ILLINOIS

UNIVERSITY OF ILLINOIS AT URBANA-CHAMPA1GN

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2014THE UNIVERSITY

J

OF ILLINOIS
LIBRARY

From the collection of
JULIUS" DOERNER, Chicago
Purchased, 1918.

314.15
LiltMRS. MARIETTA LLOYD.A Trip to Ireland

Giving an Account of the Voyage Scenes and Incidents on
Landing. Sketch of the Round Towers of Ireland.
Also a Graphic Description of Travel and Sight-
seeing in Ireland, Interspersed with Histori-
cal Legends and Stories of Her Remark-
able Antiquities. Including a
Romantic Tour on the Lakes
of Killarney.

BY

MRS. J. J. LLOYD.

BEAUTIFULLY ILLUSTRATED.

Making it a Work .both Attractive and Interesting to
the Reader.

DONOHUE & HENNEBEERY,

Publishers,

CHICAGO.Copyright, 1893,

BY

MRS. J. J. LLOYD

SHULLSBUKGH, WIS.

DONOHUE & HENNEBERRY,
PRINTERS AND BINDERS,
CHICAGO.9/4./o

L 7 "It

CONTENTS.

CHAPTER.

1	Reminiscences of a Visit to Ireland
2.	Embarking on the Voyage
3.	The Voyage .
4.	The Little People .
5.	The Two Sisters
6.	The Wandering Jew
7.	Sunset at Sea ....
8.	The Young Mother
9.	My First Glimpse of Ireland
10.	The Welcome . . ,
11.	The Morning Ramble
12.	Fourth of July in Ireland
13.	Our Trip to Rahan Mountain
14.	Fermoy
15.	Castle-Riven ....
16.	The Old Kirk Yard
17.	Cahiramee Fair , .
18.	Rock Forest . . ,
19.	The Round Towers of Ireland
20.	Leaving the Old Farm Home .
21.	Kilarney . .
22.	Second Day on the Lakes
23.	Adieu to Mallow . .
24.	The City of Cork .
25.	Cork City
26.	Farewell to Ireland

CHAPTER.PREFACE.

IT is not without some temerity of feeling that I
launch this little volume upon the uncertain
sea of public opinion, knowing our nature ever
inclines us to assume the role of critic. It would
therefore be almost presumptuous in me to think
that it would meet with no prevailing prejudices.
But while I pause and hesitate the star of hope
looms up before me and draws me on to the
venturesome track and encourages me to send
it adrift, trusting for favorable winds and gentle
waves to bear it on a prosperous voyage. I have
indulged in no obtuse speculation, nor drifted my
imaginations to the cloud-capped heights of
romance; but simply penned this sketch of travel
to please and entertain. In the course of this
work it has been my object to speak of many
castles, 'churches and towers, which have never
been mentioned by writers of travel. Many
lovely little nooks and pleasant spots, and beauti-
ful scenes in Ireland seem to be overlooked by
many of those who visit her shores. They seem
rather to, seek those places which are known to
many than to visit nature for her own sweet sake
in her more devious and undistinguished haunts.
. ~ Though no doubt somewhat selfish I feel just as
well pleased. I love to think I tread upon ground

5

438o556

PREFACE.

unsullied by the footsteps of the numerous his-
torians—that my eyes have wandered over scenery,
the freshness of which has been impaired by no
transfer to the artist's portfolio—and heard from
the lips of those rustic residents the traditionary
legends that throw such charms around those old
crumbling ruins, or that dark " Bohreen," with its
nightly visits of fairies. And again there is a
sense of feeling which cheers me on in my work
as I think of the many who have drifted far from
their native land; the most of them never to set
foot again on its green shores, but who still
cherish in their hearts the land of their birth, and
hold dear the kindred ties that bind them to their
Fatherland, and ever retaining a fondness to hear
of the scenes of their childhood, which seemingly
adds comfort and joy to them like news from
home.

Then why close the sunshine of the heart if
precious blessings we can impart ? Why lock our
thoughts if we can send them forth to the better-
ment of our lives and the enjoyment of others ?
And I will not esteem it fruitless labor if these
pages cast a ray of sunshine into the heart, and
prove both pleasing and entertaining to the reader.CHAPTER 1.

REMINISCENCES OF A VISIT TO IRELAND.

" I love at eve, when the western sky
Is tinged with purple and gold,

To lay the cares of the present by,

And dream of the days of old."

HERE sometimes happens duringour lives,inci-

dents whidh leave such a deep and lasting im-
pression we can never recall them, even after the
lapse of years, without almost feeling we were
living them over again.

And as I sit musing over the past, indulging my
fancy in waking dreams, a flood of remembrances
come sweeping through my mind, and with them
the recollection of my first voyage across the
Atlantic Ocean to visit the "Emerald Isle,"
whose legends had filled me with weird fantasies;
and plaintive songs enchanted me.

Where every stone is fraught with memories
and every twig has its rqmance, and sweet music
comes up from the dimpling waters beneath our
feet as they dance onward in gladness to the sea,
or from the murmuring of bright cascades de-
scending from the hill-side. With visions of nature
so full of beautiful pencilings of mountains and
dells, of lakes and valleys, castles and ruins, I
decided to make a visit to the old country, to see
that little " green isle " of such world-wide cele-8

A Trip to Ireland.

brity. Thus living over the past, reveling in the
sweet recollections of my rambles in Ireland,
where you " Find tongues in trees, books in the
running brooks, sermons in stones and good in
everything."

I concluded to write a brief sketch for the
entertainment of my many friends and all those
who desired to hear of that distant land. So
much has been written by bards and poets in
praise of the beauties of " Emerald Isle," I am
filled somewhat with temerity in taking up my
pen to try to portray anything which might
prove interesting to the reader. But while much
has been written, much more can be written. And
as I tarry, sweet memory; the only thing we can
call our own, comes to aid me in my musings and
bursts the twilight of my mind portraying those
pleasant scenes anew, and a visionary panorama
lies stretched before my mind, wherein I recall
those verdant landscapes, those towering mount-
ains which wakened such rapturous emotions
with their high and rocky battlements and shelv-
ing cliffs and the smiling valley below with its
fragrant flowers and winding streams. I see
again those, old romantic places with their
visionary phantoms, the sweet roses and bright
honeysuckles, the thatched cottages and castles, j
listen again to the old stories so often repeated, I
revisit that fairy glen and hear the sweet melodies
of the little songsters, or stray away on the banksREMINISCENCES OP A VISIT TO IRELAND. 9

of the beautiful Black water river and watch the
speckled trout swimming in and out from under
tufts of fallen shrubbery, as though they were
playing uhide and go seek." And in the pleasure
those pleasant memories bring, I will try to write
up a few of those old country scenes.

CHAPTER II.

EMBARKING ON THE VOYAGE.

"Adieu my native land adieu,

The vessel spreads her swelling sails,

Perhaps I never more may view
Your fertile fields, your flowering dales."

HAT noise and confusion, attends the getting

a ship loaded with her cargo and ready-
to set sail.

One'that never took a sea voyage or went to
the pier to see a vessel off, can scarcely imagine
the great turmoil there is in getting a ship laden
with her freight of stores and human beings.
We were at the pier some time before we went
on board, and such a clashing and uproar was
nearly deafening; although they had been days
before loading on her cargo. At last the gang
plank is thrown out for the passengers to come
on board.

Standing on the upper deck I watched the
passengers as they came thronging on board.
What a sea of human faces. There were young
men and fair-faced girls, old gray-haired men and
women, fond fathers and mothers with their little
children, all streaming on board this mighty
queen of the seas. Here one is obliged to witness
the sad parting with friends, and I must say the
peculiar surroundings seem to make it appear to

10EMBARKING ON THE VOYAGE.

11

one not accustomed to the sight, as a very sad
ordeal. They will follow on board the ship and
cling to their friends until they feel the trembling
of the vessel, and the last signal is given. All
must go ashore who are not going on the voyage.
Then the valedictions are sent Heavenward, " God
grant you a good voyage and a safe return."
Then wildly they rush off the ship, to stand and
watch till the receding vessel is lost to view. I
will not dwell longer on this scene.

At last all being ready, the whistle screams
out farewell to the land, and majestically our
good ship moves from the pier out into the dark
blue ocean laden with her precious freight of five
hundred souls.

" The anchor heaves, the ship swings free,

Our sails are full: To sea ! To sea \ "

While passing out of the harbor and entering
the blue expanse of the Atlantic, I almost felt that
we were leaving the world behind us ; and as I
watched the dimly receding shores of my native
land fade from my view, feelings of sadness for a
while overwhelmed me. But soon the great
ocean lies glittering before us with her white
foaming billows lashing themselves against the
sides of the vessel, as she sped on her way. Taking
a survey of that vast surface of water I was filled
with new ideas of its grandeur and majesty, and
with the poet, I feel that I shall never forget:12

A TRIP TO IRELAND.

•^The wonder, the awe, the delight that stole o'er me,
When billowy boundlessness spread before me."

The land is no longer in view, but we could not
exactly conform our feelings to embrace the same
spirit of fearlessness that possessed those old
sailors who could sing.

" But with a stout vessel and crew,

We'll say let the storm come down."

From the time you lose sight of land until you
are again landed on the opposite shore, all seems a
vacancy. There is a great difference in traveling
by land. New objects and new scenery are con-
tinually attracting the attention and rising up
before the mind to carry our thoughts from the
sad reflection that naturally forces itself on us
when we separate from home and friends. Far
different is the sea voyage. There is nothing but
the same vast expanse of water to greet our eyes
from day to day, and it looms up before the mind
with all its terrors, and you feel there lies a gulf
between you and home, and nerve yourself as you
will, a certain fear passes through your mind as
to the certainty of ever beholding that loved land,
again. Water everywhere we look, to the right,
to the left, in front of us and behind us, surround-
ed, surrounded completely by water, with two
or three miles under us. It is not much to be
wondered at if one should feel that it was some-
thing like a forlorn grandeur being out to sea.
'Tis then we begin to realize how utterly helplessEMBARKING Oil THE VOYAGE.

13

we are, and how dependent we are upon Him who
holds within His hands our future destinies. 'Tis
then we throw ourselves with confidence on His
mercy, for Him who tempereth the winds to carry
us safely through our voyage.

CHAPTER III.

THE VOYAGE.

" Softly along the silent sea,

The light-winged breezes creep,

So low, so calm, so tranquilly
They lull the waves asleep ;

And oh! as gladly on the tide

Our lofty vessel seems to ride
As if the calmly heaving sail
Had never met a sterner gale."

E sailed from New York, pier forty-six, on

the eighteenth of June, 1885, on the steam-
ship City of Chicago. It was a magnificent day,
one that might be called serenely beautiful. It was
so bright, calm and placid; and lovely weather
followed through the voyage ; there not being a
day or evening but that could be spent on deck
with pleasure.

It generally takes two or three days before one
gets'well used to their new life; then those who
have suffered from sea-sickness have recovered
and feel like attempting to enjoy themselves.

We are out on the broad ocean, and for a time
separated from the busy world, and we may as
well lay our cares to one side for a while. The
green shores have long since vanished from view;
the glistening, gleaming waters have taken their
place, and adapting ourselves to the situation weTHE VOYAGE.

15

make the best of it, by seeking to enjoy ourselves
as well as the place and opportunity will afford.

y "Tis evening. In the fair June heavens sailed
the crescent moon in all its glory, shedding its
soft radiance over the decks and out on the bosom
of the great ocean, and the passengers skem
intent on enjoying themselves with music, singing
and dancing, as it would appear by the multitude
of noises kept up.

As we pace the lovely deck, catching the sweet
sea breeze, talking to some new made acquaint-
ance of the land left behind us of the anticipated
joys on landing, we are attracted to groups here
and there on the deck. On approaching nearer
we catch the soft melody of some sacred hymn
familiar to our ears, chanted out o'er the silvery
deep. Passing on in our walk we again pause, as
sweet strains greet our ears; this time it is the
cabin boy, perched upon some of the rigging,

" Hard is the fate of the poor sailor boy."

Again we move on, but soon our attention is
attracted by the tones of some musical instru-
ment wafted on the breeze from the lower deck.
There they are tripping the light fantastic toe.
So you see amid all the danger they never give up
to melancholy nor get despondent.

Now I have given you some idea how pleas-
antly an evening can be spent on board a ship.
You no doubt would be interested to know how16

A TRIP TO IRELAND.

we managed to get through those dull days. Ha!
ha! I must laugh; then will say, we make the
world we live in, dull or cheerful, as we are a
mind to take it; whether on land or on sea, and
in that view we may remark; these words we have
read somewhere "We make the world we live in,
and we weave about us webs of good and ill,
which leave their impress on our souls." And
our present happiness wiH generally be the greater
if we can bring cheerfulness to those we mingle
with.

"What then, remains but well our power to use,

And keep good humor still whate'er we lose."

And we are not going to have a dull time alto-
gether, if we are out to sea, with seemingly noth-
ing to break the monotony. In praise of the
ladies, I will say it seems prominent for them to
exhibt an industrious disposition. They seemed
to make it a special point to accomplish a certain
amount of fancy work during the voyage, that it
might not be accounted lost time. If the weather
is fine they take their steamer chairs where they
can enjoy the sea breeze, and you will see them in
groups with their sewing, knitting and various
kinds of fancy work, chatting merrily together as
if they had always been neighbors; and at the
end of the voyage there is quite an exhibition
among themselves of their work. You will
always see numbers of the passengers promen-
ading the deck? walking as if they were on import-THE VOYAGE.

17

ant business, while many are engaged reading—
not the daily papers, but some interesting book
thought of in time, that serves its part very agree-
ably when tired of other pastimes.

Perhaps you will notice some young lady read-
ing aloud to a love sick swain lying at her feet.
Then looking away upon quarter deck you will
see some sitting on coils of rope or leaning on the
railing looking away out on the broad expanse of
water stretched before their visions in all its
grandeur, with deep meditation marked on their
features. So in various ways the days are spent
on board a ship. After I passed through the
regular ordeal of sea-sickness and recovered my
good nature—for it had been dreadfully tried—I
prepared to make the best use of the rest of the
voyage by taking in all that could be seen, and
studying ship life in its various modes. We were
allowed to visit the different decks; which I
believe is not always granted on steamers. It
thus afforded me the opportunity of viewing the
ship's different apartments, which was both pleas-
ant and amusing. What food for reflection there
is on board on of these noble ships. What a vast
machine is such a vessel, and how complicated the
construction which makes possible such a triumph
over the sea. We visited the engine room, we
paused before that wonderful piece of mechanism;
it attracts the attention and fills one with wonder
as the constant thud of her machinery rises above18

A TRIP TO IRELAND.

the noise of the dashing waves. Like the pulse of
a great heart faithfully performing its important
duty, as though endowed with human instinct it
guarded the hundreds of trusting helpless souls
confided to its charge, bearing them over the
raging sea, bringing them safely to port. I do
not wonder at the captains loving their ships so
dearly. One almost feels a reverence for a vessel
that has breasted the waves and pressed onward
through that mighty deep and landed him safely
on shore.

You can look from the deck down to the depth
of twenty or thirty feet and see the tremendous
furnaces kept running day and night. The men
that tend them can stand but four hours at a
shift, the heat is so intense. And when you reflect
on the tons of coal during the trip across to keep
those furnaces running, it makes one feel how sur-
rounded they are with those two destroying ele-
ments, fire and water.

Thus one of these great steamships seems a
perfect sea monster that feeds on fire, and what
a genius, what an inventive mind it took to con-
struct such a ponderous carriage to ride the ocean.CHAPTER TV.

t;he little people.

A dreary place would be this earth
Were there no little people in it,
The song of life would lose its mirth
Were there no children to begin it.'

—Whittier.

E had a goodly number of children on board

ship, and a happier little crowd I never saw.
Their merry laughter pealing forth in childish
glee as they rollicked over the deck would almost
make you wish you were back to childhood's days
again. They seemingly felt no terror at being
on sea, nor the horrors of seasickness did not
overpower them as it did many of the older ones,
which certainly was a blessing to them and a
great comfort to their mothers. It was amusing?
to watch their innocent sports, jumping the rope
which the sailors would lend them to play with,
and playing hide and seek, and their many games;
they play on land as happy as birds.

But as among all children you will find some
mischievous ones. We had one lad particularly so
always watching to play a trick on the little girls,
stealing their jumping rope, or running in and
tripping them while they were jumping; always
intent on some mischief.

But at last some of the boys held a consultation.

1920	A TRIP TO IRELA.ND.

and it was agreed upon to break up his rudeness
and try to cure him of his faults. So one day
while he was running off with the rope, and the
girls screaming a'fter him, some of the boys, who
were on the watch, caught him and he was brought
to trial and sentenced to a good flogging with the
rope, and they did their work well, for he had to
be carried to his berth and was seen no more that
day. He was very docile after that with the
girls, which seemed very pleasant to them after
so much discomfort.

He lost three hats overboard and had to be-
landed bareheaded. He was a wild case, but his
mother's pride ; she thought him to be a wonder-
ful boy, but many of the passengers wondered at
the mother's, blindness ; but it was very grati-
fying to know we would not have to endure it
long.

I do not presume this short sketch will interest
any of my readers but the young people, who
may learn a lesson from it: that it is better to act
agreeably in all places if we wish to have friends.CHAPTER Y.

THE TWO SISTERS.

" To be but simple commonplace

Is oft a human treasure,

And stands above some showier one
Beyond compare or measure. "

IF you are inclined to study human nature, here
you will be afforded the rarest opportunity to
gratify your taste in this vast assemblage of peo-
ple congregated on a steamship.

Among the many passengers that attracted the
attention of a few of the passengers,was that of a
company of three,consisting of a gentleman and his
two daughters who were going over to England.

The gentleman did not look past forty-five,
being very fair. The girls looked to be aged six-
teen and twenty. They were both comparatively
good looking, though not the least resemblance
to each other, as the younger was a blonde, and
the elder a brunette in complexion, with dark
eyes that could look fascinating or scornful at
pleasure. We were grouped together on deck,
reclining in our steamer chairs watching the foam
crested waves. It was our first afternoon out to
sea; all looked meditative. The younger of the
sisters approached me and entered at once into

conversation, and as one generally likes to talk

812£

A TRIP TO IRELANB.

on that which is dearest to the heart, her conver-
sation naturally drifted to their home they were
leaving.

She said they had contemplated this trip to
England a year ago, but with tears in her eyes she
told me of her mother's illness and death; and it
was put off until now her papa was taking them
over, and if he liked it there, they were to make
it their future home, but she added with a sigh
" it is hard to go among strangers."

Our conversation was soon arrested by the elder
sister speaking out in a commanding tone, " Go
down to the state room, and bring me a wrap."
The air had begun to get quite cool, as we were
many miles from land now, and as evening ap-
proached there was a real sea breeze to be felt.

From that day I was convinced their natures
were as unlike as their general appearance, and I
quickly made up my mind to study the character
of those two sisters, if sisters they were.

Feeble are the attractions of the fairest forms if
it be suspected that nothing within corresponds to
the pleasing appearances without; and I felt at
once that there was no attraction for me in that
dark-eyed commanding creature, so I held aloof
from entering into friendship with her, to watch
her tyranny over my little blonde friend, as I will
call her; for I soon became warmly attached
to her.

No sooner was the wrap brought than some-THE TWO SISTERS.

23

thing else was needed for her ladyship's comfort.
I noticed she never addressed her only in an imper-
ative manner. Not long after observing the un-
naturalness of the sister I took notice of the
father's manner toward the two girls.

While my friend was treated with indifference,
every attention was lavished on the other. He
was ever on the alert to amuse that black-eyed
beauty. They would promenade the deck to-
gether ; they would stand by the railing of the
ship with their eyeglasses poised watching some
passing vessel afar off. When tired of the deck
and open air they would lounge in the saloon, to
the utter neglect of her who ought to have been
their dearest companion in society.

Their strange actions were the comment of the
passengers who came in noticeable contact with
them. Whenever my friend would try to join
them some frivolous excuse would cause them to
move quarters. The. sadness that depicted itself
on her countenance touched our heart with pity.

But she was so quiet, so reticent, we could never
feel familiar enough to question her. She seemed
to want to keep all her sorrow and troubles to
herself, thinking, probably, that she was hiding
all from the world.

1 would often see her away off by herself;
sometimes upon the quarter-deck, siting on a coil
of rope, looking so sad and pensive, as if this world
held no charms for her. On approaching, her24

A TRIP TO IRELAND.

countenance would brighten up, and she would
commence conversing in such a light, free manner
you could scarcel}7" think that little heart was being
crushed if you were not really an observer of the
facts. But such was the nature of that true-
spirited girl she could never be brought to reveal
her feelings, or speak of the way her father and
sister acted toward her. I scorned to pry into her
misery, or broach a subject which I knew would
be repulsive to her better nature. I would be as
gay and lively as possible while in her company-
I was willing to do all I could to cheer-that lonely
little being that was away out on the briny ocean,
drifting far from the scenes of her childhood
home to a strange land with, seemingly, no
friends.

I feel as though I never could forget that sad,
sorrowful face, as I saw it for the last time. We
had hove in sight of land; all the passengers were
on deck, looking out at the beautiful picture before
them with joyful countenances that we were once
more in sight of land.

The black-eyed beauty, with her loving papa
had a good position near the railing. They stood
looking on the scene with animated faces, when
my little friend, standing near, unobserved before,
exclaimed:

" O, Papa, see! Is not that beautiful?"

In a twinkle they whirled and were off to
another part of the ship, A gleam of triumphTHE TWO SISTERS.

25

shone from those dark eyes as she turned and
locked back at her sister, who stood there for a
few minutes watching them as they moved away,
pale and forlorn, her eyes brimming with tears,
her lips quivering with the anguish of her heart.

At last she turned and went down, I suppose to
her room. All the beauty of the scenery had fled
from her sight. It held no charms to console that
wounded heart. She wished to be alone to hide
that flood of tears she could no longer repress
from those who could do nothing but pass a glance
of pity on the poor child. Trying to hide her
misery from the world. What a hard thing it is
to do! It was the last time I saw her, as I landed
at Queenstown and .they were going on to Liver-
pool.

I find myself often wondering as to the fate of
my poor little friend, or if those' two girls were
really sisters. It seemed a mystery

CHAPTER VI.

THE WANDERING JEW.

In vain we fondly strive to trace
The soul's reflection in the face;

In vain we dwell on lines or crosses,

Crooked mouth or short proboscis.

Moore.

AS I stated in a former chapter, if you love to
study human nature, or, as Moore puts it,
" Strive to trace_ the soul's reflection in the face,"
here you are blessed with the greatest of oppor-
tunities, and it also relieves and rests the mind, and
keeps one from growing weary and flagging for
want of scenery, or the dull monotony of day-
dreaming, which often leads to melancholy.

Nature, it is said, abhors a vacuum, and this old,
peripatetic principle may be properly applied to
the intellect, which will embrace anything how-
ever absurd rather than be wholly without an
object. Thus it is we pace and walk, and talk—
ever on the move.

This is the seventh day out to sea. I have

visited the various departments of our ship; I

have taken a peep in at the baker, donned in his

snow-white cap and apron, making his pies,

cookies and fine buns; then into the kitchen

department, to see the cook tending his roasts of

26ME WANDERIHG JEW.	27

meat of different kinds, while other hands were
preparing the various vegetables; peeling pota-
toes, turnips, onions, etc., and I pause to ponder
over the vast amount it takes to run this great
hotel. I stood at the door of the engine room
looking at that beautiful construction of mech-
anism that toils on so incessantly to bring the
ship to port; have watched the children at their
merry games; have listened to the old people
relating the dangers they have passed through, in
storms at sea; have leaned over the railing at the
ship's side again and again watching the huge
porpoises diving argund as if they were after the
great baskets of food we had seen emptied over
into the sea. All that had grown old. Could I
not find something new, something I had not got
accustomed to. I paced the deck, I gazed among
the passengers to see if there was not some one I
had not seen before, for, as strange as it may seem,
up to the last day on board a ship, there will appear
some strange face in the throngs that pace the deck
day after day. To-day my eyes are wandering
through that crowd, looking for that new visage,
wondering in my mind what attraction it may
possess to lead my fancy on in studying out the
"lines and crosses, crooked mouths or short
probQscis," to while away my busy brain, as
boobies long ago have done; for anything that
will break the monotony of the surrounding ex-
panse will be beneficial.28

A TRIP TO IRELAND.

Soon I was to be relieved of anxious watching,
as a friend fortunately arrived in time to save
me from sinking into despair. He laughingly
remarked, "Have you seen the wandering Jew ?" I
quickly responded "no;" and as quickly exclaimed,
"where is he?" for at once I was somewhat excited
at the idea of seeing such a personage on board
our ship. You have all probably heard the story
of the "Wandering Jew," the poor old man who
is pilgrimaging to and fro, waiting for the
Messiah. I do not mean to say this quaint
looking individual was the real wandering Jew
that is supposed to be roaming over the world;
but it might puzzle you to guess his age, this
is why he was personated by the passengers
as the "Wandering Jew." Before proceeding
further I will explain to you where I first beheld
the subject of this sketch; besides it will give
you an idea of some of the ship's apartments.

There are hatchways on the lower deck to let
the heavy luggage down in what is called the
hold of the ship, and also serve the purpose of
ventilators. They are covered with strong cross-
bars like heavy lattice work, and in time of
storms a piece of heavy tarred canvass is put over
them to prevent the water from going down
through.

My friend leading the way we proceeded to the
lower deck. Coming to one of those hatchways
which was directly over the men's dining roomTHE WANDERING JEW.

29

belonging to the steerage we stopped. Leaning
over and looking down I beheld that wonderful
personage, our Jew. He was sitting at one of the
dining room tables reading from an old and as
quaint a looking book as he himself appeared.

Well I surely felt that I had seen a new and
strange face among the passengers. While not
of very charming appearance, still it held sufficient
attractions to fill my busy brain with galore
enough for that day. But at every available
opportunity I would try to see our old Jew pas-
senger. Mot to dwell on the lines in his face, for
these were rather too many, nor to attempt to read
in his countenance the reflection of his soul. I
think the reader would like to know what he did
'look like. I will try to give you some idea of his
personal appearance, though you must know it is
quite impossible to* delineate that old man's coun-
tenance that would make him appear familiar to
the reader, as if you had really seen him; but I
will try to do the best I can in describing him
and you can let your imaginations work out the
rest.

He was very tall,, quite thin, and somewhat
stooped. His hair hung down to his shoulders
and was white. He wore a small black cap, just
covering the top of his head. His beard was very
long and white, and almost covered his dried and
swarthy face. His countenance was silent and
meditative. He moved around slowly and softly30

A TRIP TO IRELAND.

with cat-like tread. His eyes were dark and
mysterious looking. He was seldom seen on deck;
he made friends with no one,—did not seem to
wish to enter into conversation.

Upon inquiry we learned he was going back to
Jerusalem to spend the remainder of his life. He
was constantly poring over his old book, which
was printed in the Jewish language, but whether
it was an old Jewish Bible or not we did not
learn. But it was evident that he was more inter-
ested in it than anything else that surrounded
him.	*

CHAPTER VII.

SUNSET AT SEA.

"And look, how soft in yonder radiant wave
The dying sun prepares his golden grave."

—Moore.

AS we are approaching the end of our voyage
I will give a short sketch of a sunset at sea,
winding up with an evening reverie. There was not
a cloud to be seen, and the bright rays of the setting
sun were glancing their mellow beams on those
tossing waves until they reflected like gold.

It was the delight of many of the passengers to
assemble on deck in the evening to watch the
parting rays of the sun as it set. To see the
beautiful beams of lights and shadows spreading
out and blending in such a variety of hues. How
brilliant the sun looked—like a liquid ball of fire,
just above those sparkling waves. Ah! if it were
possible to paint such a scene with all its grandeur
and glorious colorings. Artists in general dis-
criminate too little in the coloring of the rising
from the setting sun, though there is a great dif-
ference in the lights and shadows in the parting
rays of the sun to its rising beams. The effects
of the rising sun are generally thought to be pro-
duced by the vapor which surrounds it. The set-
ting sun rests its glory in the gloom which accom-
panies its departure.

3132

A TRIP TO IRELAND.

Low down in the west the sun is sinking in
all its glory, as our steamer pursues her way
across the pathless world of water; and the pas-
sengers, in groups, are gazing in rapt admiration
at the beautiful picture before them, of a sunset
at sea, and our thoughts are elevated to a sense
of sublimity which imparts to us deeper ideas as
we meditate on Him whose dwelling is the light
of suns. Nothing standing in the foreground to
fling a shadow athwart the sky; no clouds obscure
its effulgence, and it lights up the water with a
radiance, and almost in whispers you will hear the
words, how beautiful, as it seemed to drop in the
depths of that cold blue sea. c< The sun h§,s set."
The last lingering flush of his reluctant departure
has shaded into the soft gray of the descending
night.

The mighty ocean sighs and murmurs restlessly,
as though desiring rest, but finding none. Our
great steamship pouring out from her tall funnels
dense columns of inky smoke that follow ever in
her wake, is the only moving object in all this
vast expanse.

EVENING.

The night has fallen ; and such a night does not
always come; as though it had only drawn a thin
veil over the day, just sufficient wind blowing to
freshen the waves; and the passengers, loth to go
in, sit in silent reverie, as though the shades of
evening had cast a gloom of silence over ourSUNSET AT SEA.

33

spirits, and each one is waiting for the other to
arouse from their musing. But only for a short
time do we indulge in dreaming reverie, for soon
the moon, full-orbed, shows her broad visage in
the eastern sky, and the face of the great ocean
is again lit up, not with the golden glow the sun
had cast, but with a serene light that reflected a
silvery radiance on every tossing wave, and we
are awakened from our stupor to the overwhelm-
ing conviction of these words : "Great and mar-
velous are Thy works, O Lord; who would not
fear Thee and glorify Thy name %" How calmly
gliding through the dark blue sky the moon
ascends, casting her placid beams of mellow light,
over the deck, as if to cheer our drooping spirits
and gladden our hearts with her silvery radiance.

"Sweet moon; if like Oretona's sage
By any spell my hand could dare
To make thy disk its ample page,

And write my thoughts, my wishes there,
And all my heart and soul could send
To many a dear-loved, distant friend."

Overhead the stars are twinkling bright, seem-
ingly proud of their numbers reflected in the sea.
The sound of music, singing and revelry is again
at its height; and the merry conversation, with
its ripple of laughters, floats out upon the dreamy
silence of night from the lighted apartments
below; but numbers of the passengers are still
promenading the deck, preferring the coolness of34:

A TRIP TO ICELAND.

the outer air to the heated atmosphere within.
Going to the side of the vessel, I leaned over the
railing, gazing down at the shining silvery foam
sending up with every tossing wave myriads of
phosphorescent lights that glistened and sparkled
like diamonds, and I enjoyed the beauty of the
moon's sweet, friendly face, casting her soft,
mellow beams over those tossing billows.

How serenely beautiful! A night for reflec-
tion !

"Ah, wliither art straying, thou spirit of light,

From thy home in the boundless sky ?

Why lookest thou down from thy empire of night,
With that silent and sorrowful eye?

4' Thou art glancing down on the ocean waves,
As they proudly heave and swell;

Thou art piercing deep in its coral caves,

Where the green haired nymphs dwell.

" Hail, beam of the blessed! My heart
Has drunk deep of thy magical power,

And each thought and each feeling seems bathed
In the light of this exquisite hour!

" Then let me upward gaze, beyond thy silver rays,

For all thy splendors shine from rays more pure than thine.

"£Juthark! the boatswains piping tell
'Tis time to bid my dream farewell."

Yes, the decks are cleared at ten o'clock, and
all must go to their berths whether they like it or
not. There are many that dislike that part of ship
life very much in consequence of getting into such
narrow quarters; but one must get accustomed toSUNSET AT SEA.

35

it, like a great many other things. As for myself,
I did not like the idea of such high side boards to
our berths; but when I saw how easily one could
be rolled out on the floor by the rocking of the
vessel, I was very well satisfied with the high side-
boards, and lost all desire for being bolstered up
very high, and gave up looking for real comforts
on board a ship.

There is nothing lessens our troubles quicker
than to make the best of our situations, and not
to expect too many comforts in this life, whether
on land or sea.

CHAPTER YIII.

the young motheb.

This life is all checkered with pleasures and woes
That chase one another like waves of the deep;

Each billow, as brightly or darkly it flows,

Reflecting our eyes as the sparkle or weep.

—Moore

IN the vast assembly of passengers on board a
ship, it gives great room for reflection on the
strange destiny of the human family; and you
need not be surprised to hear that some are seek-
ing for wealth, some are going for their health,
some for pleasure are roaming, and some scarce
know why they are going.

How buoyant the spirits of some; how sad and
pensive others. Thus this life is seemingly made
up of pleasures and woes; and you can not travel
far without being forcibly impressed that th^ lives
of some seem to be marked with a destiny;
whether it is a want of foresight or a recklessness
that might have been avoided we do not under-
stand, and I will not try to discuss, merely saying
by using judgment many times we might have
marked a better course.

Before leaving the subject of my voyage going

over to Ireland, I will give you another short

sketch of one of our passengers, "The Young

Mother," who favored me with the story of a sa4

80THi) YOUNG MOTHER.

37

epoch in her life. In passing through the steer-
age on my first visit to that department, I noticed
a gentleman standing in the doorway which led
to his room, holding a small bundle in his arms
which now and then he cautiously peeped in at.
He had such a smiling countenance I presumed to
ask him what he had in the shawl that seemed so
precious. He opened it a little way, disclosing
to me the sweetest little facQ I ever saw. I asked
him how old it was; he said four weeks when they
took shipping. I remarked rather a young pass-
enger. While looking at the babe, the mother
leaned over the berth smiling as I looked at her
infant child. I was rather struck with the appear-
ance of the woman, she looked so young and
beautiful. I had not seen such a sweet face
among the passengers. Yet there was a reflec-
tion of sadness in those passive eyes which
impressed me that there was some unhappiness in
her life.

As often as the opportunity afforded me I would
make my way down for a few minutes to see the
young mother and babe. I had to be careful as
you are restricted some in your visits. I would
carry some little delicacy I felt sure would be
acceptable, and I was always greeted with that
same sweet smile. I had no conversation with
her during the voyage; not until we were landed
at Queenstown, and we were thrown in each '
other's company in the inspection house. We were38

A TBIP TO IRELAND.

seated on one of the benches that encircle the
room, I holding down my valise with my two
feet to keep a big burly fellow from taking it; he
declaring it had not been inspected because he
could not see the mark; the mark happened to be
next to the floor, and I would not condescend to
show it to him. I told him it had been inspected
all it was going to be and he had better be off with
himself or I would call someone that would make
him go Suddenly. She remarked, "You were right
plucky with that sharper." Yes, it would have
been the last I would ever have seen of my valise.
She asked me if I had ever been across the, ocean
before. I answered, ".No, this is my first trip; I am
among strangers and feel somewhat lonesome.
But it is different with you, I presume ; you are at
home and expect soon to meet your friends, which
will be a great pleasure to you."

"The friends I am going to see are as strangers
to me yet, and I cannot anticipate so much pleas-
ure, no! no!" she answered, in a plaintive wail."It
is far from pleasure, it is the saddest day of my
life; my heart is breaking," she piteously moaned,
"at being landed here. O, if I was only back to
America." I asked her why she had such feel-
ings. Then she told me the sad story of her life.
It was the old, old story of a rich man's son being
sent adrift in the world for marrying a poor girl.
I listened with interest as she related the trials
and troubles that she had endured through hard-THE YOtTNG MOTHER.

39

hearted parents, who disowned their son for mar-
rying her. She was a milliner by trade and
worked for her living; her husband was a son of
what they styled a gentleman in that country.

He became acquainted with her, fell in love
with her and in spite of all their protestations he
married her. The consequence was he was sent
adrift and disinherited. They collected together
their little mite and embarked for America. Being
raised in idleness, and having no natural ambition,
he did not know how to go to work.

On landing in New York they rented rooms in
a tenement house in the city, and soon lived away
what money they had. She begged him to try
and get farther West. He, like many others, seemed
to think New York City is America, and could
not be induced to try the West. At last grim
poverty stared them in the face; sickness and
death came and took away their first-born. He
had written home appeal after appeal, but they
heeded not his cries for help and forgiveness ; he
could not work enough to keep them from suffer-
ing. So, with a hard struggle he at last procured
their tickets for Ireland, and determined to face
the worst. -He would go home, and on his knees
implore them to take him back as their son and
save them from starvation. " And here we are
landed in Ireland with but a shilling in our pock-
ets, and do not know what will become of us. I
am so proud," she said, " I would rather starve in40

A TRIP TO IRELAND.

America than come back so humble, but he had no
ambition to try to work for his living." Poor
woman, I was truly sorry for her, as she sat there
clasping her young infant in her arms, the picture
of despair. I did what I could to cheer her up,
told her to hope for the best, they might relent
when they saw him in such destitution, and their
little babe might warm up their hearts.

Having had all our trunks rummaged through,
our business was at an end* at the inspection house,
and we prepared for the station to meet the train
to bear us onward in our journey.

CHAPTEK IX

4 MY FIRST GLIMPSE OF IRELAND.

Thus through life's stages may we mark the power

It tempts him from the blandishments of home,
Mountains to climb and seas to roam.

—Sprague.

E are again on land, though far from the

home we left. Nine days took us from shore
to shore. We have passed over the dangerous voy-
age, and we feel thankful to Him who has kept us
safe through it. I will never forget my first im-
pressions as we neared the beautiful harbor of
Queenstown, surrounded by hills and forts. I was
both bewildered and delighted with what I saw,
everything so unlike what I had seen before. Noth-
ing I had pictured in imagination compared with
this true picture of nature presented to my view.
All this may sound somewhat extravagant to the
reader^ but I am giving my impression without
any intentional exaggeration. It is said a first
impression is one never to be repeated. Albeit,
more may attract the eye at the second look, but
it "will fail to produce that same sensation of
admiration you feel as you look for the first time
at some picturesque scenery. As you enter the
harbor the glowing green strikes one. To heighten
the impression, the country was in its most beau-

That masters man in every changing hour.

4142	A TRIP TO IRELANl).

tiful season. Xhe thatched cottages and flowering
hedgerows were all new sights to me. The ivy
mantled every old tower and ruin. The haw-
thorn, furze and woodbine were all in full bloom,
making the hedgerows as we whirled along the
road to Cork a mass of pink, white and yellow
"blended together, and, filling the air with their
sweet fragrance. Such was my first greeting as
I touched the soil of the beautiful "Emerald Isle."
And as I looked on the green fields and meadows
in their high state of cultivation i thought of the
poor Irish laborer who tills the soil and brings it
to such perfection. However worthy or indus-
trious he cannot own a foot of the soil he toils so
hard to make his living on. No, it all belongs to
great estates; it is not for the man that cultivates
it, and I felt it is their country, and yet it is
not. Under such rules and regulations surely
their lot is hard.

But no one could look on the beauty of that
country and wonder any longer that they love it
so. And after being driven from it, many through
starvation, and all for the sake of freedom, their
hearts still cling to that little green isle that gave
them birth.

There was a laughable little incident that hap-
pened on approaching Queenstown, Those that
were to land at Q'ueenstown and the mail were
transferred to a small boat called a tender, which
piloted us to shore. Before arriving at the pierMy first glimpse of Ireland.

43

the officers gave the-command that the first-class
passengers and the mail were to be taken ashore
first. It was rather dampening to the feelings of
more than two-thirds of the passengers to be with-
in a few feet of shore and have to wait a couple of
hours for those mail bags to be taken on shore first.

There every passenger stood with satchels and
valises in hand, with a determined look on their
faces; there were the officers giving commands.
The gang plank was thrown out and before the
men could gather up the mail bags and take the
plank the passengers had it, and they just
streamed across until every one was landed
safely on shore. The officers did some shouting
and swearing, but to no avail; they had all got
ashore, the mail might come as it could. Here we
were accosted on every side by men and boys
with their donkey carts (called cars in that
country) wanting to bring our trunks to the in-
spection house, and another vehicle called a " side
car," to take passengers in. It is a two-wheeled
vehicle with seats on the sides, and the passengers
ride back to back, there being a high place be-
tween the seats called the box, which the driver
occupies. Four persons only can ride besides the
driver at a time, and horse or donkey, whichever
they have, is hitched very close to the car, and
between shafts like a cart, and they jolt you along
at a fearful rate. As the driver is intent on
making all he can, the sooner he gets you to youru

A TfeiP TO IRELAND.

place of destination the better, and back he goes
for another load.

We were soon brought to the great inspection
house, where our trunks were thoroughly in-
spected. We got through that ordeal; then we
were jolted up to the depot. Here we were
besieged with beggars, which greet you at every
footstep. " Please, in the name of God, give us
a penny," responding as they clutch the dropping
coin, "May God bless ye and give ye plenty all
the days of your life," and perhaps will be added
a safe voyage home, for they know the tourist at
sight. But they wer*> too numerous to be pleas-
ant, even if you were to be rewarded with their
blessings. We Quickly procured our tickets for
Mallow, with a lay-off at " Blarney " station, be-
tween Cork and Mallow. The scenery between
Queenstown and Mallow is beautiful; your eyes
would never tire looking at the pretty vine-
covered lodges, gardens and green fields; lovely
flowers blooming everywhere, over fields, hills and
hedges, fill you with delight as you whirl along on
the train to Cork and thence to Mallow.

Though some tired with travel, we thought
as we were near "Blarney Castle" we might as
well take a look at it as, through the events of
ratvel, it might be overlooked.

So when the train slowed up at the station we
got off and proceeded to make a tour to find
that old castle that has in its possession that won-MY FIRST GLIMPSE OF IRELAND.

45

derful rock which makes the Irishman so gifted
with " blarney." (You understand I speak a little
from experience.)

Well, the old castle is famous for its " Blarney
Stone," anyhow. There, are two which are
claimed to possess ihe power. One is very large,
and lies in the ruins of the old castle, having
fallen years ago. The other is high up, project-
ing from the wall near the top, and cannot be got
at without hanging down from the top, which we
concluded was a very difficult feat that we would
not care about undertaking. I think there are
very few that enjoy the privilege of kissing the
high-up blarney stone, as it is attended with too
much labor for so little gain. It has the appear-
ance of once being a lordly castle as it towers up
a hundred feet or more. Its walls are very
massive, being eight feet thick. Although a ruin
it is still beautiful, being covered to the very top
with masses of ivy, which in Ireland is the great
beautifier of whatever is old ; clinging to the
mouldering walls, covering up large rents and
making the most unsightly ruin lovely in its decay.
I will here relate the legend of the ivy which
grows in such abundance in Ireland.

It is said that when Bacchus, the god of wine,
was traveling through Ireland he endeavored to
rear a grape vine, but it would not grow. Taking
from his wreath the ivy that bound it, and plant-
ing it in the earth, said, " Hail! flourish forever,46

A TRIP TO IRELAND.

for thou shalt flourish, child of the shade and of
the shower; and if, as the prophet of old foretold,
this island, now so beautiful, should be doomed in
future ages to be strewn with the ruins of her
temples and the altars of her gods, do thou em-
brace them and make them more lovely in their
desolation than the towers and temples of other
nations in all their uninjured grandeur." It is
surely true, whether the prophet foretold it or
not. Ireland is full of ruins, and they must have
been beautiful castles once; and it seems that
Ireland is more prolific in the ivy plant than any
other country in Europe, and it surely embraces
those old ruins as if it would change their un-
sightly appearance and make them one of beauty.
One cannot help but look with wonderment at
those old ruins; they possess such a romantic
interest.

To see those huge walls; long, narrow windows,
not more than three inches on the outside, but
very wide on the inside, in consequence of the
thickness of the walls; then the many little re-
cesses in the walls which served for storing provis-
ions or ammunition, probably both—everything
in their construction goes to show they were
built for security against the enemy, and as some
• poet describes it:

"To-day tho* roofless are thy walls,

Time and decay have wrought old castle
But little change since thy grand halls
Rang with the war cry and the wassail."M? FIRST GLIMPSE OF IRELAND.	47

But leaving the old castle we take the evening
train bearing us onward in our journey to the
loved home and fond old mother who will be sur-
prised to see her son again, and most of all, I
think, to see his Yankee wife, as they persist in
calling the Americans.

Arriving safely in Mallow we put up at the
hotel and I felt glad that we were going to have a
rest from the turmoil of travel. Mallow is one of
the most ancient towns in the south of Ireland,
situated on the north side of the Blackwater river.
It lies nearly east and west. Its principal streets
are Main street, Ballydahen street, Bridge street,
Beecher and New streets. New street starts near
the centre of the town, running north to the mar-
ket and fair grounds. The Mallow station is west
of the town, on a slight eminence of ground. Con-
venient to the station is the Koyal Hotel and fine
gardens. East of the hotel is a beautiful lawn
dotted with stately trees, comprising several acres,
being the drill ground of the "Irish Militia."

On leaving the station there is a gradual descent
going into Mallow which gives a fine view of the
town and river, with a bold rise of mountains in
the distance southward.

We spent a couple of days in Mallow before we
went out to the farm where our friends lived. We
made many acquaintances and received the kind-
est hospitality, for which the Irish people are
noted, We visited a number of old antiquated48

A TRIP TO IRELAND.

places around Mallow. It is surrounded with old
ruins they call "forts" and battle-fields, and
tumbled-down castles, showing terrible conflicts
of olden times. Tradition, though, hands the
story down in two ways. One' is that they are
the remains of old forts which were erected dur-
ing the wars in Ireland. The other story is that
they are the remains of ancient residences and
towns.

We spent hours wandering through these old
ruins trying to enlighten our minds as to what
they were, or rather what they had been ; but it
was no use whatever; we had to accept the stories
as they were given us.

The people have dug among many of them in
search of treasure and relics supposed to be buried
in them.

I never heard that anyone became rich in their
explorations, but many relics have been found,
such as hatchets and battle-axes made of stone.
A friend made us a present of one he had dug
from the ruins of an old fort near where he lived,
and we prize it very much.

A little in the suburbs of Mallow is a spring
they called the u Spa," its waters are considered
highly medicinal and consequently is a resort for
invalids. There is a very fine building erected
over it, where you can rent rooms.

The grounds surrounding it are certainly an ideal
p| beauty. The lawn, the shade trees, with rusticMY FIRST GLIMPSE OF IRELAND.

49

seats here ^tnd there, the flower gardens sending
forth sweet ^perfume from the many varieties of
flowers growing in them; all is enchanting to the
poor invalid. Then there is the " bath-house,"
where yon can have a bath of any temperature
you desire.

It looked to me as though we could hardly
remain sick within such beautiful surround-
ings. The room that covers the spring has a
nice stone floor, with seats around to accommo-
date the visitors, and the counter with plenty of
glasses.

The spring has a neat railing around it, and
three steps leads you down to the water.

"VVe were told by the attendant that it was never
affected by drouth or freshet, never rising nor
falling, which is surely remarkable. The water
is led into the city by pipes, flowing into a large
reservoir; thence it comes dashing and sparkling
through a number of metallic dogs' heads. The
people go with their pitchers and buckets and get
water from there. It supplies a large portion of
the city. Leaving the Spa house and grounds,
we will make a tour to an old ruin called the old
" Mallow or Jipson Castle/' It lies south of
Mallow, near theN Blackwater river. This old
castle was built many centuries back during the
early wars between the "English and the Irish.
It is pierced with port-holes, being built for mili-
tary purposes. Its walls are many feet thick50

A TRIP TO IRELAND.

and are covered with ivy, so that they are almost
entirely obscured from. view.

We saw during our stay in Mallow many beau-
tiful gardens. But the most curious looking tree
we saw, and one that puzzled us most, was called
the " Monkey puzzle," being the only tree a mon-
key cannot climb. It had no leaves on it, but the
limbs and ends of the branches and the whole
body was literally covered with burrs, and the
branches were quite close, and the monkey that
undertook to climb that tree would have no fur
left on him; it was a perfect curiosity. This tree
also had another name, but not setting it clown
in my memorandum book it slipped my memory.

CHAPTER X.

THE WELCOME.

" The leaves of memory's casket ope
Trembling with tales of yore ;

Of hearts, home treasures, O how dear;

. Bright dewdrops sparkling o'er."

O sweet and bounteous hospitality, so cheering
when you are away from home, and especial-
ly when in a strange land. With what assurance
it lightens the heart when we hear that dear
word of welcome. I was miles away from my
loved home, and that selfish spirit so predominant
in the whole human family was welling up in my
bosom, and every now and then a lonesome sigh
would escape my lips as thoughts of home and
friends would flit across my mind. But was it
not home to one of us ? ah ! yes; and to note the
gladness in his heart as he was nearing his child-
hood home must content me. Could I not cast
aside for a short time my lonesome feelings at
being ip a strange land, to add to his pleasure.
Yes, there are times when you will forget your
own sorrow, when you see you can add to the joy
of others by hiding your heart aches from their
view. And oftentimes we are rewarded for our
self-sacrifice by meeting with such a warm wel-
come and friendly greeting our lonesome feelings

5152

A TRIP TO IRELAND.

are at once dispelled and we feel almost at home
under such hospitality as is shown to us.

I will not soon forget, though, the sad and
lonesome feelings I experienced the first time I was
left alone in that strange land. J. thought he would
go to.see his friends first without me, and bring
them to see me, so leaving, me at the hotel where
we were stopping, he took a car and started out
to see his friends; the distance being three miles.
My mind had been so engrossed with the
many things incident" to travel, thoughts of home
and friends had not as yet weighed very
heavily on my mind, and not until I was left alone
did I realize that terrible feeling of loneliness.
How I longed to see myown home and the dear
friends I had left; how I had remembered the
pressure of the hand, the fond kiss, the quivering
lips that murmured good-bye. I paced the floor
of the parlor and gave full vent to my feelings.
I went to the window and looked down on the
street; it seemed to be a very busy day as there
were a great many people on the street, and a
number of those two wheeled vehicles, with don-
keys hitched to them. I learned they were used
more than horses for hauling produce to market
and around the farm, as they were easier managed
in the car. And such a noise as they kept up
with their continuous braying. But the music
had no effect in soothing my gloomy spirits. The
landlady came in once and ventured to remark,the -welcome.

53

" you are very lonesome it appears among
strangers, and it is worse ye will be getting if ye go
out in the country with them plain folks; ye
ought to stay in town by all means " and out she
flew leaving rne alone with my reflections, and to
ponder over what she had said in regard to the
country and " them plain folks."

I did not at first comprehend her purport, but
afterwards I concluded she did not like the idea of
loosing us as boarders. Soon I heard voices and
footsteps approaching the door; it opened, there
stood J. with his aged mother and other friends.
With extended arms she came forward and clasped
me to her bosom exclaiming, " welcome, my daugh-
ter, welcome." Other friends came forward giving
me a warm welcome, and congratulating us on our
safe voyage; and as we chatted on merrily I soon
forgot my gloomy apprehensions and felt quite
comfortable; and as the evening approached and
our friends prepared to return to their home I had
regained my good spirits and promised we would
be ready on the morrow to go out to the farm.

The thread of our life would be dark indeed if it
were not with friendship and love intertwined ; I
felt I had found friends on the other side of the
continent, by the warm welcome I had received,
and it was a comfort after our long journey. *
44 Then, oh what a pleasure, where'er we rove
To find something still that is dear,

Though far from the home that I loved,

I had found another right here."54:

A TRIP TO IRELAND.

Notwithstanding our landlady's prediction
that I would be more lonesome in the country, I
accepted the warm invitation, and the next day
found us preparing for our journey to country
scenes. Along in the afternoon the old farm car
and the bobtailed horse came jogging in after our
trunks. We put them aboard the car and sent them
on. As our " side car " was at the door waiting
for us we took the leave of our good-hearted
landlady who gave us all her blessings, hoping we
would enjoy ourselves, but predicting the country
was just too lonesome for anybody. She did not
realize it would be a treat to me, as it was so
different from my own country, and that it would
so completely captivate as it eventually proved.
W"e proceeded to start, I could not refrain from
smiling as we took our seats on one side of the
car, and our neice Kate who had come in to ac-
company us out, took the other side; but soon
the smile lengthened into something like a laugh
when the driver addressed Miss Kate thusly,
" you must excuse me Miss, but I will have to
ride along side of ye to balance the car, as ye are
not heavy enough for the gentleman and lady on
the other side." I proposed putting us two
women on one side and he would be heavy enough
he thought to balance the car all right. But the
driver thought not at all, it would be more evenly
balanced the other way, and persisted in riding
in the seat with the Miss.THE WELCOME.

55

I winked at.Kate; she saw it was fun for me; I
was satisfied to let him have his own way rather
than running any risk of an accident, and it
seemed that it was necessary it should be balanced,
just so.

Well, we got started and such a ride I never had
in all my life, up hill and down, he never let the
horse slacken his gait an instant, it was " ge lang,
ge lang" every minute. I felt as if I was in a
whirlwind bounding along holding on to something
almost invisible. I just shook with laughter at
the way 1 had to hold on to that car notwithstand-
ing my discomfiture. But the roads, how beauti-
ful and smooth; and so very white, being macad-
amized with white limestone, they look almost like
snow in the distance.

There being no dust nor mud I thought it must
be delightful to ride in a conveyance that did not
jog quite so much.

At last we came to the end of our journey, and
almost breathless we alighted. Our friends were
standing out ready to greet us with that true
hospitality that they are gifted with t>y nature,
and this is the old farm home.

" When weary, lone, and sad we ponder

On loves and ties of days to come,

Backward let our thoughts meander
To memories of " Home, sweet home."

Home! What a magic there is in that small
word; it sends a thrill through the heart like56

A TRIP TO IRELAND.

nothing else will; when wearied with the noise
and bustle of the world, we long to put away the
cares of life and rest awhile from its toils and
strife. Where is there a place like the old home,
where one can bring back sweet memories of their
childhood days, and with the dear familiar hand
clasp and those heart-spoken words that ring
with love and kindliness, we are carried back in
thought to childhood days. And in childish
fancy we trace the paths we used to ramble over;
we drink from the same crystal spring that
quenched our thirst in childhood days. We sit
under the same old shade trees upon which we
carved our name years ago; all seems natural but
ourselves. Nothing seems to have grown older
but ourselves; nothing changed but ourselves.
Yes, from the careless, romping child we have
grown to the staid, thoughtful man full of the
cares of life. But if there is a place on earth
where a man can cast away the busy cares of life
and assume the buoyant spirit of his youth it is in
the old home of his birth. And as we were gath-
ered in the arms of that dear old mother it made
me happv to see her so full of joy and her son's
countenance beaming with delight. He was once
more in mother's arms ; he was once more in the
old home where he had sported in childish glee.
The trees, the paths, the spring were all familiar,
and he would enjoy them and make believe he
was a boy again. And there was joy again inTHE WELCOME.

57

that old home as we went in to partake of the
evening meal that had been prepared for us. The
fire-in the old fire-place lent a genial warmth that
felt good to me, as I was somewhat cold from my
swift ride. Soon the neighbors began to come in
to extend congratulations and bid us welcome,
and ask us numerous questions about America,
which we answered with delight, as it gave us
pleasure to interest them on a subject that was so
dear to our hearts as America was.

The evening passed olf very pleasantly, but
thinking we were still weary from travel they all
retired early and left us to enjoy a sweet night of
rest in the country, and my evening's ride had
put me in a good mood for it.CHAPTER II.

THE MORNING RAMBLE.

" My natal fields, long years have passed

Since thee I gazed upon,

But from my memory's inmost shrine
You never will be gone."

HE next morning I was up with the aawn, he

must go out and see the fields and smell the
fresh air on that lovely morn. He could not rest.
I knew the longing of his heart as he crept silently
out of the house. When he came back I was up
and dressed ; I asked him where he had been he
looked so bright and cheery ? He said : " O! I
have been up in the fields, looking all over the
place; everything is as fresh to my memory as if
I had never been away." After breakfast we will-
set out for a good ramble. During breakfast I
was the recipient of a lovely crimson moss-rose
with a bursting bud; a compliment from Miss
Minnie, our little niece. I must wear it during
breakfast; then I put it in water to preserve its
freshness. It was the handsomest moss-rose I
had ever seen, being as large jound as a pint cup,
and very fragrant; with its mossy stem ~and
bursting bud it was an ideal beauty; they are no
rare flower in Ireland, as they seem to thrive with
very little trouble, as also do a great variety of
roses. Breakfast being over we were ready for our

58THE MORNING RAMBLE.

59

ramble ; we soon started, our niece, Kate, accom-
panying us. It was amusing to her to see me load-
ing myself down with flowers as we went along.

Our friends have a very nice farm of one hun-
dred and twenty acres. It is divided into fields
with hedges. That is the way all the farms in
that country are divided off into different fields
and pastures. These hedges at a distance look
like small strips of timber. On approaching
nearer they present a lovely appearance, being
covered with beautiful shrubs among which is the
wild rose which grows to the height of four and
five feet. Also sweet-briar, and furze which bears
a bright yellow blossom, shaped like a sweet-pea
blossom. And the woodbine entwines itself among
and all over these tall flowers, presenting to the
eye a sight of charming beauty. Besides, there
are the " Bluebells," the "Nuneens" "Fairy
Thimbles," and hundreds of other little tiny
.flowers peeping out from under the taller ones, as
if they would say you cannot hide me.

I thought I never beheld such beauties of
nature. And the fields were not going to be out-
rivaled by thdr surrounding hedges, as they
showed by their dazzling appearance. After we
clambered through hedges and over ditches, and
tired of rambling through the fields, away we
started for "Carrig Glen," entering it about one
mile from the Blackwater river, which runs
through the County of Cork. High cliffs of white60

A TRIP TO IRELAND.

limestone here rise from fifty to 100 feet high,
with here and there broken and intervening spaces.
Huge bowlders projecting from the side of the
cliff present a rare chance for the adventurous to
try their agility in climbing. Besides giving a
prospective view, it would be quite romantic to be
perched up on one of those projecting shelves
seventy or eighty feet high. I had no one to
encourage me,;or I might have attempted it.

Upon the west side the land is more sloping and
the side hills are covered with pine trees and
larches. Through the glen there runs a small
stream fed by numerous springs.

The only one of note I will make mention of is
"Tubber Brogue," or "Well of the Shoe," so
named from its resemblance in shape to a shoe.
Toward sunsst you can see hundreds of rabbits
skipping through this glen. Here I will mention
a little incident of how I once got a rabbit for
supper. The water in Tubber Brogue spring was
.so clear and pure, I often sent for a tin-pail of it
to drink. One evening the hired boy had gone to
the glen for the pail of water. Thinking he was
gone longer than usual, I went out to look if I
could see him. He was coming with the pail of
water in one hand and a fine rabbit in the other,
and a great dent in one side of the bucket. " Why,
Bob! I exclaimed, "what happened to the
bucket?" "Well, mum," says he, "as I was
coming along with the wather, the rabbit runTHE MORNING RAMBLE.

61

right forninst me, and having nothing elst, I
throwed the bucket afther him, and that was
what kept me so long. I had to go back for
another bucket of wather." " Well, you got the
rabbit all right?" "Yes, mum, I wounded him
and thin chased him down." As the poor fellow
had been to such trouble getting the rabbit for
me especially, I cooked it myself to please him,
and invited him in to partake of some of it.

Having traced the glen for some distance, we
are nearing the great railroad bridge. Here the
glen is about 300 feet wide and is spanned by a
magnificent bridge of stone structure. The train
passes over this bridge four times a day, going
and coming. The bridge is eighty feet high, of
six spans, and .fifty "feet to the span. The abut-
ments are built of limestone, eight by sixteen feet.
Hanging down from the arches are beautiful stal-
actites formed by the dripping of the water, and
on the side of the piers it has formed crusts like
fish-scales, and where it has dripped in the deep-
grass at the bottom of the piers, it has become
crusted in a variety of shapes resembling coral.
It made me nearly wild to see those beautiful
stalactites hanging so far beyond my reach.

How was I to get some of them ? That was
the question. I would look up and then down.
I proposed throwing at them, so we clambered
up the side of the glen uiltil we reached a higher
position, then we commenced our bombarding62

A T.RIP TO IRELAND.

with all the sticks wfc could find of the size we
could throw. Such shouting when one of the
party would strike one, and the echo reverber-
ated through the glen, and you would almost
think you were being mocked by some one if you
did not know the sound of your own voice. We
succeeded in knocking some down, then we had
to clamber down from our prominence to the bot-
tom of the glen. We found some pretty nice
specimens but mostly all had become mutilated
by the great distance they had fallen.

This is also called the fairy glen. Some of the
people near there will tell you there have been
fairies seen in it; they are very small creatures
on the wing, and wearing a little red cap on their
heads, and always carrying a bag of gold, and if
you can catch them you will get some of it, but if
they perceive you are after them, they begin to
halloa " look behind you, look behind you" and the
peasant is sure to turn his head to see what is
behind him, and thus the witty little elf gets
away with his bag of gold. While we were
engaged picking up the nicest of our specimens,and
thinking how we would like to see one of those
little fairy elfs, the train for Fermoy came lum-
bering along. There was no quaking of that
bridge; it is a perfect model of architecture that
will last for ages. Refreshing ourselves at
"Tubber Brogue'5 spring, we started for home,
frying delighted with our morning's ramble.CHAPTER XII.

FOURTH Of1 JULY IK IRELAND.

"We will wander away
By ourselves to-day,

Where the dews on the woodland glitter,

And the rocks rise so tall and grand
Where the trout from the golden river
Bounds to the bright sunshine."

HE Fourth of July came; our glorious day of

jubilee. "We had no flag to hoist, 110 sound of
cannon came booming on our ears, nor patriotic
songs to cheer us. We felt rather lonesome as
our minds carried us away back across the wide
ocean to the home of my nativity; there we could
see millions of freemen rejoicing in the perpetua-
tion of our glorious independence, and we pictured
in our minds the crowds that would be gathered
together on that memorable day when the -de-
claration of independence was being read and the
patriotic songs were swelling the air, the cannon
booming, the firecrackers hissing and popping
where they were picnicing and feasting with ice
cream and lemonade to the heart's desire.

But we were far from those scenes of pleasure
and we must make the best of it. So we concluded
to spend that day off by ourselves, that we might
enjoy talking over those pleasant times and try
to feel that it was really the fourth of July, and

6364

A TBIP TO IRELAND.

so we took our basket of lunch and went picnicing
all by ourselves. As we wandered dow;n by the
Blackwater river we could almost imagine we
heard a cannon; but no, all was silent except the
chirping of the birds in the trees above us.*

In the course we took we had to cross one of
those pretty Irish stiles. I could not resist sitting
down and resting on it awhile, pondering in my
mind over those plaintive verses, " The Lament of
the Irish Emigrant."

Again we start on, crossing a little rustic bridge,
made something like a ladder, with two side
pieces with strips across, and you had to step from
strip to strip. It spanned a small stream and was
made for a convenient crossing for pedestrians.
We crept along a narrow path under a tremen-
dous large rock which projects from a cliff over~
the bank of the Blackwater river. This cliff is
called the " D." After we got from under that
large rock the path widened. There were large
beech trees along the bank of the river here, and
every other one had been sawed off, making them
as level as a table. So we found a grand place to
spread our lunch. The ground here was a beau-
tiful slope to the river. We enjoyed for a while
watching some water hens with their little chicks
swimming from shore to shore like ducks; then
we gathered some flowers and made a bouquet;
then arranged our table. But, after all, it seemed
rather lonesome for a Fourth of July dinner. WeFOURTH OF JULY m IRELAND.

65

thought we would enjoy it much better if we had
some company. Soon we espied the old " Care-
taker"'and his shepherd dog, and we were de.
lighted as they approached to enjoy our hospi-
tality. The "care-taker" is one who sees to the
care of the grounds, and -watches like a sentinel
against intruders. We were on Mr. Franks' do-
main, and entertained no fears of being driven
off, as he was very agreeable and quite friendly
with us.

We had a very enjoyable time conversing with
the old care-taker, and were very much interested
with his historical account of the surroundings.
After dinner he showed us the ascent up the hill,
that we might go out upon the u D," the project-
ing rock we had passed under. So we started to
find other scenes of attraction, and as we gained
the summit, what a sight to feast our eyes upon!
What a vision of beauty met our gaze, this garden
of the " D "! There upon that projecting cliff
■v^as the most lovely garden of flowers you could
wish to see. The side upon which you enter is
straight across, and has a rustic fence built in a
very artistic style with two small wicket gates.
The outer edge is round, shaping it like the letter
" D," hence the name. It has a rock wall built
around it, turreted like the towers they build.
We passed in by one of the gates, and after view-
ing the garden, passed out by the other.

The garden is laid out in walks between the66

A TRIP TO IRELAND.

flower beds, and one circling around the outer wall.

The flower beds are made in a variety of shapes,
the center one being very large, and was laid out
in hearts, diamonds and spades; and in the center
grows the most lovely holly I ever saw^the leaves
being a bright green with a white edge. Looking
over the outer wall the scene which lay below us
was a picture that would certainly charm an artist.
Here the beautiful Black water river is coursing on
its way; beyond lies a lovely vale, and you almost
think you can hear the tinkle of the cow bells as
they go along munching the sweet grass. And
away in the distance you can see the outlines of
the Rahan Mountains.

Leaving this attractive place we wended our
way to Carrig Castle, a short distance from the
garden of the D. It is like all those old castles,
a great curiosity to people of this age. It is built
round, with long, narrow windows in each story.
They are not more than three inches wide on the
outside, but are three feet or more on the inside.,
There were a number of square niches in the wall,
built like cupboards, seemingly for the purpose of
stowing away provisions and ammunition. There
are port-holes all through it, even through the
floors of the upper story, one being very near the
door. The enemy forcing the door open would be
in great peril, as they could be shot as fast as
they entered. These port-holes are as smooth as
glass and h&Ye tbe appsar&HQ© of beingFOURTH OF JULY IN IRELAND.

67

We went up the winding stone stairway till we
reached the top. In the center there is a high
place built up where they had their guns placed;
it is so constructed they could fire from any point.
Some say they had no artillery in those days; as
to that we have to take the stories as they^ are
handed down to us; and to all appearance it
showed signs of a terrible conflict at some age. It
is wonderful how these old buildings stand for ages
upon ages. The mason work looks altogether
different from anything of the present age, and it
would seem that the masons of to-day have not
attained the skill that is evidenced in the old ruins
to be met with here and in other parts of Ireland.
And with admiration we gazed on that old castle
that had withstood the storms of ages.

" Like some old chief robust and proud,

Tho' years have made him aged and hoary,

Stands still erect with crest unbound
Musing on scenes of former glory.

Thou lookest out o'er field and cot

O'er glorious scenes qf sylvan beauty
Where true hearts are forgetful not
Of the patriot's noble duty."

Like all those old castles and ruins we meet
with, it must have some legend or story belonging
to it, or it would lack something to make it famous
in Ireland, for the peasantry can tell you a story
from every old nook and cliff in Ireland.

Back to a hundred years ago and even as latt68

A TRIP TO IRELAND.

as fifty years back those grounds and castles were
kept guarded more strictly than they are now.
There would be five " care-takers " to where there
is one now, and the peasantry did not dare to
intrude on any of those domains under penalty of
the law. But some were very venturesome and
daring. At the time my story begins, as it was
told to me, there was a party of young men and
women determined to make a visit to this old
castle; they were desirous of exploring it to see
what it contained.

They got around the sentinels somehow, but as
they were in the height of their exploration some
of the party observed the u care-takers " coming
and gave the alarm, when they all started on the
stampede and managed to evade the guards, but
one young lady. Not getting out of the castle in
time she made a flight up the stairs, her pursuers
following after her; she got out on top and rather
than be taken prisoner she ran the risk of her
life and made a leap, and it is said the wind
gathered in her clothing and buoyed her up so she
came down to the ground in safety, and before
her pursuers got down she was gone. I thought
as I looked down from the top of that old castle
that that was truly a miraculous escape. But
such events are nothing to record in that country.
We traversed a little farther when we came to
the ruins of an old church. It had been a tre-
mendous building, but time had waged war onFOURTH OF JULY IN IRELAND.

69

it and there were only portions of the wall stand-
ing to mark its history. It is supposed to have
been built by the ancient fire-worshipers, as there
is no christian title handed down with its history.
After we had gone through and around this old
place we started to wend our way homeward;
and as we traversed along our way we came to
the " Lodge " belonging to the Franks' estate, over
which we had been rambling all day long. The
Lodge is the residence of the person who keeps
watch at the main entrance of the premises. "We
stopped to view some pretty flowers that were
growing inside the enclosure, when a little bare-
footed girl came out of the gate and handed us
a bunch of flowers. We gave her a "twopence
and went on. Soon we heard the patting of little
feet behind us, and here she was with a fine rose.
We rewarded her again, and she darted off like a
deer; soon we were startled by her approaching
with another nosegay. Thus she followed us for a
quarter of a mile or more. I took her little
bunch of flowers and gave her a penny, telling
her we had no more for her.

You can travel over very little of Ireland with-
out meeting poor, half-clad children who follow
after you just so, or else sing some little ditty,
trusting you will throw them a penny, and it is
most likely you will, not only to relieve them but
yourself of the irksomeness of being so annoyed.
So you will see on the one hand the deer park,to	A TRIP TO IRELAND.

the game preserve and the castle with all the
luxury that wealth can bring; and on the other
the hovel and the street beggar. Hence there is
a feeling of sadness mingled with all the surround-
ing beauty, that it is for a few, and nothing for
the many who claim it as the land of their birth.

We at last reached home feeling well repaid for
our day's ramble and forgetting all about the
Fourth of July; our thoughts being so much
occupied with the strange, the beautiful and
curious things we hae seen.

CHAPTER XIII.

OUR TRIP TO RAH AN MOUNTAIN.

On the top of an Irish Mountain

The wind has plenty to say,

The wild mists run to catch the sun,

Who hides in fright away.

Green and soft is the moss aloft,

Though nobody saw its birth,

But hurrah for the mountain heather,
The sweetest thing on earth.

ELL, my readers, I do not suppose that all

of you have had the opportunity of visit-
ing mountains, or rather the pleasure of trying
your muscles, as with staff in hand 3^ou start up in
a zigzag trail the side of a mountain. But let me
tell you, those who have never experienced it, it
is rare fun, if you are inclined to make fun out of
it. I had walked considerable since my arrival in
Ireland, preferring it in making short trips, to the
" jaunting car," and really I have walked miles
without realizing the distance and at times would
almost forget there was such a thing as getting
tired, my mind being so continually absorbed
with the sights of this interesting u Old Country."
It looked very old to me, and if the Lord had
been six thousand years creating this world in-
stead of six days, I should conclude that He began
with Ireland first, beyond a doubt.

71A TRIP TO IRELAND.

Standing in the door of the old farm-house,
looking away southward over fields and valleys,
and across the Black water river, I beheld in the
distance a range of beautiful mountains towering
skyward. How grand they looked, to me, having
never seen such a picture in reality before. Noth-
ing indeed nearer to it than the artist's skill on
canvas.

"O, what were the world without mountains—

That glory God has given ?

Grand and fair they pierce the air,

And stand up close to Heaven."

How I longed to get close to those mountains
that I might better satisfy my curiosity as to their
magnitude. I inquired how far it was to those
mountains? The answer was: "Five miles to
the nearest." I was astonished for I had not sup-
posed the distance to be more than two miles, the
atmosphere being so clear one can see for a long
distance. Well, I said we must make a trip to
those mountains. This observation created a good
deal of merriment for our friends, the idea of my
trying to ascend Rahan Mountain, the one nearest
to view, was certainly erroneous. I had puzzled
them somewhat already with my wonderful feats
as a pedestrian, but this was certainly the last
thing I would try. But I was not to be laughed
out of it. So I set the day for our trip to the
mountain, and early that morning the old bob-
tailed horse was hitched to the little car to help
us along in our journey, for I always managed toOUR TRIP TO RAHAN MOUNTAIN.

73

slip off and walk awhile to gather flowers and
moss, and it was not my intention this morning
to lose this delightful part of the journey by rid-
ing all the distance. The ascent being the easiest
on the south side we took our journey around by
Hillavonlan, a village two miles south of where
we were sojourning. I will give some little des-
cription of the scenery and objects that attracted
us as we pursued our journey. We passed several
thatched-roofed cottages looking neat and tidy#
The fences along the road were all stone walls.
They looked beautiful, being built of white lime-
stone, and as smooth in appearance as the side of
a house, being laid up so evenly. Then when you
come to a gate, instead of wooden posts at the
sides as in our country, there are two stone
"piers," as they are called, one at each side of the
gate, they are simply solid stone posts chiseled out
smoothly. They are cut square, and on top there
are caps with moulding, all cut out of stone. The
gates were iron and very artistically wrought." I
think I never saw anything present a nicer
appearance than did the fences and gates in
many parts of Ireland. The rains for many years
running down the sides of these old walls have in
many places crystallized their surface. The ivy
creeping up their side and running along the top,
and tiny little flowers with bright red and varie-
gated leaves, with beautiful moss interspersed, all
growing apparently without sufficient earth tou

A TRIP TO IRELAND.

nourish them, make them a picture of beauty.
And this is the appearance of a rock fence in Ire-
land.

We now come to "Kilcanway well," a large
spring gushing out from a ledge of rocks. People
for miles around haul water from this well, as it
is called there, by means of a donkey hitched to a
farm car. It was never known to be affected by
drought. A stream from it flows into the Black-
water river.

"We all refreshed ourselves at Kilcanway; we
drank of the refreshing beverage and proceeded
on our journey. The road gradually rises, and
there are strips of timber for a distance, composed
mostly of larch, with now and then a beech tree.
There being no underbrush, it is charming to look
through and see level tracts of land beyond
covered with splendid grass. These are called
" inches " in Ireland ; we would call them meadows
in this country.

Now the road turns, and we go

4' Down where the deep Blackwater
Glides 011 to its ocean rest,

And the hills with their green-clad bosoms
Roll up from the river's breast."

As we near Killavulan there are wide fields
stretching to the northward and high towering
cliffs on the south side of the river.

These cliffs present a grand appearance by the
many deep channels, archways and caverns worn
in their bases by the washing of the river.OUR TRIP TO RAHAN MOUNTAIN.

*5

There is a passage way leading through one of
these cliffs into Killavulan from the river. You
can go in on the Killavulan side and by a flight
of steps go down through to the river's edge, and
take your skiff, which is moored at the edge of the
river, or if you have just rowed up in your skiff,
you can fasten it, go up and out by the same
passage without being observed. On the left, as
you pass into Killavulan stands " Barry's Castle."
This castle is built round ; upon the east wing is a
tower between forty and fifty feet high. These
towers seem to have been an indispensable thing
in architectural design among the ancients in their
structure of both castles, churches and residences.
The walls of this building are only partially
covered with their natural mantel of ivy, as there
are beautiful trellises of roses interspersed. It
stands on a lovely prominence, a little north of
the Black water river, and is surrounded by the
choicest of flowers and picturesque hedges. It
being the family residence of Mr. Barry, it is kept
in grand style. A little east of this palatial home
is an old burying place called Monamana. Inside
of the enclosure stands an old Protestant church.
This is a very ancient burial ground, and both
Catholics and Protestants are buried here. We
now cross a large stone bridge which spans the
river here and enter the nice little village of
Killavulan. We pass along through without
stopping, as we are intent on reaching Rahan76

A TRIP TO IRELAND.

Mountain. Proceeding two miles south we come
to the u Brown Bridge," so called from the fact
that it is built of brown rock which seems to be
very uncommon in the mason work of that coun-
try. It is built over a stream called the Ross,
which flows into the Black water river. We met
a number of women and children coming from the
mountains with baskets of small black looking
berries which they called hartz; we call them
whortle berries in America. They are taking them
into the village to sell.

Now the mountains tower above us in all their
majestic loftiness; but what a different appear-
ance they presented to us as we neared them?
Instead of the nice soft verdure I had supposed
them to be covered with, they were very rough
and brushy. I almost felt like backing out of
trying the ascent, but that would never do now,
or the valor I had anticipated on winning would
be forever gone, and I would have to return in
humiliation; not I, I must ascend that mountain,
even if it did not look so charming as at five miles
distant. So we tethered the old horse out to
browse on the heather and brush which grew on
the mountain side, and we began our ascent. It
was a difficult task, and we were obliged to rest
many times; but we found plenty of berries
which were very refreshing with our lunch. The
mountain was covered with heather and berry
bushes. I felt I was being closely observed byOUR TRIP TO RAHAN MOUNTAIN.	77

most of the party, they believing that I would
give out before we reached the top, and not wish-
ing to. add to their amusement by my discomfi-
ture I kept up my spirits and toiled on with a
vengeance, determined thaxt I would get to the
top if it did not reach up to the moon. At last,
after much fatigue, we were rewarded for our
perseverance; for here we stood in breathless
awe,

41 On the top of an Irish mountain,

With the heather as fresh as May,

Everywhere 'tis shining fair
In an innocent, careless way."

Yes, at last, we were away up on top of Rahan
mountain, looking over five counties: Cork lying
around us, Waterford to the east, Tipperary and
Limerick to the north and Kerry to the west.

Fermoy,Glanworth, Mitcheltown, Kildory,Kan-
turk, Killavulan, Mallow and several other towns
were in view. With the aid of our field glass we
got a grand view of the surrounding country. But
the beauty of the view seemingly lay just below
us in Carrig, with its lovely park dotted with
trees and old Carrig castle, looking not much
larger than an ant hill to the naked eye. Upons
the top of this mountain is a large square tower,
called " Russell's Tower." It is built of rock and
is twenty feet square and eighteen feet high.
Just what it was built for I did not learn. On
the top of this tower is a mound of rocks and78

A TRIP TO IRELAND.

earth with a walk around it. I thought it might
be a grave. Some of our party proposed to go to
the top of Russel's Tower; I was satisfied without
indulging my ambition to get any higher up in
the world; the rest might go higher if they
wished.

After taking a good view of the surrounding
country, for we knew we should never again see
it from such a prominence, we prepared to make
our descent, which was much easier than going up.
We were soon at the bottom, fully realizing the
fact that Ireland is a land of wonderful beauty
and grand scenery, and no matter which way you
may travel, something pleasing greets the eye
and time passes without becoming monotonous.
Hitching up, we were soon on our homeward
journey, laden with a few mementos of our trip
to Rahan mountain. We arrived safely, very
tired in body, but fresh in mind and satisfied with
our trip.

CHAPTER XIV.

FERMOY.

" There is a freshness in the air,

A brightness in the sky,

As if a new-born sun were there,

Just seraph throned on high;

And birds and flowers and mountain streams
Rejoicing in their infant beams."

O-DAY we have made up our mind to take a

trip to Fermoy. It is one of those bright
attractive days when all nature seems imbued
with loveliness and everything looks enchanting
to the eye, and one becomes restless indoors. So,
taking the little jaunting car, we soon arrive at
Bally griffin station, a distance of two miles from
where our friends live. Here we took the train
for Fermoy, and, as usual, we found the scenery
very attractive and interesting; everything was
beaming with loveliness. The trains here, as a
general thing, are not run with such speed as in
America, and consequently it affords a much bet-
ter chance of viewing the country

Between Bally griffin and Fermoy there is a
station called Ballyhooly. It is a small village
situated in a beautiful and romantic place within
five miles of Fermoy. In leaving Ballyhooly the
lovely valley of the Funcheon came in view.
This place is remarkable in history and also pos-
©terming mmwy*80

A TRIP TO IRELAND.

The Funcheon is a nice river running though
Glanworth and west of the Rilworth mountains,
flowing into the Black water river below Fer-
moy. Glanworth is noted for the ruins of an old
abbey founded in the year 1227. Near this
abbey, on the verge of the river Funcheon, is a
fine spring gushing out of a limestone rock, and
is dedicated to St, Dominick. There is also the
remains of an old castle built of very massive
stone. Under this castle are huge arched vaults;
some are in very fair condition yet. One partic-
ular thing that I took notice of was that the
depots were all built upon high ground in Ireland,
and it gave them a fine appearance, besides being
a source of enjoyment to the traveller, as you
could look over the country to some extent.

Upon arriving at Fermoy we were somewhat
surprised, or at least myself, on finding ourselves
in the midst of a British barracks situated on a
hill overlooking the city on the north side. This
is the headquarters of the army in Munster.
These barracks are built in squares and the
houses are all connected; the squares are large
enough for several regiments to manoeuver in at
the same time and are macadamized and level as
a table. Leaving this place there is a graded
descent down to the town, which is mostly built
on the south side of the Blackwater river. We
stopped to take a view while standing on the
bridge. It presented a delightful picture that
warm July day.Meeting of the Waters—Killarney.FERMOY.

81

Along the bank of the river for quite a distance
back it is very level, and nature seems to have
done her part in designing this beautiful place
for a park. There are rows of beech trees which
provide ample shade, and the purling river
singing on its way vgives it a delicious coolness,
There are also lovely walks and carriage roads
with plenty of seats interspersed here and there
to rest upon. There were quite a number of
people enjoying this pleasant resort in various
ways; some were riding, some were walking, some
were reclining on the bank of the river, while 1
others were resting on the seats. Many were
engaged in reading, and I felt like exclaiming,
can this be Ireland, the land of so much distress,
rather does it not seem to be the land of luxury ?
But alas! every country has its woes as well as
its comforts.

Passing over the bridge we soon enter the city;
we came first to what is called the "Square" of
Fermoy. Upon the right stands the Eoyal Hotel
and Munster Bank, both are fine works of archi-
tecture. It was while we were in Ireland that
the Munster Bank failed, causing a terrible panic.
Hundreds of people had all their savings deposited
in that bank, and when the news spread they
went rushing wildly to the bank, crying madly for
their money, but the bank was closed, "no admit-
tance !" it was a terrible ordeal. One man in his
frenzy jumped into the river and was drowned
before the policeman could rescue him.82

A TRIP TO IRELAND.

The place numbers some eight or ten thousand
inhabitants; it presents a very fine appearance,
and is one of considerable commercial importance.
The streets are wide and kept scrupulously clean,
which was a feature of all the towns we visited
while in Ireland. After viewing the principal
part of the city we were directed to the convent
grounds, which are situated on a high eminence
of ground on the south side overlooking the city.
They are enclosed with a high wall. When we
arrived ait the gate, to our delight we met a very
brisk little old woman whose business it was to
conduct strangers in and show them through the
grounds, and to point out various places of interest
and attraction. She was somewhat lame from
rheumatism, but it did not seem to interfere with
her briskness in getting around. She also carried
the mail for the convent, did shopping, and, in
short, made herself generally useful, and if she
could not talk, then we are 110 judge of that art.
We followed this old lady from the gate up a
flight of steps till we reached the convent grounds.
What a vision of splendor we here met. This,
she said, is called the "Presentation." Here was
the most beautiful statuary representing the
presentation of our blessed Saviour in the temple
in the midst of a lovely flower garden, and the
chapel of the presentation was a beautiful piece of
architecture. We traversed along the beautiful
walks admiring the statuary and lovely flowersFERMOY.

83

and foliage surrounding them, till we reached the
convent.

This is called Lorretta, we were informed.
Our guide rang the bell which was soon answered
by one of the sisters appearing at the door, when
we were introduced as visitors from America.
She then disappeared, leaving us with the good
sister.

We were welcomed by the sister and cordially
invited in, and after conversing awhile, we were
shown through the many departments and were
also shown many beautiful works of art done by
the sisters.

One ornamental piece of work belonging to the
convent attraced our notice as wre approached the
building. It was its large windows, which were
artistically decorated in frost work. The panes
of glass were beautifully frosted, there being left
in the center from top to bottom, the representa-
tion of an ivy vine. The clear glass forming the
vine and leaves.

It was certainly a very artistic piece of work,
and was executed by one of the sisters
belonging to the convent. Lastly we were shown
into the chapel. A pale lamp burns steadly before
the Blessed Sacrament of the Altar, shedding its
rays of light, to remind eq,ch soul which there
presents itself, of the bright light of faith which
should reign in our hearts. Prayers from the
lips of youth, blessed beyond the reach of a.84

A TRIP TO IRELAND.

doubt by faith, ascend to the throne of the Most
High God, and the slow, measured steps of the
children as they leave this place of prayer, show
with what reverence they regard the sacred spot.
On being conducted through the different school
rooms, a pleasant impression is made upon the
visitors through the politeness and good manners
of the children, showing their religious training
and school discipline is complete in the way of
bringing them up, intellectually and good man-
neredly. The dormitories were exceedingly
clean, airy and comfortable, and we could not
help thinking that many of the children were
better cared for than they would be if left to the
care of their parents under their oppressed con-
dition. We had a very enjoyable visit with the
kind sister, giving her a small contribution to
help support the poor under their care, (which is
done mostly by contributions) and thanking her
for her kind hospitality we bade adieu to the
convent Lorretta.

We had hardly turned away from the convent
when our guide, the brisk little woman before
mentioned, was at our side ready to show us the
rest of the grounds and buildings. We first pro-
ceeded to the college. It is a very large fine build-
ing and its surroundings very tasteful, though not
as beautiful as Louretta. After viewing this
place, our guide next took us into the Cathedral;
the altar in this magnificent building is built ofFEKMOY.

85

pure white marble, reaching from the floor nearly
to the ceiling; it was the handsomest altar we
had seen in our travels.* The stations of the cross
were real carved representations being carved out
of marble and set in deep frames or cases. They
looked life-like and impressed one with feelings
of awe. After leaving the Cathedral, the old
lady conducted us down into the city by another
way from the one we took going up, and calling
our attention to many objects of interest as we
passed along. And to hear her stories one would
suppose she was nearly a hundred years old, yet
she was lively as a lame cricket. We were
delighted to see her hop around so nimbly, we
slipped her a shilling to reward her for her
trouble, receiving the usual " God bless you, and
give you a safe voyage home." We had not long
to tarry before train time; so bidding her good-
bye, we were soon on our voyage home, much
delighted with our visit to Fermoy.



CHAPTER XV.

CASTLE KIVEN.

"O, how can'st thou renounce the boundless store

Of charms which Nature to her votary yields,
The warbling woodland, the resounding shore,
The pomp of groves, and garniture of fields?"

1IIAYE learned to look on nature as something
sublime; something direct from the hand of
God ; to elevate our thoughts to noble purposes;
for nature it would seem' is the language of the
sense; the guardian of the heart and soul, and
leads us on from joy to joy, when we reflect on
its sublimity. It is the anchor of the purest
thoughts to meditate on Him whose power is
marked from the lofty tree to the tiny dew-bent
flower that grows beneath our feet, and our mind
can be so impressed with the presence of the
Creator of all this loveliness we can see beauty in
everything; from the babbling brook at our feet to
the merry little songster that soars above the tree-
tops; and one that is a lover of the meadows and
woods, mountains and glens of this beautiful
green-clad earth, is never weary of forming pic-
tures of its sylvan beauty. All nature speaks out
in language to the soul as you gaze on yonder
towering cliff, or look away down through that
beautiful glen with its thick carpet of most deli-
cious greensward, its purling stream giving music

86CASTLE KIVEN.

87

to the ear; lined on each side with benches and
eopsewood of various descriptions, the rays of the
sun breaking through the foliage here and there
imparting a beautiful color to the mossy trunks of
the trees, and fatigue vanishes and we forget all
our discomforts, and we drop down in just such
an enchanted place as Carrig Glen, or many others
for which Ireland is so renowned. Yes, it is a
country that calls you forth; you feel that a day
spent indoors was as though lost. The delightful
climate and purity of air all lend their charming
forces to assimilate with the beauty of Nature and
draw you forth to enjoy and extol with praises.
Many times as I strolled along the side of the
beautiful Carrig Glen, I have had to brush the
hanging moss from my face, that hangs like cob-
webs from the limbs of the trees, and gathered
the cones from the pine trees which are literally
covered and embedded with moss ; and one would
see many of the large beech trees with their
trunks so covered with moss and ivy one could not
see the bark. It presented a strange and odd
appearance to one not used to seeing such a
growth of moss and ivy.

The beech trees grow in great abundance in Ire-
land. In places you will see rows of them, but
many are with their trunks so perfectly covered
with ivy you would wonder what kind of a tree in
was. Eeally the ivy grows to a wonderful size it
Ireland. ¥e remember one that was as large as
a young sapling.88

A TRIP TO IRELAND.

It would scarcely be right to expend all my
praises on the beauties of Ireland without men-
tioning her little songsters. There are a great
variety of birds which abound inlreland, but the
ones that seem to be the greatest favorites with
the Irish people, or, at least, the ones you will see
them have in cages, are the brown thrush and the
native blackbird. You will often see them caged
together. They are both highly appreciated for
their singing qualities. Then there is the robin
and the wren, one held almost in veneration, while
the other is hunted down as an enemy. Therobin?
the most dearly loved bird of all, it is said, was
near our Savior when he was crucified, and in try-
ing to pluck the thorns from his brow got covered
in blood; hence it has always had a red breast^
It is held in such veneration by the people in Ire-
land it can be seen perched in their windows and
at their doors, seemingly confident of their affec-
tion and love. It lives mostly beneath the ivy on
old ruins and castle walls. While there is undoubt-
edly an almost universal reverence for the robin?
the poor little wren is despised and held in hatred
as an enemy to the country. Tradition relates
"that in olden times, when the Irish and Danes
were at war, one day there were a number of
Danes stopped to rest and eat their dinner, using
their drums as tables. After finishing their dinners
they lay down and went to sleep. An Irishman
discovering them asleep, sought to kill them, andCASTLE KIVEN.

89

went in pursuit of help, and while he was away
the wrens came and commenced picking up the
crumbs. It made such a noise on the drums it
woke the Danes up before the Irish could carry
out their plans." Thus the wrens have always
been considered an enemy to the cause of Irish
liberty. The day after Christmas (St. Steven's
day) is the time the wren is hunted most. There
will be crowds of youngsters that day beating the
hedges for the poor little wrens, and when they
kill one they commence to sing:

" The wren, the wrep, the king of all birds;
St, Stevens day she was caught in the furze •

Fro.m bush to bush, and tree to tree,

On Carriggoon rock she broke her knee."

This verse has reference to a fable which is re-
lated of the wren, which gives it a luminous, place
in literature. It runs thus: u The birds, from the
largest to the smallest, that could fly had all
assembled and agreed that the one that flew the
highest should be called the king of all birds.
They all started. The eagle soared on up, up,
above all the rest, and was ready to proclaim him-
self king of all birds, when out flew the wren,
having tucked itself in the feathers of the eagle,
and soaring above the eagle was proclaimed the
king of all birds."

But of all the wild birds in Ireland that struck
my admiration most was the dear little Irish sky-
lark. It seems to be the happiest bird of all the90

A TRIP TO IRELAND.

feathered birds, ever pouring forth its sweet melo-
dies; his life seems all sensibility and enjoyment—
all song and sunshine.

It is a pleasure to watch him on a bright sum-
mer day, and to notice his wonderful motion
ascending or descending and continually singing
as he rises and sinks with the breeze. I have often
thought it was singing praise to the Creator.
James Hogg wrote some beautiful verses on the
merits of this lovely little warbler. I quote two
stanzas:

4' Wild is thy lay and loud,

Far in the downy cloud ;

Love gives it energy, love gives it birth.

Where on thy dewy wing ?

Where art thou journeying ?

Thy lay is in heaven, thy love on earth.

O'er fell and fountain sheen,

O'er moor and mountain green.

O'er the red streamer that heralds the day,

Over the cloudlet dim,

Over the rainbow's rim,

Musical cherub, soar singing away."

We would often hear his wonderful little voice
for some time before we could catch him with
our eye, he is so small and so quick in movement,
and he seems so overcome with ecstacy at his own
music, he hardly knows whether to go sky ward or
descend to the earth. His melodies would often
attract us, and we would ramble out in pursuit of
the music. It was an occasion of this kind that
brought forth the theme of this chapter.CASTLE KIVlN.

91

We were attracted out by the music of the
little skylark, and soon made up our mind to take
a ramble as far as we could walk; and so we
started for Castle Kiven. "We took the road east
for a short distance, then north, viewing many
fields of grain, potatoes, turnips, etc. We had
traversed nearly a mile when we came to the lovely
little "Lodge" of Castle Kiven. As we ap-
proached, the lodge-keeper came out and asked us
if we desired to visit the castle. We answered,
it would be a pleasure to us; whereupon he
unlocked the iron gate and admitted us. The
gate was then swung to and fastened to its mass-
ive stone piers. We passed down the walk leading
to the castle, which is a large and magnificently
built mansion. We went up the granite steps,'
which are built in a half-circle, and rang the bell.
It was answered by a woman who oversees the
servants and attends to the reception of visitors.
We are invited in and shown the different apart-
ments, from the first floor to the top. The rooms
were all artistically furnished and in a style dif-
fering greatly from our American.

We were first shown through the parlor, draw-
ing room, dining room, ball room and silver
closet, all on the first floor. In the ball room
hung a crystal chandelier, of magnificent beauty,
filled with wax tapers. There was no furniture
in this room but the stand for the musicians; it
had a finely polished floor and snow-white walls.92

A TRIP TO IRELAND.

In all the rest of the rooms were fire-places, and
the mantel shelves contained many rich pieces of
bric-a-brac; but what consisted of the most beauty
were the curiously wrought candlesticks, which
were conspicuous in every room, both above and
below, and no two pair alike.

I did not see a lamp in any part of the castle.
We followed our guide up the broad polished
stairs to the second floor. Here we entered
another parlor furnished in a different color from
the one below, but just as elaborate. I will here
.make special mention of one room on this floor.
As we entered it we were told it was the " court-
ing room ;" we took a good survey of that room,
wondering in our mind how many blissful court-
ships had been consummated in the midst of that
elegance, and ended in a happy union. There
were many beautiful pieces of furniture in it,
but one attracted our attention more than all the
rest, not only for its elegance, but for its curious
construction. It stood in the center of the room,
" This is the courting chair," said the old lady.
It struck our admiration for we had seen no such
special chair for that wonderful epoch in human
events. We sat down in it for a while to see
how it would seem to sit in a real courting chair.
And I think who ever invented that chair knew
what he was about.

There were four seats with cushioned arms be-
tween each seat, and it was so constructed thatCASTLE KIVEN.

98

each two seats were in a half-circle, and the high
backs were all brought together, making the chair
round. It would- be hard to excel either in beauty
or elegance. We next visited the " Bridal Cham-
ber," it was also furnished with elegance.

On one side was the master's dressing room, on
the other side was the mistress' dressing room.
The wardrobes belonging to these rooms were
opened for our view, disclosing the richest wear-
ing apparel and such a variety of toilets for the
different occasions for which they were required.
We were led from room to room, through little
boudoirs all separated by rich portieres, and
throughout the whole castle there was nothing
but the air of extravagance, more noticeable on
account of its being in the midst of those who
had to toil to support it in such luxury. The last
view of the interior was taken in passing out
through the main hall. There hung all the
equipments for the hunt and the chase, saddles,
bridles, whips, horns, spurs, caps and coats. The
boots we had noticed in the warbrobe; every-
thing accorded with the rest of the castle in ele-
gance.

Before leaving the castle, the servant girls
gave us a slight exhibition of the chase; they
were just brimful of mischief and while we were
rambling through the castle they partially
donned themselves for the chase by putting
on coats, caps, riding whips and gloves, and tak-94:

TRIP TO IRELAND.

ing the horns, they went through different rooms
sounding the horns as in the chase, and when we
came down to the first floor again,we were startled
by the sound; then they started and ran through
and through the halls blowing those old horns
till there was a perfect confusion of noise. It
created quite a merriment for a while, as the old
lady was screeching for them to stop, but they
never heeded her until they were ready to give
up the chase, and then such laughing. We
thanked them heartily for such an exhibition, if
it was on foot and on a sm^ll scale too, as it gave
us an opportunity of hearing the hunters horn as
used in the chase, and which we enjoyed very
much.

"We now proceeded to visit the grounds belong-
ing to this magnificent castle. We at once per-
ceive it is a marvel of beauty. Here we beheld
the handsomest climbing rose our eyes ever
feasted on; it grew up the side of the castle
seven or eight feet high and branched out to the
width of eight feet, and was literally covered
with roses three inches in diameter and very
double. They were shaded from yellow to a
very dark, almost a brown. Passing through
the walks we noticed a great variety of roses
of many shades. Soon the old lady presented
each of us with a large bouquet of roses of almost
every shade of color that belongs to the rose. The
moss rose grows to perfection in Ireland; youCASTLE KIVEN.	95

will find them in all the gardens where flowers are
cultivated to any extent. They do not seem to
prize it any higher than any other rose.

Perhaps it might not be amiss here to give the
reader a little fable of the origin of the moss rose.

The angel who takes care of the flowers slum-
bered on a spring day beneath the shade of a rose
bush ; when he awoke he said: " Most beautiful
of my children, I thank thee for thy refreshing
odor and cooling shade; could you now ask any
favor how willingly would I grant it."

"Adorn me then with a new charm," said the
spirit of the rose bush." So the angel adorned
the loveliest of flowers with simple moss. Sweetly
it stood there in its modest attire, the moss rose,
the most beautiful of its kind. Fable or not, it is
certainly the loveliest rose that grows. The old
lady plucked us a bunch of forget-me-nots, and gave
them as a token of remembrance of her; but I
thought it was not likely we would forget her
soon, as we were too much charmed with her rich
Irish tongue and witty sayings. The castle was
in full charge of the old lady then, as its owners
were spending the summer in Dublin. They had
left all that luxury and extravagance to a house
full of servants, while they were seeking higher
extravagance in the city. But the castle was always
open to visitors, and they were making prepara-
tion, so the old lady said, to entertain a great
many during Cahiramee fair time. She had enter-96

A TRIP TO IRELAND.

tamed us through the whole visit with brief stories
and sketches of the castle since her reign there,
and that was a goodly number of years. So it
is," using the old lady's language. Thanking her
for her kind hospitality, we bid adieu to Castle
Kiven and its beautiful surroundings, and thinking
if the wealth in Ireland was more equally dis-
tributed there would be less repinings and better
times for all.

It is hard to think of the misery of Ireland, a
country which, it seems, ought to be different; its
people so jovial and mirthful, so hospitable under
the keenest poverty, possessing such rare traits of
character that distinguishes them from any other
class by their fine wit and social temperament.
It is a country that would call thousands to visit
its beautiful clime, but the sad history of its dis-
tressed people fills one with a feeling that there
could not be much enjoyment found where so
much distress is abroad. But, nevertheless, it is
Ireland that is full of romance ; it is Ireland that
is full of legends and fairy stories, and if you want
wit, go to Ireland.

At Innisfallen, Lower Lake—Killarney.CHAPTER XYI.

THE OLD KIRK YARD.

" O come with me to the old Kirk yard ;

I well know the path through the soft green sward.

Friends slumber there we were wont to regard ;

We'll trace out their names in the old Kirk yard."

THE day following our visit to Castle Kiven
we went to visit " Cleanor," a very ancient
burial ground, where also some near and very
dear friends were laid away to rest, and we
wished to visit their graves before leaving Ire-
land. We took much the same route that we did
in our jaunt to the castle but traversed some far-
ther. This old burial ground is filled with monu-
ments and tombs, and there are names which
recall sacred memories to one of us; and lingering
among the tombs we ponder in our minds on the
difference in this place from the one we visited the
day before; one was radiant with beauty and
sunshine, full of joy and mirth ; the other, so des-
olate and gloomy. Yet such is the destiny of all
on earth; ".So flourishes and fades majestic man."

" Their minds once so active and gay,

Their lips which so merrily sung,
Now senseless and motionless lay,

And stiff is the clattering tongue."

Our visit to old Cleanor grave yard was cer-
tainly a great change in scenery from that of

9798

A TRIP TO IRELAND.

Castle Kiven, but what thoughts and reflections
one can have in such a place as this, passing
around reading the epitaphs on the tombs and
monuments.

" Here lie both the young and the old,

Confined in the coffin so small,

And the earth closes over them cold,

And the grave worm devours them all."

There is really something very affecting to
one's feelings as they wander through one of
those old barial places. It seems as though the
awful nature of the place presses down upon the
soul. We feel that we are surrounded by the
congregated dead, and in pensive meditation we
linger by the grave of those dear departed
friends. What memories associate themselves
around the tomb of loved ones, and bring back
their faded forms; we recall the sound of their
voices and hear the familiar laugh again; we
seem to see them as in times past, each well-
remembered face, how life-like they appear; and,
although it throws a passing gloom over us, and
spreads a sadness on our hearts, yet we cling to
those memories, lest in forgetfulness we lose the
visionary image of our loved ones. There is a
remembrance of the dead which brings echoes to
the living that we too are mortal, and must, like
those that are sleeping here, soon pass away.
And we turn even from the charms of the living,
and we pass from those scenes of splendor thatTHE OLD KIRK YARD.

99

dazzled the eye with their gorgeous beauty, to
this quiet resting-place of the dead, and with
sober reflection we meditate on the true end of
life so swiftly passing away, and with the poet
we are led to believe:

" This world is all a fleeting show,

For man's illusions given."

And as we noiselessly move around, the sough-
ing of the wind through the trees seems like the
whisperings from the tomb, that rise and float
away on the breeze. But if we have been im-
pressed here, we are soon brought to a fuller
realization of the end of man. We have traversed
through and through the old grave-yard, and ^iow
we come to an old church standing here in ruins ;
and as we pass around it, viewing those old crumb-
ling walls, we observe niches where are human
skulls laid in ro ws. Some were placed up in the
deep window-sill, and down by the side of the
wall were many more.

Pondering over these inanimate skulls, I recall
the words of Dr. W. M. Gray, so full of pathos:

'' This bony home that once contained
The mystic seat of mind and will,

And where through life the senses reigned,

Is now dismantled, cold and still.

Where, on the outposts, ear and eye

Stood guardian for it night and day,

There now are none to do or die
And slay the foes that on it prey.100

A TRIP TO IRELAND.

Where once were laughter, joy and mirth,

And princely guests in bright array—

Abandoned now, falls to the earth

The structure that by age was gray.

Though years were needed to complete
This book too grand for words to tell:

In but a moment, swift and fleet,

The labor of a lifetime fell.

Where daring schemes and plans were born

To make the world submissive bow,

Now all is ruined and forlorn,

With none to do its bidding now.

Its walls are crumbling back to dust,

And even its foundation razed,

Till in its strength not one will trust
That once in admiration gazed."

Mysterious cell, that held a soul, once active
and full of life, can aught be said, but you gained
from heaven all you wished, a friend. One is
almost overcome with feelings of awe as they are
led by curiosity to walk through one of these
burial places, over bones and skulls which lie
scattered around.

Their burial grounds are very limited in that
country, and therefore it becomes necessary to
open many graves.

What thoughts of death arise amid so many
memorials of the dead % And the wind reverber-
ating through the cracks and crevices of those old
crumbling walls, sounds something like a mourn-
ful dirge.

What strange emotions fill the mind ? If one
was the least inclined to visionary ideas theyTHE OLD KIRK YARD.

ioi

might easily be led to imagine these strange
noises as the moaning of departed spirits. And I
thought it was not so much to be wondered at that
so many of the people were led in fancy, from
childhood up to believe in ghosts, witches and
fairies, when such relics of the dead were so ex-
posed to view. Ugh! I do not know but that if
I had to pass old Cleanor grave yard on a moon-
light night, and saw those white skulls gazing at
me from the side of that old crumbling Wall and
everything presenting such a weird appearance, 1
might fancy that there were ghosts and that they
had all arose in single file and were peeping out
at me, and probably I might make great speed to
get past the old kirk yard.

I will leave this subject for one more agreeable.

As the day was very pleasant and not far spent,
we pursued our way some distance farther to see
a remarkable old knotty tree called " Crown
Hulla." This old tree holds its legend as most
everything in Ireland does. There is no history
of its age that we could learn. It stands alone,
not another tree near it; in the distance it looks
like a huge umbrella raised, on approaching, it
assumes quite another appearance. It resembles
an ash of stunted growth. About eight feet from
the ground it forks, and between the forks is a
living spring of water, always there since the tree
was known.

I must confess I never considered myself an ex-102	A TRIP TO IRELAND.

pert at climbing, but curiosity prompted me here
to make the attempt; for as the old saying is
"seeing is believing." The trunk of the tree is
very knotty and there being a rise of ground on
one side, 1 felt I should succeed. So with some
assistance I was soon high enough to see this lovely
little basin of water. There it was in all its crys-
tal perfection, nestled between the forks of the
tree. I diped my hand in and took up a small
sup which seemed cool and refreshing, whereupon
I then descended to the ground full of faith so far
as regarding the existence of that little spring.

Now as the story is told : "Once upon a time
there was a beautiful virgin, who to save her virtue
disfigured her countenance by plucking out one of
her eyes, which she burried here and planted a
little twig to mark the spot, and it grew to be a
tree with this remarkable spring in its forks."
From here we wended our way homeward, silently
thinking of Cleanor with its ancient ruins, and
relics of the dead lying around, and of the won-
derful tree, Crown Hulla with its traditional
history, and we felt in our hearts those scenes
could never soon be obliberated. They had left
an impression which was not likely to be forgot-
ten.

CHAPTER XVII.

CAHIRAMEE FAIR.

" One time I went to Donneybrook,

That good old Irish fair, sir,

Where everything is jovial

And devoid of all care, sir,

Where the boys all dress so neat

And the girls all dress so gaily,

And the whiskey flies around
And so does the old shillalah!"

IF a person would form any correct idea of the
people, see them in all their conditions of life,
notice their habits and humors, an Irish fair Is
certainly a'very good place to go to, and one
misses a great treat by failing to attend one of
these fairs if they have the opportunity to do so.
There is a general mingling of all classes. Here
you will see the richest of the rich and the poorest
of the poor all jostled together in one great
throng. And if there is one thing the Irish peo-
ple enjoy better than another it is one of these
fairs. All seem to be In their glory "with their
sprig of shillalah and shamrock so green."
They seem to feel it a part of their life and duty
to go to the fair, for nothing puts a stop to that
memorable day or interferes with its sports. They
cast aside all cares and go in for having a real
jolly time of it. They are a class of people who
have rare talents for enjoyment, and with their

103io4

A TRIP TO IREIANt).

ready wit and good humor make fun for every-
body else.

Well, it was my good luck to be in Ireland at
the time of the great Cahiramee fair, which is
held for two days, always beginning on the
twelfth of July unless that day falls on Sunday,
then it makes it a day later. It is the greatest
stock fair in the south part of Ireland. The finest
horses are brought for exhibition and sale. We
had heard nothing much talked of but the fair for
several days before hand, as our friends antici-
pated making a great sale of stock on the fair
days; that is the time they always sell stock in
that country. They hold what they call a small
fair every month, in many of the towns, which
affords the farmer a chance of buying and selling
stock. The women often participate in these
sales as much as the men, and it is rare fun to
hear some of them making a bargain ; they make
it a point to out-talk the men every time. The
day dawned clear and beautiful, and we were up
early making preparations for our trip to the
fair. For, if it was not the distinguished Donny-
brook fair, I felt assured there would be plenty of
fun and amusement to be seen, and I was not in
the least disappointed. It is the largest fair held
in the part of Ireland where we were visiting.
The field in which it is held incloses some forty
acres. It lies between Doneraile and Buttevant,
in a beautiful section of country, and is some fiveCAHIRAMEE FAtR.

105

miles distant from where our friends live. I
must confess I enjoyed the ride very much, the
morning being fine and the scenery along the
road lovely and picturesque, and I had become
used to the jaunting car and looked upon it as an
indispensable thing in making our tours through
the country.

Our friends seemed to enjoy very much the
idea of taking a Yankee (as they called me) to the
tair, and with jesting, laughing and story telling
we hardly missed the time spent in going. Soon
we were surprised in the midst of our jollity by
one of the party shouting,44 We are in sight of
the fair grounds." Sure enough; and now we
could see the roads in every direction thronging
with vehicles of all styles, from the grand
barouche down to the donkey car with the driver
urging the little beast on with whip and tongue,
which was amusing to say the least. The poor
donkey jogging along in the one steady gait,
while his master is continually pelting away at
his sides with a stick and halloing, " gwe aine,
gwe aine," meaning go on. I do not mean to
impress the mind of the reader that Ireland is a
land of donkeys, but I must say that the donkey,
the car, and the driver, form quite a pleasing
feature in this interesting multitude of fair going
people. But here they are coming, rolling along
from every ^direction, and we are led to wonder
where they all come from on this little island.106

A TRIP TO IRELAND.

At last we are landed on the fair grounds, and
such a din of noises as gree$ our ears. The donk-
eys braying, the sheep bleating, and amidst all
the old piper sending forth his musical strains
from an old " bag-pipe " he is puffing away at,
besides many other musical instruments they had
on the grounds which made a charming effect.

However, we at last became used to the confus-
ion of noises, and started around to take in the
sights and amusement. „The first day of the fair
is generally taken up principally with the sale of
stock, cattle, hogs and sheep. I was somewhat
surprised to see such immense droves of stock of
all kinds, and splendid looking, too.

The second day of the fair there is nothing but
horses exhibited, and my! such beautiful horses.

It was said there were upwards of two thousand
on exhibition. It was a grand sight to see them
racing, trotting and pacing. They were fine
animals.

But one thing, according to my opinion, spoils
the real beauty of their horses in that country, is
in cutting off their tails and manes.

They are all bob-tailed. It seemed a strange
idea to me, but of course it was the custom of the
country.

There were men from France, England, Scot-
land and all parts of Ireland, come to buy horses
at this fair. Rows of tents were stretched
through the center of the grounds, where youCAHIRAMEE FAIR.

107

could procure plenty to eat and drink. Each tent
had its owner's name and where he was from
printed in large letters in front; they were sup-
plied with seats and tables. Refreshments of all
kinds were served with tea, soup, porter and
spirits as a beverage, porter being the main
drink at all times. There were no stoves for
cooking purposes ; but they had the fire arranged
under a triangle iron stand that held the boiling
kettle, all the bread and meats being cooked be-
forehand. For salad they had a sea weed they
called dilisk, which comes in with the "tide. It
looks some like parsley, it went very nice with
boiled meat. All grades of people seemed to com-
mingle here together, eating and drinking in the
same tent, and humanity is represented in various
styles, from the distinguished gentleman to the
poor peasant. There are the greatest variety of
games and amusements to be seen, and some are
very attractive and interesting. In fact, every
device in the way of sport, amusements and tricks
you could think of are resorted to, to catch the
pennies. The little clog dancer carries his board,
two feet in length by one and a half wide under
his arm, and stops wherever he thinks the chances
are good to catch a few pennies by giving an ex-
hibition of his skill; it generally draws quite a
crowd. There are two go together, one does the
fifing while the other dances. Then there is also
a great amount of singing done at these fairs,108

A TRIP TO IRELAND.

which is resorted to as one way of begging, and if
you stand * and listen to you are considered under
some obligation to pay for it. There are also a
variety of musical instruments played upon for
the same object, and not only at the fair, but in
the streets in this country, as a genteel way of
begging. It would be impossible to represent to
the reader the amount of interest and excitement
there is at one of these fairs, or even to attempt to
give any general feature regarding its various at-
tractions. To be appreciated it must be seen, for

'' Who has e'er had the luck to see one of these fairs,

Will see an Irishman all in his glory there."

And to all who ever visit old Ireland, I would say
do not miss seeing one of those fairs; they are
one of the charms that belong to the country.

We left the fair on the afternoon of the second
day early, that we might have the opportunity of
seeing some places we had in view, before leaving
the old country. Taking another road from
the one we came on afforded us fresh scenery and
also the pleasure of visiting the lovely little town
- of Doneraile, which was the perfection of neat-
ness. We passed through many of the streets and
could but remark how clean and tidy everything
looked; perfect order and neatness seemed to
reign. The sidewalks were all paved and the
streets were macadamized as I have described in a
former chapter, and they kept them scraped and
the walks swept till everything presents such anCAHIRAMEE FAIR.

109

air of cleanliness you become favorably impressed
at once. The business part of the town is built on
the west side of a beautiful stream called the Ovug.

On the east side there are some very fine resi-
dences, the ground is quite prominent and they
looked from the river magnificent and bespoke
wealth and comfort by their surroundings. How
quiet it seemed, and how sweetly the music of the
river and the singing of the little birds sounded
to us that afternoon.

"What a consolation to the tired and weary
brain and fatigued body when we can seek a
retired spot. And what joy to the exhausted
nerves to find just the place to lull our senses to
quietness after the turmoil din and confusion we
experienced in 'tending the fair. Feeling that we
needed just such a calm place to rest ourselves;
we went down on the bridge that spans the beauti-
ful Ovug river.

' To sit where the waters murmur
To the birds in the bending trees,

While the river wavelets glitter,

Stirred by the evening breeze."

0	how calm, how lovely. Here we found all
that our tired and weary brains needed to lull us
back to quietness.

1	believe I shall never forge * ^hat charming
place. The rustling of the leaves in the trees as
the wind moved them, and the sweet murmur of
the waters below, sent such a peaceful rest to our
minds after the two days' bustle we had en-110

A TRIP TO IRELAND.

countered. But the hands on the old clock in the
tower tell us the day is waning, and we must be
stirring, as there are a few other points to visit.
With something akin to sadness I bade adieu to
this spot of tranquil beauty, feeling I should never
see it again. We then started for Lord Doneraile's,
it being on our road home. He has a grand man-
sion, with all the luxury wealth can procure. To
give a description of it would seem almost like a
. repetition of others. They are very hospitable.
Lord Doneraile is very fond of animals, and he
has a lovely park where deer roam at pleasure ;
he is also fond of sport, and keeps his horses and
dogs ready for the chase. We made a slight turn
over his grounds. I was more than charmed with
nature's beauty assembled here. What an impos-
ing scene his park presents! A vast lawn slightly
sloping down to a purling stream, which is partly
shaded by a row of beech trees which seem to hold
themselves in solemn pomp as they stand so far
above all others; and the deer in small herds are
coming down to the little brook to drink. Some
-are startled and pricking back their ears; they
turn and run away; they speed to a clump of
bushes to*be seen in the distance. And now and
then a hare, which are so plentiful in these parks,
comes bounding out of its hiding-place and sports
around in joyful glee; no fear have they of the
hunter's rifle in that country.

But we cannot tarry longer, as evening is fast
approaching. So adieu to Doneraile.CHAPTER XVIII.

ROCK FOREST.

'' How sweet in dawning's solitude,

From that fond spot to trace,

The dusky forms of rising hills,

And many a storied place."

HERE would be little use in trying to write

anything pertaining to Ireland without men-
tioning her oft-repeated stories and legends. They
belong to her as much as the soil, and Ireland
would not be Ireland without them.

Therefore one must write them anew, or cer-
tainly they would lose much that closely relates
in part with Ireland's history. Every picturesque
ruin has its legend which clings to it like vines to
the mouldering walls. And one must readily
admit that it lends a charm to travel, that with-
out would leave a vacuum. As we ponder beside
some old ruin, or trace our steps to yonder crumb-
ling castle, u famed in story," which hangs on the
crest of the hill, or visit that lonely dell, where on
certain times or seasons of the year in the long
ago the witches held their revelry, we are led
more or less to associate the scenes with the stories
that have been related about them, and one will
travel for miles to view some of those enchanting
places which hold so much romance around them.
,You can always feel assured when traveling in

111112

A TRIP TO IRELAND.

Ireland if you see some old or strange looking
place, or visit some old ruin, there hangs around
it a romance or legend, and especially if you hap-
pen to meet some of the peasantry, they can
interest you with a story that will make you think
the country is either blest or bewitched, and if
you want a day's jolly fun just hire one of those
Irish car drivers to take you out through the
country for a day's ride. They will point out
and name to you more places than a school-boy
could learn in a week's study, and each place has
a legend of its own, whether real or imaginary.

They are possessed of such ready wit and a
humorous way of relating a story that you feel at
once there is no lost time spent in their company,
and are amply repaid for what you expend in
hiring them. During our stay in Ireland we had
heard them speak repeatedly of " Kock Forest,"
or the u Great House," and the distance not being
great, we contrived to bring it in our way to visit
it before leaving Ireland. We had been favored
with a special invitation from Mr. Franks, the
4andlord of Carrig Kilcanway, and several other
estates, to be sure and call before leaving for
America. Therefore we concluded to pay our
respects to Mr. Franks, then spend the day in
rambling through the gay woods and sweet-
scented meadows, wending our way to Eock For-
est, and some other places which held a visionary
sway over us.Ross Castle, Lower Lake—Killarney.ROCK FOREST.

113

The morning is lovely and the air is perfumed
with the fragrance of the sweetbriar, the wood-
bine and the meadows, for it is haying time. The
little birds are chattering their sweetest tunes, all
nature is bedecked with loveliness, and we sally
forth to enjoy it.

Having prepared ourselves for the day's jaunt
by filling our lunch-basket, that we might now
and then refresh ourselves while resting, and tak-
ing our little pocket cup, which always proved a
friend whenever we came to one of those cool and
sparkling springs, which we were sure to meet
with in our ramblings, we blithely started down
the lovely glade which led to Mr. Franks. A turn
in the road brought us in view of the Black water
River. "We stopped a few minutes while watch-
ing a tinker's outfit coming along. The party
consisted of two men and a woman with a donkey
and cart. They wished to cross to the opposite
side of the river, but did not exactly know where
the fording place was. After a little consultation
it seemed they concluded they were right, and all
got into the car and started to cross, but it was a
terrible struggle for the poor donkey; it seemed
several times he would give out whilst in the
middle of the river. But after a considerable up-
roar of u get aine" and beating he landed them
safely with the exception of a little wetting which
they all got by the"water running into the car.
After witnessing the landing of the tinkers, we114

A TBIP TO IRELAND.

turned our steps toward Mr. Franks' domain,
wishing to get through with that ceremonious call
first; then we could ramble with pleasure the rest
of the day. Our attention was drawn to the lovely
archways leading to this place; there were large
archways for the carriages to pass through and
narrower ones for persons on foot, and in a corner
there is a secluded seat for the " lodge-keeper " to
sit and watch the place, all artistic mason work.
We took a view of a yard in which they stack
grain ; it was quite a curiosity to me. There were
posts of chiseled stone dotted along in rows which
stood two feet above the ground, with caps of
stone some twenty inches in diameter on top of
these posts. It was not stacking time when we
were there, and some of the caps were down
leaning against the posts. They were perfectly
smooth on the side set on top of the post. In
stacking time they lay poles across, from one post
to the other, and then recross them with poles and
stack their grain on them, keeping their grain
entirely off the ground. The posts are chiseled so
smooth, they look like timber with the bark peeled
off. They certainly make great use of stone in
Ireland. But then, when we consider the cheap-
ness of labor, we are not so much surprised, for
the value of the time it takes to bring it into
utility is as nothing.

We now arrive at the imposing mansion of
Landlord Franks. This estate is situated on theROCK FOREST.

115

north side of the Blacbwater river and upon the
same eminence of ground as the garden of the " D "
is, only that is a projecting cliff at the outer edge.
This garden also belongs to Mr. Franks' residence.
In shape the house is hexagonal, having six equal
sides, with two towers, one on the east side and
the other on the west. It will perhaps always
remain a mystery what those towers were exactly
built for; but of course it is with them as in
everything else wrapped in mystery. They are
open to different opinions and theories. The gen-
eral belief, however, is that they were built for
protection in time of war, as the impenetrable
thickness of the walls would indicate.

The main building is three stories high and
modeled after the ancient structures of many of
the buildings of that country. In its construction
outside, there is not a bit of wood whatever used,
the entire building being of stone with artistically
carved cornice, window caps, door caps, facing,
etc. The roof is slate; thus it really constitutes
a complete structure of stone. This, however, is
observable in the construction of all the castles
and mansions in Ireland. We ascended a flight
of stone steps, which were arched under like a
bridge. Iron railings were on each side of the
steps, and it was finished with a stone platform,
and costly rugs lay in front of the door. In
answer to the bell the butler soon made his ap-
pearance and, bowing us in, escorted us to the116

A TBIP TO IRELAND.

parlor; taking our cards to Mr. Franks, he sent
for us to come to his private boudoir, where we
were received with great welcome. After con-
versing for some time upon various topics, Mr.
Franks showed us through his lovely residence.

The first room leading from his own is Mrs.
Frank's boudoir, the two rooms being separated
by heavy portieres. He seemed to take great
interest in showing us the many delightful views
from his windows. He called our attention par-
ticularly to this one:

He said, "take a view from here." We did.
Looking out upon that beautiful garden called the
"D," and then across the Blackwater river, you
see a lovely valley stretching alongside of the
river; you can see cattle, some of them feeding,
some standing in the river. Looking across this
valley, the ground begins to rise, and you can see
farms and thatched cottages ; then, away in the
distance, you can discover the outlines of Rahan
mountain, rising up like a dark cloud in the
horizon. This view was from his own private
boudoir. "We could not blame him for the vanity
he displayed in showing us that beautiful scenery,
for it was mostly nature's own pencilings. After
finishing our tour through his lovely palace, Mr.
Franks sounded his call bell, when the aforesaid
butler appeared again, and, on receiving orders,
soon returned with wine and porter, it being
almost indispensable in treating visitors properly.ROCK FOEEST.

117

We found him so genial and hospitable we
tarried longer than we expected to. I understood
he was generally liked, and not so hard-hearted
as some of the landlords. Be that as it may, we
were delightfully entertained and enjoyed our
visit, which impressed us with the kindliest feel-
ings toward the gentleman. Mr. Franks expressed
his regrets that Mrs. Franks was absent and
would not get to see the Americans. But I felt,
though it might have been interesting to Mrs. F.
to have seen a live Yankee, we could not have
enjoyed ourselves better, and with our compli-
ments to Mr. Frank for the very attractive
manner in which we had been entertained and,
drinking to each other's health, we bade him
adieu and started forth to find Bock Forest, the
place we had so pictured in our minds from the
many stories we had listened to relating to its sad
history. As we came in view of it we pause to
take a survey of it and ponder over the strange
events that should bring such a wonderful struc-
ture to desolation. Its situation is grand ; stand-
ing on a high eminence of ground on the south
side of the river, it.commands an extensive view
of the country. It covers nearly a half acre of
ground, and has three hundred and sixty-five win-
dows in it, one for every day of the year.

The eccentric individual or individuals who
built this house evidently went in for light. It is
called the " Great House" by the people around118

A TRIP TO IRELAND.

there, and is superstitiously looked upon as being
haunted and no one will live in it, although it is a
delightful place. The story runs that it was got
wrongfully and by bloodshed, and that there can
be heard dismal noises, cries and groans echoing
through it, and that the crows which are to be
seen everywhere else, never build their nests in
Rock Forest. The latter seems to be literally
true, for we never heard a <rcaw," "caw" while
near the great house. From its great eminence
you can look over the battle grounds called Bal-
lagooly and Carragoon, which I will presently
describe to the reader. We reconnoitred the prem-
ises for some time but did not see any ghosts or
hobgoblins to break the charms of the romantic
scenery of Rock Forest, but nevertheless the des-
olateness of the place was very impressive, and I
thought how lamentable it was to see such a struc-
ture fall into ruins. High cliffs of rocks line the
south bank of the river below the 5£ Great House"
for some distance with deep caves running into
them. There are many legends belonging to
them. One runs thus: During the war times in
Ireland a young man was being pursued and he
was forced to take refuge in one of these caves.
His sweetheart would row across the river under
cover of the night and bring him victuals; but
somehow she was induced to betray him and one
night she brought the enemy to capture him, but
it cost her her life; he drew his sabre and killed her.ROCK FOREST.

119

It is said noises like a shriek issue from this
cave at night.

Wending our way along on the north bank of
the river we came to what is called the noted
"beech tree," which stands on Island Shelah. This
monstrous beech tree is twenty feet in circumfer-
ence at its base, at ten feet from the ground, it
branches out into five forks which rise straight up
for six feet before they branch out; they look
like columns of granite, the bark being so smooth.
Then from these five forks it puts forth its huge
branches in every direction, covering a large area
of space. The main body of this tree is covered
with people's names carved in the bark. "We could
read na mes dated as far back as eighteen hundred
and forty-seven and there were many we could
not make out.

We looked on this ancient tree with feelings
akin to reverence; there it stands a living monu-
ment bearing the names of hundreds that have
passed away. We engraved our names, with date,
feeling that we too like many others would pass
away, and still the old tree would bear the storms
of ages.

Journeying on we come to Carragoon; here
were several huge rocks projecting out into the
river resembling so many huge alligators basking
in the sunshine. A short distance farther, in a
beautiful green plat of ground we came to a spring,
dug some four feet down into the ground, walled120

A TRIP TO IRELAND.

up and arched over; there being an entrance with
steps leading down to the water, we here rested,
partaking of our lunch and refreshing ourselves
from this* crystal fount. Bat this lovely vale pos-
sesses a desolateness that somewhat saddens its
charms. And I listen silently while J. relates of
the many families that used to live in these parts,
and tells me of the lads that he has drunk with
from this spring, and he sighs as he thinks of those
friends of his youth, never again to hear the wel-
come of yore, from those snug whitewashed cabins
that stood there in the long ago. All seems life-
less.

" Where are the lads all so hearty and dutiful ?

The sire whom they honored, the mother they loved ?
The lassies whose homeliness made them more beautiful
Of fields where they labored, of hills where they roved.
The answer is, gone to America.

" Gone from the cottage, the slope and the lea,

Grieving while leaving, yet fled over the sea,

Gone to America,

Gone to Ameri
Is it forever ? God knows. It may be."

These words, quoted from some verses written
by Thomas Cleary, bespeak the feelings of the
Irish people when they ponder how the youths of
their country are forced, for the sake of freedom,
to leave that which is so dear to the heart, the old
home.

Ascending the hill, we were now on the Carra-
goon battle ground, and here we find anotherROCK FOREST.

121

large and commodious building falling into ruins,
and like many others we had seen was admirable in
architectural design. We traversed many of its
rooms, J. showing me where the dining room and
spacious kitchen, with its large fire place, were
located ; though the walls were crumbling away it
was in fine condition, and rang with cheer when
Dr. Curtin, the parish physician, lived there. As
Hooked on these large and commodious buildings,
now all deserted, I thought of the many families
living in small cabins with scarcely room enough
to breathe comfortably in, while one of these
houses contained more room than twenty of the
little'huts, was left to crumble into ruins unoccu-
pied ; it all seemed like a mystery to me. Some of
the walls of the stable belonging to the place were
standing, showing the beautiful arched doorways
with nicely carved caps, where the prancing steeds
had been domiciled by their proud owner, and even
the groom must have felt a feeling of pride in per-
forming his labor in the midst of such surround-
ings. All this grandeur, built by man, is crumb-
ling into ruin. All its pride and vain glory is
passed away; nothing now remains to beautify
the surroundings but nature, God's own art. I
will close this chapter with a slight detail of this
battle-field.

The Carragoon was the stronghold of the Irish.
It is situated on the north side of the river, on
a high, cliffy point, with crumbling walls aroundm

A TRIP TO IRELAND.

it. Across the river on the south side it is called
Ballagooly. Here stands the garrison held by
the English. It was hotly contested in the latter
period of the sixteenth century. This fortress is
well preserved and *is surrounded by trees, and
lovely lawns lie between it and the river. There
is a story related that during this long and ter-
rible conflict between the English and the Irish
they were getting short of provisions on the Irish
side, when they resorted to a piece of stratagem
which cleverly relieved them of suffering from
the pangs of hunger, if it was in a manner a cruel
piece of work.

Taking one of their cows they tied it to a stake
and tarred and set fire to it. The cattle belong-
ing to the English were grazing on the other side
of the river, and upon hearing the terrible bellow-
ing of the poor cow they all stampeded across to
the Irish camp and were captured by the Irish,
which enabled them to hold out longer in the
struggle. These grounds seemed to be well situ-
ated for battle fields.

After traversing them to our satisfaction we
turned our steps homeward, passing through a
grove of beech trees, called "Collins' Screen."
There were four straight rows of them extending
for the distance of a mile. These trees are of
surpassing beauty for their majestic, gigantic and
spreading forms.

It is delightful to pass through one of thoseROCK FOREST.

123

avenues of trees on a bright summer day; the
green, velvety grass like a carpet under the trees,
without the slightest bit of underbrush or weeds
to be seen, makes it strikingly attractive. For-
give me for my enthusiasm over these beautiful
parks and their magnificent trees. I would never
tire extolling their beauty or expressing my de-
light at their grandeur. Passing through this
park we came to a gate which let us out to the
main travelled road. Square, massive pillars
stood on each side of the gate; then the high
stone wall was formed in a curvature of a half-
circle about four feet in diameter each side of the
gate, with a smooth stone seat in each curvature,
thus affording a resting place for the weary trav-
eler.

How noticeable such little nooks and corners
are in Ireland as you travel through the country,
as if they had been expressly thought of to add to
the comfort of the pedestrian, as such pleasant
resting places give one courage to venture far-
ther in pursuit of those haunts that can be reached
only on foot.

We rested ourselves in this lovely little nook
with twining ivy above our heads, making it al-
most like an arbor. Soon we took a short cut for
home across the railroad bridge which spans
Oarrig glen. Stopping a few minutes on the
bridge to look at the rabbits which were seen by
dozens gaily skipping below.us in the glen, wish-124

A TRIP TO IRELAND.

ing that we could only .venture to shoot at them,
but it being against the law we had to forego the
pleasure. So we hurried on, arriving at home in
time to enjoy a good supper in waiting for us,
feeling in good spirits over our day's jaunt to
Rock Forest and the battle fields of Carragoon
and Ballamahooly.

CHAPTER XIX.

THE ROUND TOWERS OF IRELAND.

The pillar towers of Ireland how wondrously they stand,
By the lakes and rushing rivers, through the valleys of the

land,	x

In mystic file through the isle, they lift their heads sublime,
These gray old pillar temples—these conquerors of time.

HINKING it might prove interesting to many

of the readers, who may peruse this little
book, I have compiled this chapter from historical
extracts, on the round towers of Ireland. It is
hard to tell just what those towers were built
for, as they exist nowhere outside of Ireland0
Some think, however, they were built for strong-
holds in time of war and to display beacon3 of
light. Others that they were built by worshipers
of the sun. But as sure knowledge seems to be
wanting on the subject, we must place them in the
catalogue of those things which are left to con-
jectures, and be satisfied to leave the real purpose
for which they were built to be unravelled in
problems. But one thing is certain, they really
exist, and attract the wonder and admiration of
those who behold those works of ancient art,
which seem to be unsurpassed for strength and
durability in construction.

Dr. Petrie in his comprehensive work on the
Irish round towers, speaking in general, says, " In

125126

A TJRIP TO IRELAND.

their massive construction the round towers pre-
sent considerable variety, but the generality of
them are built in that kind of careful masonry
called spauled rubble, in which small stones
shaped by the hammer, in default of suitable ones
at hand, are placed in every interstice of the
larger stones, so that very little mortar appears to
be intermixed in the body of the wall, and thus
the outside of spauled masonry especially,presents
an almost uninterrupted surface of stone, sup-
plementary splinters being carefully inserted in
the stone of the undried wall." So little mortar
being used would convey the idea that probably
that is one reason that they are so indestructible
and resist decomposition for ages.

The Round Tower of Clondalkin is about five
miles from Dublin, and is one of the most perfect
specimens of those singular structures in the island.
It is about eighty-five feet in height by fifty in
circumference; at the height of ten feet from the
ground below that the wall is built in the form of
a buttress. The door which faces the east is
twelve feet from the ground, and the walls are
five and a half feet in thickness and apparently as
impenetrable as iron.

■&

The Eound Tower of Swords is seven miles
north from Dublin. It is seventy feet high, and
is remarkably preserved. The ancient name of
this place was Sair-ard, which Kane, in hisTHE ROUND TOWERS OF IRELAND.

127

"Towers and Temples of Ancient Ireland," inter-
prets as " The high place of the mermaid."

The Round Tower of Ardmore, in Waterford
county, is ninety feet high, and is of remarkable
construction. It is built wholly of ashlar stone,
and is in a perfect condition yet. The builders of
ancient times in Ireland must have understood
architecture thoroughly, as none but perfect work-
men could have left behind them so substantial
and excellent specimens of their handiwork, that
have withstood the storms of ages.

McCarthy's verses written on the "Pillar
Towers of Ireland" are unrivalled in poetic
description. I selected three verses to interpose
in this chapter, the first, sixth and eighth, as
they typically represent* to the reader in an
exquisite manner those old temples that have lost
their origin.

The names of their founders have vanished in the gloom,
Like the dry branch in the fire, or the body in the tomb;
But to-day, in the ray, their shadows still they ^ast—
These temples of forgotten gods—these relics of the past!

There they stand in all their majestic glory,
like great sentinels, without any history to tell
wha. the achievement of such grand architectural
worlr was for; whether it was for idolatrous Wor-
ship or for warfare is veiled in mystery, but most
likely the latter, as the construction would indi-
cate by the impenetrable walls. * * * * *128

A TRIP TO IRELAND.

The Kound Tower of Aughagower stands three
miles from Westport, in the county of Mayo. It
is not in quite as good preservation as some of
the others of these ancient relics, which Dennis
Florence McCarthy so practically addressed as
u Conquerors ,of Time," but nevertheless, it has an
interesting history. It withstood the storms of
ages, until the " Night of the Big Wind," when
the conical capstone and a small portion of the
top were blown down. It has been stated by
some of the oldest inhabitants that the capstone
was found over a mile away. Near the tower
are the remains of an old abbey, and beside it a
print of a knee in a solid rock. Tradition says
that this mark was left by St. Patrick when he
visited Aughagower, and it is known that the
little hole which has no visible outlet is never
entirely dry, which seems to verify the tradition
that there is something miraculous about it. The
town and abbey are surrounded by an ancient
graveyard in which are ash trees which are
claimed by the oldest inhabitants to be two hun-
dred years old', their age being handed down
through each succeeding generation. Altogether
Aughagower is one of the most interesting vil-
lages that a student of " Ireland's Past" might
visit in Mayo. Speaking of the County of Mayo
inclines me to diverge a little from the subject of
its round towers to tell the readers of Kilmore
Abbey. One of the most secluded and interest-Muckross Abbey—Killarney.THE BOUND TOWERS OF IRELAND.	129

ing abodes of the dead in North Mayo is Kilmore
cemetery. This sacred resting place for the dead
is situated on an elevated plateau in the midst of
extensive sloping meadows, which, in spring and
summer time forms as grand and picturesque a
scene as can be found. This cemetery is one
mile from the market square of Ballina, on the
Killala road, and as you approach its confines you
are at once inspired with interest. You see on
the one side an extensive grotto ; the next scene
which greets the eye is the antique tower of the
historic abbey, which stands in the center of the
sacred necropolis of Kilmoremoy. Farther on
your attention is drawn to a large isolated boul
der, which is located inside the meadow wall that
skirts along the neighboring meadow which en-
circles the abbey grounds, and on each end of
this huge rock—north, east, west and south—
there is an indention in the shape of a human
skull, and tradition says that St. Patrick, in his
desire to leave his foot-prints on the "sandsof
time," caused these relics to be figured in the
rock, representing the cardinal points of his
ecclesiastical kingdom in Ireland. On the sum-
mit of this ancient relic lies a pile of small stones,
deposited by the various pilgrims who have vis-
ited the sacred shrine from time to time through
ages past. The Abbey of Kilmore is distin-
guished as the resting place of the last Prince of
Tyrauley u Hamilgaed," near the Prince's maus-130

A TKIP TO IRELAND.

oleum, is another rock which is held as a relic of
interest, as there appears a large circular cross,
which has a design in its center and is known by
the tradition as " The Cross of the Kings" of

this palatinate of ancient royalty.

■fc •&

The Round Tower of Cashel is probably the
most ancient and not the least interesting of a
group of buildings on the Rock of Cashel. The
summit of the Rock Cashel is mostly girdled by
a wall, and from its circuit are to be seen the fine
ruins of the great cruciform conventual church,
of the Cistercian 'Abbey, with its massive Central
Tower, and tall triplets of lancets in the gables,
standing desolate and gray. From another point
of view may be distinguished the fragments of
the lower part of the ancient city of Cashel, and
one may trace out more or less the angient lines
of walls, not many years swept away, whilst the
Dominican Abbey and the site of the Franciscan
Friary, where now stands the modern Catholic
Church, rise from amidst the houses of the citi-
zens. From Cashel Rock is to be seen in the dis-
tance the outlines of those magnificent mountains
Sleive Bloom, Galtees and Comeragh, which are
so interesting to the tourist. The Round Tower
on Cashel Rock is built in grit stone, and is
excellently constructed. The diameter at the
base is nineteen feet, and the elevation ninety
feet. It retains the original stone capping ofTHE ROUND TOWERS OF IRELAND.	131

conical form and cornice, immediately below
which, four small openings face the cardinal
points. Other openings, which once lit the floors
at lower levels have disappeared, and the door-
way at a height of ten feet from the ground is
now blocked up. These towers afford to the
tourist a great deal of pleasure while traveling
through Ireland. There is so much to draw on
the mind—the style, the architecture, the skillful
workmanship, and we wonder why it is so lost in
history when it seems, most everything else of

consequence has some historical record.

* • * . *

The Round Tower of Kells is located in the
county of Meath. In ancient times, Kells was
reckoned one of the most famous cities in Ireland
and on the invasion of the English, it was walled
in with towers. In 1178 a castle was built wherev
the market place is now, and opposite the castle
was a large cross of an entire stone, ornamented
with bas relief figures, and many curious inscrip-
tions in the ancient Irish character. This Eound
Tower of Kells is ninety-nine feet high. The
roof ends in cardinal points, and near the top
are four windows of elegant design facing the
cardinal points.

How many different rites have these old temples known?
To the mind, what dreams are written on these chronicles of
stone?

What terror, and what error, what gleams of love and truth,
Have flashed from these walls since the world was in its youth?132

A TRIP TO IRELAND.

I will close this chapter with a little sketch of
the raths which are found throughout Ireland.
They do not seem to be rapt in such mystery as
to their purpose, as surrounds the round towers
of Ireland. There have been many things found
which have led the inhabitants to believe they were
built for refuge. The rath is formed by a circular
excavation enclosing sometimes more but gener-
ally less than an English acre. The earth forms
a bank or rampart that conceals and shelters the
inner part of the fort. It is further protected by
a broad, deep trench. There seems to have been
sometimes one, and sometimes two places of
entrance. The situation of these forts is usually
on high ground, and their position such as to
command a communication with each other. In
most, probably all of them, is a vault, seldom
extending more than a few yards, about four feet
wide, and too low to be entered except in a
bending position. This probably served as a
storage room for provisions, or an occasional
shelter in inclement weather. There are many
things noticeable which would indicate a place of
defence as, well as habitation adapted to a people
who had invaded the country and intended to
hold it. Such strength as you will find in many
of them implying a state of contention and
insecurity, would seem irreconcilable with the
idea of a pastoral life and the common condition
of aboriginal inhabitants. They are most numer-THE ROUND TOWERS OF IRELAND.	133

ous along the sea coast, then as well as at present
the most thickly inhabited part. One cause of
the raths remaining so entire to the present day
is the unwillingness of the country people to level
or interfere with them, not out of religious ven-
eration, but from one of those unaccountable
fancies which places good or bad luck in unmean-
ing occurrences.

CHAPTEK XX.

LEAVING THE OLD FARM HOME.

The woodbine blossoms sweetly shed

Their odors on the gale,

And Flora in profusion spread

Her gems o'er hill and dale.

Coekrobin every now and then

Would sing his little trill,

While thrush and blackbird down the glen
Sung love songs louder still.

S. Moore.

IT was love and beauty all around but we must
now bid adieu to the old farm home where we
have passed so many pleasant weeks while sojour-
ning in Ireland. Not that we were yet ready
to leave its green shores, but to make it more
convenient in visiting other points of interest. We
wished to spend a few days on the Lakes of Kil-
larney, and visiting other parts before bidding a
final farewell to Ireland, so thought it best to
take up our abode in town, where we could more
easily take the train for those places. So, accord-
ingly, we packed our trunks, jumped aboard the
little car and went jogging into Mallow, where
we put up at the hotel for awhile. But we missed
the endearments that clung around the old home ;
we felt there was a magic spell surrounding that
old home, for mother was there to give us. the
morning's greeting, her warm welcome at our

134LEAVING THE OLD FARM HOME,	135

return from a day's journey and we were made
comfortable by loving hands. We missed the
evening chat, when friends and neighbors would
gather in, and we would listen to their stories of
fairies, ghosts and hobgoblins, and what they
had seen in the old Boreen beyant such a place,
on some dark stormy night when they were re-
turning home from town. We in turn would
have to relate something about America, which
was always greeted with enthusiasm, and eager
listeners were always to be found to hear about our
own free land, and the fire in the old fire place
would glow, as if to make things more cheerful
by its bright light. We most generally had a fire,
as the evenings are somewhat chilly there, and
mother's pet dog, Mink, seemed to enjoy it best of
all; he would get that close to the glowing embers
you would think he would surely scorch, and
mother would call " Mickeen, Mickeen, get out of
there or you will surely get burnt," but Mick would
only get up, stretch himself, and turn another side
to the fire, as much as to say, " never mind, I am
comfortable." He was a fine species of the terrier,
a splendid dog for hunting game and keeping
watch of the sheep,; 1 called him a little terror.
They tried hard to favorably impress me with
Mickeen's good qualities, but alas, one day he
absolutely finished all the esteem I ever held for
him, by attacking a dog which belonged to some
gentry who were passing by in their carriage.136

A TRIP TO IRELAND.

One of the young ladies jumped from the carriage
in her frenzy to save her dog's life, and caught
hold of Mick and tried to pull him off. We were
terribly frightened for fear he would turn on her,
but he had too good a hold on the dog to think
of letting go, and it probably saved her from being
lacerated by hita. With the force of club and
pitchfork used on him he finally let go his hold
on the poor dog, which he would have killed in a
short time by teariug his throat open, his method
of dispatching whatever he took hold of. The
lady put her dog in the carriage and went on. We
never learned how badly it was hurt, but hoped it
would live through its injuries. Mickeen lost
favor with me after committing that bad deed.
Then we missed the merry times we had, jogging
along to Cahiramee fair, Rahan Mountain, Bally -
griffin station and numerous other pleasure tours,
with the old bob-tailed horse and little jaunting
car, all hold their respective places in the endear-
ments of the old farm home, and we seem to hear
in the distance the little noisy streamlet in its
flight as it winds its way down through Carrig
glen, where its hum of sweet delight leaves music
on the wind. But life is made of many changes,
and as the poet sadly sung:

" All that's bright must fade,

The brightest, still the fleetest,

All that's sweet was made
But to be lost when sweetest."

And thus it seemed every day had brought itsLEAVING THE OLD FARM HOME.	137

charms and new delights, every day had added
to our enjoyment and endeared us to that bright,
sunny spot and loving friends, " All to be lost
when sweetest." But why should we dwell on
that parting scene, for though it cast its shadow,
sweet memories recall those bright scenes and
happy times, and they awaken in us sweet visions,
and we seem to live them over again, and we feel
it was a bright, sunny spot in our lives to be re-
membered with pleasure and amply repaid us for
the journey we had made to visit those scenes and
friends in dear old Ireland.

4 4 Dear shall be the day we met,

And dear shall be the night we parted ;

For never shall my soul forget
The friends I found so cordial hearted."

CHAPTER XXI.

KILLARNEY.

" Oh, did ye ne'er hear
Of Kate Kearney ?

She lives by the Lakes
Of Killarney."

THE next morning after we came into
Mallow, we took the nine o^clock train for
Killarney, that wide-famed place whose legends
have been told and retold but still are listened to
with interest by the tourist. Yes, those oft-
repeated stories seem to possess a charm which
no fable or story outside of Ireland could possess.
They seem to be handed down from its history,
and as I remarked in a previous chapter, if you
write anything about Ireland they must neces-
sarily be repeated, or you would lose much that
closely relates in part with her history, and Ire-
land would not be Ireland, " at all, at all." So
it is in visiting the Lakes of Killarney, if it were
not for the wonderful stories or legends con-
nected with them, there would not be half the
interest felt in visiting them. It is true there is
the grand, the beautiful and the romantic, all
embraced in the lakes and their surroundings, and
when they are embellished by a good story, their
attractions are made greater, and as every scene
is pointed out by your guide in a historical sketch

138KlLLARtfEY.

139

or legend, as to how that happened, or why that
presents such an appearance, you are at once
filled with interest, curiosity and more interested,
than if those rough mountains or smooth lakes
dotted with islands, held no tales of holy monks,
or the great chieftains who once inhabited them.
But I will proceed with my tour to, and on the
Lakes of Eillarney. Taking the nine o'clock train
at Mallow for Killarney, we reached there at
eleven o'clock, the distance being forty-one miles.
The trains in Ireland do not run forty miles an
hour. We passed through Lombourde town,
Kanturk, Mills Street and Keadford, all nice look-
ing villages. But what interested me most on
our trip vyas the immense I had. the oppor-
tunity of viewing. It was not very charming
scenery, but strikingly in contrast with some we
passed and what was yet to greet our eyes. For
miles and miles there was nothing to be .seen but
the brown heath and slimy morass, with the turf
cutters busily engaged in the work of cutting the
turf, loading it into donkey carts, hauling it out
and piling it up into long ricks to dry. They
had long trenches dug, and if the railroad track
had not been very near, we could not have seen
the men at work, in some places they had gone
to such a depth. They could drive their little
donkeys and carts right in and turn around.

There were also women and children engaged at
this work carrying baskets full of turf, and helping140

A TRIP TO IRELAND.

to load up the carts. It is cut out in the shape
of brick and when dry very near as hard, though
almost as light as cork. It makes a very nice,
clean fuel, easy to handle, though. I noticed coal
was used extensively in that country. The bog
is at such an elevation above the level of the sea
that it is capable of being drained and reclaimed,
a process which is going on steadily. As we ap-
proached the end of our journey the scenery pre-
sented a very different aspect. From the low
marshy morass we had been gazing out upon
rose the outlines of the " everlasting hills," and I
heard some of the passengers remark, " there are
the reeks," meaning the mountains, and we soon
arrived at the Killarney railroad station, which is
a very attractive building and -an ornament to
the town, Killarney is situated in the county
of Kerry, on the southwest coast of Ireland.
The Irish name of Killarney is Lough Lane, or
"lake of learning," a name derived from the
monks of Innisfallen, Muckross and Aghado,
who taught at those places students from all
parts of the world. The town is the property of
the Earl of Kenmare. It commands no view of
the lakes, owing to a tract of thick timber be-
longing to Lord Kenmare's estate, which inter-
venes between the town and the lakes. Its pop-
ulation numbers upwards of five thousand. Its
distance from the lower lake is one mile. It l has
some very fine buildings worthy of note, thoughKILLAKNEY.

141

the town for the number of inhabitants it con-
tains presents but a poor appearance to the trav-
eler. They seem to feel satisfied to let the lakes
hold the attraction for the tourist, without trying
to draw from the lovely scenes of nature, with any
great works of architecture, therefore there is but
a small number of fine buildings, compared with
other places of its size. We proceeded to the
hotel where we procured a comfortable apartment
for ourselves whilst visiting the lakes. As the
day was too far spent to travel much of the lakes,
we interested ourselves in viewing the principal
part of the town.

The Catholic Cathedral, Bishop's Palace,
Lunatic Asylum, Poor-house and Convent, are all
very handsome structures, and several other
buildings were noteworthy, but I will only par-
ticularize on one, the Arbutus factory. In this
factory there is a great variety of articles both
useful and ornamental, manufactured from the
Arbutus wood, the "Irish Bog Oak" and several
other kinds of wood, native of the country. The
Arbutus is a beautiful tree shrub which grows
luxuriantly in Killarney. The Bog Oak is dug
from the bogs where it has been submerged for
many centuries past. It is supposed to be the
remains of an ancient forest which has long since
disappeared. This bog oak is carved into breast
pins and other articles of jewelry, besides many
pretty little ornaments which are peddled out in142

A TRIP TO IRELAND.

various parts of the town, but especially will
tourists be assailed out on the lakes, with women
carrying baskets full of small articles to sell, whom
you very seldom get away from without making
a purchase. They are equal to the beggars for
hanging on, but there is the satisfaction in this
case, you get something for your money.

The morning after our arrival in Killarney
dawned lovely, and we were up early preparing
for our tour on the lakes. Engaging our guide,
which is attended with considerable annoyance,
as they are so numerous, and ^ach one shouting
at you that they have the best conveyance, get
you there the quickest (I did not doubt on the
quickness of any of them—that is their forte) and
show you the most points of interest, and so on,
until you feel embarrassed in choosing one from
the number. But as it is very necessary to have
one, to keep from getting lost, and also to give
you the peculiar legendary history of the greenest
spot in the Emerald Isle,, we selected one from
the crowd and, seating ourselves in the car, we
started for the lakes. Our driver was brimful of
fun and seemed very much elated at his victory
over so many others in being employed by us for
the day. He used his talents to the best of his
ability to make himself both polite and interesting
in wit, humor and story-telling. The Lakes of
Killarney are three in number, the Lower Lake or
Lough Leane; the Middle Lake, which is^ also
called Muckross or Torc^ and the Upper Lake,KILLAENEY.

143

The entire length of the three is about twelve
miles. They are situated in the midst of majestic
mountains, which seem to hang around them like
rough but stern guardians, their heads bald and
black-looking, being swept by the storms from
the Atlantic, which keep them always bleak and
bare. Yet in the heart of these ragged mountains
lie the beautiful Lakes of Killarney, which are so
celebrated in song and story. Studded with
romantic islands that possess a wealth of scenery
grand and beautiful, they will always hold an
attraction for the tourist.

The lower hills and meadows bordering on the
lakes are richly cultivated. They all belong to
great estates, chiefly to the Earl of Kenmare, and
to a Mr. Herbert, who have erected some neat
cottages on the lakes for the convenience of tour-
ists to dine in. The prominent legend in regard
to these lakes, is that in former days the valley
over which they flow was richly cultivated
and thickly peopled. But there was a spring
from which the inhabitants procured water, and
that spring the sun must never be permitted to
shine upon, else it would overflow, and flood the
country, so they always provided themselves
with water before sunrise. As each one procured
water they drew a large stone over the well, as
springs are called in that country. But'one
morning a young damsel went for water, and
forgetting to replace the stone, the sun rose and
the spring overflowed, and the water flooded the144

A TRIP TO IRELAND.

valley. But it is supposed, that the ancient in.
habitants, with their Chief the great O'Donohue
are living happily underneath the lakes. The
lower lake is the largest, and is often called on
account of the darkness of its waters- O'Donohue
ink bottle. Our desire was to take in all we could
by land the first day. So our guide drove toward
Tore mountains where we obtained a fine view of
the lakes. Our attention was directed to a roaring
like distant thunder ; soon we were brought in
view of Tore waterfall, which comes leaping and
dashing down a precipice of a hundred and seventy
feet, and rushes on through a deep narrow gorge
and flows into the middle lake. We now follow
our guide to the Muckross domain. This occupies
the peninsula which separates the middle lake,
from the lower lake.

The scenery here is charming. This belongs to
Mr. Herbert, who has taken great pains to make
it very attractive. He has a beautiful residence,
and treats strangers very cordially. At the dis-
tance of one mile from Mr. Herbert's residence
we came to the ruins of Muckross Abbey. Some
say it was built in fourteen hundred and forty,
others, a century earlier. It was built for Fran-
ciscan monks, by the McCarthys, princes 'of Des-
mond. The building consists of two principal
parts, the church and convent. The church is a
hundred feet long and twenty-four wide. The
steeple, which stands between the nave and chan-
cel, rests on four pointed arches. The principalTore Waterfall—Killarney.KILLARNEY.

145

entrance is by a handsome pointed doorway,
luxuriantly overgrown with ivy, through which is
the great eastern window of the choir. Here the
tombs are very numerous, distinguished only by
a slight elevation from the damp mould that sur-
rounds them. This placed we were told, is the
resting place of some of the great chiefs who
lived in those olden times, and their tombstones
are pointed out with care, though in such stages
of dfccay you can scarcely discern an inscription
on any of them. The swift wing of time has left
its mark, and age and decay is discernible on
everything, and we lightly tread on this damp,
mouldy sepulchre trying to trace out the inscrip-
tions on those old tombstones, which are all
more or less entwined with that rare old plant,
the ivy, as though it would embrace those old
walls and keep them from falling, and thus clos-
ing forever from view this historic resting place
of historic dead.

While looking at these mouldering relics of
antiquity, and pondering over the ages that had
rolled by, I recall to mind those beautiful verses
of Charles Dickens, which run thus:

Oh, a dainty p'ant is the ivy green,

That creepeth o'er ruins old ;

Of right choice food are his meals I ween,

In his cell so lone and cold.

The walls must be^crumbled, the stones decayed,

To pleasure his dainty whim ;

And the mouldering dust that years hav^ made/
Is a merry meal for him.

Creeping where no life is seen,

A rare old plant is the ivy green.146

A TRIP TO IRELAND.

Whole ages have fled and their works decayed,

And nations have scattered been ;

But the stout old ivy shall never fade

From its hale and hearty green,

The brave old plant in its lonely days

Shall fatten on the past;

For the stateliest building man can raise
Is the ivy's food at last.

Creeping on where time has been,

A rare old plant is (he ivy green.

The venerable old ruin is kept in tolerable pre-
servation by Mr. Herbert, who watches closely to
prevent the spread of decay. It would be a great
loss to that part of the lakes, as its charms hold a
sway over the tourist, and would be deeply re-
gretted by those who have ever seen it, knowing
it never could be replaced by any structure that
held such historical traditions. The kitchen, the
refectory and several other rooms are in pretty
good condition; but the upper part is unroofed,
and coarse grass grows amongst the fallen rubbish
of the upper rooms. The cloister, which consists
of twenty-two arches, is the best preserved portion
of the abbey. Here the old monks sought retire-
ment from the world that they might lead holy
lives and write historical accounts of the country,
which are now being handed down. In the center
of this cloister grows a large yew tree which
covers, as with a roof, the whole area ; its circum-
ference is thirteen feet, and its height is in pro-
portion. It is more than probable that»this
venerable tree was planted by the monks who
built the sacred edifice centuries ago. Near th§KILLARNEY.

147

abbey, leading along the borders of the lower*
lake, is a walk of two miles called the "Lady's
"Walk." There are seats at intervals to rest upon.
Another, of the same distance, extends along the
borders of the middle lake called " Rock Walk."
Both afford delightful rambles.

After leaving the Abbey, we proceeded along
the peninsula to Bricken Bridge, which connects
the peninsula with Bricken Island. Here you
have a fine view of the lakes. Crossing this we
reach another bridge, which connects it with Din-
nish Island. Those bridges make it very conven-
ient in visiting the various islands which are lo-
cated close together, otherwise you would have
to row across in a boat to get to them. Dinnish
Island is covered with rich shrubbery, among
which the arbutus is prominent. Here we ob-
tained a view of the old Weir Bridge, which spans
the waters of the long range at their most rapid
part; it has two arches, only one navigable by
boat. O'Sullivan's Punch Bowl is between the
old Weir Bridge and Dinnish Island. After a
short stay here we crossed to the Rustic Bridge.
The scenery here possesses a grandeur of beauty
that could hardly be excelled. It is impossible to
convey in words the special features of the land-
scape, as our vision sweeps out upon the beautiful
expanse of Muckross, and we see the many little
boats floating placidly over the mirrored waters.
Viewing those green islands resting on the bosom148

A TKIP TO IRELAND.

of the deep, still waters, covered with a luxuriant
verdure of varied hues, sloping down to the water
in a gradual descent with the over-hanging
boughs of arbutus, which seem to kiss the lake
with the touch of every gentle zephyr, it is a pic-
ture of natural scenery which fills one with de-
light. And as you traverse those islands every
variety of scenery attracts the eye from the sin-
gular to the beautiful and romantic, and you can
no longer doubt but the Lakes of Killarney are in
many places surpassingly lovely.

The rustic bridge connects Dinnish Island with
the main land, and is the last of the three bridges
which enables you to make the circuit of Muekross
lake by car. There are numerous caves on the
Lakes of Killarney. The Colleen Bawn caves on
Muekross lake, are celebrated for their wild and
gloomy aspect. Overshadowed by the flowing
mountains their savage grandeur is very impres-
sive. I will give you the legend of the seven
sisters of. Bally bunion Castle, as it is handed down
and related o'er and o'er. The castle is upon a
high cliff which is full of caverns and rocky inlets.
One of the caverns is called the " Cave of the
Seven Sisters." It is said to have received its
name from the following tragedy: The castle
was inhabited by a chieftain who was the father
of seven daughters. His sword never rusted in
its sheath, and day and night his light galleys
cruised about the coast on. the watch for anyKILLARNEY.

149

piratical marauder who might/turn his prow that
way. One day a sail was observed oh the horizon,
as it came nearer the pirate standard was observed
waving from its mast-head. It was immediately
surrounded by the Irish ships, and after a hard
struggle it was captured. The remaining crew
were all slaughtered and thrown into the sea,with
the exception of the captain and his six brothers.
They were taken to the fortress where their
wounds were dressed, and they were allowed the
free range of the Castle. Here a love sprang up
between them and the seven sisters, who yielded
to their protestations and agreed to fly with them
to Denmark. Everything was arranged for the
voyage, and one stormy night was chosen for the
attempt. Escaping down from the battlement by
a rope ladder, they discovered to their horror, that
they were surrounded by their father's armed men
who conducted them to the old chief. He gave
them one deadly glance of hatred and speaking a
few words to one of the attendants pointed"
towards his daughters. The man receiving the
command seemed transfixed with horror for a
time, then he tried to remonstrate with him, but
the chief was inexorable. The lovers were torn
from each other's arms, and the woman were
brought forth, again proceeding along the brink
of the precipice, they at length came to a chasm
which resembled somewhat the crater of a vol-
cano ; the sisters soon divined their fate. One by150

A TRIP TO IRELAND.

one they were hurled into the boiling flood; one
wild shriek, and all was over. What the fate of the
lovers was seemed never to have been recorded.

The old castle has crumbled into ruins, the
chieftain sleeps in an unknown grave, his name
forgotten, but still the sad ending of the maidens
is remembered, and unto this day the cavern is
denominated the " Cave of the Seven Sisters."
Marvelous stories are related of some of those
caverns and rockv cliffs, and with a magic charm
the traveler is lured on to penetrate many of
those gloomy caves in search of lore, but he
returns no wiser, and is satisfied to take the
legends that his guide has related, as traditionally
handed down without any further research.
What is called the Long Range, is a rapid stream,
which conveys the waters from the upper lake into
Muckross lake. There are some very fantastic-
ally shaped roqks at the entrance of Long Eange,
and marked with something which resembles foot-
prints of men of gigantic stature. There are many
of these marks to be seen about the lakes; their
origin is uncertain, but are probably due to the
atmospheric action on them, nevertheless our
guide gave a graphic detail of the giants that
were supposed to have left those foot-prints im-
bedded in these rocks.

Musing along as the sunlight falls,

Over the gray old castle's walls,

Where a sleepy lake, through the lazy hours,

Crisply mirrors the time-worn towers;

And scarce a whisper rustles the sedge,

Or a ripple lisps to the water's edge.KILIARNEY.

151

The shades of ^evening are approaching, chang-
ing the aspect to some extent. But the parting
rays of the setting sun lends a glorious coloring to
the surroundings of Dinnish Island, lighting up
the diversified foliage with a mirror of loveliness,
a tipping those fantastical rocks with a golden
hue, bringing out curves and outlines that were
unnoticed before, and many forms and figures can
be modeled out by the imaginative mind to repre-
sent different objects. And the shimmering light
on the towering cliffs and shelving rocks, as the
sun gradually sinks on the horizon lend their own
peculiar attractiveness to the scene. Our guide
knowing well the charming scenery which held
us now with such an interest would soon be lost
in the shadows of the setting sun, urged upon us
to take our leave while the scenery still held a
most roseate hue, and its novel picturesqueness
was most vividly impressed on the mind. Having
spent a long and most interesting day we deemed
it prudent to take his advice, and took our fare-
well view of this part of the beautiful lake, while
all seemed a picture of romantic loveliness.

CHAPTER XXII.

SECOND DAY ON THE LAKES.

I will go where Killarney

Is sleepiog in peaceful rest,

Unmoved, save when a fallen leaf
Ripples its placid breast.

HAVING thoroughly rested and dreamed over
our first day's trip around the lakes, we
started out again, this time to explore the lower
lake. Leaving our hotel we take the little side car
in waiting, and proceed by the Kenmare road, our
driver landing us at Eoss Castle. It is situated on
Ross island, the largest of the islands on the
lakes. This massive old ruin, much of which is
uninjured by time, was formerly the stronghold
of the great O'Donoghue's family, the enchanted
man of the lakes of which the legends are almost
innumerable. Before the surrender of the castle
he leaped from one of the windows, and it is sup-
posed when the great chieftain left the regions of
earth he took up his permanent abode at the bot-
tom of the lake where he happily dwells. It is
said the castle was surrendered through super-
stition, there being an ^ancient prophecy to this
effect, that the castle would be impregnable until
it should be surrounded by ships. One day, per-
ceiving several boats on the lake, they became
intimidated, thinking the prophecy was being

152SECOND DAY ON THE LAKES.

153

fulfilled and surrendered. The castle is a large
building of wonderful structure, and must have
possessed considerable strength in former years.
It now forms one of the chief attractions on the
lower lake, its picturesque ivy-clad walls being
visible from many points. Under this everlasting
battlement one will find themselves standing and
looking upward in silent amazement. We climbed
the spiral stone stair steps in the interior to the
height of a hundred and fifty feet, which brought
us to the top of the tower, the walls of which are
of such massive thickness it allows for a walk
around the tower; the minarets on the outside of
the wall standing above the walk afford support
in case one feels dizzy. "We picked our way care-
fully around this prodigious old fortress, where
the walls are rent in many places by the storms
of ages, which makes them somewhat dangerous.
Standing on the top of those old crumbling walls
we obtained an exquisite view of the surrounding
scenery, which embraces the charming lower lake.
Looking down and over that magnificent stretch
of scenery where the bullets had sped on their
mission of death, dyeing that green turf with a
crimson tide, we are lost in wonderment. And
as we view that green sward and placid waters
which once held such a carnage, our minds drift
to those heroic men inside of this old castle bat-
tling under hard privations, and we ponder over
in our minds how their hearts must have beat154

A TRIP TO IRELAND.

with a death-like pulsation when they heard the
deep, measured tread of their foes winding slowly
but surely up those old stairs; but alas ! all hope
had fled, they felt they were surrounded by the
enemy, and with the anguish of defeat depicted on
every brow they hear the voice of their enemies
with authority proclaiming:

"In the Queen's name surrender,

We are here to defend her."

With the fast failing breath at the portals of
death they thought it but folly to resist. But
there are hearts that will ever cherish in their
memory that proud old castle on Ross Island, and
it will hold its illustrous sway until the elements
of whirlwinds have swept that famous tower out
of existence, and each gray-headed .sire will the
story repeat to his children with emotion, how
the glorious patriot fell. But its glow of power
and pride is fast crumbling into dust. After
descending to terra firma, we proceeded to the
water's edge called Eoss Castle's pier, where our
boatman awaited us, who was to be our guide for
the rest of the day in rowing us across the lower
lake and showing us its many islands. He proved
to be as valuable in information, and to possess
equally as charming abilities at story-relating as
our car driver. Seating ourselves in the little
boat we swept out on the bosom of the lower
lake. This lake is seven miles long and four
broad, over which there are scattered upwards ofSECOND DAY ON THE LAKES.	155

thirty islands of various sizes and forms. Some are
covered with luxuriant shrubbery while others are
made up of mere rocks. Being limestone, they are
very white, and with age and the action of the
elements they are rendered in many fantastical
shapes. Our guide pointed out all of them of
note, giving their name and history as we camp
to them. Sometimes, first, he would ask us what
we thought they resembled or looked like, before
he would tell us, to see how near our ideas would
correspond to the object in view, as for instance
when we came near O'Donoghue's library, which
consisted of slabs of rock, in a tumbled down
fashion, we thought they resembled crackers, no j
then bunches of shingles was the next guess, but
no nearer being right. Our guide laughed and
said, "do you not think they resemble a library of
books tumbled down?" Why yes, how plainly we
can see it now. And so it was in every instance,
after being told we could form the resemblance
in our own mind, and as we came to them in turn
they were pointed out; here was the chieftain's
old " Gray Horse," his " Stables," his " Man-
sion," and his u Prison." The prison was so
situated there was no escape, without the
risk of being drowned. So lonely it stood
surrounded by the dark waters of the lake.
Mouse Island is the smallest on the lake, and
abounds with white mice. Rabbit Island is next
smallest in size. The charm of this little island156

A TRIP TO IRELAND.

is more enhanced by its being inhabited by a rare
and beautiful species of rabbit. In passing
through this lake, it presents a more beautiful
and picturesque scenery than can be seen from
its banks, luring you on in pursuit of its many
attractions of interest. The air is so soft and
balmy, everything around seems like a peaceful
slumber, so contrasting to the wild, romantic
scenery of yesterday. We had felt almost like
expressing a feeling of disappointment, but soon,
however, our impression greatly changed as we
viewed those noble mountains in the background,
this fine expanse of water with the contrasting
verdure of her many islands, and we began to
think the soft beauty of the Lower lake set off the
wild grandeur of the Upper and Middle lakes,
rendering an agreeable effect of transition
from wild to soft scenery. We continue
our course across the lake to the island of Innis-
fallen, the most beautiful besides the most inter-
esting of all its comrades, so famed in history
and renowned in song. Our boat having been
moored to shore, we stepped out on this lovely
island, where sublimity seemed to reign in every-
thing.

We now steered our course toward the Tornies
mountains. The grandeur of those lofty peaks is
almost incredible, and as you cruise along in your
tiny boat, gazing with rapt admiration at those
towering peaks, you catch a glimpse of some ofSECOND DAY" ON THE LAKES.

157

those lovely cataracts that are rushing from their
dark solitude, tumbling ana foaming down those
everlasting mountains, leaping into the bosom of
the lakes, where all the majesty of their terror and
^beauty are lost in the placid waters of the lake.
Nothing will compare in scenery for sublime and
mysterious beauty with one of those waterfalls. On
we proceed in our little boat, now and then catch-
ing the sound of the rushing water as we cruise
along the base of the Tomies mountains. Passing
what they call the " Minister Back," a large rock
in the shape of a human being in a stooped posi-
tion." The story is thus told, that the devil was
chasing the minister down the mountain side and
he overtook him right there, and the minister
stooped and the devil passed over him ; but the
minister was unable to move after, and there he
has remained in that position ever since. We now
reach the point, the nearest we could get to O'Sul-
livan's waterfall. Landing, we followed a narrow
path leading around a curve which brought us in
full view of this lovely cascade. Here it came
sparkling and foaming, rushing down into the
lake with a roar that reverberated in a deep-toned
anthem. This cascade is situated at the foot of
the Tomies, a mountain two thousand four hun-
dred feet high, and is considered by many to be
superior in beauty to all the others.

There is a legend that O'Sullivan's Cascade was
the work of a thunderbolt which swept all the158

A TRIP TO IRELAND.

earth away down to the rock. There are three
successive falls. The first drops perpendicular
from a height of twenty feet into a basin, from
which, rushing between two overhanging rocks,
it makes its way over the second precipice into
another basin, when it plunges over the last de-
scent and rushes on to the lake, sending up a
shower of misty spray, which falls among mossy
stones and entangled vegetation. There is a path
leading up on one side, though very hard to as-
cend. But by holding on to limbs and catching
branches which came in our way we managed to
climb up some fifteen or twenty feet high. The
full height of the cascade being seventy feet, we
had not time to ascend to the top, though we
were informed by our guide there was a fine rest-
ing place called O'Sullivan's Grotto. Under a pro-
jecting rock covered with foliage is a cave where
there is a seat to rest on. We thought it was not
worth while to go so far for a seat, and concluded
we could not gain a much more magnificent view
than where we were. One can have no adequate
conception of one of these tremendous water-falls
or cascades such as the Derrycunihy, Tore and
O'Sullivan's until they have seen them in all their
wild grandeur, rushing, plunging and tearing
down the sides of the mountains over rocks into
descents, dashing on in their fury hundreds of
feet or more until they reach the lakes, there to
yest as it were with its calm and peaceful waters*SECOND DAY ON THE LAKES.

159

Descending the rugged pathway we again take
our boat. Our guide interested us by awakening
those beautiful echoes which are produced by
sounding a bugle, and he also whistled a tune, and
as it reverberated from the surrounding moun-
tains in soft melodies until it finally died away to
a whisper, it seemed enchanting. We steered our
course to Glena Bay. This is considered one of
of the gems of the lakes. The Earl of Kenmare
has a nice cottage here for visitors to lunch in.
We now row again to Ross Island, where we
landed and conclude the day with a ramble
through the pleasure grounds of Lord Kenmare's
estate, which are generously thrown open to vis-
itors. This demesne extends along the eastern
shore of the Lower Lake, and consists of one
thousand, five hundred acres. You have a splen-
did view of Lord Kenmare's Castle from the Lower
Lake. It is a very imposing structure, built of
brick. Through this park, which slopes from
Lord Kenmare's Castle towards the lower lake,
is a great variety of scenery and many objects
of interest.

" Sweet Innisfalien! weird, enchanted ground,

Where Naiad or the huntress-queen might dwell
Lying entranced by Reho's wandering spell,
And dream of musio in the calm profound.

Hark ! how 'tis stealing o'er the lake around,

As if the dark-blue waters sighed farewell
To wooded mountain, haunted glade and dell,
And Elfiend voices murmured back the sound.160

A. TRIP TO IRELAND.

O listen ! even as fragrant odors creep
From leaf and flower, and thence are gently driven,
Stirring the still air in her summer sleep
So, tones like these to the rapt soul are given
And interfused on quietude so deep,

A word would break the spell, the charmed trance
of heaven.

And as we wind our way through this earthly-
paradise we no longer wonder that the holy monks
of old should select this sunny spot for their abode;
here removed, as it were, from the many conflicts
that embitter life, they could abide in peace and
happiness and dwell amidst the sweet perfume of
gentle flowers and spicy groves, where sweet
strains are borne on every passing breeze from the
ever-murmuring rivulets. And this is Innisfallen,
the beautiful isle of which the bard never tired of
singing its praises, and, with the impulse of the
moment, we felt a keener sense of admiration for
our surroundings.

lnnisfallen was first discovered by the Druids.
History relates that the Druids, or arch-priests of
the pagan religion among the fire-worshipers,
predicted that the son of the Chief Gadelins
should discover an island very far in the western
sea, and that that island must be their destiny—
either to be their home or thein grave, and there-
fore, in their own language, they called it " Innis-
fail," the " Island of Destiny." They set out in
search of it, and they found it was the dream of
their days. Moore thus describes their landing:Old Weir Bridge—Killarney.SECOND DAY ON THE LAKES.	161

•' They came from a land beyond the sea,

And now o'er the western main

Set sail in their good ships gallantly
From the sunny land of Spain.

Oh 1 where is the isle we've seen in dreams,
Our distant home or grave ?

Thus sung they as, by the morning beams,

They sweep o'er the Atlantic's wave.

Lo ! where far o'er the ocean shines

A speck of radiant green.
****** * * * #

'Tis Innisfail, 'tis Innisfail,

Rising o'er the silvery sea,

While sending to heaven the warrior's hail
The home of the brave and the free."

The island of Innisfallen contains about twenty-
one acres of rich, fertile soil. Although it seems
like one thick mass of foliage at a distance, the
interior is broken up in a great variety of scenery,
thickets, dells, lawns and hills, with winding
streams which reflect the sun's golden beams
with radian^ splendor.

And as we traverse on our way over this en-
chanted island nothing breaks the stillness but
the twittering of the little birds among the
branches of the trees. At last we arrived at the
ruins of an old abbey, u Innisfallen Abbey," cele-
brated as the scene of the twilight marriage of
the Lady Ellen McCarthy with Florence Reagh.
This abbey is supposed to have been founded by
St. Finan, in the sixth century. The ruins lie
scatter^ hero md these, over which vegetation is162

A TRIP TO IRELAND.

fast creeping. The celebrated Annals of Innis-
falien were composed here by monks. This work
is among the earliest records of Irish history.
The original manuscript was preserved for several
centuries in the Abbey of Innisfallen. There are
now several copies of the work in existence, one
of which is in thelibrary of Trinity college, Dub-
lin. It contains a history of the world down to
the arrival of St. Patrick in Ireland, in the year
four hundred and thirty-two, and from that
period it is a history of Ireland down to thirteen
hundred and twenty. The original manuscript
was written on parchment and contained fifty-
seven quarto leaves, and is said to be in the
" Bodelin library."

Following our guide we approached the tomb
of St. Finan. Under a large ash tree which marks
this spot rests the ashes of St. Fipan, the founder
of Innisfallen Abbey.

And from this tomb nature has seemingly mani-
fested one of her most wonderful works in rearing
this majestic monument to mark this hallowed
spot; erecting as it were a memorial that implores
a passing tribute to the dead. And from this
unlettered muse, fame and elegy would supply.
On bended knees we stooped to see that tomb
beneath that aged tree which wreaths its old fan-
tastic roots so high, and which sustains the body
as if standing upon so many huge legs, and grasp-
ing, as it were, in go many great talons those oldSECOND DAY ON THE LAKES.

163

roots has raised the stone which rested over the
tomb, holding it fast in its strong clutches, some
twelve or fifteen inches above the tomb. The
sides of the tomb were very visible; those old
rugged roots spreading around it on all sides act-
ing as a guardian have protected it from storms
and injury for ages. From here we traversed our
steps finding rare and remarkable scenery on this
beautiful island. Some of the trees have attained
an enormous size. One holly, supposed to be the
largest in existence, measuring fifteen feet in cir-
cumference, is among the wonders of this place.
There is another tree that is a combination of
holly, ash, hawthorn and ivy, which are so united
as to present the appearance of having one body,
but the variety of foliage discloses the secret,
sending forth its own peculiar marks of nature.
After reconnoitering awhile through the little dells
picking pebbles from the small winding streams,
we slowly retraced our steps to where we had left
our boat, fairly reluctant to leave this enchanting
place. Moore's praises of this lovely islaijd are so
emblematic of one's feelings on viewing that fairy
isle for the first time, I think one verse will not
come amiss right here :

" Sweet Innisfalien long shall dwell
In memory's dream that sunny smile
Which o'er thee on that evening fell
When first I saw thy fairy isle.'

- There are pleasant little summer houses here164:

A TRIP TO IRELAND.

and there, and seats in various places where one
can sit and muse on the beautiful surroundings.
You could spend days in this beautiful park and
not tire, for there is nothing monotonous in any of
the many walks that lead through this pleasure
ground of Lord Kenmare's. One peculiar fea-
ture, though notless attractive, were little gardens
of choice shrubbery, such as rare flowers and
ornamental bushes inclosed with artistically
wrought rustic fences, which were certainly
attractive, with their exquisite little wicker gates
made of twigs of osiers, the style engendering
such exquisite workmanship, which was also
shown in the-build of the summer houses. There
is an old Druidical ruin on this demesne. It is
called Clough-na-Cudda, or stone of Cudda. It
is surrounded by a circle of trees of great size.
On the surface of this stone there are two hol-
lows which hold water. The sick visit this stone
inspired with the hope of being cured, as it is con-
sidered a holy relic. As we near the outskirts of
this lovely park we take our leave, feeling amply
rewarded for our second day's tour on the Lakes
of Killarney; we bid them a final farewell, satis-
fied that our guides each day had expatiated on
the history of the O'Sullivans, McCarthys and
the O'Donoghues to the best of their ability. I
must say that much is gained by the visitors to
all those noted places by securing an intelligent
and trusty guide. They are always to be foun4SECOND DAY ON THE LAKES.

165

and are perfectly acquainted with every noted
place on the lakes and surrounding country and
their minds are filled with lore regarding the
legends and history of those places. They will
take what you feel disposed to give them for
their services, but will accept nothing less than
five shillings a day— one dollar and a quarter
American money. It pays, however, in the end,
as the stranger would gain nothing of a histor-
ical nature from just viewing those places with-
out a guide. I will close this chapter with the
legend of the sunken Castle of Killarney:

There is a small island, very rocky, which is
believed by the tenantry to represent the top of
the highest tower of the castle which sank under
a spell to the bottom of the lake. In certain
states of the atmosphere the island appears to rise
some feet from the walls. Its rocks assume the
appearance of masonry, and the whole presents
very much the effect of battlements of a castle
rising above the surface of the lake. It is believed
that the great Earl of Desmond lives to this time
enchanted at the bottom of the lake, occupying
the castle with his family. There was not in his
day so accomplished a magician as he. His
beautiful castle stood on an island in the lake,
and to this he brought his fair young bride, who
prevailed upon his folly to risk all to gratify her
imperious caprice. They had not been long in
this castle when she one day went into the cham-166

A TKIP TO IRELAND.

ber in which her husband studied his art and im-
plored him to exhibit before her some of the
wonders of magic. He resisted long, but at last
his wife prevailed on him. But before beginning
he explained to her the awful conditions and
dangers of the experiment. Alone in this apart-
ment, the walls of which were lapped far below
by the lake, she must witness a series of frightful
exhibitions, which, once commenced, he could not
stop for some time, and if she spoke one word or
uttered one exclamation the castle and all it
contained would instantly sink to the bottom of
the lake there to remain under a spell for ages.

The curiosity of the lady having prevailed, and
the doors of the study being locked and barred,
the fatal experiment commenced. Muttering a
spell as he stood before her, feathers sprouted
thickly over him, his face became contracted and
hooked, a cadevarous smell filled the air, and with
heavy wings a gigantic vulture rose in his stead
and swept around the room. The lady com-
manded herself through this trial, then instantly
another began. The bird alighted near the door,
and in less than a minute changed into a horribly
deformed hag who swung herself upon crutches
toward" the lady, her mouth foaming with fury
and contortions, becoming more hideous every
moment, until she rolled on the floor in a terrible
convulsion at the lady's feet, and then changing
into a huge serpent, which came sweeping towardsSECOND DAY ON THE LAKES.	167

her with crest erect and quivering tongue. Sud-
denly, as it seemed on the point of darting at her,
she saw her husband in its head standing pale
before her with his finger on his lip denoting the
continued necessity of silence. He then put him-
self at his length on the floor and began to stretch
himself out longer and longer, until his head
nearly reached to one end of the room and his
feet to the other. Then horror came over her.
The ill-starred lady uttered a wild scream, where-
upon the castle and all that was within sank in a
moment to the bottom of the lake. But once in
seven years by night the Earl of Desmond and
his retinue emerge and cross the lake in a shadowy
cavalcade. His white horse is shod with silver,
and it behooves hitfi to make good use of his time,
for until the silver shoes of his steed are worn
through the spell that holds him and his below the
lake will retain its power. Killarney seems to
hold quite a habitation under her lakes, according
to her legendary stories. Though fabulous they
hold a part in interesting the visitor who is search-
ing for lore in the romantic scenery on the Lakes
of Killarney. Taking the evening train we soon
leave Killarney in the distance, with those tower-
ing mountains, where the purple tints of morning
and the golden rays of evening tip them with a
radiant hue, all receding from view. But we
carry with us the fond memory of the many
pleasures and delights to be found in visiting the
Lakes of Killarney.CHAPTER XXIII.

ADIEU TO MALLOW.

" Like as a plank of driftwood,

Tossed on the watery main;

Another plank encounters,

Meets, touches, parts again;

Thus it is with us forever,

On life's unresting sea,

We meet, and greet, and sever,

Drifting eternally."

YES, we will always find it thus, through this
life, we are constantly seeking changes, ever
on the move, tossing about hither and thither,
here and there, looking for something new to
satisfy our restless nature, continually forming
new acquaintances, and often awakening a warm
friendship with those we encounter in our travels,
" just to meet, and greet, and sever," on " life's
unresting sea," in some respects like the plank of
drift wood, perhaps never to meet again. But
not deadxlike it, to sensibility. „ Though we drift
apart forever, still around our hearts will cling the
memory of those meetings and greetings, and
through the journey of life we love to ponder
over those scenes of mirth and gladness and keep
them fresh just as long as we can, as we would a
bouquet of rare and beautiful flowers given us
by loving hands, and we press them around

our hearts as we would press those lovely

168ADIEU TO MALLOW.

169

flowers, that we might retain them forever. "We
made many friends while visiting in Ireland,
and especially around Mallow, as that was our
home and resting place, while sojourning in
Ireland, and we will ever cherish them in our
memory. Though we have drifted far from those
pleasant scenes, often in reviewing the past they
shine forth like a bright unchanging star, pre-
eminent in lustre. In musing over those bygone
days my mind carries me back not only to those
scenes of the country but many pleasing incidents
Xhat transpired, which made me note the par-
ticular character of the unartful peasant. I will
relate a couple of amusing incidents which I recall
to mind, to show the marked simplicity of some
of the country people, and also revealing the fact
to me, that not all could have visited that cele-
brated " Blarney Stone."

I was never endowed with much beauty, there-
fore never looked for any compliments to that
effect, but must say, I was quite overcome with
the graceful manner in which I was complimented
bv a peasant woman, for my plain features.

"Soon after our arrival in Ireland, as we were
returning from services one sabbath, J. stopped to
converse with an old acquaintance of former years,
mother L. and I passed on our way; soon we were
met by a couple of country women who had
singled me out. Approaching they good naturedly
greeted us by saluting mother L. with, " how do170

A TEIP TO IRELAND.

you do, Mrs. L. and that is your son from America,
come home to see ye, and this is his wife," extend-
ing their hands without waiting for any prelimi-
nary introduction from mother L. They gave me a
warm welcome to their country, one of them
wishing us all the pleasure and good luck on our
trip that she could think of, while the other turned
to mother L. congratulating her on her happiness
on seeing her son and his wife, winding up her
remarks with, "and a fine homely little woman she
is," I was delighted with the easy manner in which
she expounded on my good looks, without flatter-
ing me in the least, and assuring me there was
one native of the green isle who had not kissed
the blarney stone, or if so, it had not affected her
honest nature. Another incident happened which
marked the sweet innocence of a little girl of the
neighborhood. She was passing one evening, and
we had heard tEat there had been a christening at
her home, so we told one of the girls to ask what
they had named the baby. Straightening herself up
with a twinkling smile playing around her features,
she quickly responded, u doye'es think I am going
to tell ye our little Patsy's name," and almost with
the same breath she exclaimed. "Och, but did'nt
it slip from me though." It caused a merry laugh
to think how innocently the child had told little
Patsy's name, which she was but withholding to
tease the little girl who had put the question.
With her finger pressed to her lip denoting theADIEU TO MALLOW.

171

sorrow she felt for those tell-tale words they had
so unguardingly disclosed, and those innocent eyes
cast down she went on her way. Another thing
the American will soon observe is, that it is nearly
as hard for them to understand our dialect, as for
us to understand theirs. I often noticed they
showed something of the same embarrassment in
trying to catch the sound of my words that I
exhibited myself in trying to understand the
meaning of theirs. But when they wish you to
repeat your words, they always say, "I beg your
pardon" before asking, through a courtesy and that
you may take no offence. Where they think those
words are rightly understood, they just simply
say, "I beg your pardon," whiclrmeans, they have
not clearly understood what you were saying, and
you will oblige them by repeating it. I became
quite familiar with the custom before leaving that
country, but nevertheless I felt a little humbled
on the point of articulation, however, I got through
very well, and was complimented many times on
my articulating.quite plainly for a Yankee, so I
presume by that they had met worse. The next
day after our return to Mallow, from the Lakes
of Killarney, we began preparing to visit the city
of Cork; we wished to spend a few days there
before our return to America.

After paying our respects to friends in Mallow
we made a farewell visit out to the farm, retrac-
ing our steps to some of those old familiar spots,

*172	A TRIP TO IRELAND.

where we could but linger, drinking in the full
loveliness of the scene.

" And midst the heather on the hills,

The golden mist of mountain rills,

We caught the balm the rose distils,

We loitered where the blue bells' blow;
We listened to the fountain flow,

And song of mavis sweet and low."

Returning to Mallow, we' finished packing our
trunks, which were all ready with the exception
of our little treasures we had gathered from time
to time, to keep as lasting mementoes of our trip
to " ould Ireland where the grass grows green,"
and we bade a final adieu to Mallow.

CHAPTER XXIV

the city of cork.

'' Scenes that are cherished fond and true,

While the heart's tablets last,

When time sped like a fairy spell;

Bright record of the past.

O, tell me, are there any scenes

That our heart-throbs can tell,

Round which does not fond memory cling,
So lovingly and well ?"

Leaving Mallow on the eleven o'clock a. m. train
for the city of Cork, we arrived there at twelve
o'clock, the distance being twenty-one miles
from Mallow. The weather was exceedingly fine,
which lent a charm to the exquisite scenery along
the' route and partially made up for what we
had left behind us. We put up at the Munster
Hotel. After dinner we started out to see some
of the great metropolis. Going first up to Mer-
chant Quay, to the office of the " Inman Line,"
we procured our passage on the S. S. Baltic,
which was to sail from Queenstown in a couple of
days for New York. Having finished our busi-
ness at the " Inman Line " office, we proceeded on
our way to Patrick street. This is one of the
finest streets in the city. It is one dazzling glit-
ter of beauty and splendor. The most magnificent
display of chinaware was to be seen ou this street.m

A TRIP TO IRELAND.

We visited several of the silk establishments,
among which was the "Munster Arcade." This
is the largest silk establishment on Patrick street.
Every desired shade in color or quality could be
procured here. The large, spacious store-rooms
were a lovely sight to see, with silk goods hang-
ing everywhere in rich display. On this street is
also "Newsom's Cafe de Paris,one of the
largest grocery houses and the most extensive cof-
fee house in Cork city. Here we witnessed the pro-
cess of roasting and grinding coffee by steam, and
packing it m canisters for market. This estab-
lishment does an immense trade in the coffee line,
shipping to ail parts of Ireland. "We had to
talk at the top of our voices in order to be heard
above the noise of the little engines that were
roasting, grinding and packing the coffee, and the
bustle of the many employes, that were engaged
in handling it and labeling it for market. It is
put in air-tight canisters and- the process is so
rapidly done it cannot lose any of its strength.
It is called "Cafe de Paris," "a cup of coffee in
perfection." They claim the " Cafe de Paris,"
if made according to directions, will produce the
same flavor as the " Cafe au lait of Paris." I
cannot vouch as to that, for I never had the
pleasure of drinking a cup of coffee in Paris, but
I can say for a fact that Newsom's "Cafe de
Paris" is an excellent beverage, having used it
(luring our stay in Ireland. We had the pleasureTHE CITY OF CORK.

175

of meeting an old friend and schoolmate of J.'s as
head clerk in this place of business, which was an
agreeable surprise. After leaving the " Cafe de
Paris/' we went to see the " Queen's Crystal
Palace," and the " Queen's Old Castle," two mag-
nificent buildings. Here we found the largest
display of silverware and rich jewelry we had
seen since leaving New York City. We next find
ourselves on " Grand Parade." The center of
attraction on this street was the great display of
European style. It seemed to be the promenade
of the elite and the great emporium of fashion.
It was literally thronged with people and I
thought it might well be called " Grand Parade."

In our ramble through the city we came to the
court house. It is a large stone edifice, with
massive pillars of granite. After viewing the
exterior we went in to have a look at the interior,
which would be something new to me. I had read
descriptions and seen pictures representing the
scenes of the court room, the old judge and bar-
risters, and counsellors, of the old country style,
but curiosity prompted me with the desire to see
the real. So ascending the broad steps that were
in a half circle we entered the hall, which is in
a circle around on the first floor, there being
rooms in the center which I suppose were office
rooms as I seen the barristers going, in out of
them to the court room. After promenading
ground the ball, we notiged there was consider-176

A TRIP TO IRELAND.

able excitement among the barristers who were
grouped here and there in conversation. Upon
making inquiry of a policeman stationed in the
hall, we were informed there was a lawsuit going
on, and that court was in session above. That just
suited my desire. I could now behold the whole
scene of judge, counsellors, and criminal and
witnesses, which was, to say the least, quite an
exciting feature to me. There were policemen
stationed at different places throughout the court
house, one of whom directed which stairs to take,
another showed us up, while a third seated us.
The seats are in a semi-circle and raised one above
the other. And at last we were seated in the
midst of an old country court scene, viewing the
quaint style of the old judge, as he sat there in
great dignity with his white wig all curled up on
top of his head, and a long braid at the back tied
with a jribbon, and I admit I was somewhat di-
verted with the real picture before me. The
barristers were all seated in a row befor desks,
they wore gray wigs in puffs on top of their heads
and a braid at the back. They were all dressed
alike, in high collars, white ties, long coats, with
deep capes and flowing sleeves, short knee
breeches, long stockings and buckled shoes* I
thought they looked very nice. We listened to
them talk for awhile, but not understanding the
case we were not very much interested though
it seemingly held quite m interest for many asTHE CITY OF CORK.	177

the court room was well filled. It being very
warm we adjourned thinking we might find
something that would interest us better, and the
outer air was far the most inviting. The evening
was finished by viewing a regatta on the river
Lee, which runs through the city of Cork. Each
side of the river the whole distance the race was
run was thronged with spectators whose excite-
ment ran high. At night there was a grand dis-
play of fireworks and military parade with
several bands of music which we viewed from the
veranda of our hotel.

The city of Cork affords many points of interest
to the tourist. There could be no finer site for
an extensive industry than Passage in Cork. It
is not only beautiful for situation, but its position
on the river marks it out as the great trade center
of the Lee, with its long ranges of mercantile
buildings, its pretty terraces, its frequently arriv-
ing trains, and services of steamers, up and down
the river, calling at ports across the broad waters
make it very lively, and it ought to be one of the
. greatest seaports in the world.

But if it never arrives to that, it is certain that
Passage leading into Cork city is a most impos-
ing spot. Cork forms one of the three military
districts into which Ireland is divided, the others
being Dublin and Belfast. Merchant's Quay is
the terminus of the Dublin and Cork railroad.
Before reaching Cork City it runs through a tun-178

A TRIP TO IRELAND.

nel one mile in length under Barrick hill, on top
of which is situated the military Barracks. The
line is a double track making a very wide and
spacious tunnel, which is not altogether left in
total darkness, as I noticed when we passed
through there was now and then the glimmer of
a lantern.

Cork has extensive quarries of red rock, which
is called the red marble of Cork. It is extremely
hard and takes an excellent polish which makes it
very fine for building purooses, as it is very beau-
tiful to look at.

Magnesia is also manufactured from it which
makes it quite an industry.

CHAPTER XXV.

cork city.

" When Time, who steals our years away,

Shall steal our pleasures too,

The memory of the past will stay
And half our joys renew."

Moore.

After a night of refreshing repose, we were
ready to resume our travels of Cork City, our
minds exultant with the pleasures we had seen the
previous day, and bright with the anticipation of
what we would find to-day, to enrich the scenes of
yesterday. And we were not doomed to any dis-
appointment, as it was a day we can long remem-
ber with pleasure. Making our toilets and
breakfasting, we started forth, anxious to make
good use of our time, as it was to be our last day
in the city of Cork. The morning was fine, we
strolled out on one of the magnificent bridges that
spans the river Lee, to see the many beautiful
boats that dotted the river. Some were coming
in, others going out, while others were anchored
near shore delivering their cargo. We enjoyed it
very much as we had not seen so many steamers
since we left New York harbor. "We next made
our way to the "Coal Quay," so renowned for its
great centre of traffic in Cork. It is a tremendous
building, with every conceivable or imaginable

179180

A TRIP TO IRELAND.

thing for sale that , one could think of, and old
women and young women by the dozen clattering
out their different articles for sale. It was fun
going in, but quite a hard matter getting out, as
you were expected to patronize every stall you
came to, which of course we could not very well
do, as we did not wish to bankrupt ourselves so
far away from home.

I have seen Killarney,

And have been to Blarney,

But for all wonders, there is no place like the Coal Quay of
Cork

That is an old saying of Father Prout's, I believe,
and conteys considerable reasoning in it, as one
will find after visiting this wonderful ^place of
traffic, with its clamor and confusion of noise.

Leaving the Coal Quay, we crossed over to
the u Market," another building of large dimen-
sions and remarkably attractive in its display of
fruits and vegetables and meats; they were all to be
seen here placed in as tempting a manner as pos-
sible. In the centre of the room was a large
fountain throwing up water in a white foam for
several feet high, it falling in a spray into a
large marble basin encircling the fountain. There
were many counters which were loaded with a
great variety of fruits and baskets of the smaller
vegetables, while the larger ones were placed
around the base of the fountain on the floor,
which was a paved floor and scrupulously .clean.
The vegetables were all cleaned and looked soCORK CITY.

181

fresh and appetizing, kept so by the cool mist that
was continually falling. In another department
there was a variety of meats, presented in the
most tempting style to induce the epicure to buy.
Our curiosity being satisfied at this great Euro-
pean market, we proceeded on our way, stopping
only long enough to get our dinner at a restau-
rant. We visited several churches during our tour
through the city, but will only give particular
mention of one. The reader may wonder why
we should so interest ourselves in visiting so many
churches, chapels, convents,, etc., in our tour.
Well, the answer is simply this, to see the won-
derful works of architecture displayed in the con-
struction of these buildings and learn the age and
history of many of them, which is very remark-
able in a number we visited. There is generally
a sexton or some one around who can inform you
on the age and history of those places of worship.
The principal one of which I shall make mention
is "Shandon Church," which contains the chime
of bells celebrated by Father Prout in his poem
called u The Bells of Shandon," of which I will
insert one stanza, as it is so highly extolled :

" With deep affection, and fond recollection,

I often think of those Shandon bells,

Whose sounds so wild would, in days of childhood,

Fling round my cradle their magic spell.

On this I ponder where'er I wander,

And then grow fonder sweet Cork of thee,

With thy bells of Shandon, that sound so grand oil
The pleasant waters of the river Lee."182

A TRIP TO IRELAND.

It is delightful to listen to the chiming of those
bells ; they play a great many sweet tunes. We
had-the pleasure of listening to them the last even-
ing we spent in the city of Cork. They are
chimed for one hour on so many evenings during
the week. The Shandon' church and the cathe-
dral of St. Fionn Barre are situated in what is
called the oldest part of the city, the elevation
being several hundred feet above the level of the
sea. In passing through the streets in this part of
the city you can cast your eyes upward and see
the splendid mansions and residences, while on
another street below you you look down on the
tops of the buildings, the rise of ground is so
great. There are many streets leading to this
part of the city. We went up the one called
Mallow lane, it being the nearest way to the
Shandon church, there being steps at intervals as
you ascend. Arriving at the church we found it
closed. We then called at the sexton-house and
informed him of our desire to see the interior of
the church, whereupon he obligingly got the keys
and we proceeded. As we passed through the
gate which led from his residence to the enclosure
around the church he called our attention to the
graveyard. The ground rises gradually to the side
entrance of the church and the tombs are in a
regular row from this gate to the side entrance of
the church, and the large flat stones which cover
these tombs serve as steps going up to the church.COKK CITY.

183

As we wended our way up this flight of steps made
of tombstones we tried to trace out the inscrip-
tions on them. We found a number dated as far
back as 1700, and some of the dates were so
obliterated by time we could not make them out.
, During the summer of 1740 there was a terri-
ble famine, and owing to the scarcity of food
great numbers of the people perished, and it is
said there were several hundred buried at that
time in Shandon church-yard. We noticed the
graves were very close together and the tomb-
stones all rest flatly over the tombs, none being
placed upright. Proceeding on our way up this
strange walk, we arrived at the side entrance of
the church, but before entering we were shown
the way leading down under the church, to a
place that might well be called a large sepulchre,
it was so filled with the dead. Candles were used
in lighting the way to this dark, dismal-looking
place, completely filled with tombs, there being
only narrow passageways leading through.

It would hardly be wondered at if one would
imagine they saw spectres in such a gloomy place.
Following our guide, the sexton, we were next
shown the interior of the church, which really
seemed to strike us with a greater of awe than the
exterior had. The walls of this church are seven
or eight feet thick, and between the windows it
is filled with the dead. The tombstones being
placed in the wall perpendicularly, you can walk184

A TRIP TO IRELAND.

down the aisle on either side of the church and
read the inscriptions.

How very strange it seemed to thus see the
people so living, as it were, among the dead, sur-
rounded b}r their monuments, around the church,
under the church, and the very walls full of
tombs, teaching more visibly than any other
method could the true end of man. And as we
loitered through this old church a mournful ca-
dence seemed whispering through the long drawn
aisle, gone from the earth forever, and the voice
of time points its cold finger to the tombs, where
hope, joy and love all lie buried and all that
beauty or wealth e'er gave await alike the in-
evitable hour, and all the paths of glory lead
but to the grave to arise with the dawn of the
glorious resurrection morn. Oar attention was
also drawn to a very ancient baptismal fount,
which stood near the front entrance inside of the
church. It had once been Temarkable for its
beauty, but time had also placed its mark on it
and defaced it in many places. But still it will
hold its attraction for its venerable age. We
could only trace a few words on • it, in which we
learned it was dedicated to St. Anne. We also
traced the figures 1600, which we thought must
be the date of it.

After leaving this ancient church and sepulchre,
we went to see the great butter market, which is
up in this part of the city and but a short distanceCORK CITY.

185

from the Shandon church. It is a large stone
si ructure built round like a pavilion. There is a
porch encircling the entire building which is sup-
ported with massive pillars, and broad stone steps
encircle this magnificent porch. There are a num-
ber of entrances leading in from the porch, which
makes it convenient entering from any point.
This is the great butter market of Cork, and does
an immense business in buying and shipping but-
ter. Leaving this great butter traffic, we called
on a friend who lived in this locality, which proved
very beneficial to us, as she kindly offered her
services to act as a guide in conducting us to va-
rious places of interest, thereby enabling us to see
many interesting points we should hardly have
found by ourselves. She was very agreeable and
entertaining and proved quite an acquisition in
guiding us through a portion of the city that would
have possessed but little remarkable interest
to a stranger without a guide to show and
draw their attention to its many curious and
ancient relics. This being a. very old part
of the city it presents many very antiquated
monuments of time. And following our guide as
she conducted the way we found it very interest-
ing. Ireland is a country renowned for its many
holy relics of antiquity, among which its wells,
being blessed by saints ages ago, are consid-
ered holy. They are to be found in many parts
of Ireland, and their history and miraculous cures186

A TRIP TO IRELAND.

make them quite interesting to the tourist. In
our tour through this part of Cork city we visited
one called the "Sunday Well" which is remark-
ably well preserved. The stone curb around this
well is very artistically carved and bore an in-
scription on it dated the year 1600. There is a
chapel near this well called the Sunday Well
Chapel, which is very interesting in its beautiful
construction.

In passing through this part of the city we saw
many very fine residences, with lovely gardens of
rich and rare flowers. The taste for the culture of
flowers in Ireland seemed to predominate, as you'
would see them wherever there was room for a
garden, and if there was no garden plot you
would see pot plants placed in the windows. Even
in some of the low dwellings I often observed a
pot of lovely geraniums blooming in the windows?
showing their taste for the beauties of God's cre-
ation. As we*progressed on our way we now and
then came to a booth, where there would be an
old woman vending out milk and small cakes.
Those that passed that way dry or hungry could
refresh themselves for a few pence. Our attention
was attracted to an old broom peddler making his
rounds selling the real heather broom, which is a
novelty in the line of brooms. We now had
descended to the level of the main part of the
city and come to a stream called the Bride.

Crossing the Bride we came to the " MardykeCORK CITY.

187

Walk." This is a lovely promenade walk of a
mile in length and a regular resort for the city-
people for recreation and to inhale the sea breeze.
There are two rows of shade trees, one on each
side of the - walk, and seats at intervals to rest
upon. It is a charming place for the invalid, or
those whos& brains are overtaxed with mental
work, resting here from the turmoil of the city
and breathing the fresh sea breeze, which invigor-
ates both mind and body. There are policemen
patrolling this walk all the time, and it is kept
perfectly free/of any dirt or rubbish whatever.
If there is a stump of a cigar or even a scrap of
paper thrown on the walk it is quickly removed.
We walked the entire length of the Mardyke,
resting at intervals and watching the many groups
of people that were here enjoying this lovely
promenade, at last arriving in the busy city again.
Here we parted with our friendly guide, feeling
she had held pretty much the same relation with
us as an interpreter does to one in a foreign land
who cannot speak or understand the language of
the country, therefore enabling us to take note of
the wonderful, eurious and sublime things we saw
in our tour. Though rather tired, we were greatly
pleased with our travel through this part of the
city.CHAPTER XXYI.

FAREWELL TO IRELAND.

" The song of the birds on the bending trees,

We hear in the distance yet,

Like a silver chime that is almost dead

And the music we ne'er forget.

Those pleasant days forever will live,

While memory holds her sway
And the lap of the waves on the flowery brook
Still sounds in their ceaseless play."

THERE is no balm so refreshing to the ex-
hausted nerves incident to travel as a night
of sweet repose. The last two days we had spent
in the great metropolis of Cork was one contin
ual tour of sight-seeing, until our nerves were al-
most exhausted' with the excitement tending it.
There is such a restless desire to be always on the
.move, and seeking to find the most pleasing and
attractive places in which to fill our minds with
lore and appease to some extent our inquisitive
dispositions, that one is apt to become fatigued ere
they are quite aware of it, so engrossed is the
mind with pleasure. But sleep, nature's sweet re-
storer, lulls us into forgetfulness, meantime im-
parting fresh strength to mind and body, and we
arise with renewed vigor to pursue the roll of
travel. Morning again dawned in all its replend-
ence, and we awoke to the consciousness that this

was the day set for our embarking on our home-

188FAREWELL TO IRELAND.

189

ward voyage. So accordingly we began prepar-
ing for Queenstown, where wfe were to set sail for
America.	r

Our visit was to an end, and we had fully
enjoyed it, and felt that we could bid adieu to
old Ireland well pleased with our trip. Leaving
the city, of Cork on the ten o'clock train we
reached Queenstowri depot at eleven o'clock.
There were a number of those Irish busses, in the
shape of side cars, in readiness to convey passen-
gers to the pier, and each driver trying his best to
secure the first load, that he might the quicker
return for a second load, thereby enabling him to
double his profits by his swiftness, though at a
very great discomfort to his passengers. There
being no choice with us in our making a selec-
tion, we were soon on our way to the pier, going
at full speed. I thought several times I would
get thrown off my . seat, as we were whirled
around corners. I do not believe if* I had fallen
off the driver would scarcely have known it, his
mind was so intent on reaching the pier with us
and returning in time to secure another load of
passengers. But finally we drew^ a breath of
relief as we were landed safely at the pier. Here
was all bustle and excitement, getting the passen-
gers and cargo on board the tender, a small vessel
which was to meet the steamship Baltic, a mile or
so outside the harbor. There were a number of
young men and girls taking passage for America,190

A TRIP TO IRELAND.

and sad, indeed, was the scene to witness the
despair depicted on the countenances of the aged
parents as they gave them their parting blessing,
seemingly without a ray of hope that they would
ever see them again. How those poor old hands
tremble and the full heart throbs with anguish.
We pity the lads and lassies, but we pity the old
folks more. We can picture them wending their
way back to that lonely home, oh, so desolate.
No ring of merry voices resounds on the ear as
father and mother enter the cabin door. Such a
hushed stillness pervades, even the bright rays of
the sun has no power in vanquishing the gloom
that has settled like a pall over everything, and
nothing remains to relieve their aching hearts but
sweet affection for those loved ones. But how
different with those journeying forth! The
world in a visionary panorama lies stretched
before, them, which shapens their course to a
brighter destiny, giving them courage to bravely
press on in pursuit of wealth and fame; and they
go forth filled with the spirit of buoyancy.

So when a good ship sails away
I seem to hear upon the wind
Prayers, not for travelers on their way*

But for the sad hearts left behind.

There was considerable time spent in sailing up
and down the quay, taking on luggage and the
mail. Parties having friends on board the tender
followed up and down on the shore, waving theirFAEEWELL TO IRELAND

191

Handkerchiefs and shouting adieus. Some one on
board halloed to bring them something to eat. It
was not long when a party arrived with a. basket
of buns. They were just a few minutes too late
to bring them on board, as the gang plank had
been hauled in; so shouting to their friends on
board the tender to try and catch them, they
began throwing the buns. This caused a general
merriment, as the buns came flying across the
water; now and then one missing the mark would
go bounding out to sea on a voyage by itself, but
most of them came on board and were gathered
in the apron of an Irish lass who distributed
them among her companions to appease the hunger
which seemed to be getting prevalent with a few
who had not provided themselves with dinner,
expecting they would be on board the steamer
before dinner time. All being ready, we sped on
our way. The little tender looked like a bird
skimming the waves to the great steamship it had
gone out to meet. Soon it arrived alongside of
the big steamer, the gang plank was thrown out
and we were quickly transferred on the Baltic of
the famous " "White Star Line," but now under
the control of the " Inman Line," being hired for
this voyage. It was not so magnificent in size or
as steady sailing as the " City of Chicago," the
steamer we went over in, though making the
voyage in quite as quick time. I sat on deck
watching the receding shores of a country which192

A TEIP TO IRELAND.

had left a deep impression on my mind of its rich
landscapes, fertile soil and sorrow-stricken people,
until it was lost to sight. Nothing to view now
but the blue waves dancing around us, we turn
our attention to ship life. Again we had swept
out on the broad Atlantic, and fully realizing the
magnitude of the situation, I felt like exclaiming
with the poet:

The sea, the sea, the open sea;

The blue, the fresh, the ever free,

Without a mark, without a bound,

It runneth the earth's wide regions round.

Yes, it runneth the earth's wide regions round and
I think one never feels so small and helpless as
out on sea. Our ship looked in that vast expanse
of water, in comparison, much like a mote in a
pail of water, and we tiny, helpless creatures were
clinging to it, trusting in God's mercy that we
might be borne safely to port. Ah yes, how
helpless we feel, nothing much smaller, if it were
not for the great trust we put in One who
governs the universe, and has the power to calm
the raging sea. Our return voyage was not quite
so pleasant as going over, as it was attended with
a rougher sea, consequently more sea-sickness. We
had no storms, only one day of rain, but the
waves ran higher, and the vessel dipped more,
therefore the passengers on the lower deck were
benefited with a sea bath a few times, which
would probably have done them more good if they
had been soaped' right well.FAREWELL TO IRELAND.

193

There are many times through one's life that the
'dawn of day brings more than usual joy and
gladness, but hardly is there a keener sense of it
to be observed than the morning land is in view
for the first time after the elapse of eight or
nine days without a vestige of anything to rest
the eyes upon but the ever seething sea.

Watch the countenances of the many passengers
as with the first dawn of light they eagerly
assemble on deck to catch the first glimpse of land.
There is joy depicted on every countenance, espe-
cially if they have endured the pangs of sea-sick-
ness, which few escape altogether.

We are on our return voyage, and instead of
that feeling of forlorn grandeur spoken of in
parting from shore, there is a feeling akin to
triumph that we, through God's mercy, have
passed over the dangerous voyage and are again
in sight of our loved land. Assembled on deck on
one of the loveliest of August afternoons, the
passengers are enjoying the magnificent sceney
of New York harbor as our noble ship steams
into port. It is one ever to be remembered.

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