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Intercolonial ♦

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ALONG THE SHORES

OF THE

LOWER ST. LAWRENCE

AND THROUGH THE

PROVINCES BY THE SEAHONOURABLE JOHN GRAHAM HAGGART

Minister of Railways and Canals, Canada.

COLLINGWOOD SCHREIBER, C.E., C.M.G.

Deputy Minister and Chief Engineer of Railways and Canals, Ottawa, Ontario.

INTERCOLONIAL RAILWAY OF CANADA

D. POTTINGER, General Manager Government Railways, Moncton, N.B.
P. S. ARCHIBALD, Chief Engineer -

JNQ. M. LYONS, General Passenger Agent -	“

J. J. WALLACE, General Freight Agent -	“

F. R. F. BROWN, Mechanical Superintendent -	“

THOS. WILLIAMS, Treasurer and Chief Accountant -	“

T. Y. COOKE, General Storekeeper -----	“

The Intercolonial Railway is the DIRECT ROUTE to the Fam-
ous Seaside and Fishing Resorts of the Lower St. Law-
rence and Baie des Chaleurs, and of New Brunswick,
Nova Scotia, Prince Edward Island, Cape Breton and the
Magdalen Islands.

NEW and ELEGANT BUFFET PARLOR AND SLEEPLNG CARS with
Careful and Polite Attendants are run on Through Express Trains.

The Intercolonial is Unequalled for Comfort and Safety in its Passenger Train
Equipment.

Through Express Trains are Brilliantly Lighted by Electricity, and Heated by
Steam from the Locomotive.

The Westinghouse Automatic Air Brake is on all Passenger Train Cars and
Engines.

SAFETY, SPEED AND COMFORT.

ROUND TRIP TOURISTS* TICKETS, SUMMER EXCURSION AND
SEA BATHING TICKETS

GOOD FOR PASSAGE BETWEEN FIRST OF JUNE AND LAST OF OCTOBER

Are for Sale at all Principal Railway and Steamboat Agencies in Canada and

the United States.917, !

I y\ 8 i 3

This is a Preface.

®

HAVE been told that there are well authenticated instances of people
V who read all that was worth reading in the first edition of this book,
because they liked the preface. While this is less remarkable than
if they had read the preface because they liked the book, it is pleasing
to any getter up of guides to know that anybody but himself and the proof
reader will peruse his work, just as if it were a Book of Jokes, or one of
Zola’s realistic narratives of life among the lowly. In the consciousness of
this, he can rise superior to the author of the biggest dictionary on earth.
With this intent there is a preface to this edition, though there is nothing
to be explained, and no earthly need of an introduction of any kind.

I have no idea how many editions of the Intercolonial Guide have been
sent out, but the rapidity with which they have been exhausted, proves that
a book, well printed and nicely illustrated, will not fail to have a large circu-
lation, if it is distributed free of charge, and the distributor is as active as he
ought be. A knowledge of this should bring much comfort to young and
struggling authors.

This is the third revision of the original story. It was all true enough
in the first instance, but this is a great and growing country, and every
year brings changes. Even if this were not so, it would be impolitic to tell
so much that nothing could be added. Men who write guide books must
live with an eye to the future.

While the present edition contains much that was in the others, either
word for word, or disguised with more or less ingenuity, a large amount of
really fresh matter has been scattered through the pages in such a way that,
to be sure of finding it all, the whole book must be read. It may also inter-
est the compilers of certain other guides to know that some typographical
errors, which they have been copying without credit, have been corrected so
as to make the matter more worthy of appropriation than in the past.

Apart from any fresh errors that may occur this time, the following
pages do not tell half the truth. That is because there is not room for it.
ATo book can say, in reasonably brief compass, all that ought to be said of
this country and its attractions. If it successfully hints at what may be
enjoyed, the traveller can have plenty of fun in finding out the rest for
himself.

9614324

As far as space would allow, I have tried to be truthful, and have, in
some instances, put the figures in fish stories considerably below those fur_
nished by the men who said they weighed and counted the fish. While their
statements were probably true, a stranger might be disposed to doubt them,
and so have a distrust in regard to other allegations which it is important he
should believe, whether they are true or not. A few dozen, or even a few'
hundred fish, should not be allowed to interefere with the more important
interests of a great national highway.

If there is anything else about which the reader is in doubt, further
explanations may be had by addressing

W. KILBY REYNOLDS.

St. John, N.B., May, 1893^ gamble and a Pest

®

nthan a generation ago the Maritime Provinces of Canada were as far
removed from the ordinary course of tourist travel as is the Island
of Newfoundland to-day. Within a score of years, even, their
beauties were unknown save to those who were willing to sacrifice
their comfort, journey without the aid of railways and rough it for hundreds
of miles in what was then, as much of it is now, a land of the forest and
stream. The railway era had begun, but there was little more than a begin-
ning. Here and there was a piece of road connecting two points, which were
then, and seemed destined to be, unimportant and slow of growth. Wide
gaps separated the principal cities, and a wider gap separated the provinces
by the sea from the rest of the great Dominion. The most convenient way
of reaching this part of the world from Quebec, or any point west of it, was
by a round-about railway journey through the United States, and thence by
a sea voyage to St. John or Halifax. The tourist who wrote a book came
occasionally, and found much to interest him. Then he went home, and told
the world what a quaint and curious country he had found by the shores
Down East. Under the most favorable circumstances he had seen very little
of it, but he knew more about it than most of his readers knew, and his story,
a burlesque though it might be, was an authority with the rest of the world.
Since then the times have changed.

In the meantime, busy hands were at work in the Provinces. The gaps
were closing. The construction of the Intercolonial Railway had been one
of the terms of Confederation, and year by year the work was pushed forward
until there appeared one of the most substantially constructed and best
equipped lines in the world. To-day there are about 1,200 miles of Gover-
ment Railway connecting the City of Quebec with the Maritime Provinces,
while the numerous connections, under the control of private companies, aid
in giving access to some of the most attractive places for summer travel
to be found on the continent of America.

In former years, before the American tourist had been awakened to the
possibilities of this country, the usual goal of summer journeyings was the
city of Quebec. Reaching that place the steps were retraced, and with
good reason, for beyond it, to the south and east, the map showed nothing to6

tempt the pleasure seeker any further. On the map of to-day may be traced
a line which stretches along the Lower St. Lawrence, through the famed
Metapedia Yalley, skirting the equally famous Baie des Chaleurs, and on
through New Brunswick and Nova Scotia to the city of Halifax. Arms reach
out here and there, reaching to St. John on the west, and Sydney, Cape
Breton, on the east, while still another branch traverses the G-arden of the
Gulf, known as Prince Edward Island. This is the Intercolonial Railway.
Built from a commercial point of view, the wonderful opportunities for the
health and pleasure seeker were never dreamed of in the early days. Now it
has become the great avenue of travel for those who seek rest and recreation
in a glorious summer land.

Not that there ever is a crowd or a crush, such as the true pleasure
seeker aims to avoid. In the area of territory reached by this railway there
are so many places which attract that the lover of the quiet in nature can
always find his peaceful haven. It is a country of refreshment and rest for
those who desire such, as well as a paradise for the fisherman and sportsman.
One can enjoy the solitude of nature, free from the intrusion of the crowd,
and yet have all the privileges of the daily mails and the telegraph. And
withal it is a part of the earth in which one may procure a maximum amount
of pleasure with a minimum of outlay.

To the world-weary tourist, who has been used to the confusion of the
conventional summer resort, there may come a vision of this country,—
a country which lies by the sea and is fanned by cooling breezes from
the ocean. In this land are green hills, shady groves and fertile valleys.
From the distant mountains the crystal brooks come leaping with the music
of gladness, and join with noble rivers in whose clear waters dwell lordly
salmon and scarce less lordly trout. Near at hand are forests, as yetcSO little
disturbed that the moose, caribou and bear, now and again visit the farm-
yards of the adjacent settlements, and gaze in bewildered surprise at the man
whose hand is raised to slay them. Along the shore, for hundreds of miles,
lie land-locked harbors, where even the frail bark canoe may float in safety,
yet be upon the waters of the ocean, and upon the smooth sand beaches of
which a child may venture into the buoyant salt water and fear not. In
this country is scenery at times of sweet pastoral simplicity; at times of sub-
lime grandeur. It is a land where civilization has made its way, and yet
not marred the beauty of nature. It is a country where the traveller will
find much that is novel, much that will charm, and much that will ever
remain to him as a sweet remembrance of a pleasant clime.

It is wholly a matter of choice as to what point is chosen by the traveller
for his entrance into this region which has so much in store for him. All
roads lead to it; but, if coming from the west, after having seen the great
cities, and the vast resources of the Upper Provinces, he will begin at the
beginning and start at a point of which the name and fame have reached to
every quarter of the globe.7

THE"CITY OF QUEBEC.

It is a restful place, and a fitting point from which to enter upon a land
which offers rest. It is unique among the cities of the continent. Could
one forget his past and live only in the thought of his surroundings, he might
imagine himself dropped down in some corner of Europe. To him who
has come from the busy cities to the south and west, everything is strange
and new. Other places anticipate the future ; Quebec clings fondly to the
past. It is well that it should be so, for, in this practical and prosaic age,
but few cities retain the halo of romance that surrounded them in their early
years. New York may afford to grow wealthy and forget New Amsterdam,
but the Quebec of to-day reminds one at every turn of the Ancient Capital
as it was in the centuries that are dead and gone.

The man who has read the story of Quebec, and is prone to attach a
sentiment to the ancient and historic city, should have his first view from the
water or opposite shore. There he will see the stronghold as it has been
pictured to him and as he has dreamed of it. The cliffs, the citadel, the
spires, the tin roofs glistening in the sunlight,—all seem very real to him,
and he longs to enter the city so rich in the legends of the past.

If he wanders through the Lower Town, it may be that the first thing to
attract his eye will be a church, bearing on its front the date of 1688. It
was begun in that year, and when, two years later, the people ascribed to
Heaven the scattering of England’s fleet, under Sir William Phipps, they
instituted the fete of Notre Dame des Yictoires, which title, upon the occa-
sion of a later victory, was bestowed upon the church. It is one of the monu-
ments of the city, but by no means the oldest, nor is it the lfess interesting
from the fact that it was reduced nigh to ruin in the fierce cannonading that
preceded the planting of the flag of England on the citadel. Then, having
seen this, let the visitor glance at the thrifty French farmers and their house-
holds, as they present a bright and animated picture of the present, market-
ing their wares in the open square near at hand. There is more to be seen
in the Lower Town, but let us hasten up the curious passage known as Break-
neck Stairs, take a turn to the left, and we are on what is historically
holy ground.

There is so much to be seen that only the local guides can point it out,
and even they are often sadly lacking. Everywhere are monuments of a
strange and eventful history. Yonder is the Basilica, or French cathedral,
begun in 1647, when gay Louis XIV, was king, and the star of France shed
a bright light over the eastern and western worlds. The edifice was conse-
crated in 1666, and with the exception of the church at St. Augustine,
Florida, is the oldest on the continent. There are treasures within its walls,
apart from the golden vestments and rich ornaments, some of which have
been the gifts of kings. There are here rare paintings, some of them datingQuebec, from Levis, P.Q., on the Intercolonial Railway.	(See page 7).9

back to the time when French art received a new impetus under the protec-
tion of Henry IV. f and there, too, is Our Saviour on the Cross, by VanHyck.
In the troublous times of France, when neither art nor religion were held
sacred, faithful hands guarded these pictures and placed them beyond the
reach of the vandal mob. Later, they were brought to the new world‘and
placed within the old cathedral, and there it is fitting they should ever remain.

Let us emerge from the venerable pile into the busy street, where the
bustle of the nineteenth century jars upon the ear. Just across the way is
the site of th6 Jesuit college, founded in 1635, whence came forth the
discoverer of the Mississippi River, and others whose names can never be
forgotten. Among them were those brave, unselfish men, the Jesuit mission-
aries, who bore the cross into the trackless forest, to die amid torture, pray-
ing Heaven for the forgiveness of their savage foes.

Of a truth we tread historic ground. We are within the walls of one
of the most notable cities in America—one of the most famous places in the
world. There are cities which are more fair to look upon; there are some
which the mere pleasure seeker esteems more highly; and there are many
which have distanced it in the march of progress. There is but one Quebec,
—old, quaint and romantic,—the theatre which has witnessed some of the
grandest scenes i±x the dramas played by nations.

The story of Quebec is recorded in history, but no historian can do
justice to the theme. From the day when the fleet of the intrepid Cartier
ca$t anchor on these shores down to the hour when the last gun was fired in
anger from yoft batteries, the story is a romance which fiction cannot surpass.
VvThat scenes of hope and fear, of deep patience, undaunted courage, and
unflagging zeal, have these old rocks witnessed. What dreams of ambition,
what bold projects for the glory of God and the honor of France, have here
been cherished. Hither, from across the sea, came heroes. Some sought
fame, and found nameless graves ; some grasped for wealth, and miserably
perished; while some, animated solely by a zeal for the cross, won martyrs
crowns in the distant wilderness. For a century and a half the banner of
France waved on this rocky height. Priest, soldier and citizen had followed
the “star of empire” to the western world and found themselves in another
Franco, of wdiich Quebec was to be the Paris, and within the vast territories
of which should arise a mighty nation. Here was the seat of the power of
France in America; within these walls were held the Councils of State ; and
from these rocks went forth the edicts for the temporal and spiritual
guidance of the people.

For nearly a century and a quarter the English flag has floated over the
citadel, but the language, customs and religion of France remain. The Van-
dalism of modern improvement has not spoiled the features of Quebec. Some
of the old historic buildings are gone, but many remain. We may still view
the solid masonry of two centuries ago. We may stand where the people of10

the Ancient Capital stood to praise God for deliverance from the invaders;
we may linger amid the shadows of the old Cathedral, among rare old paint-
ings by master hands, and think of the days when these walls echoed the Te
Deums for the victories of France. We may roam through queer, crooked
streets, and enter quaint old houses, in the dark corners of which we almost
look for ghosts to come to us from the by-gone centuries.

Of all the French settlements in Canada Quebec best retains its ancient
form. The hand of time has swept away the ruins of Port Royal, and the
grass grows over what was once the well nigh impregnable Lbuisbourg ; but
Quebec remains, and will remain, the Niobe of the cities of France in the
western world, Here lives Europe in America ; here the past and the present
meet together; here the seventeenth and nineteenth centuries jostle each
other in the narrow streets.

Everyone visits the citadel, and is impressed with the wonderful natural
advantages of the position. Had Montcalm remained within these walls, the
courage of Wolfe would have been displayed in vain. As it was, fifteen min-
utes changed the destiny of New France, and made two names inseparable
and immortal. Ascend the bastion and the panorama of the St. Lawrence
and its shores is simply superb. Here one could sit for hours

“And come and come again,

That he might call it up when far away.”

To see the places usually visited outside of Quebec, one may employ a
carter to advantage. There are plenty of them, and some of the local guide-
books give them a high character for honesty, but the safe course is to make
an agreement as to price before starting, which agreement is arrived at by a
species of Hutch auction, commencing at the figures named by the carter and
bidding down until a fair price is reached. The more carters there are pre-
sent the more interest is attached to the proceedings, and the better chance
there is of a good bargain. The men, as a rule, are cheerful and obliging, so
much so, that when you trust to them as guides, they will tell you more than
the historian and geographer ever dreamed of in their philosophy. A book
written by a foreigner on the basis of a carter’s narrations would be a very
readable volume.

Outside of the city you will drive to the Plains of Abraham, and picture
out the scene of that eventful morning in September, a century and a quarter
ago. The inscription on the side of Wolfe’s monument is as graphic and
expressive as any sentence in the English language : “ Here died Wolfe
victorious ! ” It speaks volumes in the compass of a breath ; it is sublime in
its brevity.

Let those who love a scene of tranquil beauty go at the close of a day in
summer to the Hufferin Terrace and linger during the long twilight of the
evening. The heat and glare have passed away, and a gentle breeze comes11

from the river. The last rays of the setting sun are gilding the hills on the
shores beyond, while the line of the distant mountains is blending with the
sky. For miles and miles the eye follows the river as it flows in sileht
grandeur to the sea. Distant sails seem like the white wings of sea birds,
while “ day in melting purple dying,” lulls the mind into a dreamy calmness.
The shadows deepen. The lights of Levis begin to cluster; the houses in
the Lower Town are becoming more ghostly in the gathering darkness; a
sound of soft music comes from an open casement. We are amid scenes
fraught with strange memories. Here stood the stately Castle of St. Louis,
where, for two hundred years, the French and English rulers held their court.
Its glory departed amid a whirlwind of fire. Far below we can trace the out-
line of a street. It is Champlain Street. How black it looks ; it reminds
us of the darkness of that winter morning long ago, when Richard Montgomery
and his men rushed through it to their death. Everywhere around us have
the horrors of war been felt ; and to-night all is so peaceful that the
thought of war seems out of harmony with the scene. The bells from the
shipping in the harbor sound musically through the quiet air; the plaintive
notes of the bugle are borne to us from the citadel; and the flash and roar
of the evening gun tells of night fallen upon the Ancient Capital.

Poets have sung of Quebec, but it is a poem of itself which no language
can express; its memories linger in the mind like the sweet remembrance of
harmonious music heard in the years long passed away.

THE LOWER ST. LAWRENCE.

It has cost the British Government millions of dollars to construct the
system of fortifications that crown the heights of Levis, on the opposite side
of the river from Quebec. The chances are that the guns will never be fired
in anger, and that ocean steamers, rather than cannon, will continue to yield
the smoke which casts the shadows on the broad and beautiful St. Lawrence.

The journey over the Intercolonial Railway begins at Levis, and for the
next two hundred miles or so the traveller passes through a purely French-
Canadian country. One after another the typical villages come in view, with
their low-lying buildings and quaint cottages, built to withstand the keenest
cold of winter. In the midst of these looms up the church, usually a sub-
stantial edifice of stone, while here and there a large wayside cross, on some
distant hill, stands out in bold relief against the sky. A quiet people are
these habitants of the Lovrer St. Lawerence, simple in their tastes, primitive
in their ways, and having an abiding devotion to their mother tongue and
mother church. The opening up of the country has changed them a little
in the larger villages, but as a whole they are much as they have been for
the last two hundred years. Their ways are nearly as the ways of their fathers.
The railway and telegraph of the nineteenth century run through a country

I12

in which hundreds of people are to all intents and purposes in the seventeenth
century. Not to their disrespect be this said, but as showing the tenacity
with which they adhere to their language, manners and customs. They are
as conservative as any people on earth. Where innovations are thrust upon
them by the march of progress they adapt themselves to the changes; but
where they are left to themselves they are happy in the enjoyment of the life
their fathers led, and are vexed by no restless ambition to be other than they
have been, Their wants are few and easily supplied; they live peaceful and
moral lives ; and they are filled with an abiding love for their language and
a profound veneration for their religion. JBy nature light-hearted and viva-
acious, they are optimists without knowing it. Inured to the climate they
find enjoyment in its most rigorous seasons. French in all their thoughts,
words and deeds, they are yet loyal to the British crown and contented unde1"
British rule. The ancient laws are secured to them by solemn compact; and
their language and religion are landmarks which will never be moved. In
places where the English have established themselves, some of the habitants
understand the language of the intruders, but none of them adopt it as their
own. The mingling of races has a contrary effect, and the English tongue
must yield to the French. There are many Englishmen in this country
whose children do not understand a word of their father’s native tongue ; but
there are no Frenchmen whose children are ignorant of the language of
France.

Where the advent of the tourist has not robbed the native of his sim-
plicity of character, he is likely to make a favorable impression on the
stranger. He is the type of a peculiar people, many of whom are in very
humble circumstances. Among the elders books are often sealed mysteries ;
it is enough for them to know what their church teaches, and for them to
obey it. Their condition of life is not such as conduces to refinement, but
they have much of that true politeness which is dictated by sincerity, and
they seek to fulfil the stranger’s wishes as a matter of plain duty.

One of the most familiar sights, on the train, at the stations or trudging
along the highway, is the sombre-garbed French priest. The village cure is
a man whom it is a pleasure to meet. Well informed, affable, and a lover of
the land in which he lives, there is nothing of the ascetic in his nature. His
lot may not be cast amid the surroundings of which he once dreamed, but
wherever he may be his life is one of devotion to the cause of his faith. He
is of necessity a guide and counsellor in many things apart from his priestly
functions, and his people are ever ready to heed him. He is a pastor whose
life is devoted to his flock.

Passing a number of picturesque villages, the first summer resort of any
note is Kamouraska, reached from St. Paschal station, which is 89 miles from
Levis. Before reaching the latter point, one may stop at Ste. Anne, where
there is a college, accommodating abotit 300 students, and where there is a13

convent of the Grey Nuns. If he is interested in local traditions, and has
read Abbe Casgrain’s story of La Jongleuse, he may visit Riviere Ouelle,
which takes its name from the tragedy of which Madame Houel was the
heroine in the day when the Iroquois roamed these shores. There he may
see the rocks on which, it is said, the tracks of snowshoes and the imprints of
human hands and feet were visible in former years.

A drive of five miles from St. Paschal brings one to Kamouraska, a vil-
lage beautifully situated on the shore of the St. Lawrence. It is located on a
point which reaches seaward, and has a fine, well sheltered sand beach about
half a mile in length. The visitors here are largely those who own or hire
cottages by the season, and who seek for more quiet and rest than can be
found at the larger watering places. Of recent years many strangers have
found out the beauties of the place, and it is becoming more popular every
season. It has great natural advantages, and the bathing is especially good.
A number of picturesque islands in the vicinity afford additional pleasures to
boating parties. Kamouraska has much to commend it to the tourist.

At many places along this shore, only a narrow strip of land separates
the St. Lawrence from the head waters of the river St. John and its tribu-
taries, in New Brunswick. These places affording as they do ready means of
communication, are called portages. Twenty miles below St. Paschal this
distance between the waters is twenty-six miles, and hence the name of the
village of Notre Dame du Portage. It is a quiet, retired spot, but its fine beach
and excellent facilities for bathing make it a very enjoyable resort for the
families who spend their summers there.

RIVIERE DU LOUP.

Nobody ever stopped at Riviere du Loup because the first impression of
the village, as seen from the railway station, gave the idea of a popular sum-
mer resort. There is a railway look about the place, and with good reason^
for it is an important point on the Intercolonial, and before that road was
built it was the eastern terminus of the Grand Trunk line. Here also" are
the general offices of the Temiscouta Railway, which runs into New Bruns-
wick and connects with the systems that open up the western part of that
\ province. Yet Riviere du Loup is a summer resort as well, and one of long
established reputation. A long and somewhat hilly road leads from the
station to what, though apparently a part of the village, is known as Fraser-
ville, in honor of the family of Fraser, in whom the seigneurial rights have
long been vested. Beyond this again is the St. Lawrence, with all its splen-
did privileges of bathing, boating, shooting, and fishing, in the proper seasons.
Most of the leading men of Canada, including its governors-general, have
spent portions of their summers here, and they have all been pleased with
the place. Apart from its own attractions, it is a very convenient centre14

from which one may go to various points, either by the water or back into
the woods where fish and game abound, making this the headquarters for the
deposit of luggage and the receipt of mail matter. Whilst he remains here,
however, there is much to attract him. The views are charming, the walks
and drives varied and beautiful, the bathing facilities excellent, while
the shooting and fishing in the immediate vicinity afford ample recreation.
Fine views may be had fro nmany points. Situated near the con-
fluence of the Riviere du Loup and the St. Lawrence, and [being on the
shore of the latter, the place abounds in picturesque scenery of all kinds.
Near the railway, the smaller river has a descent of more than 200 feet, by a
succession of falls which make their way through a gorge over which high
and precipitious rocks stand sentinel. Jn the vicinity, “hills peep o’er
hills,” clothed in all the varyinghues of green, while toward the St. Lawrence
the open country, sprinkled with well finished houses, makes a pleasing con-
trast to the rugged aspect of the land which lies in the rear. Upon the
shore a glorious prospect is open to the view. Here the estuary widens in
its journey to the sea, and the mountains on the northern shore, a score of
miles distant, stand-out" in bold relief against the clear blue sky. Upon the
waters just far enough away to “ lend enchantment to the view,” are the
white-winged argosies of commerce, bearing the flags of every maritime
nation. At times a long, low shape on the waves and a dark, slender cloud
floating lazily away mark the path of the ocean steamship. Nearer the
shore are smaller craft of all sizes and shapes—manned by fishers, traders,
and seekers after pleasure. If one longs to join them, a boat is at hand and
soon is dancing on the gentle billows, while the sea birds skim the waters in
their circling-flights, and the solemn-eyed loup-marin rises near at hand, van-
ishes and rises again, as if sent by Neptune to demand the stranger’s errand.
Jt was from these creatures, some say, that the river derived its name, rather
than from the ill-visaged wolf of the forest.

The waters abound in all kinds of creatures, great and small. The chief
of these is the white whale, the Beluga Borealis, which is usually, but erron-
eously, termed the white porpoise. Its length is from fourteen to twenty-two
feet, and each carcass yields something over a hundred gallons of oil. This
oil, when refined, is worth about a dollar a gallon, and as there is no scarcity
of the creatures, the fishery might be made a very valuable one. The halibut
and sturgeon come next in order of size, after them the salmon, and then all
the small fish common to this latitude.

Returning to the shore, if the day is bright and warm, the long line of
smooth beach, abounding in cosy nooks and corners, invites a bath. The
adjective “warm” is the correct one for this part of the continent in the
summer, it being a relative term which denotes an absence of cold without an
excess of heat. It is never hot here. The days when coats, collars, and
cuffs become a burden and humanity wilts in the shade are unknown on these15

shores. The rays of the midsummer sun are tempered by gentle breezes,
which invigorate the system, and a gambol amid the waters causes a degree
of exhilaration which once enjoyed is not soon forgotten.

ACROSS THE BROAD RIVER.

Steamers calling at Riviere du Loup furnish opportunities for visiting the
more notable watering places on the northern shore. Mention may be made
of Murray Bay and Tadousac, but by far the most wonderful sight for the
tourist is the famed Saguenay River. It is one of the most remarkable of
i^ature’s works in a continent where natural wonders abound. Bayard Taylor
has described it as a natural chasm, like that of the Jordan Yalley and the
Dead Sea, cleft for sixty miles through the heart of a mountain wilderness.”
This terse description is a word photograph, but he who would grasp the
details of a strange picture must see the Saguenay itself. Its waters, black
and silent, have vast depths. The river is said to be deeper, by 600 feet,
than the mighty St. Lawrence into which it empties. There are people of the
country who believe its depths cannot be fathomed, and they tell of thousands
of feet of line which have been paid out in the vain attempt to find bottom in
certain places. Let one imagine such a river flowing between walls of rock,
which tower in places to a height of nigh 2,000 feet, and he will realize the
significance of such names as Cape Trinity, Cape Eternity and Eternity Bay.
In the majesty and gloom of such surroundings, the reflective mind must
ever feel the most profound reverence and awe.

At the mouth of the Saguenay is Tadousac, a wonderful old settlement,
with enough eventful history of its own to supply material for a volume, were
the records but available. It is undoubtedly the oldest European settlement
in Canada, and perhaps in America. Before Champlain began to build
Quebec, it existed. Nay, before Jacques Cartier left St. Malo to find out
Canada, near four centuries ago, Tadousac was the resort of the Basque
fishermen, whose fathers had resorted thither before them. One writer, W.
H. II. Murray, has evolved the theory that not only were the Basques here
before Columbus was born, but that their ancestors, the sea-roving Iberians,
visited this harbor even before Christ was sent to man or Rome was founded.

So it is with profound reference that one looks upon this spot, which is
historically older than the country of which it is a part. It was the ancient
metropolis of Canada, the chief trading station before one of the cities of to-
day had sprung into existence. Here was erected the first stone house, and
here, too, was the first church. The present structure, a modern affair dating
back scarcely 150 years, is built upon the site of the first place of worhip, and
it is said that the Angelus is rung out to-day with the bell by which it was
sounded well nigh four hundred years ago.

It is of this bell that a strange story is told—a story not made mythical16

by its antiquity, but coming so near our own times as to be told by those now
living who heard it from those who were living then. It has appeared in
various forms, but so far as is known, not in such a way as to be accessible
to the ordinary traveller. For this reason, and because it is worthy of preser-
vation, an outline is given here.

In all that pertains to the history of Canada from the advent of Cartier
until the cession to England, religion is everywhere interwoven. The courage,
zeal and self-devotion of the Jesuit missionaries will be remembered while the
world endures. They never wearied or looked back, and long after the confis-
cation of their property and the suppression of their order they continued
their labors among the savages. The last of the Jesuits in Canada is believed
to have been Pere Coquart, whose grave is at Chicoutimi, nearly a hundred
miles up the Saguenay. With him in his labor of preaching the Gospel was
Pere Jean Baptiste Labrosse, a goodly—nay, from all that is told, a saintly
man, whose tomb is at Tadousac. For nearly thirty years the gentle Pere
Labrosse wrought to bring the Indians to a knowledge of the cross, and in
1782 he had reached the allotted age of three score years and ten, yet, as with
Moses, “his eye was not dim nor his natural force abated.” On the 10th of
April in that year he spent the evening with his friends at Tadousac, but at
nine, o’clock he arose from their midst, with a look of strange peace on his face,
and bade all farewell until eternity. He would die at midnight, he said, and
when his spirit left the flesh the church bell would toll to tell his people that
he was gone from among them. He departed. At midnight the bell tolled,
the people hastened to the church, and there before the altar, as if in a peaceful
sleep, Pere Labrosse lay dead. At the same hour that night, in every settle-
ment where the departed missionary had preached, from the head waters of
the Saguenay to the Baie des Chaleurs, the bells of the churches, tolled by
invisible hands, bore to his converts the tidings of his entering into rest.

When the morning came a dense darkness overhung the Saguenay. On
the St. Lawrence a fearful storm was raging, and the huge masses of drifting
ice threatened destruction to any craft, even within the well sheltered harbor.
Yet Pere Labrosse had directed that a boat be sent to lie aux Coudres, sixty
miles distant, that Pere Compain might come to Tadousac and inter his
remains with the forms of the church. Four men, firm of faith, launched a
canoe, and as it advanced the ice floes parted, leaving smooth water for its
passage. So it was until lie aux Coudres was reached, and there, on the
shore, stood Pere Compain, who told them of their errand before they could
announce it. The bell of his church had tolled at midnight, a voice had
spoken, telling of the death of Pere Labrosse, and of the mission of the four
men who would come to the island. Such is the story of the good Jean
Baptiste Labrosse and the bell which rings to-day in the little church which
stands near the shore in the harbor of Tadousac.

From the Saguenay back to Riviere du Loup is a pleasant trip of aHotel Frontenac, Quebec.18

summer day. The air is so clear that the view of both shores is at all times
such as to charm the eye. On the north side are the Laurentian Mountains,
which reach from Labrador to the remote regions of Lake Superior, and
along these shores attain their greatest height, rising to 2,000 feet at Cape
Tourmente. With certain conditions of the atmosphere, singular mirages are
sometimes seen as the south shore is approached, and one in particular, among
the islands of the Riviere du Loup and Kamouraska, is worthy of special note.
All the lower St. Lawrence is full of beauty, as well as rich in historical
reminiscences and traditions.

FORESTS AND STREAMS.

Taking Riviere du Loup as a centre, the sportsman has a field only limi-
ted by his time and inclination to shoot and fish. Nature has been prodigal
in her gifts, and though Indians and their white brothers have made sore
havoc among the creatures of the woods in the past, enough remain to employ
the hunter for generations to come. In one respect, however, an unbridled
license to kill in former years has had its effect. The moose, king of the
North American forests, was once to be found in every part of the country.
It retreated gradually before the advance of civilization, but less than a gen-
eration ago vast herds of these creatures were to be found in the Metapedia
valley, where they were an easy prey to the pelt hunters. Pu rsued in season
and out of season, run down by all means fair and foul, they were still abun-
dant when the British troops came to Canada at the time of the “Trent
affair,” in the latter part of the winter of 1862. Moccasins were needed for
the soldiers, and to procure them the Indians sought the Metapedia and
entered on their work of slaughter. Hundreds of the noble animals were
slain, stripped of their hides and left to rot in the woods. For months after-
wards the air was tainted with the odor. It is not strange that the moose
forsook the valley. They are still to be found in more distant haunts, and
under the game laws of recent years they can no longer be openly and need-
lessly slaughtered as of yore. For some years the shooting of the female
moose was wholly prohibited by the Province of Quebec. The close season
for both moose and caribou now is from the first of February to the first of
September. For deer the close season is from the first of January to the
first of October.

The caribou, game fit for any sportsman, are still to be found in large
numbers almost anywhere between St. Alexandre and Campbellton,. within
a short distance of the railway track. In some places this distance would be
two, and in others ten miles. Skill, experience and good guides, are neces-
sary to find them, but a sportsman who understands his business, and who
goes to the right locality, need not be susprised if he bring down as many as
twenty in a fortnight's hunt. To accomplish this, he must be prepared for19

his work and be ready to stand some fatigue. From Riviere du Loup he can
set out in a variety of directions for grounds which are known to be good.
One of these is in the direction of Temiscouata Lake, 38 miles distant, and
now reached either by highway or rail. Here is a sportsman’s paradise, amid
scenery of the most beautiful description, the forest abounding in game and
the lakes and rivers teeming with fish. Here one may live for weeks, and
never weary in his absence from the busy haunts of men.

All the forest to the south of this part of the railway affords good shoot-
ing. The sportsman can take his choice of going a long or short distance.
The back country of Maine can be easily reached from St. Alexandre, or one
may-go twenty miles from Riviere du Loup and find the St. Francis River,
and follow it to the St. John. From Elgin road or LTslet, the head waters
of the Restigouche and Miramichi may be reached. All these are i#. the
midst of happy hunting grounds.

Some of the best caribou hunting is to be had among the Shickshocks
Mountains, in Gaspe. This is the land of the caribou. In the depths of the
wilderness, amid mountains nearly 4,000 feet high, and surrounded by
scenery of the most wild and rugged character, is an abundance of rare
sport. This has been one of the resorts of Lord Dunraven, who has, indeed,
hunted in all parts of the country, meeting with excellent success. On one
expedition he started as many as forty-one caribou in three days. Of these he
and his party killed fifteen. H. R. H. Prince Arthur, during his visit, in
1869, engaged in a successful hunting expedition in these forests. They
have also'been visited by Count Turenne and other well-known sportsmen.

Other game may be had for the seeking. Bears sometimes make their
appearance when least looked for and often create lively episodes in the
sportsman’s journey. They can be found almost anywhere outside of the
settlements, and when blueberries are in season every big barren has a bear
for a visitor.

Partridges are very numerous. When a weak or lazy man goes after
them he has to take some one with him to carry the load home. So plentiful
are they near Riviere du Loup, that Wm. Fraser, Esq., the present Seigneur,
shot as many as fifty-four in one day, killing fourteen of them without moving
out of his tracks. To him who has carried a gun mile after mile for a whole
day and been proud to exhibit one unfortunate bird as his trophy, this may
appear like a tough story. N evertheless it is true. The man who goes after
partridges in this vicinity does not have to sneak home by a back road to
avoid the chaff of his neighbors for his bad luck. He stalks along with
pride in his face and a load on his back, and is only vexed that the spectacle
is too common to excite wonder.	’	,	«

Around the shores geese, brant and ducks of all kinds are found in
immense flocks, the soft fresh water grass, so abundant along the rivers, fur-
nishing an abundance of food in which they delight. The black and, grey20

auck, the curlew, the golden plover, and the English snipe, are very abundant
during the months of September and October. Isle Verte and Kamouraska
are favorite resorts for these birds, but there are many other places along
these shores where hundreds may be shot with ease.

' Much that has been said in regard to the hunting in this vicinity will
apply to the country along the next two or three hundred miles, or until long
after the boundary of New Brunswick has been passed. Biviere du Loup
has been singled out as a sample of what very many places are like as regards
their surroundings, and to avoid a reiteration of facts in connection with
other points.

So it is in regard to the fishing, which is of more immediate interest to
the summer tourist. The enthusiastic hunter regards not the weather, and
is willing to endure the cold and wet in his quest for game, but fish are to
be had when nature is at her loveliest in this glorious summer land. This is
a country of fish, and such fish ! One who is not a fisherman may eat them at
every meal on his journey. He may have halibut, salmon, herring, and smelt,
from the St. Lawrence, and salmon, tuladi, and sea, brook and lake trout from
the waters that are tributary to it. Salmon are found in nearly all the rivers,
and the majority of the streams are leased by the Government to individuals.
It is not difficult, however, for a stranger to obtain permission to fish. Trout
are found in all the rivers and lakes and are free to all comers. The usual
.size of those in the lakes is from five to six pounds ; in the river they run
from three to four pounds. All the trout of this region are very “gamey,”
and afford abundant sport. In the lakes is also found the tuladi, which
seems identical with the togue of Northern Maine and New Brunswick,
i Specimens have been caught weighing as much as forty pounds each, or as
large as a good sized salmon. The average weight of them in Temiscouata
Lake is 27 pounds. The tuladi has been confounded with the lake salmon
of Switzerland, and with others of the salmon family of Europe, but it does
not appear to be identical with any of them. It is usually very fat, and very
reserved—not to say lazy. It lurks and lies in the deep waters of the large
lakes as if given to contemplation rather than the gratification of appetite.
For all that, it is a voracious creature and has a sly way of approaching the •
surface in the cool hours of the morning and evening. It does not rise to the
fly, as a rule, but may be taken by trolling. It is good eating, though less
.delicate than either, the trout or the salmon.

Nearly all the lakes are free to fishers, for all kinds of fish.

CANOE AND PADDLE.

The Intercolonial has one feature which few, if any, railways possess to
the same extent. For a distance of several hundred miles it is intersected
by rivers easily navigable for small boats or canoes. By these natural high-Moose Hunting’along the Intercolonial Railway.22

ways one may pursue his journey far into the interior, ma ce a s lort portage
from the head-waters of one to those of another and descend the latter to the
lines of railway in New Brunswick. A glance at the map will show what
ample opportunities there are for this kind of recreation. Leaving the rail-
way and ascending one river, coming down another and up another, spending
days among the lakes, fishing, shooting, enjoying life to the utmost, one is as
much in the wilderness as if thousands of miles away. Yet all this time he
knows that, if necessary, a few hours will bring him to the railway, the mail
and the telegraph—to communicate with the busy world. He may leave
the railway on the shores of the St. Lawrence and make a canoe voyage to
the Baie de Chaleurs or the Bay of Fundy. When he arrives at his destin-
ation he will find his luggage and his letters awaiting him. The route may
be varied and the voyage prolonged as may suit the voyager’s taste. Notably
good fishing may be had at Lakes St. Francis and Temiscouata and on the
Touladi River; but on such a trip one may fish and hunt everywhere as he
goes. In the Temiscouata region alone one may make a canoe voyage for at
least eighty miles, and if he chooses can, by portaging, descend the great
Miramichi to the ocean. Portages can be made so as to reach any of the
three great rivers of New Brunswick, the Miramichi, the Restigouche, or St.
John, The whole country is open to any man who can sit in a canoe and
ply a paddle.

CACOUNA.

Six miles below Riviere du Loup is Cacouna station. The name has a
musical sound, but as seen from the cars there is little to attract the eye.
The Cacouna of which the pleasure seeker is in search is three miles distant,
and is reached by an easy drive over the smooth highway that descends to
the shore. Then the great watering place of the Lower St. Lawrence invites
the stranger to tarry and take his rest. “ Shall I not take mine ease in mine
inn *2 ” he asks, and truly he may, for here is an hotel conducted by men who
have made a study of the tourist’s wants, and who are prepared to supply not
only the comforts, but the luxuries of modern life. It is the St. Lawrence
Hall, with ample accommodation for 400 people and a capacity for half as
many more should occasion require. It is the resort of the best classes of
visitors, and its increasing popularity may be inferred from the fact that the
business of last season was the largest done for years. This is not a puff; it
is the truth.

The inspiration of those who have termed Cacouna “ the Saratoga of
Canada ” is not a happy one. Saratoga has no salt water, no panorama like
that of the Lower St. Lawrence, no fishing, shooting and bathing, and no
cool and invigorating breezes such as prevail here in the hot days of summer.
Cacouna, on the other had, has no mixed mob of people whose chief passport23

to recognition is the pecunia vulgaris of commerce, no sharpers who live by
fleecing their fellows, no exorbitant charges and no army of tip-seeking men-
ials who look upon the traveller as their prey. ' Thus it will be seen that all
comparison between the two places fails. Cacouna has an individuality, and
can stand on its own merits. These are not a few.

While the pioneer of the watering places on this shore, it was for a long
time the resort of only a favored few who knew of its beauties. Years ago,
before the railway was built, they came by steamer from Quebec and other
cities, were taken ashore by carts through the shallow water and had to put up
with such accommodation as they could get. The first hotel, a one story
building of the old time style, is still to be seen. There were, however, some
who had their summer cottages, and one of these was Mr. Haley, of Mont-
real, who continues to come each season to the house he occupied forty-five
years ago. Of late years wealthy Canadians have expended large sums in the
erection of cottages and the beautifying of grounds. Some of these, such as
that of Hon. John Ross, of Quebec, represent expenditures of from $25,000
to $30,000, while a number of others cost $10,000 and upwards. People like
the place because it is as healthy as it is attractive. The natural drainage is
perfect, and an abundance of living springs supply pure water. Some years
ago, Drs. Campbell and Howard, of Montreal, sought for a watering place
which they could recommend to their patients, and having analyzed the
water, gave Cacouna a trial. The effect was so marked that the doctors lost
no time in taking their own prescription, and numbering themselves among
the dwellers on the shore.

With the mountains on one side and an arm of the sea on the other the
air is very pure. It is so clear that one can scarcely believe the opposite
shore is twenty-one miles away, but it is fully that in a straight line to the
mouth of the Saguenay. So near do the distant hills seem that one might
feel tempted to start fiior them with nothing more than a boat and a pair of
oars.

In all of this part of Canada, while winter comes early and lingers late,
nature maintains a balance by the quickening power of the summer. Every-
thing that is planted has a rapid and vigorous growth. This is noticeable at
Cacouna, in instances where ornamental trees have been set out. English
willows have been known to grow at the rate of two, and even three feet a
year, and that in spite^of the rocks among which they were planted. Peter
Donnegan is responsible for the statement that such trees, planted by him on
the "grounds of Mr. Robert Hamilton, of Quebec, increased in seven years
from a height of eighteen inches to that of more than twenty-five feet.

Peter Donnegan is an authority on all that relates to Cacouna. He has
seen it grow and has ^helped to make it beautiful, “ I put flowers in the
place of thistles/7 is his boast, and he tells how great holes eight feet deep
and nine fin diameter, were made in the rocks, that he might plant the trees24

which cast a grateful shade to-day. When he drove the carriage of the
Princess Louise from Riviere du Loup station to the wharf, she employed the
time by talking with him of the trees and wild flowers, and he was at no loss
for words to enlarge upon his favorite theme.

The name Cacouna has a sound suggestive of the waves and the shore,
but it has no such meaning. It signifies “ the place where many Indians are
buried.” One would think that there should be a legend connected with this,
but it is peculiarly aggravating to find that no one, not even the oracular
Donnegan, has any idea of the origin of the name. Ho ancient Indian graves
have ever been found here. The only place of burial whidh has any story
attached to it is on Cacouna Island, where the wild flowers grow undisturbed
on the grayes of fifteen shipwrecked sailors.

The St. Lawrence Hall is close to the shore, and overlooks a stretch of
beach a mile long, where may be enjoyed the bathing which has given the
village its fame. This big caravansary is the evolution of what was originally
known as Kelly’s Hotel, with indifferent accommodation for about forty
people. Its position, is well chosen, and in the height of the season it is a
busy place indeed.

So is the position of the village, on the shore of a graceful bay, with a
smooth beach of grey sand which stretches for a mile. All along are tasteful
private residences for summer use, while numerous other houses give accom-
modation to boarders. Many of the farmers own two houses, one of which
they occupy, while the other is leased for the season. In this way some of
them derive an income sufficient to support them in the lonely winter, when
the stranger has gone, and the natives sit alongside of two-storey stoves and
dream of the coming summer.

Good trout fishing is found in this vicinity. Trout Brook is the nearest
point, three miles distant, but still better results can be obtained by a drive
to the lakes, fifteen miles away, and which are reached by a good road.

Two miles from Cacouna is St. Arsene, the most convenient point from
which to reach Lake St. Hubert, twelve miles distant. In this lake are plenty
of speckled trout, with an average weight of from half a pound to one and a
half pounds, and which have a high reputation on account of their excellent
flavor.

Trois Pistoles is one of the places where the through traveller refreshes
himself with an appetizing meal at the railway dining room. The village is.
prettily situated, and there is good lake and river fishing in the vicinity.
Lake St. Simon, eighteen miles from here, is a beautiful sheet of water, and
merits special mention. The origin of the name of Trois Pistoles is more
obscure than even that of Cacouna. It may have been derived from the cir-
cumstance that the first settler gave three pistoles for a piece of land, from
somebody losing or finding that sum, or from a trade with the Indians in
which that amount changed hands. The antiquarian can choose the tra-
dition that seems most reasonable. There is no good authority for any of
them25

BIC! BEAUTIFUL BIC!

A village on the low land by the shore, with mountains separating it
from the country beyond, confronted the engineers when they sought to locate
the line of the Intercolonial at a point fifty-five miles below Riviere du Loup.
It was Bic, then as now well termed the Beautiful. To-day the railway winds
around the mountain, one hundred and fifty feet above the post road, passing
places where the rock was blasted to a depth of eighty feet that a bed might
be made for the track. On the one side the steep acclivity rises to a height
of two hundred and fifty feet above the passing train; on the other is a pan-
orama of bay, river and islets, which seem as the environment of an enchanted
summer land. From this height is seen the St. Lawrence, twenty-five miles
from shore to shore, and rapidly widening in its journey until it merges into
the world of waters.

It was from these heights, on a fair day in June, long years ago, that
anxious eyes watched a fleet of war-ships making its way up the St. Lawrence
Learer it came until the watchers could discern that it carried the flag of
France. There was joy in every heart. The long expected succor had
arrived from beyond the sea, and swift messengers made ready to carry the
glad tidings to Quebec. Suddenly, as they looked, the ensign of the leading
vessel was run down and the red cross of England fluttered in the breeze.
Having come thus far stratagem was no longer needed. The vessel was the
Richmond frigate, carrying General James Wolfe, and with him was an army
equipped for the conquest of Canada. The fleet cast anchor within sight of
Bic Island. Among the watchers on the heights was a priest, whose nerves
had been strung to the utmost tension with joy at the sight of his country’s flag.
When the dread truth was so suddenly revealed to him, nature could bear no
more, and he fell to the earth—dead.

Bic is one of the finest natural watering jflaces on the Lower St. Law-
rence. The mountains are around it, and it nestles at their feet amid a
wealth of beautiful scenery. There is more than a mere stretch of shore.
There is a harbor in which an ocean steamer may ride, a haven wherein
vesseW may hide from the wrath of the storm-king. Romantic isles lie amid
the waters, and crags of rugged beauty rear their heads around the bay.
Pleasant beaches tempt the bather; placid waters invite the boatman ; and
beauty everywhere summons the idler from his resting-place to drive or
ramble in its midst. The harbor is charming to one who first beholds it, and
“ time but the impression deeper makes.” ' It never becomes monotonous,
and each day one may find something new to admire among its inviting
nooks.

Had it not been for the fleet that lay at anchor beyond the island on
that midsummer day in 1759, Bic might have been a fortified town and its26

harbor a naval station. Such was one of the projects of France, and the
harbor would have been a safe and convenient rendezvous for the fleets in
these waters, for Bic is accessible at seasons when the ice bars the passage to
Quebec. It was here, in the bitterly cold winter weather of 1862, that England
landed men and munitions of war for the defence of Canada. It does not
seem, however, that Bic should have anything to do with war. Everything
is suggestive of pleasure and peace. Strangers are not numerous, but lovers
of beauty and seekers after rest have located summer residences in the village,
and year by year enjoy the cooling breezes. Fishing is in abundance ; and if
there were no fish, the streams winding their way among the hills, through all
kinds of picturesque dells, would well repay full many a toilsome tramp.

One of the islands near at hand is known as L’llet au Massacre, and
associated with it is a tragic story of Indian war. The tale is an old one.
Donnacona told it to Jacques Cartier, and it has appeared in a great variety
of forms ever since. Briefly stated, the tradition is that a band of Micmacs,
consisting of about two hundred men, women and children, heard of the
approach of a large party of hostile Iroquois, and fled for concealment to the
large cave which is to be seen on this island. This Iroquois discovered the
place of retreat, and finding themselves unable to dislodge their hidden foes
by ordinary means, resorted to a thoroughly savage expedient. Heaping dry
wood in and around the mouth of the cave, they advanced behind shields of
boughs, carrying torches of bark, and ignited the pile. The Micmacs were
forced to leap through the flames, and as fast as they appeared were slaugh-
tered. All who were in the cave were killed, and their bones lay bleaching
on the island for many a year thereafter. They were swiftly and terribly
avenged. Mr. Tache, in his Trois Legendes de Mon Pays, says that five of
the Micmacs were sent from the island at the first alarm, a part to demand
assistance from the friendly Malicites at Madawaska, and the others to act
as scouts. Twenty five Malicite warriors responded to the summons, but too
late to prevent the massacre. They then, aided by their five allies, secretly
followed the track of the Iroquois, and unseen themselves, dealt death among
the party as it proceeded. The scouts had previously removed the canoes and
provisions which the Iroquois had left in the woods, and so they marched,
dying by the hand of an unseen foe and threatened with famine ere they
could reach their own country. At length they reached the open woods,
near Trois Pistoles River, feeble and discouraged. The band had shrunk to
twenty-seven men. Finding traces of moose they began to hunt, and were
led into an ambush by the foe, who burst upon them and killed all but six.
These were made prisoners • one was tortured by the allies in the presence
of the other five. The latter were then divided, and the Malicites carried
their three to Madawaska. The Micmacs returned to Bic with their two,
and tying them with their faces to the island, put them to death with their
most ingenious torments. They then quitted Bic forever. Tradition has27

peopled the neighborhood with the ghosts of the slaughtered Micmacs, now
dancing on the waters, now moaning among the crevices of the rocks, shriek-
ing at times as with the agony of souls in pain.

Hattee Bay is another delightful spot, not far from Bic. The scenery,
though not so impressive as that of the latter place, is very attractive. One
of the features is a natural terrace, and the facilities for all kinds of exercise
and recreation are abundant. A number of English families reside at this
place, and it has many admiring visitors during the summer season.

RIMOUSKI AND THE HERMIT.

Many people know only of Bimouski as a place where the ocean steam-
ers receive and land mails and passengers on the voyage to and from England.
Anxious to depart or get home, they see little of the place beyond noting
that it is a thriving town, and that the pier running out to deep water is of
a most surprising length. It extends for nearly a mile, and is a most
agreeable promenade in summer days, when a constant cool breeze is borne
over the water.

The village of St. Germain de Rimouski, which is its full title, is a place
where the law and Gospel flourish, because it is the shiretown of the county
and the seat of the Bishop of the diocese. The cathedral, bishop’s palace,
seminary, convents, and other buildings devoted to religious uses, are
imposing structures of stone, erected at a large cost. The clergy are seen at
every turn, and the French language is heard in every house. Save at the
hotels and some public offices, the thousands of English who have passed
through Rimouski have done very little to leave the sound of their tongue or
the impress of their journey.

The Rimouski River is the first important salmon river below Quebec,
and it is under lease. Strangers who are sportsmen and gentlemen, have,
however, often been permitted to fish in its waters, which extend to a lake
elose.to the boundary of Hew Brunswick, and from which only a short
portage is necessary to reach the rivers Quatawamkedgwick (commonly known
as the Tomkedgwick) and the Restigouche, by means of which a canoe can
reach the Baie des Chaleurs. The salmon of the Rimouski are not of the
largest size, averaging less than twenty pounds, but there are plenty, of them,
us well as an abundance of trout. The latter fish are easily to be had by
those who go after them, for there are about fifty lakes, large and small,
within the county. At Seven Lakes, twenty-five miles from the village,
three men have caught forty dozen trout in three days. As for shooting, the
* woods are full of all kinds of game, from the caribou to the partridge.

The village offers many attractions to families who seek a quiet summer
with all the enjoyments of the sea side. There are excellent facilities for28

salt-water fishing, boating and bathing, the shore being protected from rough-
ness of water by the island of St. Barnabe, which lies a short distance off.

This island, which has borne its name since early in the seventeenth
century, is about two miles long, contains a small lake, is well wooded and
is a favorite resort for picnics. It has its story, and a very touching one.
There are several versions of it, but that given by Monseigneur Guay in Jbiis-
Chronique de Rimouski, is probably the most authentic. So far as can be
gleaned from all sources, this is the story of the hermit:

The fair land of Old France held no hearts more in unison than were
those of Toussaint Cartier and his betrothed Louise when the new year of 172J
dawned. Just turned of manhood, handsome in person, versed in knowledge
of books and agreeable in manners, he was the envy of the lads of his native
village. He had long known the beautiful Louise, and they had learned to
love each other with a love surpassing the power of words to tell. She was
the daughter of a rich man of high degree, who had pledged her at an early
age to the profligate son of his wealthy neighbor. Toussaint was poor, and
his poverty became a crime in the sight of the lucre-loving father, but, as is
ever the case, opposition served only to cement the stronger the affections of
the devoted pair. They were secretly married and embarked for Quebec, to
seek a home in the land of which so much had been told. The voyage
was a prosperous one. The ship reached the St. Lawrence and lay becalmed
off Rimouski. The day was fine and young Cartier took a boat to visit lie St.
Barnabe. While he was ashore a fearful tempest arose, and the vessel and
all on board were engulfed before his eyes. The body of Louise was soon
after washed ashore on the island, where Toussaint buried it and made a
solemn vow to dwell there in solitude for the remainder of his days. This
vow he faithfully observed, living a life of deep religious devotion, ye^tr after
year, until his locks were silvered with age. All who knew him revered hincg
even the birds loved him and came to feed out of his hand; but his heart
was broken, and he watched year by year pass by, counting each as a step
nearer to his reunion with the one of whose smile through life he had been so
sadly deprived. Forty odd seasons passed, and at length one January morn-
ing he was found lying dead on the floor of his humble abode. The lovers
were united at last. His remains were buried within the old church of
Rimouski, and to this day his name is honored as that of a holy man.

Six miles below Rimouski is Father Point, so' well-known as a telegraph
and signal station in connection with ocean steamers, and to it.,there is a
charming drive along the shore. Four miles above the town is the village of
Sacre Coeur, where there is a beautiful and well sheltered beach and admir-
able opportunities for boating and sea bathing.

Soon after leaving Rimouski the St. Lawrence is lost sight of, and the
road makes its way toward the Metapedia Yalley. Ste. Flavie, eighteen29

miles from Rimouski, is a place of some importance, and is the terminus of
the well-known highway, the Kempt Road, built at a heavy expense and so
long used for a mail route between the Upper and Lower Provinces. Here we
begin to take leave of the French pure and simple, and enter a country where
English is .spoken to a greater extent. In the midst of the woods is Little
Metis Station, not a place over which one could grow enthusiastic, but never-
theless leading by a road of about six miles to the beautiful watering place of

LITTLE METIS.

Three score and ten years ago the Seigneur of Metis was a Mr. McNider,
whose name has such a genuine Caledonian ring that no one will imagine that
he was a Frenchman. Warmly attached to the place, and fully impressed
with its beauties, there was yet one defect which grieved his heart. Nature
had neither located Metis in Scotland nor sent the Scotch to Metis. This
want he determined to supply, and the result was the arrival of several hun-
dred men, women, and children from Old Scotia, These were located in
several parts of the Seigneury, and aided by Mr. McNider until their farms
became adequate to supply their wants. Since then they have prospered,
and Metis is a flourishing farming district. What is more to the purpose of
the tourist, it is one of the most pleasant places on the shore for those who
are seeking to enjoy the summer months. Numbers have already found out
its beauties, but there is room for many more. It is at Metis that Lord
Mount Stephen has his famous fishing lodge, the finest in Canada, at which
the Duke and Duchess of Connaught were guests during their visit in 1890.
The building is designed with every regard to comfort, and a striking feature
of its interior is the finish of polished woods brought from the other extreme
of the Dominion on the Pacific coast.

Little Metis is situated on the shore of the St Lawrence, at a point where
the estuary begins to widen out so that the opposite shore is a faint line in
the distance and much of the horizon is as level as upon the ocean.- This
gives the place more of the air of a sea-side resort than many less favored
watering places, and the salt waves rolling in upon the sandy beach confirm
the impression. The beach is about four miles long, hard, smooth, and safe
for bathers. On some parts of it the surf beats with a sullen roar; yet num-
erous coves, sheltered from the swell, afford every security, as well as absolute
privacy, to the bather. Boats, of all sizes, from a skiff to a schooner, are
available to the visitor, and if one desires to run across to the other shore he
will find safe and swift vessels crossing every day. If a party desire to have a
good time and feel free and independent, they can charter a small schooner
for about $3 a day, secure a good sailing master, lay in a supply of pro-
visions, and go where they please. The St. Lawrence is between thirty and30

forty miles wide in this part, so there is plenty of room for excursionists at all
times.

On shore, in addition to the bathing, the attractions are abundant.
First of all there are good hotels, and the visitor has his choice. Board is
very reasonable, averaging about a dollar a day. If one prefer a private
boarding house, he can find good accommodation for about five dollars a week.
Besides this, nearly every farmer has a spare house which can be hired for
about $60 for the season, including water and fuel. The weirs furnish a
plentiful supply of fresh fish, while other provisions, including berries of all
kinds and dairy products, are to be had in abundance. A number of resi-
dents of Montreal and other places have villas here.

The Grand and Little Metis rivers are favorite haunts of the salmon, and
trout are found wherever there is a lake or brook. The best places to secure
the latter fish are at Metis Lakes, the nearest of which is about three miles
from the centre of the village. Further back is a chain of lakes, all contain-
ing plently of large trout, and all comparatively easy of access.

The country in the rear of Metis is a resort for herds of caribou. Geese*
duck, and sea-fowl are found all along the shore, while partridge are met with
in every part of the woods.

The scenery is varied and attractive. One may drive for miles along the
shore and enjoy the panorama and the sea breeze until weary. Inland, are
beautiful vales and nooks and brooks and ©harming bits of landscape. All ’
the farmers have waggons to hire, and drives may be had at a small expense.
One of these is to the falls, seven miles away. Here a heavy body of water
pours over the rocks with a grandeur which must be seen to be appreciated.
Both Grand and Petit Metis rivers have waterfalls, situated amid most
enchanting scenes of the forest.

Further along the shore is the Matane, a small river, but with an abun-
dance of salmon and trout. It was by this river, so long ago as the time of
Champlain, that the Indians of the Baie des Chaleurs reached the St. Law-
rence, by way of the Bestigouche and Metapedia rivers, making a portage
from Metapedia Lake. Matane is in favor as a summer resort, and like
Metis is accessible both by rail and steamer. There was fishing here before
the tourist came with his rod and flies, but it was purely commercial in it&
aspect. As long ago as 1688 Sieur Biverin established a fishery, and thrived
until his wicked partner defrauded him. He found all the shore, for a dis-
tance of sixty miles, very abundant in codfish, while whales were common
everywhere from Matane to Cap de Bosiers, a distance of nearly of 250 miles.
So plentiful were they near Matane that at one period, for the space of there
months, as many as fifty would be seen on the surface at one time, within
less than two miles from the shore. So tame were they that men could
approach near enough to hit them with oars. Sieur Biverin, filled with31

visions of wealth, formed a company to prosecute whaling, and succeeded in
getting swindled.

Leaving the St. Lawrence, the course of the traveller is south to the
Metapedia Yalley. Passing Tartague the railway, which has kept clear of
the mountain ranges by following the shore for two hundred miles, makes a
bold push and crosses the hills at Malfait Lake.| Here [the traveller is
nearly 750 feet above the sea, higher than he has been since he left Quebec,
and higher than he can be on any other part of the line. Down the grade
the cars go, until again on the level in the midst of a beautiful valley, where
the hills rise on each side six and eight hundred feet for a distance of many
miles. The French villages are no longer seen ; the French names are no
longer heard. In the place of the latter come the titles bestowed by the
Indians who once peopled the land. Some of these words are musical, after
you get used to them. No doubt they were musical to Algonquin ears when
uttered by Algonquin tongues; but the true pronunciation of many of them
is lost, and as the Indians had no wrritten language there is no rule as to how
they should be spelled. Some of them are believed to have had poetical
meanings, but there is a good deal more fancy than fact in many of the in-
terpretations. It is just as well, however, to attach some poetry to them, for
thus they are in harmony with the surroundings. The Metapedia really
should be the poet’s paradise. *

It is supposed to have been somewhere in this vicinity that the first and
last of the Aboriginal Spring Poets ventured to warble. His effusion is
believed to have consisted of a hundred and sixteen stanzas. He desired his
chiefs opinion as to their fitness for publication. The criticism was promptly
given, for, when the poet had reached the end of the fifth stanza, he was
gagged, tried and condemned to the stake, as a warning to spring poets for
all time. The summary judgment had its effect on succeeding generations,
and the Indian of to-day, even though warmed with Sabian wine, or North
Shore gin, is rarely prone to drop into poetry. Tradition says that the verses,
as recited, were :

ODE TO SPRING.

Hail, Metapediac ! Upon thy shore
The Souriquois may sweet seclusion seek ,

,	Cadaraqui distracts his thoughts no more,

Nor seeks he gold from Souleamuagadeek.

Hail, Keshpugowitk, calm Causapscal,

Tartague, Tobegote and Sayabec,

Amqui Wagansis, Peske-Ammik—all

The scenes which nature doth with glory deck.

At Assametquaghan and at Upsalquitch
The busy beaver builds his little dam ;

His sisters, cousins and his aunts grow rich
At Patapediac and Obstehquasquam.32

I’ve wandered by the Qua-ta-wam-kedg-wick,

The Madawaska and the famed Loostook,

The Temiscouata, Kamouraska, Bic ;	#

I’ve climbed the hill of Yillidadamook.

And everywhere do thoughts of spring arise,

Skudakumoochwakaddy speaks to Restigouche.

Hail, brother Mareschites and Abnakies !

Hail, balmy mouth of Amusswikizoos !

Gachepe, Kigicapigiok, Tracadiequash—

The exultant poet had not observed the gathering cloud on the chiefs
swarthy brow, and the hills echoed with his loud accentuation of the’ante-
penultimate. An instant later he was rudely seized, and Skudakumooch-
wakaddy, the Spirit Land, received him ere the set of sun. This was the
first and last appearance of the spring poet among the Red Men.

METAPEDIAC LAKE AND VALLEY

Beyond Sayabec lies Lake Metapediac. It is the noblest sheet of inland
water seen along the route. All lakes have a beauty which appeals to the
imaginative mind, but this, enshrined among the mountains, must impress
the most prosaic nature. . About sixteen miles in length, and stretching out
in parts to the width of five miles, its ample area gives it a dignity with which
to wear its beauty. Embosomed on its tranquil waters lie isles rich in
verdure, among which the canoe may glide amid scenes that wake the artist’s
soul to ecstacv. The shores are a fitting frame to so fair a picture. Here-
too, will the sportsman never ply his craft in vain. These clear waters are
the home of the salmon, and kings among the fishes await the_ anglers’
pleasure.

The outlet of the lake is the famed Metapediac River. It is usually
spelled without the final “ c,” and some use an “ a” instead of the first “e.”
It is a matter of taste, but it is highly probable no one of the three is like the
true Indian word. Cascapediac, for instance, is a corruption of Kigicapigiac
and probably the original of Metapediac is something even worse. It is well
not to be too particular, for this corruption of the native dialect is generally
an improvement, so far as relates to the ease of pixmounciation by the tongues
of white men. The name is said to denote Musical Waters, and the title is
well deserved. Thrqugh the green valley it winds in graceful curves, singing
the music of the waters as it runs. In thirty miles of its course it has 222
rapids, great and small, now swift and deep, now gently rippling over beds of
shining gravel and golden sand. Here and there are the deeper pools in
which lurk salmon of astounding size, for this is one of the salmon streams of
which every fisherman has heard. For mile after mile the traveller watches
the course of the river, so strangely pent in by the mountains on either hand,1

A Morning’s Catch on the Metapedia River, on the Intercolonial Railway34

rising in every shape which mountains can assume. Some are almost perfect
cones ; others rise swiftly into precipices ; and others have such gentle slopes
that one feels that he would like to stroll leisurely upward to the summit,
but the height, as a rule, is from six hundred to eight hundred feet. In some
places in the Metapediac the river, the highway, and the railway crowd each
other for a passage, so narrow is the valley. All kinds of foliage, and all
shades of N ature’s colors are upon the hillsides ; and in the autumn, when
the grand transformation of hues takes place, the effect is magnificent beyond
description. Grassy banks make easy the path of the angler, as the lordly
fish dart from the pools to seize his hook. Beauty is everywhere; here all
the charms of retirement can be found in a Northern paradise. Switzerland
lives in miniature amid the mountains, while England and Scotland are
around the lakes, streams and springy heather.

For year after year this glorious country was far removed from the path
of travellers, save those whose necessities obliged them to traverse the mili-
tary road to Ste. Fla vie. The building of the railway has opened it to the
world, and thousands are now familiar with it wThere hundreds had heard of
it in other years. It is a country which has attractions for all. Those who
seek the beautiful in Nature may here find it, while those who are disciples
of Nimrod or Walton will find the days only too short, and the weeks passing
away all too swiftly.

GUN AND ROD IN THE METAPEDIAC.

Some moose are still to be traced in the vicinity of the Metapediac valley,
but if one seeks for them he will do better by penetrating the wilds, of the
Gaspe peninsula. Caribou, however, are still to be found in abundance in all
parts of the country, and the trapper will be at no loss to find the haunts of
the beaver and many other fur-bearing animals. Partridge are to be had
everywhere, close to the line of railway, and very often can be shot without
leaving the. track.

The Metapediac owes its chief fame to the salmon fishing, which is found
everywhere for at least forty miles along the course of the stream, to say
nothing of the other rivers by which it is joined. One of these is the Causap-
scal, and some rare fishing is enjoyed at the forks, where the Princess Louise
once landed a forty-pound salmon. Further up, the Causapscal is rather
rough along its banks, and merits its name, which means, in the English
tongue, the Rocky River.

The Metapediac and its tributaries are not suffering for lack of apprecia-
tion. The fishing rights' are largely owned by wealthy Americans, who
spend their time and money without stint in the enjoyment of their alluring
sport. The Restigouche Salmon Club, composed chiefly of prominent citizens
of New York, has a splendid club house at the junction of the Metapediac
and Restigouche rivers.	.35

The best fishing in this vicinity is from the middle of June to the middle
of July. Trout may be caught with ease all through the season, not only in
the rivers but at such places as Amqui and Trout lakes. The Metapediac
trout are as large as some fish which pass for salmon in other countries.
Where forty and fifty pound salmon exist, seven pound trout are only in pro-
portion, as they should be. At Assametquaghan (a place more beautiful than
its name), at McKinnon Brook, and at Mill Stream, will be found particularly
good fishing. A party of two men has gone out of an afternoon and remained
until noon the next day, securing nearly 250 pounds of trout, each one aver
aging four pounds in weight, but many running as high as seven pounds.

The last of the. Metapediac is seen at the village which bears the name of
the river, at the junction of the Restigouche. It is a place of singular
beauty, and the eye lingers lovingly on the beautiful panorama as it passes
from the view and the train rushes onward to the boundary, of New Bruns-
wick. Here we catch sight of the River Restigouche, spanned by a beautiful
railway bridge, over a thousand feet in length. A few miles beyond, the
train passes through the tunnel on Morrissey’s Rock, on the side of Prospect
Mountain. This is the only tunnel through which trains pass, though, hidden
from the eye of the ordinary traveller, are a number of others by which rivers
have been diverted in the work of construction. There are, however, miles
of snow-sheds, which answer the purpose of tunnels, so far as linked darkness,
long drawn out, is concerned.

At the Head of the Tide a bright picture meets the eye. The river is
thickly dotted with low-lying islands, rich with meadow land, their hues of
green contrasting finely with the silver surface of the river. In truth this
part of the road is a succession of bright pictures—a panorama, wherein are
shown some of Nature’s fairest scenes. For seventy miles -or so the journey
has been through the valley, but when the Restigouche is reached there is a
change in the picture. In the fourteen miles that lie between the bridge and
the village of Campbellton there is much to admire in the broad river, dotted
with picturesque islands, and in the distant mountains, with their varied
hues, outlined against the northern sky.

A PROVINCIAL POSSIBILITY.

Campbellton, the first stopping place in New Brunswick, is a village with
great possibilities. It is conveniently situated, because it is a central point
on the line of the Intercolonial, neither too far south for the people who are
above it,-nor too far north for those who are below. It is 303 miles from
Quebec, 371 from Halifax, and 274 from St. John, and it lies amidst
one of the finest regions for sport on the continent. The Restigouche and
Metapediac, with their tributaries, afford only a part of the splendid fishing
to be had, while the land to the west and the north contains all manner of
game to entice the sportsman to its forests. Besides, Campbellton looks into

*36

the fair and famous Baie des Chaleurs, which is of itself worth coming from
afar to sail upon ; and it is convenient as a cool, but not cold, summer resort,
with every facility for salt-water bathing, salt-water fishing and a good time,
generally. The situation is beautiful, because Campbellton lies at a point
where a broad and beautiful river unites with the waters of a bay which has
no rival in Canada. Beautiful, because the mountains rise near and far, their
cones pointing heavenward with a grandeur not to be described, while the
varying shades are blended with a harmony which all may admire, but which
can be appreciated only by the artist. When Campbellton has a St. Law-
rence Hall, like that at Cacouna, it will be a place which no one can afford
to miss.

One of the finest views to be had is from the top of the Sugar Loaf, a
mountain about a mile and a half above the town. Do not be alarmed when
the people tell you that the summit is nearly a thousand feet high. The
highest measurement it ever got was by the reflecting circle of Sir Howard
Douglas, which gave 844. Later and better authority makes it 730 feet. That
is high enough to give you a magnificent view, and, as the mountain side is pre-
cipitous, you will be quite as tired as if you went up a thousand feet on any
ordinary mountain. After you get up, look to the north and the grand old
mountains of Gaspe are before you ; to the south is a smiling country rich in
vegetation j while to the southward and eastward lie the Restigouche and the
Baie des Chaleurs, with Dalhousie and the other flourishing places of the
North. The scenery has been called superior to that of the Susquehanna.
Whether it is or not can be best judged by those who have seen both places.
Another good view is to be had from the top of Morrissey’s Rock—in fact,
there are fine views everywhere, and no toll gates on the roads to them.

Across from Campbellton, on the northern side of the boundary, River
Restigouche, is Cross Point, the old Oiginagich, or Coiled Snake Point, of
the Micmacs, where Woodanki, or Indian Town, dates its beginning far back
among the centuries. There is now an Indian reserve of 840 acres, inhabited
by 120 families, with a population of about 500 natives, very few of whom do
not show an admixture of white blood. Here is a Roman Catholic mission,
which has been sustained for more than two hundred years. As long ago as
1675 Pere Chrestien Le Clerc used to come from Perce at Christmastide and
on Ste. Anne’s day, and he was the first to educate the savages and teach'
them the Christian faith. After twelve years of arduous labor, he was suc-
ceeded by Pere Peter Maillard, known as the “apostle of the Micmacs/
who came from one of the seminaries of Paris to make his home in the wilder-
ness. For forty years he labored among this benighted people, and having
mastered their language, translated nearly all the New Testament, as well as
all the prayers and offices of the Church. Later, he was made prisoner by
the English, sent to Boston and from there to France. Years afterwards the
English Government called him to Halifax to use his influence in keeping37

peace between the Indians and the white settlers. He was given a stipend of
$1,000 a year and a chapel, the first in Halifax, was built for him. All was
peace after his arrival, and during his remaining years he continued to labor
as a missionary along the hundreds of miles of coast which lie between Hali-
fax, Miramichi and Labrador.

Cross Point once sent an ambassador to England to persuade the Queen
that its people were entitled to more than they were getting. His mission
was not crowned with success, but, having tasted the delights of English city
life he remained abroad for many years, returning at last to his native village.
His name was Peter Basket.

The Indian population at Cross Point changes little from year to year.
An increase of forty or so is the record of half a century. Several years ago,
Sam Suke, the then chief, took a very gloomy view of the situation, and
declared that strong tea, wet feet and rum caused consumption anong his
people, and that the race was fast passing away. Some of the present gener-
ation appear very comfortable in the small frame houses which have taken the
place of the camps, and during the summer many of them earn good wages
by acting as guides, in which they are experts. The simple faith of the red
man is sadly misplaced at times, however, when by his improvidence he finds
himself very poor when the summer is past and the prospect of hunger and
cold faces him for the long and dreary winter.

Both boating and bathing may be enjoyed to any desired extent in the
waters around Campbellton, and the fame of the Restigouche salmon and trout
speaks as to the fishing. It was a Restigouche salmon that tipped the scale
at fifty-four pounds, and numbers have been caught which were of the respect-
able weight of forty pounds each. Salmon fishing begins about the middle
of May, and all the rivers abound with these great and glorious fish.

Fishing for the abnormally large trout already mentioned is had both in
summer and winter. It is usual to begin fishing through the ice about the
first of March. After the river is clear, early in May, plenty of five and seven
pound trout can be caught in the tide with bait. From the middle of May
until July they will take either fly or bait, but for good fly-fishing take the
month of July. Here are some of the favorite haunts : Escuminac, 15 miles
distant; Little Nouvelle, 22 ; Little Cascapedia, about 45 or 50 by steamer;
Parker Lake, 3 ; Head of Tide, 5 ; and Mission Lake, 3 miles from Cross
Point on the opposite side of the river. Guides are easily obtained and are
reliable men.

The rivers in question are on the north side of the Baie des Chaleurs, in
the Province of Quebec, and further reference is made to them on another
page. As regards the lakes in the immediate vicinity at Campbellton, the
man who seeks for trout will never be disappointed. The favorite resorts
are Parker Lake and inner Parker Lake, the former of which has a wide fame.
It is not a large body of water, as lakes go in this country, but in its length of38

half a mile or so every square yard would appear to contain a trout weighing
from half a pound to two pounds. It is of no avail, however, to go there
with fancy tackle and a book of assorted flies, for save at occasional times
in the month of June the fish will not be tempted to rise to the surface. The
favorite bait is the agile grasshopper, and it never fails to do its work. One
of the many instances of successful fishing here, within the writer’s knowledge,
is that of three men who in three hours filled a huge wooden bread tray and
two large fishing baskets, and were then obliged to leave a quantity of trout
because they had no way of carrying them home, even though the road to
Campbellton was all down hill. Parker Lake is situated on the back of Sugar
Loaf Mountain, and the ascent to it is a trifle toilsome, but an hour or two
around it will well repay even a climb on foot. Good camping ground is
found here, as indeed is almost invariably the case with the lakes in this part
of America. The lake is on private property, but a gentleman will not find
it difficult to obtain a permit to satisfy himself as to its resources. Station
Agent Barbarie, or any of the hotel-keepers, can give him all the information
he desires as to the fishing in any part of this country.

In the autumn and spring the wild geese hover around the shores of the
Restigouche in immense flocks, while all the many species of duck known to
this latitude are on the wing by thousands. Nor do the wild fowl look upon
the mouth of the Restigouche as a mere way station in their journey.
They linger there, and where there is open water they are prone Jo linger
long. The Bale des Chaleurs and the rivers that empty into it have been
their favorite haunts since a “time whereof the memory of man runneth not
to the contrary.” A few years ago a man killed fourteen black duck at one
shot, on the Little Muni river.

As a matter of course partridge are plentiful, and so are snipe, in their
season. Plover are found at times, but not in large numbers.

Caribou are very abundant on both sides of the river. They occasion-
ally show themselves around the barnyards of farmers in the smaller settle-
ments, and it is only a few years since one was caught at the railway freight
house in Campbellton. A year or two ago they could be had by any man
who knew how to look for them, and one of their resorts was between
Patapediac and Tracy Brook. On the Nouvelle River, north shore, William
Murray, of Campbellton, once shot four of the kingly creatures in one day.

The bear and the loup cervier are generally encountered when. least
looked for, but as long as the blueberries remain on the bushes the former are
usually to be found on the barrens.Marshall’s Gulch, Restigouche River, looking towards Cross Point, on the Intercolonial Railway.40

ON THE RESTIGOUCHE RIVER.

The Restigouche is part of the northern boundary of New Brunswick,
and if its length of two hundred miles were in a straight line it would reach
quite across the province. The line is not only not straight, but makes some
extraordinary bends between its source near Lake Metis, and its mouth at
Baie des Chaleurs. The distance between Metapediac and Patapediac, for
instance, is 37 miles by the river, but only 21 miles in a direct line. It is but
six and a half miles from Upsalquitch to Brandy Brook by land but it is not
less than thirteen miles by the river. Even more remarkable is the bend at
Cross Point, a few miles further up, where a walk of four hundred yards or so
across a strip of land will save a journey of about a mile by water. Yet the
river is not really crooked; it simply has abrupt bends, with long stretches of
straight distances between them. The occasional rapids are not dangerous,
and a canoe voyage over the broad and beautiful stream is an experience
which must be long and pleasantly remembered. The high and thickly
wooded hills form steep banks in many places, and their rich verdure is
reflected in the calm waters as in a mirror. Looking further into the clear
depths the salmon may be seen moving lazily on the pebbled bottom, waiting-
only for the tempting fly to lure them to the surface. This is no uncommon
sight on any part of the Restigouche. Even at the railway bridge as many
as a hundred salmon have been seen swimming slowly around at one time,
and it is probable that more or less of them could be seen almost any day in
the season were the train to stop so that the passengers could have a look at
the water. It is no idle boast to say that the Restigouche is the finest sal-
mon river in the world.

Some may wonder that the Indians, with their matter-of-fact habits of
nomenclature, did not bestow the title of the River of Fish on this noble
stream. That they failed to do so may be accounted for on two grounds :
First, that salmon were then even more abundant in all the rivers than they
are to-day; and next, because they had another and more significant title.
The word u Restigouche ” has had various interpretations given it. Many
have believed that it signifies “ river that divides like a hand/’ but the late
Sam Suke was of opinion that those words were the translation of “ Upsal-
quiteh.” Others have asserted, upon some unnamed authority, that Resti
gouche is u Broad River,” but the best evidence is that given by the old
missionary chronicles, which give the meaning as “ River of the Long War.”
The traditions of that war have perished, even as the meanings of the ancient
names of the country are well nigh forgotten by the Indians of the later days,

The aboriginal designation of all this region was Papechigunach, the
place of spring amusements, which doubtless had reference to some great
annual pow-wow in the times of peace. It is the place of the white man’s
summer sport to-day.41

The head waters of the river lie near Lake Metis in one direction and
the tributaries of the St. John in another, and for much of its length it flows
through a dense wilderness as yet undesecrated by man. The country
drained by it and its tributaries includes more than two thousand square miles
in Quebec and New Brunswick, and is a land of mountains and valleys—the
former rising grandly two thousand feet towards the clouds; the latter having
forests, in which solitude and silence reign. In these regions there are lakes
where the beaver has no one to molest nor make it afraid; there are gorges
whose rocks have never echoed the report of a gun ; there are miles upon
miles which have never been explored, and where the creatures of the forest
roam as freely as they did a hundred years ago. One can retire into the heart
of New Brunswick and reach rivers which lead to all points, such as the
Tobique and St. John, Nepisiguit, Miramichi, and others of lesser note, as
well as the rivers which run to the St. Lawrence.

The estuary of the Bestigouche is a beautiful sheet of water, more like a
lake than the outlet of a river. It extends from Dalhousie to where the tide
and the fresh water meet, eight miles below Metapediac, and in some places
is three miles wide. Ascending the river, the first place of interest is the site
of Petit Rochelle, three miles above Point Bourdo, destroyed by the British,
under Captain Byron, in July, 1760. Byron, with a fleet of five vessels, at-
tacked four Prench vessels which had run up the stream to this point. After
five hours of fierce combat, two of the Prench frigates were sunk. The
remaining two sought shelter under the stone battery at Indian Village, but
in doing so one of them, Le Marquis de Marloize, went ashore, leaving Le
Bienfaisant at fearful odds against the five vessels of the English. The captain
was ordered to haul down his flag, but instead of obeying, he went below,
applied a light to the magazine and blew his vessel to atoms. Byron then
went ashore with his men and burned the villages at Bourdo and Petit
Rochelle, and only the ruins of what was then a place with a population of
300 families are to be seen at the present day. It is not many years since
the remains of the hulls of the sunken frigates could be seen at the bottom
of the river, and many interesting relics of the fight have, from time to time,
been found and preserved.

Passing the mouth of the Metapediac, a distance of seven miles brings
the voyageur to the mouth of the Upsalquitch, the “ river that divides like a
hand.” Here is seen Squaditch, or the Squaw Cap, a mountain 2,000 feet in
height, and if one cares to ascend to Upsalquitch Lake he will find another
conical cap which rises to the height of 2,186 feet. Should he continue his
journey beyond the lake, he will reach the head waters of the Nenisiguit, by
which he can reach Baie des Chaleurs at Bathurst, or the head waters of the
Tobique, by which he can descend the St. John to the Bay of Fundy.

He will not do this until he has seen the Restigouche, and it may be
that before he leaves the latter river he wil] choose himself a site for a sum-42

mer habitation, or, possibly, a camping
ground for a hunting lodge in the winter
on its upper waters. At one place, known
as Chain of Rocks, Mr. Andrews, of New
York, had a very snug house a few years
ago, and though it was afterwards swept
away in a heavy freshet, it is probable
that he felt well repaid for his trouble by
the recollection of the fact that the river
at this point had made him the proud
captor of a fifty-pound salmon.

Another instance of a wealthy settler
is that of a Southern gentleman who
bought a farm which an industrious gran-
ger had cleared, about fifty miles from
the mouth of the river. There was no
salmon pool near at hand, but the pur-
chaser made art assist nature, and con-
structed one by a judicious arrangement
of the rocks in the water. The results
fully justified his trouble.

About twenty-nine miles above the
Upsalquitch is the Patapediac, by which
the Metis and other rivers emptying into
the Lower St. Lawrence may be reached.
Then comes the Quatawamkedgwick, and
a trip of about six miles up its waters
will bring the angler to a spot famous for
seven and eight pound sea trout. This
river leads to the head waters of the
Rimouski.

By following the Restigouche into
the Wagansis, a portage of about three
miles will bring one to the Grand River,
a tributary of the St. John. The Temis-
couata and Squatook Lakes may also be
reached — indeed, the by - paths in , the
wilderness are innumerable, for streams
lun in all directions. All of any size are
safe for canoe navigation, even with
ladies in the party, and all abound with
the finest of fish.

The Restigouche is not under lease
above the Quatawamkedgwick, as its



9

.



43

upper waters are not notably good for salmon fishing. Below that point,
the main river and the streams running into it are in the hands of lessees,
who pay rentals amounting to nearly $8,000, while a few years ago the
amount was but a little over $2,000. Under these circumstances, the waters
are well protected, and some of the streams are not fished, being preserved
that the Restigouche may reap the benefit.

DALHOUSIE.

One of the fairest spots on the line of the Intercolonial is found at the
town of Dalhousie. Even when this place wTas not connected with the rail-
road it attracted large numbers of visitors, and now that it is so easy of
access it is one of the most popular of summer resorts. Its location at the
mouth of the Restigouche, where the glorious Baie des Chalejurs begins,
would in any event make the site one of unusual beauty; but nature has done
much for Dalhousie in giving it hills and heights which command a prospect
of sea and land as far as the eye can reach. All varieties of scenery may here
be found, from the gently murmuring groves to the rugged rocks of most
fantastic form which in places skirt the shore. The harbor, with a depth of
more than ten fathoms, and in places from fifteen to twenty fathoms, is an
excellent one for all purposes. Protected by a natural breakwater of islands,
it is perfectly safe for all kinds of boating, and is large enough to afford
an abundance of room for recreation. Beyond it are the broad river
Restigouche and the Baie des Chaleurs. Fine beaches and water of moder-
ate temperature tempt the bather. The sheltered position of the place gives
it a freedom from raw winds, and fog, that terror of so many tourists, is never
known around this shore. It is not only a spot where the strong and healthy
may enjoy themselves, but it is one where the weak may become strong, and
the invalid take a new lease of life.

Dalhousie has a special attraction for those who desire to enjoy the
comforts and luxuries of a fashionable watering place. The Inch Arran
House is to the Maritime Provinces what the St. Lawrence Hall, at Cacouna,
is to the Province of Quebec—the leading sea-side hotel. It is beautifully
situated, close to the shore, and has at its doors a long stretch of beach on
which the most timid need not fear to experience the delights of salt water
bathing. The hotel itself is admirably designed, and has accommodation for
300 people. Every sleeping apartment is of good size, well lighted, and so
situated as to command a pleasant view of the Bay or the surrounding
country. Were the house crowded to nearly its full capacity no reasonable
man would be found to complain that he had arrived too late to get a good
room. About 200 persons can be comfortably seated around the tables in the
dining hall at one time, and should the weather be unpleasant, they can take
their after-dinner promenade on the unusually broad piazza, which extends
around the main building to the length of a fifth of a mile.u

The view from the Inch Arran is such as to charm every lover of the
beautiful. To the north the bay at the mouth of the Restigouche is only
about six miles wide, so that Point Maguasha and the hills on the Gaspe side
are seen to the best advantage. Nearer at hand, the varying shades of the
summer foliage are seen in striking contrast with the bright red rock which
here and there stands out in bold relief upon the hillside. To the southward
and westward La Baie des Chaleurs widens to the magnificent proportions
which entitle it to the name of a sea, while as far as the eye can reach along
its southern shore are seen the white houses and the tapering spires of the
distant villages.

The visitor to Dalhousie need never lack for recreation, apart from the
sailing, bathing and fishing. There are good roads, and they are never
muddy. They dry quickly after the heaviest rains, and it is always a pleasure
to drive over them. They lead to many pleasant places, and one of these is
Mount Dalhousie, two miles from the Inch Arran. The road to it has not
been kept in as good repair as it should be, because it has not been much
used, but in the future it is likely to have the attention it deserves. From this
mountain there is a fine view of the country, but notably attractive is that
which embraces Campbellton and the Restigouche river.

Boats and boatmen can be had at the beach at all times, and excursions
may be made to various parts of the bay at a moderate cost. The favorite
trips are to Carleton and Maguasha, on the Gaspe side, and Eel River and
Charlo, on the New Brunswick shore. Should'one wish to see all the Gaspe
coast, a staunch steamer leaves Dalhousie twice a week, and $6.00 will cover
the cost of a return passage. There is much to be seen and enjoyed on the
trip.

Dalhousie beach, in the vicinity of the hotel, gives opportunities for man^
pleasant strolls. Some curious rocks are to be seen along the shore, and
among them is a natural stone archway. Further on, a little research may
be rewarded by the finding of good specimens of fossil remains. About a
mile from the hotel is an interesting relic of the French occupancy, in the
form of a house of unpretentious exterior, having an interior finished of
carved mahogany, the work of Parisian artists.

The town of Dalhousie has a number of hotels, and some of them have
long enjoyed an excellent reputation with the general public. Some of the
most genial souls on the North Shore—and that is saying a great deal—are ,
to be found within a radius of a mile or so from the court house of this the
shire-town of the country. It is a busy town, also, shipping not only large
quantities of the lumber manufactured by its mills, but a good deal of that
which is the product of the mills of Campbellton. Ships carrying the flags of
all commercial nations lie at its wharves, and the captains who get acquainted
with the men who are worth knowing always take leave with the hope of an
early return.45

ALONG THE GASPE SHORE.

The steamer that leaves Dalhousie twice a week for Perce, calls at all the
places of interest on the Gaspe coast. Among these are Carleton, New
Richmond, New Carlisle, Paspebiac and Port Daniel, and such famous fishing
rivers as the Cascapedia, Bonaventure, Escuminac and Nouvelle, Little
Pabos and others. Of these, the most famous is the Cascapedia, the river
of the Governor-General of Canada. Salmon weighing within a few ounces
of fifty-two pounds are not at ail uncommon. Let it not be thought, how-
ever, the record of big fish has been beaten here, for a sixty-three pound
salmon was once found in the nets at the mouth of the Restigouche. To
take a fifty pounder with a fly, even on the Cascapedia, may well be con-
sidered a feat of no mean merit.

The Bonaventure is another beautiful stream. A score of years or so
ago W. H. Thorne, of St. John, N.B., had a lease of it for $20 per annum.
He now pays $1,250, which with other expenses, make the total cost about
$2,000 each year. The salmon have an average weight of eighteen pounds.
A record of what is called a nice day’s fishing is that of five and a half hours,
part in the morning and part in the afternoon, during which two men landed
fifteen salmon with an average weight of twenty-two pounds each. They could
have killed many more, had mere killing been the object, as it was not. As
many as sixty-three good sized fish have been counted lying lazily in a pool
on an August day, when the water was low and warm, and when they not
only refused to rise, but scarcely deigned to move when stirred up with the
end of a rod. They were not hungry.

By the way, does anybody know whether a salmon ever does get hungry
in fresh water, or whether it merely rises to the fly “ for the fun of the thing,
just as an otter makes a slide where there is a sloping river bank covered with
snow ? It has been asserted by many that the royal fish finds its food in the
ocean and keeps a long fast from the time it ascends the rivers until it returns
to the sea. It is said that smelt have been found in the stomachs of some
caught in Nova Scotia rivers, but old New Brunswick fishermen declare that
they have never been able to find a trace of food in the hundreds they have
opened.

The Nouvelle and Escuminac rivers are famous for the size and quality
of their sea trout, which will average from four to six pounds each. They
are very abundant and easily caught. The bait which appears to have a par-
ticular fascination for them is a stuffed mouse. Some good fishermen have
been in the habit of skinning field mice and filling the skins with cork cut to
the proper shape. Mice are not hard to find in this vicinity, and the best
quality of corks are to be had, at times, by following in the path of the last
fishing party.

The sea trout is not fastidious, however. IJnlike his near relative, Salmo46

Solar, he has an enormous appetite when in the rivers, and will gorge himself
whenever the opportunity offers. At certain times almost anything, even a
hit of red flannel, will serve as well as the most artistic fly. One trout caught
in the Metapediac had the remains of eleven mice in its stomach, and judging
from the avidity with which it took the bait, would have been able to dispose
of several more. An instance of the Oliver-Twistian appetite of this species
of fish is told by a St. John man who is not in the habit of carrying a cork-
screw, and is very reliable in other ways. He went up the Jacquet river, but
finding it full of logs and the water in bad condition, had no hope of securing
any fish. Finding an old inhabitant using smelt for bait, he resorted to the
same expedient, fastening the bait to the hook after the fashion of the natives.
He had great luck, and among his trophies was one big sea trout which had
swallowed so many smelt that its stomach could hold no more, for while the
head of the last one was down as far as the accumulated mass would allow it
the tail was sticking out of the trout’s mouth. And yet it was “ asking for
more ” when it encountered the hook.

Gfapeche, as the Indians termed Gaspe, means “land’s end,” and when
one is told that a few hours’ sail will take him to the Island of Anticosti, he
does not wonder at the name. Nature’s architecture, as shown at Perce, the
pierced rock, will well repay his inspection, and if he have a taste for legends
and traditions, there is much that will reward him for his time and trouble.
The Indians, with their keen sense of the sublime, peopled this land with
spirits, good and evil, while still more weird stories come down to us from
the French regime. There are phantoms, they say, at Cap d’Espoir, which
justify the English corruption of the word to its antithesis of Cape Despair,
and “]e genie de l’ile Perce/' the misty form of a female with arms out-
stretched as if in appeal, has been seen, so they tell, in the height of a raging
storm. Somewhere in this vicinity is Devil's Land, where it is narrated that
Poberval abandoned his niece, Marguerite, in 1542, in company with her
lover and an old Norman duenna. When the two latter died Marguerite was
the lone occupant of the dreary coast, continually contending with devils
which appeared to her in the forms of bears.

LA BAIE DES CHALEURS.

La Baie des Chaleurs is one of the most beautiful havens in America.
Ninety miles long, and from fifteen to twenty-five wide, there cannot be found
in its waters either rock or other hindrance to the safe passage of the largest
of ships. Jacques Cartier gave the bay its present name to commemorate the
grateful warmth which he there felt after coming from the cold shores of New-
foundland. The Indians called it Ecketuan Nemaachi, or Sea of Fish, a name
far more appropriate, though less musical, than that which it now bears, for in
this genial climate, with its breezes from the sea, the weather is never hot, as47

Americans understand heat. Cartier, however, may be pardoned for his
enthusiasm, for he had happened to touch at a particularly bad part of the
north coast of Newfoundland, where he “found not a cartload of good earth,7’
and the mainland seemed to him like a vision of Paradise. “ The countrey
is hotter than the countrey of Spaine,77 he recorded, “ and the fairest that can
possibly be found, altogether smooth and level. There is no place, be it
never so little, but hath some trees (yea, albeit it be sandie), or else is full of
wilde corne, that hath an ear like unto rie : the corne is like oates, and small
peason as thicke as if they had been sowen and plowed, white and red goose-
beries, strawberies, blackberies, white and red roses, with many other houres
of sweet and pleasant smell. There be also many good meadows full of
grasse, and lakes wherein great plentie of salmon be. *	*	* We named

it the Bay of Heat.77

It is but justice to Captain Cartier to state that the spelling is not his,
but that of the translator, as shown in the records of Hakluyt.

For many miles the Intercolonial Railway runs close to the shore, and
few fairer sights are to be seen than the broad and beautiful expanse of water,
with its numerous little inlets on the New Brunswick side and the lofty and
imposing mountains rising grandly on the shore of Quebec. For miles, too,
the land is settled, and the green fields of well-tilled farms add another charm
to the scene. Of a summer day, with a gentle breeze rippling the smooth sur-
face of the water, the yachtsman feels that he has at last found the object of
his dream. There is no finer yachting bay on the North Atlantic coast.

The waters of the bay abound with net fish, and there is also' a fine
chance for line fishing. Catching mackerel is a favorite recreation, the season
lasting from early in July until the last of September or later. The fishers go
out in small boats and use lines from ten to twenty feet in length. Fine-
chopped herring are thrown overboard to attract a “ school,77 and soon one
has work enough to tend his lines and haul in the mackerel as fast as caught.
Where two lines are used it is lively sport, and a hundred an hour is a com-
mon catch. The Gulf of St. Lawrence mackerel are large in size and are
9 usually in splendid condition. There is another kind of mackerel fishing—
that for the huge and oily horse-mackerel, or tunny, which is sometimes a
dozen feet long, and has been known to attain the weight of half a ton. The
specimens caught here are usually smaller than this and not hard to manage.
A heavy chain and hook are used, the water is “ baited,77 and when a big fish
takes the hook all there is to be done is to haul in the chain and keep his
head above water until he can be speared in a vital part. It is “ as easy as
rolling off a log 77—after you get in the way of it.

All the rivers which flow into the bay are good fishing streams. Sea
trout are found in the estuaries, and brook trout in the streams above. While
not so large as those found in the streams further north, they are of good size
and excellent flavor. The sea trout will average four and five pounds; the
others run all the way from half a pound to four pounds.48

The Charlo is a fine river for this kind of angling, and it is at its best
after the middle of August, though there is good fishing at any time from the
first of July to the middle of September. The best brook trout are found on
the South Branch, above the falls, the latter being three miles from the rail-
way, and the fishing is good from there for a distance of fifteen or twenty
miles back. A basketful, containing from 150 to 200, averaging about ten to
the pound, is not an unusual record of a day’s fishing by one man. Sea trout
are caught anywhere in the three miles between Henderson’s bridge and the
bay, and some famous catches have been made. On the day before the
writer’s last visit there, in the season of 1890, one man landed eighty, which
made as much of a load as he wanted to carry. The lot weighed about forty
pounds, and it was necessary to carry some of them on a stick, as there was
no room for them in the basket. On another occasion the same man filled a
big tin bread pan with the results of a day’s fishing. Good sport is also to be
had at the ]akes, a few miles from the village.

Another well-known stream, both for salmon and trout, is Jacquet Biver,
about fifteen miles below Charlo. The scenery on it is wild and striking, the
waters running between precipitous rocks, roaring in cascades and foaming
amid the boulders in the rapids. Guides are to be had at the village. If one
wishes to be unattended, he can go up by a good portage road, and will find
excellent fishing as he travels. He is sure to have it at Sunny side, eight miles
from the station, or at the Pot Hole and Kettle Hole, four miles higher up.
The best plan is to fish all along between the two places, and one is sure to
have good luck. Another choice spot is at the first falls, twenty miles from
the station. Belledune Lake, six miles from the station, in another direction,
also has a good name for gamey trout, running from a half to two pounds in
weight.

The shooting along the bay and in the woods further inland is of the
same fine character as that mentioned in connection with the Restigouche—
ducks and geese near the water, and bear, caribou, moose, etc., in the
forest.

A view of the Baie des Chaleurs, from the New Brunswick shore, is at?
all times pleasing, but never does it impress the mind more than in the silence
of a calm, clear night in summer or autumn, when the moon gives a silvery
softness to everything on land and sea. At Charlo, for instance, where the oppo-
site shore is not so far away as to be obscure, the sight is one to inspire the
most prosaic soul. Not the least striking object in the scope of vision is Tra-
cadieguash Mountain, nearly 2,000 feet high, which, though ten miles distant
across the water, seems in the clear air of this climate as if it were but a
league away.

The bay has its legends, and there are tales that the old people are loath
to tell, lest they be assailed with the ridicule of this scoffing and materialistic
age. There is yet one uncanny thing which relies not on legend for its fame,49

but asserts itself by appearing from time to time to mortal eyes. It is the
phantom light of Le Baie des Chaleurs.

For the last hundred years, at least, or as far as the English residents
have had the story orally transmitted*from their grandfathers, this light has
been seen in various parts of the bay from above Jacquet Fiver as far down
as Caraquet, and its advent has been accepted as the presage of storm and
tempest. Nobody knows what it is for it has never approached within less
than a mile or two from shore, and it has disappeared from the view of the
few bold sceptics who have sought to reach it by the aid of boats. Sometimes
it has the semblance of a burning vessel, many miles away. More frequently
it looks like a ball of fire, apparently close at hand. Now and then it darts
like a meteor, and again glides along with a slow and dignified motion.
Occasionally it mounts rapidly in the air, sails away and descends on a distant
part of the bay. It is altogether mysterious and eccentric. One may watch
for months and fail to get a glimpse of it, but many reliable persons have
seen it time after time. It is usually followed by a storm, and the most
singular part of the story is that it has appeared above the ice in the depth
of winter. There is, of course, a tradition, and it is to the effect that just
before the light appeared for the first time, a part of the crew of a wrecked
vessel were murdered by their companions, who appropriated all the plunder
they could get. The piratical sailors were subsequently lost during a storm
and immediately after the event the light began its vagrant existence. It is
one of the strange things that come in with the tide,

BATHURST AND THE NEPISIGUIT.

The early settlement of what is now Bathurst dates back to the first half
of the seventeenth century, when the French were masters of the land. As
early as 1645 the Jesuits had a station at the mouth of the Nepisiguit, and
two years later they built a chapel near the site of the present town. The
first Englishman to make the place his home was Hugh Sutherland, who came
in 1789, and the Sutherland name, as well as the manor, may be found there
to this day. The settlement was originally known as Indian Point, and the
harbor as St. Peter’s Bay, but when Governor Sir Howard Douglas designed
the plot of the town, he gave it the name of Bathurst. It is well laid out, and
was duly founded in 1828, when Sir Howard visited1 it for that purpose, and
drank all the wine in the place. In those days there was no Intercolonial,
and no chance to procure supplies at short notice. The announcement of the
proposed official visit filled the public with dismay—there was but one bottle
of that which maketh glad the heart to be had for love or money. The
reception committee was equal to the occasion. When the banquet was
spread, the wine was placed before Sir Howard,* while the natives drank the
toasts in water so ingeniously colored that His Excellency never suspected50

the pious fraud. It is but simple justice to add that such a dearth of refresh-
ment has never been known in the recollection of the generation of to-day.

The streets of Bathurst intersect each other at right angles ; they are
well graded, roomy and shaded by numerous trees. The soil is so sandy that
mud is never seen, and altogether the town is a very agreeable place for both
residents and visitors. There are numerous pleasant drives. One is to the
Tete-a-gauche, or Fairy Biver, the falls of which are about seven miles from
the town, and flow through a rocky gorge. Another drive is up the Nepisi-
guit to the Pabineau Falls, a distance of seven miles, taking in the Bough
Waters on the return. At the latter place the river has a very rapid run for
about a mile, roaring amid huge granite boulders, fragments of the pre-
historic rock over which the sea flowed in the centuries of the unrecorded
ages. It is from this place that the Nepisiguit takes its name, the Indian
word Nepiguit, or possibly Winkepiguit, meaning rough or troubled waters-
There are numerous other drives and walks in the vicinity of the town, and
good bathing may be had at the Point, three miles from the station, where
there is a fine sandy beach. Boating is had in the harbor and around the
bay. Mackerel and smelts are fished for with good success, with lines.
Some of the smelts measure a foot in length.

This is a great country for salmon and trout. The former are taken on
the Nepisiguit as far up as the Grand Falls. One of the favorite places for
them is at the Bough Waters, but,good pools are found all along the river.
In former years a man has gone from Bathurst to Grand Falls, fishing up,
and returned the next day, fishing down, and brought home thirty salmon,
weighing thirty-five pounds each and under. The Grand Falls are, of them-
selves, well worth seeing. They pour over the rocky height in two pitches,
with a total descent of 105 feet. The Pabineau Falls are more in the nature
of a series of rapids.

The Nepisiguit is about eighty-four miles long, to the head of Upper
Lake. At the Devil’s Elbow, about half-way up the river, is a famous trout
pool, and there are other spots where the angler is well rewarded for his
trouble. At the head waters are five lakes, around which may be fomyd, at
times, an abundance of duck and geese. From these lakes one can portage
to the Upsalquitch, and thence to the Bestigouche, to the Tobique, and
down to the St. John, and to the Northwest Miramichi and thence to New-
castle. The country is wild enough in the interior, and abounds in lakes and
streams not laid down on any of the maps. These forests are peopled with
all kinds of game.

Trout fishing with bait commences about the 10th of May, and large
quantities of sea trout, wighing from half a pound to six pounds, are taken
in the harbor. About the last of June, or first of July, the rivers begin to get
good and*continue so until the middle of September. During the summer a
red, or brown, or small grey fly brings good success, and in the fall, when51

the fish take bait readily, one who prefers a fly would do well to take a white
one with a good deal of tinsel. All the rivers and lakes have trout. A man
can cast a line anywhere and something will rise to it.

A country which has hitherto been little known to the tourist is now
opened up by the Caraquet Railway. This road runs from Gloucester, five
miles east of Bathurst, to Shippegan, a distance of sixty miles. Its course is
along the shore of the Baie des Chaleurs, and the journey is a most attractive
one to the lover of nature. Along the route are the villages of Salmon Beach,
Clifton, New Bandon, Grand Anse and Caraquet. The latter, an old and
quaint Acadian settlement, will be found worthy of the study of the stranger.
Good shooting and fishing are found all along the line.

A fine country for sport lies between Bathurst and Newcastle. The
Tabusintac River, about half-way, is one of the best sea-trout rivers in
America. The fish stories told of it are perfectly astounding to a stranger.
The trout are said to be as large as mackerel, and so plentiful that the fishing
of them is like being among a mackerel u school. ” This may be taken with a
little allowance, but there is no doubt that the river is an unusually fine one
for sport. A horse and canoe are useful on the journey. The Tracadie
River has also a splendid reputation. There are several other trout streams
in the district, but tljis one is most worthy of mention.

Caribou ! Yes, the caribou plains extend from the Northwest Mirami-
chi to the sea coast; and as to bears, the Bartibogue region points proudly
to the record of bounties paid on the bruins slain in its midst. Partridges are
plentiful in every part of this country, and fly across the path of the trav-
^ eller on every highway.

MIRAMICHI.

A Canadian writer, John Talon-Lesperance, has said that when the first
Bishop of Quebec, Francis Laval, stood upon the steps of the high altar of
the cathedral of the Ancient Capital “ he could wave his croiser over a whole
continent, from the Gulf of St. Lawrence to the Gulf of Mexico, and from the
Red River of the north to the waters of Chesapeake Bay.” The church had
brought the symbol of the cross to lift it * up in the wilderness and waste
places, yet before the first evangelist had set foot on the western world the
cross was known and reverenced by the savages of the Miramichi—the River
of the Cross.

From a translation by S. W. Kain, of an extract from a rare book, by
Monseigneur Jean St. Yalier, second Bishop of Quebec, published in Paris in
1688, it is learned that the Indians of this river knew the symbol of Chris-
tianity without comprehending its meaning. They had a tradition that in a
time of famine, long before their day, a vision of the cross, by a reliance on
which their deliverance would be wrought in all times of trouble, had been52

seen by one of their old men. He put his trust in it, and his faith became
that of the whole tribe. Every canoe carried a wooden cross in the bow, and
a similar sacred symbol was worn by the people and buried with them in their
graves. Thus it was that the Miramichi was called the River of the Cross,
whatever the Indian words were, and’that the name it bears to-day not only
does not mean “ happy retreat,” as. most people think, but it is no more an
Indian word than it is Latin or Greek. Neither the red man nor the students
of their dialects recognize it. In the first edition of this guide, in 1882, the
writer was of opinion that the name was a corruption of Miggumaghee—Mic-
mac Land—a word which he had found in the writings of Rev. Eugene Vetpo-
mile, but since then the investigations of Prof. W. E. Ganong show that the
original word was something that sounded like “ Micheomai,” though no
really satisfactory conclusion can be reached.

There was a time when one man, Denis de Fronsac, owned the whole of
this part of the country, and yet felt himself less important than does many
a bank clerk to-day. Land in those times was of value to a proprietor only
when it was already cleared and convenient to the shore. If Denis had been
obliged to pay taxes on the 2,000 square miles granted to him in 1690, he
would have had to make an assignment for the benefit of his creditors.

Since then the value of real estate has increased, anxLmen have made for-
tunes on bits of land that Denis would have given to have his flask filled when
he ran out of supplies on a fishing trip. In these later days the name and
the fame of Miramichi have extended over the civilized world. Ships of every
nation carry its lumber and its fish to distant lands, and before the days when
Chicago, Boston, and St. John, astonished mankind with their pyrotechnics,
it stood pre-eminent as the scene of the biggest fire on record.

The traveller is at Miramichi when he stops at Newcastle, a town fair to
look upon, as it slopes gently to the waters of the great river, which here
broadens into an arm of the sea as it meets the waters of the Gulf of St. Law-
rence. Saw mills in every direction tell of the extent of the lumber industry,
and at the proper season will be seen substantial indications of the wholesale
export of fish. Trade of other kinds is brisk, and there is a general air of
prosperity. Six miles below, by the river, is Chatham, a compact and busy
place, which may be reached by an enjoyable trip on the steamer which plys
between the two towns. It is the seafc of the Roman Catholic Bishop of
Chatham Diocese, and has numerous fine buildings, both public and private.
The Chatham Branch Railway, nine miles in length, connects the town with
the Intercolonial, and excursions are made by steamer from Chatham to Bay
du Yin, a distance of twenty-five miles, the round trip costing the moderate
sum of fifty cents.

The country in the vicinity of Chatham and Newcastle is well settled,
and there are many opportunities for drives in which the stranger will find
much to admire. Miramichi is a pretty place and has always been praised by53

its visitors. Jacques Cartier came all the way from France to have a look at
it in 1535, and gave it a first-class notice in the guide book to Canada which
he subsequently wrote. Every other guide book man has done the same, and
every one has told the truth. It is a stirring, wide-awake country, and its
people have a right to feel proud of it and to praise it.

Three and a half centuries have passed since Jacques Cartier stepped on
the continent of America, at the mouth of this river. He had, indeed, stop-
ped at Newfoundland, but happened to find a very bad part of its coast. “ I
believe it to be the land that God allotted to Cain,” he wrote, and so he sailed
westward until he reached what is now known as Point Escuminac. He was
delighted with the forests, soil and climate, but had he sailed up the river he
would have found even more to excite his admiration and evoke his praise.
The county of Northumberland, with an area of 2,756,000 acres, is not only
the largest in New Brunswick, but it is one of the fairest and most flourishing.
Its people are among the most enterprising and hospitable in the Lower Pro-
vinces and they are a busy people as well, for as many as eighty square-rigged
vessels have been seen in the port of Chatham at onetime, loading for foreign
markets. The Canada Eastern Railway connects Chatham and Newcastle
with Fredericton, the capital of the province. Its route is through the rich
and beautiful Miramichi Valley, a distance of 110 miles, and the road must
materially advance the interests of this already flourishing county. Another
railway is a branch of the Intercolonial which runs to Indian Brook, about
fourteen miles from Newcastle,

The sportsmen in search of wild fowd will find one of the best localities
in the country at Point Escuminac, which rivals even the famed Point Miscou
as a resort of ducks and geese. Then, too, those who are not sportsmen may
find much to interest them at various points along the river. If they have
read Canadian history, they will remember that the ship which carried General
Wolfe’s body from Quebec to England put in at Miramichi for fresh water.
Six men were sent ashore at Henderson’s Cove, where Gilmour and Rankin’s
mill was afterwards built, and were murdered by Indians. The captain, sup-
posing that the French had committed the deed, proceeded to silence the
battery at French Fort Cove, then went to Canadian Point, destroyed it and
killed most of the people, and on his way down river stopped long enough to
burn the church at what has ever since been known as Burnt Church Point.
He appears to have been a man of considerable energy, but it was an awful
mistake and exceedingly rough on the Acadians.

These unfortunate people must have thought that their lines were cast
in very unpleasant places in those times. They had been struggling against
famine and pestilence, which had carried off more than eight hundred of them
during the previous winter, and if the traveller goes up the river to Beaubair’s
Point he will find where most of them were buried. They were still suffering
from hunger and disease when fire and the sword came among them.54

The Miramichi River is seven miles wide at the mouth and 225 miles
long, its head waters lying in Carleton and Victoria counties, within easy
reach of the St. John and its tributaries. The Northwest Branch begins near
the head-waters of the Nepisiguit, and the two branches unite at Beaubair
Island, a short distance above Newcastle. Both are fed by numerous large
streams, and the river drains over 6,000 square miles of country, an area
equal to about a quarter of the province. It is navigable for large vessels for
forty-six miles from the mouth, and for canoes for many hundred miles. The
vast country which it drains has never been thoroughly explored; even the
ubiquitous lumberman has but a partial knowledge of it; and it will readily
be seen that its resources for the hunter are practically without limit. Moose,
caribou, deer, bears, wolves, foxes, racoons, loup-cerviers, and all the smaller
animals range these forests, while fish leap from every lake and stream. By
this great natural highway, and its connections, one may reach every section
of the province where a hunter wishes to go. No pent-up shooting park con-
tracts his powers ; it is for himself to name the extent of his journey.

One whose time is limited does not need to wander far from Chatham or
Newcastle in order to find abundant sport. As for fishing, he is in a fish
country, from which the annual exports of salmon, smelts, bass, etc., are
something incredible. Rod fishing may be had in every direction, and some
of the lakes have never been fully explored. Whenever there is a high bank
on one side and a low beach on the other, will be found a pool to which
salmon are sure to resort. The Ox Bow, on the Little South West, a mile
above Red Bank, is a favorite spot for fishers. The main North West is a
particularly good river; one of the noted places on it is the Big Hole, five or
six miles above the Head of the Tide. There salmon or grilse can be caught
at almost all times, but are particularly abundant immediately after a rain.
The Big and Little Sevogles, which empty into the river just named, have a
good reputation. The former is a very pretty river with a fine water-fall, in
the basin beneath which is excellent fishing at certain seasons. Immediately
below is the Square Forks, where the north and south branches meet, a place
with scenery of rather striking nature. The Miramichi salmon is not large,
ten pounds being a fair average, but its flavor is very fine. Grilse average
about five or six pounds. They are very gamey, and afford splendid sport.
The run of salmon in these rivers in 1890 was greater than for many previous
years. An instance of this is the fact that ninety-five salmon and 177 grilse
were killed in the waters of Hon. Michael Adams, on the North West.

Trout fishing is had in all the rivers, brooks and lakes. The Tabusintac
has already been mentioned. The sea trout in it and in the Tracadie are very
large. On both rivers there is good fishing for many miles from the mouth.
Early in June, when the water of the Miramichi is low, fine sea trout are
caught as far up as Indiantown. As for flies the “ Jock Scott” is considered
good for all purposes. The “Silver Doctor” is another favorite, while for55

spring fishing a red body with white wings is found to have “ a very taking
way.”

During the summer, mackerel and codfish are taken with the hook in the
Miramichi Bay, and in the summer there is also good bass fishing inside the
Horse Shoe Bar, at the mouth of the river. The winter fishing for bass, with
xbow nets, is followed on the North West River, and fish as large as twenty
pounds are taken. The winter smelt fishing has also grown to a great in-
dustry. Smelt take the hook as well, and are fished for in the fall and winter
with jiggers, four hooks being used.

Partridges are very plentiful. Plover and snipe are also found in the fall,
and a few, but not many, English woodcock, The great fall and spring sport
is the shooting of geese, brant and ducks of all kinds. They are found at
Tabusintac Gully, mouth of Tabusintac, Neguac Gulley, Black Lands Point
and Grand Anse, on the north of the river, and Baie du Yin, Fox Island,
Point Escuminac, and other places on the south side.

THE GREAT FIRE.

“ All it required to complete a picture of the General Judgment was the
blast of a trumpet, the voice of the archangel and the resurrection of the
dead.” In these words the local historian, Cooney, gives his impression of
the fire which swept over Miramichi, in the year 1825, In the three score
and odd years which have passed since then, nearly all the traces of that
great calamity have been effaced, and probably all of those who were of an
age to realize the terrible grandeur of the scene have passed away beyond
recall.

It was the good fortune of the writer, several years ago, to hear from the
lips of some of the aged survivors the story of that dreadful day, and to write
the facts as they told them. The pictures which their minds retained were
thrilling in the extreme ; the reality must have been appalling in its horrors

They remembered the Miramichi of their youth as a country rich in
resources, with a large and rapidly increasing timber trade. Newcastle had
then a population of about 1,000 while probably a third of that number were
settled at Douglastown, a few miles below. The vast region through which
the river and its tributaries flowed contained a wealth of magnificent timber,
of such a character that it would be difficult for one to calculate its value if
it were available at the present day. An idea of its size has been gained from
the remains of the immense stumps of charred pine unearthed from time to
time during the building of the railway, the like of which cannot be found in
what is even now a wonderful lumber country.

The summer of 1825 was a prosperous one, and hundreds of men in the
woods and settlements looked forward to still more extended operations in
the winter. The autumn came with even more than the usual splendor which56

attends it in this northern* land. The sky was unclouded for weeks. Not a
drop of rain fell over the vast range of country, and the forest cracked with
u'nwonted dryness, while the grass withered and the flower faded. The little
rivulets ceased to flow, and the great river shrank far from its accustomed
bounds. The ground was parched as in midsummer drouth, while the air
was close and a sultry heat oppressed the senses, October came, and as the days
of its first week passed the air grew more stifling and the heat more oppres-
sive, though the sun was less bright than it had been and shone like a disc
of copper through a faint smoke which seemed to come from a distant region.
Some said that the woods were afire far to the north and west, but for this
the dwellers on the Miramichi cared little. The axe rang in the depths of
the forest, the harvest was gathered in the settlements, and trade flourished
in the growing town of Newcastle.

On Friday, the 7th of October, the townspeople observed a dark cloud
above the woods on the North-West Branch, but no apprehension was felt.
So little thought was given to any danger by fire that some believed that which
was smoke to be a rain cloud, and they rejoiced at the prospect of the refresh-
ing showers by which it would be followed. The twilight of that day was
followed by a darkness so deep that those who were abroad in the town had to
grope their way along the roads. A colored man, named Pres ton, was preach-
ing in one of the houses, and a number of people had gathered to hear him.
During the service they were disturbed by the loud beating of a drum outside.
They supposed it was in derision of the preacher, and gave it little thought.
That drum was beaten by William Wright, who had come from the lumber
woods, and knowing that a great fire was sweeping over the country, thus
sought to warn the people of its approach. Few heeded the warning.

The sermon was finished, and those who had comprised the congregation
started for their homes. The night was still very dark, for as yet no light
from the fire was visible in Newcastle, save the outline of a lurid and seemingly
distant zone, which gave the people no intimation of present danger. The
air was full of smoke, the wind had increased to a gale, and borne upon it was
a hoarse roar, like distant thunder. Suddenly a bright light pierced the dark-
ness, and a moment later a sheet of flame flashed from the woods at the top
of the hill. Near this place was the new Presbyterian church, the corner
stone of which had been laid by Sir Howard Douglas, a few months before.

It was the first building to take fire, and it vanished almost in an instant.
The wind had increased to a hurricane, and the burning brands were carried
over the town, spreading destruction in their path. There was no longer
darkness, and in the awful light the terrified people were seen hurrying for
their lives and knowing not where to look for safety. It was not strange that
many of them believed the Day of Judgment was at hand, and, panic-stricken,
ceased their struggles to implore mercy from Heaven.

On what is now the public square stood the court house and jail. The57

court had that day finished its assize, and several prisoners had been sen-
tenced. Two or three had been condemned to death, and one of them was a
negro woman who had murdered her child. When the fire burst upon New-
castle, the prisoners saw their danger, and a fearful shout, a wail of supplica-
tion mingled with the agony of despair, came from the windows of the
prison. Some men who were on the street paused long enough in their flight
to burst open the outer door, but by the time the prisoners were at libeity a
sea of flame and smoke surrounded them. The woman ran out, but scarcely
had she cleared the portal when she fell to the earth and yielded up her life
to the flames by which she was surrounded. The scene at this awful hour
defies description. Half naked men and women, shouting and shrieking,
were fleeing for their lives, some seeking only their own safety and others
striving to rescue those who were helpless by reason of childhood, age or
infirmity. The greater portion fled to a marsh west of the town, and among
them were several suffering from typhoid fever and small-pox. Few of the
fugitives attempted to save any of their worldly goods. Even the money in
the tills was left untouched, and one man fled from his house without stopping
to take one of a thousand silver dollars which it had required years for him
to accumulate. One man has told the writer that he would have left a peck
of doubloons undisturbed, so certain was he that the end of the world had come.
Others, less excited, threw their money and valuables in the river, and then
sought safety for themselves. Some tried to escape by crossing the Mira-
michi on sticks of timber, but as the river was like an angry sea, many met a
death in its waters. An entire family, consisting of husband, wife and several
children were among those drowned. In another instance, at Bartibogue.
one girl was the survivor of a family of nine who perished in the flames.

The fury of the fire made its duration brief after its further progress was
checked by the broad river. In three hours Newcastle and the settlements
in the vicinity were in ashes. Only one or two buildings in the town escaped,
and one of these, the Leyden House, is still standing. At Houglastown the
only house spared was that in which lay a corpse awaiting burial.

Those who were in the woods have told how they owed their escape to
their taking refuge in the river and plunging their heads beneath the water
from minute to minute during that terrible night. All around them, in some
instances, were alike the fiercest and most timid beasts of the forests, harmless
and trembling in their terror of a common danger. Even the water was
but a partial refuge, for so hot was it in the shallow places that myriads of
fish were literally cooked to death.

Briefly stated, the Miramichi fire was one of the greatest of which the
world has any record. It swept over the country, from the head waters of
the river, in a sheet of flame one hundred miles broad, and burned all before
it in an area of more than four thousand square miles, four hundred mrles of
which was settled country. It will never be known how many lives were58

lost. Cooney says there were one hundred and sixty, but as many wrho per-
ished in the woods were strangers without kindred to trace their disappear-
ance, the estimate is undoubtedly a low one. Whole families were destroyed,
and hundreds made homeless and destitute, though abundant relief came to
them later, not only from the British possessions but the United States.
Apart from the incalculable loss in the forests, the fire destroyed about a mil-
lion dollars’ worth of property, including six hundred houses and nearly nine
hundred head of cattle. The light of it was seen as far as the Magdalen
Islands, and its cinders were scattered over the streets of Halifax. • In the
fury of the hurricane huge tree tops and burning roofs were whirled high in
the air, and as they descended were believed by those at a distance to be
balls of fire rained from the heavens in token of the Almighty’s wrath. No
eleirient of horror which the mind could conceive was wanting in that fearful
scene.

MIRAMICHI TO MONCTON.

After leaving Newcastle, the Miramichi Railway bridges are crossed.
Every one admires their beauty, and no one is surprised when told that the
cost of this part of the road was in the neighborhood of a millon dollars.
This represents a vast amount of work, much of which is hidden under the
water. Each of the bridges is 1,200 feet in length, and they are models of
strength combined with beauty.

From Miramichi until Moncton is reached the railway passes through a
country which has no particular attractions for the eyes. It is so far from the
shore that none of the flourishing settlements are seen, and the traveller is apt
to gain a poor idea of the country. There is, however, a fine farming and
fishing district all along the coast, and some large rivers, of which only the
head waters are crossed. The Richibucto is one of these, and the town of
the same name, reached by a branch railway from Kent Junction, has much
to recommend it as a summer resort. The bathing and boating privileges are
unlimited, and the scenery is never marred by the presence of fog. The village
of St. Louis, seven miles distant, is noted as a resort for the sick and infirm,
who seek the healing waters of a grotto in the nature of the famed one of Our
Lady of Lourdes, and return to their homes with their afflictions banished.
The vicinity of Richibucto affords many other walks and drives of interest,
while all kinds of game invite the sportsman, and fine fishing is found on the
river and in the harbor.

MONCTON.

Moncton is a city, and a live one. It has 10,000 inhabitants at the time
of writing, and possibly by the time the public read this there will be a
thousand or two more. When the Intercolonial first issued a guide book,59

fifteen years ago, the man who wrote it thought he would tickle the vanity of
the residents by putting the figures at 5,000, even if he h&d to include Lutz
Mountain, Lewisville and Fox Creek in order to satisfy his conscience. The
people were amazingly pleased, and whispered to each other that it was
“ just as well to say so, anyhow; it will give strangers a better impression.”
Three or four years ago the population puffer talked about 7,000, but had to
admit*that Moncton was only a town. Now, he impresses upon strangers
the fact that it is a city, and that 9,999 is a hundred or two less than the
number of the inhabitants thereof.

This may be the case, for the census of 1891, which is believed never to
overstate the actual population of places, puts the figures at 8,765 as against
5,032 in 1881, an increase of more than 74 per cent, in ten years. This is a
greater ratio of increase than was shown in the same period in any place in
the Maritime Provinces, with the exception of Springhill Mines and Yar-
mouth, Nova Scotia.

Moncton is a railway centre, the heart of the Intercolonial, from which
the busy operations of the system are controlled. There is a railway odor in
the air, bells ring and whistles blow at all hours of the day and night, and
railway men are found at every turn. The general offices and workshops
employ a small army, and as this army is paid in cash it is very popular with
all classes of society. All important events are calculated from their
relation to pay day, and the night following it is to Moncton what the Satur-
day night before Christmas is to less favored places. It is the storekeepers’
harvest—everybody’s harvest—and it comes no less than twelve times a
year.

There was a time when Moncton was not much of a place, and had not
even a name worth mentioning. It was called The Bend, not from any
characteristic of its own, but because the river course hereabouts was of a
design similar to a dog’s hind leg. In those days the railway was scarcely
more than a vision and a dream, but in the last decade or so a mighty change
has been wrought. The city is still growing, and its growth is both a rapid
and healthy one.

The railway has done a great deal for Moncton, and Moncton has done
a good deal for itself. The people are enterprising as well as enthusiastic,
and have not only a courage in the present but an unbounded faith for the
future. They have a sugar refinery, a cotton factory and many other indus-
tries of importance. They have erected fine public and private structures ;
and while they have outstripped the citizens of larger places in availing them-
selves of applied electricity, they are now coming to the front with an electric
railway. The old-time shops have given place to “ real stores, with plate
glass fronts and the electric light,” while in the less busy streets are residences
of tasteful design, usually in the midst of admirably arranged grounds. It is
not strange that the Monctonian is loyal to his city, and that whether he60

departs from it with the common carpet-bag of commerce or the gay and
gaudy yellow valise of the great man, he is always glad to get back again.

It is but just that this tribute should be paid to a promising city and
its people, because many strangers merely stop off between trains and have
no opportunity to judge for themselves. If there is smoke in the air, at
times, it is because artizans are adding to the wealth of the country j and if
the streets are a trifle muddy, in the wet weather, it is because there is a
constant tide of traffic on them. It is easy enough to have clean streets in
a town where a hearse or a milk waggon is the most conspicuous vehicle, but
Moncton is not that kidd of a place.

The Petitcodiac is one of the kind of rivers to which the traveller must
get accustomed ere he proceeds much further on his journey. At high water
it is quite a majestic stream, though a trifle discolored; at low tide the river
disappears, with the exception of some water in the channel, and acres of
smooth, slippery mud appear. The mud is not a nice thing to get into, but
as a fertilizer it is a great success—the manure with which nature enriches

O

the vast areas of marsh which are found at the head of the Bay of Pundy.
The river, at Moncton, is a good place to see the tide come with a “bore.”
Thousands of well-read people, trusting to books written by men of imagina-
tive minds, have lived and died in the belief that the tide at the head of the
bay rose 120 feet. Old editions of the Encyclopedia Britannica used to say
so, and one geographer is responsible for the statement that this extraordin-
ary flood was seen thirty miles away approaching in one vast wave with a
prodigious noise. The truth is that the Bay of Fundy tides rise as high as
sixty feet and upwards, and with great rapidity, but take plenty of time to
fall. When they enter certain long and narrow estuaries a bore of six feet,
and in some cases even higher is formed. This is, however, worth seeing,
and worth keeping out of the way of, if you are out in a boat and don’t
know how to manage it; but a traveller who has set his heart on a bore of
sixty or a hundred feet is apt to be disappointed.

A watering-place convenient to Moncton, and in favor with its people, is
Buctouche, reached by a run of thirty-two miles over the Buctouche & Monc-
ton Railway.

Seven miles beyond Moncton, on the Intercolonial, is Painsec Junction,
from which a branch runs to Shediac and Point du Chene. Painsec is the
French for dry bread, though nobody appears to know why the title was
bestowed on this part of the country. It need not frighten the traveller, for
he is on his way to a land famous for oysters and other good cheer, to say
nothing of many other things that will contribute to his pleasure.

SHEDIAC.

Everyone has heard of the Shediac oysters, those marvels of flavor on
the half shell or in an A 1 stew. This is the place where they live when they62

are at homey and where one may admire their open countenances as they
come fresh from their native element. Shediac has more than oysters to
recommend it, however, for it is one of the most pleasant summer resorts on
this shore. As yet, strangers have hardly found it out, but its beauties are
well known to the people of New Brunswick, many of whom pay it a visit
during the'summer months. All who go to Shediac enjoy themselves. The
village of itself is a pretty place, and the locality is a charming one. The
harbor is a beautiful sheet of water, about a mile and a half wide, and from
three to five miles long. All around it is a smooth and gently sloping sand
beach, affording every facility for bathing in the pleasantly warm water. Bath
houses have been erected for those who desire them, and though the water is
the salt sea, from the Gulf, there are no under-tows to play tricks upon the
weak and unwary. There are neither squalls nor rough seas in the harbor,
and it is a splendid cruising ground for pleasure boats. Shediac Island, a
short distance away, is much in favor for pleasure parties. A visit to the Cape,
one of. the prettiest places in the vicinity, will well repay one for the
trouble.

Point du Chene, two miles below Shediac, is the deepwater terminus and
port of shipment. Here, in the summer, may be seen large numbers of square-
rigged vessels, loading with lumber for places across the ocean. Daily com-
munication is had with Prince Edward Island by steamer. All that has been
said of Shediac applies with equal force to the Point, and the latter has for
the tourist additional advantages. The view from the shore on a calm sum-
mer day is one which cannot fail to charm. Add to this the fresh, invigorating
breezes from the water, excellent bathing and boating, with the advantage of
a good hotel, and Point du Chene is one of the.places to be sought as a quiet,
healthful and restful retreat.

A great deal of quiet enjoyment may be had from the trout fishing in this
vicinity. The streams most sought by the angler are the Shediac -and the
Scadouc. • On the former, good places are found at Bateman’s mill, four miles
from the village, and at Gilbert’s mill, two miles beyond. Between these
places and Point du Chene sea trout may be caught, weighing three and four
pounds each. Fishing begins*in the latter part of May, and the fiy preferred
is the red hackle. Down the shore good fishing is had at Dickey’s mill,
three miles, and at Aboushagan, eight miles distant. Good bass and mackerel
fishing is had in the harbor and off the island, in the fall, In September and
October, three and four pound bass can be caught from the wharf at Point
du Chene.

Oysters, of course, are abundant, while sea-clams mud-clams and lobsters
are found everywhere along the shore.

Plover shooting begins on the 1st of September, and good success is had
on the shore from Point du Chene to Barachois, a range of about four miles.
The shore is also a good place for geese, brant, and ducks, in the spring aiid63

fall, and another good shooting ground is at Grandigue, about eight miles
distant by road.

Board is very reasonable and excellent accommodation is provided. At
the leading hotel, which runs a free carriage to and from the steamers at
Point du Chene, the rate is only a $1.50 a day, and board may be secured for
$5 and $6 a week. The Gulf Port steamers call at Point du Chene, and a
large traffic with Prince Edward Island is carried on during the summer, by
daily steamers to and from Summer side. With fine climate, fresh sea breezes,
sunny days and cool nights, the place is remarkably healthy; more than that
it is exceedingly pleasant.

The traveller can go from Shediac direct to Prince Edward Island, he
can return to Moncton and thence to St. John, or he can return to Painsec
and continue his journey south. Taking the latter course, he enters upon a
fine country, which becomes more settled and much better cultivated as he pro-
ceeds, Memramcook is a settlement largely composed of Acadian French.
St. Joseph’s College and other Roman Catholic educational institutions are
the chief features of interest and are very pleasantly located on the gentle
slope of the fertile valley. A few miles beyond is Dorchester, prettily situ-
ated on gently rising ground. The Maritime Penitentiary, for long term
prisoners from the Lower Provinces, is a conspicuous object on the hill side.
Dorchester is the shire town of Westmoreland, and a stranger who happened
there at court time might infer that the staple industry was litigation. The
village has given more bright lawyers to the profession than any place of its
size in the country, to say nothing of a governor for the province and poli-
ticians without number. It has other industries, however, and some of the
finest of Hew Brunswick ships have been built around its shores.

Eleven miles beyond Dorchester is Sackville, a place which would be
quite an imposing looking town if the houses were close together. As it is,
the principal street is about seven miles long, and most of the people have
their residences on it. Farming is extensively carried on and some of the
finest cattle in Eastern America are raised here, to be exported to England,
at times, to compete successfully with the beef of the British markets. Here
and there, on the way from Moncton, the traveller has caught glimpses of
broad stretches of verdant marsh. When he leaves Sackville he begins to
realize the extent of them in this part of the world. The thousands of acres
which he sees,are but a small portion of. the ever fertile areas which are
found around the head of the Bay of Eundy, and which have been a rich
heritage to its people from the earliest days. In the dark continent the thrifty
suitor may value his prospective father-in-law by the amount of ivory he pos-
sesses; among the Four Hundred of Hew York love’s ardor may have a rela-
tion to stocks and, bonds; but the.lover who walks from Westcock to Four
Corners to proffer his affection finds a sweet compensation for his toil in the
odor which exhales at eve from the marshes of his dear one’s awful dad.64

Mount Allison college and academies for both sexes make Sackville the
educational centre for the Methodist demonination. They have furnished
Canada with some of its most prominent men in the professions and in the
legislative halls.

The New Brunswick and Prince Edward Railway runs from Sack-
ville to Cape Tormentine, and a steamer between the latter place and Cape
Traverse gives ready communication with the “ Garden of the Gulf/’ in the
summer season. Before a suitable steamer ran from Pictou to the Island the
only method of conveying mails and passengers in winter was by means of
ice boats between the capes, a journey always attended with excitement and
often with danger. The distance across is nine miles, and between the two
shores, in cold weather, lies a formidable barrier of broken and irregular ice
fields, through which no vessel can pass, and over which no land vehicle can
travel. Drift ice from the Gulf of St. Lawrence adds to the accumulation,
and piles it up in hummocks like those encountered in the Arctic regions.
In some placed there will be open water, while again there will be stretches of
lolly, or a mixture of broken ice and water through which long and hard toil
is required to force a passage. The ice boat which can overcome all these
obstacles is not the craft which bears that name on the Hudson and the great
lakes. That is a triangular platform on runners, fitted with a sail and speed-
ing over the smooth frozen surface at a rate no other craft can equal, The
ice boat of the Strait is a strong, but not heavy, row boat, which can float on
the water or be dragged over all kinds of ice, as occasion demands. Straps
are attached to its sides, and each man, passengers included, has one of these
slung over his shoulder when the craft is dragged. In this way he not only
assists in the work, but is saved from going beneath the surface should he
step in a treacherous place. Ladies and invalids, as well as dudes who are
willing to pay double passage money, are allowed to remain in the boat and
become part of the burden. The crossing will not be made if the weather
and other conditions are not favorable, and many a traveller can recall his ^
day after day of waiting, while high carnival was held in Tom Allen’s hos-
pitable ranch. With the precautions now taken, there are no fatalities, but
there have been in the past. Years ago a party started to cross, but when,
well on their way a blinding snowstorm swept over the Strait, and no mortal
eye ever again saw trace of the boat or its occupants. It is supposed they
were carried out to sea and there miserably perished Now-a-days the trav-
eller is safe, and if he be properly clothed is reasonably comfortable. The ex
ercise keeps the blood in circulation and prevents any bad effects. Some-
times the traveller is up to the waist in the cool and refreshing water, but
such mishaps are laughed at when the passage is safely accomplished.

Local sportsmen find fair goose and duck shooting around the lakes in
the vicinity of Sackville, while they tell of some good bags of snipe and plover
in the proper season.Moose River Falls, near Parrsboro, N. S., reached by the Intercolonial Railway and its connections. (See p. 71).66

Leaving Sackville, the road takes its way over the Tintamarre Marsh for
several miles, close to the head of the Bay of Fundy. An Lac station was
the point at which the BaieWerte Canal would have commenced, had it been
built. The isthmus at this point is a little over eleven miles wide from water
to water, and it is not twenty miles from one anchorage to the other. The
country is well settled between the two shores, and its people include pro-
gressive farmers who have learned to regard agriculture as a science.

A word of caution as to proper names may not be out of place here.
If the stranger wants to talk to the people about the marsh, he will save him-
self from correction by calling it “ Tantramar,” though there is no reason
why the French “ Tintamarre ” should ever have been so corrupted. In the
same way Buet’s Bridge—“Pont de Buet—is known only as Point de
Bute, while Jolicoeur will be Jolicure to the end of time. The early English
settlers here had little patience with the French or their nomenclature, and
the French themselves have long since departed from the land.

They did not go without a struggle. Just beyond Au Lac is the ruined
monument of the last days of their occupancy. It is all that is left of the
solidly built Fort Beausejour, erected nearly a century and a half ago, when
the thriving settlement of Beaubassin had 2,500 communicants and was the
largest in Acadia. One may still stand within its solid casemates, or trace
the bastions which have thus far resisted the hand of time, and he may ponder
on the last struggle of the French regime to hold its own against the invading
forces of England.^ The importance of the isthmus between the provinces
was recognized only when it was out of the power of its holders to retain it.
This fort had accommodation for eight hundred men, and had what was, in
those days, an elaborate system of outworks. It was taken by Col. Moncton,
in June 1775, and with its fall the struggle in Acadia was at an end. The
English gave the place the name of Fort Cumberland. As the years rolled
"by it was suffered to fall into decay, and now only the ruins remain.

Within a cannon shot to the south is the site of Fort Lawrence, which
was built and occupied by the English. It is only the site, for the ground is
now a well tilled farm, and not a trace of the original works is left to remind
one of its story.

Near Fort Lawrence may be seen the western end of that wonderful
piece of work, the Chignecto Ship Railway, the first of its kind in the world.
When completed, vessels of any size can be carried overland between the Bay of
Fundy and the Gulf of St. Lawrence, a distance of seventeen miles. Received
in docks at either end of the line, they will be raised by hydraulic lifts, con-
veyed on trucks over the perfectly straight railway and deposited in the waters
of the other side of the isthmus. In this way an immense saving of distance
will be made between the Gulf ports and those of New England and the Bay
of Fundy.67

AMHERST.

Within a quarter of a century the population of Amherst has more than
doubled, and the town is now one of the most thriving in the Maritime Prov-
inces. It has a population of about 4,000, and made an increase of more
than 66 per cent, from the year 1881 to 1891, when the last census was
taken. The stranger who visits it at intervals of a year or two, sees new and
substantial evidences of growth and^ prosperity every time he comes and
looks around. Hew and substantial buildings are to be seen each year, and
the already varied and important industries are continually receiving addi-
tions to their list. Everyone who visits the town gets the impression that it
is a live place. The business portion is compactly built, and there is a stir
upon the streets at all hours of the day and evening. The people move around
as if they had something to do and meant to do it, and the stores are in line
with the surroundings. The location, too, is a pleasant one, on gently rising
ground, and the centre of the town is sufficiently near the railway to save
trouble and yet not near enough to have discomfort from the noise and bustle
of the station yard. The private residences show good taste as well as a
regard for comfort, and every street has its flower gaidens, which show care-
ful attention on the part of their possessors. The adjacent country abounds
with flourishing settlements which make Amherst a centre, and even the
villages across the border favor it largely with their custom.

Humerous pleasant drives may be had in the vicinity. One of these is
to Fort Cumberland, from which there is a splendid view of the Bay and the
surrounding country for many miles. Atrip toBaie Verte and vicinity will
also prove of interest, and, indeed, as the country is well settled, and good
farms meet the eye in every part, it is hard for one to take a drive which
will not afford pleasure.

The shore to the eastward abounds with duck and geese at the proper
seasons. This part of the country is well settled and has some fine
harbors. That of Pugwash is an exceptionally good one, safe, commodious,
and deep enough for vessels of any size. Moose are found among the moun-
tains to the south of Amherst, and in other places not far away. The east
branch of River Philip, twenty-seven miles distant, and Shulee, forty miles,
are both moose grounds.

The best fishing to be had is at Fountain Lake, Westchester, which is
reached by going to Greenville station, from which a drive of five miles brings
one to Purdy’s hotel. Here there is capital accommodation. The lake is
about six miles beyond this, a pretty sheet of water, which contains very
gamey salmon trout.

WHERE THE WATERS BRING WEALTH.

In the year 1612, when Champlain was, as he believed, laying the foun-
dations of an empire at Quebec, a little ship sailed from Port Royal to spy68

out the land at the head of La Baie Francoise. It was commanded by M. de
Briencourt, a young nobleman, and Pere Biard, a missionary priest. When
they reached the shores of Chiquiniktouk—known to us as Chignecto— they
were astonished and delighted at the vast areas of natural salt marshes, ex-
tending as far as the eye could reach. They named the place Beaubassin,
because of its beauty.

The marshes at the head of thq Bay of Fundy have no equal on the
continent. Before the traveller crosses the boundary river Missiguash, he has
passed by 100,000 acres of them in the last forty miles of his journey through
New Brunswick, and, when he reaches Amherst, he is in the vicinity of 70,000
more, of which 40,000 are close at hand. Many thousands of these have been
reclaimed from the sea in recent times, but the greater proportion has been
steadily mown for the last two hundred years. A marsh, once established, is
always fertile. It needs no manure, save that supplied by nature in the deposit
of rich alluvium which is left when the turbid tides are allowed to overflow the
land. It is said that four inches of this muddy sediment, supplied in layers
of perhaps a tenth of an inch at any one tide, will insure abundant crops for
a century. One of the Cumberland marshes is known as the Elysian Fields,
but all of it may be termed a Bovine Paradise. The famous Westmoreland
and Cumberland cattle here revel in rich grasses in which their hoofs are
hidden from sight, and here are supplied the bone and sinew of the horses in
which the farmers delight. Marsh land is worth from $100 to $200 an acre,
according to the care that has been given it, and three tons of hay to the acre
is a common yield. If need were, much more than hay might be produced
from these fertile fields, but, under existing conditions, the old-time staple is
the most profitable to the farmer. His marsh is a bank which insures him
more than compound interest, and can never fail.

The Government experimental farm is situated at Nappan, a few miles
beyond Amherst, and the next station is Maccan, where the Nova Scotia coal
fields begin to show themselves. A branch railway connects the Intercolonial
with the Joggins Mines, which have a heavy annual out-put, and beyond them
is Minudie, famous for its grindstones. Beyond Maccan is Athol, from which
one may take the stage for Parrsboro, and have a pleasant drive through a
very beautiful country. If he prefer to go to the latter place by rail, he can
leave the Intercolonial at Springhill Junction and make a journey of 32
miles on the Cumberland Railway. On the way he may stop at the Spring-
hill Mines, where he will get an idea of what a Nova Scotia coal mine can
yield.

The mines at Springhill have an annual output which is double that of
any other mine in this province of coal fields. The quantity brought to the
surface at this place in 1890 was 376,550 tons, an increase of nearly 10,000
tons over the output of the preceding year. Yet it is only about a quarter
of a century since any effort was made to develop these magnificent areas, audN.S., reached by the Intercolonial Railway and its connections.	(See p. 70).70

it is within a score of years that any attempt has been made to operate them
on anything like a large scale. In that time a town of 5,000 people has
arisen where before stood only a few log houses and the solitary country
store. The increase in the population from 1881 to 1891 was at the enor-
mous rate of 434 per cent., the highest ratio in the Dominion of Canada.

The most terrible mine explosion ever known in this part of Canada
occurred here on the 21st of February, 1891, causing the loss of 125 lives, and ’
sending sorrow into many hundreds of homes. Had it not been for the
prompt relief sent from cities and towns far and near, blank destitution
would have been the fate of the most of the stricken widows and orphans.

PARRSBORO.

In a beautiful country, and on the shore of the Basin of Minas, of which
poets have sung the praise, Parrsboro has many attractions for the tourist in
quest of quiet enjoyment. It is a place of no mushroom growth, for it was
settled by the American Loyalists, who named it in honor of the first gover-
nor of Nova Scotia, which then included all of what is now New Brunswick.
The village is a busy place, and does a large business in the shipping of coal
and lumber, but what is of more importance to the traveller, it is a very
pleasant place of sojourn. A little distance inland is the warm breath of
summer, “ with spicy odors laden ” from the forests and fields, while upon the
shore are the gentle salt-water breezes, not raw and chilly as upon the Atlan-
tic sea-board, but tempered until they become most grateful to the senses.
The fogs which sometimes enter the Bay of Fundy rarely intrude here, and
never remain sufficiently long to cause a feeling of discomfort.

The most pleasant spot in the vicinity of Parrsboro is Partridge Island,
about two miles from the village. It is a peninsula with an area of fifty acres,
but becomes an island during high tides, when the water covers the low
ground in the rear. From this low ground the land rises grandly to a height
of about 250 feet, and exposes a bold and majestic bluff to the waters of the
basin. Through the beautiful woods by which it is covered, a road winds
gracefully to the summit, the timber being cleared at intervals to allow unob-
structed views of the surrounding country. These views are simply glorious.
The Basin of Minas, famed for its beauty, is here seen to its best advantage.

A splendid panorama of sea and land flashes upon the spectator. Far down,
where the waters of Fundy become broad and deep, is seen Cape D’Or over-
looking the bay. Nearer, as the channel enters the basin, stand Capes Sharp
and Split, like sentinels to guard the' pass, while Blomidon, rising from the
waves, looks down upon the fair and fertile marshes of Grand Pre—-the land
of Gabriel and Evangeline. Within the basin, the eye ranges far up into
Cobequid Bay and across to where the broad waters of the Avon seek their
journey to the sea. All round the shores are seen the tokens of a goodly71

land and a prosperous people. Here and there are islands of rare beauty,
while on all sides the mountains, valleys and plains, blend with a harmony
which no painter can portray.

The drives and walks in the vicinity of Parrsboro are numerous and
most enjoyable. The roads are always good, for the soil is of clean gravel,
and mud is unknown at any season of the year. In whatever direction one
goes, there are roads upon which it is a pleasure to drive. If another good
view is desired, a drive of two miles up the basin to Fraser’s Head or Silver
Craig, will be of advantage. Cascade Talley, three or four miles from the
village, has a picturesque waterfall, and another, having a descent of perhaps
a hundred feet, is found at Moose River, seven miles distant. One of the
most attractive drives, however, is to the beautiful Five Islands, twelve miles
away. Much of the road thither is romantic in the extreme, presenting all
kinds of scenery. For four or five miles the way lies in a gorge between the
mountains, while the towering cljffs overshadowing the scene awaken the
most sublime emotions. The beauty of Five Islands, too, is something to be
long remembered, and, indeed, the place has long had a wide fame, among
searchers for the picturesque in nature. Many prefer to visit Five Islands
by sail-boat, and excursions are very frequent.

Those who have never seen one of the curious natural roadways known
as horsebacks should take a drive in the direction of River Hebert. This
horseback begins at Fullerton’s Bridge, ten miles from Parrsboro, and con-
tinues for about eight miles. It much resembles a railway embankment,
having the river on one side and low, marshy land on the other. It formed
part of the old Military Road to Fort Cumberland, and bears the not specially
poetical name of the Boar’s Back. Geologists say that it was formed at two
branches of contact of the polar current, moving side by side but with
different velocities, thus giving the effect of an eddy. The Indians had a
different idea of its origin, and ascribed it to Glooscap, surnamed The Liar,
the mighty being who had his summer resort at Partridge Island, which they
called Puleweek Munegoo. When Mr. Glooscap felt indisposed to take his
’exercise by leaps of nine miles or so at a time, he amused himself with the
more gentle recreation of riding around the bay on the back of a whale. This
Boar’s Back, which was Ou Wokun—the causeway—was thrown up by him
in a hurry one day, while his companions were discussing which was the
shortest road from Fort Cumberland to Partridge Island. He is credited
with some other equally remarkable feats in this vicinity. Some beavers
built a dam from Blomidon to the opposite shore of what is now Minas Basin,
but when Glooscap cut the eastern end of it, The whole mass swung around
without breaking and formed Cape Split, He must have had a hand like a
steam shpvel, for the few handfuls he threw to hasten the beavers’ retreat
formed what is now known as Five Islands. Picking up a rock that was in
the way, he playfully threw it to a distance of one hundred and fifty miles,72

after which, it is to be presumed, he concluded to “ knock off and call it half
a day.” Leland's Algonquin Legends has further and fuller particulars
about this remarkable individual. He was not called The Liar during his
residence in these parts. Forbearance was not one of his distinguishing
virtues, and the fact that there were no accident policies in those days had a
tendency to repress anything in the nature of candid criticism. When he
was about to leave the earth, because the style of some of the society circles
made him tired, he invited all the beasts of the forest to a sort of five-o’clock-
fea at Partridge Island, and surprised them by putting the Algonquin equi-
valent of pour p>Tendre conge on the menu card. In the midst of the gossip,
while the charming Miss Beaver was telling the engaging Miss Muskrat about
papa's new house, while Mrs. Rabbit was showing the admirable fit of her
dark summer dress, while young Wolf was grinning away back to his ears at
the playfulness of the She Bear, Glooscap got into a canoe and sailed away
singing, in a kind of “ see you later ” sort of way. Before he left, he said he
would come back again, but as season after season passed and he failed to
return, it was considered safe to call him a liar, with all that the name
implied. It would seem no more than just that a similar title should be
bestowed upon the aboriginal gentleman who acted as his biographer.

The Basin of Minas receives the waters of nineteen rivers and their tribu-
taries, and at the upper end of it the spring tides rise to a height of sixty
feet, a record which no other part of America can equal. Around the shores
of this large haven the visitor will find much to engage his attention, visiting
Blomidon, the Islands, and the numerous peaceful bays. Sheltered from
rude winds and heavy seas, safe, capacious and beautiful, the Basin has all
that pleasure seekers may desire.

Thirteen miles to the north and west of Parrsboro, at Sand River, is
found some of the best caribou and moose hunting in Nova Scotia. Here there
is a large area in which, from the middle of September to the last of January,
an abundance of shooting may be had, both of this game and of bears.
Nearer to Parrsboro are large numbers of partridge, so plentiful indeed, that
as many as thirty-two have been shot in one afternoon. Geese, brant, ducks,
and other sea-shore game are abundant around the shores. This part of the
country always had a good reputation for sport. Two hundred and fifty
years ago, it is written, game was so plentiful that the Indians of this part of
Acadia had so little exertion to make in hunting that they were considered
sedentary in their habits. They have also disappeared, but the game is still
to be found.

This is not notably a salmon country, though some are found in Par-
tridge Island and Five Island rivers, and are present, to a certain extent, in
others. The trout fishing is fair, there being plenty of medium size. Par-
tridge Island, Moose, Diligent and Half Way rivers are the best fishing
streams. Some sport may also be had at Leak's Lake and Lake Pleasant,klge Island, Parrsboro, N.S.—Steamer “Hiawatha” at the Pier, reached by tbe Intercolonial Railway and its connections. (See p. 70).74

close to Parrsboro ; at Fullerton’s Lake, nine miles away, and at Gaspereaux
Lake, six or seven miles distant. Good salt-water fishing may be had in the
basin, where codv halibut, hake, pollock, and haddock, are found in abund-
ance. Fresh fish may, therefore, be had all through the season, while the
best of farm products are got from the adjacent country.

Little idea of the country is gained by the traveller from what he can
see from the car windows between Truro and Amherst. He will learn this from
his trip to Parrsboro, but he has very much more to learn as he proceeds.
When he reaches Oxford Junction, for instance, he does not seethe busy Ox-
ford which sends its famous homespuns to the markets of many lands, and so
in other cases he will find that drives of an hour or so will lead to some of the
fairest and most flourishing places in ISTova Scotia. Some of these are around
the magnificent harbors of the north shore, such as that at Pugwash, which
is one of the finest in the province, and some are in the fertile farming districts
which lie between the railway and the sea. The Oxford and Pictou branch of
the Intercolonial passes through some of these. It extends from Oxford
Junction to Pictou, a distance of sixty-nine miles, and may be made part of
the route to Prince Edward Island, or Cape Breton, or it may be utilized on
the return journey. The road is finished with the same careful attention to
details as is so noticeable on the main line, and it opens up a very important
section of the country. By it access is had to Pugwash, Wallace, Tatama-
gouche, River John, and other places which have long had a prosperous ex-
istence and a more than local fame. The road runs quite close to the shore
at Tatamagouche, and the traveller may see from the train the physical
feature from which it is possible the place got its name. The word Tatama-
gouche is said to mean “ like a dam,” and a ridge which rises from the water
may have suggested the idea to the practical mind of the red man. This dis-
poses of any theory that the term was used in a profane sense. The Indians,
neither having to team oxen nor put up stove pipes, had no use for swear
words. It is highly improbable that they ever said “ tatamagouche ” in the
way of ironical contempt.

Wallace and river John are villages in which a brisk trade is done, and
they are admirably situated for the purpose of the summer tourist. The
facilities for seaside recreation and the abundance of charming scenery cannot
fail to make a sojourn there a season of recreation and rest. River John, in
particular, is a delightful place, and the good roads in the vicinity give oppor-
tunities for short and interesting drives. Such places as Cape John, with its
long beaches of white sand, McDonald’s Cove and Brule, are within a radius
of five miles from the village. On the way to Brule, on a September morn-
ing, hundreds of seals may be seen sporting in the water close to the shore.
Then, too, there is fair fishing in River John, while trout are found in great
abundance in all the lakes.

Apart from the attractions to be found along the shore, this branch of75

the railway runs through a settled country where the land has long been
tilled with profit, and the people are of the substantial farming class. It needs
but a brief glance by a stranger to note the abundant evidence of the energy
and thrift of the owners o the soil.

Pictou will be referred to more fully in connection with other places in
the coal regions. Resuming his journey on the main line, the traveller is
carried over the Cobequid Mountains, and when he reaches Folleigh Lake he
is 607 feet above the sea, if he stands on the track, and somewhat higher if he
is in the upper berth of a sleeping car. This is the highest point on the In-
tercolonial, with the exception of a summit beyond the Metapediac, and the
air is very bracing. Before the days of steam, electricity and lawn tennis,
the people in this part of Nova Scotia used to livepo an abnormally old age,
and fine specimens of the old inhabitant are to be found in every settlement
to this day. The scenery among the mountains is more than picturesque.
The traveller can supply his own adjectives, according to the mood he is in
and the state of the weather. Sometimes the eye will catch a pastoral picture
of a winding valley, dotted with cottages in the midst of fertile fields, while
far below him a glistening of water tells where the river flows through the
bright green intervales, or leaps in fairy like cascades in its journey down the
hillside.

At other times the train passes through long and deep cuttings, where
the masses of rock bear witness to the labor required to break down the bar-
riers of nature. Then again the road takes a short cut from hill to hill, as at
Folleigh Valley, which is spanned by a viaduct six hundred feet long and
eighty-two feet above the little stream which trickles below.

At Londonderry a branch railway runs to the Acadia Iron Works three
miles distant, the operations of which will be of much interest to those not
familiar with the manufacture of iron from the ore. Stages also run to the
mines, and to Great Village, Economy and Five Islands.

The Londonderry iron is said to be second in value only to the Swedish
for the manufacture of steel, and its well-known strength causes the occur-
rence of its name in the stipulations of many an important contract.

TRURO.

In the month of May, 1761, the “ first families ” of Truro began to
build what is now not only one of the fairest but one of the most progressive
towns in the length and breadth of the Maritime Provinces. There were 53
of such families, numbering 120 persons, and in addition to their farming
tools and household goods their wealth consisted of 117 cattle, some seed
corn and potatoes. They were Irish, and from the North of Ireland at that.
They had been living in New Hampshire, where their posterity might have
been at war with a rocky soil to this day, if the British Government had not76

experienced one of the few happy thoughts which occurred to it in regard to
the colonists in the early years of the reign of His Majesty George the
Third.

This was no less than to utilize loyal subjects of the crown as an anti-
dote to the Indians and the Acadians. The latter had been banished from
Nova Scotia six years before, but some of them still lurked in the woods, and
Cape Breton, with its forces at Louisburg, was still held by France. Under
these circumstances, liberal inducements were offered to New England colo-
nists to come and help build up the country. There were not wanting plenty
with pluck enough to accept the invitation, and that part of the Cobequid
district, which is now Truro, was one of the Meccas in the colonial pil-
grimage.

There was little to be seen there but woods, water and mud. The agents
of Governor Lawrence had been so zealous in their work of exterminating the
French that even the score or two of houses which had been scattered over
this part of the country had lighted the fugitives with their blazing thatches.
The new comers found no cottages to shelter them. Five or six miles down
the river were two sorry looking buildings in which hay had been stored, and
with practical Celtic sense they called that place u Old Barns/7 So it is
called by all truly conservative people to this day, despite the efforts of the
iconoclast to ignore what Governor Sir Adams Archibald has very properly
designated a “ name of historic value.77 Fortunately for the peace of the
truly fashionable society of Truro to-day, no relic, not even an old horse, was
found on the site of the town, and so it received a euphonious, unhackneyed
and decidedly aristocratic name. It deserves it, and the older it grows Ihe
more apparent is this fact. It is admirably situated on gently rising ground,
with the railway running along the valley at its base, near enough to be con-
venient to the business centre, and yet not near enough to interfere with the
attractions in which good taste has been combined with what nature has done
to make the place beautiful. The long, wide streets are adorned with
shade trees; the houses, greaft and small, have well kept lawns and
tasteful flower gardens, and visitors are always well pleased with the town.
Yet the town is more than good looking; it is active and enterprising. A
number of factories of various kinds are in operation, and others are pro-
jected. The stores do a brisk business; some of the merchants are direct
importers to a large amount; and, as a whole, the commercial aspect is that
of a live place. The population is about six thousand, and is increasing at a
rapid rate.

While at Parrsboro, the visitor had a chance of looking up to Cobequid
Bay. From Truro he can reverse the picture and look down. By ascending
Penny’s Mountain, three miles from the Court House, a splendid view is had,
taking in the range of the North Mountains, terminating at Blomidon, while
the river meanders gracefully through the valley' on its way to the troubledJoe Howe Falls,” Victoria Park, Truro, N.S., on the Intercolonial Railway.	(Seep. 78).78

waters of Fundy. From Wollaston Heights, a mile from the Court House, is
found another fine view of the surrounding country, while the best views of
the town, down to the bay, are had from Wimburn and Foundry Hills. A
drive to Old Barns, otherwise known as Clifton, will be found of interest,
stopping at Savage’s Island, a mile and a half from the town. Here are the
traces of a burial ground, first set apart by the Acadians and afterwards used
by the Indians, but this circumstance does not give rise to the name of the
island. It was called after an old-time owner of the soil—a Savage by name
but not by nature. The wooden monuments of the ancient race can still be
seen ; and at times the tide, washing away portions of the bank, lays bare the
bones of those long since departed “to the Kingdom of Ponemah.” The
Shubenacadie has a bore, similar to that of the Petitcodiac, which may be
seen rushing past the island as a part of the highest tide on the continent.

Close to the-town, yet wholly apart from the surroundings of every-
day life, is Victoria Park, a place which nature has admirably adapted to
the purposes of a pleasure-ground. One portion of it is a picturesque gorge
through which tumbles a silent brook. Following its windings and travelling
the paths which lead around the well-wooded hillsides, the visitor finds a
cascade of singular beauty, pouring over a barrier of rock that rises to a height
of fifty feet or more above the pool which the waters form at its base. This
is the place of which the gifted Joseph Howe wrote, three score years ago,
that “ never was there a more appropriate spot for our old men to see visions
and our'young men to dream dreams.” Tt is the ideal of a lover’s trysting
place, where to-day as in the olden time, “ many an expression of pure and
sinless regard has burst from lips that, after long refusal, at length played the
unconscious interpreters to the heart.” After such a tribute, it is but just
that the memory of its author should be honored in the name of the Joe Howe
Falls. Further up the stream is another waterfall amid romantic surround-
ings, while the park, as a whole, is so charmingly rustic, that the best of
judgment will be required to guard against too much of alleged improvement
by man.

If one has not seen the Acadia Mines, a drive to them from Truro, a
distance of twenty miles over a good road is well worth the trouble. Another
drive of twenty miles over Tatamagouche Mountains to Farm Lake takes one
through a rich variety of mountain scenery. All the trees of the forest are to
be seen on the lofty hills and in the pleasant vales. In many places the
branches overarch the road, and amid these umbrageous shades the voices of
the birds and the music of the brooks fall sweetly on the ear. At the lake,
elevated over a thousand feet above the sea, the fisherman may enjoy a calm
content amid Nature’s beauties, and have a further reward in an abundance
of excellent trout. Trout of the best quality are found in all of the numer-
ous lakes in this vicinity.

Salmon exist in the waters around Truro, but the pursuit of them isVictoria Park, Truro, N.S., on the Intercolonial Railway.80

usually under difficulties. Sometimes they take the fly, but more times they
do not. The North and Salmon Rivers have been restocked from the Gov-
ernment establishment at Bedford, and will doubtless afford good sport in
time. In the latter river graylings are caught in large quantities. Some
allege that this fish is a trout, and others that it is a young salmon. What-
ever it may be, it is a lively player under the rod. It ranges from two to six
pounds in weight. When large salmon are caught, it is in the month of
August. None of the Nova Scotia rivers are under lease, and it costs nothing
to try one’s luck, which may, at times, prove very good. The Shubenacadie

View in Victoria Park, Truro, N.S., on the Intercolonial Railway.

and Stewiacke are worth a trial, and Crystal Lake, near Brookfield, has
afforded sport in the past. In the last named rivers the “ Admiral ” is the
favorite fly. Trout and grayling are found in the streams already named, in
the Folleigh and Debert Rivers and in Folleigh Lake. The latter is a pretty
sheet of water, with clusters of islands, and boats are kept for the use of
visitors. The lake has also been stocked with white fish from Ontario. The
“ Red Hackle ” is a good fly for any of the lakes ; the “ Brown Hackle ”^is
good in all places, while the “ May Fly ” does excellent service in the early
part, of the season.

A thick forest covers all of the range of mountains from Truro to Tata-81

magouche Bay, and affords good sport. 'The best moose ground, however, is
among the Stewiacke Mountains, commencing, say, fourteen miles from the
town. Johnson’s. Crossing, five miles, and ftiversdale, twelve miles, have
also good reputations. Caribou are migratory, and not to be depended on,
but a likely place for them is at Pembroke, twenty-three miles distant. In-
dian guides can be hired in Truro for about a dollar a day. They will do all
the cooking and camp work, and are to be relied on in matters of woodcraft.

Partridge are plentiful, and, after the latter part of July, snipe, p] over
and curlew may be bagged on the marshes within a hundred yards of the
court house. Ducks, geese and brant frequent the lakes in the fall and
spring.-

The most profitable kind of game in this part of the country is the fox
—when it does not make itself too scarce. The silver and gray reynards are
not to be despised; but that rare and valuable creature, the black fox, means
something over a hundred dollars a pelt. One of the residents struck a
bonanza, a few winters ago, by trapping four of them, and exchanging their
skins for over four hundred dollars in cash. It is but just to add that black
foxes are not sufficiently numerous to be a nuisance to the farmers, nor is
the trapping of them to be depended on as a permanent means of livelihood.

Nor are the people of Truro and Colchester of the class who trust to
luck and wait for good fortune to come to them. They are workers, who
put their shoulders together to boom the land they live in. Their list of
manufactures ranges from shoe pegs and bottled “ pop ” to millions of feet
of lumber for export and tens of thousands of tons of the best iron and steel.
Some of the farms have shamed the boundless West by a yield of forty-six
bushels of wheat to the acre, and where a poor farmer is found he may be
safely put down as an immigrant who has newly arrived from some other
place. The leading business houses of Truro would befit a city of five times
its size, while some of the private residences speak for themselves of the
culture and refinement of those who preside at their hospitable boards.

From Truro to Halifax is a distance of sixty-two miles, but it may be*,
that the traveller is on his way to Cape Breton, to visit both Halifax and St..
John later in the journey. In such case he will take the Pictou and Mulgrave-
train on that part of the Intercolonial once known as the Eastern Extension.,
calling at several places of interest on the way to the Strait of Canso.

DOWN AMONG THE COAL MINES.

Nobody knows how much coal there is in Nova Scotia. Geologists have
made estimates in regard to the areas of which they have knowledge, and
not even the Argus-eyed “ Old Subscriber,” who keeps a scrap book for the
purpose of correcting the newspapers, has ever attempted to disprove their
statements. Enough is known to show that the eastern part of the province,
682

including Cape Breton, was not big enough to hold the immense deposit, and
that if the seams were followed out under the Gulf of St. Lawrence and the
Atlantic Ocean, fuel would be found in sufficient quantity to convert every
iceberg of the Polar Sea into boiling water.

The day is far distant when resort must be had to the sub-marine
mines. The pick has been plied since the French began the work at the
Joggins and in Cape Breton, more than two hundred years ago, and the yield
is growing greater every year. More than one and three-quarters of a million
tons were taken out in 1889, an increase of two hundred per cent over the
output of a quarter of a century before. There are millions of tons more for
the generations of the future.

Three-fifths of this valuable commodity comes from the mines of the
counties of Cumberland and Pictou. They are good neighbors for the county
of Colchester, with its inexhaustible supply of iron. In the Pictou field, ac-
cording to Sir William Logan, there are 5,567 feet of strata, containing 141
feet of coal, in sixteen beds, which vary in thickness from three to thirty-
four feet. Later exploration has developed one seam of forty feet.

It will thus be seen that coal is king in this part of the country, and to
speak of a respected resident as a “ Carboniferous ” man is simply a compli-.
ment equivalent to “as good as gold 55 in other places. It answers the same
purpose to say that his conduct as a citizen is solidly “ based upon conglomerate
and amygdaloidal trap;” it is purely a matter of taste as to which is the most
...elegant term.

Nova Scotia is, accordingly, a very carboniferous sort of country, and
ooal seams are found in a great many places. The strata seen at the Joggins
mines, where the sea washes the cliffs, is said to be the best display of the
kind in the world. Pictou shows a continuation of the same field—the great
Nova Scotia coal field, with its seventy-six seams of coal and a thickness of
no less than 14,750 feet of deposits. It took a long time for all this to form.
It was so long ago, that every kind of animal which roamed in the forests of
The period has been extinct for thousands of years. Yes, the coal fields are
-pretty old; it took ages to form each ona of the seams; and yet when the
fisherman barks his shins on the granite rocks of the Nepisiguit, on Baie des
Chaleurs, he feels something that is a good deal older. It may mitigate his
wrath and repress his profanity to know that he is bruised by what was part
of the bottom of an ocean, “ before a single plant had been called into exis-
tence of the myriads entombed in the coal deposits.” So it will be seen that
coal is quite a parvenu, as compared with some of the geological families; but
it is old enough for all practical purposes where man is concerned.

The town of Pictou is reached by a branch of the railway from Stellar-
ton, another famous mining place.83

PICTOU.

Here is a place which has some claim to be called old. Wood, fashioned
by savage implements, has been found in the earth over which grew trees that
bore the ring marks of nearly three centuries. The Indians had been there
long before that tree began to grow, for at a remote period their ancestors
had feared the place, because of an ever burning fire. Therefore, they
called it “ Pictou,” or possibly “ Bucto,” just as “ The Biver of Fire” in New
Brunswick was named Rigi-buctou, - The untutored mind did not under-
stand that a camp fire, a stroke of lightning, or spontaneous combustion, had
started a flame in a coal seam, which burned from one generation to another.
It may sound like an anecdote of the lamented Glooscap, but it is really the
statement of Prof. H. C. Hovey, that when he visited Albion Mines, a few
years ago, an ancient bed of ashes, with an area of two acres, still retained
the heat of the fire which must have ceased to burn nearly three centuries
before. It is probable that some of the heat lurks there to this day.

Pictou is an old, substantial town, with the best harbor' to be found in
this part of Nova Scotia. Rising on a hill as it dues, it makes a fine appear-
ance when viewed from the water, or from the train as one approaches the
station. A closer inspection shows some handsome public and private build-
ings Vessels of all sizes and rigs are in the harbor and at the wharves, and
the scene is altogether an inspiriting one. The town does a large shipping
business, and vast quantities of coal are sent from here to places near- and
far. Trade of other kinds is brisk, and large numbers of travellers visit the
place during the summer, A line of steamers runs to Prince Edward Island
— making daily trips to Charlottetown.

Some good scenery may be found in the vicinity. An admirable view of
the surrounding country and the waters to the north and east may be enjoyed
from the roof of the Academy. Drives in the vicinity of East, West, and
Middle Rivers will also repay one. Fitzpatrick’s Mountain and Green Hill
have already been mentioned, and another good view is from Mount Thom.
Another drivp is down the shore to Caribou Point and between Caribou River
and River John. For bathing, a good place/is at Caribou Cove, less than
two miles from the town, where there is a line sandy beach. Other good
bathing places may also be found with little trouble. The country, with its
low land along the shores and hills and valleys in the interior, its lakes and
its rivers, has many scenes of real beauty.

The fishing vicinity is chiefly confined to trout. Salmon enter the
streams only in the spawning season, about the first of September, and go out
before the ice begins to form.

Barney’s, French, ^nd Sutherland Rivers and River John have good sea
trout during the summer. Middle and West Rivers have small runs of trout,84

but, taken as a whole, the rivers in this vicinity have been pretty well “fished
out.” Fine trout are, however, taken at times in Maple and McQuarrie’s
Lakes. Some good sport may be found in fishing for mackerel, cod, etc., on
the coast.

The country to the southward of Pictou has an abundance of moose. Let
one take a trip, with guides, from West River, through Glengarry, Stewiacke,
Nelson’s and Sunny Brae, and over to Caledonia, or Guysboro, and he is
pretty sure to have fair luck. Caribou are found at times,' but moose is the
chief game to be relied on. Bears are plentiful, and so are partridge. Along
the shore, snipe, plover, curlew, geese and all kinds of ducks, are found in
large numbers.

NEW GLASGOW.

There is no possibility nf any learned discussion as to the meaning of the
name of this busy town. It may be questioned whether Pictou owes its title
to the Indian word “piktook,” a bubbling up, or as has just been alleged, to
“ Bucto,” which means fire; there is no doubt as to the significance of desig-
nation of the settlement of. the men “ frae Glasgae.” It needs but a short
ramble along the curiously winding main street for the stranger to see that
the North Briton possessed the land in generations past, and that his children
and his works do follow him. Here, as in much of the country to the east-
ward, everything is as essentially Caledonian as it can be, even after the
growth of a century or more on the soil of America. Old and immortal
names in Scotland’s history adorn shop after shop, and the descendants of
those who fought with Bruce and Wallace stand behind the counters, sur-
rounded with all the insignia of peace.

There are a great many of these shops, and there are many useful indus-
. tries, some of which are of more than ordinary importance. The extensive
iron, steel and glass works are samples of these, while factories of various
kinds add to the hum of industry. Shipbuilding has been carried on here
with great success, while the adjacent coal mines have, of course, an impor-
tant effect in adding to the prosperity of the town. New Glasgow is a live
place, and its people are full of, enterprise.

The nearest place from which a good view of the surrounding country
can be obtained is Fraser’s Mountain, about a mile and a half from the town.
This view takes in Prince Edward Island, Pictou and Pictou Island, and
down the shore as far as Cape St. George, besides the country in the rear.
He who wants to see coal mines and some good scenery as well, should
drive to Stellarton, through the collieries, calling also at Middle River and
winding up at Fitzpatrick’s Mountain, Green Hill. From the latter place the
country can be seen in all directions for a distance of something like forty
miles. A drive to Little Harbor, six or seven miles, and a bathe in the salt
water, will also have attractions for the pleasure seeker. At Sutherland’s
River, six miles distant, is a fine waterfall with picturesque surroundings.I

Intercolonial Railway Passenger Station, New Glasgow, N.S.Traveller in this land of pleasure, do you want a new sensation ? If so,
take off that natty travelling suit, borrow or buy some old clothes, and explore
a coal mine. There are plenty of them in Pictou county, but if you expect
the light, airy Mammoth-Cave-sort of a place that the imagination of artists
has depicted, you may not find it. There is light enough for the workers,
and there is, too, an abundance of darkness, dirt and water which pours from
the springs of the invaded earth. Is there danger Not to you, probably;
though your guide may tell you that his father, brother or son was one of the
three score who perished in the Drummond Colliery explosion, or who sur-
vived to be one of the forty and more who perished in the famed Foord Pit.
It may give you a gruesome feeling to think of this when you are a thousand
feet or so under the earth, and you will be glad to see daylight again. Some
one has said that no one can appreciate cold water so well as a man who
suffers from the thirst which, it is said, follows a debauch. Be that as it may?
no one can better realize the beauty of green fields, the blessing of pure air
and the glory of the sunlight, than he who has been down among the coal
mines.

ANNO MURIUM.

Somewhere around this part of Nova Scotia the stranger may be fortunate
enough to find one of the very oldest inhabitants who was an eye-witness to
those most extraordinary events which happened in the Year of the Mice.
The younger generation appear to know little about it, though it was a memor-
able epoch in the history of the country. It was, in fact, a plague of mice,
which visited Pictou, Colchester and Antigonish, as well as Prince Edward
Island. As long ago as 1699, Dierville wrote that the latter place had a
plague either of mice or locusts every seven years, but in more modern times
the phenomenon has been witnessed but once. That once was enough.

It was in the year 1815 that the mice took a “ Grand Farewell Benefit,5'
in the presence of a large but far from admiring audience. They began to
show- themselves at that period of the year when the Spring Poet warbles and
the sap runs from the maples, and the first intimation of their presence wTas
the finding of their bodies in the troughs which the industrious sugar makers
had placed in the woods. An occasional mouse would do no harm in such
instances—it might give a “ body ” to the syrup ; but when it came to pass
that the mice who emulated “ maudlin Clarence in his malmsley butt ” left
little room for the sap, there was a mingling of wonder and wrath.

They were not the timid little creatures seen nowadays, which sometimes
die of fright. They were field mice of the largest kind, like half-grown rats,
and they had a boldness more than proportioned to their size. They came
from the woods, but how they got into the woods nobody has attempted to
explain ; and it is in just such cases as this that the nineteenth century misses
the ingenious liars who invented the legends of the Greeks, Romans and87

North American Indians. Nobody knows where the mice started, but “ they
got there just the same/5 By planting time they had reached the settlements,
and their number had b^en augmented7 to an extent which struck terror to
the hearts of the people; and the cry was : “ Still they come ! ” If Burns, who
had such compassion for the field mouse, had been there he would not have
stopped to write poetry, but would have got out a field roller and crushed
them by the thousand. They ate everything that mice can eat, and nearly ate
up the people, for when molested they sat on their haunches and squealed
defiance with their glistening teeth laid bare. As with the rats at Hamelin
Town in Brunswick :

‘ ‘ They fought the dogs and killed the cats,

Made nests inside men’s Sunday hats,

And even spoiled the women’s chats,

By shrieking and squeaking
In fifty different sharps and flats.”

It took a brave dog to face a mob of them, and ordinary cats proved that
good generalship is often shown by a timely and skilful retreat. Dr. Patterson,
in his History of Pictou, is authority for the statement that a farmer attempted
to sow oats at Merigomish, and was disgusted to find that the mice ate them
as fast as he sowed. Finding that his labor simply amounted to feeding part
of a hungry horde, he finally got out of patience, threw all his oats at them
and went home in intense disgust. Spreading over the country as the season
advanced, they devoured all before them. Acres were stripped of growing
crops, and still the mice grew and their appetites increased apace. Trenches
were dug and all sorts of expedients resorted to, but in vain. The mice ques-
tion became an absorbing one, when all at once the intruders made up their
minds to get up and get. But, as with the army of Napoleon in Russia, and the
followers of De Soto to the Mississippi, death marched in their midst. Thou-
sands of those that had achieved such brilliant conquests lay down and died.
Thousands more reached the sea-shore, but only to die. All along the coast
their bodies lay piled up in masses like lines of sea-weed, and for many weeks
the fish caught in the bays were found to have their maws filled with the
remains of the annihilated army of mice.

For many years after this remarkable visitation, it was the custom of
many of the people to reckon births, marriages, deaths, etc., as being such
and such a time after the year of the mice. Anno Murium took the place of
Anno Domini ; but as succeeding generations grew up, this system of chron-
ology became obsolete, and it has long since ceased to be known, save to
those who have learned it from the traditions of their fathers.

ANTIGONISH.

If you want able-bodied men, go to Antigonish. Here you will find the
descendants of Highlanders, who look able for all comers. Six feet and odd
inches tall are they, and stout in proportion.88

Antigonish is called the prettiest village in Eastern Nova Scotia. Its
neat, tidy dwellings stand amid beautiful shade trees on low ground, while
the hills rise in graceful cones near at hand. Among these hills are sweet
and pleasant valleys and the brooks are as clear as crystal. The village is
the capital of the county, and is also the seat of the Bishop of Antigonish.
St. Ninian’s Cathedral is a fine edifice, built of stone and erected at a large
expense. It is said to seat 1,200 persons. St. Francois Xavier College is
situated near it, and has many students. The community is largely com-
posed of Scotch of the Roman Catholic faith, and as many of the older people
speak Gaelic only, sermons are preached in that as well as the English lan-
guage. The harbor is eight miles away, and has a good, though rather shal-
low, beach. The village has several hotels.

It is believed that the word “ Antigonish ” is a corruption of the Indian
“ Nalkitgoniasli,” which means either Forked River or Big Eish River. T.he
latter interpretation does not have any significance in these days, for there is
little to attract the angler. The shooting, also, is poor, but good scenery is plen-
tiful. The u Lord’s Day Gale ” and other storms have done a large amount
of injury to the forests, but enough beauty remains to satisfy the sightseer.
By all odds, the most attractive spot is at Lochaber Lake, on the road to
Sherbrooke, six miles from the village. This lake is about six miles long, and
the road runs along its bank for the entire distance, amid foliage of the most
attractive character. The water is very deep and remarkably clear and pure,
while the banks rise abruptly from it and have a very beautiful effect. It
was of this lake that the late Hon. Joseph Howe said :

“Far down the ancient trees reflected lie;

Stem, branch and leaf, like fairy tracery,

Wave ’round the homes of some enchanting race,

The guardian nymphs of this delightful place.”

The Sherbrooke road is a good way by which to reach soige of the fish-
ing and hunting grounds of Guysboro. By going about twenty miles, St.
Mary’s River is reached, at the Forks. Here there is good fishing‘all along
the river, and good accommodation may be had at Melrose. From here to
the Stillwater Salmon Pools is seven miles, and some fine salmon may be
caught. Sherbrooke, a few miles lower down, is a very pretty place, and
here one may catch not only fine sea trout, but salmon ranging from fifteen
to forty pounds in weight. The fly best suited to this river is one with light
yellow body and dark yellow wings. In the other salmon rivers the
“ Admiral ” is a favorite, as well as another with turkey wing, gray body and
golden pheasant tail. Guysboro Lakes have fine trout in them. The moun-
tains of this county, too, are the haunts of moose and caribou. It is an
excellent country for sport.

The true artist—and by this is meant everyone who can appreciate the
panorama of nature—will find much to admire in this country, even as heIntercolonial Railway Passenger Station, Halifax, N.S.	(See p. 103),90

journeys on an express train. He will^ begin to see it even before he reaches
Antigonish. Such a name as that of Barney’s River may not charm the ear,
and it needs not an imaginative mind to make Marshy Hope the synonym of
all that is full of desolation and despair. Happily, the names are not indices
of the nature of the country. After leaving Barney River (why don’t they
spell it Barony V) the road runs through a canyon, extending for a number of
miles, and which is part of the beautiful Piedmont valley. Far away and
near at hand rise tree-clad hills, on which the sunshine gives a glory to the
varying hues of summer foliage, to show in vivid contrast with the shadows
cast in the vales beneath.

s^Near Antigonish is Sugar Loaf Mountain, with a height of 750 feet—
from which is a view of sea and land that includes even the shore of Cape
Breton. On another hill the traveller will see where a civil engineer, C. C.
Gregory, has shown his appreciation of the beautiful by choosing the summit
as the site of his residence and grounds. Only a few miles from Antigonish
is Gaspereau Lake, which is five hundred feet above the water in the harbor,
so it will be seen that there is no lack of hills, with all kinds of scenery, in
this part of the world.

Leaving Antigonish, South River is the first place to claim attention,
with its picturesque islands and green hills, while here and there the white
plaster rock brings out the colors of the forest and field in brighter relief. If
the journey be made in the autumn, it is almost a certainty that wild geese
and ducks will be seen at South River. It is no uncommon thing for an
approaching train to cause several flocks to rise from the river close at hand,
while at a distance may be seen the heads of thousands of others, as they
float tranquilly on the water.

Tracadie, a little more than half way between Antigonish and Port Mul-
grave, has a fine harbor, which opens into the broad and beautiful St. George s
Bay. Near here is an Indian reserve, but the most interesting community in
this part of the country is that of the Trappist Brothers, who have a monas-
tery, and are among the most expert of farmers. Despite the hills and rocks
seen on the journey, this is a fertile land, not only for staple crops, but for
the various fruits which can be brought to maturity in this latitude.

ON AN OCEAN BYE-WAY.

If the Atlantic be a highway for th'e commerce of nations, what but a
bye-way, or convenient short cut,' is the Strait of Canso. It is the great canal
which nature has placed between the ocean and the Gulf of St. Lawrence, by
which not only is distance shortened, but the perils of the sea are, in many
cases, reduced to a minimum. Fourteen miles or so in length, and about a
mile in width, its strong currents assert its claim to be part of the great sea
beyond, while the thousands of sail passing and repassing year after year, tell
of its importance to the trade of the whole Atlantic coast.91

The Intercolonial Railway reaches the Strait of Canso at Mulgrave.
Here the high land on the western shore affords some glorious views, both of
the long stretch of water, dotted with all kinds of craft, and of the sloping hills
of the island beyond. The most prominent of the heights on the mainland is
Cape Porcupine, from the summit of which the telegraph wires once crossed,
high over the waters, to Plaister Cove. In the early days of ocean cables,
those slender threads in mid air were a part of the tie which united Europe
and America. When breaks occurred—and in such an exposed situation
they were bound to occur—the link between two worlds was broken. The
adoption of submarine cables solved the problem for all time.

If one is not in a hurry to proceed to Cape Breton, he may spend a few
days to advantage in the vicinity of- Mulgrave, where there is not only some
impressive scenery, but good bathing and fair fishing. Morrison’s Lake,
which lies under the shadow of Cape Porcupine, is two miles from the wharf,
and is reached by easy road. Big Tracadie Lake is three and a half miles
distant; and Chisholm’s Lake lies between the one last mentioned and the
highway. The road is a good one and through a settled country. To the
southward of the wharf are the Goose Harbor Lakes, a chain which extends
from three miles beyond Pirate Harbor to the southern coast of Guysboro’.

“ Where and what is Terminal City ? ” may be asked by somebody who
has been trying to study up this part of Nova Scotia in advance of his journey.
The first part of the question is easily answered. It is about five miles south
of the railway at Mulgrave, and overlooks the Strait where it widens into an
indentation of the North Atlantic. What is it, is a question for the future to
answer. All’that is known to the general public is that a syndicate of United
States capitalists has secured a block of land about eight miles long and
running back three miles from the water, as well as a large block on the oppo-
site shore. The city is not yet built, but its streets have been laid out, the
lots located, and many other preliminary steps taken.

CAPE BRETON.

Cape Breton is usually spoken of as an island, but it actually consists of
a number of islands, while there are numbers of peninsulas out of which even
more islands could be made, were there any occasion for the work. Water,
fresh and salt, has been distributed very liberally in this part of the world,
and it is to this that Cape Breton owes much of its charm as the paradise of
the summer tourist.

The land does its* share as a part of the beautiful picture. There is
enough of it and some to spare, for of the more than two and a half million
acres only about a moiety is fit for cultivation. The rest of it is good for
other things. The productive coal measures, for instance, cover about 250
square miles, and there are other sources of wealth in the earth, some of
which are known and some of which have yet to be developed. Whether the92

land is good or not is of little moment to the pleasure seeker, for it is enough
for him that it is one of the finest places in America for a summer outing.
It has been so far remdved from the bustle of the world in the past that there
is a freshness about it that may be sought for in vain along the beaten high-
ways of travel. The primitive simplicity which amused Charles Dudley
Warner and other humorous writers is still to be found in many districts, but
it is no longer a troublesome journey to reach even the mysterious Baddeck
from any part of the continent. The Intercolonial system has opened up the
land, and the Cape Breton railway, which is a part of the Intercolonial)
reaches from the Strait of Canso to the harbor of Sydney, on the eastern shore.
For much of the distance it runs along the borders of that wonderfully beau-
tiful inland sea, the Bras d’Or, or of the rivers and bays that are tributary to
it. The scenery is never tame, because it is ever varied, and there are places
where the speed of the slowest train will seem but too fast to the lover of
nature’s beauty.

The railway begins at Point Tupper, just across from Mulgrave, and has
a length of ninety miles. At the outset, in aiming to provide a route as
direct as possible, it necessarily passes through a part of the country a little
removed from such settlements as those which cluster around Biver Inhabi-
tants and other places of note. For the same reason, it bridges some big gaps
which the valleys have made. The trestle over McDonald’s Gulch, with a
length of 940 feet, and a height of 90 feet above the bed of the stream, is the
second longest in Canada.

So it is that in the first half of the journey but little is seen of the people
of the country. The country itself, Iiowever, begins to give glimpses of its
beauty at such places as Seal and Orange Coves, McKinnon’s Harbor, and
the various inlets of Denys’ River. Then comes the famed Bras d’Or.

Who can describe the beauties of this strange ocean lake, this imprisoned
sea which divides an island in twain ? For about fifty miles its waters are
sheltered from the ocean of which it forms a part, and in this length it
expands into bays, inlets and romantic havens, with islands, peninsulas and
broken lines of coast-—all combining to form a scene of rare beauty, surpass-
ing the power of pen to describe. At every turn new features claim our
wonder and admiration. Here a cluster of fairy isles, here some meandering
stream, and here some narrow strait leading into a broad and peaceful bay.
High above, tower the mountains with their ancient forests, while at times
bold cliffs, crowned with verdure, rise majestically toward the clouds.
N othing is common* nothing tame : all is fitted to fill the mind with emotions
of keenest pleasure.

The Bras d’Or waters have a surface area of 450 square miles, and while
the width from shore to shore is as much as eighteen miles in one place,
there are times when less than a mile separates shore from shore. So, too,
the depth varies in somewhat tl*e same ratio as rise the surrounding hills. In
one part of Little Bras d’Or there is a depth of nearly 700 feet, the depres-North-West Arm, Halifax, N. S., on the Intercolonial Railway.	{See p. 103).94

sion equalling the height of the surrounding land. Every variety of land-
scape meets the eye of the delighted stranger, and it is because of this'variety
that the eye never wearies and the senses are never palled.

It would be useless, and doubtless impolitic, to attempt to convince the
traveller that “ Bras d’Or” is only the corru ption of a word that is not French
and has a wholly different meaning.- As one sees the calm surface made
glorious by the rising or setting sun, wi th an ambient light like that which
shone in the subtle distillations of the alchemists of old, there comes the
thought that no other title than the “ Arm of Gold” so well befits this Medi-
terranean of the Acadian Land. Yet there are not wanting those who argue
that this summer lancl had its name in common with that of “ the cold and
pitiless Labrador,” and that both are from the Spanish Terra de Laborador—
land that may be cultivated. This would apply to the surrounding country,
but there is another theory which has been used in reference to the recog-
nized Labrador, and will apply with equal force here. It is that of M. Jules
Marcou, in a paper “ Sur FOrigine du Nom d’Amerique,” to be found in the
Transactions of the Quebec Geographical Society for 1888. He avers, but
furnishes no corroborative evidence, that the name “ Brador,” or “ Bradaur,”
is an Indian word which means adeep and narrow bay,” pushing forward
through the land and corresponding to the Norwegian fiord. It may also be
remarked that Deny s’ map, dated 1672, shows “Le Lac de Labrador,” in
what is now Cape Breton.

Between the claims of the Indians, Spaniards, French and English, in-
cluding the abominably bad spellers who undertook to write books and make
maps, there is a good deal of haziness about some of the names in this
country. Some people prefer “ Canseau ” to the common Canso of commerce,
because it has more of a French look, but it is a debatable question whether
the word is not a corruption of the Spanish Ganso, a goose, or the Indian
Camsoke, meaning high bluffs. Even the people who live hereabouts can
throw no light on the subject.

In following the railway, the stranger will occasionally see what looks
like a shallow pond, a hundred feet or so in diameter. It may surprise him
to learn that the bottom is sixty or a hundred feet from the surface. This is
a country of heights and depths, where at times the train runs through long
cuttings where the white plaster rock looms up on each side, to travel for
hundreds of yards on high embankments in which the excavated material has
been made to bridge a valley. There is nothing flat about the scenery, unless
it may be the water, and even that is so only in a purely literal sense.

Nor is that always as flat as some would like it to be when they have
to cross the Bras d’Or after a heavy gale. The inland sea is but a part of the
Atlantic, and an outside storm may sweep its waters into fury. The direction
of the wind makes all the difference in the world.

Grand Narrows is the half-way point between Mulgrave and Sydney, and95

a very comfortable stopping place it is, with the advantage of an hotel run on
modern principles. Here the Bras d’Or changes from a broad basin to make
its way through a passage less than a mile in width, the name of which is
Barra Strait. Why the village does not have the euphonious name of Barra,
instead of the less tasteful one of Grand farrows, is a question for some of
the residents to answer. It is a pretty enough place, with many opportunities
for the tourist to find summer recreation. The climate in all this part of the
country is delightful. With all the benefits of salt w ater breezes, there is very
little fog, and what there is of it is neither frequent, thick nor of long duration.
A prominent resident of Grand Narrows is authority for the statement that
he has known five consecutive summers to pass without a trace of this moist
visitant.

Grand Narrows is centrally situated as regards some of the most inviting
spots in Cape Breton. Baddeck is only twelve miles distant, by water, and
a trip of twenty miles from it takes one to the beautiful Whycocamagh. It is
hardly necessary to say that opportunities for good bathing and safe boating
are found everywhere in this diversified region of land and water, while there
is an abundance of fishing. Trout are caught with the fly from the Bras d’Or,
as close to the hotel as the railway bridge, and what is more singular, fine fat
codfish also rise to the fly and are easily taken. Good sized trout are also
found at Benacadie, a few miles away, and at Eskasonie, a little further
removed. The Biver Denys has also a fine reputation among anglers.

The Bras d’Or is famed for its fine codfish, and the catching and curing
of them has been an important source of revenue to the people. Lobsters
are also abundant, and smelts are equally plentiful in their season.

Then as for game, the sportsman may find all the partridge he seeks in
the woods, and thousands of plover, black duck, curlew and other sea fowl,
at all the inlets along the shore for many a mile along the line of railway.
Grand Narrows has not a monopoly of the good things, but it is convenient
because of its central situation.

The railway bridge which crosses Barra Strait at Grand Narrows is a
handsome as well as substantial structure, with a length of 1697 feet. It is
the link which connects the eastern and western divisions of the road. It was
formally opened in October, 1890, by Lord Stanley of Preston, Governor-
General of Canada. His Excellency stood in the cab of the engine and
acted as driver during the passage across.

Everybody who wants to see the beauties of Cape Breton will go to
Baddeck, that picturesque village which rises gently on a graceful incline
from a land-locked harbor. The situation is a most happy one, while no
description can convey an adequate idea of the charms of the scenery.
Everything looks bright and* beautiful; sky, sea and green clad hills are
shown in their fairest hues, while all the surroundings are such as to fill the
soul with a sense of peace and rest. An entrancing sail of twenty miles along96

St. Patrick’s Channel and through Little Narrows, will bring one to Whyco-
camagh, another village famed for its beauty, to which much that has been
said of JBaddeek will apply. This is a good point from which the fishing
resorts at Lake Ainslie and Margaree Liver, where both salmon and trout
are found, may be reached. From here, also, easy access may be had to River
Denys, to which reference has already been made.

To the north of this part of the country is an area of about 1,100 square
miles, consisting of a vast plateau which is at times at an elevation of 1,200
feet above the sea. This is still wild and unsettled, and a journey of a few
hours from Baddeck will take the hunter into the land of the moose and
caribou. Should one be ambitious to reach the most northerly point in N ova
Scotia, and be in a higher latitude than when in the city of Quebec, he can
follow the lonely roads along the coast to Cape St. Lawrence and Cape
North. From the latter it is a little more than sixty miles to Newfoundland,
while the gloomy rock known as St. Paul’s Island, the terror of mariners in
former times, lies between. It has well been said that this part of Cape
Breton is the key to the St. Lawrence.

From Cape St. Lawrence the distance to the Magdalen Islands is but
fifty miles. The waters which lie between have been the scene of many a
tragedy in the past. One of the most memorable of these was the Lord’s
Day Gale, of 23rc^ of August, 1873, which brought mourning to so many
fishermen’s families in New England and the Provinces. Traces of this
terrible visitation are to be found all along the shore on this part of the
Gulf, The graphic description by E. C. Stedman is only too faithful.

Cape Breton and Edward Isle between,

In strait and gulf the schooners lay;

The sea was all at peace, I ween,

The night before that August day;

Was never a Gloucester skipper there,

But thought erelong, with a right good fare,
To sail for home from St. Lawrence Bay.

The East Wind gathered all unknown,—

A thick sea-cloud his course before;

He left by night the frozen zone
And smote the cliffs of Labrador;

He lashed the coast on either hand,

And betwixt the Cape and Newfoundland
Into the Bay his armies pour.

• He caught our helpless cruisers there

As a gray wolf harries the huddling fold;
A sleet—a darkness—filled the air,

A shuddering wave before it rolled: t
That Lord’s Day morn, it was a breeze,—

At noon, a blast that shook the seas,—

At night—a wind of death took hold !Drive-ways in Mount Pleasant Park, Halifax, N.S., on the Intercolonial Railway.	(See p. 108).98

From Saint Paul’s light to Edward Isle
A thousand craft it smote again;

And some against it strove the while,

And more to make a port were fain:

The mackerel gulls flew screaming past,

And the stick that bent to the noonday blast
Was split by the sundown hurricane.

•	There were twenty and more of Breton sail,

Fast anchored on one mooring ground;

Each lay within his neighbor’s hail,

•	When the. thick of the tempest closed them round:

All sank at once in the gaping sea,—

Somewhere on the shoals their corses be,

The foundered hulks and the seamen drowned.

On reef and bar our schooners drove
Before the wind, before the swell;

By the steep sand cliff their ribs were stove,—

Long, long their crews the tale shall tell !

Of the Gloucester fleet are wrecks three score;

Of the Province sail two hundred more
Were stranded in that tempest fell.

Returning to the Bras d’Or, and resuming the railway journey eastward,
one has little time or inclination for gloomy sentiment in the scenes amid
which he finds himself. It has been said that the interior of Cape Breton
more nearly resembles some parts of Scotland than does any other part of
Canada. Be that as it may, one will find whole settlements of Highland
Scotch, who seem perfectly at home amid their surroundings. In some dis-
tricts Gaelic is spoken almost to the exclusion of English, and it is still the
tongue heard from many a pulpit. Very often they will be found to be a
primitive people, with a simplicity of character which shows their unfamili-
arity with the ways of the world beyond the confines of their birthplace. The
stranger is always welcome, and when he requires a service they are on the
alert to gratify his wishes. They do it with an air of being anxious^o oblige,
and very often look surprised when offered compensation. Roman Catholics
in their faith, the priest is a mighty power among them, and in no way is this
more clearly shown than in the restriction of the sale of liquor in some of the
country parishes. The voice of their spiritual adviser will do more than all
the acts which Parliament may pass and the authorities seek to enforce.

From Barra Strait to Sydney, a distance of forty-five miles, the railway
journey permits some extended and beautiful views of the Little Bras d’Or.
Some of the land attains a high elevation as it recedes from the shore, and
though this part of the Bras d’Ormay be called “little,”-the greatest depth
of water in Cape Breton is found between Boisdale and Boularderie. The
latter is one of the several islands into which this country is divided
and is in the shape of a tongue some twenty-six miles long and only two or
three miles wide, except at the eastern portion where it widens to about
double that distance. Some attractive scenery is found at Long Island,99

which lies close to the shore traversed by the railway, in the vicinity of
George’s River.

The country is not only more settled but more fertile as the traveller
proceeds, and in the vicinity of the Sydneys the evidences of thrift and
prosperity are seen on every hand. One can hardly believe that two centuries
ago the Indians and one or two missionaries were the only occupants of all
this part of America. The practical settlement of Cape Breton by the
English dates back to but little more than a hundred years ago.

Sydney, which dates its foundation back to 1783, is not an old town,
as towns go even in Canada, but it has a wide and enviable reputation. Its
bituminous coal is of a quality for which people everywhere are willing to pay
the highest price, and there is a never-failing supply of it. The quantity
available in the fields of Cape Breton is estimated at a thousand million tons.
This does not include the numberless seams less than four feet in thickness,
nor the vast body which lies under the ocean between Cape Breton and New-
foundland, one area of which is believed to contain 2,500 acres, with an
estimated yield of thirty-five million tons.

A good harbor is one of the features of Sydney, and here in the busy
season may be seen all kinds of shipping, from the ocean steamer to the
coasting schooner. Around the harbor proper are grouped the mines and
the lively town of North Sydney, which is also reached by rail from North
Sydney Junction.

If the tourist has the time it may repay him to take a trip to Cow Bay
or Mire Bay, on the eastern shore. At the latter place he will not only
find a large and beautiful harbor but a very curious river, which has been
properly described as being more'in the nature of along, narrow and crooked
lake. From here, also, he can, but is not likely to, satisfy his ambition by
standing on the very furthest Down East Point in the Dominion of Canada,
south of the Province of Quebec. It is on Scatari Island, and standing on
its shore one may realize that for more than 2,300 miles to the eastward and
over 1,600 miles to the southward, lies the unbroken Atlantic ocean.

On this coast, too, is a place made famous ere the English flag waved in
supremacy over Canada. It is Louisburg, once one of the strongest fortified
cities of the world, but now a grass-grown ruin where not one stone is left
upon another. Once it was a city with walls of stone which made a circuit
of two and a half miles, were thirty-six feet high, and of the thickness of
forty feet at the base. For twenty-five years the French had labored upon
it, and had expended upwards of thirty millions of livres or nearly six million
dollars in completing its defences. It was called the Dunkirk of America.
Garrisoned by the veterans of France, and with powerful batteries command-
ing every point, it bristled with most potent pride of war. To-day it is
difficult to trace its site among the turf which marks the ruins. Seldom has
demolition been more complete. It seemed built for all time ; it has vanished
from the face of the earth.100

Every New Englander should visit Louisburg. Its capture by the un-
disciplined New England farmers, commanded by William Pepperal, a
merchant ignorant of the art of war, is one of the most extraordinary events
in the annals of history. The zealous crusaders set forth upon a task, of the
difficulties of which they had no conception, and they gained a triumph
which should make their names as immortal as those of the “ noble six hun-
dred.” It was a feat without a parallel—a marvel among the most marvellous
deeds which man has dared to do.

Restored to France by the peace of Aix la Chapelle, Louisburg was
again the stronghold of France on the Atlantic coast, and French veterans
held Cape Rreton, the key to the Gulf of St. Lawrence. The brief truce was
soon broken, and then came the armies of England, and Wolfe sought and
won his first laurels in the New World. Louisburg fell once more and the
knell of its glory was rung. The conquest of Canada achieved, the edict
went forth that Louisburg should be destroyed. The work of demolition
was begun. The solid buildings, formed of stone brought from France,
were torn to pieces; the walls were pulled down, and the batteries rendered
useless for all time. It took two years to complete the destruction, and
then the once proud city was a shapeless ruin. Years passed by; the stones
were carried away by the dwellers along the coast; and the hand of time was
left to finish the work of obliteration. Time has been more merciful than
man; it has covered the gloomy ruin with a mantle of green and has healed
the gaping wounds which once rendered ghastly the land that Nature made
so fair. The surges of the Atlantic sound mournfully upon the shore—the
requiem of Louisburg, the city made desolate.

Another Louisburg exists to day, across the harbor from the site of the
former city. It has a population of about 1,000, and is reached by the Syd-
ney and Louisburg Railway, a narrow gauge line, thirty-one miles in length.
The site of old Louisburg may be visited and the lines of some of the fortifi-
cations traced, and one who has a history which gives a good account of the
sieges, may be interested and instructed in following out the plans of the
attacking parties. There is a magnificent harbor which opens on the broad
ocean, and one may enjoy all the pleasures of life by the sea-shore, on the
ground where the treasures of a nation were squandered.

The Bras d’Or, in all the beauty of its many nooks and bays, may be seen
by taking one of the steamers that make daily trips between Sydney and
Mulgrave. East Bay, which is not seen from the railway, may be visited by
this route, while the southern passage between Bras d’Or and the ocean will
be found at St. Peter’s Canal. This is another place where Cape Breton
gets the addition of an island by a narrow passage between two sections of
the land, though man, rather than Nature is responsible for it. Formerly
theAwhole?450 square miles of water in the Bras d’Or had communication
with" the sea only on the north-east coast, though at St. Peter’s Bay, onlyto Public Gardens, Halifax, N.S., on the Intercolonial Railway.	(See p, 10S).102

a half mile or so of isthmus prevented a south-west passage, with the
avoidance of all the risks of navigation around the coast and a vast saving of
time and distance. The construction of the canal solved the problem in a
very simple and satisfactory way.

There are times when some of the most glorious of Nature’s panoramas
can be seen in the vicinity of St. Peter’s. On a calm summer’s morning the
peaceful sea is a mirror which reflects in rare beauty the red, purple and
golden hues which the sunlight gives the hills. On the land the colors are
strangely bright, while the waters soften and blend the whole into a picture
which must ever linger in the memory.

Around and among the islands, past high bluffs, gentle slopes of vivid
green and sombre mountains rising far away, the traveller enters the Strait
of Canso once more. According to his opportunities and inclination, he has
seen much or little of the beauties of Cape Breton. Few indeed are likely to
feel tbat a hasty journey has been sufficient to show them all they would like
to see. They will come again another year—and it may be, yet another—
never wearying in their wanderings in this peaceful summer land.

TRURO TO HALIFAX.

From Truro to Halifax the railway runs through a fine country, the
most flourishing portion of which is not seen by the traveller. Large tracts
of rich intervale and excellent upland combine to make one of the finest
farming districts in Nova Scotia. Through this flows the Stewiacke River,
which takes its rise among the hills of Pictou and flows for forty miles or so,
until it empties into the Shubenacadie at Fort Ellis. The Shubenacadie is a
large and swift stream, and was at one time looked upon as the future high-
way of commerce across the province. More than half a century ago the
people of Halifax grew excited over the idea that the trade of the basin of
Minas was being carried to St. John. Nature had placed a chain of lakes at
the source, of the river, and it would seem that art would have little trouble
in constructing a canal. Meetings were held, surveys and speeches were
made, money was subscribed, and the work was begun. It was never
finished, and never will be. The enthusiasm subsided, the supplies ceased,
and the Great Shubenacadie Canal was abandoned. The ruins still exist,
but the railway Has taken the place of a canal for all time to come.

Both the Stewiacke and the Shubenacadie have good fishing, and so
have the lakes beyond the latter as Windsor Junction is approached. ( Grand
Lake has fine fishing in June, July, September and'October. Some years
ago, 120,000 whitefish were put into this lake and are doing well. All the
lakes of Halifax county afford good fishing, but the rivers, with few excep-
tions, are short and rapid streams which become very low during the summer

season.103

As for game, the fact that, in September, 1890, an express train ran
down and killed three moose, within a hundred yards of Wellington station,
twenty-one miles from Halifax, speaks for itself.

The country from Shubenacadie east to Canso abounds with moose
and other game, as has already been intimated in connection with Guysboro.

Windsor Junction, fourteen miles from Halifax, has admirable facilities
for the pasturage of goats, and the procuring of ballast for breakwaters.
Here the line branches off to Windsor, and down the Annapolis Valley by
the Windsor and Annapolis Railway. Passing by the Junction, the next
station is Bedford, nine miles from Halifax, and here is seen the upper end of
that beautiful sheet of water—Bedford Basin. Along its shores the train
passes and, as the city becomes nearer, the beauty of the scene increases.
At'length the city is reached, and the traveller alights in one of the finest of
the Intercolonial structures, the North Street Depot.

HALIFAX.

Everybody has heard of Halifax, the city by the sea, and of its fair and
famous harbor. This harbor, they have been told, is one of the finest in the
world—a haven in which a thousand ships may rest secure, and yet but a
little way removed from the broad ocean highway which unites the eastern
and the western worlds. They have been told, also, that this harbor is
always accessible and always safe; and all of this, though true enough, does
the harbor of Halifax but scant justice. All harbors have more or less of
merit, but few are like this one. Here there is something more than merely
a roomy and safe haven—something to claim more than a passing glance.
To understand this we must know something of the topography of the city.

Halifax is located on a peninsula and founded on a rock. East and
west of it the sea comes in, robbed of its terrors and appearing only as a
thing of beauty. The‘water on the west is the North-west Arm, a stretch
of about three miles in length and a quarter of a mile in width. To the
south and east is the harbor, which narrows as it reaches the upper end of
the city and expands again into Bedford Basin, with its ten square miles of
safe anchorage. The Basin terminates at a distance of nine miles from the
city, and is navigable for the whole distance. The city proper is on the
eastern slope of the isthmus and rises from the water to a height of 256 feet
at the citadel, ' On the eastern side of-the harbor is the town of Dartmouth.
In the harbor, and commanding all parts of it, - is the strongly fortified
George’s Island, while at the entrance, three miles below, is McNab’s Island,
which effectually guards the passage from the sea. This is a brief and dry
description of the city. It would be just as easy to make a longer and more
gushing one, but when people are going to see a place for themselves they
don’t take the bother to wade through a long account of metes, bounds and
salient angles. Halifax must be seen to be appreciated.104

Halifax is a strong city in every way. It has great strength in a mili-
tary point of view ; it has so many solid men that it is a tower of strength
financially; it is strongly British in its manners, customs and sympathies;
and it has strong attractions for visitors. Let us analyze some of these
points of strength.

First, the military. There was a time when the military element was
necessarily the first to be considered. One of the first acts of the settlers
was to fire a salute in honor of their arrival, and as soon as Governor Corn-
wallis had a roof to shelter his head, they placed a couple of cannon to
defend it and mounted a guard. They had need of military. Indians saw
in their arrival a probable H boom ” in scalps, and every Indian in the neigh-
borhood sharpened his knife for the anticipated “hum.” These Indians
were neither the devotional ones whom Cowper holds up for the imitation of
Sunday school scholars, nor yet the playful and docile ones who borrowed
tobacco from the late William Penn. They were savages, as destitute of
pity and sentiment as they were of decent clothes. It was, therefore,
essential that the men of Halifax should be of a military turn of mind, and
every boy and man, from sixteen to sixty years of age, did duty in the ranks
of the militia. Later, the town became an important military and naval
station; ships of the line made their rendezvous in the harbor and some of
England’s bravest veterans were quartered in its barracks. Princes, dukes,
lords, admirals, generals, captains and colonels walked the streets from kime
to time; guns boomed, flags waved, drums beat and bugles sounded, so that
the pride and panoply or war were ever before the people. And so they are
to-day. The uniform is seen on every street, and fortifications meet the eye
at every prominent point.

Chief among the fortifications is the Citadel, which crowns the city,
commenced by the Duke of Kent, and altered, varied and transposed until
it has become a model of military skill. Its history has been a peaceful one
and is likely to be. If it should be assailed it appears well able for a siege.
The citizens, too, are truly loyal to the crown; and the people who expect
to hurrah when the British flag is lowered in submission to Provincial Home
Bulers or foreign foes will have a long while to wait. Visitors were once
allowed to inspect the works, ‘but of late the regulations have been more
stringent. If in future they should be relaxed, the man who always follows
Captain Cuttle’s advice to make a note of what he sees, is recommended to
refrain from using pencil and paper within the limits of any of the forts. It
is'"bad taste; and, besides, the authorities will not permit it.

The seeker after a good view of the city and its surroundings may have
the very best from the Citadel. It commands land and water for many
miles. The Arm, the Basin, the harbor with its islands, the sea with its
ships, the distant hills and forests, the city with its busy streets—all are
present to the eye in a beautiful and varied panorama. Dartmouth, acrossA View in the Public Gardens, Halifax, N.S., on the Intercolonial106

the harbor, is seen to fine advantage, while on the waters around the city
are seen ships of all the nations of the earth. No amount of elaborate
word-painting would do justice to the view on a fine summer’s day. It must
be seen, and once seen it will not be forgotten.

The fortifications on McNab’s and George’s Islands, as well as the
various forts around the shore, are all worthy of a visit. After they have
been seen, the visitor will have no doubts as to the exceeding strength of
Halifax above all the cities of America. The dockyard, with splendid ex-
amples of England’s naval power, is also an exceedingly interesting place,
and always presents a picture of busy life in which the “ oak-hearted tars ’’
are a prominent feature.

The financial strength of Halifax is apparent at a glance. It is a very
wealthy city, and as its people have never had a mania for speculation, the
progress to wealth has been a sure one. The business men have always had
a splendid reputation for reliability and honorable dealing. The banks are
safe, though the people did business until comparatively recent times without
feeling that such institutions were necessary. A cash business and specie
payments suited their wants. At length several leading men started a bank.
They had no charter and were surrounded by no legislative enactments. No
one knew how much capital they had, or what amount of notes they had in
circulation. No one cared. They were “ solid men,” and that was enough ;
and so they went on for years—always having the confidence of the public,
and always being as safe as any bank in America. The chartered banks of
Halifax now do the work, but the solid men of Halifax are still to be found,
in business and out of it.

Halifax is the most British city on the continent. Long association
with the army and navy has accomplished this. There are some Provincial
people who, after a six months’ sojourn in the United States, are very much
more American than the simon pure Yankee. This could not happen in
Halifax. They are, for once and for all, the faithful and liege subjects of Her
Majesty, her heirs and successors, and the fashion and tastes of the people
must be governed by the land beyond the sea. So the people have all that
is admirable in English business circles and polite society. That is to say,
they preserve their mercantile good names by integrity, and their homes
are the scenes of good old-fashioned English hospitality. A stranger who
has the entree into the best society will be sure to carry away the most
kindly recollections of his visit. In no place will more studious efforts be
made to minister to the enjoyment of the guest—it matters not what his
nationality may be.

The strong attractions for visitors are so numerous that a city guide
book is necessary to explain them in their proper order. The drives can be,
varied according to the taste and the time of sojourn. To skirt the city one
may drive down the Point Pleasant road and up the Nort-west Arm. This

out to Sea, from Dartmouth, opposite Halifax, N.S., on the Intercolonial Railway.	(See p. 103).108

gives a fine view of the harbor and its objects of interest. The Arm is a
beautiful place, and around it are many elegant private residences, the homes
of men of wealth and taste. This is one of the most pleasant parts of Hali-
fax. From the Arm one may drive out on the Prospect Hoad and around
Herring Cove. The view of the ocean had from the hills is of an enchanting
nature. Another drive is around Bedford Basin, coming home by the way
of Dartmouth ; or one may extend the journey to Waverly and Portobello
before starting for home, the drive being in all twenty-seven miles. If one
has a fancy for bathing in the surf, he should go to where the sea rolls in
with a magnificent sweep, at Cow Bay. This beautiful place, which
furnishes another instance of theN horribly literal nomenclature of the early
settlers, is ten miles from Halifax, on the Dartmouth side. The drive to it
is through a pretty piece of country. All around Halifax are bays, coves,
islands and lakes, any one of which is worthy of a vi$it, so that the tourist
may see as much or as little as he pleases. Excursions to McNab’s
Island, at the mouth of the harbor, are also' in order during the fine days of
summer.

In the city itself, there is a great deal to be seen. It is expected that
strangers will visit the Fish Market, and it will be well to attend to this
before it is forgotten. The people are proud of it—not the building, but its
contents—and the visit is a very interesting one to those who like to see
fish. Then, of course, one must go to the Province Building, which Judge
Haliburton claimed to be “ the best building and the handsomest edifice in
North America.” Then comes the new Province Building, with its fine
museum, open to the public. After these come the churches, asylums and
all kinds of public institutions—some of which bear glowing tribute to the
charity and philanthropy of the people. Halifax has a large number of
charities in proportion to its size, and the results cannot fail to be good.
The Public Gardens belonging to the city will be found a most pleasant re-
treat, with its trees and flowers, fountains, lakes, and cool and shady walks.
Here one may enjoy the fragrance of nature in all rts glory, while the eye
is feasted with nature’s beauties.

One should have a sail on Bedford Basin, that fair expanse of water,
broad, deep, blue and beautiful. Here it is that yachts and boats of all
kinds are to be found taking advantage of so fair a cruising ground,
spreading their sails before the breezes which come in from the Atlantic.
It was on the shore of this Basin that the Duke of Kent had his residence,
and the remains of the music pavilion still stand on a height which over-
looks the water. The “ Prince’s Lodge,” as it is called, may be visited
during the land drive to Bedford, but the place is sadly shorn of its former
glory, and the railway, that destroyer of all sentiment, runs directly
through the grounds. It was a famous place in its day, however, and the
memory of the Queen’s father will long continue to be held in honor by the
Halifax people.109

Halifax has communication with all parts of the world, by steamer and
sailing vessel. Hither come the ocean steamers with mails and passengers,
and numbers of others which make this a port of call on their way to and
from other places. A large trade is carried on with Europe, the United
States and the West Indies, and from here, also, one may visit the fair Ber-
mudas, or'" the rugged Newfoundland. Steamers arrive and depart at all
hours, and the harbor is never dull. One can go to Europe or any of the
leading places of America without delay—Liverpool, Glasgow, the West
Indies, New York, Boston, Portland, Newfoundland and Quebec—these are
some of the points with which direct communication is had by steamer. The
man who wants a sea voyage can take his choice.

This port is also a deep water terminus of the Intercolonial Railway ?
and has a grain elevator, built at the cost of $100,000, with a capacity of
150,000 bushels. Its cotton factory has a capacity of 10,000 spindles and
is called the finest in the Maritime Provinces. The Nova Scotia sugar
refinery cost half a million dollars and it has a capacity of 2,000 barrels a
day. There is another large refinery in Dartmouth, on the opposite side
of the harbor. Halifax has also a marine railway, but the most important
of the works around the harbor is the dry dock. This dock is not only
one of the great features of the place, but a work of which all Canada may
be proud.

The harbor of Halifax is well termed one of the finest in the world.
The commercial interests of the city have always been most extensive, and
shipping is always around its waters in craft of all kinds and of every nation
that has a foreign trade. This harbor is six miles long, with the average
width of a mile, and it is not only a capacious sheet of water but a very
beautiful one.

OUTSIDE OF HALIFAX.

The county of Halifax extends along the Atlantic coast nearly a hun-
dred miles and has a number of fine harbors. Its fisheries are second in
value only to the great fishing county of Lunenburg, and are valued at nearly
a million dollars a year.

The traveller may go east or west along the shore, according as his taste
may be for sport or for a mere pleasure trip. To the eastward is a some-
what wild country, on the shores of which fishing is extensively carried on,
and which has numerous arms of the sea which admirably suit the occupation
of its people. Back from the shore, the country abounds in heavy forests, and
is abundantly watered with lakes. This is the great country for moose and
caribou. They are found in all the eastern part of the country, and within
easy distance of the settlements. Here is the place for sportsmen—a hunter’s
paradise. It was down in this country, at Tangier, that the first discovery
of gold was made in Nova Scotia. The finder was a moose hunter, a captain110

iii the Army. Gold mining is still followed, and some of the leads have
given splendid results.

To the west of Halifax the great attraction is to take the Lunenburg
stage line and go to Mahone Bay. The drive is one of the most beautiful to
be found. For much of the way the road skirts a romantic sea shore, with
long smooth beaches of white sand, on which roll the clear waters of the
ocean. The ocean, grand in its immensity, lies before the traveller. Along
the shore are green forests, wherein are all the flora of the country, while at
times lofty cliffs rear their heads in majesty, crowned with verdure and glor-
ious to behold. One of these is Aspotagoen, with its perpendicular height
of five hundred feet, the first land sighted by the mariner as he approaches
the coast. All these beauties prepare the stranger for Chester, a most allur-
ing place for all who seek enjoyment. It is only 45 miles from Halifax, the
road to it is excellent, and the stages are models of speed and comfort. The
village has two hotels, and private board is also to be had, with all the com-
forts one desires. The scenery of Chester is not to be described. It is
magnificent. Whether one ascends Webber’s Hill and drinks in the glorious
views for mile upon mile, or roams on the pure, silvery beach, or sails among
the hundreds of fairy islets in the bay,—all is of superb beauty. No fairer
spot can be chosen for boating, bathing and healthful pleasure of all kinds
than Mahone Bay and its beautiful surroundings.

The fishing of this part of Nova. Scotia is, to a great extent, for sea
trout, which are found in the estuaries of all the rivers. Salmon is found
where the river is of good volume and the passage is not barred. Gold
River, at the head of Mahone Bay, has good salmon fishing in May and
June. In the other rivers to the westward the best time is in March and
April. The sea trout are found in the estuaries at all times during the sum-
mer. To the east of Halifax, fine sea trout are caught in Little Salmon
River, seven miles from Dartmouth, in the month of September, while
further down, both salmon and sea trout are caught from June to September,
in such streams as the Musquodoboit, Tangier, Sheet Harbor, Middle and
Big Salmon River. Besides this, it will be remembered that trout are found
in all of the many lakes.

Returning to Halifax to bid it adieu, the visitor will have leisure to
examine the Intercolonial Depot, before the departure of the train. The
building is a fine specimen of architecture,—handsome in appearance, roomy,
comfortable, and in ever/ way adapted to the wants of the travelling public.
It is so well fitted up, and so convenient, that the ordinary nuisance of
having to wait for a train is so thoroughly mitigated that it is converted into
a pleasure.

The trains of the Windsor and Annapolis Railway run fronflthis depot,
and can be taken twice a day by those who wish to visit the fair Annapolis
Valley. The main line is left at Windsor Junction, and the traveller pre-
pares himself to see the beauties of the “ Garden of Nova Scotia.”Ill

Do not be in a hurry ! The garden is not in sight yet—these rocks and
scraggy woods are not part of it—and it will be just as well not to look out
of the window for a while, until the land assumes a more cheerful aspect.
This will not be long. The appearance of the country improves after a few
miles of travel and soon becomes really attractive. Windsor is reached—classic
Windsor—and the broad Avon River is crossed by a splendid iron bridge.

No one can deny that Windsor is a pretty place, with its hills, meadows,
and the Basin of Minas within view. The Avon is a noble river at high

O

water—at low water its banks of mud are stupendous. It is the tide from
the Basin which gives the river its beauty, as it does nearly a score of other
rivers, great and small. Despite of the mud, Windsor has a peculiar charm
about its scenery, and well merits the name of one of Nova Scotia’s beautiful
towns. Leaving Windsor, the road, ere long, enters a country which
Longfellow has made famous. Since “ Evangeline ” was composed, no one
has ever written of this part of N ova Scotia, without quoting more or less of
the poem. It is considered the correct thing to do so § but, for once, there
shall be an exception to the rule. The temptation is great, but is nobly
resisted. People knpw Evangeline, without having it done up to them in
fragments. Let the task be left to newspaper correspondents, and to the
noble army of those who have written “ Lines on the death of Longfellow.”

Grand Pre, as all know, means great meadows, and we have only to look
around to see how fitting is the name. The Acadians had about 2,100 acres
of it when they had their home here, and there is more than that to-day. In
the distance is seenBlomidon, rising abruptly from the water, the end of the
North Mountain range. The Basin of Minas, which runs inland for sixty
miles, shines like a sheet of burnished silver in the summer sunshine. It is
a beautiful place which the sweet singer has made famous, and yet he lived
and died within two days’ journey of it and never saw it. Do you know
why *1 It was that he cherished a sweet ideal which he feared the reality
would mar. He need not have feared, for though he would have looked in
vain for the forest primeval, and might have found some of his statements
open to grave doubt, he could not have failed to admire the placid beauty of
the scene. It is not too much to say that the poem of “ Evangeline ” has
done more to make Nova Scotia famous than all the books which have ever
been written. The author could well have boasted as Horace did, “ Exegi
monumentum cere perennius.”

Few traces of the French village are to be found. It has vanished from
the earth, but the road taken by the exiles, as they sadly made their way to
the King’s ships, may still be traced by the sentimental tourist. Let such a
one not search too deeply into history, lest his idea of the Acadians receive
a change, but let him be content with the poet’s version and feel that,

“To their annals linked while time shall last,

Two lovers from the shadowy realms are seen,

A fair, immortal picture of the past,

The forms of Gabriel and Evangeline.”112

Wolfville is another beautiful place, and beyond it is KLentville, where
the General Offices of the Windsor and Annapolis Railway are situated,
and a point from which Mahone Bay may be reached by stage across the
country. Kentville has many attractions for the lover of the beautiful, as
found in peaceful landscape, and is well worthy of a visit. A little later the
famed Annapolis Valley is seen and traversed until Annapolis Royal is
reached, at a distance of 130 miles from Halifax.

ANNAPOLIS ROYAL,

the ancient capital of Acadia, is the oldest European settlement in America,
north of the Gulf of Mexico. Hither came Champlain in 1604, four years
before he founded Quebec ; and soon after, the French colony was established
on this well chosen spot. It was then Port Royal, and it remained for the
English, a century later, to change the name to Annapolis, in honor of their
queen. Deeply interesting as its history is, it cannot be outlined here. It
is enough to say it has shared the fate of other Acadian strongholds and its
fort has become a ruin. To ascend the elevated ground and look down
upon the broad river and on the hills and vales around, one sees much that
*s beautiful to-day ; and can well realize how Poutrincourt was charmed with
the vision that greeted his eyes when he and his comrades set foot upon this
shore. The early settlement was a few miles further down the river than the
present town, but all we tread is historic ground. This fair river and goodly
land have been the scenes of many a fearful fray, and swift death has claimed
its victims on every hand. How all is peaceful, beautiful. The “ war drum
throbs no longer, and the battle flags are furled ; ” the fort is the play-ground
of the children, and the flocks of the farmers graze upon the earth-works
raised by man to resist his fellow-men.

The Annapolis Valley is famed for its fertility. It lies between the
North and South Mountain ranges; and thus sheltered, with a soil unusually
rich, it has well earned the name of the Garden of Nova Scotia. For mile
after mile the railway runs past orchards white with apple blossoms or laden
with tempting fruit. The air is fragrant, and the eye never wearies of the
fair farms and their fertile fields. One of the villages is called Paradise, and
the name does not seem misplaced. Farmers may here live, amid peace
and plenty, and toil little for a rich reward. It is a fine country—a
beauteous valley.

The whole coast, from Briar Island to Blomidon, a distance of 130
miles, is protected by the rocky barriers. The range rises at times to the
height of 600 feet, and effectually guards this part of Nova Scotia from the
cold north winds, and the chilling fogs which sometimes prevail in the Bay
of Fundy.

One can go from Annapolis direct to Boston, by steamer; or he can8

A View in Queen's Square Gardens, Charlottetown, P.K.I., reached by the Intercolonial Railway and its con:114

take the steamer across to St. John, a short and pleasant trip. On the way
he can stop at Digby, a fine watering-place, with the best of sea-bathing,,
plenty of fruit, and much natural beauty.

PRINCE EDWARD ISLAND.

It is three score years since William Cobbett told the people of England
of “ a rascally heap of sand, rock and swamp, called Prince Edward Island,
in the horrible Gulf of St. Lawrence.” Cobbett was a smart man, in many
ways, and the people of the Maritime Provinces are pi'oud of the fact that
he was once a common soldier at St. John, and selected as his wife a girl
whom he found at a wash-tub on Fort Howe. An old chest of his, much
out of repair, and which would not bring fifty cents at auction, on its own
merits, is still preserved in that city, and its owners would not trade it for a
new Saratoga trunk of four times its size. Yet Corbett was wrong in some
of his opinions, and he was very much astray in his estimate of the snug
little island that is now known as the Garden of the Gulf. His visit must have
been m'ade under very adverse circumstances, or else he was much in need
of a tablespoonful of anti-bilious mixture, in a little water, three times a day.

The only part of the indictment which has any semblance of truth, is
that which refers to the sand. There is no swamp worth mentioning; and,
as for rock, there is hardly enough of it on the whole island to build the
walls of a good sized cellar. But, it must be admitted, there is sand,—and
plenty of it. Even what looks like an occasional stone, is only hardened
sand, which crumbles at the touch. But there is also plenty of good soil,
which is something more than sand. The man who expects to find a large
sized counterpart of Sable Island, or Nantucket, will be disappointed.
Prince Edward Island is one of the most fair and fertile areas in the Dominion
of Canada.

It has a history, too, unique in the annals of the English colonies in the
new world. The Indians called it Epayguit—anchored on the waves—and
when Champlain came he gave it the title of L’ lie St. Jean. It kept this,
name, in the French or English form, for nearly two hundred years, but in
1800 it received its present designation, in honor of Edward, Duke of Kent,
father of Queen Victoria. It may be well for the press of the United
States to remember that the duke did not own the island, and that there is
no authority for the use of the possessive case in connection with it.

When the island was ceded to England, in 1764, the government sent a
surveyor to find out what kind of a place it was. If he had taken the view
that Cobbett took later, a great deal of trouble would have been saved, for
the settlement would have been made in due time, in a natural way. As it
was, he gave such a good account of the soil and climate that the paternal
government decided to colonize it with the least possible delay. The Earl of
Egmont had a proposition by which he was to cut up high jinks, and be115

monarch of all he surveyed. His happy thought was to establish a genuine
feudal system, in which he was to be Lord Paramount of the island. The
land was to be divided into baronies, held under him, every baron was to
hav.o his castle, with men-at-arms, lords of manors, and all the paraphernalia
of the middle ages, adapted to the climate of America in the eighteenth cen-
tury. The government did not accept this extraordinary proposition, but it
did what was nearly as bad, and which led to all sorts of wrangling and
trouble for the next hundred years. It divided the island into blocks, which
it apportioned among some of the gentlemen who had real or supposed claims
on the favor of .the crown. There were certain conditions annexed, as to
placing a certain number of settlers on each lot, but with an honorable excep-
tion, that was the end of the matter so far as the absentee landlords were
disposed to exert themselves. Thus it was that the land question was the
plague of the country until the island became a part of the Dominion, and
laws were passed for the appraisement and purchase of properties by tenants
who were tired of the old style of tenure.

From tip to tip of Prince Edward Island is about 130 miles, while the
width varies from two to more than thirty miles. In the two thousand and
odd square miles of country embraced in these varying widths the island has
more good land, in proportion to its size, than any part of the Maritime
Provinces. It grows amazingly large potatoes and surprisingly heavy oats,
while the farmers raise hundreds of the best of horses and thousands of the
fattest of sheep, every year of their lives. The eggs shipped away each
season are counted by the million. The people raise enough food to supply
all their own wants and have as much more to sell to outsiders. It is alto-
gether a flourishing country, and withal, fair to look upon, pleasant to dwell
in, and as cheap a place as one can find in a month’s journey. There was a
time when it was even more cheap for strangers than it is now ; and it is a
positive fact that men have gone there, had a good time, and, while paying
for everything, found the expense amounting to nothing. The difference in
the currency did it. A man could buy up sovereigns, “ short quarters,” etc.,
at their ordinary value in the other provinces, take them to the island, pass
them at their much higher local value, and make money by the operation.
Besides, every coin that was uncurrent anywhere else found a refuge here,
and, at times, almost any bit of metal which looked like a copper or a penny,
was current coin. The result was that the island had the most extraordinary
and heterogeneous currency to be found in America. This state of affairs
has improved of late years, but the island is still a place for a summer visit at
a very moderate expense.

The island is reached from the mainland, in summer, by taking the
steamer either at Point du. Chene, 1ST. B., or Pictou, N. S. It is a good plan
to go by one of these routes and return by the other. There is a winter
route from Cape Tormentine to Cape Traverse. A submarine tunnel, is116

projected between these two points. The two first named routes connect
directly Vith Summerside and Charlottetown.

'	Point du Chene early in the afternoon, the run of forty miles or

so across the Strait of Northumberland is made in daylight, and is a most
enjoyable trip. Often, on a bright summer day, the water is as calm as that
of a placid lake. To the south is seen the New Brunswick shore, gradually
growing fainter as the shore of the island comes in view. As distant Cape
TormentineNlwindles to a faint line, the bold outline of Cape Egmont be-
comes clearer and clearer to the north. As the island shore is approached,
the red of the earth and the bright green of the verdure show with most
picturesque effect as a background to the smooth stretch of water, in which
is mirrored the glory of the sunlight from the western sky. Under such
conditions the first impressions of Prince Edward Island must always be
such as will long be remembered, wherever one may go.

The approach from the sea to any part of the island is pleasing. As
Hunter Duvar says :

‘ ‘ A long low line of beech, with crest of trees,

With openings of rich verdue, emerald-hued,

-x- * And this fair land is Epaygooyat called,

An isle of golden grain and healthful clime,

With vast fish-teeming waters, ocean-walled,

The smallest Province of the Maritime.”

Summerside is the landing place, by this route, and is prettily situated,
with much to commend it to the tourist. A beautiful little island, seen to
the right on entering the harbor, has been deemed a good site for a summer
hotel, while just beyond it is the mouth of the Dunk Biver, the best of the
trout streams. The town overlooks the waters of Bedeque Bay, and the
distance overland to Malpeque Bay, on the north shore, is but a few miles,
for this is one of the several places where but a narrow slip of soil separates
the waters of the Strait from those of the Gulf of St. Lawrence. It would
not be difficult to separate the various peninsulas and make four islands
where nature has placed only one, and thus rival Gape Breton as a much cut
up country. There is no need for it. The people are not greedy, and one
island is quite enough for them and their posterity.

Here, at the sea-gate of the island, is the place to say that the country
being so highly cultivated, ground-game is, of course, scarcer than on the
mainland, but the rivers and brooks and bays teem with finny prey. No
license is required for sport and there is no restriction excepting the legal
Dominion close time.

From a hill in the rear of Summerside is a glorious prospect of the
country and of the waters to the north and south. Looking one way,
Bedeque Bay is seen, with all its attractive surroundings, while beyond it lies
Northumberland Strait, with the coast line of New Brunswick in the distance.:r->



t

4

A View in Queen’s Square Gardens, Charlottetown, P.E.I., reached by the Intercolonial Railway and its connections.118 ,

In the other direction is Malpeque Bay, and beyond it the Atlantic, while
the irregular line of shore and the islands that dot the water make a fitting
foreground for a truly entrancing picture.

Richmond Bay is a large and beautiful sheet of water, and it is in it
that some of the most famous oysters are found. Oysters have had no small
share in giving Prince Edward Island its fame, and they are not only of
excellent quality but are very abundant. Indeed, it was once the custom to
dig them and burn them in vast heaps, simply for the sake of the lime their
shells would produce. The prevalence of this practice was checked only when
a law was passed to prevent such wholesale destruction of this important
source of wealth.

Charlottetown is the capital and leading commercial city of the pro’vince.
Here are situated the General Offices of the Prince Edward Island Railway,
a part of the system of Canadian Government Railways. This road is a
narrow gauge, and was not built as an illustration of the fact that a straight
line is the shortest distance between two given points. It is, on the contrary, a
very crooked road, but it serves the useful purpose of giving easy access to
every part of the island. Nearly everybody who has a piece of land of any
considerable size has the railway close to his property. By this arrangement
the majority of the islanders are more than satisfied, and the traveller is
afforded every opportunity to see what the country is like.

The streets of Charlottetown are wide enough for all possible purposes,
and transverse sections of them, if in some parts of the Province of Quebec,
would be considered good sized farm fronts. The city has several fine
public buildings, and a market which is one of the chief sources of the
citizens’ pride. Close to the latter building and the post office is one of the
most tasteful public squares to be found in the Dominion.. It is not large,
but its flowers, fountains and other attractions are arranged so as to produce
a most pleasing effect. The electric light and the presence of a band of
music make it the great resort of the people during the summer evenings.

Beautiful drives among English-like scenery lie in every direction within
a radius of five miles around the capital, and from the* top of the provincial
building is seen a fine view of ^land and water, taking in the spacious harbor,
the three broad rivers between which Charlottetown is built, with ornamental
woods and fertile fields stretching to the horizon.

A public park for promenade and carnage-drive is being constructed and
a first-class trotting park in the immediate vicinity of the city affords frequent
opportunity of seeing the island flyers stretch their legs. It may be men-
tioned that, naturally in a country so famed for breeding horses, great in-
terest is taken in that noble animal and there are several parks and training
grounds throughout the^Provinee.

Charlottetown is finely situated for those in search of recreation either
on land or water. The harbor, with its various arms, and Hillsborough BayVictoria Row, opposite Queen’s Square Gardens, Charlottetown, P.E.I., reached by the Intercolonial Railway and its connections.120

with its inlets give good opportunities for boating and bathing, while there
are many places worth seeing within a trifling distance from the city. A
favorite resort is at Kepoth, across the harbor, from the high land of which
is a fine view, while no one is likely to be other than pleased after trips made
to Governor's and St. Peter's Islands, Lowther and Squaw Points, Cherry
Yalley, Pennarth, and East, West and North Pi vers. The rivers have good
trout, and fine sea-trout fishing is also to be had off the mouth of the harbor.
All kinds, of white fowl are found along the shores, and woodcock and plover
are abundant in their season.

Pustico Beach is one of the most popular of the summer resorts for
which the Island is noted, and is an easy drive from Charlottetown. Pine
bathing, shooting and fishing may be had, as indeed, may be said of nearly
all the places on the Island shores.

Tracadie, fourteen miles from Charlottetown, is an excellent place, both
for sportsmen and pleasure seekers. All kinds of sea-fowl, and excellent
trout fishing may be had. Five miles from this is Savage Harbor, and six"
miles further is St. Peter's—-both good for shooting and fishing.

In the journey over the Island, one thing that impresses the stranger
very favorably is the universal neatness which marks the, farms and the
houses. The farmers are all of a well to do class, and many of them are-
wealthy. In the fields are seen hundreds of acres rich with growing crops,,
while the abundant pastures furnish the food of the horses and sheep which
have, a "fame wherever the name of Prince Edward Island is known. The
scenery,, though not striking in comparison with that of some parts of the-
Intercolonial is always attractive and often beautiful. The absence of rocks,
and mountains is not felt in the pleasure derived from the contemplation of
more pastoral scenes, while the gently undulating surface of land permits-
most enjoyable journeys over well made, dry and level roads.

Speaking generally, the accommodation of most of the hotels is limited,
though some of the houses are very well kept. The stranger will never be
at a loss, however, as board can usually be obtained at the houses' of the
tidy English and Scotch farmers, who take a pride in supplying everything
that the country can furnish. The terms are very reasonable, and even at
the hotels, outside of the cities, a dollar bill will cover the cost of a large
amount of comfort. During the summer months several temporary places
are open where good society may be met.

In his pleasure drive throughout the country the excursionist should
always carry with him a light fishing rod, for at almost any little brook that
crosses the highway if he pulls up the horses and casts a fly the chances are '
that he will spring out trout on the grass. If his headquarters be at Sum-
merside, the famous Dunk river is within an hour's drive where good trout
abound. Not much farther off in another direction, he may try his luck in
the Big and Little Pierre Jacques, Percival and Enmore rivers. Proceeding-121

north to the extremity of the railway route, fish can be had in the creeks
and streams around Tignish, and within a radius of half a dozen miles from
Alberton, (a thriving little town), are several good fishing places, of which
Kildare may be mentioned. Returning and getting off the cars at Porthill,
tourists occasionally visit Lennox Island, a small principality belonging to the
Micmacs. If not in the close season, everybody is free to fish as many
oysters as he can pick up with a pair of tongs, in Richmond Ray. While at
Alberton, a drive of fourteen miles will bring him to Miminigash, where the
sportsman can easily induce the fishermen to take him out in their smart
little schooners after cod and mackerel. The western part of the island is the
place for gunners. Plover, brant, geese, ducks, seafowl cl all kinds anu
snipe are plentiful on the shores and low sandy islands.

Proceeding eastward from Charlottetown towards Souris, a station at
Morell, opens the largest and best fishing stream of the island, the Morell.
For reasons not unconnected with the tavern bill, it is preferable to camp
among the trees that fringe the river banks.

What is called the ubeauty spot” of the island is at and in the vicinity
of Souris. Here, all the pleasures of the seaside may be enjoyed to the full,
and excursions, limited in number only by the time at the visitor’s disposal,
may be made to all parts of the adjacent shore. The whole coast, in fact,
abounds with facilities for summer outing.

A favorite trouting place, where accommodation can be had by anglers,
is North Lake, twelve miles from Souris, near the east horn of the island,
the famous East Point. Although the size of the finny victims is not im-
mense enough for a fish story the basket is pretty sure to be heavy. From
Souris along the coast, to Georgetown, reached by vehicle, for the railway
does not run.that way, are a succession of sandy bays with streamlets run-
ning into, them where fish may be caught and seafowl shot. Heavy sea trout
are frequently taken at Bay Fortune, but to avoid disappointment, it may
be explained that, although salmon abound in the sea along coast the
streams are not deep enough nor cold enough for salmon fishing, George-
town is the winter port open latest in the year. Near Georgetown are the
Cardigan, Brandenell and Montague, all good streams. The beaches along
the whole coast are all that could be desired for bathing—firm footing and
no treacherous tides.

Taking the island as a whole, it is a pleasant land, with pure air ancl a
most invigorating climate. It should be included in the tour of every visitor
to the Provinces by the Sea.

THE MAGDALEN ISLAND GROUP.

Out in the Gulf of St. Lawrence, some fifty miles north of Prince Ed-
ward Island, lies a group of islands about which the average tourist knows very
little—I mean the Magdalen Islands. These islands, though removed, as it122

were, from the outside world, are yet within easy reach of the Intercolonial.
The comfortable mail steamer St. Olaf,\ with good accommodation for forty
or more cabin passengers, makes a weekly trip from Pictou to the Isles, and
for the traveller in search of something out of the ordinary in the way of
sight seeing, or, indeed, for anyone with a desire to see something different
from what he has already seen in his wanderings, a trip to the “ Kingdom of
Fish” would be the very thing.

Elsewhere in this book is described Pictou, with its views of land and
sea, its ships and its mines. Here you may take possession of your state-
room on the St. Olaf, and prepare yourself for an entrancing sail through
the waters of the Gulf, and it certainly will not be the fault of Captain Le-
Maistre if you do not enjoy it.

Mr. J. M. LeMoine, F.R.S.C., of Quebec, an authority on all things
pertaining to Canadian history and archaeology, says, speaking of these Is-
lands :

“Jacques Cartier, had, on July 22, 1534, sighted these solitary Isles,
then the undisputed kingdom of the walrus, the seal, and the lobster; they
were named Ramses, Bryon, and Alezay, Thirteen in number, they acquired
later on their present names : Amherst, Entry, Grindstone, Alright, Coffin,
Wolf, Headman, Grosse Isle, Bryon, Gannet Rock, Little Bird Rock, and
Gull Island. They assume the form of a horse shoe, and lie at the entrance
of the Gulf of the St. Lawrence; about forty-five miles in length, their
greatest width is thirteen miles, and they are connected by double sand bars,
forming lagoons. In 1663, the Company of Hew France granted these
Islands to Sieur Francois Doublet, a mariner of Honfleur, in France, and,
on February 1, 1664, Sieur Doublet associated himself with Francois Gon
de QuimjDe, and Claude de Laudemar in a fishing speculation. In 1719 we
find the French king ceding this territory to Lecompte de St. Pierre, at the
instance of the Duchess of Orleans. Later on, in 1757, four Acadian
families were located there: the Boudrault, Chiasson, Lapierre, and Cormier;
they had come from St. Peter’s Bay, in Prince Edward Island, and found
•employment under an enterprising Bostonian, a retired English officer of the
name of Gridley, who had opened an establishment to trade in walrus and
seal oil.”

The population, some 3,000 in number, make their living principally by
the products of the sea, although they ship great quantities of cranberries,
which grow on the marsh lands or. Barachois, and which find a ready market
in New Brunswick and Nova Scotia.

Amherst, named after Lord Amherst, which, with Grindstone and
Alright Islands, forms the beautiful sheet of water known as Pleasant Bay,
is the first stopping place of the steamer, and while there, the visitor has
.ample opportunity afforded him of driving through this and the neighbouring
islands, for as we have seen they are all connected by sand bars, which, at123

low tide, form a pleasant roadway, safe to the experienced driver. Amherst
Tillage consists of some sixty houses.

Near it is situated l’Etang du Nord, where there is a large lobster can-
ning factory.

Sealing is one of the principal occupations of the inhabitants, as many
as 20,000 being killed in one season. The skins are salted and sent to Eng-
land to be prepared, and the fat is rendered down in huge tanks by the
action of the sun, the oil being let out into barrels, ready for the market.

The walrus which was until quite recently to be found in large numbers
on the islands has now become a thing of the past, though its tusks and
bones are often exhumed.

The geology of the Islands is well worthy of study, furnishing many
rich and varied specimens, not only of stone, but of minerals. The Islands
are also intensely interesting to the botanist and ornithologist, being over*
run with a surprisingly large number of different kinds of wild plants and
flowers, to find specimens of which, elsewhere, it would be necessary to search
the whole of the North American Continent, and the same may be said of
bird life—both of these seeming to use these Islands as a resting place in
their migrations from the East.

On Gannet Rock or, as it is called, the Great Bird, a lighthouse was
built in 1872. The rock rises perpendicularly to a height of 140 feet, the
extent of land on its summit being about four acres. Here in the midst of
the raging waters, and almost alone, were it not for the immense number of
seal fowl that frequent the place, lives the keeper of the light, which can be
seen twenty-one miles out at sea.

In old times before such warnings were placed for mariners, these
Islands were the scene of many shipwrecks, and it is in allusion to these that
Tom Moore wrote the following beautiful lines when visiting Canada in 1804:

“ There lieth a wreck on the dismal shore
Of cold and pitiless Labrador,

Where, under the moon, upon mounts of frost
Full many a mariner’s bones are tossed.

'	Yon shadowy bark hath been to that wreck,

And the dim blue fire that lights her deck
Doth play on as pale and livid a crew
As ever yet drank the churchyard dew.

To Deadman’s Isle in the eye of the blast,

To Deadman’s Isle she speeds her fast;

By skeleton shapes her sails are furled
And the hand that steers is not of this world.”

It should be explained to our readers that the rather dismal names of
Coffin Island and Deadman Island have no relation to shipwrecks—Coffin
Island being named after Admiral Coffin, to whom the whole group was
granted in 1798, and Deadman Island being so called from its fancied
resemblance to a corpse laid out for burial.124

MONCTON TO ST. JOHN.

A journey of about three hours is required to take one from Moncton
to the commercial capital of New Brunswick. The greater portion of the
distance is through a well settled country, attractive in appearance, but
devoid of anything striking in the way of scenery.

The first station of note is Salisbury, where connection is made with
the Albert railway, which runs to the village of Albert, a distance of forty-
five miles. The first part of this distance is through a monotonous wilder-'
ness, but when Hillsboro is reached, with the Petitcodiac Biver flowing bj
the broad marshes, the beauties of the' country are better appreciated
The celebrated Albert mines were near this place, but they are now aban-
doned, and no other large deposit of the peculiar “ Albertite Coal?? has.
yet been found. The quarrying and manufacturing of plaster is, however,
still an important industry. As the road nears Hopewell, the country is.
a fine one, with its mountains in the distance and vast marshes reaching
to the shores of Shepody Bay. There are few places where a short time
can' be better enjoyed in a quiet way than in the vicinity of Albert. It
is a rich farming country, and fair to look upon. Large crops are raised
and some of the finest beef cattle to be found come from Hopewell and
Harvey.

Continuing on the main line, the next station reached is Petitcodiac, a
stirring village, from which a branch railway runs to Elgin and Havelock.
From Petitcodiac until Sussex is reached the various villages make a fine
appearance and give one an excellent impression of New Brunswick as a
farming country.

SUSSEX

Is one of the places which is rapidly increasing in size and importance,
and has the promise of as fair a future as any village in the Lower Pro-
vinces. It is situated in the beautiful Valley of the Kennebeccasis, and
has some of the most famous of the New Brunswick farms. Nature das.
made all this part of the country surpassingly fair to look upon; and it is
just as good as it looks. The earth' yields abundantly of all kinds of crops,
and the dairy products have*a most enviable fame. Besides this, the people
have push and enterprise, and are making rapid strides in all branches of
industry.

Some fair trout fishing is to be found in this part of the country. To
the east and south are Walton, Grassy, Theobald, Bear, White Pine, Echo,
Chisholm and other lakes, all within eighteen miles of the village. Eight
pound trout have been caught in Chisholm Lake, though fish of that size
are the exception. In Theobald Lake one man has taken ninety trout,
averaging a pound each, in two days.

The visitor who is interested in mining should visit the manganese
mines, ten miles from the village ; and if he should like to see how theSt. John, N.B., Harbor and Water Front, on the Intercolonial Railway.126

best of table salt is obtained, his curiosity may be satisfied by going to
the Salt Springs, four miles away. As for views, the best to be had is from
Blanch’s Hill, which overlooks the village and a large portion of the sur-
rounding country.

Geologists tell us that these hills and bold heights seen in the vicinity
of Sussex are the effects of a terrific current which once flowed through the
valley, when all the country was submerged by a mighty flood. It is thought
that this was once part of the valley of the St. John River, but when that
“ once ■’ was is something as uncertain as the authorship of Ossian’s poems.
It was" a long while ago, at any rate.

From Sussex to St. John, a distance of 44 miles, the country along
the line is well settled, and abounds in beautiful villages. Hampton, the
shire-town of Kings County, is in great repute as a summer resort for the
people of St. John, a number of whom have fine private residences here.
From this point the St. Martins and Upham Railway runs across the
country to the flourishing village of St. Martins, on the Bay Shore. Hamp-
ton is a very pleasant place, and, like Sussex, is making rapid advances
year by year, Rothesay, nine miles from the city, has some handsome
-villas, the residences of St. John business men and others, who find all
the pleasures of rural life within less than a half-an-hour’s distance of
their offices and counting rooms. The ornamental trees and carefully ar-
ranged grounds have a very pleasing effect. The Kennebeccasis River
flows close by the track for a distance of several miles, the hills rising on
the distant shore in picturesque beauty. As Riverside is reached, one of
the finest race-courses on the continent is to. be seen. Here is the scene of some
famous aquatic contests by such oarsmen as Hanlan, Ross, and others of
lesser note. It was here on a beautiful autumn morning, years ago, that
the renowned Paris and Tyne crews struggled for victory. It was nearly
opposite yonder wharf that a man of the English four was seen by the
excited thousands to fall from his seat, and as the Paris crew shot ahead
what a cheer echoed from that vast crowd of human beings ! Yet, how-
quiet, was all a few minutes later when from the shore beside the wharf
the Champion of England, James Renforth, was carried up the hill to die !
It was a strange, sad scene—the most memorable in the annals of this noted
spot.

ST. JOHN.

St. John has a history which extends back to the days when the land
was Acadia and the banner of France waved from the forts of the harbor
and rivers The story of La Tour and his heroic wife is one of the most
interesting in the annals of the colonies. Such a tale—a romance deserves
a better fate than to be presented in a mutilated form; the space at com-
mand in these pages would fail to do the narrative justice.iloriial Railway Passenger Station, St. John, N.B.128

Apart from its Acadian annals, the history of St. John has little to
interest the stranger. The city has no extensive fortifications, no memor-
able battle fields, nothing ancient or quaint to fascinate the antiquarian. It
is a modern city. Even the best part of its old buildings have been swept
away by fire, and new q,nd substantial edifices line the great majority of the
streets. St. John is to be seen for what it is—not for what it has been.

The city has had two great epochs in its history. The first of these
was the landing of the Loyalists, on the 18th of May, 1783, and the
second was ‘‘The Great Fire,'5 on the 20th of June, 1877. In the one in-
stance, some patient and persevering settlers began to build a city on a
rock| in the other the result of nearly a century of labor was blotted out
of existence in less than a day. The fire swept over two hundred acres
of the business district, destroyed more than 1,600 houses, occupying
nine miles of street, and caused a loss which has been estimated at
figures all the way from twenty to thirty million dollars. The destruc-
tion was swift and complete. It is not strange that many of the people
felt pretty well discouraged; and that for several years the phrase “ since
the Fire ” (always with a capital “ F ”) was the phrase proper to be used
on all occasions when life seemed scarce worth living. It is true the water-
ing cart was not seen less frequently in dusty weather than in days of
old, nor were the winters less , favorable for lumbering than they had
been, but a good many people appeared to think that the palmy days had
vanished, never to return again.

They were mistaken, and it took but a few years for them to learn
that St. John was again on Ihe high road to prosperity. Very little is
heard of the fire now-a-days. The newspapers refer to it occasionally, as
a matter of duty, and guide books have to mention it as a matter of his-
tory. The stranger, however, may now visit the stores, public institu-
tions, places of amusements and churches, with a reasonable certainty that
he will not hear all about the big blaze and its effects, unless his own in-
quisitive nature provokes the citizen to be luridly reminiscent. On all
ordinary occasions, the Great Fire is a back number.

There is good reason for this. St. John is holding its own amono-
the cities of Canada, and its growth is a healthy one. It is a terminus of
the Intercolonial, Canadian Pacific, and Shore Line Railways,' and its
varied industries are giving it a wealth and importance of which it scarcely
dreamed in former years. By the addition of Portland, it has taken a
long leap as regards population, and, thanks to the many buildings of mod-
ern style, it is a good looking city as well. Fine specimens of architecture
are seen in the Intercolonial depot, the Custom House, Post Office, churches
and numerous other buildings, public and private. "Electric street cars fur-
nish rapid transit. The wide, straight streets' cross each other at right
angles, and the location of the city is admirable in every respect.129

Strangers, of whom increasing numbers visit St. John every year, have
a choice of several attractive drives. One of these is on the Marsh road,
visiting the beautiful rural cemetery on the way. This city of tombs is
situated most admirably for its purpose and none can fail to be struck
with the quiet beauty which is everywhere seen throughout its shady
walks. Another and very attractive drive is over the Suspension Bridge.
The River St. John takes its rise in the State of Maine and flows over 450
miles until it is emptied in the harbor on the Bay of Fundy. It, with its
tributaries, drains two million acres in Quebec, six millions in Maine,
and nine millions in New Brunswick. Yet this great body of water is all
emptied into the sea through a rocky chasm a little over 500 feet wide.
Here a fall is formed. It is a peculiar fall. At high tide the sea has a
descent of fifteen feet into the river, and at low tide the river has a like
fall into the sea. It is only at half-tide, or slack water, that this paid of
the river may be navigated in safety. At other times a wild tumult of
the waters meets the eye. Across this chasm is stretched the Suspension
Bridge, seventy feet above the/highest tide, and with a span of 640 feet.
This structure was projected and built by the energy of one man, the late
William K. Reynolds. Few besides the projector had any faith in the
undertaking, and he, therefore, assumed the whole financial and other
responsibility, not a dollar being paid by the shareholders until the
.bridge was opened to the public. In 1875 the bridge was purchased
from the shareholders by the Provincial Government and is now a free
highway.

A ^ short distance above the Suspension Bridge is the splendid Canti-
lever Bridge which gives tlt^ Intercolonial connection with the Canadian
Pacific Railway, and the vast systems of the Dominion and the United
States, Until 1885 travellers to and from Western New Brunswick and
the New England States were obliged to cross the harbor by ferry and
be driven across the city in order to make connection. In October of
that year the bridge was opened for traffic,. and the former gap of two
miles between the two railways was forever closed. The bridge is a
beautiful and most substantial structure. High above the rushing waters
its graceful outlines, seen from a distance, convey no idea of its wonderful
solidity and strength. Solid and strong it is, however. All the resources
of modern engineering have been utilized in its construction, and its
foundations are upon the solid rock. The main span is 447 feet in length.
The bridge is not only a boon as regards the convenience of the travel-
ling public, but has a most important bearing in a commercial sense. It
gives direct communication between the Pacific Ocean, the United States
and the Lower Provinces, and in the facilities which it, affords for through
shipment is giving a new stimulus to many important industries.

Near the bridges, on the west side of the river, is the Provincial

9130

Lunatic Asylum ; a little further, after passing Fairville, is that famous
drive, the Manawagonish (Maogeh.es) Road, a splendid highway, in full
view of the Bay of Fundy, with the line of the Nova Scotia coast visible
forty miles away. This is one of the most pleasant drives to be had
around St. John. Returning, Carleton, which lies around the harbor, may
be visited, and one may see the ruins of Fort La Tour. As a matter of
fact, there is not much to be seen, save a. small piece of grassy slope, a
part of somebody’s back yard, which is said to be the face of a bastion.
Houses are built on the historic ground, and they are not by any means
imposing in their character; slabs and sawdust are numerous, and the
air is at times pervaded 'with a decidedly plain odor of fish. Such is Fort
La Tour to-day ; such is the placb where lived and died that famous Acadian
heroine, the wife of Charles La Tour.

In the vicinity of Carleton, or West End, as it is called in municipal
parlance, is the Bay Shore, which has excellent facilities for sea bathing.
So far, however, the absence of bath houses for the public has prevented
many from availing themselves of its privileges. The deep water terminus
of the Canadian Pacific railway in St. John is also on the West Side, where
a grain elevator has just been constructed.

Driving through the North End, formerly the city of Portland, the
stranger may ascend Fort Howe, have a view of the harbor and city, and
then proceed to the bank of the broad and beautiful Kennebeceasis. Or
one may go by the way of the Marsh Bridge to Loch Lomond, a famous
place for pleasure parties, where fishing, sailing, etc., may be enjoyed to
perfection. Should a shorter and still pleasant drive be desired, one may
ascend Mount Pleasant, have another magrffficent view of the city and
vicinity, and proceed to Lily Lake. In fact, it were tedious to enumerate
all the pleasant places which may be visited by those having a team at their
disposal for a few hours of a summer day.

The harbor of St. John is one of its great features. Deep and capa-
cious, its swift currents and high tide render it free from ice during the
most severe seasons. Ships of any size can lie safely at its wharves or
anchor in the stream, well sheltered from the storms which rage without.
At the entrance is Partridge Island, a light, signal and quarantine sta-
tion ; with this once properly fortified, and guns placed on the opposite
shore of the mainland, no hostile fleet could hope to gain the harbor with-
out a desperate struggle. The harbor proper bounds the city on the west
and south; to the east is Courtenay, Bay, which becomes a plain of mud
when the tide is out. Some fine vessels have been built on this bay, and
it has -excellent weir fisheries. The fisheries of this and other parts of
the harbor are prosecuted with good success and give employment to
a large number of men. It is from these fishermen that such oarsmen as
the Paris crew, Ross, Brayley and others have risen to be famous.Head of King Street, St. John, X.B., on the Intercolonial Railway.St. John is essentially a maritime city. Its wharves are always in
demand for shipping, and vast quantities of lumber, etc., are annually
exported to other countries. It is indeed the fourth among, the shipping
ports of the world, and St. John ships are found in every part of the seas
of both hemispheres. Before the introduction of steam, its clipper ships,
such as the swift “ Marco Polo,” had a fame second to none, and voyages
were made of which the tales are proudly told even unto this day.

St. John has good hotel accommodation, and the leading houses set
tables of which no traveller can complain. What has been and still is
wanted is a large hotel, built and equipped in the most approved modern
style.

The people of St. John have a great deal of off-hand frankness and
cordiality, in welcoming strangers to their midst. They like to see visit-
ors. Years ago, when there was no railway to Bangor, and but two trips
a week were made by the steamer to Boston, the arrival and departure of
the “ Yankee Boat ” were events of great local interest. About noon on
the days the boat was expected, people began to enquire at the express
office to learn the hour of her arrival at Eastport. So soon as the expected
telegram came, the agent, in order to have time to attend to his business,
put out a large sign, announcing the hour the steamer would reach St.
John. Men read the words, glanced at their watches, and regulated their
business so as to be on hand at the proper time. Ladies hurried their
shopping so as not to be late on the great occasion. Everyone looked
pleased. Shortly before the hour named, large numbers would gather
round Reed’s Point, and secure the most eligible places for the show. At
length the long, loud whistle would be heard upon the harbor, and at the
sound coaches, express wagons and private teams all came tearing down
town, while on the sidewalks men, women and children hastened with
joyful feet to the scene of action. The ceremony over, the people quietly
dispersed, and strangers who had seen the crowd on the wharf, and saw
what they supposed to be other crowds walking the streets, were most
favorably.. impressed with the life so apparent among the people. The
times have changed in this respect since the increase of steamboat and
railway lines, and the advent of baseball leagues.

The ascent of the river to Fredericton is a very enjoyable trip.
Steamers also cross the Bay to Digby and Annapolis; and three regular
trips a week are made by the International Line to Eastport, Portland
and Boston. The Canadian Pacific Railway runs daily trains to Frederic,
ton and Vanceboro’, connecting at the latter place with New England
railways for Bangor, Portland, Boston and all parts of the United States.
The main line, by way of Montreal, connects the shores of the Atlantic
with those of the Pacific. The Shore Line Railway, which now connects
St, J ohn with the border town of St. Stephen, is to be continued throughMaine, thus giving an additional medium of communication with the
cities to the south. Along this line is some good fishing, while excellent
duck and goose shooting may be had near Lepreau, an hour’s journey or so
from St. John.

. It will thus be seen that St. John is easily reached from all parts of the
continent. It is one of the gates that open into the fair land of the Mari-
time provinces, and with excellent hotels, a bracing climate and a genial
people, it is a gate within which the stranger will delight to tarry.

ROD AND RIFLE.

Along the Lower St. Lawrence, in the Metapedia Valley, and down
the north shore of New Brunswick, as far as Miramichi, salmon are found
in all the important rivers. In Quebec, the regulations allow of fly fish-
ing in lakes and non-navigable rivers, from the 1st of February to the 15th
of August. Non-residents are required to procure a license from the com-
missioner. The season for speckled trout is from May 1st to September
30th, while that for large grey trout begins December 1st, and ends Octo-
ber 15 th.

In New Brunswick the close season for salmon is from the 15th of
August to the 1st of February.

In Nova Scotia, the best salmon rivers are on the Atlantic, or south
coast, and have been referred to in the preceding pages. Salmon cannot
be fished for between the 15th. of August and the 1st of February. None
of the rivers of Nova Scotia are leased.

Trout are abundant in all the lakes, rivers and estuaries along the
line of railway. The close seasons are: In Quebec, as above mentioned; in
New Brunswick, from September 15th to May 1st; in Nova Scotia, from
October 1st to April 1st; in Prince Edward Island, from October 1st to
December 1st. The sea trout found in the estuaries are fine fish, and though
abundant in very many places, they are found in their perfection in the Tabus-
intac and Escuminac. They are greedy biters, and it is said, will take almost
any kind of fly. The arms of the sea and numerous estuaries on tlie Atlantic
coast of Nova Scotia are particularly good places for these fish, which find
their feeding grounds among the sand flats and bars and among the beds of
seaweed in shoal water. June and July are the best months to seek them,
though they may be found at all seasons. They are a very gamey fish, hand-
some in appearance, and excellent eating.

The brook trout, though very like the sea trout, is admitted to be a
different fish. It is found in its excellence in lakes which have an outlet
in the sea, and is a very beautiful creature. The best fishing begins about
the middle of May; but good sport is had all through the season, except
perhaps during the hottest part of the summer, when the fish are a little134

dull. So soon as a few cool nights lower the temperature of the water,
the fish are again alert, and continue so until the ice forms. In seeking
for the best flavored trout avoid muddy and swampy lakes, and choose those
with good bottom and clear water.

As to flies, it is difficult to give much advice. Some have been named
from time to time in the preceding pages, but no attempt has been made to
give full information on this point. “ Doctors differ ” in regard to the best
flies for the best places, and a fly which some claim to be the best in use for
certain rivers, is pronounced1 worthless by other equally good authorities.
The sportsman should always carry a. good assortment, and he will seldom
fail to find out what is wanted in a particular water in which he fishes.
Captain Hardy, a good authority, recommends a particular fly for the Hepisi-
guit—“a dark fly, body of black mohair, ribbed with fine gold thread, black
hackle, very dark mallard wing, a narrow tip of orange silk, and a very
small feather from the crest of a golden pheasant for a tail.” The variety of
flies is large; and instances are not rare where a fly hastily extemporized
from the first materials to be had has proved to be most killing in its effects.
All fishermen know that there is a great deal in “ luck.”

The Lower Provinces afford the best opportunities for moose and cari-
bou hunting. The country lying back of the rivers on the north-east shore
of Hew Brunswick, and the forests of Cumberland, Colchester, Halifax and
Guysboro, in Nova Scotia, will give all the sport desired.

In Nova Scotia the close season for moose and caribou is from the 15th
of September to the 31st of January. Ho one person is allowed to take
more than two moose and four caribou in any one year or season. The flesh
is to be carried out of the woods within ten . days after killing, and game
killed during the latter part of January shall be carried out during the first
five days of February. The penalty for the violation of these provisions is
from $30 to $50, and a fine of $25 is imposed for hunting with dogs. The
close season for partridge is between the 1st of January and the '15th of
September, and that of woodcock, snipe, and teal, between the 1st of March
and the 20th of August. Woodcock must not be killed before sunrise or
after sunset. Blue-winged duck must not be taken before the first days of
April and August. The annual licenses for non-residents expire on the first
of August. They cost $30 each, but in the case of officers in Her Majesty’s,
service the charge is only $5 each.

In Hew Brunswick the close season for moose, caribou and deer, is
from the 15th of January to the 31st of August. The taking of cow moose,,
at any time, is forbidden, under penalty of a fine from $200 to $500. It is
not lawful for any person to kill more than one moose, two caribou, or three
deer, in any one year. The close season for partridge is from the 1st of De-
cember to the 20th of September; for woodcock and snipe to the 1st of
September. Hon-residents are . required to take out a license, the cost of
which is $20. The fee for officers of Her Majesty’s service is $5.135

The close season for moose and caribou in Quebec is from the 1st of
February to the 1st of September, and that for deer from the 1st of January
to the 1st of October. For woodcock, snipe and partridge, it is from the 1st
of February to the 1st of September, and for wild duck from the 1st of May
to the 1st of September. Non-residents are required to take out a hunting
license, the cost of which is $20, and the penalty for the non-compliance is
double the amount of the fee.

The foregoing are some of the features of the Game Laws of the three
provinces. There are other provisions, in regard to trapping, using nets for
wild fowl, hunting with artificial lights, etc., but as no sportsman will resort
to such practices, these need not be quoted.Material Resources

THE SOURCES OF

WERLsTH

IH ERSTEHH CRHflDfl

Agriculture, Minerals, pisl?eries,

porests

and pianufactures.

fl Country Well Worthy of the Attention of the
Capitalist Seeking Profitable
Investment.INTRODUCTION.

f HE foregoing pages give an account of the advantages which Eastern Canada
1	has to offer to the Tourist in quest of a pleasant retreat during the

^^111111^^ hot weather, to the sportsman in search of game and fish, and to the
traveller seeking instruction in curious matters of history, geography
and folk lore. But it must not be supposed that the Maritime Provinces of Can-
ada are chiefly remarkable or useful for the resources they "offer in these directions.
It sometimes happens that the most interesting and salubrious regions have also
the greatest resources in the way of the natural wealth of the soil, the mine, the
forest, and the sea, and that within short distances of good fishing, good shooting,
and in the midst of charming or grand scenery may be found flourishing industries.
It is so in the neighborhood and along the line of the Intercolonial Railway. That
Railway system, as everyone knows, was not originally intended as a route for the
summer tourist. It was devised to bring into connection with the outside world
the vast resources of the four Atlantic provinces, as well as to bring together the
different sections of the Dominion.Agricultural

©NE does not see many fine farms during the first few hours from Quebec to-
wards the so-called Lower Provinces, but this is not because the country
generally is barren, but because the railway does not pass through the best
farming districts. ^ There is good farming country, some of it well farmed, along
the St. Lawrence down through Bonaventure and along the Baie des Chaleurs.
The people have until lately paid too much attention to other things, but the acreage
under cultivation is yearly increasing, and what is more to the purpose the cultiva-
tion is more careful and systematic.

It is shown in the previous part of this work that the country is pierced by
rivers, and that these streams afford fine fishing. But the presence of these rivers
also means large tracts of the very finest interval lands, whose soil is deep and rich.
The farmer who settles on these bottom lands and pays attention to his business
is sure to become an independent citizen. There are in northern New Brunswick
and eastern Quebec thousands of square miles of virgin soil as rich as a western
prairie, and after the first timber is cleared away as easy to handle. The presence
of timber is sometimes regarded as a hindrance, but it is more likely to be a bless-
ing, for the Eastern farmer never fears a coal famine. His country is not subject
to the destructive floods, and still more troublesome droughts of the treeless plains.
He has beside him the raw materials for his buildings and his fences, and lives
amid the agreeable variety of scenery which is more than half the charm of rural
life.

The shores of the tidal rivers which are reached at Moncton are a greater
source of wealth than the alluvial lands on the fresh water streams. The soil of
these marshes is practically inexhaustible. If it should show signs of failure the
dykes which keep out the salt water may be cut, and the tide soon covers the
land with a coat of top dressing, which makes it better than ever. The dykes140

mostly on the Memramcook, Petitcodiac and Tantramar, the Amherst and Nappan
and Minudie marshes, and those near Truro, and those on the other side of the
Basin of Minas in Kings and Hants Counties are simply inexhaustible. They are
almost entirely in hay, and as they require no fertilizing they afford the means to
keep the neighboring upland farms in a high state of fertility. Much hay is ex-
ported for use in cities and towns and other parts of the Province, and large
quantities are shipped. The owner of a block of marsh has a property whose value
is as certain, and will yield its interest with almost as little trouble as a sheet of
Government bonds.

The streams in Nova Scotia are still more numerous, though they are smaller
than those of Hew Brunswick and Quebec. As a consequence, while there is much
hill country and much rocky land, especially on the Atlantic coast, there are
innumerable stretches of intervale, meadow and marsh, while sloping towards the
rivers are areas of fine upland, almost always with timber in the immediate vicin-
ity. Eastern Nova Scotia is likely to be the paradise of the dairyman and the
sheep farmer, as the western part of the province, between the mountains, is a
paradise for fruit growers.

And speaking of fruit ; while the Cornwallis and Annapolis valleys and the
shores of the Basin of Minas have become famous for apples, plums, pears, peaches
and other orchard products, it is claimed that other parts of the province, notably
Antigonish, are almost equally deserving of fame, though they have not as yet been
given the chance to win it. Quebec Province has immortalized the Fameuse apple,
which nowhere else is so luscious as in its home by the St. Lawrence. Carleton
county in New Brunswick has one of the finest plum orchards, if not The finest one
in the Dominion. But Kings, Hants and Annapolis are par excellence the country
of the Gravenstein, which is by universal acceptance the greatest apple in the
world.

Apple growing in some parts of Nova Scotia, as well as in other provinces,
gives magnificent financial results, as will be seen from the following extract from
the annual report of the President of the Fruit Growers’ Association of Nova Scotia
for 1892. Having explained that the three counties in the province contain 400
square miles of the best orchard land in the world, of which area not five per cent, has
been set in orchards, this gentleman asserted that the available ground could be
made to yield, with ordinary business methods, an income of from twenty to thirty
millions of dollars a year. To prove the profitable results of apple culture alone»
President Bigelow gives the actual returns from a number of orchards during ten
years, offering to prove the correctness of his statement.141

w

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£

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M

‘p	O	,°	.	P  O	d	'd	r6
P-i	T3	p  P-I	A	CD	o	©	©
p  c6  rP  P  P  CS	-p  o  ©  rHb  03  d	p  cS  rO  P  P  cS	P  c8  P  P  cS	"bb  ©  P  no  p  ?S	Id  £  ■■d  p  oS	J  p  o	Is  .t>  p  3  o
		S		ro	rd  o	©	H©
	3	SQ		p  o	p  O	£	£

Present  Y alue of  Orchard.	$8000  1500  3000  5000  9000  3000  5500  4000  6600  4800	o  0  01  m
Nett pro-  fit last 10 years.	$5630  3500  3000  8000  12675  2650 '  8000  4560  6810  2870	lO  CO  o  CN  lO  m
Value of other crops be- side apples.	$840  100  1000  1500  4200  850  4000  1200  3300  700	0  01  o  ip  rH  m
Total cost of cultiva- tion, 10 years.	$960  400  800  2500  4QpO  1100  1500  715  s 2610  1200	1 hO  00  r—  lO  tH  m
Nett amt. of Sales of Apples.	$5750  3600  2800  9000  12875  2800  6000  4075  6120  3370	0  01  CO  CO ’ lO  m
No. of bar. of Apples -last 10 years.	3200  1800  1500  4200  5500  -  1500  4000  2300  3498  1685	26183
First  cost  of  land.	$400  250.  1000  200  1800  400  1000  470  1000  4200	0  01  GO  Jt-  m
When  planted	o	ot>	o	j>»	rH _po	i—i	t—i	o  hr	co - co	r-	io	r- - $o	71	71	r-  oocqaqoooooooooooooo  rH.rHr-IrHrHrPrHrHTHTH	
No. of Trees.	350  100  200  240  900 -  160  440  200  500  300	3390
No.  of  Ac-  res.	8  5  18  -4 |  1 11  4  11  '8	77
A  03  ◄  W  o  • Q3  *o  , O  Q3  H  fc  £  O	A. D. DeWolf.......  Lewis Johnson	  Charles Fitch	  J. S. Dodd	  R.	Harris		  J. W. Bigelow	  Leander Eaton	  S.	Sheffield	  R. W. Starr			  Fred. Johnson		

i142 ,

“As a result of these facts,” said Mr. Bigelow, the President, “we have a
profit of $52,065 from 77 acres of orchard in ten years, from an investment^ of
$7,820, and permanent value remaining in orchard worth $42,400. Any man of
small means or moderate income can produce the same results, while to the pro-
moter and investor it proves that with a capital of say one million dollars, one hun-
dred thousand acres of new land can be acquired capable of giving an income of
$5,200,000 per year for one hundred years after the first ten years, and one mil-
lion dollars of additional outlay.”

Here is another statement covering a shorter period:

Cost of Land, Trees, and all expenses on an Apple Orchard first Jive years.

Owner of Orchard.	No. of Acres.	No. of Trees.	When  Plant’d	[  [Cost of j land.	Cost of Trees and all other expen- j ses, 5 years	Value of all other crops.	!  Presents value of Or- chard.
Johnson Bros., Grand Pre. . . .	26	1086	1887	$1560	$1250	$1100	$4000
E. W. Borden, M.P., Canning.	25	1000	1888	75	700	None.	2200
Ita'ph Eaton, Cornwallis		50	2000	1888	500	1000	300	10000
J. W. Bigelow, Wolfville		35	1400	1888	700	900	None.	5000
	136*	5486		$2835	$3850	$1400	$21200

The rapid development of fruit growing for export may be shown by the offi-
cial returns of the sales from Nova Scotia^ During the three years from 1875 to
1877, inclusive, 14,000 bushels of green fruit were shipped from Nova Scotia.
Passing over an interval of three years we find that in 1880, 1881 and 1882 no less
than 125,000 barrels were shipped. The exports for the three fiscal years ending
in the spring of 1892 show the still more remarkable aggregate of 298,000 barrels.
The shipment of the crop of 1892 is not included in the return. Nearly all this
fruit goes to England, and includes the best variety of apples grown on the con-
tinent. It should be remembered that the fruit exporting interest is really in its
infancy, and is capable of an enblmous expansion, and that as yet it is nearly all car-
ried on by two or three counties in one of the Eastern Provinces.

Nothing has yet been said about Prince Edward Island, which has frequently *
been described as the “ Garden of Canada ” or the “ Garden of the Gulf.” This gar-
den plot, which has an area of only 2,000 square miles, is inhabited by a population
almost exclusively agricultural. The soil is less broken than elsewhere in the east,
and as a rule it is more easily worked. No where will one find a more comfortable
class of farmers, and it would be difficult to discover an equal area in America
whose aggregate agricultural product is of greater value. Taking the average of
farms, large and small, it will be found that the province over, there, is an average
of two or three horses and five or six cows on each place.

As will be shown later, the Prince Edward Island fishing industry is impor-
tant, but the farming population numbers three persons for every two engagedjin143

all other occupations. This is a much larger proportion than is found elsewhere
in the Dominion generally or in other countries. Of the 70,000 or so of people
who live on farms about two-thirds represent families, probably about 10,000 in
number, who occupy over forty acres of land, and they may be said to depend on
the farm for a living. The ten or twelve thousand -farmers turn out from three to
four million bushels of oats, and double the quantity of potatoes annually. Though
Prince Edward Island oats and oatmeal, potatoes and meats, go to all parts of Canada
—which local sales are not reported in the official returns—the shipment of these
articles to foreign parts, as shown by the trade tables, is very large. Of the crop
of 1891, no less than 1,152,000 bushels of oats were sent abroad, nearly all to
England.

About the same quantity of potatoes was shipped the previous year, and the
sales were not considered large, though these roots are mainly raised for feed, and
large quantities are used in the starch factories. Pork, beef and other meats are
packed for shipment to other provinces, while live animals and fresh meat are sent
to the mainland or exported in large quantities, considering the size of the place.
This is not surprising when it is considered that more than half of the total surface
of the province is under cultivation. As much as 3,000,000 bushels of potatoes and
2,000,000 bushels of oats are sometimes grown in the county of Queens, P. E. I.,.
alone, though the population outside the city of Charlottetown is not above 35,000,
of whom perhaps 25,000 are farmers, having say 5,000 farms. Iso county east of
Lake Superior, and probably none in the United States, can make this showing.

Passing over again to the mainland we are brought by the Intercolonial through
the large farming district of-Central New Brunswick and into easy access of the
St. John River valley, which includes great stretches of interval, flanked by fine
upland in the lower basin, while farther up, in Carleton and Victoria, there are wide
level stretches of upland, the superior of which for hay and crops is hard to be
found, even in the west.

. The immigrant in search of land suitable for mixed farming can be satisfied in
any of the Eastern Provinces if he exercises care in selection. Uncleared land
may be had from Government by settlers paying the cost of surveys and performing
a few days work in improving the neighboring highways. This is in New Bruns-
wick, but the terms are equally easy in Quebec. There is little ungranted farming
land in Nova Scotia, and none in Prince Edward Island. But improved land with
buildings may always be obtained in any of the Eastern Provinces at prices which
would astonish a person accustomed to English values. Good farms producing 100
tons of hay and containing two or three hundred acres of land with excellent build-
ings may be purchased at from $3,000 to $6,000. Such an estate well managed would
enable the owner to live in a considerable degree of affluence and to surround
himself with all the comforts and many of bhe luxuries of life. For $1,500 to
7$2,000 a man may purchase a farm on which with industry he can bring up a
family with great comfort. Such farms are always provided with buildings, are
under cultivation and capable’of feeding from fifteen to thirty head of cattle.

Mention has been made of the rapid development of fruit growing for export.
Something might be said in this place about the still more rapid growth of another
industry allied to farming. This is the co-operative dairy industry. Ten years
ago Ihere were many cheese factories in the eastern bownships7 so called, of Quebec,
but there were few or none on the Lower St. Lawrence, None were reported in144

Prince Edward Island. In 1881 there were thirteen in Nova Scotia and four in
New Brunswick. In 1891 there were a few factories in Kamouraska and neigh-
boring counties, ten in New Brunswick, fourteen in Nova Scotia and four in
Prince Edward Island. During the season of 1892 the New Brunswick factories
increased to sixteen,those of Nova Scotia remained,and a movement was set on foot
in Prince Edward Island. At the beginning of the season of 1893 a number of
factories sprang mp in the Lower St. Lawrence. Not less than twenty-three new
ones were started in New Brunswick, making thirty-nine in all in that Province-
In Nova Scotia twenty-four were in operation, and ten new factories were put in
operation in Prince Edward Island. In an area which had twenty-five factories in
1891 there were seventy-five in 1893. Each of these establishments circulates be-
tween $2,000 and $3,000 annually among the farmers. Carleton county,New Bruns-
wick, has taken the lead in cheese making hitherto. 'One man there, Mr. Tilley,
owns and operates half a dozen or more factories. In Antigonish, Nova Scotia,
Mr. L. C. Archibald introduced co-operative cheese making a few years ago, and
has himself established and now operates eight factories in different parts of the
county. Prof. Pobertson, dairy commissioner for the Dominion, assisted by a
staff of forty experts, has been instrumental in establishing cheese factories and
creameries in much new ground. The Provincial Government of New Brunswick
affords encouragement for the establishment of these factories, besides giving the
services of its Commissioners and several experts. The Federal Government affords
some assistance towards the introduction of co-operative dairying in new localities.

Other industries allied to farming are establishments for the preparation of
condensed milk, whereof there are three in Nova Scotia, and factories for canning
fruit and vegetables which are numerous in all the provinces, starch making,
which is carried on in Prince Edward Island, New Brunswick and Quebec ; meat
curing which is an important business in Prince Edward Island, and is carried on
extensively in several localities in Quebec, at St. John, and other parts of New
Brunswick and Nova Scotia.

MINERAL WEALTH.

It would require an encyclopaedia to set forth in anything like a detailed
statement the developed and undeveloped mineral wealth of Eastern Canada.
There is scarcely a mineral substance known which is not found there, and the
most useful products of the mine and quarry are found in sufficient quantities to*
justify operation. The eye of the' foreign capitalist has long been upon the gold,
coal and iron deposits of the extreme East, as well as upon the phosphates, asbestos
and other mineral deposits of Western Quebec. At present more attention is paid
to the exploration of the mineral wealth of the Atlantic Provinces than ever there
was before. Mining investments are proverbially speculative, but many a snug
fortune has been laid away by persons who were fortunate enough to acquire an
interest in the wealth that lies beneath the surface in these regions.

GOLD.

We take first the"substance which exercises the greatest fascination for the
human race. Gold is found in every province in the Dominion, but is chiefly145

worked in Nova Scotia and British Columbia. It is claimed, however, that the
precious metal exists in working quantities in various parts of New Brunswick and
Quebec.

As the gold fields of Nova Scotia occupy a district extending over some 300
miles in length and from ten to forty in width, covering anywhere from 3,000 to

7.000	square miles, it is apparent that there is yet fine opportunity for the pro-
spector and the capitalist.

The report of 1892 by Edwin Gilpin, A.M., F.G.S., Inspector of Mines for the
province of Nova Scotia, mentions fifteen districts containing thirty mines from
which returns were received for that year. These districts were scattered all the
way from Yarmouth, in the extreme south-west of the province, to the Strait of
Canso.

Nor do the gold deposits stop at the Strait. The streams of Cape Breton
Island roll down a quantity of golden sand; though as yet the main sources of
supply have not been found, and alluvial mining has been carried on only in a
•desultory manner.

The first gold mine mentioned in the report of Inspector Gilpin is Tangier.
At Tangier thirty-five years ago the earliest gold miner struck it rich in Nova
Scotia. He was an alluvial miner and went into the business accidentally. This
man lay down on his stomach to take a drink out of a brook. Whether he got a
good drink or not is not known, but near his lips he found a gold pebble. * This
prize he carried away, and when he showed it about, the belief that gold existed in
the province became a certainty. Within a few years gold was found in half a
dozen places, in Lunenburg, Hants, Halifax and Guysboro counties. Early in the
sixties gold mining became a recognized industry in the province. Since then

560.000	ounces of gold have been returned for royalty at the mines office, the total
value being over $10,000,000. The present annual yield is worth some $400,000.

It is not too much to say that gold mining in Nova Scotia has brought in at
good results for the labor and capital expended as it has in California or Australia.
A great deal of work is thrown away here as elsewhere on worthless or exhausted
mines, and of course much is expended on development of properties not yet
remunerative. Yet in 1892 the result of 120,761 days’ labor in and about the gold
mines of Nova Scotia was the production of 21,080 ounces, which at $18.00 per
ounce represents $3.14 for each day’s work. As the actual value of smelted gold is
$19.00, the average return would be $3.30 per day. This seems to show that if all
the mines belonged to one man he could pay good wages and cover all the expenses
of opening up new properties, and make good profits. The official report also
shows almost constant increase in the returns made to labor. With the exception
of 1886, in which year some good strikes were made, the average earnings were
greater in 1892 than in any previous year. The following statistics of gold mining
-during 30 years will be found instructive :

10146

Year.

1862

1863

1864

1865

1866

1867

1868

1869

1870

1871

1872
1.873

1874

1875

1876

1877

1878

1879

1880
1881
1882

1883

1884

1885

1886

1887

1888

1889

1890

1891

1892

Total Ounces of Gold Extracted.	Yield per ton of  2000 lbs.			Total  Days’  Labor.	Average earnings per man per year - at 300 working days, $18 per oz.
Oz.	Oz.	Dwts.	Grs.		A Year*.
7275	1	2	11	156,000	$249
14001		16	11	273,264	276
20022		18	16	252,720	426
25454	1	0	20	212,966	645
25204		15	o	211,796	642
27314		17	9	218,894	672
20541		12	17	241,462	459
17868		10	4	210,938	455
19866		12	21	173,680	615
19227		12	11	162,922	636
13094		15	7	112,476	627
11852		13	9	93,570	684
9140		13	5	77,246	636
11208		15	4	91,698	620
12038		15	13	111,304	582
16882		19	10	123,565	738
12577		13	23	110,422	615
13801		17	8	'	92,002	702
13234		18	20	103,826	654
10756		12	20	126,308	456
14107		12	18	106,884	711
15446		10	21	97,733	862
16059		12	18	118,087	720'
22202	i: ^	15	4	157,421	759
23362		16	2	128,880	975.
21211		19	11	173,448	660
22407		15	21	163,772	738
26155		17	22	211,548	666
. 24358		11	9	160,164	719
23391		13	7	149,381	' 840
21080		12	10	120,761	942	,

The grade of the ore and the size of the lode in the Nova Scotia deposits vary
very much, but nature has to some extent regulated these conditions by giving a
greater amount of her wealth to the smaller lodes. The conditions for working also
vary greatly, but taken generally are unquestionably favorable to the miner. The
gold is mainly in a free state, though in some ores large returns are obtainable
from the sulphurets. For free milling no better machinery is made in the world
than in Canada. The class of labor is good, and owing lo the cheap cost of living"
is less expensive than in other gold countries. Fuel, either coal or wood, is very
cheap. Hardwood can be delivered at any mine for from $1.25 to $2.00 per cord.
Distances from railway or water terminus to any of the gold districts are not great,,147

and with good roads the means of transportation is favorable, and the cost com-
paratively light. Taking all things into consideration, there is no better or more
satisfactory investment for capital than the Nova Scotia gold fields.

The official figures quoted above show that gold mining was never so prosper-
ous as now. The causes of this improvement are not far to seek. The cost of
mining has been greatly reduced by the introduction of the best appliances and the
most economic management. The expense of qrushing is much less than formerly,
and the separation of the gold from the ore is effected with less loss.

It has come to be recognized that the future of Nova Scotia mining lies
largely if not mainly in what are known as the low grade ores. “ In many of the
districts/’ says Inspector Gilpin, “ are met wide belts of slate and quartzite, inter-
sected by quartz veins, both the veins and the rocks being more or less auriferous.
Experience in the Western States has shown that ore such as this, mined in large
quantities, and crushed and amalgamated in large mills of 75 to 100 stamps, pays
well even when worth not more than $4.00 a ton. Trials on a working scale have
been made of such ores as these, in this province, and the field appears even more
promising here than in any other gold-mining country.” Going more into par-
ticulars the inspector says : “ At Sherbrooke and Mount Uniacke large lots of this
ore have been quarried and crushed in small mills, and the results have shown that
such operations, if conducted on a large scale, with approved appliances, would pay
well. The value of these crushings has averaged from 3 to 7 dwts. to the ton, and
it can be safely asserted that nowhere can labor and the usual supplies of mining

camps be procured more cheaply than in Nova Scotia.”

On the other hand the last Nova Scotia report contains an account of a
remarkably favorable operation of a mine of high grade ore yielding $450 worth of
gold to the ton of quartz. This mine is at Cariboo, and was operated in 1892 by
G. W. Stuart for the owners, the Truro Gold Mining Company. The property
had been neglected, and the machinery and works were out of order when Mr.
Stuart took charge in October 1892. He struggled through a month without extra
expense, and finding the prospects good removed the old machinery and put in
new, after which he resumed operations. In all 52 tons of quartz were extracted.
Hollowing is his statement of account:

I herewith hand you all the vouchers, receipts, etc., of expendi-
tures and bank returns for gold, all of which I trust you will find
correct.

Net mint returns after"deducting mint and bank charges :

1892,	Nov. 7th, Gold Bar, 272.50 ounces.................. $5075.05

1893,	Jan. 7th, “	“	739.85	“	............... 13907.01

1022.35 ounces.	$18982.06.

Total cost of gold production..................$1935.50

Stock in hand viz. :

Wood, Tools, Oils, Lumber, etc...................697.82

Expense of new buildings, machinery and con-
struction......................................   2125.00

--------- 4758.32-

$14223.74148

Add wood, etc., on hand as above.............. $697.82

New buildings, etc.,	“	..........,.2125.00	2822.82

Profit since Oct. 1st, 1892................... $17046.56

All of which is respectfully submitted.

Yours faithfully,

Gr. W. Stuart,

Manager Truro Gold Mining Co.

Cariboo, January 10th, 1893.

In view of the fact that gold bearing quartz is found scattered over a great
portion of the immense field mentioned, that new discoveries are being made every
few days, and that the cost of production is steadily reduced, there is reason to
believe that gold mining in Nova Scotia is yet in its infancy, and that the day is
coming when this province will be one of the most important gold producing
countries in the world. Already many respectable fortunes have been made in
Nova Scotia gold mines. It is impossible here to mention many instances, or to
enumerate the districts which have been most successfully worked. But it may
be mentioned that one property at Salmon River has turned out $250,000 at great
profit to the owners. In this case the ore was of a low grade, yielding only $6.00
to the ton. The Sherbrooke fields have produced gold to the, value of $2,340,000.
Several investors have secured handsome fortunes out of Montague and Waverly
diggings within a few miles of Halifax. Oldham mine is one of the oldest, largest
;and steadiest producers in the province. Extraordinary yields have been contin-
uously obtained from Molega in Queens county. Another important district
is Stormont, where work has been carried on spasmodically for many years
with considerable profit to the owners. Within the last three years the Anti-
gonish Mining Co. purchased a property there and have found this mine one of the
best producers in the province, and exceedingly profitable to the shareholders.
Near by is the property of the Country Harbor Gold Mining Company of St. John,
New Brunswick. This company has done a great deal of development work, and
has now got squarely to work at actual and profitable mining. The work of both
companies in this neighborhood has developed a belt from eight to sixteen feet
wide of which some three-fourths is crushing material, giving an average value
calculated to be $10 or $12 per ton. , The cost of mining is put down at $3.50 per
ton. Farther to the eastward Isaac’s Harbor is the centre of a district which
has been worked in several places with success. Many other districts throughout
the extensive gold ground of Nova Scotia might be discussed, but the above are
described as specimens of the actual and profitable gold working in the province.
Taken on the whole gold mining in Nova Scotia has been a most profitable
employment for labor and capital, and is to-day under capable and careful manage-
ment as satisfactpry an investment as is obtainable.

But Nova Scotia does not monopolize the gold' properties of Eastern Canada.
Across the New Brunswick border in Memramcook there are properties now in
course of development which are represented *as of great value. They are of the
low grade series, the gold being contained in ..rock and among gravel. By reason149

of the great quantity of material and fche ease with which it may be obtained, the
precious metal can be got out for remarkably low cost. If the assays made are
sustained by the regular products these mines will show great profits. As an indi-
cation of the activity of gold mining enterprises in Westmorland county, the fact
may be mentioned that one number of the Royal Gazette issued in June 1892, con-
tained twenty-five applications for license to search, from ten different applicants,
and covering 1329 areas.

Among the Canadian exhibits to the World’s Fair at Chicago is one collection
of seven pieces of quartz, weighing twenty-one pounds. These contain 40J ozs. of
gold, the finest, experts have stated, ever placed on view anywhere. A glance at
the specimens reveals pure, rich masses of the precious nietal jutting from the
baser material in abundance. The ore yields $75,000 per ton. The seven speci-
mens were sent by the Nova Scotia Government, $800 bonds having been entered
into for the safe return of the exhibit after it has served its purpose in the West.

COAL.

From Newcastle on the north shore of New Brunswick to Sydney at the
extreme east of Nova Scotia, a matter of 425 miles or so, the Intercolonial Rail-
way is never far from a coal field. South-east of the Miramichi, where the railway
crosses, and about fifty miles away lie the Grand Lake coal fields of New
Brunswick. As one proceeds south along the line, these fields come nearer
and then again recede. At Moncton he may be forty miles from Grand Lake.
Then he begins to draw near to the Cumberland coal fields. At Maccan the road
passes in sight of coal fields on each side of the line, and within twelve miles of the
branch leading to the Canada Coal and Railway Company’s extensive works at
the Joggins. Springhill Junction, five miles from the Springhill coal fields, is
passed twelve miles farther on. Small and partially, developed areas follow at in-
tervals between Springhill and Truro. Proceeding eastward from Truro forty
miles brings one to Stellarton, which is the centre of the extensive coal fields of
Pictou county. There are coal deposits in Antigonish. When the Straits are
crossed the Cape Breton railway leads into the neighborhood of one of the greatest
coal fields in the world, while if a turn were made to the left, after passing the
Strait, • a few miles would bring the traveller to the coast where there are at least
125 square miles of coal.	‘	.

The greater part of the Nova Scotia coal fields are on the coast or on the banks
of navigable streams. Those of New Brunswick lie on the bank of Grand Lake
which opens into the St. John river. Coal has been mined more or less from
these last mentioned banks since the country was settled. Coal mining is also a
venerable business in Nova Scotia. When an ancient monopoly was broken in
1858, the output was 226,000 tons. For the ten years ending 1860 the
sales aggregate 2,339,319 tons, showing a slight annual gain. The output con-
tinued to increase slowly until in 1865 it was 635,586 tons. There was no further
gain until 1872, when 785,914 tons were mined, and the business remained
stationary or progressed backward until 1879, when the sales were 688,528 tons.
From the latter date until 1891 there was a steady and rapid increase as will be
seen by the following table representing the annual sales :—150

year.	tons.

1879	.................. 688,628

1880	.................. 954,659

1881	.................1,035,015

1882	.................1,250,179

1883	.................1,297,523

1884	.................1,261,650

1885	.................1,254,510

YEAR.	TONS.

1886	.................1,373,666

1887	.................1,519,684

1888	.................1,576,692

1889..................1,755,107

1890	.................1,786,111

1891	.................1,849,945

This represents a gain of 168 per cent, in twelve years. Owing to labor
strikes, and other local causes, the output for 1892 was a little less than that of
1891, but. the year was characterized by greater activity in the development of
mines and the organization of mining companies. The production of coal for 1892
including the quantity required for miners’ and colliery consumption reached
1,942,780 tons. In Cumberland County the Joggins Mine which produced 63,505
tons, and the Springhill mine with 392,724 tons are the principal mines in opera-
tion. Pictou is chiefly represented by the Acadia which raised 250,847 tons, and the
Intercolonial 196,903 tons. Cape Breton County has seven mines representing over
100,000 tons each, viz.: Caledonia, 120,230; Glace Bay, 105,617 ; Gowrie, 154,845;
International, 111,856; Reserve, 154,790; Victoria, 121,638; Sidney, 189,994.
Nearly all the Cape Breton mines in operation were purchased in 1893 by a syndi-
cate, known as the Dominion Coal Company, composed of capitalists from New
York, Boston, Montreal and Nova Scotia. The new Company has undertaken to
pay a royalty on an output from all its mines of not less than that of 1892. Two
hundred square miles of coal fields, in the region occupied by the Dominion Coal
Company, contain, according to a reliable system of computation, such as has been
adopted by royal commissions in England, 2,000,000,000 tons of coal available for
mining. This will allow 200 years’ operations at ten times the present output.
The new Company expects to purchase barges, and in various ways to so decrease
the cost of production and transport that Cape Breton coal will find its way into
many markets from which it is now excluded.

Two other Companies largely composed of United States capitalists have been
formed to operate the mines at Broad Cove on the Gulf of St. Lawrence. One of
these Companies estimates its coal deposit at 200,000,000 tons. A third Company
is organized to develop and operate valuable areas at Port Hood, where it is said
there are from 100,000,000 to 200,000,000 tons of coal.

The Pictou mines have been steadily operated as far back as the present gen-
eration can remember. The area of the district is not so large as some of those in
Cape Breton, but the beds are remarkably thick, and the coal is of excellent
quality. A recent important discovery has greatly increased the value and im-
proved the prospects of the collieries at Westville.

The town of Westville owes its origin to, and is sustained by these coal mines.
They are also responsible for the town of Stellarton. A larger and finer mining
town is that of Springhill, which in ten years, from 1881 to 1891, increased from
900 to 4,813 inhabitants. This place was in the seventies occupied only by two or
three farmers. Springhill coal goes into consumption as far West as Ottawa and
Kingston. There are a dozen or more small mines about Maccan, and one large
one at the Joggins. The capacity and production of the last mentioned mine has
been trebled in the last two or three years.

The following figures from the census returns of 1891 show the progress of two151



or three towns which depend largely upon the coal and iron mines and allied
industries :—

Population Population
in 1881. in 1891.

Springhill....

Westville.....

North Sydney
Sydney Mines

Sydney.......

Stellarton
Parrsboro
New Glasgow.

900

2,202

1,520

2,340

1,480

2,297

1,206

2,595

4,813

3,152

2,513

2,442

2,426.

2,410

1,909

3,777

The only coal fields operated in New Brunswick are those in the neighborhood
'of Grand Lake. They are accessible from the river St. John, which, with the lake,
is navigable for the class of vessels and barges used elsewhere for forwarding coal.
The Central Railway, a branch of the Intercolonial, also penetrates this region.
The area usually assigned to the Grand Lake coal fields is 600 square miles, and the
quantity of coal has been estimated at 500,000,000 tons. Small mines have been
operated, but as yet very little has been done in the way of systematic mining in
this region. The seam which has hitherto been worked is very near the surface and
is about two feet in thickness. The coal is of a superior quality, being specially
suited for coking purposes. Of late the attention of manufacturers has been
nailed to the quality of the product, and it is now in use in several St. John indus-
tries which require steam. During 1892 and the early part of 1893 much interest
was taken by capitalists in these coal fields, and companies were formed which it is
believed will do more than has yet been done in the way of developing these valu-
able areas.

IRON.

Though less attention has been paid to iron mining than to coal mining in
Nova Scotia, the iron ores will probably prove to be of equal value with the coal
deposits. Iron in some of its many forms is met with in nearly every county in
Nova Scor-ia, in several districts in New Brunswick and in the eastern townships
and Pontiac in Quebec. The largest developed properties are those of the London-
derry Company at the place of the same name in Nova Scotia, those of the New
Glasgow Iron, Coal and Railway Company, and the Charcoal Iron Company whose
mines are at Bridgeville and elsewhere -on the East River, Pictou County, and
those of the Jorbrook Iron Company, near Nictaux, in Annapolis County.

From these three mines 75,000 tons of ore was extracted in 1892, this being
by far the largest output in any one year in the history of Canada. The production
of 1891 was 57,311 tons, that of 1890 49,206 tons, showing an increase of fifty per
•cent, in two years. During the ten years previous to 1890 the output was from
40,000 to 50,000 tons annually. The Londonderry mines produce both Limonite
•and Spathic ores, which are smelted together.

There also is smelted the ore brought from Jorbrook, amounting in 1892 to
27,114 tons.

A good grade of pig iron is made at Londonderry, and there also are estab-
lished large works for the manufacture of bar iron and steel. The large and
flourishing town of Acadia Mines has been built up by this business. It is situated152

about three miles from the Intercolonial at Londonderry station, which is the
junction of a branch railway to the mines. The population in 1891 was 2,665.

The larger part of the labor is employed about the smelting and manufacturing
•establishments. In the actual work of mining alone the Londonderry Company in
1892 employed sixty-eight skilled and fifty-nine unskilled workmen, exclusive of
eighteen employed in quarrying limestone for use in the smelting works. The
quantity of iron ore mined at Londonderry was 37,213 tons. The limestone
quarried for flux was 12,742 tons. Coke to the extent of 13,538 tons was made and.
used in the works. The company has two blast furnaces, and furnace A of the
Londonderry works produced in 1892, 24,756 tons of pig iron.

The number of operatives on the pay roll of men employed in and about
the mine, and about the iron and steel works at Londonderry was 660 in 1888, and
the quantity of iron produced in 1892 was larger by fifty per cent, than in the above
year. The wages paid to employes during six months when the number was less
than 500 was over $100,000.

The return for the last half of the year 1887, which is given in a budget speech,
shows the outlay of the works for certain purposes for the period to have been

Wages paid to employes..............................$100,700

% Paid for Fuel......................................... 52,000

£‘ Lime.......................................... 8,007

“ Sundries....................................    8,000

Railway Freight.....................................  66,944

Total............................. $235,651

The business done then was about two thirds that of 1892.

The Pictou iron deposits now operated are convenient to coal and limestone.
The New Glasgow Iron, Coal and Railway Company has its mines on a branch of
the Intercolonial a few miles from the junction. This company, which is now fairly
under way with its smelting operations, has its furnace at Ferrona, the name
of a new town where the branch joins the main line, about six miles from
New Glasgow. The blast furnace was blown in during 1891, and at the end of
December was making iron at the rate of 20,000 tons a year. The vice-president
ojf the company reported in the spring that he expected to put out 25,000 tons in
1893, which is more than the total production of Canada five years ago. Ferrona
is already becoming a busy place, as the works there give employment to several
hundred men. The company’s mines at Bridgeville and elsewhere produced in 1892
26,096 tons of ore. The company quarried 5,749 tons of limestone. The new
Pictou iron towns have come into existence too late for the census of 1891 to do
them justice. The capacity of the furnace is 100 tons of pig iron per day, which,
on a basis of 50 per cent., will require 60,000 tons of ore yearly.

On the branch line, some seven miles from Eureka Junction, is the furnace of the
Charcoal Iron Company, which was started late in the autumn of 1892. The company
mined 3,000 tons of ore in that year. In the spring of 1893 both the mine and the
smelting furnace were in full and successful operation. Both of the last mentioned
companies have abundance of ore. Wood for charcoal abounds in the neighborhood.
The capacity of the charcoal iron furnace is about 8,000 tons of iron a year.153

A large part of the product of the Pictou iron mines will be used in the steel
and forge works in Trenton, two miles from New Glasgow. This is one of the large
and successful industries in Canada. The following description from a local paper
will give an idea of the business done here :

“ Let a stranger go to Trenton and watch the Steel Works office door as the six
o’clock whistle sounds, and he will be more than surprised at the swarm of men
who, black with the sweat of honest toil, come bustling through these gates of
industry. Yes, right here in our midst are mighty steel works, around whose gates
centre so many hopes, and on whose management the prosperity and even bread
and butter of hundreds depend, and few people give them more than a passing
thought. Yet in this busy hive of industry 430 men toil from day to day arid 430
families depend for their daily bread.

These mighty works, founded by the energy and pluck of Graham Fraser, have,
gone on from small beginnings to their present position, covering Some acres in
extent. A new building is being erected for a new and improved rolling mill, as
the capacity of the present mill has proved too small. The new mill will be able
to turn out the work just double as fast as at present. A new engine and a new
mill outfit all around will be added. Very heavy new machinery for the manufac-
ture of fish-plate is also being added. It will be of sufficient capacity and strength
to punch six holes in a fish-plate, cold.”

There is abundance of iron ore in Cape Breton, including the red hematite of
East Bay and Whycocomah. Bed hematite and limonite is found in various parts
of Colchester and Halifax counties.

The interest in iron mining and smelting in Nova Scotia has recently become
very strong. The editor of a mining department of a reliable journal, ‘ writing
under date of May, 1892, expressed the opinion that “ there is every reason to be-
lieve some millions of dollars will be spent in purchasing and developing our iron
deposits during the year.” In New Brunswick bog iron ore is widely distributed.
The only deposits which have been worked at all extensively are situated near
Woodstock in Carleton county. The ore here is red hematite, which has been
smelted in considerable quantities. - Some of the product has been used for armor
plate in the British navy, but the operations were discontinued because, as it was ex-
plained, means could not then be found by tfie operator to remedy the defect
caused by the presence of phosphoros.

Some work has been done in the development of the iron deposits on the Mill
Stream river in Gloucester county. In the Province of Quebec iron smelting has
been an industry since 1737. The first workings were in the region of Three
Rivers. Between St Mourice and the River Batiscan the ore covers a tract ex-
ceeding six square miles in area and reaches a thickness of four to ten inches.
This ore produces an iron of superior quality. At the International Exhibition of
1867 the proprietors of the Radnor forges exhibited railway car wheels manufac-
tured from this iron, which, after running 150,000 miles, showed no signs of de-
terioration. The present Radnor and Drummondville charcoal furnaces have been
in operation some years and are supplied mainly by bog ore. The ore used at
Radnor is in a large measure obtained by dredging the bottom of lake a la Tortue.
In 1890 the Radnor works passed into the hands of the Canada Iron Fur-
nace Company, remaining under the superintendence of George McDougall of154

Three Havers. The working capital and the capacity of the works has been
increased.

OTHER MINERAL SUBSTANCES.

Copper has been extensively mined near Sherbrooke in the County of Meganticr
in Quebec. It is also found in New Brunswick and Nova Scotia^ but has not been
extensively mined there. The operators are, however, by no means discouraged,
and work at Coxheath, Nova Scotia, is still continued. The export of Copper ore
from Quebec has been very large. The value of the product of the mines at
Capleton, Bolton and Sherbrooke reaches nearly half a million dollars annually.

Though the Sudbury district in Western Ontario is the region whose deposits
of nickel have attracted the greatest attention, it is known that this valuable sub-
.stance exists farther east. Within three miles of St. Stephen, in Charlotte County,
New Brunswick, are large deposits containing two to three per cent, of nickle.

The silver produced in Eastern Canada is mined in the vicinity of Capleton in
the Eastern Townships of Quebec, a field which is a perfect mineralogical museum,
in the variety and extent of its wealth of the mine. The silver production of the
region for the year last returned was $180,122. Antimony has been mined at Raw-
don, Nova Scotia, Prince William, New Brunswick, and South Ham, Quebec.

Asbestos, which has become one of the most important mineral substances in
Canada, is produced in Quebec to a far greater extent than in any other country in
the world, The Canadian production has almost entirely displaced that of Italy,
even in the Italian market. Exports of the Province of Quebec for two or three
years have passed the million dollar mark. The substance is found in various parts
of the Province but is chiefly worked in the County of Megantic. This is perhaps
not properly in the constituency of the Intercolonial Railway but is not far from
the Quebec terminus.

Manganese is found in all the lower Provinces but has not been worked ex-
tensively except in Nova Scotia and New Brunswick. The exports have reached
as high a figure as $36,000, the greater part of the production being from Mark-
ham ville, near Sussex. There are partially developed properties at Jordan Moun-
tain, St. Martins, Hillsboro and other places in New Brunswick. Profitable min-
ing has been carried on at Tenycape, Nova Scotia, and a quantity of ore has been
taken from deposits at Loch Lomond, Cape Breton.

The petroleum produced in Canada comes from Lambton, County, Ontario, but
the district of Gaspe on the Lower Sfc. Lawrence is known to be rich in oil. As
yet> operations have not passed the exploratory stage ; but the prospects are so
good that considerable investments have been made in oil properties.

Mineral waters are produced in Quebec, both for medicinal and table purposes.
The St. Leon waters are perhaps the best known, but the produce of many other
springs are used at home and abroad. In New Brunswick the Havelock Spring
Mineral Water has long been known, but it is only within the last few years that
It has been put upon the market in competition with other table waters. The
Wilmot Springs in Nova Scotia produce a Mineral Water which is used extensively.

GYPSUM.

Crude Gypsum is found in great quantities on the bank of the Petitcodiac in
Albert county, New Brunswick, on the Avon near Windsor, at Cheverie, on the155

Basin of Minas at St. Ann’s, at Baddeck, and elsewhere in Cape Breton, on the
"Tobique, a tributary of the St. John, and in many other places. The chief quarries
in operation are those of the Wentworth Gypsum Company, at Wentworth, Hants
-county, Nova Scotia, and those of the Albert Manufacturing Company, at Hillsboro,
New Brunswick.

The latter corporation has somewhat extensive calcimining works, where plaster
of Paris is manufactured for the Canadian market, but the greater part of the
plaster rock excavated is shipped crude to the United States markets.

The Albert Manufacturing Company’s quarries are situated about three and a
half miles from the Petitcodiac Biver, at Hillsboro, and some twelve miles from the
Intercolonial railway station at Moncton, which latter town is on the bank of the
same river. The deposits comprise an excellent quality of gypsum, including some
pure white alabaster. The company has its own branch railways. It ships to the
United States from 20,000 to 25,000 tons of rock plaster annually. The yearly out-
put of its mills, which produce plaster of Paris, is 60,000 barrels, of which 40,000
barrels are sent over the Intercolonial railway to various points in Canada. The
balance is exported by water to foreign countries. The exports of crude gypsum
from Nova Scotia and New Brunswick have increased largely during the last twenty
years.

In 1874 the shipments amounted to less than 70,000 tons. In 1879 the
quantity had increased to 105,000 tons, of which 95,623 were shipped from Nova
Scotia and 8,791 from New Brunswick. The exports of 1892 were nearly double
this quantity, being 162,284 tons from Nova Scotia and some 35,000 tons from New
Brunswick. The value would be about $200,000 at the port of shipment. The
Nova Scotia products included 11,900 tons shipped by the Baddeck, Cape Breton,
Company from their quarries at St. Ann’s and Point Bevis, 124,531 tons from
Wentworth, 15,891 from Cheverie and 7,165 from Walton. This industry is
•capable of great development.

The company which operates the Wentworth quarries has a fleet of large
schooners for the plaster carrying trade, and is greatly extending the sphere of its
-operations. The Baddeck Company has only fairly begun to develop its property.
Not far from the Albert quarries, a new and valuable property has been acquired
and a company is preparing to carry on an extensive business. Railway connection
has been established with Plaster Bock on the Tobique.

LIME.

Limestone exists in many parts of the Eastern as well as of the Wbstern prov-
inces. The fields which have been operated to the best advantage are those of New
Brunswick at the mouth of the St. John, near the city of that name.

From a score or so of lime burning establishments a few years ago the exports
of lime in barrels were valued at over $130,000. The industry may be carried on
under most favorable conditions for the United States market as well as for home
production. The rock is quarried along the high banks of the river and carried
generally by gravitation to the kilns 'by the water side. The manufactured lime is
loaded direct on to vessels and delivered at the port of destination.

Wood for the kilns can be had oii the spot as cheap as, or cheaper than any-
where else in the world. The New Brunswick exports of lime doubled between 1887156

and 1890, and under fiscal conditions favorable for exports to the United States,,
would reach hundreds of thousands of dollars in a few years, while the finished pro-
duct could be delivered in United States cities at prices much lower than now
prevail. In 1890 Nova ^Scotia exported $278 worth of lime, and two years later
shipped $17,137 worth. The lime quarries of Nova Scotia produced in 1892,
18,000 tons of lime stone. A large and yearly increasing quantity is required in
that province for the use of smelting works.

BUILDING STONE.

The stone quarried for building in Quebec Province is chiefly lime stone, and
is mainly the product of the western part of the province. The value in the year
last returned was $456,703. But freestone or sandstone is found and quarried to
a considerable extent in various parts of Quebec, and in much larger quantities in
the Maritime Provinces. About two miles from Newcastle the Intercolonial skirts
the back of the historical French Fort Cove, where are situated those quarries
which produce the beautiful greenish olive sandstone now so popular in Eastern
cities. It is claimed that this is the most extensive deposit in Eastern Canada.
The demand for it is steadily increasing as it becomes known.

Those who have remarked the magnificent edifice at Ottawa, known as the
Langevin Block, admittedly one of the finest public buildings on the continent, can
form an idea of the character of the ‘‘Miramichi Stone” as it is called. Other
notable public structures built from this material are the City Hall, Hamilton, the
post offices at Fraserville, Quebec ; Newcastle and Chatham in New Brunswick.
Among the private residences built of Miramichi stone are those of Mr. Andrew
Allan, Mr. James Boss and Mr. Duncan McIntyre in Montreal.

Between the Memramcook and the Petitcodiac rivers, not far from Dorchester
station, are a number of important stone quarries. Two of these, one on each side of
the ridge which runs between the streams mentioned, have been extensively worked,
and their products are well known in New England cities as well as in Canada.

Some, in fact, of the best buildings in New York, Boston and Philadelphia are
composed of freestone from Westmoreland county. The Bank of Montreal build-
ing in St. John and Senator Boyd’s house are fair specimens of the product of one
of those quarries, The proposed new municipal buildings at Toronto are, by the
terms of the contract, to be built of Wood Point stone, that being thought the best
available. On the west bank of the Petitcodiac and along the Cumberland Bay
coast in Albert county are also large deposits of light colored freestone, much of
which may be found in the larger and more elegant buildings of the Atlantic cities
of the United States. There is at Germantown in Albert county a valuable deposit
of reddish sandstone which makes handsome and substantial building material.
At Amherst and along the south shore of Northumberland Bay in the counties of
Cumberland, Colchester and Pictou there are large deposits of sandstone. Those
of Amherst and vicinity are of a red color. Many handsome buildings have been
constructed of this stone. The Amherst stone is of a cheerful red color, that of
New Brunswick is mostly brown or olive green. The freestones^ of Wallace and
farther east are grey. Nova Scotia freestone is perhaps not so well-known in
foreign countries as that of New Brunswick, but both are well described by Pro-
fessor Howe when he says, ‘ ‘ there is no country probably better furnished with.the varieties of stone suited to the purposes of the civil engineer, the builder and
the architect.” Mr. Hugh Fletcher, of the geological survey, says that some of
the Pictou quarries show a face of forty feet of good grey freestone.

GRANITE.

A kind of stone far too valuable for general building purposes is found in con-
siderable quantities in Nova Scotia, and to an unlimited extent in New Brunswick.
The red granite quarries of St. George, Charlotte County, produce a material of a
somewhat deeper color and more capable of enduring the vicissitudes of a change-
able climate than that of Aberdeen, which it closely resembles. The grey granite
found in the vicinity of Spoon Island, on the St. John, has been recently pro-
nounced by the monument makers the best grey granite in the world. The output
of these quarries is solely used for monumental work. The proprietors of the
Spoon Island quarries are filling contracts for Toronto, Ottawa, Montreal and all
the large cities where the material comes into direct competition with the product
of Quincy, Mass., and Barrie, Vermont. It appears to be recognized that New
Brunswick is able to do more than hold its own against this or any other competi-
tion. The St. George red granite is shipped in blocks across the border or cut and
polished for the home market. The Garfield monument in Cleveland is of this
material. This red granite is exported in the rough to a considerable extent but
much of it is manufactured and turned out to order in the extensive granite works
at St. George. There are also granite works at St. John which use both the red
granite of Charlotte County, and the grey stone of Spoon Island.

GRINDSTONE.

The quarries at Stonehaven, Gloucester County, those of Lower Cove, Cum-
berland County, and some.of the Pictou quarries produce grindstone. The last
years, for which full returns are at hand, show the value of the products of these
quarries to be between f40,000 and $50,000, of which about half was exported. The
price of the provincial grindstone in the Boston market is said to be a little more
than double that of Ohio stones, but the quality is so far superior that the market
has always been held. The only losses are in consequence of the removal of edge
tool establishments from New England to the Middle States.

THE FOREST AND ITS PRODUCTS.

From the earliest days the lumber industry has been a most important one in all
the provinces traversed by the Intercolonial. The earliest traffic of the line con-
sisted very largely in the carriage of lumber from interior points to ports of ship-
ment ; and though heavily timbered forests as a rule, are not now found in close
contiguity to the line, yet a great deal of merchantable lumber is found near by, at
numerous points along the main line, which is also connected by branch lines with
extensive lumber districts. The trade returns show that during the fiscal year,
1892, the three provinces of Quebec, New Brunswick and Nova Scotia, exported
products of their own forest to the value of over thirteen million dollars, as follows':

Quebec ..........................................$8,419,287

New Brunswick ................................... 3,430,458

Nova Scotia ....................................  1,664,696158

The principal forest product in these provinces is spruce, though there are also
large shipments of pine ; and birch, cedar, ash, elm, maple, oak, hemlock, and
hemlock bark for tanning, and other products also appear in the list. Wood isv
shipped in the form of logs, square timber, deals, boards, shingles, laths, staves, scant-
ling, railway ties, pulp wood, masts and spars, posts, etc., the chief market being found,,
in the British Islands; the West Indies, the United States, South America, New-
foundland and France also drawing supplies from this inexhaustible source. The
following statistics relative to the lumber industry of Quebec are taken from the
census of 1881 :

Number of saw mills ................................. 1,729

“	“ mill hands................................ 12,461

Annual wages .........................................$2,287,291

“ value of raw material .........................  $5,101,884

“	“	“products ..............................$10,542,649

Shingle mills.....:.................................. 377

Persons employed .................................... 868

Annual wages ........................................... $33,393

“ value of raw material ...........................   $60,665

“	“	“ products	.................•.... $128,718

This does not include round and square timber and other varieties of product
which would have swelled the total annual value to over $20,000,000.

The following figures relative to Quebec are from the census of 1891 :

^	Number	of

Industry.	establishments.

Cooperages........................ 240

Cork cutting ....................... 2

Paper Bag and Box Factories....	14

Starch and Blue Factory............. 1

Paper Mills.......................  18

Packing Case Factories.............. 7

Saw mills........................1,919

Planing and Woollen Mills.............	38

Carpenters and Joiners...........2,240

Value of
machinery
and tools,

$49,391

7,200

65,304

5,000

1,260,800

32,550

2,473,857

139,865

762,125

Number of
Employes.

480

42

473

20

1,396

254

13,943

438

4,916

The report of the Crown Lands Commissioner for the Province of Quebec, for
the year 1892, shows that the Province derived a revenue that year of $623,997
from its woods and forests. Among the items in the tabulated lists are 2,297,814
pieces of pine, etc., equal to 1,884,852 standards of 200 feet, and 2,522,781 pieces
of spruce, etc., equal to 744,685 standards of 200 feet. To the value of lumber-
cut on Government lands, some idea of which may be gathered from the figures
last quoted, must be added that realized from the cut on private property. Quebec
is far richer in pine timber than the other two Provinces named. Its forest wealth
is enormous. As the greater portion lies north of the St. Lawrence, it is unneces-
sary, for the purposes of this article, to do more than refer to it in this general
way, simply pointing out how great are the possibilities of the Province as a centre
for the manufacture of wood products. Illimitable acres of forest there are that
have never yet rung with the sound of the woodman’s axe.

The traveller by the Intercolonial on his journey eastward in summer, will
notice at Quebec large vessels taking lumber cargoes for British markets. Before
he reaches the border of New Brunswick, he will be many times forcibly reminded159

of the importance of this industry, especially when he observes train loads of
lumber from the Metapediac region being hauled from the mills to the New Bruns-
wick port of Dalhousie for shipment to distant markets, or observes car loads of
shingles going in the other direction, to find a market in the States.

Coming now to the Province of New Brunswick, it may be said, first, that the
chief source of provincial revenue is its timber lands ; and, second, that a very
large amount of its most valuable timber lands is owned by private corporations
and is not, therefore, a source of revenue; so that when it is stated that the
revenue from Crown timber lands in 1892 was $114,997, the statement does not
convey any adequate impression of the great wealth of forest land scattered over
the Province. Among the lumber cut on the Crown lands in 1892 were 79,495,134
superficial feet spruce and pine logs ; 1,526,554 superficial feet hemlock logs ;
12,034,758 superficial feet cedar logs ; 1,668,130 superficial feet hardwood logs
besides pine and hardwood timber, fire, spool and pulp wood, and numerous other
varieties of wood products. During the last session of the Provincial Legislature,
the leader of the Government stated that there were two million acres of good
timber lands owned by the Crown that were still unlicensed for lumbering pur-
poses. In addition there are very large areas not under Government control.
The Province of New Brunswick in the year ending June 30th 1892, exported
products of the forest (exclusive of ximerican lumber shipped from the port of St.
John) to the value of $3,430,458. During the year ending December 31st, 1892,
the Province exported to trans-Atlantic ports, in round numbers, 325,000,000
superficial feet of lumber. The census of 1891v shows that there were in the Pro-
vince then 495 saw-mills, employing 6,821 persons, and having machinery and
tools valued at $1,117,070.

The traveller, coming down the Intercolonial from Quebec, finds himself in a.
lumber region as soon as he has crossed the border into New Brunswick. The
Bestigouche river floats millions of feet of logs to the mills. There are mills at
Campbelltown, Dalhousie, Charlo, and other points in the county of Bestigouche.
Numerous small mills manufacture shingles for the American market. This,
branch of the industry has greatly developed, and it is estimated that in the
vicinity of sixty small shingle mills were operated last winter in that region. In
addition to this trade there were shipped from Dalhousie to trans-Atlantic ports in
1892, over 16,000,000 feet of lumber, and from Campbelltown, over 6,000,000 feet.
Large vessels go up to those ports to take cargo.

At Bathurst, in'Gloucester county, is the headquarters of the St. Lawrence
Lumber Co., who shipped from that port in 1892, nearly 10,000,000 feet of lumber
to trans-Atlantic ports.

The Miramichi region, where J. B. Snowball is one of the leading operators,
shipped to trans-Atlantic ports in 1892, in round numbers, 95,000,000 feet of lumber.
There are mills at Newcastle, Nelson, Douglastown, Chatham and other points.
There is a large pulp-mill at Chatham. Connection is made at Chatham Junction
with the Canada Eastern By., which runs through a fine lumber region to Freder-
icton, having mills established at intervals. This line passes through Marysville,
the wonderful town built up by the genius of Alexander Gibson, who is styled the
“King of the Nashwaak,” and who besides shipping some 40,000,000 feet or more
of lumber per year to trans-Atlantic markets, owns a large and valuable area of«160

timber lands, a large cotton mill, several finely equipped saw and shingle-mills,
affording employment throughout the year to many hundreds of persons. He
lighters the deals cut in his mills some sixty miles to St. John, in vessels of his
own, and he is one o£ the owners of the Canada Eastern Railway, to which his
lumber business affords much traffic. Mr. Gibson acquired wealth as a lumberman,
and affords a brilliant example of what ability and energy may accomplish in the
provinces by the sea.

Continuing his journey by the Intercolonial from the Miramichi region, the
traveller passes through Kent county, which also has important lumber 'interests.
The ports of Richibucto and Buctouche, in 1892, shipped over 13,000,000 feet of
lumber to trans-Atlantic ports. At Harcourt, in this county, are located tanning
extract works. Large quantities of lumber are also hauled over the Buctouche &
Moncton railway for shipment from the port of Moncton.

Westmorland and Albert counties also have large lumber interests. Moncton,
with its outports of Hillsboro and Harvey Bank in Albert and Cocagne in Kent
county, exported in 1892 to trans-Atlantic ports over 13,500,000 feet of lumber ;
Sackville, in Westmorland, with its outport Baie Verte, shipped over 14,500,000
feet; and Shediac, over 10,000,000 feet. Between Moncton and St. John the
Intercolonial is connected by branch lines with important lumber centres in Albert,
King’s, Queen’s and St. John counties.

Of St. John itself, it need only be said that here come the products of the
forests of the St. John river and its tributaries ; here are numerous mills of large
capacity and the best modern equipment ; and here the harbor is lined with vessels
taking cargoes of lumber for British, United States, West India, South American
and other ports. To trans-Atlantic ports in 1892 St. John shipped nearly 150,000,-
000 feet of lumber, and in addition to provincial lumber shipped to other ports,
the enormous cut of Aroostook lumber floated down from Maine waters is here
manufactured for shipment to American ports.

Returning from St. John to Moncton, and passing down into Cumberland
county, Nova Scotia, another great lumber region is found. First, speaking gener-
ally of Nova Scotia, it may be noted that its export of deals to trans-Atlantic ports
in 1892, amounted in round numbers to 88,000,000 feet. Its total export of products
of the forest for the year ending June 30th, 1892, was valued at $1,664,696. This
province ships more extensively to the West Indies and South America than does
New Brunswick, but like New Brunswick its chief market is found in the British
Islands. The census of 1891 reports saw-mills in Nova Scotia employing 4,704 men,
and having machinery and tools valued at $780,088.

Cumberland county is the chief seat of the lumber industry, though large
operations are carried on in many other sections of the province. There is one
section of Cumberland county, embracing Apple River and adjacent smalhstreams,
where within a radius of thirty-five miles eight mills cut 30,000,000 feet of lumber
last year. The trans-Atlantic shipments from Cumberland in 1892 were about
44,000,000 feet, or half the total of that class of shipments for the whole province.
All along the line of the Intercolonial the traveller will observe at intervals the
evidences of the importance and value of this great industry, at the terminus of
the line at Halifax vessels will also be found taking lumber cargoes.

The mass of figures here quoted is chiefly useful as an index of the great' forest..161

wealth of these provinces. In addition it may he added that there is room for the
profitable investment of capital and a great expansion of the lumber industry along
new lines, without at the same time greatly hastening the destruction of the forests.
The enormous cut of lumber at present is very largely shipped in the form of deals,
boards, timber, etc., and very little attention is devoted to the manufacture of the
numerous small wood products which in older countries are made a source
of wealth. As an instance of what may be done, a number of Maine
capitalists secured a block of what was locally regarded as very poor lumber
land in York county, and have developed a very large and profitable business
in the manufacture of last blocks. There is room for pulp factories, and special
attention is now being directed to the industry in Nova Scotia. The St. John
board of trade has recently been giving attention to the subject of encourag-
ing the establishment of new manufacturing industries, and among those for which
the outlook was regarded by the members as especially favorable were wood-work-
ing factories, such as would manufacture pegs, clothes pins, broom handles and the
thousand and one other useful articles of common use for which there is so great
demand. The manufacture of house frames, for shipment to southern parts ; of
doors, etc., such as the upper provinces now ship to British markets, and many
other branches of the industry offer an inviting field to the capitalist. It is along
these lines of varied production, involving more labor and the employment of more
machinery and skill in. the country itself that the future profitable development of
the lumber industry of the provinces must lie, and, as yet, when one considers
its vast possibilities, it is but a virgin field awaiting that development. The pulp
mill at Chatham, the last mill at York, a shoe peg and last factory at Truro, the box
factory and match works at Hampton and a number of wood-working establishments
in Quebec and all over Eastern Canada are on the line of this development.

Following are statistics of lumber traffic on the Intercolonial railway since it

pened for traffic as	a through line:		
Y ear.	Feet.	Year.	Feet.
1877		 .	.. 58,096,474	1885			138,493,645
1878		.. 56,626,547	1886			117,186,512
1879		.. 55,626,696	.	1887			161,801,763
1880		 . . .	.. 55,462,654	1888		....... .197,755,272
1881		. . 72,841,338	1889			199,507,777
1882		. . 78,356,418	1890			210,886,071
1883	. . .	. .104,633,417	1891			184,188,324
1884		. .131,120,948	1892			175,474,340

THE FISHERIES.

Many people fish for sport and recreation. This class of travellers will find
in the early chapters of this book 'much that will interest them. But fishing in
Eastern Canada should be considered from other points of view than that of the
sportsman. A' good many people catch fish for a living, and the industry is worth
studying as one of the sources of the .country’s wealth, and as a field of enterprise
for capital seeking investment.' Two or three of the richest men in the Eastern
Provinces' made their fortunes out of fish, and the business still makes large re-
turns- to careful and experienced investors. On the eastern shores of Canada lie

the coast waters which furnish a profitable harvest to thousands of professional
11162

fishermen. There-also are the ports and stations most conveniently situated for
carrying on fishing operations on the banks and other neutral waters. The Provincial
fisherman when engaged in sea fishing is never far from his base of supplier He
has always access to bait and ice, and to the nearest point from which his catch
may be forwarded by rail to the western market or to the port of final shipment.
This gives him a distinct advantage over his competitors. Then he has the ad-
vantage of a coast fishery which is almost perennial, and to which no foreign com-
petitor has access. When one kind of fish is out of season the Provincialist goes
after others, for at no season of the year are the coast waters entirely deserted by
the finny tribe.

The fishing products of Canada are valued at $17,000,000 to $20,000,000 a
year, according to the season. Three fourths of this catch is the produce of Quebec
and the other Maritime Provinces. In 1891 the value of the fish products of the
Provinces of Eastern Canada was :

Nova Scotia ................................ . ..........$7,011,300

New Brunswick............................................ 3,571,051

Quebec .................................................. 2,008,879

Prince Edward Island .................................... 1,238,704

The three Lower Provinces produced $86 worth of fish for each family of
the total population.

The Nova Scotia fisheries employed in 1891, 13,924 vessels and boats worth
$1,524,335 ; those of New Brunswick 5,298 vessels and boats worth $344,394 ;
those of Prince Edward Island 1,429 craft, with a value of $105,587, while Quebec
has 6,484 vessels and boats appraised at $220,668. The Nova Scotia fisheries em-
ployed in 1891, 24,376 men during the whole or part of the year. New Brunswick
had 12,222 fishermen, Prince Edward Island 4,026, and Quebec 14,530. The four
Provinces used in the year mentioned over 3,000,000 fathoms of nets valued at
$1,200,000. Other fishing material besides vessels, boats and nets employed in
1891, w~as returned at a value of nearly $1,700,000.

During the past twenty years the value of the annual Canadian fishery produce
has more than quadrupled. The produce of 1891 includes 849,838 cwt. of cod worth
$3,827,708 ; haddock, hake and pollock to the value of over $1,000,000 ; herring,
pickled, 298,598 barrels, smoked 2,386,920 boxes, frozen 9,108,650 pounds, total
value of herring over $2,294,914 ; value of lobsters in cans $1,999,921, value of
lobsters shipped fresh in the shell $252,500 ; mackerel, pickled, 139,261 barrels,
worth $1,949,654; smelts $277,036; oysters $183,846; halibut $215,469; bait fish
$212,736 ; alewives $194,030. The best shad in the world are found in the Bay of
Eundy and its tributaries. Salmon are forwarded in large quantities to the United
States. Sardine herring are delivered fresh at the factories at' Eastport, Maine ; or
are manufactured in Charlotte County.

At Kamouraska, on the St. Lawrence, is located a young and already prosper-
ous sardine industry, which gives promise of a great future. The people of the
locality had for many years been enriching their soil with a small fish which had a
habit of swarming on the shore in such quantities that it was a simple matter to
scoop them up by hogsheads. It was found one day that these fish when properly
prepared were quite equal to the best quality of Mediterranean Sardines. The
consequence of this discovery was the establishment of the present sardine industry
of the Lower St. Lawrence.■ 163

The principal fisheries of Quebec are not, however, on the river, but the Gulf
Uoast. These coasts and distant fisheries employ some 9,000 to 10,000 men and a
-capital of over a million. The celebrated Labrador herring fishery is largely man-
aged from Quebec, and that Province may be credited with the yield of the Magdalen
Islands and Anticosti fishery stations. The fish packed and dried at the Northern
Gulf ports sell in Mediterranean ports in competition with the product of the
French fisheries on the banks, the latter being protected by a bounty of $2.00 per
quintal. Several extensive shipments were made from Caraquet and Shippigan in
Northern New Brunswick to Civita Yecchia near Pome, to Naples, to Bari on the
Adriatic and to Messina in Sicily. The fish are prepared for the hot climate by a
method known as “the Gaspe cure,” and the fish thus preserved command the
highest price. Paspebiac on the Quebec side of the Baie des Chaleurs has long
been the headquarters of one of the largest fishing establishments on the continent,
which business was established and controlled for many years by a firm with head-
quarters on the Jersey Islands. Mackerel fishing is prosecuted with vigor froiii
Prince Edward Island, the coast of which is a favorite resort of this fish, especially
in the latter part of the season. The inshore waters are especially attractive to
mackerel, who have a cheerful habit of decoying the Gloucester fishermen all the
way out to the Gulf and then gliding within the three mile limit to become the
-exclusive prey of the native fishermen.

Seine and net fishing is pursued at the mouths of the New Brunswick rivers
emptying into the Gulf. The Nova Scotians take the lead in deep sea fishing as
will be seen by the statement of the number and value of the fishing vessels.
Lunenburg, Lockport, Barrington and Arichat are among the ports where vessels
-are fitted out extensively for the banks.

The Dominion Government pays a bounty of $1.50 per ton on the tonnage of
vessels employed in fishing, half going to the men and half to the owner of the
boat. Owners of boats employed in boat fishing are paid $1.00 per boat and men
are paid $3.00 per man. These payments are made under restrictions which ex-
clude some who fish for short periods. The vessels which drew bounty in 1891
were 705. Lunenburg County furnished 144, Halifax 90, Bichmond 71, Yarmouth
55, Shelburne and Digby 51 each, Guysboro’ 16, Inverness 12, with smaller
numbers from other Counties. In New Brunswick 64 vessels for Charlotte County,
5 for St. John, 45 for Gloucester, and 12 from other North Shore Counties drew
bounty. In Prince Edward Island 27 vessels were on the list, and an equal number
reported from Quebec. The average fishing vessel is a craft of 38 tons with about
-eight men.

The Counties of Halifax, Guysboro’, Bichmond and Lunenburg in Nova
Scotia, with Gaspe and Bonaventure in Quebec, report each more than 1,000 boats
in a position to claim fishing bounties. Gaspe had 2,515, Halifax 1,843, Bonaven-
ture 1,751, and the others under 1,500. A number of counties reported from 500
to 1,000 boats, the following being the list in order of importance: Victoria, N. S.,
Gloucester, N.B., Shelburne, N.S., Kings, P.E.I., Inverness, N.S., Charlotte,
N. B., and Saguenay, Quebec. Cape Breton County reported 499. The Island of
Cape Breton provided over 3,000 of the 17,701 boats which drew bounty in Canada.

In 1892 no less than 108 United States vessels availed themselves of the use of
^Canadian ports as a base of operations, by paying the license fee of $1.50 per ton.164

The Intercolonial Railway handles annually from 10,000 to 20,000 tons of fish,,
of which one-third are usually forwarded fresh and the balance salt. The indus-
tries of fish preserving are capable probably of much greater development than they
have yet reached. For many years the fishery products of Eastern Canada were
shipped in the simplest form possible. But of late years capital and enterprise have-
been attracted to the industry of preparing the products of the sea for the market
in the most approved form. Finnan haddies, boneless cod and other kinds of
preserved fish are shipped in large and increasing quantities. Canning factories
are increasing in number and in the variety of produce. According to the census of
1891 there were in that year 354 fish canning establishments in the four provinces.
The returns in details are as follows :

	Number of	Value of	Number
	establisments	machinery	employed
New Brunswick			103	$28,866	2,163:
Nova Scotia			118	53,555	2,909  970
Quebec			 35	43,600	
Prince Edward Island.		 98	55,883	2,186-
The fish curing establishments are thus returned :			
	Number of	Value of	Number
	establishments	machinery	employed*
New Brunswick			 745	$65,748	2,616
Nova Scotia			1,622	77,624	4,007
Quebec			1,883	221,510	6,976
Prince Edward Island .		 254	36,338	1,410

The lobster fisheries give rise to an important industry which is carried on
over twelve or fifteen hundred miles of the sea coast of Eastern Canada. Lobster
factories have sprung up along the Atlantic coast of Nova Scotia, the Gulf coast o
the four Provinces, on the Magdalen Islands, Anticosti and the Islands at the
mouth of the Bay of Fundy, and on the banks of the St. Lawrence. The lobster
is something of a cosmopolitan, and lobster packers are ubiquitous. It can hardly
be said that according to present indications there is an opening for larger invest-
ments in lobster factories. The demand for lobster, it is true, is continually increas-
ing, and the European market knows no satiety for the right class of goods. But
the question whether the fecundity of the lobster is equal bo the demand has been,
impressing itself upon the ruling powers in a serious manner. The answer is given in
certain restrictions fixing close seasons, and in the establishment of lobster hatcheries.
The Government of Newfoundland set the example of lobster propagation. Even
in that Colony the system has hardly passed the experimental stage, but it gives,
promise of satisfactory results. The business of capturing lobsters to be forwarded
alive to the United States has grown to large dimensions. In his native dress the
lobster brings a larger price than in a tin can. The United States market is, however,
limited. The British market will be more than equal to any emergency when the-
difficulties of safe transportation can,be met, as it is believed they will be in the-,
near future. The construction of lobster ponds, where these shell-fish are placed
to grow large and fat, and to await a favorable market, has been found profitable-
by'at least one- operator. The figures of the growth'of the lobster business are-
instructive. ' In 1869 the total catch was only 61,000 pounds. It reached 1,130,000-
pounds two years later and gradually climbed up to 8,117,221 pounds in 1874. The-165

Business was stationary for a few years and it was not until 1878 that an improve-
ment was made on 1874. In 1879 the output was 10,244,329 pounds. Here are
the figures for subsequent years:

33,758,421

19,485,687

22,173,772

21,131,233

25,055,984

26,928,157

1880			13,105,072	1886..
1881			18,576,523	1887..
1882			20.813,730	1888 . .
1883.,			17,084,020	1889..
1884			22,063,283	1890..
1885			27,299,038	1891..

It will be seen that the culmination occurred about 1886. At that time the situ-
ation became dangerous. The size of lobsters was constantly decreasing, and it
was feared that the race would disappear altogether. The catch was reduced by
restrictions imposed upon it, and it is considered that the industry is now on a
much healthier basis.

The oysters produced on the Gulf coast chiefly in Hew Brunswick and Prince
Edward Island have a high reputation. The annual value of the produce of the
-oyster fisheries is about $200,000 a year. Oyster fishing has been prosecuted
mainly in primitive fashion with rakes, and little or no attention has been paid to
oyster culture, which has been found in other countries necessary to the preser-
vation of the species. Last year, however, two experts in this business were
brought out from England to inspect the oyster beds of Canada, and report on the
possibilities of preserving them and increasing their capacity. These gentlemen
reported the discovery of several beds near Shediac and at Richibucto in Hew
Brunswick, at Bedeque, Richmond Bay, the Harrows and elsewhere in Prince
Edward Island, and at Tracadie in Hova Scotia. Some of these grounds are in
eourse of preparation for restocking, and there is little doubt that within a few
years the production of oysters in the Eastern Provinces will be conducted on a
scientific basis. The report of Mr. Ernest Kemp, one of these experts, says of
Richibucto : “Here are found a large quantity of oyster brood ; on every place
that was dredged were found an abundance of the same in the healthiest condition;
everything brought up by the dredge proved to be oyster brood. A sight like this
would not be seen on any oyster grounds in England.” Of Bedeque he says:

4 4 The oysters and brood brought up were of fine quality and in a healthy condition,
growing very fast. ” Of Richmond Bay, he writes: 4 4 This ground covers a very exten-
sive area, I find the same nothing short of a gold mine; these grounds appear to be
very prolific. Some of the beds are very large consisting of many areas the stock upon
them comparing well with cultivated grounds; the resources appear to be enormous.
In no single instance have we seen any death or a marine enemy to the oyster, a
most remarkable coincidence over such an area of ground.” The Harrows and
Biddeford : 44 These places were found to be in the same flourishing condition as
Richmond Bay. The oysters here were found to be smaller in size and round in
shape with a deep bottom shell, resembling the English oyster more than anything
previously seen. They were well fished and of delicate flavor. ” East River : 4 4 We
were enabled to see sights worth looking at, che ground being completely covered
with oyster brood of a very fine shape. Individuals who have leased oyster grounds
would do well to restock their beds by picking this brood.”166

MANUFACTURES.

The statement of the resources and industries of Eastern Canada will not ba-
complete without some mention of the development of manufacturing enterprises.
No part of the Dominion is so well adapted to most manufactures as the region
nearest the eastern' sea board. Raw material for industries in wood and iron i&
produced in the4 neighborhood. Building material is plentiful and cheap. Fuel
is obtainable at a minimum price. The climate is not too hot in summer, nor too-
cold in winter for efficient labor. Cheap transportation for raw material from
foreign countries may be had. Owing to the advantages of position, the Maritime
Provinces were, a quarter of a century ago, the greatest ship building region in the
world.

The same causes which enabled shipping to be produced more cheaply in
Eastern Canada than elsewhere, have made it the most advantageous position for
other manufacturing enterprises.

The decline of the wooden shipping interest has stimulated investments in
other manufacturing industries.

Between 1881 and 1891 the increase in file number of manufacturing establish-
ments has been 46 per cent, in Quebec, 63 per cent, in Prince Edward Island, 74
per cent, in New Brunswick, and 90 per cent, in Nova Scotia. The increase of
capital invested has been, 97 per cent, in Quebec, 39 per cent, in Prince Edward
Island, 97 per cent, in New Brunswick, and 88 per. cent, in Nova Scotia. Wages,
paid have increased 67 per cent, in Quebec, 35 per cent, in Prince Edward Island,
53 per cent, in New Brunswick, and 70 per cent, in Nova Scotia. The value of
products has increased 46 per cent, in Quebec, 27 per cent, in Prince. Edward
Island, 28 per cent, in New Brunswick, and 63 per cent, in Nova Scotia.

In the returns for .1891, the number of establishments and capital are as
follows :

Number of
establishments.

Capital.

Quebec...............................23,112

Prince Edward Island................. 2,677

New Brunswick........................ 5,419

Nova Scotia.....■.....................10,373

$116,969,581

2,910,663

16,608,755

19,007,614

Following are statistics of employes and wages:

Employes.

Quebec.............................  116,830

Prince Edward	Island.................. 7,906

New Brunswick........................ 26,609

Nova Scotia.......................... 34,265

Wages.

$30,670,991
1,092,780
5,936,021
6,974,818

The following table gives some account of the growth of the manufacturing
industries in some of the cities and towns on the line of the Intercolonial.

QUEBEC.

1881.

Number of establishments...................... 850

Capital invested....................... $4,434,784

Number of hands employed.................... 8,449

Wages paid............................. $1,685,999

Cost of material. . ................... •	6,002,492

Value of products....................... 9,789,215

Value per head of population. /..............  157

1891.

1,410

$8,982,319

10,371

$2,710,701

8,477,460

14,804,551

235167

LEVIS, QUEBEC.

1881.

Number of establishments..................... 72

Capital.............................. $511,693

Number of hands employed.................... 722

Wages paid...............,........... $168,347

Cost of material........................ 362,365

Value of products....................... 649,929

Value per head of population.................. 86

ST. JOHN, NEW BRUNSWICK.

1881.

Number of establishments..................... 204

Capital.............................. $2,143,064

Number of hands employed................... 2,690

Wages paid............................. $749,340

Cost of material ..................... 2,564,700

Value of products...................... 4,123,753

Value per head of population................ 100

MONCTON, NEW BRUNSWICK.

1881.

Number of establishments............. ,	53

Capital ............................... $530,380

Number of hands employed.................... 603

Wages paid............................. $251,840

Cost of material.....................  1,222,402

Value of products..................... 1,719,382

Value per head of population................ 341

HALIFAX, NOVA SCOTIA.

' 1881.

Number of establishments.................... 351

Capital...............................$2,205,888

Number of hands employed.................. 3,013

Wages paid............................. $906,298

Cost of material......;.............. 3,464,260

Value of products..................... 5,355,670

Value per head of population................ 148

TRURO, NOVA SCOTIA.

1881.

Number of establishments.............. 55

Capital................................ $156,430

Number of hands employed.................... 306

Wages paid............................. $106,730

Cost of material........................ 213,965

Value of products......................  391,180

Value per head of population................ 113

AMHERST, NOVA SCOTIA.

1881.

Number of establishments..................... 52

Capital...............................   $81,035

Number of hands employed.................... 288

Wages paid.............................. $83,605

Cost of material........................ 140,321

Value of products....................... 283,485

Value per head of population................ 125

1891.

146

$762,207

1,220

$315,610

586,399

1,107,310

152

1891.

773

$5,384,658

5,818

$1,862,148

4,627,834

8,050,230

205

1891.

96

$1,099,025

911

$297,250

1,339,059

1,899,536

216

1891.

348

$5,337,885

4,308

$1,215,049

4,545,237

7,492,993

194

1891.

131

$368,346

708

$223,236

389,625

845,990

166

1891.

97

$328,630

682

$198,677

347,083

724,313

191168

NEW GLASGOW,	NOVA SCOTIA.	
	1881.	1891.
Number of establishments		40	122
Capital		.. ..	$160,630	$566,108
Number of hands employed		360	667
Wag£s paid		. .. .	$92,686	$217,036
Cost of material		166,224	399,230
Value of products		 . . . .	313,404	913,077
Value per head of population		121	242
NO^TH SYDNEY AND SYDNEY MINES, N.S.		
	1881.	1891.
Number of establishments		38	216
Capital		.. ..	$36,296	$193,854
Number of hands employed			120	523
Wages paid		. ...	$20,936	$126,790
Cost of Material		55,484	130,400
Value of products		. . ..	103,482	325,363
Value per head of population		68	105
SYDNEY, NOVA SCOTIA.		
	1881.	1891.
Number of establishments		65	'	157
Capital 				$30,231	$137,574
Number of hands employed		85	330
Wages paid		$13,043	$113,000
Cost of material		43,701	126,562
Value of products		81,396	331,043
Value per head of population		55	136
CHARLOTTETOWN,	P. E. ISLAND.	
	1881.	1891.
Number of establishments		...	198	238
Capital			$980,018	$959,589
Number of hands employed		1,005	1,049
Wages paid		$236,241	$281,119
Cost of material: 			610,209	797,795
Value of products		998,530	1,405,246
Value per„ head of population		87	123

Ifc is not possible to go much into detail with respect to the individual indus-
tries, many of which have been discussed in other sections.

In the city of Quebec shoe and leather industries are carried on more exten
sively than in any other place in Canada ; except, possibly, the much larger city of
Montreal. The latest Quebec hand book represents that the tannery industry in
Quebec city employs 1,300 persons, and that 4,000 hands in that city are employed
in shoemaking establishments. The same authority places the value of leather pro-
duced at $2,500.00 and estimates at $4,000,000 the value of boots and shoes pro-
duced in the factories of Quebec town. Therp are also in Quebec extensive indus-
tries in wood, iron and indeed in nearly all departments. Moncton has a sugar
refinery, a cotton factory, a large foundry and machine shop and spacious woolen
mills. Among the larger industries in St. John are two cotton factories, two
rolling mills, locomotive works, cut and wire nail factories, a brush factory, cordage
factory and brass works. The largest boot and shoe industry in the lower Pro-169

vinees is at Amherst where also are extensive railway car works. Truro has a great
number of industries, several of which are peculiar to itself. Its iron and steel work-
ing factories are important. Among the larger manufacturing establishments of Hali-
fax and Dartmouth are two sugar refineries, a cotton factory, cordage works, iron
bridge industry, skate works, and furniture establishments. There is a cotton
factory and other large industries at Windsor. Besides the extensive industries
mentioned in Pictou county there are among others, glass works at Trenton and
at New Glasgow a steel shipbuilding plant worthy of special mention.

POSTAL INFORMATION.

LETTER RATES, ETC.

Canada.—Letters posted in Canada, addressed to any place within the Do-
minion, 3 cents per oz. If unpaid, such letters cannot be forwarded, but will be
sent to the Dead Letter Office. If insufficiently prepaid, the letter will (provided
at least a partial prepayment is made) be forwarded to its destination and double
the deficiency charged on delivery. Letters mailed at any office for delivery at or
from the same office, provided that the office is not one at which free delivery by
letter carriers is established, are charged 1 cent per oz., and must be at least par-
tially prepaid, otherwise they are sent to the Dead Letter Office. All postage must
be prepaid by Postage Stamps. Letters of this nature mailed at, and for delivery
from an office at which there is a free delivery by letter carriers, are liable to 2
cents per ounce.

Post Cards.—From any place in Canada to any other place in Canada, or to the
United States, 1 cent each. British and Foreign, 2 cents each.

United Kingdom.—Postage on Letters, 5 cents per^oz., whether by Canadian
or New York steamers. If sent unpaid, double postage will be charged.

Newfoundland.—Letters, 3 cents per oz. Postal cards, 2 cents. News-
papers, 1 cent per 2 oz.

Bermuda.—Letters, 5 cts. per J oz. Newspapers and printed matter gener-
ally, 1 cent per 2 oz.

United States.—The rate on letters to the United States is the same as in
Canada, and at least one rate must be prepaid.

REGISTRATION OF LETTERS.

Persons posting letters containing value, should be careful to require them to
be Registered, and to. obtain from the Postmaster a certificate of receipt for
Registration.

The charge for Registration (use Registration Stamp), in addition to the Post-
age, is, on all classes of matter, five cents.

Both the Postage charge and Registration fee should, in all cases, be prepaid
by stamp.

Registered Letter Stamps have been issued of the denomination of 5 cents,
which may be obtained at any Stamp Agency.

Registration Stamps cannot be used in payment of postage.

Registration is not an absolute guarantee against the miscarriage or loss of a
Letter ; but a Registered Letted* can be traced where an Unregistered Letter can-
not, pnd the posting and delivery or non-delivery can be proven.170

BOOK POST, ETC.

A Book Packet may contain any number of separate books. Limit of weight
for domestic post, 5 lbs.; for foreign post, 4 lbs. Limit of size, two feet in length,
or one foot in width or depth.

Book Packets must be open at both ends or both sides, and must not contain
any letter or sealed enclosure.

The rate on Book Packets between any two places in Canada is 1 cent per 4
oz., which must be prepaid by stamps.

The rate to Great Britain and the United States is 1 cent per 2 oz.

TRANSIENT NEWSPAPERS.

Transient newspapers and periodicals include all newspapers and periodicals
posted in Canada, other than Canada newspapers sent from the office of publication,
and British newspapers posted by news agents for regular subscribers in Canada.
When addressed to any place within the Dominion, or the United States, they must
be prepaid the following rates by Postage Stamp :

If weighing less than 1 oz., half a cent each.

If weighing over 1 oz., one cent per four oz. or fraction of four oz.

On transient newspapers addressed to the United Kingdom the rate will be
one cent per 2 oz.—to be prepaid by Postage Stamp. Canada newspapers posted
from the office of publication to subscribers in the United Kingdom—if to be sent in
the Mails forwarded via New York, must be prepaid by Postage Stamp at the
transient paper rate of one cent per 2 oz.; but if sent by Canada Packet, such
papers may pass, as now on prepayment by the publisher, at the rate of one cent
per pound. All newspapers and periodicals prepaid at the bulk rate of 1 cent, per
lb. must be stamped “Prepaid by Publisher,” at the Post Office where the news-
paper or periodical is mailed. The English Post Office requires each newspaper or
periodical to be stamped. If sent in packages the English Post Office declined to
accept them.

IRTISH C O L O N T A T. HA ILWAY

LIST OF HOTELS

Name of Hotel.

Halifax........

Queen..........

Waverley House

Royal..........

Acadian........

Carleton House.

Bedford.
Bellevue

Prince of Wales......

Parker House.........

Victoria.............

Learment.............

Grand Central........

HALIFAX.

Proprietor.	No. Guests,
. H. Hesselin & Sons			 350
, Atlantic Hotel Co			 200
.Mrs. Romans			 60
. Miss A. Windsor			50
.George Nichols			 40
Mrs. IVlargeson	•. ..		 40
BEDFORD.	
		 50
William Wilson			 45
TRURO.	
. A. L. McKenzie			 60
Mrs. Ainsley			 50
George Dupe			 40
A. H. Learment				 40
, A. Carter				 30171

PIOTOU.

Name of Hotel.	Proprietor.

New Revere.................C.	L. Rood........

Central....................D.	P. Adamson.....

NEW GLASGOW.

Windsor....................John Learment.....

Norfolk.....................H.	Murray........

Vendome.....................D.	MeDermaid.....

RIYER JOHN.

Riverside...................W. S. Willett....

TATAMAGOUCHE.

Sterling...................T. McLellan.......

WALLACE.

Wallace.....................Mrs. Munroe......

Hillside...................E. Edgett.........

PUGWASH.

Central.....................E. D. Woodlock...

Acadia .....................Mrs. Wm. Chapman.

American House..............Mrs. Colbourn....

Temperance House............J. G. Smith.......

OXFORD.

Nixon......................J. C. Faulds ......

Queen.......................P. A. Worlock.....

PARRSBORO.

Grand Central...............C. E. Day .......

Queen ......................D. McNamara .....

Minas ......................M. Gavin .........

Cumberland House...........T. Mahoney ........

AMHERST.

Amherst....................George McFarlane	..

Terrace....................Calhoun Bros......

SACKYILLE.

Brunswick ..................T. Easterbrooks..

Intercolonial..............Arthur W. Dixon

Temperance House...........Mrs. N. R. Patterson

DORCHESTER,

Dorchester House ...........George P. Wallace	. .

POINT DU CHENE.

Zephyr House................Edward McDonald	..

SHEDIAC.

Weldon House................James D. Weldon__

Union ......................P. D. Legere......

- SAINT JOHN.

Victoria....................D. W. McCormick....

Hoyal.......................Thomas F. Raymond

Hotel Dufferin..............Fred. A. Jones...

New Victoria ...............J. L. McCoskery __

No. Guests.

.....	50

.....	25

100

150

100

25

60

25

20

40

30

20

15

75

40

60

35

25

20

75

60

75

25

25

100

25

150

50

100
loO
1 0
100172

SAINT JOHN—(Continued).

Name of Hotel.	Proprietor.

Clifton ......................A. N. Peters.......

Queen .........................Jam.es Dickey ....

HAMPTON.

Yendome.......................W. T. Scribner.....

C. P. R.......................James R. Humphrey

Leonard .......................E. Leonard.........

Depot House
Queen .....

Mansard House . .
Temperance House
Graves..........

Brunswick

Royal.....

Commercial
Queen ...

Kent.......

Commercial.
New Kent .
Union......

Waverley . .
Commercial

Adams House.
Canada House
Bowser's.....

SUSSEX.

.. Mrs. A. McLean ..
.. P. Doherty....

PETITCODIAC.

. . N. Doherty...

. .D. A. Jonah ..

.. W. T. Graves.

MONCTON.

.. George McSweeney
. .William Wallace ..

.. P. Gallagher..

.. P. Gallagher .

RICHIBUCTO.

.. George Irving.

. .Phil. Woods...

. .S. O’Donnel ..

.. Mrs. Hannah...

NEWCASTLE.

. . J. McKeen....

. . D. Doyle.....

CHATHAM.

. .Thomas Flanagan . .
. .William Johnston. .
. .Miss Bowrser..

BATHURST.

Keary House..................T. F. Keary

Carter’s....................John Carter .

Power House..................M. Power .. .

Albert House (Bathurst Village). .Mrs. Grant.-.,
Wilbur House.................P. H. Wilbur

JACQUET RIVER.

Barclay’s..................J. C. Barclay...........

Doyle’s.....................M. P. Doyle ...........

DALHOUSIE.

Inch Arran............ . ...Hugh Alexander, Manager

Murphy’s....................Thomas Murphy..........

Clifton..................... J. M. McLeod..........

CAMPBELLTON.

Royal.......................James Sproul...........

Intercolonial..... .........D. O’Keefe.............

Queen......................H. O’Keefe..............

McIntyre...................A. McIntyre.............

No. Guests.

..... 75

.....	75

50

10

25

100

50

35

10

5

200
120
100
604

15

10

10

10

20

20

20

15

15

100

30

20

20

20

25

25

300

50

40

30

15

20

15173

Name of Hotel.

Seaside...........

Turriff Hall......

Cascade House....
Green Hill House
Roy’s.............

St. Lawrence Hall

Rimouski........

Ocean Steamers ...
Windsor.........

LITTLE METIS.

Proprietor.

. .. W. Astle........

. . .R. Turriff......

.. .John McNide......

. . W. & A. Turriff..

... A. Roy............

RIMOUSKI.

... A. St. Laurent & Co.

... F. St. Laurent ..

.. .L. Lenghan.......

. .. P. Ouellet.......

JBIC.

Canada......................Michel Pineault......

Private Boarding House......Madame Louis Pineault

“	“	“	.... Hector Berube.......

“	“	“	....W. Chamberlan .......

CACOUNA.

St. Lawrence Hall...........T. D. Shipman........

Mansion House...............Charles Bertrand.....

Sirois......................Ad. Sirois...........

Gagnon’s....................Mrs. F. Gagnon.......

Talbot.....

Deslaurier’s
Bellevue ...

St. Louis.............

Ward’s...............

Vendome...............

Langlais House .......

Labree ...............

Le Bel’s.............

Private Boarding House

Montmagny ..........

Hotel du Gouvernment

Hotel St. Louis.....

Mad. Cote’s.........

RIVIERE DU LOUP.

....Edward Talbot...

....Jos. Deslaurier....

....J. A. Fontain....

KAMOURASKA.

.... W. Blais.......

.....Thomas Ward.....

....Miss Deschenes —

....Miss Langlais —

....Miss Labree ....

....J. R. Le Bel.....

....Mrs. Ward.......

ST. THOMAS,

....Louis Letourneau

....F. X. Bernier ....

....Zephirin Belanger

....Madam F. Cote...

LEVIS.

Kennebec ...................James Lawlor ...

Terminus ...................Lamieux & Co ...

Levis.......................Mathias Gregoire

Frontenac .
St. Louis ...
Florence...'
Henchey’s ..
Blanchard’s

QUEBEC.

C. P. Ry. Co.
W. E. Russell

B. Trudel....

H. Henchey .
Mde. Pelletier

ANTIGOXISH.

Central House ..............Rufus Hale........

Cunningham..................W. E. Cunningham.

Smith’s.....................A. C. Smith ......

Randall’s...................F. Randall........

No. Guests.

...... 125

...... 100

...... 100

......	30

......	15

80

60

40

30

20

20

15

15

650

250

150

75

100

50

200

40

20

20

30

15

15

10

30

40

20

30

50

50

60

500

500

175

100

35

50

40

30

35174

Name of Hotel.

Sea Side...........

Central ...........

Murray House ....
McLeod House.......

Farquhar House
American House
Hawkesbury

Hastings House

Caledonia......

McMillan’s

Smith .........

Victoria ......

Sea View.....

Martell.......

McNeil’s . . ..
Richmond

Murray House

Grand Narrows

Bras D’Or House
Telegraph House

McLellan House

Vendome......

Belmont .....

Presto ......

McKenzie House

Clarke House____

Internatiopal__

MULGRAVE.

Proprietor.^

....P. A. Grant....

....C. Whooten.......

....D. Murray........

... Mrs. R. McLeod.

HAWKESBURY.

....F. Mclnnis .....

....J. Cameron.......

....J. Stapleton ....

HASTINGS.

.... Mr. Chisholm ..

....H. McQuarrie ..

.... D. McMillan ...

....Mrs. Smith.......

....Mr. Rowels.......

ARICHAT.

...M. A. Bosdet......

....A. Martell.....

...A. McNeil ........

....J. J. Robertson..

MABOU.

....Mrs. Murray......

GRAND NARROWS.

... .McDougall & McNeil

BADDECK. "

...A. Anderson......

....Dunlap Bros......

NORTH SYDNEY.

...T. McLellan ......

... .John Smith.....

.... John McDonald ....
....B. Musgrave......

SYDNEY.

....H. R. McKenzie __

....Wm. Clarke.......

...J. McKinnon.......

No. Guests.

......	50

...... 20

...... 20

...... 20

20

XO XO OlOOOO CM O O O O XO xoo XOOCO ooo
CM t-I	CM CO CM CM CO	HNHH	CM	CM	COCOCOCO	00 CO175

INDEX

__ .	.	PAGE

This is a Preface................................................ 3

A Ramble and a Rest	  5

The City of Quebec............................................... 7

The Lower St. Lawrence.......................................... 11

Riviere du Loup................................................. 13

Across the Broad River......................................     15

Forests and Streams............................................. 18

Canoe and Paddle................................................ 20

Cacouna........................................................  22

Bic ! Beautiful Bic............................................  25

Rimouski and the Hermit........................................  27

Little Metis.................................................... 29

Ode to Spring................................................... 31

Metapediac Lake and Valley...................................... 32

Gun and Rod in the Metapediac................................... 34

A Provincial Possibility........................................ 35

On the Restigouche River........................................ 40

Dalhousie....................................................... 43

Along the Gaspe Shore..........................................  45

La Bale des Chaleurs............................................ 46

Bathurst and the Nepisiguit..................................... 49

Miramichi....................................................... 51

The Great Fire.................................................. 55

Miramichi to Moncton............................................ 58

Moncton........................................................  58

Shediac......................................................... 60

Amherst.....................................................     67

Where the Waters bring Wealth................................... 67

Parrsboro.....................................................   70

Truro........................................................... 75

Down Among the Coal Mines....................................... 81

Pictou.......................................................... 83

New Glasgow..................................................... 84

Anno Murium..................................................... 86

Antigonish...................................................... 87

On an Ocean Bye-Way............................................. 90

Cape Breton..................................................... 91

Truro to Halifax............................................... 102

Halifax........................................................ 103

Outside of Halifax............................................. 109

Annapolis Royal................................................ 112

Prince Edward Island........................................... 114

The Magdalen Island Group...................................... 121

Moncton to St. John............................................ 124

Sussex................... ...........................■....... 124

St. John....................................................... 126176

PAGE

Rod and Rifle..................................................... 133

Sources of Wealth in Eastern Canada............................... 137

Introduction...................................................... 138

Agricultural.....................................................'.	139

Mineral Wealth—Go]d............................................... 141

Coal............................................ 149

Iron...........................................  151

Other Mineral Substanees.......................................... 154

Gypsum...........................'............................... 154

Lime ............................................................. 155

Building Stone.................................................... 156

Granite........................................................... 157

Grindstone...'.................................................... 157

The Forest and its Products....................................... 157

The Fisheries..................................................... 161

Manufactures...................................................... 166

Postal Information................................................ 169

List of Hotels.................................................... 170

ILLUSTRATIONS.

PAGE.

Quebec, from Levis, P.Q.......................................... 8

Hotel Frontenac.................................................... 17

Moose Hunting along the Intercolonial Railway.................... 21

A Morning’s Catch on the Metapedia River ........................ 33

Marshall’s Gulch, Restigouche River, looking towards Cross Point.	39

Meeting of the waters of the famous salmon rivers—Metapedia and Res-
tigouche .................................................... 42

“ The Bore ” (Tidal Wave), Moncton, N.B.......................... 61

Moose River Falls, near Parrsboro, N.S........................... 65

Parrsboro, N.S..................................................... 69

Partridge Island, Parrsboro, N.S................................... 73

“Joe Howe Falls, ” Victoria Park, Truro, N.S..................... 77

Victoria Park, Truro, N.S................*....................... 79

View in Victoria Park, Truro, N.S................................ 80

Intercolonial Railway Passenger Station, New Glasgow, N.S.......... 85

Intercolonial Railway Passenger Station, Halifax, N.S.............. 89

Northwest Arm, Halifax, N. S..................................... 93

Driveways in Mount Pleasant Park, Halifax, N.S..................... 97

Entrance to Public Gardens, Halifax, N.S......................... 101

View in Public Gardens, Halifax, N.S............................... 105

Looking out to Sea, from Dartmouth, N. S......................... 107

View in Queen’s Square Gardens, Charlottetown, P.E.1.............. 113

View in Queen’s Square Gardens, Charlottetown, P.E.I.............. 117

Victoria Row, opposite Queen’s Square Gardens, Charlottetown, P.E.I. 119

St. John, N.B., Harbor and Water Front........................... 125

Intercolonial Railway Passenger Station, St. John, N.B........... 127

Head of King Street, St. John, N.B............................... 131TO ALL THE SUMMER

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