﬂavour; be—
cause it has then deposited a quantity of cream of
tartar, combined With extractive and colouring
matter, While a quantity of water is evaporated.

Mixed Wines are generally very unwholesome.
Sweet Wines only disguise the spirit they contain,
and are more liable to become acescent. Effer-
vescing Wines rapidly intoxicate, in consequence
of the alcohol being aided in its effects by the
carbonic acid gas. Home-made Wines are always
pernicious. Cider and Perry are tolbe avoided by
those Who are predisposed to indigestion.

The ill effects of Wine is well illustrated by the
following experiment.———An ingenious surgeon
gave to two of his children, for aweek alternately
after dinner, to the one a full glass of Sherry, and

 

 

 

   

80 REGIMEN.

to the other a large orange. In one, the pulse was
quickened, the heat was increased, the secretions
were unfavourably altered, &c.; whilst the other
had every appearance that indicated high health.
The same effects followed when the experiment
was reversed.

SPIRITUOUS LIQUORS.

Spirituous liquors are extracted from all fer—
mented liquors, by distillation. As alcohol or
spirit of wine is much lighter than the liquids with
which it is found combined, it passes over ﬁrst.
Alcohol, in a state of purity, is the same, from
whatever substance it may be extracted; but as it
is never taken pure, it preserves the ﬂavour of the
substance from which it is extracted.

Spirituous liquors are much stronger than
fermented liquors, because, in the latter, the
alcohol is always diluted with water, and often
combined with bodies which partly neutralize its
exciting qualities.

Spirituous liquors in any quantity always tend
to produce inﬂammations of the stomach, cerebral
affections, and moral degradation.

An individual in the habit of indulging in
spirits for the purpose of procuring an agreeable
feeling, is continually obliged to increasethe quan—

SPIRITUOUS LIQUORS. 81

tity, in order to produce the same sensation, and
the action of the spirits on the system soon becomes
dreadfully pernicious. The muscular ﬁbres of the
stomach are thrown into convulsions; and these
are succeeded by numbness, and other distressing
symptoms. These liquors introduce into the mass
of liquids a chyle, Which escapes by the superﬁcial
parts of the body, especially the face, disﬁguring
the person, and leaving the livid red spots by Which
drunkards are fortunately marked. The irritation,
however, is propagated to all the system; the walk
becomes tottering; the hands as well as the head
tremble; and the unhappy wretches Who are ad—
dicted to drinking, in order to prolong their mise—
rable existence, are obliged to have recourse to the
very cause of their misfortunes. Spirits exhaust
the Vital functions; and the dmmhard, losing half
of emistence and becoming prematurely old, passes
the other hagf in, a state of imbecilz'ty cmd ofphy-
sieal and moral debasement, a prey to a host of
hysterical and other paiwful afeetz'ons. Paralysis
0r dropsy closes the scene. But the most awful
consequence of the use of spirituous liquors is
the permanent loss of reason.

A law to limit the use of spirits to medicinal
purposes, would be very advantageous both to the
people and t0 the state.

Liqueurs are nothing but brandy With an
infusion of aromatics. They are similar in their

E3

 

 

 

82 REGIMEN.

effects to spirituous liquors, and are often ren-
dered more injurious by the narcotic substances
With Which they are impregnated.

TEA.

Tea consists of the dried and rolled leaves
of the tea tree. The fresh and newly gathered
leaves are dried on plates of hot iron, and rolled
up With the hand Whilst warm. The drying is
said to deprive them of narcotic, acrid and poison-
ous properties. To this practice performed at
J apan, the Chinese add the precaution of steeping
the leaves for half a minute in boiling water, before
putting them on the plate.

Tea is dried anew, several months after this ﬁrst
operation, and is directed to be preserved from the
effects of air and light, in opaque vessels, such as
those of wood and porcelain.

Tea is of two general kinds, black and green; of
each of Which there are several subdivisions. It
is infused With soft water; and its infusion pos-
sesses some of the same properties as coffee.
Both black and green tea contain astringent and
narcotic principles, in different proportions; the
latter possessing the most elegant ﬂavour, as well
as refreshing and exhilarating most, and generally
producing the greatest effect upon the nervous
system.

TEA. 83

When the stomach is overloaded, tea is very
serviceable in relieving it. It dilutes the alimen-
tary mass, and destroys its ﬁrmness; but it also
stimulates the other organs by acting upon them
through the nervous and circulating system; and
this excitement reacts in a secondary stimulus 0n
the stomach.

Tea promotes the insensible perspiration and
the other secretions, and consequently supersedes
the use of fermented and spirituous liquors. Those
Who use the one generally dislike the other; and
a drunkard may commonly be detected by his
hatred of tea.

It is asserted that a very large portion of
nervous diseases arises solely from the abuse of
tea. It is not, we are told, by reason of its
ﬂuidity, of its temperature, or of its pretended de-
bilitating effects on the stomach, that tea, like
coffee, produces nervous or hypochondriac affec-
tions, but on account of its stimulating and non-
reparatory qualities, Which excite the organs for a
short time and then leave them in a state of debility.
These effects, if ever they exist, are certainly obvi—
ated When tea is mixed With milk and sugar 5 for
the salubrity of tea is established. by universal
experience, Which outweighs all arguments founded
upon individual cases, in some of Which abuse
may be suspected.

“ I remember, many years ago,” says Mr. Payne

 

84 REGIMEN.

Knight, “ to have met with an account of an expe—
riment to ascertain the pernicious effects of
drinking tea; in which it was stated that a single
ounce of that deleterious drug, having been steeped
for only ﬁve minutes in a quart of boiling spring
water, rendered it so corrosive, that it immediately
took all the hairs off a raw pig’s tail, that was put
into it. What havock must it then make with the
tender coats of the stomach! The chemist was too
intent on the subject of his inquiry, tea, to think
of trying the effects of hot water, without it 1”

COFFEE.

Coffee is the berry 0f the coffee tree roasted and
ground.

Roasting destroys the farinaceous character and
the nutritive qualities of coffee. It also developes
an empyreumatic oil, bitter and aromatic, to which
it owes its new principle, which is more sti-
mulating than that of tea. If coffee be too little
roasted, this aromatic quality is not developed: if,
on the other hand, it be too much roasted, this
property is dissipated. The latter takes place if
coffee be boiled, instead of being merely infused.

Coﬂ'ee facilitates digestion, excites the stomach
and nervous system, and produces a certain degree
of hilarity. It gives energy to the animal functions,
by means of an active volatile principle which it

 

 

COFFEE. 85

developes in the stomach; and thence it is promptly
circulated throughout the economy, in the same
way as substances in the class of aromatic
stimulants.

The stimulating effect produced by coffee
remains for a long time. The consequence is that
persons Who are not habituated to it, either pass a
sleepless night or fall into broken slumbers insufﬁ-
cient to recruit their strength; but this does not
occur if it be taken several hours before the accus-
tomed period of repose.

It has been observed, that “the custom of tak-
ing coffee immediately after dinner, so universally
practised by the French, must no doubt counter—
act the evil effects Which the peculiar form of their
diet is calculated to produce; and that, from its
power in counteracting the effects of narcotics, it
is used by» the Turks With much advantage, in
abating the inﬂuence of the inordinate quantities
of opium they are accustomed to swallow.”

People fancy that coffee is a beverage that clears
and improves the mental faculties, because it is
much used by literary and scientiﬁc men. But
this arises from the circumstance that the brain is
the organ most easily excited amongst studious
men, When any stimulant is introduced into the
system.

Coffee, being stimulating and by no means
nutritious, produces thinness and paleness, and.

 

 

 

86 REGIMEN.

accelerates the wasting of the organs, among irri-
table persons.

Milk and cream diminish the stimulating quali—
ties of coffee, and render it somewhat nutritious;
and, in return, coffee increases the digestibility of
these two unctuous substances.

Unfortunately, great coﬁ'ee drinkers prefer it
Without any mixture; and, to increase its action,
they increase the quantity, or take it several times
during the day. “ I have known,” says Sinibaldi, “a
number of persons, two especially, Who took it from
ten to twelve times during the twenty—four hours,
and Who were quite incapable of the slightest
application, When, from any circumstance, they
were deprived of it.”

CHOCOLATE.

Chocolate is prepared from cocoa; being made
of equal parts of the roasted kernels and sugar. It
is taken dry in cakes, or boiled in water or milk,
and is a very mild and nutritious aliment, Which
should be regarded in all cases rather as food than
as drink.

Some persons of nervous temperament, and indi—
viduals 0f sedentary habits, ﬁnd chocolate a very
agreeable and Wholesome beverage, if there be no
vanilla or other aromatics in its composition. It
excites, however, so little action in the stomach

PROPER FOOD OF MANKIND. 87

that many persons ﬁnd it diﬁicult of digestion;
and the oil it contains probably aids in oppressing
the stomach, an effect Which must be increased
by the application of too much heat. It is, more-
over, too concentrated.

During the war, it was adulterated With various
farinaceous substances; and it should be observed
that, Whenever it has a rancid smell, it is a proof
that it contains fat or butter.

Cocoa is less oleaginous and less concentrated,
and therefore forms a lighter aliment.

PROPER FOOD OF MANKIND.

Dr. Fordyce has said that man has no natural
food, and has thus settled the question as to vege-
table or animal diet! But it cannot be denied
that the teeth of man are less pointed than those
of monkeys, and that, consequently, he ought to
be more herbivorous or frugivorous than they are,
if any argument is to be drawn from structure.
The same conclusion would seem to be enforced,
by the intestinal tube of man being, as physiolo-
gists tell us, not only longer than in carnivorous
animals, but longer than in herbivorous ones, if
compared With the length only of the body in
both.*

“ An error on this subject, formerly committed, was the com-
parison of the body of herbivorous With both body and limbs in man.

 

 

 

88 REGIMEN.

But it is better, perhaps, to reason from facts
universally known. These tell us that, both in hot
countries, and in temperate countries during the
heats of summer, mankind instinctively prefer
vegetable food; While, in frozen regions, animal
food is preferred, and can indeed alone be found,
and in temperate countries, during Winter, people
slide insensibly into the use of it.

If we look to particular classes, we ﬁnd that, as
observed by a writer on dietetics, persons of se—
dentary habits are oppressed, and ultimately
become diseased, from the excess of nutriment
Which 3.qu diet of animal food Will occasion; that
such a condition, by some process not understood,
is best corrected by acescent vegetables; and that
artisans and labourers, in the conﬁned manufac—
tories of large towns, suffer prodigiously in their
health Whenever a failure occurs in the crops of
common fruits; a fact Which was remarkably
striking in the years 1804 and 1805.

01', taking a more extended View, we ﬁnd, as
observed by the same writer, that, since abundance
of culinary vegetables were introduced into this
country, the ravages of scurvy have been less
severely experienced. We may therefore con—
clude With him, that, in our climate at least, a diet
exclusively of animal food cannot With safety be
employed; While an adherence to vegetable food is
usually productive of far less evil, and, if we

PECULIAR TASTES. 89

judge from the peasantry of Ireland, of no ill con-
sequences.

All this is conformable with the fact, that ani-
mals cannot be supported on highly concentrated
food, the use of which, in the ﬂesh of animals (i
unmixed With bread and vegetables,) and in much
chocolate, butter, cream, sugar, and rich sauces,
invariably produces deranged digestion.-—In rela-
tion to the form or texture of food, it may here be
added, that a certain degree of density is neces-
sary to digestion; a state too liquid, or one too
solid, equally impeding that process.

PECULIAR TASTES.

Women, Whose constitutions are naturally deli-
cate, generally, unless their taste be Vitiated, prefer
light aliments, such as milk, fruit and vegetables,
Which are easily digested, and do not act too
powerfully on their delicate ﬁbres.

However, it is not uncommon to see women
fond of high—ﬂavoured Viands, and 0f spirituous and
aromatic liquors. These women are generally mea—
ger and 0f bilious temperament: so that taste is not
always a sure guide to decide the choice of aliments
that Will agree With us. All these things, though
pleasing, are destructive; they increase the move—
ment of the ﬁbres; and the agitation Which they
cause is always succeeded by debility. This

 

 

 

 

 

 

90 REGIMEN.

renders the use of stimulants more and more
necessary to us, so that we can no longer exist
Without them.

TIMES OF MEALS.

It has been said, that the best time of dining is,
for a rich man, When he can get an appetite, and
for a poor one, When he can get food. A meal
certainly ought never to be taken Without appetite ;
but still regularity, both as to the number and
times of meals, is of great importance.

Happily, appetite recurs at intervals Which are in
direct proportion to the activity of the stomach, of
exercise, &c. Where appetite is not created by
artiﬁcial means, it is our best and surest guide to
regulate the number of meals, the interval Which
ought to eXist between them, and the quantity of
aliment necessary to satisfy the wants of the orga—
nization.

On this basis, it is easy to ﬁx a certain order
and time for meals. Habit makes the return of
hunger natural to us like that of other wants.
When we have eaten moderately, and When diges-
tion is not stopped by any action of another organ,
hunger is generally felt in about ﬁve hours after a
previous meal.

We may, therefore, lay down as a principle that
if but two meals be taken in the day, they ought

TIMES OF MEALS. 91

to be at equal distances from mid—day. This
order is the most natural, and corresponds with
What we have stated when speaking of sleep, that
our rising and going to bed ought to be at equal
distances from midnight.

Persons whose muscular exertions require three
meals, ought to take one at noon, and the two
others at equal distances from that hour; for ex—
ample, one at seven in the morning, and the other
at ﬁve in the afternoon.

When social duties oppose themselves to this
natural order in the distribution of meals, it behoves
us to establish an order, which, though contrary to
nature, approaches as near as possible, that which
is required by her. Rules indicative of this order,
must depend upon circumstances.

In this country, even among the enlightened or
middling classes, the artiﬁcial day is several hours
later than nature prescribes: for (supposing eight

hours of sleep necessary) we rise, during a great
i part of the year at least, at eight instead of four
o’clock; and, to compensate for this delay, we
breakfast immediately, instead of spending a
couple of hours before it; we take a light lunch
about one o’clock; we dine about six; and we go
to bed about twelve. This is the case in winter;
and, in summer, we rise and go to bed a couple of
hours earlier, without altering the times of meals.

 

 

92 REGIMEN.

Supper, a most unwholesome meal, is utterly
banished, except among people Who may be called
coarse and low, Whatever their wealth.

Care must be taken not to partake of a meal
immediately after either a moral emotion or Violent
muscular exertion. Nature herself points out to
us this precept, in taking away, after any excite-
ment, the feeling of want.

QUANTITY OF FOOD.

It is an ancient and comprehensive rule, that we
ought not to take more aliment than we can
digest. It is obvious that the quantity of nourish-
ment necessary to each individual must depend
upon constitution, temperament, strength and
mode of life.

Excess is always dangerous; and the indulgence
of an appetite created by artiﬁcial means is always
succeeded by irritation or premature torpidity 0f
the organs.

The organs appropriate nutritive particles of
food, in proportion to their natural energy, and to
the amount of exercise to Which the body has been
subjected.

If food. be taken in moderate quantities, of good
quality, and at a proper time, it fulﬁls the ofﬁce
just mentioned, Without producing either fatigue,

QUANTITY OF FOOD. 93

oppression, uneasiness, 0r agitation. On the con-
trary, a sense of gratiﬁcation succeeds its inges-
tion, and the assimilation of these inert substances
is not even perceptible.

In women, appetite should demand only the
quantity proportioned to the weakness of their
organs, and to the triﬂing exercises in Which they
are occupied. But listening to a deceitful 0r fac-
titious appetite, women, as well as men, transgress
these proper limits, Without perceiving it 3 and
When custom has become a second nature, the fre-
quency of the meals is no longer regulated by What
nature requires, but the appetite is created before
the stomach is prepared, and the stomach over-
loaded after nature is satisﬁed.

Great variety of food is a sure cause of this
excess; and thence also follow other mischiefs: for
these varieties are incompatible 5 each requires a dif-
ferent exertion of the stomach in digestion; different
stages of that process occur therefore at the same
time; and some kinds of food are retained too
long in the stomach, While others are expelled too
quickly. The result must be an ill—digested and
unwholesome mass, and the production of disease
instead of health. The conclusion to be drawn
from this is, that we should never take, at any

meal, of more than one simple or well-combined

dish. h

 

 

 

 

 

94 REGIMEN.

If too much food be taken, the stomach presses
on the lungs, and renders respiration difficult; the
mind and the moving organs can no longer act,
and a sensation of oppression and sleep follows.
The stomach succeeds in getting‘rid of this super-
abunclance of food only by the exercise of great
energy, and it sends to the other organs 3 mass
badly digested and ﬁt only to produce irritation.
The individual then grows thin, in spite of the
great quantity of food eaten, and hence we every
day see persons Who remain extremely thin,
although they devour a great deal.

At other times, especially When the custom of
eating to excess has come on by degrees, the diges-
tive organs acquire an energy and predominance
over all the other organs, particularly over those of
the mind.

In extreme cases of this kind, individuals, after
having ﬁnished their meal, ﬁnd themselves in a
similar condition to that of a voracious boa con—
strictor: they are seized With a general torpor, and
With an insurmountable desire to sleep, With Which
they are frequently overcome before leaving the
table. The continuance of such a habit produces
a reparation superior to the loss of the economy,
a monstrous rotundity of person. The least-
movement, then, becomes irksome; and thought

no longer emanates from the brain, Which is torpid
6

QUANTITY OF FOOD. 95

and scarcely receives any impression. This state
predisposes to gout and many other affections, and
the least emotion exciting the brain,10ng in a state
of torpor, is likely to cause death by apoplexy.

If we Wish our‘digestive organs to perform their
functions properly,'we must not neglect the state
of our other organs. Too much activity in the
action of the brain and 0f the muscular functions,
disorders the digestion. When this function is in
exercise, we must be careful not to indulge in any
- too active intellectual or muscularexertion: agree-
able conversation or a gentle walk are the exercises
best adapted to forward digestion.

The effects of feeding below the healthy standard
are to be seen in the meagerness, the feebleness,
the deformity, and the disease, Which now prevail
among the peasantry of this country; Whom even
the citizen beholds With astonishment, in his short
visit to watering—places during the summer.

As to beverage and its quantity, it is evident
that, by drinking before a meal, the stomach is
unﬁtted for its function; and that, by drinking
during a meal, we assist digestion only When the
solid food requires dilution, but impede it When
we dilute the food too much. T0 drink, therefore,
when it is not required, is in itself noxious; inde-
pendently of these draughts being generally
fraught With disease, from their very nature.
Eating too fast, as well as eating too much, is a

 

 

 

 

 

96 RESPIRA'I‘ION.

great cause of unnatural and unhealthy thirst, and
of other bad consequences. Liquids much above
or much below the temperature of the body are
equally injurious to it.

 

SECTION II.

RESPIRATION~—VVEIGHT OF THE AIR.

THE weight of a large column of air procures an
easy and stro‘ng respiration, abundant in its repa—
ratory principle, and consequently communicating
to the economy the advantages Which result from
a good respiration, that is an aptitude to support
strong and continued exercises, a ready reparation
of waste, and a remarkable energy of all the organs.

Under a pressure of a column of air a little less
than that at the level of the sea, of that, for example,
Which rests on mountains of a moderate height,
respiration, Without being less ample, becomes
more frequent; the circulation increases; the
motions quicken; the muscles are ﬁrmer; the face
more ruddy, appetite more keen, and digestion
more easy. The inhabitants of such localities are
generally more active than those of 10W countries.

This superiority of vigour in the mountaineer
over the inhabitant of the plain appears to be

WARM AND DRY AIR. 97

owing to this, that if, on one side, the column of air
is less high for the mountaineer, this disadvantage
is more than compensated by an atmosphere more
free from caloric and foreign substances, conse-
quently more dense and more pure; so that, every
thing considered, the inhabitant of mountains of
a moderate height respires, in spite of his eleva—
tion, a much more considerable quantity of pure
air than the inhabitant of the plain. Many other
causes of strength exist, such as more active
exercises, &c.

WARM AND DRY AIR.

Dry air furnishes t0 the lungs a more expanded
atmosphere, Which, under a given column, is more
rareﬁed, lighter, and contains less respirable mate—
rials than cold air.

When the temperature is not raised to a high
degree, warm and dry air has scarcely any percep-
' tible effect on the functions of the lungs; it acts
much more by means of agreeable sensation. The
slight acceleration of the respiratory and circula-
tory functions may arise from the fact that, as the
lungs receive at every inspiration a rareﬁed and
insufﬁcient nourishment, the inspiratory movement
is necessarily more frequent.

The effects of a moderate temperature are an
increase in the activity of our organs, an accelera-

F

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

98 REGIMEN.

tion of all our movements, a quicker and more easy
execution of all our functions: such are the effects
we perceive 0n the return of spring, after a cold
damp Winter.

If the heat be greater, the atmosphere becomes
considerablyrareﬁed; it undergoes a remarkable di—
minution of the principles necessaryfor respiration;
and we suffer from it in a greater or less degree.

The effects of the heat of the atmosphere on the
other organs are muscular debility, oppression of
the intellectual faculties, especially during the night,
cerebral excitement to such an extent as to produce
restlessness, abundant cutaneous exhalation, fre-
quent thirst, dislike to all kinds of animal food,
preference for vegetables, for acid fruits, for acidu—
lated and refreshing draughts, diminished appetite,
predisposition to internal irritations, and diminu-
tion of size.

We diminish the heat, by preventing the rays of
the sun entering the rooms; by frequently water-
ing, with cold water, the ﬂoor, the walls, and even
the external parts of the dwelling; and by erecting
fountains in the centre of large apartments: by
these means, the temperature is deprived of all the
heat Which the water takes up in passing into
vapour. This may also be effected by establishing
communications With the cellars, the temperature
of Which in our climates is rather low, Whatever
may be the heat of the weather.

WARM AND MOIST AIR. 99

The production of animal heat may be dimi—
nished by avoiding everything Which excites the
circulation. For this purpose, it is sufﬁcient to
attend to the feelings, and to abstain from every-
thing that produces too much excitement, such as
animal food, heating liquors, &c.

A superabundance of animal heat may be got
rid of by taking refreshing draughts, Which fur-
nish materials for cutaneous and pulmonary eva-
porations. These secretions are chieﬂy useful in
freeing the economy from the excess of caloric.
Diminished muscular exercise, cool bathing, and
clothing that is a good conductor of heat, act also
in the same manner.

WARM AND MOIST AIR.

A warm moist temperature is the most debilita-
ting that can be imagined. Respiration becomes
difﬁcult; every organ grows languid; the nervous
system is as if struck With torpidity; and even the
least movement becomes irksome.

As the decomposition of animal and vegetable
substances takes place soonest in a warm and
moist atmosphere, this air is the most likely to be
impregnated With putrescent emanatiens, and is,
if not the determining cause, at least the} most
powerful predisposing cause to yellow fever and
plague. Intermittent fever, together With many

F ‘2

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

100 REGIMEN.

other epidemic and contagious diseases, are deve-
loped in this state of the atmosphere.

COLD AIR.

Cold dry air affords abundant nutriment to the
lungs, and procures for the economy athletic
organs, and all the attributes of the sanguine
temperament. The increase of vigour and strength
Which occurs in cold dry weather depends also on
the keener appetite, easier digestion, diminished
transpiration, and greater frequency of motion.

Cold produces a bracing effect, if it be not so
severe as to prevent the organs reacting energeti—
cally against the debilitating impression Which it
at ﬁrst causes. Muscular'exercise, warm clothing,
&c. are the means of enabling the body to resist the
morbid effects of cold.

‘ The cold moist temperature Which produces
such deleterious effects upon the Whole economy,
exercises this inﬂuence chieﬂy through the medium
of the skin.

RENEWAL OF AIR.

The accidents Which arise from a close conﬁned
atmosphere are caused principally by the action of
two gases, the carbonic and the azotic, united to
the absence of oxygen. The greater the number

RENEWAL OF AIR. 101

of individuals collected in the same space, the
more quickly is the air contaminated. In theatres,
for instance, Where many persons are collected
together, fainting ﬁts are of frequent occurrence
amongst delicatefemales. They do not generally
last long, but in some states of health they'may be
dangerous. '

A free circulation of air may be easily preserved
by paying attention to its speciﬁc gravity. If the
difference of temperature between the external air
and the atmosphere of a close apartment be so
great, that the sudden entrance of the cold air by
the Windows would endanger the health of the
persons in the room, the circulation of air may
be insensibly kept up by ventilators placed in the
ceiling. The rareﬁed air escapes by these openings,
and is replaced by the cold air Which enters by
the door.

It is by an analogous mechanism that ﬁre acts
in renovating the atmosphere. The column of air
Which occupies the funnel 0f the chimney, is rare-
ﬁed by warmth, and escaping by the chimney, is
replaced by the stream of air Which enters at the
opening of the stove. All these streams of air dis-
appear necessarily, and are replaced by denser air,
Which enters through the doors or Windows.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

102 REGIMEN.

AIR OF VARIOUS PLACES.

No climate nor country can of itself be called
absolutely healthy nor unhealthy. These qualities
can exist only in a relative manner. Thus one
climate is healthy for one individual; and unhealthy
for another. For instance, a residence in tropical
climates is certain to increase the dry and irritable
constitution of an active bilious person; but it will
have a most beneﬁcial effect on the moist organs
of the lymphatic temperament. A person of this
constitution ﬁnds the great heat of tropical climates
the best and most efﬁcacious stimulant.

The same remark applies to 'the elevation of
places. Persons of sanguine temperament, of dry
and irritable constitution, in short all Who are pre-
disposed to irritation of the lungs ﬁnd a residence
in mountainous countries injurious. The ﬁne pure
and dry atmosphere for Which they are so cele—
brated tends to develope the diseases of such per-
sons; they quickly ﬁnd that by residing in places
regarded as particularly salubrious, they have
abridged the duration of existence. The calm, mild
and less rareﬁed atmosphere of the valleys is better
adapted to their constitutions, in proportion as it '
retards the action of the heart and lungs: besides,
by inhabiting elevated spots, they are exposed to
the electric phenomena, Which are there so com-

 

AIR OF VARIOUS PLACES. 103

mon, and have such an effect upon irritable
temperaments.

On the other hand, persons of a lymphatic
temperament who pine away and become languid
in low places and in narrow valleys, where the air
is conﬁned and impregnated with humidity, ﬁnd
a sudden accession of vigour and activity when
they change their residence for the hills. Indivi-
duals who were apathetic and torpid, who could
scarcely crawl about in their humid atmosphere to
satisfy their most pressing wants, quickly become
active and laborious when transplanted to a dry
and bracing atmosphere. The pale sickly hue of
disease changes to the rosy tint of health, the ma-
ladies peculiar to low moist countries speedily
leave them, and they enter as it were upon a fresh
and improved existence.

AIR AS AFFECTED BY VEGETABLES.

Vegetables cannot exist without air, and they
corrupt this ﬂuid nearly as much as animals. If
a plant be placed under the receiver of an air
pump, and the air be exhausted, it soon dies. If
it be placed under a bell—glass ﬁlled with atmos—
pheric air, so contrived that no fresh air can enter,
the plant will also die. If we examine the air in
the hell, we ﬁnd, 1st, that it is diminished; 2dly,
that it has lost a portion of its oxygen, and that

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

104 REGIMEN.

the oxygen is replaced by almost an equal quantity
of carbonic acid gas. If a plant be placed in pure
carbonic acid gas, it soon perishes.

So far every change is the same as that produced
by animals; but there exist other phenomena
Which prove that if vegetables vitiate the atmos-
phere under certain particular circumstances, they
are, generally speaking, destined to purify it, that
is to absorb, for their own growth, that which is
hurtful t0 the respiration of animals, and to give
back in exchange the only gas Which is serviceable
to them.

Thus, 1st, all the green parts of plants, exposed
to the rays of the sun, and brought into contact
With a mixture of air and carbonic acid gas,
decompose the latter by absorbing the carbon and
a portion of the oxygen, increase in weight, and
set at liberty the other portion of oxygen gas: in
the shade, this does not take place, and the pre—
sence of carbonic acid gas causes the plants to fade.
2d1y. During the night, vegetables absorb oxygen
gas from the atmosphere, and convert part of it
into carbonic acid gas; but as soon as their leaves
are submitted to the solar rays, the greater part of
the oxygen absorbed during the night escapes, the
carbonic acid found in the atmosphere is decom-
posed, the oxygen is set free, and the carbon is
absorbed. ‘

From What has been stated, we may conclude,

AIR As EFFECTED BY VEGETABLES. 105

1st, that plants shut up during the night in our
bed-rooms, are injurious; QdIy, that they are so
even in court yards, where the rays of the sun do
not enter; 3d1y, that on the contrary it is doubly
advantageous to place them in spots warmed by
that luminary; 4th1y, that the air which we breathe
in the evening in woods is unwholesome, because
it contains but little oxygen, and is loaded with
carbonic acid; 5thly, that it is injurious to leave
the windows of rooms which are overlooked by
large clumps of trees open, after sunset; 6thly, that
the morning air in woods or copses, when the sun
is above the horizon is the most wholesome we can
breathe, as the atmosphere is then puriﬁed by the
action of the sun’s rays on the green leaves, and
enriched by an increase of oxygen.

Flowers, like leaves, affect the air, that is, absorb
oxygen gas, and exhale carbonic acid gas; but they
do not appear to exhale oxygen under the inﬂu—
ence of the sun’s rays. The air in a receiver
under which a rose is placed, becomes, in the day
as well as night, after a certain time, suﬁiciently
deprived of its oxygen to extinguish a lighted wax
candle. In this respect, that is in the absorption
of respirable air, ﬂowers shut up in rooms are quite
as injurious in their effects as any other vegetable
substances.

But ﬂowers have another effect which it is
impossible to attribute to the absorption of oxygen

 

 

 

 

 

 

106 REGIMEN.

gas, and the formation of carbonic acid. This
effect is owing to the odoriferous emanations from
the petals. So powerful are these odours, that in
some individuals they cause headachs, fainting,
syncopes, &c. Numbness 0f the limbs, loss of
speech, and convulsions have been produced by
ﬂowers; but, in the most ordinary cases, persons
affected by the deleterious emanations feel weak
and sleepy, the pulse becomes slow, the action of
the heart feeble, and cases are mentioned in Which
death itself has been produced by very powerful
odours.

It is generally at night that the injurious effects
of ﬂowers are felt, When the sense of smell is no
longer voluntarily exercised.

AIR AS AFFECTED BY COMBUSTION.

The air is often Vitiated by the vapour of bodies
in combustion, such as charcoal, coals, wood, &c.
Moist vegetable and mineral coals are the sub-
stances Which cause most accidents.

This shows how dangerous it is to place pans of
charcoal or coals in rooms Where the current of air
is not sufﬁcient to take away the deleterious gas
produced by the combustion of these bodies. It
is also a dangerous habit to shut the pipes of the
funnels of stoves before going to bed, in order to
concentrate the warmth in the apartments.

 

[07

AIR AS AFFECTED BY PUTRID EMANATIONS.

The air is also Vitiated by the emanations from
sewers and other places enclosing vegetable and
animal putreﬁed substances. It is likewise Vitiated
by emanations from slaughter-houses and burial
grounds.

When bodies have been lying for a long time in
tombs, in a state of extreme putrefaction, and the
exhalations from them are allOWed to impregnate
the open air, they are as dangerous as any
emanation Whatever. The evils resulting from
these emanations from graves should be prevented
by having the burial grounds at a distance from
towns, springs and rivers subject to overﬂow, &c.

DWELLING IN THE VICINITY OF FORESTS.

What has been said before of the effects of
vegetables, is a proof that a dwelling situated in
the vicinity of a forest cannot be healthful, if the
forest be too close, or planted on a low and natu—
rally moist soil. There should be sufﬁcient space
round the dwelling for the air to circulate in
every direction, and for the rays of the sunto
strike upon the trees in the vicinity of the house,
so as to decompose the carbonic acid Which they
exhale, and counteract the moisture Which might
result from their proximity to the apartments.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

108 REGIMEN.

But, if the trees be too thick and too near the
houses, they produce stagnation of the air, and
augment and concentrate its humidity; the dead
leaves and other vegetable substances putrefy on
the ground, and, With their noxious exhalations,
impregnate the atmosphere which is circumscribed
011 all sides. These causes united render the
apartments unhealthy, produce rheumatism, ca-
tarrhal affections, and frequently intermittent
fever.

DWELLING BY THE SEA-SIDE.

The sea—side is Very healthy, except Where the
shore is not sufﬁciently steep to allow the return
of the waters Which overﬂow it in high tides.

The same may be said of the neighbourhood of
rivers and all running waters. There is but one
objection, that they render the air rather cold and
damp; but, as they keep up a constant circulation
of air, their vicinity is decidedly healthy.

DWELLING IN TOWNS.

Persons Who live in large towns are certainly
not so healthy generally as country people. What—
ever care the proper authorities may take to
maintain cleanliness, there are always to be found
narrow streets Where the air does not circulate,

AS TO DWELLINGS. 109

where the sunbeams never enter, and Where the
ground is always damp; alleys Where the air
remains stagnant; angles and obstructions Which
oppose the free current of air, and concentrate
that multitude of emanations continually arising
from so many vegetable and animal substances,
Which are trodden under foot, and form the mud
in the streets. Add to this the delay in taking
away this ﬁlth, the insufﬁciency of the gutters,
and their distance from the drains, and we have a
great portion of the causes Which produce, in
large towns, that puny population, composed of
meager, pale, bloated, lymphatic, scrofulous,
rachitic beings, Who are always ill, and rarely
attain the age of puberty.

Nevertheless, large towns have some advan-
tages. The atmosphere, during Winter, is less
boisterous and less severe, and the changes of the
weather felt less, than in the country, Where epi—
demics appear to be more frequent, and Where
electric phenomena are more dangerous and of
more frequent occurrence.

SITUATION, 810. OF HOUSES.

In cold and moist climates, the chief front of
the house should face the south or the east; the
Windows should look in the same direction, as
the quarter best adapted for dryness, light and

 

 

 

 

110 REGIMEN.

warmth. In tropical countries, on the contrary,
the greatest number of Windows should face the
north, so that fresh breezes of air may enter, and
cool the heated atmosphere of the apartments.

The size of the different rooms in a building is
also a matter of importance. If the rooms are
too capacious, it is difﬁcult to warm them; if they
are too small, the air does not circulate sufﬁci—
ently, and the atmosphere is quickly Vitiated.
This inconvenience is much more prejudicial than
the former; health is soon impaired in close
places, and the most triﬂing maladies rapidly in—
crease.

Clean well-paved yards are preferable in large
towns to gardens; for, if the space be so circum-
scribed that the trees and plants cannot receive
the beneﬁcial inﬂuence of the heat and light, their
proximity is unwholesome and injurious. It is
only in large public places that the chemical
composition of the atmosphere can be favourably
modiﬁed by means of plantations.

We know that kitchen gardens, Which cannot
in any case contribute much to the salubrity of the
air, have an evident effect upon it, if they are not
rendered productive by manuring and watering.

After What has been said of the different altera-
tions to Which the atmosphere is subject, it is
scarcely necessary to observe that no house can be
healthy that is situated near any receptacle of

PERSPIRATION. 111

animal and vegetable matter in a state of decom-
position.

Every Window in the house should be open
during some portion of the day, to allow of a free
circulation of the air. The bed—room‘ Windows
should be shut only at night, and be opened early
in the morning, to let the ﬁrst rays of the sun
penetrate. If the atmosphere be moist, they need
not remain open, except for the time requisite to
ventilate the room.

N othing is more unwholesome than long full
curtains which make the beds look like palanquins.
When the bed—room requires the use of curtains,
the drapery ought at least to be so arranged that
it can be drawn back during the night, to prevent
our breathing a hundred times the same air.

SECTION III.

OF SECRETIONS—THOSE OF THE SKIN
ESPECIALLY.

PERSPIRATION.

The skin emits, throughout its surface, a vapo—
rous ﬂuid Which is absorbed either by the air or
the clothes, and is improperly termed insensible
perspiration. This constitutes the greatest portion

 

 

—‘.me—:“

q___—_-=__ .
d; Aﬂk

 

ta

 

 

112 REGIMEN.

of our bodily loss, varying according to the season,
climate, and a thousand other causes. This per—
spiration, in addition to its purifying effect, helps
to keep the temperature of' our bodies at a ﬁxed
degree.

It is composed of a serous matter containing
some salts in solution, of animal products, of car-
bonic acid, and sometimes of aromata Which have
been introduced into the system With our food, and
it carries With it the surplus heat Which the body
expels.

The skin about the head, feet, and those parts
Which are wrinkled, and are exposed to friction,
yields also an 0in ﬂuid, Which maintains the
suppleness 0f the skin, preserves it from the ma-
ceration Which liquids produce, and defends the
hair against moisture. .

EFFECTS OF LIGHT ON THE SKIN.

The colour of the skin depends in a great
measure upon the action of light. Persons Who
pass their lives in dark places, are pale, wan and
discoloured. Light has the same inﬂuence over
plants: those Which are deprived of light, like
some salads, lose their colour, and become yellow.

The loss of colour Which individuals suddenly
undergo, Who remove from the country to the
metropolis, is the effect of a less brilliant light, and

EFFECTS OF LIGHT ON THE SKIN. 113

we cannot attribute it to temperature, since the
inhabitants of the north experience equally With
those of the south this kind of metamorphosis.

The light, acting through the medium of the
skin, does not limit its action to this membrane;
and the absence or accumulation of this ﬂuid has
remarkable inﬂuence on the rest of oilr organization.
The inhabitants ofplaces deprived of light, prisoners
for instance, shut up in dark cells, miners, and
other labourers Who work underground, and even
persons Who inhabit the ground—ﬂoors in narrow
streets, are not only subject to this loss of colour,
but moreover are attacked With a state of atony;
the exhaling functions of the skin, the motions,
breathing, general circulation, &c. become languid.
There exists however a great activity in the lym-
phatic glands Which are irritated, swell, &c.

The absence of light acts in nearly the same way
on the texture of plants. They lose their colour
and consistence; become spongy, watery and
tender, and lose their bitter and acrid qualities, to—
gether With the ﬁrmness of their structure.

We may judge from this of the injurious effect
of indulging in sleep in the day—time. To preserve,
or to recover health, it is important to renounce
this bad habit.

We should never lose the tonic effects of light,
under pretence of preserving a ﬁne White skin.

 

 

 

 

114 REGIMEN.

The whiteness thus acquired arises from debility,
Which leads to disease.

EFFECTS OF HEAT AND LIGHT ON THE SKIN.

The erysipelatous affections called coups de
soleil generally attack those persons Whose skin is
habitually covered, and consequently debilitated,
delicate and liable to impressions. These attacks
may be avoided by never uncovering the head,
either in walking or bathing; but it is inﬁnitely
better to accustom the skin, during youth and by
degrees, to all external inﬂuences.

It is nearly always the union of caloric With
light Which produces, by the action of the sun’s
rays, all the beneﬁts enumerated in treating of
light.

EFFECTS OF GOLD ON THE SKIN.

The modiﬁcations Which the skin experiences by
cold are contraction, wrinkling, an appearance of
transient rugosity, admission of a smaller quantity
of blood into the capillary vessels, and consequently
a decoloration of the cutaneous tissue, and a dimi-
nution of the volume of the subjacent parts farthest
distant from the great centres of heat and life.
The irritability of the external parts is considerably

EFFECTS OF COLD ON THE SKIN. 115

diminished; the muscular system is numbed, and
movement becomes irksoine; perspiration is sup—
pressed and replaced by other secretions.

If, however, the person Who experiences these
effects, be of a robust constitution, reaction soon
shews itself; the internal organs,being overcharged,
struggle vigorously against the action of the cold;
a centrifugal movement drives the heat and liquids
towards the skin; Which soon recovers a brighter
and ruddier colour than it possessed before.

Generally speaking, cold produces the beneﬁcial
effects formerly described; but it is necessary, for
that purpose, that it produce no disagreeable sen-
sation; and then every function acts With more
energy.

EFFECTS OF MOIST COLD ON THE SKIN.

When the skin is exposed to the action of
moist cold, the moisture is absorbed in large quan-
tities, and the body increases in weight. If this
state continues, persons acquire that complexion
Which so forcibly strikes us in the inhabitants of
Holland. .

Moist cold is, generally speaking, the most
unwholesome of all temperatures, and is injurious
to almost all ages, and to all temperaments, espe—

cially to those individuals, however robust their
6

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

116 REGIMEN.

constitutions, Whose respiratory organs are irris ,
table.

The ill effects of a damp cold atmosphere may, in
some degree, be obviated by attending to the pre-
cepts already laid down, and to those Which Will
be found under the head of clothing. Stimulating
food and drinks are also useful as they tend to pro-
mote reaction.

EFFECTS OF CHANGES OF TEMPERATURE-

A rapid transition from one temperature to
another is dangerous, because the organization has
not sufﬁcient time to apportion its means of pro—
curing warmth or cold to the exterhal inﬂuences.

If the transition be from heat to cold, the system
is in a proper state to resist heat, and is getting
rid of caloric by means of liquid perspiration, but
the sources of animal heat are inactive. The
consequence of this is a collision, for Which the
system is not prepared. The sudden change
from heat to cold generally suppresses the secreting
functions of the skin; and increases those of the
lungs, &c. It also produces inﬂammation, princi—
pally in the membranes of the nose, throat, &c.

The rapid change from cold to heat is less
dangerous than from heat to cold. When the
interval which separates the transition from cold to

 

CHANGES OF TEMPERATURE. 117

heat is but short, the phenomena which arise are
limited to a triﬂing expansion of the ﬂuids} the
perspiration is quickly apparent on the skin, and
frees the system of its superabundant heat. If,
however, the interval between cold and heat is
more considerable, then all the phenomena occur
which were enumerated in treating of excessive
heat, namely, difﬁculty of respiration, feeling of
oppression, distress, &c.

As to rapid changes of temperature artiﬁcially
produced, we ought always to guard against them,
because, in the ﬁrst place, there is 'no necessity to
bear them; and, secondly, because they are more
pernicious than natural changes.

‘ I

i
J
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118

CHAPTER III.

REGIMEN OF THE MENTAL ORGANS OF THE BODY
“THOSE 0N WHICH MIND DEPENDS;
OR 0F SENSATION, &c.

SECTION I.

TOUCH—ITS RELATION TO REFINEMENT.

WHEN We look at the progress of the mechanical
and liberal arts, we see how much this sense has
improved by civilization, and to What extent it has
in its turn contributed to it. At ﬁrst, the sense of
touch is sufﬁciently rude in the savage; but he
soon learns to distinguish, With a sensation of
pleasure, the ﬁneness, for example, of the wool
employed in our clothing, and the softness of the
tissue of velvet.

This sense becomes also a powerful means of
reﬁnement ; and a delicate touch is of inﬁnite utility
in the art of sculpture. Perhaps, in drawing, an
inversion of natural order has led to the different
mannerisms of style Which arise from seeing the
object in one direction only. These mannerisms

 

MEANS OF IMPROVING TOUCH. 119

may also have arisen from following a path con-
trary to that of the ancients. The Greeks were
taught to model before they began to draw, and
this induced the necessity of studying the object in
all its various parts. The history of art conﬁrms
us in this opinion. Man knew how to build a
long time before he knew how to draw. Large
regular pyramids were erected in Egypt, and the
art of sculpture was ﬂourishing in Greece, When
the artist scarcely knew how to trace an outline,
and was certainly ignorant of the use of light and
shade in producing the effect of relief.

MEANS OF IMPROVING IT.

The following are the precautions necessary to
preserve the delicacy of the sense of touch—clean-
liness, ablutions, baths. It should also be
defended from the impression offoreign substances,
and from all exercise capable of thickening the
scarfskin 0f the body and especially of the ﬁngers.

Constant exercise of the sense of feeling pro-
duces extreme delicacy. A proof of this may be
observed in blind men, Who, from being obliged to
exercise the touch continually, and to be very
attentive in the exercise of it, can distinguish co-
lours by the different sensations produced upon
the skin by the various inequalities in the surface
of each colour.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

1‘20 REGIMEN.

VVMany amusements may be made to contribute to
the perfection of this sense. Children may be
taught to recognize money by merely touching it
with the ﬁnger, to read the impression, to judge of
the weight, &c. .

If the sense of feeling remain too long without
being exercised, it acquires an excessive sensibility,
which frequently proves dangerous to the brain.

The exercise of this sense, however, is absolutely
prejudicial to persons whose sensibility exceeds
their voluntary mobility. Such exercise requires
an active life.

SECTION II.

TASTE—LATE DEVELOPMENT OF THIS SENSE.

As regards the choice and the manner of
savouring food, we may safely say that taste is not
developed until an advanced age, and ordinarily in
a more general and stronger manner towards forty.
It would therefore seem to be generally in direct
relation with the acquired habits, and with a kind
of instinct which leads us to choose what may best
nourish and stimulates our bodies, which at that
age have become less active and vigorous, and
require more exciting food.

121

MEANS OF IMPROVING TASTE.

The best precautions that can be adopted to
preserve this sense in a state to perform its func-
tions, are abstinence from hot meats, acids, alcohol,
aromatics, spices, bitters, and from every thing
that may disorder the organ or inﬂame the mem-
brane of the tongue.

The most intelligent and experienced cooks
declare that to keep this sense, Which to them is so
essential, in a ﬁt state for tasting, they ﬁnd it ne-
cessary to be very abstemious both in eating and
drinking, to preserve as much as possible for food
its proper ﬂavour, to neutralize that Which affects
the sense of taste too powerfully, and to give to
meats a mild ﬂavour. Wine tasters never swallow
What they taste.

If the taste be altogether perverted, so that all
savoury aliments are disagreeable, nature herself
demands abstinence. T0 disregard this advice,
and endeavour to reanimate the taste, would only
aggravate the disordered state of the sense, and
derange those organs Which are under its inﬂuence.

If the sense of taste is intended to warn us of
the effect that may be produced on the stomach by
any substances we are disposed to take, and if,
being once palled, it can no longer fulﬁl that duty,
too much care cannot be taken in preserving it

G

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

122 REGIMEN.

pure in children, and we cannot blame too much
the foolish custom that some people have of giving
them high seasoned food, strong liquors, &c.

This sense may be exercised in different ways.
We may attempt, for instance, to distinguish the
difference of taste in various substances With the
eyes shut. Many indeed, cannot distinguish, in
this manner, the difference between White currants
and red. We may miX a small quantity of diffe-
rent substances in water, and endeavour to ﬁnd, by
the taste, What they may be: this practice might
extend to an inﬁnity of objects difﬁcult to be
distinguished.

SECTION III.

SMELL—ITS PURPOSES AND EFFECTS.

As nature has placed the organ of taste upon the
road by which the food enters into the stomach
that, like a vigilant sentinel, it may prevent the
introduction of any substance that might derange
its economy, she has in like manner placed the
sense of smelling upon the entrance of respiration,
that it may judge of the quality of the air about to
be transmitted to the lungs. In a state of nature,

 

PURPOSES AND EFFECTS OF SMELL. 123

substances that are repugnant to the taste and
smell, are injurious to the stomach and lungs.

The sense of smelling, however, is not conﬁned
to judging of the quality of the air used in respi—
ration: it also assists the taste in judging of food,
and it increases the pleasure connected there
with.

It likewise becomes the source of a number of
enjoyments, and one of the best means for the pre-
servation of living beings. It is by the sweet smell
of ﬂowers, that the awakening of nature from sleep
is announced in the spring, and that we are called
to inhale its health—inspiring breath; and that, in
the autumn, is indicated the putrefaction of sub-
stances which might be inj urious to life.

The smell of certain odours is refreshing and
revivifying; whilst others, in some individuals,
produce disorders of the nervous system. The
ﬁrst of these two. effects is caused generally by
strong and penetrating odours; the second gene—
rally by the exhalations from petals and stamina
which emit a faint and sickly smell, such as lilies,
narcissus, tuberose, saffron and the majority of the
liliacea: many other ﬂowers, such as honeysuckle,
jasmin and elder are said sometimes to have similar
effects. The smell of several substances, such as
henbane, stramonium, poppy, and walnut, is said
to induce a kind of drowsiness and frequently
headach; the smell of betony, giddiness; whilst,

G 2

 

 

 

 

 

 

124 REGIMEN.

on the contrary, plants of the labiated class pro—
duce no unpleasant effect.

Rousseau called the sense of smell the sense of
imagination, which, however, it does not appear to
be, except in a secondary degree. In warm cli—
mates, When the atmosphere is constantly perfumed
by the exhalations from ﬂowers, every thing is
animating without our perceiving it.

MEANS OF IMPROVING IT.

Early in the morning, at sunrise, this sense should
be exercised and refreshed With those natural per—
fumes that are exhaled by the reviving ﬂowers.

Children should early be taught to distinguish
bodies by the smell. From seven years of age, they
may be habituated, while blindfold, to tell ﬂowers
by their scent alone; but it is unhealthy to keep
children always exposed to odours of any descrip—
tion, especially in their bedrooms.

Persons who habituate themselves in youth to
distinguish the primitive odour of simple sub-
stances, will be able to distinguish all the shades
that result from their slightest mixture.

Fresh and dry air, it may be observed, renders
the sense of smell more powerful.

These exercises may be directed to a determinate
end. The mineralogist recognizes the odour of

MEANS OF IMPROVING SMELL. 125

clay by its exhalations 5 and the chemist similarly
recognizes that of his agents. The smell of sul-
phur from rotten eggs caused a suspicion that this
substance entered into their composition, and an
eminent chemist Veriﬁed the fact. Another,
simply from the analogy of smell, discovered
prussic acid in bitter almonds, and thus made
known the causes of their being destructive to cer—
tain birds. The exercise of this sense, among
civilized men, may thus make us acquainted With
the nature of the elements of the bodies Which
surround us.

In all experiments, it must, however, be remem—
bered that strong scents deaden the smell, and
sometimes inﬂame the membrane of the nose.
Constant exercise also wears out this sense; and it
recovers its delicacy by repose.—Snuﬂ' deadens
the smell, by destroying the sensibility of the mem—
brane and by covering it With a thick coating of
ﬁlth.

OF THIS SENSE IN WOMAN.

The sense of smelling in women, is remarkable
for its exquisite sensibility, for the lively impres-
sions of Which it is susceptible, and for the sympa—
thetic effects Which these impressions produce
upon the rest of the system. Some of these effects
are very injurious, Whilst others, Without injury,

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

126 - REGIMEN.

elevate the sensibility to the highest degree of
pleasure.

Females therefore should be particularly atten-
tive to this delicate and susceptible organ. They
should avoid apartments newly painted and deco-
rated, an atmosphere overcharged With the odour
of certain ﬂowers, and generally speaking all scents
too active or too penetrating.

SECTION IV.

SEEING—CIRCUMSTANCES AFFECTING
THE EYE, ITs POWER, &c.

Damp, foggy weather, the reﬂection of a burning
sun, intense cold, and dusty or sandy Wind, are
injurious to the eyes. C001 dry weather, and
gentle heat are favourable.

The eyes soon become weak and bloodshot, if
exercised on minute objects in a steeping position.
It is better to work at a table or desk. The up-
right position of the body has then an inﬂuence
upon the organs of the chest and abdomen, not
less advantageous than on the exercise of the eyes.

T0 diminish the ﬂow of blood to the head, the
neck should be free from all compression.

One eye is generally weaker than the other; and,
as the right eye is most exercised, the left is gene—

LIGHT PREFERABLE FOR THE EYE. 127

rally the weaker. At a certain age, consequently,
the same object is seen at different distances by
each eye, although the individual is not sensible
of it.

As to small objects, the eye is generally able to
read conveniently at the distance of eight or nine
inches, and it may be extended to eighteen or
twenty inches. As to great objects and long dis-
tances, the difference in different individuals is
very great.

LIGHT PREFERABLE FOR THE EYE.

Painters always prefer a light from the north, as
clearer than any other; and When this light enters
through an elevated Window, as a skylight, it is the
most suitable for any work requiring much exercise
of the eyes. It is advantageous also to wear a
shade over the eyes, in order that the light may
fall only on the paper.

Objects seen by the light of candles and lamps
never appear in their natural colours, as in the
mild and equal light of day. Candle—light is also
injurious to the sight; and the more light we have,
as it is always near the eyes, the more we increase
its ill effects, Without correcting its fatiguing
uniformity.

Light should always fall on the object to be
looked at, not on the eyes. We should be careful

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

128 REGIMEN.

likewise not to have the work-table placed in such
a manner as to receive the light from different
points. The light Which comes from behind is
favourable, provided it does not strike on objects
Which reﬂect too much.

That exercise of the eyes may not be prejudicial,
these organs should not be acted upon by a very
bright, or by a very weak light; they should not
be continually in action; nor should they be exer—
cised upon very small or very distant objects;
neither should they be too long inactive, or With—
drawn too long from their natural use.

Direct 01' reﬂected light, when too strong, over—
excites the organ‘of Vision, weakens the sight, and
ﬁnally produces blindness. Nothing is therefore
more injurious to the sight than working or reading
by the glare of a very strong light, in front of a
blazing fire.

The sudden effect of a very strong light, pro-
duces an impression denominated dazzling, by
which the retina, being too Violently shocked, loses
for some instants the power of transmitting the
impressions of sight to the brain. In passing from
darkness to light, the change should be gradual.

The injurious effect of a very strong light, may
be avoided by curtains, blinds, veils and coloured
spectacles. These preservatives, however, espe-
cially green spectacles, should never‘ be used, till
they are absolutely indispensable, 01' When the eye

ARTIFICIAL LIGHT, &c. 129

is for a short time subjected to avery strong light.
Habitual use of spectacles Will render us unable to
endure the ordinary daylight.

A habitually weak light renders the eye very
open to impressions, and preserves its sensibility,
provided the eye be not exercised on any object.
If the sight is strained to see by a very weak light,
the retina is soon fatigued, and the eye experiences
the same effect as if it had been subjected to a very
strong light or Violent exertion. It is the efforts
alone that are made to see by a feeble light, that
render it prejudicial.

Constant exercise of the eyes With a common
light occasions effects analogous to those produced
on the eye by a very strong light.

The sensibility of part of the retina is sometimes
injured even When the eye has not been exercised
in too strong a light or for too long a period.
This occurs When a particular part of the mem—
brane is in action for some time alone.

ARTIFICIAL LIGHT, &c.

In the use of artiﬁcial light, the object should be
to obtain it soft and steady from some combustible
that emits the least smoke possible. Oil When
very pure is perhaps the best artiﬁcial mode of
lighting an apartment, especially if the lamp be of
the best construction.

G 3

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

130 REGIMEN.

The lighted burner of the lamp covered With the
glass, may be again covered With an opaque funnel
0f varnished tin, White in the inside, to receive ahd
reﬂect the rays of light. By this means, the light,
Without making too much impression on the eyes,
which it does not reach till it has been several
times reﬂected, falls strongly on the objects to
Which the sight is directed. If the opaque funnel
conﬁnes the light too much, and it is desirable to
illumine the apartment more generally, a piece of
gauze or vellum paper of a hemispherical shape, or
a ground glass of a spherical 'form may be placed
over the burner. By far the best lamp in existence
is that made by Parker, of 12, Argyll Place,
London, of Which Messrs. Arago, Gay Lussac,
and Savart, commissioners appointed to report on
it by the Institute of France, have given so favoura—
ble an account.

Wax and spermaceti candles give a very soft
and steady light; and, in burning, they do not
emit a disagreeable odour, like tallow and common
oil. Since platted Wicks were introduced, to 0b—
Viate the running down, spermaceti candles, owing
to their greater beauty, have been preferred to wax
candles, and sell at a higher price.

In working by artiﬁcial light, it is better to work
two hours in the evening, and two hours early in
the morning, than four hours successively.

Darkness being the absence of the natural

OF LOOKING AT MINUTE OBJECTS. 131

excitement of the eye, has the effect of refreshing
and recruiting the sight. If darkness exists for a
long time, it increases the susceptibility of the
organ of vision, renders it more subject to impres—
sion and more disposed to become irritable When
exposed to' natural excitement.

Continued attempts to see in the dark, have the
remarkable effect of giving the eye the faculty of
discerning objects by the smallest possible quantity
of the rays of light.

OF LOOKING AT MINUTE OBJECTS.

If the objects upon Which the sight is exercised
are very minute or very close together, it acquires
the faculty of distinguishing the smallest particles
of substances, but loses the power of seeing at a
distance. The reverse ensues in an opposite case.
This can arise only from the fact that the eye is
differently modiﬁed by different kinds of exercise.

T0 obviate the inconveniences that arise from
employing the sight upon objects very close or
very minute, the eye should be exercised in every
manner, Without carrying it to such an extent as
to produce signs of fatigue. Thus, persons en—
gaged in mechanical pursuits, and compelled to
exercise the sight upon minute objects, should live
at the top of the house to obtain as extensive a
prospect as possible, and should cease to work for
a few moments at short intervals, rather than con—

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

132 REGIMEN.

tinue at work for a long time to obtain a longer
period of rest.

Ladies should avoid contracting a habit of
looking too close at the objects With Which they
are engaged. It has been observed that the down-
cast 100k Which deprives the face of all expression
and animation, and frequently gives rise to dislike
or neglect, is conﬁned to classes in easy circum-
stances. This defect, says a celebrated Optician,
has been With reason attributed to a course of
education Which continually exercises the eyes on
objects too close.

In writing, drawing, music, geography and other
exercises, the greatest care should be taken to
keep children at a sufﬁcient distance from What
they are studying: the habit grows upon them,
and becomes so conﬁrmed that there is at last no
hope that it Will be corrected by age.

EYEGLASSES, 8:0.

The subject of eyeglasses naturally leads to a
consideration of the danger that may result from
the use of the eyeglass Which fashion has sus-
pended t0 the necks of our modern youth, under
pretence of assisting a short sight, and Which
many females have adopted from the desire of
wearing an additional ornament.

There is something so exceedingly impertinent
in quizzing, that this alone ought at least to render

EYEGLASSES, &c. 133

it of rare occurrence. Besides, the practice of
looking at any object With one eye only, contracts
the features, and gives an expression of self—
suﬁ’iciency and insolence capable of spoiling the
prettiest face in the world.

We may here observe that many persons whose
sight is very good, are in the habit of wearing
glasses to preserve the sight, as they say. Nothing
can be more absurd than this. All artiﬁcial means,
green and blue glasses as well as others, gradually
weaken the sight. The ﬁrst notions of optics
sufﬁce to explain Why, and experience sufﬁces to
prove it.

Those Who are compelled to make use of arti-
ﬁcial aids, such as watch—makers, seal engravers,
and astronomers, gradually lose their ordinary
sight. Necessity alone should induce the use of
spectacles.

CIRCUMSTANCES INJURIOUS TO THE EYE.

Late hours, excess of every description, great
labour and fatigue,10ng continued reading, mental
application, looking too long and attentively at
the same object, intense light, and sudden tran—
sition from darkness to light, the glare of chande-
liers at theatres and public places, fatigue the sight
and dull the brightness of the eyes. There is
another kind of amusement, as tasteless as it is

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

134 REGIMEN.

transient, Which fatigues the eye still more, namely.
artiﬁcial ﬁreworks, Without Which no féte is thought
complete: these focuses of rapid light, the dark—
ness Which succeeds, the coldness of the night,
fatigue the eye, and contribute, With late hours, to
dim its lustre.

The open air, variety, exercise in shady spots,
twilight, glancing quickly at many objects; are
useful means of easing the eyes, and preserving
them from any serious weakness.

Bright colours produce upon the eye similar
effects to very strong light; as dark colours, such
as violet and indigo, produce eﬁ’ects analogous to
darkness. .

The approximation of two glaring colours pro—
duces more excitement and fatigue on the eye,
than When they strike the senses singly. The
splendid editions, in Which the jetblack print forms
a strong contrast to the White bleached paper, are
exceedingly fatiguing to the eye.

It is not unworthy of remark that the colour of
the stuﬁcs employed in clothing would seem to
vary With climate. A large assembly of the middle
classes in tropical countries, presents to the eye
more scarlet and bright yellow than in the north.
In all countries, the civilized woman, Whose taste is
elevated, likes mixed colours less glaring, because
she distinguishes the most ﬁne and delicate shades,
in the same way that she prefers ﬁne lines and

 

MEANS [OF IMPROVING THE EYE. 135

more difﬁcult proportions t0 squares and too simple
relations.

MEANS OF IMPROVING THE EYE.

The eye should be early accustomed to embrace
an immense horizon, and examine the details of the
ﬁnest and smallest objects.

In the ﬁelds, the child should be taught to eX—
amine the plants, the seeds, and domestic animals;
and to measure distances, and observe at What dis—
tance awhite spot on a black ground, orablack spot
on a White ground is visible to the eye. Adistant
landscape is an excellent object for the exercise of
the eye.

In town, a child may be instructed to distin—
guish objects that are nearer, to observe the shape
and proportions of the furniture of the apartment,
to dispose it symmetrically, and even to examine
microscopical objects. In the house, the child
may also amuse herself in discovering the same
objects in her books of pictures Which she has
seen in her walks, and compare the productions of
nature With the imitations of art.

The sight is joined to manual address in the
mechanical arts. Writing, which extends the
dominion of man, Which establishes a communi-
cation With those Who are dear to us in distant
lands, and Which unites society and nations in one

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

136 REGIME: .

bond of mutual friendship, requires the use of a
practised eye and skilful hand.

In every object, that comes under their obser-
vation, young persons should endeavour to distin—
guish the contrasts, the form, the colour, the dis-
tance, the motion and the optical errors.

The form, the length, the breadth, the angle,
the circumference, the relief, all may be brought
to an arbitrary scale, to a foot, to an inch, and t0
the division of the circle into 360 degrees. It is
evident that these Will be the best exercises for
young persons to practise, to enable them to dis—
tinguish by degrees the difference of shapes.

The eye should be taught to discern primitive
colours, and observe how they are modiﬁed by
different lights, reﬂexion, contrast and blendings.
The chiar’oscuro, and harmony of tints, in land—
scapes, should be particularly noticed.

Relative and exact distances) and the effects of
atmospheric refraction should be judged by the
eye, also distances on land, and in the air, and of
objects in the ﬁrmament.

Persons Who apply themselves soon learn to
judge by the eye of the velocity or slowness of
any object in motion, as a vessel, With sufﬁcient
accuracy.

Lastly, optical errors, such as a stick apparently
broken in water, the ﬁgure of an image introduced
into a polished cylinder or into a pyramid, are

NATURE OF SEEING. 137

games as amﬁsing as instructive, Which succeed
With advantage in proportion as education advances.

The art of modelling is most important; and
from that arises the art of drawing. Memory
recalls the objects Which have passed before our
eyes ; the hand ﬁxes them, and represents them to
others as they appeared to ourselves. Mannerism
in drawing, is the defect of seeing and reproducing
things always in the same manner, and of seeing
only one thing in the objects Which are imitated,
such as the drawing, the colouring, the action, or
the grouping. This does not really arise from a
defect of Vision, but from a want of feeling, judg-
ment and practice.

Painting in oils is an accomplishment not very
suitable to a lady. It produces a sickly habit, the
room is never ﬁt to receive her friends in, and after
all she produces something just tolerable, Which
her friends out of compliment think themselves
obliged to praise in opposition to their better
judgment.

SECTION V.

HEARING—NATURE OF HEARING.

Through the ear we are affected by the Vibra-
tions Which agitate the internal molecules of sono-
rous bodies. This sense enables us to hold com-

 

 

 

 

 

138 ' REGIMEN.

munication With our fellow—creatures, to improve

and exalt our understandings by the mutual inter—
change of ideas, and thus to increase the circle not
only of our physical but of our moral relations.
The charms of eloquence and the concord arising
from sweet sounds contribute to place this sense
amongthemostdelightfulandimportantwepossess.

It frequently happens that one ear is more ac-
cessible to sound than the other ; and, in this differ—
ence, has been supposed one reason Why so many
persons are incapable of conceiving harmony.

Attention to sounds exercises itself early, 31-
though imperceptibly, in children. Many nurses
ﬁrst awaken them by making a noise With a
key 01' With a rattle. Ere long, the child begins
to distinguish the voice of its mother 5 endeavours
to discover whence the sound comes; and by
a series of similar exercises easy to imagine,
it succeeds in imitating singing. It may at last
arrive at as high perfection as one Who directs a
grand orchestra, and Who, in the Whole, peéceives
the least false sound in the most insigniﬁcant inn
strument.

ACTION OF SOUNDS ON THE EAR.

The action of intense sound on the ear, is like
the action of highly ﬂavoured substances on the
taste: it deadens the sensibility‘of the organ and

6

 

MEANS OF IMPROVING THE EAR. 139

causes deafness. Artillery men and braziers are
consequently often afﬂicted with deafness.

From the same cause, the membrane of the tym—
panum or drum frequently breaks, either in the
centre or at the sides. This is generally produced
by the discharge of a large piece of artillery, the
bursting of a powder magazine, or a very loud
clap of thunder. It is this breaking of the tym-
panum that gives many artillery men the means
of sending out the smoke from their pipe by the
ear.

When the ear has been long accustomed to faint
soft sounds, it becomes susceptible of the slightest
impressions, and acquires great nicety and delicacy.

Silence, that is the absence of any exciting action
upon the ear, furnishes the repose necessary to
repair its sensibility. If too protracted, the ear
becomes incapable ofresisting the shock of a rather
loud sound.

MEANS OF IMPROVING THIS SENSE.

Constant exercise of the ear produces a prodi—
gious development and wonderful delicacy in that
organ. Physiology furnishes many instances of
savages Who hear at an immense distance, and
blind men in Whom the delicacy of that sense is
almost incredible.

To know from What side the sound comes, to

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

140 REGIMEN.

determine the distance at Which we perceive a
sound, to analyse the most complicated relations
of a fugue, and thoroughly to distinguish the
slightest shades of articulated sounds, are qualities
Which nothing but a very ﬁne ear, matured by
exercise and practice, can attain.

Experience alone Will enable us to judge of the
quarter from Which sound comes.

A valuable exercise consists in endeavouring to
determine the distance at Which we perceive a
sound. This, however, is a complicated problem,
for sound radiates and is reﬂected on all sides.

After the age of seven years for girls who are
very susceptible, we may use a pianoforte to make
them appreciate sounds; to ﬁnd out the octave,
ﬁfth and third, and the seven intervals; to distin—
guish the relation of a sound in a cord, and that
of the simultaneous sounds of Which it is com-
posed; and the succession of sounds in melody
and in harmony, from the most simple combination
to the most complicated. To discriminate the
least appreciable sound contained in an octave,
the young person can scarcely attain before the
age of puberty.

It is not easy to say Whether the difﬁculty Which
several individuals experience in imitating the
articulate sounds of a foreign language, depends
solely on the organs of voice, 01' at the same time
on those of hearing. The inhabitants of Otaheite,

 

MEANS OF IMPROVING THE EAR. 141

could never be brought to pronounce the name of
Cook; they called him Tou—tou. The Chinese
frequently pronounce the word Christus, Ki—li—si-tu,
because they are accustomed only to monosyllables.

Of all recreations, music is perhaps the most
reﬁned and intellectual, and is never brought to
any thing like perfection except in the most Civi—
lized nations. It is a delightful exercise both for
the ear and voice.

There are people, however, on Whom music pro-
duces n0 pleasing effect. Pope was of this number,
although no one Will refuse him the credit of a
knowledge of rhythm in poetry.

The infant resembles in this respect the uncul-
tivated adult, Who loves nothing but noise: edu-
cation alone enables us to distinguish sounds, and
to judge of melody and harmony.

Ladies Who have a good ear and correct taste
are generally fond of music ; and if to this they
unite a good voice and application, they may play
and sing well enough to please. Music ought to
be always played in correct time; and, in singing,
Whether the singer have a ﬁne voice or not, every
word should be distinctly pronounced. But ladies
generally overlook these trivial matters!

 

 

 

 

 

 

SECTION VI.

THOUGHT, &C.—WRONG EMPLOYMENT 0F
THOUGHT.

Females in the higher classes of society, whose
slightest Wishes are anticipated by a crowd of eager
servants, and Who pass their time in reposing on
soft cushions, or at most exercising their ﬁngers
on slight and useless works, are generally in an
artiﬁcial state; and their passions are over-excited
in proportion as bodily exercise is abandoned.

A perpetual round of amusements, assemblies,
theatres and balls, constitutes the most active part
of their time; and after spending hours over their
toilet, they regularly extend their Vigils to the
dawn of the following day. The inevitable conse-
quence of this continual perversion of natural
order, by Which they convert night into day and
day into night, is that the deepest injuries are
done to health.

The functions of the human organization must
of course be lamentably deranged, When the body
is kept during the Whole night, in a continual and
forced state of excitement, by the glare of torches
and chandeliers, and by the unnatural excitement
of gaming and dancing; while at the return of day,
When the sun inspires others With renewed life

 

 

EFFECTS OFWRONGLY EMPLOYING THOUGHT.143

and health, these faded and debilitated creatures
resign themselves to sleep, in order to repair, by
feverish and untimely rest, a delicate constitution
exhausted by watching and by fatiguing enjoy-
ments. While the faculties of the mind direct
themselves inward for repose and sleep, every
night of watching agitates and exercises sensibility
and passion; and, While the day guides these facul-
ties toward the exterior, and disposes all beings to
mobile life and to action, sleep draws inward those
forces Which nature tends to radiate and expand.

EFFECTS OF WRONG EMPLOYMENT.

As this nocturnal existence, this perversion of
the laws of nature, is sustained only by artiﬁcial
means, and unnatural stimulants, the functions of
the nervous system are quickly deranged, oppressed
and debilitated. As the other functions are in-
ﬂuenced by the nervous system, they soon partici-
pate in its unhealthy state. The muscles become
weak, the complexion becomes sallow, the organs
of life inactive, the taste depraved, and the stomach
Will receive no aliment that is not hot, sour, or
bitter. ‘

The consequence of this general enfeeblement
and this habitual repose 0f the body, is a complete
atony of the female organization 5 or, if it is excited,
it is frequently only by spasmodic agitations or by

 

 

144 REGIMEN.

some Vivid emotion, caused by novel spectacles, or
the impetuous whirl of the dance.

An exaggerated and irritable sensibility is the
characteristic of listless and indolent women; and
nothing is more common than this nervous state
in women whose fortune permits inaction. Hence
arise almost all the hysterical affections, the just
punishment of luxurious habits.

EFFECTS OF PASSION.

Such women are irritated on the smallest occa-
sions, and seem to exact the more, in proportion
as they act the less, and are the better served. If
we add to this state of moral exasperation, the use
of coffee, of spices, of wine and spirituous liquors,
irregular hours, and voluptuous dances,—if we
further add the numerous shocks which the system
receives from pleasures, vexations, fears, anger,
envy, and other passions,which usually attend such
a mode of life, we may form some idea of the sen-
sations which must be experienced by a being so
delicate as woman.

The abuse of the passions, which have their ori-
gin in that principle which operates upon all ani—
mated beings, and which we call self—love, forms
one of the most powerful causes of the destruction
of health. Nature intended that the passions
should be only hasty and passing acts. A person

 

EFFECTS OF WRONG EMPLOYMENT. 145

in imminent danger, which leaves no time for re-
ﬂection, must provide for safety by efforts and
means that the excitement of the moment suggests:
but these moments being past, the passions
should yield to the guidance of reason.

Mankind too often employ to their own destruc—
tion, the means Which nature gave for their de—
fence. The passions indeed are often a continual
paroxysm; and instead of a light gale to bear the
ship over the shoals and shallows, they become
a frightful tempest that wrecks the fragile vessel
on the rocks. In excess, all passions have the
same effect: they pervert the natural order and
succession of the movements on Which life
depends.

Under the inﬂuence of sorrow and grief, the
mind seems to abandon the care of the body, to
occupy itself only With the object Which affects it.
We then experience, in the region of the stomach, a
permanent constriction, a sort of tightening, Which
embarrasses respiration, destroys the appetite, and
impedes digestion. All the vital movements are
retarded; the liquids submitted to their inﬂu-
ence are altered; and the parts Which they ought
to nourish necessarily suffer.

As to the Violent and exciting passions, besides
the irregular shocks Which they produce in the
different parts of the body, and the irregular im-
pulsions of the liquids Which are their inevitable

H

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

146 REGIMEN.

consequence, they produce another effect Which,
though more slow, is not less fatal. They always
destroy the mucous substance that serves all the
organs as an envelope, and to Which they owe
their apparent volume, the beauty of their form,
and their ﬂexibility. The freshness of the com-
plexion and the attractions of the person then
vanish, and are replaced by a meagreness and a
feebleness often incurable.

It is certainly more easy to explain all the
ravages of the passions than to indicate the means
of protection against them. Every one must
consult her own powers. It is evident, however,
that the Whole train of passions, which pervert the
order and succession of the actions of life; are as
much at variance With the character of a female,
as they are capable of destroying her charms by
their Violent effects.

LOVE OF GAMING, &c. IN PARTICULAR.

Amongst these passions, the love of gaming
must be regarded as the most dangerous for
women, both on account of the states of mind
that it creates, and the circumstances Which
accompany it, such as late hours, artiﬁcial light,
heated atmosphere, and inaction of the muscles;
all Which are injurious to the health. A woman
Who has something more to risk even than

 

LOVE OF GAMING, &c. 147

health, should be doubly interested in avoiding
gaming.

The continual conﬁnement Which gaming re-
quires, deprives its Victims of the salutary inﬂuence
of the air, which is one of the most essential in—
gredients in our means of existence, Which ani-
mates us, and Which gives to our organs the tone
and the spring they require. The freshness of a
beautiful morning, the grateful emanations from
ﬂowers, and the soothing spectacle of awakening
nature, are all lost to the person Who wastes
nights. in gambling and days in sleep.

But there is another passion almost as fatal as
gaming. It is not an uncommon occurrence to
see maniacs in our lunatic asylums Who have been
reduced to that deplorable state by the imprudent
or culpable zeal of narrow-minded bigots, Whose
fanaticism does not permit them to perceive the
true end of religiOus institutions. Medical men
meet With so many instances of insanity arising
from ill directed and frightful zeal, that they have
placed itAin a separate class under the name of
religious madness; as they have established a
third under the name of erotic madness.

REMEDY FOR THESE’EVILS.

The causes of these evils being known, there is

no other remedy for them than a return to nature.
H 2

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

148 REGIMEN.

If health is not to be fatally undermined, mode—
rate exercise of the body and repose 0f the mind
are absolutely requisite. The laws of nature must
be strictly adhered to : the night must be devoted
to sleep, and the day to active exercise, When the
mind is not employed on subjects that both im-
prove and amuse.

The ancients, Who took so much care to raise up
healthy and robust citizens for the state, directed
the most serious attention to the education ofgirls,
as beings destined to bear and to nourish a Vigo—
rous posterity. In this respect, we have failed to
follow their example.

Intellectual exercise, it has long been shown,
greatly modiﬁes the brain and nervous system,
gives it great activity, and renders the acts Which
it executes easy. It even appears that the portions
of the brain the most exercised, increase most in
size; as those that are not exercised decrease. Im—
moderate and Violent exercise of the intellectual
faculties, however, would not be more prejudicial
to females than those toilsome labours Which
should be exclusively devoted to men.

If, on the other hand, the brain be allowed to
remain long inactive, all the operations of the
mind are attended With difﬁculty. Nothing,
accordingly, is more injurious to the intellectual
faculties, than the long vacations given in our

large public institutions. In fact, When intellec—
6

 

GUIDANCE OF PURSUITS. 149

tual and moral inactivity exist, the Vital functions
then possess that plenitude of energy, Which the
brain, under other circumstances, either shared or
took from them. The appetite, indeed, is then
always good, digestion easy, sleep sound, pulse full
and regular; and this may be observed particularly
in the infant in the cradle, Who does nothing but
eat, drink and sleep.

A mean should therefore be chosen between
these two extremes; and the exercise of the intel—
lectual faculties and moral qualities be combined
With that of the organs of nutrition and of
locomotion.

GUIDANCE OF INTELLECTUAL PURSUITS.

It is not only useful alternately to exercise the
brain and the muscles, it is also useful to change
the exercise of the different faculties of the brain,
and vary the object of intellectual exertion. All
parts of the brain Will thus have the repose and
exercise necessary for them.

But if the immoderate development of the intel-
lectual faculties is injurious to a female’s health,
abstract studies, deep research, and meditations
Which seem to concentrate all the powers in the
organ of thought, must be eminently prejudicial.
Immoderate development of the intellectual facuL

 

 

 

 

150 REGIMEN.

ties, cannot exist Without,'in some respect, en-
croaching upon beauty and the graces.

It is With reason, therefore, that Rousseau, who
recommends that females should be better
instructed, and be taught to think, to decide, to
learn, and to cultivate their minds as much as their
persons, nevertheless advises that they should not
be occupied With mathematical sciences or abstract
truths, but in developing their natural talents, and
ﬁlling up their leisure time With easy and
agreeable studies.

By giving this direction to the education of
females, we, in fact, conform to the nature of the
sex, and add to the charm and the power of
beauty.

SECTION VII.
SLEEP—NATURE OF SLEEP.

Sleep is the natural consequence of protracted
mental exertion. After being awake sixteen hours,
more or less, according to the individual case, a
feeling of languor, fatigue and exhaustion manifests
itself in the organs of relation or those of sense,
the brain, &c. Repose is requisite; and the indi-
vidual feels pleasure in indulging in it. If we dis—

NATURE OF SLEEP. 151

regard the voice of nature, if we endeavour to keep
of sleep by the use of any exciting causes acting
upon us either outwardly or inwardly, the organs
of sense, brain, &c. acquire a surplus of excitement,
Which operates on the interior organs. This
excitement explains the reason why the inclination
for sleep is less overpowering When the hour of
repose is past. If sleep does not put a stop to this
excitement, it increases to a degree of morbidness,
and the organs become deranged.

Sleep is the suspension of the relative functions,
Which, When we are awake, are in a state of exer-
cise; and it is characterized by the absence of sensa-
tion, thought and voluntary movement. For sleep
to be sound, this suspension of all the faculties
must be entire: there must be, as physiologists
say, complete loss of all consciousness and of
self.

Sleep renews, in the organs of sensation, of
thought and of motion, the excitability and ten—
dency to action Which have been destroyed by
exercise during the day: it dissipates lassitude,
favours restoration, and. brings back all their pre—
vious energy to the exhausted organs.

TIME OF SLEEP.

Night is the time for sleep, because, during
darkness, the exciting causes, Which kept the

 

 

 

 

 

152 REGIMEN.

senses in action during the day, are naturally With-
drawn; and to prolong, beyond a certain time, the
action of artiﬁcial excitements that have been sub-
stituted for those furnished by nature, can never
take place Without injury to the entire organiza—
tion, and hastening old age.

It is worthy of remark, that, in our climate, the
animal creation passively obey the changing
length of day and night, rising With the sun and
going to rest When it sets. Even the creatures
termed nocturnal, and gifted With eyes requiring
little light, are busied only during the hours of
twilight.

We can never entirely repair, by sleeping in the
day, the injury sustained by being up all night.
The uneasiness endured, and the excitement to
Which we are necessarily subjected in order to keep
awake during the hours that should be devoted to
sleep, can never be repurchased by the repose that
succeeds. All the sleep possible cannot prevent
the excitement having taken place and acted inju—
riously on our organs. Besides, in the day time,
there are always exciting causes from Which it is
difﬁcult totally to abstract ourselves.

The heaviness disclosed in the features of those
excitable and arid persons Who turn night into day,
and the paleness of their complexion, are convincing
proofs that the sleep Which they court When the
sun is above the horizon, is never so sound, or so

 

TIME OF SLEEP. 153

refreshing, as that taken during the night, in the
absence of every thing that may excite the senses.
Why are so many ladies of fashion, who surely
cannot be accused of the abuse of stimulants, of
such palid complexions, and Why does their sight
fail them prematurely? Precisely because they
think it a matter of indifference Whether they sleep
by night or day. They Who sit up all night expose
themselves not only to the destructive effects of
late hours on the health, but they lose the salutary
inﬂuence of the sun’s heat and light, the more
oxygenated atmosphere of day, and many other
advantages that all the art in the world can never
replace.

As there are seasons When we cannot retire to
bed the moment that darkness Withdraws the sti—
mulants that are necessary to excite the senses,
and we cannot be guided by the rising and setting
of the sun, (speaking Without reference to our
artiﬁcial habits) the hours of sleep should be regu—
lated, so that mid—day shall always be the middle
of the time allotted to action, and midnight the
middle of the time devoted to sleep; that is, we
should lie down, and get up, at hours equally dis—
tant from the middle of the night.

During Winter, this is of especial consequence, as
regards the preservation of sight, to those persons
who are obliged to work by artiﬁcial light. They
should work, by candle-light,three hours over night

H 3

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

154 REGIMEN.

and three hours the next morning, instead of
working six hours in succession.

In large towns, Where the wealthy inhabitants
scarcely rise before mid—day, and are not thinking
of sleep at midnight, the reverse of this custom
exists. People suppose they must go to bed later in
summer, because it is light later; but they altoge-
ther forget that it is also light earlier! they dislike
to go to bed in the evening, because it is light;
and yet they lie in bed in the morning long after it
has ceased to be dark. These prejudices have
considerable inﬂuence upon the health; and they
should speedilybe abandonedby all persons desirous
of preserving their organs of relation in a healthy
and Vigorous state. The general law of nature
points out night as the time for repose, and day
as the period for the exercise of our functions;
and to this all living things conform, but man and
woman in an artiﬁcial and health—destroying state
of society.

But there are some persons, Who sleep eight
hours at a time, Who say they cannot go to sleep
at eight in the evening, because they have always
been in the habit of going to bed late. Let them
get up at four in the morning, and during the day
keep their organs in a state of activity by means
of muscular exercise; and, before they repeat this
three times, they Will ﬁnd no difﬁculty in going to

 

TIME OF SLEEP. 155

sleep at eight in the evening, and waking at four
in the morning.

One objection naturally occurs against what has
been said, as regards the hours that should be
devoted to sleep, namely, that the rules laid down
are applicable only to persons who live in the
country, or who have nothing to do but to attend to
their health, and cannot be followed by the inha-
bitants of a large town, fettered by occupations
that must be attended to at ﬁxed hours over which
they have no control. This objection is forcible;
the obstacle is real; but still it may be removed;
and it would be creditable to any government to
consult scientiﬁc men as to the best means of thus
improving the health of the people. Let govern—
ment merely change the hours at which the move»
ment of the principal axles shall commence, round
which all business revolves, and which seem to ﬁx,
by their progress, the duration of labour, the hours
of pleasure, &c. Let the courts of law and all
government ofﬁces be opened three hours earlier,
and we should thereby gain a reform in the health
of oﬁicial people, lawyers, government clerks, and
the numerous class of merchants who are quickly
approximating in weakness that feeble class of
society called fashionables.

 

 

 

 

 

 

156 REGIMEN.

0F BED-ROOMS.

The necessary attention having been paid to the
salubrity of the position of the habitation, every
apartment may be used for a sleeping room, pro-
vided it is not situated in a large town.

In large towns, in addition to the ordinary
precautions, the apartment should afford the means
of Withdrawing the senses from exciting causes,
till custom renders their inﬂuence insensible.

The bed—room ought to be above the ground-
ﬂoor, and perfectly free from all humidity. It
should be large and spacious, and the Windows
open during the day. By night, there must be
nothing to consume the fresh air, nor concentrate
the foul atmosphere round the bed; neither candles,
ﬁre, animals, nor ﬂowers. The curtains should
not be drawn.

The communication between the bed—room and
other adjoining rooms may be left open. In the
hottest nights of summer, it might be injurious to
the health of some, in town or country, to allow
the entrance of the night air during the time the
sun is down. The night air, cold, humid and
charged, in some cases, With carbonic acid in great
quantity, acts more injuriously upon the economy
during sleep, than at any other period. Rheuma—
tism and other diseases produced by damp cold are
then more easily contracted.

 

BED—ROOMS, ETC. 157

OF BEDS, &c.

W001 mattresses, and down beds particularly,
should be proscribed. These animal substances
preserve too much warmth, and retain the animal
exhalations too strongly.

Persons accustomed to sleep on a hard bed, Will
rarely be deprived of sleep during the hours allotted
for it. If they are obliged to travel, the very worst
inns will be unable to deprive them of rest.

The sheets, blankets, mattresses and bolsters
should be shaken up every day; and, during that
operation, a current of air should be kept up in the
apartment, by opening the Windows opposite to
each other. This precaution is not recommended
for the purpose of rendering the bed softer, but for
cleansing it of animal vapors.

All persons Who wear much covering 0n the
head are liable, if it should happen to get removed
duriiig the night, to sore throat, toothach and
blood—shot eyes. It is desirable, from a very early
age, to sleep Without any kind of covering for the
head. Every description of ligature, especially
about the neck, cannot but be dangerous during
sleep.

To those Who are desirous of preserving an
elegant shape, the position in bed is of consequence.
The best position, for this object, is When the body
is extended horizontally 0n the back, to have the

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

158 REGIMEN.

head very little raised. Persons, indeed, Who are
subject to cerebral congestions should, in bed, lie
With the head higher.

WAKEFULNEss, &c.

Studious persons should abstain, some time
before going to bed, from any operations that
strongly excite the brain. Reading in bed is a bad
habit, except When you cannot sleep and when
this wakefulness is caused by a strong excitement
of the brain, intense thought, or sorrow: in this
case, as the effect cannot be Werse, reading may
semetimes serve to Withdraw the attention from
the predominating idea,’ and to induce sleep.

When the brain is so excited by any mental
occupation as to prevent sleep, a more efﬁcacious
means of removing the excitement than reading, is
to get up and dress. A vertical position gives a
powerful direction to the ideas Which originated,
or were merely prolonged, in the reclining position.
If the mind would be harassed on returning to
bed by the fear of losing the results of thought, all
that is necessary to be remembered may be com—
mitted to paper, and the occupation of the brain
being thus Withdrawn, the previous excitement
Will naturally be succeeded by sleep. If sleep be
banished by any other cause, it is still advisable to
leave the bed; for there is nothing more hurtful

 

DURATION OF SLEEP. 159

than the excitement induced at night When we
cannot sleep.

If we do not obtain sufﬁcient sleep, the restora-
tion is imperfect; the organs are still suffering
under a degree of irritability, the result of Which is
the production of morbid irritation, or at least eX-
haustion and premature decay. In fact, the act of
being awake produces material loss, and also pre-
vents its being replaced by fresh organic particles
in the system: there is therefore a lvoss, and
impossibility ofrepairing it. Excessive meagreness
is the result, generally accompanied by derange—
ment of some organ.

Nothing brings on premature old age more than
want of sleep. When it does not produce all the
effects we have stated, it still has the effect of
hastening the progress of life, or rather of con-
suming it Without giving time to enjoy it. It is
folly to talk of doubling existence by trenching on
the hours destined for sleep: it is a voluntary sub-
traction from the sum total of life, Without any
real gain.

DURATION OF SLEEP.

Too much sleep produces, on the mental and
muscular organs, the effect of long privation of
exercise. The brain, plunged in a kind of torpor,
ceases to be excited by thought; the muscles are

 

 

 

 

 

 

160 REGIMEN.

less disposed to action; and, as the Vital organs
always continue their operations, the Whole exis—
tence of the individual is soon reduced to the
assimilating functions; and we quickly perceive all
the symptoms that denote the predominance of
these faculties over those of the mind and the
muscles. The complexion becomes soft, pale,
feeble, by the long obscurity in Which it has
vegetated.

The more, however, that the organs of sense are
excited by day, the more need there is of sleep.
We cannot assign absolute limits to the hours to
be devoted to sleep, because its duration must
depend upon the exhaustion of the powers of the
organs.

Individuals Who are easily excited, in Whom the
acts of the mind and muscles are multiplied, and
Who are quickly exhausted, have most need of
sleep. The more they can take, the better they
feel: they cannot, Without inconvenience, sleep less
than eight hours. On the contrary, apathetic
persons in Whom the brain is little susceptible of
impressions, and only performs moderate acts,
requires much less sleep. They Who do not actively
think, scarcely want sleep: they are in a kind of
dose all the time that they are not thinking: six or
seven hours of sleep are to them quite sufﬁcient.

A person of a nervous irritable constitution, after
being up all night, is pale and weary the next

SLEEP IN RELATION TO AGE, ETC. 161

morning; whilst one Who is little subject to im—
pressions, is not much altered in appearance. A
cup of strong tea or coffee restores the functions of
the latter, to a proper conditiOn 3 Whilst the slightest
stimulus might bring the organs of the other to a
degree of morbid excitement.

SLEEP IN RELATION TO AGE AND SEX.

In early youth, frequent and prolonged sleep is
the best way of advancing growth, and of removing
that irritability Which predisposes to affections of
the brain. In Old age, sleep should not be
indulged in during the day. The custom of
sleeping after dinner arises from imposing on the
stomach more labour than it can manage: the Vital
organs are then compelled to Withdraw, from the
other organs of the economy, the strength Which
keeps them in action, that they may be enabled to
perform their own functions. The sensation of
drowsiness after meals is, ofcourse, to be remedied
by eating less.

It is sometimes asserted that a woman requires
more sleep than a man, because she is weaker and
more delicate. This assertion, however, is not
very correct; for if the female has not the muscles
and brain so much developed as the male, neither
does she use the same muscular exercises, or follow
the same intellectual pursuits: thus every thing is
equalized. The hours of sleep necessary for a woman

 

 

 

162 REGIMEN.

must, therefore, be regulated principally by her
constitution and her mode of life.

Sleep is more necessary after mental, than
bodily, toil. After labour of the brain or excessive
indulgence in pleasures, the organization requires
more sleep than after muscular exertion. This is
one of the many reasons, Why peasants enjoy, With
less sleep, a better state of health, than persons
Whose professions require very serious exercise of
the mind.

SECTION VIII.

VOICE—EFFECTS OF EXERCISING THE VOICE.

The organs of the voice are exercised in conver-
sation, reading aloud, declaiming, and singing.

Vocal exercises in general affect the peculiar
organs of the voice, those connected With them,
and the respiratory organs. The voice is rendered
stronger, more sonorous, more powerful, and more
ﬂexible, by the complete and repeated play of its
organ; and respiration is rendered more free,
complete and perfect, by frequent and deep
inspirations. The secondary effects of these
exercises inﬂuence the digestive organs. If they
are carried to a great extent, they affect all the
functions.

 

163

CONVERSATION, READING, ETC.

Conversation is the most moderate exercise of
the vocal organs. Lively agreeable conversation
is the best mode of passing the time immediately
after meals, While food is yet undigested.

Reading aloud differs little from the action of
speaking. It does not, however, like conversa-
tion, afford opportunities of rest. Certain works,
Where the periods are very long, do not even allow
the reader the faculty of renewing her inspirations
with sufﬁcient frequency. The effects of this
exercise are accordingly somewhat more marked.
Pliny recommends reading aloud, to render diges-
tion more easy, and to remedy weakness of the
chest.

Declamation exercises, in still greater degree
than the preceding, the vocal and respiratory
organs; but it frequently requires Violent efforts
that may be hurtful. Of all vocal exercises, de-
clamation is most serviceable in rendering articu-
lation easy and correct, and in removing defects.

Without making children declaimers, they may
be usefully exercised, When they are met together
for amusement, in trying Who can be best heard
at a certain distance, in the open air; and in
endeavouring to recite a speech, or say it by heart,

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

164 REGIMEN.

more distinctly than others. In more advanced
age, young persons may further learn how to
modulate the voice, to quicken 0r retard it at
pleasure, to give eﬁ'ect to emphatic words and the
turn of a phrase, and to separate every sentence by
its proper pause and interval. They Will then strive
to speak With all the purity and all the correctness
that the organs permit, until, animated by their
feelings, they know how to pronounce them With
that energy Which is natural and suitable.

SINGING.

Singing requires more movement and effort
than the preceding exercises of the voice.

In singing, frequent respiration is not necessary:
on the contrary, the air should enter the chest
slowly. If we inspire or take in too little air at a
timeJ the voice is vaeillating and weak; and if we
make eﬁ‘brts in breathing, it equally fatigues: there
is,therefore, a certain measure, which must be
found in this respect. It is requisite also not to
take in at a breath too many sounds in singing,
or too many words in declaiming.

Many teachers of singing do not pay sufﬁcient
attention to the management Which the organs of
the voice and respiration frequently require in
young and delicate females. The exercise of pro-
longing sounds, rising or falling, during Which the

 

SINGING. 165

pupil, standing up, the neck extended, and all the
muscles contracted, strives laboriously to produce
a great development of her voice, is, generally
speaking, too fatiguing for a female to endure
more than three quarters of an hour.

Many singers, too much engaged in making
their voice available, stiﬂe the consonants under
the sound of the vowels. Goethe has caricatured,
in one of his romances, ladies Who adopt this
manner of singing.

Singing renders the circulation more active in
the lungs, and strengthens these organs.

If the glottis or Windpipe be relaxed, as is the
case When the voice is hoarse, and produce only
grave sounds, this inconvenience may frequently be
remedied by slight astringents and weak acids,
or by remedies Which, by gentle irritation, remove
the mucus, as liquorice and aniseed. In other
cases, an excessive sensibility of these parts,
together With the dryness caused by too great
evaporation of the liquids secreted t0 moisten
them, require relaxing by mucilaginous, warm
and mild drinks, such as milk of almonds, orgeat,
gummy and oily emulsions of different kinds,
as the yolk of an egg, Which singers sometimes
use. All fermented and strong liquors injure the
voice by unsteadying the muscles, and ﬁlling the
organ With phlegm.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

166 REGIMEN.

EFFECTS OF VOCAL EXERCISES.

The effects produced upon the organs of the
voice by the exercises in question, must depend on
the particular kind of exercise habitually practised.
Persons Who declaim 01' Sing passages that require
deep tones and a bass voice, develop the part of
the organ, Which forms these sounds, to such an
extent, that it afterwards becomes impossible for
them to declaim or sing passages that require a
sharp, shrill voice.

T0 acquire a grave or acute tone, the singer
must undergo a particular education: for this
reason, singers Who Wish to excel in public, and
who possess a suitable organization, should select
exclusively particular parts; for if they Sing all
parts Without discrimination, the voice is not likely
to acquire the necessary perfection in any tone.

If physiology did not demonstrate that low and
acute sounds require a different form in the con-
stituent parts of the organ, What passes in the
prolonged action of the voice upon various tones
would tend to prove it. It has often been remarked
that, after being fatigued With reading, for a
long time, in a sharp tone of voice, we rest our-
selves, and are able to continue reading, for a long
time, by passing to a 10W tone.

 

EFFECTS OF VOCAL EXERCISES. 167

It is here that the laugh should be mentioned.
It has by no means, in ladies, the beauty of the
smile. Among those emotions Whose effects are
so injurious to beauty, may especially be distin-
guished that boisterous gaiety Which produces
bursts of laughter. This convulsive movement
eventually impresses a character of imbecility on
the most beautiful countenance, and forms, at the
angles of the mouth, two curved lines, Which seem
to inclose it between two parentheses. Immo-
derate laughter is a species of Wild grimace,
and often resembles the hideous convulsion of
hysterics. Habitually indulged in, it ultimately
distorts the features, creates wrinkles, gives the
look of old age, and destroys the beauty of the
countenance.

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PART II.

CLEANLINESS.

CHAPTER I.

TREATMENT OF PARTS UNDER THE SURFACE.

SECTION I.

PLUMPNESS OR EMBONPOINT~DEFECT OF
PLUMPNESS.

A TOTAL want of roundness of form, a yellow
skin, hollow and livid eyes, sunken cheeks, nose
shrunk so as to be absolutely ridiculous, the
mouth fallen in, and the neck lengthened and
showing all the subjacent parts, are the eﬁ’ects of
extreme thinness, With Which, however great the
regularity and beauty of the features may be, it is
scarcely possible to be less than hideous.

0F ACQUIRING PLUMPNESS. 169

Meagreness may be owing to some fault in
digestion; and, in that case, it requires medical
aid; for want of assimilation of alimentary sub—
stances may depend upon many particular causes,
Which must be known before the proper remedy
can be applied. More frequently, however, it is
owing to violent or long continued exercise 01‘
labour, to bad choice of food, salt, spiced 0r bitter,
t0 unwholesome water, to indulgence in Vinous 0r
spirituous liquors, to hot and dry air, to excessive
mental application, to violent or sorrowful pas—
sions, t0 abandonment t0 pleasures, protracted
vigils, &0.

OF ACQUIRING PLUMPNESS.

It seems obvious enough, that to acquire plump-
ness it is necessary to counteract, bytheir opposites,
the causes to Which meagreness may be attributed.
A certain degree of plumpness may, we are accor—
dingly told, easily be acquired by persons Who will
conform to certain rules in diet and exercise, and
Whose circumstances Will admit of their leading the
kind of life Which is necessary for such a purpose.
The rules prescribed for it are a dietetic curiosity,
and as such they are here given.

“A female desirous of acquiring fulness of ﬁgure
must forget all projects of business, take very
little active exercise, indulge in passive exercise,

I

 

 

 

 

 

 

1’70 CLEANLINESS.

take much rest, never incur fatigue, but indulge
in the most complete listlessness and inactivity, not
in darkness, but in very faint light, in some seques-
tered, quiet, cool and rather humid place, Where
the air is bland, Where no noise is heard, and
Where she is not liable to be startled 0r surprised.
She must eat much and often, of slightly exciting
food, proper to retard the Vital movements, yet
rich in renovating powers; at rising, a cup of
chocolate With yolks of eggs, but Without vanilla;
before dinner, a bath sometime continued, and
followed by gentle frictions, but With as little eX-
ercise as possible; and after the bath, she may lie
down on a sofa, take a cup of chocolate; and sleep
till it is time to sit down to dinner. At dinner,
she may join in lively conversation, for the pur—
pose of creating an appetite and assisting diges—
tion; may eat rich soup, fowl, lamb, rich veal, 0r
juicy beef, roasted or boiled, to preserve their
nutritive particles, but not overdone; and if she
eat ragouts, they should not be highly seasoned,
but rendered nutritious by the gravy and juice of
meat: preparations of rice, ﬂour, milk, cream, and
new laid eggs, custards, chocolate, chocolate cream,
and cream cheese, may vary the repast, or be taken
between meals. Her drink should be water, pure,
or scarcely coloured With good old Bordeaux Wine;
and she must abstain from sour fruits, liquors,
tea and coffee. It is ﬁnally necessary that she

 

OF ACQUIRING PLUMPNESS. 171

avoid all anxiety, and endeavour to feel indifferent
to every sensation, reﬂect as little as possible, and
occupy herself With lively and agreeable subjects;
shun sitting up, gaming, all strong, afﬂicting, 0r
turbulent passions, and all excesses; sleep a long
time, ten hours at least, and, When not asleep, rest
as much as possible listless, in dim light, talk little,
and indulge in every thing Which tends to pro—
duce relaxation in the activity of the functions.
Assimilation then goes on in the most perfect
manner; and the skin having recovered its tone, a
movement takes place from the centre to the cir—
cumference Which circulates the nutritive juices
throughout, and gives substance to the exterior
envelope, the state of Which is so essential to
beauty. This mode of life would be quite
frightful to an intellectual and active woman; but
it very soon gives a plump appearance, as well as
freshness and brilliancy, t0 the skin of those Who
are capable of adhering to it.”*

“ The methods for acquiring plumpness now
described, are also suitable for producing fulness
of particular parts, in meagre persons. Gentle
frictions W'ith a ﬁne linen cloth, heated and applied

* M. Caullet de Vaumoral cites the regime which he has seen.
applied in the Bey’s Seraglio at Tripoli, to women fattened.
against a certain day, by means of repose and baths, assisted by
a diet of nothing but Turkish ﬂour mixed with honey. Fifteen
days, he says, were sufﬁcient for the purpose !

12

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

172 CLEANLINESS.

warm to the parts, will also be found efﬁcacious in

reviving the organs Where Vitality is torpid.”
Tepid baths are more necessary to persons Who

have an excess of plumpness than to any other.

OF EXCESSIVE PLUMPNESS.

“To get rid of this luxurious obesity, the regimen,
we are told, must be precisely the reverse of the
preceding. Strong exercise must be taken several
times a day, on foot or horseback, Whatever the
weather, and be prolonged a quarter of an hour
daily, until each time of exercise extends to two
hours. Particular care must be taken to keep the
body constantly occupied, or if preferred, in the
study of some subject the pursuit of Which is
attended by fatigue, such as botany 0r mineralogy.
This Will increase the activity of perspiration.
Less nourishment must be taken than usual, very
strong tea or coffee for breakfast, and for dinner
nothing but light food, such as herbs, spinach,
sorrel, asparagus, salads, dry fruits, and confec-
tions, all highly seasoned, according to their nature.
N0 meat, bread, farinaceous vegetables, broth, or
milk, must be taken, and only two meals a day,
the quantity of food at each being gradually dimi-
nished, and exercise used immediately afterwards,
The drink should be acidulated. Perspiration
should be promoted as much as possible, either by

—-—-—-—~~r»~. —-xu~r «W q , .‘\

 

FLACCIDITY. 173

f atigue, the quantity of clothing, or the weight of
blankets in bed. Even gentle sudoriﬁcs may be
used. Finally, it is necessary to exert the mind,
study much, encounter cares and troubles, talk
much, sleep little, rise at daybreak, and go to bed
at midnight.”

SECTION II.

FLACCIDITY.—-—REMEDY, &c.

Without being deﬁcient in plumpness, some
persons (10 not possess sufﬁcient ﬁrmness and
tension in certain parts.

The best method of remedying this would be
doubtless to get fat; but, as excessive plumpness
is unbecoming, means have been adopted of con-
tracting the tissue of the skin.

Gentle and regular frictions or tonic ablutions
are certainly not unsuitable to females Whose skin
is so weak as no longer to preserve the necessary
elastic reaction. The efﬁcaciousness 0f frictions
in this case, has, we are told, been proved by expe-
riments, not only in giving ﬁrmness, but in
rendering the skin remarkably White, soft and
smooth. ‘

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174

SECTION III.

WRINKLES.-—THEIR GRADUAL APPEARANCE
AND CAUSES.

These little furrows, so inimical to female beauty,
faint and scarcely Visible at ﬁrst, gradually make
their appearance at the angles of the eyes. The
ﬁrst is disregarded, and little attention is paid
to the second; but When they reach the number
three, beauty becomes alarmed: that number
announces the endless succession of those deep
furrows Which are gradually about to establish
themselves, on the forehead, under the eyes,
about the mouth, under the chin, round the
neck, on the bosom, and in fact on every part of
the person. What a crisis in woman’s life is this!
It is the ﬁrst intimation of the loss of a blessing,
which is about to leave us; it is the ﬁrst personal
experience of the ﬂeeting nature of all we have
hitherto prized; it is like the foreboding of the
approach of some powerful enemy, Who strikes in
the dark, and never ceases When he has once com-
menced the work of destruction.

As to the cause of wrinkles, it is evident that the
skin Which had been distended by the freshness
and plumpness of youth, loses its elasticity as old

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REMEDIES IN SOME CASES. 175

age approaches, and becomes withered; and the
places Where the muscles were most in action,
retain the traces of their continual movement.
Frequently also wrinkles arise from leanness.
We see young women Whose faces are furrowed
With wrinkles, While others more advanced in
years, thanks to their plumpness Which distends
the skin, are free from these dreadful enemies.

REMEDIES IN SOME CASES.

The remedy for this is to endeavour to acquire
plumpness.

When wrinkles are not caused by the unsparing
hand of time, but have arisen from the bad habit
of grimacing Whi1§t talking or laughing, or from
sorrow, we may reasonably hope gradually to
eﬁ'aee them, by avoiding contortions of the face,
or removing the cause of vexation.

When wrinkles may be expected to follow
certain causes of distention, we ought to adopt the
precautions that skill suggests. To prevent too
great expansion and subsequent collapse of parts,
they should be supported by bands of moderate
tightness.

 

 

 

176

SECTION IV.

AFFECTIONS OF THE SKIN.

The‘skin is exposed to a great number of slight
maladies, the seat of Which is said to be the reti-
cular body under the scarf skin. These maladies
may be easily prevented, but are With difﬁculty
cured.

ROUGHNESS.

Cold produces some of these eﬁ'ects upon the
skin. It makes it more compact, less sensible;
and if the action of air be united With it, it pro-
duces dryness, strong contraction of the skin,
sometimes inﬂammation and redness of the most
sensitive parts, but most frequently roughness
and chaps.

The preventive means are obvious.

Females Who, in some parts, have the skin
covered With minute projecting points, Which must
not be confounded With the papillae 0f the skin,
should use a‘ sponge in preference to a towel:
rough frictions Will inevitably peel off the scarf—
skin at the level of the tubercles, and thus render
the skin more wrinkled and more unequal.

 

177

FRECKLES.

Of all the effects that exposure of the skin to
the air or sun produces, the most disagreeable is
that called freckles 0r tan. If these effects are
scattered over the skinwith intervals between them,
they are called freckles 5 but if they are spread over
the entire surface of the parts exposed to the heat
of the sun, so as to impart a brown tinge to the
skin, they are called tan. The very ﬁnest skins are
the most subject to them: at least, this is the con--
solation generally offered to ladies Who are suffering
under them.

These disagreeable stains are nevertheless a
disease, and communicate a little hardness t0 the
scarfskin. If they are very numerous or diffused
and obstinate, the smoothness of the skin would be
injured by any attempt to remove them; and it
would be still more dangerous to drive back the
humours which produce them.

Ladies thus affected sheuld be careful not to
walk in the sun bareheaded, and should always
wear a veil and a large bonnet, and carry a parasol,
even When the freckles or tan are already ﬁxed, in
order to prevent their assuming a darker hue.

Under various circumstances, women are subject
to brown or reddish spots of a different kind, which
generally appear on the forehead and temples.

I 3

 

 

 

 

I78 CLEANLINESS.

The causes of these irruptions on the skin being
internal, it is advisable not to attempt to remove
them, till the regularity of the system is restored:
ephelides of this description generally disappear of
their own accord.

SUNBURNING, &c.

Sunburning is the brown colour produced on the
skin, by a sharp air, a burning wind, and exces—
sive heat. It is generally very painful.

When these attacks are slight, the face may be
washed every evening with new milk, cream, or
skimmed milk.

Sitting too close to the ﬁre is especially injurious
to the skin. These effects we may observe in those
persons who, during winter, are always close to
the ﬁre, and in the women of the low countries
who use portable stoves, the heat of which changes
the internal surface of the legs, and covers the
cuticle with frightful blotches.

It is worthy of remark that those females who
have longest preserved a beautiful skin, have in all
probability owed it in some measure to sitting
always at a distance from the ﬁre.

 

 

179

DARK SPECKS.

Very frequently the pores of the skin, and
especially of the nose, are ﬁlled With specks of a
black, deep grey, or yellowish colour. They dis-
ﬁgure the face very much; and the skin sometimes
looks as if powdered With charcoal—dust. Some—
times these black specks even protrude; but this
carries its own remedy, because the specks are
then more easily extracted: otherwise, they are as
obstinate as they are offensive.

The mode of preventing their appearance is, in
the ﬁrst place, to abstain from the use of cosmetic
pommades ahd paints, Which, though sold to
whiten the skin, injure it and stop the perspira-
tion. Sleeping With the face under the counter—
pane, wearing a mask, living in smoky apartments,
neglecting to Wipe the dust and perspiration from
the face, are chief causes' both of these dark specks
and 0f freckles. __

A sponge, or very soft brush, With a little soap,
will, in general, by frequent and gentle rubbing,
gradually remove them. The face must be washed
afterwards, and the operation repeated every
morning.

If, in spite of this, the specks remain, the only
means left is to extract them by pressing them With
the two foreﬁngers, which causes neither pain nor

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

180 CLEANLINESS.

inﬂammation, and at most merely produces a
triﬂing redness for ten minutes. It is advisable to
brush or rub them afterwards with a sponge.

PIMPLES.

Of these various affections, some are not
removable, because they belong to the primitive
constitution of the organ; others are necessary,
because they are the excrementitial result of the
last digestions, or of the active impulse of life, which
pushes to the surface of an external organ, a matter
which would become an infallible cause of disease
if it remained a long time in internal organs.

This eruption, though it defaces the skin,
is always a proof of the vigour and the
vigilant activity of nature, in sending out what
would be injurious to health 5 and though personal
attractions may suffer from it, precious as they
may be, they ought never to be put in the balance
against the evils that would result from its
suppression.

The ordinary means which are employed to
remove these specks, are remedies which, by their
astringent action on the skin, drive back the
injurious matter which nature more wisely
endeavours to throw out. The least dangerous
consequence of this perversion of natural action, is

 

PIMPLES. 181

a state oflangour a hundred times worse than the
superﬁcial and triﬂing defects Which females are
so eager to avoid.

When specks and pimples resist the simplest
applications, a 10W diet should be adopted, no Wine
or coffee should be taken, and the drink should be
weak barleywater and lemonade.

 

 

 

182

CHAPTER II.

TREATMENT OF THE MOUTH AND SKIN.

SECTION I.
MOUTH.—THE TEETH.

GOOD and sound teeth are absolutely necessary
to health, to beauty, and to the distinct articula-
tion of words.

HEALTH AS CONNECTED WITH THEM.

Health depends much upon teeth that are good
and sound; good for the perfect mastication of
food, the ﬁrst requisite for perfect digestion, and
sound, that the alimentary substances may not
be impregnated With a Vicious and noxious
secretion. \ 7

The mere irregularity of the teeth, says Mr.
Nichollesfl< “ is attended With bad effects in relation

* See his work, “ The Teeth in relation to Beauty, Voice, and
Health.”—-—Hami1t0n, Adams, and Co. Paternoster Row.

BEAUTY CONNECTED WITH TEETH. 183

to health. Tartarous incrustations and particles of
food lodge in their interstices, and cause diseases
both in them and in the gums.

“ If the food he tainted in mastication, the chyme
and chyle may be equally so, and the passage of
putrid matter into the system must sow the seeds
of disease. Bad breath also arises generally from
unclean teeth, independent of the stomach or other
parts; and, as the air we breathe necessarily passes
through the mouth, it becomes tainted, not only in
the act of exhaling, but in that of inhaling; and
respiration, therefore, is carried on by means of
foetid air, Which, in affecting the lungs, affects the
Whole constitution.”

BEAUTY AS CONNECTED WITH THEM.

The interest of beauty, more than any thing
else, imperiously demands the preservation of the
teeth. Not only have the teeth their particular
beauty, a beauty the result of their regularity,
shape and whiteness, but they also necessarily
contribute to the general beauty of the face.

The oval outline of the countenance, says the
same writer, “ depends not a little upon the con—
formation of the mouth and chin; the position and
form of the latter are determined by that of the
jaws; and these again depend on the regularity of

 

 

 

184: CLEANLINESS.

the teeth. HOW much this oval outline is essential
to beauty needs no discussion.”

When the teeth fall out, the lips and cheeks,
deprived of the natural support Which they
received from them, fall in or hang down,’ the face
becomes wrinkled, even the jaw ultimately con-
tracts, and the whole presents to the sight nothing
but the unpleasing image ofpremature decrepitude.

The appearance of the teeth themselves,
says the writer just quoted, “ independently of
any change they may produce 011 the face, is an
item of no slight importance in the catalogue of
female charms. If the mouth be ever so happily
moulded, the effect of it is completely destroyed by
disease or irregularity within; Whereas any slight
defect, such as excess of size, Will pass unnoticed
When the opening lips disclose organs equally
beautiful in their colour and their regularity.”

The perpendicular position of the teeth, espe—
cially the incisors, must be mentioned ﬁrst as con—
tributing much to the beauty of the head: for, as
Mr. Nicholles observes, “ if the upper teeth project
too much, the mouth becomes deformed; and if
they fall Within the Circle of the lower jaw, the
chin and nose approximate.”

As Mr. Nicholles is here quoted With so much
pleasure, his mistake When he speaks of the phy—
siognomical character of the teeth, in relation to
beauty, must not pass unnoticed.

 

BEAUTY CONNECTED WITH TEETH. 185

Sometimes, he says, “the incisors have rested
their cutting edges on each other, and were rapidly
being ground down in the process of mastication;
at other times, the upper teeth have fallen Within
the circle of the lower; but in all such cases, and
the varieties are both curious and extraordinary,
the malformation has gradually given way to pres—
sure skilfully applied and submitted to With pa-
tience. Now, it would be too much, I apprehend,
even for the warmest admirers of Lavater, to argue
that the character of such individuals had under—
gone a total alteration in three months—for the
cure seldom required a longer period,—or one in
any way commensurate With the improvement of
these organs.”

NOW, no physiognomist ever supposed that any
such cause could produce a “ total alteration of
characterg” but that far slighter causes than that
described by Mr. Nicholles always produce some
change, if not of character, at least of temporary
feeling, even if their duration be very brief, will
be found by any one Who closes the jaws With the
under incisors external to the upper ones, even for
a moment!

A good arrangement of the teeth is one of the
conditions required for beauty. In general, the
more parallel the incisors are, the more they give
to the face the appearance of beauty.

This can be ensured only during the progress of

 

 

 

 

 

186 CLEANLINESS.

the second dentition; and therefore the mouth
should, at that period, be frequently inspected by
a skilful dentist. Even at a later period, art can,
in this respect, remedy, in some measure, the de—
viations of nature, and it offers resources that no
woman careful of her beauty Will neglect. Still
the good arrangement of the teeth is never quite
perfect unless it is the gift of nature. Females,
from Whom nature has Withheld it, Will never be
able to obtain the inexpressible beauty of a natu-
rally regular set of teeth, though they may, by
the skill of the dentist, get rid of the most striking
deformities.

VOICE AS CONNECTED WITH THEM.

A good state of the teeth is also necessary for
the formation of the voice and the articulation of
words. '

The form of the mouth, says Mr. Nicholles, “ is
modelled by those organs, and upon such form
the force and purity of utterance in a great measure
depend. For this purpose, the elliptical confor—
mation is the best. It is With a View to producing,
this effect, so essential in life to the singer, the
orator, and even to the common intercourse of
society, that I always recommend in youthful
patients that those teeth should be removed Which
prevent [cause the imperfection 0f] the elliptical
expansion.

 

CAUSES OF INJURY TO TEETH. 187

“Teeth, in either jaw, projecting inwards, or
misplaced With a sidewise inclination, occasion
uneasiness to the tongue; to avoid Which it natu—
rally contracts its sphere of action, and assumes a
wrong position, This restriction of its natural
movements inevitably occasions imperfect sounds.”

Vacancies more or less considerable in the
dental arch are always injurious to clearness 0f
pronunciation. Hence, as observed by the same
writer, “ even the loss of a single tooth affects the
utterance, and invariably produces a sort of
Whistling sound, When, the tongue naturally en—
deavouring to ﬁll up the vacuum, an unusual ac-
tion takes place, and the sublingual glands, being
Violently compressed, throw out the saliva With
such force as sometimes to eject it from the mouth.”

CAUSES OF INJURY TO TEETH.

Many things contribute to disorder the arrange-
ment of the teeth.

The practice of cracking fruit—stones and nuts
with the teeth, exposes them to the danger of being
either broken or loosened. Biting oﬂ” thread or
silk With the teeth always wears the enamel, and
sometimes does greater mischief.

Where the teeth of one side only are used in
mastication, the teeth on the inactive side are
more liable to accumulate tartar, and to decay.

 

 

 

188 CLEANLINESS.

Eating hot viands discolours the teeth; and
drinking hot liquors more particularly. Cold ap—
plications are not less injurious to them. For these
reasons, the teeth should never be brought alter-
nately in contact With hot and cold substances, as
in drinking cold water immediately after soup.

The use of fermented liquors, Wines, spirits and
seasonings is also very detrimental.—-The use of
metal toothpicks, especially pins, is dangerous.—
The custom of sucking the air through the inter-
stices of the teeth With the tongue, in addition to
being a disgusting habit, spoils the teeth quickly.

One of the remote causes of great mischief t0
the teeth, is the whitish mucous substance with
Which the tongue, in persons of bad habits, is often
covered, especially in the morning. The tongue
transmits it to the teeth, on Which it remains, and
ends by becoming an earthy incrustation, Which
turns yellow, undermines the teeth, pushes down
and destroys the gums, permits the lodgement of
particles of food, Which, becoming putrid, corrode
the teeth, and produce caries.

Lying in bed always upon the same side tends
to accumulate tartar upon that side.

CLEANLINESS OF TEETH.

Regular, well formed, small, White teeth, are
valuable gifts of nature; but negligence and want

 

CLEANLINESS OF TEETH. 189

of cleanliness destroy this beauty for ever, Whilst
assiduous attention preserves indifferent teeth,
assures their duration, and Will indeed give them a
kind of beauty.

The ﬁrst object, therefore, is to prevent the
formation of tartar, and to take away, as they are
gradually deposited, the particles Which remain on
the teeth. This is sufﬁciently easy, and by no
means expensive; for the best dentifrices are com—
posed of simple and common substances, the only
expensive preparations being quack opiates, pow-
ders and cordials, not only useless but positively
injurious.

To prevent the deposition of tartar, the food,
as hinted above, should be masticated on both
sides, and With all the teeth at the same time; for
the teeth, Which are deprived of their natural pres-
sure, become incrusted after some time; and there
is no doubt that this continued inaction would
eventually produce their destruction.

After eating, the mouth should always be rinced
carefully With lukewarm water, to cleanse the teeth
of the sediment Which the masticated food leaves
there.

Rincing the mouth is not sufﬁcient to remove
any portions of food that may become ﬁxed in the
intervals of the teeth: they must be carefully taken
out With a proper toothpick.

 

 

 

 

 

190 CLEANLINESS.

The injurious practice of using pins and needles,
or the point of a bodkin or penknife, instead of a
toothpick, cannot be too severely reprobated. All
persons must know that metal toothpicks, as
already stated, are pernicious, but they appear to
forget that they thus destroy the beauty and fresh—
ness of the gums, by ﬂattening the little conical
points With Which they cover the base of the teeth:
they forget also that apin may not only scratch off
a portion of the enamel, but at the same time leave
behind the deleterious particles of verdigris, 01‘
render them victims to the excruciating pain of a
decayed tooth.

The best tooth-pick is a broad-pointed quill,
and even that should be managed with great
nicety.

If any caries, either progressing, or suspended,
has left holes in a tooth, no substance should be
suffered to remain in the hole. The pips of
fruits, the core of hard pears 0r apples, frequently
enter; and, though less likely to become corrupt
than particles of animal food, ought to be carefully
extracted.

It is also an indispensable usage to rince the
mouth every evening on going to bed, and every
morning on rising. “ The concretion Which is
deposited in the night upon the teeth, says Mr.
Nicholles, and Which is the residuum 0f the eva—

 

TOOTH POWDERS. 191

porated saliva, hardens in the course of a few
hours, and is irremovable by any dentifrice that
would not at the same time destroy the teeth
themselves.” But if the Viscous particles of the
food are thus successively carried off, there Will be
the less occasion for the tooth-brush, and still less
for the dentist. V

TOOTH POWDERS.

Pure water is not always sufﬁcient to restore to
the teeth that brilliance Which is daily injured by
the sediment of the food. A dentifrice therefore
must sometimes be used Which‘is suited to the
nature of the mouth, and Which shall have better
commendations than the exaggerated panegyrics
of interested venders.

Of all compositions for whitening the teeth,
there is none perhaps more simple, efﬁcacious and
innoxious than that Which is chieﬂy composed of
charcoal. This substance possesses, in a high de—
gree, the property of stopping putrefaction. On
this account, it is invaluable for the teeth, because
it may counteract some of the causes Which injure
them. It is also calculated to destroy a bad state
of the gums, to clean them, and to correct one
cause of bad breath. In these respects,powdered
charcoal is the best tooth—powder.

 

 

 

 

 

192 CLEANLINESS.

F z'rst Receipt.
Charcoal, powdered very ﬁne . 1 ounce,
Sugar . . . . 1 ditto,
Essential oil of cloves . . 3 drops,

Make a very ﬁne powder.

This is one of the most simple tooth-powders.

Second Receipt.

Charcoal, well powdered . . 1 ounce,
Red kino . . . . 1 ounce,
Sifted sugar . . . . 4 drachms,
Essential oil of mint . . 4 drops.

Mr. Nicholles, however, objects to charcoal
tooth—powder. He says that “ all powders Which
consist of hard angular particles, and therefore act
by trituration, should be avoided. On this last
account, charcoal is particularly objectionable. In
addition to this, it lodges in the space formed by
a fold of the gum and the neck of the tooth, Where
it presents a livid circle, destructive of that roseate
hue, Which is so characteristic of health and
beauty.” This last is certainly the better argu-
ment; for an impalpable powder may surely be
made of charcoal.

“ Teeth are not to be cleaned either by chemical
agency, or, as many people imagine, by the process
of mechanical abrasion: any attempt to act upon
them in either way would be equally injurious.
The rationale of the use of any dentifrice is, that it
forms a paste With the depesition from the saliva
already mentioned, and, thus combined, the Whole

6

 

TOOTH-POWDERS. 193

is easily expelled by rinsing the mouth out care-
fully With water.”

“ The following is a very good dentifrice. It is
pleasant to the palate, free from all admixture of
acid, and, When levigated with care, presents an
almost impalpable powder, a point of the utmost
importance in all such preparations, of Whatever
they may be compounded. It may be used With
conﬁdence, and Will be found to clean the teeth
thoroughly, rendering them as White as they ought
to be made by any artiﬁcial process.

R. B01.Armen.:
P. Oss. Sepiae.
P. Iridis Florent: 2'15 3;.
P. G. Myrrhae.
P. Casiae aa gss.
M. ﬁat Pulvis Dentifr.

“ Where the teeth have been much ﬁled, or any
decayed parts excavated, or where the loss of these
organs has been supplied by means of pivoted
substitutes, I would advise the Armenian bole to
be omitted, as under such circumstances it might
produce a slight discoloration, and would recom-
mend the substitution of prepared chalk: the recipe
Will then be

Bc- Cretae praepar:
P. Oss.Sepiae,
P. Iridis Elorent: ii gj.
P. G. Myrrhae.
P. Casiae, 551 33s.
M. ﬁat Pulvis Dentifrica.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

194

TOOTH-BRUSHES.

In regard to tooth—brushes, says the writer
before quoted, “ they should be elastic and mode-
rately hard in texture, With the hairs somewhat
apart, for if they are set too close, or too soft, they
form into a mass When used, and are unable to
penetrate into the interstices.” But it is to be
carefully observed, that hard tooth-brushes act
upon the surface of the enamel very injuriously.

After having rinced the mouth With tepid water,
therefore, take a moderately soft brush, moisten it
a little, dip it in the powder, and then rub the
teeth upward and downward.

The brush should be carried to the back of the
last molar teeth, and not limited, as is sometimes
the case, to the teeth in front; and a second brush,
of suitable construction, should be used for the
internal part of the front teeth.

The tooth-brush, says Mr. Nicholles, “ should
be employed freely, not only With a View to clean
the teeth, but because nothing is more salutary t0
the gums than friction. Even stumps and tender
teeth should be thoroughly brushed: however un-
pleasant the operation may be at the moment, the
result cannot be other than beneﬁcial.

In this operation, “ the cheeks, lips and tongue,
should all be put in motion, so as to mix the newly—

 

CLEANLINESS OF TEETH CONTINUED. 195

formed paste With the ﬂuidgand propel the latter
into every interstice for that purpose.

“ The brush should then be washed, and again
applied to the teeth, to free them from whatever
may remain of the powder; and the mouth should
a second time be well rinsed.

CLEANLINESS CONTINUED.

Thus, cleanliness is the grand speciﬁc against
decay of the teeth. It is of consequence both to
health and beauty, we may almost say to morality,
since it is the proof, in individuals, either of order
0r of negligence. Lavater says truly, that the
sight of the teeth is capable of giving us a correct
notion of the character of a person, and that foul
teeth announce mean sentiments.

The cleaning of the teeth should precede the
washing of the face and hands,because the coloured
powder Which is used may attach itself to the lips.

When the teeth, however, are small, and of a
greyish colour, Which is a proof of want of thick—
‘ ness and solidity in the enamel, they must not be
too much rubbed in cleaning, orsubjected, at meals,
to the action of any acid. This state is either
natural, or the result of using bad dentifrices, such
as pumice stone, alum and acids.

In illness, the mouth should be kept in a state
of the most perfect cleanliness. Ladies who are

K 2

 

 

 

 

196 CLEANLINESS.

enceinte, and Who pay for the honour of becoming
mothers by frequent sickness, should be particu—
larly careful in this respect.

THE DENTIST’S OPERATIONS.

If in spite of the precautions pointed out, tartar
still forms on the teeth, it must be removed by
other means; for it occasions purulent discharges
from the gums, loosens and exposes the teeth by
insinuating itself under the gums, causes a dis—
agreeable breath and often more serious accidents,
such as ulcers, &C. It often happens, especially
after illness, and in spite of the most exact clean-
liness, that the teeth thus become yellow and c0—
Vered With tartar. In these cases, it Will be neces—
sary to apply to a skilful dentist to remove this
destructive coating by the operation of scaling.

The cure of diseases Which attack the gums and
teeth is the province of the medical man, but a
dentist must be employed to extract or replace
them. In the present day, thanks to the researches
of scientiﬁc men, this department of medicine is
not neglected as it was formerly, and operations
are now both scientiﬁcally and skilfully performed.

As nothing is more dangerous than the em-
ployment of any one of the numerous pretenders
who operate upon the teeth in London, it is but
an act of justice to the reader to say, that Mr.

 

, THE GUMS. 197

Nieholles, 34, Bruton street, Berkeley Square, is
excelled by no dentist, in profound knowledge of
the anatomy and physiology of the teeth, in great
experience and consummate skill in their treatment,
and in the most perfect ease and delicacy in every
operation to Which they are liable. We speak
from experience.

As to operations on the teeth, Mr. Nicholles
says, “ If the system have laboured under any
particular or general disease, it Will be requisite to
have recourse to professional aid about once in-
three months; but, Where the health is good, and
there has been no neglect, an interval of half a year
may be suffered to elapse Without much chance of
injury.

“ Warm weather is, upon the Whole, the season
in Which all dental operations may be most easily
and advantageously performed; though this is by
no means to be construed into an excuse for the
neglect of the necessary remedies during any other
period. Attention must never be remitted; for no
organs are more easily disordered than the teeth;
and the evil, When once incurred, is not always, or
even often, remediable.

THE GUMS.

The gums to be beautiful, should be ﬁrm, red,
and tight round the necks of the teeth.

 

 

 

 

198 CLEANLINESS.

All the accidents to Which the teeth are subject
have a direct and powerful action on the gums,
Which they corrode and destroy. They then lose
their regularity, freshness, lustre and purity, and
are no longer strong enough to retain the teeth in
their sockets.

If great attention he not paid to the cleanliness
of the mouth, and t0 the general state of the health,
the gums Will soon cease to be strong and fresh,
and quickly shrink, become diseased, and emit a
fetid odour.

This shrinking 0f the gums has also an injurious
effect on the teeth, as it exposes the fangs, and
causes them to decay and fall out.

THE BREATH.

Foul yellow teeth covered With tartar, are not
only frightful to the sight, but communicate
foetid efﬂuvia to the breath, Which is absolutely
disgusting. Of all the antidotes to love, a foul
breath is the most effectual; for, under the
enchantment of a gracious smile, lies a mortifying
and insuperable repulse.

N0 female can be too attentive, or take too much
pains, in averting this dreadful calamity, for cala—
mity it really is; the fond husband turns With ill—
concealed loathing from the treacherous salute,
and the friend Who has listened to the Whisper of

 

THE BREATH. 199‘

conﬁdence Will not again submit herself to the
infectious atmosphere. The feeling of disgust is
destructive, alike fatal to friendship and to love.

Extreme attention to cleanliness of the teeth and
mouth, a regular life, early hours, and Wholesome
food, can alone preserve the natural purity of the
breath.

THE TONGUE, THROAT, &c.

In unhealthy persons, a kind of mucus some—
times exists upon the tongue, Which ought to be
removed, as it covers and destroys the delicacy
of the papillae or little eminences Which are the
organs of taste, and must besides be oﬁ‘ensive.

The throat should be gargled every morning
with fresh water.

If the breath be in the slightest degree unplea—
sant, and there is a certainty that it does not arise
from the teeth, it must originate from a disordered
state of the stomach or of the lungs. Attention to
the state of the digestive organs is indispensable in
the ﬁrst case; and the last requires generally the
aid of a medical man.

Above all things, it must be remembered that
the teeth cannot long continue sound if the diet
be unwholesome or the digestion impaired.

It was a custom of the Grecian women, in order
to improve this portion of their personal attractions,

 

 

 

 

200 CLEANLINESS.

to hold a piece of myrtle between their teeth;
The Roman ladies of our day have still a strong
predilection for the myrtle. But the use of mas-
ticatories is a bad practice; and the pure sweetness
resulting from health and cleanliness is far more
delightful than all the artiﬁcial perfumes of the
medicinal gums.

SECTION II.

SKIN.

Whiteness is the most essential quality of the
skin; freshness and animation is the next.

FRESHNESS.

A quiet regular life, repose during the night,
and exercise during the day, moderation in toil and
pleasure, temperance, sobriety, evenness of temper,
control over the passions, and the calm happiness
produced by a contented mind, are the best cos-
metics Which the physician can prescribe to ensure
a healthy freshness and animated lustre t0 the
skin.

Undoubtedly it is not in everybody’s power to

 

l

PERSPIRATION. 201

take all these precautions, and to adopt this mode
of life, but there are many Who could conform to it
easily, who are however far from approaching it.
Nothing, therefore, is so rare as a real natural
freshness of complexion: it is sometimes artiﬁcial
even in the springtime of life, and amongst those
Who could well dispense With borrowed charms.

The great activity of this organ, the nature of
many of its functions, and its connexion With all
the other organs, render it subject to a variety of
changes and accidents, Which deface the beauty of
its appearance, and do not always yield With im-
punity t0 the application of remedies.

PERSPIRATION.

The skin is soiled and tarnished habitually by
the effect of its own perspiration and ' other
excretions.

Cutaneous perspiration is of two kinds, Visible
and invisible. This waste is as natural and as‘
necessary to life as respiration. Like the latter, it
is continual, and requires constant attention, but
particularly on rising from bed, on getting into a
bath, and on reposing after along walk, When it is
necessary to avoid suppressing it abruptly. The
most serious consequences follow as soon as per—
spiration is stopped.

On rising in the morning, the night clothes
should be taken off and exposed to the action of

K 3

 

 

 

 

 

 

202 CLEANLINESS.

the air, as well as the bed, Which must be unco—
vered, in order that the emanations arising from
nocturnal perspiration may evaporate, and not be
absorbed again the following night.

To attempt to dry linemwetwith perspiration, 0n
the body, by exposure to a current of air, is next
akin to insanity; for the evaporation caused by this
means subtracts from the body a considerable
quantity of calorie, and produces a greater degree
of cold than if' worn in the state it was in.
Exposure to artiﬁcial heat would be much less
dangerous ; but the proper way is to change the
clothes, and thoroughly dry the skin, that all the
moisture may be taken away Without evaporation.

EFFECTS OF PERSPIRATION ON DRESS.

Perspiration completely destroys colours, par—
ticularly those of silk.

Excessive cleanliness alone can prevent it. The
armpits should be washed every morning With
lukewarm water, and dried, in Winter, With a
warm napkin. Immediately that perspiration
commences, a small square piece of ﬁne linen or
cambrie should be put over the sleeve-gusset 0f
the chemise. This little piece, Which may be
termed the moveable gusset, should be about four
inches square, and should be trimmed all round.
A stock of these should be kept, for the purpose of

 

SCALES ON THE SKIN. 203

changing them directly they become saturated.
By this means, the perspiration cannot penetrate
t0 the dress, nor even to the stays; it does'not
remain so as to cool upon the skin; and its evapo—
ration, being thus assisted, is not felt to be so
inconvenient. The bath is also good for immode—
rate perspiration of the armpits; because, Whilst it
facilitates the general perspiration, it diminishes
it in that part.

If these remedies are insufﬁcient (Which can
happen only under some violent ﬂow of perspira-
tion), it Will be necessary to wash again in the
evening under the arms, and t0 sprinkle powdered
root of Florence iris, to absorb the perspiration.
This last custom is exceedingly useful, if'there be
the slightest unpleasant odour.

SCALES ON THE SKIN.

One of the causes that frequently renders the
skin brown and dull, Which produces wrinkles)
and» gives the skin the appearance of being
tarnished, is the existence of small scales formed
by secretion of substances indissoluble in the
atmospheric air, Which unite with the unctuous
liquid furnished by the sebaceous glands of the
skin.

These pellicles, half removed, and discolored by
the oily exhalations 0f the skin, stop up the pores

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

20-1 CLEANLINESS.

and impede perspiration. This produces a yel—
lowish or greyish tint, Which renders the wrinkles
deeper and more Visible.

If, on the contrary, all these pellicles are re-
moved, the skin receives more easily the impres—
sions of the air,—the light plays without obstacle
over the surface, glides over the roughness, and
is reﬂected through the down of the scarf-skin,
Which, being then free from all impurity, acquires
a soft and pleasing brilliancy.

CARE OF THE SKIN.

Owing to all these causes of injury, we may say
that, of all the organs that industry and skill en-
deavour to render more beautiful, the skin is that
upon which the most attention and care are be-
stowed; too frequently, however, by means and
practices not altogether free from inconvenience
and danger.

Whilst, however, medical men condemn, and
With reason, the use of injurious cosmetics and
paints, they all agree that a union of sanative
regulations, With simple and rational applications,
Will successfully embellish and preserve the skin.
Experience daily demonstrates it.

For instance, n0 lady desirous of preserving a
clear complexion, should expose herself unneces-
sarily t0 the burning heat of the sun, or to a high

 

BATES. 205

wind, Which dries and hardens the skin. If by
accident exposed to the action of smoke, or to a
cloud of dust, for some moments, the neck and
face should be wiped With a handkerchief; and a
ﬁre—skreen should be always used, to prevent the
ﬁre burning the face. If there be the least mois—
ture, it should be removed, but gently, and by
applying the handkerchief so as to absorb rather
than Wipe away the perspiration. The custom of
rubbing the skin, especially at night in undress—
ing, should be avoided, as well as exposure of the
face, neck and arms to the open air after being
washed.

SECTION III.

BATHS.

In addition to health and plumpness, excessive
cleanliness, and that constant attention to all
parts of the body Which they require, Will alone
produce the freshness of complexion Which ladies
s0 ardently desire.

Cleanliness indeed is that attractive quality,
Which renders woman almost divine, by removing
every thing from her that may in any way remind
us of the imperfection of human nature.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

206 CLEANLINESS.

PREFERABLENESS OF WATER.

Cosmetic means, employed solely for the sake
of cleanliness, cannot fail to be useful, especially
if water alone be employed.

It is indeed best to add no other ingredient
to pure water, because, though its action might
only give tone and elasticity to the skin in some
persons, and at a certain period of life, it would
produce in others of greater sensibility the effects
of a styptic liquor, and would expose them to
the consequences, almost always troublesome, of
those imprudent attempts Which are too often ha—
zarded to remedy some deformity. Nor, in any
individual, would its effects be either lasting or
Without ultimate ill consequences.

NECESSITY OF BATHS.

The use of the bath is one of the means the
most efﬁcacious for procuring all the advantages
Which are desired in relation to the skin.

The comfortable feeling produced by the bath is
in fact sufﬁcient proof of its beneﬁcial qualities.
It acts immediately on the skin, carries away the
scurf or little scales of the scarf—skin, and de—
taches the sebaceous secretion. By opening the
pores, it accelerates the circulation, facilitates and

 

NECESSITY 0F BATHS. 207

promotes the perspiration, and produces a sensa-
tion of soft langour and pleasing lassitude.

Among the ancients, when laws were made for
nations by sages, and the morals 0f the people
were deemed of importance to the state, the use of
the bath was strictly enjoined. Thence the puri—
fying waters, and the imrhersions and ablutions,
necessary before they were admitted to initiation
into the mysteries, or to present themselves before
the divinity. These puriﬁcations, s0 wisely mul—
tiplied in the burning climes of Egypt, Persia
and India, were intended to develop physical
beauty, and at the same time to beneﬁt the health.

Many scientiﬁc observers of the manners of
nations attribute the strength and longevity of the
majority of the ancients to this salutary custom.

The skin, indeed, has such numerous relations
with the interior Vital organs that it is certain its
state has an astonishing effect on the state of those
organs.

Hippocrates accordingly recommended baths,
daily frictions and exercise. He lived one hundred
and four years.

Galen, who lived one hundred and forty years,
and who was never ill, was indebted for his long
existence to the practice of the rules which he
gives in his treatise on the manner of preserving
health.

Asclepiades asserted that life could be prolonged

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

208 CLEANLINESS.

by art in good health, and consented to pass for a
fool if he should ever be attacked with the slightest
indisposition. He gained the wager; for he died
of a fall at the age of one hundred and ﬁfty.

Democritus, who died at one hundred and four
years of age, was asked one day how he had reached
such an age in good health: he answered through
eating honey and anointing his body with oil.

Amongst the severe laws of Lycurgus, was one
enjoining the use of the bath; and we know that
the youths and maidens of Sparta bathed daily in
the limpid streams of the river Eurotas.

Several Greek writers have left us accounts of
the public baths at Athens; These commodious
and spacious establishments were ﬁtted up in the
most splendid and luxurious style. So imperious,
however, was the necessity of bathing among the
Athenians, that, although there were public baths,
supported at the expense of government, private
individuals had them erected 111 their own houses,
and even on board their ships.

The Greeks 1epresented the Goddess of Love as
rising from the bosom of the sea: this ingenious
ﬁction, may surely prove to 11s that water is the
element that produces beauty, and that the most
attractive charms are improved and brought to
perfection in its refreshing streams.

The brutal Romans, with far less knowledge

and taste, went to still greater expense. Pliny,
6

 

NECESSITY OF BATHS. 209

Varro, and especially Vitruvius, the architect, have
furnished us With a detailed account of the magni-
ﬁcent baths built by the emperors. A very mode—
rate price admitted all classes to enjoy the delight—
ful and' beneﬁcial recreation. The baths of
private individuals, which were constructed With
much luxury, consisted of seven apartments, into
Which the bather passed in succession, to foment
0r bathe, to wash, to dry, to undergo frictions,
and to be exposed to the aromatic vapours 0f the
sweetest perfumes 0f the East. In these baths, the
Roman women passed the morning, surrounded
by numerous slaves, each of Whom had a separate
duty to perform. Some were charged With direct—
ing the streams of hot or cold water; others rub-
bed the body With a kind of felt With long hair;
others, after having removed all the moisture from
the body With ﬁne soft towels, on leaving the
bath, placed their mistress in the hands of the
female slave Whose duty it was to pass the pumice;-
stone over every roughness 0n the scarf-skin;
Whilst others, carrying perfumed essences and oil,
hastened to anoint the supple limbs of the bather,
and to bedew the tresses of her hair.

A more modern people than the Romans have
been also distinguished for the sumptuousness of
their public and private baths. The Moors of
Spain, in obedience to the voice of their wise pro—
phet, built them in all parts of their dominions.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

210 CLEANLINESS.

The celebrated Abderahman the Second ordered.
nine hundred baths to be built in the city of
Cordova alone; and the magniﬁcent remains
attest even at this day the taste and elegance that
characterised that extraordinary people.

It is certain that of all admitted practices, none
has a more decided inﬂuence both upon health and
beauty than frequent use of the bath.

Amongst modern nations, those Who take the
bath frequently, either in consequence of its con-
nexion With religion or custom, surpass all others
in physical beauty and strength. By daily bathing,
the Oriental women preserve that suppleness and
softness of skin for Which they are so remarkable,
and are free from the numerous diseases to Which
a sedentary life naturally exposes them.

Bacon, Who lays down methods of refreshing
and reinvigorating the system from time to time,
especially recommends the use of baths and friction
With oil, as practised by the ancients.

In all large towns, there ought certainly to be
public baths for the poor. If the weather permits,
females should bathe once every week in all seasons
of the year, and daily during excessive heat.

TEMPERATURE AND EFFECTS OF BATHS.

The temperature of the bath should be as nearly
as possible that of the blood.

 

TEMPERATURE AND EFFECTS OF BATHS. 2]]

At the moment of immersion in a tepid bath, a
feeling of gentle and agreeable heat is perceived
over the Whole surface of the skin, Which appears
to penetrate to the internal organs; the liquids of
the system are expanded; the skin is relaxed; the
beating of the heart and the respiratory movements
are slackened; and a state of quietude succeeds,
Which gently disposes the bather to sleep. Some
functions, however, appear to acquire activity: the
cutaneous absorption and some secretions are of
this class.

As the effects of the tepid bath are calming and
relaxing, beneﬁt is derived from it after great fa—
tigue, When all the functions are executed if not
With more force, at least With greater freedom and
ease. Persons of dry and irritable temperament,
children, and mothers, derive the most beneﬁcial
effects from its use.

Luke-warm baths are useful in clearing the skin,
as they detach from the scarf-skin the particles
Which emanate from the body, and facilitate the
egress of those Which are to succeed.

The cutaneous parts Which most require
cleansing are those Which are most exposed to
agents capable of engendering dirt, as the hands,
the feet, the face, and the parts Where we ﬁnd many
sebaceous glands.

 

 

 

 

 

 

212 CLEANLINESS.

USE OF SOAP.

A_few ounces of soap Will ﬁnish the bath more
promptly, and carry off not only any foreign
substances that may be attached to the skin, but
also the super—oxigenated and yellowish remains
of the searf—skin.

The most simple soap is the best, but no soaps
ought to be used that contain an excess of potash
0r soda: this may be discovered by their rendering
the skin wrinkled and rough. This irritation of
the skin may no doubt be taken away by abundant
ablutions of water; but it is worse than useless to
create it. The essences of soap, as they are called,
principally produce this effect. ,

Cake soap should be used in preference to liquid,
and that Which is little perfumed, in preference to
What is highly scented. Palm soap is manufac—
tured with the oil of the palm, and its scent is
natural. ,

The fruit of the esculus or Indian chesnut tree,
we are told, does not produce the same inconve-
nience as soap. The frequent use of this ﬂour,
says a French writer, is very salutary: it imparts
to the skin an admirable brilliancy; it cleans per-
fectly; and it is not subject to any of the inconve-
niences 0f soapy substances.

 

2&3

SUBSEQUENT TREATMENT.-—FRICTIONS.

The mode of drying and treating the skin upon
leaving the bath, is not unimportant, as regards
the preservation and perfection of those qualities
that an exquisite touch requires upon the different
parts.

Friction, in conjunction With bathing, is one
method of preserving and even regaining ﬁneness,
softness, and brilliancy of skin.

Those parts that, by their conformation, might
retain any moisture, should ﬁrst, however, be care-
fully dried; the face, neck and breast, should be
wiped With a very ﬁne cambric towel, and that
very carefully, for fear of altering the tissue of the
skin, and destroying, by frequent rubbing, the
soft bloom that covers it 3 the joints should also be
well rubbed.

After the ablution and attentions that the teeth,
nails, and hair require, the ﬂesh brush should be
used. This is a brush With long silky hairs sufﬁ-
ciently soft not to hurt the skin, and at the same
time sufﬁciently elastic to remove all those little
scaly pellicles Which the water has raised.

Friction ought especially to be resorted to by those
persons Who, from particular circumstances, are not
able to practise those muscular exertions indispen-
sably necessary to the preservation of health. All

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

214 CLEANLINESS.

persons whose skin is deﬁcient in action will ﬁnd
essential beneﬁt from it.

Like all actions that aﬂ'ect the skin, friction
affects also in different ways the organs at a dis—

tance from it.

PRECAUTIONS.

To the precautions already pointed out, we must
now name one) not less essential, that is, not to put
on the same linen, unless it has been worn but a
few hours. Without this precaution, the pores
being open would soon absorb the previous ema—
nations, and would return to the mass of humours
those parts of which they had been cleared.

In all these operations, it is necessary to preserve
the body from cold ; for the skin, deprived of re—
mains from the scarf—skin, and 0f the surface which
the perspiration formed, remains for some time
more liable to impressions than it was before taking
the bath.

As soon as friction is over, we should dress
quickly and take a little exercise.

ABLUTIONS.

Under particular circumstances, a private bath
cannot always be obtained: in this case, local ablu-
tions must be made to supply its place. They do

 

LIPS. 215

not produce all the good effects of a bath, but they
sufﬁce to keep the skin in order, and remove from
the scarf—skin the residue of the perspiration.

Friction should generally accompany these ablu—
tions, to cleanse the skin from foreign substances,
With Which it may be covered.

After all, we must observe that frequent ablu-
tions, and all other means employed to render the
skin soft and polished, if carried to excess, dim i-
nish the activity of perspiration and affect the
temperament.

SECTION IV.

LIPS.-‘-COLOUR OF LIPS.

On the surface of some parts, such as the lips,
the external opening of the nostrils, the outer part
of the ear, and generally speaking all places upon
the conﬁnes of the exterior and interior of the body,
the skin is more animated, of a higher colour, and
as regards cleanliness, becomes the object of many
cares equally important to the preservation of
beauty and health.

The vermilion colour of the lips is perhaps, of
all female charms, the one that depends most upon
the state of the health. It is extremely unlikely,

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

216 CLEANLINESS.

not to say impossible, that we can have fresh and
rosy lips, Without enjoying perfect health and
pure blood, Without leading a quiet and regular
life, and Without being free from bad habits, tur-
bulent passions, and Vices.

SHAPE OF LIPS, AND THEIR DEFECTS.

The shape of the lips does not depend upon our
Will: nature produces variety in all things: to some
she grants beauty, to others she denies it. Still,
it is said, we may in some respects remedy their
defects by keeping the mouth in the position most

A suited to their shape. I accordingly give the
directions on the subject.

When the lips are too thick or too pouting,
where they ought to be thin, it is better to keep
the mouth shut than a little open, and. the lips
contracted rather than in their natural position.
If the opposite defect exists, if the lips are too thin
and narrow, it Will be well not to keep the mouth
hermetically closed and the lips contracted; but
the mouth always half open, with a half smile, and
extended as much as possible.

Persons Whose lips are awry may conceal, if not
in some degree remedy, this defect, by keeping the
mouth in such a position as to raise one part to
the level of the 0ther.—Those Whose lips are
thicker on one side than the other, should compress

 

INJURIES FROM BAD HABITS. 217

the thicker side, and leave the other in its natural
state.—If one side of the mouth be longer than the _
other, a habit may be acquired of extending the
shorter side, so as to establish some degree of
symmetry: this, on account of the suppleness and
elasticity of the part may be easily attempted.

INJURIES FROM BAD HABITS.

The bad habit of biting and sucking the lips, and
of wetting them With the tongue to render them
redder, produces an immediate effect, but ﬁnally
discolours them, and makes them dull andwithered.

The still worse habit of picking the lips When
the skin becomes hard, and of pinching and rub—
bing them, not only wounds them and makes them
bleed, but puffs them, and renders them ill-Shaped,
and of a disagreeable appearance.

Too constant exercise of the muscles of the
mouth, soon causes ineff'aceable wrinkles; and the
habit of opening the mouth too Wide, either in
eating, laughing, or speaking, deforms and. injures
the lips.

A grimacing mouth, if ever so charming in shape,
soon loses its beauty and produces a disagreeable
effect; Whilst candour, and the absence of aﬁ'ecta—
tion preserve to them a kind of maiden attraction.

V The passions have a singular inﬂuence on the
shape of the lips. Anger makes them pale; indig—
nation swells them; spite compresses them; but

L

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

3218 CLEANLINESS.

goodness calms them, pleasure ﬁlls and reddens
them, and love renders them beautiful.

INJURIES FROM EXTERNAL CAUSES.

The lips are liable to be chapped by cold, Wind
and dryness. The best method to prevent this is
to rub them gently With a little unctuous pommade
whenever they are exposed to the inﬂuence of the
air.

The most simple pommade for restoring t0 the
lips that suppleness Which the action of the sun or
cold Wind has destroyed, is a cerate composed of
oil of sweet almonds and White wax, coloured With
orcanette and scented With essence of rose.

Take White Wax . . . 1 ounce,
Oil of Sweet Almonds . 2 do.
Powdered Orcanette . . 1% drachm,

Add Oilof Roses . . 6 drops.

Let it cool in little wooden boxes.

DISEASES COMMUNICATED BY LIPS.

Many diseases may be contracted by the mucous
membrane of the lips and tongue.

We should be extremely cautious; therefore,
how we salute the lips of persons of Whose
health we entertain any doubt; and carefully avoid
indiscriminately conveying to our lips such objects

6

 

NOSE. 219

as glasses, &c. Which have been used by other
individuals.

Nothing should be suffered to touch the lips
Which may irritate them, or render them unclean.
Inattention to this precaution, joined to the con—
stant irritation Which inevitably attends the inges—
tion of aliment, is perhaps the source of that
cancer of the lip, to Which the name of noli-me-
tangere has been given.

SECTION V.

NOSEc—‘CLEANLINESS 0F NOSE.

The organ of smell, the nose, is the source of
many enjoyments; and constant attention to clean—
liness can alone preserve that exquisite reﬁnement
of sensation With Which it is by nature endowed.

Under the same climate, we find that some indi-
viduals secrete more mucus from the nasal mem—
brane than others. This disgusting annoyance is
the consequence either of overloading the stomach,
of inactivity, of inattention to the secretions of the
skin, or of that dangerous and artiﬁcial excite~
ment conveyed to the nasal membrane by snuﬁ‘
and other pungent substances.

In a natural state, the quantity of nasal mucus

L z

 

 

 

 

 

 

2‘20 CLEANLINESS.

does not exceed What is necessary for the lubrica—
tion of the olfactory membrane, Which requires to
be slightly moist, in order to exercise the power
of smell; and, if the mucous secretion becomes
superabundant, it is evaporated by the air. In
persons, on the contrary, addicted to the habits
which have been pointed out, the secretion of
mucus is superabundant, and often Vitiated; and
this has led to the use of the pocket handkerchief.

The pocket handkerchief was an article totally
unknown to the ancient Greeks,——at least for the
use to Which it is at present appropriated. It is
probable that they had less occasion for it, as the
waste produced by the heat of the climate,
their exercises, and their public baths, would, in
a great measure, prevent the secretion of such
mucus. In no part, it is said, of their writings,
where they speak of cloths to Wipe the mouth or
the perspiration from the face, do they mention
any such article for the nose.

It is climate,then, as well as the habits men-
tioned above, that render the pocket handkerchief
a necessary article of dress to many persons.

Cotton handkerchiefs are sometimes used to
wipe dust or snuff from the eyes. White cambric 0r
linen should be employed, especially during cold
weather, and more particularly When the nose is
inﬂamed.

It may here be mentioned that, if a lady has to

 

EYES. 221

adopt any precautions for the nose, eyebrows,
eyelashes, ears, &c., she should commence her toilet
there.

Spectacles form, With some persons, an essential
part in the toilet 0f the nose. Persons compelled
to wear them should select tortoise-shell: the
weight of the gold and silver rims generally pro—
duces an induration at the root of the nose, Which
eventually becomes a wart that cannot be got rid of.

SECTION VI.

EYES.——CLEANLINESS OF EYES.

In the morning, on waking, the eyelids in some
persons adhere, by the waxy secretion of the night.
As the eyelashes also, in some persons, adhere,
any attempt to force the eyes open With the ﬁngers
would infallibly damage or tear out the lashes.

The eyes should be bathed in rather cool water
every morning, and before going to bed, to clear
the eyelids from the dust that mayhave accumulated
during the day. These ablutions, performed re-
gularly, strengthen their muscles, and repair the
fatigues 0f the day; The custom of washing the
inner corner of the eye ought scrupulously to be
attended to.

 

 

 

 

222 CLEANLINESS.

INJURIES TO, AND TREATMENT OF, EYES.

The smoke of the chimney, or the blaze of ﬁre,
Which the idle person looks at Without ceasing,
and Which attracts him even When occupied in
something else,—the gaudy colours With Which he
covers the walls,—the bad lamps Which, in small
rooms, give a light so intense, so different from
the mild light of wax candles, and thus keep the
eye in a state of excitement during the period
destined for its repose, are amongst the causes
Which have produced, in latter times, so many
people Who are short-sighted and Who wear spec-
tacles.

The eyes should be protected from strong lumi-
nous rays, and from every kind of effort and straining.

The custom of wearing the nightcap close down
upon the eyes, is salutary t0 the sight, especially
to very full eyes, as their orbs are sometimes af-
fected by cold during the night.

When some slight foreign substances have got
into the eye, we should be careful not to rub it, but
should look steadily on the ground for some time,
and open and close it rapidly.

For fatigue, sitting up at nights, working assi-
duously, abuse of spectacles, too little sleep,
Which tarnish the lustre of the eyes, and cause
a dark appearance around them, there is no other
remedy than rest.

 

EARS. 2'23

...__... -w ......_....A A
,.._.._.<__ . ....__.__._‘ ;

If the sight be momentarily affected by causes of
this kind, all sorts of pharmaceutic lotions are
dangerous; but, by keeping the eyes closed from
time to time, and by moistening them frequently
With spring water, the heat Which congestion may
have occasioned, is taken away, and the evapora-

i
5
I
i
I

tion of the water keeps up the freshness. This
will prevent the consequences of fatigue, and
render the eyes able to endure more exercise,
Without sustaining any injury.

SECTION VII:

EARS.—-FORM OF EARS, AND THEIR DEFECTS.

The ears, of Which, in remarking upon beauty,
people make little note, contribute more than is
generally supposed to the harmony and beauty of
the Whole. Thin, pale and ﬂat ears, ears standing
out from the head, or long and pendant ears,
disﬁgure a ﬁne ﬁgure, Without our being. able at
the moment to assign the precise reason.

If the ears are too ﬂat, we should not fasten
the strings of the bonnet over them; and at night
we may raise the back of the ear With a little
cotton.

 

 

 

 

 

224 CLEANLINESS.

Ears that stand out may, at night, be bound
down to the head with a broad ribbon. When the
bonnet is put. on, they may be pressed down
With the hand: it may even be well to do so from
time to time during the day. Ears of this de—
scription are chieﬂy remarked as a deformity When
the head is dressed.

CLEANLINESS, &c.

The peculiar conformation of the ear renders it
more liable than any other part to get dusty and
dirty; and, however'cleanly we may be in other
respects, if we neglect this part, which is almost
always Visible, we give an unfavorable opinion of
the attention paid to those parts of the body which
are concealed by clothes.

Even to preserve the sense ofhearing perfect, the
ear requires to be cleared of the wax and dust that
sometimes accumulate there, and which frequently
cause deafness when suﬁ'ered to form a mass at
the bottom of the ear. These substances are easily
extracted with a common ear—pick. The best are
of ivory or mother—of-pearl, very well polished.
Metal ear-picks should never be used.

A sort, however, of ﬁnical and superﬂuous clean-
liness, if we may so express it, in all that concerns
the ears, and too frequently removing the waxy
substance formed by the membrane of the external

 

NECK. 225 -

conduit 0f the ear, augment the secretions, and
may produce very disagreeable consequences.

1f the ears are well formed they must not, in
putting on the nightcap, be too much compressed
beneath the handkerchief or cap Which is worn, as
it might spoil their shape.

In bathing, before plunging into the water, a
small piece of cotton steeped in oil may be placed
in the ears. The same precaution should be
adopted When the ear is about to undergo Violent
and unusual action; such as being exposed to the
shock of a loud echoing sound, an explosion ef
cannon, &c.

SECTION VIII.

NECK.——INJURIOUS HABITS.

The bad custom of wearing the collars of hand-
kerchiefs, &c. too tight, if not the sole cause of
swelling of the neck, contributes much to pro—
duce it. Not only is all the beauty of the neck
destroyed by this swelling, but, if it increase, it
resembles the goitre, and creates the same disgust.

The neck swells, and the muscles show them-
selves in moments of passion; of anger, for ex-
ample. When, in thin persons, they become very

L 3

 

 

226 CLEANLINESS.

apparent, like so many tightly drawn strings, the
roundness and the beauty of the neck are lost.

If this defect be a consequence of general mea-
gerness, it Will be necessary to have recourse to
the proper regimen for acquiring plumpness. If it
arise from a habit of raising the voice too loud in
speaking (Which, or the temper that causes this,
is most frequently the case), long discourses, loud
exclamations, and singing, must be avoided. If
that be not sufﬁcient, the only way left is to con-
ceal the defect by wearing high handkerchiefs.

SECTION IX.

HANDSv—CLEANLINESS OF HANDS.

There are few parts of the toilet Which require
more care and attention than the hands ; and there
is no part perhaps Which owes more to art.

White well—shaped hands have always been much
admired. Needlework, writing, drawing and
music, afford ladies many opportunities of exhi-
biting the beauty of their arms, the whiteness of
their hands, and the shape and cleanliness of their
nails. To these points, therefore, they should be
very attentive.

 

HANDS. 227

Puriﬁed soap, slightly perfumed, is well suited
for washing the hands, especially in Winter, as it
completely carries off, Without the necessity of
much rubbing, all the impurities Which enter the
pores, and are rendered difﬁcult of removal by
the action of cold. It is particularly useful in
washing off the oiliness Which always attaches
itself more or less to the ﬁngers in combing the
hair.

The paste from the Indian Horse-chesnut, Which
was before alluded to, is prepared in the following
manner :———

Peel the chesnuts, dry them, pound them in a
covered mortar, and pass the powder through a
very ﬁne sieve. When it is wanted for use, throw
a suitable quantity of this powder into the water,
Which Will become White and as soft as milk.
Frequent use of this is very beneﬁcial to the skin,
and gives it an admirable brilliancy.

CARE OF HANDS.

The skin of the hands and arms, though of a
ﬁrmer tissue than that of some other parts of the
body, is subject to much dilatation and contraction.
It becomes numbed by cold, dryed by wind, tanned
by the sun, and swollen and expanded by heat.

It is a very useful precaution always to wear
gloves on going out, but particularly kid gloves, as

 

 

228 CLEANLINESS.

they tend to preserve the softness of the hand.
Fashion has of late years introduced the use of
cotton or cambric gloves, they in no respect fulﬁl
the object Which every female should have in View
in wearing gloves.

Silk mittens are an excellent protection for the
hands in Winter: these knitted gloves ﬁt tight at
every open extremity of the ﬁngers, and do not
interfere With any work. Kid mittens are still
more convenient and elegant, but not perhaps
better adapted to keep out the cold.

The contact of iron or steel spoils the hands; and 7
it may be remarked that those persons Who are
fond of stirring the ﬁre continually, and moving
the ﬁre-irons, generally have the skin of their
ﬁngers hard and callous. 7

When a spot of ink has stained the ﬁngers, soap
or a drop of Vinegar Will remove it; and in case of
a bruise, the part should be immediately rubbed
With spirit, to prevent the extravasated blood be—
coming ﬁxed, and producing a black mark.

AFFECTIONS OF HANDS.

Perspiration 0f the hands is very unpleasant, as
it soils any work we may be doing, and stains the
gloves. Cleanliness, and sprinkling the hands
with powdered iris 0r orris root, are the means to
counteract it.

 

HANDS. 229

Besides these, there are many accidents that
frequently destroy the beauty of the hands, as
chilblains, the little excrescences called warts, &c.

If the hands are washed in very hot or very cold
water, or exposed to the air immediately after
being washed, they are liable to become wrinkled
and chapped.

Cleanliness and attention to preserving the hands
and feet from intense cold or heat, and particularly
from sudden changes of temperature, from too
much moisture, from hard work, and from severe
compression, are the best means of preventing all
these afﬂictions.

The best way to get rid of warts quickly, and
Without pain, is to soften these excrescences by
steeping the hands, for half an hour, in warm
water, and then taking off the surface of the wart,
Which will be White and insensible, Without making
it bleed or suffer the slightest pain.

They may also be removed by touching them
frequently With caustic or ,aquafortis‘. In this
case, the part Where the wart is, must be ﬁrst
bathed in soapy water for three quarters of an
hour: this Will swell it and render it almost insen-
sible. It may then be shaved down by very
thin slices. It must lastly be cauterised With
caustic.

It is however rather dangerous to cut warts,
because the wound may produce inﬂammation;

 

 

 

 

y

930 CLEANLINESS.

and therefore this little surgical operation requires
to be performed cautiously.

It is needless to insist upon the necessity of
curing ﬂaws. It is only necessary the moment
one is observed, to cut it off With scissors, and to
attend to What follows here.

The thin membrane Which covers the bottom of
the nail frequently grows up too far, and hides the
little White semicircle Which makes a beautiful nail
so much resemble the petal of a rose. This should
be prevented by frequently pushing back the skin
from the bottom of the nail With the thumb: the
longer the nails are from the root, the more beau—
tiful they are.

If this precaution has been neglected, and, in
consequence of chilblains or any other accident,
the skin has encroached upon the nails, it must be
pushed back as often, and as much as can be borne
Without pain, or be removed With the nail-cleaner.
The skin Will yield with greater facility if the
ﬁnger be steeped in water from time to time.

TREATMENT OF NAILS.

A beautiful arm and White hand require well—
shaped and very clean nails: it is the surest index
to the degree of importance that a female attaches
to her toilet. Daily attention gives them a polish
and transparency that occasional care will not.

 

NAILS. 227

The nails should be cut frequently, very little
at a time, and always in an oval shape, as it gives
a more slender appearance to the ﬁngers.

For this purpose, there is a little instrument
called a nail—knife. This instrument is ﬂat and
sharp at one end, Which is the knife: the other
end resembles the extremity of an ear—pick, and
serves to clean the nails.

They should be cut to a level With the tips of
the ﬁngers, Which they are intended to preserve.
If left too long, they are liable to break; and, if
out too short, they Will not then protect the ﬁngers
sufﬁciently from shocks and frictions that may
injure the tips.

The nail-brush should be full, broad and soft.
This is to be rubbed upon a cake of soap, and then
made use of to brush them, and remove all the
slight inequalities that may be found.

Rough uneven nails may be scraped With a piece
of glass, and then polished by rubbing them With
a little wax.

If, through dryness, the nails become crooked
or disposed to break, some oily substance may be
applied to the surface during the night.

The White spots Which sometimes appear upon
the nails, Which we call gifts, may, it is said, (but
I believe, untruly), be removed by applying pitch
and myrrh mixed together to the outside. The
stains from walnuts, cherries, and other fruits, are

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

232 CLEANLINESS.

easily removed by Vegetable acids; such as the
juice of Citron, sorrel, &C.

A small piece of prepared sponge, steeped in a
mixture of vermilion and emery, applied every day
to polish the nails, Will give them a beautiful
colour; and, after they have been well washed, a
little oil of bitter almonds may be used to moisten
them. i

The majority of the Asiatics dye their nails red
or yellow, With annotto 0r henna. The modern
Persian and Grecian women rub them with orpin,
and thus resemble so many rosy—ﬁngered Auroras.

SECTION X.

FEET.--CARE OF FEET AND NAILS.

The feet should be washed every morning, like
the rest of the person. This salutary custom is
too much neglected. Young ladies should be
habituated to dip their feet every morning in luke—
warm water, summer and winter, or at least to
rub them With a sponge dipped in water.

This, in conformity With the attentions Which
cleanliness requires, Will keep up the beauty of
the feet, preserve them from blisters and corms,

i.
i
2

i-
g
!
g
I
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i

FEET. 233

and especially from perspiration, Which inattention
t0 cleanliness renders obnoxious.

The nails 0f the toes ought not to be rounded
like those of the ﬁngers, but cut squarely, to pre-
vent their growing into the skin.

AFFECTIONS OF FEET.

The feet are exposed to accidents, most of Which
may be prevented or cured.

The slightest perspiration 0f the feet is almost ial~
ways accompanied bya disagreeable odour; and the
greatest precautions should be taken to prevent it.
The feet should be washed With lukewarm water,
night and morning; the stockings changed every
morning; and a sole of rough cotton cloth worn in
the shoe, to absorb the perspiration. If this sole
be sprinkled With lavender, and frequently changed,
the odour from the feet Will soon decrease, and
ﬁnally subside. It is an excellent plan to sprinkle
the feet With powdered iris 0r orris root. _.

Blisters, callosities and corns deform the feet,
and are frequently very painful.

The ﬁrst are produced by an extreme delicacy of
the skin, Which, being sw elled by the heat, blisters
and becomes excoriated.

Persons subject to blisters may prevent them by
rubbing the feet every morning With a little unc—
tuous matter.

 

 

 

 

 

234 CLEANLINESS.

When the blister is formed, instead of opening
it With scissors, which would produce a wound,
the skin should be pierced With a needle and cot—
ton steeped in olive—oil. This little operatioh will
let out the water under the skin; and the oil, by
preventing the entrance of the air, Will facilitate its
healing.

The hardening of the skin, commonly called
bunnion, is a drying of the skin on the joint of
the toe. It arises from wearing shoes either too
short or too tight at the extremities.

In this case, emollient lotions should be em-
ployed to soften the skin; and, When it is inﬂamed
and very painful, fresh rose-leaves may be applied
to the part, by a cambric bandage, before going to
bed at night. If circumstances permit the use of
the same remedy during the day, the effect Will be
more speedy.

Corns, the sad result of foolishly endeavouring
to improve nature, require more care. Numerous
pretended speciﬁcs are sold to cure them; some
dangerous, and others useless.

The surest and safest method is to soften them
by emollient baths. They should then be wrapped
up in a small band of muslin, and shoes of soft
and ﬂexible materials should be worn, or, at all
events, the corn should be covered so as to permit
no pressure or friction; either of which Will pr0~
duce the same inconvenience.

 

FEET. 235

If the come are much swollen, they may be cut
frequently With a very sharp knife, taking care not
to make them bleed; for that is the _Way to
increase the growth of these disagreeable excre—
scences.

They may likewise be entirely eradicated by
rubbing them every day With a little of the caustic
solution of potash, till a soft, pliant skin is formed
in their place.

The clothes should never be so tight as to pre—
vent the free circulation of the blood: this is one
of the chief causes of chilblains.

Some persons cure them by rubbing their feet
and hands With snow before the chilblains make
their appearance. Others prefer volatile alcali,
salts, or spirituous liquids. All these means may
succeed When the chilblains commence; but, as
soon as the skin is broken, they must be discontis
nued, and aerate must be employed.

 

 

 

 

 

CHAPTER III.

TREATMENT OF THE HAIR, &c.*

SECTION I.

WE proceed to the various subjects of this section
with great conﬁdence, because, in addition to
what everybody knows 0n the subject, the best
English and foreign works have been consulted,
and we are also favoured With the advice and
assistance of one, of Whom it would be little to
say that he is the ablest coiﬂ’eur in London,—
one, indeed, Who brings to his art the aid of all the
general knowledge that bears upon it, Who has
made every branch of that art the subject of eX-
tensive and well-directed experiment, Who is pro-
foundly skilled in the production of all the eﬂects
of Which that art is capable, and Who crowns these
rare qualities by the possession and exercise of

"‘ The hair is here considered. chieﬂy in relation to cleanliness,
in conformity With the heading of the Part to which this chapter
belongs.

 

HAIR. v 237

excellent taste:—we, of course, mean Mr. N esbit,
0f VVigmore street.

HAIR.-—-CARE OF THE HAIR.

The hair, being a bad conductor of heat, forms
one of the coverings of the most important organ
in the human body. It defends the head from
cold and heat, and deadens the force of blows
Which might injure its osseous covering.

The use of the hair, and the advantage it pos—
sesses of being one of the most beautiful orna-
ments of the body, would give claim to very
particular care, even though negligence or ill—
directed attention to it did not lead to inconveni-
ence, and even to real evils.

The toilet 0f the hair should follow washing, as
the moistness 0f the linen and the motion neces-
sary in washing the forehead would derange the
hair, curls especially, and deprive them of their
solidity.

ARTICLES USED IN DRESSING THE HAIVR-

Before entering into details regarding the hair,
it Will be necessary to mention the articles Which
are used in dressing it.

 

 

238 CLEANLINESS.

1st. A Wide-toothed comb, 0f tortoiseshell or
horn, having a round back.

21y. A comb of the same kind, having the
teeth rather closer; Where two of this kind are

 

necessary.

31y. A small ivory, tortoiseshell, 0r boxvvood
tooth comb, for occasional but comparatively rare
use.

When the teeth of combs are too sharp, they
must be blunted by passing the points over paper
several times folded, or by friction on a piece of
leather With a little sand upon it. Without this
precaution, the scalp may be injured, and there is
a risk of hurting the left hand, by striking it With
the comb through the hair, especially in combing
it loose.

41y. A hard or penetrating brush, ’pretty
strong, to clean the roots of the hair after it has
been c0mbed.——The penetrating brush should be
made With elastic hairs, of somewhat irregular
length; but these ought not to be so rigid as to
fret the skin of the head and t0 inj are the roots of ,
the hair.

51y. A soft brush to smooth the hair.

Brushes should be seldom washed, and never
dried by the ﬁre; as the hair thereby loses its
elasticity, and the parts of the back of the brush
become detached. Bran rubbed in among the

 

 

 

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ARTICLES FOR DRESSING HAIR. 239

bristles and then cleaned out With another brush,
is the best method of cleaning them.

61y. A curl—comb, With a handle.—-—(Figure 1,
Plate 1.)

71y. Double hair-pins of the kind called by
the French “Epingles a la neige, ou invisibles.”
—(Figure 2, Plate I.)—These pins are almost as
ﬁne as a hair, and are intended to preserve the
curl in ringlets. For that purpose, the pin is “
taken delicately by the top, ' one stem is introduced
into the spiral curve formed by the ringlet, and
the other stem into the substance of the curl. By
this means the head of the pin rests upon the top
of the ringlet, Which it keeps in place, and. pre-
vents getting out of curl.

81y. Side-combs, to raise the curls on the
forehead and temples. They should be of very
beautiful tortoiseshell, of a colour to match the
hair. -
91y. Back—combs, of very delicate and. pliant
tortoiseshell, so that they may not prevent the
bonnet sitting close to the back of the head.

101y. Under or false combs, to raise the hair
under the combs With backs.

llly. Two cut combs, one of a moderate size,
and another large: the ﬁrst to be worn in the
day-time; the other in full dress. Both should
be of tortoiseshell, or at least an imitation
- of it.

 

 

 

240 CLEANLINESS.

To preserve the open-work combs as bright as
when they were new, they may be rubbed with a
piece of merino, and the back may be brushed
with a ﬁne hair—brush; or, if more delicate, they
may be rubbed with soft leather, and afterwards
with the hand.

IQIy. A comb of silver gilt is sometimes worn
in full dress, with the top ornamented with dia-
monds 01‘ other precious stones. 7

131y. If parsimonious nature, or the com-
mand of fashion, compel the making use of a
false’plait, it should not be too heavy, as it tears
out the hairs by its weight, and is likely to pro—
duce headach. Formerly, when the hair was worn
plaited, a large plait, with a ﬂat mounting, was in
vogue: at present, when the casque is so generally
worn, a plait with a pointed mounting is more
usua1.~—T0 keep a plait in good order, it must be
often combed gently; and, when it becomes too
dry, a very little pommade must be used; for,
otherwise, the hair could not be dressed. When
it has been used, it should be disentangled; and,
if it has been plaited, the hair should be set at
liberty. When it presents creases, a warm iron
should be passed over it, to remove them.

l4ly. Invisible tufts. Those ladies whose hair
is grey on the forehead and over the ears, but

not at the nape of the neck,—those who wish to

increase the apparent quantity of their hair,—and

 

ARTICLES FOR DRESSING HAIR. 241

those Who are desirous of putting on an elegant
head—dress in a few minutes, wear tufts termed
invisible, because they cannot be recognized from
the natural hair. The network of these tufts
should be very ﬁne, so as to occupy but little
space amongst the hair, which is cut so short as to
mix easily With the tuft. They must always be
dressed before worn; and, for this purpose, are
fastened With a pin to a cushion. But little oil or
pommade should be applied to them, unless they
are seldom or never plaited; and then, a short time
before using them. When one is taken off, it
should be put into a bOX (as should all false hair),
Where it may be completely free from dust; but
ﬁrst it should be put in papers, to keep it always
ready for use.

151y‘. Comb-tufts are attached to the temples
and forehead by means of little combs; but they
appear to me to be rather deﬁcient in solidity.
Hairdressers recommend great attention in put-
ting them on and taking them off, for fear of
breaking the combs to Which they are ﬁxed.

16ly. Curling—irons or hair—pincers. Although
the habitual use of curling—irons is very bad, yet
ladies may have them at their toilet. A feW damp
days, a gust of Wind, 01' the necessity of being
quickly curled and for some time, require occa—
sionally the use of this instrument. It should
exactly resemble that used by hairdressers; that

M

 

 

 

242 CLEANLINESS.

is, it should be eight or nine inches long, With
pincers thick and ﬂat.———(Fig. 3, Plate I.)-—-—Com—
mon curling—irons are of no use.

As the use of the articles now described depends
on the length or shortness of the hair, this is the
proper place to consider the practice of

CUTTING THE HAIR.

Cutting the hair in a proper manner appears to
augment the vitality of the bulb, slightly to excite
the skin of the head, and to make the hair grow
faster.

If, however, the hair be cut too often, or the
individual be very young, or in ill health,—-if the
climate is very hot or very cold,—and if the hair
be cut very near the bulb,——if, for example, the
head be shaved,——then the effects are otherwise
marked.

If an infant’s hair be frequently out, With the
intention, as is generally asserted, of making it
grow thicker, the exhalent power of the skin of
the head is increased unnecessarily at this period
of life, When that function is ordinarily active
enough. The consequence of this is the com-
mencement of those various affections Which are
vulgarly termed scaldhead, and Which some pa—
rents take the trouble to promote and increase by
the use of warm ﬂannel caps, under an impression

 

CUTTING THE HAIR. 243

that it Will relieve the child from imaginary bad
humours. If this exaggerated increase in the Vi-
tality 0f the head continue for a long time, it leads
to ﬁnal debility, and to the premature falling-off
0f the hair, When it does not occasion more serious
evils. The hair should be tipped, however, every
two months.

NOW, we may ask, of all the ridiculous means,
(and those certain to occasion the fall of the hair)
is not that the most so Which still more increases
the irritability of the bulb, and Which too many
medical men prescribe,——namely, repeated shaving
0f the head. It is exactly because people always
employ this method, or others analogous,——such as
stimulating lotions,—that it is extremely rare for
the individual Who in good health loses her hair
ever to recover it.

Amongst the Mooslemin and the other inhabi—
tants of warm climates, the over—excitement pro-
duced by shaving the head causes no inconveni-
ence; because the functions of the skin throughout
the body being equally active, the economy
possesses other means of exhalation. But, in very
cold and moist countries, or among individuals
badly fed, the skin of the head would have to per-
form unassisted the exhaling functions of the
Whole of the body.

If this local over—excitement be increased by
constantly wearing a woollen cap, or very warm

M 2

 

 

 

 

 

 

244 CLEANLINEss.

furs, such as are used by the inhabitants of Poland
and the Ukraine, it gives rise to what is termed
the plica, Which is not owing to uncleanliness, as
is too generally believed. If the Poles while they
thus excite the scalp, would, like the Russians,
excite the skin of the whole body by means of dry
and moist stoves, if they would cover the head less,
and above all, would refrain from shaving it, and
if the nobility were more humane towards their
serfs, and provided them with more wholesome
food, then this horrible endemic affection, as well
as other ills, would speedily cease to afﬂict that
wretched people.

In temperate climates, no inconvenience is felt
from having the hair out within an inch and a half
of the head. Occasionally, it may produce an
enlargement of the glands of the neck, sore eyes,
earach, toothach, sore-throat, and colds in the
head; but these consequences rarely occur, and
scarcely ever except during a cold and moist
winter. Adults and well clothed persons, when
the skin of the body performs its function properly,
are rarely subject to any inconvenience, except
the hair be cut short after having been worn very
long. This was observable at the time when the
long hair that the soldiers were was cut off, and a
short crop adopted.

It is equally hurtful to the health of females, as
it is contrary to their beauty to wear their hair cut

 

COMBING THE HAIR. 245

a la Brutus, Titus, or Caracalla. A luxuriant
head of hair is the most beautiful ornament a female
can possess.

COMBING THE HAIR.

Having discussed the subject of cutting the hair,‘
it may now be observed that the daily use of the
comb and brush, added, if cleanliness require it,
to ablutions With lukewarm water, or soap and
water, are the chief cosmetics Which ought to be
employed for the hair. To clean the hair, Mr.
Nesbit recommends the yolks of a couple of eggs,
beat till they form a cream, to be rubbed into the
hair, and then washed out With tepid water, well
brushed and wiped, as bestowing the most silky
and beautiful appearance.

Every morning before dressing the hair, it
must be disentangled With a coarse comb, be-
ginning ﬁrst With ’a portion at the ends of the
hair, then taking a higher part, and ﬁnally
passing it through the hair in a straight line
from the top to the bottom, to prevent breaking
the hair. If the hair be very long and very thick,
it should be divided into two or three parts, and
each combed separately.

The points of the teeth, When a comb is em-
ployed in excess, irritate the skin. Those of the
small-tooth comb are most injurious.

 

 

 

 

 

246 CLEANLINESS.

WASHING THE HAIR.

In summer, the head should occasionally be
washed all over. '

Many ladies object that their hair is too long.
But the longer the hair, the more difﬁcult it is to
keep it clean; and therefore the more necessary
that it should be perfectly cleansed. There is no-
thing in this respect better than water, for it im-
parts more brilliancy to the hair than any thing
else, provided it be well dried by the sun in
summer and by the ﬁre in Winter, and afterwards
combed.

A bason of warm Water, rendered frothy With
a little toilet soap slightly perfumed, Will answer
the purpose. It is necessary to remove carefully
the tresses 0f the hair, and With a sponge, dipped
in the soapy water, to wash it thoroughly all
over. The hair being perfectly cleansed, the
head should be well dried With napkins, slightly
warmed in Winter, and then brushed several
times. ‘

The frequency of this custom Will depend upon
the nature of the hair. Supple moist oily hair
may be washed every eight days With lukewarm
water. Light hair, Which is seldom oily, and the
ﬁneness and softness of Which obviates the use of
pommades, rarely requires washing.

 

' BRUSHING THE HAIR. 247

But a little of Mr. Nesbit’s Vegetable Extract,
consisting of honey dissolved in a very small
quantity of spirit, scented With rosemary, &c. is
an excellent substitute.

CLEANING WITH POWDER.

The preceding methods are all useful; but the
following is perhaps preferable in some cases.

When the hair is somewhat oily, before going
to bed at night, it may be spread well over the
shoulders, and powdered by means of the
Swansdown puff With the powder of Florence iris
0r orris root, or With carnation powder extremely
ﬁne. This powder being absorbent, Will act
during the night ; and the next morning it may
be brushed out With the concave brush, Which
Mr. Nesbit recommends.

As the Iris powder is of a clear yellow, it leaves
a little of that tinge on the hair; but after Comb—
ing it two or three times, the only trace that re—
mains is a pleasant scent.

BRUSHING THE HAIR.

When the hair has been well cleaned with
combs, it should be brushed With a brush, made of
very ﬁne hairs, or Which is still better of ﬁne rice
roots.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

248 CLEANLINESS.

Constant use of the brush effectually clears the
head from scurf and dust. This should be em-
ployed for about ten minutes night and morning,
to preserve its bright glossy appearance. Brush—
ing also tends to preserve the curl from the inju-
rious effects of damp and heat. The penetrating
brush briskly applied, should be succeeded by the
smoothing brush.

CROPPING THE HAIR.

Finally, to strengthen the hair, prevent its
ravelling, becoming crooked, and turning White at
the ends, it should be tipped as already directed.
Nature more than repairs this loss.

If this custom has long been neglected, and the
hair has become of different lengths, it must be at
once cut level and equal.

The hairs Will then grow equally, and Will
always be of the same length. The points Will
not split or differ in colour from the rest of the
hair, and if naturally disposed to curl, Will form
elegant and regular ringlets. Besides, the plaits
Will not then be thick at the beginning and as
thin as a rat’s tail at the end.

 

249

INJURIOUS PRACTICES AS TO HAIR.

What has been said on injurious cosmetics
renders it unnecessary to speak here of oils, pom—
mades and waters for the hair. Pommades, indeed
are, by common consent, much less employed in
the dressing room; and huile antique is never
made use of except for dressing, and in a very
small quantity.

One thing very injurious to the growth of the
hair is excessive or unnecessary twisting to raise it
up. Very ﬁne heads of hair have been thinned
and gradually fallen off, in consequence of this.
Whether it prevents the growth of the short hair,
or destroys the root of the long, by impeding the
circulation of air, it is certain that nothing thins it
so soon.

In tying up the hair, care must be taken not to
tie it too tight, nor to use W001, for fear of insensibly
injuring it. If any of the hairs be doubled or
tied in the knot of the ribbon, they Will be broken
and injured, and the head—dress Will never appear
smooth and well arranged.

The use of hot irons tends to dissipate the mois—
ture of the hair, to split the ends, and to weaken
the roots. Therefore, in the arrangement of the
head-dress, the use of curling irons, and frizzing
the hair by jerking it With the comb, must be care—

M 3

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

250 CLEANLINESS.

fully avoided. The ﬁrst of these customs dries the
hair; and the second twists it, crisps it, and
destroys its brilliancy.

TRESSES AND CURLS.

No fashion is better than that of wearing the
hair in plaits or tresses, provided these are not too
tight. The hair being naturally elastic, the slight
tension Which it thus undergoes every morning,
helps to increase its length, Whilst the air easily
penetrating the tresses, preserves the suppleness
and brilliancy 0f the hair.

The natural curl of the hair arises from the
turn it takes in passing through the true skin.

The artiﬁcial curl is caused either by long pres-
sure, or by the application of heat.

PAPILLOTES.

Papillotes are not very injurious to the hair.

T0 employ them, we must arrange the ringlets
so that they will curl With ease and for a long time;
and, for that purpose, the hair may be cut and put
in papers.

About three inches from the forehead, part the
hair from one ear to the other. Pursue a straight
line, and throw, either behind the head or over the
face, all the hair on each side of this transverse line.

 

PAPILLOTES. 251

From the middle of this line, draw another
longitudinally, to the middle of the forehead.
Some draw this line a little on one side; but it is
not elegant, appears like an attempt at effect, and
has always a coquetish appearance.

The hair, being thus parted, is then cut in front.
But as the hair is shortened by curling, it must be
left sufﬁciently long, When uncurled, to reach the
middle of the cheek; it being understood, of course,
that this is an approximative length; for the hair
that falls from the middle of the forehead and that
by the ears do not exactly reach it.

Besides all the hair is not exactly 0f the same
length: When the curls in front are in two rows,
the upper row by the parting, requires the hair a
little shorter, to prevent the curls being confounded
With those of the lower row; but the difference is
scarcely perceptible; it refers chieﬂy to the manner
of putting the hair in paper and curling.

We must not cut the hair in front, exactly as we
are in the habit of cropping it behind. We must
point it, that is, take a tress between the thumb
and fore-ﬁnger 0f the left hand, and, holding the
scissors a little inclined in the right hand, out it
obliquely, as it were, hair by hair. By this means,
the end of each curl becomes smaller; Whereas, if
we were to cut the hair square, the end would be
thick and heavy, and prevent the curls keeping in.

When the hair in front, on the right and left of

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

252 CLEANLINESS.

the frontal parting, has been thus cut, it may be
put in paper.

For this purpose, cut some thin paper of a good
texture into little pieces, in the shape of the corner
of a handkerchief; take a tress of hair the nearest
to the frontal, and transverse partings; separate
it; smooth it well; pass it through the ﬁngers;
and then adopt either of the following methods:—

Either roll it up to the root in circles one over
the other; keep it in position With the left hand,
Whilst the right takes up a curl paper; place the
transverse section under the curl, the paper
touching the root of the hair; fold the two corners
down upon. the curl; and then twist the end
tight. »

Or, place the points of the hair to be curled 0n
the middle corner of the paper; roll both up toge—
ther t0 the roots of the hair; and twist the other
corners tight upon the curl.

The ﬁrst of these methods forms round and
ﬂat curls; the second, drop curls. It should be
observed, that a relier 0f kidskin is preferable to
paper, as making the curls less hard.

A curl paper, to be well placed, ought not to
come off Without untwisting the extremity.

This curl being ﬁnished, We proceed to the
second tress, parting the hair carefully, so that the
second may contain as nearly as possible the same

quantity as the ﬁrst.
6

 

PAPILLO'I‘ES. 253

It is also essential, in placing the curl papers of
the upper row, When there are more rows than one,
to separate them carefully from the hair destined
to form the second. The shortening of the curls
of the ﬁrst row, depending more upon the curling
than the difference of length, it is necessary to
tighten the circles of the upper curls and roll them
up to the roots, Which we need not quite do With
the second.

The curl papers being all put on, we now come
to the tress of hair close by the ear. It is now
generally made a little curl of, and put in paper.

The curl papers are generally put on at night, on
going to bed. Nevertheless, When the hair is re—
quired to be carefully dressed for the evening, they
may be put on sometimebefore,—unless this trouble
is avoided by wearing a false front.

If the hair is subject to folding (sometimes the
consequence of bad curling), that is to say, if any
of the braids rise up disagreeably, the curl papers
may be bound down on the forehead With a
broad ribbon, Which Will serve as a bandage. It
is evident that, in this case, the curl paper ought
to be very ﬁne, for fear of hurting the head.
Blotting paper, or any kind of paper not sized, is
most generally used; but there is a peculiar paper
manufactured on purpose.

After all, putting the hair in paper, is certainly
in some slight degree injurious to its growth by

 

 

 

254 CLEANLINESS.

the irritation it must cause. Nothing also is
so unbecoming as the head of a young girl
bristling With curl papers. The majority of those
whom nature has gifted With a ﬁne, silky, supple
head of hair, are thus condemned, especiallyon ball
days, to wear this ridiculous aureola during a great
portion of the day. When these papers are of the
same colour as the hair, the effect is somewhat less
disagreeable. Besides, curl papers of all descrip-
tions leave for some time marks on the forehead.

 

 

CURLING BY HAIRPINS.

 

There is a more convenient, though, perhaps,
more difﬁcult method, Which, to the advantage
of not hurting the forehead by the pressure of the
nightcap, and not injuring the hair by depriving
it of air, adds that of curling the hair better than
warm irons; namely black hair pins of the half-
length (No. L of the hair—dressers), Which are now
generally used, and by means of Which the round
and ﬂat curls at least may be formed.

For this purpose, the hair is taken up by the
ﬁnger in tresses, and rolled tight round it; When
the curl has reached the head, half a turn is given it
over the roots; and then is introduced the pin, the
point of Which, passing through the opening of
the curl, takes up the Whole of the base and ﬁxes
it ﬁrmly.

 

 

FALSE FRONTS. 255

When the curls are small and close to the head,
and the hairpin does not much exceed the curl, this
head—dress is very neat. It is particularly suitable
in moist weather.

Many persons are in the habit of dissolving a
little gum-arabic in a few drops of water, wetting
their ﬁngers With it, and then moistening their
curls. As soon as the curl has been thus anointed,
it should be combed gently, and then drawn
through the dry ﬁngers, to prevent its preserving
a disagreeable stiffness. When it is about half
dry, 3. little pommade may be used, to prevent the
hair appearing tarnished. An extract from a kind
of moss, now much used, is preferable to gum;
water.

FALSE FRONTS.

All this requires attention; and therefore those
Who are much occupied, and Whose hair Will not at
any time remain in curl, are sometimes compelled
to weara false front. It is needless to say, that it
ought to match the hair exactly. Those made by
Nesbit may not only be worn at home under a cap
or berret, or under a bonnet during a morning call,
but Without a cap and in full dress, being so eX-
quisitely adapted as to be altogether above
detection.

When not used, the curls 0f the false hair are

 

 

 

 

'256 CLEANLINESS.

turned, and kept in place, by a very short hairpin,
placed transversely in the middle, and acquire pre—
cisely the turning of natural curls.

This custom may be practised at all seasons of
the year, on going to a ball; as no lady can then
be quite sure that her natural curls Will remain in
good order.

Some ladies wear their hair in paper under their
false hair. It is sufﬁcient to mention this custom
to condemn it: the curl papers, in fact, are Visible
through the hair, create a disagreeable distance
between the front and the forehead, and justify the
supposition that the wearer is a slattern in the
morning, and a coquette at night.

TREATMENT OF THE HAIR AT NIGHT.

At night, the head—dress must be undone very
carefully: all the hair pins that are in it must be
ﬁrst taken out, and the tresses shaken as they are
unfastened. These precautions are particularly
necessary When the hair has been dressed by most
perruquiers. The tresses being unfastened, the
hair is then. disentangled and carefully disposed of,
and if each tress be combed separately, beginning
always With the ends, not a hair need be broken.

No lady should ever, under any circumstances,
lie down With the hair entangled. Nothing injures
it more than such neglect: besides, it would be a

 

COLOUR OF THE HAIR. 257

great want of cleanliness 5 for the hair pushing back
the night—cap, would escape from beneath it, and,
falling in an entangled mass, would soil the pillow,
and also produce an unpleasant feeling in the head.
In a regular mode of life, certainly, no young
ladies neglect themselves to this extent; but, during
the season of balls and assemblies, When they
return home late, wearied and jaded, they perhaps
let down their head-dress, hasten to repose, and
thus expose themselves to all those accidents Which
have been described as so seriously injurious to the
hair.

On leaving a ball-room or any other place
Where the hair may have become dusty, after being
disentangled, the hair must be wiped With a very
dry napkin.

If any lady is in the laudable habit of attending
to the household affairs, she must cover the hair
When she is so engaged, as smoke tarnishes the
colour.

In cold damp weather, the hair should occa—
sionally be rubbed With a warm cloth: it should
also be rubbed With a dry cloth When wet With
perspiration.

COLOUR OF THE HAIR.

If the hair be of a dull black colour, and has the
appearance of being dirty, it may be smoothed

 

 

 

 

 

258 CLEANLINESS.

With the hand, and moistened With oil, and head-
dresses should be selected that contrast strongly
with the darkness of its colour.

The hair sometimes turns partially grey before
that age at Which such a change may naturally be
expected. This is a calamity particularly disa-
greeable to females, because it makes them appear
older than they really are; but no one, save quacks,
impostors and Charlatans, professes to have found
any means of obviating it.

FALLING OFF OF THE HAIR.

Some consume their time in vain and futile
efforts to arrest the rapid loss of their hair, and to
bring back to their denuded heads that ornament
Which has left them never to return.

This inﬂiction is generally the result of long
illness, in Which persons have suffered their hair
to remain entangled for along time and to become
matted from want of combing.

Where the malady, however, is not dangerous,
the hair should be occasionally disentangled; and
for this purpose the invalid may place herself in an
easy position, Without leaving the bed. After
being combed, the head may be gently rubbed With
warm cloths, and the head—dress immediately
replaced. By this means, the invalid would
avoid an insupportable itching, the acute suffering

 

FALLING OFF OF HAIR. 259

to be endured on separating the entangled hair,
and ﬁnally the total or partial loss of this precious
ornament.

At the commencement of summer, as intense
heat is very injurious to the hair, increased atten-
tion and cleanliness are required; the hair must be
occasionally washed With soap and water, or
brushed With some simple vegetable extract,*
and sometimes cut.

If, in spite of all these precautions, the hair
continues to fall off in large quantities, the common
doctrine is that a sacriﬁce must be made, and that
long and beautiful tresses 0f the hair must either
be cut short or shaved off, in order to avoid a head
of hair, of unequal length, thin and ravelled.

By shaving the head, they expect, at the end of
a few years, to possess a magniﬁcent head of hair,
thicker and more beautiful than before; especially
as, after the ﬁrst month, a very thick down is seen
to be growing on the head. During the ﬁrst year
that the hair is growing, unless a cap is always
worn, awig is recommended as an excellent means
of promoting its growth, because the air dries it,
and injures its strength. The hair, it is said, grows
rapidly till it is about half a foot in length, but after
that it grows but slowly; and it is added that this
is of no moment, as there is enough to throw aside

* The term is applied to solutions of honey in very small
quantities of spirit, &0. 850.

 

 

 

 

260 CLEANLINESS.

the perruque, and dress the hair, Which should be
plaited as soon as possible, and cropped frequently.

But this is not altogether true. After an
illness, the hair shoots forth, and anything that we
can apply to the head, cannot but be prejudicial to
its restoration. Shaving, in this case, instead of
being serviceable, often imparts t0 the bulb a
passing premature excitement, When it is not
accompanied With the before-mentioned incon—
venience.

If the hair falls Without illness being the cause,
shaving often inereases the intensity of the cause
Which determines its decay, and Which is sus—
pended only for a moment, to become afterwards
more certain and decisive.

BALDNESS.

When the hair falls off all at once, and new hair
does not gradually reappear upon the places ﬁrst
made bare, the roots have perished; nothing can
reproduce them; and the individual remains en—
tirely bald. This total loss of the hair is much
less common amongst women than men: never-
theless, in both sexes, acute diseases, late hours,
and an irregular life Will produce this unpleasant
condition. When this is once decided, it is useless
to 100k for remedies: a Wig well made and suitable
to the complexion is the only palliative.

 

. BALDNESS. 261

A Wig ought not to ﬁt too tightly; for the resis-
tance of the bones of the head, affording a point
of solid support to the vessels Which ramify on its
surface, a very tight Wig would compress the ves—
sels, impede the circulation, and give rise to se-
rious accidents.

These evils are remedied in the present day by
the use of elastic Wigs, Which press only on one
point of the head, and are substituted for the cir—
cular band, Which was tightened behind the head,
by means of a buckle.

When only a small part of the head is bald, an
artiﬁcial scalp is worn instead of a Wig. The use
of this portion, Which consists of some locks of
hair fastened upon open network, is frequently
sufﬁcient to exempt individuals from the painful
sensation of cold, Which some experience.

The scalp ought to be ﬁxed by means of two or
three small springs, Which are inserted in the
locks of the natural hair. In those made by
Nesbit, the springs are of silver, of extreme tenuity
and lightnessﬁl<

* The hair, regarded as dress or ornament, is treated of, in Part
III., at considerable length.

 

 

 

 

262 v. CLEANLINESS.

SECTION II.
EYEBROWS AND EYELASHES.—EYEBROWS.

If the eyebrows are not sufﬁciently arched, they
may be a little raised by turning the hairs upwards
to the forehead, especially When a little pommade
has been put upon them.

One of the greatest defects of this arch is that
in some persons it becomes covered With scurf,
Which makes the hairs fall of. In that case, the
eyebrows must be well washed With sponge and

I water; or they may be rubbed With a cake of toilet
soap moistened in water, and When they are wiped,
the ﬁnger may be passed over them slightly mois-

L tened With scented oil.

EYELASHES.

We are told that the women of Tchercassia
increase the beauty of the ﬁne silken eyelashes of
their children, When quite young, by frequently
cutting off the ends.

It is necessary to avoid rubbing the eyes, for
nothing breaks the eyelashes so much, or makes
them fall off more quickly.

 

263

SECTION III.

SUPERFLUOUS HAIRS—PLACES AFFECTED
' BY THEM.

Among women, superﬂuous hair generally ap-
pears on the arms, upper lip, and chin. French
women are very generally remarkable in these re-
spects; and not less so for a corresponding rough—
ness of voice.

Sometimes, indeed, it grows down upon the
middle of the forehead, like a tuft; sometimes down
by the ears, like whiskers in men; and sometimes .
it grows down the nape of the neck, so as to form
a kind of cape. Except in France, these deformi—
ties have a disagreeable and ridiculous effect. It
may also be seen between the eyebrows, and on
the breast.

MODES 0F REMOVAL.

It is by no means an unreasonable desire to
remove the down and hair Which grow on places
Where it is contrary to nature that they should
make their appearance.

Cutting the hair, renders it stronger and thicker;
and therefore ladies Whom nature has afﬂicted with

 

 

 

 

264 CLEANLINESS.

a beard, must beware of shaving it, as the remedy
would be worse than the disease.

Friction With a scarlet ribbon has been recom—
mended for destroying the hair and preventing its
reappearance. The colour of the ribbon has no-
thing to do With the matter; blue, black, or any
other colour would act just as well as scarlet. The
material, however, of the ribbon or stuff is a diffe-
rent thing. There is no doubt that a woollen
ribbon or band, applied to the parts Where the su-
perﬂuous hair grows, would eventually wear it
down, and prevent it growing to any length, or at
all exceeding the scarfskin. ,

At night, this band must be worn so as not to
come in contact With the rest of the hair, upon
Which it would also act. This being guarded
against, the ﬁllet produces no inconvenience; but
the result must be very tardy. N either can it be
applied to the face, because the wool ought to be
constantly in contact, and it is impossible to
keep the face continually envelopedﬁl<

* “ This method,” says a French female writer, addressing her
countrywomen (who may stand in need of such counsel) “would
have some effect on hairy legs! by wearing very tight woollen
stockings underneath others, though then the hair would not be
equally removed, because the friction produced by walking would
only be felt at the joints and the parts adjoining, while, in other
places, it would be scarcely felt, and consequently some places
would be bare, some half bare, and others covered with hair !”

 

265

DEPILATORIES.

The use of depilatories to remove superﬂuous
hairs from the face, neck, arms and other parts,
was very generally practised amongst the ancients.

Rusma, by Which, in modern times, this is ef-
fected, is simply a mixture of orpiment or sulphuret
of arsenic, and quicklime : sometimes one ounce of
orpiment to eight ounces of quicklime; sometimes
two ounces of orpiment, to twelve of lime; at other
times three ounces of orpiment, to ﬁfteen of lime.
The activity of the mixture is in proportion to the
Quantity of orpiment. '

In the Dictionary of Medical Sciences, under
the head of Depilation by Cadet de Gassicour,
the following [receipt is given: Mix two ounces of
quicklime, With half an ounce of orpiment; boil it
in a pound of strong alkaline ley; try it by dipping
in a feather, and as soon as the down falls off; the
rusma is properly prepared; then' rub the parts
from Which you Wish to remove the hair; and wash
them afterwards in warm water. This depilatory
is extremely caustic, and frequently injures the
texture of the skin, Whilst it destroys the hair: it
should in consequence be employed With the
greatest caution.

To lessen the power of this composition, some
mix lime and orpiment, and moisten it With
lukewarm water, at the time of using.

N

 

 

 

266 CLEANLINESS.

For the same purpose, they sometimes add an
eighth of starch 0r meal of rye or amel corn; make
a paste With a little warm water; apply it to the
hairy parts; let it remain there for some minutes;
taking care to moisten it, to prevent its drying too
quickly. They then try whether the hair comes
oﬁ“ easily and Without resistance : ordinarily it has
the appearance of being burnt, and then the ope—
ration is performed.

Manypersons add soft fat, and make a pommade,
which they colour and scent afterwards as they
choose. In the Turkish Harems, it is used in this
way. '

The following is another method:—Take eight
ounces of lime and one mince of .orpiment, two de-
grees of strength. Pound them into a ﬁne
powder. (In doing this, a handkerchief should be
laid over the nose and mouth, that me particle of the
powder may be inhaled.) Having made the powder,
put it awayin a bottle, and cork it well down. When
it is required to be used, mix a portion of it With
a sixth or seventh part of barley-meal, and then
make it into paste. Apply this, in the wet state,
over the hairs, and be particular to avoid letting it
remain too long. V

The Parisian epilatory cream is a modiﬁcation of
these.

A few pinches of this composition are put into
at little vessel, such as an egg—cup, a spoon (if it be

 

DEPILATORIES. 267

of wood), or even a small saucer, and diluted With
a few drops of lukewarm water to the consistence
of a jelly; they then apply it to those parts from
Which they Wish to remove the hair; leave it on
ﬁve or eight minutes 3 moisten it With a little warm
water; take it gently off; While moist, With the point
of a knife; afterwards wash the part With a spohge
dipped in warm water; and dry it gently, being
careful not to rub the part. I

The applications should never take place more
than once in twenty—four hours.

A lady says, “I have used this composition to
remove hairs from the forehead: it removes them
quickly, though they grow again at the end of ten
days. I would not advise the application of it
more than three times at slwrt intervals, because
then a smarting sensation of the skin is felt, and it
becomes a little chafed. This caustic takes off the
hair like a razor, and does not produce anyinjurious
effect upon the skin, unless too frequently applied.”

Before applying the depilatories, it is advisable
to cut the hair, Which is to be removed, that the
caustic may produce more effect.

To all this, it must be added, that if the rusma
employed be too strong, or in too great a quantity,
or allowed to remain too long on the skin, it may
give rise to inconveniences and even danger. It
may alter the skin, or act by absorption like all
preparations of arsenic.

N 2

 

 

 

 

268 CLEANLINESS.

If the ancients were free from the bad effects of
rusma, probably it was because they employed it
only after the stove or hot bath had put the skin
into a state of perspiration, a function opposed to
absorption, and because they entirely removed the
paste With a strigil, kept up the perspiration, and
washed the parts afterwards. Even in spite of all
these precautions, Galen, Who gives many receipts
for depilatories, regards them as dangerous.

Before the application of any depilatory, some
oily 0r greasy unguent should be smeared on the
parts, and perspiration excited by a warm bath or
stove. The operation being over, the rusma and
the ointment may be carefully removed With a
linen rag and warm water.

Fair persons Will ﬁnd more advantage in the use
of depilatories than dark, for the rusma does not
remove the slight dark shade Which remains in the
latter even after the hair has been taken off.

 

PART III.

DRESS.

CHAPTER I.

CLOTHING IN GENERAL.

SECTION I.

MATERIALS.—-‘GENERAL INFLUENCE OF
VARIOUS MATERIALS.

CLOTHING is intended to act as a barrier between
the natural temperature of the body, and the ex-
ternal temperature of the atmosphere,—a barrier,
which ought to be more or less impervious,
according as the changes or excesses of external
temperature are more or less likely to injure the
organs.

The properties of the various substances used
as clothing, arise from their being good or bad con—
ductors of caloric (or the cause of heat) and elec—

 

>7»; '

 

 

 

 

270 DRESS.

tricity, from the quantity of moisture which they
imbibe, either from the external air or from (the
emanations of the body, and from the facility ivith
which they allow it to escape.

It is evident, that that substance Which is a bad
conductor of caloric, Will be the warmest, because
it neither allows 0f the escape of the calorie from
the body, nor permits any caloric to penetrate it,
and it consequently leaves the internal heat, to
concentrate on the surface of the skin.

Woollen clothing is of this description: it pre~
vents the internal heatfrom passing off to the colder
air; and for the same reason, if the external tem-
perature is higher than that of the body, it is the
best preservative from heat; because it presents
greater obstacles to the admission of external calo—
ric. Thus a woollen cap is a much better preser-
vative against the rays of the sun than a linen cap,
or than a casque 0f blackened iron of equal thick—
ness.

This last example proves, that bodies Which are
good conductors of caloric, are generally the cold-
est, because they absorb the caloric from the body,

' and let it also escape freely; but, as at the same
time they are the most easily penetrated by exter-
nal heat, and transmit With equal facility the same
to our body, they are also least adapted to defend
us from the intense rays of the sun.

A practical illustration of these remarks we see

 

INFLUENCE OF MATERIALS. 271

amongst the Spanish, Who, When exposed to the
most penetrating rays of the sun, fold their large
mantles over their shoulders; and amongst the
Orientals, Who rarely throw aside their immense
woollen coverings, because, from experience, they
have found them to be the best defence against the
burning heat of the climate.

The experiments of Count Rumford has proved,
that stuffs in Which the wool is lax and porous, are
worse conductors of heat than similar stuffs of a
more close tissue, although there is the same quan-
tity of substance in one as the other.

Thus cotton or wool, carded and enolosedbetween
two pieces of silk stuff, Will preserve much more
heat on the body, than a close tissue of the same
weight, composed of the same materials; and a
woollen vest, loosely knit, Will be much warmer
than one containing the same quantity of wool of
a ﬁner and closer tissue. '

The materials of clothing are also found to be
warmer or colder to the body, in proportion to the
readiness With Which they imbibe or emit moisture.
For example, linen tissues Which rapidly imbibe
moisture from the body, and disengage it quickly, '
Will produce a greater sensation of cold than wool,
Which imbibes and emits more slowly. The latter
material also may contain a great quantity of mois-
ture Without being felt on the surface of the body.

By knowledge of the properties now examined,

 

 

 

 

 

272 DRESS.

we must select the materials for clothing best
adapted for our use, according to climate, season,
sex, age and temperament.

LINEN.

Tissues fabricated With hemp and ﬂax are good
conductors of calorie, and consequently very cool.

These materials easily imbibe moisture, and con-
dense a great quantity of it on the surface of the
body. They cool the skin 5 ﬁrst because they allow
a free escape of its moisture, which, to reduce itself
to vapour, takes up the caloric 0f the body; and
secondly because, being moist, they become much
better conductors of caloric than When dry.

Linen clothes, therefore, next to the skin, most
readily favour the production of affections resulting
from the impression of moist cold upon the skin.

Persons predisposed to maladies 0f the skin, ac-
companied With heat and irritation, should wear
linen, as it is a good conductor of caloric, cooling
and incapable from its nature of increasing the
heat and irritation Which they Wish to allay.

In cases Where it is desirable to render the skin
the seat of slight and extended counter irritation,
the effect of linen clothing Will be the reverse.

 

COTTON.

Cotton is not so good a conductor of caloric as
hemp 0r ﬂax, it allows less egress for the escape
of heat from the surface of the body, and absorbs
and retains a portion of the perspiration, and con-
sequently leaves less of it to cool upon the surface
of the skin, than the substances before mentioned.

The idea that cotton is not so healthy as ﬂax or
hemp, arises from the fact that, being a worse con-
ductor of heat, more rough, and consequently more
irritating than the other substances, cotton, in slight
excoriations of the skin, or of the extremities of
the mucous membranes, maintains more heat and
irritation, and is less adapted to the cure of these
affections than cloth of hemp and ﬂax would be.

W001, more ﬂocculent still, and warmer, would
be yet more noxious, and indeed, in this case, any
other material than hemp and ﬂax well washed,very
ﬁne and well worn, cannot fail to be injurious.

Linen is cooler in summer than cotton, but as it
allows the perspiration to cool upon the body, it
presents an evil to Which cotton is subject only
in a very slight degree.

N3

 

 

 

 

 

274 DRESS.

WOOLLEN CLOTH.

W001, as a bad conductor of heat, possesses, in
a very high degree, the property of preventing the
escape ofcaloric from the body; but it also produces,
by its roughness, much irritation, and consequently
a sensation of Which, for some days, renders its
use disagreeable.

It increases cutaneous exhalation, but absorbs
this secretion totally, preserves it as it were latent:
and never allows it to cool on the skin.

Flannel worn next the skin, is one of the most
valuable agents Which exist in medicine; but it is
at the same time the source of the greater part of
human inﬁrmities, at least of all those in the cure
of Which it is principally efﬁcacious.

Young people should be gradually trained to sup"
port the variations of the atmosphere, especially
cold: hardiness is the most efﬁcacious preservative
from maladies daily arising from the sudden changes
oftheweather. Wearing ﬂannel constantlyin good
health, only tends to render man more susceptible ;
and all individuals Who, When young, have unfortu—
nately contracted this custom, Will ﬁnd themselves,
in advanced age, affected, on the slightest change of
Weather, With rheumatism, catarrhs and athousand
other evils.

 

WOOLLEN. 275

But this is the least evil arising from this habit.
There exists another much greater: it is that of de-
priving ourselves of an invaluable resource which
we may want, or rather Which we are sure to want,
more than once during our lives.

Most young people at the present day, some
without knowing Why, others perhaps to avoid the
chilling sensation which they experience in
changing their linen, but all Without real occasion,
take to wearing ﬂannel next to the skin; and are
not aware that, by this absurd custom, they not
only render themselves liable to many diseases, but
also deprive themselves of having recourse after—
wards to the only means by which they can hope
to cure these.

The singular effect of the custom of wearing ﬂan».
nel next the skin, is to render the good which we
enjoy null, and that which we can no longer enjoy
necessary. Indeed, at the end of some days, the use
of ﬂannel has de‘adened the sensibility of the skin
in regard to the unusual impression of heat and
irritation; but the skin becomes, for this reason,
even more sensible to the impression of cold air,
and particularly of cold moist air. The least cause
produces a catarrh; and this is the ﬁrst conse-
quence of the unnecessary use of ﬂannel.

But this affection, which, in an individual not
habituated to ﬂannel, would have been cured in a
short time by the application of that substance;

__..___ , 7 7 .c

 

 

 

 

276 DRESS.

cannot be eradicated. Thus we ﬁnd the habitual
use of ﬂannel retarding recovery, because it de—
prives the medical man of One of the means of treat-
ment; and thus it becomes at once the cause of
an evil, as well as one of the most serious obstacles
to its removal.

From this, it is evident that to create a habit:
Which renders us more accessible to the inﬂuence
of those causes Which produce disease, Which can-
not be discontinued Without danger, and Which de—
prives us of resources Which itself had rendered
necessary, cannot but be very injurious to health.

Illness, or very advanced age alone, is any apo-
logy for the continued wearingof ﬂannel. In affec—
tions of the chest, and in rheumatism, ﬂannel is
advantageous, and indeed indispensable. When—
ever a patient Who has not worn ﬂannel'consults a
physician for recent rheumatism, the physician, in
prescribing its use, is almost certain of removing
the disease. If the patient has already been in the
habit of wearing it, it becomes extremely difﬁcult
to free him from the affection ofwhichhe complains.

The choice of the ﬂannel to be worn next the
skin, is not an indifferent matter. If a slight ex—
citement of the skin is required, a ﬁne smooth ﬂan-
nel is best; but if it is necessary to stimulate the
skin in a greater degree, coarser and rougher ﬂan—
nel is preferable. —- But too much care cannot be
taken, not to abuse so precious an agent.

 

WOOLLEN. 277

If the custom of wearing ﬂannel next the skin
could be tolerated in good health, it would be
among lymphatic persons, who are obliged to stay
in cold and moist countries to which they have
not been accustomed, and mariners who are pass—
ing continually from one temperature to another,
and are exposed to the greatest extremes of atmos-
pheric vicissitude.

It is generally advanced, and with a great deal
of reason, that when once the habit of wearing
ﬂannel next the skin has been adopted, it is dan—
gerous to throw it off. This assertion is correct:
we must bear the yoke we have foolishly imposed
upon ourselves.

But a person who wears ﬂannel temporarily to
cure a cold or rheumatism, when the affection is
once removed, may leave of]? wearing it for the
same reason that he would cease taking medi—
cine: indeed if he do not, he will place himself in
the situation of the individual who has worn ﬂan-
nel without necessity, and must undergo all the
consequent evils which have been already enume-
rated.

Flannel must be very frequently changed, be-
cause it is easily impregnated with humidity and
retains the animal emanations.

 

 

 

 

 

278 DRESS.

SILK.

Silk, abad conductor ofcaloric, is, independent-
ly of its beauty, very useful in enabling us to ob—
tain warm thick clothing Without materially aug—
menting the weight. For this purpose, the silk is
stuffed With wedding, that is a certain quantity of
carded cotton is placed between two pieces of silk.

Garments made from animal substances require
to be washed With much more care than others,
because they retain more thoroughly the injurious
qualities of the perspiratory and atmospheric ﬂuids.

FURS.

Furs and skins are still warmer than ﬂannel;
and the same remarks Will apply to them as to
ﬂannels. They may be made use of in the cases
above stated.

The growing youth and also the adult, in good
health, should habituate themselves to light cloth—
ing, Which, With the assistance of fresh air and
exercise, Will soon familiarise the body to the vicis—
situdes of the seasons.

Old age, When the sources of animal heat be-
come less active, is the season for warm clothing,
to prevent the dispersion of animal heat; but un-
fortunately a number of prejudices 0r vain reason—
ings induce the old man to wrap himself up in

 

CHANGE OF CLOTHES. 279‘

warm furs, even When he feels not the necessity
for them. If, While he enjoys perfect health, he
covers himself, without necessity, With all the pro—
ductions of Siberia, What further resource is left to
him to oppose those maladies the treatment of
Which requires warmth.

CHANGING OF CLOTHES IN RELATION TO
WEATHER.

Changing of garments produces the same effect
as atmospheric changes, excepting always the di-
rect action of the latter 0n the lungs, an action,
however, Which does not affect the person Whose
lungs are sound.

If we throw off ﬂannel in summer time, after
wearing it during Winter, and becoming accus—
tomed to it, the same effect is produced as by a
change from warm to cold weather; and it is liable.
to produce rheumatism, diseases of the chest,
&c. in an individual subject to these affections.

Persons even in good health, Who wear ﬂannel
for warmth in Winter, should observe, that a greater
quantity of ﬂannel outside the linen is preferable
to a smaller quantity next to the skin; for When the
hot weather comes in, it becomes a substitute for
the quantity ofclothes used during cold weather, but
does not take the place of the local irritation pro—
duced by ﬂannel 0n the skin.

 

 

 

 

 

 

280 DRESS.

It is only to this imperfect succession of an irri-
tating action to which we have become accustom—
ed, that the danger Which is attached to the leav—
ing off ﬂannel, is to be attributed; for we do not
experience the same danger in changing Winter gar-
ments for summer clothes, or in simply diminish—
ing the quantity of our clothes.

Females in general, and particularly those Whose
constitutions are weakened by habits of luxury,
should be very careful With respect to their atmos-
pherical relations, and should arrange the quantity
and quality of their garments in accordance with it:
but this important article of regimen is generally
regulated more by the caprices of fashion, than
the changes and necessities of the season.

Enormous folds of drapery, so as to conceal the
shape entirely, are not necessary for the preserva-
tion of health, even in the most severe weather.
The warmth to be derived from clothing depends
upon the material of Which it is composed.

The substances Which, for this reason, should
be preferred, are eider-down and all kinds of down,
hare’s skin, all lanuginous furs, raw or slightly
worked silk, cotton, wool, in fact, all substances
that contain much air in their numerous pores,
and Which, derive from this circumstance, the
property of being bad conductors of caloric.

The substances, on t161e contrary, Which allow

 

CHANGE OF CLOTHES. 281

caloric to pass freely, are silk and cotton, Which
have been changed from their original condition
by dying or other preparations, all dry and brittle
tissues, the ﬁlamentous barks in general, and es-
pecially those of ﬂax, out of Which human industry
is able to form those admirable net—works, rich
laces, and cambrics, which may be literally called,
like the gauze 0f Cos, tissues of air. _

A11 substances, therefore, that are usedforclothes,
may be divided into two large ~classes ; namely those
Which retain calorie, and those Which allow caloric
to pass easily.

In concluding the part relating to the skin, it
ought to be mentioned, that the agents proper to
oppose the transmission of principles simply con-
tagious, of principles capable of penetrating only
by the skin, are the means Which are opposed to
absorption, such as oil, unctions, waxed cloths,
frequent ablutions, in short keeping away from
diseases, Which-of all means is the most certain.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

282 DRESS.

SECTION II.

TEXTURE.

We may now consider the texture of dress.

Fineness and thinness are of course generally
preferable to their reverse in the dress of ladies.

Roughness or smoothness admits of some ob-
servation.

In general, ﬁne surfaces Which are somewhat
rough, form a good contrast With the smoothness
of the skin, as in velvet, Grape, lace, &c.

The opacity 0r transparency of the materials used
in dress, also deserves consideration.

With regard to the ﬁgure generally, an opaque
dress is in general better suited to a plump ﬁgure;
and a transparent dress to a thin one.

With regard to the face in particular, transpa-
rency of the dress Which comes in contact With it,
is in general preferable.

Rough and transparent crape, has a better effect
upon the face, than smooth and opaque cambric.

 

283 ,

SECTION III.

COLOURS.—-IN RELATION TO TEMPERATURE.

The colour of clothing inﬂuences more or less
the heat of the body.

White clothing reﬂects the caloriﬁc and lumi-
nous rays of light, Which black, on the contrary,
absorbs. In consequence of this fact, we are
generally led to suppose that we ought to prefer
in summer, cloth of a light colour, and during
Winter, that of darker colour. '

However, it is objected to this, that if, on one
hand, White clothing used in summer, reﬂects the
atmospheric heat from its external surface; on the
other hand, it reﬂects, by its internal surface turned
toward the body, the heat Which disengages itself
and endeavours to quit it, and it preserves it there,
instead of allowing it to escape as black clothing
does.

But Whether White clothing, When not exposed
to light, has any such power, seems to me doubt-
ful; and, at all events, as, in summer, the external
heat predominates, When, by a high temperature,
we directly receive the rays of the sun, we must
consider as little important, the concentration of

 

 

 

 

 

284 DRESS.

animal heat to which White clothing on the side
turned toward the skin, is thus supposed to leave
us exposed, in comparison With the defence Which
it offers by refracting the rays of the atmosphere.
This sort of clothing then, in this instance, Will be
more cool than black.

But When the temperature is low, is black cloth-
ing warmer than White, and consequently more fa—
vorable? The heat of the body then predominates;
our object is to retain it 3 and if, in the ﬁrst doubt-
ful supposition, White, turned toward the body, has
this effect, then White clothing may be preferable
even in Winter. The White fur assumed by many
animals in the intense cold of northern regions,
would seem to support this View. Still, we are
certain, that black worn externally must absorb
some calorie; and we know that, during Winter, it
has other recommendations.

From utility, we now proceed to ornament.

IN RELATION TO THEIR BEAUTY.

There is certainly nothing Which contributes
more to improve the appearance of an elegant
woman, than the taste displayed in the choice of
the colours of her dress. With taste in dress, we
readily associate the idea of a cultivated mind.

In the composition, then, of colours for dress,
there ought to be one predominating colour, to

 

COLOURS IN RELATION TO BEAUTY. 285

Which the rest should be subordinate. As painters
“ Permit not two conspicuous lights to shine
With rival radiance in the same design 5”

so in dress, one part of the body should never be
distinguished by one colour, and the other by an—
other. Whatever divides the attention, diminishes
the beauty of the object; and though each part,
taken separately, may appear beautiful, yet as a
Whole, the effect is destroyed.

It may be observed, says Mr. Alison, in his work
on Taste, “that no dress is beautiful, in Which there
is not some leading or predominant colour dis~
played, or in Which, if I may use the expression,
there is not some unity of colouring. A dress, in
Which different colours were employed in equal
quantities, in Which one half of the body was dis-
tinguished by one Colour, and the other by ano-
ther, or in Which each'particular limb was diffe-
rently coloured, would be ridiculous instead of
being beautiful. It is in this way, accordingly, that
mountebanks are dressed; and it never fails to
produce the effect that is intended by it ; to excite
the mirth and the ridicule of the common people.

“No dress is ever remarked as beautiful, in
Which the prevailing colour has not some pleasing
or affecting expression.” '

 

 

 

 

 

286 DRESS.

IN RELATION TO PARTICULAR PURPOSE.

“There are a variety of colours Which are chosen
for common apparel, Which have no character or
expression in themselves, and which are chosen
for no other reason, but because they are conveni-
ent for the peculiar occupations 01‘ amusements in
Which we are engaged. Such dress accordingly
has no beauty. When we say that it is a use—
ful or a convenient colour, we give it all the ap-
probation that it is entitled to.

“There are, on the contrary, a variety of colours
Which are expressive from peculiar associations,
Which are either gay, or delicate, or rich, or grave,
or melancholy. It is aIWays such Colours that are
chosen for What is properly called dress, or for that
species of apparel, in which something more than
mere convenience is intended. When We speak
of such dress, accordingly, we generally describe its
beautybyits character, by its being delicate, orrich,
or gay, 0r magniﬁcent, or in other words, by its
being distinguished by some pleasing or affecting
expression.

“‘We should feel an equal impropriety in any
person’s choosing the colour of ornamental dress,
on account of its convenience, as in his choosing
the colour of his common apparel, because it was
gay, or delicate, or splendid.

 

COLOURS IN RELATION TO CHARACTER. 287

“This diff'erenCe of expression, constitutes the
only distinction that seems to subsist between the
colours that are ﬁt for common, and those that are
ﬁt for ornamental apparel.”

IN RELATION TO CHARACTER 0R SITUATION.

“But besides this, there is another constituent
of the beauty of the prevailing colour: its relation
to the character or situation of the person Who
wears it. The same colour Which would be beau-
tiful in the dress of a prince, would be ridiculous
in the dress of a peasant. We expect gay colours
in the dress of youth, and sober and temperate
colours in the dress of age. We feel a propriety
in the cheerful colours of a marriage, and in the
melancholy colouring of mourning. There is a pro—
priety of relation also, between the colours that dis-
tinguish the dress of certain situations, and these
situations themselves; Which we never see violated
Without some degree of pain.”

IN RELATION TO CHARACTER OF COUNTENANCE
AND FORM.

“Besides all this, there is a relation of a still
more delicate kind, between the colours of dress,
and the character that distinguishes the counte~
nance and form of the person Who wears it; Which,
however little attended to, is one of the most im—

 

 

 

288 DRESS.

portant articles in the composition of dress, and
Which is never observed or violated, Without either
increasing or diminishing the beauty of the person
it distinguishes.

“As the general beauty of dress depends upon
the predominant colour being distinguished by
some pleasing or interesting expression; so the
beauty of dress in any particular situation or cha-
racter, depends upon this expression being suited
to that particular character or situation.”

IN RELATION TO COMPLEXION.

On this subject, Ovid long ago said:

“ Costly apparel let the fair one ﬂy,
Enrich’d With gold, or with the Tyrian dye.
What folly must in such expense appear,
When more becoming colours are less dear!
One, with a dye is tinged of lovely blue,
Such as, through air serene, the sky we view.
With yellow lustre see another spread,
As if the golden ﬂeece composed the thread.
Some, of the sea-green wave the cast display;
With this the nymphs their beauteous forms array;
And some the saffron hue will well adorn ;
Such is the mantle of the blushing morn.
Of myrtle-berries, one, the tincture shews;
In this, of amethysts, the purple glows;
And that, more imitates the paler rose.
Nor Thracian cranes forget, whose silvery plumes
Give patterns, which employ the mimic looms;
Nor almond, nor the chesnut dye disclaim,
Nor others which from wax derive their name.

 

RELATION OF COLOURS TO EACH OTHER. 289

As ﬁelds you ﬁnd with various ﬂowers o’er spread,
When vineyards bud, and Winter’s frost is ﬂed ;
So various are the colours you may try,

Of which the thirsty wool imbibes the dye.

Try every one, what best becomes you wear;

For no complea'z'on all alike can bear.”

OF THE CONSEQUENT CHOICE OF COLOURS.

Ovid, alas! abandons us, just Where his advice
would be most valuable,———in guiding us to the
choice of colours. That remains for us here.

The choice of the predominating colour Will be
indicated chieﬂy by the complexion of the wearer.

OF THE RELATION OF COLQURS TO EACH OTHER.

Here some observations on colours are necessary

The three primary colours are, yellow, red and
blue.

The binary compounds of these, are orange,
composed of yellow and red; purple, composed of
red and blue; and green, composed of blue and
yellow.

The ternary compounds of these, are citrine,
composed of green and orange, in Which therefore
yellQW predominates; russet, composed of orange
and purple, in Which therefore red predominates;
and olive, composed of purple and green, in Which
therefore blue predominates.

Each of the primary colours is perfectly con-
trasted by that secondary, Which is composed of

o

 

 

 

 

i290 » DRESS.

the two other primaries: thus yellow is contrasted
by purple, red by green, and blue by orange. Or,
Vice versa, purple is contrasted by yellow, green by
red, and orange by blue.

Either of the three primitive colours, as well as
the three compounds, blends harmoniously with
white or black.

The diagram, Plate 1. Fig. 4, will explain both
the composition and opposition of colours.

Here the yellow, red and blue, being primitives,
the orange, purple and green are seen to be com—
pounded from their intersections: as red and blue
crossing each other at purple; red and yellow, at
orange; and blue and yellow, at green.

It Will also be seen, in the diagram, that red and
green, blue and orange, purple and yellow, diame-
trically oppose each other.

The preceding facts as to the contrast of colours
are universally admitted. Those as to the har-
mony of colours, have not been so clearly under—
stood, or at least so clearly expressed, that I am
aware of. I shall therefore state, on that subject,
my own views, Which are strictly applicable to
dress, the purpose of this work.

The three simple colours, being distinct from
each other, and having nothing in common, do
not‘harmonize. It is therefore among compound
colours, having something in common, that we
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RELATION OF COLOURS TO EACH OTHER. 291

red has some harmony With orange, because both
enter into the composition of orange; and the same
degree of harmony, for the same reasons, Will red
or blue have With purple, and blue or yellow With
green. For similar reasons, yellow Will harmonize
with citrine, red With russet, and blue With olive.

But if the principle I have assumed be true,
then the harmony of colours should be increased
When, instead of one, two common elements pass
into each. We accordingly ﬁnd that a more per—
fect harmony exists, for instance, between the co—
lour called lavender, and that called lilac, because
blue and red are constituents of both, While their
distinctness is maintained by blue predominating
in one, and red in the other, and by one being
dark, and the other light.

Neutral or negative colours are the three 'eolours
of each kind s0 combined that no one predominates
in effect.

My object, in these details, is to illustrate the
inﬂuence of colours upon the face.

APPLICATION OF COLOURS TO THE FACE BY
CONTRAST.

 

In applying colours to the face by contrast, the
following principles are essential.

If the .eomplexion be too yellow, then yellow a—
round the face removes it by contrast, and causes
the red and blue to predominate. -— Plate 11.

o 2

 

 

 

N)

92 DRESS.

illustrates the management of this complexion,
by showing that lilac or any shade of purple around
the face increases it, While yellow removes it by
contrast.

It is on this principle that we must understand
the observation of a French writer that, “a deep
yellow hat, a dress of unbleached cambric, in short,
all possible shades of yellow, from dark yellow to
straw colour, are perfectly suited to our brunettes.
Yellow ﬂowers amongst their dark locks render
them almost charming, Whilst With all this, a fair
girl would appear almost livid.”

If red predominates in the complexion, then red
around the face removes it by contrast, and causes
the yellow and blue to predominate.—Plate III.
illustrates the management of this complexion, by
showing that green around the face increases it,
while red removes it by contrast.

When a face contains too much blue, then blue
around the face removes it by contrast, and causes
the yellow and red to predominate.—Further
Plates in illustration of colour are not necessary:
the principle is evident.

If yellow and red predominate in the complexion,
orange is to be used. ‘

If the face contain too much red and blue, pur—
ple must be employed.

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293

OBJECTIONS ANSWERED.

To these principles, the painter may object that
a balance of colour is necessary in a picture,——that
though yellow predominate in a face, it is never—
theless necessary to have purple in the picture,
which, according to these principles, should have
an injurious tendencyin increasing the yellow;
and so 0n,-——that though the face is too red, green
is usefu1,——and that, though the face may be too
blue, yellow is useful.

To this I answer, that these facts do not in the
least impugn the preceding prineiples. Such co—
lours may be useful in such pictures, but they
ought not to be brought into contact With the face,
~if that truly represent the original.

In fact, the very same principles apply to the
living face as to the painted imitation, With this
difference, that the painting has a ﬁxed background,
limited by a frame, Which the living face has not.
It is because the background is ﬁxed, that the
balance of colour must also be ﬁxed in a picture.
The living head moves, and is opposed to various
backgrounds, so that it may be. necessary to give
it that drapery Which Will suit it to the most fre-
quent, or to the greatest number of, backgrounds.

It is not however denied, that if this drapery,
down to the feet, were of one colour, it would be
monotonous, and would require relief.

 

 

 

 

294 DRESS.

APPLICATION OF COLOURS TO THE FACE BY
REFLEXION.

We now arrive at an important point in female
costume—the application of colours to the face
by reﬂexion, as exempliﬁed by the lining of bon—
nets, Which reﬂect their colour on the face, or
transparent bonnets Which transmit that colour,
and equally tinge it. In both these cases, the co—
lour should no longer be that Which is placed a-
round the face, and acts on it by contrast, but the
opposite. As green, aroundthe face, would heighten
a faint red in the cheeks by contrast, so the pink
lining of a bonnet would aid it by reﬂexion.

In the same manner, linings Which reﬂect,
should always be of the tint Which is wanted in
the face. But then care should be taken that these
linings do not come into the direct view of the
observer, and operate prejudicially on the face by
contrast, overpowering the little colour Which, by
reﬂexion, they should heighten. The fronts of
bonnets so lined, therefore, should not Widen great-
ly forward, and bring their colour into contrast.

When bonnets do Widen, the proper contrast
may be used as a lining; but then it should not
have a surface much adapted for reﬂexion, other-
wise it may perform that ofﬁce, and injure the
complexion.

 

295

APPLICATION OF COLOURS TO FAIR OR TO
DARK COMPLEXIONS.

Haing considered the application of these co—
lours in a general way, we may now observe, that
fair faces are by contrast best acted on by light
colours, ahd dark faces by darker colours.

The reason Why dark faces are best affected by
darker colours, is evidently because they tend to
render the complexion fairer; and the reason Why
fair faces do not require dark colours, is because
the opposition would be too strong, —— they are
already sufﬁciently fair, and do not need to be
blanched.

It may, for instance, be supposed, that dark
yellow would by contrast act best on a fair ruddy
face, having a yellow tint ; but a little consideration
Will show, that While the yellow in the dark yellow
tends to overcome the yellow in the countenance,
the black in the dark yellow tends oppositely t0
blanch the face.

APPLICATION OF WHITE OR BLACK, T0 RUDDY
OR TO PALE COMPLEXIONS.

We may now consider in What degree White or
black may approach the face Which is still ruddy.
Here let me observe, that nature has generally
in the human face, combined red With Vvhite,~—~

 

 

296 DRESS.

never With black. All the White races are distin-
guished by a sanguine hue: the negro has none.
Hence the compatibility of White, and the incom—
patibility of black, With the ruddy face, is indi-
cated. Indeed it cannot be otherwise: red may
appear on White; it cannot on black. Black ac-
cordingly is never a suitable costume Where there
is red in the face; and the less so, the stronger the
red is.

Black, it may be observed, is more objectionable
for a dark and ruddy, than for a fair and ruddy
complexion in females.

All the preceding rules apply to faces, in Which
there is more or less of red. When that is want-
ing, the complexion is defective, as in Albinos; and
another mode of proceeding is required.

To pale faces the application of yellow, by con-
trast, would, on the preceding principles, tend to
produce a livid hue; that of red, a green hue; and
that of blue, a sallow hue, none of Which are de-
sirable. Hence to such faces, the use of the
Whole of this range of colour is lost: the absence of
red renders it inapplicable. White and black alone
remain to them; and this has not escaped vulgar
notice, Which, Without being aware of the reason,
has often pointed out the suitableness of White
and black, to pale complexions. This, however, is
only a relative suitableness: the face is imperfect;
and these colours are only less unsuitable, than
others would be.

 

COLOURS SUITABLE T0 COMPLEXION. 297

Ovid notices these two peculiarities, the ﬁrst as
to fair and pale, and the second as to brown wo-

men:

“If fair the skin, black may become it best:
In black, the lovely fair Briseis dress’d.
If brown the nymph, [ether be clothed in white:
Andromeda so charm’d the wandering sight.”

Dark persons, Who hax‘re eyes, eye-lashes, and
eye brows strikingly dark, may not only wear White
in contrast to the colour of the skin, but in contrast
to that of the eyes, &c. If indeed their eyes, eye—
brows, &c. be the ﬁnest features, White Will have
the best effect, especially by artiﬁcial light, When
their brilliance is greatest, and all yellow of the
face disappears.

If black is thus employed, as a contrast to a fair
and pale, and White to a dark and pale complexion,
it is founded on the supposition, that the com-
plexion on Which attention is thus ﬁxed by strong
contrast, is that of youth, When the skin presents
the beauty of smoothness, polish, transparency and
some degree of animation, and that on these the
claim to beauty rests.

If, on the contrary, these charms are gone, it is
evident that such contrast Will lose its advantages;
and that then pale and fair women will look best
in White, because it Will bestow more positive co—

lour upon the face, and especially upon the eyes:
0 3

 

 

298 Unmsst

eyebrows, &c.; and pale and dark women will look
best in black, because it will contribute to lighten
the complexion.——Plate IV. illustrates the manage-
ment of this complexion. Painting cannot so
easily illustrate that variety, in which transparency
and some degree of animation render white the
preferable colour.

Addison observes, “That the palest features look
the most agreeable in white; and that a dark com-
plexion is not a little alleviated by a black hood.”
And Home, explaining this rightly, adds “A com—
plexion, however dark, never approaches to black:
when these colours appear together, their oppo-
sition strikes us; and the propensity we have to
complete the opposition, makes the darkness of
complexion vanish out of sight.”

RELIEVING COLOURS.

We now come to the consideration of the prin—
ciples on which colours must be employed to give
relief to the face.

“No dress,” says Mr.A1ison, in his work on
Taste, “ is ever considered as beautiful, in which
the composition of the inferior colours is not
adapted to the peculiar expression of the prevail-
ing colour. The mere accumulation of different
colours, without any regard to the general colour
of the dress, every one knows to be proverbially

 

 

 

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RELIEVING COLOURS. 299

expressive of' ignorance and vulgarity. To suit
these colours, on the other hand, to the prevailing
colour, is considered as the great criterion of taste
in this kind of composition.

“If you enquire, accordingly, Why, in any par—
ticular case, such colours are not suited to the
dress, you Will be told that they are either too gla—
ring, too solemn, too gay, or too delicate, for the
predominant colour; in other words, that they do
not accord. With the expression of the dress, and
that on this account the composition is not beau-
tiful. Wherever, in this article, it is said that ,
colours either suit, or do not suit, What is meant
or felt, I believe, is that their expressions either
agree, or do not agree.”

This language is vague; but still it expresses the
vague feeling which exists on the subject. The
following is more precise.

“ It is upon the same account, that different
colours in dress, admit of very different degrees of
variety, in the composition of the subordinate
colours. Rich colours admit of little variety.
Grave or melancholy colours, of less. Delicate
colours admit more of contrast than of variety.
Gay or cheerful colours demand a great proportion
of variety.

“In all these cases, the proportion which is beau- ’
tiful, is that Which accords With the peculiar nature
of the emotion that the predominant colour excites.

 

 

300 DRESS.

Strong emotions, and emotions Which border upon
pain, require uniformity in their objects. Rick,
0r magnéﬁcent, 0r mournﬂtl dresses, require there-
fore a greatproportz'on of uniformity in the com—
position 0f the colouring. Weak emotions require
to be supported and enlivened. Dresses of a
gentle 0r delicate character are tkerefore best
illustrated by contrast. Emotions Which belong
to pleasure demand variety in their objects.
Dresses of a gag charactw, admit therefore qf a
greater proportion of variety in their colouring
than any of the others.

“These slight hints, may perhaps lead the reader
to conclude, that the beauty of dress (in so far as
it relates to the composition of colours) depends
upon the unity of expression; and that taste, in this
respect, consists in the accurate perception of the
expressions of colours, and of their relation both
to each other, and t0 the character or situation of
the person for Whom they are destined.”

It is, then, light colours, primitive or binary,
Which are best used for gay dresses, and best placed
in contrast; and it is darker colours, ternary 01'
neutral, Which are best used for grand dresses,
and best placed in harmony. In the latter case,
the relieving colour, being in smaller quantity,
should be more simple and Vivid, than the general
colour of the dress, but should by no means over—
power it. '

 

30]

COLOURS RELIEVING BY CONTRAST.

A predominating colour of light tint is well re“
lieved by the colour, simple or compound, Which
is its natural contrast, as purple of yellow, or blue
of orange.

The relieving colour ought not to exist in too
great a quantity, because it would then surpass the
other in effect. Indeed, that the relieving colour
should be in small quantity, is evident from its
very name.

The relieving colour should not be darker than
the colour it is intended to relieve, for it then pre—
sents an opposition, Which should always be
avoided. Contrast, skilfully managed, gives force
and lustre to the colour relieved, While opposition
mars its effect.

THEIR MANAGEMENT IN RELATION TO THE
FACE.

If the preceding principles be true, it is certain
that the colour relieving by contrast, ought not to
be brought into contact With the face, Where its
strong and direct contrastwould heighten the faulty
tint in the face.

Near to the face, indeed, the smallest quantity
of that colour should exist. While abroad border

 

 

30:2 DRESS.

0r ﬂounce 0f the relieving colour, may be at the
bottom of the dress, or a lining Which is often
shewn by turning up, a narrower margin, or mere
ties, should alone mark the edges as they ascend,
and this colour should give place to White near the
face.

This rule is enforced by actual practice, though
it is followed Without system or rule, and almost
instinctively; as it is at the bottom of dresses
chieﬂy that broad borders of relieving colours are
used, and near the face that White is employed.

COLOURS RELIEVING BY HARMONY.

A predominating colour of darker tint is Well
relieved by that Which best harmonizes With it, in
the manner already pointed out. The relieving
colour should neither exist in too great a quantity,
nor should it be darker than the colour it is intended
to relieve.

Colours relieving by harmomy may evidently,
With less impropriety, be brought into contact With
the face; because if the general colour of the dress
be well suited to the complexion, that Which har—
monizes with it cannot be very prejucial.

 

303

COLOUR OF APARTMENTS.

After all that has been said, it is scarcely nee
eessary to add, that objects Which constitute a back—
ground to the face, or Which, on the contrary, re-
ﬂect their hues upon it, always either add to, or
detract from, the beauty of the complexion. For
this and perhaps some other reasons, many persons
look better at home in their apartments than in
the streets. Apartments may indeed be peculiarly
arranged, so as to improve particular complexions.

Many ladies, however, bestow almost scrupulous
attention upon the selection of shades, in the choice
of a ﬂower or ribbon, Which Will last a few months,
perhaps a few days, but When it is some article of
furniture, Which Will last for some years, they alto—
gether neglect the inﬂuence of colour.

In general, the colour of the walls of any apart—
ment, against Which the face is seen, and With
Which it is compared Will operate by contrast; for
though the other walls Will also reﬂect, yet that
will be a general and vague reﬂexion on all that
the room contains, While the contrast between the
face and opposite wall, Will be particular and
striking.

On the contrary, When a lady’s face is placed
amidst hangings of any colour, they Will, from
their nearness on all sides, operate by reﬂexion;

%

 

 

304 DRESS.

and this Will be the more striking because the ob-
server Will probably be remote from their inﬂuence.
Thus by the reﬂexion ofyellow hangings, a blonde
Will acquire a hopeless insipidity; close to green
Window curtains, a dark brunette will look as
though waiting for the nurse or the doctor, &c. &C.

A single word may be added as to cleanliness of
dress. In this respect, a lady Will appear pure
and bright, or not at all.

S ECTION IV.

GENERAL FORM OF DRESS.—ITS PRINCIPLES.

The cosmetic art, considered in the full extent
«of its object, that is, the cultivation, improvement
and preservation of beauty, extends and applies to
such a disposition and arrangement of the clothes,
as may be most favourable to the preservation and
development of the shape.

It is a ﬁrst principle of dress, that loose drapery,
Which adjusts itself to the body, partly by hanging,
and partly by wrapping around the body, is pre-
ferable to a tighter dress, Which is fashioned t0
the shape and ﬁgure.

 

GENERAL FORM OF DRESS. 305

There are several reasons of this superiority of
loose drapery over tight clothing.

Compression may injure respiration or diges-
tion, by'preventing the enlargement of the thora-
cic and abdominal cavities. This is frequently the
consequence of wearing tight corsets. Tight gar-
ters are likely to stop the circulation of the blood.
Any article of dress that impedes the function
of an organ, must eventually produce very serious
accidents.

A loose drapery is always cooler in summer, and
warmer in Winter than tight clothing, and at
both seasons of the year, a much stronger de-
fence against the ill effects of sudden changes of
temperature.

A loose drapery may always be disposed so
as to produce either a beautiful or majestic effect:
a tight dress is always ugly, and generally ridi-
culous.

THE ANCIENT GREEK DRESS.

This dress, Which was loose and ﬂowing, and
Which has partly served as a model for the
modern, in general possessed more beauty and
dignity.

The precious remains of Grecian sculpture,

says Mr. Payne Knight, “afford standards of real

 

.,,,.»;...‘ ginowwtm.

. ......—-u-a

 

 

306 DRESS.

beauty, grace and elegance in the human form,
and the modes of adorning it, the truth and per~
fection of which have never been questioned,
although divers other modes of producing and eX-
hibiting those qualities have since prevailed in
different ages and countries.”

This dress was essentially composed of three
pieces, arranged so as to form a drapery, and en-
velop the person with much grace and elegance.

The ﬁrst piece, the tunic, fastened on the
shoulders with Clasps or buttons and ﬁtted to the
waist by means of a girdle, reached down as far
as the feet, which it partly covered. It was so
long, that it would have trailed along the ground,
if it had not been drawn up by the cincture.

The second piece, the ricinium, was a shorter
tunic, worn by females over the ﬁrst, and intended
to cover the upper part of the body only.

The third piece, the cloak, pallium, was com—
mon to both sexes, but worn and arranged by the
women, with much more grace.—The peplum,
Which Winkelman has confounded with the pal-
lium, was another article of dress, less essential,
worn by women under the tunic.

They also made use of two girdles; one worn
underneath the breast; the other, at the lower part
of the waist, where it served to fasten the tunic.
This girdle and many other articles of dress, were

 

GENERAL FORM OF DRESS. 307

not worn by some women, Whose style of dress
was much less decent.

The looseness and ease of their vestments, Which
gave full and free play to the exercise of the
muscles, contributed much to develop in both
sexes, amongst the Greeks, those beautiful pro—
portions Which we see in their statues, and Which
still serve as models in art, at a time When nature,
distorted and disﬁgured by the caprices of fashion,
has long ceased to produce them amongst us.

CHARACTER OF NORTHERN CLOTHING.

The judicious remarks of Professor Hallé, on
northern clothing, compared With that of the
people of the east and south, are well worth
attention.

The clothing of the latter, says he, “has
'always been made in such a manner, as to fall from
the shoulders over the rest of the body, and is
adjusted to the shape solely by girdles, either
beneath the breast or above the hips. The dress
of the northern nations, on the contrary, has always
been divided into two parts; one covering the
inferior half of the body from the hips to the feet,
forming What we call the peticoat; the other
attached above the shoulder, fitting more or less
closely to the body down to the waist, and falling
more or less over the peticoat.

 

 

 

308 DRESS.

“ The peticoat is the chief distinguishing cha-
racter of the northern dress; and this observation
is important in this respect :

“As females fasten the peticoat above their hips,
they are obliged to fasten it rather tight, to prevent
it slipping down. Cold also has constrained them
to wear several; and the hips consequently appear
enlarged, as much by the number of peticoats, as
by the thickness Which the gathering of the folds
at the waistband necessarily produces. The con-
trast of this thickness, With the effect of the
bodice Which ﬁts close to the body down to the
waist, has given rise to the idea, that a small slender
waist is very beautiful.

“This kind of beauty, becoming more remarkable
by the extraordinary prominence of the hips, women
have endeavoured, by exaggerating this contrast, to
improve their ﬁgure. They have not merely ridi-
culously overcharged and increased the size of

their hips, but have unnaturally tightened and
‘ constrained that part of the body which joins them.
These false ideas of beauty produced the invention
of stays, a kind of mould for distorting nature, by
compressing the ribs and stomach into the shape
of an inverted cone, to the complete destruction of
that graceful and ﬂowing contour Which nature
has bestowed.”

 

CHAPTER II.

PARTICULAR ARTICLES OF CLOTHING.

FUNDAMENTAL AND LESS VARIABLE ARTICLES.

SECTION L
LINEN.

OF all the articles of the toilet, linen is the most
important; and in this respect, we enjoy a luxury
totally unknown to the ancients. The softness
and ﬁneness of its texture produces no irritation
of the skin, and can be changed daily; Whilst the
woollen mantles used Without being daily cleaned,
give us no very elevated ideas of ancient cleanli—
ness 0r comfort. '

The introduction of this article of clothing
among the modems is doubtless, in a great degree,
the cause of the disappearance of certain disgust-
ing affections of the skin, such as leprosy, a dis-
order to Which many nations, as the Jews, not
remarkable for cleanliness, are known to have been
subject.

If the skin is at any time irritable, no other

 

 

 

310 DREes.

tissue than linen should be worn. The mistaken
substitution of cotton textures, for the sake of
economy, is productive of great evils, and con-
sequently is more expensive in the end.

If the chemise be too large, it forms creases
under the stays, Which are troublesome, and leave
marks on the skin; and for this reason, it should
be made of very pliant and ﬁne materials. A
chemise of new linen should not be worn at ﬁrst
except in bed.

The chemise should be made sufﬁciently low
before and behind, not to extend beyond the rest
of the dress.

The sleeves may have worked wristbands,
with an edging of net or lace.

The drawers Where linen is kept may be scented
with Florence iris—root: it is a sweet and refreshing
scent; and has besides the quality of keeping out
insects. It is preferable to all perfume bags.

SECTION II.

STAYS.—-THEIR HISTORY.

Here we must observe, that the beauty of the V
waist, Whether high, intermediate, or low, depends
in a great measure on the form of the corsets or
stays.

 

STAYS. 311

It is probable, that the necessity of supporting
the ﬁgure in domestic duties, in maternal cares,
and in dancing, has compelled women in all ages
to use some kind of cincture. Whilst this was
conﬁned to the support of the breast, or to make
the folds of a ﬂowing robe fall gracefully, it was an
ornament both useful and agreeable.

The ancients had accordingly several sorts of
cinctures. One used solely to preserve the spherical
form of the breast, was called by the Greeks taco
nidion, and by the Romans strophium. Catullus
and Ovid furnish ladies with rules for the use of
this band; and it was in such general use at
Rome that there was a class of shopkeepers there
called strophiarii. The other cincture, called
tainia zona, and sometimes mitra, was intended
to encircle the figure, and fasten the waving
folds of the drapery.

Women who from age had become corpulent,
used the tacnidion or strophium to compress the
increase of size produced by the labours 0f Lucina.
Afterwards, a slender shape was esteemeda beauty;
and mothers then instructed their daughters to
compress and diminish their natural proportions.

Terence, in his comedy of the Eunuch, makes
Phoedria say, in speaking of a young beauty whose
charms had suddenly struck him, “this girl has
nothing in common with ours, whose mothers force
them to diminish their height, and oblige them to

6 .

 

 

312 DRESS.

pull themselves in with girths to make them ap-
pear thinner.”

In the collection of antiquities in the Medicean
cabinet, there is a description of a Cameo repre-
senting Venus waited on by the Graces, in which
the vestment of the Goddess half conceals her per-
son, and the girdle which encircles her is seen
below her breast.

In some antique statues, says Winckelman,
“ this cincture was as wide as a girth, as is the case
in the statue of the colossal Muse in the Chancery
at Rome, and in that of Aurora on the arch of
Constantine. The Bacchante of Villa—madama
and the Tragic Muse, the austere Melpomene,
have both the cincture wide.”

This was an essential part of the women’s dress,
quite different from the other cincture, which
was worn over the robe.

A German author, Mr. Boettiger, in his delight—
ful work entitled, “The Morning of a Roman
Lady,” shews us exactly how the strophium or
breast-band was attached. Sabina, says he,
“has put on the under tunic, which corresponds
to the chemise: this tunic was fastened under the
throat till the toilet was completed. The young
Cippassis unties this cincture, and afterwards en-
circles her mistress’s breast with a purple band,
which was used formerly instead of busks and
elastic corsets, as being both more simple and
more convenient.”

 

STAYS. 313

These bands, which in all probability gave rise
to the ﬁrst idea of corsets: had not been long in
use before they were decorated with everything
that the love of fashion and the desire of pleasing
could invent; and the corset of the young Roman
girls became the most striking part of their dress,
as it is, even at the present day, amongst the Italian
women, according to the paintings and narratives
of our artists.

Busks, which have been used in modern times
to prop up women’s shapes, were in all probability
the invention of the middle ages, for there is no
mention made, in the customs of antiquity, of the
whalebone husk, much less of the steel busk.

Some models of the lower empire seem to prove
that they were invented by the Italians of that
time. It seems probable that they were intro-
duced there, as in other parts, by the Italian mer—
chants, who for many years engrossed the whole
commerce in matters relative to the toilet.

When stiff whalebones and extreme tightness
are added to this, it would seem that a wasp, or
one of those glittering insects that ﬂutter over
the surface of the water, is no inapt resemblance
of a woman dressed up in this ridiculous appa—
ratus. What can be more absurd than to see a
being whose body appears united by a very small
tube to the hips, and the hips themselves ren—
dered of an enormous size by excessive padding?

P

 

 

 

314 DRESS.

EFFECT OF STAYS 0N BEAUTY.

J oseph II. endeavoured, but unsuccessfully, to
abolish the wearing of Whalebone stays in his (10-
minions: he issued a decree in Which he prohibited
the use of any corsets Whatever in the orphan
schools, convents, and every establishment devoted
to the education of girls; and, for the purpose of
throwing a kind of disgrace upon this injurious
custom, women condemned to corporal punish-
ment or hard labour were obliged to wear stays
and hoops.

It is indeed grievous that fashion, to which so
much is sacriﬁced, should, some years ago, have
reintroduced these foolish customs, and, that the
ﬁgures of our young girls were again submitted
to its barbarous edicts.

The eager desire of amending the defects of
nature has induced the use of stays, as a mechanical
means, to prevent or correct those forms Which are
commonly ascribed to her errors, but Which we
might more frequently impute to our own.

This part of our subject, I regret to say, has
not always been Wisely treated, even by medical
writers. They generally, if not always, speak of
the compression of the waist as quite unacceunt—
able and quite unnathral.

 

EFFECT OF STAYS 0N BEAUTY. 315

We know, says one of them, “ That as often as
the waist is lengthened to its natural limits, the
tendency to abridge its diameter appears; and we
confess we are puzzled to account for the fact;
for surely it is strange that a permanent prepos—
session should exist in favour of a mode of dress
Which is at once ugly, unnatural and pernicious.”

Now, every young woman knows that one of
the most conspicuous differences between the
young and the 01d, consists in the less or the
greater distension 0f the waist. Is it then un-
accountable or unnatural that she should prefer
seeming young to seeming 01d? Every young
woman knows that one of the most conspicuous
differences between the maiden and the matron
consists in the same less or greater distension of
the waist. Is it unnatural, then, that she should
prefer seeming maidenly to seeming matronly?
Men, Who write so ignorantly 0r injudiciously, do
not promote the interests of truth; but, on the
contrary, excite a suspicion that it is their in-
tention to impose. It is the use of force and
excessive compression that are alone blame-
able.

‘When, indeed, corsets are employed to render
the chest as small below, and as broad above, as
possible, and greatly to increase the fulness and
prominence of the bosomg—When the young lady
spends a quarter of an hour in lacing her stays as

P 2

 

 

 

316’ DRESS.

tight as possible, and is sometimes seen by her
female friends pulling hard for some minutes,
next pausing to breathe, then resuming the task
with might and main, till, aftef perhaps a third
effort, she at last succeeds, and sits down covered
With perspiration; then it is that the effect of
stays is not only injurious to the shape, but is
calculated to produce the most serious incon—
veniences.

And What is the eﬂ'ect of this compression upon
the eye and mind of the observer? It excites an
instantaneous conviction of artiﬁce, and a very
natural suspicion of its necessity: notions equally
at variance With beauty and purity are called up;
and the object of these dark thoughts may excite
much more contempt than admiration. When,
indeed, a lady is tightly laced, she loses the
character at once of beauty, of grace, and of
innocence.

If the ancients, Who have left us the most per-
fect models of human beauty, obtained it by sim-
ple means, by supporting the shape without com-
pressing it, we must necessarily obtain the oppo—
site result by our folly, in attempting to form the
shape by means of Whalebone bodies and corsets.

The human form has been moulded by nature,
and the best shape is undoubtedly that Which she
has given it. To endeavour to render it more ele—
gant by such means, is to change it: to make it

 

EFFECT OF STAYS ON BEAUTY. 317

much smaller below, and much larger above, is to
destroy its beauty: to keep it cased 11p in a kind
of domestic cuirass, is not only to deform it, but
to expose the internal parts to numerous and
frightful accidents.

Under this compression, the development of
the bones, Which are still tender, does not take
place conformably to the intentions of nature,
because nutrition is stopped, andthey conse—
quently become twisted and deformed.

Soemmerring, in one of his works, presents us a
drawing made from nature, of the ﬁgure of a
woman Who had all her life worn tight stays, and
one of the statue of the Medicean Venus; and
nothing can better exemplify the horrible effects
of this absurd practice. But for the most minute
and valuable information on this deeply interest-
ing subject, I beg to refer to the work of Mr.
Coulson on “Deformities of the Chest,” pub-
lished by Mr. Hurst, St. Paul’s Church Yard.
Every lady Who wears stays, and Who has the
slightest regard either for beauty or for health,
should immediately peruse that interesting work.

Women Who wear very tight stays complain
that they cannot sit upright Without them, nay,
are compelled to wear night stays When in bed;
and this strikingly proves to what an extent tight
stays weaken the muscles of the trunk. It is

 

 

 

318 DRESS.

this Which predisposes to lateral curvature of the
spine.

From these facts, as well as many others, it is
evident, that tight stays, far from preventing the
deformities, more or less considerable, Which an
experienced eye might remark among ninety out
of every hundred young girls, are, on the contrary,
the cause of these deviations. Stays, therefore,
should never be worn under any circumstances till
the organs have acquired a certain development,
and they should never at any period be tight.

A well known effect of the use of stays is, that
the right shoulder frequently becomes larger than
the left, because the former, being stronger and
more frequently in motion, somewhat frees itself,
and acquires by this means an increase, of Which
the left side is deprived, by being feebler and
subjected to continued compression.

The injur , says a correspondent of the Scots-
man, “does not fall merely on the structure of
the body, but also on its beauty, and on the
temper and feelings With Which that beauty is
associated. Beauty is in reality but another name
for that expression of countenance which is the
index of sound health, intelligence, good feelings,
and peace of mind. All are aware, that uneasy
feelings, existing habitually in the breast, speedily
exhibit their signature on the countenancej and

 

EFFECT OF STAYS ON BEAUTY. 319

that bitter thoughts, or a bad temper, spoil the
human face divine of its grace. But it is not so
generally known that irksome or painful sensa~
tions, though merely of a physical nature, by a
law equally certain, rob the temper of its sweet~
ness, and, as a consequence, the countenance of
the more etherial and better part of its beauty.”*

In many persons, tight stays displace the breast,
and produce an ineff'aceable and frightful wrinkle
between it and the shoulder. And in othersj
Whom nature has not gifted With the plumpness
necessary to beauty, such stays make the breasts
still ﬂatter and. smaller.

Generally speaking, tight stays destroy also the
ﬁrmness of the breast, sometimes prevent the full
development of the nipples, and give rise to those
indurations of the mammary glands, the cause of
Which is frequently not well understood, and Which
are followed by such dreadful consequences.

They also cause a reddish tinge of the skin,
swelling of the neck, &c.

A delicate and. slender ﬁgure is full of beauty, in
a young person; but suppleness and ease confer
an additional charm. Yet most women, eager to
be in the extreme of fashion, lace themselves in their

* “ It may not be amiss to inform the ladies, according to our
medical instructor, that the red-pointed nose which glows, rather
inauspiciously, on some female faces, is in many cases the con—
sequence of tight lacing.”

 

 

 

320 DRESS.

stays as tight as possible, and undergoing innu~
merable tortures, appear stiff; ungraceful and ill-
tempered. Elegance of shape, dignity of move-
ment, grace of manner, and softness of demeanour
are all sacriﬁced to foolish caprice.

EFFECT OF STAYS ON HEALTH.

Stays tend to transform into a point the base of
the cone Which the osseous frame of the chest
represents, and to maintain in a state of immo—
bility two cavities whose dimensions should vary
without ceasing. By this compression, stays are
prejudicial to the free execution of several im-
portant functions, muscular motion, circulation,
respiration, digestion.

The muscles or organs of motion are enlarged
by free exercise, and are destroyed by compres—
sion. Every degree of this, as exercised by stiﬁ'
stays, diminishes and enfeebles the muscles of the
chest: a great degree of it absolutely annihilates
them. Long before that is accomplished, the
stays become necessary for support, instead of the
muscles; but, as their support is remote from the
spine, as well as inadequate, it yields, and lateral
curvature 0r crooked back ensues. Retreat to na-
tural habits is now difﬁcult or impossible; if the
muscles retain any power, they increase the cur-

 

EFFECT OF STAYS ON HEALTH. 3‘21

vature ; and the wretched being is reduced to the
necessity of obtaining support and maintaining
existence by stays still stiffer during the day, and
by night stays When in bed!

By impeding the circulation of blood through
the lungs, the use of stays not only prevents their
proper development, and renders respiration difﬁ-
cult, but becomes a predisposing cause of con-
vulsive coughs, consumption, palpitation of the
heart and aneurism.

From the same cause, obstinate and dangerous
obstructions in the abdominal organs, Which are
displaced by the pressure of the busk, are of fre-
quent occurrence.

In females, the liver has frequently been found
pushed several inches beyond the last ribs, and its
superior surface perceptibly marked by them;
and this produced solely by the pressure of the
stays upon the organs contained in the chest.

The breasts, owing to compression, are, as well
as other organs, liable to become schirrous ; and
an opening is thus made for cancerous affections
and hysterical diseases; to Which last, a sedentary
life alone sufﬁciently predisposes.

Difﬁcult labours and the utter wreck'which they
produce of health and of beauty, are equally the
effects of the hip or hanch bones being alteredj
during youth, by the pressure of stays.

All this is supported by the highest authorities.

P 3

 

 

 

322 DRESS.

Locke, Who was a physician, says “VVhalebone
stays often make the chest narrow, and the back
crooked: the breath becomes foetid; and con-
sumption probably follows.”

“I cannot conceive,” says Rousseau, “how this
abuse, Which is carried in England to a sur—
prising extent, does not eventually cause the species
to degenerate ; and I maintain, that the style Which
is adopted as a beauty is quite the reverse; for it
is anything but agreeable to see a woman cut in
two like a wasp. This defect strikes the eye in
the naked ﬁgure: how can it be a beauty in the
clothed one.”

The only circumstance, says Reynolds, “against
which indignation may reasonably be moved, is,
Where the operation is painful or destructive of
health; such as some of the practices at Otaheite,
and the strait lacing 0f the English ladies; of
the last of Which practices, how destructive it
must be to health and long life the professor of
anatomy took an opportunity of proving a few
days since in this Academy.”

Physicians and philosophers, says Roussel,
“ have exposed the abuse Which arises from this;
they have represented it as an obstacle Which in
children is opposed to their development, and
which, in persons already formed, may so em-
barrass the exercise of the functions as to derange
their order, and to alter the natural form of their

 

EFFECT OF STAYS ON HEALTH. 323'

organs; in ﬁne, as a thing which shocks even
the notion of beauty which they have in View.
An unfavourable indication as to those stays is,
that, among people who make no use of them, the
women have a better shape than among those who
regard this supplement or this corrective as neces-
sary to the work of nature, and who think that
human beings may be fashioned like matters of
art submitted to the plane or the chisel. The little
success of this practice ought to have enlightened
them as to the falsehood of the ideas on which it
is founded, to have inspired them with greater con—
ﬁdence in the simple operations of nature, and to
have convinced them that these are as healthful
and felicitous when they are not contradicted, as
they are imperfect and irregular when we en—
deavour to blend with them our procedures and
our caprices.

Dr. Gregory, in his Comparative View of the
State and Faculties of Man, with those of the
Animal World, says “ We laugh at the folly and
are shocked at the cruelty of these barbarians, but
think it a very clear case that the natural shape of
woman’s chest is not so elegant as we can make
it, by the conﬁnement of stays. The common
effect of this practice is obstructions in the lungs
from their not having sufﬁcient room to play, which,
besides tainting the breath, cuts off numbers of
young women in the very bloom of life. But na—

 

 

 

 

 

324 DRESS.

ture has shewn her resentment of this practice in
a very striking manner, by rendering above half
the women of fashion deformed in some degree
or other.”

The baneful inﬂuence of tight lacing, says
Dr. Dufﬁn, “ on the form of the lungs and liver, is
familiar to every one Who has had an opportunity
of spending a Winter in the dissecting—room. These
organs are often found moulded into shapes the
most distant from natural; conforming, in fact, to
the unnatural conﬁguration imparted to the chest
and lower ribs, resulting from long-continued in»
jurious pressure. HOW then can they be reason-
ably expected to perform, in a proper manner, their
peculiar functions, essential as these are to the
preservation of perfect health?

“Nay, there are not wanting instances wherein
this injurious practice has been carried even to a
much more serious extent. We remember reading
in the Times newspaper, a few years ago, a case
similar to the following, Which is extracted from
the Nottingham Review, for October 3, 1834:—
Laced to Death.—Harriet, youngest daughter
of Mr. Tory, farmer of VVisbeach, died suddenly
on the 18th instant, in consequence, it is supposed,
of being too tightly laced. A coroner’s inquest
on the body returned the verdict—Died by the
visitation of God. [It should have been—Squeezed
to Death] ”

 

325

EFFECT OF STAYS ON PREGNANCY.

Loose clothing is at all times preferable to those
eprsets Which deform the shape, impede the na-
tural development of the organs, and expose the
wearer to numerous maladies; but, during preg—
nancy, it becomes a matter of paramount im—
portance.

The ancient Athenians and the other Greeks
were so careful With respect to their progeny, that
particular magistrates were appointed, by special
laws, to enquire into the kind of vestments worn
by women. Such, also, was'the case among the
ancient Venetians. They were aware that either
abortions 0r badly conformed children in mature
age, would be the result of "the opposite practice
in youth. For this reason, women in all countries
wear larger and lighter vestments than men.

Women in this condition should wear nothing
that can exercise the slightest compression on any
one part of the body.

If constriction of the chest disposes females to
irritations of the lungs, and leads to phthisis, &e.,
this effect Will be much more rapidly produced
during pregnancy, When the organs of the abdo-
men being pressed against the lungs, diminish the
expansion of the upper cavity and produce difﬁ-
culty of respiration. The pressure of clothing

 

 

 

326 DRESS.

over the chest produces either inﬂammatory swel-
ling, 0r wasting away of the breast. It produces
also imperfect secretion of milk, with all the
inconveniences which thence result both to the
mother and child. It may give rise to fatal hemor—
rhages and apoplexy.

Pressure of the clothes upon the abdomen is not
less pernicious : it either forces the inferior organs
to follow in their development a vertical direction,
and leads to all the accidents of which we have
spoken, or opposes the development and growth
of the infant, and may even cause abortion.

Malformations of the infant, club feet, 01' twisted
feet, are often occasioned, like the generality of
defects, by the tight lacing to Which the mother
has recourse, in order to conceal her pregnancy.

Such are the results of corsets and busks!
These whims of misplaced vanity ought to be sa—
criﬁced by a good mother to more sacred duties,
to the interests of her infant. 7

After all this, can we wonder that a clever wri-
ter should say, “ In times past, we were ignorant
enough to admire, like 081' neighbours, slender
waists; but thanks to our medical friend, we are
cured of this folly. We were wont to think that
the loves and the graces played round such deli-
cate forms; but in future we shall never see them
without thinking of twisted bones, dropsy, con—
sumption, indurated livers, fainting, spitting 0f

3

 

KlNDS OF CINCTURES, CORSETS, &c. 327

blood, melancholy, hysteria, sour tempers, difﬁcult
labours, rickety children, pills, lotions, and doctors’
bills.

It would occupy a volume, if we were to relate
all the consequences Which have been produced by
stays; but we must limit ourselves to pointing out
What is least injurious in an article essentially bad.

KINDS OF CINCTURES, CORSETS, ETC.

As the simplest object of the former kind, the
mere devices to cover and support the bosom in
modern times may be noticed.

On this subject Raynal, in his work upon the
commerce of the two Indies, has given us a few
pages. Speaking of the charms, ornaments, and
dances of the priestesses of Brahma, “Rien
n’égale 1e soin qu’elles apportent éla conservation
de leur sein. Pour l’empécher de grossir ou de
se déformer, elles l’enferment dans deuX étuis
d’un bois trés—léger, joints ensemble, et bouclés
par derriére. Ces étuis sont si polis et si souples,
qu’ils se prétent :5 tous les mouvemens du corps,
sans aplatir, sans offenser le tissu délicat de la
peau. Le dehors de ces étuis est revétu d’une
feuille d’or, parsemée de points brillants. C’est
sans contredit, (adds the grave writer,) la parure
la plus recherchée, la plus chere 211a beauté, et ce

‘ “W

.-V...‘.._.._.. ~*L___‘-\_._‘4-"

 

 

 

 

328 DRESS.

voile qui couvre 1e sein sans en cacher les palpi-
tations, les molles ondulations, n’ote rien a la
volupté.”

It is not altogether improbable that the use,
at night, of a Cincture of ﬂexible cloth, Which
would support the breast Without weakening it,
or altering its position, might be useful in
its preservation. What strengthens this opinion
is that, if we may believe more recent accounts
than those of Raynal, not only the Bayaderes,
but also the greater part of the Indian women,
use preservatives of this description, made not of
elastic wood, but of a stuff woven from the very
ﬁne bark of a tree in Madagascar. So salutary,
we are told, is this custom, that these deen
preserve the beauty of the bosom to a very
advanced age.

A Cincture, however, formed with this view,
and known under the name of the girdle of Venus,
was, owing perhaps to faulty contrivance, pro-
ductive only of injurious effects.

We know, indeed, that What are technically
called Slings, are of great utility in supporting
the breast, Where pain occurs previous to accouche—
ment, or subsequently, from milk being too abun-
dant. The pressure of the bands by Which they
are attached, is not, however, Without inconve-

‘ nience.
A Cincture-corset, With holes for the arms, and

 

KINDS OF CINCTURES, CORSETS, &c. 329

belts Which cross behind and fasten before, gives
pain by the limited pressure of the latter, and it
injures the muscles of the shoulders.

The Corset Without shoulder—straps is very apt
to alter its position.

But to speak of those Which are truly useful,— a
valuable Corset for Growing Girls has been
invented by Mrs. Huntley, staymaker to the
Queen, 294, Upper Regent Street, by far the
most ingenious and skilful stay-maker known
to the writer. By being elastic in front, it yields
to all the motions of the body; and by exerting
no pressure on the edges of the hip, or, more
correctly, the hanch bones, it does not (by forcing
these edges to grow inwards,) diminish, during
youth, the cavity of the pelvis, or hazard the suf-
fering Which must attend that malformation in
mothers.

Demi-corsetsfor t/ze Morning are made about
eight or ten inches in height, furnished here and
there With light Whalebones. In other respects,
they are of the form of the upper part of the com-
mon corset; but the back edge ends in two long
ﬂaps, Which are fastened in front by means of a
tape. They are made by Mrs. Huntley, with as
many as possible of the advantages of her more
complete corset, Which must next be noticed.

The proper object of lee Complete Corset
should evidently be, gently to support the ﬁgure,

 

 

 

 

330 DRESS.

Without diminishing the freedom of motion, and
to conceal the size of the abdomen When it
becomes disproportionately large, either from
corpulence or from accidents Which naturally
occur.

This portion of clothing, therefore, should never
be so tight as to impede the free action of the
muscles, or of the organs of the chest and abdo-
men. Every corset that does so is injurious. Free—
dom and grace of motion can never exist When
any part of the body is painfully compressed.

A little consideration of the shape Will show
that, in the back of the stays, extension through—
out is chieﬂy wanted; in the front, extension
throughout, and pressure inferiorly perhaps; and
on the sides, extension throughout, slight pressure
or support above, toward the bosom perhaps, and
adaptation 0r pliability chieﬂy in the middle and
below.

The extension throughout the back should, for
meagre persons, be produced by two pliant whale-
bones, or, for plumper persons, by two thin steels;
for Where the former are applied to a great variety
of contour, they are apt to press painfully upon
the skin.*

The extension throughout the front, and the

* “ Under these circumstances,” says aFrench writer, “ when the

bones are not straight, wear the corset the wrong side outwards for
some days! that will sufﬁce to put them in shape 1”

 

KINDS OF CINCTURES, CORSETS, &c. 331

pressure, if necessary, to repress any prominence
inferiorly, should be produced by a tempered steel
of about an inch and a half Wide, bent inward in
a semicircular form, and sufﬁciently long to
extend over the prominence.

Persons Whose breasts are close may wear,
inside the corset, at the upper extremity of the
pocket of the husk, a piece of cotton wadding
covered With White kid, to prevent the disagreeable
chaﬁng Which the corners of the busk may pro-
duce: but it must be remembered that this adds
to the thickness, and consequently to the pressure,
and it should not, therefore, be unnecessarily 0r
carelessly done. At the other end of the busk,
may be placed a ﬂat wadding.

The extension, support and pliability on the
sides, may have somewhat varied means, according
to the form of the individual. In many cases,
about an inch and a half below the arm, in the
middle, may be a double Whalebone or steel, about
ﬁve inches long, to prevent disagreeable folds
on the side.

The great fault of the common stays is, that
though extended and supported both before and
behind, they want both extension and support
on the sides. They consequently fall into creases;
the sides are fretted; and the corset soon loses its
shape.

Corsets should support the breasts Without

 

 

 

 

332 DRESS.

hurting or displacing them. The breast is far
more beautiful in its natural position, than when
pushed up and compressed in the mode so
foolishly adopted by many women.

In forming the gores for this purpose, the desire
of raising up the breast, and giving it a conven-
tional beauty, must never lead to the making
these too short: it deforms the breast; marks it
With long whitish streaks; and the ﬁner and more
delicate the skin, the more it is exposed to these
serious inconveniences.

A11 shoulder-straps should pass over the top of
the shoulders ; and if, instead of being made merely
easy, they are made elastic, they should, I fear, be
always so constructed as to be capable of being,
at pleasure, rendered inelastic, to prevent the back
being sacriﬁced.

With regard to these corsets, Mrs. Huntley has
introduced many remarkable reforms. , They are
now made inﬁnitely lighter than they were lately;
the shoulder—strap is necessarily rising With the
introduction of narrower sleeves 3 and the bosom
is so formed as no longer to press injuriously upon
the breast as to form a crease above it. In short,
there is no resource of experience, ingenuity and
skill, Which this able woman does not cleverly and
indefatigably employ.—Her corsets, constructed
on these principles, are preservative at once of
health and beauty, and are indispensable to dress.

 

PADDINGS AND COMPRESSES. 333

Mrs. Huntley’s Corsets for Pregnant Ladies are
constructed on the same general principles; but
they are rendered perfectly elastic and void of all
disagreeable 0r inexpedient pressure.

Besides the corsets Which have now been des—
cribed, namely, the corset for young and growing
persons, the demi—corset for undress, and the more
complete and perfect corset, various others, now
qf little or no importance, may be mentioned:
as the stiff stays, Which still linger among elderly
persons, and those younger ones in Whom defor-
mity and the ruin of constitution, produced by
their use of late years, have rendered it difﬁcult
to lay them aside; the easily laced corset, Which
might rather be called the never laced corset, in
which many shorter laces on each side, being
attached to one tape, are all pulled at once, but in
Which the numerous strings get mixed and en—
tangled in such a manner that it requires much
time and patience to rearrange them, besides fre—
quently breaking, and by their excessive pressure
always fretting the side; the corset With pullies,
Which is never in repair; and the corset With double
rods, Which is less complicated, and might per-
haps be rendered useful, if stiff stays should ever
again be introduced.

 

 

 

 

334

SECTION III.

PADDINGS AND COMPRESSES.—~GENERAL.

There is no method of remedying the defect, for
so we may term it, either of a very lofty or very
short stature. Very tall persons generally appear
stiﬁ", awkward and ungraceful: they should there-
fore endeavour to acquire the opposite qualities
by adopting an easy and graceful carriage, and, by
sinking the body Without stooping, should dimi—
nish as much as possible the appearance of eX—
treme heightﬂ<

Persons Who are too short should endeavour to
keep the body as upright as possible, carefully
avoiding any appearance of stiffness; for stiffness
is not only always awkward, but, in short persons,
creates an impression of pertness and conceit.T

Many persons endeavour, in the arrangement of
their toilet, to increase their size by aid of a con—
siderable quantity of drapery. Size does in effect
give a sort of dignity and majesty to the ﬁgure;
but this may be carried to an excess, as in the

3* A very tall person looks best in an apartment with a lofty
ceiling.

1' A very short person is seen to the greatest advantage in a
room With a low ceiling.

 

DRESS. 335

extreme enlargement of the hips by means of mon—
strous bustles, than Which nothing can be more
ridiculous, not to say indecent.

In endeavouring to increase the natural dimen—
sions of the body by the arrangement of dress,
it must never be forgotten, that the primary ob-
ject of every description of dress is to present an
accurate and well deﬁned outline of the general
ﬁgure.*

FOR THE CHEST.

Minor defects of conformation, though they
cannot be removed, may by skill be disguised to a
certain extent, and rendered less disagreeable t0
the observer.

Without being accused of that ridiculous and
absurd coquetry Which demands of art those
graces Which nature has refused, it is allowable
for all persons to endeavour to conceal any physi-
cal defects or deformities to Which they are unfor—
tunately subject. Putting a little wadding into
the stays to conceal any irregularity in the shape,
is not perhaps more reprehensible than a sick per—

“ Small persons, of a slender shape, appear to the greatest
advantage in small drawing—rooms, cabinets, or b0udoirs.—St0ut
persons, on the contrary, appear still stouter in these smaller
apartments.

 

 

 

336 DRESS.

son’s sending for a physician. What are all the
degrees of malconformation but inﬁrmities? More—
over, respect for the feelings of those around us
demands their rectiﬁcation.

A11 skilful stay—makers, habit-makers, and dress-
makers, accordingly, can pad corsets, cinctures,
petticoats and dresses, in such a manner as to ﬁll
up any sinking in of the breast, back and. sides,
and raise them to a level With the more elevated
parts.

As corsets of this kind must be made to order,
the best mode is to have a plaster-cast taken of the
bust and sent to the corset-maker, Who Will thus
be enabled to examine the defects and remedy
them more easily.

The defects of the ﬁgure are then obviated by
a wadding of wool, hair, or scrapings of whale
bone, stuffed, quilted like the collars 0r facings of
coats, and diminishing gradually towards the
edges. These corsets may be so well made, that
their use cannot be conjectured even While look-
ing at the particular part.

If instead of a falling in, the deformity of the
shape be a prominence, the parts adjoining are
padded ﬁrst to the same size, and then lessened
insensibly, at a distance, so that the lining may
be cut off Without inconvenience.

If the prominence, however, be very large, the
whole corset is padded, because otherwise the

 

THE BUSTLE, TOURNURE, Ste. 337

shape would be much higher on one side than the
other.

FOR THE SHOULDER, ARMPIT, BOSOM.

Most ladies Who are in the habit of sewing
and embroidering, have the right shoulder more
projecting than the left. In this case, the corset
may be alittle thickened, by placing a padding
even With the ﬁrst eilet—holes 0f the opposite side.
This is covered With a piece of cambric; and a
similar piece of cambric is then placed on the other
side. This appears as if used to prevent the pres—
sure of the Whalebones; and the corset is seen, if
necessary, without fear.

The armpit is sometimes so hollow, that it does
not present a straight line With the waist. This
line is however indispensable ; and, to reestablish itJ
the part under the arm is padded.

Another anomaly is the existence of a French
bosom on a beautiful and feminine bust. For
this defect, there is no remedy, except by padding
the front of the corset 0r 0f the corsage, or by the
less excusable substitution of a false bosom, Which
the corset—makers prepare.

THE BUSTLE, TOURNURE, &c.

When the bust is too long, the defect is con—
cealed by the fulness of the petticoats, supported
by a small bustle behind. Nothing, however, can

be in worse taste than the monstrous and iiI—shaped
Q

 

 

 

 

338 DRESS.

bustles we commonly see, sometimes placed alto—
gether on one side, and sometimes so irregular
that they look as if some domestic utensil were
fastened under the dress.

French women have a much better contrivance,
Which they call a tournure. The tournure is a
handkerchief, drawn by the end through the stay-
lace at the waistband. It raises up the folds of
the dress, makes them fall With elegance, and
diminishes, in summer, the necessity of wearing
a number of muslin petticoats.

By way of giving a ﬁnish to the style and
arrangement of the dress, the robe is then drawn
a little on one side, pressed down on the hips with
the back of the hands, and the tips of the ﬁngers
are passed several times through the folds behind.

FOR THE ARM.

There is nothing more pleasing, nothing more
charming, than a well-shaped beautiful arm 5 but at
the same time, there is nothing so rare, and the
numerous defects Which disﬁgure it are not of a
nature to admit of cure, except by exercise, and
especially by the continued practice of the Indian
Exercise recommended by Mr. Donald Walker, in
his “Exercises for Ladies,”‘ and so strongly
recommended by Dr. Birkbeck, Dr. Copland, Mr.
Coulson, &c. All we can do under this head is
to point out alleviations.

 

FOR EFFECTS OF PREGNANCY. 389

The arm is frequently thin and too small in
proportion to the body; and still more frequently,
When its size is proportionate, the arm is ﬂat and
ﬂeshless, and the veins are Visible. In either case,
the arm should not be exposed more than can be
avoided. It is not, however, to be concealed that
many persons, under the sleeves of the dress,
wear skin-coloured sleeves, wadded or padded
so as to render the arm of the necessary dimen—
sions; and the padding is doubled, to conceal the
elbow if it be too sharp.

FOR EFFECTS OF PREGNANCY.

In many women, from the effects of lying in, or _

other causes, the abdomen becomes so low and
protruding, that the corset’is unable to support
it. To obviate this inconvenience, cinctures of
the height of eight inches or a” foot, have been
made of metallic elastics, cut in such a form as to
case the abdomen entirely, and to support and
repress it as much as possible. This cincture is
born under the corset.

Trousers, rather tight, supported by elastic
bands buttoned to the corset, are suitable for
women of a very delicate constitution, Who
ﬁnd a difﬁculty in walking}, for those Who lose
elasticity, and for those Who are disposed to
excessive plumpness.

After an accouchement, When the veins, being

0. 2

 

 

3&0 DRESS.

too full and without reaction, rise upon the
surface, and thus produce some deformity, these
trousers are especially useful. They should be
laced up the sides, for the purpose of gradually
increasing the compression, and must be ﬁxed
to the stays.

The clothes of the recently delivered female
may also be arranged, so as to preserve the beauty
of the shape. In all the islands of the Archipelage,
they attain this end by means of a compression
somewhat tight, Which, we are told, has never been
found to produce any injurious effect. M. Sonnini
thus describes this custom.

“ Immediately after delivery, the woman is
tightly swathed With a large band of linen cloth,
from the breast to the loins. Philosophical theory
may have revealed the dangers of this custom;
but this is of little consequence to the Greek
women, who“ appear to support the compression
of the band With Which they are encircled With
as much impunity as they do the shocks of par»
turition. On the contrary, they enjoy the advam
tage of preserving their fine shapes, Which women
of other countries may well envy them; and they
remedy the excessive swelling of the abdomen, 01",
What is still more disagreeable, the numerous deep
wrinkles or streaks that furrow the skin.”

Upon this principle, the bed-belt is now 0011-»
structed by Mrs. Huntley.

 

PETTICOATS. 341

In all such cases, the breast is carefully guarded.
T0 compress it tightly, or to cover it With astrin-
gent substances, in the idea of preserving the
shape, and preventing its expanding at the period
of the flow of the milk, is a practice the condem-
nation of Which IS universal.

SECTION IV.

PETTICOATS.

Petticoats should not have shoulder-straps,
because being placed over the straps of the corset,
the pressure would be painful, and the appearance
ugly. Bodies, therefore, are now always attached
to them. The bodies are always made as plainas
possible 5 and the skirts are not sloped, but equally
full above and below, and equally ﬁlled—in all round.

Ladies ought to have their petticoat bodies
made to the same, or rather to a smaller measure
than the bands of their dresses, in order to allow
to the latter an opportunity of ﬁtting.

The Wide ﬂowing petticoat skirts Which women
wear, are generally sufﬁcient to conceal any slight
deformities in the shape of the limbs. The exis—
tence of such defects can then be surmised only
from their style of walking, Which requires great
attention.

 

 

 

342

SECTION V.

STOCKINGS, &0.

Very white ﬁne stockings, and shoes made
exactly to the shape, ought to delineate perfectly
the leg and the foot; but, in this, as in every thing
else, we must be careful not_to sacriﬁce ease and
health, to beauty.

If we wear thin stockings, or prunella or kid
shoes, in winter, we must expect that the
natural state of the functions will be seriously
disordered at particular times, and’ the chest
severely at all times. How many headaches,
rheumatic pains, and even consumptions, have
arisen from nothing else than cold and dampness
affecting the feet, in consequence‘of the stockings
being too transparent, and the soles of the shoes
too narrow and too thin.

It is absurd to imagine that worsted stockings
0r ﬂannel socks are necessary, in a state of health,
to prevent sore throat and catarrhs. Those most
exposed to these maladies are, on the contrary,
persons, who, from bad habits, have already
rendered those means necessary, which ought to
be preserved as a resource in illness.

Black stockings in winter, except in mourning,
are in bad taste, unless the gown be black, and
then the stockings should, of course, be of silk.

 

GARTERS. 343

Stockings should ﬁt the foot exactly; for if they
are toolong in the feet, the end of the toe must be
turned down under the sole, Which is not only
extremely painful, but increases the size of the foot.
Besides, such stockings crease under the instep,
and deprive it of all beauty. I

If the stockings are too short, they compress
the toes, and make them appear awry. If they are
too narrow, they fret the skin of the instep, make it
red, and produce marks Which are Visible through
the openwork.—-It is needless to add, that stock—
ings undergoing a continued straining, wear out
sooner than others.

A piece of narrow White ribbon may be placed
along the seams of stockings, to prevent the
breaking of the stitches in drawing them on.
Care, however, must be taken, that this do not
appear.

GARTERS.

Both the materials of Which garters are made,
and the part where they are worn, are of conse—
quence.

Garters of ribbon sit well, but press too
much, and impede the circulation. Woollen
garters With sliding knots, irritate the skin, and if
the stockings be ﬁne and the skin delicate, pro-
duce very unpleasant effects.

Garters Which require tying, ought to be loosely

 

 

 

 

 

314 DRESS.

tied, and if possible above the knee: in that part,
they impede less the return of the blood, because
the vessels are protected by more numerous
parts. .
If the calf of the leg is slender, and the knee
small, two garters may be worn; one above, and
the other below.

Garters, when not elastic, and worn habitually
too tight, produce varicose veins, and, With some
people, swelling of the feet and inferior parts
of the legs. Their pressure becomes still more
injurious during pregnancy.

Elastic garters are greatly to be preferred.

Some ladies attach two triangular pieces of
elastic material to the straight edge of the gus-
sets, at the lower part of the corset; and, from
each of these, descend two tapes, Which, passing
through a loop of tape attached to each of the
stockings, render garters unnecessary.

If this excellent plan is adopted, it is necessary
to furnish all the stockings, on the right and left,
With a loop of tape. Strictly, indeed, only one
loop is required to each stocking; but then if a
mistake is made in putting on, and the loop-hole
happens to be put inside, it becomes necessary to
begin again.

 

345

SUPERADDED AND MORE VARIABLE ARTICLES.

SECTION VI.
GOWNS OR DRESSES, GENERALLY CONSIDERED.

The shape of the gown, although of less con-
equence than the shape of the stays, demands the
utmost attention.

It is in speaking of this important article, that
I ought to recommend Miss Morris, No. 20] ,
Regent Street, to every lady Who desires to have
the guidance or the services of a person Who is
eminently enlightened as to the principles of dress,
and can advantageously apply them to all forms,
features and complexions.

THE DRESS-MAKER.

In choosing a dress-maker for plain dresses, do
not select the most fashionable; for she charges
very dear, makes you wait long, and as she cannot
attend to all, she intrusts the greater part of her
work to hands far less skilful than the mantua-
makers whom you have neglected for her. Select
the moat docile, and the most careful, and do not
change if you can avoid it.

Whatever interest the mantua—maker may have
in ﬁtting you well, it must always be less than
your own. Thus, Whenever she has made a
mistake, she has abundance of reasons to oppose

Q 3

 

 

 

 

346 DRESS.

to your observations, and to save herself the
trouble of beginning again. Sometimes, it is the
fashion ; sometimes, the infallible consequence of
the cut; and sometimes (though rarely through
fear of making you angry) it is the peculiarity of
your shape: in a general way, it is a ﬂat denial.
All this is exceedingly disagreeable; and if you
are of an easy character, or unable to make your
own dresses, you run the risk of being ill dressed.
With an attentive dress-maker, these objections
and inconveniences do not occur.

In selecting a dress-maker for dresses of a more
decorated kind and more expensive material,
choose no longer the person Who sews the best,
for solidity is but a secondary consideration.
Choose her Who is best acquainted With the
inﬂuence of the forms and colours of dress upon the
features and complexion, as explained in this work.
When you have made choice of a gown, consult
such a dress-maker; but, if you possess know-
ledge, do not resign yourself entirely to her taste.

THE MATERiAL AND STYLE.

If the material for the gown be of a large striped
pattern, the wearer should direct the arrange-
ment of it in the body and pelerine. “The stripes
should. be so arranged as to cross one another,
that is, to join in forming a perfect or a trun-
cated pyramid or cone. It may require more

 

OPEN AND HIGH DRESSES. 347

materials, but this must be regarded as a secondary
object.—In a ﬂower pattern, all the heads should
be upwards.

The style of the gown ought to correspond
With the object and nature of the dress.

A very simple shape is frequently suitable to full
dress gowns, andvery rich materials 3 While an orna—
mented and draped morning gown of gingham,
or some such material, would be inconvenient and
ridiculous. Thus simplicityis generally preferable.

OPEN AND HIGH DRESSES.

A morning or common dress should be made
open in front, and high in the neck, for the con-
venience of changing quickly.

In such a dress, in order to avoid fastening the
two breadths one over the other, from top to bot-
tom, they may, for about two thirds of their length
from the bottom, be sewed one over the other, and
the remaining third may be left unsewn, for the
purpose of putting on the gown easily. ,

This method may be applied advantageously to
all kinds of robes open in front, whether of thick
material or not. It prevents the front opening
below, Which it Will always do if fastened in any
other way 3 and it keeps it cleaner, because there is
less occasion to touch it, Which is of consequence
in gowns of delicate materials fastened with bows
of ribbon.

 

 

 

 

 

 

348 DRESS.

The trimming of a gown open in front is always
plain, however elegant it may be.

Sometimes the front of a round dress is embroid—
ered to give it the appearance 01 opening in front.

HALF-DRESS GOVVNS, OR ROUND DRESSES.

Half—dress gowns, such as printed muslins,
ﬁne merinos, &c. are generally made as round
dresses. The body is generally high, and neces-
sarily fastened behind.

There is, however, a method of having, at the
same time, the body a little off the neck, fastened
behind, and a highbody fastened altogether in front.
Nothing can be more simple or more convenient.

The robe is made in the general way With the
body low. A high open dress body is then made
of similar materials, and like any other body, only
Without sleeves, and the arm-hole is trimmed with
a narrow lace edging.

If you Wish to be warm, or to vary the dress,
pass the second body over the ﬁrst. The arm-
hole edged With lace is round the arm—hole of the
sleeves Which seem fastened to it 3 the waistband
upon Which the second body is attached, ﬁts well
over the ﬁrst; and in no respect do you remark
that this body is not fastened to the robe.

Many ladies constantly separate the body from
the skirt. This is proper only When the body
fastens behind.

 

34.9

HALF—HIGH AND VERY LOW DRESSES.

Half—high dresses, such as are sometimes worn
upon the edge of the clavicles 01‘ collar—bones,
are very unbecoming: they are either too low,
or not sufﬁciently so; the shoulders appear
straitened; the bosom tightened; and the neck,
uncovered to the bottom, loses all that agreeable
contour, Which is Visible When the dress is open
to a little above the bosom: in the latter, the edge
of the body must invariably be trimmed.

Dresses very low on the bosom, With the round
part of the shoulder exposed, are proofs of
coquetry and in very bad taste. The sleeves
should never appear to be falling off the arms.
Such dresses expose the proj ection 0f the shoulder-
blade, injure the beauty of the bosom, and make
the waist appear clumsy. The shoulders will
have sufﬁcient Width by placing the shoulder—
straps on the edge of the shoulders.

FULL-DRESS NOTICED GENERALLY.

Full—dress, low on the shoulders, and leaving
the arms bare, is not worn at dinner, on ordinary
evenings, or at public places.

In delicate persons, especially during winter,
the fore—part 0f the arm should be kept warm,
even in full—dress, as one means of preventing

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

350 DRESS.

pains in the chest. For this purpose, elastic
skin-coloured silk sleeves may be worn under
sleeves of ﬁne gauze.

When a lady has a long thin arm, she Will
also do well to wear, over those of her dress,
gauze, crape, or lace sleeves, made close to the
wrist, and clasped With rich bracelets. They Will
entirely remove the unpleasant idea of leanness,
Which might arise from her arms being exposed,
and which no glove can Wholly obviate; and they
Will not fail to add to the delicacy of her skin, as
well as to give that apparent fulness, which the
eye requires.

Wristbands and bracelets should be very large,
so as not to impede the circulation of the blood.
If there is difﬁculty in fastening them, the arm
Will grow red, feel uneasy, and lose its beauty.

TRIMMINGS.

Nothing is more improper for half—dress gowns
than those excessive trimmings Which rise as
high as the knee, and frequently higher. The
gown loses its elegance and lightness: it appears
heavy, stiff, and ceases to hang gracefully.

Tall women occasionally 100k well in such trim-
mings, even When loaded With ornament, especially
in full-dress; but little women, or even those of
the middle size, are exceedingly disﬁgured by any
trimming that extends more than from six to ten

 

TRIMMINGS. 351

inches, according to stature, above the hem of the
petticoat.

A long waisted, befurbelowed, short person,
hewever pretty her face, and however faultless her
shape, has an air of the ridiculous and the vulgar
thrown over her, Which neither her rank nor the
elegance of her manners can Wholly obliterate.

Generally, also, this mode of dress adds appa—
rently much to the age of such a person. This
adoption of a bad style is, in her case, more to be
lamented, because a small slight woman may
preserve an appearance of youth to the verge of
old age 3 and, by a due attention to the person,
can, Without any improper aﬁ'ectation ofjuvenility,
adopt those dresses Which are generally appro-
priated by the young 'only.

Full—dress, it is true, requires deep trimmings,
but not ridiculously so ; anti certainly those
which reach almost to the hips, deserve this
appellation.

Bands of watered ribbon, of plaid, 0r of different
patterns, are never worn in full-dress. Gauze
ribbon, and satin ribbon are alone admissible.

Where the bust is ﬁnely formed, and Where the
shoulder is handsome, and falls beautifully, any
close ﬁtting line of trimming has a very happy
effect, and may be followed by lace if necessary,
for completing the dress. This marked line must
never be ventured on, When the shoulder is high,

5

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

352 DRESS.

or the chest contracted, even When the clearness
of skin offers a temptation for exhibiting its pre—
eminent delicacy by means of contrast.

Bodies made very low, and draped With material
similar to the dress or the trimming, these trim-
mings abundant,&c. are suitable for full—dress robes.

Real blonde trimmings, are too expensive for
the majority of persons, and though the manu—
facture of English blonde has arrived at such per-
fection that the difference is scarcely perceptible,
yet it does not admit of being washed. Silk tulle
embroidered in silk or cotton is, therefore, generally
substituted for these.

The bows, With Which the collerettes, waist—
bands, reticules, and other accessories of dress, are
fastened, should be suited to the degree of dress,
and t0 the season. Highly ornamented bows, and
gilt reticules, are ridiculous in undress; and bows,
girdles, or bags of velvet or satin, should never be
worn in summer.

PECULIARITIES OF SHAPE, &c.

Many peculiarities must depend upon fashion;
but still more on the style of the ﬁgure.
, Tall thin women may wear a great deal of
clothing, or loose ﬂowing drapery, bright coloured
dresses of silk, and several rows of trimming;
Whilst short stout women Will appear to the

 

PECULIARITIES 0F SHAPE, &c. 353.

greatest advantage in dark coloured gowns close
to the shape of the body, and merely easy'in the
skirt, With very little trimming, &c.

Apparent Width may be given to narrow shoul-
ders, by having the epaulettes of the dress, When
epaulettes are worn, very full on the extremity of
the shoulders, and the bosom and back of the
dress running in oblique folds, from the point of
the shoulder to the middle of the bust.

It has already been observed, that the taste for
narrowing the waist exists chieﬂy in the western
nations. It extends even across the Atlantic, as
may be seen from the South American ﬁgures in
the British Museum. Throughout much of this
vast space, a long small waist appears to be the
great desideratum; and it is obtained by so
drawing up the body that one round unvarying
line alone is presented to the eye. The ﬁne ﬂat
shoulder and hollow back, Which so many beautiful
female forms present, are then entirely lost, and
health is ruined.

A waist Which is neither long nor short, neither
compressed unnaturally above nor below, Will
always be most agreeable to the enlightened and
cultivated eye; While it Will, at the same time, give
the power of adjusting the dress in the most
graceful manner. On such at waist, dresses dis-
posed in the stomacher form may be very happily
adopted, or the full plaitings 0f the blouze dis-

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

354 DRESS. ‘

posed to advantage. In either case, if the waist
is but even a little too long, the line of beauty is
lost, and that loss Will not be compensated by the
mere circumstance of being. slender.

A long waist is unbecoming to a short ﬁgure,
Where the bosom is small 5 but Where there exists
considerable plumpness and fulness, the waist
should have its natural length.

If the hips are large and high, the body of the
dress should be long, Whatever the stature. But
in no case does it answer any purpose to extend
the waist beyond the line of ' the hanches; for they
always bring it back to their own level.

By wearing the dress full at the shoulders and
at the hips, the waist Will by contrast appear smal-
ler; and this is a much better plan than tight lacing.

If the waist still appear thick, a stomacher in
front Will further relieve it ; and, behind, the dress
may be plain and Wide across the shoulders, and
drawn in gathers to a narrow point at the bottom
of the waist.—See Plate VII. Where, though the
waist is not naturally too thick, it is further
reduced by such means.*

Those Who have the bosom too small, may
enlarge it by the oblique folds of the dress being
gathered above, &c.

If the bosom is either too small or too full, the

* Owing to a change in the order of the letter-press, Plates V
and VI follow Plates VII and VIII. ‘

 

 

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PECULIARITIES 0F SHAPE, &c. 355

defect may be further remedied by the arrange-
ment of drapery.

Those Who have the lower posterior part of the
body too ﬂat, may elevate it by the top of the skirt
being gathered behind, by a tournure, &c.

Those Who have the lower part of the body too
prominent anteriorly, may render it. less apparent
by shortening the waist, by a corresponding pro-
jection behind, and by increasing the bosom above.

Those Who have the hanches too narrow,
should not have the bottom of the dress too Wide.

Tall women may have a Wide skirt, or much]
trimming, or both of these. Those Who are also
slender must have similar fulness.

Shorter women may have a moderate skirt, With
the trimmings, &c. as few and as low as possible.—
See Plate VIII, Where such a person is rendered
shorter and thicker by a Wide skirt and several
ﬂounces.

Corpulent persons ought to wear the skirt easy.

A thin arm, and large skinny hands, require
long sleeves. ’

Sometimes the shape and form of the arm is
perfect, but the skin of such a colour that the
possessor cannot venture to expose it in society»
Under this annoyance, recourse must be had to
glove-sleeves of thick skin-coloured crape, or light
taffety, Which may be worn under a dress of
transparent materials.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

3'56 DRESS.

Nothing is more disagreeable t0 the eye than a
red hand, and for this reason sleeves should never
be too tight at the wrists.

TRYING-ON.

Trying on a dress, is avery tiresome but neces-
sary obligation, where either foreign dress—makers
or the inferior English ones are employed; and
indeed, in such cases, while it is merely basted
together, it must be tried on several times, and
altered till it exactly ﬁts the ﬁgure.

While the dress is merely basted together, we
cannot, if such persons are employed, render this
scrutiny too minute, if we wish to have nothing,
or almost nothing, to do when it is entirely sewed.
The tiresomeness 0f unsewing, and the fear of
soiling the material, dispose us then to overlook
many defects; and, through previous eagerness to
avoid a few minutes’ trouble, we are annoyed as
long as the dress lasts.

The parts of the dress that most require atten-
tion, are the part below the arm, the front of the
body, and the cut of the front of the skirt, if the
dress be gored as formerly, so that it may sit well
upon the hips. The side folds of the skirt must
be regular, and fall with elegance. But these are
only accessories: the body of the dress, especially
if tight, requires most attention.

HEAD-DRESSES. 357

In working a body of this description, there is
some trouble in adjusting the anterior part of the
arm-hole, When sufﬁcient Width is allowed in front
to shew the shape of the bosom. French dress-
makers, generally speaking, care very little about
rendering one ﬂat in front, by hollowing very
little the folds that they form under the bosom,
and by making the front as little as possible, in
conformity with the absence and consequent
mzfashz'onableness 0f bosoms in France. It is very
necessary, therefore; to attend to this, particularly
in the case of an under—robe, such as silk or White
satin; for otherwise we are much surprised to ﬁnd
the bosom sinking, and the body producing the
effect of a chemisette.

These precautions are not necessary With the
superior English dress—maker; and it is well to
avoid them When that can be done, for frequent
trying injures the dress by stretching, &c.

SECTION VII.
HEAD—DRESSES.

Madame Necker says, “Ii faut én'e cog'ﬂ'ée et
vétue simplemeut, quand 0n est julie, pom" avoir

plus (26 gréces; et quand 0n est Zaide, pour ét7‘e
mains aide.”

 

 

358 DRESS.

Caps, after marriage, are often worn both
morning and evening; and When their materials
are transparent, When their form is well adapted to
the form of the face, and When they are gracefully
inclined, their effect is often excellent.

Morning caps may be of rich materials, but
should be plain, and little decorated.

Every woman looks pretty in a light lace frill
carried behind the ears; and a lace handkerchief
placed amid clustering curls 0n the top of the head,
With the corners brought forward, and carelessly
tied together under the chin, is, in ninety—nine
cases out of a hundred, the most beautiful and
becoming coiﬁ'ure that has ever been imagined,
especially when there are ﬂowers or pearls in front.

The veil, When it can be worn, affords the most
simple and elegant of all head—dresses. The loose,
easy, and ﬂowing folds in Which it falls from the
head, are extremely beautiful, and. contrast well
With the contours of the countenance, While it
gives to the face that smoothness and polish
Which are essential to a high degree of beauty.

To this, the transparent bonnets Which have
prevailed so much of late, more or less approach.

 

 

OTHERS, AND THEIR ADAPTATION.

The turban is a style of head—dress that must
never be assumed, unless it be well adapted to the

 

GENERAL ADAPTATION OF HEAD-DRESSES. 359

style of the face and ﬁgure. A little delicate
woman, Whose round, open and joyous coun-
tenance seems suited to a gipsy hat, would be
literally crushed under a turban 0f cashmere,
adorned With diamonds.

Rich turbans are becoming to females of a lofty
statute, and of regular, handsome, or even strong
features. A crescent in the middle of the forehead,
the glittering of diamonds, and the waving 0f
plumes, combine to give to the turban a dignity
Which contrasts strongly With simple elegance.

The Scottish bonnet seems to suit youth alone;
and, unless there is a mixture of archness and of
simplicity in the countenance, it has a theatrical
and bold air.

Small hats tied on one side, With plumes of
feathers, form a pretty head-dress When they can
be adopted; and they constitute one of those Which
retain the character of youth, While they furnish
the covering required by maturity.

Hats, however, have always more or less of a
masculine 100k; and, turned up in front, have a
pert and coquettish air.

GENERAL ADAPTATION OF HEAD-DRESSES.

The diversity of character offered in the form of
the head and the features, points out decidedly the
impracticability of rendering any one covering

 

 

 

 

360 DRESS.

suitable for all, except in cases of large bonnets
worn expressly for the purpose of protection from
the sun and the air.

A long Visaged beauty can rarely adopt the
costume of a Thalia, without entirely losing the
digniﬁed, pensive, and interesting lineaments ofher
countenance; not therebyobtaining the captivating
and piquant air Which frequently belong to a round
face, short chin, and laughing eye, With very far
inferior claims to the praise of beauty. It is the
greater pity this should be attempted, because a
long face can adopt so many modes of dress singu—
larly graceful and elegant, Which are utterly for-
bidden t0 the round face and short neck. Almost
every description of cap is always very becoming
to them; and the long lappet now prevalent,
Which falls on the bosom; forming a kind of veil
0r frame—work t0 the face, Will be found very
eﬂ'ective in giving a picturesque air, suitable alike
in its nun-like modesty and its motherly impor—
tance, t0 the single or married lady. On the other
hand, small satin or gauze hats will be not less-
Valuable to that Hebe countenance, whose “nods,
and becks, and wreathed smiles,” fascinate rather
by the expression of good humour, content, or
archness, than that of intellectual 01' classic beauty.

The women of Cyprus, celebrated for their grace
and beauty, wear a high, plain, drum-like cap of
snowy whiteness, and we have seen turbans of this

. Wumwrvgy-ww» - ~- ~-—-’v*r‘ v

 

w V

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

V

 

IN RELATION TO DEFECTS. 361

description look very well on brunettes of oval—
formed faces. Those turbans, sometimes in
fashion, drawn straightly round their frame and
clasped before, suit them also; but a Highland
beauty, Whose face is broad, or Whose cheek—bones
are high, Will do well to prefer the turban that is
made of full foldings, Which, in some measure,
answer the purpose of a border by their projection,
While at the same time they associate better With
our ideas of Sultana beauty, and give to bright
eyes and brilliant complexions (the national charms
of our more northern Scottish belles)1a11 the advan-
tages they could desire.

IN RELATION TO DEFECTS.

Very tall persons should wear rather low head-
dresses; and very short persons, rather high head—
dresses and the forehead bare.

An oval and narrow face appears to advantage
in a bonnet With a Wide front, so as to expose the
lower part of the cheeks.

A round face requires a narrower front; and if
the lower part of the face is wide, the corner of
the bonnet may be brought sloping to the point of
the chin.—-See Plate V. Where such a face is
improved by the descending head—dress.

Wrinkles may also be concealed by this means,
or by a ribbon brought under the chin.

When the features happen to be large and the

R

   

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

362 DRESS.

complexion ﬂorid: it Will be found generally advan-
tageous to wear caps in preference to the hair only;
for it is surprising how much softness and delicacy
may be communicated by the shade of a broad
blond border, projecting beyond the hair, but not
therefore hiding it.

Avoid extravagantly large head—dresses. The
frame must never be larger than the picture, other—
Wise that which ought to be an accessory becomes
the principal object. It is the same With a head-
dress of too much volume: it buries the face. Too
much elevation and too much breadth of head-dress
are equally ridiculous.

No head-dress should press upon the head ;
1st, because the compression of many nervous
ﬁlaments causes a painful numbness of the scalp;
2d1y, because if the hat be too tight, it prevents
the air from being renovated over the head.

 

{SECTION VIII.

KERCHIEFS, &c.

A. robe of transparent materials requires gene—
rally a chemisette, collar, or pelerine, to be worn.

The chemisette is a kind of open body of
Flemish or Scottish cambric, fastened by the

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

3:35. ;ﬂg}k%§

 

 

 

M
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A
_
,

 

KERCHIEFS, &c. 363

shoulder—strap, and is found very convenient With
a robe 0f crossed drapery. Some of them are
exceedingly elegant and ornamental.

Necklaces, ruches, &c. serve to relieve the
unpleasant effect of along neck. The back of the
bonnet should also come low down the neck, and
the collar of the dress should be worn high and
rather open, and full.

A short neck should have neither necklaces nor
ruches. Sometimes a falling blond trimming may
be of use, by giving an appearance ofgeneral length
or expansion; but persons of such ﬁgure must
carefully avoid Whatever has a tendency to ﬁll up
and contract that Which is already too circum-
scribed. The bonnet, in them, should be short
and close, and the collar of the dress, neither high
nor Wide.—~See Plate VI, Where a short—necked
ﬁgure is destroyed by a large frill.

A neck may rise like a pillar of marble from the
chest, and give to the head its most ﬁnished 0011-
tour, which is yet disﬁgured on the pedestal by
sharp ridges of collar—bones, Which put to ﬂight all
ideas of the loves and graces, supposed to nestle in
such regions.

Projection of the collar—bone is a defect Which
art cannot remedy; but, like other defects in the
form of the neck, it may sometimes be partly con-
cealed by means of a collar, Which, as already said,

will also make a very long neck appear shorter.
R 2

 

 

 

 

 

364 ‘ DRESS.

. In this case, recourse to a necklace is equally
insufﬁcient and unsafe.

Unfortunately the throat of a woman, if it be
one of her most striking charms, is also that Which
most early exhibits the effect of time. It is very
possible, by the mode of dress, to remedy this
defect, Which sometimes (in subjects attenuated by
sickness) annoys even the young.

SECTION IX.

SHAWLS, FURS AND CLOAKS.

The shawl is adapted only for tall and thin
ﬁgures; but it admits of no very striking arrange-
ment or disposition even on them, While it is
ruinous to shorter and plump ﬁgures, however
beautifully formed.

The scarf is better adapted for all ﬁgures: it
corresponds to the pallium of the ancient Grecian
women, and admits of the same expressive arrange-
ments. 1

The shawl and scarf may be worn in manyways;
and, on tall ﬁgures, every fold admits of some
degree of expression.

Furs being aﬁ’airs of luxury, should always be of
the best description and of ample volume.—The
boa, at present in fashion, admits of graceful
adjustment.

 

SHOES. 365

The cloak With hanging sleeves open in front, is
preferable to that Which is Without them, inasmuch
as the latter prevents the free use of the arms in
walking, and by its weight presses them forward,
which is injurious to the expansion of the chest.

 

S ECT ION X.
GLOVES, &c.

Gloves are very useful in preserving the beauty
of the hands, and defending them from the injury
of the air and the sting of insects. Even When
en néglz'gé, no lady can dispense With gloves.

Kid gloves have the most salutary inﬂuence on
the skin. The most elastic are the best. Those
of white or light colour look always most cleanly
and beautiful. They must be thrown aside the
moment they are soiled.

SECTION XI.
SHOES.-—-—THEIR SUBSTANCE.

The covering of the foot has been subjected to
all the changes that Well or ill divised coquetry
could suggest. .

The Greeks wore sandals and purple buskins
ornamented With gold. The Romans ornamented

 

 

i
4

(Erik‘ Airy?

 

 

 

366 DRESS.

their shoes in a similar manner. Seneca
reproached them for walking on pearls; and Lollia
Paulina is said to have worn a tissue of precious
stones for shoes.

Many diseases arise solely from the use of shoes
of very thin materials in wet weather; but no female
Who has the slightest regard for her health, or indeed
for the preservation of her beauty, will object to
Wear shoes thicker than are usually worn, if the
pavement is at any time wet or damp.

Neat cloth slippers are worn in Winter, and
those of patent leather in summer, in morning
dress. Kid slippers are at all times most agreeable,
when the weather and other circumstances permit
their being worn. Those of White kid, silk, and
satin, are appropriated to dress.

THEIR FITTING, &c.

Neatness is the point to be chieﬂy studied as
regards the feet. To ﬁt the feet exactly, the shoes
should be made on separate lasts, and rather longer
than the foot: they then mold themselves to the
shape of the foot and make it appear narrow, a
beauty Which females are very naturally anxious to
exhibit.

In taking the measure for shoes, the shoemaker
should have his attention directed to the shape of
the foot, and the style of shoe Which is most suitable
and becoming to it. If, for instance, the instep be

 

THEIR FITTING, &c. 367

high and the waist of the foot be hollow, the last
should be so constructed that the shoe may adapt
itself to these circumstances.

The front of the shoe should always come above
or higher than the ﬁrst or upper joint of the toes.
If it is lower, the shoe cannot be kept in shape ;
and, by the yielding of the sides, the foot Will appear
Wide and large.

While the front is brought, perhaps, only above
the joint of the toes, the sides of the shoe should
always be rather high; for this not only keeps the
shoe in shape, but diminishes the Width of the foot,
and gives it a long, narrow and more elegant form.

The sole of the shoe should be of due Width
before, moderate at the heel, and narrow and light
in the waist, to permit all the motions of the foot,
and to give freedom and ease to the walk.

From all this, it is evident that a shoe Which may
look well on one kind of foot, may havela frightful
appearance on another. Yet there are many shoe-
makers Who introduce one shape of shoe for nearly
every shape of foot, and Who shelter their own
ignorance, indolence, and incapacity, under the
pretence of fashion!

Square—toed shoes are better adapted to the
shape of the foot than sharp-toed shoes.— The
heels of French shoes are frightful. Being
always large and destitute of neatness, these shoes
look as if running down at the heel, and give the
foot a gouty appearance.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

368 , DRESS.

No shoemaker in London knows his art better
in all these respects, than Orchard, 121, Oxford
Street.

TIGHTNESS IN SHOES.

Ladies are very apt to torture their feet, to make
them appear small. This is exceedingly ridiculous:
a very small foot is a deformity. True beauty of
each part consists in the proportion it bears to the
rest of the body.

A tight or ill—made shoe not only destroys the
shape of the foot, it produces corns and bunions;
and it tends to impede the circulation of the blood.
Besides, the foot then swells and appears larger
than it is, and the ancles become thick and clumsy.

The pernicious effect of tight or ill-made shoes
is evident also in the stiff and tottering gait 0fthese
victims of a foolish prejudice: they can neither
stand upright, walk straight, nor enter a room
properly.

To be too short, is one of the greatest defects a
shoe can have; because it takes away all chance of
yielding in that direction, and offering any compen—
sation for tightness in others, and, in itself, it not
only causes pain and spoils the shape of the
foot by turning down the toes and swelling up the
instep, but is the cause of bad gait and carriage.

Very bright coloured shoes, except in full dress,
are in verybad. taste, and make the foot appear large.

 

BOOTS, CLOGS, AND CORK SOLES. 369

Wearing slippers down at the heel, is a slovenly
habit, exposes the heel to cold, and causes an
unbecoming development of it.

OF THE INNER SOLE.

If the inner sole of the shoe becomes yellow
and hard, it must be taken out and replaced by a
sole of White kid. The White kid of long gloves
Will serve for this purpose. This sole should be
ﬁxed in the shoes with a little paste, spreading a
very little on the bottom of the shoe. If the feet
perspire much, the sole must be frequently
changed.—The same is necessary With boots.

The White kid sole in the interior of the shoe
should be replaced in Winter by a sole of ﬂannel or
other woollen stuff. This is preferable to fur,
which renders the feet too susceptible of cold.

BOOTS, CLOGs, AND CORK SOLES.

Boots are too warm for summer, but are very
serviceable in Winter, or in cold and damp weather,
and protect the legs against the currents of air
that continually circulate about the ancles.

If, however, they are too tight or too closely laced,
the foot swells with the warmth, the leg is
benumbed, and motion soon becomes insufferably

painful.
R 3

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

370 DRESS.

Clogs preserve the feet admirably from damp and
cold. Those made of leather, With a spring in the
middle, are far preferable to any other.

Persons Who ﬁnd the use of clogs fatiguing, will
ﬁnd waterproof cork—soles a very simple and sure
means of preserving the feet from damp.

Cork soles are rendered waterproof by laying
two or three coats of drying linseed oil upon each
side of the sole. (A slight addition of litharge
makes linseed oil drying.) When the sole is quite
dry, it is placed in the shoe, Which, before being
ﬁnished, receives a coating of this oil upon the
inner sole. This coating serves to stop all the
holes made by the aWI. The shoemaker must
place the last, or inner sole, Which is fastened
generally With glue, over the last coating of oil.
The oily body being dry, _the piece is entirely
impervious to damp.

ECONOMY OF SHOES.

It is advisable to buy several pairs of shoes at
the same time, a dozen, for instance: they Will last
longer, because they Will get dry, and we can suit
them to the style of dress.

Shoes that have been worn in the street should
be changed in the house, even if very little soiled.

Directly that shoes lose their shape, they should
be replaced.

 

371

CHAPTER III.

COMPOSITION AND CHARACTER 0F DRESS.

SECTION I.
COMPOSITION.

NIGHT-DRESS.

Neatness and taste should preside over the
toilet of the night, as well as of the day.

Nightcaps should be of embroidered India
muslin or jaconet, With two or three borders of
plain India muslin, edged With Valenciennes lace.
Bands are by some thought indispensable, unless
a scullcap be worn.

The present style of night dress, Which may be
seen at the fashionable outﬁtting warehouses, is
exceedingly neat and pretty.

The neck, during sleep, ought to be free from.
bandages and ligatures of every description.

 

 

 

 

372 DRESS.

MORNING DRESS.

If the hair has been properly plaited at night
(and no female Who values the effect of her charms
Will neglect it), the night-cap may be dispensed
With immediately upon rising; and if domestic
duties occupy a portion of her time during the day,
a cap Will be again worn, to preserve the hair from
the pernicious effect of dust and smoke.

A demi-corset is sufﬁcient to make the clothes
sit well on the person.

Plain dresses are best suited for the morning;
but they must always be very neat and scrupu-
lously clean, for under no circumstances can neat-
ness, cleanliness and regularity be dispensed With.

Peignoirs, as they are termed by the French,
but Which are rather elegant morning dresses, are
made loose from the shoulders, and are conﬁned in
the waist by a sash With bow and ends in front.
When these are required to be more dressy, the
fronts may be thrown back and discover a 10W open
body of the same material over a book—muslin
chemisette.

It is expedient, in the morning, to wear gloves
to preserve the hands from stains, scratches and
corns.

 

ORDINARY DRESS. 373

It is also expedient, in the morning, to wear
slippers, but slippers properly so called, and not
worn-out shoes, to prevent the feet being too much
compressed.

ORDINARY DRESS.

As to the ordinary dress for the day, every lady
should, When at home, be dressed sufﬁciently well
to Visit her friends, Without having to put on any—
thing more than her gloves, shawl and bonnet:
but there must be no ﬁnery 0r affectation. If the
dress be too much ornamented, or appear an ob-
structicn to daily occupations, it is more ridiculous
than if it were too common.

A lady Who wears her own hair dressed Without
a cap, Will require no other head—dress during
Winter : it has a youthful appearance Which is very
agreeable; and caps become necessary but too
soon.

A littleﬁc/Lu en santoir of silk or gauze, according
to the fashion, may be worn. .

Neat shoes and very White cotton stockings,
sufﬁce for the morning.

To mothers, the black silk apron is very suita-
ble, to be laid aside, of course, When a ceremonious
visit occurs. Common aprons are generally made
of silk. Aprons 0f gros de Naples, trimmed with
fringe, lace or embroidery, are very elegant.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

374 DRESS.

Coloured aprons are very handsome; and young
ladies Who have little to do, may take advantage of
these pretty in-door ornaments.

In Winter, a three—quarter shawl may be worn in
the house, When a scarf or a long pelerine would be
reprehensible. If a shawl is worn at home, it
should not exceed four-quarters, for nothing
is more embarrassing. Besides, it is better to
cover one’s self up warmly under the gown, with-
out enlarging or overcharging the ﬁgure, than to
wear a shawl habitually. It conceals the bust,
fetters the movements, and renders us liable to
colds.

PROMENADE DRESS.

I have stated that a young lady should be
sufﬁciently well dressed at home, to be able to
walk out Without notice. But walking out is not
going to the promenade; and this last requires a
more ornamental style of dress.

For the Winter afternoon, velvet pelisses are
decidedly the most elegant dress; and, When made
to ﬁt exceedingly well, they add much to the
beauty of the ﬁgure. Next in beauty to these,
perhaps, are black or dark coloured satin and silk
cloaks, Which are occasionally lined With fur. Fur
pelerines 0r boas, or both, are, in Winter, indispen-
sable: those of dark sable are preferable.

 

CARRIAGE DRESS. £375

In the intermediate weather of spring and
autumn, as well as the cooler days of summer, are
worn satin or silk pelisses of the prevailing colours,
dresses of thick and rich silk, fringed or plain
poplins, chalis, and cashmeres,-—With embroidered
or plain pelerines, and French cambric collars
trimmed with lace, or collars of India muslin very
beautifully W01~ked,—-—or With rich shawls and col-
lars in lieu of the pelerine. A fashionable article
is the mantilla of the colour of the dress.

For the warm weather of summer, are used
dresses of light silk, With pelerines and collars,
or With light shawls and collars; or dresses of
7 White muslin With the same; or, in the warmest
weather, either of these dresses With canezots, and
Without pelerines.

At all seasons are worn bonnets 0f ﬁgured satin
or silk, White, yellow, pink, azure blue, and lilac,
With veils of tulle, coulisses, &c.

CARRIAGE DRESS.

Carriage dresses, either for summer or Winter,
should be of very rich and beautiful materials,
satin, rich silk, or, in summer more especially,
embroidered India muslin, over primrose, pink,
blue, or peach—blossom coloured silk.

The bonnets are of transparent Grape, White

   

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

376 DRESS.

chip ornamented With oéseau d6 paradis, or White
and citron—coloured satin, With handsome plumes
of ostrich feathers tastefully adjusted. Blonde
falls add greatly to the beauty of the wearer, and
are indispensable to carriage costume.

The shawls worn are of the most superb descrip-
tion. In Winter, the furs are of ermine or the

darkest sable.

FURTHER DRESS FOR PROMENADE, CARRIAGE,
ETC.

In promenade or carriage dress, jewels are out
ofplace. Nothing should be worn round the neck
but a plain or watered ribbon, about half an inch
broad, or a chain of silver or gold, as a guard to
suspend the watch, or eyeglass if the wearer be
short-sighted, for wearing an eyeglass Without
occasion for it is a piece of impertinent affectation.

The custom of exposing the watch is inconve-
nient and affected; it would be in better taste to
conceal it. A handsome ornamented watch key
and a seal of some precious stone, are the only
articles of jewellery that may be worn as appen-
dages. '

It should be observed that triﬂing differences in
the shape of obj ects, in other respects similar, class
some as either promenade or carriage, or as full

dress.

 

BALL DRESS. 377

White or black veils, or half veils, of tulle, and
even of blonde With a coulisse, are suited to the
promenade or carriage: veils embroidered all
round are full dress.

Gauze caps are not even half dress: the berrets
Which resemble them are dress.

 

The style of dress for the evening repast, depends
on the number of guests, and the ceremony ob—
served at the dinner; and its gradations may be
derived either from those Which precede or those
which follow. For a large party, a handsome dress
for the head and neck is worn; and jewels are
more or less employed.

For a tea party or a concert, the style of dress
Will be much the same.

BALL DRESS.

The ball dress requires a union of beauty,
elegance, lightness, and magniﬁcence. All the
resources of the toilet must be lavished upon it. No
trivial embroidery or ornaments of gold or silver
must glitter there: their place is supplied With
pearls, diamonds and other jewels.

As the degree of elegance varies much in ball
dresses, we may make three divisions: 1st, plain;
2d, half—dress; 3d, full—dress.

For plain ball dress, black or White prunella shoes;
plain silk stockings; White taﬁ'ety slip; a gauze or

   

 

 

 

 

 

 

378 DRESS.

a muslin dress, trimmed with Wide ribbon in puffs,
or other slight ornament; sleeves and body plain;
the last slightly shewing the neck; the band with
bows or clasp of the same colour as the trimming;
the hair uncovered and ornamented with bows of
ribbon or a ﬂower; ear—rin gs and necklace of roman
pearls; white gloves; and scarf of transparent
material, suited to the prevailing colour, which is
generally rose or azure blue.

As the robe is always worn a little lower in the
bosom than ordinary, the scarf or any other equi-
valent ﬁchu, may be assumed in the intervals of
dancing.

For half ball dress:——shoes of black or white silk,
of the same colour as the dress; very ﬁne silk
stockings; white satin slip; a dress of white Or
coloured crape, trimmed With several rows of
similar ruches; puffed trimmings 0f crape 0r satin
mixed; draperies beneath which rise the puffs of
crape; sometimes a bouquet of ﬂowers raising the
trimming on the knee ; a bouquet similar at the
cincture or elsewhere; a draped body showing the
neck; cincture ofsatin or ribbon suited to the robe;
sleeves decorated; head-dress of ﬂowers; ear-rings,
necklace and other ornaments of roman pearl;
White gloves; and scarf of lace, &c.

For full ball dress :-—white satin shoes 3 very
beautiful openwork silk stockings; satin slip trim-
med With blonde; dress composed of the most

 

BALL DRESS. 379

magniﬁcent materials, such as lace elegantly
worked in colonnades, with two rich ﬂounces;
ﬁgured blonde trimmed with blonde; similar
materials plain but embroidered with variegated
silks ; the blonde trimmings raised up with ﬂowers;
trimmings formed of several bouquets of ﬂowers,
and raised by a bouquet on the knee; body orna-
mented with draperies of blonde, fastened on the
shoulders by ornaments similar to those of the
trimming (except the ﬂowers, for nothing is in
worse taste than wearing ﬂowers on the shoulders);
a bouquet at the side; head—dress of ﬂowers, pearls,
ostrich feathers or marabouts; jewels of pearl,
amethyst, ruby, topaz, chrysolite, or diamonds;
scarf or shawl of blonde.

At the present day, ladies dance in long sleeves
en gégot: nothing can be more unbecoming, and
not even those who have ill—shaped arms should
acquiesce in such a fashion. The short sleeves
now worn, reaching nearly to the bend of the arm
and ﬁnished with wide blonde sabots, conceal
every defect.

HaIf—length gloves are much more becoming
than long ones; but the arms or at least the fore—
arms, must then be white and well formed. It is the
fashion to wear several pairs of bracelets over long
gloves: this strange custom becomes still more
Whimsical if the dress is plain. But all kind of
Spangled embroidery, and ribbon glittering with

   

 

 

 

 

 

 

380 DRESS.

tinsel, or ﬂowers With tinsel leaves, are more suit-
able to a ballet at the opera, than to an assembly
in good society. ,

It was formerly the custom to wear ball-dresses
so low in front, as almost to amount to an indecent
exposure of those charms Which cease to be at-
tractive When unblushingly obtruded. The
fashion has changed, and the ball-room no longer
presents a collection of semi-nude female ﬁgures.

Through a light tissue of tulle or gauze, the
skin appears much Whiter, more beautiful, and it
conceals the perspiration and. redness, Which often
streak the skin and the neck, in dancing. Besides
the attraction of modesty, the most powerful charm
that women possess, Will make this simple ﬁehu
the most elegant part of dress.

I have here merely endeavoured to give our
readers an idea of the combinations suitable to the
style of dress Which they may choose, according to
their means, or the elegance of the assembly.

A very beautiful embroidered handkerchief, and
a. fan, are the only things that may be carried in
the hand in dancing.

In- sending invitations to intimate friends, to an
evening party, they must be made acquainted with
the degree of ceremony and dress of the assembly.
The invitation alone is a sufﬁcient indication to
persons Who are not intimate, 0f the style of dress
that Will be requisite.

 

VARIATIONS 0F DRESS. 381

Whenever the mistress of the house receives
company at home, her dress should be of an ele—
gant simplicity, so as not to appear to rival that
of the guests. If their dress is in anywise disar-
ranged, she should supply them carefully with the
means of repairing it, but never give advice as to
a better arrangement; even though it should to
her seem to be urgent. She must never let them
suppose that she does not consider them perfectly
well dressed.

VARIATIONS OF DRESS WITH SEASON AND
WITH AGE.

The variations that the changes of the season
require in our clothes and ornaments, have been
already pointed out: velvet, plush and satin, are
the basis of the winter dress; and silk and muslin

 

 

of the summer costume.

Not even the bouquets 0f the head—dress should
be adopted without attention; the ﬂowers must
suit the season. In spring, bouquets of blue bells,
poppy, jonquﬂle, narcissus, &0. should be used;
and the ﬂowers should be changed as the season
produces new ones.

During winter, there is some difficulty in this
respect. Even then, however, bouquets 0f the
early spring, such as Violets, lilac, and the ﬂowers
already mentioned are not worn: roses alone suit

 

       

 

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l
i
l.

 

 

382 DRESS.

all seasons. Mixed bouquets are not in good
taste.

Married people are allowed to be more splendid
in their attire than young ladies. Their age, their
position in the world, and their circumstances,
procure them this indulgence.

Robes of satin, velvet, and China crape, are less
suitable to the young than to those Who are older.

Drawing—room plumes, even marabouts, les
esprits, toques d’assemblée, dress berrets, long
veils of tulle or blonde, embroidered all round and
thrown over the bonnet, are conﬁned as a head-
dress to married ladies. Young ladies may adopt
every other.

Real or imitation cashmeres, especially in six—
quarters, large black or White blonde shawls, or .
simply tulle, are less suitable to a young person.
The same may be said of scarfs of blonde, net, or
cashmere.

Finally, brilliants, or jewels of great value, are
less suited to the young.

If a lady is of a certain age, she must not only
leave off the head-dress en ckeveux and ﬂowers,
but also scarfs, ﬁchu-pelerines, every thing that
opens the ﬁgure, however good otherwise her shape
may be. To avoid the heat, she may wear large
shawls of net or blonde.

 

383

SECTION II.

MODE OF DRESSING.

To put on the gown and to arrange the dress
may appear, at ﬁrst, so simple that our readers may
think any account of this unnecessary minuteness.
Still, to some it may not be useless.

After the corset is put on, arrange the shoulder
straps upon the edge of the shoulders, smoothing
them at the point Where they join the front; and
draw down the corset by the bottom gussets, so
as to make it cover the hips, Without rising up.

The stay lace, Which should be at least two‘ells
and a half in length, should always be fastened at
the bottom on the right side by a moveable knot.
Begin at the bottom or top according to your
ﬁgure, taking care not to draw too tight, as you
proceed. When all the eilet—holes are laced,
tighten them a little at the bottom 5 still more in the
middle; and leave them loose again at the shoul-
ders. By this means, the waist Will appear small,
the shoulders Wide, and the hanches and hips pro-
jecting. The principal thing, however, is to avoid
producing any ill effects, and this practice of
lacing-in the waist, if carried to an excess, is most
injurious to digestion, respiration, &co Still it is

6

     

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

384 DRESS.

desirable that the top and bottom of the corset
should be looser than the middle.

The next thing is to put on the gown Without
deranging the head—dress. For this purpose, bend
the head very low, While the maid holds the top
very open, and it Will then pass over the head
Without touching the hair. When the gown is on,
raise it up a little, to prevent it dragging along the
ground, and then arrange the handkerchief.

The dress is put on before the handkerchief,
because it is of importance not to rumple the col-
lerette, Which would inevitably be done if the
handkerchief were put on ﬁrst.—Still, if the hand-
kerchief be low, it may be put on ﬁrst.

When the maid is fastening the body, raise the
neck, that it may not be conﬁned 0r rumpled.
Place a pin transversely in the middle of the
waistband, to keep it down. Draw the waistband
well down ﬁrst, as well as the sides, to make the
gown sit close under the arms; and then fasten
them With a pin to the corset. The same must be
done by the maid at the back of the body, Which
must be drawn almost down to the folds of the
petticoat.

To fasten the waist of the dress ﬁrst, is a great
point, as regards the ﬁt, as well as the comfort of
the dress.

A skilful maid Will arrange the tournure before
she puts the dress on, and then, drawing the body

 

MODE OF DRESSING. 385

and ﬁxing it over this, she gives it ﬁrmness and
neatness. To prevent the tournure being seen
through the opening of the dress, the two sides of
this opening should be joined With a pin placed
inside and lengthwise.

There is invented by Miss Morris, a tammy
petticoat, Which gives a very elegant and graceful
appearance to the ﬁgure, and would, if generally
known, entirely exclude those styled bustles, Which
generally amount to a deformity.

This method of drawing down the dress behind,
and under the arms, is indispensable, especially
When the waist is long; and many bodies Will not
set well Without it.

If the waistband fastens in front, the end should
be drawn and. ﬁxed by a pin a little before the
place Where it began. *»

If it is tied behind, it should be in two pieces;
the‘front, and the prepared knot or the bow.

The front is fastened by crossing the two ends
behind: it ought to ﬁt exactly. For this purpose,
some dress—makers make a transverse seam in the
middle of the waistband: this seam ﬁxes a bias fold.

As to the knot, a pin is ﬁrst put through the
boWs to attach them to the waistband, and another
pin is introduced into each of the bows to attach
it delicately to that part of the corsage Which
adjoins the waistband.

This should be the ﬁnishing touch to the toilet.

s

     

 

 

386

SECTION III.

CHARACTER.

There is so great a difference between individuals
of the female seX, resulting from difference of age,
shape, character of face, complexion, and colour
of hair, that it is impossible that the same style or
description of dress can be becoming to all g and
if we see so few women well—dressed, the reason
is, that generally speaking, young and old, tall
and stout, dark and fair, women With Grecian fea-
tures, and women With irregular traits, all adopt
the same style of robe and head—dress, the same
colours and the same ornaments, provided fashion
sanction the use.

GENERAL PRINCIPLE.

It is a principle of costume that, as all objects,
When enlarged above and diminished inferiorly,
have, like the inverted pyramid, an air of lightness,
and that of heaviness When oppositely constructed,
—so the human ﬁgure, When enlarged above and
diminished inferiorly by the mode of costume, has
the appearance of lightness, and that of heaviness
When differently dressed.

Hence it is that the small head-dress, and enor-
mous train suitably characterize the more stately

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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‘I‘illkwit ll“ .

 

CHARACTER. 387

dame, while the large hat or bonnet, and shorter
dress distinguish the livelier gir1.—-See Plate IX.

MINOR DETAILS.

When the features are noble, grave, nay even a
little austere, toques and berrets ornamented With
plumes, and long brilliant ear-rings are very
becoming. In such character, the hair should be
removed as much as possible from the forehead.

If the stature be lofty and imposing in accordance
with the features, a long robe of beautiful material
With deep trimmings, a large shawl hanging in
drapery over the shoulders, and a large richly
furred cloak, Will complete a majestic and digniﬁed
ensemble. .

A slight, delicate and graceful ﬁgure, requires a
totally different style of dress. Soft and delicate
ﬂowers should ornament the cap and the hair,
and the sweet expression of the face should be
enhanced by wreaths of jasmine, rose buds, &c.

Light transparent dresses, trimmed very low,
scarfs, small ﬁchmpelerines, falling collars, not
too large, of beautifully embroidered point, 100k
well on slight ﬁgures. The shawl should never
exceed four quarters; and a boa of moderate size
should, if possible, be worn instead of a cloak.

 

In all this, let every thing be, as far as possible,
characterized by unity and simplicity.
s 2

 

 

 

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Arv-

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388

SECTION IV.

SIMPLICITY.

The toilet does not depend for effect upon the
richness of the clothes, or value of the ornaments.
Generally speaking, great simplicity in dress is
preferable to magniﬁcence. The ﬁnest cloths and
stuffs are more effective When not overloaded with
embroidery and ornaments.

OPINIONS OF THE ANCIENTS.

The period at Which the Grecian women per-
formed so brilliant a partwat Which they received
the homage 0f the greatest men, was that in
Which the simplicity of their costume was in
harmony With the perfection of their charms.

Of the richness of dress, among the Romans,
Ovid says:—

“ Let not the nymph with pendants load her ear,
Nor in embroidery or brocade appear;

Too rich a dress may sometimes check desire,
And cleanliness more animate love’s ﬁre.”

 

SIMPLICITY. 389

OPINIONS OF THE MODERNS.

“What covers him uncovers him,” says
Cervantes of a person always overloaded With
jewels. In fact, richness of attire does appear to
solicit criticism, to provoke examination, and to
justify malice.

“ Women,” says Rousseau, “ may dazzle by
their splendour; but they can please only by their
person. Our ornaments are not ourselves: fre-
quently they disﬁgure in consequence of being
elaborate; and often those Which she Who wears
them means to be most observed, are those Which
are observed the least.

“ The education of girls is, in this respect, quite
the reverse of What it should be. We promise
them ornaments as a recompence; we teach them
to love rare ornaments: ‘ How beautiful she is 1’
we say, When a girl is richly dressed. And, on
the contrary, we ought to make them understand
that so many adjustments are made only to conceal
defects, and that the true triumph of beauty is to
shine of itself.

“ When I see a young woman strut in her
decorations, I appear uneasy to see her ﬁgure so
disguised, and as to What may be thought of it: I
say ‘ all these ornaments decorate too much; it is

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

390 DRESS.

a pity; do you believe that she cannot bear simpler
ones ; is she beautiful enough to dispense With this,
or With that?’ Perhaps she Will then be the ﬁrst
to entreat that such an ornament may be removed,
and that we should then judge: this is the time to
applaud her, if there is room for it.

“ I never praise her so much as When she is most
simply dressed. When she does not regard deco-
ration but as supplement to the graces of the
person and as a tacit avowal that she has need of
assistance in order to please, she Will not be proud
of her decorations, she Will be humbled by them;
and if more dressed than usual, she hear any one
say ‘ How beautiful she is !’ she Will blush With
vexation.

“Besides, there are ﬁgures Which require dress;
but there are none Which require rich ornaments.
Ruinous decorations are the vanity of rank and not
of the person: they belong only to prejudice.
True coquetry is sometimes affected; but it is
never pompous or gaudy. Juno dressed herself
more superbly than Venus. ‘Not being able to
make her beautiful, you have made her rich,’ said
Apelles to a bad painter, Who had painted Hellen
loaded With ornaments.

“ I have also remarked that the most pompous
dresses announce in general ugly women: it is not
possible to have a more unskilful vanity. Give to
a young woman, Who has taste and Who despises

 

FURTHER REMARKS. 391

the fashion, ribbons, gauze, muslin and ﬂowers,
Without diamonds, trinkets and laces, and she Will
make a dress for herself Which shall render her a
hundred times more charming than the most
fashionable milliners are capable of doing. Those
women Who have the skin sufﬁciently White to
dispensewith lace would create great envy in others,
if they did not wear it.”

FURTHER REMARKS.

A light and simple robe, adapting itself easily to
a beautiful form; hair gathered up With taste, or
ﬂoating gracefully over the shoulders; a simple
rose; and you have one of those light and elegant
nymphs With Whom Albano has embellished his
lovely compositions.

The more beautiful a woman is, the less need
has she of ornament, and the more her dress
should be simple though elegant. Should not
then this undoubted truth satisfy females that
perfection in dress consists in simplicity, taste,
elegance and grace, and not in singularity of style,
newness of costume, richness of stuffs, or the use-
less and ruinous luxury of jewels. Vanity is ever
the companion of bad taste.

Affectation is indeed as fatal to the dress as it is
to the intellect. The Whole art consists in joining
simplicity With elegance, in adopting a neatness

 

 

392 DRESS.

equally remote from formality and carelessness, and
in the most perfect adjustment to the face and
ﬁgure.

In Plate X., Ornament and Simplicity are com-
pared; and. they appear to differ just as much as
vulgar and reﬁned taste do.

SECTION V.

ORNAMENn
Forgetful of this exquisite simplicity, and, if I
may so express myself, this unity of dress, Which
is the true touch-stone of good taste, the female
Who desires to dazzle, heaps ornaments upon
ornaments on her person, invents neW decorations
every day, and ﬁnally destroys the effect of her

charms by the glare of her profuse magniﬁcence.

PRINCIPLE FOR THE EMPLOYMENT OF FLOWERS
OR JEWELS.

For young women, wreaths of ﬂowers are gene-
rally the most suitable and effective ornaments.
Jewels are ﬁt only for the aged. i

There is a universal feeling of this truth, Which
though of an indeﬁnite kind, is founded deeply in
nature. Flowers decorate the system of life, Which
is exuberant only in the young: jewels decorate
the system of mind, Which excels in the 01d.
Flowers, in waving lines, are thrown over the per-

 

EAR-RINGS, BRACELETS AND RINGS. 393

son, and add to its loveliness and attractions : jew-
els, symmetrically arranged, are attached chieﬂy
to organs of sense or intellectual parts, and add to
its grandeur.——-See Plate XI.

In relation to the hair and the head, ﬂowers and
jewels are treated of in the following chapter. It
is necessary here only to mention

EAR-RINGS, BRACELETS AND RINGS.

The custom of piercing the ears, and attaching
various ornaments, however absurd it may appear,
exists amongst the most savage as well as the most
civilized people.

The wearing of ear—rings is indeed an established
custom in civilized nations. It is thought to com—
plete the toilet, and has no other inconvenience
than sometimes cutting the lobe of the ear, When
the drops are too heavy or too large.

Ear—rings, however, are not essential, and are
better disused, especially When not of a very su~
perior description. They should never be worn
by the young, unless they desire to appear as having
passed the period of youth!

Bracelets When very splendid, and When corres—
ponding ornaments are worn elsewhere, are capable
of great effect; but they are less adapted for youth

than for advanced life.
s 3

 

 

394 DRESS.

The bracelet is a very dangerous ornament to
wear; for if it embellish a pretty arm, it draws too
much attention to one of a defective form.

A small delicate hand is so beautiful a part of
the person, that it is a positive injustice to hide half
of it by a profusion of jewels. Young ladies should
never wear rings on their ﬁngers, unless they desire
to seem older, &c.

Hair chains, and hair bracelets, rings, and
brooches, are in the very worst taste.

OPINIONS OF WRITERS.

Every thing in the moral history of women,
says Count Segur, “ bears the mark of slavery im—
posed by a conqueror.” If this be the case, What
sentiment but disgust ought the collars, rings and
bracelets, with Which vanity decorates them, and
Which attest their dependance, to create in the
breast of females.

Madame Necker illustrates the Worth of jewels
by an anecdote.——“Une jeune et jolie femme (says
she), étant invitée au bal, envoya emprunter un
peu indiscrétement les diamans d’une femme
moins jeune et moins jolie qu’elle: ‘Dites lui,’
repondit cette femme, ‘que si elle m’envoie son

Visage, je me passerai sans peine de toutes mes
pierreries.’ ”

 

STILL STRONGER ARGUMENT. 395

Another anecdote Will shew what value sensi-
ble men attach to all external decorations.—At the
interview between Napoleon and the Russian
despot Alexander on the Niemen, Murat and
General Dorsenne came up together to take their
places behind Napoleon: Murat as usual covered
With embroidery, furs and aigrettes; Dorsenne,
in that elegant and ﬁnished but chaste style of
dress that rendered him the model of the army.
Napoleon, addressing Murat, said, “go and put
on your marshal’s coat; you look like Franconi.”*
He then took the most friendly notice of
Dorsenne. This lesson was not lost to the army:
he alone to Whom it was addressed failed to proﬁt
by it.

STILL STRONGER ARGUMENT.

Luxury in dress is quite at variance With the
true interests of women. The excessive expense
necessary to keep up an extravagant toilet,
intimidates men, especially men of sense, and pre—
vents them thinking seriously of an establishment,
Which offers nothing for the future but the shame-
ful waste of their means. A young man, there—
fore, in entering into the doubtful. chances of
matrimony, looks about for a woman Whose for-
tune may in some sort insure him beforehand for

" Allez mettre votre habit de maréchal; vous avez l’air de
Franconi.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

396 DRESS.

any future outlay. Money is then deemed the
only useful qualiﬁcation: money must supply the
want of beauty, acquirements and amiable temper.

But should the husband’s fortune not sufﬁce for
the boundless extravagance of his wife, need we
here describe the consequent embarrassments,
intrigues and corruptions? happiness vanishing,
and quarrels and dissension entering with all their
attendant evils?

Can we wonder then, that Zaleucus restrained
the unbridled luxury of the Locrians; that he pro-
hibited the use of superﬂuities by the most dis-
tinguished individuals ; that by his laws, no woman
of rank was allowed to have more than one slave
following her, unless she was intoxicated; that
courtezans alone were allowed to wear jewels and
embroidery; and that rings were conﬁned to men
of notoriously proﬂigate morals?

Finally, then, every thing that adds to the
beauty of women, every thing that enhances the
effect of their charms and the beauties that nature
has given them, is their lawful property. Every
thing, on the contrary, that renders them more
dazzling and more vain, every thing that tends
to substitute the adventitious merit of rank or
wealth for merits which nature has Withheld,
serves only to increase their defects and feed a
ridiculous self-love.

 

397

CHAPTER IV.

DRESS OF THE HAIR IN RELATION TO CHA-
RACTER, SIMPLICITY AND ORNAMENT.

 

SECTION I.

CHARACTER.—-ERRONEOUS NOTIONS.

ALL writers tell us that itis necessary to suit
head—dresses inversely to the size of the head,
and particularly to correct, by a judicious manage—
ment of the hair and of ornaments, any defect in
its proportions; and that, for want of considering
the person as a Whole, we do not perceive this
want of proportion, Which is a shocking defect.

If the head be too large, say they, the head-
dress should be as small as possible; and there
must be no gauze, n0 puffed curls, n0 jutting
bows, n0 protruding ornaments.

If, on the contrary, the head seem small, the
dimensions of the head-dress, they tell us, should
be increased in proportion; and it may even be

   

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

393 DRESS.

expedient to have recourse to false braids, and t0
puff out the curls, as much as fashion, taste and
the style of the face Will allow.

“ The head is an eighth of the body,” says
M. Croisat, one of the chief writers on the subject.
“ It is necessary to consider its size, its form, and
its character. It is necessary to consider its size,
because if it is too small in proportion to the body,
we must endeavour to enlarge it, and to widen the
face so as to give it just proportions. If, on the
contrary, as we often see, the head forms a sixth
of the body, we must endeavour to reduce it, so
that it may represent a seventh, the average pro—
portion among women.

“ For a person Who has the head very prominent
posteriorly, it is necessary to raise the hair very
high, and to begin to twist it only at the end of
the frontal line: the thickness of the torsade being
carried to the top of the head, contributes to cor—
rect its defects, because the posterior part is not
augmented, while on the contrary the mass raises
the cranium, and gives it the ordinary form. . .For
a person who has the head very ﬂat posteriorly
(he says) it is necessary to twist the hair lower,” &c.

As to the shape of the face, the purport of
M. Croisat’s directions, though not very clearly
expressed, is that a long face should have a 10W or
descending dress, and consist of transverse lines,
which diminish its real and apparent height; that

 

DRESS OF THE HAIR. 399

a short face should have a high or ascending dress,
and consist of vertical lines, Which increase its real
and apparent height; and that the intermediate
face should have an intermediate dress.

He similarly gives us to understand that a face
of Which the middle parts retire, must have
nothing projecting around it; and that a face of
Which the middle parts project, must have nothing
retiring around it.

REPLY TO THESE OPINIONS.—-GENERAL RULE.

In all this,‘ it is evident that defect or deformity
alone is regarded. But there are innumerable
instances of the head being large or small, With—
out the slightest deformity. In some women, the
trunk of the body is relatively large and the head
relatively small; and this is inseparable from the
character of exuberant Vitality. That character,
however, would be destroyed, and a false one
clumsily substituted for it, by the artiﬁcial enlarge-
ment of the head. In short, With every size of
head, a woman may be beautiful, provided her
other forms are in harmony With it.

On this subject, therefore, the rule is—to enhance
or exaggerate beautiful forms and character, and
to contract or disguise only those that are ugly.

   

 

 

 

 

 

400 DRESS.

INCONSISTENCY OF SUCH WRITERS.

We ﬁnd accordingly that, Without consistency
and Without explanation, the very same writers,
forgetting this their unqualiﬁed advice, to counte-
ract natural character, talk elsewhere of adapting
to it all their operations ! This is the natural result
of superﬁcial enquiry and want of all fundamental
principles.

“ Our highest merit, beyond contradiction,”
says M. Croisat, “ is to know how to adapt the
arrangement of the hair to the character of the
countenance. A head—dress Which does not har-
monize With the features, alters the physiognomy,
and renders it difﬁcult to be recognized: if, on the
contrary, it accords With them, it increases their
charm without altering their expression. . .Every
author Who has written on the toilet attests this
truth.”

With this, indeed, the common observations
correspond, 0f turbans, &c. being suited to tall
persons, &c.—observations, however, Which re-
quire to be generalized, by pointing out the phy—
sical characters of the articles thus appropriated
to certain ﬁgures, for the neglect of this leads to
eggregious errors. Thus some turbans or plumes
have one character, and others another ; and

 

GENERAL PRINCIPLES. 401

therefore in any guidance of this kind, it is essen-
tial to designate the physical character of the
dress, as well as, or preferably to, its name.

GENERAL PRINCIPLES.

Thus the grand style of countenance requires a
corresponding style of head—dress—consisting of
masses elevated, symmetrical and more or less
formal 5 as some of the ancient head—dresses, some
plumes, turbans, &c.

The gayer countenance requires lighter forms,
Which are oblique, irregular, open, careless, &c.

The intermediate countenance, "Which may be
marked by sentiment, &c. requires sometimes
drooping forms, as those of the veil, some plumes,
&c.

Simplicity and elegance are not applicable to
particular dresses, as some coiff'eurs imagine, but
should be the characters of a11.———Grace, a term
which they often abuse, is applicable only to
motion.

In age, the character of the head-dress should
always have more of grandeur ; in youth, more of
gaiety; and in middle age, When feeling and pas-
sion prevail, more of sentiment.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

402 DRESS.

MINOR DETAILS.

Elderly women, says Croisat very truly, are
accustomed, as we know, to uncover as little as
possible their meagre faces. Accordingly, it is
always before the prominence of the forehead that
we must carry the coiffure. In executing this,
however, much management is necessary on
account of the want of vigour in the physiognomy,
seeing that every thing that loads the forepart 0f
the head tends to give it hardness. I particularly
recommend not to overshadow the eyes by thick
curls, and to observe Whether the neck and cheeks
do not require curls thrown over them to conceal
wrinkles. In this case, the ringlets should fall
Without stiffness, and should mask these as if by
accident.

Women of large features or stature may wear
their hair in large curls, bows, or other masses, in
order to render the former relatively less.

It is necessary to know how to suit colours to
the shade of the hair,—b0th those Which may
give brilliance by contrast, and those Which may
give softness and richness by harmony. The
principles upon Which this is effected are already
before the reader.

As nature always produces hair corresponding
to the complexion, it is by its colour alone that
we can most agreeably shade the neck of woman.

 

SIMPLICITY AS TO THE HAIR. 403

When the hair has fallen. off by disease or any
other cause, recourse must be had to a false braid
of the same colour as the natural hair.

 

SECTION II.

SIMPLICITY.——PARTING ON THE FOREHEAD.

The consideration of simplicity With regard to
the hair is very important.

When the hair is parted 0n the forehead, the
line of separation should always, as among the
ancients, correspond With the mesial line of the
head, unless When the hair grows low on the
middle and higher on the sides of the forehead.

Among the women of ancient Greece, the long
hair, anointed With the most precious essences, was
allowed to fall gracefully over the bosom. Ana-
charsis thus represents the Wife of Dinias the
Athenian. “Lysistrata,” says he, “passed for
one of the most beautiful women of Athens, and
endeavoured to preserve this reputation by the
elegance of her dress; her black hair, perfumed
with essences, fell in large ringlets upon her
shoulders,” &c.

   

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

404 DRESS.

CURLING THE HAIR.

,The Roman married women affected to imitate
the vestals, and at one period wore a veil Which
concealed their hair and fell down over their
shoulders. The only difference was that matrons
allowed a few curls, artfully arranged, to appear
upon the forehead.

In curling the hair, it is necessary to take off the
papers by untwisting the ends, and to smooth the
hair With the comb, passing it in and out rapidly,
so as not to destroy the curl, and then to take a
tress from the top, as if going to put on a curl
paper, and to employ upon it the curl or tailed comb.

This is the comb With very ﬁne teeth at one end,
and terminating at the other in a sort of long handle
of the same material as the comb. The teeth are
used for frizzing gently the tress that we hold at
the end’between the third and fourth ﬁnger of the
left hand; and the handle serves to roll the frizzed
tress into a long ringlet, in the shape of a cork-
screw; sometimes the handle is used only in raising
up the ringlets, and putting them in place When
they are all curled, With the fourth ﬁnger of the left
hand, Which has replaced it in curling the ringlets.

The curls are arranged, but not in regular order:
the upper curl close by the forehead is ﬁrst placed,
and then the lower curl close to the forehead.

 

CURLING THE HAIR. _ 405

Some hair—dressers leave a tress much longer
than the rest close by the ear, curled corkscrew
fashion, and place it transversely in the parting,
and consequently over the longitudinal curls. The
handle of the comb is used in this arrangement,
and the effect is good under a cap or a garland
en couromze.

When all the curls are ﬁnished, the papillote
combs, made of light or dark tortoiseshell to match
the hair, are placed on the right and left by the
ears. They are used to raise the curls, and to
produce an appearance of fullness.

When the hair is very thin, the curls on the
forehead may be raised With small combs; but the
back of the comb is Visible through the curls, and
nothing has a worse effect.

Besides these combs, there are some for wearing
at the back of the neck. These little combs, of
the same height With the others, are of different
sizes and arched: they are sometimes used to take
up the short hairs Which grow down towards the
neck. Instead of these, a baton of pomade is now
generally used.

When the head—dress is completed, these little
hairs Which curl naturally are combed and passed
between the ﬁngers; and the back comb, if used, is
then put in With the teeth upwards. Thus these
little curls cannot reach the neck, but fall back

 

 

 

 

406 DRESS.

upon the comb, and are an agreeable ornament to
the back of the head. *

If there is any thing on the forehead that requires
to be concealed, it may be done by bringing down
a curl.

GATHERING THE HAIR UP INTO A KNOT.

At the time when Rome was free, the head-dress
of the women was very simple. The hair was
simply parted in front, twisted behind, and formed
into a knot, to decorate the top of the head.
Ancient monuments prove that this was also the
most common head—dress of the Grecian women,
who always took care to unite simplicity and
beauty.

The hair being thus raised, it was joined, either
behind or in front of the head, by a part called by
the Greeks corymbion and by the Romans nodus;
sometimes also after tying the hair, it was fastened
at the top of the head by a single pin.

Sappho speaks of these pins or bodkins in wri—
ting to Phaon, “ Since you have left me, I have
not had courage to dress my hair; gold has not
touched it. For whom should I take the trouble
to adorn myself? whom should I wish to please?”

 

407

FLOWERS, &0. FOR THE HAIR.

Combs are quite unsuitable for full dress ; and
therein ﬂowers and wreaths should never be com-
bined With jewels and coronets.

When the head—dress is completed, not a single
hair must start from the mass, Which should
always be smooth and brilliant; and if any of the
hair is deranged during the day, it must be care-
fully replaced. A female With her hair in disorder,
or badly arranged, has always a slovenly appear;
ance: the least that can be said of her is, that she
indecently neglects herself.

ADAPTATION TO FEATURES.

Great masses of hair ought never to be worn
by persons Who are little in features or in stature,
as they are thereby rendered still less.

Of the arrangement of the hair, Ovid well
observes:

“ The hair disposed, may gain or lose a grace
And much become or misbecome the face.
What suits your features of your glass enquire;
For no one rule is ﬁx’d for head attire.
A face too long should part and ﬂat the hair,
Lest, upward comb’d, the length too much appear:
So Laodamia dress‘d. A face too round
Would shew the ears, and with a tower be crown’d.”

6

 

 

 

 

408

SECTION III.

ORNAMENT, 0R COMPLEXITY.

The Athenians, and afterwards the Roman
women, carried the art of arranging the hair to
the greatest extent.

The masses of hair complexly arranged and
therefore opposed to simplicity, Which coiﬂ'eurs now
build up in various ways upon the head, have been
rendered necessary in order to maintain a cor-
respondence and harmony with the rest of the
dress, and With that violation of simplicity and
elegance Which has been committed by the dress—
maker.

COMBING AND GATHERING UP THE HAIR.

The hair at the back of the head, is more easily
arranged than that in front. It requires to be
disentangled and smoothed, and is always combed
over the forehead. As this operation requires the
head to be held very low, it should be concluded
before the stays are laced, because the pressure of
the corset considerably increases the momentary
impulse of blood to the brain, Which this move-
ment creates.

 

COMBING AND GATHERING UP THE HAIR. 409

When by combing, the hair is rendered perfectly
smooth, the Whole may be gathered up and tied
more or less forward on the mesial line, according
to the form of the head, 01‘ the character meant to
be given to it.

For this purpose, the hair is tightly grasped
and gathered upon the top of the head, Where it is
held With the left hand, till it has been tied up
With a black silk cord about the third of an e11 in
length; one of the ends is placed as close as pos—
sible to the head, Where it is held between the
third and fourth ﬁngers of the left hand, the hair
being still kept tight With the remaining ﬁngers of
that hand; the cord is next turned from right to
left With the right hand; and the two ends are
then fastened in front. The comb is ﬁnally passed
through the hair, to smooth it.

When the hair is gathered on the top of the
head, if a twist is given to it and the comb placed
in it, it Will remain there Whilst the operation con-
tinues. This, however, Which the French call [6
casque, requires practice.

0
TURNING THE HAIR.

The turn is ﬁrst formed gently, and as low as
possible, to give the casque a handsome appear—
ance, and must pass along the hinder part of the
head, Without presenting the appearance of a knot.

T

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

410 ~ DRESS.

This is managed by taking the hair With the four
left ﬁngers and thumb, the palm of the hand being
on the top; then straightening it, and taking it
With the four ﬁngers and thumb of the right hand,
the left hand being under; and ﬁnally turning the
hair towards the little ﬁnger of the right hand,
Which gradually glides t0 the top of the head,
Whilst the left hand is Withdrawn and used for the
purpose of collecting any straggling hairs into the
twist.

The twist being thus formed, the hair is pressed
tight at the upper end, and a comb is put in gently;
or a straight comb of horn or shell may be used
Without a top, and the tortoise—shell comb, the
open-W0rked back of Which is so large and lofty,
that it is impossible to wear it under a bonnet, is
then inserted.

The latter, by means of a false comb, may be
taken out, and put in as often as may be required,
Without in any way deranging the head—dress.

FURTHER ARRANGEMENT OF THE HAIR.

The casque, thus formed, is the base of the com-
plex head-dress, but not the head-dress itself: we
now turn our attention to that, merely observing
that hair dressed en casque is more elegant than
plaited hair. It is often, however, plaited in
casque: indeed that may be called the mode at
present.

 

IN BOWS. 41 i

Fashion changes so much the style of the head
dress, that it is useless to spend time in describing
the particular fashion of the present time; for, it
is very probable that the fashion would be changed
by the time our description of it could be in
print. The Proteus, however, is not altogether
out of our’ reach: it takes, quits, and retakes a
certain number of forms, amongst Which it is com-
pelled to select one. We are now about to de-
scribe these various forms; and When fashion
happens to select ﬁrst one and. then another, the
application of these rules Will be very simple.

The hair can be dressed only in four ways: 1st,
in bows; 2d, in braids; 3d, in twist; 4th, in ring-

lefs or curls.

IN BOWS.

The casque being ﬁnished, the hair is held
tightly in the left hand, and the Whole of it care-
fully combed with a large toothed comb. It is then
disposed in a greater or smaller number of masses,
according to the number of bows required, to the
length of the hair, and to the style and form of the
face.

To form two bows, divide” the hair into two
parts. Should it be very long, two divisions Will
sufﬁce for four bows: if short, it must be divided

into four.
T 2

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

412 DRESS.

The size of the bows must accord With the
style of the face.

Tall persons, Who should avoid adding to their
height by their style of head—dress, require 10w
bows somewhat puffed or enlarged. Still, the
visage then appears narrower. It is of conse—
quence, therefore, to seize that particular height
Which is suitable, avoiding at the same time ren-
dering the head- dress either too wide or too narrow,
both extremes being equally ridiculous.

Elevated bows, placed lightly on the side of the
head, are often becoming to a round face and
short ﬁgure.

If it is desired to make only two bows, and the
hair is sufﬁciently long to form both, it need not
be divided.

Take the hair With the thumb and foreﬁnger 0f
the right hand, the nails being turned upwards,
and pass over the palm of that hand, the hair held,
in the left. Then reverse the right hand, the nails
being turned down, so that it may be enclosed in
the hair, and this Will form, the ﬁrst how upon the
right side. Fasten the bow With a hair pin, pass—
ing it ﬁrst through the hair, then over the lower
part of the bow, and again into the hair.

The ﬁrst bow being formed, take up the rest of
the hair With the left hand, leaving the right in
the other bow, and form the second bow on the
left side, putting the ends of the hair underneath
to conceal them.

 

IN Bows. 413

That being done, keep the twist of the comb in
position With the thumb and two ﬁrst ﬁngers of
the left hand, and fasten the twist and the head—
dress With the comb at the same time.

The operation is concluded by gently elevating
the tops of the bows With the ﬁngers or introducing
the left hand beneath, and passing the comb over
the outside to keep the hair smooth and bright.

To make four bows in the head—dress, if the
hair be sufﬁciently long, divide it into two parts,
and form on one side, With the part nearest the
head, the ﬁrst bow, fastened With a hair-pin; and
the second With the rest of the hair. As the end
of the hair is generally rather thinner, the second
curl must be frizzed. Do the same With the second
bow on the other side.

A symmetrical disposition of the bows has a
bad effect. If the bow on the right is behind the
comb, that on the left should be before it; and, of
the centre bows, one should be always a little more
advanced than the other.

The ends of the hair must always be carefully
hidden under the bows, to increase their size and
strength.

If the hair is deﬁcient in length, divide it into
four parts, instead of two.

Then, with the left hand, take the extremity of
one division to form the right bow; frizz it; pass
the right hand into the interior of that bow, for

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

414 DRESS. ‘

the purpose of moulding it, by runningithe comb
gently over the outside; bring its extremity t0 the
head; and fasten it With a pin.

The other bow is formed in the same way.

Frizzing has been justly blamed, because it
breaks anddestroys the hair; it ishowever indispen-
sable in certain cases: 1st, When the hair is short;
2d1y, When it is very thin and weak; 3d1y, When
the head-dress is complicated. It is better, there—
fore, to dispense With this custom and to wear a
false braid. The mode of frizzing is as follows.

Take the hair Which it is intended to friz
between the foreﬁnger and second of the left hand,
taking care to spread it the Whole length of two
ﬁngers, to prevent its matting. In this position,
strike the hair smartly at the extremity With a v
large comb, held straight, advancing gradually
towards the head, for the purpose of sending back
the short hair to the roots 3 taking care not to friz
it too deep, because the hair would then stand up
under the other surface, Which ought to remain
perfectly smooth.

When the frizzing is ﬁnished, smooth this sur—
face again With the ﬂat comb 0n the outside; for,
otherwise, there is a risk of unfrizzing the tress.
The frizzing ought to be uniform, and not to pre-
sent the least appearance of a pad or knot.

 

415

IN BRAIDS.

The casque being ready, commence plaiting the
hair.

The braids may be large, or small, of three, four,
ﬁve, six, or even twelve or ﬁfteen portions. Divide
the hair into as many portions as you want braids.
Comb it, and smooth it lightly With the hand, with
a little pomader Spread all these portions over
the shoulders. They are then plaited, drawing
them pretty tight, and passing and crossing them
one over the other, always in the same order.
Having reached the end of the hair, friz it at the
extremity, to prevent the plait getting undone.

The plaits being thus prepared, turn and arrange
them on the head, ﬁxing them With hair-pins,
Which are placed underneath, so as to conceal
their heads in the portions of the braid.

This head—dress is quite solid: the bonnet may
be taken off and put on Without deranging it, and
it dispenses With frizzing, Which is so injurious to
the hair. "

As the plaits cannot be-smoothed With the ﬂat
comb, a little pomade must be used When they
are too dry. They should always be very brilliant.

IN TWIST 0R. TORSADE.

There is nothing more simple than the twist.
After the hair has been well combed and

   

 

 

 

416 DRESS.

smoothed, it merely requires to be twisted gently,
and arranged like a crown on the top of the head.
It is then fastened ﬁrst With the comb, and after-
wards With black pins.

IN RINGLETS OR CURLS.

When the hair is dressed in ringlets 0r curls,
the curls are sometimes mixed With bows and
plaits. There is but one thing to observe With
regard to this complex head—dress, namely, that
When fashion prescribes it, We may purchase a
curled toupet,‘ because the use of curling irons
would spoil the hair, and this operation would

render the head—dress insupportably tedious.

The top and back of the head should be
ﬁnished before the curl-papers are removed from
the hair in front.

The short hair near the neck, that cannot be
gathered up With the rest, may be made into a
little curl behind the ear. It is, however, perhaps
better to form these hairs into a very small braid,
and mix them With the base of the turn of the
casque.

OF THE HAIRDRESSER, THE FINISH, &c.

Complicated head—dresses require the assistance
of a hair—dresser. The necessity of keeping the

 

OF THE HAIR-DRESSER, FINISH, &c. 417

arms raised for so long a time, and the difﬁculty of
judging of the effect behind, is both fatiguing and
vexatious.

Upon occasion, Where full dress is necessary, it
is best to employ a hair-dresser Whose taste and
skill is known.

If one possessing these talents cannot be
procured, his procedure must be superintended.
Being seated before a toilet glass, sufﬁciently large
to reﬂect the bust and the hair—dresser, it is
expedient to follow all his movements; and, With—
out being too eager to alter his arrangements, to
watch that he does not make huge ugly curls, bows
that elevate themselves into cones, or give to the
Whole of the head—dress an air of stiffness and
heaviness quite insupportable, to be careful that
regularity does not degenerate into studied stiff—
ness, and to bend the head from time to time,
to judge of the eﬁ'ect of the ornaments.

When such a hair—dresser has gone, it is not less
necessary With the curling comb to arrange,
according to the style of the face, the curls and
ﬂowers Which he may have placed too strictly in
accordance With the rules of his art.

When the head is completely dressed, care
should be taken to observe if the effect is good, on
viewing the side face. Many styles which look
very well in front, are very unsuitable When the
person turns round to present the proﬁle, quite

T 3

 

 

   

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418 DRESS.

changing the effect before produced. That is a
point not always thought of in choosing a dress
for the head.

At night the head—dress must be unfastened with
great care, the plaits and the frizzes especially must
be undone bit by bit, and a little pomade applied
after the dust of a drive or a ball. The hair Which
has been long conﬁned requires to be shaken out,
and allowed for some time to wanton freely in the
am

SUPERADDED ORNAMENTS.

Ornaments must never be adopted in the hair
Without attention to the harmony Which ought to
exist between them and the style of beauty.

Bows of ribbon of the same colour as the hair,
fastened With hair pins between the bows of hair
or above the plaits, do very well fora common
head-dress.

It has already been said that ﬂowers decorate
the Vital, jewels the 'mental system; and that
they naturally partake of the character of these
systems respectively.

Flowers are placed on the hair, either 111 wreaths
0r detached bouquets.

Flowers worn in wreaths must not overshadow
the forehead nor over load the top of the head; and,
therefore, large ﬂowers, such as the ranunculus,

 

SUPERADDED ORNAMENTS. 419

the dahlia, and anemone,shou1d never be worn en
couronne.

Large ﬂowers are better in a bouquet; but they
require some delicate ﬂower to be joined with them,
When they peep out from beneath a bow, sur.
mount a tress, or glide amongst the curls. Thus
the rose and drop-wort, the scabius and the lily of
the valley, the White stock and- the pansy, the
pomegranate and jasmine, have an excellent effect.

Flowers to beworn in the hair have long stalks
properly covered with paper or ribbon, and must
be bent to their particular positions by ﬂower—
pincers, (See Fig. 5, Plate 1.) as the slightest touch
of the ﬁngers is liable to soil them.

Flowers placed in the curls should not be too
much in front, nor placed symmetrically: a sort of
graceful irregularity ought to preside over the
arrangement. On one side, for instance, a rose-
bud near the eyebrow may extend its leaf upon the
forehead; and on the other side, a half—blown
ﬂower may rest upon the temple; Whilst a full—
blown rose straggles on from this point, to lose
itself among the curls, or mix itself amongst the
foliage of the ﬂowers that ornament the head dress.

Feathers should rarely be used; and when used
they should be few and of the very best description.

Feathers, marabouts, lace, and biases of gauze
should be arranged in the same manner as ﬂowers :
every thing should appear free: formal symmetry

 

 

 

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4;:'L1“u1.'>n—w\uwmu§ M... ..,, t .

 

420 DRESS.

and needless profusion have an unbecoming
effect.

The tiara well becomes a tall woman With long
features and expressive countenance: its effect is
imposing. The form, however, should be care—
fully considered. It must not be too high in the
centre, as that adds too much length to the face:
it should rise gradually from the temple. In
wearing it, the hair should be dressed moderately
10W. Gold or pearl, to match the front, twisted
through the hair, or (in ﬂorid or excessively orna-
mented dress), a second tiara, clasped round the
knot of the hair, materially adds to the beauty of
the head-dress, Which does not, in this case, require
the roll before spoken of.

Aigrettes of precious stones or pearls are fre-
quently used.

Ferronniéres on a high, smooth, White, and
polished forehead, have a ﬁne eﬂ’ect.

 

421

CHAPTER V.

PERFUMES.——THEIR EFFECTS.

THE past age was the age of perfumes, and we
are told that it was the reign of vapours and ner—
vous diseases. These may,however, be attributed
to other causes: women of fashion indulged in
liqueurs then, more than they do now.

Paleness, leanness, dark circles under the eyes,
weakness, nervous shudderings, are nevertheless
asserted to be the ordinary results of an extreme
abuse of perfumes amongst persons Whose nerves
are, from other causes, peculiarly irritable.

If this be true, they suffer all these miseries for
nothing; for, according to the expression of Maria
Leczinska, “ Perfumes are like grandeurs: they
Who bear them scarcely feel them.”

Throughout the East, perfumes are in very gene—
ral use; and appear to be in accordance With the

natural indolence and enfeebled constitutions of
the people. Their baths, their food, their beds,
and their clothes, are impregnated With them; and

 

 

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4422 DRESS.

the soothing intoxication produced by these em-
balmed vapours, acts upon them as the fumes of
Wine upon some of us.

But this luxury of a more fortunate climate, we
are told, suits only the voluptuous persons Who in~
habit it 3 it would have a direful effect on the peo-
ple of those countries Where nature has not lavished
it, because she did not think it necessary; the deli-
cacy of our nerves, the Vivacity of our sensations,
would soon be either injured or blunted.

In answer to this, it seems sufﬁcient to say, that
the eastern people have greater sensibility than
we have, but they abstain from intoxicating
liquors.

It may be true, that those Who make up per—
fumes are exposed to nervous diseases, and that
if they continue, they lose the sense of smell.
But so do those lose the sense, or at least the
delicacy, oftaste, Who make use of pungent savours:
yet they do not. therefore cease to employ that
organ.

The sense of smell affords as exquisite an en—
joyment as that of taste; and there is no reason
Why it should not be indulged.

OTHER OBJECTIONS.

It is said, indeed, that perfumes are nauseating
to some people.——There are no doubt strange
6

 

PERFUME‘S. 423

peculiarities as to all the senses; and those Who
have an interest in this, will no doubt give it due
consideration.

We are told that it is a proof of coquetry and
pretention, to employ perfumes.—Not more so
than it is to put on a dress or a bonnet Which is
not of the coarsest materials, the most imperfect
adaptation to the ﬁgure, or the ugliest colour.
And, if these constitute coquetry and pretension,
there is an end to taste in dress, and, on the same
principle, to taste, in all the ﬁne arts, and in every
thing addressed to our senses; for the sense of
smell is just as good a sense, and as deserving of
indulgehce, as any Other sense.

Total abstinence from perfumes is a useless pri-
vation.

Linen, hair oils, 'lipsalve, and soap, may all be
scented With soft and delicate perfumes, such as
the iris, the heliotrope, the reseda, the Violet, the
rose, &0.

VARIOUS PERFUMES AND THEIR QUANTITIES.

Florentine iris—root, such as is sold at the drug—
gists, put into the wardrobe and drawers, Will dif-
fuse a light Violet smell over all the clothes.

Fragrant perfumes, such as the lily, the tube-
rose, and the jasmin, should be used in very mode-

rate quantities.

 

—Qv-.M‘;~‘Lay—-vi<uw4. _.._...ci _ .
- ‘ - . \- .

 

 

 

 

 

 

424 DRESS.

Aromatic perfumes, such as pink, cinnamon and
vanilla, should never be used except in very small
quantities, and tempered by a mixture of less
powerful scents.

Ambrosial odours, such as amber and musk,
should never be used but in the very smallest
quantities.

The essence of the rose of Constantinople is the
most delicious of perfumes; but it is excessively
dear and almost always adulterated.

PERFUME FOR ARTIFICIAL FLOWERS.

Although it is little known among ladies, yet,
the giving the natural perfume to artiﬁcial ﬂowers
is a poetical custom, and in a reﬁned taste. In-
deed, it is one of the very best modes of carrying
perfumes about the person. Nothing can be more
easy than thus completing the illusion Which these
beautiful imitations of nature present.

A drop, or half a drop of the appropriate essence
may be poured into the ﬂower, or the latter may
be tied round With carded cotton steeped in the
appropriate perfume. A little iris-powder per—
fumes a bouquet of Violets; some portions of
ambret or sweet sultan, clove, bergamotte, form
the scent of the pink; essence of rose, more or
less strong, is suitable for roses of all colours; and
so on.

 

425

ROSE SCENT BAGS.

These are composed as follows:

White Roses ........................... 3 pounds.
Powder of' Cyprus ..................... % do.
Essence of Roses .................... % drachm.

Pound and sift the roses and the powder: then
add the half drachm of essence. Prepare also lit-
tle bags of cambric of a pretty shape, (such as a
heart, trefoil, &c.); pour upon them a little essence
of rose, and ﬁll them With the powder; close them;
and put them into other little bags of rose—coloured
taﬂ‘ety, gros de Naples, or satin. These elegant
bags are intended to perfume blondes, ribbons,
tulles, and other delicate articles.

ROSE PASTILES.

These pastiles for burning in rooms are composed
as follows:

Gum in an impalpable powder .......... 6 ounces.
Tears of Olibanum do. .............. 6 d0.
Storax d0. ............... 6 do.
Saltpetre d0. ............... 4 d0.
VVhite-rose powder d0. ............... 8 d0.
Powdered charcoal .......................... 2 pounds.
Essence of roses ............................. % ounce.

Mix all these ﬁne powders, and put them in a
pint of rose water, in Which you have dissolved,

an ounce of gum tragacanth, and make pastiles

 

 

 

 

426 DRESS.

With this mixture. Keep them enclosed in an
elegant box or casket, Which may serve as an
ornament to a table; and When you wish to use
them burn them in Wedgwood’s perfume-burner.

OTHER PASTILES.

The pastiles, for Which the receipt follows, are
used in the same way.

Powdered Benzoin .. ................... 9- ounces.
Balsam ofTolu ........................... §— d0.
Yellow Sandal powder ................. §- do.
True Labdanum ........................ 1 drachm.
N itrate of Potash ....................... ‘2 do.
Gum arabic in powder ................. 2 do.
Gum tragacanth in lump ................ 1 do.
Lime or linden charcoal . ............... 6 ounces.
Cinnamon water .......................... 12 do.

Begin by pounding the labdanum, the balsam 0f
tolu, the yellow sandal, the nitrate 0f potash
and a portion of the charcoal, and then the benzoin.

, When the powder is very ﬁne, and a thick muci—
lage has been made With the two gums and cinna-
mon water, make a paste, in a mortar, With the
powder, Which must be beat up till it becomes
soft and tenacious. Then make little cones about
an inch in height; set these to dry; and afterwards
light them at the small end, as they may be re-
quired, for the purpose of diffusing an agreeable
perfume in the apartments.

 

APPENDIX.

OBSERVATIONS BY A GENTLEMAN ON THE
IMITATION OF FRENCH FASHIONS.

THE women of France, considered generally,
are the ugliest in Europe. Their forms are angu-
lar, meagre and arid; their skin of greenish brown
or olive hue 3 their hair of an opaque dirty looking
black, and excessively coarse; their forehead low;
the general conﬁguration of the head, as
observed by Count Stendhal, like that of the
monkey; their eyebrows compressed 3 their upper
lip frequently covered With mustaches; and their
voice rough.

The most conspicuous point in their moral cha—
racter is a degree of vanity so excessive that, com-
bined With such an exterior, it seems, to the calm
and sensible observer, at once ludicrous and con-
temptible—an affectation so monstrous, and at—
tended With such shrugs, shrivels, and grimaces,
With nasal ongs and guttural laws, s0 brutal in
sound that, on ﬁrst Witnessing them, we begin by
thinking- it an unmerciful quiz, and end by disco—
vering it to be a disgusting reality.

Strange to tell, it is in this very ugliness and
vanity, Which have just been described, that ori-
ginates French fashion. The deplorable physical
condition and the extravagant mental desire com-

 

 

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‘ - V \ ,

 

 

 

 

 

 

428 APPENDIX.

bine to engender a desperate ingenuity in the
invention of some palliation from dress and man-
ners, Which may mitigate such a condition. No
violation of nature, accordingly, prevents the adop—
tion of a dress Which may serve for concealment.

But the matter ends not here. The same
vanity Which engenders French fashion, spreads its
inﬂuence. Affected attitude, impudent strut, and
impertinent chatter, are not more natural to that
people, than they are necessary to the presentation
of these monstrous inventions as absolute beauties.
The combination of these is called, “ an air
imposant,” “ la mine imgaosante.” And they do
indeed impose upon the weaker, that is, the more
numerous, minds in all the surrounding countries.

Does a Frenchwoman assume an immense bon—
net, in order that the ribbons and other append-
ages of Which it admits may either soften 01' With—
draw attention from her angular features, —the
Englishwoman throws aside her smaller bonnet,
Within Which beauty alone could be seen, and
obtrudes 0n the spectator a trumpery dress instead
of charming features. HOW stupid and absurd a
sacriﬁce !

Does a Frenchwoman assume desﬁc/ms m0n~
tans, frills, &c. because her neck, Which may be
relatively long, is black and skinny, and presents
the horrible cordes cm con, 01' stringy neck, caused
by passion, crying, shrieking,10ud talking, 810.,—
the E nglishwoman, Whose neck may be relatively

 

APPENDIX. 429

Short, round, polished and White, absurdly adopts
the same disguises, and leaves herself as little neck
as a pig!

Does a Frenchwoman assume monstrous sleeves,
en gigot, to cause at waist in Which there is
almost always avaccine expansion of the lower ribs
to appear less by comparison,———the Englishwoman,
whose waist is almost always slender enough, not
only adopts the French monstrosity, but laces her—
self until she brings on the frightful catalogue of
diseases described by Mr. Coulson in his interest—
ing work on the “ Deformities of the Chest.”

Does a Frenchwoman assume a Wide skirt and
numerous trimmings to aid the last-mentioned
purpose as to the waist, as well as to conceal her
meagre and b0ny1imbs,-—the Englishwoman fol—
lows the example, and adds to her ampler hips and
relatively shorter limbs, until she converts her-
self into a formless mass.

Does a Frenchwoman adopt the strongest and
most glaring colours to overpower the yellow,
green, and black horrors of her Visage, or the
frightful mustaches of her upper lip, or her coarse
and dirty black hair,—the Englishwoman assumes
the fashionable colour, which is equally calculated
to make her look ill and the Frenchwoman well,
and Which renders her exquisite complexion insi—
pid, and gives to her soft and placid features the
air of “ zm mouton qui 7‘é'226 I”

So complete is the imposition generated by

 

A » ﬂu» ---w.-v } H

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

430 APPENDIX.

French ugliness and vanity, that the French, as
a pastime and solace to these amiable qualities,
employ themselves extensively in making models
and pictures of dresses, Which they never wear,—
Which their means, indeed, do not permit of their
wearing,—but Which strangers, in their simplicity,
adopt.

So complete is this imposition, that the most
ignorant French pretender ﬁnds instant employ-
ment as a dressmaker in London; her stock in
trade being forms so monstrous as utterly t0 des-
troy our bellezza pelleg‘rz'na, colours that render
our women hideous, and (though last not least) the
incapability of speaking one word of English.

S0 complete is this imposition that, in London,
many English dressmakers, When their features
are hard enough, and their complexion dark
enough, ﬁnd their proﬁt in assuming French names
and in refusing to speak one word of English.
Some, indeed, of the more daring make a curious
mixture of both languages; While the less capable
pretenders stupidly speak one word or sentence of
tolerable French, and the neXt of vulgar English!

Eating the imposition, however, the success of
these women is as well warranted as that of their
genuine French rivals. In both, that success he—
comes the natural and merited punishment of the
silly and vulgar creatures (for there is a vulgar of
all ranks), Who, instead of enhancing their beauty
by the ﬁtness of dress, deteriorate it by fashions

 

APPENDIX. 431

which they run after with the mob, and which
alone would render them vulgar if they had no
other claim to vulgarity, in that want of mind
Which knows not how to consult individual beauty
and turn even vulgar fashions to its purpose.

Happily, a new era has lately commenced. En—
lightened women of all ranks begin to extract,
from the fashion of the mob, only what suits their
individual forms and features: all begin to under-
stand the inﬂuence of the various forms of dress
upon the ﬁgure'and the features, and that of the
various colours of dress upon the complexion.—
One of the most fashionable dresSmakers, a few
days ago, said, “ We are now ﬁnding out that all
imitation is vulgar, "seeing that no two persons are
alike 1”

Accordingly, in walking at the west end of the
town, about ﬁve o’clock during the season, we
meet many ladies Who, without entirely abandon—
ing the vulgar fashion, yet admirably modify it,
or boldly depart from it, to suit their own ﬁgure,
features, or complexion. These ladies may know
little or nothing of the general principles of dress
which are here delivered, and which are applicable
to every one; but each has at least more or less
perfectly discovered what suits her individually;
and it is often delightful to observe the ingenuity
With Which this is applied.

The ladies are now numerous who purchase no
article of dress merely because it is of a shape or a

 

 

 

 

432 APPENDIX.

colour Which is preferred by the vulgar Who follow
every fashion, but Which would destroy all preten-
sion to beauty on her own part. Such errors
are now committed only by the most ignorant

' and tasteless persons. On the contrary, it may

be extensively observed that ladies of the most
reﬁned taste are distinguished, especially as to
promenade dress, by the simplest and chastest
costume; and so surely is this the case, that if
any one happen to follow a lady Whose dress is
marked by these characteristics, and Which pre-
sents sombre and in themselves less agreeable
colours, he may almost certainly predict handsome
features and a beautiful complexion, because these
colours, ifjudiciously chosen, render almost every
complexion striking and brilliant.

When ignorant people, Who understand not the
meaning of such a choice of forms and colours,
Observe such unexpected beauty, their surprise is
expressed in exclamations, and they never fail, in
their ignorance, to add, “ HOW much more beau-
tiful she would be if the forms and colours of her
dress were prettier,”—that is, more gaudy ! Their
mistake is gross and vulgar 5 and. the frequent oc-
casion of it is a proof that, at least among certain
classes, public taste is rapidly improving.

THE END.

 

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