ILLINOIS UNIVERSITY OF ILLINOIS AT URBANA-CHAMPAIGN PRODUCTION NOTE University of Illinois at Urbana-Champaign Library Brittle Books Project, 2015.COPYRIGHT NOTIFICATION In Public Domain. Published prior to 1923. This digital copy was made from the printed version held by the University of Illinois at Urbana-Champaign. It was made in compliance with copyright law. Prepared for the Brittle Books Project, Main Library, University of Illinois at Urbana-Champaign by Northern Micrographics Brookhaven Bindery La Crosse, Wisconsin 2015612,014k An2u J ANDERSON, W.G. THE USE OF OXYGEN IN MOUNTAIN CLIMBING.A h ^ '■{ Of ■bj /j in Wjft"" THE USE OF OXYGEN IN MOUNTAIN CLIMBING.* W. G. ANDERSON, M. D. i Leonard Hill, M. B., F. R. S., Lecturer on Physiology, London hospital Medical College, London, England, has carried on studies with oxygen with rather remarkable results. Some of these i.ejsults are given in thfs paper. ! In the States oxygen has been used by swimmers, boxers, athletes and wrestlers, but I have been unable to get any authentic reports,of these tests. I will therefore confine myself to a brief summary of the investi- gations made in England, and then make a report upon my own investigations with oxygen in mountain climbing. The main obstacle to the use of oxygen has been the awkward apparatus, heavy and expensive, but Dr. R. von Foregger of New York has invented a- small generator which I will show tofday. Dr. Foregger uses what he terms " Oxone" regarding which he ^ says : ' 'Oxone is a fused peroxide of sodium prepared to generate ^ oxygen gas instantaneously, upon being immersed in water. While ^1 sodium peroxide in its powder form dissolves in water, forming pieroxide hydrate or atomic oxygen, not entering the gaseous ffi sitate, the fused peroxide by heat of dissociation in the instant of ^ solution drives out all its available oxygen. That this oxygen, ^ wk*ck is *n molecular form, does contain a certain percentage ^ off ozone, it is fair to assume. j "It is found that one pound of oxone furnishes on an average 2j. 15 feet Oxygen gas at normal temperature and pressure. As the ^ product has a small volume, the gas production amounts to 312 times its own volume, or 130 times the volume of water. "The product is adaptable for shipment to any distance and ^offers no danger of explosion or combustion, and no inconvenience whatever in the use except the strong causticity, which has to be u taken into consideration when handling the same. tJ "The advantages offered by such a product are obvious, and & the great influence which the presence of such practical, easjly f ^ transportable oxygen supply will bear upon the development of ^ iertain industries is beyond question. The hesitation which most professional men, being fully aware of the value of oxygen, have I S shown to the use of this gas due to the restrictive and clumsy use ^ *Read before the National Convention (Therapeutic Section), Philadelphia, April 9, JL909.of heavy 6oiitainefg (>i compressed or liquid gas, will at once vanish." (Follows a demonstration of oxone.) "In a research published in the last number of the Journal of Physiology, Vol. XXXVIII., page 77, M. Flack and Leonard Hill showed that the period in which the breath can be hel4 without distress is greatly increased if a few breaths of oxygdn are taken beforehand. There are two causes of the breaking down, one the rising pressure of C02, the other the falling pressure of oxygen in the alveolar air. Without breathing oxy- gen the breaking-down point is reached when the partial pressure of CO2 in the alveolar air rises approximately from 5.5 to 7 per cent, of an atmosphere. After three breaths of oxygen t^e breaking point occurs when the CO2, reaches 8 per cent, or even io per cent. It is obvious, then, that oxygen want is one, if not the sole, cause of the breaking down, and that C02 excels becomes the cause if oxygen want is prevented. ''This preliminary work having been done, T. H. Just and Mr. Holding entered into the research, both being university runners and competitors at the Olympic games, and in training. Trials were held on Stamford Bridge track on July 27, and the tinges were taken by the secretary of the grounds." : i Mr. Just's Test. "Mr Just inhaled oxygen for two minutes, and then ran thfc half-mile. The first quarter he ran in 54 seconds. He finished im 1 minute 55^ seconds. Mr. Holding paced him in the last 200 yards. Otherwise he was unpaced. The best time in which hjs had ever done the half mile before was 1 minute 55^ seconds, alt the inter-university sports. While training before the Olympijc gajnes he never did the half mile under 1 minute 58^ seconds." j Mr. Holding's Test. •' ' 'Mr, Holding inhaled oxygen for two minutes, and then rau the quarter in 50^ seconds. To the astonishment of the officials] he was no more blown than after a 100-yards race. The best time in which he had ever done the quarter before was 51% seconds. " The next table shows that the ventilation of the lung is ample after severe muscular effort. What is at fault is that the use of oxygen and production of C02 are so rapid in the muscles that the circulation cannot keep pace with the demand; the exi cess of CO 2 can be warded off by forced breathing before the 2effort for some minutes, so as to clear out the CO2 in the blood and tissues. The want of oxygen can be warded off partly by forced breathing, and still more by breathing oxygen. One of us (Iy. H) has found that forced breathing, continued for two minutes, before running a certain course lessens both the time in which he can do it and the after dyspnoea. ' 'Forced breathing for some minutes allows the athlete to run much further without taking a breath and with much less dis- tress. Ordinary breathing of oxygen helps the runner greatly, in giving the muscles and heart ample oxygen. Forced breathing plus oxygen is the method which should enable the athlete to break all the world records. In holding his breath 8 minutes 13 seconds, Dr. Vernon greatly exceeded the record time spent under water by Miss Wallender at the Alhambra, namely, 4 minutes 45^ seconds. It has been proved conclusively that excess of oxygen does not increase the rate of metabolism of living matter. It is not a question here of fanning up the fire of life, but of assuring the athlete an adequate respiratory exchange in muscles during his supreme efforts." Duration of forced breathing: Time 0 minutes.........................42 seconds. 1 minute.'........................ 2 minutes 21 seconds. 5 minutes........................ 3 minutes 2 seconds. 6 minutes....................... 4 minutes 5 seconds. Duration of forced breathing plus last four breaths of oxygen ; 0 minutes........................ 1 minutes 7 seconds^ 1 minute......................... 3 minutes 38 seconds. 3 minutes........................ 6 minutes 34 seconds. 6 minutes........................ 8 minutes 13 seconds. —" The Influence of Oxygen Inhalations on Athletes " Leonard Hill} Martin Flack and T, H. Just, British Medical Journal, August 22, ipo8. "From further observations made on athletes, on myself, and on horses, I have come to the conclusion that oxygen inhalation followed by, or accompanying, exercise is a most active and ef- fective form of treatment, I have confirmed the results obtained by Mr. Martin Flack, Mr. Just and myself on athletes, and these results have also been confirmed in America by observations on swimmers made by Professors E. Smith and Gies and Dr. Darlington, and also by Mr. Martin Flack, who demonstrated the effect of oxygen on Wolfe in his last Channel swim. 3"By the kindness of two neighbors—dairy farmers—I have been able to prove that horses in their ordinary condition, result- ing from the wear and tear of daily life, are able to climb hills faster and with far less distress after breathing oxygen. .... Durig has shown on the resting man that excess of oxygen has no influence on metabolism, and this appears to be the case in the working horse or man so long as the supply is adequate. If the heart and lung fail to give enough oxygen to the muscles the working power is lessened, and then oxygen-breathing has its effect, not otherwise. Neither heart nor wind failed the perfectly trained racehorse in a sprint of this length. "In the case of a Marathon runner who came to me for a trial of oxygen in the first week of his training, I found after I had let him run five miles, that oxygen lessened his time for another three-quarter mile by thirty-eight seconds. There can be no question that its influence is very great on the untrained or fatigued man. It enables a man to increase very considerably the metabolism of his body." Addendum.—"The Effect of Oxygen on Wolfe in His Channel Swim of September 19." By Martin Flack. Mr. Jabez Wolfe started at 6.06 a. m. Twenty-three strokes per minute. Meals hourly of warm, weak tea and sponge fingers or jiursing Oxo with plasmon biscuits. Had no intention of using oxygen. Covered first 14 miles in 8 hours. A "bad time" at 5 p. m. Would not use 02. At 7.45 took large quantities of 02. Given each 15 minutes. When a quarter of a mile from the shore he gave up, account cold and cramp. " . . . . It was hard luck that he did not use 02 earlier. From a scientific point of view, although barren as regards effects of oxygen in staving off fatigue, the result was fruitful in demon- strating its great value in relieving fatigue, even of the most far- advanced type."—" Oxygen and Muscular Exercise as a Form of Treatment," Leonard JHfiU, M. B., F. R. S. British Medical Journal ^October 3, ipo8. "We have made a number of observations on the pulse, blood- pressure and respiration which show that oxygen inhalation by maintaining or restoring the vigor of the heart, increases the lasting power and lessens the after-fatigue of athletes. The fatigue which follows an athletic feat seems to be mainly cardiac in origin, and due to want of oxygen. The blood-pressure ob- servations were taken on the radial artery with the new lyeonaird Hill sphygmometer. , "The subjects breathe from a bag through a Zuntz metre, arid do not know whether air or oxygen is in a bag. Blood-pressure,pulse frequency, respiratory frequency and breathing volume are recorded. Results show that time of the run if lowered, pulse frequency lowered the blood-pressure kept up by breathing oxy- gen, breathing volume and frequency are not definitely changed— being dependent apparently on the rate of work and the CO 2 pro- duction—but a feeling of relief to the dyspnoea is given by the oxygen. The subject breathes easily and with his belly rather than his chest. ' 'Another set of tests carried out on boxers, shows most strik- ingly how oxygen restores the vigor by lessening the pulse fre- quency, markedly increasing its strength and fulness, and raising the blood-pressure. Oxygen given at the end of a third round to a "done" man sends him back to the ring full of fire and energy. The blood-pressure readings were taken with the wrist resting on the knee of the subject who lay back exhausted in a chair, and therefore below the hearts level. They must be reduced some 10-15 mm. for heart's level reading."—"The Influence of oxygen on Athletes" Leonard Hill and Martin Flack, Proceedings of the Physiological Society, January 23, 1909, Dr. Foregger's belief that oxone could be used for the re- generation of air in enclosed spaces, especially in submarine boats, led him to make experiments with men and animals shut up in hermetically sealed boxes. He found that not only rabbits lived on the oxygen liberated from oxone, but that men remained in the box for six hours with no feelings of unrest. The box was about four times the size of a coffin. (See Report on Experiment with Fused Sodium Peroxide for Regeneration of Air in Submarine Boats, by Drs. G. F. Brindley and R. von Foregger, New York, 1906, 100 William Street) My own tests have been made on runners, wrestlers, swimmers, and gymnasts; in holding the breath, in feats of endurance and in mountain climbing. This paper presents some data collected last December and January while in old Mexico. The three big mountains in Old Mexico are Orizaba, 17,879 feet; Popocatepetl, 17,784 feet: and Ixtacchiuatl, 17,476 feet. Towering above these peaks elsewhere on this continent are Mt. Logan, 19,539 feet and St. Elias, 18,024 feet. In Switzerland, Mont, Blanc, 15,781 feet and Jung Frau, 13,762 feet. In the Rockies, Pike's Peak, over 14,000 feet and in Italy, Vesuivus, 4,000 feet. These figures are given merely for comparison. Dif- ferent scientific men assign different heights for the Mexican mountains. 5Two Very readable papers have been published, one by a civil engineer in Philadelphia, Mr. Charles A. Gilchrist, on ' 'Climbs on Popocatepetl and Ixtacchiuatl," Appalachia, Vol. XI., No. 3 ; the other, 4'Observations on Popocatepetl and Ixtacchiuatl," by Oliver C. Farrington, Ph. D., Curator, Department of Geology, Field Columbian Museum, Chicago, Vol. I., No. 2, Pub. 18. These books contain Bibliographies. Leave Mexico City 7,349 feet above the sea at 5 p. m., via Interoceanic Railroad, reach Popo Park a!t 7.30 p.m. in time to get a most appetizing dinner at the beautiful new hotel, Captain Charles Holt, M. B. Columbia College, 1903, Manager. The old starting place has been Amecameca, but now the tour- ists find a more attractive point at Popo Park. All red tape is removed, no licenses are required, the guides with horses, complete equipment, abundant and exceedingly well- prepared meals are provided. Every minor detail is looked after by the energetic Captain, so that all the climber has to do is to get a good night's sleep and start early the next day for the foot hills. Three days are usually needed to climb either mountain ; it is better to take four. The entire cost per person is fifty dollars for Popo, and seventy-five for Ixti. Few, if any, fees are ex- pected. We left the park December 22, 1908, at 9.45 a.m. A beautiful, warm summer morning. There were five guides, three horses and one burrow. Temperature 60 degrees, barometer 2700. We journeyed over the road made by Cortez in the sixteenth century. Took lunch among the foothills at 1 o'clock, temperature 60, barometer 3550. We passed hundreds of heavily loaded peons going over the saddle between Popo and Ixti, slender limbed men who half trot and half walk all day long, drink pulque and eat tortillas. These ^Mexicans frequently go over the mountains from the great plains of Apam in the Puebla valley to the towns in the valley of Mexico. Their carrying capacity is enormous. The highest point of the pass or saddle is 12,118 feet. We reached our camping place, the huts of Pallegallinas, at 4 p.m. The first series of tests with oxygen were made here. They consisted of running and walking 100 yards. The resume of this Study follows: Pallegallinas, Mexico. 11,510 feet. December 22, 1908, 4 p.m. Four tests in walking 100 yards with heavy suit and mountain shoes. Pulse after dismounting and removing properties, 88. No dyspnoea. 6Seated five minutes, no oxygen, pulse 72. Seated, but breathed oxygen two minutes, pulse 66. Paced off 100 yards going over course twice rapidly, pulse 100. Rested five minutes with no oxygen, pulse seated 76. Walked 100 yards rapidly, pulse no. Breathed oxygen two minutes, pulse seated 68. Walked the distance, pulse 85. Breathed oxygen two minutes, pulse 66. Five minutes* rest, no oxygen, pulse 66. Walked the distance, pulse 100. Rested three minutes with no oxygen, pulse 78. Conclusions based upon walking test: Oxygen given before walking reduced the heart rate; taken afterwards, also reduced the number of beats quickly: The walk without the use of oxygen quickened the action of the heart noticeably. If the gas was not inhaled after this effort the heart did not return to its normal beat so quickly. Tests in running, same heavy suit. (The writer's record for 100 yards was lof seconds.) First run, no oxygen used, time 26 seconds, pulse 140. After two minutes' oxygen pulse 68. Rested three more minutes, but breathed oxygen the last two minutes. Ran 100 yards, time 24 seconds, pulse 128. After two minutes' rest with no oxygen, pulse 80. Two minutes' rest, no oxygen, pulse 78. Ran 100 yards, time 25 seconds, pulse 150, distress. Rested two minutes with oxygen, pulse 80. Rested two minutes, no oxygen, pulse 78. Rested two more minutes using oxygen, pulse 70. Ran 100 yards, pulse 128, time 26 seconds. Oxygen two minutes, pulse 78. Rested five minutes, pulse 70. Ran the course, time 24 seconds, pulse 132. Seated, rest of two minutes, no oxygen, pulse 85. Conclusions based on the running tests : Oxygen reduces the pulse rate if taken before the run, or if taken both before and after exertion of this kind. The gas greatly relieved the dyspnoea which was evident after each run. If oxygen is not taken, the heart rate is quickened and does not return to normal beat so quickly. (The writer's heart is a slow one, often beating as low as 58 when seated.) December 23, 1908. Rose at 3 a. m. Pulse seated, 64. 7Breakfast meager, weak tea and nut cake. Recharged the generator. Rode from 3.30 a. m. to 7 00 a. m. Very cold, Toes frozen. Two pairs of mittens, heavy sweater, one serape, two pairs of stockings. Horse suffered from dyspnoea and often stopped to breathe. Reached the snow line a 7 a. m. Hands too cold to read the pulse. Not one bubble of oxygen and no chance to refill the generator. Pulse at the start about 85. Attacked by mountain sickness at the start. Retching but no vomiting. Ate chocolate. No more sickness during the two ascents. The weather conditions are said to produce mountain sickness, but the trip up Popo was made in beautiful weather, that up Ixti in very stormy and gloomy weather. I strongly recommend the use of chocolate. The snow was easily covered, air so rarefied that we took but two steps at a time and were too exhausted to even raise the head to watch the clouds or inspect for any length of time the most wonderful panorama I have ever seen. We rested in the snow every ten steps. Ready to give up and return as the crater seemed miles away, when one guide rushed ahead of us and shouted, "Llegamos!" "We are here." We stood on the edge of the smoking crater of Popo, nearly 18,000 feet above the sea. (11.30 a. m.) '%et one imagine a pit about 2000 feet in its greater diameter, 1300 in its lesser, and from 800 to 1500 feet in depth, let down into the mountain, from different points in the nearly perpen- dicular walls of which jets of steam come hissing and sizzling, and rocks of varying size continually fall from the walls of the crater and plunge with a roar to the bottom; imagine that the bottom is heaped unevenly with d&bris of yarious sorts and colors, and that all this must be observed in a wind so fierce that it causes the very walls of the crater to tremble, and one gets a good idea of the first impression made upon the observer by the crater."—Gilchrist. While resting at the mouth of the crater we ate very little dinner, the guides, however, did their duty by the excellent lunch. I noticed, however, that they returned to their tortillas at every meal. We slid down Popo on rush mats, Angle 30 degrees, distance 3000 feet, time about three minutes. Found the horses, rode to Popo Park. Were in the saddle twelve hours that day. In Mexico City the next afternoon. No ill after-effects at all save a slight lameness in the left knee which soon disappeared. • 8Several days in and near Mexico City did much to make us familiar with the high altitudes. The second trip was up Ixti. We left the park at 9.35 a.m., December 28, 1908. In the party were six guides, one mozo or bearer, one cook and one mule driver. (Eleven persons.) The guides evidently went to give each other courage as they were not needed by us. There is great fear among the Mexicans about the big 44 White Woman." The peons hesitate to climb the mountain. The crevasses are many and dangerous, and frequently con- cealed by thin snow bridges. A man once near the edge would be apt to continue the journey to the bottom of the deep and awe- inspiring clefts in the ice. v We passed through ancient Amecameca at 11.05 and hit the trail and ascent at 12.10. launch at 12.40. Thermometer 63, barometer 2350. Pulse S seated, 64. At 4.30 the barometer registered 483. That told a sad story. The barometer was broken. I made an effort to take body tem- perature readings but found the thermometer broken. A guide took this as a valuable souvenir and hung it about his neck. Moral, take several instruments of each kind and keep your eyes upon the guides. At 5^30 we reached the big caves of Cholula, 13,400 feet, where we slept. These caves are spacious enough for the entire party, so we divided the room with horses and guides. Pulse, after moving about, 100; after five minutes'rest with no oxygen, 72. The tests at Cholula consisted of rapid walking only. As the ground offered no level course for more than fifty yards going ahd coming, I was compelled to use an uneven track twenty- five paces in length. Pulse after walking over the fifty yards, 96. Rested two minutes without oxygen, pulse, 78. Oxygen two minutes, pulse 70. After the walk, pulse 88, After two minutes, pulse 76. Na 02. Rested five minutes and walked fifty yards, pulse, 108. After two minutes, no oxygen, pulse 80. Oxygen for two minutes, pulse 68. Walked over the course, pulse 88. After two minutes, oxygen, pulse 70. 9It will be noticed that the heart dropped rapidly from a high to a low beat whether the gas was inhaled or not. This may be accounted for by the fact that I have been in daily training in feats of strength and endurance where the heart action was often raised to 130 and 150 beats, but very quickly returned to the normal rate. Without doubt the dyspnoea is due to oxygen starvation as only a few breaths are necessary to retard the quick action of the heart and lungs. We started for the glacier at 5.45 the next morning, December 29, 1908. At the snow line we left the horses, which were suf- fering, and permitted some of the not unwilling guides to take them down to the brush. Early in the ascent we learned that the Mexicans had no heart in the venture. The deadly "barrancas," as they called the deep and dangerous crevasses, not only yawned for them but the spirits or goblins of the mountain were ready to seize them at any moment. Had it not been for my companion, Mr. Joel Ellis Fisher, Jr., of New York City, a Yale undergraduate, we would never have reached the " breasts." Mr. Fisher a well-trained mountain climber, and at the first "balk" made by the guides he took the lead. All but two of the party were tied together and these two came very near a glissade on more than one occasion. The day was bitterly cold, no sun, a very penetrating, strong wind; clouds and mists continually settling about us, the way often hidden by fog and clouds of light snow. Every step had to be cut in the ice by the picks. Mr. Fisher cut over a thousand steps that day. We two Americans nibbled chocolate frequently : this was all we ate. The guides, strange to say, had lost their appetites but spent much time crossing themselves or offering up prayers. I carried the generator about my neck and breathed the gas almost constantly for three hours. It was like water to a thirsty man. I was able to make the climb with much less suffering than on Popo; there was not a qualm of sickness. My hands were too cold to take readings of the pulse, but I knew both by heart action and respiration that the gas was helpful. I really suffered not at all on this climb. Ixti is very seldom conquered on account of the ice, the crevasses, the uncertain weather and the inability to get guides who will go beyond the glacier. Under the leadership of Mr. Fisher we passed over the saddle between the feet and breast, and reached the top. This was at 10i o'clock. The guides immediately threw themselves face down in the snow and returned thanks for their safety. They were more pleased than we. It was afterwards learned that this was the first time any of them had ever reached the breasts of Ixti, the highest point. The threatening weather and a rapid gathering of black clouds sent us down almost im- mediately. There was no toboggan slide that day, had there been one the listener would have been spared this paper to-day. We reached the snow line in two hours and a half, and the big cave at 4.40. We were in bed at 6 p. m. and did not move until 6 a. m. the next day. We left Cholula at 7 a. m., passed through Ameca at 11, and were at the park at 12.30. Mexico City at 5 p. m. The hard climb was made easy by several factors: Oxygen practice, over a week living in a high altitude of about 8000 feet, physical training and a strong heart, and adjustment to the en- vironment. I have no hesitation in saying that the dyspnoea produced by high altitudes is very materially alleviated by oxygen. This trip, taken in the cause of science, was made possible by the generosity of Mr. Fisher of Yale University. References. Leonard Hill and Martin Flack, "The Influence of Oxygen on Athletes," Journal of Physiology (English), Vol. XXXVIII. Dr. R. von Foregger, 4'The Utilization of Active Oxygen, etc." Proc. American Electrochemical Society, 1905. (100 William Street, N. Y.) A. E. Boycott and J. S. Haldane, "The Effects of Low Atmospheric Pres- sure on Respiration,'' Journal of Physiology (English), Vol. XXXVII., Nos. 5 and 6. J. S. Haldane and E. P. Moulton, "Alveolar Air on Monte Rosa," Journal of Physiology (English) Vol. XXXVII., December 15, 1908. Leonard Hill, "Oxygen and Muscular Exercise as a Form of Treatment," Reprint British Medical Journal, October 8, 1908. Leonard Hill, Martin Flack and T. H. Just, "The Influence of Oxygen Inhalations on Athletes,'' British Medical Journal, August 22, 1908. H. M. Vernon, "The Production of Prolonged Apnoea in Man," Journal of Physiology, Vol. XXXVIII., Nos. 2 and 3, February, 1909. Charles A. Gilchrist, "Climbs on Popocatepetl,'' extrated from Appalachia, Vol. LX., No. B. Oliver C. Farrington, "Observations of Popocatepetl and Ixtacchiuatl," Geological Series, Field Columbian Museum, Chicago, Pub. 18, Vol. II. Dr. R. von Foregger (New York), "Report on Experiments with Fused Sodium Peroxide for the Regeneration of Air in Submarine Boats," Sixth International Congress Applied Chemistry, 1906. G. F. Brindley, Niagara Falls, New York. (See previous report of Dr. von Foregger.) Note.—Ixtacchiuatl, pronounced Is tac see watl, means "The White Woman" (I^a Mujer blanca). 11This book is a preservation facsimile produced for the University of Illinois, Urbana-Champaign. It is made in compliance with copyright law and produced on acid-free archival 60# book weight paper which meets the requirements of ANSI/NISO Z39.48-1992 (permanence of paper). Preservation facsimile printing and binding by Northern Micrographics Brookhaven Bindery La Crosse, Wisconsin 2015