I ILLINOI S UNIVERSITY OF ILLINOIS AT URBANA-CHAMPAIGN PRODUCTION NOTE University of Illinois at Urbana-Champaign Library Brittle Books Project, 2013. COPYRIGHT NOTIFICATION In Public Domain. Published prior to 1923. This digital copy was made from the printed version held by the University of Illinois at Urbana-Champaign. It was made in compliance with copyright law. Prepared for the Brittle Books Project, Main Library, University of Illinois at Urbana-Champaign by Northern Micrographics Brookhaven Bindery La Crosse, Wisconsin 2013 1 - - ' - -~ i' - - _ _.r li,:;;:,,,,,ili - :~lr:;--: - - - - .,,,-iii::ril;~~ii':'l ;I.._.. _ ,",rr i;:l ii~l-l,: . __ :.. ' ".-.i.r;;;; ;_J ;-';;-~:: l. c-.-:--:-_l. -I:::i .Il''i'::~~~:~-li ;Ii; , -2 E: i t;--.-~i~fi ii ~i;-j;r~ ~~~j:5~~~~~~- i - - - .. _';.l;-;''"" ":'rr: .:rr:::1;,; : ;, - . _ -.. - _' '~'~"-i.. . i.i .;;;;~-;;.- i; -;-- UNIVERSITY OF ILLINOIS LIBRARY AT URBANA-CHAMPAIGN - BOOKSTACKS .. .. .. }#!;; POPULA R INTELLECTUAL ABERCR PowE THE, ESOP'S JAME Svo. BYRON'1 cuts. COLERI] trait. DAVY'S JOHN September, 1868. H2! HC MI SO' NA RE AR A 3 LTON EX tEV. H. Post 3. By- 5. Post 7 .J.P�_ j. .f Q~ HANDBOOK FOR TRAVELLERS 'IN EGYPT. n LONDO : PRINTED BY W. CLOWES AND SONS, STAMFORD STREET, AND CHARING CROSS. HANDBOOK FOR TRAVELLERS EGYPT; T41 COURSE OF THE N LE TO TRE SECOND CATARACT, ALEXANDRIA, CAIR0, TIlE PYRAMIDS, AND THEBES, T1E OVERLAND TRANSIT TO INDIA, THE PENINSULA OF MOUNT SINAI, THE OASES, &c. CONDENSED FROM ' MODERN EGtYPT AND T]EBES' 1B sI 1 G4PWI7 WZ4I NSON, D.., VS$ MALJAKRRiGA, ThlEJLA.. ket. COn. It, TRE t lREi' AC(A SO 0? OF VMSA. AND) Th& U. A. OP' TV$114 Ao. A NEW ETIto, WITH CRRECTIQN AND ADOW4ONe. (tMunwAOAO BOOKS U s a weA sesVAU ents LON ON: JOHN MURRAY, ALBEMARLE STREET. PARIS GALIGNANI; STASSIN & XAVIER. MALTA: UIRB. 1867. HSeip of iaraus oa ms ered. Al C A B BI CA CC CC DI F G T H. B Bt CO CC C G L THE ENGLISH EDITIONS OF MURRAY'S HANDBOOKS MAY BE OBTAINED OF FOLLOWING AGENTS :- Germany, Holland, and Belgium. X-LA- HEIDELBERG. MOHR. HAPELLE * IA. MAYER KISSINGEN . C. JUGEL. MSTERDAM. J. MULLER.-W. KIRBERGER. LEIPZIG . . BROCKHAUS.-DURR -VAN BAKKENESS. LUXEMBOURG BUCK. NTWERP MAX. KORNICKER. MANNHEIM . ARTARIA & FONTAII ADEN-BADEN D. R. MARX. MAYENCE , VON ZARERN. ERLIN . . ASHER. MUNICH . . LITERARISCH.-ARTI: RUSSELS . MUQUARDT.- KIESSLING -ANSTALT.-I. PA & CO. NURNBERG , SCHRAG. RLSRUHE . A. BIELEFELD. PESTH . HARTLEBEN,- )BLENTZ G. HECKENAST. LOGNE. EISEN. PRAGUE . CA LVECENAST. RESDEN . ARNOLD. ROTTERDAM . KRAMERS.-PETRI, RANKFURT . C. JIGEL. STUTTGART . P. NEFF. RATZ . . DAMIAN & SORGE. TRIESTE. . MUNSTER. HE HAGUE VAN STOCKUM. VIENNA . . C. GEROLD.-BRAUMI AMBURG . PERTHES, BESSER, -STERNICKEL MAUKE. WIESBADEN . UPRANY & HENDSCI Switzerland. ASLE . . H. GEORG.-H. AMBERGER. LUCERNE. . P. KAISER. ERNE . WIRTERUH--GANDARD. NEUCHATEL . GERSTER. )IRE . . GRUBENMANN. SCHAFFHAUSEN HURTER. ONSTANCE . MECK. SOLEURE. . JENT. ENEVA. . H1. GEORG.-DESROGIS.- ST. GALLEN . HUBER. CHERBULIEZ.-GEX.-- ZURICH . * H. FUSSLI & CO.-ME MONROE.-GHISLETTY. & ZELLER. AUSANNE . MARTINIER & CHAVANNES.- H. F. LEUTHOLD, P( T. ROUSSY. STRASSE. I BOLOGNA . M. RUSCONI. FLORENCE . GOODBAN. GENOA . . GRANDONA & CO.-ANTOINE BEUF.-T. D. ROSSI. LEGHORN . MAZZA IOLI. LUCCA . . F. BARON. MANTUA . NEGRETTI. MILAN . ARTARIA & SON.-DUMOLARD FRERES.-MOLINARI. MODENA. . VINCENZI & ROSSI. NAPLES . . DETKEN. -DUFRESNE.- PEDONE. PALERMO . PEDONE. AMIENS . . CARON. ANGERS . . BARASSE'. AVIGNON . CLE'MENT ST. JUST. AVRANCHES . ANFRAY. BAYONNE . JAYMEBON.-LASSERRE. BORDEAUX . CHAUMAS.-MULLER.-SAU- VAT.-FERET. BOULOGNE . WATEL.-MERRIDEW. BREST . . HEBERT. CAEN . . BOISARD.-LEGOST.--CLE.- RISSE?. CALAIS . . RIGAUX CAUX. CHERBOURG . MLLE. LECOUFFLET. DIEPPE . . MARAIS. DINANT . . COSTE. DOUAI . JACQUART.-LEMALE. DUNKERQUE. VANDENBUSSCHE. GRENOBLE , VELLOT ET COMP. HAVRE . . COCHARD.-BOURDIGNON.- FOUCHER.-MME. BUYS. LILLE . . BEIGHIN. LYONS . . AYNE' FILS.-SCHEURING.- ME'RA. MARSEILLES . CAMOIN FRERES.-LE MEUNIER. METZ . . WARION. %GIBRALTAR . ROWSWELL, LISBON . , MATT. LEWTAS. ST. PETERS- BURG. J Malta. MUIR. taly. PARMA PISA . PERUGIA. ROME . SIENA . TURIN VENICE VERONA . J. ZANGHIERI. . NISTRI.-JOS. VANNU . VINCENZ. BARTELLI. . SPITHiOVER.-PIALE.- MONALDINI. - ONORATO PORRI. - MAGGI.-GIANNINI I MARI ETTI.-BOCCA I . HERMAN F. MfJNSTF MEINERS. . H. F. M~NSTER. -M] (nce. MONTPELLIER LEVALLE MULHOUSE . RISLER. NANCY . . GONET. NANTES . . GUE'RARD.-PETIPAS.. POIRIER LEGROS.- DRE'.-MMe. VLOOR NICE . . VISCONTI.-GIRAUD.- JOUGLA. ORLEANS. . GATINEAU.-PESTY. PARIS . . GALIGNANI. -XAVIER PAU . , LAFON.-AUG. BASSY. PERPIGNAN . JULIA FRERES. REIMS . . BRISSART BINET.-- GEOFFROY. ROCHEFORT . BOUCARD. ROUEN . . LEBRUMENT.-HAULA SAUMUR. . GAULTIER BRIE'RE. ST. ETIENNE . DELARUE. ST. MALO. . HUE. ST. QUENTIN . DOLOY. STRASBOURG . TREUTTEL ET WURTZ GRUCKER. TOULON . . MONGE ET VILLAMUS. TOULOUSE . GIMET & COTELLE. TOURS . . GEORGET. TROYES . LALOY.-DUFEY ROBER; Spain and Portugal. MADRID . . DURAN -BAILLIERE. MALAGA. . FR. DE MOYA. Russia. MOSCOW . . W. GAUTIER. I ODESSA . . CAMOIN FRERES. Ionian Islands. Constantinople. Greece CORFU . J. W. TAYLOR. WICK. ATHENS . A CONTENTS. INTRODUCTION. a. Journey from England to Egypt.- b. Expenses to Egypt by France.- c. Steamers from Marseilles to Egypt.-d. Steamers from England, by Gibraltar and Malta, to Alexandria and India. - e. Arrival at Malta, and sights there. -f. Things that should be bought in England for the Nile journey. -g. Steamers from Trieste .. .. .. .. .. .. Page xi-xix SECT. I.-EGYPT. PRELIMINARY INFORMATION. Page a. Season for visiting Egypt-Time required-Expenses of the journey (see Page Sect. II. g).-b. Things useful for the journey in Egypt.-c., Mode of living in Egypt, and diseases of the country. - d. Dress.- e. Presents. - f. Passport.-g. Money.- h. Weights and Measures.- i. Post Office.- k. Population and Revenue. -1. Family of Mohammed All. - m. Chro- nological Table. - n. List of Caliphs and Sultans of Egypt. - o. Certain points requiring examination. -p. English and Arabic Vocabulary .. 1 ROUTE 1.-London to Alexandria ... .. .. ... .. ..... .. . 67 ALEXANDRIA. 1. Arrival at Alexandria. - 2. Hotels. - 3. Servants - 4. Boats. - 5. Things to be purchased at Alexandria for the journey to Cairo.- 6. History of Alexandria.- 7. Plan of Alexandria, and site and de- scription of the buildings. - 8. Monuments outside the Canopic gate. - 9. Present remains of ancient Alexandria.-10. Its size and importance. -11. Inhabitants.-12. Climate - The Lake Mareotis - Canals.-13. The two Ports, Gates, Walls - The old Docks.-14. Mosks and other buildings within the walls.- 15. Amusements and sights in modern Alexandria ...... .... ...... .. ........ ... 67 ROUTE 2.-Alexandria to Rosetta, by land . ... .. . .. .. ... 95 ROUTE 3.-Rosetta to Atfeh and Cairo, by the Nile .. .. .. .. .. 98 ROUTE 4.-Alexandria to Cairo, by land, through the Delta .. .... 99 ROUTE 5.-Alexandria to Cairo, by the western bank ....... .. .. 99 ROUTE 6.-Alexandria to Atfeh and Cairo, by the Canal and the Nile .. 99 ROUTE 7.-Alexandria to Cairo, by the Railroad .... .. . .. .... 107 CONTENTS. SECT. II.-CAIRO; with a Map. Page a. Hotels. - b. Houses. - c. Servants. - d. Horses, asses, carriages. - e. Places of public resort. -f. Quickest mode of seeing Cairo and the neighbourhood. -g. Boats. -- h. History of Cairo. - i. The citadel. - j. Oriental character of the town. - k. Mosks - Early pointed arches - Morostin, or madhouse - Bab Zoodyleh. -1. Tombs of the Caliphs of Egypt. - m. Tombs of the Baharite Memlook kings - n. Tombs of the Circassian Memlook kings - Tombs of the Memlooks. - o. Sibedls, or public fountains. -p. Palaces.- q. Streets. - r. Cafes - Punch. s. Baths. - t. Slave-market. - u. Baziars - Prices of goods at Cairo. - v. Quarters of Cairo. - w. Walls and extent of Cairo - Canal.- x. Gates. - y. Antiquities in Cairo. - z. Population - Dogs. - aa. Fes- tivals and sights at Cairo - Pilgrimage to Mecca - Opening the canal at Old Cairo - The Prophet's birthday - Fetes. - bb. The Magician. - cc. Institutions of Mohammed All - Schools. - dd. Internal administra- tion - Police - Courts of justice. - ee. The Mahkemeh, or Cadi's court 109 Excursion 1.-- a. Old Cairo.- b. Nilometer and Isle of Roda. - c. Kasr el Ainee and College of Derwishes - Kasr Dubarra . . ..... .. 143 Excursion 2. -- a. Heliopolis (Matareeh) - Balsam plants. - b. Lake of the Pilgrims - Old Jewish towns - Red gritstone mountain. - c. Petrified wood .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. ...... .. .... 151 Excursion 3.- Gardens and palace of Shoobra . ..... .. ...... 156 Excursion 4. -Pyramids of Geezeh, Sakkara, and Memphis-a. Things required in going to the Pyramids. - b. Village of Geezeh -Egg ovens. ---c. History of the Pyramids. - d. Great Pyramid.- e. Second Pyra- mid. -f. Third Pyramid - Small Pyramids. - g. Sphinx. -- h. Tombs.- i. Causeway. -j. Small Pyramids, near that of Cheops -Nature of the rock. - k. Date of the Pyramids.- 1. Pyramid of Aboorosh. - m. The two Arab bridges. - n. Busiris. - o. Pyramids of Aboosier. -p. Pyra- mids of Sakkira - Tombs. - q. Pyramids of Dashdor. - r. Memphis - Name of the hill of the Pyramids .. . .... ............... 157 ROUTE 7. - Cairo to Suez. - a. Various roads. - b. Distances - Remarks on the road - Suez - Passage of the Red Sea by the Israelites - El Muktala- Kolzim -The ancient canal of Arsino - Heroipolis .. .. 191 RoUTE 8. - Cairo to Mount Sinai - Charges for camels - Tricks of the Arabs - Names of the Arab tribes - Requisites for the journey - Distances - Manna - Remarks on the road - Saribut el Khidem - Names of ancient Pharaohs - Convent of St. Catherine - Burning Bush - Rock of Moses - Town of Tor - Primitive and other mountains .. 197 ROUTE 9.- Mount Sinai to El Akba - Distances - Aila, or Eloth - Journey to Petra, or Wadie Moosa - Distances to Petra, Hebron, and Jerusalem .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. 205 ROUTE 10. - Cairo to Syria - Distances - Daphne, Pelusium --- Tomb of Pompey- El Areesh - Gaza (Ghuzzeh) . . .... ........ 206 ROUTE 11.- Cairo, by water, to Damietta - Distances - Bershoom - Benha-el-Assal (Athribis) - Semenood - Bebayt-el-Hagar (Iseum) - vi Page Mansodra-- Damietta - Other towns in the Delta -- Fetes of Shekhs - Trilinguar stones- Divisions of the Delta . ... . .. .... .. . 208 ROUTE 12.- Cairo, by water, to Menzaleh and Tanis - Distances - Manso6ra to Menzaleh - Tel et-Mai (Thmuis) - Papyrus - Canal of Menzaleh -Land of the Delta - Menzaleh and the neighbourhood - Matarh -- Fish -Lake Menzaleh -- Water-fowl --Ruins of Tanis .. 215 ROUTE 13. - Cairo, by water, to Bubastis, Pharbaethus, and Tanis - Dis- tances-Canal of Moixz-Ruins of Bubastis, now Tel Basta- Zal.kazeek - Harbayt (Pharbathus) ....... ... .. . . . . ....... 220 ROUTE 14. - Cairo to the Natron Lakes - Distances - Natron springs - Convents - Productions - Animals - Petrified wood - The Bahr el Fargh, or Bahr-bela-ma .... .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. 223 ROUTE 15.- Cairo to the Seewah, or Oasis of Ammon --- Distances. - a. Routes to the Oasis. - b. Road from Alexandria. - c. From Terineh. -d. From the Fyoom -Ruins - Dates - Government and customs of Seewah - Language -Town of Seewah - Conquered by Mohammed Ali 230 ROUTE 16. - Cairo, by land, to the Fyoom.--a. Roads to the Fyoom.- b. Distances from Cairo to Medeeneh - Tomeh - Senooris - Biahmoo (ruins) - Medeeneh - The Arsinoite nome. - c. Excursions from Me- deeneh-Obelisk at Biggig.-d. Lake Moeris or Birket el Korn-Ruins at Kom Weseem - at El Hammam--at Dimay, or Nerba. --e. Kasr Kharoon - Temple and other ruins - Nezleh - Large canal - Sites of old towns - El Gherek .. .... ........... .. .. 233 ROUTE 17.- Medeeneh (in the Fyoom) to Benisooef (on the Nile) -. Distances - Pyramid of Hawara and site of the Labyrinth - Pyramid of Illahoon - Bahr Yoosef .... .. ...... .... .. .. ...'240 ROUTE 18.-Cairo to the Little Oasis, the Great Oasis, and the Oasis of Dakhleh, by the Fyoom. - a. Different roads to the Oasis. - b. Re- quisites for the journey. - c. Distances. - d. Wadee Ryan, and Moileh. - e. Little Oasis - Ruins - Warm springs - Dates - Palm-wine - Gardens - Origin of the springs - Inhabitants - Distances in this Oasis. -f. Small Oasis of El Hayz. - g. Oasis of Farafreh. - h. Oasis of the Blacks. - i. Oasis of Dakhleh - Ruins - Population - Productions. - 5. The Great Oasis, or Wah el Khargeh- Temple of Ain Amoor on the road to it - Columbaria and other ruins in the Great Oasis - The great Temple, name of Darius, inscriptions - Christian inscriptions and tombs - Caravans from Dar-Foor - Population - Productions. - k. Distances in the Great Oasis, going to its southern extremity - Temples of Kasr el Goaytah, and Kasr Ain e' Zayn- Tomb of Emeer Khiled-Temple of Doosh. -1. Road to Abydus. - m. Road to Esnd .. ...... .. .241 ROUTE 19.- Cairo to the Convents of St. Antony and St. Paul, in the Eastern Desert - Distances - The Arab tribes - Convents of St. Antony and St. Paul- Alabaster quarries- Primitive and secondary mountains -Gebel e' Zayt - Porphyry quarries - Ruins of Myos Hormos - Granite quarries and ruins"at Fateereh- Old Kossayr (Philoteras Portus) -Modern Kossayr - Wadee Jasoos .... .. . . .... 252 (For the Desert south of Kossayr, see Routes 26 and 27.) CONTENTS. vii viii CONTENTS. SECT. III.-UPPER EGYPT, BETWEEN CAIRO AND THEBES. Page Preliminary information. - a. The Saeed, or Upper Egypt. - b. Denomi- nations of towns, &c. - c. Ancient divisions of Egypt - Ancient towns on the Nile, mentioned in the Itinerary of Antoninus. -d. Egyptian;, temples, their plans, and principal features ........... . 256 ROUTE 20. - Cairo to Benisooef by water -- Attar-e'Nebbee - Toora - El Misarah and ancient quarries-Helwan-Dyke of Menes-Pyramids of Lisht -False Pyramid- Atfih - Boosh - Benisooef- Beggars .. 261 ROUTE 21. - Benisooef to Minieh - Anasieh (Heracleopolis) - Bibbeh - El Haybee, small ancient town - Gebel Shekh Embarak - Excursion to Behnesa, inland, from Aboo Girgeh - Gebel e' Tayr, convent- Gisr el Agoos -- Tdhneh (Acoris), inscriptions, quarries - Minieh .. .. .. 267 ROUTE 22. -Minieh to Sioot - Kom A1.mar, grottoes (Alabastron ?) - Curious sculptured grottoes of Beni Hassan -The Speos Artemidos - Shekh Abideh (Antinob) - Sculptured grottoes of E' Dayr e' Nakhl, Colossus on a sledge - Reramoon - Oshmoonayn (Hermopolis) - Gebel Toona - Mellawee -Sculptured grottoes and remains at Tel el Amarna - Dmin-trees - Gebel Aboofayda - Crocodiles - Ruins at El Hareib - Crocodile mummy pits of El Maibdeh - Manfaloot - Mankabat - Sioot, sculptured grottoes .... .. .. .. .. ... ....... 277 ROUTE 23. -Sioot to Girgeh-Abooteeg (Abutis)-Gow, or Kow el Keber (Antaeopolis) - Gebel Shekh Hereedee, Snake - Itfoo (Aphroditopolis) - Soohag - The White Monastery, Athribis, ruins - Ekhmim (Pano- polis), ruins - Menshedh (Ptolemais-Hermii) - Girgeh or Geergeh - Excursion from Girgeh to Abydus, ruins .... .. .. . . .. .. 299 ROUTE 24. - Girgeh to Keneh - Bellianeh - Samhood - Farshoot - The Howira horsemen - Great bend of the Nile at How (Diospolis Parva), few ruins - Kasr e' Syad, old catacombs - Isle of Tabenna - Dendera S(Tentyris), temples - The Tentyrites; crocodiles -- Keneh ...... 311 ROUTE 25. - Keneh to Thebes - Ballas - Koft (Coptos), few remains - Koos (Apollinopolis Parva), few remains - Shenhoor, a small Roman temple - Gamdla - Medamot, temple ...... ...... .. . 318 SECT. IV.-THEBES. Preliminary information.-a. Arrival at Thebes. - b. Quickest mode of seeing Thebes .. .. .... .. .. .. .. .. .. .... 322 THEBES. 1. Temple-Palace at Old Koorneh. - 2. Memnonium, or Remeseum. - 3. The two Colossi- The vocal Memnon. -4. Rise of the land. - 5. Temples at Medeenet Haboo - The great temple; battle scenes. - 6. Other ruins-Lake of Haboo. -7. Tombs of the Queens. -8. Other tombs -Small brick Pyramid. -9. Dayr el Medeineh. - 10. Dayr el Bihree.- 11. Tombs of the Kings. - 12. Tombs in the western valley. 13. Tombs of priests and private individuals - Arched tombs - The oldest tombs - Large tombs of the Assaseef- Tombs of Koornet Mur- Page raee -Tombs of Shekh Abd-el-Koorneh, the most interesting at Thebes 14. Eastern bank-Luxor, temple. -15. Karnak, temples. -16. Com- parative antiquity of the buildings-Names of foreign kings.- 17. His- torical sculptures .. .. .. .. ... .. .. . .......... 324 ROUTE 2.--- Keneh to Kossayr, by the Moayleh, or Moileh, road .... 382 RouT&27.- Keneh to Kossayr, by the Russafa road ...... .. .. 383 ROUTE 28. - Thebes to Kossayr - Several roads from the Nile to Kossayr - The Russafa road - Ancient road and stations - Breccia quarries, small temple, and names of kings in Wadee Foakhier - Arrival from India at Kossayr - Hints for those coming from India - The Ababdeh desert - Gold-mines - Ancient stations on the Coptos road to Berenice - Berenice - Basanite mountain - Nechesia - Leucos Portus - Eme- rald-mines - Ancient road from Contra-Apollinopolis to those mines, small temple - The Bishiree, or Bishardih tribe of Arabs ...... 383 ROUTE 29. - Thebes to Asouan, the first Cataract, Elephantine, Sehayl, and Philme - Erment (Hermonthis), few remains - Tuot (Tuphium), small temple - Crocodilopolis - Tofndes - E'snd (Latopolis), fine portico, Zodiac -El Helleh (Contra-Laton) -Pyramid of El Koola - Kom el Ahmar (Hieraconpolis), few ruins- Sandstones -El Kab (Eilei- thyias), ruins; natron; curious painted grottoes - Edfoo (Apollinopolis Magna), temples - Hagar Silsileh (Silsilis), sandstone quarries, grot- toes, and tablets; the god Nilus - Kom Ombo (Ombos), temples- Sandstones and granites-- Asouan (Syene); supposed tropical well; Sa- racenic wall and tombs; granite quarries of Syene; Syenite - Island of Elephantine; nilometer - Island of Sehyl - First Cataract - Isle of Philme, temples, and other ruins - Isle of Biggeh .... .. .... 388 SECT. V.-NUBIA. Preliminary observations. - a. Conquests of the Egyptians and Romans above Phile and the first Cataract.- b. The modern Nubians, or Baribras .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. 410 ROUTE 30. - Asouan (by Philae) to Derr, by water - Dabd (Parem- bole), temple -Old wall, column, remains of a temple -Gertassee, small ruin, quarry, stone enclosure - Wadee Tifa (Taphis), stone ruins - Kalibshee (Talmis), temple, inscription of King Silco, and others - Bayt el Wellee, temple - Dendoor, temple; sandstone pier - Gerf Hos- sdyn (Tutzis), temple -Kostamneh, doorway-Dakkeh (Pselcis), temple, Ergamenes king of Ethiopia - Modern Amazons- The White and Blue (properly black) Nile - Inscriptions, God of Pselcis - Contra-Pselcis, ruins - Korti, small ruin - Maharraka (Hierasycaminon), ruins - Saboda, temple - Bend of the river- El Kharib - A'mada, temple - Derr, the capital of Nubia, temple . .. .. ... .. ... .... .. . 413 ROUTE 31.- Derr to Aboo-Simbel and Wadee Halfa- Grotto on road to Ibreem - Tomb near Gattey - Ibreem (Primis Parva), citadel, few remains, Petronius and Candace, grottoes - Bostin - Reefs at Tosko - Aboo-Simbel (Aboccis?), two fine temples - Ferayg, small temple-- Faras-Serra-Wadee Halfa-Second Cataract-Semneh, two temples 423 INDEX .. .. .... .. .. .. .... .. .... ... .... 431 a 3 CONTENTS. 1X INTRODUCTION. . Journey from England to Egypt - b. Expenses to Egypt by France. - c. Steamers from Marseilles to Egypt. - d. Steamers from England by Gibraltar and Malta to Alexandria and India. - e. Arrival at Malta, and sights there.- f. Things that should be bought in England jbr the Nile journey. --g. Steamers from Trieste. a. JOURNEY FROM ENGLAND TO EGYrPT. The most usual route from England to Egypt is by Gibraltar and Malta, or through France by Paris and Marseilles, and thence to Malta and Alexandria. There is another route through Germany by the Danube to Constantinople, and thence by Syra to Alexandria, which has been described in the Handbooks of Southern Germany, and of the East; and those who happen to be in the vicinity of the Adriatic, and do not wish to cross Italy to Naples or other ports in direct com- munication with Malta, may find their way by the Ionian Islands and Greece to Egypt; or by the Austrian steamer direct from Trieste to Alexandria. It is now quite unnecessary to be provided with letters to Egypt; and there are few things that need be taken from England except a gun, instruments, and those mentioned at the end of this Introduction. Many of these, too, will depend on the wants of the traveller, and he may really now go to Egypt without taking anything more with him than if he were going upon the Continent. (See the end of the Introduction, under the headf.) b. EXPENSES TO EGYPT BY FRANCE. The expenses of the journey to Egypt through France will of course depend on the arrangements made by the traveller; but though it is impossible to fix the exact sum that a traveller would be required to spend in going from England to Alexandria by Marseilles, the average expense may be reckoned at not less than 311. This will be increased if he stops, even for one night, as well as by living, &c., on the way. It is, of course, much cheaper to book through from London to Paris, by Havre or Dieppe. Tickets are also issued direct through from London Bridge to Marseilles, vid Calais or Boulogne, with the privilege of spending 15 days on the road. The journey on the Nile is certainly expensive for one person; but when the expenses of the boat and servants, the two great items, are shared by two or three, this makes a great difference; though few have sufficient knowledge of the country to arrange matters for themselves, and are therefore dependent on their dragoman (" interpreter"), who is their upper servant (see Section I. g). And to give some idea of the increase of expenses in Egypt, I may observe that a turkey which would have cost 9 piastres a few years ago, now sells for 81; and other things have risen in a similar manner. c. STEAMERS FROM MARSEILLES TO EGYPT AND SYRIA. French steamers leave Marseilles for Alexandria on the 9th, 19th, and 29th of every month; fare now raised to 201. An Englishman, however, will generally prefer those of the Peninsular and Oriental Company. The English steamer between Marseilles and Maltagoes every week to (and from) Malta, where it meets the packet coming direct from England. The fare from Marseilles to Malta is 101., including board, for a 1st class passenger; but the whole fare from Marseilles to Alexan- dria is 201., and a steward's fee of 10s., and other items add about 15s. more. In leaving Marseilles it takes the London mail for India, by which means letters can be despatched from London three or four days later than by the packet that goes round by Gibraltar to Malta. (See below.) There are also Austrian, French, and Russian steamers which run from Alexandria by the coast-line to Constantinople. The Austrian steamers leave Alexandria for Jaffa every Wednesday evening: fares from Alexandria to Jaffa, 1st class, 90 frs.; Beyroot, 132 frs.; Smyrna, 322 frs.; and Constantinople, 403 frs. Austrian steamers direct to Smyrna and Constantinople every other Tuesday. Fares from Alexandria to Smyrna, 200 frs.; Constantinople, 275 frs. French Messageries steamers leave for Jaffa and Constantinople, touching at the above places, on the 8th, 18th, and 28th of each month, the fares being the same as the Austrian indirect line. These arrangements, however, may be changed at any time, and tra- vellers must inquire for themselves and consult the time-tables of each year. d. STEAMERS FROM ENGLAND BY GIBRALTAR AND MALTA TO ALEXANDRIA. Peninsular and Oriental steamers leave Southampton for Alexandria .every week, calling at Gibraltar and Malta. They are connected with the overland journey to India; but the Company's steamers no longer touch at ports in Spain and Portugal before reaching Gibraltar. (See p. xiii.) According to the latest information published by the Peninsular and Oriental Company :- " Passengers leaving Southampton on the above dates arrive at Gibraltar in about 5 days; and after staying there from 6 to 12 hours, proceed to Malta, arriving there xii INTRODUCTION. INTRODUCTION, xiii in about 9 days. The ordinary stay at the island is about 6 hours; and the voyage to Alexandria is usually completed in about 13 days from Southampton. "The Company's steamers leave the Mediterranean ports homewards, as follows :- " Alexandria, about the 5th, 14th, 19th, and 30th of the month. " Malta, ,, 9th, 18th, 23rd, and 4th ,, " Gibraltar, ,, 14th, 23rd, 28th, and 9th ,, " Rates of Passage Money. 1st Class. Children, 2nd Class, and To Single Passage. 3 years and under 10. Passengers' Servants. Gibraltar .. . .. .. 131. 71. 91. Malta ...... .. .. 20 10 12 Alexandria .. .. 30 15 19 "One child under 3 years of age, if with the parent, free. "An experienced surgeon is on board each vessel. SMarseilles, Malta, and Alexandria.-The Company's steamers leave Marseilles for Malta and Alexandria on the 5th, 12th, 20th, and 28th of the month, at 7 a.m., with Her Majesty's mails. Passengers must be at Marseilles the afternoon of the day previous to sailing. "N.B. When the 3rd, 10th, 18th, or 26th of the month falls on a Sunday, the Marseilles portion of the overland mails leave London on the following day, and the steamers are despatched from Marseilles at 7 A.M. on the 6th, 13th, 21st, and 29th of the month. "Rates of passage between Marseilles, Malta, and Alexandria. To 1st Class. 2nd Class, and To 1st lass. Passengers Servants. Malta ...... .. .... 101. 51. Alexandria ........ 20 10 "Children under 10 years of age, half the above rates. The fractional part of 11. to be considered as 11. One child under 3 years of age, if with the parent, free. "Passengers booking and paying their passage money at Marseilles must pay the amount in the currency of the place (Francs), attthe Company's advertised rates. " Transit through Egypt.-Passengers booked through by the P. and O. Company, or their agents, are conveyed from ship to ship between Alexandria and Suez by the Transit Administration of the Egyptian Government, as follows:- " By steam tender between Suez and there. " By omnibus or carriage conveyance between the hotels and railway stations. "By rail between Alexandria and Suez,-first-class passengers, their children, and servants in charge of the latter, being conveyed in first-class; and second-class pas- sengers and their children in second-class carriages. "The time occupied in transit will, under ordinary circumstances, be as follows:- " From Alexandria to Cairo, 162 miles, about 7 hours. "From Cairo to Suez, 90 miles, 5 hours. ' Passengers will be charged for the refreshments they receive during the journey. "Regulations relative to Passengers arriving by sea at the port of Marseilles.- By decision of the Emperor of the French, the British, Belgian, Danish, Spanish, Dutch, and Swedish subjects are allowed to enter and travel in the territory of the empire without passport, on simply declaring their nationality. "Rates of hire, Sc., for use of passage-boats and porterage of baggage at Malta.-- When a vessel, having mails or passengers on board, is admitted to pratique, an officer from the Port Department shall go on board to prevent irregularities on the part of the boatmen, and to attend to.the landing of the mails and passengers. "The boats shall lie off at a convenient distance, and shall not come alongside until called or allowed by the officer of the Port Department on duty. "No boat shall receive more than two of such passengers with their luggage, or five without. "The hire of each boat for landing or embarking such passengers shall be 1s. from sunrise to sunset, and 1s. 6d. from sunset to sunrise. "No porter shall take up luggage of such passengers until properly engaged. "The pay of porters for the carriage of such luggage, not exceeding one cwt., English weight, shall be fixed as follows:- "From the landing-place of either harbour to any part of the city of Valetta, 1s. per cwt. " To any place without the limits of Valetta, as far as Porte des Bonbes, 1s. 6d. per cwt. " Sixpence additional for every extra fifty pounds." [For the conditions and rules respecting passengers by the P. and O. Co.'s steamers, see the particulars published yearly by that Company.] e. MALTA. If on-arriving at Malta you intend staying there for any time, either in going to or returning from Egypt, and have to land any luggage, it is agreeable to find there is no custom-house examination: all you have to do is to hire a boat as soon as the officer from the Board of Health has pronounced the steamer to be in pratique. For the regulations respecting boats and porters, see above. There. are also carts with one horse, which will take a load from the Marina to the main street for the same sum as that charged by porters. With regard to a number of small packages, I recommend a traveller always to have as few as possible; it is better to put things into a single box, or case, than to have many little parcels, which are easily lost, and give an infinity of trouble in looking after ; and if it is thought necessary to have several of these encumbrances, they had better be put together into a bag when carried from place to place. The less baggage you have the better. Have as many comforts as possible in a small space, but no superfluities. No better name was ever applied to anything than " impoedimenta " to "baggage" by the Romans; and an old traveller will always have all he requires very compactly put away in a small compass. Hotels at Malta.-There are several good hotels at Malta, among which I may mention D)unsford's, in Strada Reale, and the Imperial. There are also lodging-houses, many of which are very comfortable, as Iorelli's, in Strada Reale; and others. They are well adapted for xiv INTRODUCTION. persons intending to make some stay in Malta; and then it is better to come to an agreement, according to the time. )English money is the current coin in Malta, from a sovereign to a farthing. In returning to Malta from Egypt there is no longer any quarantine, but when cholera happens to be in Egypt travellers are subject to a quarantine of 15 days. Sights at Malta.-There are few objects worthy of a visit at Malta. The principal in the town of Valetta are-the palace, the government library, the cathedral church of St. John, the fortifications, the view from the two Baraccas, and the palaces of the knights, called "Auberges," particularly those of Castille and Provence. In the palace are the armoury, a few good pictures, and some curious tapestry. Many of the apartments are good, and not less so the ball-room. The armoury is well arranged, but the specimens of armour are not so curious nor so varied as might be expected in the city of the Knights. The complete suit of Vignacourt is very elegant and simple. It is the same he wore when painted by Caravaggio in a picture in the dining- room, a copy of which is placed above it. There is a large suit near the other end of the room, that appears, from its immense weight, not to have been worn; and not far from this is a very primitive field- piece, made of copper bound round with ropes, over which a composi- tion of lime was put, cased in leather. The Turkish and Moorish arms are few, and remarkable neither for beauty nor curiosity, which is singular in a place so long at war with the Osmanlis and the Moors. The library was founded in 1790 by the Bailli de Tencin, who presented the public with 9700 volumes. It contains many curious and old works, and is composed of the private collections of the knights, who were obliged to bequeath their books to this public institution. Here are deposited some antiques of various kinds found in Malta and Gozo; among which are a parallel Greek and Punic inscription, several strange headless figures from Crendi, two curious coffins of terracotta, and a few other objects of various styles and epochs. Of St. John's Church the most curious part is the floor, where the arms of all the grand masters are inlaid in various coloured marbles. They have been very useful in heraldry. The tapestry of this church is also very fine. It is put up at the fete of St. John, and continues to be exposed to public view for several days before and after that ceremony. The silver railing in the chapel of the Madonna, at the east end, is curious. It is said to have owed its preservation, at the time of the French occupation of the island, to the paint that then concealed the valuable material of which it is made. In one of the side chapels is a picture by Michael Angelo Cara- vaggio, representing the beheading of St. John: a good painting, but badly preserved. It is said that the artist made this a present to the order, on condition of being created a knight of Malta, in consequence of the following occurrence :-One of the knights having offended the artist, the latter challenged him to single combat, and INTRODUCTION. XV satisfaction being refused, on the plea of his not being worthy to meet his antamonist in a duel, Caravaggio sought to obtain a posi- tion which should entitle him to this right. He therefore applied to the grand master, in the hopes of obtaining the rank of knight; which was granted, on condition of his painting this picture. It was done, he became a knight, and fought his duel; but in order to diminish as much as possible the value of a work which the pride of a member of the order had condemned him to execute, he painted the picture on cotton instead of canvas, whence its decayed state, and the difficulty of its restoration. Such is the story at Malta, the truth of which may be doubted; though the most important point is true, that he painted the picture. In the crypts below the cathedral are the tombs of some of the grand masters. The principal objects in the vicinity of Valetta and in the country are the ruins near Crendi, or Casal Crendi ; the hollow called the Devil's Punchbowl, or Makliba; St. Paul's Bay; Citta Vecchia and the Cata- combs; the Garden of Boschetto; the Governor's Villa of San Antonio; the Grotto of Calypso; and the Aqueduct built by the Grand Master Vignacourt in 1610. These have been so frequently described that I shall only mention the ruins near Casal Crendi, excavated by order of the governor, Sir Henry Bouverie, in 1839-40. They are about twenty minutes' walk from that village, and are called Hagar Keem, " the upright stone :" -a name which has been very improperly written Khem, and has been erroneously supposed to bear some relation to Egypt, or the land of Ham (Khem). They consist of several apartments of various sizes, irregularly placed within one common enclosure, mostly con- nected with each other by passages or doorways. The rooms are either oval, or have one end of semicircular form; and their walls are composed of large stones placed upright in the ground. The principal entrance is on the S.S.E. A short passage leads from it into a small court, in which, on the left-hand side, is a small altar ornamented with a rude attempt at sculpture, representing a plant growing from a flower-pot; and near it is a flat stone like a seat, above which are engraved on an upright block two volutes, protruding on either side of an oval body. This as well as the altar maybe of later date than the ortholithic masonry, and it is worthy of remark that the volute ornament is exactly the same as that placed beneath the feet of the Phoenician Venus, Astarte, whose statue may, therefore, have stood on the slab above. That the Phaenicians, a people so renowned as builders, should have erected these rude monuments is not probable; but there may have been sufficient connexion between the religion of their Punic * colonists and that of the founders of Hagar Keem to induce the Phoenicians, or the Carthaginians, to add this emblem of their goddess; and the horizontal courses of masonry found occasionally here, and at similar ruins in Gozo, which are evidently later additions, may be attributed to the same people. There are no * Peni, Phoenician, and Punic, have the same meaning, and signify, like Adamic, Edomite, HIemyarite, Aamaric (Abyssinian), red; Carthaginian, like Sidonian and Tyrian, being from the city. xvi INTRODUCTION. Sother signs of sculpture; but a peculiar kind of ornament is common on these and all the principal members of the building, consisting of rofd holes punctured all over the face of the stones, extending little deeper than the surface. On either side of this court is a semicircular chamber ; and after passing on through a door in a line with the main entrance, you come to a second court, at the upper end of which, to the right, is the prin- cipal sanctuary. It is of semicircular form, and the upper part of its walls is built of stones placed in horizontal courses, put together with care, and breaking joint; evidently of a later period than the small original sanctuary which it encloses, and which is formed of rude blocks placed upright in a circle, with an entrance corresponding to that of the larger external sanctuary. All the stones have been punc- tured in the manner above mentioned. On the left of this second court are two large stone altars; one on each side of a door leading to a small apartment, connected with which is another little chamber, also containing an altar. There are four more apartments at this (south-west) end of the ruins; and in the outer wall of circuit are some very large stones placed upright, about 15 ft. high above the ground. A stone of similar size stands near the sanc- tuary to the north-east, and another of still larger dimensions is placed horizontally a little to the east of the main entrance. Mr. Hlhind found, on the summit of one of these upright stones, a flat-bottomed basin 3 ft. 8 by 1 and 10 inches deep, hollowed out by the hand of man. About 120 ft. to the north of these ruins are other semicircular enclosures, made with stones placed upright in the ground; and about a mile to the south, near the sea, are some ruins similar to the Hagar Keem, which are also deserving of examination. In the same excursion may be included a visit to Makldba, and even to the cave called Ghar Hassan on the sea-coast to the south-east of Crendi. Other ruins, similar to, though much smaller than, those of Crendi, are found close to Valetta, at the Coradino, near Captain Spenser's monument and the new tank. With regard to the date of these peculiar structures, and the people by whom they were built, I will not pretend to offer any opinion. In Britain they would be considered druidical, but there is nothing to guide us respecting their history, and the small headless figures dis- covered there (now preserved in the Government library at Valetta) in no way aid in solving the question. In Gozo is another ruin called Torre dei Giganti, "the Giants' Tower," inland on the eastern side of the island, which is on a grander scale than the ruins of Crendi, though of similar construction, and evidently the work of the same people. Rowing and sailing boats go over to Gozo from Valetta daily, and sometimes a small yacht may be hired for the occasion, which is cleaner and more comfortable. Valetta has a small theatre, where Italian operas are performed during the season. Many public and private balls are also given, par- ticularly in the winter. xvii INTRODUCTION. INTRODUCTION. f. THINGS THAT SHOULD BE BOUGHT IN ENGLAND FOR THE NILE JOURNEY. Before leaving England for Egypt it will be as well to purchase some things for the Nile journey which are better and cheaper in Europe. These are:- Tea. This is good and cheap at Malta. Wine and ale, if thought necessary. They may be bought at Alexandria, or Cairo. Saddle and bridle, for Syria or Greece (very necessary). Side-saddle. This may do for a donkey also, and be cheaper than the hire of one at Cairo for 1s. a-day. Towels, a few in addition to those furnished by the dragoman. Two or three gauze-wire covers, to keep off flies from sweet dishes. Umbrella. Writing and drawing materials. Telescope. Thermometer and aneroid barometer, and any instruments. Measuring-tape. Gun, &c. [With regard to powder, this should be soldered in a tin case, and consigned to the care of the steward of P. and O. steamer. Arrangements to be previously made with him for this, or it may be declined; all English powder at Cairo is very bad.-A. C. S.] Light clothing. Two macintosh sheets, about 7 ft. square, with loops sewn on here and there on the edges, to lay on the damp ground in Syria or the desert. They also serve to cover baggage from rain. American oilcloth is perhaps better still. About fifty or more English sovereigns, or napoleons. Books. The choice of these will of course depend on the choice or occupation of each person; I shall therefore only re- commend some useful works, as vols. ii. and iii. of Larcher's Herodotus; Cham- pollion's Phonetic System of Hiero- glyphics, Letters, and Grammar; Po- cocke; Denon; Hamilton's Egyptiaca ; Savary's Letters; Clot Bey's Apergu Generale de l'Egypte; Gliddon on the Hieroglyphics; Mengin's Egypte sons Mohammed Aly; Robinson's Palestine and Mount Sinai; Stanley's Sinai; Lane's Modern, and Wilkinson's Ancient, Egyptians; Hoskins's Ethiopia, and Visit to the Great Oasis; Colonel Leake's, Lapie's, or Wilkinson's Map of Egypt; Captain Smyth's Alexandria; Wilkin- son's Survey of Thebes; Costa's Delta; and Parke and Scoles's Nubia: to which may be added Burckhardt, Laborde's Petra, Ptolemy, Strabo, and Pliny; but of these three las., as well as Diodorus, extracts will suffice, if considered too voluminous. For those who wish to study Arabic, Lane's Arabic and English Lexi- con will always be the standard work, the three first parts of which are al- ready published. It is a lasting monu- ment of the greatest industry and learn- ing, and an honour to England, as well as to the author, and we have reason to Srejoice that the liberality of the late Duke of Northumberland has secured its publication in this country, and that a similar liberality on the part of his widow, the Duchess Dowager, ensures its completion. (Of the libraries in Egypt see Sect. II.) The flags, essential on the Nile, can be better purchased at Cairo than in England. The English tailor (Mr. Pay) will provide the long streamer, the distinguishing pen- nant (or burgee) of every boat, as well as the Union Jack; and indeed supply the wants of most English travellers. Medicines may be had in Cairo, though better in England. These things may be sent by sea from Southampton, at 2s. the cubic foot. Most of them may be had at Malta, but it is better to make them all up and send them at once from England. Some may be thought unnecessary; and, as I said be- fore, a man may take nothing more with him than he does in travelling on the Continent. (See also Sect. I. b.) XVil INTRODUCTION. xix g. ROUTE BY TRIESTE TO ALEXANDRIA. There is also a communication between Trieste and Egypt by the steamers of the Austrian Lloyd's Company, which touch at Syra, from which place you can go on immediately to Alexandria, or to Smyrna and Constantinople. But as there is a loss in changing napoleons for the payment of the numerous extras on board these steamers, tra- vellers should be provided with zwanzigers to avoid it. The Pyramids, during the inundation, from near the fork of the Delta. HANDBOOK FOR TRAVELLERS IN EGYPT. SECTION I. EGYPT. PRELIMINARY INFORMATION. a. Season for visiting Egypt - Time required - Expenses of the Journey. -b. Things useful for the Journey in Egypt. - c. Mode of living in Egypt, and Diseases of the Country. - d. Dress. - e. Presents. - f. Passport. - g. Money. -h. Weights and Measures. - i. Post Once.- k. Population - Revenue. -1. Family of Mohammed Ali. - m. Chronological Table. - n. List of Caliphs and Sultans of Egypt. - o. Certain Points requiring Examination. - p. English and Arabic Vocabulary. ROUTE PAGE ROUTE PAGE 1. London to Alexandria .... 67 5. Alexandria to Cairo, by the 2. Alexandria to Rosetta, by Western Bank .. .... 99 land .. .. .. .. .. 95 6. Alexandria to Atfeh and 3. Rosetta to Atfeh and Cairo, Cairo, by the Canal and by the Nile ...... 98 the Nile .. .. .. .. 99 4. Alexandria to Cairo, by land, 7. Alexandria to Cairo, by the through the Delta .... 99 Railroad .. .. .... 107 Route 1.-1. Arrival at Alexandria. 2. Hotels. 3. Servants. 4. Boats. 5. Things to be purchased at Alexandria for the journey to Cairo. 6. History of Alexandria. 7. Plan of Alexandria, and Site and Description of the Buildings. 8. Monuments outside the Canopic Gate. 9. Present Remains of Ancient Alexandria. 10. Its Size and Importance. 11. Inhabitants. 12. Climate, Lake Mareotis, and Canals. 13. The two Ports, Gates, Walls, and Old Docks. 14. Mosks and other Buildings within the walls. 15. Amusements and Sights in modern Alexandria. a. SEASON FOR VISITING EGYPT. For those who fear the intense heat of its summer the earliest season for visiting Egypt is October, when the cool weather begins, and the northerly winds prevail; and boats may then go up the Nile without the impediments of calms and contrary winds. At the beginning of that month the traveller may have an opportunity of witnessing the curious aspect of the inundation, which, when it rises very high, gives the villages of the Delta the appearance described by Herodotus of islands in the sea. [Egypt.] B a. SEASON FOR VISITING EGYPT. Almost every season may be considered favourable for seeing Egypt, but good winds from April to July are not to be expected, and the comparative preva- lence of southerly and other adverse winds in May makes it the worst month in the whole year. It is then, too, that the Khamsin winds blow; which begin about the 2nd of May. They prevail for fifty days, as the name implies-a period derived from the fifty days of Pentecost. It is not that they blow every day, but this period is more subject to them than any other. The worst are from the S.E. The first day of the Khamsin is called Shemt e' neseem, or "the smelling of the zephyr," when the people smell at an onion, and go into the gardens; frequently to be nearly suffocated by the sand and dust raised by these strong hot winds. Though the thermometer does not range as high as in the three following months, or the beginning of September, the heat is more oppressive and disagreeable during this season; and of all others it is the least advisable for a voyage up the Nile. The northerly winds are most prevalent during the high Nile; they continue through the two last months of the year, and even through February, though less regularly; and they are far more common throughout the year than any others. In choosing a time for going to Egypt, much will depend on the destination of a traveller after leaving it. If he is going into Syria, it may be too long for him to remain in Egypt from October till April, before which it is too cold to travel comfortably in Syria. All the winter months are good for going up the Nile, and if he intends making any stay in the country he may choose his own time; but in that case he had better arrive in October or November. Twenty days may be reckoned a fair average for the voyage from Cairo to Thebes; with fair winds, it is possible to go from Thebes to the second Cataract and back again in a fortnight, though this is rarely done; and the least time for seeing Egypt conveniently and satis- factorily is three months. As a general rule, a traveller should always make it a point to see everything when he can, and not put it off for a second visit, which may be prevented by some unforeseen impediment; but in ascending the Nile it is as well to go on direct as long as the wind is favourable, and only stop if it fails at a spot where there is anything to be seen. At Thebes, however, I should recommend his staying two or three days in going up, to look over the ruins : in order that, after having taken a general view of them, he may know what to go and exa- mine in detail, on his return from Nubia or from the first Cataract. There is now a river steamer .[It runs every twenty days during the winter; but little is seen by the traveller who stops only at the most important places for a few hours, there- by obtaining a mere glimpse of the antiquities which he cannot examine, and losing the interest of life in a Nile boat.--A.C.S.]* But a traveller who has plenty of time, and is interested in antiquities, should only take advantage of it for going up the river. He should quit it at Thebes, and order a dahabdh to be sent up for him to that place to bring him back to Cairo; when he can stop as he likes at the different ruins on his way down, without being hurried from one to the other. Besides, the speed and certainty of the steamer's passage is only an object in going up the stream, as a rowing boat can always come down in about eight or ten days from Thebes, and in it the traveller has all the comfort of a boat to himself, going or stopping at his own option, and the great advantage of being independent. The dahabd h may be either bespoken by him before leaving Cairo, and even sent off then, or be engaged afterwards by a friend, according to the time he intends staying at Thebes. (See Sect. II. g, on Boats and Steamers and Expenses in Upper Egypt.) Though Egypt is a hot climate, it must be remembered that the nights and mornings in winter are very cold; and provision must be made against them by blankets and warm dresses. The thermometer * The remarks placed within similar brackets, throughout the book, have been furnished to MIr. Murray by another person. Sect. I. b. THINGS USEFUL FOR THE JOURNEY. does not range very low, it is true, but when below 500 the cold is felt much more keenly than at the same point in our northern climates. b. THINGS USEFUL FOR A JOURNEY IN EGYPT. Certain things are more or less necessary in Egypt, according to the wants of each individual. I shall therefore give a list of those most useful to a tra- veller, marking such as should be taken from Europe with an E, those which may be obtained at Alexandria with an A, and those which need not be bought before reaching (or which are better at) Cairo, with a C. (See Rte. 1, No. 5, and Sect. II., u.) Now that the railway has been opened from Alexandria to Cairo, few or none of them will be required on that part of thejourney; and if, as is generally the case, the traveller leaves it to his dragoman to provide every- thing for his Nile boat, it will be necessary to provide very few of those given in the following list. But should the traveller be inclined to furnish his own boat, he may obtain most of them during his stay at Cairo, if not inclined to take them from Alexandria or from England. Jug and basin, C. Kitchen-cloths, C. Mats at C. Towels and table-cloths, E or C. Carpets (Segidee), C. Sheets, horse-hair mattrass, pillows, and Common soap, C. pillow-cases, &c., E., or cotton mat- Lamp, or cloth fandos, C. trass, diwans, cushions, sheets, &c., C. To those who wish to be entirely protected at night from intruders, I cannot do better than recommend a contrivance of Mr. Le- ' vinge's, which he de- ( 6 a a vised during his travels in the East, and which is - equally adapted to a boat, a house, or a tent. It consists of a pair of sheets (a), about six feet long, sewed together at the bottom and the two sides, except where the piece (c) is attached to them, and by which you get in. To the upper end (d) is added a thin piece of muslin, serv- ing as a mosquito-net (b), which is drawn tight at the end by a tape or string, serving to suspend it to a nail (f). A short wayfrom the end(at e) are fastened loops, through which a cane is threaded, to form a circle for dis- b tending the net. This cane is in three pieces, about three feet long, fit- d ting into each other by sockets. After getting in a by the opening of c you draw the tape tight to -- close its mouth, and tuck' . - . - - it in under the mattrass, .--- and you are secure from B2 Egypt. b. THINGS USEFUL FOR THE JOURNEY. intruders, whether sleeping at night, or sitting under it by day. Over the part a, the blankets, or coverlid, are put. Two or three blankets, E., or buttaneeh at C., which will fold into four. Mosquito net, C. Iron bedstead to fold up, E., or a Cafass bedstead, C. Gridiron, C. (if thought necessary.) Potatoes, C. Tobacco, C. Pipes, C. Wire for cleaning pipes, put into a reed, C. Some tow for the same purpose, and for cleaning guns, C. Mouth-pieces and pipe-bowls, C. A takkatooka, or a brass plate, called Senneeh, and wire cover for pipe- bowl, are useful, C. Salt, pepper, &c., C. Oil and distilled vinegar, C. Butter, C. Flour, C. Rice, C. Maccaroni, C. Coffee, C. Portable soup, E. Cheese, C., or English cheese, E. Mishmish apricots, C. Kumredeen apricots, C. Tea, E. (at Malta.) Wine, brandy, &c., E. or A. White wine I believe to be better in a hot climate than red. Spermaceti candles, C. Table with legs to fold up, and top to take off, E. or C. Foot-tub (of tin or copper), &c., C. Washing-tub, or portable sponge-bath, C. Flag, C. (for boat on Nile), and a fancy pennant, to mark his own boat, C. Small pulley and rope for flag, E. or C. Coffee-pot, C. Small bikrag, or Turkish coffee-pot, C. Tea-kettle, C. Plates; knives and forks, spoons, glasses, tea-things, &c., in canteen, E. or C. A large bikrag might serve as tea- kettle and for boiling eggs, &c., C. Copper saucepans, one to fit into the other (Hellel fee Kulbe-bad), C.; buy them not tinned, in order to see if they are sound. Copper pan for stewing (Tdwa), C. Baskets for holding these and other things, C. Candlesticks, C. Bardaks (Goollel), or water-bottles, C. Zeer, or, jar, for holding water, C. A fine sieve, C. Almond-paste (roodg or terwe'eg) for clarifying water, C. Some tools, nails, and string, C. A Kaddom may serve as hammer and hatchet, C. Charcoal in mats, C. Fireplaces (mungued), C. In the boat going up the Nile have a set put to- gether in a large fireplace with a wooden back, C. Small bellows or fan, C. Fez caps (tarboosh, tarabeesh), A or C. Manisheh, fly-flap, C. Cafass, or kafass, a coop for fowls, with moveable drawer at the bottom, in order that it may be kept clean, C. White or light-coloured boots or shoes, being cooler, and requiring no black- ing, E. or C. Biscuit, or bread twice baked, C. The bread in the villages in Upper Egypt will not please every one : but very good bread is to be had at Thebes (K.oorneh), and that of Sioet and some other large towns is by no means bad. Small tin cases for holding coffee, sugar, salt, pepper, &c., C. Balldsi, or earthen jars for flour, rice, butter, and other things which rats might eat, are useful, C. Candles in boxes, or in tin cases, but if in the latter not to be exposed to the sun, C. In going to the Tombs, or caves, in Upper Egypt, it is well to remember always to have candles, and the means of lighting them. Broom called makdsheh, and a tin, for sweeping cabin, C. Gun, revolver, and rifle, E. Powder and shot, &c. Ink, paper, pens, &c., C. Camp-stool and drawing table, E. or C. Umbrella lined with a dark colour for the sun, E. or C. Sec. I. C. MODE OF LIVING IN EGYPT. Drawing paper, pencils, rubber, &c., serving the water, is to insist on the and colours, in tin box of Winsor servants not drinking it. and Newton, E. As many eatables, which will keep, as A saddle and bridle for Syria and he likes, most of which may be had Greece, E. at Cairo. Portable soups, or meat, Side-saddle,E. It will fit a donkey also. &c., preserved in tins, may be brought A light Cairene donkey-saddle, but no from England as occasional luxuries. bridle, the asses of Upper Egypt An iron rat-trap for the boat, C. not being accustomed to such a Two sheets of Mackintosh, about 7 feet luxury, C. square, or American oil-cloth, with Tent (if required) at Cairo better than loops here and there, against damp in Europe. ground and rain, are very useful, Curtains for boat, of common or other especially in the desert and in Syria, cotton stuff, C. E. A packing needle or two, and some A ladder (if required) may be made at C. string, thin ropes, needles, thread, A small boat should also be taken from buttons, &c., are useful, C. Cairo, if there be not one belonging A filterer is not necessary; Keneh I to the dahabeeh; or rather, it should jars and goollel, or earthen water- be part of the agreement that the bottles, supply its place. I dahabd'h should be furnished with A zemzem'h, or water-bottle of Rus- one. It is useful for landing, for sian leather, for the desert, or even shooting purposes, and for sending a for excursions to the ruins; though servant ashore to make purchases for the latter goollel will answer very on the way in Upper Egypt. well, without any trouble, C. The ' Telescope, E. seams must be first of all rubbed Thermometer, aneroid barometer, if re- with a mixture of melted tallow and quired, E. wax, and when this dries the zem- Measuring-tape and foot-ruler, E. zemedh may be filled; but after- For observations, a sextant and arti-' wards it must never be left without ficial horizon; or rather, Captain some water in it. Another precau- Kater's Repeating Circle; chrono- tion, when on an excursion, for pre- meter, &c., E. With regard to instruments, they should, when it is possible, be of the same materials throughout, wood and metal combined ill according with the heat of an Egyptian climate; and in the top and bottom of the cases nails or screws answer better than glue. In his medicine-chest the most necessary things for a traveller are, scales and liquid-measure, lancet, diachylon and blistering plaster, lint, salts, rhubarb, cream of tartar, ipecacuanha, sulphate of bark or quinine, James's and Dover's powders, calomel, laudanum or morphine, chlorodine, sugar of lead, sulphate of zinc, nitrate of silver, and sulphate of copper (these 4 being of great use in oph- thalmia); nitre, oil of peppermint, and other common medicines. Powders and other medicines should be put into bottles, well closed with glass stoppers. Nearly all the above-mentioned things may, indeed, be found in Egypt; many, too, will be thought unnecessary by many travellers; it must therefore be left to them to decide if any, or what, can be dispensed with. c. MODE OF LIVING IN EGYPT, AND DISEASES OF THE COUNTRY. In winter it is unnecessary to make any change in the mode of living from that usually adopted in Europe; and most persons may eat whatever they are Egypt. accustomed to in other countries. In the summer months it is, however, better to avoid much wine or spirits, as they tend to heat the blood, and cause the hot weather to be more sensibly felt; and some (though, I may say, very few) will find that fish (chiefly those without scales), eggs, and unboiled milk, do not always agree with them. Bathing in the Nile is by no means prejudicial in the morning and evening; and, except in the neighbourhood of sandbanks, there is no fear of crocodiles. Fruit and vegetables are whole- some and cooling, and mutton is better than beef. The fish of the Nile are not very good; the booltee and kisher are perhaps the best. The diseases of Egypt are few. Fevers are very rare, except about Alex- andria, Damietta, and other places on the coast; and almost the only complaints to which strangers are subject in the interior are diarrhoea, dysentery, and oph- thalmia. The following is a good mode of treatment for diarrhoea, or even for the beginning of suspected dysentery. First take an emetic of ipecacuanha, and in the morning a mild aperient, as 15 grs. of rhubarb with 2 grs. of calomel; on the following day, 2 grs. of ipecacuanha, with 4 gr. of opium morning and even- ing, nothing being eaten but boiled rice, sweetened with white sugar. But if this does not stop the complaint, and tenesmus gives the well-known sign of decided dysentery, a dose of 20 grs. of calomel with 4 gr. of opium should be taken, which must be followed next morning by a dose of castor-oil. This generally cuts the matter short; but it is as well to follow it up with 2 grs. of ipecacuanha and 1 gr. of opium three or four times within the 12 or 24 hours, for two or three days after. In severe cases an injection of nitrate of silver (caustic) has been employed with great success; but this can only be done under medical advice, which can be obtained at Cairo and Alexandria. Chlorodine is also of great service. For ophthalmia, in the first stage, mix 10 grs. of sulphate of zinc in 1 oz. of distilled or rose-water, and put one or two drops into the eye, reducing the strength for succeeding applications. In the purulent stage, mix 7 grs. of sulphate of copper, or blue vitriol, in 1 oz. of rose-water, and drop it into the eye once a-day. Fifteen grs. of sulphate of zinc may even be put into 1 oz. of rose-water, and one or two drops be put into the eye; and I have been recom- mended by an eminent practitioner to use 7 grs. of nitrate of silver to 1 oz. of rose-water in the same manner. In slight inflammation, a wash of 2 grs. of sulphate of copper to 1 oz. of rose- water may be frequently used. Warm water will often remove an irritation which if neglected often ends in ophthalmia; and it is always preferable to cold in affections of the eye in Egypt. Steaming the eye over boiling water is also highly beneficial; or bathing it with a decoction of poppy-heads. The cause of ophthalmia has frequently been assigned to the sand of the desert; but, in order to show the error of this conjecture, I need only observe that ophthalmia is unknown there, unless taken from the Nile; and I have always cured myself and others in two or three days, by a visit to the interior of this dry tract. I do not, however, mean to affirm that sand blown into the eye, or a great glare from the sand, will not produce it; dust and the glare of snow will cause it in other countries; but still they are not the causes of ophthalmia, generally speaking. There are, in fact, both direct and accidental causes. Among the latter are a blow, dust or sand, glare of the sun, a draught of wind, and other things; but the former must be looked for in a fixed and specific agent, peculiar to Egypt. This, I am persuaded, after many years' experience, and frequent attacks of ophthalmia, arises in the transition from excessive dry- ness to damp; and though Egypt is, perhaps, the driest climate in the world, the difference between the generally dry atmosphere and the damp exhalations on the river, or in the streets of Cairo and other towns (which are not only narrow, but are watered to keep them cool), is so great, that the eye is readily affected by it; particularly when in that susceptible state, caused by the sensible Sec. I. C. DISEASES. d. DRESS.-e. PRESENTS. and insensible perspiration, to which the skin is there subject. Hence it is, that during the inundation, when the exhalations are the greatest, ophthalmia is most prevalent. The facts of its non-existence in, and its speedy cure if a patient goes into, the desei , sufficiently substantiate this opinion; and this is further confirmed by the comparatively comfortable sensation there imparted to the eye by the dryness of the air. It is always advisable to avoid sitting in a draught, particularly of damp air; and if obliged to go out at night from a warm room, or the cabin of a boat, it is prudent, when the eyes are weak, to wash them and the forehead with a little cold water, by which means the perspiration is not checked on going out, and the eye is prepared for the change to a cooler temperature. They must, how- ever, be wiped dry before leaving the room. It is unnecessary to say much respecting the plague, which seldom now visits Egypt; and if it shoid appear, any one may escape it by leaving the country on the first alarm. If he cannot do the last, he may avoid it by re- maining in Upper Egypt, where it never goes above Sio~t; or he may keep quarantine like other Europeans in the country. In Alexandria cases rarely occur from September to the end of January, and at Cairo from the end of June to the end of March; and that only in certain years. A violent plague used formerly to occur about once in 10 or 12 years. It was always less fre- quent at Cairo than at Alexandria, and the worst plagues ceased at Cairo by the end of June. It is no longer dreaded as of old: great precautions are taken by the board of health; and the treatment is better understood. The first remedy should be an emetic, which will often stop it if taken in time; but bleeding is injurious. d. DRESS. If the traveller inquires whether the Oriental dress be necessary, I answer, it is by no means so; and a person wearing it, who is ignorant of the language, becomes ridiculous. One remark, however, I must be allowed to make on dress in that country-that a person is never respected who is badly dressed, of whatever kind the costume may be, and nowhere is exterior appearance so much thought of as in the East. e. PRESENTS. With regard to presents in Egypt, it may be laid down as a general rule that they are quite unnecessary; which was not the case in former times. But it will sometimes happen that the civilities of a Shekh Belled, or even of a Turkish governor, require some return; in which case some English gunpowder, a watch, or a telescope for the latter, and a white shawl and tarboosh, or an amber mouth-piece for the former, are, generally speaking, more than they have any reason to expect. And although, on those occasions when their politeness arises from the hope of reward, they may be disappointed in their expectations, yet they would only consider greater presents proofs of greater ignorance in the person who made them. But in all cases the nature of a present must depend on the service performed, and also upon the rank of both parties. Egypt. f. PASSPORTS.-g. MONEY. f. PASSPORT. [Though no passport is really needed in Egypt, it is demanded on landing at Alexandria; and it is therefore advisable, in going to Egypt as to every country, to be provided with a ForeignOffice passport.] It will be well to have it vis at the Consulate and by the police, for Upper Egypt, and especially if the traveller intends going any distance from the Nile into the interior; for the governor of a town might refuse protection to a traveller when applied to for it, on the excuse of his having no passport; and the want of one might, in some cases, be a very serious inconvenience. g. MONEY IN ErGYPT. * The most common foreign coins current in Egypt are the dollar, the sove- reign, the napoleon, Venetian sequin, and 5-franc piece. The shilling passes at Cairo and Alexandria among the Europeans; but in the Turkish quarter there is a loss upon it. The value of all foreign coins is frequently changing in Egypt, in consequence of the constant deterioration of the piastre. The Con- stantinople coins pass at Cairo and as far as Asouan; but in Nubia only Egyp- tian money. Large sums are reckoned by purses, as throughout the Turkish empire. The purse is always 500 piastres; there is also the khdzneh, which is 1000 purses. It is as well to take about 501., or more, in sovereigns from Eng- land, as they always have their full value, and sometimes pass for more. MVany Turkish and foreign coins are current in Egypt, but as their value fluc- tuates it is difficult to fix their exact value. Their value in commerce differs also from that established by the Government tariff, and thus the English sovereign, which was rated by the Government some years ago at 972 piastres, passed in commerce for 100, and has now risen to 175; the napoleon, which was rated at 77, now passes for 135; and other coins have risen in a similar ratio; so that their actual value, at various times, can only be ascertained in the country. The best money to take to Egypt is English sovereigns, Spanish and Aus- trian dollars, or 5-franc pieces. It is also necessary to have circular notes, or bills on London. They may be drawn either at Alexandria or Cairo; but it must be remembered that no money is to be obtained in Upper Egypt, and the traveller must take all he wants for his journey before he leaves Cairo; an order may, however, be had on Mustapha Agha, our agent at Luxor (Thebes), by application to the Consul at Cairo. He should also provide himself with a sufficient quantity of small change, called Khdrdeh, in piastres, and 20, 10, and 5 para pieces for small purchases, as the peasants seldom have any means of giving change. When everything is supplied by the dragoman it will be necessary for the traveller to take sufficient gold to pay him the first month in advance be- fore he leaves Cairo, and a specified sum at Asouan (which is the general agree- ment-see Contract); and he will really require very little money until his return to Cairo, where circular notes or letters of credit can readily be cashed. A very few sovereigns in addition will be all that the traveller can spend on the Nile; but it is not advisable to leave all small private purchases to be paid for by the dragoman. The piastre and the smaller Egyptian coins now pass throughout Ethiopia; though, in the southern parts, the old prejudice in favour of the Spanish pillar dollar of Charles IV. (once common throughout Ethiopia as low as the first Cataract) may perhaps still remain. That dollar was preferred, and had a greater value, partly from its having four lines in the number, and, partly, as they affirmed, from the superior quality of the silver. Sect. I. g. WEIGHTS AND MEASURES. h. WEIGHTS AND MEASURES. 8 Mitkal make 1 Okiea (wokeea) or Arab oz. 12 Okiea - 1 Rotl or pound (about 1 lb. 2 oz. 8 dwt. Troy). 24 Rotl - 1 Oka or Wukka. 100 to 110 Rotl 1 Kantar (about 984 avoirdupois). 108 Rotl - 1 Kantir for coffee. 102 Rot1 - 1 Kantar for pepper, &c. 120 Rotl - 1 Kantar for cotton. 150 Rotl - 1 ]Kanhir for gums, &c. For Gold, Gums, &c. 4 Kumh (Grains) make 1 Keerat (Carat) or Khardobeh. 64 Grains or 16 Keerit - 1 Derhm (47$ to 49 grains English). 12 Derh, or21 Mitk]l (from about I drachm to 72 grs. 11 Perlim, or 24 Feerlt- 1 English). 12 Derhm 1 Oklea or oz. (from 571 to 576 grs. Eng- -- lish). 12 Okea - 1 Rotl or pound. 150 Rotl - 1 Kantir. Measures of Length. Fitr, or span with forefinger and thumb. Shier, longest span with little finger and thumb. Kubdeh, human fist, with the thumb erect. 1 Drah beledee, or cubit, equal to 22 to 22- inches English. 1 Drah Stamb6olee equal to 26 to 261 inches English. 1 Drah Hindazee (for cloth, &c.) equal to about 25 inches English. 2 Bah (braces) equal to 1 Kassobeh or 11 feet. Land Measures. 1 Kassobeh, equal to 22 (formerly 24) Khar6obeh or ]Kibdeh make .. from 11 ft. 41 in. 1" to 11 ft. 74 in. English. 13j Kassobeh or rods - 1 Keerat. 24 Keerit, or 333 Kassobeh - 1 Feddin or acre. In Lower Egypt. 9 Kuddah make 1 Melweh. 4 Kuddah - 1 Roob. 2 Roob - 1 Kayleh. 4 Roob - 1 Waybeh. 24 Roob - 1 Ardeb. Corn Measure. In Upper Egypt. 4 Roftow make 1 Mid. 3 Roob - 1 Mid. 8 Mid or 1 Ardeb, or 6 Waybeh - nearly 5 Eng. * bushels. P3 Egypt. 10 i. POST-OFFICE.-k. POPULATION-REVENUE, c. i. POST-OFFICE. Besides the inland post, there is a Forei;n post-office at Cairo as well as at Alexandria, and letters sent by it to Malta, France, and other parts of the Continent, must be prepaid. Letters from Upper Egypt for England had better be sent to the Consul; or to the landlord of some hotel at Cairo, as they can be forwarded rather later than those sent to the consulate. They need not be prepaid, if sent by the overland mail. There is also a post throughout Egypt, and letters may be sent from any place to Cairo, paying 50 paras for every drachm weight. From Cairo to Alexandria by railroad, a single letter pays = 1 piastre; of 4 oz. = 1- p.; of 1 oz. - 2 p.; of 2 oz. = 32 p., &c. The post-office of Upper Egypt is in the hands of the Govern- ment, but beyond Cairo the post-office is most unsatisfactory. From and to Thebes alone, letters can be forwarded by means of the clumsy and expensive method of running Arabs, who relieve one another from village to village: the arrival, however, of the letters at their destination is most precarious, and many never reach Cairo. Beyond Thebes it is useless to attempt to forward or receive letters; and the (so-called) English Consul at Thebes (Mustapha Agha) advises travellers not to make the attempt. k. POPULATION.-REVENUE. The population of Egypt is estimated at about 4,500,000. Alexandria, owing to its thriving condition and extensive commerce, contains nearly ten times the number of inhabitants it had before the time of Mohammed Ali, and its population, which is rapidly augmenting, is now about 170,000. The revenue of Egypt is said to be about 4,500,0001. to 5,000,0001. sterling. 1. FAMILY OF MOHAMMED ALl. The family left by Mohammed Ali were Ibrahim Pasha; Said Pasha; Hos- sayn Bey; Halzem Bey; and Mohammed Ali Bey; Nuzleh Hanem, his eldest daughter, the widow of Mohammed Bey Defterdar; and other daughters. Toossoom and Ismail Pasha died many years before him; and the former left a son, the late Abbas Pasha, who was succeeded in the pashalic by his uncle Said; the succession going, according to custom, to the oldest member of the family, and not directly from father to son. But this custom, so injuri- 'ous to the country, has now been abolished (1866); and the succession is to continue in the direct line from father to son. JIbrahim Pasha left some children, one of whom, Ismail Pasha, is the pre- sent Viceroy. m. CHRONOLOGICAL TABLE OF KINGs OF EGYFT. In order to assist those who are interested in Egyptian antiquities, I shall introduce a list of kings, which may be useful in examining the monuments, particularly at Thebes. It must however be understood that the dates are merely approximative. The chronology of Egypt is as yet very uncertain; and the date of Menes has been variously conjectured at from 3024 B.C. to 2700. I do not think it necessary to arrange, or even to mention the names of all the early kings, but those only who are connected in some particular manner with the monuments, or with history; and as I consider Mr. Stuart Poole's arrangement of the 19 first dynasties the most satisfactory that has been suggested, I shall here introduce it : Sect. I. -Egypt. I. THINITES. II. III. Memphites. I IV. m. CHRONOLOGICAL TABLE. I. . . . V. Elephantines. I IX. Heracleopolites. X.? Diospolites. XI. XII. XIII. X VIII. XIX. I I XIV. Xoites. XV. } Shepherds. XVII. Shepherds. From this it will be at once seen how and which of the early dynasties were contemporaneous, and that the whole of Egypt was not governed by one king after the death of Menes, until the (time of Amosis, the first king of the) 18th dynasty. SAscend Athend Letter in Plate; and the Name; Throne. with the order of the Dynasties; and the most noted Kings. I. DYNASTY. 8 Thinites. A. Menes, Menai, First King. According to Josephus, he lived 1300 years before Solomon. Athothis, his son. III. DYNASTY. 6 other Kings. 9 Memphites. Among them are Shofo (Soyphis) and others. II. DYNAsTY. 9 Thinites ? IX. DYNASTY. 4? ieracleopolites ? (Hermonthites ?) Ementefs., and Mantoftep II. V. DYNASTY. 9 ? Elephantines 1 (probably of Middle or Lower Egypt.) Usercheres, Shafre (Sephres), and others. XI. DYNASTY. 16 Diospolites, or Thebans. Senofrkere, Mantoftep I. or Man- dothp, Enentef, and others. AM to 4 X. "after whom Ammenemes," or Amun-ih-he I., per- haps Amun-timeus. IV. DYNASTY. 8 Memphites. Shofo (Suphis or Cheops). Nu-shofo, Menkere, and others. VI. DYNASTY. 6 Memphites. Tata. Papa, Papi, or Apappus. Merenre. Nitocris.... Nitocris. 11 B.C. 270( ? 2450 2240 2031 o - - - - 12 m. CHRONOLOGICAL TABLE. Sect. I. Ascend Letter in Plate; and the Name; Throne with the order of the Dynasties; and the most noted Kings. B.C. 2c. XII. DYNASTY. XIV. DYN* XV. VII. b-N 2020 7 Diospolites or Thebans. Xoites. XVI. DYr. VIII. fYN. (said by Ma- XVII. J Memphites. netho to be Shepherds. A. B. Osirtasen son of Am- Who came in or Sirtasen, menemes. the time of o Sirts. Date of his Amun-timmeus, (Sesonchosis.) 43rd year or on the Amun-ifi-he ? Monuments C. D. Amun-in-he II. Was the XVII. Date of his 35th year. Dyn. given to the first Shep- E. F. Osirtasen II. herds, while it Date of his 3rd year. really belonged G. H. Osirtasen III. to the" Stranger Date of his 14th year. Kings" and were their names (Moeris) introduced by His 44th mistake into the I. J. Amun-il-he III. yr. on xtv. ? Hence on too the mention the of Amunoph at Monts. that time. (See K. L. Amun-R-he IV. p. 20.) Sebeknofr (Skemiophris.) X. XIII. DYNASTY. 186) DYN.? 60 ? Diospolites who were in l o " u'. J~w29o~es Ethiopia. Many of these were called Sabaco, and were pro- bably Ethiopians. Then followed the XVIII. Dynasty of Diospolites, who ruled all Egypt; having expelled the Shepherds, who had held the country from 2031 B.C. Ascend Letter in the SPlaetter in Kings. Throne Events. B.C. XVIII. DYNASTY OF DIOSPOLITES (FROM THEBES). MN Amosis, or Ames .. 1520 Date of his 22nd year on the monuments. OP Amunoph I. . . . . 1498 Crude brick arches used in Egypt. QR Thothmes I . ..... 1478 Date of his 14th year. Qa Ra Amun-nou-het .. .. 1464 Reigned with Thothmes II. & III. ST Thothmes I. . . 1464 UV Thothmes III. .... 1463 A great architect. His 47th year on the monuments. Egypt. m. CHRONOLOGICAL TABLE. 13 Ascend Letter in the E SPlate. Kings. Throne Events. B.C. WX Amunoph II. .. .. 1414 His son. Came to the throne young. YZ Thothmes IV. .... 1410 His son. His 7th year on the monuments. ab Amunoph III. (while a 1403 His son. The supposed Memnon minor, his mother to of the vocal statue at Thebes. Maut-h-shoi was pro. 1367 His 36th year on the monu- bably Regent.) meits. [Some "Stranger kings " ruled in Egypt about this time (1367 to about 1337 ?), three of whom were Eesa, Amun-To6nkh, and Atin-re-Bakhan.] cd Horus .... .... 1337 Rathotis; Resetat .. 1325 XIX. DYNASTY or DIOSPOLITES. e f Remeses I. .. .... .1324 Or Remesso. His 2nd year on the monuments. g h Sethi, Osirei, or Siri I. 1322 A great conqueror. His 9th year on the monuments. i 1, 2, Amun-mai Remeses .. 1311 Or Remeses the Great. The j 3, 4, or Remeses II. .. supposed Sesostris, son of Osi- 5, 6, (Ilis two Queens) .. .. rei or Se-Osirei: hence, perhaps, confounded with Sesostris, His 62nd year on the monuments. Manetho gives him 66. k 1 j Pthahmen .. .. .. 1245 His son. His 3rd year on the !monuments. k 2, 12 Pthahmen-Se-Pthah .. 1237 Not admitted into the Theban lists, perhaps from being a Memphite, or from having only married the Princess j Taosiri. His 3rd year on the Smonuments. XX. DYNASTY OF DIosroLITES. m n Sethi, Osirei, or Siri II. 1232 o p Sethi, Osirei, or Siri III. 1224 q r Remeses III. .. .. 1219 His son, called also Miamun, and Amun-mai. His 26th year on the monuments. s t Remeses IV. .. .. 1189 His son. His 3rd year on the monuments. u v Remeses V. .. .. 1185 Sons of Remeses III. Troy taken w x Remeses VI. .. .. 1180 ( 1184? y z Remeses VII. .... 1176 a f3 Remeses VIII. .... 1171 m. CHRONOLOGICAL TABLE. Sect. I. Ascend Letter in the Plate. Kings. Throne Events. B.C. Remeses IX. .. .. 1161 His 12th a monument Remeses X. .. .. 1142 His 3rd ye Bemeses XI. ? .... 1138 Amunmeses? .... 1135 (Other kings.) XXI. DYNASTY OF TANITES. Smendes and other 1085 kings. Amunse-Pehor .... 1019 Pionkh .. .... 1013 Pisham his son .. .. 1004 XXII. DYNASTY OF BUBASTITES. Sheshonk I. .. .. Osorkon I., his son .. Her-sha-seb, his son .. Osorkon II. .. .. Sheshonk II. .. .. Tiklat, Tiglat or Take- loth I. (Tacelothis). Osorkon III., his son Sheshonk III., his son Tiglat, Takeloth II., his son. 990 968 953 952 929 914 899 872 842 nd 17th years on the ;s. ar on the monuments. Shishak of SS. (t. Solomon). His 22nd year on the monuments. His 11th year on the monuments. His 23rd year (?) on the monu- ments. Married Keromama, daughter of Her-sha-seb. His 15th year on the monuments. Probably a son of Sheshonk II. He married Keromame, daughter of Nimrod, son of Osorkon II. Ils 28th year on the monuments. His 28th year on the monuments. 26th years between 28th of Sheshonk III. and the 2nd year of Pisham. XXIII. DYNASTY OF TANITES. 1, 2 Pishai, or Pikhai .. 818 Descended from Takeloth I. A new line. His 2nd year on the monuments. 3, 4 Sheshonk IV., his son 815 His 37th year on the monuments. 5, 6 Petubastes .... .. 777 Olympiadsbegan inhisreign,776. (Other kings.) (Era of Nabonassar, 741 B.c.) XXIV. DYNASTY OF 1 SAITE. Bocchoris .. .. .. 734 Called " the Wise." Son of Tnephachthus, the Technatis of Plutarch. 14 y6 7 0 1, 2 3, 4 5, 6 1, 2 3, 4 7, 8 9, 10 11, 12 13, 14 15, 16 17, 18 Egypt. M. CHRONOLOGICAL TABLE. 15 Ascend Letter in Kings. the Events. Plate. Kings. Throne Events. B.C. XXV. DYNASTY or ErTHOPIANs. Sabaco I. or Shebek I. Sabechon, Sevechus, Sabaco II., or Shebek II. Tehrak, Tirhaka, Tarcus. or 714? 702 690 1, 2 3 4 XXVI. DYNASTY OF SA1TES. (Uncertain.) Psamatik, or Psam- metichus I., son of Neco. 664 If the 12 kings or monarchs ruled at all, their reign is included in that of Psammetichus, who is shown by the Apis stele to be the immediate successor of Tirhaka. Herodotus gives 1452 years from the acces- sion of Psammetichus to the invasion by Cambyses. 145 -+ 525 = 670 - 671. Hero- dotus and Manetho give Psam- metichus 54 years, and his 54th year is on the monu- ments. Fall of Nineveh 625? So or Sava of SS. Made a treaty with Hosea about710 B.C. His 12th year on the monuments. Herodotus gives him 50; Ma- netho 12. The 50 years of Herodotus probably comprised the rule of the whole of the 25th Dynasty. Manetho gives him 14 or 12 years. Shalmanezer besieges Samaria in 4th year of Heze- kiah, and after 3 years takes it. Captivity of Israel (2 Kings xviii. 9). His 26th year on the monuments. Manetho gives him 18 or 20 years. Sennacherib takes cities of Judah in 14th of Hezekiah, in the time of "Tirhakah." Sethos, a priest-king, said by Herodotus to have ruled at Memphis at this time. An Apis, born in the 26th year of Tirhaka, died in the 21st of Psammetichus, aged 21 years. 7, 8- I m. CHRONOLOGICAL TABLE. Kings. Letter in Plate. 9, 10 11, 12 13, 14 13a, 14a Psammetichus III. Amasis, Ames .. Ascend the Throne B.C. 610 Events. His 16th year on the monuments. Herodotus gives him 16 years. Neco begins to re-open canal to Red Sea. Josiah dd- feated by Neco and killed. Carchemish taken by Neco. Jehoiakim b. to r. and reigned 11 years. Army of Neco de- feated and Carchemish taken by Nebuchadnezzar in 4th year of Jehoiakim, in 1st of Nebuchadnezzar, and 19th of his father, Nabopolassar (Ptol. Can.), who reigned 21 years, i. e. apparently 2 years with his son. (Berosus.) Neco, the son of Psam- metichus I. Psammetichus II., Psam- mis, or Psamuthis. Apries, Yaphres, Hai- phra-het, Hophra. 588 569 His 12th year on the monuments. Manetho gives him 19 years; Herodotus 25. Alliance of Ze- dekiah with Egypt. The 10th of Zedekiah was the 18th of Nebuchadnezzar (Jer. xxii. 1). Zedekiah deposed and taken to Babylon, Pharaoh Hophra being then living (Jer. xliv. 30). His reign probably included in thatof Apries, which was appa- rently reckoned at 19 years. An Apis born in 16th of Neco, consecrated in 1st of Psam- metichus II.; died in 12th of Apries, aged 17 yrs. 6 m. 5 d. His 44th year on the monuments. Herodotus and Manetho give him44. Hemarried a daughter of Psammetichus III. Cyrus in 17th year of Nabonadus took Babylon (Jos. Eus. Beros.). A Stela mentions a man born in the 3rd year of Neco, who died in 35th of Amasis, aged 71 years 7 months. An Apis Stela mentions a daughter of Amasis, called Psametic; 16 Sect. I. 594 His 1st year on the monuments. 15, 16 _ _____ I, -- - ---- -^-- I , - - m. CHRONOLOGICAL TABLE. Ascend Letter in the Plate. in Kings. Throne Events. B.C. Amasis, Ames .. Psammenitus, or Psam- micherites. 569 525 and he appears to have had two other wives besides the daugh- ter of Psammetichus III. After 6 months Egypt conquered by Cambyses. XXVII. DYNASTY OF PERSIANS. 15, 16 19 20, 21 22 23 Cambyses . .... Darius Hiystaspes .. Xerxes (son of Darius) Artabanes (brother of Darius). Artaxerxes (or Art- ksheshes) Longimanus Xerxes II .. .. .. Sogdianus .. .. Darius Nothus .. 525 519 483 462 462 421 421 420 Egypt. 17 Canbat, and Canbosh ? in hiero- glyphics. Ruled 6 years till 519 (others say 522). (Or 521.) Ruled 36 years. Per- sians expelled from Egypt at the close of his reign till 2nd year of Xerxes. (Or 485.) Ruled 21 years. Killed Xerxes, and Darius, son of Xerxes; and was put to death by Artaxerxes. Ruled 7 months. (Some give 465.) In his 5th year revolt of Inarus King of Libya, and Amyrtmus, 458. Persians retake Egygt 4 years (or some say 6 years) later, 452-451; Amyrtnus flies to the isle of Elbo, and Inarus is crucified. Sarsamas is made Satrap of Egypt. In the 15th year of Artaxerxes 60 ships are sent to Egyptbythe Athenians, Amyr- tmus being still in the marsh- country, 438 .c. It is possible that about 448 Pausiris, son of Amyrtxus, was made Viceroy of Egypt by the Persians; and if then aged 18, he was born 466 B.c.; and Amyrtous would be at least 18 in 466, and born in 484, being 26 years old at the first revolt in 458. If Pau- siris was made viceroy sooner, the birth of Amyrtsus would be later than 484. Artaxerxes reigned 40 years, or 41, and died 421 B.c. Reigned 2 months. -- 7 months. -- 19 years. Illegitimate - - m. CHRONOLOGICAL TABLE. Sect. I. Ascend Letter in thevt-ens PLetate. in Kings. Throne Events. B.C. Darius Nothus .. 420 son of Artaxerxes Longimanus. Inhis 10th year, 411 B.c., Egypt revolted (some say in his 2nd year, 419-418 B.c.), and Amyr- taus became king. XXVIII. DYNASTY OF ONE SAITE. 24, 25* Amyrtaeus .. .. .. 411 Amyrtmus reigned 6 years till 505 B.c. If born 414, he died aged 79; but if the revolt was in 2nd year of Darius or 419, he died in 413, aged 71; and if Pausiris was made viceroy before 448, the age of Amyr- tmus would be much less. XXIX. DYNASTY OF MENDESIANS. 26, 27 Nepherites .... .. 405 Nefaorot. Long vowels first used in Greek, 403. Death of Cyrus the younger. Re- treat of the 10,000, 401. 28, 29 Achoris, or Ac6ris .. 399 Hakori. 30, 31 Psammoutis, or Pse- 386 Nepherotes and Muthis not on Maut. the monuments. XXX. DYNASTY'OF SEBENNYTE KINGS. 32, 33 Nectanebo I. Teos or Tachos "IT . ,, ^ II.,^ T Nectanebo Ochus .. Arses ., Darius .. 381 Nakhtnebo, Nectabis of Pliny. 363 Artaxerxes Mnemon sent a large force under Pharnabazus and Iphicrates into Egypt about 374 B.c., which was defeated by Nectanebo. 31. .~~ 1 Dntiu f i~U 343W 11) S.. . . 1 6 eated by the Persans, . XXXI. DYNASTY OF PERSIANS. ...... 343 In his 20th year. .. .. .. 341 .. .... 338 Alexander conquers Egypt, 332, MACEDONIANS. PTOLEMY BEING GOVERNOR Or EGYPT, 322. Philip Aridaus .... 323 Ptolemy made governor of Egypt Alexander, son of Alex- 317 1 in their name, 322. ander the Great. PTOLEMIES, OR LAGIDJE. 1 Lagus, or Soter .... 305 Married, 1 Eurydice, 2 Berenice. 2 Philadelphus .. .. 284 (The Ethiopian king Ergamenes lived at this time.) Mar. Ar- sinoi. * This name, Nos. 24, 25, is now supposed to be of Bocchoris. 18 Ascend Letter in the Plaete. in Kings. Throne. Events. B.C. 3 Euergetes I .... 246 Mar. Berenice. 4 Philopator .... .. 221 Mar. Arsino6. 5 Epiphanes .... .. 204 Mar. Cleopatra. 6 Philometor .... .. 180 Mar. Cleopatra. Antiochus in- vades Egypt, 170. 7 Euergetes II., or 145 Mar. 1 Cleopatra, 2 Cleopatra Physcon. Cocce. Also called Philometor. 8 Soter II., or Lathyrus. 116 Mar. 1 Cleopatra,2 Selene. Called also Philometor, expelled 106. 9 Alexander I. .. .. 106 With his Mother. Mar.Cleopatra. Lathyrus restored, 88. 10 Berenice .. .... 81 Daughter of Lathyrus. 11 Alexander II. .... 80 Bequeaths his kingdom to the Romans. 12 Neus Dionysus, or 65 Mar. Cleopatra. Expelled 58, re- Auletes. stored 55. 13 Ptolemy, the only son 51 With Cleopatra, his sister and of Auletes. wife. 14 Ptolemy, the younger. 47 Mar. Cleopatra also. 15 Cleopatra .... .. 44 Alone, and then with Cesarion or Neocaesar, her son by J. Caesar. 30 Egypt became a Roman province. A.D. Events. 122 Visit of Adrian to Egypt; and again A.D. 130. 297 Taking of Alexandria by Diocletian. 325 Council of Nicma in reign of Constantine. Athanasius and Arius. 379 Edict of Theodosius. Destruction of the Temple of Sarapis. 622 Conquest of Egypt by Amer (miscalled Amrou). (See Table of Caliphs.) 1517 Conquest of Egypt by the Turks under Sultan Selim. 1763 Rebellion of Ali Bey. 1798 Invasion of Egypt by the French. 1801 Expelled by the English. 1806 Mohammed All made Pasha of Egypt, 1849 Mohammed Ali died; August 2nd. Egypt. 19 m. CHRONOLOGICAL TABLE. LIST OF KINGS.-PHARAOHS. Dynasty I. Dynasty XI. Dynas- AMN M 0i P E T Y X 7 A E F ..-II X1 1 1 Mil s ill mill, *ll gIII mil *11 � u oi -al * ILul jI rgn sl $ e1=i l1 3% - !II__ dSAIL Probably a vari- Auletes and Cleopatra. ation of Alexander I. a The elder Ptolemy and Cleopatra Tryphana. Neoceesar and Cleopatra. Iu | ! I 12 11 10 Vespasian. N 23 22 21 M. Aurelius. Antoninus Pius. II I" Commodus. 36 35 34 3 Il . w r NAMES OF 0AESARS. 9 8 7 6 ero. Claudius. Caius, o. 20 19 18 17 2 1 Augustus. 14 16 15 A- ft N T iA 9 Adrian. Trajan. Nerva. Domitian. Titus. 32 31 30 29 28 27 26 25 1. THE CALIPHS AND SULTANS. 25 n.--LIST OF THE CALIPHS AND SULTANS OF EGYPT. The frequent mention of these Kings, particularly in describing the monu- ments of Cairo, and the necessity of knowing at least when they reigned, induced me to give this Chronological Table. Ommiades, or Ammawdih. Aboo Bukr, or Aboo Bekr (e' Saddek). O'mar (ebn el Khut- tdb, or Khattab). Othmdn. A'li (or Alee), and Mogwieh I. Modwieh I. Yezeed I. Mogwieh II. Merawan I. Abd el Mdlek. El Weleed I. Soolaymdn. Omar II. Yezeed II. Heshim. El Weleed II. Yezded III. Ibrahim. Merawin II. Events during their Reign. Invasion of Syria commenced. Conquest of Persia, Syria, and Egypt. A'mer, or Amr (ebn el As) enters Egypt in June, 638. Conquest of Africa begun. Ali in Arabia reigns till 661; and El Hassan, his son, nominally succeeds him, and having reigned six months abdicated, A.D. 661. Death of Hassan, 670. Modwieh in Egypt and Syria. House of Ammavdbh (Ommiades). Alone. Fruitless attack on Constanti- nople by the Saracens, His son. Hossayn killed at Kerbela. His son. [Abdallah, son of Zobafr, reigned nine years in the Hegdz (Arabia), from 64 to 73 A.H., or 684 to 693 A.D.*] His son. Conquest of Africa completed. Abd el Azdez, his brother, made a Nilo- meter at Helwin. In 76 A.H. first Arab coinage. The oldest coin found is of 79 A.H. (699 A.D.); it is a silver Der'hem. The oldest gold deendrs are of the years 91 and 92 A.H. His son. Conquest of Spain, 710. First invasion of India by the Moslems. His brother. Second failure before Con- stantinople. Was the first who founded a Nilometer at the Isle of Roda. Son of Abd el Aziez. Son of Abd el Melek. His brother. Defeat of Abd e' Rahmin in France, by Charles Martel, 732. Son of Zezied. His son. - His brother. Grandson of Merawin I.,killed at Aboosder, a town belonging to the Ffodm in Egypt. II * The Hegira, or Moslem era, begins 622 A.D., dating from the "flight" of the prophet from Mecca. To reduce any year of the Hegira to our own, we have only to add 622 to the given year, and deduct 3 for every hundred, or 1 for every 33; e.g. 1233+622=1855; then for the 1200 deduct 36, and 1 for the 33=37, leaves 1818 A.D. [Egypt.] c Egypt. Began to reign. A.D. 632 634 644 656 661 680 684 684 684 705 714 717 720 724 743 744 744 744 to 749 Dynasty of the Abbasides, or AbbaseBh, drscended from Abbas, the uncle of Mohammed: E' Seffah, Aboo 1' Abbas, Abdallah. El Munso6r, Aboo Gifer, Abdallah. El Mahdee Mo- hammed. El Hdee Moosa. Harodne' Rashe6d, or E'Rashedd Ha- rodn. El Amedn Moham- med. El Mamo6n Abdal- lah. (Ibrahim, son of El Mahdee, his competitor from 817 to 818). El Mautdssim bil- 16h, Mohammed. His brother. Bagdad is founded by Munso6r, and becomes the seat of empire. Under these Caliphs, astronomy and other sciences were particul.'rly en- curaged. His son. His son. His son. The hero of Arabian tales, the "ally" of Charle- magne, and the dread of the Romans. The Edrissites found the kingdom of Faz (Fez). His son. Son of Harodn. A great en- courager of arts and sciences, particularly astronomy. By his order Greek authors were translated into Arabic. Mea- sures a degree of the meridian. His brother. War with Theo- philus. Turkish guards taken into the service of the Caliphs. Decline of the Caliphate. Began to reign. A.D. 749 754 775 785 786 809 813 812 ? Contemporary Dynasties. Abd e' Rahmdn. Established the Ommiade dy- nasty at Cordova in Spain; an example followed by the House of Ali, the Edrissites of Mau- ritania, and the Aglebites and Fatemites of Eastern Africa. Began to reign. A.D. 755 Agldbe'h, or Aglebite Dynasty in Africa. Ibrahim ebn* (or Governor of Africa. Throws off 8 ben) el A'gleb his allegiance to the Caliphs. (or Akleb). Regular troops first introduced 8 by him. This Dynasty rules till the year A.D. 900. Kayrawan (Cairoan), 70 miles south of Tunis, was their capital. It w as founded A.D. 670. This is followed in 910 by the Fowitem or Fatem!te Dynasty. * In these names, Ibrahim el Agleb, Ahmed ebn e' Tooloon, and others, the word ebn, "son," should properly be written ben; but in speaking (at least in Egypt) ebn is used. 800 to 11 Abbas6~h, or Abbaside Dynasty. A.D. Tooloonide Kings. A.D. El Withek billih, Haro6n. El Motawikkel al Allh, Gdfer. E1 Muntisser billah Mohammed. El Mostain billah, Ahmed. El Mautfiz billh, Mohammed. El Mohtiddee bil- lh, Mohammed. El Mautummid al Allah, Alhmed. El Mauthssim bil- lh, Ahimed. El Moktuffee billh, Ali el Mautuddid. His son. The Saracens attack Rome and fail, 846. His brother. Makes the new Nilometer in the Isle of Roda. His son. The power of the Caliphs was weakened by the factions of the Taherites, in 813; Soffarides, 872; Samanides, 874; Agle- bites and Tooloonides, 800 to 906; Ikshidites, 934; Hama- danites, 892; and Bowites, 933. New sect of the Carmathians, 890. (El Mowuffu., billah, his coadjutor from 871 to 891.) 843 ? 847 861 862 866 869 870 892 902 Tooloonides, Dowlet e' Tooloondeh, in Egypt. Ah.med ebn e'Tay- Governor of Egypt. Usurps the lo6n (or e' Too- sovereignty of that country in lo6n). 868. Builds a mosk at the back of the Kuttaeea, or Kalat el Kebsh, now within the walls of Cairo, with pointed arches, in his llth year (A.H. 265, A.D. 879). Aboolgtysh Kha- His son builds a series of palaces marawdeh. from Egypt to Bagdad. His daughter Kutr e' Nedda mar- ries the Caliph Mautuddfd. Dies at Damascus in 896. Abool Asiker His son. Gaysh. Aboo Moosa Ha- His brother. ro6n. 868 884 896 897 Abbasedh, or Abbaside Dynasty. El Moktuddir bil- lh, Gdfer. El Kher* billah, Mohammed. The Carmathians under Aboo Tdher pillage Mekkeh(Mecca), 929. A.D. 908 932 to 934 Tooloonide Kings. Abool Maghizee Sheeban. Son of Ahmed ebn e' Toolo6n. Reigns ten days. In him ends this dynasty. The Caliphs re- take Egypt. Dynasty of the Fatemites (Fowdtem), or the Fatmdh Dynasty. Abayd Allah El Mahdee billah. Usurps the government of East- ern Africa. Assumes the title of Mahldee or " Guide." Sub- dues the Edrissites of Western Africa. Invades Egypt in 912. Is defeated by the forces of Moltuddir. A.D. 906 from 910 to 934 - I It II Fowtem in Africa. A.D. Contemporary Kings of Egypt. Aobasidh. A.D. Fowitem m Africa. A.D. Akhsheed Dynasty of Turks. * * E'Rdee bil- .. .. 934 El Kaiem be His son. 934 El Akhsheed, Usurpsthe go- 936 lih, Moham- amr Illah, Mohammed vernment of med. Mohammed., ebn, Tughg, Egypt. El MotiIkkide .. .. 940 e'Toorkee, el Ibrahim. Faraghinee. El Mostikfee .. .. 944 El Munsoor The Arabic character 945 Abod1 KIsem His son. 948 billah, Abd- Ismil. first employed about ebn el Akh- Allah. this time; but Cufic sheed. El Motde al The Byzan- 946 still used. Illah, El tine arms, Aboo Tum- Sends Gher el Kid 952 Abol Has- His brother. 962 Fodl. under John to mim, or El with an army.to invade to san, Ali. Zimisces, Modz le- Egypt, which he takes. Kaf6or el A slave of El 967 threaten Bag- 974 deen-Illah, G6her founds a new 969 Akhsheedee. Akhsheed. dad. Aboo Tum- city, under the name Abo6l Fowa- Son of Ali, 969 mdem (Tum- of Musr El KIherah ris, A1.med. deposed by to mim) Maad (Cairo) A. H. 358. In Goher. 970 (his son). 362 A. H. it becomes the capital of Egypt. El Modz arrives him- self in 360 A. H., and removesthe seat of em- pire to Cairo, leaving Yusef ebn Zeiri, his viceroy, in Africa. I Abbasedh. E'Tdieea billah, Abd el Kereem El KIdder billih, Ahmed. El Kaiem be Omr Illah, Ab- dallah. El Moktiddee billkih, Abdallah. Rise of the Turkmans, 980. Mahmood created Sultin by the Caliph, in 997; overruns, about the year 1000, the whole of the provinces from the Cas- pian to India, which he also invades. Rise of the Seljuk Dynasty. Peter the Hermit, 995. Alp Aslan, nephew of Togrul, defeats Romanus, Emperor of Constantinople, and takes him prisoner, 1063. Accession of Melek Shah, 1072. Jerusalem taken, 1076. Divi- sion of the Seljuk empire into Persian, Kermani, Syrian, and Room Dynasties, 1092. Began to reign. A.D. 974 991 1031 1075 to 1094, Fowitem in Egypt. El Moez. El Azeiz billah, Abo61 Nusr, Nizar. El Hikem, be Omr - Illah, Aboo - Ali, Munsoor (his son). E'Zdher, or E'Dthdher le Azdz deen Illah. Aboo Tummim, El Mostinser Billah (his son). (as above). His son. The incarnation of the Deity, according to the Druses, toge- ther with Derari and Hamzeh founds this new sect. A mosk of his remains at Cairo, with pointed arches, and date 393 A. n. or 1003 A.D. His son. Moez, third successor of Yusef ebn Zeiri, in 1050, defeated by Mostintuser, whose rights to the African throne had been dis- puted. (William I. of England, 1066 to 1087. William II., 1087 to 1100.) Began to reign. A.D. 969 975 996 1021 1036 to 1094 C3 0O 0. ~----~---~ ''L ~l - i El Mostizhir billih, Ah.med. El Mostxrshid billah, El Fodl. E'Rashied billih. El Mokttiffee le- omr-Illah, Mo- hammed. El Mostunged billah, Yusef. Expedition of Godfrey de Bouillon, and taking of Jeru- salem, 1096-99. Foundation of the Mohades Dy- nasty in Africa and Spain, 1120. Crusade of the Emperor Con- rad III. and Louis VII., 1148; Noor e'deen, son of Zenghi, in Syria, 1145-74. 1094 1118 1136 1136 1160 to 1170 El Mostilee bil- lh, Abo6l Kasim,. Ah med (his son). El Amr, be-ah- kam Illah, Aboo All el Munsoor. El Hhfuz le deen Illah, Abd el Megeed, Mo- hammed. E'Dthfer, Illah, Ismail. El Fiyez, le Nusr Illah, Aesa. El Aidud le deen Illah, Abdallah. Takes Jerusalem from the Turks, 1098. It is taken by the Latins in 1099. (Henry I. succeeds in 1100. First Cru- sade, 1098.) (Stephen, 1136.) (Henry II., 1154.) His son. The intrigues of Shawer and Darghan bring about the dis- solution of this Dynasty in Egypt. The Franks pene- trate to Cairo under Amaury, or Amalric, king of Jerusa- lem; the city is burnt on their approach, and they are forced to retreat. 1094 1101 1130 1149 1155 1160 to 1171 Abbasgeh. El Mostfiddee be-Noor-Illah. E'Naser le-deen- Illah, Ahmed. Fourth Crusade. Taking of Constantinople by the French andVenetians,from the Greeks, 1204. Fifth Crusade, 1218. A.D. 1170 1180 to 1255 Fowitem in Egypt. Eiyoobeeh, or Aioobite Sultdns of Egypt. Curd Dynasty. El Melek Yusef, Salah -e'deen; or E'Niser Sa- lh-e'deen, Yoo- sef ebn Eiyoob. (Saladin.) El Milek e'deen, or Melek el Az- dez, Othman. El M lek el Munsoor, Mo- hammed. El Milek el A'del, Sayf-e'- deen, Aboo Bukr (Bekr). (Melek Adel.) Retakes Jerusalem from the Crusaders, in 1187. Crusade of the Emperor Frederick I. (Barbarossa), and Philippe Auguste, and Richard Cceur de Lion, 1189-1191. His second son. (Melek Afdal, his eldest son, ruled in Syria.) His son; a child. (In England the large massy co- lumn of Norman architecture began to be divided into smaller pilasters; and the arch took a pointed form about 1180-1200. See above, 868 A.D.)- Brother of Saladin, usurps the throne. Fifth Crusade. The Franks penetrate into Egypt, and take Damietta, but are obliged to abandon it, 1218- 1221. A.D. cc 1171 1193 1200 1200 IIr- Abbas6h. A.D. Aioobite Sultans. AD. E'Dthaher, or E'Zher billih, Mohammed. El Mostinsir billih, Ahmed. 1225 1226 to 1242 El Milek el Ki- mel, Mohammed. El Milek el A'del, Aboo Bekr. E1MeIlek E'Sileh, Eiyoob, Nigm e'deen. El Melek el Mo- ezzem, Tarawin Shah. Shegeret e'do6r, Ong Khaliel. El Mdlek el Ashraf Moosa. His son. Crusade of Frederick II., who obtains possession of Jerusa- lem, Bethlehem, Nazareth, Tyre, and Sidon, 1228. His son. His brother. The date on his tomb is 647 A.H. (1249 A.D.). Sixth Crusade. St. Louis takes Damietta, 1249. In advancing towards Cairo the Count d'Ar- tois is killed, and the king taken prisoner. On the eva- cuation of Damietta, and the payment of 400,000 pieces of gold, he is released. His son, murdered by his father's Meml6oks. He was not his son by Shegeret e' door. Widow of Sileh, after three months abdicates. From 1250 to 1254. Deposed by Moiz, who dates from the beginning of this reign. 1218 1238 1239 1249 1250 1250 Abbas64h. A.D. Aioobite Sultans. A.D. Baharite Memlooks, Sultdns, or Kings of Egypt. Dowlet el 1Ifemaleek el Bahrdih or Toorkdh. El Mostisum In whom ended the Caliphate 1242 billah. of Asia. to 1258 Nominal Caliphate of the Abbas 'Ch, in Egypt. El Hakim be Omr Illah, AIi- med e'Rasheed, el Abbisee. Appointed Caliph in the time of E'Ziher Baybirs, in 1263, and died in 1302. El Moiz, Ez- e'deen, I'bek e' Toorkominee. e'Silehee. El Munsoor Noor e'deen, All. El Moziffer Sayf e'deen, Kotoz el Moizzee. E'Zher Baybers el Bendul.daree (a Memlook of E'Saleh). Called also Rookn-e' deen and Aboo'l Fot6oh. Mohammed e Steed, Narer e' deen. Birakat Illah. El Aidel Beider e'deen, Saldmish. Marries Shegeret e'door, and is killed by her from jealousy. His son. Syria, which had been con- quered by the Tartars (Tatars), recovered by Egypt in 1260. Succeeds, having assassinated his predecessor. Syria again invaded by the Tartars. Bay- bers marches thither, andtakes Damascus. In 1264-5 he again goes into Syria, and extends his conquests over great part of Armenia. (St. Louis dies before Tunis, 1270.) His son. His brother. 1250 1256 1259 1260 1277 1278- 1279 0 - ___ -- Abbasgh in Egypt. A.D. Baharite Memlook Kings. A.D. Dowlet el Kalaoondfh, e' Salahdeh ; a division of the same Baharite Dynasty. El Munsodr Ka- la6on (a Mem- look of E' Saleh.) El A'shraf Salih e'deen, Khaleel. E' 1 iser i oham- med. Ebn Ka- laodn. El Aidel Ket- bogha el Mun- sooree. El Munsdor He- sim e'deen La- gden, el Mun.. s6oree. E' Naser Moham- med EbnKaladon (restored). In 1279-80 sends an army into Syria, and recovers Damascus, lost to Egypt since the death of Baybirs. Founds the Hospital of Morostan in Cairo, 1286. His son. Takes Akkeh (Acre) from the Christians. His brother. Syria again overrmun by the Tar- tars, 1295-6. An Egyptian army sent against the Tartars, who had obtained possession of all Syria, com- pletely defeated. The Tartars are routed by a second Egyp- tian army, and driven beyond the Euphrates, 1302-3. 1279 1290 1293 1294 1296 1299 Abbasieh in Egypt. A.D. Baharite Memlook Kings. A.D. El Mostikfee bil- lh Soolayman. El Withek billh, Ibrahim. El Hakem be Omr Illah, Ah- med. His son. Abdicated, and was banished to Koos by Niser Mohammed, who crowned El Withek as the new caliph. Deposed by Naser at his death. Son of Mostikfee. 1302 1341 1341 El Medeffir, or el Mozuffer, Rookn-e' deen, Baybers, e' Ga- shenkier, el Mun- sooree. E' Naser Moham- med, Ebn Ka- la6on (restored again). El Munsoor Aboo Bekr. El Ashraf Ke- gek. E' Naser Shahab e'deen, Ahmed. E' Saleh Ismail. El Kimel Sha- ban. El Meduffer (or Mezuffer) Ha- gee. E' Niser Hassan. E' Sdleh, Salih- e'deen. E' Niser Hassan (restored). Agriculture raged. and the arts encou- His son. His brother. His brother. His brother. His brother. His brother. His brother. Built the mosk of Sultan Hassan in Cairo. 1309 1310 1341 1341 1342 1342 1345 1345 1348 1351 1354 Abbasdlh in Egypt. A.D. Borg6h, or Circassian Memlooks. A.D. El Mautuddid bil- 1h, Aboo Bekr. El Motawikkel al Allh, Moham- med. El Mautussim Za- kardeh. El Motawdkkel. El Wdthek billih, Omar. His brother. His son, deposed in .. .. Deposed after one month. Restored, and deposed again after six years. El Mautissim Za- Restored in 1387, and reigned kardeh. till 1390. 1352 1362 1378 1378 1384 1387 El Munsoor Mo- hammed. El Ashraf Shaban. (A great-grand- son of Kala6on.) I El Munsoor Ali. E' Sdleh IHIgee. Son of HIgee, the son of I.a- ladon. The first who ordered the She- reefs, or descendants of the Pro- phet, to wear green turbans. In 1365 Peter de Lusignan, King of Cyprus, besieges Alex- andria and fails. Deposed .. .. .. Dowlet el M2emaleek el Borgqdh, e' Gerdkseh (or Tcherkasdh), Circassian or Borgite Memlook Kings. E' Zdher Berk6ok. E' N ser Fdrreg. Marches into Syria, and twice repulses the Tartars under Tee- moorlang, or Teem6or (Tamer- lane or Timur), in 1393-4. His son. The governor of Syria having re- belled, dfirreg marches against him, takes him prisoner, and puts him to death, 1399-1400. The Tartars again invade Syria: Firreg marches against them, but is defeated, and returns to Egypt, 1400-1. He recovers Syria, 1405-6. 1361 1363 1377 1381 to 1382 1382 1399 _ _ _ _ _ I I E Motawuikkel. El Mostain billh, Aboo '1 Fodl, el Abbas. El Mautuddid bil- lh aboo'1Fet-h, IDaood. El Mostukfee bil- lh, Soolaymin. Restored again and died in 1406. His son, deposed by Moaiud Shekh,in 1413, and imprisoned, at Alexandria till his death. His brother. His brother. El Kaiem be-omr- His brother; deposed by El Illih, Hamza. Ashraf Eenil, in 1455, and exiled to Alexandria. 1390 1406 to 1413 1413 1442 1452 El Munsoor Abd el Azeez. E' Niser Frirreg (restored).* El Motiud, Aboo 1' Nusr, Shekh. El Meduffer Ah- med. E' Zaher, Aboo '1 Futteh, Tatr. E' Saleh Moham- med. El Ashraf, Bursa- bai, or Borosbai. Abd el Azeez, Aboo '1 Mahasin, Yoosef. E' Zaher Gek- meh. El Munsoor Oth- man. El Ashraf Eenl. Reigns forty-seven days. The para. was, until this reign, of a drachm's weight of silver, and Moaiud coined, instead of it, the modiudee, now corrupted into miydee. Attacks Cyprus, and, taking John III. prisoner, enforces the regu- lar payment of tribute, 1423-4. * According to a MS. in my possession, of the Noozhet e' Nazereen. 1406 1406 1412 1421 1421 1421 1422 1438 1438 1453 1453 M H 5*** I I i Borg'ieh, or Circassian Metaloolms A.D. Abbaseeh in Egypt. A.D. Aba _h og1,o Crasa elos ElMostunged bil- lh, Aboo 1' Ma- hsisin Yisef. El Motawikkel (or Metawikkel) al Allah, Aboo '1 Ez, Abd el Azedz. El Mostunsik bil- lah, Yakoob, or Mostunsir billah. His brother. His cousin. His son. 1455 1480 1497 ElMoaiudAhmed. E' ZaherKhoosh- kudm. E' Zaher Bolbai. E' Zaher Tumr Bogha. El Ashraf Aboo '1 Nusr, Kaidbai (or Kaitbay), e' Zdheree. E' Naser Moham- med, Aboo '1 Sa- dit. El Ashraf Kan- so6h. E' Naser Moham- med. E' Zaher, Aboo Saeed, Kan- sooh. El Ashraf Gan- balit. El A'del Toman Bai (Bay). A.D. Gives the crown of Cyprus to James, son of John III., on con- dition of receiving tribute. .. .. .. After a successful war against the Turks, concludes a treaty of peace with them, 1490-1. Fall of Grenada, in the reign of Ferdinand and Isabella, and ex- tinction of the Moslem power in Spain, 1492. Son of Kaitbay, reigned six months. A Memlook of Kaitbay, eleven days. Son of Kaitbay, one year and a half. Abbaseh. Borgeeh~l, or Circatssia~n Memlooks. A.D. 1461 1461 1467 1467 1468 1496 1496 1496 1498 1500 1500 Abbas6h. A.D. Borge6h, or Circassian Memlooks. A.D. El Motawikkel al Allah, Moham- med. His son, taken to Constantino- ple by Sultan Selim. After the death of Selim he returned to Egypt, and reigned there till 1543, when he died, in the time of Daood Pasha. In him ended the Caliphate in Egypt. The Sultans of Con- stantinople thenceforward as- sumed the title of Caliph. 1517 to 1543 El Ashraf Kan- so6h el Ghdoree (or El Gh6ree). El Ashraf Toman Bai,or Toman Bay (his nephew). Defeated by the Turks under Sultan Selim, near Aleppo, and slain. The Turks advance to Egypt. Elected by the Memlooks to suc- ceed El Gh6ree; defeated by the Turks near Heliopolis, and in a second battle taken pri- soner, and hanged at the Bab- Zooayleh, in Cairo, A.D. 1517. 1501 1517 Sultan Selim abolished the Monarchy, but left the Aristocracy of the Memlooks, on certain conditions; the chief of which were-annual tribute, obedience in matters of faith to the decisions of the Mufti of Constantinople, and the insertion of the name of the Sultan of the Osmanlis in the public prayers and on the coin. But the total subversion of the power of the Memlooks dates, in reality, from the invasion of the French and the subsequent occupation of Egypt by the Turks; and the finishing stroke to their real or nominal power, and to their very existence, has been since put by Mohammed Ali. Egypt. O. POINTS REQUIRING EXAMINATION. 41 0. CERTAIN POINTS REQUIRING EXAMINATION. The attention of those who are induced to make researches might be usefully directed to the follo wing points :- 1. Alexandria.-Ascertain the sites of the buildings of the old city. 2. Canopic branch.-Ascertain the site of Naucratis, Anthylla, and Archandra, and the course of the Canopic branch. 3. Sais.-Excavate, and make a plan of Sais: at least look for the temple of Neith. 4. Delta.-Examine the sites of the ruined towns in the Delta. Look for their name in the hieroglyphics, and for Greek inscriptions; but particularly for duplicates of the Rosetta Stone. Look at Fort Julian below Rosetta for the upper part of that stone. A trilingular stone is said to be at Menouf, and others at Tanta and Cairo. 5. Heliopolis.-'Excavate (if possible) the site of the temple of Heliopolis; and look for the tombs of Heliopolis. 6, Pyramids.-Look for the hieroglyphic record mentioned in the Greek in- scription in honour of Balbillus, found before the Sphinx. 7. Memphiis.-Make a plan of Memphis. Excavate about the Colossus for the temple. Examine the mounds. Those at the nitre-works are modern. 8. Look for new names of Memphite kings, about the pyramids, Sakkara, and the site of Memphis. 9. Look for trilingular stones in the mosks of Cairo. 10. Onice.-Excavate the mounds of Onice, and look for the temple built by Onias. 11. Ahnasieh.-Ascertain the hieroglyphic name of Ahnasieh (Heracleopolis). 12. At Dayr Aboo Honnes, S. of Antinol, examine the Convent in the village, which is said to be of early time. S13. Metdhara.-Copy kings' names at the tombs of Metihara, and coldmns with full-blown lotus capitals. 14. IHermopolitana and Thebaica Phylace.-Look for tombs in the neighbour- hood. 15. Ekhmim.-Look for its tombs. Ascertain the hieroglyphic name of the goddess Thriphis. [See Ekhmim.] 16. Thebes.-Copy all the astronomical ceilings in the tomb of Memnon, and other tombs of the kings; also the whole series of the sculptures and hieroglyphics of one entire tomb. 17. .Esnd.-Look for inner chambers of the temple behind the portico. Ex- amine the old Convent. 18. Ascertain what town stood near El Kenan, and the pyramid of Koola. 19. Edfoo.--Copy the great hieroglyphic inscription of 79 columns. 20. Asouan.-Look for early Saracenic buildings, and the oldest pointed arches. 21. Oasis.-Ascertain the date of the crude brick pointed arch given by Mr. Hoskins at Doosh. 22. Ethiopia.-Copy the names and sculptures of Upper Ethiopia, and make a list of Ethiopian kings according to their succession, and ascertain their dates. 23. Mount Sinai.-Make a plan of the temple at Sardbut el Khadem. There is a monument in Asia Minor, which is said to be Egyptian. If so, it is probably one of the stele of Sesostris mentioned by Herodotus; and similar to those on the Lycus, near Beyroot, in Syria, which I saw and copied, in spite of idea of M. De Saulcy that they are not there. It is the figure of a man, cut on the rock, near Ny3mphio, the ancient Nymphaeum, about 15 feet from the ground, with a javelin in his hand; and was seen by the Rev. G. 42 p. ENGLISH AND ARABIC VOCABULARY. Sect. I. Renouard some years ago, who observes that one of the ancient roads from Mysia to Lydia passed that way. The Norek (or Noreg), a machine used by the modern Egyptians for threshing corn. p. ENGLISH AND AnABIC VOCABULARY. In introducing this imperfect Vocabulary, I must observe that it is only intended for a person travelling in Egypt, to which the dialect I have followed particularly belongs. I have kept in view, as much as possible, the English pronunciation, guiding my mode of spelling by the sound of a word, rather than by its Arabic orthography, and have consequently so far transgressed, that I have now and then introduced a p, which letter does not exist in Arabic, but which nevertheless comes near to the pronunciation in certain words. I have also thought it better to double some of the consonants, hi order to point out more clearly that greater stress is to be put on those letters, rather than follow the orthography of the Arabic, where one only was used. He, his, him, at the end of words, should properly be written with an h ; but I have merely expressed it, as pronounced, with oo. For the verbs I have preferred the second singular of the imperative, which in an Arabic vocabulary for general use is better than the third person singular of the perfect tense (though this gives the root), or than the infinitive (mdsder). Those in Italics are either derived from, have been the origin of, or bear analogy to, an European or other foreign word. I may also observe, that I have sometimes introduced words used only by the Arabs (of the desert), and some of the common expressions of the people, in order that these (when of frequent occurrence) might not be unknown to a traveller; but in general the first and second words are the most used. The four kinds of Arabic are the ammee, vulgar or jargon; ddrig, common parlance; ldghawee, literal; and ndhree, grammatical. PRONUNCIATION. The a, as in father; ay, as in may; a or d, very broad, and frequently nasal. E, as in end; ee, as in seek; ee/, nearly as in the Italian mie. Egypt. p. ENGLISH AND ARABIC VOCABULARY. 43 Ai and ei, as in German, or as y in my; but ai rather broader. A single e, at the end of words, as in Doge, stroke, &c. I, as in is. J, as in English, but for it I have almost always used g. Indeed in Lower Egypt the g (gim), which should be soft, like our j, is made hard, and pronounced as if followed by a short i, like the Italian word Ghiaccio; but whatever letter it precedes or follows, it should properly be pronounced soft. For the ghain, however, I use gh, a hard guttural sound. Dj as j. H, as our h; and h with a dot, a very hard aspirate. K, as in kill. For the kaf, or gaf, I have used k with a dot, or line, below it. Its sound is very nearly that of a hard g, almost guttural, and much harder than our c, in cough. Indeed it is frequently pronounced so like a g that I have sometimes used that letter for it. Kh, as the German ch and Greek x, but much more guttural. 0, as in on, unless followed by w. 0 as in go; 5 and 6, rather broader; oo as in moon; ow, as tn cow. R is always to be distinctly pronounced, as well as the h in ah; this h is fre- quently as hard as ch in loch. S, and sh, as in English; but s, a hard and rather guttural sound. T, as in English; and with a dot, t, very hard, almost as if preceded by u. Dth is like our th in that. U, as in bud: qu, as in English, when followed by another vowel: as quiyis, or queiis, "pretty." Y, as in yes at the commencement, and as in my in the middle of syllables. Before words beginning with t, th, g, d, dth, r, z, s, sh, and n, the 1 of the article el is ellipsed, and the e alone pronounced; thus el shemdl reads e' shemdl, the left, or with the consonant doubled, esh-shemdl; e' ras, or er-rds, the head. The doubled consonant, indeed, is nearer the pronunciation. Words within a parenthesis are either uncommonly used, as khobs, kisra, for " bread," or are intended, when similar to the one before, to show the pronun- ciation, as makasheh (magasheh), a "broom;" though the two words are often only separated by or, and a comma. Some give another meaning. I ought to observe that the difference of letters, as the two h's, t's, and others, is not always marked, but those only which I have thought of most importance, and in some words only here and there, to show their orthography. ENGLISH AND ARABIC VOCABULARY. . Able kad er. About howalafn. Above fok, or foke. Absurdity mus'khera. Abundance zeeadeh. Abuse, v. ish'tem. Abuse, s. shetedmeh. Abusive lan- id. guage By accident; see ghusbinlnee (i. e. in By force spite of myself). Accounts, or hesib. reckoning Add up eg'ma. Adore abed. Advantage, pro- ffda, or ftideh, fit nef'fa. Afraid kheif (khyf). I am afraid ana kheif, a-khif. After bid. Afterwards ba'ddn, bad-ztilik. Again kummum, kummum Age om'r. [ndba, tinee. His age om'roo. Agent wekel. Long ago zemdn. Agree, v. ittef'fuk. A pledge,earnest, arbodn. in an agree- ment We agreed to- itteffuk'na wdeabid. gether Air how'a, or how'eh. Alabaster mar-mor, boorfee'r.' Alive hei, siheh (awake). All, collectively gimleh, gemmbean. 44 All All together At all Allow, v. Almond Aloe Alphabet Also Alter, v. Altitude Alum Always Amber America Amuse, v. Anchor Ancient The ancients And Et coetera Angel Anger To be angry Angle Animal Ankle Annoy, v. Annoyed Another Answer Answer, v. You are answer- able for Ant Antimony Ape Apostle Apparel It appears Appetite Apple p. ENGLISH AND ARABIC VOCABULARY. kool, koolloo, pl. kool-loohom. koolloo weeabad, kolloohom sow'a. wdsel. khal'lee. l1z, or loze. subbira. ab'ged. la'kher, gazilik, aidun. ghdier. - ertifth. sheb. diiman, or dfman. ka.rimifn. Ydnkcee dodneea (Turk- ish, i. e. the New WQrld). itwun'nes. mur'seh, helb. kadeifm, antdeka. e' nas el kadeim. oo. oo ghayr zilika. malik, pl. maleiikeh. kahr, ghudb, zemk, homk. ez'muk, ugh'dub, inham'mek. zow'yeh. hywan. kholkhifl. iz'al. zdilfn. wahed tinee, wahed ghayroo. gowab (jowib). rood, or roodd. ilzemak. nem'el, or neml. kol. (for the eyes ) Ezek. xxiii. 40; 2 Kings, ix. 30. kird, pl. kordod (gor6od). rosso6l. lips (libs), hedodm, howdig. bain, or byin. nefs. teffsih. Sect. I. Love apple (to. bedingin-1. ta. mata) Custard apple kish'teh. Apricot (fresh mishmish. or dry) - dried sheet kumredien (kumr- of, eddeen). Arabic A'rabee. In Arabic bil A'rabee. Arab (i. e. of the Beddowee, pl. Arab * desert) (Shekh - el - Arab, an Arab chief). Arch, bridge kintara. Architect mehiudez. The ark of Noah sefeinet safdna Nodeh. Arm (of man) drah. Arms (weapons) sillah, soollih. Arrange, v. sullah, sil-lah. Arrangement tusld&sh. Art, skill sun'na. Artichoke khar-shdof. As zay. Be, or I am, astayhee, akhtishee. ashamed. Ashes roomid. Ass himir. Ask, v. essal, saal. Ask for, v. etloob. Assist, v. sad, saad. At fee, and. Avaricious tumma'. Awake, v. a. saheh. - , v. n. as'her. Awl mukh'ruz. Awning (of a esh'eh, tenda (Ttal.). boat, &c.) Axe, or hatchet bal'ta. Pickaxe fis, todree (Coptic). Mack Back stream, eddy Bad (see Good) A bag Bald Ball Balsam Banana Bank of a river Barber Bark, . ddhr, kuffg'. shiymeh, sheimeh ridee, wihesh, moosh- ty'eb. kees, or keese. ak'ra. k5'ra. belisdn. moz (moze). gerf, shut. mezayin, mezafn. M bhab. * Beddowee and Arab have the same meaning; one is generally singular, the other plural thus, "that is an Arab," "da Beddowee; "those are Arabs," "d6ol Arab." p. ENGLISH AND ARABIC VOCABULARY. Bark, s. kishr (gishr). Barley shayeer. Barrel burmedl. Basket muk'taf, kffah. - (of palm kffass. sticks) Wicker - me-shdnneh. Basin tusht, or tisht. Bat (bird) watwat, pl. wataweet Bath hammam. Bathe, v. istahamma. Battle barb, shemmata. Bead kharras, hab. Beads, string of, sib'ha. carried by the Moslems Beans fool. Bear, support, v. is'ned; (raise) er'fa (see Carry). Bear, put up istah'mel. with, v. The bearer rafa. The bearer of rafa hiza e'gowab. this letter A bear dib'-h. Beard dagn, dakn. His beard daknoo. Beat, v. id'rob (drub). A beating derb, hal'ka, kut'leh. Beau, dandy shellebee, fun'garee. Beauty queidsa, koueidsa. Beautiful quei-is, quiyis. Because seb'bub, beseb'bub. Become ib'ka (ib'ga). Bed fersh, fursh. Bedstead sereer. Bee dabdor (dabbodr). Hive-bee nahl, ndh-1. Beef lahm bukkar, lahm Beetle Before (time) Before (place) Beg, v. Beggar The beginning Behind Believe, v. I do not believe Bell Belly This belongs to me khishn. [fus. giran, or joran, kh6n- kub'lee. kod-dim. ish'-hat. shahdt. el owel, el as'sel, assl, el ebtiddh. warra, min kuffdh. sed'delk. ana ma aseddek'shee or lem aseddelk. gilgil, nakdos. batn, or botn. deh betiee, f. dee be- tatee (betalttee is used, but is vulgar). Below (see Under) A bench Bend, v. Bent (crooked) Berry Besides , except The best Better You had better do so A bet Betray, v. Between Beyond Bible Big Bill, account Bird, small -, large Bit, piece of a horse Bite, v. Bitter Black Blade Blanket Blind Blood Blow, v. A blow Blue (see Co- lours) Light blue Sky-blue Blunt A wild boar A board Boat Boat, ship Boatman Body Boil, v. Boiled (water) - (meat) Bone Book Boot tah-t. mus'taba. et'nee, inten'nee. mitnee (madog). hab. ghayr, khelaf. illa, il'. el ah'san. ah'san, a-khdyr.- ah'san timel keddee. rdhaneh. khoon. bayn. bad, warra (i. e. be- hind). towrat. kebder. hesab. asf6or. tayr. het'teh. legim. odd, or add. morr. as'wed, f. sdda or sS'deh ; az'rek (blue, or jet black). sillilt. herim, buttandih. amidn (see Eye). dum. um'fookh. derb; on the face, kuff (English, cuff). az'rek, koh 'lee. genzaree, scander- anee. semmdwee. bard (i. e. cold). I.tal6of. l1. sefieneh, kyaseh, felodkah, sandal. mirkeb. ndotee, marakebee, tyfeh. gessed, bed'dan. ighlee. mugh'lee. maslodk. adm, Adthm, ithm. ketib, pl. kodttub. gez'ma. Egypt. 45 46 Border - of cloth, selvage Born Borne, raised Borrow Both Bottle -, square -, earthen, for water Bottom, of a box, &c. Bow Bow and arrows Bowl Box Small box Boy Brain Brandy Brass Brave Bread Roll of bread Breadth , extent Break, v. Broken Breakfast Breast Breath Bribe Brick Crude brick Bride Bridge Bridle ----- of a camel Bright ---- shining - light co- lour Bring, v. Broad - extensive p. ENGLISH AND ARABIC VOCABULARY. harf, terf (turf). keenir. mowlodd. merfoda. sellef. el ethnden, waked oo e'tinee, dee oo dee (i. e. this and that). kezas, geztiz (i. e. glass). morub'ba. koolleh, ddrak, bar- dak (Turkish). kar (gar). ks (kz). ks oo nishdb. kus'sah. senddok, pl. sena- diek. el'beh, as elbet e'neshok, a snuff- box. wellet, or wullud (whence valet); Si- bee (i.e. chubby) makh, demigh. ar'rakay (arakee). ndhiss-dsfer, esped- r~iyg. gedda. esh (khobs, ki'sra). rakdef esh. ord. wuissa. ek'ser. maksor; cut (as a rope), muktod6a. fotodr. sdidr (sidr). neffes (nef'fess). bertedl. k ileb, toob d1h'mar. toob'ny. Srodseh. kan'tara. soor'ra. rus'n (russen) menower. lama-it is, yilm5. maftdoh. cat, geeb. creed. wdsa. Broom Brother His brother Brother-in-law Brush Buckle Buffalo Buffoon Bug Build A building Bull Burden, or load of camels Buried Burn, v. Burnt Bury, v. Business Busy But, adv. Butter -, fresh Buy, v. By, pr. Cabbage Cabin -, inner Cable, rope Cairo Cake Calamity Calculate, v. Calico (from Calicut) Caliph Call, v. It is called What is it called ? What is his name? A calm Camel (see Ship) -, female -, young male - , young fe- male Camp Sect. I. me-kisheh (pro- nounced magdsheh). akh. akhdo; my-akhdoia (akhdoya). nesdeb. foor'sheh. ebzdem, bezedm. gamoos (jamdos). Sdotaree. buk (Engl. bug). eb'nee. bendi, bindieh. tor or tore (taurus). hem'leh. madfodn. ah'rek, .eed. malhrook. id'fen. shoghl. mashghodl. lken, likin, likdn. semn, mds-lee. zib'deh. ish'teree. be (by kindness, bil mardof). krodmb. mak'at (mag'at). khaz'neh. luib1 (cable). Musr, Misr, Musr el Kaherah. kahk (cake). dur'rer, azieh. ah'seb. buf'teh. Khaldefeh. en'di, hellem, nidem. es'moo, ikoolahoo. es'moo dy ? esh es'- moo? es'moo dy ? esh es'- moo? ghaleenee. gem'mel, pl. geml. ndka (nkeh). kadot (gadot). buk'kara. or'dee (whence horde ?). p. ENGLISH AND ARABIO VOCABULARY. Camphor kafdor. I can ana ak'der. I cannot ma-akddr-shee. Candle shem'ma. - , wax shemma skander- anee. Candlestick shemmadin. Cannon mad'feh. Cap, red tarbdosh. , white takdea (takilh). Capacious wasa. Captain (cf a rfis, reis. boat) Caravan 1.af'leh. Care igtehid. Take care o'-a, ah'seb Take care of ah'fuz, istalh'rus. I don't care ana milee. - about it ana milee oo maloo. (or him) Careful waee Carpenter negdr (nujjir). Carpet segadeh (fr. seged, "to pray.") , large keldem, boossit. Carrion fateds, fatdese. Carry, lift, v. sheel, ayn; drfa. , raise Carry away, v. sheel, wod'dee. Cart, carriage arabdeh, araba. Cartridge rem'ieh, tamdereh. Case (dtui) zerf, bayt, dlbeh, hlk. Cat k.ott (gott, f. got(ta); bissays; biss. Catch, v. el'hak, - in the hand el'koof. Cattle bahdem, bookgr. Cauliflower karnabeet. The cause e'sebbub. A cave maghara. Ceiling sulkf. The centre el woost (middle). Cerastes snake hdi bil krdon. Certainly mlodm, malodmak, helbet we labodb. Chain sil'sileh, pl. selhisil. Chair, stool koor'see, pl. karisee. Chamber 'da, pl. 'ad. Chance, good bukht, nusdeb, rizk fortune (risk, risque). Charcoal fah'm. Charity has'aneh, sow-db, lil- lah. A charm hegb. Chase, v. istad. Chase, s. sayd. Cheap ra-kheds. Cheat, v. ghushm, ghush'-im, ghish. Cheek khud. Cheese gibn. Cherrystick pipe shibook kerdys. Child, boy wulled. Children welhid. Choke, strangle, v. itkEhinnilk. Choose, v. nuk'kee (nug'gee). Christian nusrdnee*, pl. Nas- sara (Nazarene). Church keneeseh. Cinnamon k.eer'feh (i. e, bark). Circle ddira, dyreh. Cistern hod, hode. Citadel kl. City, capital meddeneh. Civet zubbet, zubbeddh. Civility mar6of. Clean, v. nadduf. - as a pipe sel'lik. Clean, adj. nadedf. Clear rdi-ik, rek.. Clever shiater. Cleverness shutdra. Cloak b6rnoos. Close, near gardi-ib (garf-ib). Close, v. ik.'fel. Closet khaz'neh. Cloth gooh (see Linen). Clouds ghaym, sahib. Clover bersim' (bursdem). Coals fahm hag'gar (i. "stone charcoal"). A live coal bus'sa, bussa-t-nar, gumr. Coarse, rough khishn. Coast bur, shet. Cobweb ankab6ot. Cock deck (Engl. dicky- bird). Cock-roach sursar. Coffee k. ah'-weh. Raw coffee bonn, bon. Coffee-pot bikrag, teinnekeh (see Cup). Coins gid'dat, or gddud. Cold bard. The cold el berd, e' sulk'kl~ (sug'a). Collect, v. lim. * "He shall be called a Nazarene." 47 Egypt. 48 College Colour Colours black white red scarlet dark red purple-blue purple primrose peach - of ashes green dark blue light blue sky-blue brown light brown yellow orange spotted dark colour light Comb Come, v. Come up, v. I am (he is) coming Come here I came Common, low Compass Compasses Complain, v. - of, v. Composed of Consequently Consulate Consult, v. Constantinople C6ntinent, land, shore Continue, v. By contrast Convent Conversation Cook Cook, v. Cooked meat p. ENGLISH AND ARABIC VOCABULARY. mad'resee. o16n (lone), pl. elwin. shikl, pl. ashkAl. elwin, ashkil. as'wed, az'rek ; f. soda, zer'ka. ab'iad, f. bayda. al/mar, f. ham'ra. wer'dee. ah'mar ddoddh. 6odee. men'oweish. bum'ba. kh6kh-ee. roomddee. akhder, f. khidra. az'rek, f. zer'ka, ko'hlee. genzaree, skanderd- nee. semmawee. as'mar, f. sam'ra. kamm6onee. as'fer, f. saf'fra. portokinee. menulk'rush (menug'- rush), munko6sh. ghamuk. muft6oh. misht. ig'gee. et'l fok (fake). ina (hooa) gei. (gy). [taal. tIal hennee, tal gei, ana gayt. witee. boos'leh, bayt-dbree. bee-kir. ish'-kee. ishtek'ee. mitruk'kib min. behay's in (since). bayt el K6nsol. shower (show'wer). Stamb6ol, Istamb6ol. bIr (burr). istamir, ber'dak. melkdwleh (megdw- leh). dayr. hadiet. tabbikh. et'bookh. tabee'kh. Sect. I. Cooked, drest mestow'ee. The cool e' tarow'eh, taraw'eh. Coop, for poultry kaf'fass. Copper nahass. A copy (of book) noos'kha, nooskheh. Cord (see Rope) habl, hab'bel. Cork, of a bottle ghutta kezdss. Corn ghulleh. Indian corn, or do6ra Shimee. mayz Corn, or wheat kumh (gumh). Cornelian haggar-hakeek. Corner ro6k-n.- , Corner, project- koor'neh (goorna). ing, of a moun- tain It costs es'-wa. Cotton kdton. Cotton stuff kotneeh. Cover, v. ghuttee. Cover ghutta. Cough kohh, sehl1. Count, v. ed, dlh-seb. A country belled, ekleem. The country el khulla, el khala. A couple goz, ethnden (two). A couple and a goz o00 ferd. half Cousin ebn am, f. bint am. - on mother's ebn khal. side Cow bukkar, bukkara, pl. bookar,boogdr (Lat. Vacea). Coward khowif (khowwaf). Cream kish'teh. Creator el khiluk. Creation khulk. A crack, fissure shuck (shug.) Cracked mishk6ok. Crocodile temsdlh, pl. temasdeh. Crooked ma6og. Cross seldeb. Cross, out of zemkin, zTlin. humour Crow ghorab. Cruel mol 'zee, hazee. Cruelty azeih, azab. Cultivate, v. ez'ra, i. e. sow. Cunning, artful sihab hay'leh, sd- 1.hab dubar'ra. Cup soltani~h. - glass koba, koobai, koo- Coffee-cup fingan. [baieh. Coffee-cup stand zerf. Cure, v. tiieb (tY-eb). p. ENGLISH AND ARABIC VOCABULARY. Becoming cured itieb. It is cured tab. Curious, won- ageeb, gharidb derful (strange). Curtain setirah. Custom-house diwdn [douane]. Cushion mekhud'deh. Cut, v. ek'ta. Cut with scis- koo's. sors, v. Cut, part. p. muk-to6a, mekutta. Cut out, as fussel. clothes, v. The cutting out e' tufsiel. Dagger - large sekien, khdnger. gembdih, yatagdn, or yatakan (Turk.). Damp, a. tdree. - , s. tarawa, rot6obeh. Dance, v. er'kus. Dandy (v. Beau) Danger kh6f (i. e. fear). He dares not ma isteggeriesh. Let him dare ! If he dares isteg'geree ! Dark ghamuk. Dates bel'lah. Date-tree, palm nakhl. Daughter bint. Day y6m, pl. iydm, nahr. to-day el y6m, e' nalhr dee. every day kool-y6m, kooll-y6'm. in days of old diam e'zeman, zeman. a day's jour- saffer yom min ney from hen'nee. hence from the day min nalhr ma gdyt, (or time) I min y6m in gayt. came in those days (fee or) fil aiam d61. now, in these el-y6m, fee haza el days wakt. Sunday el had, nahr el had. Monday el ethnden. Tuesday e'thelit. Wednesday el e'rba. Thursday el khamees. Friday e' go6ma. Saturday e' sebt (see Morning). Dead, s. mfit, mdi-it, pl. mfetien. Dead, died, a. mat. Deaf at'trush. Deal plank lh - bdadookee (i. e. Venetian). [Egypt.] Divide, v. Divided Do I have nothing to do with it. I cannot do without it Doctor bayit. elk'sum. makso6m. amel (efatil, sow'- wee). ana mileesh ddwa boo. ma astag'nash (as- taknash) an'oo. hakim (lakiem). D Egypt. 49 A great deal ketedr k.ow'ee. Dear ghilee, aziez. Dear, in price ghlilee. My dear ya ;abeebee. to a woman ya hIablebtee, ya aynee, ya ayndy, ya ay6onee, i. e. my eye, my two eyes; ya r6hee, my soul. Death m6t. Debt dayn. Deceitful mukkdr. Deep ghareek, ghowdet. The Deluge e' toofin. Deny, v. in'kir, unk6or. Derived from mooshtilk min. Descend, v. in'zel. Descent nez6ol. The desert el burredh, e'gebdl, (i. e. the moun- tains). Destiny nesdeb. The Devil e' Shaytdn, el Ebldes. Dew nedda. Diamond fuss, almis (Turk.). Dictionary kam6os. Die, v. moot. He is dying bem6ot. He died mat, itwuf'fa. Different beshka, beshkeh. Difficult saab, war, tekiel, kisee. Dig fat, ef'at. Diligence eg'tehid. Dinner ghidda. Directly kawim;-in answer to a call, Iader ! Dirty wus'sukh. Disgust (to sight kur'ruf (gurruf). or taste) I am disgusted ana dlkruf min oo. with it Disposition tubba. Dispute, v. hanuk, it-h1anulk. A great distance mishwir keeber, 50 Dog Dollar (coin) A dome Door Dot Double, v. Dove Ringdove Draw, v. Draw out (as teeth) Drawing Drawers , chest of Dress Dress. v. Drink, v. Drive, v. Dromedarist, courier Dromedary Drop, v. A drop Drown, v. A druggist Dry Dry, v. a. - V. n. Duck, goose Dumb Dust Duty it is my (his) duty Dwell, v. Dye, v. Dye, dyer p. ENGLISH AND ARABIC VOCABULARY. kelb. real-frilnza. koobbeh (al koobbeh, alcoba, alcove). bab (see Gate). nook'teh. et'nee. yemam. kim'ree. sow'er; ik'tub, i. e. write. ek'la (eg'la). tassowder, s6ora, ketabeh. leb6ss. beshtukh'ta (Turk.). libs (lips). el'bes. ish'rob. soolk (soog). haggan. heg'gin. nukked. nookteh. egh'-ruly, ghdrre.y. attar. nd-shef. in'-shef. nesh-ef. wiz. ekh'-rus. trob, trab. wageb. wigeb-aldy. is'koon. es'boogh. sabagh, sabbagh. 1ach k6ol-e-wihed (every one). Eagle aluib, olkb. Ear widn. Early bed'ree, bed'ree. Earth ard. East sherk. Easy stiltil, sahl.eh. Eat, v. kool, �kool. Edge harf. of a sword, had, harf. &c. Egg bayd. Egyptian Mus'ree, belledee, i. e. of the country. Sect. I. Egypt Musr, ard Musr, Misr. Upper Egypt e' Sa'eed. Elbow kdoa. Elephant feel. Nothing else, ma feesh hdgee there is no- ghayroo; lem fde thing else ha shay ghayrha. Emerald zoom6orrud. Empty fargh. Empty, v. fer'regh. The end el akher. The end, its end e' terf, ter'foo, a- kheroo. The enemy el adoo, addoo. English Ingldez, Inkleez. Enough bess, bizeeddeh. It is enough ik'feh, yikfeh, ikef- Enquire, v. istuk'see. [fee. Enter, v. id'khol, khosh. Entering dakhil. Entire koolloo, kimel. Entrails mussarden. Envy ghdereh. Equal to Ikud, ala kud. Equal to each kud-e-bad, zaybaid. other, alike Escape, v. he escaped et'fush, yetfush. tuffush. he has escaped omroo towdel, nef- with his life fed be 6mroo. An estate, rented ard (or belled) elti- property, milk. [zam. possession Europe .Eurdpa, biled (bel- led) el Frang. European kings el koronat el Frang. European people Frang, Afrang. English Ingldes, Inkleds. French Fransees. A Frenchman Fransovee. Germans Nemsoweek. a German Nemsowee. Russians Mosko, Moskowdeh. a Russian Moskow'ee. Italians Italidni. Poland Lekh. Hungary fluggar. Greeks Erooam'. a Greek Rdomee. Spain Beled el An'daloos. Even, level, mesow'wee (mesi- equal wee). Even, also hat'ta. Good evening messekoom bil khayr (see Morning) sal khayr, sid mes- sikoom. Egypt. The evening Every On every side Every one Every where Every moment Evident Evil Exaction Exactly Exactly so Exactly like it For example To excavate Excavation Excellent Your excellency p. ENGLISH AND ARABIC VOCABULARY. el messa, el ashdih. kool. fee kool-e' ndhia. kool-e-waihed, kool- lohom (all). fee kool - e- matrah, fee kool-e-dodneea. kool-e-saa. bein (bain, byin). ridee. balsa. temam, i.e. perfect. bizatoo. zafoo sow'-a, mitloo sow'-a, bizatoo. mus'salen. efilt, fiat. fat, faat. azeim. genlbak, hldretak (your presence), sAdtak (- high- ness), pl. gendb- kopm, hidratkoom, sadetkoom. Except, adv. illa. Exchange bed-del, gheier. Excuse heg'geh, pl. heg'geg oz'r. Excuse me, I ma takhoznsh, e beg pardon afoo. Execute, deca- dya, deia, dei-ya. pitate Expend, v. dela (dei-ya, df-ya). Expense kool'feh. Expenses (of a masr6of. house) Explain, ex- fusser. pound An extraordi- shay Egeeb, ageiib, nary thing shay ghardeb. The eye el ayn, pl. el aidon. Eyeball habbet el ayn. Eyebrow ha-geb, pl. howhgib. Eyelash rimsh. Eyelid kobbet el ayn. One-eyed ivr, ower. The face el wish (el wide). Fadedshrivelled dublin. Faint, v. dookh. A fair price temn hallal, temn menaseb. Very fair, toler- meniseb. , gin. 51 Faith (creed), shahida. testimony of Fall, v. uk.a, yoka. False keddab. His family il biytoo, �1;loo. Fan mirwlhia. Far bay-it. How far from kud-ay min hinnee. this ? A farce, or ab- mis-khera. surdity Farrier beethr. Farther abbad, abad. Fat, a. semien, ghaleet. Fat, s. semn, shahm, dehn. Father ab, ab6o, abee. Fatigue tSab. Fault zemb. It is not my ma'leesh zemb, md'- fault leesh daw'a. Do me the fa- amel mardof, your, kindness amelni el mardof. Favorisca (Ital.) tefod'thel, tefod'del. Fear khif, khdfe. A feast azodmeh. Feather reesh. Feel, v. hassus. Female neti, neteieh, nety, odnseh. Ferry-boat mhddh. Field el ghayt. Fig tin. Fight, v. katel, hireb. A fight ketil, barb, shim- mata. File mub'red. Fill, v. em'la. Find, v. el'kah (elga). Finger suba (sooba). Fore finger e' shdhed. Middle - suba el woostinee. Fourth - bayn el asiba. Little - khansur, khun'ser. It is finished khalhis, khi-les, khul'les, khdlset, . Fire nar. Fire, live coal bus'sa, bus'set-nar, gumr, jum'ra. Fire a gun id'rob (or syeb), ben. dool.ih. The first el ow'-el, el owelkinee. When first I ow'el ma gayt. came At first Fish Fisherman ow'elen. semmuk. s-ad, semmak. D2 able A fairy _. ENGLISH AND ARABIC VOCABULARY. Flag bafrek, bandayy'ra, san'gak. Flat mebuttut. Flax kettin. Flea bergho6t. Flesh lahm. Flint sown. Flour dakeek. Flower zahr, nowah. A fly deban (debbin). Fly-flap menash'eh. Fly, v. teer. Fog shabodr. Fool magno6n. Foot kuddum (gudm). Footstep at'ter (attar). For me-shin, ali-shin. Force ghusb (ghusp) By force, in spite ghusbininoo, ghusb of him aly. Forehead ko6reh. ----, lower gebeen.' part of Foreign barrinee, ghareeb. To speak in a drtun; subst. rotin. foreign language Forget, v. in'sa. I forgot ana nesedt. Do not forget ma tinsash. Forgive me sud, mildsh. Forgive, v. se-mih. Fork shak (shoke), Formerly zemin. Good fortune, bukht, nesdeb, risk. Fountain feskdeh. A fowl fur'-kher, far6og. Fox abool-hossafn, tdleb. Free horr. Frenchman Franzdwee, pl. Fran- zees. Fran'gee is a corruption of Frangais; it is fre- quently used as a term of reproach, but never as free- man. Fresh, new geddet. Fresh (fruit) tar'ree; f. tardeh. Fresh water moie helweh. (sweet) Friend From Fruit Fuel sleb, habdeb, re- fiek, i. e. com- panion. min. fowikee wekded. Full Fur Further Gain (profit) Gallop, v. Game (caccia) Garden Gardener (who irri- gates) Garlic Gate (door) Gather up, v. Gazelle A general Generosity He is generous Gentlemanly man Gently Get up Gift Gilt Gimlet Gold Ginger Gipsy Gird, v. Girl Give, v. Glad To be glad, v. Glass Globe Glove Glue Gnat Go, v. Go, get away, v. Go in, v. Gone Going Going in, p. Going in, s. I am going He is gone I went Go out, V. melin, melian. furweh. db~id. muk'seb. er'mah. sayd. ginnafneh, bostin, pl. ginnein, bus- satein. genayndtee. kh61ee. tom. bab, pl. bibin, or abodb. lim. ghazil, c.ubbee. sdree-dsker (sarasker). kar'rem. dedoo maftodh, i. e. his hand is open. ragel latedf, rigel zeredf. be-shwo'-esh, la mahlak. koom. hadeeh, bak-shdesh, (bakshish) medahab, mutlee be ddhab. bereemeh. dahab, dthihab. genzabeel. ghug'ger. haz'zem, it-haz'zem. bint- id'dee, a'tee. ferhin. dfrah, or effrah. keziss. kdra. shurab (i.e. stocking). gher'reh. namods. rooh. im'shee, foot. id'khool, h5sh'. ralh.. ryeh. da'khel. dokhdol. ana rye. hooa rah. ana roht. [bar'ra. ekh'roog, etla, dtla Sect. I. pg. ENGLISH AND ARABIC VOCABULARY. Do not go out la-tdtla, ma tetlash bar'ra. Goat maf-zeh. She goat an'zeh. Kid giddee. God (our Lord) Allah (e' rob'boona). A god or deity llah, as la illah il' Allah, " there is no deity but God." Good teieb, teb, meldh. Good, excellent madan (i. e. a mine). Good for no- battil, ma es'wash thing hageh. Pretty good, fair mendseb. Goose wiz. Gossip, v. dur'dish. Governor,-ment hikem, hikmeh. The government el'bayldek, el weseih. Gradual, little shwi'ya be shwo'ya. by little A grain hab. - weight kumh. Grand azeem. [nite). Granite haggar aswain (i.e. sye- Grass hashish. Gratis belldsh. Gratitude mi!'refet e' gemedl. A grave todrbeh, pl. todrob. Grease ziffr. Great kebder, pl. koobdr. Greek Rodmee, borrowed from Romanus. Ancient Greek Yoondnee, i.e. Ionian. Grieved (it has) hazdiin (sab Maly). Grind, v. is.han. A mortar mis-han, Ian (hne). Grind (in a ft-han. mill), v. Groom s-is, seils. Grotto ma-ghara. The ground el ard. A guard ghuffier, pl. ghdffara. Guard of a bur'shuk. sword Guard, v. istal'rus. By guess be tekhmedn. A guide khebedree. He is not guilty mi loosh zemb. Gum sumgh. Gun bendookih (being ori- Gunpowder Gust of wind Gypsum ginally brought from Venice by the Arabs), baro6t. baro6t. shurd (pl. shoro6d). gips (gibs). Hair shar. Half noos, noosf. In halves noosafn. Halt, v. wuk'kuf (wugguf). Hammer, axe kadodm. A hand eed, yed. Handful keb'sheh. Handkerchief manddel, mdhrama. Hand, v. now'el. Happen eg'ra, yig'ra, yeseer. Happened gerra, sar. Happy fer-hin, mabso6t. Harbour mer'seh, scdla. Hard gamed, yabes. Hare, rabbit er'neb. Harm dur'rer, dor6ora, zur. rer. To do harm, v. door, iddor. There is no harm ma feesh durrer. (see Never mind) In haste kwam, beliggel. A hat bornaytq (from Ital.). Hatchet bal'ta, kado6m. Hate, v. ek'rah, yek'rah. I have an'dee. Have you? an'dak ? Hawk sukr. Hay drees. He, it ho6a, (she-) hdea. Head ras, demigh. Heal, v. itieb. Heap kom (k6me). Hear, v. es'-ma. Heart kulb. Heat, v. sa'khen, ham'mee. Heat, s. 1.ar, sdkhneah, ham'- moo. Heaven semma. -, paradise gen'neh. Heavy tekiel. Hebrew Hebrdnee, Yahodee. The heel el kib. Height dl-oo, elloo, ertifh. High ground elwdieh. Hell gehen'nem. Herbs ha-shdesh, khddr. Here hennee, hen'i. Here it (he) is a-h6, a-h6 hennee. Come here taal hennee. Hereafter min de'lwAkt, min el- yom, min-oo-rye. Hide, v. khub'bee. Bidden mistakhub'bee. High aalee. Hill k6m, ge'bel (gebbel). Egypt. 53 p. ENGLISH AND ARABIC VOCABULARY. Binder, v. (stop) hhsh. Hire, s. kerree, ar'ruk, 6gera; v. ek'ree. His beta-oo ; betahtoo, fernm. Hoard up, v. howish. Hold, v. im'sek: Hole kherk. Bored, pierced makhrook. Hollow fargh. His home baytoo. At home fil bayt. Honest man ragel mazbo6t. Honey ("white," assal ab'iad, assal e' . or ' of bees"). nahl. Hook (fish) sunnara. Hooks(and eyes) khobshht. Hooka sheesheh, narkileh (Turk.). - snake ly, lei. I hope, or please Inshllah. God Horn horn; pl. kordon. Horse hossin. Horses khayl. Mare farras. Colt mah'r. Horseman khf-4l, fa-res. Hot h4mee, sdkhn. - - weather 1.ar. [kun. House bayt, men'zel, mes'- Hour sad. How kayf. How do you do? kayfak, zaf ak, kayf- el-kayf, t1feben. Human insandih. Humbug, pre- sheklebhn (sheg-le- varicator bin), khab'bis. Humidity rot6obeh, taraweh. -(dew) (neddeh). Hundred mea, maia. Two hundred meettyn. Three hundred to6lte-meda. Hungry gaya'n, jayAn. Hunt, v. seed, istid, it-rood e'skyd. Hunter syad, ghunnis, boar- dee, withi gun. In order that leg'leh ma tekser- you may not shee khatroo. hurt his feel- ings, or dis- appoint him Husbandman fel-lIah ; pl. fellalhien. Husband g6z, zhge. Hyena dob'h, dobbh. x Jackal Jar Javelin Ice Identical Idle Idol Jealousy Jerusalem Jessamine In jest Jew Ancient Jews If Ignorant, novice Ill, a. Illness I imagine, v. It is impossible In, within Incense Income Indeed Indigo Infidel Ingratitude Ink Inkstand Inquire, v. Inside , S. Insolence (of language) For instance Instead Instrument tools Interpret, v. Interpreter Intestines Intoxicated Intrigue, plot Intriguer Joke Journey Joy Ana. tileb. jar'ra, kiddreh. har'beh, khisht. telg. bizatoo. tum'bal, battal. s6ora, mas-khdota, sun'num (su'nm). ghedreh. el Kotts, el Kods, "the Holy" (Ca- dytis). yesmden. bil dehek; see Joke. Yahdodee. Bdni Izradel. in-kdn, izakin, fzza, lo-kan, mut'tama. gha-shdem. meshow'esh, aian, ai-yin, daeif. tashowdesh. tekhmdenee, aua azoon. ma yoomkin'sh, la yodmkin dbeden. goda; at, fee. bokhar. erhd. hatta. ndeleh. kifer, pl. koofir, ka- ferden. khussddh, khussiseh. heb'r, hebber. dowti, dowdieh. sail, es'saal. g6oa, fee kulb. el kulb. toolt e' lissin, kootr el kalim. mus'salen. bedl. doolab, i. e. machine. ed'deh. ter'gem (translate). tergimin, toorgimin. mussarden. sakran. fit'neh, khibs. fettin, khabbis. layb, mis-khera, day- hek, mdzh. saffer. ferrah. 54 Sect. I. p. ENGLISH AND ARABIC VOCABULARY. Joyful fer'han, mabs6ot. Iron haddet. Irrigate, v. is'kee. Is there? there is fee. There is not ma feish. Island gezereh. Judge 1 idee. Its juice m6ietoo. Just hakeek, sedeelk. Just now tow, totu. Reep, take care istal'rus, alh'fod, ah'- of fuz. Keep, hold, v. im'sek, h6sh (stop). Kettle buk'rag. Key muftilh. Kick, v. er'fus. Kidney kaflweh, kilweh. Kill, v. mow'et, mow'wet. Killed mat, 'mfit. Kind, s. gens. Kind, a. sdhab mar6of, hindiin. Kindle, v. keed (geed). King milek (mellek), s51tin. Kingdom mem'lekeh. Kiss bos'sa. Kitchen mud'bakh. Kite, niluus hedy (hedif). Knee rook'beh. Knave ebn harim. Knife sekden; pl. sekakien. Penknife mitweh. Knot k'deh. Know, v. aref. I do not know ma arifshee, ma mdish kh~ibber. Knowledge mayrefeh, mayrefeh. L.abour tSib. Ladder sil'lem. Lady sit, sit'teh (mistress). Lake, pond, pool beer'keh. Lame a'rug. Lamp kanddel, mus'rag. Lance hd.beh. Land ard, bur (opp. to sea). Lantern fan6os. Large kebder, arded, wisa. Lark koomba. The last el a-kher, el akhrdnee. Last, v. 'kut ketier, istsihmel. It is late el wakt raih. Laugh, v. it'-hak. Laughter ddhek. Law, justice shirrk. Lay, v. er'koot. Lay, v. a. rull.et. Lazy tum'bal. Lead, s. rossiss. Leaf (of book) wiraleh, war'rak. Leap, v. noot (nut). Learn, v. itadlem, alem. 4ease (ofahouse) o'gera, kerree. Leather gild matbodk (mat- bo6g), " tanned skin." Leather,common gild horr. - morocco sakhtiin. Russia thelatednee. Leave, s. ez'n, egtizeh. Without leave min ghayr egizeh. Leave, v. khal'lee, foot. Leaven khummier. Ledge soffa. Leech aluk. Leek klrat. Left, a. shemdl, yesdr. Leg rigl. Lemon laymoon, laymoon malh. - (European laymoon Addlia. kind) Lend, v. iddee-sellef, dslif. Length tool. Lengthen, v. n. it'wel. - , v. a. tow'el, towwel. Lentils atz, ads, addus. Leopard nimr. Less as'gher, al]ill. Let go, or sf-eb, khallee. alone, v. Letter harf, pl. hardof. -, epistle makt6ob, gow'ab, warrakeh. Level mesow'wee. Level, v. sow'wee. Liar kedddib. Lie kidb. Liberate, *en- dtuk. franchise, v. Liberated matdok. Life om'r, hfa. Lift, v. sheel, er'fa, ayn. Light, a. khafief. colour maft6oh. Light, s. noor. Light the candle willa e' shem'mi. Give light to, v. now'er, nowwer. Lightning berk. As you like ala kaffak, ala me- zagak, ala kir- radak. Egypt. 55 P. ENGLISH AND ARABIC VOCABULARY. Like, a. zay, mittel, mitl, kayf. Mallet In like manner gazilik el omr, ga- Man thdlik. Mankind I like (it pleases yagdbnee. me) Manufactory I should like fee khitree, biddee. Many Lime geer. Marble Lime (fruit) laymo6n hilw (hel'oo): Mark, v. Line, or mark khot, suttr (of a - , s. book). Market Linen-cloth komish kettan. Marrow Linseed bizr kettan. Marry, v. Lion as'sad, saba. Mast Lip shiffeh. Master Listen, v. sen'ned. Mat, s. Listen, hear es'mi. Listen to, take tow'wa. What's the advice matter ? Little, small sogheer, zwyer. - with you ? Little, not much shwaya. Matters Live, v. iidsh, esh. - , things Liver kib'deh. Mattrass Lizard boorse, sahldehl. Measure Load hem'leh. - of length Load, v. ham'mel. Meat Loaf of bread rakeef esh. Meet, v. Lock kayl6on. Medicine - wooden dob'beh. Memory Padlock kufl. Merchant Lock, v. e.-fel. Lofty �lee. Mercury Long towdel. Messenger Look, v. shoof, boss, dndoor. Metals, mine Loose, a. waisa. Middle Loosen, v. sf-eb, hell (see Undo). Middle-sized At liberty mesfeb, me-sdieb. Mighty, able Lose, v. d-al?, defah. Milk Love hob. Love, v. heb. A mill Low witee. Press mill Lupins tirmes, tur'mis (Copt.). Minaret Never mind -Machine dool ib. A mine Mad magnodn. Mine, of me Madam sittee. Minute, s. Magazine hsel, shb6n, sh6ona, mdkhzen. Mirror, s. Maggot doot. Mix, v. Magic safher (sayhr). Mixed Male dthuikker. Modest Female netf-eh, netf, oon'- Moist seh. Monastery Make, v. aimel. Money Made mam6ol. Monkey dokmak. rigel; pl. regal. insdn, beni ddam (sons of Adam). wer'sheh. keteer. ro-khim. alem. alam (see Line). sook, bazdr. m6kh. gow'-es, zow'-eg. scree. sid, seed. hassiereh (hassiera); pl. hossor. khabbar - ay, gerra ay. milak. om6or. asheeat. mar'taba. meezan. keeds. lahm. kabel. dow'-a, dow'eh. fikr, bal. tiger, hawagee,* mesibbub. zafybuk. sfee, sal. midan. woost (Eng. waist). woostinee. 1.kder. lub'ben (lub'bun), haldeb. tah6on. mi'sarah. madneh. See Never and Harm. madan; pl. matidin. betiee; f. betahtee. dak6ekeh; pl. da- kfy-ik, dagaiik. mirdk, mordi. ekh'let. makhldot. mestafihee. tiree (see Humidity). dayr. floos (from obolus ?). nesnds. * Hawagee, a Christian; Khowagee, a Moslem. 56 Sect. I. Egyptt p. ENGLISH AND A Monk rdhib ; pl. robbn. Month shahr; pl. shalh6or, esh-hoor. Names of the Arabic Months. 1. Moharrem. 8. Shibdn. 2. Saffer. 9. Ramadin. 3. RebeSh 'l-dwel. 10. Showal. 4. Rebeih '1-a- 11. El Kideh, or kher. Zul-kldeh. 5. Go6mad-owel 12. El IH'g-h, 6. Go6mad-akher or Zul-Heg 7. Reg'eb. (Hag). Moon kumr (masc.). Moral, a. mazbo6t. Morning soobh, sabQl. Dawn feg'r (fegger). Sunrise tilat e'shems. Forenoon da-h.;ah. Midday dahr. Afternoon dsser. Sunset muighreb. 11 hour after esh'a, ash'a. sunset Evening messa, asheeh. Good morning sabdl khayr, sabf- koom bel-khayr. Morrow bo6kra, baker. the day after bad bodkra. A mortar hone, h6n, mis-han. Mosk gamah, misged (from seged, "to bow down "). At most, at the nahaitoo. utmost Moth(ofclothes) kitteh. Mother om. ----- of pearl sudduf. My (his)mother ommee (ommoo). Move, v. n. , haz. ----, v. a. Iow'wum. Mountain geb'el (gebbel), pl. gebIl. Mount, ascend, v. et'la foke (fok). ----, ride, v. drkub. Mouth fom, hannak (han'ak). Much ketedr (see Quantity, and What). Mud teen, walh-1, wahal. Mug kooz. Musk misk. Musquito nam6os. - net namooseeh. You must lizem. Mustard khar'del. RA3IC VOCABULARY, Mutton lahm dinee. My betaee ; betthtee, fern., as, farras be- tihtee, my mare. My son ebnee. Nail mesmir. Nail, v. sum'mer. Naked aridn. Name esm. Napkin mah'rama, vulgarly fodta. Narrow dfik, dthdiik. Nature, the el khilulk. Creator Near karf-ib (garei-ib). Neat, elegant zerdef. It is necessary lizem, elzem. Neck ruli'abeh (rdktkabeh). Needle eb'ree, pl. O'bar. ----- packing mesilleh, mafber. Negro abd (" slave"), ragel as wed. Neigh (whinny) v. hen' (hinnire, Lat.). Neighbours geerin, sing. gar. Neither (one wulla wahed wulla nor the other) e'tinee. Net shibbekeh. Never eb'eden, ebbeden. Never mind, v. malish, ma ann6osh. New gedeet, gedded. News, to tell, khabber (khabbar). Next e'tinee (ettinee), alagemboo (at its side). Nick-name nulkb, la.b. Night layl, pl. layil. Nitre sub'bukh. - refined bar6ot abiad. No, nor la, wulla. Noble, prince emier, ameer, pl. 6mara. North shemal, bahree. Nose monokhier, unf. Not moosh. Not so moosh kiddee, miosh kiza. Nothing, none ma feesh higeh. For nothing belish. Now; de'lw lt [see Day]. A great number keteer kowee. Number, v. dalhseb, edd. The Numbers. El Eddud. 1, wdabed. 3, thelata. 2, ethneen. 4, er'ba. D 57 p. ENGLISH AND ARABIC VOCABULARY. 5, khamsa. 14, erbAtdsher. 6, sitteh, sitt; 15, khamstisher. 7, siba. 16, sittisher. 8, theminieh. 17, sabatisher. 9, tesh (tes'sa). 18, themantisher.' 10, asherah. 19, tesatisher. 11, hedasher. 20, asherien. 12, ethndsher, 21, wAhed oo ishe- 13, thelatisher. rden, etc. 30, thelateen. 100, mdea (see Hun- 40, erbaien. dred). 50, khams en. 101,meeaoo wahed. 60, sittien. 120 meea oo ashe- 70, sabi~den. rden. 80, themaien. 1000, elf. 90, tesaeen. 1100, elf oo meea. Nurse dada (Turk.), mor- d'ah. Nut ben'dook. Oar mukdif, pl. maka- dief. Oath helfin, yameen. The ocean el bihr el milh., el maleh. The Mediterra- el bahr el ab'iad, i.e. nean the white sea. An odd one ferd, furd. A pair and an g6z oo ferd. odd one. Do not be of- ma takhodshee ala fended (hurt) khatrak. Often, many keteer n6ba, kam times ni'ba! (i. e. how many times!) Oil of olives zayt-zaytdon. Sweet oil zayt-tf-eb,* zayt- hlwa. Lamp oil sderig t Train oil zayt-hair.$ Lettuce oil zayt-khiss. Old, ancient kaddem, min zemin. Old in age ag6os. On, upon f6k. One wahed; see Numbers. The very one bizatoo. Once n6ba wahed, marra Onion bus'sal. [wahed. Open, v. ef taih. Open, p. p. maft6oh. Opening Or Orange Order, com- mand, v. Order, s. Set in order, v. In order that Origin Ostrich The other Another Oven Over Overplus Over and above Overturn, v. Overturned Overtake, v. Our Out Outside Owl Owner Oxen Padlock Pail Pain Paint, s. Paint, dye, v. A pair Pale Palm, date tree Pane (of glass) Paper A para (coin) Parsley Part, piece Partridge Partner Party Pass, v. n. Paste Patch, s. fit-hah, applied also to the 1st chapter of the Koran. wulla, ya, ow; e. g. either this or none, ya dde ya beldsh. portokan. aom6or, om6or. am'r. woddub. leg'leh. as'sel, assl. nam. e'tinee, el a-kher. wahed akher, wahed ghayr, wahed ta- nee, ghtyroo. foorn. fbke (fake). zeeddeh. zyid. egh'leb. maghl6ob. el'hak. betina, beta-ndhna. bdrra. min barra. mussdsa; (horned -) bdoma. sahab. teerdn; see Bull. kufl. sutl, dilweh. wgh'ga. bo6ia. es'boogh, low'wen. gOz, ethnden. ab'iad, as'fer. nakhl, ndkh-el. 161h-kezds. war'ak. ; (leaf of) warrakeh, ferkh. fodda, i. e. silver. bakddonis. hretteh. lh ag'gel. sherdek. gem'ma. foot; v. a. fow'wet. asdedeh, ageen. ralka, riga. * From the kortum, or Carthamus tinctorius. f From the simsim, or Sesamum Orientale. + From the flax. 58' Sect. I. p3. ENGLISH AND ARABIO VOCABULARY. Patience t6ol-t-el-bil, sabbr. Patient s&ber. Be patient towlel balak, isboor. He is patient rohoo towdel. Pay money, v. ed'fa floos. Peace, pardon amin. ----- cessation soolh. of war We have made istullah'na bad, or peace with -weed bad. each other. Pear koomittree. -, prickly, tin sh6k, tin serafin- or Cactus. dee. Peas bisilleh. Peasant felllah. Peel gild, kishr. Peri klam (kullum). Lead pencil kiglam, rosass. People nas, gem'ma, regal. Our people gemma-etna. Perfect temam. - entire sahdh, kimel. Perfidy khyana. Perhaps yodmkin, apsar (db- sar). Persia 4gem. Persian agemee, Farsee. Person, self nefs. A piastre (coin) kirsh, plur. kroosh, Pickaxe; see Axe. Pickles toorshee. Picture s6ora, tassowder. A piece 1het'teh, k ttah. Piece, v. fuss'el. Pig khanzier. Pigeon hamim. Pilgrim hag, hag'gee. Pill hab. Pin dabdos. Pinch, v. ek'roos, egrus. Pinch, s. goorse, koors. Pinchbeck (me- tombdk (Fr.). tal) Pipe sh6book. ood. Pipe, mouth- fom, mub'sem (mup'- piece sem), terkiebeh. . Pistol taban'gia. A pair of pistols goz tabangiat. A single pistol ferd. A pit beer. What a pity! ya khsira. A place mat'rah, mdda, ma- k~in, mahil. The plague el k6obbeh, e'td6on. Plank, pane (of ldh. glass) Plate shan, tub'bul gar. Play, s. leb (layb). Play, v. illb. Plot fit'neh. Plough mahrat. Ploughing hart. Pluck a fowl, v. enltif el ffir-kh Pluck, pull out, en'tish. V. Plunder, v. inhab, na-hab ( Plural gemma. Pocket gayb. Poetry shbyr, nusm. Poison sim. Point, end turf. Pole, stick middree, neb6 Pomegranate rooman. A poor man meskien, feke Potatoes kolkads frdngee. Pottery fokhdr. A pound rotl. Pour out, v. soob, koob. --- throw koob. away, v. Powder trob; (gun--) Power kidr (kudr). Pray sellee, sullee. I pray you fee ard'ak.* Prescribe, v. wussuf. Press, v. dooss. - , squeeze, v. aaser (aser). Pretty kouei'is (quiy Prevaricator sheklebin. Price (see What, tem'n (temmen and Worth) Agree about uf'sel, fussil. price of Pride kobr e' n6fs, Prison habs, hisel: It is probable ghileben. Produce of the khyrat el ard. land Profit (v. gain) Property, pos- milk. sessions Prophet nebbee. Prose nuthr, nusr. Prosper, v. flah. Provisions zowdd, dkul oo Pull, v. shid. k, han- Ler. to nab). ot. er. bar6ot is). ), sayr, sherb, * " On your honour." Used to deprecate punishment, and on other pressing occasions, Egypt. 59 p. ENGLISH AND ARABIC VOCABULARY. Pull out, v.; pull el.'li ; eg'la ; see off (clothes) Pluck. Punishment azab. Pure taiher. On purpose bilinieh; (in a bad sense) bilamed. Push, v. liz. Puss ! puss ! biss ! biss ! Put, v. hot. Put away, hide. v. diss. Put away, part. madso6s. Putrify, v. affen. Pyramid hairam, ihram. A quail What quantity? Quarrel, v. Stone quarry A quarter Quench (fire), v. Quince Quickly Quiet Race Raft Rag Rage Rain It rains Raise, v. Raised Ramrod Rank Rare, strange A rascal Rat Raw Razor Reach, z. Read, v. Ready Real Really, truly The reason Rebellious Receive money Reckon, v. Recollect, v. (-ion) A reed A relation Relate, tell, v. Remember, v. sooman [much. k.ud-ddy, i. e. how hinak, amel kalim. muk'ta-hag'gar. roob. itfee. safer'gel, kawim, belaiggel (i. e. on wheels), ydlla. siket. gens (gense). ramodse (ramo's). sharm6ota, khaillaka. zemk, kudb. mattar, nuttur. be-un'tur. drfa, sheel, ayn. merf6o. harbee, kabbais. makdm. ghareeb. ebn haraim. far. ny (nye). moos. tool, ilhak. ek'ra. h~ider. sahh, saiduk. min hak, haikdeketen, hak'ka. e' sebbub. aasee, pl Asii'n. el.'bud floos. ah'seb. iftek'r. (fikr). boos. Iardeb, Ahl. ah'kee. khallee fee balak. I remember, v. fee bilee. Remove it from un'guloo min hinnee. hence It is removed itnug'gel min mitrah from place to ala mitrah. place Reply, v. rood (roodd). Reply, s. gawab. Reside, v. is'koon. Return, v. er'ga. -, give back,v. reg'ga. Rhinoceros horn korn kharteet. Ribs dull6oa. Rich shebin, ghuinnee. Riches ghunna (ghena). Rid, v. khal'lus. Ride, v. er'kub. Riding, s. roko6b. [khineh, A rifle bendookdih shesh- Right, a. doghrec. Right, s. halk (el hak). Right (hand) yemeen. Rim harf, soor. Ring (annulus) hallalkah, hallak. Finger ring dib'leh; see Seal. Rinse, v. mdfsmus. Rinse it out mismusoo. Rise, v. koom (goom) River nahar; bahr, i. e. ocean (applied to the Nile). Road derb, sfkkah, taredk. Roast meat kebab. Robber haramee. It rocks ber6ok. It rolls (as a itmirga. boat) Roof sukf. A room oda. Root gidr, gidder. Rope habbel, habl. Hemp rope habl teel. Palm - habl leef. Rose werd. Rose water moie-werd. ---- otto of hetter el werd. Round, a. medow'-er, mekib- bub. Around howalayn, deir ma id6or. Rouse, v. low'em, kowwem. Royal soltainee. Rudder duf'feh. Ruins, remains; bendi kadedm, kha- see Temple. ry-ib, kharabeh. Run, v. ig'geree. 6( Sect. I. p. ENGLISH AND ARABIC VOCABULARY. Run, as a liquid khdr. Rushes soomir (sumar). Russia leather gild thelatednee. Rust suddeh. A Sack sekee'beh. Saddle (of horse) serg. - (donkey) bdrda. --- (dromedary)ghabdet. - (camel) witter, howddh, sha- ker, basdor. - bags khirg. Sail, s. killa, k6mish, i. e. cloth. Sailor marakebee. Sailor (of a boat) ndotee, tffa. For his sake leg'leli khtitroo. Salad sdlata. for Sale lel-biys. Salt, a. mileh. Salt, s. mellh. Salts mellh Ingldez. The same bur'doo, bizttoo, pl. burdoh6m. Sand ruml. Sandal nIl. Sandstone higar hettn. Sash, girdle hezim. Saucer tdsa. A saw minshir. I saw, v. ana sh6oft; he saw, hooa shif. Say, v. kool. What do you betk6ol ay. say ? Scabbard (of bayt (e'sayf). sword) Scales (large -) meezin, (l.kubbineh). School muk'tub. Scissors mekfdss. Scold, v. hinuk, it-hinuk. Scorpion ak.-raba (ag'raba). Scribe kiteb. Sea bahr, balhr el mall, el mdlelh.. See, v. shoof; Isee, ana sheif (shyfe), besh6of. A seal . khitam (worn as a ring). - impression khitmeh. Search, v. fettesh. Search teftedsh. Four Seasons. Winter shittah. Spring kharedf. Summer sayf. Autumn demeereh. A second of time zinee. The second, the e'tinee. other Secondly Seed Seek for Send, v. Separate from the Servant tinien. bizr, hab, tekow'ee, ghilleh. dow'r a1y. dbaat, shiy, drsel. one fur'red. other Serve, v. Shade, s. Shadow Shame, disgrace Shave, v. Sheep, pl. Ram Ewe Sheet, s. Shell Shield Shine, v. Ship Shirt, s. Shoe Horseshoe Yellow slipper Shop Short Small shot Shoulder Show, v. Show me Shut, v. Shut the door Shut, bolt the door Shut, p.p. Sick (see ill) Sick, to be khudddm, subbee (lad). ikh'-dem. dooll, dool, dill, zill. khedal. eb, deb. t-luk. ghunnum. khar6of. nageh. foota, malya (malaia). wodda. dar'raka. ibrook. mdrkeb * kamdes. pl. komsin. merk6ob, pl. mara- kdeb. nal. must, mez. doktin, pl. dekakin (see Trader). k.c5seir (kossy-er). rush. kitf. wer'ree. werednee. uk'-fel. rood -, itrush -, Ak.fel el bab. sook el bab. merd6od, matr6osh, maskdok, makfool. meshow'ish, aidn. istuf'rugh. * The camel is sometimes called mdrkeb (as a shoe is merk6ob), not because it is the ' Ship of the Desert," as some have supposed, but because merkeb signifies something to mount upon (Fr. monture), so that the ship is rather the camel of the sea than the converse, and the Arabs had camels or montures before they had ships or shoes. Egypt. 61 p. ENGLISH AND ARABIC VOCABULARY. Side gemb. Sieve ghhrbil. Silk harder. Sight, s. shoof, nudr. Silent, a. sikut. Be silent, v. 6s'-kut (6s'koot).-- Silver fod'da. Simple mokhtus'surah. Single mooffrud, ferd. Sing, v. ghun'nee. The singular mooffrud. Sir ! seedee ! sidi'! Sister okht. My sister okhtee. His sister okhtoo. Sit, v. 5'-kut.- Size khbr. Skin, s. gild. Water skin kedrbeh. Sky, heaven semma. Slave abd, khidem. Female garreea (jdreea). Slaughter, s. Ietil. Sleep, s. n6m, v. nhm.- Put to sleep, v. nfem. Sleeping neim (nfim). Slowly be-shwh'-esh. Small, see Little sogheer. Smell, v. shem. Smell, s. shem, reeh. Sweet smell rebh (reht) helwa. Blacksmith haddit. Smoke, s. d-khan. Smoke, v. ish'rob do-khan. Smooth, v. ef'red; adj. nam. Snail halazh'n (halazhnc). Snake tibin, han'nesh, dood Horned hei bil-kordon. Asp na'sher. Snare fukh. Snuff nesh6'k (nesh6ke). Snuffers malkiss (mekiss) - e'shem'ma. So keddee, kdza. Soldier as-karee, pl. asiker, asker. Disciplined nizim. Some of it minoo, minnoo. Something hageh, shay. Some few things bAd shay. Sometimes wtihed-wahed-n6ba, bad-kt. Son ebn, welled. Song gh6'na. Sorry haz8dn (sdbin). I am sorry, v. isaab'alay,... Sort, s. Sound, voice Sour, acid South - wind Sow (seed), v. - (cloth), v Span Span with fore finger Speak to on about, bespea Speak, see Talk Spear Spend (money Spider web Spill, v. Spirit A. spirit gens, shikl. hess. ha-duk, hti-mood. gendob, kub'lee (kib- lee). now. ez'ra. . khf-et. shibr. - fitr. e wessee (wussee). k . hirbeh. df-a, esref. ankab6ot. ankabdot. koob (kubb). roh. afriet, pl. afareet, ginnee, pl. gin. A good spirit, see Angel. Split, p. p. maflo6k, mushrdom. It gets spoilt itlif. It is quite spoilt tel'lef, rah khosdra. Spoon mlaka. Sportsman sy-id. Square marub'bah, mirub'bi. Stable, s. stabl. Stand up 1.6om ala haflak. Stand, v. } yo6kuf, wukkuf. Stop Star nigm; pl. nigo6m. Statue mas-khdot. Stay, wait, v. us'boor. Steal, v. esrook, es'ruk [to sherk]. Stealth, s. sedrkah. By stealth bil-duiss. Steel soolb. A steel (for flint) zeenid. Stick neb6ot; assaia (as- sfeh), shamro6kh. Stick of palm gereet. Stick, v. ilzuk. Sticking lizek. It has stuck lez'zek. Stuck, p. p. malz6ok. Still sakut. - yet lissa. Sting sh6k. He is stingy eddoo misek. Stirrup rekab. Stone hggar. Stop, see Stand and Wait. Stop up, v. sid. Sect. I. 62 p. ENGLISH AND ARABIC VOCABULARY. Stopped, closed masddod. Straight doghree. Strihg dooblra. Strong shedeet, gow'ee. Straw tibn. Street derb, sikkeh. Stumble, v. dhter. He struck dirreb (see Beat). Strike a light ek'da (egda). Style kesm, tertieb, shikl. Begin the sub- iftah seeratoo, iftah ject e'seera. Such a one foolin (felin). Suck, v. mooss. Sugar sook'ker. Sun shems (fern.). The sun has set e'shems ghibet. Sulphur kabriet. Summer sdyf. Support, v. es'ned. He supported sei'ned. Supported, p. p. masnodd. Suppose, v. zoon' (zoonn), khum'- men. Swell, v. ydorem. Swollen warm. Swear, testify, v. ish'tiad, dhlif. -at, abuse, v. ish'tem. Swallow, v. eb'la. Sweet hel'wa. Swim, v. aom. Sword sayf. Syria e'Sham. System tertieb, nizdm. Table-cloth fodta e'so'ffra. Table soffra. , Turkish kodrsee. Tack (in sailing) id'rob bdlta. Tail dayl. Tailor khydt, tdrzee. Take, v. khod. Take away, v. sheel. Take in, cheat ghush, gbush'em. Talk, v. itkel'lem, it-had'det. Tall towee1 (towweel). Tamarinds tdmr hindee. Tamarisk tur'fa. Tan, v. ed'bogh. Tax feerdeh (fir'deh), meeree. Tea shy. Teach, V. alem. Tear, v. ishrut, sher'mut. A tear dim'moo. Telegraph e-shira. Telescope nadtra. Tell, v. kool, dh-kee. Temple bderbeh. Tent khaym, khdymeh. Tent peg wat'tat. Than min, an. We thank you nish'koor el f6dl. (for a present) - (for inquiry) allah ibirak fiek. - (for a great ket'-ther-(getther-) favour), I am khdyrak. much obliged to you! (also ironically) Thank God el ham'doo lillih. Then somma, baden. There henik. They, their hoom, beta'-hoom. Thick te-khien. Thief (see Robber and Steal). Thigh fukhd, werk. Thin roofyf (roofeia), re- fied. Thing higeh, shay. Things asheedt. , matters omo6r. Think, v. iftekker, khum'men. I think, suppose ana az6on, tekhmee- nee. Third thlet. This dee, hza (htha). That dedka, dikkii, da. Those dole (d61). Thirst at'tush. Thirsty at-sha'n. Thorn shake (sh6k). Thought fikr. Thread, s. khayt. A thread fet'leh, fet'leh khayt. Threshold at'taba. Thrive, v. ef'la. Throw, v. drmee. Thumb suba el kebeer. Thunder rad. Tickle, v. zukzuk (zugzug). Tie, v. er'boot. Tight, drawn mashddot. Time, narrow df-ik (ddi-uk), maz- ndok. Time, volta noba. - , tempo wakt. Tin kazdedr (KmaooreTpor). Tin plate safeih. Tin, v, whiten bdiad, bad. Tinder soofin. Tired batla'n. Egypt. 63 64 To Toast (bread) Tobacco Together To-morrow Tongs Tooth Top Torch Torn A torn rag Tortoise Torture -, V. Touch, feel, v. Do not touch that (put not your hand on it): Tow Tow (a boat) Towel, napkin Tower - fort Town Large town Trade Trader Traveller -- European Treachery Treacherous (see Betray and Perfidy). p. ENGLISH AND ARABIC VOBABULARY. illa, ela. esh mekum'mer. do-khan, i. e. smoke. sow'a-sow'a, wea- bad. bo6kra. ma-sheh. sin, pl. sinnin, si- no6n. ghutta (cover). mash'al. mesher'met. sharmo6ta. sah'lifeh. azdb. azeb, addab. has'sus. la teh6t yed'ak clay, ma teh6t-shi eddak ala dde. meshdk. goor e' lebin. fo6ta, mahrama. boorg. kla. bel'led (bel'ed), pl. belid. bender. sebbub. tdger, mesebbub. mesaffer, pl. -in. sowAh, pl. -in. khiana, kheeana. khein, khfin. Tree seg'gereh, sheg'- gereh. Trickery, ma- doolib, doobara, chination hayleh. Trouble taab. Trousers sharwil, lebitss (drawers). - of women shintian. True sdheh, dS'ghree, si- duk., saheTh. Try, prove, v. kur'reb. Tub mustela. Turban shall, em'meh. Turk Toork, Ozminlee, Osmanli. Turn, v. dower. Turquoise faroo'see. Twice marratafn, nobatafn. Twist, v. ib'room. Tyrant Tyrannical Tyranny Sect. I. za'lem. zoolm. Valley widee (widy). Value, price temn (tdmmun). Vapour bi-khdr. Vase tasa. Vegetables kh6dr. Very kow'ee; very large, kebder kow'ee. Ugly wahesh, bil-him. Violent kow'wee (kow'ee). Violet benef'sig. Virgin bikr. Umbrella shenmsdh. - Undo, untie, v. fook', hell. Uncle am. Uncle (mother's khal. brother) Until illa, le, illama, l6ma. Under takht. [leme< Vocabulary sillemee, ketab si Voyage saffer. Up, upon, over foke (f6k). Upper fokinee. Use, utility ndffa. It is useful infa. - of no use ma infish. Used, worn, mestah.'mel. secondhand Usury ribh. Vulture nisser, nisr. - pernopterus rakh-am (rikhum). Wafer bershdm. Wager -rtdhaneh. Wages gemkdeh. Waist woost, i. e. middle. Wait, stop, v. us'boor. - for me istennanee. - for him isten'noo. Wake, v. a. andn. es'-hur (es'-her). Walk, v. im'shee. Walking ma-shee. Wall, hayt. - (round a soor. town) Walls haytan. Walnut gaz. I want, v. ana o'es (owz), a What do you want ? 1- na arded, ana atlub (tileb), matl6obee. ow'es-ay, owz-ay; by the Arabs, Esh terded. p. ENGLISH AND ARABIC VOCABULARY. I want ow'es, ow'z, lzemlee, areed. I want nothing moosh ow'es hageh. War harb, shemmata. Warm sakhn. Lukewarm ddfee. Warn, v. wu'ssee. I warned you ana wusayt-ak. I was koont, ana koont. He, it, was kan. She was kan'net. We were koon'na. You were ko6ntum, kodntoo. They were kinoo. Wash, v. ugh'sel. Waste, s. kh5sira. A watch saa. -Water, s. mo'ie, ma, mo'ieh.- Water, v. is'lkee. - sprinkle roosh, rush. Freshbater mdie hel'wa. Spring (of water) ain, ayn (eye), ed. Water, torrentof sayl. (in the desert) - basin of khdraza, mesek. (in a rock) - small basin mesayk. of basin or thembeleh. natural reser- voir, when filled up with sand or gravel --- well of beer. - reservoir h6d. (built) - pool of rain magdra (makgra). water - river, or nalhr. stream - channel, or mig'gree. conduit Water melon batiekh. Wax candles shemma skanderinee. Way sikkah, derb. We ah'na, nalh'na. Weak batlhin, da-edf. One week go6ma wahed. Weigh, v. yo6zen. Weight tl, wezzen. A well beer. Well, good tyeb (v. good). Wet mablo61. Wet, v. bil. What ay, esh. What do you say? betko6l-ay, telkool-ay? What's the mat- khabbar-ay, gira-ay ter ? el khabbar-ay ? What's the price be-kam dee ? of this ? What is this eswa-ay dee? worth ? What are you betimel-gy; by the doing ? Arabs, esh te- sow'wee ? What o'clock is e' sa'a fee kdm ? it ? Wheat kum'h. A wheel aggeleh. When lima (lemma), mOnte. At the time that � akt ma. Where ? fayn (by the Arabs, owwdyn) ? Where are you ente rye fayn ? going ? Where did you ente gayt min ayn ? come from? Which? an'h6o ? That which el-azee, glee (ellee). Whip of hippo- korbig. potamus hide White ab'iad, fem. bayda. Whiten, v. bfed. Whitening tabesheer. Why? lay? lesh ? Who min. Who is that ? da min? Who said so? min kal (gal) kiddee ? Whose beta min. The whole el kool, kool'loo. Wicked haram. - rascal ebn haram. Widow az'beh, er'meleh. Widower azeb, er'mel. Wife marra, zug, harmah. Wild animal wdhsh (wdhesh). I will, v. ana ow'es (aw's). Wind, s. relh., how'a. North wind e'ty-ab, teidb. Window shu-bak. Wine nebeet, shardb. Wing ge-ndh. Winter shitta. Wipe, v. em'salh. Wire silk. Wish tool'beh. Wish, v. et'loob. I wish, v. bid'dbe, fee khitree, arded. I had wished era t, kan fee khd- tree. With ma, wde-a. Egypt. 65 p. ENGLISH AND ARABIC VOCABULARY. Within go6a. Witness shahed. Wolf deeb (deep). Woman marra, nissa, hrmah. 0 woman (call- ya haggeh, ya hagh ing to a poor (Cp. old hag.) woman, re- spectfully) Women nis-wAn,hardem. I wonder at ana astdgeb. I wonder if, i. e. ya tdrra, hal toora. wish to know Wonderful agdeb. Wood khesh'-ob, (khishub). Firewood hattob. Wool soof. Word kilmeh, kalam. Work, s. shoghl. Work, v. ishtoghl, faal. World dodneea. Worm dood. Worth, it is dswa. Wound, s. gdrah (gerrah). Wounded Write, v. Wrote Writing Written magrooh. ik'tub; writer, kateb. ket'teb. ketdbeh. maktodb. A yard, court h6sh. Year senna (senneh). Yesterday emba'ra (by the Arabs, ums, or urhse). The day before owel embdra (by the yesterday Arabs, owel ums). Yes iwa, eiwa, nam. - Not yet lissa. Yield to my opinion tawnee. You en'te; entee, fern.; dntoom, pl. Young soghdier; vulgo zwdir. Young man sheb, gedda. Your betak; betihtak, f. Youth shebib, sheboobdh. Boats of the Nile-Cangia and Dahab&Bh.-On the opposite bank is a whirlwind of sand. 66 Sect. I. ROUTE 1.--LONDON TO ALEXANDRIA. View in the Delta during the Inundation of the Nile. ROUTES. ROUTE 1. LONDON TO ALEXANDRIA. In going from England to Alexan- dria, the quickest way is by sea to Gibraltar and Malta, or through France to Marseilles, and thence by the steamer to Egypt. (See Introduc- tion, on the Voyage to Alexandria.) ALEXANDRIA.- 1. Arrival at Alexandria. Pompey's Pillar is in Jatitude 310 10' 45" N. and longitude 290 54' E. from Greenwich. The coast is ex- ceedingly low, so that the highest parts only begin to be seen at the dis- tance of about 18 miles, and the line of the coast itself is not discernible till within 13 or 14. Though there is water to the depth of 6 fathoms close to the Pharos, and from 52 to 4 along the whole shore to the point of Eu- nostus, at the entrance of the western harbour, and at 1 mile off not less than 20 fathoms, it is exceedingly dan- gerous to approach at night. There is, however, very good holding ground in the roads; and ships anchor, or lay to, about a smile off shore. The first ob- jects perceived from the sea are Pom- pey's Pillar, the forts on the mounds constructed by the French, and the detached forts added by Mohammed Ali, the Pharos and new lighthouse, and the buildings on the Ras e' Tin (the "Cape of Figs "), between the two ports; and on nearing the land, the obelisk, the Pasha's hareem and palace, the houses of the town, the masts of ships, and the different batteries (which have been lately much increased), the windmills to the west, and the line of coast extending to Marabut Point, begin to be seen. The old lighthouse, which occupies the site of the ancient Pharos, on a rock joined to the land by a causeway, has long been pronounced insufficient for the safety of vessels making the coast, both from its want of height, and the bad quality of the light itself, espe- cially in foggy weather, when it can scarcely be seen till a vessel has neared the land. Its distance from the western harbour is an additional cause of com- plaint. To remedy these inconve- niences, Mohammed Ali erected the new lighthouse on the point of Eunos- tus, which has at least the advantage of being in a better position for vessels arriving from Europe; but he made the mistake of not having a revolving light, which might have been put up at little more expense. On arriving off Alexandria by day- light, a pilot comes on board, to carry the vessel through the complicated channels of the western or old port, which are beset with shoals and reefs. [In the P. & O. Co.'s steamers a pilot Egypt. 67 ROUTE 1.--LONDON TO ALEXANDRIA. is always shipped at Malta, who comes into office on approaching the harbour of Alexandria.] But on making the coast late in the evening, she lays to till daylight, and early in the morning the pilot comes off; for no captain thinks of entering the harbour without him; the buoys laid down by the Eng- lish in 1801, to mark the passage, having been removed as soon as they left the country. There are many shoals on which the water is not suffi- cient for vessels of large tonnage; and first-rate line-of-battle ships are obliged to take out their guns, to enable them to pass safely through these channels. The main or central channel has 5 and 6 fathoms water, the Mar6but 42, 5, and 6; others, 4, 5, and 6; but they are very narrow, the widest not quite 21 cables or 1500 feet. The deepest part of the harbour, about due W. and due N. of the Catacombs, is 10, 10, and in one place 11 fathoms; close in, to within 200 feet of the shore, it is from 4 to 6; and under the town itself, at little more than1 cable's length off, 3 and 4 fathoms. As soon as the steamer anchors in the great harbour, shoals of boats come off to take the newly arrived strangers with their baggage ashore. Formerly, when the steamer was full of passen- gers, and the mass of luggage was great, it was often difficult for those who went no farther than Egypt to find his own; but the Egyptian luggage is now kept apart from that of the Indian passen- gers. It will, however, be necessary at the time of embarkation to see that it is all put together properly directed, and the traveller had better go, or send his servant a short time before he reaches Alexandria, to see that it is in one place and accessible, to escape a disagreeable scramble at the last mo- ment. [Commissionaires from the ho- tels invariably come on board, as soon as the steamer anchors; and the tra- veller (more especially if it be his first visit to the East) had better secure his services.] If he has paid his passage to India, and arrangements have been made for landing his things, it is unnecessary to take further trouble about them beyond seeing that they are all safe : and the Cawdsss employed by the Company will undertake to pass them at the Custom- house. If not on his way to India, and con- sequently no previous arrangements have been made, the traveller will be obliged to hire a boat for himself, or with some other passenger, and go to the Custom-house, where a small fee will enable him to pass his luggage without examination. Personal bag- gage is rarely examined. The price paid for a boat, which till lately was 6 piastres for each person with luggage, has now been increased, and like every- thing else in Egypt, constantly in- creases, so that no fixed sum can be stated as the proper price; nor is there any tariff to regulate and control these charges. According to the treaty of Balta Limin, all goods are to pay 5 per cent.; that is, 3 on entering the ports of Tur- key, and 2 on leaving them for the interior; which of course exempts them from further examination at any inland towns. In virtue of this, wine and spirits are free from every other duty, hitherto levied upon them at Cairo and other places. The treaty is very ex- plicit in its conditions respecting the duties, the abolition of monopolies, and the right given to all Europeans of purchasing the produce of the country, and exporting it without impediment on the payment of an ad valorem duty. On landing, the stranger, if he escapes the rapacity of the boatmen, who, like all other classes at Alexan- dria, are never satisfied, however well paid, is immediately pressed on all sides by the most importunate of hu- man beings, in the shape of donkey- drivers. Their active little animals may be called the cabs of Egypt; and each driver, with vehement vocifera- tions and gesticulations, recommend- ing his own, in broken English or bad Italian, strives to take possession of the unfortunate traveller, and almost forces him to mount. There are also car- riages; for one of which to the Great Square he will be asked from 18 to 24 piastres. The hire of a carriage with two horses for half a day was formerly Sec. I. 68 ROUTE .---ALEXANDRIA.-HOTELS. 50 piastres (or about 10 shillings), be- sides 5 or 6 piastres for the driver; but this, like everything else in Egypt, is nowgreatlyincreased [so that a napoleon is demanded for an afternoon's drive]. If hired for many hours the charge may be lessened, and much will depend on the agreement made beforehand; but as prices are very arbitrary and change so rapidly in Egypt, it is difficult to say what will be asked or what paid, next year; and the traveller can only learn by inquiry on the spot what is the proper sum to be paid in hiring or purchasing anything at Alexandria or Cairo. It is not only the natives who are rapacious and exacting; the Euro- peans in Egypt may vie with any of them, and their example is seldom very beneficial to the Egyptians. Camels can be hired to carry the luggage to the hotel; but a better mode of conveying luggage is by a cart, for which the same sum is ex- pected; and if light, much of it may be taken in the carriage. Omnibuses from the hotels also await the arrival of passengers at the transit wharf, where they land, and convey them to the hotels gratis; the heavy luggage coming in carts or trucks. If he does not dislike going on foot (provided it is dry weather), a walk of 15 or 20 minutes will take the traveller to the hotel. The streets through which he passes are narrow and irregular, the houses appearing as if thrown together by chance, without plan or order; and few have even that Oriental character which is so interesting at Cairo. Here and there, however, the lattice-work of the windows and a few Saracenic arches give the streets a picturesque appear- ance; and if he happens to take the longer, but more interesting, road through the bazaars, the stranger will be struck with many a novel and East- ern scene. But he had better visit them after he has secured and arranged his rooms at the hotel. On emerging from the dingy streets of the Turkish quarter, he will be sur- prised by their contrast with the larger and cleaner dwellings of the Europeans, where he will readily distinguish the houses of the consuls by the flag-staffs rising from their flat roofs. In the western harbour he will also have ob- served some buildings of a superior style, as the Pasha's palace, and some public buildings, which bear the stamp of Constantinople, or of Frank, taste; and even before landing he will have perceived considerable activity in the port, from which he may form some idea of the improvements that took place under the rule of Mohammed Ali. The Frank quarter stands at the ex- tremity of the town, farthest from the new port; which is in consequence of the European vessels having formerly been confined to the eastern harbour, and the consuls and merchants having built their houses in that direction. It has, within the last fifteen years, greatly increased in size, and is now extending far beyond the large square; in the centre of which stands a small badly proportioned obelisk of Oriental ala- baster, presented to the town by Mo- hammed Ali. The stone is from a quarry in the desert opposite Benisooef; but it is of very inferior quality, and badly selected, having been taken from parts of the bed not sufficiently com- pact for slabs of large dimensions. In this square are the principal hotels and most of the consulates. 2. HOTELS AT ALEXANDRIA. - The principal hotels are the Hotel d'Europe, and the Hotel d'Orient, or as it is now called the Peninsular and Oriental. The charges for board and lodging (which include breakfast, dinner, tea, and a bedroom) are the same as at Cairo, or 16s. a day. A sitting-room is charged extra, as well as wines, beer, wax candles, coffee, &c. [These two hotels, of great size and some dis- comfort, now charge a napoleon or 16s. a day for each person. Moreover, should the traveller not intend to re- main at Alexandria, but go on to Cairo by train in the course of an hour or two; yet if he breakfasts, or dines, or sleeps at the hotel, he is charged for a whole day, and that breakfast, or dinner, or bed will cost him 16s. "The Peninsular and Oriental" is by far the cleanest and best in every respect.] It is less easy to find good rooms or Egypt. 69 ROUTE 1.--ALEXANDRIA.-HISTORY. houses "to be let," at Alexandria than at Cairo; and they are much dearer. 3. SERVANTS. - Native and other servants may be engaged at Alex- andria for the voyage to Upper Egypt, but a better selection may be made at Cairo; and they are not much wanted on the railway. Of course any one well recommended by a friend at Alex- andria may be taken, and his services will not be useless in taking luggage to and from the railway. (For their wages, see sect. II. � c.) 4. BoATs.-Boats for a journey to Cairo are now superseded by the rail- way. 5. PURCHASE.-Now that the rail- way is established to Cairo, it is unne- cessary to make any purchases at Alex- andria for the journey; and though many things, as carpets, mouthpieces, tobacco, and all that is imported from Constantinople, ought to be cheaper there, it is better to buy them at Cairo, and save the trouble of transport. Per- haps it may be as well to take a few sandwiches, or a fowl, and wine, for the journey, rather than pay a high price for them at the railway-station on the road. 6. HisTonY op ALEXANDRIA.-Alex- andria was founded on the site of a small town called Racotis, or Rhacotis, by the great conqueror after whom it received its name. Its commodious harbour and other local recommendations rendered it a convenient spot for the site of a com- mercial city, and its advantageous position could not fail to stfike the penetrating mind of the son of Philip. It promised to unite Europe, Arabia, and India; to be the rival or successor of Tyre; and to become the emporium of the world. In the time of the Pharaonic kings the trade of Egypt was nearly confined to the countries bordering on the Ara- bian Gulf; and if, as is possible, India may be included among the number of those with which the Egyptians traded (either directly by water, or through Arabia), the communication was main- tained by means of that sea, or by land over the Isthmus of Suez. Indeed, I believe that Ennum (or, as it was after- wards called, Philoteras Portus), and the predecessor of ArsinoP, were the only two ports on the Red Sea during the rule of the early Pharaohs; the small harbours (the portus multi of Pliny) being then, as afterwards, merely places of refuge for vessels in stress of weather, or at night during a coasting voyage; and no towns yet existed on the sites of those known in later times as Berenice, Nechesia, and Leucos Portus. The commercial intercourse with the N. of Arabia, Syria, and the parts of Asia to the N. and N.E. of Egypt, was established by means of caravans, which entered Egypt by the Isthmus of Suez; and it was with one of these, on its way from Syria, that the Ishmaelites travelled who brought Joseph into Egypt. They had come "from Gi- lead, with their camels bearing spicery, and balm, and myrrh, going to carry it down to Egypt;" and this was the same line of route taken by the Egyp- tian armies on their march into Asia. The Mediterranean was not much used by the Pharaohs for maritime pur- poses connected either with war or com- merce, until the enterprise or the hos- tility of strangers began to suggest its importance. Even then the jealousy, or the caution, of the Egyptians forbad foreign merchants to enter any other than the Canopic, of all the seven branches of the Nile; and Naucratis was to them what the factories of a Chinese port were so long to Euro- pean traders. Ships of war, however, were fitted out upon the Mediterranean, as well as on the Red Sea, even in the age of the 18th Dynasty; and in after times an expedition was sent against Cyprus by Apries, who also defeated the Tyrians in a naval combat. The Egyptians had been satisfied with their river as their harbour; but when the advantages of a more ex- tended commercial intercourse with Europe, and the possibility of diverting the course of the lucrative trade with India and Arabia from Syria to Egypt, were contemplated, the necessity of a port on the Mediterranean coast became evident :and the advantages offered by the position of Rhacotis with its Isle of 70 Sect. I. Egypt. ROUTE 1.-ALEXA Pharos pointed it out as a proper place for establishing the projected empo- rium of the East. Tradition had fixed on this spot as the abode of the fabulous Proteus, called by Virgil and others a sea god and prophet, by Herodotus and Diodorus a king of Egypt; whose pretended ap- pearance under various forms is gravely attributed by Lucian to his postures in the dance, and by Diodorus to his knowledge of astrology, or to the sup- posed custom of the king's assuming varioth dresses to impose on the credu- lity of the people. Though, after all these statements, there seems to be only one doubt, which is the greatest improbability, the story or the explana- tion. After his conquest of Syria, Alexan- der had advanced into Egypt, and, by the taking of Memphis, had secured to himself the possession of the whole country. While at Memphis he con- ceived the idea of visiting the temple of Jupiter Ammon in the African desert; and with this view he de- scended the river to the sea. He then followed the coast westward from Ca- nopus, until, his attention being struck with a spot opposite the Isle of Pharos, he stopped to examine its position, and the advantages it offered as a naval station. It had been occasionally used as a refuge for ships at a very remote period, and Homer had mentioned it as a watering-place at the time of the Trojan war. According to Strabo, the ancient Egyptian kings, seeing that it was a spot frequented by foreigners, and par- ticularly by Greeks, and being averse to the admission of strangers (who were then frequently pirates), stationed a garrison there, and assigned to them as a permanent abode the village of Rhacetis, which was afterwards part of Alexandria. "The island of Pharos," says the Geographer," is of oblong form, stand- ing near the shore, and forming by its position an admirable port. The coast here curves into a large bay, with two promontories jutting out into the sea, on its eastern and western extremities ; between which is the island, furnish- NDRIA.--HISTORY. 71 ing a barrier in the middle of the bay." This island was afterwards connected with the main land by a dyke, and on a rock close to its extremity was built the famous tower of Pharos. But the description given of it by Homer, and the error respecting its supposed dis- tance from the shore, I shall have occasion to mention presently. Alexander, on arriving there, seeing how eligible a spot this natural harbour offered for building a city, lost no time in making arrangements for its com- mencement. The plan was drawn out, and Dinocrates, the architect, was commissioned to build the new city, which, from its founder, received the name of Alexandria. "The future prosperity of this city," continues the Geographer, "is reported to have been foreshownby a remarkable sign, manifested during the operation of fixing its plan. For whilst the archi- tect was marking out the lines upon the ground, the chalk he used hap- pened to be exhausted, upon which the king, who was present at the time, ordered the flour destined for the work- men's food to be employed in its stead, thereby enabling him to complete the outline of many of the streets. This occurrence was deemed a good omen;" and previous to prosecuting his journey to the Oasis, he had the satisfaction of witnessing the commencement of this flourishing city, B.c. 323. Strabo then enumerates the advantages of its site, and describes the position of some of its public buildings. " It possesses," he says, "advantages of more than one kind. Two seas wash it on both sides, one on the north, denominated the Egyptian, the other on the south, which is the Lake Marea. called also Mareotis. The latter is fed by several canals from the Nile, as well from above as from the sides; and by it many more things are brought to Alexandria than by the sea, so that the port on the lake side is richer than that on the coast. By this, also, more is exported from Alexandria than imported into it, which any one who has been at Alexandria and Dicearchia must have perceived, in looking at ROUTE 1.--ALEXANDRIA .--IISTORY, the merchant ships trading to and fro, and comparing the cargoes that enter and leave those two harbours. Besides the wealth that pours in on either side, both by the seaport and the lake, the salubrity of the air should also be noticed, which is caused by the peninsular situation of the place and by the opportune rising of the Nile. Other cities situated on lakes have a heavy and suffocating atmosphere during the summer heats, and, in consequence of the evaporation caused by the sun, the banks of those lakes becoming marshy, a noxious ex- halation is generated, which produces pestilential fevers; but at Alexandria the inundation of the Nile fills the lake in the summer season, and, by preventing its becoming marshy, effec- tually checks anyunwholesome vapours. At that time, also, the Etesian winds, blowing from the northward, and passing over so much sea, secure to the Alexandrians a most delightful summer. "The site of the city has the form of a (Macedonian) mantle, whose two longest sides are bathed by water to the extent of nearly 30 stadia, and its breadth is 7 or 8 stadia, with the sea on one side and the lake on the other. The whole is intersected with spacious streets, through which horses and chariots pass freely; but two are of greater breadth than the rest, being upwards of a plethrum wide, and these intersect each other at right angles. Its temples, grand public buildings, and palaces occupy a fourth or a third of the whole extent : for every suc- cessive king, aspiring to the honour of embellishing these consecrated monu- ments, added something of his own to what already existed. All these parts are not only connected with each other, but with the port and the buildings that stand outside of it. "Part of the palace is called the museum. It has corridors, a court, and a very large mansion, in which is the banqueting-room of those learned men who belong to it. This society has a public treasury, and is superin- tended by a president, one of the priesthood, whose office, having been established by the Ptolemies, continues under Caesar. "Another portion of the palace is called Soma (' the body '), which con- tains within its circuit the tombs of the kings, and of Alexander. For Ptolemy, the son of Lagus, took the body of Alexander from Perdiccas, while on its removal from Babylon; and having carried it to Egypt, buried it at Alexandria, where it still remains. But it is no longer in the same coffin; for the present one is of glass, and the original, which was of gold, was stolen by Ptolemy surnamed Cocces (KotK7s) and Parisactus (HIapEtoaCros~, though his immediate fall prevented his bene- fiting by the robbery. " On the right as you sail into the great harbour are the island and tower of Pharos; on the left, rocks, and the promontory of Lochias, where the palace stands; and, as you advance on the left, contiguous to the buildings at the Lochias, are the inner palaces, which have various compartments and groves. Below them is a secret and closed port, belonging exclusively to the kings, and the Isle of Antirhodus, which lies before the artificial port, with a palace and a small harbour. It has received this name as if it were a rival of Rhodes. Above this is the theatre, then the Posidium, a certain cove sweeping round from what is called the Emporium, with a temple of Neptune. Antony, having made a mole in this part projecting still further into the port, erected at its extremity a palace, which he named Timonium. This he did at the end of his career, when he had been deserted by his friends, after his misfortunes at Actium, and had retired to Alexandria, in- tending to lead a secluded life there, and imitate the example of Timon. Beyond are the Caesarium and empo- rium (market), the recesses, and the docks, extending to the Heptastadium. All these are in the great harbour. "On the other side of the Heptas- tadium is the port of Eunostus; and above this is an artificial or excavated one, called Kibtus (the basin), which has also docks. A navigable canal runs into it from the lake Mareotis, 72 Sect. I. .Egypt. ROUTE 1.-ALEXANDRIA.-HISTORY. and a small portion of the town ex- tends beyond (to the W. of) this canal. Further on are the Necropolis and the suburbs, where there are many gar- dens and tombs, with apartments set apart for embalming the dead. Within (to the E. of) the canal are the Sara- peum, and other ancient fanes, deserted since the erection of the temples at Nicopolis, where also the amphitheatre and stadium are situated, and where the quinquennial games are celebrated; the old establishments being now in little repute. The city, indeed, to speak briefly, is filled with ornamental buildings and temples, the most beau- tiful of which is the Gymnasium, with porticoes in the interior, measuring upwards of a stade. There, too, are the courts of law, and the groves; and in this direction stands the Panium, an artificial height of a conical form, like a stone tumulus, with a spiral ascent. From its summit the whole city may be seen, stretching on all sides below. "From the Necropolis a street ex- tends the whole way to the Canopic gate, passing by the Gymnasium. Be- yond are the Hippodrome and other buildings, reaching to the Canopic canal. After going out (of the city) by the Hippodrome, you come to Nico- polis, built by the sea-side, not less than three stades distant from Alex- andria. Augustus Coesar ornamented this place, in consequence of his having there defeated the partisans of Antony, and captured the city in his advance from that spot." Pliny, in speaking of the foundation of Alexandria, says, it was "built by Alexander the Great on the African coast, 12 miles from the Canopic mouth of the Nile, on the Mareotic Lake, which was formerly called Arapotes; that Dinochares, an architect of great celebrity, laid down the plan, resem- bling the shape of a M1acedonian mantle, with a circular border full of plaits, and projecting into corners on the right and left; the fifth part of its site being even then dedicated to the palace." This architect is better known by the name of Dinocrates and is the same who rebuilt the famous temple of Ephesus, after its destruction by Eratostratus, and who had previously proposed to Alexander to cut :Mount Athos into a statue of the king holding in one hand a city of 10,000 inha- bitants, and from the other pouring a copious river into the sea. But the naturalist gives us very little informa- tion respecting the public buildings or monuments of the city. In Plutarch's life of Alexander is a fabulous story of the foundation of Alexandria, related by the people of the place, who pretended its com- mencement to have been owing to "a vision, wherein a greyheaded old man of venerable aspect appeared to stand before the king in his sleep, and to pronounce these words :- NAos e prera ,s seis prXVK1\Va7- % em 7rovv, Asyssrrov rporapoOe, I'sapov 8e a KsKko-KOVUSY. 'High o'er the gulfy sea the Pharian Isle Fronts the deep roar of disemiboguing Nile.'* "Upon this Alexander repaired to Pharos, which was then an isla:d, lying a little above the Canopic mouth of the Nile, though now joined to the continent by a causeway. As soon as he saw the commodious situation of the spot opposite the island, being a neck of land of a suitable brea dth, with a great lake on one side, and on the other the sea, which there forms a capacious haven, he said, 'Homer, besides his other excellent qualities, was a very good architect,' and ordered the plan of the city to be drawn cor- responding to the locality. For want of chalk, the soil being black, they made use of flour, with which they drew a line about the semicircular bay that forms the port. This was again marked out with straight lines, and the form of the city resembled that of a Macedonian cloak. While Alex- ander was pleasing himself with this project, an infinite number of birds of several kinds, rising suddenly like a black cloud out of the river and the lake, devoured all the flour that had been used in marking out the lines; * Hom. Od. A. 354. [Egypt.] 73 ROUTE 1.-ALEXANDRIA.--DESCRIPTION. Sect. I. Plan of Alexandria, principally from the Survey of Capt. W. H. Smyth, R.N.-A A, The Hep- tastadium, or dyike connecting the Island of Pharos with the city. b b, The modern to n. y JJ 09 AJ ROUTE 1.-ALEXANDRIA.-DESCRIPTION. at which omen he was much troubled, till the augurs encouraged him to pro- ceed, by observing that it was a sign the city he was about to build would enjoy such abundance of all things that it would contribute to the nourish- ment of many nations. He therefore commanded the workmen to go on, while he went to visit the temple of Jupiter Ammon." 7. PLAN OF ALEXANIDRIA, AND SITE AND DESCRIPTION OF THE BUILDING.- Little can be added to the description given by Strabo of the monuments of Alexandria; but as it is interesting to endeavour to trace their probable position from the remains and mounds that still exist, or from other evidence, I shall mention each singly, and intro- duce whatever additional information may be obtained from other writers. The most remarkable objects at Alexandria were the Pharos and the libraries. The former, which was one of the seven wonders of the world, was the well-known tower or light- house, whose name continues to be applied to similar structures to the present day. It was a square building of white marble, and is said to have cost 800 talents, which, if in Attic money, is about 155,0001. sterling, or double that sum if comlputed by the talent of Alexandria. It was.built by order of Ptolemy Philadelphus, whose magnanimity in allowing the name of the architect to be inscribed upon so great a work, instead of his own, is highly commended by Pliny. The inscription ran in these words : "Sostratus of Cnidos, the son of Dexi- phanes, to the Saviour Gods, for those who travel by sea." But, besides the improbability of the king allowing an architect to enjoy the sole merit of so great a work, we have the authority of Lucian for believing that the name of Ptolemy was affixed to the Pharos, instead of that of Sostratus, the ori- ginal inscription having been-" King Ptolemy to the Saviour Gods, for the use of those who travel by sea." Sostratus, however, to secure the glory to himself in future ages, carved the former inscription on the stone, and that of Ptolemy on stucco, which he placed over it; so that in process of time, when the stucco fell, the only record was that of the deceitful architect. The Pharos itself stood on a rock close to the N.E. extremity of the island of the same name, with which it communicated by means of a wall, and the island was also joined to the shore by a large causeway, called, from its length of seven stades, the Heptastadium. It was already con- structed, as Josephus shows, in the reign of the same Ptolemy, which therefore implies that it was the work either of Philadelphus himself, or his father Soter, and not of Cleopatra, as Ammianus Marcellinus supposes; who even attributes to the same princess the erection of the Pharos itself. These erroneous notions of the his- torian may probably have originated cc, The Frank quarter. B, Fort Caffarelli,-perhaps the site of the tower of the Heptastadium -with the corresponding one at the other end. C, Old gate of the Saracenic walls, removed in 1842. D, Saracenic tower, where the wall turned off along the site of the docks. E, Ruins, probably of the Temple of Arsinod. F, Mosk of St. Athanasius. G, Ancient columns. H H H, Modern villas. I, Catholic convent. J to K, Ruins, probably of the Csesarium, before which the obelisks stood. L, Greek convent. M, Large ruins. From E to V was probably the quarter of Bruchion. N, Fort Cretin, or Fort Napoleon. 0, Columns and ruins. P, The Rosetta Gate. Q, the ancient wall of Alexandria, over which the Rosetta road passes, and near which stood the Canopic Gate. The Hippodrome is thought to be traced 2800 metres (nearly 11 mile) to the east of the Rosetta Gate, and about 250 from the sea. At U are the statues dis- covered by Mr. Harris. R, Ruins. The Emporium (market) probably stood between E and the obelisks J; and the Museum and Library of the Bruchion may have been about S or R, "the theatre adjoining the King's palace," as Caesar tells us, and the Museum being also attached to it. S, the site of the theatre. T, Site of the inner palaces? V, Site of the palace? The Jew's quarter was to the east of the modern canal, between V and the tomb of Shekh Shahtbek. W, Pompey's Pillar, erected in honour of Diocletian. X, Circus, or Stadium. Y, Site of the Gymnasium? Or at 0? Z, Site of the Sarapeum ? a a. Modern canal for irrigation. The walls enclose what was the Arab city; but those on the N.W. have been taken away. At I is the supposed tomb of Alexander, according to Arab tradition. Of the Panium, see p. 83. E2 Egypt. ROUTE I.-ALEXANDRIA.-DESCRIPTION. in the tradition of some repairs made by Cleopatra, after the Alexandrian war. The causeway was similar to that of Tyre; and though, by con- necting the island with the shore, it formed a separation between the two ports, it did not cut off all communi- cation from one to the other, two bridges being left for this purpose, beneath which boats and small vessels might freely pass. As the Heptasta- dium served for an aqueduct as well as a road to the Pharos, it is probable that the openings were arched; and the mention of these passages satisfac- torily accounts for the difference of name applied to the causeway by ancient writers; some, as Strabo, calling it a mole, and others a bridge, connecting the Pharos with the town. Strabo, in describing the position of the island and causeway, says, "From the Canopic mouth to Pharos is 150 stadia. Pharos is an island of oblong shape, close to the shore, with which it makes a double port; for the shore here curves into a bay with two pro- jecting headlands, between which is the island, stretching in a parallel direction with the shore and closing the bay. Of the two extreme points of the island the easternmost is nearest to the land, and to the promontory on. that side. The latter is called Acrolochias, and forms a port with a contracted entrance. Besides the nar- rowness of its mouth, several rocks impede the free passage into this port, some below, others above water, which, obstructing the waves as they roll in from the sea, cause a dangerous surf. At the extremity of the island is an isolated rock, with a tower of white stone several stories high, and wonder- fully constructed, having the same name as the island." . "The lowness of the coast, the ab- sence of all other harbours on either side, and its numerous reefs and shoals, pointed out the necessity of it as a signal to enable sailors to enter the port. The western one, it is true, is not of easy access, but it does not require the same caution. It is called the Port of Eunostus, and lies before the artificial and closed port. That whose entrance is from the Pharos tower is called the Great Harbour. "The two ports are contiguous to each other in the bay, and separated by the dyke called the Heptastadium, which extends from the land to the western part of the island, leaving only two navigable passages into the Port of Eunostus, covered by a bridge. Indeed it was intended, not only as a mode of communication with the island, but also as an aqueduct wheh that spot was inhabited. For at the time of the war with the kings of Egypt Caesar desolated it, and since that a few mariners alone have lived near the tower. The great harbour is not only well protected by the dyke and its natural position, but is so deep that the largest vessels may lie close to the steps, and it is divided into several parts." After the description of the Pharos given by ancient writers, it is singular that so great a mistake should have been made respecting the position of that island, and its distance from the shore. This was owing to the mis- interpretation of the ALyvx'rov 7rpo- 7rapocE of Homer, and it has continued to be repeated even to the present day. Having already had occasion to men- tion and explain it, I shall introduce what I before observed on the subject, to show that the following expression of the poet, "the distance of the isle of Pharos from Atyvr'ros was as much as a vessel with a fair wind could per- form in one day," refers to the river, and not to the coast of Egypt. For a very imperfect acquaintance with the situation of that island, and the nature of the ground on which Alexandria is built, ought to have prevented so erroneous a conclusion; and if we readily account for the misconstruction of the At-yrov rwporapoLOE of the poet, we are surprised at the notion which extends the river and its alluvial de- posit over the spot occupied by that city, which was at no period within reach of the rising Nile. And if a certain deposit does take place in the harbour of Alexandria, it is very trifling, and by no means capable of having united the Pharos to the shore. Sect. I. 76 Egypt. ROUTE 1.-ALEXANDRIA.-LIBRARY. 77 This was done artificially by means point of the island, to which it is of the Heptastadium, whose increased joined by a wall, Pocock thought he breadth, owing to many subsequent could perceive in the water, when the additions from the accumulation of sea was calm, some columus and other ruined buildings, now forms the base fragments of masonry, once probably of the chief part of the modern city. a part of that renowned building. The name of this causeway was de- The form of the Heptastadium is no rived from its length of 7 stadia, about longer perceptible, in consequence of of a mile, or 4270 English feet, which the modern buildings having en- was at that time the distance from croached upon it; but its length of the shore to the island. Ancient 7 stadia, or, as Caesar reckons, 900 Alexandria, the successor of the town paces, may be readily made out, in of Rhacitis, stood on the rock of the measuring from the site of the old Libyan desert, which was then, as it Saracenic wall behind the Frank quar- still is, beyond the reach and above ter. And, though its breadth has been the level of the inundation: and the greatly increased by the accumulation distance from the line of the coast to of earth on which the modern town the rock of the Pharos Isle is still the stands, I believe that a line drawn same as in the days of Homer. The from the site of that wall, or from error respecting its having been a Fort Caffarelli, to what was properly day's journey from Egypt originated the island of Pharos, would mark its in the misinterpretation of the word exact position. Atyir'ros which is used by the poet to The Library was first established designate both the Nile and Egypt; by Ptolemy Soter, as well as the and that the river was so called in Museum: The latter was a sort of ancient times is testified by Diodorus, academy (as we have seen from who states that Nileus, one of the Strabo s account), where men of science early monarchs of the country, trans- and literature devoted themselves to ferred his name to the stream, which learned pursuits, as in similar insti- previously bore that of IEgyptus. tutions of modern Europe. It was Arrian again justly observes " that maintained at the public expense, and the river, now called by the Egyptians to it was attached the famous Library, and others Nile, is shown by Homer which, from the many additions made to have been named ,Egyptus, when by the Second Ptolemy, contained at he relates that Menelaus anchored his his death no less than 100,000 volumes, fleet at the mouth of the ZEgyptus;" increased by his successors to seven and a mere inspection of the verse to times that number. which he alludes suffices to prove his No pains were spared in adding to remark to be correct. It is then to this collection. A copy of every known the Nile, not to the coast of Egypt, work was reputed to be deposited there, that Homer alludes; and thus the and it was amongst them that the Sep- argument derived from his authority tuagint translation of the Bible, made must cease to be brought forward in by order of Ptolemy Philadelphus, was support of the great encroachments placed. Of the arrangements respect- of the Delta, and of the constant ad- ing this translation, and the reception vance of the land into the receding of his countrymen, Josephus gives an sea. interesting account; but, always ready Pliny, and numerous ancient as well to show the great importance of the as modern authors, have been led into Jews, he forgets probability in this as this error; and it is singular that in many other instances, and informs Arrian should be the only one to per- us that each of the seventy-two in- ,ceive and point out the evident mean- terpreters received three talents. This, ing of the poet. if computed in Alexandrian money, The old lighthouse of Alexandria amounts to 31001. sterling, making a still occupies the site of the ancient total of 223,2001. ; a sum which not Pharos. On that rock, at the eastern even- the supposed munificence of a ROUTE 1.--ALEXANDRIA.-LIBRARY Ptolemy can render credible; and some are inclined, with Prideaux, to compute the amount still higher, even at two millions of our money. Nor does it appear that the Ptole- mies were always so liberally disposed, or so scrupulous in their way of ob- taining additions to their library; and though they spared no expense in sending competent persons into distant countries to purchase books, much tyranny and injustice were resorted to, when they could bring their pos- sessors within their reach, or when other states were generous enough to send them an original work. All books brought into the country were seized, and sent to the Library; not because forbidden, as in Italy, where the go- vernment sees in them an enemy to the morals of the people, or to its own security; but because they were wanted by the royal collector; and, as soon as they had been transcribed, the copies were returned to the owners, the ori- ginals being deposited in the library. Ptolemy Euergetes even went so far as to borrow the works of JEschylus, Sophocles, and Euripides from the Athenians, and only returned the copies he had caused to be transcribed in as beautiful a manner as possible, pre- senting them, in lieu of the original, 15 talents, or about 29061. sterling. Such selfish and unjust measures as these, doubtless, deserve our cen- sure; but we cannot refuse due praise to the liberality of those princes in the formation of so useful an institution: and we are surprised to find a sensible man like Seneca refusing them the merit they deserve, and disapproving of the praise bestowed upon that monu- ment of regal munificence. "Some," he says, "may have praised it, like Livy, who calls it a great proof of the taste and industry of kings. But it was attributable neither to taste, in- dustry, nor studious enjoyment; nay, far from studious, for it was not col- lected for study, but for display." "Seneca," as Rollin observes,i "must have been dreadfully out of humour when he wrote this misplaced censure on a work so creditable to the toste of the Ptolemies ;" for, even if he looked upon it as a mere mania for collecting, which increased with the increase of the collection, it would be the excus- able consequence of an interest com- mon to all who take a pride in any favourite object, which often accom- panies, without necessarily taking the place of, the original motive. But Seneca is not alone in attributing their motive to a mere love of possessing the largest collection; and whilst Vi- truvius praises "the Attalic kings for their philological taste" in making the library of Pergamus, he seems to consider the zeal of the Ptolemies to have been only excited by an envious feeling of rivalry. Vitruvius certainly appears to attribute this feeling to Ptolemy Philadelphus; but he could scarcely have made the error of sup- posing him to have lived after the foundation of the Pergamean library lby Eumenes; it was a later Ptolemy (Epiphanes) who forbade the exporta- tion of the papyrus, for the despicable reason of preventing the increase of the Pergamus library; and this selfish act led to the adoption of a substitute in parchment, the name of which-Per- gamena-will always recall the cause, as well as the nature, of this invention of Eumenes. But the Ptolemies were the originators, "the Attalic kings" the imitators; and the singular fate of the rival library was that it should after- wards merge into that of Alexandria. Of the 700,000 volumes, 400,000 appear to have been in the library of the Museum, which was in a quarter of the city called the Bruchion : and the remaining 300,000 in another library, which was built long after, and attached to the temple of Sarapis. It hence obtained the title of the sister library, and it was here that the 200,000 volumes belonging to the kings of Pergamus, presented to Cleopatra by Marc Antony, were deposited. These were the two public libraries men- tioned by Epiphanius. The library of the Museum was un- fortunately destroyed during the war of Julius Caesar with the Alexandrians. For, in order to prevent his aggressors cutting off his communication with the sea, being obliged to set fire to the 78 Sect. I. ROUTE 1. - -ALEXANDRIA.-LIBRARY. Egyptian, or, as Plutarch says, his own, fleet, the flames accidentally caught some of the houses on the port, and, spreading thence to the quarter of the Bruchion, burnt the library, and threat- ened destruction to the whole of the Museum and the adjoining buildings. The Museum itself escaped, but the famous library, consisting of 400,000 volumes, which had cost so much trouble and expense for ages to collect, was lost for ever; and in it doubtless some very valuable works of antiquity many of whose names may even be unknown to us. The collection in the Sarapion was also exposed to severe losses, at a sub- sequent period, during the troubles that occurred in the Roman empire. Many of the books are supposed to have been destroyed on those occa- sions, particularly at the time when the Sarapion was attacked by the Christians; and Orosius says he was at that time a witness of its empty shelves. We may, however, conclude that these losses were afterwards in some degree repaired, and the number of its volumes still further increased; though later contributions were pro- bably not of the same importance as those of an earlier period : and Gibbon goes so far as to suppose that, if the library was really destroyed by Amer, its contents were confined to the pro- ductions of an age when religious con- troversy constituted the principal occu- pation of the Alexandrians. "And," adds the historian, "if the ponderous mass of Arian and monophysite con- troversy were indeed consumed in the public baths, a philosopher may allow, with a smile, that it was ultimately devoted to the benefit of mankind." But, notwithstanding the injuries sus- tained by the Sarapion, during those tumults which ruined so many of the monuments of Alexandria, which con- vetted every public building into a citadel, and subjected the whole city to the horrors of internal war, many, doubtless, of the ancient volumes still remained within its precincts; and the Caliph Omar will for ever bear the odium of having devoted to destructiori that library, whose numerous volumes are said to have sufficed for six months for the use of the 4000 baths of this immense city. It is related of John the Gramma- rian, the last disciple of Ammonius, surnamed Philoponus from his labo- rious studies of grammar and philo- sophy, that, having been admitted to the friendship of Amer, the lieutenant of the Caliph Omar, he took advan- tage of his intimacy with the Arab general to intercede for the preserva- tion of the library of the captured city, which "alone, among the spoils of Alexandria, had not been appropriated by the visit and the seal of the con- queror. Amrou (Amer) was inclined to gratify the wish of the grammarian, but his rigid integrity refused to ali- enate the minutest object without the consent of the caliph; and the answer of Omar, inspired by the ignorance of a fanatic, ' If these writings of the Greeks agree with the Book of God, they are useless, and need not be pre- served; if they disagree, they are per- nicious, and ought to be destroyed,' ' doomed them to destruction. Such was the sentence said to have been pro- nounced by the impetuous Omar. The Moslems, however, to this day, deny its truth; and Gibbon observes, that "the solitary report of a stranger (Abulpharagius), who wrote at the end of 600 years, on the confines of Media, is overbalanced by the silence of two annalists of a more early date, both Christians, both natives of Egypt, and the most ancient of whom, the patriarch Eutychius, has amply de- scribed the conquest of Alexandria.' But the admission of some Arab writers, cited by the learned De Sacy in his notes on Abdal-Latif, seems to confirm the truth of Omar's vandal- ism: the authorities of Makrizi and Abdal-Latif are of considerable weight, notwithstanding the silence even of contemporary Christian annalists; and whilst we regret the destruction of this library, we may wish, with M. Rey Dussueil, that the capture of Alex- andria had happened half or a whole century later; when, instead of de- stroyers, the Arabs assumed the cha- racter of preservers of ancient literature. Egypt. 79 ROUTE 1.-ALEXANDRIA.-CiESARIUf. The Museum was a noble institution, corridor, for walking; and it is pro- which tended greatly to the renown bable that the philosophers frequently of Alexandria; and from which issued taught beneath this covered space, as those men of learning who have so in the stoa of Athens, or in the grove many claims on the gratitude and ad- of Academus. It is difficult now to miration f posterity. It was to this point out its exact site: it was pro- school of philosophy that the once re- bably near the modern branch of the nowned college of Heliopolis trans- canal that runs past the Rosetta Gate ferred its reputation; and that vene- to the sea; the Bruchion extending a rable city, which had been the resort short way to the E. of its banks, and of the sages of Ancient Greece, ceded reaching to the westward beyond the to Alexandria the honour of being the Casarium. seat of learning, and the repository of The Cxsarium, or temple of Caesar, the "wisdom of the Egyptians." Sci- is marked by the two obelisks (called ence, literature, and every branch of Cleopatra's Needles), which Pliny tells philosophy continued to flourish there us " stood on the port at the temple for many a generation; foreigners re- of Casar." Near this spot are what paired thither, to study and profit by is called the Roman tower, and to the ' the instruction of every kind for eastward the vestiges of buildings which its schools were established; " which still bear the name of the pa- and the names of Euclid, Eratosthenes, lace; and Strabo says the palace of Hipparchus, Ctesibius, and the elder the kings was situated on the point and younger Heron, Clemens, Origen, called Lochias, on the left of the great Athanasius, Ammonius, Theon, and harbour, which is the same as the his daughter Hypatia, shed a brilliant headland behind the modern Pharillon. lustre over the Greek capital of Egypt. Other palaces, called the inner, were But however respectable the learn- on the left connected with the former, ing and scientific acquirements of the and having numerous apartments and philosophers of Alexandria during the groves, below which was a private early periods of its history, the same port belonging exclusively to the sove- credit does not attach itself to the reign. The tombs of the kings, also, speculations of later times; and stood in this district, and formed part philosophy became at one period en- of the palace under the name of cumbered with a mass of wild fancy, "Sdma." In this enclosure the Pto.- as senseless as it was injurious to lemies were buried, as well as the the world. Nor was Alexandria less founder of the city, whose body, hay- noted, after the introduction of Chris- ing been brought to Egypt, and kept tianity, for speculative doctrines and at Memphis while the tomb was pre- religious controversy; and the conduct paring,was taken thence to Alexandria, of some of the early Christian primates and deposited in the royal cemetery. of that city reflects no honour on the Strabo mentions the removal of the community of which they were the original gold coffin in which it was most conspicuous, though not the most buried, and the substitution of another worthy, members. Still that seat of of glass, in which it was seen by Au- learning setained some remnant of its gustus; who, to show his respect for pristine excellence, even amidst the the memory of so great a man, adorned -tumults produced by bigotry and se- it with a golden crown, and strewed it dition; and the schools of astronomy, with flowers. geometry, physic, and various branches Arab tradition has long continued of science maintained their reputation to record the existence of the tomb of till the period of the Arab conquest. Alexander; and Leo Africanus men- The Museum stood, as already stated, tions "a small edifice standing in the in the quarter of the Bruchion. Ac- midst of the mounds of Alexander, cording to Strabo, it was a very large built like a chapel, remarkable for the building, attached to the palace, sur- tomb where the body of the great rounded by an exterior peristyle, or prophet and king, Alexander, is pre- 80 Sect. 1r Egypt. ROUTE 1.-ALEXANDRIA.--ALEXANIDER'S TOMB. 81 served. It is highly honoured by the palace and port, is supposed by Po- Moslems; and a great concourse of cooke to have been entirely destroyed strangers from foreign lands, who, with by the sea, and to have stood opposite feelings of religious veneration, visit the two obelisks. this tomb, often leave there many cha- The same learned traveller also con- ritable donations.,' The building tra- jectures that on a hill above this, now ditionally reported to be the tomb of called Kom Dimas, near the Rosetta Alexander, has lately been found by Gate, was the theatre. It was "con- Mr. Stoddart amidst the mounds of the tiguous to the palace," and Cesar adds, old city. It resembles an ordinary it " served as a citadel, and had a Shekh's tomb, and is near the bath to communication with the port and the the west of the road leading from the other dockyards." In the immediate Frank quarter to the Pompey's-Pillar- vicinity was the Posidium, apparently Gate. But its position does not agree a part of the city, on a cove, containing with the "Soma," according to Strabo's the Temple of Neptune, whence it de- account; and the authority of Arab rived its name. It extended from tradition cannot always be trusted. the Emporium or market-place; and The sarcophagus, said to have been before it Antony built the Timonium, so looked upon by the people of Alex- called from his intending it as a place andria as the tomb of Iscander, was of retirement after his defeat at Ac- taken by the French from the mosk of tium, where, like the misanthropic Athanasius, and is now in the British Timon of Athens, he might shun the Museum. That it is what the Arabs world, and lead a life of perfect seclu- believed to be of the Greek conqueror sion. It was in going thence towards seems sufficiently evident, but neither the west that you came to the Cesa- their authority nor probability suffices rium and Emporium, and the recesses; to establish its claims; and the hiero- beyond which were the docks, extend- glyphics carved upon it prove it to ing even to the Heptastadium. have belonged to an Egyptian Pharaoh. The site of the first of these I have It is not from the fact of Alexander's noticed. The Timonium stood at the body having been deposited in a glass projecting point between the obelisks coffin that the claims of the breccia of the Cesarium and the Royal Port; sarcophagus may be questioned,-as and the Emporium, or market, was the glass (like the golden) case was probably to the W. of the obelisks, doubtless placed in an outer one of opening, as might be expected, on the stone; but the improbability consists port, the shore, as Strabo says, "sweep- in the-body of so great a king, the ing round from it" to the Posidium founder of the city, having been de- (p. 72); but the great docks occupied posited in a borrowed sarcophagus, at what is now the square of the Frank a time when the arts of sculpture and quarter, which stands on ground re- of cutting hard stones were as much claimed from the sea. practised as at any previous period; On the W. side of the mole, or Hep- and Ptolemy Lagus had at his com- tastadium, was the port of Eunostus, mand all the workmen of the country. now called the old harbour; and an Nor is it to be supposed that a Pha- artificial one above it called theKibotus, raoh's body would have been deprived or basin, with its docks, doubtless of its resting-place, to make room for occupied the spot to the S.W. of the that of a Greek monarch; and the modern Fort Caffarelli. Beyond this violation of the tombs, which could not was a canal leading to the Mareotie have happened in secret, when such Lake. The limits of the city extended large sarcophagi were removed from a very short distance farther to the W. them, was more likely to take place of the canal; beyond which were the under the Arabs, than under the Greek suburbs and Necropolis, with many kings. gardens, occupying the space between The island of Antirhodus, situated the modern canal and the catacombs. before the artificial harbour, with its Within the city, and on the eastern side E3 ROUTE 1.-ALEXANDRIA.-SARAPEUM. of the canal, stood several ancient as those know who are initiated into temples, most of which were neglected the mysteries of Osiris. The opinion in Strabo's time, in consequence of the of such as pretend that Sarapis is no erection of others at Nicopolis. There god, but the mere denomination of the also was the Sarapion, or Sarapeum, sepulchral chest into which the body founded by Ptolemy Soter, as reported of Apis, after death, is deposited, is by Plutarch and others, for the recep- perfectly absurd. The priests, indeed, tion of the statue of SaLapis, a foreign at least the greatest part of them, tell deity whose worship was introduced us that Sarapis is no other than the from Sinope. It stood in that part of mere union of Osiris and Apis into one the city which had formerly been word; declaring that Apis ought to be occupied by Rhacotis, the predecessor regarded as a fair and beautiful image of Alexandria, and was embellished of the soul of Osiris. For my own with such magnificence that Ammi- part, I cannot but think that this word anus Marcellinus pronounces it un- is expressive of joy and gladness, since equalled by any building in the world, the festival which the Greeks call except the Capitol at Rome. It ap- Charmosyna, or ' the feast of joy,' is by pears not only to have contained the the Egyptians termed Sarei." temple of the deity, but to have con- A similar account is given by Ta- sisted, like the Museum, of several dis- citus, Macrobius, and Pausanias; but tinet parts, as the library already men- Clemens states that the statue was tioned, and peristylar halls, adorned sent by the people of Sinope to Pto- with beautiful works of art. lemy Philadelphus, as a mark of gra- Of the introduction of Sarapis into titude, he having relieved their city Egypt, Plutarch gives the following from famine by a supply of corn; and account: - " Ptolemy Soter had a some suppose "it was brought from dream, in which a colossal statue, Pontus to Alexandria, in consequence such as he had never seen before, of the great influx of strangers into appeared to him, commanding him to that city." remove it as soon as possible from the There is some obscurity about the place where it then stood, to Alex- name and character of Sarapis; and andria. On awaking, the king was in Macrobius asserts, that, though the great perplexity, not knowing where Egyptians were compelled by the ty- the statue was. Sosibius, however, ran y of the Ptolemies to admit the who was a great traveller, declared he worship of this god and of Saturn, no had seen one answering its description temple of Sarapis was ever admitted at Sinope. Soteles and Dionysius were, within the precincts of their cities. therefore, sent thither, and with much But while it may be true that the difficulty succeeded in bringing the Sarapis worshipped by the Greeks was statue to Egypt. Timotheus the in- not acknowledged by the Egyptians, terpreter, and Manetho the Sebennite, the name was no other, as Plutarch as soon as it arrived and was shown to says, than the union of Osiris (or Siris) them, concluded, from the Cerberus and Apis into one word. He was ori- and dragon, that it represented Pluto, ginally a form of Osiris; and the fact and persuaded the king that it was no of his temple being without the city other than Sarapis. For it was not so might be explained by Osiris being called at Sinope; but, on its arrival at the god of the dead. The Sarapis of Alexandria, it obtained the name of the Greeks and Romans in Egypt was Sarapis, which, with the Egyptians, called Pluto and Sol inferus; he be- answers to Pluto. The observalion of came among them a distinct deity, and Heraclitus the physiologist, that Hades in later times his worship was more (Pluto) and Bacchus are the same, general there than that of any other leads to a similar conclusion; Osiris god. answering to Bacchus, as Sarapis to The Sarapeum subsisted long after Osiris, after he had changed his nature; the introduction of Christianity into for Sarapis is a name common to all, Egypt, as the last hold of the Pagans 82 Sec. . Egypt. ROIUTE 1.-ALEXANDRIA.--SARAPEUM. 83 of Alexandria. Nor did it lose its of Sarapis. The two parties assembled importance, as Strabo would lead us without arms in the principal square; to suppose, from the number of rival and the imperial rescript was publicly temples, or the increasing consequence read. But when a sentence of destruc- of Nicopolis; and it continued to be tion against the idols of Alexandria their chief resort until finally demo- was pronounced, the Christians set up lished by order of Theodosius, A.D. 389, a shout of joy and exultation, whilst when the votaries of the cross entirely the unfortunate Pagans, whose fury subverted the ancient religion of Egypt. had given way to consternation, retired The building and its destruction are with hasty and silent steps, and eluded, thus described by gibbon. The temple by their flight or obscurity, the resent- of Sarapis, "which rivalled the pride ment of their enemies. Theophilus and magnificence of the Capitol, was proceeded to demolish the temple of erected on the spacious summit of an Sarapis, without any other difficulties artificial mount, raised one hundred than those which he found in the steps above the level of the adjacent weight and solidity of the materials; parts of the city; and the interior ca- but these obstacles proved so insupe- vity was strongly supported by arches, rable, that he was obliged to leave the and distributed into vaults and subter- foundations, and to content himself raneous apartments. The consecrated with reducing the edifice itself to a buildings were surrounded by a quad- heap of rubbish; a part of which was rangular portico: the stately halls, the soon afterwards cleared away, to make exquisite statues, displayed the triumph room for a church, erected in honour of the arts : and the treasures of ancient of the Christian martyrs . . . . The learning were preserved in the famous colossal statue of Sarapis was involved Alexandrian library, which had arisen in the ruin of his temple and religion. with new splendour from its ashes." A great, number of plates of different But in progress of time the animo- metals, artificially joined together, sity of the Christians was directed composed the majestic figure of the against this edifice; the "pious indig- deity, who touched on either side the nation of Theophilus" could no longer walls of the sanctuary. The huge tolerate the honours paid to Sarapis; idol was overthrown and broken to "and the insults which he offered to pieces; and the parts of Sarapis were an ancient chapel of Bacchus convinced ignominiously dragged through the the Pagans that he meditated a more streets of Alexandria." important and dangerous enterprise. The Panium, described by Strabo as In the tumultuous capital of Egypt, an artificial height, in the shape of a the slightest provocation was sufficient top, resembling a stone mound, with to inflame a civil war. The votaries a spiral ascent, and commanding a of Sarapis, whose strength and numbers view of the whole city, was supposed were much inferior to those of their by Pococke to have been marked by a antagonists, rose in arms at the insti- hill within the walls behind the Frank gation of the philosopher Olympius, quarter, since occupied by Fort Caffa- who exhorted them to die in defence relli, which is built on ancient sub- of the altars of the gods. These Pa- structions. Sole have conjectured it gan fanatics fortified themselves in the to have been the height on which temple, or rather fortress of Sarapis, Pompey's Pillar stands, and others repelled the besiegers by daring sal- have placed it on the redoubt-hill to lies and a resolute defence, and, by the the W. of that monument. inhuman cruelties which they exer- The Gymnasium stood near the street cised on their Christian prisoners, ob- which extended from the western or tained the last consolation of despair. Necropolis Gate to that on the Canopic The efforts of the prudent magistrate or eastern side; which were distant were usefully exerted for the establish- from each other 40 stadia, the street ment of a truce, till the answer of being 100 ft. broad. It had porticoes Theodosius should determine the fate covering the space of an eighth of A 84 ROI'T'E 1.-ALEXANDRIA.-MONUMENTS. Sect. I. mile, of which Pococke conjectures broadest, and 1600 in the narrowest the granite columns near the main part. Till lately it was a large unin- street to be the remains. The Forum habited area, whose gloomy mounds he places between this and the sea; were only varied here and there by and he attempts to fix the site of the the gardens or villas of the Franks, Necropolis Gate on the S. of the pre- and other inhabitants of Alexandria ; sent town. Two large streets were a but now that the Saracenic walls of few years ago clearly traced, as well the town have been removed, and this as the spot where they intersected once vacant space is daily becoming each other at right angles; and these occupied by streets, churches, and de- I supposed to be the same that Strabo tached houses, it may once more be mentions, one running from the Ca- looked upon as part of Alexandria. nopic to the Necropolis Gate, the other The site of the old Canopic Gate lay between the Gates of the Sun and Moon. very much further to the E. than the But on further examination I am in- modern entrance on that side. Indeed clined to think that, though one of the circuit has been so much dimi- them was the street leading from the nished, that the latter stands on what Mareotic or Sun Gate to the sea, the was once part of the street leading to other was not the main street that tra- the Canopic Gate, whose site was about versed the centre of the city E. and W., half a mile further to the eastward. the site of which ought to be farther The wall of the ancient city, on that to the S. Yet it was a street of some side, passed under the lofty mounds consequence, as is proved by the co- occupied by the French lines before lumns and the remains of buildings the battle of Alexandria; and the re- seen throughout its course: and if mains of masonry, its evident line of there is a difficulty in ascribing these or direction, and the termination of the other ruins to any particular edifice, it mounds of the town in that part, suffi- may readily be accounted for in a city ciently show its position. which, as Diodorus observes, contained 8. MONUMENTS OUTSIDE THE CA- a succession of temples and splendid NOPIc GATE.-On going out of the mansions. Canopic Gate, and passing by the Hip- One large building stood to the N. podrome, you came to Nicopolis, distant of this street (which is still partly 30 stadia, or, according to Josephus, marked by the modern road to the 28 from Alexandria. It was here that Rosetta Gate), on the N.E. of S. Gi- Augustus defeated the partisans of barra's Garden, where some very large Antony, whence its name, "the City columns have lately been found, of Victory." And in order still more Outside the modern walls, and at to honour that spot, the conqueror the extreme N.E. corner of the old adorned it with numerous fine build- city, was the Jews' quarter, or Begio ings and places of public resort, which Judeorum, separated from the Bruchion induced many persons to prefer it for by its own wall: and though not so an abode to Alexandria itself. He extensive as some would lead us to also established quinquennial games suppose, it was inhabited by a large there, similar to those at another city population, governed 1r its own Eth- of the same name built by him in narch, and enjoying great privileges Epirus, to commemorate the victory of granted at various times by the Caesars. Actium. It is now marked by an old Its site was between the palaces and Roman station, called Caesar's Camp the modern tomb of Shekh Shahtbek, (which I shall mention in Rte. 2, and and near this is the Jewish cemetery by fragments of masonry, columns, at the present day. and marble mouldings. The Hippo- The Rosetta Gate is the eastern drome may also be looked for on this entrance of the large walled circuit, side of the town, and S. Mansini thinks which lies to the S. and S.E. of the that he has traced its figure in the modern town. The space it encloses plain beyond the French lines, 2800 is about 10,000 ft. long, by 3200 in the mitres (nearly 1 miles) from the Ro- ROUTE 1.--ALEXANDRIA.- REMAINS. setta Gate, and about 250 mbtres from the sea. There was also a circus in the vici- nity of Pompey's Pillar, which I shall have occasion to mention. - The site of the Canopic canal may be partly found in that of the Mah- moodiih. It was on the rt. as you went out of the gate, flowing into the lake, and communicating with the town of Canopus. The water that supplied Alexandria was furnished by this canal from the Nile, and partly from the rains which fell in winter. But the principal supply was, as may be sup- posed, derived from the canal, and was preserved in cisterns or reservoirs, constructed beneath the houses. These cisterns were often of considerable size, having their roofs supported by rows of columns, vaulted in brick or stone. Being built of solid materials, and well stuccoed, they have in many instances remained perfect to this day; and some continue even now to be used for the same purpose by the modern inhabit- ants. The water is received into them during the inundation, and the cistern being cleansed every year, previous to the admission of a fresh supply, the water always remains pure and fresh. In some, steps are made in the side; in others, men descend by an opening in the roof, and this serves as well for lowering them by ropes, as for draw- ing out the water, which is carried on camels to the city. Reservoirs of the same kind are also found in the convents that stand on the site of the old town; and se- veral wells connected with them may be seen outside the walls, in going to- wards the Mahmooddih canal. They show the direction taken by the chan- nels that conveyed the water to the cisterns in the town. One set of them runs parallel to the eastern exit of the Mahmooddih, another is below the hill of Pompey's Pillar, and another a little less than half way from this to the former line. It was by means of these cisterns that Ganymedes, during the war between Julius Casar and the Alexandrians, contrived to distress the Romans, having turned the sea-water into all those within the quarter they occupied; an evil which Casar found great difficulty in remedying, by the imperfect substitute of wells. 9. PRESENT REMAINS OF ANCIENT ALEXANDRIA.-The most striking mo- numents of ancient Alexandria are the well-known obelisks, and Pompey's Pil- lar. The former are the same which, as already shown, Pliny mentions be- fore the temple of Caesar, and which he supposes to have been cut and sculptured by Mesphres. In this, in- deed, he is not far from the truth, since the Pharaoh whose ovals they bear was the third Thothmes; and it is remark- able that the names of two kings who lived about that period, the first and second Thothmes, are written in Ma- netho's list as Mesphra-Thothmosis. In the lateral lines are the ovals of Remeses the Great, the supposed Se- sostris, and additional columns of hie- roglyphics at the angles of the lower part present that of a later king, ap- parently Sethi or Osirei II., the third successor of the great Remeses. They stood originally at Heliopolis, and were brought to Alexandria by one of the Caesars; though fame has attached to them the title of Cleopatra's Needles, with the same disregard to truth that ascribes to her the honour of erecting the Heptastadium and the Pharos. They are of red granite of Syene, like most of the obelisks in Egypt, and about 57 paces apart. The standing obelisk is about 70 ft. high, with a diameter at its base of 7 ft. 7 in. Pliny gives them 42 cubits, or 63 ft. One is still standing, the other has been thrown down, and lies close to its pedestal, which stood on two steps of white limestone; the pedestals of Egyptian obelisks being usually a square dado or die, without any mould- ing, scarcely exceeding the diameter of the obelisk, and placed upon two plinths, the one projecting beyond the other in the form of steps. The height of the fallen obelisk, in its mutilated state, is about 66 ft., and of the same diameter as the other. It was given by Mohammed All to the English, who were desirous of re- moving it to England as a record of their successes in Egypt, and of the Egypt. 85 8 ROUTE 1.-ALEXANDRIA.-POMPEY'S PILLAR. glorious termination of the campaign of 1801. The Pasha even offered to transport it free of expense to the shore, and put it on board any vessel or raft which might be sent to remove it; but the project has been wisely abandoned, and cooler deliberation has pronounced that, from its mutilated state, and the obliteration of many of the hieroglyphics by exposure to the sea-air, it is unworthy the expense of removal. Pococke supposes these obelisks to have stood before the temple of Nep- tune, but I do not know on what autho- rity. He gives them 63 ft. in height. Another obelisk once stood at Alex- andria, erected by Ptolemy Philadel- phus at the temple of Arsin6e his sister, which was afterwards taken to Rome. It had originally been cut by Nectabis (Nectap.ebo), and was with- out hieroglyphics. Maximus, when prefect of Egypt, finding it in the way of the docks, removed it, and sent it to Rome, where it was put up in the Forum, its apex having been cut off to be replaced with gold, which was never done. Pliny gives it 80 cubits, or 120 ft. The temple of Arsinoe, as Pliny shows, stood near the docks; and it was here that the celebrated statue of that deified princess was placed by Di- o~rates, which, being made of load- stone, was suspended in the air by an equal attraction of the iron that sur- rounded it. Philadelphus had also erected a temple to his father and mother,where their statues, made of gold and ivory, were treated with the honours paid to deities; and Pliny mentions a "statue of topaz representing the same Arsinoai, and measuring 4 cubits, which was piuts up in what was called the golden sanc- tuary." Just beyond the obelisks to the E. was an old round tower, forming the corner of the wall, at the point where it turns off to the southward. It was called the "Roman tower," though, from its position and style of building, I should rather attribute it to an early Saracenic age. A drawing of it is given in the great French work. Pompey's Pillar stands on an emi- nence about 1800 ft. to the S. of the present walls. It consists of a capital, shaft, base, and pedestal, which last reposes on substructions of smaller blocks, once belonging to older monu- ments, and probably brought to Alex- andria for the purpose. On one I ob- served the name of the First Psam- metichus. A few years ago curiosity had tempted the Arabs and some Eu- ropeans to dig into and pick out the cement that united those stones, which might have endangered the safety of the column, had not the Pasha ordered the holes to be filled up with mortar, to check the curious. Its substructions were evidently once under the level of the ground, and formed part of a paved area, the stones of which have been removed (probably to serve as materials for more recent buildings), leaving only those beneath the column itself, to the great risk of the monument. It is to be regretted that the protec- tion of the Egyptian government has not been so far extended to this inte- resting relic of ancient Alexandria, as to prevent its pedestal and shaft being defaced by the names of persong who have visited it, or of ships that have anchored in the port, some of which are painted in black letters of mon- strous height. The name given to this column has led to much criticism. Some derived it from Pompaios, as having served for a landmark, and others endeavoured to read in the inscription the name of Pompey, but the name is either Pub- lius, or P. followed by a nomen, as I shall presently have occasion to state. Others, again, erroneously supposed its Arabic title, Amiod e' Sowari, to con- nect it with Severus; and some even attributed it to Julius Caesar. But Sari, or Sowari, are terms applied to any lofty monument, which conveys the idea of a "mast;" anti the inscription, of which Mr. Salt and I were enabled, with the assistance of a ladder, and by chalking out the letters, to make the following copy, shows it to have been erected by Publius, the prefect of Egypt, in honour of Diocletian. Sect. I. ROUTE i.---ALEXANDRIA.-POMPEYS8 PILLAR. It appears to be--- TON TIMIDITATON AYTOKPATOPA TON IIOAIOYXON AAEEANAPEIAC AIOKAHTIANON TON ANIKHTON IIOYBAIOC EIIAPXOO AIIYIITOY But as it was not customary to intro- duce a prenomen without any nomen, the reading of Publius should rather be P. (for Publius), followed by OURAIOS or some such nomen, though I cannot discover any record of a Prrefect of Egypt in the time of Diocletian bearing a name similar to this. The total height of the column is 98 ft. 9 in., the shaft is 73 ft., the circumference 29 ft. 8 in., and the diameter at the top of the capital 16 ft. 6 in. The shaft is elegant and of good style, but the capital and pe- destal are of inferior workmanship, and, as has been remarked by Dr. Clarke and others, have the appear- ance of being of a different epoch. Indeed, it is probable that the shaft is of an earlier time, and that the unfi- nished capital and pedestal were added to it at the period oi its erection in honour of the emperor On the summit I observed a circular depression of considerable size, in- tended to admit the base of a statue, as 'is usual on monumental columns; and at each of the four sides is a cramp, by which it was secured. This is more probable than what I before supposed, that it indicated the position of an equestrian statue; and, indeed, in an old picture or plan of Alexan- dria, where some of the ancient monu- ments are represented, is the figure of a man standing on the column. An Arab tradition pretends that it was one of four columns that once sup- ported a dome or other building; but little faith is to be placed in the tales of the modern inhabitants. Macrisi and Abd-e'latief state that it stood in a stoa surrounded by 400 coluhimns, where the library was that Omar or- dered to be burnt; which (if true) would prove that it belonged to the Sarapeum. That the people of Alexandria should erect a similar monument in honotlir of Diocletian is not surprising, since he had on more than one occa- sion a claim to their gratitude, "having granted them a public allowance of corn to the extent of two millions of medimni,"' and "after he had taken the city by siege when in revolt against him, having checked the fury of his soldiers in their promiscuous massacre of the citizens." To me, indeed, it ap- pears probable that this column silently records the capture of Alexandria by the arms of Diocletian in A.D. 296, when the rebellion of A hi leus had obliged him to lay siege to the re- volted city, and the use of the epithet avey'rov "invincible,"' applied to the emperor, is in favour of my opinion. This memorable siege, according to the historian of the Decline, lasted eight months; when, " wasted by the sword and by fire, it implored the cle- mency of the conqueror, but expe- rienced the full extent of his severity. Many thousands of the citizens per- ished in the promiscuous slaughter, and there were few obnoxious persons in Egypt who escaped a sentence either of death or at least of exile." In the hollow space to the S.W. of this column is the site of an ancient circus, or a stadium; from which the small fort, thrown up by the French on the adjoining height, received the name of the "Circus Redoubt." Ac- cording to the plan given of it in the great French work, many of the de- tails of the interior were then visible; and its general form is still distinctly traced. Some may have hence inferred that the Gymnasium stood in this direction: which too, according to Strabo, seems to have been near the Panium: and from its great extent, there is little difficulty in supposing it reached to the N. towards the main street that ran to the Canopic Gate, while its E. side extended along the other main street which led from the port to the lake, and which crossed the former at right angles, as already stated. The hollow road to the E. of Pompey's Pillar appears to mark the direction of' the street in this part; and if the Gymnasium was really here and comprehended the stadium within it, Pompey's Pillar also stood within its extensive limits. Eyypt. ROUTE 1.-ALEXANDRIA.-CATACOMBS. Nothing which remains of Alex- from the Catholic convent, near the andria attest its greatness more than Frank Square. Much of course might the catacombs upon the coast to the be done to ascertain the direction of westward. The entrance to them is the streets, the position of the principal close to a spot once covered with the buildings, and the general plan of the habitations and gardens of the town, ancient city, by tracing the form of or suburb of the city, which, from the the substructions, and the sites of the neighbouring tombs, was called the numerous arched reservoirs, that once Necropolis. The extent of these cata- formed a sort of subterraneous town, combs is remarkable; but the prin- and doubtless took their position from cipal inducement to visit them is the that of the buildings above. But this elegance and symmetry of the archi- would require extensive excavations, tecture in one of the chambers, having and the removal of large mounds that a Doric entablature and mouldings, in have accumulated over them; and the good Greek taste, which is not to be number of modern edifices building met with in any other part of Egypt. there will soon make it impossible. Tapers, a basket of provisions, and, On the shore are the tombs above- if the traveller intends to penetrate mentioned, and the vestiges of solid far into them, a rope, are necessary; substructions,at the eastern and western and if he wishes to take measurements port; and it is easy to observe from of the mouldings, a ladder. He may the former, how great a depression of go either by land or water. The dis- the land has taken place on this coast, tance from the Frank quarter is about many of them being now submerged 24 miles. On the way he will pass several feet below the water; and this several tombs at the water's edge, sufficiently counteracts, and prevents, some of which are below the level any advance of the Delta into the sea. of the sea, and having been mistaken A similar depr.ssion of the land is for baths have received the name of observable in many parts of the Medi- "Bagni di Cleopatra." If he happens terranean; while in others, great ele- to be remaining on board a yacht in vations, or gradual uplifting of the the harbour, he will do well to take ground, are found to have taken place, advantage of that time to visit them, as as at Classe near Ravenna, at Arles, it will save a portion of the distance. and elsewhere. The same I have also There are other catacombs to the observed on the Red Sea at Suez, east, which I shall mention presently Aboodurrag, and other places on the (Rte. 2). western coast, where the land, strewed Little now remains of the splendid with recent shells, is raised many feet edifices of Alexandria; and the few above the reach of the highest seas. columns, and traces of walls, which a The excavations carried on amidst few years ago rose above the mounds the mounds of the old town, mostly for are no longer seen. A short time the purpose of laying the foundations since, three granite columns stood on of modern houses, occasionally bring what was one of the large streets, to light a few relics, as parts of statues, nearly opposite the mosk of St. Atha- large columns, and remains of masonry, nasius. The base of another, on the which last, if properly examined and road towards the Rosetta Gate, re- planned at the time, might serve as a mained in December, 1841, and was guide to the position of its ancient then broken to pieces; and the sites of buildings; and whoever has an oppor- these and others will in a few years be tunity would do well to mark the site matter of uncertainty, as is that of the of ruins wherever they are found. intersection of the two streets already Among the inscriptions that have mentioned (p. 84), which thirty years been discovered is this of the 3rd year ago was distinctly seen, not very far of Adrian :- TI B E P I O N K A A Y AI ON A H M HT P 10 N r E N O M E N NONE Hr HTHNTOI ETEIAAPIA N OY KAI ~ APO 2 TOYKYPIOYKAITOI E E HEAETE IIHOMNHMATorPAI ON IIPOTONAPXONTONXEIPOTO N HOENTAAPXHEIIAPXHI. 88 Sect; I. ROUTE 1.-ALEXANDRIA.,--RUINS. On the fragment of a horse found near the site of the old theatre, on the way to the Lazzaretto, was this inscription- OEONANTIOXEYCKAI AHMHTPIOCAHMHTPIOY POMAIOCEHIIOIHCAN- of the two sculptors; and Mr. Harris copied another discovered there of the time of L. Septimius Severus, who on this, as on other occasions, assumed the name of Pertinax. Behind the garden formerly be- longing to Signor Gibarra, and about E.N.E. of the Greek convent, are some large substructions, with several granite columns of considerable size, evidently belonging to a very fine edi- fice; and behind Mr. Cossiva's house (at E), near the end of the Frank Square, are other granite columns, of smaller dimensions, some of which are remarkable from being clustered to- gether in threes. These last perhaps belonged to the Temple of Arsinoe, whose obelisk was removed, in conse- quence of its being in the way of the docks. There are also some large co- lumns, and extensive brick substruc- tions, as well as stone vaults, at a short distance beyond this spot, about 1400 ft. to the E. of the Saracenic tower (D), where the basement of a large building is seen, with remains of cisterns once beneath the ground-floor. About 600 or 700 feet behind the obelisks, and in a line with the wall of the Greek convent, are the vestiges of buildings; and in this spot were found a marble colossal foot of good Greek workmanship (sent by Mr. Harris to the British Museum), and part of a group, evidently representing a Roman emperor, probably Trajan, with Dacian captives at his feet. From their place, behind the obelisk and the latter group, it may be supposed that the Casarium extended to this spot; though from the number of public buildings that stood here it is difficult to fix the precise limits of any one. At the end of a mound near the road, between the mosk of St. Atha- nasius and the fort of Napoleon (or, as some call it, Fort Cretin), the ruins of a palace are laid down in the French plan. About the mouth of the canal that runs into the new or eastern harbour are fragments of granite and broken columns, with an appearance of a paved street; and the course of this canal runs in great part through the walls and substructions of brick buildings. Other vestiges of ruins appear to the eastward; and near the coast in that direction, beyond Cape Lochias and the modern Lazzaretto, are some Arab tombs on an eminence or mound, one of which belongs to a Santon, called Shekh Shahtbek. I there observed a broken sarcophagus and fragments of columns; and below, upon the beach, are masses of an old wall, and remains of what seems to have been a bath. There are also some black stones, ap- parently marking the existence of a street or causeway, and several chan- nels for water cut in the rock leading to the sea as well as arched brick- work, an ther remains of buildings. The rock s hewn into the form of rooms and channels in several places hereabouts; and just to the W. of the Port Lochias are ruins at the water's edge; and some way beyond the mouth of the canal are remains of buildings, reservoirs, solid masonry, and broken granite columns. It was here that I found the small statue of Harpgcrates, now in the British Museum. At the first projecting point to the W. of Cape Lochias, the French have laid down, in their plan of Alexandria, a ruined mole, at the next the remains of the palace, and then the Roman tower near the obelisks, already mentioned. 10. SIZE AND IMPORTANCE OF ALEX- ANDRIA. - The circumference of an- cient Alexandria is said by Pliny to have been 15 miles; and we have seen that Strabo gives it a diameter of 30 stadia, or, as Diodorus says, a length of 40 stadia. Its population amounted to more than 300,000 free inhabitants, "besides at least an equal number of slaves;" and its wealth and importance are mentioned by many writers. The epithet "beautiful" is twice applied to it by Athenoeus; and we may judge of its magnificence from the fact that the 89 ROUTE 1.-ALEXANDRIA.--INHABITANTS. Romans themselves considered it in- ferior only to their own capital. Nor were the greatness and flourishing con- dition of Alexandria of short duration ; and even as late as the year 640 A.D., when taken by the Arabs, it was re- markable for its wealth and splendour. " I have taken," says Amer in his letter to the Caliph, "the great city of the West. It is impossible for me to enumerate the variety of its riches and beauty, and I shall content my- self with observing that it contains 4000 palaces, 4000 baths, 400 theatres or places of amusement, 12,000 shops for the sale of vegetables, and 40,000 tributary Jews." The flourishing state of Alexandria, mentioned by Dio qrus, refers to the time of Ptolemy Dionysus, in whose reign he visited Egypt; but it was carried to a much higher point under the Ccesars, and the suburbs alone contained the population of a large city. Everything tended to increase the importance of the place. Commerce was established on a broader basis. The intercourse with Europe was in- creased to an extent unknown under the Ptolemies, and the boundless do- minion of the Romans made it the emporium of the whole world. "In former times," says Strabo, " there were not twenty vessels that ventured to navigate the Red Sea, so as to pass out of the straits; but now there are great fleets that make the voyage to to be placed on tradition, or even on the authority of Arab writers; for credulity revolts at the idea of a human sacrifice in a Chris- tian country so long under the go- vernment of the Romans. The inven- tion of a similar fable discovers the ignorance, as well as the maliciousness, of its authors, who probably lived long after the time of Amer, and who thought to establish the credit of their own nation by misrepresenting the conduct of their enemies. SThe Mooled e' Nebbee, or "birthday of the Prophet " Mohammed, is a fite of rejoicing, and offers many an amus- ing scene. It was first instituted by Sultan Murad the son of Selfm, known to us as Amurath III., in the year 996 of the Hegira, A.D. 1588. It is held in the Uzbekdh in the begin- ning of the month of Rebifh-el-owel, on the return of the pilgrims to Cairo ; and from the booths, swings, and other things erected on the occasion, has rather the appearance of a fair, It continues a whole week, beginning on the 3rd, and ending on the 11th, or the night of the 12th, of the month, the last being always the great day; the previous night having the name of Layleh Mobfirakeh, or "blessed night." On this day the Saaddih derwishes, the modern Psylli, go in procession and perform many juggling tricks with snakes, some of which are truly disgusting; these fanatics frequently tearing them to pieces with their teeth, and assuming all the character of ma- niacs. For the last two years, how- ever, this part of the performance has been omitted, being too gross for the public eye in these days of increasing civilisation; but fanaticism is not wanting to induce them, as well as many bystanders, to degrade them- selves by other acts totally unworthy of rational beings, such as could only be expected amongst ignorant savages; and no European can witness the cere- mony of the Ddseh, which'takes place in the afternoon of the same day, without feelings of horror and disgust. On this occasion the shekh of the Saa- dd~h, mounted on horseback, and ac- companied by the derwishes of various orders, with their banners, goes in procession to the Uzbekeeh, where, between 200 and 300 fanatics having thrown themselves prostrate on the ground, closely wedged together, the shekh rides over their bodies, the assembled crowd frequently contending with each other to obtain one of these degrading posts, and giving proofs of wild fanaticism which those who have not witnessed- it cannot easily imagine. A grand ceremony is also performed in the evening at the house of their president, the Shekh el Bekree, the reputed descendant of Aboo Bekr e' Saadieh. The Mooled el Hassanin, the birth- day of the "two Hassans" (Hassan and TIossayn), the sons of Ali, is cele- brated for 8 days about the 12th of Rebeeh-'l-akher, and is considered the greatest fe te in Cairo, being that of the patron saints of the city. The people go in crowds to visit their tomb, where grand Zikrs are performed in their honour; the mosk being bril- liantly illuminated, as well as the 13i7 airo . quarters in the immediate neighbour- in the boy's hand is similar to the oil hood; while the people indulge in the said to have been employed for the usual amusements of Eastern fairs, same purpose by the Greeks, according The fftes of Saydeh Zoyneb, the to the Scholiast on Aristophanes. grand-daughter of the Prophet, and I now proceed to show as briefly as other male and female shekhs of possible what are the claims of the Cairo, are kept much in the same way, modern magician in rivalling those of by illuminating their respective mosks; old. but are much less worth seeing than On going to see him I was deter- the ordinary evening occupations of mined to examine the matter with the Moslems during the whole month minute attention, at the same time of Ramadan, which, to a person under- that I divested myself of every pre- standing the language; offer many vious bias, either for or against his attractions. The bazaars are then pretended powers. A party haviing lighted up, and crowds of people sit at been made up to witness the exhibition, the shops, enjoying themselves after we met, according to previous agree- the cruel fast of the day, by conversa- ment, at Mr. Lewis's house on Wednes- tion, and by listening to story-tellers, day evening, the 8th of December. who, with much animation, read or The magician was ushered in, and, relate the tales of the Thousand-and- having taken his place, we all sat down, one Nights, or other of the numerous some before him, others by his side. stories for which the Arabs have been The party consisted of Colonel Barnet always famed, our consul-general, Chevalier Krehmer the Russian consul-general, Mr. Lewis, b b. THE MAGICIAN. Dr. Abbot, Mr. Samuel, Mr. Christian, M. Prisse, with another French gentle- One of the first lions which the tra- man, and myself ; four of whom under- yeller inquires after, on arriving at stood Arabic very well, so that we had Cairo, is the magician, who has become no need of an interpreter. noted for certain performances through The magician, after entering into a supposed supernatural power, by conversation with many of us on in- which figures are made to appear to different subjects, and discussing two children; and the persons of those who or three pipes, prepared for the per- have been called for by the bystanders formance. He first of all requested have been sometimes described so accu- that a brazier of live charcoal might be rately as to lead to the belief that his brought, and in the mean while occu- pretensions were not unfounded. pied himself in writing upon a long Mr. Lane has given a full account of slip of paper five sentences of two lines what he does, or pretends to do; for each, then two others, one of a single this I refer to his work, and I proceed line, and the other of two, as an invo- to describe the performance of the same cation to the spirits. Every sentence person, Shekh abd el Kader, as wit- began with Tuyurshoon, and they were nessed by me in 1841, with the obser- very similar to those given in Mr. vations I have been led to make on the Lane's book :- occasion. These I submit to the judg- " m ment of the reader; and above all of ) y ?. the traveller who sees him, and has "&e. sufficient knowledge of Arabic to be in- Each was separated from the one above 'dependent of an interpreter. A belief and below it by a line, to direct him in the power of calling up the dead, or in tearing them apart. exhibiting appearances of absent per- A boy was then called, who was sons, has been long current in the East. ordered to sit down before the magi- The manner of doing this calls to mind clan. He did so, and the magician, the invocation of the Witch of Endor, having asked for some ink from Mr. when Samuel was made to appear at Lewis, traced with a pen on the palm the request of Saul; and the use of ink of his right 138 Sect. II. a a. b b. CAIRO-THE MAGICIAN. THE MAGICIAN. hand a double square, containing the nine numbers in this order, or in English- making 15 each way; the centre one 9 2 being 5,- the evil num- s ber. This I remarked to 3 7 the magician, but lie made no reply. A brazier was brought and placed between the magician and the boy, who was ordered to look sted- fastlyinto the ink and report whatever he should see. I begged the magician to speak slowly enough to give me time to write down every word, which he promised to do, without being dis- pleased at the request; nor had he objected, during the preliminary" part of the performance; to my attempt to sketch him as he sat. He now began an incantation, call- ing on the spirits by the power of "our Lord Soolayman," &c., with the words tuyurshoon and hadderoo (be present), frequently repeated. He then muttered words to himself, and, tearing apart the different sentences he had written, he put them one after the other into the fire together with some frankincense. This done, he asked the boy if anybody had come.- --Boy. "Yes, many." - MAGICIAN. "Tell them to sweep."-B. "Sweep." -M. "Tell them to bring the flags." -B. "Bring the flags."-M. "Have they brought any? "- B. "Yes."-M. " Of what colour ?" -,B. " Green."- MI. "Say. Bring another."-B. "Bring another.'- M. "Has it come?"-B. "Yes, a green one." - lM. " Ano- ther." -B. " Another."- M. "Is it brought? "-B. "Yes; another green one - they are all green." - M. ' What now? "- B. "Another; half white, half red."--M. "Bring ano- ther." - B. "Bring another." - .I. " Heh ? " - B. "He has brought a black one; all black." - M. "An- other." - B. "Another; here it is; there are five." - M. " Another." - B. "Bring another; here it is, all white." - NI. "Bring one more." - -B. "Bring one more."-M. "Well." -B. "He has brought one more, green." - M.. "Bring the Sultan's tent." - B. "They have brought it, but have not yet put it up." - M. "Order them to pitch it and lay down diwans." - B. "They have put it up, and have brought diwans; here comes the sultan on a black horse, and he alights and sits on the throne."- Finding the boy was very ready with his answers, I said to him, "Have I not seen you perform before ?" He said, "Yes, I have done it before often."- M. "What do you see now? "- B. "He is washing his hands."-M. " Is a soldier before him ?" - B. "Yes." -M. "Have they brought coffee?"- B. "They have; and he drinks-put me some more ink." This being done, the magician asked who would call for some one. Mr. Lewis called for his father by name. -M. "Say to the chowish, ' Ohowish, bring Frederick Lewis before me, that I may see him.' Well !"-B. "Here he is, dressed in black, short and fat, of a white colour, with no beard, but mustaches, wearing a tarboosh and red shoes." The description of this person was as unlike as the last part to a European dress. The magician, on being told this, said "Let him go." The boy repeated this order, and said, "I tell the truth as he appears." I suggested that the magician, hav- ing once caused Shakspeare to be so well described, ought to have the same power of doing it again with a different boy, and I asked for him. -M. "Say, Chowish, bring Shak- speare." - B. " Bring Shakspeare." -M. "Is he come?"-B. "Yes; he is short, fat, dressed in black, with 139 airo. CAIRO.--THE MAGICIAN. a child standing by him; he has a beard." Somebody asked if he had anything round his neck. B. "Yes; a handkerchief, red. He has a black beard, no mustaches, a black high hat." Some one asked if it was like a com- mon hat. B. "A hat with a band round it; he wears red shoes, has nothing in his hand, Arab trowsers, and a nizdm dress, and a black nizcdm coat, with a red shawl round his waist, a stick in his hand, many people near him, and a little boy'dressed in white, an Arab dress, tarboosh, and red shoes."-M. " Let him go-is he gone ?" -B. "Yes." Lord Anglesey was then called for. The boy described him as "an Englishman, tall, in a Frank dress of a black colour, with a white hand- kerchief round his neck, wearing black boots and white stockings, light or yellow hair, blue eyes, no beard, no mustaches, but whiskers; with black gloves on his hands, and a low flat black hat." He was then asked how he walked. M. "Tell him to walk."- B. "He stretches out his leg far, and puts his hands to his sides in his trowsers pockets." Some one asked if he stepped out equally with both legs ? and the boy replied, " He puts them out both equally." He was then sent away, and ano- ther boy was brought, who had never before seen the magician, having been chosen with another by Mr. Lewis on purpose. The ink being put into his hand, he was asked if he saw the re- fledtion of his face; and having an- swered in the affirmative, he was told to say when he saw anything; but after many incantations, incense, and long delay, he could see nothing, and fell asleep over the ink. The other boy was then called in, but he, like the last, could not be made to see anything; and a fourth was brought, who had evidently often acted his part before. He first saw a sha- dow, and was ordered to "tell him to sweep;" and after the flags and the sultan as usual, some one suggested that Lord Fitzroy Somerset should be called for. He was described in a white Frank dress, a long (high) white hat, black stockings, and white gloves, tall, and standing before him with black boots. I asked how he could see his stockings with boots? The boy an- swered "Under his trowsers." He continued, "His eyes are white, no mustaches, no beard, but little whis- kers, and yellow (light) hair; he is thin, thin legs, thin arms; in his left hand he holds a stick, and in the other a pipe; he has a black handkerchief round his neck, his throat buttoned up; his trowsers are long; he wears green spectacles." The magician, seeing some of the party smiling at the description and its inaccuracy, said to the boy, "IDon't tell lies, boy." To which he answered, "I do not, why should I ?"-M. "Tell him to go."-B. " Go." Queen Victoria was next called for, who was described as short, dressed in black trowsers, a white hat, black shoes, white gloves, red coat with red lining, and black waistcoat, with whis- kers, but no beard nor mustaches, and holding in his hand a glass tumbler. He was asked if the person was a man or a woman ? he answered, "a man." We told the magician it was our queen I He said, "I do not know why they should say what is false; I knew she was a woman, but the boys describe as they see." From the manner in which the questions are put, it is very evident that, when a boy is persuaded to see anything, the appearances of the sweeper, the flags, and the sultan, are the result of leading questions. The boy pretends or imagines he sees a man or a shadow, and he is told to order some one to sweep: he is there- fore prepared with his answer; and the same continues to the end, the magi- cian always telling him what he is to call for, and consequently what he is to see. The descriptions of persons asked for are almost universally com- plete failures, and the exceptions may, I think, be explained in this manner. A person with one arm is called for, as Lord Nelson; while described, questions are put by those present as to this or that peculiarity, and the mere question, " Has he one or two 140 Sect. II. b b. INTERNAL ADMINISTRATION. arms ?" will suffice to prompt a boy of any quickness to say, "No, I see he has only one; and when asked which he has lost, he must be right, as the magician has the wit, if wrong, to say "he sees him as in a mirror;' and the same unintentional hints, aided sometimes by an interpreter, have, doubtless, led to the few striking de- scriptions which have been given. Indeed, though every one had agreed to avoid anything which might lead the boys to their answers, on the occa- sion above mentioned at Mr. Lewis's, this question was inadvertently asked, "Does Lord Anglesey step out equally with both legs ?" which, had the boy been sufficiently quick, would have led to a description that might have been cited in favour of the power of the magician. It is also very evident that the boy describing an European with trowsers, boots, and stockings, was not telling what he saw, but what he was thinking of, and putting to- gether as the description of a Frank dress; for he could not, of course, see the stockings, concealed, as they would be, by trowsers and boots. I am decidedly of opinion that the whole of the first part is done solely by leading questions, and that, when- ever the descriptions succeed in any point, the success is owing to accident, or to unintentionel prompting in the mode of questioning the boys. That the boys are frequently sent before- hand by the magician to wait near the house has also been discovered; but in cases where European and other boys, "who have never seen him, are brought, the same leading questions will an- swer, if the boys can be induced by their imagination to fancy they see anything. Indeed, this 'imagination has been sometimes so worked upon as to alarm them for many days and weeks afterwards, and we have no need Of Egyptian magicians to induce credu- lity, or to work upon the fears of young (or groun up) children. With regard to those who have learnt of the magi- cian, if they really believe that with such questions they have any power over the boy, independent of his ima- gination, or that they can do more than amuse the assembled party, I leave them to explain the matter themselves. I must, however, observe that the ex- planation lately offered, that Osman Effendi was in collusion with the magician, is neither fair on him, nor satisfactory, as he was not present when those cases occurred which were made so much of in Europe; while for my own part I see no difficulty in ac- counting for it in the manner above mentioned. C C. INSTITUTIONS OF MOHAMMED ALI. It is unnecessary here to notice the various institutions established in the country by Mohammed Ali, as few or none of them now remain. Many of his manufactories were certainly un- necessary, and out of place in an agri- cultural country with a reduced popu- lation; but the schools, hospitals, and some other establishments were highly beneficial to the people, and have been very unwisely abandoned by his sue cessors. d d. INTERNAL ADMINISTRATION, POLICE, AND COURTS OF JUSTICE. Matters relating to the internal ad- ministration of the country and of the city are settled by the diwdns estab- lished at the citadel. Each is super- intended by a president. Police cases are decided by the chief of the police, at his office near the Frank quarter. Europeans are only amenable to their consuls, and cannot be punished by Turkish law. In disputed cases be- tween them and natives, a mixed com- mission is sometimes appointed to decide the matter, by mutual agree- ment of the parties. Questions of property, family dis- putes, and all cases that come under the head of lawsuits, are settled at the Mahkemeh, or Cadi's Court. e e. THE IIAHKEMEH, OR CADI'S COURT. This mighty court, looked upon with fear and respect by some, and contempt and disgust by others, occu- Cairo. 141 CAIRO.-CADIS COURT. pies a portion of the old palace of the Sultans, which succeeded to one of the ILasrafn or "two palaces," built by Goher el Kad, the founder of Cairo; and close to it is a fine vaulted chamber, one part of the abode of Saladin. This last, as well as its ad- joining companion, is now a ruin, and occupied by mills; its large pointed arches have lost all their ornaments except the Arabic inscriptions at the projection of their horseshoe base; and the devices of its once richly- gilded ceiling can scarcely be distin- guished. At the end is a lofty mahrab, or arabesque niche for prayer, similar to those in the mosks, which are some- times admitted into large houses for the same purpose. This chamber has now been destroyed, or enclosed, and can no longer be seen. The crowded state of the Mahkemeh sufficiently shows how fond the Cairenes are of litigation, every petty grievance or family quarrel being referred to the Cadi's Court. Cases of a very serious nature are settled by the Cadi himself; others of more ordinary occurrence, but still of due importance to the parties, are decided by .his efendee, and confirmed by the seal of the Cadi (Kddee); and those of little weight are often arranged by the kdtebs (kodtuba), clerks or scribes, without any application to either. The personages who hold office here are the Cadi, his effendee, his kehia, the bash-kiteb or "head scribe," and the kodtuba or clerks. The minor officers are roossul or messengers, the kehia's dragoman (called el mdhdur), the mehendes or architect, and the kosh6f for the inspection of houses. There are also scribes who enter cases into the defter or sigil of the record- office. The bayt el mal, or "property- house,"' is a separate court for all pro- perty left without an heir, and may be called the Court of Chancery. The Cadi is appointed by the Sultan, and is sent from Constantinople. It is bad enough in any country to be occupied in lawsuits; but nowhere does a poor man find so much diffi- culty in obtaining justice as in Egypt. He is not only put off from day to day, but 'obliged to run from one per- son to another, to no purpose, for days, weeks, or months; and unless he can manage to collect sufficient to bribe the bash-kdteb, and other employds of the court, he may hope in vain to obtain justice, or even attention to his complaints. The fees of the Cadi are four-fifths of all that is paid for cases at the court, the remaining fifth going to the bash-kiteb and other scribes under him. The division is made every Thursday. When a case is brought up for de- cision, the documents relating to it, after having passed through the hands of a scribe, are examined by the effendee, and, being settled by him, the kehia decides on and demands the fee. This he does whether sealed by the Cadi, or only by his effendee. Minor cases, as disputes between husband and wife, if they cannot be reconciled below in the hall by the advice of a kdteb, are taken up to the effendee. When settled in the hall, a small fee is demanded for the chari- table intervention of the scribe; which is his perquisite, for not troubling his superiors with a small case. Deci- sions respecting murder, robbery, the property of rich individuals, and other important matters, are pronounced by the Cadi himself. In cases of murder, or wounding or maiming, if the friends of the deceased or the injured party consent to an adjust- ment, certain fines are paid by way of requital. These are fixed by law, regulated, however, by the quality of the persons. Ransom for murder (deeh el Kuteel) is rated at 50 purses (about 2501.); an eye put out in an affray, half that de'fh; a tooth one tenth, and so on. The most efficient recipe for stimu- lating the torpid temperament of the Mahkemeh is bribery; and the persons to whom bribes are administered with singularly good effect are the bash- kateb and the other scribes. And so impatient are they of neglect in this particular, that the moment they think some of these attentions to Mahkemeh etiquette ought to show themselves, 142 Sect. II. e e. OLD CAIRO. they begin to put forth every difficulty as a delicate hint. Whenever the simple-minded applicant, trusting to the evident justice of his cause, ap- pears before them, they are far too much occupied with other papers of long standing to attend to him: a particular person, whose presence is absolutely required, is not to be found; or some official excuse is invented to check the arrangement of the business ; and he is put off from day to day with a chance of success. On the appear- ance of these marked symptoms, a douceur should, in doctorial language, be immediately exhibited in a suffi- ciently large dose to allay the irrita- tion; and it is surprising to observe how the gladdened face of the man-of- law expands on taking the. welcome potion. It is of course a matter that passes in secret between the donor and the receiver; for, though notorious, secrecy is required for the acceptance of a bribe unshared by the Cadi or his effendee; and the Cadi himself is never propitiated with a similar offer- ing unless the case is very serious, and requires that touching appeal to his feelings. ExcuRsion 1.-a. OLD CAIRO. Old Cairo, or Musr el Atel.keh, is a ride of about 3 miles from Cairo. It was originally called Fostat. It was founded by Amer ebn el As, who conquered Egypt in the caliphate of Omar, A.D. 638; and is said to have received its name from the leather tent (fostia) which Amer there pitched for himself, during the siege of the Roman fortress. In the same spot he erected the mosk that still bears his name, which in after times stood in the centre of the city, and is now amid t the mourids and rubbish of its fallen houses. Fostt continued to be the royal residence, as well as the capital of Egypt, until the time of Ahmed ebn e' Tooldon, who built the mosk and palace at the KIlat el Kebsh, A.D. 879. Goher el Kid, having been sent by Mo6z to conquer Egypt, founded the new city called Musr el Kgherah (Cairo), which four years after (in A.D. 974) became the capital of the country, and Fostat received the new appellation of Musr el Atielkeh or "Old Musr," corrupted by Europeans into Old Cairo. The ancient name of the city which occupied part of the site of Old Cairo was Egyptian Babylon; and the Roman station, which lies to the S. of the mosk of Amer, is evidently the fortress be- sieged by the Moslem invader. The style of its masonry has the peculiar character of Roman buildings; which is readily distinguished by the courses of red tiles or bricks, and the con- struction of its arches : and over the main entrance on the S. side (which is now closed and nearly buried in rub- bish) is a triangular pediment, under whole left-hand corner may still be seen the Roman eagle. Above ap- pears to have been a slab, probably bearing an inscription, long since fallen or removed. Its solid walls and strong round towers sufficiently testify its former strength, and account for its having defied the attacks of the Arab invaders for 7 months; and it is doubt- less to this that Aboolfeda alludes when he says, " In the spot where Fostat was built stood a Kasr, erected in old times, and styled Kasr e' Shemma (' of the candle '), and the tent (fostit) of Amer was close to the mosk called Jimat Amer." This for- tress now contains a village of Chris- tian inhabitants, and is dedicated to St. George, the patron saint of the Copts. In an upper chamber, over the W. tower of the old gateway above men- tioned, is an early Christian record, sculptured on wood, of the time of Diocletian, curious as well from its style as from the state of its preserva- tion. The upper part, or frieze, has a Greek inscription; and below it, at the centre of the architrave, is a re- presentation of the Deity, sitting in a globe, supported by two winged an- gels; on either side of which is a pro- cession of 6 figures, evidently the 12 apostles. The central group readily calls to mind the winged globe of the ancient Egyptians; and its position Cairo. i48 144 CAIRO.-E-XCURSION 1, a. Sect. II. over a doorway accords with the ordi- borrow tombs from the monks of Old nary place of that well-known emblem. Cairo. Indeed, this is not the only instance of Two other convents stand to the the adoption of old devices by the N.; one between this and the mosk early Egyptian Christians; the tau, of Amer, which is occupied by Ca- or sign of life, was commonly used tholic Armenians and Syrian Maro- to head their inscriptions, instead of nites; the other to the N. of the mosk, the cross; and it is not improbable Delonging to the Copts. that the disc or globe of the gods [The churches of Old Cairo are of gave rise to the glory over the heads great interest and antiquity; the ar- of saints, who were frequently painted rangement of the Coptic churches re- on a coat of stucco, that alone separated sembles that of the Greek, and the them from the deities to whose temples service appears not very dissimilar. they succeeded. Nor were the Chris- The baptistery is usually a small dark tians of Egypt singular in the admis- side apartment, with a font sunk in sion of emblems borrowed from their the floor, being more convenient where Pagan predecessors; another religion, it is the custom to immerse and not to equally averse to the superstitions of sprinkle. There is also at the W. of antiquity, has been unable to prevent the nave a large well for Epiphany their adoption, even at a much later immersions. During an interview I period; and the serpent of Shekh had with the patriarch of Alexandria, Hereedee still claims the respect, if I pointed out the 1st Epistle of St. not the worship, of the Egyptian Mos- Peter as dated from Babylon, and bear- lem. We may, therefore, readily be- ing the salutation of St. Mark; and ob- lieve that in the time of Origen it was serving that S. Mark was the first rare to meet with an Egyptian who patriarch of Alexandria, I inquired had surmounted his early prejudices whether the Coptic Church held that in favour of the sacred animals of his the Epistle in question was written country. from Egypt; but the question was new BesidN the Coptic community, is to the patriarch, his bishops, and col- a Greek convent, within the precincts lege; and after sending for a Bible and of this ancient fortress, and numerous discussing the passage in full conclave Moslems have opened shops in its for twenty minutes, - the only an- narrow streets, living in perfect har- swer I received was, that, if St. Peter mony with their religious adversaries, ever was in Egypt, the Epistle was Among other objects shown by the probably written from Old Cairo; but priests of the Greek convent is the there was no tradition in the Coptic chamber of the Virgin, the traditions Church that St. Peter ever had been in concerning which are treated by the Egypt.-A.C.S.] credulous with the same pious feel- Strabo mentions the station or for- ings as the tree and fountain of Helio- tress at Babylon, "in which one of polis. Here it was, in the garden of the three Roman legions was quar- the Greek convent, that those English tered, which formed the garrison of who died in Cairo were permitted to Egypt." This Babylon he describes be buried; their tombs being hired, as a castle fortified by nature, founded rather than bought, from the priests; by some Babylonians, who, having who, finding that more money and left their country, obtained from the room were to be obtained by remov- Egyptian kings a dwelling-place in ing the bones, were not long in pre- this spot. His statement, however, paring the same spots for other oc- of its being fortified by nature, scarcely cupants. There is reason therefore agrees with the Kasr e' Shemma, un- to rejoice that a subscription for an less (which is very possible) the English burial-ground is now opened; mounds of rubbish have raised the soil and though donations are much about it, and concealed its once ele- wanted, we may hope that in a short vated base; though the ridge of hill time it will no longer be necessary to it occupied by the river, where hy- OLD CAImO. draulic machines raised the Nile water for its supply, seems to accord with the description of its site given by Arab writers, who state that when taken by the Saracens the river flowed near its walls. At all events, it is evidently a Roman station, and pro- bably the very one that existed in the days of the geographer, judging both from its style of building, and from the little likelihood of their forsaking a place "fortified by nature " for an- other; and no vestiges of any other Roman ruin are to be met with in the neighbourhood. These Babylonians, according to Diodorus, were descendants of cap- tives taken by Sesostris: some sup- pose them to have been left by Se- miramis in Egypt; and others say the town was not founded until the time of Cambyses. Some, again, pre- tend that the fort was first built by Artaxerxes, . while Egypt was in the possession of the Persians. Strabo asserts that these Babylonians wor- shipped the Cynocephalus, which throws great doubt upon his assertion of the town having been founded by foreigners, and would rather lead to the conclusion that it was Egyptian; for it is more probable that those strangers were allowed to live there, as the Franks now are in a quarter of a Turkish city, than that they were presented by the kings with a strong position for the erection of a fortress. The mosk of Amer is of square form, as were all the early mosks, ex- cept those which had been originally churches;* and it is somewhat similar in plan to the mosk of Taylodn, with colonnades round an open court. At the W. end is a single line of columns; at the two sides they are three deep, and at the E. end in six rows, the total amounting to no less than 229 or 2:0, two being covered with inasonty. Others are also built into the outer wall to support the dikkeh or platform of the m~dddin; and the octagon in the centre of the open court is surrounded by 8 columns. Many have fallen down, and time and neglect will soon cause This never was a church, as some have imagined. [ Egypt the destruction of the whole building. It has 3 doors on the E. side, over the southernmost of which is a minaret, and another at the S.E. corner. At that early time the Arabs were contented with humble imitations of Roman architecture, or with build- ings erected for them by Christian architects, which appears to have been the case in this instance; and the style of the arches and other portions of the exterior wall is the same as that found in contemporary Christian edifices. The general form of the arches is round, alternating with others of the pent-roof head; but on the S. side some of the large lower arches are pointed, though apparently of the same age as the round ones above and adjoining them. Indeed it may be doubted if the Arabs in the time of the conquest of Egypt had made suffi- cient progress in architecture to build a mosk of the size and character of this of Amer; though they added to the interior in after times. Its present arches, on columns, which are built against the simpler arches of the original outer wall, are evidently of the style common in the time of El Moafud, about 1412 A.D., when repairs are said to have been made to the mosk. Nor have we here the only instance of the pointed arch at that early period; and the Christian remains of Upper Egypt afford several examples of its employment, to cover small spaces, before the Arabs invaded the country. The mosk has undergone several repairs, and in Murad Bey's time, who was one of its restorers, some Cufic MSS. were discovered, while excavating the substructions, written on the finest parchment. The origin of their discovery, and the cause of these repairs, are thus related by M. Marcel: "Murad Bey, being destitute of the means of carrying on the war against his rival Ibrahim, sought to replenish his coffers by levying a large sum from the Jews of Cairo. To es- cape from his exactions, they had re- course to stratagem. After assuring him they had not a single para, they promised, on condition of abstaining from his demands, to reveal a secret H Cairo. 145 OAIRO.--EXCURSION 1, b. which would make him possessor of immense wealth. His word was given, and they assured him that certain archives mentioned a large iron chest, deposited in the mosk of Amer, either by its founder or by one of his suc- cessors in the government of Egypt, which was filled with invaluable treasure. Murad Bey went immedi- ately to the mosk, and, under the plea of repairs, excavated the spot indi- cated by his informants, where, in fact, he found a secret underground chamber, containing an iron chest, half destroyed by rust, and full-not of gold - but of manuscript leaves of the Koran, on vellum of a beau- tiful quality, written in fine Cufice characters." This treasure was not one to satisfy the cupidity of the Merm- look Bey, and it was left to the shekh of the mosk, by whom it was sold to different individuals. Tradition has not been idle here; and the credulous believe that an an- cient prophecy foretells the downfall of Moslem power whenever this mosk shall fall to decay; and two columns placed 10 inches apart, near the south- ernmost door, are said to discover the faith of him who tries to pass between them, no one but a true be- liever in the Koran and the Prophet being supposed to succeed in the at- tempt. When all but Moslems were excluded from the mosks, the truth of this was of course never called in ques- tion; and now that the profane are admitted, the desecration of the build: ing is readily believed to cause the failure of the charm. b. NILOMETER AND ISLAND OF RODA. In the island of Roda, opposite Old Cairo, is the Me.kkeeds or Nilometer. It consists of a square well or cham- ber, in the centre of which is a gradu- ated pillar, for the purposes of ascer- taining the daily rise of the Nile. This is proclaimed every morning in the streets of the capital, during the inundation, by four criers, to each of whom a particular portion of the city is assigned. The Mekkeeds was formerly sur- mounted by a dome, which is said to have borne a Cufic inscription, and a date answering to 848 of our era. Its erection is attributed to the Caliph Mamdon, who reigned from 813 to 833; but if the above date be correct, it is probable that the dome was not added until the time of El Mota- wuk'kel-al-Allah, his third successor, who ruled from 847 to 861. In the year of the Hegira 245 (A.D. 860) this Motawuk'kel, tenth caliph of the Abbaside dynasty, is said to have made a new Nilometer in the Isle of Roda, which some suppose to be the one used at the present day; and this account seems to be confirmed by the date above mentioned. It afterwards un- derwent some repairs in the time of Mostunser Billh, the fifth of the Fate- mite princes of Egypt, A.D. 1092. But the first who built a Nilometer at Roda was Soolayman, seventh caliph of the Ommiade dynasty, who reigned from A.D. 714 to 717; and this was afterwards replaced by the more per- fect work of his successors. Round the upper part of the cham- ber is a Cufic inscription, of an ancient character, but without a date; in the vain hope of ascertaining which I re- moved the upper part of the staircase in 1832. It contains passages from the Koran, relating to the "water sent by God from heaven," which show the received opinion of the causes of the inundation, first alluded to by Homer in the expression AL'rE-eos 7o'rapoLo applied to the Nile, and occa- sionally discarded and re-admitted by succeeding authors till a very late period. The inscription, however, is not without its interest for architec- tural inquiry, though devoid of a date; since the style of the Cufic is evidently of an early period, corresponding to that used at the time of its reputed erection, the middle of the 9th cen- tury; and as the arches are all pointed, we have here another proof of the early use of that form of arch in Sara- cenic buildings. The dome has long since ceased to exist, having been thrown down by accident, and its fallen blocks still encumber the chamber or well, at the 146 Sect. II. NILOMETER base of the graduated column. It is this irregular mass that prevents our ascertaining the exact height of the column; and besides at the.low Nile, when th'e Nilometer is said to be cleared out, a great quantity of the alluvial deposit is always left at its base, to the depth, as is reported, of about 5 feet. Much difficulty has arisen from the various accounts given of the rise of the inundation. In the time of Meeris, according to Herodotus, 8 cubits sufficed for the irrigation of the land of Egypt; and 900 years afterwards, in the time of the historian, 15 or 16, which would give between 7 and 8 cubits for the increase of the height of the land during that period. But as this is impossible, we must either con- clude that he has confounded the measures of different parts of Egypt, or that in one case the rise is calcu- lated from the surface, and in the other fi'om the bed of the river. Sixteen cubits were marked for the rise of the Nile, on the statue of that deity at Rome, which implies no alteration since the days of Herodotus, so that it is probable that the average rise of the river remained the same : and this is further testified by the fact that, in the fourth century, 15 cubits were recorded by the Emperor Justinian as the height of the inundation. In 1720, 16 cubits were again cited as the requisite height for irrigating the land, and the people were then said to make rejoicings, and to consider the wuffa Allah, or "promise of God," to be ful- filled. Pliny also allows 16 for an abundant harvest, and Plutarch gives 14 as the least rise capable of pro- ducing benefit to the country about Memphis, 20 at Elephantine, and 6 at Xois and Mendes. It is calculated that the pillar of the Makkeeas contains 24 cubits, a number which implies completion, and which may be purely ideal, not being affixed to the scale marked upon it. And as each of these divi- sions or cubits consists of 24 digits or 6 palms, and is 21 inches long, it is exceedingly improbable that so slender a column should exceed the height of 16 cubits, which would be about 18 diameters. Pococke is of the same opinion. He supposes "there could not be above 5 or 6 peeks (cubits) below the 11 he saw above water" in 1738; though one writer gives 36 feet 8 inches for the height of the column; and says the column is divided into 20 peeks of 22 inches each. By his account the two lowermost peeks are not divided at all, but are without mark, to stand for the quantity of sludge deposited there, which occupies the place of water: 2 peeks are then divided on the right hand into 24 digits each; then on the left 4 peeks, each into 24 digits; then on the right 4; and on the left 4 again; and again 4 on the right, which complete the number of 18 peeks from the first division marked on the pillar; the whole, marked and unmarked, amount- ing to 36 feet 8 inches. It is perhaps seldom that travellers are in Cairo at the beginning of June or the end of May; but if so, it would be worth while to ascertain the exact height of the column at that time, when the water is at its lowest. Since writing the above I have seen Mr. Coste's architectural views and plans of the buildings of Cairo, from which it appears that the column has, as I supposed, only 16 cubits from the base to the capital. The cubit he reckons at 541- millimetres, and the cubit of Cairo being equal to 361 millimetres, 24 of the latter are equal to the 16 of the column. The 'De- scription de l'Egypte' gives the same number of 16 cubits above the pedes- tal. The 6 lowest are separated by a line, but not divided into digits, like the remaining 10 at the top of the column. Some have stated that the cubits are of different lengths, but this is not the case; though it is certain that no accurate calculation can be obtained from a column which has been broken and repaired in such a manner that one of the cubits remains incomplete; and it is evident that the number of cubits of the river's rise, as calculated at the time of its erection, must differ much from that marked by it at the u 2 Cairo. 147 present day; the elevation of the bed Savary; and such theories are corn- of the Nile having altered the relative pletely overthrown by the actual rise proportion of the rise of the water, of the Nile over a plain raised about which now passes about one cubit and 7 ft. in the last 1700 years. And two-thirds above the highest part of every one will perceive that this per- the column. pendicular height of 7 ft. must carry According to the Cairenes, the Nile the water in a horizontal direction to is supposed to have risen 18 cubits a considerable distance E. and W. when the canals are cut, which is over the once uncultivated and un- called Wuffa el Bahr. After this the watered slope of the desert. In answer criers call 2 from 18, to 23 from 18, to the assertion of the learned Larcher, then 19, and so on; but no one be- that "the soil of Egypt is not higher lieves they state the rise of the river now than in the time of Herodotus," correctly. The lowest inundation is I refer the traveller to the statues of reckoned at 18 ; 19 is tolerable (me- Amenoph at Thebes. The fact is, the ndseb), 20 good, 21 sufficient, 22 fills soil and the bed of the Nile have both every canal, and is termed perfect risen, and in the same proportion. (temdm), but 24 would overwhelm Diodorus would seem to affirm that everything, and do great injury to the the first Nilometer in the time of the country. Pharaonic kings was erected at Mem- It appears that the discordant ac- phis, which is repeated by Arab his- counts of the rise of the river and of torians. Herodotus speaks of the the Nilometer are owing to the base measurement of the river's rise under or standard level, from which the in- Moeris, and at the period he visited undation is measured, having varied Egypt: a Nilometer is mentioned at at different times, or to their not Eileithyias, of the time of the Ptole- having taken into consideration the mies: that of Elephantine is described elevation of the bed of the river ; and by Strabo; and from the inscriptions we may conclude that the water now remaining there we know it to have rises exactly to the same proportionate been used in the reigns of the early level as formerly, and will continue Roman emperors. A moveable Nilo- to do so for ages to come. M. Savary, meter was preserved till the time of Mi. Dolomieu, and other savans, have Constantine in the temple of Serapis long since announced the miseries at Alexandria, and was then trans- that await Egypt from the accumu- ferred to a church in that city, where lating deposit of the Nile, and the it remained until restored to the Sara- codsequent rise of the soil. M. Dolo- peum by Julian. Theodosius after- mieu has decided that, owing to the wards removed it again, when that decomposition of the granite moun- building was destroyed by his order. tains, by whose summits the clouds The first Nilometer built in Egypt are retained which pour down the after the Arab conquest is ascribed torrents that supply the Nile, the rise to Abd el Azeiz, brother of the Caliph of this river has already diminished : Abd el Melek, erected at Helwian about MI. Savary states that the villages of the year 700; but being found not to the Delta no longer present the ap- answer there, a new one was made by pearance of islands in the sea, as Soolayman, son of that prince, in the Herodotus had observed in his time: Isle of Roda. Mamoon built another and M. Larcher concludes that if the at the village of Benbenooda, in the soil has risen the water must cover Saeed, and repaired an ancient one at a less extent of land. MI. Dolomieu Ekhmim. These are perhaps the oldest only views the subject in one light; constructed by the Arab kings, though and M. Savary's notion is only founded Kalkasendas pretends that Omar has a on the fact that he never saw the prior claim to this honour. Delta as Herodotus describes it. But Close to the IMekl~.ees is a powder- many travellers at the present day magazine, which some years ago acci- have been more fortunate than I. dentally blew up, and nearly destroyed 148 CAIRO.----rmURION 1, b. Sect;. II. COLLEGE OF DERWISHES. all that remained of the Nilometer; in consequence of which an order is always required for the admission of strangers. In the same island is the garden of Ibrahim Pasha, commenced about 27 years ago by Mr. Trail, an English gardener and botanist, sent out to Egypt by the Horticultural -Society; and though the inundations of 1840 and 1841 destroyed some thousand trees, mostly of India and other foreign countries, it continued in a very flourishing condition until his death. Roda was formerly the favourite resort of the Cairenes, who went to enjoy the cool shades of this pretty island; and in 1822 I accompanied a party to this spot, who seemed to have very pleasing recollections of former visits. But the days of similar ex- cursions are past for the people of Cairo; and present cares and constant anxiety for the morrow are now sub- stituted in lieu of occasional relax- ation. It is here that Arab tradition fixes the finding of Moses by the daughter of Pharaoh, whose name, Josephus tells us, was Thermuthis. In the time of the latter princes of the Greek empire, Roda was joined to the main land by a bridge of boats, for the purpose of keeping up a direct communication between Babylon and Memphis, which still existed at the period of the Arab invasion under Amer; and at a later period the island was fortified by the Baharite Memlooks with a wall and towers of brick, some of which still remain. Geezeh, on the opposite or western bank, was also a fortified post of the Memlooks. c. KASR EL AINEE, AND COLLEGE OF P)ERWISHES. Close to Old Cairo stands the aque- duct already mentioned. On return- ing thence to Cairo you pass by the Kasr el Ainee, once a college or school established by Mohammed Ali, and the Kasr or palace of Ibrahim Pasha; the neighbourhood of which has been greatly improved within the last 20 years, by the planting of trees, the removal of mounds of rubbish, and the formation of roads by which it is approached. Near Kasr el Ainee is the college of derwishes mentioned by Pococke. The derwishes are both the monks and the freemasons of the East. They profess great sanctity and a scrupulous observance of religious duties, but without looking down upon other re- ligions, or reviling those who are of a different creed, in which they may be said to follow these injunctions of the Koran : "We have prescribed to each people their sacred rites. Let them observe them, and not wrangle with thee concerning this matter. . . . If they dispute with thee, say, ' God knoweth your actions; God will judge between you.'" They are di- vided into innumerable sects or orders, the principal and original of which are the twelve following :- 1. Tareekh-t el M6wloweih, the largest of all, and the first instituted. It originated in Persia, and, like the others, looks with particular respect on Ali. The founder was Gelal e' deen; and his descendants, settled at Konieh, under the titles of Mowlana and Shellebee Effendee, still claim the right of investing every new Sultan with the sword of sovereignty. This is the principal order in Turkey. It was instituted in the middle of the 7th century. 2. Biktaishee or Tareekh-t el Bik- tasheeh. This, the Rufadbh, and some others, were also instituted during the lifetime of the founder of the first order. 3. Tardekht-t e' Rufadh. 4. Tardekh-t e' Nuksh-band4h. 5. Tardekh-t Abd el Kader Gayla- neeh. 6. Tareekh-t e' Sindibh, the modern Psylli of Egypt. 7. Tardekh-t el Kudrdnih. 8. Tardekh-t el Allawdah. 9. Tardekh-t e' Dellaldbh. 10. Tardekh-t el Beddowdah, of Sayd Almed el Beddowee of Tanta. 11. Tardekh-t e' Shazal h. 12. Tareekh-t el Byoomiih. Some only of the above-mentioned 12 orders exist in Egypt: as, Caino. 149 CAIRO.-EXCURSION 1, C. 1. The Mowlowieh, whose college or tageea is at the Seledbeh, near the Seeoofiah. They are whirling der- wishes. 2. The Rufadih, who have a college in the Soog e' Sillih, opposite the mosk of Sultan Hassan. 3. The Biktasheih, whose 'college is at the Maghara, near the fort behind the citadel of Cairo. 4. The Saadiah, in many parts of the city. They perform the cere- monies at the ddseh, on the last day of the Prophets festival, tearing snakes to pieces, and doing other strange feats. 5. The Kudrdeh, who have colleges in many parts of Cairo, besides that of Old Cairo just mentioned. 6. The Beddowdah, who have also many colleges. It is this order which performs the ceremonies at the Mooled e' Nebbee, or "Prophet's birthday," held in the Uzbekeh, in the beginning of the month of Rebeih el owel; those of the last day (Friday) alone being committed to the Saiddeh. 7. The Byoomeh, whose principal college is in the Hossayndeh. They are distinguished by long hair. Marriage is not forbidden to the derwishes, unless they have once taken the vow of celibacy, when they are called Megrrud, and are expected to lead an austere and exemplary life. The derwishes are distinguished by their high caps, the large amulet they wear, generally of agate, and a pecu- liar dress, at least when belonging to a college of their order; but others bear no external mark, and are only known to each other, like freemasons, by certain secret signs. At the Mooled el Hassanin, all the derwishes of Cairo perform zikrs, on a particular day assigned to each sect, except the Mowlowdh, who are only permitted by their rules to celebrate this strange ceremony within the walls of their own college. One or two in- dividuals may, however, assist at the fete, and whirl round, as is their cus- tom, but without the pipes, drums, and other concomitants, which, in the zikrs within their own college, are a necessary part of the performance. In turning, they always hold the right hand with the palm upwards, and the left downwards; the reason of which is, doubtless, as full of religious wis- dom as their laying the spoon upside down after eating, and other mys- terious customs. In their zikr, all those who are present whirl round at the same time, the shekh alone stand- ing still; and such is the merit of the union of many on this occasion, that unless four are present the ceremony cannot be performed. The dancing derwishes are said not to exist in Egypt; but the Rufadih and Saadiah have nearly the same kind of gesture; and the Nuksh- banddh dance together in a circle. The college of derwishes at Old Cairo originally belonged to the Bikta- shehh, having been founded by one of that order; but the shekh having died, and the college standing on ground claimed by Ibrahim Pasha, the latter transferred it to one of the Kudreeh, who had accompanied him from the Morea; and thus this order came into possession of a college properly be- longing to another sect. Whether this grant was according to justice or no I know not; but prejudice and fancy were not long in discovering a direct proof of the displeasure of Allah (which, they add, was greatly increased by the new shekh having cut down a sycamore-tree "entailed" upon the college, and therefore revered as sacred); and the devoted man was miraculously killed by a cannon-ball in Syria, whither he had accompanied his patron. His brother succeeded him as principal of the college. Like the other derwishes they have a particular day set apart for their zikr, which is performed once a week. The day varies according to the sect; that of the Kudrdh is Thursday, and the zikr is celebrated in the dome or mosk, when numerous fires are spread on the ground, add arms, banners, drums, and other things kept there, are used in the ceremony. They here show the shoe of the founder of the building, which is of immense size. This precious relic was formerly placed over the door of the Scct. II. 150 HELIOPOLIS. dome, and exposed to the view of all who entered; but it is now kept in a closet, and only produced when asked for. A friend of mine, who had been there many years ago, observed that the shoe was much smaller than the one he had before seen; and it is pro- bable, as he suggested, that the der- wishes, perceiving the more enlarged ideas of the present age, had thought it prudent to limit their pretensions in the marvellous, by decreasing its size in a suitable ratio to the decrease of credulity. Its position, too, in a closet may have the double effect of season- ing it with the mouldy appearance of age, and of concealing it from those who have not the curiosity to ask to see it. Pococke, who visited the place in 1737, speaks of the curious relics preserved by these strange beings. The largest convent of derwishes is at Cairo, in the street called Hab- baneeh, near the Derb el Ahmar, built in 1174, under the reign of Sultan Selim, by Mustapha agha, his wekdel ; views of which are given in M. Coste's work. The Kasr Dubarra was built by the late Mohammed Bey Defterdar, at the same time as the palace in the Uzbe- kebh, on his return froni Kordofin. It contains two good rooms, with a spacious colonnade opening upon a garden, which gives it a pretty and truly Oriental appearance. In tlhe garden are two lar e sycamore fig- trees overshadowing a fountain, with benches in an open kiosk that encloses it, which, in summer, is a delightful evening retreat. It I s a very Eastern character, heightened by a singular contrivance, through which an arti- ficial shower is made to fall from above on all sides of the kiosk, pipes being carried up the trees and con- cealed among the branches. Mohammed Ali afterwards fitted up this palace for his hareey, and fur- nished the rooms, partly in the Turkish, and partly in tihe European style, in the hopes of combining what is most suitable in those two opposite tastes. Diwans, walls painted by Greeks in the manner of Constanti- nople, fountains, and niches, were united with chairs, tables, sofas, mir- rors, curtains, French windows, and chandeliers; and ottomans were there, with this supposed Turkish name, showing how strangely Europeans fancy they adopt a Turkish piece of furniture, which, unknown in the East, is obliged to retain its European name in rooms whence it is supposed to have derived its origin. The arrange- ment of colours in the furniture was by no means happy, and the frightful taste of Greek painting ill accorded with European hangings; added to which there was an inconsistent mix- ture of wood and marble. EXCURSION 2.-a. HELIOPOLIS- MATARIEEH. The ride from Cairo to Matarih, near which are the mounds of Helio- polis and the obelisk of Osirtasen I., occupies about 2 hours. A little beyond the Dimerdaish, to the right of the road, on the edge of the moun- tains, are the mosk and tomb of the well-known Melek Adel, called El Adldeh. It is now nearly destroyed, the dome alone remaining, which is curious and richly wrought. The last tomb after passing the Dimerdash has a dome very richly ornamented inside; and beyond this, about half-way between the gate (Bab e' Nusr) and Heliopolis, is the Kobbet el Ghoree, a tomb of that king. The town founded by the late Abbas Pasha, and hence called Abbaseh, which you pass on the way to Mata- rdih, is a miserable memorial of the wish on the part of its founder to ennoble his name, without considering whether the object was useful, or the monument likely to endure. In a few years it will be an unsightly mass of ruins. The ride to Matardkh is pretty, and the latter part is well planted with trees. In a field to the left of the road, a little before reaching Mata- rdeh, are some very large blocks, which some suppose to be capitals of columns. Heliopolis is a little beyond that Cairo. 151 CAIRO.--EXCURSION 2, a. village. It is sufficiently known from a distance by its obelisk. Tradition speaks of another obelisk, which for- merly stood opposite this, and which was doubtless of the same Pharaoh, as it wias customary for the Egyptians to place them in pairs at the entrance of their temples. Before them appears to have been an avenue of sphinxes, which probably extended to the N.W. gate of the city, fragments of which may still be seen near the site of that entrance. Pococke mentions, near the same spot, a sphinx of fine yellow marble, 22 feet long; "a piece of the same kind of stone with hieroglyphics; and, 16 paces more to the north, seve- ral blocks," having the appearance of sphinxes; as well as another stone with hieroglyphics on one side. Ac- cording to Strabo, it was by one of these avenues that you approached the temple of the sun of Heliopolis, which he describes as laid out in the ancient Egyptian style, with a dromos of sphinxes before it, forming the ap- proach to the vestibule. And this being the first time I have hadocca@ sion to notice an Egyptian temple, I cannot do better than introduce his description of the general plan of those buildings, which is less out of place here, as he has given it in connexion ,with Heliopolis. ",At the entrance is a pavement, one plethrum (100 feet) or somewhat less in breadth, and 3 or 4, or even more, in length, which is called the dromos (course); and this, according to Callimachus, is sacred to Anubis. Throughout its whole length are placed on either side stone sphinxes, distant from each other 20 cubits (30 feet), or a little more; so that one set of them is on the right, the other on the left (as you pass up the dromos to the temple). After the sphinxes is a large propylon ; and when you have proceeded further in, another propylon, and then a third; but neither to the propyla nor the sphinxes is there any fixed number, these varying in different temples, as well as the length and breadth of the dromos. After the propyla is the temple, having a large handsome portico (pronaos, 7rporaos), and an adytum (sekos, orc s) in proportion, without any statue, or at least not in the form of a man but of some ani- mal." Next follows a not very in- telligible piece of detail. "On either side of .the portico project what are called the wings; they are equal in height to the temple itself, and distant from each other at first a little more than the breadth of the base of the temple; but then, on proceeding for- ward, their lines curve over towards each other, to the extent of 50 or 60 cubits. These walls have sculptures of colossal figures, like the works of the Etruscans, and those of the ancient Greeks. There is also a certain cham- ber supported by columns, as in Mem- phis, of Barbarian character, for, ex- cept that the columns are large and numerous, and in many rows, it has nothing either graceful or elegant about it, but is rather remarkable for a vain display of labour." By the walls having colossal sculptures, he appears to allude to the great towers of the propylon; and the chamber with columns is the usual large columnar hall, like that of Karnak and other temples. The apex of the obelisk indicates, from its shape, the addition of some covering, probably of metal; and the form of that in the Fyoom, of the same king, Osirtasen I., is equally singular. It is, indeed, not unusual to find evi- dences of obelisks having been orna- mented in this manner; and the apices of those at Luxor, as well as of the smaller obelisk at Karnak, which have a slight curve at each of their four edges, recede from the level of the faces, as if to leave room for overlay- ing them with a thin casing of bronze gilt. The faces of the obelisk at Helio- polis measure at the ground 6 ft. 1 in. on the N. and S.; 6 ft. 3 in. on the E. and W.; it stands on the usual labical dado, which reposes on two slabs, each about 2 ft. high, forming apparently part of the paved dromos rather than pedestals or plinths, as they extend a long way inwards beyond the dado of the obelisk. It is about 62 ft. Sect. II. 152 HELIOPOLIS. 4 in. high, .above the level of the ground, or 68 ft. 2 in. above the pave- ment. According to Strabo the city of He- liopolis stood on a large mound or raised site, before which were lakes that received the water of the neigh- bouring canals. It is therefore evident how much the Nile and the land of Egypt have been raised since his time, as the obelisks are now buried to the depth of 5 ft. 10 in.; and as he saw the base of the temple and the pave- ment of its dromos, the inundation could not then have reached to a level with its area. Part of the lofty mounds may still be seen in the Bite of the ancienit houses of the town, which ap- pear to have stood on higher ground than the temple, owing no doubt to their foundations having been raised from time to time as they were rebuilt, and no change of elevation taking place in the site of the temple. This continued in the place where its foundations had been laid by the first Osirtasen. The same was observed by Herodotus, though in a much greateir degree, in the position of the temple of Diana at Bubastis, "which, having remained on the same level where it was first built, while the rest of the town had been raised on various occasions, was seen by those who walked round the walls in a hollow below them." That Strabo is fully justified in speaking of the antiquity of the Temple of the Sun, is proved by the presence of the name of Osirtasen, who was the first king of the XIIth dynasty. Though small, Heliopolis was a town of great celebrity; but it suffered con- siderably by the invasion of the Per- sians. Many of its obelisks, and pro- bably other monuments, were after- wards taken away to Rome and Alex- andria; and at the time of the Geo- grapher's visit it had the character of a deserted city. Strabo also saw "some very large houses where the priests used to live, that being the place to which they particularly resorted in former times for the study of philo- sophy and astronomy ;" but the teach- ers, as well as the sciences they taught, were -.o longer to be found, and no professor of any one was pointed out to him. Those only who had charge of the temple, and who explained the sacred rites to strangers, remained there ; and among other objects of in- terest to the Greek traveller, the houses where Eudoxus and Plato had lived were shown, these philosophers having, it is said, remained thirteen years under the tuition of the priests of He- liopolis. Indeed, it ceased to be the seat of learning after the accession of the Ptolemies, and the schools of Alex- andria succeeded to the ancient col- leges of that city. - The form of Heliopolis, judging from the mounds of the wall of circuit, was irregular, and its utmost extent was only about 3750 ft. by 2870. The houses lay on the north side, covering a space of 575,000 square feet, to the south of which stood the Temple of the Sun. Towards the N.W. are remains of the sphinxes above men- tioned, and the positions of its several gates may be traced in the apertures of the mounds that cover its crude brick walls. It was from one of these that a large road led in a S.E. direc- tion, on the desert side, to the Red Sea, and a smaller one crossed the hills of the Mokuttum, in a southerly direc- tion, passing near the petrified wood which has been dignified by the name of forest, and rejoined the valley of the Nile near the modern village of Toora, a little below the ancient quar- ries of the Trojan mountain. On a red granite fragment, lying some dis- tance from the obelisk, are the name and mutilated figure of the Great Re- meses; and Mr. Salt found a pedestal with a bull and Osiris, about a quarter of a mile to the eastward. The bull Muevis shared with Re or Phra the worship of this city, and was one of the most noted among the sacred ani- mals of Egypt. It was kept in a par- ticular enclosure set apart for it, as for Apis at Memphis, and enjoyed the same honour in the Heliopolite as the latter did in the Memphite nome. A stone gateway has also been found, forming one of the entrances into the sacred enclosure, which bears the name of Thothmes III., and mentions the gods H 3 airo. 153 Re and Atmoo (Atum}, the former has succeeded so far beyond the ex- being called "the lord of the temple." pectations of the most sanguine. It stood about 40 paces within the The balsam-plants are said to have outer wall on the west side: been brought from Judma to this spot The name of the neighbouring vil- by Cleopatra; who, trusting to the lage Matardeh is erroneously supposed influence of Antony, removed them, to signify "fresh water," and to be in spite of the opposition of Herod, borrowed from the Ain Shems ("foun- having been hitherto confined to Ju- tain of the Sun") of ancient times; dmea. Josephus tells us that the lands and though in reality supplied, like vhere the balsam-tree grew belonged the other wells of Egypt, by filtration to Cleopatra, and that "Herod farmed from the river, it is reputed the only of her what she possessed of Arabia, real spring in the valley of the Nile. and those revenues that came to her That the word Matardh cannot sig- from the region about Jericho, bearing nify "fresh water" is evident from the the balsam, the most precious of drugs, form of the Arabic , M-tardeh; which grows there alone." This is S the Balm 'of Gilead mentioned in the for the word Ma, "water," should Bible. The plants were in later times be written , and, being masculine, taken from Matardl to Arabia, and grown near Me cca, whence the balsam would require the adjective to be taree; is now brought to Egypt and Europe, and thi ast is not applied to water, under the name of Balsam of Mecca; but to fruit. According to the Mosaic and the gardens of Heliopolisno longer of Palmestrina, the "fountain of the produce this valuable plant. In the Sun" stood a short distance to the houses of the village are several frag- right, or E. of the obelisks before the ments of stone bearing parts of hiero- temple. glyphic sentences, which have been The ancient Egyptian name of He- removed from the old town or the liopolis was in hieroglyphics, Re-ei or tombs in the vicinity; and many pieces Ei-Re. "the House," or "abode of of petrified wood lie scattered in the the .Sun," corresponding to the title fields, and at the edge of the desert, Bethshemes, of the same import, which on which the ancient city originally Wad applied to it by the Jews; and in stood. Scripture and in Coptic it is called It was in the neighbouring plain "On." The water of "the fountain that Sultan Selim encamped, in 1517, of the Sun" is reported to have been previous to his defeat of Toman Bay, originally salt, until the arrival of the successor of El Ghdree, which Joseph and the Virgin, who converted transferred the sceptre of the Memlook it into a sweet source, and who, having kings to the victorious Osmanlee. reposed under a sycamore-tree near this spot, are said to have caused it to flourish to the present day. This b. BIRKET EL HAG. truly perennial tree is still shown to strangers; and the credulous believe it Beyond Heliopolis are the BiBrket el to be the very one that afforded shade Hag, or "Lake of the Pilgrims," El to the holy family : but neither a re- Khanka, and some ruined towns; which spect for these last, nor the incredulity are not of general interest, and are of sceptics, seems to have exempted it seldom visited. from the name-cutting mania. Birket el Hag is about 5 miles to the The gardens of Metardih were for- eastward of Heliopolis, and is the ren- merly renowned for the balsam they dezvous of the Mecca caravan. Beyond produced; and the ground close to the this is El Khanka; and still further to obelisk claims the honour of having the N. is Aboozdbel, once known for its been the spot where the cultivation of military college, camp, hospital, and Indian cotton was first tried in Egypt, schools of medicine. little more than 25 years ago, which El Khanka was remarkable in the 15t CAIRO.---EXCURSTONO 2, b. Sect. II. BIRKET EL IHAG. days of Leo Africanus "for its fine buildings, its mosks, and colleges," as the neighbouring plain for the abund- ance of dates it produced. Continuing thence towards the N.W., you come to the, ihounds of an ancient town called Tel el Yehdod, or Tel Yehooddish, the "Mound of the Jews," a name given to other ancient ruins in this neighbourhood, one of which is on the edge of the desert, a short dis- tance to the S. of Belbays. The first stands in the cultivated plain, near Shibbien. Its mounds are of a very great height, and, from its name and position, there is little doubt that it marks the site of Onion (Onias, or Oniae Metropolis), called after Onias the high-priest, who built a temple there, and made it the resort of the Jews, in the time of Ptolemy Philo- metor. Its position is a little to the E. of N. from Heliopolis, from which it was distant 12 miles. It is not the Vicus Judeorum, being out of the di- rection from Memphis to Pelusium; but another ruined town corresponds with the site of that place; which, in the Itinerary of Antoninus, is stated to be 30 m. r. from Heliopolis, on the road to Pelusium from that city. Colonel Rennel, in his invaluable work, the Geography of Herodotus, is right in his conjecture that this applies to some other of the "Jewish establishments besides the one formed by Onias," though he does not fix its exact position, which was at the ruins to the S of Belbays, 24 English miles in a direct line from Heliopolis. SJosephus gives a curious account of the foundation of Onion, and the building of the temple there. The son of Onias the high-priest, who bore the same name as his father, having fled from Ahtiochus king of Syria, took refuge at Alexandria in the time of Ptolemy Philometer. Seeing that Judsea was oppressed by the Mace- donian kings, and being desirous to acquire celebrity, he resolved to ask leavi of Ptolemy and Cleopatra to build a temple in Egypt, like that of Jerusalem, and to ordain Levites and priests out of their own stock. To thissi he was also stimulated by a prophecy of Isaiah, who predicted that there should be a temple in Egypt built by a Jew. He therefore wrote to Ptolemy, expressing this wish, and saying he had found a very fit place in a castle that received its name from the country, Diana. He represented it as abounding with sacred animals, full of materials fallen down, and belonging to no master. He also in- timated to the king that the Jews would thereby be induced to collect in Egypt,and assisthimagainst Antiochus. Ptolemy, after expressing his surprise that the God of the Jews should be pleased to have a temple built in a place so unclean, and so full of sacred animals, granted him permission; and the temple was accordingly erected, though smaller and poorer than that of Jerusalem. Josephus afterwards states that the place was 180 stades distant from Memphis; that the nome was called of Heliopolis; the temple was like a tower (in height ?), of large stones, and 60 cubits high; the entire temple was encompassed by a wall of burnt brick, with gates of stone. In lieu of the candlestick he made a lamp of gold, suspended by a golden chain. Such is the substance of the not very clear description given by Josephus. It is sufficient to settle the position of the place; and we may suppose that Onias chose this neighbourhocd for other reasons, which he could not venture to explain to an Egyptian king surrounded by Egyptians; per- haps because it had associations con- nected with the abode of the ancestors of the Jews in Egypt, whence they started with a high hand, and freed themselves from the bondage of Pha- raoh. Other Jewish cities seem afterwards to have been built in this district; and these whose mounds still remain are probably of the "five cities in the land of Egypt," which, according to Isaiah, were, "to speak the language of Canaan." They continued to be inhabited by Jews till a late period. It was by them that Mithridates of Pergamus received so much assistance, when on his way to assist J. Caesar; and the .500 who were embarked by Gairo. 155 CAIRO.-EXCURSION 3.-SHOOBRA. 1Elius Gallus against Arabia appear at Cairo, and the ride thither into the to have been from the same district, desert is well deserving the trouble; And though Vespasian, after the taking moreover, the petrified palms are very of Jerusalem, had suppressed their remarkable. But, by all means, let the religious meetings in the Heliopolite traveller insist, when his guide has nome, they continued to be established assured him that he is arrived at the in many parts of Egypt, independently spot, on going on a mile or two farther. of the large quarter they possessed in We had been warned beforehand not Alexandria, from . which they were to stop at the first small specimens of expelled by the persecutions of the petrified wood, but to persist in riding orthodox Cyril. on, till we found long palm-trees in situ. About 21 miles beyond Onion to This we did to the sorrow and dismay the N.N.E. is Tel Basta, whose lofty of our guide, who tore off his turban, mounds mark the site of Bubastis, and called on the prophet for aid, cast dust 14 miles to the N.E. is Belbays, the on his head, and finally rolled in the successor of Bubastis Agria, in Coptic sand : but all to no purpose; we per- Phelbes. Near to this passed the an- severed, and found the long palms cient canal that once led to Arsinoi converted into stone, and measuring (now Suez) on the Red Sea, whose bed above 60 feet in length-A. C.S.] may still be traced for a considerable Other specimens of palms are met distance in that direction, with on the Suez road; and the same Returning to Cairo from Heliopolis, kinds of agatized wood occur again about 12 m. to the 1. of the road is inland on the other side of the Nile, a red gritstone mountain, which lies on the borders of Waly Fargh (the over the calcareous strata of the Gebel "empty " or "waterless valley"), evi- Mokuttum. The Gritstone, which gra- dently once embedded in a similar dually runs into a siliceous rock, stratum. contains numerous calcedonies, and is The Mo.kuttum range is of magne- of the same nature as the vocal statue sian limestone, like the greater part of at Thebes. Owing to the quality of the mountains on the eastern side of the the stone, which renders it peculiarly valley of the Nile. That part behind adapted for mills, this mountain has the citadel has also obtained the name been quarried from a very early period of Gebel e' Jooshee, from the tomb of a to the present day, as may be seen shekh buried there. from the fragments found at Heliopolis. Among other fossils in this moun- The same species of rock rises here tain, I found the crab, echini, &c., and and there to the southward, upon the sharks' teeth in the lower rocks, im- slope of the limestone range, and the mediately behind the citadel. In a bed above it contains petrified wood of ravine to the rt. of the road to the various kinds, petrified wood is a spring of water, issuing from the mountain; and the spot, for Egypt, is romantic. C. PETRIFIED WOOD. EXCURSION 3.-GARDENS AND PALACE The principal mass of this, miscalled ExcsiOF S3.-GRDEooBNS AND PALACE the "forest," may be seen 4 m. to the S.S.E. of the Red Mountain; where, A ride of about 4 m. from Cairo, besides branched and thorn-bearing through a shady avenue of trees, takes trees, are palms, and some jointed stems you to Mohammed Ali's palace and resembling bamboos, one of which was gardens of Shoobra, to the N. of the about 1-5 ft. long, broken at each of city, on the banks of the Nile. This the knots. A small one given by me avenue, which has been planted be- to the British 1iMuseum has rather the tween 40 and 50 years, is formed al- character of an equisetum. most entirely of the Acacia Lebbekh; [The excursion to the petrified forest which last has not only the recom- is now one of the regular tourist sights mendation of rapid growth, but of great 15 Sect. II. beauty, particularly when in blossom, which forms a pretty summer-house, The river is at first at some distance rising as it does above a series of ter- to the 1., having forsaken its ancient races planted with flowers, and corn- channel, which may still be traced manding a view over the whole garden, between the road and the bank, and the Nile, and the hills in the distance. which in early times ran through the It consists of one room paved with plain that now separates Cairo from Oriental alabaster, having a fountain Boolak. Before reaching the palace, in the centre. you pass the village of Shoobra, or, as The palace itself has nothing to it is called, Shoobra el Makkaseh, to recommend it but the view from the distinguish it from another place, 14 windows. mn. lower down the river, Shoobra e' Outside the gardens are the stables Shabdih, where the direct road to Alex- of the Pasha, seldom containing any andria crosses the Damietta branch, horses worth looking at; and the curi- The gardens of Shoobra, though for- osity of strangers is expected not to mal, are pretty; and the scent of roses, wish for more than an elephant, a with the gay appearance of flowers, is giraffe, and some gazelles kept in the an agreeable novelty in Egypt. The adjoining yard. walks radiate from centres to different parts of the gardens, some covered with trellis-work, most comfortable in hot ExcuRSION 4.-PYRAMIDS OF GEEZEH, weather; and the whole is carefully SAMI.(ARA, AND MEMPHIS. kept by natives under the direction of Greek gardeners. a. Things required. b. Village of There is no great variety of flowers; Geezeh; Egg Ovens. c. History of roses, geraniums, and a few other kinds the Pyramids. d. Great Pyramid. e. are the most abundant. In one place I Second Pyramid. f. Third Pyramid; observed some sont trees (Acacia Nilo- Small Pyramids. g. Sphinx. h. Tombs. tica), of unusual height, not less than i. Causeway. j. Small Pyramids, near 40 or 45 ft. high. The great fountain that of Cheops; nature of the Rock. is the lion of the garden. In the centre k. Date of Pyramids. 1. Pyramid cf is an open space with an immense Abooroftsh. m. The Two Arab Bridges. marble basin containing water, about n. Busiris. o. Pyramids of Aboosier. 4 ft. deep, surrounded by marble balus- p. Pyramids of Sakkira; Tombs. q. trades. These, as well as the columns Pyramids of Dashdor. r. Memphis. and mouldings, are from Carrara, the work of Italians, who have indulged a. THINGS REQUIRED. their fancies by carving fish and va- rious strange things among the orna- The principal requisites in a visit to mental details. You walk round it the pyramids are a stock of provisions, under a covered corridor, with kiosks some goollehs or water-bottles, a lan- projecting into the water; and at each tern, a supply of candles, and the means of the four corners of the building is a of lighting them; and, if the traveller room with diwans, fitted up partly in intends passing the night there, a the Turkish, partly in the European mattrass and bedding, and a broom style. Some have been surprised to for sweeping out the tombs where he see at this fountain gas-lamps, evi- is to take up his abode; or a tent. A dently of the same family as those in fly-flap is also necessary, and, in hot Regent Street; but a more reasonable weather, a mosquito-curtain. If he cause of surpriseis that Shoobra should wishes to visit the rooms discovered by have been lighted by gas before it was Colonel Howard Vyse over the king's introduced into any part of Paris. chamber, he must take a rope ladder, At the other side of the gaiden, near or a wooden ladder in short pieces, to the palace, is another kiosk, called e' enable it to be carried into the upper Gebel, "the hill," to which you ascend passage. by flights of steps on two sides, and Strangers justly complain of the Cairo. EXCURMIN 4, a.. 157 CAIRO.-EXCURSION 4, . torment of the people of the village, who collect about them like a swarm of flies, forcing their troublesome services upon them to their great discomfort and inconvenience. It is the duty of the traveller's dragoman to prevent this; to fix upon a sufficient number of guides; and to allow no others to come near him. Each person should pay a dollar for two guides, who should take him up into the pyramid, to the tombs, and every other part. Nothing, on any account, should be given them when in the pyramids, and all attempts at exaction should be firmly resisted. The time occupied in going to the pyramids depends on .the season of the year. When the lands are free from water, the road is direct from Geezeh, a distance of about 5 m.; but, duiing the inundation, it follows the gisr, or dyke, and is a great ddtour, being double that distance. It then passes by the village of Shebrament, which is half-way between the pyramids and those of Saklkara. and then turns north- wards by the Hidger, or edge of the desert. There is no necessity tb sleep at the pyramids, in taking a rapid view of them and the tombs in the vicinity, especially when the road is open direct from Geezeh : indeed, in the other case it is not absolutely required, though it will be necessary then to start very early in the morning. Some have even visited the pyramids of Geezeh, those of Sakkara, and the colossus of Mitrahenny, and have returned to Cairo the same day; but this is a long day's work at any season. The most comfortable plan is to sleep at the pyramids, and go over to Sal.kra next day, returning to Cairo that evening. A visit to the ruined pyramid of Abooroash will re- quire another day; but this, though interesting to those who have the time to spare,would not repay the generality of travellers for the journey. If the traveller intends visiting the pyramids on his way up the Nile, he may ride over from Geezeh, and send his boat to wait for him at Bedreshayn, where he may join it, after seeing Sal.cra and the remains of Memphis, the same evening; but he must take care the boat starts in time, particularly if the wind is not fair. b. VILLAGE OF GEEZEI ; EGG OVENS. Geezeh itself.presents nothing worth notice; but the traveller, if he wishes, may see the process of hatching eggs by artificial means in ovens; which has been continued from the time of the Pharaohs to the present day. The Coptic name of Geezeh was Tpersioi. It is now a mere village, with a few cafds, ruined bazaars, and the wrecks of houses, once the summer retreats of the Memlooks and Cairenes. At the time of the Memlooks it was fortified, and formed, with the Isle of Roda, a line of defences which commanded or protected the approach to the capital. Leo Africanus calls it a city, beautified by the palaces of the Memlooks, who there sought retirement from the bustle of Cairo, and frequented by numerous merchants and artisans. It was also the great market for sheep, brought, as he says, from the mountains of Barca, whose owners, the Arabs, fearing to cross the river, sold their stock there to agents from the city. The mosks and beautiful buildings by the river's side are no longer to be seen at Geezeh; and the traveller, as he leaves his boat, wanders amidst uneven heaps of rubbish, and the ill-defined limits of potters' yards, till he issues from a breach in the crumbling Memlook walls into the open plain. On passing some of the villages on the way, a picturesque view of the pyramids may here and there engage the eye or the pencil of an artist. c. IISTORY OF THE PYRAMIDS. The pyramids have been frequently mentioned by ancient and modern writers; but the statements of the former respecting their founders are far from satisfactory, and no conjec- tures seem to explain the object for which they were erected. According to Herodotus, the founder of the great pyramid, called by him Cheops, was a prince whose crimes and tyranny Sect. II. HISTORY OF THE PYRAMIDS. rendered his name odious even to posterity. "He closed all the temples, and forbade the Egyptians to perform sacrifices; after which he made them all work for him. Some were em- ployed in the quarries of the Arabian hills, to cut stones, to drag them to the river, and to put them into boats, others being stationed on the opposite shore to receive them, and drag them to the Libyan hills; and the 100,000 men thus occupied were relieved by an equal number every 3 months. Of the time," he adds, "passed in this arduous undertaking, 10 years were taken up with the construction of the causeway for the transport of the stones,- a work scarcely less wonder- ful in my opinion than the pyramid itself; for it has 5 stades in length, 10 orgyes in breadth, and 8 in height in the highest part, and is constructed of polished stones, sculptured withi the figures of animals. These 10 years were occupied exclusively in the cause- way, independently of the time spent in levelling the hill on which the pyra- mids stand, and in making the subter- ranean chambers intended for his tomb in an island formed by the waters of the Nile, which he conducted thither by a canal. The building of the pyramid itself occupied 20 years. It is square, each face measuring 8 plethra in length, and the same in height. The greater part is of polished stones, most carefully put together, no one of which is less than 30 ft. long. "This pyramid was built in steps, and, as the work proceeded, the stones were raised from the ground by means of machines made of short pieces of wood. When a block had been brought to the first tier, it was placed in a machine there, and so on from tier to tier by a succession of similar machines,there being as many machines as tiers of stone; or perhaps one served for the purpose, being moved from tier to tier as each stone was taken up. I mention this, because I have heard both stated. When completed in this manner, they proceeded to make out (the form of) the pyramid, beginning from the top, and thence downwards to the lowest tier. On the exterior was engraved in Egyptian characters the sum expended in supplying the workmen with raphanus, onions, and garlic; and he who interpreted the inscription told me, as I remember well, that it amounted to 1600 talents (200,0001. sterling.") "If that be true, how much must have been spent on the iron tools, the food and, clothing of the workmen, employing as they did, all the time above mentioned, without counting that occupied in cutting and transporting the stones and making the subterraneous chambers, which must have been considerable !" The historian then mentions a ridi- culous story about the daughter of the king to whom he attributes the construction of the central pyramid of the three, standing to the E. of that of Cheops, each side of which was 1z plethrum in length. "Cheops," he continues, "having reigned 50 years, died, and was suc- ceeded by his brother Cephren, who followed the example of his prede- cessor. Among other monuments he also built a pyramid, but much less in size than that of Cheops. I measured them both. It has neither under- ground chambers, nor any canal flow- ing into it from the Nile, like the otiher, where the tomb of its founder is placed in an island surrounded by water. The lowest tier of this pyra- mid is of Ethiopian stone of various colours (granite). It is 40 ft. smaller than its neighbour. Both are built on the same hill, which is about 100 ft. high. The same priests informed me that Cephren reigned 56 years, so that the Egyptians were overwhelmed for 106 years with every kind of oppres- sion, and the temples continued to be closed during the whole time. Indeed they have such an aversion for the memory of these two princes, that they will not even mention their names, and for this reason they call the pyramids after the shepherd Philitis, who at the time of their erection used to feed his flocks near this spot." " After Cephren, Mycerinus, the son of Cheops, according to the state- ment of the priests, ascended the throne. He also built a pyramid, Cairo. 159 CAIRO.-EXCURSION 4, c. much less than his father's, being 20 ft. smaller. It is square: each of its sides is 3 plethra long; and it is made half way up of Ethiopian (granite) stone. Disapproving of the conduct of his father, he ordered the temples to be opened, and permitted the people, who had been oppressed by a long series of cruelties, to return to their work and their religious duties; and administering justice with'great equity, he was looked upon by the Egyptians as superior to all the kings who had ever ruled the country." Mycerinus, after having treated his people with humanity, seems to have been treated by the gods with much unkindness, according to the account of the historian, who takes occasion to relate an absurd story of his daughter, which, like others of the same kind, was probably a production of the Greek quarter of those days, where idle tales and a love of the marvellous seem to have been as prevalent as in the Frank quarter at the present time. After this, he assigns the cow at Sais (which, according to his own showing, was connected with the mysteries of Isis and Osiris) to the daughter of Mycerinus; but another Greek tale, attributing the erection of the third pyramid to Rhodopis, he very properly rejects. "There are some Greeks," he says, " who ascribe it to the courtesan Rhodopis, but they are in error, and do not appear to know who she was, or surely they would not have attri- buted to her the building of a pyramid, which must have cost thousands and thousands of talents. Besides, Rhodopis did not live in the time of Mycerinus, but of Amasis, many years after the kings who built these monuments. She was from Thrace, the slave of ladmon, the son of Hephestopolis, a Samian, the fellow-slave of Esop the fabulist. . . Rhodopis was brought to Egypt by Xanthus of Samos, and was ransomed at a large price by Charaxus of Mitylene, the son of Scamandro- nymus, and brother of the poetess Sappho. Having been restored to liberty, she remained in Egypt, and, being very beautiful, she amassed a large fortune, for a person in her condition, though not sufficient to build such a pyramid. Indeed, as every one may at this day see what the tenth part of her wealth was, it is very useless attributing to her great riches; for Rhodopis, wishing to leave a memorial of herself in Greece, thought of a novel kind of offeting that had occurred to no one else, which she dedicated to the temple of Delphi. It consisted of numerous iron spits for roasting oxen, the cost of which was just equal to the tenth of her property; and these, being sent to Delphi, were put up behind the altar dedicated by the Chians, opposite the sanctuary, where they now lie." Diodorus says that " Chembis (or Chemmis), a Memphite, who reigned 50 years, built the largest of the three pyramids, which are reckoned among the seven wonders of the world. They stand on the Libyan side (of the Nile), distant from Memphis 120 scadia, and 45 from the river. They strike every beholder with wonder, both from their size and the skill of their workman- ship; for every side of the largest, at the base, is 7 plethra in length, and more than 6 in height. Decreasing in size towards the summit, it there measures 6 cubits (9 ft.) The whole is of solid stone, made with prodigious labour, and in the most durable manner, having lasted to our time, a period not less than 1000 years, or, as some say, upwards of 3400; the stones still pre- serving their original position, and the whole structure being uninjured. The stone is said to have been brought from Arabia, a considerable distance, and the building made by means of mounds (inclined planes), machines not having yet been invented. What is most sur- prising is, that, though these structures are of such great antiquity, and all the surrounding ground is of so sandy a nature, there is no trace of a mound, nor vestige of the chippings of the stone: so that the whole seems as if placed on the surrounding sand by the aid of somedeity rather than by the sole and gradual operations of man. Some of the Egyptians try to make wonderful stories about them, saying that the mounds (inclined planes) were made of salt and nitre, which by 160 Sect. I. HISTORY OF THE PYRAMIDS. directing the water of the river upon them, were afterwards dissolved with- out human aid when the work was completed. This cannot be true; but the same number of hands that raised the mounds removed the whole to the original place whence they were brought. For it is reported that 360,000 men were employed in this work, and the time occupied in finish- ing the whole was scarcely -less than 20 years. "On the death of this king, his brother Cephern succeeded to the throne, and reigned 56 years. Some say he was his son, by name Chabryis, and not his brother. All, however, agree that on his accession, wishing to emulate his predecessor, he built the second pyramid, similar to the other in its style of building, but far inferior in size, each face being only one stade in length at its base. On the larger one is inscribed the sum spent in herbs and esculent roots for the workmen, amounting to upwards of 1600 talents. The smaller one has no inscription, but on one side steps are cut to ascend it. Of the two kings who raised these monuments for themselves, neither one nor the other was destined to be buried therein. The people who had endured. so much fatigue in building them, and had been oppressed by their cruelty and violence, threatened to drag their bodies from their tombs and tear them to pieces; so that these princes at their death ordered their friends to bury them privately in some other secret place. " After them came Mycerinus, or, as some call him, Mecherinus, the son of the founder of the great pyramid. He built the third, but died previous to its completion. Each side was made 3 plethra long at the base, with (a easing of) black stone, similar to that called Thebaic, as far as the fifteenth tier, the rest being completed with stone of the same quality as the other pyramids. Though inferior in size to the others, it is superior in its style of building and the quality of the stone. On the N. side is inscribed the name of its founder, Mycerinus. This king, avoiding the cruelty of his predecessors,, exercised great benevolence towards his subjects, and courted their good will by his justice .... "There are also three other pyramids, each side of which measures 2 plethra. In their style of building they are similar to the preceding, and differ only in their dimensions; and they are stated to have been built by the above-mentioned kings as sepulchres for their queens. There is no doubt that the pyramids surpass all other monumentsin Egypt; andthe architects are thought to deserve more credit than the kings at whose expense they were made. , . . But neither the natives nor writers are agreed respecting the names of their founders; some attributing them to the above-named, others to different princes; the largest, for in- stance to Armnimus, the second to Amasis, the third to Inaron, or, as some pretend, to the courtesan Rhodopis." Strabo, in describing the pyramids, says, "40 stadia from the city (of Memphis) is a brow of hills, on which many pyramids stand, the sepulchres of kings. Three of them are remark- able, and two are reckoned among the wonders of the world. They are both a stadium in height, of a square figure, and their hleight is little more than the breadth of the sides; but one is rather larger than the other. " Near the centre of the sides is a stone which can be taken out, from which a passage leads to the tomb. The two (large pyramids) are near each other on the same plain; and at some distance, on a more ele- vated part of the hill, is the third, smaller than the other two, but built in a more costly manner. From the base to about the middle it is of black stone, of which they make mortars, brought from the mountains of Ethio- pia; and this being hard and difficult to work rendered its construction more expensive. It is said to be the tomb of a courtesan, built by her lovers, whom Sappho the poetess calls Doricha, the friend of her brother Charaxus, at the time that he traded in wine to Naucratis. Others call her Rhodope, and relate a story that, when.she was bathing, an eagle carried off one of her sandals, and, having flown with it to Cairo. 1C1 CAIRO.--EXCURSION 4, C. Sect, 1I. TOPOGRAPHICAL PLAN OF THE PYRAMIDS OF GEEZEH. A, Real and forced entrance to the great pyramid. B, entrance to the second pyramid. C C, Long pits, by some supposed for mixing the mortar. D. Pyramid of the daughter of Cheops (He- rodotus, ii. 126). E, Pavement of black stones (basaltic trap), the same as found on the cause- ways of the pyramids of Salkkra. F, Remains of masonry. G, Round enclosures of crude brick, of Arab date, at N.E. angle of this pyramid. H, Tombs of individuals, with deep pits. I, The tomb of numbers. K, Two inclined passages, meeting under ground, apparently once belonging to a small pyramid that stood over them. L L, The rock is here cut to a level surface. M, A narrow and shallow trench cut in the rock. N, A square space cut in the rock, probably to receive and support the corner-stone of the casing of the pyramid. The corner itself is of rock. P, Here Stood a tomb which has received the title of the Temple of Osiris. Q, Tomb of trades, to west of tombs H. R, A pit cased with stone, of modern date. S, The third pyramid. T, Three small pyramids. In the centre one i6 the name of a king. (See below, p. 175). U V, Ruined buildings, whose original use it is now difficult to determine. W W WV, Fragments of stone arranged in the manner of a wall. X, A few palms and sycamores, with a well. Y, Southern stone causeway. Z, Northern causeway, repaired by the Caliphs. a, Tombs cut in the rock. b, Masonry, c, Black stones. d d, Tombs cut in the rock. e, The sphinx. f, One of the pits which I had marked as unopened has been excavated by M. Mariette, and proves to be a large tomb with passages lined with granite and oriental alabaster: there is still another unopened. g, Pits. h, Stone ruin on a rock. i, Doorway, or passage through the southern causeway. k, A grotto in the rock, and above to the s.. are pits at t. 1, Inclined causeway, part of Y. m n, Tombs in the rocks. o, Some hieroglyphics- on the rock, and trenches below, cut when the 162 HISTORY OF THE PYRAMIDS. Memphis, let it fall into the lap of the king as he sat in judgment. Struck by this singular occurrence and the beauty of the sandal, the king sent to every part of the country to inquire for its owner, and, having found her at Naucratis, he made her his queen, and buried her at her death in this sepulchre." This Cinderella tale was probably an invention of the Greek quarter, after the time of Herodotus. The geographer then mentions the fragments of stone resembling lentils and barley (which he thinks very likely to be remains of the workmen's food), and the quarries of the Trojan mountain, whence the stones were brought to build the pyramids. Close to these quarries and to the river, he adds, was "a village called Troja, the ancient abode of the Trojan captives brought to Egypt by Menelaus, who settled there." Pliny's account of the pyramids re- presents them to be "an idle and silly display of royal wealth. For some state the reason of their erection to have been either to deprive successors or ambitious competitors of the money, or to prevent the people becoming idle. Nor was this vanity confined to one person, and the traces of many begun and left unfinished may still be seen. There is one in the Arsinoite nome, two more in the Memphitic, not far from the Labyrinth ... . the same number where the Lake Mceris was, this being a large canal. These Egypt reckons among her wonders, the sum- mits of which are represented towering (above the water's surface). Three others, which have filled the whole world with their renown, are seen from a great distance by those who navigate t.he river. They stand on the barren rocky eminence on the African shore, between the city of Memphis, and what is called the Delta, less than 4 m. from the Nile, and 6 from Mem- phis, close to a village called Busiris, where the people live who are in the habit of climbing up them. Before them is the Sphinx, even more won- derful, and having the appearance of a local diety of the neighbouring people. They suppose king Amasis was buried within it, and that the whole was brought to the place where it now stands, though in reality it is cut out of the natural rock and worked smooth. The circumference of the monster's head is 102 ft. across the fore- head, its length is 143, and its height from the belly to the highest point of the head 63 ft. " The largest pyramid is built of stones from the Arabian quarries; 366,000 men are said to have been employed for 20 years in its construc- tion; and the three were all made in 68 years and 4 months. Those who have written about them are Hero- dotus, Euhemerus, Duris of Samos, Aristagorus, Dionysius, Artemidorus, Alexander Polyhistor, Butorides, Antis- thenes, Demetrius, Demoteles, Apion; and yet no one of them shows satisfac- torily by whom they were built; aproper reward to the authors of such vanity that their names should be buried in oblivion. "Some have affirmed that 1800 talents were spent in raphanus-roots, garlic, and onions. The largest covers a space of 8 acres (jugera), with 4 faces of equal size from corner to corner, and each measuring 883 ft.; the breadth at the summit being 25 ft. The faces of the other pyramid measure each 737 ft. from the four corners. The third is less than the other two, but much more elegant, being of Ethiopian stone (granite), and measures 363 ft. between the corners. "No vestiges of houses remain near them, but merely pure sand on every side, with something like lentils, conm- mon in the greater part of Africa. squared blocks were taken away. p, Tombs cut in the scarp of the rock. q, Stone wall. r, Steps cut in the rock, near the N.w. angle of the great pyramid. M N, i s, Magnetic North and South, in 1832 and 1836; T' N is True North. u, Campbell's tomb. v, Arched tomb, with name of Psammitichus. w, A tomb with figures in relief and the Egyptian curved cornice. The constructed tombs at H, and behind the rocks, d d, are less regularly disposed than in the plan, but it is difficult to define them exactly on so small a scale. Cairo. 163 The principal question is, how the minarets of Cairo, the citadel and blocks were carried up to such a the range of the Mol.kuttum hills in the height ? For some suppose that distance, with the quarries of Masarah, mounds, composed of nitre and salt, whence so many of the blocks used for were gradually formed as the work building the pyramids were taken, are advanced, and were afterwards dis- interesting features in this peculiar solved by the water of the river as landscape; and the refreshing appear- soon as it was finished; others, that ance of the plain, whether covered with bridges were made of mud bricks, water or with its green vegetation, are which, when the work was completed, striking contrasts to the barren desert were used to build private houses; on the W. To the southward are since the Nile, being on a lower level, the pyramids of Abooseer, Saklpira, could not be brought to the spot. and Dashoor; to the northward the Within the great pyramid is a well heights of Abooroish; and a little to 86 cubits (129 ft.) deep, by which they the E. of N. are the two stone bridges suppose the river was admitted." built by the Arab kings of Egypt, which some suppose to have served d. THE GREAT PYRAMID. for the transport of the stones from the pyramids to Cairo. The first thing the traveller generally The masonry over the entrance of does, on arriving at the pyramids, is the great pyramid is remarkable; two to ascend that of Cheops. The ascent large blocks resting against each other is by no means difficult, though fa- form a pent-roof arch, and serve to tiguing to some unaccustomed to climb- take off the superincumbent weight ing, from the height of the stones, from the roof of the passage. The while others ascend with the greatest position of the stones in the body of ease; and I have known one, an officer the pyramid is horizontal, and not, of the Cyclops, reach the top in 8 min. like some at the false pyramid, with a Ladies, who are often dragged up, dip towards the centre at right angles rather than assisted. by the Arabs, with its exterior face; but at the en- will find a great advantage in having trance they follow the inclination of the a couple of steps, or a foot-stool, to be passage, which is an angle of 270, or, carried by the Arabs, and put down as Col. Howard Vyse gives it, 26� 41'. where the stones are high; and this On going down the passage, at about would be not less useful in descending 80 ft. from its present mouth you per- than in going up the pyramid. The ceive the end of a granite block, which easiest side to ascend is the E. On closes the upper passage, and which the summit is a space about 32 ft. was once carefully concealed by a tri- square (much larger than in the days angular piece of stone fitting into the of Pliny and Diodorus), having been roof of the lower passage, and secured increased when the casing and the outer in that position by a cramp on either tiers were removed by the caliphs, to side. This stone has been removed, serve for the construction of mosks and the end of the granite it once and other buildings at Cairo. The covered is now exposed. But the mania for writing names is abundantly granite closing the upper passage still manifested in the number inscribed remains in its original place ; and on the top of this monument, and in order to avoid and pass above it, scarcely less at the entrance of the you turn to the rt. by a forced pas- passage below, which, as in all the sage, and after climbing a few rough pyramids, is on the N. side. The view steps you come to its upper extremity, from the summit is extensive, and, and ascend to the great gallery, on during the inundation, peculiarly in- entering which you perceive to the rt. teresting and characteristic of Egypt. the entrance to the well, which served The canals winding through the plain, as another communication with the or the large expanse of water when lower passage. The angle of the upper the Nile is at its highest, and the passage is the same as that of the lower 164 CAIRO.---EXCURSION 4, d. Sect. II. PYRAMID OF CHEOP. one, and both have the same direction, which is due S.; but one runs down to a subterranean room, the other up to the entrance of the great gallery, where a horizontal passage leads to what is called the queen's chamber. This is generally visited before as- cending the Great Gallery. It is rather smaller than the upper chamber, with a roof formed of blocks of stone resting against each other, in the manner of a pent-house, like those over the entrance of the pyramid; and on the east side, a short way from the door, is a sort of niche or recess, built with stones pro- jecting one beyond the other, like those of the great gallery, The object for which it was intended is not easily explained; and the Arabs, in hopes of finding treasure, have broken into the masonry at the back for some dis- tance. I excavated in vain below, in quest of a sepulchral pit. It is worthy of remark that this, and not what is called the king's, chamber stands in the centre, or below the apex, of the pyramid. The stones in the side walls are admirably fitted to- gether, so that the joints can scarcely be traced; and an incrustation of salt has tended still more to give them the appearance of having been hewn in the solid rock, which, however, on close inspection proves not to be the case. You here stand 72 feet above the level of the ground, 408 feet below the original summit, and 71 feet below the floor of the king's chamber. Re- turning to the great gallery, you con- tinue to ascend at the same angle of 26� 41', and then enter a horizontal passage, once closed by four portcul- lises of granite, sliding in grooves of the same kind of stone, which concealed and stopped the entrance to that chamber. It is the principal apartment in the pyramid, its dimensions being 34 ft. long, 17 ft. 7 in. broad, and 19 ft. 2 in. high. The roof is flat, and formed of simple blocks of granite resting on the side walls, which are built of the same materials. Towards the upper end is a sarcophagus of the same kind of red granite, 3 ft. 1 in. in height, 7 ft. 4 in. long, by 3 ft. broad, which is only 3 in. less in width than the door by which it was admitted, having been probably introduced by means of the screw. On being struck, it emits a very fine sound, as of a deep-toned bell; but the depredations of travellers, if continued for a few more years, will end in re- ducing it to a mere fragment, and give us reason to regret the senseless destruc- tion of this monument, while they justify a remark made by Mohammed All, that Europeans might do well to remember, when censuring the igno- rance of the Turks in destroying so many relics of antiquity, that they themselves contribute not a little to their deterioration, and set a bad exam- ple to those of whom they complain. The sarcophagus is entirely destitute of hieroglyphics and every kind of sculpture; which is the more singular, as it is the very place of all others where we might expect to find them. And this has been used as an argument in favour of the assumption that hie- roglyphics were not known at the time the pyramids were erected. But the authority of Herodotus, who saw an inscription on the face of the great pyramid, the assertion of Abd-el-Aziez, who mentions the same thing, and the sculptures of the tombs in the vicinity bearing the name of Cheops, Suphis, or Shofo, by whom it was erected, as well as the probability that people so far advanced in the science of archi- tecture could not be without a written language, suffice to disprove this con- jecture; and the discoveries of Colonel Howard Vyse, who found hierogly- phics containing the king's name on the stones of the upper chambers, have satisfactorily set the question at rest, and proved their use at the period of its erection. The inscription mentioned by Hero- dotus on the front of the pyramid is said to have contained an account of the expenses incurred in feeding the workmen, according to the explanation given by the interpreter who accompa- nied him. From the manner in which he speaks of it, we might sul pose the inscription to have been in Hieratic, or in Enchorial. But the latter was then unknown, and the Hieratic was not monumental; and though he seems to Cairo. 165 CAIRO.-EXCURSION 4, . use the expression " the figures of ani- mals'" to indicate hieroglyphics, we may conclude the inscription on the pyramid to have been in the same cha- racter. With regard to the stones mentioned by some modern writers in the walls of the adjacent tombs, it is certain that they were not taken, as they suppose, from the pyramids. Nor are those buildings anterior in date to the great pyramid, since their position is evidently regulated by the direction of that monument. In the hierogly- phic inscriptions of the tombs, the names of kings are of very great anti- quity, being of the contemporary se- cond, fourth, and fifth dynasties ; among which are those of Shofo (a), Suphis, or Cheops, the founder of the great pyramid, and of Nou-Shofo (b), proving the early date of hieroglyphics, and their common use at that period. The first of the two names here given (a) b is evidently of Suphis (Shofob); but it is remarkable that the other (b) is also found in the great pyramid; and both have been painted on the stones before they were built into the walls, probably while in the quarry; and this, with other facts, argues that Non Shofo (or Nef-Shofo) was a contemporary of Su- phis (Shofo), and shared the throne with him. This too will account for the great pyramid being their first work, and for its having two sepulchral chambers; that called the Queen's being no doubt of one of these twa contem- porary kings. The second of these was probably the Sen-Saophis (or "bro- ther of Suphis") mentioned by Era- tosthenes. He appears to have died before Suphis; and the. contempora- neousness of their rule removes the difficulty of two brothers reigning 50 and 56 years in succession. The name of Shofo is on blocks used in the uppermost (Campbell's) chamber, that of Nou-Shofo in the one below it; and a stone, with the latter name, is built into the wall of a tomb which has those of both kings on its outer face. In the side walls of the king's cham- ber are small holes, or tubes, the use of which perplexed every one until ascertained by the valuable researches of the same person to whose perseve- rance we are so greatly indebted; and it was left for Colonel Howard Yyse to ascertain their real use, as tubes to conduct air into the interior of the pyramid. Over the king's chamber is another room, or rather entresol, which, like those above it, was evi- dently intended to protect the roof of that chamber from the pressure of the mass of masonry above. This was discovered by Mr. Davidson, British consul at Algiers, who accompanied Mr. Wortley Montagu to Egypt in 1763, and therefore received his name. The ascent to it was by means of small holes cut into the wall at the S.E. corner of the great gallery, at the top of which was the entrance of a narrow passage leading into it. This room is not more than 3 ft. 6 in. high; and the floor, which is the upper side of the stones forming the roof of the chamber below, is very uneven. Its roof also consists of granite blocks, like that of the king's chamber, and serves as the floor of another entresol; above which are three other similar low rooms, the uppermost of which, called after Colonel Campbell, has a pent-roof, made of blocks placed against each other, like those of the queen's chamber, and over the entrance of the pyramid. These four upper entrebols were dis- covered by Colonel Howaid Vyse, and received from him the names of Well- ington's, Nelson's, Lady Arbuthnot s, and Campbell's chambers. On the stones were found some hie- roglyphics, painted in red ochre, pre- senting more than once the names of the kings above mentioned, and evident- ly written upon the blocks before they were put into their present places, as some are turned upside down, and others are partly covered by the adja- cent stones. Many of them may still 166 SeCt. II. PYRAMID OF CHEOPS. be traced; though the admission of air, and, above all, the rage for writing names, which is here done with the smoke of candles, will soon cause them to disappear. The number of visitors, however, to these chambers is likely now to be very limited, as the wooden steps at the end of the gallery have been taken away, and the ascent is by no means easy without a ladder. It may seem remarkable that, while the roofs of these chambers are smooth and even, the floors are left rough, the inequalities of the stones in some places being of several feet; but this only shows that they were not intended for any use beyond that of relieving the king's chamber from the superin- cumbent weight. Towards the ends of the blocks in the floor of the uppermost room are small square holes, the object of which it is difficult to determine. They are probably connected with their transport from the quarry, or their elevation to their present position. At the bottom of the great gallery, on the W. side, is a passage partly vertical, partly slanting and irregular, generally called "the well ; " which is now closed. It connects the gallery with the lower passage; and in de- scending it some years ago, I observed that the rock rose to the height of about 72 ft. above the level of the ground, showing that the pyramid was built over a small hill, which may be called the nucleus of the fabric., The well is nearly 200 ft. deep, which is the distance between the two pas- sages, the point where it enters the lower one being 91 ft. below the level of the pyramid's base. It was by this well that the workmen descended, after they had closed the lower end of the upper passage with the block of granite before mentioned; and having reached the lower passage, they fol- lowed it upwards to the mouth of the pyramid, which they stopped in the same manner; and it is to this last that Strabo alludes when he says it was closed by a stone fitted into the mouth of the passage. The lower passage is a continuation of the one by which you entered, and left on ascend- ing near the granite block; on return- ing to which point from the great gallery, you continue the descent by the lower passage for 225 ft. (or from the present entrance of the pyramid 306 ft.), and then reach the mouth of the well, from which to the lower chamber is 53 ft. more, nearly half at the same angle, and the rest on a level. When in this chamber you are 105 ft. below the base of the pyramid, and about the same level as the plain under the rock on which it stands. This chamber was left unfinished, and on the W. side are several pro- jecting pieces of the rock cut into irregular shapes. In the wall, op- posite its entrance, is a small unfi- nished passage, extending 52 ft. in a southerly direction, leading to no room; and in the floor between this and the entrance is a pit placed diagonally with regard to the walls, which was excavated by Colonel Howard Vyse to the depth of 36 ft. without leading to any result. Nor did he succeed in finding the canal mentioned by Here- dotus. Indeed, I doubt the assertion of the historian, respecting the intro- duction of the waters of the Nile, which, in the days of Suphis or Cheops, must have been on a much lower level than at the present time. On the N. wall of the great gallery I observed the names of Aibek, Bay- birs, and Sultan Mohammed, which were either written by visitors during those reigns, or by some one who wished to deceive future travellers. Aibek was the first king of the Baharite dynasty of Memlooks. He reigned in 1250, and Baybirs in 1260; and as the word Saeed follows the name of M1o- hammed, we may suppose him to be the son and successor of Baybers. He died in 1279. If really written during those reigns, they would prove that the pyramid was open at that period; which is by no means improbable, since these monuments served during a long period as quarries for .the erec- tion of mosks and other buildings at Cairo; and it is generally believed that it always remained open after the reign of the Caliph Mamoon. It is said to have been first opened by that prince about the year 820 A.D.; and Cairo . 167 CAIRO.-EXCURSION 4, d. the long forced passage to the west, below the level of the present entrance, is supposed to have been made at =that time; from which we may conclude that he found the pyramid so carefully closed, that the stone could not be discovered which stopped the entrance. And in order more effectually to die- ceive those who should attempt to vio- late the tomb, the Egyptians had placed the passage 23 ft. from the centre, being 401 ft. from the western, and 355 from the eastern face, measuring from the middle of the passage, along the base of the pyramid; each of whose sides, when entire with the casing, was 756 ft. The object of the Caliph was the discovery of treasure. Tradition, or the accounts of ancient writers, with whose works the Arabs at that period had become acquainted, had informed them of the existence of chambers and a closed passage, and the engineers of the day were required to discover the entrance, and open the pyramid. They commenced, as was natural enough, and as the Egyptians foresaw, in the centre of the face, and forced their way through the solid masonry. The labour must have been excessive. But when they had penetrated to the distance of about 100 ft.. the sound, or the falling of some stones, accidentally disclosed the vicinity of the real pas- sage, 15 ft. to their left, by which they continued to the great gallery and the two chambers. As they returned, they cleared the real passage to its mouth, being more commodious than the rough way they had forced, for the ingress and egress of the workmen. Access was at length obtained to the place of the wished-for treasures, and great hopes were entertained, say the Arab historians, of finding a rich reward for their toil. But these hopes were doomed to end in disappoint- ment. The pyramid was found to have been previously entered and ri- fled, and the Caliph was about to abandon his vain search, when the people began to evince their discontent and to censure his ill-placed avidity. To check their murmurs, he had re- course to artifice. He secretly ordered a large sum of money to be conveyed to, and buried in, the innermost part of the excavated passage; and the subsequent discovery of the supposed treasure, which was found to be about equal to what had been expended, satisfied the people; and the Caliph gratified his own curiosity at the ex- pense of their labour, their money, and their unsuspecting credulity. Abd- el-Hokm says that a statue resembling a man was found in the sarcophagus, and in the statue (mummy-case) was a body, with a breastplate of gold and jewels, bearing characters written with a pen which no one understood. Others mention an emerald vase of beau- tiful workmanship. But the authority of Arab writers is not always to be relied on; and it may be doubted whether the body of the king was really deposited in the sarcophagus. Lord Munster found in the second pyramid the bones of an ox, which he brought with him to England: but from these no conclusion can be drawn, as they may have been taken into it after it was opened, either by men or wild beasts; neither of whom were aware how much they might puzzle future antiquaries with speculations about the bones of Apis. That both the pyramids had been opened before the time of the Arabs is exceedingly probable, as we find the Egyptians themselves had in many instances plundered the tombs of Thebes; and the fact of its having been closed again is consistent with expe- rience in other places. Belzoni's tomb had been rifled and re-closed, and the same is observed in many.Theban tombs, when discovered by modern excavators. The forced passage of the Caliph could once be followed for a great distance from the point where the upper and lower passages join; but it is now filled with stones, brought, I believe, from the late excavations in the pyramid. Pliny mentions a well in the great pyramid 86 cubits or 129 ft. in depth, by which it was supposed that the water of the Nile was admitted; but this may only have been known to him by report, and does not prove that 168 Sect. II. PYRAMID OF CHEOPS. the pyramid was open in his time. The same remark applies to the stone said by Strabo to close the mouth of the passage. With regard to the ad- mission of the water of the Nile, mentioned by Herodotus, the much lower level of the river at once pre- vents the possibility of its having been introduced by a canal into the pyramid, the base of which is, even now, up- wards of 100 ft. above the surface of the highest inundation, and was more in the time of Herodotus, and still more again at the period of its erec- tion. That a well in the pyramid might have been deep enough to reach the water is certain, but it could not rise to surround the lowest chambers, now seen at the bottom of the passage; and unless other chambers exist from 20 to 30 ft. below the level of this one, the water could not have surrounded them, even were the Nile at its present level. Much less could it have done so in the time of Suphis. At all events, a canal from the Nile is out of the question, and quite unnecessary; as the Egyptians must have known that by digging to a certain depth the water always oozes through the soil and the clay that forms the base of the rocksl : * and if they wished to form chambers surrounded by water, they had only to make them at a certain level below the ground to obtain this result. Pliny mentions the report of this eanal; but though he says, very properly, that the Nile is lower than the pyramids, he does not express any opinion respecting the possibility of the water being admitted round the underground chamber. The well he speaks of is not what now bears that name, but probably the one in the chamber at the end of the lower pas- sage; the former agreeing neither with the measurement he gives (which it exceeds by about 70 ft.), nor with the object for which it was supposed to have been intended. The use of the present well, connecting the two pas- * Of the level of the water in the wells, compared with the Nile and the base of the pyramid, see much curious information in the Appendix of Colonel Howard Vyse's book, vol. ii. p. 148. [Egypt.] sages, was, as I have already said, for the exit of the workmen. In going into the pyramid, I need scarcely suggest the necessity of being provided with candles and a lantern, lucifers, and a supply of water; and a long stick to raise a light upon, in examining the upper part of the rooms, may be useful. I should also recom- mend a cloak, to put on in coming out, particularly in the evening, which is by no means a bad time for visiting the interior. It may be as well not to intrust it to the care of the Arabs, when not wanted within the pyramid, as they are not particularly clean. I do not presume to explain the real object for which the pyramids were built, but feel persuaded that they served for tombs, and were also intended for astronomical purposes. For though it is in vain to look for the pole-star in latitude 30�, at the bottom of a passage descending at an angle of 27�, or to imagine that a closed passage, or a pyramid covered with a smooth inaccessible casing, was intended for an observatory, yet the form of the exterior might lead to many useful calculations. They stand exactly due N. and S.; and while the direction of the faces, E. and W., might serve to fix the return of a certain period of the year, the shadow cast by the sun at the time of its coinciding with their slope might be observed for a similar pur- pose. The angle of the face was 52', or, according to Golonel Howard Vyse's more minute measurement, 510 50'; and that the pyramids presented a smooth exterior surface (generally, though perhaps not quite correctly, called the easing) is very evident, not only from the portion that still remains on that of Cephren, but from the state- ments of ancient authors, and from some of the stones found on the spot. In Pliny's time both the pyramids seem still to have had this exterior tier of stones, which was probably not stripped off until the time of the ca- liphs; and according to the account of ancient writers, the people of the neighbouring village of Busiris were paeid by strangers for climbing them, I Cairo. 169 1I70 CAIRO.-EXOURSION 4, d. Sect. II. as the fellahs of El Kafr now are, for I am far from pretending that my going over the smooth part of the se- own measurements are more correct cond pyramid. Diodorus also speaks than the above, which have been taken of rude steps cut on the side of that of with so much care, and by persons so Cephren, the whole, no doubt, being capable of the task' but such is the then covered with a smooth exterior; difficulty of measuring the ill-defined and if we may believe Abd e' Lateef, exterior of the pyramid, that no two the dilapidation of the pyramids took measurements agree, and, if taken place at a late period, along the ground, can seldom be de- The. dimensions of the great pyra- pended on. I may therefore state the mid have been variously stated at manner in which my measurements different times by ancient and modern were taken, which appears to me the writers. According to my own obser- least liable to error, and leave others vations- to decide on the spot respecting' their It covered an area of about 571,536 accuracy. This was done by ascend- square ft. ing to one of the tiers, near the en- The length of each face, when entire, trance, and measuring in an uninter- was 756 ft. by measurement. rupted line from one end of the Its perpendicular height, when en- pyramid to the other, free from all tire, was 480 ft. 9 by calculation, accumulation of sand or other inequa- Its present base is 732 ft. by mea- lities; and then, by letting fall an surement. imaginary perpendicular to the ground, Its present perpendicular height is and adding the base of the small trian- 460 ft. by calculation, gle at each corner (where the casing- Present area 535,824 square ft. stone rested in the rock), the measure- ment of the whole side was determined. It has been said to corer the same The outermost stone at the N.E. cor- space as Lincoln's Inn Fields; which ner of this pyramid is a piece of the is not far from the truth, judging from rock itself hewn into the proper shape a rough calculation of paces, by which to form the corner stone; and as there I found the area of that place to con- appears to have been an outer tier tain about 550,000 square ft., the beyond this, we may suppose the lower breadth being more one way than the tier was of granite, as in the 2nd pyra- other. The solid contents of the pyra- mid. mid have been calculated as 85,000,000 For the heights I am indebted to cubic ft.;. and it has been computed the angle given by Colonel Vyse, that there is space enough in this mass which, with the half-base, gives the of masonry for 3700 rooms of the same altitude much more accurately than by size as the king's chamber, leaving the any other measurement. The side, contents of every second chamber solid, then, 378 (the half of 756), with the by way of separation. Colonel How- angle 51� 50', requires a perpendicular ard Vyse gives the following mea- of 480 ft. 9, and, deducting 20 ft. for surements :- the fallen apex, leaves 460 ft. 9 for the present height. The base of the apex, Former base (of great pyra- Feet. In. 32 ft., by a similar calculation, gives mid) .. .. .. .. 764 0 about 20 for its perpendicular, and Present base . .... .. 746 0 this deducted from the 480 ft. 9 is pre- Present height perpendicular 450 9 ferable to any other calculation of the Present height inclined .. 568 3 present height. It is also evident by Former height inclined .. 611 0 the same process, that, with the base Perpendicular height by casing given by Colonel Vyse, the angle 510 stones .. ...... .. 480 9 50' would require the perpendicular Angle of casing stones .... 510 50' height when entire to be 486 ft., and Acres. Rds. Poles. at present, without the apex of 20 ft., Former extent of base 13 1 22 466 ft. Present extent of base 12 3 3 We have seen, according to the SECOND PYRAMID. statement of Herodotus, that 100,000 men were employed in the construc- tion of this pyramid, and in cutting and transporting the stones from the Arabian mountain, who were relieved every 3 months by the same number; and besides the 20 years employed in erecting the pyramid itself, 10 more were occupied in constructing the causeway, and a considerable time in making the subterraneous chambers, and in clearing and levelling the hill on which it stands. This last may also include the nucleus over which it is built. Herodotus says the whole time employed in building the two py- ramids was 106 years, without stating how long the 3rd took for its comple- tion; but Pliny only gives 78 years and 4 months for the whole three. The number of men employed about the great pyramid he reckons at 360,000, which is 40,000 less than the calcula- tion of the historian, whose 100,000 every three months require a total of 400,000 men. The number of years taken to complete this pyramid is stated by the naturalist to have been 20; in which he agrees with Herodo- tus, if the time occupied in clearing the rock be not reckoned in that ac- count; and it is reasonable to suppose that the great pyramid, and the works connected with it, occupied more time- than the neighbouring one; the cause- ways both on the E. and W. sides of the Nile being already made. The total of 78 years for the three, given by Pliny, therefore appears more consist- ent with probability than the 106 for the two stated by Herodotus; 50 and 56 years being too much for two succes- sive reigns. It would be curious to know the means employed by the Egyptians for raising the stones, and the exact form of the machines mentioned by Hero- dotus : the admirable skill with which the passages and chambers are con- structed shows the advancement of that people in architectural knowledge at the time of their erection, and we are not a little surprised to find Diodorus assert that machinery had not yet been invented. e. SECOND PYRAMID. The style of building in the second pyramid is inferior to that of the first, and the stones used in its construction were less carefully selected, though united with nearly the same kind of cement. The lowest tier of stones was of granite, but probably only the casing, as the expression of Herodotus, like that applied by Pliny to the third pyramid, does not require the granite to extend beyond the surface. That granite was employed for some portion at least of the outer part, or casing, of this pyramid, is sufficiently proved by the blocks that lie scattered about its base, among which I observed a corner- stone. The stones used in the body of this, as well as all the other pyra- mids, have been brought partly from the nummulite rocks of the neigh- bouring hills, partly from the quarries of the "Arabian mountain," on the opposite side of the river; and the casing-stones or outer layers were composed of blocks hewn from its compact strata. This mountain is the Troici lapidis icons of Ptolemy and Strabo ; and it is to it that Pliny alludes when he says, "The largest pyramid is formed of blocks hewn in the Arabian quarries." The mountain is now called Gebel Masarah, from a town below on the river; and the compound name Toora- Masarah is sometimes applied to it, from another village to the N., which, though bearing an Arabic name, sig- nifying "a canal," has every appear- ance of having been corrupted from the ancient Troja, or Vicus Trojanus. From this the hill was called Troici lapidis mons. The ascent of the second pyramid over the casing is difficult. In my first visit to these monuments, in 1821, before the real meaning of Herodotus's statement occurred to me, I went up to the summit of it, in order to ascer- tain something relative to its com- mencement from the top; I need scarcely say without being repaid for the trouble. My ascent was on the i2 Cairo. 171 W. face, which I either supposed to record of the ascent of some one rather be the easiest, on looking at it from more venturesome than a Cairene. I the ground, or probably from what I mention this in case any of my readers had heard before, being entirely alone should have an opportunity of copying when I went up. There is some diffi- it; at the same time that I recommend culty in mounting upon the projecting those who attempt the ascent to take casihg, which greatly overhangs the off their shoes. other part below it; and in descending The passages in the second pyramid over its smooth face it requires a are very similar to those of the first; good head, as in looking down be- but there is no gallery, and they lead tween your feet you see the plain only to one main chamber, in which below, while searching for a footing is a sarcophagus sunk in the floor. It in the small holes cut here and there is remarkable that this pyramid had to serve as steps. These, however, two entrances; an upper one, by have lately been made larger and which you now enter, and another more numerous. The portion of the about 60 feet below it, which, though casing that remains extends about one nearly cleared by Belzoni, was only quarter of the way from the present completely laid open by Colonel How- summit of the pyramid; and Colonel ard Vyse. Vyse calculates it at from 130 to 150 Like all the others, it had been feet, which I suppose to mean along entered by the Arabs and re-closed; the inclined face. On the top is a and when Belzoni opened it in 1816, level space, the apex being broken he found, from an inscription in the away; and on one of the stones is an chamber, that it had been visited Arabic inscription, of which I regret before by Sultan All Mohammed, by I did not take a copy, though it pro- whose order it was probably reclosed. bably contains little more than a The Arabic is as follows :- which, according to Mr. Salhmd's Mr. Salaim; the expression "closing interpretation, is, "The Master Mo- up " being alone doubtful. hammed, son of Ah.med, mason, has The opening of the second pyramid opened them; and also the Master was highly creditable to the enter- Othman was present: and the king, prising Belzoni; not from the mere Ali Mohammed, from the beginning employment of a number of men to to the closing up." Professor Lee seek or force a passage, but because gives it, "The Master Mohammed, the prejudices of the time were so son of Al.med, the stonecutter, first strong against the probability of that opened them; and upon this occasion pyramid containing any chambers. were present El Melek Othman, and One hundred and thirty feet from the Master Othman, and Mohammed the mouth of the upper passage was a Lugleik." If this were the correct read- granite portcullis : and the other was ing, the opening of the second pyramid closed in the same manner about 100 would be fixed to the year 1200, during feet from its entrance. A little beyond the short reign of El Melek el-Azees- the latter portcullis is a long narrow Othman, the second son and immediate chamber; and the passage is after- successor of Saladin; but it is not borne wards united with the upper one by out by the copy given by Belzoni, an ascending talus. The dimensions which is very correctly translated by of this pyramid are- 172 CAIRO.-'EXURSION 4-, e. Sect. II. THIRD PYRAMID. Present length of the base 690 feet by measurement. Present height perpendicular 446 ft. 9 in. by calculation, taking the angle 52? 20', given by Colonel Vyse. Former height perpendicular, about 453 feet by calculation, allowing for the fallen apex.. Colonel Howard Vyse gives- Feet. In. The former base ...... ... 707 9 Present base ......... ... 690 9 Former perpendicular height 454 3 Present perpendicular height 447 6 Passage eastward from the centre of face ...... ... 43 10 Angle 52� 20'. Acres. Roods. Poles. Former extent of base 11 1 38 Present extent of base 10 3 30 This pyramid was probably built by Shafre (fig. d, p. 179), who is called "of the little pyramid;" and enlarged after his time to the above dimensions. It stands on higher ground than the great pyramid, and has, when seen from certain positions, the appearance of greater height. An area sunk in the rock runs round its northern and western face, parallel with the pyra- mid, distant from it on the N. 200, and on the W. 100 feet. In the scarp of the rock to the W. are a dozen tombs, in one of which (the 6th from the S.) the ceiling is remarkable, the stone being cut in imitation of palm- tree beams, reaching from wall to wall Another instance of this occurs at a tomb of about the same date, at Ratineh in Upper Egypt. This shows that the houses of the Egyptians (when the arch was not preferred) were some- times so roofed, as at the present day: the only difference being, that the beams were close together, while in modern houses they are at some dis- tance from each other, with planks or layers of palm-branches, and mats across them. And it is reasonable to suppose that the latter mode of placing the beams was also adopted by the ancient Egyptians. This tomb is the third from the line of the S.W. angle of the pyramid, going northwards along the face of the rock. The object of thus cutting away the rock was to level the ground for the base of the pyramid, the hill in this part having a slight fall towards the E. and S.; which is very evident from the N.W. corner of the scarped rock being of great height, 32 ft. 6 in., and gradually decreasing to its southern and eastern extremities. In the level surface below this corner the rock has been cut into squares, measuring about 9 ft. each way, similar to those at Tehneh near Minieh; showing the manner in which the blocks were taken out to form this hollow space, and to contribute at the same time their small share towards the con- struction of the pyramid. On the face of the rock on the W. and N. sides are two inscriptions in hieroglyphics. One contains the name of Remeses the Great, and of an individual who held the office of superintendent of certain functionaries supposed to be attached to the king, and officiating at Heliopo- lis. He is called Maia (deceased), the son of Bak ?-fi-Amun (also deceased), who once held the same office as his son. The inscription is in intaglio, and of much more modern style than the hieroglyphics in the neighbouring tombs; which would suffice to show, if, other evidence were wanting, how much older the latter, and conse- quently the pyramids themselves, are than this king. On the E. side, and about 270 ft. from the second pyramid, is a building which some suppose to have been a temple, not unlike that at the end of the causeway leading to the third pyramid. Under the brow of the rock, to the N. of it, at v, is an arched tomb, of the time of Psammetichus. f. TmRD PYRAMID.- SMALL PvYRMIs. The third pyramid, of Mycerinus (Mecherinus, Mencheres, or Mosche- ris), has been opened by Colonel Vyse. Its entrance, as of all the others, was found on the northern face. The chamber has a pent-roof, formed of stones placed one against Cairo. 173 the other, as that of the queen's cham- other Egyptian buildings, the stones ber in the great pyramid: and over were put up rough and afterwards this is a vacant space to prevent the smoothed off to a level surface. blocks pressing upon it. On going up Many of the stones, particularly in to this space or entresol, you look the tombs and the small pyramids, down upon the pent-roof. In the are not in the same horizontal straight chamber was discovered a stone sarco- line, and some of the joints arbitrarily phagus, which, when on its voyage to incline one way, some another, as in England, was unfortunately lost, the many buildings of early Greek time : a vessel having gone down at sea; but style which is looked upon as the tran- the wooden coffin, with the name of sition from Cyclopean and polygonal the king, Mencheres, or Mycerinus, to the more perfect mode of building in which it contained within it, is in the Greek architecture, where the stones British Museum, where there is also a break joint, and the courses are all body, found in the passage of this pyra- regular, as at the present day. But mid, lying between two large stones. the inclination of the stones in those The third, like all the other pyra- tombs and pyramids is irregular; it has mids, was found to have been opened no other object than to fit the stones by the Caliphs, and re-closed; and the to their accidental shape, and cannot record of Colonel Vyse's labours, in- be attributed to a particular style of scribed within them, very modestly building. Some have even fancied that claims only the merit of re-opening the courses of stones in the great pyra- them. It had been attempted before mid are slightly arched, or convex up- by the Memlooks, and then by M. wards, like the stylobates of Greek Jumel, a Frenchman in the employ of temples; but this is an error. the Pasha, who hoped to enter the The outer layers or casing of the pyramid from the upper part, and third pyramid were of granite, many who, after throwing down numerous of which still continue in their original stones, and making a large hole in the position at the lower part; nor can we north face, relinquished the under- doubt the justness of Pliny's remark, taking; having only succeeded in en- when he says "the third, though cumbering the spot where the entrance much smaller than the other two," really was, with a mass of broken was "much more elegant," from the stones, and rendering the operation "Ethiopian stone," or granite of Sy- more difficult for any one who should ene, with which it was clothed. He- afterwards attempt it. rodotus and Strabo say, this casing, The third pyramid shows the mode which the latter calls "black stone," of constructing these monuments only extended half way up; and Dio- (not perceived in the other two), dorus says to the 15th tier. It was in almost perpendicular degrees or left unfinished in consequence of the stories, to which a sloping face has king's death; but "the name of its been afterwards added. For it has founder was written on its northern been conjectured by Dr. Lepsius and face." Following Herodotus, he calls Mr. Wild, and doubtless with reason, him "Mycerinus; or, as some say, that all the pyramids were built in Mecherinus." The stones of the this manner, and that the statement of casing have bevelled edges; a style Herodotus, "that they finished them of masonry common in Syria, Greece, from the top," is explained by their and Rome; but round the entrance first filling up the triangular spaces of their surfaces are smooth, and of a the uppermost degrees. This is pre- 'lower level than the rest, as if some- ferable to my own interpretation of thing had been let into that depressed the expression E7r1OLeL, which I sup- part. Here perhaps were the hiero- posed to refer to the removal of the glyphics containing the name of My- projecting angles of the steps, to form cerinus, mentioned by Diodorus. the slope of the pyramid. It is, how- Herodotus, after telling us it was ever, true that at the pyramids, as in built by Mycerinus, the son of Cheops, Sect. II. 174 CAaIR. -EXCURSIONo N 49 f. THE SPHINX. and not by Rhodopis, gives some curious anecdotes of several persons, among whom are 1Esop and Sappho; but the conjecture mentioned by Dio- dorus, that it was founded by Inaron, is very far from the truth, if that king was the same as Inarus, he having lived as late as the reign of Artaxerxes Longimanus, about 3 years after Hero- dotus visited Egypt. Manetho, accord- ing to Eusebius and Africanus, attri- butes the third pyramid to Nitocris; and as it has been enlarged, it is not impossible that it was appropriated, after the days of Mlencheres, by Ni- toens, the last sovereign of the 6th dynasty. The measurements of the third pyra- mid are,- Present base 333'0 ft. by measure- ment. Present height perpendicular 203 ft. 7 by calculation with angle of 510 given by Col. Vyse. Colonel Vyse gives- Former base 354 ft. 6. Present height perpendicular 203 ft. Former height perpendicular 218 ft. (or 218 ft. 9?) Angle of casing 510. Acres. Roods. Poles. Extent of area .. .. 2 3 21. Present height of granite, perpen- dicular from base, 36'9 ft. on W. side, and 25"10 on N. side. On the S. side of this are 3 smaller pyramids. They each have a passage leading to a chamber; and in the centre one is the name of the king Mencheres (or Mycerinus), painted -on a stone in the roof of its cham- U ber, the same that occurs on the wooden coffin of the third pyramid. The roof is fiat, and above it is a space or entresol, as in the great pyramid, to protect it from the pressure of the upper part of the building. In the chamber is a sarcophagus of granite, without hieroglyphics or sculpture of any kind. The lid had been forced open before it was found by Colonel Vyse, and is remarkable for the inge- nious contrivance by which it was fastened. It was made to slide into a groove, like the sliding lids of our boxes; and its upper rim (which pro- jected on all sides to a level with the four outer faces of the sarcophagus) was furnished with a small moveable pin, that fell from the under part of it into a corresponding hole, and thus prevented the lid being drawn back. About 40 ft. from the eastern side of the third pyramid is the supposed temple before alluded to, at the upper end of the stone causeway; and around the spot where this cluster of monu- ments stands is an enclosure about 1200 ft. square, formed of rough stones heaped on each other in the form of a low rude wall. Similar heaps of stones occur in parallel rows to the northward of it, bounded by others which run parallel to the western face of the second pyramid. Descending by the causeway, about 350 ft. from the part where it is broken away, you come to a scarped piece of rock; and a little to the 1. is a tomb, with hieroglyphics and figures in relief hewn in the stone, for many years the abode of a Moslem saint. Among the sculptures are some musicians and other scenes; and on the wall, nearly over the doorway, are some lines of hieroglyphics, with the name of Men- kheres, or Mycerinus, of the 3rd pyra- mid. Five hundred ft. thence, to the N.E., are other smaller tombs, with the name of a very early king, and a few sculptures, among which is a gazelle with its young fawn-a graceful little group, very creditable to the taste of the draughtsman. g. THE SPHINX. Little more than the eighth of a mile from these tombs to the S.E. are some pits, and a stone ruin of some size on a rock, by some supposed to have been a pyramid. The angle of its faces is about 750. About 800 ft. from this ruin, to the N.E., is the Sphinx, stand- ing 102 ft. N. of a line drawn from the S.E. corner (or from the plane of the original S. face) of the second py- ramid. Pliny is quite correct in saying that it is cut in the rock, part only of the back being cased with stone, where Cairo. 175 CAIRO.-EXCURSION 4, g. the rock was defective; and the asser- tion of Dr. Clarke, "that the pedestal proves to be a wretched substructure of brickwork and small pieces of stone, put together like the most insignificant piece of modern masonry," is as un- founded as that "the French uncovered all the pedestal of this statue, and all the recumbent or leonine parts of the figure,'" which, it is well known, were first cleared from the sand by the labours of Mr. Salt and Signor Ca- viglia. The whole is cut out of the solid rock, with the exception of the forelegs, which, with the small portion above mentioned, are of hewn stone; nor is there any pedestal, but a paved dromos in front of it, on which the paws repose. They extend to the dis- tance of 50 ft. An altar, three tablets, a lion, and some fragments were discovered there ; but no entrance could be found in that part. The altar stands between the two paws; and it is evident, from its position, that sacrifices were performed before the sphinx, and that processions took place along the sacred area, which extended between the forelegs to the breast, where a sort of sanctuary stood, composed of three tablets. One of these, of granite, attached to the breast (the top of which may still be seen above the sand), formed the end of the sanc- tuary; and two others, one on the rt., the other on the 1., of limestone, formed the two sides. The last have been both removed. At the entrance of the sanc- tuary two low jambs projected, to form a doorway, in the aperture of which was a crouched lion, looking towards the sphinx and the central tablet. It is supposed that the fragments of other lions found near this spot indicated their position on either side of the door- way, and others seem to have stood on similar jambs near the altar. On the granite tablet King Thothmes IV. is represented offering on one side in- cense, on the other a libation (of oil or ointment ?) to the figure of a sphinx, the representative, no doubt, of the colossal one above, with the beard and other attributes of a god. He seems to have the title of Re (the Sun) in his resting-place, Re-ma-shoi ? (Re-s- shoi ?) or perhaps Hor-ma-shoi? from which no doubt he was styled "the Sun, Armachis," in the Greek inscription of Balbillus, which I shall mention presently. Like other deities, he is said to grant "power" and "pure life" to the king; and there is no doubt that, as Pliny observes, this sphinx had the character of a local deity, and was treated with divine honours by the priests, and by strangers who visited the spot. Over the upper part of the picture is the usual winged globe, the emblem of Agathodmemon. The side tablets have similar representations of a king offer- ing to a sphinx, who has the attributes and name of the same deity. This king is Remeses the Great; so that the side walls of the sanctuary were not added till about 90 years after the granite tablet. The deification of the sphinx is sin- gular, because that fanciful animal is always found to bean emblematical re- presentation of the king, the union of intellect and physical force; and is of common occurrence in that character on the monuments of early and later Pharaonic periods. Some Greek exvotos, or dedicatory inscriptions, were cut upon the paws, one of which, restored by Dr. Young, ran as follows :- "ov seeaq EK TayX0ov 'Evav OEOt MLEV COV7e6 sEcoaLEVOC xwp nq rvptsa Pagoevens-" Ecs eoov evOvvav7-eq apovpactoo TparEIg, Nvl-ov 7r2-rpavn)7 ,a qov a 'oaTL EvoL" reT rova rvpa cwv rsov O eoav ec'opaaov0at, Ov rqv Oc1oSao pporoK rovov, ws m e , Pas, T Se Oe APo-s rporoXov ayvora'nv, (Ev . Ma) vgpouav reroO-pevov crOAov e OaKTa, eads Aeyvroto oefeao-ptov y-Tpa, Ovpaveov eyav avropEsoVTea (Oeoeo'v O~aetsov), Etckov Hoeeeomp, EyaA7qope (0V oXEoV7ee), (AXKC, ov v roXajg, KaL Epawov ev 7roXv1-eems) racav avpacrOea (Traoea Oakcaccr KeXoVea)" Appeavos. To the same learned and accom- plished scholar we are indebted for translations of the inscription above, one in Latin, the other in English verse; which last I transcribe :- Sect. II. "Thy form stupendous here the gods have sphinx itself, on whose right cheek placed, some Arab characters have been Sparing each spot of harvest-bearing land; slightly scratched. Among them I And with this mighty work of art have graced A rocky isle, encumbered once with sand; observed the name of Ibrahim, pro- And near the pyramids have bid thee stand: bably some visitor who recorded his Not that fierc sphinx that Thebes erewhile admiration of this colossal figure. It laid waste, But great Latona's servant, mild and bland; is known to the Arabs by the name Watching that prince beloved who fills the of Aboolh6l (" the father of terror"), like throne the great Colossus at Memphis. Of Egypt's plains, and calls the Nile his own. Two flights of steps, one after the That heavenly monarch (who his foes defies), Like Vulcan powerful (and like Pallas wise) other, led down to the area before the AlaAN." sphinx from the plain above, and in the landing-place between them was a The inscription is remarkable from small isolated building or altar, and its allusion to the isolated position of another at the foot of the uppermost this monument of rock, and the notion flight, on which were 2 columns. It of the Egyptians sparing the culti- is this hollow space or area which vable land, of which many instances gave so much trouble to clear from occur in the foundation of towns on the sand that had for ages been accu- the edge of the desert. " The signa- mulating within it, and so great is the ture, too," as the writer in the Quar- quantity which collects there that it terly Review observes, "gives it a was soon nearly filled as before, and more than common interest; which every successive attempt to clear it re- will not be weakened if it should be quires the same labour to be repeated. decided that it is to be ascribed to the This accumulation of sand was in celebrated historian whom Gibbon has former times prevented by crude brick- dignified with the epithet of the 'ele- walls, remains of which are still vi- gant and philosophical Arrian.' " sible; and it is probably to them that On the right face were found some the inscription set up there in the exvetos to Mars, Harpocrates, and time of "Antoninus and Verus" al- Hermes; and, in one inscription, ludes, in noticing the restoration of where the emperor "Nero Claudius" the walls. has the dignified title of "Agathode- Pliny says they suppose it the tomb mon," after mentioning the benefits of Amasis, a tradition which arose, no conferred on Egypt by the appoint- doubt, from the resemblance of the ment :of Tiberius Claudius Balbillus as name of the king, by whose order the prefect, it is stated that "the inhabit- rock was cut into this form, Thothmes ants of the village of Busiris, in the or Thothmosis, to that of the Saite :Ltopolite nome, living near the pyra- Pharoah. The oval of the 4th Thoth- gkid4~ 4id the scribes of the district mes occurs in the hieroglyphic insbrip- aud village have resolved on erecting tion on its breast; but from the known a stone tablet (stela) to Armachis." architectural whims of the third of It also mentions a record of their that name, it is not improbable that benefactor's virtues, in the " sacred he was the originator of this singular character;" showing that a hierogly- monument, and that Thethmes IV. phic inscription in honour of Balbillus may have added this inscription, as may still be looked for in the vicinity; Remeses II. did those on the side and he is said to have worshipped the tablets. The mistake of assigning the sun, the protecting deity of the place, sphinx to Amasis may also be ae- previously alluded to under the name counted for by the simple fact that of Armachis. the Greeks and Romans were better The remains of red colour were acquainted with his name than that of traced upon the lions, as well as on the earlier Pharaohs: and Lucan has the fragments of a small sphinx gone further, and given to Amasis the found near the tablets; and the same pyramids themselves. In another place may be seen on the face of the great he even buries the Ptolemies in those 13 Cairo. 177 THE SPHINX. monuments. Lucan, however, was not Howard Vyse, and called, after our famous either for accuracy or poetical consul-general, " Campbell's tomb." It composition; though we may indul- consists of a large square pit cut in gently forgive any fancy of the an- the rock to the depth of 53 ft. 6 in., cients, when one modern writer buries and measuring 30 ft. 6 in. E. and W., the patriarch Joseph in the great py- and 26 ft. 3 in. N. and S. The massive ramid, and others confound the son of circuit of rock in which the pit is cut Jacob with Sarapis, or condemn him is surrounded by a large trench 68 ft. to be worshipped by the Egyptians square and 73 ft. deep, and - in the under the form of Apis. space between the trench and the pit The cap of the sphinx, which was are a passage leading to the latter, and the ram's horns and feathers, or more two other small pits, from one of which probably the pshent, has long since a sarcophagus, now in the British Mu- been removed; but a cavity in the scum, was taken. The large pit is not head attests,its position, and explains in the centre, that is, equidistant on all the method by which it was fixed, sides from the tronch, but about 21 ft. The mutilated state of the face, and from it on the S., about half that on the absence of the nose, have led many the N., and about 9 ft. on the E. and W. to the erroneous conclusion that the In the large pit is a coffin of black features were African; but, by taking basalt, still in its place, covered with a an accurate sketch of the face, and stone case or sarcophagus, over which restoring the nose, any one may con- was raised a stone arch of the time of vince himself that the lips, as well as Psammetichus I., which I regret to say the rest of the features, perfectly agree has been taken down, as I was told, with the physiognomy of an Egyptian. by the Shekh of Kerdassy, to build a Pliny says it measured from the belly water-wheel, or some equally import- to the highest point of the head 63 ft., ant work. The whole of this tomb its length was 143, and the circum- was very curious, and one feature was ference of its head round the forehead remarkable, that the walls of the arch 102 ft., all cut out in the natural rock, stood on a bed of sand about 22 ft. and worked smooth. Two hundred thick; but for the plan, section, and and five ft. S.S.E. from the sphinx is description of it, I refer the reader to a large tomb, measuring 109 ft. by 90, Col. Vyse's book, lately opened by M. Mariette (at a spot In the high plain between this and marked in my former plan as having the great pyramid are several pits some unopened pits); and from its where sarcophagi are found, frequently passages being lined with granite, of black basalt; one of which, with a and some with Oriental alabaster (or, lid in the form of the dwarf deity of as the Italians more properly call it, Memphis, Pthah Sokari, is still lying Egyptian alabaster), it evidently be- on the ground above. Near it is the longed to an individual of consequence. pit where the gold ring, bearing the It seems also to have been of early name of Suphis, was found 15 years time. Adjoining it appears to be a ago, which passed into the collection similar tomb still unopened. of the late Dr. Abbott. On three sides of the great pyramid are the tombs of private individuals, h. Tonins. who were mostly priests, some of them In the perpendicular face of the low at Memphis, others of the temple of rock behind the sphinx are the re- Shofo, but not, as Mr. Salt supposed, mains of tombs, one of which, dis- the chief people of Heliopolis. They covered in 1820 by Mr. Salt, had an are most numerous to the westward: interesting representation of Osiris and and in one of them, marked Q in my its deceased inmate, named Pet-pasht, plan, near the extremity of this ceme- or Petubastes. tery, are some interesting sculptures. About 180 ft. behind this rock is a Trades, boats, a repast, dancing, agri- very curious tomb, discovered by Col. cultural scenes, the farm, tLe wine- 178 CAIROo.--EXOUrnsrroN , h. Sect. II. TOMBS. press, and other subjects, are there represented; and it is worthy of re- mark that the butchers slaughtering an ox sharpen their 'red knives on a blue rod, which would seem to indi- cate the uge of steel at this early period. In the sculptures columns with the full-blown lotus capital are represented, and the man of the tomb seated in an armed chair of very early form on a figured mat, very like those now made in the Delta. Beneath his chair is a favourite dog. The long passage in this tomb has the roof made in imitation of an arch, the tympanum at the end being a single block. The names of Suphis (a) and another Pha- raoh (c) occur in the sculptures; and in a 4[ a C - -: the next tomb to the S. are the names of Suphis and other old kings; Aimai, the possessor of the tomb, having been director of the temple of Suphis (Shofo). Three names of early kings occur in the tomb adjoining that of Trades to the N. There are also these names (b d) in several of the tombs, the first of which b (b) is found (as well d as that of Suphis (a) ) in the great pyramid. Many of the tombs have false entrances,and seve- ral have pits with their mouths at the top of the tomb, as in the larger ones to the E. of the pyramid. Some of the tombs are of considerable size, though of no great height; they are all built with their sides inclining inwards towards the top, at an angle of 770; and we may conclude that, while the smaller tombs belonged to private families or individuals, some of the large ones served as public burial- places for the less wealthy classes. To the S.E. of the S.E. angle of the pyra- mid are two tombs with a few hiero- glyphics. Over the false door in each of them is the name of an early king (Senofro), and on the wall e opposite the false door of the eastern- most tomb are some herons and animals of the country. This Senofro (or Senofr) has been placed by Dr. Lepsius before Shofo (Suphis); but as the po- sition of these tombs is regulated by that of the great pyramid, Senofro was evidently a later king than its founder. In the eastern face of the rocky height on which the tombs and pyra- mids stand, are other tombs containing sculpture, and the names of Shofo (Suphis) and other ancient kings. One of them, a little below the line of the rocks, and nearly in a line with the S.E. angle of the great pyramid, contains a curious and satisfactory specimen of the Egyptian numbers, from units to thousands, prefixed to goats, cattle, and asses, which are brought before the scribes, to be re- gistered as part of the possessions of the deceased. Unfortunately, however, part of the roof has lately fallen in, and it requires a fresh excavation to clear the sculptures. This inventory of stock alludes to the weekly, monthly, or yearly census made for the owner of the estate, dur- ing his lifetime; and not, as might be supposed from being in a tomb, after his death; he himself being present to receive the report. The subjects re- lating to the manners and customs of the Egyptians, so common in their tombs, are intended to show their ordinary occupations, and are a sort of epitome of life, or the career of man on earth, previous to his admission to the mansions of the dead. They are, therefore, illustrative of the habits of the people in general, and are not confined exclusively to the occupant of the tomb. On the wall opposite the entrance are 3 false doorways, of a style rarely met with, except in the vicinity of the pyramids :-not very unlike those at the end of the Egyptian gallery in the Oairo. 179 British Museum, which came from a may reckon it at 600 or 610 ft., which tomb near the sphinx. In the floor will require this causeway to have been before each is a pit, where the bodies 3000 or 3050 ft. in length, a measure- were buried; and I have generally ment agreeing very well with the observed that a pit may be looked for 1000 yards of Pococke, though we can beneath these false doors, as before the now no longer trace it for more than stele in the walls of tombs at Beni 1424 ft.; the rest being buried by the Hassan and other places. increase of the alluvial deposit of the Some sculpture and hieroglyphics inundation'. Its present breadth is may also be found in tombs under the only 32 ft., the outer faces having brow of the rock, near the northern fallen; but the height of 85 exceeds causeway. There are also some later that given by Herodotus; and it is tombs to the E. and E.S.E. of the evident, from the actual height of the 2nd pyramid, which have arched roofs hill, from 80 to 85 ft., to whose surface of ) stone. But the most curious the causeway necessarily reached, and arched tomb is that to the N. of the from his allowing 100 ft. from the supposed temple on the E. side of the plain to the top of this hill, that the 2nd pyramid, which I have already expression 8 orgyes (48 ft.) is an over- noticed. It has columns before it, and sight either of the historian or his is of the time of Psammetichus, in the copyists. It was repaired by the ca- 7th century B.c. liphs and Memlook kings, who made The tombs at n in the plan have the use of the same causeway to carry names of Shafrd and other early kings: back to the "Arabian shore" those andin one of them are represented glass- blocks that had before cost so much blowers, and in the adjoining one the time and labour to transport from its gazelle which has given its name to mountains; and several of the finest that tomb. (See above, fyig. d, p. 179.) buildings of the capital were construct- There is also a tomb with figures in ed with the stones of the quarried high relief lately opened (at w in the pyramid. plan), whose curved cornice shows it There does not appear to have been to be of a later period than those be- any causeway exclusively belonging hind the great pyramid. to the 2nd pyramid, unless we suppose it to have been taken away when no i. CAUSEWAY. longer required, and the stones used The southern causeway I have already for other purposes; and were it not mentioned in speaking of the 3rd pyra- for the presence of the causeway of the mid, to which it seems to have been 3rd pyramid, we might attribute the intended to convey the stones up the northern one to the caliphs, and thus hill from the plain, after having been explain the statement of Diodorus, who brought from the river. I stated it says, that, owing to the sandy base on was broken; but at the base of the which it was built, it had entirely dis- rocky height, to the S. of the well and appeared in his time. There are, in- palm-trees, the continuation of it ap- deed, many black stones, a sort of pears, with an opening in the centre basaltic trap, lying some way to the for the passage of persons travelling by S. of the great causeway, which might the edge of the desert during the high be supposed to have belonged to, and Nile. The stones were, no doubt, to point out the site of, a fallen cause- carried on sledges by these causeways way; and others of the same kind of to the pyramids. That of the great stone appear near the centre of the pyramid is described by Herodotus as eastern face of the great pyramid, as 5 stades long, 10 orgyes (fathoms) if forming part of the same work. broad, and 8 high, of polished stones There is some probability of the cause- adorned with the figures of animals way having been made of hard stone (hieroglyphics) ; and it took no less of this kind; the same basaltic blocks than 10 years to complete it. Though are found near the other pyramids of the size of the stade is uncertain, we Abodseer and Sakl.ira; and if the 180 CAIRO.--ECURSON 4, Z. Sect. II. SMALL PYRAMIDS - DATE OF PYRAMIDS. tombs interfere with the line it took, we may account for this by supposing them to have been built after the py- ramid was completed, and the cause- way no longer wanted. Again, it is more likely that the causeway should carry the stones towards the centre, than to the corner, of the pyramid; and the direction of the present cause- way, instead of being towards the spot whence the stones were brought, is in the line of Cairo. This certainly seems to indicate an Arab origin. On the ether hand, that of the 3rd pyramid is not of black stone; it is evidently Egyptian, and not Arab work: no mention is made by Herodotus or others of black stone; and the same expression of " polished stones" is applied to this as to the pyramid ;- all which are strong arguments in favour of the present causeway being the original one built by Cheops, subse- quently repaired by the Arab sultans. j. SMALL PYRAMIDS NEAR THAT OF CHEOPS-NATURE OF THE ROC. To the E. of the great pyramid are 3 smaller ones, built in degrees or stages, somewhat larger than the 3 on the S. of the pyramid of Mycerinus. The centre one is stated by Herodotus to have been erected by the daughter of Cheops, of whom he relates a ridicu- lous story, only surpassed in improba- bility by another he tells of the daugh- ter of Rhampsinitus. It is 122 ft. square, which is less than the measure- ment given by the historian of 1 plethrum, or about 150 ft.; but this difference may be accounted for by its ruined condition. About 180 ft. to the N. of the northernmost of these 3 small pyramids, and 300 to the E. of that of Cheops, is a passage cut in the rock, descending from the N., and as- cending again to the S., which might be supposed to mark the site of a 4th pyramid, did not Herodotus, by men- tioning 3 only, prove that none existed there in his time. Near this face of the great pyramid are 3 trenches of considerable size, which some have supposed to be intended for mixing the mortar; there are also some smaller trenches, and steps cut in the rock, in various places near the great pyramid, the object of which it is not easy to de- termine. The rock hereabouts abounds in nummulites and other fossil remains, common, as Pliny justly observes, in the mountains of the African chain, but which Strabo supposed to be the petrified residue of the barley and lentils of the workmen. Lentils, no doubt, constituted their principal food, together with the 3 roots, figl, onions, and garlic, mentioned by Herodotus, all of which are still in common use among the lower orders of Egyptians; and when we see the errors of the present day, we readily forgive the geographer for his fanciful conclusion. The nummulite is the Nautilus Mam- milla, or Lenticularis. k. DATE OF THE PYRAMIDS. Respecting the date of the pyra- mids, it is very evident that Herodo- tus is far from right when he places Cheops (or Suphis) after Mceris and Sesostris, who were kings of the 12th dynasty. He also confounds the ori- ginal Sesostris of Manetho's 12th dy- nasty with Remeses the Great, of the 19th; which has led to the mistakes made by Greek writers respecting this king. It is probable that the pyramids are the oldest monuments in Egypt, or, indeed, in the world; but there is no- thing to enable us to ascertain their exact date. At all events, the opinions of those who conclude, from the pyra- mids not being mentioned in the Bible, nor by Homer, that they did not exist before the Exodus, nor at the time of the poet, are totally inadmissible; and we may, with equal readiness, reject the assertion of those who pretend that the Jews aided in their construction. With regard to the notion that those kings were foreigners, argu- ments may be found both to refute and support it. The style of archi- tecture, the sculptures in the tombs, and the scenes they represent, are all Egyptian; and there are no subjects relating to another race, or to cus- toms differing from those of the coun- try. On the other hand, the aversion rO. 181 CAIRO.--EXCURSION 4, 1, m. stated by Herodotus to have been felt by the Egyptians for the memory of their founders, if really true, would accord with the oppression of foreign tyrants; other strangers who ruled in Egypt employed native architects and sculptors; and it is remarkable that, with the exception of the sphinx, Campbell's tomb, and a few others, the pyramids and the monuments about them are confined to nearly the same period. But however strong the last may appear in favour of a foreign dynasty, it must be remembered that all the tombs of Beni Hassan were made within the short period of 2 or 3 reigns; and many other cemeteries seem to have been used for a limited time, both at Thebes and other places. The Memphite kings too, whose names occur at the pyramids, were displaced by the Shepherds; and when the Egyptians expelled those foreigners, the kingdom passed into the hands of another dynasty, the Diospolitans of the 18th, who lived at Thebes; hence no mention of any of these kings is found here, except on the sphinx and the rock near the 2nd pyramid. Suphis probably lived in 2400 B.c. is another stone ruin; and a causeway 30 ft. broad leads up to the height on which they both stand, from the north- ward; the length of which is said by Colonel Howard Vyse to be 4950 ft. A great quantity of granite is scattered around the pyramid, mostly broken into small fragments, with which (if ever finished) it was probably once cased. From the hill is a fine view over the valley of the Nile; and being much higher than that of the great pyramids, it commands them, and has the advantage of showing them in an interesting position, with those of Aboosier, Sakkara, and Dash6or in the distance. This view is also remark- able from its explaining the expression "peninsula, on which the pyramids stand," used to denote the isolated position of the hill. It is the same that Pliny applies to the isolated rocky district about Syene. At the eastern extremity of the hills of Abooroash are some massive crude brick walls, and the ruins of an ancient village, with a few uninteresting tombs in the rock; and in the sandy plain to the S. of them is the tomb of the shekh who has given his name, Abooroash, to the ruined pyramid. 1. PYRAMID OF ABOOROASH. m. THE TWO ARAB BRIDGES. At Abooroish, about 5 m. to the A little more than one-third of the northward, is another ruined pyra- way from the pyramids of Geezeh to mid, which from the decomposed Abooroash, you pass, some way inland condition of the stone, has the appear- to the rt., the two stone bridges of seve- ance of still greater age than those of ral arches built by the Arab sultans. Geezeh. It stands on a ridge of hills They have each 2 Arabic inscriptions, that skirt the desert behind Kerdisseh, mentioning the king by whom they and forms the southern side of a large were built,and'thedate of their erection. valley, a branch of the Bahr el Fargh, The westernmost of the 2 has on one which I shall have occasion to mention side the name of Naser Mohammed, presently. The pyramid itself has the son of Kalaoon, with the date only about 5 or 6 courses of stone 716 A. H. (1317-18 A. D.); and on the remaining, and contains nothing but other that of El Ashraf Abool Nusar an underground chamber, to which a Kaidbay e' Zaheree, with the date broad inclined passage, 160 ft. long, 884 A. H. (A. D. 1480). The eastern descends at an angle of 22� 35' on the bridge has the name of the latter north side. According to the measure- king on both sides, and the same date ments given by Colonel Vyse, the base of 884 A. H. when they were both com- of the pyramid was 320 ft. square, and pleted or repaired. the chamber 40 by 15, with smaller Half way from the pyramids to apartments over it, as in the great Abooroash are the remains of an old pyramid of Geezeh. village on the edge of the desert, now Near the pyramid, to the westward, a heap of pottery and bricks. 182 Sect. II. BUSIRIS - PYRAMIDS OF ABOOSEER. of an ancient town. Halfway, on a hill n. Busmis. to the W. of Shebrem6nt, is a small Close to the pyramids was an an- ruin; and about 1 m. to the N. of cient village called Busiris, from which Abooseer are the pyramids to which the people used to ascend them, being it has given its name. There is also paid, no doubt, by visitors, as the pea- another pyramid, standing alone, and sants are by travellers at the present bearing 250 W. of N. from the great day to go over the casing to the top pyramid of Abooseer, from which it of the second pyramid. The steps said is distant about 2970 ft., or, according by Diodorus to have been cut in the to Colonel Vyse, 4 of a mile. He gives face of that pyramid were probably the base of it 123 ft. 4 in. square; and similar to those used by the people on a block used in building it, probably who ascend it in modern times, being taken from an older monument, is the merely small holes sufficiently deep name of one of the early and broad to place the hands and feet. Pharaohs. In the plain be- low ae theremains of a The same kind of rude steps were low are the remains of probably cut in the faces of the great stone building, apparently pyramid also, before the casing was a temple, connected with the removed, which, if we may believe pyramid by a causeway; and Abd e' Latif, did not happen till a 0 about halfway between this late time. and the pyramids of Abooseer The village of Busiris may have are other vestiges of masonry, now a stood on the site of one of those below heap of broken fragments of white the pyramids: that called El Hamra, stone. Fifty paces to the E. of the "the red," or, more commonly, El northernmost pyramid of Aboos6er is Kom-el-Aswed, "the black mound," to a temple, and a causeway leading from the N.E., is evidently ancient; and it to the plain; and some distance to another stood just above the two the S. of this is another causeway kafrs, or hamlets, to the S. of Kom-el- leading to the central pyramid, at the Aswed. A Greek inscription found side of which lie fragments of black before the sphinx speaks of " the stone that once paved it. inhabitants of the village of Busiris Besides the pyramids are 8 or 9 other in the Letopolite nome, who live near stone ruins, one of which, to the S.W. the pyramids, the scribes of the dis- of the large pyramid, is 78 paces by 80, trict and the scribes of the village (the with an entrance on the N. It has topogrammats and the comogrammats) perpendicular sides, and some of the dedicating the stone stela" on which i stones measure nearly 17 ft. in length. was inscribed;-a sufficient proof that In the largest of these pyramids the Busiris was close to the pyramids, and degrees, or stories, are exposed, the farther to the N. than the modern triangular portions that filled up the Aboosier, which stands beyond the spaces having been removed. It mea- limits of the Letopolite, and within sured originally, according to Colonel the Memphite, nome. It has succeeded Vyse, 359 ft. 9 in. square, and 227 ft. to the name, though not to the site, 10 in. high, now reduced to 325 ft. and of the ancient village; nor is this the 164 ft. The northernmost one is sur- only instance of the Arab form of rounded by an enclosure 137 paces the Egyptian word; and Aboosder square; the pyramid itself being about is the modern name of Busiris in 213 ft. square, or 216 according to the Delta, near Sebennytus, and of Colonel Vyse, having been originally Busiris, the supposed Nilopolis, near 257 ft.; and its height of 162 ft. 9 theBusis, the supracleoposed Nilopolme.s, near in. is now reduced to 118. the Hracleopolite ome. The most interesting object in the neighbourhood of these pyramids is the o. PYRAMIDs O AnoosE (Aus). Apis Cemetery. It lies to the west- Abooseer is 74 m. to the southward of ward of the pyramid of Abooseer, and the great pyramid, and has the mounds some way to the northward of the Cair0. 183 great pyramid of Sal.kldra. It was dis- arrangement it bears no resemblance to covered by M. Mariette, together with any other; the columns are mere plain the Serapium (or Sarapeum), with square pillars, but the walls are deco- which it communicated. It consists of rated with a profusion of sculpture in long underground passages hewn in very slight relief, and painting, and of the rock; on both sides of which are most excellent design and workman- deep recesses, each containing a very ship. The colours too, probably from large sarcophagus of granite, measmur- having been so effectually buried in ing 12 ft. 5 in. by 7 ft. 62 in., and 7 ft. sand, are most vivid; the figures ad- 8 in. high, or to the top of the convex mirably drawn, and with no little lid 11 ft. The sarcophagi are unsculp- spirit. All manner of trades are here tured, with the exceptions of two or depicted; and among them carpenters three, which are of late time, just be- at work, most ably represented. Here fore and after the Persian conquest; are birds and animals of all kinds, and the most important historical drawn to perfection. A man spearing monuments here were the numerous two hippopotami, one with its head stelse affixed to the walls, which re- turned round, and with open mouth, corded the successive bulls, and the showing a most formidable array of names of the kings in whose reigns teeth; and numerous Nile fish of dif- they lived, received divine honours, ferent species. On the whole, the, and were buried. These have been paintings here, while they resemble removed to Paris, and are of great im- those at Beni Hassan, appear not less portance for Egyptian history. The interesting, and are far better drawn, few that still remain on the walls, at and in much better preservation.- the present entrance, are of minor im- A. C. 8.] portance, being merely exvotos without the names of kings. Each Apis is styled "Apis Osiris" (Hapi or Hap . On a cp{p. PYRAMIDS OF SAlKf.fiRA-TOMBS. Osiri). One sarcophagus is of much smaller size than the rest. In one of the recesses are fragments of statues of Those of Sa.kdra, about 2 miles Sethi I. and his son Remeses II., with more to the S., are worthy of a visit,- a few hieroglyphics relating to the and hold a conspicuous place among worship of Atin-re, the sun of the the "many pyramids on the brow of "Stranger Kings," which last were the hills " mentioned by Strabo, in brought from other ruins in the vici- which he included no doubt those of nity of Memphis. The recesses and Geezeh, Abooseier, Saklkra, and Da- the passages were lined with masonry, shdor. The largest pyramid of Sak- and arched. They have been compared kra has its degrees or stories stripped to immense wine - vaults. [A long of their triangular exterior. It mea- passage extends to a considerable dis- sures about 137 paces square; or, ac- tance, and on either hand are the bins, cording to Colonel Vyse's measure- each containing an enormous sarco- ments, 351 ft. 2 in. on the N. and S. phagus, with a granite lid, partly open, faces, and 393 ft. 11 in. on the E. and the lid having been pushed forward W., and is surrounded by what may from its original position in order to be considered a sacred enclosure, about give access to the contents of the sar- 1750 ft. by 950 ft. Within, it resembles cophagus. Of these huge sarcophagi a hollow dome, supported here and twenty-four are still in situ; and from there by wooden rafters. At the end their immense size they certainly ap- of the passage, opposite the entrance to pear to be in keeping with the massive this dome, is a small chamber, re- colossi in which ancient Egypt de- opened about 30 years ago, on whose lighted, doorway are some hieroglyphics con- The Sarapeum, opened by M. Ma- taining the square title or banner of a riette two years since, is one of the very old king, apparently with his most beautiful temples of Egypt: in name placed outside, and not, as 184 CAIRO---EXCURSION 4, 0, p. Sect. II. PYRAMIDS OF SAKKARA. (repeated) usual, within, an oval. It may, however, be observed, that this chamber and its entrance-passage appear of a later date than the rest of the pyramid. The chamber was lined with blue slabs similar to those now called Dutch tiles; and it is scarcely necessary to remark that vitrified porcelain was a very old invention in Egypt, and continued in vogue there till a late period, even after the Arab conquest and the founda- tion of Cairo. All had been carefully closed, and concealed by masonry; but the treasures it contained, if any, had long since been removed. (repeated) In the face of the rocks to the east- In the human mummy pits at Sak- ward, near the cultivated land, is a kaira objects of curiosity and value vaulted tomb of the time of Psammeti- are often found, though some are chus I., of hewn stone. This, and occasionally damaged by the damp, others near the pyramids of Geezeh, owing to the great depth of many of are the oldest stone arches hitherto the tombs, which are often more than discovered, having been erected more 70 ft. deep. This is more surprising, than 600 years before our era. That as the Egyptians generally calculated style of building, however, was known very accurately the changes that took to the Egyptians long before, even as place in their country, and could not early as the time of Amunoph I. and but be aware of the increasing rise of Thothmes III. of the 18th dynasty, in the level of their river. Here, as about the 15th and 16th centuries B.C., some the pyramids of Geezeh, representa- tombs with. arched roofs being found tions of the pigmy deity of Memphis at Thebes of that period; and if they, are frequently met with; from whose like others, built in the time of the name Pthah-Sokari, or Pthah-Sokari- 26th dynasty, are of crude brick, they Osiris, Mr. Salt, with great ingenuity, are not less convincing proofs of the suggested the origin of the name of invention of the arch. Sakk ra. Among the most curious objects at Some years ago many curious sculp- Sakkara are the ibis mummy pits to tured tombs were seen on the high the north of the great pyramid, and plain near these pyramids, containing nearly due W. of the village of Aboo- the names of ancient kings, many of ser. Near the same spot are also which were destroyed by Mohammed found mummies of snakes, oxen, sheep, Bey Defterdar to build his palace of and 6ther animals. The ibises have Kasr Dubarra. been put into long earthen pots, very Besides the great pyramid of Sak- like those ued in making sugar; but, lira, are 9 or 10 smaller ones, and the owing to the damp, they are mostly Mustaba Pharaoon, or "Pharaoh's reduced to powder; and unless a small throne," and other ruins; which, as opening is made in them to ascertain well as the mummy-pits, and the their contents, they are for the most general position and dimensions of the part not worth taking away. surrounding objects, have been fully The mummied ibises of Thebes are described by Pococke and Colonel much better preserved; and, instead of Howard Vyse. being in pits, are put up in bandages, like cats and other animals. Cairo. 185 CAIRO.-EXCURSION 4, q, r. q. PYRAMIDS OF DASH6OOR. The stone pyramids of Dashdor, or Menshah, have both been opened. Their entrances are to the N., as in those of Geezeh. The summit of the second or southernmost one was finished at a different angle from the lower part; and from its being the only pyramid of this form, I am inclined to think they depressed the angle in order more speedily to complete it; for, had it retained its original talus, it would have been considerably higher. In the passage are some hieroglyphics, cut perhaps by a visitor at a late period. The northernmost of these py- ramids measures, according to Colonel Yyse, 700 ft. square, having been ori- ginally 719 ft. 5 in.; and of its former height of 342 ft. 7 in., there now re- main 326 ft. 6 in. The southernmost one has the angle of its casing in the lower part 540 14' 46", and the upper part 42� 59' 26". Here are also two crude brick pyra- mids, in one of which I could trace the base of a chamber. The question then naturally suggests itself, how was this roofed? The chambers of the crude brick pyramids of Thebes are all vaulted, and we can scarcely suppose that the roof of this was sup- ported in any other way. Herodotus tells us that Asychis, wishing to sur- pass all other kings who had reigned before him in Egypt, made a brick pyramid for his monument, to which he affixed this sentence engraved on stone: "Do not despise me, when compared to the stone pyramids; I am as superior to them as Jupiter to the other gods. For men, plunging poles into a lake, and collecting the mud thus extracted, formed it into bricks, of which they made me." Dr. Richardson justly asks, in what could this superiority over stone pyramids consist? and suggests that it points to the invention of the arch that roofed its chambers ;-which, provided its founder lived before the 12th, or the 18th dynasty, is very probable. Those of Dash6or, and other places, doubt- less imitated the original brick pyra- mid in this, as well as other pecu- liarities of style; but we are uncertain if either of these two, or those at the entrance of the Ffoo i, have a claim to the honour of bearing that notable inscription. Some give it to the northernmost of the Dashdor brick pyramids, where Colonel Howard Vyse discovered, in the temple before it, a stone bearing part of an early king's name. This pyramid, he says, measured originally 350 ft. square, and was 215 ft. 6 in. high, of which 90 ft. now only re- main; and the southern one was 342 ft. 6 in. square, and 267 ft. 4 in. high, now reduced to 156 ft. There is also a small one of brick close to the S. of the second stone pyramid, originally 181 ft. square and 106 ft. high. The name, however, given by Herodotus, Asychis, is evidently a mistake, this being a corruption of the name of a later king. Large groves of sont, or acanthus, extend along the edge of the culti- vated land in the neighbourhood of Sakkira and Dash6or, and have suc- ceeded to those mentioned by Strabo; though the town of Acanthus, if Dio- dorus is right in his distance of 120 stadia from Memphis, stood nmuch further to the S. A large dyke runs from the edge of the desert, a little to the N. of the village of Sak.kara, to the mounds of Memphis, at Mitra- henny. r. MEMPHIS. Memphis is styled in Coptic Mefi, Momf, and Menf, which last is tra- ditionally preserved by the modern Egyptians, though the only existing town whose name resembles it is Menoof, in the Delta. The Egyp- tians called it Panouf, Memfi, Membe, and Menofre (Ma-nofre), "the place of good," which Plutarch translates "the haven of good men," though it seems rather to refer to the abode of the Deity, the representative of good- ness, than to the virtues of its in- habitants. In hieroglyphics it was styled "Menofre, the land of the pyra- mid," and sometimes Ei-Pthah, "the 186 Sect. II. MEMPHIS. abode of Pthah," as well as "the city of the white wall." In the time of Aboolfeda, A.D. 1342, the remains of Memphis were very extensive, of which little or nothing now exists but the large colossi of Remeses II., a few fragments of gra- nite, and some substructions. Hero- dotus and Diodorus state that two statues were erected by Sesostris, one of himself and another of his queen, with those of four of his sons, before the temple of Vulcan or Pthah; and as the name of that conqueror seems often to have been applied to Remeses, it is probable that this is one of the two they mention. The statues of Sesostris were 30 cubits (45 to 511 ft.) high; the other four, 20 cubits (30 to 343 ft.). The largest colossus is unfor- tunately broken at the feet, and part of thecap is wanting; but its total height may be estimated at 42 ft. 8 in. with- out the pedestal. The expression of the face, which is perfectly preserved, is very beautiful. The stone is a white siliceous lime- stone, very hard, and capable of taking a high polish. From the neck of the king is suspended an amulet or breast- plate, like that of the Urim and Thummin of the Hebrews, in which is the royal prenomen, supported by Pthah on one side, and by his con- templar companion Pasht (Bubastis) on the other. In the centre, and at the side of his girdle, are the name and prenomen of this Remeses, and in his hand hlie holds a scroll, bearing at one end his name Amun-mai-Remeses. A figure of his daughter is represented at his side. It is on a small scale, her shoulder reaching little above the level of his knee. If this be really one of the two statues mentioned by the historian, it marks the site of the famous temple of Pthah. During the high Nile it is nearly covered with water, and parts of the ancient Memphis are no longer approachable; the traveller, therefore, who goes up the Nile in October, had better defer his visit to Mitrahenny till his return. This beautiful statue was discovered by Signor Caviglia and Mr. Sloane, by whom it was given to the British, Museum, on condition of its being taken to England, but the fear of the expense seems to have hitherto prevented its removal. When the Turks have burnt it for lime it will be regretted. But this is not the only colossal statue at Memphis; there is another a short way from it to the eastward, of the same kind, which doubtless belonged to the same temple, of Pthah, like many other blocks in the vicinity. This colossus, if entire, would be about 342 ft. high, which would agree with the height of the other four mentioned by Hero- dotus, his 20 cubits being more than 34 ft., according to the measure of the cubits found in Egypt. On each side is a small figure, one of his son, the other of his daughter; on the bracelet is the name of Remeses IV., and on the back is that of the fifth Remeses. Near this a tablet was dis- covered of Apries; and a short dis- tance to the N. of the great colossus is a pedestal with the name of Remeses II., and various fragments. At the guard's house is a statue broken at the waist, having the name of Sabaco; with other pieces of sculpture. To the S. of this is a limestone block, on which is represented the god Nilus, probably binding the throne of a king, which is broken away; and some distance beyond it to the S. are two statues of red granite, one entirely corroded by exposure, the other hold- ing a long stela surmounted by the bust of a king wearing a necklace, and a head-dress of horns with a globe and two ostrich-feathers. On the stela is a column of hieroglyphics, contain- ing the banner and name of Remeses the Great, with the title, " Lord of the assemblies, like his father Pthah." Though the remains of Memphis lie chiefly about IVMitrahenny, it is evident that the city extended considerably beyond the present mounds, which appear to have belonged to the enclo- sures about the temple and other sacred edifices, as well as to the "palaces" that were situated, as Strabo says, on an elevated spot reaching down to the lower part of the town; and there is reason to believe that it extended from Cairo. 187 CAIRO.-EXCURSION 4, r. near the river at Bedreshayn to Sak- .kra, which only allows a breadth E. and W. of 3 miles. Diodorus calcu- lates its circuit at 150 stades, upwards of 17 Eng. m., requiring a diameter of nearly 6 m.; and its greatest diameter was probably N. and S. But the whole of this space was not covered by houses or public buildings; much was given up to gardens, villas, and "sacred groves;" and the great Acherusian lake, "surrounded," according to Dio- dorus, "by meadows and canals," occu- pied a large portion of it. This lake was probably in the lowlands to the N.E. of Sakkra, with a canal commu- nicating with the large reservoir con- structed for the service of the temple of Pthah, in the open space to the N. of the colossus, between Mitrahenny and the long eastern mounds, in the mud of which several statues have been discovered. On the river side of these mounds is the site of what is called the Nilometer. It may be doubted if Memphis was surrounded by a wall. It was not the custom of the Egyptians to include the whole of a large city within one circuit : Thebes even, with its 100 gates, had no wall; and we find there, as in other cities, that portions alone were walled round, comprehending the temples and other precious monuments. In places of great extent, as Thebes, each tem- ple had its own circuit, generally a thick crude-brick wall, with strong gateways, sometimes within an outer one of greater extent; and the quar- ters of the troops, or citadel, were sur- rounded by a massive wall of the same materials, with an inclined way to the top of the rampart. The temples of Memphis were, no doubt, encompassed in the same man- ner by a sacred enclosure; and the " white wall " was the fortified part of the city, in which the Egyptians took refuge when defeated by the Persians. This white fortress was very ancient, and from it Memphis was called the "city of the white wall." Memphis was said to have been built by Menes, the first king of Egypt; and the fact of his having changed the course of the river, which previously "flowed under the Libyan mountains," and for which he opened a new channel about half-way between the Arabian and Libyan chain, is strongly corroborated by the actual appearance of the Nile. According to Herodotus, the river was turned off about 100 stadia above Memphis; and the dykes constructed at this point, to prevent its returning to its original channel, were kept up with great care by his successors, even to the time of the Persians. At Kafr el Iyat, 14 miles above Mitrahenny, the Nile takes a considerable curve to the eastward, and would, if the pre- vious direction of its course continued, run immediately below the Libyan mountains to Sakkra; and the slight difference between this distance and the approximate measurement of Hero- dotus offers no objection. Indeed, if we calculate from the outside of the town, which the historian doubtless did, we shall find that the bend of Kafr el Iyat agrees exactly with his 100 stadia, or about 112 m., Mitrahenny being some way within the city of Memphis. The canal that now runs between Sakkira and Mitrahenny, and con- tinues thence through the plain below the great pyramids, has probably suc- ceeded to an ancient one that passed through Memphis, and brought the water of the Nile to the famous lake which was "on the N. and W. of the city." This lake was excavated by Menes. Herodotus says it was made on the N. and W. side, and not on the E., because the river was in the way; showing that Memphis stood near the Nile; as is further proved by his account of the herald sent from Cam- byses by water to that city. The site of the lake was, as I have already stated, to the N.E. of Sakkira, where a hollow spot containing water for a great part of the year still re- mains. It was across this lake that the dead were transported to the tombs on the hill about the pyramids of Sakkara, and other parts of the cemetery of Memphis; and here were performed the ceremonies which gave 188 Sect. I1. MEMPHIS. rise to some of the fables of Greek mythology. Diodorus, in speaking of their adop- tion from Egypt, says, "Orpheus had learned of the Egyptians the greater part of his mystical ceremonies; the orgies that celebrate the wanderings (of Ceres), and the mythology of the shades below . . ., and the punish- ments of the impious in Tartarus, the Elysian plains of the virtuous, and the common imagery of fiction, were all copied from the Egyptian funerals. Hermes, the conductor of souls, was, according to the old institution of Egypt, to convey the body of Apis to an appointed place, where it was re- ceived by a man wearing the mask of Cerbesus; and Orpheus having re- lated this among the Greeks, the fable was adopted by Homer, who makes the Cyllenian Hermes call forth the souls of the suitors, holding his staff in his hand ..... The river he calls ocean, as they say, because the Egyp- tians call the Nile oceanus in their language; the gates of the sun are derived from Heliopolis; and the mea- dow is so called from the lake named Acherusian, near Memphis, which is surrounded by beautiful meadows and canals, with lotus'and flowering rushes. And it is consistent with the imitation to make the dead inhabit those places, because the greater number and the most considerable of the Egyptian tombs are there; the bodies being fer- ried over the river and the Acherusian lake, and deposited in the catacombs destined to receive them. And the rest of the Grecian mythology respect- ing Hades agrees also with the present practiQe of Egypt, where a boat, called Baris, carries over the bodies, and a penny is given for the fare to the boat- man, who is called Charon in the lan- guage of the country. They say there is also, in the neighbourhood of the same place, a temple of the nocturnal Hecate, with the gates of Cocytus and of Lethe, fastened with brazen bars ; and besides, other gates of Truth, and near them a figure of Justice, without a head. In the city of Acanthe, on the Libyan side of the Nile, 120 stadia (about 14 m.) from Memphis, they say there is a barrel pierced with holes, to which 360 priests carry water from the Nile; and a mystery is acted in an assembly in that neigh- bourhood, in which a man is made to twist one end of a long rope, while other persons untwist the other end: an allusion to which has become pro- verbial in Greece. Melampus, they say, brought from Egypt the mysteries of Bacchus, the stories of Saturn, and the battles of the Titans. Daedalus imitated the Egyptian labyrinth in that which he built for king Minos; the Egyptian labyrinth having been constructed by Mendes, or by Marus, an ancient king many years before his time; and the style of the ancient statues in Egypt is the same with that of the statues sculptured in Greece. They also say that the very fine pro- pylon of Vulcan in Memphis was the work of Daedalus as an architect, and that, being admired for it, he had the honour of obtaining a place in the same temple for a wooden statue of himself, the work of his own hands; that his talents and inventive facul- ties at last acquired him even divine honours; and that there is to this day a temple of Daedalus on one of the islands near Memphis, which is revered by the neighbouring inhabitants." The principal deities of Memphis were Pthah, Apis, and Bubastis; and the, goddess Isis had a magnificent temple there, erected by Amasis. That of Pthah, or Vulcan, was said to have been founded by Menes, and was en- larged and beautified by succeeding monarchs. Moeris erected the north- ern vestibule; and Sesostris, besides the colossal statues above mentioned, made considerable additions with enor- mous blocks of stone which " he em- ployed his prisoners of war to drag to the temple." Pheron, his son, also enriched it with suitable presents, which he sent on the recovery of his sight, as he did to all the principal temples of Egypt; and on the S. of the Temple of Pthah were added the sacred grove and Temple of Proteus. The western vestibule, or propylaheum, was the work of Rhampsinitus, who also erected 2 statues, 25 cubits in Gairo. 189 height, one on the N., the other on the phis, the royal residence of the Egyp- S.; to the former of which the Egyp- tians, distance three schoenes from the tians gave the name of summer, and to Delta. It has a temple of Apis, who the latter winter. The eastern was is the same as Osiris. Here the bull the largest and most magnificent of all Apis is kept in an enclosure, and these propylsea, and excelled as well in treated as a god. He has a white mark the beauty of its sculpture as in its di- on his forehead, and other small spots mensions. It was built by Asychis. on his body, the rest being black; and Several grand additions were after- when he dies another is selected, from wards made by Psammetichus, who, having certain signs, to take his place. besides the southern vestibule, erected Before the enclosure is a court, and a large hypmthral court covered with another for the mother of this bull. sculpture, where Apis was kept, when He is permitted to go out occasionally exhibited in public. It was surrounded into the court, particularly when any exhbitd i pulic Itwassurounedstrangers are desirous of seeing him by a peristyle of Osiride figures, 12 strangters are desingrous only seeing himrough cubits in height, which served instead (at other times being only seen through of columns ;-similar no doubt to those the windows of his abode); and after in the Memnonium at Thebes. I have he has played about a little he is taken aeback. endeavoured to give an idea of the in- terior of this court of Apis in my o The temple of Apis is close to that 'Manners and Customs of the Ancient of ulcan (Pthah), which is very Egyptians.' (Frontispiece of vol. i.) magnificent, both in size and other Many other kings adorned this mag- respects. Before the dromos lies a nificent temple of Pthah with sculpture colossus of a single stone, and in this and various gifts, among which may space it is customary to have bull- be mentioned the statue of Sethos, in fights, the animals being trained for commemoration of his victory over the the purpose by persons who are like Assyrians, holding in his hand a mouse the breeders of horses; and having with this inscription, " Whoever sees fought together, the reward is ad- me, let him be pious." Amasis, too, judged to the victor. At Memphis is dedicated a recumbent colossus, 75 ft. also a temple of Venus, supposed to be long, in this temple, which is the more a Greek goddess. Some believe it to singular as there is no instance of an be dedicated to the moon. There is Egyptian statue, of early time, in that also a Serapeum" (or temple of Serapis) position. "in a very sandy spot, where drifts of The sand are raised by the wind to such a According to Herodotus, The degree that we saw some sphinxes temenos, or sacred grove, of Proteus buried up to their gheads, and others was very beautiful and richly orna- half-covered. From this circumstance mented. Some Phoenicians of Tyre, any one may judge of the danger of settlers at Memphis, lived round it, being overtaken there by a whirlwind and in consequence the whole neigh- of sand -(See above, p. 184.) The bourhood received the name of the city is large and populous, next to Tyrian camp. Within the temenos was Alexandria in size, and, like that, the Temple of Proteus, which was filled with foreign residents. Before called " of Venus the stranger; it are some lakes; but the palaces, whence the historian conjectured that situated once in an elevated spot, and it was of Ijelen, who was reported to reaching down to the lower part of have lived some time at the court of the city, are now ruined and deserted. the Egyptian king. This is of course Contiguous are the grove and lake." an idle Greek story, which, like so " Beyond M many others, shows how ready the southward) is the city of Acanthes southward) o;+ is the it ofAcnhs Greeks were to derive everything from with a temple of Osiris, and a grove their own country. of Theban acanthus-trees, which pro- Strabo, in speaking of Memphis, duce gum; after which is the Aphro- says, "Near to the pyramids is Mem- ditopolite nome, and a city of that 190 CAIO.--EXCURION 4, ry�. Sect. II. ROUTE 7.-CAIRO TO SUEZ. name on the Arabian (eastern) bank, where a sacred white cow is kept." The taking of Memphis by the Persians, under Cambyses, was the first blow received by this ancient city, which continued to be the capital of the lower country until commerce so increased the importance of Alex- andria, that Memphis, like Thebes, declined in size and opulence; and in the time of the Romans Memphis held a secondary rank, and Thebes had ceased to be a city. Memphis still con- tinued to enjoy some consequence, even at the time of the Arab invasion; and though its ancient palace was a ruin, the governor of Egypt, John Mecaukes, still resided in the city; and it was here that he concluded a treaty with the invaders after they had succeeded in taking the strong Roman fortress at Babylon. The wealth, as well as the inhabitants of Memphis, soon passed to the new Arab city of Fostat, and the capital of Lower Egypt in a few years ceased to exist. The blocks of stone of its ruined monuments were taken to build modern edifices; and we find Pococke more than a hundred years ago expressing his astonishment that the position of Memphis should be entirely unknown. Modern discoveries have ascertained its site, but we are surprised to find so few remains of this vast city; and the only traces of its name in the country are preserved by very doubtful tradition, and the MSS. of the Copts. Several roads lead from the valley of the Nile to the Ff6om, across the low Libyan hills, some from near Abooroash, the great pyramids, and the neighbourhood of Sakkldira and Dash6or. There are others from dif- ferent points, along the whole range to its entrance near the pyramid of Illahdon, westward of Benisooef. In the plain between the pyramids and the Nile are the sites of many ancient towns; and about 5 m. to the N.N.E. of Abooroish is Weseem, in Coptic Boushem, which probably occu- pied the position of Lhtopolis, the Capital of the nome joining the Mem- phite to the N. ROUTE 7. CAIRO TO SUEZ. a. Various Roads. Though there are many roads and tracks over the desert to Suez, one only need be described as a route, the rest not being known to European travellers. But I shall first mention the principal roads, in the order jn which they come, beginning at the north. 1. One from Belbays, by the Delta, ascends the Wadee Jaffra, crosses the road to Syria, and joins the Derb el Maazee. 2. The Derb el Maazee, from Cairo, passes by Heliopolis and the Birket el Hag; 10 m. beyond which last the road to Syria branches off to the 1., after passing the high sand- hills of Undtham. 3. Derb el Hag, "road of the pil- grims," is the same as the last, until after it passes the Birket el Hag, when it turns to the rt by a stone ruin called e' Sibeel (" the fountain "), and the other con- tinues below the Undtham hills to the 1. 4. Derb el Hamra (which is the one taken by the Indian Mail) passes to the S. of the red mountain, and joins the Derb el Hag about 27 m. from Cairo. 5. Derb e' Towara (like the 3 last, from Cairo) joins the Hamra about 6 m. from the Wadee e' Gendelee. 6. Derb e' Tarabeen, from E1 Bussateen, a village 3 m. above Old Cairo, ascends the Mukuttum range by the Bahr-bela-me, and joins the Towara road 25 m. from Cairo, and the same distance from El Bus- sateen. It falls into the Derb el Hag at El Muggreh, 584 m. from Cairo. 7. A road also leaves the Nile about half-way between Cairo and Beni- sooef, passing by Wadee el Gho- meir. Cairo. 191 ROUTE 7.-CAIRO TO SUEZ. b. Distances. Cairo to Suez by the Derb el Homra. Miles. Cairo to Kalaiat Raian .. .. .. 9 Wadee Halaz6nee .. .. .... 8 Derb el Hag joins this road from the N... ........ .. 10 Cross Wadee Gendelee, and then Wadee Jaffra .. .. .. .. 10 Om e' Sharameet .. .. .... 3 Kobbet e' Takro6ree .. .. .. 4 Plain of El Muggreh .. .. .. 10 El Miktala .. .. .. .. .. 10 Fort of Agero6d .. .. .. .. 6 Beer Suez (wells) .. .. .. .. 8 To Suez .. .. .. .. .. .. 4 82 Between Kalaiat Raian and Wadee Halaz6nee is much petrified wood. I observed a palm-tree from 25 to 30 ft. long, and other wood, in the sand- stone rock. The Wadee Halaz6nee, the "valley of snails," is so called from their abounding there, as indeed throughout this part of the desert. But they are not found to the S. of lat. 29� 20'. The small Acacia-tree, called Dar el Hamra, " the red abode," or Om e' Sharameet, "the mother of rags," is the spot where the pilgrims rest on their way to Ager6od; and near this is the principal station (No. 4) of the passengers by the overlanid route. It is, however, no longer called "Dar el Hdmra," but " Dar el Bayda," " the white abode," Abbas Pasha having built a palace there, and preferring an epithet of better omen. Kobbet e' Takr6oree is a tomb built by the friends of an African stranger who died there, and a little beyond it is Beer el Batter, a "well" only in name, though many attempts were made to discover water by digging there some years ago. No fresh water is met with on the Suez road, except after abundant rains in the Wadee Gendelee, 2 a mile to the I. of the road, and also in the Wadee Jaffra, into which the Gendelee runs not far from where the road crosses it. Near Beer el Batter the limestone rocks reappear, and the petrified wood ceases with the sandstone. . The plain of El Muggreh is the highest part of the road. To the east- ward of it all the valleys flow towards the sea, and to the westward towards the Nile; and here the Derb e' Tara- been joins the "road of the pilgrims." About 8 m. further, and about 2 m. short of El Miktala, is the course of an ancient road, the stones cleared off and ranged on either side, indications of which are seen long before to the westward in the heaps of stones placed at intervals as road-marks. The ancients probably followed the same line as the pilgrims at the pre- sent day, by the Derb el Hag; though another road seems to have led in a southerly direction from Heliopolis, and either to have fallen into it to the W. of the Wadee Halaz6nee, or to have gone in a different line through the desert to the S. A little beyond this the Maazee road joins the Derb el Hag, and they continue together to El Miktala and Ager6od, where, as already shown, the road of the pilgrims runs off to the eastward, and the others go in a southerly direction to Suez. The main road passes by the defile of El Miktala; most of the roads hav- ing been once more united into one, a short distance before reaching it. The course thus far from Cairo is nearly E.; it then takes a southerly direction to Suez; but the Derb el Hag again strikes off to the eastward from the fort of Age- rdod, and crosses the peninsula of Sinai. Ager6od is a Turkish fort ; and at Beer Suez is a well of brackish water. These roads are now no longer used, as there is a railway from Cairo to Suez. It has passenger and goods trains. The journey occupies about five hours. There are also special trains for the Indian passengers and mails on the arrival of the steamers at Alexandria and Suez. The fares from Cairo to Suez have varied, and I must refer the traveller to ' Bradshaw's Continental Railway Guide.' SUEZ is in lat. 290 57' 30" N., and long. 320 35' E: from Greenwich. The Sect 11. Egypt. ROUTE 7. -SUEZ -PASSAGE OF ISRAELITES. environs are monotonous and barren. The town is small and insignificant. But Suez is not without interest in an historical point of view, from having been the spot near which the Israelites crossed the Red Sea on their way to the wilderness of Sinai, and were delivered from the bondage of the Egyptians. This passage of the sea was probably C' short distance to the E. of the modern town, at the spot where the camels now ford it on their way to the fountain of El Ghurkudeh. In former times the water appears to have been considerably deeper than at the present day, as we find positive evidences of the elevation of the ground in the vicinity, at least on the W. side of Suez, where the plain, once covered by the sea, and still strewed with shells, is far above the reach of its highest rise. Many reasons combine to fix the spot about the present ford, among which are the direction of the channel, the general line of the road, and the depth of the water. Of the first it may be observed that it is the part of the sea most likely to be affected in the manner described, "by a strong east wind." 2. The road from Migdol (if it be the defile still known to the Arabs by the name of Miktala), where the Israelites turned off to the rt., goes directly to this point; and 3. though the traditions of the Arabs fix the passage at the eastern end of the Wadee el Arraba, "the valley of the chariots," and the wells and moun- tain of Hammam Phar46on, on the opposite shore, are said to have de- rived that name from the destruction of Pharaoh's host, the depth of the sea there, and in all other parts, would have been too great to allow of its division being compared to a wall on either hand; for it is natural to suppose the Israelites would not have made less of the miracle, and the division of deeper water would undoubtedly bave justified their c11-- ing it a mountain rather than a wall. Moreover the greater breadth of the sea in other places would have required a longer period for their passage than is given in the [lEgypt.] Bible;. and the object of entangling and overwhelming the chariots and host of Pharaoh would be sufficiently obtained there by the return of the waters blown back by the wind, and the addition of a tide of between 5 and 6 ft., which rises there regularly to the present day. Besides, according to Dr. Robinson, the island just below the ford is still called Gezeeret el Yahdod, I' the island of the Jews." It is from the deliverance of the Israelites that tradition asserts the neighbouring Gebel Attdka has received its name, though the Moslems pre- tend that its signification, "deliver, ance," relates to their release from the perils of the pilgrimage when in sight of this welcome mountain. Agerdod has also been allowed to claim some connexion with that re- markable event; and etymology might perhaps discover in it a distinct allu- sion to the overthrow of Pharaoh's chariots, whose Hebrew appellation, "Agelo6t," bears some resemblance tQ this modern name. Mdktala, or El Miktala, may be the site of the ancient Migdol, not only from a similarity of name, but from its position, being the point where the road turns off from its previously easterly course direct to the sea; and though the name signifies "the slaughter," and appears to mark the spot of some later Arab battle, it must be remembered that the Arabs are in the habit of substituting names front their own language for older ones when- ever they happen to trace any resem- blance to them; an instance of which may be found in El Gezeir (Algiers), "the islands," substituted for the ancient name Julia Caesarea; in Aboo- Seer for Busiris; in Tel-Defenneh for Daphne; and in numerous others. This Migdol may only have been a "tower," not a town; and the Mig- dol or Magdolum on the Egyptian frontier was near the Mediterranean, between Salahah and Katdah (see p. 208). One "Magdal, the tower of King Sethi," is mentioned in a papyrug of Signor d'Anastasi. The name of T'olzim or Kolzoom, given to the range of mountains, and K 193 ROUTE 7,---CAIRO TO SUEZ. to the Red Sea itself in this part, is also supposed to relate to the history of the Israelites, its meaning, "de- struction," referring to that of the host of Pharaoh; though the great antiquity of the town of Clysma sug- gests that Kolzim is an Arab corrup- tion of the old Greek name. Clysma appears to have been a fort as well as a town, and was perhaps the spot where the troops destined to guard the sluices of the canal were sta- tioned; and it is remarkable that the elevated height outside the N. gate of the modern town of Suez is still known by the name of Kolzim. It was called Castrum by Hierocles and Epiphanius: and KAvoya (Clysma) or KxL"oa is first mentioned by Lucian. It appears to be the same as the Clysma Praesidium of Ptolemy, though he places it much farther down the coast. His positions, however, are not always certain; and a garrison would he stationed here, rather than on any other part of the coast. Besides, we have not only the traditional name of this eminence to guide our opinion, but the authority of history, which men- tions the re-opening of the canal by Omer to Kolzim on the Red Sea, for the purpose of sending provisions to Mecca. Aboolfeda is still more pre- cise in his position of Kolzim, and leaves no room to doubt that it stood exactly at the spot now occupied by Suez. His words are "At the ex- t lemity of the gulf intervening be- tween Tor and Egypt was situated the town of Kolzim, and those who go from Egypt to Tor are wont to fol- low the coast from Kolzim to Tor." Close to it (he says in another place) is the spot where Pharaoh was drowned. It has given the name of "Sea of Kolzim" to the gulf, and ap- pears to have succeeded, to Arsinoil, founded by Ptolemy Philadelphus, and so called after his sister; and has been itself succeeded in turn by the modern Suez. /fhe old Coptic name of the Red Sea was I1IO t. Ih A.pl " the Sea of Sari," corresponding to the Im (o Yim) Soof 10 D' of Hebrew, and Bahr Soof of Arabic. For though soof, is translated "flags" (Exod. ii. 5), which do not grow in the Nile, it is here the same as the Arabic soof, a small seaweed common in this as in other seas; and so called from its resemblance to "wool" (soof). It is probably the Bytiphlcea pinastroides (Phys. Brit. r. 85). The name Red ea was originally applied to the Per- sian, and afterwards to this gulf, as well as to that part of the Indian Ocean which lies between them; but the name "red" was not from any sea- weed, or colour about the sea; and it was only the same as that of the Edom- ites and other red races in the neigh- bourhood. At the isthmus, Dr. Lepsius found a series of Persian monuments of the time of Darius, commemorating (his reopening of) the canal between the Nile and Red Sea; and on one of them, near Shatuf, the name of Darius is written in cuneiform characters, but in a cartouche of Egyptian form. THE ANCIENT CANAL OF Asmoit. This ancient work, known in former times as the canal of Hero, is now completely filled with sand, except in that part where it is made to supply the modern village of Tel el Wadee and the neighbouring lands for the purposes of cultivation. Its greatest extent, to the Tel e' Rigibeh, is about 26 m. from Belbiys. The commence- ment of the canal may be said to be about 6 m. W. of Tel el Wadee, a modern town built by Mohammed Ali, and at 15 m. to the N.E. of Bel- bays; though the point where it first diverges from the valley of the Nile may be fixed near El Haid, 2 m. to the N.E. of that town. After con- tinuing from Belbays in a direction nearly due E. 35 m., as far as Shekh Handydik, it curves to the southward, and runs by the bitter iakes to the Red Sea; its ancient course being easily traced here and there between Tel el Wadee and Shekh Haniydik, though nearly filled with sand. It may also be seen towards the Suez 194E Sect. II. Igypt. ROUTE 7 C-OAN end, for a considerable distance, in the direction of the bitter lakes; and a little to the N. of that town, just below the mound of Kolzim, are the remains of masonry which appear to have been connected with its exit into: the sea and the sluices which closed its mouth. Here is a channel cut in the rock, corresponding to the direc- tion of the mounds of the old canal, of which it doubtless formed a part; and a stone wall has been thrown across the arm of the sea that runs up at the side. The ford is some distance to the N.N.E. of the stone wall. Several mounds mark the sites of ancient towns upon the banks of the old 'canal; the largest of which is that called by the French Abookes- hayd, supposed by some to be Hero- 5polis, or, according to M. Champol- lion, the Avaris of the Shepherd-kings. This, however, is not very probable, The name of Abookeshayd is not known to the Arabs, and the place is called by them e' Sigheea, "the water- wheel." This is the only place where any sculptured remains are found. They consist of a block of granite of the time of Remeses II., the supposed Sesostris, ornamented with 3 sitting figures in high relief, representing Re, Atmoo, and the king. "This canal," says Strabo, "was first cut by Sesostris, before the Tro- jan war." Some say it was begun by Neco, or rather Psammetichus II., who desisted from the undertaking on being warned by an oracle that he was labouring for the Barbarians. Darius, the son of Hystaspes, continued it; but having, according to the same account, been left unfinished, Ptole- my Philadelphus completed it, and made sluices to regulate the quantity of water, while they permitted the passage of vessels, They had also for their object the exclusion of the salt water; and so effectually was this done, that the bitter lakes were rendered perfectly sweet, and abounded with Nile fish and the usual water- fowl of Egypt. Pliny and Aristotle also mention Sesostris as the originator of this work. The former says it was com- AL OF ARSINOE. 195 menced by him, continued by Darius and Ptolemy (Philadelphus) to the bitter springs (lakes), and abandoned for fear of the greater height of the Red Sea; to which Diodorus and others attribute its non-completion by Darius. According to Herodotus, it was "four days' voyage in length, and sufficiently broad for 2 triremes to row abreast;" or, according to Strabo, 100 cubits (150 ft.). "The water was derived from the Nile, which entered it a little above Bu bastis, and it entered the Red Sea near to Patumos, a town of Arabia." It was here that Ptolemy founded Arsinoi, which Strabo says was also called Cleopatris, though he shortly after appears to consider them 2 dis- tinct towns. With regard to Hero6polis, if Pliny and Strabo are right in placing it on the gulf, it may be the same as Pi- Hahiroth ( ' i ), where the Is- raelites encamped near the sea, and the name of the Herobpolites Sinus might be adduced in favour of this opinion. Nor would it be difficult to trace the name in that given by the Hebrews; the Pi being the Egyptian article " the," and the h and th at the beginning and end being Hebrew additions, which leave the real word Hiro, or Hero. But this is an etymo- logical fancy, on which I by no means insist. In the time of the Romans the canal was still used for the purposes of communication with the Red Sea, but at a subsequent period it fell into disuse, and, being neglected, was choked up with sand, in which state it continued till re-opened by the Arabs in the caliphate of Omar. This prince was induced to send or- ders for repairing it, on finding that the Holy Land of Arabia had only been rescued from the miseries of a famine by opportune supplies of corn from Egypt; and Omar, to prevent the recurrence of a similar disaster, resolved on re-establishing this means of communication with the Red Sea. His anxiety for the welfare of the Holy Cities was welcomed with un- bounded demonstrations of gratitude K2 ROUTE 7.-ANAL OF ARSINOE. from all ranks of Moslems, as well as from the people of Arabia itself; and Omar received the flattering title of " Prince of the Faithful"' (Ameer el Momenedn), which was thenceforward adopted by his successors in the ca- liphate. One hundred and thirty-four years after, El Monsoor Aboo Gafer, the second caliph of the Abbaside dynasty, and the founder of Bagdad, is said to have closed this canal, to prevent supplies being sent to one of the descendants of Ali, who had re- volted at Medeeneh. Since that time it has remained unopened; though some assert that the Sultan Hakem once more rendered it available for the passage of boats, in the year A.D. 1000, after which it became neglected and choked with sand. But though the passage of boats was impeded, and it was no longer of use for communication with the Red Sea, some portion still contained water during the inundation, until closed by Mohammed Ali; at which time it is said to have flowed as far as Shekh Handydik and the bitter lakes. Of that grand project, the Suez canal, it will be time to speak when the proposed navigable ship canal, from the Mediterranean to the Red Sea, shall have been made. It will then be a work worthy of the skill and greatness of the French by whom it was projected. The English, though more interested in its completion than any other people, owing to the greater extent of their trade, have not con- sidered the project likely to pay;" and time will show whether the ship canal will be accomplished,or be limited to one of transhipment. As yet the nucleus only of what is to be the canal exists, under the name of the "Rigole" (or "gutter"), occupying a fractional portion of the breadth and depth of the intended canal; which can only be traversed by flat-bottomed boats draw- ing a very few inches of water, and that only by flushing the rigole, here and there, with water for the occasion. Much- has been said about "forced labour." It is true it has been used there; indeed, no public work, no canal, however necessary for the welfare of the people themselves, has yet been executed in Egypt without forced labour; and the Egyptian government offers the excuse of this fact, and of its being a civil instead of a military con- scription. This does not, however, mitigate the hardship, and there might be a possibility of abolishing it in all cases, if the peasants became convinced that they would be properly paid and fed, and if confidence were inspired by fair treatment. The principle of the Egyptian government has always been that those provinces which are to pro- fit by a canal are bound to supply men to work at it. Thus the Alex- andrian canal claimed the aid of the whole population from being a general benefit to the country, and there might have been some reason in the case if these civil conscripts had been pro- perly cared for. To the Suez canal, however, the principle does not apply. It is of no benefit to the peasants of Egypt; and the 2000 men taken for it from the neighbourhood of Sioot (lately witnessed by Mr. A. E. S.), and from other parts of the country, could have had no obligations towards the Suez canal-it is, in fact, out of Egypt; and as its effect will be to take away the trade from Alexandria, it will be in this respect a disadvantage to the country. The forced labour be- comes in consequence a greater hard- ship. It is not, therefore, unreasonable to hope, that, forced labour being once abandoned at the Suez canal, and the peasants becoming confident of receiv- ing good pay, and of having their in- terests properly attended to, the work will continue to be done there by voluntary labour, and that the comple- tion of this grand project will be the means of introducing among the Egyp- tian peasants a confidence in those who employ them, and of inducing the Egyptian government to give to labour its due reward, without the necessity of compulsion. 196 Sect. II. ROUTE 8$.-CAIRO TO MOUNT SINAI. ROUTE 8. CAIRO TO MOUNT SINAI. For the journey to Mount Sinai it will be necessary to engage some of the Tor Arabs, who will supply ca- mels, and act as guides through their desert. As usual in these excursions, one of them is to be the shekh or chief of the party, the director of all relating to the Arabs, and responsible for the protection of the traveller. A letter may also be taken from the Greek Patriarch at Cairo, as an intro- duction to the monks of the convent. To give some idea of the charges frequently made for camels, I will give a few items of an agreement for the journey to El A'kaba. " 1. From Suez to the Convent of Mount Sinai, each camel 400 piastres. 2. From the convent to El A'kaba, 150 piastres. 3. From the convent to E' Nakhl, 150 piastres." In going from the convent to Syria you pass by E Nakhl, and here you dismiss the Towara or Tor Arabs, and take the camels of the Tiaha to E' Dahreeh, and there engage horses for Hebron and Jerusalem, with a native from Hebron; or send before- hand to Jerusalem for a muleteer of that place. From E' Nakhl to E' Dahrdih, 150 piastres each camel. Horses thence, according to agreement, from 100 piastres each. From E' Nakhl to Hebron, passing by Petra, each camel 12 to 14 dollars, besides the fee of 200 piastres for each person, and a sheep to the shekh of Petra; also the bakshish to the shekh of the camls, according to his services, and to the guide at Petra. Nothing is charged for the return of camels. (See end of Rte. 9.) The Towara Arabs also, whose ca- mels are hired to Mount Sinai, expect a present of about 50 piastres on arriving at the convent; and the priest who acts as guide receives a dollar for eachb person. Those who go into the convent, and sleep there, make a present of about 200 piastres for a party; but mere visitors give about 2 dollars each. From Cairo to Petra it must be a party, and then the charge is 21. a day, In this, as in every part of the country, it may be observed, as a ge- neral rule, that you are never expected to supply, or pay for, the food of the camels, or the provisions of the Arabs, under any plea whatever; any offer of the kind would infallibly lead to impositions from the very persons it was intended to befriend, and every attempt on their part to make such a demand should be firmly resisted, This I urge the more strongly, as some have Leen very improperly ad- vised to provide beans for the camels, on the plea of having them for their return to El A'kaba, or on some other excuse. You should always engage the Tofara or Tor Arabs and their camels at Cairo, and not be persuaded to go by water from Suez to the town of Tor, on the Red Sea, where, having you in their power, they may demand whatever they choose, without leaving you any alternative but that of re- turning to Suez and abandoning your iutended journey. Another observation I may also make about the tricks upon travellers practised by the Arabs, particularly in Syria, which should not be tole- rated. It sometimes happens that a traveller is stopped on the road by what is said to be a party of hostile Arabs, and obliged to pay a sum of money, as he supposes, to save his life, or to secure the continuation of his journey in safety. Everybody who knows Arab cus- toms must be aware that no one of a hostile tribe can ever enter the ter- ritory of any other Arabs, without the insult being avenged by the sword, and it is evident, if no resist- ance is made on the part of those who conduct the traveller, that the attack- ing party are either some of their own, or of a friendly, tribe who are allowed to spoil him by the very per- sons he pays to protect him; for an Arab would rather die than suffer such an affront from a hostile tribe in his own desert. If then his Arabs do Egyp t 197 ROUTE 8.-CAIRO TO MOUNT SINAI. inot fight on the occasion, he may be sure it is a trick to extort money; he should, therefore, use no arms against the supposed enemies, but afterwards punish his faithless guides by deduct- ing the sum taken from their pay; and it is as well, before starting, to make them enter into an engagement that they are able as well as willing to protect him. I should add, that on starting it is very necessary to see that every camel has its proper and full load; if not, the Arabs will put a few things on each, and go away pretending they are loaded, their object being to get as many engaged as possible. The Tor Arabs, or tribes of the peninsula of Mount Sinai, are, accord- ing to Burckhardt,- I. The Sowalha, the principal tribe, who live to the W. of Mount Sinai, and are subdivided into the- 1. Welad Sieed. 2. Korashee. 3. Owiremeh, part of whom are called Beni-Moshen. 4. Rahamee, or Rahamdih. II. Elegit, or Aleykat, who live ge- nerally with the Mezayneh. This is the same tribe to which those of Wadee el Arab belong, who live about Sabooa in Nubia. III. El Mezayneh, Mezaynat, or Emziyna, to the E. of Mount Sinai. IV. Welad Soolayman; very few ; mostly at Tor and the neighbouring villages. V. Beni Wasel, about 15 families, living with the Mezayneh, ori- ginally from Barbary. And at the northern parts of the p-ninsula the Heywit, the Titha, and the Tarabien. Any idea of travelling with one tribe through a desert belonging to another, when they are not on friendly terms, should never be entertained. There is another disagreeable thing to which travellers are sometimes ex- posed. Two parties of the same tribe quarrel for the right of con- ducting him; and after he has gone some distance on his journey, he and his goods are taken by the opposition eandidates, and transferred to their camels. The war is merely one of words, which the inexperienced in the language cannot understand; but he fully comprehends the annoyance of being nearly pulled to pieces by the two rivals, and his things are some- times thrown on the ground, to the utter destruction of everything fragile. This I believe no longer occurs, but it is as well to provide against it before starting, and a shekh or guide should be secured who has decided authority, and can overawe all parties. Above all things it is important to secure the goodwill of the Arabs, on whom so much of the comfort of a journey necessarily depends. And nothing is easier. It can of course be better done if the traveller speaks Arabic; and I can safely say I never had a disagreement of any kind with any Arab, but have always met with good humour and willingness to oblige on every occasion. In engaging Arabs application is made to one of the shekhs; and when one has been found who has good re- commendations, and his services have been engaged, it is only necessary to go to the consulate, and have the agreement officially drawn up; in which the proper prices, and other par- ticulars, are stipulated. Requisites for the Journey.-Water- skins may be bought at Cairo, and, if new, should be filled and emptied fre- quently to rid them of the disagreeable taste they give to the water. A small skin is now generally taken for the use of the kitchen, and the principal stock is taken in barrels. A tent should also be bought at Cairo. A single-poled tent is the best: and a 12-roped one will accommodate 2 per- sons conveniently, or even 3. It costs about 700 piastres, and a 14-roped tent costs from 1000 to 1500. Extra ropes are useful, as well as a double supply of pegs and mallets. A Mac- intosh sheet or American oilcloth, for damp ground (brought from Europe), some mats, and warm covering are requisite, as well as wax candles, lamps, mishmish (dried apricots), maccaroni, rice, and other provisions. Cooked meat and fowls will last for 2 Sec. II. 198 Egypt. ROUTE 8.-CAIRO TO MOUNT SINAI. 199 days in winter if kept in the shade, passed when pursued by Pharaoh; and and a few live fowls, turkeys, and you may either go direct by the ford, or pigeons may be taken, but preserved round the gulf with the baggage. meats will be found most useful for The manna is still found in the this journey, as a variety to the desert, yet it is rarely met with. Dr. rough fare of rice and lentils. Robinson says, "It is not produced Sheep may also be bought of the every year, sometimes only after 5 or Arabs on the way, at Suez, and in the 6 years, and the quantity in general valleys of Mount Sinai. Some char- has greatly diminished. It is found coal is useful for the first part of the in the form of shining drops, on the road: you afterwards find sufficient twigs and branches (not upon the fuel in the valleys. An extra supply leaves) of the Turfa (Tamarix Gal- of coffee and sdoree tobacco, to give lica mannifera of Ehrenberg), from to the Arabs occasionally, will be found which it exudes in consequence of the useful; and a zemzemieh, or water- puncture of an insect of the Coccus bottle of Russia leather, to suspend kind, Coccus manniparus of the same from your saddle, and the shebbekeh naturalist." It is white, of the size rope-nets for packing baggage on the of a very small pea, and "what falls camels, are of service. The water- upon the sand is said not to be ga- skins, or barrels, should be placed on thered. It has the appearance of these last, and never on the ground, gum, is of a sweetish taste, and melts which often contains much salt. when exposed to the sun, or to a fire." (See also instructions for the journey In Arabic it is called men, and is to the Oasis, in Rte. 18.) sold by the druggists of Cairo. This name is similar to the old Hebrew, Distances. Hours. Min. men or min, 'by which it is mentioned Cairo to Suez (see Rte. 7) 32 30 in the Bible, and which was given i Suez to Ain Moosa (round the in consequence of the uncertainty of gulf), but direct only, 12 the Israelites about this unknown hour ... .. .. 6 to 8 0 substance, who called it men (" what ", Wadee Sudr, middle .. .. 7 40 "for they wist not what it was." Ain Hawarah (Marah?) .. 8 45 Quails, which also served the Is- Wadee Ghurundel (passing raelites for food in their wanderings Hammam Pharaodn about here, still frequent this desert, but 4 m. to the rt.) .. . .. 1 30 they are in very small numbers, and W. Shubaykeh ...... 6 5 always single b'rds. Head of Widee Humr .. .. 8 5 Had I not been prevented visiting Sarabut el Khidem .... 4 30 Mount Sinai, and fulfilling my in- Head of Widee el Berk .. 6 15 tention of surveying that part of the W. e' Shekh ... ...... 6 20 country, I might have spoken with W. Solaf .... .. .. .. 3 30 more confidence of the journeyings of Convent .. .. .. .... 4 0 the Israelites, and of the different places where they encamped during Total from Suez 64 40 their long sojourn there, as well as of the objects most worthy of a visit in - from Cairo 97 10 this desert. But for all that portion beyond Suez .I am indebted to the ob- But the journey to Suez is now per- servations of others, and to the assist- formed by railway in 5 hours. ance of some friends who have visited In leaving Suez for Mount Sinai it. The distances are taken from Dr. you pass at a short distance from the Robinson. water-side, round the end of the gulf. After passing round the gulf the The camels, which bring water to Suez road crosses "the track leading from from the fountains of Naba or Ghir- the ferry of Suez to the fountain of kuden, cross the ford at the spot where Nhba, or,' as it was called by the the Israelites are supposed . to have Arabs, El Ghurkudeh, from which 200 ROUTE 8.-CAIRO TO MOUNT SINAI. Sect. II. that town is supplied with water for memorial of the passage of the:Israel- drinking. From this point the foun- ites. The temperature of .the largest tain is apparently 3 m. distant;" and spring is about 157� Fahr., and the after an hour's march along the coast water is strongly impregnated with you come to the Aia Moosa, or "foun- sulphur and common salt. They lie tai of Moses." Here are some wild some distance out of the road, and to palm-trees, and a small spot of landl visit them is a detour of several miles. irrigated by the brackish water of its The direct road from Wadee Ghurun- springs, and cultivated by a few felhtahs del, after having passed to the E. of from Suez. Some broken pottery, this mountain, takes a curve more in- and a low mound of rubbish, mark land, and then divides into 2, one "the site of a former village." In going to Mount Sinai by Wadee Humr Wadee Sudr are the head-quarters of and Sarabut el Khadem to the 1., the the Tarabeen Arabs, "who claim the other by Wadee Mukuttub and Wadee whole territory from opposite Suez to Faran to the rt., which may be called Wadee Ghirundel; and at the head the lower road. of it is the isolated peak of Tisat At Nusb, or Nizbeh, a short dis- Sudr, which is a conspicuous point on tance off the road to the rt., about 4 the road from Suez, and is seen from m. before reaching Sarabut el Khi- the interior of the Egyptian desert. dem, are ancient copper-works, and Ain Howarah is supposed to be the many inscriptions in what has been Marah of the Israelites, where they called the Sinaitic character, from found "bitter" water, - "therefore having been considered peculiar to the name of it was called Marah." the desert of Mount Sinai. They The water is brackish, and "some- have been attributed to the Israelites; what bitter;" and though no stream but this hypothesis is quite untenable, ever flows from the basin, "there are as they are not of that remote age, traces of running water round about." and they are found on the western, or Much has been said of the supposed Egyptian, side of the Red Sea, and nature of the tree which, when are evidently of people who navigated Moses "had east into the waters" of that part of the gulf, and visited the Marah, they " were made sweet;" ports or watering-places upon its and some have imagined it to be shores. I have found them on the the Ghardek, or Ghurkud, which rocks near the sea at Gebel Aboo abounds in these deserts. The red Durrag4on the Egyptian side of the berry of that bush is eaten, but is not Arabian Gulf, and others have been supposed to have any virtue in sweet- met with in the interior, at Wadee ening water; though there is a tree Dthahal, as well as at e' Gimsheh, called yessur, common in the Maazee and, as I have been told by Mr. desert, the seeds of whose long pods, Burton, in the grottoes of Wadee when eaten before drinking, render Om-Dthummerina. Not only is the the taste of water peculiarly sweet. character the same, but the inscrip- It is the Moringa aptera, and the seed tions begin with the same word, as at is called in Arabic Hab-ghdlee. Mount Sinai; and in some of these The road from Ain Howirah con- last there appears to be evidence of tinues at some distance from, and their being of Christian time. nearly parallel with, the sea, till it The only ruins at Nizbeh are some passes on the rt. the mountain of small stone houses, probably miners' Hammam Phara6on, "the baths of huts; and the scoria of copper shows Pharaoh," which projects into the sea that metal to have been worked or about 45 geographical m. to the smelted there, though no mines have S.S.E. of Suez. This mountain is been found in the neighbourhood. so called from the hot springs that Instances of this frequently occur in rise at its foot on the sea-shore; and the deserts, which was in consequence a fanciful tradition of the -Arabs has of their finding more wood in parti- named it after the Egyptian king, as a cular places for smelting the ore. ROUTE 8.---8A-RBUT EL KiEIADRM. SAl.BUT EL KHDEM.-Sardbut (or Sarbdot) el-Khddem is remarkable for its numerous hieroglyphic tablets, of very ancient date, and for the pe- culiar appearance of the place. It is a rocky eminence about I of an hour's walk from the road, on a range of sandstone hills, with a footpath on one side, leading to its extensive flat summit, at one end of which is a con- fused mass of ruins and many tablets, some fallen, some standing erect, covered with hieroglyphics, which from their containing the names of very early Pharaohs are worthy the attention of the Egyptian antiquary. A plan of these ruins is much wanted. Besides the numerous tablets with- in the building, are others on the outside, and some at a distance of 2 a m. from the entrance. They bear the names of various Pharaohs, among which are Senofro (fig. 3),-Osirtasen I. -the 3rd and 4th Amun-sh-he (figs. 1, 2)-Amun-nou-het, the queen of the great obelisk at Karnak,-Thothmes III. and IV.,-and Amunoph I. and III.,-Sethi or Osirei I. and his son Remeses the Great,-Osirei III.,- Remeses IV. and V., and some others. 1. 2. 3. The ancient name of Sarabut el Khdem seems to have been Mafak, or Mefka, signifying the land of copper. Athor was the presiding deity, and Re (or Mandoo) probably shared the honours of the place. About 2 m. to the S.E. of the ruins of Sarabut el Khidem are three ta- blets cut in the face of the rock, bear- ing the names of Thothmes IV. and another old king: and close to them are small caves in the rock, used as tombs. -- On the lower, or western road, at Gebel el Mukuttub, or "the written mountain," the Sinaitic inscriptions occur in considerable numbers. They cover the rocks on both sides of the valley during great part of a day's journey, principally on the S. side, towards the Gebel, or "mountain," of that name. There are also a few in Arabic and Greek. Other Sinaltic inscriptions are found near the supposed rock of Moses; between it and the convent of the forty martyrs; and again on the rocks of Mount Catherine; and some are met with in Wadee Meggub and W. Barak. At Wadee Maghdra, which runs from Wadee Mulkuttub to the upper road, are some Sinaitic and hiero- glyphic inscriptions of early time; the latter containing the names of 4. Remai (4), who was the same as Papi, - of Shofo, Suphis, or Cheops (5),- of Nou-Shofo (6;,-and of several 5. 6. other very ancient Pharaohs of the 4th, 5th, and 6th dynasties. The word Maghira signifies a "cave." 7. 8. lo.t 10.Ii K3 Egypt. 201 ROUTE 8.---CAIRO TOT MOUNT SINAI. In Wadee Tdneh are other hiero- towers. Moreover, the monks have glyphic inscriptions, with the names small arms, and even cannon; but of early Pharaohs; and on a sandstone there is little reason to suppose that circumstances or their inclination 12. 13. 15. often call for their use; and however S successful they might be in hostility @ � against the Arabs, the death of their enemies would be a far greater mis- fortune than advantage to the con- vent, and would be severely avenged by the stoppage of their supplies. We may, therefore, conclude that visit- ors know much more of these wea- pons than the Arabs, and that the 14 defence of the convent consists, as �becomes a Christian community, more in the friendly offices performed to ^^ the Arabs than in their arms: and its inaccessible walls, being a sufficient rock in Wadee ]eneh is that of Amun- barrier to unwelcome strangers, suffice &i-he III, of the 12th dynasty, with to prevent the intrusion of idle or ill- the date of his 3rd year. (No. 15.) disposed persons. Though they have Wadee Faran, which, as Niebuhr a back entrance through the garden, says, has not changed its name since from which an underground passage the days of Moses, is on the western communicates with the interior, the road to Mount Sinai. It is a sort of usual mode of admittance is by a Oasis, with high mountains, where a trap-door, or window, raised about stream of water flows; which, after 30 ft. from the ground, to which visit- bursting forth and running with ra- ois are drawn up by ropes, as at the pidity for a few hundred yards, is lost convents of St. Antony and St. Paul, in the sand. Here are several gar- in the Eastern Desert of Egypt. The dens with date-trees, claimed by the interior consists of several courts, Tor ;Arabs as belonging to them, and with two sets of rooms, one over the cultivated by some of the Gebeleih, a other; the doors of the ground-floors sort of Arab peasantry, who live there, opening on the open area, and those These felldhs pay a tribute to the of the upper story on a balcony or Arabs in dates. wooden corridor that runs round it. COnvent of Mount Sinai.-The con- The inmates are Greek Christians. vent is situated in a narrow valley, In the church are preserved the relics backed on the S.W. by the bold gra- of the patron, St. Catherine; though nite peaks of Mount Sinai, that give a Burckhardt says Seetzen is wrong in grandeur to the scene, while they ac- calling it the "Convent of St. Cathe- cord with the character of the secluded rine," as it is not dedicated to her, but spot chosen for the abode of monks. to the Transfiguration, or, as the In addition to these impressions,- the Greeks call it, the Metamorphosis. traveller is delighted by the appear- That, however, is the name by which ance of a habitation, and the sight of it is generally known; though it does other objects Vas rare and pleasing in not prevent St. George from receiving the desert as the abode of human a few spare honours is a small chapel beings,-the green trees of a garden, on the walls, where lie is represented which, however small, has in such a on his white horse, warring with the spot peculiar charms, dragon, and with all the rules of draw- .'he convent stands on the slope of ing, in much the same manner as he 4 rising ground, on the western side usually does in the Coptic churches; df the valley. It is surrounded by a and the votaries of Islam are flattered strong and lofty wall, defended by by the admission of a mosk within the Sect. I. 202 ROu-TE: 8.---CONVENT OF MOUNT SINAI precincts of the convent, the object of which is the same as that of the monks of Bibbeh when they convert their saint into a Moslem shekh. Nor is this the only safeguard against the animosity of their religious enemies, or the assaults of the Arab freebooter. The monks of Mount Sinai have a claim on the protection, or, at least, on 'the toleration of the Moslems, by the express order of Mohammed, given them during his (supposed) visit to their convent, which enjoins his fol- lowers to abstain from molesting its charitable and useful inmates, on con- dition of their feeding those who pass by. This precious document was pre- served by them with becoming respect within the convent, until Sultan Selim begged or demanded its removal to Constantinople, substituting another written by him for the same purpose. . The convent only contains, at this time, about 30 monks. They are go- verned by a superior; and some are priests, others lay brethren. The various duties required for the benefit of the community are divided amongst its members. One is the baker, an- other the miller, and another the cook; one has the care of the church, an- other of the dresses; in short, every department is in the hands of a re- sponsible person-one of the brethren -and no strange servant is admitted within the walls. They have stores sufficient to last for a length of time, which they take care to replenish long before they are too much diminished; and every attention is paid to those measures which render them inde- pendent of the Arabs, and capable of at least passive defence. The great church is ornamented in the manner of similar buildings of early Christian times. It has a double row of Corinthian columns, and on the dome over the altar is represented the Crucifixion in mosaic, of the By- zantine style, with portraits of Jus- tinian and the Empress Theodora. The screen separating the altar from the nave is elaborately worked, and rich with gilding; a large cross towers above all, rising nearly to the roof, and the altar is resplendent with chalices, candlesticks, and other ornaments. Numerous handsome silver lamps are suspended from different parts of the ceiling, and many bad pictures of saints ornament or disfigure the walls. "The exterior of the church," says Mr. Kinnear, "is without any archi- tectural beauty; but one little circum- stance struck me as very interesting. This was several shields and coats of arms rudely engraved on the stone, on each side of the entrance; me- morials, no doubt of the chivalry of the Crusades, and perhaps scratched with the daggers of some knightly pilgrims." The most sacred spot within this building is the chapel of the Burning Bush. "We descended a few steps," says the same traveller, "from the interior of the church to a low door, where we were required to take off our shoes, before entering this sanc- tum sanctorum of the monks, who displayed a great deal more fuss and ceremony about admitting us, than reverence after we were in. It is a small circular chapel under a dome, lighted by two or three lamps, and containing nothing worthy of note; except two very beautiful illuminated MSS. of the gospels, which were lying on the altar." This Bush is a sort of bramble. They also show the silver lid of a sarcophagus representing a full-length figure of the Empress Ann of Russia; uho, it seems, intended to be buried there; and another, said to contain the bones of St. Catherine, which were found in the neighbouring moun- tain; whither, according to the monk- ish legend, her body was conveyed by angels. The spot is still minarked by a small chapel, or hut, which covers a bed hollowed out of the rock, where the bones lay, and is looked upon with great respect by the credulous. In the library of the convent are a few printed books, and some Greek, Arabic, and other MSS. The convent is said to have been founded by the Emperor Justinian ; but Pococke observes that St. Helena, the mother of Constantine, appears to have been the first to lay the founda- jgypt. 203 204 ROUTE 8.-CAIRO TO MOUNT SINAI. Sect. IT. tion of it in the tower she built, pro- hollow recess at the plape where it bably for herself and the monks, when was stopped in its fall. It isaemark- she went to Mount Sinai. This tower able for an unusual appearance in the is in the middle of the convent, where centre of one side, which the credu- the archbishop lives, and is called lous have converted into the marks of after the name of the empress. falling water. There are several small chapels in On the top of Sinai is shown a the neighbourhood, and the ruins of fissure in the rock, where Moses is other convents, which are among the supposed to have retired when the objects visited by strangers, but pos- glory of the Lord passed by; which, sess.no interest beyond that given by like all other localities, has been long local tradition. looked upon with undoubting faith Some poor people, styling them- by the monks, and has been often selves Gebelkih, "mountaineers," live questioned by sceptics. in the vicinity of the convent. They From Suez to the town of Tor the are said, by Burckhardt, to be de- rocks are limestone; the primitive scended from a few slaves, originally range extends thence nearly to Ras Christians, from the shores of the Mohammed, the headland at its Black Sea, who were sent by Justinian southern extremity, at the point of as menial servants to the priests, which the limestone again appears, They are dependent for their food on and runs to the eastward, or N.E., the monks, in the same manner as along the coast to a little beyond tl'ose of Wadee Arraba are maintained e' Shurm, where the primitive rocks by the convent of St. Antony. again advance to the sea. All the The Gebel Moosa consists of two mountain ranges about Gebel Moosa parts; the lower portion has been and the convent are primitive, and called 1Mount Horeb, and the name of stretch thence in a north-easterly di- Mount Sinai has been applied to the rection to Saribut el Khidem, where highest peak, which stands upon the the sandstones begin, intervening be- elevated platform of Horeb. tween the primitive and the limestone I do not venture, nor do I feel strata, and extending thence on the myself authorised, to give any opinion west nearly to the town of Tor, and respecting the disputed claims of on the east in the direction of El Gebel Moosa and Mount Catherine to Akaba. the sites of Sinai and Horeb of Scrip- The town of Tor is not worth ture. Nor will I enter into the visiting. It is a mere seaport, inferior question of Horeb being the name to Suez, and about 40 m. from the used to denote "the whole wilderness, convent. including the lower group, called The ancient name by which it was Gebel Serbal, as well as the upper known to the Romans was Phcenicon, group of Mount Sinai;" or of Sinai probably meaning "of the palm-trees," being, as Mr. Kinnear supposes, "the ldiers, as proofs of their success. Three thousand five hundred and thirty-five hands and tongues form part of the registered returns; and two other heaps, and a third of tongues, containing each a somewhat larger number, are "brought " under the superintendence of the chief officers, like David's trophies, "to the king." (Cf. 1 Sam. xviii. 27, and 2 Kings x. 8.) The monarch then alights from his chariot and distributes rewards to his troops. In the next compartment, the king's military secretaries draw up an account of the number of spears, bows, swords, and other arms taken from the enemy, which are laid before them; and mention seems to be made in the hieroglyphics of the horses that have been captured. Remeses then proceeds in his car, having his bow and sword in one hand and his whip in the other, indi- cating that his march still lies through an enemy's country. The van of his army is composed of a body of cha- riots; the infantry, in close order, pre- ceding the royal car, constitute the centre, and other similar corps form the wings and rear, They are again summoned by sound of trumpet to the attack of another Asiatic enemy, and in the next compartment the Egyptian monarch gives orders for the charge of the hostile army drawn up in the open plain. Assisted by their allies, the Shairetana, a maritime peo- ple armed with round bucklers and spears, they fall upon the undisciplined troops of the enemy, who, after a short conflict, are routed, and retreat in great disorder. The women endeavour to escape with their children on the first approach of the Egyptians, and retire in plaustra drawn by oxen. The flying chariots denote the greatness of the general panic, and the conquerors pur- sue them to the interior of the country. Here, while passing a large morass, the king is attacked by several lions, one of which, transfixed with darts and arrows, he lays breathless beneath his horse's feet; another attempts to fly towards the jungle, but, receiving a last and fatal wound, writhes in the agony of approaching death. A third springs up from behind his car, and the hero prepares to receive and check its fury with his spear. Below this group is represented the march of the Egyptian army. with their allies, the Shairetana, the Shaso or Shos? (supposed to be Arabs), and a third corps, armed with clubs, whose form and character are very imperfectly preserved. The enemy, having continued their rapid retreat, take refuge in the ships of a maritime nation, to whose country they have retired for shelter. The Egyptians attack them with a fleet of galleys, which in their shape differ essentially from those used on the Nile. The general form of the vessels of both combatants is very similar : a raised gunwale, protecting the rowers from the missiles of the foe, extends from the head to the stern, and a lofty poop and forecastle contain each a body of archers; but the head of a lion, which ornaments the prows of the Egyptian galleys, serves to distin- guish them from those of the enemy. The former bear down their opponents, and succeed in boarding them and taking several prisoners. One of the hostile galleys is upset, and the slingers 344 Sec. IV. in the shrouds, with the archers and historical scenes the king makes suit- spearmen on the prows, spread dismay able offerings to the gods of Egypt; among the few who resist. The king, and on the remaining part of the E. trampling on the prostrate bodies of wall, to the S. of the second propylon, the enemy, and, aided by a corps of another war is represented. bowmen, discharges from the shore a In the first picture the king, alighted continued shower of arrows; and his from his chariot, armed with his spear attendants stand at a short distance and shield, and trampling on the with his chariot and horses, awaiting prostrate bodies of the slain, besieges his return. Below the scene the con- the fort of an Asiatic enemy, whom he quering army leads in triumph the pri- forces to sue for peace. In the next soners of the two nations they have he attacks a larger town surrounded captured in the naval fight, and the by water. The Egyptians fell the amputated hands of the slain are laid trees in the woody country which sur- in heaps before the military chiefs. rounds it, probably to form testudos Though this custom savours of bar- and ladders for the assault. Some are barism, the humanity of the Egyptians already applied by their comrades to is very apparent in the above conflict; the walls, and, while they reach their where the soldiers on the shore and in summit, the gates are broken open, the ships do their utmost to rescue and the enemy are driven from the their enemies from a watery grave, ramparts, or precipitated over the The site of this naval fight has been parapet, by the victorious assailants, thought to be one of the inland seas or who announce by sound of trumpet the lakes in Asia; others suppose it to be capture of the place. In the third the Mediterranean. At all events it is compartment, on the N. face of the probable that a war against some distant first propylon, Remeses attacks two nation was the occasion of the revolt of large towns, the upper one of which the Tochari, part of whom had served is taken with little resistance, the with the Egyptians against the Rebo. Egyptian troops having entered it and But the complete success of Remeses gained possession of the citadel. In over his enemies necessarily led to the the lower one the terrified inhabitants pnnishment of the Tochari, whose de- are engaged in rescuing their children fection at such a crisis justly excited from the approaching danger, by hur- the vengeance of the Egyptians; and rying them into the ramparts of the their immediate defeat and subsequent outer wall. The last picture occupies flight to a neighbouring tribe prove the upper or N. end of the E. side, that they had not the same power of where the king presents his prisoners resisting the yoke of their masters, as to the gods of the temple. the maritime nation, on whose suc- The western wall is entirely covered cessful opposition to the Egyptians by a large hieroglyphical tablet, re- they had founded the hopes of their cording various offerings made in the own safety. Thus may we account for different months of the year by Re- their being, in one instance, the allies meses III. of the Egyptians against the Rebo, and The head and forepart of several for the march of Remeses to their lions project, at intervals, from below country after the defeat of that people; the cornice of the exterior of the which might at first sight appear to building, whose perforated mouths present some difficulty. communicating by a tube with the In the next compartment the king summit of the roof, served as conduits distributes rewards to his victorious for the rain-water which occasionally troops; and then, proceeding to Egypt, fell at Thebes. Nor were they ne- he conducts in triumph the captive glectful of any precaution that might Rebo and Tochari (Tokkari ?), whom secure the paintings of the interior he offers to the Theban Triad, Amun, from the effects of rain; and the joints Maut, and Khonso Khons). of the stones which formed the ceiling In the compartments above these being protected by a long piece of Q3 345 BATTLE SCENES. U Egyt. DESCRIPTION OF THEBES. stone, let in immediately over the line of their junction, were rendered im- pervious to the heaviest storm. For showers fall annually at Thebes: per- haps on an average four or five in the year; and every eight or ten years heavy rains fill the torrent-beds of the mountains, which run to the banks of the Nile. A storm of this kind did much damage to Belzoni's tomb some years ago. Square apertures were also cut at intervals in the roofs, the larger ones intended for the admission of light, the smaller probably for suspending the chains that supported lamps for the illumination of the interior. 6. OTHER RUINS. Six hundred and fifty feet S.W. of the pavilion of Medednet Haboo is a small Ptolemaic temple, dedicated to Thoth. In the adytum are some curious hieroglyphical subjects, which have thrown great light upon the names and succession of the Ptolemies who preceded Physcon, or Euergetes II. This-monarch is here represented making offerings to four of his prede- cessors, Soter, Philadelphus, Philo- pator, and Epiphanes, each name being accompanied by that of their respective queens. It is here, in particular, that the position of the Ptolemaic cogno- men, as Soter, Philadelphus, and others, satisfactorily proves that it is after, and not in the name, that we must look for the title which distinguished each of these kings; nor will any one conversant with hieroglyphics fail to remark the adoption of these cogno- mens in each prenomen of a succeed- ing Ptolemy; a circumstance analo- gous to the more ancient mode of bor- rowing, pr quartering, from the pre- nomens 6f an earlier Pharaoh some of the characters that composed that of a later king. This small sandstone building, whose total length does not exceed 48 ft., consists of a transverse outer court, and three smaller successive chambers, communicating with each other. Near it, to the W.., was an artificial basin, now forming a pond of irregular shape during the inundation, and surrounded on three sides by mimosas; beyond which, to the N.W. and W., are the traces of some ruins, the remains of Egyptian and Copt tombs, and the limited enclosure of a modern church. A low plain, once a lake, extends from the S.W. of this temple to the distance of 7300 ft., by a breadth of 3000, whose limits are marked by high mounds of sand and alluvial soil; on one series of which stands the modern village of Kom el Byrat, the two south- ernmost presenting the vestiges of tombs and the relics of human skele- tons. This lake is called Birket Hdboo. Lake. - That the tradition, which makes this Birket Hdboo a real lake, is founded on fact, is evident from the ap- pearance of the mounds of alluvial soil around it, which are taken from its ex- cavated bed; and if required, we might find an additional proof in the upper part of the mounds on the desert side hav- ing on their summit some of the stones that form the substratum beneath the alluvial deposit. The excavation was evidently made after the mud of the inundation had accumulated consider- ably upon the Theban plain; and though a smaller lake had probably been made there before, this larger one may not date till after the age of Amunoph III., his colossi being based on the stony hager of the desert, which the inundation did not then reach. The lake was intended for the same purpose as that of Memphis; and it is not impossible that the tombs on its southern shores may have been of those offenders who were doomed to be excluded from a participation in the funeral honours which the pious enjoyed in the consecrated mansions of the dead on the N. side of this Acherusian lake :-'' Centum errant annos."-For I believe that the proces- sion of boats, so often represented in the tombs of Thebes, accompanying the deceased, took place on this lake ; and the coffins, being then removed from the boat, and placed on a sledge, were drawn with great solemnity to the tomb destined to receive them. Another Small Temple.-Three thou- 346 Sect. IV. U. Egypti TowBS or T sand feet S.W. of the western angle of the lake is a small temple of Roman date, bearing the name of Adrian, and of Antoninus Pius, who completed it, and added the pylon in front. Its total length is 45 ft., and breadth 53; with an isolated sanctuary in the centre, two small chambers on the N.E., and three on the S.W. side; the first of which contains a staircase leading to the roof. In front stand two pylons, the outermost one being distant from the door of the temple about 200. ft. Eight thousand feet N.N.W. of Me- deenet Hiboo is the Gabbdnet el Kerood, or "Apes' burial-ground," so called from the ape mummies found in the ravines of the torrents in its vicinity. Among other unusual figures care- fully interred here are small idols in form of human mummies, with the em- blem of the god of generation. Their total length does not exceed 2 ft., and an exterior coat of coarse composition which forms the body, surmounted by a HE QUEENS. 347 glyphics on the jamb of the inner door of this tomb, that these are the bury- ing-places of the Pallacides, or Pellices Jovis, mentioned by Strabo and Dio- dorus; and the distance of 10 stadia from these "first " or westernmost tombs to the sepulchre of Osyman- dyas agrees with that from the sup- posed Memnonium to this valley. The mummies of their original pos- sessors must have suffered in the ge- neral conflagration which reduced to ashes the contents of most of the tombs in this and the adjacent valley of Dayr el Medeeneh; and the bodies of inferior persons and of Greeks, less carefully embalmed, have occupied at a subsequent period the vacant burial- places of their royal predecessors. (For the Pallacides, see my Ancient Egyptians, vol. iv. p. 203.) 8. OTHER TOMBS. human head with the bonnet "of the At the opposite or eastern extremity upper country" made of wax, conceals of this valley are several tablets of the their singular but simple contents of first Amunoph, and other monarchs of barley. the 18th and 19th dynasties; and from hence a short path leads over 7. TOMBS OF THE QUEENS. the hills to the secluded valley of Dayr el Medeeneh, behind the Koornet- Three thousand feet immediately Murraee. Here several tombs of the behind and to the N.W. of Medednet early date of the same Amunoph, Hiboo is the valley of the queens' tombs, which claim the attention of the chro- But they have few attractions for those nologer, rather than the admiration of who are not interested in hieroglyph- the traveller who seeks elegant de- ics; :and who will be probably satisfied signs or interesting sculptures, extend with the tombs of the kings, of Abd el along the brow of the N.W. hill; and Koorneh, and of the Assasedf. Among a series of pits and crude-brick cham- the most distinguished names in the bers occupy the space between these sepulchres of the queens are those of and the brick enclosure of a Ptolemaic Amunmeit, or Amun-tmei, the daugh- temple to the E. Among the most ter of Amunoph I.; of Taia, wife of remarkable of these tombs is one con- the third Amunoph; of the favourite taining the members of Amunoph's daughlter of Remeses II.; and of the family, and some of his predecessors; consort of Remeses V. In another and another, whose crude-brick roof appears the name of the third Re- and niche, bearing the name of the meses, but that of his queen is not same Pharaoh, prove the existence of met with either on its walls or on its the arch at the remote period of the 16th broken sarcophagus. All these tombs century B.C. I may also mention a have suffered from the effects of fire; crude-brick pyramid of an early epoch; and little can be satisfactorily traced and a tomb, under the western rock, of their sculptures, except in that of which offers to the curiosity of chrono- Queen Taia. logers the names of three successive It is not improbable, from the hiero- kings, and their predecessor Amu- THEBES.-DAYR EL MEDEENEI, noph I., seated with a black queen. Other vaulted tombs have since been found of kings of the 18th and 19th dynasties. The deity who presided over this valley, and the mountain behind it, was Athor, " the guardian of the west;" and many of the tombs have a statue of the cow, which was sacred to her, whose head and breast project in high relief from their innermost wall. 9. DAYR EL MEDEENEH. The small Ptolemaic temple to the E., called Dayr el M]edeeneh, from hav- ing been the abode of the early Chris- tians, was erected by Ptolemy Philo- pator. It measures 60 ft. by 33. Being left unfinished, it was completed by Physcon, or Euergetes II., who added the sculptures to the walls of the in- terior, and part of the architectural details of the portico; the pylon in front bearing the name of Dionysus. The vestibule is ornamented with. two columns supporting the roof, but it is unsculptured. The corridor is sepa- rated from this last by intercolumnar screens, uniting, on either side of its entrance, one column to a pilaster surmounted by the head of Athor. On the E. wall of this corridor or pro- naos, Ptolemy Philometor, followed by "his brother, the god," Physcon, and the, queen Cleopatra, makes offerings to Amunre; but the rest of the sculp- tures appear to present the names of Physcon alone, who adopted on his brother's death, the name and oval of Philometor, with the additional title of "god Soter.' A staircase, lighted by a window of peculiar form, once led to the roof; and the back part of the naos consists of three parallel chambers. The centre one, or adytum, presents the sculp- tures of Philopator on the back and half the side walls, which last were completed by the 2nd Euergetes; as rmcorded in a line of hieroglyphics at the junction of the first and subse- quent compartments. Amunre, with Maut and Khonso, Athor and Justice, share the honours of the adytum; but the dedication of Philopator de- cides that the temple was consecrated to the Egyptian Aphrodite, " the pre- sident of the west." In the eastern chamber Philopator again appears in the sculptures of the end wall, where Athor and Justice, hold the chief place; while Amunre and Osiris, the principal deities in the lateral com- partments, receive the offerings of Euergetes II. In the western chamber the sub- jects are totally different from any found in the temples of Thebes; and appear to have a sepulchral character. Here Philopator pays his devotions to Osiris and Isis; on the E. side Phys- con offers incense to the statue of Khem, preceded by Anubis, and fol- lowed by the ark of Sokari; and on the opposite wall is the judgment scene, frequently found on the papyri of the Egyptians. Osiris, seated on his throne, awaits the arrival of those souls which are ushered into Amenti the four genii stand before him on a lotus-blossom; and the female Cer- berus is there, with Harpocrates seated on the crook of Osiris. Thoth, the god of letters, presents himself before the king of Hades, bearing in his hand a tablet, on which the actions of the deceased are noted down; while Horms and Aroeris are employed in weighing the good deeds of the judged against the ostrich -feather, the symbol of Justice or Truth. A cynocephalus, the emblem of Thoth, is seated on the top of the balance. At length c,,mes the deceased; who advances between two figures of the goddess, and bears in his hand the symbol of Truth, indi- cating his meritorious actions, and his fitness for admission to the ;resence of Osiris. The 42 assessors, seated above, in two lines, complete the sculptures of the W. wall; and all these symbols of death seem to show that the chamber was dedicated to Osiris, in his peculiar character of judge of the dead. Besides the monarchs by whom the temple was commenced, we may men- tion the "Autocrator Cssar," or Au- gustus, whose name appears at the back of the naos. Several enchorial and Coptic in- 348 Sect. Iva U. Egypt. DAYR EL scriptions have been written in the in- terior, and on the outside of the vesti- bule, whose walls, rent by the sinking of the ground and human violence, make us acquainted with a not uncom- mon custom of Egyptian architects,- the use of wooden dovetailed cramps, which connected the blocks of masonry. Wood, in a country where very little rain falls, provided the stones are closely fitted together, lasts for ages, as may be seen by these sycamore cramps ; and the Egyptians calculated very accu- rately the proportionate durability of different substances, and the situation adapted to their respective properties. Hence, they preferred sandstone to calcareous blocks for the construction of their temples, a stone which, in the dry climate of Egypt, resists the action of the atmosphere much longer than either limestone e--granite; but they used calcareous substructions beneath the soil, because they were known to endure where the contact with the salts would speedily decompose the harder but less durable granite. The walls surrounding the court of this temple present a peculiar style of building, the bricks being disposed in concave and convex courses form- ing a waving line, which rises and falls alternately along their whole length. Of the grottoes in the Koornet (Goornat) Murraee I shall speak in noticing the catacombs of Thebes. (See � 13 in this Section.) 10. DYR EL BAHREE. After passing the hill of Shekh Abd � el Koorneh, at the northern extremity of the Assasedf, and immediately below the cliffs of the Libyan mountain, is an ancient temple, whose modern name, Dayr el Bahree, or the "northern con- vent," indicates its having served, like most of the temples at Thebes, as a church and monastery of the early Christians. An extensive dromos of 1600 ft , ter- nainated at the S.E. by a sculptured pylon, whose substructions alone mark its site, led in a direct line between a double row of sandstone sphinxes to ] BAHREE. 349 the entrance of its square enclosure; before which two pedestals still point out the existence of the obelisks they once supported. Following the same line, and 200 ft. to the N.W. of this gateway, is an inclined plane of ma- sonry, leading to a granite pylon in front of the inner court; and about 150 ft. from the base of this ascent a wall at right angles with it extends on either side to the distance of 100 ft., having before it a peristyle of eight polygonal columns, forming a covered corridor. When the front of these ruins was first laid open, the inner face of this corridor (which was the front of the first scarp of a series of terraces) was ornamented with elegant and finishet sculptures. On the S.W. side several regiments of Egyptian soldiers were seen with boughs in their hands, bear- ing the weapons of their peculiar corps, and marching to the celebration of a triumph, to the sound of the trumpet and drum. An ox was sacrificed, and tables of offerings to the deity of Thebes were laid out in the presence of the troops. The rest of the sculptures were already destroyed, but the remains of two boats proved that the upper com- partments were finished with the same care as those I have just mentioned. On the corresponding wall of the N.E. side two obelisks were sculp- tured, dedicated to Amunre by the monarch who founded this building, and who erected the great obelisks of Karnak; but from the following trans- lation of the little that remained of their hieroglyphics it is evident that they differed widely from those of the grdat temple of Diospolis; and I sup- pose them to have stood on the pedes- tals of the dromos above alluded to. The inscription, after mentioning the name of Pharaoh Amun-nou-het, says -" She has made (this her work for her father Amunre, lord of the regions, (and) erected to him two fine obelisks of granite . . . she did this (to whom) life is given, like the sun, for ever." On the same wall, below the hand of the deity, was the following inscrip- tion :--" This work (i, e. sculpture) made he, the king Remeses (II.), to THEBES.-DAYR EL BAIREE. his father Amunre." Beyond were some elegant fowling scenes, and other sculptures; and on the W. wall stood a series of hawks in very prominent relief, about the height of a man, sur- mounted by the asp and globe, the emblems of the sun and of the king as Pharaoh. Though I took some trouble to pro- tect the sculptures of these terraces, I believe they have now been mostly destroyed, and some fragments of them have been removed, and sold in Eng- land. The granite pylon at the upper ex- tremity of the inclined ascent bore, like the rest of the building, the name of the founder, Amun-nou-het, which, in spite of the architectural usurpation of the third Thothmes, is still traced in the ovals of the jambs and lintel. Nor is it from the appearance of the ovals alone that we are enabled to restore this, as well as the rest of the temple, to its original founder; the very sense of the hieroglyphics would remove all doubts, if any existed, regarding this fact, from the singular circum- stance of the female signs being used throughout them, so manifestly at variance with the name of this king. For instance, on the jamb we read, after the name of Thothmes III. (but still preceded by the square title, ban- ner, or escutcheon of Pharaoh Amun- nou-het), " She has made this work for her father, ' Aminunre, lord of the re- gions' (i. e. of Upper and Lower Egypt): she has erected to him this fine gateway,-' Amun protects' the work,-of granite; she has done this (to whom) life is given for ever." Beyond this pylon, following the same line of direction, is a small area of a later epoch, and another granite pylon, being the entrance of a large chamber to which it is attached. This, as well as the facade on either side, presented the name of Amun-nou-het, erased to admit those of Thothmes II. and III.; and in other chambers to the W., and within the court between the two pylons, the same name has suffered a similar outrage. That of Thothmes I. also appears among the sculptures ; but as he is stated to have been " de- ceased " at the time of its insertion, he must have been a predecessor of the founder of the building. The inner chambers are made to imitate vaults, like the one still re- maining on the outside; but they are not on the principle of the arch, being composed of blocks placed horizon- tally, one projecting beyond that im mediately below it, till the uppermost two meet in the centre; the interior angles being afterwards rounded off to form the vault. The Egyptians were not, however, ignorant of the principle or use of the arch, as I have had oc- casion to observe; and the reason of their preferring one of this construction probably arose from the difficulty of repairing an injured vault in the tun- nelled rock, and the consequences attending the decay of a single block. Nor can any one, in observing the great superincumbent weight applied to the haunches, suppose that this style of building is devoid of strength, and of the usual durability of an Egyptian fabric, or pronounce it to be ill-suited to the purpose for which it was erected, the support of the friable rock of the mountain, within whose excavated base it stood, and which threatened to let fall its crumbling masses on its summit. The entrance to these vaulted chambers is by a granite doorway; and the first, which measures 30 ft. by 12, is ornamented with sculptures that throw great light on the names of some of the members of the Thothmes family. Here Thothmes I., and his queen Ames, accompanied by their young daughter, but all "deceased" at the time of its construction, receive. the adoration and offerings of Amun- nou-let, and of Thothmes III., fol- lowed by his daughter Re-ni-nofre. The niche and inner door also present the name of the former, effaced by the same Thothmes, whose name throughout the interior usurps the place of his predecessor's. To this succeeds a smaller apartment, which, like the 2 lateral rooms with which it communicates, has a vaulted roof; and beyond is an adytum of the late date of Ptolemy Physcon. 350 Sect. IV. FL Egypt. TOMBS oF T Several blocks, used at a later period to repair the wall of the inner or upper court, bear hieroglyphics of various epochs, having been brought from other structures; among which the most re- markable are- one containing the name of King Horus, the predecessor of Re- meses I., and mentioning "the father of his father's father's father, Tothmes III., who was, in reality, his fourth ancestor; and another of the 4th year of Pthahmen, the son of Remeses II. It had been long supposed that a communication existed from this temple to the Valley of the Kings, for which reason, indeed, I was induced to open the inner part during my stay in 1827. But the appearance of the end room sufficiently decides the question, and proves this conjecture to have been ill- founded; and it will be seen from the survey that the nearest, and conse- quently most opportune spot for such a communication, is not on the exact line of this building. On the E. side of the dromos, and about 600 ft. from the pedestals of the obelisks, are the fragments of granite sphinxes and calcareous columns of an early epoch, at least coeval with the founder of these structures; and a short distance beyond them is a path leading over the hills to the tombs of the kings. Another read to these tombs lies by the ravine of the valley, from the vicinity of the temple of Old Koor- neh; and to the E. of the entrance of this valley are several limestone quarries, with the rude huts of the miners, who (to judge from the king's name at the S. end of them) continued to work them after the accession of the 26th dynasty. 11. TOMBS OF THE KrNGas. - BABn, OR BmAN EL MOLOOK, "THE GATE" OR "GATES OF THE KINGS.' The tradit'onal name "Gates of the Kings ' is applied by some to the tombs themselves, by others to the narrow gorge at the inner entrance of the valley. For these, as for other tombs, candles are of course required; some water and provisions may also be taken. I do not propose to give a detailed account of these interesting catacombs, nor pretend to offer to the reader an explanation of the sculptures; but shall merely notice their most remarkable features, and refer to them according to the numbers I painted on them, which I believe still remain. Belzoni's Tomb.-The tomb No. 17, which was discovered by Belzoni, is by far the most remarkable for its sculp- ture and the state of its preservation. But the plan is far from being well regulated, and the deviation from one line of direction greatly injures its general effect; nor does the rapid de- scent by a staircase of 24 ft. in per- pendicular depth, on a horizontal length of 29, convey so appropriate an idea of the entrance to the abode of death as the gradual talus of other of these sepulchres. To this staircase succeeds a passage of 181 ft. by 9, in- cluding the jambs; and passing another door, a second 'staircase descends in horizontal length 25 ft.; beyond which 2 doorways and a passage of 29 ft. bring you to an oblong chamber 12 ft. by 14, where a pit, filled up by Belzoni, once appeared to form the utmost limit of the tomb. Part of its inner wall was composed of blocks of hewn stone, closely cemented together, and covered with a smooth coat of stucco, like the other walls of this excavated cata- comb, on which was painted a con- tinuation of those subjects that still adorn its remaining sides. Independent of the main object of this pit, so admirably calculated to mis- lead, or at least to check the search of the curious and the spoiler, another advantage was thereby gained in the preservation of the interior part of the tomb,which was effectuallyguaranteed from the destructive inroad of the rain- water, whose torrent its depth com- pletely intercepted; a fact which a storm some years ago, by the havoc caused in the inner chambers, sadly demonstrated. The hollow sound of the wall of masonry above mentioned, and a small aperture, betrayed to Belzoni the secret of its hidden chambers; and a palm- tree, supplying the place of the more 351 HE KINGS. THEBES.- TOMBS OF THE KINGS. classic ram, soon forced the inter- mediate barrier, whose breach dis- played the splendour of the succeeding hall, at once astonishing and delight- ing its discoverer, whose labours were so gratefully repaid. But this was not the only part of the tomb that had been closed: the outer door was also blocked up with masonry; and the staircase before it was concealed by accumulated fragments, and by the earth that had fallen from the hill above. And it was the sinking of the ground at this part, from the water that had soaked through into the tomb, that led the peasants to suspect the secret of its position; which was revealed by them to Belzoni. The four pillars of the first hall beyond the pit, which support a roof about 26 ft. square, are decorated, like the whole of the walls, with highly- finished and well-preserved sculptures, which from their vivid colours appear but the work of yesterday; and near the centre of the inner wall a few steps lead to a second hall, of similar dimen- sions, supported by two pillars, but left in an unfinished state, the sculptors not having yct commenced the outline of the figures the draughtsmen had but just completed. These I shall mention presently. It is here that the first deviations from the general line of direction occur; which are still more remarkable in the staircase that de- scends at the southern corner of the first hall. To this last succeed two passages, and a chamber 17 ft. by 14, communi- cating by a door, nearly in the centre of its inner wall, with the grand hall, which is 27 ft. square, and supported by six pillars. On either side of this hall is a small chamber, opposite the angle of the first pillars; and the upper end terminates in a vaulted saloon, 19 ft. by 30, in whose centre stood an ala- baster sarcophagus, the cenotaph of the deceased monarch, upon the immediate summit of an inclined plane, which, with a staircase on either side, de- scends into the heart of the argil- laceous rock for a distance of 150 ft. When Belzoni opened this tomb it ex- tended much farther; but the rock, which from its friable nature could only be excavated by supporting the roof with scaffolding, has since fallen, and curtailed a still greater portion of its original length. This passage, like the enirance of the tomb and the first hall, was closed and concealed by a wall of masonry, which, coming even with the base of the sarcophagus, completely masked the staircase, and covered it with an artificial floor. I do not imagine that the sacred person of an Egyptian king would be exposed to the inviting situation of these sarcophagi, especially when they took so much care to conceal the bodies of inferior subjects. It is true the entrance was closed, but the posi- tion of a monarch's tomb would be known to many besides the priest- hood, and traditionally remembered by others; some of whom, in later times, might not be proof against the tempta- tion of such rich plunder. The priests must at least have foreseen the chance of this; and we know that many of the tombs were plundered in very early times; several were the resting-places of later occupants; some were burnt and reoccupied (probably at the time of the Persian invasion) ; and others were usurped by Greeks. Some of the sepulchres of the kings were open from a very remote period, and seen by Greek and Roman visitors, who mention them in inscriptions written on their walls, as the syringes (OuptyyES or tunnels-a nameby which they are described by Pausanias; and Diodorus, who, on tie authority of the priests, reckons 47, says that 17 re- mained in the time of Ptolemy Lagus. From this we may infer that 17 were then open, and that the remaining 30 were closed in his time. Strabo too supposes their total number to have been about 40. A small chamber and two niches are made in the N.W. wall of this part of the grand hall; and at the upper end a step leads to an unfinished chamber, 17 ft. by 43, supported by a row of four pillars. On the S.W. are other niches, and a room about 25 ft. square, ornamented with two pillars 352 Sect. IV. BELZONI5S TOMB. and a broad bench (hewn, like the rest of the tomb, in the rock) around three of its sides, 4 ft. high, with four shallow recesses on each face, and surmounted by an elegant Egyptian cornice. It is difficult to understand the purport of it, unless its level summit served as a repository for the mummies of the in- ferior persons of the king's household; but it is more probable that these were also deposited in pits. The total horizontal length of this catacomb is 320 ft., without the in- clined descent below the sarcophagus, and its perpendicular depth 90. But, including that part, it measures 470, and in depth about 180 ft., to the spot where it is closed by the fallen rock. I shall now notice the sculptures. Those in the first passage consist of lines of hieroglyphics relating to the king Sethi, or Osirei, "the beloved of Pthah," who was the father of Re- meses II. and the occupant of the tomb. In the staircase which succeeds it are on one side 37, on the other 39 genii of various forms; among which a figure represented with a stream of tears issuing from his eyes is remarkable from having the (Coptic) word rimi, "lamentation," in the hieroglyphics above. In the next passage are the boats of Kneph; and several descending planes, on which are placed the valves of doors, probably referring to the descent to Amenti. The goddess of Truth or Justice stands at the lower extremity. In the small chamber over the pit the king makes offerings to different gods, Osiris being the prin- cipal deity. Athor, Horus, Isis, and Anubis, are also introduced. On the pillars of the first hall the monarch stands in the presence of various divinities, who seem to be re- ceiving him after his death. But one of the most interesting subjects here is a procession of four different people, of red, white, black, and again white complexions, four by four, followed by Re, "the sun." The four red figures are Egyptians, designated under the name r6t, "mankind;" the next, a white race, with blue eyes, long bushy beards, and clad in a short dress, are a northern nation, with whom the Egyp- tians were long at war, and appear to signify the nations of the north; as the negroes (called Nahsi) the south; and the four others, also a white people, with a pointed beard, blue eyes, feathers in their hair, and crosses or other de- vices about their persons, and dressed in long flowing robes, the east. These then are not in the character of pri- soners, but a typification of the four divisions of the world, or the whole human race, and are introduced among the sculptures of these sepulchres in the same abstract sense as the trades of the Egyptians in the tombs of private individuals; the latter being an epi- tome of human life, as far as regarded that people themselves, the former re- ferring to the inhabitants of the whole world. On the end wall of this hall is a fine group, which is remarkable as well for the elegance of its drawing as for the richness and preservation of the colour- ing. The subject is the introduction of the king, by Horus, into the presence of Osiris and Athor. Though not the most striking, the most interesting drawings in this tomb are those of the next hall, which was left unfinished; nor can any one look upon those figures with the eye of a draughtsman, without paying a just tribute to the freedom of their outlines. In preparing the wall to receive the bas-reliefs it was sometimes customary to portion it out into squares; but it was not, as I at first supposed, the method universally adopted for drawing Egyptian figures. We see in this and other places that they were sketched without that prescribed measurement; and it is probable that this was prin- cipally used when a copy was made of an original drawing-a method adopted by us at the present day. Here we find that the position of the figures was first traced with a red colour by the draughtsman; when, having been sub- mitted to the inspection of the master- artist, those parts which he deemed deficient in proportion or correctness of attitude were altered by him in black R. Egypt. 353 THEBES.-TOMIBS OF THE KINGS. ink (as appears to have been the case Horus, Anubis, Isis, Osiris, Nofre- in the figures here designed); and in Atmoo, and Pthah. that state they were left for the chisel The grand hall contains numerous of the sculptor. But on this occasion subjects, among which are a series of the death of the king or some other mummies, each in its own repository, cause prevented their completion; whose folding doors are thrown open; though their unfinished condition, so and it is probable that all the parts of far from exciting our regret, affords a these catacombs refer to different states satisfactory opportunity of appreciating through which the deceased passed, the skill of the Egyptian draughtsmen. and the various mansions of Hades or We here see the bold decided line which Amenti. The representations of the was the aim of all antique drawing; door-valves at their entrance tend to and which we should do well to sub- confirm this opinion; while many of the stitute for the little broken dotted line subjects relate to the life and actions of tolerated,. and even taught, in Eng- the deceased, and many are similar to land; where the merit of the line of those in the "Book of the Dead." Apelles within that of Protogenes In the side chambers are some (though once imitated) would have mysterious ceremonies connected with no value amidst the series of disjointed fire, and various other subjects; and strokes that generally constitute our the transverse vaulted part of the great outlines. In these figures some of the hall, or saloon of the sarcophagus, orna- lincs are a foot or a foot and a quarter mented with a profusion of sculpture, is in length; as from the shoulder to the a termination worthy of the rest of this elbow, or the knee to the instep; and grand sepulchral monument. In the done at a single stroke; while the red chamber on the 1., with the broad bench, lines of the inferior artist, and his are various subjects; some of which, pentimenti, show that, though he occa- especially those appearing to represent sionally failed in the perfect use of his human sacrifices, may refer to the ini- pencil, he was instructed in the same tiation into the higher mysteries, by the bold style of drawing, and in the im- supposed death and regeneration of portance of one long-continuous out- the Neophyte. line. No. 11, called Bruce's, or the Harper's The beautiful groups at the base of Tomb, is, from the nature, though not the next staircase were taken away by from the execution, of the subjects, of M. Champollion; and similar spolia- far greater interest than the last men- tions have been carried on by other tioned. The monarch whose name Europeans; so that this tomb has lost here occurs is Remeses III., but that much of its original beauty; and the of his father and predecessor is traced bad example continues to be followed beneath the ovals of Remeses, who by less enlightened depredators. But appropriated and completed the sub- we may treat the ignorance of the jects on its walls. Egyptian felldhs with indulgence, in- The line of direction in this cata- capable as they are of understanding comb, after the first 130 ft., is inter- the injury they do to the continuity rupted by the vicinity of the adjoining and thread of the subjects they de- tomb, and makes in consequence a face; and it is to those who, knowing slight deviation to the rt. of 13 ft., their value, have defaced what they when it resumes the same direction should have respected, that the odium again for other 275, which give it a of their destruction has been very pro- total length of 405 ft. perly attached. Its plan differs from that of No. 17, The subjects in the succeeding and the rapidity of its descent is con- passages refer mostly to the liturgies siderably less, being perpendicularly or ceremonies performed to the de- only 31 ft. ceased monarch. In the square cham- The most interesting part is unques- ber beyond them the king is seen in tionably the series of small chambers the presence of the deities Athor, in the two first passages, since they 354 Sect. IV. BRUCE'S, OR THE HARPER S TOMtB. throw considerable light on the style of the furniture and arms, and conse- quently on the manners and customs, of the Egyptians. In the first to the 1. (entering) is the kitchen, where the principal groups, though much defaced, may yet be recognised. Some are engaged in slaughtering oxen, and cutting up the joints, which are put into cauldrons on a tripod placed over a wood fire; and in the lower line a man is employed in cutting a leather strap he holds with his feet-a practice still common throughout the East. Another pounds something for the kitchen in a large mortar; another apparently minces the meat; and a pallet, suspended by ropes running in rings fastened to the roof, is raised from the ground, to guard against the intrusion of rats and other depredators. On the opposite side, in the upper line, two men knead a sub- stance with their feet; others cook meat, pastry, and broth, probably of lentils, which fill some baskets beside them; and of the frescoes in the lower line, sufficient remains to show that others are engaged in drawing off, by means of syphons, a liquid from vases before them. On the end wall is the process of making bread; but the dough is kneaded by the hand, and not, as Herodotus and Strabo say, by the feet ; and small black seeds (probably the habbeh sdda still used in Egypt) being sprinkled on the surface of the cakes, they are carried on a wooden pallet to the oven. In the opposite chamber are several boats, with square chequered sails, some having spacious cabins, and others only a seat near the mast. They are richly painted, and loaded with ornaments; and those in the lower lines have the mast and yard lowered over the cabin. The succeeding room, on the rt. hand, contains the various arms and warlike implements of the Egyptians; among which are knives, quilted hel- mets, spears, yatakans, or daggers, quivers, bows, arrows, fadchions, coats of mail, darts, clubs, and standards. On either side of the door is a black cow with the head-dress of Athor, one accompanied by hieroglyphics signi- fying the N., the other by those of the S.; intimating that these are the legends of Upper and Lower Egypt. The blue colour of some of the weapons suffices to prove them to have been of steel, and is one of several strong argu- ments in favour of the conclusion that the early Egyptians were acquainted with the use of iron. The next cham- ber has chairs of the most elegant form, covered with rich drapery, highly orna- mented, and in admirable taste; nor can any one who sees the beauty of Egyptian furniture refuse for one moment his assent to the fact that this people were greatly advanced in the arts of civilisation and the com- forts of domestic life. Sofas, couches, vases of porcelain and pottery, copper utensils, caldrons, rare woods, printed stuffs, leopard-skins, baskets of a very neat and graceful shape, and basins and ewers, whose designs vie with the productions of the cabinet-maker, com- plete the interesting series of these paintings. The next contains agricultural scenes, in which the inundation of the Nile passing through the canals, sowing and reaping wheat, and a grain which from its height and round head appears to be the doora or sorghum, as well as the flowers of the country, are represented. But, however successful the Egyptians may have been in seizing the character of animals, they failed in the art of drawing trees and flowers, and their coloured plants would perplex the most profound botanist equally with the fanciful productions of an Arabic her- barium. That which follows contains different forms of the god Osiris, having various attributes. The second chamber, on the opposite side, merely offers emblems and deities. In the next are birds, and some pro- ductions of Egypt, as geese and quails, eggs, pomegranates, grapes, with other fruits and herbs, among which last is the ghdlga, or Periploca secamone of Linnaeus, still common in the deserts of Egypt, and resembling in form the ivy, which is unknown in the country. The figures in the lower line are of the god Nilus. In the succeeding chamber are rud- U Egypt. 355 THEBES.-TOMBS OF THE KINGS. ders and sacred emblems; and the prin- syringes " or tunnels, that of Memnon cipal figures in the last are two harpers had the greatest claim upon their playing on instruments of not inelegant admiration; though one morose old form before the god Moui, or Hercules. gentleman, of the name of Epiphanius, From these the tomb received its name. declares he saw nothing to admire "but One (if not both) of the minstrels is the stone," meaning the sarcophagus, blind, near which he wrote his laconic and Each of these small apartments has a ill-natured remark : Erupavios w'ropo'a pit, now closed, where it isprobable that ovIEV be eOavmara n n 'ro, XLOov. In some of the officers of the king's house- the second passage, on the left going in, hold were buried; in which case the is a longer inscription of an Athenian, subjects on the walls refer to the station the Daduchus (8abovxos) of the Eleu- they held; as, the chief cook, the super- sinian mysteries, who visited Thebes in intendent of the royal boats, the armour- the reign of Constantine. This was bearer, the stewards of the household, about sixty years before they were and of the royal demesne, the priest of abolished by Theodosius, after having the king, the gardener, hieraphoros, and existed for nearly 1800 years. The minstrel, inscription is also curious, from the The subjects in the first passage, after writer's saying that he visited the the recess to the right, are similar to upL-yyES "a long time after the divine those of No. 17, and are supposed to Plato." relate to the descent to Amenti; but The total length of this tomb is 342 the figure of Truth, and the other ft., with the entrance passage, the per- groups in connection with that part of pendicular depth below the surface 24 them, are placed in a square niche. ft. 6 in,; and in this gradual descent, The character of the four people in the and the regularity of the chambers first hall differs slightly from those of and passages, consists the chief beauty the former tomb; four blacks, clad in of its plan. The general height of the African dresses, being substituted in- first passages is 12 and 13 ft., about stead of the Egyptians, though the two more than that of No. 11, and same name, R6t, is introduced before three more than that of No. 17. them. The sculptures differ from those of Beyond the grand hall of the sarco- the above-mentioned tombs, and the phagus are three successive passages, in figures of the four nations are not in- the last of which are benches intended troduced in the first hall; but many of apparently for the same purpose as those the ceilings present many very inter- ot the lateral chamber in No. 17, to esting astronomical subjects. which they are greatly inferior in point In the last passage before the hall of taste. The large granite sarcophagus of the sarcophagus, the tomb No. 12 was removed hence by Mr. Salt. This crosses over the ceiling, at whose side tomb is much defaced, and the nature an aperture has been forced at a later of the rock was unfavourable for sculp- epoch. The sarcophagus, which is ture. It was one of those open during of granite, has been broken, and lies the reign of the Ptolemies. in a ruined state near its original site. No. 9 was called by the Romans the The vaulted roof of the hall presents tomb of Memnon, probably from its being an astronomical subject, and is richly the handsomest then open; though the ornamented with a profusion of small title of Miamun given to Remeses V., figures. Indeed all the walls of this the occupant of this catacomb, in com- tomb are loaded with very minute de- mon with many other of the Pharaohs, tails, but of small proportions. may have led to this error. It was No. 8 is of king Pthahmen, the son of greatly admired by the Greek and Remeses II. On the left side, entering Roman visitors, who expressed their the passage, is a group of very superior satisfaction by ex votos, and inscriptions sculpture, representing the king and of various lengths, and who generally the god Re. agree that, having "examined these The style of this tomb resembles 856 Sec. IV. TOMBS OF THE KINGS. that of No. 17, and others of that epoch; and in the first hall are figures of the four nations. The descent is very rapid, which, as usual, takes off from that elegance so much admired in No. 9; and the sculptures, executed in intaglio on the stucco, have suf- fered much from the damp occasioned by the torrents, which, when the rain falls, pour into it with great violence from a ravine near its mouth. Its length, exclusive of the open passage of 40 ft. in front, is 167 ft. to the end of the first hall, where it is closed by sand and earth. This was also one of the seventeen mentioned by Dio- dorus. No. 6 is of Remeses VII. The sculptures differ widely from those of the preceding tombs. In the third passage they refer to the generative principle. The features of the king are peculiar, and from the form of the nose, so very unlike that of the usual Egyptian face, there is no doubt that their sculptures actually offer portraits. On the inner wall of the last chamber, or hall of the sarcophagus, is a figure of the child Harpocrates, seated in a winged globe; and from being be- yond the sarcophagus, which was the abode of death, it appears to refer to the well-known idea that dissolution was followed by reproduction into life. The total length of this tomb is 243 ft., including the outer entrance of 25. It was open during the time of the Ptolemies. No. 7, which is opposite this, is of Remeses II., but is nearly filled up with the sand washed into it by the rains. About 180 feet of it were cleared, I believe, by Mr. Salt. This also contains Greek inscriptions. No. 2 is a small but elegant tomb, 218 ft. long, including the hypaethral passage of 47. The sarcophagus re- mains in its original situation, though broken at the side, and is 11 ft. 6 in. by 7, and upwards of 9 ft. in height. The bodies found in the recesses be- hind this hall seem to favour the con- jecture that they were intended, like those beford mentioned, in Nos. 11 and 17, as receptacles for the dead. The inscriptions prove it to have been one of the seventeen open in the time of the Ptolemies. The name of the king is Remeses IV. In No. 1 are also Greek inscriptions of the time of the Ptolemies. It is the catacomb of Remeses IX., but very inferior in style and dimensions to the preceding, being only 132 in length, including the exterior uncovered en- trance. A small sarcophagus is hewn in the limestone rock, in the centre of the hall, and covered with a lid of red granite. No. 3 is unsculptured, except at the entrance, which is much defaced. Its plan is very different from the other tombs; the total length is scarcely 123 ft., but its area is greater than that of No. 1. It was one of those open at an early period. The name is of Remeses III. No. 4 is an unfinished tomb of Re- meses VIII. At the end is a large pit 32.ft. deep, 142 in length, and 112 in breadth. It was also open during the reigns of the Ptolemies. Its total length is 307 ft. Neither of these two are worthy of a visit. In No. 13 a few faint traces of sculpture alone remain. On the projecting rocks, a few paces to the E. of it, are some hieratic cha- racters; and between this and No. 14 it is probable there may be an- other tomb, as also between Nos. 14 and 15. No. 14 is of king Pthah-se-pthah, or Pthahmen-se-pthah, who seems to have reigned in right of his wife, the queen Taosiri; as she occurs some- times alone, making offerings to the gods, and sometimes in company with her husband. This catacomb was afterwards appropriated by king Sethi, or Osirei II., and again by his suc- cessor, whose name is met with throughout on the stucco which covers part of the former sculptures, and in intaglio on the granite sarcophagus in the grand hall. In the passages be- yond the staircase the subjects relate to the liturgies of the deceased mo- narch, and in the side chamber to the 1. is a bier attended by Anubs, with the vases of the four genii beneath it. In the first grand vaulted hall, below U. Egypt. 357 THEBES.--TOMBS OF THE KINGS. the cornice which runs round the lower part, various objects of Egyp- tian furniture are represented, as metal mirrors, boxes and chairs of very ele- gant shape, vases, fans, arms, neck- laces, and numerous insignia. In the succeeding passages the subjects re- semble many of those in the un- finished hall of No. 17. The sculp- tures are in intaglio; but whenever the naie of the king appears it is merely painted on the stucco; and those in the second vaulted hall are partly in intaglio and partly in out- line, but of a good style. The sarco- phagus has been broken, and the lid, on which is the figure of the king in relief, has the form of a royal name or oval. This tomb was open in the time of the Ptolemies. Its total length is 363 ft., without the hypeathral en- trance, but it is unfinished; and be- hind the first hall another large cham- ber with pillars was intended to have been added. No. 15 is of Sethi, or Osirei II. Thile figures at the entrance are in relief, and of very good style. Be- yond this passage it is unfinished. Part of the broken sarcophagus lies on the other side of the hall. It bears the name of this monarch in intaglio ; and his figure on the lid, a fine speci- men of bold relief in granite, is raised 9 in. above the surface. This catacomb was open at an early epoch. Its total length is 236 ft. No. 12 is unsculptured. It reaches only to a distance of 172 ft., but has several side chambers at the upper end. The last room crosses over No. 9. It was probably known to the Greeks and Romans. No. 10, adjoining the Harper's tomb, presents the name of Amun- meses, whose exact era, as well as that of the two queens who are intro- duced in the inner part of this cata- comb, is uncertain. It is, however, probable that he was a king of the 20th dynasty. This was also open at an early period. It is now closed after the distance of about 250 ft. No. 16 is of Remeses, or Remesso I., the father of Sethi I., and grand- father of Remeses II., being the oldest tomb hitherto discovered in this valley, and is among the num- ber of those opened by Belzoni. The sarcophagus within it bears the same name. No. 18 is of Remeses X., but is almost entirely filled up. It was pro- bably one of those open in the time of the Ptolemies. No. 5 is nearly closed. Its plan differs very widely from those of the other tombs. Neither of these is de- serving of a visit. No. 19 is a small catacomb, which presents the name of a prince Re- meses, or Remesso-Mandooho . whose features are very peculiar. He was a royal scribe and commander of the troops, and appears to have been heir-apparent at the time of his death. It is only open to the distance of about 65 ft. No. 20 is a long passage, of which only 170 ft. have been explored, de- scending to a depth of 76 ft. per- pendicular. It was supposed to lead through the rocks to the plain of Koorneh; and to ascertain this fact, Mr. Burton cleared it to the above- mentioned distance, but he was obliged to abandon his researches owing to the danger of the mephitic air, which extinguished the lights. It does not, however, appear, from the direction it takes, to pass through the mountain; nor is the spot one that they would have chosen for such a communication. No. 21 is a small tomb without sculpture, and unworthy of a visit. Fragments of alabaster vases are met with in one of the chambers. It appears that those open in the time of the Ptolemies were Nos. 1, 2, 3, 4, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10, 11, 12, 14, 15, and 18, fourteen out of the seventeen men- tioned by Diodorus; so that the three others have been again closed since that epoch, unless some of the un- sculptured ones may be admitted to complete the number, which, from their being unworthy of a visit, were also unworthy of an inscript:on to record the fact of their existence. As that writer says that of the forty-seven 358 Sect. IV. U.:Egypt. TOMBS OF TH only seventeen were open in the time of the Ptolemies, it appears that more are now known than at that period. 12. THE WESTERN VALLEY. There are four other tombs in the western valley, behind that containing the above-mentioned sepulchres. If the traveller is pressed for time he need not visit them; but they are curious to those who are interested in the foreign kings of the family of Atinre-Bakhan. One is of consider- able size, but the line of direction varies in three different parts, the first extending to a distance of 145 ft., the second 119, and the third 88, being a total of 352 ft. in length, with several lateral chambers. The name is of Amunoph III., of the vocal statue; and, consequently, it is the oldest catacomb hitherto discovered in these valleys. Towards the end of the first line of direction is a well now nearly closed, intended to prevent the ingress of the rain-water and of the too curious visitor; and this deviation may per- haps indicate the vicinity of another tomb behind it. It is singular that no tombs of the first kings of the 18th dynasty have been yet met with in either of these valleys; the kings of the 19th dynasty seem to have been the first to select the eastern valley as their place of sepulture; and those of the 18th were probably buried in the Koorna ne- cropolis. There is one remarkable fact con- nected with the tombs in the western valley, that they are of foreign kings who ruled Egypt; and there is reason to believe that Amunoph III. was of the same family. That in features he Was unlike an Egyptian is evident ; and his resemblance to the "Stranger kings," whose monuments are found at Tel el Amarna and some other places, is very evident. The discovery of the tombs in the western valley would therefore be of great interest; and it would perhaps give some useful information respecting the history of E W. VALLEY. 359 Egypt, and this most curious point in the succession of the Pharaohs. W 2 is 205 ft. in length, including the entrance, and contains a broken sarcophagus, and some bad paintings of peculiarly short and graceless pro- portions. Of the era of the king whose name here occurs, I have only been able to ascertain that he was prior to Remeses II., and probably by several reigns. He appears to be called Eesa, or, as some suppose, Skhai. (See his name in p. 378, Nos. 14, 15.) The others are not worthy of notice. 13. ToMBs OF PRIESTS AND PRIVATE INDIVIDUALS. If I could fix on any part of this vast abode of death where the most ancient tombs are exclusively met with, I should not hesitate in commencing my notice of them in the order of their relative antiquity; but as some of a remote epoch are continually inter- mixed with those of more recent date it is impossible to fix with precision the exact extent of the earliest ceme- teries. It is likewise difficult to de- termine the particular portions set apart for the sepulture of the various classes of Egyptians, since those of the same class are found in more than one part of its extensive circuit. Some general notions may, however, be formed on this head, by looking over my ' Survey of Thebes; others must be given in the following pages, where I shall also notice those kings whose names, appearing in the sculp- tures, fix, in some degree, the epoch at which several portions of this burial- ground were consecrated to the recep- tion of the dead. But in many of them all clue to the determination of this fact is entirely lost, by the decay of the sculptures, or the fall of the stucco on which they were painted; and what increases our regret on this point is, that these fallen annals, fromin their relating to the most ancient (poch, were by far the most interesting. Among the last it is highly probable that those situated N. of Old Koorneh 360 THEBES.-PRIVATE TOMBS. Sect. IV. are deserving of the first rank, as well dynasty : one or two in the Assaseef from the total disappearance of the have his name, and many others in the stucco which once lined their walls, as valley of Dayr el Mededneh are of the from the state of the rock itself, their same date. These last, being the situation opposite Karnak (the main westernmost, were considered more and original part of Diospolis , and peculiarly under the protection of their vicinity to the river. I must Athor, the "president of the West; " also observe that many tombs are who is frequently there repres nted occasionally filled up or destroyed either receiving the Sun into her arms, by the peasants; so that some that I coming forth under the form of a cow am going to describe may no longer from behind the " Western Mountain," be visible, or standing between the figures of the It is singular that no remains of man and woman of the tomb. She very ancient temples are found at bears her emblems, the long horns and Thebes, except the columns of Osir- feathers, which compose her usual tasen I. at Karnak, and fragments of head-dress. the time of Amun->h-he I. on the The friable nature of the rock in Koorneh side; and with the exception part of this vall y urged the necessity of those belonging to two Enentefs of of lining the roofs of some 'of these the 9th dynasty, no royal tombs at grottoes with vaults of brick, which, Thebes date before that of Amunoph while they point out the dryness of a III. in the western valley (unless the climate that permits crude brick to excavated monument at the end of stand uninjured through a period of the Assaseef be the sepulchre of 3350 years, establish the antiquity of Thothmes I.). No private tombs at the invention of the arch. Thebes have a king's name before the These tombs are generally small; reign of Amunoph I. : yet kings ruled sometimes the sculptures are cut in there of the 11th and 12th dynasties; the rock itself, sometimes traced on and a Theban king, Mantoftep I., of the mortar that covers its irregular sur- the 11th dynasty, is represented, near face, and some have only paintings on Silsilis, receiving the homage of an the stuccoed crude brick walls which Enentef as of an inferior king; and case the interior. The facility of the importance of this Mantoftep is working this rock may have induced shown by his being the only king them to select it for the tombs of those mentioned in the Theban list at the who objected to more expensive exca- Memnonium between Menes and the vations; and it is reasonable to sup- 18th dynasty. But though many kings pose that, being in the habit of con- ruled at Thebes, and many individuals structing their houses with brick who lived under them were buried vaults, they would employ a similar there, no tombs have been found of covering to the chambers of the dead; that age; and the oldest appear to be especially when they required the pro- in the hill called the Drab Aboo Negga, tection of a roof against the crumbling behind the temple of Old Koorneh. It of the soft argillaceous stratum in was about half-way up this I ill that which they have been excavated, and the coffins of the two Enentefs of the which forms the base of the limestone 9th dynasty were discovered, which mountains of Thebes. are now in the Louvre. From the In the succeeding reigns of the place where they were found the TIhothmes and Amunop:s, the hill of Colossi of the plain bears S.W., Karnak Abd el Koorneh, Koornet Murrace, S.E. by E.; and it was not very far and part of Drah Aboo Negga, were from this hill, at the mouth of the occupied by the priestly order, who, Assasedf Valley, that the building with their wives and families, were once stood which bore the name of interred in the pits of those elegant Amun-1'-he I. Other tombs were catacombs, whose varied and interest- made in the same hill in the reign of ing sculptures delight the antiquary, Am noph I., second king of the 18th and excite his surprise at their pre- TOMBS OF THE ASSASEEF. servation after a lapse of more than 3000 years. Here manners and cus- toms, historical events and religious ceremonies, seem to carry us back to the society of those to whom they refer, and we are enabled to study the amusements and occupations of the ancient Egyptians, and almost fancy ourselves spectators of the scenes re- presented in the sculptures. In the time of Sethi I. and his son other tombs were opened beneath these hills, in the vicinity of the pa- lace of the second Remeses, and on the W. of the entrance to the Assaseef. And in the early part of the latter reign, some of those belonging to the priestly order, amidst the crude-brick pyramids at the western extremity of Drah Aboo Negga, increased the number of the larger sepulchres. Others bear the name of Pthahmen, his son and successor; in one of which, having an outer area, enclosed by a stone wall, colossal figures of the "lord and lady" of the tomb are majes- tically seated in the first chamber. But among the most interesting ob- jects on this part of the hill are the crude-brick pyramids themselves, as well from the state of their preserva- tion, as from the existence of the arshes which form the roofs of their central chambers; nor, judging from the style of the frescoes, can we venture to assign to them a date posterior to the third Remeses, or about B.c. 1200. From the above statements alone it is evident that these districts cannot be classed under particular reigns; but with regard to the exclusive ap- propriation of certain parts of the Theban cemetery to peculiar classes, it may be observed that in those places where the compact nature of the rock was best suited for large ex- cavations the tombs of the high- priests are invariably met with, while those of persons of inferior rank are to be looked for, either in the plain be- neath, or in the less solid parts of the adjacent hills. Indeed the principal tombs are of high functionaries of the priestly order. Tombs of the Assaseef.-The most remarkable which date after this [Egypt.] epoch are those in the Assaseef, and behind the palace of Remeses II., executed during the period of the 26th dynasty, in the 7th century before our era. Their plans, though very different from those of the other Theban tombs, bear a general resem- blance to each other; and they are not less remarkable for their extent than for the profusion and detail of their ornamental sculpture. The smallest, which are those be- hind the palace of Riemeses, com- mence with an outer court, decorated by a peristyle of pillars. To this suc- ceeds an arched entrance to the tomb itself, which consists of a long hall, supported by a double row of four pillars, and another of smaller dimen- sions beyond it, with four pillars in the centre. The largest of them, and indeed of all the sepulchres of Thebes, are those in the Assaseef, one of which (R. in the Survey) far exceeds in ex- tent any one of the tombs of the kings. Its outer court or area is 103 ft. by 76, with a flight of steps descending to its centre from the entrance, which lies between two massive crude-brick walls, once supporting an arched gateway. The inner door, cut like the rest of the tomb in the limestone rock, leads to a second court, 53 ft. by 67, with a peristyle of pillars on either side, behind which are two closed cor- ridors. That on the W. contains a pit and one small square room, and the opposite one has a similar cham- ber, with leads to a narrow passage, once closed in two places by masonry, and evidently used for a sepulchral purpose. Continuing through the second area, you arrive at a porch whose arched summit, hollowed out of the rock, has the light form of a small segment of a circle; and from the surface of the inner wall project the cornice and mouldings of an elegant doorway. This opens on the first hall, 53 ft. by 37, once supported by a double line of 4 pillars, dividing the nave (if I may so call it) from the aisles, with half pillars as usual attached to the end walls. Another ornamented door- way leads to the second hall, 32 ft. R U. Egypt. 361 THEBES.-PRIVATE TOMBS. square, with 2 pillars in each row, disposed as in the former. Passing through another door, you arrive at a small chamber, 21 ft. by 12, at whose end wall is a niche, formed of a series of jambs, receding successively to its centre. Here terminates the first line of direction. A square room lies on the left (entering), and on the right another succession of passages, or narrow apartments, leads to 2 flights of steps, immediately before which is another door on the right. Beyond these is another passage, and a room containing a pit 45 ft. deep, which opens at about one-third of its depth on a lateral chamber. A third line of direction, at right angles with the former, turns to the right, and terminates in a room, at whose upper end is a squared pedestal. Returning through this range of passages, and re-ascending the 2 stair- cases, the door above alluded to pre- sents itself on the 1. hand. You shortly arrive at a pit (opening on another set of rooms, beneath the level of the upper ground plan), and, after passing it, a large square, sur- rounded by long passages, arrests the attention of the curious visitor. At each angle is the figure of one of the 8 following goddesses - Neith, Sate, Isis, Nephthys, Netpe, Justice, Selk, and Athor-who, standing with outspread arms, preside over and pro- tect the sacred enclosure, to which they front and are attached. Eleven niches, in six of which are small figures of different deities, oc- cur at intervals on the side walls, and the summit is crowned by a frieze of hieroglyphics. Three cham- bers lie behind this square, and the passage which goes round it descends on that side, and rejoins, by an ascending talus on the next, the level of the front. A short distance beyond is the end of this part of the tomb; but the above-mentioned pit communicates with a subterranean passage opening on a vaulted cham- ber, from whose upper extremity another pit leads, downwards, to a second, and, ultimately, through the ceiling of the last, upwards, to a third apartment coming immediately below the centre of the square above noticed. It has one central niche, and seven on either side, the whole loaded with hieroglyphical sculptures, which cover the walls in every part of this exten- sive tomb. But to give an idea of its length, and consequently of the profusion of its ornamental details, I shall briefly state the total extent of each series of the passages, both in the upper and under part of the excavation. From the entrance of the outer area to the first deviation from the ori- ginal right line is 320 ft. The total of the next range of passages to the chamber of the great pit is 177 ft. The third passage, at right angles to this last, is 60 ft.; that passing over the second pit is 125 ft.; and adding to these three of the sides of the iso- lated square, the total is 862 ft., in- dependent of the lateral chambers. The area of the actual excavation is 22,217 square feet, and with the chambers of the pits 23,809; though, from the nature of its plan, the ground it occupies is nearly one acre and a quarter; an immoderate space for the sepulchre of one individual, even allowing that the members of his family shared a portion of its extent. He was a distinguished functionary of the priestly order, and possessed apparently unusual affluence and con- sequence, since the granite gateway, added by his order to the small tem- ple of Medednet Hiboo, bears the name of Petamunap alone, amidst buildings on which kings were proud to inscribe their own. In one of the side chambers of this tomb is the royal name, which may possibly be of king Horus of the 18th dynasty. If so, this wealthy priest might seem to have lived in the reign of that Pha- raoh; but the style of the sculptures would rather confine his era to the later period of the 26th dynasty. The wealth of private individuals who lived under this dynasty, and immediately before the Persian inva- sion, was very great; nor can any one, on visiting these tombs, doubt a fact corroborated by the testimony 362 Sect. IV. TOMBS 01F KOORNET MURRAEE. of Herodotus and other authors, who state that Egypt was most flourishing about the reign of Amasis. But though the labour and expense incurred in finishing them far exceed those of any other epoch, the execu- tion of the sculptures, charged with ornament and fretted with the most minute details, is far inferior to that in vogue during the reign of the 18th dynasty, when freedom of drawing was united with simplicity of effect. And the style of the subjects in the -catacombs of this last-mentioned era excites our admiration, no less than the skill of the artists who designed them; while few of those of the 26th dynasty can be regarded with a simi- lar satisfaction, at least by the eye of an Egyptian antiquary. One, how- ever, of these tombs, bearing the name of an individual who lived under the 1st Psammetichus, deserves to be excepted, as the subjects there represented tend to throw consider- able light on the manners and cus- toms, the trades and employments, of the Egyptians; nor can I omit the mention of some elegant and highly- finished sculptures in the area of the tomb immediately behind that of Pe- tamunap, which I fortunately saved from being broken up for lime by the Turkish miners. TomNs of Koornet Murraee.-In no- ticing the most interesting of the other catacombs of Thebes, I shall commence with those of Koornet Mur- raee; where a few have escaped the ravages of time, and the still more baneful injuries of human hands. Finding scarcely any already open which presented sculpture worthy of a visit, or which threw any light on the era of their execution, I had several uncovered (during my visit in 1827), in hopes of satisfying my curiosity, which, except in one instance, was but badly repaid. Ithere found the name of king Amun-To6nh, one of the " Stranger Kings," the sun-worshippers, who usurped the throne after the reign of Amunoph III. Thlough his nomen and prenomen had, as usual, been carefully erased, yet, from some of the subordinate parts of the various sub- jects which cover its walls, where the erasure had been partially or entirely overlooked, I was enabled to ascer- tain to whom the ovals belonged, and consequently to fix the date of this interesting catacomb. The king is there seated on his throne, within a richly ornamented canopy, attended by a fan-bearer, who also holds his sceptre. A procession advances in four lines into his pre- sence. The lower division consists of Egyptians of the sacerdotal and mili- tary classes, some ladies of conse- quence, and young people bringing bouquets and boughs of trees. They have just entered the gates of the royal court, and are preceded by a scribe, and others of the priestly order, who do obeisance before the deputy of his majesty, as he stands to receive them. This officer appears to have been the person of the tomb, and it is remarkable that he is styled "Royal Son," and "Prince of Cush," or Ethi- opia. In the second line black "chiefs of Cush" bring presents of gold rings, copper, skins, fans, or umbrellas of feather-work, and an ox, bearing on its horns an artificial garden and a lake of fish. Having placed their offerings, they prostrate themselves before the Egyptian monarch. A continuation of these presents follows in the third line, where, besides rings of gold, and bags of precious stones or gold-dust, are the camelopard, panthers' skins, and long-horned cat- tle,* whose heads and ' horns are strangely ornamented with the heads and hands of negroes. In the upper line, the queen of the same people arrives in a chariot drawn by oxen, and overshadowed by an umbrella, accompanied by her attend- ants, some of whom bear presents of gold. She alights, preceded and fol- lowed by the principal persons of her suite, and advances to the presence of the king; but whether this refers to any marriage that was contracted between the Egyptian monarch and a * Dr. Livingstone (p. 192) says the horns are artificially bent in S. Africa; but there is no reason to think so here; and long-horned cattle have naturally horns of varied shapes. n2 363 U.' Egypt. THEBES.-PRIVATE TOMBS. princess of Ethiopia, or merely to the annual tribute paid by that people, I have not been able to decide. Among the different presents are a chariot, shields covered with buills' hides bound with metal borders and studded with pins, chairs, couches, headstools, and other objects. The dresses of the negroes differ in the upper line from those below, the latter having partly the costume of the Egyptians, with the plaited hair of their national head-dress; but those who follow the car of the princess are clad in skins, whose projecting tail, while it heightens the caricature the artist doubtless in- tended to indulge in, proves them to be persons of an inferior station, who were probably brought as slaves to the Egyptian monarch. Behind these are women of the same nation, bear- ing their children in a kind of basket suspended to their back. Ethiopian and Negro slaves were common in Egypt from a very remote time, long before the era of Amunoph III.; and it is highly probable that a tribute, as well of slaves as of gold, ivory, ebony, wild animals, skins, and other productions of the South, was continually exacted from the land of Cush. Indeed it seems that the cap- tives of their northern wars were also doomed to a similar fate, and that, like the servi or servati of the Romans, and the prisoners of some nations of modern as well as ancient times, they purchased their lives by the sacrifice of freedom. Many other interesting subjects cover the walls of this tomb, which throw much light on the customs of the Egyptians; and I hear it has not yet been destroyed. In another catacomb, unfortunately much ruined, is a spirited chase, in which various animals of the desert are admirably designed. The fox, hare, gazelle, ibex, eriel (Antelope oryx), ostrich, and wild ox fly before the hounds; and the porcupine and hyaena retire to the higher part of the mountains. The female hyaena alone remains, and rises to defend her young; but most of the dogs are re- presented in pursuit of the gazelles, or in the act of seizing those they have overtaken in the plain. The chasseur follows, and discharges his arrows among them as they fly. These arrows were very light, being made of reed, feathered, and tipped with stone. They have been found in the tombs, together with those having metal points; both being used, as the sculp- tures show, at the same periods; the latter for war, the former for the chace. In observing the accuracy with which the general forms and charac- ters of their animals are drawn, one cannot but feel surprised that the Egyptians should have had so imper- fect a knowledge of the art of repre- senting the trees and flowers of their country, which, with the exception of the lotus, palm, and dom, can scarcely ever be identified; unless the fruit, as in the pomegranate and sycamore, is present to assist us. Tombs of Shekh Abd el Koorneh.- The most numerous and interesting grottoes are those in the hill of Shekh Abd el Koorneh, behind the Memno- nium; but as a detailed account of their sculpture would extend beyond the proposed limits of my description of Thebes, I can only notice briefly the principal subjects of those most worthy of a visit. The most interest- ing are Nos. 1, 2, 5, 11, 14, 16, 17, 29, 31, 33, 34, 35, 37, of my Survey; and in the plain below k and q. No. 1, which bears the name of Sethi I., father of Remeses II., pre- sents some well-executed sculptures on the right and left walls. The king is seated under a rich canopy, attended by the goddess of Justice; before him is the individual of the tomb, a dis- tinguished functionary of the priestly order, with the title of high-priest, followed by others of the same class, who, introduced by an officer of the royal household, advance to "offer their praises" to the monarch. In No. 2 (now closed) are figures of women dancing or playing on the harp, the double pipe, and lyre, ac- companied by choristers. Various offerings are presented to the deceased; and his relations, with the upper part of the body exposed above the waist, 364 Sect IV. TOMBS OF SHEKH ABD EL KOORNEH. bewail his death, and that of his consort, whose mummies they bathe with their tears. In another com- partment, a priest pours a liquid into cups, placed on a lofty stand, and another, by means of three siphons, draws off their contents into a larger 'vase below. Siphons again occur in the tomb of Remeses III., in the valley of the kings, so that these two instances prove their invention at all events as early as 1320 B.c. They are first men- tioned by the elder Hero, of Alex- andria, who flourished under Ptolemy Euergetes II. No. 5 bears the name of Remeses VII.; but the stucco on which this and the present subjects are drawn has been placed over sculptures of an earlier ,period; the tomb, which was fre- quently the case, having been sold to another person by the priests; who, when a family became extinct, and no one remained to pay the expenses of the liturgies, and other claims constantly kept up by their artifices, indemnified themselves by the appro- priation of the tomb, and resold it to another occupant. This was also the case with the sarcophagi, and even their wooden coffins; where the name of its earlier inmate is often found obliterated, and that of its new possessor substituted in its stead. In most of the reoccupied tombs the sculptures were suffered to remain unaltered, with the exception of those parts that immediately referred to its original tenant; and where a fresh name has never been introduced, it would appear that the second sale had either not yet taken place, or that it had been purchased by one whose family was unlikely to continue the regular payment for the offices per- formed to their deceased relative. The sculptures do not, I think, refer exclusively to the life and actions of the individual of the tomb, except to a certain extent, or in those compart- ments which peculiarly relate to him- such as the ovals of the king in whose reign he lived- the hieroglyphics stating his name and office, his conduct and occupations during his lifetime, with some few other subjects. And the fact of these being omitted in some, and their site left blank, while the trades, the agricultural scenes, and other of the general employments of the Egyptians, equally suited to all, are already introduced, strongly con- firms this opinion. It was in this state that the purchaser, during his lifetime, or his friends after his decease, saw the tombs offered for sale by the priests, who, keeping a sufficient number always prepared, afforded a choice of different qualities, suited to the means and taste of every purchaser. The numerous subjects, as, for in- stance, glass - blowers, saddlers, cur- riers, carpenters, cabinet-makers, boat- builders, chariot - makers, sculptors, musicians, fowlers, fishermen, hus- bandmen engaged in agricultural oc- cupations, &c., could not of course refer to one person, the occupant of the catacomb, who, even to allow the utmost extent of his office, could not be superintendent of all those different branches of Egyptian art and employ- ment. Nor could the figure of the king, who sometimes receives presents borne by Ethiopians and blacks, at others by men of a white nation, or a deputation of Egyptians, relate apy farther to the person of the tomb than as showing the era in which he lived. This, as well as the above- mentioned subjects, must necessarily allude to the manners and customs of the Egyptians as a people, anal in short be an epitome of human life; an idea perfectly in harmony with their constant introduction into all the large tombs, at least of the earliest times, and of the 18th and 19th dynasties, and at once accounting for the name of the individual, and the scenes imme- diately relating to him, being alone altered when re-occupied by another person. In No. 11 is an interesting agricul- tural scene, containing the different operations of reaping, carrying, glean- ing, trituration by oxen, winnowing, and housing. No. 14 is much ruined, but remark- able as being the only one in which a drove of pigs is introduced. They are followed by a man holding a knotted U. Egypt. 365 THEBES.-A VERY INTERESTING TOMB. whip in his hand, and would appear, from the wild plants before them, to be a confirmation of Herodotus's ac- count of their employment to tread-in the grain after the inundation; which singular use of an animal so little inclined by its habits to promote agri- cultural objects has been explained by supposing they were introduced beforehand, to clear the ground of the roots and fibres of the weeds which the water of the Nile had nourished on the irrigated soil. They are here brought, with the other animals of the farmyard, to be registered by the scribes; who, as usual, note down the number of the cattle and possessions of the deceased; and they are divided into three distinct lines, composed of sows with young, pigs, and boars. The figures of the animals in this catacomb are very characteristic. No. 16 is a very interesting tomb, as well in point of chronology as in the execution of its paintings. Here the names of four kings, from the third Thothmes to Amunoph III. inclusive, satisfactorily confirm the order of their succession as given in the Abydus tablet and the lists of Thebes. In the inner chamber, the inmate of the tomb, a " royal scribe," or basilico- grammat, undergoes his final judg- ment, previous to admission into the presence of Osiris. Then follows a long procession, arranged in four lines, representing the lamentations of the women, and the approach of the coffin, containing the body of the de- ceased, drawn on a sledge by four oxen. In the second line men advance with different insignia belonging to the king Amunoph; in the third, with various offerings, a chariot, chairs, and other objects; and in the last line a priest, followed by the chief mourners, officiates before the boats, in which are seated the basilico-grammat and his sister. "The rudders, according to Hero- dotus, "are passed through the keel: " or rather attached to the top of the sternpost, or to the taffirail, in their larger boats of burthen, while those of smaller size have one on either side. They consist, like the other, of a species of large paddle, with a rope fastened to the upper end, by which their sway on the centre of motion is regulated to and fro. One square sail, lowered at pleasure over the cabin, with a yard at the top and bottom, is suspended at its centre to the summit of a short mast, which stands in the middle, and is braced by stays fastened to the fore and after part of the boat. On the opposite wall is a fowling and fishing scene; and the dried fish suspended in the boat remind us of the observations of Herodotus and Diodorus, who mention them as con- stituting a very considerable article of food among this people; for, with the exception of the priesthood, they were at all times permitted to eat those which were not comprised among the sacred animals of the country. Here is also the performance of the liturgies to the mummies of the deceased. Nor do the paintings of the outer chamber less merit our attention. Among the most interesting is a party entertained at the house of the royal scribe, who, seated with his mother, caresses on his knee the youthful daughter of his sovereign, to whom he had probably been tutor. Women dance to the sound of the Egyptian guitar in their presence, or place before them vases of flowers and precious ointment; and the guests, seated on handsome chairs, are attended by servants, who offer them wine in "golden goblets," each having previously been welcomed by the usual ceremony of having his head anointed with sweet-scented ointment. This was a common custom; and in another of these tombs a servant is represented bringing the ointment in a vase, and putting it on the heads of the guests, as well as of the master and mistress of the house. A lotus- flower was also presented to them on their arrival. In the lower part of the picture, a minstrel, seated cross-legged, according to the custom of the East, plays on a harp of seven strings, accompanied by a guitar, and the chorus of a vocal performer, the words of whose song appear to be contained in eight lines of hieroglyphics, which relate to 866 Sect. IV. PRIVATE TOMIBS. Amun, and to the person of the tomb, beginning, "Incense, drink-offerings, and sacrifices of oxen," and conclud- ing with an address to the basilico- grammat. Beyond these an ox is slaughtered, and two men, having cut off the head, remove the skin from the leg and body. Servants carry away the joints as they are separated, the head and fore-leg with the shoulder being the first, the other legs and the parts of the body following in proper succession. A mendicant receives a head from the charity of one of the servants, who also offers him a bottle of water. This gift of the head shows how great a mistake Herodotus has made on the subject, when he says, "no Egyptian will taste the head of any species of animal." There were no Greeks in Egypt at the time this was painted; and the colour of the man (for the Egyptians were careful in distinguishing that of foreigners) is the same as usually given to the inhabitants of the valley of the Nile. Indeed the head is always met with, oven in an Egyptian kitchen. On the opposite wall are some buf- foons who dance to the sound of a drum, and other subjects. In No. 17 is a very rich assortment of vases, necklaces, and other ornamental objects, on the innermost corner to the rt. (entering); and some scribes, on the opposite wall, take account of the cattle and possessions of the deceased. A forced passage leads to the adjoining tomb, where, at one end of the front chamber, are several in- teresting subjects, as chariot-makers, sculptors, cabinet-makers, and various trades; and at the other, two pyra- midal towers, with the tapering staffs to which streamers were usually at- tached, and with two sitting statues in front. On the opposite side a guest arrives in his chariot at the house of his friend, attended by six running-foot- men, who carry his sandals, tablet, and stool. " He is very late," and those who have already come to the entertainment are seated in the room, listening to a band of music, composed of the harp, guitar, double-pipe, lyre, and tambourine, accompanied by female choristers. Near 21 and 22 are rude statues, cut in the rock, probably very ancient. Behind the Christian ruins, close to No. 23, are the remains of a curious Greek inscription, being the copy of a letter from the celebrated "Athanasius, Archbishop of Alexandria, to the ortho, dox" monks at Thebes. This, which is among the inscriptions I sent to the late M. Letronne, will be published in the continuation of his large and valu- able collection of the Greek and Latin inscriptions of Egypt. In No. 29 are some very richly- coloured vases of not inelegant form. No. 31 presents' some curious sub- jects, among which are offerings of gold rings, eggs, apes, leopards, ivory, ebony, skins, and a camelopard, with several other interesting frescoes, un- fortunately much destroyed. Over the eggs is the word soouhi, in the hieroglyphics, signifying "eggs." The names of the Pharaohs here are Thothmes I. and III. In the inner room is a chase, and the chariot of the chasseur, partially preserved. In No. 33 the chief object worthy of notice is the figure of a queen, wife of Thothmes III. and mother of Amunoph II., holding her young son in her lap, who tramples beneath his feet nine captives of nations he after- wards subdued. Before the canopy, under which they are seated, are a fan-bearer, some female attendants, and a minstrel, who recites to the sound of a guitar the praises of the young king. On the corresponding wall is a collee- tion of furniture and ornamental objects, with the figures of Amunoph II., his mother, and Thothmes I. On the opposite wall, an offering of ducks and other subjects are deserving of notice. No. 34 has the name of the same Amunoph and of Thothmes I., his immediate predecessor. It contains a curious design of a garden and vine- yard, with other subjects. The next tomb to this, on the south, though much ruined, offers some excellent drawing, particularly in some dancing . Egypt. 367 THEBES.-PRIVATE TOMBS. figures to the left (entering), whose graceful attitudes remind us rather of the Greek than the Egyptian school; and indeed, were we not assured by the name of Amunoph II. of the remote period at which they were executed, we might suppose them the production of a Greek pencil. (See woodcut 236, Anc. Eg.) On the right-hand wall are some very elegant vases, of what has been called the Greek style, but common in the oldest tombs in Thebes. They are ornamented as usual with ara- besques and other devices. Indeed all these forms of vases, the so-called Tuscan border, and many of the painted ornaments which exist on Greek remains, are found on Egyptian monuments of the earliest epoch, long before the Exodus of the Israelites; plainly removing all doubts as to their original invention. Above these are curriers, chariot-makers, and other artisans. Others are employed in weighing gold and silver rings, the property of the deceased. The Egyptian weights were an en- tire calf, the head of an ox (the half weight), and small oval balls (the quarter weights); and they had a very ingenious mode of preventing the scale from sinking, when the object they weighed was taken out, by means of a ring upon the beam. The semicircular knife used for cutting leather is precisely similar to that employed in Europe at the pre- sent day for the same purpose, of which there are several instances in other parts of Thebes; and another point is here satisfactorily established, that the Egyptian chariots were of wood, and not of bronze, as some have imagined. The person of this catacomb was a high-priest, but his name is erased. No. 35 is by far the most curious, I may say, of all the private tombs in Thebes, since it throws more light on the manners and customs of the Egyptians than any hitherto dis- covered, In the outer chamber on the left hand (entering) is a grand procession of Ethiopian and Asiatic chiefs, bear- ing a tribute to the Egyptian monarch, Thothmes III. They are arranged in five lines. The first or uppermost consists of blacks, and others of a red colour, from the country of Pount, who bring ivory, apes, leopards, skins, and dried fruits. Their dress is short, similar to that of some of the Asiatic tribes, who are represented at Medednet H boo. In the second line are a people of a light red hue, with long black hair descending in ringlets over their shoulders, but without beards: their dress also consists of a short apron thrown round the lower part of the body, meeting and folding over in front, and they wear sandals richly worked. Their presents are vases of elegant form, ornamented with flowers, necklaces, and other costly gifts, which, according to the hieroglyphics, they bring as "chosen (offerings) of the chiefs of the Gentiles of Kufa." In the third line are Ethiopians, who are styled "Gentiles of the South." The leaders are dressed in the Egyptian costume, the others have a girdle of skin, with the hair, as usual, outwards. They bring gold rings, and bags of precious stones (?) or rather gold-dust, hides, apes, leopards, ebony, ivory, ostrich eggs and plumes, a camelopard, hounds with handsome collars, and a drove of long-horned oxen. The fourth line is composed of men of a northern nation, clad in long white garments, with a blue border, tied at the neck, and ornamented with a cross or other devices. On their head is either a close cap, or their natural hair, short, and of a red colour, and they have a small beard. Some bring long gloves, which, with their close sleeves, indicate as well as their white colour, that they are the inha- bitants of a cold climate. Among other offerings are vases, similar to those of the Kufa, a chariot and horses, a bear, elephant, and ivory. Their name is Rot-fi-no, which reminds us of the Ratheni of Arabia Petrea; but the style of their dress and the nature of their offerings require them to have come from a richer and more civilised country, probably much far- 368 Sect IV. THE MOST CURIOUS TOMB. ther to the north. Xenophon mentions gloves in Persia. In the fifth line Egyptians lead the van, and are followed by women of Ethiopia (Cush), "the Gentiles of the South," carrying their children in a pannier suspended from their head. Behind these are the wives of the Rot-fi-no, who are dressed in long robes, divided into three sets of ample flounces. The offerings being placed in the presence of the monarch, who is seated on his throne at the upper part of the picture, an inventory is taken of them by the Egyptian scribes. Those oppo- site the upper line consist of baskets of dried fruits, gold rings, and twoobelisks. On the second line are ingots and rings of silver, gold and silver vases of very elegant form, and several heads of animals of the same metals. On the third are ostrich eggs and feathers, ebony, precious stones and rings of gold, an ape, several silver cups, ivory, leopard-skins, ingots and rings of gold, sealed bags of precious stones or gold-dust, and other objects ; and on the fourth line are gold and silver rings, vases of the same metal, and of porcelain, with rare woods and various other rich presents. (See plate at end of vol. i. 1, Anc. Eg.) The inner chamber contains sub- jects of the most interesting and di- versified kind. Among them, on the left (entering), are cabinet-makers, carpenters, rope-makers, and sculp- tors, some of whom are engaged in levelling and squaring, a stone, and others in finishing a sphinx, with two colossal statues of the king. The whole process of briekmaking is also introduced. Their bricks were made with a simple mould; the stamp (for they bore the name of a king, or of some high-priest) was not on the pallet, but was apparently impressed on the upper surface previous to their drying. But they do not seem to have used pressure while exposing them to the sun, as I had supposed from the compact nature of Egyptian crude bricks, several of which I have found as firm as when first made, bearing the name of Thothmes III., of the 18th dynasty, in whose reign this tomb was also executed. They are not however Jews, as some have supposed; but of the countries mentioned in the sculptures. It is sufficiently interesting to find a sub- ject illustrating so completely the description of the Jews and their taskmasters given in the Bible; with- out striving to give it an importance to which it has no claim. (Anc. Eg., vol. ii. p. 99.) Others are employed in heating a liquid over a charcoal fire, to which are applied, on either side, a pair of bellows. These are worked by the feet, the operator standing and press- ing them alternately, while he pulls up each exhausted skin by a string he holds in his hand. In one in- stance the man has left the bellows but they are raised, as if full of air, which would imply a knowledge of the valve. Another singular fact is learnt from these paintings-their ac- quaintance with the use of glue- which is heated on the fire, and spread with a thick brush on a level piece of board. One of the work- men then applies two pieces of differ- ent coloured wood to each other, and this circumstance seems to decide that glue is here intended to be repre- sented rather than a varnish or colour of any kind. On the opposite wall the attitude of a maid-servant pouring out some wine to a lady, one of the guests, and returning an empty cup to a black slave who stands behind her, is ad- mirably portrayed; nor does it offer the stiff position of an Egyptian figure. And the manner in which the slave is drawn, holding a plate with her arm and hand reversed, is very characteristic of a custom pecu- liar to the blacks. The guests are entertained by music, and the women here sit apart from the men. Several other subjects are worthy of notice in this tomb; among which may be mentioned a garden (on the right- hand wall) where the personage of the tomb is introduced in his boat, towed by his servants on a lake surrounded by Theban palms and date-trees. R3 369 U. Egypt. THEBES.--PRIVATE TOMBS. Numerous liturgies (or parentalia) are performed to the mummy of the de- ceased; and a list of offerings, at the upper end of the tomb, are registered, with their names and number, in se- parate columns. The form of this inner chamber is singular, the roof ascending at a con- siderable angle towards the end wall ; from below which the spectator, in looking towards the door, may ob- serve a striking effect of false per- spective. In the upper part is a niche, or recess, at a considerable height above the pavement. The name of the individual of the tomb has been erased. In the tomb marked q. below this hill, are some fowling scenes, and the return from the chase. In this last the figure of a man carrying a gazelle, accompanied by his dogs, is remarkably good. (Anc. Eg., vol. iii. p. 13.) Other very curious sculptures adorn a tomb (marked a), immediately be- low the isolated hill to the west of the entrance of the Assaseef; if they have bQen fortunate enough to escape de- struction. In the outer chamber is the most complete procession of boats of any met with in the catacombs of Thebes. Two of them contain the female relatives of the deceased, his sister being chief mourner. One has on board the mummy, deposited in a shrine, to which a priest offers in- cense; in the other several women seated, or standing on the roof of the cabin, beat their heads in token of grief. In a third boat are the men, who make a similar lamentation, with two of the aged matrons of the family; and three others contain the flowers and offerings furnished by the priests for the occasion, several of whom are also in attendance. (Anc. Eg., plate 84). The Egyptians could not even here resist their turn for caricature. A small boat, owing to the retrograde movement of a larger one that had grounded and was pushed off the bank, is struck by the rudder, and a large table, loaded with cakes and various things, is overturned on the boatmen as they row. The procession arrives at the oppo- site bank, not, I imagine, of the river, but of the Lake of the Libyan suburb, and follows the officiating priest along the sandy plain. The "sister " of the deceased, embracing the mummy, ad- dresses her lost relative: flowers, cakes, incense, and various offerings are presented before the tomb; the ululation of the men and women con- tinues without; and several females, carrying their children in shawls sus- pended from their shoulders, join in the lamentation. On the corresponding wall, men and women, with the body exposed above the waist, throw dust on their heads, or cover their face with mud,-a cus- tom recorded by Herodotus and Di- odorus, and still retained in the funeral ceremonies of the Egyptian peasants to the present day. The former states that "the females of the family cover their heads and faces with mud, and wander through the city beating themselves, wearing a girdle, and having their bosoms bare, accompanied by all their intimate friends; the men also make similar lamentations in a separate company." Besides other interesting groups on this wall are the figures of the mother, wife, and daughter of the deceased, following a funeral sledge drawn by oxen, where the character of the three ages is admirably portrayed. In the inner chamber are an Egyp- tian house and garden, the cattle, and a variety of other subjects, among which may be traced the occupations of the weaver, and of the gardener drawing water with the pole and bucket, the shadoof of the present day. Statues in high relief are seated at the upper end of this part of the tomb, and on the square pillars in its centre are the names of Amunoph I. and queen Ames-nofri-are. There are few other catacombs worthy of a visit, unless the traveller makes a protracted stay at Thebes, and is desirous of collecting everything that they present for the study of hieroglyphics or the customs of the Egyptians; in which case he will do 370 Sect. IV. U. Egypt. CHARACTEB OF well to examine all that are numbered in my Survey, except those behind the hill of Shekh Abd el Koorneh, which are unsculptured. Few indeed feel inclined to devote their time to a research of this kind. Some are in a hurry to get through the labour of sight-seeing: others fancy they must be at some particular place at a certain time; and some persuade themselves that one or two days suffice to look over the whole of Thebes. All, it must be allowed, cannot be equally interested in the examination of Egyptian antiquities; and to be- come sufficiently acquainted with the style of their architecture and sculp- ture, so as to be able to distinguish those of different epochs, and com- prehend the subjects represented, re- quires much more time and attention than the generality of travellers can be expected to afford; but the limited space of one or two days is not ac- tually sufficient to authorise any one to say he has seen Thebes. Every one must feel some interest in Egyptian works of art; if it be merely from their early date and the. grandeur of their style; for, in spite of all the defects of Egyptian archi- tecture and sculpture, they have at least the great merit of originality; nor can any one, however prepossessed against them, deny the imposing gran- deur of the Theban temples, or the admirable style of drawing in the unfinished chamber of Belzoni's tomb, and other monuments of the earlier eras, where the freedom of the out- lines evinces the skill of no ordinary artist. The character of the animals of their country, whether quadrupeds, birds, or fish, will be allowed by every one to be faithfully maintained; and if it be not found in the human figure, the reason is that their artists were forbidden by religious prejudice to, deviate from ancient and fixed rules. And though the employment of granite, particularly for statues, cannot be considered the result of refined taste, it will at least be ad- mitted that the perfection they arrived EGYPTIAN ART. 371 at in sculpturing this stone shows wonderful ingenuity, and testifies the advanced state of Egyptian art at a most remote period. That they borrowed nothing from the Greeks will be admitted by every one in the least acquainted with Egyptian antiquities, though some have imagined that the accession of the Ptolemies introduced a change, and even an improvement, in the style of Egyptian sculpture. A change had indeed already commenced, and was making fatal progress during the era of those monarchs; but it was the prelude to the total decadence of Egyptian art; and shortly after the Roman conquest the human figure, the hieroglyphics, and even the subjects represented in the temples, scarcely retained a trace of their former spirit. Yet their edifices were grand and majestic; and the antiquary feels ad- ditional regret as he contemplates the remains of that era, retaining still the character of Egyptian architecture, but disfigured by inferior sculpture. Architecture, more dependent on adherence to certain rules than the sister-art, was naturally less speedily affected by the decline of the taste and ingenuity of its professors: and as long as encouragement was held out to their exertions, the grandest edifices might yet be constructed from mere imitation, or from the knowledge of the means necessary for their exe- cution. But this could never be the case with sculpture, which had so many more requisites than previous example or mere custom; nor could success be attained by the routine of mechanism, or the servile imitation of former models. 14. EASTERN BAN.-LuxoR, EL UV- son, on A BOO 'L HAGGAG, CALLED BY THE ANCIENT ErGYPTIANs "SOUTHERN TAP'." Luxor, or Luksor, which occupies part of the site of ancient Diospolis, still holds the rank of a market-town. Its name, Luksor, or El Kosdor, sig- nifies "the palaces," from the temple DESCRIPTION OF THEBES. there erected by. Amunoph III. and Remeses II. The former monarch built the original sanctuary and the adjoining chambers, with the addition of the large colonnade and the pylon before it, to which Remeses II. after- wards added the great court, the py- ramidal towers, and the obelisks and statues. These, though last in the order of antiquity, necessarily form the present commencement of the temple, which, like many others belonging to different epochs, is not "two separate edifices," but one and the same building. A dromos, connecting it with Karnak, extended in front of the two beautiful obelisks of red granite, whose four sides are covered with a profusion of hieroglyphics, no less admirable for the style of their execution than for the - depth to which they are cut, which in many instances exceeds 2 inches. The faces of the obelisks, particularly those which are opposite each other, are remarkable for a slight convexity of their centres, which appears to have been introduced to obviate the shadow thrown by the sun, even when on a line with a plane-surface. The exterior angle thus formed by the intersecting lines of direction of either side of the face is about 3 degrees; and this is one of many proofs of their attentive observa- tion of the phenomena of nature. The westernmost of these two obe- lisks has been removed by the French, and is the one now in the Place de la Concorde at Paris. Being at Luxor when it was taken down, I observed beneath the lower end, on which it stood, the nomen and prenomen of Remeses II., and a slight fissure ex- tending some distance up it; and what is very remarkable, the obelisk was cracked previous to its erection, and was secured by two wooden dove- tailed cramps. These, however, were destroyed by the moisture of the ground in which the base had become accidentally buried. Behind the obelisks are two sitting statues of the same Remeses, one on either::side of the pylon or gateway; but, like the former, they are much buried in the earth and sand accumu- lated around them. Near the N.W. extremity of the propyla another similar colossus rears its head amidst the houses of the village, which also conceal a great portion of the interest- ing battle-scenes on the front of the towers. Many of these are very spirited; and on the western tower is the camp, surrounded by a wall, re- presented by Egyptian shields, with a guard posted at the gate. Within are chariots, horses, and the spoil taken from the enemy, as well as the holy place that held the Egyptian ark in a tent; instances of which are found on other monuments, as at Aboosimbel. There is also the king's chariot, shaded by a large umbrella or parasol. At the doorway itself is the name of Sabaco, and on the abacus of the columns beyond, that of Ptolemy Phi- lopator, both added at a later epoch. The area within, whose dimensions are about 190 ft. by 170, is surrounded by a peristyle, consisting of two rows of columns, now almost concealed by hovels, and the mosk of the village. The line of direction no longer con- tinues the same behind this court, the Remesean front having been turned to the eastward; which was done in order to facilitate its connexion with the great temple of Karnak, as well as to avoid the vicinity of the river. Passing through the pylon of Amunoph, you arrive at the great colonnade, where the names of this Pharaoh and of Amun-Toonkh (or Toonh) are sculptured. The latter, however, has been effaced, as is gene- rally the case wherever it is met with, and those of Horus (the successor ot Amunoph III.) and of Sethi are intro- duced in its stead. The length of the colonnade to the next court is about 170 ft., but its original breadth is still uncertain, nor can it be ascertained without con- siderable excavation. Indeed it can ,scarcely be confined to the line of the wall extending from the pylon, which would restrict its breadth to 67 ft.; but there is no part of the wall of the front court where it could have been attached, as the sculpture continues 372 Sect. IV. U& Egypt. TEMPLE to the very end of its angle. The side-columns were probably never added. STo this succeeds an area ef 155 ft. by 167, surrounded by a peristyle of 12 columns in length and the same in breadth, terminating in a covered portico of 32 columiis, 57ft. by 111. Behind this is a space occupying the whole breadth of the building, divided into chambers of different dimensions, the centre one leading to a hall sup- ported by four columns, immediately before the entrance to the isolated sanctuary. On the E. of the hall is a chamber containing some curious sculpture, re- presenting the accouchement of Queen Maut-sh-shoi, the mother of Amunoph. Two children nursed by the deity of the Nile are presented to Amun, the presiding divinity of Thebes ; and several other subjects relate to the singular triad worshipped in this temple. The original sanctuary was perhaps destroyed by the Persians; but the present one was rebuilt by Alexander (the son of Alexander, Ptolemy being governor of Egypt), and bears his name in the following dedicatory for- mula: "This work (?) made he, the king of men, lord of the regions, Alexander, for his father Amunre, pre- sident of Tapi (Thebes); he erected to him the sanctuary, a grand mansion, with repairs of sandstone, hewn, good, and hard stone, in lieu of? (that made by ?) his majesty, the king of men, Amunoph." Behind the sanctuary are two other sets of apartments, the larger ones supported by columns and orna- mented with rich sculpture, much of which appears to have been gilded. Between this part and the great columnar hall is one of the old cham- bers, measuring 34 ft. 6 by 57 ft. 1, with a semicircular niche, which till excavated by the French consul was thought to have been the apse of a church. This excavation has shown that its walls were covered with frescoes of late Roman time; and it was evidently a court of law with the usual tribunal, in which are painted three figures larger than life wearing O F LUxoR. 373 the toga and sandals. The centre one holds a staff or sceptre (scipio) in the right hand and a globe in the left; and near him was some object now defaced. The other two figures have each a scroll in one hand. On the walls to the right and left are the traces of figures, which are interesting from their costume; and on the side- wall to the E. are several soldiers with their horses, drawn with great spirit. The colours are much damaged by exposure, but when first opened these frescoes are said to have been in good preservation. They pro- bably date after the age of Con- stantine. The costumes are re- markable; and some of the men wear embroidered upper garments, tight hose, and laced boots, or shoes tied over the instep. The false wainscot, or dado below, is richly coloured in imitation of porphyry and other stones incrusted in patterns, and is better preserved than the frescoes of the upper part, where the old gods of Egypt in bas-relief have outlived the paintings that once concealed them. There appear to be traces of a small cross painted at one side of the tribune, and the figures have a nimbus round their heads, but without any of the character of Christian saints. Nor was the nimbus confined to saints by the early Christians. Behind the temple is a stone quay, apparently of the late era of the Ptolemies or Caesars, since blocks bearing the sculpture of the former have been used in its construction. Opposite the corner of the temple it takes a more easterly direction, and points out the original course of the river, which continued across the plain now lying between it and the ruins of Karnak, and which may be traced by the descent of the surface of that ground it gradually deserted. The southern extremity of the quay is of brick (probably a Roman addition), and indicates in like manner the former direction of the stream; which now, having hollowed out a space behind it, threatens to sweep away the whole, and to undermine the founda- tions of the temple itself. DESCRIPTION OF THEBES. 15. KARNAK. The road to Karnak lies through fields of poa or halfa-grass, indicating the site of ancient ruins; and a short distance to the right is a mound, with the tomb of a shekh called Aboo Jood; a little beyond which, to the S., are remains of columns and an old wall. Here and there, on ap- proaching the temple, the direction of the avenue (once a great street) and the fragments of its sphinxes are traced in the bed of a small canal or watercourse, which the Nile, during the inundation, appropriates to its rising stream. To this succeeds an- other dromos of Criosphinxes, and a majestic pylon of Ptolemy Euergetes, with his queen and sister, Berenice, who in one instance present an offering to their predecessors and parents, Phi- ladelphus and Arsinoi. In one of the compartments, within the doorway, the king is represented in a Greek cos- tume; instances of which are rare, even on Ptolemaic monuments. An- other avenue of sphinxes extends to the towers or propyla of the isolated temple behind this pylon, which was founded by Remeses III., and con- tinued by Remeses IV. and VIII., and a later Pharaoh, who added a gateway and the court of Columns. His name is Amun-se-Pehor, whom I supposed to be Bocchoris; but he was probably a king of the 21st dynasty, which immediately preceded Sheshonk, Shi- shak, the contemporary of Solomon. He was succeeded by Pi6nkh (or Pi6nkhi I.), and his son Pishim; and these were probably the Osochor, Psinaches, and Psusennes of Manetho. They appear here and elsewhere to have been military priests, who ob- tained the throne, and whose feeble rile was followed by the foreign dynasty of Sheshonks (see above, p. 269). Other names appear in different parts of the building, among which are those of Amyrteus (or as some read it, Nectagebo) and Alexander, on the inner and outer gateways of the area. The principal entrance of the grand temple lies on the N.W. side, or that facing the river. From a raised plat- form commences an avenue of Crio- sphinxes leading to the front propyla, before which stood two granite statues of a Pharaoh. One of these towers retains a great part of its original height, but has lost its summit and cornice. In the upper part their solid walls have been perforated through their whole breadth, for the purpose of fastening the timbers that secured the flagstaffs usually placed in front of these propyla; but no sculptures have ever been added to either face, nor was the surface yet levelled to receive them. Passing through the pylon of these towers, you arrive at a large open court (or area), 275 ft. by 329, with a covered corridor on either side, and a double line of columns down the centre. Other propyla terminate this area, with a small vestibule before the pylon, and form the front of the grand hall of assembly, the lintel-stones of whose doorway were 40 ft. 10 in. in length. The grand hall measures 170 ft. by 329, supported by a central avenue of 12 massive columns, 62 ft. high (without the plinth and abacus)L and 11 ft. 6 in diameter; besides 122 of smaller or (rather) less gigantic dimensions, 42 ft. 5 in. in height, and 28 ft. in circumference, distributed in seven lines on either side of the former. The 12 central columns were originally 14, but the two northernmost have been enclosed within the front towers or propyla, apparently in the time of Sethi or Osirei, himself, the founder of the hall. The two at the other end were also partly built into the project- ing wall of the doorway, as appears from their rough sides, which were left uneven for that purpose. Attached to this doorway are two other towers, closing the inner extremity of the hall; beyond which are two obelisks, one still standing on its original site, the other having been thrown down and broken by human violence. Similar, but smaller, propyla succeed to this court, of which they form the inner side. The next court contains two obelisks of larger dimensions, the 374 Sect. IV. GREAT TEMPLE OF KARNAK. one now standing being 92 ft. high and 8 square, surrounded by a peristyle of Osiride figures. Passing between two dilapidated propyla, you enter another smaller area, ornamented in a similar manner, and succeeded by a vestibule in front of the granite-gateway Qf the towers which form the fagade of the court before the sanctuary. This sanctuary is of red granite, divided into two apartments, and sur- rounded by numerous chambers of small dimensions, varying from 29 ft. by 16, to 16 ft. by 8. A few polygonal columns of the early date of Osirtgsen I. appear be- hind the sanctuary, in the midst of fallen architraves of the same era, and beyond are two pedestals of red granite, crossing the line of direction in the centre of the open space to the S.E. They may have supported obe- lisks; but they are not square, like the basements of those monuments, and rather resemble, for this reason, the pedestals of statues. Their substrue- tions are of limestone. After this you come to the columnar edifice of the 3rd Thothmes. Its ex- terior wall is entirely destroyed, except on the N.E. side. Parallel to the four outer walls is a row of square pillars, going all round, within the edifice, 32 in number; and in the centre are 20 columns, disposed in two lines, parallel to the back and front row of pillars. But the position of the latter does not accord with the columns of the centre; and an unusual caprice has changed the established order of the architectural details, the capitals and cornices being reversed, without adding to the beauty or increasing the strength of the building. The latter, however, had the effect of admitting more light to the interior. Adjoining the S.W. angle of its front is a small room (No. 14) containing the names of the early predecessors of Thothmes III., hence called the chamber of kings-a most important monument, which has now been removed to Paris. A series of small halls and rooms occupy the extremity of the temple. In the southern side adum (No. 17) are the vestiges of a colossal hawk, seated on a raised pedestal; the sculp- tures within and without containing the name of Alexander, by whose order it was repaired and sculptured. The total dimensions of this part of the temple, behind the inner propyla of the grand ball, are 600 ft., by about half that in breadth, making the total length, from the front propyla to the extremity of the wall of circuit, in- clusive, 1180 ft. The additions made at different periods, by which the dis- tant portions of this extensive mass of buildings were united, will be more readily understood from an examina- tion of my Survey than from any de- scription, however detailed, I could offer to the reader. And from this it will appear that Diodorus is fully justified in the following statement: that "the circuit of the most ancient of the four temples at Thebes measured 13 stadia," or about 11 mile English. The thickness of the walls, "of 25 feet," owing to the great variety in their dimensions, is too vague to be noticed; but the height he gives to the building of 45 cubits (67 ft.), is far too little for the grand hall, which, from the pavement to the summit of the roof inclusive, is not less than 80 ft. 16. COMPARATIVE ANTIQuITY OF THE BUILDINGS. No part, in my opinion, remains of the earliest foundation of the temple ; but the name of Osirtasen suffices to support its claim to great antiquity; and if no monument remains at Thebes of the earliest dynasties, this may be explained by the fact of its not having been founded when the kings of the Pyramid period ruled at Memphis. The original sanctuary, which was probably of sandstone, doubtless ex- isted in the reign of that monarch, and stood on the site of the present one (marked 9)-an opinion confirmed by our finding the oldest remains in that direction, as well as by the propor- tions of the courts and propyla, whose dimensions were necessarily made to accord with those of the previous parts, U. Egypt. 375 DESCRIPTION OF THEBES. to which they were united. All is here on a limited scale, and the polygonal columns of Osirtasen evince the chaste style of architecture in vogue at that early era. (See No. 12 of the ground- plan). Subsequently to his reign were added the small chambers of Amunoph I. -the obelisks of Thothmes I.-the great obelisks, and the rooms near the sanctuary, of Amun-nou-het (No. 12) --and on the corresponding side the chambers of Thothmes II. They constituted the main part of the temple at that period. The suc- ceeding monarch, Thothmes III., made considerable additions to the buildings and sculptures, as well in the vicinity of the sanctuary as in the back part of the great enclosure; where the columnar edifice above-mentioned, the side-chambers, and all the others in that direction, were added by his orders. The sanctuary, destroyed by the Persians, and since rebuilt by Philip Aridous, was also of the same Pha- raoh; who seems to have been the first to build it of red granite, and a block of that stone which now forms part of the ceiling, and bears the name of the 3rd Thothmes, belonged most probably to the sanctuary he rebuilt. The wall No. 11 is double, the inner part bearing the name of Amun-nou- het, the actual face that of Thothmes III., who presents to the god of Thebes a variety of offerings, among which are two obelisks and two lofty tapering staffs, similar to those at- tached to the propyla. At the close of his reign the temple only extended to the smaller obelisks; before which were added, by Amunoph III., the propyla (D), whose recesses for the flagstaffs, proving them to have been originally the front towers of the temple, are still visible on the N.W. face. The propyla to the S.W. were already erected in the reigns of the Thothmes, as I shall have occasion to remark presently. In the third reign after Amunoph the grand hall (0) was added by Sethi I.; the father of Remeses II.; and besides the innumerable bas- reliefs that adorn its walls, historical scenes, in the most finished and elegant style of Egyptian sculpture, were designed on the exterior of the N.E. side. In the next reign other grand ad- ditions were made by the son of the last monarch, who completed the sculp- tures on the S.W. side of the grand hall, and on the exterior of the wall of circuit. He also built the area in front, with massive propyla, preceded by granite colossi and an avenue of sphinxes. Succeeding monarchs continued to display their piety, to gratify their own vanity, or to court the goodwill of the priesthood, by making additions to the buildings erected by their predecessors; and the several isolated monuments, becoming attached to the principal pile, formed at length one immense whole, connected either by grand avenues of sphinxes, or by crude-brick enclosures. The principal edifices united to the main temple by the successors of the 2nd Remeses are the three chambers below the front propyla (B, 2), and the small but complete temple on the W. side of this area (marked 9); the latter by Remeses III., the former by his second predecessor, Sethi, or Osirei, II. Several sculptures were added, during the 22nd dynasty, at the western corner of the same area; and on the exterior wall, near the door- way, are the names of the captive towns and districts which the first Sheshonk (Shishak of the Scriptures) boasted to have taken in his expedi- tion against Jerusalem, B.c. 971. Among them is the Yooda-Melchi, "king,'? or "kingdom of Judah," dis- covered by Champollion. The columns in this court, one alone of which is now standipg, bear the name of Tirhaka, Psammetichus II., and of Ptolemy Philopator; and the gateway between them and the grand hall having been altered by Ptolemy Physcon, additional sculp- tures, bearing his name, were inserted amidst those of the 2nd Remeses (at 6 and 7). On the left, as you enter, he wears a Greek helmet (marked 7). 376 Secion IV. ANTIQUITY OF THE BUILDINGS. These columns, twelve in number, stood in an avenue, six on each side: we may, however, conclude from the breadth of the intercolumniations, and the proportionate smallness of the columns, that they were never intended to support a roof, nor even architraves, but rather to bear hawks or similar emblems. Of the other monuments, originally detached from the main body of the temple, the most ancient are the S.W. propyla, and a temple of Amunoph III. (K), on the N.E. of the great enclosure. Other names, in the dif- ferent parts of this building, are of Pthahmen, Remeses IV., Amyrtmeus (?), Hakoris and some of the Ptolemies. It was once adorned with elegant sculptures and two granite obelisks, but is now a confused heap of ruins, whose plan is with difficulty traced be- neath its fallen walls. In front of it stands a well-pro- portioned pylon, bearing the names and sculptures of Ptolemy Euergtes, with Berenice, and of Philopator; beyond which an avenue of sphinxes extends to a raised platform at its N.E. extremity. The pylon, which was of a much earlier date than the sculptures it bears, having attached to it the statues of Remeses II., is the only portion of this building which has remained uninjured; and, though we may with reason attribute much of the ruinous condition of Thebes to the Persians, the names on this pylon, and many Ptolemaic additions to the temple of Amun, fully prove that its capture by Lathyrus was far more detrimental to this city than the pre- vious invasion of Cambyses. A protracted siege of three years had exasperated the Ptolemaic con- queror against his rebellious subjects; and he sought, by the destruction of Thebes, to wound the pride of its in- habitants, while he wrested from them for ever the means and prospect of future resistance. The feeling which induced the Per- sians to deface its monuments was of a different nature. They had become masters of Egypt; they were not more inimical to the Thebans than to any other of the inhabitants of the coun- try; the destruction of the statues or the sanctuaries might be prompted by a contempt for their votaries; and the pillage of all that was capable of being removed, or even the burning of the city, would rather be the cus- tom of the day than any extraordinary severity exercised by the conquering enemy. The Persians were hostile to Egypt; Lathyrus was solely enraged against the Thebans; and on them the whole weight of his vengeance naturally fell. And the animosity of civil war, inflamed by jealousy against a neighbouring rival, prompted the Egyptian victors to destroy those monuments which contributed to the grandeur or the strength of Thebes. Had the temple before us been de- molished at the earlier period of the Persian invasion, it is needless to re- mark that the sculptures of this pylon would not have been added during the Ptolemaic reigns, to adorn a mass of ruins, or that the Persians would not have left it alone untouched. And though great depredations were com- mitted by the Persians at Thebes, modern visitors have more reason to regret the implacable rage of the Greek monarch, which reduced it to so deplorable a state that it "no longer deserved a rank among the cities of Egypt." Nor did it ever revive from this fatal blow; and though the respect for the deities there worshipped, or the influence of the Theban priesthood, induced the succeeding Ptolemies to repair several of the gateways and other parts of its ancient buildings, Thebes gradually sank into oblivion; and its reduced population, divided into separate bodies, even as early as the time of Strabo, withdrew to small towns, or as he calls them villages, within its for- mer precincts. The S.W. propyla before alluded to are of the early date of the 1st, 2nd, and 3rd Thothmes, and of Amunoph II.; and on the N. side of the south- ernmost of the two nearest the temple, behind the statues (34, 35), we find the mention of "repairs" made by king Sethi I. to the temple of Amunre. U. Egypt. 377 On the other (No. 32), which has Bakhan to have preceded that of lately been destroyed, and on the Horus; and that Bakhan was the suc- walls connecting it with the temple, cessor of Amunoph III. is proved by is the name of king Horus, who not his being represented making offerings only cut his name over that of an to him as a god in the temple of Soleb older monarch, Amun-Toonkh, but in Ethiopia. It was fortunate that used the stones of earlier buildings, some one interested in the subject bearing the ovals of king Atinre- was present when these propyla were Bakhan and others of that foreign pulled down; and from the observa- family, which he doubtless destroyed tions of M. Prisse we are enabled to for this purpose. The fact is very make out the probable succession of important, as it shows the reign of some of those kings, as follows :- A B C D -A A . . . .. . . _ 1 2 3 4 5 6 -? 8 9 10 � - 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 21 M. Prisse thinks their order should be 0, D, E, F, G, A, andB; but it appears rather that Eesa, or Skhai (A), and Amun-Toonkh (B) should precede the others; these two being the immediate successors of Amunoph III. As I have already stated, they were not admitted into the Theban list of kings. Eesa is the king whose tomb is in the western valley of Thebes. Nos. 20 and 21 are uncertain. The first is from a ring belonging to Mr. Burton, and the other from the handle of a vase I found at Tel el Amarna. Nos. 6, 13, 16, and 19 are names of queens belonging to the kings they accompany, and 3 is the square title or banner prefixed to the oval of Amun-To6nkh. C is from the third propyla of Karnak, and G from a grotto at Tel el Amarna. It is more than 20 years since I first noticed the interesting question con- nected with these names; and there is still the same reason for inviting the attention of travellers to the subject. Any observations they may have it in their power to make respecting the succession and history of these Stranger princes will be of importance; and no opportunity should be allowed to pass of copying hieroglyphics that contain their ovals. Other monarchs have added sculp- ture to different parts of the two areas before and behind these propyla; and we here find the names of Remeses 11 12 13 878 Sect. IV. DESCRIPTION OF THEBES. 379 U. Egypt. STRANGER KINGS. II. and III., and of some other early Pharaohs. To the S.E. of them is a lake or spacious reservoir, lined with masonry, which still receives the water of the rising Nile as it oozes through the ground; and on its banks are a few small ruins of the late epoch of Psam- mouthis, of the 29th dynasty (marked 25, 26, 27). The small edifice attached to the front area is of the 2nd Amunoph, but the name on the neighbouring outer propyla is of the successor of Amunoph III., and the androsphinxes before them bear that of Sethi II. (No. 28). In a small isolated edifice (0) are the ovals of Thothmes I. and the 3rd Amunoph, whose statues of black granite adorn the inner doorway (No. 39). The ruins within the crude-brick enclosure of the other, or western lake, are of various epochs; and among the sculptures are observed the names of Thothmes III., Amunoph III., Sheshonk I., and Ptolemy Dionysus. The temple (T, 3) and statues which once stood before it are of Remeses I.; and that on the western corner of the lake, also adorned with two granite statues, is of Remeses III. Numerous figures of black granite, representing the lion-headed goddess, are deposited in the precincts of the inner enclosure; and on the back of one of them is an inscription with the names of king Pisham and a queen of the 21st dynasty. Some elegant androsphinxes on the left of the front door are also Worthy of notice. The water of this lake also receives an annual supply, through the soil, from the Nile; but being strongly im- pregnated with nitre and other salts, and stagnant during the heat of the summer, it is no longer drinkable. The sculptures of the pylon (No. 21), behind the great temple, have never been completed. In the door- way is the name of Nectabo, and on the upper part of the S.E. side those of Ptolemy Philadelphus, and of Ario8, his sister and second wife. In the area within this gateway are a few other remains of the time of Sethi I., Remeses II. (No. 19), Tir- haka (No. 20), Ptolemy Physcon, Dionysus, and Tiberius. The com- mencement of it, however, dates from the earlier era of the 3rd Thothmes, as the statues placed against the wall of circuit of the great temple have the name of that Pharaoh (No. 18). By the same monarch was founded the small edifice on the E. of the crude-brick enclosure (F); where the names of Remeses III., of Sabaco, and of the Ptolemies Philpopator, Euerggtes I. and II., Alexander I., and Auletes or Dionysus, are also met with. The small ruin E is of Psammetichus III.; and H of Amyr- tmeus (?) of the 28th dynasty; L of Philopator; Q of Euergetes II., with the two Cleopatras, and of Dionysus; and at R is the name of a Cleopatra. There is also a small temple, dedi- cated to Amun by Sabaco, a short dis- tance from the southern angle of the smaller lake; and near the village called Nega el Fokinee, to the east- ward, about 1000 ft. from the pylon of Nectanebo (No. 21), is a temple built in the time of the Ptolemies. Such are the dates of the principal parts of this extensive mass of build- ings, which I have endeavoured to state in as brief a manner as possible; omitting, of course, the mention of the numerous repairs made at different times by many of the Pharaohs and Ptolemies. 17. Historical Sculptures.-The prin- cipal historical sculptures are on the exterior of the great hall; and towards the base of the SE. propylon-tower of the great hall, on its inner face (to the rt. as you approach it from the sanctuary and the obelisks), is repre- sented a large boat or ark (at C 5); which calls to mind the "boat of cedar, 280 cubits long, overlaid with gold without, and with silver within, dedicated by Sesostris to the prin- cipal deity in Thebes," mentioned by Diodorus. The sculptures of this hall were commenced by Sethi I., and finished by his son Remeses the Great, the DESCRIPTION OF THEBES. supposed Sesostris. Those on the N.E. side are of Sethi I, and relate to his campaigns in the East. To commence with the northern extremity (marked C): the upper com- partment represents the king attack- ing a fortified town situated on a rock, which is surrounded by a wood, and lies in the immediate vicinity of the mountains, whither the flying enemy drive off their herds on the approach of the Egyptian army. The suite of it is entirely lost. In the first compartment of the second line, the king engages the enemy's infantry in the open field, and, having wounded their chief with a lance, entangles him with his bow- string, and slays him with his sword. The drawing in these figures is re- markably spirited; and, allowance being made for the conventional style of the Egyptians, it must be admitted that the principal groups in all these subjects are admirably designed, and would do credit to artists of a later epoch than the 14th century before our era. In the second compartment (following the same line) the Egyptian hero, having alighted from his car, fights hand-in-hand with the chiefs of the hostile army : one has already fallen beneath his spear, and, trampling on the prostrate foe, he seizes his com- panion, who is also destined to fall by his powerful hand. Returning in tri- umph, he leads before his car the fet- tered captives, whom he offers, with the spoil of the cities he has taken, to Amunre, the god of Thebes. This consists of vases, silver, gold, and other precious things, and whatever the mo- narch has been enabled to collect from the plunder of the conquered country. The lowest line commences with an encounter between the Egyptians and the chariots and infantry of the Rot-a-no. Their chief is wounded by the arrows of the Egyptian monarch, who closely pursues him, and disables one of his horses with a spear. He then attempts to quit his car, as his companion falls by his side covered with wounds. The rout of the hostile army is complete, and they fly in the utmost consternation. One is on horse- back. The victorious return of King Sethi is the next subject; and, alight- ing from his chariot, he enters the temple of Amunre, to present his cap- tives and booty to the protecting deity of Thebes. Hle then slays with a club the prisoners of the two conquered na- tions, in the presence of Amunre, the names of whose towns and districts are attached to other figures on the lower part of the wall. The order of the other historical subjects commences at the S.E. angle (marked C 3). In the lower line the Egyptians attack the infantry of an Asiatic enemy in the open field,-the Rot-n-no, whose dress and colour, if they are the same as those represented in the Theban tombs, prove them to have inhabited a country very far to the N. of Egypt. The Egyptians sub- due them and make them captives; and their march, perhaps during their return, is directed through a series of districts, some of which are at peace with, others tributary to, them. The inhabitants of one of these fortified cities come out to meet them, bringing presents of vases and bags of gold, which, with every demonstration of respect, they lay before the monarch, as he advances through their country. He afterwards meets with opposition, and is obliged to attack a hostile army, and a strongly fortified town, situated on a high rock, and sur- rounded by water, with the exception of that part which is rendered inacces- sible by the steepness of the cliff on whose verge it is built. It seems to defy the Egyptian army, but, the enemy are routed and sue for peace. (This is at the angle of the wall.) Their arms are a spear and battle- axe, and they are clad in a coat of mail, with a short and close dress. The name of the town Kanana (or Kanaan), and the early date of the first year of the king's reign, leave little room to doubt that the defeat of the Canaanites is here represented. In the other compartments is repre- sented the return of the Pharaoh to Thebes, leading in triumph the cap- tives he has taken in the war, followed by his son and a "royal scribe," with 380 Sect. IV. a body of Egyptian soldiers, "the royal Their chariots are routed, and the attendants, who have accompanied him I king, having seized the hostile chief, to the foreign land of the Rot-fi-no." smites off his head, which he holds The succession of countries and dis- by the beard. The pursuit of the tricts he passes through on his return enemy continues, and they take re- is singularly but ingeniously detailed : fuge amidst the lofty trees that crown a woody and well-watered country is the heights of their mountainous indicated by trees and lakes, and the country.* The Egyptians follow them consequence of each town by the size to the woods, and heralds are sent by of the fort that represents it; bearing the king to offer them their lives, on a slight analogy to the simple style of condition of their future obedience to description in Xenophon's retreat, his will, and the payment of an annual The Nile is designated by the cro- tribute. The name of the place, called codiles and fish peculiar to that river : in the hieroglyphics Lemanon, is pro- and a bridge serves as a communica- bably Mount Lebanon (m and b being tion with the opposite bank. This is transmutable letters), though, from its very remarkable, as it shows they had being mentioned with the Rot-a-no, bridges over the Nile at that early it should be farther to the northward; period; but being drawn as seen from unless the Rot-i-no were a Syrian above, we cannot decide whether it people. was made with arches or rafters. A Alighting from his car, he awaits concourse of the priests and distin- their answer, which is brought by an guished inhabitants of a large city Egyptian officer, who on his return comes forth to greet his arrival; and salutes his sovereign, and relates the he then proceeds on foot to offer the success of his mission. spoil and captives he has taken to In the third compartment, the hero, the deity. Though probable, it is by who in the heat of the fight had no means certain, that Thebes is here alighted from his chariot, gives proofs represented, especially as the name of of his physical powers as well as his that city does not occur in the hiero- courage, and grasps beneath each glyphics. The deputation consists of arm two captive chiefs; while others, the "priests and the chief men of the bound with ropes, follow to adorn his upper and lower countries;" it should triumph, and grace the offerings of therefore rather refer to his entrance his victory to the god of Thebes. into Egypt; and Tanis would agree On the other wall, at the S.W. better with the hieroglyphics. But side of the grand hall, are represented Thebes is more likely to be repre- the conquests of his son Remeses II.; sented in Theban sculptures. The from which it appears that the war battle edifices on the road, bearing against the same people was continued the name of the king, appear to be during the reign of this monarch. out of Egypt; and may either point In the upper compartments, at the out the places where he had a palace, or N.W. end, Remeses attacks the enemy, signify that they were tributary to him. who are routed, and take refuge in In the compartments of the upper their fortified town, situated on a line the Egyptians attack the enemy high mountain. He then storms an- in the open field, and oblige them to other fort; and in the next compart- take shelter in a fortified town, situ- ment he gives them battle in the open ated on a lofty hill flanked by a lake plain, where he obtains a complete of water. Near its banks, and on victory, and secures many prisoners. the acclivity of the mountain, are The remnant of their army retreats to several trees and caverns; amongst a fortified city, which he storms, and which some lie concealed, while obliges to surrender at discretion. others, alarmed for the fate of their city, throw dust on their heads, and * Round the S.E. corner of the wall. The endeavour to deprecate the wrath of suite then returns to the former part of the the victor, sculptures. 381 HISTORICAL SCULPTURES. U. Egypt. ROUTE 26.-KENEH TO KOSSAYR. In all these compartments, except one, the king is represented on foot, with his shield before him and a spear in his hand, indicating that the places were taken by assault. In the lower line he advances, in his car, to the walls of a fort; in the next compart- ment he storms another, on foot; and afterwards appears before a third, mounted in his chariot. The rest is much defaced; but sufficient remains to show that he offers the spoils and captives to the god of the temple. Behind the side door of the hall, in the upper line, he besieges a forti- fied town, on foot; he then attacks the enemy in the open field; and having overtaken the car of their chief, entangles him with his bow- string, and, stepping forward on the pole, despatches him with his sword. The discomfiture of the hostile army is new complete, and they fly to their fenced city in the utmost confusion. The subjects in this line terminate with offerings to the deity of Thebes. In the lower series are a large talet of hieroglyphics, and the attack of another fortified town. The battle scenes continue on the wall of the court (marked 29), where the Egyptians attack the foe in the plain, who are routed and pursued to the walls of their city. In the other compartments are many similar subjects, and a tablet of the twenty-first year of Remeses II., in which mention is made of his father Sethi, and grandfather Remeses I. Beyond this, the Egyptian monarch storms another fort; his troops apply scaling ladders to the walls, and, forcing the gates, oblige the inhabit- ants to surrender at discretion. In the next compartment, he alights from his car, and binds the prisoners he has taken, to serve as a token of his victory and as an offering to the god of Thebes. The remaining walls of these courts were ornamented with a continuation of similar historical sculptures; but few traces of them now remain. The captives taken by Sheshonk (Shishak), in his expedition against Jerusalem, are on the S.W. wall of the main temple (marked 8); but the greater part of the other subjects relate to offerings made by the kings, who officiate before the different deities of the temple. Within the gateway between the list of Shishak's captives and the temple of Remeses III., mention is made of other members of the She- shonk family, among whom are Tacel- lothis, or Tiglath, and his Queen Ke- romama; and the temple of Remeses III. is interesting from its being built entirely by that king, and a complete model of a small Egyptian temple. It opens on the front area. Beyond the circuit of ancient Thebes may be noticed, on the E. side, some stone remains near the road to Me- damot, and some grottoes in the moun- tains towards the S.E. of Karnak, from near which an ancient road runs southwards into the desert of the Ababdeh. On the Libyan side, upon the sum- mit of the mountain which projects to the N. of the AI.kaba road, and the entrance to the valley of the kings' tombs, are the ruins of a crude-brick building, called E' Dayr, most pro- bably of Christian date. Hence a road leads over the mountains to the northwards, joining the other at a short distance inland, and going towards Farshoot. ROUTE 26. .ENEH TO VOSSAYR, BY TIHE MOAYLEH OR MOILEH ROAD. Miles. Keneh to Beer Amber .. .. 11 Wells of El Egafta (Eghayta) 214 The 1st Wells to W. of Moileh (Moayldh) .. .. .. .. 381 2nd Wells to W. of Moile'h .. 3 Wells of Moileh. .. .. .. .. 4 Beer el Ingleez (near El Bayda) 29J Springs of El A'mbagee .. .. 5' Kossayr (fort) .. .. .. .. 6 119$ 382 Sect. IV. U. Egypt. ROUTES 27, 28.--ROM THE NILE TO OSSAYR. ROUTE 27. KENERI TO KOSSAYR, BY THE BRUSSAFA ROAD. Keneh to Beer Amber Wells of El Egayta .. Well of Hammamit .. Well called Moie-t (or Hagee Soolayman Beer el Ingleez .... Ambagee .. .. .. Kossayr .. .. .. Miles. .. .. 11 .. .. 214 .. .. 241J Sayfl-t) 33 .. .. 33 .. .. 15 .. .. 5* .. .. 6 1174 ROUTE 28. THEBES TO OSSAYR. Miles. Thebes (Karnak) to 1edamot, (E. bank) .. .. .. .. 5 Coptos (E.) .... .. .. .. 373 Wells of El Egayta .. .... 27 El Egayta to Kossayr 834 or (see Rtes. 26, 27) .... .. 868 1552 The roads from Thebes and from Veneh unite at the wells of El Egayta, and are thence the same to Kossayr. The Moile'h, or Moayleh road, and the Derb E' Russafa are the most frequented. They both meet at El Egayta, where they diverge, and unite again at El Bayda "the white" (hills), so called from the colour of the rocks; where there is a well, called Beer el Ingleez, from having been dug by our Indian army on its way to the Nile, The water is brackish; and that at El Ambagee is bad. At the others the water is good. There are several roads from the Nile to Kossayr. The principal ones beginning from the S. are :-1. That called Mughayg. 2. E' Debbfh. 3. El Merkh, or Essaywee. 4. Sikkat El Homir, "the Ass's road," or El Edo t, passing by Moayldeh, and Wad El Gush; and thence called also the Moayleh Road. 5. E' Russafa, or Derb E' Russafa. 6. Sikkat el Ham- mamee, a long and rough road. Arabs with their camels for the journey had perhaps better be en- gaged at Keneh. There is nothing worthy of remark on the Moayleh road. There are some Ababdeh Arabs settled near this and the Derb E' Russafa, from whom milk may sometimes be obtained; and camels, laden with corn for Arabia are occasionally met on their way to Kossayr. The most interesting road is the Derb E' Russafa; from the ancient Roman stations met with at intervals, and from its having been the old road from Coptos to Philoteras - Portus. There are eight of these stations, or Hydreumas, some of which are distant from each other only 6, others from 8 to 12 m.; besides the wells of El Eghayta, which were also known to the ancients. The first station, whose site and plan is less easily traced than the others, was distant from Coptos only 9 m., and was probably common to the Philoteras P. and Berenice roads, though not given in the lists of Pliny or the Itinerary of Antoninus. Breccia Quarries.-Near the large well of Haminmamit, on this road, are the quarries of Breccia Verde, from 383 ROUTE 28.-THEBES TO KOSSAYR. which so many sarcophagi, fonts, tazze, and other ornamental objects made of this beautiful stone, were cut by the ancients, both in Pha- raonic and Roman times. The valley of the quarries is called Wadie Foak- hedr, from the quantity of pottery (fokhdr) found there. It is also re- markable for the number of hiero- glyphic inscriptions on the rocks, of very early time, for the numerous huts of workmen who lived there, and for the remains of a small Egyp- tian temple of the time of Ptolemy Euergetes J. The inscriptions on the rocks are interesting from their anti- quity, some being of very ancient Pharaohs. The principal names are of Papa, or Papi;- of Remeren ;- and three very early Pharaohs, two of which occur in the chamber of kings at Karnak; - of Mantoftep, or Man- d6thph; - Osirtasen I. and III.;- Amun-r'-he I. and II. ;- Thotmes III.; Sethi I. and II. ;-Remeses IV. and VIII. ;-Sabaco, and the Princess Amunatis ;-Psammetichus I. and II; -. Amasis; - Cambyses ;- Darius; - Xerxes; and Artaxerxes; - Amyr- teus (?); and Nectanebo. There are many hieroglyphic and Greek exvotos. In one of the latter the writer is said to be a native of Alabastron; and in one of the former Amun-re is styled "Lord of the re- gions of the world," and Neph (Nou ? or Kneph) is called "the Lord of the foreign land of the Elephant," or the island of Elephantine. Khem or Pan is the deity of the place. He was supposed to be the particular "guar- dian of the roads;" and until the wor- ship of Sarapis was introduced by the Greeks and Romans, he seems to have been the principal god to whom tem- ples and prayers were made in the Egyptian deserts. The triad of this valley consisted of Khem, the infant Horus, and" Isis, the beautiful Mother of the gods, queen of Heaven." I counted upwards of 1000 huts in the different ravines, or branches of the valley; and I have no doubt, from the care taken to break up every quartz vein in the neighbourhood, that the miners were employed, not only in the breccia-quarries, but in searching for gold; and I never re- member to have crossed a vein of quartz in the desert that had not been broken up, doubtless in search of the precious ore. [For the town of Kossayr, or El Kossayr, see end of Section II., Rte. 19, p. 254.] Arrival from India at Kossayr.- Those who enter Egypt by this point generally go direct to Thebes. They may either stop at Karnak or Luxor; but the former is more convenient for seeing the ruins. For the journey across the desert, camel-boxes with moveable trays will be found convenient, as well as a single-poled tent, and small mats, an umbrella lined with a dark-coloured stuff, and gauze spectacles. Colonel Davies, in his 'Hints to Travellers' by this route, justly considers bottled water essential, and adds, "great care should be taken to procure it good, and bottles well cleaned. Supplies such as tea, sugar, wine, soups, tongues, and any preserves, are much better and cheaper in India than in Egypt; a small camp-kit with a few cooking-pots, bedding, mosquito cur- tains, blankets, and some carpets are useful in Egypt." "Camels, for crossing the desert from Kossayr to Ghenne (Keneh) or Luksor, are to be had in plenty, as well as donkeys; stirrups and a mat- trass, or a dromedary-saddle, are very useful for a gentleman; but a lady should bring a side -saddle for a donkey, and panniers for children; and if not done in too great a hurry the desert can be crossed without in- convenience or fatigue. But a lady ought not to do it in less than seven days, which should be told the camel owners before leaving Kossayr, that they may take sufficient beans, &c., for themselves and camels; if not they will make it an excuse to push on." He justly remarks "that it is abso- lutely necessary to keep up deter- mined authority with all Arabs, and particularly with boat and camel men, who make it a rule to try and usurp 384 Sect. IV. ROUTE 28.-ABABDEH DESERT. it. Many people commence with thrashing them at once, but I don't think it advisable or necessary; in- sist on their doing as you wish, and they very soon come into your way." By Arabs, it is as well to observe, that he means Egyptian felldhs, not Arabs of the desert, whom it might cost a man his life to strike. "In regard to boats," he adds, "it is difficult to recommend what plan to pursue; they are generally to be procured at Ieneh, and sometimes at -Luksor, and may be hired for the trip to Cairo. If you write to that place for one, it will cost double or treble, but you will get a better boat. It must be remembered that, though you hire by the month, you pay by the week (by the lunar month), which I mention that people may not be ruffled if they find different customs in different places." The advice is excellent ; but in reality the month should always be rated at thirty days, and the owners of boats should not be allowed to take this, advantage of strangers. Another piece of good advice is, "never to let your servant pay the people; do it on every occa- sion you can yourself, and you will soon find the benefit, and so will the poor people ; give half what your servant would charge, and the three- fingered Arab will kiss the money and your hand with gratitude. Let every man be his own agent, and his business will be done to his satis- faction." The Ababdeh Desert.-The principal roads made by the ancients across this desert were those from Coptos to Berenice, and to Philoteras - Portus, just mentioned; one from Contra- Apollinopolis (opposite Edfoo) to the emerald-mines of Gebel Zabira; and another from Philoteras-Portus, along the sea-coast, to the Leucos-Portus, Nechesia, and Berenice, which con- tinued thence southwards in the direc- tion of Sowikin. There was also one which left the Nile near Contra- Apollinopolis, and, taking a southerly direction, ran probably to the gold- mines (of Gebel Olligee) mentioned [Egypt.] by Agatharcides and other authors, and subsequently by the Shereef Edrisi and Aboolfeda. The roads were generally furnished with stations, built at short intervals, where water could always be obtained, by means of large .wells sunk within them to a great depth, and by supplies preserved in cisterns, frequently in the solid rock. The cisterns were spacious and covered by awnings supported on poles, or pillars of masonry, and were filled as occasion required, for the use of the soldiers quartered there, as well as of those who passed; and hence the name of "Fons,' or " Iy- dreuma." The gold-mines lie some distance to the S. of the Ababdeh desert, in the territory of the Bishardeh. They are, as Edrisi and Aboolfeda observe, "in the land of Begga," the Bisharee coun- try; and, as appears from two of the Arabic funeral inscriptions found by Mr. Bonomi and Linant Bey, were worked in the years 339 A. H. (951 A.D.) and 378 A. H. (989 A D.), the former being the 5th year of the Ca- liph El Motee al Illh, a short time before the arrival of the Fatemites in Egypt; and the other in the 14th year of El Azeez, the second king of the Fatemite dynasty. Certain it is, how- ever, that they were also mined pre- vious to and after that period, though there are no other epitaphs with dates. The stations on the road from Cop- tos to Berenice have a peculiar inte- rest, from being mentioned by Pliny, and the Itinerary of Antoninus. According to Pliny. First Hydreuma, from Coptos .. Second Hydreuma ...... Apollinis .. . .. . .. . Novum Hydreuma ...... (the Hydreuma Vetus being 4 miles off, out of the road) Berenice . .. M.". 32 63 89 49 25 otal in Roman miles 258 U. Egypt. 385 "Cape Nose." This long peninsula or chersonesus, projecting from the Itinerary. Sinus Immundus, is mentioned by M.P. Diodorus, who says its neck was so Phenicon, orn from Coptos .. 27 narrow that boats were sometimes Peniconon carried across it, from the gulf to the Didyme .... .. .... .. 24 open sea. From the end of the cape Afrodito .. .. ......... 20 may be perceived the peak of St. Compasi.. .. .. .. .... 22 John, or the Emerald Isle, Gezeeret Joyis .. .. .. .. .... 33 Zibfrgeh, or Semdrgid, which seems Aristonis ... .... 2.. 25 to be the Oip(wcrs, or serpentine island, Phalacro...... .. .. .. 25 of Diodorus. The inner bay, which Apollonos ........ . 23 constituted the ancient port of Bere- Cabali .. . .. .. 27 nice, is now nearly filled with sand; Cenon Hydreuma .. .. 27 and at low tide its mouth is closed Berenice.. .. ...... .. 18 by a bank, which is then left entirely exposed. The tide rises and falls in Total 271 it about one foot. - The town of Berenice was founded The above distances of one station by Ptolemy Philadelphus, and so to another agree pretty well with the called after his mother. It was of measurements I took in surveying considerable size, compared to its this part of the country for my map rival the Myos Hormos; but its streets of Egypt, which extends to about 30 were not laid out with the same regu- m, S. of Berenice. Besides all those larity, and it was not defended by tlhe stations mentioned in the Itinerary, same kind of fortified wall. The tn intermediate one between Didyme Myos IHormos indeed was very small, and Afrodito is met with, on the and scarcely larger than one of the direct road from Coptos to Berenice, ordinary hydreumas. about 42 m. to the northward of the The houses of Berenice are built of latter. At Afrodito I found a Latin very inferior materials, being merely inscription, on turning over the fallen rude pieces of madrepore, collected lintel of the door, which begins with on the sea-coast, and, as might b4 ia oate, unfortunately erased; and I supposed, their walls are in a very ascertained that the Hydreuma and dilapidated condition. There is a Vicus Apollinis were distinct, standing temple at the end of a street, towards a short distance from each other, in the centre of the town, built of hewn different parts of the valley. The stone, and consisting of three inner Novum and Vetus Hydreuma are the and the same number of outer cham- last stations before reaching Berenice, hers, with a staircase leading to the the latter being out of the road, about summit, the whole ornamented with 4 min. up a valley, sculptures and hieroglyphics in relief. It was dedicated to Sarapis, as ap- Berenice. - Berenice, or Berenice pears from a Greek inscription on a Trofllodytica, stands on a small bay, at small stone I found in one of the the extremity of a deep gulf, according chambers; and in the hieroglyphics to Strabo, called Sinus Immundus, are the names of Tiberius and Trajan. which is formed by the projecting A few figures of the contemplar point of Lepte Extrema, now Cape deities may also be traced, on exca- Nose, erroneously laid down in some vating the lower part, or wherever charts as an island. It is even styled the stone has withstood the action of Gezeereh " island" by the Arabs, who the atmosphere; which has proved call the cape " Ras Banas," from a more prejudicial to its limestone walls shekh buried there, or "Ras Emk- than the saline and nitrous soil that hiet." I believe the sailors give has for ages covered the greater part it the name of Ras el Un;f, or of what now remains. In excavating 886 ROUTTE " 2.- IMIENI]E. Sect. IV. U. Egypt: ROUTE 28.- BERENICE-EMERALD-MINES. the chambers (for I did not attempt those of Berenice, are merely fragments the portico) I found, beside the Greek of madrepore and shapeless pieces of dedication to Sarapis, the head of a stone. Roman emperor, either Trajan or About half-way between them is Adrian, a small fountain, and some another small port, 4 m. to the W. of rude figures, probably exvotos; and which are the lead-mines of Gebel e' since my visit, the officers of one of Rossdss; and a short distance to the the surveying ships resumed the northward, in Wadee Aboo-Raikeh, is excavation and found another in- a small quarry of basanite, worked by scription. the ancients. The road now usually taken from Emerald Mines.-The emerald-mines the Nile to Berenice lies through the are far less interesting than might be Wadde Sakayt the ancient road firom supposed. Some are at the Gebel Coptos to that port passed through Zabira, and others in that neighbour- Wadee Matoolee, and other valleys hood, about the Wadde Sakayt. They that succeed it to the southward. have been successively worked by The modern name of Berenice is the ancient Egyptians, the caliphs, the Sakayt el I.ublee, or "the Southern Memlooks, and Mohammed Ali, but Sakayt." are now abandoned. They lie in A road leads from Berenice to the micaceous schist; and numerous shafts basanite mountain, now Om Kerrebeh, of considerable depth have been ex- passing by some ruined stations, and cavated at the base of the mountain. an ancient village of considerable ex- The largest is at Gebel Zabra, ex- tent; and some distance to the (ast- tending downwards, at an angle of 37', ward of those quarries is the Mons to the distance of about 360 feet, being Pentedactylus, now Gebel Ferfld, 318 in horizontal length, and 215 in whose five cones are still more re- perpendicular depth. markable when seen from Berenice. To the south of Gebel Zabira is At Om Kerrebeh are considerable the extensive village of Sakayt, con- workings of what the ancients called sisting of numerous miners' hits and basanite; a real quarry of which houses; and independent of its mines, I afterwards found near Gebel e' a temple excavated in its rock, and Rossass. some Greek inscriptions, render it pe- On the coast between Berenice and culiarly interesting to the antiquary. Kossayr are the "several ports" men- The name of Sakayt is evidently de- tioned by Pliny, with landmarks to rived from that given to the town in direct small vessels through the old times. A Greek inscription there dangerous coral reefs, whose abrupt speaks of the god Sarapis and the lady discontinuance forms their mouth. Isis of Senskis, or Senskeet. These corresponding openings are In the adjoining valley, called Wadee singular, and are probably owing to Nogrus, which is only separated from the coral insects not working where Wadde Sakayt by a ridge of hills, is the fresh water of the winter torrents another similar village, whose houses runs into the sea, which is the case are better built and on a larger scale, where these ports are found. There with the advantage of a natural reser- are no remains of towns at any of voir, under the neighbouring cliffs, of them, except at Nechesia, and the excellent water. Leucos Portus, the sites of which I It is through this Wadee Sakayt have ascertained; the former in Wa- that the road goes from the Nile to dde e' Nukkaree, the latter known by Berenice. the name of E' Shdona, or, "the ma- Ancient Road fromn Contra-Apolli- gazine." Nechesia has the ruins of a nopolis to the Emerald Mines.--On temple, and a citadel of hewn stone; the road from Contra-Apollinopolis but the Leucos Portus is in a very to the emerald-mines are three sta- dilapidated state; and the materials tions. The first is small, and pre- of which the houses were built, like sents nothing interesting except the s2 387 8LOUTE 29.-THEBES TO ASOUAN. name of king Amun-Totnkh, one of the Stranger kings who came to the throne they usurped after the reign of Amunoph III.; but close to the second is a temple cut in the rock, founded, and dedicated to Amun, by King Sethi I., the father of Remeses the Great. Though small, its sculptures are of a very good style; and in the hall is a curious tablet of hieroglyphics bearing the date of the ninth year of this Pharaoh. The temple consists of a portico supported by four columns, and a hall, with four pillars in the centre, at the end of which are three small cham- bers, or rather niches, each contain- ing three statues. Many visitors have written Greek inscriptions on its walls, most of which are exvotos to Pan : but one is remarkable as being of the soldiers quartered in the fortified station, whose thirteen names are in- scribed on one of the columns of the portico. In a chamber of the station is a block of stone,, bearing an exvoto to "Arsini Philadelphe," the wife of Ptolemy Philadelphus, who founded the town of Berenice, to which this road also led from the upper part of the Thebaid. The third station pre- sents nothing of interest; and be- tween it and the emerald-mines no other ruins occur, though several wells once afforded a supply of water to those who passed on the road. This road, which leaves the Nile nearly opposite Edfoo, is perhaps the best for a visit to the emerald-mines and Berenice, especially as the Abab- deh Arabs live there, who are not to be engaged at Thebes, and other places, to the north. liar language, but they now speak Arabic. The arms of both these tribes are the spear, knife, and sometimes the shield; which they prefer to fire-arms. They are frequently at war with each other; and it is therefore necessary, in going into their desert, to apply to some of their shekhs for protection. But there is little there worthy of a visit; the gold-mines are of no great interest, and it is difficult to obtain permission to see their stronghold, the isolated mountain, called Gebel el Elbeh. ROUTE 29. THEBES TO ASOUAN, THE FIRST CATA- RACT, ELEPHANTINE, SEHAYL, AND FHILE. Miles. Thebes to Esnd (W.) .. .. 32 Esnd to Edfoo (passing by Eileithyias (W.) .. .. 30 Edfoo to Hagar Silsili (E. and W .) .. .. .. .. .. .. 22 Hagar Silsili to Asouan (E.) .. 40 124 (ITV.) On quitting Thebes, the first ruin s worthy of notice are those of Erm ent, the ancient Hermonthis. It was a very old city, founded perhaps before, or about the same time as, Thebes. The discovery of early kings' The Bishardah Tribe of Arabs.-To names at Hermonthis does not, how- the south of the Ababdeh Arabs are ever, give it a positive claim to prior the Bishardlh, who, like the Ababdeh, antiquity, as a monument found 1 y' wear long hair, and have the same Mr. Harris on a rock near Silsilis wild appearance as the Nubians and shows that one of the Enentefs of the many other people of Ethiopia. They 9th dynasty (who were probably Her- have a peculiar language, and call monthites rather than Heracleopolites) themselves descendants of Kooka, who was in an inferior position to the con- was both their god and their ancestor; temporary Thebans of the. 11th (see but they are now Moslems. The above, p. 360), unless, indeed, this Ababdeh also had at one time a pecu- was another Enentef of the same 11th 388 Sect: IV. dynasty, and the immediate successor the other larger temple, long since of Mantoftep I: The burial, too, of entirely destroyed, of which the sub- the Enentefs of the 9th dynasty at struction alone can be traced, the Thebes shows it to have been then of materials having been doubtless used greater importance than Hermonthis. to build the Christian church. On The original large temple has been some of the fragments that remain I long destroyed, and the present one observed the name of Thothmes III.; was only the mammeisi, or "lying-in- and the antiquity of the monuments house," belonging to it, where Reto, of Hermonthis is shown by the name of the second member of the triad of the Se-8nkh-ke-re, found there, with his place, gave birth to Horpi-re, the banner or square title, by Mr. Harris. infant child of that goddess and of He was probably the first king of the Mandoo, It was built by the cele- 11th dynasty. brated Cleopatra, who is there ac- There is also a reservoir cased with companied by Neocesar, or Cmsarion, hewn stone, appertaining to the temple, her son by Julius Casar, and consists the water of which, Wansleb says, was of an exterior court, formed by two used in his time for bleaching linen. rows of columns connected by inter- The same traveller mentions a tradition columnar screens, a small transverse of the people claiming for their town colonnade, serving as a portico, at right the honour of having been the birth- angles with the former, and the naos, place of Moses, with the same gravity which is divided into two chambers. as the natives of Bornoo pretend Ptolemy Neocsar and his mother that their country received its name have both the titles gods Philo- (Bur-ndoh) from being "the country metores, Philopatores; but the offer- of Noah." ings are mostly made by the queen The Christian church dates in the Cleopatra, who is also represented time of the lower empire. It was adoring Basis, the bull of Hermonthis. evidently of considerable size, measur- This sacred animal is found on the ing 75 paces by 33 (about 190 ft. by reverse of the coins of the Hermonthite 85); and from the style of the small nome. Its head is depressed, while portion of the outer wall that still that of Apis on the Memphite coins is remains, and its granite columns, there raised, which may serve as a dis- is little doubt that it was erected after tinguishing mark when the legend Christianity had become the established containing the name of the nome has religion of the country. It has long disappeared. I need scarcely add that been, a ruin, and I hear the small these are of the Roman empire, the temple has recently been destroyed by ancient Egyptians under the Pharaohs the Turks. having no coinage. To the N. of Erment is _6da, and Strabo says that Apollo and Jupiter near it at Galda report speaks of an were both worshipped at Hermonthis, inscription on a tablet supported by and that the bull was also held sacred colossal figures. The best starting- in this city : but by Apollo he doubt- point to it is from Gerf Salhan. less means Mandoo, the principal deity (E.) Tuot, in Coptic Thoubt, the of the place, which derived its name ancient Tuphium, lies on the opposite from him; and Jupiter was the Amun bank, in the district of Selemiah, and of the Thebaid. These are, indeed, is easily distinguished by its lofty mi- the chief deities of Hermonthis. In naret. The only ruins consist of a the sculptures at the back of the naos small temple, probably also a mam- are the cameleopard and several meisi, now nearly concealed by the Typhonian figures; and those of the hovels of the villagers who inhabit the interior are interesting in a mytho- few chambers that remain. On one logical point of view; but their style of the blackened walls I observed is very inferior, and proves that Egyp- the name of Ptolemy Physcon. It pre- tian sculpture had already approached sents little worthy of a visit, and will the era of its downfidl. Near it stood not repay the traveller for the trouble �. Egypt. ROUTE 29.--RUINS OF ERMENT, 389 of an excursion froni the river, unless many of the columns are remarkable he is very much interested in Egyptian for elegance and massive grandeur. It researches. was cleared out to the floor by order of (W.) Crocodilopolis is the next town Mohammed Ali, during his visit to mentioned by Strabo on the W. bank, Esnd in 1842. after Hermonthis. Its site is uncer- Whatever may have been the date tain; but it may have been at the of the inner portion of this temple, the Gebelayn, where the vestiges of an portico merely presents the names of ancient town appear on the hill near- some of the early Caesars; those of est the river; and where I observed Tiberius Claudius Caesar, Germanicus, some grottoes, whose paintings have and Autocrator Cesar Vespasianus, long since been destroyed. occurring in the dedication over the entrance; and those of Trajan, Adrian, (W.) Tofndes is on the site of an and Antoninus, in the interior. Men- ancient town, perhaps Aphroditopolis; tion is also made of Thothmes III., by SAsfoon of Asphinis and in the pain, whom the original temple was perhaps about 2 m. to the NI.W. of Esne, i founded the small temple of E' Dayr (" the On the ceiling is a zodiac, simlar convnt ), luci apear tomar th Onthe ceiling is a zodiac, similar convent "), which appears to mark the to that of Dendera : and upon the pi- position of Chnoubis; though Ptolemy lasters, on either side of the front row seems to place it on the E. bank, 20' S. of columns, are several lines of hiero of Tuphium, and 15' N. of Eileithyias. glyphics, which are interesting from Chnoubis and Chnumis were the same their containing the names of the Egyp- place; as Chnouphis, Noub, or Noum, tian months. were the same god. Extensive mounds sufficiently prove Owing to the depredations of the the size and consequence of ancient Turks, who have removed the stones Latopolis; but no remains are now of this temple to build the manu- visible, except the portico and a stone factory of Esne, little now remains of quay on the E. side. That the latter E' Dayr. is of Roman date may be inferred from It appears to have been founded by the style of the building; and I may the third Ptolemy; but being left in add, in confirmation of this conjecture, an unfinished state, the sculptures were that Mr. Bankes is said to have dis- afterwards completed by Epiphanes, covered a Greek insdription upon it, Augustus, Adrian, and Marcus Au- recording the time of its erection. relius, whose names occurred in dif- Wansleb mentions the tombs of ferent parts of the interior. On the Christian martyrs, who were buried ceiling of the portico was a zodiac. near Esne, and are believed to have (W.) Egdn.-End or Eiana, in Coptic been put to death during the perse- Sne, was known to the Greeks and cutions of Diocletian. But report also Romans by the name of Latopolis, states that the Christians who fled from the worship of the Latus fish, from Meddenet Haboo at the time of which, according to Strabo, shared the Arab invasion, and were overtaken with Minerva the honours of the sanc- and slain at Esne, were buried in the tuary. But the deity who presided same spot. Of all the convents in the over Latopolis was the ram-headed valley of the Nile that of Ammonius Chnouphis or Kneph, as is abundantly at Esud, said to have been erected by proved by the sculptures and dedica- the Empress Helena, in honour of the tions of the portico; which is the only martyrs killed by Diocletian, is reputed portion of the temple now free from the the most ancient. mounds that have accumulated over (E.) Near the village of El Helleh, the whole of the back part, and from on the opposite bank, stood the small the intrusion of modern habitations, town of Contra-Laton, whose site is The imposing style of its architecture marked by a temple of the time of canniot fail to call forth the admiration Cleopatra Cocce and Ptolemy Lathy- of the most indifferent spectator, and rus; but the sculptures were not com- 390 ROUTE 29.-THEB4Ss TO. ASUAN. Sect. IV. U. Ejgpt. ROUTE 29.-NATRON.-HfiERAONPOfLIS. 391 pleted till the reigns of Aurelius and have exceeded 50; the base being Commodus. about 60 ft. square. It was a portico, 23 ft. by 19, with (W.) Four miles farther to the four columns in front, and two in depth, southward is El Kom el ahmar, or beyond which are one central and two "the red mound." It marks the site lateral chambers, the former 10 ft. by of Hieraconpolis, which, as Strabo in- 16; and this last is succeeded by an forms us, was opposite Eileithyias; inner room, probably the sanctuary. and though little now exists of the But from the whole of the back part ancient buildings that once adorned being ruined, its original extent is now the "city of the hawks," the name of doubtful. the first Osirtasea suffices to establish (E.) The subearbonate of soda, their claim to a very remote antiquity. natron, is found in the vicinity of El About half a mile to the eastward of Helleh. The Ababdeh also bring them is an Egyptian fortress of crude from the eastern desert a talcose stone, brick, with the usual double wall, the called hamr, for which there is a great inner one being of considerable height. demand throughout Upper Egypt, It has one entrance between two being peculiarly adapted to the manu- towers. facture of the birdme or earthen vessels In the hills about two-thirds of a for cooking, which have the power of mile to the S.W. of it are some rock- resisting a great degree of heat, and tombs, with hieroglyphics, mentioning are universally used by the peasants. "the land of the Hawks," of which It is the lapis ollaris of the Romans. one person is said to be the "High- The hamr is first pounded and sifted; priest." The name of Thothmes III. and, after being moistened and mixed also occurs there. One of the stones with brickdust, is fashioned with the that covered the pit in this priest's hand, and baked in a kiln heated to a tomb still remains in situ, and on the proper temperature. But they have outer wall are traces of dancing figures not yet become acquainted with thie painted on the stucco. The small process of vitrifying their pottery, for tombs here were perhaps intended for which the Arabs were once so famous; the sacred hawks. In some mounds and the glazed earthenware now used to the E. of the fortress are two small in Egypt is imported from foreign brick arches, 2 ft. 7 in. broad, which countries, appear to be very old; and a quarter of (W.) Seven miles above Esud are a mile to E. of these are the mounds of mounds of an old town, now called the town (with the remains of poly- Kom Ayr. gonal columns of Osirtasen) already (W.) A short distance above El mentioned. Kenin, and about 14 m. from Esnud, Opposite El Kenmin commences the is an ancient quay of hewn stone; but region of sandstone, whose compact I have not been able to discove.r any and even grain induced the ancient townl of consequence in the imme- Egyptians to employ it in the erection diate neighbourhood, to which it is of most of the large buildings in Upper likely to have belonged. Some sup- Egypt. pose it to mark the site of Chnoubis. (E.) A short distance from El Ma- ( W.) Three miles beyond this, and hamid is an isolated rock, which was a short distance from the river, is a quarried at an early period, and on ruined pyramid, called El Kodla. It whose southern side the workmen is built in degrees (as were probably have sculptured a few rude triglyphs. all other pyramids), and is composed of (E.) Between this and El Kab limestone blocks, from the rock on stood a small peripteral temple, which which it stands, of irregular form, and has suffered the fate of all the inter- hewn with little care. Though in a esting ruins of Eileithyias, and whose dilapidated state, 25 tiers still remain, needless destruction necessarily excites and its total height, now reduced to our regret at the ignorance of the about 35 ft., may perhaps originally Turks. ROUTE 29.--THEBES TO ASOUAN. It was surrounded by a peristyle of square pillars, and resembled the temple of Kneph, at Elephantine, in its general plan, and even in the sculp- tures of the interior, where the king was represented offering to the sacred shrine of Re. It was founded by the third Thothmes, and on one of the pillars was the name of Amunoph II., his son and successor. (E.) El Kab is the modern name of Eileithyias, or ELAELOvLas roL, "the city of Lucina." The town was sur- rounded by a large crude-brick wall; and on the S. side was another enclo- sure, furnished with doorways of masonry, which contained the temples, and a reservoir cased with hewn stone. On the E. is an open space of con- siderable extent, also within the walls, which have several spacious staircases, or inclined planes, leading to the para- pet, as usual in the fortified towns of ancient Egypt. The temples were on a small scale, but in their sculptures were the names of Amunoph II., of Remeses the Great, and Pthahmen, as well as of Hakdris of the 29th dynasty; though, from the manner in which the inscriptions had been cut upon the stone, this last name appeared to be older than that of Remeses. Eileithyias was a very old city; the tombs are of the begin- ning of the 18th dynasty; and a tablet was found there by Mr. Stobart of the 4th year 'of Amun - r -he III. (or Moeris) of the 12th dynasty. The names of Tata and Papi, the two first kings of the 6th dynasty, are also found on a rock in the valley. Re shared with Lucina the worship of the city; but most of the dedica- tions, in the sacred buildings that re- main, only present the name of the goddess. The principal ruins now consist of a small isolated chapel or naos, a short distance up the valley to the eastward, dedicated by Remeses II. to Re; a Ptolemaic temple, partly built and partly excavated in the sand- stone rock; and about a mile further to the eastward another isolated ruin, bearing the name and sculptures of Amunoph III. The dimensions of the chapel of Re are only 20 ft. by 16, and it consists of but one chamber. Re is of course the principal divinity; and the Goddess of Justice holds the most conspicuous place among the contem- plar deities. The excavated temple was conse- crated to Lucina by Physcon or Ener- getes II., the courts in front having been built at a later period by Pte- lemy Alexander I.; who, with his mother Cleopatra, added some of the sculptures on the exterior of the sub- terranean chamber. The front court is composed of columns united by in- tercolumnar screens, and opens by a pylon on a staircase of considerable length, having on each side a solid balustrade of masonry; and on the face of the rock, to the E. of the inner court, is a tablet of the time of the second Remeses, who presents an offer- ing to Re and Lucina. On the isolated rock beyond these two temples are the names of Tata and Papi (Apap or Apappus) already mentioned. The temple of Amunoph III. stands about a mile from that of Physcon to the eastward, in the same valley; be- tween two and three miles from the river. And, from the circumstance of these ruins being but little known to travellers who visit El Kab, it may not be amiss to observe that this build- ing bears about 70� east of north from the ruined town of Eileithyias, and that the two above mentioned, lying close to the 1. of the road, may be visited on the way. This temple was also dedicated to the goddess of Eileithyias. It con- sists of a single chamber supported by four columns, measuring 11 paces by 9, with a paved platbform on three sides, and an open area in front, 8 paces by 17, formed by columns and intercolumnar screens; to which the pylon, connected with the body of the temple by a double row of colunms, forms the entrance. The subjects of the interior are mostly offerings made by king Amu- noph to the contemplar deities; and near the door are represented this Pharaoh and his father Thothmes IV. On one of the jambs of the door the 392 Sec. IV. U. Ejypt. ROUTE 29.--EILEITHYIAS, NOW EL KAB. name of king Sethi I. has usurped the plucked up by the roots, was bound in place of his ancestor's prenomen; and sheaves, and carried to the threshing- beyond, on the outside wall, is a tablet floor, where, by means of a wooden of the 41st year of Remeses II., in beam, whose upper extremity was fur- which the fourth son of that Pharaoh, nished with three or four prongs, the a priest of Pthah, is attending his father grain was stripped from the stalks, in the capacity of fan-bearer, which were forcibly drawn through On returning from this ruin, and fol. them. lowing the bed of the valley, nearly Below are the cattle, asses, pigs, and opposite the naos of Remeses, the geo- goats belonging to the deceased, which logist may examine the numerous are brought to be numbered and regis- ponds, on whose brink is found na- tered by his scribes. In another part .tron, or subcarbonate of soda. they weigh the gold, his property; and The most interesting objects at Ei- fowling and fishing scenes, the occupa- leithyias are the grottoes in the tion of salting fish and geese, the wine- mountain to the N. of the ancient press, .boats, a party of guests, the town. procession of the bier, and some sacred The third sculptured tomb to the subjects occupy the remainder of the eastward is the most curious as a chro- wall. nological monument, since it relates From these, and other paintings, we to a captain of the fleet who served find that the Egyptian boats were under Amosis, the first king of the richly coloured, and of considerable 18th dynasty, and his successors- size. They were furnished with at Amunoph I., the three Thothmes, and least twelve or fourteen oars, and, be- Amun-nou-het. sides a spacious cabin, there was suffi- Above it is a large grotto, still in cient room to take on board a chariot good preservation, containing coloured and pair of horses, which we see here drawings relating to agricultural and represented. Such were the painted other occupations of the early Egyp- boats that surprised the Arabs when tians. But the outlines of the figures they invaded the country. and the subjects here detailed, though On the opposite side, the individual so highly praised by many travellers, of the tomb, seated with his wife on a are of a very inferior style, and do not handsome fauteuil, to which a favourite deserve similar encomiums when com- monkey is tied. entertains a party of his fared to those in the private tombs of friends; the men and womefi seated IKoorneh. They are, however, highly apart. Music is introduced, as was interesting, customary at all Egyptian entertain- In the first line of the agricultural ments, but the only instruments here scene, on the western wall, the pea- are the double pipe, clappers, and sants are employed in ploughing and harp. sowing; and from the car which is The greater part of the remaining seen in the field, we are to infer that tombs are very imperfectly preserved; the owner of the land (who is also the but some of them still present a few individual of the tomb) has come to useful hints for the study of Egyptian overlook them at their work. In the chronology. second line they reap wheat and do6ra; Those behind the hill are net worthy the distinction being pointed out by of a visit. their respective heights. In the third is To the S. of the ruins, near the river, the carrying, and tritura, or treading-out are the remains of a stone quay. the ear, which was generally performed (W.) Edfoo. - Edfoo, in Coptic throughout Egypt by means of oxen; Phbhou, or AtbO, is the ancient Apol- and the winnowing, measuring, and linopolis Magna. lhousing the grain. The do6ra or sor- It has two temples, the large one of ghum was not submitted to the same which is on a grand scale, But the process as the wheat, nor was it reaped whole of the interior was long con- by the sickle; but after having been cealed by the houses of thQ modern s3 393 ROUTE 29.-THEBES TO ASOUAN. inhabitants, so that a very small part of it was accessible, through a narro v aperture, and could only be examined with the assistance of a light; in the midst of the imiportunities of the people, who were most troublesome. Thanks to the exertions of M. Mariette it has now been entirely excavated. This grand temple appears to have been chiefly built by Ptolemy Philo- metor, and completed by Physcon or Euergetes II, his brother, by Ptolemy Lathyrus; Alexander, and the son of Auletes. The face of the temple itself, and the portico, have the names of Philometor and Euergetes, and on the abacus of the columns is the oval of Lathyrus, which again occurs, with that of his queen Cleopatra, on the exterior of the area and portico. On the towers of the propylon are the sculptures of Ptolemy, the elder son of Auletes, and his sister "Cleopatra Tryphxna;" Alexander I. having pre- viously completed those of the wall of circuit, enclosing the back part of the temple, where we find his name, with that of his wife Cleopatra. In one compartment are the figure and name of Berenice; and from her presenting an offering alone, we may conclude that this refers to the short reign of the daughter of Lathyrus, after the death of Alexander I.; though the titles "royal wife" and "sister of Alex- ander " would seem to relate to the queen of the second of that name; or to imply that Alexander I. had mar- ried his own sister, who at all events survived him. The small figures at the corner of the western propylon have been added at a later period, and are accompanied by the name of Tiberius Claudius Cesar. The general effect of this grand edifice is exceedingly imposing, and from the state of its preservation it is capable of giving a very good idea of Egyptian temples. It also shows the respective proportion and distribu- tion of the different parts; their ex- terior appearance when entire; and the strength of those formidable citadels; which, while they served as a protec- tion to the town, commanded the re- spect of the inhabitants, and effectually prevented or defeated any attempts of the disaffected to dispute the authority of their priestly rulers. The god Hor-Hat, who is the same as Agathodmmon, so frequently repre- sented by the winged globe, is the deity of Edfoo; and we learn from the small temple (which was one of those buildings attached to the principal edi- fice, called by M. Champollion " mam- meisi, or lying-in chambers"), that Athor, the Egyptian Aphrodite, with the god Hor-Hat, and their son Hor- senet-to, "Horus the support of the world, or "of the two regions (of Egypt)," formed the triad worshipped in this city. But the honours paid to the crocodile by Ombos, Silsilis, and other neighbouring towns, were, if we may believe Strabo, never acknow- ledged by the inhabitants of Apollino- polls. [This grand building has now been completely cleared by M. Mariette, and presents one of the most perfect tem- ples in Egypt, in admirable preserva- tion, and ornamented both within and without with hieroglyphics, sculpture, and painting.] The adytum is sur- rounded by several small chambers, according to the plan adopted in many other large Egyptian temples; and though not of the same early period as many at Thebes and some other places, it is most interesting from the com- pleteness of its plan, and the state of its preservation, giving a good idea of the grand effect of an entire Egyptian temple. It was completed by the Ptolemies, but its original foundation dates in the time of the early Pharaohs; and its sculptures have afforded much valuable information respecting the ancient geography of Egypt. To Mr. Harris we are indebted for the first notice of this subject; and M. Jacques de Rouge has lately published many important results of his examination of the geographical lists at Edfoo, in the ' Rvue Archdologique.' The small temple was erected by Ptolemy Physcon and Lathyrus, and consists of two chambers, with a peri- style of pillars. It had an area in front, which has lately s.ffered from 394 0Sect. IN. U. Eipt i ROUTE 29. -SILSILIS--SANDSTNE QTJARRES. the depredations of the Turkish miners ; though the stones quarried from it still remain unused, a counter order having been received to stop the erec- tion of the manufactory, for which this temple has been so unnecessarily dis- figured. During the winter months numerous geese, teal, and other wild fowl, fre- quent a sort of marsh or lake to the westward of Edfoo; and in a low hill, between 2 and 3 m. to the S.W., ap- pear to be some grottoes, which I did not visit. (E.) At Redesdah are the head- quarters of the Ahabdeh Arabs; and another portion of the tribe is settled at Der6w, above Ombos. (E.) Halfway from Edfoo to Gebel Silsileh is a ruined town on the E. bank, called Booafb, once fortified with a wall flanked by round towers, not of very ancient date, and appa- rently throughout of Arab construc- tion. It may have been the site of Pithom or Toum, the ancient Thmuis; though this should be halfway between Edfoo and Ombos. Thmuis is evi- dently the Tooum of Ptolemy, who places it inland, 14' N. of Ombos, and 25' S. of Eileithyias. Some suppose Thmuis to be the same as Silsilis. Halfway between this fortified place and Tonib is a grotto in the rock. (W.) On the W. bank, opposite Sil- weh, in a ravine called Shut e'Rigel, Mr. Harris discovered the curious tablet representing Mantoftep and an Enentef, already mentioned (p. 360, 388). He also found the names of Amunoph I. and the 1st and 2nd Thothmes; with others of much older date, but much defaced; and at El1 Hosh an inscription beginning with the year 17 of Anmun-A-he II. The hills are here called Gebel Aboo Ghabah. At Heshan to the N. of Silsilis are a stone quay and some quarries; and almost at the N. end of thle hills of Silsilis Mr. Harris found several Greek inscriptions of the time of the Empire ; among which were- EIIAPAOo LIA ANTwoNINOC EKO*AM1N TOYC MEPAAOYC AIOOYO IIHXON IA EIC THN IIYAHN TOY KYPIOY AIOAAw@@ KATIH///XV IACJ@@ and AIOAAOC IIETE f///// APXIMHXANIKOC He also found this record of the rise of the Nile, which refers to the quay : LIA ANTwNINr MECOPH NIAOC EICHAOEN EIC TON OPMON MECOPH IC (E. W.) Hdgar Silsileh; Silsilis.- At Hgar (or Gibel) Silsileh-time "stone," (or "mountain) of the chain " -are extensive quarries of sandstone, from which the blocks used in the greater part of the Egyptian temples were taken. The Arabs account for the modern name by pretending that a tradition records the stoppage of the navigation of the river at this spot by a chain, which the jealousy of a king of the country ordered to be fastened across it. The narrowness of the river, and the appearance of a rock resembling a pillar, to which the chain was thought to have been attached, and the ancient name Silsilis, so similar to the Arabic Silsileh, doubtless gave rise to the tradition; and the Greek Silsilis was itself a corruption of the old Egyptian name, preserved in the Coptic Golgl. The breadth of the Nile here is only 1095 ft. at the narrowest part. (E.) On the eastern side of the Nile, and near the commencement of the quarries, stood the ancient town of Silsilis, of which nothing now le- mains but the substructions of a stone building, probably a temple. On this bank the quarries are very extensive, but less interesting to the antiquary than those on the W.; where, in addi- tion to the quarries themselves, are several curious grottoes and tablets of hieroglyphics, executed in the early time of the Pharaohs of the 18th and 19th dynasties. It is not by the size and extent of the monuments of Upper Egypt alone 895 that we are enabled to judge of the stone strata afforded their share of stupendous works executed by the materials; as may be seen from the ancient Egyptians: these quarries numerous quarries about El Helll, would suffice to prove the character and on the way to Silsilis, though but they bore, were the gigantic ruins of trifling when compared with the ex, Thebes and other cities no longer in tensive ones of this mountain. existence; and safely may we apply The earliest Egyptian edifices were the expression used by Pliny, in speak- principally erected of limestone, which ing of the porphyry quarries, to those continued in use occasionally, even in of Silsilis: "quantislibet molibus em- Upper Egypt, till the commencement dendis sufficiunt lapidicine." of the 18th dynasty, though the Pha (W.) The first grotto to the N. con- raohs of the 12th had already intro- sists of a long corridor, supported by duced the sandstone of Silsilis to build four pillars, cut in the face of the the walls and colonnades of some of rock, on which, as well as on the the larger temples; and its fitness for interior wall, are sculptured several masonry, its durability, and the even- tablets of hieroglyphics, bearing the ness of its grain became so thoroughly names of different kings. It was corn- appreciated by their architects, during -nenced by Horus, the successor of the the 18th and succeeding dynasties, third Amunoph, and the last Pharaoh that it was from that time almost ex- of the 18th dynasty, who has here elusively used in building the menu- commemorated his defeat of the Kush ments of the Thebaid. But as its (Cush, or Ethiopians. He is repre- texture was less suited for the recep- sented in a car, pursuing with bended tion of colour than the smoother lime- bow the flying enemy, who, being stone, they prepared its surface with completely routed, sue for peace. He a coat of calcareous composition which, is then borne in a splendid shrine by while it prevented the stone from im- the Egyptian chiefs, preceded by his bibing an unnecessary quantity of troops, and by captives of the conquered colour, afforded greater facility for the nation; a trumpeter having given the execution of the outlines. The subjects, signal for the procession to march. when sculptured, either in relief or in- Other soldiers are employed in bring- taglio, were again coated with the same ing the prisoners they have captured; substance, to receive the final colour- and in another part the monarch is ing; and the details of the figures and seen receiving the emblem of life from of the other objects could thereby be the god Amun Re. finished with a precision and delicacy There are other tablets of the time in vain to be expected on the rough of Remeses II., of his soli Pthahmen, aid absorbent surface of the sandstone. and of Pthah-men-Se-pthah the last Their paints were mixed with water, king of the 19th dynasty. In an his- and in some cases they can be washed torical point of view they are exceed- off by a wet cloth, as in Belzoni's tomb ingly interesting; particularly from the at Thebes; but in other tombs they mention of assemblies held in the 30th, are often fixed, and sometimes have a 34th, 37th, and 44th years of Remeses varnish over the surface. Theie is, the Great; from the presence of the however, no evidence of any colour name of Isinofri, the queen of Pthah- being mixed with oil, as some have men, being the same as that of his imagined. The reds and yellows were mother the second wife of Remeses; ochre, but the greens and blues were and from their relating to other of the extracted from copper, and though of sons of that conqueror. a most beautiful hue, the quality was These tablets, like similar ones at much coarser than either of the former, Asouan, show that the stones used in or their ivory black. The white is a different . Egyptian buildings were very pure chalk, reduced to an impal- taken from the quarries in their vi- pable powder; and the brown, orange, cinity; but it must be observed that and other compound colours, were sim-. various other parts of the same sand- ply formed by the combination of some 396, COUTE 29.-T1HEBES TO ASOfAN. Sect. IV. U. Egypt. ROUTE 29.-sILSILIS- SANDSTONE QUARRIES. of the above. Owing to their being mixed with water, they necessarily re- quired some protection, even in the dry climate of Egypt, against the contact of rain; and so attentive were the builders to this point, that the inter- stices of the blocks which form the roofs of the temples, independent of their being well fitted together and cemented with a tenacious and com- pact mortar, were covered by an addi- tional piece of stone, let into a groove of about 8 in. in breadth, extending equally on either side of the line of their junction. However the partial showers and occasional storms in Upper Egypt might affect the state of their painted walls, it was not sufficient to injure the stone itself; which still remains in its original state, even after so long a period, except where the damp, arising from earth impregnated with nitre, has penetrated through its gra- nular texture; as is here and there observable near the ground at Me- dednet Thboo, and in other ruins of the Thebaid. But exposure to the external atmosphere, which here ge- nerally affects calcareous substances, was found not to be injurious to the sandstone of Silsilis; and, like its neighbour the granite, it was only inferior to limhestone in one respect, that the latter might remain buried for ages without being corroded by the salts of the earth; a fact with which the Egyptians, from having used it in the substructions of obe- lisks and other granitic monuments, were evidently well acquainted. Beyond the grotto above mentioned are others of smaller dimensions, which have served for sepulchres, and bear the names of the first monarchs of the 18th dynasty : among which I observed those of the first and third Thothmes, and of queen Amun-nouhet, who erected the great obelisks of Karnak. The few sculptures found in them relate to offer- ings to the deceased, and some of the usual subjects of tombs; and on a rock in the vicinity I noticed the name of Mai-rd, or Remai, which is the preno- men of Papi, of the 6th dynasty. To the S. of these again are other tablets and open chapels, of very ele- gant form. They are ornamented with columns, having capitals resembling the bud of the water-plant, surmounted by an elegant Egyptian cornice, and in general style and design they very much resemble one-another. The first, which is much destroyed, was executed during the reign of Sethi I., father of the second Remeses; the next by his son; and the third, which is the most northerly, by Pthahmen, the son and successor of the same Remeses. The subjects of the two last are very similar, and their tablets date in the first year of either monarch. In the chapel of Remeses the king makes offerings to Amunre, Maut, and Khonso (Khons , the Theban triad; and to Re, Pthah, and Hapimoo (the god Nilus); the other contemplar deities being Savak, Man- doo, Osiris, Moui or Hercules, Justice, Tafne, Seb or Saturn, Atmoo or Atum, Khem, Athor, Thoth, Anouke or Yesta, and a few others, whose name and cha- racter are less certain. The headdress of the last-mentioned goddess resem- bles that of one of the Mexican deities, projecting and curving over at the top like an inverted bell. it is supposed to represent a mass of hemp; which was probably an emblem of the Egyptian Vesta. In the principal picture Remeses pre- sents an offering of incense to the The- ban triad, and two vases of wine to Re, Pthah, and the god Nile, who is here treated as the other divinities of Egypt. Indeed it is remarkable that he is only represented in this manner at Silsilis. He usually bears lotus - plants and water-jars, or the various productions of Egypt, among the ornamented de- vises at the bases of the walls in certain parts of the temples, or on the thrones of statues; and he frequently carries the emblems of the different nomes and toparchies of Egypt. Isinofri, the queen of Remeses II., also holds forth two sistra before a curi- ous triad of deities; and at the base of the side walls the god Nilus is again introduced, carrying water-plants and various offerings, the produce of the irrigated land of Egypt. Some small tablets occur at the sideof these chapels; 397 -OUTE 29.-THEBES TO ASOUAN. one of them of the time of Amunoph I., second monarch of the 18th dynasty; others of Pthahmen; and a larger one of Remeses III. offering to Re and Nilus. There is also a tablet of Sheshonk (Shishak), who is introduced by the goddess Maut to Amun, Re, and Pthah, followed by his second son, the high- priest of Amun, who was also a military chief. Savak, the deity of Ombos, with the head of a crocodile, is the presiding god of Silsilis, and his titles of Lord of Om- bos, and Lord of Silsilis, are frequently found alternating in the stelae of these quarries. The blocks cut from the quarries were conveyed on rafts, or boats, to their place of destination, for the erec- tion of the temples. But the large masses of granite, for obelisks and colossi, were not sent by water from Syene; these seem to have been taken by land; and Herodotus, in mention- ing one of the largest blocks ever cut by the Egyptians, says it was conveyed from Elephantine (or rather Syene) by land, during the reign of Amasis, to the vicinity of Sais, and that it em- ployed 2000 men for three years. The particular honour paid to the god Nilus at Silsilis was perhaps con- nected with the transmission of the blocks by water, which were there com- mitted to the charge of the river-god; but it may have originated in the peculiar character of the river itself in that part before the rocks of Silsilis gave way, and transferred the first cataract from Silsilis to Syene. Then indeed the great difference of elevation above and below Silsilis made a far more marked distinction between the Egyptian part of the river and that to the S. than at the present lay b-tween the Nile below Asouan and in Nubia; and though this fact was unknown to Champollion, he with his usual sagacity gave a very similar reason, that the river at Silsilis "sems to make a second entrance into Egypt after having burst through the moun- tains that here oppose its passage, as it forced its way through the granite rocks at the cataract.' In reality the analogy was stronger, as here was ori- ginally its great cataract, and its first entrance into Egypt; and there is rea- son to believe that the most southerly nome of Egypt was originally that of Apollinopolis. (See Mr. Harris's Stan- dards.) If any early records of the rise of the Nile could be found at Silsilis, they might point out the exact period when the rocks gave way; and it would be interesting to find any evidences of the former level of the river immediately above Silsilis. I shall mention this subject more fully in speaking of the cataracts of Asouan and Semneh (pp. 408 and 429). At F rs, to the S. of Silsilis, are said to be the vestiges of a small temple, with the name of Antoninus; and at this place some coffins of burnt clay have been found similar to a few met with at Thebes, made in the form of the body, in two parts, laced together with thongs or string. Farther on to the S., a little before the river turns east- ward towards Ombos, on the W. bank and nearly opposite Maneeha, is a mass of alluvial deposit; and about 1 m. below Ombos is a bed of Egyptian pebbles, with a few fossils, and a curi- ous sandstone concretion. The sand- banks about Ombos, and the island of Mansoordeh, are the resort of numer- ous crocodiles. (E.) fon Ombo, the ancient Ombos, in Coptic Mb6, is about 16 m. from the mountain of the chain. The ruins con- sist of a temple, founded in the reign of Ptoleny Philometor, continued by his brother Physcon (who is intro- duced as usual with his queens, the two Cleopatras), and finished by Au, letes, or Neus Dionduysus; whose oval having been placed at a later period above the Greek inscription of Philo- metor, before the western adytum, led me, on my first journey in 1822, in common with other visitors to this temple, to suppose his hieroglyphic name to be that of a Philometor. I have, however, satisfactorily ascer- tained, by a subsequent examination of the two, that the Greek refers to the original founder, and that, as the hieroglyphics of Auletes have been added long afterwards, those two can 898 Sect. IV. U Egy pt. ROUTE 29.---THE LARGER TEMPLE OF OMBOS. no longer be considered parallel in- scriptions. The Greek is- Yrep packews 117osaeoV Iar Pafo-wXsono Kkeona-paS Trg a& A qg9, Oewv lhoM-ropopv, Kac Tow TOVTW5V T'eKIvIv, Apo-qpec 0e) .eyaX9, AroAAwvL, Kco o vv o OCS eos, 'TOV "'KOV OLcV 'E T' OLPLIO1 Taeo EVOC orefoL KaLL erres cas os anos, evvocag eveKerTv ce, avrovs.. "For the (welfare of) king Ptolemy and queen Cleopatra, his sister, gods Philometore, and their children, the infantry, cavalry, and others (stationed) in the Ombite nome (have erected) the adytum to the great god Aroeris Apollo, and to the contemplar gods, for their benevolence towards them." Savak shared with Aroeris the wor- ship of Ombos, of which he was more particularly the guardian and pro- tecting deity; and his name is always found in the dedications throughout the temple, in conjunction with that of the hawk-headed god. On the under surface of some of the architraves of the portico the figures have been left unfinished, and present a satisfactory specimen of the Egyp- tian mode of drawing them in squares, when the artists began their pictures. A similar arrangement is met with in some of the tombs at Thebes, of the time of the 18th and 19th dynasties; from which it appears that the pro- portions of the human figure differed at various periods. In these last the lower leg, from the plant of the foot to the centre of the knee, occupied six squares in height, and the whole figure to the top of the head 19 squares. At Ombos and in other Ptolemaic build- ings the proportions are somewhat different, and the figure (as in the earliest, or Pyramid, period) is less elongated than in the 18th and 19th dynasties. I must however correct an opinion I held, that it was the usual custom of the Egyptians to portion out all the walls in squares for draw- ing the human figure; and I now per- ceive that this was mostly done for copying from another design, probably of a master; and the unfinished cham- ber in Belzoni's tomb at Thebes shows thlat figures were drawn in red by an inferior hand (without any squares), and then corrected in black by a superior artist, (See above, pp. 353.) The difference in the character of the human figure during the early Pyra- mid age is rather in its breadth com- pared to its height; and it is re- markable that statues were then less conventional, and bore a closer resem- blance to nature, than in later times. The circumstance of this building having a double entrance and two parallel sanctuaries (in which respect, indeed, it is singular among the exist- ing temples of Egypt) was owing to the equal honours therein paid to the two divinities, the god of the temple itself. and the protecting deity of Om- bos; but the appearance of the two winged globes over the exterior of the portico, instead of injuring, rather adds to the effect; nor is the distribution of the parts of the interior deranged by :his unusual innovation. The sanc- tuaries themselves have been destroyed, and the position of the back walls can no longer be traced; but several small chambers in the front of the naos still remain, as well as the greater part of the portico or pronaos. The other ruin, which stands on an artificial platform towering above the river, appears to have been dedicated to the crocodile-headed god, Savak, by Ptolemy Physcon; but the sculp- tures rather require it to have been, as M. Caampollion supposes, an edifice "typifying the birthplace of the young god of the local triad." The grand gateway at the eastern extremity, for it stood at right angles with the other temple, bears the name of Auletes, by whom it was completed. It is, how- ever, now in so ruinous a state, that little can be traced of its original plan; but the pavement is seen in many places, laid upon stone substruc- tions, which extend considerably below it; and some of the walls of the cham- bers composing the interior of the naos are partially preserved. From the frag- ments of columns, whose capitals resem- bled those of the portico of Dendera, we are also enabled to ascertain the site of a grand hall which formed part of the building. The sacred precincts of the temples were surrounded by a -strong crude- brick enclosure, much of which still remains; but from its crumbling ma- 399 terials, and the quantity of sand that semble Nubia, and this peculiarity of h as accumulated about it, the build- character is increased by the appear- ings now appear to stand in a hollow: ance of the water-wheels which occur though, on examination, the level of at short intervals, instead of the pole the area is found not to extend below and bucket. And, being generally the base of the wall. protected from the sun by mats they On the eastern face of this enclosure remind the traveller that he has al- is a stone gateway, dedicated to Savak, ready reached a warmer climate. the Lord of Ombos, which bears the But besides the resemblance of this name of the 3rd Thothmes, and of part of the valley with Nubia, there Amun-nou-het, who erected the great seems to be another connection be- obelisks of Karnak. This satisfactorily tween Ombos and Ethiopia; and there proves that, though the ruins only date is reason to believe that the frontier of after the accession of the Ptolemies, or Egypt was originally at Silsilis, until from about the year B.c. 173 to 60, there the Nile was let down by the giving had previously existed a temple at Om- way of the rocks at that spot; and bos, of the early epoch of the Pharaohs the lists of Egyptian nomes appear to of the 18th dynasty. begin with that of Aphroditopolis below The upper part of this gateway has Silsilis. (See p. 398.) been added by a late Ptolemy, or by On several of the heights are small one of the Cmesars. From the site of towers, particularly on the E. bank; it, belonging as it did to the original and here and there are quarries of temple, we derive one of several proofs sandstone once worked by the ancient that the lowering of the Nile above Egyptians. Silsilis had taken place before the reign About a quarter of the way from of Thothmes; Ombos being built on Ombos to Asouan, some maps mark the old alluvial deposit, which was then Roman ruins on tle E. bank. annually covered by the inundation; (E.) The junction of the sandstone while the river, since that time, has and granite is observed about two- never reached the summit of its banks. thirds of the way from Ombos to The mounds of the town and remains Asouan, in the vicinity of El Khat- of houses extend considerably to the E. taira; from which point the former of this enclosure; and, to judge from continues at intervals to present itself -their appearance, Ombos must have over the syenite, and other primitive suffered by fire, like many other cities beds, as at Asouan and in Nubia. of Upper Egypt. 'IW.) 3 in. S. of this village, and on I observed several rounded stones the W. bank, opposite the N. end of of porphyry, and other primitive sub- the island of Bahredf, is an isolated stances, scattered in different directions hill, in which are a few quarries; and amidst these ruins, which must have near the river are the remains of a been brought from the interior of the staircase, and vestiges of building. eastern desert; but for what purpose (E.) Asouan, Asoodn, or Aswan, the it is difficult to decide, ancient Syene, in Coptic Souan, which (E.) At Derdw, and at Redesidh signifies "the opening ?" lies in lat. nearly opposite Edfoo, are the two 240 5' 30". It presents few ruins of principal abodes of the Ababdeh the ancient city, except some granite Arabs, where they may be engaged for columns of a late date, and the sekos excursions to Berenice, the emerald- of a small temple, with the shattered mines, and other places in the desert. remains of an outer chamber and of a Soon after passing Edfoo the valley portico in front. The only name now of the Nile is confined within very found in this building is of Nero narrow limits, and, though slightly en- (Nerros), but on a former visit I ob- larged in the vicinity of Ombos, the served that of Domitian also. It was mountains again approach the Nile a supposed by late travellers to have little farther to the S. The general contained the well of Strabo, in which features of the country begin to re- the rays of a vertical sun were re- 40 ROUTE 29.-ASOUANBN Sect. IV. ported to fall during the summer sol- eight digits, of a whole cubit. At the stice: a circumstance (says the geo- upper end (but the lower, as it stands grapher) which proves this place "to upside down in the wall) is N, the lie under the tropic, the gnomon at number of the cubit. This differs from mid-day casting no shadow." the cubit of the nilometer at Elephan- But though some excavations have tine, which measures 1 ft. 8"625 in., been carried considerably below the while this is 1 ft. 9 in.; but the divi- pavement, which has been torn up in sions are very irregular. search of the tropical well it was Syene was the place to which Juve- thought to cover, no other results have nal was banished. been, or are likely to be, obtained, The Saracenic wall, whose founda- than that this sekos was a very impro- tion dates at the epoch of the Arab bable site for such an observatory, invasion by Amer, the lieutenant of even if it ever existed; and that Strabo the caliph Omar, still remains on the was strangely misinformed, since the S. side of the old town, beyond which Egyptians themselves could never, in are the numerous tombs, mostly ceno- his time, have imagined this city to lie taphs, of the different shekhs and under the tropic. For they were by no saints of Egypt. On the tombstones means ignorant of astronomy; and which stand towards the southern ex- Syene, even in the age of Hipparchus, tremity of this cemetery are Cufic was known to be very far N. of that inscriptions. line. The belief that Syene was in The epitaphs are of the earlier in- the tropic was very general among the habitants of Asouan, and bear different Romans, and is noticed by Seneca, Lu- dates, from about the commencement can, Pliny, and others. But a well of the 3rd to that of the 15th century would have been a bad kind of obser- of the Hgira. They begin-" In the vatory, if the sun had been really name of God, the clement and merci- vertical; and if Strabo saw the meri- ful," and mention the name and pa- dian sun in a well, this would suffice rentage of the deceased, who is said to disprove its being in the tropic, to have died in the true faith; saying, Pococke supposes the aperture in "I bear witness that there is no deity the roof of this temple to have been but God alone; he has no partner; and for astronomical purposes, but windows that Mohammed is the servant and are common of this form, and in this apostle of God." Some end with the situation, in Egyptian buildings. date, but in others, particularly those The wall projecting into the river, of the earliest epochs, it occurs about opposite the S. end of the modern town, the centre of the inscription. is not, as has been supposed, of Roman, This is supposed to be the place of but of Arab construction, and has appa- martyrs mentioned by Aboolfeda, and rently formed part of a bath. It was often confounded with that of Es'ne. thought by some to have been a bridge. Here, as at Fostat (Old Cairo), is a Aurelius Victor indeed mentions bridges mosk of Amer. It only presents round thrown over the Nile by Probus; but arches, in imitation of the ordinary his authority is of little weight, though Byzantine-Greek, or the Roman, style he flourished within 70 years after the of building, in vogue at the period of death of that emperor. In one of the the Arab invasion; but it is not alto- arches, on the N. side, is a Greek gether improbable that an attentive inscription relating to the rise of the examination of the ancient Saracenic Nile, brought from some other building, remains around this cemetery might There is also a stone built into the wall lead to the discovery of some early to the S. of this, which belonged to a specimens of the pointed arch. nilometer, being part of a scale with 11 The mosk called Gimat (Jamat) lines, or 10 divisions, which measure Belhid has pointed arches, but it ap- 1 ft. 3 in. They are double digits; pears not to be older than 1077 A.D.; and as the cubit consisted of 28 digits, those buildings with the date 400 A.H. this fragment wants four divisions, or or 1010 A.D. have round arches, but RtOUTE 29.-ASOUN. 401 'U" Egypt. ROUTE 29.-ASOUAN--GRANITE QUARRIES. Sect. IV. one of 420 A.H. or 1030 A.D. has both pointed and round. The corbelling of the domes is very simple. A short distance from the cemetery of Asonan is a small bank of that alluvial deposit so frequently seen on the road to Philmhe, which I shall notice in speaking of the course of the Nile (p. 408). In some places small blocks of granite are lying upon its upper surface. The site of the town of Asouan, connected as it is with one end of the cluster of rocks through which the road leads to Philm, and in which the principal granite-quarries are situated bounded on the W. and S. by the cataracts and the channel of Philm, on the E. by an open plain separating it from the range of mountains on that side), may have given rise to the fol- lowing passage of Pliny, which at first sight appears so singular : " Syene, ita vocatur peninsula;" since we find that ancient authors frequently used peninsula and insula in the same sense as our word isolated; and they even applied the term insula to a detached house. But the original site of Syene may really have been on an iland, when the Nile during the inundation ran also to the E. of it, as I shall pre- sently have occasion to show. The most interesting objects in the neighbourhood of Asouan are the granite-quarries; and in one, that lies towards the S.E. of the Arab ceme- tery, is an obelisk, which; having never been entirely detached from the rock, remains in situ in the quarry. The fissure, which gives it the appearance of being broken, was made in it at a later period. It would have been more than 95 ft. in height, and 11 ft. 11 in. in breadth in the largest part; but this last was to have been reduced when finished. An inclined road leads to the summit of the hill to the S.E., and on the descent at the other side was a fallen pillar (now taken away), with a Latin inscription, stating that "new quarries had been discovered in the vicinity of Phil ; that many large pilasters and columns had been hewn from them during the reigns of Severus and Antoninus (Caracalla), and his mother Julia Domna ;" and that "this hill was under the tutelary protection of Jupiter - Hammon - Cenubis (or Kneph), and Juno" (or Satd), the deities of Elephantine. In its original site, on the very hill it mentions, it was an interesting inscription; re- moved to an European museum, how much of that interest is lost! but often does the love of acquisition disregard the satisfaction that others might feel in visiting a local monument. Between this and the river is a large sarcophagus, which, having been broken, was left in the quarry. Besides these, several of the rocks about Asonan bear the evident ap- pearance of having been quarrie d; and the marks of wedges, and the numerous tablets about this town, Elephantine, Philm, and Biggehb, an- nounce the removal of the blocks, and the reign of the Pharaoh by whose orders they were hewn. Many of them are of a date previous to and after the accession of the 18th dynasty, while others bear the names of later monarchs of the 26th, immediately before the invasion of Cambyses; but some merely record the victories of kings over the enemies of Egypt, or the exvotos of pious visitors. It is curious to observe in these quarries the method adopted for cut- ting off the blocks. In somee instances they appear to have used wooden wedges, .as in India, which, b ing firmly driven into holes cut to receive them, along the whole line of the stone, and saturated with water, broke it off by their equal pressure. Indeed, a trench seems to have been cut for this purpose; and the fact of the wedge - holes being frequently seen, where the stone is still unbroken, strongly confirms this conjecture. The rocks about Syene are not, as might be expected, exclusively syenite, but, on the contrary, consist mostly of granite, with some syenite and a little porphyry. The difference be- tween the two former is this-that syenite is composed of felspar, quartz, and hornblende, instead of mica, or solely of felspar and quartz ; and granite of felspar, quartz, and mica. According to some, the ingredients 402 U. Egypt. ROUTE 29.-ISLAND OF ELEPHANTINE. of syenite are quartz, felspar, mica, and hornblende; but the syenite of antiquity, used for statues, was really granite. Indeed, many of the rocks of Syene contain all the four component parts; and, from their differing con- siderably in their proportions, afford a variety of specimens for the collection of a mineralogist. Many of the inhabitants of Asouan are descendants of the garrison left there by Sultan Selim, and have re- tained with the costume and arms the pride of their Turkish ancestors. Many of his soldiers were Bosnians, and I have known some persons there who still retained the distinguishing name of Boshnik. The environs of the town are sandy and barren, producing little else than palms; grain, and almost every kind of provision, being brought, as in Aboolfeda's time, from other parts of the country. But the dates still re- tain the reputation they enjoyed in the days of Strabo; and the palm of Ibreem is cultivated and thrives in the climate of the first cataract. Dates are among the principal exports of Asouan, and senna, charcoal, henneh, wicker baskets; and formerly slaves from the interior, from Abyssinia, and Upper Ethiopia, were sent from thence to different parts of Lower Egypt. Opposite Asouan is the island of Ele- phantine, now called Gezeeret Asouan, and in Nubian Sooan-drtiga, or "the island of Asouan." It is evident that Asouan, or Aswan, is taken from the Coptic or Egyptian name Souan; but, as I have before observed, the Arabs always prefix a vowel to words beginning with S followed by a consonant, as Osyoot, Es'nd, Oshmoonayn, and others; in which the original Egyptian name may be easily traced,- Sioout, Sne, and Shmoun B. Island of Elephantine.-One of the few remaining ruins in Elephantine is a granite gateway of the time of Alex- ander,-the entrance to some edifice now entirely demolished. Near it, to the northward, was the small but in- teresting peripteral temple built by Amunoph IIIL to Kneph or Chnubis, who presided over the inundation, and was particularly adored in the vicinity of the cataracts. Near it I observed a mutilated statue of red granite, and an altar dedicated to "Ammon," whom the Romans confounded with the ram- headed deity Kneph. A Christian ruin stood a little dis- tance to the north, and a short walk to the ,westward was a portion of another interesting temple : but the whole of these were destroyed in 1822 by Mohammed Bey, the Pasha's kehia, to build a pitiful palace at Asouan. The upper chambers of the Nilometer suffered the same fate; but I was in time to observe and copy from the hieroglyphics on their walls the name of the island, which was represented by an elephant. The royal ovals were of a Caesar. Fortunately the lower part, which contains the stair- case that served for the Nilometer, is still preserved. It is evidently the one seen by Strabo, as it contains inscriptions recording several of the inundations, from the reign of Au- gustus to that of L. Septimius Severus. At the ancient landing-place, which had a flight of steps between two walls, near the sycamore-tree to the north of the Nilometer, are two river gods of Roman workmanship, but now nearly buried by the alluvial deposit of the Nile, and much defaced. Elephantine had a garrison in the time of the Romans, as well as in the earlier times of the Persians and Pharaonic monarchs; and it was from this island that the Ionians and Ca- rians, who had accompanied Psam- metichus, were sent forward into Ethiopia, to endeavour to bring back the Egyptian troops who had deserted. The south part of the island is covered with the ruins of old houses, and fragments of pottery, on many of which are Greek inscriptions in the running hand; and the peasants who live there frequently find small bronzes of rams, coins, and other objects of antiquity, in removing the nitre of the mounds which they use for agricul- tural purposes. [Here the traveller first meets with 403 ROUTE 29.-ISLAND OF SEH YL.--CATARACTS. Sect. IV. the Nubian dress, that of young un- married girls being a simple apron of leathern thongs; and here ostrich eugs, spears, clubs, nose-rings, ear- rings, finger-rings, and bracelets of the rudest description are offered for sale. -A. C. S.] Elephantine is now inhabited by Nubians. But I do not suppose it was peopled at a very early period by natives of Ethiopia; nor does the account given by Herodotus, of Cam- byses sending the Ichthyophagi of Elephantine to accompany his spies, imply that they were actually of that country, as he merely states that they were acquainted with the Ethiopian language. Indeed, in another place, he expressly states that the country inhabited by the Ethiopians- com- menced beyond Elephantine to the S. It is, however, not impossible that the modern inhabitants may be partly descended from the Nobate, who, ac- cording to Procopius, were prevailed upon by Diocletian to settle in Ele- phantine; that city and the territory on either bank being granted them, on condition of their protecting the frontier from the incursions of the Blemmyes. Pliny and Procopius agree in giving the name of Philme to this, as well as the .sacred island above the cataract; and the former mentions four of that name, probably Philae, Biggeh, Se- hayl, and Elephantine. But the hiero- glyphics do not support him in this statement, Phile alone having the name of Pailak or Ailak; and this shows that Phil, or Fil, "the Ele- phant," could not be the origin of the word Philam. Besides its temples, the city of Elephantine was adorned with quays and other public edifices on the same grand scale as the sacred island of Philm; and this assertion of Strabo is fully confirmed by the extent and style of the buildings which border the river to the south of the Nilometer. The quay is of Ptolemaic or Roman date, and contains many blocks taken from more ancient monuments. Island of Sehdyl. - Sehdyl is an island, at the northern extremity of the rapids of the first cataract. It is interesting from the number of hiero- glyphic tablets sculptured on the rocks, many of which are of a very early period, before and after the accession of the 18th dynasty. It had also a small temple of Ptolemaic date, now entirely destroyed, except the substruc- tions; and it was here that M. Rtip- pell discovered a very interesting Greek inscription. The island was under the special protection of Satd (Juno), Kneph, and Anodki, or Vesta. The traveller whose intention is merely to visit Philme, without passing the cataract, will save himself some time and much trouble by going as far as this island in his boat, by which the ride to Phile is considerably shortened; nor will he be prevented from seeing all that the excursion from Asouan presents worthy of notice,- which is confined to traces of the old road, the crude brick wall that skirted and protected it, and the singular forms of the granite rocks, which have struck every traveller since and pre- vious to the time of Strabo. This wall was made, like the Gisr el Agods (p. 273), to keep off the marauders of the desert, and was repaired in later, and evidently in less prosperous, times, just before the rule of the Christians was supplanted by that of the Moslems, who no longer required it against the Arabs, and were satisfied to surround the town of Asouan by a wall as their frontier fortress. The 1st Cataract. - The cataract, which is called by the natives E' Shellil, is merely a rapid, formed by the rush of water through a mass of rocks; and its highest fall does not exceed five or six feet. The two last, or southernmost, falls (called bibdn, pl. of bab " door") are the greatest; but they are passable at all times of the year. The boats are towed up by ropes, and now that the passage has been widened, and the people have had so much experience, there is little fear of accidents. There are three individuals who have the office and title of shekh (or Reis) of the cataract; [Ali, Ibra- him, and Suleiman, besides the ex-shekh 404 ROUTE 29.-CATARACTS--PHILE. Hassan, who often interferes, although his work is over. Against the imposi- tions of these men the traveller must be on his guard, as their object is to detain boats three days in the cataract in ascending, with a view to magnify the dangers and difficulties of the passage, and consequently to increase their claims for pay. This is perfectly preposterous, as the ascent may be easily made in six or seven hours, and the descent in two hours. The cata- ract, however, is no despicable barrier, and the manner of warping up a heavy Dahabeeh by stout ropes held in 100 hands, and at times twisted round the rocks, is clever, and a very picturesque sight. The descent of the Great Fall "El Bab" on the crest of a wave between the rocks in the narrow channel is grand, and of course attended with some danger. The dragoman has to make his own bargain with these shekhs, according to the contract; but he can seldom conclude the matter until he has agreed to pay from 151. to 201. for the ascent and descent, bakshish included. These Nubians of the cataract appear to be amphibious. They dash into the boiling waters of the cataract, and seem to enjoy being washed down. Travellers will behold with amaze- ment the clever way in which these men, and even boys, seat themselves on a round log of wood, launch out into the stream, and paddling with either hand, traverse the river, or shoot down the rapids, in an incredibly short space of time. Even the great fall "El Bab" does not deter them, and as the tourist stands on the edge, contem- plating the rush of waters, he sees to his amazement a swarthy Nubian lad dash by on his log with an exultant cry, and then another without a log, apparently standing upright in the rushing waters, and suffering himself to be whirled down in the rushing stream; but who is soon seen emerging with his log from the foot of the fall, and hastening with a cry of " bak- shish " to the admiring and astonished traveller. These logs seem to be the public ferry boats of the locality, and when a pedestrian reaches the river- bank, and wishes to cross over, he soon divests himself of his garments, rolls them into a bundle, which he ties above his head, and thus launches out on a log, "ripse ulterioris amore," and strange indeed is the top-heavy figure he presents. While passing the cataract the screams, yells, and shoutings of 100 Nubians are positively overpowering; all appear to command, none to obey; but the shekhs are most demon- strative, throwing sand into the air as a signal that more hands are required, gesticulating with arms lifted up on high, waving a small flag, or beating time with a rope; and the whole scene is one of great interest when not pro- tracted beyond a reasonable time.- A. C. S.] In going up the cataracts in a boat of 250 ardebs we took nothing out of it, either in going or returning; and it was rowed down the cataracts by four- teen men in two hours from the village of the Shelldl to Asonan. It is worth while remaining in the boat as it passes up the cataract, not only to see it, but to witness the curious scene, and the agility of the people who drag the boat through it. They have an ingenious mode Lof catching fish in traps; and some of them are of great size. In going up, boats pass to the E. of the island of Biggeh, and sometimes in descending to the W. of it. The general fall of the Nile through Egypt, below the cataracts, is about five inches to a mile, which gives about 300 feet from Asouan to Rosetta. Prof. Chaix gives 104*3 metres. Island of Phils.-Philm, known in Arabic by the name of Anas el Wo- godd, stands a short distance above the cataract, about 7 miles from Asouan, and is no less interesting from the subjects contained in its sacred build- ings than for the general effect of the ruins; which, with the scenery of the adjoining island, and the wild rocks of the opposite shore, have deservedly obtained for it the epithet "beautiful." In Greek it was called 4tat, and in Egyptian Pilak, or Ailak, and Ma-n'- lak, "the place of the frontier." Philoe is a strange misnomer. 405 IT. Egypt.; ROUTE 29.-PILmE. The principal building is the temple of Isis, commenced by Ptolemy Phi- ladelphus and Arsino, and completed by succeeding monarchs; among whom are Euergetes I., Philometor, his brother Energetes II., with the two Cleopatras, and Ptolemy the elder son of Auletes. whose name is found in the area and on the towers of the propylon. Many of the sculptures on the exterior are of the later epoch of the Roman emperors, among whom I observed Augustus, Tiberius, Claudius, Domnitian, Nerva, and Trajan. At the lower part of the fagade is a series of figures representing the god Nilus, carrying various emblems, which Mr. Harris, with great discernment, con- clu4ed to be the names of the tow>ns and districts of Egypt-a most im- portant discovery, which has tended to throw much light on the ancient geography of the country, and on the real names of those places. They are found also at Edfoo and other temples. Some of these names occur even on monuments of earlier periods. Mr. Harris published them under the title of "Standards" (derived from their appearance in- the hands of the god), and the subject has since been taken up and ably developed by Dr. Brugsch. On the outer wall of the side temple, to the left as you enter the first area, or court, is an inscription which bears a certain resemblance to that of the Rosetta Stone, and was first noticed by Mr. Salt in 1821. The eastern tower of the second or inner propylon stands on a granite rock, before which has been erected a small chapel: and its face, cut into the form of a tablet, bears a long in- scription of the twenty-fourth year of Euergetes II. A monolithic shrine in the adytum has the ovals of Euergetes and Be- renice; but the only place where his name occurs on the walls of the temple is at the back wall of the portico. Many parts of this building, particularly the portico, though not possessing the chaste and simple style of Pharaonic monuments, are remark- able for lightness and elegance; and from the state of their preservation they convey a good id( a of the effect of colour combined with the details of architecture. Nor are the sculp- tures devoid of interest; and those of the chamber nearly over the western adytum, containing the death and resurrection of Osiris, as well as of the peripteral temple on the left en- tering the area, relating to the birth of Horus, throw great light on 1he study of Egyptian mythology. This youthful deity, with his parents, Isis and Osiris, constituted the triad wor- shipped at Phile. , Among other peculiarities in the distribution of the many parts of the great temple, I ought not to omit the small dark rooms in the wall of the eastern adytum, to which a staircase leads from near the front of that chamber. They have the appearance of being intended either for concealing the sacred treasures of the temple, or for some artifice connected with super- stition, or perhaps with the punish- ment of those who offended the majesty of the priesthood. It would be an endless task to enter into a detailed account of all that Philm offers to the curious train- yeller, or to the Egyptian antiquary; I shall therefore briefly notice the principal objects. The small chapel of Esculapius, near the commence- ment of the eastern corridor, in front of the great temple, satisfactorily decides by its Greek dedication the hieroglyphic name of Ptolemy Epi- phanes; and that of Athor, which stands on the east side, nearly in a line with the front propylon, acquaints us with the fact that this small building was consecrated to the Egyptian Aphrodite, by Physcon or the second Euergetes. Though his hieroglyphic name is the same as that of Philometor, it is evi- dent that Physcon has here, as in many other instances, adopted the prenomen of his brother; and since we find him with the two Cleopatras, his queens, it is plainly proved not to be of Philometor. Physcon seems to have been a great benefactor of Philm; and, as is often the case with a vicious despot, he in- gratiated himself with the priesthood 406 Sect IV. :OUTE 29.-PHIL~. to conceal his real character. It is to him, too, that, the petition of the priests is addressed in the Greek in- scription on the pedestal of the obe- lisk brought to England by Mr. Bankes. The object of this curious document was to prevent so many persons of rank, and public function- aries, visiting the island of Philm, and living at the expense of the priests. It is as follows:- "'To King Ptolemy and Queen Cleopatra his sister, and Queen Cleo- patra his wife, gods Euergetes, wel- fare. We, the priests of Isis, the very great goddess [worshipped] in Abaton and Philme; seeing that those who visit Philme, generals, chiefs, gover- nors of districts in the Thebaid, royal scribes, chiefs of police, and all other functionaries, as well as their soldiers and other attendants, oblige us to provide for them during their stay; the consequence of which is that the temple is impoverished and we run the risk of not having enough for the customary sacrifices and libations of- ferred for you and your children, do therefore pray you, O great gods, if it seem right to you, to order Nume- nius, your cousin and secretary, to write to Lochus, your cousin, and governor of the Thebaid, not to dis- turb us in this manner, and not to allow any other person to do so, and to give us authority to this effect; that we may put up a stela, with an inscription commemorating your be- nificence towards us on this occasion, so that your gracious favour may be recorded for ever; which being done, we, and -the temple of L-is, shall be indebted to you for this, among other favours. Hail." SAbove, on the same pedestal, was painted (probably in gilt letters) the answer to the petition, followed by a copy of the order from the king to Lochus. Little more than half of them remains; but restored by M. Letronne, they read as follows :- "To the priests of Isis in Abaton and Phile, Numenius, cousin ant secretary, and priest of the god Alex- ander, and of the gods Soters, of the gods Adelphi, of the gods Euergetes, of the gods Philopatores, of the gods Epiphanes, of the god Eupator, of the god Philometor, and of the gods Euergetes, greeting. Of the letter written to Lochus, the cousin and general, we place the copy here be- low; and we give you the permission you ask of erecting a stela. Fare ye well. In the year . . . of Panemus, . . of Pachon 26." Order of the king.-" King Pto- lemy, and Queen Cleopatra the sister, and Queen Cleopatra the wife, to Lochus our brother, greeting; of the petition addressed to us by the priests of Isis in Abaton and Phile we place a copy below; and you will do well to order that on no account they be molested in those matters which they have detailed to us. Hail." At the southern extremity of the corridor is another small chapel, de- dicated to Athor by the Nectanebo of the 30th dynasty, who ruled Egypt after the first Persian invasion, and previous to its final reduction by Ochus. And from the principal pylon of the great temple bearing the name of this Pharaoh, it is evident that an ancient edifice formerly stood on the site of the present one, which, having been destroyed by the Persians at the time of the invasion of Ochus, was rebuilt after the accession of the Ptolemies. The hypmthral building on the E. of the island is of the time of the Ptolemies and Cmsars; and from the elongated style of its proportions it appears that the architect had in- tended to add to its effect when seen from the river. Below it is a quay, which extended nearly round the island, whose principal landing-place was at the staircase leading to the arched gate on the E. bank. A short distance behind the gate stands a ruined wall, ornamented with triglyphs and the usual mouldings of the Doric order, evidently of Roman construc- tion. Other detached ruins and traces of buildings are met with amidst the mounds that encumber them; and on the W. side of the temple is a chapel, in which are some interesting sculp- U ffypt. 407 ROUTE, 29.-BIGGEH. tures relating to the Nile, and other subjects; with a series of ovals in the cornice, containing the name of Lucius, Verus, Antoninus, Sebastos, Autocrator, Casar. There are also some Greek and Ethiopian inscrip- tions, The ruin of the temple of Isis is attributed to Justinian. Numerous exvotos are inscribed on the walls of the propylon and other: parts of the great temple, mostly of the time of the Casars, with a few of a Ptolemaic epoch, from one of which last we learn that Auletes, or Neus Dionysus, was called god Philopator and Philadelphus, titles that usually follow his name in hieroglyphics. The crude-brick ruins are mostly of Christian time; and among them may be seen some small pointed arches; similar to those at Medeenet Haboo in Thebes, and in other early Christian villages, which probably date about the time of the Arab invasion in the 7th century A.D. Island of Biggeh.-In the island of Biggeh is a small temple dedicated to Athor, apparently commenced by Energetes I. and completed by Pto- lemy the elder son of Auletes, by Augustus, and by other of the Caesars ; but, from the presence of a red granite statue behind it, there is reason to believe that an older edifice had pre- viously existed here, of the time of a Phliaraoh, either Thothmes III. or Amunoph II. - Among the mounds is a stela of red granite, bearing the name of Amasis, surnamed Neitsi, 4 the son of Neit," or Mierva. The arch, inserted at a late period in the centre of the building, is of Christian date; and it is evident that the early Christians occupied both of these islands, whose temples they con- verted into churches, concealing with a coat of clay or mortar the objects of worship of their pagan predecessors. I will not pretend to say that Philm had not the name of Abaton ; but from an inscription at Biggeh, mentioning "the gods in Abaton and in Philm," it evidently belonged to Biggeh; though it has, at least in one sense, been applied to Philm by Plutarch, who says "it is inaccessible and unapproachable . . . except when the priests go to crown the tomb of Osiris." On the rocks here, as on the road from Asouan to Phile, are numerous inscriptions, mostly of the Pharaons of the 12th, 18th, and 19th dynasties: several of which mention the holy objects of their writers, who came to adore the gods of this district, while others merely present the names of the monarchs themselves. Some relate to the granite blocks cut and removed in their reigns, and others to the vic- tories gained by them over the Ethio- pians, the people of Cush. Similar tablets are of great use in the study of the chronology of that period; nor are those of the later Pharaohs, of the 26th and 28th dynasties, without their share of interest. On the eastern shore, opposite Philm, are some mounds, and the remains of a stela and monolith of granite; the former bearing the name of the 2nd Psammetichus, and conse-, crated to Kneph and Sat6. A little distance to the S. of this are masses of old alluvium deposited there by the Nile before its level was lowered by the fall of the rocks at Silsilis. From its, irregularity, and the sudden depressions in it, I suppose that accident to have happened while the river was high; and it has also the appearance of having been hollowed out by a sudden rush of water from the surface. Its general level is about 28 ft. above the greatest inundation of these days, and that of the highest masses is about 10 ft. more. Standing here, you at once perceive that when the river was at that height it ran straight forward over the plain be- tween the eastern mountains and Asouan; and in order to ascertain this I examined the torrent-bed which now runs through the plain after heavy rain, and found it had made a section of the alluvial deposit, near a large en- closure below the white tomb perched on a rock to the eastward of Asouan. Other remains of this alluvium are found on the road from Asouan to Philm (see p. 398, 400, 429). The 408 Sec. IV. U. Egypt. ROUTE 29.-RocK NEAR PHIL:. 409 river at that time may also have flowed of Philm, is a ruined fortress on the by the other channel through the Cata- crest and slope of the rocks, with racts; and the two streams joined each square and round towers; and on the other some way lower down, near E' S. side is a doorway having a round Shaymeh, where the eastern moun- arch of brick between two round tains approach the Nile, opposite the towers, and leading into a court. It Shekh's Tomb on the western hill, is, probably of Christian time. The called Kobbet El Howa. entrance is on the side " towards The old alluvial deposit may be Ethiopia. traced throughout Ethiopia, high above Such are the principal objects in the reach of the present inundation; the vicinity of the Cataracts, affording I have observed it as far south as the an endless study to the Egyptian Baiodda desert, beyond Gebel Berkel; chronologer and antiquary, and cal- and it probably continues to the S. of culated to claim for it a prominent this, in the parts of the Upper Nile place amongst the most interesting which I have not visited, sites in Egypt. There i's a rock opposite the N. The distance from the Mediterra- end of Philm, remarkable for its ele- nean to the Cataracts is about 732 vated appearance and general form; miles, being 154 to Cairo, and from but there is no reason to suppose that Cairo to Thebes (following the bends any religious idea was attached to it, of the river) 404, and from Thebes to as some have imagined, and much less Asouan 174. Prof. Chaix reckons 1166 that it was Abaton. kilometres from Rosetta to Asonan. On the E. bank, a little to the S.E. Phile, approaching it from the Cataracts. [Egypt.] ( 410 ) SECTION V. NUBIA. PRELIMINARY OBSERVATIONS. a. Conquests of the Egyptians and Romans above Phile and the First Cataract. - b. The Modern Nubians, or Bardbras. ROUTE PAGE ROUTE PAGE 30. Asouan, by Pilm, to Derr .. 413 31. Derr to Aboo-simbel and Wddee Halfa ........423 a. The frontier of ancient Egypt was properly at Philme; but southern Ethiopia was conquered by the Pharaohs of the 12th and 18th dynasties; and, though afterwards partly abandoned, was again included within the limits of the Egyptian territory after the accession of the Ptolemies. Among the early Pharaohs who conquered the country were Osirtasen III. of the 12th dynasty, who fixed the Egyptian frontier at Sdmneh, above the Second Cataract, and invaded the country of the Negroes; and Thothmes I., who left a record of his triumphs over them on a rock opposite Tombos. Amunoph III. built the two temples of Sedinga and Solb ; and Remeses II. began, or at least greatly enlarged, the principal temple at Gebel Berkel, afterwards completed by Tirhaka; and both those kings extended their con- quests far into Africa. The invasion of the Casars, who pushed their conquests under Petronius, prefect of Egypt in the time of Augustus, as far as Napata, was owing to an incursion of the Ethiopians, who had penetrated to Syene, and overwhelmed the garrison stationed there to protect the Egyptian frontier. Napata, the capital of Queen Candace, was, according to Pliny, 870 Roman miles above the Cataracts, and is supposed to be El Berkel of the present day, where pyramids and extensive ruins denote the former existence of an im- portant city. Gebel Berkel was called in hieroglyphics " the Sacred Mountain." Strabo says the Ethiopians above Syeue consisted of the Troglodyte, Blemmyes, Nubs, and Megabari. The Megabari and Blemmyes inhabited the eastern desert, N. of Meroi to the frontiers of Egypt, and were under the dominion of the Ethiopians. The Ichthyophagi lived on the shore of the Red Sea: the Troglodytes from Berenice southwards, between it and the Nile; and the Nube, an African nation, were on the left bank, and inde- pendent of Ethiopia. Pliny says the only cities of Ethiopia found and taken by Petronius, on his march to Napata, were Pselcis, Primis, Aboccis, Phthuris, Camnbusis, Attena, and Stadisis remarkable for its cataract, which, the naturalist says, "deprived the inhabitants of the neighbourhood of their hearing." He then mentions the distances from Syene to Meroe, which some computed at 625 x. P., others at 600, or, according to the observations of Nero's spies, 862, with the following intermediate measurements:- ANCIENT ETHIOPIA-MIODERN NJBIANS. .r. P. From Syene to Hierasycamninon .... .. .... ...... 54 Tama .. ...... ...... ...... 75 the Ethiopian district of Euonymiton .. .... 1.. 120 Acina .... .. ...... .... ...... 54 Pitara.... .... .. .. ...... .... 25 Tergedum (between which two is the island of Gagaudes) .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .... 106 (Parrots, the Sphingian animal, and Cynocephali first seen hereabouts). Napata, a small city .... .. .. .. .. .... 80 Thence to the islandl of Mero5 .. .. .. .. .. 360 Making, instead of 862, a total of .. .. .... 874 -or about 800 English miles. Whether by Sesostris Herodotus means Osirtasen or Remeses II., he is equally Wrong in saying that he was the only Egyptian monarch who ruled in Ethiopia ; as several other Pharaohs not only extended their conquests, but erected temples and other buildings in that country, the remains of which still exist, and that too in Upper Ethiopia. The names of the monarchs found above the second cataract are Osirtasen III. and Thothmes III. at Semneh; Thothmes I. at Tombos; Thothmes III. at Semneh, Dosha, Sai, and opposite Meroi; Thothmes IV. at El Berkel (?); Amunoph III. at Sedinga, Soleb, Berkel (?), Tombos, and Semneh; Atin-re- Bakhan at Soleb; Osirei I. at Dosha; and Remeses II. and Tirhaka at El Berkel. Diodorus, Pliny, and Strabo extend the conquests of Sesostris as far as the vicinity of the modern Berbera, beyond the straits of Bab-el-mandeb. It does not appear that the monarchs after the 18th dynasty continued to extend, or even to maintain, their conquests in this country; and few of them appear to have included Lower Ethiopia, between the first and second cataracts, within the limits of their Egyptian territory. And this circum- stance no doubt led to the remark that Ethiopia was little known before the accession of the Ptolemies : though in fact they only re-extended the frontier a short distance into what is now called Nubia. Elephantine was the frontier in the time of Psammetichus. In Strabo's time Syene was again the frontier, the Romans having, as he observes, "confined the province of Egypt within his former limits." Philm then belonged "in common to the Egyptians and Ethiopians." This did not, however, prevent the Caesars from considering Lower Ethiopia as belonging to them, or from adding to the temples already erected there. b. THE MODERN NUBIANS, OR BARXBRAS. Philm and the cataracts are, as of old, the boundary of Egypt and Nubia. Here commences the country of the Bar6bra, which extends thence to the second cataract at Widee Halfa, and is divided into two districts; that to the N. inhabited by the Kendos or Kensee tribe, the southern portion by the Nooba. They have each their own language; but it is a singular fact that the Kensee, which ceases to be spoken about Dayr and throughout the whole of the Nooba district, is found again above the second cataract. This Nooba tribe may perhaps be connected with the Nobatae mentioned by Procopius; though there is some reason for believing that the name and perhaps the people were known there long before. It is now customary for us to call them all Nubians, as the Arabs comprehend them under the general name of Barabra, and as the Greeks denominated the whole country Ethiopia. In former times, under the Romans, the northern part of Nubia was called T2 Nubia. 411 412 MODERN .NUBIANS, OR BARABRAS. Sect. V. Dodeca Schoenus, which comprehended the space lying between the first cataract (or Phile) and Hierasycaminon, and received from its length the name of "twelve schcenes." The character of the country above Philse differs very much from Egypt, particularly from that part below Eine. The hills are mostly sandstone and granite, and, from their coming very near the river, frequently leave only a narrow strip of soil at the immediate bank, on which the people depend for the scanty supply of corn or other produce grown in the country. It is not therefore surprising that the Nubians are poor; though, from their limited wants and thrifty habits, they do not suffer from the miseries of poverty. The palm-tree, which there produces dates of very superior quality, is to them a great resource, both in the plentiful supply it affords for their own use, anld in the profitable exportation of its fruit to Egypt, where it is highly prized, especially that of the Ibriemee kind, the fruit of which is much larger and of better flavour than that of other palms, and the tree differs in the appearance of its leaves, which are of a finer and softer texture. The Sont, or Mimosa Nilotica, also furnishes articles for export, of great importance to the Nubian, in its gum, pods for tanning, and charcoal; and henneh, senna, baskets, mats,= and a few other things produced or made in Nubia, return a good profit in sending them to Egypt. Nubia justly boasts of one blessing, which is that fleas and bugs will not live there: and the Berberis in Cairo are loud in their com- plaints against these plagues of Egypt. It is not, however, to be supposed that a boat hired-at the Cataracts would necessarily be free from these plagues, or that they cannot be kept alive in a boat during the cold weather : but the fact is not the less certain that Nubia is free from them, and no boat, however dirty, or however careless its inmates, would retain them long during the summer weather. When the Nile is low, the land is irrigated by water-wheels, which are the pride of the Nubian peasant. Even the endless and melancholy creaking of these clumsy machines is a delight to him, which no grease is permitted to diminish, all that he can get being devoted to the shaggy hair of his untur- baned head. For the Nubians, in general, allow the hair of the head to grow long; and seldom shave, or wear a cap, except in the Nooba district, as at Derrn', and a few other places; and though less attentive to his toilette than the long-haired Ababdeh, a well-greased Nubian does not fail to rejoice in his shining shoulders. A. certain portion of land is irrigated by each water-wheel, and the wealth of an individual is estimated by the number of these machines, as in other countries by farms or acres of land; and, as. is reasonable to suppose, in a hot climate like Nubia, they prefer the employment of oxen for thle arduous duty of raising water, to drawing it, like the Egyptian felldh, by the pole and bucket of the shaddof. The consequence of this is, that the tax on water- wheels falls very heavily on the Nubian, who also feels that on date-trees much more than the Egyptian peasant. Hence arises the increased migration of Baribras to Cairo; whither, in spite of a government prohibition, they fly from fhe severely taxed labour of tilling the ground to the more profitable occupa- tion of servants, particularly in the Frank quarter, where higher wages are paid, and where the Nubian is preferred fo the Egyptian for his greater honesty. About 30 or 40 years ago, and even before that time, the Nubians began to be very generally employed in places of trust about the houses of the rich, like the Gallegos in Lisbon; they were always engaged as porters, and the name of "-Berberee" answered to "Le Suisse " in a Parisian mansion. But of late they have greatly increased in numbers, and are taken as house-servants, and even as grooms, an office to which the Egyptian seis of old would have thought it impossible for a Berberee to aspire. That they are more honest than the Egyptians is certain; that they speak the truth more frequently is equally so; but they are sometimes less clean and less acute; though their mental slowness does not seem to interfere with their physical quickness, and their power of running is not surpassed by the most active felldh. Devotedly attached to their country and their countrymen, like the Swiss and other inhabitants of poor districts who seek their fortunes abroad, they always herd together in foreign towns; and one Nubian servant never fails to bring a daily levee of Ethiopians to a Cairene house, pouring forth an unceasing stream of unintelligible words, in a jargon which has obtained for them the name of Bardbra, applied by the Arabs much in the same sense as " Barbaroi" by the Greeks. Brave and independent in character, they differ also in these re- spects from the Egyptians; and in some parts of Nubia, particularly in the Kensee or Kenoos district, their constant feuds keep up a warlike spirit, in which their habit of going about armed enables them frequently to indulge. Those who know how to read and write are in a far greater proportion than in Egypt among the same class; for, with the exception of their chiefs, they have no wealthy or upper orders. But their studies do not seem to induce sobriety, and, like the blacks, they are fond of intoxicating liquors. They extract a brandy and a sort of wine from the date-fruit, as well as soibieh, and bo6dza, a fermented drink made from barley, bread, and many other things, which are found to furnish this imperfect kind of beer; and rum or brandy is a very acceptable present to the Nubian, even more so than the three they so often ask for---soap, oil, and gunpowder. ROUTE 30. ASOUAN (BY PHIL2E) TO DERR, BY WATER (MEASURED FROM VILLAGE TO VILLAGE). Miles. Asouan to Dabod (W. bank) .. 15 ,, Tafa (W.).... .. 22 Kalabshee (W.) .. 01 ,, Gerf Hossayn W.) . 22 ,, Dakkeh (W.) .. .. 102 ,, Koortee (W.) .. .. 9 , Maharrakea (W.) .. 3 ,, Sabdoa (W.) .. .. 193 Derr (E.) and Amada on oppo- posite bank .. .. .....29 1322 The distances given in the Itinerary of Antoninus, from Syene (Asouan) to Hierasycaminon (Maharraka), are cal- culated by land. They are as follow : Contra Syene to Parembole .. ,, Tzitzi .. ,, Taphis .... ,, Talmis .... ,, Tutzis .. Pselcis .. .. S Corte .. .. Hierasycaminon (About 72( Eng. m.) .. .. i.. 16 2 14 8 20 18 4 4 80 Asonan to Maharraka being about 836 m. by water. On the opposite side of the river the Itinerary gives from M.'. Hierasycaminon to Contra Pselcis 11 ,, Contra Talmis 24 , Contra Taphis 10 ,, Philme .. .. 24 ,, Syene .. .. 3 72 --being a difference of eight Roman miles; and Pliny only allows 54 M.P. for the same distance from Syene to Hierasycaminon. Ptolemy omits 'the names of towns between Syene and Pselcis, and merely notices the district itself of Dodeca-schcenus (" on the - E. of which live the Arabs X called Admei"), Philme, and t Hierasycaminon. Opposite Pselcis he places Meta- compso, the Cotra Pselcis of the Itinerary. (W.) Dabod.-Dabdd, or Dabdde, is supposed to be, 2 the Parembole of Anto- ninus. The ruins there conist of a temple, found- ed apparently by A shar- Amun, or Atar-Amun, a monarch of Ethiopia, who was pro- Nubia. ROUTE 30. -ASOVAN TO DERR. 413 414 ROUTE 30.-DABOD.-GERTASSEE. Sect. V. bably the immediate successor of him king. Some distance before the Ergamun, the contemporary of Pto- temple is a stone quay, which had a lemy Philadelphus. (See pp. 23 and staircase leading from the river. 419.) About 2 m. below Dabod is Shaym-t Over the central pylon, in front of el Wah, "the eddy of the Wah," be- it, are the remains of a Greek inscrip- lieved by the natives to communicate tion, bearing , the name of Ptolemy under ground with the Great Oasis. Philometor, with that of his Queen Two days W. of Dabod, and about the Cleopatra. When Mr. Hamilton visited same distance from Asouan and from it, much more remained of the inscrip- Kalabshee, is a small uninhabited tion than when I saw it; and restored, Oasis, called Wah Koorkoo. It abounds it reads as follows :- in dates, and has some wells, but no Yirep PaoAe s IIT-oXqe [atov Ka( pa ao]w- ruins. oeg KXorapae [T-q aSeX I s] Kat y vatKo Between Dabod and Gertassee the ewV Xo[NTo]pWV IatI KaL a[vvaoUs Geot9 Only remains are a wall projecting "For the welfare of King Ptolemy and into the river, marking perhaps the Queen Cleopatra [the sister] and wife, gods site of Tzitzi ; a single column; and 'hilometores, to Isis and the contemplar gods on the opposite bank, at Gamille, the . . ""ruined wall of a temple. On the island The temple was dedicated to Isis, Morgdse are some crude-brick ruins. who, as well as Osiris and her son (W.) At Gertassee is an hyptethral Horus, were principally. worshipped court formed by six columns connected here; Amun being one of the chief I by screens, four having a species of contemplar deities. Augustus and Ti- Egyptian composite capital, common berius added most of the sculptures, to temples of a Ptolemaic and Roman but they were left unfinished, as was era, and the two others surmounted usually the case in the temples of by the heads of Isis, with a shrine Nubia. The main building com- containing an asp. It has no sculp- mences with a portico or area, having ture, except a few figures rudely drawn four columns in front, connected by on one of the columnis on the W. side : intercolumnar screens; a central and but that it belonged to a larger edifice two lateral chambers with a staircase is highly probable, as some substruc- leading to the upper rooms; to which tions may be traced a little distance succeed another central apartment to the S. A short walk from this is a immediately before the adytum, and sandstone quarry, in which are one two side-chambers. On one side of enchorial, and upwards of 50 Greek the portico a wing -has been added at ex-votos. They are mostly of the time, a later period. The three pylons be- of Antoninus Pius, M. Aurelius, and fore the temple follow each other in Severus, in honour of Isis, to whom succession, but not at equal distances; the neighbouring temple was pro- and the whole is enclosed by a wall bably dedicated. Some refer to the of circuit, of which the front pylon works in the quarry, and one of them forms the entrance. mentions the number of stones cut by The adytum is unsculptured, but the writer for the great temple of the two monoliths within it bear the same goddess at Phile. In the centre name of Physcon and Cleopatra; and is a square niche, which may once in the front chamber of the naos is have contained a statue of the goddess; that of the Ethiopian king " Ashar and on either side are busts in high (Atar)-Amun, the ever-living," who in relief, placed within recesses, and evi- some of his nomens is called "the be- dently, from their style, of Roman loved of Isis." Among the few sub- workmanship. The road by which the jects sculptured in the portico are stones were taken from the quarry is Thoth and Hor-Hat engaged in pour- still discernible. ing alternate emblems of life and At the village are the remains of a purity over Tiberius; alluding, I be- large enclosure of stone, on whose N. lieve, to the ceremony of anointing side is a pylon, having a few hiero- ROUTE 30.-WADEE TAFA-KALBSHEE. glyphics, and the figure of a goddess, probably Isis, with a head-dress sur- mounted by the horns and globe. (W) At Wadee Tdfa, or Tdyfee (Taphis), are about fifteen more of these stone enclosures, but on a smaller scale than that 9f Gertassee, being about 22 paces by 18. The position of the stones is singular, each row pre-. senting a crescent or concave surface to the one above it, the stones at the centre being lower than at the angles. In a length of 50 ft. the depression below the horizontal line is 1 ft. 3 in. In one I observed several rooms com- imunicating with each other by door- ways; but the enclosures themselves are quite unconnected, and some at a considerable distance from the rest. They are of Roman date, as the mouldings of the doorway show; but it is difficult to ascertain the use for which they were intended. The stones are rusticated (or rough) in the centre, and smooth at the edges, as in many Roman buildings. There are also the remains of two temples at Taphis, the southernmost of which has been con- verted into a church by the early Christians. On one of the walls is an almanac, supposed to be of the 4th or 5th century. (It has been explained in Gau's ' Monuments of Ethiopia,' p. 25.) Christianity, introduced in the age of Justinian, was the religion of Ethi- opia till a late period (though Edrisi considered it extinct in 1154, except in the desert), since in Wansleb's time, 1673, the churches were still entire, and only closed for want of pastors. Two of the columns of the portico at Taphis are still standing, and on the adjoining wall are some Greek inscriptions and the figures of saints. Behind the portico is a cham- ber, which may have been the adytum. The other is an isolated building, con- sisting of one chamber, with a niche in the back wall. The principal en- trance was between the two columns on the S. side; it had also two other doors, one on the S. and the other on the E. face. In front of the temple I understand that Mr. Hay discovered a sort of quay, with a flight of steps leading down to the river, between two side walls, about the centre of it. The plain of Taphis is strewed with the fragments of cornices and mould- ings, mostly of a late epoch; nor do we meet with any traces of building that can boast a greater antiquity than the time of the Caesars, and much of that which exists is no doubt posterior to the age of Pliny. The scenery here reminds us of the vicinity of Philme; the rocks mostly granite, with some sandstone. Indeed the whole portion of the river from Gerkassee to Kalabshee is very beauti- ful, and here is the narrow pass called El Bab, "the gate," through which the water rushes with great impetuo- sity. Beyond Tafa, on an island, are ruins of a fort, probably of Memlook time, Many of the inhabitants of Tifa employ their time in chasing the ga- zelle, and lead a life which tends but little to their civilization; and, whether from' a spirit of independence, or from a propensity common to a rude state of society, they are constantly engaged in disputes that seldom terminate with- out bloodshed. (W.) Kaldbshee.-At Kaldbshee, Tal- mis, are the ruins of the largest temple in Nubia. It appears to have been built in the reign of Augustus; and though other Caesars, particularly. Ca- ligula, Trajan, and Severus, made con- siderable additions to the sculptures, it was left unfinished. The stones employed in its construction had be- longed to an older edifice, to which it succeeded; and it is highly probable that the original temple was of the early epoch of the third Thothmes, whose name is still traced on a granite statue lying near the quay before the entrance. This extensive building consists of a naos, portico, and area. The naos is divided into three successive cham- bers,-the adytum, a hall supported by two columns, and a third room opening on the portico, which has twelve columns, three in depth and four in breadth, the front row united by screens on either side of the en- trance. The area is terminated by Nubia. 415 416 ROUTE 30.-KALABSHEE (TALMIS) -MANDOULI. SeCt. V. the pyramidal towers of the propylon, beyond which is a pavement, and a staircase leading to the platform of the quay that sustains the bank of the river. The temple is surrounded by two walls of circuit, both of which are joined to the propylon. The space between them is occupied by several chambers, and at the upper extremity is a small building with columns, forming the area to a chapel hewn in the rock. At the N.E. corner is also a small chapel, which belonged to the original temple, and is anterior to the buildings about it; and to the N. is another enclosure of consider- able extent, connected with the outer wall, and two detached doorways. [In sdme parts of the temple the colours are still exceedingly bright, which is probably due to the Cris- tians, who, by covering over the sculptures, paintings, and hierogly- phics with plaster, were the uninten- tional means of preserving much that isinteresting.--A. C. S.] But the sculp- tures throughout the temple are of very inferior style ; nor could the rich- ness of gilding that once covered those at the entrances of the first chambers of the, naos -have compensated for the deficiency of their execution. Its extent, however, claims for it a conspicuous place among the largest monuments dedicated to the deities of Egypt. Mandouli, or, according to the an- cient Egyptians, Malouli, or Merouli, was the deity of Talmis, and it is in his honour that the greater part of the numerous exvotos in the area are inscribed by their pious writers. The most interesting of these in- scriptions is that of " Sileo, king of the Nubadme and of all the Ethio- pians," which records his several de- feats of the Blemmyes; and to judge from his own account, he neither spared the vanquished, nor was scrupulous in celebrating his exploits. He was, no doubt, one of those kings of the Nubade or Nobatm, who, conformably with the treaty originally made be- tween them and Diocletian, continued to protect the frontier from the incur- sions of the Blemmyes. Though the introduction of the numerous inscriptions at Kalibshee, and other places in Nubia, would afford little interest to the general reader, and would perhaps be out of place in a work like the present, I think the flourish of King Silco too curious to be omitted. The Greek of King Silco is not very pure, nor very intelligible; some words appear to be Latin, and some can only be translated by conjecture; I therefore leave the learned reader to adopt the construction I have given them, or to substitute any other he may prefer. 1. Ey0 -:AoXW fPa0-caKOs NoVPawv Kai ,oAmv 2. Ac0Owa. ov -qOov et; TaAgv Kaat Taov araf 1)o eO- 3. Aej r0 a e a Twv Bey wv Kas o eo eSwoKev Loc To 4. v Kya ce T'rWov rpsetv ran eV.,Ko a wraktV K at eKpa- 5. oara ag woe aVTV e cKao9'e v pTaT v- 6. oXehwv ov To ,ev orpwTov axTat eic-qo-a tLVJTOJV] 7. KaL allTOL ifttrai' .e eirovtqa etp-qv-qv fLCTO. alJTeOv 1. Katwaysoocee' ot Ta Et&Ata aviwv a er - O"Te 'Oc TOY 9. OpKOV avTWV We KaXo ettv -cr aOpwnrq ava- XWP-)1V 10. ees Tea aye mep y ov OTe eyeyOVeJLqv Pares- 11. ovK aXOov oes orot UV 'wv akewv Ogad- 12. aka aKporv egrpocrOEv avTwv 13. os yap 0sXOVtKOVO-tv eTe gOVK o aPt av- TovC KaOeoe- 14. vot ecg XW avT eriov es KaT-qtoaV e K Vrapaakovot 15. ey yap ec aTW. epr XeV etis Kat ecO avOc o epo ap elaet 16. erOXeaoa esa Tvwov Xevev ero llptsews 17. evaa at os akotl NovpaSwev av'eaTepv Ethiopn hacretg ami n ahs 18. Xtewpag aTWy Eave eteOVtKlorvrLv eiTe 'I-Os 19. o 8e6o'rOTT v aAewv eOvwsv ot esoveeKovO-rv peT pov 20. OVK aows avTOVS'caea0-qv 1 ets a'Kav et n vdro Hctov 21. eys K at ovn eereKav v~pov aT es TIV Osav avT -v os yap 22. asrotiot ov apwa~, " WV yvvatK.v Kts Ta eratSca avTwsv "I Silco, king of the Nubade and all the Ethiopians, have come to Talmis and Taphis ; once!' two (twice ?) I fought with the Blemyes, acd the deity gave me the victory with the three; once I conquered again and took their cities ; 1 sat down (reposed) with my people at first; once I conquered them and they did me ROUTE 30.--BAYT EL WELLEE. honaur, and I made peace with them, and they swore to me by their idols, and I believed their oath that they were good men; I went away to my upper regions where I became ruler: I was not at all behind the other kings, but even before them: for as to those who contend with me, I do not cease to sit down in (occupy) their country until they have honoured me and besought me, for I am a lion to the lower districts, and to the upper a citadel. I fought with the Blemyes -from Primis and Lelis (?) once, and the other of the Upper Nubadte: I laid waste their country since they will contend with me: the lords of the other nations who contend with me I do not suffer them to sit down in the shade, and only in the sun, and I have not allowed water (to be taken) into their houses, for my servants carry off their women gind children." There was also a Latin inscription (probably of the time of the Antonines), on a stone lying amidst the ruins in the area, but now removed, I believe, to England. It was an acrostic re- cording the name of "Julii Faustini;" but notwithstanding its mention of Apollo, Minerva, and the Muses, was evidently written in defiance of "gods and columns." A short distance from the temple, towards the N.W., are the sandstone quarries, from which the stone used in building its walls was taken; and on the hill behind it are found the scattered bones of mummies. In the village are the remains of walls, and among some fragments there I ob- served a Doric frieze, with ox-heads in the metopes, and a cornice of Roman date. The ancient town stood on the N. and S. of the temple, and extended along the hill towards the Bayt el Wellee, which is strewed with bricks and broken pottery. - It is not without considerable satis- faction that the Egyptian antiquary turns from the coal'se sculptures of the Roman era to the chaste and elegant designs of a Pharaonic age which are met with in the sculptures of Remeses II. at the Bayt el Wellee, "the house of the saint," a small but interesting temple excavated in the rock, and dedicated to Amunre, with Kneph, and AnoikA. It consists of a small inner chamber or adytum; a hall supported by two polygonal columns of -very ancient style, which call to mind the simplicity of the Greek Doric; and an area in front. At the upper end of the hall are two niches, each containing three sitting figures in high relief; and on the walls of the area, outside the hall, are sculptured the victories of Remeses; casts of which are in the British Museum. The sculptures relate to -the wars of this Pharaoh against the Cush or Ethiopians, and the Shori, an Eastern nation, apparently of Arabia Petreea (certainly not the "Bishari"), who, having been previously reduced by the Egyptian monarchs, and made tributary to them, rebelled about this period, and were reconquered by Sethi I. and the second Remeses. On the rt.-hand wall the monarch, seated on a throne under a canopy or shrine, receives the offerings brought by the conquered Ethiopians, preceded by the Prince of Cush, Amunma- tape, who is attended by his two children, and is introduced by the eldest son of the conqueror. Rings and bags of gold, leopard-skins, rich thrones, flabella, elephants" teeth, ostrich-eggs, and other objects, are among the presents placed before him; and a deputation of Ethiopians ad- vances, bringing a lion, oryx, oxen, and gazelles. The lower line com- mences with some Egyptian chiefs, who are followed by the prince of Cush and other Ethiopians, bringing plants of their country, skins, apes, a camelopard, and other animals. Be- yond this is represented the battle and defeat of the enemy. Remeses, mounted in his car, is attended by his two sons, also in chariots, each with his charioteer, who urges the horses to their full speed. The king discharges his arrows on the disorderly troops of the enemy, who betake themselves to the woods. At the upper end of the picture a wounded chief is taken home by his companions. One of his children throws dust on its head in token of sorrow, and another runs to announce the sad news to its mother, who is employed in cooking at a fire lighted on the ground. On the opposite wall is the war against the Shori.; At the upper end, T3 Nubia-. 417 ROUTE 30. -DENDO6R---GERF HOSSYN. which is in reality the termination of The sculptures of Dendo6r are, of the picture, Remeses is seated on a the time of Augustus, in whose reign throne, at whose base is crouched a it appears to have been founded. The lion, his companion in battle. His chief deities were Osiris, Isis, and eldest son brings into his presence a Horus. group of prisoners of that nation; Between El Merdih and Gerf Hos- and in the lower compartment is a siyn in a sandstone pier, but I know of deputation of Egyptian chiefs. Be- no ruins of a town in the neighbourhood. yond this, the conqueror engages in The ruined town of Sabag6ora, single combat with one of the enemy's nearly opposite Gerf Hossiyn, occu- generals, and slhys him with his sword, pies the summit and slope of a hill, in the presence of his son and other near the river, and is famous for the Egyptian officers; and the next com- resistance made there by a desperate partment represents him in his car, in Nubian chief against the troops of the heat of the action, overtaking the Ibrahim Pasha. leader of the hostile army, whom he (W.) Gerf Hossdyn.-Gerf (or Jerf) also despatches with his sword. The Hossayn is the ancient Tutzis; in enemy then fly in all directions to Coptic, Thosh; but from being under their fortified town, which the king the special protection of Pthah, the advances to besiege. Some sue for deity of the place, it was called by peace; while his son, forcing the the Egyptians Pthah-ei, or "the abode gates, strikes terror into the few who of Pthah." The resemblance of the resist. Then trampling on the pros- Coptic name Thosh with Ethaush, trate foe, Remeses seizes and slays signifying, in the same dialect, Ethio- their chiefs; and several others are pia, is rendered peculiarly striking, brought in fetters before him by his from the word Kush (Cush), in the son. old Egyptian language "Ethiopia," Such are the' principal subjects in being retained in the modern name of the area of this temple, which, next to this place, which in Nubian is called Aboo-Simbel, is the most interesting Kish. monument in Nubia. The temple is of the time of Re- Much henneh is grown here. The meses the Great, entirely excavated pounded leaves are exported to Egypt, in the rock, except the portico or area and are used for dyeing the nails and in front. At the upper end of the fingers of women red. It is the KuVrpos adytum are several sitting figures in of the Greeks; and the "cluster of high relief. Other similar statues camphire" (kuphr) in Solomon's occur in the eight niches of the great Song, i. 13, is translated in the LXX. hall, and in the two others within the "f3o'rpvs cvrpov." It is alluded to in area. This area had a row of four Deut. xxi. 12, though 'our translation Osiride figures on either side, and has "pare her nails." It is the Law- four columns in front, but little now sonia spinosa et inermis of Linnaeus. remains of the wall that enclosed it : (W.) Dendodr.-The temple of Den- and the total depth of the excavated dodr stands just within the tropic. It part does not exceed 130 ft. The consists of a portico with two columns Osiride figures in the hall are very in front, two inner chambers, and the badly executed, ill according with the adytum; at the end of which is a sculpture of the second Remeses; nor tablet, with the figure of a goddess, are the statues of the sanctuary of a apparently Isis. In front of the por- style worthy of that era. The deity tico is a pylon, opening on an area en- of the town was Pthah, the creator closed by a low wall, and facing towards and "Lord of Truth;" to whom the the river; and behind the temple is a dedications of the temple were in- small grotto excavated in the sandstone scribed; and Athor, Pasht (the com- rock. It has the Egyptian cornice over panion and "beloved of Pthah '), and the door, and before it is an entrance- Anoiik, each held a conspicuous place pasage built of stone, among the contemplar deities. 418 Sect. V. (W.) At Kostamneh is a doorway, countrymen by the artifices of the with the agathodoemon over it ; and priesthood. After speakinig of the the remains of masonry near the bank. blind obedience paid by the Ethio- Here the Nile is said to be fordable in pians to their laws, the historian May. says, " The most extraordinary thing There are several large stone piers is what relates to the death of their in Nubia, evidently built with far kings. The priests, who superintend more care than any works of the mo- the worship of the gods and the cere- dern inhabitants, which project a long monies of religion in Mieroi, enjoy way into the river, and were evi- such unlimited power that, whenever dently intended as weirs to.keep back they choose, they send a message to the water. One of these is opposite the king, ordering him to die, for that Kostamneh, on the E. bank; but it the gods had given this command, has not been very beneficial to the and no mortal could oppose their will land at the back (N.) of it, which it without being guilty of a crime. They has scooped out by the eddy it has also add other reasons, which would caused, influence a man of weak mind, accus- (W.) Dqkkeh.-Dakkeh is the Pselcis tomed to give way to old custom and of the Itinerary, of Pliny, and of prejudice, and without sufficient sense Ptolemy. Strabo, who calls it Psel- to oppose such unreasonable comn- che, says it was an Ethiopian city in mands. In former times the kings his time; the Romans having given had obeyed the priests, not by com- up all the places south of Phile and puilsion, but out of mere superstition, the cataracts, the natural frontier of until Ergamenes, who ascended the Egypt. It was here that Petronius throne of Ethiopia in the time of the defeated the generals of Candace, and second Ptolemy, a man instructed in then, having taken the city, advanced the sciences and philosophy of Greece, to Primis (Premnis) and to Napata, was bold enough to defy their orders. the capital of the Ethiopian queen. Anid having made a resolution worthy Strabo mentions an island at this of a prince, he repaired with his spot, in which many of the routed troops to a fortress (or high place, enemy, swimming across the river, aawrov), where a golden temple of the took refuge, until they were made pri- Ethiopians stood, and there, having soners by the Romans, who crossed slain all the priests, he abolished the over in boats and rafts. ancient custain, and substituted other Dakkeh has a temple of the time of institutions according to his own will." Ergamun, 'an Ethiopian king, and of Ergamenes was not a man who the Ptolemies and Casars; but ap- mistook the priests for religion, or parehtly built, as well as supposed that belief in the priests sculptured, during different signified belief in the gods. These reigns. The oldest part is 0 he failed not to honour with due re- the central chamber (with s O- spect. He is seen at Dakkeh pre- the doorway in front of it), senting offerings to the different deitics which bears the name of the of the temple, and over one of the Ethiopian monarch, and .* side doors he is styled "son of Neph, was the original adytum. , born of Sate, nursed by Anoik~; " Dr. Lepsius thinks the ori- and on the other side, "son of Osiris, ginal temple was built by 1i born of Isis, nursed by Nephthys." Thothmes III., or even by His royal title and ovals read "king an older king. of men [(1) the hand of Amun, the This Ergamun or Ergamenes, ac- living, chosen of Re], son of the sun cording to Diodorus, was a contem- [(2) Ergamun, everliving, the beloved porary of Ptolemy Philadelphus, and of Iis]."' was remarkable for having been the That any kings should blindly sub- first Ethiopian prince who broke mit to the will of the priesthood to through the rules imposed upon his such an extent as to give up their life Nubia. ROUTE 30.--DAKKEH. 419 420 ROUTE 30.---DAKKEH.-FORTRESS. Sect. V. at their bidding, may appear to us Euergetes II. afterwards built the no less extraordinary than to the portico, as we learn from a mutilated historian who relates it; but it is Greek inscription on the architrave, worthy of remark that a very simiilar accompanied by the hieroglyphic name custom still continues in Ethiopia; of that monarch; and by him the and the expedition sent by Moham- present adytum was probably added. nied Ali, to trace the course and dis- The oval of Augustus likewise occurs cover the sources of the Bahr el Abiad, in the portico, but a great part of this or White Nile, found a tribe of Ethio- building was left unfinished, as is plans on its banks, whose kings, when generally found to be the case with the they feel the approach of death, give Roman and Ptolemaic monuments in notice to their minsters, and are Nubia. strangled to prevent their dying in A large plan of this temple has the commonplace way of nature, like been given by M. Gau, in which an their plebeian subjects. This is cer- endless succession of chambers is laid tainly a state of degradation dis- down around the principal building. graceful even to the most ignorant; But without wishing to detract from but we must modify our censure of the the honours paid by the Egyptians Ethiopians when we recollect how in to Hermes Trismegistus, or from the many more enlightened countries kings merits of the valuable work of M. Gnu, and others have submitted without a it may be doubted whether any au- murmur to the dictation of crafty and thority exists for such complicated ambitious priests, details, and the magnified size of the The same expedition of Mohammed original building. Ali found in another tribe that a corps In the temple of Dakkeh is one of of Amazons formed the body-guard of the many instances of an Egyptian the king, whose palace none but women portico, in antis, which was a mode of were allowed to protect :-a custom building frequently used in Egypt as not without a parallel in Africa ;and a well as in Greece. similar one has been met with on the [Within the sanctuary lies a large western coast. broken block of red granite polished, With regard to the two streams of which may have been a part of the ori- the Nile, I may observe that the ginal shrine.--A. C. S.] Bahr el Azrek, though smaller than The deity of Pselcis was Hermes the Abiad, might be considered the Trismegistus, to whom a considerable real Nile, from its having all the cha- number of Greek exvotos have been raeter of that river, in its alluvial inscribed on the propylon and other deposit and other features; and I am parts of the temple, by officers sta- not certain that it is properly called tioned about Elephantine and Phihe, by us" blue river," azrek really signi- and others who visited Pselcis, prin- fying " black" as well as * blue." cipally in the time of the Caesars. For when the Arabs wish to say He is styled the very great Hermes "dark-" or "jet-black," they use azrek, Pautnouphis. But the name was "blue-" (black), and it appears to be probably Taut-nouphis, which may here put in opposition to abiad, be traced in the hieroglyphics over " white;" though certainly aswed is this deity, Taut-h-pnubs, or Taut-fi- the term commonly used in contra- pnubsho, the "Thoth of Pnubs" or distinction to abiad. "Pnubsho," the Egyptian name of Ptolemy Philopator added to the Pselcis. Heis called in Arabic Hormos sculptures at Dakkeh; and his oval el Moselles, from his "triple" office of occurs with that of his wife and sister "king, prophet, and physician." Arsinoie - his father, Ptolemy Euer- (E.) Opposite Dakkeh, on the E. getes --and his mother, Berenice bank, is a large crude-brick fortress, Euergetes ; and on the corresponding which has some of the chief features side are those of Ptolemy Philadelphus of the Egyptian system of fortifica- and Arslinoe Philadelphe. Physcon or tion. A lofty wall, about 15 ft. thick, ROUnTE 30.-KOOrRTEE-sABOA---AADA. and more than 30 ft. high, encloses of the Ptolemies or Cmsars, with .the a rectangular space, surrounded by a exception bf Ibreem or Primis. ditch, with a scarp on one side, and (W.) Sabdoa. - Sabdoa, so called a counterscarp on the other. The wall from "the lions" (androsphinxes) of has square towers at intervals, but, the dromos, is of the early epoch instead of being as high as the wall, of Remeses the Great. It is all built of they only reach to a certain height, sandstone, with the exception of the like buttresses; those too of the angles adytum, which is excavated in the are placed not on the corner of the rock. The dromos was adorned with wall, but one on each side of it. This eight sphinxes on either side, and last was usual even in forts with large terminated by two statues with sculp- towers. There are also the low wall tured stele at their back; to this in the ditch, parallel to the main succeeded the two pyramidal towers wall; and the long svall running of the propylon; the area, with eight across the ditch at right angles with Osiride figures attached to the pillars, the main wall to enable the besieged supporting the architraves and roofs to rake its face. This last is on the of the lateral corridors; and the inte- E. side. The principal entrance was rior chambers, which are now closed on the N., and from this a moveable by the drifted sand. Amunre and Re bridge was laid over the ditch, resting were the chief deities, and from the halfway on the low wall, which is worship of the god of Thebes the town of stone. At the S.W. corner is the bore the same name as that city- water-gate, protected and approached Amunei, or the "abode of Amun." It by a covert way of stone, and flanked by also worshipped the same triad of a projecting wall. Less than 4 m. to Amunre, Maut, and Khons, or Khonso, the S. are the ruins of a small sand- The natives of the modern village, stone temple, with clustered columns; and of the district around it, are of and on the way, near the village, you Bedouin extraction, and speak Arabic. pass a stone stela of Amun-in-he III., After this the Nooba language begins mentioning his 11th year. On other and continues to be used as far as blocks are the names of Thothmes III. Wadee Halfeh. and a Remeses, and on a lion-headed (E.) The river at Malkeh takes a statue is that of Horus of the 18th considerable bend, and from Korosko dynasty. These doubtless mark the to Derr the direction is about N.N.W., site of Metacompso, which, if Ptolemy which often detains boats for a consi- is correct in placing it opposite Pselcis, derable time. From Korosko the road must be the same as Contra-Pselcis. leads across the desert to the great (W), At Koortee, or Korti, the ancient bend of the Nile at Aboo-HWimed, Corit, and at lMaharraka, or Oofideena, on the way to Shendy and Senndr. the remains are very trifling. At the On the same bank, at a place called former is a stone gateway of a temple, El Khardb, between these two towns, apparently dedicated to Isis, the lady of are said to be some ruins (whence Corte, by Thothmes III. Maharraka is its name); but I have not visited the Hierasycaminon of ancient writers; them. and on a wall there is a rude represen ( W.) A'mada.- At Hassdia is a tation of Isis seated under the sacred small temple called A'mada, which fig-tree, and some other figures of a already existed in the age of the Roman epoch. Near it is an hypaethral third 'Thothmes. The names of his building, apparently of the time of the son Amunoph II., and his grandson Casars, unfihished as usual; and, as Thothmes IV., also occur there; and we learn from a Greek exvoto on one mention is made of Osirtasen III. The of the columns, dedicated to Isis and sculptures are remarkable for the pre- Sarapis. -Like most of the edifices in servation of their colours, for which Nubia, it has been used as a place of they were indebted to the unintentional worship by the early Christians, and aid of the early Christians. Here, as is the last that we find of the time in many other places, they covered Nubia. 421 them with mud and mortar, to con- of the falling captives as hlie is held ceal them from their sight, thus pro- by the victorious monarch. tecting them from the ravages of time. Re was the chief deity of the sanc- Re was the deity of the sanctuary, but tuary, from whom the ancient town Amunre holds a conspicuous place received the name of Ei-Re, " the among the contemplar gods. A portico, abode of the sun;" and we find that a transverse corridor, and three inner this "temple of Remeses" was also chambers, the central one of which is considered under the special protec- the adytum, constitute the whole of this tion of Amunre and of Thoth. Pthah small but elegant temple. [It is. how- likewise held a distinguished place ever, once more nearly buried in sand, among the contemplar gods. This and those who wish to enter it must custom of introducing the divinities of creep on their hands and knees through the neighbouring towns was common a narrow hole leading into the interior, both in Egyptwnd Nubia. The temple is extremely small, the side The temple is cut in the rock, but chambers 5 ft. square, and the larger is of no great size, the total depth 5ft. by 10 ft. But the hieroglyphics being only about 110 ft. Nor are the and sculpture are of remarkable beauty; sculptures of the interior worthy of the drawing excellent, and the painting the era of the Great Remeses, - a good, with the colours quite vivid and remark which equally applies to those fresh.--A. C.S.] . of Sabdoa and Gerf Hossayn. At The district about Derr, on the E. the upper end of the sanctuary is a bank, abounds in date-trees; and be- niche containing four sitting figures. tween that town and Korosko they The name of Derr is derived from reckon 20,000 that are taxed. the "convent" of the old Christian (E.) Derr. - Derr, or Dayr, the inhabitants. It afterwards belonged capital of Nubia, is a short distance to the Kashefs of Sultan Selin, whose to the S. of Hassaia, on the opposite descendants ruled the country till its bank. It is worthy of remark that all reduction by Mohammed Ali, and the temples between the two cataracts, whose family still remains there; except Derr, Ibreem, and Ferayg, are and the chief people of Derr pride situated on the W. side of the Nile; themselves on their Turkish origin, and and, instead of lying on the arable the fair complexion which distinguishes land, are all built on the sandy plain, them from the other Nubians. or hewn in the rock. This was, doubt- [The town -of Derr is entirely com- less, owing to their keeping the small posed of mud hovels, no one of which portion of land they possessed for is superior to those of the villages; cultivation, while the towns and tem- but if the population is really worthy ples occupied what could be of no of the designation "barbarous," and utility to the inhabitants, if the "women and children fly away The temple of Derr is of the time from Europeans in terror," the rule of Remeses the Great, and presents of Egypt has not improved their con- some of the spirited sculptures of that dition, and intercourse with Europeans epoch, though in a very mutilated has had an effect on it which could state. In the area was a battle scene; scarcely be expected.-A. C. S.] but little now remains,- except the imperfect traces of chariots and horses, and some confused figures. On the wall of the temple the king is repre- sented, in the presence of Amunre, slaying the prisoners he has taken, and accompanied by a lion. This calls to mind the account given by Diodorus, of Osymandyas being fol- lowed to war by that animal; and on the opposite side the lion seizes one 422 ROUTE 30.---DERR. Sect. V. Nubia. ROUTE 31.--DERR TO ABOO-SIMBEL-IBREEM. 4 ROUTE 31. DERR TO ABOO-SIMBEL AND WADEE HALFA,. Miles. Ibreem .. .. .. .. .. 131 Aboo-Simbel (W.) .. .. .. 33 Wadee Halfeh (E.) .. .... 40 87 (E.) On the road from Derr to Ibreem, inland, is a grotto cut in the rock, called El Dooknesra, opposite Gattey, with sculptures of old time; and on the W. Bank, at a spot indi- cated in Mr. Scoles's map, above Gezeeret Gattey, is a small tomb, in- land in the desert, cut in a rock of pyramidal form, which bears the name of Remeses V. and his queen Nofre-t- aret, The person of the tomb was one "Poieri, a royal son of Cush" (Ethiopia), who is represented doing homage to the Egyptian Pharaoh. There is also an unsculptured grotto at Gattey, or Gatta, and another at Annayba, but I do not know if the latter has any sculptures. [Here the river becomes very broad, and enormous sandbanks stretch over a large expanse, dividing the river into many narrow channels.-A. C. S.] (E.) lbreem.-lIbreem is situated on a lofty cliff, commanding the river, as well as the road by land, and is the supposed site of Primis Parva. It contains no remains of antiquity, ex- cept part of the ancient wall on the S. side, and a building, apparently also of Roman date, in the interior, towards the N. side. The latter is built of stone, the lower part of large, the upper of small, blocks. Over the door is the Egyptian cornice, and a projecting slab intended for the globe and asps; and in the face of the front wall is a perpendicular recess, similar, to those in Egyptian temples for fixing the flag-staffs on festivals. In front of this is a square pit, and at its mouth lies the capital of a Corinthian column of Roman time. The blocks used in building the outer wall were taken from more ancient monuments. Some of them bear the name of Tirhaka, the Ethiopian king, who ruled Egypt as well as his own country 690 B.C., and whose Ethiopian capital was Napata, now El Berkel. It is probable that the Romans, finding the position of Ibreem so well adapted for the defence of their terri- tories, stationed a garrison there as an advanced post, and that' the wall is a part of their fortified works. It was in later times fixed upon by Sultan Selim as one of the places peculiarly adapted for a permanent station of the troops left by him to keep the Nubians in check; and the descendants of Sultan Selim's Turks remained there till expelled from it by the Memlooks (or Ghooz), on their way to Shendy, in 1811. Strabo, in speaking of the march of Petronius into Ethiopia, mentions a place called Primis, or, as he writes it, Premnis, fortified by nature, where on his return hlie left a garrison of 4(10 men, with provisions for two years, to check the incursions of the Ethiopians; though this may apply to Primis Magna, which was farther to the south (some suppose at Dongola), and not to Primis Parva, or Ibreem. Petronius is not said to have crossed the river immediately after the taking of Pselcis, but to have continued his march across the sandy desert, on the W. side of the Nile; which, Strabo says, was part of the same African plain where Cambyses' army was lost; but he must have crossed the river to reach Primis and attack Napata. Strabo would lead us to suppose that Primis was farther from Pselcis than Ibreem; but his subsequent statement, that Petronius anticipated the march of Candace against Primis, argues in favour of the claims of Ibreem; and this place derives addi- tional interest from such historical associations. The whole passage is curious, as it relates not merely to the country of Candace, but also to the northern part of Ethiopia, and explains the necessity of those precautions adopted in aftertimes by Diocletian, to 423 ROUTE 31.-rBREEM. check the inroads of the Blemmyes and other southern Ethiopians, by making military settlements of Nobatae on the frontier of Egypt. '" The Ethiopians," says Strabo, "taking advantage of the moment when part of the troops under .2Elius Gallus had been withdrawn from Egypt to prosecute the war in Arabia, suddenly attacked the Thebaid, and the garrisons of three cohorts posted at Syene, Elephantine, and Phil, made the inhabitants prisoners, and overthrew the statues of Casar; but Petronius, who had riot quite 10,000 foot and 800 horse, to oppose their army of 30,000, forced them to fly for shelter to Pselcis (now Dakkeh), an Ethiopian city. "He then sent a herald to demand restitution of all they had taken, and the reasons of their hostile attack. They replied that it was in conse- quence of the vexations of the gover- nors; but Petronius, having told them that the country was not ruled by them but by Caesar, and finding, on the expiration of the three days they had asked for deliberation, that he could not obtain satisfaction, advanced towards them and forced them to give battle. They were speedily routed, being ill-disciplined and badly armed, having only large shields covered with raw bulls' hides, and axes, javelins, or swords for their offensive weapons. Some fled to the town, some to the desert, while others swam over to the neighbouring island, there being very few crocodiles in this part, owing to the force of the current. Among them were the generals of Queen Candace, who continued to reign over Ethiopia even in my time. She was a woman of masculine courage, and had lost one eye. "Petronius, passing his troops over the river on rafts and boats, took them all prisoners, and sent them imme- diately to Alexandria : he then ad- vanced upon Pselch8 (Pselcis), and took it, few of the enemy escaping with their lives. From Pselcis, crossing the desert in which the army of Cambyses was overwhelmed in the sands drifted by the wind, he came to Premnis (Primis), a place fortified by nature; and having carried it by assault, he advanced to Napata, the capital of Candace, where her son was then living. She herself was in a neighbouring place, whence she sent messengers to propose peace, and the restoration of the statues and prisoners taken from Syene. But Petronius, regardless of her offers, took Napata, which the prince had abandoned, and razed it to the ground. Thinking that the country beyond would present great difficulties, he returned with his booty ; and having fortified Primis with stronger works, he left a garrison there of 400 men, with provisions for two years. He then returned to Alexandria. Of the captives he brought back, a thousand were sent to Caesar (Augustus), who had lately returned from the Canta- brian war, many of whom died of illness. "Candace in the mean time ad- vanced to attack the garrison of Pri- mis, at the head of many thousand men; but Petronius, having marched to its relief, threw troops into the place before she could invest it, and strengthened all the defences. Can- dace upon this sent messengers to Petronius, who ordered them to go to Caesar; and on their saying they knew not who Caesar was, or where he was to be found, he gave them an escort. On arriving at Samos, they found Casar preparing to go into Syria, and Tiberius ordered to march into Armenia; and, having obtained from him all they wanted, the tribute was even remitted which had been imposed upon them." Pliny also mentions this march of Petronius to Napata, the farthest point he reached being 870 m. P. from Syeue. "The only towns he found on the way were Pselcis, Primis, Aboccis,Phthuris, Cambusis, Attena, and Stadisis," which stood near a very large cataract. Ptolemy places Primis Magna above Napata. The name of Primis may possibly be connected with Papremis, the Egyptian Mars. Primis was also called Rhemnia, Primmis, or Premnis : and, to distinguish it from the other 24 Sect. V. R.OUTE 31.-AB00-SIMBEL. ,town of the same name, it was known as "Primis Parva." In the rock beneath Ibreem are some small painted grottoes, bearing the names of Thothmes I. and III., of Amunoph II., and of Remeses II., of the 18th dynasty, with statues in high relief at their upper end. About half-way from Ibreem to Bostan are a mound and a stela, about 6 ft. high, with hieroglyphics. This spot I believe to be now called Shdbuk. Bostan is the Turkish name for "gar- den," and was probably given it by the soldiers of Sultan Selim. A short way beyond it, at Tosk, Tushka, or Tosko (the Nubian word signifying "three"), are two reefs of rocks, stretching across the Nile, and nearly closing the passage in the month of May, when the river is low. Trey form a complete weir, and would be very dangerous to a boat coming down the stream without a pilot. In Nubia, it is always customary to engage a pilot, on account of these weirs, and the dangerous rocks which occur in different places, and which are rarely met with in any part of the Nile N. of Asouan, except near How.and Shekh Umbinrak. The distance from Ma- harrakah (Hierasycaminon) to Sh6buk agrees very nearly With that given by Pliny from Hierasycaminon to Tama, 75 ai. P., or about 68 miles English. Before reaching Aboo-Simbel you pass the ruins of a Christian church on the W. bank. S(W.) Aboo-Simbel.-At Aboo-Simbel are the most interesting remains met with in Nubia, and, excepting Thebes, throughout the whole valley of the Nile. It has two temples hewn in the grit- stone rock, both of the time of Remeses the Great; which, besides their gran- deur, contain highly-finished sculptures, and throw great light on the history of that conqueror. The small temple was dedicated to Atihor, who is represented in the adytum under the form of the sacred cow, her emblem, which also occurs in the pictures on the wall Her title here is "Lady of Aboshek" (Ab6ocis), the ancient name of Aboo- Simbel; which, being in the country of the Ethiopians, is followed in the hieroglyphics by the sign signifying "foreign land." The fagade is adorned with several statues in prominent re- lief of the king and the deities; and the interior is divided into a hall of six square pillars bearing the head of Athor, a transverse corridor, with a small chamber at each extremity, and an adytum. Among the contemplar dei- ties are Re, Amunre, Isis, and Pthah; and Kneph, Sat4, and Anduki, the triad of the cataracts. The monarch is frequently accompanied by his queen Nofre-ari. The total depth of this exca- vation is about 90 ft. from the door. The exterior of the great temple is remarkable for the most beautiful of all Egyptian colossi. They represent Remeses II. They are seated on thrones attached to the rock, and the faces of some of them, which are fortunately well preserved, evince a beauty of expression, the more striking as it is unlooked for in statues of such dimensions. Their total height is about 66 ft. without the pedestal. The ear measures 3 ft. 5 in.; fore- finger (i. e. to the fork of middle finger), 3 ft.; from inner side of elbow- joint to end of middle finger, 15 ft., &c. An idea may be formed of their height from those at Sydenham, but certainly not of their beauty, backed as they are by glass, instead of rock; and the photograph published by " Gide et Baudry" gives a far better notion of the face. The total height of the fagade of the temple may be between 90 and 100 ft. About 30 years ago Mr. Hay cleared to the base of the two colossi on the S. side of the door. He also exposed to view the curious Greek inscription of the Ionian and Carian soldiers of Psammetichus, first disco- vered by Mr. Bankes and Mr. Salt, as well as some interesting hieroglyphic tablets. That inscription is of very great interest upon several accounts. It appears to have been written by the troops sent by the Egyptian king after the deserters, who are said by Hero- dotus to have left the service of Psam- metichus in the following manner :- "In the reign of Psammetichus &ubi a 425 426 ROUTE 31.--GREAT TEMPLE OF ABOO-SIMIBEL. these troops had been stationed at Elephantine, to protect the country from the Ethiopians; . . . and, having been kept three whole years in gar- rison without being relieved, they re- solved with one accord to desert the king, and go over to the Ethiopians. As soon as this news reached Psam- metichus, he pursued them, and, having overtaken them, he in vain endeavoured by entreaties and every argument to prevail on them not to abandon their country, their gods, their children, and their wives. . . But, deaf to his arguments, they continued their route, and on arriving in Ethiopia they gave themselves up to the king of the country, who rewarded them with the possession of lands belonging to certain refractory Ethiopians, whom they were ordered to expel. They therefore settled there; and the Ethio- pians became more civilised by adopt- ing the customs of these Egyptians." The position of their settlement he places above Meroe, after which city, he says, "you arrive at the country of the Automoles (deserters) in as many days as it took you to go from Elephan- tine to the capital of the Ethiopians. These Automoles are called Asmach; which word translated signifies ' those who stand on the left-hand of the kinig,' and their numbers when they deserted were 240,000." The inscription is in a curious style of Greek, with a rude indication of the long vowels, the more remarkable as it dates more than 100 years before Simonides. The v is B, and the w is 0. It is not quite intelligible; but Col. Leake gives the following version and translation :- BaoXkeo e AOovrovs esr Eeavr vav JaaTLa-Xo (for ov) Tavra sypafiav ro ovv 'a a'Lc, T e o noK e srAe'ov rXOov Se Kepreos KarvrepOevso (for esw o) aoraxro - avrtT akoXAooo o JXerOTra1oTo Ayin'aTroS iS A~ao-ts eypa e Adgeapyov AxosSLkXo[v] Kas Ilekeoos (IeXe o6s) Ovsao[v] "King Psamatichus having come to Ele- phantine, those wo were with Psamatichus, the son of Theocles, wrote this. They sailed, and cam.e to aove Kerkis, to where the river rises, .. ...... the Egyptian Amasis. The writer was Damearchon, the son of Ameebichus, and Pelephus (Pelekos), the son of Udamus." From this it appears that the "king Psamatichus" only went as far as Ele- phantine, and sent his troops after the deserters by the river into Upper Ethiopia; the writer of the first part, who had the same name, being doubt- less a Greek. Besides this inscription are others, written by Greeks who probably visited the place at a later time; as "Theopompus, the son of Plato;" "Ptolemy, the son of Timostratus ;" Ktesibius, Telephus, and others. There are also some Phoenician inscriptions on the same colossus, which is the first on the left as you approach the door of the temple. The grand hallis supported by eight Osiride pillars, and to it succeed a second hall of four square pillars, a corridor, and the adytum, with two side chambers. Eight other rooms open on the grand hall, but they are very irregularly excavated, and some of them have lofty benches projecting from the walls. In the centre of the adytum is an altar, and at the upper end are four statues in relief. The dimensions of the colossi attached to the pillars in the great hall are-from the shoulder to the eldow, 4 ft. 6 in.; from the elbow to the wrist, 4 ft. 3 in.; from the nose to the chin, 8 in.; the ear, 13- in.; the nose, about 10 in.; the face, nearly 2 ft.; and the total height, without the cap and pedestal, 17 ft. 8 in. The principal objects of the interior are the historical subjects relating to the conquests of Remeses II., repre- sented in the great hall. A large tablet, containing the date of his first year, extends over great part of the N. wall; and another between the two last pillars on the opposite side of this hall, of his 35th year, has been added long after the temple was completed. The battle-scenes are very interesting. Among the various subjects are the arks of the Egyptians, which they carried with them in their foreign ex- peditions, and very similar to the one represented at Luxor (p. 372). The subjects on the S. wall are particularly spirited. Sec V. ROUTE 31.-FARAS-WADEE HALFA. Re (the Sun) was the god of the temple and the protector of the place. In a niche over the entrance is a statue of this deity in relief, to whom the king is offering a figure of Truth ; and he is one of the four at the end of the adytum. The Theban -triad also holds a conspicuous place here, as well as Nou or Kneph, Khem, Osiris, and Isis. The total depth of this excavation, from the door, is about 200 ft., without the colossi and slope of the facade; and a short distance to the S. are some hieroglyphic tablets on the rock, bearing the date of the 38th year of the same Remeses. The great temple of Aboo-Simbel was formerly quite closed by the sand that pours down from the hills above. The first person who observed these two interesting monuments was Burck- hardt; and in 1817, Belzoni, Captains Irby and Mangles, and Mr. Beechey, visited them, and resolved on clearing the entrance of the larger temple from the sand. After working eight hours a day for a whole fortnight, with the average heat of the thermometer from 1120 to 1160 Fahr. in the shade, they succeeded in gaining admittance; and, though the sand closed in again, their labours enabled others to penetrate into it without much difficulty. (E.) Nearly opposite Aboo-Simbel is Ferdyg, a small excavated temple, consisting of a hall, supported by four columns, two side chambers or wings, and an adytum. It has the name and sculptures of the successor of Amunoph III., and was dediated to Amunre and Kneph. At a later time it became a Christian church, for which its cruci- form plan was probably thought parti- cularly appropriate. (E.) Close to the S. of Gebel Addeh, on a conical hill called Gebel e' Shems (" hill of the sun"), and a little way above Ferdyg, are some tablets, and a very old tomb in the rock. In a niche is the name of a king, probably one of the Sabacos of the 13th dynasty, who is seated with Anubis, Savak, and Anouki, receiving the adoration of a "royal son' of Oush." The king's prenomen reads Merkere(?). There is also a grotto with an illegible name of a king, and another prince of Cush, or Ethiopia; with other hieroglyphics on the rock having the name of an individual called Thothmes. (W.) Faras, or Farras, on the W. bank, is supposed to be the Phthuris of Pliny; and, from the many sculp- tured blocks and columns there, it is evident that some ancient town existed on that spot; though, judging from the style, they appear to belong to a Roman rather than an Egyptian epoch. A little to the S. is a small grotto with hieroglyphics of the time of Remeses II. ; and in the hills to the westward are some chambers hewn in the rock, with several Coptic inscrip- tions, from one of which, bearing the name of Diocletian, it seems that they served as places of refuge during some of the eaily persecutions of the Chris- tians. To the S.W.,are ruins of baked brick, with stone columns, of the low ages. At Serra are the remains of what was once perhaps a quay; but tlhere are no ruins of any ancient town in the vicinity, though it also lays claim to the site of Phthuris. (W.) Opposite Wadee Halfa are the vestiges of three buildings. One is a simple square of stone without sculp- ture; another has several stone pillars, the walls being of brick; but the third has been ornamented with a number of columns, parts of which still remain. Sufficient, however, still exists to tell us that it was an ancient Egyptian building; and that it was, at least originally, commenced by the 3rd and 4th Thothmes, of the 18th dynasty, and apparently dedicated to Kneph. (W.) The second cataract is a short walk of about 42 m.above Wadee Halfa; for this is the orthography of the name, taken from the coarse grass, or Poa Cynosyroides. It is less interesting than that of Asoudn, but more extensive, being a succession of rapids, which occupy a space of several miles, called Batn el Haggar, "the belly of stone." On the W. bank, just below this rocky bed, is a high cliff, from which there is a fine and commanding view of the falls; and this is the ultima Thule of Egyptian travellers. Indeed, the second cataract is impassable except at one Nubia. 427 ROUTE 31.-SEMNEH. season of the year, during the high Nile; and the same impediments occur at the various rapids above it. [From this cliff, called Abooseer, we enjoy a grand bird's-eye view of the cataract, with its numerous black shin- ing rocks dividing the river into end- leps channels, and the Nile spreading out to a considerable breadth. South- wards is the direction to which you naturally look, and from this elevated cliff you gaze into the extreme distance, amongst the plains of sand and the ranges of hills which stretch away into the horizon, while here and there the Nile may be seen, like a silver thread, running through the dreary waste. Here, as usual, numerous travellers, English, French, Germans, and others, have thought it right to cut their names. The habit may be innocent on the rock of Abooseer, but it is very far from being so on the temples and tombs of Egypt; and it is much to be regretted that this propensity should be indulged in so frequently when it is injurious as well as silly. No sooner is your Dahabieh moored to the shore than preparation for the downward journey begins. The long boom is taken downi, and fixed above the deck, 6 ft. overhead : the great sail is put away, the small sail from the stern is adjusted to the mast, ready for use; the oars are all taken out, and put in place; the punting-poles stowed away; the filterer removed from its accustomed place in the middle of the deck; and many of the deck planks taken out to make room for the rowers' legs. The village of Wadee Halfa consists of a number of mud huts scattered about within a large palm forest, and is not only more picturesque, but appears more comfortable and essentially Oriental, the numerous palms afford- ing admirable shade from the heat of a Nubian sun. The village stands at some Z a mile's distance from the river bank. Close, however, to the water on either shore a large market is held ; and the tents pitched in order; the camels, horses, and ddnkeys tethered close by; huge bales of merchandise, chiefly of senna and dates, arranged in a circle, with the arms pitched in the centre; the fires for cooking, round which sit the swarthy natives, offer a curious picture to those who for the first time witness a scene so illustrative of Southern and African customs.- A. 0. S.] Semneh.-A short day and a half, or about 35 m., beyond Wadee Halfa, are the village and cataract of Semneh, where on either bank is a small but interesting temple of the 3rd Thothmes. That on the eastern side consists of a portico, a hall parallel to it, extend- ing across the whole breadth of the naos, and one large and three small chambers in the back part. It stands in an extensive court or enclosure surrounded by a strong crude-brick wall, commanding the river, which runs below it to the westward. In the portico was the tablet recording the conquests of Amunoph III. (given by the Duke of Northumberland to the British Museum); and on the front of the naos, to which are two entrances, Thothmes III. is making offerings to Totou6n, the god of Semneh, and to Kneph, one of the contemplar deities. The name of Thothmes II. also occurs in the hieroglyphics; and those of Amunoph II. and of the 3rd Osirtasen of the 12th dynasty, an ancestor of Thothmes, are introduced in another part of the temple. That on the western bank, though small, is of a more elegant plan, and has a peristyle, or corridor, supported by pillars on two of its sides; but to cross the river it is necessary to put up with a ruder raft than the pacton, by which Strabo was carried over to Philw, being merely formed of logs of the d6m palm, lashed together, and pushed forward by men who swim behind it. This building only consists of one chamber, about 30 ft. by 11, with an entrance in front, and another on the W. side, opposite whose northern jamb, instead of a square pillar, is a polygonal column, with a line of hieroglyphics, as usual, down its central face. On the pillars king Thothmes III. is repre- sented in company with TotouSn and 428 Sec. V. other deities of the temple; and, what learn that the inundation rose at that is very remarkable, his ancestor Osir- period considerably higher throughout tasen III. is here treated as a god, and Ethiopia than at the present day; and is seen presenting the king with the the highest record of the inundation emblem of life. On the front wall is a in the time of Amun-nI-he is 27 ft. 3 in. tablet in relief, with the name of Ames, above the greatest rise of the Nile at the first, and of Thothmes II., the the present time, which was in 1848. fourth, Pharaoh of the 18th dynasty; It was in 1849-50 that I first ob- and mention is made of the city of served those inscriptions, which had Thebes. But this tablet has been de- already been discovered by Dr. Lep- faced by the hieroglyphics of another sins. I then examined the deposit cut-in intaglio over it, apparently by a of the river from Semneh to beyond ~Remeses. Gebel Berkel, and, having found that At the upper end of the naos is a the inundation in those ages extended sitting statue of gritstone, with the far over the plains in Ethiopia (which emblems of Osiris, intended perhaps are now above the reach of the highest to represent the king Osirtasen. rise of the Nile), it was sufficiently Each temple stands within the obvious that some barrier had given crude-brick walls of a strong fortress, way below Semneh, which had let from which we learn many secrets of down the Nile and occasioned this the Egyptian system of fortification at great change in its level throughout that early period; and an inscribed Ethiopia. Tracing it, therefore, on my tablet at the western fort tells us that return through Nubia, I found, 10o. that this was made the frontier of Egypt the river had formerly run through in the reign of the third Osirtasen. the plain on the east of Asouan (where Here the defences are very remark- a later torrent gave me a section of able; and they present not only the the old deposits of the river); 20o. that lofty walls and square towers of Egyp- the temple of Ombos stood on a plain tian fortresses, but the scarp, ditch, of alluvial soil and 3o. that simi- counterscarp, and glacis, partaking of lar remains of the Nile deposit were the character of more recent works. traceable as far as Silsilis. But they The traces of a stone causeway show continued no farther; and this at once that a road led to the summit of the decided the question respecting the hill on which it stands, and the water- position of the barrier which once gate, in this and in the eastern fort, held up the Nile to that great height proves from its position that these forts which enabled it annually to flood the were intended against an enemy from plains of Ethiopia; and whose disrup- the south, and not against the Shep- tion left those plains unwatered by the herd invaders of Egypt. inundation. Below, on the E. side, falls the The period when this fall of the Nile, through a narrow passage be- rocks at Silsilis took place may be tween the rocks that impede its fixed between the beginning of the course; and just below the platform 18th dynasty and the reign of the on which the eastern temple stands fourth king of the 13th, who mentions are several early hieroglyphic inscrip- the rise of the Nile in his 3rd year tions, recording the rise of the Nile at the western fort of Semneh; or during the reign of Amun-ih-he III., rather the reign of the sixth king of the fifth king of the 12th dynasty-the the 13th, one of the early Sabacos, whose supposed founder of the Labyrinth- statue is found at Argo, that island and the Moeris to whom Egypt was being below the level of the old inun- indebted for the celebrated lake called dation; and as the 18th immediately after him, and other works connected followed the 13th dynasty, it may have with the irrigation of Egypt. From happened about the 17th century B.o. them, too, and from various indica- Fatal as this catastrophe was to the tions of the former level of the Nile, once rich and well-watered plains of to the S. and N. of Semneh, we Ethiopia, which were thus suddenly Nubia. ROUTE 31.-SEMNEH. 429 deprived of the benefits of the annual include the sites of both those ancient inundation, its effect on Egypt was villages. momentary. ,and was confined to the - lands immediately below Silsilis, which were submerged and torn up by the To those who inquire whether they falling mass of water; and this may need pass beyond Philm, I answer explain the singular fact of one of the that Nubia is well worthy of a visit, if most remarkable changes that ever only to witness the unparalleled effect took place in so large a river having of the exterior of Aboo-Simbel. Beyond been unnoticed even in the scanty this there is nothing but the view of annals of Manetho. (See pp. 398, the Second Cataract, which it is as 408, 409.) well to see if the time can be easily The ruins of Semneh are supposed spared. At all events, Aboo-Simbel to mark the site of Tasitia, or of will amply repay the traveller whose Acina; and we may perhaps trace object is to take a rapid glance of in the hieroglyphics the name of the Egyptian architecture; while the anti- ancient town, called in Egyptian To- quary cannot fail to be pleased with tosha; unless this be a general ap- the examination of the historical pic- pellation of the country, including tures in the sculptures of the interior, Semneh, Aboo-Simbel, and their vi- which he will find great satisfaction cinity, and related to the Coptic name in comparing with similar subjects at Ethaush or Ethiopia. If Ptolemy is Thebes. to be trusted, Tasitia was on the west For the ruins above Semneh I refer side of the river, and Pnoups oppo- the reader to Mr. Hoskins's ' Ethio- site it on the east, as he places both pia,' and to M. Caillaud's 'Journey in latitude 22 ; so that Semneh may to Mero8 and its Vicinity.' Colossi of the Plain at Thebes, and Luxor beyond, during the inundation. Sect. V. 430. ROUTE 31.-SEMlNEH. ( 431 ) INDE X. ABA. Aba, site of an old town at, 269. Ababdeh desert, 385. Arabs, 252, 388, 395, 400. Abaton, 407, 408. Abbaside dynasty, 26. Aboo-Azees, mounds at, 271. Abdo-Girgeh, ruins near, 269. To Minieb, 271. Aboo-Honnes, old church at, 287. Abookir, 97. Aboo Mandoor hill, near Rosetta, 98. Abooroash, pyramid of, 182. Aboozabel colleges and schools, 154. Aboos6er mounds, 2o10, 266. Aboos~er, pyramids of, 183. Aboo-Simbel, interesting remains at, 425. Ruins of a Christian church in the vicinity of, 425. Abooteeg, 300oo. Abydus, road to,- 309. Description of, 310. Roads from, to the Great Oasis, 311. Abyssinian primate sent in chains, 228. Acanthus grove near Abydus, 309, 311. Acanthus groves near Mudmur, 299. Acanthus groves in the neighbourhood of Sak- kAra, 186. City of, 186, 189, 190, 265. Acoris, 274. Aila, 205. Akhmim, or Ekhmim, 305. Akhsheed dynasty, 29., Alabaster quarry, 69, 253, 278, 291, 292, 301. Alabastron, 278, 291. Alexander, tomb of, 8st. ALEXANDRIA, 67. Custom-house- Cawas- Donkey-drivers, 69. Character of the houses, 69. Hotels - Servants - Boats, 7o. Requi- sites for the journey to Cairo, 70. History of, 70. Plan of, and description of the build- ings, 74. Library, 77. Museum-Ctsarium, 80. Sarapeum, 82. Panium - Gymnasium, 8;. Monuments, 84. Ancient remains, 85. Pompey's Pillar, 86. Catacombs, 88. Ruins, 89. Size and importance, 89. Trade, 90. Inhabitants, 90. Climate-Lake Mareotis -Canals, 92. Ports -Gates - Walls - Old Docks, 93. Mosks, 94. Amusements, 95. Arsenal, 95. To Hierasycaminon, 259. Alexandria to Cairo, through the Delta, 99. By Western bank, 99. By the Nile, 99. By rail, 107. To Rosetta, 95. To Atfeh, 99. All, Mohammed, io. See Mohammed Ali. Alluvial deposit, old, 398, 400, 402, 408,409, 429. Almanac of the 4th century, 415. Amada, 421. Ammawd8h, house of (Ommiades), 25. Ammon, Oasis of, 230-233. Amun-Tonkb, or Toonh, 305, 363, 372. Asasieh, Heracleqpolis, 268. Ancient remains of Alexandria, 85. Anitnals well repreented, 364, 371. Animals, names wr over, 282. BARABRAS. Antinod, ruins of, 284. Extent, 283. Iluins and tombs in the vicinity, 286. Antiquities at Cairo, 134. Antirhodus, island of, 81. Aphroditopolis, Atf6leh, 265. Aphroditopolis, Itfoo, 302. Apis, temple of, 190. Court of, 190. Apis tombs and stele, 183. Apis-Osiris, or Sarapis, 82, 184. Arab bridges near the pyramids, 182. Arab tribes, 252. Arabic and English vocabulary, 44-66. Arabic character first used, 29, 124. Arch, early use of the, 180, 185, 186, 280, 347, 350, 360, 361, 391. -, pointed, 27, 30, 32, 41, 123, 125, 126, 145, 401, 408. -, pointed, with a horseshoe spur, 127, 142. -, imitation of the, 280. -, pent-roof, 164, 166. - , round horseshoe, rare in Egypt, 12;. Arrows tipped with stone for the chase, 2831, 364. - with metal points for war:, 364. Arsinod, ancient canal of, 194,195. City of, 214. Art, Egyptian, 371. Ashmoon, 215. As16ogee, 215. Assaseef, tombs of the, 361. Asouan, 400. Palms and dates of, 40?. To Derr, 413. Astronomical ceilings, 333, 356, 390. Atf6eh, Aphroditopolis, 265. Atfeh, 98, lot. Athanasius, letter of, 367. Atin-re-Bakhan, 290, 292, 320, 359, 378. Atreeb, Benha el Assal, 209. Athribis, or Crocodilbpolis, 303. Babayn, rock-temple, 272. Babel-el-Maudeb, straits of, 4 I1. Babylon, Egyptian. 144. Bagdad founded, 26. Baharite Memlooks, Sultans, or Kings of Egypt, 34. Bahr-bela-me ravine, 262. Rahr el Abiad and Bahr el Azrek, 420. Bahr el Fargh, or Bahr-bela ma, 230. Bahr Yoosef, 29;. Baiooda desert, alluvial deposit on the, 409. Bajo6ra, 312. Ball, game of, 282. Ballis, 319. Ballasi jars, 319. Ballat, 247. Balsam plants, 154. Bardibras, the modern Nubians, extent of their country, 411. 432 INDEX. BAJIDEES. Bard~es, 309. Barrage of the Nile, 2o5. Basona, 302.- Baths at Cairo, 131. Baths of Cleopatra, 88. Baths,remains of, at El Hammam,in the Fyoom, 237. Battle-scenes at the Memnonium, 331, 333. At Mede6net Haboo, 342. At Luxor, 372. At Karnak, 379. At Kalibshee, 417. At Derr, 422. At Aboo-Simbel, 426. Bayt el Wellee, 417. Bazaars at Cairo, 131. Bebayt-el-Hagar, 211. Beer el Ingleez. 382, 383. Beggars in Egypt, 267. Beggars, Christian water-, 272. Behnesa, 270. Belbiys, 156, 194. Bellianeh, 311. Belzoni's tomb at Thebes of Sethi I., 351. Benha el Assal, 209. Beni Adee, 295. Beni Hassan, grottoes of, 278-283. Beni Mohammed el Kofoor, painted grottoes near, 295. Benisoo6f, 266. To Minieh, 267. Benoob, 212. Benoweet, 302. Berbera, 411. Berenice, 386. Bershoom, 208, 209. Beshendy, ruined town of, 247. Biahmoo, ruins at, 234. Bibbeh, mounds and convent at, 268. Biggeh, 4o4. Island of, 408. Biggig obelisk, 235. Birket el Hag, 154. Birket el Korn, 238. Birket Ghuttis, 101. Birket Haboo, 346. Bishar6dh, gold-mines of the, 385. Bisliar6h tribe of Arabs, some account of, 388. Blacks, Oasis of the, 246. Boats, ancient Egyptian, described, 393. Boats of the Nile, 114. Hire of, 2, 1I4-118. Booayb in Nubia, 395. Boolik, 1o6. Boosh, 266. Brangeb, mounds at, 268. Breccia Verde quarries, 383, 384. Brickmakers, but not Jews, 369. Broombel mounds, 266. Bruce's, or the Harper's tomb, at Thebes, 355. Bubastis, 221. Bullfights at Memphis, 190. Burial-place of the Jews, 262. Of Apis, 184. Bush, burning-, 203. Busiris village, 183. Bussateen village, 262. Byadfdh village, 287. Cadi's court at Cairo, 142. Caesars, names of the, 24. Casar's camp near Alexandria, 95, 96. Cairo founded, 29. Hotels, 109. Houses, III. Servants, II1. Horses --Asses - Carriages, 112. Libraries, 113. Neighbourhood, II. Boats, x14. History of, 120. The Citadel, CONVENTS. 121. Oriental character of, 122. Mosks, 123. Tombs, 128. Fountains- Palaces-.Streets, 130. Cafds-Baths-Slave Market-Bazaars, 131. Quarters--Walls-Extent, 133. Canal, 134. Gates, Antiquities, 174. Population- Festivals and Sights, 135. The Magician, 138. Institutions - Internal administration, 141. Cadi's court, 141. Excursions, 143-191. To Suez, 191. To Mount Sinai, 197. To Syria, 206. To Damietta, 208. To Menzaleh and Tanis, 215. To Bubastis, Pharbethus, and Tanis, 220. To the Natron lakes, 223. To the Oasis of Ammon, 230. To the Fyo6m, 233. To the Little Oasis, 241-243. To the Great Oasis and Oasis of Dakhleh, 241, 241, 247-250. To the Convents of St. Antony and St. Paul inthe eastern Desert, 252. To Beni- soo6f, 261.) (See Old Cairo. Caliphate in Asia, end of, 34. In Egypt, end of, 40. Caliphs and Sultans, list of the, 25-40. Caliphs, tombs of the, 128, 131. Canal of Cairo, cutting of the, 137. Canal of Mahmood6dh, Too. At Cairo, 134. Of Arsinod, 194. Of Moez, 210, 22I. (See Suez.) Candace, Queen, 424. Canopus, 97. Caravans from Dar-Foor (Dar-fur), 250. Carchemish, and conquests of the Egyptians, 333. Caricature, penchant of the Egyptians for, 370. Catacombs at Alexandria, 88, 95. Cataracts of the Nile, 404. Second, 427. Causeway at the pyramids, i8o. - Ceilings of tombs, painted devices on, 297. Cheops, pyramid of, 164. Chereu, 1o1. Chinese, boat with sail like that of the, 278. Christian church, old, at Erment, 389. - - martyrs, 338, 390. remains, 243, 249, 251, 277, 278, 286, 287, 291, 294, 299, 305, 338, 367, 382, 403, 415, 421, 425, 427. Christians, formerly in Egypt and Nubia, 295, 415, 422, 427. Chronological Table of the kings of Egypt,10-24. Church, very early, in a quarry near Aboo Honnes, 287. Churches, 268, 304, 305, 319, 321, 338, 341, 346, 389, 391. - , position of early, 305. Cleopatra, baths of, 88. Cleopatra's portrait at Dendera, 315. Coins, Cufic, 25. - College of Derwishes, i49. Colossi of Thebes, 335, 430. Colossus on a sledge (erroneously called of El Bersheh), 287. -- , a recumbent, in temple of Pthah, 190. Colours, or paints, of the Egyptians, 396. Contra Latron, temple at, 390. Convent or monastery of Gebel e' Tayr, 272. -- of Mount Sinai, 202. Of Geergeh, 309. -- , the oldest at Esn6, 390. Convents or monasteries near Antino?, 287. - - near Negfdeh, 320. - - of St. Antony and St Paul, ?52. Of the Natron lakes, 225. Of Boosh, 266. -- , other, 144, 243, 262, 266, 268, 286,287, 293, 294, 309, 341, 343, 349, 390. __~~_~_ INDEX. CONVENTS. Convents, number of, in Egypt, 228. , Red and White, 302-305. Sin L. of Tabenna, 313. Coptic patriarch, 227), 267. Coptos, 319. Coptos to Berenice, road from, 385-187. Copts have a table, not an altar, 287. Coronation ceremony at Thebes, 342. Cranes winter in Ethiopia, 287. Crocodile mummies, 295. Power of the Tenty- rites over crocodiles, 317. Characteristics of the crocodile, 317. Sacred, 240, 305. Crocodiles, N. limit of, 283. Crocodilopolis, 234, 240, 304, 390. Crusaders in Egypt, 94, o102, 213. At the Red Sea, 205, 206. Cufli character, 29. Curd dynasty, 32. Cush, "Ethiopia," name of, 417, 418. Curious tomb, illustrative of the manners and customs of the Egyptiaus, 368. Cynopolis, 271I. Cyperus, 216, 234. Dlabod temple, 413. Dakhleh, Oasis of, 246. Fruits-Character of the inhabitants, 243. Dakkeh, temple of, 419. Dallas, 266. Damanhoor, 99. Damietta, 213. - - besieged by the Crusaders, 32, 33, 94, 213. Daroot-Oshmoon, 290. Daroot e' Shereef, 29?. Dashdor, pyramids of, 186. Dates in drums at Keneb, 318. - of Seewah, 231. Of the Little Oasis, 244. Of Asouau, 403. Of Ibreem, 403, 412. Davies, Colonel, extracts from his ' Hints to Travellers,' 384. Dayr Byad village, 267. Dayr el Bahree temple, 349. Dayr el Medeeneh temple, 348. Dayr (see E' Dayr, and Derr). Defterddr Bey, II, 185. Delta, the, 2[3. Provinces of, 2[4. - , apex, or S. end, of the, 1o5. Dendera, rounded stones from the opposite desert near, 317. -------, temple of, 31 3-316. Dendoor, temple of, 418. Derb el Hag, 192. Derb e' Russafa, 383. Derb e' Tarab6en, 192. Der6w, 4oo00. Derr, or Dayr, capital of Nubia, 422. To Aboo- Simbel and Wadee Halfeh, 423. Derwishes, college of, 149. Their dance, 15o. Desert, journeys in the, 191 to 208, 223 to 233, 24[ to 255, 383 to 388. Desso6k, fIte at, 102, 214. Dimly, ruins at, in the Fyoom, 237. Diocletian, inscription of time of, 143, 427. Diodorus, 148, et assim. Diospolis Parva, ruins of, 313. Distance from the sea to the Cataracts, 409. Dog and cat mummies, 27 r, 294. [Egypt.] 433 EPITAPHS. Dogs, more than one breed in ancient Egypt, 271. Dogs of Egypt, 312. DOm-trees, Theban palms, the first, 293. Doosh, temple of, 25r. Doric column, prototype of the, 279, 41'. Ddseh at Cairo, 137. Draughts, game of, 282, 340. Drawing, excellence of, 354, 37 r1. Drawings, coloured, illustrative of the agricul- tural pursuits of the early Egyptians, 393. Druses, sect of the, 30, 125. Dwarfs, 282. Dynasties of the Egyptian kings, I1-19. Ebras 294. E' Dayr, Christian village, 287. Temple of, 390. Edfoo temples, 393, 394. Marsh or lake near, 395- Eel (the phagrus) represented, 281. Egg ovens at Geezeh, 158. Egypt, season for visiting, 1. Time required, 2. Requisites for travelling in, xviii, 3, I20. Mode of living, and diseases of the country, 5. Dress-Presents to civil functionaries-Pass- ports-Money, 7, 8. Weights and measures, 9. Post-office, o10. Population - Revenue, ao. Chronological Table of the kings of, 1i- 24. General expenses in, xi, 114-120. Egypt, Upper, 256. Denominations of the towns, 257. Ancient divisions, 257. Egyptian boats, description of ancient, 393. Egyptian temples, 259-261. Eileithylas, ruins at, 392. Grottoes at, 393. Ekhmim, or Akhmim, 305. El Akaba, 205. El Areesh, 208. El Beerbeh mounds, 310. El Bersheh, 288 (see Colossus). El Dooknesra, grotto at, 421. El Eghayta, wells of, 383. El Gherek, 239. El Hammam, 237. El Hamra, 183. El Hareib, 294. El Haybee, ruins at, 269. El Hayz, Oasis of, 245. El Helleh, 391. El Kab, 392. El K4la village, 319. El Kasr, 243. El Kays, mounds at, 211. El Khanka, 154. El Khargeh, town of, 248. El Khardb, ruins at, 42 1. El Khowabid mounds, 299. El Kol61a pyramid, 391. El Kossayr on the Nile, 293. (See Kossayr.) El Mdsarah, 263. El Midmur, mounds at, 299. El Mdktala, x92, 193, 194. El Muggreh plain, 192. Elephantine, island of, 403. Eloth, 205. Emblbeh, 99. Emerald-mines of Gebel Zabira, 387. Ancient road from Contra Apollinopolis to, 387. English and Arabic vocabulary, 43-66. Epitaphs at Asouan, 401. U 434 INDEX. E' IRAAINEH. E' Raaineh, or Raaineh, 300, 302. E' Rahman4dh, 102. Ergamenes, King of Ethiopia, 419. Erment, antiquity of, 323, 388. Erment temple, 389. E' Shekh Shenedeen, mounds at, 301. E' Shrirafa town, 320. Esn6, road to, 25 . Temple of, 390. Ethiopia, 410-413, 429. , Queen of, coming in her chariot to Egypt, 364. Etko, 97. Eunostus, port of, at Alexandria, 8 r1. Examination, points requiring, 41. Excursions from Cairo, 143-157. From Medee- neh, 235. To Behnesa, 270. From Girgeh to Abydus, 3c9. Expenses of the journey to Egypt, xi. Expenses of the journey in Eygpt, xi, 114,118, 120. Ezion-Geber, 206. Farafreh, Oasis of, 246. Faras, or Farras, 427. Fares, 398. Farshoot, 312. Fatemite dynasty, 28. Ferayg temple and church, 427. Feshn, mounds of, 268. Festivals at Cairo, :1'. Fetes at Tanta, 214. (See Dessook.) Figures in squares, 353, 399. Fons Trajanus, 254. Fooah, 101. Foreign kings of Egypt (see Stranger kings), 378. Fort-at Abydus, 31I. Fort at el Hybee, 269. Fort at Hieraconpolis, 39 r. Fortification, system of Egyptian, 269, 392, 421, 429. Fossil remains, 156, 181. Fossil wood, 156, 192, 229. Fountains at Cairo, 130. Of the Sun, 154. Of Moses, 200. Fow, mounds at, 302, 311. France, route through, and expenses, xi. Steamers from, to Egypt and Syria, xii. Frescoes at Thebes, Roman, 373. Funeral ceremonies at Zowyet el Myiteen, 277. in the Theban tombs, 366. 370. Fyoom, the, 191. -, route to the, 233. Gamille, ruins of a temple at, 414. Gam61a, 320. Gates of the kings, Thebes, 341. Of Cairo, 128. Gaza, 208. Gebel Aboofayda, 293. Gebel Attdka, 193. Gebel e' Dokhan, porphyry quarries of, 254. Gebel e' Rossaiss, lead.mines of, 387. Gebel e' Tayr, 273. Gebel el Fate&reh, 254. Gebel Mokuttum, 156. Gebel el Mlukutiub, 20!. Gebel Shokh Embarak, 2(9. Gebel Shekh Hereedee, 3c i. Gebel Zabtra, emerald-mines of, 387. HOWAWEESH. Gebel e' Zayt, 253. Geezeh, egg ovens at, 158. Geergeh or Girgeh, 309. Gemelidh, 216. George, St., converted into a Moslem santon, 268, 303. Gerf Hossiyn, 418. Gertassee, 414. Gibbon, the historian, 79, 83, 90, 298. Girgeh to Abydus, 309. To Keneh, 311. Gisr el Agoos, 273, 291, 296. Glassblowers, 365. Glass-house, ancient, at Natron lakes, 224. Gloves, ancient, 368. Gold-mines of the Bishartih, 385. Gol6saneh, 272. Gow, 30co. Gow el Gharb&dh, 30 r. Granite, imitation of, 280. -- sculptures, in relief, 212, 358. quarries of Gebel Fateereh, 254. In the neighbourhood of Asouan, 402. Great Oasis, the, 24T, 250. Objects of interest in, 250. Roads from Abydus to, 311. Great pyramid, description of, 164. Great temple at Mede6net Haboo, 399. At Karnak, 374. Grottoes at Masarah, 263. At Kom Ahmar, 278. At Bent Hassan, 278. At E' Dayr (called of El Bersheh), 288. At Isbayda and Tel el Amarna, 291. At Beni Mohammed El Kofo6r, 295. At Sioot, 297. At i' Raaineh and Gow, 300. At Gebel Shekh Hereedee, 301. At Howaweesh, 308. At Kasr E' Syad, 313. At Dendera, 317. At Hieraconpolis, 391. At Eileithyias, 393. At Silsilis, 395. l ,agar e' Salam, 269. Hgar Silsileh, 395. Hamatha, dog mummies at, 269. Hamr stone for cooking utensils, 391. Harbayt, 223. Hareib (see El Harelb). Haroun el Rashid, 26. Harris, Mr., 21, 287, 295, 296, J10, 320, 388, 389, 394, 395, 406. Hassia, 421. Head of animals offered, 367. Hegira, the, note on, 25. Heliopolis, 151. Hlelwan village, 264. Henneh, or La sovia, 412, 418. Hereedee, Shekh, 301. Hermonthis temple, 388. Old church at, 389. Herodotus, lo5, et passim. Heroopolis, 195. Hieraconpolis, 391. Hierasycaminon, 421. Hieroglyphic tablets at Saribut el Khidem, 201. Hieroglyphic inscriptions at Wadee Tdneh, 202. Historical sculptures at Karnak, 379. At Me- de6net Hiboo, 343. (See Battle-scenes.) History of Cairo, 120. Horses of Egypt, 112. Hotels at Alexandria, 69. - at Cairo, 109. How, Diospolis parva, 313. Howdra Arabs, 312. Howaweesh grottoes, 308. INDEX. IBREEM. Ibreem, 423. Ichneumon, worship of the, 268. Illahoon pyramid, 241. Inscription of Athanasius, 367. - on Pompey's pillar, 86. In the de- sert of Mount Sinai, 200. At Mount Sinai, 202. At Tehneh, 274. At Tel el AmArna, 292. At Athribis, 304. At Ekhmim, 306. At Dendera, 315. In the breccia quarries, 384. At Ombos, 399. At Phile, 407. At Dabod, 414. At Kalibshee, 416. At Dak- keh, 419, 42o. At Aboo-Simbel, 426. Insula, use of the term, 182,402. Iron and steel, use of, 179. Irrigation, mode of, in Nubia, 412. Isbayda, 291. ]jsis, temple of, in the island of Philse, 406. land of Elephantine, 4o3. Of Sehayl, 404. Of Phile, 405. Of Biggeh, 408. Ismail Bey, wall of, 262. Isment in the Oasis, ruins at. 247. Isment el Bahr, mounds at, 267. Israelites, passage of the, 193. I tfoo, 302. Ivy and the Periploca,. 355. Jews (see Brickmakers, Onion), "ruins of the," in the Fyoom, 239. Joseph's Well, 121. Journey to Egypt, preparations for, xviii. Journey in Egypt, requisites for the, xviii, 3, 119. Journey in the Desert, requisites for the, 198, 242. Journey to and in Egypt, expenses of the, xi, 114, 118,119. EIafr, Makfoot, 234. Kalabshee, 415. Kalamdon, in the Oasis, 247. Kariodn, 101. Karnak, 323. Great temple at, 314. Karrawee, ioI. Kasr Ain e' Zayin, 250. Kasr el Ainee, 149. Kasr el Goaytsh, 250. Kasr e' Syid, 313. Kasr Kharoon, ruins at, 238.. Keneh, 318. To Thebes, 318. To Kossayr, 382. Ken65s or Kensee tribe, 411. Khamsin winds, season of, Pentecost, 2. Khargeb, Wah el, or Great Oasis, 248. Objects of interest in, 248. Great temple of, 249. Kings of Egypt, Chronological Table of, 11-19. Kings, contemporary, II, 12, 360, 388. Kings, Tombs of the, 351. Kobt, Coptos, 319. Kolzim mountains, 194. Town, 194. Kom Ahmar, 269, 278, 391. Tombs at, 278. Kom Ayr mounds, 39i. Komel Aswed, 18;. Kom el Hettin (Thebes), 334. Kom Ombo, 398. Kom Wesdem, ruins in the vicinity of, 235, 237. Koorneh (Thebes), 32. .Temple at Old, 326. Koornet Murraee (Thebes), tombs ol, 363. Koo tee, 421. MEDICINES. Koos, 320. Koos-kam, 300. Korayn dates, O102. Kossayr, arrival from India at, 384. To the Nile, 384. Kossayr, Old, 254. Koss6h, 294. Kostamneh, 419. Labyrinth, 237, 240. Lake Mareotis, 92. Mceris, 235. Menzaleh, 211. Latopolis, Esne, 390. Lead-mines of Gebel e' Rossiss, 387. Lekhmas, mounds in the yicinity of, Io5. Lepsius, bilingual stone described by Dr., 220. Letopolis, 191. Library at Cairo, 113. Library of Alexandria, 77. Libyan hills, 191. Limestone, use of, underground, 349, 397. Limestone quarries of Misarah, 263. Near Shekh Hassan, 271. At Wadee e' Dayr, 272. Near Sooadee, 278. At Shekh Tiniy, 284. Near Isbayda, 291. Near Abydus, 311. Near Dendera, 317. Lincoln's Inn Fields, area of, supposed to be that of the Great Pyramid, 17o. Liquorice grows in the Oasis, 244- Lisht, Pyramids of, 265. Little Oasis, the, 243. Fruits, 244. Inhabit- ants, 245. Living, and diseases, in Egypt, 5. London to Alexandria, 67. Louis IX. (St.), 33, 34. Lotus capitals, full-blown, 278, 30oo. Lowbgeh wine, in the Oasis, 244. Luxor, obelisks of, 372. Lycopolis, John of, 298. lHatazee road, 192. Arabs, 252. Madbdeh, crocodile-mummy pits oi, 295. Magician, the, at Cairo, 138. Mahallet Daimaneh, 215. Maharraka, 421. Mahmood6eh canal, Ioo. Malatehb, mounds at, 269. Malta, description of, xiv. Malta, curious ruins near Crendi in, xvi. Manfaloot, market-iown, 295. Mangles and Irby, Captains, 288, 427. Mankabat, 296. Manna of the israelites, 199. Manso6ra, 213. To Menzateh, 215. Mareotis, lake, 92. Mariette, M., l06, 184, 220, 311, 317, 394. Mark, body of St., taken to Venice, 94. Masarah quarries, 263. Matar6eh, Beleiopolis, 151. Matar6eh, 217. Maydoon mounds, 265. Medam6t, 321. Medeeneh town, 233. Excursions from, 235. To Benisoo6f, 240.. Medeeneh, ruins of Arsinod near, 287. Medeenet Haboo, temples. 338-339. Medicines in Egypt, xviii, 5. v 2 436 INDEX. MEKKEEAS. Mekkeeas, or Nilometer, of Old Cairo in island of Roda, 146. Mellawee, 290. Memlook dynasties, 36-40. Memlooks conquered by Sultan Selfm, 154. Memlooks, tombs of the, 128, 129. Memnon, the vocal, 335. --, tomb of, 356. Palace of, 310o. - - being given to Amunoph III., proba- ble reason of the name, 328. Memnonium, 328. Description, 328. Plan of the, 330. Sculptures, 331. Great Hall, 333. Ruins in the vicinity of, 334. Memphis, 7I, 186. Temples of, 189. Deities of, 189. Menes, dyke of, 188, 265. Menoof, 99. Mensh6dh, extensive mounds at, 308. Menzaleh, 216. Canal, 215. Cyperus on its banks, 216. Ferries, 216. Neighbourhood, 216. To San, or Tanis, 217. Metoobis, ruins of, 98. Metihara, 278. Minieh, 276. To Sioot, 277. Cemetery of, 277. Miniet el Kumh, 221. Miniet e' Geer, mounds of, 268. Miniet Silse61, 216. Mishte, mounds at, 301. Mit e' Nassdrah, 215. Mit-Fires, 215. Mitrahenny mounds, 187, 264. Mceris, lake, 235. Moez, canal of, 210, 221. Mohammed All, family of, 10o. Moileh, valley of, 243. Money, and coins, in Egypt, 8. Monolith at Gow, 3oi. At Tel-et-Mai, 215. At Koos, 320. At Phils, 406. Mons Pentedactylus, 387. Morgose, ruins at, 414. "Moses, fountain of," 200. Mosk of Amer, at Old Cairo, 143. At Asouan, 401. Mosk ofSoltan Hassan, great, 36, 126. Mosks at Alexandria, 94. At Cairo, 123. Mount Sinai, instructions for a journey to, 17. inscriptions at, 200. Convent of, 202. To El Akaba, 205. Mummy-pits at Sakkdra, 184. Myos Hormos, ruins at, 254. Naba, fountain of, 199. Nil (the word "Shoe "), 2o5. Napata, 410, 411, 419, 423, 424. Nations, or races, of mankind, the four, 353, 356. Natron called Hoses, 228. Natron in valley of Nile, 391, 393. Natron lakes, o105, 223. Naval fight, 344. Nizbeh ruins, 200oo. Nechesia, 387. Negddeh, 320. Nicopolis, near Alexandria, 95. Nfge6leb, 104. Nile, Rosetta and Damietta branches, io5. Pe- lusiac and Canopic branches, lo5. Sebennytic branch, io5. The Cataracts, 404. Nile, the, to Kossayr, 383. Road from, to Bere- nice, 387. PETRA. Nile, change of level of the, in Ethiopia, 398, 402, 409, 429- Nile, rise of the bed of, and of the land, 148, 337. General fall of, 405. Nilometer near Old Cairo, 146. Nilometer, ancient, at Elephantine, 401, 403, 404. Nilometers, other, 148, 188, 264. Nishoo, mounds at, Io1. Nitria district, or Nitriotis, 228. Nizam, disciplined troops, 295. Nomes in the Delta, 214. Nomes of Egypt, 257. Nooba district, 411. Nubadoe, or Nobatm, 411, 416. Nubia, 410. Method of irrigation in, 412. Nubians, modern, or Baitibras, extent of their country, 411. Nummulite rock, 181, 290. Oasis of Ammon, 230. Oasis, the Little, 241, 243. The Great, 241, 248. Description of the Oases, 243. Springs in the Little Oasis, 244, 247. Character and pursuits of the inhabitants, 244. Oasis of the Blacks, 246. Of Dakhleh, 246. Obelisk of Osirtasen at Heliopolis, 152. Obe- lisk near Biggig, 235. Obelisks at Tanis, 219. At Alexandria, 85, 86, 87. Once at Dayr el Bahree, Thebes, 349. Of Luxor, 372. Of Karnak, 375, 376. In a quarry at Asonan, 402. Of Phile, 407. Old Koorneh, temple-palace at, 326. Old Cairo, 143-149. Om Baydab, in the Oasis, ruins at, 231. Ombos, 318, 398, 429. Ommiade dynasty, 25. Onion, Jewish city, 155. Ophthalmia, treatment of, 6. Orpheus, origin of his mystical ceremonies, 189. Oshmoonayn, 289. Osioot, or Sioot, 296. To Girgeb, 299. Osiris, temple of, 190. Tomb of, 310, 406. Ovens for hatching eggs at Geezeh, 1i58. Oxyrhinchus, 270, 271. Oxyrhinchus fish, 281. Palaces at Cairo, 13o. Palm-tree capitals, 219, 301. Palm-trees, old beams in form of, 173, 300o. Palm-trees, wild, in Wadee Ryan, 243. Palm or date-trees taxed, 244, 422. Palm-wine, 244. Palms, Theban, 293. Of Asouan and Ibreem 403. Pampanis village, 318. Panopolis, 305. Papa, or Papi (Apappus), 201, 278, 289, 295, 384, 392, 397. Papyri, false, 323. Papyrus, 216, 229. Passports in Egypt, 8. Pathyris and Pathros, 324. Peasants, Christian, 287, 303. Pelusium, 207, 217. Peripteral temple near El Kab, 391. At Ele- phantine, 403. At the island of Phile, 406. Petra, journey to, 205, 206. __* __ INDEX. PETRIFIED. Petrified wood, 156, 192, 229. Pharaohs, chronological list of, 11-18. "'haraoh's throne" at Sakkira, 185. Pharos, island of, 73. Tower of, 75, 77. Har- bour, 76. Position, 77. Philme, island of, 405. Temple of Isis at, 406. -, the frontier of ancient Egypt, 410o. , miscalled Philoe, 405. Philoteras Portus, 254. Pigeon-houses at Radineh, 302. Pigs rarely represented, 365, 366. Pipe-bowls of Sioot, 296. Plan of the pyramids of Geezeh, 162. Pliny on the pyramids, 163, 168, 169. Police at Cairo, 141. Polybius, his account of the inhabitants of Alexandria, 91. Pompey's pillar, 86. Population of Cairo, 135. Population and revenue of Egypt, io. Porcelain, vitrified, of antiquity, 185. Porphyry quarries, 253, 254. Post-office in Egypt, 1io. Presents in Egypt, 7. Psammetichus, deserters from, 426. Proteus, abode of, 71. Ptolemaic temple, 346, 348. Ptolemies, list of, 19, 23. Pyramids, first view of; Io5. Excursion to, from Cairo, 157. Principal requisites for, 157. History of, 158. Description of the Great, 164. Probable purposes for which the pyra- mids were built, 169. Dimensions of the Great Pyramid, 169, 170. Second pyramid, 171. Third pyramid, 174. Causeway at, 18o. Small pyramids, i8r. Date of the pyra- mids, 181. Pyramid of Abooroash, 182. Of Abooseer, 183. Of Sakkara, 184. Of Dashoor, 186. Last view of, 262. Of the Labyrinth, 237, 240. Of Biahmoo, 234. Of Lisht, 265. Of Howara, and Illahoon, 240, 241. Of El Koola, 391. Pyramid, false, 265. Pyramids at Thebes of crude brick, 361. Pyramids of crude brick at Dashoor, 186, 264. At Hawara and Illahoon, 240, 241. Quails, 199, 208. Quarries of Toora and Masarah, 263. Of Teb- ne, 274. Of Breccia Verde, 383. Of Hagar Silsileh, 395. Of Asouan, 402. Quarry, mode of beginning a, 263. Quarters, division of Cairo into, 132. Queens, tombs of the, at Thebes, 347. lRaaineh, or E'Raaineh, 300, 302. Railway to Cairo, 107. Rain at Thebes, 346. Ramsees, O104. Red Convent, the, 305. Red Sea, passage of the Israelites, 193. Red Sea, name of the, 194. Redesfdh, 395, 400. Reefa, grottoes at, 299. Remains, ancient, of Alexandria, 85. Remeses II., mutilated statues of, 328. - -- III., great temple-palace of, 339. Bat- tie-scenes in, 343. Remeseum, 328. 437 SEMNEH. Reramoon, 289. Rhinocolura, 208. Rice not cultivated in Upper Egypt, 216. Roads from the valley of the Nile to Fyodm, 233. From the Nile to Kossayr, 383. Roda, island, 146. Mounds at, 287. Roman camp, 96. Roman stations, 385, Roman statue wearing the toga, 302. Roman frescoes, Thebes, 37 3. Rosetta, 97. Rosetta stone, inscription at Phihelm resembling that of the, 406. Rosetta to Atfeh and Cairo, 98. Rudders of boats, 366. Ruins at Alexandria, 84-89. At Metoobis, 98. At Biahmoo, 234. Near the lake Mceris, 235. Of Kom Wese6m, 237. At Kasr Kharoon, 238. At Isment, 247. In the vicinity of El Khargeh, 249-251. Of Myos Hormos, 254. At El Hiybee-at Kom Ahmar, 269. At Gisr el Agoos, z73. At Gow, 300. At How, 313. Of Coptos, 319. Of Medam6t, 321. Near the Memnonium, 334. At Mede6net Haboo, 338-346. At Eileithyias, 392. At Ombos, 398. At Asouan, 400. At Elephan- tine, 403. At Sehayl, 404. At Phile, 405. At Biggeh, 408. At DabOd, 413. At Ges- tassee, 414. At Tayfa and Kalabshee, 415. At Dakkeh, 419. At Koortee, Sabood, and Ama- da, 421. At Serra and Wadee Halfa, 427. At Semneh, 428. (See Temple.) Rum distillery at Sooadee, 277. At Reramoon, 289. Rushes of the Natron Lakes, 229. Ryan, Wadee, 243. Sabagoora, ruined town of, 418. Sab6oa, 421. Sacred fig-tree, 421. Saeed, the, 256, 262. Sais, mounds, 102. Lake, 102, 103. Sakdyt and Berenice, 386, 387. Sakkdra, pyramids of, 184. Mummy-pits at, 185. "Pharaoh's throne," 185. Salabdhb, 207. Saladin, 32, 221. Samalood, 272. Samhood, 311. Sandstone, region of, 391. Sandstone and granite, junction of the, 400oo. Sandstone quarries at Hagar Silsileh, 395. At Gertasee, 414. At Kalibshee, 417. Sardbut el Kbadem, 2O, 204: Sarapeum at Memphis, 184, 190. Sarapis, temple of, 82, 92. Name of, 82. Sayd-el-Beddowee, fete of, 214. Scarabaeus, for Cancer, 314. Schedia, 10o. Sculptures, historical, at Karnak, 379. Sculpture, changes in the style, 371. Sea of Kolzim, 194. Sebennytus mounds, 21o0. Stewah, productions of the, 231. S6ewah, customs of the, 232. Sehayl, island of, 404. Selim, Soltan, 19, 40, 154, 403, 422, 423, 425. Semenood, 210. Semneh, 428. 438 IND SENOORIS. Seno6ris, 234. Serare8h, or E'Serardlh, 272. Serra, 427. Servants, III. Sesostris, statues of, at Memphis, 187. Sesostris, wall of, 273. Shabeka, mounds at, 30or. Sharara, mounds at, 278. Shar6na, mounds at, 269. Shaym-t el Wah, 414. Shekh Abd el Koorneh (Thebes), tombs of,. 364. Shekh Aboo Noor village, 268. Shekh Fodl, 271. Shekh guides to Mount Sinai, 197. Shekh Hereedee, 301. Shekh Timay, catacombs at, 284. Shenhoor, 321. Shenow88h, mounds at, 266. Shepherd kings, 12, 182, 292. Shereefs, or Shurafa, wear the green turban, 37, 320. Sherbet from liquorice-root, 244. Shields of great size, 298. Shishak, Sheshonk, Jewish captives of, 382. Shobuk, 425. Shodb mounds, 299. Shoobra Palace, o6. Gardens at, 156. Silco, king of Ethiopia, 416. Silsilis, 395. Silsilis, rocks gave way at, 398, 408, 429. Sinai, instructions for a journey from Cairo to Mount, 197. Inscriptions at, 201. Convent of, 202. To El Akaba, 205. Sinaitic inscriptions, 200, 2o, 253. Sioot, 296. To Girgeh, 299. Siphons, 365. Sits, mounds at, 268. Slavery of great antiquity in Egypt, 364. Sledge, colossus on, 287. Stone on, 263. Snails, locality of, 192. Snake of Shekh Hereedee, 301. Soddee, rum distillery at, 277. . Soohig, 302. Speos Artemidos, 278, 283. Sphinx, the, 175. Sphinxes, avenues of, 349, 374, 376, 379.- Springs in the Little Oasis, 244. Standards, with names of Egyptian nomes, dis- covered by Mr. Harris, 394, 406. Statues of Sesostris at Memphis. 187. Steamers, from France and England, xii. Steamers from Trieste, xix. Steamers on the Nile, 2, 119. Strabo, 76, etpassim. Stranger kings, 12, 13, 20, 184, 292, 305, 328, 359, 363. Stranger kings, list of the, 378. Suez, 192. Probable spot of the passage of the Israelites, 197. Ancient canal, 194. Suez ship-canal, proposed, 196. Sugar manufactory at Reramoon, 289. Sultans and Caliphs, list of the, 25-40. Suphis (Cheops) or Shofo, and his brother, 166, 167, 178, 179, 181. Syene, Asouan, 400oo. Character of the rocks in the neighbourhood, 402. Syene, supposed tropical well at, 401. Syria, steamers to, from Egypt, xii. Tabenina isle, 313. EX. TOMBS. Tablets of the First Amunoph, 347. - of the time of Remeses II., 397. Taha "of the two columns," 275. Tahaneb, mounds at, 265. Tahta, extensive mounds at, 301. Tanis, 218. Obelisks at, 219. Tanis, bilingual inscription at, 220. Tanioof, mounds of, 293. Tanseh, mounds at, 268. Tanta, 214. Taphis, ruins of, 415. Tardeh, on the Rosetta branch, io4. Tehneh, mounds and inscriptions at, 273. Tel Basta mounds, 156. Tel el Amlrna, 291. Tel el Yeh6od mounds, 155. Tel et Mai, 215. Tel Howeel, 221. Temple palace at Old Kodrneh, 326. Temple of the Sun, I53. Temples of Memphis, 188. Of Pthah, I8), 190. Of Apis, 190. Of Venus, 190. Of Sarapis, 190. Of Bebayt-el. Hagar, 211. Great Temple of El Khirgeh, 249. Temple at Kasr el Goaytih, 250. Of Doosh, 251. At Kasr Ain e Zayain, 250. Egyptian temples, 25 9. Of Hermopolis, 289. Of D)endera, 314. At Medesnet Haboo, 339. At Thebes, 346, 147. At Karnak, 374. At Erment, 389 Of E' Dayr, 390. Of Esne, 390. Of Amunoph III., 392. Of Edfoo, 393. At Elephantine, 403. At Phile, 406. At Big- geh, 408. At Dabod, 413. At Kalibshliee, 415. Of Dendoor, 418. Of Gerf Hossayn, 418. Of Dakkeh, 419. Of Derr, 422. At Aboo Simbel, 425. Of Ferdyg, 427. Of Sem- neb, 428. (See Ruins.) Temples, plans of, 259. Tennees, Roman tombs at, 217. l'erdineh, io5. Testudo, use of the, 280, 3 2. Thebes, 322. Quickest mode of seeing, 321. Description of, 324. - Decline and fall of, 325. Had no wall round it. 188, 325. Not so old as Memphis, 325. Temple-Palace at Old Ko6rneh, 326. Menmonium, or 'Remeseum, 328. Two Colossi of, 335. Rise of the land, 337. Mede6net Haboo, 338. Small temple at, 338. Great temple at, 339, Sculptured battle-scenes in, 343. Ptolemaic temple at, 346. Lake, 346. Small temple, 346. Tombs of the Queens, 341. Other tombs, 347. Dayr el Medeeneh, 348. Dayr el Bahree, 349. Tombs of the Kings, 351. Bel- zoni's tomb, ?1S. Bruce's, or the Harper's tomb, 354. Tomb of Meunon, 356. The Western Valley, 359. Tombs of priests and private individuals, 349. Of the Assaseef, 361. Of Koornet Miurrae, 363. Of Shekh Abd el Koorneh, 364. Eastern bank, 371. i arnak, 374. Comparative antiquity of the buildings, 375. Historical sculptures, 379. To Kossayr, 383. To Asouan, 388. This, city, 310. Tirhaka, 15, 219, 388, 411. Tofnes, 390. Tomnii Mounds, 241. Tombs at Cairo, 128, 129. At thePyramids, 178. Of Hermopolis, 290. At Sioot, 297. At Aby- dus, 310. Of the Queens, at Thebes, 347. Of the Kings, 351. Belzoni's, 351. Of Memnon, INDEX. TOMEEH. 356. In the Western Valley, 3;9. Of the Kings, openin the time of the Ptolemies, 358. Of priests and private individuals, 359. Thebes, the oldest at, 360. Largest, at Thebes, 361. Of the Assaseef, 361. Of lKoor- net Murraee, 363. Private, at Thebes, the most curious, 347, 361, 363, 364, 366, 368. Of Shekh Abd el Koorneh, 364. Resold, 365. Subjects in the, an epitome of human life, 365. Of Christian martyrs near Esn6, 390. Tomedh, 234, 241. Tooloon dynasty, 27. Toona island, 217. Toona hill, sculptures at, 290. Toora mounds, 262. Quarries, 263. TFor town. 204. Tosk, 425. T''owns, sites of ancient, raised, 221. Towns, denominations of, 257. Treacle from dates, 244. Troici lapidis mons, stones taken from, to the Pyramids, x71, 263. Tropic, 401, 418. Tuot, 389. Turkmans, rise of the, 30. Tzitzi, ruins of, 414. Valley, Western, at Thebes, 359. Vases of elegant shape, like Greek, but much older, 368. Venus, temple of, at Memphis, 190. Urn, African prefix of, 207. Vocabulary, English and Arabic, 43-66. Vocal Memnon, the, 335. Vyse, Colonel Howard, discoveries of, 166, 185. His computed measurements of the Great Pyramid, 170. Of the Second Pyramid, '173. Of the Third Pyramid, 175. Of the pyramids of Dash6or, 186. Wadlee Booa, grottoes at, 295. WVadee el Areesh, 208. 439 ZUBBO. Wadee e' Dayr, 274. Wadee Faran, 202. Wadee Foakhe6r, 384. Wadee Gamoos torrent, 286. Wadee Gendelee valley, 192. Wadee Ghomyer, 265. Wadee Halaz6nee, 192. Wadee Halfa, 427, 428. Wadee Jaffra, 192. Wadee Keneh, 202. Wadee Maghira, inscriptions at, 2o01. Wadee Natro6n, 223. Wadee lRydn, 243. Wradee Sudr, 200. Wadee Tafa, 415. Wadee T6neh, near Mount Sinai, 202. Wah, or Oasis, villages of the, 243, 245. Wah e' Daldkhleb, population of the, 247. Wah el Behnesa, the Little Oasis, 243. Wah el Khargeh, the Great Oasis, 248. Objects of interest in, 248. Wah Koorkoo, 414. Weights and measures in Egypt, 9. Wels of El Eghayta, 383. Wescem, 191. Western Valley of Thebes, the, 359. White Convent, or Monastery, the, 30 . Wild foe i abundant in the Delta, 217. At thei Natron lakes, 229. in Upper Egypt, 303, 395. Wooden cramps in masonry, old, 349. Wrestling, ancient, 280, 282. Zakazeele, 223. Zakeek at the Natron lakes, 224. Zaytoon, 266. " Zoan, field of," 218. Zodiac of Dendera, 314. E' Dayr, 390. Esn6, 390. Zowyeh, 266. Zowyet el Myiteen, 277. Zowyet el Myiteen, no old tombs at, 278. Zubbo, ruins near, in the Little Oasis, 243. END. LONDON: PRINTED BY W. 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MoT CEmS -Borgo's Carriages . 43 32 MuIcon-Winmer's Magazine . 7 Par'so Lit S 45 NAPLES-Civalleri, Agent . . . 15 Passport 40 Hotel Vittoria . . 32 Passport itz 11 NU MBERc--Htel de Baviere .37 Popular i R . 1 led Horse Hotel . . . 25 Portmant Artists 10 PAns-HOtel des Deux Mondes . 47 Railway 6 Galignani's Guide .... 26 ent. 41 PmoA-Andreoni, Sculptor . . . Thresher S. 12 PRAGUE-Hofmann's Glass Manu- h . 20 factory . . . . . . . . 10 15 " 15 RhGAz-HOtel Tamina ... 19 oiSt- 26 Ros-Shea, House Agent . 13 The Ro . 33 ROTTaRDAm-Kramers, Bookseller 26 LyNToN- Ware- SCHAFFAUSMEN-HtelSchweizer- Valley 34 hof. ... . 37 OXFOn- Stag- Tuei-Grand HOtel de l'Europe 49 Spiers' 38,39 tares S 48 VENICE-Grand Hotel Victoria . 44 PENZANC Ponti, Optician. . . 12 Poun S. VIcHY--Grand HOtel du Par . 42 ount' S. 52 VIENNA-Lobmeyr's Glass Manu- PLIMOUT ., . 19 factory.. . . . . 10 The Reo 20 Grand HOtel National . . . 45 S33 Ullrich's Glass Warehouse . . 11 WI3s3nBADE-Four Seasons Hotel. 54 ope . 41 W DBAD--HOtel ilumpp. . . 46 PORTRUs . lc- tel Bellevue 53 Anti �.52 Huma-MHOtel Bellevue . �. 53 Anti May, 1868. Page LONDON. ge M'Oracken . . . . 3-5 ier and Carr . . . 16,17 m ..... . . 50 nd Polson's Patent Flour 23 lescope .... 20 Locks and Safes . . . 18 tal Express Agency . . 21 and Servants . . . . 51 Books . . . . 33 urniture and Bedsteads . 29 d Testament . 5. . 14 e Company;North British 30 lectrician ..... 36 Carter's Guide DepOt. . 56 Library . . . . . . 25 fe Pills . . . . 35 Agency-Adams . . . 21 Agency-lDorTeU . . 505 Agency-Stanford . 22 Works ....2 teaus-Allen's. . . . 27 -South-Western . . . 28 's Essentials for Travel- 15 yal Hotel . . . . . 35 of Rocks Hotel' . . . 35 Ornamental Manufac- . . . . . . . . 26 E- s Bay House and Hotel . 42 H- yal Hotel .. . 20 IRELAND. t Arms Hotel . . . . 28 B MURRAY'S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. HANDY EbITIONS OF POPULAR WORKS. ' Books that you may carry to the fire, and hold readily in your hand, are the most useful after all. A man will often look at them, and be tempted to go on, when he would have been frightened at books of a larger size, and of a more erudite appearance.'-DR. JoNson. HALLAM'S HISTORICAL WORKS: containing the HISTORY OF Eo- LAND, THE MIDDLE AGES, and LITERARY HISTORY. 10 vols. Post 8vo. 6s. each. MAHON'S HISTORY OF ENGLAND, FROM THE PEACE OF UTERECHT TO THE PEACE OF VERSAILLES, 1713-83. 7 vols. Post 8vo. 5s. each. LIFE OF WILLIAM PITT. By Earl STANHOPE. Portraits. 4 vols. Post 8vo. 24s. MILMAN'S HISTORICAL WORKS: containing HISTORY OF THE JEWS, OmURISTIANITY, and LATIN CHRISTIANITY. 15 vols. Post 8vo. 6s. each. WILKINSON'S PRIVATE LIFE, MANNERS, AND CUSTOMS OF THE ANCIENT EGYPTIANS. Woodcuts. 2 vols. Post 8vo. 12s. CHOICE TRAVELS AND ADVENTURES. Illustrated. Post 8vo. 7s. 6d. each. I. Curzon's Monasteries of the Levant. [ IV. Dufferin's Letters from High Latitudes. II. Head's Bubbles from the Brunnen. ( V. Layard's First Expedition to Nineveh. HI. Livingstone's Missionary Travels in I VI. Layard's Second Expedition to Nineveh South Africa. and Babylon. VII. Parkyns' Travels in Abyssinia. HEBER'S POETICAL WORKS. Portrait. Small 8vo. 6s. BYRON'S POETICAL WORKS. Plates. 10 vols. Small 8vo. 30s. MOORE'S LIFE OF LORD BYRON. Plates. 6 vols. Small 8vo. 18s. CRABBE'S LIFE AND POETICAL WORKS. Plates. 8 vols. Small 8vo. 245s. MILMAN'S POETICAL WORKS. Plates. 3 vols. Small 8vo. 18s. MR. SMILES' INDUSTRIAL BIOGRAPHIES. Post 8vo. 6s. each. I. Self Help. III. James Brindley and Early Engineers. IL. Iron Workers and Tool Makers. IV. George and Robert Stephenson. V. Thomas Telford. DAVY'S CONSOLATIONS IN TRAVEL. Woodcuts. Small 8vo. 6s. SOUTHEY'S BOOK OF THE CHURCH. Post 8vo. 7s. 6d. SPECIMENS OF THE TABLE TALK OF SAMUEL TAYLOR COLERIDGE. Portrait. Small 8vo. 6s. JOHN MURRAY, ALBEMARLE STREET. May, MURRAY'S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. LODoNw, May 1, 1867. MESSRS. J. & R. MCCRACKEN, 38, QUEEN STREET, CANNON STREET, E.0., AGENTS, BY APPOINTMENT, TO THE ROYAL ACADEMY, NATIONAL GALLERY, AND GOVERNMENT DEPARTMENT OF SCIENCE AND ART, GENERAL AND FOREIGN AGENTS, WINE MERCHANTS, Agents for Bouvier's Neuchatel Champagne, AND AGENTS GENERALLY FOR THE RECEPTION AND SHIPMENT OF WORKS OF ART, BAGGAGE, &C., FRIOM AND TO ALL PARTS OF THE WORLD, Avail themselves of this opportunity to return their sincere thanks to the Nobility and Gentry for the patronage hitherto conferred on them, and hope to be honoured with a continuance of their favours. Their charges are framed with a due regard to economy, and the same care and attention will be bestowed as heretofore upon all packages passing through their hands. J. and R. McC. have the advantage of DRY AND SPACIOUS WAREHOUSES, Where Works of Art and all descriptions of Property can be kept during the Owners' absence, at most moderate rates of rent. Parties favouring J. and R. McC. with their Consignments are requested to be particular in having the Bills of Lading sent to them DIRECT by Post, and also to forward their Keys with the Packages, as, although the contents may be free of Duty, all Packages are still EXAMINED by the Customs immediately on arrival. Packages sent by Steamers or otherwise to Southampton and Liverpool also attended to; but all Letters of Advice and Bills of Lading to be addressed to 38, QUEEN STREET, as above. MESSRS. J. AND R. MCCRACKEN ARE THE APPOINTED AGENTS IN ENGLAND OF MR. J. M. FARINA, GEGENUBER DEM JULICHS PLATZ, COLOGNE, FOR HIS CELEBRATED EAU DE>COLOGNE. B2 1868. 4 MURRAY'S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. May, MESSRS. J. AND R. MCCRACKEN'S PRINCIPAL CORRESPONDENTS. ALEXANDRIA..... The Egyptian Commercial and Trading Company-late BRIGGS & Co. ALICANTE ........ Mr. P. R. DAHLANDER. ANCONA ....... Messrs. MOORE, MORELLET, & CO. ANTWERP Messrs. F. MACK & Co. ANTWERP . ... Mr. P. VAN ZEEBROECK, Picture Dealer, &c., Rue des Rbcollets, 2076. ATHENS, PIRAEUS BADEN BADEN ... 5 Messrs. STUFFER & BINDER. Mr. F. PELIKAN'S Successor, C. RASCII. Messrs. MELLERIO FRERES. BAD EMS.......... Messrs. BECKER & JUNG. Mr. H. W. THIEL. BAGNERES DE BI- GORRE (Hautes Mr. LION GERUZET, Marble Works. Pyrenees)......... BASLE .........5 Messrs. JEAN PREISWERK & FILS. Mr. JEAN THOMMEN, Fils. Mr. J. FREY. BERLIN ......... Messrs. SCHICKLER Brothers. ...........Mr. LION M. COHN, Commre. Expediteur. BERNE ............ Messrs. A. BAUER & CO. BEYROUT ......... Mr. HENRY HEALD. BOLOGNA ......... Messrs. RENOLI, BUGGIO, & Co. Sig. L. MENI. BOMBAY ........ Messrs. LECKIE & Co. SMr. GREMAILLY Fils Ain&. BORDEAUX ....... Mr. LION GIRUZET, 44, Alldes de Tourny. Messrs. RIVIERE & Co., Place du Palais, 4. BOULOGNE S. M... Messrs. MORY, PERE, FILS, & VOGUE. Mr. A. SIRE. CALAIS............ Messrs. MORY, PERE, FILS, & VOGUE. CALCUTTA........ Messrs. GILLANDERS, AIRBUTHNOT, & Co. CANNES.......... Mr. TAYLOR. CARLSBAD ........ Mr. THONAS WOLF, Glass Manufacturer, CARRARA......... Sig. F. BIENAIN, Sculptor. CATANIA ........ Messrs. JEANS & Co. CIVITA VECCHIA. Messrs. LOWE BROTHERS, British Vice-Consulate. COBLENTZ ........ Messrs. SACHS & HOCHHEIMER, Wine Merchants. COLOGNE......... Mr. J. M. FARINA, gegeniiber dem Julichs Platz. . Messrs. Gme. TILMES & Co. CONSTANCE....... Mr. FRED. Hoz. CONSTANTINOPLE Messrs. C. S. HANSOn & Co. Mr. ALFRED C. LAUGHTON. COPENHAGEN..... Messrs. H. J. BING & SON. CORFU ............ Mr. J. W. TAYLOR. SMessrs. H. W. BASSENGE & Co. Mr. E. ARNOLD, Printseller. The DRESDEN ..........Director of the Royal Porcelain Manufactory DepOt. Mr. J. KREISS, ......... Glass Manufacturer. Madame HELENA WOLFSOHN, Schissergasse, No. 5. Mr. MORITZ MAYER, Moritz Strasse. Messrs. Exxie. FENZI & Co. Messrs. FRENCH & 00. Messrs. MA- QUAY and PAKENHAK. Sig. LUIGI RAXACCI. Mr. E. GOODBAN. FLORENCE ........ Messrs. NESTI, CARDI, & Co. Mr. ANT�. DI LuIGI PIACENTI. Mr. S. LOWE. Mr. T. BIANCHINI, Mosaic Worker. Messrs. P. BAZ- ZANTI & FIo., Sculptors, Lungo l'Arno. Sig. CARLO NOCCIoL. Mr. P. A. TACCHI's Successor, Glass Manufacturer, Zeil D, 44. FRANKFORT 0. M. Messrs. BING, Jun., & Co. Mr. F. BlHLER, Zeil D. 17. Mr. G. A. ZIPF. Messrs. SACHS and HOCHHErIMER, Wine Merchants. FRANZENSBAD.... Mr. C. J. HOFMANN. GENEVA ......... Mr. AUGst. STcELL. Messrs. GRANET, BROWN, & Co. GENOA............ Messrs. G. VIGNOLO & FIGi. Mr. A. MOSSA, Croce di Malte. (Mr. G. GIBELLI. GENT ............ Messrs. DE BUYSER FRERES, Dealers in Antiquities, March& au G Beurre, Nho. 21. GIBRALTAR ...... Messrs. ARCHBOLD, JOHNSTON, & POWERS. Messrs. TURNER & CO. HAMBURG ........ Messrs. J. P. JENSEN & CO. Messrs. SCHIR RMER & TEICHMANN. HAYRE ........... Messrs. LOUEDIN, Phre, Fils jeune, and G. CArnON. HEIDELBERG ..... Mr. PH. ZIMMERMANN. HONFLEUA ....... Mr. J. WAGNER. 1868,. MURRAY'S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER, 5 XcCRACKEN'S LIST OF CORRESPONDENTS-continued. INTERLACKEN.... Mr. J. GROSSMANN. JERUSALEM ...... Messrs. E. F. SPITTLER & Co. LAUSANNE ....... Mr. Duaos RENOU, Fils. Messrs. ALEX. MACBEAN & CO. Messrs. MAQUAY & PAKENHAM. LEGHORN. ....... Messrs. THiOMAS PATE & SONS. Messrs. GIAco. MICALI & FIGo., LEGHOR . * ** Sculptors in Alabaster and Marble. Mr. M. RIsTORI. Mr. CARLO SCAROCCI, Uffizio della Strada Ferrata. Messrs. Gio. GALLIANI & Co. LEIPZIG .......... Mr. J. E. OEHLSCHLAGER'S Successor. LISBON............ Mr. E. BounGARD. LUCERNE ......... Messrs. F. KNORR & Fils. MADRAS.......... Messrs. BINNY & Co. MALAGA......... Mr. GEORGE HODGSON. Mr. J. MARK. Mr.EMANUEL ZAMMIT. Messrs. Josh. DARMANIN & SONS, 45, Strada MALTA ........... Levante, Mosaic Workers. Mr. FORTUNATO TESTA, 92, Strada Sta Lucia. Mr. L. FRANCALANZA, 123, Strada St. Giovanni. MANNHEIM ...... Messrs. EYSSEN & CLAUS. MARIENBAD ...... Mr. J. T. ADLER, Glass Manufacturer. MARSELLES J Messrs. CLAUDE CLERC & Co. Messrs. HORACE BOUCHET & Co. MARSEILLES * ..... Mr. PHILIGRET, 7, Place du Thittre. MAYENCE ...... Mr. G. L. KAYSER, Expbditeur. Mr. W. KNUSSMANN, Cabinet Maker. MENTONE......... Mr. PALMARO, Mr. JEAN ORENGO Fils. MESSINA.......... Messrs. CAILLIER, WALKER, & CO. MILAN ........... Messrs. BUFFET & BERUTO, Piazzale di S. Sepolcro, No. 3176. ............ Messrs. FRATELLI BRAMBILLA. MONTREAL ...... Messrs. THOMPSON, MURRAY, & Co.: Messrs. DAVIE, CLARKE, & CLAYTON. MUNICH.......... f Mr. HY. WIMMER, Printseller, Theatinerstrasse, 35. Messrs. BLEICHER .......... and AIDRERS. NAPLES .......... Messrs. IGGULDEN & CO. Messrs. W. J. TURNER & Co. NEW YORK ....... Messrs. AUSTIN, BALDWIN, & Co. NICE............. Messrs. A. LACROIX & Co., British Consulate. Messrs. E. CARLONE & Co. Messrs. M. & N. GIORDAN. Mr. PAOLO GALIMBERTI, at the Red Horse, Dealer in Antiquities. NUREMBERG...... Mr. JOHN CONRAD CNOFF, Banker and Forwarding Agent. Mr. A. PICKERT, Dealer in Antiquities. OSTEND ........... Messrs. BACH & Co. Messrs. MACK and Co. PALERMO ........ Messrs. INGHAM, STEPHENS, & CO. PARIS ............. Mr. L. CHENUE, Packer, Rue Croix Petits Camps, No. 24. PAU............... Mr. J. MUSGRAVE CLAY. PISA............... Messrs. HUGUET & VAN LINT, Sculptors in Alabaster and Marble. PRAGUE......... Mr. W. HOFMANN, Glass Manufacturer, Blauern Stern. ........... Mr. A. V. LEBEDA, Gun Maker. QUEBEC .......... Messrs. FORSYTH & PEMBERTON. Messrs. ALEX. MACBEAN & Co. Messrs. PLOWDEN, CHOLMELEY, & Co. ROME ......... Messrs. FREEBORN & Co. Messrs. MAQUAY, PAKENHAM, & HOOKER. Messrs. SPADA, FLAMINI, & CO. Messrs. MACBEAN, FURSE, & Co. Mr. LUIGI BRANCHINrI, at the English College. Mr. J. P. SHEA. ROTTERDAM...... Messrs. PRESTON & CO. Messrs. C. HEMMANN & Co. Messrs. BOUTHY & Co. SANREMO ......... M. H. ASQuASCIrATI FRERES. SCHAFFHAUSEN.. Mr. FRED HOZ. SEVILLE ......... Mr. JULIAN B. WILLIAMS, British Vice-Consulate. SMYRNA ........ Messrs. HANSON & Co. ST. PETERSBURG. Messrs THOMSON, BONAR, & Co. Mr. C. KRUGER. THOUNE ......... Mr. A. H. J. WALD, Bazaar. Mr. N. BUZBERGER. TRIESTE .......... Messrs. MOORE & Co. TURIN ........... Messrs. J. A. LACHAISE & FERRERO, Rue de 1'Arsenal, No. 4: Mr. L. BOVARDI, Campo S. Fantino, No. 2000, rosso. VENICE .......... Messrs. FRERES SCHIELIN. Mr. ANTONIO ZEN. Mr. C. PONTI. Messrs. S. & A. BLUMENTHAL & Co. VEVEY ........... Mr. A. GETAZ. VIENNA.... .....S Mr. H. ULLRICH, Glass Manufacturer, am Lugeck, No. 3. .......... Messrs. J. & L. LOBMEYER, Glass Manufacturers, 940, Krrnthner VOLTERRA ....... Sig. OTTo. SOLAINI. [Strasse. WALDSHUTT...... Mr. FRED. HOZ. ZURICH ........... Messrs. WEISS zum BRACKEN. MURRAY'S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. FLORENCE. TELEMACO DI G. BIANCHINI, MANUFACTURER OF TABLES AND LADIES' ORNAMENTS OF FLORENTINE MOSAIC, LUNG' ARN0 NUOVO, 1, AND BORG' OGNISSANTI, 2,. NVITES the English Nobility and Gentry to visit his Establishment, where may always be seen numerous specimens of this celebrated and beautiful Manufacture, in every description of Rare and Precious Stones. Orders for Tables and other Ornaments executed to any Design. T. BIANCHIN l's Agents in England are Messrs. J. & R. M'CRACKEN,. 38, Queen Street, Cannon Street, E.C., London. BRIENZ -INTERLACKEN. J. GROSSMANN, SCULPTOR IN WOOD, AND MANUFACTURER OF SWISS WOOD MODELS AND ORNAMENTS, AT ENTERLACREN. IS WAREHOUSE is situated between the Belvedere Hotel and Schweizerhof, where he keeps the largest and best assortment of the above objects to be found in Switzerland. He undertakes to forward Goods to England and elsewhere. Correspondents in England, Messrs. J. & R. McCRACKEN, 38, Queen Street, Cannon Street, E.C., London.. PISA. GIUSEPPE ANDREONI, Sculptor in Alabaster and Objects of Fine Art, NO. 872, VIA SANTA MARIA, WHERE A GREAT ASSORTMENT OF FINE ARTS, SCULPTURE, &c., CAN BE SEEN. May,. MURRAY'S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. GENEVA. F. GRIVAZ, JEWELLER and LAPIDARY, No. 10, GRAND QUAI. Manufacturer of JEWELLERY and TRINKETS. Only Holde of the Opalized Topazes of Mont Blanc. AN immense choice of Jewels in the first taste will be found here, and all the Oriental Stones not mounted. This house was founded in 1837, and is recommended by many travellers who have visited it. L E G H O R N. --- HIACINTII MICALI AND SON, Sta; Francesco, No. 20. Manufactory of Marble, Alabaster, and Scagliola Tables, and DepOt of objects of Fine Arts. Their extensive Show-rooms are always open to Visitors. THEIR AGENTS IN ENGLAND ARE MESSRS. J. AND R. M'CRACKEN, 38, Queen Street, Cannon Street, E.C., ondon. MUNI H. HENRY WIMMER'S GALLERY OF FINE ARTS. PROPRIETOR, AUGUST HUMPLMAYR, 35, THEATINER STREET, Invites the Nobility and Gentry to visit his GALLERY OF FINE ARTS, containing an Extensive Collection of MO DERN PAINTINGS by the best Munich Artists, PAINTINGS ON PORCELAIN AND ON GLASS, all sorts of PHEOTOGRAPHS, ENGRAVINGS, LITHOGRAPHS, ETC., including the complete Collections of the various Galleries. Correspondents and Agents in England, Messrs. J. & R. M'CRACKEN, 38, Queen Street, Cannon Street, E.C., London. Correspondents in the United States, Messrs. KELLER & LINGG, 97, Reade Street, New York. U868. MURRAY'S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. FRA AN K FO R T. P. A. TACCHI'S SUCCESSOR, ZEIL, No. 44, SO00MRAN FANCY GLASS ARID CRYSTAL WAREEH(lOSE P. A. TACCHI'S SUCCESSOR, MANUFACTURER OF BOHEMIAN GLASS, begs to acquaint the Public that he has always an extensive Assortment in the Newest add most Elegant Designs of ORNAMENTAL CUT, ENGRAVED, GILT, & PAINTED GLASS, BOTH WHITE AND COLOURED, in Dessert Services, Chandeliers, Candelabras, Articles for the Table and Toilet, and every possible variety of objects in this beautiful branch, of manufacture. He solicits, and will endeavour to merit, a continuance of the favours of the Public, which he has enjoyed in so high a degree during a considerable number of years, P. A. TACCHI's SUCCESSOR has a BRANCH ESTABLISHMENT during the Summer Season at WIESBADEN, in the Old Colonnade, Where will always be found an extensive Selection of the newest Articles from his Frankfort Establishment. Visitors to Frankfort should not fail to pay a visit to the Show Rooms of Mr. P. A. TAccnI's SUCCESSOR. His Agents in England, to whom he undertakes to forward Pur- chases made of him, are Messrs. J. & R. M'CRACKEN, 38, Queen Street, Cannon Street, E.C., London. MJay, MURRAY'S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. COLOGNE ON THE RHINE. JOHANN MARIA FARINA, GEGENIBER DEM JULICH'S PLATZ (Opposite the Jiilich's Place), PURVEYOR TO H. M. QUEEN VICTORIA; TO H. R. H. THE PRINCE OF WALES; . TO H. M. THE KING OF PRUSSIA; THE EMPEROR OF RUSSIA; THE KING OF DENMARK, ETC. ETC., OF THE ONLY GENUINE EAU DE COLOGNE, Which gained the only Prize Medal awarded to Eau de Cologne at the Paris Exhibition of 1867. STHE frequency of mistakes, which are sometimes accidental, but for the most part the result of deception practised by intersted individuals, induces me to request the attention of English travellers to the following statement:- The favourable reputation which my Eau de Cologne has acquired, since its invention by my ancestor in the year 1709, has induced many people to imitate it; and in order to be able to sell their spurious article more easily, and under pretext that it was genuine, they pro- cured themselves a firm of Farina, by entering into partnership with persons of my names which is a very common one in Italy. Persons who wish to purchase the genuine and original Eau de Cologne ought to be parti- cular to see that the labels and the bottles have not only my name, Johann Maria Farina, but also the additional words, gegeniiber dem Jiilick's Platz (that is, opposite the Julich's Place), without addition of any number. Travellers visiting Cologne, and intending to buy my genuine article, are cautioned against being led astray by cabmen, guides, commissioners, and other parties, who offer their services to them. I therefore beg to state that my manufacture and shop are in the same house, situated opposite the Julich's Place, and nowhere else. It happens too, frequently, that the said persons conduct the uninstructed strangers to shops of one of the fictitious firms, where, notwithstanding assertion to the contrary, they are remunerated with nearly the half part of -the price paid by the purchaser, who, of course, must pay indirectly this remuneration by a high price and a bad article. Another kind of imposition is practised in almost every hotel in Cologne, where waiters, commissioners, &c., offer to strangers Eau de Cologne, pretending that it is the genuine one, and that I delivered it to them for the purpose of selling it for my account. ,The only certain way to get in Cologne my genuine article is to buy it personally at my house, opposite the Jilick's Place, forming the corner of the two streets, Unter Goldschmidt and Oben Marspforten, No. 23, and having in the front six balconies, of which the three higher ones bear my name, Johann Maria Farina. The excellence of my'inanufacture has been put beyond all doubt by the fact that the Jurors of the Great Exhibitions in London, 1851 and 1862, awarded to me the Prize Medal; that I obtained honourable mention at the Great Exhibition in Paris, 1855; and receive d the only Prize Medal awarded to Eau de Cologne at the Paris Exhibition of 1867. CoLoGNe, January, 1863. JOHANN MARIA FARINA, GEGENUBER DEM JULICH'S PLATZ. ?** My Agency in London is at MESSRS. J. & R. M'CRACKEN, 38, Queen Street, Cannon Street, E.C. I8,68. MURRAY'S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. P RAG U E. WILLIA IIOFMANN, BOHEMIAK GLASS MANUFACTURER, TO HIS MAJESTY THE EMPEROR OF AUSTRIA, HOTEL BLUE STAR, RECOMMENDS his gre sortment of Glass Ware, from his own Manufactories in Bohemia. The choic rticles in every Colour, Shape, and Description, are sold, at the same moderate prices, at his Establishments. Agents in London, Messrs. J. and R. M'CRACKEN, 38, Queen Street, Cannon Street, E.C. Goods forwarded direct to England, America, 4c. FLORENCE. JOHN AGLIETTI AND SONS, ARTISTS, GROUND FLOOR, No. 15, VIA MAGGIO, HAVE a large Collection of Ancient and Modern Original Paintings, and also Copies from the most celebrated Masters. Copies, Carved Frames, Gilt or Plain, made to order, and forwarded with despatch to all parts of the world. Correspondents in England, Messrs. J. and R. M'CRACKEN, of No. 38, Queea Street, Cannon Street, E.C., London. VIENNA. The most extensive Warehouse for Bohemian White and Coloured Crystal Glass. J. & L. LOBMEYR, GLASS MANUFACTURERS, No. 13, KARNTHNERSTRASSE. ALL kinds of Bohemian White and Coloured Crystal Glass; Table, Dessert, and other Services; Vases, Candelabras,Chandeliers, Looking-glasses; Articles of Luxury, in Crystal Glass, mounted in Bronze, and in Carved Wood. They obtained the Prize Medal at the International Exhibitions of 1862 and 1867. The prices are,fixed at very moderate and reasonable charges.-The English language is spoken. Their Correspondents in England, Messrs. J. and R. M'CRACKEN, No. 38, Queen Street, Cannon Street, E.C., London, will execute all orders with the greatest care and attention. May, MURRAY'S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. VIEN N A. BORUlttAN GLASS AND BRONZE WAREHOUSE. HEINRICH ULLRICH, LATE- WILLIAM HOFMANN, GLASS AND BRONZE MVIANUFACTURER, No. 3, LUGECK, Recommends his great assortment of Glass and Bronze Ware in the choicest articles, in every colour, shape, and description, specially adapted to the English and American taste, from his own manufactories in Bohemia and Vienna (for the Bronze). The prices are fixed at very moderate and reasonable charges. He received at the last Paris Exhibition the Silver Medal for excellent execution and very cheap prices. HEINRICH ULLRICH has a Branch Establishment during the Summer Season at BAD EN-BAD EN, No, 4, SOPHIEN STREET, NEAR TIHE ENGLISH HOTEL, where will always be found an extensive selection of the newest articles from his Vienna warehouse. The English' language is spoken, and every information given with pleasure to travellers. He sells only real Bohemian Glass, and not Hungarian Glass, which in many places is sold in substitution. Agents in Paris and New York. Agents in London, Messrs. J. and R. M'CRACKEN, 38, Queen Street, Cannon Street, E.C. ENGADINE, GRISONS, SWITZERLAND. BATHS OF ST. MORITZ. Bailway to Coire and Comno. Daily Diligences to and from Coire, Chiavenna, and Colico (Lake of Como). THESE BATHS, the highest in Europe, are open from 15th' June to 1 15th September. The waters (acidulous-chalybeate) are superior in their beneficial effects, combined with the bracing mountain air, to the similar and celebrated waters of Schwalbach, Pyrmont, Spa, &c., in all disorders characterised by a want of tone. The comfort and excellence of the Hotel Bathing and Drinking Arrangements are well known and univer- sally admitted. The spacious Boarding-houses have a covered communication with the steam- heated Baths and Springs. Church Service; saloons; telegraph.. Good causeway and frequent carriage communication with the neighbouring village of ST. MORITZ, which has also abundant and comfortable accommodation. Romantic scenery. Magnificent tours in all directions of the Alpine Valley, renowned for its sublime beauty, rich with glaciers and lakes. Perfect, durable, and unaltered conservation of the bottled waters in cases of 15 or 30 quarts (carriage free to Coire) at 10 lfr. and 18 fr.; 25 or 50 pints, 13fr. and 23fr. For a description of the Baths, see 'The Principal Baths of Switzerland and Savoy, by Edwin Lee, M.D., London.' Applications for rooms to be addressed, as much beforehand as possible, to the Director of the Hotel, and for bottled Waters to the Director of the Water Department. Agent for London- W. SCHACHT, English and Foreign Chemist, 6, Finsbury Place South, E.C. 1868. 11 FLOREN E. MESSRS. COSTA & CONTI, ARTISTS, No. 8, VIA ROMANA, Opposite the Museum of Natural History (Specola), and near the Pitti Gallery. Messrs. COSTA and CoN-T keep the largest collection in Florence of original Ancient and Modern Pictures, as well as Copies of all the most celebrated Masters. N.B.-English spoken. Correspondents in England, Messrs. J. and R. M'CRACKEN, 38, Queen Street, Cannon Street. E.C., London. MENTONE. HOTEL GRANDE BRETAGNE. F. M. DAZIANO, Proprietor. 100 BEDROOMS, 15 SITTING-ROOMS. GOOD ACCOM1M.ODATION. Beautiful and good Establishment, situated in the finest part of the Bay. HIGHLY RECOMMENDED BY ENGLISH VISITORS. ENGLISH COMFORT AND ATTENDANCE. MODERATE CHARGES. MR. AND MRS. DAZIANO SPEAK ENGLISH. VENICE. CARLO PONTI, OPTICIAN AND PHOTOGRAPHER, W no gained the Prize Medal at the International Exhibition of 1862, and whose House is acknowledged to be the first of its kind in the City, has opened a new and large Establishment in Piazza di San Marco, Procuratie Nuove, in addition to that which he keeps in the Riva dei Schiavoni, No. 4180, near the Albergo Reale Danieli. The Optical Instrument invented by him, and known under the name of the ALETOSCOPE, or MEGALETOSCOPE, has undergone such improvements as to render it (according to the judgment of intelligent persons) the most perfect thipg of its kind, both for its simple con- struction and magnificent optical effects. Correspondents in London, Messrs. J. and R. M'CRACKEN, 38, Queen Street, Cannon Street, E.C. 12 MURRAY'S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. May; ROME. R 0O s J. P. SHEA, ENGLISH HOUSE-AGENT, FORWARDING AGENT TO H.R.H. THE PRINCE OF WALES, 11, PIAZZA DI SPAGNA. At this Office persons applying for Large or Small Furnished Apartments invariably obtain correct and unbiassed information on all matters connected with Lodging-Houses, Boarding-Houses, and Household Management, while Low and Fixed Charges for practical services offer safe and satisfactory assistance to Proprietor and Tenant, as testified by the increasing confidence of English and American Travellers since the opening of the establishment in 1852. Plans and Lists of Apartments sent by Post to persons who wish to secure accommodation, or avoid inconvenience at the approach of Carnival or the Holy Week. AS CUSTOM-HOUSE AGENT, MR. SHEA clears and warehouses Baggage and other effects for travellers who, to avoid the expense of quick transit, send their things by sea or luggage-train, directed to his care. He also superintends the Packing of Works of Art and other Property intrusted to his care, and the forwarding of the same to England, &c.; and being] Agent for Messrs. Burns and Melvers' Italian line of steamers, can offer facilities on the freight of packages between Italy and England. CORRESPON DENTS- LONDON .................Messrs. J. & R. M'ORACKEN, 38, Queen Street, Cannon Street, E.C. Messrs. OLIVIER & CARR, 37, Finsbury Square. LIVERPOOL ............Messrs. STAVELEY & STARR, 9, Chapel Street. Messrs. JAS.. MOSS & CO., 78, Tower Buildings. FOLKESTONE .........Mr. FAULKNER. BOULOGNE S.M.......Mr. BERNARD, 18, Quai des Paquebots. PARIS .....................Messrs. L'HERBETTE, KANE, & CO., 8, Place de la Bourse. MARSEILLES .........Messrs. GIRAUD FRERES, 44, Rue Sainte. FLORENCE ............Messrs. HASKARD & SON. NEW3YORK .........Messrs. AUSTIN, BALDWIN, & CO., 72, Broadway. BOSTON........................Messrs. WELLS, FARGO, & CO. 1868. MURRAY'S ANDBOOKIC ADVERTISER. 13 CHAMONIX. GRAND HOTEL IMPERIAL. HOTEL D'ANGLETERRE. A HOTEL DE LA COURONNE. HOTEL DE LONDRES. The above Hotels are now the property of a JOINT-STOCK COMPANY, WITH A SUPERINTENDING COMMITTEE OF MANAGERS. The new Proprietors of these MAGNIFICENT ESTABLISHMENTS, the LARGEST AND MOST IMPORTANT AT CHAMONIX, have spared no expense in fitting them up with every comfort modern experience could suggest, as well as supplying an EXCELLENT CUISINE, under control of a FIRST-RATE PARISIAN COOK, and in forming a CELLAR OF WINES OF THE FINEST QUALITY. The Apartments have been refurnished, and the Service is organised on the model of the first Hotels in Switzerland, and is placed under the direction of a MAITRE D'HOTEL of proved experience, and fully equal to the onerous duties of his position. PRIVATE SITTING ROOMS, BATHS, AND READING ROOMS supplied with the leading Journals of Europe and America, and arrangements to satisfy every taste. 300 Rooms, ranging from 2 francs a bed and upwards. 14 - MUR;RAY'S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. May, VIS ITORS TO NAPLES. GENERAL AGENCY & COMMISSION OFFICE of the BRITISH LIBRARY (Established in 1837 by Mrs. Dorant), DIRECTED BY GEORGE CIVALLERI, Palazzo Friozzi, No. 267, Riviera di Chiaja. WORK8 OF ART, GOODS, AND LUGGAGE forwarded to and received from all parts of the world, and warehoused at moderate charges of rent. BANK BILLS, CIRCULAR NOTES, AND LETTERS OF CREDIT cashed free of commission. COUNTRY WINE& OF EVERY DESCRIXPTION, both in Bottle and in Cask, for exportation, at reduced prices. FOREiGN WINES, ENGLISH BEERBS, TEAS, �c., IMPORTED. Agency Business of every description attended to; also the PURCHASE of LANDS, HOUSES, ok VILLAS for the account of Foreigners. Correspondents in London-Messrs. OLIVIER & CARR, 37, Finsbury Square. FLORENCE. 12, LUTNG-' .A0- ETO NTOVO. MONTELATICI BROTHERS, 1anufacturrs of lurentint ET sais. ASSORTMENT OF CASKETS AND ALBUMS. COMMISSIONS AND EXPORTATION. FLORENCE. ES SENTIA L S i FOR TRAVELLING. RITCHIE, BARCHI, & CO., Thresher's India Tweed Suits. 1i xi $ & (5 xX, V r ~ Thresher's Kashmir Flannel Shirts. Thresher's Kashmir Woollen Socks. GOODS AND PARCELS Thresher's Coloured Flannel Shirts. Thresher's Travelling Bags. Carefully forwarded to all Parts of SOLD ONLY BY the World. THRESHER & GLENNY, PIAZZA SANTA TRINITA. NEXT DOOR TO SOMERSET HOUSE, 2E'IZZA MTTATRDTTA.STRAN D. 1868. MEURRAY'S HANDBOOK ADIVERTISER. 15 MURRAY'S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. VISITORS TO THE CONTINENT. OLIV-IE R & C AR, 37, Finsbury Square, London, (MR. OLIVIER ESTABLISHED IN 1830,) COMMISSION 'MERCHANTS AND GENERAL AGENTS For Shipmnnent and Reception of Goods to and from all Parts of the World, and IMPORTERS OF WINES, 4c. OLIVIER & CARR have the honour to inform VISITORS TO THE CONTINENT that they undertake to receive and pass through the Customhouse in London, Liverpool, Southampton, &c., WORKS of ART, BAGGAGE, and PROPERTY of EVERY DESCRIPTION, which are attended to onearrival with the utmost Care in Examination and Removal, under their own personal superintendence. They beg to call particular attention to their Moderate Charges, which have given universal satisfaction. Many Travellers having expressed a desire to know in anticipation to what expenses their Purchases are liable on arrival in England, the following Rates of Charges on the Reception of Packages may be relied upon, for Landing from the Ship, Clearing, Delivery in London, and Agency:- On Trunks of Baggage . . . . . . . . . . . . . . about 9s. each. On Cases of Works of Art, &c., of moderate size and value . about 15s. ,, ,, ,, ,, of larger ,, ,, 20s. to 25s. ,, Qn very large Cases of valuable Statuary, Pictures, &c., on which an estimate cannot well be given, the charges will depend on the care and trouble required. When several cases are sent together the charges are less on each case. OLIVIER & CARR undertake the FORWARDING OF PACKAGES OF EVERY KIND to the Continent, to the care of their Correspondents, where they can remain, if required, until the arrival of the owners. Also THE EXECUTION OF ORDERS FOR THE PURCHASE OF GOODS of all kinds, which, from their long experience as Commission Merchants, they are enabled to buy on the most advantageous terms. Residents on the Continent will find this a convenient means of ordering any- thing they may require from London. N.B.-The keys of locked Packages should always be sent to OLIVIER & CARR, as everything, although free of duty, must be examined by the Customs on arrival. INSURANCES EFFECTED, and Agency Business of every description attended to. 16 May, MURRAY'S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. OLIVIER & CARR'S principal Correspondents are- At Aiz.la-Chapelle . . . Messrs. A. SOUHEUR and CO. ,, Alexandria . . . . . Mr. J. W. BROWNE. ,, Antwerp .. ..... Mr. F. VERELLEN BEERNAERT. Messrs. VLEUGELS and GUFFANTI. ,,Basle....... . . Mr. J. J. FREY. , Bologna . ..... Messrs. ANTONIO MAZZETTI and CO. ,, Bordeauz . ..... . Messrs. H. and O. BEYERMAN and CO., Wine Growers. ,, Boulogne ........ .Messrs. L. BRANLY and CO., 81, Rue Napoleon. ,, Brussels . . ... Mr. G. LUYCKX, 24, Rue des Fabriques. Mr. L. STEIN, 22, Montagne de la Cour. ,, Calais .. ..... Messrs. MORY, Phre, Fils, and VOGUE. ,, Cologne .. ..... .Messrs. C. H. VAN ZUTPHEN and CO. Messrs. G. TILMES and CO. ,, Constantinople. . . . Messrs. VALSAMACHY and CO., Galata. ,, Dresden . . . . . . Messrs. KRAETSCHMER and CO. ,, Florence... ........Messrs. HASKARD and SON, 4, Borgo SS. Apostoli. Messrs. W. H. WOOD and CO. ,, Prankfort . .......Mr. MARTIN BECKER, 5, Bleidenstrasse. Mr. MORITZ B. GOLDSCHMIDT, Banker. ,, Geneva . ...... .Messrs. JOLIMAY and CO. ,, Genoa . ....... Messrs. G. B. PRATOLONGO and CO. Messrs. P. CAUVIN, DIAMANTI, and COSTA. ,, Hamburg ...... .Messrs. JULIUS WUiSTENFELD, and CO. , Havre .......... Messrs. CHR. EGLIN and MARING. ,, Interlackens. . . . . Messrs. RITSCHARD and BURKI. , Leipzig . ....... Messrs. GERHARD and HEY. ,, Leghorn ....... Messrs. HENDERSON BROTHERS. ,, Malta . . . . . . Messrs. ROSE & CO. ,, Marseilles. ..... Messrs. GIRAUD FRERES. Messrs. HORACE BOUCHET and CO. M,, Milan.. . . ... . Messrs. GIO. CURTI & FIGo. ,, Munich . . . . . . Messrs. GUTLEBEN and WEIDERT. , Naples .. ..... Mr. M. CERULLI, 267, Riviera di Chiaja.' Mr. E. STOREY, 261, Riviera di Chiaja. [le Port). ,, ice .. ...... .Messrs. LES FILS DE CH. GIORDAN, Quai Lunel, 14 (sur ,, Ostend . . . . . . Mr. J. DUCLOS ASSANIDRI. : [Martin, 43. , Paris .. ...... .Messrs. LANGLOIS FILS FRERES, Rue des Marais St. M. HECTOR L'HERBIER, 18, Rue de la Douane. ,, Pau . ...... . Mr. BERGEROT. s, Prague . ...... Mr. J. J. SEIDL, Hibernergasse, No. 1000. ,, Rome. ......... Mr. J. P. SHEA, 11, Piazza di Spagna. Messrs. TOMBINI and PRUCKMAYER. ,, Rotterdam . ..... .Mr. J. A. HOUIWENS; Messrs. P. A. VAN ES and CO. ,, Trieste . . . . . Messrs. MARTIN FRRRES. ,, Turin . ... . Mr. CHIABODO PIETRO, Via Dora Grossa, 13. ,, Venice . . . . Mr. HENRY DECOPPET. Mr. Fco TOLOMEI DI Fco ,, Vienna . . . . . . Mr. ANTON POKORNY, Stadt Sonnenfelsgasse, 2. Any other houses will also forward goods to O. & C. on receiving instructions to do so. Travellers are requested always to give particular directions that their Packages are consigned direct to OLIVIER & CARR, 37, FINSBURY SQUARE. PRICES OF WIV N E S IMPORTED BY OLIVIER AND CARR, AGENTS TO GROWERS. - - per doz. duty paid. Claret, Shipped by F. Beyerman, Bordeaux .... 18s., 24s., 30s., 36s., to 120s. Burglndy ,, Dumoulin aind, Savigny-sons-Beaune . 24s., 288., 36s., to 84s. Hock & Moselle, Jodocius Freres & Co., Coblents . 24$., 30s., 36s., to 120s. , Sparkling, ,, .. 48s. to 60s. Champagne . .....48s. to 72s. Marsala, inQr. Casks, from �11; Hhds. �21 . 26. to 0s. Sherries, Pale, Gold, or Brown, in Qr. Casks, �15 to �35, delivered 42s. to 6Os. CLAuEr, BuGnsuxY, and HOcK, in the Wood, at Growers' Prices. Detailed Price Lists may be had of 0. & C., 37, Finsbury Square. 1868. 17 CHI131UBB'S LOCKIS and SAFE S. Paris Exhibition, 1867, SILVER PRIZE MEDAL, 'For perfection of workmanship and construction of Locks, alsofor the manufacture of Iron Safes.' Dublin International Exhibition, 1865, PRIZE MEDAL AWARDED, ' For excellence of workmanship and design in Locks and Safes.' CHUBB & SON, BY APPOINTMENTS, MAKERS TO THE QUEEN, AND TO H.R.H. THE PRINCE OF WALES. C HUBB'S PATENT DETECTOR LOCKS, the most secure from picklocks and false keys, are strong, simple, and durable, and made of all sizes and for every purpose to which a Lock can be applied. Trunks, Portmanteaus, Travelling Bags, Dressing Cases, Writing Desks, &c., fitted with only the usual common and utterly insecure Locks, can have the place of these supplied by CHUBB'S PATENT without alteration or injury. TRAVELLERS LOCK-PROTECTORs and PORTABLE SCUTCHEON LOCKS for securing Doors that may be found fastened only by common Locks. CHUBB & SON have always in stock a variety of Writing and Despatch Boxes in Morocco or Russia Leather and Japanned Tin; the latter being particularly recommended for lightness, room, durability, and freedom from damage by insects or hot climates. Best Black Enamelled Leather Travelling Bags of various sizes, all with Chubb's Patent Locks. Cash, Deed, and Paper Boxes of all dimensions. ( C HUBB'S PATENT SAFES Sare constructed in the very best Thanner, of the strongest wrought-iron, fitted with CHUB3'S PATENT DRILL-PRE- VENTIVE and their GUNPOWDER-PROOF STEEL-PLATED LocKs, are the most a s I secure from fire and burglary, and form the most complete safeguard for Books, Papers, Deeds, Jewels, Plate, and other valuable property. CHUBB & SON have also strong *wrought-iron Safes,without fire-resisting lining, but equally secure in all other - 1respects, intended for holding plate where protection from fire is not an object, and affording much more room inside than _ _- the Patent Safes. They are recom- mended specially in place of the ordinary wooden cases for plate, which may so easily be broken open. B UENOS AYRES GOVERNMENT CERTIFICATE. TRANSLATION. We, the undersigned, at the request of Messrs. JAs. C. TnoPsoN & Co., certify that the hIRoN SAFES of Messrs. CHUBB & SON, London, of which these gentleman are Agents, were exposed for several hours to the Fire that took place in the offices of the National Govern- ment on the evening of the 26th instant; that in our presence they were easily opened with their respective keys: that the moneys and important documents they contained were found in perfect order, and that these Safes are now in use in the National Treasury Office.-Buenus Ayres, 31st July, 1867. (Signed) J. M. DRAGco, Treasurer of the National Government. JOSE TOMAS Rojo. JuAN M. ALVAREZ. A true copy-A. M. BELL. Complete Illustrated Priced Lists of Chubb's Locks, Boxes, Safes, and other Manufactures, gratis and yost-free. CHUBB and SON, Makers to the Bank of England, 57, St. Paul's Churchyard, London, E.C. 18 May, URRAY'S 'HNDBOOK ADVERTISER. HOTEL ET PENSION TAMINA A RAGAZ, This FIRST-cLAss H6TEL, conducted by Mr. & Mrs. RO CIAI'T, contains a great number of large and small Bedrooms, Salons, Reading and Conversation Rooms : first-class Cuisine; English, French, and German Newspapers. Hot and Cold Baths are in the H6tel. The Hotel is very well situated for Excursions on the Moun- tain ; in winter sledges. From 1st October to 1st June pension at 4 francs the day. The Hotel well heated in winter. German, French, &c., Lessons at a very moderate price. The Hotel is kept in English style, and all comfort is provided for families. Omnibus to the Station for every Train. GENEVA. H(OTEL DU LAC. Splendid view on the Lake and the Mountains'; opposite the Steamers. Especially recommended to families. Very reason- able prices. TABLE D'HOTE AT 12, 5,, and 7 O'CLOCK. H. SPAHLINGER, PROPRIETOR. MIAYENCE. H( TEL D'.ANGGLE TERRE. HENRY SPECHT, Wine Merchant and Grower. This first-rate and excellent Hotel (combining every English comfort), situated in front of the Bridge, is the nearest Hotel to the Steamboats and close to the Railway Stations. From its Balconies and Rooms are Picturesque Views of the Rhine and Mountains. Galignani, Times, and Illustrated News taken in. The Table-d'Hote is renowned for its excellence, and for its Genuine Rhenish Wines and Sparkling Hock, which Mr. Specht exports to England at Wholesale Prices, c2 1868. MURRAY'S HANDBOO0K ADVERTISER. 19 PLYMOUT H. THE ROYAL HOTEL. PATRONISED BY THE ENGLISH ;AND ALL THE CONTINENTAL ROYAL FAMILIES. FIRST-CLASS FAMILY HOTEL, SITUATED IN THE MOST COMMANDING, HEALTHFUL, AND GENTEEL QUARTER OF PLYMOUTH. Suficiently far (five minutes) from the Station to be free of its annoyances. HANDSOME COFFEE-ROOM. EXTENSIVE POSTING ESTABLISHMENT. CHARGES AS PER PRINTED TARIFF. An Omnibus attends every Train, and Carriages if ordered. S. PEARSE, PROPRIETOR. LACROIX and FALCONNET, Jt. LAUROIX, SUCCESSOR, WARRANTED WATCH MANUFACTURER, 2, BEL-AIR, 1st CARY'S IMPROVED POCKET TOURIST'S TELESCOPE. (See ' Murray's Handbook.') MANUFAdTURER of all descriptions of Mathe- matical, Surveying, and Optical Instruments, for the use of Naval and Military Officers, &c. Also the new Binocular Reconnoitring Field Glass, in Aluminium of exceeding lightness and durability, so highly spoken of by officers and other gentlemen : from 71. 7s.; ordinary metal from 21. 10s. Cary's improved Achro- matic Microscope, with two sets of choice lenses, capable of defining the severe test objects; from 41. 4s. Travelling Spectacles of all kinds. Mathematical and Optical Instrument Maker to the Admiralty, Trinity House, Royal Military College, Sandhurst, Royal Geographical Society, Christ's Hospital, Tri- nity House, King's College, &c.; and Optician to the Royal London Ophthalmic Hospital. GOULD & PORTER, Successors to CARY, 181, STRAND, LONDON. Established upwards of a Century. Floor, GENEVA. FLORENCE. -4-+---- A. HOTEL DE L'UNIVERS, VIA DI VITTORIO EMANUELE, At the western extremity of the City,. and close to the Casccine. This Hotel was only opened in November, 1866, and will be found in all respects a first-class Estab- lishment. 20 MURRAY'S HANDBOO0K ADVERTISER. May, 1868. MURRAY'S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. 21 PASSPORT AGENCY OFFICE, LONDON, 59, FLEET STREET, E. C. Regulations gratis for obtaining Foreign Office Passports. [ OUNTRY or LONDON Residents, Swho desire to avoid trouble,' can, by for- , warding a Banker's Application, or Certificate of Identity, have a PASSPORT obtained and vised. Country Residents, by this arrangement, are saved the trouble of a personal attendance, as the Pass- PORT port can be forwarded to them by Post (en Rgle). Fee obtaining Passport, Is. 6d.; Visas, is. each. Passports carefully Mounted and Cased, and Names lettered thereon in Gold. Passport Cases from 1s, 6d. to 6s. each. Every Requisite for Travellers. THE LATEST EDITIONS OF MURRAY'S HANDBOOKS. 21RADSHAW'S BRITISH and CONTINENTAL GUIDES and HANDBOOKS to France, Belgium, Switzerland, Italy, Spain and Portugal, Normandy, Brittany, Tyrol, Paris, London, &c. BRADSHAw's COMPLETE PHRASE BOOBs, French, Italian, Spanish, and German. is. each. BRADSHAnw's Overland and Through Route Guide to India, China, and Australia, 5s. BRADnsHAw'0 Handbook to the Bombay Presidency and tke North-West Provinces, Madras, and Bengal, 0ls. each. KELLAR's, LEUTHOLD'S, and ZIEGLER'S Maps of Switzerland. MAYR's MAP OF THE TYROL Original Editions. Knapsacks, Rugs, Waterproof Coats, Door-fasteners, Handbags, Portmanteaus, &c. Phrase Books and Dictionaries. HARPER'S HANDBOOx to Europe and the East. BLACK's GUIDES to England, Ireland, Wales, and Scotland. Works on Health-Resorts, Climates, and Waters. By EDwis LEE, M.D. Experienced Couriers engaged upon application. W. J. ADAMS (BRADSHAw's BRITISH AND CONTINENTAL GUIDE OFFICE), LONDON, 59, FLEET STREET, E.C. OFFICE HOURS 8 TO 7. SATURDAYS 8 TO 3. T[HE CONTINENTAt DAILY PARCELS EXPRESS (established 1849), SSOLE AGENTS for ENGLAND of the Belgian Government Railway and Royal Prussian Post, and Correspondents of the Northern of France Railway, CONVEY y MAIL STEAMERS EVERY NIGHT (Sunday excepted), via DOVER, CALAIS, and OSTEND, Samples, Parcels, and Packages of all kinds between ENGLAND and all parts of the CONTINENT, at fixed Through rates, including all charges except Duties and Entries. Tables, with full instructions to senders, to be had GRATIS, at Chief Office: 53, GRACECHURCH STREET, D. N. BRIDGE, Manager, to whom all communico tions should be addressed. AGENTS AND CORRESPONDENTS:- WEST END, 34, Regent Circus (Universal Office). 'GLOBE EXPRESS, 33, St. Paul's Churchyard, and 150, Leadenhall Street. .MANCHESTER : J. JOYNSON, 32, Cooper Street.-LIVERPooL : STAVELEY & CO., 32, Dale Street. Prussia, and all Germany.-The Post Office of each locality. Belgium.-OsTEND, 54, Rue St. Joseph: F DE RXDDER.-BaussELS, 77, Montagne de la Cour: A. Caoor.-Rue Duquesnoy and North Railway Station.-ANTwERP', GHENT, LmrGE, VEaRVIERS, and all other places in Belgium: Government Railway Station. Holland.-In all the principal Towns: VAN GEND and Loos. TFrance.-PAms, PRITCHARD and MONNERON, Agents toP. and 0. and Royal Mail Companies, 4, Rue Rossini. BOULOGNE, Rue de 1'Ecu: G. SAUVACGE. N.B.-Amount of Invoices and out charges collected on delivery of parcels in Belgium. Holland, Prussia, and other States of the Zoliverein; and persons wishing to obtain goods of any kind from the Continent can have them sent through this Express "CONTRE RE BOURSE- WENT," i.e. Payment on delivery. London, 53, Gracechurch Street, l1t May, 1868. Stanford's Foreign Office Passport Agency, 6, CHARING CROSS, LONDON, S.W. - - --... Passports (Which are good for life) . mounted on Muslin or Silk, in Roan, EDWAIRD STANFORD Morocco, or Russia Case, with the f name of the Owner lettered pn the 1outside, thus preventing injury or SPASSPORT. loss, as well as lessening the delay in examination abroad. - For further particulars, including the Forms of Application, Cost of Passport, Visas, &c. &c., see Stan- ford's Passport Circular, which will be forwarded per post on ' receipt of One Stamp. STANFORD'S TOURIST'S CATALOGUE, Containing Title, Price, &c., of the Best GUIDE BOOKS, MAPS, CONVERSATION BOOKS, DICTION- ARIES, &c. &c., published in the United Kingdom, the Continent, and America, Gratis on application, or free per post for One Stamp. LONDON: EDWARD STANFORD, 6, CHARING Caoss, S.W., Agent for the Sale of the Ordnance Maps, Geological Survey Maps, and Admiralty Charts. ' BADEN-BADEN. H6tel de Hollande : Proprietor, A. Roessler. THIS favourite and first-class Hotel, situated near the Kursaal, Pro- menade, and Theatre, commands one of the most charming views in Baden. The increase of business rendering it necessary to enlarge the Hotel, it now consists of more than a hundred sleeping apartments, elegant sitting-rooms, and a garden for the use of visitors. Comfortable Public Sitting Rooms. It is con- ducted under the immediate superintendence of the Proprietor, who endeavours, by the most strict attention and exceedingly moderate prices, to merit the continued patronage of English visitors. ' The Times' and other Journals. The Wines of this Hotel are reputed of the best quality in Baden. Fixed moderate charges for everything. Breakfast, 42 krs. Table d'Hbte at One, 1 fl. 24 kr.; at Five, 1 fl. 48Jr. Mr. AUGUSTUs, remaining sole Proprietor, will spare no pains to deserve the confidence of English Travellers. English is spoken. Open during the Winter. BERLIN. H TEL 0 ROYAL. Proprietor: Mr. FRIEDRICH LANGE, UNTER DEN LINDEN, No. 3, and corner of Wilhelm Street. This Hotel is in the best situation of the town, near the Promenade, the King's Theatre, the Museum, &c.; it is most elegantly furnished, and offers good accommodation for all classes of travellers. Saloons and large apartments for Families. Waterworks and Baths in the Hotel. Carriages. Table d'h8te at 3. Private dinners and suppers at any hour. Good English cuisine, and French restaurant in an elegant saloon. Prompt attendance and mod e- rate prices. 2 MUIRRAY'S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. May, 1868. MURRAY'S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. 23 CD v 0 0 0 0 PATENT C- [CORN FLOUR Paisley, Manchester, Dublin, & London. This favourite article of Diet is especially suitable for PUDDINGS, CUSTARDS, BLANOMANGES and, being very light and of easy digestibility, it is recommended for BREAKFASTS, SUPPERS, &c., for which it is easily prepared, requiring only to be boiled with milk for eight minutes. It is preferred for all the purposes to which the best Arrowroot is applicable, and prepared in the same manner. For various purposes, such as to thicken Soups, Sauces, Beef-tea, &c., it is invaluable, and extensively used in all parts of the world. OAUTION.-To obtain extra profit by the sale, other kinds are sometimes substituted instead of BROWN and POLSON'S. 0s m, 0{ m 24 MURRAY'S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. May, BONN ON THE RHINE. MR. SCHMITZ, PROPRIETOR OF THE GOLDEN STAR HOTEL, BEGS leave to recommend his Hotel to English Travellers. The apart- ments are furnished throughout in the English style; the rooms are carpeted; and the attendance, as well as the kitchen and the wine- cellar, is well provided. MR. SCHMITZ begs to add that at no first- rate Hotel on the Rhine will be found more moderate charges and more cleanliness. The STAR HOTEL has been honoured by the visits of the following Members of the English Royal Family :- (H. R. H. the Prince of WALES, accompanied by General Sir W. CODRI eGTON, 1857. Oct. 16 Colonel PONsoNBY, Sir Frederic STANLEY, Dr. ARMSTRONG, Rev. F. C. TARVER, Mr. GIBBS, etc. 1857. Aug. 20 H. R. H. the Prince of WALES and his Suite paying a visit at the Golden { Star Hotel to His Majesty the King of the BELGIANS. 1857. Aug. 8 H. R. H. the Prince of WALES and his Suite. 1857. July 29 T. R. H. the Duchess of CAMBRIDGE and Princess MARY of CAMBIDGE, S accompanied by the Baron KNESEBECK and Suite. 1857. July 29 H. R. H. the Prince of WALES paying a visit at the Golden Star Hotel to T1857. July 29 . R. H. the Duchess of CAMBRIDGE and Princess MARY of CAMBRIDGE. SH. R. H. the Prince of WALES, accompanied by the Right Honourable C. 1857. July 15 GREY, General MAJOR, Colonel PONSONsY, Sir Frederic STANLEY, Dr. ARMSTROxNG, Rev. F. C. TARVER, Mr. GIBBS, etc. 1858. NOV. {H. R. H. Prince ALFRED of GREAT BRITAIN, accompanied by Lieutenant. SGeneral Sir Frederick STovni and Lieutenant COWELL. H. M. ADELAIDE, QUEEN DOWAGER OF GREAT BRITAIN, accompanied by His Highness Prince EDWARD of SAXE WEIMAR, Lord and Lady BAR- 1846. June 18 RINGTON, Sir DAVID DAVIES, M.D., Rev. J. R. WooD, M.A., Captain 1818. May. . H. R. H. the Duke of CAMBRIDGE and Suite. 1825. March 5 H. R. H. the Duke and Duchess of CLARENCE (King WILLIAM IV. and and Sept. .( Queen ADELAIDE) and Suite. H. M. QUEEN ADELAIDE, accompanied by the Earl and Countess of ERROL, 1834. July. * Earl and Countess of DENBIGH, Earl and Countess HOWE, &c. 1836. Aug. . H. R. H. the Duchess of GLOUCESTER and Suite. 1837. July . H. R. H. the Duchess of CAMBRIDGE and Suite. 1839. Nov. . H. R. H. the Prince GEORGE of CAMBRIDGE and Suite. .{ H. . H. Prince ALBERT of SAXE COBURG GOTHA, accompanied by Prince - Nov. ERNEST of SAXE COBURG GOTHA, and their Suite. 140. H, R. H. the Duchess of CAMBRIDGE, accompanied by the Princess AUGUSTA 1840. ..* of CAMBRIDGE, and their Suite. H. R. H. the Duchess of KENT and Suite, accompanied by H. S. H. the 1841. *. . Prince of LEININGEN. S841. . . . . H. R. H. the Duchess of CAMBRIDGE and Suite. S. . . H. R. H. Princess CAROLINA of CAMBRIDGE. 1844. . . . H. R. H. the Duchess of CAMBRIDGE and Suite. . .. H. R. H. Princess MARY of CAMBRIDGE. . H. R. H. the Duchess of KENT and Suite, accompanied by H. S. H. the 1845. June Prince of LEININGEN. 1847. July T. R. H. the Duke and Duchess of CAMBRIDGE, with their Family and 1847 Jul - Suite* MUDIE'S SELECT LIBRARY. BOOKS FOR ALL READERS. FIRST-0CLA 8 8BSORIPTION FOR A CONSTANT SUCCESSION OF THE NEWEST BOOKS, One Guinea per .Annu mn, COMMENCING AT ANY DATE. BOOK SOCIETIES SUPPLIED ON LIBERAL TERMS. CHEAP BOOKS.-NOTICE, FIFTEEN THOUSAND VOLUMES OF BOUND BOOKS FOR PRESENTS AND PRIZES. O1SISTING CHIEFLY OF WORKS OF THE BEST AUTHORS, AND MORE THAN ONE HUNDRED THOUSAND VOLUMES of Surplus Copies of Books of the Past Season, ARE NOW ON SALE AT GREATLY REDUCED PRICES. Catalogues postage free on Application. MUDIE'S SELECT LIBRARY, New Oxford Street, London. CITY OFFICE-4, King Street, Cheapside. LAKE OF COMO, BELLAGIO. G-REAT BRITAIN ITOTEL. ARGE and Small Apartments, Reading, Billiard, and Smoking Rooms, Baths in the Hotel and on the Lake. Divine Service according to the Established Church throughout the year. This hotel is beauti- fully situated, enjoying at once a full and splendid view of the Lake rand of the villas Melzi, Serbelloni, and Sommariva. The Hotel, having been recently enlarged, will afford every possible comfort to strangers during their stay on the Lake. Telegraph office in the Hotel, Proprietor : A. MELLA. N U REMBERO. RED HORSE HOTEL (Rothes Ross), PROPRIETOR : M. P. GALIMBERTI. This excellent old-established Hotel, situated in one of the best quarters of the town, is well adapted for Tourists and Families making a visit to Nuremburg of some duration, and who will find every conceivable comfort and convenience. Table-d'H6te at 1 r.am., and Private Dinners at all hours. The Establishment will be found well worthy of the renown and patronage it has enjoyed from English travellers of the highest rank during many years. 1868. MURRAY'S HADBOOK ADVERISER. 25 26 MURRAY'S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. May, ANTWERP. HOTEL DE L'EUROPE, Next to the Post Office. THE MOSTr AGIREEABLE SITUATION IN THE TOWn. Formerly Hotel du Pare. THIs Hotel has been rebuilt, a magnificent Salle a manger added, as well as many Bed and Sitting Rooms, entirely new furnished and redecorated; and the present Proprietor spares no exertion to render it one of the most popular hotels on the Continent. Excellent Table d'H6te. Hot and Cold Baths. Stabling and Coach-House. English and French Newspapers. BORDEAUX. HOTEL DE NANTES. FInsT-cLAssHOTEL,most delightfully situated, facing the Port, in the centre of the City, near the Promenades, the Exchange, and Theatres, has a 'good Restaurant and a large Stock of Wines. Large and Small Apartments, Sitting Boonm for Conversation, &c. a&c. Attendants speaking several languages. OXFORD. SPIERS AND SON, 102 & 103, HIGH STREET, Respectfully invite TOURISTS to VISIT their Extensive Warehouses for Useful and Ornamental Manufactures, suitable for Pre- sents and remembrances of Oxford. Copies of every published Guide-Book and Map of the City and neighbourhood kept. Photographs, &c., kept in stock. Inventors and Manufacturers of the cele- brated "Oxford Cyclopean Washstands." Information relative to Oxford afforded to strangers visiting their establishments. FLORENCE. P. ROMANELLI, Sculptor, Pupil of, and Successor to, the late Professor Bartolini, has opened a Gallery, Lung' Arno Guicciardini, No. 7. The intelligent amateur will find there a Collection of Statues, both originals and copies, artistically executed. PaRIcIPA WORKS :-The Son of William Tell ; the Young Franklin; the Young Wash- ington ; the Young Whittington; the Young Napoleon ; the Young Moses ; Garibaldi. L U C E R N E. GALIGNANI'S ENGLISCHER HO.-HOTEL NEW PARIS GUIDE. d'ANGLETERRE, o- Proprietor-JEAN REBER. Compiled from the best authorities, revised and verified by personal inspection, and ar- ranged on an entirely new plan, with Map rpHIS First-rate Establishment, very and Plates. Royal 8lmo. 10s. 6d. bound ; or 1 well recommended by the best class of with Map only, 7s. 6d. bound. Travellers, is situated close to the Steamers' London : SIMPKIN, MARSHALL, & CO. Ldnding-place, and vis-a-vis the Railway Sta- tions, on the loveliest position of the Lake, with superb views of the Rigi, Pilatus, Alps, and Glaciers; contains several Saloons, 62 ROTTERDAM. comfortable Rooms, Smoking and Reading o Rooms, where are French and English news- papers. H. A. KRAMERS, Charge for Rooms per diem, Ifr. 50c. Importer of Foreign Books. to 3fr. Table d'Hote,' at 1 . . 3fr. Mr. MURRAY's ' Handbooks for Travellers, 3 BRADSHAw's Monthly Railway Guides, BAE- ,, ,, 4'30 .. 4fr. DEKER's 'Reischandbiicher,' and HENDS- ,, ,, 7'30 . . 3fr. CHEL's ' Telegraph,' always in Stock. dne' Times,' -gsani,' 'l'ne English, French, and German Books im- The Times,' Galnani, 'depen- ported Weekly, and a great variety of New dance,' the 'Bund,' and other German, Books kept in Store. French, and American papers are taken for the Reading Room, 47, GELDERSCHE KADE. 26 MURRAY'S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. May, MURRAY'S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. By Appointment to H. R. H. The Prince of Wales. ALLE N'S P O RTMANTEAUS. 37, WEST STRAND, LONDON, W.C. ILLUSTRATED CATALOGUES of 500 ARTICLES Post Free. ALLEN'S PATENT ALLEN'S PATENT BAG. DESPATCH-BOX DESK. 'S SOLID LEATHER DRESSING-CASE. a' - ALLEN'S PATENT Quadruple Portmanteau. RAILWAY PORTMANTEAU. 4 +. I Il =E N 5n4 1r ALLEN'S ALLEN'S SOLID LADY'S DRESSING BAG. MAHOGANY WARDROBE DRESSING-CASE. PORTMANTEAU. ALSO Allen's Barrack Furniture Catalogue, for Officers joining, Post Free. PRIZE MEDAL AWARDED, 1862, FOR GENERAL EXCELLENCE. 1868. 27 IRELAN D. AlTRI1VIM A.II, MS HlOTE L, PORTRUSH. THIS Hotel is beautifully situated, having an uninterrupted . view of the ATLANTIC OCEAN, the GIANT'S CAUSEWAY, the SKERRIES, and LOUGH FOTLE. It contains upwards of 100 Apartments, Principally facing the Sea. A NOBLE OOFFEE-FOOM, with Drawing-Room attached, equally available for Ladies and Gentlemen. Table d'Hote daily during the Season. Cuisine and Wines First-Class. Terms moderate. French spoken. Billiard and Smoking Rooms. THE SEA BATHS, Recently rebuilt on the Hotel Grounds, by Mr. BROWN, will be found to contain every modern improvement. Separate Apartments for Ladies and Gentlemen. Hot, Cold, Shower, and Douche Baths. The Superintendents in each Department being people of experience, visitors to the Baths may depend on every attention. Extensive Posting and Livery Establishment in connection with the Hotel A Vehicle to the Giant's Causeway and back daily during the Season. Visitors to the Hotel are respectfully requested to be particular in inquiring for the ANTRIM ARMS HOTEL Omnibus. It attends all Steamers and Trains, for the conveyance of Passengers to the Hotel free. J. BROWN, PROPRIETOR. Portrush is the nearest Railway Station to the Giant's Causeway. London and South-Western Railway. LONDON STATION, WATERLOO BRIDGE. The Cheap and Picturesque Route to PARIS, ROUEN, HONFLEUR, AND CAEN, Vid SOUTHAMPTON and HA VRE. Every Monday, Wednesday, and Friday, the last Train from London at 9 p.m. Fares throughout (London and Paris)-FmsT CLAss, 3 0/O0; SECOND CLASS, 22/0. Return Tickets (available for one month)-FsRT CLASS, 50/; SECOND CLASS, 36/. JERSEY, GUERNSEY, AND ST. MALO, MAIL SERVICE, Vid SOUTHAMPTON-The favourite Route. Every Monday, Wednesday, and Friday. Fares throughout (London and Jersey or Guernsey)-32/O FIRST; 23/0 SECOND CLASS. Return Tickets (available for One Month)-8/O FIRST; or 38/0 SECOND CLASS. The Last Train from London in time for the Steamers leaves at 9 p.m. For further information apply to Mr. De Voulle, 3, Place Vend6me, Paris.--Mr. Langstaff, 47, Grand Quai, Havre.-Mr. Enault, Honfleur.-Mr. E. D. Le Couteur, Jersey.-Mr. Spencer,. Guernsey.-Captain Gaudin, St. Malo.-Or to Mr. E. K. COR E�, Steam Packet Superintendent, Southampton. MURRAY'S. HANDBOOK~ ADVERTISER. 28 May, FURNITURE FOR INDIA, CHIINA, &c. REAL & SON Manufacture, ESPECIALLY FOR EXTREME CLIMATES, SOLID; MAHOGANY FURNITURE, Entirely free from Veneer. A large general assortment always on view. IRON AND BRESS BEDTEMS In the Choicest Designs. 2500 Bedsteads kept in Stock. NEAL & 80&8S Prevents the material from felting into a mass, as is the case in all ordinary Mattresses. The Patent Mattresses are made of the very best Horsehair, are thicker than usual, and the prices are but a trifle higher than those of other good Mattresses. ILLUSTRATED CATALOGUES Of Bedsteads and" Bedroom Furniture, designed for INDIA and the EAST, sent Post Free to every part of the World. REZAL & $O0 N, BEDSTEAD, BEDDING, AND BEDROOM FURNITURE MANUFACTURERS, 196, 197, 198, TOTTENHAM-COURT-IROAD, LONDON, W. 1868. .MURRAY'S HNDBOOK AD)VERTISER. 29 rg4t grithy & arvantilt gua~irana E mpany. ESTABLISHED in 1809. Incorporated by Royal Charter and Special Acts of Parliament. CAPITAL, TWO MILLIONS. ACCUMULATED FUNDS ....................... �2,754,237. ANNUAL REVENUE ........................... �712,848. DIRECTORS. JOHN WHITE CATER, Esq., Chairman. CHAS. MORRISON, Esq., Deputy Chairman. P. Du Prb GRENFELL. Esq. JAS. DU BUISSON, Esq. A. KLOCKMANN. Esq. GEORGE YOUNG, Esq. JOHN MOLLETT, Esq. A. H. CAMPBELL, Esq. M.P. J. S. MORGAN, Esq. PHILIP C. CAVAN, Esq. J. H. W. SCHRODER, Esq. GEORGE G. NICOL, Esq. Manager.-G. H. WHYTING. I Foreign Superintendent.-G. H. BURNETT. Manager of Life Department.-A. J. RUSSELL. Secretary,-F. W.LANCE. General Manager.-DAVID SMITH. LIFE DEPARTMENT. THE PRINCIPLES on which this Company was founded, and on which it continues to act, combine the system of Mutual Assurance with the safety of a large Protecting Capital and Accumulated Funds, and thus afford all the facilities and advantages which can prudently be offered by any Life Assurance Office. Under these principles the business of the Company continues rapidly to increase. NINETY PER CENT. of the WHOLE PROFITS is divided among the Assured on the Participating Scale. The PROFITS are divided every five years. NEXT DIVISION 31st December, 1870. POLICIES INDISPUTABLE after Five Years. Every facility given for Foreign Travel and Residence. ANNUITIES of all kinds are granted, and the Rates fixed on the most favour- able terms. FIRE DEPARTMENT. PROPERTY OF EVERY DESCRIPTION, at Home and Abroad, Insured at the most moderate Rates. The NETT PREMIUMS for 1867 amounted to �333,984. The INCREASE on the amount of Fire Insurance Duty paid by this Company during the year 1866 as compared with 1865 was larger than that of any other Company in the United KIingdom. Prospectuses and every information can be obtained at the LONDON: 61, THREADNEEDLE STREET, E.C. ,, West-End Office: 8, Waterloo Place, S.W. EDINBURGIHI: 64, PRINCES STREET. 30 MURRAY'S H[ANDBOOK ADVERTISER. May, BERNE (Switzerland). J. HI. HELLER'S EXHIBITION OF HI8 CELEBRATED MUSICAL BOXES OF EVERY DESCRIPTION, And of SCULPTURES in WOOD, SWISS WOOD MODELS and ORNAMENTS in the] richest Style. Mr. J. H. HELLER"at Berne, Manufacturer of the celebiated Swiss MUSICAL BOXES with the latest improvements, &c. &c., begs to invite the Nobility and Gentry of England, travelling in Switzerland, to visit his well-known Establishmient at Berne, where will be found the largest and richest assortment of his celebrated-MUSICAL BOXES, playing from 2 to 75 airs, with or without Chimes, Drums, Chimes and Castagnettes, Celestial Voices, Mandolines, Expressives, &c.; and an extensive Selection of Swiss SCULPTURES IN WOOD, Swiss Chalets, Cuckoo-clocks, Drawing-room Clocks, Tables, Chairs, &c., and every possible variety of objects in this beautiful branch of Manufacture. Vr. Heller's Correspondent and Sole Agent for Great Britain and Ireland and the Colcnies is MR. F. W. HEINTZ IN LONDON, 102, London Wall, E.C., to whom purchases. made of Mr. HELLER will be forwarded exclusively, and who will be happy to undertake the safe delivery of all ar:icles intrusted to his care. 1868. MURRA'S HANDBOOK ADVERTSER. 31 A HOTEL VITTORIA. This Hotel, founded in 1823, occupies a magnificent position in the finest quarter of the City, with- the sea on the south, the Public Garden and the Riviera di Chiaja on the east, and enjoys a well-merited reputation. It has the means of accommodating a large number of families as well as single men. Several large salons adjoin the most complete appartements, richly decorated with artistic taste, and'adoxned with remarkable paintings. Meals at Table-d'hote or in the private apartments. The Proprietor begs to observe that, while the resources of an Hotel so much frequented enable him to entertain travellers in the most sumptuous fashion, those who travel with a due regard to economy may profit by the excellent cuisine and service of the Hotel, and yet be furnished with smaller rooms and a rez-de- chaussde at moderate prices. DIJO1 . A HOTEL DU JURA MR. D AVID, PROPRIETOR. This Hotel, which has been considerably enlarged, is a first-class house, and the nearest to the Railway Station. Contains five Salons, sixty Bed-rooms en suite, for families, Drawing-room, Smoking-room. Table-d'hite; Private Service. Carriages for Drives; Omnibus to all the Trains. French, English, and German Papers. English and German spoken. Bureau de Change in the Hotel, where English Bank Notes can be exchanged. A first-rate cellar of the finest Burgundy Wines. 32 MIURRAY'S HANDBOOK AD'VERTISER. May, FOREIGN BOOKS AT FOREIGN PRICES. TRAVELLERS may save expense and trouble by purchasing Foreign Books in England at the same prices at which they are published in Germany or France. WILLIAMS & NORGATE have published the following CATALOGUES of their Stock:- 1. CLASSICAL CATALOGUE. 10. N A T UR AL Hl S T O R Y 2. T HEO O GICAL CATA- CATALOGUE. Zoology, Bo- LOGUE. tany, Geology, Chemistry, Mathe- matics, &c. 3. FRENCH CATALOGUE. 11. MEDICAL CATALOGUE. 4. GERMAN CATALOGUE. Medicine, Surgery, and the Depen- dent Sciences. 5. EUROPEAN LINGUISTIC 12. SCHOOL CATALOGUE. Ele- CATALOGUE. mentary Books, Maps, &c. 6. ORIENTAL CATALOGUE. 13. FOREIGN BOOK CIRCU- 7. ITALIAN CATALOGUE. LARS. New Books, and New Purchases. 8. SPANISH CATALOGUE. 14. SCIENTIFIC-BOOK CIRCU- 9. ART-CATALOGUE. Art,Archi- LARS. New Books and Recent tectute, Painting, Illustrated Books. Purchases. ANY CATALOGUE SENT POST-FREE FOR ONE STAMP. WILLIAMS & NORGATE, Importers of Foreign Books, 14, HENRIETTA STREET, COVENT GARDEN, LONDON, and 20, SOUTH FREDERICK STREET, EDINBURGH. SGENEVA. MOULINIE AND LEGRANDROY'S WATCHMAKING ESTABLISHMENT, Founded in the Year 1809, 23, Quai des Bergues, Geneva, and 99, Strand, (Oppositd Exeter Hall;) London. CHRISTIAN LANG E, Sole Agent. rHIS respectalf firmn one Qf the oldest in Geneva, recommends itself for its T excellent productions in WATCHMAKING, for which it has obtained first-class prizes at nearly all the Universal Exhibitions. They are makers to nearly all European Courts. FLORENCE. Messrs. Anthony Sasso & Son, Artists, 4, VIA DI BORGO OGNISSANTI, Distinguished with Medals at the Italian Exhibition of 1861, keep the most beautiful and rich Private Gallery in the City, of ancient and modern original pictures, copies of the most celebrated pictures in the Public Galleries, water-colour paintings, and beautiful ancient carved cabinets, &c. ENGLISH SPOKEN. Agents and Correspondents in England and America- Messrs. J. & R. MOCCRAKEN, 38, Queen Street, Cannon Street London, E C. Messrs. DUNCAN, SHIRMAN, & CO., and Messrs. AUSTIN, BALDWIN, & CO., New York. D _868 MURRArS HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. 33 HEI DELBERG. PRINCE OHARLES HOTEL. (In the Market Place, nearest to the Castle.) WITH THE BEST VIEW OF THE RUINS. r"HIS first-class Family Hotel, patronised by their Royal L Highnesses the Prince and Princess of Wales and Prince Alfred, is without question the largest and best situated Establishment in the town for families and individuals who visit the celebrated Castle, or making a longer stay, being near all the attractive points, and at the foot of the Castle. It contains large and small apartments of all descriptions; its rooms are light, airy, cheerful, and truly comfortable; and the Hotel is conducted on the most liberal scale under the personal superintendence of the Proprietor, Mr. C. H. SOMMER. Superior Table-d'hdte at 1 P.M. and 5 P.M. Warm Baths in the Hotel. Reading-room supplied with London' Times,' and ' Galignani's Messenger.' Two Dining-rooms (in one of them no smoking allowed). Fresh trout in the pond. Prices moderate. English spoken. BERLIN. H(^)TEL D'ANGLETERRE, 2, PLACE AN DER BAUACADEMIE, 2. SITUATED IN THE FINEST AND MOST ELEGANT PART OF THE TOWN, Next to the Royal Palaces, Museums, and Theatres. Single travellers and large families can be accommodated with entire suites of Apartments, consisting of splendid Saloons, airy Bedrooms, &c., all furnished and carpeted in the best English style. First-rate Table-d'H8te, Baths, Equipages, Guides. Times and Galignani's 5fessenger taken in. Residence of Her British Majesty's Messengers. R. SIEBELIST, Proprietor. DAR MSTADT. HOTEL DE DARMSTADT. PROPRIETOR--MR. L. WEINER. FIRST-CLASS ESTABLISHMENT FOR FAMILIES AND TOURISTS. RECOMMENDABLE IN ALL RESPECTS. FRANKFORT O. M. MR. C. A. LOHR, PROPRIETOR OF THE ROMAN EMPEROR HOTEL, Begs to recommend his House to English Travellers. This large and well-situated Establishment is conducted under the immediate superintendence of the Proprietor, and newly furnished with every comfort, and a new splendid Dining-room. The "ROMAN EMPEROR" is often honoured by Royal Families and other high personages. The following have lately honoured this Hotel- H.M. THE KING AND QUEEN OF WURTEMBERG. H.M. THE QUEEN OF HOLLAND. H.R.H. THE CROWN PRINCE AND PRINCESS OLGA OF WURTEMBERG. H.I.H. THE ARCHDUKE OF AUSTRIA. &c. &c. &c. Table-d'h6te at 1, i1. 3SOkr. Breakfast, 42kr. , . 5, 28. Tea, 42kr. Bed Rooms, from 1. to 31. MURRAY'S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. 34 May, REMARKABLE CURE of CAPT. SAUNDERSON. " Chronicle Office, Coleraine, January 20th, 1868. "GENTLEMEN,-A remarkable case of Rheumatism has come under my notice to-day, and, as I have permission to send it to you for publication, I do so, hoping it may benefit others. "Mr. William Saunderson, Captain of the schooner ' Mary Maria,' of Newcastle-on-Tyne, at present taking in cargo at Portrush, purchased of me a box of PARR'S LIFE PILLS, and he told me that three months ago he was obliged to use crutches to enable him to walk, and that he suffered greatly from Rheumatism. A friend of his, seeing him in this sad state, advised him to try PARR'S PILLS; he did so, and before he had finished taking the first box he threw aside the crutches. He is now active and strong, and can walk miles without resting. Since he commenced taking the Pills he has gained eleven pounds in weight, looks younger, and feels better in every way. "I am, Gentlemen, yours truly J. M'COMBIE." Sole Proprietors, T. ROBERTS & CO., 8, Crane Court, Fleet Street, London. PARR'S LIFE PILLS may be obtained of any Medicine Vendor, in boxes, Is. ld., 2s. 9d., and in Family Packets, 11s. each. Directions with each box. BRISTOL. ROYAL HOTEL, COLLEGE GREEN. Containing 120 Apartments, situate in the most pleasant part of the City, near all the Public Buildings, and in the main thoroughfare from the Railway Station to Clifton. (FAMILY ,AND COMMERCIAL.) W. SWANSON, MIanager. The Bristol Collepe Green SWA SON, Manager. Eotel Company, Limited. LYNTON, NORTH DEVON. THE VALLEY OF ROCKS HOTEL. JOHN CROOK, PROPRIETOR, This First-class Hotel combines with Moderate Charges all necessary means for the accom- modation and comfort of Families and Tourists. The Private Sitting Rooms range in a long front, overlooking the Sea, and looking into the Private Grounds of the Hotel. Here the visitor commands extensive and uninterrupted views of the Bristol Channel, the Welsh Coast,'and the Valleys of the East and West Lynn, &c. The Hotel is also most conveniently situate as a centre for the visiting of all the places of interest in the district. Good Post Horses and Carriages of various descriptions are kept. Coaches during the season to Ilfracombe, Barnstaple, and the West Somerset Railway. BORDEAUX. H bTEL DES PRINOES ET DE LA PAIX. GREMAILLY FILS AINi, PROPRIETOR. This is an Hotel of the first rank, in the centre of the town, facing the Grand Theatre and the Prefecture. Excellet Table-d'hote at Six. Restaurant and Private Dinners at moderate prices. The Times newspaper. -Correspondents in London-Messrs. J. & R. MCCRACKEN, 38, Queen Street, Cannon Street, E.C. N.B.--The various types of the MiDoC WINEs may be tasted in this Hotel, D2 1868. MURRAY'S HANDBOOK~ ADVERTISER. 35 36 MURRAY'S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. May, MILAN. HOTEL GRANDE BRETAGNA, VIA TORINO. 1Near the Cathedral, in the centre of the City. This old-established Hotel, much improved of late, is clean, comfortable, and with moderate charges, close to the English Church. Newspapers (' The Times' and ' Galignani '), Table-d'h6te, and Baths. English spoken. N.B.-The Omnibus of the Hotel is always in attendance at the Railway Station. ELECTRICITY IS LIFE. NATURE'S Remedy rendered applicable to the Cure of all NERVOUS AILMENTS, INDIGESTION, HEAD COMPLAINTS, DEPRESSION OF SPIRITS, GIDDINESS, &c. &c., by means of THE PATENT ELECTRIC BELTS, which supply the system with VITAL ELECTRICITY, and that without useless machines, batteries, shocks, plates, or wires. Full details free. Call or write. Mr. H. JAMES (Medical Electrician to the Hospitals), Percy House, Bedford Square, London. ELECTRICITY. This Life Invigorator acts not only on the diseased or relaxed Vessels, but also on the Blood, supplying the system with vital ELECTRICITY, thus arousing and equalising the vital Forces, and moreover is sanctioned and approved by the highest Medical authorities. Vide Guy's Hospital Reports, also' Philosophical Transactions,' ' Lancet,' 'Medical Times,' &c. &c. These records are a Guarantee to Invalids as to the SAFETY and EFIICACY of ELECTRICITY which may be tested GRATIS. (Letters receive prompt attention.) GENOA. A HOTEL DES QUATRE NATIONS. CEVASCO BROTHERS, Proprietors. THis Hotel can be strongly recommended: it is in one of the best situations in Genoa, and travellers will find there very good rooms, moderate charges, cleanness, excellent Table-d'h6te, as well as private service1 with great attention and civility; the comfort of visitors being consulted. Engl4ih spoken by the Proprietor. 36 MURRAY'S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. May, SWITZERLAN D. FALLS OF THE RHINE, near SCHAFFHAUSEN. HOTEL SCHWEIZERHOF (formerly Hotel Weber). Mr. WEGENSTEIN, Proprietor. THIS large and justly renowned first-class Establishment, most charmingly situated opposite the celebrated falls, and surrounded by beautiful gardens and shaded walks, commands splendid views of the glaciers and of the lovely scenery around. It is very clean and comfortable. The SCHWEIZERHOF will be found to merit its high reputation and the continued patronage of English visitors. Ladies' Sitting-room, Read- ing, Billiard, and Smoking rooms. English Church Service in the Hotel. Boarders taken by the week. Croquet-ground. Good fishing. INTERLAKEN. A HOTEL BELVEDERE. KEPT BY J. MULLER. THIS First-class Establishment has long been renowned as one of the most comfortable and best managed Hotels in Switzer- land. Beautifully situated, with splendid views of the Jungfrau. Large and small apartments. The principal European newspapers, including the 'Times' and ' Galignani.' Good Table and active Attendants. NUREMBERG. HOTEL DE BAVIERE (BAYERISCHER HOF). HIS old-established, first-class, and best situated Hotel, in the Scentre of the town, close to the river, contains suites of apartments and single rooms, all elegently furnished in the new style. It is patronised by thd most distinguished families. English Divine Service during the season. Foreign newspapers. Carriages in the Hotel Omnibus to and from each train. Moderate and fixed prices. 1868. MURRAY'S HANDBOOK( ADVERTISER. 37 FRANKFORT O. M. PRIZE-MEDAL, LONDON, 1862. ARMS SILVER of the City of S Sjl SHORN :FRANIiFORT, SPECIAL MEDA L. PERMISSION. FRIEI) RICH BOR HLER, Zeil 54 (next door to the Post-Office). MANUFACTORY OF STAGHORN. FURNITURE OF EVERY DESCRIPTION, as Sofas, Chairs, Tables, &c. CHANDELIERS, TABLE AND HAND CANDLESTICKS, Shooting-tackle, Inkstands, Paper-knives, Penholders, Seals, Knives, &c. Riding-whips, Cigar-cases and Holders, Pipes, Match-boxes, Porte-monnaies, Card-cases, Thermo- meters, &c. GOBLETS, CANDLE-SCREENS, FIGURES AND GnoUPS OF ANIMALS, executed after Riedinger, Mene, and others. BROOCHES, BRACELETS, Earrings, Shirt-pins, Studs, Buttons. Stag and Deer Heads with Antlers attached to the Skull. CARVED WOOD-WORK (Vieuxchene). FURNITURE AND FANCY OBJECTS of every description. Orders for a Complete Set or for any quantity of FURNITURE will be promptly executed. FIXED PRICES. The Agents in London are Messrs. J. and R. McCRACKEN, 38, Queen Street, Cannon Street West. MURRA'S HANDBOOK( ADVERTISER. May 38 FRANKFORT O. M. FRIEDRICH BOHLER, Zeil, NEXT DOOR TO PRIZE MEDAL, No. 5 4, THE POST OFFICE. LONDON, 1862. Fii.r 17 1 O- 0 , .. ., PEI4DULES (ORNAMENTAL CLOCKS) of every description,Vases, Goblets, Antique and Modern Statuettes and Groups of Animals, Inkstands, Paper-weights, &c. &c., in Bronze, Cast Iron, Galvano-plastic, &c. CROWN-CHANDELIERS; BRANCH, TABLE, AND HAND CANDLESTICKS, in Bronze, &c.; Lamps of every description. VIENNA BRONZE, MARQUETRY, LEATHER, AND MEERSCHAUM ARTICLES. PORCELAIN AND BRITANNIA-METAL GOODS, Liqueur-chests, &c. TRAVELLING DRESSING-CASES and BAGs, Railroad Companions, Picnic-baskets, every kind of LEATHER GOODS and ARTICLES of TASTE and USE for TRAVELLERS. FANCY OBJECTS of the greatest variety and beauty; Albums, Boxes, Fans, Smelling-bottles, Opera and Race-Glasses, &c. &c. Superior Copies of the ARIADNE by Dannecker, and the AMAzoN by Kiss. Genuine EAU DE COLOGNE of Jean Marie Farina, opposite the Jillichsplatz. FIXED PRICES. The Agents in London are Messrs. J. and R. MTCCRACKEN, 38, Queen Street, Cannon Street West. 1868. MURRAY'S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. 39 40 MURRAY'S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. May, LUCERNE. HOTEL BEAU RIVAGE. PROPRIETOR-MR. ED. STRUB. HIS newly-established Hotel is fitted up with every comfort, and recommends itself by its magnificent view on the Rigi, Pilatus, &c. Beautiful Gardens. Pleasure Boats. Private Saloons for ladies and families. Smoking-rooms. Baths. Variety of Newspapers. Most scrupulous attendance. Moderate prices. Omnibus at the Railway Station and landing-place. DRESDEN. HOTEL DE SAXE. HIS celebrated First-class Hotel, kept by Mrs. DORN and her SONS, has been recently enlarged and embellished, contains 150 Front Rooms, with 200 Beds, and is situated in the centre of the town, at the New Square, in the immediate vicinity of all the curiosities. Table-d'Hote at one and four o'lock, is the qet u4nid disgroom in the town. Carriages, Baths, Reading and Saeki ng oom, Arrangpents for the wieter. LAUSANNE. Hotel Gibbon: Mr. Ritter, Proprietor. THIS First-class Hotel, highly recommended in every respect, is situated in the best part of the town, and commands the finest and most extensive views of the Lake, the Alps, and the splendid scenery around Lausanne. The terraced garden adjoining the salle-k-manger is unsurpassed by any in the neighbourhood, and was the favourite residence of Gibbon, who wrote here his History of Rome. From the extensive Garden, which is tastefully laid out and attached to the Hotel, the view is most grand and romantic. In fact, this house will be found to give very superior accommodation, and to offer to travellers a highly desirable place of residence or of temporary sojourn. Pension at Reduced Prices during the Winter. LAUSANNE. Hotel Richemont: kept by Fritz Ritter. HIS Hotel is of the first order, worthy of the highest recom- mendations, and in a situation of surpassing beauty. It is surrounded by gardens and promenades, and possesses the advantage of having three fronts facing the Alps. Reduced prices for protracted stay, and Pension during Winter season. 1868. MURRAY19 HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. '41 HEIDELBERG. A HO E L'EUROPE. This new, -rate Establishment, surrounded by private ens, with the view of the Castle, and the vc_ _ of Heidelberg, enjoys already an European reputation. READING ROOM, With English and American Papers. Reduced prices for protracted stay, and for the Winter Season. HEFELI-GUJER, Proprietor. NEAR TO LAUSANNE. HOTEL BEAU RIVAGE. SITUATED IN ONE OF THE MOST BEAUTIFUL SPOTS OF THE LAKE OF GENEVA. LUCERNE. SWAN HOTEL.-This Hotel, in the very best situation, enjoys a high character. Mr. HAEFELI, the Proprietor, has made in the later years a great many improvements, and does his possible to offer to his visitors a comfortable home. An elegant new Ladles' Drawing.room, besides a Reading-room and Smoking-room. By a week's sojourn, pension arrangements. Cold, Warm, and Shower Baths. FLORENCE. BRIZZI AND NICCOLAI'S Musical Establishment. PIANOFORTES, OF THE BEST MAKERS, FOR SALE AND ON HIRE. GENERAL DEPOT FOR WIND-INSTRUMENTS. Italian and Foreign Music. Kusical Lending Library. PIAZZA MADONNA, BRANCH HOUSE (Music DEPOT) PALAZZO ALDOBRANDINI. 12, VIA CERRETANI. PENZANCE, CORNWALL. MOUNT'S BAY HOUSE, EMPLANADE; PENZANCE, CORNWALL, Has been erected and fitted up expressly as a SEASIDE FAMILY HOTEL & FIRST-0LASS LODGING-HOTUSE. NO expense or labour has been spared by the Proprietor. The house is furnished in the most modern style, is well supplied with' Hot and Cold Baths, and replete with every accommodation suitable for Tourists to West Cornwall. All the Drawing Rooms command an uninterrupted and unsurpassed view of that 'Beauteous gem set in the silver sea,' St. Michael's Mount, and the whole of the magnificent Bay. Invalids will find in Mount's Bay House the comforts of a home, while the beauty and salubrity of the situation, and its nearness to the charming walks on the sea-shore, render it a healthy and delightful residence. Suites of apartments for families of distinction. Choice Wines and Ales. Post Horses and Carriages. E. LAVIN, PROPRIETOR. VICHY-LES-BAINS. GRAND HOTEL DU PARC, PROPRIETOR, MR. GERMOT, Opposite the Baths and the Park. AS in Paris and London, Vihy has its Grand Hotel. The Grand Hotel du Parc of Vichy for comfort, elegance, and convenience, is equal to any of the large Hotels of Paris or London. Omnibus and Carriages at the Station. Separate Suites of Apartments for Families. DIEPPE.: H0 TEL ESB AIN S (MORGAN), ACING the Sea, and Baths, of the Highest Class, quiet, thoroughly recommeadable. A large private House also on the beach for Families. MILAN. GRAND HOTEL DE MILAN, GRAND CORSO DES JlARDIN.- An LF excellent and first-class house. Director, Mr. CAMILLE GAvorro. 160 Bedrooms, 20 Drawing-rooms, Table-d'hte, 4 francs, wine included English, German, and French spoken. Omnibus at the Station. MURRAY'S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. May, 42 DI E PPE. HOTEL ROYAL, FACING THE BEACH, Close to the Bathing Establishment and the Parade. IT IS ONE OF THE MOST PLEASANTLY SITUATED HOTELS SIN DIEPPE, commanding a beautiful and extensive View of the Sea. Families and Gentlemen visiting Dieppe will find at this Establish- ment elegant Large and Small Apartments, and the best of accommo- dation, at very reasonable prices. The Refreshments, &c., are of the best quality. In fact, this Hotel fully bears out and deserves the favourable opinion expressed of it in Murray's and other Guide Books. Table-d'Hte and Private Dinners. PASSAGE OF MONT CENIS. SUSA TO ST. 1ICHEL (and vice versd). MR. JOSEPH BORGO. Carriages can be obtained for the crossing of Mont Cnis, from Susa to St. Michel, or vice versd, on application to Mr. JOSEPH BORGO at TURIN-Grand HIotel de rEurope. SUSA-Hotel de Francq. ST. MICHEL-Railway Station and Hotel de la Poste. Carriages of all kinds, to hold 2, 4, 5, and 7 persons. Travellers will find this the most comfortable and least fatiguing way of crossing this mountain, the passage being made in the same time as by the COURIER. ** Travellers will always find at the Station of St. Michel an Agent of Mn BORGO, on arrival of the train. 1868. M~URRArPS HANDBOOK ADVETISER. 43 VENICE. GRAND HOTEL VICTORIA. (FORMERLY REGINA D'INGHILTERRA.) ROBERT ETZENSBERGER, Manager. HE largest and finest Hotel in Venice, most conveniently situated near the Piazza S. Marco and the principal theatres. 180 Bed- rooms, Private Sitting-rooms, Reading-room, with Piano, Billiard-room, and Smoking-room. Baths of every description, great comfort and cleanliness. Service on the Swiss system. Charges more moderate than in any other first-class Hotel. Arrangements for Pension. English spoken by all the Servants. MILAN. REPOSITORY OF FINE ARTS AND ANTIQUITIES. ($nglish gtenIc for Ftcilal adX 4tral gnformation. HOTEL ACCOMMODATION OR PRIVATE APARTMENTS Secured for Families. MR. C. MANINI, 10, CORSIA DEL GIARDINO, MILAN. LUCHON (BAGNERES DE), PYRENEES. Grand Htel Bonne-Maison et de Londres, Mr. VIDAL, Jun., Proprietor. Situated opposite the Thermal Establishment or Bath-rooms. This favourite and first-rate Hotel affords extensive accommodation of the best description for a large number of visitors. It is delightfully situated, and will be found most comfortable for Families or Gentlemen. 44 MURRAY'S HANDBOOK( ADVERTISER. May, METZ. HOTEL DE L'EUROPE. MR. MONIER, PROPRIETOR. This first-rate Hotel, much frequented by Families and Gentlemen, situated in the finest part of the town, near the Railway Station and Promenade, is replete with every comfort : the apartments are tastefully and elegantly furnished. It is celebrated for its cleanliness, good attendance, and reasonable prices. Saloons, Reading, and Refreshment Rooms; Table d'Hdte at 1 and 5 o'clock; Breakfasts and Dinners at all hours. Advantageous arrangements made with Families during the Winter Season. In front of the Hotel there is a fine extensive garden and large court-yard. Baths and carriages in the Hotel. Omnibuses and carriages belonging to the Hotel convey passengers to and from the Railway Station. English, French, Italian, and German spoken. Moderate prices. MILAN. Htel Cavour, Place Cavour, Just opposite the Public Gardens. KEPT BY J. SUARDI AND CO. This first-rate Hotel is fitted up with every modemrn appliance, and situated in the finest part of Milan. It commands a fine view of the Promenade near to the Station, the Grand Theatre, the National Museum, and the Protestant Church. Excellent Table-d'hdte. Charges very moderate. Baths on each floor. A Smoking and a Reading Room supplied with foreign newspapers. Omnibus of the Hotel at the arrival of all trains. Manager-G. VALLETTA. DIJON. HO6TEL DUJ PAR C. PROPRIETORS-RIPARD BROTHERS. Has been newly Furnished, and entirely Refitted throughout. SITUATED IN THE CENTRE OF THE TOWN. LARGE AND SMALL APARTMENTS. GARDEN BEHIND THE HOTEL. Table-d'Hote at 10 a.m. and 6 p.m. CARRIAGES FOR DRIVES IN THE TOWN OR COUNTRY. N.B.-Ask for the Omnibus of the Hotel on the arrival of the Train. VIENNA. GRITND HOTEL NATIONAL, LEOPOLDSTADT. Contains Two Hundred richly furnished Apartments, varying in price from 50 Kreutzers to 6 Florins, together with Coffee, Billiard, and Smoking Rooms; also Saloons for Reading and Recreation, provided with all the best Journals of England, Germany, and France. Post Office, Government Telegraph Office, and Photographic Studio on the Premises. Restaurant s la carte, at fixed prices at all hours. Elegant carriages always ready for the convenience of travellers, and Omnibuses constantly running to the Railway Stations. This Hotel, the largest in Vienna, offers the most desirable advantages to travellers, as, irrespective of its excellent accommodation, it is situated in the most pleasant and finest part of the town. Mianagers and Proprietors, lMuch and Mayer. 1868. MURRAY'S HANDBOOK: ADVERTISER. 45 MURRAY'S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. MARSEILLES. GRAND HOTEL NOAILLES, RUE NOAILLES, CANNEBlIRE PROLONGEE. THIS splendid establishment, the largest, most important, and most recent in Marseilles. must be reckoned in the first rank of European Hotels, from its admirable position, from its splendid furniture, the number of its bed-rooms and sitting-rooms, the excellence of its cuisine, its cleanliness, and strict attention paid to travellers. It is the only Hotel in the Rue Noailles which possesses a beautiful Garden full south, with 12 private Dining-rooms, and a magnificent Salle h Manger capable of accommodating 200 persons; Drawing-room, Reading-room, Smoking-room, &c. Baths in the Hotel, private Carriages, Omnibus of Hotel at the Station, Tariff.-Chambers elegantly furnished on all floors, from 3 francs on the entresol; 5 francs 1st floor; 4 fancs 2nd floor; 3 francs on the 3rd floor; 2 francs on 4th floor. Table-d'hote richly ornamented and served with all the delicacies of the season, 4 francs; j bottle of burgundy, 1 franc. Meals served k'a la carte either in the bed or sitting-rooms at very moderate prices. Dinners at fixed prices at all hours from 5 francs. Arrangements can be made to include a good Bed-room Breakfast, Dinner at table-d'hote, lights, and service, from 9 francs per day, according to the Floor. Omnibus at the Station, 1 franc without luggage, 1j franc with luggage. WILDBAD. H6tel Klumpp, formerly Hotel de O'urs, MR. W. KLUMPP, PROPRIETOR. HIS First-class Hotel, containing 36 Salons and 170 Bed-rooms, a separate SBreakfast, a very extensive and elegant Dining-room, new Reading and Conversation as well as Smoking Salons, with an artificial Garden over the rive ; is situated opposite the Bath and Conversation House, and in the immediate vicinity of the Promenade. It is celebrated for its elegant and comfortable apartments, good cuisine and cellar, and deserves its wide-spread reputation as an excellent hotel. Table-d'hote at One and Five o'clock. Breakfasts and Suppers k la carte. EXCHANGE OFFICE. Correspondent of the principal Banking-houses of London for the payment of Circular Notes and Letters of Credit. Omnibus of the Hotel to and from each train. Elegant private carriages when required. 46 May, PA R IS. HOTEL DES DEUX MONDES ET D'ANGLETER1RE, 8, RUE D'ANTIN, Near the Tuileries, Place Vendome, and the Boulevards. Tins magnificent first-class Hotel, recently constructed and elegantly furnished in the newest and most fashionable style, surrounded by gardens, justifies the preference accorded to it by Families and Gentlemen for the splendour and comfort of its Apartments, its excellent Cuisine, and the care and atten- tion shown to all who honour the Hotel with their patronage. LARGE AND SMALL APARTMENTS, AND SINGLE ROOMS, AT MODERATE CHARGES. PRIVATE RESTAURANT. SPLENDID COFFEE-ROOM8, SALOONS, READING AND 8MOKING ROOMS. LETTER-BOX. INTERPRETERS. HORSES, ELEGANT CARRIAGES, OMNIBUSES FOR THE RAILWAYS. 1868. MURRAY'S HANDBOOK( ADVERTISER. 47 48 MURRAY'S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. May, FREIBURG in Bresgau, Duchy of Baden. H6TEL S 0 M MER, Zahringer Hof, NEWLY built, opposite the Station; finest view of the Black Forest and the Vosges; most comfortable and best house there. Baths in the Hotel. Proprietor, Mr. G. H. SOMMER. AMSTERDAM. BRACK'S DOELEN HOTEL-Situated in the Centre of the Town, and most convenient for Visitors on pleasure or business. It commands a splendid view of the Quays, &c.; and, being conducted on a liberal scale, it is patronised by the highest classes of society in Holland. It is also much frequented by Engli-h Travellers for the com- fort and first-rate accommodation it affords, as well as for the invariable civility shown to visitors. Carriages for hire. Table-d'hdte at half-past 4, or dinner h la carte. BRUXELLES. THE GRAND HOTEL DE SAXE, RUE NEUVE, 77 and 79, is admirably situated close to the Boulevards and Theatres, and is the nearest Hotel to the Railway Stations. The Hotel is considerably enlarged, and has a new Dining-room which will contain 300 persons. Fixed prices:-Plain Breakfast, 1i franc;; Dinner at the Table- d'hdte, 3f francs; Bedrooms, from 2 to 4 francs; Service, 1 franc; Sitting-rooms, 3 to 12 francs; Steaks or Cutlets, 1t franc. Travellers must beware of coachmen and conductors of omnibuses who endeavour to drive them to some other hotel. MVENTON. HOTEL DE LA MEDITERRANEE, AVENUE VICTOR EMMANUEL. -This new and first-rate Hotel is situated full South, with view of the Sea. Families will find it a most desirable residence for its comfort and cleanliness. "Salon de Conversa- tion." Reading-room, with English and Foreign papers. The Servants speak English and other languages. N.B.-The English Church is in the garden. BIARRITZ. HOTEL DE FRANCE, And the magnificent Maison Garderes. PROPRIETOR, MR. GARDERES. HESE two first-class Establishments are delightfully situated on the Beach, in front of the Imperial Chateau, the Baths, and in the centre of the Promenades. They are furnished in a most superior style, with every comfort and convenience that can be desired by English or American Tra- vellers. Moderate charges. The Proprietor speaks English. Carriages for Excursions in the Pyrenees and Spain. Table-d'h6te. ' The Times' newspaper. TURIN. GRAND HOTEL DE L'EUROPE, PROPRIETORS- MESSRS. BORATTI AND CASALEGGIO. Situated, Place du Chateau, opposite the King's Palace. HIS unrivalled and admirably conducted Hotel has been entirely refurnished with every comfort, and in the very best taste, and thus peculiarly recommends itself to the notice of English travellers. A EXCELLENT TABLE-D'HOTE at 52 o'clock. Without Wine, 4 fr.; Dinner in Apartments, 6 fr.; Breakfast, with Tea or Coffee and Eggs, 2 fr. REDUCED TERMS FOR A LENGTHENED STAY. Interpreters speaking all the European Languages. CHARGES MODERATE. THE TIMEES NEW SSPAPER. An Omnibus from the Hotel will be found at every Train. N.B.-Alterations and embellishments are now being carried out in this Hotel which will render it one of the handsomest and most comfortable in Turin; such as a noble marble staircase, a private staircase for servants, electric bells in all rooms, wooden door to grand entrance to deaden the sound in the Hotel, new carpets, &c. &c. 1868. MURA'S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. 40 50 MURAY' HANBOOK DVERISER May DORRELL & SON'S P.A.SSPOR'I' ..GE1CY, 15, CHARING CROSS, S.W. Every Information given respecting Travelling on the Continent. French and Italian spoken, and Correspondence carried on in either Language. BRITISH SUBJECTS visit- _ tail, by post, on applica- ing the Continent will tion. save trouble and expense Passports Mounted, by obtaining their Pass- and enclosed in Cases, ports through the above with the name of the Agency. No personal P Obearer impressed in gold attendance is required, I oRT on the outside; thus af- and country residents fording security against may have their Pass- injury or loss, and pre- ports forwarded through venting delay in the the post. A 'PAssPoRT frequent examination of PRoSPEcTus,' containing D )the Passport when tra- every particular in de- velling. Fee, Obtaining Passport, ls.; Visas, Is. each. Cases, 18. 6d. to 5s. each. THE LATEST EDITIONS OF MURRAY'S HANDBOOKS. English and Foreign Stationery, Dialogue Books, Couriers' Bags, Pocket- books and Purses of every description, Travelling Inkstands, and a va- riety of other Articles useful for Travellers. THE ATHE1TN.IUM. EVERY SATURDAY, OF ANY BOOKSELLER OR NEWS AGENT, PRICE THREEPENCE. Each HIalf-Yearly Volume complete in itself, with Title-Page and Index. THE ATHEN1EUM JOURNAL OF ENGLISH AND FOREIGN LITERATURE, SCIENCE, AND THE FINE ARTS. CONTAINS :-REVIEWS of every important New Book-REPORTS of the Learned Societies-AUTHENTIC ACCOUNTS of Scientific Voyages and Expeditions - FOREIGN CORRESPONDENCE on Subjects relating to Literature, Science, and Art -CRITICISMS ON ART, MUSIC, AND )RAMA-BIOGRAPHICAL NOTICES of dis- tinguished Men-ORIGINAL PAPERS AND POEMS-WEEKLY GOSSIP. THE ATHENEUM is so conducted that the reader, however distant, is, in respect to Literature, Science, and Art, on an equality in point of information with the best-informed circles of the Metropolis. Subscription for Twelve Months, 13s.; Six Months, 6s. 6d. If required to be sent by Post, the Postage extra. Office for Advertisements- 20, WELLINGTON STREET, STRAND, LONDON, W.C. M\URRAY'S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. 50 May, COURIERS AND TRAVELLING SERVANTS. THE ORIGINAL AGENCY, ESTABLISHED 1832. 440, WEST STRAND, LONDON, W.O. Patronized by the Nobility and General Travelling Public, GENTLEMEN and Families going abroad are respectfully informed that Couriers and Travelling Servants for all Countries and of the highest character and experience may as heretofore always be engaged at the above Agency, where none are recommended again who have not given entire satisfaction to their previous employers, thus ensuring to parties about to travel who may honour the agency with their patronage, the greatest amount of usefulness, civility, and respect from those whom they may employ through it. MURRAY'S AND ALL THE OTHER GUIDES, MAPS, DICTIONARIES, DIALOGUES, GRAMMARS, &c., FOR ALL COUNTRIES. PORTMANTEAUX, HAT-CASES, AND ALL SORTS OF TRAVELLING BAGS, And&all the Requisites for Travellers, are kept on sale at LEE & CARTER'S ORIGINAL GUIDE AND TRAVELLERS' DEP'OT, 440, WEST STRAND, LONDON, W.C. (nearly opposite the Charing Cross Railway), WHERE ALL INFORMATION ABOUT PASSPORTS, ROUTES ETC. CAN ALWAYS BE OBTAINED. 1868. M\URRA'S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. 51 LUCERNE. HOTEL S CHWE IZERI]OF. HAUSER BROTHERS, PROPRIETORS. THE LARGEST HOTEL IN SWITZERLAND. Best Sitiation on the Quay, with splendid view of the cele- brated panorama of the Lake and Mountains. THE high reputation which this establishment enjoys among Travellers, and especially English and American families, is the best and strongest assurance of its superior arrangement and comfort. Its new immense Dining-Room, with adjoining Garden, Salon, and large Parlour, attract the attention of every Visitor. Reduced Prices (Pension) are made for longer visits in the early and later parts of the Season. HOMBOURG. HOTEL VICTORIA, close to the Springs and the Kursaal, is one of the finest and best situated Hotels. The Proprietor, Mi. GUSTAVE WEIGAND, who has been for inany years in first-class Hotels iR London, offers to English travellers a good house, with every comfort. Excellent Table-d'hate and good Wines, at moderate charges. Sponge Baths. N.B. - All kinds of Wines are exported to any part of England, particularly his excellent Sparkling Wines (nice and dry, which are expressly prepared for England), called Victoria Sparkling Moselle and Hock. GENEVA. HOTEL DE LA COTTIRJONNE. PROPRIETOR, C. ALDINGER. THIS FIRST-CLASS ESTABLISHMENT, just newly fur- nished and fitted up throughout, offers Travellers a most extensive view of the Lake of Geneva, Mont Blanc, &c., from its position at the head of the magni- ficent new bridge. Every attention paid to the comfort and wishes of Families and Gentlemen. Active attendance, good cuisine and cellar. Tables-d'HSte at 1, 5, and 7 o'clock. English and American newspapers. The Omnibus of the Hotel meets every Train. ATHENS. GRAND HOTEL DES ETRANGERS, Near the Royal Palace. In the most delightful situation, opposite the Royal Gardens, near the Palace. The best Hotel InAthens. Moderate prices; good attendance. All languages spoken. Best guide, G.PoHouI. 52 ECIURRAY'S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. lTay, 1868. MURRAY'S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. 53 ZOURICH. HOTEL BELLEVUE AU LAC. Proprietor : C. GUYER. THIS splendid and admirably conducted establishment, situ- ted on the shore of the Lake, commands, by its unsurpassed position, the best view of the Lake, Alps, and Glaciers, and offers, by its superior internal arrangements, the comforts of Private Apartments and Public Parlours, with careful, civil, and quiet attendants-all desirable attractions to travellers as a place of residence or of temporary sojourn. Pension at reduced prices, and arran gements made for families from October to July. Notice.-125 Apartnents facing the Lake. BALE. HOTEL DES TROIS ROIS. PROPRIETOR, MR. WALD. THIS ancient and justly-renowned first-class Establishment is situated on the Rhine, and commands an extensive view of the JlJRA, the BLACK FOREST, and the VOSGES, so that the eye may with one glance take a peep into SWITZERLAND,GERMANY, and FRANCE. The HOUSE is comfortable in every respect. READING and SMIOKING Rooms newly arranged. WARM BATHS. Mr. WALD does all in his power to render the sojourn at his house as pleasant as possible. The Omnibuses of the Hotel are always in attendance at the Railway Stations. LUGANO, SWITZERLAND. HOTEL ET BELVEDERE DU PARC. KEPT BY A. BEHA. HIS first-class HOTEL contains 150 Sleeping-Rooms and Saloons, all elegantly furnished; "Salons de reunion; an English chapel; and one of the most beautiful Gardens in the country. The Hotel is very agreeably situated for the two seasons. During the winter the Hall and landings are warmed. Great improvements have been made since last year, by the addition of new Public Rooms, and numerous Apartments for Families, with every comfort desirable. BADEN-BADEN. VI C TORI A Hi IOTEL. Proprietor, Ir. FRANZ GROSHOLZ. THIS is one of the finest built and best furnished First-class Hotels, situated on the new Promenade, near the Kursaal and Theatre; it commands the most charming views in Baden. It is reputed to be one of the best Hotels min Germany. The Table and Wines are excellent, with prompt attendance and great civility. Prices very moderate. English and other Journals. WI ESBADEN. -.--- FOUR SEASONS HOTEL & BATHS. PROPRIETOR, DR. ZAIS. THIS First-Class Establishment, equal to any on the Rhine, is in the best and most delightful situation in the Great Square, opposite the Kursaal, the Theatre, the Promenades; close to the Boiling Spring and the new English" Chapel. This Hotel is the largest in the place, containing a great choice of SPLENDID AND COMFORTABLE APARTMENTS, for Families and Single Travellers; exquisite Cuisine and first-class Wines, combined with attentive service and moderate charges. TABLE D'HOTE at 1 and 5 p.m., and PRIVATE DINNERS. .Numerous comfortable Bathing Cabinets, supplied with Hot, Mineral, and Sweet Waters. THE BEST BOOK THE BEST GIFT. Two vols., crown 8vo., 30s. cloth; 52s. 6d. calf; 63s. morocco. THE ILLUSTRATED FAMILY TESTAMVIENT. Edited, with a short practical Commentary, by Archdeacon CRn- Toa, M.A., and Rev. W. BASIL JONES, M.A. With 100 authentic Illustrations and Eight Panoramic Views of Places mentioned in the Sacred Text. ' The Commmentary is not less marked by accuracy and sound learning than by judgment, candour, and piety. We highly commend it.'- Guardian. * ' The idea of illustrating the Bible by really faithful representations of the places spoken of is a peculiarly happy one, for it is in fact a kind of com- mentary. The book is a work of very great, elegance and sound scholarship. Of the illustrations it would be im- possible to speak in terms of praise sufficiently high.'- Union Review. ' The names of Archdeacon Churton and Prebendary Jones will form an abundant guarantee of the learning and reverence brought to bear on the plain explanatory comments by which the text is accompanied.'-John Bull. JOHN MURRAY, ALBEMARLE STREET, MSURRAY'S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. May, 54 BRUSSELS. HOTEL DE BELLE VUE. Proprietor, MVr. EDWARD DREMEL. HIS magnificent Hotel, in offering to the Visitor every kind of comfort and accommodation, has the great advantage of being situated adjoining THE PALACE OF THE KING, and facing THE PLACE ROYALE AND THE PARK. It contains numerous large and small Apartments, as well as single Rooms. Table-.d'Hte, richly served. Choice Wines. SMOKING ROOM. READING ROOlM, with the best Belgian, English, French, German, and American Daily Papers and Periodicals. Terraces, with Splendid View overlooking the Park. ARRANGEMENTS MADE FOR THE WINTER. Mr. DREMEL, the new Proprietor of this Hotel, hopes to justify the confidence placed in him, by a carefully arranged system of prompt and civil attendance, combined with moderate charges. 1868. MURRAY'S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. 55 MURRAY'S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. THE ORIGINAL GUIDE AND TRAVELLERS' DEPOT, NEARLY OPPOSITE THE CHARING CROSS RAILWAY. ESTABLISHED 1832. LEE'S POLYGLOT WASHING BOOKS (To save the trouble of translating Washing Bills) For Ladies or Gentlemen, IN English & French. English & German. English & Italian. English & Spanish. English & Portuguese. SPONGE BAGS. METALLIC SOAP BOXES. W f atrproof dcoats. KNAPSACKS. FLASKS. Railway Rugs, STRAPS, MONEY BAGS & BELTS. PURSES, WALLETS, SOVEREIGN AND NAPOLEON CASES. TRAVELLING TELESCOPES, ~~~m ,P45s' and Spectacles. MOORE'S GERMAN xINTERPRETER. ' With the exact pronunciation in English in a separate column. 5s. in cloth, or 6s. in leather. PASSPORTS M- Procured, mounted on linen, and inserted in MANUSCRIPT & morocco cases, stamped with coronet or name, ACCOUNT BOOKS. at the shortest notice, and forwarded by Post. Visas obtained and information given. IMetallic and other Pocket Books. The latest editions of MURRAY'S IHAxNDOOKS - kept in the original binding, and in limp leather, 7 '" o more convenient for the pocket, at 2s. a volume 9 6>I, extra. D)OR FAsTENHERS. TRUSTWORTHY COURIERS and TRAVELLING SER- DOOR FASTENERS. VANTS can be engaged at Patent Inkstands LB & CA RT E ' anti llt Boxes. 440, WEST STRAND, W.O., ELASTIC BANDS. TWO DOORS WEST OF TIlE LOWTIHER ARCADE, Where an extensive collection of Foreign Paper, GUIDES, HANDBOOKS, MAPS, ENVELOPES, &c. iaOait 1I, oIRIt POCKET PEN GRAMMARS, INTERPRETERS, AND WORD AND PHRASE BOOKS, f gggrz. In most of the Continental Languages, and every - article necessary for home and foreign travel, is KELLER'S AND kept in great variety. LEUTHOLD'S PORTMANTEAUX, HAT-CASES, MAPS CARPET BAGS, FITTED BAGS, OSWITZ LAND PORTABLE BATHS, S PO T - E, STUDER'S Rir-n Ijians, rZsing Whilii ,a$S, MONTE ROSA. CAMP STOOLS, M AYth'S LUNCHEON BASKETS, LEG-RESTS, TAYR' &c. &C. &C. T Y R 0 L. 56 May, 1868. /// /4/-< .r' '- , 1 d~r4 / I C *y' s 4 Yr - ' P f // --- ... it -'...r I _., , N Y M \ V k ' \ Vt N\ --4 S:. "a -4' N '4 K ["4 q L t\ v '4 E , LONIAL LIBR ARY. interest and ability of the Authors, rs. Post 8vo. Published at 2s. and e heads as follows.- HISTORIC TALES. HE WAYSIDE CROSS. A Tale. By CAPT. MILSAN. 2S. BE LIBERATION WAR IN GER- MANY. Translated by SIR A. GORDON . ". d.- HE STORY OF THE BATTLE OF WATERLOO. By REV. q, R. GLEIG. 3s. Gd , UTOBIOGRAPHY OF HENRY STEFFENS. 2s. IVES OF THE BRITISH POETS. By TOIAs CAMPBELl,. 38s. Gd. tISTORICAL ESSAYS. By Lon MAnoN. Ss. 6d. IFE OF LORD CLIVE. By REV. G. R. GLEIG. ,s. 6d. IOKERS AND POKERS: or TnA NonRi- WESERN RAILWAY. By SIR F. B.: HEAD. 2s. IFE OF GENERAL MUNRO. By REV. G. R. 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