36AZ-4-28-12 1972 CHEVY VAN and SPORT VAN WITHDRAWN -UACC,C University of CHASSIS Illinois Library at Urbana-Champa SERVICE MANUAL This manual includes procedures for maintenance and adjustments, minor service operations, and removal and installation for components of Series 10 through 30 Chevy Van vehicles. Most procedures involving disassembly and assembly of major components for these vehicles are contained in the 1972 Chevrolet Overhaul Manual. Those few overhaul procedures which differ will be found at the end of the applicable section of this manual. The Section Index on this page enables the user to quickly locate any desired section. At the beginning of each section containing more than one major subject is a Table of Contents, which gives the page number on which each major subject begins. An Index is placed at the beginning of each major subject within the section. Summaries of Special Tools, when required, are found at the end of major sections while specifications covering vehicle components are presented at the rear of the manual. This manual should be kept in a handy place for ready reference. If properly used, it will enable the technician to better serve the owners of Chevrolet built vehicles. All information, illustrations and specifications contained in {his literature are based on the latest product information available at the time of publication approval. The right is reserved to make changes at any time without notice. UNIVERSITY OF ILLINOIS LICRARY AT URBANA-CHAMPAIGN STACKS • • . CHEVROLET MOTOR DIVISION General Motors Corporation DETROIT, MICHIGAN <* SECTION INDEX SECTION NAME A GENERAL INFORMATION U AND LUBRICATION 1A HEATER AND AIR CONDITIONING IB BODY ign2 FRAME 3 FRONT SUSPENSION A REAR SUSPENSION 4 AND DRIVELINE ^ 5 BRAKES £ ENGINE 6K ENGINE COOLING 6M FUEL SYSTEM 6T EMISSION CONTROL SYSTEMS 6Y ENGINE ELECTRICAL J CLUTCH AND TRANSMISSION O FUEL TANK AND O EXHAUST SYSTEM 9 STEERING 10 WHEELS AND TIRES 11 CHASSIS SHEET METAL 12 ELECTRICAL—BODY AND CHASSIS 13 RADIATOR AND GRILLE m 14 BUMPERS 15 ACCESSORIES SPECIFICATIONS 1972 eneral Motors Corporation Printed in U.S.A. U SAP //o 3>AT£DOC. (,\5: SECTION O GENERAL INFORMATION LUBRICATION CONTENTS OF THIS SECTION Page General Information..............................0-1 Lubrication ....................................0-6 GENERAL INFORMATION Model Line Up..................................0-1 Series and Model Identification .....................0-1 Vehicle Identification Number and Rating Plate..................................0-1 Engine Number .................................0-1 Unit and Serial Number Locations...................0-1 MODEL LINE UP The Chevy Van and Sportvan are available in the models listed below: INDEX Page Page -CYLINDER MODELS W/B 8-CYLINDER MODELS GS11005-06-36 110” GE 11005-06-36 GS11305-06-36 125” GE11305-06-36 GS21005-06-36 110” GE21005-06-36 GS21305-06-36 125” GE21305-06-36 GS31005-06-36 110” GE31005-06-36 GS31305-06-36 125” GE31305-06-36 SERIES AND MODEL IDENTIFICATION The five digit number preceded by two letters is used to identify truck series and models. For example, vehicle GS11005 would be: 0 Light-Duty Forward Control;[D L-6 gasoline engine; OD 3600 lbs.-5600 lbs. GVW: ITU! 60”-65” Cab-to-Axle dimension; ES Panel, as listed below: First Letter—Chassis E2 — Light-Duty Forward Control Second Letter—Engine A - All E — V-8 Gasoline S — L-6 Gasoline First Number—GVW Range Q]- 3600-5600 lbs. 2 - 5500-8100 lbs. 3 - 6700-10,000 lbs. Second and Third Numbers—Cab-to-Axle Dimension ES- 60-65” 13 - 78-83” Service Parts Identification Plate ....................0-2 Keys and Locks .................................0-3 Pushing to Start Vehicle...........................0-3 Towing........................................4^3 Engine Vehicle Availability.........................0-4 Load Capacity Chart.............................0-5 Fourth and Fifth Numbers—Body and Brake* [Q5l - Panel 06 — Suburban (Panel Rear Doors) 36 — Deluxe Suburban (Panel Rear Doors) *Hydraulic unless otherwise specified. VEHICLE IDENTIFICATION NUMBER AND RATING PLATE A combination vehicle identification number and rating plate used on all models (fig. 1) is located on the left door pillar. The vehicle identification number stamped on the plate decodes into the information shown in Figure 2. ENGINE NUMBER The engine number indicates manufacturing plant, month and day of manufacture, and transmission type. A typical engine number would be F1210FA, which would breakdown thus: F—Manufacturing Plant (F-Flint, T-Tonawanda) 12—Month of manufacture (December) 10—Day of manufacture (tenth) FA—Transmission and engine type UNIT AND SERIAL NUMBER LOCATIONS t For the convenience of service technicians and engineers when writing up certain business papers such as Warranty Reports, Product Information Reports, or reporting product failures in any way, the location of the various unit numbers have been indicated. These unit numbers and their prefix or suffix are necessary on these papers for various reasons—such as accounting, follow-up on production, etc.CHEVROLET MOTOR DIVISION ^ GENERAL MOTORS CORPORATION o WARRANTY MAY BE VOIDED IF WEIGHT EXCEEDS ANY OF THE RATINGS SHOWN. GROSS VEHICLE WEIGHT INCLUDES WEIGHT OF BASE TRUCK, ALL ADDED EQUIPMENT, DRIVER AND PASSENGERS, AND ALL PROPERTY LOADED INTO TRUCK. ♦ REFER TO OWNER’S MANUAL FOR EQUIPMENT REQUIRED FOR INTERMEDIATE OR MAXIMUM GVW RATINGS, AND FOR OTHER LOADING INFORMATION, INCLUDING TIRE INFLATION. RATING IN POUNDS AS MANU- * MAXIMUM FACTURED CAPABILITY GROSS VEHICLE WEIGHT FOR THIS VEHICLE MAXIMUM FRONT END WEIGHT AT GROUND MAXIMUM REAR END WEIGHT AT GROUND VEHICLE IDENTIFICATION NO. O o Axles • Rear Axle Serial Number Located at the Bottom Flange of Carrier Housing. • Rear Axle (Except Half Ton) Forward Upper Surface of Carrier. Transmissions • 3-Speed Transmission Unit Number Located on Lower Left Side of Case Adjacent to Rear of Cover. • Powerglide and Turbo Hydra-Matic 350 Transmission Unit Number Located on Right Rear Vertical Surface of Oil Pan. Engines • 6-Cyhneer Engine Unit Number Located on Pad at Right Hand Side of Cylinder Block at Rear of Distributor. • 8-Cylinder Engine Unit Number Located on Pad at Front, Right Hand Side of Cylinder Block. Delcotrons Delcotron Unit Serial Number—Top of Rear Housing. Batteries Battery Code Number Located on Cell Cover Top of Battery. Fig. 1—Vehicle Identification Number and Rating Plate Information The prefixes on certain units identify the plant in which the unit was manufactured and thereby permits proper follow-up of the plant involved to get corrections made when necessary. Always include the prefix in the number. DIVISION C = CHEVROLET ENGINE DESIGNATION MODEL YEAR 2=1972 FOR ALL SERIES SEQUENTIAL NUMBER CHASSIS TYPE MODEL TYPE 5-Panel 6-Suburban ASSEMBLY PLANT V-GM Truck-Pontiac R-Arlington S-St. Louis T-Tarrytown U-Lordstown G-Framingham W-Willow Run J-Janesville Y-Wilmington K-Leeds Z-Fremont L-Van Nuys 1-Oshawa N-Norwood 2-Ste. Therese Starters Starter Serial Number and Production Date Stamped on Outer Case, Toward Rear. SERVICE PARTS IDENTIFICATION PLATE The Chevrolet Truck Service Parts Identification Plate (fig. 3) is provided on all Truck models. It is located on an inner body panel to the right of the rear door. The plate lists the vehicle serial number, wheelbase, and all Production options or Special Equipment on the vehicle when it was shipped from the factory including paint information. ALWAYS REFER TO THIS INFORMATION WHEN ORDERING PARTS. SERVICE PARTS IDENTIFICATION V.I.N. —VEHICLE IDENTIFICATION NUMBER NOTE: THE SPECIAL EQUIPMENT LISTED BELOW HAS BEEN INSTALLED ON THIS VEHICLE. FOR PROPER IDENTIFICATION OF REPLACEMENT PARTS BE SURE TO SPECIFY THE APPLICABLE OPTION NUMBERS. IMPORTANT: RETAIN THIS PLATE AS A PERMANENT RECORD Fig. 2—Vehicle Identification Number Fig. 3—Service Parts Identification PlateGENERAL INFORMATION 0-3 KEYS AND LOCKS Two keys are provided with each vehicle. The keys operate the ignition switch and door locks. EMERGENCY STARTING • Never tow the vehicle to start because the surge forward when the engine starts could cause a collision with the tow vehicle. • Engines in vehicles with automatic transmissions cannot be started by pushing the vehicle. • To start the vehicle when the Energizer (battery) is discharged, use a single auxiliary battery or Energizer of the same nominal voltage as the discharged battery, with suitable jumper cables. • Make connections as set forth below under “Jump Starting With Auxiliary (Booster) Battery” to lessen the chance of personal injury or property damage. CAUTION: Never expose battery to open flame or electric spark—battery action generates hydrogen gas which is flammable and explosive. Don't allow battery fluid to contact skin, eyes, fabrics, or painted surfaces—fluid is a sulfuric acid solution which could cause serious personal injury or property damage. Wear eye protection when working with battery. Jump Starting With Auxiliary (Booster) Battery Both booster and discharged battery should be treated carefully when using jumper cables. Following exactly the procedure outlined below, being careful not to cause sparks: 1. Set parking brake and place automatic transmission in r Fig. 4—Booster Battery Cable Ground Connection. “PARK” (neutral for manual transmission). Turn off lights, heater and other electrical loads. 2. Remove vent caps from both the booster and the discharged batteries. Lay a cloth over the open vent wells of each battery. These two actions help reduce the explosion hazard always present in either battery when connecting “live” booster batteries to “dead” batteries. 3. Attach one end of one jumper cable to the positive terminal of the booster battery (identified by a red color, “+” or “P” on the battery case, post or clamp) and the other end of same cable to positive terminal of discharged battery. Do NOT permit vehicles to touch each other, as this could establish a ground connection and counteract the benefits of this procedure. 4. Attach one end of the remaining negative (—) cable to the negative terminal (black color, “—” or “N”) of the booster battery, and the other end to the engine lift bracket on 6 cylinder models and the delcotron mounting bracket on V8 models (see Figure 4) of your 1972 vehicle (do not connect directly to negative post of dead battery)—taking care that clamps from one cable do not inadvertently touch the clamps on the other cable. Do not lean over the battery when making this connection. Reverse this sequence exactly when removing the jumper cables. Re-install vent caps and throw cloths away as the cloths may have corrosive acid on them. CAUTION: Any procedure other than the above could result in: (1) personal injury caused by electrolyte squirting out the battery vents, (2) personal injury or property damage due to battery explosion, (3) damage to the charging system of the booster vehicle or of the immobilized vehicle. Do not attempt to jump start a vehicle having a frozen battery because the battery may rupture or explode. If a frozen battery is suspected, examine all fill vents on the battery. If ice can be seen, or if the electrolyte fluid cannot be seen, do not attempt to start with jumper cables as long as the battery remains frozen. PUSH STARTING If your vehicle is equipped with a manual transmission, it can be started in an emergency by pushing. When being pushed to start the engine, turn off all unnecessary electrical loads, turn ignition to “ON,” depress the clutch pedal and place the shift lever in high gear. Release the clutch pedal when speed reaches 10 to 15 miles per hour. Bumpers and other p^rts contacted by the pushing vehicle should be protected from damage during pushing. Never tow the vehicle to start. TOWING Normally your vehicle may be towed with all four wheels on the ground for distances up to 50 miles at speeds of less than 35 MPH. The engine should be off and the transmission in neutral. However, the rear wheels must be raised off the ground orthe drive shaft disconnected when the transmission is not operating properly or when a speed of 35 MPH or distance of 50 miles will be exceeded. CAUTION: If a truck is towed on its front wheels only, the steering wheel must be secured with the wheels in a straight ahead position. ENGINE—VEHICLE AVAILABILITY Vehicle Displacement Cyl. Comp. Ratio Spark Plugs GS 10-20-30 250 Cu. In. L6 8.5:1 R 46—T GE 10 307 Cu. In. V 8 8.0:1 R 44—T GE 20-30 350 Cu. In. V 8 9.0:1 R 44—T LOAD CAPACITY CHART INTERPRETATION The first column of the Load Capacity Chart shows the basic model series. The next column reflects the wheelbases available within each series. The third column shows the Gross Vehicle Weight (GVW) ratings applicable to each series vehicle. GVW means the maximum design weight of the vehicle itself and all equipment added to the vehicle after it has left the factory, the driver weight and occupant weight and everything that is loaded into or onto the vehicle. Following the GVW columns are the minimum recommended tires to qualify the vehicle for each GVW rating. The tire pressures listed in the column adjacent to the tire sizes in the chart are the minimum required tire pressures for maximum permissible loads. The letters “B.E.” under the Front and Rear Axle and Spring columns indicate that base equipment is satisfactory to qualify the vehicle for any given GVW rating. When the letters “RPO” denoting Regular Production Option, followed by a number appears in these columns (example RPO G50), the vehicle must be equipped with the extra cost equipment specified by the RPO to qualify the vehicle for the given GVW rating. The ratings shown under the columns identified “Maximum Front End Weight at Ground” and “Maximum Rear End Weight at Ground” indicates the maximum permissible loading or weight at the ground regardless of spring or axle capacity ratings. These ratings are developed on the basis of the minimum component capability be it axles, springs or tires. In loading the vehicle, the combined front and rear end weights at the ground must not exceed the GVW specified for the vehicle as manufactured. In trailer hauling applications, the vehicle rear end weight at the ground with trailer attached must not exceed the “Maximum Rear End Weight at Ground” rating of the vehicle. A typical example of a Truck in a loaded condition is shown in Figure 5. Note that the axle or GVW capabilities are not exceeded. LOADED-MAXIMUM GVW: 4500 LBS. Front Curb 1959 lbs. Front Cargo Load 300 lbs. 2259 lbs. Rear Curb 1562 lbs. Rear Cargo Load 650 lbs. 2212 lbs. TOTAL WEIGHT AT GROUND: 4471 lbs. 4 Fig. 5—Typical Vehicle Loaded ConditionLOAD CAPACITY CHART LOAD CAPACITY CHART FOR 1972 CHEVROLET SERIES G10, G20, G30 CHEVY VAN 1972 MODELS WHEEL BASE GROSS VEHICLE WEIGHT RATING (POUNDS)* MAXIMUM LOAD CAPACITY c MINIMUM MANDATORY EQUIPMENT FOR GVW RATING FRONT TIRES FRONT TIRE PRES- SURE REAR TIRES REAR TIRE PRES- SURE FRONT AXLE FRONT SPRINGS GROSS AXLE WEIGHT RATING-FRONT* REAR AXLE REAR SPRINGS GROSS AXLE WEIGHT RATING REAR* GS-GE10 (05 models) 110 4500 990 E78-14B or 7.00 1 4Q ,e 32 45 G78-14B or 7.00 14C e 32 45 BE BE BE BE 2548 2620 BE BE BE BE 2300 2300 5000 a 1440 F78-14B or 7.00-14D 32 60 F78-14B or 7 00-14D 32 60 BE BE RPO F60 RPO F60 2730 3000 BE BE RPO G50 RPO G50 2730 3100 125 4600 920 F78-14B or 7.00-14C e 32 45 F78-14B or 7.00-14C e 32 40 BE BE BE BE 2620 2620 BE BE BE BE 2300 2300 5100 a 1380 F78-14B or 7.00-14D 32 60 F78-14B or 7.00-14D 32 60 BE BE RPO F60 RPO F60 2730 3000 BE BE RPO G50 RPO G50 2730 3100 GS-GE20 (05 models) 110 5500 1890 G78-15B 32 G78 15B 32 BE BE 2948 BE BE 2948 6000 2380 H78-15B 3i H78-15B 32 BE BE 3200 BE BE 3200 125 5600 1830 G78-15B 32 G78-15B 32 BE BE 2948 BE BE 2948 6000 2230 H78-15B 32 H78 15B 32 BE BE 3200 BE BE 3200 GS-GE30 (05 models) 110 6100 2210 8.00-16.50 40 8.00 16.5C 45 BE BE 3200 BE BE 3460 6700 2800 8.75-16.5C 35 8.75-16.5C 45 BE BE 3200 BE BE 3980 7600 3660 8.75-16.5D 35 8.75-16.5D 60 BE BE 3200 BE RPO G50 4700 GE30 (05 models) 110 8100 b 4180 8.75-16.5E 35 8.75-16.5E 75 BE BE 3200 BE RPO G50 5360 GS-GE30 (05 Models) 125 6200 2150 8.00-16.5C 40 8.00 16.5C 45 BE BE 3200 BE BE 3460 6900 2840 8.75-16.5C 35 8.75 16.5C 45 BE BE 3200 BE BE 3980 7800 3700 8.75-16.5D 35 8.75 16.5D 60 BE BE 3200 BE RPO G50 4700 GE30 (05 models) 125 8300 b 4010 8.75-16.5E 35 8.75-16.5E 75 BE BE 3200 BE RPO G50 5360 LOAD CAPACITY CHART FOR 1972 CHEVROLET SERIES G10, G20, G30 SPORTVAN AND BEAUVILLE SPORTVAN 1972 MODELS WHEEL- BASE GROSS VEHICLE WEIGHT RATING (POUNDS)* MAXIMUM LOAD CAPACITY c MINIMUM MANDATORY EQUIPMENT FOR GVW RATING FRONT TIRES FRONT TIRE PRES- SURE REAR TIRES REAR TIRE PRES- SURE FRONT AXLE FRONT SPRINGS GROSS AXLE WEIGHT RATING-FRONT* REAR AXLE REAR SPRINGS GROSS AXLE WEIGHT RATING-REAR * GS-GE10 (06,36 Models) 110 5200 1380 F78-14B 32 F78-14B 32 8E BE 2730 BE BE 2730 5400 1580 G78-14B 32 G78-14B 32 BE BE 2948 BE BE 2948 125 5400 1410 G78-14B 32 G78-14B 32 BE BE 2948 BE BE 2948 GS-GE20 (06, 36 models) 110 5700 1830 G78-15B 32 G78-15B 32 BE BE 2948 BE BE 2948 125 5800 1770 G78-15B 32 G78-15B 32 BE BE 2948 BE BE 2948 110 6000 2130 H78-15B 32 H78-15B 32 BE BE 3200 BE BE 3200 125 6200 2160 H78-15B 32 H78-15B 32 BE BE 3200 BE BE 3200 GS-GE30 (06, 36 models) 125 6600 2310 8.00-16.5C 40 8.00 16.5C 45 BE BE 3200 BE BE 3460 7000 2700 8.75-16.5C 35 8.75-16.5C 45 BE BE 3200 BE BE 3980 7300 2980 8.75-16.5D 35 8.75-16.5D 50 BE BE 3200 BE BE 4200 7600 d 3260 8.75-16.5D 35 8.75-16.5D 60 BE BE 3200 BE RPO G50d 4700 GE30 (06,36 models) 125 8300 bd 3770 8.75-16.5E 35 8.75-16.5E 75 BE BE 3200 BE RPO G50d 5360 Refer to the Gross Vehicle Weight Rating plate on the vehicle. Gross Axle Weight Rating-Front, and Gross Axle Weight Rating-Rear on this chart are based upon component minimum capacity of axles, springs, or tires, a RPO J70 Power Brakes required, b RPO F59 Front Stabilizer Bar required. c "Maximum Load Capacity" represents the maximum total weight of people, luggage, cargo and equipment that may be added to a standard vehicle equipped with a base six cylinder engine. This "Maximum Load Capacity" rating must be reduced by the additional weight of a V8 engine (if a V8 engine is used), and by the weight of any other optional equipment, d 7600 and 8300 GVW and RPO G50 rear springs for 06, 36 models are not to be promoted, e Optional tires available as RPO equipment. •LUBRICATION INDEX Page Engine Oil and Filter Recommendations.................0-6 Drive Belts..................................0-7 Positive Crankcase Ventilation...................0-7 Air Injection Reactor System ...................0-7 Controlled Combustion System..................0-7 GM Evaporation Control System.................0-7 Manifold Heat Control Valve....................0-7 Air Cleaner .................................0-7 Fuel Filter..................................0-7 Distributor..................................0-7 Governor...................................0-7 Accelerator Linkage...........................0-8 Automatic Transmission Fluid Recommendations......0-8 Manual Transmission ............................0-8 Transmission Shift Linkage .......................0-8 Clutch .......................................0-8 Rear Axle.....................................0-8 Standard ...................................0-8 The time or mileage intervals for lubrication and maintenance services outlined in this section are intended as a guide for establishing regular maintenance and lubrication Page Positraction.................................0-8 Propeller Shaft Slip Joints ........................0-8 Universal Joints ................................0-8 Wheel Bearings.................................0-8 Front Rear..................................0-8 Rear.......................................0-9 Brake Master Cylinder ...........................0-9 Brake and Clutch Pedal Springs ....................0-9 Parking Brake..................................0-9 Steering ......................................0-9 Manual Steering Gear..........................0-9 Power Steering System ........................0-9 Steering Linkage and Suspension.................0-9 Hood Latch and Hood Hinge......................0-9 Body Lubrication...............................0-11 Speedometer Adapter............................0-11 Extended Vehicle Storage ........................0-11 Lubrication Diagram ............................0-10 Vehicle Lifting Points............................0-11 periods. Sustained heavy duty and high speed operation or operation under adverse conditions may require more frequent servicing. ENGINE OIL AND FILTER RECOMMENDATIONS The letter designation “SE” has been established to correspond with the requirements of GM 6041-M as revised. “SE” engine oils will be better quality and perform better than those identified with “SA” through “SD” designations and are recommended for all Chevrolet light-duty gasoline trucks regardless of model year and previous engine oil quality recommendations. OIL CHANGE PERIOD • Use only SE engine oil (SE oils meet quality standard GM 6041-M). • Change oil each 4 months or 6,000 miles. If more than 6,000 miles are driven in a 4-month period, change oil each 6,000 miles. I • Change oil each 2 months or 3,000 miles, whichever occurs first, under the following conditions: —driving in dusty conditions —trailer pulling —extensive idling —Short-trip operation at freezing temperatures (engine not thoroughly warmed-up). • Operation in dust storms may require an immediate oil change. • Replace the oil filter at the first oil change, and every second oil change thereafter AC oil filters provide maximum engine protection. The above recommendations apply to the first change as well as subsequent oil changes. The oil change interval for the Chevrolet engine is based on the use of SE oils and quality oil filters. Oil change intervals longer than those listed above will seriously reduce engine life and may affect Chevrolet’s obligation under the provisions of the New Vehicle Warranty. A high quality SE oil was installed in the engine at the factory. It is not necessary to change this factory-installed oil prior to the recommended normal change period. However, check the oil level more frequently during the break-in period since higher oil consumption is normal until the piston rings become sealed. NOTE: Non-detergant and other low quality oils are specifically not recommended. Oil Filter Type and Capacity Throwaway type, 1 quart U.S. measure, .75 quart Imperial measure. 250 cu. in., AC Type PF-25. 307 cu. in., 350 cu. in., AC Type PF 35. Crankcase Capacity (Does not include filter) 4 quarts U.S. measure, 3.25 quarts Imperial measure.Recommended Viscosity Select the proper oil viscosity from the following chart: NOTE: SAE 5W-20 oils are not recommended for sustained high-speed driving. SAE 30 oils may be used at temperatures above 40° F. The proper oil viscosity helps assure good cold and hot starting. Checking Oil Level — The engine oil should be maintained at proper level. The best time to check it is before operating the engine or as the last step in a fuel stop. This will allow the oil accumulation in the engine to drain back in the crankcase. To check the level, remove the oil gauge rod (dip stick), wipe it clean and reinsert it firmly for an accurate reading. The oil gauge rod is marked “FULL” and “ADD OIL”. If the oil is at or below the “ADD” mark on the dipstick, oil should be added as necessary. The oil level should be maintained in the safety margin, neither going above the “FULL” line nor below “ADD OIL” line. NOTE: The oil gauge rod is also marked either, "Use SE Engine Oil” or, "Use GM 6041-M Quality MS Oil", as a reminder to use only SE oils. Supplemental Engine Oil Additives The regular use of supplemental additives is specifically not recommended and will increase operating costs. However, supplemental additives are available that can effectively and economically solve certain specific problems without causing other difficulties. For example, if higher detergency is required to reduce varnish and sludge deposits resulting from some unusual operational difficulty, a thoroughly tested and approved additive “Engine Oil Supplement” -is available. DRIVE BELTS Drive bells should be checked every 6,000 miles or 4 months lor proper tension. A loose belt will affect water pump and generator operation. POSITIVE CRANKCASE VENTILATION VALVE Every 24,000 miles or 24 months the valve should be replaced. Connecting hoses, fittings and flame arrestor should be cleaned. Al every oil change the system should be tested for proper function and serviced, if necessary. AIR INJECTION REACTOR SYSTEM (A.I.R.) CONTROLLED COMBUSTION SYSTEM (C.C.S.) The Air Injection Reactor system should have the drive belt inspected for wear and tension every 12 months or 12,000 miles, whichever occurs first. In addition, complete effectiveness of either system, as well as full power and performance, depends upon idle speed, ignition timing, and idle fuel mixture being set according to specification. A quality tune-up which includes these adjustments should be performed periodically to assure normal engine efficiency, operation and performance. GM EVAPORATION CONTROL SYSTEM Every 24 months or 24,000 miles (more often under dusty conditions) the filter in the base of the canister must be replaced and the canister inspected. MANIFOLD HEAT CONTROL VALVE Every 6,000 miles or 4 months, check valve for freedom of operation. If valve shaft is sticking, free it up with GM Manifold Heat Control Solvent or its equivalent. AIR CLEANER NOTE: Under prolonged dusty driving conditions, it is recommended that these operations be performed more often. Oil Wetted Paper Element Type— L-6 engine, replace every 12,000 miles; V-8 engine, every 12.000 miles, inspect element for dust leaks, holes or other damage. Replace if necessary. If satisfactory, rotate element 180° from originally installed position. Replace at 24,000 miles. Element must not be washed, oiled, tapped or cleaned with an air hose. Crankcase Ventilation Filter (Located Within Air Cleaner) If so equipped, inspect at every oil change and replace if necessary. Replace at least every 24,000 miles; more often under dusty driving conditions. FUEL FILTER Replace filter element located in carburetor inlet every 12 months or 1 2,000 miles whichever occurs first, or, if an in-line filter is also used, every 24,000 miles. Replace in-line filter every 24,000 miles. i DISTRIBUTOR Remove distributor cap and rotate lubricator 1/2 turn at 12.000 mile intervals. Replace at 24,000 mile intervals. GOVERNOR The attaching bolts should be kepi tight, the optionally available governor should be kept clean externally and the filter element should be replaced every 12,000 miles.ACCELERATOR LINKAGE Lubricate with engine oil every 12,000 miles as follows: 1. On V8 engine, lubricate the ball stud at the carburetor lever. 2. On L6 engine, lubricate the two ball studs at the carburetor lever and lubricate the lever mounting stud. Do not lubricate the accelerator cable. AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION FLUID RECOMMENDATIONS General Motors DEXTRON® Automatic Transmission Fluid, which has been especially formulated and tested for use in the automatic transmission is recommended. Other automatic transmission fluids identified with the mark DEXTRON® are also recommended. Check the fluid level at each engine oil change period. To make an accurate fluid level check: 1. Drive vehicle several miles, making frequent starts and stops, to bring transmission up to normal operating temperature (approximately 180-190° F). 2. Park vehicle on a level surface. 3. Place selector level in “Park” and leave engine running. 4. Remove dipstick and wipe clean. 5. Reinsert dipstick until cap seats. 6. Remove dipstick and note reading. If oil level is at or below the ADD mark on the dipstick, oil should be added as necessary. One pint raises the level from ADD to FULL. Do not overfill. Under normal driving conditions, the transmission fluid should be changed every 24,000 miles. If the vehicle is driven extensively in heavy city traffic during hot weather, or is used to pull a trailer, change fluid every 12,000 miles. Likewise, operators of trucks in commercial use where the engine idles for long periods, should change fluid every 12,000 miles. To Change Turbo Hydra-Matic 350 fluid, remove fluid from the transmission sump, add approximately 2-1/2 qts. U.S. measure (2 qts. Imperial measure) for the Turbo Hydra-Matic 350 of fresh fluid, to return level to proper mark on the dipstick. r MANUAL TRANSMISSION 3-Speed and 4-Speed—every 6,000 miles or 4 months— check at operating temperature and fill as necessary to level of filler plug hole with SAE 80 or SAE 90 GL-5 gear lubricant. Where ambient temperatures below freezing (+32°F.) are expected, use only SAE 80 GL-5 Gear Lubricant. SAE 90 Gear Lubricant should be used only where ambient temperatures are continuously above +32° F. TRANSMISSION SHIFT LINKAGE (MANUAL AND AUTOMATIC) Every 6,000 miles or 4 months-lubricate shift linkage and, on Manual transmission floor control, lever contacting faces with water resistant EP chassis lubricant which meets GM Specification GM 6031M. CLUTCH The clutch pedal free travel should be checked at regular intervals. Lubricate the clutch cross-shaft at fitting (on Series 10 Forward Control models also lubricate the clutch linkage idler lever at fitting) every 6,000 miles or 4 months with water resistant EP chassis lubricant which meets General Motors Specification #GM-6031M. REAR AXLES Standard Every 4 months or 6,000 miles, whichever occurs first, check lubricant level and add lubricant, if necessary, to fill to level of filler plug hole. Use GL-5 Gear Lubricant as shown in the following table. Outside Temperature Viscosity Lubricant To Be Used BELOW 10°F SAE 80 UP TO 100°F SAE 90 ABOVE 100°F CONSISTENTLY SAE 140 On 20 or 30 Series trucks, drain lubricant every 24,000 miles. If vehicle is operated in exceptionally heavy work or at continuous high speeds, the lubricant should be changed every 12,000 miles. It may be necessary to change lubricant more often if vehicle is used off road in dusty areas. Positraction Same intervals as standard axle but use only the special Positraction lubricant available at your authorized dealer. PROPELLER SHAFT SLIP JOINTS Propeller shaft slip joints should be lubricated every 6,000 miles or 4 months with water resistant EP chassis lubricant which meets General Motors Specification GM 6031M. UNIVERSAL JOINTS All universal joints are the needle bearing type. Lubricate those universal joints (depending on truck model) equipped with lube fittings every 6,000 miles or 4 months with water resistant EP chassis lubricant which meets General Motors Specification GM 6031M. More frequent lubes may be required on heavy duty or “Off the Road” operations. WHEEL BEARINGS Front NOTE: Use wheel bearing lubricant GM Part No. 1051344 or equivalent. This is a premium high melting point lubricant which meets all requirements of General Motors Specification GM 6031M.Due to the weight of the tire and wheel assembly it is recommended that they be removed from hub before lubricating bearings to prevent damage to oil seal. Then remove the front wheel hub to lubricate the bearings. The bearings should be thoroughly cleaned before repacking with lubricant. Front wheels are equipped with tapered roller bearings on all trucks. Wheel bearings should be lubricated every 24,000 miles. Do not mix wheel bearing lubricants. CAUTION: "Long Fibre” type greases should not be used on roller bearing front wheels. Rear The rear wheel bearings receive their lubrication from the rear axle. When installing bearings which have been cleaned, prelube with wheel bearing grease. BRAKE MASTER CYLINDER Check master cylinder fluid level in both reservoirs every 6,000 miles or 4 months. If the fluid is low in the reservoir, it should be filled to a point about 1/4” from the top rear of each reservoir with Delco Supreme No. 11 Hydraulic Brake Fluid. BRAKE AND CLUTCH PEDAL SPRINGS Lubricate brake and clutch pedal springs every 6,000 miles or 4 months with engine oil for all models. PARKING BRAKE Every 6,000 miles or 4 months clean and lubricate all parking brake pivot points with water resistant EP chassis lubricant which meets General Motors Specification GM 6031M. STEERING MANUAL STEERING GEAR The steering gear is factory-filled with steering gear lubricant. Seasonal change of this lubricant should not be performed and the housing should not be drained—no lubrication is required for the life of the steering gear. Every 36,000 miles, the gear should be inspected for seal leakage (actual solid grease-not just oily film). If a seal is replaced or the gear is overhauled, the gear housing should be refilled with #1051052 (13 oz. container) Steering Gear Lubricant which meets GM Specification GM 4673M, or its equivalent. NOTE: Do not use EP Chassis Lube, which meets GM Specification GM 6031M, to lubricate the gear. DO NOT OVER-FILL the gear housing. NOTE: Lubricate intermediate steering shaft with water resistant EP chassis lubricant which meets General Motors Specification #GM 6031M every 6,000 miles or 4 months on P-10 models only. POWER STEERING SYSTEM Check the fluid level in the pump reservoir at each oil change period. Add GM Power Steering Fluid as necessary to bring level to proper range on filler cap indicator depending upon fluid temperature. If at operating temperature (approximately 150°F-hot to the touch), fluid should be between “HOT” and “COLD” marks. If at room temperature (approximately 70°F), fluid should be between “ADD” and “COLD” marks. Use DEXRON® Automatic Transmission Fluid if GM Power Steering Fluid is not available. Fluid does not require periodic changing. STEERING LINKAGE AND SUSPENSION Maintain correct front end alignment to provide easy steering, longer tire life, and driving stability. Check control arm bushings and ball joints for wear. Lubricate tie rods, upper and lower control arms, and ball joints at fittings with water resistant EP chassis lubricant which meets General Motors Specification GM 6031M every 6,000 miles or 4 months. NOTE: Ball joints must be at +10°F. or more before lubricating. Keep spring to axle U bolts and shackle bolts properly tightened (see Specifications Section for torque recommendations). Check U bolt nuts after the first 1,000 miles of operation if the U bolt or U bolt nuts are changed in service. HOOD LATCH AND HOOD HINGE Every 6,000 miles or 4 months, whichever occurs first, lubricate hood latch assembly and hood hinge assembly as follows: 1. Wipe off any accumulation of dirt or contamination on latch parts. 2. Apply Lubriplate or equivalent to latch pilot bolts and latch locking plate. 3. Apply light engine oil to all pivot points in release mechanism, as well as primary and secondary latch mechanisms. 4. Lubricate hood hinges. 5. Make hood hinge and latch mechanism functional check to assure the assembly is working correctly.* > Fig. 7—Lubrication—1/2, 3/4 and 1 Ton L.D.F.C. No. Lubrication Points Lubrication Period Type of Lubrication Quantity Remarks 1 Control Arm Bushings and Ball Joints 6,000 Miles Chassis Lubricant 12 places as required 2 Tie Rod Ends 6,000 Miles Chassis Lubricant 4 places as required 2 fittings each side 4 Wheel Bearings 30,000 Miles Whl. Brg. Lubricant 2 places as required 5 Steering Gear 36,000 Miles Clutch Cross-Shaft 6,000 Miles Chassis Lubricant As required 8 Trans. Control Shaft 6,000 Miles Chassis Lubricant As required 9 Air Cleaner-Element 12,000 Miles Replace L-6, Rotate V-8, Replace V-8 at 24,000 miles. 10 Distributor-L-6, V-8 12,000 Miles Replace Cam Lubricator* 11 Transmission-Synchromesh -Automatic 6.000 Miles 6.000 Miles GL-5 Dexron® or Equivalent As required As required See Lubrication Section See Lubrication Section 12 Rear Axle 6,000 Miles GL-5 As required See Lubrication Section 13 Oil Filter Every Second Oil Change 14 Battery 5,000 Miles Engine Oil Oil Terminals and Felt Washers 15 Brake Master Cylinder 6,000 Miles Delco Supreme No. 11 or Equivalent As required Check-Add fluid when necessary 16 Parking Brake Linkage 6,000 Miles Chassis Lubricant Lubricate Linkage and Cables ♦Replace Points and Lubricator at 24,000 Mile Intervals.BODY LUBRICATION Normal use of a truck causes metal-to-metal movement at certain points in the cab or body. Noise, wear and improper operation at these points will result when a protective film of lubricant is not provided. For exposed surfaces, such as door checks, door lock bolts, lock striker plates, dovetail bumper wedges, etc., apply a thin film of light engine oil. Where oil holes are provided in body parts a dripless oil can be saiely used, but any lubricant should be used sparingly, and after application all excess should be carefully wiped off. The seat adjusters and seat track, ordinarily overlooked, should be lubricated with water resistant EP chassis lubricant which meets General Motors Specification GM 6031M. There are other points on bodies which may occasionally require lubrication and which are difficult to service. Window regulators ^and controls are confined in the space between the upholstery and the outside door panel. Easy access to the working parts may be made by removing the trim. Door weatherstrips and rubber hood bumpers should be lightly coated with a rubber lubricant. SPEEDOMETER ADAPTER On vehicles so equipped, lubricate adapter at fitting with water resistant EP chassis grease which meets General Motors Specification #GM 6031M every 6,000 miles. EXTENDED VEHICLE STORAGE If you plan to store your truck over an extended period of time, certain steps should be taken to give it maximum protection. It is recommended that you write the Chevrolet Motor Division, General Motors Corporation, Owner Relations Dept., Detroit, Michigan 48202, for detailed instructions on how to prepare your truck for storage. Fig. 8—Vehicle Lifting PointsSECTION 1A HEATER AND AIR CONDITIONING CONTENTS OF THIS SECTION Standard Heater...............................1A-1 Auxiliary Heater...............................1A-6 Air Conditioning ..............................1A-9 STANDARD HEATER INDEX Page Page General Description...................... ......1A-1 Left Distributor Duct ............ .............1 A-4 Controls............................. ......1A-2 Defroster Duct.................. .............1 A-4 Component Replacement and Repair......... ......1A-2 Control Assembly ............... .............1A-5 Blower Assembly...................... ......1A-2 Control Cables.................. .............1A-5 Heater Core Case and Core Assembly ...... ......1A-2 Blower Switch.................. .............1 A-6 Heater Hoses......................... ......1A-3 Resistor....................... .............1 A-6 Center Distributor Duct................. ......1A-3 GENERAL DESCRIPTION The heater components are mounted to the right side of the the dash while the heater case, core, ducting and controls are dash panel. The blower motor is located on the forward side of located in the passenger compartment. DASH DEFROSTER AIR DOOR CORE BLOWERFig. 2—Heater Controls The heater operates on “outside air” only, with the blower receiving its airflow from the cowl vent plenum chamber. Engine coolant flows through the heater core whenever the engine is running. Heater output is controlled by varying the amount and temperature of the air entering the passenger compartment. A dash mounted, three lever control system is used to position the “DEFROST”, “AIR”, and “TEMPERATURE” doors and to actuate the three speed blower switch. CONTROLS The controls are located in the instrument panel, just to the right of the instrument cluster. In operation, three levers control all heater operations (figs. 1 and 2). HEAT Lever When this lever is fully up, all incoming air is diverted around the heater core. When fully down, all air is directed through the core for maximum heating. The lever may be moved anywhere between to provide the desired outlet temperature by blending both heated and unheated air. AIR-FAN Lever When this lever is fully up, no air passes through the system. Moving the lever down approximately halfway, opens the air door in the air distributor assembly. Moving the lever the rest of the way down actuates the three speed (LOW-MED-HI) blower switch. DEFR Lever When this lever is fully up, all incoming air is directed to the floor outlets. Moving the lever down, directs increasing amounts of air to the defroster outlets until at the full down position, all of the air is directed to the defroster outlets. COMPONENT REPLACEMENT AND REPAIRS BLOWER MOTOR (Fig. 3) Replacement 1. Disconnect the battery cables and remove the battery. 2. Disconnect the blower motor lead wire. 3. Remove the five blower motor to dash screws and remove the motor and wheel assembly. Pry gently on the blower flange if the sealer acts as an adhesive. 4. Remove the blower wheel to motor shaft nut and separate the wheel and motor assemblies. 5. To install a new motor, reverse Steps 1-4, NOTE: The following precautions should be taken to assure proper installation: a. Assemble the blower wheel to the motor with the open end of the wheel away from the blower motor. b. If the motor mounting flange to dash sealer has hardened, or is not intact, remove the old sealer and apply a new bead of sealer to the entire circumference of the mounting flange. c. Check blower operation; blower wheel should rotate freely with no interference. HEATER CORE CASE AND CORE Replacement (Fig. 4) 1. Disconnect the battery ground cable. 2. Place a clean pan under the vehicle and then disconnect the heater core inlet and outlet hoses at the core connections (see “Heater Hoses—Replacement” later in this section). Quickly plug the heater hoses and support them in a raised position. Allow the coolant in the heater core to drain into the pan on the floor. 3. Disconnect the right hand air distributor hose from the heater case and rotate it up out of the way. Fig. 3—Blower Motor Assembly BLOWER WHEELHEATER HOSES Heater hoses are routed from the water pump and thermostat housing to the core inlet and outlet pipes as shown in Figure 5. Hoses are attached at each end with screw type clamps. Replacement The heater core can be easily damaged in the area of the core tube attachment seams whenever undue force is exerted on them. Whenever the heater core hoses do not readily come off the tubes, the hoses should be cut just forward of the core tubes. The portion of the hose remaining on the core tube should then be split longitudinally. Once the hoses have been split, they can be removed from the tubes without damage to the core. Fig. 4—Heater Core Case and Core 4. Pry off the temperature door cable eyelet clip and then remove the bowden cable attaching screw. 5. Remove the distributor duct to heater case screws and pull the duct rearward out of the heater case retainer. 6. Remove the four heater case to dash screws and then remove the heater case and core as an assembly. Tilt the case assembly rearward at the top while lifting up until the core tubes clear the dash openings. 7. Remove the core retaining strap screws and remove the core. 8. To install a new core, reverse Steps I -7 above. CENTER DISTRIBUTOR DUCT Replacement (Fig. 6.) 1. Disconnect the battery ground cable. 2. Unsnap the engine cover front latches. Remove the two cover to lloorpan screws and remove the cover. 3. Remove the heater core case and core as an assembly (see “Heater Core Case and Core Replacement”). 4. Disconnect the right hand heater outlet hose and the two defroster hoses from the distributor duct. 5. Disconnect the air and defroster door cables by prying off the eyelet clips and removing the cable attaching screws.LEFT DISTRIBUTOR DUCT HEATER CORE CASE Fig. 6—Distributor Ducts 6. Pull the center distributor duct to the right and remove it from the vehicle. 7. To install, reverse Steps I -6 above. NOTE: Check cable and door operation; cables should be free from kinks or binding and doors should close properly. If cable adjustment is necessary, see "Bowden Cable—Adjustment." LEFT DISTRIBUTOR DUCT Replacement (Fig. 6) 1. Disconnect the battery ground cable. 2. Unsnap the engine cover front latches. Remove the two cover to lloorpan screws and remove the cover. 3. Remove the duct bracket screw and remove the duct. 4. To install, reverse Steps 1-3. NOTE: All three bowden cables are routed under the duct. It may be necessary to hold the cables down as the duct is being installed. Be sure the left duct is fully installed over the center duct. DEFROSTER OUTLETS AND HOSES Replacement (Fig. 7) 1. Disconnect the battery ground cable. 2. Unsnap the engine cover front latches. Remove the two cover to floorpan screws and remove the cover. 3. Disconnect the defroster hose at both the center distributor duct and instrument panel outlet and remove the hose. 4. If the instrument panel outlets must be removed, reach under the instrument panel and squeeze the outlet tabs inward while pushing up. Remove the outlets from the instrument panel. 5. If the outlets were removed, snap them in position in the instrument panel. 6. Reinstall the defroster hoses following Steps 1-3 in reverse order.?>—RADIO " SPEAKER DEFROSTER CABLE DEFROSTER CABLE AIR CABLE TEMP CABLE AIR CABLE WITHOUT RADIO VIEW A CAUTION: Care should be taken to prevent kinking the bowden cables while lowering the control. 4. Disconnect the three bowden cables, the control illumination bulb, and remove the control from the vehicle. 5. Remove the blower switch screws and remove the blower switch. 6. To install, reverse Steps 1-5 above. NOTE: Be sure to reinstall all ground wires when reinstalling the control to I.P. lower mounting screw. CONTROL CABLES Replacement (Fig. 9) 1. Disconnect the battery ground cable. 2. Unsnap the engine cover front latches. Remove the two cover to floorpan screws and remove the cover. 3. Remove the left distributor duct attaching screw and remove the duct. 4. Defroster Cable Only—Remove the radio speaker bracket to dash panel (2) screws. 5. Pry off the cable eyelet clip at both the door and control lever. Remove the cable attaching screw at both door and control locations. 6. Attach a 4’ piece of wire to the door end of the cable. Place protective tape around the cable mounting tab and attached wire and carefully pull the cable from the vehicle. Remove the tape and disconnect the 4’ piece of wire. NOTE: On defroster cables, pull rearward slightly on the radio speaker bracket to get clearance for cable removal. Fig. 8-Control Assembly CONTROL ASSEMBLY Replacement (Fig. 8) 1. Disconnect the battery ground cable. 2. Disconnect the blower switch wiring harness connector at the lower side of the control. 3. Remove the two control to instrument panel mounting screws and carefully lower the control far enough to gain access to the bowden cable attachments. # EFROST WITH RADIO AIR CABLE TEMP CABLE7. To install, attach the new cable to the 4’ piece of wire. Tape the mounting tab and attached wire. Carefully pull the new cable into position. 8. Reverse Steps 1-5. NOTE: If cable adjustment is required, see below. Adjustment 1. Disconnect the battery ground cable. 2. Air and Defroster Door Cables—Unsnap the engine cover front latches. Remove the two cover to floorpan screws and remove the engine cover. 3. Pry off the appropriate cable eyelet clip and disconnect the cable from the door. 4. Remove the cable retaining screw. 5. While holding the cable with pliers, rotate the mounting tab on the cable to lengthen or shorten the cable, whichever is required. NOTE: Do not pinch the cable too tightly or damage to the cable could result. 6. Install the cable, reversing Steps 1 -4. BLOWER SWITCH Replacement (Fig. 8) 1. Disconnect the battery ground cable. 2. Disconnect the blower switch wiring harness connector at the switch. 3. Remove the two switch attaching screws and remove the switch assembly. 4. To install a new switch, reverse Steps 1-3 above. NOTE: Make certain the switch arm bushing is in place and that the arm and bushing engage the slotted opening in the AIR-FAN lever when installing the switch. RESISTOR Repacement (Fig. 10) 1. Disconnect the wiring harness at the resistor connector. 2. Remove the two resistor to dash mounting screws and remove the resistor. 3. To install a new resistor, reverse Steps 1 and 2 above. * AUXILIARY HEATER INDEX Page Pa8e General Description............................ 1 A-6 Component Replacement and Repairs..............1A-7 Controls...................................1 A-6 GENERAL DESCRIPTION An auxiliary heater is available as a dealer installed accessory to provide additional heating capacity for the rearmost extremities of the Chevy Van and Sportvan models. This unit operates entirely independent of the standard heater and is regulated through its own controls at the instrument panel. This system consists of a separate core and fan unit mounted either under the second seat or at the left side of the vehicle (Fig. 11). Heater hoses extend from the unit to the front of the vehicle where they are connected to the standard heater hoses with “tees”. An “on-off’ water valve is installed in the heater core inlet line in the engine compartment. This valve must be operated manually-“on” for cold weather, “off’ in warm weather. The purpose of the valve is to cut off coolant flow to the auxiliary core during warm weather and eliminate the radiant heat that would result. CONTROLS Two methods of control are employed with this system: Water Valve (Fig. 12) When heat is desired, the water valve must be in the “on” position (valve located in the engine compartment in the core inlet line). During the summer months, this valve should be placed in the “off’ position.AUXILIARY HEATER (110" W.B. WITH REAR SEATS) CONTROL SWITCH Fig. 11—Auxiliary Heater Installations EXISTING HEATER WATER VALVE AUXILIARY HEATER (110" W.B. WITHOUT REAR SEATS) (ALL 125" W.B. MODELS) Fan Switch (Fig. 13) The two speed (HI-LOW) fan switch is located below the half-way places the fan on “HI”; at the full out position, the left side of the instrument cluster. Pulling the switch knob out fan is on “LOW”. COMPONENT REPLACEMENT AND REPAIRS Since a detailed list of installation instructions is included with the auxiliary heater unit, replacement procedures will not be repeated in this section. CAUTION: All Models—When replacing heater hoses, maintain a 1/2" minimum clearance between the hose clip and left upper control arm. 110" Wheelbase Models With Rear Seats—Observe the minimum clearances and hose routings as shown in Figure 14.Fig. 12—Auxiliary Heater Water Valve Fig. 14—Auxiliary Heater Hose Routing (110" W.B. Models with Rear Seats) &AIR CONDITIONING INDEX Page General Description ..........................1A- 9 Chevrolet System C-62 .....................1 A- 9 Roof-Mounted System C-63 1A- 9 General Information Precautions in Handling Refrigerant-12 1A-12 Precautions in Handling Refrigerant Lines 1A-12 Maintaining Chemical Stability in the Refrigeration System 1A-13 J-8393 Charging Station 1A-13 Gauge Set ................................1A-14 Vacuum Pump ............................1A-14 Leak Testing the System ...................1A-15 Availability of Refrigerant-12 ................1A-15 Compressor Oil 1A-16 Compressor Serial Number..................1A-16 Inspection and Periodic Service ...............1A-16 Pre-Delivery Inspection .....................1A-16 6000 Mile Inspection 1A-16 Periodic Service ...........................1A-16 Evacuating and Charging Procedures 1A-17 Air Conditioning System Capacity ..........1A-17 Installing Charging Station to Check System Operation .......................... 1A-17 Purging the System .....................1A-17 Evacuating and Charging the System......1A-18 Performance Test 1A-19 Performance Data ......................1A-19 Refrigerant Quick-Check Procedure 1A-20 Checking Oil............................1A-20 Page Maintenance and Adjustments..................1A-21 Thermostatic Switch........................1A-21 Expansion Valve ..........................1A-21 Component Replacement and Minor Repairs .....1A-22 Preparing System for Replacement of Component Parts ........................1 A-22 Foreign Material in the System ..............1A-22 Refrigerant Line Connections ................1A-22 Repair of Refrigerant Leaks .................1A-23 Refrigerant Hose Failure....................1A-24 Compressor ...............................1A-24 Condenser ................................1A-25 Receiver-Dehydrator .......................1 A-25 Sight Glass Replacement ....................1A-26 Front Air Distributor Duct ..................1A-26 Front Blower-Evaporator Cover ..............1A-26 Front Blower-Evaporator Assembly ...........1A-27 Front Expansion Valve and'or Evaporator Core. 1A-27 Blower Motor—Front ......................1A-27 Electrical Components ......................1A-27 Rear Blower Relay .......................1A-28 Fuse ....................................1A-28 Front and Intermediate Ducts................1A-28 Rear Duct................................1A-28 Blower Motor Assemblies (C-63) ............1A-29 Expansion Valves (C-63) ..................1A-29 Evaporator Core (C-63) ....................1A-30 Wiring Diagrams ............................1A-32 Special Tools ..............................1A-34 GENERAL DESCRIPTION The C-62 and C-63 air conditioning systems are available for Chevy Van and Sportvan vehicles. The C-62 system (Fig. 1 5) is a front floor mounted unit and the C-63 (Fig. 16) is a rear overhead unit. The C-62 is available alone or with C-63 rear unit, however, the C-63 is not available without C-62. Fig. 16—Sportvan C-63 Interior Components The systems perform only the cooling functions and when heating above ambient temperatures is desired, the standard equipment heater should be used. When air conditioning is desired, be sure the heater is completely shut off.Fig. 17—C-62 and C-63 Control Panel A self-contained unit, the factory installed C-62 or C-63 System operates on recirculated air only. Recirculated inside air is drawn into the unit, passed through the evaporator core and into the vehicle through the adjustable outlets in the ducts. CONTROLS (Fig. 17) The controls for the C-62 system consist of a temperature knob and a blower speed lever. The controls for the C-62 & C-63 system are the same as C-62 except for a separate blower speed lever for the rear (C-63) unit. Temperature Knob This knob may be regulated to control the degree of cooling desired. Fully clockwise at CITY provides maximum cooling; however, turning the knob to HIWAY provides adequate cooling for highway operation. Both units use a thermostatic switch instead of an evaporator control valve (POA) to control the outlet air temperature. NOTE: Reduced cooling and freezing of the evaporator could be encountered when operating at highway speeds with the controls at the “CITY” setting. To Operate Front Air Conditioning Unit: Turn temperature control knob to “HIWAY” or “CITY”. C-62 EVAPORATOR OUTLET HOSE EVAPORATOR DRAIN HOSE “TEE” CONNECTIONS AT C-62 LINES VIEW A C-62 AND C-63 EVAPORATOR INLET HOSE OUTLET HOSE EVAPORATOR INLET HOSEMove “AIR” lever (FRONT) to “L’\ "M” or “II” position. Turn “TEMP” knob toward WARM (Counterclockwise) to satisfy your comfort requirement. To Operate Rear Air Conditioning Unit: Operate front unit as above and move “AIR" lever (REAR) to “L”, “M”, or “H” position. Rear unit will not operate unless front unit is operating. SYSTEM COMPONENTS Both units make use of the same six cylinder reciprocating compressor of 12.6 cu. in. displacement. The compressor is identical to that used for the Four-Season system on all other trucks. It is mounted to the engine and driven by a belt from the crankshaft, using an idler pulley for belt tension adjustment. The condenser is mounted in front of the engine cooling radiator and the receiver-dehydrator is mounted on the right side of the condenser. The receiver-dehydrator and condenser are .identical, with either C-62 or C-62 & C-63 systems. The evaporator and blower assembly for the C-62 system is mounted between the two front seats under a “NORYL” cover. This cover incorporates the control panel for either the C-62 or the C-62 and C-63 systems. The evaporator, expansion valve, blower motor, resistors, switches, and relay assemblies are mounted underneath the cover. The front distributor duct is located between the blower and evaporator assembly and the engine cover. There are six outlets from this duct assembly, two tloor coolers and four upper level multidirectional coolers for the driver’s side and passenger side of the front seat area (Fig. 15). The roof-mounted system incorporates a blower evaporator unit which is mounted to the inner roof panel at the rear of the vehicle. On the Sportvan. an overhead central air distributor duct, which contains adjustable outlets, extends forward from the blower-evaporator unit (Fig. 16). The C-62 refrigerant lines are routed from the engine compartment along the right frame rail and then to the evaporator unit. When the ('-63 system is added, refrigerant lines “tec” into the C-62 lines at the evaporator and are then routed across to the left frame rail, between the body inner and outer body side panels, and then up the left rear roof pillar (Fig. 18). The rear system differs from the front system in that refrigerant How is split between two expansion valves and follows separate piping through the evaporator core before (lowing back into one line after leaving the core.GENERAL INFORMATION In any vocation or trade, there are established procedures and practices that have been developed after many years of experience. In addition, occupation hazards may be present that require the observation of certain precautions or use of special tools and equipment. Observing the procedures, practices and precautions of servicing refrigeration equipment will greatly reduce the possibilities of damage to the customers’ equipment as well as virtually eliminate the element of hazard to the serviceman. PRECAUTIONS IN HANDLING REFRIGERANT-12 Refrigerant—12 is transparent and colorless in both the gaseous and liquid state. It has a boiling point of 21,7°F below zero and, therefore, at all normal temperatures and pressures it will be a vapor. The vapor is heavier than air and is non-inflammable, nonexplosive, nonpoisonous (except when in contact with an open flame) and noncorrosive (except when in contact with water). WARNING: The following precautions in handling R-12 should be observed at all times. • If it is ever necessary to transport or carry a cylinder or can of refrigerant in a car, keep it in the luggage compartment. Refrigerant should not be exposed to the radiant heat from the sun since the resulting increase in pressure may cause the safety valve to release or the cylinder or can to burst. • Cylinders or disposable cans should never be subjected to high temperature when adding refrigerant to the system. In most instances, heating the cylinder or can is required to raise the pressure in the container higher than the pressure in the system during the operation. It would be unwise to place the cylinder on a gas stove, radiator or use a blow torch while preparing for the charging operation, since a serious accident could result. Don’t depend on the safety valve — many cylinders have burst when the safety valve failed. Remember, high pressure means that great forces are being exerted against the walls of the container. A bucket of warm water, not over 125°F, or warm wet rags around the container is all the heat that is required. • Do not weld or steam clean on or near the system. Welding or steam cleaning can result in a dangerous pressure buildup in the system. • Discharging large quantities of R-12 into a room can usually be done safely as the vapor would produce no ill effects; however, in the event of an accidental rapid discharge of the system, it is recommended that inhalation of large quantities of R-12 be avoided. This caution is especially important if the area contains a flame producing device such as a gas heater. While R-12 normally is nonpoisonous, heavy concentrations of it in contact with a live flame will produce a toxic gas. The same gas will also attack all bright metal surfaces. • Protection of the eyes is of vital importance! When working around a refrigerating system, an accident may cause liquid refrigerant to hit the face. If the eyes are protected with goggles or glasses, no serious damage can result. Just remember, any R-12 liquid that you can touch or that touches you is at least 21,7UF, below zero. If a R-12 liquid should strike the eyes, here is what to do: 1. Keep calm. 2. Do not rub the eyes! Splash the affected area with quantities of cold water to gradually get the temperature above the freezing point. The use of mineral, cod liver or an antiseptic oil is important in providing a protective film to reduce the possibility of infection. 3. As soon as possible, call or consult an eye specialist for immediate and future treatment. PRECAUTIONS IN HANDLING REFRIGERANT LINES CAUTION: The following precautions should be observed when handling refrigerant lines: • All metal tubing lines should be free of kinks, because of the restriction that kinks will offer to the flow of refrigerant. The refrigeration capacity of the entire system can be greatly reduced by a single kink. • The flexible hose lines should never be bent to a radius of less than 10 times the diameter of the hose. • The flexible hose lines should never be allowed to come within a distance of 2-1/2” of the exhaust manifold. • Flexible hose lines should be inspected at least once a year for leaks or brittleness. If found brittle or leaking they should be replaced with new lines. • Use only new lines that have been sealed during storing. • When disconnecting any fitting in the refrigeration system, the system must first be discharged of all refrigerant. However, proceed very cautiously regardlessof gauge readings. Open very slowly, keeping face and hands away so that no injury can occur if there happens to be liquid refrigerant in the line. If pressure is noticed when fitting is loosened, allow it to bleed off as described under “Purging the System” in this section. WARNING: Always wear safety goggles when opening refrigerant lines. • In the event any line is opened to atmosphere, it should be immediately capped to prevent entrance of moisture and dirt. • The use of the proper wrenches when making connections on “0” ring fittings is important. The use of improper wrenches may damage the connection. The opposing fitting should always be backed up with a wrench to prevent distortion of connecting lines or components. When connecting the flexible hose connections it is important that the swaged fitting and flare nut. as well as the coupling to which it is attached, be held at the same time using three different wrenches to prevent turning the fitting and damaging the ground seat. • “O” rings and seats must be in perfect condition. The slightest burr or piece of dirt may cause a leak. • Sealing beads on hose clamp connections must be free of nicks and scratches to assure a perfect seal. MAINTAINING CHEMICAL STABILITY IN THE REFRIGERATION SYSTEM The metal internal parts of the refrigeration system and the refrigerant and oil contained in the system are designed to remain in a state of chemical stability as long as pure R-12 and uncontaminated refrigeration oil is used in the system. However, when abnormal amounts of foreign materials, such as dirt, air or moisture are allowed to enter the system, the chemical stability may be upset. When accelerated by heat, these contaminants may form acids and sludge and eventually cause the breakdown of components within the system. In addition, contaminants may effect the temperature- pressure relationship of R-12, resulting in improper operating temperature and pressures and decreased efficiency of the system. CAUTION: The following general practices should be observed to insure chemical stability in the system. • Whenever it becomes necessary to disconnect a refrigerant or gauge line, it should be immediately capped. Capping the tubing will also prevent dirt and foreign matter from entering. • Tools should be kept clean and dry. This also includes the gauge set and replacement parts. • When adding oil, the container should be exceptionally clean and dry due to the fact that the refrigeration oil in the container is as moisture-free as it is possible to make it. Therefore, it will quickly absorb any moisture with which it comes in contact. For this same reason the oil container should be capped immediately after use. • When it is necessary to open a system, have everything you will need ready and handy so that as little time as possible will be required to perform the operation. Don’t leave the system open any longer than is necessary. • Finally, after the operation has been completed and the system sealed again, air and moisture should be evacuated from the system before recharging. J-8393 CHARGING STATION The J-8393 Charging Station is a portable assembly of a vacuum pump, refrigerant supply, gauges, valves, and most important, a five (5) pound metering refrigerant charging cylinder. The use of a charging cylinder eliminates the need for scales, hot water pails, etc. The chief advantage of this unit is savings. A very definite savings in refrigerant and time can be obtained by using this unit. Since the refrigerant is metered into the system by volume, the correct amount may be added to the system. This, coupled with the fact that the unit remains “plumbed” at all times and thus eliminates loss of refrigerant in purging of lines and hooking-up, combines to enable the operator to get full use of all refrigerant purchased. All evacuation and charging equipment is hooked together in a compact portable unit (fig. 20). It brings air conditioning service down to the basic problem of hooking on two hoses, and manipulating clearly labeled valves. This will tend to insure that the job will be done without skipping operations. As a result, you can expect to save time and get higher quality work, less chance of an over or undercharge, or comeback. The pump mount is such that the dealer may use his own vacuum pump. The gauges and manifold are in common use. Thus a current air conditioning dealer can use the equipment on hand and avoid duplication. LOW PRESSURE CONTROL (I' c HIGH PRESSURE CONTROL (2) LOW PRESSURE GAUGE LINE HIGH PRESSURE GAUGE LINE 5 LB CHARGING ' CYLINDER FREON DRUM - CONTROL VALVE Fig. 20—J-8393 Charging StationGAUGE SET The gauge set (fig. 21) is an integral part of the J-8393 Charging Station. Is it used when purging, evacuating, charging or diagnosing trouble in the system. The gauge at the left is known as the low pressure gauge. The face is graduated into pounds of pressure and, in the opposite direction, in inches of vacuum. This is the gauge that should always be used in checking pressures on the low pressure side of the system. When all parts of the system are functioning properly the refrigerant pressure on the low pressure side never falls below 0 pounds pressure. However, several abnormal conditions can occur that will cause the low pressure to fall into a partial vacuum. Therefore, a low pressure gauge is required. The high pressure gauge is used for checking pressures on the high pressure side of the system. The hand shutoff valves on the gauge manifold do not control the opening or closing off of pressure to the gauges. They merely close each opening to the center connector and to each other. During most diagnosing and service operations, the valves must be closed. Both valves will be open at the same time during purging, evacuating and charging operations. The charging station provides two flexible lines for connecting the gauge set to the system components. VACUUM PUMP A vacuum pump should be used for evacuating air and moisture from the air conditioning system. The vacuum pump (fig. 22) is a component part of Charging Station J-8393, described previously. CAUTION: The following precautions should be observed relative to the operation and maintenance of this pump. • Make sure dust cap on discharge outlet of vacuum pump is removed before operating. • Keep all openings capped when not in use to avoid moisture being drawn into the system. CORD TO PUMP PUMP DISCHARGE 110 AC SOURCE INLET OUTLET Fig. 22—Vacuum Pump • Oil should be changed after every 250 hours of normal operation. To change oil, simply unscrew hex nut located on back side of pump, tilt backward and drain out oil (fig. 22). Recharge with 8 ounces of vacuum pump oil, Frigidaire 150 or equivalent (fig. 22). If you desire to flush out the pump, use the same type clean oil. Do not use solvent. NOTE: Improper lubrication will shorten pump life. • If this pump is subjected to extreme or prolonged cold, allow it to remain indoors until oil has reached approximate room temperature. Failure to warm oil will result in a blown fuse• A five ampere time delay cartidge fuse has been installed in the common line to protect the windings of the compressor. The fuse will blow if an excessive load is placed on the pump. In the event the fuse is blown, replace with a five ampere time delay fuse — do not use a substitute fuse as it will result in damage to the starting windings. • If the pump is being utilized to evacuate a burnt-out system, a filter must be connected to the intake fitting to prevent any sludge from contaminating the working parts, which will result in malfunction of the pump. • Do not use the vacuum pump as an air compressor. LEAK TESTING THE SYSTEM Whenever a refrigerant leak is suspected in the system or a service operation performed which results in disturbing lines or connections, it is advisable to test for leaks. Common sense should be the governing factor in performing any leak test, since the necessity and extent of any such test will, in general, depend upon the nature of the complaint and the type of service performed on the system. CAUTION: The use of a leak detecting dye within the system is not recommended because of the following reasons: 1. Refrigerant leakage can exist without any oil leakage. In this case the dye will not indicate the leak, however, a torch detector will. 2. The addition of additives, other than inhibitors, may alter the stability of the refrigeration system and cause malfunctions. 3. Dye type leak detectors, which are insoluble, form a curdle which can block the inlet screen of the expansion valve. Leak Detector Tool J-6084 (fig. 23) is a propane gas-burning torch which is used to locate a leak in any part of the system. Refrigerant gas drawn into the sampling tube attached to the torch will cause the torch ilame to change color in proportion to the size of the leak. Propane gas fuel cylinders used with the torch are readily available commercially throughout the country. WARNING: Do not use lighted detector in any place where combustible or explosive gases, dusts or vapors may be present. Operating Detector 1. Determine if there is sufficient refrigerant in the system for leak testing. 2. Open control valve only until a low hiss of gas is heard, then light gas at opening in chimmey. 3. Adjust flame until desired volume is obtained. This is most satisfactory when blue flame is approximately 3/8” above reactor plate. The reactor plate will quickly heat to a cherry red. 4. Explore for leaks by moving the end of the sampling hose around possible leak points in the system. Do not pinch or kink hose. Fig. 23—Leak Detector NOTE: Since R-12 is heavier than air, it is good practice to place open end of sampling tube immediately below point being tested, particularly in cases of small leaks. WARNING: Do not breathe the fumes that are produced by the burning R-12 gas in the detector flame, since such fumes can be toxic in large concentrations of R-12. 5. Watch for color changes. The color of the flame which passes through the reaction plate will change to green or yellow-green when sampling hose draws in very small leaks of R-12. Large leaks will be indicated by a change in color to a brilliant blue or purple. When the sampling hose passes the leak, the flame will clear to an almost colorless pale blue again. Observations are best made in a semi-darkened area. If the flame remains yellow when unit is removed from leak, insufficient air is being drawn in or the reactor plate is dirty. NOTE: A refrigerant leak in the high pressure side of the system may be more easily detected if the system is operated for a few minutes, then shut off and checked immediately (before system pressures equalize). A leak on the low pressure side may be more easily detected after the engine has been shut off for several minutes (system pressures equalized); this applies particularly to the front seal. AVAILABILITY OF REFRIGERANT-12 Refrigerant l 2 is available in 30 lb. and in 15 oz. disposable containers.Normally, air conditioning systems are charged making use of the J-8393 Charging Station which uses the 30 lb-container. Evacuating and Charging Procedures are noted later in this section. The 15 oz. disposable cans are generally used for miscellaneous operations such as flushing. COMPRESSOR OIL Special refrigeration lubricant should be used in the system. This oil is as free from moisture and contaminants as it is possible to attain by human processes. This condition should be preserved by immediately capping the bottle when not in See “Air Conditioning System Capacities’ system oil capacity. for the total Due to the porosity of the refrigerant hoses and connections, the system refrigerant level will show a definite drop after a period of time. Since the compressor oil is carried throughout the entire system mixed with the refrigerant, a low refrigerant level will cause a dangerous lack of lubrication. Therefore the refrigerant charge in the system has a definite tie-in with the amount of oil found in the compressor and an insufficient charge may eventually lead to an oil build-up in the evaporator. COMPRESSOR SERIAL NUMBER The compressor serial number is located on the serial number plate on top of the compressor. The serial number consists of a series of numbers and letters. This serial number should be referenced on all forms and correspondence related to the servicing of this part. INSPECTION AND PERIODIC SERVICE PRE DELIVERY INSPECTION 1. Check that engine exhaust is suitably ventilated. 2. Check the belt for proper tension. 3. With controls positioned for operation of the system, operate the unit for ten minutes at approximately 2000 rpm. Observe the clutch pulley bolt to see that the compressor is operating at the same speed as the clutch pulley. Any speed variation indicates clutch slippage. 4. Before turning off the engine, check the sight glass to see that the unit has a sufficient Refrigerant charge. The glass should be clear, although during milder weather it may show traces of bubbles. Foam in the flow indicates a low charge. No liquid visible and no temperature differential between compressor inlet and outlet lines, indicates no charge. 5. Check refrigerant hose connections: "O" ring Connections — Check torque of fittings as charted later in this section under “Refrigerant Line Connections;” retorque if required. Leak test the complete system. Hose Clamp Connections — If clamp screw torque is less than 10 in. lbs., retighten to 20-25 in. lbs. Do not tighten to new hose specifications or hose leakage may occur. Leak test the complete system. 6. If there is evidence of an oil leak, check the compressor to see that the oil charge is satisfactory. NOTE: A slight amount of oil leakage at the compressor front seal is considered normal. 7. Check the system controls for proper operation. 6000 MILE INSPECTION 1. Check unit for any indication of a refrigerant leak. 2. If there is an indication of an oil leak, check the compressor for proper oil charge. NOTE: A slight amount of oil leakage at the compressor front seal is considered normal. 3. Check sight glass for proper charge of Refrigerant-12. 4. Tighten the compressor brace and support bolts and check the belt tension. 5. Check refrigerant hose connections as in Step 5 of “Pre-Delivery Inspection.” PERIODIC SERVICE • Inspect condenser regularly to be sure that the fins are not plugged with leaves or other foreign material. • Check evaporator drain tubes regularly for dirt or restrictions. • At least once a year, check the system for proper refrigerant charge and the flexible hoses for brittleness, wear or leaks. • Every 6000 miles check sight glass for low refrigerant level. • Check belt tension regularly.EVACUATING AND CHARGING PROCEDURES AIR CONDITIONING SYSTEM CAPACITY Refrigerant Charge Oil Charge C62 3 lbs. 4 oz. 10 oz. C62& C63 5 lbs. 4 oz. 10 oz. INSTALLING CHARGING STATION TO CHECK SYSTEM OPERATION 1. The low pressure fitting is located on the connector block (compressor inlet line) and the high pressure fitting on the muffler (Fig. 24). 2. Install Gauge Adapters J-5420 and J-9459 onto the high and low pressure gauge lines of the Charging Station. 3. With the engine stopped, remove the caps from the cored valve gauge fittings. 4. Be certain all valves on Charging Station are closed. 5. Connect high pressure gauge line to high pressure gauge fitting. 6. See Figure 21. Turn high pressure control (2) one turn counterclockwise (open). Crack open low pressure control (1) and allow refrigerant gas to hiss from low pressure gauge line for three seconds, then connect low pressure gauge line to low pressure gauge fitting. 7. System is now ready for purging or performance testing. PURGING THE SYSTEM In replacing any of the air conditioning components the system must be completely purged or drained of refrigerant. The purpose is to lower the pressure inside the system so that a component part can be safely removed. 1. With engine stopped, install high and low pressure lines of Charging Station gauge set to the proper high and low pressure gauge fittings. (See “Installing Charging Station to Check System Operation.”) CAUTION: Before installing lines, be sure that all four controls on the gauge set are closed. 2. Disconnect vacuum line at Charging Station vacuum pump and put the line in a covered can as shown in Figure 25. NOTE: An empty 3 lb. coffee can with a plastic cover which has been cross-slit (Xed), to allow hose entry, works well for this purpose. 3. Fully open high (2) and low (1) pressure control valves, and allow refrigerant to purge from system at a rapid rate into the covered can. 4. Oil loss will be minimal. It may be added to the system during evacuation as described later. 5. Toward the end of the purge stage, Tool J-24095 should be flushed with refrigerant to eliminate possible contamination. a. Disconnect refrigerant line at supply tank. b. Flush Tool J-24095 by cracking open valve on refrigerant tank. After flushing for approximately three seconds, close valve. c. Temporarily refasten the tool. d. Reconnect refrigerant line to supply tank. COMPRESSOR LOW PRESSURE GAUGEW HIGH PRESSURE GAUGE .CONNECTOR BLOCK CHARGING STATION CONTROLSEVACUATING AND CHARGING THE SYSTEM GENERAL NOTE: In all evacuating procedures shown below, the specification of 28-29 inches of Mercury vacuum is used. These figures are only attainable at or near Sea Level Elevation. For each 1000 feet above sea level where this operation is being performed, the specifications should be lowered by 1 inch. Example: at 5000 ft. elevation, only 23 to 24 inches of vacuum can normally be obtained. Whenever the air conditioning system is open for any reason, it should not be put into operation again until it has been evacuated to remove air and moisture which may have entered the system. The following procedures are based on the use of the J-8393 Charging Station. Adding Oil If necessary, refrigeration oil may be added to the system by the following method: 1. Install Charging Station and purge system as previously described. 2. After system has been purged, connect the vacuum line to the vacuum pump. 3. Measure oil loss collected as a result of purging the system. a. Disconnect low pressure line at fitting. Install Tool J-24095 (with valve closed) onto low pressure line fitting. Insert pick-up tube into graduated container of clean refrigeration oil (Fig. 26). NOTE: Tool J-24095 will hold 1/2 of an ounce of oil in the tool itself. So if 1 oz. has to be added, the level of the oil in the bottle should decrease 1-1/2 ounces to add 1 oz. to the system. CAUTION: When removing the gauge lines from the fittings, be sure to remove the adapters from the system fittings rather than the gauge lines from the adapter. b. Turn on vacuum pump, and open vacuum control valve (slowly open high pressure side of manifold gauge set to avoid forcing oil out of refrigerant system and pump). NOTE: When valve on tool J-24095 is opened, the vacuum applied to the discharge side of the system will suck oil into system from container. Therefore, close observation of oil level in the container is necessary. c. Note level of oil in container. Open valve on oil adding tool until oil level in container is reduced by an amount equal to that lost during discharge of system + 1/2 ounce, then close valve. Take care not to add more oil than was lost. d. Disconnect and cap tool J-24095 and reinstall low pressure line from -Charging Station to the low pressure fitting. Open low pressure valve (1). Evacuation After oil has been added to the system (as outlined above), run pump until 28-29 inches vacuum is obtained (See General Note under “Evacuating and Charging the System”). Continue to run pump for 10 minutes after the system reaches 28-29 inches vacuum. NOTE: If 28-29 inches cannot be obtained, close Vacuum Control Valve (3) and shut off vacuum pump. Open Refrigerant Control Valve (4) and allow 1/2 pound of R-12 to enter system. Locate and repair all leaks. Purge this 1/2 pound and re-evacuate for 10 minutes. 1. During the ten minute evacuation period, prepare for charging the system by filling the charging cylinder as follows: a. Open valve on bottom of charging cylinder allowing refrigerant to enter cylinder. NOTE: It will be necessary to close bleed valve periodically to allow boiling to subside to check level in the sight glass of Charging Station cylinder. b. Bleed cylinder valve on top (behind control panel) as required to allow refrigerant to enter. When refrigerant reaches desired level (see “System Capacities”), close valve at bottom of cylinder and be certain bleed valve is closed securely. 2. Continue to evacuate for remainder of 10 minute period. 3. Turn hand shut-off valves at low and high pressure gauges of gauge set to full clockwise position with vacuum pump operating, then stop pump. Carefully check low pressure gauge for approximately two minutes to see that vacuum remains constant. If vacuum reduces, it indicates a leak in the system or gauge connections; locate and repair all leaks. J-24095 TO LOW PRESSURE FITTING CHARGING STATION HIGH PRESSURE LINE TO HIGH PRESSURE FITTING REFRIGERANT OILCharging the System 1. Only after evacuating as above, is system ready for charging. Note reading on sight glass of charging cylinder. If it does not contain a sufficient amount of refrigerant for a full charge, fill to the proper level. 2. With High and Low Pressure Valves (1 and 2) open, close Vacuum Control Valve (3), turn off vacuum pump, open Refrigerant Control Valve (4) and allow refrigerant to enter system. NOTE: If the charge will not transfer completely from the station to the system, close the high pressure valve at the gauge set, set the air conditioning controls for cooling, check that the engine compartment is free from obstructions and start the engine. Compressor operation will decrease low side pressure in the system. System is now charged and should be checked as outlined below: Checking System Operation 1. Operate system for a few minutes at maximum cooling, high blower speed and with engine operating at 2000 RPM (exhaust should be vented if inside). 2. When system is stabilized, the pressure gauges on the Charging Station should read pressures corresponding to valves listed under PERFORMANCE DATA. 3. When correct system pressures are observed, check sight glass to ensure that sight glass is clear (no foam or bubbles can be observed). 4. Feel outlet air distribution to ensure that cold air is being distributed. 5. Disconnect gauge lines and cap fittings. CAUTION: When removing gauge lines from fittings, be sure to remove the adapters from the fittings rather than the gauge lines from the adapters. PERFORMANCE TEST Under normal circumstances, it will not be necessary to Performance Test a system as outlined below; however, in certain instances, the following procedure may be advantageous in diagnosing system malfunction. The following fixed conditions must be adhered to in order to make it possible to compare the performance of the system being tested with the standards below: 1. Doors and windows closed. (Vehicle inside or in shade.) 2. Hood up and engine exhaust suitably ventilated. 3. Vehicle in NEUTRAL with engine running at 2000 rpm. 4. Air Conditioning controls set for — • Maximum cooling. • High blower speed. NOTE: When running a Performance Test on a C-62 and C-63 equipped vehicle, both systems should be in operation. 5. Gauge set installed. 6. System settled out (run-in approximately 10 minutes). 7. A thermometer placed in front of vehicle grille and another at the C-62 right front upper outlet. NOTE: Higher temperatures and pressures will occur at higher ambient temperatures. In areas of high humidity it is possible to have thermometer and gauge readings approach but not reach the figures listed in the performance tables and still have a satisfactorily operating unit. However, it is important to remember that low pressure has a direct relationship to nozzle outlet temperature. If pressure is too low, ice will gradually form on the evaporator fins, restricting airflow into the passenger area and resulting in insufficient or no cooling. PERFORMANCE DATA The following Performance Data define normal operation of the system under the above conditions. Relative humidity does not appear in the tables because after running the prescribed length of time on recirculated air and maximum cooling, the relative humidity of the air passing over the evaporator core will remain at approximately 35% to 40% regardless of the ambient temperature or humidity. Should excessive head pressures be encountered at higher ambient temperatures, an 18” fan placed in front of the vehicle and blowing into the condenser will provide the extra circulation of air needed to bring the pressures to within the limits specified. C-62 SYSTEM Refrigerant Charge = 3 Lbs.—4 Ozs. Temperature of Air Entering the 70° 80° 90° 100° 110 120 Condenser Engine R.P.M. 2000 Compressor Head nO- ISO- 160- ISO- 205- 240- Pressure* P.S.I.G. 145 165 175 195 220 255 Suction Pressure* 8- 8- 8- 8- 11- 12- P.S.I.G. 10 10 10 10 14 15 Discharge Air Temp.* (a) 41- 41- 42- 45- 50- 55- Upper right Outlet 44 44 45 48 53 58 C-62 & C-63 SYSTEM Refrigerant Charge = 5 Lbs.—4 Ozs. Temperature of Air Entering 70° 80° 90° 100° 110° 120° the Condenser Engine R.P.M. 2000 Compressor Head 165- 175- HO- 230- 265- 305- Pressure* P.S.I.G. 180 190 225 245 280 320 Suction Pressure* 12- 14- 16- 20- 26- 31- P.S.I.G. 15 17 19 23 29 34 Discharge Air Temp. *@ 40- 41- 45- 52- 60- 65- Front C-62 Outlet 43 44 48 55 63 68 ♦When compressor clutch disengages OREFRIGERANT QUICK-CHECK PROCEDURE The following procedure can be used to quickly determine whether or not an air conditioning system has a proper charge of refrigerant. This check can be made in a matter of minutes thus facilitating system diagnosis by pinpointing the problem to the amount of charge in the system or by eliminating this possibility from the overall checkout. Start engine and place on fast idle. Set controls for maximum cold with blower on high. Bubbles present in sight glass. System low on charge. Check with leak detector. Correct leak, if any, and fill system to proper charge. No bubbles. Sight glass clear. System is either fully charge or empty. Feel high and low pressure pipes at compressor. High pressure pipe should be warm; low pressure pipe should be cold. No appreciable temperature differential noted at compressor. System empty or nearly empty. Turn off engine and connect Charging Station. Induce 1/2# of refrigerant in system (if system will not accept charge, start engine and draw 1/2# in through low pressure side). Check system with leak detector. Temperature differential noted at compressor. Even though a differential is noted, there exists a possibility of overcharge. An overfilled system will result in poor cooling during low speed operation (as a result of excessive head pressure). An overfill is easily checked by disconnecting the compressor clutch connector while observing the sight glass. If refrigerant in sight glass remains clear for more than 45 seconds (before foaming and then settling away from sight glass) an overcharge is indicated. Verify with a per-fomance check. If refrigerant foams and then settles away from sight glass in less than 45 seconds, it can be assumed that there is a proper charge of refrigerant in system. Continue checking out system using performance checks outlined previously. CHECKING OIL In the six cylinder compressor it is not recommended that the oil be checked as a matter of course. Generally, compressor oil level should be checked only where there is evidence of a major loss of system oil such as might be caused by: • A broken refrigerant hose. • A severe hose fitting leak. • A very badly leaking compressor seal. • Collision damage to the system components. As a quick check on compressor oil charge, with the engine off, carefully crack open the oil drain plug on the bottom of the compressor. If oil comes out, the compressor has the required amount of oil. To further check the compressor oil charge, should the above test show insufficient oil, it is necessary to remove the compressor from the vehicle, drain and measure the oil. NOTE: The oil may appear foamy. This is considered normal. To further check the compressor oil charge, should the above test show insufficient oil, it is necessary to remove the compressor from the vehicle, drain and measure the oil as outlined under “Checking Compressor Oil Charge.” Checking Compressor Oil Charge 1. Run the system for 10 minutes at 500-600 engine rpm with controls set for maximum cooling and high blower speed. 2. Turn off engine, discharge the system, remove compressor from vehicle, place it in a horizontal position with the drain plug downward. Remove the drain plug and, tipping the compressor back and forth and rotating the compressor shaft, drain the oil into a clean container, measure and discard the oil. 3. a. If the quantity drained was 4 fluid oz. or more, add the same amount of new refrigerant oil to the replacement compressor. b. If the quantity drained was less than 4 fluid oz., add 6 fluid oz. of new refrigeration oil to the replacement compressor. c. If a new service compressor is being installed, drain all oil from it and replace only the amount specified in Steps 3a and 3b above. d. If a field repaired compressor is being installed, add an additional 1 fluid oz. to the compressor. 4. In the event that it is not possible to idle the compressor as outlined in Step 1 to effect oil return to it, proceed as follows: a. Remove the compressor, drain, measure and discard the oil. b. If the amount drained is more than 1-1/2 fluid oz. and the system shows no signs of a major leak, add the same amount to the replacement compressor. c. If the amount drained is less than 1-1/2 oz. and the system appears to have lost an excessive amount of oil, add 6 fluid oz. of clean refrigeration oil to replacement compressor, 7 fluid oz. to a repaired compressor. If the oil contains chips or other foreign material, replace the receiver-dehydrator and flush or replace all component parts as necessary. Add the full 11 fluid oz. of new refrigeration oil to the replacement compressor. 5. Add additional oil in the following amounts for any system components being replaced. Evaporator Core.................. 3 fluid oz. Condenser...................... 1 fluid oz. Receiver-Dehydrator.............. 1 fluid oz. CAUTION: When adding oil to the compressor, it will be necessary to tilt the rear end of the compressor up so that the oil will not run out of the suction and discharge ports. Do not set the compressor on the shaft end.MAINTENANCE AND ADJUSTMENTS THERMOSTATIC SWITCH These systems make use of a thermostatic switch with an air sensing capillary. This capillary controls the switch by sensing the temperature of the air leaving the fins. Checking for Proper Operation 1. Install the gauge set and set up the vehicle as described under “Performance Test.” 2. Movement of the temperature control knob should result in a definite change in suction pressure and cycling of the compressor clutch. • If compressor continues to operate regardless of the knob adjustment, it indicates that the switch points are fused which will lead to evaporator freeze-up. Replace the switch. • If the compressor does not operate, regardless of the position of the knob, a loss of the power element charge is indicated (provided that it has been established that power is supplied to the switch). This, of course, results in no cooling. Replace the switch. • Check the switch adjusting screw for stripped or otherwise damaged threads. NOTE: Do not attempt to run a Performance Check with the evaporator case removed—inaccurate readings would be the result. Always replace the switch and evaporator case assemblies before checking system performance. Adjusting Switch If, after the above checks, the switch seems to be operating properly, adjust for proper setting if necessary, as follows: 1. Vehicle must be set up as described in “Performance Test.” 2. The suction side of the system, read on the low pressure gauge, should pull down to the pressure shown in the chart in “Performance Data” under the ambient temperature at the time the switch is being set. 3. Remove the switch knob and then remove the evaporator case cover. Disconnect the switch wiring harness. Remove the switch attaching screws and remove the switch. 4. Remove the switch non-metal end plate to gain access to the switch adjusting screw. 5. If the outlet temperature was less than the prescribed temperature at the end of each cooling cycle, turn the adjusting screw a partial turn counterclockwise (Fig. 27). If the outlet temperature was more than prescribed temperature, turn the adjusting screw clockwise. NOTE: One turn of the adjusting screw will change the outlet temperature approximately 4 degrees. 6. Reinstall switch end plate and install switch. Reinstall evaporator case cover removed in Step 3 above. Be sure 7. Fig. 27—Thermostatic Switch Adjustment that the air sensing capillary has been positioned properly. Check system performance. If further adjustment is needed, repeat Steps 3 through 6 until the prescribed pressure is reached. EXPANSION VALVE (Fig. 28) A malfunction of the expansion valve will be caused by one of the following conditions: valve stuck open, valve stuck closed, broken power element, a restricted screen or an improperly located or installed power element bulb. The first three conditions require valve replacement. The last two may be corrected by replacing the valve inlet screen and by properly installing the power element bulb. Attachment of the expansion valve bulb to the evaporator outlet pipe is very critical. The bulb must be attached tightly to the pipe and must make good contact with the pipe along the entire length of the bulb. A loose bulb will result in high pressures and poor cooling. Indications of expansion valve trouble provided by the Performance Test are as follows: VALVE STUCK OPEN Noisy Compressor. No Cooling - Freeze Up. PLUGGED SCREEN OR VALVE STUCK CLOSED, BROKEN POWER ELEMENT Very Low Suction Pressure. No Cooling. POORLY LOCATED POWER ELEMENT BULB Normal Pressure. Poor Cooling. OLOCheck for Defective Valve The following procedure must be followed to determine if a malfunction is due to a defective expansion valve. 1. Check to determine if the system will meet the performance test as outlined previously. If the expansion valve is defective, the low pressure readings (evaporator pressure) will be above specification. 2. The loss of system performance is not as evident when the compressor head pressure is below 200 PSI. Therefore, it may be necessary to increase the system head pressure by partially blocking the condenser. Disconnect the blower lead wire and repeat the “Performance Check” to determine if the evaporator pressure can be obtained. 3. The system will also indicate a low refrigerant charge by bubbles occurring in the sight glass. Fig. 28—Expansion Valve COMPONENT PART REPLACEMENT PREPARING SYSTEM FOR REPLACEMENT OF COMPONENT PARTS Air conditioning, like many other things, is fairly simple to service once it is understood. However, there are certain procedures, practices and precautions that should be followed. For this reason it is strongly recommended that the preceding information in this section be studied thoroughly before attempting to service the system. Great emphasis must be placed upon keeping the system clean. Use plugs or caps to close system components and hoses when they are opened to the atmosphere. Keep your work area clean. In removing and replacing any part which requires unsealing the refrigerant circuit the following operations, which are described in this section, must be performed in the sequence shown. 1. Purge the system by releasing the refrigerant to the atmosphere. 2. Remove and replace the defective part. 3. Evacuate, charge and check the system. WARNING: Always wear protective goggles when working on refrigeration systems. Goggles J-5453 are included in the set of air conditioning special tools. Also, beware of the danger of carbon monoxide fumes by avoiding running the engine in closed or improperly ventilated garages. FOREIGN MATERIAL IN THE SYSTEM Whenever foreign material is found in the system, it must be removed before restoring the system to operation. In the case of compressor mechanical failure, perform the following operations: 1. Remove the compressor. 2. Remove the receiver-dehydrator and discard the unit. 3. Flush the condenser to remove foreign material which has been pumped into it. 4. Disconnect the line from the receiver-dehydrator at the inlet screen for the presence of metal chips or other foreign material. If the screen is plugged, replace it. Reconnect the line to the expansion valve. 5. Install a new receiver-dehydrator. 6. Install the replacement compressor. 7. Add the necessary quantity of oil to the system (one fluid ounce because of receiver-dehydrator replacement plus the quantity needed for the replacement compressor — see “Checking Compressor Oil Charge” under “Checking Oil.” 8. Evacuate, charge and check the system. REFRIGERANT LINE CONNECTIONS "O" Rings Always replace the “0” ring when a connection has been broken. When replacing the “O” ring, first dip it in clean refrigeration oil. Always use a backing wrench on “0” ring fittings to prevent the pipe from twisting and damaging the “O” ring. Do not overtighten. Correct torque specifications are as follows: OUTLET CAPILLARY BULBMetal Tube O.D. Thiead and Fitting Size Steel T ubing Torque* Alum. Tubing Torque* 1/4 7/16 13 6 3/8 5/8 33 12 1/2 3/4 33 12 5/8 7/8 33 20 3/4 1-1/16 33 25 Installation 1. Coat tube and hose with clean refrigeration oil. 2. Carefully insert hose over the three beads on the fitting and down as far as the fourth, or locating bead. Hose must butt against this fourth bead. CAUTION: Use no sealer of any kind. *Foot Pounds. CAUTION: Where steel to aluminum connections are being made, use torque for aluminum tubing. Hose Clamps When hose clamp connections are encountered, special procedures are necessary for both removal and installation. Removal 1. Carefully, with a sharp knife, make an angle cut in the hose as shown in Figure 29. This should loosen the hose so that it may be worked off the fitting. 2. Cut off slit end of hose. CAUTION: Use only approved refrigeration hose. Never use heater hose. Use extreme care not to nick or score the sealing beads when cutting off the hose. Cutting the hose lengthwise may result in this problem. 3. Install clamps on hose, hooking the locating arms over the cut end of the hose. 4. Tighten the hose clamp screw to 35-42 in. lbs. torque. DO NOT RETORQUE. The clamp screw torque will normally decrease as the hose conforms to the force of the clamp. The screw should be retorqued only if its torque falls below 10 in. lbs. In this case, retorque to 20-25 in. lbs. Further tightening may damage the hose. REPAIR OF REFRIGERANT LEAKS Any refrigerant leaks found in the system should be repaired in the manner given below: Leaks at "O" Ring Connection 1. Check the torque on the fitting and, if too loose, tighten to the proper torque. Always use a backing wrench to prevent twisting and damage to the “O” ring. Do not overtighten. Again leak test the joint. 2. If the leak is still present, discharge the refrigerant from the system as described under “Evacuating and Charging Procedures.” 3. Inspect the “O” ring and the fitting and replace if damaged in any way. Coat the “O” ring with clean refrigeration oil and install carefully. 4. Retorque the fitting, using a backing wrench. 5. Evacuate, charge and check the system. Leaks at Hose Clamp Connection 1. Check the tightness of the clamp itself and tighten if necessary. Recheck for leak. 2. If leak has not been corrected, discharge the system and loosen clamp and remove hose from connection. Inspect condition of hose and connector. Replace scored or damaged parts. 3. Dip end of new hose in clean refrigeration oil and carefully reinstall over connector. Never push end of hose beyond the locating bead. Properly torque the clamp. 4. Evacuate, charge and check the system. COMPRESSOR LEAKS If leaks are located around the compressor shaft seal or shell, replacement of necessary seals should be made as outlined under “Compressor” in the Chassis Overhaul Shop Manual. NOTE: A slight amount of oil leakage past the compressor front seal is considered normal.REFRIGERANT HOSE FAILURE After a leak or rupture has occurred in a refrigerant hose, or if a fitting has loosened and caused a considerable loss of refrigerant and oil, the entire system should be evacuated and recharged after repairs have been made. If the system has been open to atmosphere for any prolonged period of time the receiver-dehydrator should be replaced. These systems incorporate compressor inlet and outlet hoses which are swaged to the compressor connector block inlet and outlet lines. Because of the extreme length of the hoses on these systems, hose leaks may be repaired using the following procedure: 1. Locate the leak. This may require removing the body inner side panels to gain access to the hoses on the C-63 system. 2. Discharge the system. 3. Cut out the leaking portion of the hose, making sure that all of the failed portion is removed. If only a very small portion of the hose was removed, it may be possible to splice the two ends together using a special hose connector and two hose clamps. If several inches of hose must be removed, a new piece of hose should be spliced in using two connectors and four hose clamps. Dip the ends of the hoses in clean refrigeration oil before installing the hoses onto the connector. Never push the end of the hose beyond the locating bead of the connector. Torque the clamp to 35-42 in. lbs. CAUTION: Be sure to replace the hose in the body in the same manner as when removed. If the hose protective grommets are badly mutilated, they should be replaced. 4. Evacuate, charge and check the system. COMPRESSOR (Fig. 30) Removal 1. Disconnect battery ground cable. 2. Disconnect compressor clutch connector. 3. Purge the system of refrigerant. 4. Release the belt tension at the idler pulley and remove the belt from the compressor pulley. On some vehicles it may be necessary to remove the crankshaft pulley in order to remove the belt. 5. Remove the front air conditioning distributor duct described later in this section. 6. Remove the two bolts and two clamps that hold the engine cover and remove the cover. 7. Remove the air cleaner to aid access to the compressor. 8. Remove fitting and muffler assembly and cap or tape all open connections. 9. Remove the nuts and bolts attaching the compressor to the bracket. 10. Remove the engine oil tube support bracket bolt and nut from the compressor, also compressor clutch ground lead. 11. Remove bolt and nut holding muffler assembly to front of compressor (also holds vacuum line on power assisted brake equipped vehicles, if necessary, remove vacuum hose at manifold end). Before beginning any compressor disassembly, drain and measure oil in the compressor. Check for evidence of contamination to determine if remainder of system requires servicing. Compressor Servicing information is located in the Chassis Overhaul Manual. Installation 1. If the oil drained from the compressor showed no evidence of contamination, replace a like amount of fresh refrigeration oil into the compressor before reinstallation. If it was necessary to service the entire system because of excessive contamination in the oil removed, install a full charge of fresh refrigeration oil in the compressor. (See Checking Compressor Oil Charge in the Service Manual.) 2. Position compressor on the mounting bracket and install all nuts, bolts, lock washers, and mount oil dip stick tube, muffler, vacuum brake hose (if equipped), and ground wire. 3. Install the connector assembly to the compressor rear head, using new “O” rings coated with clean refrigeration oil. 4. Connect the electrical lead to the coil and install and adjust compressor belt, using idler pulley. See “Compressor Belt Tension Adjustment.” 5. Evacuate, charge and check the system. 6. Replace air cleaner, engine cover and air distributor duct. Compressor Belt Tension Adjustment (Fig. 30) Adjust the compressor belt to the specifications shown in the Tune-Up chart in the Engine section of the Service Manual. NOTE: On some vehicles it may be necessary to increase idler pulley slack adjustment. This may be accomplished by (1) Remove and discard the idler adjustment bolt. (2) Remove the idler backing plate and elongate all 3 adjusting slots 1/2 inch inboard or COMPRESSORoutboard as required. (3) Reinstall the idler assembly and adjust belt tension using a lever (screwdriver, etc.) to move the pulley outboard until proper belt tension is reached. If the belt is being replaced it may be necessary to remove and replace the throttle cable during the belt replacement. If so check throttle cable adjustment upon completion. It may also be necessary to remove the crankshaft pulley to install a new compressor belt. CONDENSER Replacement (Fig. 31) 1. Remove the battery ground cable and compress clutch connector. 2. Purge the system of refrigerant. 3. Remove the screws that retain the headlight mouldings and remove the screws for the grille. Remove the mouldings then remove the grille. 4. Remove 3 screws from radiator center brace and remove the brace. 5. Disconnect the condenser inlet and outlet lines and cap or tape the open connections at once. 6. Disconnect the receiver-dehydrator outlet line and cap or tape the open connections at once. 7. Remove the (4) condenser bracket bolts and remove the condenser from the vehicle. 8. Remove the condenser mounting brackets from the condenser. 9. To install, reverse Steps 1-8 above. Add 1 fluid ounce of clean refrigeration oil to a new condenser. CAUTION: Use new "O" rings, coated with clean refrigeration oil, when connecting all refrigerant lines. 10. Evacuate, charge and check the system. RECEIVER-DEHYDRATOR Replacement (Fig. 31) 1. Disconnect the battery ground cable, and the compressor clutch connector. 2. Purge the system of refrigerant. 3. Remove the screws that retain the headlight mouldings and the screws for the grille. Remove the mouldings and remove the grille. 4. Disconnect the receiver-dehydrator inlet and outlet lines and cap or tape the connections at once. 5. Remove the receiver-dehydrator bracket attaching screws. 6. Remove the receiver-dehydrator from the vehicle. 7. If a new receiver-dehydrator is being installed, add 1 fluid ounce of clean refrigeration oil to the new unit. 8. Connect the inlet and outlet lines using new “O” rings coated with clean refrigeration oil. CAUTION: Do not uncap the new unit until you are ready to fasten the inlet and outlet lines to the unit. 9. Install receiver-dehydrator by reversing Steps 1-6 above. 10. Evacuate, charge and check the system.Fig. 32—Sight Glass Replacement SIGHT GLASS REPLACEMENT If damage to the sight glass should occur, a new sight glass kit should be installed. The kit contains the sight glass, seal and retainer. (See Figure 32). 1. Purge system. 2. Remove the sight glass retainer nut using a screwdriver and remove old glass and “0” ring seal. 3. Install the new glass and seal and retainer nut, being careful not to turn the nut past the face of the housing. To do so may damage the “O” ring seal. 4. Evacuate, charge and check the system. FRONT AIR DISTRIBUTOR DUCT ASSEMBLY Replacement (Fig. 33) 1. Remove four screws that hold the duct to the engine cover. 2. Lift upwards and rearward on the top of the distributor duct assembly and move it away from the evaporator and blower motor assembly cover, being careful not to damage the seal. 3. To reinstall, reverse Steps 1 and 2, making sure seal to evaporator and blower motor cover is properly positioned. FRONT BLOWER-EVAPORATOR COVER Replacement (Fig. 33) 1. Remove four screws holding the cover to the evaporator assembly. 2. Remove the temperature control knob and place the blower switch(es) on M. 3. Remove the cover being careful not to damage the seal to the air distributor duct. 4. To reinstall, reverse Steps 1-3, being sure seal to air distributor duct is properly positioned.FRONT BLOWER-EVAPORATOR ASSEMBLY Removal (Fig. 34) 1. Disconnect battery ground cable, and compressor clutch lead from connector. 2. Purge system of refrigerant. 3. Remove from blower-evaporator case as described previously. 4. Disconnect inlet and outlet refrigerant lines from underneath the unit, and cap or tape the connections at once. 5. Disconnect drain tubes from evaporator case. 6. Remove blower-evaporator assembly bracket bolts. 7. Remove electrical connections from switches, resistors, relays and blower motor. Once the unit has been removed from the vehicle, continue with necessary component replacement as follows: EXPANSION VALVE and/or EVAPORATOR CORE Removal 1. Remove the cover plate and separate upper and lower case halves. 2. Remove inlet and outlet lines from the expansion valve. Remove sensing bulb from the evaporator outlet manifold. Remove expansion valve. 3. Remove evaporator core retaining screws and remove core. 4. Remove blower motor and harness assembly from case. Installation 1. Reverse applicable steps in the removal procedure. 2. Reverse Steps l-7 of the “Front Blower-Evaporator Assembly” removal procedure. NOTE: Add 3 fluid ounces of new refrigeration oil to a new core. 3. Evacuate, charge and check the system. BLOWER MOTOR-FRONT Fig. 34—Front Blower-Evaporator Installation the motor is placed in the case. Do not tighten setscrews at this point. 2. Place the motor in the bracket with the electrical connector side of the motor to the right side of the bracket. Attach the mounting strap. Align blower wheels so that they do not contact case. Tighten setscrews. 3. Reverse removal Steps l-5 for proper installation. ELECTRICAL COMPONENTS The front and rear blower switches, thermostatic switch, front and rear resistors and tie relay are attached to the front blower-evaporator assembly (Fig. 35). Removal 1. Disconnect the battery ground cable and compressor clutch connector. 2. Remove the Front Blower-Evaporator Cover as previously described. 3. Disconnect the blower motor feed wire and ground wires. 4. Remove the blower-evaporator cover brackets from the assembly. 5. Remove the top half of the blower-evaporator case. 6. Remove blower motor mounting strap. 7. Remove blower assembly. Loosen the blower wheel setscrews and remove the wheels from the motor shaft. Installation I. Install the blower wheels on the motor so that the lower blades curve toward the dash panel side of the unit when BLOWER-EVAPORATOR COVER VIEW A THERMOSTATIC A ' J * SWITCH % REAR RESISTOR REAR BLOWER SWITCH FRONT RESISTOR TIE RELAY (FRONT TO REAR) EVAPORATOR CONTROL. BLOWER MOTOR W FWDReplacement 1. Disconnect the battery ground cable and compressor clutch connector. 2. Remove the blower-evaporator cover as described previously. 3. Disconnect the electrical harness at the switch. 4. Remove the attaching screws and remove the switch. 5. To install, reverse Steps 1-4 above. Check system operation. REAR BLOWER RELAY The rear blower relay is attached to the instrument panel reinforcement, just left of the steering column (Fig. 36). Replacement 1. Disconnect battery ground cable. 2. Disconnect relay wiring harness at the relay. 3. Remove the relay attaching screws and remove the relay. 4. To install, reverse Steps 1-3 above. Check system operation. FUSE The C-62 or C-63 Air Conditioning Units do not incorporate an in-line fuse. The lead wire is connected to the Heater Wiring Harness and operates off the 25 amp Heater Fuse — see Wiring Diagrams at rear of this section. SPORTVAN DUCT C-63 (FRONT AND INTERMEDIATE) Replacement (Fig. 37) 1. Remove sealing strips at ends of ducts. 2. Remove retaining screws. 3. Squeeze the sides of the duct together and remove the duct from its retaining flanges. 4. To install, reverse removal Steps 1-3, being careful not to damage the retaining flanges and seals during installation. NOTE: Be careful not to damage the retaining flanges when reinstalling the duct. If the duct trim strip came off at removal, install it between the front and intermediate air ducts. CHEVY VAN DUCT C-63 Replacement (Fig. 38) 1. Remove the sealing strips at each end of the duct. 2. Remove the screws retaining the duct. 3. Squeeze the sides of the duct together and remove the duct from its retaining flanges. 4. To install, reverse “Removal” Steps 1-3, being careful not to damage the retaining flanges when reinstalling the duct. REAR DUCT C-63 (Fig. 39) This duct covers the blower-evaporator assembly and connects to the intermediate duct.Replacement 1. Remove the sealing strip at the forward edge of the duct. 2. Remove the roof panel trim strip. 3. Remove rear dome light. 4. Remove the screws securing the rear duct. 5. Remove the duct from the retaining flanges at the rear, side and front retainers (in that order). 6. Pry the ferrules out of the drain tubes and disconnect the drain tubes from the rear duct. 7. Remove the duct assembly. 8. To install, reverse Steps I-7 above. BLOWER MOTOR ASSEMBLIES (C-63) Removal (Fig. 40) 1. Disconnect the battery ground cable and compressor clutch connector. 2. Remove the rear duct as outlined previously. 3. Remove the blower motor ground straps at the center connector between the motors. 4. Disconnect the blower motor lead wires. 5. Remove the lower to upper blower-evaporator case screws and lower the lower case and motor assemblies. WARNING: Before removing the case screws, support the lower case to prevent damage to the case or motor assemblies. 6. Remove the motor retaining strap and remove the motor and wheels. Remove the wheels from the motor shaft. Installation I. Place the blower wheels onto the motor shaft and install the set screws: do not tighten the set screws at tliis time. CAUTION: Be sure that the blower wheels are installed as shown in the Service Manual. 2. Install the blower motor retaining strap and foam. 3. Place the two blower motor and wheel assemblies into the lower case. Align the blower wheels so that they do not contact the case and then lighten the wheel set screws. 4. Place the lower case and blower motor assemblies in position in the vehicle and install the lower to upper case screws. NOTE: Rotate the blower wheels to make sure that they do not rub on the case. 5. Install the center ground wires and connect the blower lead wires. 6. Install the rear duct assembly as described previously. 7. Connect the battery ground cable and compressor clutch connector. EXPANSION VALVES (C-63) This system incorporates two expansion valves. These valves do not use the external equalizer line. Removal (Inner Valve) 1. Disconnect the battery ground cable and compressor clutch connector. 2. Purge the system of refrigerant. 3. Remove the rear duct as outlined previously. 4. Disconnect the center ground wire and the blower motor lead wires. Remove the lower to upper case screws and lower the lower case and blower motor assemblies. WARNING: Before removing the lower case screws, support the case to prevent damage to the case or motor assemblies. 5. Disconnect the valve sensing bulb from the core outlet line. 6. Disconnect the core inlet and outlet lines and remove the valve assembly. Cap or tape the open connections at once.Installation (Inner Valve) 1. Remove caps or tape from system connections and install the new valve assembly using new “O” rings coated with clean refrigeration oil. 2. Install the sensing bulb, making sure that the bulb makes good contact with the core outlet line. 3. Install the lower case and blower motor assemblies. 4. Install the rear duct as outlined previously. 5. Connect the battery ground cable and compressor clutch connector. 6. Evacuate, charge and check the system. Removal (Outer Valve) 1. Disconnect the battery ground cable and compressor clutch connector. 2. Purge the system of refrigerant. 3. Remove the rear duct as outlined previously. 4. Disconnect the blower motor ground straps and leads. 5. Disconnect the refrigerant lines at the rear of the blower-evaporator assembly. 6. Remove the blower-evaporator to roof panel, attachments and lower the blower-evaporator assembly. Remove the assembly and place on a work bench upside down. 7. Remove the lower to upper case screws and remove the lower case assembly. Remove the upper shroud from the upper case and then remove the upper case from the core. 8. Remove the expansion valve bulb from the evaporator outlet line. Remove the expansion valve inlet and outlet lines and cap or tape the open conhections at once. Remove the valve. Installation (Outer Valve) 1. Remove the caps or tape from the refrigerant connections and install the new valve using new “0” rings coated with clean refrigeration oil. 2. Install the upper case to the core making sure the sealing strips are positioned correctly. Install the upper shroud on the upper case. 3. Install the lower case and blower assemblies. 4. Install the blower-evaporator to the roof panel. 5. Connect the refrigerant lines at the rear of the blower-evaporator unit using new “O” rings coated with clean refrigeration oil. 6. Connect the blower lead wires and ground straps. 7. Install the rear duct as described previously. 8. Connect the battery ground cable and the compressor clutch connector. 9. Evacuate, charge and check the system. EVAPORATOR CORE C-63 (Fig. 42) Removal 1. Disconnect the battery ground cable and compressor clutch connector. 2. Purge the system of refrigerant. 3. Remove the rear duct as outlined previously. Fig. 41—Expansion Valves 4. Disconnect the blower motor leads and ground wire. 5. Disconnect the refrigerant lines at the rear of the blower-evaporator assembly. 6. Remove the blower-evaporator to roof panel attachments and lower the blower-evaporator assembly. Remove the assembly and place it on a work bench upside down. 7. Remove the lower to upper case screws and remove the lower case assembly. Remove the upper shroud and upper case from the evaporator core. 8. Remove the expansion valve inlet and outlet lines and cap or tape the open connections at once. Remove the expansion valve capillary bulbs from the evaporator outlet line and remove the valves. 9. Remove the plastic pins holding the screen to the core and remove the screen. Installation 1. Install the wire screen to the front of the new core and insert the plastic pins. 2. Install the expansion valve inlet and outlet lines using new “O” rings coated with clean refrigeration oil. Install the sensing bulbs to the evaporator outlet line. Make sure the bulbs have good contact with the line. NOTE: Add 3 oz. clean refrigeration oil when installing a new core. 3. Install the upper case and upper shroud to the core. 4. Install the lower core case and blower assemblies. 5. Install the blower-evaporator to the roof panel. 6. Connect the refrigerant lines to the blower-evaporator unit using new “0” rings coated with clean refrigeration oil. 7. Connect the blower lead wires and ground straps. 8. Install the rear duct as outlined previously. 9. Connect the battery ground cable and the compressor clutch connector. 10. Evacuate, charge and check the system. VALVES VALVE SENSING BULBSCHEVY VAN SHOP MANUAL COMPRESSOR "I I50[ 59 11501 59 | TT 5 * m Q Z * 5 ^T .H°: GRD -<§>CQ n-Sl EXk—A-I4BRN--- - BRN -[soil ----- HEATER CONTROL SWITCH CONNECTOR INSTRUMENT A PANEL WIRING * m 14 6RN DK r L 14 B-□§)—^ GRD -o% -I6BLK-0RN -f52^ 0~^ 14 BLU LT- 14 YEL- 14 ORN- ,M3 C “vl -B-x =^12 RESISTOR I-: BRN 14 YEL 4-16 BLK-GRN —A M4 ORN -B H4 YEL BLOWER SWITCH P OS CIRCUIT OFF BAT7 ONLY LO BATT, LO MED BATT, LO, MED HI BATT. L.M.HI 14 YEL - 14 GRN DK- -H3 THERMOSTATIC SWITCH Fig. 43—C-62 Wiring Diagram FRONT BLOWER MOTOR AIR CONDITIONING 1A-32CHEVY VAN SHOP MANUAL -f COMPRESSOR rv A I I50| 59 , r^7 I 1501 59 I * _j CD * Q Z cc •i(—^ GRD 1 EDe-A-14 V- B - 14 BRN B - 14 BRN —655 HEATER CONTROL SWITCH CONNECTOR INSTRUMENT PANEL WIRING RESISTOR (FRONT) M3 I L2 Fl a-. CL o Wl e p IT 3 a r IH14 GRA BLOWER RELAY (REAR) 14 GRN DK cvjC-10 R- -12 BLU DK 10 PPL— -D-I2 R— C-14 YEL-631-12 TAN - TIE RELAY (FRONT TO REAR) DASH oCz >- O ¥ CO >-I cc CM I 2 GO ’ |904|52 I \c 72 =V * o ac _ O LlJ > v CD c ■14 B-GUs)-^ grd <1 ■®§) XC XC BLOWER MTR (REAR) EY BLOWER MTR (FRONT) Lt CD CM £ 5 o ^ CM BLOWER SWITCH Th&v ipRONT> FUSE PANEL i / I, 1902 1901 I 6 3] 1 19031 BLOWER SWITCH THERMOSTATIC (REAR) SWITCH *8, i® 12 BLU DK 12 GRN LT-12 BRN- RESISTOR (REAR) 10 PPL- POS CIRCUIT OFF •BATT ONLY L0 BATT. L0 MED BATT. L0.MED HI BATT.L0.MED.H I O BLOWER MTR (REAR) Fig. 44—C-63 Wiring Diagram AIR CONDITIONING 1A-3315 Q|°|. 16 25 29 26 t r n 27 31 n c L'0 D Q 18 19 20 21 24 28 30 1. J-8393 Charging Station 2. J-24095 Oil Inducer 3. J-5453 Goggles 4. J-9459 90 Degree Gauge Line Adapter 5. J-5420 Gauge Line Adapter 6. J-6084 Leak Detector 7. J-8433 Puller 8. J-9395 Puller Pilot 9. J-23595 Refrigerant Can Valve (Side-Tap) 10. J-6271 Refrigerant Can Valve (Top-Tap) 11. J-5421 Pocket Thermometers (2) 12. J-5403 No. 21 Snap Ring Pliers 13. 14. 15. 16. 17. 18. 19. 20. 21. 22. J-6453 No. 26 Snap Ring Pliers J-9396 Compressor Holding Fixture J-9397 Compressing Fixture J-9403 Clutch Hub Holding Tool J-9399 9/16" Thin Wall Socket J-9401 Hub and Drive Plate Assembly Remover J-9480 Hub and Drive Plate Assembly Installer J-9392 Seal Remover J-23128 Seal Seat Remover J-9398 Pulley Bearing Remover 32 23. J-9481 Pulley and Bearing Installer 24. J-8092 Handle 25. J-21352 Internal Assembly Support Block 26. J-5139 Oil Pickup Tube Remover 27. J-9432 Needle Bearing Installer 28. J 9553 Seal Seat "O” Ring Remover 29. J-21508 Seal Seat "0" Ring Installer 30. J-22974 Shaft Seal Protector 31. J-9527 Pressure Test Connector 32. J 9402 Parts Tray Fig. 45—Air Conditioning Special ToolsSECTION IB BODY INDEX Page Service Information............................IB-1 Body Sealing.............................IB-1 Locating Dust and Water Leaks...............IB-1 Body and Frame ............................IB-1 Component Parts Replacement ...................1B-3 Front End.................................1 B-3 Windshield Wipers.........................IB-3 Arm Adjustment..........................1 B-3 Wiper Arm Pivot Shafts and Link Rod .........1 B-3 Windshield Glass..........................1 B-3 Checking Windshield Opening................IB-4 Cowl Side Ventilator Valve Assembly..........1B-5 Instrument Panel Trim .....................IB-5 Cowl Ventilator Grille......................IB-6 Inside Rear View Mirror Mounting Bracket......IB-6 Inside Rear View Mirror....................IB-6 Sunshade................................1B-6 Engine Access Cover.......................1 B-6 Front Side Door ............................IB-7 Door Hinges .............................1B-7 Door Weatherstrip.........................IB-7 Trim Panel, Arm Rest and Handles............IB-7 Door Ventilator Assembly ..................IB-7 Ventilator Glass Replacement................IB-8 Door Window Assembly....................1B-8 Window Regulator Replacement..............IB-8 Door Lock ..............................1B-9 Door Lock Cylinder Assembly ...............IB-9 Door Lock Remote Control and Rod..........1 B-9 Door Adjustments.........................1 B-9 Door Striker and Adjustments ...............IB-10 Page Sliding Side Door..............................1 B-l 1 Front Latch Assembly........................IB-12 Rear Latch and/or Latch Actuating Rods .........1 B-l2 Upper Left Hinge............................1 B-l2 Door Strikers...............................1 B-l2 Rear Lock Striker ...........................IB-12 Front Latch Striker..........................IB-13 Sliding Door Adjustments.....................1 B-l3 Seats........................................1 B-l 6 Drivers Seat................................IB-16 Seat Riser (Driver’s Seat)......................IB-17 Passenger Seat..............................1B-17 Seat Riser (Passenger Seat) ....................1B-17 Bench Seats................................IB-17 Seat and/or Seat Support......................IB-17 Body Windows................................1 B-l8 Side Stationary Window Glass, Weatherstrip and Reveal Moldings.......................IB-18 Side Window Glass and Hinge (Swingout).........1 B-l8 Side Window Glass Weatherstrip (Swingout).......1 B-l8 Side Window Glass Latch (Swingout) ............1 B-l9 Rear Doors...................................1 B-l9 Hinge Strap.....................,..........IB-19 Door Hinge ................................IB-19 Remote Control.............................IB-19 Upper or Lower Latches and/or Rods............IB-19 Outside Handle .............................1B-20 Lock Cylinder..............................1 B-20 Glass and Weatherstrip........................1 B-20 Door Adjustments...........................1 B-20 SERVICE INFORMATION Body Sealing Cab construction details showing location of sealing compound are shown in Figure 1. In servicing complete panels or only a portion of a particular section it must be completely sealed to the panel with which it mates. Locating Water Leaks When checking for water leaks a helper should be used on the inside of the cab or body to locate the entrance of water, while it is applied on the outside. NOTE: Water does not always enter the cab or body in the location where leaks show up, therefore, back-tracking the path of water will show the true entrance of the leak. Body and Frame The “Chevy Van” has an integral body and frame. The unitized body consists of heavy gauge welded main structural members with an underbody of longitudinal box section side rails and crossmembers which form the integral frame. All outer panels are welded to a flat floor.FRONT INNER ROCKER PANEL FRONT WHEELHOU. Fig. 1—Body Sealing Areas HVCOMPONENT PART REPLACEMENT Windshield Wipers Windshield wiper units on all models are of the two-speed electric type. A single wiper motor unit, mounted to dash panel at top and to left of engine cover inside cab, power both wiper blades. The wiper blade operating link rods and pivot mountings on these models are located in the outside air inlet plenum chamber. Arm Adjustment To adjust sweep of blades turn on wipers, then note sweep of arms. If necessary, remove one or both arms as follows: Pull outer end of arm away from glass which will trip lock spring at base of arm and release spring from undercut of pivot shaft. While holding arm in this position, pull outward on cap section at base of arm to remove arm. Arm can be reinstalled in any one of several positions due to serrations on pivot shaft and in arm cap. Wiper Arm Pivot Shafts and Link Rod (Fig. 2) Removal 1. Remove windshield wiper arms from pivot shafts. Procedure for removing arms is explained previously under “Arm Adjustments.” 2. Remove screws which attach outside air cowl ventilator grille to cowl. Carefully remove grille from cowl. 3. At center of cowl, remove two attaching nuts which attaches link rod to motor drive. Disengage link rods from pins. 4. Remove screws which attach each arm transmission pivot shaft assembly to cowl. Remove pivot shaft assembly with link rod from plenum chamber. Installation 1. Place pivot shaft assembly with link rod into position at cowl bracket. Secure assembly to bracket with two screws. 2. Attach end of link rod to motor drive and arm. Secure rod with the two attaching nuts. 3. Install outside air cowl ventilator grille to top of cowl. 4. Before installing wiper arms, operate wiper motor momentarily which should rotate pivot shafts to park position. Install arms. Windshield Glass The windshield is a one-piece type and is retained in the windshield opening by a moulded rubber weatherstrip. This weatherstrip is sealed in the windshield opening and sealed to the windshield glass. When replacing a cracked windshield glass, it is very important that the cause of the glass breakage be determined and the condition corrected before a new glass is installed. Otherwise, it is highly possible that a small obstruction or high spot somewhere around the windshield opening will continue to crack or break the newly installed windshield especially when the strain on the glass caused by this obstruction is increased by such conditions as wind pressures, extremes of temperature, motion of the vehicle, etc. The procedure for removal of the windshield applies to the complete windshield assembly. Removal 1. Before removing the windshield, mark the location of the break on the windshield rubber channel and the body. Protect the paint finish inside of the cab. Mask around the windshield opening and outside, lay a suitable covering across the hood and fenders. NOTE: The windshield glass rubber weatherstrip is one piece. The glass is held in a channel within the weatherstrip (fig. 3). 2. Do not try to remove reveal mouldings while windshield is in body opening. Remove from custom weatherstripFig. 4—Loosening Weatherstrip retention groove (fig. 3) after windshield removal from body opening. 3. To free windshield rubber channel of weatherstrip loosen the lip of the windshield weatherstrip from the pinchweld flange along the top and at the sides by applying pressure with palm of the hand to the edge of the glass. At the same time assist the lip of the rubber weatherstrip channel over the pinchweld flange with a flat bladed tool such as a tongue depressor, or shaped mycarta blade (fig- 4). b. Irregularities in body opening. c. Irregularities in rubber channel weatherstrip. 2. Remove all sealer from flange and body around windshield opening. 3. Check flange area for solder, weld high spots, or hardened spot-weld sealer. Remove all high spots. 4. Check windshield glass to opening, by supporting glass with six spacers contained in packet J-22577 (Fig. 5). Checking Windshield Opening Due to the expanse and contour of the windshield it is imperative in the event of a strain break that the windshield opening be thoroughly checked before installing a replacement windshield. The replacement glass is used as a template. 1. Check for the following conditions at the previous marked point of fracture, a. Chipped edges on glass. CHECKING BLOCKS CAUTION: Do not strike glass against body metal. Chipped edges on the glass can lead to future breaks. NOTE: It is necessary to modify the spacers by cutting off 3/16" from the back of the spacer with a knife (Fig. 6). 5. With the windshield supported and centered in its opening, check the relationship of the glass to the body opening flange around the entire perimeter of the glass (Fig. 7). 6. Check the relationship of glass to opening as follows: a. Inside edge of glass to body flange. b. Outer edge of glass to parallel body metal. 7. Mark areas of body metal or flange to be reformed, remove glass and correct as necessary. 8. Recheck windshield in its opening and if satisfactory proceed as follows. Installation CAUTION: Always wear gloves when handling glass. 1. Apply sealer to weatherstrip and install on glass. 2. Install a cord around periphery of weatherstrip, leaving a loop at the top and the loose ends at the bottom as shown in Figure 8.•APPLY SEALER Fig. 9—Pulling String to Seal Rubber Lip Cowl Side Ventilator Valve Assembly (Fig. 10) Removal 1. Remove screws retaining valve guide to panel. 2. Remove valve assembly by depressing pins at top and bottom of valve. Fig. 7—Windshield Glass, Weatherstrip and Sealing 3. Place protective covering over plenum grille, front fenders and hood. 4. Place windshield and weatherstrip assembly in opening. With one technician lightly pushing in on windshield, another technician within the cab should pull on the cord as follows: a. Pull on loose ends (fig. 9) until each is within 2" of its respective upper corner. b. Pull on loop until cord is within 2" of the upper corners. c. Finish seating comers by simultaneously pulling on both ends of the cord at each corner. This will insure proper positioning of the critical upper corners. d. Seal windshield to weatherstrip and weatherstrip to body. Installation 1. Depress pins at top and bottom of valve and insert into panel. 2. Install screws retaining valve guide to panel. Instrument Panel Trim NOTE: Instrument panel trim consists of four separate pieces. Each piece is retained by nuts under the instrument panel. The following procedure, then, is typical. Removal 1. From under the instrument panel, remove nuts retaining the trim panel and its insert and remove trim. 2. Separate trim from insert. Fig. 8—Cord Installation Fig. 10—Side Cowl Ventilator 5\ FORWAIInstallation 1. Install insert into trim panel. 2. Install panel and insert into the instrument panel and install retaining nuts. Instrument Panel Removal 1. Remove Steering Column, and all Instruments as outlined in Sections 9, 12, 15. 2. Remove bolts securing panel assembly to dash. Installation 1. Reverse above procedure. Torque bolts to specifications. Cowl Ventilator Grille (Fig. 11). Removal 1. Remove windshield wiper blades. 2. Remove screws retaining grille and remove grille and seal. Installation 1. Install grille and seal. 2. Install wiper blades. Check sweep of blades and adjust as „ necessary. Inside Rear View Mirror (Fig. 12) Removal 1. Remove screw retaining mirror to its glass-mounted brackct and remove mirror. Installation 1. Install mirror into its mounting bracket. Torque screw to specifications. Sunshade Removal 1. Remove sunshades to header panel screw. Installation 1. Install sunshade to header panel screw and torque to specifications. Engine Access Cover Removal 1. Unlatch cover from cowl. 2. Remove holddown bolts securing cover to floor (at rear side). 3. Carefully slide rearward, lifting rear of cover to clear instrument panel. Installation 1. Reverse steps 1, 2, 3 above. FRONT SIDE DOOR Door Hinge Remove 1. Remove hinge access hole cover from door hinge pillar. 2. If removing one hinge, support door in such a manner that weight is taken off other hinge, and also, support in such a manner that door will not move. 3. Remove hinge screws from both body and from door and remove hinge. Installation 1. Install hinge to door and body. Snug bolts. 2. Remove door supports. 3. Adjust door as outlined under “Door Adjustment”. 4. Torque bolts to specifications. 5. Install hinge access hole covers.Door Weatherstrip Success of weatherstrip replacement depends entirely upon the quality of the cement used and the care with which it is applied. All rust, road dirt and grease or oil must be completely removed as should all old cement and bits of old weatherstrip. After removing all foreign material from door opening surface, wipe down with prepsol or its equivalent. Use only a good quality cement which is made specially for weatherstrip installation, following the manufacturer’s directions. Proceed as follows: 1. Open door and block open. 2. Remove side door weatherstrip. 3. Remove used adhesive from door with adhesive or cement remover. 4. Apply adhesive to door. 5. Install weatherstrip. 6. Trim weatherstrip with a notch as shown in Figure 13 and butt ends together. Trim Panel, Arm Rest and Handles Removal 1. Remove screws retaining arm rest to trim panel. 2. Remove door handles with Tool J-7797 and pull from shaft. 3. Remove trim panel screws and remove panel. If seal is damaged, replace seal. Installation 1. Install trim panel. 2. Install arm rest. Install door handle washers and then handles. Fig. 14—FrontSide Door Regulator and Ventilator Attachments Door Ventilator Assembly Removal NOTE: The channel between the door window glass and door vent is removed as part of the vent assembly. 1. Regulate the door window glass to the full down position. 2. Remove door handles with Tool J-7797. 3. Remove trim panel. 4. Remove rear window run channel screws. 5. Slide door window glass rearward away from ventilator. 6. Remove three screws at the upper front of the door (fig. 14). 7. Turn the vent assembly 90° and carefully remove by guiding up and out (fig. 15). Installation NOTE: Replace the door window glass and regulate to the full down position before installing the door"ventilator assembly. 1. Lower the ventilator assembly into the door frame-center into position. 2. Make certain the rubber lip is positioned before tightening screws. 3. Slide door glass forward engaging glass in vent channel. 4. Reinstall all screws and tighten. 5. Install and tighten the three screws at the upper front of the door. Adjustment 6. Adjust the ventilator adjusting nut by turning clockwise to increase operating tension (fig. 16). 7. After making adjustment bend tabs over the hex nut. 8. Install trim panel. 9. Install door and window regulator handles.Fig. 15—Ventilator Assembly Removal Ventilator Glass Replacement 1. Using an oil can or similar means, squirt prepsol on the glass filler all around the glass channel or frame to soften the old seal. When the seal has softened, remove the glass from the channel. 2. Thoroughly clean the inside of the glass channel with sandpaper, removing all rust, etc. 3. Using new glass channel filler, cut the piece to be installed two inches longer than necessary for the channel. Place this piece of filler (soapstoned side of filler away from glass) evenly over the edge of the glass which will fit in the channel. The extra filler extending beyond the rear edge of the glass should be pinched together to hold it in place during glass installation. NOTE: One side of this filler (the outside of the roll) is soapstoned. This is the side which goes into the metal channel. 4. Brush the inside of the metal glass channel freely with ordinary engine oil. This will enable the glass and filler to slide freely into the channel. Push the glass with the filler around it into the channel until it is firmly seated. After the glass is firmly in place, the oil softens the filler, causing it to swell, thereby making a perfect, watertight seal. Trim off the excess filler material around the channel and at the ends of the channel. NOTE: Glass should be installed so that rear edge is parallel to the division post. Allow full cure before water testing. Door Window Assembly Removal 1. Completely lower glass to bottom of door. 2. Remove inside door and window regulator handles using Tool J-7797. 3. Remove door arm rest and trim pad. 4. Mask or cover upper portion of door window frame. Remove ventilator assembly as previously outlined. 5. Slide glass forward until front roller is in line with notch in sash channel. Disengage roller from channel. 6. Push window forward and tilt front portion of window up until rear roller is disengaged. 7. Put window assembly in normal position (level) and raise straight up and out. 8. Reverse above procedure for installation. Window Regulator Replacement (Fig. 17) Removal 1. Wind window all the way up. 2. Remove inside door handles with Tool J-7797. 3. Remove door trim pad. 4. Remove 4 screws securing regulator to inner panel (Fig. 14). 5. Push regulator out of circular opening while holding rear of assembly, then slide assembly to the notches in the carrier channel and out through the door access hole. Installation Install regulator in reverse order of removal, lubricate regulator gears with lubriplate or equivalent.Door Lock (Fig. 18) Removal 1. Raise window. 2. Remove inside handles with Tool J-7797. 3. Remove trim panel. 4. Remove remote control sill knob. 5. From outside the door remove screws retaining lock to door edge and lower the lock assembly. 6. Remove screws retaining remote control. 7. Remove lock, push button rod and remote control rod as an assembly. Installation 1. Transfer remote rod with clip to new lock. 2. Connect remote door handle rod to lock after lock is positioned. 3. Secure lock screws. 4. Secure remote handle. 5. Check all controls for proper operation before reinstalling trim and handles. 6. Install remote control sill knob. Front Door Lock Cylinder Assembly Removal and Installation 1. Raise door window and remove door trim pad. 2. With a screw driver, or other suitable tool, slide lock cylinder retaining clip (on door outer panel) out of engagement and remove lock cylinder. 3. To install, reverse removal procedure. Front Door Lock Remote Control and Connecting Rod The remote control is secured to the door inner panel by the three attaching bolts. Removal and Installation 1. Raise door window and remove door trim pad. 2. Remove bolts securing remote to door inner panel. 3. Pivot remote inboard slightly, to disengage connecting rod, and remove remote from door. 4. To install, reverse removal procedure. NOTE: Connecting rod can be removed at this point by disconnecting spring clip from lock. Door Adjustments Doors can be adjusted for alignment or clearance in the cab door opening, and for proper latching. Door alignment adjustments are made at the striker bolt, and at door hinges. The door, when properly located in door opening, will have equal clearance around its perimeter. Reposition Door "Up" or "Down" NOTE: Door "up" and "down" adjustment in cab opening is provided by means of floating hinge bolt tapping plates within door framing. Horizontal slotted holes in cab half of hinge assembly provide the "in" or "out" adjustment of door. 1. Remove striker bolt from cab pillar using Tool J-23457. (Fig. 19). 2. Loosen hinge-to-door cap screws slightly. Reposition door on hinges to provide equal clearance around perimeter of door in cab opening. 3. After satislu. tory adjustment has been obtained, tighten hinge cap screws firmly. Open and close door to check operation. If necessary, repeat adjustment. 4. Install striker bolt and adjust as directed under “Striker Bolt Adjustment.”Reposition Door "Fore" or "Aft" 1. Remove striker bolt from cab pillar using Tool J-23457. 2. Loosen upper hinge-to-pillar bolts slightly. 3. Lift upward or pull downward at rear of door to tilt upper portion of door “fore” or “aft” as desired. 4. Tighten hinge bolts firmly after making adjustment. Open and close door to check operation. Repeat adjustment if necessary. 5. Install striker bolt and adjust as directed under “Striker Bolt Adjustment.” To Reposition Door In or Out NOTE: Horizontal slots exist in door half of hinge assembly to permit this adjustment. The outer surface of door when properly installed should be flush with adjacent panel surfaces of cab. If necessary, reposition door as follows: 1. Loosen slightly, all bolts which attach hinge half to door. 2. If door is to be brought outward from cab opening, apply pressure at door hinge area from inside cab. If door is to be moved inward, apply pressure on door outer panel at hinge area. IMPORTANT: Excessive pressure will damage door paneling. 3. After adjustment has been made, tighten hinge bolts firmly. Open and close door to check operation. Readjust if necessary. NOTE: It may be necessary to reposition striker on pillar after making above adjustment. See "Striker Bolt Adjustment." Door Striker The door striker consists of a special bolt and washer assembly which is threaded into a tapped, floating cage plate located behind the cab lock pillar. The door is secured in closed position when the lock cam in door engages and snaps-over the striker bolt. Striker bolt can be replaced or adjusted as directed under applicable headings. NOTE: All door striker parts, including shims and bolts, are important attaching parts in that they could affect the performance of vital components and systems, and/or could result in major repair expense. They must be replaced with parts of the same part numbers or with equivalent parts if replacement becomes necessary. Do not use replacement parts of lesser quality or substitute design. Torque values must be used as specified during reassembly to assure proper retention of these parts. Striker Bolt Replacement 1. Mark position of striker bolt spacer or washer on door pillar using pencil or crayon. 2. Insert Tool J-23457 (Fig. 19) into head of striker bolt, then turn bolt counterclockwise from plate in cab pillar. 3. Reverse above procedure to install. Make sure the bolt washer is within marks on pillar. Torque bolt to specification. 4. If door has been removed and then installed or aligned in opening, the door should not be closed completely until a visual check is made to determine if lock cam in door will engage the striker bolt correctly. Center of striker bolt should be in direct alignment with “V” slot in door. If necessary, reposition striker bolt as directed below under “Striker Bolt Adjustment.” Striker Bolt Adjustment NOTE: Striker bolt on cab pillar is adjustable vertically and transversely after loosening the bolt with Tool J-23457. The bolt fore and aft adjustment is obtained by use of washers between the bolt washer and the cab pillar. Striker Bolt "Fore" and "Aft" Adjustment 1. To check striker bolt for proper fore and aft adjustment, smear grease or paint to contact side of bolt. 2. Slowly close door until lock cam of door just contacts the side of striker bolt and makes an impression in the grease or paint. 3. Measure distance between head of bolt and the cam impression in grease. Distance should measure 1/8-inch as shown in Figure 20. To adjust, remove the striker bolt and install or remove shim spacers. 4. After obtaining adjustment, tighten bolt only snug and proceed with “Striker Bolt Adjustment.” Striker Bolt Height Adjustment NOTE: This adjustment is important to assure that the right proportion of door's weight will rest jon striker bolt when door is closed. If bolt is positioned too high on pillar, rapid wear will occur to the lock cam; if too low, an extra load will be placed on door hinges as well as pull door downward and out of alignment. Generally the striker bolt height adjustment can be checked quite accurately by just sighting the center of “V” slot on door with the center of striker bolt as illstrated in Figure 20. However, to make a more positive check, perform the following: 1. Mark a horizontal line through center of “V” slot and on door lock cam as shown in Figure 21. 2. Smear some grease or paint on contact edge of lock cam as shown in same view. 3. Slowly close door until cam barely contacts the striker bolt to leave an impression in grease. Open door and check contact mark on edge of cam. Mark should be located along centerline mark. 4. If necessary, raise or lower the loosened striker bolt up or down by tapping on the washer or spacer at base of striker bolt. DO NOT TAP ON HEAD OF BOLT. Torque bolt to specifications. Door Rear Edge "In" or "Out" Adjustment This adjustment is for purpose of aligning the rear surface of door flush with adjacent surfaces of cab. If surfaces are not flush, proceed as follows: 1. Mark the horizontal line on cab pillar at top of striker bolt base washer or spacer. 2. Loosen striker bolt slightly, then tap against bolt base washer, to remove bolt “in” or “out” as necessary to locate door surface flush with cab surface when door is closed. Before tightening the striker bolt make sure top of bolt base washer is contacting the horizontal mark on cab pillar. Torque bolt to specifications. Fig. 22—Sliding Door Front Latch SLIDING SIDE DOOR Front Latch Assembly Removal 1. Remove trim panel (it' so equipped). 2. Remove access cover. 3. Unscrew door lock knob from rod. 4. Disconnect the following rods from latch (Fig. 22). a. rear latch rods b. lock cylinder rod c. door lock rod 5. Remove door handle. 6. Remove screws letaming iatch assembly to door. 7. Slide latch rearward and lift front of latch. Disconnect rod leading to lower hinge door catch by pushing rod out of hole and rotating rod clear of latch (Fig. 23). 8. Remove latch assembly from door. REAR LATCH RODS LOWER HINGE DOOR CATCH ROD LOCK CYLINDER LOCKING RODInstallation 1. Install latch assembly into door by working latch assembly behind the lower hinge door catch. 2. Connect lower hinge door catch, lock cylinder rod, door lock rod, and both rear latch rods. 3. Install latch assembly-to-door attaching screws. Torque to specifications. 4. Install door lock knob and door handle. 5. Install access cover and trim panel. 6. Adjust door front striker as outlined under “Door Adjustments”. Rear Latch and/or Latch Actuating Rods Removal 1. Remove trim panel (if so equipped). 2. Remove front latch assembly access cover. 3. Disconnect rear latch rods from front latch assembly (Fig. 22). 4. Remove rear latch attaching screws. (Fig. 24) 5. Slide rear latch toward front of door until rod clips become exposed. Disconnect rod clips and remove latch from door. Installation 1. Connect rods to latch and install latch to door. Torque screws to specifications. 2. Connect rods to front latch assembly. 3. Install access covers and trim panels (if so equipped). 4. Adjust door rear latch as outlined under “Door Adjustments”. Upper Left Hinge Removal 1. Turn door handle and let door pop open. 2. Disengage spring from bolt using a commercially available spring removal tool; such as, a brake spring removal tool. 3. Close door. 4. Remove hinge assembly. Disassembly (Fig. 25) 1. Remove rod connecting hinge and roller assembly. 2. Remove roller. 3. Remove levers-noting position of the springs. 4. Remove nylon block. 5. Remove bushings by tapping out with a drift. 6. Reverse Steps 1-5 to reassembly. Torque all parts to specifications. 7. When holding hinge assembly as in Fig. 26, the lower latch must engage cam. Installation 1. Install hinge assembly to door. Torque bolts to specifications. 2. Check and adjust latch to striker position as outlined under “Door Adjustments”. 3. Turn handle and let door pop open. 4. Connect spring using a brake spring removal tool or a similar tool. 5. Check operation of door hinge. Door Strikers NOTE: All door lock strikers are important attaching parts in that they could affect the performance of vital components and systems, and/or could result in major repair expense. They must be replaced with parts of the same part numbers or with equivalent parts if replacement becomes necessary. Do not use replacement parts of lesser quality or substitute design. Torque values must be used as specified during reassembly to assure proper retention of these parts. Rear Lock Striker Removal 1. Open door. 2. Remove door striker using tool J-23457. Installation 1. Install door striker using tool J-23457. Torque to specifications (Fig. 19). 2. Adjust striker as outlined under “Door Adjustments”. Front Latch Striker 1. Remove striker. 2. Install new striker. Adjust as outlined under “Door Adjustments” “Fore and Aft”. Torque to specifications. Sliding Door Adjustments The side door can be adjusted for alignment and/or clearance in the body opening and for proper latching. When properly positioned in the body opening, the door should have equal clearances around its perimeter. Door adjustments consist of the following: Up and down, fore and aft, in and out, front and rear strikers, rear door wedge, upper left hinge striker, and lower catch.Fig. 25—Sliding Door Upper Left Hinge Components 1. Roller 8. Bolt 15. Screw 21. Cam 2. Lockwashers 9. Plate 16. Guide Block 22. Bushing 3. Nut 10. Upper lines 17. Hinge (Body Half) 23. Hinge (Door Half) 4. Cam 11. Spacer 18. Nut 24. Spring 5. Washer 12. Spring (Upper Lever) 19. Bushing 25. Spring retainer 6. Bushing 13. Spring (Lower Lever) 20. Bushing 26. Hinge liner 7. Bushing 14. Lower Lever Up and Down Front up and down adjustments (Fig. 27) are provided by means of slotted holes in the door. Rear up and down adjustments are provided by slotted holes in the upper left hinge. Fore and Aft Fore and aft adjustments are provided by loosening the upper left hinge striker (body mounted). In and Out Front in and out adjustments (Fig. 27) are provided by means of an adjustable lower roller mounting bracket, and for the upper front in and out adjustment the upper bracket is slotted so the roller can be moved in and out. Rear in and out adjustment is provided by adjusting the rear lock striker laterally. Front and Rear Striker The front striker provides latching for the front of the door. The rear striker latches the rear of the door as well as providing in and out adjustment. Rear Door Wedge The rear door wedge located below the door lock striker helps support the door.Reposition Door "Up" or "Down' 8. 9. Partially open door and loosen front latch striker on pillar. Remove upper left door hinge cover. Loosen upper left hinge to door bolts. Loosen rear lock striker and door wedge. Loosen upper front roller bracket to door bolts. Partially close door and align front up or down by loosening front lower hinge to door bolts. Torque bolts to specifications. Align rear of door up or down and tighten upper left hinge to door bolts. Torque bolts to specifications. Position upper front roller in center of track and tighten roller bracket to door Fig. 28. Torque bolts to specifications. Adjust front and rear strikers as outlined under “Front and Rear Striker Adjustment”. Reposition Door "Fore" or "Aft" 1. Partially open door and remove front latch striker and rear lock striker. 2. Loosen upper left hinge stop (on body). 3. Move door assembly forward or rearward as necessary. 4. Reinstall front and rear strikers and adjust as outlined .under “Front and Rear Striker Adjustment”. 5. Adjust upper left hinge stop as outlined under “Upper Left Hinge Latch and Stop Adjustment”. Reposition Door "In" or "Out" 1. Loosen front latch striker. 2. Loosen upper front roller from its bracket. 3. Loosen lower front roller bracket to arm bolts. 4. Adjust front of door in or out and tighten bolts. Torque to specifications. 5. Adjust rear of door in or out by adjusting rear lock striker. Fig. 26—Checking Assembly of Hinge Upper Left Hinge Striker This striker provides adjustment for fore and aft movement. Also, it acts as a stop for the hinge roller assembly. Lower Catch The lower catch, mounted on the lower front roller, holds the door in the full open position. The catch engages a striker installed at the rear of the lower roller channel.6. Adjust front upper roller so it travels in the center of its channel. (Fig. 28) 7. Adjust front and rear strikers as outlined under “Front and Rear Striker Adjustment”. 8. Adjust upper left hinge stop as outlined under “Upper Left Hinge Latch and Stop Adjustment.” Front and Rear Striker Adjustment Front Striker (Fig. 29) 1. Loosen front striker. 2. Visually align latch to striker relationship and adjust if necessary. 3. Slide door forward slowly. Guide on door (just above latch) must fit snugly within rubber lined opening on striker assembly. 4. Assure that latch catches fully. Add or delete shims behind striker as necessary. Rear Striker NOTE: The rear striker is adjustable vertically and transversly after loosening with Tool J-23457. Also, loosen door wedge located below striker. Fore and aft adjustment is obtained by adding or deleting washers between the bolt and body pillar. The striker must enter the lock.freely. Up and Down Adjustment 1. Loosen striker with Tool J-23457 (Fig. 19). 2. Center striker vertically to door striker opening. 3. Adjust laterally to match door outer panel and body side outer surfaces. 4. Adjust door wedge by aligning wedge on door with its striker on pillar. Centerline of wedge must enter center-line of striker opening on pillar. Fore and Aft Adjustment 5. Smear grease or paint on striker. 6. Gently push door in until lock just contacts striker enough to make an impression in the grease. 7. Open door and measure distance from rear of striker head to the impression. Distance should be a minimum of .20” and .30” maximum. (Fig. 30) 8. Adjust striker by adding or deleting washers between striker and pillar. 9. Torque striker and wedge to specifications. Upper Left Door Hinge Striker and Latch Adjustment (On Body) CAUTION: If door has been removed and is being reinstalled adjust striker to lower hinge lever before closing door. Failure to do so may cause possible lever breakage.1. Adjust hinge lower lever to striker contact by adding or deleting shims between the striker and body to provide at least .10 inch of lever contact. (Fig. 31). Also, striker must be positioned at least .06" above bottom of striker tang (Fig. 31). 2. Adjust fore and aft (centering door in opening) by moving striker horizontally. 3. If necessary to shim roller away from guide, shims are added between the nylon block and hinge and between roller and hinge. They must be installed in pairs. For example, if one shim is added behind the nylon block another must be added behind the roller. (Fig. 32). Lower Catch Adjustment 1. Loosen screws retaining catch rod bracket to door (Fig. 33). 2. Adjust catch to striker engagement by sliding bracket laterally. Catch should fully engage striker. SEATS Drivers Seat (Fig. 34) Seat Adjuster Removal 1. Remove seat by removing bolts securing seat to seat riser. 2. Remove seat belt from adjuster. 3. Remove adjuster from seat. Installation 1. Install seat adjuster to seat. Torque bolts to specifications. 2. Install seat belt. Torque retaining nut to specifications. CAUTION: Shoulder of bolt must bottom on weld nut. NOTE: This seat belt to seat fastener is an important attaching part in that it could affect the performance of vital components and systems, and/ or could result in major repair expense. It must be replaced with one of the same part number or with an equivalent part if replacement becomes necessary. Do not use a replacement part of lesser quality or substitute design. Torque values must be used as specified during reassembly to assure proper retention of this part. 3. Install seat onto seat riser, and torque screws to specifications.Fig. 35—Passengers Seat Seat Riser Removal 1. Remove seat and adjusters as an assembly by removing bolts securing seat to riser. 2. Remove bolts securing seat riser to floor. Installation 1. Install seat riser to floor. Torque bolts to specifications. 2. Install seat and torque bolts to specifications. Passenger Seat (Fig. 35). Mounting Brackets Removal 1. Remove seat and brackets from seat riser. 2. Remove brackets from seat. Installation 1. Install brackets to seat. Torque to specifications. 2. Install seat to seat riser. Torque to specifications. Seat Riser Removal 1. Remove seat and mounting bracket as an assembly. 2. Remove riser from floor. Installation 1. Install riser to floor. Torque bolts to specifications. 2. Install seat to riser. Torque bolts to specifications. Bench Seats (Fig. 36 and Fig. 37) Seat and/or Seat Support Removal 1. Remove bolts securing seat legs to floor. 2. Remove seat assembly. NOTE: After removing the rear seat, reinstall the bolts into the anchor nuts to seal the openings from dirt and foreign matter. 3. Remove legs and support assembly.Fig. 38—Loosening Weatherstrip Installation 1. Attach leg and support assembly to seat. Torque to specifications. 2. Attach seat belts. Torque bolts to specifications. CAUTION: Shoulder of bolt must bottom on weld nut. 1. Install reveal moldings into weatherstrip (if so equipped). 2. Install weatherstrip onto windshield. 3. Wrap a piece of heavy string or cord around circumference of the weatherstrip leaving a loop at the top and the loose ends at the bottom (Fig. 39). 4. Place glass into opening. With one technician lightly pushing in on glass, another technician inside should pull the cord as follows: a. Pull on loose ends (Fig. 40) until each is within 2" of respective corner. b. Finish seating corners by simultaneously pulling on both ends of the cord at each corner. 2. From inside vehicle apply pressure with palm of hand to bottom of glass and assist the lip of the weatherstrip over the flange with a flat bladed tool as shown in (Figure 38). With aid of helper to hold window, continue moving weatherstrip over flange until window is out of opening. 3. Remove weatherstrip from glass, and remove reveal moldings from weatherstrip if so equipped. 4. Clean flange in body opening. Installation 3. Attach seat to floor. Torque bolts to specifications. BODY WINDOWS Side Stationary Window Glass, Weatherstrip and Reveal Moldings Removal 1. From inside vehicle loosen weatherstrip from flange. NOTE: If equipped with reveal molding, do not attempt to remove moldings while glass is in body opening. The moldings can only be removed after removal of glass. Side Window Glass and Hinge-Swingout (Fig. 41) Removal 1. Swing out window. 2. Remove screws retaining latch to body. 3. Remove window hinge retaining screws and window. 4. Remove latch from glass. Installation 1. Install latch to glass using escutcheon, spacer, washer, latch and screw. Torque to specifications. 2. Place window into opening and install hinge retaining screws and window. 3. Install latch to glass.Fig. 41—Swingout Window Side Window Glass Weatherstrip (Swingout) Removal 1. Remove weatherstrip from window opening. 2. Clean window opening flange. Installation 1. Install new weatherstrip into opening. 2. Cement weatherstrip to flange. Apply to both sides of flange around entire perimeter of opening. Side Window Glass Latch (Swingout) Removal 1. Swing out window. 2. Remove latch to body and latch to window screws and remove latch. Installation 1. Attach latch to window using escutcheon, spacer, washer. 2. Attach latch to body. REAR DOORS Rear Door Hinge Strap (Fig. 42) Removal 1. Remove strap release pin. 2. Remove screws retaining strap to door. Installation 1. Install strap to door. Torque retaining screws to specifications. Rear Door Hinge (Fig. 42) Removal 1. Open door. Support door so that when hinge screws are removed door weight will be on support. 2. Remove hinge strap release pin. 3. Remove hinge to door bolts and remove door assembly. 4. Remove hinge to body bolts and hinge. Installation 1. Install grommet into door hinge opening (if removed). 2. Install hinge into door. Snug bolts. 3. Install grommet into body hinge opening (if removed). 4. Install hinge into body opening and install bolts. Snug bolts. 5. Install hinge strap and its retaining pin. 6. Adjust door and torque hinge bolts to specifications. Rear Door Remote Control (Fig. 43) Removal 1. Remove trim panel. 2. Disengage upper and lower latch rods from control by removing retaining clips. 3. Remove remote control by removing its retaining screws. Installation 1. Install remote control. Torque screws to specifications. 2. Reinstall upper and lower latch rods to control. 3. Install trim panel. Rear Door Upper or Lower Latches And/or Latch Rods (Fig. 43) Removal 1. Remove trim panel. 2. Disengage rod from remote control assembly.Fig. 43—Rear Door Remote Control and Latch 3. Remove latch retaining screws and withdraw latch and control rod. 4. Remove spring clip retaining rod to latch. Installation 1. Install latch rod to latch. NOTE: When reinstalling the lower latch rod to control, the short straight section attaches to the latch. 2. Install latch and rod assembly into door and connect rod to remote control. 3. Install latch retaining screws and torque to specifications. 4. Adjust latch to strikers. Rear Door Outside Handle Removal 1. Remove trim panel. 2. Remove door handle retaining screws, handle and gaskets. Installation 1. Apply grease to remote control where handle plunger makes contact. 2. Install handle and gaskets. Torque screws to specifications. 3. Install trim panel. Rear Door Lock Cylinder Removal 1. Remove trim panel. 2. Remove remote control. 3. Remove lock cylinder retainer and lock cylinder. Installation 1. Install lock cylinder and retainer. 2. Install remote control. Torque screws to specifications. 3. Install trim panel. Rear Door Glass and Weatherstrip Removal and installation procedures are the same as for the body side windows. Refer to those procedures for rear door glass and weatherstrip replacement. Rear Door Adjustments NOTE: Door adjustments are provided by slotted holes, at hinge attachment, in body and door. 1. Remove or loosen door strikers and wedges. 2. Loosen door hinge bolts and adjust door to provide equal clearances between body and door around perimeter of door. 3. Adjust door in and out so that door panel is flush with body. 4. Install door strikers and wedges and adjust as outlined under door striker adjustment. Rear Door Striker Adjustment NOTE: This striker to body fastener is an important attaching part in that it could affect the performance of vital components and systems, and/ or could result in major repair expense. It must be replaced with one of the same part number or with an equivalent part if replacement becomes necessary. Do not use a replacement part of lesser quality or substitute design. Torque values must be used as specified during reassembly to assure proper retention of this part. Fig. 44—Rear Door Strikers and Wedges2. Adjust striker by adding or deleting shims as necessary to obtain dimension as shown in Fig. 44. This dimension can be checked by applying grease to the latch and slowly closing door until striker fully engages latch. Then open door and measure from grease impression to bottom of latch slot. Torque to specifications. Adjust door wedge by adding or deleting shims as necessary so that wedge contacts bumper on door when door is closed (Fig. 45). Fig. 46—Special Tools 1. J-7797 Door Handle Clip Remover 2. J-22577 Windshield Checking Blocks 3. J-23457 Door Striker Bolt Remover and InstallerFRAME GENERAL DESCRIPTION The frame side rails, cross sills and outriggers are part of the underbody assembly which is a welded unit of the body assembly (see Section 1). Misalignment of the underbody can affect door opening fits and also influence the suspension system, causing suspension misalignment. It is essential, therefore, that underbody alignment be exact to within — 1/16” of the specified dimensions. UNDERBODY ALIGNMENT One method of determining the alignment of the underbody is with a tram gauge which should be sufficiently flexible to obtain all necessary measurements up to three quarters the length of the vehicle. A good tramming tool is essential for analyzing and determining the extent of collision misalignment present in underbody construction. MEASURING (Fig. 1) To measure the distance accurately between any two reference points on the underbody, two specifications are required. 1. The horizontal dimension between the two points to be trammed. 2. The vertical dimension from the datum line to the points to be trammed. The tram bar should be on a parallel to that of the body plane. The exception to this would be when one of the reference locations is included in the misaligned area; then the parallel plane between the body and the tram bar may not prevail. After completion of the repairs, the tram gauge should be set at the specified dimension to check the accuracy of the repair operation. EXCESSIVE BODY DAMAGE If damage is so extensive that key locations are not suitable as reference points, repair operations should always begin with the underbody area. All other components should be aligned progressively from this area. Unlike the conventional type of frame design, the unitized type of body construction seldom develops the two conditions of “twist” and “diamond” in the underbody area as a result of front or rear end collisions, therefou, there usually is an undamaged area suitable as a beginning reference point.Fig. 1—Underbody Reference PointsFRONT SUSPENSION INDEX Page General Description ..............................3-1 Maintenance and Adjustments......................3-2 Wheel Bearing Check Adjustment ................3-2 I runt Alignment Description.....................3-2 Alignment Preliminary Steps.....................3-2 ('aster and Camber ..........................3-3 How to Determine Caster.....................3-3 Toe-In....................................3-5 Definitions ................................3-5 Component Parts Replacement .....................3-5 Wheel Hubs & Bearings .........................3-5 Removal ..................................3-5 Inspection.................................3-5 Repairs...................................3-5 Bearing Cups Replace.....................3-5 Wheel Stud Replacement...................3-5 Installation ................................3-5 Shock Absorbers ..............................3-6 Removal ..................................3-6 Installation ................................3-6 Coil Spring Suspension Assembly .................3-6 Stabili/.cr..................................3-6 Removal................................3-6 Inspection ..............................3-6 Installation..............................3-6 Page Springs ...................................3-6 Removal................................3-6 Installation..............................3-7 Lower Control Arm Assembly .................3-7 Removal................................3-7 Repairs.................................3-7 Installation..............................3-7 Upper Control Arm Assembly..................3-7 Removal................................3-7 Repairs.................................3-7 Installation..............................3-8 Upper and Lower Control Arm Inner Pivot Shaft Replacement........................3-8 Ball Joint Inspection.........................3-9 Steering Knuckle/Steering Arm..................3-10 Removal .................................3-10 Installation ...............................3-11 Crossmcmbcr and Suspension Unit ...............3-11 Removal .................................3-11 Installation ...............................3-11 Special Tools ..................................3-12 GENERAL DESCRIPTION The Chevrolet Chevy Van and Sportvan line incorporates an independent coil front suspension system. (Fig. I). The unequal length control arm coil spring independent suspension is used on all 10. 20 and 30 series Vans. This suspension system consists of upper and lower control arms pivoting on steel threaded bushings on upper and lower control arm shafts which are attached to the crossmember with U-bolts. These control arms arc connected to the steering knuckle through pivoting ball joints. A coil spring is located between the lower control arm and a formed seat in the suspension crossmember, thus the lower control arm is the load carrying member. The double acting shock absorbers are also attached to the lower control arms and connect with the frame to the rear on the upper end. The front wheel bearings are tapered roller type on the above models. CONTROL ARMS SHOCKMAINTENANCE AND ADJUSTMENTS CAUTION: All front suspension attachments are important attaching parts in that they could affect the performance of vital components and systems, and/or could result in major repair expense. They must be replaced with parts of the same part numbers or with equivalent parts if replacement becomes necessary. Do not use replacement parts of lesser quality or substitute design. Torque values must be used as specified during reassembly to assure proper retention of these parts. WHEEL BEARINGS—CHECK ADJUSTMENT CAUTION: Tapered roller bearings are used on all series and they have a slightly loose feel when properly adjusted. This differs from ball bearings which may be pre-loaded without adverse effect. A design feature of front wheel taper roller bearings is that they must NEVER be pre-loaded. Damage can result by the steady thrust on roller ends which comes from pre-loading. 1. Raise car and support at front lower control arm. 2. Spin wheel to check for unusual noise. 3. If bearings are noisy or excessively loose, they should be cleaned and inspected prior to adjustment. NOTE: To check for loose bearings, grip the tire at the top and bottom and move the wheel assembly in and out on the spindle. Movement greater than .008" indicates a loose bearing. If necessary to inspect bearings, see REPLACEMENT OF BEARINGS. ADJUSTMENT 1. 2. 3. 4. 5. 6. 7. 8. 9. 10. Raise car and support at front lower control arm. Remove hub cap or wheel disc from wheel. Remove dust cap from hub. Remove cotter pin from spindle and spindle nut. Adjust bearing as shown in Fig. 2. Insert new cotter pin and bend ends against nut. Cut off extra length to ensure ends will not interfere with dust cap. Install dust cap on hub. Install hub cap or wheel disc. Lower car to ground. Repeat this procedure for the other wheel. FRONT ALIGNMENT DESCRIPTION Satisfactory vehicle operation may occur over a wide range of front end (wheel) alignment settings. Nevertheless, should settings vary beyond certain tolerances, readjustment of alignment is advisable. The specifications stated in column 1 of the applicable vehicle chart in the specifications section of this manual should be used by owners, dealers and repairmen as guidelines in vehicle diagnosis either for repairs under the new vehicle warranty or for maintenance service at customer’s request. These specifications provide an acceptable all-around operating range in that they prevent abnormal tire wear caused by wheel alignment. Governmental Periodic Motor Vehicle inspection programs usually include wheel alignment among items that are inspected. To provide useful information for such inspections, the specifications stated in column 2 of the aforesaid applicable chart are given and these are well within the range of safe vehicle operation. In the event the actual settings are beyond the specifications set forth in column 1 or 2 (whichever is applicable), or whenever for other reasons the alignment is being reset, Chevrolet recommends that the specifications given in column 3 of the aforesaid applicable chart be used. Alignment Preliminary Steps Several different types of machines are available for checking all the factors of front end alignment. The instructions 'Vifurnished with each particular machine should be followed. In all cases, however, checks should be made on a level surface with the vehicle at curb weight. Before checking and adjusting alignment, such components as wheel bearings, spring height, tie rods, steering gear, shock absorbers and tire inflation should be inspected and corrected where necessary. Caster and Camber—Figure 3 Positive caster is the amount in degrees of the backward tilt of the knuckle. Positive camber is the amount in degrees that the front wheels are tilted outward at the top from a vertical position. Both angle adjustments are necessary for steering stability and safe vehicle handling. Caster and camber adjustments are made by means of shims located between the upper control arm shaft and the mounting bracket attached to the suspension crossmember. Measure caster and camber as follows (refer to Figure 3): FRONT ALIGNMENT 10-30 Series All caster specifications are given assuming a frame angle of zero. Therefore, it will be necessary to know the angle of the frame (whether “up” in rear or “down” in rear) before a corrected caster reading can be determined. Camber and toe can be read “as is” from the alignment equipment. How to Determine Caster 1. With the vehicle on a level surface, determine the frame angle, “B” in Fig. 5, using a bubble protractor or clinometer. 2. Draw yourself a graphic as in Fig. 5 that is representative of the frame angle (either “up” in rear or “down” in rear). 3. Determine the caster angle from the alignment equipment and draw a line that is representative of the caster reading. 4. To determine an “actual (corrected) caster reading” with various frame angles and caster readings, one of the following rules apply: a. A "down in rear" frame angle must be subtracted from a positive caster reading. b. An "up in rear" frame angle must be added to a positive caster reading. c. A "down in rear" frame angle must be added to a negative caster reading. CASTER PIVOT SHAFT OUTBOARD OF FRAME A,CASTER ALIGNMENT READING = + 2,/4° CASTER ALIGNMENT READING = +2° FRAME ANGLE =1'/»° DOWN FRAME ANGLE = 10 UP ACTUAL CASTER ANGLE IS +1° ACTUAL CASTER ANGLE IS +3° CASTER ALIGNMENT READING = - l'/4° CASTER ALIGNMENT READING = ->/4° FRAME ANGLE = Vi° DOWN FRAME ANGLE =1'/4° UP ACTUAL CASTER ANGLE IS +1° ACTUAL CASTER ANGLE IS-l3/4° »CROSSMEMBER ANGLE "B' BUMP STOP' BRACKET 'BOTTOM OF FRAME LOWER CONTROL ARM ■POSITIVE CASTERd. An "up in rear" frame angle must be subtracted from a negative caster reading. 5. Add or subtract as necessary to arrive at the corrected caster angle. 6. Measure dimension “A” (bump stop bracket to frame) and check the specifications for that dimension. 7. Correct the actual caster angle, as arrived at in Step 4. as necessary to keep within the specifications by adding or subtracting shims from the front or rear bolt on the upper control arm shaft. Camber 1. Determine the camber angle from the alignment equipment. 2. Add or subtract shims from both the front and rear bolts to affect a change. Toe-in 1. Determine the wheel toe-in from the alignment equipment. 2. Change the length of both tie rod sleeves to affect a toe change. Torque tie rod clamps to specifications. Trucks within these tolerances from the mean specification are safe and not hazardous with respect to alignment effects on operation and handling. Settings outside these limits are not necessarily unsafe; however, customer dissatisfaction, due to steering pull or tire wear may occur or the vehicle may be in a damaged condition. Definitions Service Checking Values within these limits should provide a high level of customer satisfaction and should not require resetting. Service Reset Values that the vehicle should be set within if it is observed out of the service checking tolerance, or if it is being aligned due to replacement of components, or for any other reasons. Venicle Inspection Tolerances For government inspection station usage. COAAPONENT PARTS REPLACEMENT CAUTION: This hub to spindle fastener is an important attaching part in that it could affect the performance of vital components and systems, and/or could result in major repair expense. It must be replaced with one of the same part number or with an equivalent part if replacement becomes necessary. Do not use a replacement part of lesser quality or substitute design. Torque values must be used as specified during reassembly to assure proper retention of this part. WHEEL HUBS & BEARINGS Removal 1. Raise vehicle on hoist and remove wheel and tire assembly. Remove dust cap from end of hub and withdraw cotter pin. 2. Remove the brake caliper and hang by a wire to the suspension. 3. Remove hub and disc assembly. 4. Remove outer bearing from hub. The inner bearing will remain in the hub and may be removed by prying out the inner grease seal. 5. Wash all parts in cleaning solvent. Inspection 1. Check all bearings for cracked bearing cages, worn or pitted rollers. 2. Check bearing races for cracks or scoring, check brake discs for out-of-round or scored condition and check bearing outer races for looseness in hubs. Repairs Replacement of Bearing Cups If necessary to replace an outer race, drive out old race from the hub with a brass drift inserted behind race in notches in hub. Install new race by driving it into hub with the proper race installer. Remove the inner race in the same manner. CAUTION: Use care when installing new race to start it squarely into hub, to avoid distortion and possible cracking. Thoroughly lubricate bearing assemblies with new high melting point wheel-bearing lubricant. Remove any excess lubricant.NOTE: Be sure bearing parts have been thoroughly cleaned and air-dried. Wheel Stud Replacement (Fig. 6) NOTE: Use a piece of water pipe or other similar tool to support the hub while pressing a wheel stud either in or out. Installation 1. Pack inner and outer wheel bearings with recommended grease (see Section 0). 2. Place inner bearing in hub and install new seal assembly, tapping into place with soft hammer. 3. Position hub and disc on spindle and install outer bearing, pressing it firmly into position in hub. 4. Install hub washer, nut and cotter pin. 5. Install brake caliper and wheel and tire. 6. Adjust wheel bearings as outlined under Wheel Bearings—Adjust. Then lower vehicle to floor. SHOCK ABSORBERS-Figure 7 Removal 1. Remove nuts and eye bolts securing upper and lower shock absorber eyes. 2. Withdraw shock absorber and inspect rubber eye bushings. If defective, replace shock absorber assembly. Installation Place shock absorber into position in mounting brackets. Install eye bolts and nuts and torque as shown in Specifications Section. COIL SPRING SUSPENSION ASSEMBLY CAUTION: All front suspension attachments are important attaching parts in that they could affect the performance of vital components and systems, and/or could result in major repair expense. They must be replaced with parts of the same part numbers or with equivalent parts if replacement becomes necessary. Do not use replacement parts of lesser quality or substitute design. Torque values must be used as specified during reassembly to assure proper retention of these parts. Front Stabilizer Bar Removal 1. Place vehicle on hoist and remove nuts and bolts attaching stabilizer brackets and bushings at frame location. 2. Remove brackets and bushings at lower control arms and remove stabilizer from vehicle. Inspection Inspect rubber bushings for excessive wear or aging replace where necessary. Use rubber lubricant when installing bushings over stabilizer bar. Installation 1. Place stabilizer in position on frame and install frame brackets over bushings. Install nuts and bolts loosely. 2. Install brackets over bushings at lower control arm location. Be sure brackets are positioned properly over bushings. Tighten all nuts and bolts securely. 3. Lower vehicle to floor. Spring Fig. 8 Removal 1. Place vehicle on hoist and place jack stands under frame, allowing control arms to hang free. 2. Disconnect shock absorber at lower end. 3. Bolt Tool J-23028 to a suitable jack. 4. Place tool under cross-shaft so that the cross-shaft seats in the grooves of the tool. As a safety precaution install a chain through the spring and lower control arm. 5. Raise the jack to remove tension on the lower control arm cross-shaft and remove the two “U” bolts securing the cross-shaft to crossmember. 6. Lower control arm by slowly releasing the jack until spring can be removed.7. Remove spring. Installation 1. Properly position spring on the control arm, and lift control arm. 2. Position control arm cross-shaft to crossmember and install “U” bolts and attaching nuts. Make certain front indexing hole in cross-shaft is lined up with crossmember attaching saddle stud. 3. Torque nut to specifications. 4. Install shock absorber to lower control arm and install stabilizer bar if so equipped. 5. Remove tool. 6. Lower vehicle to floor. LOWER CONTROL ARM ASSEMBLY CAUTION: All control arm attachments are important attaching parts in that they could affect the performance of vital components and systems, and/ or could result in major repair expense. They must be replaced with parts of the same part numbers or with equivalent parts if replacement becomes necessary. Do not use replacement parts of lesser quality or substitute design. Torque values must be used as specified during reassembly to assure proper retention of these parts. Removal 1. Place vehicle on hoist and remove spring as outlined under spring removal. 2. Remove cotter pin from lower ball stud and loosen stud nut until top of nut is slightly above top of the stud. 3. Install Ball Stud Remover J-23742, position — large cup end of the tool over the upper ball stud nut and piloting the threaded end of tool on end of the lower ball stud. Extend bolt from Tool J-23742 to loosen lower ball stud in steering knuckle. When stud is loosened, remove tool and nut from lower stud. 4. Remove control arm. Installation 1. Install lower ball stud through steering knuckle and tighten nut. 2. Install spring and control arm as outlined under spring installation. 3. Torque lower control arm ball stud to specifications and install new cotter pin. 4. Lower vehicle to floor. UPPER CONTROL ARM ASSEMBLY CAUTION: All control arm attachments are important attaching parts in that they could affect the performance of vital components and systems, and/ or could result in major repair expense. They must be replaced with parts of the same part numbers or with equivalent parts if replacement becomes necessary. Do not use replacement parts of lesser quality or substitute design. Torque values must be used as specified during reassembly to assure proper retention of these parts. Removal 1. Place vehicle on hoist, remove wheel and tire assembly and support lower control arm assembly with adjustable jackstand. 2. Remove cotter pin from upper control arm ball stud and loosen stud nut one turn. 3. Loosen upper control arm ball stud in steering knuckle, using Tool- 23742 position as shown in Figure 10. Remove the nut from the ball stud and raise upper arm to clear steering knuckle. 4. Remove nuts securing control arm shaft to frame. Withdraw control arm assembly. REMOVE, UPPER REMOVEl LOWER I HEAVY I FLAT WASHER] J-23742]NOTE: Tape shims and spacers together and tag for proper relocation when control arm is reinstalled. Installation 1. Place control arm in position on bracket and install nuts. Before tightening nuts, insert caster and camber shims in the same order as when removed. 2. Insert ball joint stud into steering knuckle and install nut. See specifications for torque values. Install new cotter pin. 3. Remove adjustable support from under control arm. Install wheel and tire assembly. 4. Lower vehicle and check front end alignment and adjust where necessary. 5. Lower vehicle to floor. UPPER AND LOWER CONTROL ARM INNER PIVOT SHAFT REPLACEMENT Lower Removal 1. Raise vehicle and support the frame so that control arms hang free. 2. Position an adjustable floor jack under the control arm inboard of spring and into depression in lower arm. 3. Install a chain over upper arm. Inboard of stabilizer and outboard of shock absorber as a safety measure. 4. Loosen shaft end nuts. 5. Remove “U” bolts. 6. Lower jack just enough to get at shaft. 7. Remove shaft end nuts and remove shaft. Repairs Bushings 1. Remove grease fittings from bushing outer ends and unscrew bushings from control arm and shaft. 2. Slide new seal on each end of shaft and insert shaft into control arm. 3. Start new bushings on shaft and into control arm. Adjust shaft until it is centered in control arm, then turn bushings in and torque to specifications. Figure 11 shows correct final positioning of shaft. Check shaft for free rotation and install grease fittings. Installation 1. Install shaft to control arm and install end nuts. Do not torque nuts at this time. 2. Raise jack and position shaft into crossmember saddle. Be sure to index hole in shaft to mate with bolt head in saddle. 3. Install “U” bolts. Do not torque nuts at this time. 4. Torque cross shaft end nuts. NOTE: The shaft should rotate by hand after the nuts are torqued. 5. Torque “U” bolt nuts. 6. Remove chain. 7. Remove floor jack and lower vehicle to floor. Upper-Removal 1. Raise vehicle and remove tire. 2. Support the lower control arm with a floor jack.NOTE: Position jack under the ball joint assembly or as near as possible and still have good support. 3. Loosen the upper control arm shaft end nuts before loosening the shaft to frame attaching nuts. 4. Loosen the shaft to frame nuts and remove the caster and camber shims. NOTE: Tape the shims together as they are removed and mark for position. 5. Remove the pivot shaft to frame nuts but do not allow the arm to swing too far away from the frame. NOTE: Use a chain to retain the arm in a close relationship to the frame if necessary. 6. Remove the shaft end nuts and remove shaft from arm. Repairs Bushings 1. Remove grease fittings from ends of bushings and unscrew bushings from shaft and control arm. Remove shaft and seals. 2. Slide new seal on each end of shaft and insert shaft into control arm. 3. Start new bushings on shaft and into control arm. Adjust shaft until it is centered in control arm, then turn bushings in and torque. See Specifications. Check shaft for free rotation. Figure 15 shows correct final positioning of shaft. Installation 1. Install the shaft to the control arm and install end nuts. Do not torque nuts at this time. 2. Position cross shaft to frame bolts and start cross shaft nuts. 3. Torque the shaft end nuts. NOTE: The shaft should rotate by hand after the nuts are torqued. 4. Install caster and camber shim in their appropriate places. 5. Torque the cross shaft to frame nuts. 6. Install the tire. 7. Remove floor jack and lower vehicle to the floor. BALL JOINTS Ball Joint—Inspection Lower Lower ball joints are a loose fit when not connected to the steering knuckle. Wear may be checked without disassembling the ball stud, as follows: 1. Support weight of control arms at wheel hub and drum. 2. Measure distance between tip of ball stud and tip of grease fitting below ball joint. 3. Move support to control arm to allow wheel hub and drum to hang free. Measure distance as in Step 2. If the difference in measurements exceeds .094’’ (3/32”) lor all models, ball joint is worn and should be replaced. Ball Joint Replacement Lower-Removal (Fig. 12) 1. Raise vehicle on a hoist. If a frame hoist is used, it will be necessary to support the lower control arm with a floor stand. 2. Remove the tire and wheel. 3. Remove the lower stud cotter pin and loosen (two turns) but do not remove the stud nut. 4. Install J-23742 between the ball studs as shown in Figure 9). CAUTION: Before proceeding with Step 5, be sure lower control arm is supported as pointed out in Step 1. CUT TOOL ON DOTTED LINE Fig. 13-Alteration to Tool J-9519-10 Fig. 14—Installing New Ball Joint •Yi J-9519-105. Extend bolt from tool J-23742 to loosen ball stud in steering knuckle. When stud is loosened, remove tool and ball stud nut. 6. Pull the brake disc and knuckle assembly up off the ball stud and support the upper arm with a block of wood so that assembly is out of working area. CAUTION: Do not put undue stress on the brake line flex hose. 7. Install tools J-9519-lO and J-9519-7 as shown in Fig. 12. NOTE: It will be necessary to alter tool J-9519-10 as illustrated in Fig. 13 and install a 3" ID pipe as shown if working on a 20 or 30 series vehicle. 8. Turn hex head screw until ball joint is free of control arm. 9. Remove tools and ball joint. Installation (Fig. 14) 1. Start the new ball joint into the control arm and install J-9519-10 and J-9519-9 as shown. NOTE: Position bleed vent in rubber boot facing inward. 2. Turn hex head screw until ball joint is seated in control arm. 3. Lower the upper arm and mate the steering knuckle to the lower ball stud. 4. Install ball stud nut and torque as follows: All series, 80-100 ft. lbs. plus additional torque to align cotter pin hole not to exceed 130 ft. lbs. maximum. Never back off to align cotter pin. 5. Install a lube fitting and lube the joint. 6. Install tire and wheel and lower vehicle to floor. Upper-Removal 1. Raise vehicle on hoist. If a frame hoist is used, it will be necessary to support the lower control arm with a floor jack. 2. Remove cotter pin from upper ball stud and loosen stud nut (two turns) but do not remove nut. 3. Install J-23742 between the ball studs as shown in Figure 9. CAUTION: Before proceeding with Step 4, be sure lower control arm is supported as pointed out in Step 1. 4. Extend bolt from tool J-23742 to loosen ball stud in steering knuckle. When stud is loose, remove tool and stud nut. 5. Center punch rivet heads and drill out rivets. 6. Remove ball joint assembly. Installation 1. Install new service ball joint, using bolts and nuts supplied with joint, to upper arm. Torque nuts to 45 ft. lbs. 2. Mate ball stud to steering knuckle and install stud nut. 3. Torque the ball stud nut as follows: 10 Series 40-60 ft. lbs. plus additional torque to align cotter pin not to exceed 90 ft. lbs. Never back off to align cotter pin. 20-30 Series 80-100 ft. lbs. plus additional torque to align cotter pin not to exceed 130 ft. lbs. Never back off to align pin. 4. Install cotter pin. 5. Install lube fitting and lube new joint. 6. Install tire and wheel. 7. Lower vehicle to floor. STEERING KNUCKLE/STEERING ARM CAUTION: It is recommended that vehicle be raised and supported on a twin-post hoist so that the front coil spring remains compressed, yet the wheel and steering knuckle assembly remain accessible. If a frame hoist is used, support lower control arm with an adjustable jackstand to safely retain spring in its curb height position. Removal 1. Raise vehicle on hoist and support lower control arm as noted above. 2. Remove hub cap wheel cover and wheel nuts. 3. Withdraw wheel and tire, remove caliper as outlined under “Front Wheel Hub” assembly from steering knuckle spindle. 4. Remove disc splash shield bolts securing the shield to the steering knuckle. 5. Refer to Section 9—Steering Linkage - Tie Rod, for service operations. 6. Remove upper and lower ball studs cotter pins and <3DFRONT SUSPENSION 3-11 loosen ball stud nuts. Free steering knuckle from ball studs by installing Special Tool J-23742. Remove ball stud nuts and withdraw steering knuckle. Installation CAUTION: All steering knuckle/steering arm attachments, including anchor pin, are important attaching part in that it could affect the performance of vital components and systems, and/or could result in major repair expense. It must be replaced with one of the same part number or with an equivalent part if replacement becomes necessary. Do not use a replacement part of lesser quality or substitute design. Torque values must be used as specified during reassembly to assure proper retention of this part. 1. Place steering knuckle in position and insert upper and lower bail studs into knuckle bosses. CAUTION: Steering knuckle hole, ball stud and nut should be free of dirt and grease before tightening nut. 2. Install ball stud nuts and tighten nut to specifications. (See Specification Section.) NOTE: If necessary, tighten one more notch to insert cotter pins. Do not loosen nut to insert cotter pin. Refer to Ball Joint text for proper nut installation. 3. Reverse above removal procedure, and tighten splash shield mounting bolt. Tighten two caliper assembly mounting bolts to 35 ft. lb. torque. 4. Adjust wheel bearings as outlined under Front Wheel Bearing Adjustment. 5. Tighten wheel nuts to 75 ft. lb. CROSSMEMBER AND SUSPENSION UNIT Component parts of the front suspension may be serviced separately as outlined in the preceding service operations. However, if extensive service is to be performed to crossmember, frame, etc., the unit can be removed and installed as follows: Removal 1. Place vehicle on hoist and remove the shock absorber from the lower control arm. 2. Remove idler arm and pitman arm. 3. Support engine and remove front engine mount center bolts. 4. Separate main brake feeder line from crossmember tee. 5. Remove bolts retaining crossmember hangers to frame side rails. 6. Remove bolts securing crossmember to frame bottom rail and lower the assembly from vehicle. Installation CAUTION: All crossmember to frame attachments are important attaching parts in that they could affect the performance of vital components and systems, and/or could result in major repair expense. They must be replaced with parts of the same part numbers or with equivalent parts if replacement becomes necessary. Do not use replacement parts of lesser quality or substitute design. Torque values must be used as specified during reassembly to assure proper retention of these parts. 1. Jack crossmember into position under frame and install frame bottom rail mounting bolts. 2. Install bolts securing crossmember hanger to frame and torque nuts. See specifications. 3. Position engine on front mount and install mounting bolt and torque 45 lb. ft. 4. Install the shock absorber. 5. Connect front brake main feeder line and bleed brakes as described in Section 5. 6. Install idler arm and pitman arm. 7. Check and Adjust front end alignment as outlined under “Maintenance and Adjustments” in this section. 8. Remove vehicle from hoist.1. J-8457 Bearing Race Installer 6. J-9519-9 Ball Joint Installer 2. J-8458 Bearing Race Installer 7. J-9519-10 "C" Clamp 3. J-8849 Bearing Race Installer 8. J-9519-7 Ball Joint Remover 4. J-9276-2 Bearing Race Installer 9. J-23028 Spring Remover 5. J-8092 Driver Handle 10. J-23742-1 Ball Joint Remover Fig. 16—Special ToolsSECTION 4 REAR SUSPENSION AND DRIVELINE CONTENTS OF THIS SECTION Page 4-1 4-3 4-15 Rear Suspension Axle....... Propeller Shafts REAR SUSPENSION INDEX Page Page Component Parts Replacement ...............4-1 Bushing Replacement ...................4-2 Shock Absorber ......................4-1 Leaf.............................4-2 Springs and/or Shackle ..................4-1 Specifications ............ See Specification Section COMPONENT PARTS REPLACEMENT Shock Absorber (Fig. 1) Removal 1. Raise vehicle on hoist. 2. Remove shock absorber pivot bolt nuts and washers; pull bolts and remove from vehicle. Installation 1. Position eye of large end of shock absorber up. Install plain washer between shock and frame. Then, install bolt, plain washer, lockwasher and nut onto bolt. 2. Align opposite end of shock absorber with bracket at axle, install bolt, washer and nut. 3. Tighten nuts to specifications. 4. Lower vehicle and remove from hoist. Leaf Spring and/or Shackle NOTE: All spring attachments, including center bolts, are important attaching parts in that they could affect the performance of vital components and systems, and/or could result in major repair expense. They must be replaced with parts of the same part numbers or with equivalent parts if replacement becomes necessary. Do not use replacement parts of lesser quality or substitute design. Torque values must be used as specified during reassembly to assure proper retention of these parts. Removal (Fig. 2) 1. Raise vehicle on hoist so that tension in spring is relieved. Support Axle with adjustable lifting device. 2. Loosen, but do not remove, spring-to-shackle retaining nut. 3. Remove nut and bolt securing shackle to spring hanger. 4. Remove nut and bolt securing spring to front hanger. 5. Remove “U” bolt retaining nuts, withdraw “U” bolts and spring plate from spring-to-axle housing attachment. 6. Withdraw spring from vehicle. 7. Inspect spring—replace bushings, repair or replace spring unit as outlined in this section. Installation 1. Position spring assembly on axle housing. Make sure spring is in position at both spring hangers.Fig. 2—Spring Installation NOTE: The shackle assembly must be attached to the rear spring eye before installing shackle to rear hanger. 2. Install shackle bolt and nut and position spring aligning front eye—install front eye bolt and nut. 3. Install spring retainer plate and “U” bolts. 4. Torque all bolts to specifications. 5. Lower vehicle so that weight of vehicle is on suspension components and torque affected suspension parts to specifications. 6. Lower vehicle and remove from hoist. Bushing Replacement 1. Remove spring as previously outlined. 2. Place spring on press and press out bushing using a suitable rod, pipe or tool. 3. Press in new bushing; assure that tool presses on steel outer shell of bushing. Spring Leaf Replacement 1. Place spring assembly in a bench mounted vise and remove spring clips. 2. Position spring in vise jaws, compressing leaves at center and adjacent to center bolt. 3. File peened end of center bolt and remove nut. Open vise slowly to allow spring assembly to expand. 4. Wire brush and clean spring leaves. Inspect spring leaves to determine if replacement is required; also replace defective spring leaf liners at this time. 5. Align center holes in spring leaves by means of a long drift and compress spring leaves in a vise. 6. Remove drift from center hole and install a new center bolt-peen bolt to retain nut. 7. Align spring leaves by tapping with hammer, then bend spring clips into place or install bolts and spacer if so equipped. NOTE: Spring clips should be bent sufficiently to maintain alignment, but not tight enough to bind ^ spring action. AREAR AXLE INDEX Page Service Information......................4-3 Maintenance and Adjustments................4-3 Lubricant..........................4-3 U-Bolts and Hub Nuts .................4-3 Rear Axle Noise Diagnosis...............4-3 Component Parts Replacement ...............4-5 Series 10-20 Axles.....................4-5 Axle Removal......................4-5 Axle Vent ........................4-6 Axle Shaft........................4-6 Oil Seal and/or Bearing.................4-6 Brake Flange Backing Plate ..............4-6 Wheel Bolt Replacement................4-7 Pinion Flange, Dust Deflector and/or Oil Seal .... 4-7 Page Positraction Differential Unit .............4-9 Series 30 Axles.......................4-10 Axle Assembly Removal................4-11 Axle Vent ........................4-11 Axle Shaft........................4-12 Bearing Cup .......................4-12 Drum Non-demountable Type.............4-13 Wheel Bolt........................4-13 Hub Stud.........................4-13 Wheel Hub Oil Seal...................4-13 Bearing Adjustment...................4-14 Drive Pinion Oil Seal ..................4-14 No-Spin Differential Unit ...............4-15 SERVICE INFORMATION 10 and 20 Series The Salisbury-Type axle (fig. 3) used on 10 and 20 Series Models is a semifloating, fabricated type consisting of a cast carrier with large bosses on each end into which welded steel tubes are fitted. The carrier contains an overhung hypoid pinion and ring gear. The differential is a two pinion arrangement. The axle housing is made up of two steel welded tubes pressed into the crossbore of the cast carrier—each tube is puddle welded to the carrier. Welded-on brackets provide attachment points for suspension components such as spring seats, and shock absorbers. A welded flange is provided for brake flange plate attachment. The overhung hypoid drive pinion is supported by two preloaded tapered roller bearings. The pinion shaft is sealed by means of a molded, spring loaded, rubber seal. The seal is mounted on the pinion flange which is splined and bolted to the hypoid pinion shaft. The hypoid ring gear is bolted to a one-piece differential case which is supported by two preloaded tapered roller bearings. 30 Series The 30 Series, 5200 lb. capacity rear axle (fig. 17) is of the full floating type with hypoid ring gear and drive pinion. The full floating construction enables easy removal of axle shafts without removing truck load and without jacking up the axle. The differential carrier is heavily ribbed to provide rigid support for the differential assembly-differential caps are doweled to the carrier to assure perfect alignment. The straddle-mounted drive pinion is supported at the front by two opposed tapered roller bearings. The pinion rear bearing is a roller bearing assembly consisting of an outer race and roller assembly—a precision ground diameter on the pinion pilot functions as an inner race. A thrust pad mounted on the end of an adjustable screw threaded into the carrier housing limits deflection of the ring gear under high torque conditions. MAINTENANCE AND ADJUSTMENT Lubricant The lubricant level should be periodically checked and maintained at level of filler plug with a warm axle. See the lubrication section of this manual for lubricant recommendations. Lubricant Leaks Lubricant leaks should be checked for at the pinion flange oil seal, sealing area of joint between differential carrier and axle housing, lubricant filler plug, housing bowl cover, and at axle shaft bearings. Correction of these leaks consists of replacing the defective seals or gaskets involved as described in this section. U-Bolts and Hub Nuts Axle housing to rear spring “U” bolts and wheel hub nuts should be periodically inspected for secure installation. Rear Axle Noise Diagnosis Mechanical failures of the rear axle are relatively simple to locate and correct. Noise in a rear axle is a little more difficult to diagnose and repair. One of the most essential parts of rear axle service is proper diagnosis. ViSHIM AND SERVICE SPACER Fig. 3—Rear Axle Cross Section (Series 10-20) 1. Companion Flange 7. Differential Case 13. Cover 19. Thrust Washer 2. Deflector 8. Shim (A) with Service Shim 14. Pinion Shaft 20. Differential Pinion 3. Pinion Oil Seal 9. Gasket 15. Ring Gear 21. Shim 4. Pinion Front Bearing 10. Differential Bearing 16. Side Gear 22. Pinion Rear Bearing 5. Pinion Bearing Spacer 11. "C" Lock 17. Bearing Cap 23. Drive Pinion 6. Differential Carrier 12. Pinion Shaft Lock Bolt 18. Axle Shaft One of the cardinal points of axle noise diagnosis is the fact that all rear axles are noisy to a certain degree. The action of transmitting the high engine torque through a 90° turn reducing propeller shaft speed produces noise in rear axles. This point establishes the need for a line between normal and abnormal or unacceptable axle noises. Slight axle noise heard only at a certain speed or under remote conditions must be considered normal. Axle noise tends to “peak” at varying speeds and the noise is in no way indicative of trouble in the axle. If noise is present in an objectionable form, loud or at all speeds, an effort should be made to isolate the noise as being in one particular unit of the vehicle. Axle noise is often confused with other noises such as tire noise, transmission noise, propeller shaft vibration and universal joint noise. Isolation of the noise as in any one unit requires skill and experience. An attempt to eliminate a slight noise may baffle even the best of diagnosticians. Such practice as raising tire pressure to eliminate tire noise, listening for the noise at varying speeds and on drive, float and coast, and under properhighway conditions, turning the steering wheel from left to right detect wheel bearing noise, will aid even the beginner in delecting alleged axle noises. Axle noises fall into two categories: gear noise and bearing noise. Gear Noise Abnormal gear noise can be recognized since it produces a cycling pitch (whine) and will be very pronounced in the speed range at which it occurs, appearing under either “drive,” “float” or “coast” conditions. Gear noise tends to peak in a narrow speed range or ranges, while bearing noise will tend to remain constant in pitch. Abnormal gear noise is rare and usually originates from the scoring of the ring gear and pinion teeth as a result of insufficient or improper lubricant in new assemblies. Side gears rarely give trouble as they are used only when the rear wheels travel at different speeds. Bearing Noise Defective bearings produce a rough growl that is constant in pitch and usually most noticeable under “drive” conditions. This fact will allow you to distinguish between bearing noise and gear noise. 1. Pinion bearing noise resulting from a bearing failure can be identified by a constant rough sound. Pinion bearings are rotating at a higher speed than differential side bearings or axle shaft bearings. This particular noise can be picked up best by testing the car on a smooth road (black top). However, care should be taken not to confuse tire noise with bearing or gear noise. If any doubt exists, tire treads should be examined for irregularities that would produce such noise. 2. Wheel bearing noise may be confused with rear axle noise. To differentiate between wheel bearings and rear axle, drive the vehicle on a smooth road at medium-low speed. With traffic permitting, turn the vehicle sharply right and left. If noise is caused by wheel bearings, it will increase in the turns because of the side loading. If noise cannot be isolated to front or rear wheel bearings, inspection will be necessary. 3. Side bearings will produce a constant rough noise of a slower nature than pinion bearings. Side bearing noise will not fluctuate in the above wheel bearing test. COMPONENT PARTS REPLACEMENT SERIES G10-G20 (SALISBURY-TYPE) AXLES (FIG. 3) Axle Assembly Construction of the axle assembly is such that service operations may be performed with the housing installed in the vehicle or with the housing installed in a holding fixture. The following removal and installation procedure is necessary only when the housing requires replacement. NOTE: All Axle attachments are important attaching parts in that they could affect the performance of vital components and systems, and/or could result in major repair expense. They must be replaced with parts of the same part numbers or with equivalent parts if replacement becomes necessary. Do not use replacement parts of lesser quality or substitute design. Torque values must be used as specified during reassembly to assure proper retention of these parts. Removal 1. Raise vehicle on hoist. 2. Support rear axle assembly with suitable lifting device, so that tension is relieved in springs and shock absorbers. 3. Remove trunnion bearing “U” bolts from the axle companion flange, separate trunnion from flange, position propeller shaft to one side and tie it to frame side rail. NOTE: Secure trunnion bearing caps to trunnion, using masking tape or a large rubber band, to prevent loss of bearings. 4. Disconnect shock absorbers at lower attachment points and position out of the way. 5. Disconnect axle vent hose from vent connector and position vent hose to one side. 6. Disconnect hydraulic brake hose at connector on axle housing. Remove brake drum, disconnect parking brake cable at actuating levers and at flange plate. Refer to Section 5 for cable removal and brake details. Remove axle “U” bolt nuts, “U” bolts, spacers and clamp plates. 7. Lower axle assembly and remove from vehicle. Installation 1. Position axle assembly under vehicle and align with springs. 2. Install spacer, clamp plate and “U” bolts to axle assembly, loosely install retaining nuts to “U” bolts. 3. Position shock absorbers in lower attachment brackets and loosely install nut to retain shock. 4. Connect axle vent hose to vent connector at carrier. 5. Connect hydraulic brake hose to connector on axle housing, connect parking brake cable to actuating levers. Install brake drum and wheel and tire assembly—bleed brakes and adjust parking brake as outlined in applicable portion of Section 5. 6. Reassemble the propeller shaft to companion flange, making sure that bearing caps are indexed in flange seat. Torque bearing cap retaining nuts to specifications. 7. Position vehicle so that weight is placed on suspension components and torque affected parts to specifications. 8. Lower vehicle and remove from hoist.Axle Vent Replacement The axle vent system consists of the vent connector, vent hose and associated attaching parts. When replacing vent hose make sure that it is routed along original path in such a manner that the hose is free from kinks or binds that would restrict air flow. In replacing the vent connector; pry old connector from carrier, being sure that entire connector is removed. Tap new connector into carrier with a soft-faced hammer, prick punch around edge of hole to insure fit of new connector (fig. 4). Axle Shaft Removal 1. Raise vehicle on hoist. Remove wheel and tire assembly and brake drum. 2. Clean all dirt and foreign material from area of carrier cover. 3. Loosen carrier cover-to-carrier bolts slightly to allow lubricant to drain from carrier. Remove carrier cover and gasket. 4. Remove the differential pinion shaft lockscrew and the differential pinion shaft (fig. 5). 5. Push flanged end of axle shaft toward center of vehicle and remove “C” lock from button end of shaft. 6. Remove axle shaft from housing, being careful not to damage oil seal at end of housing. Oil Seal and/or Bearing Replacement 1. Remove the oil seal by using the button end of the axle shaft-insert the button end of the shaft behind the steel case of the oil seal, then pry seal out of bore being careful not to damage housing. Refer to Figure 6 for detail of seal and bearing installation. 2. Insert Tool J-8119 into bore and position it behind bearing so that tangs on tool engage bearing outer race. Remove bearing, using slide hammer as shown in Figure 7. Fig. 5—Differential Pinion Shaft Removal 3. Lubricate new bearing with wheel bearing lubricant, and install bearing so that it bottoms against shoulder in housing bore (fig. 8). To install bearing, use Tool J-21491 for the 2400 and 3100 lb. axles; Tool J-21051 for the 3500 lb. axles. 4. Pack cavity between the seal lips with a high-melting point wheel bearing lubricant. Position seal in axle housing bore and tap seal into position so that it bottoms against bearing (fig. 8). To install seal, use Tool J-21491 for the 2400 and 3100 lb. axles; Tool J-21051 for the 3500 lb. axles. Brake Flange Backing Plate Replacement 1. Remove brake line at wheel cylinder inlet and disassemble brake components from flange plate. Refer to Section 5 for brake disassembly procedure. 2. Remove four nuts securing flange plate to axle housing (fig. 6). 3. Install new flange plate to axle housing and torque nuts to specifications. NOTE: This brake backing plate to rear axle fastener is an important attaching part in that it could affect the performance of vital components and systems, and/or could result in major repair expense. It must be replaced with one of the same part number or with an equivalent part if replacement becomes necessary. Do not use a replacement part of lesser quality or substitute design. Torque values must be used as specified during reassembly to assure proper retention of this part. 4. Install brake components on flange and connect hydraulic line to wheel cylinder inlet. Refer to Section 5 for brake assembly procedure. 5. Bleed and adjust brakes as outlined in Section 5.Fig. 6—Sectional View of Housing at Wheel Bearing Axle Shaft Installation 1. Slide axle shaft into place. CAUTION: Exercise care that splines on end of shaft do not damage oil seal and that they engage with splines of differential side gear. 2. Install axle shaft “C” lock on button end of axle shaft and push shaft outward so that shaft lock seats in counterbore of differential side gear. 3. Position differential pinion shaft through case and pinions, aligning hole in shaft with lock screw hole in case. 4. Using a new gasket, install carrier cover and torque bolts to specifications. CAUTION: Make sure both gasket surfaces on carrier and cover are clean before installing new a gasket. Torque carrier bolts in a crosswise pattern to ensure uniform draw on cover gasket. Fig. 7—Wheel Bearing Removal 5. Fill axle with lubricant to a level even with bottom of filler hole. See Section 0 for proper lubricant. 6. Install brake drum and wheel and tire assembly. 7. Lower vehicle and remove from hoist. Wheel Bolt Replacement (Fig. 9) Removal 1. Raise vehicle on hoist. 2. Remove wheel and tire and brake drum. 3. Using Tool J-5504 or J-6627 press out stud. Installation 1. Place new studs in axle flange hole. Slightly start stud serrations in hole by firmly pressing back of stud wiih your hand. 2. Install a lug nut with flat side first (tapered face outboard). Tighten on lug nut drawing stud into flange until stud head is bottomed on back side ot' flange. 3. Remove lug nut. 4. Reinstall brake drum and wheel and tire. 5. Lower vehicle and remove from hoist. Pinion Flange, Dust Deflector and/or Oil Seal Replacement 1. Raise vehicle on hoist. 2. Remove rear wheels and brake drums.TOOL J-6627 or J-5504 Fig. 9—Pressing Out Wheel Stud 3. Mark relationship of propeller shaft to companion flange. Separate rear universal joint, taping trunnion bearings to joint. Position propeller shaft to one side and tie it to frame side rail. 4. Using Tool J-5853 with Adapter J-5810 and a suitable socket on the pinion flange nut, rotate the pinion through several complete revolutions and record the torque required to keep the pinion turning (fig. 10). If flange is to be reused, mark pinion and flange for reassembly in the same relative position. 5. Install Tool J-8614-1 on pinion flange and remove pinion flange nut (fig. 11). (Position J-8614-1 on flange so that the four notches are toward flange.) Discard nut and use a new one upon reassembly. 6. Thread pilot end of Tool J-8614-3 into small O.D. end of J-8614-2. Then with J-8614-1 installed as in Step 4, insert J-8614-2 into J-8614-1 and turn it 45 degrees to locked position. Remove flange by turning J-8614-3 while holding J-8614-1 (fig. 12). 7. Pry old seal out of bore, using a screw driver or a hammer and chisel. 8. Inspect pinion flange for smooth oil seal surface, worn drive splines, damages ears, and for smoothness of bearing contact surface. Replace if necessary. 9. If deflector requires replacement, remove by tapping from flange, clean up stake points; install new deflector, and stake deflector at three new equally spaced positions. Fig. 11—Drive Pinion Nut Removal NOTE: Staking operation must be performed in such a manner that the seal operating surface is not damaged. 10. Pack the cavity between the seal lips of the pinion flange oil seal with a lithium-base extreme pressure lubricant. Position seal in bore and place gauge plate J-22804-2 (light-duty axle) or J-22804-1 (heavy-duty axle) over seal and against seal flange. Gauge plate insures proper seating of seal in carrier bore. 11. Using Tools J-21468 and J-9458 for light-duty axle (fig. 13) and Tool J-21057 for heavy-duty axle (fig. 14) press seal into carrier bore until gauge plate is flush with the carrier shoulder and seal flange. Turn gauge plate 180° from installed position; seal must be square in carrier bore to seal properly against pinion flange. 12. Position and align pinion flange on pinion shaft using Tools J-9458 and J-8614-1. Tool J-9458-1 is threaded onto pinion shaft and nut tightened against J-9458-2 to pull flange on shaft (fig. 15). Remove J-9458 after flange is seated.J-22804-2 J-9458 Fig. 15—Pinion Flange Installation Fig. 13—Drive Pinion Oil Seal Installation (Light Duty) NOTE: The position of the pinion and flange was previously marked so that reinstallation may be made with flange and pinion in same relative position. CAUTION: Do not attempt to hammer flange onto pinion shaft. To do so will damage ring gear and pinion. 13. Pack the cavity between end of pinion splines and pinion flange with a non-hardening sealer (such as Permatex Type A or equivalent) prior to installing nut on pinion. 14. Install a new nut on pinion shaft. Tighten nut to remove end play and continue alternately tightening in small increments and checking preload with torque wrench until it is the same as that recorded in Step 4. 15. Reinstall propeller shaft to companion flange in same position as marked in Step 3. Reinstall rear brake drums and wheels. It must be replaced with one of the same part number or with an equivalent part if replacement becomes necessary. Do not use a replacement part of lesser quality or substitute design. Torque values must be used as specified during reassembly to assure proper retention of this part. 16. Lower vehicle and remove from hoist. Positraction Differential Unit The optionally available Positraction differential unit is installed in the conventional carrier to replace the standard differential unit. Service procedures for the Positraction equipped axle are the same as on a conventional axle except for the “on the vehicle check”. On the Vehicle Check If vehicle is equipped with a manual transmission, shift transmission into neutral. 1. Raise rear of vehicle until wheels are off the ground, remove one wheel and tire assembly. 2. Attach Adapter J-5748 to axle shaft flange and install a 1/2''-13 bolt into adapter (fig. 16). 3. With wheel and tire assembly still on vehicle held firmly to prevent turning, measure torque required to rotate opposite axle shaft with a 0-150 lb. torque wrench attached to J-5748. Torque should be 70 ft. lbs. minimum new. and no less than 40 ft. lbs. if used. NOTE: This propeller shaft to pinion flange fastener is an important attaching part in that it could affect the performance of vital components and systems, and/or could result in major repair expense. J-21057Fig. 17—Rear Axle Cross Section (Series 30, 5200 lb.) 1. Universal Joint Yoke 6. Drive Pinion 11. Differential Spider 16. 2. Pinion Bearing and Oil Seal Retainer 7. Pinion Bearing Shim 12. Differential Pinion (Spider) Gear 17. 3. Oil Seal 8. Rear Pinion Bearing 13. Differential Side Gear 18. 4. Gasket 9. Ring Gear Thrust Pad 14. Differential Case—Left Half 19. 5. Front Pinion Bearing 10. Ring Gear 15. Axle Shaft SERIES 30 5200 CAPACITY AXLE (FIG. 17) Axle Assembly Service operations on these axle assemblies may be performed with the housing installed in the vehicle or with the Differential Bearing Differential Bearing Adjusting Nut Adjusting Nut Lock Differential Case—Right Half housing installed in a holding fixture. There may be occasions however, when it will be necessary to remove the complete housing assembly. The following axle assembly removal andi installation procedure, therefore, is necessary only when" housing replacement is required.NOTE: All axle attachments are important attaching parts in that they could affect the performance of vital components and systems, and/or could result in major repair expense. They must be replaced with parts of the same part numbers or with equivalent parts if replacement becomes necessary. Do not use replacement parts of lesser quality or substitute design. Torque values must be used as specified during reassembly to assure proper retention of these parts. Removal 1. Raise vehicle on hoist, and remove rear wheels. 2. Remove two trunnion bearings “U” bolts from the rear yoke; split rear universal joint; position propeller shaft to one side, and tie it to the frame side rail. NOTE: The bearings can be left on the trunnion and held in place with tape. 3. Remove brake drum and disconnect parking brake cable at lever and at flange plate. (See Section 5 for cable removal.) 4. Disconnect hydraulic brake hose at connector on rear axle housing. (If vehicle is equipped with air brakes, disconnect air line at brake chambers, and tie lines out of the way.) 5. Disconnect shock absorbers at axle brackets. 6. Support axle assembly with hydraulic jack, remove spring “U” bolts, and lower axle assembly to the floor. Installation 1. Place axle assembly under vehicle, raise into position, install spring “U” bolts, anchor plates and nuts, and tighten securely. 2. Connect and secure shock absorbers to axle brackets. 3. Connect hydraulic brake hose to connector on axle housing, and bleed hydraulic system as specified in Section 5. 4. Connect hand brake cables and adjust parking brakes as specified in Section 5. 5. Reassemble the rear universal joint, making sure that “U” bolts are drawn up tight and locked properly. Torque to specifications. 6. Install rear wheels, remove stand jacks, and lower vehicle. 7. Test operation of brakes and rear axle. Axle Vent Replacement Service replacement axle housing assemblies are not equipped with an axle vent; therefore, always make sure that a new vent assembly is installed when replacing the housing. If axle vent requires replacement, pry old vent form housing being sure that entire vent is removed. Prick punch around carrier hole to insure fit of replacement vent. Tap new vent into housing using a soft-faced hammer. Vent should be positioned in housing so that flat surface is toward centerline of differential carrier (fig. 18). Axle Shaft Removal and Installation 1. Remove bolts and lock washers that attach the axle shaft flange to the wheel hub. 2. Install two 1/2"-13 bolts in the threaded holes provided in the axle shaft flange. By turning these bolts alternately the axle shaft may be easily started and then removed from the housing (fig. 19). 3. Thoroughly clean both the axle shaft flange and the end of the wheel hub. NOTE: Any lubricant on these surfaces tends to loosen axle shaft flange bolts. 4. Place a new gasket over the axle shaft and position the axle shaft in the housing so that the shaft splines enter the differential side gear. Position gasket so that holes are in alignment and install flange-to-hub attaching bolts— torque bolts to specifications. NOTE: To prevent lubricant from leaking through flange holes, apply a non-hardening sealer (such as Permatex Type A or equivalent) to bolt threads. Use care in the amount of sealer applied, as in too heavy an application, the sealer may be forced out as the bolt is installed and may destroy sealing effect of the flange-to-hub gasket.Hub and Drum (Fig. 20) Removal 1. Remove wheel assembly and axle shaft as specified in applicable “Axle Shaft Removal” procedure of this section. 2. Disengage tang of nut lock from slot or flat of locknut, then remove locknut from housing tube, using J-2222 tool (fig. 21). 3. Disengage tang of nut lock from slot of flat of adjusting nut and remove nut lock from housing tube. 4. Use tool as specified in Step 2 to remove adjusting nut from housing tube. NOTE: Remove thrust washer from housing tube. 5. Pull hub and drum assembly straight off axle housing. NOTE: The hub oil seal should be replaced whenever the hub is removed for any reason. 6. Remove oil seal. Cleaning 1. Immerse bearing cone and roller assemblies in cleaning solvent. Clean with stiff brush to remove old lubricant. Blow bearings dry with compressed air, directing air stream across bearing. Do not spin bearings while blowing them dry. 3. NOTE: To remove inner and outer bearings and cups see "Bearing Cup Replacement" for various axles. Thoroughly clean all lubricant off axle housing tube and out of inside the hub, wipe dry. Make sure all particles of gasket are removed from outer end of hub, axle shaft, and hub cap. Scrape old sealing compound out of oil seal bore in the hub. Inspection 1. Inspect bearing rollers for excessive wear, chipped edges, and other damage. Slowly move rollers around cone to detect any flat or rough spots on rollers or cone. 2. Examine bearing cups in hub for pits, cracks, and other damage. 3. Examine axle shaft flange studs, wheel studs, hub splines, hub bore, and tapped holes for evidence of damage-clean up threads or replace parts where required. 4. Examine oil seal sleeve for evidence of wear or roughness, check axle housing oil deflector and brake drum oil deflector for evidence of damage-replace parts where required. 5. Examine brake drum for excessive scoring and other damage. To replace brake drum refer to “Brake Drum Replacement.” Bearing Cup Replacement Replace inner cup and outer bearing cup as follows: 1. Cut a suitable length of 1/2 inch steel bar stock for press-out tool as shown in Figure 22. 2. Place appropriate press-out tool behind bearing cup, index tool in provided notches, and press out cup with an arbor press. NOTE: Hub outer bearing cannot be replaced with inner bearings in position; therefore, replace outer bearings (if required) before proceeding. 1. Axle Shaft 9. 2. Axle Shaft-to-Wheel Bolt 10. 3. Adjusting Nut Locknut 11. 4. Hub Outer Bearing Assembly 12. 5. Hub Outer Bearing Retainer 13. 6. Wheel Bolt 14. 7. Drum 15. 8. Oil Deflector 16. Oil Deflector Oil Seal Hub Inner Bearing Assembly Drum-to-Hub Retaining Screw Thrust Washer Bearing Adjusting Nut Adjusting Nut Lock GasketFig. 22—Removing Hub Inner Bearing Cup 3. Position bearing cup in hub-thick edge of cup toward shoulder in hub-then, using J-8H4 and J-8092 cup installer press cup into hub until it seats on hub shoulder (fig. 23). Make certain that cup is not cocked and that it is fully seated against shoulder. Replace outer bearing assembly as follows: NOTE: Inner bearing assembly must be removed before attempting to replace outer bearing assembly. 1. Using a punch of suitable length, tap bearing outer race away from bearing retaining ring (fig. 24). Then remove retaining ring from hub using pliers (fig. 24). 2. Drive out bearing using a brass drift. 3. Place inner race and roller assembly in hub larger O.D. of roller assembly towards outer end of hub then position bearing cup in hub- thin edge of cup toward outer end of hub-press cup into hub. using Tool J-2223. 4. Withdraw cup installer and install retainer ring using pliers (fig. 24). Fig. 24—Bearing Retainer Ring Removal 5. Press the bearing cup into positive contact with retainer ring. NOTE: The bearing cup-to-retainer ring seating procedure is essential to assure that an accurate wheel bearing adjustment will be obtained, and that the adjustment will not loosen during vehicle operation. Drum-Nondemountable-Type (Fig. 20) Replacement Construction, of the nondemountable-type hub and drum assembly, is such that replacement cannot be accomplished with the hub assembly installed on the vehicle. 1. Separate the drum and hub by removing the drum-to-hub retaining bolts, hub stud nuts, or by pressing out the wheel studs, as applicable. 2. Position brake drum to hub assembly, making certain that all drain holes are in alignment. 3. Apply a light, even coating of sealing compound to the hub oil deflector contact surface, and position deflector to drum. 4. Install drum-to-hub retaining bolts, hub stud nuts, or press wheel studs into drum, as applicable. Wheel Bolt Replacement Wheel bolts are serrated and may also be swaged in place; however, replacement procedure remains the same for both types of installation. Press bolts out of hub flange (as illustrated in Figure 25) and press new bolts into place, making sure they are a tight fit. If all bolts were removed, be sure that hub oil deflector is in position under bolt heads. Hub Stud Replacement Hub studs can be removed and replaced by using a conventional stud remover and replacer. Make sure that studs are firmly bottomed in holes and that threads are not damaged during installation. Wheel Hub Oil Seal Replacement Pry old seal from its location in the hub bore, using care so as not to damage bore surface. Thoroughly clean all oil andFig. 25-Wheel Bolt Replacement foreign matter from seal contact area in hub bore. Pack the cavity between the seal lips with a high-melting point wheel bearing lubricant, and position seal in hub bore. Carefully press the seal into the hub bore, using Tool J-22351 until seal is properly seated (fig. 26). 1. Using a high melting point EP bearing lubricant, liberally pack bearings and apply a light coat on l.D. of hub bearing contact surface and O.D. of axle housing tube. 2. Make sure inner bearing, oil seal, oil seal sleeve, axle housing oil deflector, and inner bearing race and oil seal are properly positioned. 3. Install hub and drum assembly on axle housing, exercising care so as not to damage oil seal or dislocate other internal components. Install thrust washer so that tang on l.D. of washer is in keyway on axle housing. 4. Install adjusting nut and complete the installation as directed under “Bearing Adjustment.” Bearing Adjustment Before checking bearing adjustment, make sure brakes are fully released and do not drag. Check bearing play by grasping tire at top and pulling back and forth, or by using a pry bar under tire. If bearings are properly adjusted, movement of brake drum in relation to brake flange plate will be barely noticeable and wheel will turn freely. If movement is excessive, adjust bearings as follows: 1. Remove axle shaft and raise vehicle until wheel is free to rotate. 2. Disengage tang of nut lock from locknut and remove them from axle housing tube. 3. Use J-2222 tool and adjust wheel bearings according to the following procedure. 4. Tighten inner adjusting nut to specified torque at the same time rotating hub to make sure all bearing surfaces are in contact. Then back off inner nut to specified amount of turn-back (fig. 27). 5. Install tanged nut lock against the inner adjusting nut. Align inner adjusting nut so short tang of nut lock will engage nearest slot on inner adjusting nut to make tang align correctly, rotate the nut slightly clockwise for barrel roller type bearings and counter-clockwise for tapered roller bearings. Bend tang over into position of adjusting nut slot. 6. Install outer locknut and tighten to correct specified torque. Then bend long tang of nut lock over into slot of outer nut. This method of adjustment will result in the proper bearing loading, and wheel should turn freely. Drive Pinion Oil Seal (Fig. 17) Replacement NOTE: The pinion oil seal may be replaced with the carrier assembly installed in the vehicle. I. Mark relationship between propeller shaft and companion flange. Fig. 27—Tightening Wheel Hub Bearing Adjustment Nut (Typical)2. Disconnect propeller shaft and remove pinion flange and deflector. 3. Remove bolts retaining the oil seal retainer to carrier, and withdraw retainer from pinion. 4. Pry old seal from bore, using care so as not to damage machined surface of retainer. 5. Thoroughly clean all foreign matter from seal contact area in retainer. 6. Pack the cavity between the seal lips with a high-melting point bearing lubricant, position seal on installer Tool J-22281 so that seal shoulders against installer drive surface. 7. Press seal into retainer until it bottoms against shoulder. 8. Carefully position seal retainer over pinion to prevent damage to seal, and torque retaining bolts to specifications. 9. Reinstall pinion flange and propeller shaft as marked in step #1. NOTE: This propeller shaft to pinion flange fastener is an important attaching part in that it could affect the performance of vital components and systems, and/or could result in major repair expense. It must be replaced with one of the same part number or with an equivalent part if replacement becomes necessary. Do not use a replacement part of lesser quality or substitute design. Torque values must be used as specified during reassembly to assure proper retention of this part. No-Spin Differential Unit The optionally available No-Spin differential service procedures are the same as for conventional axles. On-the-Vehicle Check 1. Raise rear of vehicle until both rear wheels are off the floor. 2. Shift transmission into gear. 3. Rotate both rear wheels as far forward as possible. 4. With assistant holding left wheel forward, rotate the right wheel to the rear, checking for free rotation. 5. Rotate both wheels as far to the rear as possible. 6. While holding the left wheel rearward, rotate the right wheel forward, again checking for free rotation. 7. Repeat Steps 3-6, holding the right wheel and rotating the left wheel for left side forward and rearward operation check. 8. If wheels cannot be rotated freely as described above, remove and inspect the No-Spin. PROPELLER SHAFT AND UNIVERSAL JOINTS INDEX Page Service Information......................4-15 Component Parts Replacement..............4-15 Propeller Shaft......................4-15 Removal.........................4-15 Inspection.......................4-15 Page Disassembly......................4-15 Assembly .......................4-16 Installation ......................4-17 Specifications ............See Specifications Section SERVICE INFORMATION Both one piece and two piece propeller shafts are used depending on the model. All are tubular and use needle bearing type universal joints. On models that use a two piece shaft, the shaft is supported near its splined end in a rubber cushioned ball bearing which is mounted in a bracket attached to a frame crossmember. The ball bearing is permanently lubricated and sealed. COMPONENT PART REPLACEMENT Propeller Shaft Assembly Removal 1. Raise vehicle on hoist. 2. Remove U-bolts at axle connection. 3. For models with two-piece shafts remove bolts retaining bearing support to frame crossmember. 4. Slide propeller shaft forward disengaging trunnion from axle flange, then slide assembly rearward disengaging from transmission. Inspection Wash ends of propeller shaft in cleaning solvent, inspect for damage and excessive wear on splines, trunnions and bearings. Disassembly 1. Remove trunnion bearings from propeller shaft yoke as follows: a. Remove lock rings from yoke and lubrication fitting from trunnion.Fig. 28—Propeller Shaft, Universal Joint and Bearing Support b. Support yoke in a bench vise. c. Using soft drift and hammer, drive on one trunnion bearing to drive opposite bearing from yoke. NOTE: The bearing cap cannot be driven completely out. d. Grasp cap in vise and work out. e. Support other side of yoke and drive other bearing cap from yoke and remove as in step d. f. Remove trunnion from propeller shaft yoke. 2. For 125” W.B. models remove bearing support as follows: a. Remove dust shield. b. Remove strap retaining rubber cushion from bearing support. c. Pull support bracket from rubber cushion and pull cushion from bearing. d. Pull bearing assembly from shaft. Assembly 1. Assemble bearing support as follows: a. Install inner deflector on propeller shaft, if removed, and prick punch deflector at two opposite points to make sure it is tight on shaft. b. Fill space between inner dust shield and bearing with lithium soap grease. c. Start bearing and slinger assembly straight on shaft journal. Support propeller shaft and, using suitable length of pipe over splined end of shaft, press bearing and inner slinger against shoulder on shaft. d. Install dust shield over shaft, small diameter first and press into position against outer slinger. e. Install rubber cushion onto bearing. f. Install bracket onto cushion. g. Install retaining strap. 2. Assemble trunnion bearings to propeller shaft as follows: a. On extended life universal joints when performing service operations that require disassembly of the universal joint, repack bearings with grease as outlined in Section 0.NOTE: In addition to packing the bearings, make sure the lubricant reservoir at the end of each trunnion is completely filled with lubricant. In filling these reservoirs, pack lubricant into the hole so as to fill from the bottom. This will prevent air pockets and ensure an adequate supply of lubricant. To replace trunnion dust seal, remove the old dust seal and place new seal on trunnion-cavity of seal toward end of trunnion-Press seal onto trunnion exercising caution during installation to prevent seal distortion and to assure proper seating of seal on trunnion. b. On all other universal joints lubricate trunnion bearing rollers. c. Insert trunnion in propeller shaft yoke and press bearings into yoke and over trunnion hubs far enough to install lock rings. Installation 1. For models with one piece propeller shafts, slide shaft into transmission and attach rear U-joint to axle. Torque bolts to specifications. NOTE: This propeller shaft to pinion flange fastener is an important attaching part in that it could affect the performance of vital components and systems, and/or could result in major repair expense. It must be replaced with one of the same part number or with an equivalent part if replacement becomes necessary. Do not use a replacement part of lesser quality or substitute design. Torque values must be used as specified during reassembly to assure proper retention of this part. 2. For models with two piece shafts, install front half into transmission and bolt support to crossmember. a. Slide grease cap and gasket onto rear splines. b. Rotate shaft so front U-joint trunnion is in a vertical position. c. Take rear propeller shaft and before installing align U-joint trunnions in same vertical position as in step b (at this point all U-joint trunnions should be vertical). (Fig. 29). Then, note relationship of front shaft and rear shaft spline position. Rotate rear shaft four splines toward left side of vehicle (Fig. 29) and install rear shaft to front shaft. Attach rear U-joint to axle. Tighten grease cap. d. Torque bearing support to crossmember and U-joint to axle attachments to specifications. FRONT YOKE OF REAR PROP SHAFT FRONT PROP SHAFTSPECIAL TOOLS Fig. 30—Suspension and Driveline Tools (Series 10-20) 1. J-8614 Companion Flange Remover—Consisting of J-8614-1 Holder J-8614-2 Nut and J-8614-3 Screw 2. J-21057 Drive Pinion Oil Seal Installer—Heavy Duty Axle 3. J-21468 Drive Pinion Oil Seal Installer-Light Duty Axle-Used with J-9458 4. J-5748 Positraction Torque Measuring Adapter 5. J-9458 Drive Pinion Oil Seal Installer—Light Duty Axle—Used with J-21468 6. J-21051 Rear Wheel Bearing and Oil Seal Installer— Heavy Duty—Used with J-7079-2 7. J-21491 Rear Wheel Bearing and Oil Seal Installer— Light Duty Axle—Used with J-8092 8. J-2619 Rear Wheel Bearing and Oil Seal Remover (Slide Hammer) 9. J-8119 Rear Wheel Bearing and Oil Seal 10. J-22804 Pinion Seal Gauge Plates —1 Heavy Duty —2 Light Duty 11. J-8092 Drive Handle—Threaded Type 12. J-5853 Torque Wrench—in. lbs. 13. J-5810 Torque Wrench Adapter (3/4" to 3/8") 14. J-1313 Torque Wrench—ft. lbs. 15. J-5504 Wheel Stud Remover and InstallerSPECIAL TOOLS ft 4 F'g- 31—5200 lb. Capacity Axle—Special Tools 1. J-22351 Wheel Oil Seal Installer 2. J-22281 Pinion Flange Oil Seal Installer 3. J-2223 Wheel Bearing Installer 4. J-2222 Wheel Bearing Nut Wrench 5. J-8092 Driver Handle 6. J-8114 Wheel Bearing InstallerSECTION 5 BRAKES The following caution applies to one or more steps in the assembly procedure of components in this portion of the manual as indicated at appropriate locations by the terminology “See Caution on page I of this Section”. CAUTION: THIS FASTERNER IS AN IMPORTANT ATTACHING PART IN THAT IT COULD AFFECT THE PERFORMANCE OF VITAL COMPONENTS AND SYSTEMS, AND/OR COULD RESULT IN MAJOR REPAIR EXPENSE. IT MUST BE REPLACED WITH ONE OF THE SAME PART NUMBER OR WITH AN EQUIVALENT PART IF REPLACEMENT BECOMES NECESSARY. DO NOT USE A REPLACEMENT PART OF LESSER QUALITY OR SUBSTITUTE DESIGN. TORQUE VALUES MUST BE USED AS SPECIFIED DURING REASSEMBLY TO ASSURE PROPER RETENTION OF THIS PART. CONTENTS OF THIS SECTION Page .5-1 5-26 5-28 Hydraulic Brakes Power Brakes . . Special Tools . . HYDRAULIC BRAKES INDEX Page General Description ..............................5-] Maintenance and Adjustments......................5-3 Brake Inspection ................................5^ Hydraulic Brake Fluid . . . ....................... Bleeding Brakes ............................... 5-4 Pressure Method ............................5^ Manual Method.............................5-5 Hydraulic Brake Lines..........................5-6 Hoses ....................................5-6 Tubing ...................................5-6 Brake Drum Adjustment ........................5-8 Push Rod to Master Cylinder Clearance.............5-9 Parking Brake ................................ 5-9 Stop Lamp Switch Adjustment ...................5-9 Page Component Replacement ......................5-10 Drums, Shoes & Linings-Rear Brakes ...........5-10 Anchor Pin ...............................5-13 Wheel Cylinder............................5-13 Brake Drum Servicing.......................5-14 Shoes and Linings-Front Disc Brakes ...........5-15 Caliper Overhaul...........................5-19 Disc Servicing.............................5-20 Master Cylinder............................5-21 Brake Combination Valve....................5-23 Brake Pedal...............................5-24 Parking Brakes ............................5-25 Pedal .................................5-25 Cables.................................5-25 GENERAL DESCRIPTION All models are equipped with a split brake system. The system is designed with a separate hydraulic system for the front and rear brakes using a dual master cylinder (Fig. 1 and Fig. 2). The split system consists basically of two separate brake systems. When a failure is encountered on either, the other is adequate to stop the vehicle. If one system is not functioning, it is normal for the brake pedal lash and pedal effort to substantially increase. This occurs because of the design of the master cylinder which incorporates an actuating piston for each system. When the rear system loses fluid, its piston will bottom against the front piston. When the front system loses fluid, its piston will bottom on the end of the master cylinder body. The pressure differential in one of the systems causes an uneven hydraulic pressure balance between the front and rear systems. The brake pipe distribution and switch assembly or combination value, near the master cylinder, detects the loss of pressure and illuminates the brake alarm indicator light on the instrument panel. The pressure loss is felt at the brake pedal by an apparent lack of brakes for most of the brakeFig. 1—Master Cylinder—Typical travel and then, when failed chamber is bottomed, the pedal will harden. If a vehicle displays these symptoms, it is a good indication that one of the systems contains air or has failed, and it is necessary to bleed or repair the brakes. MASTER CYLINDER The master cylinder has two entirely separate reservoirs and outlets in a common body casting. The front reservoir and outlet is connected to the front wheel brakes, and the rear reservoir and outlet is connected to the rear wheel brakes. Two pistons within the master cylinder receive mechanical pressure from the brake pedal push rod and transmit it through the brake lines as hydraulic pressure to the wheel cylinders. The filler cap is accessible from inside the engine compartment. VALVE All models have a combination valve located below the master cylinder. The front and rear hydraulic lines are routed through this combination “metering” and “brake failure warning switch” to their appropriate wheel cylinders or caliper. The metering portion of the combination valve tends to “hold off’ front hydraulic pressure until the rear brake system overcomes their pull back springs; then pressure is allowed to flow with the result being a good distribution of braking effort. The brake failure warning switch portion of the combination valve “senses” a loss of hydraulic pressure, if a failure should occur, and illuminates a red light in the dash to warn the operator of the failure. DISC BRAKES FRONT—(Fig. 4) All models have disc brakes on the front. The one piece caliper mounts on the steering knuckle/steering arm, which is also a one piece casting, and astride the brake disc. The caliper is the single piston design which is said to be a sliding caliper sliding piston. No front brake adjustment is necessary once the system is in operation and the pedal has been stroked to “seat” the shoes to the caliper. DRUM BRAKES REAR—(Fig. 5) The rear brakes are duo servo which are self adjusting. Brake adjustment takes place when the brakes are applied with a firm pedal effort while the vehicle is backing up. Applying the brakes moves the actuator which turns the star wheel and lengthens the adjuster screw assembly. This action moves the shoes outward until clearance between the lining and drum is within proper limits. BRAKE AND CLUTCH PEDAL BRACKET BRAKE PEDAL BUMPER MOUNTING BRACKETBRAKE MASTER CYLINDER PIPE DISTRIBUTION AND SWITCH ASSEMBLY Fig. 5—Drum Rear Brakes Fig. 3—Brake Distributor & Switch and Front Brake Pipes PARKING BRAKE All model parking brakes have a foot operated ratchet type pedal mounted to the left of the steering column. A cable assembly connects the pedal to an intermediate cable by means of an equalizer, where the adjustment for the parking brake is incorporated. The intermediate cable attaches to the two rear cables which operate the rear brake. MAINTENANCE AND ADJUSTMENTS BRAKE INSPECTION Every 12 months or 12,000 miles-whichever occurs first: Inspect drum brake linings or disc brake pads, as well as the other internal brake components at each wheel (drums, rotors, wheel cylinders, etc.). For convenience, it is recommended that disc brake pads be checked whenever tires are rotated (at 6000 mile intervals). More frequent checks should be made if driving conditions and habits result in frequent brake applica- tion. Parking brake adjustment should also be checked whenever brake linings are checked. NOTE: During any inspection period, the remaining lining life expectancy should be determined. This determination should dictate the next inspection period. Fig. 4—Front Disc Brake OVERRIDE SPRING STAR WHEEL PULL BACK ACTUATING LEVER HOLD DOWN SPRING AND PIN SECONDARY SHOE ANCHOR PINLINING INSPECTION Drum Brake Replace whenever the thickness of any part of any lining is worn to within 1/32” of the shoe table or rivet head whichever is applicable. Another important point to remember, always replace brake shoes in axle sets (right and left side). Disc Brakes Check both ends of the outboard shoe by looking in at each end of the caliper. These are the points at which the highest rate of wear normally occurs. However, at the same time, check the lining thickness on the inboard shoe to make sure that it has not worn prematurely. Replace whenever the thickness of any part of any lining is worn to Within 1/32” of the shoe or rivet whichever is applicable. HYDRAULIC BRAKE FLUID Use GM Hydraulic Brake Fluid, Supreme No. 11 or equivalent when servicing brakes. This brake fluid is satisfactory for any climate and has all the qualities necessary for proper operation, such as a high boiling point to prevent vapor lock and the ability to remain fluid at low temperatures. In the event that improper fluid has entered the system, it will be necessary to service the system as follows: 1. Drain the entire system. 2. Thoroughly flush the system with brake fluid. 3. Replace all rubber parts of the system, including brake hoses. 4. Refill the system. 5. Bleed the system. Flushing Brake Hydraulic System It is recommended that the entire hydraulic system be thoroughly flushed with clean brake fluid whenever new parts are installed in the hydraulic system. Flushing is also recommended if there is any doubt as to the grade of fluid in the system or if fluid has been used which contains the slightest trace of mineral oil. Flushing is performed at each wheel cylinder in turn, and in the same manner as the bleeding operation except that bleeder valve is opened 1-1/2 turns and the fluid is forced through the pipes and wheel cylinder until it emerges clear in color. Approximately one quart of fluid is required to flush the hydraulic system thoroughly. When flushing is completed at all wheel cylinders, make certain the master cylinder reservoir is filled to proper level. Bleeding Hydraulic System The hydraulic brake system must be bled whenever any line has been disconnected or air has in some way entered the system. Bleeding of brake system may be performed by one of two methods—either pressure or manual. Fig. 6—Brake Bleeder J-23518 and J-23709 (Typical) Sequence for Bleeding Wheel Cylinders It is advisable to bleed one wheel cylinder at a time to avoid allowing fluid level in reservoir to become dangerously low. The correct sequence of bleeding is to bleed wheel cylinder, either front or rear system, nearest master cylinder first. This sequence expels air from lines and wheel cylinders nearest the master cylinder first and eliminates the possibility that air in a line close to the master cylinder may enter a line farther away after it has been bled. CAUTION: Do not perform bleeding operation while any brake drum is removed. PRESSURE BLEEDING (Figs. 6 and 7) NOTE: Hydraulic brake pressure bleeding equipment must be of the diaphragm type. That is, it must have a rubber diaphragm between the air supply and the brake fluid to prevent air, moisture, oil and other contaminants from entering the hydraulic system. Fig. 7—Bleeding Brakes with Tool J-214721. Clean all dirt from top of master cylinder and remove cylinder cover and rubber diaphragm. NOTE: Make sure brake fluid in bleeder equipment is at operating level and that the equipment is capable of exerting 20 to 30 lbs. hydraulic pressure on the brake system. 2. Install Brake Bleeder Adapter J-23518 on master cylinder. Connect hose from bleeder equipment to bleeder adapter and open release valve on bleeder equipment. NOTE: The combination valve, located near the master cylinder, must be held in the open position while bleeding. This can be accomplished by installing Tool J-23709 with the open slot under the mounting bolt and pushing in on the pin in the end of the valve (Fig. 6). Be sure to re-torque the mounting bolt after removing Tool J-23709. 3. Install Brake Bleeder Wrench J-21472 on bleeder valve at wheel cylinder nearest the master cylinder, and install one end of bleeder hose on bleeder valve (Fig. 7). NOTE: If the master cylinder is equipped with bleeder valves, bleed these valves first, proceed to the wheel cylinder nearest the master cylinder, then the next nearest and so on until all cylinders have been bled and there is no evidence of air in the system. 4. Pour a sufficient amount of brake fluid into a transparent container to ensure that end of bleeder hose will remain submerged during bleeding. Place the loose end of bleeder hose into the container. Be sure the hose end is submerged in the fluid. 5. Open wheel cylinder bleeder valve by turning Tool J-21472 counter-clockwise approximately 3/4 of a turn and observe flow of fluid at end of bleeder hose. NOTE: To assist the bleeding operation, a rawhide mallet may be used to tap the caliper while fluid is flowing. 6. Close bleeder valve tight as soon as bubbles stop and brake fluid flows in a solid stream from the bleeder hose. 7. Remove brake bleeder wrench and bleeder hose from wheel cylinder bleeder valve. • 8. Repeat Steps 3 through 7 on the remaining wheel cylinders. 9. Disconnect bleeder equipment from brake bleeder adapter. 10. Remove bleeder adapter. Wipe all areas dry if fluid was spilled during adapter removal. • 11. Fill master cylinder reservoirs to within 1/4" of reservoir rims as shown in Figure 8. 12. Install master cylinder diaphragm and cover. 13. Test operation of brakes before moving the vehicle. Fig. 8—Correct Master Cylinder Fluid Level MANUAL BLEEDING 1. Clean all dirt from the top of the master cylinder and remove the cylinder cover and rubber diaphragm. 2. Fill master cylinder (if necessary) and reinstall the cover. 3. Install Brake Bleeder Wrench J-21472 on a bleeder valve at a wheel cylinder and install a bleeder hose on the bleeder valve (Fig. 7). NOTE: If the master cylinder is equipped with bleeder valves, bleed these valves first, proceed to the wheel cylinder nearest the master cylinder, then the next nearest and so on until ail cylinders have been bled and there is no evidence of air. The combination valve, located near the master cylinder. must be held in the open position while bleeding. This can be accomplished by installing Tool J-23709 with the open slot under the mounting bolt and pushing in on the pin in the end of the valve (Fig. 6). Be sure to re-torque the mounting bolt after removing Tool J-23709. 4. Pour a sufficient amount of brake fluid into a transparent container to ensure that the end of the bleeder hose will remain submerged during bleeding. Place the loose end of the bleeder hose into the container. NOTE: Carefully monitor the fluid level at the master cylinder during bleeding. Do not bleed enough fluid at one time to drain the reservoir. Replenish as needed to ensure a sufficient amount of fluid is in the master cylinder at all times. 5. Open wheel cylinder bleeder valve by turning Tool J-21472 counter-clockwise approximately 3/4 of a turn. Have helper depress the brake pedal. Just before the brake pedal reaches the end of its travel, close the bleeder valve and allow the brake pedal to return slowly to the released position. Repeat Step 5 until expelled brake fluid flows in a solid stream without the presence of air bubbles, then close the bleeder valve tight.NOTE: To assist the bleeding operation, a rawhide mallet may be used to tap the caliper while fluid is flowing. 6. Remove brake bleeder wrench and hose from the bleeder valve and repeat Steps 2 through 6 on the remaining wheel cylinders. 7. Fill the master cylinder to the level shown in Figure 8. 8. Install the master cylinder diaphragm and cover. NOTE: In order to have a good surge of fluid at the bleeder valve, the brake pedal should be pumped up and pressure held before each opening of the valve. HYDRAULIC BRAKE LINES Hydraulic Brake Hose The flexible hoses which carry the hydraulic pressure from the steel lines to the wheel cylinders are carefully designed and constructed to withstand all conditions of stress and twist which they encounter during normal vehicle usage. The hoses require no service other than periodic inspection for damage from road hazards or other like sources. Should damage occur and replacement become necessary, the following procedure is to be followed. Removal (Fig. 9) 1. Separate hose from steel line by turning double flare connector out of hose fitting using a back up wrench on hose fitting. 2. Remove “U” shaped retainer from hose fitting and withdraw hose from support bracket. 3. Remove hose to caliper bolt and remove hose. Replacement (Fig. 9) 1. Install the hose to caliper using new gaskets. Torque the mounting bolt. CAUTION: See "Caution" on Page 1 of this section. 2. Insert hose into frame bracket or frame crossmember— this end of hose will properly mate in one direction only. NOTE: The hose should enter the brakcet with a slight twist of about 20°. 3. Install “U” shaped retainer to secure hose in support bracket. 4. Place steel tube connector in hose fitting and tighten to specifications. Use a back up wrench on the hose fitting. CAUTION: See "Caution" on Page 1 of this section. 5. Bleed all brakes as outlined in this section. BRAKE PIPE RETAINERS (Fig. 10) Retainers are used to secure the brake pipes to the frame and crossmembers. This same retainer secures the fuel pipe in some locations. The retainer is held in place by bolt and nut or sheet metal screws. Fig. 9—Brake Line Support Bracket Tubing Hydraulic brake tubing is a double layer steel tubing which resists corrosion and has the physical strength to stand up under the pressures which are developed when applying the brakes. In making up hydraulic brake pipes, it is important that the proper flaring tool be used to flare the ends of the tubing for the compression couplings. CAUTION: When necessary to replace brake tubing, always use special steel tubing which is designed to withstand high pressure and resist corrosion. Ordinary copper tubing is not satisfactory and should not be used. This safety steel tubing must be double-lap flared at the ends in order to produce a strong leak-proof joint. The Brake Tube Flaring Tool J-2185 (Fig. 11) is used to form the double-lap flare. The Tool must be equipped with the proper size die block and upset flare punch for each size tubing to form the double-lap flare. The proper size die blocks and upset flare punches are as follows: Upset Finish Tubing Size Die Block Flare Punch Flare Punch 3/16” 1/4” 5/16” J-2185-27 J-2185-28 J-2185-29 J-2185-3 J-2185-37 J-2185-4 J-2185-26 J-2185-26 J-2185-26 Figure 12 shows two pieces of tubing, one with single-lap flare “A” and the other with double-lap flare “B”. It will be noted that the single-lap flare in “A” split the tubing while the one sh 'vn in “B” is well-formed and unbroken due to the reinforce^. :t of the double wall. The following procedure should be followed in making up hydraulic brake pipes. Double Lap FlaringFUEL LINE AND BRAKE PIPE CLIPS REAR BRAKE PIPE UNION VIEW A Fig. 10—Brake Line Retainers tubing in the block with approximately 1/4” protruding beyond the end. Fit the other half of the block into the tool body, close the latch plate and tighten the nuts “finger tight”. 4. Select the correct size upset flare punch. One end of this Square off ends of tube and ream sharp edges with reamer tool provided on the tube cutter. 2. Install compression coupling nut on tubing and dip end of tubing to be flared in hydraulic brake fluid. This lubrication results in better formation of the flare. 3. Place one-half of the die blocks in the tool body with the counterbored ends toward the ram guide. Now lay theLATCH PLATE-x DIE BLOCKa \ TUBE imr m-Wl . UPSET FLARE PUNCH STOP PLATE 5. 6. Fig. 13—Flaring Operation—Positioning Tubing punch is counterbored or hollowed out to gauge the amount of tubing necessary to form a double-lap flare. Slip the punch into the tool body with the gauge end toward the die blocks. Install the ram; then tap lightly until the punch meets the die blocks and they are forced securely against the stop plate (Fig. 13). Using the supplied wrench, draw the latch plate nut down tight to prevent the tube from slipping. Tightening the nuts alternately (beginning with the nut at the closed hole in the plate), will prevent distortion of the plate. Remove the punch and the ram. Now reverse the punch and put it back into the tool body. Install the ram and tap it until the upset flare is complete (Fig. 14). This completes the first operation. Remove the ram and the punch. To complete the Hare, insert the pointed finish flare punch and the ram into the tool body. Tap the ram until a good seat is formed (Fig. 15). NOTE: The seat should be inspected at intervals during the finishing operation to avoid over-seating. 7. Blow tubing out with compressed air foreign objects. to remove any Recommended Method of Adjustment a. Use Drum-to-Brake Shoe Clearance Gauge, J-21 177 to check the diameter of the brake drum inner surface (Fig. 16). b. Turn the tool to the opposite side and fit over the brake shoes by turning the star wheel until the gauge just slides over the linings (Fig. 17). c. Rotate the gauge around the brake shoe lining surface to assure proper clearance. Alternate Method of Adjustment a. Using the brake drum as an adjustment fixture, turn the star wheel until the drum slides over the brake shoes with a slight drag. DRUM BRAKE ADJUSTMENT SERVICE BRAKE Although the brakes are self-adjusting, a preliminary or initial adjustment may be necessary after the brakes have been relined or replaced, or whenever the length of the adjusting screw has been changed. The final adjustment is made by using the self-adjusting feature; see Step 3 following. 1. With brake drum off, disengage the actuator from the star wheel and rotate the star wheel by turning with your hand. LATCH PLATE DIE BLOCK\ UPSET FLARE PUNCH RAM GUIDE /-RAM TUBE I STOP PLATEBRAKE RELEASE Fig. 17—Checking Brake Shoe Lining Clearance with Tool J-21177 b. Turn the star wheel M/4 turns to retract the shoes. This will allow sufficient lining-to-drum clearance so final adjustment may be made as described in Step 3. 2. Install the drum and wheel and remove vehicle from hoist. CAUTION: If lanced area in brake drum or backing plate is knocked out, be sure all metal has been removed from brake compartment. Install a new metal hole cover in drum to prevent contamination of the brakes. CAUTION: Make certain that drums are installed in the same position as when removed with the drum locating tang in line with the locating hole in the wheel hub. 3. Make final adjustment by making numerous forward and reverse stops, applying brakes with a firm pedal effort until a satisfactory brake pedal height results. CAUTION: Frequent usage of an automatic transmission forward range to halt reverse vehicle motion may prevent the automatic adjusters from functioning, thereby inducing low pedal heights. PUSH ROD TO MASTER CYLINDER CLEARANCE (FIG. 18) The brake pedal has a definite stop which is permanent and not adjustable. This stop consists of a rubber bumper at the release end of pedal travel. Before adjusting push rod to master cylinder clearance, make sure pedal returns to the fully released position freely and that the pedal retracting spring has not lost its tension, then proceed as follows: 1. Loosen check nut on push rod. 2. Turn push rod as required to provide correct adjustment. Movement of pedal pad before push rod contacts master cylinder pistons must be 1/16” to 1/4”. 3. Tighten check nut against clevis, and recheck movement. Fig. 18—Brake Pedal Free Movement CAUTION: See "Caution" on Page 1 of this section. STOP LAMP SWITCH ADJUSTMENT Loosen the stamped nut and screw the switch either in or out so that stop lamps go on after approximately 1/2 inch of pedal pad travel. CAUTION: See "Caution" on Page 1 of this section. PARKING BRAKE (FIG. 19) The rear brake assemblies serve a dual purpose in that they are utilized both as a hydraulically operated service brake and also as a mechanically operated parking brake. In view of this dual purpose, the service brake must be properly adjusted as a base for parking brake adjustment. Inspection If complete release of the parking brake is not obtained, unless it is forcibly returned to its released position, or if application effort is high, check parking brake assembly for free operation. If operation is sticky or a bind is experienced, correct as follows: 1. Clean and lubricate brake cables and equalizer. 2. Inspect brake assembly for straightness and alignment (replace if necessary). 3. Clean and lubricate parking brake assembly. 4. Check routing of cables for kinks or binding. Parking Brake Adjustment 1. Apply parking brake 1 notch from fully released. 2. Raise vehicle on a hoist. 3. Loosen the jam nut at the equalizer. 4. Tighten or loosen the adjusting nut until a light drag is felt when the wheels are rotated forward. 5. Tighten the check nut.CAUTION: See "Caution" ori Page 1 of this 6. Release the parking brake and rotate rear wheels. No drag section. should be present. 7. Lower vehicle to the floor. COMPONENT REPLACEMENT AND REPAIRS DRUMS, SHOES AND LININGS— REAR DRUM BRAKES NOTE: If brake drums are worn severely, it may be necessary to retract the adjusting screw. To gain access to the adjusting screw star wheel, knock out the lanced area in the web of the Ibrake drum or backing plate using a chisel or similar tool. Release the actuator from the star wheel with a small screwdriver on models with access hole in backing plate or with a wire hook on models with hole in drum. Back off the star wheel with a second screwdriver to retract shoes (Figs. 21 and 22). CAUTION: After knocking out the metal, be sure to remove it from the inside of the drum and clean ail metal from the brake compartment. A new metal hole cover must be installed when drum is reinstalled. NOTE: Riveted linings should be replaced when worn within 1/32” of rivet heads. PULL BACK SPRINGS STAR WHEEL SECONDARY SHOE ANCHOR PIN OVERRIDE SPRING ACTUATING LEVER HOLD DOWN SPRING AND PINFig. 21-Backing Plate Access Hole Fig. 23-Unhooking Pull Back Spring Removal 1. Raise the vehicle on a hoist. 2. Loosen check nuts at forward end of parking brake equalizer sufficiently to remove all tension from brake cable. 3. Remove brake drums. CAUTION: The brake pedal must not be depressed while drums are removed. 4. Unhook brake shoe pull back springs from anchor pin and link end, using Tool J-8049 (Fig. 23). 5. Remove the actuator return spring. 6. Disengage the link end from the anchor pin and then from the secondary shoe. 7. Remove hold-down pins and springs using any suitable tool (Fig. 24). 8. Remove the actuator assembly. NOTE: The actuator, pivot and override spring are an assembly. It is not recommended that they be disassembled for service purposes, unless ihey are broken. It is much easier to assemble and disassemble the brakes by leaving them intact. 9. Separate the brake shoes by removing adjusting screw and spring. CAUTION: Mark shoe and lining positions if they are to be reinstalled. 10. Remove parking brake lever from secondary brake shoe. Inspection 1. Clean dirt out of brake drum. Inspect drums for roughness, scoring or out of round. Replace or recondition drums as necessary. 2. Carefully pull lower edges of wheel cylinder boots away from cylinders and note whether interior is wet with brake fluid. Excessive fluid at this point indicates leakage past piston cups requiring overhaul of wheel cylinder. LEVER HOOK SPROCKET SCREW DRIVER BRAKE DRUMFig. 25—Backing Plate Contact Surface NOTE: A slight amount of fluid is nearly always present and acts as lubricant for the piston. 3. Inspect backing plate for oil leakage past axle shaft oil seals. Install new seals if necessary. 4. Check all brake flange plate attaching bolts to make sure they are tight. Clean all rust and dirt from shoe contact faces on flange plate (Fig. 25) using fine emery cloth. Installation CAUTION: Make certain to install recommended shoe and lining assemblies. 1. Inspect new linings and make certain there are no nicks or burrs or bonding material on shoe edge where contact is made with brake flange plate or on any of the contact surfaces. CAUTION: Keep hands clean while handling brake shoes. Do not permit oil or grease to come in contact with linings. 2. Lubricate parking brake cable. 3. Lubricate fulcrum end of parking brake lever and the bolt with brake lube, then attach lever to secondary shoe with bolt, spring washer, lock washer and nut. Make sure that lever moves freely. 4. Before installation, make certain the adjusting screw is clean and lubricated properly. CAUTION: Loose adjustment may occur from an adjusting screw that is not properly operating. If the lubrication in the adjusting screw of assembly is contaminated or destroyed, the adjusting screw should be thoroughly cleaned and lubricated. 5. Connect brake shoes together with adjusting screw spring, then place adjusting screw, socket and nut in position. CAUTION: Make sure the proper adjusting screw is used (left hand or right hand). The star wheel should only be installed with the star wheel nearest to the secondary shoe and the adjusting screw spring inserted to prevent interference with the star wheel. Make sure right hand thread adjusting screw is on left side of car and left hand thread adjusting screw is on right side of car. Make certain star wheel lines up with adjusting hole in backing plate. If original shoe and lining assemblies are being reinstalled, they must be installed in original position (as marked at removal). 6. Install parking brake cable to lever. 7. Secure the primary brake shoe (short lining faces forward) first with the hold down pin and spring using a pair of needle nose pliers. Engage shoes with the wheel cylinder connecting links. 8. Install and secure the actuator assembly and secondary brake shoe with the hold down pin and spring using a pair of needle nose pliers. Position parking brake strut and strut spring. 9. Install guide plate over anchor pin. 10. Install the wire link. CAUTION: Do not hook the wire link over the anchor pin stud with the regular spring hook tool. Fasten the wire link to the actuator assembly first, and then place over the anchor pin stud by hand while holding the adjuster assembly in full down position.11. Install actuator return spring. CAUTION: Do not pry actuator lever to install return spring. Ease it in place using the end of a screwdriver or other suitable flat tool. 12. If old brake pull back (return) springs are nicked, distorted, or if strength is doubtful, install new springs. 13. Hook springs in shoes using Tool J-8049 by installing the primary spring from the shoe over the anchor pin and then the spring from the secondary shoe over the wire link end (Fig. 26). 14. Pry shoes away from the backing plate and lubricate shoe contact surfaces with a thin coating of brake lube (Fig. 25). CAUTION: Be careful to keep lubricant off facings. 15. After completing installation, make certain the actuator lever functions easily by hand operating the self-adjusting feature (Fig. 27). 16. Follow the above procedure for both rear brakes. 17. Adjust the service brakes and the parking brake as outlined under “Maintenance and Adjustments” in this section. 18. Install drum, wheel and tire, lower vehicle to floor and test brake operation. Relining Brake Shoes If old brake shoes are to be relined, inspect shoes for distortion and for looseness between the rim and web; these are causes for discarding any shoe. If shoes are serviceable, be governed by the following points in installing new linings: 1. Remove old linings by drilling out rivets. Punching rivets out will distort shoe rim. Thoroughly clean surface of shoe rim and file off any burrs or high spots. 2. Use Chevrolet brake lining or equivalent and the rivets included in lining package which are of the correct size. The rivets must fit the holes with the solid body of rivet extending through the shoe rim, but no farther. CAUTION: Keep hands clean while handling brake lining. Do not permit oil or grease to come in contact with lining. 3. Start riveting at center of shoe and lining and work toward the ends. Use a roll set for riveting; a star set might split the tubular end and then the rivet would not fill the hole. The primary lining is shorter than secondary lining; therefore, the rivet holes at each end of the shoe rim are not used. 4. After riveting is completed, lining must seat snugly against shoe with no more than .005” separation midway between rivets. Check with a .004” (Go) and a .006” (No Go) feeler gage. ANCHOR PIN REPLACEMENT Removal 1. Raise vehicle on a hoist. 2. Remove wheel and drum as outlined in this section. 3. Remove brake shoe pull back springs, link and guide plate. 4. Disengage anchor pin lock and remove pin from flange plate (Threaded type). Installation 1. Position anchor pin to flange plate, install lock washer and torque pin. Lock by peening over washer tabs. CAUTION: See "Caution" on Page 1 of this section. 2. Install brake shoe guide plate, link and pull back springs. 3. Adjust brakes, install drum and wheel as outlined previously in this section. 4. Lower vehicle and test brake operation. WHEEL CYLINDER CAUTION: Always use denatured alcohol or brake fluid to clean any wheel cylinder parts. Never use mineral-base cleaning solvents such as gasoline, kerosene, carbon-tetrachloride, acetone, paint thinner or units of like nature as these solvents deteriorate rubber parts, causing them to become soft and swollen in an extremely short time. The wheel cylinder boots should be removed from a cylinder body only when they are visibly damaged or leaking fluid. Wheel cylinders having torn, cut, or heat-cracked boots should be completely overhauled.Wheel Cylinder Repair Wheel cylinders should not be disassembled unless they are leaking or unless new cups and boots are to be installed. It is not necessary to remove the brake cylinder from the backing plate to disassemble, inspect, and overhaul the cylinder. Removal is necessary only when the cylinder is damaged or scored beyond repair. Removal 1. Place vehicle on a hoist. 2. Remove wheel and tire assembly. Back off brake adjustment. if necessary, and remove drum. 3. Disconnect brake system hydraulic line from cylinder. 4. Remove brake shoe pull back springs. 5. Remove screws securing wheel cylinder to flange plate. Disengage cylinder push rods from brake shoes and remove cylinder. Disassembly (Fig. 28) 1. Remove boots from cylinder ends. 2. Remove pistons and cups. Inspection and Cleaning NOTE: Staining is not to be confused with corrosion. Corrosion can be identified with pits or excessive bore roughness. 1. Inspect cylinder bore. Check for staining and corrosion. Discard cylinder if corroded. 2. Polish any discolored or stained area with crocus cloth by revolving the cylinder on the cloth supported by a finger. Do not slide the cloth in a lengthwise manner under pressure. CAUTION: Before washing parts, hands must be clean. Do not wash hands in gasoline or oil before cleaning parts. Use soap and water to clean hands. 3. Wash the cylinder and metal parts in denatured alcohol. 4. Remove excess cleaning fluid from the cylinder. Do not use a rag to dry the cylinder as lint from the rag cannot be kept from the cylinder bore surfaces. 5. Check piston for scratches or other visual damage; replace if necessary. Assembly 1. Lubricate the cylinder bore with clean brake fluid and insert spring-expander assembly. 2. Install new cups with Hat surface toward outer ends of cylinder. Be sure cups are lint and dirt free before insertion. Do not lubricate cups prior to assembly. 3. Install new pistons into cylinder with flat surfaces toward center of cylinder. Do not lubricate pistons before installation. 4. Press new boots onto cylinder by hand. Do not lubricate boots prior to installation. Installation 1. Position wheel cylinder to brake flange plate. Install screws and tighten securely. CAUTION: See "Caution" on Page 1 of this section. 2. Install all push rods and pull back springs. 3. Connect hose or line to wheel cylinder. CAUTION: See "Caution" on Page 1 of this section. 4. Install all parts removed for accessibility. 5. Bleed hydraulic system as outlined in this section. 6. Check brake pedal operation and remove vehicle from hoist. BRAKE DRUMS A lanced “knock out” area is provided in the web of the brake drum or backing plate for servicing purposes in the event retracting of the brake shoes is required in order to remove the drum. A small screwdriver or hooked wire may be inserted to disengage the automatic adjuster actuating lever so the star wheel may be turned (Fig. 22). Inspection and Reconditioning Whenever brake drums are removed, they should be thoroughly cleaned and inspected for cracks, scores, deep grooves and out-of-round. Any of these conditions must be corrected since they can impair the efficiency of brake operation and cause premature failure of other parts. WARNING: A cracked drum is unsafe for further service and must be replaced. Do not attempt to weld a cracked drum. PUSH ROD AND BOOT PISTON CUP RETURN SPRING WITH EXPANDERS WHEEL CYLINDER HOUSING PISTON CUP PISTON CUP BLEEDER SCREW PUSH ROD AND BOOTSmooth up any slight scores by polishing with fine emery cloth. Heavy or extensive scoring will cause excessive brake lining wear, and it will probably be necessary to refinish in order to true up the braking surface. If the brake linings are slightly worn and the drum is grooved, the drum should be turned just enough to remove grooves. The ridges in the lining should be lightly removed with a lining grinder. If brake linings are more than half worn but do not need replacement, the drum should be polished with fine emery cloth but should not be turned. At this stage, eliminating all grooves in drum and smoothing the ridges on lining would necessitate removal of too much metal and lining, while if left alone, the grooves and ridges match and satisfactory service can be obtained. If drum is to be refinished for use with standard size brake facings which are worn very little, only enough metal should be removed to obtain a true smooth braking surface. A brake drum must not be refinished more than .060” over the maximum standard diameter, removal of more metal will effect dissipation of heat. Out-Of-Round or Tapered Drum A drum that is more than .006 out-of-round on the diameter will result in rough brake application and should be refinished. Out-of-round and the diameter can only be accurately measured with an inside micrometer fitted with proper extension rods. An out-of-round drum makes accurate brake shoe adjustment impossible and is likely to cause excessive wear of other parts of brake mechanism due to its eccentric action. An out-of-round drum can also cause severe and irregular tire tread wear as well as a pulsating brake pedal. When the braking surface of a brake drum exceeds the factory specification limits in taper (and/or) being out-of-round, the drum should be turned to true up the braking surface. Out-of-round as well as taper and wear can be accurately measured with an inside micrometer fitted with proper extension rods. When measuring a drum for out-of-round, taper and wear, take measurements at the open and closed edges of machined surface and at right angles to each other. Micrometer Method (Fig. 29) 1. Place the brake drum on a smooth surface. 2. Using micrometers, place the tips at the center of the drum face. 3. While sweeping horizontally and vertically, slowly adjust the micrometer until maximum contact is made. Record this reading. 4. Rotate the drum 45 degrees and repeat Step 3. Continue until 4 readings have been made. The difference between these 4 readings must not exceed .006. Cleaning New brake drums in parts stock are given a light coating of rust proofing oil to prevent the formation of rust on the critical braking surfaces during the time that the drums are in storage. Fig. 29—Measuring Drum for Out-of-Round This rust proofing oil must be carefully removed before the drum is placed in service to prevent any of this oil from getting on the brake shoe facings. It is recommended that a suitable volatile, non-toxic, greaseless type solvent be used to clean the oil from the braking surface of the new brake drums before they are placed in service to insure the cleanest possible surface. Gasoline or kerosene should not be used as there is danger that a portion of the diluted oil substance may be left on the braking surface. NOTE: All brake drums have a maximum diameter cast into them. This diameter is the maximum wear diameter and not a refinish diameter. Do not refinish a brake drum that will not meet the specifications as shown below after refinishing. (REPLACEMENT) ORIGINAL MAXIMUM REFINISH (DISCARD) DIAMETER DIAMETER DIAMETER 11.000 11.060 11.090 12.000 12.060 12.090 13.000 13.060 13.090 SHOES AND LININGS—FRONT DISC BRAKES The brake linings should be inspected any time that the wheels are removed. Check both ends of the outboard shoe by looking in at each end of the caliper. This is the point at which the highest rate of wear normally occurs. At the same time, check the lining thickness on the inboard shoe by looking down through the inspection hole in the top of the caliper-see “Brake Inspection.” The outboard shoes have ears near the outer edge which are bent over at right angles to the shoe. The top ends of the shoe have looped ears with holes in them which the caliper retaining bolts fit through. The large tab at the bottom of the shoe is bent over at a right angle and fits in the cut-out in the outboard section of the caliper (Fig. 30).CALIPER ASSEMBLY PISTON DUST BOOT SPRING INBOARD BRAKE SHOE Fig. 30—Single Piston Caliper Explode The inboard shoe and lining has ears on the top ends which fit over the caliper retaining bolts. A special spring inside the hollow piston supports the bottom edge of the inboard shoe. NOTE: Outboard shoes (with formed ears) are designed for original installation only and are fitted to the caliper. The shoes should never be relined or reconditioned for installation on Chevrolet vehicles. 5. Lift the caliper off the disc. 6. Remove the inboard shoe. Dislodge the outboard shoe and position the caliper on the front suspension arm so that the brake hose will not support the weight of the caliper. CAUTION: reinstalled. Mark shoe positions if they are to be Removal 1. Remove master cylinder cover and observe brake fluid level in front reservoir. If reservoir is more than 1/3 full, siphon the necessary amount out to bring the level to 1/3 full. (This step is taken to avoid reservoir overflow when the caliper piston is pushed back into its bore.) Discard the brake fluid removed. Never reuse brake fluid. 2. Raise the vehicle and remove the front wheels. 3. Push the piston back into its bore. This can be accomplished by using a “C” clamp as shown in Figure 31. 4. Remove the two mounting bolts which attach the caliper to the support as shown in Figure 32. 7. Remove the shoe support spring from the piston. 8. Remove the two sleeves from the inboard ears of the caliper. 9. Remove the four rubber bushings from the grooves in each of the caliper ears. Cleaning and Inspection NOTE: The shoes should be replaced when the lining is worn to approximately 1/32" inch thickness over the rivet heads — Replace shoes in axle sets.Fig. 31—"C" Clamp Installed for Removal Aid 1. Thoroughly clean the holes and the bushing grooves in the caliper ears and wipe any dirt from the mounting bolts. CAUTION: Do not use abrasives on the bolts since this may damage the plating. If the bolts are damaged or corroded, they should be replaced. 2. Examine the inside of the caliper for evidence of fluid leakage. If leakage is noted, the caliper should be overhauled. 3. Wipe the inside of the caliper clean, including the exterior of the dust boot. Check the boot for cuts, cracks or other damage. CAUTION: Do not use compressed air to clean the inside of the caliper. This may cause the dust boot to become unseated. Installation CAUTION: If original shoes are being reinstalled, they must be installed in original positions (as marked at removal). 1. Lubricate new sleeves, new rubber bushings, the bushing grooves and the end of the mounting bolts using Delco Moraine Silicone Lube or its equivalent (Fig. 33). NOTE: It is essential that new sleeves and rubber bushings be used and that lubrication instructions be followed in order to ensure the proper functioning of the sliding caliper design. 2. Install the new rubber bushings in the caliper ears. 3. Install the new sleeves to the inboard ears of the caliper. NOTE: Position the sleeve so that the end toward the shoe and lining assembly is flush with the machined surface of the ear. 4. Install the shoe support spring and the “old” shoe in the center of the piston cavity as shown in Figure 34. 5. Push down until the shoe lays flat against the caliper (Fig. 35). 6. Position the outboard shoe in the caliper with the ears at the top of the shoe over the caliper ears and the tab at the bottom of the shoe engaged in the caliper cutout. 7. With both shoes installed, lift up the caliper and rest the bottom edge of the outboard lining on the outer edge of the brake disc to make sure there is no clearance between the tab at the bottom of the outboard shoe and the caliper abutment.8. Using a 1/4 x 1 x 2-1/2 inch metal bar, supported on the “old” inboard shoe and the lower flange of the outboard shoe (Fig. 36), clamp with moderate pressure using a clean “C” clamp. CAUTION: Use a clean "C" clamp to avoid contamination of the brake lining and do not use excessive force which could deform the lining face. 9. Using arc-joint pliers, as shown in Figure 36, bend both upper ears of the outboard shoe over the caliper until the clearance between the shoe ear and the caliper (measured at both the edge and side of the caliper) is 0.005 inch or less. Locate pliers on small notches opposite ears. NOTE: Outboard shoes (with formed ears) are designed for original installation only and are fitted to the caliper. The shoes should never be relined or reconditioned for installation on Chevrolet vehicles. C5=^1 '/» x 1 x 2-'/j INCH BAR STOCK “OLD” INBOARD SHOE CALIPER V 10. 11. SMALL NOTCH A ARC-JOINT PLIERS '“C” CLAMP 12. 13. 14. 15. 16. CAUTION: See section. 'Caution" on Page 1 of this Fig. 36—Fitting Shoe to Caliper After clinching, remove the “C” clamp. Remove the “old” inboard shoe and insert the “new” inboard shoe. Position the caliper over the brake disc, lining up the hole in the caliper ears with the holes in the mounting bracket. CAUTION: Make sure that the brake hose is not twisted or kinked. Start the caliper to mounting bracket bolts through the sleeves in the inboard caliper ears and through the mounting bracket, making sure that the ends of the bolts pass under the retaining ears on the inboard shoe (Fig. 32). Push the mounting bolts through to engage the holes in the outboard shoe and the outboard caliper ears. Then thread the mounting bolts into the mounting bracket. Torque the mounting bolts to 35 ft. lbs. Reinstall the front wheel and lower the vehicle. Add brake fluid to the master cylinder reservoir to bring the fluid level up to within 1/4 inch of the top. CAUTION: Before moving the vehicle, pump the brake pedal several times to make sure that it is firm. (Do not move vehicle until a firm pedal is obtained.) Check master cylinder fluid level again after pumping the brake pedal.CALIPER OVERHAUL CAUTION: Always use denatured alcohol or brake fluid to clean any caliper parts. Never use mineral-base cleaning solvents such as gasoline, kerosene, carbon-tetrachloride, acetone, paint thinner or units of like nature as these solvents deteriorate rubber parts, causing them to become soft and swollen in an extremely short time. Removal 1. Disconnect the hose from the steel brake line and cap or tape the fittings to prevent dirt from entering the line or hoses. 2. Remove the U-shaped retainer from the hose fitting. 3. Withdraw the hose from the frame support bracket and remove the caliper with the hose attached. Remove the brake shoes from the caliper. Disassembly 1. Clean the exterior of the caliper using denatured alcohol or equivalent and place on a clean work surface. 2. Remove the brake hose from the caliper and discard the copper gasket. Check the hose for worn spots, cracks or other signs of deterioration. Discard the hose, if damaged, and replace with a new hose. 3. Drain the brake fluid from the caliper. WARNING: DO NOT PLACE THE FINGERS IN FRONT OF THE PISTON IN AN ATTEMPT TO CATCH OR PROTECT IT WHEN APPLYING COMPRESSED AIR. 4. Using clean shop towels, pad the interior of the caliper and remove the piston by directing compressed air into the caliper inlet hole (Fig. 37). Fig. 37—Removing Piston From Caliper CAUTION: Use just enough air pressure to ease the piston out of the bore. Do not blow piston out of the bore. NOTE: Another method of removing the piston is to stroke the brake pedal (gently) while the hydraulic lines are still connected. This will push the piston out of the caliper bore. 5. Using a screwdriver and caution so as not to scratch the piston bore, pry the dust boot out of the caliper piston bore. 6. Using a small piece of wood or plastic remove the piston seal from its groove in the caliper piston bore. CAUTION: Do not use a metal tool of any kind for this operation. 7. Remove the bleeder valve from the caliper. Cleaning and Inspection NOTE: The dust boot, piston seal, rubber bushings and sleeves are to be replaced each time that the caliper is overhauled. Discard these parts — do not bother to clean and inspect them. 1. Clean all parts (other than those mentioned above) in denatured alcohol. Use dry, filtered, compressed air to dry parts and blow out all passages in the caliper and bleeder valve. CAUTION: The use of lubricated shop air will leave a film of mineral oil on the metal parts. This may damage rubber parts when they come in contact after reassembly. 2. Check the mounting bolts for corrosion or other damage. Do not attempt to clean up the bolts. If they appear corroded — replace them. 3. Carefully examine the outside surface of the piston for scoring, nicks, corrosion and worn or damaged chrome plating. If any surface defects are detected, replace the piston. CAUTION: The piston outside diameter is the primary sealing surface in the caliper assembly. It is manufactured and plated to close tolerances. Refinishing by any means or the use of any abrasive is not an acceptable practice. 4. Check the bore in the caliper for the same defects as the piston. The piston bore, however, is not plated and stains or minor corrosion can be polished with crocus cloth. CAUTION: Do not use emery cloth or any other form of abrasive. Thoroughly clean the caliper after the use of crocus cloth. If the bore cannot be cleaned up in this manner, replace the caliper. Reassembly 1. Lubricate the caliper piston bore and the new piston sealwith clean brake fluid. Position the seal in the caliper bore groove. 2. Lubricate the piston with clean brake fluid and assemble a new boot into the groove in the piston so that the fold faces the open end of the piston as shown in Figure 38. 3. Insert the piston into the caliper bore using care not to unseat the seal and force (50 to 100 pounds force required) the piston to the bottom of the bore. 4. Position the dust boot in the caliper counterbore and seat using Boot Installer Tool J-22904 as shown in Figure 39. CAUTION: Check the boot installation to make sure that the retaining ring moulded into the boot is not bent and that the boot is installed below the caliper face and evenly all around. 5. Install the brake hose and screw in the caliper inlet using new copper gaskets. CAUTION: See "Caution" on Page 1 of this section. Hose must be positioned in the caliper locating gate (between locating beads) to assure proper positioning to caliper. Fig. 39—Installing Boot to Caliper Installation NOTE: Installation of the caliper and mounting parts (rubber bushings, sleeves, bolts, and shoe and lining assemblies) is the same as for: "Shoe and Lining Disc Brake" except for the steps given below. 1. Connect the brake hose to the brake line at the frame bracket. CAUTION: See "Caution" on Page 1 of this section. 2. Bleed the calipers using the method outlined in the beginning of this section. DISC SERVICING Servicing of the brake disc is extremely critical since accurate control of the disc tolerances is necessary to ensure proper brake operation. NOTE: All brake disc have a minimum thickness dimension cast into them. This dimension is the minimum wear dimension and not a refinish dimension. Do not refinish a brake disc that will not meet the specifications as shown below after refinishing. MINIMUM THICKNESS AFTER REFINISHING REPLACEMENT (DISCARD) THICKNESS 1.230 .980 1.215 .965 Minimum Requirements The disc specifications. brake surfaces must meet the following Must be flat radially within .002 T.I.R. Must be parallel with each other within .003 T.I.R. when checked radially. Total circumferential thickness variation at any radius must not exceed .0005 in 360°. When mounted on bearing cups, lateral run-out must not exceed .005 T.I.R. and maximum rate of change must not exceed .001 in 30°. Both surfaces must be free of scratch marks and porosity. Finish is to be 20-60 micro inches and must not be circumferential (directional). Both surfaces must be square with bearing cup centerline within .003 T.I.R. DUST BOOT BOOT INSTALLER J-22904 END OF GROOVELight Scoring Light scoring of the disc surfaces not exceeding .015 inch in depth, which may result from normal use, is not detrimental to brake operation. Checking Lateral Runout Tighten the wheel bearing adjusting nut until all of the play is out of the bearing. It should be just loose enough to allow the wheel to turn. Fasten a dial indicator to some portion of the suspension so that the point of the stylus contacts the rotor face approximately one inch from the rotor edge. Set the dial at zero and move the rotor one complete rotation, checking the indicator as the rotor moves. After checking the runout, readjust the wheel bearing (See Section 3). Checking Parallelism To check for parallelism, measure the thickness of the rotor at four or more points around the circumference of the rotor. All measurements must be made at the same distance in from the edge of the rotor. MASTER CYLINDER (Fig. 40) CAUTION: Always use denatured alcohol or brake fluid to clean any master cylinder parts. Never use mineral-base cleaning solvents such as gasoline, kerosene, carbon-tetrachloride, acetone, paint thinner or units of like nature as these solvents deteriorate rubber parts, causing them to become soft and swollen in an extremely short time. Removal 1. Wipe master cylinder and lines clean with a clean cloth. Place dry cloths below master cylinder area to absorb any fluid spillage. 2. Disconnect hydraulic lines at master cylinder. Cover line Fig. 41—Master Cylinder - Explode ends with clean lint-free material to prevent foreign matter from entering the system. 3. Disconnect the push rod from the brake pedal. 4. Unbolt and remove the master cylinder from the dash panel or power brake booster. Disassembly (Fig. 41) 1. Remove the small secondary piston stop screw from the bottom of the front fluid reservoir of the master cylinder. 2. Place the master cylinder in the vise so that the lock ring can be removed from the small groove in the l.D. of the bore. Remove the lock ring and primary piston assembly. Remove the secondary piston, secondary piston spring and retainer by blowing air through the stop screw hole. If air is not available, a piece of wire may be used. Bend approximately 1/4” of one end of the wire into a right angle. Hook this end under the edge of the secondary piston and pull the secondary piston from the bore. CAUTION: Do not clamp vise too tightly as damage to the master cylinder could result. NOTE: The brass tube-fitting insert should NOT be removed unless visual inspection indicates the insert is damaged. 3. To replace a defective insert the following procedure should be practiced: a. Place the master cylinder in a vise, so that the outlet holes are up. Enlarge the outlet holes in the tube seats using a 13/64” drill. Tap a l/4”-20 thread in these holes. Place a heavy washer over the outlet on the master cylinder and thread a 1/4” - 20 x 3/4” hex head bolt into the tube seat. Tighten the bolt until the tube seat is unseated. b. A more preferable way to remove a defective insert involves use of a self-tapping screw and a clawhammer. With a box-end or socket wrench, thread a #6 - 32 x 5/8” long self-tapping screw into the tube-fitting insert. Using the claw end of the hammer, remove the screw and insert. 4. Remove the casting from the vise and inspect the bore for corrosion, pits and foreign matter. Be sure the outlet ports are clean. Inspect the fluid reservoirs for foreign matter. Check the bypass and compensating ports to the master cylinder bore to determine if they are unrestricted. 5. Remove the primary seal, primary seal protector and secondary seals from the secondary piston. Cleaning Use denatured alcohol or clean brake fluid to thoroughly clean all reusable brake parts. Immerse in the cleaning fluid and brush metal parts with hair brush to remove foreign matter. Blow out all passages, orifices and valve holes. Air dry and place cleaned parts on clean paper or lint free clean cloth. If slight rust is found inside either the front or rear half housing assemblies, polish clean with crocus cloth or fine emery paper, washing clean afterwards. CAUTION: Be sure to keep parts clean until reassembly. Re-wash at reassembly if there is any occasion to doubt cleanliness — such as parts dropped or left exposed for eight hours or longer. If there is any suspicion of contamination or any evidence of corrosion, completely flush the car hydraulic brake system in accordance with this shop manual. Failure to clean the hydraulic brake system can result in early repetition of trouble. Use of gasoline, kerosene, anti-freeze, alcohol or any other cleaner, with even a trace of mineral oil, will damage rubber parts. Rubber Parts Wipe fluid from the rubber parts and carefully inspect each rubber part for cuts, nicks or other damage. These parts are the key to the control of fluid flow. If the unit is in for overhaul, or if there is any question as to the serviceability of rubber parts, REPLACE them! Badly damaged items, or those which would take extensive work or time to repair, should be replaced. In case of doubt, install new parts. Do not rely on the brake unit being overhauled at an early or proper interval. New parts will provide more satisfactory service, even if the brake unit is allowed to go beyond the desired overhaul period. Assembly If the brass tube inserts were removed, place the master cylinder in a vise so that the outlet holes are up. Position the new brass tube inserts in the outlet holes, making sure they are not cocked. The recommended method of seating these inserts is to thread a spare brake line tube nut into each outlet hole and turn the nuts down until the insert bottoms. (Remove the tube nut and check the outlet hole for loose brass burrs, which might have been turned up when the insert was pressed into position.) Each vehicle application of these cylinders is designed to produce the correct displacement of fluid from both the front and rear chambers under normal, failed and partially failed conditions. Cylinders are designed so that this variable displacement requirement is controlled within each bore size by the secondary piston. Because the pistons vary in length, it is necessary to mark them with identification rings. It is imperative that exact replacements be made when servicing the master cylinders. With all of the variables to be found in master cylinders, which look similar externally, it is important that the complete assemblies be properly identified. For this purpose a two-letter metal stamp will be found on the end of each master cylinder. This two-letter stamp indicates the displacement capabilities of a particular master cylinder. It is, therefore, mandatory that when master cylinders are replaced, they are replaced with cylinders bearing the same two-letter stamp. 1. Place new secondary seals in the two grooves in the flat end of the secondary piston assembly. The seal which is nearest the fiat end will have its lips facing toward this flat end. On Delco units, the seal in the second groove should have its lips facing toward the end of the secondary piston which contains the small compensating holes. On Bendix units, the seal in the second groove is an “0” ring seal. 2. Assemble a new primary seal and primary seal protector over the end of the secondary piston opposite the secondary seals, so that the flat side of the seal seats against the flange of the piston which contains the small compensating holes. 3. In order to insure correct assembly of the primary piston assembly, a complete primary piston assembly is included in the repair kits. 4. Coat the bore of the master cylinder with clean brake fluid. Coat the primary and secondary seals on the secondary piston with clean brake fluid. Insert the secondary piston spring retainer into the secondary piston spring. Place the retainer and spring down over the end of the secondary piston so that the retainer locates inside the lips of the primary seal. 5. Holding the master cylinder with the open end of the bore up or down, push the secondary piston into the bore so that the spring will seat in against the closed end of the bore. Use a small wooden rod to push the secondary piston to seat. 6. Place the master cylinder in a vise with the open end of bore up. Coat the primary and secondary seals on the primary piston with clean brake fluid. Push the primary piston, secondary piston stop first, into the bore of the master cylinder. Hold the piston down and snap the lock ring into position in the small groove in the l.D. of the bore. CAUTION: Do not tighten vise too tightly as damage to the master cylinder could result. 7. Continue to hold the primary piston down. This will also move the secondary piston forward and will insure that the secondary piston will be forward far enough to clear the stop screw hole, which is in the bottom of the front fluid reservoir. The stop screw is now positioned in its hole and tightened to a torque of 33 in. lbs.CAUTION: See "Caution" on Page 1 of this section. 8. Install the reservoir diaphragm in the reservoir cover and install the cover on the master cylinder. Assemble the bail wires into position to retain the reservoir cover. The master cylinder is now ready for “Bench Bleeding” as outlined below. Bench Bleeding 1. Install plugs in both outlet ports. NOTE: Plastic plugs that come with a replacement cylinder are recommended for this operation. 2. Clamp the master cylinder in a bench vise with the front end tilted slightly down. CAUTION: Do not tighten vise too tightly as damage to the master cylinder could result. 3. Fill both reservoirs with clean brake fluid. 4. Insert a rod with a smooth round end to the primary piston and press in to compress the piston return spring. 5. Release pressure on rod. Watch for air bubbles in the reservoir fluid. 6. Repeat step 5 as long as bubbles appear. 7. Reposition master cylinder in vise so that the front end is tilted slightly up. 8. Repeat steps 4-5-6. 9. Install diaphragm and cover on reservoir. Installation 1. Assemble the push rod through the push rod retainer, if it has been disassembled. 2. Push the retainer over the end of the master cylinder. Assemble new boot over push rod and press it down over the push rod retainer. Slide new mounting gasket into position. Secure the master cylinder to the dash panel with mounting bolts. CAUTION: See "Caution" on Page 1 of this section. 3. Connect the push rod clevis to the brake pedal with pin and retainer. CAUTION: See "Caution" on Page 1 of this section. 4. Connect the brake lines to the master cylinder. CAUTION: See "Caution" on Page 1 of this section. 5. Fill the master cylinder reservoirs to the levels shown in Figure 8. Bleed the brake system as outlined in this section. 6. If necessary, adjust the brake pedal free play as outlined in this section. NOTE: The brake combination valve is a non-adjustable, non-serviceable valve. If defective it must be replaced. Functions Metering Valve This section of the valve operates to “hold-off’ hydraulic flow to the front disc brakes until a predetermined pressure is reached. This “hold-off” action allows the rear drum brakes to build up sufficient hydraulic pressure to overcome the force of their retracting springs. This metering or hold off valve then provides for balanced braking. NOTE: When bleeding the brakes; the pin in the end of the metering portion of the combination valve must be held in the open position (not allowed to close). This can be accomplished by installing Tool J-23709 under the mounting bolt and depressing the pin a slight amount. Be sure to retorque the mounting bolt after removing Tool J-23709 (Fig. 6). Warning Switch The warning switch is the pressure differential type. It is wired electrically to the warning lamp on the instrument panel to warn the vehicle operator of a pressure differential between the front and rear hydraulic systems. Once the switch is activated “on,” it will not “reset” until the defect in the hydraulic system has been repaired. Hydraulic reset to the “off’ position occurs with the application of equal front and rear pressures. Proportioning Valve The function of this valve is to prevent premature rear wheel slide. Line pressure is allowed to increase normally up to a certain point (determined by vehicle weight and braking distribution). When the predetermined pressure is reached, the valve begins to function and limit the amount of iincrease in hydraulic pressure passed to the rear brakes. This prevents the rear brakes from locking up before the full effective braking effort is produced by the front disc brakes. NOTE: In the event of "front hydraulic system failure" the proportioning valve has a "by pass" feature that assures full system pressure to the rear brakes. Removal (Fig. 42) 1. Disconnect electrical lead. 2. Place dry rags below valve to absorb any fluid spillage. 3. Wipe off any dirt and disconnect hydraulic lines from valve — cover open lines to prevent foreign matter from entering the system. 4. Remove mounting screws and re move valve.Installation 1. Make sure new switch is clean and free of lint. If any dcubt exists, wash the switch in denatured alcohol or brake fluid and allow to dry. 2. Place new switch in position and secure with screws. CAUTION: See "Caution" on Page 1 of this section. 3. Connect hydraulic lines to valve. CAUTION: See "Caution" on Page 1 of this secUion. 4. Connect switch electrical lead. 5. Bleed the brake system. Brake Warning Light Checking 1. Set parking brake and turn the ignition key to “ON.” 2. Warning lamp should light. 3. If ilamp does not light: bulb is burned out or electrical circuit is defective. 4. Tuirn ignition key off. 5. Replace bulb or repair circuit as necessary. Testincj Warning Switch I. Raise vehicle on a hoist and attach a bleeder hose to a rear brake bleed screw and immerse the other end of hose in a container partially filled with clean brake fluid. Be sure master cylinder reservoirs are full. NOTE: When bleeding the brakes; the pin in the end of the metering portion of the combination valve must be held in the open position (not allowed to close). This can be accomplished by installing Tool J-23709 under the mounting bolt and depressing the pin a slight amount. Be sure to retorque the mounting bolt after removing Tool J-23709 (Fig. 6). CAUTION: See "Caution" on Page 1 of this section. 2. Turn ignition key “ON.” Open bleed screw while helper applies heavy pressure to brake pedal. Warning lamp should light. Close bleed screw before helper releases pedal. NOTE: To "reset" switch, apply heavy pedal force. This force will apply hydraulic pressure which re-centers the switch contact. 3. Attach bleeder hose to front brake bleed screw and repeat step 2. 4. Turn ignition key off. See Note under step 2. 5. Lower vehicle to floor. NOTE: If warning lamp does not light during Steps 2 and 3, but does light when the parking brake is set, warning light switch is defective. Do not attempt to repair switch. A defective switch must be replaced with a new combination valve assembly. CAUTION: Caution should be taken to prevent air from entering system during checks on switch. The recommended checking interval should be 24 months, any time major brake work is done or any time a customer complains of excessive pedal travel. BRAKE PEDAL Removal 1. Remove push rod clevis pin. 2. Remove clutch lever from right side, if manual transmission, or retainer from right side if automatic transmission.3. Remove clutch pedal and shaft, if manual transmission, or shaft if automatic transmission and lower brake pedal from pedal bracket. 4. Remove pedal return spring. Installation 1. Install pedal return spring and position the pedal in the bracket. 2. Install the pedal shaft. 3. Install shaft retainer, if automatic transmission or clutch lever if manual transmission. 4. Install the push rod to the brake pedal with clevis pin and install clevis pin retainer. NOTE: The push rod clevis attaches to the brake pedal upper hole if manual brakes and to the lower hole if power brakes. The stop lamp switch striker fits the opposite hole in either condition above. CAUTION: See "Caution" on Page 1 of this section. 5. Check the brake pedal free travel and stop lamp switch operation and adjust if necessary. PARKING BRAKE Pedal Removal 1. Remove bolt and nut securing the front cable clamp to the parking brake assembly. 2. Remove cotter pin from clevis pin. 3. Remove nuts from dash panel and screw from instrument panel and remove assembly. Installation 1. Make sure that the spacer between the instrument panel and parking brake assembly is in place before installing screw. CAUTION: See "Caution" on Page 1 of this section. 2. Install in reverse order of removal. Install the dash nuts and instrument panel screw and torque the dash nuts before torquing the instrument panel screw. NOTE: Install the clevis pin so that the cotter pin hole is toward the center of the vehicle. CAUTION: See "Caution" on Page 1 of this section. FRONT CABLE Removal 1. Remove bolt and nut securing the front cable clamp to the parking brake assembly. 2. Remove cotter pin from clevis pin. Fig. 44—Parking Brake Pedal 3. Push the rubber grommet (dash panel to front cable) out of the dash panel. 4. Raise vehicle on a hoist. 5. Remove the front cable to cross member spring. 6. Remove the jam nut and adjusting nut from the front cable at the equalizer. 7. Remove the clips securing the parking brake front cable and speedo cable to the vehicle. 8. Compress locking fingers at cross member and withdraw front cable from the vehicle. Installation 1. Install the front cable by pushing the locking fingers through the cross sill and check to be sure the cable is secure. 2. Route the cable along the side rail and through the hole in the dash panel. Install rubber grommet. 3. Install the clevis pin toward the center of the vehicle and install a cotter pin. CAUTION: See "Caution" on Page 1 of this section. 4. Secure the cable to the body clips. 5. With equalizer installed on the center cable; push the front cable through the equalizer hole. 6. Install the adjusting nut and adjust the parking brake as noted in this section. CAUTION: See "Caution" on Page 1 of this section. 7. Install the jam nut to the adjusting-nut. CAUTION: See "Caution" on Page 1 of this section.8. Install the front cable to the cross sill spring. 9. Lower the vehicle to the floor. CENTER CABLE Removal 1. Raise vehicle on a hoist. 2. Remove front cable connection at equalizer. 3. Remove center from cable guides and connectors and remove cable. Installation Install in reverse order of removal and lower vehicle to the floor. CAUTION: See "Caution" on Page 1 of this section. REAR CABLE Removal 1. Raise vehicle on a hoist. 2. Back off the equalizer jam nut and adjusting nut until sufficient clearance is obtained to separate the center cable from the rear cable (either left or right side). 3. Remove the rear cable retainer at cross sill. 4. Pull the cable, left or right, out of hole in cross sill. 5. With brake shoes exposed remove secondary shoe retainers until sufficient clearance can be obtained to remove the knobbed end of the rear cable from the parking brake lever. 6. Compress locking fingers (remove clamp on 30 series) and withdraw the cable from the backing plate. Installation 1. Push cable through the backing plate and hook the knobbed end to the parking brake lever. 2. Be sure the locking fingers are “seated” or the clamp is in proper position to the backing plate. 3. Route the cable through the cross sill and install the retainer. CAUTION: See "Caution" on Page 1 of this section. 4. Install the center cable to rear cable connector. Be sure cable guides are in place. CAUTION: See "Caution" on Page 1 of this section. 5. Adjust the parking brake and lower the vehicle to the floor. POWER BRAKES GENERAL DESCRIPTION The Power Brake Unit is a self-contained hydraulic and vacuum unit, utilizing manifold vacuum and atmospheric pressure for its power. This unit permits the use of a low brake pedal as well as less pedal effort than is required with the conventional (nonpower) hydraulic brake system. The unit is mounted on the engine side of the dash panel and directly connected to the brake pedal. MAINTENANCE AND ADJUSTMENTS Inspections 1. Check vacuum line and vacuum line connections as well as vacuum check valve in front shell of power unit for possible vacuum loss. 2. Inspect all hydraulic lines and connections at the wheel cylinders and master cylinder for possible hydraulic leaks. 3. Check brake assemblies for scored drums, grease or brake fluid on linings, worn or glazed linings, and make necessary adjustments. 4. Check brake fluid level in the hydraulic reservoirs. The reservoirs should be filled to the levels shown in Figure 8. 5. Check for loose mounting bolts at master cylinder and at power section. 6. Check air cleaner filter in power replace filter if-T^s-a ' 7. Check brake pedal for binding and misalignment between pedal and push rod. Lubrication The power brake unit is lubricated at assembly and needs no further lubrication other than maintaining normal reservoir fluid level. The reservoir should be filled as described in this section. Bleeding Inspections The power system may be bled manually or with a pressure bleeder as outlined in this section. Use only GM Supreme 11 Brake Fluid or equivalent. Do not use the power assist while bleeding. The engine should not be running and the vacuum reserve ’ b edv-~d to zero by applying the brake *?. *.h-® h'zr.r'!ng procedure.Air Cleaner Service affect power brake response. At any other time, if cleaning of the filter is felt necessary, it should be shaken free of dirt or Servicing of the air cleaner is recommended and the washed in soap and water and thoroughly dried, element replaced when restriction becomes severe enough to COMPONENT PARTS REPLACEMENT POWER BRAKE UNIT Removal 1. Disconnect the brake lines from the two master cylinder hydraulic outlets. Cover brake line fittings to prevent dust and dirt from entering brake lines. 2. Disconnect the vacuum hose from the vacuum check valve on the front housing of the power head. Plug vacuum hose to prevent dust and dirt from entering hose. 3. Disconnect the power brake push rod from the brake pedal. 4. Remove the four nuts (inside vehicle) from the mounting studs which hold the power brake to the dash panel. 5. Carry the power brake to a clean work area and clean the exterior of the power brake prior to disassembly. Installation 1. Mount power brake assembly to dash. CAUTION: See "Caution" on Page 1 of this section. 2. Connect power brake push rod to brake pedal. 3. Connect vacuum hose to vacuum check valve. 4. Connect brake lines to master cylinder outlets. CAUTION: See "Caution" on Page 1 of this section. 5. Bleed brakes as necessary and fill fluid reservoirs to within 1/4” of top of the reservoirs.SPECIAL TOOLS □ 00 1. J-2185 Flaring Tool 2. J-8000 Tubing Cutter 3. J-8049 Spring Remover 4. J-21177 Drum/Shoe Gage 5. J-21472 Bleeder Wrench 6. J-22904 Dust Boot Installer 7. J-23518 Bleeder Adapter 8. J-23709 Combination Valve Pin Retainer Fig. 45—Special ToolsENGINE CONTENTS OF THIS SECTION Page Engine Tune-Up................................6-1 Engine Mechanical (V8)..........................6-26 Engine Mechanical (In Line).......................6-13 Special Tools ..................................6-40 ENGINE TUNE-UP INDEX Page General Description ..............................6-1 Mechanical Checks and Adjustments .................6-1 Spark Plug Removal............................6-1 Test Compression .............................6-2 Service and Install Spark Plugs....................6-2 Service Ignition System.........................6-3 Service Battery and Battery Cables ................6-4 Service Delcotron and Regulator..................6-5 Service Belts .................................6-5 Service Manifold Heat Valve .....................6-5 Tighten Manifold..............................6-5 Service Fuel Lines and Fuel Filter.................6-5 Service Cooiing System.........................6-6 Check and Adjust Accelerator Linkage .............6-6 Service Crankcase Ventilation ....................6-6 Service Air Injection Reactor System ..............6-7 Page Choke Adjustment............................6-7 Instrument Check-Out ...........................6-7 Instrument Hook-Up..........................6-7 Check and Adjust Dwell .......................6-7 Check Dwell Variation.........................6-8 Check and Adjust Timing ......................6-8 Adjust Idle Speed ............................6-9 Additional Checks and Adjustments.................6-9 Cylinder Balance Test .........................6-9 Battery ....................................6-10 Ignition ....................................6-10 Carburetor..................................6-11 Fuel Pump..................................6-11 Cooling System..............................6-11 Cylinder Head Torque and Valve Adjustment.......6-11 GENERAL DESCRIPTION The engine tune-up is important to the modern automotive engine with its vastly improved power and performance. Emission system requirements, interrelated system functions, improved electrical systems and other advances in design, make today’s engines more sensitive and have a decided effect on power, performance and fuel consumption. It is seldom advisable to attempt a tune up by correction of one or two items only. Time will normally be saved and more lasting results assured if the technician will follow a definite and thorough procedure of analysis and correction of all items affecting power, performance and economy. The tune-up will be performed in two parts. The first part will consist of mechanical checks and adjustments; the second part will consist of an instrument checkout that can be performed with any one of the units of service equipment available for this purpose. Always follow the instructions provided by the manufacturer of the particular equipment to be used. Additional checks and adjustments are included in the latter part of this section for use as required. Many of these operations can be used to isolate and correct trouble located during the tune-up. Where conditions are uncovered requiring major corrective action, refer to the appropriate section of this manual of the Chassis Overhaul Manual for detailed service information. Typical illustrations and procedures are used except where specific illustrations or procedures are necessary to clarify the operation. Illustrations showing bench operations are used for clarifications, however, all operations can be performed on the vehicle. MECHANICAL CHECKS AND ADJUSTMENTS SPARK PLUG REMOVAL remove plugs. To disconnect wire at spark plug, grasp the boot Remove any foreign matter from around spark plugs by portion of the wire and apply only enough force to remove the blowing out with compressed air, then disconnect wires and boot. Do not pull on wire.3. Crank engine through at least four compression strokes to obtain highest possible reading. 4. Check and record compression of each cylinder. 5. If one or more cylinders read low or uneven, inject about a tablespoon of engine oil on top of pistons in low reading cylinders (through spark plug port). Crank engine several times and recheck compression. • If compression comes up but does not necessarily reach normal, rings are worn. • If compression does not improve, valves are burnt, sticking or not seating properly. • If two adjacent cylinders indicate low compression and injecting oil does not increase compression, the cause may be a head gasket leak between the cylinders. Engine coolant and/or oil in cylinders could result from this defect. Fig. 1—Checking Compression TEST COMPRESSION (FIG. 1) The compression check is important because an engine with low or uneven compression cannot be tuned successfully. It is essential that improper compression be corrected before proceeding with the engine tune up. 1. Remove air cleaner and block throttle and choke in wide open position. 2. Hook up starter remote control cable and insert compression gauge firmly in spark plug port. CAUTION: Whenever the engine is cranked remotely at the starter, with a special jumper cable or other means, the distributor primary lead must be disconnected from the negative post on the coil. NOTE: If a weak cylinder cannot be located with the compression check, see "Cylinder Balance test" under "Additional Checks and Adjustments" in this section. SERVICE & INSTALL SPARK PLUGS (FIG. 2) Inspect each plug individually for badly worn electrodes, glazed, broken or blistered porcelains and replace plugs where necessary. Clean serviceable spark plugs thoroughly, using an abrasive-type cleaner such as sand blast. File the center electrode flat. Inspect each spark plug for make and heat range. All plugs must be of the same make and number. Adjust spark plug gaps to specifications using a round feeler gauge. 3. CAUTION: Never bend the center electrode to adjust gap. Always adjust by bending ground or side electrode. If available, test plugs with a spark plug tester. Inspect spark plug hole threads and clean before installing plugs. Corrosion deposits can be removed with a 14 mm. x 1.25 SAE spark plug tap (available through local jobbers) or by using a small wire brush in an electric drill. (Use grease on tap to catch chips.) CAUTION: Use exptreme care when using tap to prevent cross threading. Also crank engine several times to blow out any material dislodged during cleaning operation. 7. Install spark plugs and torque to specifications. NOTE: The following are some of the greatest causes of unsatisfactory spark plug performance. • Installation of plugs with insufficient torque to fully seat. • Installation of the plugs using excessive torque which changes gap settings. • Installation of plugs on dirty seat.• Installation of plugs to corrodcd spark plug hole threads. 8. Connect spark plug wiring. SERVICE IGNITION SYSTEM 1. Remove distributor cap, clean cap and inspect for cracks, carbon tracks and burned or corroded terminals. Replace cap where necessary (Fig. 3). 2. Clean rotor and inspect for damage or deterioration. Replace rotor where necessary. 3. Replace brittle, oil soaked or damaged spark plug wires. Install all wires to proper spark plug. Proper positioning of spark plug wires in supports is important to prevent cross-firing. 4. Tighten all ignition system connections. 5. Replace or repair any wires that are frayed, loose or damaged. 6. Check the distributor centrifugal advance mechanism by turning the distributor rotor in a clockwise direction as far as possible, then releasing the rotor to see if the springs return it to their retarded position. If the rotor does not return readily, the distributor must be disassembled and the cause of the trouble corrected. 7. Check to see that the vacuum control operates freely by turning the movable breaker plate counterclockwise to see if the spring returns to its retarded position. Any stiffness in the operation of the vacuum control will affect the ignition timing. Correct any interference or binding condition noted. 8. Examine distributor points and clean or replace if necessary. • Contact points with an overall gray color and only slight roughness or pitting need not be replaced. • Dirty points should be cleaned with a clean point file. Use only a few strokes of a clean, fine-cut contact file. The file should not be used on other metals and should not be allowed to become greasy or dirty. Never use emery cloth or sandpaper to clean contact points since particles will embed and cause arcing and rapid burning of points. Do not attempt to remove all roughness nor dress the point surfaces down smooth. Merely remove scale or dirt. • Clean cam lobe with cleaning solvent and rotate cam lubricator wick 180° as applicable. • Replace points that are burned or badly pitted. NOTE: Where prematurely burned or badly pitted points are encountered, the ignition system and engine should be checked to determine the cause of trouble so that it can be eliminated. Unless the condition causing point burning or pitting is corrected, new points will provide no better service than the old points. Refer to Section 6Y for an analysis of point burning or pitting. ERODED TOWER INSPECTION OF DISTRIBUTOR CAP TOWERS CLEANING A INSPECTION OF OUTSIDE OF DISTRIBUTOR CAP ROTOR INSPECTION CLEANING & INSPECTION OF INSIDE OF DISTRIBUTOR CAP CLEANING TOWER INSERT REPLACING DISTRIBUTOR _ CAP _ BLOWING OUT INSIDE OF DISTRIBUTOR CAP & INSPECTION OF INSERT _TERMINALS_ CLEANING IGNITION _COIL_ INSPECTION OF CARBON ROTOR BUTTON ROTORJIP INSUFFICIENT ROTOR CONTACT SPRING TENSION I BURNED OP ERODED INSERTBREAKER PLATE ATTACHING SCREWS Fig. 4—Distributor (In Line) • Check point alignment (Fig. 6) then, adjust distributor contact point gap to .019” (new points) or .016” (used points). Breaker arm rubbing block must be on high point of lobe during adjustment. NOTE: If contact points have been in service, they should be cleaned with a point file before adjusting with a feeler gauge. • Check distributor point spring tension (contact point pressure) with a spring gauge hooked to breaker lever at the contact and pull exerted at 90 degrees to the breaker lever. The points should be closed (cam follower between lobes) and the reading taken just as the points separate. If not within limits, replace. Excessive point pressure will cause excessive wear on the points, cam and rubbing block. Weak point pressure permits bouncing or clattering, resulting in arcing and burning -of the points and an ignition miss at high speed. 9. Install rotor and distributor cap. Press all wires firmly into cap towers. SERVICE BATTERY AND BATTERY CABLES 1. Measure the specific gravity of the electrolyte in each cell (Fig. 7). If it is below 1.230 (corrected to 80° F.) recharge with a slow rate charger, or if desired, further check battery. 2. Connect a voltmeter across the battery terminals and measure the terminal voltage of the battery during cranking (disconnect the coil primary lead at the negative terminal during this check to prevent engine from firing). If the terminal voltage is less than 9.0 volts at room temperature, approximately 80° ± 20° F., the battery should be further checked. See Section 6Y for further tests. 3. Inspect for signs of corrosion on battery, cables and surrounding area, loose or broken carriers, cracked or bulged cases, dirt and acid, electrolyte leakage and low electrolyte level. Fill cells to proper level with colorless, odorless, drinking water. The top of the battery should be clean and the battery hold-down bolts properly tightened. Particular care should be taken to see that the top of the battery is kept clean of acid film and dirt. When cleaning batteries, wash first with a dilute ammonia or soda solution toDO NOT SUCK IN TOO MUCH ELECTROLYTE AT EYE LEVEL Fig. 7—Testing Specific Gravity of Battery neutralize any acid present and then Hush oil with clean water. Keep vent plugs tight so that the neutralizing solution does not enter the cell. The hold down bolts should be kept tight enough to prevent the battery from shaking around in its holder, but they should not be tightened to the point where the battery case will be placed under a severe strain. To insure good contact, the battery cables should be tight on the battery posts. Oil battery terminal felt washer. If the battery posts or cable terminals are corroded, the cables should be cleaned separately with a soda solution and wire brush. Alter cleaning and before installing clamps, apply a thin coating or petrolatum to the posts and cable clamps to help retard corrosion. If the battery has remained undercharged, check for loose or defective fan belt, defective Delcotron, high resistance in the charging circuit, oxidized regulator contact points, or a low voltage setting. Fig. 9—Manifold Heat Control Valve (In Line) If the battery has been using too much water, the voltage output is too high. SERVICE DELCOTRON AND REGULATOR The Delcotron and regulator tests during tune up consist of the above battery tests: the condition of the battery indicating further tests and adjustments as outlined in Section 6Y. SERVICE BELTS (FIG. 8) Inspect belt condition. Check and adjust if necessary for correct tension of belt, as follows: • Using a strand tension gauge, check the belt tension. • If belt is below the minimum, adjust until the specified tension is reached. (See Tune Up Chart in Specification section.) SERVICE MANIFOLD HEAT VALVE (FIG. 9 or 10) Check manifold heat control valve for freedom of operation. If shaft is sticking, free it up with CM Manifold Heat Control Solvent or its equivalent. NOTE: Tap shaft end to end to help free it up. TIGHTEN MANIFOLD Tighten intake manifold bolts It) specifications in the sequence outlined on Torque Sequence Chart located at end of Engine Mechanical section. A slight leak at the intake manifold destroys engine performance and economy. SERVICE FUEL LINES AND FUEL FILTER 1. Inspect fuel lines for kinks, bends or leaks and correct any defects found. Refer to Section 8 for the correct fabrication and replacement procedures for fuel lines. 2. Inspect filter and replace if plugged.Fig. 10—Manifold Heat Control Valve (Typical V8) Fig. 11—Crankcase Ventilation Systems (In Line) PCV VALVE ARRESTOR NOTE: If a complaint of poor high speed performance exists on the vehicle, fuel pump tests described in Section 6M should be performed. SERVICE COOLING SYSTEM 1. Inspect cooling system for leaks, weak hoses, loose hose clamps and correct coolant level, and service as required. NOTE: A cooling system pressure test, as described in "Additional Checks and Adjustments" in this section, may be performed to detect internal or external leaks within the cooling system. CHECK AND ADJUST ACCELERATOR LINKAGE 1. Disconnect accelerator rod at carburetor throttle lever. 2. Hold carburetor throttle lever in wide open position. 3. Pull accelerator rod to wide open position. (On vehicles equipped with Powerglide, pull through detent.) 4. Adjust accelerator rod to freely enter hold in carburetor throttle lever. NOTE: Accelerator linkage is outlined in detail in Section 6M. 5. Connect accelerator rod at throttle lever. SERVICE CRANKCASE VENTILATION (FIGS. 11 and 12) All engines have a “Closed Positive” ventilation system utilizing manifold vacuum to draw fumes and contaminating vapors into the combustion chamber where they are burned. Since it affects every part of the engine, crankcase ventilation is an importnat function and should be understood and serviced properly. In a “Closed Positive” ventilation system, air is drawn through the engine, (through a regulating valve Fig. 13) into the manifold, drawing crankcase vapors and fumes with it to PCV VALVE 10 SERIESFig. 13—Crankcase Ventilation Valve be burned. The “Closed Positive” ventilation system draws clean air from the carburetor air cleaner and has a nonvented oil filter cap. 1. Ventilation valve should be replaced at intervals specified in Section O. 2. Inspect for deteriorated or plugged hoses. 3. Inspect all hose connections. 4. Remove flame arrcstor and wash in solvent, then dry with compressed air. 5. Inspect ventilation filter (Fig. 14) and replace if necessary. SERVICE AIR INJECTION REACTOR SYSTEM Inspect air injection reactor system for evidence of leaks, deteriorated hoses, cracked air manifolds or tubes and loose hose clamps. Inspect air injection pump belt condition and tension. Make all necessary repairs as outlined in “Section 6T.” Because of the relationship between “Engine Tune Up” and “Unburned Exhaust Gases,” the condition of Engine Tune Up should be checked whenever the Air Injection Reactor System seems to be malfunctioning. Particular care should be taken in checking items that affect fuel-air ratio such as the crankcase Fig. 14—Crankcase Ventilation Filter ventilation system, the carburetor and the carburetor air cleaner. Carburetors and distributors for engines with the Air Injection Reactor System and Controlled Combustion System are designed, particularly, for these engines; therefore, they must not be interchanged with or replaced by a carburetor or distributor designed for different applications. CHOKE ADJUSTMENT Inspect choke valve, choke rod, choke coil and housing for proper alignment, bends and binding — make necessary corrections to assure proper choke operation; then adjust choke as outlined in Section 6M. INSTRUMENT CHECK-OUT INSTRUMENT HOOK-UP Connect vacuum gauge, dwell meter, tachometer and timing light as recommended by the manufacturer of the equipment being used. CHECK AND ADJUST DWELL 1. Start engine then check ignition dwell. 2. If dwell is not within specifications, adjust dwell as follows: V8 Engines • With engine running at idle, raise the adjustment screw window and insert an Allen wrench in the socket of the adjusting screw (Fig. 15). • Turn the adjusting screw as required until the specified dwell reading is obtained. • Close access cover fully to prevent the entry of dirt into the distributor. CRANKCASE VENTILATION FILTERIN LINE ENGINES • Remove distributor cap and recheck point setting. If dwell is still not within specifications check the distributor as outlined in Section 6Y. CHECK DWELL VARIATION Slowly accelerate engine to 1750 rpm and note dwell reading. Return engine to idle and note dwell reading. If dwell variation exceeds specifications, check for worn distributor shaft, worn distributor shaft bushing or loose breaker plate. CHECK AND ADJUST IGNITION TIMING (FIG. 16) 1. Disconnect the distributor spark advance hose and plug the vacuum source opening. 2. Start engine and run at idle speed. See tune up chart in Specification section. 3. Aim timing light at timing tab. NOTE: The markings on the tabs are in 2° increments (the greatest number of markings on the "Before" side of the "O"). The "O" marking is TDC and all BTDC settings fall on the "Before" (advance side of "O". 4. Adjust the timing by loosening the distributor clamp and rotating the distributor body as required, then tighten the clamp and recheck timing. Fig. 16—Ignition Timing Marks 5. Stop engine and remove timing light and reconnect the spark advance hose. ROCHESTER CARBURETORS SINGLE-BARREL TWO-BARREL FOUR-BARREL IDLE MIXTURE SCREWS CEC SOLENOID IDLE SPEED (SOLENOID) SCREW IDLE SPEED (SOLENOID) SCREW IDLE SPEED (SOLENOID) SCREW IDLE MIXTURE SCREW IDLE MIXTURE SCREWSADJUST IDLE SPEED (FIG. 17) 1. With engine running at operating temperature, choke valve in fully open position, parking brake on and drive wheels blocked—adjust idle speed as follows (See “Tune-Up” Decal Figure 18): NOTE: All carburetors are equipped with idle mixture limiter caps (Fig. 17); the idle mixture is preset and "locked in” by these caps—no attempt should be made to adjust mixture. Do not remove mixture screw caps. 250 Cubic Inch (Single-Barrel Carburetor) Disconnect “Fuel Tank” line from Evaporation Emission vapor canister. Disconnect the distributor spark advance hose and plug the vacuum source opening. Adjust Idle Stop Solenoid screw to obtain 700 rpm with manual transmission in neutral; 600 rpm with automatic transmission in drive. Do not adjust CEC Solenoid Screw. Fig. 18—Tune-Up Decal CAUTION: If the CEC Solenoid Screw (Fig. 17) is used to set engine idle or if the solenoid is adjusted out of limits as specified in Section 6M, a decrease in engine braking may result. Reconnect “Fuel Tank” line to vapor canister and reconnect distributor spark advance hose. 307 Cubic Inch (Two-Barrel Carburetor) Disconnect the distributor spark advance hose and plug the vacuum source opening. Disconnect “Fuel Tank” line from Evaporation Emission vapor canister. With air conditioning off, adjust Idle Stop Solenoid screw to obtain 900 rpm with manual transmission in neutral; 600 rpm with automatic transmission in drive. With transmission in park or neutral, adjust carburetor fast idle cam screw to obtain 1850 rpm. Reconnect “Fuel Tank” line to vapor canister and reconnect distributor spark advance hose. 350 Cubic Inch (Four-Barrel Carburetor) On vehicles so equipped, disconnect “Fuel Tank” line from Evaporation Emission vapor canister. Disconnect the distributor spark advance hose and plug the vacuum source opening. On vehicles equipped with TCS system, turn air conditioning off, adjust Idle Stop Solenoid screw to obtain 800 rpm with manual transmission in neutral; 600 rpm with automatic transmission in drive. On vehicles without TCS system, adjust carburetor speed screw to obtain 600 rpm with transmission in neutral. Place fast idle cam follower on second step of fast idle cam, turn air conditioning “off” and adjust fast idle to 1350 rpm with manual transmission in neutral; 1500 rpm with automatic transmission in “Park”. Reconnect “Fuel Tank” line to vapor canister and rec6nnect distributor spark advance hose. ADDITIONAL CHECKS CYLINDER BALANCE TEST (FIG. 19) It is often difficult to locate a weak cylinder. A compression test, for example, will not locate a leaky intake manifold, a valve not opening properly due to a worn camshaft, or a defective spark plug. With the cylinder balance test, the power output of one cylinder may be checked against another, using a set of grounding leads. When the power output of each cylinder is not equal, the engine will lose power and run roughly. Perform a cylinder balance test as follows: 1. Connect the tachometer and vacuum gauge. 2. Start engine and run at 1500 rpm. AND ADJUSTMENTS 3. Ground large clip of grounding leads and connect individual leads to all spark plugs except the pair being tested. Divide the firing order in half and arrange one half over the other. The cylinders to be tested together appear one over the other. L6 Firing Order 1-5-3-6-2-4 = 1-5-3 = 1-6, 5-2, 3-4 6-2-4 V8 Firing Order 1-8-4-3-6-5-7-2 = 1-8-4-3 = 1-6, 8-5, 4-7, 3-2 6-5-7-24. Operate engine on each pair of cylinders in turn and note engine rpm and manifold vacuum for each pair. A variation of more than l inch of vacuum or 40 rpm between pairs of cylinders being tested indicates that the cylinders are off balance. BATTERY The battery should be checked with special testing equipment and to the equipment manufacturers’ specifications. See Section 6Y for complete information on battery tests. IGNITION The following additional ignition checks may be made with any of several pieccs of equipment available for uncovering the source of engine difficulties. The specific operating instructions of the equipment manufacturer should be followed. Cranking voltage Ignition switch Distributor resistance Secondary resistance Ignition output and secondary leakage CRANKING VOLTAGE (FIG. 20) 1. Disconnect coil primary lead at the coil negative terminal to prevent engine from firing during cranking 2. Connect voltmeter between primary terminal of coil (resistance wire side) and ground. 3. Operate starting motor. a. If voltage is 9 volts or more and cranking speed is satisfactory, the battery, starter, cables, starter switch and ignition circuit to coil (by-passing resistance wire) are in good condition. b. If below 9 volts, check circuit until difficulty is located. Meter reading below specification-Weak battery; defective cables, connections, switch or starter; defective ignition circuit to coil. Cranking speed below normal-Excessive resistance in cables or starting motor; excessive mechanical drag in engine. Uneven cranking speed— Uneven compression, defective starter to starter drive. IGNITION SWITCH With voltmeter connected as described for the Cranking Voltage Test, turn ignition switch to ON. Voltage should drop to 5 to 7 volts as current is now passing through high resistance wire connected between ignition switch and (+) positive terminal of coil. If battery voltage of 12 volts is obtained, the starter solenoid is by-passing the high resistance wire connccted between ignition switch and (+) positive terminal of coil, thus the starter solenoid is not functioning properly to by-pass the ignition resistance wire or the ignition circuit is incorrectly wired. NOTE: The voltage drop (12 to 5-7 volts) will only take place when the points are closed. If the points are open, the path through the resistance wire will not be completed. DISTRIBUTOR RESISTANCE Use equipment as directed by manufacturer. Excessive resistance in primary circuit must be eliminated before continuing with test procedure. nJ r|J H-l nJ > i \ i ) hv U"> CO •-SECONDARY RESISTANCE FUEL PUMP Use equipment as directed by manufacturer. • Uniform “normal readings” as specified by manufacturer indicate all secondary circuit components are in good condition. • If all readings are “below normal,” check for corroded coil lower terminal, poorly connected or broken coil wire, center cap electrode or rotor tip burned, or an open secondary in coil. • If readings are “higher than normal” at two or more plugs adjacent in firing order, cross firing is occuring in distributor cap or between spark plug cables concerned. • If meter reads off scale to left, the coil polarity is reversed. Check for reversed coil primary wires, wrong coil or reversed vehicle battery connections. IGNITION OUTPUT AND SECONDARY LEAKAGE Use equipment as directed by manufacturer. • GOOD reading indicate both ignition output and secondary insulation are good. • If all readings are BAD or if ignition test calibrator cannot be adjusted to Set Line, check for high resistance in primary circuit, defective distributor points, coil or condenser. • If reading are BAD when certain plug wires are lifted off, check for cracks or carbon tracks in distributor cap or defective insulation on those plug wires being lifted off. CARBURETOR Refer to Section 6M to perform adjustments such as idle vent, fast idle, pump rod and vacuum break. If the owner has complained of poor high speed performance, the fuel pump may be at fault. Too low a pump pressure of volume will cause a high speed “miss” because of lack of fuel delivered to the carburetor, while too high a pressure will cause carburetor flooding. Check fuel pump as outlined in Section 6M. COOLING SYSTEM The following test may be performed with pressure testing equipment available commercially for this purpose. This test provides an excellent means of detecting internal or external leaks within the cooling system. 1. Remove radiator cap. 2. Apply a test pressure of 3 pounds higher than the radiator cap (Fig. 24), i.e. 18 pounds for a 15 pound cap. 3. If the pressure will not hold, there is either an internal or external leak in the system. CYLINDER HEAD TORQUE AND VALVE ADJUSTMENT Retorquing the cylinder head bolts is not necessary unless a gasket has been replaced, or a leak is suspected. Valve lash must always be adjusted after the head has been torqued. HYDRAULIC VALVE ADJUSTMENT 1. Remove rocker arm cover(s) and gasket(s). CAUTION: Do not pry rocker arm cover loose. Gaskets adhering to cylinder head and rocker arm cover may be sheared by bumping end of rocker arm cover rearward with palm of hand or a rubber mallet. 2. Adjust valves on L-6 engines as follows: a. Mark distributor housing, with chalk, at number one and number six positions (plug wire) then disconnect plug wires at spark plugs and coil and remove distributor cap and plug wire assembly (if not previously done). b. Crank engine until distributor rotor points to number one cylinder position and breaker points are open. The following valves can be adjusted with engine in number one firing position: L6 Engine — Number one cylinder-Exhaust and Intake Number two cylinder-Intake Number three cylinder-Exhaust Number four cylinder-Intake Number five cylinder-Exhaust c. Back out adjusting nut until lash is felt at the push rod then turn in adjusting nut until all lash is removed. This can be determined by checking push rod end play while turning adjusting nut (Fig. 22). When play has been removed, turn adjusting nut in one full additional turn (to center lifter plunger). d. Crank engine until distributor rotor points to number six position and breaker points are open. HIThe following valves can be adjusted with engine in number six firing position: L6 Engine — Number two cylinder-Exhaust Number three cylinder-Intake Number four cylinder-Exhaust Number five cyliner-Intake Number six cylinder-Intake and Exhaust. 3. Adjust valves on V-8 engines using the following procedures: a. Crank engine until mark on torsional damper lines up with center or “0” mark on the timing tab and the engine is in the number l firing position. This may be determined by placing fingers on the number l cylinder valve as the mark on the damper comes near the “0” mark on the front cover. If the valves are not moving, the engine is in the number l firing position. If the valves move as the mark comes up to the timing tab, the engine is in number 6 firing position and crankshaft should be rotated one more revolution to reach the number l position. b. Valve adjustment is made by backing off the adjusting nut (rocker arm stud nut) until there is play in the push rod and then tighten nut to just remove all push rod to rocker arm clearance. This may be determined by rotating push rod with fingers as the nut is tightened (Fig. 23). When push rod does not readily move in relation to the rocker arm, the clearance has been eliminated. The adjusting nut should then be tightened an additional l turn to place the hydraulic lifter plunger in the center of its travel. No other adjustment is required. c. With the engine in the number l firing position as determined above, the following valves may be adjusted. Exhaust - l, 3, 4, 8 Intake — l, 2, 5, 7 d. Crank the engine one revolution until the pointer “0” mark and torsional damper mark are again in alignment. This is number 6 firing position. With the engine in this position the following valve may be adjusted. Exhaust - 2, 5, 6, 7 Intake - 3, 4, 6, 8 4. Clean gasket surfaces on cylinder head(s) and rocker arm cover(s) with degreaser, then install rocker arm cover(s), using new gasket(s), and torque bolts to specifications. 5. Install distributor cap and spark plug wire assembly. 6. Install rocker arm cover as outlined. 7. Adjust carburetor idle speed. Fig. 22—L-6 Valve Adjustment (Hydraulic) Fig. 23—V-8 Valve Adjustment (Hydraulic) XXLENGINE MECHANICAL IN-LINE ENGINE INDEX General Description.............................6- Component Replacement and Adjustment ...........6- Engine Assembly ............................6- Removal.................................6- Installation...............................6- Manifold Assembly...........................6- Removal.................................6- lnstallation...............................6- Rocker Arm Cover ...........................6- Removal.................................6- I installation...............................6- Valve Mechanism ............................6- Removal.................................(’>- Installation and Adjustment..................6- Valve Lifters................................6- Locating Noisy Lifters......................(>- Removal................................. Installation...............................6- Valve Stem Oil Seal and/or Valve Spring ..........6- Replacement .............................6- Cylinder Head Assembly.......................0- Removal.................................(>- Installation...............................f>- Oil Pan ....................................('>- Removal.................................6- Installation...............................6- Page 3 Oil Pump .............. Removal............. Installation........... Oil Seal (Rear Main)...... Replacement ......... Torsional Damper....... Removal............. installation........... Crankcase Front Cover Removal............. Installation........... Oil Seal (Front Cover) Replacement ......... Camshaft ............. Measuring Lobe Lift Removal............. Installation.......... Timing Gears .......... Replacement ........ Flywheel.............. Removal............ Installation.......... Engine Mounts.......... Checking Engine Mounts Replacement (Front) . . Replacement (Rear) . . . GENERAL DESCRIPTION The In-Line engine covered in this section is the 250 cu. in. L6 engine used in 10, 20 and 30G-Series truck. This section covers the removal and installation of engine assemblies, the removal, installation and adjustment of some sub-assemblies and replacement of some components. For service to all components and sub-assemblies (after removal) and removal of some sub-assemblies, refer to Section 6 of this Chassis Overhaul Manual. Because of the interchangeability and similarity of many engine sub-assemblies and parts, typical illustrations and procedures are used (except where specific illustrations or procedures are necessary to clarify the operation). Although illustrations showing bench operations are used, most single operations, when not part of a general overhaul, should be performed (if practical) with the engine in the vehicle. COMPONENT REPLACEMENT AND ADJUSTMENT ENGINE ASSEMBLY Removal 1. Remove engine cover and position it out of way. 2. Disconnect battery ground cable at engine block and at battery. 3. Drain cooling system and disconnect heater hoses at engine; disconnect radiator hoses at radiator. 4. Disconnect automatic transmission cooler lines at radiator. 10. Remove fan guard and radiator. Disconnect oil pressure gauge, if so equipped. Disconnect engine wiring harness at dash panel junction block. Disconnect Delcotron wires at rear of Delcotron. Disconnect TCS system electrical leads at carburetor mounted CEC valve and at temperature switch remove harness from clips and position it to one side. Disconnect Evaporation Control System lines at rocker arm cover and at carburetor- position lines to one side.Fig. 1 L—Brake Line Disconnects Fig. 3L—Suspension-to-Frame Attaching Bolts FRAME-TO-UPPER CONTROL ARM ATTACHING BOLTS DISCONNECT l l. Disconnect accelerator linkage at dash panel mounted bell crank. I 2. Disconnect power brake vacuum line at inlet manifold. 13. Raise vehicle on a hoist and disconnect: • Fuel line (from tank) at fuel pump. • Engine ground strap(s). • Steering idler arm at frame. • Steering pitman arm at steering gear as outlined in Section 9. • Battery positive cable at starter. • Speedometer cable at transmission. • TCS switch at transmission remove bell housing mounted clip and position wiring to one side. • Fxhaust pipe at manifold and at pipe hangers- then remove exhaust system from vehicle. • Transmission at crossmember. • Stabili/.er shaft at frame brackets. 14. Disconnect clutch linkage and/or transmission linkage and remove cross shaft as outlined in Section 7. 15. Disconnect shock absorbers at frame or at lower control arm attachment and position shocks up and rearward. 16. Remove propeller shaft as outlined in Section 4-install plug in transmission extension. 17. Disconnect front brake pipe at equalizer tee and disconnect rear brake pipe at connector at left frame rail (Fig. 1 L). 18. Disconnect rear brake pipe at right frame rail connector (Fig. 2L). 19. Remove transmission support frame-to-crossmember attaching nuts-do not remove bolts at this time. 20. Remove the six (3 on each side) vertically driven front crossmember-to-frame attaching bolts (Fig. 2L). 21. Remove the four (2 on each side) frame-to-upper control arm (inside) attaching bolts (Fig.3L). 22. Lower the vehicle on hoist so that weight of vehicle is on hoist but with wheels touching floor and suspension at curb height. 23. Install wood blocks between oil pan and crossmember to stabilize engine assembly (Fig. 4L). 24. Position floor jack under vehicle so that jack pad is aligned under transmission and, using a block of wood to protect transmission, support transmission with jack. 25. Remove transmission support crossmember. 26. Remove the four (2 on each side) remaining suspension-to-frame (outside) retaining bolts (Fig. 3L). 27. Raise vehicle slowly, leaving suspension and power train on the floor until sufficient clearance is obtained for removing engine. CAUTION: Check often when raising the vehicle to make sure that all disconnects have been made and that vehicle is positioned properly on hoist. 28. Roll the power train and suspension assembly to the work area and position jack stand under transmission extension—remove floor jack. 29. Place floor jack under suspension crossmember and raise jack so that weight of assembly is supported on jack pad. 30. Attach lifting adapter at engine lifting brackets. 31. Attach lifting device to support engine, remove engine mount through bolts and remove engine assembly from crossmember.Fig. 4L—Floor Jack Location Under Transmission (L-6) 33. Remove synchromesh transmission and clutch (if so equipped). a. Remove clutch housing rear cover bolts. b. Remove bolts attaching the clutch housing to engine block, then remove transmission and clutch housing as a unit. NOTE: Support the transmission as the last mounting bolt is removed and as it is being pulled away from the engine, to prevent damage to clutch disc. c. Remove starter and clutch housing rear cover. d. Loosen clutch mounting bolts a turn at a time (to prevent distortion of clutch cover) until the spring pressure is released. Remove all bolts, clutch disc and pressure plate assembly. 34. Remove automatic transmission (if so equipped). a. Lower engine, secured by the hoist, and support engine on blocks. b. Remove starter and converter housing underpan. c. Remove flywheel-to-converter attaching bolts. d. Support transmission on blocks. e. Disconnect throttle linkage and vacuum modulator on Powerglide. Disconnect detent cable on Turbo Hydra-Matic. f. Remove transmission-to-engine mounting bolts. g. With the hoist attached, remove blocks from the engine only and slowly guide the engine away from the transmission. 35. Mount engine in engine stand and remove lifting device and lifting adapter. Installation 1. If engine was mounted in an engine stand, attach lifting adapter-to-engine, then using lifting device, remove engine from stand and perform the following: • Install synchromesh transmission and clutch (if so equipped). a. Install the clutch assembly on flywheel as outlined in Section 7. b. Install clutch housing rear cover and starter. c. Install the transmission and clutch housing as outlined in Section 7. d. Install clutch housing bolts and torque to specifications. • Install automatic transmission (if so equipped). a. Position engine adjacent to the transmission and align the converter with the flywheel. b. Bolt transmission to engine and then raise engine and transmission assembly and install flywheel to converter bolts. c. Install converter housing underpan and starter. d. Connect throttle linkage and vacuum modulator. Connect detent cable on Turbo Hydra-Matic. 2. Raise engine and align mounts on engine with brackets on crossmember—install engine mount through bolts. 3. Place wood block between oil pan and crossmember to stabilize power train. 4. Remove floor jack from under crossmember and position jack pad under transmission assembly, using wood blocks at jack pad to protect transmission. 5. Remove the lifting device from engine brackets. 6. Roll the power train and suspension assembly under vehicle so that crossmember is aligned with frame. 7. Slowly lower the vehicle, checking often to assure that engine components do not interfere with vehicle as it is being lowered, until suspension to frame attaching bolt holes are aligned. 8. Install and securely tighten suspension to-frame attaching bolts. 9. Install transmission support crossmember, and remove floor jack from beneath the transmission. 10. Raise vehicle on the hoist and install the remaining suspension-to-frame attaching bolts—torque bolts-to-specifications. Torque transmission-to-crossmember and crossmember to frame bolts to specifications. 11. Install propeller shaft as outlined in Section 4. 12. Connect rear brake pipe at right frame rail connector; connect front brake pipe at equalizer tee and connect rear brake pipe at left frame rail connector. 13. Install and torque shock absorber attaching bolts to specifications. Connect stabilizer shaft to frame. 14. Install cross shaft and connect clutch linkage and/or transmission linkage as outlined in Section 7. 15. Connect the following items: • Fuel line (from tank) at fuel pump. • Engine ground strap(s). • Steering idler arm at frame; then steering pitman arm at steering gear and torque nut to specifications. • Battery positive cable at starter. • Speedometer cable at transmission. • TCS switch at transmission—install TCS wire to clip at transmission/clutch housing • Install exhaust system. 16. Remove wood block placed between crossmember and oil pan. 17. Lower vehicle on hoist. 18. Connect accelerator linkage at dash panel mounted bell crank. 19. Connect Evaporation Control System lines at rocker arm cover and at carburetor.20. Connect TCS system electrical leads at carburetor mounted CEC valve and at temperature switch-position harness in rocker arm cover clips. 21. Connect electrical leads at rear of Delcotron. 22. Connect engine wiring harness at dash panel junction block. 23. Connect oil pressure gauge line if so equipped. 24. Install radiator and fan guard, connect radiator and heater hoses, install automatic transmission cooler lines and fill cooling system. 25. Connect battery ground cable at engine block and at battery. 26. Connect power brake vacuum hose at inlet manifold fitting. 27. Install engine cover. 28. Bleed front and rear brakes as outlined in Section 5. 29. Start engine, check and add engine coolant as required and check engine for proper operation. MANIFOLD ASSEMBLY Removal 1. Remove engine cover and position out of way. 2. Disconnect battery ground cable at battery. 3. Disconnect engine wiring harness at rocker cover, at dash panel and position so that it will not interfere with manifold removal. 4. Remove air cleaner, air cleaner extension and flame arrestor from rocker cover. 5. Disconnect crankcase ventilation hose at rocker cover. 6. Disconnect choke rod, fuel and vacuum lines at carburetor and remove Transmission Controlled Spark solenoid. 7. Disconnect both throttle rods at bellcrank. 8. Raise vehicle on a hoist and disconnect exhaust pipe at manifold flange-discard packing—and lower vehicle. 9. Remove manifold attaching bolts and clamps then remove manifold assembly and discard gaskets. 10. Check for cracks in manifold castings. 11. Separate manifolds by removing one bolt and two nuts at center of assembly. Transfer all necessary parts. Installation 1. Clean gasket surfaces on cylinder head and manifolds. 2. Lay a straight edge along the full length of the exhaust port faces and measure any gaps between the straight edge and the port faces. If at any point a gap of .030 or more exists, it is likely the manifold has distorted to a point where it will not seat properly. If a good exhaust seal is to be expected, the exhaust manifold must be replaced. 3. Reinstall the one bolt and two nuts at the center of the manifold to finger tight. 4. Position new gasket over manifold end studs on the cylinder head. 5. Install manifold assembly bolts and clamps while holding manifold assembly in place by hand. 6. Clean, oil and torque all manifold assembly-to-cylinder head bolts and nuts to specifications. 7. Complete torquing the inlet to exhaust manifold bolt and two nuts at the center of the manifold to specifications. 8. Connect exhaust pipe to manifold using a new packing. 9. Connect crankcase ventilation hose at rocker arm cover. 10. Install air cleaner extension and flame arrestor, then install air cleaner and heat tube-connecting vacuum and emission lines as required. 11. Connect engine wiring harness to dash panel and rocker cover. 12. Install engine cover and connect battery ground cable. 13. Start engine, check for leaks and adjust carburetor idle speed per decal instructions as required. ROCKER ARM COVER Removal 1. Disconnect crankcase ventilation hose at rocker arm cover. 2. Remove air cleaner, air cleaner extension and flame arrestor. 3. Disconnect all wires from rocker arm cover clips. 4. Remove rocker arm cover. Installation 1. Clean gasket surfaces on cylinder head and rocker arm cover with degreaser then, using a new gasket, install rocker arm cover and torque to specifications. 2. Connect wires at rocker arm cover clips. 3. Install air cleaner extension, flame arrestor and air cleaner. 4. Connect crankcase ventilation hoses. VALVE MECHANISM Removal 1. Remove rocker arm cover as outlined. 2. Remove rocker arm nuts, rocker arm balls, rocker arms and push rods. NOTE: Place rocker arms, rocker arm balls and push rods in a rack so they may be reinstalled in the same location. Installation and Adjustment NOTE: Whenever new rocker arms and/or rocker arm balls are being installed, coat bearing surfaces of rocker arms and rocker arm balls with "Molykote" or its equivalent. 1. Install push rods. Be sure push rods seat in lifter socket. 2. Install rocker arms, rocker arm balls and rocker arm nuts. Tighten rocker arm nuts until all lash is eliminated. 3. Adjust valves when lifter is on base circle of cam shaft lobe as follows: a. Mark distributor housing, with chalk, at number one and number six cylinder positions (plug wire) then disconnect plug wires at spark plugs and coiland remove distributor cap and plug wire assembly (if not previously done). b. Crank engine until distributor rotor points to number one cylinder position and breaker points are open. The following valves can be adjusted with engine in number one firing position. Number one cylinder-Exhaust and Intake Number two cylinder-Intake Number three cylinder-Exhaust Number four cylinder-Intake Number five cylinder-Exhaust c. Back out adjusting nut until lash is felt at the push rod then turn in adjusting nut until all lash is removed. This can be determined by checking push rod end play while turning adjusting nut (Fig. 5L). When play has been removed, turn adjusting nut in one full additional turn (to center lifter plunger). d. Crank engine until distributor rotor points to number six position and breaker points are open. The following valves can be adjusted with engine in number six firing position: Number two cylinder-Exhaust Number three cylinder-Intake Number four cylinder-Exhaust Number five cylinder-Intake Number six cylinder-Intake and Exhaust 4. Install distributor cap and spark plug wire assembly. 5. Install rocker arm cover as outlined. 6. Adjust carburetor idle speed and mixture. Valve Lifters Hydraulic valve lifters very seldom require attention. The lifters are extremely simple in design, readjustments are not necessary, and servicing of the lifters requires only that care and cleanliness be exercised in the handling of parts. Fig. 5L—Valve Adjustment Locating Noisy Lifters Locate a noisy valve lifter by using a piece of garden hose approximately four feet in length. Place one end of the hose near the end of each intake and exhaust valve with the other end of the hose to the ear. In this manner, the sound is localized making it easy to determine which lifter is at fault. Another method is to place a finger on the face of the valve spring retainer. If the lifter is not functioning properly, a distinct shock will be felt when the valve returns to its seat. The general types of valve lifter noise are as follows: 1. Hard Rapping Noise—Usually caused by the plunger becoming tight in the bore of the lifter body to such an extent that the return spring can no longer push the plunger back up to working position. Probable causes are: a. Excessive varnish or carbon deposit causing abnormal stickiness. b. Galling or “pickup” between plunger and bore of lifter body, usually caused by an abrasive piece of dirt or metal wedging between plunger and lifter body. 2. Moderate Rapping Noise—Probable causes are: a. Excessively high leakdown rate. b. Leaky check valve seat. c. Improper adjustment. 3. General Noise Throughout the Valve Train—This will, in most cases, be caused by either insufficient oil supply or improper adjustment. 4. Intermittent Clicking—Probable causes are: a. A microscopic piece of dirt momentarily caught between ball seat and check valve ball. b. In rare cases, the ball itself may be out-of-round or have a flat spot. c. Improper adjustment. In most cases, where noise exists in one or more lifters, all lifter units should be removed, disassembled, cleaned in a solvent, reassembled, and reinstalled in the engine. If dirt, varnish, carbon, etc. is shown to exist in one unit, it more than likely exists in all the units, thus it would only be a matter of time before all lifters caused trouble. Removal 1. Remove valve mechanism as outlined. 2. Mark distributor housing, with chalk, at number one and number six cylinder position (plug wire) then disconnect plug wires at spark plugs and coil and remove distributor cap and plug wire assembly. 3. Crank engine until distributor rotor points to number one position, then disconnect distributor primary lead at coil and remove distributor. 4. Remove push rod covers (discard gaskets). 5. Remove valve lifters. NOTE: Place valve lifters in a rack so they may be reinstalled in the same location. Installation 1. Install valve lifters.Fig. 6L—CompressingValve Spring NOTE: Whenever new valve lifters are being installed, coat foot of valve lifters with "Molykote" or its equivalent. 2. Install push rod covers, using new gaskets, and torque to specifications. 3. Install distributor, positioning rotor to number one cylinder position, then connect primary lead at coil. 4. Install and adjust valve mechanism as outlined. 5. Adjust ignition timing and carburetor idle speed and mixture. VALVE STEM OIL SEAL AND/OR VALVE SPRING Replacement 1. Remove rocker arm cover as outlined. 2. Remove spark plug, rocker arm and push rod on the cylinder(s) to be serviced. 3. Install air line adapter Tool J-23590 to spark plug port and apply compressed air to the spark plug hole to hold the valves in place. 4. Using Tool J-5892 to compress the valve spring, remove the valve locks, valve cap, valve shield and valve spring and damper (Fig. 6L). 5. Remove the valve stem oil seal. 6. To replace, set the valve spring and damper, valve shield and valve cap in place. The closely coiled end of the spring is installed against the cylinder head. Compress the spring with Tool J-5892 and install oil seal in the lower groove of the stem, making sure the seal is flat and not twisted. NOTE: A light coat of oil on the seal will help prevent twisting. 7. Install the valve locks and release the compressor tool, making sure the locks seat properly in the upper groove of the valve stem. NOTE: Grease may be used to hold the locks in place while releasing the compressor tool. 8. Install spark plug and torque to specifications. 9. Install and adjust valve mechanism as outlined. CYLINDER HEAD ASSEMBLY Removal 1. Remove manifold assembly as outlined. 2. Remove valve mechanism as outlined. 3. Drain cooling system (block). 4. Remove fuel and vacuum line from retaining clip at wdter outlet then disconnect wires from temperature sending units. 5. Disconnect upper radiator hose at water outlet housing and battery ground strap at cylinder head. 6. Remove coil. 7. Remove cylinder head bolts, cylinder head and gasket. Place cylinder head on two blocks of wood to prevent damage. Installation CAUTION: The gasket surfaces on both the head and the block must be clean of any foreign matter and free of nicks or heavy scratches. Cylinder bolt threads in the block and threads on the cylinder head bolt must be cleaned. (Dirt will affect bolt torque.) Do Not use gasket sealer on composition steel asbestos gaskets. 1. Place the gasket in position over the dowel pins with the bead up. 2. Carefully guide cylinder head into place over dowel pins and gasket. 3. Coat threads of cylinder head bolts with sealing compound and install finger tight. 4. Tighten cylinder head bolts a little at a time in theFig. 8L—Oil Pan Gasket and Seal Location sequence shown on the torque sequence chart until the specified torque is reached. 5. Install coil. 6. Connect upper radiator hose and engine ground strap. 7. Connect temperature sending unit wires and install fuel and vacuum lines in clip at water outlet. 8. Fill cooling system. 9. Install manifold assembly as outlined. 10. Install and adjust valve mechanism as outlined. 11. Install and torque rocker arm cover. OIL PAN Removal 1. Disconnect battery ground cable. 2. Raise vehicle on a hoist and disconnect starter at engine block-leave electrical connections intact and position starter out of way. 3. Remove bolts securing engine mounts to crossmember brackets-then, using a suitable jack with a flat piece of wood to protect oil pan, raise engine sufficiently to insert 2” x 4” wood block between engine mounts and crossmember brackets (Fig. 7L). 4. Drain engine oil and remove flywheel (convertor) cover. 5. Remove oil pan bolts and withdraw oil pan from engine. Installation 1. Discard old gaskets and seals, thoroughly clean all gasket sealing surfaces. 2. Install new rear seal in rear main bearing cap. Fig. 9L—Oil Seal Installation Tool 3. Install new front seal on crankcase front cover, pressing tips into holes provided in cover. 4. Install new side gaskets on cylinder block (Fig. 8L). NOTE: Do not use sealer. 5. Position oil pan to block, making sure that seals and gaskets remain in place, install and torque pan screws to specifications. 6. Raise engine as outlined above and remove blocks used to support engine. 7. Lower engine, install and torque mount-to-crossmember bracket bolts. 8. Install starter and flywheel (convertor) cover. 9. Fill engine with specified quantity of oil, then start engine and check for leaks. OIL PUMP Removal 1. Remove oil pan as outlined. 2. Remove two flange mounting bolts, pickup pipe bolt, then remove pump and screen as an assembly. Installation 1. Align oil pump drive shafts to match with distributor tang, then install oil pump to block, positioning flange over distributor lower bushing. Use no gasket.Fig. 11 L—Removing Oil Seal (Upper Half) Typical NOTE: Oil pump should slide easily into place, if not, remove and reposition slot to align with distributor tang. 2. Install oil pan as outlined. OIL SEAL (REAR MAIN) Replacement NOTE: Always replace the upper and lower seal as a unit. Install seal with lip facing front of engine. The rear main bearing oil seal can be replaced (both halves) without removal of the crankshaft. Extreme care should be exercised when installing this seal to protect the sealing bead located in the channel on the outside diameter of the seal. An installation tool (Fig. 9L), can be used to protect the seal bead when positioning upper half of seal between crankshaft and block as follows. 1. With the oil pan and oil pump removed, remove the rear main bearing cap. 2. Remove oil seal from the bearing cap by prying from the bottom with a small screw driver (Fig. 10L). 3. To remove the upper half of the seal, use a small hammer Fig. 13L—Removing Torsional Damper to tap a brass pin punch on one end of seal until it protrudes far enough to be removed with pliers (Fig. 11L). 4. Clean all sealant and foreign material from cylinder case bearing cap and crankshaft, using a non-abrasive cleaner. 5. Inspect components for nicks, scratches, burrs and machining defects at all sealing surfaces, case assembly and crankshaft. 6. Coat seal lips and seal bead with light engine oil - keep oil off seal mating ends. 7. Position tip of tool between crankshaft and seal seat in cylinder case. 8. Position seal between crankshaft and tip of tool so that seal bead contacts tip of tool. NOTE: Make sure that oil-seal lip is positioned toward front of engine. 9. Roll seal around crankshaft using tool as a “shoe-horn” APPLY SEALANT TO SHADED AREAS ONLYlto protect seal bead from sharp corner of seal seat surface in cylinder case. . CAUTION: Installation tool must remain in position until seal is properly positioned with both ends flush with block. 10. Remove tool, being careful not to withdraw seal. 11. Install seal half in bearing cap, again using tool as a “shoe-horn”, feeding seal into cap using light pressure with thumb and finger. 12. Install bearing cap to case with sealant applied to the cap-to-case interface being careful to keep sealant off the seal split line (Fig. 12L). 13. Install the rear main bearing cap (with new seal) and torque to specifications. TORSIONAL DAMPER Removal 1. Drain radiator and disconnect radiator hoses at radiator. 2. Remove radiator core, as outlined in Section 13. 3. Remove fan belt and (if so equipped) accessory drive pulley and belt. 4. Install Tool J-23523 (supersedes J-6978) to damper and turn puller screw to remove damper (Fig. 13L). Remove tool from damper. Installation CAUTION: The inertia weight section of the torsional damper is assembled to the hub with a rubber type material. The installation procedures (with proper tool) must be followed or movement of the inertia weight section on the hub will destroy the tuning of the torsional damper. 1. Coat front seal contact area (on damper) with engine oil. 2. Install torsional damper as follows: a. Attach damper installer Tool J-22197 to damper. Tighten fingers of tool to prevent inertia weight from moving (Fig. 14L). b. Position damper on crankshaft and drive into position, using J-5590, until it bottoms against crankshaft gear. Remove installer tool. Fig. 16L—Installing Oil Seal (Cover Removed) 3. Install fan belt and adjust using strand tension gauge. 4. If so equipped, install accessory drive pulley and belt. 5. Install radiator core as outlined in Section 13. 6. Connect radiator hoses. 7. Fill cooling system and check for leaks. CRANKCASE FRONT COVER Removal 1. Remove oil pan as outlined. 2. Remove crankshaft pulley and torsional damper as outlined. 3. Remove crankshaft front cover attaching screws, remove cover and gasket. J-23042Fig. 18L—Measuring Camshaft Lobe Lift Installation 1. Clean gasket surfaces on block and crankcase front cover. 2. Install centering Tool J-23042 in crankcase front cover seal (Fig. 15L). 3. Coat the gasket with gasket sealer and place in position on cover, then install crankcase front cover to block and torque to specifications. 4. Remove centering tool. NOTE: It is important that centering tool be used to align crankcase front cover so that crankshaft damper installation will not damage seal and to position seal evenly around the damper surface. 5. Install crankshaft damper as outlined. 6. Install oil pan as outlined. OIL SEAL (FRONT COVER) Replacement With Cover Removed 1. With cover removed, pry old seal out of cover from the front with a large screwdriver, being careful not to distort cover. 2. Install new seal so that open end of the seal is toward the inside of cover, and drive it into position with Tool J-23042 (Fig. 16L). CAUTION: Support cover at sealing area. (Tool J-971 may be used as support.) Without Cover Removed 1. With crankshaft pulley and damper removed, pry old seal out of cover from the front with a large screwdriver, being careful not to damage the seal surface on the crankshaft. 2. Install new seal so that open end of seal is toward the inside of cover and drive it into position with Tool J-23042 (Fig. 17L). CAMSHAFT Measuring Lobe Lift NOTE: Procedure is similar to that used for checking valve timing. If improper valve operation is indicated, measure the lift of each push rod in consecutive order and record the readings. 1. Remove valve mechanism as outlined. 2. Position indicator with ball socket adapter (Tool J-8520) on push rod (Fig. 18L). 3. Rotate the crankshaft slowly in the direction of rotation until the lifter is on the heel of the cam lobe. At this point, the push rod will be in its lowest position. 4. Set dial indicator on zero, then rotate the crankshaft slowly, or attach an auxiliary starter switch and “bump” the engine over, until the push rod is in the fully raised position. CAUTION: The distributor primary lead must be disconnected from the negative post on the coil. 5. Compare the total lift recorded from the dial indicator with specifications. 6. Continue to rotate the crankshaft until the indicator reads zero. This will be a check on the accuracy of the original indicator reading. 7. If camshaft readings for all lobes are within specifications, remove dial indicator assembly. 8. Install and adjust valve mechanism as outlined.Fig. 20L—Checking Camshaft Gear Runout Removal 1. Remove valve lifters as outlined. 2. Remove crankcase front cover as outlined. 3. Remove grille as outlined in Section 13. 4. Remove fuel pump as outlined in Section 6M. 5. Align timing gear marks then remove the two camshaft thrust plates screws by working through holes in the camshaft gear (Fig. 19L). 6. Remove the camshaft and gear assembly by pulling it out through the front of the block. NOTE: Support camshaft carefully when removing so as not to damage camshaft bearings. Installation 1. Install the camshaft and gear assembly in the engine block, being careful not to damage camshaft bearings or camshaft. 2. Turn crankshaft and camshaft so that the valve timing marks on the gear teeth will line up (Fig. 19L). Push camshaft into position. Install camshaft thrust plate-to-block screws and torque to specifications. 3. Check camshaft and crankshaft gear run out with a dial indicator (Fig. 20L). The camshaft gear run out should not exceed .004” and the crankshaft gear run out should not exceed .003”. 4. If gear run out is excessive, the gear will have to be removed and any burrs cleaned from the shaft or the gear will have to be replaced. 5. Check the backlash between the timing gear teeth with a dial indicator (Fig. 21 L). The backlash should be not less than .004” nor more than .006”. 6. Install fuel pump as outlined in Section 6M. 7. Install grille as outlined in Section 13. 8. Install crankcase front cover as outlined. 9. Install valve lifters as outlined. Fig. 21 L—Checking Timing Gear Backlash TIMING GEARS Replacement With camshaft removed, crankshaft gear may be removed using Tool J-8105 (Fig. 22L). To install crankshaft gear use Tool J-5590 (Fig. 23L). For camshaft gear replacement, refer to “Camshaft Disassembly” in the Chassis Overhaul Manual. FLYWHEEL Removal 1. Remove transmission and/or clutch housing and clutch from engine. 2. Remove flywheel retaining bolts and remove flywheel. Installation 1. Clean the mating surfaces of llywheel and crankshaft to make certain there are no burrs.Fig. 23L— Installing Crankshaft Gear 2. Install flywheel on crankshaft and position to align dowel hole of crankshaft flange and flywheel (Fig. 24L). 3. Install flywheel retaining bolts and torque to specifications. ENGINE MOUNTS Engine mounts are the non-adjustable type and seldom require service. Broken or deteriorated mounts should be replaced immediately, because of the added strain placed on other mounts and drive line components. CHECKING ENGINE MOUNTS Front Mount Raise the engine to remove weight from the mounts and to place a slight tension in the rubber. Observe both mounts while raising engine. If an engine mount exhibits: a. Hard rubber surface covered with heat check cracks; b. Rubber separated from a metal plate of the mount; or c. Rubber split through center. Replace the mount. If there is relative movement between a metal plate of the mount and its attaching points, lower the engine on the mounts and tighten the screws or nuts attaching the mount to the engine, frame, or bracket. Rear Mount Raise the car on a hoist. Push up and pull down on the transmission tailshaft while observing the transmission mount. If the rubber separates from the metal plate of the mount or if the tailshaft moves up but not down (mount bottomed out) replace the mount. If there is relative movement between a metal plate of the mount and its attaching point, tighten the screws or nuts attaching the mount to the transmission or crossmember. Front Mount Replacement. (Fig. 25L) 1. Raise vehicle on hoist. 2. On manual transmission equipped vehicles. a. Disconnect clutch rod at outboard lever on clutch cross shaft. CONVERTER BOLT AREA DEPRESSED RING GEAR SYNCHROMESH TRANS. AUTOMATIC 'DOWEL HOLEb. Remove the two bolts securing clutch cross shaft bracket to frame side rail, and position clutch linkage away from engine mount. 3. Remove mount-to-bracket through-bolt. 4. Raise engine sufficiently to clear mount. Remove bolts securing mount to frame bracket. 5. Install new mount to frame bracket, and torque bolts to specifications. 6. Lower engine to align mount with engine bracket. Install through bolt and torque to specifications. 7. On manual transmission equipped vehicles. a. Position clutch cross shaft between frame side rail and ball stud on engine bracket. Install and torque frame bolts. b. Connect clutch rod at outboard lever on clutch cross shaft. 8. Lower vehicle on hoist and check operation of clutch. Rear Mount Replacement (Fig. 26L) 1. Raise vehicle on hoist and support transmission so as not to interfere with support crossmember removal. 2. Remove bolts securing rear mount to support crossmember. 3. Remove support crossmember retaining bolts from underbody cross rail and withdraw support from vehicle. 4. Remove bolts securing mount to transmission extension. 5. Install new rear mount and torque bolts to specifications. 6. Position support crossmember to cross rail, install bolts then loosely install crossmember-to-mount retaining bolts. 7. Remove support from rear of transmission, torque remaining bolts to specifications and lower vehicle on hoist.ENGINE MECHANICAL V-8 ENGINES INDEX Page General Description............................6-26 Component Replacement and Adjustment (V8).......6-26 Engine Assembly............................6-26 Removal................................6-26 Installation..............................6-28 Intake Manifold.............................6-29 Removal................................6-29 Installation..............................6-29 Exhaust Manifold ...........................6-30 Removal................................6-30 Installation..............................6-30 Rocker Arm Cover...........................6-30 Removal................................6-30 Installation..............................6-30 Valve Mechanism............................6-30 Removal................................6-30 Installation and Adjustment.................6-30 Valve Lifters ...............................6-31 Locating Noisy Lifters .....................6-31 Removal................................6-31 Installation..............................6-31 Valve Stem Oil Seal and/or Valve Spring..........6-31 Replacement.............................6-31 Cylinder Head Assembly......................6-32 Removal................................6-32 Installation..............................6-32 Oil Pan....................................6-32 Page Removal.................................6-32 Installation...............................6-32 Oil Pump...................................6-32 Removal .................................6-32 Installation ...............................6-32 Oil Seal (Rear Main) ..........................6-33 Replacement..............................6-33 Torsional Damper ............................6-34 Removal .................................6-34 Installation ...............................6-34 Crankcase Front Cover ........................6-35 Removal.................................6-35 Installation ...............................6-35 Oil Seal (Front Cover).........................6-35 Replacement..............................6-35 Timing Chain and/or Sprockets..................6-36 Camshaft.................................6-36 Measuring Lobe Lift ........................6-36 Removal.................................6-37 Installation...............................6-37 Flywheel ....................................6-37 Removal.................................6-37 Installation...............................6-37 Engine Mounts...............................6-38 Checking Engine Mounts.....................6-38 Replacement (Front) .......................6-38 Replacement (Rear) ........................6-39 GENERAL DESCRIPTION The V8 engines covered in this section are the 307 and 350 cu. in. engines. This section covers the removal and installation of engine assemblies; the removal, installation and adjustment of some sub-assemblies and replacement of some components. For service to all components and sub-assemblies (after removal) and removal of some sub-assemblies, refer to Section 6 of the Chassis Overhaul Manual. Because of the interchangeability and similarity of many engines, engine sub-assemblies and parts, typical illustrations and procedures are used (except where specific illustrations or procedures are necessary to clarify the operation). Although illustrations showing bench operations are used, most single operations, when not part of a general overhaul, should be performed (if practical) with the engine in the vehicle. COMPONENT REPLACEMENT AND ADJUSTMENT Engine Assembly 5-Removal 6- 1. Remove engine cover and position it out of way. 7. 2. Disconnect battery ground cable at engine block and at 8. battery. 3. Drain cooling system and disconnect heater hoses at 9. engine; disconnect radiator hoses at radiator. 4. Disconnect automatic transmission cooler lines at 10. radiator; remove radiator shroud and radiator. Remove carburetor air cleaner and remove engine oil filler tube. Remove Delcotron and support bracket — position assembly out of way on left frame rail. Disconnect oil pressure gauge if so equipped. Disconnect engine wiring harness at dash panel junction block. Disconnect accelerator linkage at dash panel mounted bell crank. Disconnect TCS system electrical leads-remove harness from clips and position it to one side.11. Disconnect Evaporation Control System lines at rocker arm cover and at carburetor—position lines to one side. 12. Disconnect power brake vacuum hose at rocker arm tube-to-hose junction. 13. Raise vehicle on a hoist and disconnect: • Fuel line (from tank) at fuel pump. • Engine ground strap(s). • Steering idler arm at frame. • Steering pitman arm at steering gear as outlined in Section 9. • Stabilizer shaft at frame brackets. • Battery positive cable at starter. • Shock absorbers at lower control arm. • Speedometer cable at transmission. • TCS switch at transmission—remove bell housing mounted clip and position wiring to one side. • Transmission at crossmember. • Exhaust crossover at manifolds and at muffler. 14. Remover propeller shaft as outlined in Section 4—install plug in transmission extension. 15. Disconnect clutch linkage and/or transmission linkage and remove cross shaft as outlined in Section 7. 16. Disconnect front brake pipe at equalizer tee, disconnect rear brake pipe at left frame rail mounted connector and at right frame rail mounted connector (Fig. IV). 17. Remove transmission support frame-to-crossmember attaching nuts—do not remove bolts at this time. 18. Remove the six (3 on each side) vertically driven front crossmember-to-frame attaching bolts (Fig. 2V). 19. Remove the four (2 on each side) frame-to-upper control arm (inside) attaching bolts (Fig. 3V). 20. Lower the vehicle on hoist so that weight of vehicle is on hoist but with wheels touching floor and suspension at curb height. 21. Install wood block between oil pan and crossmember to stabilize engine assembly (Fig. 4V). 22. Position floor jack under vehicle so that jack pad is aligned under transmission and, using a block of wood to protect transmission, support transmission with jack (Fig. 5V). 23. Remove transmission support crossmember. 24. Remove the four (2 on each side) remaining suspension-to-frame (outside) retaining bolts (Fig. 3V). 25. Raise vehicle slowly, leaving suspension and power train on the floor, until sufficient clearance is obtained for removing engine. CAUTION: Check often when raising the vehicle to make sure that all disconnects have been made and that vehicle is positioned properly on hoist. 26. Roll the power train and suspension assembly to the work area and position jack stand under transmission extension (Fig. 6V)—remove floor jack. 27. Place floor jack under suspension crossmember and raise jack so that weight of assembly is supported on jack pad, (Fig. 4V). 28. Attach lifting device to support engine, remove engine mount through bolts and remove engine assembly from crossmember. FRAME-TO-UPPER CONTROL ARM ATTACHING BOLTSFig. 4V—Stabilizing Power Train 29. Remove synchromesh transmission and clutch (if so equipped). a. Remove clutch housing rear cover bolts. b. Remove bolts attaching the clutch housing to engine block, then remove transmission clutch housing as a unit. NOTE: Support the transmission as the last mounting bolt is removed and as it is being pulled away from the engine, to prevent damage to clutch disc. c. Remove starter and clutch housing rear cover. d. Loosen clutch mounting bolts a turn at a time (to prevent distortion of clutch cover) until the spring pressure is released. Remove all bolts, clutch disc and pressure plate assembly. 30. Remove automatic transmission (if so equipped). a. Lower engine secured by the hoist, and support engine on blocks. b. Remove starter and converter housing underpan. c. Remove flywheel-to-converter attaching bolts. d. Support transmission on blocks. e. Disconnect throttle linkage and vacuum modulator on Powerglide. Disconnect detent cable on Turbo Hydra-Matic. f. Remove transmission-to-engine mounting bolts. g. With the hoist attached, remove blocks from the engine only and slowly guide the engine away from the transmission. Installation 1. If engine was mounted in an engine stand, attach lifting adapter to engine, then, using lifting device, remove engine from stand and perform the following: • Install manual transmission and clutch (if so equipped). a. Install the clutch assembly on flywheel as outlined in Section 7. b. Install clutch housing rear cover and starter. c. Install the transmission and clutch housing as outlined in Section 7. d. Install clutch housing rear cover bolts and torque to specifications. • Install automatic transmission (if so equipped). a. Position engine adjacent to the transmission and align converter with the flywheel. b. Bolt transmission to engine then raise engine and transmission assembly and install flywheel to converter bolts. c. Install converter housing under pan and starter. d. Connect throttle valve linkage and vacuum modulator. Connect detent cable on Turbo Hydra-Matic. 2. Raise engine and align mounts on engine with brackets on crossmember-install engine mount through bolts. 3. Place wood block between oil pan and crossmember to stabilize power train. 4. Remove floor jack from under crossmember and position jack pad under transmission assembly, using wood block at jack pad to protect transmisssion. 5. Remove the engine lifting device and roll power train and suspension assembly under vehicle so that crossmember is aligned with frame. 6. Slowly lower the vehicle, checking often to assure that engine components do not interfere with vehicle as it is being lowered, until suspension-to-frame attaching bolt holes are aligned. 7. Install and securely tighten suspension-to-frame attaching bolts. 8. Install transmission support crossmember and remove floor jack from beneath the transmission. Remove block of wood from between oil pan and crossmember. 9. Raise vehicle on the hoist and install the remaining suspension-to-frame attaching bolts-torque bolts to specifications. Torque transmission to-crossmember and crossmember to frame bolts to specifications. 10. Install propeller shaft as outlined in Section 4. 11. Connect rear brake pipe at right frame rail connector;connect front brake pipe at equalizer tee and connect rear brake pipe at left frame rail connector. 12. Install cross shaft and connect clutch linkage and/or transmission linkage as outlined in Section 7. 13. Connect the following items: • Fuel line (from tank) at fuel pump. • Engine ground strap(s). • Steering idler arm at frame. • Steering pitman arm at steering gear—torque nut to specifications. • Stabilizer shaft at frame brackets. • Battery positive cable at starter. • Shock absorbers at lower control arm. • Speedometer cable at transmission. • TCS switch at transmission-install TCS wire to clip at transmission/clutch housing. • Exhaust crossover at muffler and at manifolds. 14. Lower vehicle on hoist. 15. Connect power brake vacuum hose at tube-to-hose junction. 16. Connect Evaporation Control System lines at rocker arm cover and carburetor. 17. Connect TCS system electrical leads at valve and at temperature switch—position harness in rocker arm cover clips. 18. Install Delcotron and support assembly. 19. Connect accelerator linkage at dash mounted bell crank. 20. Install carburetor air cleaner and oil filler tube—connect oil pressure gauge line if so equipped. 21. Connect engine wiring harness at dash panel junction block. 22. Install radiator and fan shroud, connect radiator and heater hoses, install automatic transmission cooler lines and fill cooling system. 23. Install engine cover. 24. Connect battery ground cable at engine block and at battery. 25. Bleed front and rear brakes as outlined in Section 5. 26. Start engine, check and add engine coolant as required and check engine for proper operation. INTAKE MANIFOLD Removal 1. Drain radiator and remove air cleaner. 2. Disconnect: • Battery cables at battery. • Upper radiator hose and heater hose at manifold. • Accelerator linkage at pedal lever. • Fuel line at carburetor. • Crankcase ventilation lines (as required). • Spark advance hose at distributor. 3. Remove distributor cap and mark rotor position with chalk, then remove distributor. 4. Remove (as required) oil filler bracket, air cleaner bracket, coil, accelerator return spring and bracket, and accelerator bellcrank. 5. Remove manifold attaching bolts, then remove manifold and carburetor as an assembly. Discard gaskets and seals. 6. If manifold is to be replaced, transfer: • Carburetor and carburetor mounting studs. • Oil pressure sending unit. • Water outlet and thermostat (use new gasket). Installation 1. Clean gasket and seal surfaces on manifold, block, and cylinder heads. 2. Install manifold seals on block and gaskets on cylinder heads (Fig. 7V). Use sealer at water passages and where seals butt to gaskets. 3. Install manifold and torque bolts to specifications in the sequence outlined on the torque sequence chart.4. Install (if removed) oil filler bracket, air cleaner bracket, coil, accelerator return spring and bracket and accelerator bellcrank. 5. Install distributor, positioning rotor at chalk mark, then install distributor cap. 6. Connect: • Spark advance hose at distributor. • Crankcase ventilation lines (as required). • Fuel line at carburetor. • Accelerator linkage at pedal lever. • Battery cables at battery. 7. Adjust accelerator linkage as outlined. 8. Install air cleaner. 9. Fill with coolant, start engine, adjust ignition timing and carburetor idle speed and check for leaks. EXHAUST MANIFOLD Removal NOTE: If removing right manifold, remove engine cover to obtain access to carburetor heater. 1. On right manifold, remove carburetor heater. 2. Raise vehicle on hoist. 3. Disconnect exhaust pipe from manifold and hang exhaust pipe from frame with wire. 4. Remove end bolts then remove center bolts and remove manifold. Installation 1. Clean gasket surfaces on cylinder head and rocker arm cover with degreaser then, using a new gasket, install rocker arm cover and torque to specifications. 2. Install carburetor heater (if removed). 3. Connect temperature wire and plug wires at clips on left rocker arm cover. 4. Connect crankcase ventilation hoses (as required). 5. Install air cleaner, start engine and check for leaks. VALVE MECHANISM Removal 1. Remove rocker arm covers as outlined. 2. Remove rocker arm nuts, rocker arm balls, rocker arms and push rods. NOTE: Place rocker arms, rocker arm balls and push rods in a rack so they may be reinstalled in the same locations. Installation and Adjustment NOTE: Whenever new rocker arms and/or rocker arm balls are being installed, coat bearing surfaces of rocker arms and rocker arm balls with "Molykote" or its equivalent. ROCKER ARM COVER Removal 1. Remove air cleaner. 2. Disconnect crankcase ventilation hoses at rocker arm covers. 3. Disconnect temperature wire and plug wires from left rocker arm clips. 4. Remove carburetor heater from right exhaust manifold. 5. Remove rocker arm cover. Installation 1. Clean mating surfaces on manifold and head, then install manifold in position and install bolts (finger-tight). 2. Torque two center bolts to specifications, then torque four end bolts to specifications. 3. Connect exhaust pipe to manifold. Use new gasket or packing. 4. Lower vehicle on hoist. 5. On right manifold, install carburetor heater and engine cover. 6. Start engine and check for leaks. 1. Install push rods. Be sure push rods seat in lifter socket. 2. Install rocker arms, rocker arm balls and rocker arm nuts. Tighten rocker arm nuts until all lash is eliminated. 3. Adjust valves when lifter is on base circle of camshaft lobe as follows: CAUTION: Do Not pry rocker arm cover loose. Gaskets adhering to cylinder head and rocker arm cover may be sheared by bumping end of rocker arm cover rearward with palm of hand or a rubber mallet. tuba. Crank engine until mark on torsional damper lines up with center or “O” mark on the timing tab fastened to the crankcase front cover and the engine is in the number 1 firing position. This may be determined by placing fingers on the number 1 valve as the mark on the damper comes near the “O” mark on the crankcase front cover. If the valves are not moving, the engine is in the number 1 firing position. If the valves move as the mark comes up to the timing tab, the engine is in number 6 firing position and should be turned over one more time to reach the number 1 position. b. With the engine in the number 1 firing position as determined above, the following valves may be adjusted. Exhaust — 1,3,4, 8 Intake — 1,2, 5, 7 c. Back out adjusting nut until lash is felt at the push rod then turn in adjusting nut until all lash is removed. This can be determined by checking push rod side play while turning adjusting nut (Fig. 8V). When play has been removed, turn adjusting nut in one full additional turn (to center lifter plunger). d. Crank the engine one revolution until the pointer “O” mark and torsional damper mark are again in alignment. This is number 6 firing position. With the engine in this position the following valves may be adjusted. Exhaust — 2, 5,6,7 Intake — 3,4,6,8 4. Install rocker arm covers as outlined. 5. Adjust carburetor idle speed. VALVE LIFTERS Hydraulic valve lifters very seldom require attention. The lifters are extremely simple in design, readjustments are not necessary, and servicing of the lifters requires only that care and cleanliness be exercised in the handling of parts. Locating Noisy Lifters Locate a noisy valve lifter by using a piece of garden hose approximately four feet in length. Place one end of the hose near the end of each intake and exhaust valve with the other end of the hose to the ear. In this manner, the sound is localized making it easy to determine which lifter is at fault. Another method is to place a finger on the face of the valve spring retainer. If the lifter is not functioning properly, a distinct shock will be felt when the valve returns to its seat. The general types of valve lifter noise are as follows: 1. Hard Rapping Noise—Usually caused by the plunger becoming tight in the bore of the lifter body to such an extent that the return spring can no longer push the plunger back up to working position. Probable causes are: a. Excessive varnish or carbon deposit causing abnormal stickiness. b. Galling or “pick-up” between plunger and bore of lifter body, usually caused by an abrasive piece of dirt or metal wedging between plunger and lifter body. 2. Moderate Rapping Noise—Probable causes are: a. Excessively high leakdown rate. b. Leaky check valve seat. c. Improper adjustment. 3. General Noise Throughout the Valve Train—This will, in most cases, be caused by either insufficient oil supply or improper adjustment. 4. Intermittent Clicking-Probable causes are: a. A microscopic piece of dirt momentarily caught between ball seat and check valve ball. b. In rare cases, the ball itself may be out-of-round or have a flat spot. c. Improper adjustment. In most cases where noise exists in one or more lifters all lifter units should be removed, disassembled, cleaned in a solvent, reassembled, and reinstalled in the engine. If dirt, corrosion, carbon, etc. is shown to exist in one unit, it more likely exists in all the units, thus it would only be a matter of time before all lifters caused trouble. Removal 1. Remove intake manifold as outlined. 2. Remove valve mechanism as outlined. 3. Remove valve lifters. NOTE: Place valve lifters in a rack so they may be reinstalled in the same location. Installation 1. Install valve lifters. 2. Install intake manifold as outlined. 3. Install and adjust valve mechanism as outlined. VALVE STEM OIL SEAL and/or VALVE SPRING Replacement 1. Remove rocker arm cover as outlined. 2. Remove spark plug, rocker arm and push rod on the cylinder(s) to be serviced. 3. Install air line adapter Tool J-23590 to spark plug port and apply compressed air to the spark plug hole to hold the valves in place. 4. Using Tool J-5892 to compress the valve spring, remove the valve locks, valve cap and valve spring and damper (Fig. 9V). 5. Remove the valve stem oil seal. 6. Assemble as follows: a. Set the valve spring and damper, valve shield and valve cap in place. The closely coiled end of the spring is installed against the cylinder head. Compress the spring with Tool J-5892 and install oil seal in the lower groove of the stem, making sure the seal is flat and not twisted. NOTE: A light coat of oil on the seal will help prevent twisting. b. Install the valve locks and release the compressor tool making sure the locks seat properly in the upper groove of the valve stem.NOTE: Grease may be used to hold the locks in place while releasing the compressor tool. CYLINDER HEAD ASSEMBLY NOTE: Remove left or right seats as required to obtain necessary working area when removing heads. Removal 1. Remove intake manifold as outlined. 2. Remove exhaust manifold as outlined. 3. Remove valve mechanism as outlined. 4. Drain cylinder block of coolant. 5. Remove cylinder head bolts, cylinder head and gasket. Place cylinder head on two blocks of wood to prevent damage. Installation CAUTION: The gaskets surfaces on both the head and the block must be clean of any foreign matter and free of nicks or heavy scratches. Cylinder bolt threads in the block and threads on the cylinder head bolts must be clean. (Dirt will affect bolt torque). 1. On engines using a STEEL gasket, coat both sides of a new gasket with a good sealer. Spread the sealer thin and even. One method of applying the sealer that will assure the proper coat is with the use of a paint roller. Too much sealer may hold the gasket away from the head or block. CAUTION: Use no sealer on engines using a composition STEEL ASBESTOS gasket. 2. Place the gasket in position over the dowel pins with the bead up. 3. Carefully guide the cylinder head into place over the dowel pins and gasket. 4. Coat threads of cylinder head bolts with sealing compound and install bolts finger tight. 5. Tighten each cylinder head bolt a little at a time in the sequence shown in the torque sequence chart until the specified torque is reached. 6. Install exhaust manifolds as outlined. 7. Install intake manifold as outlined. 8. Install and adjust valve mechanism as outlined. Oil Pan Removal 1. Raise vehicle on a hoist and drain engine oil. 2. On vehicles equipped with automatic transmission remove converter housing under pan. 3. Remove starter inboard bolt, swing starter aside. 4. Remove oil pan and discard gaskets and seals. Installation 1. Thoroughly clean all gasket and seal surfaces on oil pan, cylinder block, crankcase front cover and rear main bearing cap. 2. Install new oil pan side gaskets on cylinder block using gasket sealer as a retainer. Install new oil pan rear seal in rear main bearing cap groove, with ends butting side gaskets. Install new oil pan front seal in groove in crankcase front cover with ends butting side gaskets (Fig. 10V). 3. Install oil pan and torque bolts to specifications. 4. Install starter attaching bolts. Torque bolts to specifications. 5. Install converter housing under pan. 6. Lower vehicle on hoist, fill engine with oil, start engine and check for leaks. Oil Pump Removal 1. Remove oil pan as outlined. 2. Remove pump to rear main bearing cap bolt and remove pump and extension shaft. Installation 1. Assemble pump and extension shaft to rear main bearing cap, aligning slot on top end of extension shaft with drive tang on lower end of distributor drive shaft. 2. Install pump to rear bearing cap bolt and torque to specifications. NOTE: Installed position of oil pump screen is with bottom edge parallel to oil pan rails.Fig. 10V—Oil Pan Gasket and Seal Location 3. Install oil pan as outlined. Oil Seal (Rear Main) Replacement NOTE: Always replace the upper and lower seal as a unit. Install seal with lip facing front of engine. The rear main bearing oil seal can be replaced (both halves) without removal of the crankshaft. Extreme care should be exercised when installing this seal to protect the sealing bead located in the channel on the outside diameter of the seal. An installation tool (Fig. 11V), can be used to protect the seal bead when positioning upper half of seal between crankshaft and block as follows. 1. With the oil pan and oil pump removed, remove the rear main bearing cap. 2. Remove oil seal from the bearing cap by prying from the bottom with a small screwdriver (Fig. 12V). 3. To remove the upper half of the seal, use a small hammer to tap a brass pin punch on one end of seal until it protrudes far enough to be removed with pliers (Fig. 13 V). 4. Clean all sealant and foreign material from cylinder case bearing cap and crankshaft, using a nonabrasive cleaner. 5. Inspect components for nicks, scratches, burrs and machining defects at all sealing surfaces, case assembly and crankshaft. 6. Coat seal lips and seal bead with light engine oil — keep oil off seal mating ends. 7. Position tip of tool between crankshaft and seal seat in cylinder case. 8. Position seal between crankshaft and tip of tool so that seal bead contacts tip of tool. NOTE: Make sure that oil-seal lip is positioned toward front of engine. Fig. 12V—Removing Oil Seal (Lower Half)Fig. 14V—Sealing Bearing Cap NOTE: If additional operations (such as camshaft removal) are not being performed, the radiator removal will not be necessary. 3. Remove accessory drive pulley then, if so equipped, remove damper retaining bolt. 4. Install Tool J-23526 on damper then, turning puller screw, remove damper (Fig. 15V). Installation APPLY SEALANT TO SHADED AREAS ONLY 9. Roll seal around crankshaft using tool as a “shoehorn” to protect seal bead from sharp corner of seal seat surface in cylinder case. CAUTION: Installation tool must remain in position until seal is properly positioned with both ends flush with block. 10. Remove tool, being careful not to withdraw seal. 11. Install seal half in bearing cap, again using tool as a “shoehorn,” feeding seal into cap using light pressure with thumb and finger. 12. Install bearing cap to case with sealant applied to the cap-to-case interface being careful to keep sealant off the seal split line (Fig. 14V). 13. Install the rear main bearing cap (with new seal) and torque to specifications. Torsional Damper Removal 1. Remove fan belt, fan and pulley. 2. Remove the radiator and shroud assembly as outlined in Section 13. Fig. 15V—Removing Torsional Damper 1. Coat front cover seal contact area (on damper) with engine oil. 2. Install damper on crankshaft as follows: a. Install 7/16” threaded end of Tool J-23523 into crankshaft. CAUTION: Install tool in crankshaft so that at least 1/2" of thread engagement is obtained. b. Position damper on crankshaft, aligning damper with key on crankshaft. c. Install plate, thrust bearing and nut to complete tool installation. d. Pull damper into position as shown in Figure 16V. e. Remove tool from crankshaft then install damper retaining bolt and torque to specifications. 3. Install accessory drive pulley. 4. Install fan and pulley to water pump hub and tighten securely. CAUTION: The inertia weight section of the torsional damper is assembled to the hub with a rubber type material. The installation procedures (with proper tool) must be followed or movement of the inertia weight section on the hub will destroy the tuning of the torsional damper.5. Install fan belt and adjust to specifications using strand tension gauge. 6. Fill cooling system, start engine and check for leaks. Crankcase Front Cover Removal 1. Remove oil pan as outlined. 2. Remove torsional damper as outlined. 3. Remove water pump as outlined in Section 6K. 4. Remove crankcase front cover attaching screws and remove front cover and gasket, then discard gasket. Installation 1. Make certain that cover mounting face and cylinder block front end face are clean and flat. 2. Coat the oil seal with engine oil and using a new cover gasket, coated with gasket sealer install cover and gasket over dowel pins and cylinder block. 3. Install cover screws and torque to specifications. 4. Install water pump as outlined in Section 6K. 5. Install torsional damper as outlined. 6. Install Oil pan as outlined. Fig. 18V-lnstalling Oil Seal (Cover Installed) Oil Seal (Front Cover) Replacement With Cover Removed 1. With cover removed, pry old seal out of cover from the front with a large screwdriver. 2. Install new seal so that open end of the seal is toward the inside of cover and drive it into position with Tool J-23042 (Fig. 17V). Without Cover Removed 1. With torsional damper removed, pry seal out of cover from the front with a large screwdriver, being careful not to damage the surface on the crankshaft. 2. Install new seal so that open end of seal is toward the inside of cover and drive it into position with Tool J-23042 (Fig. 18V). CAUTION: Support cover at seal area. (Tool J-971 may be used as support.) J-23042 —,—Fig. 20V—Removing Crankshaft Sprocket Timing Chain and/or Sprockets Replacement 1. Remove torsional damper and crankcase front cover as outlined. 2. Crank engine until marks on camshaft and crankshaft sprockets are in alignment (Fig. 19V). 3. Remove camshaft sprocket to camshaft bolts. 4. Remove camshaft sprocket and timing chain together. Sprocket is a light press fit on camshaft. If sprocket does not come off easily, a light blow on the lower edge of the sprocket (with a plastic mallet) should dislodge the sprocket. 5. If crankshaft sprocket is to be replaced, remove sprocket using Tool J-5825 (Fig. 20V). Install new sprocket using a bolt and nut from J-23523 (Fig. 21V). Fig. 22V—Installing Timing Chain 6. Install timing chain on camshaft sprocket. Hold the sprocket vertical with the chain hanging down and align marks on camshaft and crankshaft sprockets (Fig. 22V). NOTE: Do not attempt to drive sprocket on camshaft as welsh plug at rear of engine can be dislodged. 7. Draw camshaft sprocket onto camshaft, using the three mounting bolts. Torque to specifications. 8. Lubricate timing chain with engine oil. 9. Install crankcase front cover and torsional damper as outlined. Camshaft Measuring Lobe Lift NOTE: Procedure is similar to that used for checking valve timing. If improper valve operation is indicated, measure the lift of each push rod in consecutive order and record the readings. 1. Remove the valve mechanism as outlined. 2. Position indicator with ball socket adapter (Tool J-8520) on push rod (Fig. 23V). NOTE: Make sure push rod is in the lifter socket. 3. Rotate the crankshaft slowly in the direction of rotation7. If camshaft readings for all lobes are within specifications, remove dial indicator assembly. 8. Install and adjust valve mechanism as outlined. Removal 1. Remove valve lifters as outlined. 2. Remove crankcase front cover as outlined. 3. Remove grille as outlined in Section 1 3. 4. Remove fuel pump push rod as outlined in Section 6M. 5. Complete camshaft removal as follows: NOTE: Sprocket is a light fit on camshaft. If sprocket does not come off easily a light blow on the lower edge of the sprocket (with a plastic mallet) should dislodge the sprocket. 6. Install two 5/16” x 18x4” bolts in camshaft bolt holes then remove camshaft (Fig. 24V). CAUTION: All camshaft journals are the same diameter and care must be used in removing camshaft to avoid damage to bearings. Fig. 23V—Measuring Camshaft Lobe Lift until the lifter is on the heel of the cam lobe. At this point, the push rod will be in its lowest position. 4. Set dial indicator on zero, then rotate the crankshaft slowly, or attach an auxiliary starter switch and “bump” the engine over, until the push rod is in fully raised position. CAUTION: The distributor primary lead must be disconnected from the negative post on the coil. 5. Compare the total lift recorded from the dial indicator with specifications. 6. Continue to rotate the engine until the indicator reads zero. This will be a check on the accuracy of the original indicator reading. Installation NOTE: Whenever a new camshaft is installed coat camshaft lobes with "Molykote" or its equivalent. 1. Lubricate camshaft journals with engine oil and install camshaft. 2. Install timing chain on camshaft sprocket. Hold the sprocket vertical with the chain hanging down, and align marks on camshaft and crankshaft sprockets. (Refer to Fig. 19V and 22V). 3. Align dowel in camshaft with dowel in hole in camshaft sprocket then install sprocket on camshaft. 4. Draw the camshaft sprocket onto camshaft using the mounting bolts. Torque to specifications. 5. Lubricate timing chain with engine oil. 6. Install fuel pump push rod as outlined in Section 6M. 7. Install grille as outlined in Section 13. 8. Install crankcase front cover as outlined. 9. Install valve lifters as outlined. Flywheel Removal With transmission and/or clutch housing and clutch removed from engine, remove the flywheel. Installation 1. Clean the mating surfaces of flywheel and crankshaft to make certain there are no burrs. 2. Install flywheel on crankshaft and position to align dowel hole of crankshaft flange and flywheel (Fig. 25V). NOTE: On Automatic Transmission equipped engines, the flywheel must be installed with the flange collar to transmission side (Fig. 25V).CONVERTER BOLT AREA DEPRESSED RING GEAR SYNCHROMESH TRANS. AUTOMATIC Fig. 25V—Flywheel Installation (Typical) Coat thread end of bolts with sealer then install bolts and torque to specifications. Engine Mounts Engine mounts are the non-adjustable type and seldom require service. Broken or deteriorated mounts should be replaced immediately, because of the added strain placed on other mounts and drive line components. Checking Engine Mounts Front Mount Raise the engine to remove weight from the mounts and to place a slight tension in the rubber. Observe both mounts while raising engine. If an engine mount exhibits: a. Hard rubber surface covered with heat check cracks; b. Rubber separated from a metal plate of the mount; or c. Rubber split through center. Replace the mount. If there is relative movement between a metal plate of the mount and its attaching points, lower the engine on the mounts and tighten the screws or nuts attaching the mount to the engine, frame, or bracket. Rear Mount Raise the car on a hoist. Push up and pull down on the transmission tailshaft while observing the transmission mount. If the rubber separates from the metal plate of the mount or if the tailshaft moves up but not down (mount bottomed out) replace the mount. If there is relative movement between a metal plate of the mount and its attaching point, tighten the screws or nuts attaching the mount to the transmission or crossmember. Front Mount Replacement (Fig. 26V) 1. Raise vehicle on hoist. 2. On manual transmission equipped vehicles. a. Disconnect clutch rod at outboard lever on clutch cross shaft. b. Remove the two bolts securing clutch cross shaft bracket to frame side rail, and position clutch linkage away from engine mount. 3. Remove mount-to-bracket through-bolt. Fig. 26V—Engine Front Mount 4. Raise engine sufficiently to clear mount. Remove bolts securing mount to frame bracket. 5. Install new mount to frame bracket, and torque bolts to specifications. 6. Lower engine to align mount with engine bracket. Install through bolt and torque to specifications. 7. On manual transmission equipped vehicles. a. Position clutch cross shaft between frame side rail and ball stud on engine bracket. Install and torque frame bolts. b. Connect clutch rod at outboard lever on clutch cross shaft. 8. Lower vehicle on hoist and check operation of clutch.Rear Mount Replacement (Fig. 27V) 1. Raise vehicle on hoist and support transmission so as not to interfere with support crossmember removal. 2. Remove bolts securing rear mount to support crossmember. 3. Remove support crossmember retaining bolts from underbody cross rail and withdraw support from vehicle. 4. Remove bolts securing mount to transmission extension. 5. Install new rear mount and torque bolts to specifications. 6. "osition support crossmember to cross rail, install bolts then loosely install crossmember-to-mount retaining bolts. 7. Remove support from rear of transmission, torque remaining bolts to specifications and lower vehicle on hoist. CYLINDER HEAD TORQUE SEQUENCE V8 INTAKE MANIFOLD TORQUE SEQUENCE FRONT Fig. 1T—Torque SequenceSPECIAL TOOLS *— 23 #= 1. J-4536 Engine Lift Kit 16. J-5715 (.003") Rocker Arm Stud 2. J-1264 (0-200 Ft. Lb.) Torque Wrench Reamer J-8058 (0-50 Ft. Lb.) 17. J-6036 (.013”) J-5853 (0-100 in lb.) J-6880 Rocker Arm Stud Installer 3. J-8087 Indicator Set (Cylinder Bore) 18. J-5802 Rocker Arm Stud Remover 4. J-8001 Indicator Set (Universal) 19. J-9534 Distributor Lower Bushing 5. J-23600 Belt Tension Gauge Remover 6. J-8037 Piston Ring Compressor 20. J-9535 Distributor Lower Bushing 7. J-8020 (3-9/16") Piston Ring Expander Installer J-8021 (3-7/8”) 21. J-22144 Oil Pick-up Screen Installer J-8032 (4") 22 J-8369 Oil Pick-up Screen Installer J-22249 (3-15/16") 23 J-6098 Cam Bearing Tool J-22147 (4-3/32") 24. J-0971 Camshaft Gear Support J-22250 (4-1/4") 25. J-23523 Torsional Damper Puller 8. J-6994 Piston Pin Assembly Tool 26 J-22197 Torsional Damper Installer 9. J-9510 Piston Pin Assembly Tool 27. J-1619 Crankshaft Sprocket Puller 10. J-5239 (3/8”) Connecting Rod Guide Set 28. J-5825 Crankshaft Sprocket Puller J-6305 (11/32") 29. J-8105 Crankshaft Gear Puller 11. J-8062 Valve Spring Compressor 30. J-5590 Crankshaft Sprocket or Gear 12. J-8101 Valve Guide Cleaner Installer 13. J-5830 (11/32") Valve Guide Reamer 31. J-23042 Crankcase Cover Centering Set Gauge J-7049 (3/8") 32 J-22102 Crankcase Cover and Seal 14. J-8089 Carbon Removing Brush Installer 15. J-5860 Cylinder Head Bolt Wrench ENGINE COOLING INDEX Page Page General Description....................... .....6K-1 Heater Core .................... .......6K-3 Maintenance and Adjustments............... .....6K-2 Fan Belt Adjustment .................... .......6K-3 Coolant Level ......................... .....6K-2 Radiator Cap .......................... .......6K-3 Coolant System Checks.................. .....6K-2 Thermostat............................ .......6K-3 Periodic Maintenance.................... .....6K-2 Replacement........................ .......6K-3 Cleaning ........................... .....6K-2 Thermostatic Fan Clutch Replacement ...... .......6K-4 Reverse Flushing..................... .....6K-3 Water Pump........................... .......6K-5 Radiator......................... .....6K-3 Removal ........................... .......6K-5 Cylinder Block and Cylinder Head ...... .....6K-3 Installation ......................... .......6K-5 GENERAL DESCRIPTION All Chevrolet trucks have pressure type engine cooling systems with thermostatic control of coolant circulation. The cooling system is sealed by a pressure type radiator filler cap. The pressure type radiator filler cap (Fig. 1) is designed to operate the cooling system at higher than atmospheric Fig. 1 —Radiator Pressure Cap pressure. The higher pressure raises the boiling point of the coolant which increases the efficiency of the radiator. The radiator filler cap contains a pressure relief valve and a vacuum relief valve. The pressure relief valve is held against its seat by a spring which when compressed, allows excessive pressure to be relieved out the radiator overflow. The vacuum valve is also held against its seat by a spring which when compressed, opens the valve relieving the vacuum created when the system cools off. The cooling system’s water pump is of the centrifugal vane impeller type (Figs. 2 and 3). The bearings are permanently lubricated during manufacture and are sealed to prevent the loss of lubricant or the entry of dirt and water. The pump requires no care other than to make certain the air vent at the top of the housing and the drain holes in the bottom do not become plugged with dirt or grease. Fig. 2-Water Pump-Typical L6 Fig. 3-Water Pump-Typical V8 VMWater pump components are not serviced separately; therefore, in the event of water pump failure, it will be necessary to replace the complete assembly — removal and installation procedures are covered in this section. For radiator service refer to Section 13 of this manual. Radiator fan shroud replacement is covered in Section 11 of this manual. MAINTENANCE AND ADJUSTMENTS Coolant Level The radiator coolant level should only be checked when the engine is cool, particularly on trucks equipped with air conditioning. If the radiator cap is removed from a hot cooling system, serious personal injury may result. The cooling system fluid level in downflow radiator should be maintained one inch below the bottom of the filler neck of the radiator when cooling system is cold. Coolant level in crossflow radiators should be maintained three inches below the bottom of the filler neck when the system is cold to allow for expansion when the coolant is heated. (Note coolant level arrow on rear of radiator outlet tank.) It is very important that the correct fluid level be maintained. Overfilling will result in loss of coolant as the coolant expands while underfilling (low level) will result in reduced cooling performance. All truck cooling systems are pressurized with a 15 lb. pressure cap which permits safe engine operation at cooling temperatures of up to 256° F. with a 33% glycol solution. When the radiator cap is removed or loosened, the system pressure drops to atmospheric, and the heat which had caused water temperature to be higher than 212°F, will be dissipated by conversion of water to steam. Inasmuch as the steam may form in the engine water passages, it will blow coolant out of the radiator upper hose and top tank, necessitating coolant replacement. Engine operating temperatures higher than the normal boiling point of water are in no way objectionable so long as the coolant level is satisfactory when the engine is cool. Upon repeated coolant loss, the pressure radiator cap and seat should be checked for sealing ability. Also, the cooling system should be checked for loose hose connections, defective hoses, gasket leaks, etc. 3. To check for exhaust leaks into the cooling system, drain the system until the water level stands just above the top of the cylinder head, then disconnect the upper radiator hose and remove the thermostat and fan belt. Start the engine and quickly accelerate several times. At the same time note any appreciable water rise or the appearance of bubbles which are indicative of exhaust gases leaking into the cooling system. Periodic Maintenance It is the owner’s responsibility to keep the freeze protection at a level commensurate with the area in which the vehicle will be operated. Regardless of climate, system protection should be maintained at least to 0°F., to provide adequate corrosion protection. When adding solution due to loss of coolant for any reason or in areas where temperatures lower than -20°F. may occur, a sufficient amount of an ethylene glycol base coolant that meets GM Specification 1899-M should be used. Every two years the cooling system should be serviced by flushing with plain water, then completely refilled with a fresh solution of water and high-quality inhibited (permanent-type) glycol base coolant meeting GM Specification 1899-M, and providing freezing protection at least to 0°F. At this time, also add GM Cooling System Inhibitor and Sealer or equivalent. In addition, Cooling System Inhibitor and Sealer should be added every fall thereafter. GM Cooling System Inhibitor retards the formation of rust or scale and is compatible with aluminum components. NOTE: Alcohol or methanol base coolants or plain water are not recommended for your cooling system at any time. Coolant System Checks 1. Test for restriction in the radiator, by warming the engine up and then turning the engine off and feeling the radiator. The radiator should be hot at the top (along the left side on crossflow radiators) and warm at the bottom (along the right side on crossflow radiators), with an even temperature rise from bottom to top (right to left on crossflow radiators). Cold spots in the radiator indicate clogged sections. 2. Water pump operation may be checked by running the engine while squeezing the upper radiator hose. A pressure surge should be felt. Check for a plugged vent-hole in pump. NOTE: A defective head gasket may allow exhaust gases to leak into the cooling system. This is particularly damaging to the cooling system as the gases combine with the water to form acids which are harmful to both the radiator and engine. Two common causes of corrosion are: (1) air suction — Air may be drawn into the system due to low liquid level in the radiator, leaky water pump or loose hose connections; (2) exhaust gas leakage - Exhaust gas may be blown into the cooling system past the cylinder head gasket or through cracks in the cylinder head and block. Cleaning A good cleaning solution should be used to loosen the rust and scale before reverse flushing the cooling system. There are a number of cleaning solutions available and the manufacturer’s instructions with the particular cleaner being used should always be followed. An excellent preparation to use for this purpose is GM Cooling System Cleaner or its equivalent. The following directions for cleaning the system applies only when this type cleaner is used. 1. Drain, the cooling system including the cylinder block, and then close drain plugs. 2. Remove thermostat and replace thermostat housing.3. Add the liquid portion (No. 1) of the cooling system cleaner. 4. Fill the cooling system with water to a level of about 3 inches below the top of the overflow pipe. 5. Cover the radiator and run the engine at moderate speed until engine coolant temperature reaches 180 degrees. 6. Remove cover from radiator and continue to run the engine for 20 minutes. Avoid boiling. 7. While the engine is still running, add the powder portion (No. 2) of the cooling system cleaner and continue to run the engine for 10 minutes. WARNING: Be careful not to scald your hands. 8. At the end of this time, stop the engine, wait a few minutes and then open the drain. Also, remove lower hose connection. NOTE: Dirt and bugs may be cleaned out of the radiator air passages by blowing out with air pressure from the back of the core. Do not bend radiator fins. Reverse Flushing Reverse flushing should always be accomplished after the system is thoroughly cleaned as outlined above. Flushing is accomplished through the system in a direction opposite to the normal flow. This action causes the water to get behind the corrosion deposits and force them out. Radiator 1. Remove the radiator upper and lower hoses and replace the radiator cap. 2. Attach a lead-away hose at the top of the radiator. 3. Attach a new piece of hose to the radiator outlet connection and insert the flushing gun in this hose. 4. Connect the water hose of the flushing gun to a water outlet and the air hose to an air line. 5. Turn on the water and when the radiator is full, turn on the air in short blasts, allowing the radiator to fill between blasts of air. CAUTION: Apply air gradually as a clogged radiator will stand only a limited pressure. 6. Continue this flushing until the water from the lead-away hose runs clear. Cylinder Block and Cylinder Head 1. With the thermostat removed, attach a lead-away hose to the water pump inlet and a length of new hose to the water outlet connection at the top of the engine. NOTE: Disconnect the heater hose and cap connections at engine when reverse flushing engine. 2. Insert the flushing gun in the new hose. 3. Turn on the water and when the engine water jacket is full, turn on the air in short blasts. Fig. 4—Pressure Checking Radiator Cap 4. Continue this flushing until the water from the lead-away hose runs clear. Heater Core 1. Remove water outlet hose from heater core pipe. 2. Remove inlet hose from engine connection. 3. Insert flushing gun and flush heater core. Care must be taken when applying air pressure to prevent damage to the core. Fan Belt Adjustment 1. Loosen bolts at Delcotron mounting. 2. Pull Delcotron away from engine until desired tension reading is obtained with a strand tension gauge. Refer to “Engine Tune Up Specifications.” 3. Tighten all Delcotron bolts securely. Radiator Cap The radiator cap should be washed with clean water and pressure checked at regular tune-up intervals. Inspect rubber seal on cap for tears or cracks. Install radiator cap on tester (Fig. 4). If the pressure cap will not hold pressure or does not release at the proper pressure, replace the cap. Thermostat The thermostat consists of a restriction valve actuated by a thermostatic element. This is mounted in the housing at the cylinder head water outlet above the water pump. Thermostats are designed to open and close at predetermined temperatures and if not operating properly should be removed and tested as follows: Replacement 1. Remove radiator to water outlet hose. 2. Remove thermostat housing bolts and remove water outlet and gasket from thermostat housing (Fig. 5). 3. Inspect thermostat valve to make sure it is in good condition. 4. Place thermostat in a 33% glycol solution 25° above the temperature stamped on the thermostat valve.5. Submerge the valve completely and agitate the water thoroughly. Under this condition the valve should open fully. 6. Remove the thermostat and place in a 33% glycol solution 10° below temperature indicated on the valve. 7. With valve completely submerged and water agitated thoroughly, the valve should close completely. 8. If thermostat checks satisfactorily, re-install, using a new housing gasket. 9. Refill cooling system. Thermostatic Fan Clutch Replacement All mating surfaces (water pump hub and fan clutch hub) should be inspected for smooth mating surfaces and reworked as necessary to eliminate burrs or other imperfections. Except for the fan belt, components should be assembled to the engine (See Water Pump Removal and Installation Procedures). Radial run-out should be checked as follows: 1. Secure the fan blade to prevent rotation. (See Figure 6). 2. Mount a dial indicator (.001 graduations) to the engine and place the indicator pointer on the fan blade spider. Preferably on the longest band or space on the spider. (See Figure 7). 3. Rotate the water pump pulley in one direction and note the total amount of indicator needle movement. This represents the total radial run-out. Mark the point on the pulley at which the highest reading is obtained. 4. If the total indicator reading is less than .006 inch, the assembly is within specification. Install fan belt and adjust. If the total indicator run-out exceeds .006 inch, proceed to Step 5. 5. Divide the total indicator reading in half and obtain this thickness from shim stock (1/2 x 3/4) and rework (Figure 8). Place this shim pack between the water pump Fig. 6—Securing Fan Blade pulley and fan clutch hub at the bolt closest to the point marked on the pulley in Step 3. If the mark on the pulley is between two bolts so that it is difficult to determine which bolt is closest, place two shim packs; one under each bolt on either side of the mark. (See Figure 9). Bolt Torque Sequence a) When one shim pack is used, first, torque the bolt over which the shim pack has been placed; second, the bolt opposite the first; and finally, the other two. Recommend torque is 25 lbs. ft. b) When two shim packs are used, each bolt must be torqued partially; then to full torque alternating between opposite bolts; then the other two bolts in the same manner. Recommend torque 25 lbs. ft. NOTE: Excessive run-out may result if the above sequence and recommended torque is not used.6. Recheck total indicator run-out to verify that run-out is within .006 inch. Install fan belt and adjust. Water Pump Removal 1. Drain radiator and break loose the fan pulley bolts. 2. Disconnect heater hose, lower radiator hose and by pass hose (as required) at water pump. 3. Loosen Delcotron and remove fan belt then remove fan bolts, fan and pulley. CAUTION: If a fan blade is bent or damaged in any way, no attempt should be made to repair and reuse the damaged part. A bent or damaged fan assembly should always be replaced with a new fan assembly. It is essential that fan assemblies remain in proper balance and proper balance cannot be assured once a fan assembly has been bent or damaged. A fan assembly that is not in proper balance could fail and fly apart during subsequent use creating an extremely dangerous condition. NOTE: Thermostatic fan clutches must be kept in an "in-car" position. When removed from the car TOTAL RUN OUT + 2 = SHIM THICKNESS TO OBTAIN ZERO (-0-) RUN-OUT Fig. 9—Determining Shim Placement the assembly should be supported so that the clutch disc remains in a vertical plane to prevent silicone fluid leakage. 4. Remove pump to cylinder block bolts and remove pump and old gasket from engine. NOTE: On in line engines, pull the pump straight out of the block first, to avoid damage to impeller. Installation 1. Install pump assembly on cylinder block then, using a new sealer coated pump-to-block gasket tighten bolts securely. 2. Install pump pulley and fan on pump hub and tighten bolts securely. NOTE: A guide stud (5/16"-24 x 1" bolt with the head removed) installed in one hole of the fan will aid in aligning hub, pulley and fan. Remove stud after starting the remaining three bolts. 3. Connect hoses and fill cooling system. 4. Install fan belt and adjust as previously outlined. 5. Start engine and check for leaks.ENGINE FUEL NOTE: Also refer to the "Emission Control Systems" Booklet for required' maintenance and warranty information. CONTENTS OF THIS SECTION Carburetors ................ Accelerators and Choke Controls Air Cleaners................ Page Page 6M-1 Fuel Pumps .................................6M-15 6M-9 Special Tools ................................6M-17 6M-11 CARBURETORS INDEX Page General Description 6M-1 Service Procedures 6M-1 Preliminary Checks 6M-2 Fast Idle Adjustment................... 6M-2 Vacuum Break Adjustment ...........: . 6M-3 Carburetor Removal ..................... 6M-7 Carburetor Test Before Installation 6M-7 Page Carburetor Installation 6M-8 Fuel Filter Maintenance....................................6M-8 Automatic Choke Coil Assemblies 6M-9 Choke Coil Replacement 6M-9 Additional External Settings and Adjustments 6M-9 Idle Solenoid ......................................................6M-9 Throttle Linkage Adjustment 6M-9 GENERAL DESCRIPTION Various carburetors, designed to meet the particular requirements of engine, transmission and vehicle are used; therefore, carburetors that look alike are not always interchangeable. (Refer to carburetor part number and/or specifications.) This Section covers removal, installation and adjustment (on engine) of carburetors. Also covered in this section are maintenance procedures for throttle linkages and fuel filters. For carburetor overhaul procedures and additional adjustments (bench), refer to Section 6M of the 1972 Passenger Car and Truck Chassis Overhaul Manual under the carburetor being serviced. Specifications for carburetors are located in the back of this manual. MAINTENANCE AND SERVICE PROCEDURES Choke—Choke mechanism should be checked for free operation. A binding condition may have developed from petroleum gum formation on the choke shaft or from damage. Choke shafts can usually be cleaned without disassembly by using United Delco X-66 Carburetor and Combustion Chamber Conditioner or equivalent. Bolts, Carburetor to Manifold-Carburetor attaching bolts and/or nuts should be carefully adjusted to correct torque to compensate for compression of gasket at first 4 months or 6,000 miles of vehicle operation only. Filter-Carburetor and/or Fuel Pump—A clogged carburetor or fuel pump filter may restrict fuel flow or bypass foreign material into carburetor depending upon type used. Replace clogged filters. Also replace filters each 12,000 miles or 12 months, whichever occurs first. CEC Valve, or Vacuum Advance Solenoid, and Hoses—The vacuum portion of either of these valves should be checked, with the transmission in neutral, by using a vacuum gauge attached to the valve (or solenoid) distributor connector. With the engine at fast idle, the vacuum gauge should read zero. The electrical portion of the solenoid or valve may be checked by applying 12 volts across its electrical terminals, which should result in a vacuum reading on the gauge (except on Vega where the results are exactly opposite—a vacuum reading should be obtained only while the solenoid or valve is not energized). An inoperative or leaking solenoid or valve should be replaced. All hoses and wires should be carefully inspected for correct routing and to make certain that they are intact. Idle Stop Solenoid—The idle stop solenoid should be checked to assure that it permits the throttle plate to close further when the ignition switch is turned “off.” An inoperative solenoid should be replaced.PRELIMINARY CHECKS (ALL CARBURETORS) 2. 3. Thoroughly warm-up engine. If the engine is cold, allow to run for at least 15 minutes. Inspect torque of carburetor to intake manifold bolts and intake manifold to cylinder head bolts to exclude the possibility of air leaks. Inspect manifold heat control valve (if used) for freedom of action and correct spring tension. 4. Check and adjust choke as required, using procedures specified in this section. 5. Adjust idle speed and idle mixture as outlined in Section 6, “Engine Tune-up” and at the end of the carburetor group in this section under, “Additional External Settings and Adjustments.” EXTERNAL ADJUSTMENTS (ALL CARBURETORS) ROCHESTER AAV, 2GV AND 4M ADJUSTMENTS FAST IDLE ADJUSTMENTS (FIGS. 1C, 2C AND 3C) ROCHESTER MV AND 4MV NOTE: The fast idle adjustment must be set with transmission in "Neutral.” 1. Position fast idle lever on high step of fast idle cam. (Second step on 4MV) 2. Be sure choke is properly adjusted and in wide open position — engine warm. 3. Set fast idle to specified rpm as follows: a. Adjust fast idle screw on Rochester 4MV (Fig. 2C). b. Bend fast idle lever as required on Rochester MV to specified speed (Fig. 1C). Manual Choke 1. Use same procedure as above except in Step 1 rotate the fast idle cam clockwise to its highest position. CHOKE ROD (FAST IDLE CAM) ADJUSTMENTS MV (Fig. 4C) Automatic choke models with steps on fast idle cam. With fast idle adjustment made: 2. 3. Place fast idle cam follower on second step of the fast idle cam and hold firmly against the rise to the high step. Rotate ihoke valve toward direction of closed choke by applying force to choke coil lever. Bend choke rod at point shown to give specified opening between the lower edge of choke valve (at center of valve) and inside air horn wall. YYt.Fig. 4C—Choke Rod (Fast Idle Cam) Adjustment (MV) Manual choke models with smooth contour cam. Use the same procedure as above except for Step 1. As there are no steps on manual choke cam, the index line on side of cam should be lined up with contact point of the fast idle cam follower tang. 2GV (Fig. 5C) Turn stop screw in until it just contacts bottom step of fast idle cam. Then turn screw in one full turn. Place idle screw on second step of fast idle cam against shoulder of high step. With screw in this position, hold choke valve toward closed position with a rubber band and check clearance between upper edge of choke valve and air horn wall. Adjust to specified dimension by bending tang on choke lever and collar assembly. 4MV (Fig. 6C) With the cam follower on second step of fast idle cam and against the high step, rotate the choke valve toward the closed (7) FAST IDLE SCREW ^ ON SECOND STEP OF CAM AGAINST HIGH STEP position by turning the external choke lever counterclockwise. Dimension between the lower edge of choke valve, at choke lever end, should be as specified. Bend choke rod to adjust (Fig. 6C). CHOKE VACUUM BREAK ADJUSTMENTS (MV) (Fig. 7C) The following procedure for adjusting the vacuum break diaphragm unit is used to insure correct initial choke valve opening after engine starting: 1. Remove air cleaner assembly from vehicle. On vehicles with “Therm AC” air cleaner, plug the sensor’s vacuum take-off port. 2. Using an outside vacuum source, apply vacuum to the vacuum break diaphragm until the plunger is fully seated. 3. With the vacuum break diaphragm in the fully seated position, push the choke valve toward the closed position.VACUUM BREAK ADJUSTMENT Fig. 8C—Vacuum Break Adjustment (MV) 4. With the choke valve held in this position, place specified gauge between the lower edge of the choke valve and air horn wall. 5. Dimension should be as specified; if not, bend the vacuum break rod at point shown, to adjust. 2GV (Fig. 8C) Refer to Figure 8C and follow steps under MV. 4MV (Fig. 9C) 1. Seat choke vacuum break diaphragm using outside vacuum source. 2. Open throttle valve slightly so cam follower will clear steps of fast idle cam. Then rotate vacuum break lever counterclockwise (towards direction of closed choke). A rubber band may be used to hold in place. The end of vacuum break rod shoul also be in outer end of slot in vacuum break diaphragm plunger. 3. Measure the distance between lower edge of choke valve and inside air horn wall. 4. To adjust to specified dimension, bend vacuum break link at point shown. CHOKE UNLOADER ADJUSTMENT MV (Fig. 10C) 1. Hold choke valve in closed position by applying a light force to the choke operating lever. 2. Rotate throttle lever to wide open throttle valve position. 3. Bend unloader tang on throttle lever to obtain specified dimension between lower edge of choke plate (at center) and air horn wall. 2GV (Fig. 11C) With the throttle valves held wide open and the choke valve held toward the closed position with a rubber band, bend the unloader tang on the throttle lever to obtain specified clearance between the upper edge of the choke valve and air horn wall. CHOKE COIL ROD ADJUSTMENT MV (Fig. 12C) 1. Disconnect thermostatic coil rod from upper choke lever and hold choke valve completely closed. 2. With thermostatic coil rod disconnected, push downward on rod to end of travel. 3. With rod held in this position, the top of rod should be even with bottom of hole in choke lever. 4. To adjust, bend rod at point shown.UNLOADER ADJUSTMENT Fig. 11C—Choke Unloader (2GV) 2GV (Fig. 13C) 1. Hold choke valve completely open. 2. With the thermostatic coil rod disconnected from upper lever, push downward on rod to end of travel. 3. With the rod in the fully downward position, bottom of rod should be even with the bottom of slotted hole in lever as shown. Fig. 13C—Choke Coil Rod Adjustment (2GV) 4. To adjust, bend lever at point shown with screwdriver end. 4MV (Fig. 14C) 1. Hold choke valve completely closed by rotating choke coil lever counterclockwise. 2. With the thermostatic coil rod disconnected, with cover removed, push downward on coil rod so that the rod contacts bracket surface. 3. The coil rod must fit in choke lever notch, as shown. 4. Bend choke coil rod at point shown to adjust. 5. Install choke coil spring cover. 6. Insert coil rod into choke coil lever slot and install retaining clip. 7. Make sure that the choke valve operates freely from the full open to full closed position.ENGINE FUEL 6M-6 C.E.C. VALVE ADJUSTMENT (L-6 ENGINES) (EXCEPT 30 SERIES, CARGO VANS) IMPORTANT: Do not set CEC Valve adjustment to idle R.P.M. The CEC (Solenoid) Valve has a specified R.P.M. See Section 6M, Specifications, under "Other Adjustments.” CAUTION: If the CEC solenoid on the carburetor is used to set the engine idle or is adjusted out of limits specified in the Service Manual, decrease in engine braking may result. This adjustment is to be made only after, (1) replacement of the solenoid, (2) major overhaul of the carburetor is performed, or (3) after the throttle body is removed and replaced. The C.E.C. valve setting is made only after completing instruction on tune-up sticker. With engine running and transmission in “Neutral” for manual, and in “Drive” for automatics, with air conditioning off, distributor vacuum hose removed and plugged, and fuel tank hose from vapor canister disconnected, perform the following: Fig. 17C—Accelerator Pump Rod Adjustment (2GV) 1. Manually extend the C.E.C. valve plunger to contact throttle lever. 2. Adjust plunger length to obtain C.E.C. valve R.P.M. (see “Other Adjustments” in Specifications at end of this manual — Column No. 3). 3. Reconnect fuel tank vapor hoses to the canister and distributor vacuum hoses. AIR VALVE DASHPOT ADJUSTMENT 4MV (Fig. 16C) 1. Completely seat choke vacuum break diaphragm using an outside vacuum source. 2. With choke diaphragm seated and air valve fully closed, measure the distance between the end of slot in vacuum break plunger lever and air valve. ACCELERATOR PUMP ROD ADJUSTMENT 2GV (Fig. 17C) Back out idle stop screw and completely close throttle valves in bore. Place gauge on top of air horn ring. Bend the pump rod at lower angle to obtain. BEND PUMP ROD TO ADJUST THROTTLE VALVES FULLY CLOSED PUMP ROD ADJUSTMENT MEASURE FROM TOP OF AIR HORN RING TO TOP OF PUMP RODALL CARBURETORS REMOVAL (Figs. K1, K2 and K3) Flooding, stumble on acceleration and other performance complaints are, in many instances, caused by the presence of dirt, water, gum and varnish caused by stale fuel from prolonged vehicle storage, or other foreign matter in the carburetor. To aid in diagnosing the cause of the complaint, the carburetor should be carefully removed from the engine without draining the fuel from the bowl. The contents of the fuel bowl may then be examined for contamination as the carburetor is disassembled. Check filter. 1. Remove air cleaner and gasket. 2. Disconnect fuel and vacuum lines from carburetor. 3. Disconnect choke coil rod. 4. Disconnect accelerator linkage. 5. If equipped with automatic transmission, disconnect TV linkage. 6. Remove C.E.C. valve (if so equipped) vacuum hose and electrical connector. 7. Remove idle stop electrical wiring from solenoid (if so equipped). 8. Remove carburetor attaching nut and/or bolts, gasket or insulator and remove carburetor. TEST BEFORE INSTALLATION It is good shop practice to fill the carburetor bowl before installing the carburetor. This reduces the strain on the starting motor and battery and reduces the possibility of backfiring while attempting to start the engine. A fuel pump clamped to the bench, a small supply of fuel and the necessary fittings enable the carburetor to be filled and the operation of the float and intake needle and seat to be checked. Operate the throttle lever several times and check the discharge from the pump jets before installing the carburetor. INSULATOR STUDS INOTEI Initial torque 24-28 lbs. in. on each nut__ then retighten each to 120-168 lbs. in. CHOKE SHIELDINSTALLATION 1. Be certain throttle body and intake manifold sealing surface are clean. 2. Install new carburetor to manifold flange gasket or insulator (as required). 3. Install carburetor over manifold studs or holes. 4. Start vacuum and fuel lines at carburetor. 5. Install attaching nuts and/or bolts and tighten securely. 6. Tighten fuel lines and install vacuum lines securely. 7. Connect and adjust accelerator and TV linkage. 8. Connect C.E.C. Valve (L-6) electrical wiring and attach vacuum lines. 9. Connect idle stop wiring connector to solenoid. 10. Connect choke coil rod. 11. Install air cleaner, adjust curb idle and low idle speeds per decal. (See specifications for C.E.C. valve adjustment, idle stop solenoid adjustment and idle mixture adjustment; also, “Additional external settings and adjustments.”) FUEL FILTER MAINTENANCE I 1. Disconnect fuel line connection at inlet fuel filter nut. 2. Remove inlet fuel filter nut from carburetor with a box wrench or socket. 3. Remove filter element and spring (Fig. K4). 4. Check paper element by blowing on fuel inlet end. If filter does not allow air to pass freely, replace element. No attempt should be made to clean filters. NOTE: Element should be replaced if plugged or if flooding occurs. A plugged filter will result in a loss of engine power or rough (pulsating) engine feel, especially at high engine speeds. 5. Install element spring, and install element in carburetor. Bronze filters must have small section of cone facing out. 6. Install new gasket on inlet fitting nut and install nut in carburetor and tighten securely. 7. Install fuel line and tighten connector.AUTOMATIC CHOKE COIL ASSEMBLIES Refer to “External Adjustments” for choke coil adjustment procedures and typical installed views. Choke Coil Replacement In-Line Engines (Fig. K1) NOTE: The following procedures refer to all IN-LINE engines. 1. Remove air cleaner and disconnect choke rod upper clip. 2. Remove bolts attaching choke coil to manifold, and remove choke coil and choke rod as an assembly. 3. Disconnect choke rod from choke coil. 4. Connect choke rod to new choke coil and install assembly on manifold. 5. Install bolts and tighten securely. 6. Adjust and connect choke rod as outlined. 7. Start and warm-up the engine then check operation of choke and install air cleaner. V8 Engines (Fig. K2) 1. Remove air cleaner and disconnect choke rod upper clip. 2. Remove choke coil as follows: WITH ROCHESTER 4MV AND 2GV CARBURETORS Remove the choke coil shield by prying with a screwdriver in the cut-out provided then lift shield carefully over rod. Remove choke rod, bracket screw and choke coil assembly. 3. Install a new choke coil assembly being sure the locator is in the hole of the intake manifold and install mounting screw. 4. Complete installation as follows: WITH ROCHESTER 4MV AND 2GV CARBURETORS Install the choke rod and adjust as necessary (without choke coil shield installed.) Disconnect choke rod upper end and lower choke coil shield over choke rod and install over choke coil. 5. Be sure choke valve moves freely from full open to full closed position. 6. Start and warm up the engine and check operation of the choke. 7. Install the air cleaner. ON-THE-VEHICLE ADJUSTMENTS Final curb idle and fast idle settings should be made on the vehicle using a tachometer. All idle speeds in 1972 are to be set with the air conditioning in the OFF position unless otherwise indicated. Idle speed and mixture settings must be made with the air cleaner installed. Warm engine to normal operating temperature, choke valve and thermostatic air cleaner valve must be in full open positions. Idle settings must follow procedure shown on decal. ADDITIONAL EXTERNAL SETTINGS AND ADJUSTMENTS ALL VEHICLES - EXCEPT VEGA After carburetor overhaul, throttle body part replacement, mixture needle part replacement, or limiter cap and needle removal, the below procedures must be followed: 1. Follow instructions on vehicle tune-up sticker (refer to Section 6, Tune Up) before proceeding. 2. Turn mixture screw in until it lightly contacts seat, then back screws out four (4) full turns. 3. Adjust idle stop solenoid to obtain, “initial curb idle speed,” see “Other Adjustments” Specifications chart in back of this section — Column No. 1. 4. Then adjust mixture screws equally in (Leaner) or to !4 turn rich from lean roll, when specified, to obtain “final curb idle speed,” see “Other Adjustments” Specifications chart in back of this Section — Column No. 2. 5. Install service “Mixture Needle Limiter Caps” on mixture screws. 6. Reconnect distributor vacuum hose and fuel tank vapor hose. IDLE STOP SOLENOID (CURB IDLE-LOW IDLE) ADJUSTMENT With engine at normal operating temperature, air cleaner installed, choke open, and air conditioning off, if so equipped. CAUTION: Set parking brakes and block the drive wheels. 1. Disconnect fuel tank hose vapor canister. 2. Disconnect distributor vacuum hose at the distributor. Plug hose lead-to carburetor. 3. With engine running. ONE BARREL CARBURETORS CAUTION: During adjustment, do not turn the solenoid more than one complete turn without first disconnecting the electrical wiring. a. Turn the solenoid clockwise to increase RPM, counterclockwise to decrease RPM. Refer to Specifications, Section 6M, under “Other Adjustments”, column No. 2, for curb idle speed (Idle Stop Solenoid-Energized). b. Set low idle speed (with solenoid de-energized) to 450 RPM by using an alien head wrench (located at the end of this solenoid). Turn to adjust. TWO BARREL AND FOUR BARREL CARBURETORS a. Disconnect electrical connection at the end of the idle stop solenoid. b. Adjust carburetors low idle (Adjustment screw on low step of cam) to Specifications in Column No. 2, Note (3).IWSTEl Position" flange of support on Inlet Manifold PIN before installing bolt. LEVER ASSEMBLY CABLE ASSEMBLY /■ LEVER ASSEMBLY. c "v I |K>i> ___^ 1 1 1 \FWD^ PIN WASHER COTTER PIN ROD ASSEMBLY V VIEW A J DASH PANEL FWD CLIP CABLE I VIEW B ASSEMBLY Fig. K5—Accelerator Pedal Installation Fig. K6—Accelerator Linkage—L6 Engine c. Set dwell and timing and recheck low idle speed. d. Reconnect electrical connector to the solenoid. Open the throttle momentarily and adjust the solenoid plunger screw to the specified curb idle speed (RPM). See Specifications, Section 6M, under “Other Adjustments”. ACCELERATOR AND CHOKE CONTROLS THROTTLE LINKAGE (Fig. K5thru K7) The throttle control system is of the cable type. There are no throttle linkage adjustments, a reference between the bottom of the accelerator pedal roller and floor pan should be used only as a check for bent bracket assemblies. Check torque references in Figures K5 thru K7. Check for correct opening and closing positions by operating accelerator pedal in car. Cable routing attachment, carburetor positioning for proper assembly should be noted in 1972 as depicted by some of the following illustrations. NOTE: If any binding is present, check for correct routing of cable or pedal interference with carpets. THROTTLE ROD KICKDOWN LINKAGE ADJUSTMENT 1. Disconnect throttle rod swivel at throttle lever on carburetor or at dash lever. NOTE.: Cable controls do not require adjustment. 2. On automatic transmission equipped vehicles disconnect TV rod at throttle lever. 3. 4. 5. Hold carburetor throttle in wide open position, push throttle rod rearward (to position accelerator pedal at the floor mat) and adjust swivel to just enter hole in throttle lever. Connect swivel to throttle lever and install accelerator return spring. On vehicles equipped with automatic transmission hold throttle lever in full open position, pull TV rod to full detent position and adjust TV rod to just enter hole on throttle lever, and connect TV rod at throttle lever. ^FWD^ rWU LEVER\ x bracket ASSEMBLY \ BKAU- baring loaded plunger seats against the vacuum inlet and opens the distributor advance unit to the clean air vent. Time Relay The time relay is a solid state timing device designed to delay circuit continuity for a minimum of 20 seconds, after the transmission has been shifted into high forward gear. Delaying circuit completion delays vacuum advance. Any opening of the transmission switch contacts (downshift) of more than one or two seconds, causes the relay to recycle and deny vacuum advance for another 20 seconds. A transmission switch interruption of less than one second will disable the time relay and prevent vacuum advance until the next upshift cycle. The time relay is located in the passenger compartment on the horizontal portion of the instrument panel reinforcement and to the right of the steering column (Fig. 6T-18). Temperature Switch The TCS system temperature switch is located in the right cylinder head between the number 6 and number 8 exhaust port (Fig. 6T-19). The switch is a two-position single terminal control which provides a path to ground, for the cold override feature, when engine coolant temperatures are below 82 degrees. The “off’ or “neutral” position is maintained at engine coolant temperatures above 82 degrees. Fig. 6T-19—Small V8 Temperature Switch (Right Head) Transmission Switch On manual shift synchromesh transmissions, both 3- and 4-speed, the switch is located on the outside of the transmission case in an area adjacent to the 2-3 or 3-4 shifter shaft, as applicable (Fig. 6T-7). The mechanically operated switch is spring loaded to provide continuity between the switch terminal and the switch housing. The molded top and the plunger are non-conductors and therefore insulate the cup contact and switch terminal when the plunger is depressed. When installed in the transmission, the plunger contacts the shifter shaft, which causes the plunger to retract in low forward gears. When the transmission is shifted into high forward gear, the plunger drops into a recess or flat on the shifter shaft, causing the plunger to extend and allow the cup contact to rest on the switch housing (Fig. 6T-8). A circuit is completed to ground, from the transmission through the switch housing to the cup contact and through the spring to the electrical terminal. The Turbo Hydra-matic 350 transmissions use a pressure sensitive switch, which is activated by transmission fluid pressure. The switch for Turbo Hydra-matic is installed externally in the 2-3 direct clutch pressure tap (Fig. 6T-20). At rest, in or out of the installed position, the switch is in a normally open position. Construction of the switch is such that a spring loaded diaphragm that contains a metallic contact, is held away from a cup contact, which in turn, is in contact with the switch housing (Fig. 6T-10). Transmission fluid pressure, against the insulated plug, forces the diaphragm upward so that the diaphragm contact closes the circuit through the spring to the electrical terminal. TCS RELAYCHEVY VAN SHOP MANUAL TROUBLE SHOOTING GUIDE SMALL V-8 ENGINE COMPLAINT Engine Stalls at Idle Excessive Creep at Idle High Idle Speed Dieseling T° erformance; however, it may continue to provide additional Fig. 7b—Testing Specific Gravity (Typical) service if it has performed satisfactorily in the past. An “emergency boost charge,” consisting of a high charging rate for a short period of time, may be applied as a temporary expedient in order to crank an engine. However, this procedure usually supplies insufficient battery reserve to crank a second and third time. Therefore, the “emergency boost charge” must be followed by a subsequent charging period of sufficient duration to restore the battery to a satisfactory state of charge. Refer to the charging guide in this section. When out of the vehicle, the sealed side terminal battery will require adapters for the terminals to provide a place for attachment of the charging leads. Adapters are available through local parts service. When the sealed terminal battery is in the vehicle, the studs provided in the wiring harness are suitable for attachment of the charger’s leads. CAUTION: Exercise care when attaching charger leads to side terminal studs to avoid contact with vehicle metal components which would result in damage to the battery.CHARGING GUIDE Recommended Rate* and Time for Fully Discharged Condition Watt Rating 5 Amperes 10 Amperes 20 Amperes 30 Amperes 40 Amperes 50 Amperes Below 2450 10 Hours 5 Hours 2-1/2 Hours 2 Hours 2450-2950 12 Hours 6 Hours 3 Hours 2 Hours 1-1/2 Hours Above 2950 15 Hours 7-1/2 Hours 3-1/4 Hours 2 Hours 1-3/4 Hours 1-1/2 Hours ^Initial rate for constant voltage taper rate charger. To avoid damage, charging rate must be reduced or temporarily halted if: 1. Electrolyte temperature exceeds 125°F. 2. Violent gassing or spewing of electrolyte occurs. Battery is fully charged when over a two hour period at a low TEST PROCEDURES Testing procedures are used to determine whether the Battery is (1) good and usable, (2) requires recharging or (3) should be replaced. Analysis of Battery conditions can be accomplished by performing a Visual Inspection, Specific Gravity Test, Instrument Test and Load Test. Refer to Test Procedures Chart at the end of this section. VISUAL INSPECTION The first step in testing the Battery should be a visual inspection, which very often will save time and expense in determining Battery condition. • Check the outside of the Battery for a broken or cracked case or a broken or cracked cover. If any damage is evident, the Battery should be replaced. • Note the electrolyte level. Levels that are too low or too high may cause poor performance, as covered in the section entitled “Periodic Servicing.” • Check for loose cable connections, and for evidence of corrosion as covered in section entitled “Periodic Servicing.” Correct as required before proceeding with tests. SPECIFIC GRAVITY READINGS A hydrometer can be used to measure the specific gravity of the electrolyte in each cell (Fig. 7b). The hydrometer measures the percentage of sulphuric acid in the battery electrolyte in terms of specific gravity. As a battery drops from a charged to a discharged condition, the acid leaves the solution and enters the plates, causing a decrease in specific gravity of electrolyte. An indication of the concentration of the electrolyte is obtained with a hydrometer. When using a hydrometer, observe the following points: 1. Hydrometer must be clean, inside and out, to insure an accurate reading. 2. Hydrometer readings must never be taken immediately after water has been added. The water must be thoroughly mixed with the electrolyte by charging for at least 15 minutes at a rate high enough to cause vigorous gassing. charging rate in amperes all cells are gassing freely and no change in specific gravity occurs. For the most satisfactory charging, the lower charging rates in amperes are recommended. Full charge specific gravity is 1.260-1.280 corrected for temperature with electrolyte level at split ring. 3. If hydrometer has built-in thermometer, draw liquid into it several times to insure correct temperature before taking reading. 4. Hold hydrometer vertically and draw in just enough liquid from battery cell so that float is free floating. Hold hydrometer at eye level so that float is vertical and free of outer tube, then take reading at surface of liquid. Disregard the curvature where the liquid rises against float stem due to surface tension. 5. Avoid dropping battery fluid on car or clothing as it is extremely corrosive. Any fluid that drops should be washed off immediately with baking soda solution. The specific gravity of the electrolyte varies not only with the percentage of acid in the liquid but also with temperature. As temperature increases, the electrolyte expands so that the specific gravity is reduced. As temperature drops, the electrolyte contracts so that the specific gravity increases. Unless these variations in specific gravity are taken into account, the specific gravity obtained by the hydrometer may not give a true indication of the concentration of acid in the electrolyte. A fully charged Battery will have a specific gravity reading of approximately 1.27-0 at an electrolyte temperature of 80°F. If the electrolyte temperature is above or below 80°F., additions or subtractions must be made in order to obtain a hydrometer reading corrected to the 80°F. standard. For every 10° above 80°F., add four specific gravity points (.004) to the hydrometer reading. Example: A hydrometer reading of 1.260 at 110°F. would be 1.272 corrected to 80°F"., indicating a fully charged Battery. For every 10° below 80°F., subtract four points (.002) from the reading. Example: A hydrometer reading of 1.272 at 0°F. would be 1.240 corrected to 80°F., indicating a partially charged Battery. SPECIFIC GRAVITY CELL COMPARISON TEST This test may be used when an instrument tester is not available. To perform this test measure the specific gravity of each cell, regardless of state of charge, and interpret the results as follows: • If specific gravity readings show a difference between the highest and lowest cell of .050 (50 points) or more, the Battery is defective and should be replaced.INSTRUMENT TEST A number of suppliers have approved testing equipment available. These testers have a programmed test procedure consisting of a series, of timed discharge and charge events, requiring approximately 2 to 3 minutes, that will determine the condition of the Battery with a high degree of accuracy. When using these testers, the procedure recommended by the tester manufacturer should be followed. Batteries should not be charged prior to testing or doing so may alter the test results. If a tester is not available for testing, the “Specific Gravity Cell Comparison Test” may be used or an alternate method, but with a sacrifice in testing accuracy. NOTE: New energizers which have become completely discharged over a relatively long period of time, such as during vehicle storage, should be tested by the hydrometer method. Energizers discharged to this degree cannot be accurately tested using equipment requiring load capability comparison tests. LOAD TEST In addition to the instrument test and specific gravity hydrometer test, the following load test may also be performed to check the condition of the battery. NOTE: Equipment to perform the test may be procured for local suppliers of testing equipment. To begin, charge the battery, if necessary, until all cells are at least 1.200 specific gravity. 1. If unable to obtain specific gravity 1.200 @ 80° F. in all cells, replace battery. 2. If able to obtain a specific gravity of 1.200 or more @ 80°F. in all cells, remove the vent caps and connect a 300 amp. load for 15 seconds. a. If smoke occurs in one or more cells, replace the battery. b. If smoke does not occur proceed to step 3. 3. Place a thermometer in one cell and apply a specified load from chart No. 1. Read the voltage at 15 seconds with load connected, then remove load and read electrolyte temperature. Compare temperature and voltage readings with chart No. 2. a. If reading is less than voltage on chart No. 2, replace battery. b. If reading is same as or greater than voltage on chart No. 2, fully charge, clean and return battery to service. CHART NO. 1 ENERGIZER LOAD TEST VALUES MODELNO. AMP LOAD Y86A 130 Y86 130 Y87 130 Y88 160 Y89 160 R88 180 R89 180 R88ST 180 R88WT 230 R88W 230 R89W 230 CHART NO. 2 VOLTAGE AND TEMPERATURE CHART Electrolyte Temperature Minimum Voltages* Down to 80” 9.6 70° 9.6 60° 9.5 50° 9.4 40° 9.3 30° 9.1 20° 8.9 10° 8.7 0° 8.5 *Voltage must not drop below minimum listed at given temperature when battery is subjected to the proper load for 15 seconds and is 1.200 specific gravity @ 80° F. or more. FULL CHARGE HYDROMETER TEST This test should be used only on batteries which test good with testing equipment or “Specific Gravity Cell Comparison Test” but which subsequently fail in service. • Remove the Battery from the vehicle, and adjust the electrolyte level as necessary, by adding colorless, odorless, drinking water. • Fully charge the Battery at the Slow Charging rate as covered in the section entitled “Charging Procedures.” • Measure the specific gravity of the electrolyte in each cell and interpret as follows: Hydrometer Reading Less Than 1.230-Full charge hydrometer readings less than 1.230 corrected from temperature indicate the Battery is defective and should be replaced. Hydrometer Readings Above 1.310-Full charge hydrometer readings above 1.310 corrected for temperature indicate that the cells have been improperly filled (activation) or improperly serviced. Poor service and short Battery life will result. INSTALLING BATTERIES (Fig. 8b) Battery installation varies depending on the truck model and series. To install properly, it is important to observe the following precautions: • Connect grounded terminal of Battery last to avoid short circuits which may damage the electrical system. • Be sure there are not foreign objects in the carrier, so that the new Battery will rest properly in the bottom of the carrier. • Tighten the hold-down evenly until snug (60-80 in. lbs.) Do not draw down tight enough to distort or crack the case or cover. • Be sure the cables are in good condition and the terminal studs are clean and tight. Make sure the ground cable is clean and tight at engine block or frame. • Check polarity to be sure the Battery is not reversed with respect to the generating system.RADIATOR UPPER TIE BAR STARTER MOTOR SOLENOID (‘“V RADIATOR' BAFFLE R.H ENGINE ' WIRING HARNESS V-8 ENGINES TO JUNCTION BLOCK , STARTER MOTOR SOLENOID ENGINE MOUNTING BRACKET ATTACHING BOLT L-6 ENGINES V-8 ENGINE ROUTING ENGINE WIRING HARNESS STARTER MOTOR SOLENOIDENERGIZER/BATTERY TEST PROCEDURE To determine the ability of an Energizer or battery to function properly requires testing. The accuracy of the testing changes with temperature, specific gravity, age of the battery, etc. Therefore, an accurate test has more than one step: Step 1: Visual inspection Step 2: Specific gravity check (hydrometer) Step 3: Programmed instrument test Step 4: Load test* CAUTIONS: Wear safety glasses. Do not break live circuits at Energizer/battery terminals. When testing, be certain to remove gases at Energizer/ battery cover caused by charging.CHARGING SYSTEMS INDEX Page General Description 6Y-9 Maintenance and Adjustments 6Y-11 Static Checks ..........................6Y-11 System Condition Test 6Y-11 Voltage Regulator Adjustment 6Y-12 System Component Tests ..................6Y-13 Delcotron Output Test................6Y-13 Indicator Lamp Initial Field Excitation Circuit Tests........................6Y-13 Page Field Circuit Resistance Wire Tests 6Y-14 Field Relay Check and Adjustment 6Y-15 Closihg Voltage Adjustment 6Y-15 Other Harness Checks ..................6Y-15 Component Part Replacement 6Y-15 Pulley Replacement 6Y-15 Generator Replacement 6Y-16 Regulator Replacement 6Y-16 GENERAL DESCRIPTION The charging system includes the battery, generator, regulator, telltale light, and necessary wiring to connect these components. The Delcotron is offered as standard equipment, although there are various capacities available on all models. The Delcotron continuous output A.C. generator (Fig. lc) consists of two major parts, a stator and a rotor. The stator is composed of a large number of windings assembled on the inside of a laminated core that is attached to the generator frame. The rotor revolves within the stator on bearings located in each end frame. Two brushes are required to carry current through the two slip rings to the field coils wound concentric with the shaft of the rotor. Six rectifier diodes, contained in a rectifier bridge, are mounted in the slip ring end frame and are joined to the stator winding. The diodes change the Delcotron A.C. current to D.C. current. A double contact two unit type regulator is available on Chevy Van models. The function of the regulator in the charging system is to limit the generator voltage to a pre-set value by controlling the generator field current. The double contact unit uses the field relay to turn out the indicator lamp. The relay unit allows the lamp to light (as a bulb check) with the ignition key on and engine not running. When the engine is started and the generator begins to charge, the indicator light goes out indicating that the system is operating normally.Fig. 1c—10 DN Series 100B Type Delcotron The double-contact regulator assembly (Fig. 2c) consists of a double-contact voltage regulator unit and a field relay unit. This unit uses two sets of contact points on the voltage regulator unit to obtain desired field excitation under variable conditions. A wiring diagram of the regulator internal circuit is illustrated in Fig. 2c. Wiring harnesses are protected by fusible links. A fusible link is a length of special wire, normally four gauges smaller than the circuit it is protecting, used in circuits that are not normally fused such as the ignition circuit. The same size wire with a hypalon insulation must be used when replacing a fusible link. The links are located in the engine compartment wiring harnesses and each link will be identified with its gauge size. On most models there is a 16 gauge, red wire fusible link installed as an integral part of the positive battery cable or located between the solenoid battery terminal and the junction block. Refer to the wiring diagrams included in Section 12 of this manual for location of the fusible links. SWITCH RESISTOR L-. J iKimrATrto FIELD RELAY “LATCH” "F” TERMINAL NO. 2 TERMINAL NO. 3 TERMINAL NO. 4 TERMINAL VOLTAGE REGULATOR .E CONTACTMAINTENANCE AND ADJUSTMENTS At regular intervals, inspect the terminals for corrosion and loose connections, and the wiring for frayed insulation. Check mounting bolts for tightness. Check the drive belt for alignment, proper tension and wear. Because of the higher inertia and load capacity of the rotor used in A.C. generators, PROPER BELT TENSION is more critical than on D.C. generators. Since the Delcotron and its companion regulator are designed for use on negative polarity systems only, the following precautions must be observed. Failure to observe these precautions may result in serious damage to the charging system. 1. When installing a battery, always make absolutely sure the ground polarity of the battery, generator and regulator is the same. 2. When connecting a booster battery, make certain to connect the correct battery terminals together. 3. When connecting a charger to the battery, connect the correct charger leads to the battery terminals. 4. Never operate the generator on an uncontrolled open circuit. Make absolutely certain all connections in the circuit are secure. 5. Do not short across or ground any of the terminals on the generator or regulator. 6. Do not attempt to polarize the generator. 7. Do not disconnect lead at generator without first disconnecting battery ground cable. Trouble in the A.C. charging system will usually be indicated by one or more of the following conditions: 1. Faulty indicator lamp or ammeter operation. 2. An undercharged battery (usually evidenced by slow cranking speeds). 3. An overcharged battery (usually evidenced by excessive battery water usage). 4. Excessive generator noise or vibration. The following series of on-the-vehicle quick checks which are designed to assist the service technician in locating troubles within the various components of the engine electrical system. Additional checks, adjustments and overhaul procedures of these components are also described in “The Overhaul Manual” and should be referred to as necessary. STATIC CHECKS Before making any electrical checks, perform the following static checks: 1. Check for loose fan belt. 2. Check for defective battery. (Refer to Battery.) 3. Inspect all connections, including the slip-on connectors at the regulator and Delcotron. SYSTEM CONDITION TEST This test is used to indicate the overall condition of the charging system (both good and defective) and to isolate the malfunctioning unit if the system is defective. 1. With ignition off, perform the prescribed Static Checks outlined in this section. Then set hand brake and shift transmission into neutral. 2. Connect a voltmeter from junction block on horn relay to ground at regulator base. CAUTION: Be sure meter clip does not touch a resistor or terminal extension under regulator. 3. Connect a tachometer on engine. 4. Models equipped with Indicator Lamp: Turn ignition switch on “ON” position and check indicator lamp. If lamp fails to glow, perform appropriate tests and corrections (Indicator Lamp Circuit Tests) before continuing. Models equipped with Ammeter: Turn ignition switch to “ACC” with an accessory on and check ammeter. If ammeter fails to read discharge, check ammeter circuit before continuing. 5. Models equipped with Indicator Lamp: If lamp glows, start the engine and run it at 1500 rpm or above. Check indicator lamp. If lamp fails to go out, perform appropriate test and corrections (Indicator Lamp Circuit Test) before continuing. Models equipped with Ammeter: If ammeter reads discharge, start the engine and observe ammeter. If ammeter fails to move toward charge (from original position), perform appropriate test and corrections (Field Circuit Tests) before continuing. NOTE: At this point a field circuit has been established and any other problem will lie in generator or regulator. NOTE: Do not short field to ground to check if __ generator is charging since this will seriously damage the charging system. Fig. 3c—Adjust Voltage SettingFig. 4c—Voltage Setting Test Connection 6. Turn on high-beam headlights and heater blower motor to high speed, run engine at or above 1500 rpm (for a few minutes, if necessary) and read the voltage on meter. NOTE: Voltage will not greatly exceed 12-1/2 volts until the battery developes a surface charge, a few minutes generally, unless the battery is severely discharged or is hot. If reading is: a. 12-1/2 volts or more, turn off electrical loads, stop engine and proceed to Step 7. b. Less than 12-1/2 volts, perform “Delcotron Output Test—Ammeter Method.” (1) Delcotron tests bad—refer to “The Overhaul Manual” and repair Delcotron, then repeat Step 6. (2) Delcotron tests good—disconnect regulator connector, remove regulator cover and recon- nect the connector. Then repeat Step 6 and turn voltage adjusting screw (Fig. 3c) to raise setting to 12-1/2 volts. Turn off loads, stop engine and proceed to Step 7. If 12-1/2 volts cannot be obtained, install a new regulator and repeat Step 6. Adjusting Regulator Voltage 7. Connect a 1/4 ohm-25 watt fixed resistor (purchased commercially) into the charging circuit at the junction block as shown in Figure 4c. NOTE: Between both leads and the terminal. 8. Run engine at 1500 rpm or above for at least 15 minutes of warm-up, then cycle regulator voltage control (by disconnecting and re-connecting regulator connector) and read voltage. If voltage is 13.5 to 15.2, the regulator is okay. a. Disconnect four terminal connector and reinstall regulator cover. Then re-connect four terminal connector and adjust voltage to 14.2 and 14.6 (Refer to Step 6 and Fig. 3c). b. Disconnect four terminal connector and reinstall regulator cover, then reinstall connector. c. Continue running engine at 1500 rpm for 5-10 minutes to re-establish regulator internal temperature. d. Cycle regulator voltage by disconnecting and reconnecting regulator connector. Read voltage. A reading between 13.5 and 15.2 indicates a good regulator. CAUTION: Be sure four terminal regulator connector is disconnected when removing or installing cover. This is to prevent regulator damage by short circuits.SYSTEM COMPONENT TESTS Delcotron Output Test—Ammeter Method (Fig. 5c) 1. Disconnect the battery ground cable at the battery. 2. Disconnect the red wire at Delcotron battery terminal and connect an ammeter in series between the wire and terminal. 3. Connect a voltmeter from battery terminal to a good ground on the generator. 4. Disconnect the F-R terminal connector at the Delcotron. 5. Connect the jumper wire between Delcotron “F” and battery terminals. 6. Connect the battery ground cable at the battery. 7. Connect an adjustable carbon pile across the battery terminals. 8. Start the engine and slowly bring the speed to 1500 rpm and at the same time adjust the carbon pile load to hold the voltage at 14 volts. 9. Read the amperage and compare with a specifications chart. 10. Turn off ignition, disconnect battery ground cable, and remove all test equipment. 11. If the Delcotron meets the test specifications, the problem is not in the generator. 12. If the Delcotron fails to meet the test specifications, remove it and perform bench tests and make repairs needed. Indicator Lamp/Initial Field Excitation Circuit Tests On standard models the indicator lamp circuit provides initial field excitation (causing lamp to glow). The light is cancelled by closing the field relay which applies battery voltage to both side of bulb (bulb goes out). The indicator light should glow when ignition switch is “ON” and go out almost immediately when engine starts. Ammeter equipped vehicles use the same initial field excitation and control circuits as the indicator lamp except the lamp is omitted. The continuity tests on both type vehicles can be made as follows: If Lamp Fails to Glow or Ammeter Fails to Function the Possible Causes are: 1. Faulty bulb or bulb socket. 2. Faulty ammeter. 3. An open circuit in wiring, regulator, or field. 4. A shorted positive diode—(may also cause glow with ignition switch “OFF”).Test as Follows: 1. Disconnect connector from regulator and turn ignition switch to “ON”. Connect a test lamp from connector terminal “4” to ground (Fig. 6c, Step 1) and note lamp. a. Lamp fails to glow—check for faulty bulb, socket or open circuit between switch and regulator connector. Repair as needed. b. Light goes on-failure is in regulator, Delcotron, or wire between “F” terminals on regulator and Delcotron. Go to Step 2. 2. Disconnect lamp lead at ground end and connect between connector “F” and “4” terminals (Fig. 6c, Step 2), and note lamp: a. Test lamp glows—problem is in regulator. An open circuit in regulator or relay is stuck closed. See “Service Operations” for repair. b. Fails to glow—problem is in wire between “F” terminals on generator and regulator or in field windings. Go to Step 3. 3. Disconnect test lamp at connector “F” terminal and connect to “F” terminal on Delcotron (Fig. 6c, Step 3), and note lamp: a. Lamp glows—an open circuit in wire between “F” terminals—correct as needed. b. Fails to glow-Delcotron field has open circuit see “Service Operations” to repair. WIRING HARNESS CONNECTOR NOTE: This test lamp procedure may be used on lamp type circuits and on ammeter circuits. If Lamp Fails to Go Out, or if Ammeter Shows Discharge the Possible Causes are: 1. Loose drive belt-adjust as necessary. 2. Faulty field relay-(see relay test and adjustment). 3. Defective Delcotron—(see Delcotron output test). 4. At normal idle-parallel resistance wire open (See Resistance Test). Ammeter models the initial field excitation wire to “ACC” terminal is open. 5. Switch off—positive diode shorted (See Diode Test). Field Circuit Resistance Wire Cnecks The resistance wire is an integral part of the ignition harness. However, the resistance wire is not solderable; it must be spliced with a crimp-type connector. It is rated at 10 ohms, 6.25 watts minimum. The check for an open resistor or field excitation wire (connected to the ignition switch “ACC” terminal) is as follows: 1. Connect a test lamp from the wiring harness connector terminal “4” to ground as shown in Figure 6c (Step 1). 2. Turn the ignition switch to the “ON” position and note test bulb. a. Test lamp glows-resistance is O.K. b. Test lamp does not glow—the resistor is open circuited-note also that dash lamp does not glow during this test because series resistance of the 2 bulbs causes amperage to be too low.Field Relay Checks and Adjustment To check for a faulty relay proceed as follows: 1. Connect a voltmeter into the system at the regulator No. 2 terminal to ground (Fig. 7c). 2. Operate the engine at fast idle (1500 to 2000 rpm) and observe voltmeter reading. 3. If voltmeter shows zero voltage at regulator, check circuit between No. 2 terminal on regulator to “R” terminal on Delcotron. 4. If voltage at regulator exceeds closing voltage specification and light remains on, regulator field relay is faulty (Reter to specifications). Check and adjust regulator as follows: Closing Voltage Adjustment 1. Make connections as shown in Figure 9c using a 50 ohm variable resistor. NOTE: This gives us a variable resistance in series from a hot lead to the relay coil. 2. Turn resistor to “open” position. 3. Turn ignition switch off. 4. Slowly decrease resistance and note closing voltage of the relay. Adjust by bending heel iron in the manner illustrated in Figure 9c. Fig. 9c—Adjusting Field Relay Closing Voltage Other Harness Cnecks Other wires in the charging system harness need be checked for continuity by use of an ohmmeter or a test light (12 Volt). Connect the test lamp so the wire in question is in series in the test circuit. COMPONENT PART REPLACEMENT GENERATOR PULLEY REPLACEMENT Single Groove Pulley 1. Place 15/16” box wrench on retaining nut and insert 5/16” alien wrench into shaft to hold shaft while removing nut (Fig. 10c). 2. Remove washer and slide pulley fan and spacer from shaft. 3. Reverse Steps 1 and 2 to install, use a torque wrench with a craw-foot adapter (instead of box wrench) and torque the nut to 50 ft. lbs. (Fig. 1 lc).VIEW A FWD. Fig. 12c—Delcotron Installation Double Groove Pulley 1. Place a 15/16” socket (with wrench flats on the drive end or use Adapter J-21501 and a box wrench) on retaining nut, insert a 5/16” alien wrench through socket and adapter into hex on shaft to hold the shaft while removing the nut. 2. Remove washer and slide pulley fan and spacer from shaft. 3. To install, slide fan, spacer, pulley and washer on shaft and start the nut. 4. Use the socket and adapter with a torque wrench and tighten nut to 50 ft. lbs. torque. GENERATOR REPLACEMENT (FIG. 12C) 1. Disconnect battery ground strap at battery to prevent damaging wiring harnesses. 2. Disconnect wiring leads at Delcotron. 3. Remove generator brace bolt and detach drive belt. 4. Support generator and remove generator mount bolt and remove from vehicle. 5. Reverse removal procedure to install, then adjust drive belt as described under tune-up section. DOUBLE CONTACT REGULATOR NOTE: Voltage regulating contacts should never be cleaned as they are made of special material that may be destroyed by cleaning with any abrasive material. A sooty or discolored condition of the contacts is normal after a relatively short period of operation. Removal and Installation To remove the regulator assembly, disconnect the battery ground cable and the wiring harness connector at the regulator, then remove the screws securing the regulator to the vehicle.IGNITION SYSTEMS INDEX Page Maintenance ....................6Y-17 Periodic Maintenance 6Y-17 Spark Plugs ..................... 6Y-17 Cables..........................6Y-17 Adjustment and Repairs 6Y-17 Distributor Contact Points 6Y-17 Cleaning 6Y-17 Replacement 6Y-17 Setting Dwell Angle 6Y-18 Distributor Condenser 6Y-20 Page Performance Diagnosis 6Y-20 Replacement 6Y-20 Distributor 6Y-20 Removal 6Y-20 Disassembly 6Y-20 Cleaning and Inspection 6Y-21 Assembly ....................6Y-21 Installation 6Y-23 Spark Plug and Wire Service 6Y-24 MAINTENANCE PERIODIC MAINTENANCE The distributor breaker points and spark plugs are the only ignition system components that require periodic service. The remainder of the ignition system requires only periodic inspection to check operation of the units, tightness of the electrical connections, and condition of the wiring. When checking the coil, test with a reputable tester. The distributors are equipped with a cam lubricator, which should be rotated 180° every 12,000 miles and replaced every 24,000 miles. Do not attempt to lubricate the element, but replace when necessary. Distributor shaft lubrication is accomplished by a reservoir of lube around the mainshaft in the distributor body. Spark Plugs Should be removed, inspected, cleaned and regapped at tune-up. Defective plugs should be replaced. Refer to Section 6, Tune-up. Cables The low and high tension cables should be examined carefully for brittle or cracked insulation and broken strands. Defective insulation will permit missing or cross firing of the engine. Connections should be clean and tight. ADJUSTMENTS DISTRIBUTOR CONTACT POINTS Cleaning Dirty contact points should be dressed with a few strokes of a clean, fine-cut contact file. The file should not be used for other metals and should not be allowed to become greasy or dirty. Never use emery cloth to clean contact points. Contact surfaces, after considerable use, may not appear bright and smooth, but this is not necessarily an indication that they are not functioning satisfactorily. Do not attempt to remove all roughness nor dress the point surfaces down smooth; merely remove scale or dirt. Badly burned or pitted contact points should be replaced and the cause of trouble determined so it can be eliminated. High resistance or loose connections in the condenser circuit, oil or foreign materials on the contact surfaces, improper point adjustment or high voltages may cause oxidized contact points. Check for these conditions where burned contacts are experienced. An out-of-balance condition in the ignition system, often the result of too much or too little condenser capacity, is indicated where point pitting is encountered. AND REPAIRS Replacement Six Cylinder Engine Distributor 1. Release distributor cap hold-down screws, remove cap and place it out of work area. 2. Remove rotor and dust shield. 3. Pull primary and condenser lead wires from contact point quick disconnect terminal (Fig. li). 4. Remove contact set attaching screw, lift contact point set from breaker plate. 5. Clean breaker plate of oil smudge and dirt. 6. Place new contact point assembly in position on breaker plate, install attaching screw. NOTE: Pilot on contact set must engage matching hole in breaker plate. 7. Connect primary and condenser lead wires to quick disconnect terminal on contact point set. NOTE: Breaker lever spring tension and point alignment are factory set. Only dwell angle requires adjustment.BREAKER PLATE ATTACHING SCREWS Fig. 1i—Breaker Plate and Attaching Parts 8. Rotate or replace cam lubricator, as required. 9. Set point opening (.019” for new points). 10. Reinstall dust shield, rotor, position and lock distributor cap to housing. 11. Start engine and test dwell and ignition timing. Fig. 2i—Distributor Lead Arrangements Setting Dwell Angle Six Cylinder Engine Distributor The point opening of new points can be checked with a feeler gauge, but the use of a feeler gauge on rough or uncleaned used points is not recommended since accurate mechanical gauging cannot be done on such points (Fig. 3i). Contacts points must be set to the proper opening. Points set too close may tend to burn and pit rapidly. Points with excessive separation tend to cause a weak spark at high speed. Proper point setting for all models are: .019” for new points .016” for used points Eight Cylinder Engine Distributor 1. The contact point set is replaced as one complete assembly and only dwell angle requires adjustment after replacement. Breaker lever spring tension and point alignment are factory set. 2. Remove the distributor cap by placing a screwdriver in the slot head of the latch, press down and turn 1/4 turn in either direction. 3. Remove rotor attaching screws and rotor. 4. Loosen the two attaching screws which hold the base of the contact set assembly in place and slide set from breaker plate. 5. Remove the primary and condenser leads from their nylon insulated connection (Fig. 2i) in contact set. 6. Reverse Steps 2, 3 and 4 to install new contact set. CAUTION: Install the primary and condenser leads as shown in Figure 3i. Improper installation will cause lead interference between the cap, weight base and breaker advance plate. 7. Rotate or replace cam lubricator as required. 8. Start engine and check point dwell and ignition timing. Fig. 3i—Inaccurate Gauge of Rough Points PRIMARY LEADADJUST DWELL ANGLE SETTING OR POINT OPENING Fig. 4i—Setting Point Opening New points must be set to the larger opening as the rubbing block will wear down slightly while seating to the cam. Contact points should be cleaned before adjusting if they have been in service. To adjust the contact point opening: 1. Turn or crank the distributor shaft until the breaker arm rubbing block is on the high point of the cam lobe. This will provide maximum point opening. 2. Loosen the contact support lock screw. 3. Use a screwdriver (Fig. 4i) to move the point support to obtain a .019” opening for new points and a .016” opening for used points. 4. Tighten the contact support lock screw and recheck the point opening. 5. After checking and adjusting the contact point opening to specifications, the cam angle or dwell should be checked with a dwell angle meter if such equipment is available (see Specifications tor proper dwell angle). If the cam angle is less than the specified minimum, check for defective or misaligned contact point (Fig. 5i) or worn distributor cam lobes. The variation in cam angle readings between idle speed and 1750 engine rpm should not exceed 3°. Excessive variation in this speed range indicates wear in the distributor. NOTE: Cam angle readings taken at speeds above 1750 engine rpm may prove unreliable on some cam angle meters. Eight Cylinder Engine Distributor On the Vehicle With the engine running at idle and operating temperatures normalized, the dwell is adjusted by first raising the window provided in the cap and inserting a “Hex” type wrench into the adjusting screw head (Fig. 6i). 1. Preferred Method Turn the adjusting screw until the specified dwell angle is obtained as measured in degrees (29° to 31°, 30° preferred) by a dwell angle meter. 2. Alternate Method Turn adjusting screw in (clockwise) until the engine begins to misfire, then turn screw 1/2 turn in the opposite direction (counterclockwise). This will give the approximate dwell angle required. (Use only when meter is not available.) Off the Vehicle 1. Distributor Test Method: a. With the distributor mounted on a distributor testing machine, connect the dwell meter to the distributor primary lead. b. Turn the adjusting screw (Fig. 6i) to set the dwell angle to 30 degrees. 2. Test Light Method: a. With the distributor mounted in a vise, connect a testing lamp to the primary lead. b. Rotate the shaft until one of the circuit breaker cam lobes is under the center of the rubbing block of the breaker lever. LATERAL PROPER MISALIGNMENT LATERAL ALIGNMENT CORRECT LATERAL MISALIGNMENT BY BENDING FIXED CONTACT SUPPORT NEVER BEND BREAKER LEVERc. Turn the adjusting screw clockwise (Fig. 6i) until the lamp lights, then give the wrench 1/2 turn in the opposite direction (counterclockwise) to obtain the proper dwell angle. DISTRIBUTOR CONDENSER Performance Diagnosis The following four factors affect condenser performance, and each factor must be considered in making any condenser test. 1. Breakdown—A failure of the insulating material. A direct short between the metallic elements of the condenser. This prevents any condenser action. 2. Low Insulating Resistance (leakage)—Low insulation resistance prevents the condenser from holding a charge. All condensers are subject to leakage which, up to a certain limit, is not objectionable. 3. High Series Resistance—Excessive resistance in the condenser circuit due to broken strands in the condenser leak or to a defective connection. This will cause burned points and ignition failure upon initial starts and at high speeds. 4. Capacity—Capacity is determined by the area of the metallic elements and the insulating and impregnating materials. For a complete check of the condenser, use a tester which will check for all of the above conditions. Follow the instructions given by the manufacturer of the test equipment. Condenser capacity should be .18-.23 microfarads. Replacement Six Cylinder Engine Distributor (Fig. 1i) 1. Release distributor cap hold-down screws, remove cap and place it out of the work area. 2. Remove rotor and dust shield. 3. Disconnect condenser lead wire from contact point quick-disconnect terminal. 4. Remove condenser attaching screw, lift condenser from breaker plate and wipe breaker plate clean. 5. Install new condenser using reverse of procedure outlined above. Eight Cylinder Engine Distributor 1. Remove distributor cap and rotor. 2. Disconnect condenser lead (Fig. 2i) from terminal. 3. Remove screw holding condenser bracket to breaker plate and slide condenser from bracket. 4. To replace condenser reverse the above procedure. NOTE: Make sure that new condenser lead is installed in proper position (Fig. 2i). Distributor—Removal 1. Release the distributor cap hold-down screws, remove the cap and place it clear of the work area. NOTE: If necessary, remove secondary leads from the distributor cap after first marking the cap tower for the lead to No. 1 cylinder. This will aid in the reinstallation of leads in the cap. 2. Disconnect the distributor primary lead from the coil terminal. 3. Scribe a realignment mark on the distributor bowl and engine in line with the rotor segment. 4. Disconnect external connections (vacuum line, drive cables, etc.) remove the distributor hold-down bolt and clamp, remove the distributor from the engine. Note position of vacuum advance mechanism relative to the engine. CAUTION: Avoid rotating the engine with the distributor removed as the ignition timing will be upset. Disassembly It is advisable to place the distributor in a distributor testing machine or synchroscope prior to disassembly. When mounting distributors for tests, First secure the gear in the test drive mechanism, then push the distributor housing downward toward the gear to take up any end play between the gear and the housing. Test the distributor for variation of spark, correct centrifugal and vacuum advance and condition of contacts. This test will give valuable information on distributor condition and indicate parts replacement which may be necessary. Check the area on the breaker plate just beneath the contact points. A smudgy line indicates that oil or crankcase vapors have been present between the points. Six Cylinder Engines Refer to Figure 7i. 1. Remove the rotor and dust shield. 2. Remove the vacuum control assembly retaining screws, detach the unit from the distributor housing. 3. Disconnect the primary and condenser leads from the contact point quick disconnect terminal, remove the contact point set attaching screw, condenser attaching screw. Remove the point set and condenser from the breaker plate. 4. Remove the breaker plate attaching screws, remove the breaker plate from the distributor housing (Fig. 7i). NOTE: Do not disassemble breaker plate any further. 5. Remove the roll pin retaining the driven gear to the mainshaft, slide the gear from the shaft. 6. Slide the cam and mainshaft from the distributor housing. 7. Remove the weight cover and stop plate screws, remove the cover, weight springs, weights and slide cam assembly from the mainshaft.1. Cap 12. Vacuum Control Assembly 2. Rotor 13. Housing 3. Dust Shield 14. Weight Cover Attaching 4. Contact Point Attaching Screw Screw 15. Weight Cover 5. Contact Point Assembly 16. Weight Springs 6. Breaker Plate Attaching 17. Advance Weights Screws 18. Cam Assembly 7. Condenser Attaching Screw 19. Mainshaft Assembly 8. Condenser 20. Drive Gear 9. Breaker Plate Assembly 21. Roll Pin 10. Cam Lubricator 11. Vacuum Advance Linkage Boot Fig. 7i—L-6 Distributor Exploded View V-8 Engines Refer to Figure 8i. 1. Remove the rotor. 2. Remove both weight springs and advance weights. 3. Remove roll pin retaining driven gear to the distributor shaft, slide the gear and spacers from the shaft. 4. Before sliding the distributor shaft from the housing, check for and remove any burrs on the shaft. This will prevent damage to the seals and bushing still positioned in the housing. 5. Slide the distributor mainshaft and cam-weight base assembly from the housing. 6. Remove vacuum advance mechanism retaining screws, remove the vacuum advance assembly. 7. Remove the spring retainer, remove the breaker plate assembly from the distributor housing. Remove the contact point and condenser from the breaker plate. Remove the felt washer and plastic seal located beneath the breaker plate. Cleaning and Inspection 1. Wash all parts in cleaning except cap, rotor, condenser, breaker plate assembly and vacuum control unit. Degreasing compounds may damage insulation of these parts or saturate the lubricating felt in the case of the breaker plate assembly. 2. Inspect the breaker plate assembly for damage or wear and replace if necessary. 3. Inspect the shaft for wear and check its fit in the bushings in the distributor body. If the shaft or bushings are worn, the parts should be replaced. 4. Mount the shaft in “V” blocks and check the shaft alignment with a dial gauge. The run-out should not exceed .002”. 5. Inspect the advance weights for wear or burrs and free fit on their pivot pins. 6. Inspect the cam for wear or roughness. Then check its fit on the end of the shaft. It should be absolutely free without any roughness. 7. Inspect the condition of the distributor points. Dirty points should be cleaned and badly pitted points should be replaced. (See Distributor Contact Points.) 8. Test the condenser for series resistance, microfarad capacity (.18 to .23) and leakage or breakdown, following the instructions given by the manufacturer of the test equipment used. 9. Inspect the distributor cap and spark plug wires for damage and replace if necessary. Assembly Six Cylinder Engine Refer to Figure 7i, for Exploded View of Distributor. 1. Replace cam assembly to mainshaft. NOTE: Lubricate top end of shaft with Delco cam and ball bearing grease or equivalent prior to replacing. 2. Install governor weights on their pivot pins,- replace weight springs. Install weight cover and stop plate. 3. Lubricate mainshaft and install it in distributor housing. 4. Install distributor driven gear to mainshaft and insert retaining roll pin. Check to see that shaft turns freely. 5. Install breaker plate assembly in the distributor body and attach retaining screws. 6. Attach condenser and contact point set in proper location with appropriate attaching screws. NOTE: Contact point set pilot must engage matching hole in breaker plate. Connect primary and condenser leads to contact set quick-disconnect terminal.1. Condenser 2. Contact Point Assembly 3. Retaining Ring 4. Breaker Plate 5. Felt Washer 5a. Plastic Seal 6. Vacuum Advance Unit 7. Housing 7a. Tanged Washer 8. Shim Washer 9. Drive Gear Pin 10. Drive Gear 11. Cap 12. Rotor 13. Weight Springs 14. Mainshaft 15. Advance Weights 16. Cam Weight Base Assembly Fig. 8i—V-8 Distributor (Typical) 7. Attach vacuum control assembly to distributor housing. 8. Check and adjust contact point opening and alignment. (See setting and alignment of points.) 9. Install dust shield and rotor. V-8 Engines—(Fig. 8i) 1. a. Fill housing lubricating cavity with proper com- pound, press in new plastic seal and install felt washer. b. Replace the vacuum advance unit. c. Install the breaker plate in housing and the spring retainer on the upper bushing. NOTE: Spring should seat on the "flat" machined on one side of the mainshaft. 2. Lubricate and slide weight cam over mainshaft and install weights and spring (Fig. 9i). 3. Insert mainshaft into housing, indexing it with drive gear and washers. 4. Slide distributor drive gear shims and gear over shaft and install new pin. Tap new pin through gear and mainshaft. Check shaft for free rotation. 5. Install contact point set and condenser to breaker plate. Connect leads as shown in Figure 2i. 6. Install rotor to cam assembly, indexing round and square pilot holes. Installation—Engine Not Disturbed (All Models) 1. Turn the rotor about 1/8 turn in a clockwise direction past the mark previously placed on the distributor housing to locate rotor and push the distributor down into position in the block.NOTE: It may be necessary to move rotor slightly to start gear into mesh with camshaft gear, but rotor should line up with the mark when distributor is down in place. 2. Tighten the distributor clamp bolt snugly and connect vacuum line. Connect primary wire to coil terminal and install cap. Also install spark plug and high tension wires if removed. NOTE: It is important that the spark plug wires be installed in their proper location in the supports (Figs. 10i and 11i). 3. Time ignition as previously described under Tune-Up in Section 6. Installation—Engine Disturbed (All Models) 1. Locate No. 1 piston in firing position by either of two methods described below. a. Remove No. 1 spark plug and, with finger on plug hole, crank engine until compression is felt in the No. 1 cylinder. Continue cranking until timing mark on crankshaft pulley lines up with timing tab attached to engine front cover. b. Remove rocker cover (left bank on V-8 engines) and crank engine until No. 1 intake valve closes and continue to crank slowly about 1/3 turn until timing mark on pulley lines up with timing tab. 2. Position distributor to opening block in normal installed attitude (Figs. lOi and Hi), noting position of vacuum control unit. 3. Position rotor to point toward front of engine (with distributor housing held in installed attitude), then turn rotor counterclockwise approximately 1/8 turn more toward left cylinder bank and push distributor down to engine camshaft. It may be necessary to rotate rotor slightly until camshaft engagement is felt. 4. While pressing firmly down on distributor housing, kick starter over a few times to make sure oil pump shaft is Fig. 10i—L-6 Spark Plug Wire Installation engaged. Install hold-down clamp and bolt and snug up bolt. 5. Turn distributor body slightly until points just open and tighten distributor clamp bolt. 6. Place distributor cap in position and check to see that rotor lines up with terminal for No. 1 spark plug. 7. Install cap, check all high tension wire connections and connect spark plug wires if they have been removed. It is important that the wires be installed in their location in the supports. NOTE: The brackets are numbered to show the correct installation. Wires must be installed as indicated to prevent cross firing. 8. Connect vacuum line to distributor and distributor primary wire to coil terminal. 9. Start engine and set timing as described under Tune-Up in Section 6.SPARK PLUG AND WIRE SERVICE Removal and Inspection 1. To disconnect wires, pull only on the boot. Pulling on the wire might cause separation of the core of the wire. Remove spark plugs and gaskets using a 5/8” deep socket on the 5/8” hex tapered plugs. Use care in this operation to avoid cracking spark plug insulators. 2. Carefully inspect the insulator and electrodes of all spark plugs. Replace any spark plug which has a cracked or broken insulator. If the insulator is worn away around the center electrode, or the electrodes are burned or worn, the spark plug is worn out and should be discarded. Spark plugs which are in good condition except for carbon or oxide deposits should be thoroughly cleaned and adjusted. 3. The spark plug wires are a special resistance type. The core is carbon-impregnated linen. This wire is designed to eliminate radio and television interference radiation, but is also superior in resistance to cross fire. The resistance type wire, however, is more easily damaged than copper core wire. For this reason care must be taken that the spark plug wires are removed by pulling on the spark plug boots rather than on the wire insulation. Also, when it is necessary to replace a spark plug boot, the old boot should be carefully cut from the wire and a small amount of silicone lubricant used to aid in installing the new boot. If the wire is stretched, the core may be broken with no evidence of damage on the outer insulation. The terminal may also pull off the wire. If the core is broken, it will cause missing. In the case of wire damage, it is necessary to replace the complete wire assembly as a satisfactory repair cannot be made. 4. Wipe ignition wires with cloth moistened with kerosene, and wipe dry. Carefully bend wires to check for brittle, cracked, or loose insulation. Defective insulation will permit missing or cross-firing of engine, therefore defective wires should be replaced. 5. If the wires are in good condition, clean any terminals that are corroded and replace any terminals that are broken or distorted. Replace any broken or deteriorated cable nipples or spark plug boots. Spark Plug Cleaning Spark plugs which have carbon or oxide deposits should be cleaned in a blast type spark plug cleaner. Scraping with a pointed tool will not properly remove the deposits and may damage the insulator. If spark plugs have a wet or oily deposit dip them in a degreasing solvent and then dry thoroughly with dry compressed air. Oily plugs will cause the cleaning compound to pack in the shell. Carefully follow the instructions of the manufacturer of the cleaner being used, cleaning each plug until the interior of shell and the entire insulator are clean; however, avoid excessive blasting. Fig. 12i—Setting Spark Plug Gap Examine interior of plug in good light. Remove any cleaning compound with compressed air. If traces of carbon oxide remain in plug, finish the cleaning with a light blasting operation. Clean firing surfaces of center and side electrodes with several strokes of a fine file. When spark plugs have been thoroughly cleaned, carefully inspect for cracks or other defects which may not have been visible before cleaning. Adjusting Spark Plug Gap Use round wire feeler gages to check the gap between spark plug electrodes of used plugs (Fig. 12i). Flat feeler gages will not give a correct measurement if the electrodes are worn. Adjust gap by bending the side electrodes only; bending the center electrode will crack the insulator. Adjust gaps to specification. Setting spark plug gap to other than specification to effect changes in engine performance is not recommended. Installation of Spark Plugs When installing spark plugs, make sure that all surfaces on plugs and in cylinder heads are clean. When installing the 5/8” hex tapered seat spark plugs, tighten to 1 5 lb. ft., using a 5/8” deep socket, and a torque wrench. Installation of Spark Plug Wires No. 1 spark plug wire is installed in the first distributor cap tower after the adjusting window, moving in the direction of rotation (V-8), or in the foremost tower (L-6). The other wires are then installed in a clockwise direction according to the firing order (Figs. lOi and 1 li).STARTING SYSTEM INDEX Page General Description...........................6Y-25 Maintenance and Adjustments...................6Y-25 Lubrication...............................6Y-25 Resistance Checks..........................6Y-25 Page Starting Motor and Solenoid Checks............6Y-26 Component Part Replacement...................6Y-26 Removal and Installation.....................6Y-26 GENERAL DESCRIPTION The function of the starting system, composed of the starting motor, solenoid and battery, is to crank the engine. The battery supplies the electrical energy, the solenoid completes the circuit to the starting motor, and the motor then does the actual work of cranking the engine. The starting motor (Fig. 1 s) consists primarily of the drive mechanism, frame, armature, brushes, and field windings. The starting motor is a 12-volt extruded frame type, having four pole shoes and four fields, connected with the armature. The aluminum drive end housing is extended to enclose the entire shift lever and plunger mechanism, protecting them from dirt, splash, and icing. The flange mounted solenoid switch operates the overrunning clutch drive by means of a linkage to the shift lever. MAINTENANCE AND ADJUSTMENTS LUBRICATION The gasoline engine type starting motors have graphite and oil impregnated bronze bearings and therefore require no periodic lubrication between major overhauls. RESISTANCE CHECKS Although the starting motor cannot be checked against specifications on the car, a check can be made for excessive resistance in the starting circuit. Place a voltmeter across CONTACT FINGER SOLENOID BRUSH PLUNGER RETURN SPRING SHIFT LEVER PINION STOP INSULATED BRUSH HOLDER \ FIELD COIL BRUSH SPRING ARMATURE GROUNDED BRUSH HOLDER ASSIST SPRING OVERRUNNING CLUTCHpoints in the cranking circuit as outlined below and observe the reading with the starling switch closed and the motor cranking (distributor primary lead grounded to prevent engine firing). 1. From battery positive post to solenoid battery terminal. 2. From battery negative post to starting motor housing. 3. From solenoid battery terminal to solenoid motor terminal. II voltage drop is any of above, check exceeds 0.2 volts, excessive resistance is indicated in that portion of starting circuit and the cause of the excessive resistance could be located and corrected in order to obtain maximum efficiency in tiie circuit. CAUTION: Do not operate the starting motor continuously for more than 30 seconds to avoid overheating. When the solenoid fails to pull in, the trouble may be due to excessive voltage drop in the solenoid control circuit. To check for this condition, close the starting switch and measure the voltage drop between the BATTHRY terminal of the solenoid and the SWITCH (S) terminal of the solenoid. 1. If this voltage drop exceeds 3.5 volts, excessive resistance in the solenoid control circuit is indicated and should be corrected. 2. If the voltage drop does not exceed 3.5 volts and the solenoid does not pull in. measure the voltage available at the SWITCH terminal of the solenoid. 3. If the solenoid does not feel warm, it should pull in whenever the voltage available at the SWITCH terminal is 7.7 volts or more. When the solenoid feels warm, it will require a somewhat higher voltage to pull in. STARTING MOTOR AND SOLENOID CHECK The following checks may be made if the specific gravity of the battery is 1.21 5 or higher. 1. If the solenoid does not pull in, measure the voltage between the switch (S) terminal of the solenoid and ground with the starting switch closed. CAUTION: If the solenoid feels warm, allow to cool before checking. If the voltage is less than 7.7 volts, check lor excessive resistance in the solenoid control circuit. It the voltage exceeds 7.7 volts, remove the starting motor and check (I) solenoid current draw, (2) starting motor pinion clearance, and (3) freedom of shift lever linkage. 2. If the solenoid “chatters” but does not hold in, check the solenoid for an open “hold in” winding. Whenever it is necessary to replace a starting motor solenoid, always check starting motor pinion clearance. 3. If motor engages but does not crank or cranks slowly, check for excessive resistance in the external starting circuit, trouble within the starting motor, or excessive engine resistance to cranking. COMPONENT PART REPLACEMENT STARTER MOTOR Removal and Installation The following procedure is a general guide lor all vehicles and will vary slightly depending on the truck series and model. I. Disconnect battery ground cable at the battery. 2. Disconnect engine wiring harness and battery leads at solenoid terminals. NOTE: On some V-8 engine models it may be necessary to remove mounting bolts and then disconnect wiring. 3. Remove starter mounting bolts and retaining nuts and disengage starter assembly from the flywheel housing. 4. Position starter motor assembly to the llywheel housing and install the mounting bolts and retaining nuts. Torque the mounting bolts 25-35 ft. lbs. 5. Connect all wiring leads at the solenoid terminals. 6. Connect the battery ground cable and check operation of the unit.SPECIAL TOOLS J-21501 PULLY ADAPTER Fig. 2s—Special ToolCLUTCHES & TRANSMISSIONS CONTENTS OF THIS SECTION Page Page Clutch Controls ................................7-1 Turbo Hydra-Matic 350 ......................... 7-9 Clutches......................................7-3 Special Tools .................................7-18 Manual Transmissions............................7-6 CLUTCH CONTROLS INDEX Page Page General Description..............................7-1 Insufficient Clutch Release........................7-1 Maintenance and Adjustments......................7-1 Clutch Pedal Replacement........................7-2 Clutch Free Pedal Travel Adjustment ..............7-1 Clutch Cross Shaft..............................7-3 GENERAL DESCRIPTION The clutch operating controls for G-Series Chevy Vans and Sport Vans are mechanical. The mechanical linkage consists of pendant type pedal, return spring, pedal pull rod, cross-shaft, fork push rod, clutch fork and throwout bearing (Fig. 1). The pedal pull rod is routed vertically, inside the cab, from the pedal lever down through a seal boot on the toe pan, to the cross-shaft lever. When the clutch pedal is depressed, the pedal pull or push rod moves upward rotating the cross-shaft, pushing the fork push rod rearward, and pivoting the clutch fork to move the throwout bearing against the clutch release fingers and rfeleasing the clutch. MAINTENANCE AND ADJUSTMENTS CLUTCH FREE PEDAL TRAVEL ADJUSTMENT Only one simple adjustment is necessary to maintain clutch efficiency and assure long life. This adjustment is for the amount of free clutch pedal travel before the throwout bearing contacts the clutch Fingers. As clutch facings wear, the amount of free pedal travel is reduced and in time this will result in clutch slippage. Therefore, it is necessary to adjust pedal at periodic intervals to provide sufficient free pedal travel (3/4”-1”) to permit full engagement of the clutch. 1. Disconnect clutch fork return spring at fork. 2. Loosen nut “A” (fig. 2) and back off from swivel approximately 1/2 inch. 3. Hold clutch fork push rod against fork to move throwout bearing against clutch fingers (push rod will slide through swivel at cross-shaft). 4. Rotate lever in direction of Arrow, D (fig. 2) until clutch pedal contacts bumper mounted on parking brake support. 5. Adjust nut “B” to obtain approximately 3/16” to 1/4” clearance between nut “B” and swivel. 6. Release push rod, connect return spring and tighten nut “A” to lock swivel against nut “B” being careful not to disturb nut “B”. 7. Check free pedal clearance at pedal (fig. 3). Readjust if necessary. INSUFFICIENT CLUTCH RELEASE Where complaints of first or reverse gear clash due to insufficient clutch release are encountered, the following may be helpful. Cut off the existing clutch pedal stop bumper to a height of 3/8”. Since shortening the bumper increases the lashand not the usable stroke, the lash must be reduced to Installation specifications in order to gain the additional stroke benefit. r NOTE: Use new shaft bushing if needed and lubri- cate with Lubriplate or petrolatum. CLUTCH PEDAL REPLACEMENT (Refer to Fig. 1) Removal 1. Pull parking brake lever to applied position. 2. Remove bolt at clutch pedal push rod lever, then remove lever from pedal shaft. 3. Hold pedal pad with one hand and slide pedal and shaft assembly outboard enough to clear pedal stop, then allow return spring (or overcenter spring) to pull pedal up high enough to unhook spring from pedal arm. 4. Remove pedal and shaft assembly from support bracket. Inspection 1. Check clutch pedal bushings for excessive wear and replace if necessary. 2. Check clutch pedal shaft for wear and alignment and straighten or replace if necessary. ¥ 1 1 jr- 1 ■ 1 1 / 1 M L v,v\. V s \ v ^ V ' \ 1 \ \ \ v V. A' s. / «* ■” * . 1. Slide one pedal shaft bushing over shaft, install shaft in support enough to still clear pedal bumper stop, hook pedal return (or overcenter) spring to pedal, then rotate pedal forward of bumper stop; slide shaft into position in support and release pedal against bumper stop. 2. Install clutch pedal shaft bushing over pedal shaft end and into place in sleeve. 3. Assemble pedal push rod lever over pedal shaft and install bolts, washers, and nut. Torque to 25 ft. lbs. 4. Adjust clutch pedal free travel as needed. CLUTCH CROSS-SHAFT (Fig. 1) Removal 1. Disconnect clutch fork return spring at fork. 2. Disconnect pedal pull rod at cross-shaft lever and allow clutch fork push rod to hang free from lower lever. 3. Remove bracket to frame bolts and slide cross-shaft on engine ball stud until frame bracket clears lower frame flange and then slide shaft off stud and out of vehicle. 4. Remove clutch fork push rod from cross-shaft lever if necessary. 5. Reverse removal procedure to install. Fig. 3—Clutch Pedal Free Travel NOTE: Lubricate ball studs with a graphite type CLUTCHES DIAPHRAGM SPRING CLUTCH INDEX Page Maintenance and Adjustments 7-4 Preliminary Inspection 7-4 Clutch Retracting Spring Replacement 7-4 Diaphragm Clutch Adjustment........_.......7-4 Component Replacement Clutch Assembly Removal Installation Page 7-5 7-5 .7-5 .7-5 MAINTENANCE AND ADJUSTMENTS PRELIMINARY INSPECTION There are many things which affect good clutch operation. Therefore, it is necessary, before performing any major clutch operations, to make a preliminary inspection to determine whether or not the trouble is actually in the clutch. 1. Check the clutch pedal and make sure that the pedal has at least 3/4”-l” free travel. 2. Check the clutch pedal bushing for wear and for sticking on the shaft or loose mountings. 3. Lubricate the pedal linkage. 4. Tighten all front and rear engine mounting bolts. Should the mountings be oil soaked, it will be necessary to replace them. Refer to Section 6, engine of the chassis service and overhaul manuals. CLUTCH RETRACTING SPRING REPLACEMENT A rattle in the clutch assembly at idling speeds with the clutch released or failure of the clutch to release properly may be caused by insufficient tension on the pressure pljite retracting springs. These troubles can easily be checked by replacing the springs, as follows: 1. Remove the clutch housing underpan. 2. Hand crank the engine until one retracting spring attaching bolt is at the bottom. Remove the bolt and retracting spring and install a new spring. 3. Replace the other retracting springs in the same manner. 4. Replace clutch housing underpan.Fig. 4—Checking Pressure Plate Lift W/Dial Indicator DIAPHRAGM CLUTCH ADJUSTMENT It' clutch tails to release: 1. Check pedal tor proper travel and linkage for looseness, adjustments, etc. 2. Check clutch retracting springs for proper retention of pressure plate to diaphragm spring, replace if necessary'. This can be done without removing clutch from vehicle. 3. If Steps 1 and 2 do not cure trouble, check pressure plate lift with dial indicator (fig. ) as follows: a. With proper linkage adjustment (and lash), zero indicator with clutch fully engaged (pedal up). b. Measure pressure plate lift at 3 strap bolt positions with full pedal travel. NOTE: Use 5/8” thick board in place of floor mat to give a positive stop. All three readings should be within .010" and within total lift readings. If more than .010” check retract- Fig. 5—Gauging Shim Requirement ing springs per step 2. If trouble still exists, loosen clutch-to-flywheel mounting bolt at position of lowest reading (leave other bolts tight), pry cover, away from flywheel, and insert feeler gauge (fig. 5) to determine thickness of shim required to bring reading within .010”. Total lift readings should be as follows; 10” .065 to .075 11 ” .065 to .085 Make sure proper pedal lash adjustment is made before checking. NOTE: Excessively high readings indicate that the diaphragm spring is being over stressed which may eventually cause loss of load and result in slippage. If above measures fail to correct the trouble, check driven disc with clutch pedal depressed (it should spin freely with transmission in neutral). If it does not. trouble may be: 1. Misalignment between pilot bushing in crankshaft and clutch housing. 2. Faulty clutch pilot bushing. 3. Faulty driven disc. COMPONENT REPLACEMENT CLUTCH ASSEMBLY Removal 1. Remove transmission as outlined in "Transmission Section.” 2. Remove clutch throwout bearing from the fork. 3. Remove clutch fork by pressing it away from its ball mounting with a screwdriver, until the fork snaps loose from the ball or remove tha ball stud from rear of clutch housing. NOTE: The retainer may be removed from the fork by prying out with a small screwdriver. 4. Install Tool J-5824 to support the clutch assembly during removal. 5. Loosen the clutch attaching bolts one turn at a time to prevent distortion of clutch cover until diaphragm spring is released. 6. Remove clutch pilot and remove clutch assembly from vehicle. Installation 1. Install the pressure plate in the cover assembly lining up the notch mark on pressure plate with notch mark on flange of cover. 2. Install pressure plate retracting springs and drive strap to pressure plate bolts and lockwashers and tighten to 11 ft. lbs. torque. The clutch is now ready to be installed. 3. Hand crank the engine until “X” mark on flywheel is at the bottom. 4. Install clutch disc, pressure plate and cover assembly and support them with Tool J-5824.5. Turn Clutch assembly until “X” mark, on clutch cover flange lines up with “X” mark on flywheel. 6. Install attaching bolts and tighten each one a turn at a time to prevent distorting the cover as the spring pressure is taken up. 7. Remove clutch pilot Tool J-5824. 8. Pack clutch fork ball seat with a small amount of high melting point grease and install a new retainer in the groove of the clutch fork if the old retainer is worn or damaged. NOTE: Install retainer with high side up, away from bottom of the ball socket and with open end of retainer on the horizontal. CAUTION: Be careful not to use too much lubri- KEV-Coo cant. 9. Replace clutch fork ball if removed in the clutch housing and snap clutch fork onto the ball. w 10. Lubricate the recess on the inside of the throwout \\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\ '\\\\\\\\\\\\\\v\ bearing collar and coat the throwout fork groove with a ^ small amount of graphite grease (fig. 6).vNXvw \V\ 11. Install throwout bearing assembly to the throwout fork. 12. Assemble transmission as outlined in Transmission Section, and install flywheel underpan. 13. Align push rod to clutch fork and attach return spring to clutch fork. “ 14. Adjust clutch linkage (See adjustments in this section). Fig. 6-Lubrication Points on Clutch Throwout Bearing COIL SPRING CLUTCH INDEX Page Page 7-6 Removal from Vehicle 7-6 7-6 Installation to Vehicle 7-6 GENERAL DESCRIPTION The coil spring single plate clutch is a dry disc type and no adjustment for wear is provided in the clutch itself. An individual adjustment is provided for locating each lever in manufacturing but the adjusting nut is locked in place and should never be disturbed, unless the clutch is dismantled for replacement of parts. When the clutch pedal is depressed the release bearing is removed toward the flywheel and contacts the inner ends of the release levers, (1) (fig. 7). Each release lever is pivoted on a floating pin which remains stationary in the lever and rolls across a short flat portion of the enlarged hole in the eyebolt (2). The outer end of each release lever engages the pressure plate lug be means of a strut (3), which provides knife-edge contact between the outer end of the lever and the lug. The outer ends of the eyebolts extend through holes in the stamped cover (4), and are fitted with adjusting nuts (5) to correctly position the levers. Fig. 7-Release Lever 1. Release Lever 3. Strut 5. Adjusting Nut 2. Eyebolt 4. Cover General Description Component Replacement COAT THIS GROOVE vWWWWW \\\\\\v ) PACK THIS — RECESS f x\\\\\\\ |li% I Fig. 6—Lubrication Points on Clutch Throwout BearingCOMPONENT REPLACEMENT as the holding screws are removed or when clutch is removed from engine. CLUTCH ASSEMBLY Removal From Vehicle Before removing clutch from flywheel, mark with a punch the flywheel, clutch cover and one pressure plate lug. so that these parts may be assembled in their same relative positions, as they were balanced as an assembly. Loosen the holding screws a turn or two at a time to avoid bending rim of cover. When removing driven plate be sure to mark flywheel side. NOTE: It is advantageous to place wood or metal spacers (approximately 3/8 thick) between the clutch levers and the cover to hold the levers down Installation To Vehicle 1. Assemble driven plate and clutch cover assembly to flywheel in accordance with marking on driven plate for flywheel side. 2. Line up the driven plate assembly and the pilot bearing with a dummy shaft before tightening cover holding screws. Tighten holding screws before removing dummy shaft. 3. After transmission has been assembled, adjust pedal as described under “Clutch Pedal Adjustments.' MANUAL TRANSMISSIONS INDEX Page Linkage Adjustment ......................7-6 Replacement ..............................7-6 Alignment ..............................7-8 Page Rear Oil Seal Replacement.....................7-8 Speedometer Driven Gear Replacement 7-9 Side Cover Replacement/Repair 7-9 TRANSMISSION LINKAGE ADJUSTMENT Column Shift (Fig. 8) In cases where gearshift linkage has been disconnected or removed, proper adjustment sequence is important. 1. Install control rods to both second and third shifter lever and first and reverse shifter lever. Set both shifter levers in neutral position. 2. Align both shifter tube levers on mast jacket in the neutral position. Install 3/16” pin in holes of levers to hold levers in alignment. Position relay levers so that gearshift control lever is in neutral position. 3. Connect control rods to tube levers making sure clamps are properly adjusted so that tube levers and transmission shifter levers remain in their neutral positions while tightening. 4. Remove gauge and move selector lever through all positions to check adjustment in all positions. NOTE: If mast jacket lower dash clamp has been disturbed at its mounting on dash, its adjustment to the steering mainshaft should be checked as outlined in the procedure in Section 9 of this manual. TRANSMISSION REPLACEMENT Removal 1. Raise vehicle on hoist and drain lubricant from transmission. 2. Disconnect backing lamp switch, speedometer cable and "T.C.S." switch at transmission. 3. Remove shift lever bolts and shift levers from transmission side cover. 4. Disconnect propeller shaft from transmission as described in Section 4 of this manual. 5. Position a suitable dolly or jack under the vehicle and adjust to carry weight of transmission. 6. Support engine with an adjustable stand at the bell housing and remove engine rear mount to transmission attaching parts. 7. Remove crossmember attaching bolts and crossmember from vehicle. NOTE: Visually inspect to determine if other equipment, lines or brackets must be removed to permit removal of transmission. 8. Remove flywheel housing mounting bolts. Remove upper bolts first and install guide pins J-l 126. 9. Move the transmission assembly rearward using care to keep transmission main drive gear shift in alignment with clutch disc hub. When unit is clear of housing, remove transmission from under vehicle. CAUTION: Do not allow weight of transmission to hang on the clutch disc hub, as the disc will become distorted seriously affecting clutch operation. 10. A careful check of clutch components should be made after the transmission has been removed. If repair is necessary, refer to Clutches, Section 7 of the Chassis Service and Overhaul Manuals.not force the transmission into the clutch disc hub. Do not let the transmission hang unsupported in the splined portion of the clutch disc. 4. Install flywheel housing-to-transmission mounting bolts and washers. 5. Carefully raise the engine and transmission assembly to normally installed position. Install rear crossmembe: and rear mount attaching parts. Tighten attaching bolts and nuts to specifications. 6. Remove adjustable jack stand from under the engine and transmission. 7. Connect propeller shaft to transmission as described in "PROPELLER SHAFTS” (Section 4) of this manual. Remove transmission jack. 8. Install flywheel housing underpan. Tighten cap screws firmly. 9. Reconnect speedometer cable back-up lamp switch, and “T.C.S.” Switch at transmission. 10. Reinstall shift controls to transmission side cover. Tighten lever bolts to specifications. 11. If other equipment (exhaust pipe, support brackets, etc.) was removed, reinstall these parts. Installation 1. Apply a light coating of High Temperature Grease to the main drive gear bearing retainer and splined portion of transmission main drive gear shaft to assure free movement of clutch and transmission components during assembly. CAUTION: Do not apply an excessive amount of grease in the above areas, as under normal operation this grease would be thrown onto clutch facings resulting in clutch failure. 2. Mount transmission on dolly or jack and move into position under the vehicle. 3. Align the transmission main drive gear shaft with the clutch disc hub by rotating the transmission output shaft. Move the transmission forward, guiding the main drive gear shaft into the clutch disc splines. IMPORTANT: Avoid springing the clutch when the transmission is being installed to the engine. Do12. Refill transmission with lubricant recommended in Lubrication, Section “0” of this manual. 13. Check and if necessary, adjust clutch or transmission control linkage to achieve proper operation. TRANSMISSION ALIGNMENT In some instances where “excessive” gear whine or high gear hop out, particularly at 50 MPH and up, are encountered;and after all other probable causes have been checked, an alignment check of the transmission and clutch housing may be helpful. A special tool, on which a dial indicator is mounted, is necessary to check the transmission case rear bore alignment. This tool may be made from a new or good used clutch gear which has a good bearing surface on the crankshaft pilot end and at the front main bearing location. The splines on the clutch gear shaft and the teeth on the clutch gear should be ground off so the shaft may be rotated in a clutch disc hub without interference when assembled in the car. Weld a piece of 1/4" rod in the mainshaft pilot bore long enough to extend out the case rear bore. Assemble a good bearing on the clutch gear shaft and secure it with the clutch gear bearing snap ring. Attach a suitable dial indicator to the rod. Procedure 1. Remove the transmission from the vehicle and completely disassemble, except for the reverse idler gear. NOTE: In any case where the clutch gear pilot or pilot bearing is excessively loose or worn, the pilot bearing should be replaced before checking the transmission case rear bore alignment by the dial indicator method. 2. Carefully install the special tool with the dial indicator in the transmission case with the face of the indicator to the rear of the case and with the tracing finger contacting the l.D. of the case rear bore. Secure in place with a clutch gear bearing retainer. 3. Assemble the transmission case to the clutch housing and tighten the four transmission mounting bolts securely. NOTE: Be sure to clean off any paint or other foreign material on the mating faces of the clutch housing and transmission as any foreign material on these faces will change alignment; also, check carefully for dings or burrs on these mating surfaces and remove carefully as necessary. 4. Dial indicate the transmission case rear bore and record the indicator readings in the 12, 3, 6 and 9 o’clock positions. NOTE: It is best to start the reading at the 3, 6, 9 or 12 o'clock position closest to the point where the indicator plunger reaches its maximum outward travel. Set the dial indicator at "0" at this location and then record the 3, 6, 9 and 12 o'clock readings in rotation. 5. Install temporary slotted shims between the transmission case and the clutch housing in the quantities and at the bolt locations as necessary to bring misalignment at the transmission case rear bore to a maximum of .005" indicator reading in either the vertical or horizontal direction. EXAMPLE: If the maximum indicator reading is at 12 o'clock position, put shims on the two bottom bolts. 6. After the position and quantity of shims has been determined and recorded the transmission case may be removed. NOTE: The clutch housing should then be stamped, showing the position where shims are to be installed and the thickness of shims at each location. 7. Inspect the external clutching teeth of the clutch gear and second speed gear. Inspect the second and third speed clutch internal clutching teeth. If the teeth are worn or tapered, even slightly, the gears should be replaced. Reassemble the transmission. 8. Install the transmission assembly to the clutch housing, using the correct number of shims at the proper locations as previously determined. Shims are available by unit part number with each unit consisting of the following shims: 4-.002" shims Identification-two corners cut off. 2-.005" shims Identification-one corner cut off. 1 —.010" shims Identification-all corners square. NOTE: These special shims have a tab on one end for ease of installation. Do not slot the shims for the permanent installation. REAR OIL SEAL REPLACEMENT 1. Raise vehicle on hoist. 2. Drain lubricant from transmission. 3. Disconnect propeller shaft from transmission as described in Section 4 of this manual. 4. Pry seal out of extension or remove seal using tools J-5859 and J-2619 (fig. 9). 5. Coat outer diameter of new oil seal with sealing cement. Install new oil seal using tool J-5154. 6. Reinstall propeller shaft as described in Section 4 of this manual. 7. Check and refill transmission with lubricant specified in Section O of this manual. 8. Lower and remove vehicle from hoist.SPEEDOMETER DRIVEN GEAR REPLACEMENT Disconnect speedometer cable, remove lock plate to housing bolt and lock washer and remove lock plate. Insert screw driver in lock plate slot in fitting and pry fitting, gear and shaft from housing. Pry “0” ring from groove in fitting. Install new “0” ring in groove in fitting, coat “0” ring and driven gear shaft with transmission lubricant and insert shaft. Hold the assembly so slot in fitting is toward lock plate boss on housing and install in housing. Push fitting into housing until lock plate can be inserted in groove and attached to housing. TRANSMISSION SIDE COVER REPLACEMENT/REPAIR (Fig. 10) 1. Shift transmission into neutral detent positions. Remove attaching bolts and shift levers from shifter shafts at side cover. 2. Disconnect backing lamp and “T.C.S.” switch wiring at switches. 3. Remove side cover bolts and remove cover assembly from transmission case and allow oil to drain from case. 4. Remove both shift forks from shifter shaft assemblies. Remove both shifter shaft assemblies from cover. Seals in cover may be pried out if replacement is required because of damage. 5. Remove detent cam spring and pivot retainer “C” ring. Remove both detent cams. 6. With detent spring tang projecting up over the 2nd and 3rd shifter shaft cover opening install the first and reverse detent cam onto the detent cam pivot pin. With the detent spring tang projecting up over the first and reverse shifter shaft cover hole install the 2nd and 3rd detent cam. Fig. 10—Transmission Side Cover Assembly (3-Speed Saginaw Shown) 7. Install detent cam retaining “C” ring to pivot shaft, and hook spring into detent cam notches. 8. Install both shifter shaft assemblies in cover being careful not to damage seals. Install both shift forks to shifter shaft assemblies, lifting up on detent cam to allow forks to fully seat into position. 9. Shift shifter levers into neutral detent (center) position and slide cover into place making sure the shift forks are aligned with their respective mainshaft clutch sliding sleeves. 10. Install cover attaching bolts and tighten evenly to specified torque. Install TCS switch and connect wiring. 11. Install outer shifter levers. Tighten bolts to specifications. 12. Remove filler plug and add lubricant specified in Section 0, to level of filler plug hole. TURBO HYDRA-MATIC 350 TRANSMISSION INDEX Page General Description........................................................7-9 Maintenance and Adjustments........................................7-10 Oil Level Check ............................. 7-10 Periodic Oil Change.......................... 7-10 Manual Shift Linkage Check and Adjustment......7-11 Detent Cable Adjustment ..........................................7-12 Transmission Replacement....................... 7-12 Other Service Operations........................ 7-13 Page Turbo Hydra-Matic Diagnosis Procedure ............7-13 Sequence..................................7-13 Oil Level and Condition Check .................7-13 Manual Linkage.............................7-13 Oil Leaks.................................. 7-14 Case Porosity Repair.........................7-14 Vacuum Modulator Checks....................7-15 Transmission Shift Points .....................7-17 GENERAL DESCRIPTION The purpose of a transmission is to provide suitable gear 3-speed transmission encased in a two-piece aluminum casting ratios between the engine and rear wheels for all driving (main housing and extension). The transmission consists pri-conditions. The Turbo Hydra-Matic 350 is a fully automatic marily of a hydraulic torque converter and compound plan- DETENT CAM DETENT SPRING 2-3 SHIFT FORK SHAFT 1ST & SHIFTER SHAFT vb • ki i • CAM RETAINER RINGetary gear set. Four multiple-disc clutches, two roller clutch assemblies, and one band provide the friction elements required to obtain the desired function of the planetary gear set. The torque converter is a simple transmission that couples the engine to the planetary gears through oil and provides hydraulic torque multiplication when required. The compound planetary gear set produces three forward speeds and reverse. The hydraulic system, pressurized by a gear type pump, provides the working pressure required to operate the friction elements and automatic controls. The vacuum modulator is of the aneroid type and is used to automatically sense any change in torque input to the transmission. It transmits this signal to the pressure regulator, to the intermediate clutch accumulator valve, and to the shift valves so that all torque and shift speed requirements of the transmission are met and smooth shifts are obtained at all throttle openings and altitude conditions. The cable operated detent system is designed to ensure positive part throttle or full throttle downshifting depending on throttle position. External control connections to transmission are: Manual Linkage-To select the desired operating range. Engine Vacuum-To operate the vacuum modulator. Dentent Cable-To operate Dentent System. The Turbo Hydra-Matic 350 transmission features three forward driving ranges, which can be selected with the shift lever. Approximate gear ratios of the transmission are as follows: FIRST-2.5:1 INTERMEDIATE-1.5:1 DIRECT—1.00:1 REVERSE-2.00:1 The selector quadrant has six selector positions-P, R, N, D, L2.L1. P - PARK position positively locks the output shaft to the transmission case, by means of a locking pawl, to prevent the vehicle from rolling in either direction. This position should be selected whenever the driver leaves the vehicle. The engine may be started in Park position. R — REVERSE enables the vehicle to be operated in a reverse direction. N - NEUTRAL position enables the engine to be started ai\d run without moving the vehicle. D - DRIVE RANGE, used for all normal driving conditions and maximum economy, has three gear ratios. Detent downshifts are available for safe passing, by depressing the accelerator to the floor. Li — Li RANGE can be selected at any vehicle speed. When selected at speeds over 50 mph, the transmission will shift to second gear and remain in second until vehicle speed is reduced to approximately 50 mph (depending on axle ratio) before shifting to first gear. Li Range position prevents the transmission from shifting out of first gear. This is particularly beneficial for maintaining maximum engine braking when continuous first gear operation is desirable. L2 -L2 RANGE for congested traffic or hilly terrain. L2 Range has the same starting ratio as Drive Range, but prevents the transmission from shifting above second gear. This retains second speed acceleration when extra performance is desired, and can also be used for engine braking. L2 Range can be selected at any vehicle speed, and the transmission will shift to second gear, and remain id second until the vehicle speed or the throttle opening changed to obtain first gear operation, in the same manner as in Drive Range. MAINTENANCE AND ADJUSTMENTS OIL LEVEL CHECK thorough inspection should be made to find and correct all external oil leaks. The transmission oil level should be checked periodically as recommended in Section O. Oil should be added only when level is on or below the “ADD" mark on the dip stick with oil hot or at operating temperature. The oil level dip stick is located at the right rear of the engine compartment. Fill with oil specified in Section O. In order to check oil level accurately, the engine should be idled with the transmission oil hot and the control lever in neutral (N) position. It is important that the oil level be maintained no higher than the “FULL” mark on the transmission oil level gauge. DO NOT OVERFILL, for when the oil level is at the full mark on the dip stick, it is just slightly below the planetary gear unit. If additional oil is added, bringing the oil level above the full mark, the planetary unit will run in the oil, foaming and aerating the oil. This aerated oil carried through the various oil pressure passages (low servo, reverse servo, clutch apply, converter, etc.) may cause malfunction of the transmission assembly, resulting in cavitation noise in the converter and improper band or clutch application. Overheating might also occur. If the transmission is found consistently low on oil, a PERIODIC OIL CHANGE The transmission oil should be changed periodically as recommended in Section 0, and whenever transmission is to be removed from the vehicle for repairs. 1. Run engine for one minute in neutral prior to changing. 2. Be sure vehicle is level or raise from the rear only. 3. Remove the oil pan drain plug and allow oil to drain thoroughly into a pan or can. 4. Replace drain plug and refill with approximately two and one half quarts of oil specified in Section 0. NOTE: To refill the transmission, remove dip stick from oil filler tube and refill transmission with oil specified in Section O. Then, after shifting into all ranges at idle speed to fill all oil passages, the engine should be run at 800-1000 rpm with the transmission in Neutral until the oil warms up, then add oil as required to raise the fluid level to the full mark on the dip stick. Refill capacity is approximately 2.5 qts. (U.S. measure) (2 qts. Imperial measure)MANUAL AND CONTROL LINKAGE ADJUSTMENT Refer to Figure 1 1. The shift tube and selector lever assembly (A) must be free in the mast jacket. See Section 9 for alignment of steering column if necessary. 2. Set transmission lever in drive position. NOTE: Obtain drive position by rotating transmission lever counter-clockwise (viewed from left side) to low detent, then clockwise two detents to drive position. 3. Attach rod to lever and inner lever of shaft assembly with retainers. 4. Assemble swivel, clamp, bushing, grommet, washers and nut loosely on selector lever. 5. Attach control rod to outer lever of shaft assembly with retainer. 6. Place selector lever tang in the neutral drive gate of Selector plate assembly and insert control rod in swivel. 7. Rotate lever clockwise (viewed looking down steering column) until tang contacts drive side of neutral drive gate—tighten nut. CAUTION: Any inaccuracies in the above adjustments may result in premature failure of the transmission due to operation without controls in full detent. Such operation results in reduced oil pressure and in turn partial engagement of the affected clutches. Partial engagement of the clutches with sufficient pressure to cause apparent normal operation of the vehicle will result in failure of the clutches or other internal parts after only a few miles of operation. NOTE: When above procedure is adhered to the following conditions must be met by manual operation of the steering column shift lever. From reverse to drive position travel, the transmission detent feel must be noted and related to indicated position on dial. When in drive and reverse position, pull lever upward (toward steering wheel) and then release. It must drop back into position with no restriction. 'SNAP LOCK' 'SNAP LOCK' V VIEW VVIEW D GE 100-150 J VV1EW F J DETENT CABLE GE 100-150 GE 200-250-300-35^/DETENT CABLE ADJUSTMENT Refer to Figure 2 L-6 Engines 1. Remove air cleaner. 2. Insert screwdriver on each side of snap lock and pry up to release lock. 3. Compress locking tab and disconnect snap lock assembly from bracket. 4. Attach snap lock assembly to accelerator control lever and install retaining ring “E”. 5. Pull carburetor lever to W.O.T. position (check W.O.T. stop on carburetor). 6. With carburetor lever fixed in the W.O.T. position, grasp cable casing and pull rearward until W.O.T. stop in transmission is felt. NOTE: Do not mistake detent which must be traveled through in order to reach W.O.T. for W.O.T. stop. 7. Holding lever and cable in above position, push snap lock on cable downward until top is flush with cable. NOTE: Do not lubricate cable. 8. Install air cleaner. V-8 Engines 1. Remove air cleaner. 2. Disengage plastic snap lock on detent cable by inserting a screwdriver on each side of snap lock and pry up to release lock and compressing locking tabs. 3. Place carburetor lever in wide open throttle (W.O.T.) position (make sure carburetor lever is against W.O.T. stop). NOTE: (DETENT cable must be through detent) 4. With carburetor lever in W.O.T. position push snap lock on detent cable back into housing until top is flush with cable retainer housing. 5. Check linkage for proper operation. NOTE: Do not lubricate cable. 6. Install air cleaner. COMPONENT PART REPLACEMENT TRANSMISSION REPLACEMENT Removal 1. Place van on hoist and remove oil pan drain plug to drain oil. NOTE: If desired, the oil may be drained after transmission removal. 2. Disconnect the vacuum modulator line and the speedometer drive cable fitting at the transmission. Tie lines out of the way. 3. Disconnect manual control lever rod and detent cable from transmission. 4. Disconnect prop shaft from transmission. 5. Install suitable transmission lift equipment to jack or other lifting device and attach on transmission. 6. Disconnect engine rear mount on transmission extension, then remove the transmission support crossmember. 7. Remove converter underpan, scribe flywheel-converter relationship for assembly, then remove the flywheel-to-converter attaching bolts. 8. Support engine at the oil pan rail with a jack or other suitable brace capable of supporting the engine weight when the transmission is removed. 9. Lower the rear of the transmission slightly so that the upper transmission housing-to-engine attaching bolts can be reached using a universal socket and a long extension. Remove upper bolts. CAUTION: It is best to have an assistant observe clearance of upper engine components while the transmission rear end is being lowered. 10. Remove remainder of transmission housing-to-engine attaching bolts. 11. Remove the transmission by moving it slightly to the rear and downward, then remove from beneath the vehicle and transfer to a work bench. NOTE: Observe converter when moving the transmission rearward. If it does not move with transmission, pry it free of flywheel before proceeding. CAUTION: Keep front of transmission upward to prevent the converter from falling out. Install suitable converter holding tool after removal from the engine. Installation 1. Mount transmission on transmission lifting equipment installed on jack or other lifting device. 2. Remove converter holding tool. CAUTION: Do not permit converter to move forward after removal of holding tool. 3. Raise transmission into place at rear of engine and install transmission case to engine upper mounting bolts, then install remainder of the mounting bolts. Torque bolts to 20-30 ft. lbs. 4. Remove support from beneath engine, then raise rear of transmission to final position. 5. If scribed during removal, align scribe marks on fly wheel and converter cover. Install converter to flywheel attaching nuts and bolts. Torque to 30-35 ft. lbs. 6. Install converter underpan.7. Reinstall transmission support crossmember to transmission and frame. 8. Remove transmission lift equipment. 9. Connect propeller shaft to transmission. 10. Connect manual control lever rod and detent cable to transmission. 11. Connect vacuum modulator line, and speedometer drive cable to transmission. 12. Refill transmission through filler tube, and following the recommended procedure provided earlier in this section. 13. Check transmission for proper operation and for leakage. Check and, if necessary, adjust linkage. 14. Remove van from hoist. PARK LOCK PAWL SHAFT AND PLUG REPLACEMENT Removal 1. Place van on hoist and remove oil pan drain plug to drain oil. 2. Remove oil pan, governor cover, governor and all park lock pawl attaching parts. 3. Slide pawl towards front of case and cock on shaft. 4. Using a suitable drift rap sharply against the pawl until plug is freed from case. Care must be taken so that the pawl does not hit the cast post in case which holds the pawl return spring. 5. Remove shaft. Installation 1. Install parking pawl using a new shaft and plug. Coat plug with a suitable sealer prior to installation and stake in place. 2. Install park lock pawl attaching parts, governor, cover, and oil pan. 3. Replenish transmission fluid and remove van from hoist. OTHER SERVICE OPERATIONS Although certain operations, such as oil pan gasket or manual levers and oil seal replacement, detent cable, governor, filler pipe “0” ring, speedometer drive gear, case extension “0” ring and rear oil and yoke seal, vacuum modulator, and intermediate clutch accumulator cover service may be performed from underneath the vehicle without removing the Turbo Hydra-Matic 350; their service procedure is covered in the Overhaul portion of this Manual and is not repeated here. Refer to the Turbo Hydra-Matic 350 Section of the Overhaul portion of this Manual for all other service operations not covered here. TURBO HYDRA-MATIC 350 DIAGNOSIS PROCEDURE Accurate diagnosis of transmission problems begins with a thorough understanding of normal transmission operation. In particular, knowing which units are involved in the various speeds or shifts so that the specific units or circuits involved in the problem can be isolated and investigated further. Analytical diagnosis will protect the technician from come backs and certainly will improve owner satisfaction. An important and often overlooked aspect of diagnosis is finding out specific customer complaints. For this purpose a short ride with the customer will often prove beneficial. It may be found that the condition the customer wants corrected is standard and should not be altered. The following sequence, based on field experience, provides the desired information quickly and in most cases actually corrects the malfunction without requiring the removal of the transmission. Details of the items listed in this sequence are covered further in the text. SEQUENCE FOR TURBO HYDRA-MATIC 350 DIAGNOSIS PROCEDURE 1. Check oil level and condition. 2. Check and correct detent cable adjustment. 3. Check and correct vacuum line and fittings. 4. Check and correct manual linkage. OIL LEVEL AND CONDITION CHECK Always check the oil level before road testing. Oil must be visible on dip stick prior to operating the vehicle. Erratic shifting, pump noise, or other malfunctions can in some cases be traced to improper oil level. Oil level should be checked with the selector lever in the Park (P) position, engine running, and the vehicle on level pavement. Fluid level should be to the FULL mark with the transmission at normal operating temperature (170°-190°F.). With warm fluid (room temperature), the level should be at or slightly below the ADD mark. If oil level was low, refer to Oil Leaks. The condition of the oil is often an indication of whether the transmission should be removed from the vehicle, or to make further tests. When checking oil level, a burned smell and discoloration indicate burned clutches or band and the transmission will have to be removed. MANUAL LINKAGE Manual linkage adjustment and the associated neutral start switch are important from a safety standpoint. The neutral start switch should be adjusted so that the engine will start in the Park and Neutral positions only.With the selector lever in the Park position, the parking pawl should freely engage and prevent the vehicle from rolling. The pointer on the indicator quadrant should line up properly with the range indicators in all ranges. OIL LEAKS Before attempting to correct an oil leak, the actual source of the leak must be determined. In many cases the source of the leak can be deceiving due to “wind flow” around the engine and transmission. The suspected area should be wiped clean of all oil before inspecting for the source of the leak. Red dye is used in the transmission oil at the assembly plant and will indicate if the oil leak is from the transmission. The use of a “black light” to identify the oil at the source of leak is also helpful. Comparing the oil from the leak to that on the engine or transmission dip stick (when viewed by black light) will determine the source of the leak. Oil leaks around the engine and transmission are generally carried toward the rear of the car by the air stream. For example, a transmission “oil filler tube to case leak” will sometimes appear as a leak at the rear of the transmission. In determining the source of an oil leak it is most helpful to keep the engine running. POSSIBLE POINTS OF OIL LEAKS 1. TRANSMISSION OIL PAN LEAK a. Attaching bolts not correctly torqued. b. Improperly installed or damaged pan gasket. c. Oil pan gasket mounting face not flat. 2. REAR EXTENSION LEAK a. Attaching bolts not correctly torqued. b. Rear seal assembly—damaged or improperly installed. c. Gasket seal-(extension to case) damaged or improperly installed. d. Porous casting. 3. CASE LEAK a. Filler pipe “0” ring seal damaged or missing; mis-position of filler pipe bracket to engine - “loading” one side of “0” ring. b. Modulator asssemby “O” ring seal-damages or improperly installed. c. Governor cover, and "0” ring seal—damaged, loose: case face leak. d. Speedo gear- “0” ring damaged. e. Manual shaft seal-damaged, improperly installed. f. Line pressure tap plug-stripped, shy sealer compound. g. Parking pawl shaft cup plug-damaged, improperly installed. h. Vent pipe (refer to Item 5). i. Porous case. 4. FRONT END LEAK a. Front seal-damaged (check converter neck for nicks, etc., also for pump bushing moved forward). b. Pump attaching bolts and seals-damaged. missing, bolts loose. c. Converter-leak in weld. d. Pump ”0” ring seal-damaged. (Also check pump groove and case bore.) e. Porous casting (pump or case). 5. OIL COMES OUT VENT PIPE a. Transmission over-filled. b. Water in oil. c. Pump to case gasket mispositioned. d. Foreign material between pump and case, or between pump cover and body. e. Case -porous, pump face improperly machined. f. Pump-shy of stock on mounting faces, porous casting. CASE POROSITY—REPAIR Transmission leaks caused by aluminum case porosity have been successfully repaired with the transmission in the vehicle by using the following procedure. 1. Road test and bring the transmission to operating temperature. 2. Raise the car and. with the engine running, locate the source of the leak. Check for leaks in all operating positions. NOTE: The use of a mirror will be helpful in finding leaks. 3. Shut off engine and thoroughly clean area with a solvent and air dry. 4. Using the instruction of the manufacturer, mix a sufficient amount of epoxy cement, part -1360016. to make the repair. 5. While the transmission is still hot. apply the epoxy to the area, making certain that the area is fully covered.6. Allow epoxy cement to dry for three hours and retest for leaks, as outlined in Steps I and 2. OIL PRESSURE CHECK With Car Stationary Transmission oil pressure gauge and engine tachometer should be connected and the oil pressures should check as follows: 1. Pressures (PSl) indicated below are at 0 output speed with the vacuum modulator tube disconnected and with engine at 1200 rpm. 2. Pressures (PSI) indicated below are at 0 output speed with the vacuum modulator tube connected, and with sufficient engine speed to maintain l(-> inches Hg absolute manifold pressure. Approximate Altitude of Check (I't. Above Sea Level) Drive Neutral Park L-6 and V-8 LI orL2 Reverse 0 139 139 250 2000 139 139 235 4000 139 139 221 6000 132 134 203 8000 125 129 195 10000 1 17 123 184 12000 110 118 173 14000* 104 113 163 Approximate Altitude of Check (Ft. Above Sea Level) Absolute Manifold Pressure (“Hg) Drive Neutral Park L-6 and V-8 LI or L2 Reverse 0 16 76 94 120 2000 16 79 96 124 4000 16 82 98 129 6000 16 85 loo 133 8000 16 87 102 137 10000 16 90 103 141 12000 16 92 105 144 14000 16 94 107 148 VACUUM MODULATOR ASSEMBLY 1. Vacuum Diaphragm Leak Check Insert a pipe cleaner into the vacuum connector pipe as far as possible and check for the presence of transmission oil. If oil is found, replace the modulator. NOTE: Gasoline or water vapor may settle in the vacuum side of the modulator. If this is found without the presence of oil, the modulator should not be changed. 2. Atmospheric Leak Check Apply a liberal coating of soap bubble solution to the vacuum connector pipe sear>\ the crimped upper to lower housing seam (Fig. 4). Using a short piece of rubber tubing, apply air pressure to the vacuum pipe by blowing into the tube and observe for leak bubbles. If bubbles appear, replace the modulator. NOTE: Do not use any method other than human lung power for applying air pressure, as pressures over 6 psi may damage the modulator.3. Bellows Comparison Check Using a comparison gauge, as shown in Fig. 5. compare the load of a known good Turbo Hydra-Matic 350 modulator with the assembly in question. A. Install the modulator that is known to be acceptable on either end of the gauge. B. Install the modulator in question on the opposite end ot the gauge. C. Holding the modulators in a horizontal position, bring them together under pressure until either modulator sleeve end just touches the line in the center of the gauge. The gap between the opposite modulator sleeve end and the gauge line should then be l/16" or less. If the distance is greater than this amount, the modulator in question should be replaced. Sleeve Alignment Check Roll the main body of the modulator on a flat surface and observe the sleeve for concentricity to the can. If the sleeve is concentric and the plunger is free, the modulator is acceptable. Once the modulator assembly passes all of the above tests, it is an acceptable part and should be re-used.TURBO HYDRA-MATIC 350 SHIFT POINTS _G100 150 Engine L-6 (250) 3.40 Axle F78-14 Tire L-6 (250) 3.73 Axle F78-14 Tire Throttle Position Closed Throttle Detent Touch Wide Open Throttle 1-2 up 6-10 30-40 31-40 2-1 dn 10-5 8-1 34-21 2-3 up 18-30 52-60 57-66 3-2 dn 28-16 46-36 64-56 1-2 up 5-9 28-36 28-37 2-1 dn 9-5 7-1 31-19 2-3 up 17-27 47-55 52-60 3-2 dn 25-15 42-33 59-51 Engine V-8 (307) 3.07 Axle F78-14 Tire V-8 (307) 3.40 Axle F78-14 Tire Throttle Position Closed Throttle Detent Touch Wide Open Throttle 1-2 up 6-11 25-38 35-46 2-1 dn 11-5 9-1 38-25 2-3 up 19-24 53-63 67-75 3-2 dn 23-17 44-32 74-64 1 -2 up 6-10 30-40 35-44 2-1 dn 10-5 8-1 38-27 2-3 up 18-30 52-60 61-69 3-2 dn 27-16 46-36 68-59 Engine V-8 (350) LS9 3.07 Axle F78-14 Tire V-8 (350) LS9 3.40 Axle F78-14 Tire Throttle Position Closed Throttle Detent Touch Wide Open Throttle 1-2 up 6-11 25-38 35-46 2-1 dn 11-5 9-1 38-25 2-3 up 19-24 53-63 67-75 3-2 dn 23-17 44-32 74-64 1-2 up 6-10 30-40 35-44 2-1 dn 10-5 8-1 38-27 2-3 up 18-30 52-60 61-69 3-2 dn 27-16 46-36 68-59 G200-250 Engine L-6 (250) 3.73 Axle G78-15 Tire L-6 (250) 3.73 Axle H78-15 Tire Throttle Position Closed Throttle Detent Touch Wide Open Throttle 1-2 up 6-9 29-38 29-38 2-1 dn 10-5 7-1 32-20 2-3 up 17-28 49-57 54-62 3-2 dn 26-16 44-35 61-53 1-2 up 6-9 29-39 30-39 2-1 dn 10-5 8-1 33-21 2-3 up 18-29 50-59 56-64 3-2 dn 27-16 45-35 63-54 Engine L-6 (250) 4.11 Axle G78-15 Tire L-6 (250) 4.11 Axle H78-15 Tire Throttle Position Closed Throttle Detent Touch Wide Open Throttle 1-2 up 5-8 26-34 26-35 2-1 dn 9-4 7-1 29-18 2-3 up 16-26 45-52 49-57 3-2 dn 24-14 40-31 56-48 1-2 up 5-8 27-35 27-36 2-1 dn 9-4 7-1 30-19 2-3 up 16-26 46-53 51-58 3-2 dn 24-14 41-32 57-49 Engine L-6 (250) 3.07 Axle G78-15 Tire L-6 (250) 3.07 Axle H78-15 Tire Throttle Position Closed Throttle Detent Touch Wide Open Throttle 1-2 up 7-11 26-40 32-44 2-1 dn 12-6 9-1 37-24 2-3 up 19-25 56-66 66-76 3-2 dn 24-18 46-33 74-63 1-2 up 7-11 27-41 32-45 2-1 dn 12-6 9-1 37-25 2-3 up 20-26 57-68 67-77 3-2 dn 25-18 47-34 76-65 Engine V-8 (350) 3.07 Axle G78-15 Tire V-8 (350) 3.07 Axle H78-15 Tire Throttle Position Closed Throttle Detent Touch Wide Open Throttle 1-2 up 7-11 26-40 37-48 2-1 dn 11-6 9-1 40-26 2-3 up 19-25 56-66 69-79 3-2 dn 24-18 46-33 77-67 1 -2 up 7-11 27-41 38-49 2-1 dn 12-6 9-1 41-27 2-3 up 20-26 57-68 71-81 3-2 dn 24-18 47-34 79-69 Engine V-8 (350) 3.40 Axle G78-15 Tire V-8 (350) 3.40 Axle H78-15 Tire Throttle Position Closed Throttle Detent Touch Wide Open Throttle 1-2 up 6-10 31-42 37-46 2-1 dn 10-5 8-1 40-28 2-3 up 19-31 54-63 64-72 3-2 dn 29-17 48-38 70-62 1 -2 up 6-10 32-43 38-47 2-1 dn 11-5 8-1 41-29 2-3 up 19-32 55-64 65-74 3-2 dn 29-17 49-39 72-63 G300-350 Engine L-6 (250) 4.57 Axle 8.75-16.5 Tire V-8 (350) 4.10 Axle 8.75-16.5 Tire Throttle Position Closed Throttle Detent Touch Wide Open Throttle 1-2 up 5-8 25-33 25-33 2-1 dn 2-3 up 3-2 dn 1 -2 up 2-1 dn 2-3 up 8-4 15-25 23-14 5-9 9-4 17-28 7-1 43-50 38-30 28-37 7-1 48-56 28-18 48-54 54-46 33-41 35-25 57-64 3-2 dn 25-15 42-33 63-55SPECIAL TOOLS I n 1. J-1126 Guide Pins 2. J-2619 Slide Hammer 3. J-5154 Rear Extension Seal Installer 4. J-5824 Clutch Pilot Tool 5. J-5859 Seal Remover Fig. 1ST—Clutch and Manual Transmission—Special ToolsII ¥ « u 6 7 8 4 5 9 10 19 19A 20 fl 'V Jig you 12 13 14 U 15 o 16 23 ■ j*— 41 22 21 1. J-8763 Transmission Holding Fixture 15. J-21424-7 Stator Shaft Front Bushing (Modified for THM 350) Installer 2. J-3289-14 Transmission Holding Fixture 16. J-23062-5 Input Ring Gear Bushing Base Installer 3. J-23103 Propeller Shaft Yoke Seal 17. J-5154 or Extension Housing Seal Remover and Installer J-21426 Installer 4. J-8092 Driver Handle 18. J-21359 Pump Seal Installer 5. J-21465-13 Driver Handle Extension 19. J-6585 Slide Hammer Weights 6. J-23062-3 Sun Gear and Reaction Carrier 19a. J-9539 Slide Hammer Screw Bushing 20. J-21885 2-3 Accumulator Piston 7. J-23062-7 Output Shaft Bushing Installer Compressing Tool 8. J-21465-15 Stator Shaft Front Bushing 21. J-23071 Intermediate Band Apply Pin Remover Gauge 9. J-23329 Direct Clutch Bushing Installer 22. J-23069 1-2 Accumulator Cover 10. J-9534-01 Output Shaft Bushing Remover Remover and Installer 11. J-23327 Clutch Spring Compressor 23. J-2619 Slide Hammer (Used with 12. J-23062-2 Stator Shaft Rear Bushing J-2619-4 Adapter and Installer J-21465 15 Stator Shaft Front 13. J-23062-1 Case Bushing Installer Bushing Remover 14. J-21424-9 Extension Housing Bushing Installer SECTION 8 FUEL TANK AND EXHAUST CONTENTS OF THIS SECTION Page Page Fuel Tanks and Attachments..................... 8-1 Exhaust Systems ..............................8-7 Fuel Lines ................................... 8-3 Special Tools .................................8-10 Evaporation Control System (ECS) Components...... 8-4 FUEL TANKS AND ATTACHMENTS INDEX Page Page General Description............................ 8-1 Fuel Tanks................................. 8-2 Component Part Replacement.................... 8-1 Metering Units (Gauge Sending Unit) ............ 8-2 Draining Fuel Tank.......................... 8-1 Cleaning Fuel Systems........................ 8-3 Fuel Cap, Fuel Lines & Fuel Tank—The fuel tank, cap and lines should be inspected for road damage which could cause leakage. Inspect fuel cap for correct sealing ability and indications of physical damage. Replace any damaged or malfunctioning parts. GENERAL DESCRIPTION All fuel tanks are equipped with a pressure-vacuum filler neck cap. The fuel pickup pipe is built integrally with the tank gauge unit, located at the top of the tank. A large area, fine-mesh screen is located on the bottom of the fuel pickup pipe. This screen is designed to prevent the entrance of dirt or water into the fuel feed system, and operates with a self-cleaning action. Frame mounted tanks consist of an upper and lower half, each with a wide flange. The two tank sections are seam welded at the flange around the entire tank to assure leakproof construction. Exceptional stiffness is secured by the combination of the welded flanges and depressed ribs in both upper and lower tank sections. COMPONENT PART REPLACEMENT Draining Fuel Tank If the fuel tank does not incorporate a drain plug, it will be necessary to siphon fuel from the tank when draining is needed. The following procedure is recommended. 1. Obtain approximately 10 feet of 3/8” l.D. hose and cut a flap-type slit 18” from one end. Make this cut in the direction of the shorter end of hose (See Figure 1). 2. Insert a small pipe nipple (slightly larger O.D. than the hose l.D.) into the opposite end of hose. 3. Insert the nipple end of siphon hose into the fuel tank filler neck with the natural curl of the hose pointed down. Insert until the hose is heard to strike the bottom of the tank. 4. With the opposite end of the hose in a suitable container, insert the air hose in the downward direction in the flap-type slit and trigger the flow of fuel. —FUEL FLOWCAUTION: Before draining be sure that the fuel tank gauge unit wire or battery negative cable is disconnected. Always drain gasoline from complete fuel system including carburetor, fuel pump, all fuel lines and fuel tank if the vehicle is to be stored for any appreciable length of time. This precaution will prevent accumulation of gum formation and resultant poor engine performance. FUEL TANK (FIG. 2) Removal and Installation 1. Drain tank. 2. Raise vehicle on hoist. 3. Unclamp filler neck and vent tube hose. 4. Unclamp gauge unit hose at frame end. 5. For 10 series, disconnect all evaporation control attaching hoses (Fig. 6). 6. Support tank and remove support strap(s). 7. Lower tank until gauge unit wiring can be removed. 8. Remove fuel tank. 9. Install in the reverse order. 10. Lower vehicle and remove from hoist. GAUGE UNIT (FIG. 3) Replacement 1. Remove fuel tank as previously outlined. 2. Unlock gauge cam ring using Tool J-23346 and remove Fig. 3—Fuel Tank Gauge Components gauge unit from tank. (Fig. 4). 3. Install gauge unit using reverse of removal procedure. GAS CAP IDENTIFICATION The easiest way to identify the correct filler neck gas cap for vehicles with the Evaporation Control System (ECS), is to check for the words “pressure-vacuum” on the inside of the cap. Also check for proper gas cap fit. If gas cap replacement is required, always check vehicle identification and order by part number.5. Lovate tank away from heat, flame or other source of ignition. Remove fuel gauge tank unit and inspect condition of filter, if filter is contaminated, a new filter should be installed upon reassembly. 6. Complete draining of tank by rocking it and allowing fuel to run out of tank unit hole. 7. Purge fuel tank with steam or running hot water for at least five minutes. Pour water out of tank unit hole. (Rock tank to assure complete removal of water.) IMPORTANT: This procedure will not remove fuel vapor. Do not attempt any repair on tank or filler neck where heat or flame is required. 8. Disconnect inlet fuel line at pump and use air pressure to clean fuel line and fuel return line (if equipped). Apply air pressure in the direction fuel normally flows through line. 9. Use low air pressure to clean pipes on tank unit. 10. Install new filter on fuel tank unit if required. Install fuel tank unit with new gasket into tank and install tank. Connect tank unit wires and all fuel lines except pump to carburetor line. (See REMOVAL OF TANK for proper procedure). 11. Connect a hose to fuel line at carburetor; insert other end of hose into a one gallon fuel can. 12. Connect battery cable. MAKE SURE IGNITION C'OIL PRIMARY WIRE (+ TERMINAL) IS DISCONNECTED. 13. Put six gallons of clean fuel in tank and operate starter to pump two quarts of fuel into fuel can. This will purge fuel pump. 14. Remove hose and connect fuel line to carburetor. 15. Connect coil primary wire. FUEL LINES Fig. 4—Fuel Tank Gauge Removal CLEANING FUEL SYSTEMS If trouble is due to contaminated fuel or foreign material that has been put into the tank, it can usually be cleaned. If tank is rusted internally, it should be replaced. 1. Disconnect battery and ignition coil primary wire (+ wire on ignition coil). 2. Drain fuel tank. (See DRAINING FUEL TANK.) 3. Remove fuel tank. (See REMOVAL OF TANK.) 4. Remove fuel inlet filter at carburetor and inspect for contamination. If filter is plugged, replace. (Leave fuel line disconnected.)FUEL LINE SERVICE (FIG. 5) The fuel lines should be inspected occasionally for leaks, kinks or dents. If evidence of dirt is found in the carburetor, fuel pump or on a disassembly, the lines should be disconnected and blown out. Check the fuel strainer in the tank for damage. When replacing a metal fuel line, only seamless steel tubing is to be used. Also, the ends of the tubing which join at a connector, must be double-flared using commercially available double flaring tools. All fuel lines must be properly routed and retained. EVAPORATION CONTROL SYSTEM NOTE: Also refer to the "Emission Control Systems” Booklet for required maintenance and warranty information. INDEX Page Page Service Information ..........................8-4 Separator ....................................8-4 Component Part Replacement ...................8-5 Fuel Tank ....................................8-4 Canister and/or Canister Filter ................8-5 Canister Purge Valve ..........................8-7 SERVICE INFORMATION Evaporation Control System Fuel 81 Vapor Lines—All fuel and vapor lines and hoses must be in good condition with no signs of leakage. Any damaged or deteriorated lines or hoses must be replaced. All lines should be inspected for proper connections and correct routing. Evaporation Control System Canister—Check canister for cracks or damage when replacing the canister filter. Replace parts as necessary. Filter—ECS Canister—Remove canister and replace filter every 24,000 miles or 24 months (whichever occurs first) in lower section of canister. The Components of this System are: FUEL TANK FILLER NECK GAS CAP The fuel tank filler cap has a new two-step removal and installation procedure plus a pressure-vacuum relief valve. It is equipped with a double set of locking tangs. To remove: • Rotate cap one-half turn counterclockwise to clear the first set of tangs from the slots inside the filler neck. • This will allow any residual pressure to escape. • Pull the cap outward and rotate one-quarter turn counterclockwise to clear second set of tangs. Then remove the cap. • To install, reverse this procedure. NOTE: If this cap requires a replacement, only a cap with these same features should be used. Failure to use the correct cap can result in a serious malfunction of the system. Correct replacement caps may be obtained from your Chevrolet dealer. GASOLINE TANK The gasoline tanks incorporate special extended filler necks and vents and also external hose connections. LIQUID VAPOR SEPARATOR The separator mounts to the right or left hand side of the gasoline tank. If service is necessary, the entire assembly must be replaced. CANISTER The canister is mounted on the left side of the engine compartment. A filter is mounted in the bottom of the canister. It is to be replaced according to the recommended maintenance schedule noted above and in the Emission Control Systems Booklet. HOSES (KEEP RESTRICTOR CLEAN) When replacing any evaporative emission hose, use only replacement hose marked “EVAP.” No other type of hose is to be used. A restrictor located inside the vapor vent hose, adjacent to the canister should be replaced whenever the hose is replaced. The restrictor should be checked and not plugged with dirt.COMPONENT PART REPLACEMENT (Fig. 6-10) (Refer to Illustrations) CANISTER AND/OR CANISTER FILTER Removal 1. Raise vehicle on hoist. 2. Note installed position of hoses on canister. 3. Disconnect hoses from top of canister. 4. Loosen clamps and remove canister. 5. If only replacing filter, loosen clamps and remove from bottom of canister and pull out filter. Inspection 1. Check hoses for cracks and hose connection openings. Assure that they are open. Check Restrictor in vent line. 2. Check operation of purge valve by applying vacuum to the valve. A good valve will hold vacuum. Installation 1. Install new filter. 2. Install canister and tighten clamp bolts. 3. Attach hoses to proper position on canister. Fig. 6-Purge Valve SPRING DIAPHRAGM RETAINER iffAN CANISTER-! HOSE HARNESS : ASSEMBLY! STRAP HEATER HOSES HOSE -CLAMP CLAMP' V-8 (10 SERIES) FRONT VENT PIPE- CANISTER VIEW B RESTRICTOR VIEW C RESTRICTORFig. 9—Fuel Tank Vent Pipes\/ENT LINES AND/OR SEPARATOR (TYPICAL) Removal 1. Raise vehicle on hoist. 2. If removing separator, remove spare tire and access cover. 3. Remove clamp securing pipe. 4. Remove hose clamps and remove pipe. Installation 1. Install pipe to hose and install hose clamps. Check connections to assure that hose and clamp seal connection. NOTE: If replacing hose, use only replacement hose marked EVAP. 2. Install clamp retaining pipe. 3. Reinstall separator access cover and spare tire (if removed). 4. Lower vehicle and remove from hoist. CANISTER PURGE VALVE (FIG. 6) Disassembly 1. Disconnect lines at valve. 2. Snap off valve cap (Slowly remove cap as diaphragm is under spring tension). Remove diaphragm, spring retainer and spring. 3. Replace parts as necessary. Check orifice openings. Assembly 1. Install spring, spring retainer, diaphragm and cap. 2. Reconnect hoses. EXHAUST SYSTEM IMPORTANT: Make sure that exhaust system components have at least 3/4 inch clearance from the floor pan to avoid possible overheating of the floor pan and possible damage to the passenger compartment carpets. SERVICE INFORMATION When installing a new exhaust pipe, muffler or tailpipe, on any model, care should be taken to have the correct alignment and relationship of the components to each other. Particular care should be given to the installation of the exhaust pipe and crossover pipe assembly on V-8 engine single exhaust systems. Incorrectly assembled parts of the exhaust system are frequently the cause of annoying noises and rattles due to improper clearances or obstructions to the normal flow of gases. Leave all clamp bolts and muffler strap bolts loose until all parts are properly aligned and then tighten, working from front to rear. NOTE: When reinstalling exhaust pipe to manifold, always use new packings and nuts. Be sure to clean manifold stud threads with a wire brush before installing the new nuts. COMPONENT PART REPLACEMENT (Fig. 11-13) EXHAUST PIPE Removal 1. Raise vehicle on hoist. 2. Disconnect exhaust pipe from engine. 3. Disconnect exhaust pipe clamps at hanger and muffler. 4. Remove exhaust pipe. Installation 1. Install exhaust pipe into muffler. 2. Using new gaskets (V-8), install pipe to engine. 3. Install clamps at hanger and muffler. 4. Check pipe alignment assuring that there is no interference. Torque clamps to specifications. 5. Lower vehicle and remove from hoist. and MUFFLER AND TAILPIPE Removal 1. Remove exhaust pipe as previously outlined. 2. Remove clamps retaining muffler and tailpipe remove from vehicle. Installation 1. Install exhaust pipe to engine as previously outlined. 2. Install muffler onto exhaust pipe. 3. Install tailpipe onto muffler and attach tailpipe to frame. 4. Install all clamps; check for interference, realigning as necessary, and torque clamps to specifications.FUEL TANK AND EXHAUST 8-8 > lbRQUE AT 15 FT. LBS. V VIEW A SUPPORT ASSEMBLY V VIEW B TORQUE AT 17 FT. LBS. y vview c ■\ r V view d_y V view e TORQUE AT 15 FT. LBS. VIEW FFUEL TANK ASSEMBLY FUEL TANK ASSEMBLY MUFFLER AND TAIL PIPE ASSEMBLY BODY SIDE ASSEMBLY HANGER ASSEMBLY MUFFLER AND TAIL PIPE ASSEMBLY MUFFLER AND TAIL PIPE ASSEMBLY HANGER SUPPORT ASSEMBLY MUFFLER AND TAIL PIPE ASSEMBLY HANGER ASSEMBLY HANGER ASSEMBLY HANGER ASSEMBLY CLAMP HANGER ASSEMBLY MUFFLER AND TAIL PIPE ASSEMBLY HANGER ' ASSEMBLY CLAMP VIEW D Fig. 12—Muffler & Tailpipe & Attachments V\\Fig. 13—Special Tools 1. J-23346 Fuel Tank Gauge SpannerSTEERING CONTENTS OF THIS SECTION Page Standard Steering ............................9- 1 Power Steering ...............................9-17 Special Tools .................................9-24 STANDARD STEERING INDEX Page General Description ........................................................9-1 Maintenance And Adjustments ......................................9-1 Lubrication ..................................................................9-1 Adjustments ................................................................9-1 Steering Gear............................................................9-1 Steering Gear High Point Centering ....................9-3 Steering Wheel Alignment ....................................9-3 Steering Column Lower Bearing Adjustment . . 9-3 Shift Tube Adjustment ............................................9-3 Component Replacement and Repairs............................9-4 Steering Wheel ............................................................9-4 Page Steering Column Upper Bearing..................9-4 Steering Gear ...............................9-5 Pitman Shaft Seal .............................9-6 Steering Column ........................................................9-6 Tilt Steering Column ....................................................9-9 Steering Linkage ............................................................9-15 Tie Rod ....................................................................9-15 Relay Rod ..................................................................9-15 Idler Arm ..................................................................9-16 Pitman Arm................................................................9-16 Steering Arm ............................................................9-16 GENERAL DESCRIPTION • The steering gear is of the recirculating ball type. This gear provides for ease of handling by transmitting forces from the wormshaft to the pitmashaft through the use of ball bearings. The steering column is connected to the steering gear by a flexible coupling. This coupling incorporates a capturing strap which is designed to prevent column-to-coupling deflection from exceeding the length of the coupling alignment pins. The tilt steering column is new for Chevy Van but is basically the same as the 1971 C & K series truck column. The one-piece steering shaft is flanged at the lower end for attachment to the new flexible coupling. The 1972 Chevy Van incorporates “Forward Steering” whereas the steering linkage is located forward of the front crossmember. Steering effort is transmitted to left and right hand adjustable tie rod through a relay rod. The relay rod is connected to an idler arm on the right and to the pitman arm on the left. MAINTENANCE AND ADJUSTMENTS LUBRICATION replaced or the gear is overhauled, the gear housing should be Steering Linkage Every 6000 miles or four months, whichever occurs First, the steering linkage should be lubricated with water resistant EP chassis lubricant which meets General Motors Specification GM 6031M or its equivalent. Steering Gear The steering gear is factory-filled with steering gear • lubricant. Seasonal change of this lubricant should not be performed and the housing should not be drained—no lubrication is required for the life of the steering gear. Every 36,000 miles, the gear should be inspected for seal leakage (actual solid grease—not just oily Film). If a seal is refilled with No. 1051052 (13 oz. container) Steering Gear Lubricant which meets GM Specification GM 4673M, or its equivalent. NOTE: Do not use EP Chassis Lube, which meets GM Specification GM 6031M, to lubricate the gear. DO NOT OVER-FILL the gear housing. ADJUSTMENTS Steering Gear Before any adjustments are made to the steering gear in an attempt to correct such conditions as shimmy, loose or hard steering and road shocks, a careful check should be made offront end alignment, shock absorbers, wheel balance and tire pressure for possible cause. Correct adjustment of steering gear is very important. While there are but two adjustments to be made, the following procedure must be followed step-by-step in the order given. 1. Disconnect the battery ground cable. 2. Remove the pitman arm to pitman shaft nut. Mark the relationship of the arm to the shaft and then remove the pitman arm using Tool J-6632 or J-5504 (fig. 1). 3. Loosen the steering gear adjuster plug lock nut and back the adjuster plug off 1/4 turn. Loosen the steering gear lash adjuster screw lock nut and back the lash adjuster screw off 1 1/2 turns. Re-tighten the lash adjuster screw lock nut (fig. 2). 4. Remove the horn button cap. 5. Turn the steering wheel gently from stop to stop, carefully counting the total number of turns. Then turn the wheel back exactly half-way, to center position. CAUTION: Do not turn the steering wheel hard against the stops with the pitman arm disconnected as damage to the ball guides may result. 6. Loosen the pitman shaft lash adjuster screw locknut and turn the adjuster screw a few turns in a counter-clockwise direction (fig. 2). This relieves the load imposed on the worm bearings by the close meshing of the ball nut and sector teeth. 7. Using an Inch Pound Torque Wrench and Socket on the steering wheel nut, measure the torque required to keep the wheel in motion. If the torque does not lie within the limits given in the Specifications Section, worm bearing preload adjustment is necessary. 8. To adjust the worm bearings, loosen the worm bearing adjuster locknut and turn the worm bearing adjuster (fig. 2) until there is no perceptible end play in the worm. Check the torque at the steering wheel, readjusting if necessary. Tighten the locknut and recheck the torque. NOTE: If the gear feels "lumpy" after adjusting the worm bearings, there is probable bearing damage due to severe impact or improper adjustment—the gear must be disassembled for replacement of damaged parts. 9. After proper adjustment of worm bearing preload has been obtained, sector lash adjustment must be made. a. Check that all steering gear and side cover bolts are properly torqued. b. Turn the steering wheel from stop to stop, carefully counting the total number of turns. Turn the wheel back exactly half-way to center postion. c. Turn the lash adjuster screw clockwise to take out all lash in the steering gear ball nut and sector teeth; tighten the lock nut. d. Check the torque at the steering wheel, taking the highest reading as the wheel is turned through center position. Readjust if necessary to obtain proper torque (see Specifications Section at rear of this manual). NOTE: If maximum specification is exceeded, turn lash adjuster screw counter-clockwise, then come up on adjustment by turning the adjuster in a clockwise motion. 10. Reassemble the pitman arm to pitman shaft, lining up the marks made at disassembly; torque the nut to specifications. CAUTION: The pitman arm to pitman shaft fastener is an important attaching part in that it could affect the performance of vital components and systems, and/or could result in major repair expense. It must be replaced with one of the same part number or with an equivalent part if replacement becomes necessary. Do not use a replacement part of lesser quality or substitute design. Torque values must be used as specified during reassembly to assure proper retention of this part. 11. Install the horn button cap and connect the battery ground cable.STEERING 9-3 Steering Gear High Point Centering 1. Set front wheels in straight ahead position. This can be checked by driving vehicle a short distance on a flat surface to determine steering wheel position at which vehicle follows a straight path. . With front wheels set straight ahead, check position of the flat on the worm shaft and flexible coupling. This flat should be at the top side of the shaft at the 12 o’clock position and lined up with the flat in the coupling lower clamp. . If the gear has been moved off high point when setting wheels in straight ahead position, loosen adjusting sleeve clamps on both left and right hand tie rods, then turn both sleeves an equal number of turns in the same direction to bring gear back on high point. CAUTION: Turning the sleeves an unequal number of turns or in different directions will disturb the toe-in setting of the wheels. The tie rod sleeve clamps must be positioned between the locating protrusions at each end of the sleeve. The clamp and sleeve openings must be aligned and facing forward (fig. 26). CAUTION: The tie rod adjusting sleeve clamp fasteners are important attaching parts in that they could affect the performance of vital components and systems, and/or could result in major repair expense. They must be replaced with one of the same part number or with an equivalent part if replacement becomes necessary. Do not use a replacement part of lesser quality or substitute design. Torque values must be used as specified during reassembly to assure proper retention of this part. 4. Readjust toe-in as outlined in Section 3 (if necessary). Steering Wheel Alignment NOTE: Check steering gear for high point centering before checking steering wheel alignment. 1. Set wheels in a straight ahead position by driving the vehicle a short distance. 2. Check the steering wheel position; if off more than one inch from horizontal (fig. 3), remove the steering wheel (see “Steering Wheel-Removal”) and reposition. CAUTION: The steering wheel to steering shaft fastener is an important attaching part in that it could affect the performance of vital components and systems, and/or could result in major repair expense. It must be replaced with one of the same part number or with an equivalent part if replacement becomes necessary. Do not use a replacement part of lesser quality or substitute design. Torque values must be used as specified during reassembly to assure proper retention of this part. Fig. 3—Steering Wheel Alignment Steering Column Lower Bearing Adjustment 1. Loosen clamp on steering shaft. 2. Adjust clamp to allow steering shaft end play indicated in Figure 4. 3. Tighten clamp bolt to specified torque. Shifter Tube Adjustment 3-Speed Transmission 1. Loosen adjusting ring attaching screws and clamp bolt. 2. Rotate adjusting ring to give .005" end play between adjusting ring and first and reverse shifter lever (fig. 5). 3. Tighten attaching screws and clamp bolt. Automatic Transmission 1. Place the shift tube lever in “neutral.” 2. Loosen adjusting ring clamp screws and rotate the shift tube adjusting ring to obtain .33" to .36" clearance between the shift tube lever and adjusting ring (fig. 6). 3. Tighten the adjusting ring clamp screws to 70 in. lbs. Fig. 4-Steering Column Lower Bearing AdjustmentFig. 5 - Shift Tube Adjustment - 3 Speed Manual Fig. 6 - Shift Tube Adjustment - Automatic Transmission COMPONENT REPLACEMENT AND REPAIRS STEERING WHEEL Removal 1. Disconnect battery ground cable. 2. Remove horn button, receiving cup, belleville spring and bushing and mark steering wheel to steering shaft relationship. 3. Remove steering shaft nut and washer. 4. Use Tool J-2927 to remove wheel (fig. 7). It may be necessary to tap lightly on the bolt head of the tool with a hammer as it is turned down, to loosen tight steering wheels. Installation CAUTION: Directional signal control assembly must be in neutral position when assembling steering wheel to prevent damage to cancelling cam and control assembly. 1. With front wheels in the straight ahead position place steering wheel on steering shaft and align. 2. Tap wheel gently into place and secure with washer and nut. CAUTION: The steering wheel to steering shaft fastener is an important attaching part in that it could affect the performance of vital components and systems, and/or could result in major repair expense. It must be replaced with one of the same part number or with an equivalent part if replacement becomes necessary. Do not use a replacement part of lesser quality or substitute design. Torque values must be used as specified during reassembly to assure proper retention of this part. 3. Install belleville spring, receiving cup, bushings and attaching screws. 4. Install horn button assembly. 5. Connect battery ground cable. STEERING COLUMN UPPER BEARING Removal 1. Remove steering wheel as outlined in this section. 2. Remove directional signal cancelling cam. 3. Pry out upper bearing. Installation 1. Replace all component parts in reverse order of removal making sure that directional signal switch is in neutral position before installing steering wheel. CAUTION: The steering wheel to steering shaft fastener is an important attaching part in that it could affect the performance of vital components and systems, and/or could result in major repair expense. It must be replaced with one of the same part number or with an equivalent part if replacement becomes necessary. Do not use a replacement part of lesser quality or substitute design. Torque values must be used as specified during reassembly to assure proper retention of this part. Fig. 7 — Steering Wheel Removal.FLEXIBLE COUPLING (Fig. 8) Removal 1. Remove the steering shaft flange to flexible coupling bolts. 2. Loosen the steering shaft preload spring clamp. 3. Loosen the flexible coupling clamp bolt. 4. Remove the coupling from the steering gear wormshaft, by carefully moving the shaft to gain the necessary clearance. STEERING GEAR Removal 1. Disconnect the battery ground cable. 2. Set the wheels in a straight ahead position (wormshaft flat will be at 12 o’clock). 3. Remove the steering shaft flange to flexible coupling bolts. 4. Remove the pitman arm to pitman shaft nut. Mark the relationship of the arm to the shaft and then remove the arm from the shaft using Tool J-6632 or J-5504 (fig. 1). 5. Remove the steering gear to frame mounting bolts and remove the steering gear and flexible coupling as an assembly. 6. Remove the flexible coupling clamp bolt and remove the coupling from the wormshaft. It may be necessary to tap the coupling with a soft mallet to remove it from the splined wormshaft. nstallation CAUTION: The pitman arm to pitman shaft nut, steering gear to frame bolts and steering coupling to steering shaft and wormshaft fastener are important attaching parts in that they could affect the performance of vital components and systems, and/or could result in major repair expense. They must be replaced with one of the same part number or with an equivalent part if replacement becomes necessary. Do not use a replacement part of lesser quality or substitute design. Torque values must be used as specified during reassembly to assure proper retention of this part. 1. Install the new coupling onto the wormshaft, aligning the flat on the shaft with the flat in the coupling. Push the coupling onto the shaft until the coupling reinforcement bottoms on the shaft. Install the coupling clamp bolt and torque to specifications (fig. 8). NOTE: The coupling bolt must pass through the shaft undercut. 2. When reinstalling the steering gear assembly, determine the correct mid-position of the wormshaft as follows: a. Turn the shaft all the way through its travel, counting the number of turns. b. Turn the shaft back one-half of the total number of turns. The gear should now be on high point (wormshaft flat at 12 o’clock). 3. Reinstall the gear and coupling assembly, guiding the alignment pins to the proper position on the steering shaft flange (large pin to large opening—small pin to small opening). NOTE: A new coupling incorporates plastic spacers on the alignment pins which aid in centering the pins in the flange openings and also serve to maintain the correct coupling to flange dimension (fig. 9). Be sure the spacers are fully installed on the pins. 4. Install the gear to frame bolts and torque to specifications. 5. Install the steering shaft flange to coupling bolts and torque to specifications. 6. Fashion a hook of heavy gauge wire and pull the plastic spacers away from the locking pins (fig. 9). CAUTION: Under no circumstances should the vehicle be driven until the plastic spacers have been removed from the alignment pins. NOTE: Check that the flexible coupling to steering shaft flange dimension of .250" to .375" has been maintained. The coupling pins should be centered in the flange slots. CAPTURING STRAP COUPLING TO STEERING SHAFT FLANGE BOLTS PLASTIC SPACER7. Reassemble the pitman arm to the pitman shaft, lining up the marks made at disassembly; torque the nut to specifications. 8. Connect the battery ground cable. PITMAN SHAFT SEAL If pitman shaft seal leakage occurs, the steering gear must be completely removed from the vehicle to perform the replacement procedure. Replacement 1. Remove the steering gear as outlined under “Steering Gear-Removal”. 2. Loosen the lash adjuster locknut and turn the lash adjuster a few turns counter-clockwise. 3. Pull side cover and pitman shaft from gear housing as a unit. Do not separate side cover from pitman shaft. 4. Pry the pitman shaft seal from gear housing using a screw driver being careful not to damage housing bore. CAUTION: Inspect the lubricant in the gear for contamination. If the lubricant is contaminated in any way, the gear must be completely overhauled as outlined in the 1972 Overhaul Manual—Section 9. 5. Coat the new seal with gear lubricant and install in the housing using a suitable size socket. 6. Pack as much new Steering Gear Lubricant (meeting GM Specification GM4673M) into the ends of the housing as it will hold without falling out the pitman shaft opening. 7. Place a piece of tape over the splined end of the pitman shaft and then lower the pitman shaft and side cover into the housing. NOTE: Before the pitman shaft is all the way into the housing, more lubricant can be added in the center cavity. DO NOT OVER-FILL the gear housing. 8. Install a new side cover gasket, align the side cover on the gear housing, install and torque the side cover screws. 9. Reinstall the steering gear assembly as outlined under “Steering Gear-Installation”. CAUTION: The pitman arm to pitman shaft nut, steering gear to frame bolts and steering coupling to steering shaft and wormshaft fastener are important attaching parts in that they could affect the performance of vital components and systems, and/or could result in major repair expense. They must be replaced with one of the same part number or with an equivalent part if replacement becomes necessary. Do not use a replacement part of lesser quality or substitute design. Torque values must be used as specified during reassembly to assure proper retention of this part. STEERING COLUMN Removal l. Disconnect the battery ground cable. 2. Disconnect the transmission shifter rods at the column shift levers. 3. Remove the steering shaft flange to flexible coupling bolts. 4. From inside the vehicle, remove the screws from the toe pan seal and slide the seal up the column. 5. Remove the steering wheel as outlined under “Steering Wheel-Removal,” and reinstall the shaft nut and washer. 6. All Columns-Disconnect the directional signal wiring harness. Automatic Columns- Disconnect the conductor tube (for transmission indicator) at the instrument panel (fig. 10). 7. Remove the cap screws from the column support bracket at the dash panel. 8. Carefully lower and then withdraw the column assembly, rotating so that the shift levers clear the toe pan opening. Disassembly (Fig. 12) 1. Remove the steering wheel nut and flat washer and then slide the steering shaft assembly from the lower end of the column. 2. Remove the lower bearing preload spring and clamp from the steering shaft. 3. Drive out the shift lever pivot pin and remove the shift lever. 4. Remove the directional signal cancelling cam. Remove the directional signal switch lever. 5. Remove the column wiring harness cover. 6. Remove the directional signal switch screws. 7. Rotate the directional signal switch housing counterclockwise and remove the housing from the column. NOTE: The housing and switch cannot be fully removed from the column until the shift lever housing is removed. 8. Remove the plastic thrust washer assembly and then remove the shift lever housing from the column. 9. Separate the directional signal switch, switch control support assembly, directional signal housing and shift lever housing assemblies. W10. Press the steering shaft upper bearing out of the switch contact support. 11. Remove the shift lever housing seat and bushing from the upper end of the column. 12. Remove the bolt and screws from the adjusting ring clamp and remove the clamp, adjusting ring and lower bearing. Press the lower bearing out of the adjusting ring. 13. 3-Speed Columns-Remove 1 st-reverse shift lever and lever spacer. Automatic Columns-Remove the selector plate clamping ring screws. 14. Place the column upright on the floor, supporting it with two pieces of wood. Place a block of wood on the upper end of the shift tube. Press down on the shift lever with foot while tapping on the wood block to withdraw the tube from the column jacket. CAUTION: In some tolerance stack-up cases it may be necessary to use a press. Be careful not to damage the tube or jacket. Fig. 11 — Tilt Column Shift Indicator Light Assembly 15. Remove the felt seal from the shift tube. 16. Remove the toe pan seal from the column jacket. NOTE: In the following assembly sequence, use a general purpose lithium soap grease for lubricating those components so indicated. 1. Steering Shaft Nut 2. Flat Washer 3. Turn Signal Cancelling Cam 4. Turn Signal Switch Screw 5. Turn Signal Switch 6. Steering Shaft Upper Bearing 7. Switch Contact Support 8. Turn Signal Housing 9. Turn Signal Switch Lever Screw 10. Turn Signal Switch Lever 11. Rubber Ring 12. Plastic Thrust Washer 13. Shift Lever Housing 14. Shift Lever Pin 15. Shift Lever 16. Steering Shaft 17. Shift Lever Housing Bushing 24. Nut and Lockwasher 18. Bushing Seat 25. Shift Tube Assembly 19. Steering Column Jacket 26. Shift Lever Spacer 20. Toe Pan Seal 27. 1 st-Reverse Shift Lever 21. Adjusting Ring Clamp 28. Adjusting Ring 22. Adjusting Ring Clamp Screws 29. Shaft Lower Bearing 23. Adjusting Ring Clamp Bolt 30- Lower Bearing Preload Spring 31. Preload Spring Clamp Fig. 12 - Steering Column (3-Speed Manual) - ExplodeCLUTCH AND BRAKE PEDAL SUPPORT PROTRUSION DASH BRACKET INDEX SLOT TOE PAN SEAL VIEW A Fig. 13 — Steering Column Mounting 1. Install the toe pan seal onto the column jacket. 2. Lubricate all bearing surfaces on the shift tube. 3. Place the felt seal onto the shift tube (next to spring) and then place the shift tube in the jacket. 4. 3—Speed Columns—Temporarily install spacer, 1 st-reverse shift lever and lower adjusting ring. Place a block of wood on top of the adjusting ring and tap until the shift tube bottoms. Remove adjusting ring, shift lever and spacer. NOTE: The shift tube spring retainer must be bottomed against the jacket stops. Automatic Columns-Align the three holes in the selector plate with the three holes in the jacket, position the clamping ring and install the three screws. 5. 3-Speed Columns-Lubricate and install the spacer and 1 st-reverse shift lever (tang of lever towards top of column). 6. Install lower bearing in the adjusting ring and then install the adjusting ring, clamp and screws. 7. Install the shift lever housing seat and bushing to upper end of housing. 8. Thread directional signal switch wiring harness through the switch and shift lever housings, lubricate the inner diameter of the shift housing, and then place the shift lever housing onto the upper end of the column. 9. Install the switch housing plastic washer assembly. Press the upper bearing into the switch contact support. 10. Install the directional signal switch housing, contact support, bearing and switch and torque the switch screws to 25 in. lbs. 11. Install the column wiring harness cover. 12. Install the directional signal and gearshift levers. 13. Adjust the shift tube as outlined under “Shifter Tube Adjustment.” 14. Loosely install the lower bearing preload spring and clamp onto the steering shaft. 15. Slide the steering shaft assembly up through the column assembly. Install the directional signal cancelling cam, steering shaft nut and flat washer. Installation—Mandatory Sequence 1. Adjust the column lower bearing preload by positioning the spring and clamp to maintain the dimension as shown in Figure 4. 2. Install the plastic spacers onto the flexible coupling alignment pins. 3. From inside the vehicle, carefully insert the lower end of the column through the toe pan opening, guiding the steering shaft flange onto the flexible coupling. Install and torque the flange to coupling bolts. CAUTION: The steering coupling to steering shaft fastener is an important attaching part in that it could affect the performance of vital components and systems, and/or could result in major repair expense. It must be replaced with one of the same part number or with an equivalent part if replacement becomes necessary. Do not use a replacement part of lesser quality or substitute design. Torque values must be used as specified during reassembly to assure proper retention of this part.4. Locate the index slot in the column jacket with the protrusion on the clutch and brake pedal support (fig. 13). 5. Loosely install the column dash bracket and screws. 6. Push the column down until the steering shaft flange bottoms on the plastic spacers on the flexible coupling and then torque the dash bracket screws. 7• Remove the plastic spacer from the alignment pins using a wire hook (fig. 9). Check the rag joint to steering shaft flange clearance (.250” to .325”), if not within specifications, the dash bracket screws must be loosened and the column raised or lowered as required. Retorque the bracket screws. CAUTION: The alignment pin plastic spacers must be removed before the vehicle can be driven. 8. Push the toe pan seal to the toe pan, install and torque the mounting screws. 9. All Columns-Connect the directional signal switch wiring harness. Automatic Columns-Connect the conductor tube (for transmission indicator) to the instrument panel. 10. Install the steering wheel as outlined under “Steering Wheel- Installation.” 11. Connect the transmission linkage. 12. Connect the battery ground cable. TILT COLUMN The upper bearings on the tilt column are spun into the bearing housing assembly. If the bearings indicate need of replacement, the entire bearing housing must be replaced. See “Tilt Steering Column -Bearing Housing Assembly Removal (Column in Vehicle)” for the correct replacement procedure. Tilt Columns Lower Bearing Removal 1. Pry off the lower bearing reinforcement clip and remove the clip and reinforcement. 2. Remove the lower bearing and adapter as an assembly. Press the bearing out of the adapter. Installation 1. Press the new bearing into the adapter and install the lower bearing and adapter onto the lower end of the steering shaft and place in position in the lower end of the column, aligning the wide tab of the adapter with the open slot in the column. 2. Place the lower bearing reinforcement over the end of the column (open position of reinforcement to open slot in column) and install the reinforcement clip. Make sure all three tabs of the clip are fully engaged with the slots in the reinforcement and column. Tilt Column Bearing Housing Assembly Removal (Column in Vehicle)—Fig. 14 2. Remove the steering wheel as outlined on Page 9-4. 3. Remove the directional signal switch. 4. Column Shift Models - Using a suitable size punch, drive out the shift lever pivot pin and remove the shift lever. 5. Install the tilt release lever and place the column in the full “up” position. Remove the tilt lever spring and retainer using a screwdriver that just fits into the slot opening. Insert the screwdriver into the slot, push in approximately 3/16”, rotate clockwise approximately 1/8 turn until the retainer ears align with the grooves in the housing and remove the retainer and spring. 6. Remove the steering shaft bearing locknut using socket J-22599. Remove the upper bearing race seat and race. 7. Remove the two bearing housing pivot pins using Tool J-21854. 8. Pull up on the tilt release lever (to disengage the lock shoes) and remove the bearing housing. If the bearing housing is being replaced or it is necessary to disassemble the bearing housing, proceed as follows: a. Press the upper and lower bearings out of the housing. b. Using Puller J-5822 and Slide Hammer J-2619, pull the bearing races from the housing. c. Remove the tilt release lever. d. Drive out the shoe release pivot pin using Tool J-22635 or a suitable punch. Remove the lever spring and remove the wedge. e. Using a suitable size punch, drive out the lock shoe retaining pin. Remove the shoes and shoe springs. If the upper steering shaft, lower steering shaft, or centering spheres are being removed, proceed as follows: 9. Remove the steering shaft assembly through the upper end of the column. If it is necessary to disassemble the shaft, proceed as follows: a. To remove the lower steering shaft first disconnect the shaft at the pot joint coupling clamp. b. Turn the upper shaft 90° to the lower shaft and slide the upper shaft and centering spheres from the lower shaft. c. Rotate the centering spheres 90° and remove the centering spheres and preload spring from the upper shaft. If the bearing housing support is being replaced, proceed as follows: 10. Remove the four bearing housing support screws and remove the support. Assembly 1. Assemble the steering shaft as follows: a. Lubricate and assemble the centering spheres and preload spring. b. Install the spheres into the upper (short) shaft and rotate 90°. c. Install the lower shaft 90° to the upper shaft and over the centering spheres. Slowly straighten the shafts while compressing the preload spring.INSTRU. PANEL OPENING COVER HOUSING ASSY. SPRING RELEASE PIN RELEASE SHOE RELEASE-— BEARING ASSY.—^ — CUP — JACKET DASH SEAL RETAINER DASH SEAL RETAINER --<§> LEVER ADAPTER BEARING PROTECTOR WIRE2. Install the shaft assembly into the housing from the upper end. 3. Install the lower shaft to the pot joint coupling clamp. Install the coupling clamp bolt and torque to specifications. NOTE: The coupling bolt must pass through the shaft undercut. 4. Assemble the bearing housing as follows: a. Press the new upper and lower bearing races into the bearing housing. b. Lubricate and install the bearings into the bearing races. c. Place the lock shoe springs in position in the housing. Install each shoe in place and compress the spring until a suitable size straight punch can be used to hold the shoe in position (it may be necessary to acquire assistance to install the shoes. Once the shoes are in place, drive in the shoe retaining pin. d. Install the shoe release lever and drive in the pivot pin. e. Install the tilt release lever. f. Lubricate the shoes and release lever. 5. Install the bearing housing assembly to the support. Hold the tilt release lever in the “up” position until the shoes have fully engaged the support. Lubricate and install the bearing housing pivot pins. Press the pins in flush with the housing. 6. Place the housing in the full “up” position and then install tilt spring and retainer (tapered end of spring first). Push into the housing approximately 3/16” and rotate counter clockwise 1/8 turn. 7. Lubricate and install the upper bearing race, race seat and locknut. Tighten the locknut (using Socket J-22599) to remove the lash and then carefully further tighten 1/16 to 1/8 of a turn (column must be in straight ahead position). 8. Remove the tilt release lever. 9. Install the directional signal switch. 10. Column Shift Models — Install the shift lever and pivot pin. 11. Install the steering wheel as outlined on Page 94. 12. Check electrical and mechanical functioning of column. NOTE: Torque values must be used as specified during reassembly, see the Specification Section. Procedure below to be followed if the column is to be removed from the vehicle. Disassembly-Tilt Column (Fig. 14) 1. Place the column in a bench vise using Holding Fixtures J-22573 (fig. 15). CAUTION: Clamping the column directly in a vise, could result in a damaged column. 2. Remove the directional signal switch as outlined under “Directional Signal Switch-Removal”. 3. Remove the lower steering shaft and pot joint assembly and lower bearing and adapter assembly as outlined under “Lower Bearing and Adapter-Removal”.STEERING 9-12 Fig. 16—Removing Tilt Spring and Retainer 4. Column Shift Models - Using a suitable size punch, drive out the shift lever pivot pin and remove the shift lever. 5. Install the tilt release lever and place the column in the full “up” position. Remove the tilt lever spring and retainer using a screw driver that just tits into the slot opening (fig. 16). Insert the screw driver into the slot, push in approximately 3/16”, rotate clockwise approximately 1/8 turn until the retainer ears align with the grooves in the housing and remove the retainer and spring. 6. Remove the steering shaft bearing locknut using socket J-22599. Remove the upper bearing race seat and race. 7. Remove the two bearing housing pivot pins using Tool J-21854 (fig. 7). 8. Pull up on the tilt release lever (to disengage the lock shoes) and remove the bearing housing. If it is necessary to disassemble the bearing housing, proceed as follows: a. Press the upper and lower bearings out of the housing. b. Using Puller J-5822 and Slide Hammer J-2619 pull the bearing races from the housing (tig. 18). Fig. 18—Removing Bearing Race c. Remove the tilt release lever. d. Drive out the shoe release lever pivot pin using Tool J-22635 or a suitable punch (fig. 19). Remove the lever spring and remove the wedge. e. Using a suitable size punch, drive out the lock shoe retaining pin. Remove the shoes and shoe springs. 9. Remove the steering shaft assembly through the upper end of the column. If it is necessary to disassemble the shaft proceed as follows: a. Turn the upper shaft 90° to the lower shaft and slide the upper shaft and centering spheres from the lower shaft. b. Rotate the centering spheres 90° and remove the centering spheres and preload spring from the upper shaft. 10. Remove the four bearing housing support screws and remove the support. Column Shift Models - If the shift tube index plate must be removed, remove the two retaining screws and remove the plate. STEERING SHAFT BEARING LOCKNUT TILT LEVER SPRING RETAINER1/16” 45° CHAMFER REMOVE DOTTED PORTION Fig. 20—Removing Shift Tube Retaining Ring 11. Remove the shift tube retaining ring with a screw driver (fig. 20). Remove the thrust washer. 12. Remove the neutral-safety or back-up lamp switch screws and remove the switch. 13. REWORK SHIFT TUBE REMOVING TOOL J-22551 by removing 1/2” from the pilot end of the tool (fig. 21). This allows the shift tube to be pushed further out of the housing and will not affect the use of the tool on passenger car columns. 14. Remove the shift tube assembly using Tool J-22551 (fig. 22). Insert the hooked end of the tool into the notch in the shift tube just below the shift lever housing key. Pilot the sleeve over the threaded end of the tool and into the upper end of the shift tube. Force the shift tube out of the housing by turning the nut onto the tool. If the shift tube is not completely free when the nut is bottomed on the threads, complete the removal by hand. Fig. 21—Revised Shift Tube Removing Tool J-22551 CAUTION: Do Not hammer or pull on the shift tube during removal. On column shift models, guide the lower shift lever through the slotted opening in the column to prevent damage to the tube or column. 15. Remove the lock plate by sliding out of the column notches, tipping the plate downward toward the housing (to compress the wave washer) and then removing as shown in Figure 23. Remove the wave washer. 16. Remove the shift lever housing. 17. Column Shift Models - Remove the shift lever spring by winding the spring up with pliers. 18. If necessary, remove the dash panel seal, mounting plate and the instrument panel seal from the column jacket. HOOK END OF TOOL SLOT IN SHIFT TUBELOCK PLATE Fig. 23—Removing Lock Plate Assembly Fig. 24—Installing Shift Pin Tube Assembly—Tilt Columns NOTE: When lubricating components during the following installation sequence, use a general purpose lithium soap grease. 1. Install the dash panel seal, mounting plate and the instrument panel seal on the column. 2. Column Shift Models - Press a new shift lever spring into the shift lever housing. 3. Slide the shift lever housing over the upper end of the column. 4. Place the wave washer and lock plate in position. Work the lock plate into the notches by tipping the plate toward the housing (compressing the wave washer) at the open side of the column. Lubricate the lock plate and upper end of the shift tube. 5. Carefully install the shift tube into the lower end of the column (make sure the foam seal is at the lower end of the shift tube). Align the key way in the tube with the key in the shift lever housing and complete installation of the shift tube using Tool J-22549 (fig. 24). The shift lever housing key must bottom in the shift tube slot to be fully installed. Remove Tool J-22549 from the column. Lubricate and push foam seal in flush with column housing. CAUTION: Do Not hammer or force the tube when installing in the column. 6. Pull up on the shift lever housing (to compress the wave washer) and install the thrust washer and retaining ring. Be sure the ring is seated in both slots of the shift tube. 7. Lubricate the l.D. of the bearing housing support and install the support, aligning the bolt holes in the support with the bolt holes in the lock plate. Install the four support screws and torque to 45 in. lbs. 8. Assemble the steering shaft as follows: a. Lubricate and assemble the centering spheres and preload spring. b. Install the spheres into the upper (short) shaft and rotate 90°. c. Install the lower shaft 90° to the upper shaft and over the centering spheres. Slowly straighten the shafts while compressing the preload spring. 9. Install the shaft assembly into the housing from the upper end. 10. Install the lower bearing and adapter, bearing reinforcement, wire clip, pot joint coupling and lower shaft as described under “Lower Bearing Installation”. 11. Assemble the bearing housing as follows: a. Press the new upper and lower bearing races into the bearing housing. b. Lubricate and install the bearings into the bearing races. c. Place the lock shoe springs in position in the housing. Install each shoe in place and compress the spring until a suitable size straight punch can be used to hold the shoes in position (it may be necessary to acquire assistance to install the shoes). Once the shoes are in place, drive in the shoe retaining pin. d. Install the shoe release lever and drive in the pivot pin. e. Install the tilt release lever. f. Lubricate the shoes and release lever. 12. Install the bearing housing assembly to the support. Hold the tilt release lever in the “up” position until the shoes nave fully engaged the support. Lubricate and install the bearing housing pivot pins. Press the pins in flush with the housing. 13. Place the housing in the full “up” position and then install tilt spring and retainer (tapered end of spring first). Push into the housing approximately 3/16” and rotate counter clockwise 1/8 turn. 14. Lubricate and install the upper bearing upper race, race seat and locknut. Tighten the locknut (using Socket J-22599) to remove the lash and then further tighten 1/16 to 1/8 of a turn (column must be in straight-ahead position). 15. Remove the tilt release lever.16. Install the directional signal switch as outlined under “Directional Signal Switch-Installation”. 17. Column Shift Models - Install the shift lever and pivot pin. 18. Install the neutral-safety or back-up lamp switch. 19. Remove the column from the bench vise. Column Installation—Mandatory Sequence (See Page 8) STEERING LINKAGE (Fig. 26) CAUTION All steering linkage fasteners are important attaching parts in that they could affect the performance of vital components and systems, and/ or could result in major repair expense. They must be replaced with parts of the same part numbers or with equivalent parts if replacement becomes necessary. Do not use replacement parts of lesser quality or substitute design. Torque values must be used as specified during reassembly to assure proper retention of these parts. Tie Rod NOTE Tie rod adjuster components often become rusted in service. In such cases, it is recommended that if the torque required to remove the nut from the bolt after breakaway exceeds 7 pound-feet, discard the nuts and bolts. Apply penetrating oil between the clamp and tube and rotate the clamps until they move freely. Install new bolts and nuts having the same part number to assure proper clamping at the specified nut torque. Removal 1. Place vehicle on hoist. 2. Remove cotter pins from ball studs and remove castellated nuts. 3. To remove outer ball stud, tap on steering arm at tie rod end with a hammer while using a heavy hammer or similar tool as a backing (fig. 15). 4. Remove inner ball stud from relay rod using same procedure as described in Step 3. 5. To remove tie rod ends from tie rod, loosen clamp bolts and unscrew end assemblies. Installation 1. If the tie rod ends were removed, lubricate the tie rod threads with EP Chassis lube and install ends on tie rod making sure both ends are threaded an equal distance from the tie rod. 2. Make sure that threads on ball studs and in ball stud nuts are perfectly clean and smooth. Check condition of ball stud seals; replace if necessary. NOTE: If threads are not clean and smooth, ball studs may turn in tie rod ends when attempting to tighten nut. 3. Install ball studs in steering arms and relay rod. 4. Install ball stud nut, tighten and install new cotter pins; see Specifications Section at rear of manual. Lubricate tie rod ends. 5. Remove vehicle from hoist. 6. Adjust toe-in as described in Section 3. CAUTION: Before locking clamp bolts on the rods, make sure that tie rod ends are in alignment with their ball studs (each ball joint is in the center of its travel). If the tie rod is not in alignment with the studs, binding will result. The slit in the tie rod must be in alignment with the slot in the clamp. The sleeve clamps must be positioned between the locating protrusions at each end of the sleeve. Relay Rod Removal 1. Place vehicle on hoist. 2. Remove inner ends of the tie rods from relay rod as described under “Tie Rod-Removal.” 3. Remove the cotter pins from the pitman and idler arm ball studs at the relay rod. Remove the castellated nuts. 4. Remove the relay rod from the pitman and idler arms by tapping on the relay rod ball stud bosses with a hammer, while using a heavy hammer as a backing (fig. 27). 5. Remove the relay rod from the vehicle. Installation 1. Make sure that threads on the ball studs and in the ball stud nuts are perfectly clean and smooth. Check condition of ball stud seals; replace if necessary.Fig. 27—Ball Stud Removal (Typical) NOTE: If threads are not clean and smooth, ball studs may turn in sockets when attempting to tighten nut. 2. Install the relay rod to the idler arm and pitman arm ball studs, making certain the seals are in place. Install and torque the nut and then install the cotter pin (see Specifications Section for specific instructions). 3. Install the tie rods to the relay rod as previously described under “Tie Rod-Installation.” Lubricate the tie rod ends. 4. Remove the vehicle from the hoist. 5. Adjust toe-in (see Section 3) and align steering wheel as described previously in this section under Steer-Wheel Alignment and High Point Centering. Idler Arm Removal 1. Place vehicle on a hoist. 2. Remove the cotter pin and castellated nut from ball stud at the relay rod. Remove the ball stud from the relay rod by tapping on the relay rod boss with a hammer, while using a heavy hammer as a backing (fig. 27). 3. Remove the idler arm to frame bolt and remove the idler arm assembly. Installation 1. Postion the idler arm on the frame and install the mounting bolts (special plain washers under bolt heads); torque the nuts to specifications. 2. Make sure that the threads on the ball stud and in the ball stud nut are perfectly clean and smooth. Check condition of ball stud seal; replace if necessary. NOTE: If threads are not clean and smooth, ball stud may turn in the socket when attempting to tighten nut. 3. Install the idler arm ball stud in the relay rod, making certain the seal is positioned properly; install the nut and cotter pin as outlined in the Specifications section at the rear of this manual. 4. Remove the vehicle from the hoist. Pitman Arm Removal 1. Place vehicle on a hoist. 2. Remove the cotter pin and castellated nut from ball stud at the relay rod. Remove the ball stud from the relay rod by tapping on the relay rod boss with a hammer, while using a heavy hammer as a backing (fig. 27). 3. Remove the pitman arm to pitman shaft nut. Mark relationship of the arm to the shaft and then remove the pitman arm using Tool J-6632 or J-5504 (fig. 10). Installation 1. Install the pitman arm on the pitman shaft, lining up the marks made upon removal. Install and torque the nut. 2. Make sure that the threads on the ball stud and in the ball stud nut are perfectly clean and smooth. Check condition of ball stud seal; replace if necessary. NOTE: If threads are not clean and smooth, ball stud may turn in the socket when attempting to tighten nut. 3. Install the pitman arm ball stud to the relay rod, making certain the seal is positioned properly; install the nut and cotter pin as outlined in the Specifications Section at the rear of this manual. 4. Remove the vehicle from the hoist. Steering Arms If, through collision or other damage, it becomes necessary to remove and replace either steering arm, proceed as follows: Removal 1. Place vehicle on hoist. 2. Remove tie rod from steering arm as outlined in this section. 3. Remove front wheel, hub and brake drum as a unit by removing hub cap and dust cap, cotter pin from spindle nut and the spindle nut. Pull assembly toward outside of vehicle. If removal is difficult, it may be necessary to back off brake adjustment to increase brake shoe-to-drum clearance; see Hydraulic Brake Adjustment, Sec. 5. 4. With wheel and drum assembly removed, steering arm retaining bolt heads are accessible and removal of steering arm from vehicle may be accomplished by removing retaining nuts. Installation 1. Place steering arm in position on vehicle and install retaining bolts. Note that longer bolt is installed in forward hole. 2. Install nuts and torque to specifications. 3. Pack wheel bearings using a high quality wheel bearing lubricant. Install bearings and wheel-hub-brake drum assembly removed previously. 4. Install keyed washer and spindle nut. Proceed as outlined under “Front Wheel Bearings-Adjust” in Section 3. 5. Install tie rod stud in steering arm. Be sure that the dust cover is in place on ball stud. 6. Install castellated nut on ball stud, tighten to specifications and install cotter pin (see Specifications Section). 7. Remove vehicle from hoist. 8. Following directions given in Section 3 to check cornering wheel relationship and toe-in; correct as required.STEERING 9-17 POWER STEERING Page General Description...................u......9-17 Maintenance and Adjustments..................9-17 Adjustments..............................9-17 Power Steering Gear......................9-17 Pump Belt Tension.......................9-18 Fluid Level ..............................9-18 Page Bleeding Hydraulic System..................9-18 Hydraulic System Checks ...................9-18 Component Replacement and Repairs...........9-19 Power Steering Gear........................9-19 Power Steering Pump.......................9-20 Power Steering Hoses.......................9-20 GENERAL DESCRIPTION The powering steering gear is similar to other power steering gears in general design and is overhauled in a like manner. The gear incorporates the recirculating ball system in which steel balls act as a rolling thread between the steering wormshaft and rack-piston. The rack-piston nut is geared to the sector of the pitman shaft. The valve is contained in the gear housing thus eliminating the need for separately mounted valve and cylinder assemblies. Variable ratio steering is faster nearer the corners, requiring fewer turns of the steering wheel to move the front wheels from stop to stop, while steering effort is not increased. It also provides more precise control and better response in maneuvering, particularly in sharp rapid turns and in parking. Variable ratio steering is accomplished by a pitman shaft sector incorporating a short tooth on either side of a long center tooth, rather than a sector with three teeth of equal length as in the constant ratio gear (fig. 28). Companion changes are also made in the rack-piston teeth. Hydraulic pressure is provided by an engine-driven vane-type pump which is bracket mounted to the left side of the Fig. 28-Pitman Shaft Sector Teeth engine. Pressure is delivered from the pump through two hoses to the variable ratio steering gear. MAINTENANCE AND ADJUSTMENTS ADJUSTMENTS Power Steering Gear The over-center adjustment (Fig. 29) is the only power steering gear adjustment which can be made on the car. However, in order to make this adjustment, it is also necessary to check the combined ball and thrust bearing preload. 1. Remove the pitman shaft nut. Mark the relation of the pitman arm to the pitman shaft. Disconnect the pitman arm from the pitman shaft using Puller Tool J-6632 (fig- •)• Loosen the pitman shaft adjusting screw locknut and thread the adjusting screw out to the limit of its travel through the side cover. Disconnect the battery ground cable. Remove the horn button. Turn the steering wheel through its full travel, then locate the wheel at its center of travel. 6. 7. 2. 3. 4. 5. 9. Check the combined ball and thrust bearing preload with an inch-pound torque wrench on the steering shaft nut by rotating through the center of travel (approximately 1/4 turn in each direction). Note the highest reading. Tighten the pitman shaft adjusting screw and check torque at steering shaft nut until over-center preload and total steering gear preload falls within specifications. Refer to torque specifications at rear of manual for correct torque values. Install horn button and connect the battery ground cable. Connect the pitman arm to the pitman shaft, lining up the marks made at removal. CAUTION: The pitman arm to pitman shaft fastener is an important attaching part in that it could affect the performance of vital components and systems, and/or could result in major repair expense. It must be replaced with one of the same part PITMAN SHAFT SECTOR RACK PISTON CONSTANT RATIO VARIABLE RATIOFig. 29—Over-Center Adjustment number or with an equivalent part if replacement becomes necessary. Do not use a replacement part of lesser quality or substitute design. Torque values must be used as specified during reassembly to assure proper retention of this part. Pump Belt Tension '"V 1. Loosen pivot bolt and pump brace adjusting nuts. CAUTION: Do not move pump by prying against reservoir or by pulling on filler neck. 2. Move pump, with belt in place until belt is tensioned to specifications as indicated by Tool J-23600 (fig. 30). 3. Tighten pump brace adjusting nut. Then tighten pivot bolt nut. Fig. 30—Checking Belt Tension with J-23600 5. Raise front end of vehicle so that wheels are off the ground. 6. Increase engine speed to approximately 1500 rpm. 7. Turn the wheels (off ground) right and left, lightly contacting the wheel stops. 8. Add oil if necessary. 9. Lower the vehicle and turn wheels right and left on the ground. 10. Check oil level and refill as required. 11. If oil is extremely foamy, allow vehicle to stand a few minutes with engine off and repeat above procedure. a. Check belt tightness and check for a bent or loose pulley. (Pulley should not wobble with engine running.) b. Check to make sure hoses are not touching any other parts of the truck, particularly sheet metal. FLUID LEVEL 1. Check oil level in the reservoir by checking the dip stick when oil is at operating temperature. On models equipped with remote reservoir, the oil level should be maintained approximately 1/2 to 1 inch from top with wheels in full left turn position. 2. Fill, if necessary, to proper level with GM Power Steering Fluid or equivalent. If this is not available, automatic transmission fluid bearing the mark Dexron® may be used. BLEEDING HYDRAULIC SYSTEM " 1. Fill oil reservoir to proper level and let _oil remain undisturbed for at least two minutes. 2. Start engine and run only for about two seconds. 3. Add oil if necessary. 4. Repeat above procedure until oil level remains constant after running engine. c. Check oil level, filling to proper level if necessary, following operations 1 through 10. This step and Step “D” are extremely important as low oil level and/or air in the oil are the most frequent causes of objectional pump noise. the presence of air in the oil. Air will show a milky appearing oil. If air is present, attempt system as described in operations 1 I, If it becomes obvious that the pump after a few trials, proceed as outlined ic System Checks. CHECKS The following procedure outlines methods to identify and isolate power steering hydraulic circuit difficulties. This test is divided into two parts. Test number one provides means of determining whether power steering system hydraulic parts are actually faulty. If test number one results in readings indi-Fig. 31—Checking Power Steering Pressures eating faulty hydraulic operation, test number two will identify the faulty part. Before performing hydraulic circuit test, carefully check belt tension and condition of driving pulley. Test Number One—Oil Circuit Open Engine must be at normal operating temperature. Inflate front tires to correct pressure. All tests are made with engine idling, so adjust engine idle speed to correct specifications listed in Section 6 and proceed as follows: a. With engine not running, disconnect flexible pressure line from pump and install Tool J-5176 as shown in Figure 31. Gauge must be between shut-off valve and pump. Shut-off valve must be open. b. Remove filler cap from pump reservoir and check fluid level. Fill pump reservoir to full mark on dip stick. Start engine and, holding steering wheel against stop, check connections at Tool J-5176 for leakage. Bleed system as outlined under Maintenance and Adjustments. Insert thermometer (Tool J-5421) in reservoir filler opening. Move steering wheel from stop to stop several times until thermometer indicates that hydraulic fluid in reservoir has reached temperature of 150° to 170°. CAUTION: To prevent scrubbing flat spots on tires, do not turn steering wheel more than five times without rolling vehicle to change tire-to-floor contact area. c. Hold steering wheel against a stop momentarily and read pressure gauge. If the maximum pressure is below specifications, a faulty hydraulic circuit is indicated. To determine which part is faulty, proceed with test number two. Test Number Two—Oil Circuit Closed a. Slowly turn shut-off valve on J-5176 to close position and read pressure indicated on gauge. Quickly reopen valve to avoid pump damage. If indicated pressure is less than specification, pump output is below requirement and pump may be considered faulty. If pressure indicated is within specifications, it may be safely assumed that the external hoses, connections or steering gear is at fault. NOTE: If pump proves faulty in test number two, test should be repeated after pump is repaired and installed in vehicle. This will provide a means of checking the repairs made to the pump and the condition of the steering gear, which may also be faulty. COMPONENT REPLACEMENT AND REPAIRS POWER STEERING GEAR Removal 1. Disconnect hoses at gear. When hoses are disconnected, secure ends in raised position to prevent drainage of oil. Cap or tape the ends of the hoses to prevent entrance of dirt. 2. Install two plugs in gear fittings to prevent entrance of dirt. 3. Remove the flexible coupling to steering shaft flange bolts. 4. Mark the relationship of the pitman arm to the pitman shaft. Remove the pitman shaft nut or pitman arm pinch bolt and then remove the pitman arm from the pitman shaft using Puller J-6632.2. Install the pitman arm onto the pitman shaft, lining up the marks made at removal. Install the pitman shaft nut or pitman arm pinch bolt and torque to specifications. 3. Remove the plugs and caps from the steering gear and hoses and connect the hoses to the gear. Tighten the hose fittings to specified torque. POWER STEERING PUMP Removal (Fig. 33) 1. Disconnect hoses at pump. When hoses are disconnected, 5. Remove the steering gear to frame bolts and remove the gear assembly. 6. Remove the flexible coupling pinch bolt and remove the coupling from the steering gear stub shaft. Installation CAUTION: All steering gear to frame, pitman arm to pitman shaft and steering coupling fasteners are important attaching parts in that they could affect the performance of vital components and systems, and/or could result in major repair expense. They must be replaced with one of the same part number or with an equivalent part if replacement becomes necessary. Do not use a replacement part of lesser quality or substitute design. Torque values must be used as specified during reassembly to assure proper retention of this part. a. Install the flexible coupling onto the steering gear stub shaft, aligning the flat in the coupling with the flat on the shaft. Push the coupling onto the shaft until the stub shaft bottoms on the coupling reinforcement. Install the pinch bolt and torque to specifications. NOTE: The coupling bolt must pass through the shaft undercut. b. Place the steering gear in position, guiding the coupling bolt into the steering shaft flange. c. Install the steering gear to frame bolts and torque to specifications. d. If flexible coupling alignment pin plastic spacers were used, make sure they are bottomed on the pins, tighten the flange bolt nuts to specifications and then remove the plastic spacers (fig. 9). e. If flexible coupling alignment pin plastic spacers were not used, center the pins in the slots in the steering shaft flange and then install and torque the flange bolt nuts to specifications. secure ends in raised position to prevent drainage of oil. Cap or tape the ends of the hoses to prevent entrance of dirt. Disconnect reservoir hose at pump and secure in raised position. Cap hose pump fittings. 2. Install two caps at pump fittings to prevent drainage of oil from pump. 3. Loosen bracket-to-pump mounting nuts. 4. Remove pump belt. 5. Remove bracket-to-pump bolts and remove pump from vehicle. 6. Remove drive pulley attaching nut. 7. Remove pulley from shaft. Do not hammer pulley off shaft as this will damage pump. Use Tool J-?. 1239-1 for pulling stamped pulleys or Tool J-8433-1 with Adapter J-8433-2 for cast pulleys. Installation 1. Install pump pulley. CAUTION: Do not hammer on pump shaft. Use pulley nut to pull pulley onto shaft. 2. Position pump assembly on vehicle and install attaching parts loosely. 3. Connect and tighten hose fittings. 4. Fill reservoir. Bleed pump by turning pulley backward (counter-clockwise as viewed from front) until air bubbles cease to appear. 5. Install pump belt over pulley. 6. Tension belt as outlined under “Pump Belt Tension -Adjustment” in this section. 7. Bleed as outlined under “Maintenance arid Adjustments.” POWER STEERING HOSES When servicing power steering hoses, avoid twisting the hose unnecessarily. Install hoses with the wheels in the straight ahead position, then turn the wheels to the right and left, while observing movement of the hoses. Note and correct any hose contact with other parts of the vehicle that could cause chafing or wear. Any maintenance operation, on the power steering equipment, should include a thorough inspection of the hydraulic line system. Figure 34 illustrates typical installations.PUMP ASM PUMP ASM ,.50 MIN.[b] PARKING BRAKE CABLE PARKING BRAKE CABLE TO ORIENTATE PRESSURE HOSE WHEN INSTALLING, ROTATE PIPE ENDS TO REST AGAINST STEERING PUMP HOUSING. SPEEDO CABLE AND PARKING BRAKE CABLE TO BE ROUTED ABOVE POWER STEERING PIPES AND MAINTAIN CLEARANCE. V8 ENGINE L6 ENGINE Fig. 34—Power Steering Hose Routing1. J-6632 Pitman Arm Puller 2. J-5504 Pitman Arm Puller 3. J-5176 Pressure Gauge 5822 Wormshaft Bearing Cup Puller 5860 Torque Wrench Adapter 22670 Pump Shaft Seal Installer 6222 Shaft Seal Protector 9226 Pitman Shaft Bushing Replacer 7576 Rack-Piston Seal Compressor 21239 Pump Pulley Remover 2927 Steering Wheel Puller 1614 Sector Shaft Bushing Remover 7539 Ball Retainer 7624 Spanner Wrench 4245 #23 Internal Pliers 23600 Belt Tension Gauge 5755 Wormshaft Bearing Cup Installer 2619 Slide Hammer 4. J 5. J 6. J 7. J 8. J 9. J 10. J-: 11. J 12. J 13. J 14. J 15. J 16. J 17. J 18 J 19. J 20. J 21. J 22. J 23. J 24. J-i 25. J 26. J 27 28. 29. 30. 31. 32. 33. J 34. J 35. J 36. 6278 6278-2 7079-2 8524-1 8524-2 6219 6217 5421 22407 22727 22708 22573 22599 21854 22551 22549 23980 Pitman Shaft Bearing Remover Pitman Shaft Bearing Installer Drive Handle Adjuster Plug Bearing Installer Adjuster Plug Bearing Remover Pitman Shaft Seal Installer Connector Seat Installer Thermometer Pitman Shaft Bearing Installer Terminal Remover Turn Signal Cover Remover Steering Column Holding Fixture Lock Nut Socket Pivot Pin Remover Shift Tube Remover Shift Tube Installer Steering Column Electrical Analyzer Torque WrenchesWHEELS AND TIRES INDEX Page General Description......................................................10-1 Tire Tread Wear Indicator........................................10-1 Puncture Inspection and Repair................................10-1 Tire Inflation............................................................10-1 Service Operations........................................................10-2 Jacking Instructions..................................................10-1 Page Wheel Nut Torques (Also See Specifications) ..........10-2 Correcting Irregular Tire Wear..................................10-2 Wheel and Tire Balancing..............................................10-3 Tire Removal and Installation ......................................10-3 TubelessType..........................................................104 GENERAL DESCRIPTION The 1972 Chevy Van and Sportvan truck is equipped with a wide range of tubeless type tires and wheels selected according to the truck GVW rating and type of service. All Light-Duty 30 Series truck models will be equipped with nylon cord truck type tires. 10 & 20 Series with bias belt passenger car type tires. Wheels are of the short spoke type. Only those tires of the size listed in this section are recommended for use on your vehicle. Use of any other size of tire may seriously affect ride, handling, ground clearance, tire clearances, and speedometer calibration. To achieve best all around vehicle handling performance, fibreglass belted tires, radial ply tires, and bias ply tires should not be mixed on the same truck. TIRE TREAD WEAR INDICATOR The original equipment passenger type tires on 10-20 series incorporate built in tread indicators to assist in judging when tires are worn out and should be replaced. These indicators are molded into the bottom of the tread grooves and will appear as bands across the tread as a visual reminder that the tire should be replaced (See Fig. 1). When the depth of tread becomes 1/16-inch or less as indicated by the bands, there is a significant decrease in traction and anti-skid properties, also, the majority of tire troubles will occur in the last 10% of tire life. Puncture Inspection and Repair At each lubrication, tires should be checked for foreign objects in the tread or breaks in the tread or side-wall. If tire is punctured or otherwise damaged, it should be repaired using one of several repair kits available through tire manufactures’ outlets. TIRE INFLATION Standard inflation pressures for tires are listed in the “Load Capacity Chart” in Section O of this manual. These are the minimum required tire pressures and tire sizes for maximum permissible loads. Minimum tire pressures for tires other than those listed in the “Load Capacity Chart” can be determined from the “Tire Load and Inflation Pressure Chart” on the following pages, using the weights shown on the vehicle GVW plate. The use of improper tire inflation pressures can affect tire life and load carrying capacity, and may affect vehicle handling. Inflation pressures should be checked at least once a month (and preferably more often) to insure that the right amount of air is contained in the tires. With regard to tire life, too little air pressure allows abnormal deflection of the tire causing excessive operating temperatures, while too much air pressure prevents normal deflection, making the cord body more vulnerable to road impacts. Use of optional inflations is allowable only with a reduced load as shown in the “Tire Load and Inflation Pressure Chart” on the following page. When operating at loads greater than the optional reduced load, the inflation pressure must be increased to the standard inflation for full rated loads. Tire Load and Inflation Pressure Notes TREAD STILL GOOD TREAD WORN OUT 1. Tire inflation pressure may increase as much as 6 pounds per square inch (psi) when hot. 2. For continous high speed operation, (over 75 mph) with Fig. 1-Tire Tread Wear indicator passenger car type tires increase tire inflation pressure 4TIRE LOAD AND INFLATION PRESSURE TIRES FOR LIGHT TRUCKS USED IN HIGHWAY SERVICE r WIDE BASE TUBELESS TIRES USED AS SINGLES Tire Size Load Range Ply Rating Tire Load Limits at Various Inflation Pressures 30 35 40 45 50 55 60 65 70 75 7.00-14 C 6 1030 1130 1220 1310 7.00-14 D 8 1030 1130 1220 1310 1390 1470 1550 8.00-16.5 C 6 1360 1490 1610 1730 8.75-16.5 C 6 1570 1720 1850 1990 8.75-16.5 D 8 1570 1720 1850 1990 2110 2240 2350 8.75-16.5 E 10 1570 1720 1850 1990 2110 2240 2350 2470 2570 2680 pounds per square inch over the recommended pressures up to a maximum of 32 pounds per square inch cold for load range B tires, or 40 pounds per square inch cold for load range D tires. Sustained speeds above 75 mph are not recommended when the 4 pounds per square inch adjustment would require pressure greater than the maximum stated above. 3. For sustained high speed driving over 65 mph, with truck type tires, cold inflation pressures must be increased 10 psi. Above those specified in the above table for the load being carried. For special operating conditions . . . such as campers or other high center of gravity loading vehicles . . . cold inflation pressures may be increased up to 10 psi. The total increase in cold inflation pressures shall not exceed 10 psi above those specified in the above table for the load being carried. 4. Cold tire inflation pressure: after vehicle has been inoperative for 3 hours or more or driven less than 1 mile. Hot tire inflation pressure: after vehicle has been driven 10 miles or at speeds of more than 60 miles per hour. 5. Loads should be distributed as evenly as possible in the cargo area. 6. Vehicles with luggage racks do not have a vehicle load limit greater than specified. 7. When towing trailers, the additional load on the axle induced by the trailer tongue load must not cause the axle load to exceed the limits stamped on the GVW plate. Tire inflation pressures must be adjusted accordingly. 8. Maximum load must not exceed the maximum tire load limit as indicated by the underscoring in the table. Minimum recommended cold inflation pressures for various loads must conform to the table. SERVICE OPERATIONS JACKING INSTRUCTIONS Wheel Nut Torques (See Specifications) The following chart will assist in performing wheel and tire changes using vehicle jacks supplied with or recommended for use. Model Jacking Point on Vehicle Front Rear Chevy Van or Sportvan Behind Bumper-Under Lower Control Arm Pivot Bar Behind Bumper-Under Rear Axle Close to Wheel CPK 10 SERIES C20-30 SERIES 10-30 Series Vans On a new vehicle or after the wheel has been changed, the wheel nut torque must be checked at 100, 1,000 and 6,000 miles and every 6,000 miles thereafter. Correcting Irregular Tire Wear Heel and Toe Wear-This is a saw-toothed effect where one end of each tread block is worn more than the other. The end that wears is the one that first grips the road when the brakes are applied. Heel and toe wear is less noticeable on rear tires than on front tires, because the propelling action of the rear wheels creates a force which tends to wear the opposite end of the tread blocks. The two forces, propelling and braking, make for more even wear of the rear tires, whereas only the braking forces act on the front wheels and the saw-tooth effect is more noticeable. A certain amount of heel and toe wear is normal. Excessive wear is usually due to high speed driving and excessive use of brakes. The best remedy, in addition to cautioning the owner on his driving habits, is to inter-change tires regularly.Side Wear—This may be caused by incorrect wheel camber, underinflation, high cambered roads or by taking corners at too high a rate of speed. The first two causes are the most common. Camber wear can be readily identified because it occurs only on one side of the treads, whereas underinflation causes wear on both sides. Camber wear requires correction of the camber first and then interchanging tires. There is, of course, no correction for high cambered roads. Cornering wear is discussed further on. Misalignment Wear—This is wear due to excessive toe-in or toe-out. In either case, tires will revolve with a side motion and scrape the tread rubber off. If misalignment is severe, the rubber will be scraped off of both tires; if slight, only one will be affected. The scraping action against the face of the tire causes a small feather edge of rubber to appear on one side of the tread and this feather edge is certain indication of misalignment. The remedy is readjusting toe-in, or rechecking the entire front end alignment if necessary. Uneven Wear—Uneven or spotty wear is due to such irregu-ularities as unequal caster or camber, bent front suspension parts, out-of-balance wheels, brake drums out of round, brakes out of adjustment or other mechanical conditions. The remedy in each case consists of locating the mechanical defect and correcting it. Cornering Wear-When a truck makes an extremely fast turn, the weight is shifted from an even loading on all wheels to an abnormal load on the tires on the outside of the curve ar.d a very light load on the inside tires, due to centrifugal force. This unequal loading may have two unfavorable results. First, the rear tire on the inside of the curve may be relieved of so much load that it is no longer geared to the road and it slips, grinding off the tread on the inside half of the tire at the excessive rate. This type of tire shows much the same appearance of tread wear as tire wear caused by negative camber. Second, the transfer of weight may also overload the outside tires so much that they are laterally distorted resulting in excessive wear on the outside half of the tire, producing a type of wear like that caused by excessive positive camber. Cornering wear can be most easily distinguished from abnormal camber wear by the rounding of the outside shoulder or edge of the tire and by the roughening of the tread surface which denotes abrasion. Cornering wear often produces a fin or raised portion along the inside edge of each row in the tread pattern. In some cases this fin is almost as pronounced as a toe-in fin, and in others, it tapers into a row of tread blocks to such an extent that the tire has a definite “step wear” appearance. The only remedy for cornering wear is proper instruction of operators. Driving more slowly on curves and turns will avoid grinding rubber off tires. To offset normal cornering wear as much as possible, tires should be interchanged at regular intervals. Wheel and Tire Balancing It is desirable from the standpoints of tire wear and vehicle handling ease to maintain proper balance of front wheel and tire assemblies on all models. All wheels intended for use on front of vehicle, such as those switched during periodic tire rotation and those installed as new or repaired replacement equipment should be accurately balanced. This may be accomplished by either of the two types of balancing systems in current use which balance wheels either on the vehicle or off. The “on the vehicle” type, however, is the more desirable in that all rolling components (brake drums, bearings, seals, etc.) are included in the balancing procedure and thereby have any existing unbalance corrected. Truck Wheel Balance Weights All 1972 truck wells equipped with a tubular side ring (rolled flange rim) on the outboard side of the wheel rims require special design weights to fit. Dynamic balancing can be accomplished through use of these special balance weights which are designed only for installations on the outboard side of these wheels. Conventional weights fit only the inboard side of these wheels. Static Balance Static balance (sometimes called still balance) is the equal distribution of weight of the wheel and tire assembly about the axis of rotation in such a manner that the assembly has no tendency to rotate by itself, regardless of its position. For example: A wheel with a chunk of dirt on the rim will always rotate by itself until the heavy side is at the bottom. Any wheel with a heavy side like this is statically out of balance. Static unbalance of a wheel causes a hopping or pounding action (up and down) which frequently leads to wheel “flutter” and quite often to wheel “tramp”. Dynamic Balance Dynamic balance (sometimes called running balance) means that the wheel must be in static balance, and also run smoothly at all speeds. To insure successful, accurate balancing, the following precautions must be observed: • Wheel and tire must be clean and free from all foreign matter. • The tires should be in good condition and properly mounted with the balance mark on the tire, if any, lined up with the valve. • ,Bent wheels that have runout over 1/16” on 1/2, 3/4 and 1 ton trucks should either be replaced or straightened before being balanced. • Inspect tire and wheel assembly to determine if an eccentric or out-of-round condition exists. Note that this condition, if severe, cannot be “balanced out”. An assembly which has an out-of-round condition exceeding 3/16” is not suitable for use on the front of the vehicle. Its use on the rear should be governed by its general condition and whether the roundness defect seriously detracts from the overall ride quality. • When balancing wheels and tires, it is recommended that the instructions covering the operation of the wheel balancer being used be closely followed.TIRE REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION Tire Mounting When tires are mounted on dirty or corroded rims, or when they are not properly centered on rims, the tire bead may “bind" on the rim. and refuse to seat. CAUTION: Allowing pressure to continue to build up within the assembly in an attempt to seat the tire bead is a DANGEROUS PRACTICE which can result in serious injury to the serviceman and a broken tire bead. Be Safe! 1. Make sure that rim flanges and bead ledge (especially hump and radius) areas are smooth and clean. Remove any oxidized rubber, dried soap solution, rust, heavy paint, etc. with a wire brush, or, in extreme cases, a file. 2. Lubricate tire beads, rim flanges, and bead ledge areas with a liberal amount of' thin vegetable oil soap solution, or approved rubber lubricant. 3. Insure that air pressure build-up during the bead seating process is not allowed to exceed 40 pounds pressure. If beads have not seated by the time pressure reaches 40 pounds, assembly should be deflated, repositioned on rim, re-lubricated and re-inflated. 4. Make sure valve core is inserted in valve stem prior to inflating. 5. Use an extension gauge with clip on chuck so air pressure buildup can be closely watched and so that you can stand well back from the assembly during the bead seating process. Fig. 4—Inserting Tire Iron to Lift Bead Demounting and Mounting All tubeless tires used on Chevrolet trucks should be demounted and mounted as described in this section. Sizes may be demounted using present tire machines or standard tire irons following the same procedure employed in servicing tube type tires. CAUTION: A hammer, or tools with sharp edges, should never be used to demount or mount tubeless tires as damage to rim flange or tire sealing bead may result. Inspection for Leaks TUBELESS TIRES Tubeless tires mounted on one piece full drop center rims are standard on some Chevrolet trucks. These tires have a safety inner liner which if punctured, tends to cling to the penetrating object forming a partial seal until the object is removed from the tire. The mounting and demounting of tubeless truck tires will present no problem when a rubber lubricant, such as Ru-Glyde or equivalent is applied to tire beads and rim flanges. Ru-Glyde or equivalent in addition to materially assisting in mounting and demounting also prevents rusting at the tire sealing area and thus prevents tires from adhering to the wheel. 1. With wheel assembly removed from vehicle, inflate the tire to recommended operating pressure. 2. Check for leaks at rim bead by placing wheel and tire horizontal and allowing water to stand in groove between rim and tire. Check for large leaks by lowering assembly into water tank or running water over tire.Fig. 6—Inserting Tire Iron in Second Bead Demounting 1. Remove valve core to completely deflate tire. With tire lying flat on floor, loosen beads from rim seats by walking around on tire with heels at points close to rim. With wide side of rim down, apply tire lubricant to top bead. With stops toward rim, insert spoon ends of two tire irons about 10” apart. While standing on tire to hold bead in gutter, pull one tool toward center of rim (fig. 4). 2. Hold one iron in position with foot and pull second iron toward center of rim. Progressively work bead off rim, taking additional bites if necessary (fig. 5). 3. Stand assembly in vertical position. Lubricate second bead. At top of assembly insert straight end of tire iron between bead and back flange of rim at about a 45 degree angle (fig. 6). 4. Turn iron so that it is perpendicular to rim. Pry second bead off (fig. 7). Mounting Fig. 8—Lubricating Tire Bead Then place rim on floor with wide side down and lubricate first bead of tire and upper bead seat of rim (fig- 8). 2. Push first bead into well of rim and onto rim as far as possible. Using straight end of tire iron and with stop resting on rim flange, work remaining section of first bead over rim (fig. 9). 3. Hold second bead in well by standing on tire. When necessary, push section of bead into rim well and anchor with vise-grip pliers by pinching pliers on rim flange. Using spoon end of tire iron with stop toward rim, work progressively around bead using small bites until bead slips over flange onto rim base. If necessary, insert second tire iron and lubricate last 6” of bead before completing mounting (fig. 10). 4. Check valve to be certain that hex nut at the valve base is tight. Inflate tire to recommended operating pressure. Check assembly for air leaks. All tubeless tires will be mounted as follows: 1. Inspect rim to insure bead seats are clean and smooth. Mounting (w/Tire Machines) 1. Use present tire machines or standard tire irons followingthe same procedure used in mounting tube type tires, however, extreme care must be exercised to prevent injury to the sealing bead when forcing tire over the rim. A slight application of rubber lubricant on the last 1/2 of each bead circle to be mounted will ease mounting. 2. With tire beads still unseated, rotate tire on wheel so that balance mark on tire lines up with the valve stem. 3. Start tire beads into the rim bead seats as follows: If a tire mounting machine is being used, lift the tire high in the rim forcing the top tire bead against the top rim flange seating the top bead. The lower bead will be seated by the tire weight. When a tire mounting machine is not being used, beads may be seated by holding the tire and wheel assembly in a vertical position and bouncing on the floor at various points about the tire circumference. 4. Install valve core and inflate tire with quick “shots” of air to firmly seat the sealing beads. 5. Check assembly for air leaks, then reduce tire pressure to that recommended for vehicle operation. * Fig. 10—Working Second Bead onto RimFRONT END SHEET METAL INDEX General Description .......... Maintenance and Adjustments . . . Hood Assembly and Adjustments Hood Hinges .............. Hood Bumpers ............ Page Page Hood Lock Assembly ........................................11-1 Hood Alignment ................................................11-3 Front End Sheet Metal Assembly..........................11-3 Sheet Metal Checking............................................11-3 Name Plates and Emblems ....................................11-3 GENERAL DESCRIPTION The Chevy Van and Sportvan are 10, 20 and 30 series models. The front end sheet metal design does not include the radiator support and fenders as loose items inasmuch that these items are welded together as an integral part of the body. Front end sheet metal includes the hood assembly, hood hinges, hood lock catch and support, a hood rod assembly which supports the hood, a welded in radiator-upper tie bar, and series designation plates and hoods emblems. Refer to Figure 7 for sheet metal checking. Figure 1 illustrates front end sheet metal components. Refer to Section 13 for Radiator and Grille service procedures, Section 14 for Bumpers, and Section 1A for Heater. Fig. 1—Front End Sheet Metal MAINTENANCE AND ADJUSTMENTS HOOD ASSEMBLY AND ADJUSTMENT The alignment of the hood is controlled by the position of the hood hinges and the height of the two bumpers located one at each side of the radiator support. The adjustment at the hood lock must be made after the hinges and bumpers are properly adjusted (refer to Hood Lock Adjustment fig. 8). To align the hood and lock proceed as follows: Hood Hinges (Fig. 2) NOTE: The body mounted portion of the hood hinges are slotted to provide up and down movement. The hood mounted end is slotted to provide forward and rearward movement. 1. Scribe a line around the entire hinge plate to be re positioned. 2. Loosen the appropriate screws and shift the position of the hood into correct alignment using the scribe marks to check amount of movement. Check alignment by tightening screws and closing the hood. Hood Bumpers (Fig. 3) Adjust hood bumpers so that hood top surface is flush with the fender and grille top surfaces. Refer to Figure 7 for correct sheet metal adjustment dimensions. Hood Lock Assembly A bolt-type hood lock is used as shown in Figure 4. The lock bolt, located on the hood dovetails with the mounted RADIATOR MOUNTING' rHOOD & HOOD LATCH MOUNTING PLATE 'DESIGNATION PLATE /RADIATOR FAN -SHROUD & GUARD MTG RADIATOR GRILLE1 & FRONT FENDER HOOD HINGE & SUPT. ROD MTG. ^■SERIES^ /^"DESIGNATION // PLATE 3^ ;'HOOD LOCK CATCH & SUPPORT:RONT end sheet METAL 11-2 WASHER WELD NUT Fig. 2—Hood Hinge Assembly and Rod Assembly striker plate, preventing upward or downward movement of the hood while the vehicle is in motion. Integral with the striker plate is tha combination lock release lever and safety :atch. 'Replacement 1. Open hood and remove the four bolts holding the combination lock catch and lock bolt. NOTE: If ordinal hood lock assembly is to be replaced, scribe a l!n* around lock for alignment on installation. SUPPORT' ASSEMBLY 2. Place hood lock assembly in position. 3. Adjust as outlined under Adjustments. Fig. 4—Hood Lock Catch Assembly, Support, Baffle and Tie Bar Adjustment CAUTION: Hood lock assembly to be adjusted fore and aft until hood lock bolt enters center of elongated guide. Bending bolt to accomplish this adjustment may seriously effect lock operation and safety catch engagement and is, therefore not recommended. Open hood and adjust tightness of lock bolt support so that they are just “snug” enough to hold lock bolt in position. Close hood in a normal manner. Raise hood again; lock bolt assembly will have shifted to operating position. Tighten bolts fully. Further adjustment may be made at lock bolt support, if necessary. Adjust lock bolt to obtain a secure hood closure and reasonable lock release effort. 4.Hood Assembly Removal 1. Lay a fender cover along cowl top to prevent hood from scratching painted surfaces. 2. Open hood and prop in full open position. NOTE: If hood is to be reinstalled and present alignment is satisfactory, mark each hinge in relation to hood, to assure original alignment. 3. Remove rod assembly (see fig. 2). 4. Remove two cap screws which attach each hinge to hood; then with a helper remove hood from vehicle. Installation 1. If original hood is to be installed, position hood to hinges with helper and install four cap screws snug which attach hinges to hood. 2. Install rod assembly. NOTE: If a new hood is to be installed, perform procedures as outlined under Alignment, directly below. 3. Shift hood on hinges to location marks made before removal of hood, then tighten attaching cap screws at hinges firmly. Close hood and check fit. If necessary to align hood perform procedure as outlined under “Alignment” which follows. Alignment 1. Loosen hood hinge bolts. Note that rear bolt holes in hinge is slotted to allow hood trailing edge to move up and down. 2. Adjust hood bumpers so that hood and adjacent surfaces are flush. 3. Perform hood lock adjustment as outlined in this section if necessary. NOTE: Hood Lock Assembly to be adjusted fore and aft until nubbin (part of Hood Lock Bolt Support Assembly) enters center of elongated guide (Socket). Bending nubbin to accomplish this adjustment may seriously effect lock operation and safety catch engagement and is, therefore, NOT RECOMMENDED. FRONT END SHEET METAL ASSEMBLY The front end sheet metal components not covered in this section are covered in the Body Section IB. Radiator upper tie bar and grille are illustrated by figure 5. Attaching radiator components are shown in figure 6. NAME PLATES AND EMBLEMS Designation plates attached to the front end sheet metal are easily attached and accessible with spring nuts. Refer to illustration figure 9. SHEET METAL CHECKING Refer to the sheet metal checking illustration figure 7 for proper gaps and hood adjustments. COWL TO HOOD 3/16 ± 1/32 NOTE Hood surface flush to 1/16 below cowl vent grille and constant from to hood rear corners. —7 FENDER TO COWL 1/16 GAP (Ref) NOTE Cowl vent grille NOTE Hood surface flush to 1/16 below fender at rear corner and become flush at front of hood. NOTE Full range of gap tolerances do not apply to any one gap. Clearances to be held uniformly within the range of good assembly practices. Appearances dictate that gap clearances should be parallel. FENDER TO HOOD 3/16 ± 1/32 GAPNOTE Hood lock assembly to be adjusted fore & aft until hood lock bolt enters center of elongated guide. See Section A-A. Bending bolt to accomplish this adjustment may seriously effect lock operation & safety catch engagement & is therefore, not recommended (Part of Catch Asm.) LOCK BOLT 110 Ref. HOOD LOCK BOLT BE CENTERED IN GUIDE bumpers must be adjusted until hood & fender line up to specified dimensions. See front end sheet metal checking. GUI (Part of Catch Asm.) SECTION A-A Fig. 8—Hood Lock Adjustment ■y&>ELECTRICAL - BODY AND CHASSIS CONTENTS OF THIS SECTION i Lighting System....... Instruments and Gauges . . Directional Signals ..... Windshield Wiper and Washer Wiring Diagrams....... Page 12-1 12-5 12-8 12-9 12-20 LIGHTING SYSTEM INDEX Page Page General Description............... ..... 12-1 Marker Lamps .................. . . . . 12-3 Maintainence and Adjustments ........ ..... 12-1 Wiper-Washer Switch Replacement..... . . . . 12-3 Headlamp Adjustment........... 12-2 Light Switch Replacement .......... . . . . 12-4 Service Operations ............... ..... 12-2 Stop Lamp Switch Replacement....... . . . . 12-4 Sealed Beam Unit Replacement ...... ..... 12-2 Dimmer Switch Replacement......... . . . . 12-4 Parking Lamp Replacement........ ..... 12-3 Neutral Start Switch Replacement...... . . . . 12-4 Rear Lighting................. ..... 12-3 Backing Lamp Switch Replacement..... .... 12-4 GENERAL DESCRIPTION The engine wiring harness and forward lamp harness connectors are bolted to the fuse panel. All wiring systems not protected by fuses incorporate a fusible link which provides increased overload protection. The starting motor circuit is the exception. Composite wiring diagrams are included at the end of this section. The wire cuvering color designates a particular circuit useage. MAINTENANCE AND ADJUSTMENTS Maintenance of the lighting units and wiring system consists of an occasional check to see that all wiring connections are tight and clean, that the lighting units are tightly mounted to provide good ground and that the headlamps are properly adjusted. Loose or corroded connections may cause a discharged battery, difficult starting, dim lights, and possible damage to generator and regulator. Wire harnesses must be replaced if insulation becomes burned, cracked, or deteriorated. Whenever it is necessary to splice a wire or repair one that is broken, always use solder to bond the splice. Always use rosin flux solder on electrical connections. Use insulating tape to cover all splices or bare wires. When replacing wires, it is important that the correct size be used. Never replace a wire with one of a smaller size. Fusible links in the Chevrolet wiring are four gauge sizes smaller than the cable it is designed to protect. The links are marked on the insulation with wire gauge size because of the heavy insulation which makes the link appear a heavier gauge than it actually is. Hach harness and wire must be held securely in place by clips or other holding devices to prevent chafing or wearing away the insulation due to vibration. The body wiring harness routing is shown in Figure 1. By referring to the wiring diagrams, circuits may be tested for continuous ciicuit --r shorts wiih a conventional test lamp or low reading vuii meter.Fig. 1—Body Wiring and Harness Routing SERVICE OPERATIONS HEADLAMP ADJUSTMENT (Fig. 2) The headlamps must be checked for proper aim whenever a sealed beam unit is replaced and after repairs of the front end sheet metal assembly. Regardless of the method used for checking headlamp aim, the vehicle must be at normal weight, that is with gas, oil, coolant and spare tire. Tires must be inflated to the specified pressures. Some states have special requirements for headlamp aim. These requirements must be known and followed. Horizontal and vertical aiming of each sealed beam is provided by two (2) adjusting screws visible through the bezel. The screws visible through the notches move the mounting ring against the tension of coil spring. There is no adjustment for focus since the sealed beam unit is set for focus during manufacturing assembly. VERTICAL ADJUSTMENT HORIZONTAL ADJUSTMENTPARKING LAMP HOUSING REPLACEMENT (Fig. 3) NOTE: The lamp housing and lens are not interchangeable left to right side. Left Side 1. Open hood for access. 2. Disconnect lead. 3. Remove (2) two nut assemblies from rear of parking lamp housing. 4. From front of grille wiggle lamp assembly out grille opening. 5. Install new lamp assembly in reverse order of removal. Right Side 1. Remove headlamp bezel and headlamp. 2. Reach through headlamp opening for access to parking lamp lead connector. 3. Reaching through headlamp opening, remove (2) two nut assemblies retaining lamp housing. 4. From front of grille tilt and slide parking lamp housing from grille opening. 5. Install new lamp assembly in reverse order of removal. REAR LIGHTING (Fig. 4) The bulbs may be replaced by removing the lamp lens attaching screws and lamp lens. The lamp housings may be replaced by removing the lamp housing attaching nuts. Fig. 4—Rear Lighting MARKER LAMPS Front Bulb 1. Open hood. 2. Grasp plug connector and rotate 1/4 turn counter-clockwise to remove bulb inset in plug connector. 3. Install new bulb, check operation and clcse hood. Rear Bulb Same procedure as front bulb except with rear body inside trim. 1. Remove (2) screws retaining rear marker lamp housing to body. 2. Reach behind lamp housing and rotate connector plug 1/4 turn to remove bulb inset in plug connector. Do not pull ground lead loose. 3. Install new bulb, check operation of bulb and install rear marker lamp housing in body side. WIPER-WASHER SWITCH REPLACEMENT (Fig. 5) 1. Disconnect battery ground cable. 2. Reach up behind left side of instrument panel, standing outside vehicle and: A. Remove plug connector from rear of switch. B. Remove (3) mounting screws securing bezel and ground wires to switch. 3. Replace switch, installing ground wire and connector. Check operation of switch, first observing if washer solvent is in engine compartment container.LIGHT SWITCH REPLACEMENT (Fig. 6) 1. Disconnect battery ground cable. 2. Reaching up behind instrument panel, depress shaft retaining button and remove switch knob-shaft. 3. From front of instrument panel remove switch retaining nut. 4. Push switch from panel opening and remove multiple electrical connector at switch terminals. 5. To install, reverse Steps 1-4, note grounding ring must be installed on switch. STOP LAMP SWITCH REPLACEMENT (Fig. 7) 1. Disconnect wiring harness connector from switch and remove switch retaining nut under instrument panel. 2. Depress brake pedal, place new switch into bracket, install retaining nut and electrical connector. 3. Check switch for operation. Electrical contact should be made when pedal is depressed 3/8" to 5/8” from fully released position. DIMMER SWITCH REPLACEMENT 1. Fold back left side of floor mat and disconnect wiring connector from switch terminals. 2. Remove (2) two screws securing switch to floor pan. 3. Connect electrical plug to replacement switch and check operation. 4. Position switch on floor pan and install retaining screws. 5. Flip floor mat back in place. NEUTRAL START SWITCH REPLACEMENT (Fig. 8) AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION Switch Located on Transmission 1. From under vehicle left side disconnect switch wiring from engine wiring harness. 2. Remove bolt attaching the switch to the transmission and disengage switch from shift lever rod. 3. Position new switch to transmission and install switch attaching bolt. 4. Pin switch lever in NEUTRAL position wath a suitable pin. 5. Put transmission shift lever in NEUTRAL. 6. Install rod into switch lever. It may be necessary to adjust swivel on rod to allow free entry of rod into switch lever. 7. Secure rod with retainer to switch, attach switch electrical connector to engine wiring harness and check operation of switch. BACKING LAMP SWITCH REPLACEMENT (Fig. 9) Switch Located on Transmission 1. From under vehicle disconnect electrical plug at switch terminals. 2. Remove switch from transmission side cover. 3. Install back-up lamp switch in transmission side cover. 4. Connect electrical plug to switch. 5. Turn on ignition switch and check for operation of back-up lamps when transmission is shifted into reverse only.Fig. 8-Neutral Start Switch INSTRUMENTS AND GAUGES INDEX Page General Description......... ......................12-5 Service Operations ........ ........................12-6 Ignition Switch Replacement..........................12-6 Instrument Cluster Replacement......................12-6 Indicator and Illuminating Bulbs..... ............12-6 Laminated Circuit Replacement ......................12-6 Speedometer ............................................12-6 Replacement......... ........................12-6 Cable Replacement, or Lubrication................12-6 Fuel Gauge Replacement ..............................12-7 Page Temperature ...................... 12-7 Sender Unit Replacement ............. 12-7 Indicator Light ................... 12-8 Gauge Replacement..................................12-8 Oil Pressure....................... 12-8 Sender Unit Replacement ..........................12-8 Indicator Light ......................................12-8 Guage Replacement..................................12-8 Generator Indicator Light............................12-8 Ammeter Replacement ................................12-8 GENERAL DESCRIPTION The entire cluster may be removed from the vehicle for servicing instruments and gauges. Illuminating and indicator lamps may be replaced without removing the cluster. The bulb holders are twist-locked through a laminated plastic printed circuit into the cluster housing. Regular maintenance of the instrument cluster is not required, other that seeing the electrical connections are clean and tight, replacing defective parts and properly lubricating the lower 3/4 of the speedometer cable core.SERVICE OPERATIONS Ignition Switch Replacement (Fig. 10) 1. Raise hood and disconnect ground cable from battery. 2. Remove lock cylinder by positioning switch in“ACC” position and inserting stiff wire in small hole in cylinder face. Push in on wire to depress plunger and continue to turn key counter-clockwise until lock cylinder can be removed. 3. Remove the metallic ignition nut switch. 4. Pull the ignition switch out from behind the instrument panel and remove the “theft resistant connector. Use a screwdriver to unsnap the locking tangs on the connector from their position on the switch. 5. Snap the connector into place on a new ignition switch. 6. Place the switch into position from behind the instrument panel, first adding grounding ring then install the ignition switch nut. 7. Install the lock cylinder, key inserted. 8. Install ground cable on battery and close hood. INSTRUMENT CLUSTER REPLACEMENT (Fig. 11) 1. Open hood and remove ground cable from battery. 2. Standing outside vehicle reach up under instrument cluster and disconnect speedometer cable by first depressing tang on rear of speedometer head, pushing then pulling cable free from head as tang is depressed. 3. Unplug instrument panel harness connector from printed circuit. 4. Disconnect oil pressure line from gauge if so equipped. 5. Remove (2) two nuts attaching instrument cluster studs to lower opening in instrument panel. 6. Pull top of cluster away from instrument panel and lift out bottom of cluster. 7. Remove cluster to bench for further disassembly (laminated printed circuit, speedometer head, gauges). 8. Install cluster in reverse order of removal, noting that clips at top of cluster slip into instrument panel opening after bottom of cluster is installed. INDICATOR AND ILLUMINATING BULB REPLACEMENT (Fig. 11) 1. Reach up under instrument panel and turn bulb holder counter-clockwise to remove from the cluster housing. 2. Pull bulb straight out to remove from holder. 3. Install replacement bulb in holder, press inward to lock in place. 4. Insert holder into housing, with lugs on holder entering notches in case, and turn clockwise to lock holder against printed circuit. LAMINATED CIRCUIT REPLACEMENT (Fig. 11) 1. Remove instrument cluster assembly as previously described, steps 1-7. 2. Remove all instrument cluster lamp bulb assemblies. 3. Remove laminated circuit retaining screws. NOTE: These screws serve as a ground for the circuit and must be reinstalled to provide the proper ground. 4. Remove fuel, temperature and ammeter terminal nuts retaining laminated circuit to rear of cluster. 5. Lift laminated curcuit from cluster cover. 6. To install, reverse steps 1-5 and check electrical operation of all affected components. SPEEDOMETER REPLACEMENT NOTE: Servicing of the speedometer assembly should be performed by an authorized AC Speedometer Service Station. ■b\l 1. Remove instrument cluster as previously described in this section. 2. Remove (4) screws retaining cluster rear cover containing speedometer. 3. Remove (2) hex head screws and rubber grommets securing speedometer assembly to cluster cover. 4. To install, reverse removal procedure and check operation of speedometer assembly. DO NOT KINK SPEEDOMETER CABLE. SPEEDOMETER CABLE (CORE) REPLACEMENT OR LUBRICATION 1. Disconnect the speedometer cable casing from the speedometer head by first depressing a tong on rear of speedometer head, pushing in then pulling casing free from the head as the tong is depressed. 2. Remove old core by pulling it out at the end of the speedometer cable casing.ELECTRICAL-BODY AND CHASSIS 12-7 NOTE: If old cable is broken it will be necessary to remove lower piece from transmission end of casing. 3. Lubricate the lower 3/4 length of (shaft) cable with speedometer cable lubricate and feed the shaft into the casing. DO NOT KINK THE SPEEDOMETER CASING. 4. Connect the upper end of the casing to the speedometer head and road test the vehicle for correct speedometer-odometer operation. FUEL GAUGE REPLACEMENT (Fig. 11) 1. Remove instrument cluster assembly as previously described. 2. Remove instrument cluster bulb holders, ground screws, nuts and washers retaining laminated circuit to fuel gauge rear cover. 3. Remove (3) screws retaining fuel gauge rear cluster cover. 4. Lift gauge away from laminated curcuit and rear cluster cover. 5. To install, reverse removal steps 1-4 and check operation of fuel gauge. NOTE: Mount insulator strip on fuel gauge studs first, then resistor, then a nut on each stud, next the laminated circuit, then a plain washer on each of two studs holding laminated circuit and finally a nut on back of the studs that have a washer and laminated circuit. TEMPERATURE SENDER UNIT REPLACEMENT NOTE: See Section O—Coolant Recommendations. 1. Relieve coolant system pressure by loosening radiator cap, then reinstall cap tightly. 2. Remove sender unit located in left cylinder head. 3. Install new temperature sending unit in cylinder head and connect electrical plug. 4. Add coolant to radiator if necessary, replace radiator pressure cap and observe correct operation of temperature indicator light or gauge.TEMPERATURE INDICATOR LIGHT The temperature indicator circuit consists of two remotely located units, indicator light and sending unit. The lamp unit is a single red light which indicates an overheated engine. TEMPERATURE GAUGE REPLACEMENT (Fig. 11) 1. Remove instrument cluster assembly as previously described in this section. 2. Remove terminal nuts retaining laminated circuit to gauge unit. 3. Remove attaching screws, cover and gauge assembly from cluster housing. 4. Remove terminal attaching nuts and gauge unit from cover plate. 5. To install, reverse removal procedure and check, operation of gauge. OIL PRESSURE SENDER UNIT REPLACEMENT i. Disconnect wiring harness connector from sender unit terminal (located in engine block above starter on L6 engines and at left front of distributor on VS engines). NOTE: Remove the engine access cover to reach the V8 oil pressure sending switch. 1. Remove sender unit using Tool J -I*. 1757 replace with new unit and check operation of indicator light or gauge. 3. Reinstall engine access cover on VS engines. OIL PRESSURE INDICATOR LIGHT !f the Sight dues not come on when the ignition switch is turned on. or if the light comes on and remains on after the engine is started, one or more of the following conditions is indicated: Low oil pressure Defective wiring or sender unit Defective bulb High engine temperature OIL PRESSURE GAUGE REPLACEMENT (Fig. 1]) i Renove instrument cluster a previously described in this section. NOTE: Oil pressure line connection may leak oil when opened; wrap with cloth. 2. Remove bulb holders, grounding screws and lift laminated circuit aside as necessary. 3. Remove instrument cluster cover to separate oil pressure gauge from cluster. 4. Remove pipe fitting and retaining nut from gauge being replaced then remove gauge from cluster. DO NOT KINK PIPE. 5. Install replacement oil pressure gauge in the reverse steps 1-4, then observe operation of gauge. GENERATOR INDICATOR If the ignition is turned on, the engine has not been started and the generator telltale indicator is off: 1. Indicator bulb is burned out; replace the bulb. 2. Open circuit or loose connection in the indicator light circuit. If the indicator light stays on after the engine is started; refer to Charging Systems under Engine Electrical, Section 6Y. AMMETER REPLACEMENT (Fig. 11) NOTE: First check (2) in-line fuses at front of engine compartment. 1. Remove instrument cluster assembly as previously described in this section. 2. Remove terminal nuts retaining laminated circuit to ammeter. 3. Lay back laminated circuit portion after removing grounding screws and bulb holders. 4. Remove attaching screws, cover and ammeter from cluster housing. 5. Remove terminal attaching nuts and ammeter from cover plate. 6. To install, reverse steps 1-5 and check operation of ammeter. DIRECTION SIGNAL CONTROL Service procedures for the directional signal and warning switches are covered in Section 9, Steering. The hazard warning switch is not self-cancelling. The switch knob must be pulled out to cancel the circuit. Both the hazard warning flasher and turn signal flasher are located in the fuse panel.WINDSHIELD WIPER AND WASHER INDEX Page General Description........................................12-9 Principal of Operation ....................................12-9 Diagnosis-Wiper on Vehicle..............................12-11 Service Operations ........................................12-11 Wiper Motor ............................................12-11 Removal and Installation............................12-11 Disassembly ..........................................12-13 Page Inspection ............................................12-11 Reassembly ..........................................12-15 Adjustments..........................................12-18 Windshield Washer Pump Assembly ..................12-18 Removal-replacement..............................12-19 Valve Assembly Replacement......................12-19 GENERAL DESCRIPTION The wiper motor assembly consists of compound wound 12 volt D.C. motor, gear reduction mechanism and parking switch enclosed in a common die cast housing. The armature has a worm shaft which drives a gear and shaft assembly. A crank arm, which is attached externally to the gear shaft, operates the linkage which activates the blades. The wiper motor is equipped with an internal circuit breakei mounted on the motor brush plate which protects the motor from overheating. Figure 12 shows the assembly of the washer pump to the wiper motor. PRINCIPLE OF OPERATION (ELECTRICAL CIRCUITS) The following facts should be kept in mind. 1. The wiper dash switch is a grounding type switch and, therefore, must be securely mounted. 2. When installed in a vehicle, the wiper motor is connected to the chassis thru a ground strap. This in effect connects the wiper housing to the ground side of the battery. 3. The ignition switch opens and closes the feed wire circuit to the wiper, therefore, it must be turned “ON” to operate wipers. The wiper motor operation is controlled by two switches-a dash control switch and a parking switch located in the wiper motor gear box. The parking switch contacts are normally closed and are opened by a cam on the gear when the wiper blades reach the park position. The park switch acts as a holding switch to maintain the motor circuits to ground during that period of operation between the time the operator turns the wiper off at the dash switch and the blades reach the park position. Figure 13 shows the park switch contacts open. Turning the Wiper "ON"—"LO" Speed (Assume Ignition Switch On) When the operator turns the wiper dash switch to the “ON” or “LO” speed position, the wiper motor circuits are com- ALIGNING PIN PARK SWITCH (CONTACTS OPENED BY CAM)pleted to ground at the dash switch as follows: (Refer to Figure 14)- Current flows from the battery thru the ignition switch to the center terminal of the wiper terminal board. From the center terminal, current then passes thru the black with pink stripe lead to the series field coils (Larger dia. wire) where it divides and flows thru (1) The shunt field coils to wiper terminal No. 3 thru the wiring harness to the dash switch to ground; and (2) the series field-armature circuit is completed via wiper terminal No. 1 thru the wiring harness to the dash switch to ground. "HI" Speed Operation: Turning the wiper dash switch to the “HI” or fast speed position changes the shunt field coil circuit as follows: (Refer to Figure 15). With the dash switch in the “HI” speed position, the shunt field coil current passes thru a 20 ohm resistor on the back of the wiper terminal board to terminal No. 1 and then via the wiring harness to the dash switch to ground. The armature and series field circuit is also completed via the wiring harness from wiper terminal No. 1 to the dash switch to ground. Turning the Wiper "OFF" Turning the wiper dash switch to the “OFF” position opens the wiper circuits to ground at the dash switch. If, however, the wiper blades are in any position other than the normal park or off position, the wiper motor circuits are completed to ground by the wiper motor park switch as follows: (Refer to Figure 16). a. The series field-armature circuit is completed to ground via the parking switch to the wiper housing to chassis of vehicle. b. The shunt field coil circuit is completed to ground via wiper terminal No. 3 thru the wiring harness to the dash wiring harness to wiper terminal No. 1, thru the parking switch to ground. IMPORTANT: Note that the shunt field circuit during the parking operation bypasses the resistor causing the wiper to operate in LO Speed. Failure of the wiper to operate in LO Speed during parking results in the wiper failing to shut off. SPLICE CIRCUIT BREAKER SPLICE^ MOTOR DASH SWITCH BLACK WITH PINK STRIPE n rtc 12 VOLTS * S s >1 BATTERY ♦; s s s * * < IGNITION SWITCH FUSE WIPER ft TERMINAL I’-kT BOARD RESISTOR 20 OHMS BLACK (LO SPEED CIRCUIT) LEGEND POWER CIRCUIT TO SERIES FIELD SERIES FIELD AND ARMATURE CIRCUIT SHUNT FIELD CIRCUIT SERIES FIELD SHUNT FIELDELECTRICAL - BODY AND CHASS 18 12-1 f FUSE WIPER TERMINAL BOARD SPLICE (HI SPEED CIRCUIT) SERIES FIELD 'SHUNT FIELD LEGEND POWER CIRCUIT TO SERIES FIELD SERIES FIELD AND ARMATURE CIRCUIT SHUNT FIELD CIRCUIT Fig. 15—HI Speed Circuit With the wiper motor circuits completed to ground via the parking switch, the wiper motor continues to operate until the wiper gear cam opens the park switch contacts (Figure 13) stopping the wiper. See Figure 17 for Wiper “OFF” Circuit DIAGNOSIS—WIPER ON VEHICLE Diagnosis with wiper installed on u-ie vehicle consists of 2 basic steps: Preliminary Inspection-(B) Operating wiper independent of vehicle wiring and dash switch. A. Preliminary Inspection: Check the following items: 1. Body wiring securely connected to wiper unit and dash switch. 2. Wiper ground connection to vehicle chassis. 3. Dash switch is mounted securely. 4. Fuse. 5. With ignition switch “ON”, there is 12 volts at center terminal (No. 2) of wiper connector body. Refer to Figure 18 for location of #2 terminal. B. To determine if wiper is cause of trouble, disconnect existing harness from wiper and connect jumper leads to wiper terminals as shown in Figure 18. Try operating, wiper in LO, and HI speeds then check if wiper will shut I off properly (blades in PARK position). If wiper operates correctly, trouble must be in wiring harness or dash switch. Refer to Diagnosis Chart. If wiper fails to operate correctly, remove wiper. WIPER MOTOR REPLACEMENT (Fig. 19) 1. Make sure wiper motor is in Park position. 2. Open hood and remove ground cable from the battery. 3. Remove wiper arm and blade assembly, then remove screw and securing cowl panel. 4. Loosen nuts holding transmission linkage to wiper ’ motor crank arm. 5. Inside the vehicle, disconnect power feed to wiper motor at multiple connector next to the radio. 6. Remove left dash defroster outlet from flex hose and I push hose aside for access to wiper motor screws.€ FF LO HI DASH SWITCH BLACK WITH PINK STRIPE (PARKING CIRCUIT) 12 VOLTS BATTERY | IGNITION SWITCH PARK SWITCH(c1osed during park-V-ing cycle) FUSE a^WIPER TERMINAL BOARD BLACK RESISTOR 20 OHMS SERIES FIELD SHUNT FIELD LEGEND POWER CIRCUIT TO SERIES FIELD SERIES FIELD AND ARMATURE CIRCUIT SHUNT FIELD CIRCUIT Fig. 16-PARKING Circuit DIAGNOSIS CHART Wiper Performs Correctly in Step “B” But ORIGINAL TROUBLE Was POSSIBLE CAUSE 1 -Wiper -no voltage supply at wiper (Blown fuse or open in wire that connects to No. 2 wiper terminal.) -Defective Dash Switch -Wire from Wiper Terminal No. 1 to dash switch open. 2-Wiper would not shut off but had: (a) Both LO & HI speeds (b) LO speed only (c) HI speed only (a) Wire from wiper terminal No. 1 to dash switch grounded. (b) Wire from wiper terminal No. 3 to dash switch grounded. (c) Wire from wiper terminal No. 3 to dash switch open. 3-Wiper had “HI” speed only See item 2(c) above 4-Wiper had “LO” speed only See item 2(b) above 5-Intermittent Operation Loose dash switch mounting. Defective dash switch. Poor wiring connections.OFF LO HI DASH i SWITCH (WIPER OFF ) BLACK WITH PINK STRIPE BATTERY FUSE I .WIPER TERMINAL * BOARD SERIES field; 'shunt field , LEGEND POWER CIRCUIT TO SERIES FIELD SERIES FIELD AND ARMATURE CIRCUIT SHUNT FIELD CIRCUIT Fig. 17—OFF Circuit 6. Remove one (1) screw securing left hand heater duct to engine cover shround and slip heater duct down and out. 7. Protect carpet, then remove windshield washer hoses from washer pump. 8. Remove (3) three screws securing wiper motor to cowl and lift wiper motor out from under dash for further disassembly on bench. 9. Install wiper in the PARK position. Reverse steps 1-11. DISASSEMBLY-ASSEMBLY PROCEDURES NOTE: Required lubrication for various parts is shown in the Lubrication Chart at the end of this section. Park Switch Removal 1. Remove washer pump Figure 12. 2. Remove screw retaining park switch. Refer to Figure 20. 3. Remove spacer. Refer to Figure 20. 4. Unsolder lead. Terminal Board Removal 1. Remove washer pump. 2. Remove spacer. Refer to Figure 20. 3. Unsolder leads. Gear Assembly Removal 1. Remove Washer pump. 2. Remove park switch. (See park switch removal.) Unsolder lead only if required. 3. CLAMP CRANK ARM IN VISE and loosen crank arm retaining nut. Remove nut and crank arm. Refer to Figure 21. 4. Remove seal cap and using Truarc pliers No. 22 expansion type, remove the “C” retaining ring. Refer to Figure 22. Next, remove end play washers, shield, and outer spacer washer. Refer to Figure 23. 5. Slide the gear assembly out of the housing and remove the inner spacer washer. Figure 24. 6. Slide drive plate and shaft assembly out of gear and tube assembly. Except for installing the crank arm, to reassemble the gear box, reverse the disassembly procedure.Crank Arm Reassembly 1. Operate wiper gear to park position (Figure 21). 2. Position crank arm on gear shaft flats according to position shown in Figure 21. 3. Install crank arm retaining nut finger tight, then clamp crank arm in vise and tighten retaining nut securely. motor disassembly NOTE: Motor section may be disassembled independently of the gear box. Brush Plate and Circuit Breaker Removal 1. Scribe a reference line along the side of the casting and end cap to insure proper reassembly. 2. Remove the two motor thru bolts. 3. Feed exposed excess length of motor leads thru the casting grommet and carefully back the case and field assembly plus the armature away from the casting (Figure 25). NOTE: It may be necessary to remove the ai. ature end play adjusting screw and insert a rod thru the opening in order to apply pressure against the end of the armature. 4. Unsolder the black cotton-covered lead from circuit breaker (Figure 26). 5. Straighten out the 4 tabs that secure the brush plate to the field coil retainers (Figure 26). CAUTION: Be careful not to break any of the retainer tabs. 6. Install “U” shaped brush retainer clip over brush holder that has brush lead attached to circuit breaker (Figure 26). 7. Holding the opposite brush from that retained in Step 6, carefully lift the brush holder off the mounting tabs far enough to clear the armature commutator (Figure 27). 8. Allow the brush, held in Step 7, to move out of its holder. Remove the brush spring and lift the brush holder off the armature shaft. BLACK (PLASTIC COATED) Lo Speed - As shown "Hi” Speed - Disconnect Jumper from Terminal No. 3. Park - Reconnect Jumper to No. 3 terminal and disconnect Jumper from wiper housing. NOTE: To recheck park position of gear, reconnect jumper wire to Hsg. (Grd.) momentarily. Wiper gear should continue to rotate until it stops in the position shown. Fig. 18—Wiper Motor Diagnosis Diagram Vi£>ELECTRICAL-BODY AND CHASSIS 12-15 Fig. 19—Wiper Motor Assembly Installation Armature Removal 1. Follow Steps 1 thru 8 under brush plate removal. 2. Lift armature out of case and field assembly. 3. If armature is being replaced, remove thrust ball from end of defective armature shaft and install it in new armature. NOTE: Thrust ball may to easily removed with a magnet. Case and Field Assembly Removal 1. Remove brush plate and armature. 2. The end case and field assembly is serviced as a unit. To free the field and case assembly, cut the solid black plastic insulation and black with pink stripe leads in a location convenient for splicing-preferably near the wiper terminal board. Refer to Figure 26 for splicing location. 3. Remove steel thrust plate and rubber disc from case bearing as required. MOTOR RE-ASSEMBLY 1. If new field and case assembly is being installed, splice the black and black with pink stripe leads of the new field with the corresponding leads of the wiper terminal board. 2. Install the rubber thrust disc, steel thrust disc and felt lubricating washer in the case assembly bearing in order indicated. 3. Lubricate end of armature shaft that fits in case bearing with recommended type grease. (See Lubrication Chart at end of this section.) Next, install thrust ball in end of shaft. 4. Assemble armature in the case and field assembly. (Refer to Figure 28.) 5. Position the partially assembled brush plate (Figure 29) over the armature shaft far enough to allow re-assembly of the remaining brush in its brush holder, then position the brush plate on the mounting tabs in the position shown in Figure 26.Fig. 20-PARK Switch Removal Fig. 22-"C" Ring Removal NOTE: Circuit breaker should be opposite field cross over splice connections (Figure 27). 6. Center the brush plate mounting holes over the mounting tabs and bend the tabs toward the brush holders as required to secure the brush plate in position.DRIVE PLATE AND SHAFT ASSEMBLY DRIVE PLATE SUPPORTS INNER SPACER WASHER PARTIALLY DISASSEMBLED FROM GEAR AND TUBE ASSEMBLY WHEN ASSEMBLED PROPERLY , DRIVE PLATE SHOULD FIT TIGHTLY BETWEEN THE SUPPORTS Fig. 24—Drive Gear Removal CAUTION: Be sure tabs are centered in brush plate mtg. holes. 7. Fig. 26—Circuit Breaker Remove brush retainer clips and resolder black cotton covered lead to circuit breaker. Refer to Figure 26. If new case and field assembly is used, scribe a line on it in the same location as the one scribed on the old case. CUT MOTOR LEADS IN THIS GENERAL AREA FOR SPLICING BRUSH PLATE ASSEMBLY RETAINER TAB (4) BLACK LEA CIRCUIT BR RETAINER CLIP „ t 1-SOLID BLACK TO SHUNT FIELD COIL 2-SERIES FIELD COIL TO BLACK WITH PINK STRIPE LEADCAUTION: It may be necessary at this point to rotate armature slightly before the armature worm will engage with worm gear teeth. 11. Rotate the case as required to align the bolt holes in the case with those in the housing. 12. Secure the case to the housing with the two tie bolts. 13. Adjust armature end-play as described under Wiper Adjustments. ADJUSTMENTS a. Armature End-Play 1. Loosen adjusting screw locknut (Figure 22) and tighten the adjusting screw until finger tight. b. Gear Assembly End-Play 1. Add end-play washers as required to obtain .005" minimum end-play (Figure 22). Fig. 28—Armature Inserted in Case Assembly This will insure proper alignment of the new case with the scribed line made on the housing. (Step 1 under Brush Plate Removal.) 9. Position armature worm shaft inside the housing and, using the scribed reference marks, line up as near as possible the case and field assembly with the housing. 10. Maintaining the armature in its assembled position in the case, start the armature worm shaft through the field and housing bearing until it starts to mesh with the worm gear. At the same time, carefully pull the excess black and black and pink stripe leads thru the housing grommet. WASHER PUMP UNIT The washer pump and/or valve assembly may be removed from the wiper assembly as a unit; therefore, it is not necessary to remove the wiper assembly from the vehicle if only the washer pump and/or valve assembly requires service. When the pump is removed from the wiper assembly, all working parts are readily accessible and may easily be serviced as necessary (Figure 30). A cross-section of the washer pump valve assembly is shown in Figure 31. 'E' RING RATCHET PAWL PAWL SPRING VALVE ASSEMBLY RELAY ARMATURE ARMATURE SPRINGEXHAUST VALVES CLOSED NTAKE STROKE DIRECTION OF TRAVEL • ACTUATOR PLATE EXHAUST STROKE Fig. 31—Cross Section of Windshield Washer Pump Valve Assembly Removal of Pump Assembly 1. Raise vehicle hood and disconnect ground cable from battery. 2. Remove left heater duct attached to engine shroud, for access. 3. Disconnect washer hoses and electrical connections from assembly. 4. Remove 3 screws securing washer pump and cover to wiper assembly. Remove pump from wiper gear box. Valve Assembly 1. Remove the four (4) screws that attach the valve assembly to the pump housing. CAUTION: During re-assembly be sure gasket between housing and valve plate is properly posi- tioned in the housing and valve plate grooves. Also be sure triple "O" ring is properly installed between valve and pipe assembly. 2. Assemble washer pump in the reverse order of disassembly. LUBRICATION SPECIFICATIONS Gear Teeth Texaco Multifax No. 2 Gear Shaft or Armature Shaft (Worm Area) Sun Oil Co. Prestige No. 42 or equivalent Armature Shaft (Bearing Areas) Texaco Multifax EP 1 or equivalentELECTRICAL CIRCUIT IDENTIFICATION Circuit Circuit Circuit Circuit Number Color Circuit Name Number Color Circuit Name 2 Red Feed, Battery - Unfused 38 Dark Blue Flasher, Fuse Feed 3 Pink Feed, Ign. Sw. “On” Controlled -Unfused 39 Pink-Black Feed, Ign. Sw. “On” Controlled Fused 3 White - Purple Primary Ignition Voltage - Dropping 40 Orange Feed, Battery - Fused & Orange Resistor. .38 ohm/ft. 41 Brown-White Feed, Ign. Sw. Accsy. Controlled - 3 White-Red & Primary Ignition Voltage - Dropping Fused Black Resistor 30 ohm ./ft. 43 Yellow Radio Feed 4 Brown Feed. Ign. Sw. Accy. Controlled -Unfused 44 Dark Green Instrument and Panel Lights, Feed (Usually Light Switch to Fuse) 5 Purple Neutral Safety Switch Feed or Neutral Safety Switch to Relay (Truck ) or 45 Black Marker and Clearance Lamps (Trailers - ICC Requirement) Relay to Ignition Switch (Truck) 46 Dark Blue Rear Seat Speaker Feed from Radio (Auto. Trans.) Single or Rt„ Stereo 6 Purple Starter Solenoid Feed 47 Dark Blue Auxiliary Circuits (Trailer) 7 Yellow Primary Ignition Resistance Bypass 49 Gray Mod. Assembly to Control 8 Gray Instrument and Panel Lights, 50 Brown Blower Switch - Feed (Fused No. 44 Circuit) 51 Yellow Blower Feed - Low 9 Brown Tail and License Lamp, Forward Side 52 Orange Blower Feed - High Marker Lamps. 55 Orange Kick-Down on Automatic Transmission Tail, Clearance and Marker Lamps 56 Tan Amplifier to Heatsink (Radio) (Trailers) 59 Dark Green Compressor to Air Conditioning 10 Light Blue Dimmer Switch Feed Switch 11 Light Green Headlamp, High Beam 60 Orange-Black Feed, Battery - 12 Tan Headlamp, Low Beam Circuit Braker Protected 13 Purple Front Parking Lamps 63 Tan Blower-Switch Control - Low and Feed 14 Light Blue L.H. Indicator and Front 65 Purple Blower Motor to Relay Direction Light 70 Red-White Feed, Relay Controlled - 15 Dark Blue R. H. Indicator and Front Circuit Breaker Protected Direction Light 72 Light Blue Blower Switch Medium to Blower 16 Purple Direction Signal Switch, Feed Resistor from Flasher 75 Dark Green Back-Up Switch or Parking Brake 17 White Direction Signal Switch, Feed Alarm Feed from Stop Switch 80 Pink-Black Feed-Key Warning Buzzer 18 Yellow Stop and Direction Lamp or Direction Lamp Only - Rear L.H. 90 Pink-Black Feed, Cutout Sw. Controlled -Circuit Breaker Protected 19 Dark Green Stop and Direction Lamp, or 91 Black Windshield Wiper - Low Direction Lamp Only - Rear R.H. 92 Light Blue Windshield Wiper - High 20 Red Stop Lamp (Trailer) 93 Yellow Windshield Wiper Motor-Feed 22 White Ground - Direct (Trailer Wiring) 94 Dark Blue Windshield Washer Switch to 24 Light Green Back-Up Lamp Windshield Washer 25 Brown Generator or Generator Armature 101 Dark Blue Resistor Output to Blower Relay to Voltage Regulator “A” (Includes 102 White SI Alternator Regulator Sensing Generator Telltale Circuit) or Circuit Regulator to Ignition Switch (Truck) 105 Black Ammeter - Generator 26 Dark Blue Field Circuit (F) (Gen./Reg.) 106 Black-White Ammeter - Battery 27 Brown Traffic Hazard Switch, Feed from 107 Dark Blue Over-Speed Warning Light Flasher 111 Black Buzzer to Low Air Pressure or 28 Black Horn Switch Vacuum Switch 29 Dark Green Horn Feed 112 Dark Green Telltale Temperature Gauge (Hot) 30 Tan Fuel Gauge to Tank Unit White 31 Dark Blue Oil Pressure - Engine 119 White Generator (Alternator) to Regulator 32 Yellow Map Light 120 Black Power Trans. Relay to Thermo 33 Tan Warning Light - Brake Alarm Switch (Truck) 34 Purple Fog or Drive Lamp 121 Brown Tachometer to Coil 35 Dark Green Telltale Temp. Gauge (Hot), or Std. Temp. - Readable Gauge. ELECTRICAL - BODY AND CHASSIS 12-21 ELECTRICAL CIRCUIT IDENTIFICATION (Co,it'd.) Circuit Number Circuit Color Circuit Name Circuit Number Circuit Color Circuit Name 124 Black Switch on Shift Lever to Adapter, or 179 Tan Power Seat - 6-W - Solenoid - Rear - to Motor on Rear Axle (Low), or Up and Down to Adaptor (Low) (Truck) 180 Light Green Power Seat - 6-W - Solenoid - Frt. - 125 Light Green Switch to Diff. Lock-Out Valve (Truck) Up and Down 126 Brown Diesel Ignition - Buzzer to No. 4 181 Light Blue Power Seat - Solenoid - “L” on Voltage Regulator (Truck) Fore and Aft 127 Dark Green Two-Speed Axle - Switch on Shift 182 Yellow Power Seat - 6-W - Aft and Down Lever to Motor on Rear Axle 183 Light Blue Tailgate - Window - Up (High) (Truck) 184 Tan-White Tailgate - Window - Down 130 Color depends Generator (Alternator) External 189 Dark Green Power Seat - 4-W - Fore and Down on Resistance Resistance 190 Yellow Power Seat - 4-W - Aft and Up Brown-White 2 ohms per foot 191 Light Green Power Seat - 4-W - Solenoid - Black-Pink 1 ohm per foot Up and Down 131 Brown Low Vacuum to Air Pressure 192 Purple Defogger - High or Single Speed Warning Light to Switch (Truck) 193 White-Purple Defogger - Low Speed - .38 ohm/ft. 139 Pink-Black Feed, Ign. Sw. “On” Controlled - & Orange Fused 198 Light Green In-Car Sensor to Control 140 Orange Feed, Battery - Fused 199 Brown Rear Seat Speaker - Feed from Radio 141 Brown-White Feed Ign. Sw. Accsy. Controlled Left Stereo Fused 200 Light Green Front Speaker - Feed from Radio - 150 Black Ground Circuit - Direct Single or Right Stereo 151 Black Ground Circuit - Direct 201 Tan Front Speaker - Feed from Radio - 152 Black Ground Circuit - Direct Left Stereo 153 Black Ground Circuit - Direct 202 Black Compressor over Heat Switch to 154 Black Ground Circuit - Direct Thermal Limiter 155 Black Ground Circuit - Direct 203 Red-White Rear Air Conditioning 156 White Ground Circuit - Switch Controlled - Potentiometer Feed 157 White Black Body Interior Lamps - such as Dome, 204 Brown Ambient Temperature Switch 158 White Dark Courtesy, Map, Warning, etc. to Thermal Limiter (Feed) Green 205 White-Black Seat Belt Seat Sensor to 159 Black-Purple Ground - Key Warning Buzzer Belt Retractor (Ground) 162 Gray Power Top-Up 206 Black Neutral Start Switch to Buzzer 163 Purple Power Top Down and Lamp 164 Dark Blue Window Control - L. F. - Up 207 Yellow-Black Seat Sensor to Neutral 165 Brown Window Control - L. F. Down Start Switch 166 Dark Blue- Window Control - R.F. -Up 208 Black Switch Controlled Ground - TCS White 209 Purple Park Brake Warn Lamp 167 Tan Window Control - R.F. - Down 239 Pink-Black Feed, Ign. Sw. “On” Controlled - 168 Dark Green Window Control - L.R. - Up Fused 169 Purple Window Control - L.R. - Down 240 Orange Feed, Battery - Fused 170 Light Green Window Control - R.R. - Up 241 Brown-White Feed Ign. Sw. Accsy. Controlled - Fused 171 Purple-White Window Control - R.R. - Down 340 Orange Feed, Battery - Fused 178 Dark Green Power Seat - 6-W - l ore and Aft NOTF: Ground circuit numbers used in the order as listed, depending on the number of circuits at any one time. *When No. 35 circuit does not apply (normally on Vehicles with both Telltale Light and Standard Temperature Gauge.)SD MRK LP SD V9K UP*(b iso^e DIRECTION SIG CONlI8 BLK-A-I DASH PNLGRD< i/j 70 » -18 WHT- -18 OM- - 18 TAN- -18 GRN DK - 18 YEL- -18-GRN LT.- - 18 BRN- -18 GRN DK -18 GRN LT- -18 BRN- oo zz ELECTRICAL - BODY AND CHASSIS 12-25RADIATOR AND GRILLE CONTENTS OF THIS SECTION Page Radiator Service Procedures.................13-1 Grille Service Procedures...................13-1 RADIATOR SERVICE PROCEDURES Removal (Figs. 1 and 2) NOTE: When draining the radiator use a short piece of 3/8 inch l.D. hose over the drain cock and route hose past body parts to a clean container and save anti-freeze for later refill. 1. Drain radiator and remove hoses and transmission lines if equipped. 2. Remove finger guard (6 cylinder engine). 3. Remove upper retainers with fan shroud attached (V-8 engines) and rest fan shroud over engine fan. 4. Lift radiator out of lower retainers. Installation Install in reverse order of removal. Be sure lower and upper retainers and mounting pads are properly positioned. Fill cooling system and check for leaks. GRILLE SERVICE PROCEDURES Removal (Fig. 3) 1. Remove left and right headlamp bezels. Fig. 2—Radiator Mounting 2. Remove attaching screws. Grille to cross sill, body and radiator support and remove the grille. 3. Separate emblem from grille, if necessary, by removing nuts on rear of emblem. Installation Install the grille in reverse order of removal.BUMPER GENERAL DESCRIPTION All Chevy Van front and rear bumpers are of a single piece This section includes procedures for the removal and installa-design. Bumper attachments are bracket and brace to frame. tion of face bars, brackets, braces and license plate support. FRONT BUMPER Removal Fig. 1 1. Remove nuts securing bumper to brackets and braces from left and right side. Remove bumper. 2. Remove the license plate support nuts and bolts. 3. If necessary to remove the braces and brackets: remove screws securing brackets and braces to sheet metal. NOTE: The bumper may be removed with brackets and braces attached. Installation Install in reverse order of removal. REAR BUMPER Removal Fig. 2 1. Remove nuts securing bumper to brackets and braces and remove the bumper. 2. Remove brackets and braces from vehicle. NOTE: The bumper may be removed with brackets and braces attached if necessary. Installation Install in reverse order of removal.SECTION 15 ACCESSORIES RADIO REPLACEMENT (Fig. 1) 1. Disconnect ground cable from battery. 2. Remove engine cover. 3. Remove air cleaner on carburetor. 4. Remove stud in carburetor throat for mounting air v»eaner. 5. Cover carburetor throat with clean plastic to prevent dirt or radio attachments from falling into carburetor. 6. Remove knobs, washers and nuts from control shafts on front of radio. 7. Remove bracket from rear side of radio entirely. 8. Now guide radio back and up through engine access area, gently tilt radio down and slide radio out far enough to disconnect electrical connectors and aerial. 9. Reverse removal procedure for installation of radio. SPEAKER REPLACEMENT 1. Follow radio removal steps 1 through 8. 2. Remove left heater duct attached to engine cover extension by (1) screw. 3. Remove (1) speaker mounting screw and lower speaker out engine cover opening. 4. Reverse steps 1, 2 and 3 above for speaker replacement.SPECIFICATIONS HEATING AND AIR CONDITIONING SECTION 1A HEATER Amps RPM Volts (Cold) (Cold) Blower Motor Std. Heater............... 13.5 10.0 Max. 3200-3400 Aux. Heater.............. 13.5 9.6 Max. 2700 Min. Fuse Deluxe Heater ............................. 15 Amp. AIR CONDITIONING Compressor Make ................................... Frigidaire Type............................... 6 Cylinder Axial Displacement........................... 12.6 Cu. In. Rotation.................................Clockwise Amps RPM Volts (Cold) (Cold) Blower Motor C62 and C62-C63............ 12 13.7 Max. 3400 Min. Compressor Clutch Coil Ohms (at 80°F) ............................... 3.70 Amps (at 80°F) .......................3.22 @ 12 volts System Capacities Refrigerant-12 C62 System............................ 3 lbs. 4 oz. C62-C63 System........................ 5 lbs. 4 oz. 525 Viscosity Compressor Oil All Systems............................10 fluid oz. Torque Specifications Compressor Suction and Discharge Connector Bolt............. Rear Head to Shell Stud Nuts .... Shaft Mounting Nut........... Belt Tension................. Fuses All Systems ................. ....... 25 ft. lbs. ....... 23 ft. lbs. ....... 15 ft. lbs. See Tune Up Chart 25 Amp.BODY SECTION IB TORQUE SPECIFICATIONS MIRRORS AND SUNSHADE Inside Rear View Mirror to Bracket.............15 in. lb. Outside Rear View Mirror to Panel..............40 in. lb. Sunshade Support to Header Panel..............15 in. lb. SIDE WINDOW (SWINGOUT) Latch to Body .............................40 in. lb. Latch to Glass .............................40 in. lb. Hinge to Body .............................40 in. lb. FRONT SIDE DOORS Door Hinges...............................30 ft. lb. Door Hinge Access Hole Cover.................18 in. lb. Door Lock Striker ..........................45 ft. lb. Door Lock to Door ......................... 20 ft. lb. Outside Door Handle........................45 in. lb. REAR DOOR Hinge Strap to Door.........................45 in. lb. Hinge Strap Bracket to Body..................45 in. lb. Hinge (to body and door).....................30 ft. lb. Remote Control Retaining Screws..............85 in. lb. Latch-to-Door Retaining Screws................90 in. lb. Door Strikers-to-Body .......................90 in. lb. Outside Door Handle........................45 in. lb. SLIDING SIDE DOOR Remote Control (front latch) to Door...........90 in. lb. Rear Latch to Door .........................90 in. lb. Rear Plate to Door..........................90 in. lb. Lower Front Roller and Roller Support Support-to-Door.......................... 24 ft. lb. Support to Roller Bracket...................24 ft. lb. Roller to Roller Bracket....................20 ft. lb. Catch to Roller Bracket ....................45 in. lb. Upper Front Roller Bracket Bracket to Door ..........................24 ft. lb. Roller to Bracket ......................... 20 ft. lb. Upper Left Hinge (Door Half) Hinge to Door............................25 ft. lb. Upper Left Hinge (Body Half) Roller to Hinge...........................20 ft. lb. Guide Block to Hinge......................40 in. lb. Lever Arm-to-Hinge Retaining Nut............120 in. lb. Lever Retaining Screw .....................40 in. lb. Striker to Body...........................20 ft. lb. Rear Striker Bolt (Body Mounted)..............45 ft. lb. Front Striker Retaining Screws (Body Mounted) ... 90 in. lb. SEATS Seat Belt to Seat............................65 ft. lb. Passenger and Drivers Seat to Adjuster (Mounting Bracket) ..........150 in. lb. Seat to Riser.............................35 ft. lb. Seat Riser-to-Floor........................35 ft. lb. Bench Seats Seat to Seat Support..............................................18 ft. lb. Seat Support to Floor Clamps................65 ft. lb.FRONT SUSPENSION SECTION 3 VEHICLE ALIGNMENT TOLERANCES tt Field Usage Column 1 Column 3 ■"Service Checking (©Service Reset Camber ............................................. ± 3/4° ± 1/2° Caster ............................................. ± 1° ± 1/2° $ Toe-in ............................................. ± 1/8” ± 1/16” Camber (Side to Side) .................................... 1° 1/2° Caster (Side to Side) ..................................... 1° 1/2° VEHICLE INSPECTION TOLERANCES Column 2 Caster ................................................. + 2° Camber................................................. ....... + 1-1/2° Toe ................................................... ....... + 3/8” o * Caster and Camber must not vary more than 1 from side to side. @ Caster and Camber must not vary more than 1/2 from side to side. $ Toe setting must always be made after caster and camber. tt See explanatory copy in front suspension section. •WHEEL ALIGNMENT SPECIFICATIONS CASTER Dimension “A” in inches 2Vi" 2*” 3” 3*4” 3fc” 3*” 4” 4y4” 4&” 4M” 5” GA - 10-20-30 +\Vi + 1° +%° +tt° + *4° 0 -Va° -Vi -%° -1° CAMBER GA -10-20-30 ........................................................... +y4° TOE-IN (TOTAL) GA 10-20-30 ........................................................... 3/16” * See column 1, 2 or 3 under Vehicle Alignment Tolerances for applicable tolerances.REAR SUSPENSION AND DRIVE LINE SECTION 4 SPRING TORQUE Retainer Plate-to-“U” Bolts (G10-20 Models) .... 120 ft. lb. Retainer Plate-to-“U” Bolts (G30 Models)........150 ft. lb. Front Eye Bolt............................ 155 ft. lb. Rear Shackle Bolt.......................... 155 ft. lb. PROPELLER SHAFT TORQUE “U” Bolt-to-Axle (G10-20 Models) ............. 15 ft. lb. Strap to Axle (G10-20 Models) ................ 15 ft. lb. “U” Bolt-to-Axle (G30 Models)................ 20 ft. lb. Hanger-to-Frame ........................... 25 ft. lb. SHOCK ABSORBER TORQUE To Axle .................................. 75 ft. lb. To Frame................................. 75 ft. lb. WHEEL BEARING ADJUSTMENT (SERIES G30) While rotating drum, tighten bearing adjusting nut to 50-60 ft. lbs. Then back off nut 1/8 turn to align nearest slot on inner nut with short tang on locking retainer and bend tang into slot in nut. Torque outer lock nut to 175 ft. lb. Bend one long tang into slot on outer nut. AXLE Ring Gear to Pinion Gear Backlash (,005”-.008” Preferred) 10-20 series............................003”-.010” 30 series............................003”-.012” Lubricant Capacity................. See Owner’s Manual TORQUE SERIES SERIES G10-20 G30 Drive Pinion Bearing Preload New ..................... 20 •25 in. lbs. Used..................... 5 ■10 in. lbs. Carrier Cover................ 20 ft. lbs. 18 ft. lbs. Ring Gear................... 50 ft. lbs. 110 ft. lbs. Differential Bearing Caps....... 55 ft. lbs. 100 ft. lbs. Filler Plug .................. 20 ft. lbs. 10 ft. lbs. Differential Pinion Lock ....... 20 ft. lbs. Side Bearing Adjuster Lock Bolt . 15 ft. lbs. Drive Pinion Nut ............. 220 ft. lbs. Differential Carrier to Axle Housing 45 ft. lbs. Pinion Bearing Cage to Carrier .. . 95 ft. lbs. Thrust Pad Lock Nut.......... 135 ft. lbs. Brake Backing Plate........... 35 ft. lbs. 88 ft. lbs. BRAKES SECTION 5 TORQUE SPECIFICATIONS Master cylinder mounting bracket to dash nuts ............................ 25 ft. lbs. Master cylinder to bracket bolts............... 25 ft. lbs. Master cylinder to booster nuts ............... 25 ft. lbs. Vacuum cylinder to dash nuts ................ 25 ft. lbs. Push rod to clevis nut....................... 25 ft. lbs. Brake pipe nut to master cylinder ............ 150 in. lbs. Brake pipe nut to combination valve .......... 150 in. lbs. Combination valve bracket bolts .............. 19 ft. lbs. Brake line to frame screw................... 100 in. lbs. Brake line to frame nut .................... 150 in. lbs. Brake line nut to union .................... 115 in. lbs. Brake hose to brake line.................... 150 in. lbs. Brake line to junction block — rear ........... 150 in. lbs. Brake line to wheel cylinder — rear ........... 150 in. lbs. Brake hose to caliper bolt — front ............. 22 ft. lbs. Wheel cylinder to backing plate bolt ........... 50 in. lbs. Equalizer jam nut.......................... 17 ft. lbs. Parking brake pedal assembly to dash fasteners.............................. 100 in. lbs. Parking brake cable clip on assembly ........... 18 ft. lbs. Parking brake cable clips to radiator baffle and frame ........................ 150 in. lbs. Brake pedal mounting bracket to dash fasteners.............................. 120 in. lbs. Clutch pedal lever nut ...................... 26 ft. lbs. Brake shoe anchor pin G-10-20............................... 115 ft. lbs. G-30 ................................. 145 ft. lbs.ENGINE SECTION 6 TUNE UP CHART ENGINE Type In Line V8 Displacement 250 307 350 Horsepower 110 135 175 COMPRESSION ® 130 psi 150 psi SPARK PLUG Make & Number Standard AC-R46T AC-R44T Cold AC-R45T AC-R43T Gap .035" DISTRIBUTOR Point Dwell 31-34* 29 °-310 Point Gap .016" (Used) .019" (New) Arm Spring Tension 19-23 ounces Condenser .18-.23 microfarad Timing © Syn. 4° BTDC 4° BTDC 4° BTDC Auto. 4'BTDC 8° BTDC 8° BTDC DRIVEBELT Fan,P/S & Air Pump 50 lb. Min. 75 ± 5 lbs. (Used) 125 ± 5 lbs. (New) Using Strand Tension Gauge A/C Compressor 65 lb. Min. 95+5 lbs. (Used) 140 + 5 lbs. (New) Using Strand Tension Gauge AIR CLEANER ® VALVE LASH Hydraulic - 1 turn down from zero lash IDLE RPM @ Syn. 700 900 800 Auto. 600 600 600 FUEL PUMP (?) Pressure in lbs. 3-1/2 to 4-1/2 5 to 6-1/2 7 to 8-1/2 Volume 1 pint in 30-45 seconds @ cranking speed CRANKCASE VENTILATION Replace at 24,000 miles (T) At cranking speed, throttle wide open-Maximum variation, 20 lbs. between cylinders. (2) At idle speed with vacuum advance line disconnected and plugged. (D CAUTION: In addition to its function of filtering air drawn into the engine through the carburetor, the air cleaner also acts as a flame arrestor in the event the engine backfires. Because backfiring may cause fire in the engine compartment, the air cleaner should be installed at all times unless its removal is necessary for repair or maintenance services. Paper Element Type - First 12,000 miles, inspect element for dust leaks, holes, or other damage and replace if necessary. If satisfactory, rotate element 180 from original installation position. Replace element at 24,000 miles. Element must not be washed, oiled, tapped, or cleaned with an air hose. If so equipped, replace P.C.V. breather filter every 24,000 miles (do not attempt to clean). If so equipped, clean wire mesh frame arrestor every 12,000 miles. Oil Bath Type - The oil level in the oil bath air cleaner reservoir should be checked every 12,000 miles and sufficient S.A.E. 50 oil added when temperature is above freezing or S.A.E. 20 oil added when temperature is below freezing. Adding oil and servicing the cleaner will vary greatly, depending upon operating conditions. (J) See “TUNE-UP” section. (5) Replace filter element located in carburetor inlet every 12 months or 12,000 miles, whichever occurs first.ENGINE: GENERAL DATA: Type In Line V8 Displacement (cu. in.) 250 307 350 Horsepower @ rpm 110 @ 3800 130 @ 4000 175 @ 4000 Torque @ rpm 185 @ 1600 230 @ 2400 290 @ 2400 Bore 3-7/8 Stroke 3.53 3.25 3.48 Compression Ratio 8.5:1 Firing Order 1-5-3-6-2-4 1-8-4-3-6-5-7-2 CYLINDER BORE: Diameter 3.8745 3.8775 3.8745 3.8775 3.9995 4.0025 Out of Round Production 0005 Max. .001 Max. Service .002 Max. Production Taper Thrust Side .0005 Max. Relief Side .0005 Max. .001 Max. Service .005 Max. PISTON: Clearance Production .0005-.0015 Service .0025 Max. .0007-.0013 .0027 Max. PISTON RING: Clearance Groove Production Top .0012-.0027 2nd .0012-.0032 .0012 .0032 Service Hi Limit Production + .001 Production Gap Top 2nd .010-.020 .010-.020 .013 .025 Service Hi Limit Production + .01 Groove Clearance Production .005 Max. .002-.007 Service Hi Limit Production + .001 Gap Production .015-.05 5 Service Hi Limit Production + .01 PISTON PIN: Diameter .9270-.9273 Clearance Production .00015-.00025 Service .001-Max. Fit in Rod .0008-.0016 Interference CRANKSHAFT: Main Journal Diameter All 2.2983 2.2993 #1-2-3A 2.4484-2.4493 m 2.4479-2.4488 Taper Out of Round Production .0002 Max. Service .001 Max. Production .0002 Max. Service .001 Max. Type In Line V8 Displacement (cu. in.) 250 307 350 Horsepower 110 130 175 CRANKSHAFT: Main Bearing Clearance Production All .0003 .0029 #1 .0003-.0015 #2-3-4 .0006-.0018 m .0008-.0023 Service #l-.002 Max. Others .0035 Max. Crankshaft End Play .002-.006 Crankpin Diameter 1.999 2.000 2.199-2.200 Taper Production .0003 Max. Service .001 Max. Out of Round Production .002 Max. Service .001 Max. Rod Bearing Clearance Production .0007 .0027 .0007-.0028 Service .0035 Max. Rod Side Clearance .009-.014 | .008-.014 CAMSHAFT: Lobe Lift ±.002" Intake .2217 .2600 Exhaust .2217 .2733 Journal Diameter 1.8682-1.8692 Camshaft Runout .015 Max. VALVE SYSTEM: Lifter Hydraulic Rocker Arm Ratio 1.75:1 | 1.50:1 Valve Lash Intake One Turn Down From Zero Lash Exhaust Face Angle (Int. & Exh.) 45° Seat Angle (Int. & Exh.) 46° Seat Runout (Int. & Exh.) .002 Max. Seat Wid th Intake 1/32-1/16 Exhaust 1/16-3/32 Production Int. .0010-.0027 Stem Clearanc Exh. .0015-.00321 .0010-.0027 Service Hi Limit Production + .001 Intake; +.002 Exhaust Valve Spring (Outer) Free Length 1.90 2.03 Load lbs. @ in. Valve Closed 54-64 @ 1.66 76-84 @1.70 Valve Open 180-192 @ 1.27 194-206 @ 1.25 Installed Height ±1/32" 1-21/32 1-23/32 Valve Spring (Inner) Free Length N.A. Pressure lbs. @ in. Closed N.A. Open N.A. Installed Height 11/32" N.A. Damper Free Length N.A. 1.94 Approx. #of Coils N.A. 4 ENGINE TORQUES Size Usage In Line V-8 250 307 350 1/4-20 Camshaft Thrust Plate 80 lb. in. Crankcase Front Cover 80 lb. in. Flywheel Housing Pans 80 lb. in. Oil Filler Bypass Valve | 80 lb. in. Oil Pan (To Crankcase) 80 lb. in. Oil Pan (To Front Cover) 55 lb. in. Oil Pump Cover 70 lb. in. 80 lb. in. Rocker Arm Cover 55 lb. in. 11/32-24 Connecting Rod Cap 35 lb. ft. 5/16-18 Camshaft Sprocket 20 lb. ft. Clutch Pressure Plate 20 lb. ft. Oil Pan (To Crankcase) 125 lb. in. 65 lb. in. Oil Pump 115 lb. in. Push Rod Cover 80 lb. in. Water Pump 15 lb. in. 3/8-16 Clutch Pressure Plate 35 lb. ft. Distributor Clamp 20 lb. ft. Flywheel Housing 30 lb. ft. Manifold (Exhaust) 20 lb. ft® Manifold (Exhaust to Inlet) 25 lb. ft. Manifold (Inlet) 30 lb. ft. Manifold-to-Head 30 lb. ft. Thermostat Housing 30 lb. ft. Water Outlet 3011 D. ft. Water Pump 30 lb. ft. 3/8-24 Connecting Rod Cap 45 lb. ft. 7/16-14 Cylinder Head 65 lb. ft. Main Bearing Cap 65 lb. ft. 70 lb. ft. Oil Pump 65 lb. ft. 7/16-20 Flywheel 60 lb. ft. 60 lb. ft. 1/2-13 Cylinder Head 95 lb. ft. 1/2-14 Temperature Sending Unit 20 lb. ft. 1/2-20 Oil Filter Hand Tight Oil Pan Drain Plug 20 lb. ft. 14mm 5/8 Spark Plug 15 lb. ft. 13/16 Spark Plug 25 lb. ft. ® Inside bolts on 307-350 engines 30 lb. ft.CARBURETORS SECTION 6M IDENTIFICATION Also refer to Rochester Carburetor Identification Illustration in the Overhaul Shop Manual. VEHICLES ENGINES TRUCK CARBURETORS Type Displacement and Type RPO BBL. All (Except Calif.) California Manual Auto. Manual Auto. 10-20 250 L-6 Base 1 7042021 7042022 7042991 7042992 30 250 L-6 Base 1 7042025 7042025 7042025 7042025 30 250 L-6 Base 1 7042021 7042022 7042991 7042992 10 307 V-8 Base 2 7042103 7042102 7042823 7042822 20-30 350 V-8 Base 4QJ 7042211 7042210 7042911 7042910 10 350 V-8 LS-9 4QJ 7042211 7042210 7042911 7042910 30 350 V-8 LS-9 4QJ 7042208 7042208 7042208 7042208 ADJUSTMENTS Rochester Carburetors M 0 D E L Number (A) Automatic Trans. (M) Manual Trans. Boat Level Float Drop Metering Rod Pump Rod Choke Rod (Fast Idle Cam 2nd. Step) Air Valve Dashpot Choke Vacuum Break Choke Unloader MV 7042021 (M) 1/4 .078 .150 .225 .500 MV 7042022 (A) 1/4 .079 .125 .190 .500 MV 7042025 (A) (M) H/D 1/4 .070 .180 .260 .500 2GV 7042102 (A) 21/32 1 9/32 1 5/16 .040 .080 .210 2GV 7042822 (A) 21/32 1 9/32 1 5/16 .040 .080 .210 2GV 7042103 (M) 21/32 1 9/32 1 5/16 .075 .110 .210 2GV 7042823 (M) 21/32 1 9/32 1 5/16 .075 .110 .210 4MV 7042208 (A) (M) H/D 3/16 3/8 .100 .020 .215 .450 4 M V 7042210 (A) H/D 3/16 3/8 .100 .020 .215 .450 4MV 7042211 (M) H/D 3/16 3/8 .100 .020 .215 .450 4MV 7042910 (A) H/D 3/16 3/8 .100 .020 .215 .450 4MV 704291 1 (M) H/D 3/16 3/8 .100 .020 .215 .450 HEAVY DUTY: (EMISSIONS DEFINITION) All C, K, P & G over 6,000 GVW except 06 and 16 C & K (Suburbans) and 06 and 36 G (Sportvans) which are “people carriers.” Refer to GVW plate for gross vehicle weight specified on a permanent plate attached to the vehicle body.ADJUSTMENTS (CONT'D.) SPECIFICATIONS 9 Fast Idle (Running) RPM Adjustment Carburetors - Rochester Vehicles MV 4QJ 2GV Auto. Man. Auto Man. Auto and Manual All Trucks 2400t * 1500 * 1350 *1850 (1-1/4 S.A.E) Tf1**** •**&»«* «• approximate /. . \ with low idle at 450 RPM -2200 (1-1/2 S.A.E) vi»cous clutch fans 1 a. b. b. a. disengaged. t With vaccum advance * Without vacuum advance a. On high step b. On second step NOTE: For vacuum advance for 1 bbl. carburetors - pull lead off of cold override switch and ground it -this will energize the C.E.C. valve. OTHER ADJUSTMENTS NOTE: Refer to “Additional External Settings and Adjustments” / or “Idle Stop Solenoid Adjustment and “C.E.C. Valve Adjustment”, as applicable, in Section 6M (Service Manual), under carburetors before using the following charts. NOTE: All Idle Speeds Listed Are To Be Set With Air Conditioning OFF. EQUIPMENT (See Note Above) Column No. 1 (See Note Above) Column No. 2 (See Note Above) Column No. 3 Transmission Engine Initial Curb Idle Speed (R.P.M.) Final Curb Idle Speed (R.P.M.) CEC Valve Engine Speed (R.P.M.) (Use Lean Drop Method - Except With A.I.R.) (4) m Manual f (Neutral) L-6 250 C.I.D. 800(1) L/D 775 (3) H/D 700(3) 1000 V-8 307 C.I.D. 1000(1) L/D 700(1) H/D 900 (3) L/D 600 (3) H/D — V-8 350 C.I.D. (LS-9) 1000(1) 900(3) — Automatic L-6 250 630 (1) L/D 600 (3) 650 (In Drive) C.I.D. 775 (3) H/D 700 Neutral for H/D V-8 307 C.I.D. 650 (1) L/D 700(1) H/D 600 (3)(1) — V-8 350 C.I.D. (LS-9) 630 (1) — — (1) Idle adjustment for vehicles equipped with A.I.R. is: 1/4 turn rich from lean roll (mixture screw). (2) With A.I.R. operating (if so equipped). (3) Set low idle, using idle speed screw or solenoid alien head screw adjustment (with solenoid de-energized), at 450 RPM. (4) CAUTION: If the C.E.C. valve (solenoid) on the carburetor is used to set engine idle or is adjusted out of limits specified in the Service Manual, decrease in engine braking may result. L/D Light Duty, H/D Heavy Duty - See truck identification.ENGINE ELECTRICAL SECTION 6Y BATTERY No. of Cranking Capacity 20 Model No. Application Plates Power (s’ Hour Rate Per Cell 0 ° F (Watts) (Amp. Hr.) 1980141 (Y-86) 250 L-6 Engines 9 2300 44 1980145 (R-88) 307 and 350 V-8 Engines 11 2900 61 1980182 (R-88X) T-60 Option 15 3750 76 GENERATORS Model No. Applications Delco Remy Spec. No. Field Current Amps.(80° F.) Cold Output* Rated Hot Output** Amps. Spec. Volts Amps @ 2000 RPM Amps @ 5000 RPM 1102452 GS Models 3395 2.2 - 2.6 14 25 35 37 1102440 GE Models 3395 2.2-2.6 14 25 35 37 1102453 GS 10-30 w/N40 (or) K19 3395 2.2-2.6 14 25 35 37 1102456 GS, K19w/N40/ N19 3395 2.2 -2.6 14 25 35 37 1102458 GS w/K79 3396 2.2-2.6 14 28 40 42 1102459 GE w/ K79 3396 2.2-2.6 14 28 40 42 1102455 GS w/K76 4500 2.2-2.6 14 33 58 61 1102463 GE w/K76, GE w/C62 4500 2.2 - 2.6 14 33 58 61 ♦Generator temperature approximately 80° F. ••Ambient temperature 80° F.DISTRIBUTORS Engine Description and Application Ignition Distributor (Product Part No.) Centrifugal Advance (Crank Degrees (§ Engine RPM) Vacuum Advance (In Crank Degrees) Point Dwell Setting Ignition Timing BTDC at Engine Idle* Transmission Original Equipment Spark Plug 250 Cu. In. L-6 10-20 Series 1110493 C-4797 0 @ 930 RPM 2° @1270 RPM 14° @ 2300 RPM 24° @4100 RPM C-3990 0 @ 8”Hg 23° @ 16”Hg 31°-34° 4° All AC-R46T 250 Cu. In. L-6 20-30 Series w/RPO NB2 1110498 C-3997 0 @ 8”Hg 16° @ 13”Hg 307 Cu. In. V-8 10 Series 1112040 C-4815 0 @ 680 RPM 2° @ 1320 RPM 20° @4200 RPM C-3954 0 @ 8”Hg 20° @ 17”Hg 29°.3i0 8° Automatic AC-R44T 307 Cu. In. V-8 10 Series 1112041 C-4753 0 @ 800 RPM 2° @1200 RPM 12° @2200 RPM 24° @4300 RPM C-3954 0 @ 8”Hg 20° @ 17”Hg 29°-31° 40 Manual AC-R44T 307 Cu. In.V-8 20-30 Series 1112043 C-4824 0 @ 800 RPM 2° @ 1200 RPM 11° @2100 RPM 20° @4200 RPM C-3036 0 @ 8”Hg 15° @ 15.5” Hg 29°-31° 40 All AC-R44T 350 Cu. In. V-8 RPOLS9 1112047 C-4818 0°@ 865 RPM 2° @1335 RPM 11° @2400 RPM 18° @4200 RPM C-3036 0 @ 8”Hg 15° @ 15.5” Hg 29°-31° 8° Automatic AC-R44T 350 Cu. In. V-8 RPOLS9 1112046 C-4753 0 @ 800 RPM 2° @ 1200 RPM 12° @2200 RPM 24° @4300 RPM C-3036 0 @ 8”Hg 15° @15.5” Hg 29° -31° 40 Manual AC-R44T •Refer to Vehicle Emission Control Information Sticker. IGNITION COIL Application Primary Resistance Secondary Resistance Ignition Resistor -Ohms- -Ohms- Type Ohms L-6 1.41-1.65 5400-7100 Fixed (In Wiring Harness) 1.8 V-8 1.24-1.46 7200-9500 VOLTAGE REGULATOR Model Field Relay Voltage Regulator No. Air Gap Point Opening Closing Voltage Air Gap Point Opening Voltage Setting 1119515 .015 .030 2.3-3.7 .067 .014 13.5-14.4 @125*F.TRANSMISSION AND CLUTCH SECTION 7 THREE SPEED SAGINAW Clutch Gear Retainer to Case Bolts ............................................................................................................15 ft. lbs. Side Cover to Case Bolts ........................................................................................................................15 ft. lbs. Fxtension to Case Bolts..........................................................................................................................45 ft. lbs. Shift Lever to Shifter Shaft Bolts ..............................................................................................................20 ft. lbs. Lubrication Filler Plug ..........................................................................................................................15 ft. Ibs. Transmission Case to C'lutch Housing Bolts....................................................................................................55 ft. lbs. Crossmember to Frame Nuts....................................................................................................................25 ft. lbs. Crossmember to Mount and Mount to Extension Bolts......................................................................................40 ft. lbs. Transmission Drain Plug ........................................................................................................................30 ft. lbs. THREE SPEED MUNCIE Clutch Gear Retainer to Case Bolts............................................................................................................15 ft. lbs. Side Cover to Case Bolts ........................................................................................................................15 ft. lbs. Fxtension to Case Bolts..........................................................................................................................45 ft. lbs. Shift Lever to Shifter Shaft Bolts ..............................................................................................................20 ft lbs. Lubrication Filler Plug ......................................................................................15 ft. lbs. Transmission Case to Clutch Housing Bolts....................................................................................................55 ft lbs. Crossmember to Frame Nuts....................................................................................................................25 ft. lbs. Crossmember to Mount and Mount to Fxtension Bolts......................................................................................40 ft. lbs. Transmission Drain Plug ........................................................................................................................30 ft. lbs. TURBO HYDRA-MATIC—350 Pump Cover to Pump Body....................................................................................................................17 ft. lbs. Pump Assembly to Case...............................................................................1 S'/i ft. lbs. Valve body and Support Plate ................................................................................................................130 in. lbs. Parking Lock Bracket..........................................................................................................................29 ft lbs. Oil Suction Screen..............................................................................................................................40 in. lbs. Oil Pan to Case..................................................................................................................................130 in. lbs. Fxtension to Case ..............................................................................................................................25 ft. lbs. Modulator Retainer to Case ..................................................................................................................130 in. lbs. Inner Selector Lever to Shaft..................................................................................................................25 ft. lbs. Detent Valve Actuating Bracket..............................................................................................................52 in. lbs. Converter to Flywheel Bolts..................................................................................................................35 ft. lbs. Under Pan to Transmission Case..............................................................................................................110 in. lbs. Oil Pan Drain Plug..............................................................................................................................20 ft. lbs. Transmission Case to Engine......................................................... 35 ft. lbs.STEERING SECTION 9 TORQUE CHART l ie Rod Ball Joint Nut Outer and Inner 10-50 20-30 35** lbs. ft. 45*** lbs. ft. Tie Rod Clamp Bolt 22 lbs. ft. Idler Arm Mounting Bolts 30 lbs. ft. Idler Arm to Relay Rod Nut 70 lbs. ft. Pitman Arm to Relay Rod Nut 70 lbs. ft. Pitman Arm to Pitman Shaft Nut 180 lbs. ft. power 140 lbs. ft. manual Steering Gear Mounting Bolts 110 lbs. ft. ■ Steering Wheel Nut 40 lbs. ft. Lower Mast Jacket Bearing Adjustment .50 + .04 Power Steering Belt Tension 125 lbs. New 75 lbs. Used Pump Pulley Nut 58 lbs. ft. Pump Pressure 900- 1000 psi. Pump Bracket . and Support 25 lbs. ft. Power Steering Hose Clamp Screws 15 lbs. in. Power Steering Gear Hose Fittings 25 lbs. ft. Power Steering Pump Hose Fittings 140 lbs. in. Flexible Coupling Bolt & Studs 18 lbs. in. Lower Mast Jacket Bearing Clamp or Coupling Bolt 30 lbs. ft. Lower Coupling to Wormshaft Clamp Bolt 30 lbs. ft. Toe Panel Cover Screws 30 lbs. in. Dash Panel Bracket Clamp Bolt 150 lbs. in. Lower Bearing Adjusting Ring Bolt 70 lbs. in. ** Plus Torque Required to Align Cotter Pin, Max. 50 lbs. ft. *** Plus Torque Required to Align Cotter Pin, Max. 60 lbs. ft. MANUAL STEERING GEAR Worm Bearing Preload 6 to 11 lbs. in Worm Bearing Lock Nut 85 lbs. ft. Over Center Adjustment 5 to 11 lbs. in.* Over Center Lock Nut 30 lbs. ft. Total Steering Gear 1 Preload 18 lbs. in. Max. * In excess of worm bearing preload. v>\SECTION 9 (CONT'D.) POWER STEERING GEAR ALL Steering Gear Ball Drag 3 in. lbs. Max. Thrust Bearing Preload lA to 2 in. lbs.* Adjuster Plug Locknut 80 ft. lbs. Over-Center Preload 3 - 6 in. lbs.** Over-Center Adjusting Screw Locknut 25 ft. lbs. Total Steering Gear Preload 14 in. lbs. Max. * In excess of ball drag ** In excess of ball drag and thrust bearing preload. STEERING GEAR RATIOS GEAR OVERALL Manual 29.5:1 Gear 24:1 to 37.0:1 Power 21.5:1 Gear 17.5:1 to 27.0:1WHEELS AND TIRES SECTION 10 WHEELS Wheel Nut Torques SERIES DESCRIPTION TORQUE G10 7/16” Bolts (6) 55-75 Ft. Lbs. G20 1/2” Bolts (5) 65-90 Ft. Lbs. G30 9/16” Bolts (8) 90-120 Ft. Lbs. BODY AND CHASSIS ELECTRICAL SECTION 12 WINDSHIELD WIPERS Two-Speed Wiper Crank Arm Speed (RPM's)(No Load) Lo............................. Hi............................. Current Draw. AMPS No Load (Lo Speed)............... . ... 5.5 Max. Stall ......................... 21 Washer Number of “squirts” at full pressure..... .... 12 Pressure (PSI) ...................... .. . .11-15 Coil Resistance (ohms) ............... .... 20 LAMP USAGE * CP = Candle Power W = Watts Application Trade Number Rating* Dome Lights 211 12CP License Plate Lamp 67 4CP Parking and Direction Signal Tail, Stop and Direction Signal 1157 4-3 2CP Turn Signal Indicator Upper Beam Indicator 168 3CP Radio Dial Lamp 1893 2CP Instrument Illumination 194 2CP Temperature Tell-Tale Oil Pressure Tell-Tale Generator Tell-Tale High Beam 6014 60W High Beam Low Beam 50W Low Beam Back-Up Lamp 1156 32CP FUSE AND CIRCUIT BREAKER USAGE Applicability Location Amps Type Instrument Cluster Feed Fuse block in driver’s compartment 3 3AG/AGC Panel Lights 3 3AG/AGC Wiper Motor 20 SFE/SAE Air Conditioning 25 3AG/AGC Heater Motor 15 3AG/AGC Backup Lamps 10 3AG/AGC Tail, Stop, Dome, License Lamps Marker Lights Spotlamp, Park Lamps 20 SAE/SFE Radio - TCS 3 3AG/AGC Hazard Flash 15 3AG/AGC Headlamps Light Switch 15 Cir. break. Ammeter In-line Part of Gen. & Fwd. lamp harness (2 reqd.) 4 3AG/AGCSPECIFICATIONS 16 RADIATOR AND GRILLE SECTION 13 TORQUE SPECIFICATIONS Grille to Upper Tie Bar......................................................................................................................................20 ft. lbs. Grille to SiU . . . ..........................................................................................................................................20 ft. lbs. Emblem to Grille ........................................................................................40 in lbs. Upper Radiator Retainer to Tie Bar........................................................................................................................20 ft. lbs. Drain Cock..........................................................................120 in. lbs. Finger Guard to Tie, Bar......................................................................................................................................20 ft. lbs. Fan Shroud to Radiator Retainer ..............................................................................50 in. lbs. BUMPER SECTION 14 TORQUE SPECIFICATIONS Front Face Bax to Bracket ................................................................. 28 ft. lbs Bracket to Cross Sill..................................................................... 28 ft. lb License Plate Bracket to Face Bar.............................................................100 in. lbs Rear Face Bar to Brackets ................................................................. 28 ft. lbs Bracket to Cross Sill..................................................................... 28 ft. lbsDRILL SIZES Letter Sizes Drill Diam. Inches Wire Gage Sizes Drill Diam. Inches Wire Gage Sizes Drill Diam. Inches Wire Gage Sizes Drill Diam. Inches Z 0.413 1 0.2280 28 0.1405 55 0.0520 Y 0.404 2 0.2210 29 0.1360 56 0.0465 X 0.397 3 0.2130 30 0.1285 57 0.0430. w 0.386 4 0.2090 31 0.1200 58 0.0420 V 0.377 5 0.2055 32 0.1160 59 0.0410 u 0.368 6 0.2040 33 0.1130 60 0.0400 T 0.358 7 0.2010 34 0.1110 61 0.0390 S 0.348 8 0.1990 35 0.1100 62 0.0380 R 0.339 9 0.1960 ,36 0.1065 63 0.0370 Q 0.332 10 0.1935 37 0.1040 64 0.0360 p 0.323 11 0.1910 38 0.1015 65 0.0350 0 0.316 12 0.1890 39 0.0995 66 0.0330 N 0.302 13 0.1850 40 0.0980 67 0.0320 M 0.295 14 0.1820 41 0.0960 68 0.0310 L 0.290 15 0.1800 42 0.0935 69 0.0292 K 0.281 16 0.1770 43 0.0890 70 0.0280 J 0.277 17 0.1730 44 0.0860 71 0.0260 1 0.272 18 0.1695 45 0.0820 72 0.0250 H 0.266 19 0.1660 46 0.0810 73 0.0240 G 0.261 20 0.1610 47 0.0785 74 0.0225 F 0.257 21 0.1590 48 0.0760 75 0.0210 E 0.250 22 0.1570 49 0.0730 76 0.0200 D 0.246 23 0.1540 50 0.0700 77 0.0180 C 0.242 24 0.1520 51 0.0670 78 0.0160 B 0.238 25 0.1495 52 0.0635 79 0.0145 A 0.234 26 0.1470 53 0.0595 80 0.0135 27 0.1440 54 0.0550 DECIMAL EQUIVALENTS ’-44 ............. ...............015625 "A* .................... ........515625 Vto ............. ..............03125 '%2 .................... ........53125 *4 ............. ..............046875 JK4 .................... ........546875 Vi* ............. ..............0625 9/w .................... ........5625 sAa ............. ..............078125 5 £4 .................... ........578125 3/*2 ............. ..............09375 ,9/3J .................... ........59375 7A* ............. ............. .109375 S%4 .................... ........609375 ’/•............. ..............125 S/8 .................... ........625 %4 ............. ..............140625 4'Ai .................... ....... .640625 */4l ............. ..............15625 J,/S: .................... ........65625 "><4 ............. ..............171875 .................... ........671875 3/»* ............. ..............1875 "A .................... ........6875 "A* ............. ..............203125 <*4 .................... ........703125 %: ............. ..............21875 23/lJ .................... ........71875 ,J/<4 ............. ..............234375 47A* .................... ........734375 % ............. ..............25 Va .................... ........75 ............. ............. .265625 *9A* .................... ........765625 %2 ............. ..............28125 ”/» .................... ........78125 '%4 ............. ..............296875 5Vi4 .................... ........796875 Vm ............. ..............3125 ,3/>* .................... ........8125 2Vi4 ............. ..............328125 S%4 .................... ........828125 "M ............. ..............34375 J7/J2 .................... ........84375 JJ/i4 ............. ..............359375 J*4 .................... ........859375 y»............. ............. .375 7/s .................... ........875 iSA* ............. ..............390625 S7A* .................... ........890625 13Ai ............. ..............40625 i9/n .................... ....... .90625 17A* .............. ..............421875 S9A* .................... ........921875 7A* ............. ..............4375 ,S/l6 .................... ........9375 39Aa ............. ..............453125 6'A* .................... .953125 ,J/J2 ............. ..............46875 3,/32 .................... ........96875 J,/i4 ............. ..............484375 6'Ai .................... ....... .984375 Vi ............. ..............5 1 .................... ftU.S GOVERNMENT PRINTING OFFICE! 9 8<+ -7U6 -0 0 4/ 12521 REGION NO. 4