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JOURNAL

TOUR TO CONSTANTINOPLE,

VOL. II.Henry CoTburri. Publisher, Great Marlborough St .IS42A STEAM YOYAGE

TO

CONSTANTINOPLE,

BY THE RHINE AND THE DANUBE,
IN 1840-41,

AND TO

PORTUGAL, SPAIN, &c,
IN 1839.

BY C. W. VANE,

MARQUESS OF LONDONDERRY, G.C.B., &c.

TO WHICH IS ANNEXED, THE AUTHORS

CORRESPONDENCE

WITH

PRINCE METTERNICH, LORDS PONSONBY,
PALMERSTON, &c.

IN TWO VOLUME

VOL. II.

LONDON:

HENRY COLBURN, PUBLISHER,

GREAT MARLBOROUGH STREET..

1842.LONDON:

F. SHOBERL, JON., 51, RUPERT STREET, HAYMARRET,
PRINTER TO H.R.H. PRINCE ALBERT.CONTENTS

OF

THE SECOND VOLUME.

CHAPTER XV.

Delightful weather in November, concluded with a dreadful
hurricane—Our party embark for Smyrna in the "Dream" and
" Merlin" yachts—Feelings on leaving Constantinople—Sestos
and Abydos — Appearance of the Hellespont — Shores of Asia
and Europe—Remarks upon the Political and Social changes
introduced into Turkey during the life of the late Sultan — A
Turkish Professor of Mathematics—Sultan Mahmoud and his
reforms — Change of dress—Destruction of the Janissaries •—
State of the Peasantry—Cultivation of the soil—Outline of the
existing system in Turkey—Sultan Mahmoud and his Ministers
—Excessive number of Government Offices, and prodigality of
the State to its own servants — Reschid Pacha's errors — Em-
barrassment caused by alterations in the commercial system—
Russian Policy — Conduct of the British Embassy — Reschid
Pacha's preference for the French system attributed to his
knowledge of the language and ignorance of English — Ori-
entals incapable of appreciating a complicated code of regula-
tions—Financial difficulties—Oversights ... 1iv

CONTENTS.

CHAPTER XVI.

Voyage to Smyrna — Appearance of Scio—The Greeks
unworthy the sympathy of Europe — Rough Weather — Qua-
rantine at Corfu — Arrangements and mode of Living in the
Lazaretto — Family Reunion — Comfortless Quarters at the
Club Hotel—Courtesies exhibited by the authorities at Corfu
—Benefits conferred on the Ionian Islands, by the Lord High-
Commissioners— A Visit to the College of Education for
Greek Youth — Excellent System of Tuition — Liberal Oppo-
sition—Greek Law of Divorce, and attempts at its Reform
— Separation of the Civil and Military Government of the
Island — Opinions as to the strength of the Defences — Ne-
cessity of their being strengthened, and the Garrison increased
—Happiness of the People of Corfu—Intrigues of the Libe-
rals ....... , . . 29

CHAPTER XVII.

Courtesy of Sir Howard Douglas—Appearance of Paxo, Ce-
phalonia, and St. Maur—Reported Brigandage of the Greeks—
The British Consulate at Patras—Uncomfortable Inns—Con-
veyance to Corinth placed at our disposal by the Russian
eharge d' affaires — Hospitality of Sir Edmund Lyons—New
Year in the Parthenon—Immortal Memorials—Lords Elgin,
Byron, and Durham — Singular etiquette established at the
Court of Athens — Presentation to the King and Queen — A
Royal Dinner at Athens — The King and Queen of Greece —
Handsome Conduct of the King — Preposterous charge of the
agents of an Austrian Lloyd's Company's vessel . . 49CONTENTS.

V

CHAPTER XVIII.

The King of Greece reviews his troops on the plains of
Athens — Their number — System of the Greek tacticians —
Peculiarity in their cavalry exercise — Hospitality of the
Austrian Ambassador—Miserable appearance of Athens—The
King's new Palace—Its defects—Places of worship—Immense
expense of the new Palace—Greece, as a constitutional mo-
narchy, more despotic in its government than when subjected
to the alleged tyranny of the Ottoman empire—King Otho
performs all the functions of the administration—General dis-
satisfaction —« Employment of torture — Conference with the
King—Extract from a Letter from Sir Edmund Lyons, stating
that this conversation with the King has led to a change in his
majesty's opinions . . . . . , .63

CHAPTER XIX.

Leave Athens—Honours of the Harbour—Rapid voyage to
Zante — Inferior steam-boat—Description of Zante—Earth-
quakes—Trade in currants—Society at Malta—Recent Im-
provements—Splendid orange-trees—The Harbour—Civil and
Military Government — Dinner Parties of officers who had
served in the Peninsular War—Palermo—The Sicilian army—
A hard gale—Naples ...... 77

CHAPTER XX.

Steam-ships—Their expence and accommodations — Disas-
trous Weather—Our Vessel strikes in the dead of the night—
Alarm on board—Arrival at Vigo—The British Consul there—VI

CONTENTS.

Recognition of the country after thirty years' absence—Change
created in the lapse of time—Arrival at Lisbon—Palace of
Marialva — Courtesy of the English Admiral — Diplomatic
School on the banks of the Tagus—Civility of the Due de
Terceira — Funeral Ceremony in honour of Don Pedro's me-
mory— Signs of poverty and decay in Portugal . .95

CHAPTER XXI.

State of Portugal—Political parties—Speculations as to the
state of parties — Finances and Laws—The effects of changing
long-established institutions—Visit to the Donegal—The Due
de Palmella—Indifference of the British Embassy—The Due de
Terceira's dinner—The English chapel—Insecurity of life and
property in Lisbon—Don Pedro's constitution—Cintra—The
Cork and Col de Penar Convents—Montserrat—Visit to the
Marialva Palace—Excursion to Mafra — Road-making in Por-
tugal — State of the palace of Mafra, the largest building in
the world—Leave Portugal .... . 121

CHAPTER XXII.

Approach to Cadiz—Description of the City and its Inhabi-
tants — The Cathedrals — Promenades — Visit on board the
Trinculo brig and Merlin yacht — Mr. Brackenburg — The
British Consul — Voyage to Seville — Banks of the Guadal-
quiver—Promenades—Seville Cathedral—The Civil War in
Spain—Impressions as to the state of parties in the country—
Political measures of the Government — Dissolution of the
Monasteries—Working of the Liberal System in the hands ofCONTENTS.

vii

the Spaniards—Dispersion of the Priests—Influence of Napo-
leon in Spain . ....... 145

CHAPTER XXIII.

Rejoicing at Seville for the victories of Espartero—Prepa-
rations for a Bullfight—Description of the company assembled
in the Amphitheatre—Their amusements previously to the com-
mencement of the entertainment—Absence of vice and disorder
— Amateur Bullfighting — Preparations for the regular Exhi-
bition — Mounted Picadors — Banderilleros — The Matador-
Death of the Bull—Revolting Spectacle—Ancient Bullfights
contrasted with those of modern times — State Bullfights —
Visit to the Alcazar—Promenade in the Galleries of the Pa-
lace—Government Tobacco Manufacture—Murillos—Spanish
Ladies ......... 165

CHAPTER XXIV.

Shops in Seville — Spanish Luxuries — Interior Chapels of
the Cathedral—Visit to the Nunnery of St. Agnes—Legend
of Santa Inez—Injustice inflicted on the Nuns of Spain by the
Government of the country —Interior of a Convent — Body of
Dona Inez—A new crime—Public Entertainments — Cadiz —
—Visit to Xeres—Manufacture of Sherry—An early Marriage
—Fortifications of Cadiz—Cape Trafalgar — African Coast—
Voyage to Tangier . . . .	. .189

CHAPTER XXV.

First Impressions on Landing in Africa — The Moors of
Africa at the present Day a Degenerate Race—Moorish Marketviii

CONTENTS.

—Arab Encampment—Visit to a Moorish Village—A Moorish
Concert—Lady L/s Interview with the Pacha's Wives—Ill-
Treatment of the Jews by the Moors—Arabs on their way to
Mecca—Voyage to Gibraltar—Visit on Board a Dutch Frigate
to Prince Henry of Orange — Grand Review — Inspection of
the Fortifications—Weakness of the Sea Defences—Gibraltar
and Cintra—Excursion to Algesiras—Expedition to Ceuta—
Smuggling at Gibraltar — Strength of Ceuta—The French in
Africa . . . . . . . . .213

CHAPTER XXVI.

Landing at Tetuan, in stormy weather—Embouchure of the
Tetuan river—A Moorish Captain—Description of Tetuan—
The British Consul and his Family — Moorish Houses — A
Visit to the Pacha of Tetuan — Return to Gibraltar—Malaga
—Spanish houses—Curious manufactures—Our cavalcade at
starting from Malaga for an expedition to Granada—Difficulties
at the commencement of the march—Ascent of the Sierra—
A mountain village—A Spanish inn—111 manners—Travelling
accommodations—Important services . . . 245

CHAPTER XXVII.

The march resumed—Halt at Loxa—Further Disasters—Ac-
commodations of a Peasant's House — Good Conduct of the
Spanish Peasantry — Farmers — Spanish Roads — Grenada—
The Alhambra—The Court of Fishes—The Court of Lions—
Moorish Architecture — The Royal Apartments — Spanish
Hospitality—Some Evils of a fine Climate—Causes of the Po-
litical Degradation of Spain — The Mines — The Merchants ofCONTENTS.

IX

Cadiz—The Spaniards' excuse for their Civil War—The Policy
of the late Government of England, as to Spain . .273

CHAPTER XXVIII. *

The Cathedral of Grenada — The Summer Gardens of the
Alhambra — The Convent of Cantuja — A Tertulia — De-
parture for Motril — Novel route and mode of travelling—
A Village Bivouac — Sagacity of Mules — Bezaen — Its
Annoyances—Motril—A Spanish Posada—Spanish Exaction
— A Compliment at Parting — A Night Embarkation —
Carthagena — The Vice-Consul — Voyage to Barcelona — A
Storm—Female Endurance—Arrival at Barcelona — Descrip-
tion of the Bay and City—The English Consul—A Ball—
The Ladies of Barcelona — Valdez and Cabrera — Departure
—Voyage to Marseilles — Conclusion . . . 297

Index

323CHAPTER XV.

Delightful weather in November, concluded with a dreadful
hurricane—Our party embark for Smyrna in the " Dream" and
" Merlin" yachts—Feelings on leaving Constantinople—Sestos
and Abydos — Appearance of the Hellespont—Shores of Asia
and Europe—Remarks upon the Political and Social changes
introduced into Turkey during the life of the late Sultan — A
Turkish Professor of Mathematics—Sultan Mahmoud and his
reforms — Change of dress—Destruction of the Janissaries —
State of the Peasantry—Cultivation of the soil—Outline of the
existing system in Turkey—Sultan Mahmoud and his Ministers
—Excessive number of Government Offices, and prodigality of
the State to its own servants — Reschid Pacha's errors — Em-
barrassment caused by alterations in the commercial system—
Russian Policy — Conduct of the British Embassy — Reschid
Pacha's preference for the French system attributed to his
knowledge of the language and ignorance of English—Ori-
entals incapable of appreciating a complicated code of regula-
tions—Financial difficulties—Oversights.

YOL. II.

BJOURNAL,

CHAPTER XV.

It was finally settled that on Tuesday, 1st De-
cember, we were to take our passage by the Aus-
trian Company's steam-packet for Smyrna. We
had enjoyed a month of the most delicious summer
weather in November: the sun sultry, the atmo-
sphere clear, the heavens as blue above as the waters
of the Bosphorus below; if we had not been so
favoured, all our pleasurable anticipations at Con-
stantinople would have failed. But, as if to prove
the fierce reverse to which the firmament can rush
from the most placid serenity, there arose, on the
30th November, one of the most dreadful hurri-
canes, night and day, of snow and hard frost with

b 24

EMBARK FOR SMYRNA.

it, that ever was seen. The vessels in the Golden
Horn were all driven from their anchorage; the
steam-boats that were to arrive were missing;
twelve ships were reported to be lost in the Black
Sea ; and the ship in which we were to depart had
not come in.

These untoward events forced us to change our
plan, and avail ourselves of the offers of Mr. Ben-
tinck, of the " Dream " yacht cutter, and Captain
Lyon, of the " Merlin." All our party embarked in
those vessels for Smyrna, Lady L. and myself sail-
ing in the " Dream." Our carriages and the ser-
vants, not immediately required, were left behind
to take the French steamer for Malta, where we our-
selves intended ultimately to repair. In bidding a
final adieu to Constantinople—probably for ever—
and, though venturing to deliver sentiments with
regard to it, differing, probably, from all that have
heretofore been given, I have to record that I sighed
over its beauties as I departed, for it was then I
appreciated them most.

Baron Sturmer insisted on attending us on board
the yachts in his richly gilt galley. One of theTHE HELLESPONT.

5

attendant and necessary appurtenances to an am-
bassador are these large brilliant caiques, with
their eighteen or twenty rowers, gaily dressed out.
They carry at their prow the crest of the prophet;
and when the Sultan ploughs the Golden Horn
with his barge, which is pre-eminently gorgeous,
and the ministers and pachas follow, the whole
appears like a fairy fleet, eminently striking and
beautiful.

Attended by our kind friends, we went on board
ship at four p. m. on the evening of the 3d De-
cember ; and, getting up our anchors, sailed for
the Dardanelles that evening. On the 4th, in the
morning, having run all night, we were abreast of
the outer castles of Sestos and Abydos. The
Hellespont here appeared to me three quarters of
a mile across; the coast, on either side, was a suc-
cession of batteries and castles; and, of course, the
passage of this formidable canal must mainly de-
pend on the artillery and troops, and on the spirit
and ability displayed in maintaining it. But it
seems hardly possible to believe that any fleet could
run up from the Archipelago without being placed6

SHORES OF ASIA AND EUROPE.

hors de combat before it entered the Sea of Mar-
mora, if the defences were served with courage,
skill, and ability.

The general features of the Dardanelles disap-
pointed me ; and so did I remember, in a former
hour, the entrance from the Baltic into the Sound.
Objects which have been much vaunted always
disappoint expectation.

The shores, both of Asia and Europe, are much
lower than I had anticipated; the ground is poor
and barren, and possesses no feature, except the
batteries and defences, and I sought in vain, at
daylight on the 4th, for all that has been por-
trayed by other writers.

In bidding adieu, and looking generally at the
condition of Turkey as it is, I cannot avoid a few
remarks upon the changes introduced into its social
as well as political state, during the life of the late
Sultan Mahmoud, as well as subsequently. In
proportion to the direct intercourse with European
powers held at Constantinople, from a very long
period before the year 1821, pointed out by Mr.
Slade, and even so far back as the time of GeneralA PROFESSOR OF MATHEMATICS.	7

Sebastiani's visit, a certain and gradual, though but
slow, change was taking place in the popular mind,
at least of the better orders, in Turkey. The re-
forms of Sultan Selim, the English and Russian
wars, had in a great degree counteracted this ten-
dency ; yet still it existed, though but faintly per-
ceptible, in the class I have named. An impression
began to gain ground that improvements might
be made in some parts of the system of Turkey;
that is to say, on points in which the nation
was visibly defective, as contrasted with European
powers.

For instance, a school of engineers has been
established, but so miserably conducted, thq,t it is
related that, when Sebastiani visited it, he put to
the professor of mathematics the every day ques-
tion, of the sum of the angles of a right-angled
triangle ? The professor asked time to consult his
brethren; and the Frenchman, instead of being told
that it was equal to two right-angles, was gravely
answered, that " all depended on the size of the
triangle."

There was, then, a certain feeling that assisted8

SULTAN MAHMOUD

the first steps of Mahmoud. He has been accused
of precipitancy; but though this cannot be alto-
gether denied, it seems to me that there are some
grounds for defending him, even in this. The Sul-
tan, undoubtedly, attempted too much at once;
but he felt the extreme urgency of his position be-
tween Russia, hostile on the one hand, and Egypt
advancing to emancipation on the other. He cer-
tainly concluded a treaty, giving very favourable
terms to Russia, when she was hard pressed by Napo-
leon, in 1812. He also, at the same time, rejected,
with great magnanimity, the offers of Bonaparte to
assist his invasion; and, unfortunately, he allowed
resentment at the conduct of Russia, in return, to
overpower the advice of the friendly states who re-
commended him to preserve peace. But Mahmoud
had no jealousies as to rival claims for his throne,
for he was the sole descendant of Othman at the
time ; and, with this feeling to strengthen him, he
was also aware that little time was to be lost for
the reforms he meditated, as none would undertake
them in case of his death.

The institutions of Christendom wrere adverse toAND HIS REFORMS.

9

the general feelings of the Turks, and their preju-
dices were strong; their consent could never, there-
fore, be obtained, and the gradual and slight inno-
vations he began with, rendered him an object of
suspicion to his own subjects. On the course he
adopted I need not dwell in detail; but may notice,
that the several grades in Turkish society are not
marked, or rather do not exist—all stand in open
and immediate relation to the sovereign alone,
sustaining and sustained by their own long-esta-
blished system; so that, unlike reforms in Europe,
he might hope, by altering the system at once,
to alter at the same time the feelings in propor-
tion. I do not say this was correct, but it was
far more probable and feasible in Turkey than in
Europe.

All monarchical reforms are liable to be unpopu-
lar, because they concede less than is desired by
the people; just as popular reforms appropriate
too much. The attempt to change the dress of
the nation was a bold step and ill-judged; for it
not only degraded individuals in their own eyes,
as to personal appearance, but assimilated the10

CHANGE OF DRESS.

nation to those whom they had ever been taught
to regard as enemies; it thus broke down one bar-
rier against the Russians. This change of the
national dress was not induced, like that of the
Highlanders in 1746, to bring a part of the nation
to join and intermingle with the rest, and thus
strengthen the whole. On the contrary, where it
produced in the nation generally any feeling be-
yond mortification and anger, it was evinced in a
sullen disregard of national spirit and institutions;
for, however we may affect to depreciate long-
settled habits and opinions, prejudices though they
are, they are still the depositories of higher and
better things.

Had the Sultan, in the first instance, under-
mined the firm and deep-rooted errors of his sub-
jects, instead of openly shocking them; had he
introduced and perfected, by degrees, a system of
education, and thus eradicated the evils, instead of
merely cutting them down, to spring up again, he
would have proceeded upon an intelligible basis,
and to success: but the changes he introduced
were not reforms, and were in many cases veryTHE JANISSARIES.

11

questionable, and in many more very unnecessary.
His decrees were chiefly confined to externals,
of habits and manners, rather than minds; and
while he thus sought to reform the upper ranks in
particular, and left the lower in their ignorance,
he was vainly endeavouring to build a new struc-
ture, that had no cohesion above, and no support
from below. There were no natives educated to
instruct the people, and foreigners were suspicious,
even had they been capable of doing this to any
extent. It was, however, the first experiment to
engraft European civilization upon Asiatic forms;
and, doubtless, many errors then committed might
be easily rectified in a second essay of the same
kind, and with the experience thus obtained.

But the 'most material of all Mahmoud's errors
was, commencing reforms which required time and
peace to consolidate and watch over, and turning
them suddenly to purposes of war.

As to the destruction of the Janissaries, though
the means are indefensible, I cannot consent, with
Mr. Slade, to hold them the guardians of popular
right, sufficiently to outweigh the ills their conduct12

THE JANISSARIES.

entailed upon peaceful citizens, and the mischiefs
they caused to the action of government in many
cases of emergency. They had their uses, per-
haps, but this was the usage of a past and ob-
solete period, and they opposed all changes,
except what they themselves approved. Proper
institutions should have supplied their place : but,
however criminal and barbarous the act that put
an end to their existence, I cannot think the opi-
nion wrong that considers the loss a real benefit to
Turkey. The vulgar there are not easily moved
in masses; perhaps not so moved at all; but, with
a government free to act upon the voice and wishes
of the people, these will reach the sovereign's ear,
either through the general notoriety of the fact,
or through the duly constituted bodies, such as the
mufti and ulemas, or doctors of the law, the con-
stitutional advisers of the sovereign; or else
through the viziers and other functionaries and
servants of the crown; and even, in the last case,
by popular outcries, with far less injury and danger
to all parties, than by the janissary process of in-
cendiary conflagrations and open revolution, andTHE PEASANTRY.

13

murders. If, as Mr. Slade observes, the popular
discontent has now no channel for utterance in
Turkey, this is no worse than in Persia and China;
both Asiatic kingdoms, yet both subsist, it would
seem, without it.

There is, however, a great want of the means of
internal communication in Turkey as in Spain and
Portugal. Roads, canals, and bridges, are in the
reach of every administration, and ought to be the
care of all who pretend to wish and effect the im-
provement of their country. With these induce-
ments and facilities for trade in the interior, the
state of the very numerous peasantry would be
greatly improved, as these, however willing to
labour, are really unable to get work; and in
search of this, and to avoid the tax-masters, they
and whole families flock to Constantinople, it is
true, but I cannot feel with Mr. Slade, that, in
conjunction with these causes, this accumulation
of individuals, in want and poverty often, is any
indication of the stability or prosperity of the
capital, or the institutions of a country.

The state of cultivation of the soil is also a14

CULTIVATION OF THE SOIL.

serious consideration; from want of encourage-
ment of exports, and of the means of transport
and communication, the growth is neglected, and
languishes in the country. Little more than is
needed for the support of the vicinity is grown in
many places where the soil would bring ample
returns for the outlay of labour, slight, too, as this
is: but the harvests are scanty and neglected; the
supply, even in this fertile land, is actually far
short of the demand; the capital itself is dependent
for supplies of this first necessary of life on Odessa
and the Russian trade, whilst its own fields and
native labourers are suffering from the negligence
of the government. The export of Turkish grain
ought at least, and in the opinion of natives them-
selves, to rival that of Russia, and would, with
proper encouragement.

The continuance of peace, for the necessity of
which all classes in Turkey are convinced, will
enable the administration to turn their attention
to these subjects, and also to the state of inter-
course with Egypt. The plague, it is remarkable,
is not indigenous to the capital, but, whenever itRECENT REFORMS.

15

occurs, it is attributed by the Turks themselves to
communication with Alexandria, direct, or through
Smyrna. A diminution of the visits of this dread-
ful scourge, and a modification of the quarantine
laws in the whole of the Mediterranean, would be
of the greatest advantage to trade in this quarter;
and proper precautions would, I feel certain, do a
great deal in both cases, for natives as well as
travellers, and commercial men.

It may be expected, before I conclude these hasty
ideas on Turkey, that I should give some account of
the existing system, and the reforms that have been
lately made in the Turkish empire, and the success
that has lately followed these changes; but this is
so difficult a part of my task, since a stranger,
after a short residence in the country, is incapable
of forming any very satisfactory opinion, that I
must content myself with a scanty outline, and a
few passing remarks upon this intricate question.

I have already said that the changes introduced
by Sultan Mahmoud were rather those of form,
appearance, and manners, than of institutions. I
may add, that the haste and levity with which16

THE LATE SULTAN.

many of tliem were made, and which, by their
nature and suddenness, produced a strong feeling
in the popular mind, joined with the admitted
errors of the late monarch's own character, to
induce the recal of several measures, through the
influence and arts of those whom the innovations
affected most disadvantageously, and who, by
successively flattering, or piquing the Sultan's
humours, obtained the end they sought. Mahmoud
had commenced by raising and attaching to his
person and designs various individuals of inferior
rank, and whose interests were thus, he considered,
bound up with his own. Some, of course, were
more deserving than others, but none of them, any
more than their master, had any thing like a
thorough knowledge of European countries and
their institutions; all, however, perfectly under-
stood their own interests; so that, whenever any
novel measure affected the views of these advisers
or their friends, they contrived to infuse doubts
into the Sultan's mind, and, by acting on his
vanity, which was great, or his passions, which
were strong, induced a fickle, contradictory, andRESCHID PACHA.

17

inconsistent course; sometimes yielding to popular
opinion, sometimes outraging it unnecessarily.
Hence he suffered very severe private mortifica-
tions, and, not knowing how to rectify errors, he
often committed excesses, to drown the pain he
felt.

At Mahmoud's death, Reschid Pacha was, per-
haps, the only one of the ministers who possessed
both the will and the real ability to carry out his
system properly, and to any great extent; and no
one that knows this equally amiable and able man,
can doubt that he was, in all respects, the fittest
minister at that time, and for that purpose. He
did not overlook the advantages of popular educa-
tion ; but this in Turkey was a singularly slow and
difficult task, and it had been grievously neglected
up to that time. There was then little or no pre-
vious and indispensable preparation in the public
mind for the changes which it was absolutely
necessary to introduce almost immediately; or
else the enemies of the new order of things, and
amongst these were the most influential persons of
the State, and Khosrew Pacha, above all, would

VOL. II.	C18

OFFICIAL EMPLOYMENTS.

have seized the opportunity of intriguing with the
public mind, and with the various functionaries
every where, to procure a return to the old sys-
tem. This, situated as the country was, would
have been its destruction; for the new order, once
established, could not be at once broken up and
exchanged for the old, without unsettling every
thing, and cherishing and confirming all the
defects and vices of both, giving impunity to the
corruption which had so early begun to manifest
itself in the new system equally almost with the
former.

But still there were some very great errors in-
troduced in all the departments of the government:
in the offices of state, in the capital, as well in the
machinery of the provinces, the already excessive
numbers of clerks, officials, and employes of all
kinds was increased, in order that, by the subdivi-
sion of labour, each portion might be properly at-
tended to: and very large salaries were bestowed,
with no attempt to discriminate ; calculated, it is
said, nearly on the scale of British appointments,
but, of course, far exceeding them in multitude, inPRODIGALITY OF THE STATE.

19

order to obviate the existing system of bribes and
extortions in all grades.

To encourage the various officials farther in the
due performance of their new functions, and attach
them to the government and its objects, the very
expensive presents, which in oriental countries are
bestowed as marks of high favour on deserving
functionaries of the upper class, and upon distin-
guished strangers, as proofs of the liberality of the
sovereign, were now given to merits of a very se-
condary nature at home; while a more parsimo-
nious system was adopted towards foreigners and
visiters. This last might be right, under certain
reservations; but it, at any rate, lowered the posi-
tion of the Ottoman Porte abroad, while the state
of the Sultan himself was lessened by it also ; but
the extreme profusion with which, as it is stated,
costly gifts were lavished on the parties alluded to,
not only impoverished the treasury of the empire,
but at the same time also created in the very re-
ceivers a thirst for fresh and constant acquisi-
tions.

The evil consequences of all this may be easily

c 120

RESCHTD PACHA'S ERRORS.

imagined: wealth became more than ever the in-
centive to action: the formidable body of col-
lectors of revenue and their officers could not be
subjected to the system of checks proposed for
them, because they were too numerous to be closely
examined, and too rich, and with too much at
stake, to hesitate at buying over, or ruining, if
they could not corrupt, those who were from time
to time appointed to inspect their proceedings.
The government, too, was distracted by the in-
trigues of the minister and his opponents, to sus-
tain or overthrow the new order; and, though the
talents, and real honesty, and good faith, of Reschid
Paeha were obvious, and for a very long time in
such a country successful, the errors he made,
some of them unavoidable, but serious, and the ne-
cessary imperfections in the working of a system
totally different from all that had ever been known
in the country, and requiring, perhaps, a far more
cultivated state of public intellect and relations to
operate effectively; all conspired to introduce much
confusion, doubt, and dissatisfaction, and weaken
the controlling power to a great extent. Thus,COMMERCIAL SYSTEM.

21

when the superintending power was impeded in its
vigilance, the minor authorities acted as they
pleased, and with little or no precaution, or alarm.

In addition to these causes, a very great diffi-
culty and embarrassment was created by the alte-
rations in the commercial system, and which were
fundamental. I know I may be told that the
Turkish mode was bad and faulty in the extreme,
and that the French system, from its completeness,
and the success of its procedure in its native
country, might be fairly considered the fittest for
transplanting to where an entire change was so
heeded.

It may be so, and, probably, this was the ground
of its adoption by Turkey: but the Turks were
not prepared for it: and I am by no means sure
that the general leaning "towards French institu-
tions of all kinds, observable in Reschid Pacha's
conduct, was best for the Turks. It is true the
French code amounted to an entire change of
system at home, after the great revolution; and
so far there was some similarity between the cir-
cumstances of the two nations; but the Turks had22

RUSSIAN POLICY.

had no insight whatever into the workings of any
code but their own ; and the stagnation consequent
on so complete, and, to them, wholly incompre-
hensible an innovation, was not less distasteful, be-
cause it seemed, and, in reality was, nothing but
an abandonment of their sacred law and lawgiver,
in favour of an infidel mode of procedure. Thus
religion aided the popular distress, and inflamed it.

Next comes the English treaty, which, amidst
the general stagnation, increased the duties on every
thing; affording a premium to smugglers, who have
increased to an enormous extent.

The merchants and others began to feel that
Russia alone would protect them; which, in fact,
and in consonance with her usual policy, this
power actually proceeded to do towards all who
sought her protection. The Christian population
of Constantinople, Mr. Slade says, are on the in-
crease, while the Turks are declining in num-
bers ; and perhaps this is correct: but, at any
rate, there is a constantly increasing sympathy
among the Greeks and Armenians towards the
Russians, as their prompt and more immediate,THE BRITISH EMBASSY.

23

as well as nearest defenders. The Haratch, or capi-
tation-tax, so severely felt in the provinces, the
rayah privilege, or berat, and the new imposts thus
transferred all the fealty of the Turkish subjects
to foreigners; for theirs, and especially Russian
protection, was all potent with the Ottoman go-
vernment, and was on the spot; while the British
Embassy was supine, and at the distant abode of
Therapia, as if purposely to avoid any promptitude
or effective interference in the very matters it was
its duty to watch and influence. Even when it did
intervene, the favourable moment had been antici-
pated by its rival.

Thus, then, while the real habits of the Turks
inclined them towards England, and perhaps also
Austria; and their feelings run in the same chan-
nel, as from these two powers they have nothing
they consider to fear; the steps taken by their
own government internally, assimilated them to
France, though the genius of the people, the
Turkish portion I mean, is totally estranged from
hers; and the external policy of the porte, and
the errors of the British ministry, forced the ge-24

THE FRENCH SYSTEM.

nerality towards Russia: a change to which, as I
said before, the Christian subjects of the porte are
already too much disposed.

I must think that the preference for the French
system in Reschid Pacha arises, in a great measure,
from this minister's thorough acquaintance with
the language and manners of that fascinating
people, while of English he is wholly ignorant.
This is a sad defect in a great minister and diplo-
matist at foreign courts at any time. But still
more so when he is called upon to weigh impartially
the different institutions of the great European na-
tions, that he may select from these the portions
best adapted for his native land at a particular
crisis.

I think it far easier to comprehend the Russian,
Austrian, and Prussian systems through French
spectacles and medium than the English : as the
entire spirit of our own country is totally opposite,
even in its modes of thought and phrases of lan-
guage to the French.

It will be objected that our institutions are the
slow growth of ages ; but too much stress, I con-COUNCILS.

25

sider, has been laid on this argument, as unfitting
our code for adoption elsewhere. But the first
discoverers in every thing arrive more slowly and
circuitously at their results; and, when once at-
tained, others can far more easily follow them. If
our system is as good as it is admitted to he, it will
allow of a much wider and more general application
than the reasoning I have alluded to would suffer,
though not in all its points. However, it is re-
markable, that while England was excluded, the
example of the United States, in one instance, was
followed: I mean, in the adoption of councils for
every separate department of state, if I am rightly
informed. Now, though this may very well suit
in a republican government, because, the general
rule being in the hands of many, the guidance of
each department may, without violation of this
principle, be assumed likewise by the many; and
this, perhaps, is the reason why no warm and gene-
rous impulse, or course of action, is ever charged
upon the American government; still, the regula-
tion introduces a slow and inefficient mode of
action in itself, and shifts, like councils of war, the26

TURKISH GOVERNMENT.

responsibility of the one upon many; in fact, does
away with it to a great degree. Whatever may
be the results in America, it must be allowed that
slowness and irresponsibility are not the proper
characteristics of a government in a crisis like that
of the Porte, where energy, vigour, and high resolve
only could expect to succeed in abolishing the
abuses and corruptions existing in both the present
and recent systems.

In a word, so far as I can understand the spirit
of these Orientals, they cannot, just yet at least,
be trusted with a complicated and intricate form
and code of regulations. Their pachas and gover-
nors, of all degrees, form a very simple, but bad and
violent machinery, it may be; yet with them it is
effective ; and, till a better principle is not merely
introduced, but established, by time, care, and edu-
cation amongst the common people ; and till they
can be brought to see the advantages of union,
order, and regularity, their blind and forced sub-
mission must be gradually and carefully relaxed,
and not thrown aside in haste, to the injury of their
domestic position, and their foreign influence and
relations.FINANCIAL DIFFICULTIES.

27

But what constitutes the most remarkable feature
of these changes is, that while all else was under-
going revision, the financial system was disregarded,
and no means of any energy were adopted to raise
the money requisite for the wants of the govern-
ment. The mines might have been made available,
but both native bankers and foreign capitalists were
either neglected or alarmed : the taxes failed; the
customs were diminishing, not only from the causes
I have stated, but from peculation and fraud also:
the people, the Greeks especially, would not pay
their quotas without being forced to it; paper-
money was tried without success; the currency
was depreciated; the suras, or councils, of peasants
in the different districts appointed to fix the sum
of taxation in each, all opposed the government
scheme; the provincial inspectors, who were anxious
to regain their lucrative posts, traversed the pro-
jects of their adversary; and the Ulemas, whose
authority had been superseded by the new commer-
cial system, increased and stimulated, covertly and
openly, also, the general resistance, assisted by the
intrigues of the minister's own colleagues. An28	RESCHID PACHA's OVERSIGHTS.

opinion was gaining ground that Reschid was a
theorist merely, and would ruin the nation to carry
out his notions : thus the ability of this minister,
and his unquestionable honesty, have been exposed
to a severe test. With all my opinion of his talents,
the neglect or injury done to the finances of his
country, even at this early period of his adminis-
tration, when the receipts are fast diminishing on
every side, force me to conclude that oversights
have been committed, which require time, prudence,
vigour, and also great modifications, to rectify.CHAPTER XVI.

Voyage to Smyrna — Appearance of Scio — The Greeks
unworthy the sympathy of Europe — Rough Weather — Qua-
rantine at Corfu — Arrangements and mode of Living in the
Lazaretto — Family Reunion — Comfortless Quarters at the
Club Hotel—Courtesies exhibited by the authorities at Corfu

—	Benefits conferred on the Ionian Islands, by the Lord High
Commissioners — A Visit to the College of Education for
Greek Youth — Excellent System of Tuition — Liberal Oppo-
sition—Greek Law of Divorce, and attempts at its Reform

—	Separation of the Civil and Military Government of the
Island — Opinions as to the strength of the Defences — Ne-
cessity of their being strengthened, and the Garrison increased
—Happiness of the People of Corfu—Intrigues of the Liberals.VOYAGE TO SMYRNA.

31

CHAPTER XVI.

We had strong winds through the Dardanelles
and at the entrance of the Archipelago. We were
anxious to run for Smyrna, but the wind blew so
fresh as to baffle the tacking of the yachts, unless,
indeed, we had taken more time in beating up than
I was willing to bestow on the effort, and merely
for the sake of passing a day or two at Smyrna.
The fact was, the season was getting so late, that I
could not be indifferent to the bad weather in the
Archipelago and Adriatic, so proverbial at this
season. I prevailed, therefore, on my companions,
Mr. Bentinck and Captain Lyon, to bear up for
Scio, which island we reached about mid-day on
the 5th. We landed, and witnessed the dreadful
desolation of houses overthrown, and a flourishing
city wholly destroyed; the Turks reeking their ruth-32

SCIO.

less vengeance upon it for striving to throw off their
domination, and declaring for the Greeks and in-
dependance. The place, however, is recovering;
merchants are settling there again ; the climate is
salubrious, and the spot one of the most charming
among the islands of the Archipelago.

With these I could not be pleased : I saw nothing
but large masses of rock rising out of the sea, and
of strange, uncouth feature, form, and fashion.
Sunset gives them their only charm; they are no-
thing in daylight. No woods, nor vegetation in
general, except at their base, where alone, and in
the lowest parts of the land, the little they have of
cultivation, is to be seen. The most singular cir-
cumstance in these barren, spotted dominions is,
that the towns are so frequently built on the very
summit of the wildest and highest crags. How
they are approached is difficult to understand. The
houses are of stone, but all with flat roofs, and
look more wind and waterproof also than their
Turkish neighbours within the Dardanelles. The
Greeks who appeared, generally look like degene-
rate examples of a fallen race. They do not meritTHE GREEKS.

33

the independence that has been so unwisely and
unnecessarily established for them; and, as Mr.
Slade says, in a passage of his interesting book, to
which I entirely subscribe,

" None have been more deceived in the Greeks
than the English, &c. Europe, if she have not
already opened them, will open her eyes, and be
ready to regret that she has done so much—Jjioken
old ties, and committed a great act	for

so undeserving a race."	ff j

From Scio we had a prosperous wale to Milo on
the 7th; but here the wind headed us^ccbmpanied
with torrents of rain, lightning, and thuMer^iir'"
fearful succession ; and we were forced to run for
shelter into Milo Bay, where, owing to the gale
continuing, we remained the following day, when
the yacht, although the weather was still most
unfavourable, beat out of the bay. It was a heavy
sea, and bad and sickening work. Clearing the
headlands before dark, we got into the open sea,
having the wind a-beam during the night, and made
a good run towards Cape St. Angelo, which we

VOL. II.	D34

CORFU.

passed, as well as Cape Matapan and Navarino.
On the 9th, though the weather was very tem-
pestuous and rough, and we suffered greatly in our
small cutter, the wind was not positively unpro-
pitious. Our vessel made Paxo, Ante Paxo, and
Corfu on the evening of the 10th ; but, not liking
running in by dark, we steered for the Albanian
eoast, got into a small bay for the night, and an-
chored in Corfu roadsted the following day, where
we found the Tyne frigate, Captain Townshend, at
anchor.

We were immediately visited by the quarantine
inspector and commander; and the yacht was or-
dered into the ground appropriated for the yellow
flag. So soon as we had made the necessary in-
quiries and arrangements, we learned, with great
sorrow, that we should have to pass a long qua-
rantine of fourteen or seventeen days, reckoning
from the 6th, the day we took a clean bill of health
from Scio. We could not get free before the
21st at soonest; and our troubles were in-
creased by hearing the quarantine station was
very bad, and in an island two miles off, where weQUARANTINE.

35

should be deprived of the comforts Corfu could
afford.

Under the kind assistance, however, of the Lord
High Commissioner, Sir H. Douglas, who showed
me every possible care and attention, we prevailed
On the quarantine captain, at the office of health,
to give us two rooms of his own on shore; and the
physician, who held the office of inspector of health,
had, subsequently, the very great kindness to vacate
his own lodgings, two really good rooms, with fire-
places. In these four small apartments we were
stowed away, ourselves and our servants, with
no inconsiderable satisfaction, on the 13th. In-
deed, although we had eight weary days to pass in
this imprisonment, I must say that as our friends
from the yachts came and dined with us each day,
as we had luxuries of all kinds sent from the gover-
nors, in viands, for the table; for the senses beau-
tiful flowers, and for the mind quantities of books
and newspapers, the time did not pass heavily nor
disagreeably.

To those who have not moved, or rather halted,
under the yellow flag, perhaps a short description

d 236	QUARANTINE ARRANGEMENTS.

Of what is usually endured in such a situation will
not be thought superfluous. In all places where
quarantine laws are in force, there is a small spot,
paled or railed off as a landing-place for the crews
of the vessels arriving. Here the officer and guar-
dians of health are placed. In a wooden hovel or
enclosure the conferences are held between those
arriving and those who are to examine and award
the length of quarantine, and determine when they
can receive a clean bill of health, or get pratique,
as it is termed.

In the conversations which are thus held, the
strangers are kept at arm's length; and if any
papers, documents, or any thing else, is to be
handed in or exchanged, it is put in boxes of tin,
or taken in upon pincers, and undergoes the pro-
cess of fumigating and smoking. Nothing can be
more rigid than these laws of pestilential and pes-
tiferous importance. The authorities or consuls
will never relax the least in their power or autho-
rity, and the number of days confinement or de-
lay in the Lazarattos, as these prisons are termed,
is calculated according to orders received as to theLIVING IN THE LAZARETTO.

37

state of the plague in different quarters, especially
at Constantinople. In going from Turkey, fourteen
days, as I have said, were imposed.

When you go out of doors for a walk, to breathe
the air within the space allotted to you, a guar-
dian with a stick is at your side; and, if any one
approaches to address you, he keeps him at due
distance. In fact, you never can stir without this
keeper; and our situation, from having been long
on board ship, so much required every comfort and
advantage we could obtain, that we were obliged
to make the men, women we wanted, and even
washerwomen, come from the town into the quaran-
tine with us.

Some Turkish piastres, which I desired to have
exchanged for Spanish dollars, I had to throw
into a tub of water; and the Greek authority
hardly then thought it safe to touch them. The
Lazaretto, at Syra, was cold, comfortless, and
abominable in all ways ; so it was fortunate
we came forward to spend our imprisonment at
Corfu.

Our friends were our society ; and the day38

COMFORTLESS QUARTERS.

before we were liberated (or obtained pratique) the
rest of our family most happily arrived from Trieste
by Ancona, in the fine Austrian steam-vessel, the
Mahmoud. And here I cannot help recording a
singular piece of good fortune ; namely, that having
divided my family into two columns of march,
separated by considerable distances, both by sea
and land, and subjected likewise to all sorts of
contingencies, illness, accident, or otherwise, the
union of all should take place on the island of
Corfu, and within one day of one divison of the
party getting out of quarantine to receive and em-
brace the other. It was impossible not to feel
grateful for circumstances so providential.

On the 21st of December we declined the very
kind offer of the Lord High Commissioner to lodge
in the Government house, and were installed in the
Club Hotel, on the Esplanade of Corfu. The inn
may be tolerable in the summer, and the people
were civil and moderate in their demands ; but, at
that period of the year, there being only one fire-
place in the house, the walls of wood or single
lath and plaster only, and neither doors nor win-LORD HIGH COMMISSIONERS.	39

dows shutting, we found the quarters very com-
fortless and disagreeable.

The utmost civility and cordiality was shown to
us; the general commanding the forces and gar-
rison (Sir George Berkeley), a particular old friend
and brother officer of mine in Spain, and the Pre-
sident of the Senate,, all in succession, gave great
dinner parties; and I was called upon to review
the garrison, and was most considerately conducted
over all the fortifications and other interesting and
important features of the place.

Since the Ionian islands have been in the pos-
session of England, much has been done for the
increase of their commerce, for the improvement
of their agriculture, and for the amelioration of
their condition, and especially as regards the
establishment of moral and religious institutions.
Of the three late Lord High Commissioners I
would observe, that unquestionably Sir Thomas
Maitland first laid those admirable foundations,
which his successors have carried out, and punc-
tually pursued. From all I could learn, the
great ability, firmness, talent, and decision, dis-40

SIR H. DOUGLAS.

played by this first Lord High Commissioner
will ever he recorded in the seven islands. Sir
Frederic Adam was an able and clever officer;
he seems to have run, however, into unnecessa-
rily large expences and luxuries, which, from all
accounts, Government was under the necessity of
liquidating. I consider a splendid country-house
built, at an immense cost, within a mile of the
palace in the town, and for the governor's own
private enjoyment, one of the greatest absurdities
that could have been committed. So much so has
this appeared, that the edifice is now abandoned
to the Government of the place. Next came Lord
Nugent; he let loose the liberal spirit, and wished
to accomplish great objects, but by strangely in-
adequate means.

To the present governor very much of real merit
and extraordinary labour and zeal in the perform-
ance of his arduous duties is to be ascribed. Lord
Guildford having, as it is known, founded an uni-
versity, though he left it unendowed at his death,
Sir H. Douglas, with great judgment and benevo-
lence, has established a college of education for oneEXCELLENT SYSTEM OF TUITION.	41

hundred of the Greek youth. It is admirably ar-
ranged ; and, for eight dollars a month, which is
the whole charge for learning, every Greek boy of
honest and worthy parents can obtain a perfect
education. It is established much upon the model
of the Russian institutions. Having inspected it
throughout, I can testify that, in cleanliness, order,
attention to diet, health, exercise, and general con-
duct, as well as for all the rudiments of learning,
it cannot be surpassed.

I was particularly struck by the director of this
establishment informing me that, since he has had
charge of it, he never had occasion to chastise or con-
fine any of his eleves. On inquiring how this remark-
able subordination could be maintained, and the
young men kept in due order and obedience, he an-
swered that it was done by his considering himself
their father, and acting as such to them all; address-
ing their feelings, appealing to their understandings,
and working on their affections patiently, quietly,
and with vigilant perseverance. I told the director
if he could once establish a system really effective
for this end, he would be conferring an inestimable42

SIR HOWARD DOUGLAS :

advantage on mankind. But I could not but doubt
and fear the efficacy of his plan in countries where
high-spirited, thoughtless youths were deaf to the
persuasive tones that might influence the intellec-
tual Greek.

Sir H. Douglas had to contend of late in Corfu
with the great efforts of the liberal factions to press
reform upon the government; and, while he was
desirous of introducing improvements in the laws,
especially of marriage and divorce, he with much
judgment opposed the extension of power which
the demagogues required. All this led to much
contention. The patriarch of Constantinople op-
posed the improvements suggested in some of the
legal ordinances of the church. As the Greek law
now stands, divorces can be had on the easiest pos-
sible terms. Collusion between man and wife, a
mere rough touch, suffices to establish cruelty, and a
bribe can obtain proof of the necessity of separation.
In marriages, there are many absurd, pernicious,
and unnecessary laws, which, for the happiness and
morals of the Greek people, had much better have
been modified. To accomplish these and manyHIS REFORMS AT CORFU.

43

other ameliorations, efforts were made by Sir
Howard; but the bishops and patriarch opposed,
and the latter, most hostile to English interests,
endeavoured to bring about disaffection and rebel-
lion. Lord Ponsonby, in consequence, at Sir
Howard's instigation, tried to induce the Porte to
suspend or remove the patriarch; but, perhaps,
owing to inertness or want of influence in the for-
mer, nothing effective has been yet accomplished.
In the midst of these and other very interesting
objects of legislation, Sir Howard Douglas receives
an order for his recall, for the purpose of placing
Mr. M'Kenzie Stuart, from Ceylon, in his place.
The civil and military government of these im-
portant islands was thus unsettled, at a moment,
considering our policy and position with regard to
France, teeming with difficulty and danger.

The right of the government and prerogative of
the crown to make what changes they think proper,
no one can dispute : but, when the naval and mili-
tary committees of parliament have decided that
the office of lord high commissioner should be
vested in one head, to fulfil the duty both of civil44

FORTIFICATIONS.

and military governor, and that, in all respects,
this plan has been found to answer, it is a perfect
Whig exercise of power to separate the military
and civil authority, merely for the sake of pa-
tronage.

The probability of a war with France had led
Sir Howard, most properly and judiciously, to
make every exertion for putting Corfu into the
best possible state of defence. This was the more
necessary, as the Whig government had very little
attended to any representations; and, certainly,
the defences that have been projected of late have
been carried on upon far too extensive a scale, more
especially if there are to be no troops to garrison
the place, nor guns to place in the batteries.

The fortifications are not confined to two cita-
dels at Corfu, but embrace very extensive works
on the island of Vido, to protect the entrance to
the roadsted. And I do not think five thousand
men at all too large a force to occupy and defend
this place, where there are at present only two
regiments, the 59th and 60th.

I am not disposed to speak positively as to the na-DEFENCES OF CORFU.

45

ture of the defences, or the views of, doubtless, very
able officers who have constructed them; but, in
my opinion, the island, if attacked at all, would be
attempted by a landing in the old Venetian bay; and,
were this accomplished, a superior force might sur-
round the fortress of Corfu, and, holding possession
of the country behind, starve out the garrison for
want of water as well as provisions. There is no-
thing to prevent a large fleet sailing into this bay,
whereas no fleet would attempt going near Corfu
or Vido; and if, instead of the very large scale of
their works, a martello tower or two had been
erected, and similar ones in the Venetian bay and
at other points, as appui to the troops opposing a
disembarkation, the arrangements, arid especially
for a small force, such as we must keep there,
would, in my humble judgment, be more judicious.

I doubt much, however, if the government at
home attend as they ought to the reports of the
governors of our possessions and colonies at a dis-
tance, or else surely Corfu would not be left with-
out guns; nor would the 42nd regiment have been
sent out, as I myself saw, to the island to relieve46	HAPPINESS OF THE PEOPLE.

the 59th, with the new percussion locks, but
wholly without any caps for them. This instance
of extreme neglect ought not to pass unnoticed.

The most active exertions were making by the
lord high commissioner to put Corfu into the best
state of defence his means afforded. He had drilled
his two regiments to practise the guns under the
able advice of Colonel Browne of the Engineers,
and had. additional batteries planted at the castle
and heights.

This island should be carefully looked after by
England ; the others are, in comparison, of no im-
portance. The people throughout them all, how-
ever, are happy, for how can they be otherwise,
when they pay no taxes, and the duties on oil and
some other articles cover all the government ex-
penees ? whereas in Greece every article is taxed,
and a payment even levied on land, the peasant
being forced to contribute to it, whether he culti-
vates the soil or not. How different, then, might
be the condition of these last — the same people,
from the same clime, of the same origin, and speak-
ing the same language ! and yet, with all these ad-INTRIGUES.

47

vantages in the Ionian islands, the discontented
liberals of Corfu are always actively intriguing
against British dominion and interests, because
they want to overturn those who are in the enjoy-
ment of the best places and situations.CHAPTER XVII.

Courtesy of Sir Howard Douglas—Appearance of Paxo, Ce-
phalonia, and St. Maur—Reported Brigandage of the Greeks—
The British Consulate at Patras—Uncomfortable Inns—Con-
veyance to Corinth placed at our disposal by the Russian
charge d' affaires — Hospitality of Sir Edmund Lyons—New
Year in the Parthenon—Immortal Memorials—Lords Elgin,
Byron, and Durham — Singular etiquette established at the
Court of Athens — Presentation to the King and Queen — A
Royal Dinner at Athens — The King and Queen of Greece —
Handsome Conduct of the King — Preposterous charge of the
agents of an Austrian Lloyd's Company's vessel.

VOL. II.

ECOURTESY OF SIR H. DOUGLAS.

51

CHAPTER XVII.

Having experienced every possible kindness
from Sir Howard Douglas, I was on the point of
sailing with my family for Malta, when he sug-
gested our seeing Athens; and, to facilitate this
object, placed the Ionian steamer at my disposal.

This was too tempting an offer to be refused;
so, framing a plan to fall in again with our chil-
dren at Zante on the way to Malta, Lady L. and
I, accompanied by Captain Lyon and Doctor
Forbes, sailed on the 20th December from Corfu
for Patras and Athens.

We ran down through the islands towards the
gulph of Patras on a lovely day, passing Paxo,
Cephalonia, and St. Mauro; but these islands have
only a very partially picturesque appearance, their
general features being crag and barrenness. The

E 252

PATRAS.

night proved boisterous, and the wind heading us
as we approached Patras, we thought it best to
run in, especially as we had ample time before us.

On going on shore to Mr.--, the consul's,

we found, to our great dismay, that the letters
sent by Sir Howard Douglas to Sir E. Lyons, to
announce our arrival, and prepare means for our
crossing the Isthmus of Corinth, were lying on
the consul's table, so that we had overtaken our
own advanced guard. In this dilemma we could
only remedy the evil by sending an express over-
land to Athens, begging Sir E. Lyons to communi-
cate as soon as possible with us on our arrival in
the Bay of Corinth, and also ask some ship at
Calimachi to take us through the gulph of Egina
to Athens.

All this, however, caused much unforeseen de-
lay ; and we stayed from the 28th to the 31st De-
cember on board our Ionian steamer, gradually
making way by Delphi to Corinth, but not think-
ing it prudent to risk leaving our steamer, even in
order to see either of these classic spots; in the
first place, because their distance was so greatGREEK BRIGANDS.

53

from the shore, and there was no carriage-road,
so that it would have been too fatiguing, and the
weather was also too cold for a lady to ride; and,
secondly, we heard unpleasant stories about the
brigandage of the Greeks in this part of the coun-
try. A boat's crew had lately landed from an
English ship, the purser loitered behind the rest,
and had round his neck a strong silver chain; this
it is supposed was the cause of his total disappear-
ance and too probably fatal end, for, on his party
returning to look for him, no trace of his existence
could be discovered. This story so new and so
alarming, threw a damp over the courage of our
female party.

Nothing appeared to me more deplorable than
the residence at Patras; a vice-consul, Mr. Robin-
son, assisted his chief; but what great business
there was to employ two official men there, I was
at a loss to discover. There seemed neither ships
nor trade; and in the whole place, from consuls
downwards, there was not a bottle of port wine to
be had. These gentlemen of the British consular
department are generally the kings or first magis-54

INNS AT PATRAS.

trates of the small ports where they reside, espe-
cially where there is a quarantine establishment.
They can be very great men, and some I have
found so; but they may be certain they hurt their
own interest and situations by doing only what
they are paid for, instead of protecting and assist-
ing all classes of their countrymen.

There were two nominal inns at Patras, one had
one fireplace in it and no stoves; the other none
of either. The one was full of vermin; the other
had not tables, chairs, or beds for four per-
sons. The consul offered his house if we chose to
take it, but it seemed displacing him and a large
family; and we never like to see and feel that we
inconvenience any one. The other places of halt
within the gulph are merely two or three barns or
rather outhouses, where Greeks keep a sort of
bazaar or booth for eating and drinking. They
are absolutely more filthy and wretched than any
thing I witnessed in Africa; and the people,
though strong and robust, have a hungry, cunning
eye, and an impoverished ensemble, which makes
you shrink from them in disgust and almost dread.CONVEYANCE TO CORINTH.

55

Such was my first impression of the classic land,
and such the general aspect approaching Patras,
Delphi, and Corinth.

We landed on the 29th, opposite Corinth, in the
hope of reaching Callomachi, and finding some
sort of habitation therein, to wait further tidings
of our conveyance across to Athens; but, on in-
specting the place, it was more abominable than
even Patras, so we were obliged to return and
sleep on board our steamer. On the 31st, in the
morning, we were going on an expedition in
the interior, when we discovered from our vessel
an estafette from Athens, sent overland; seiz-
ing the letters thus brought, we learnt that Sir
E. Lyons, finding he could get no aid from the
Greek authorities, had accepted the kind offer of

Mr.--, the charge d'affaires of Russia, who

placed a Russian cutter of war at our disposal;
and this was sent to wait our arrival at Calli-
machi. Not a moment was now to be lost, and,
instead of the exploit to the top of the fortress,
we got a small car, or dog-cart, into which
Lady L. and I mounted; and with three country56

A RUSSIAN SHIP.

waggons, escorted by Greeks, Russian sailors, and
our English party, we started across the Isthmus,
and arrived late on the 30th at Callimachi. The
Russian barges were ready at the miserable stone
place of embarkation; three of the cutter's boats
conveyed us on board; and, as the sun went down,
we found ourselves surrounded by a crew of fifty
Russian sailors, hoisting their sails, and raising
their anchor, by the various whistles which form
part of the maritime code of conveying orders in
the Russian navy. The vessel was cutter-rigged,
and not two hundred tons burthen.

The captain's cabin, appropriated to us, was
very small, but, as by the adverse wind, or rather
dead calm that rose, we found we should stay on
board all night, we divided the salon by a sail,
giving Lady L. one half, with her maid, and we
gentlemen took the other.

The Russian minister had not done things by
halves. He had provided a sumptuous dinner for
a ship-repast, sending his own cook and maitre
d'hotel on board, so we sat down to entrees and
entre-mets, which compensated for bad night accom-THE ACROPOLIS.

57

modation. At daylight we were still twelve miles
from the Piraeus, but not wishing to lose more
time, the captain saw our anxiety, and very good-
naturedly manned his three boats with more than
twenty of his crew, who rowed us twelve miles to
the shore. We landed at the Piraeus on the 31st,
about 11 a.m., and found our minister's (Sir
Edmund Lyons) carriages, with much attention,
waiting our arrival.

Sir Edward regretted not being able to lodge us
all in his house, as his daughter had just been con-
fined ; but he insisted on our dining with him every
day during our stay: and for this mark of kind
hospitality, as well as the other, and extreme
civilities we met at Athens, we are bound to be
most grateful. I opened the new year in the Par-
thenon, having been conducted to the Acropolis by
our minister, who insisted on being ciceroni to
Lady L. The impression these matchless and
magnificent ruins, of an undying glory, made upon
one not versed in scholastic lore, exciting, elevating,
and ennobling the mind with a sweet, though half
melancholy feeling, indicates what they must feel,58

IMMORTAL MEMORIALS.

who, with book in hand, and stored with classic
recollections, can wander over all this hallowed
ground, and tell the tale of every ruin, or recognise
the sight of every celebrated monument.

Sir Edmund, pointing to a hill at some short
distance from the Acropolis, observed—" In that
spot yonder Lord Aberdeen, with book in hand,
and a party of workmen, dug and discovered the
celebrated marbles in the British Museum. Yon-
der, on the top of that pillar, Byron wrote his
name, and lampooned Elgin for carrying them
away; and there, underneath, you may still read
Durham's title; he, when here, engraved his name
under that of Byron, and had all the earth, by
which he mounted to effect it, removed, that no
humbler name or mind might ever hereafter ap-
proach these two immortal memorials." These,
and a thousand stories of the place, sunk deep on
my mind; and I have no hesitation in recording,
that the spectacle of the Acropolis and the ruins of
Athens are the most extraordinary and impressive,
even to an ignorant eye, to be met with in the
world.SINGULAR ETIQUETTE.

59

To enumerate the ancient piles, the ruins, the
temples, and other interesting features, the won-
ders of Athens, is not my intention; all these
require more time and labour than could be com-
prised in many volumes. The sole, true way of
estimating them properly is, to go and visit them.

We passed our time at Athens with great satis-
faction and pleasure; our dinner at the minister's
was followed by a presentation to the King and
Queen of Greece. The etiquette King Otho has
established at his court is singular; all the men he
receives with the queen present; but he himself
receives no ladies; and no ladies, except those in
waiting on the queen, are ever allowed to dine at
court, though his majesty invites distinguished
gentlemen on such occasions. The queen's recep-
tion of ladies is in the morning, and in a walking
or riding costume. In conformity with this ar-
rangement, so different from that of all other
-courts of Europe, I had my audience of the king
and queen on a Sunday evening, just before they
were going to dinner: and I was asked to dine
with his majesty on the following day, on which60

THE KING AND QUEEN.

day also Lady Londonderry was received, in a
morning dress, by the queen, of whom she had an
hour's audience.

King Otho's dinner had the appearance of state
and splendour, but Athens is yet sadly in her
infancy as to modern living, luxuries, and enjoy-
ments. The table was handsomely decorated, but
the cuisine of Germany and of Athens was very
indifferent, as well as the wines. A good deal of
ceremony was observed, the Prince Royal of
Bavaria being present. He sat next the queen,
and I next his majesty. The king was in his
magnificent Greek dress, and generally wears it on
private occasions; but before his troops, or in
public, he puts on his new modern Greek uniform,
which is precisely the same as the Bavarian.

The queen is not tall, but graceful, and singu-
larly pleasing; and the king has an amiable man-
ner, with an expressive eye; but the rest of his
countenance is not prepossessing. He was ex-
tremely courteous, and proposed to show me, the
next morning, the Greek troops he had at Athens.
He also, knowing, I presume, my difficulty as toAN IMPORTANT FAVOUR.

61

getting back across the isthmus to the Corinth
bay to our steam-boat, in the handsomest manner
offered his own steamer for my service. This,
under the peculiar circumstances of the moment,
was not only a high personal honour, but was con-
sidered in the political circles as a return to those
good feelings towards England which, from various
causes, had been conjectured as for some time on

m

the decline. In mentioning this favour, I may
also state here, that some embarrassment had been
caused me by what I considered an exorbitant
demand for an Austrian Lloyd's Company's vessel,
which had brought the Prince of Bavaria to
Naples; she was still at the Piraeus, and on my
sending to hire it for the run of thirty hours to
Callimachi, the people asked sixty pounds, which
was more than I paid for steaming five hundred
miles in the Corfu and Ionian steamers. I thought
the charge preposterous, and I demurred, and hence,
through the kind medium of my old brother-
soldier, General Church, and the minister of the
interior, it came to the king's knowledge, and led
him to offer me his own vessel.62

AN EXORBITANT CHARGE.

Nothing can be more inexcusable than for a
great speculating company to allow their agents to
take advantage of persons placed under peculiar
circumstances, and almost without a choice, in
order to reap unwarrantable profits. I was heartily
rejoiced to throw my Austrian friends, the Lloyd's
Steam-company, overboard; more especially as I

felt they ought, in common decency, to have acted

*

fairly by me, for the services I was trying to ren-
der them.CHAPTER XVIII.

The King of Greece reviews his troops on the plains of
Athens — Their number — System of the Greek tacticians —
Peculiarity in their cavalry exercise — Hospitality of the
Austrian Ambassador—Miserable appearance of Athens—The
King's new Palace—Its defects—Places of worship—Immense
expense of the new Palace—Greece, as a constitutional mo-
narchy, more despotic in its government than when subjected
to the alleged tyranny of the Ottoman empire—King Otho
performs all the functions of the administration—General dis-
satisfaction — Employment of torture — Conference with the
King—Extract from a Letter from Sir Edmund Lyons, stating
that this conversation with the King has led to a change in his
majesty's opinions.GREEK TACTICS.

65

CHAPTER XVIII.

The king's review before the Prince Royal of
Bavaria and myself took place the 4th January, on
the plains of Athens. There were only two squad-
rons of lancers, six guns, two battalions of Greek
infantry, and a battalion of chasseurs—little more
than a parade of a guard. However, the king
shewed us a specimen of each corps exercising
separately. The Greek tacticians appeared to me
to have established a system of their own, interme-
diate between the Prussian and Bavarian ; and it
differs materially in many points from ours, in
which I think they are wrong. In their forma-
tions, they always place their artillery and cavalry
on the left of their line; this is evidently an error,
as in marching off from the right the cavalry and

VOL. II.	F66

CAVALRY EXERCISE.

artillery, which move the quickest, must be delayed,
and become unsteady in rear of the column.

Another point, trivial in itself perhaps, but at
the same time objectionable, is, that the line is
allowed to stand with their arms presented during
the whole time of the reviewing general's going
along it. Of course the men grow unsteady, and
the arms present the appearance of a worse align-
ment than if the men were at carried arms.

The cavalry exercise was peculiar, and injudici-
ous. They made the lancers charge in column, so
that all the rear divisions are in a melee with
the front. But enough of this; for, I admit,
the Greeks are but very young beginners in mo-
dern military movements; the soldiers are nimble,
active, and intelligent; and, if things are carried
on by the government in an efficient manner, all
may be rectified and improved.

After the inspection, the king, on alighting,
begged me to follow him to his closet, in order to
have half an hour's conversation.

We had to assist at a great dinner prepared for
us by the attentions of Count Probet, the AustrianAPPEARANCE OF ATHENS.

67

ambassador; and, I must say, that the Austrians,
as well as our Russian friends, availed themselves
of every occasion in their power to do us honour.

The Austrian minister's wife is a very charming
person, and a first-rate musician. She played beau-
tifully after dinner at her own musical soiree;
which we left early, as we were obliged to embark
at the Piraeus at six, in order to get across the
isthmus the following day before dark.

Considering Athens as a capital, it is, at the
moment, poorer and more miserable than could be
imagined without inspection. A general plan has
been adopted for re-arranging and re-building the
old town. At present the houses rise here and
there, as sites are taken or merchants choose to erect
them. A commencement of paving the streets is
attempted, but the filthy bazaars have not been
improved into good shops; and the mixture of
ruin and restoration, the attempt to mask want
under a show of display, are very remarkable. The
police regulations of the town are strangely neg-
lected, the dirt and abominations in it are shocking,
and the more to be deprecated as a little diligent

F 268

THE KING'S PALACE.

care and attention would remedy the most glaring
nuisances.

At the top of the leading street of the city, and
now in rapid progress towards completion, is the
new palace for the king. The view from it is very
fine, having the Acropolis, the Parthenon, and the
Temple of Jupiter on its left, with the Piraeus and
ocean beyond; in the eentre is the town of Athens,
with the Temple of Theseus and other antiquities;
while from the right your eye stretches over the
mountains of the Peloponnesus. But further than
the emplacement I cannot praise; neither the archi-
tectural plan nor the construction of the royal resi-
dence. There is not a fine room in the building; and
the saloons for receiving company are placed in dark
courts behind, instead of being open to the beau-
tiful scenery which the spot commands.

There are no less than three chapels, at three of
the corners of the edifice ; one for Catholics, inclu-
ding the king; another, a Protestant chapel, for
the queen; and a third, a Greek church, for their
children, who, it is agreed, are to be brought up in
that faith. At present, after four years, there are
no signs of offspring. The crown, however, inITS IMMENSE COST.

69

failure of issue,, descends to the next brother in
Bavaria ; and it is specially provided by treaty that
the crowns of Bavaria and Greece cannot be placed
on the same head.

The columns, pilasters, and windows of the
palace are of the finest marble and stone; the lat-
ter, however, all of equal size, and very small in
their proportion, run in straight lines along the
facade, and give it the appearance of a barrack,
or hospital. It is true there is a colonnade, but
it is low, small, and destitute of effect. The
main walls of the building are (strange to say) con-
structed of rubble, like park walls, not even ashler
being used; and the contrast between the cornices of
cut-stone, and the facing of the whole with rough
mason-work, is absolutely lamentable. It is said,
however, that, such as it is, this palace 4ias already
cost three hundred thousand pounds, and that six
hundred thousand will not finish it; but where the
money is to come from to pay for what has been
done, much less to encounter the expences to the
end, no one can divine. The roof is covered with
zinc, which is stated to be as good as slate. Bava-70

STATE OP GREECE.

rian sculptors, painters, &c., are employed in num-
bers from Munich to work at this building. Such
is the new palace at Athens and its prospects.

I will now sketch my humble views of the posi-
tion of this unhappy country of Greece, as far as
its political interests are concerned, its government,
its actual state, and the consequences that seem
impending.

It is one of the phenomena in the legislation of
the last ten years, that a nation, abstracted from
an adjoining empire under the pretext of des-
potism and tyranny exercised over it by the latter,
should now exhibit, under the mere semblance of a
nominal and independent sovereignty, a far stronger
example of bad government, and without one half
the security for the person and property of the sub-
ject, than ifr did when under the sway of the Otto-
man Empire; from which the makers of kingdoms
have thought proper to tear it away.

But such is the fact. A constitutional monarchy
was solemnly promised to this nation; and when
their national assembly was sitting at Athens, the
French and English ministers went to them, andKING OTHO'S GOVERNMENT.

71

declared, in the name of their governments, that,
if they would separate, an immediate plan of con-
stitutional administration should be established.
On the faith of these declarations they dissolved ;
ten years have now passed over; and instead of
any approach towards fulfilment of the promise,
the Greeks are at present under more abject domi-
nion and more in the sovereign's sole power, than
when belonging to Turkey.

When Count Armansperg was directing the
ministry at Athens, I understand there was a sort
of communication between the allied ministers and
the government, under a creditable and seemingly

responsible minister. Since his departure, every

«»

thing of business is transacted by a clerk, with
whom the accredited envoys will not communicate;
the king himself performs (in imitation, I suppose,
of Louis Philippe or Napoleon) all the functions
of the administration; he is chef of the depart-
ments; and he manages the finance, having none
but Bavarian ecrivains employed in the offices.
He has not allowed the nation to see a budget for
three years. His councils of state are never called72

GENERAL DISSATISFACTION.

together, nor if they were, could it be of much
avail; as, by some preliminary arrangements,
framed artfully at Munich, the council was
formed with an understanding that they could
only accept or reject what was placed before them,
but could neither initiate nor deliberate on other
points. So they are merely nominal, and wholly
useless. The king's ordinances prevail over all
laws. The appointments, civil and military, are
given to Bavarians; and the officers in the service
from Bavaria are said to treat the natives like
slaves. All parties seem in arms against the king,
and are violently declaiming that things cannot
remain as they are.

This state of affairs alarms his majesty, but he
has too little experience, I fear, to extricate him-
self. Like a child who has grasped all the enjoy-
ments of a toy, he is unwilling to part with any
portion of it, and especially that which puts it in
motion, and which is the most interesting. In the
late disturbances in the interior, and the threatened
insurrections, I fear that torture has been resorted
to, for punishments and confessions ; this is mostA ROYAL CONFERENCE.

73

unfortunate, to use the mildest term, as it greatly
adds to the unpopularity of the young monarch.

After the review, when he was pleased to enter
fully with me into the state of his kingdom, I told
him with the utmost candour all that I had learnt;
observing, that it might possibly be in some mea-
sure exaggerated; but I was afraid, unless the
whole system was changed, a crisis would arrive
which might prove fatal to his majesty.

To do him justice, he heard me with the utmost
patience and good humour; stating, certainly
with ability and ingenuity, his own embar-
rassments. His majesty urged that the allied
ministers did not treat him fairly. They would
not communicate with the person he had named as
his minister. It was difficult for him to choose
one; he was looking out for the best, but in the
mean time they had no right to abstain from
acting with the individual he nominated ; he had
the full power to name his own minister. Again,
if he showed favour to one of the accredites
more than another, the rest were jealous and
up in arms. He was accused wrongfully about74	THE KING'S JUSTIFICATION.

the finance; the Greeks were anxious for the out-
lay on particular favourite objects; but his great
desire was to make his army and military defences
strong. He was accused unjustly of ordering tor-
ture to be inflicted, which he never had done. In
short, his majesty made out his own as a much
aggrieved case; but, from the universal opinion
and impression against him, some change, or crisis,
appeared to be approaching.

The Prince Royal of Bavaria honoured me by a
long conference. He was sent there to aid and
assist his brother: this he did not deny; and I
begged him to consult with all the persons round
him, especially Sir E. Lyons and General Church,
and I felt satisfied he would obtain the best in-
formation upon which he could found his opi-
nion ; for two abler men, or two more competent
statesmen for Greece than the above two dis-
tinguished characters, could not be found.

It was a great satisfaction to me to find, from
various persons, after this interview, that my re-
presentations had, in some degree, been listened
to by the king; and some went so far as to pro-LETTER OF SIR E. LYONS.

75

nounce, they would be the forerunner of a new
sera, and of a constitution to be given to the nation.

The annexed extract of a letter from the mini-
ster, Sir E. Lyons, is interesting as to this point.

" The king was much pleased at your having
written to him; your lordship will be glad to hear
that your conversation with the king has had at
least the effect of making his majesty promise to
adopt, in some degree, your opinions.

"Athens, 10th January, 1841."CHAPTER XIX.

Leave Athens—Honours of the Harbour—Rapid voyage to
Zante—Inferior steam-boat—Description of Zante—Earth-
quakes—Trade in currants—Society at Malta—Recent Im-
provements—Splendid orange-trees—The Harbour—Civil and
Military Government — Dinner Parties of officers who had
served in the Peninsular War—Palermo—The Sicilian army—
A hard gale—Naples.EMBARKATION.

79

CHAPTER XIX.

We were obliged, on the morning of the 6th, to
leave Athens very early for the Piraeus, about six
or seven miles distant, in order to embark in the
king's steamer, the " Otho," for Callimachi, on the
isthmus of Corinth; it being necessary to traverse
that space in daylight, and reach our Ionian vessel
in the Gulph of Patras before nightfall. On em-
barkation we were saluted by the Russian brig and
cutter of war in the harbour, the officers coming on
board to pay their respects; and we got under
weigh, with all the honours of the harbour. About
eight a. m. landing, after a five hours' steaming
in a most commodious and superb boat, on the
isthmus, and then taking cars and carts for our
baggage, we travelled fast, and, getting on board
our own ship before dark, immediately made sail
for the island of Zante.80

CITY OF DUBLIN.

We heard from Admiral Louis that a fine steamer
would touch there, on her passage from Corfu to
Malta, on the 7th. We had directed our children
to take their passage from Corfu in this vessel,
to meet them at Zante. The winds and weather
being propitious, and all our other arrangements
being so fortunately settled at Athens, we actu-
ally arrived at Zante two days before the steamer
from Corfu. But this was partly occasioned by
the admiral's being disappointed in the steamer
he was to have sent, and being under the ne-
cessity of despatching a most ill-conditioned and
badly-found boat, the City of Dublin, which had
been imposed on the government by a contract
improvidently made, relative to the conveyance of
mails and passengers from the islands to Malta.
This vessel, formerly on the Liverpool station, was
wholly unfit for the service which she was destined
to perform.

However bad we found the accommodation in
the vessel, we were favoured by the heavens, and
had a calm and very favourable run to Malta, where
we arrived on the 9 th; and were immediately placedISLAND OF ZANTE.

81

in the quarantine harbour, to suffer eight days'
more infliction of the pains and penalties of a
lazaretto.

I ought not to pass by Zante entirely without no-
tice. It is one of the most picturesque of the Seven
Islands. Nothing can be more beautiful than the
view from the height above the town, which forms
an amphitheatre below of so extended a nature,
that in nothing does it fall short of the bay of
Corfu, in splendid scenery and effect; and justifies
the couplet—

" Zante, Zante,

Fior di Levante,"

The island had lately felt some very severe shocks
of earthquake; and Colonel Campbell, of the 38 th
regiment, who commanded the garrison, and had
his quarters on the top of the mountain, had the
barracks and his rooms shaken to pieces, and nar-
rowly escaped destruction. Great mischief was
done in various parts of the town; but so little
fear do these motions of the earth inspire where
they are frequent, that all the houses were building

VOL. II.	G82

TRADE IN CURRANTS.

up again on the same spots, just as if the devasta-
tions had been produced by a common fire.

Major Parsons is the Lord High Commissioner's
civil deputy, and manages the tribunals of law and
justice. The people were stated to be turbulent
and discontented; and, as wine here is not more
than a penny a bottle, it was very difficult for the
officers to keep their men sober, and free from the
evils of association with the inhabitants.

The trade in currants is the principal commerce
of this island; and, at the drying season, the ex-
tensive valley where they are gathered presents a
scene of animation very rare and attractive. The
currants are spread out, night and day, on large
platforms, which, at dark, are lighted up, in order
that the fruit may be kept continually turning, and
in a regular process of drying. This valley and the
height above the town form the most picturesque
views of the place. It is famous for silk manu-
factories ; and many beautiful Greek handkerchiefs
are bought here. There are very few English mer-
chants in the island ; though there is one who has
lately laid out seven thousand pounds on the houseSOCIETY AT MALTA.	83

*

he resides in, which to-morrow's dawn may see
swallowed up by the convulsions of the earth.

Our yacht friends arrived at Malta three or four
days after us, starting about the same period. This
is an instance of the superior certainty of steam-
navigation over sailing; and, whatever may be the
greater inconvenience of the former, especially in
indifferent vessels, still it affords regular periods by
which you can calculate your proceedings, despite
the uncertainty of winds, calms, and sails; and
this is very agreeable to those who have a distaste
and horror of the sea.

It is useless to paint the weary moments of an
eight days' quarantine. We were released from it
on the 27th; and, on the following day, were en-
tertained at the palace by the governor, at one of
his reception dinners.

The society at Malta consists generally of the
garrison, naval officers and their wives, and occa-
sional visitors. The Maltese associate little or not
at all with the English; and, after forty years' pos-
session of this island by the British, I do not think
there have been more than two or three intermar-

G 284	CLIMATE OF MALTA.

*

riages. Indeed, I am of opinion that the islanders
do not yet believe Great Britain means to keep
permanent possession of their country; although
Queen Adelaide's late visit, her endowment of a
bishopric, and foundation of a magnificent church,
should now lead them to consider that these measures
have not the appearance of a mere temporary pos-
session.

Occasional visitors and persons of note, especially
since the great steam-conveyance has been so suc-
cessfully and splendidly established with Malta, add
much to the society of the place. Since the royal
visit, Malta has been brought far more into repute,
as beneficial, from its climate, for English invalids ;
and as being more quiet, and cheaper, as to living,
than Italy; but with even this acquisition, it is im-
possible not to pronounce it a dull and dreary
residence. A scorching sun, dust, and white stones
on all sides; rocks above, rocks below, stone walls
around; without a tree to shade, or a hedge-row to
shelter; make the climate unbearable in summer,
out of doors : and, in winter, although there is
neither frost nor snow, the general dreary, pave-THE HARBOUR.	85

ment appearance of this calcareous rock would
make it intolerable to dwell in, were it not for its
most perfect and unequalled orange-trees, with fruit
of such size and flavour as are not to be excelled
in any clime in the world, unless it is to be found
in the Bahamas. This luxury is the greatest in the
island, which Lord Byron so aptly describes as the
little military hotbed of the Mediterranean.

Malta is increasing in wealth and prosperity ; a
free press is filled with radical tirades, that seem
designed for the natives of this and similar de-
pendencies to disgorge their spleen in froth and
slaver. They are worth little or no attention:
but it was a mistake in our Secretary of the Colo-
nies, not to have established the English language
as the current tongue of the place: it had more
claim than the Italian, which is as foreign to the
Maltese as to the English. Had this been other-
wise, the natives would have more easily amal-
gamated with the English.

Malta being the great naval station in the Medi-
terranean, the fine harbour, flanked by many and
strong forts, is always full of ships of war; and an86

CIVIL GOVERNMENT.

excellent naval arsenal is established now under
the orders of Sir John Louis. The different works
are in good order, and have been more attended to
here than elsewhere. There were five regiments in
garrison, which is as little as the place ought to
have.

The civil government is managed by the civil
secretary, under the colonial Secretary of State.
The military government is confined to the troops,
and is rather an inferior post, but still a tolerably
good appointment of five thousand pounds per
annum for a major-general: except in war, it is
wholly devoid of interest, and very monotonous.

The governor lent us his country-house, where
we stayed nearly three weeks, and nothing could
exceed Sir H. Bouverie's kind attentions to an
old brother officer. We had several dinner-parties
in the town, and one of a military nature to
Lord Lynedock and myself, from the officers of
the garrison who had served in the Peninsular
War. These numbered about twenty. Some
few years more, and how many of them will be
surviving ?CITY OF PALERMO.	87

On the 1st of February we sailed for Palermo,
on the way to Naples, in company with the Teresa,
the Merlin, and the Dream; leaving .our heavy bag-
gage to follow in the steamer on the 6th.

We anchored in the Bay of Palermo on the
3rd, having had but an indifferent passage; the
weather being calm, with light winds.

The entrance under the towering height of Pel-
legrini is commanding, and the city looks beautiful
from the deck of the bark that enters. The Pa-
lazzo Reale, and the Favorita, both belonging to
the crown, the church in the former, and the pa-
goda in the latter, well merit the attention of the
traveller, and will amply repay his curiosity.

Palermo is said to resemble Dublin, it being to
Naples as the Irish metropolis is to London, and
managed by the King of the two Sicilies much in
the same way.

The place has seen its best days, and is evidently
in a state of decadence. The hotel was wretched;
seldom has it a guest, or a visitor. In the princi-
pal streets, however, there seemed some movement,
commerce, and trade. The sulphur question having88

EXCURSION TO NAPLES.

alarmed the Sicilians, had caused them lately to
put the defences in good repair. And there were
about five thousand men, cavalry, artillery, and in-
fantry, whom I saw reviewed. They were not
badly appointed, but ill-disciplined ; the cavalry,
mounted on heavy animals, had the movement of
cows, rather than of horses.

On the 6th we left Palermo, and had a beautiful
run towards Naples, until we made, on the morning
of the 8th, the island of Capri; here, with our ac-
customed ill-fortune, a hard gale of wind arose, and
we were terribly knocked about in the cutter for
several hours; but eventually got into the bay a
few hours afterwards, and had the happiness to see
the steamer arrive direct from Malta with the rest
of our party, and all in health and safety.

On the 8th we were established in the Hotel de
Belle Vue, and on the "LOth in the Hotel Vittoria,
at Naples.

It was after a short stay at Naples that I received
from England the sad news that the Almighty had
thought fit, in his wisdom, and for purposes alone
known to an inscrutable Providence, to allow myDESTRUCTION OF WYNYARD.	89

residence at Wynyard Park, in the county of Dur-
ham, to be utterly and entirely destroyed by fire ;
with only the offices and some pictures and furni-
ture saved, by the interposition and spirited conduct
of the neighbouring population. To describe at all
the manner this misfortune bent me to the earth is
a task beyond my pen. The cares and anxiety of
twenty years — the chief of my worldly, inanimate
blessings — and the idol upon which my existence
had long depended—all became at once enveloped
in the thoughts of that heap of smouldering ashes,
in which they were now buried. As the extent
of the calamity could be known only to myself—
as losses were sustained that nothing can ever re-
place, so is it best to draw a veil over one's own
miseries, and with meek humility bow to the will
of God, hoping that a merciful Creator, while he
knows how to inflict, can equally determine the
mode of pouring balm into the wound.

It may well be imagined, upon such an event, all
faculty of writing—I would almost add of speaking
—vanished; and it was in vain for me to attempt
finishing the details of the tour I had commenced,90

RETURN TO ENGLAND.

when I was entirely bereft of the power of thought
but upon one sad subject. I laid down, therefore,
my pen; and we proceeded from Naples to England
with the least possible delay.JOURNAL

OP

A TOUR

IN THE

SOUTHERN PART OF SPAIN,

INCLUDING

TANGIER, CEUTA, AND TETUAN;

PERFORMED IN THE AUTUMN OF 1839.PUEFACE

TO

THE SPANISH TOUR.

Having made with my family an excursion to
Portugal, Spain, and the south of Europe, as well
as the coast of Africa, in the autumn of 1839;
and, finding that some fifty copies or more of a
manuscript I wrote had got circulation through
magazines to the public, I have thought it as well,
upon the present occasion, to add to my Turkish
tour a more correct and detailed copy of that to
Spain; and I do it the rather, as in one part of
the former publication (that was partially known)
some strong allusions were made to a Spanish
general officer (General Olalor), who manages the
Duke of Wellington's estates in Spain, in the Sote94

PREFACE.

de Roma. Since that period I have learned, from
the highest and best authority, that the information
given to me, and on which I relied, was exagge-
rated, and not borne out by the facts. I have much
satisfaction, therefore, in entirely omitting them in
the present altered edition; nothing would be more
painful to me than to write observations that could
possibly be interpreted otherwise than as the true
record of an impartial traveller on the spot from
whence he wrote.CHAPTER XX.

Steam-ships—Their expence and accommodations — Disas-
trous Weather—Our Vessel strikes in the dead of the night—
Alarm on board—Arrival at Vigo—The British Consul there—
Recognition of the country after thirty years' absence—Change
created in the lapse of time—Arrival at Lisbon—Palace of
Marialva — Courtesy of the English Admiral — Diplomatic
School on the banks of the Tagus—Civility of the Due de
Terceira — Funeral Ceremony in honour of Don Pedro's me-
mory— Signs of poverty and decay in Portugal.THE BRAGANZA STEAMER.

97

CHAPTER XX.

Having resolved on visiting the south of Europe,
and spending the autumn and winter in a more
genial climate than the north of England, which
did not agree with that health, the most valued
and important in the circle to which it belonged,
I engaged the best accommodation I could procure
for my family in the Peninsular Navigation Steam
Company's ship, the Braganza, to take us to Lis-
bon. Some friends had proposed sailing in yachts;
others had suggested hiring a vessel for three
months to attend upon our plans and projects;
others again reprobated long sea-voyages for a
young family; and since, as happens in all similar
cases, no two consulting friends agreed, I was
forced to the alternative of my own chance decision.

As to yacht sailing, I hold it cheap; in bad

VOL. II.	H98

YACHT SAILING.

weather few gentlemen artists of the yacht tribe
are fond of facing the Bay of Biscay in a gale of
wind. The vessels are trimly decked, and above
all well-stored aboard; and come forth, like sum-
mer flies, with the ladies they can persuade into
their craft. They issue from their anchorage at
Cowes, and, when fairly at sea, every thing con-
nected with sails, masts, rigging, steering the vessel, •
giving directions, taking observations, noting the
chronometer, and keeping the reckoning, is handed
over to the professional deputy on board ; that is, 4
some half-pay captain or naval officer, master or
mate, whom the amateur has enlisted in his espe-
cial service; and when the storm arises and the
tempestuous winds blow, these gallant barks are
sure to be heard of as putting back into Torbay,
Plymouth, or Falmouth harbours, until the next
fair wind sets in. I must, however, say, that to
all general rules there are especial exceptions; and
although my criticisms may attach to the majority,
I can, from my own personal knowledge, declare
that some owners of yachts are not only expert
sailors and admirable seamen in all ways, but IFALMOUTH PACKETS.

99

question if our service can produce better than some
men I could name.

I found I could not hire a steamer, all expenses
included, under £800 or £1000 per month, and
probably even then it would be ill-found and ill-
appointed ; and therefore I paid £300 to take my
party at once from Blackwall to Lisbon. I may
however observe, that I ran down with Lady Lon-
donderry to Falmouth, and embarked there.

The steam-ships of this (the Falmouth) Company,
who contract with the government to carry the
mails weekly to the southern parts of Europe, are
very fine vessels. The four principal are, the
Tagus of 1000 tons, the Braganza, Royal Tar, and
Liverpool, of 800 each. The accommodation in
beds and cabin, however, is far too confined;
people seem stowed away more in contemplation
of close packing for increased gain, than with any
real regard for convenience or comfort.

This was the worst feature of the arrangement
in our own case: I think we had sixty first-cabin
passengers. Now, let any one conceive sixty
maitres and all their servants assembled in a noble-

h 2100

STEAM-BOAT SOCIETY.

man's or gentleman's country residence, and it will
be allowed that they create no small confusion,
even where space and convenience are ample: but
when all this number is concentrated in one saloon,
boarded off and divided at the lower end into small
cabin compartments, each holding five or six close
berths, in which you must lie as in your coffin,
with scarce room to turn, I think it will be ad-
mitted that the love of gain should yield to a fairer
and better arrangement.

The passengers of the first cabin all dine and
breakfast, &c., at one general table d'hote, the cap-
tain sitting at the head. The mixture of the society
is as motley as their tastes; and while the most
delicate are only venturing on chicken broth or
barley water, their robust and boisterous neighbour
is swallowing bottled porter, onion soup, or eggs
and bacon. So, likewise, there is the high-bred,
well-informed English gentleman, closely seated
by the fat, ill-favoured, greasy Portuguese wine-
merchant. These steamers, however, partake of
the inconvenience now introducing and created by
railway travelling: all is leading to a levellingA STRANGE SCENE.

101

system ; and as in the railway I know, as I have
already stated, that a titled lady, with her beautiful
and accomplished daughter, were obliged to enter one
of the public carriages where sat a malefactor in
irons with a constable on each side of him, so in the
steam-packets, the high and the low, the vulgar and
the polished, the delicate and the canaille, are all
crammed into one grand reservoir together. That
this is advantageous I question; that it ought to be
otherwise, I am sure; unless our existing system of
morals and conduct is to be overthrown, and reform
in legislation accompanied by levellings in society.

From the beauties of Devonshire you come to
the wilds and mines of Cornwall, and Falmouth
roads are peculiarly picturesque. To pass from
the sublime to the ridiculous, our party were to be
called at an early hour, Sept. 16th, to go on board
the steamer; I have already described how full
it was stowed. Many passengers had remained a
week at Falmouth to sail in this preferable vessel,
the Braganza. I slept little the last night on shore,
but was disturbed at six in the morning by a
violent ringing of bells. I thought the house was102

AN ALARMING CHARACTER.

on fire, and rushed into a long passage to see what
had occurred. In the midst of it, and at the
threshold of one of the doors, I beheld the uncouth
figure of a man, bawling at the top of his voice,
and with the lungs of a Stentor, after the chamber-
maid, who seemed deaf to his attractions. The
frame or garniture of this pictorial object riveted
my attention. He was about as broad as he was
long, and very nearly in the simplicity of nature,
except a very short and indifferent apology for a
shirt not half the proper length; a protuberance
before corresponded exactly with a sub-sequent
rotundity: his head was quite bald, and his face
equipped with two immense white whiskers meeting
at the chin.

Such was the amiable apparition that was striving
to invite the damsel to his side ; but his loud cries
and singular appearance apparently frustrated
his object; for although the two or three maids,
after long delay, collected at the end of the pas-
sage, they were so fearful of approaching, that they
summoned the Boots, and poked him on to ascer-
tain if the creature was human or a ghoule, orDISASTROUS WEATHER.

103

simply belonged to the oran-outang tribes. He
turned out, however, to be a Mr. B., an Oporto
wine-merchant, who was as insufferable during the
whole passage as he was alarming to the chamber-
maids at starting.

The commanding officer of the navy at Falmouth,
Captain ——, sent us on board in his barge; the
collector of the customs and others attending our
departure. The 17th and 18th were days of violent
wind from the south-west, with squalls, lightning,
and thunder. Unfortunately we had embarked at
the time of the equinox, and we began to feel the
effects of this well-known period of stormy weather.

Our vessel made little way, but gallantly stood
up to the wind, and otherwise proved herself a good
boat. It was impossible to have more cruel wea-
ther for the passengers. In a furious gale we
might have layed to and not felt so much motion ;
but the heaving and lurching of a great steamer in
squalls, accompanied with lightning and rain, sur-
pass all description.

We flattered ourselves, however, on the 19th,
that the worst was over; but how little can they104	THE SHIP A-GROUND.

calculate, and how futile are all the expectations
of those, who once embark on the wide seas! I
had been on deck, inquiring of the captain if the
coast off Cape Finisterre and Vigo was not rocky
and dangerous; and as he seemed to be steering
closer to shore, round the cape, suggested to him
that, as the night appeared thick and dark, we
had better keep farther to sea. He informed me
there were some isolated rocks under water about
three miles and a half from the shore, but their po-
sition was known; that he knew all the bearings
of the land, and was quite sure of his course. I
know not why, but, without being a fatalist, I had
a strong presentiment that some mischief or other
would occur, and stayed on deck a long time. It was
one of those blackest of nights that bury heaven and
earth together in murky clouds of wind and rain.

Completely tired out at length, I turned into my
berth about twelve. None of the passengers, I
believe, coujd rest; the women were all alarmed. I
fell into a broken slumber, but was suddenly waked
by one of the most appalling crashes I ever heard.

" Great God ! what has happened ?" I ejaculated,ALARM ON BOARD.

105

leaped from my berth, and hurrying, as I was,
rushed to the companion-ladder.

Two or three seamen's voices called out, " The
ship has struck; we are aground !"

" Put up the helm," was roared out. In an in-
stant, nearly all the male passengers were on deck.
The captain was below, but appeared immediately,
and endeavoured to restore order and quiet amidst
cries of " We have struck—we shall go down ! we
are lost! all's over !"

In short, all waited in trembling anxiety for the
next shock to be our last. I thought only of my
own treasures aboard. I flew to their cabins, which
were close by, and conjured them to be calm, as
the vessel had got ahead, and I felt certain all
danger was over. But in truth I merely hazarded
the declaration, for no one knew what did, or what
would, occur. The shock had struck the engine
and broken away the paddles, and the machinery
was at a stand. Under God's providence, however,
this state of suspense did not last long. The cap-
tain reported that some hull of a wreck, or some
floating timber, must have struck our sides and106

THE BRITISH CONSUL.

caused this frightful alarm; and, under the hope
of our reaching Vigo by daylight, he felt confident
there was no further ground for apprehension.
Re-assured by these opinions, we returned to our
respective berths, and in a few hours found our-
selves in Vigo, making repairs.

Our ladies had suffered both from alarm and the
stormy passage, and were anxious to go on shore
here. However, as the weather was still atrocious,
I persuaded them against the experiment; but
landed myself, with some companions, and visited
this wretched port. Nothing can be more forlorn,
squalid, and miserable than the appearance of the
place, except its starved population. The British
consul is a Spaniard of the name of Menendez. I
went to his office, where he sat like a bashaw chief,
surrounded by his slaves : the whole town seemed
under his sole dominion. The man, to do him
justice, was civil, presented us with casks of fresh
water, and sent a basket of. fruit from his garden
for our ladies. He told me the town had heard
that the Marquis of Londonderry was on board the
steamer, and that he was a bad man. This provedUNREASONABLE FEARS.

107

that the towns-people were all Christinos, and it
appeared to me judicious to get away as soon as
possible.

On returning to the ship, we sailed for the Tagus
direct, the sea being too tempestuous to touch at
Oporto, which generally is the order of these
steamers. I should, however, relate here that our
accident on the preceding night had such an effect
on seven or eight of our passengers, who were
bound for Spain, and had actually paid their pas-
sage as far as Gibraltar, that they in a body left
the vessel; choosing to proceed on mule-back to
Oporto, and so by land, rather than incur further
risk in a ship which they now believed to be un-
safe. Amongst these worthies the most conspicu-
ous in ridiculous fears and absurdities was the
Oporto wine-merchant, who has already been de-
scribed.

The night of Friday, the 20th, brought the wind
to the N.W. The weather cleared, and we entered
the Tagus on Saturday, the 21st, on a most lovely
afternoon.

I recognized all the old ground from Montego108

A STRANGE CONTRAST.

Bay to Belem Castle. Time had stolen twenty-five
or thirty years away since I last visited these places
in the long Peninsular war. My mind rapidly re-
verted to all the events of that period, and I cannot
paint the rapidity with which the succession of
former scenes flashed upon my recollection. In
1813 I left a country peopled with a stirring popu-
lation, occupied by a brilliant army; ships, trans-
ports, battalions, all in movement •. life appeared at
its full stretch in every contemplation of the pic-
ture. I returned in 1839; stillness pervaded the
prospect—commerce seemed quite or nearly at an
end ; the Tagus looked empty of shipping; three
English line-of-battle ships, and a French frigate
and sloop of war, alone appearing on the water.
The loss of Brazil and their other colonies might
fully account for the absence of the barks and nu-
merous craft that formerly covered the river, but
nothing but decadence and falling from a high
estate could produce such a change as the eye now
witnessed on the shores of the Alemtejo and the
country round Lisbon.

We passed the forts of Cascaes, Saint Julian,PALACE OF MARIALVA.

109

and the Bugio. The first-named fortress was nearly
a mass of ruins; no troops, cannon dismounted,
embrasures broken up. St. Julian looked little
better; all seemed tumbling to decay. The coun-
try also seemed deserted; and, on our ship's arrival,
near dark, at Belem, I had already figured in my
mind the change I was about to witness in a country
where once enterprise and youthful vigour rendered
every thing smiling and attractive.

I looked for my well-known quarters in the palace
of Marialva, at Belem. There, in 1809,1 com-
manded four squadrons of the 18th and four of the
light cavalry of the King's German Legion, form-
ing the advance guard of that part of Sir J. Moore's
army that marched on Madrid, for the whole to
assemble in Estremadura. Alas! the palace was
now almost a ruin. It had, however, lately fallen
into the possession of the Marquis of Louie; and
I heard from himself some days after that it was to
be fully repaired.

On arrival at our anchorage, opposite the Black
Horse Square, I was most anxious to get my family
landed; as the following day, being Sunday, threat-110

MEN OF WAR.

ened the absence of the custom-house officers: but
we were informed by the lieutenant in charge of
the government bags in our steam-ship, that they
never allowed landing after sunset. In despair, I
wrote to Lord Howard de Walden, who, I learned,
was at Cintra, eighteen miles distant, and where he
usually resided. His attaches, &c., were with him,
and there was no employe at the embassy house.

The men-of-war at anchor were, the Donegal,
carrying the flag of Sir F. Ommaney, who com-
manded on the station; the Hercules, 74, and the
Benbow, 74. The Juno, French frigate, and a
sloop of war, were the other armed vessels. I must
do the English admiral the justice to say that the
instant he heard of our being on board, he sent his
cutter with the greatest civility to us; and, under
the protection of his lieutenant, Lady Londonderry
and myself immediately landed, and happily got
into some decent apartments in the hotel of Ma-
dame Belem, not far from the Black Horse Square.
I heard nothing of my application to Lord Howard
de Walden until Sunday evening, when I was in-
formed that, if further difficulties occurred in myTHE MISSION AT LISBON.

Ill

landing, I might be permitted to apply to Mr.
Craven or Mr. Bonor; the latter of whom would
be in Lisbon on the following day, and would be
happy to render me his good offices.

For four days after I never heard or saw more
of this very efficient and active mission. They
seemed, from all I could learn, and from what I
myself experienced, to have established a noncha-
lant indifference that, satisfied with the private re-
treat at Cintra for themselves, allowed the conve-
nience of their countrymen to shift for itself; thus
the off-hand, indifferent manner, so characteristic
of the Melbourne Government, is admirably kept
up by the disciples of the Diplomatic School on the
banks of the Tagus. Whether their deeper diplo-
matic lore will be of the stamp exhibited by the
heads of the school in which they have been brought
up, time perhaps will show; but, as far as the
comfort of their countrymen, and the attention
due to these is concerned, I consider the conduct
of the mission now at Lisbon to be anything but
what the great British nation has a right to
expect.112

LODGINGS AT LISBON.

The entire of Sunday, the 22d, was occupied in
getting our baggage, &c., free from the Custom
House: no order to respect our position in any
shape was received, and a rigorous but civil search
was made. I learned that if I landed only my
small carriage, the Britchka, the duty upon it would
be upwards of £100 ; and that even if it were re-
embarked in a few days, no part of the money
would be returned. Of course, I did not land my
carriages, but sent them on to Gibraltar; but, hav-
ing an English mission at this court, and having
commenced relations with Portugal, one can hardly
understand how such a state of bad arrangements
should continue to exist.

It is always difficult to be well lodged for a short
time; and, although the hotel of Madame Belem
was noisy, having a coffee-room, which was open
all night under our sleeping rooms; having like-
wise a batch of cocks, that, unlike the generality
of their brethren, who confine themselves to crow-
ing of a morning, literally rang their shrill notes
from daybreak to sunset, on one side; and also,
on the other, a large roost of pigeons, whose cooingTHE DUKE OF TERCEIRA.

113

was incessant; yet, with all this noise and nuisance,
on making various inquiries, we found we could not
be much better off elsewhere ; so we determined to
avoid the trouble of changing during our stay.

Next to lodging comes subsistence : in order to
have as little trouble as possible, I desired the hos-
tess to arrange her demand generally, which she
did, and we were reasonably and well provided.

Admiral Ommaney called on Sunday, and again
offered his services and the use of his barges during
our stay. I feel we owe him every possible grati-
tude for his marks of attention and respect.

I had brought various letters to different persons
at Lisbon, and, somewhat inconsiderately, sent
them all for delivery to the Due de Terceira, to
whom I had been especially referred. On Monday,
the 28d, he called: but so far from making me
sensible that I had committed an indiscretion, I
must say that I never met an individual who so
immediately and completely overpowered me with
attention, civility, and kindness. He placed his
carriages and horses at our disposition; and, un-
derstanding there was to be a funeral ceremony, or

VOL. II.	I114	RETURN VISIT TO THE DUKE.

solemn mass, performed on the following day at tlie
Church of S. Vicente, in honour of Don Pedro's
memory, and at which the king and queen were to
assist, the Due at once undertook to arrange our
going, and obtain our places; and he managed
every thing for us in the most agreeable manner.
The Due was the only Portuguese nobleman who
as yet had called on me ; many to whom I brought
letters had sent their names and passed my door,
but I had seen no other person.

On the same day I thought it but right to show
my sense of his civility by returning his visit, though
under circumstances of considerable inconvenience.
This however did not deter me; and getting a small
rowing boat, thinking to take the admiral in my way
to Belem, four miles off, where the Due de Terceira
resided, I went on board the Donegal. The admiral
seemed shocked at my poor conveyance, and in-
stantly ordered and manned his cutter, which took
me merrily along to my destination.

I obtained some curious information and anec-
dotes from the admiral, who seemed thoroughly
acquainted with the Portuguese nation and presentGRAND FUNERAL CEREMONY.	115

government: but more of this hereafter. The due
was not at home, but I presented myself to the
duchess, one of the handsomest women and of the
highest character in Portugal: the latter the great-
est of virtues in a country where a lady of the
highest rank and largest fortune is living with her
coachman, and where there is a general and utterly
inexcusable laxity of morals. During this short
visit the duchess evinced every wish to be of use to
Lady Londonderry and my family. I got back very
late to the hotel; the day had been sultry beyond
description; I took my ladies out in the cool of the
evening, and Lady Londonderry visited the Black
Horse Square, the Silver, the Gold, and the Cloth,
Streets.

On the 24th the Due de Terceira's carriage ar-
rived at eleven o'clock to take us to the Church of
S. Vicente, to hear the high mass and funeral cere-
mony performed on the anniversary of Don Pedro's
death. The court were all present, also all the
officers of the state and of the army. We were
placed behind the altar, directly opposite the king
and queen, whom we saw perfectly; the great con-

i 2116

PORTUGUESE CARRIAGES.

course of attendants were in the body of the church.
Their majesties sat together in a loge, or box, about
the centre of one side of the cathedral. It is a large,
ancient church, but what a remnant of fallen great-
ness and splendour in decay! — old tapestry, old
cloth, gildings of past centuries; fretwork and
stucco falling down and tumbling to pieces. The
appearance of the whole forcibly impressed the
mind with a conviction of the decline, and certainty
of the end, of all things, rather than with a sense
of the gorgeous exhibition and stately procession
of a royal ceremony. The music, however, was cer-
tainly fine, and the service lasted altogether two
hours; but it was very inferior to the celebrations
of the Greek Church in the North of Europe.

A quantity of badly-clothed servants attended
the royal cortege, and the carriages were in a state
of utter misery, poverty, and dilapidation. I re-
member formerly in Portugal that the carriages of
the nobles, though inconvenient, yet were gilt,
clean, and handsome; and they generally had mules
worth 300 moidores a pair. Now this race of ani-
mals seems extinct; and the poverty, awkwardness,THE KING OF PORTUGAL.

117

and ill-shape of the carriages can only be surpassed
by the wretchedness of the horses. I was informed
that the Due de Terceira, who is grand equerry,
was taking great pains to improve the king's sta-
bles. There is need of it: and from his energy
and ability X have no doubt that in due time an
improvement will take place.

It may be interesting to devote a few words to
the description of the young queen of this country
as she now appears; and curiosity must be the
more active regarding her, as she was for some time
in England.

By her first husband, the Prince of Leuchtenburg,
the queen had no children; by the second, Prince
Ferdinand of Coburg, she has two princes born;
and this gives the husband the right of being styled
King of Portugal. He is extremely youthful, being
not more than twenty-one; the queen is twenty.
This Coburg prince is stated to be a well-meaning
young man, without vices, and disposed to meddle
very little in public affairs of any kind. He is much
led and influenced by a clever German, a M. Deily,
who came to Portugal with him; and another im-118

DONNA MARIA.

portant personage of his suite is a Monsieur St. Le-
ger, a Frenchman, who married a Portuguese.

It is quite natural that this young and inexperi-
enced king and queen should be in the hands of,
and directed by, able and competent advisers; and
it is only to be lamented, from all one sees and
hears, that mischievous foreign influence should
surround their persons; and that the revolutionary
Septembrizers of the ministry are framing all their
measures, not for a liberal, but a revolutionary,
form of government, instead of the absolutism by
which Portugal was so long governed.

But to return to Donna Maria. The small, in-
teresting little person who was so much caressed
by both George IY. and William IV., is now grown
into a very large, fat woman. I believe it is rare
to see a person of her age of such an extraordinary
size. Her features are rather heavy, if of an inte-
resting cast; her hair is light and dressed in ring-
lets, but without ornament, and is tied in a knot
behind. She was dressed in black; and candour
must pronounce that, judging from appearances,
she was not an inviting personage. She is re-POVERTY OF THE STATE.

119

ported, however, to be of a harmless, inoffensive
character, and fond of the pleasures of the table.
When hanging on the arm of the king, who is a
slender youth, the contrast between the two is sin-
gular ; it recalls the line in Hamlet.

The misery to which the royal household is re-
duced can best be appreciated by stating the fact,
that the government find it more convenient to
take charge of and keep the royal establishment,
than to pay a stated sum for the purpose to their
sovereigns.

The salaries of all are greatly in arrear; and the
royal personages are in such distress for money, that
they are obliged to procure it on their own promis-
sory notes, from Jews and private persons, at an
immense discount.

The palace expenses are arranged and regulated
under a board of direction. The queen and king
dine almost always together, though the former
takes her breakfasts and dejeuners a la fourchette
separate. There are no tables for others; no
hangers-on, no court-people kept. What remains
from the royal board is immediately given to the120

ROYAL VAULT.

poor. The servants and all the attendants are on
board-wages. Few receptions of any sort are given
at the palace, and even when there is an audience
of the queen, she hardly opens her lips or has com-
munication with any one. The priests have con-
siderable influence with her majesty.

But, no longer to diverge from the Church of S.
Vicente; high mass being ended, the court in pro-
cession, headed by the royal pair, went into the
receptacle for kings and queens, a great vault, in
which all the sovereigns of Portugal are interred,
in order to pay their homage to the eoffin and
corpse of Don Pedro, on whose bier were placed
two superb crowns, those of Portugal and the Bra-
zils. The last might now have been dispensed with.
When all had paid their devoirs, the church cere-
mony ended; the cortege returned to the Palace of
the Necessidades, and the meeting dispersed.

The great Convent of the Necessidades has been
recently fitted up, and added as accommodation to
this modern residence of the kings of Portugal.
The Palace of Ayudas is now only used upon state
occasions.CHAPTER XXL

State of Portugal—Political parties—Speculations as to the
state of parties — Finances and Laws—The effects of changing
long-established institutions—Visit to the Donegal—The Due
de Palmella—Indifference of the British Embassy—The Due de
Terceira's dinner—The English chapel—Insecurity of life and
property in Lisbon—Don Pedro's constitution—Cintra—The
Cork and Col de Penar Convents—Montserrat—Visit to the
Marialva Palace—Excursion to Mafra — Road-making in Por-
tugal — State of the palace of Mafra, the largest building in
the world—Leave Portugal.STATE OF PORTUGAL.

123

CHAPTER XXI.

Portugal was in a state of political ferment at
the period of my arrival. The English legislature
had, at the close of the session of 1839, passed the
bill against the slave-trade, despite the objection
offered in an early stage of it by the Duke of Wel-
lington ; who alleged, that if Portugal had not
acted in conformity to treaties, it was the business
of the executive to make war and force her to ful-
fil her engagements : but that it was not the duty
of parliament, nor constitutional, to force upon par-
liament itself, the responsibility of the measures
which Lord Palmerston's bill enacted. The feel-
ings of the Portuguese nation ran very high against
this act of the English government. They appealed
in a strong note to the diiferent powers of Europe
for protection and justice; and at this epoch the124

STATE OF PARTIES.

minister of the party of the Septembrisers, then in
power, issued a very angry manifesto, accom-
panied by a publication of British confidential
despatches ;* all which excited great commotion in
the capital.

It was a difficult task for any stranger, on arrival,
to make himself rapidly acquainted with the state
of parties, and with the different bearings of a
complicated case, in which all sides perhaps have
been equally to blame, and of which the various
factions have their own readings. The state of
Portugal, generally, as to its political power, means,
and influence, has of late so much declined; the
mistaken policy of the British government, since
1825, has so tended to weaken the influence of the
wealthy, important, and intelligent part of the na-
tion, and to throw the direction of government into
the channel of liberalism, if not of anarchy and re-
volution, that it is far from easy to form just opi-

* N.B. The despatches of Lord Howard de Walden, marked
" most confidential," were published by the Minister for
Foreign Affairs; and they appear to me to contain a curious
history of British diplomacy in Portugal.MIGUELITES.

125

nions of the parties and interests that now guide
this unfortunate and ill-treated kingdom. It is not
my intention to travel back into the causes that
have produced the government of the present hour;
I write only a sketch of the position in which the
parties that divide the country appear to me to be
placed.

The royalist, or rather the Miguelite, party, not
only exists in considerable force, but is composed
of the most honest of the nobility and landowners;
and though they may now no longer expect the re-
turn of Don Miguel, there is but little doubt that
this party will continue to feel dissatisfied with the
present order of things. I am of opinion that the
sensible men of this body are desirous that the
ancient Portuguese constitution should be re-esta-
blished in its full vigour, and that some union of
parties should heal the deep wounds sustained by
Portugal, and save her from farther misery and
destruction. This set of men have never been fully
in power. The Due de Cadoval and the Bishop of
Yizeu belonged to it; but they could not overcome
the difficulties which the Exaltados threw in their126

CHARTISTS.

way; they were invariably intrigued against, and
their counsels disregarded.

The ultra-royalist party being the most nume-
rous and powerful, the more moderate can achieve
no permanent settlement. But they are, I believe,
employing means to unite and bring about some
common understanding.

The chartist party is the most unpopular in Por-
tugal, and far weaker than the royalists. It is com-
posed of men who were either personal enemies to
Don Miguel, or were bought by money, or else act
from motives of self-interest at the moment; and
though it boasts, on its lists, of Palmella, Saldanha,
Terceira, and others, yet, like the Whig party in
England, it is neither respected, looked up to, nor
beloved.

Many individuals of importance, who were averse
to the old established order of things, either from
want of confidence in Don Miguel, or from despair
of ever obtaining him again as sovereign, have
joined the now dominant party of the Septem-
brists. This, generally speaking, is composed of
manufacturers, journeymen, and shopkeepers inSEPTEMBRISTS.

127

Lisbon, and from Oporto ; its leaders are of
some literary merit, and are intrinsically revolu-
tionists.

But it is strange to observe a real similarity
existing between the state of parties in England
and in Portugal; for the Royalist party is less
averse to the Septembrists than to the Chartists,
as the Tories lean to the Radicals rather than
towards the base and shabby Whigs. The Roy-
alists have been much less persecuted by the Sep-
tembrists than by the Chartists, and agree besides
with the former on some essential points. The
Septembrists maintain that Don Pedro had lost
his right to the crown, and that the Charter was
unlawful; they dislike the Cobourg connexion, and
hate the queen, in quality of succeeding to her
father's usurpation, as much as the Royalists.

On the other hand, the Royalist or Miguelite
party have no wish to see Absolutism established
again in Portugal: their desire is for the ancient
constitution; and Don Miguel, through his em-
bassies from Rome, still holds out this expectation
to his adherents. If these Legitimists or Royalists128

A MIDDLE COURSE.

abandon absolutism in the person of their own
prince, how can they be induced to support it when
directed by foreigners, and advised by the most
wretched characters in the country ? The Portu-
guese formerly were as confident in the good in-
tentions of their sovereigns, as they are now appre-
hensive of their evil designs : and they dread what
might follow absolutism in the hands of the present
dynasty. Looking to the characters who surround
the queen, it seems vain to speculate on uniting the
Royalists to her. She appears forced, by a mis-
chievous policy, to uphold the flag of revolution,
and to be a victim in the hands of the most con-
temptible of her people : this very resolution, there-
fore, is her bitterest enemy. It seems to me that
a middle course of government might be decided on
between the partisans of the queen and those of
Don Miguel, consistent with the principles of legi-
timacy, and of the ancient Portuguese constitution.
If the cause of Don Miguel becomes more desperate
from the fate and fall of Don Carlos, the Septem-
brists, having no farther apprehension from the
Royalists, would treat them kindly in order toFINANCES AND LAWS.

129

obtain their support in the elections; and this, in
my opinion, would induce the Royalists to unite
themselves to that ultra-republican party, to free
the country from a foreign dominion, imposed by
foreign bayonets.

The finances of the country are notoriously in
the most embarrassed state. Many say that only
a total bankruptcy can relieve them, and this will
come sooner or later. The laws, under the different
names of Decretos, Alvaras, Posturas, and Avisos,
issued by the present government, amount to no
less than 14,000 different ordinances: they are
generally copied from the French, and are not only
opposed in many instances to Portuguese habits
and customs, but are drawn up so clumsily as to
contradict each other. This confusion is very ge-
neral ; and it is only in Lisbon, Oporto, and some
other of the great towns, that tranquillity reigns.
In the provinces, and even thirty miles distant from
Lisbon, the country is in a state of almost lawless
barbarity and outrage. I may return to this sub-
ject when I have seen more.

The state of parties in Portugal at this hour

VOL. 11.	K130

STREET IMPROVEMENTS.

strongly shews the necessity of avoiding sudden
and violent changes in long-established institutions.
Is it not extravagant to transplant institutions that
are the slow growth of centuries in one country, to
another totally different from it in every thing, and
which has been taught to detest the social and reli-
gious system of the land whence those institutions
are derived ? The struggling factions, dilapidated
resources, and degraded state of the royalty, law-
courts, and country of Portugal, shew the folly of
these sweeping alterations.

On the day subsequent to attending the high
mass, we visited the different streets and squares of
Lisbon. Although little or no progress has been
made during thirty years in the articles of luxury,
comforts of any kind, or in cleanliness; and, though
wretchedness and poverty appear to me to be in-
creased, I must notice one essential improvement
in the town itself, in the establishment of flag-ways
for the foot passengers.

Some of the Portuguese assured me very gravely
that the greatest possible proprete was observed
now: that, though formerly it was universally per-THE DONEGAL.

131

mitted to empty every thing, at all hours of the
day and night, into the streets from the windows,
now it was strictly confined to between ten o'clock
at night and five in the morning: To those who
have witnessed the horror and abominations of the
narrow streets of Lisbon no description is neces-
sary ; the untravelled may refer to Lord Byron's
descriptions.

The shops in the silver and gold streets, like
every thing else, had fallen off; no fine topazes
even (once so common) were to be purchased; and
all the merchandize seemed very mediocre.

The admiral, Sir F. Ommaney, sent us his cutter
one morning, and we all went on board the Donegal
flag-ship, which he was so courteous as to get into
full order to receive us. The vessel is an old French
one, captured formerly at Bantry Bay. She has
therefore nothing remarkable in the shape of modern
improvements; and, as her anchor has never been
up since she has been on the station, it is not diffi-
cult to keep her in high apparent stationary order.

On Saturday the 26th we dined by invitation
with the Due de Terceira at Belem. He had ta-
il 2132

THE BRITISH EMBASSY.

vited the most important and principal personages
of his own true party to meet us.

I apprehend the Due de Palmella declined to
meet me because, when he was in London, as am-
bassador at the coronation, I did not pay him the
same attentions as the ambassadors of the other
powers, with whom I have been more intimate. I
do not complain of this ; more especially when nei-
ther the British minister resident, nor any of his
mission, thought fit to take the smallest notice of me
or my family during our fortnight's sojourn at Lis-
bon. Formerly our residents at the different courts
of Europe considered such notice a part of their
bounden duty, they haying large salaries bestowed
with a view to their showing hospitality to their
countrymen, and employing all means in their power
to assist and serve them. But, at present, to judge
from the Lisbon mission, the minister considers
too much of his pocket and what will give him
trouble, and too little of other things. Politics
never used to interfere in the proper attentions
to rank and station: but it seems quite another
ease now.THE DUC DE PALMELLA.

133

To return to Palmella: although I did not see
him, I was told, from good authority, that he had
just finally settled the important affair of his son's
marriage with Mademoiselle de Fajal, Sanpayo's
daughter. After carrying her away from the San
payo family, who wanted to lay hold of her in
France — and had they succeeded in this they
might, according to the legal opinions received,
have stopped the marriage — Palmella contrived,
on his return to Lisbon with his prize, to keep her
concealed, so that the Sanpayo family never could
take possession of her. The Portuguese laws also
favoured the rights of the betrothed. When she
was but nine years old, Palmella had interest suffi-
cient with the queen, Donna Maria, to urge hex
applying to Mademoiselle de Fajal's mother for the
dissolution of a promise of marriage, made by her
late husband Sanpayo, for this only child, and to
give her to his (Palmella's) son instead. Donna
Maria would not hear of a refusal; she was pre-
sent at the ceremony, and had the child put under
Madame Palmella's care. All the relations of the
Sanpayo family then took up the matter, and the134	EXTRAORDINARY MARRIAGE.

public remember well what occurred. Finally, at
eleven years old, Palmella had the marriage cere-
mony celebrated ; and, after this, the relations and
family yielded. Palmella comes into the receipt, it
is said, of two millions sterling by this adven-
ture, the girl's family not receiving more than
£50,000 : but if the girl dies without issue, then
her family receive back all her fortune, and Pal-
mella takes the £50,000. With great deference
to the Due de Palmella's diplomatic abilities, I
question whether this is not his greatest coup de
force.

The Due de Terceira's dinner was served in a
handsome style, considering the present impoverish-
ment of the noblesse of the country. There was a
party of Portuguese in the evening: but we our-
selves came home early, having to attend church
service on the following day.

The English chapel is a very fine edifice, and the
burial-ground is deserving of notice amongst the
few things at Lisbon which can attract the eye of
a stranger, as buildings and objects of the first
interest. But nothing can ever make the interiorTHE MUNICIPAL BODY.

135

of this capital handsome, until the masses of ruins,
and dilapidations of buildings, standing in mournful
remembrance of what they once were, are cleared
away.

Why some steps are not taken for this purpose I
cannot imagine. The municipal body, to whom
are consigned all the improvements of the town,
accomplish what they undertake with regularity
and system, although they get on very slowly. In
addition to the trottoirs now almost universally laid
down, they are finishing the edifices in the Black
Horse Square, some of which were destroyed by
fire twelve years ago; and they are ornamenting
with columns of stone and iron railings the new
public gardens established at the northern extre-
mity of the city. I could not understand if this
body has the control of the police as well as the
embellishment of the place : but certainly nothing
can be in a more disgraceful state than the protec-
tion of life and property now is at Lisbon. Several
murders, in houses which were afterwards plun-
dered, occurred during my short stay, and these
close to Madame Belem's hotel, where I lived;136

DON PEDRO'S LAWS.

amongst others, an English doctor O'Neil's mansion
was broken into in his absence; his wife, daughter,
and maid were deliberately stabbed ; the property
carried off; and the doctor, when he came home
from the country, on entering his house, was the
first to discover the horrors that had been com-
mitted.

Similar acts were continually occurring, and
persons could not safely walk in the streets at
night: but there seems no desire to seize or to punish
the assassin; and the law is so lax and remiss that,
when the murderers are taken, they are generally
let off with a few months' imprisonment. The best
explanation I could obtain of this indifference as to
crime was, that Don Pedro's new laws and consti-
tution had entirely overturned the former criminal
code, so that no tribunal could now be found to
convict malefactors ; and farther, that the new
system was not yet so thoroughly in action as to
enable the civil power to understand how to act
under it.

Whatever changes Don Pedro may have made,
these, according to all appearance, have tended toCINTUA.

137

any thing but the general advantage. The destruc-
tion of ancient and long-accustomed habits and
laws, the abolition of the convents, the spoliation
of the aristocracy, have all tended to produce in
Portugal the appearance of a fallen nation; and
the sole charms and attractions which seem at pre-
sent left, are its climate, its orange groves, and its
vineyards, which even the most erring legislature
cannot take away.

Monday 30th found us at Cintra. It is needless
to describe here this chaos of rocks, cliffs, moun-
tains, dells, mingling with the cork, the pine, the
vineyards, the geraniums, and the wild heaths of
every description.

The three great pyramidal heights that crown
this craggy, singular, and almost marvellous locality
are known to have on their tops three old buildings,
or convents. The first in note is the Cork Convent,
made entirely of that tree. Here, till very recently,
eighteen or twenty monks resided; but they were
banished and sent adrift by Don Pedro's laws.
When the reader is told that, in order to view this
building, he must bestride a donkey or mule, and138

THE CORK CONVENT.

wind round the circumference of the mountain,
enduring the broil of the sun's burning rays, and
subject to all the desagremens of such an under-
taking, it must be allowed, that they who under-
take it, especially if ladies, ought to be richly
repaid for their labour: and it is so with those who
admire the sublime or romantic, and can be satisfied
with figuring to themselves times that are passed ;
but, at present, the Cork Convent is an entire ruin,
and not worth the trouble of ascending the rocky
pinnacle to examine.

The Col de Penar Convent, which is in the cen-
tre, and comes next in succession, is higher than
the other, and the general view stupendous, vast,
and wild. The king is now repairing this strange
place, formerly a monastery, and means to esta-
blish it as a summer residence. The third old con-
vent or building is not worth visiting. When the
British army was in Portugal, a capital inn was
kept at Cintra by a Mr. Carey, and many an officer
on sick leave of absence can doubtless revert to
his recovery and to scenes of renewed health in
that establishment. Now this house, like everyMONTSERRAT.	139

thing else here, contains only a sad picture of the
past. There is another hotel, kept by Madame
Belem; a third by an Italian : and to these the vi-
sitors to Cintra resort.

The best mode of seeing the place in the shortest
space is, to get your donkeys in the morning early
and start for Montserrat, an edifice built by that
singular person Mr. Beckford, who seems to have
created wonders only to have them pulled down
and destroyed. Montserrat Palace, as once Font-
hill Abbey, sleeps in solitude ; tombs of a similar
cast in different climes. After beholding this, the
palace of former luxury and by-gone greatness,
you can proceed to the Cork Convent; from thence
to the Col de Penar, by the back road, behind the
mountain: and finish your labours with the Palace
of Marialva, the only respectable edifice in the
place; not excepting the palace of the queen.

These two last buildings we visited on the 1st of
October. The royal residence is more miserable
than can be conceived; destitute of even commonly
decent furniture, and composed of a number of
small apartments, one more insignificant than ano-140	MARCHIONESS DE LORIVAL.

ther. At the top of the palace there is a large
salle de billard. The walls are lined with blue
tiles, on which are painted old historical events ;
the manufacture of this kind of china is handsome,
and dates from the time of the Moors. On the first
floor of the palace is the dining-room; and adjoining
it the bath-room, which is likewise lined with the
blue-painted tiling before described; and by some
mechanical apparatus, on your touching a spring
or screw, the room is immediately inundated with
torrents of water, as if pouring from the heavens;
which has a singular effect. The Marialva Chateau
celebrates now the room in which the Cintra Con-
vention was signed. It is sadly gone to ruin since
I saw it in 1809.

The Marchioness de Lorival, sister to the late
Marquis, resides here; I saw her after an absence
of above twenty-five years, and was received by
her in the kindest manner. She still enjoys in
Portugal all the respect to which she is so deserv-
edly entitled, and has never mixed in any party
politics.

On the following morning we set off for Mafra,ROAD-MAKING.

141

having ordered carriages from Lisbon, and taking
our donkeys with us, to use when the roads were
bad. We found them throughout so execrable
that one can hardly conceive a civilized nation al-
lowing such a miserable state of inland communi-
cation ; it is a strong proof of the utterly abject
and inefficient state of all the administration of
the kingdom. But bad as the road iras to Cintra,
that from thence to Mafra for carriages is still
worse, causing dislocation and requiring bone-set-
ting. With respect to the Cintra road, I heard
that some English engineers had offered to con-
tract for mac-adamizing it for seven thousand
pounds, which the Government refused as exorbi-
tant : since that period they have been attempting
to do a part of it themselves, and have already ex-
pended more than thirty thousand pounds in the
task; so much for their knowledge and good man-
agement.

The Due de Terceira had sent to the intendant
of the palace of Mafra, to have it prepared for our
reception: that is, to give us dry lodging. Nei-
ther in this nor in any other of the royal palaces,142

PALACE OF MAFRA.

where the King and Queen occasionally reside, are
there any establishment, conveniences, or ameuble-
ment; and when the royal party come, waggons,
mules, and carriages without number are all in re-
quisition, to bring the accommodation actually
wanted for a few days. It is hardly conceivable
and extremely ridiculous to see the intendant
come forward with a large bunch of keys, to show
you the palace, and then to follow him through so
many empty apartments, all of which he unlocks
and locks with as much care and ceremony as if
they contained ingots or caskets of jewels; though
they do not contain even a chair or stool to rest
upon in passing, and are fit only for the abode of
rats and mice, bugs, and musquitoes.

The palace of Mafra is well known to English-
men. In the late war it was chiefly used as an
hospital for the Portuguese reserves, and they had
usually seven thousand or eight thousand men in
it; it would hold forty thousand, at least. This is,
I believe, the largest building in the world; and
was founded by Don John the First to expiate some
vow. It is said there was a contest between theITS DESOLATE STATE.

143

monks of Mafra, where there had been a convent,
and the citizens of Lisbon, as to whether this palace,
or a magnificent quay along the banks of the
Tagus, should be constructed. The power of the
monastery prevailed over the inhabitants of the
capital, and this huge structure was undertaken,
situate in the wilds, almost incapable of access,
and unfit now for any purpose whatsoever. The
convent, that for ages had been filled with monks,
is now broken up; and the hundreds of apartments
are tenantless. The splendid marble cathedral
doubtless demands a better fate than to be buried
in its own ruins, which some few years will accom-
plish ; already the roof is going, for want of need-
ful repairs. A magnificent library, however, with
twenty-nine thousand volumes in the very best
order, is not the least valuable property belonging
to this interesting palace; which richly deserves
examination by the curious in architectural struc-
ture, notwithstanding the fatigue and difficulty
you must go through to arrive in its precincts.

Having visited Mafra, we returned on the follow-
ing morning (the 3d) to Lisbon, and remained till144

DEPARTURE.

the 5th, without any particular occurrence. On
that day the Tagus steam-vessel arrived from Eng-
land, and again brought no letters for us; which
was very provoking, and did not increase our good
humour. It is usual for the packet to proceed in
the evening to Cadiz, but by great good fortune
she waited till the following morning; and on
Saturday the 5th we went on board of her, barely
finding, with the greatest difficulty, the most
wretched accommodation; she having eighty pas-
sengers on board, when she could not decently
accommodate forty. I must admit she is a very
fine vessel, though not so nicely managed and
looked after as the Braganza. Three ships of the
line, proceeding off Alexandria to reinforce Admi-
ral Sir It. Stopford's fleet, came into the Tagus
this day. We took an affectionate leave of the
Due de Terceira, the only Portuguese who had
shown us literally the smallest civility, hurried on
board, and sailed with a fair wind for Cadiz,
where we anchored very safely on Sunday the 6th
October.CHAPTER XXII.

Approach to Cadiz—Description of the City and its Inhabi-
tants — The Cathedrals — Promenades — Visit on board the
Trinculo brig and Merlin yacht — Mr. Brackenburg — The
British Consul — Voyage to Seville — Banks of the Guadal-
quiver—Promenades—Seville Cathedral—The Civil War in
Spain—Impressions as to the state of parties in the country—
Political measures of the Government — Dissolution of the
Monasteries—Working of the Liberal System in the hands of
the Spaniards—Dispersion of the Prie3ts—Influence of Napo-
leon in Spain.

VOL. II.

LAPPROACH TO CADIZ.

147

CHAPTER XXII.

I pass over the desagremens of the public, over-
loaded, government packets; the horrors to a deli-
cate woman are beyond all imagination, and my
family suffered indescribably. Yet the rapidity and
certainty with which, in spite of wind and weather,
the regular communication between England and
the south of Europe is now kept up, are as remark-
able in themselves as praiseworthy to the con-
tractors and the government.

It is a delightful coup dceil, approaching the fair
city, white as the driven snow, and rising almost
like Venice out of the waters; a sky without a
cloud; a sea as blue as azure, while on its bosom
float hundreds of picturesque fishing boats,—such
is the aspect of Cadiz:—and, when you land,

L 2148

CADIZ.

what a contrast with that filthy Lisbon! It is
true the streets are equally narrow; but they are
as clean as the boarded walls of the houses, or the
matting of the apartments. From the peculiar
position of Cadiz on a peninsular neck of land,
there are no carriages in the city, as they would
be useless. You have no country to drive into;
the communications are entirely on foot, or by
mules or donkeys; and porters carry on all the
commerce, as at Lisbon, on their shoulders.

The shore about the town is low, and looks
sandy and parched up; not a tree is to be seen. The
harbour extends four or five miles up the bay.
Here formerly existed magnificent arsenals, called
the caraccas, all now gone to ruin; the houses have
many of them small towers, which give a novelty
to the aspect of this island city. The port is al-
ways full of shipping ; and the lateen sails of the
vessels appear, to one who has never seen them
before, graceful beyond description; skimming
along like sea-birds with their broad white wings
gleaming in sunshine, they speak of the sunny
south, and give a marked character to the picture,COSTUME.

149

which increases their effect the more you watch
their course over the deep blue waters.

On landing at Cadiz you enter, as at Calais,
through an arched gateway, and the square before
you is filled with hundreds of people. There is a
great confusion of tongues, but an unusual still-
ness, owing to the absence of carriages and horses.
The whole area may vie with a bakehouse as to
temperature, for the houses, being very high and
white, after the sun has been upon them all day,
retain the heat. The groups that meet the eye
are difficult to describe; all sorts of costume are
before you; from the peasant in his national macho,
and the muleteer and the water-carrier to the
shabby native ruffian muffled in his cloak, with,
perhaps, no coat under it; or the dirty foreign
dandy.

Some figures are beautifully got up, with sashes,
sombreros, ornamented sachets, and silver and gilt
buttons; others, again, with their mantles folded
close to their eyes, seem to wish to hide all the
nakedness of their interior. All talked, all smoked,
all smelt. There were women with fine, fierce,150

PROMENADES.

brilliant eyes, and finer hair, but the men are a
still finer race.

In the centre of the town is the large and very
fine cathedral, partially destroyed in the French
war, but lately restored, finished, and roofed in
again by the liberality of the present bishop, who
has done it out of his own funds. The streets sur-
round and hem in this edifice; they run parallel,
forming right angles with the cross streets with
singular regularity. The balconies, Venetian lat-
tices, and curtains of all colours, to each story of
the lofty houses, produce a very gay and cheerful
effect. Cadiz is by far the cleanest town I ever
saw in Europe. It is surrounded by a strong ram-
part and parapet; and the principal side is towards
the bay, where the ships lie and the anchorage
is good. Formerly the commerce of this town
was immense; but with the loss of South America
it is very much reduced. There is a handsome
public walk on the ramparts, called the Alameda.
It is to be compared to a poor attempt at imitation
of the Paris Boulevard; this, and the Plaza de la
Constitucion, as it is termed, are now the onlyTHE TRINCULO.

151

places of public promenade. The shops are good,
as much is manufactured here for exportation;
and the living is cheap and economical: generally
speaking, a dollar is charged where in England
they would demand a pound.

The streets are scarcely twelve feet wide, and
the high houses almost seem to touch at the top
with their gables and green blinds. The locking up
of the gates of the town at night, and the shutting
out all communication with the harbour, are very
inconvenient for travellers. The gates are closed at
sunset, and not opened except at nine and eleven,
and if you are not exact to these hours, you must
stay in or out, there being no remedy. There is a
nationality about Cadiz, although it may be more
frequented by strangers than towns in the interior,
that makes it more deeply interesting than almost
any other place.

The Trinculo, a brig of war under the command
of Captain Coffin, was the only English armed
vessel here; the captain was extremely obliging.
I visited him on board, and he mustered his crew,
showed me all over his ship, and (notwithstanding152

THE BRITISH CONSUL.

some recent orders) paid me the compliments
always formerly paid to a general officer.

Besides the Trinculo, I went here on board a
very nice schooner called the Merlin, belonging to
Captain Lyon, and was happy in making the ac-
quaintance of this very agreeable man, who joined
our party a little while, and from whom we deri-
ved much information and pleasure, as he had been
for some time in these countries. He was going
with his schooner to the West Indies, which I
thought venturesome, and likely to afford far more
toil than pleasure; no glory, and much discomfort:
but there is no reasoning upon, or understanding,
the mania of these yacht amateurs.

At Cadiz we were most hospitably received ana
treated by Mr. Brakenburg, the British consul, who
had been fifteen or sixteen years resident there.
He has a charming family; and his daughters en-
livened the evenings passed at his house by their
amiable and agreeable manners and conversation;
they have perfectly acquired the Spanish music,
the guitar, the bolero, and the castagnettes; so
that from their accomplishments you would thinkVOYAGE TO SEVILLE.

153

yourself in a Spanish family. Mr. Brakenburg
gave us a very handsome dinner; and on the 8th
of October he assisted and superintended our pas-
sage to Seville, whither we were desirous of going,
to see the cathedral, and to witness a bull-fight,
which we understood was to be given there.

Orders had come from Madrid to have Te
Deums and rejoicings in all the towns, for the
restoration of peace and the destruction of the
Carlist bands; there was no intention of any great
festivity at Cadiz, as the municipality pleaded
poverty, but much was looked for at Seville.
The voyage thither from Cadiz is managed three
times a week by small and very indifferent
steamers. The best of them, however, is the Pe-
ninsula steam vessel, in which we sailed; but, to
our great discomfort, we found, from the sands
and shallow water in various parts of the Guadal-
quiver, that we were doomed to transfer ourselves,
our luggage, and our suite, when about four miles
from Seville, into a very inferior and very small
vessel, with but a shallow draught of water, and
only ar-twenty-horse power machinery.154

LANDING AT SEVILLE.

The landing at Seville is barbarous; you are
not merely searched, through all your baggage, on
the quays, but undergo another opening of boxes
and parcels at the gate entering the town. It is
not that they are strict, but the system is, to give
trouble unless you give bribes. These go far in
Spain. I detail this for the information of such
as wish to pursue the same route, and advise them
to take as little baggage as possible. The banks
of the Guadalquiver are as low, flat, marshy,
muddy, and barbarous in every sense of the word,
until nearly approaching Seville, as can well be
imagined. The river is muddy, and its depth va-
rious and unequal. It is said that heavy taxes
are laid on the shipping to keep the navigation
deep and in proper order; but, like most arrange-
ments in Spain, trickery and mismanagement put
the money in the pockets of the officers, and the
river is entirely neglected.

You land on arrival at a small tower on the
Delicias promenade. These are walks that the
governor, M. Ajora, (who was afterwards suspected
of Carlism, and dismissed,) caused to be con-CHRISTIAN PROMENADE.

155

structed ten years ago, for driving and riding, on
the borders of the river, and must make this town
in summer and hot weather much more delightful
than Cadiz; for here you can get shade, mountain,
hill, and dale—in short, the country—while in the
fair city you are confined solely to sun and lat-
ticed houses. The governor above alluded to also
embellished the town, dilapidated by French occu-
pation and invasion; he also rebuilt the palace,
and the greater part of the Plaza Isabel; but, since
he was removed, little or nothing has been going
on, the great want being money here, as in all
places in Spain.

The Christina promenade is more striking and
convenient than the Delicias, from its slated ter-
race, and its seats, which are delightful in summer
evenings, by the side of the river, after a day of
from eighty to ninety degrees Fahrenheit.

Every one knows that the principal attraction
in Seville is the magnificent gothic cathedral, the
largest and finest in Europe. We fortunately
arrived on the 9th, the day Te Deum and high
mass were celebrated, and all the official autho-156

SEVILLE CATHEDRAL.

rities of the city in attendance. We obtained good
places at ten in the morning. Nothing ever struck
me as more truly sublime than this edifice: West-
minster Abbey, York and Durham cathedrals, are
the pride of our own land; but the lofty arches,
the fretted ceilings, the singularly beautiful painted
glass, composing windows which, when the sun
shines upon them, seem like illuminated stars in
the firmament, and, above all, the wonderful oak
and ebony carvings, impress the mind of the be-
holder with greater astonishment and far more
religious awe than our English edifices of the same
class. The playing on the organ was particularly
fine, but there was no singing. The cathedral is
adorned with many exquisite pictures by Murillo,
who was a native of the city, and Zuberan; and
here is also to be seen the tomb of Columbus,
decorated with emblems of the discovery of the
new world.

Reports were in circulation in the town that
Cabrera intended making an excursion here from
Valencia and Arragon, with a view of raising sup-
plies ; and it was also stated that some ships ofMILITARY MOVEMENTS.

157

war had brought metropolitan troops to the south-
ern coast of Spain ; this induced the acting captain-
general to assemble the municipality, and levy on
the monied men twelve thousand piastres, in order
to send out some militia, and be prepared in case
of any inroads from the Carlists.

It was not easy to discover the prevalent opinion
in Spain. Whether the late events will put an
end to the civil war is not only problematical, but
scarcely any two Spaniards will give the same
opinion upon the subject. One gentleman informed
me that Espartero was moving from the north
down upon Cabrera; that he had 35,000 men;
and that O'Donnell on the other side was march-
ing upon him with 12,000; that Cabrera must
be placed between the two armies, and must sur-
render, he having now not more than 8,000 or
10,000 troops. Another person gave a different
version; his speculation was, that these absurd
rejoicings would make the Christinos so elate and
off their guard, as to give fresh advantages to the
Carlists in every quarter of Spain; that Cabrera
and Don C. d'Espana were determined to throw158

IMPRESSIONS.

themselves into the mountains, and never to aban-
don the cause; and that in every town and province
the sentiments of the people were so divided that
the country would continue a prey to perpetual
strife.

Between such conflicting information it is totally
impossible at this time to pronounce any decided
opinion; but my own impression is, that the war
is by no means at an end; the advantage, however
great, having been gained over one party, not by
a victory, not by amicable negotiation, but by the
blackest artifice and the most base and abominable
treason; and, that thirst of vengeance for these
proceedings will sink deep into the minds of the
conquered party, serving only to renew their fury,
and nursing embers that will ultimately blaze forth
in a fresh and equally devouring flame. It is,
however, to be remarked, that future events may,
in a great measure, depend upon the wisdom of
the manner in which the queen and the Christino
party now conduct themselves, and on the laws
and regulations which the Cortes may adopt.

A general amnesty is at present declared, whichPOLITICAL MEASURES.

159

directs all property sequestrated heretofore to be
returned to the owners, of whatsoever party they
may be, provided only that they come in and take
the oath of allegiance and fidelity to the young
queen. Another measure, equally judicious, is
the intention that is said to exist of giving, not
only the Basque, but all the provinces their fueros
and privileges : this, accorded, will tend greatly to
soften and allay the public and general discontent.
It is curious to observe, with regard to party sen-
timents, that in all the maritime places, the spirit
of the people and politics is of a liberal character;
but, as you come into the large cities of the inte-
rior, you immediately meet with a more royalist
and determined feeling; the farther you advance
into Spain the more decided does this appear.

The measure of abolishing the monasteries and
monks has been carried into effect most injudici-
ously, and I consider it a great loss to Spain. I
do not defend much of the conduct of this set;
but, surely, nothing ever was more cruel than
turning the whole of them out at once to starve.
It was certainly said at first that they were to be160

PRIESTS AND FRIARS.

paid a franc per day, which is a bare sustenance;
but this, like all other Spanish payments, soon
went to speculators, and the unfortunate wandering
priests and friars were obliged to take service with
the Carlists, or with any body, to escape dying
from want.

Had the government broken up these monas-
teries by degrees, and as their inmates died off, I
could understand such an arrangement, and do not
think it would have been unpopular in any part of
Spain, as there was very much that was reprehen-
sible in the monasteries and some of the orders;
but the wholesale annihilation of them all is one
of the many acts of folly and injustice committed
by the late rulers of the country.

I arrive here at another opinion, deduced from
my own personal observation in this country. It
is, that although a far finer people than the Por-
tuguese, I think that, equally with these their
neighbours, the Spaniards are not civilized enough
for liberal institutions; and that the ancient firm
and despotic governments of Spain and Portugal
are far better suited to national habits and charac-THE LIBERAL SYSTEM.

161

ter. In fact, in presenting them with these
baubles of constitutions, you have introduced, into
the municipal government of their provinces and
cities, the lowest and most artful and intriguing
attorneys and lawyers; men of no character, de-
void of principle, and only bent on making their
own fortunes. The real power and enjoyment of
liberal laws and usages are left to these sort of
authorities, while the old blood and birth in Spain
are crumbling into insignificance and poverty. By
the liberal system you are working a revolution,
raising up equality, and placing the hitherto
artisan, mechanic, and merchant, 'upon the same
footing with the grandee or noble; and will the
country be benefited when it has undergone this
metamorphosis ?

In inspecting also all the cathedrals and churches,
I cannot help observing, with reference to the
friars and monks, that their absence takes off
very greatly from the former solemnity and high
ceremonials of religion. The dress, appearance,
and often the age and demeanour, of a body of
friars, proceeding from a monastery, with all their

VOL. II.	M162

NAPOLEON :

religious attributes, to attend high mass, added
largely to the effect within the sacred edifice where
they were assembled. When you saw them also
mixed at other times with the population, receiving
and interchanging the friendly salute, and bestow-
ing good advice or instruction in the public mar-
kets and plazas, it breathed a feeling of union, of
bonds cemented between the peasant and the pas-
tor. All this I once saw in Portugal and Spain.
It is now all gone. The monks are scattered to
the winds, the nunneries are abolishing; and, it
will be seen in the next generation, whether order,
morality, or religion, is benefited by the present
ruin of what so long existed.

But, on recurring to the great changes in
Europe within the last thirty years, I feel con-
fident they are all to be traced to the French
revolution; and to the singular career of Napoleon,
who not only subjugated all countries within his
reach, with the exception of our own, but under-
stood and disseminated a feeling of universality, as
to language, taste, manners, and customs. Now,
travel where you will, from the Neva to the Gua-HIS INFLUENCE IN SPAIN.

163

dalquiver, from one end of Europe to the other,
through all its states, and you will not fail to
observe a general approximation to the habits,
customs, usages, dress, and manners of France,
which was not known fifty years ago.CHAPTER XXIII.

Rejoicing at Seville for the victories of Espartero—Prepa-
rations for a Bullfight—Description of the company assembled
in the Amphitheatre—Their amusements previously to the com-
mencement of the entertainment—Absence of vice and disorder
— Amateur Bullfighting — Preparations for the regular Exhi-
bition — Mounted Picadors — Banderilleros — The Matador-
Death of the Bull—Revolting Spectacle—Ancient Bullfights
contrasted with those of modern times — State Bullfights —
Visit to the Alcazar—Promenade in the Galleries of the Pa-
lace—Government Tobacco Manufacture—Murillos—Spanish
Ladies,CULL-FIGHT AT SEVILLE.

167

CHAPTER XXIII.

I have now to describe a bullfight. I have seen
one, and never desire to witness another.

This strange form of rejoicing, given to celebrate
the victories of Espartero, was settled for the 11th
October, at Seville; and we thought ourselves sin-
gularly fortunate in arriving so opportunely to wit-
ness a bullfight there, having a month before been
participating in a tournament at Eglinton Castle.
What scenes had we not beheld; what distance
traversed; what changes before our eyes, and
themes for contemplation, within one short month!

For these bullfights an immense amphitheatre is
constructed, outside one of the gates at Seville. To
compare the form and arrangement of the building,
but magnified six fold, to Astley's, is the nearest
and best idea I can give. It is made to hold about
15,000 persons. As this national amusement is168 THE AMATEUR OF THE BULL-FIGHT.

so much run after, and talked of by all strangers
visiting Spain, it may not be amiss to give a regular
detail of the spectacle from beginning to end, sup-
plied partly by a friend.

The real amateur of the bullfight prepares himself,
first of all, for the encierro (the stalling or shutting
in the bulls), to attend which he must find himself
without the city walls before daylight; there he
sees a long barrier running from the Plaza de Toro
to the open country, and through this the bulls are
to be driven (passing through the Plaza itself) into
the stable, where they remain till after midday,
when the fight itself takes place. Cruel and dis-
gusting as the bullfights are, still they afford many
points which cannot fail to make one, in some
degree, partake the excitement and interest they
awaken. To accompany the Sevillano as he gropes
his way through the narrow streets of Seville,
dressed in his majo (or smartest) costume; emerge
with him into the beautiful gardens that surround
his native town, and which, in spring, literally fill
the air with the perfume of their flowers ; then to
join the anxious crowd who are meeting from allWITNESSING THE ENCIERRO.	169

points, and hastening onwards to gain a seat in the
Plaza, forms a scene both curious and novel; and,
joining in the flowing stream, you are led towards
the Plaza, and enter whilst it is still shrouded in
the cloak of night; and yet you will find the places
already occupied, for so great are the excitement
and interest raised in the minds of this usually
dilatory people, that the pleasures of the Encierro
will induce them to take their seats in the bull-ring
the night before, and sit out the whole time, in
order to ensure a good place for witnessing their
beloved amusement.

The amateur then takes his station near the
door by which the bulls enter, or, perhaps, from
want of room, upon the barrier itself; there, light-
ing a cigar, he wraps his cloak round him, and, like
the thousands by whom he is surrounded, shuts
his eyes and falls asleep, to dream of the scenes of
joy that fill his mind. If he dreams not, every
minute seems an hour, until at length the eastern
sky is lighted up, and shortly seems on fire from
the rising sun. Seville and its bull-ring then offer
to the stranger (however little disposed to enjoy170

THE COMPANY.

the savage amusement he is about to witness),
a scene which he will long remember. Firstly;
the hour of daybreak, in more northern climates,
so chilly and uncomfortable, is here the happy
medium between heat and cold: the sun, like a
fiery ball, grandly rising, seems to give life as well
as light to all around. The richly ornamented
cathedral stands out with increased magnificence
against the eastern sky; the silent mass of
thousands of human beings who have been hitherto
lost in sleep; the men in their sombre cloaks, the
women in more sad-coloured matillas, seem at once
to receive life from the glowing beams; and the
whole scene is changed as by a touch of magic
from that hushed obscurity to bright day, and
noise, and joyfulness.

All eyes are eagerly bent towards the entrance
doors in anticipation of the long-delayed arrival of
the bulls ; videttes place themselves on the highest
parts of the building; and, from time to time, as
they see a circle of dust raised by the morning
breeze, give false alarms that the bulls are coming.
The stranger cannot help here observing one of theTHEIR GOOD MANNERS.

171

most remarkable traits in the Spanish character,
namely, their sobriety and gentleness of manners.
Certainly, upon such an occasion as the encierro,
there are many more of the lower than of the higher
classes assembled; and yet, one witnesses very
little, if any, quarrelling or drunkenness.

This absence of vice and disorder does not arise
from any interference of a police or armed force;
but it is the character of the people to amuse them-
selves with innocent pastimes rather than vice and
rioting. To dissipate this ennui until the bulls ar-
rive, sometimes one begins a favourite national air,
which is soon taken up and sung by many voices.
Now and then great merriment is excited by the
arrival of some buxom country lass, who, seeing
some of her friends well seated in the circus, very
unceremoniously makes her way to them over the
heads and shoulders of the crowd ; and where it
would appear impossible to wedge in a shaving, the
country belle, aided by the gallantry of her neigh-
bours, and by dint of elbowings and pinchings,
amidst the jeers and laughter of all around, will
soon loudly announce that " Thanks to God, she has172

APPROACH OF THE BULLS.

got a good place!" Thus easily and innocently
are these people amused and kept in good humour;
at length the cry is raised, " They come !"

" The signal falls—

The den expands, and expectation mute
Gapes round the silent circle's peopled walls."

Childe Harold, Stanza lxxv. Canto 1.

The doors that open into the Plaza are thrown
wide open, and also those that lead out of the Plaza
into the stables; in through the barrier gallops a
picador, having twenty bulls at his heels, half of
them tame, the other half wild, the former being
mixed with the latter, to induce them to go into
the stable or shed into which the picador gallops.
It often happens, however, that the wild bulls, when
they find themselves in the centre of the Plaza,
surrounded on all sides by thousands of people,
either do not see the exit left for them, or else
grow bewildered at the sudden change from their
own native and solitary hills to this confined space
and its numerous crowd, who further confuse and
enrage them by cheering, screaming, and throwing
things into the arena. Sometimes one or more ofAMATEUR BULL-FIGHTING.

173

the bulls separates from his companions, and looks
rage and defiance at the assembled crowd: his
anger is met by repeated peals of applause, and
oranges, handkerchiefs, &c., showered down from
all sides, aid in driving him to desperation. The
picadors now bring back the tame animals, using
every device, and exhibiting much skill and bra-
very in attempting to get the unruly bulls from the
area to the stables. This at last accomplished,
the first act is at an end.

Next in order comes the turning a bull into the
Plaza, to be killed by such of the people as are
" aficiniados (or amateurs) as they are termed, no
horsemen (or picadors) being admitted. The cruel
and disgusting part of the bullfight, viz. the goring
the horses, is here avoided ; and the bull appears
to have some sort of chance against his persecutors;
indeed, it rarely happens but that, at the beginning
of the encounter, the bull has the best of it; and
several novices are sent high into the air as a punish-
ment for their awkwardness and temerity. The
efforts of the bull always meet with the readiest
and most impartial applause; and " Bravo Toro !"BRAVERY OF THE BULL.

is shouted on all sides, when an amateur is discom-
fited. Sometimes a fresh bull will completely
clear the ring, and keep undisputed possession of
his domain for a time; but neither courage nor
strength can prevail against a host of enemies, who
escape and return again at pleasure, and thus, at
length—

" Foiled, bleeding, breathless, furious to the last,

Full in the centre stands the bull at bay,

'Mid wounds, and clinging darts, and lances brast,

And foes disabled in the brutal fray :

And now the matadors around him play,

Shake the red cloak, and poise the ready brand.

Once more through all he bursts his thundering way—

Vain rage ! the mantle quits the conynge hand,

Wraps his fierce eye—'tis past—he sinks upon the sand."

Here ceases the encierro, but it frequently hap-
pens that the crowd insist upon more, and thus
three or four bulls are killed amidst much clamour
and confusion.

To pass, however, from this medley of mischief
and confusion, the regular sight commences at
three o'clock. The whole of the respectable and
better part of the population of the city is at thatGOOD AND BAD BULL-FIGHTING. 175

hour assembled in their balconies or boxes, with
tiers of seats rising one above another, within the
interior of this very spacious theatre. In the
centre is the loge of state, appropriated to the cap-
tain-general and military officers of the province;
on the two sides of the edifice are two other boxes,
gaily decorated, where the judges and various pub-
lic officers sit. Four apertures, with double folding
gates, present themselves in the four quarters of
the circle. Two of these are devoted to the en-
trance of the bulls, and the picadors, knights on
horseback, and armed men ; the other two are ap-
propriated, one to draw off the dead horses, the
other the slain bulls, as I shall presently describe.

When the bull-fight is really good, the beasts to
be fought with should be the most savage and
splendid of their kind; and the horses, the noblest
animals in the world, should be really worthy of
the name in symmetry, strength, and power. But
when, instead of this, the bulls are young, miser-
able, and tame rather than wild; and that the
horses are contracted for, and furnished for slaugh-
ter, at the most moderate price; it may be well176

SORRY HORSES.

conceived that a combat, at all times savage and
disgusting, is turned into an exhibition not only
less ludicrous than contemptible, but disgraceful
for humanity to witness. I understood there were
six bulls to be killed, and for each it was averaged
four horses might be slain, so that twenty-four
horses were contracted for; and, literally, no dog
horses given to a kennel in England could be worse
than the animals upon which the soi-disant pica-
dors were mounted. They themselves were rolled
up in tow, flannels, and all sorts of old pieces of
armour, with a broad white Mambrino helmet-hat
upon their heads.

You may figure to yourself the half dozen of
these fellows, mounted as I have described, enter-
ing the lists with spears having a short point, and
parading round the arena with the flourish of trum-
pets. They make their obeisance to the chiefs in
the principal balcons, and take their stand by
threes, at different distances, round the encircled
space.

Another flourish of trumpets, and a yell as of
hell-hounds, now announces the arrival of bull theAPPEARANCE OF THE BULL.	177

first. Then in conies a beast, with coloured rib-
bons tied on his back, at a round trot or half-
canter : he runs up to the mounted picador, who
defends himself with his spear, while the magnani-
mous bull gores his horns into the entrails of the
horse, which he raises on high, and throws off the
picador, who scrambles out of the barrier as well
as he is able. The bull trots away after this, or
some feat of the same sort, and then in rush a
number of gaily dressed assailants, in coloured
jackets, laced and covered with buttons, short
hose, white stockings and slippers, and with im-
mense clubs of hair; all bearing streamers of cloth
of different colours, in order to entice or irritate
the bull. They surround him, each trying to at-
tract his attention ; and, when he runs at any one,
the rest are all upon his flanks and rear. They
confound him effectually by rolling the coloured
streamer into a narrow compass, and then with
great dexterity running and throwing it suddenly
near the bull's nose or eyes. He darts at the per-
son who thus attacks; but, on his very agile re-
treat, the cloth opens out, and entangles the bull's
VOL. II.	N178.

BANDERILLEROS.

fore feet, when another and another assailant
succeeds.

Simultaneously with these, the mounted pica-
dors advance, and tempt the bull to run at them;
but they studiously avoid charging upon him, and
only expect the assault, which, if he undertakes,
his flanks and rear are instantly assailed by the
whole body of the combatants. Another clang of
the trumpets resounds, and there enter two men,
called banderilleros,with sharp-pointed darts decked
with ribbons; they run with great dexterity at
the head of the bull, and plant their javelins in his
neck and shoulders. The animal now grows more
furious and maddened with the pain—and, to dis-
tract him further, the crackers and fireworks at-
tached to the javelins ignite and explode by some
spontaneous process, while these darts are sticking
in his flesh. The attack proceeds, perhaps, for
half an hour, until the animal, by great loss of
blood, which streams from his flanks, becomes ex-
hausted and nearly beaten: but, during this time,
he may have contrived to tumble over some of his
assailants, and kill with his horns two or three more
horses.THE MATADOR.

179

The last trumpet now sounds, and a general ex-
citement is apparent; and then enters the great
chief of the spectacle, the matador, to whom is
awarded the distinguished and honourable employ-
ment of running a sword into the neck of a goaded,
jaded, mangled bull. This man appears with a
finer dress than the other combatants, carrying a
scarlet streamer as his distinguishing mark, and
bearing a long sword. He proceeds to say that he
will kill the bull in honour of the queen, or alcalde,
or any one whom he chooses to name, and then,
waiting until the animal, attracted by the scarlet
flag, rushes towards it, he places the sword so that
the bull receives it near his spine.

The amphitheatre then resounds with acclama-
tions ; the matador bows; a set of mules capari-
soned, and harnessed four a-breast, arrive, and the
dead beast is tied to their heels. Another set of
the same description also appear, to which the
dead horses in the ring are likewise fastened ; and
these two separate corteges, with all their followers,
trot out by the different folding-doors I have before
described. No sooner are the slain animals hauled

N 2180

REVOLTING SPECTACLE.

out, than the shrill horns with loud voice proclaim
a renewed fight, and Bull No. 2 is let loose into the
circle. He is of a different hue from the first, and
equally ornamented with various coloured ribbons.

The same proceedings are now repeated; and
although I might describe the various disgusting
exhibitions of five successive beasts, and detail how
their gored carcases floated in blood, and the en-
trails of the poor, miserable, wounded horses were
dragging on the ground ; and although I might re-
late more or less minutely the agility of the com-
batants, it is doubtful whether my readers would
more thoroughly comprehend the scene I have wit-
nessed than by the description already given. I
turn then from dwelling on these detestable and
revolting spectacles ; and, though I cannot but ad-
mit that there is a certain degree of excitement as
the attack on the animal proceeds, still the whole
sickens you with indescribable horror when all is
over. I must state, however, in fairness, that it
was universally declared the bulls were very indif-
ferent, and the whole affair very badly got up, and
that the managers of the concern were to be pu-ANCIENT BULL-FIGHTS.

181

nished accordingly : but I think I have related and
seen enough to be certain that a bull-fight, under
any circumstances or arrangements, far from being
considered an exhibition of festivity and gratifica-
tion, should be banished for ever from the eyes of
a civilized nation.

It is but right to observe that, though the spec-
tacle as at present is sufficiently revolting, it has,
according to competent authority, lost, in the
course of time, and in the confusion and distresses
of the whole country, very much of the splendours
that formerly rendered the bull-fight of Spain so
celebrated in other lands as well as in its own.
When the flower of the chivalry of the proudest
nation in the world descended into the arena, and
the highest names of Spain sought distinction and
renown by their exploits in the circus, the barba-
rity of the amusement was in a great degree veiled
from the eye, or compensated by the extreme mag-
nificence of the appointments, and often by the
real dangers attendant on the scene. But now
that the whole has sunk into a mere exhibition of
hired combatants, men of a very low caste in so-
ciety, instead of the chiefs and heroes of former182

STATE BULL-FIGHT.

days, and that the noble war-steeds of olden time
have given way to the wretched and miserable
hacks that alone are now brought forward, the
harness and trappings of the horses, and the deco-
rations of the picadors, matadors, and banderilleros
—in short, the whole display being deteriorated to
a mere paltry show, the spectacle is any thing but
ennobling, and affords no better idea of the for-
mer glories that illustrated it, than the processions
and tinsel glitter of a booth at the fair gives of
a royal pageant in its reality.

The bull-fights, as got up now in general, are not
to be compared to those on the more rare occa-
sions, when the sovereign, or any part of the royal
family, attend in state. The last instance of this
was in the time of Ferdinand VII., who was pre-
sent at one such spectacle, with his queen and the
court. On that occasion, as is stated by an eye-
witness, the ancient feudal forms were revived with
great splendour; the hirelings were dispensed with;
and the exhibitors of the circus were really, it is
said, the nobles of the land. The bulls, too, were
the finest that could be procured; and the horses,
equipages, and appointments, are affirmed to haveALCAZAR.

183

sustained their ancient renown, and to have formed
a splendid contrast to the miserable proceedings
of the present day.

We had a very interesting inspection on Satur-
day, the 12th of October, of the remaining lions of
Seville, under the guidance of Mr. Williams, our
vice-consul, who is married to a Spanish lady, has
considerable property in Spain, and brings up his
family as Spanish citizens. This gentleman first
conducted us to the Alcazar, the old Moorish resi-
dence of the kings of Spain. It was inhabited a
short time ago by Ferdinand VII., who removed,
however, its splendid furniture to Madrid. It is
now entirely empty; and we had once more the
intendant, with his bunch of interminable keys,
and interminable lockings and unlockings, with
which we had previously been so familiarized. The
style of the Moorish architecture it is difficult to
describe without drawings. In the interior of their
houses are small courts with arches all round, and
lined with china or tiles; small columns of marble
of different colours, and in groups, with arches
springing from them; ceiling of the most beautiful
fretwork, and inlaid entablatures. The queen had184

COMMODIOUS GALLERY.

ordered this palace to be renewed, and the work-
men were in the building.

Connected with the palace is a long double gal-
lery, above and below, which communicates at a
great distance with the towers of one of the gates
of the city, from whence you can walk all round
the walls : and the royal personages have thus, in
fine weather, the advantage of a most extensive
and beautiful ground promenade adjoining the
splendid gardens, which are arranged in the old
French style, with square box borders, and orange,
citron, myrtle, and jessamine trees, together with
numerous fountains in the centre. They can also
walk in the first floor of the same gallery in like
manner, completely protected from rain and bad
weather, when necessary. This palace is an exqui-
site model of Moorish taste, and drawings that are
preparing for the public will soon give a better
notion of it than any description of mine.

We next went to the government tobacco ma-
nufactory. This building cost one million and a
half sterling, and is devoted wholly to tobacco and
cigars: it is one of the most curious exhibitions
imaginable.CIGAR MAKERS.

185

In its court at this time a sort of arsenal was
formed. The Sevillians had feared the entrance of
Gomez into the place when he made his extraordi-
nary march in 1838, and they drew all the cannon
from the ramparts, thinking these too extended,
and determining to make this building their cita-
del. In the interior of the edifice, the tobacco, as
it arrives from the Havannah and South America,
is pounded by mills and machinery, the former
worked entirely by mules. After seeing this very
curious process, you are ushered up stairs into a
quadrangular arched space of immense extent,
■where you behold no less than 2500 girls, all
making cigars from the bruised leaves of the to-
bacco plant. They sit at square tables, or squads,
as it were, and over each hundred there is a female
inspector. They assemble from the city and vil-
lages for this work at ten in the morning, and are
allowed to bring their dinner; they dine at one
o'clock, and are dismissed home at five. Amongst
so many girls, strange to say, nearly all were
ugly; fine eyes and hair occasionally; but, for the
most part, though gay-looking, happy, and healthy,
they were excessively diminutive and plain. It is186

MURILLOS.

singular to conceive that this filthy and poisonous
habit of smoking, producing, I believe, no possible
good to mankind, but, on the contrary, heaviness,
stench, and stupidity, should employ and give a
livelihood to near 3000 of the female sex, who are
occupied in the sole process of rolling the tobacco-
leaf up into the shape of that odious implement of
filth, a cigar.

From this manufactory we went to the hospital
and church of St. John. In the latter there are
three of the finest Murillos in Seville. Indeed I
have seldom been more enchanted than in viewing
one of these chefs d'ceuvre. The subject is St. John
carrying a sick man to the hospital, but, when
borne down by the weight, and sinking under it,
he turns round, and beholds an angel at his side,
come to assist him. The expression of the old
man, and the light and shade, and brightness and
transparency of the angel, are wonderful evidences
of this painter's art. The two other Murillos are
Scripture pieces —the one, Moses striking the
rock in the desert; and the other, Jesus feeding
the multitude with loaves and fishes. These are
placed very high in the church, and are not in aSPANISH PICTURES.	187

good light: they are highly esteemed, but they did
not awaken my sensations like the painting above
described.

The king of the French recently sent a celebra-
ted painter to take a copy of this Murillo of Saint
John and the Angel, and bought also several pic-
tures in Seville; amongst others, the portrait of
Murillo, by himself, which he got from Mr. Wil-
liams, our vice-consul, at a high price. This gen-
tleman has a considerable collection; and many very
good pictures of the Spanish school have recently
been purchased by Mr. Standish, a gentleman of
considerable fortune, who is spending his time and
money with the natives of Seville, where he has
a fine house, painted a Vltalienne, and fitted up
brilliantly. He was so kind as to give us a con-
cert with all the opera performers, after which was
a sitting-down supper, and a ball which lasted till
a late hour in the morning.

Since writing this account, it was with great
regret I learned the decease of Mr. Standish, and
that he had left his collection of pictures to the
King of the French instead of to the National Gal-
lery in England; which, it is said, would have been188

SPANISH LADIES.

the case, could lie have prevailed on the minister
of the day to create him a baronet.

The Spanish ladies, I regret to say, are almost
universally leaving off the national dress of black
and the mantilla; "wherever they can, they now
adopt colours, and ape the modern French and
English fashions. Indeed, it is a question, whether
the mantilla itself would not be entirely laid aside
also, if they were not compelled to go in it to
church and to their priests. Nothing saves it but
its connexion with religious forms, and these will
always have a dominating influence in Spain.
There was, however, formerly so much character
in the mantilla, the Spanish eyes, the Spanish
forms, and the gait;—the joint attraction of all
was so peculiarly national, that abandoning them
for a very bad imitation of French toilette detracts
largely from the appearance of the Spanish fair.
The generality of the better class in Seville are by
no means handsome, and the women are singularly
little; except one new-married lady, a Marquesa
Ventosa, there was not any striking person amongst
Mr. Standish's numerous visitors.CHAPTER XXIV.

Shops in Seville — Spanish Luxuries — Interior Chapels of
the Cathedral—Visit to the Nunnery of St. Agnes—Legend
of Santa Inez—Injustice inflicted on the Nuns of Spain by the
Government of the country —Interior of a Convent — Body of
Dona Inez—A new crime—Public Entertainments — Cadiz —
—Visit to Xeres—Manufacture of Sherry—An early Marriage
—Fortifications of Cadiz—Cape Trafalgar — African Coast—
Voyage to Tanjier.SHOPS IN SEVILLE.

191

CHAPTER XXIV.

The shops in Seville are poor and indifferent;
the proprietors, nevertheless, spend all their time
in them, greedy to catch a farthing; and while this
cupidity is evident in every little transaction, they
allay another habitual thirst by tumblers of cold
water, which they are constantly swallowing, and
which is sold at every corner of the streets; indeed,
water and cigars appear to be the only luxuries of
the Spaniards. I ought, however, also to specify
the garlic, which ladies in society inflict upon you;
but they can have no idea of the disgust it pro-
duces in a stranger, or a Spanish maid would
hardly care so little about her charms as to over-
whelm them all with an effluvium that really
forbids approach.

On Sunday there was an Astley's exhibition in192

SACRED ORNAMENTS.

the bull-fight theatre, which, however, I did not
attend.

On the 14th, as early as ten o'clock in the
morning, we once more visited the cathedral, to
see the interior chapels. The five Murillos that
adorn them require from artists the longest and
most attentive examination; they are generally
hung high; and this is the more to be lamented,
as the painter's style is dark. The composition
that pleased me most was, that of an archbishop
giving alms to a miserable peasant; but others
have described all the paintings so accurately, that
there is no occasion for me to add more on the
subject.

The remaining extraordinary curiosities of this
gothic edifice are, the silver temple, and the jewels
and relics belonging to the chapter, together with
various other rare and valuable property. The
temple, composed of solid silver, may be by weight
estimated at not more than three or four thousand
pounds; but its workmanship surpasses all descrip-
tion. The figures and subjects upon it are alle-
gorical, and extracted from the bible. It standsAN ESPECIAL PRIVILEGE.

193

thirty or thirty-five high, is enclosed in a recess,
and below are various candelabra, and other rich
and ancient articles, preserved from the time of
the Moors. When Soult commanded at Seville,
his soldiers panted to carry off the temple, but, to
his honour, he would not allow it. There is an
especial privilege in this cathedral, and connected
with this temple, which is placed expressly for the
ceremony on the altar; namely, that dancing before
it is permitted, and even enjoined, as a mode of
divine worship; and it is performed accordingly on
certain solemn and particular days.

This custom is almost obsolete in the Christian
church, and seems more pagan than Christian; as
in the whirling dervises of Persia and Turkey, and
the Pagoda dancing girls, who exhibited in Eng-
land and Europe some few years ago.

From the inspection of the cathedral, we pro-
ceeded, by great and especial favour, to see the
nunnery of St. Agnes. It is seldom that gentle-
men are suffered to enter; but, in all our attempts
to examine every thing worthy of remark in this
town, we were greatly facilitated by the experience

VOL. II.	o194

LEGEND OF SANTA INEZ.

and zeal of Mr. Williams; and, I must add, very
kindly attended to by all the municipal authorities
of the place. The nunnery was founded about the
year 1250, not more than seventy years after the
expulsion of the Moors from this part of the
country, by a young Andalusian lady, Dona Maria
Coronela, whose husband had rebelled against Don
Pedro, and was put to death, and who was equally
famed for her beauty and riches. The former
attracted the attention of her sovereign, Peter the
Cruel, who, for a length of time, endeavoured, by
every means in his power, (and who possessed so
many advantages as a despotic sovereign,) to obtain
the love of Dona Maria. His efforts, however,
proving abortive, (flowers, says a miraculous
legend, sprang up to their full growth in a single
night, to conceal her,) the failure but the more
inflamed the passions of Peter, and he determined
to obtain by violence the favours which he was
unable to obtain by fair means. For this purpose,
he one day paid a visit to Dona Maria, unattended,
and finding his prayers, as usual, disregarded by
the fair one, he suddenly attempted to seize her;THE LADY ABBESS.

195

but, in the struggle, she contrived to escape from
the grasp of her persecutor, and, rushing from the
room, reached the kitchen, where she seized hold
of a jar which happened to contain boiling oil, and
threw it over her face and neck, making herself
from that moment as repulsive an object as can be
imagined; but she gloried in the preservation of
her honour, at the expense of her beauty. Dona
Maria became a devotee, and finally a nun, devo-
ting her whole fortune—which had been confiscated
by Don Pedro, for her husband's rebellion, but was
restored her by King Henry when he came to the
throne—to endowing a convent, in which she her-
self became an inmate, as the sister Inez and her
house at Seville formed the nunnery, and was
called, after her, the Convent of Santa Inez.

We were kept, I know not how long, waiting at
the parlitorio by the Lady Abbess, who expressed
her surprise at our having selected the poor con-
vent of Santa Inez to visit, out of so many larger
and finer at Seville, assuring us that we should be
the first party of gentlemen who ever put their
feet within the walls since the days of Dona Maria.

o 2196

NUNS IN SPAIN.

I asked the Lady Abbess if they were happy in
their present neglected impoverished state; she said,
if they could get wherewithal to live upon, they
would be as happy as ever they were; that, although
they were all now free to leave the convent if they
pleased, the young, as well as the old, all remained;
and that many had friends who would be glad to
take them to their houses, but that the habit of
living together, without cares or troubles, and with
the comfort of their religion, was preferable to any
other existence. She assured me, (and which I
am certain was the fact,) that they had been left
now eleven months without the promised pittance
from the government of tenpence a-day.

There is no party, I believe, or no man in the
country, who can approve of the shameful cruelty
and injustice inflicted upon the poor nuns of Spain;
their case is quite different from that of the monks;
and so strong is the feeling upon the subject, that
where the property of the monks, during the late
revolution, could find ready purchasers, that of the
nuns was seldom or with difficulty disposed of, or
at a very low rate, and this from the conviction,THE SPANISH GOVERNMENT.	197

that, whenever a strong government should arise in
Spain, the case of the property of the nuns will be
fairly dealt with. The facts are simply these
every lady becoming a nun in Spain is obliged to
bring a certain sum of money with her as a sort of
dowry; and the amount thus subscribed together
by the nuns of any one convent was invested in
the purchase of property, from the proceeds of
which these poor creatures existed. However
wise or politic it may be to decide that monas-
teries and nunneries should be abolished, no pos-
sible excuse or reason can be given for taking from
these poor women the property which they have
had invested for them by their families, and which
afforded them a bare subsistence. This is not the
opinion of any one political party, but must be the
feeling in every honourable and manly breast.

The nuns of Santa Inez now amount to only
twenty-nine, and are literally in a state of starva-
tion ; about seven or eight of the elder nuns accom-
panied us through the building, which was remark-
able for neatness and cleanness in every part. The
interior arrangements differ but little from those198

INTERIOR OF A CONVENT.

of the generality of monasteries, excepting that
monks generally sleep in separate cells, whereas
the nuns have two very large dormitories, one for
winter and the other for summer; they were using
the summer one during our visit, and the beds
were separated by curtains, running entirely round
each. The dormitorio was a fine airy hall, and
the linen of snowy whiteness; in the centre of the
building was a large court, (or patio,) stored with
a quantity of shrubs and flowers. The most in-
teresting part of the convent was the chapel, in a
corner of which is a large glass coffin, containing
the embalmed body of Dona Inez, dressed in a
rich robe of blue silk and silver. The body had
remained two hundred years under ground, before
it was taken up and placed in the coffin it now
occupies. The marks of the hot oil are still plainly
visible on the dry parchment-looking face of the
corpse; and a medical gentleman who was with
us corroborated our suppositions on this point.

When first the curtain was withdrawn which
concealed the dried-up remains of the lady whose
beauty and misfortunes had just been related toDONNA INEZ.

199

us, a deep feeling of interest and sadness seemed
to come over the whole party; nor would it be
possible, I think, for the merriest or most thought-
less person to have viewed the sunken features of
this lady, with her thin bony hands crossed upon
her breast, without a momentary pang of sorrow
—recollecting, that the unsightly object now
looked upon had once outshone all rivals in this
far-famed land of beauty; and that this highly-
prized but fatal gift had brought its possessor with
such pain or sorrow to the grave—the destroyer
and the destroyed have now each their splendid
tomb;—a daily spectacle for idle tourists, and dif-
fering only in this, that against the former is often
uttered a curse, in remembrance of his many cruel
acts; at the latter, a silent tear falls at the re-
collection of her beauty, her virtues, and her
woes.

Outside of the town, and near the gate of Xeres,
stood formerly the Quemadero, a raised square or
place for burning heretics condemned by the Inqui-
sition to death; and for the execution of its minor
punishments also. The last who suffered death200	PUBLIC ENTERTAINMENTS.

here was a poor woman, convicted of witchcraft
about sixty years ago, her crime being the laying
of eggs after the manner of hens!

We also saw on Monday, the 14th, the Longa,
or library. There is nothing remarkable in the
latter, except some curious missals.

At night we attended a public concert and
fusion ball, to which the authorities of the city
invited us. The function seems to be the name
for all public ceremonies, or grand exhibitions of
every kind. The one we attended was held in the
magnificent palace and room of the longa; the
outer court of which was covered with an awn-
ing. It commenced with a concert, performed
by public artists and private amateurs; after this,
an improvisitore made an extempore oration in
favour of the peace just concluded, and in honour
of Espartero and Christina. All this passed (curi-
ously enough amidst such rejoicings for the event)
in solemn silence. At one in the morning the ball
commenced, and it continued till five or six; but
there were no national dances. They attempted
only a sort of quadrille and waltz mixed. I didSPANISH PICTURES.

201

not remain long, but was happy to get relieved
from a great crowd and mixture of people, more
plain, (always barring the eyes), and more ill-
formed than I had ever seen collected before.

Previously to taking leave of Seville, I must do
justice to our Vice-Consul's extraordinary taste for
pictures. He has aided Mr. Standish in making a
singularly fine collection. I should also name here
M. Berquet, a young Spanish painter of peculiar
merit, from whom I bought a few works.

On arriving early in the morning of the 15 th,
when the gates were shut, at Cadiz, we found that
our kind friend the consul, Mr. Brakenbury, had
been so obliging as to have an order from the Go-
vernor-General, Villa Loboz, to open them; and
his carriage was there to convey us to our hotel.
That morning we really needed repose, and took it
completely; the consul and some friends dining
with us at the hotel.

On the 15th, too, the various shops at Cadiz were
visited; the Governor, Villa Loboz, whom I called
on, was extremely civil; he talked most valiantly
of all Espartero would do on his arrival in Arra-202

A NEW EXPEDITION.

gon and Valencia, but he admitted that Cabrera
was very powerful, and had two millions of
piastres in the bank at Naples; and farther, that
he would continue the struggle till he was exter-
minated.

It was proposed to us now by our friends, Cap-
tain Lyon of the Merlin, and Captain Bentinck of
the Antelope, who placed their yachts at our dis-
position, to make an expedition to Tangier; but in
order to do so with the greatest advantage it was
necessary to arrive there on one of their grand
days, Thursday or Sunday. It certainly was a case
of considerable hurry and fatigue to leave Cadiz
so soon as the following Thursday, and we had not
yet visited Xeres ; but the same spirit that marked
the course of my companion's decisions during our
tour did not desert her here ; it became, therefore,
absolutely necessary to go on Wednesday, the 16th,
(being the last day) to Xeres, as we had determi-
ned not to miss choosing wine from that extraor-
dinary vineyard.

We engaged one of the steamers, of about
twenty-four horse power, that ply between CadizSPANISH EQUIPAGES.

203

and Port St. Mary's, to take us at eight o'clock;
but, arriving too late, we were under the necessity
of embarking in an open felucca of the place,
which added not a little to the interest of the sail-
ing trip. We found at St. Mary's Mr. Gordon's
two sons, whom he had sent with his equipage to
receive us; this consisted, 1st, of a large double
open cabriolet, to which were harnessed seven fine
long-tailed gray stallions, the coachman driving
all the team with one rein; he was dressed out
with slouched hat, clubbed hair, sash, &c., and had
a large whip; but a single rein, as stated, guided
his animals. 2nd, and next to this turn out, was
an armed cavalier, on a prancing Spanish steed,
with demi-pique saddle, pistols, carbines, &c. 3rd,
came a very old fashioned "one-horse-shay," in
which the two young men preceded the escort.
We had about ten miles to go to Xeres town, in
the centre of which Mr. Gordon lives; the road,
where it was paved, was so abominable as to surpass
description, and we were all shaken to jelly : in-
deed, in every part it was very bad.

The rain unfortunately now came down in tor-204

FINE SHERRY.

rents; and having had no protection but coats
and umbrellas, we arrived, tolerably drenched,
at our journey's end. We were most kindly and
hospitably received, and were told dinner would
be ready at two o'clock, in order to enable us to
return early to Cadiz ; and in the meantime were
invited to see the cellars, and taste the wine. Some
description of these cellars may be acceptable to
amateurs*

Mr. Gordon took us to various vaulted, long
rooms, or barns, in each of which were the wines
of the different years, disposed in rows one above
another. He told me that, altogether, I saw col-
lected 4500 butts of sherry.

His people then brought trays with many glasses,
and the first three wines he made me taste were
pale sherry of £75 per butt, brown sherry of ditto,
and common sherry of £30 ditto. It may well be
conceived that the last was as bad as the wine at
an English inn; and Mr. Gordon admitted that it
was made up only for the most ordinary export to
America. Of his two finer class wines I preferred
the pale; but he next produced the two same sortsCOLOURING WINE.

205

at £100 per "butt, and they were very far superior.
On my inquiring the cause of difference between
pale and brown sherry, and the enormous disparity
of prices in the article, Mr. Gordon frankly told
me that all sherry wine was of the same light
colour in its infancy, getting dark and brown the
older it grows and the longer it is kept in the
butt; but the artificial process of making it dark
is accomplished by keeping the oldest kind of
sherry, which is called Madre, and colouring the
younger wine with it. In short, the whole history
seems to lie in the mixing of the wine, its age, and
the number of voyages it has made to the East
Indies; and the degree of management of all the
mixing and manufacturing, before it is started for
exportation, rests, after all, in the discretion of the
proprietor alone.

Getting perfectly pure wine is therefore a chi-
mera ; and the wine drinkers in England may do
well to consider what changes it goes through ia
our merchants' hands. The best I tasted at Mr.
Gordon's was £100 pale sherry, and this I ordered
for myself and friends. We next tasted wines of206

AN EARLY MARRIAGE.

different ages, the oldest always certainly the best;
and lastly, the wine just come from the vineyard,
and still fermenting, which looked like a dose of
rhubarb, and was as luscious as it was nasty.

Going through such a process in two hours gave
me a tolerably severe head-ache; but I rallied for
dinner, which was served in the Spanish fashion.
Two of Mr. Gordon's sons are married to their two
cousins in the same family; and I was particularly
struck with the lady-like manners and charming
appearance of Mrs. Charles Gordon, who I under-
stood had been educated in Ireland. Her husband
told me that at eleven years old he went over with
her, then only six, in the same ship to Dublin;
that he fell in love with her on the passage; and
married her, with his father's consent, the first
moment he could do so, when she was fourteen or
fifteen, and himself only nineteen or twenty.

After dinner there was much bargaining for fine
old fans, the ware of this part of the world; and
we returned at six o'clock to Cadiz in a shut-up
carriage, or rather old English chariot, escorted
by the two Messrs. Gordon on their barbed steeds,FORTIFICATIONS.

207

half armed, with cloaks and caparisoned accou-
trements; strongly reminding us of the land of
Don Quixote and his achievements. Nothing
could be more obliging than the conduct of these
young men.

Before leaving Cadiz it may be as well to remark
that if you approach the town by land, it is so
strongly fortified as to appear almost impregnable.
There is a narrow causeway extending for some
miles, which is commanded by upwards of eighty
pieces of cannon. They are now in a great measure
dismantled, and probably the improvements of
steam navigation, and other considerations, may
bear upon the policy of placing all these works
again in their previous state. But in former times
they presented an insuperable barrier to approach-
ing Cadiz by land. The present greatly dilapidated
state of the works, and the large barracks all deso-
late and deserted, going fast to decay, like the
fortunes that originally created them, give a gloom
to this portion of the city, and stand strongly in
contrast with the dwellings of many rich mer-
chants who still remain, and carry your imagina-208

CAPE TRAFALGAR.

tion back to the palmy days of Cadiz, when her
port teemed with successful commerce, and she
boasted and deserved the name of the Tyre of the
West.

After leaving Cadiz, you shortly weather Cape
Trafalgar.

Peace to the souls of those who sleep
Fall many a fathom deep
By thy wild and stormy steep !

A small rock or island is at the foot of the
cape. The coast is high and bold, but rocky,
parched, and bare; further on shows another
headland, Cape Meca ; it is a fine bluff point, with
also a small rock at its base. Both these islands
are marked by a small watch tower on each; there
are various others along the high coast, said to be
places of look-out, formerly, for the Moors, who
used to make forays here in by-gone days. How
beautiful the feluccas here are ? They have a sort
of a mop on the bow which prevents the yard from
chafing, and has the appearance of a powdered
head. On each side of the bow is generally painted
a large eye, as if the whole was a monstrous head.THE AFRICAN COAST.

209

On nearing Tarifa you pass the small town of
Couel, and shortly after discover the coast of
Africa. Cape Spartel is very conspicuous, and
the high mountain called the Apes Hill. The
highest house at Tarifa rises like a ship in the
middle of the strait. The shore of Spain here is
beautiful, from its abrupt feature. Near Tarifa
Point, the Spaniards met the Moors in battle,
and the place bears the name of the Lances of
Tarifa.

On the 21st, we were obliged to go on board the
yacht at an early hour to proceed to Tangier. We
took leave of the Brakenburys with real regret and
gratitude for their constant attentions. Lady L.
was unable to get through the fatigue of walking
in the hot streets of Cadiz, and Mr. B's. pony
carriage was, as always, at her disposal.

As we were embarking, the Xarifa with Lord and
Lady Wilton sailed into the Bay of Cadiz. They
had started from England a week before us, and we
were now five weeks before them in the necessary
lions they had, like ourselves, to go through.
This is a tolerably good specimen of the advantage

VOL. II.	P210

ROUGH VOYAGE.

of steam over yacht arrangements. They pressed
us to stay and join their party, and argued ill of
our attempts to put to sea: but our commodore,
Captain Lyon, laughed at their fears; adding, with
a seaman's boldness, that neither adverse winds nor
threatening clouds ever altered his course; and that
as to the prophecy held out by them to intimidate us,
viz. that if we put to sea we should anchor again in
the bay before dark, he would sooner carry us to
the West Indies, where he himself was bound, than
act thus like landsmen. This was certainly rather
alarming; nevertheless we sailed, and a pretty dance
we had of it all night; the wind right in our teeth,
and a very heavy swell. However, we beat up
well to the windward, and the Antelope cutter,
anchoring an hour before the Merlin schooner,
brought us to Tangier about noon on the 22d.

On going ashore I waited on Mr. Hay Drum-
mond, the British consul, who, with unexam-
pled readiness and courtesy, placed his house at
our disposal; and as, except the government-
houses, which the consuls occupy, there is no
residence at Tangier fit to receive an EnglishAN OBLIGING CONSUL.

211

lady, we were too glad to avail ourselves of our
consul's kind and generous offer. The boats of the
yacht were soon lowered, and the whole party set
ashore. Mrs. Hay had literally abandoned her
own apartments for her guests. These are traits
of character and kindness that should be known,
and which must be duly appreciated by our tra-
velling countrymen.

The contrast between a liberal and obliging
consul, and a parsimonious, indifferent, and for-
bidding minister, is always sure to be marked in
the records of travellers in a manner injurious
and derogatory to the character of the latter class
of public servants, even as gentlemen.

The first view of Tangier Bay is extremely im-
posing, with the well-wooded high ground of Africa
behind, and the white elevated tiers of houses,
which form in a cluster and compose the town.
A once strong, but old and dilapidated mole, or
defence, runs far into the ocean on the southern
side of the bay; the northern part of it is entirely
destroyed, and what remains of the portion alluded
to is in a state of decay and demolition. There

p 2212

TANGIER.

was formerly a magnificent port here, and a well-
defended harbour, sufficient to contain a large fleet
of ships. It is well known that Charles II. received
Tangier with a Portuguese princess as her dowry,
and that it was long occupied by the English, and
money voted for continuing and maintaining the
possession; but Charles possessed himself of the
money, and then recalled the troops, abandoning
the place, which fell into the hands of the Moors
and Arabs, headed by a pacha, under the dominion
of the Sultan.CHAPTER XXV.

First Impressions on Landing in Africa — The Moors of
Africa at the present Day a Degenerate Race—Moorish Market
—Arab Encampment—Visit to a Moorish Village—A Moorish
Concert—Lady L/3 Interview with the Pacha's Wives—Ill-
Treatment of the Jews by the Moors—Arabs on their way to
Mecca—Voyage to Gibraltar—Visit on Board a Dutch Frigate
to Prince Henry of Orange — Grand Review — Inspection of
the Fortifications—Weakness of the Sea Defences—Gibraltar
and Cintra—Excursion to Algesiras—Expedition to Ceuta-—
Smuggling at Gibraltar — Strength of Ceuta—The French in
Africa.FIRST LANDING IN AFRICA.	215

CHAPTER XXV.

The effect of first landing in Africa is most
extraordinary to the mind and senses of an Eu-
ropean. You read of the Arabs in the desert,
you hear of the Moors in Africa; but seeing objects
before you so different from any upon which your
eye has ever previously dwelt, produces a singular
impression. Though not of a contemplative cha-
racter, I own that, on treading this strange land,
my first thoughts were turned to the discriminating
beneficence of a bountiful Providence, who seems
to have supplied for every climate, for every coun-
try, for every soil, the very and essential requisites
which the welfare and condition of the beings that
inhabit it demand.

This is strongly apparent in the exquisitely ver-
dant valleys, the aloes, the plane and orange trees,216

THE MOORS.

the pumpkins, the grapes, and the reviving showers;
and also in the soil itself, which, even with
scanty, indolent, rude, and unskilful culture pro-
duces the finest growth in every object that is
planted.

The next reflection arises from the fact of
these Moors, formerly one of the finest people
under heaven, being now degenerated into the
most brutal and barbarous race. Whence can
this decadence have originated ? For what ob-
ject is it placed before our eyes ? To the Moors
of Africa and Spain we owe much of our proficiency
in the sciences—mathematics, medicine, chemistry,
astronomy, law, history, poetry, &c.; all arts
then in existence were theirs; Spain overflows
with the wonders of their greatness and works;
Tangier and Africa present arches, bridges, and
columns; records matchless beyond all that modern
times have ever imagined or achieved ; and yet all
this is passed away, and

" Like the baseless fabric of a vision,

Leaves scarce a wreck behind."

What data, then, have we not for presumingVISIT TO TANGIER.

217

that a similar fate in ages to come may hover over
our own now powerful and happy island ! At all
events, it is not possible to see the shores of Africa
without a thousand reflections of this and a similar
nature occupying the mind and imagination.

Tangier has the apparent remains of strength;
but the mole is in total decay, and the fortifications
mostly in ruins. It is well known that it was a
long time held as a British possession, and sold by
one of the Charles's. I confess I wish it was still
belonging to the British crown.

The first impressions are beyond measure amusing.
I was carried from a boat in the arms of two Moors,
men of large stature and tawny colour, enveloped
in white coarse cloaks, or tunics, which likewise
cover all their head in a turban-like shape, leaving
only the legs and arms, which are quite bare, and
black rather than brown—I mean of such even as
are not positively negroes, which many of the Moors
are. I was then tumbled into a melee of Jews,
Turks, and Arabs from the desert, with their camels
and dromedaries at hand, laden with provisions for
the market; this was the first scene of my enjoy-218

MOORISH MARKET.

ment. Not a female figure was to be seen, save
a row of sellers of bread, who had all their faces
covered up, except one eye that was peeping out.
These I was informed were women ; but they
differed from the men in no other distinguishing
feature, apparently, than having their faces thus
concealed. The greater portion of the people as-
sembled were pressing forward with their goods to
boats drawn up on the sandy beach, and designed
to carry the articles on board the vessels for
Gibraltar : there were some strange-looking, deep,
circular bales of wicker, that appeared to me to
contain woollen goods. My astonishment was
great, therefore, on inspecting them nearer, to find
they carried live fowls thus closely packed. The
noise, cries, and bestiality of the people were only
exceeded by the smell and disagreeable appearance
of all the articles of subsistence set out for sale.
The shops are like watchmen's boxes, with one
shutter falling down, and behind this half-door
sits the uninviting male creature who offers his
goods.

Such was the foreground of my first picture.ARAB ENCAMPMENT.

•219

But I was shortly carried, accompanied by our
party, who got donkeys from the governor, to the
greater assemblage or mart behind the town. Here
the dromedaries and camels stood in groups; some
of the Moors beating the wonderful animals down
on their knees to receive their loads; while others,
who had their enormous burdens already placed on
their backs, were falling in to move in columns to
their destinations. The Arab tents were in the
rear of these beasts; they chiefly consist of old
ragged convass, patched with cloth, and are fixed
to short poles, reeds, or canes : they are set up any
where in the market, without order or arrange-
ment; though, up the country, they pitch them
with some sort of regularity, and in lines of en-
campment. A great portion of these Moorish
Arabs were feeding on the prickly pear, a plant
that grows on the hedges; the inside of the fruit
is grateful to the taste in a hot climate.

The circumference of the market - ground is
marked out by caves dug in the earth, with but
small apertures at the top, into which, however,
men can get. These places are used as depots for220

AFRICAN GARDEN.

the corn and grain, either unsold, or which it is
prudent to keep in store.

Sundays and Thursdays are the market-days at
Tangier, when the greatest number of natives and
Arabs of the interior are seen.

Adjoining the market are the gardens of the
consuls : that of the Dutch consul was exceedingly
fine. There were, in addition to all other curious
trees of the clime, the pepper-tree, and the datum
of enormous size ; besides hedges of geraniums,
heliotrope, verbinum, myrtles, and, in short, every
delicious and fragrant flower that exists. From
visiting all these, wonders to an English eye, we
returned to a very sumptuous dinner at our con-
sul's, served very much a VAnglaise, with the
exception only that we had Arabs to wait upon
us; and that a Moorish captain of cavalry stood
sentinel at the door, and shewed us our way in to
dinner.

I ought to particularise here the very high cha-
racter which I heard Mr. Hay Drummond has gained
by his wise and discreet conduct with these bar-
barous nations, and their ignorant and despoticA MOORISH VILLAGE.

221

bashaw at Tunis. Previously to this gentleman's
appointment, the natives were not only insolent to
the European missions, but often put individuals
belonging to them in fear of their lives. Some
very forcible and determined applications were,
however, made by Mr. Hay to the bashaw in such
cases; and not only were the bastinado and impri-
sonment applied to the offenders in consequence,
but the bashaw sometimes ordered even a village
to be burnt, if any of its inhabitants had given
offence to the British authority. These prompt
and peremptory proceedings had established perfect
order, and inculcated respect among the natives
towards all our countrymen.

I was accompanied by Mr. Hay's son into the
country, and visited a Moorish village. It was
deplorable barbarism in every sense of the word.
Swarms of naked children, savage and grovel-
ling in the dust, with dogs, chickens, pigs, and
goats ; all seeming to have but one bed, the beaten
mud, for their resting-place, and one covering,
the sky, for their protection. The hovels were
made half of stone, half of weeds and sticks,222

A MOORISH CONCERT.

and a sort of broad way ran down the middle of
them, but no female figure was visible. The Moor-
ish woman is instantly put to death if she has
intercourse with a Christian. Most of the men and
boys in the village go with their heads bare; the
Arabs have one long lock of hair, which is allowed
to grow from the top or side of their heads, and has
a singular effect. After inspecting the villages, I
was much pleased by the examination of an old
Moorish arch and bridge, which were stated to
have existed from the time of the Carthaginians.

We had a long ride in the interior of the country,
and I noticed every thing growing almost without
culture. The hedges were of aloes and prickly pear,
the fields well tilled, the rivers meandering and
clear; but the roads and ways, except for beasts,
quite impracticable. On our return, we had an
excellent dinner; and our entertainment in the
evening was a Moorish concert, in which four Moors
outvied each other in screeching and loud shout-
ing. The instruments were a three-stringed fiddle,
played as a violoncello, a tambourine, a guitar, and
a two-stringed bass, incapable of either description
or name.WILD ARABS.

223

Lady L., during our stay, was introduced to the
pacha's three wives. They were all very plain; and
one of them, the most ill-looking of the three, is a
black, but she is of royal extraction. The in-
terpretess on the occasion was a very pretty
and smartly-dressed Jewess, a race universally per-
secuted in this country, although the pachas seem
much in their power in all their financial affairs.

As we passed in the streets with this radiant-
eyed and picturesque girl, the curses, loud and deep,
that were heaped upon her, inoffensive and harmless
as she seemed, by the barbarians, excited our sur-
prise ; and in passing a mosque, and, afterwards,
in the palace, these brawny-shouldered Moors were
ready to knock her down because she was not bare-
footed.

We saw, previously to our departure, an assem-
blage of wild Arabs, encamped on the sea-shore,
having come in a mass to take shipping at Tangiers,
on their way to Mecca. It would be hard to paint
the misery and filth of these objects: there were,
however, some venerable chiefs of the party. Their
picturesque heads would have formed fine subjects
for the pencil of a Lawrence or a Wilkie — both,224

VOYAGE TO GIBRALTAR.

alas! now no more. We shall never see their
like again; for, let who will succeed them, who
can ever surpass them !

The chiefs, squatted outside their miserable,
low, rag-tents, looking sedate and solemn, and
turning their eyes contemptuously towards us, ap-
peared to inquire — " Whose dogs are you ?" We
left them, on our departure, on the same ground
where last we parted, on the same spot where
first we met, not with the feelings that inspired
the bard, but with our astonishment at the appa-
rently patient attitude in which they seemed wait-
ing until Providence, or some Greek dog, should
bring a ship into the bay to further them on their
journey eastward.

We left, in the morning, our kind host and
excellent quarters, and sailed through the straits
of Gibraltar, where we landed at sunset. It
is difficult to describe this extraordinary sea
and passage. The rival mountains of Africa
and Europe, vying with each other in splendour
and magnificent altitudes — Apes' Hill, in Africa,
touching the clouds; and the insulated rock of
Gibraltar standing boldly out in the sea; toge-SPLENDID SCENERY.

225

ther, with the narrow passage of the entrance,
giving the idea that the waters of the Atlantic had
forced their way through a cleft in the mountains.
The scene is generally enlivened by a brilliant sun,
with tints and colours of the Mediterranean sky of
singularly gorgeous hues; and the whole forms a
panorama of natural and magnificent feature, which,
unless seen, can scarcely be conceived. On a calm
day, especially, the rays of the sun, reflected from
the dark blue sea; the stupendous height of the
rock, 1600 feet above its level; the white, clean
terraces, and gardens round the houses; with the
long, straight lines of the curtains of the fortifica-
tions, and the prominent bastions, produce, in their
combination, a scenic effect unknown but in this
singular place.

On the evening of the 22nd we found, on arriv-
ing at the anchorage off the New Mole, that the
governor, Sir Alexander Woodford, had sent his
carriages to wait our disembarking; and when we
got on shore, His Excellency, as well as his sons,
were at the landing-place to receive us. We shortly
after joined our family, all well; they being quar-

VOL. II.	Q226

A DUTCH FRIGATE.

tered in commodious apartments at the Club House
Hotel, and haying received every possible attention
and civility from the governor and his wife previously
to our arrival. Indeed, I might enlarge here on
the governor's kind conduct, not in mere justice to
Sir Alexander Woodford and his charming wife, but
for the information of all travellers, that there never
was an individual who, added to his known ability
and constant zeal in his arduous military duties,
evinced such marked and gratifying attention, not
to his countrymen alone, but to all royal or great
personages who visit Gibraltar—an attention, hos-
pitality, and generous reception, that must largely
encroach on a very inadequate and inefficient salary
for so great and conspicuous a situation.

In the bay was a Dutch frigate, having on board
Prince Henry of Orange, who had accompanied the
Grand Duke, the Cesarowitch, to England, and was
now on a cruize, by way of learning and com-
mencing his profession — the navy. In addition,
there was the Wasp sloop of war, commanded by a
son of Lord Yarborough's, and the Tribune, Eng-
lish corvette, Captain Hammelyn Williams, sent,GRAND REVIEW.

227

apparently, to this coast for exploits against the
Spaniards, or rather to watch that no arms or sup-
plies were sent in to the Carlists from the southern
shores.

The day after disembarking, we were occupied,
as is usual, in taking up new positions and paying
the necessary visits. Amongst these I made a point
of going on board the Dutch frigate; for whatever
incivilities I experienced formerly myself in Holland,
I was determined it should not prevent my paying
due respect to the members of the House of Orange
when I met them elsewhere. The prince was very
gracious ; he had resolved to put off sailing for one
day beyond that which he had originally fixed, in
order to be present at a great review of the garrison
and a large military dinner, which the governor
had prepared for the following day. With a desire
to honour a royal prince, on the one side, and
anxiety to show respect to a general officer on the
other, Sir Alexander determined to pay due honours
to both the prince and myself.

The garrison was composed of the 33d, 45th,
81st, 82nd regiments, and artillery. That distin-

Q 2228

MILITARY HONOURS.

guished officer, Sir C. Smith, commanded the en-
gineers, and was en second in the place; and
Colonel Browne had just come from England to
command the artillery. The troops were assembled
on the neutral ground, behind the rock, and be-
tween it and the Spanish lines ; and, without de-
tailing their movements, it will suffice to say they
gave us a fair field day and tolerable practice in
firing. The 33d regiment appeared to me in best
condition; but the appearance of the whole of
the troops, and the good order which seemed to
reign throughout all the military arrangements,
reflected the highest credit on the governor.

The ladies of our party were escorted in open
carriages by Lady Woodford; and the governor
mounted the reviewing officers, although it was not
clear which would, or did, take the precedence.
Prince Henry declined the general salute, which I
then felt myself called on to acknowledge; and, in
marching past, the colours were dropped to a
royal house, to which, of course, I had nothing to
say. These little anecdotes only show the anxiety
that was apparent on the part of the excellent
governor to do the utmost honour to all.THE FORTIFICATIONS.

229

A very numerously attended and most excellent
military dinner, with a soiree in the evening, ter-
minated this interesting day. The gigantic rock;
the natural strength of the fortifications, aided by
every thing that art could achieve ; the burning
sun, though near the end of October; the green
trees and soil, the blue waters, and the brilliant
uniforms displayed on the sandy beach below the
rock, presented a very different spectacle from
Hounslow Heath or Wormwood Scrubs.

We were urged, next day, to visit the fortifica-
tions, the signal-house at the top of the rock, the
galleries, and St. Michael's Cave. The same
obliging attention which marked our first reception
continued. His Excellency's horses and boricos
were in attendance; and the commanding officer
of artillery, and the governor himself, were present
to escort Lady L. through this very interesting ex-
hibition. We started, however, too late in the day,
and darkness came suddenly upon us in the galleries
(for there is little or no twilight in these climates),
before we had got half up the rock. Our expe-
dition was, therefore, deferred till the following230

SEA DEFENCES.

day, when more regular arrangements were made,
and an earlier hour was fixed on.

The delight of the young people, and the wonder
of the ladies, surpassed even my own astonishment
at these marvellous spectacles. They have the
effect of enchantment rather than of the works of
man, however aided by the singular formation and
creations of nature.

A separate day was subsequently given exclu-
sively to St. Michael's Cave, which was lighted up
expressly, and a band stationed within it, for the
occasion of our visit. All these honours and atten-
tions were to ourselves alone, Prince Henry having
left Gibraltar.

From merely cursory observations, and but a
very few days' stay at this unique and wonder-
ful place, it would be perfectly idle to write in
any length the passing thoughts that occurred
to my mind. So many have seen and written,
so much is known, of Gibraltar, that in my short
journal I shall only touch upon the points that
struck me most.

I should consider the sea-defences of the placeSERIOUS CONSIDERATIONS.	231

weaker than those on the land-side. Here I should
say, as far as human judgment can pass an opinion,
it is quite impregnable; not so along its very ex-
tended ocean-line of batteries, curtains, parapets,
&c. Farther, it seems to me, that as the town
has from sixteen to eighteen thousand inhabitants,
all of whom, except about three thousand, are
foreigners, in case of a serious attack, you could
not turn out towards the sea, or outside the lines,
this population, foreign as I have described it. If
a French or Russian fleet were ever to come within
the bay, and batter the town to pieces, the dis-
affection of these inhabitants might be extremely
embarrassing. The stores, depots, and places
armes, also appear widely separated and dis-
persed — all would require a great and commensu-
rate separation of the defensive force, which might
thus, in detail, become a prey to internal disaffec-
tion. Even beyond this, there is no citadel or place
for troops to retire to in case of any reverse. These
are very serious considerations; and the British
government would do well to look to them in times
of peace and quiet; it will be too late when danger232

ST. GEORGE'S HALL.

is at hand; and, in the present political relations of
the world, no one can assume to pronounce what
European combinations or alliances may take place.

" Drinkwater's Siege of Gibraltar" contains the
best details and descriptions of this fortress. There
are some minor works on the subject; and a memoir
of the curiosities and most interesting features of
the place is now in the press, which would make
any partial account needless. It is given to the
world by a very meritorious and excellent officer,
Major Hort. The most prominent feature on the
excavated caverns and works, no doubt, is St.
George's Hall, a large chamber in the cliff, with
guns of every calibre, issuing from various points
of its lateral sides ; all the galleries, in like manner,
are studded with howitzers and artillery of every
description, and seeing one of these galleries is
seeing the whole. I do not think there is much to
repay you for the laborious ascent to the very top
of the rock beyond the view which, on a clear day,
is surprisingly grand and enchanting. The rock
itself is stony, craggy, and exhibits broken masses
of huge flints on every side.DELICIOUS GARDENS.

233

The town is walled around, and this defence is
covered with dwarf palms, growing amongst the
crevices, and all sorts of curious wild plants.
Lower down the declivity you get to the aloe and
the cactus; these latter are enormous, and the tall
stalk gives a picturesque appearance. The gardens,
which are still lower again, are laid out chiefly in
terraces, and look lovely. Hedges of twenty or
thirty yards long, entirely of heliotrope and myrtle;
jasmine and rose hedges, of similiar dimensions,
are universally to be found in these beautiful flower
gardens, and orange and lemon trees are really
a drug here. All grow most luxuriantly in full
flower and fruit; and the perfume that is exhaled
from the mixture with the jasmine, and the tuberose,
and verbina, impregnates the air, and makes you
breathe an elysium.

There is little of note in the town; it is like
an English garrison: except for the mixture of
Jews, Moors, Spaniards, &c., in the streets, the
whole feature is English — horses, gigs, carriages,
as in London. The theatre is dark and gloomy,
and always a bad company.234

GIBRALTAR AND CINTRA.

The governor gave us another very numerously
attended and splendid dinner on the 28th of Oc-
tober, after a visit to St. Michael's Cave, which
was made in grand procession. The various tra-
ditions and absurdities about this cave are too nu-
merous to record : one tells you that O'Hara went
to the bottom of it, more than any other person
ever accomplished before, and there left his hat,
sword, and stick. Another assures you there is a
passage to Africa by thence. Let it however suffice
for me to add that, judging from the two shafts I
saw, and the depth to which they appear to descend,
probably no one has ever dared to go very far
under ground in this unfathomable abyss.

It strikes me that the nearest assimilation to the
line of the Gibraltar Rock from the bay is the
parallel feature of the Cintra mountains. There is
the same singular perpendicular altitude; the same
rugged escarpment of rock; the same terraces at
the bottom, with the trees of southern climes,
affording beautiful recesses and emplacements for
houses or quintas (as called in Portugal) of all de-
nominations and dimensions. But of the two posi-ALGESIRAS.

235

tions to dwell in, Cintra must have far the pre-
ference. In Gibraltar you are in a great vessel, in
a garrison; and while at that lovely spot, Cintra,
you may roam unobserved and unobtruded on, in
all directions; in the former you are always, as it
were, " en evidencein the latter, in sweet seclu-
sion and profound retreat.

I should now mention that we had a very agree-
able sail and excursion to Algesiras, a Spanish
town, directly opposite to Gibraltar. The governor
had announced his intention to celebrate, by re-
joicings, &c., the general peace and tranquillization
of the country, produced by the surrender of Don
Carlos, and of which we had witnessed the celebra-
tion at Seville; and Sir Alexander Woodford had
three days to choose out of, to honour the same by
his presence. He went in his barge, our party in
the yacht. We proceeded, on reaching the town,
to the great market-place, and there the most ridi-
culous procession I ever saw was exhibited. A
large picture, the portraits of Isabel and Christina,
was supported on a platform, held by two girls,
dressed like cherubim, with wings and chaplets of236

A NEW EXPEDITION.

olives. This buffoonery was carried about by Car-
lists, prisoners to the Christino forces, sixteen or
eighteen of whom were dressed up like merrv-
andrews, with arms and legs bare. Flags innume-
rable, with mottoes, military music, cavalry, and
infantry, formed a procession, at the head of which
they placed our English governor, making him,
however loth, parade the streets with them.
After this they had a grand repast. An attempt
at vivas and speeches was got up; but, as the
greater part of the town are Carlists, there was
no feeling of exultation exhibited. The English
governor took leave at dark; as our yachts were
calmed, he took our party into his barge; and,
after a very long row of four miles, we arrived at
Gibraltar at eight at night.

We had now determined to visit Malaga and
Granada, but were anxious to see, previously, Ceuta
and Tetuan. Having been so singularly struck
with Tangier, it occurred to me that a larger town
belonging to the Moors would be still more inte-
resting and worthy of remark. With the aid, there-
fore, of our yacht friends, we decided to embarkSMUGGLING.

237

(with them) on the 30th, for the aforesaid desti-
nation, leaving our children and baggage under the
affectionate care of Lady Woodford till our return.
We had made arrangements for sailing, when the
Xarifa, Lord Wilton, from Cadiz, came into the
bay ; and he again most kindly pressed us, as be-
fore, to put off our going for a day at least, in order
to dine with him.

True, however, to our compass, and adhering
firmly to our decisions, we got under weigh on the
80th, at mid-day, for Ceuta. The African hills ap-
peared now rivalling the splendid ridge near Ronda.
The rock appears to great advantage, standing out
like an island, bold and bare, in the midst of the
sea; and Europa point, bold, bluff, and low, covered
with cannon, has a remarkable appearance. This
is the place where the contrabandistas lie for
shelter, under the English flag. There is an im-
mense deal of smuggling carried on here, under the
very nose of the Spanish authorities, English goods
being strictly prohibited for the sake of encou-
raging the native productions, principally to benefit
Catalonia and Barcelona; but, notwithstanding all238

SPANISH SMUGGLERS.

the efforts of the Douairiiers, it is curious to observe
there is scarce a Spanish peasant who has not a
printed cotton dress, from Glasgow or Manchester;
scarce a mountaineer who will not have his shirt of
English linen. Handkerchiefs, shawls, muslins—
in short, every article of wear of British manu-
facturing—is found in Spain,

These are forced in by scores of large and small
smuggling boats, who watch their time, when the
Spanish guarda costa are not on the alert; steal
from under the rock, run along the shore, and land
their goods by previously planned stratagems. If
chased, they retire under cover of Europa point;
and our guns do not hesitate to fire on any Spanish
boat chasing within range of the fortress; our po-
licy being to give every encouragement and pro-
tection to the smugglers. There are vast stores of
goods in Gibraltar, all of which are for Spanish
consumption. Some of the smuggling boats are as
large as one hundred and fifty tons, and carry thirty-
two pounders; the Spanish vessels are equally
heavily armed; the smugglers are sometimes taken;
but the profit of one successful adventure is soA SPANISH GOVERNOR.

239

great that they always incur new risks. A large
smuggler, called the Terrible, was lately taken,
which was built at Gibraltar for the trade.

On the morning of the 3 Lst I sent the letters with
which I was furnished from Sir Alexander Woodford
to the Spanish governor of Ceuta. He instantly dis-
patched his ten-oared barge, and the captain of the
port, to bring the party ashore; and, to my sur-
prise, received me with all the honours and dis-
tinctions possible, notwithstanding he must have
been aware that I was not a great partizan of the
Christinos. Lady L. being very unwell, was unable
to land; so, accompanied by Captain Lyon, Major
Hort, &c., we went to pay our respects to the gover-
nor, and to excuse ourselves for not making any
long sejour.

His excellency, on our landing from his barge,
met us with all the officers of the garrison, a bat-
talion drawn up, and a squadron of lancers. I felt
regret that, not having my uniform, I could not
appear as became a British officer. I put on the
riband of the Bath, however, as all foreign officers
and troops think nothing of a military man with-240

TOWN OF CEUTA.

out orders; and, excusing my appearance to the
governor, returned him my warmest thanks for his
civilities and honours, and begged of him to allow
me to see his fortifications and outposts, which are
the only things worth landing for at Ceuta.

It is a poor town, of the same description as
Algesiras; and is most strongly fortified, particu-
larly on the land side; but it has little or no terri-
tory, the Moorish outposts coming close to the
town, which stands on a sort of peninsula, with
large bays for anchorage-ground on each side of it.
There are two cuts through the land; one by a
sort of canal, and the other by a ditch, forming
part of the fortifications of the town, which allows
of small-boat navigation from one of the bays to
the other. The heights above the town are as steep
as the whole line of the African territory, or more
so. The governor had his own steed (a clever
barb) saddled for me, with horses for my com-
panions ; and, mounting himself on his colonel's
charger, we filed through the streets of the town,
and then through the works towards the land-side.

Ceuta is unquestionably very strong; and pro-STRENGTH OF CEUTA.

241

jects for its capture, such as have been entertained
in England, should be well considered, for it is
far easier said than done. Of course there was
much fanfaronnade amongst the officers who sur-
rounded me as to its strength and powers. One
said it was quite as strong as Gibraltar; another
that they had 1000 guns mounted. Gibraltar has
not above 700; and my own eyes comprised the
whole of what I saw as within 300 or 400. How-
ever, to do the commanding general but common
justice, he seemed to have his garrison in the
best order that small means, and troops with ex-
tremely irregular pay, would allow of. This place
is exempt from civil control; all power being ex-
ercised by the military law of the despot for the
time being. All kind of supplies to the place
pay a heavy tax to the military chest, and there-
fore the poverty that seemed to exist was not sur-
prising. The governor returned with us on board
our squadron, to pay his respects to Lady L., and
take leave of me; and on November 1st, 1839, we
sailed for Tetuan.

Here it may not be irrelevant to enter upon

VOL. II.	R242

THE FRENCH IN AFRICA.

some notice and discussion of the bloody, uncer-
tain, and prolonged war the French have established
in Africa—an undertaking, be it remembered, that
was commenced only under a declaration from the
then government of France, through Prince Polig-
nac to Lord Aberdeen, that a mere indemnity and re-
dress for grievances were alone to be demanded; the
conquest of Africa, at that period, being never con-
templated : for, if otherwise, it was concealed under
a subterfuge, unworthy of a great nation. This
case, however, stands on very delicate grounds. The
success at Algiers seems to have established and
founded a right of possession. If this is surren-
dered or quietly yielded to, and France obtains
possession by degrees of the shores of the Mediter-
ranean, and colonizes Africa, what will be the po-
sition of Great Britain and her fleets in those seas,
as contrasted with and deteriorating from her situa-
tion at present ?

Can it be supposed that France aims at the
subjugation of Africa — a task, it is to be hoped,
not only too Herculean, but also too costly both in
men and money for her to achieve; keeping on, asABDEL KADER.

243

at present, a bloody strife for successive years. Yet
will she be satisfied with what she can wrest from
the gallant Emir, Abdel Kader, who sustains with
the noblest valour and independence his fatal strug-
gle against the powerful legions of the French?
Will France, in the event of success, not also look to
subduing the states of Barbary, Tunis, Morocco,
Ethican, and Tripoli, which are now independent
of her sway ? It is impossible not to admire that
undaunted leader, Abdel Kader, who has hitherto
contended, and contended successfully, against the
repeated French commanders that have been sent
to annihilate him. Nor can we look to the conti-
nuation of the war without feeling an anxious hope
that this brave people may not be robbed of their
independence. On the graver question, as to
what would arise, or must arise if the French
projects in Africa took a belligerent aspect to-
wards England, this is not the time, nor is it in my
province, to pronounce. But I must say that the
question, sooner or later, may become one of the
most difficult which the two countries will perhaps
ever have to treat upon.

R 2CHAPTER XXVI.

Landing at Tetuan, in stormy weather—Embouchure of the
Tetuan river—A Moorish Captain—Description of Tetuan—
The British Consul and his Family — Moorish Houses — A
Visit to the Pacha of Tetuan — Return to Gibraltar—Malaga
—Spanish houses—Curious manufactures—Our cavalcade at
starting from Malaga for an expedition to Granada—Difficulties
at the commencement of the march—Ascent of the Sierra—
A mountain village—A Spanish inn—111 manners—Travelling
accommodations—Important services.BAY OF TETUAN.

247

CHAPTER XXYI.

On entering the bay of Tetuan, on the morning
of the 2d November, the weather became extremely
lowering, and there was every appearance of storm
and rain. We had anchored, the preceding evening,
at a considerable distance from the shore, as it
was not deemed prudent to approach land at night;
especially since the bay is very open, and, with an
easterly wind blowing strong, the danger of a lee-
shore is evident. Our boats landed the messenger
whom we expedited to the governor and consul,
notwithstanding the unfavourable state of the
weather, to announce our arrival and procure
horses and donkeys, in readiness for us to go
ashore the following morning. Some of our party
got into the boats with fowling-pieces, with a view248

STORMY WEATHER.

of shooting ducks and partridges, there appearing
to be a considerable quantity of game.

The embouchure of the Tetuan River is about
seven or eight English miles from the town: the
country lying between is entirely flat, until you
ascend the ridges of hills on which the city of Te-
tuan is situate, and which runs along them in one
straight line, with a large palace of the pacha, or
caid, in the centre. The place is surrounded by a
very high Moorish wall, in which there are embra-
sures and some few guns mounted. The low ground
I have above mentioned is entirely a morass and
swamp, near the river; and, as you approach the
town, the land is ploughed, or rather turned up, in
cultivation. There are no roads, but only bad,
crooked, beaten tracks: as is the case through-
out Africa.

When our boats, &c. returned to the yachts, we
were preparing to land ; but the weather had be
come so awful, from torrents of rain and its blow-
ing almost a hurricane, that, however annoying it
was to our anxieties, we thought it more prudent
to remain on board our ships, and defer fartherA MOORISH CAPTAIN.

249

progress until another day. We had a very stormy
morning on the 3d, and much deliberation ensued
if it were wise to land. About noon the rain fell
in heavy showers, and, whether to brave the ele-
ments, or to get up our anchors and return to
Gibraltar, was the question. It was believed the
yachts could not remain at anchor: there was a
choice of difficulties; but decision, even in a wrong
sense, is preferable to uncertainty and wavering.

We determined to land, and with great difficulty
about two o'clock made the shore. There is a tower
at the landing-place, commanded by a Moorish Cap-
tain Hash, and to which you ascend by a ladder:
the individual is as great a character as his man-
sion is a wonder. This person holds the key of en-
trance to the Tetuan territory, and his importance
is very laughable. Under his close inspection, and
through a formidable surf, we were carried out of
our boats by bare-legged Moors. Horses, donkeys,
and mules were then, by direction of Mr. Butler,
the consul, in attendance; and the equestrians,
anestrians, and mulestrians, were shortly marshal-
led, under the orders of Captain Hash and the con-250

TETUAN.

sul, into a cavalcade; the rain all this while coming
down in torrents, and the winds blowing a gale.
A handsome mule had been sent for Lady L.;
and haying her own English saddle, she was
placed in the midst of our column, the baggage on
horses, and we waded in this order through the deep
swamps and mud for five long miles. Every part of
our clothing was drenched; and in a state of per-
fect cold, wet, and misery, we arrived at the city,
and about six o'clock p. m. reached the consul's
house.

Tetuan is more filthy, uncivilized, barbarous, and
beastly than Tangier; the streets are narrower, the
Jews' houses more abundant, the starving children
more numerous; and the squalid groups resemble
apes or oran-outangs rather than human creatures.
The town differs little from any other Moorish
town, all being as I have described them. It is,
however, prettily and imposingly situated on the
side of a steep hill, facing the eastward. Our quar-
ter, as is always the case in Moorish countries, was
in the Jewish district, the most wretched of all.
Its misery was increased by the continual rain.THE CONSUL'S FAMILY.

251

The Jewesses are here celebrated for their beauty,
and on gala days they display their under-costume
of great richness, and are certainly fine-looking crea-
tures. Our discomforts became greater by the set-
ting-in of the dreadful Levanter, and the consequent
inability to move out of our wretched tenements,
and nothing but barbarism around us.

Amongst such a set, one English family alone
presents itself to the traveller; and how painfully
is this situated! The mother, an amiable person,
after sixteen years' residence, has nearly forgotten
her own language; her husband also speaking it
imperfectly: all the young people, interesting
in their appearance, only able to express themselves
in Spanish or in Arabic. No masters, no tuition,
no religion, no society. Such is the picture of the
unfortunate consul's family in the midst of these
barbarous people. I should, nevertheless, be unjust
if I did not advert to their general amiability and
gentleness, and to the lady-like appearance and
conduct of the female part of the family. Mr. But-
ler lived as much like an Englishman as was prac-
ticable in this savage place. His house was one of252

MOORISH HOUSES.

the best in the town; the rent eight dollars per
month—about £S. His hospitality and style of
living were handsome; and how it was practicable,
with nine children, to accomplish all he^did, ap-
peared inconceivable.	/

The Moorish houses are all open in the centre,
or rather they have an inside square, above and
below, with a balcony and an arcade ; in the middle
of the square are trees, exotics, or curious plants.
The doors of the rooms on each story open into the
balcony; there are few or no windows; and in
chill or rainy weather, and with a bad supply of
fuel, the cold, wet, and discomfort that rush in
from these portal apertures are horrible : but the
mansions seem only built for immoderate heat.

Lady L. was so intensely fatigued by the
march and all she had gone through, that we
pitched her bed, and she lay still for some hours,
which happily prevented all cold or bad effects
from our disagreeable march. But had our de-
cision been otherwise, and had we not landed, as
the yachts were obliged to put to sea from the tem-
pest, our hardships and fate might have been muchVISIT TO THE PACHA.

253

worse. The vessels encountered, off Ceuta point,
and within the straits, as heavy a gale as they
ever experienced, which they gallantly rode out,
beating |o windward and keeping an offing. Had
the party been on board, we should without doubt
have been obliged to run for Gibraltar; and, dis-
comfited and disappointed, it was more than pro-
bable we should never have crossed the straits
again.

The pacha, on my arrival, sent an offieer with
the usual present to persons of rank, consisting of
two sheep, twenty-four fowls, and two hundred
eggs; and I announced the intention of paying my
respects to him on the following day. We set out
after breakfasting at the consul's ; the ladies were
mounted on mules ; the pacha sending one for me
covered with scarlet housings and a fine bridle, or-
namented with shells. The mule was one of the
largest and tallest I ever saw; and with a saddle
singularly high behind and before, it required get-
ting on a ladder to mount. The rest of our party,
in column, and with their best dresses, orders, &c.,
paraded up the high hill to the castle, where we254

A MOORISH PACHA.

were met by the second in command, and the black
Moorish secretary, with a large guard of Moorish
soldiers, cavalry and infantry, or rather irregular
foot. Our consul, Mr. Butler, had his interpreter
with him.

This pacha is the richest in Barbary, but he is
also the most sordid. He has only one wife, and
two sons, between twenty and twenty-five, very
handsome men. To these we were first introduced.
Both occupy situations in his establishment; and
the younger had lately taken to himself a wife of
twelve or thirteen years of age.

In the great palace there is neither furniture nor
establishment. It would probably cost too much
to the avaricious Caid, who hoards his wealth in
large chests of doubloons, burying them under
ground. The place we were received in was the
dwelling-house of another person, furnished by the
pacha in a more private style. When we entered,
he was sitting with his legs under him upon a car-
pet opposite the door, wrapped up in his great white
casique; and he exhibited a face like that of a
swelled hog. Though a more powerful chief, heHIS ENTERTAINMENT.

255

had neither the information nor the intellectual
appearance of the pacha of Tangier.

After the usual compliments, tea was served:
three very low round tables were brought in; on
one of them small tea-cups were placed round a
tray: on the second were the kettles, or rather
vases, and vessels for making the tea: on the third,
having the largest circumference of any, was a very
rich old Moorish tray of gold, on which stood four
immense dishes, consisting of dates and milk,
sugared cakes of peculiar niceness, sweetmeats, and
grapes. The Moors and slaves in abundance served
round the tea. His excellency insisted on each
taking three cups ; no great difficulty, as it might
be compared to three table-spoonfuls.

After the repast, the ladies went to see his wife
and son's wife, who were far superior to the harem
at Tangier; the son's wife had very beautiful eyes.
The stables and gardens were afterwards shown to
us. I saw in the former only one horse of real
value; his excellency told me the Sultan had given
it to him, and that all the others were the Sultan's;
as much as to say that none were to be asked for256

THE PACHA'S AVARICE.

purchase. I was unwilling, on taking leave, to re-
ceive the presents without suitable return; and
consulted with the Jew interpreter, Levi, the richest
merchant in the place, to know how I should make
a compliment to the pacha, as also to the soldiers
and attendants : and I mention this, to prove the de-
spotic avarice of these chiefs, that Levi advised me,
if I meant to do the thing handsomely, to send
through the black secretary two pieces of gold,
about c£lO, and he would report to the chief the
amount of my present. Of course I followed this
advice; and the next day Levi told me the pacha
had taken about £8 of it for himself, and left two
for his people. Such is the Moorish pacha, or caid.

Towards mid-day we were relieved from our
visit, and happy to pass the evening in repose at
home. The Misses Butler brought Jewish women
full dressed to show us, and in every possible man-
ner endeavoured to entertain us. The weather
was still stormy ; but, as our yachts had returned
to their anchorage, we deemed it best to re-embark.

On the morning of the 5th of November it was
fair, and the heavens favoured us in our route aTRAVELLING IN SPAIN.

257

ckeval to Captain Hash's tower, from whence our
boats took us on hoard; and, with the aid of a
brisk breeze, we anchored at the Old Mole, Gibral-
tar, in the evening, delighted to return to a civilised
land; for to imagine human creatures and a strange
nation, within only a few hours' sail, and so wide
as the poles asunder in every thing approaching to
civilization, as Barbary is from Spain, is quite im-
possible, without visiting the locale.

We were greeted with the same hospitality by
the governor that we had so amply experienced
before, and renewed our dinners with him, and our
visits to friends in Gibraltar. The Xarifa yacht
had arrived from England, as I have before men-
tioned, with Lord and Lady Wilton; and in our
absence from Gibraltar they visited the lions, as
we had done before them. On our return they
pressed us to make the journey from Malaga to
Grenada together. We had been told that travel-
ling in small parties in Spain was always more pru-
dent, as regarded accommodation and getting on;
wishing, therefore, to avoid any union of move-
ments as much as possible, we proposed to our
VOL. II.	s258

PARTING COURTESIES.

friends that we should wait a day or two after
them at Gibraltar, in order to give them the start
upon the road into Spain. With this under-
standing they sailed on the 4th; and we finally
made our arrangements to follow them to Malaga
on the 6th.

Our last evening and dinner at the governor's
were most agreeable; he collected all our particular
friends and allies; his cuisine is really perfect, as
his hospitality, as I have before said, is universal.
On departing, he followed us to our carriage, and
only regretted that an inspection of the 82nd
regiment prevented him from seeing us on board
our yacht in the morning.

However, to our surprise, at eight o'clock the
following day Lady Woodford and her sons were at
the Ragged Staff, to bid a last adieu; and we
parted with the sincerest regret from these most
warm and affectionate friends, whom we had only
a few weeks ago greeted as strangers.

The morning was beautiful, and the bay of Al-
geziras was covered with boats, and the sky so
serene and clear that it seemed to reflect all theDELIGHTFUL VOYAGE.

259

objects below it. Our little squadron, the Merlin
and the Antelope, got under weigh with all their
sails crowded and their colours flying, wafting signs
and adieus to those who were behind us, while
their sharp prows cut through the blue waters with
the utmost energy, to gain rapidly the new shores
and havens to which our destiny directed them.

The most lovely sail of the lovely sailings in the
Mediterranean blessed our passage to Malaga. It
was a morn and evening which hardly any July in
England could ever boast; the heat during day
time made us fly from its rays, and take shelter in
the cabin from its power; but the noon and the
night afforded indescribable enjoyment in watching
the bright, glimmering stars, while our vessel
glided imperceptibly along through a beautiful,
glassy surface, which seemed to disclaim ever heav-
ing in anger.

We were not able to anchor within the pier at
Malaga that evening. The next day, the consul,
Mr. Penrose Mark, came on board, and acquainted
us that the Wiltons were still at their anchorage,
and that it was impossible to make the journey

S 2260

MALAGA.

forward into Spain except we combined arrange-
ments and joined parties. Lord Wilton had had
an escort ordered him, through the means of Gene-
ral Alava's interest at Madrid. We, on the other
hand, had previously engaged the only two Car-
riages in the town in which ladies could go. The
escort could not proceed without the carriages,
and the carriages required the eseort. Whatever
inconveniences or want of accommodation might be
encountered on the road, there was no mode of
advance but by a single column; this was therefore
shortly arranged by the consul, who kindly offered
to accompany the party, and manage all matters
during our route.

We were anxiously pressed to start that day,
which to us was next to impossible; but on the
9th we commenced our march, and had hardly a
moment to see Malaga.

A fine new pier and lighthouse are building ; the
bay spreads in a semicircular basin; the city is
built round its base ; a grand cathedral stands pro-
minent in the centre of the town, and there is a
handsome public walk, or Alameda. The houses ofENGLISH SOCIETY.

261

the English merchants are especially large, and on
a superior scale. They seem to have a great taste
for large old carved doors: as an instance; an
English commercial gentleman had bought a fine
house, which was pointed out to me, and for which
he had given £7000 or £8000, while the street
doors alone had cost £800; they were of maho-
gany, and richly carved. Another mansion near it,
equally conspicuous, had the portals made of old
mahogany, triangular nails apparently disposed in
circles, and other figures upon the panels. The
inside squares of these mansions had almost univer-
sally the Moorish court, and the evergreens and
gardens. The interiors are fitted up with matting
and handsome furniture.

There is a pretty large English society in this
town, and it is said to be an agreeable residence.
The consul occupies an excellent house in the
Alameda. The most remarkable shop is a manufac-
tory for the famous Malaga wooden figures, repre-
senting the costumes of the nation: the most
renowned of these are the twenty-one personages
of the bull-fight. This magazine is worth inspect-262

OUR CAVALCADE.

ing. The figures are about three dollars, or four-
teen shillings each, and are only to be had at
Malaga.

Lord Cantalupe and a party of young English-
men were in possession of the best inn in the place.
They, however, kindly and gallantly yielded us
their apartments while we stayed; and we all
dined, a large party, on board the Xarifa, before
we commenced our expedition up the country.

I waited upon the Governor Alvarez, captain-
general of the province. He was unfortunately
ill, but showed every civility by sending his aid-
de-camp to me, with letters to General Mir, com-
manding at Grenada, desiring him to be of every
use, and to show us all possible attention.

The day of the 9th shone with a brilliant sun
at our starting on our march. The party mus-
tered at the inn: two coaches, with six mules
each, one for the ladies, and the other, of an
inferior description, for the servants; together
with horses for the gentlemen, and an escort,
consisting of a non-commissioned officer and six
Lancers; and, finally, a baggage-waggon formedTRAVELLING -DIFFICULTIES.

263

our cavalcade. The consul, as chief manager
and director, turned out a I'Espagnol, armed
with arquebuse and dagger; and it was jestingly
observed that he was well got up. I must do him
the justice to say he spared no effort or apparent
zeal; but particular interests cannot command the
same attention in numerous parties as general ar-
rangement.

Our first station was marked out for the Venta
Nova, about eight or nine leagues from Malaga.
We were, however, much behind the time of set-
ting out, and after a very laborious march up the
high Sierra that hangs over the city of Malaga,
found the day closing in upon us without our
having scarce accomplished a league of our road.
This was ominous for the close of our operations,
which turned out most deplorable and unfortunate.
The weather changed very much after our depar-
ture, and grew worse as the day advanced. Our
baggage-waggon was overloaded, and could move
but very slowly; and then came the knotty point
of discussion, whether it was wise to leave our bag-
gage with part of our escort, and trot on ourselves264

EL COLMENAR.

in order to escape as speedily as possible from the
pelting of the rain and wind. The dread of losing
the baggage by an attack from robbers, who might
be in league with the muleteers, and overcome a
diminished escort, was fearfully debated by the
ladies. The impossibility of comfort of any kind
without the beds, canteens, &c., which the heavy
waggons contained, was also put forward; and in
short, though there appeared to me little danger
in forming a suitable rear-guard, and making a
more rapid movement ourselves, the consul and
the ladies decided the point, and slowly we ad-
vanced after dark, at the rate of about one mile an
hour.

Towards eight o'clock we reached the village
of El Colmenar, still two leagues short of our
night quarters, where preparations had been made
for us; as is absolutely necessary with a large
party travelling in Spain. The muleteers were
now tired and began to grumble, declaring that
neither they nor their beasts could move much
further: the storm continued with violence, and
all the party were wet and out of humour. TheUNPLEASANT SITUATION.

265

various and clashing opinions in an allied force,
without a decided general-in-chief, always mili-
tates against a prompt and sound decision; much
precious time was lost in arguing : many thought
the muleteers were manoeuvring in order to en-
sure another day's employment; others believed
that if we went on we should be benighted,
robbed, and possibly murdered at last. How-
ever, the cavalcade continued its march.

We had progressed above a league over the never-
ending Sierra, when the mules entirely knocked
up ; the heavy mountain we had yet to climb
stood threateningly before us; the rain and hail
pelted with all the fury of the most violent squalls;
the wind was so boisterous that it almost blew bur
coaches over the precipice; our guides and escort,
helpless and immoveable, crouched under the rock
on the side of the road : and thus did our convoy
exhibit, in a dark night, at the summit of one of
the Apulduxaras, a picture of dismay and woe un-
utterable, till at length the tempest somewhat
abated. If there was a discussion before, Babel
itself could not go off at a score in the way the266

A MOUNTAIN VILLAGE.

assembled tongues did now, as to the course we
were to pursue. Although mules and donkeys
would not move up, it was suggested that they
would move down; on the other hand, it was
proposed to wait, as we had sent to the sta-
tion, and the people there, foreseeing our dilem-
ma from the black and lowering night, would
come back to our assistance. Yet to wait ex-
posed to the blast, with timid women dream-
ing of robbery and attack, was impossible; so,
after much difficulty, we turned our carriages
on the narrow way, flanked on both sides by pre-
cipices, and urged our weary frames and still
more weary beasts to retrace their steps to El
Colmenar.

No one can imagine what a Spanish mountain
village is that has never seen one. The streets of
El Colmenar were never made, or intended to be
made, for the passage of carriages, but only of
mules; consequently, ladies could not enter the
village but on foot — the weather worse than can
be described, the ways ancle-deep in mud and
water. Leaving the carriages in the high road,A SPANISH INN.

267

some of the escort went to reconnoitre anything in
the shape of an inn, but found shelter difficult to
obtain—good accommodation impossible. At last
we succeeded in reaching a posada; on opening its
door we found two small rooms and a kitchen en-
tirely filled with Spanish travellers, their mules
occupying the back of the premises, and themselves
so thickly surrounding the only glimmering of fire
they had in the kitchen, that there was not space
for one of our party to make way through and get
his clothes dried; much less was it possible for our
cook to obtain a place for dressing any thing for
us to eat; neither did it appear in any manner
practicable for the ladies to obtain a hole, however
small and inconvenient, to lie down in.

The host, unwilling to receive us, declared his
inn to be worse than two others in the village;
another long and laborious search was therefore
made by myself and Captain Lyon through a scat-
tered pueblo, over impracticable pavement, knock-
ing up old women and alarming the place to such
an extent that they set the church bells ringing,
as they do in all cases when these hamlets are at-268

BRUTAL MANNERS.

tacked by troops in the night, The whole place
was shortly in an uproar. Although we discovered
a venta with some little more room, we soon saw
that if the carriages were moved down to it we
should never get them back again, and there was
no possible means of transporting baggage with-
out the carriages in the middle of a dark night ;
so, after an hour's useless search, we travelled
back, discomfited and harassed, by the light
of a single lantern carried by a lancer, over
fragments, gutters, and drains, and joined our
ladies, who had remained waiting most impa-
tiently to know their fate. Finally, there was
nothing for us but to turn to the posada again.
We experienced at first the greatest brutality;
no entreaties would drive the cigar squadron
from its position round the fire; no money would
bribe them; they were travellers, and paid as
well as we, and they would give way to no one.
The situation of our ladies had no effect on
these ruffians.

In the midst of our despair, we heard an approach
of voices in an authoritative tone, and an advanceTHE ALCALDE.

269

of two persons towards the door. These turned
out to be the alcalde, with his municipality, alarmed
at this nocturnal invasion of the hamlet. He dis-
covered by inquiry who we were, and hastened in
the handsomest manner to offer his own house and
the best accommodation the village could afford.
When we declined this, from its distance and the
lateness of the hour, and only asked sufficient space
in the posada, he exhibited to us in a few moments
what a Spanish alcalde in the mountains can ac-
complish. With his stick and his fist, pushing
down one and knocking off the hat of another, he
cleared every part of the premises before we could
look round; turned the mules away; forced the
travellers to the other inn: and after a scene as
ludicrous as it was advantageous to ourselves, the
alcalde and his corporation stood before us like the
Slaves of the Lamp, and only asked what more we
required.

It may well be imagined what were our relief and
joy when one of our ladies was deposited in a small
garret, where, with true female ingenuity, she con-
trived to place her little white bed and toilet-table,270 TRAVELLING ACCOMMODATIONS.

while the wet ran in from the roof, and the floor
seemed bending under the tread. The other fair
traveller took possession of the parlour below;
while we all waited, half famished, for our dinner
till half-past nine o'clock, when it did come, and
did immortal honour to M. Perron; and in this
wretched hovel for the first, and I suspect for the
last time, did a party of English travellers dine off
plate from our commodious canteens, and regale
our repast with excellent cool champagne and
claret. The little white bed above alluded to was
placed at the extremity of a long loft, and I sus-
pect its occupier enjoyed as light a slumber as is
to be obtained on the gilded couch under the
painted roof of any palace or mansion. The men
occupied a large space in which were corn stores,
fruit, and all the winter provisions of the esta-
blishment. Such was the picture of the first
night's bivouac of a pleasure party in Spain,
while our escort and muleteers made common
cause and common fare with us. Through much
campaigning and long service, I never saw a more
wretched encampment. How our ladies sus-IMPORTANT SERVICES.

271

tained this and farther hardships, without per-
manent sufferings, it is difficult to imagine; our
cook alone saved the whole party from perish-
ing.CHAPTER XXVII.

The march resumed—Halt at Loxa—Further Disasters—Ac-
commodations of a Peasant's House — Good Conduct of the
Spanish Peasantry — Farmers — Spanish Roads — Grenada—
The Alhambra—The Court of Fishes—The Court of Lions—
Moorish Architecture — The Royal Apartments — Spanish
Hospitality—Some Evils of a fine Climate—Causes of the Po-
litical Degradation of Spain — The Mines — The Merchants of
Cadiz—The Spaniards' excuse for their Civil War—The Policy
of the late Government of England, as to Spain.

VOL. II.

TTOWN OF LOXA.

275

CHAPTER XXVII.

Haying marched two leagues short of our sta-
tion on the first day, it was at once apparent we
could not reach the destination marked out for us
on the second; accordingly, it was decided to stop
at the town of Loxa, just half-way between Malaga
and Grenada, where a good hotel was promised,
and with an easier day's journey, after the inex-
pressible fatigues of the preceding. This place,
however, was notorious for robbers and cut-throats
of all descriptions, which not a little added to the
fears of our ladies.

It was near nine o'clock the next morning be-
fore we could get our baggage packed and under
weigh; camp-beds taken down at night require
much trouble and labour to put up in the morning;

T 2276

TOWN OF LOXA.

and to this was added, preparing breakfasts, stow-
ing provisions, &c. In short, I found it required
two full hours to put the column, after a halt, again
in marching order. The carts broke down seve-
ral times with the luggage, the mules fell repeat-
edly ; we had an onerous day through mountain-
pass, crag, ravine, and torrents, and did not arrive
till very late at Loxa. Here, however, we had
tolerable quarters; the hotel was really good; the
place is built on the side of the mountain; and the
streets, consequently, are continually ascending and
descending. The country round is rude and rustic,
and the town is often the resort of horse and cattle
dealers, and jockies, matadors, gipsies, idlers and
vagabonds of every description; but nothing of
consequence occurred, save keeping up the cha-
racter of Loxa for robberies, by one of our silver
spoons being stolen.

Anxious to set out the following morning early
enough to reach Grenada, I gave myself uncommon
pains to get all off in good time; but it often hap-
pens when you try the most you fail the most sig-
nally. It is true we were on the start at four, aridTRAVELLING DISASTERS.

277

marched at seven; but the same hour in the even-
ing found us still leagues from Grenada, and horses,
mules, &c. in bad plight for proceeding. Lavellar,
the first village on the Duke of Wellington's estate
at the Sote de Roma, presented itself. The usual
debate occurred as to our course; and the usual in-
decision was the consequence. Fortunately in the
end we halted. The day, if possible, proved the most
trying of any. The wind was much colder upon
us as it came down from the Nesia Nevada, which
we were now approaching. Moreover, the inces-
sant rain of the two preceding days increased the
difficulties and depth of the road; our former mis-
fortunes appeared light compared with the present.
The valleys we had to pass through appeared like
lakes. To avoid one of them, we attempted to
pass some fields, and gain the road further on. But
the horses refused to drag the carriages, and we
had to return to the road we had so unwisely
quitted. At night-fall we were still, as I have
said, many leagues from Grenada. Our horses and
people completely knocked up, and it seemed im-
possible to proceed. It was proved to us next day278

A PEASANT'S HOUSE.

that the road was impracticable, and fatal acci-
dents would have occurred had we gone on. The
best peasant's Casa in the village was occupied by
us, but bad indeed was that best; a kitchen as
black as the nether regions, one small room within
another, the outer having melons, grapes, and win-
ter food suspended from its ceiling, a loft full of
grain and an outer shed, were literally the whole
accommodation for two noblemen's families with
their establishments; altogether consisting of six
guests and ten servants; this is really no exagge-
ration. One family party took the inner, and the
other the outer room; the strangers were in the
loft, and the kitchen in common : happily we here
again found the advantage of not neglecting it.

Our hosts were not very inviting looking people,
though turned out more honest than their looks be-
spoke. Our French cook rather startled some of
our party, by telling us that the last time he had
dressed a dinner in the place (which was for Mar-
shal Soult in the last war) one or two of his
underlings had been murdered in the night by the
peasantry.THE CONSUL'S SUPPER.

279

The village of El Hacha, which lodged us, is on the
borders of the Sote di Roma, which contains six-
teen small towns, the river Xenil running through
it. Our party being sadly fatigued, the ladies
repaired to rest in the best manner they could.
The supper of the consul and two or three of the
party may be thus described. Some half-dozen
Spanish peasants stood by the light of the fire and
a small lamp, looking darker than Moors, with
many naked children, and some dogs and cats, all
squabbling for the best and warmest place; the
consul with a large barn-door cock in one hand,
and a knife in the other; the cock's voice drown-
ing all others, as long as his life remained; another
of the group with a long string of onions in his
hand, which he was counting as a good Catholic
counts his beads ; the hostess boiling some water,
into which the consul's victim was to be plunged,
feathers and all; and then, after an hour's cooking,
a soup was produced, which, from the ravenous
cravings of all present, was deemed excellent; and
all was soon forgotten in sound sleep.

Our progress next morning was through the280

SPANISH PEASANTRY.

great plain that bounds the Sierra of the Apuldux-
aras, and on which Grenada is situated. The
principal part of the extent which the eye em-
braces forms the property that was conferred, with
the title of Due de Ciudad Rodrigo, on the Duke
of Wellington, at the close of the Spanish war.
This beautiful estate is one mass of fine corn
lands, and appeared in the highest state of culti-
tion.

And here I must in some measure do justice to
a country I think greatly maligned and vilified, in
the representations made to England of its state.
We had passed three nights in the midst of the
mountain, with a nominal escort, it is true; but
they regularly turned off to their quarters the in-
stant they entered the villages. Our party at any
moment might have been attacked; and the silver
plate and canteens exhibited nightly at our repasts
offered ample temptation; whereas we found the
peasantry not only kind and civil, but ready to
give us every thing we wanted, for fair remu-
neration ; and I feel perfectly satisfied that, with
kind words, a good guide, and civility, any partyFARMERS OF GRENADA.

281

might travel with as great security over Spain and
Portugal as in most parts of France. The habit
and supposed necessity of taking escorts afford
one means of paying the soldiery; and so long as
this system is kept up there is a reason for enhan-
cing fears and alarms. But once generally dis-
pensed with, I am sure all would be safe and as
secure as in other lands. At our quarters in the
villages we noticed that the families staid up, and
were prying and looking all night at our proceed-
ings ; but surely it was as natural for them to be
suspicious of our servants, as for us to be on the
qui vive about them.

The farmers in the province of Grenada are
industrious, hard-working people; their houses are
abundantly stored with provisions; they them-
selves are well clothed, have oxen as well as mules
at command, and their climate is so heavenly, that
in this, if in any thing, lies their misfortune. It
induces such an absolute cheapness of subsistence as
to beget indolence; and Spaniards in the pueblos,
both men and women, pass days after days with a
bit of a paper cigar in their mouths, or looking out282

SPANISH ROADS.

of door or window, and positively without making
exertion from morning till night.

I have mentioned the miserable state of the roads
in this, as indeed in most parts of the south of Spain,
with the exception of a few of the Estradas Reales;
but this is not so great a disadvantage to the
country as would appear at first sight. The in-
land commerce, in Russia, kept up by swarms of
little carts, is here managed by crowds of mules,
donkeys, and pack-horses. These are, like locusts,
perpetually moving; and so ingeniously are they
loaded, and so expert are the muleteers, that,
except from the slow pace and consequent length
of time occupied by a journey, with an average
stock of patience, travelling in Spain is not dis-
agreeable.

The road from Malaga to Grenada is little cheer-
ing ; being one uninterrupted range of the highest
mountains and passes. After Loxa you descend to
some picturesque valleys, where ilex, cork, and
olive-trees abound; and wherever there is a shel-
tered vale, or a piece of good soil, you are sure toGRENADA.

283

perceive that flourishing vineyards have taken pos-
session of it.

We entered the renowned city of Grenada la
Moresca, or the Moorish, as it is styled, par excel-
lence, by the Spaniards, on the 12th November;
our lodgings had been provided by the consul at
the best inn, which I must say was bad enough,
especially the accommodations and rooms.

This place is certainly inferior as a town to
Seville, but no place I have yet seen equals in my
mind the beauty of Cadiz. It is quite evident,
however, from the moment you drive through the
streets of Grenada, that it has not the style, the
wealth, or, what I should designate, the " savoir
vivre" of Seville. The streets, except one or
two, are narrow and dirty. The pavement is exe-
crable, and difficult to walk upon without being
accustomed to it; the shops are poor, and range
chiefly in one bazaar-sort of establishment; but
the articles are not good, nor is any kind of vertu
to be procured in the place.

The black mantilla for ladies, and the black suit
and cloak for the men, predominate here, which284

THE ALHAMBRA.

give a gloomy look to the numerous crowds that
congregate together for the purpose of discussion
and news. The most striking features of the town
are, the cathedral, and the Alameda, or great public
walk. On approaching from the lower ground to
the range or height on which Grenada stands, you
see a long and broad mass of white buildings rising
one above another, with Moorish towers, cathedral
turrets, convents, belfries, flat-roofed houses, &c.;
and above these again, the walls and various pro-
jecting defences of the most wonderful palace or
place in the known world—the Alhambra.

It is difficult to select the right designation for
this edifice, the master-piece of the arts, and of
human skill. It is more difficult to describe it in
detail, and quite impossible to conceive the match-
less enchantment of the scene, unless the eye has
embraced it.

Of all the writers that have attempted this sub-
ject, I believe Swinburne and Washington Irvine
have given the best and most minute description
of it; the sketches taken by various British artists
will far better instruct the untravelled world thanMOORISH ARCHITECTURE.

285

any thing from my pen. I think it combines every
thing that can be imagined of the sublimity of hu-
man genius with the highest perfection of executive
art.

While lost in wonder on gazing upon the ta-
bleaux that is thus presented before you, one be-
comes more powerfully excited by the thought, that
the Moslem power, which created such elaborately
wonderful works, taught Europe the marvels of
art and science, and preserved so much of the
refinements of learning for her use, has vanished
from the land like the dreams of its morning, but
bequeathing the mighty monuments of a real exist-
ence ; and now surviving only in another clime, and
with a barbarous race, that retain but the name
of Moors, and the faith of Mahommed. These
stupendous masses and piles of building, the
churches, the cathedrals, and their carvings, the
marble columns, hewn from apparently inaccessible
mountains, and wrought and finished by the nicest
art of the chisel and the most indefatigable labour,
to decorate the interiors; all belong to that occu-
pation of the Peninsula which it seems so incom-286

THE ALHAMBRA.

prehensible could ever have existed to come to an
end.

But to return to the Alhambra; it is not a for-
tress, it is not a palace, but partakes of both. The
wall that surrounds it has projecting defences, and
is very high. The place is situated as the hills rise
about a mile from the lower end of the town.
Between the wall and the structure the space js
occupied by gardens, beautifully adorned with the
orange, pomegranate, and jessamine; vines, ver-
binum hedges, and every fragrant shrub under the
canopy of heaven.

Your first entrance within the walled defence is
by an old Moorish portal of great antiquity and
beauty. You then wind round the ascending moun-
tain to the great doors which form the portals of
the Alhambra. Passing these, and coming to a
flat surface, you are struck with amazement at
the ruined fa9ade of one of the finest palaces
imagination can paint; the carvings of marble on
its exterior surpass belief, and are a perfect pro-
digy.

This wonderful building has never been finished;THE COURT OF FISHES.

287

and they inform you that Charles the Fifth of Spain
erected it as a palace for his horses, saying, they
should have a finer abode than any Moorish poten-
tate. In the interior court are enormous circu-
lar arched galleries, above and below; in the lower
of which the horses were to be established. All
this presents now an utterly desolate ruin ; but
you are conducted on to the great doors of the
Alhambra palace, and at once ushered into an
oblong open square, called the Court of Fishes.
The style of these courts, of a larger or smaller
size, are found generally the same in every Moorish
edifice.

A long reservoir of water, the shape of the
quadrangle, with every species of coloured fish,
occupies the centre; and round it are innume-
rable specimens of the shrubs and trees, par-
taking of the peculiar luxuriance of this climate.
Many of the trees here are cut into various forms
and shapes, giving the appearance of an old
French garden to the small interior parterres. At
each side of this court are recesses, or corridors,
opening into other spacious halls or saloons. Passing288	MOORISH ARCHITECTURE.

through one of these, they inform you it was the
spot where the Abencerrages were successively
beheaded. Proceeding to another, it is pointed
out as the hall where the ambassadors were re-
ceived ; a third, the hall of justice, and so on. In
short, Mr. Matteo, the guide, jabbered his Spanish
with such rapidity and fluency, that I must leave
others to narrate, for the sake of the curious reader,
what I feel incapable of accomplishing.

The predominant and characteristic feature of
this court was its infinity of marble pillars, of the
most beautiful cream colour, and with often-
repeated capitals, supporting the low Moorish
arches. This peculiar and most beautiful archi-
tecture is no where imitated in England ; of which
I know not the cause. Besides these arches, the
inlaid ceilings, carvings, and variegated colours of
the fretwork, worked in every pattern and form,
not only indicate the time, labour, and ingenuity
that must have been employed by the artists, but
impart also to the tout ensemble an indescribable
effect of lightness and beauty. I should not for-
get to add, that the sides of the rooms are allthe court of lions.

289

overlaid with tiles painted with allegorical or scrip-
ture subjects, or are also of variegated colours,
which give a look of cheerfulness and gaiety to
the apartments.

From the Court of Fishes you enter the Court
of Lions, a more spacious and splendid place, and
with countless columns and arabesques. In the mid-
dle is a large fountain, surrounded by carved marble
lions, from whose mouths the clear limpid stream
irrigates the various beds of the surrounding
flower-garden. You are then conducted through
successive halls and spacious saloons, and arrive
on one story at a long suite of lodging rooms.
These, the governor of the Alhambra, who is named
by the sovereign, and has a sort of sinecure, and
who attended us in our inspection, declared he was
always willing to give to strangers, especially
English, who would come and reside in the palace,
bringing their own beds and cooking utensils.
Many of my countrymen, he informed me, had
availed themselves of this permission, especially
those who have written on the wonders of the
Alhambra and the lions of Spain; and I really
vol. ir.	u290	THE ROYAL APARTMENTS.

think, any persons or families who love tranquillity
and romantic scenes, could never do better than
pass a summer in such an abode, rent free, where
they could have the most economical living, and,
in addition, a certain society in Grenada—though
I will not say of the first or most extensive descrip-
tion.

But to resume—the summit of the Alhambra
contains what is denominated the king's and
queen's apartments. Here are large marble baths,
and the decorations and chiselings are more exqui-
site than even in the rooms below. They show you
a square stone, on which the Moorish queen used
always to stand when receiving homage from her
company; and this is in an arched space at the
top of the building, which commands a view, not
only of the town of Grenada below, but of the
whole surrounding country, with the snow-topped
mountains at its side.

I have now done, and leave to others to describe
further what my powers are unequal to. The two
governors, of the town and of the Alhambra, accom-
panied us throughout our visit; nothing could sur-SPANISH HOSPITALITY.

291

pass the civility I received from General Mir, who
commanded in the place. We were likewise
assisted in all our plans by M. and Madame
Lopez. The lady, an Englishwoman and daughter
of Sir Gerard Noel, is married to the above-named
Spanish nobleman, whose property is in Castile;
but he has become a resident of Grenada, in con-
sequence of having received from the government
thefunpion of collector of civil dues at the gates.
Partial to England, and having received hospitality
from us, he takes every possible pains to return
the civilities, by paying attention to all our coun-
trymen that arrive; he placed his carriage at our
disposition, asked us to his house, and undertook
for us all those little offices of kindness which
travellers always stand so much in need of.

The more I have contemplated this magnificent
country, this extraordinary climate, superabundant
soil, and bold and sturdy peasantry, the more I am
at a loss to understand the causes that make all
these gifts of Providence of no avail, and why such
a nation should be plunged in a seemingly inter-
minable civil war, devastating the cities, the

u 2292

THE CLIMATE OF SPAIN.

fields, and the face of the provinces. An acute
Spaniard observed to me—" If we had but six
honest men, and they the ministers, we should
have peace, order, and tranquillity; but there are
no such persons to be found." Again he re-
marked : " The climate which you so much eulo-
gize is one cause of our wretchedness; every
article of life is so cheap that a Spaniard can live
on three half-pence a day, and would rather idle
all his time away than undertake any labour."
And this is probably much of the cause of Spanish
deterioration : where the earth produces easily, as
in warm climates, the people are unaccustomed to
work and activity, and to the valuable habits re-
sulting from steady exertion; so they sink satisfied
under a despotic government, because it saves them
the trouble of thinking and acting for themselves,
having no institutions to cherish a different spirit
among them. The old system, too, of Spain, when
each province had its own peculiar laws, customs,
and privileges, was a bar to free internal commu-
nication throughout the country, and roads and
bridges, and public works and enterprise, were andTHE MINES OF SPAIN.

293

are almost entirely wanting. There was no na-
tional opinion, for national education was at a low
ebb; corruption existed in and tainted every thing,
from the highest minister to the humblest of his
officials; the public departments and the law
courts were filled with favouritism, servility, and
venality; services and rights were disregarded in
favour of the highest bidder. This was the com-
plaint of the Spaniards themselves.

The mines of Spain have been no less neglected
than the above-ground produce. There are said to
be coal-mines of a good quality in Asturias, but
no one cares to lay out capital in working them.
The quicksilver mines of Almaden, &c., are the
property of the government; they pay no taxes, and
produce about one quarter of a million sterling:
these constitute one sixth of the whole, and the
revenue from the remainder does not exceed
£50,000 annually. The same number of beasts of
draught and burthen are said to be employed in
these mines, and half a million of men. Were
they properly looked after — which becomes the
more important since the loss of America to Spain—294

THE CIVIL WAR.

the increase, it is generally considered, would be
enormous, and the results highly beneficial to the
government and country at large, in the vast im-
pulse thus given to national activity. As it is, the
south of Spain is far superior to the north in the
development of resources, and the merchants of
Cadiz have certainly set an example to their
countrymen.

The Spaniards excuse their long intestine war
by reference to the quarrels of the Roses in Eng-
land. But this is so far back, that the excuse
seems to furnish the strongest grounds of accusa-
tion against the tardy and laggard spirit of the
nation, and the apathy and imbecility of its go-
vernment.

In all my thoughts, views, and information about
Spain, I have strongly differed from that administra-
tion which, by a most ill-timed interference, aided
to plunge the nation into all the horrors and cruelties
of that civil war, the merits or demerits of which
the British Parliament, during the last few years,
have been so continually occupied in discussing.
Had the rule of non-intervention been adhered to,LORD CLARENDON.

295

Spain would have been spared torrents of blood,
and this country a most useless and prodigal expen-
diture. The late ambassador in Spain (Lord Claren-
don, however talented or great his acquirements
may be, which far be it from me to dispute) gave
a most florid and brilliant description of that na-
tion, to bolster up which he was obliged to laud the
traitor Marotto to the skies, and our government
to confer the order of the Grand Cross of the Bath
on Espartero ; accompanied, too, by a letter from
a royal personage, which stands on record as a sad
memento of the fatally ill-conducted policy of the
government of that day. With respect to that
nation, I could much enlarge on this subject, but,
having gone over the ground so often, I will
only now agk if the visionary prospects of Lord
Clarendon will ever be realized in our time ? Let
us hope our present ministry will take a far dif-
ferent course, and, profiting by sad experience,
leave the Spaniards to themselves.CHAPTER XXVIII.

The Cathedral of Grenada — The Summer Gardens of the
Alhambra — The Convent of Cantuja— A Tertulia— De-
parture for Motril — Novel route and mode of travelling—
A Village Bivouac — Sagacity of Mules — Bezaen —- Its
Annoyances—Motril—A Spanish Posada—Spanish Exaction
— A Compliment at Parting — A Night Embarkation —
Carthagena — The Vice-Consul — Voyage to Barcelona — A
Storm—Female Endurance—Arrival at Barcelona — Descrip-
tion of the Bay and City—The English Consul—A Ball—
The Ladies of Barcelona — Valdez and Cabrera — Departure
—Voyage to Marseilles — Conclusion.CATHEDRAL OF GRENADA.

299

CHAPTER XXVIII.

On the 14th of November we visited the cathe-
dral, which is magnificent from its dimensions, and
from the exquisitely carved marble monuments of
the Spanish sovereigns. The painted glass does not
equal that of Seville, neither does the edifice itself;
and the matchless Murillos are wanting; neverthe-
less, it must be admitted that the cathedral of
Grenada presents some most interesting objects for
contemplation.

The summer-houses in the Alhambra gardens,
and the extensive views from the pinnacle of the
height immediately facing the Alhambra, were also
visited; and, on the following morning, we went
in carriages to the convent of Cantuja. This is
one of the finest monasteries, with the richest re-
venue, of those from which the monks have been300	THE CONVENT OF CANTUJA.

most unjustly driven, and in the cruellest manner.
The surrounding domains have been purchased by
a private individual, who now enjoys them. The
convent itself is the property of the govern-
ment. The interior is gorgeous in marble carvings,
columns, pilasters, slabs, altar-pieces, with doors
of ebony, mother of pearl, and silver, beautifully
combined and inlaid. Here, in the sacristy, they
show you a temple of gold, silver, and precious
stones; but this temple has now four black wooden
pillars to support it, instead of those of massive sil.
ver which it formerly possessed, and which, you are
informed, were carried off as plunder by Sebastiani
when he commanded at Grenada, for which he was
removed by Marshal Soult. How far this is really
true I cannot vouch; but it is the story of the
place.

We had a tertulia (as an evening-party is termed)
given us by our friends the Count and Countess
Lopez, where there was a fine pianist, who enter-
tained the company, but there was little else to
boast of in the way of amusement. Finally, on the
morning of the 17th, we left Grenada for Motril.DEPARTURE FOR MOTRIL.

301

Undoubtedly, our party incurred great risk in
adopting the resolution of proceeding to Motril, it
being a very small port, where the bay is entirely
exposed, and open to all winds; where there is no
quay or pier for embarkation, and nothing but a
gravelly beach, with the sea beating in, and almost
always producing a great surf. But there was a
common disinclination to renew the bivouacs of El
Colmenar and Lavellar; and it was urged that, by
going to Motril, we should escape sixty miles of
sea from Malaga, and have only ten leagues to go,
instead of twenty or twenty-two, back to the latter
place. These considerations decided our friends,
with their yachts, the Antelope and Xarifa, to order
them round from Malaga, and to wait for us at
Motril.

The Xarifa had been directed by Lord Wilton,
the day we left Malaga, to return to Gibraltar
for English letters ; but now orders were sent for
her, on her return thence, to follow us. And here
we were under the disagreeable necessity of part-
ing with one of our most agreeable and useful com-
pagnons de voyage. Captain Lyons, with his yacht,302

GRENADA TO MOTRIL.

the Merlin, had now, for nearly two months, post-
poned, with the greatest amiability, a voyage to
the West Indies, whither he was bound when we
met him at Cadiz. He had accompanied us through
all our dangers and difficulties; and, I believe lite-
rally, would still have remained with us, if we could
have surmounted the indelicacy of pressing him for
our sakes, against arrangements long made, and
against the solicitation of friends to whom he had
engaged himself.

It is useless, for it is impossible, to describe the
regret with which we all parted from him. He
returned on horseback with his friend, Major Hort,
whose society we had also enjoyed and prized, to
Malaga, where he joined his ship, and sailed for
Gibraltar and Madeira, taking our letters and di-
rections for the former place.

The route from Grenada to Motril has never be-
fore been travelled by English ladies on donkeys,
so far at least as we could gain information. The
distance between the places is ten leagues; and for
only four of these is there carriage road. We were
told that the government were intending to formNOVEL JOURNEY.

303

an estrada real from Grenada to this little port,
which does considerable business in commerce;
and that several convicts had been working at it of
late, but had been taken off for some more import-
ant undertaking. We determined, on the above
intelligence, that our ladies should go four leagues
in a coach, and ride two more on mules, on the
first day's march ; while the second day's journey
was to be performed entirely on the mules. We ar-
ranged a bivouac at a village called Bezaen, which
was to be our first day's halt; put our column in
motion very early; and having less lumber than
on our former march, there being no cart or wag-
gon, all our baggage was carried on mules. And
here a very wholesome lesson was taught by expe-
rience to future travellers' expeditions in Spain:
namely, first, that you never should join two
domestic establishments together; there being no-
where any adequate accommodation for them.
And, secondly, that you should never have baggage
carried in any manner but on mules.

The sierras, mountain torrents, stupendous crags,
and beautiful valleys, which we passed in two days'304	DANGERS AND DIFFICULTIES.

march, it is superfluous to describe. The scenery
was far more picturesque than on the road to Gre-
nada. A fordable river in a romantic pass afforded
subject of merriment and even danger: the lusty
muleteers and other Spaniards stripped themselves
to their waists, to aid their donkeys and mules
through the water with their heavy burthens; while
those poor animals were almost carried off their
legs by the rush of the swollen current as they
passed. The way in which the docile and tract-
able creatures carried up their heavy loads, over
broken stones, flints, and sliding fragments, where
bipeds could scarcely keep their feet; and in like
manner descended the steep and fearful precipice
where it seemed as if every step would plunge
burthen, beast, and rider into eternity; cannot be
remembered without wonder.

Our quarters at Bezaen had more than the usual
provision of bugs and fleas. Bonfires were actually
made of them, on the walls and in their holes, by
the ladies' maids. There never was any sight more
disgusting to cleanly, civilized, and delicate English
women. But what our ladies went through I hadMOTRIL.

305

much rather bury in oblivion than record here;
and, be it observed, all this fatigue and hardship is
not inflicted, as on soldier or sailor upon service,
by a sense of duty, but is undertaken entirely to
gratify a craving curiosity. My doubt, however,
is whether they do not pay too dear for their
merchandize, or are compensated, for much and
lengthened inconvenience and misery, by any thing
they get in return.

On the 18th we entered Motril. The posado
was so miserably small that it was impossible for
all the party to put up in it. I made, therefore, a
bold attempt, calling upon the governor, and in-
sisting upon having a private house. After some
time I accomplished the point, and separated our
establishment from the other party. I had, how-
ever, to pay largely for my success, as the uncon-
scionable Spaniard had the effrontery to ask me
forty dollars, (about £8), for one night's quarters.
I positively resisted this imposition, and got off for
twenty, which was also far too much.

The last compliment paid to us at Motril by the
inhabitants was designed to show us great honour.

VOL. II,	X306

EMBARRASSMENT.

They collected in a large body the evening previous
to our sailing, with numerous flambeaux and bands
of music: half the population of the place pro-
ceeded to our quarters and serenaded us for an
hour, while the reciprocal vivas showed a good un-
derstanding on all sides. I had brought letters
from General Mir at Grenada for the colonel com-
manding, and all the military, joined in the tribute
of honour and applause that was thus paid us.

An embarrassment arose this evening. Lord
Wilton's yacht, the Xarifa, had not arrived from
Malaga : the Antelope, in which my family sailed,
was come. It threatened to blow; and if we did
not avail ourselves of the night, to go on board, it
was urged that we might be prevented embarking
from the open beach by unfavourable weather for
days to come. On the other hand, by going we
were obliged to leave our compagnons de voyage,
which was distressing. However, there was hardly
any choice; by remaining, we could do them, with-
out their vessel, no good; by embarking we en-
sured an offing for ourselves; and, probably, if their
yacht did not arrive, they would be obliged to re-
turn to Malaga. We determined finally on theCARTHAGENA.

307

night embarkation, which was extremely disagree-
able, difficult, and hazardous, from a very exposed
beach. Happily, however, we accomplished it
without accident, and, weighing anchor at twelve at
night, sailed for Carthagena.

After a prosperous run, with a westerly breeze
in the day, and an offshore wind at night, we dis-
covered the heights and city of Carthagena in the
evening of the 28th. It was a close run between
the sun setting and our entrance into the bay. By
not saving the former, you are prevented sending
your boat ashore, or getting pratique—that is, the
bill of health, so as to land any one from the ship
that night. This regulation is adopted with the
greatest strictness and severity in all the ports of
the Mediterranean. A quarantine officer comes
on board, so soon as the vessel arrives in the har-
bour, and desires to see your bill of health, which
you must be furnished with from the place you
last left. He then examines your crew, &c.; and
if he finds all right, you are permitted to go on
shore in your boat; but you cannot sail again with-
out a certificate of the last examination.

X 2308

CARTHAGENA.

Our yacht-sailing crew, but, above all, our ad-
mirable captain (whose skill and seamanship no
amateur sailor ever surpassed), was so experienced
that they never required a pilot for entering any of
these bays and places; but the Spaniards are always
determined to force one upon you, for the dollars ;
so we had some squabbling on this subject before
we came to anchor. After all, we found we could
not land until the following morning, the 21st
November.

Carthagena exhibits a melancholy spectacle of
fallen grandeur. It formerly enjoyed the reputa-
tion of being the greatest naval arsenal in Spain.
The finest feature in the place is, doubtless, the
excavation of an immense basin, which can hold, at
least, fifteen or sixteen line of battle ships afloat.
This splendid dock is surrounded by storehouses,
warehouses, and machinery of all kinds for the con-
struction and repairs of ships. But all are now in
a state of complete destruction and ruin. With
the loss of the Spanish navy, the annihilation of her
docks and arsenals has followed. It is melancholy
to see, in this city, the decadence that has ensued.CARTHAGENA.

309

There is now little or no commerce with the port;
the houses are inhabited only by persons of very
moderate means; and some of the former, like the
works on the basin and quays, are tumbling down,
while others seem neither in a state of cleanliness
nor repair. The shops are miserable, but the market
is good; and here, because there was not a large
requisition from any military body near the place,
all supplies were plentiful.

The English consul was absent. The vice-consul,
a Spaniard, conducted us into the house of his
chief, which we found comfortable; and we were
provided with all necessaries for our menage during
our stay. The captain of the port, an old Spanish
officer, was our English interpreter with our nation's
vice-consul, the latter not knowing one word of our
language. We were taken round the arsenal and
the city, but in the latter there is nothing to see.

The commander of the place is of Irish extrac-
tion. His name is O'Daly ; and he has been many
years in possession of a command which, from pe-
culiar circumstances, has become much of a sinecure.

From Carthagena we proceeded, on the 24th, to310

VOYAGE TO BARCELONA.

Barcelona. We sailed in company with the Xarifa,
which had now joined us. The wind was unfavour-
able, and the weather lowering; and we commenced
by beating to windward, an operation never agree-
able in a small vessel. On the 2 5th the tempestuous
weather continued, and, as the evening fell, became
very dusky and thick.

The Xarifa hailed the Antelope, and proposed that
we should anchor in the bay of Calpe, or Amorica
Bay. Consenting to this, we came to an anchor at
night; but we found the sea so rough, and so much
swell when the cutter was riding in the bay, that we
weighed at two o'clock in the morning of the 26th,
and stood out to sea ; our first object being to get
round Cape St. Martin, when we expected to steer
a straight course for Barcelona.

We had no great desire to delay at Alicant or
Valencia, having seen enough of the generality of
Spanish cities, although the latter is described as
interesting and beautiful; but we heard there was
difficulty in landing, and going from the beach to
the town, which was two miles off. Besides which,
that roadstead, with the wind blowing to shore, asA HURRICANE.

311

happened now to be the case, might place the little
cutter in jeopardy. We laboured very hard all day
to get round Cape St. Martin, the weather in-
creasing in severity ; having accomplished it, we
bore up towards Peniscola and Tarragona, owing
to a change in the wind. Towards dusk, the breeze
increased so violently that we took in the mainsail,
set a trysail, and prepared for a very rough night,
the storm coming on to head us more and more.

Towards two o'clock in the morning of the
27th it blew a perfect hurricane; our little vessel
gallantly bore up against the violence of the
dashing waves, which often covered her with water,
and the rush of the seas down the companion-ladder
and hatchway of the cabin inspired an awe which
(however you are told, or you know, is of no con-
sequence and forbodes no danger) it is impossible
to describe. Separated from her family and home,
I saw a tender and delicate mother and wife launched
in a little bark upon the dangerous coast of Spain,
for the object of gratification and amusement, alone;
and I could not but picture to myself what would be
thought of me, and said in that world which weighs312	ARRIVAL AT BARCELONA.

and scrutinizes the actions of all, if any fatal mischief
occurred to so valuable a life. It was consolation,
however, to see the great firmness and heavenly
patience that were displayed by the party referred to.

To do our commander here again justice, he
hardly ever left the helm, and was incessant in his
cares and zealous efforts to diminish every inconve-
nience as far as possible; and I feel satisfied that it
was owing to his judgment and nautical knowledge
that we were ultimately brought safe into port, after
lying to under trysail for twenty-four hours, in a
small yacht of seventy tons, and suffering as much
as any unfortunate persons ever went through in a
gale of wind.

This dreadful storm, we learned afterwards, not
only did great damage along the Spanish coast, at
Alicant, Valencia, Peniscola, and Barcelona, by
destroying chimneys, roofs, &c., of houses, but
actually drove on shore H.M.S. the Tribune, then
lying at anchor at Tarragona, together with thirty-
two other vessels, which were wrecked or destroyed
at different ports by the same gale. It was im-
possible therefore for us, on landing at Barcelona,BARCELONA.

313

not to be grateful to Providence for having so well
weathered the storm. It ceased towards the even-
ing, and we went on prosperously on the 28th; the
29th we were becalmed, but made the harbour of
Barcelona on the 30th in the morning.

The entrance to the bay adds greatly to the
beauty of the place; it is remarkably striking. The
city is built in a semicircle, and the houses are
far more imposing than those of any other town on
the coast. There is a splendid quay, and a ram-
part, fronting the sea, where the esplanade is so
wide and extensive as to form a delightful prome-
nade. The two miles north of the port form large
harbours, with a lighthouse, and afford anchorage
for all vessels trading with this great commercial
depot. Formerly, and when civil war was not the
cruel fate of this unhappy land, all kinds of goods
were transported hence, by excellent roads, to Ma-
drid and the interior of the country; a convenience
such as no other town could boast, in the same
degree. In addition to the old city, the merchants
are now building large modern edifices, like the
arcade, which is built in a spacious square, with314

BARCELONA.

two bold entrance gates, exactly in the centre of
the amphitheatre formed by the town towards the
sea. These new buildings will be very superb
■when finished, and the entrance adds greatly to the
appearance of the place, which is bounded by its
forests of masts in the Bana, or one side of the bay,
while rises proudly, on the other, the famed fortress
of Monjui, admitted to be one of the finest fortifi-
cations in existence.

In the new buildings here described the rich
merchants of Barcelona have laid out their capital,
created and brought from South America, from
finding, perhaps, at this period no other means of
getting interest, or otherwise turning it to account.
The large houses are let and taken as soon as built,
by Spanish Americans or others; and so full was
the city when we arrived that we found it impos-
sible to get any accommodation but of the most
miserable description. The population consists of
about 120,000 inhabitants; and added to these
there were upwards of 30,000 refugees, who had
fled from the seat of war in the mountains, for
protection, and filled every corner of the city.A BALL AT BARCELONA.

315

We found Mr. Annesly, the English consul, united
to Mademoiselle Brockhausen, a Swedish lady of the
most interesting and fascinating manners, and both
were ready immediately to give up their house, and
be of every possible assistance to us; but, declining
these offers, we put up with two wretched rooms
without fireplaces, and with only brazeros, which
are as odious as they are unwholesome, and lived
thus uncomfortably, to repose from the terrible
knocking about we had sustained in the storm.

It constantly happens, especially with travellers
when they have entertained great hopes, and indulged
agreeable ideas of the comforts and pleasures of a
place, that the reality falls very short of the ex-
pectation ; though, sometimes, the direct contrary
occurs: yet Barcelona is a fine town, and, had we
not been so ill lodged, we might have enjoyed our-
selves during our stay.

The consul, Mr. Annesly, gave us as splendid a
ball as the city afforded; and all the authorities,
civil and military, were invited. Though there
were evidently no ladies of the premiere noblesse,
the party was gay; but the women were dressed in816

VALDEZ AND CABRERA.

bad French style, and many looked more like Dutch
women than Spanish; which, after all the descrip-
tions I had heard of Barcelona shapes and Barcelona
walking, rather disappointed me.

At the moment, there was a good deal of excite-
ment in the political and military state of Barce-
lona and the province of Catalonia. The Captain-
General, Valdez, had had an action with Cabrera,
at Solsona. Valdez claimed the victory, but it was
very hardly contested; and, unless relieving a gar-
rison by throwing in supplies, and carrying off the
sick and wounded of the place, both which he cer-
tainly effected at Solsona, can be called success, all
the rest of the combat told entirely in favour of the
Carlists, who, under Cabrera, were daily becoming
more formidable. It also seemed more certain
that Espartero's army would be confined to de-
fensive operations during the remainder of the
winter ; and that they would likewise be exposed
to continual harass and attack on their long line
of occupation, from Cabrera's central position.
Placed as Morella was, nearly impregnable by na-
ture, and improved by art, Cabrera possessed theSTATE OF PARTIES.

317

rare advantage of a position from which he could
move at any time, with a strong force, against any
weak point of the Due de Victoria's lengthened line
of communication; and after performing some great
exploit, or striking a formidable blow, he could re-
enter his fortress and fastnesses by the various roads
and passes, which, as an active partizan, he held in
his own hands.

From all that I could learn, it was idle to sup-
pose the contest in Spain likely to be brought
to an end; on the contrary, deep-settled revenge
for the treachery and baseness of Maroto, and for
the loss of the Carlist army in the north, seemed to
grow up on all sides amongst the Spaniards of the
south. The change, however, that now took place
in the government of Madrid, and the dissolution
of the Cortez, by bringing the Moderados into power
and distressing the Exaltados, had great effect, and
produced various corresponding changes in Cata-
lonia. General Valdez and General Seoane saw
their approaching fate; and about the time of our
arrival had sent in their resignations to the queen's
government. Their partisans in the province were318	LORD CLARENDON'S SPEECH.

filled, of course, with discontent and vexation, and
very serious riots were apprehended at Barce-
lona. Nothing could be more insecure than the
actual state of affairs; for, notwithstanding that
General Seoane had a large garrison to protect one
of the greatest depots of commercial riches in Spain,
it is a fact that neither the governor nor a single
officer could stir out of the place without an escort,
so much did they dread the Carlist bands that were
hovering continually about.

An anecdote here deserves to be mentioned, as
indicative of the state of feeling towards the late
British minister at the court of Madrid. It will
be remembered that his lordship, after leaving the
embassy, and at the close of the last session, made
an important speech, already alluded to, as it was
considered at that time, upon the state of Spain, and
its progress towards tranquillity, improvement in
institutions, finance, and on the consolidation of the
power of the queen and the government. On what
data all these statements were founded, or from
which offices in Madrid such glowing imagery was
got together, it was difficult to say; but it is certainAN ADDRESS MANQUE.

319

that his lordship's friends and flatterers in Spain
cried up this discourse so eloquently, that it was said
a subscription was raising to present the ambassador
with a service of plate, in grateful remembrance of
this, to Spain, most satisfactory oration.

Whether the monies came in, and the piastres
were subscribed—whether it succeeded to any and
what extent, in Madrid or elsewhere, or if his
lordship has received the plate, I really am not
informed; but I was told, and on good authority,
at Barcelona, that, finding all notion of a subscrip-
tion failed, some friends tried to get signatures to
an address, which was handed about the town
in every quarter; but that it was a fact that not
five names of any respectability were attached to
it; that at the head of this copious list was the
important and valuable autograph of a botching
tailor, who keeps a small shop in the town, and that
the other names were signed by the lowest of the
rabble. A gentleman, who saw the parchment,
told me he was satisfied they would be ashamed,
ultimately, to send it to England. A British mi-
nister can sometimes be deceived as to the state of
the country in which he is resident.320	VOYAGE TO MARSEILLES.

Our companions, the Wiltons, not receiving
favourable accounts from England, became very
impatient to get to Marseilles, where they expected
further letters; and we were no less eager to arrive
there to meet our children, from whom we had now
been a month separated.

On Thursday evening, the 5th of December, the
Xarifa got under weigh. The weather was bad,
and the wind adverse. We pressed them not to
go to sea then, but to remain till Saturday. Fri-
day, all by common consent agreed, was an inau-
spicious day to begin a voyage; why the super-
stition exists I never could discover. All entreaty,
however, was vain; but the result proved how
much better it would have been if our prayers had
been listened to. The schooner sailed at three
o'clock on the 5th, the yacht at one o'clock on the
7th; and, strange to say, both anchored in the
port of Marseilles within the same hour on the
Monday.

The Antelope cutter had a most beautiful run
of it till Sunday evening; indeed, had she had
two hours more daylight, she would have arrived
in port twelve hours before the Xarifa: but,CONCLUSION.

321

unwilling to make the land at night, she hauled
off, when a very stiff contrary gale arose, and she
was beating off and on in view of the harbour-
light all night long, and ran in only the next
morning.

Some unfavourable accounts now reached us of
the ill-health of our son Seaham, who was to have
joined us at Marseilles, and to have proceeded with
us to Malta, Alexandria, &c. But Lady L. being
alarmed respecting him, we resolved to return home
by Paris without delay; which put an end at once
to my writing and further observations.

VOL. IX.

YINDEX.

Abdel Kader, his struggles against the French power in Africa,
ii., 243

Abdul Mehjid, alluded to, L, 222—visit to the Winter Palace
of, 270 — introduction to, 273—his person, ib.—Lord Lon-
donderry's speech to, 275—his gracious reply, 276—Lady
Londonderry's interviews with, 272, 331, 332—Frank ladies
at the court of, 280—acquirements of, 283 — his conversa-
tion, 284—filial remembrance of, 301 — indolent habits of,
333—his brother, 334—his ministers, 335
Aberdeen, Lord, discoveries of, ii., 58
Ablution, a thorough one, i., 294
Abyssinia, black slaves from, i., 299
Achmet Bey, reply of, i., 181

-Pasha, particulars relative to, i., 231—his wife, 232—

audience with, ib.—reply of, 263
Adam, Sir Frederic, ability of, ii., 40
Adelaide, Queen, her visit to Malta, ii., 84
Adrianople, treaty of, i., 148, 154 — loss of the Russians at,
241

Africa, appearance of the coast of, ii., 209 — impressions on

first landing in, 215—on the war of the French in, 242
Agriculture, neglected state of in Turkey, ii., 14
Aix-la-Chapelle, arrival at, L, 16—recollections relative to, 17
—the congress at, ib.—present state of the town, 18—baths
at, ib.

Y 2324

INDEX.

Ajora, M., Governor of Seville, ii., 154
Alameda, at Cadiz, ii., 150

Alcazar, at Seville, ii., 183—commodious gallery in, 184
Algesiras, excursion to, ii., 235

Alhambra, a visit to the palace of, ii., 284—the court of
fishes in, 287 — the court of lions, 289 — royal apartments
in the, 290
Alvarez, Governor of Malaga, ii., 262
Amateur of the bull-fight, ii., 168, 169
Ambassador, Austrian, kindness of, i., 227, 325
Ambassadors, residences of, at Therapia, i., 303
Annesly, Mr., the English consul at Barcelona, ii., 314
Antwerp, f£te at, i., 8
Appony, Count, talents of, i., 70
Arabas, or Turkish carriages, i., 259
Arab encampment at Tangier, ii., 219, 223
Architecture, Moorish, ii., 285, 288
Armenian women, their appearance described, i., 261
Arms' bazaar at Constantinople, i., 308
Army, Turkish, state of discipline in the, i., 239
Arsenal at Constantinople, i., 315
Aschaffenburg, town of, i., 34
Assembly room at Wisbaden, i., 30, 31

Athens, the Acropolis at, ii., 57—grandeur of the ruins at, 58
—general appearance of the city, 67 — the king's palace at,
68—its immense cost, 69
Austria, the ladies of, i., 60, 61 — mismanagement in the go-
vernment of, 66—policy of, 69, 135—state of^the army of,
70—treaty between and England, 138—her alliance with
Russia, ib,

-, Emperor of, his reception of Lord Londonderry, i.,

89—his manners and conversation, 90
Austrian Steam Navigation Company, i., 110—shares in, 111
—alluded to, 341INDEX,

325

Bakshish, custom of, i., 238
Ball at Barcelona, ii., 315

---Galatz, i., 151

---Seville, ii , 200

Barber's shop at Constantinople, i., 259
Barcelona, a voyage to, ii., 310 — arrival at, 312 — striking
view of the city, 313 — new buildings at, 314 —the Eng-
lish consul at, ib.—a ball at, 315
Bargain, a bad one, i., 297
Bargaining for a horse, i., 327

Bath, description of, a Turkish one, i., 291—attendants at,

292—unpleasant sensations in, 293
Baths at Aix-la-Chapelle, i., 18—at Wisbaden, 29
Bavaria, proposed visit to the king of, i., 38 — refused audi-
ence of, 39 — his laudable encouragement of the arts, 45 —
his temple at Wahlhallen, 46
-, the Prince of, ii., 61, 65, 74

Bazaars, grand, at Constantinople, i., 178, 308—cheating at,

179, 336—inconveniences of, 181
Beauvale, Lord, dinner given by, i , 55 — official summons
from, 91

Beckford, Mr., his residence at Montserrat, ii., 139
Belem, Madame, hotel of, ii., 110, 112, 135, 139

--, palace of Marialva at, ii., 109, 139, 140

Belgian manners, i., 14

Bentinck, Captain of the Antelope, ii., 202

--, Mr., ii., 31

Berkeley, Sir George, politeness of, ii., 39
Berquet, M., Spanish painter, ii., 201

Bezaen, Spanish village of, ii., 303 — disagreeable quarters
at, 304

Bieberach, palace of the Duke of Nassau at, i., 27, 32—fine
view from, ib.326

INDEX.

Bishops, palace of the, at Wurzbourg, L, 35
Boats, Wallachian, i., 122
Bosca, M., magic arts of, i., 317

Bosphorus, anchorage in the, i., 155—entrance into the, 156

—	its beauties, 161, 276 — a sail down the, 302
Breila, town of, L, 148

Bridge, wooden, at Constantinople, i., 166 — view from,
167

Brill, town of, i., 4
Bonaparte, offers of, ii., 8

Braganza steamer, ii., 97,101 — encounters bad weather, 103

—runs aground, 104—alarm aboard, 105
Brakenbury, Mr., the British consul at Cadiz, ii., 152, 201,
209

Browne, Colonel, able advice of, ii., 46, 228

Brussels, English residents at, i., 11 —the Hdtel de Belle Vue

at, 12—a diner en gourmand at, ib.

Bull-fight at Seville, described^ii., 167—the amateur, 168—
the company present, 170—their good manners, 171—sorry
horses at, 176—the Banderilleros, 178—the Matador, 179

—	revolting spectacle at, 180 — contrasted with those in
former times, 181

Butler, Mr., the British consul at Tetuan, ii., 251
Byron, descriptions of, i., 155, 156—alluded to, ii., 58

Cabins of Austrian steamers, i., 113
Cabrera, reports respecting, ii., 156, 157, 202, 316
Cadiz, beautiful approach to, ii., 147—the city described, 148
—variety of costume at, 149 — cathedral at, 150—prome-
nades at, ib.—the Alameda at, ib. — narrow streets at, 151
—the British consul at, 152 — voyage from to Seville, 153
—fortifications at, 207
Cadoval, due de, ii., 125INDEX.

327

Caiques, splendid, ii., 5

Campbell, Colonel, narrow escape of, ii., 81

Canal, proposed, to connect the commerce of the Danube, the

Mayne, and the Rhine, i., 37—to Kustendji, 144
Candles, gigantic, i., 314
Cantalupe, Lord, courtesy of, ii., 262
Cantuja, visit to the convent of, ii., 299
Capri, island of, gale off, ii., 88
Carey, Mr., his inn at Lisbon, ii., 138
Carlos, Don, fall of, ii., 128, 235
Carriages, Portuguese, ii., 116

Carthagena, arrival at, ii., 307 — fallen grandeur of, 308 —

the commander at, 309
Cartwright, Mr., reinstatement of, i., 318—his long residence

in Turkey, ib.

Cassell, railroad from, i., 29

Cathedral, Gothic, at Seville, ii., 156, 192—especial privilege

connected with, 193
Cavalry, French, tactics of the, i., 243
-, Greek, their exercise, ii., 66

Ceuta, visit to the governor of, ii., 239—some account of the

town of, 240—strength of, 241
Character, a curious one, i., 16 — an alarming one, ii.,
102

Chartists in Portugal, ii., 126
Christian promenade at Seville, ii., 155
Christino party in Spain, ii., 157, 158
Church, General, kindness of, ii., 61—alluded to, 74
Cigar Makers, at Seville, ii., 185

Cintra, described, ii., 137—the Cork convent at, ib.— the Col
de Penar convent at, 138 — bad road to, 141—compared
with Gibraltar, 234
Circassian staves, i., 299328

INDEX.

City of Dublin steamer, ii., 80—arrives at Malta, ib.
Clarendon, Lord, report of, ii., 295—a speech of, 318
Clarke, Mr., suspension bridge projected by, i., 116
Coblentz, steamer to, i., 23

Coffin, Captain, commander of the Trinculo, ii., 151

Col de Penar convent at Cintra, ii., 138

Colloredo, Count, reputation of, i., 70

Cologne, some account of the town of, i., 19

Combermere, Lord, refusal of the King of Bavaria to grant

him an audience, i., 39
Commerce, Turkish, alterations in the system of, ii., 21
Concert, a Moorish one, ii., 222
Conference, a royal one, ii., 73

---, Turkish, i., 229

Conservatory, splendid, at Eisenstadt, i., 84
Constantine, tomb of, i., 314

Constantinople, passage to, i., 109 — first coup d'ceil of, 157
—defences of, 158—objects on approaching, ib.—its beauties
overrated, 161—fine view of, 167—extent of the city, 168—
means of transport to, ib,—passing of a pacha at, 169—the
women at, 170, 257—aspect of the streets in, ib.—the houses,
171—traffic in eatables at, ib.—general cemetery near, 172,
184—the dogs at, 173, 287—Mosques at, 174—numberless
minarets, 175 — the porte, 176 — festival of the ramazan at,
177 — the grand bazaars at, 178 — palace of the seraglio at,
182—the sultan's palaces at, 183 — rejoicings at, 255 —
market for Turkish women and slaves, 260—the Seraskier
Platz at, 256, 262, 308—some account of the environs, 269
—a visit to the sultan's winter palace at, 270—violent hurri-
canes at, 286; ii., 3—dreary aspect of in winter, i., 287—de-
scription of the slave-market at, 296—Mahmoud's tomb at,
300—the Arms' Bazaar at, 308—opinion as to the plague at,
309—firman to visit remarkable places at, ib,—mosque of St.INDEX.

329

Sophia at, 311 —the arsenal at, 315—the dancing dervises
at, 316—society at, 319—viands at, 323—mode of life at,
324—the shopkeepers of, 335—farewell to, ii., 4—increase
in the christian population of, 22
Contentment, an invaluable gift, i., 150
Contrast, a strange one, ii., 108
Convent, Spanish, interior of a, ii., 198
Corfu, quarantine at, ii., 34, 36 — the lazaretto near, 37—re-
union at, 38—the Club Hotel at, ib.—reforms at, 43 — for-
tifications at, 44—happiness of the people at, 46
Corinth, conveyance to, ii,, 55
Cork convent, at Cintra, ii., 137
Corn-mills, near Mayence, i., 29
Cosmetics, use of in Turkey, i., 261
Court of Fishes, described, ii., 287

--Lions, in the Alhambra, ii., 289

Croissard, General Baron, services of, i., 71—his suggestions
as to a march of the allies on Paris, by Holland, 72—his ac-
count of the battle of Culm, 74—his description of the Etat-
Major of the Peninsular War, 76
Culm, battle of, i., 74
Currants, extensive trade in, ii., 82

Dancing, a mode of divine worship, ii., 193
Danube, grandeur of its scenery, i., 49, 114 — steam naviga-
tion on the, 111—suspension bridge over the, 116—rapids
on the, 123 — passage boats on the, 124—improvements on
the, 133 — mouth of the, 153 — passages of the, ib.—trade
of the, 154 — report to Prince Metternich, on the naviga-
tion of the, 341
Dardanelles, features of the, ii., 6—passage of the, 31
Dervise, a just one, i., 236
Dervises, dancing, at Constantinople, i., 315330

INDEX.

Devonshire, Duke of, his great taste, i., 85—alluded to, 191,

197, 204, 211, 212, 224
Divorces, easily obtained, ii., 42

Dogs of Constantinople, i., 173, 287—their ferocity, 174
Donegal, flag ship, off Lisbon, ii., 131
Douglas, Sir H., courtesy of, ii., 35, 38—college of education
established by, 40—-judgment of, 42 — his reforms at Corfu,
43—call of, ib.—kind suggestion of, 51
Doyle, Percy, his correspondence with the Marquis of Lon-
donderry, i., 193, 194, 198
Draffin, M., the portrait-painter, i., 102
Dream, yacht, dinners on board the, i., 156, 303 ; ii., 4
Drenkova, some account of, i., 119, 343, 345, 347
Dress, Turkish, change in, ii., 10

Drummond, Mr., the British consul at Tangier, ii., 210 — his

politeness, 211—high character of, 220
Durham, the Earl of, alluded to, i., 211, 216, 220
Duroni, Dr., a singular character, i., 117, 329
Dutch frigate, at Gibraltar, ii., 226, 227

--towns, improvements in, i., 7

--vessels, i., 5

Earthquake, at Zante, ii., 81

Egypt, proposal to place it under the dominion of Turkey,
i., 251

Egyptian regiments, i., 256—dress of the men, 257
Ehrenbreitstein, fortress of, i., 27

Eisenstadt, arrival at, i., 82 — splendid palace at, 83 — its

beautiful conservatory, 84
El Colmenar, Spanish village of, ii., 264—the streets of, 266
— wretched inn at, 267 — discomforts at, 268—the alcalde
of, 269—a night at, 270
El Hacha, village of, ii., 279INDEX.

331

Ellis, Mr., alluded to, i., 211, 216, 220

Ellsler, Fanny, attachment of the Chevalier von Gentz to,

i.,	99, 100

Embassy, British, supineness of, ii., 23
Emir, Pacha, coolness of, i., 330
Employments, official, in Turkey, i., 18
Equipages, Spanish, described, ii., 203

--, Turkish, i„ 258

Espartero, Order of the Bath conferred on, i., 95
Esterhazy, Prince, visit to the palace of, i., 81 — kind atten-
tions of, 49—his palace at Marienkiilf, 50—his diplomatic
experience, 69 — his villa at PottendorfF, 78 — his great
wealth, 79
Etiquette, offences against, i., 328
-, singular, ii., 59

Fajal, Mademoiselle de, particulars relative to her marriage,

ii.,	133

Falkenstein, a visit to the castle of, i., 80
Falmouth packets, some account of, ii., 99 —society on board,
100

Family separation, i., 109
Fauxbourgs at Vienna, i., 51

Ferdinand VII., bullfight in the reign of, ii., 182 — inhabits

the Alcazar, 183
Ferraris, Count Zichy, marriage of his daughter to Prince

Metternich, i., 59
Ferrier, Sir Alexander, English consul at Rotterdam, i., 5
Finances and laws of Portugal, ii., 129
Financial difficulties of the Turks, ii., 27
Fiquelmont, General, his recall, i., 69
Firman to visit mosques, &c., i., 309
Fish at Constantinople, i., 324332

INDEX.

Fleet, a fairy one, ii., 5

Forbes, Dr,, i., 89, 270, 276; ii., 51

Fortifications at Corfu, ii., 44—at Cadiz, 207

France, General Croissard's plan for the invasion of, i., 72

Francfort, a splendid city, i., 34

Franchini, Madame, i., 272

Francis, Emperor, character of, i., 67, 90

French, war of the, in Africa, ii., 242

Furcht, village of, i., 37

Galata, wooden bridge at, i., 166—mountain of, 172
Galatea, Austrian steamer, i., 112—accommodation on board,
ib., 346

Galatz, Moldavian seaport of, i., 147 — the town described,

148—trade of, ib.—a ball at, 151—quarters at, 352
Gaming at Wisbaden, i., 31
Germany, inns in, i., 34 — posting in, 36
Ghirges, miserable town of, i., 131 — a night at, 132 — deso-
late aspect of, ib.

Ghorgeo, its distance from Bucharest, i., 134, 145
Gibraltar, voyage from Tanjier to, ii., 224 — attention of the
governor of, 225—grand review at, 227—the fortifications
at, 229—sea defences of, 231—works relative to, 232
— St. George's Hall at, ib.—delicious gardens at, 233—St.
Michael's Cave at, 234—compared with Cintra, ib. — ap-
pearance of the rock, 237
Gifts, costly, ii., 19
Gipseys, musical party of, i., 150

Giraffe mail-packet steamer to Rotterdam, i. 3 — motley as-
semblage on board, ib.

Giurgevo, station of, i., 350, 351

Golden Horn, channel so called, i., 166, 167, 182, 260 ; ii., 4
Gomez, extraordinary march of, ii., 185INDEX.

333

Gordon, Mr., politeness of, ii., 203 — particulars respecting

his family, 206
Grand vizier, visit to, i., 247—his personal appearance, 248
Greece, the king and queen of, ii., 60 — the present political

condition of, 70—government of, 71
Greek brigands, ii„ 53

- system of tuition, ii., 41

- tactics, ii., 65

Greeks, the English deceived in the, ii., 33
Grenada, farmers of, ii., 281 —roads in, 282 — some account
of the city, 283—the Alhambra, 284—the Court of Fishes,
287—the cathedral, 299
Guildford, Lord, university founded by, ii., 40
Gustavus Pacha, the seraskier, or commander-in-chief, i., 232
—interview with, 233—his military council, 235 — anec-
dotes of, 236—his policy, ib.—visit to his stables, 262—his
stud, 263

Haratch, or capitation tax, ii., 23

Hardeg, General, minister of war, i., 70

Harem at Constantinople,!., 188, 193, 265

Hash, the Moorish captain, at Tetuan, ii., 249, 257

Hay, Mr., representations of, ii., 221

Hellespont, coast along the, ii., 5

Henry, Prince of Orange, ii., 226-228, 230

Holland and Belgium, detestation between, i., 7

Horse-dealing, examples of, in Turkey, i., 264, 327

Horses, wretched, at a bullfight, ii., 176

Hort, Major, ii., 302

Hurricanes, violent, at Constantinople, i., 286; ii., 3

Ionian Islands, increased commerce of, ii., 39
—— steamer, ii., 51—a night on board, 55334

INDEX.

Jalburg, mansion of, i., 114
Janissaries, on the destruction of the, ii., 11
Joelson, Mr., marriage of his daughter to Prince Metternich,
i., 59

Johannisburg, chateau of Prince Metternich at, i., 25 — wine

of, 26, 58
Joinville, Prince de, i., 283
Journey, a novel one, ii., 303

Khosrew, Pacha, ii.. 18

Kollo wrath, the Austrian minister, i., 68

Kustendji, proposed canal to, i., 144

Ladies, their difficulty of travel at Pera, i., 168 —their litters

described, 176—appearance of, 257
Ladies, Spanish, dress of, ii., 188
Langenfels, sumptuous fare at, i., 37
Lawrence, Sir Thomas, picture by, i., 17
Lazaretto near Corfu, mode of life in the, ii., 37
Leopold, King, state of his army, i., 9—policy of, 10
Lesson, a moral one, i., 181
Lever, Dr., the physician, i., 12

Liege, new railroad to, i., 12 — country between this town

and Cologne, 18
Lisbon, conduct of the mission at, ii., Ill, 132 — lodgings
at, 112 — church of St. Vicente at, 115, 120 — street im-
provements at, 130,135—shops of, 131—the English chapel
at, 134—the municipal body at, 135—dangers of traversing
the town, 136
Litters of the Turkish ladies, i., 176

Lloyd's Austrian Steam Packet Company, exorbitant charges
of, ii., 62

Londonderry, Lady, requests to see the harem of ReschidINDEX.

335

Pacha, i., 231, 264—her account of her audience of the sultan,
277,331—her journey to the palace, 278—her departure, 285
—her court-dress, 332
Londonderry, the Marquis of, his departure for Rotterdam, i., 3
— reaches that city, 4 — proceeds to Antwerp, 8 — describes
the f£te there for the celebration of the second century of Ru-
bens, 9—his remarks on the policy of King Leopold, 10—his
stay at Brussels, 12 — proceeds by the new railroad to Liege,
ib.—account of the journey, 14—recollections of, on reaching
Aix-la-Chapelle, 17—journeys to Cologne, 18—lands at
Coblentz, 23 — describes the scenery of the Rhine, 24 — and
Prince Metternich's Schloss Johannisberg, 25 — arrives at
Mayence, 28 — and at Wisbaden, 29 — gives some account of
his stay there, 30 — visits the Duke of Nassau's palace at
Bieberach, 32 — passes through the imperial city of Francfort,
34—inspects the episcopal palace at Wurzbourg, 35—goes on
to Nuremburg, 36 — stops at Langenfels, 37 — refusal of the
King of Bavaria to grant him an audience, 39—correspondence
on the subject, 40, 41 —reaches Ratisbon, 45 — describes the
temple of Wahlhallen, 46—his steam voyage to Vienna, 49 —
his lodgings there, 50—his account of the city, 51—invitations
received by, 55—visits Lord Beauvale, ib.—dines with Count
Tatischef, 56—and with Prince Metternich, 57 — the prince's
reception of him, 58—his remarks on the Austrian ladies, 61—
on mismanagements in the Austrian government, 66—his ob-
servations on the Austrian army, 71—Dines with Prince Ester-
hazy at Pottendorff, 78—visits the castle of Falkenstein, 80 —
and Esterhazy, 81 —entertained by Count Zecheny, 82 — de-
scribes the splendours at Eisenstadt, 83—his return to Vienna,
85—his interview with the Emperor of Austria, 89—his official
summons from Lord Beauvale, 91—his conversations with
Prince Metternich, 93, 98—soiree given to, 97—on the theatres
and balls at Vienna, 101—sits for his portrait, 103—farewell336

INDEX.

letter received by, 104 — family separation of, 109 — oil the
Austrian Steam Navigation Company, 110 — his accommoda^
tions on board the Galatea, 112 — describes the banks of the
Danube, 114—and the appearance of Pesth, 115—transferred
to the Zrynii steamer, 116 — has a disagreeable voyage to
Drenkova, 118—his passage to Orsova, 120—on the construc-
tion of the Wallachian boats, 122—embarks at Skela Gladova
in the Pannonia, 124—his annoyances on board, 125—arrives
at Ghirges, 131—on the policy of Austria, 133, 138—and on
the navigation of the Danube, 136—on the views and proceed*
ings of Russia, 141—continues his voyage, 145—pleasant pro-
ject of, abandoned, 146—anchors at the Moldavian seaport of
Galatz, 147—reaches Breila, 148—kindly entertained by Majar
Skeletti, 149—receives a letter from the Prince of Moldavia,
152 — arrives at Sulina, 154—his passage through the Black
Sea, 155—his sensations on entering the Bosphorus, 156—de-
scribes the scenery, 158—approaches the " City of the Sultan,"
160 — night landing of, at Pera, 165 — enjoys a coup d'oeil of
Constantinople, 167—on the means of transport at, 168 — on
the mixed population, 169 — the streets, 170 — the traffic in
eatables, 171—the general cemetery, 172 — notices the dogs,
173, 287—the mosques and minarets, 174—the litters of the
Turkish ladies, 176 — the festival of the Ramazan, 177 — the
grand bazaars, 178 — the Turkish merchants, 180 — the se-
raglio, 182 — the sultan's palaces, 183 — his correspondence
with Lord Ponsonby on the subject of presentation to the
sultan, 187, 188, 189, 195, 196, 198, 200, 202 — and with
Mr. Percy Doyle, 193, 194, 198—his letters to Lord Palmer-
ston, 203, 208, 210, 213, 214—his observations on LordPon-
sonby's refusal to present him to the sultan, 215, 218—receives
a letter on the subject from a distinguished diplomatist, 223—
his kind reception by Reschid Pasha, 228 — visits Achmet
Pasha, 231 —his interview and conference with the seraskier,INDEX.

337

233—who introduces him to his military council, 234 — com-
pliment paid to, 238 — his remarks on the military system in
Turkey, 239—on the Turkish sailors, 244—his interview with
the grand vizier, 247 — receives intelligence of the war in
Syria, 249—on the conduct of the allies towards Turkey, 251
<—and on the power of Russia, 252 — illuminations during his
stay at Constantinople, 255—inspects two Egyptian regiments,
256—describes Turkish equipages, 258—on the beauty of the
Turkish women, ib.—goes over the seraskier's stables, 262 —
anecdote related by, of horse-dealing, 264—visits the environs,
269—invitation from the sultan to, 270—proceeds to the
Winter Palace, 271 —account of his interview, 273—his
speech to his majesty, 274—the sultan's reply to it, 276 — de-
scribes his sensations on taking a Turkish bath, 291 —visits
the slave market, 296—singular scene of barter witnessed by,
297—his remarks on slavery in Turkey, 298—visits Mah-
moud's tomb, 300—sails down the Bosphorus to Therapia,
302—his excursion to Scutari, 304—entertained by the Aus-
trian ambassador, 307—goes to the Arms'Bazaar, 308—his
opinion as to the plague, 309 — describes the mosque of St,
Sophia, 312—and other mosques, 314—the dancing dervishes,
316—on the society at Pera, 317—his conversations with Mr.
Cartwright, 318 — on life at Constantinople, 323 — his treaty
for a horse, 326—offends against etiquette, 328—his last days
at Constantinople, 335 — his report to Prince Metternich re-
lative to the navigation of the Danube, 341 — on the accom-
modation of passengers, 346—-enters the Bosphorus, 353 —
embarks for Smyrna, ii., 4 — his remarks on the Dardanelles,
5 — anecdote given by, of a professor of mathematics, 7 — on
the reforms introduced by Sultan Mahmoud, 8—among others,
his change in the national costume, 10—on the destruction of
the Janissaries, 11—on the condition of the Turkish peasantry,
13—and on the cultivation of the soil, 14—on recent changes

VOL. II.	Z338

INDEX.

in Turkish administration, 15—on the measures of the late
sultan, 16—and the abilities of Reschid Pasha, 17—on prodi-
gality in the state, 19 —on the errors of Reschid Pasha, 20,
28—the commercial system, 21—the Russian policy, 22—the
British embassy, 23—the French system, 24—on the financial
difficulties of Turkey, 27 — lands at Scio, 31 —describes the
island, 32 — reaches Milo, 33 — in quarantine at Corfu, 34—
gives some account of the mode of life in the lazarettos, 36—
his comfortless quarters at Corfu, 38—his tribute to the merits
of Sir H. Douglas, 40,42—on the Greek system of tuition, 41

—	on the fortifications at Corfu, 44—sails for Athens, 51—de-
tained at Patras, 52 — describes his stay there, 53 — lands at
Corinth, 55—visits the ruins at Athens, 57—presented to their
Grecian majesties, 59—entertained by them, 60—favour con-
ferred on, 61—review in honour of, 65—describes the appear-
ance of Athens, 67—goes over the palace, 68—his views as to
the position of Greece, 70 — his remarks on King Otho's go-
vernment, 71—his conversation with the king, 73—and with
the Prince Royal of Bavaria, 74 — receives a letter from Sir
E. Lyons, 75—embarks for the Piraeus, 79—arrives at Zante,
80—and at Malta, t&.—his notice of Zante, 81 —of its trade,
82—on society in that island, 83—on the climate, 84—its har-
bour, 85—its civil government, 86—proceeds to Palermo, 87
—and to Naples, 88—his feelings on hearing of the destruc-
tion of his residence at Wynyard, 89—returns to England, 90
—preface to his Spanish tour, 93—proposes to sail for Lisbon
in the Braganza steamer, 97—on yacht sailing, 98 — embarks
at Falmouth, 99 — his notice of the Falmouth packets, ib. —
the society on board, 100—strange scene described by, 102 —
again encounters bad weather, 103—suddenly alarmed, 104 —
arrives at Vigo, 106—enters theTagus, 107—strange contrast
observed by, 108—his remarks on the palace of Marialva, 109

—	politeness of Sir F. Ommaney to, 110, 113, 131 — on theINDEX.

339

mission at Lisbon, 111 —his quarters in that city, 112 — his
return visit to the Due de Terceira, 114—present at a grand
funeral ceremony, 115—gives some particulars relative to the
King and Queen of Portugal, 117,118—on the poverty of the
state, 119—on the political state of Portugal, 123 — the Mi-
guelite party, 125—the Chartists, 126—the Septembrists, 127
—middle course suggested by, 128—on the finances and laws,
129—goes on board the Donegal, 131—his anecdotes respect-
ing the Due de Palmella and his family, 132 — on improve-
ments in the Portuguese capital, 135 — on Don Pedro's new
laws, 136—visits Cintra, 137—the Cork convent, 138 — no-
tices Montserrat, 139 — his meeting with the Marchioness de
Lorival, 140—on the badness of Portuguese roads, 141 — in-
spects the palace of Mafra, 142—sails for Cadiz in the Tagus
steamer, 144—arrives in view of the city, 147—describes the
town, 148—and the variety of costume, 149—promenades and
streets, 150—goes on board the Trinculo, 151 —hospitably re-
ceived by Mr. Brakenbury, the British Consul, 152 — voyages
to Seville, 153 — his landing, 154 — enters the cathedral, 156
—on military movements in Spain, 157—impressions of, 158—
on abolishing the monasteries, 159—on a liberal system of policy,
161—on the career of Napoleon, 162 — describes a bull-fight,
167—the amateur, 168—the encierro, 169—the company, 170
the approach of the bulls, 172 — the bravery of the animals,
174—the sorry horses, 176 — the appearance of the bull, 177
— the banderilleros, 178 — the matador—179 — on ancient
bull-fights, 181—visits the Alcazar, 183 — the tobacco manu-
factory, 185—the church of St. John, 186, 192—his remarks
on the Spanish ladies, 188— on the shops in Seville, 191 —
goes over the nunnery of St. Agnes, 194 — on the condition
of nuns in Spain, 196 — describes the interior of a convent,
198—attends a public concert and ball, 200 — proposed expe-
dition to Tangier, 202—visits Xeres, 203—on the fortifications

z 2340

INDEX.

at Cadiz, 207 — weathers Cape Trafalgar, 208 — his yacht ex-
cursion to Tangier, 209—has a rough voyage, 210 — obliging
conduct of Mr. Drummond, the British consul to, 211 — his
first impressions on landing in Africa, 215—on the degeneracy
of the Moors, 216—-carried on shore at Tangier, 217 — visits
the Moorish market, 218—and an Arab encampment, 219 —
the Dutch consul's garden, 220—a Moorish village, 221—en-
tertained with a strange concert, 222 — describes an Arab en-
campment, 223—his voyage to Gibraltar, 224 — attentions of
Sir Alexander Woodford, 225—goes on board a Dutch frigate,
227—military honours paid to, 228—inspects the fortifications,
229—-his remarks on the sea-defences, 231—visits St. George's
Hall, 232 — and St. Michael's Cave, 234—his excursion to
Algesiras, 235 — and to Ceuta, 237 — his notice of Spanish
smugglers, 238—politeness of the Spanish governor to, 239
— gives some account of Ceuta, 240 — his remarks on the
French war in Africa, 242 — and on Abdel Kader, 243 — his
voyage to Tetuan, 247—lands there with difficulty, 249 — de-
scribes the place, 250 — and the English consul's family, 251
—the Moorish houses, 252 — present of the pacha to, 253 —
entertained by him, 254 —returns to Gibraltar, 257 — takes
final leave of the governor, 258—enjoys a delightful excursion
to Malaga, 259 — gives some particulars relative to the place,
260 — the English society there, 261—travelling difficulties
encountered by, 263 — reaches the village of El Colmenar,
264 — unpleasant predicament of, 265—describes the discom-
forts of a Spanish inn, 267 — finds a friend in the alcalde of
the village, 269 —his picture of a first night's bivouac, 270 —
continues his journey to Loxa, 276 —further travelling dis-
asters of, 277 — describes the interior of a peasant's cottage,
278—the consul's supper, 279—bears testimony to the civility
of the peasantry, 280 — his observations on the farmers of
Grenada, 281—on the wretched state of Spanish roads, 282—INDEX.

341

reaches the Moorish city of Grenada, 283—inspects the pa-
lace of the Alhambra, 284 — on Moorish architecture, 285,
288—describes the interior of the palace, 286 —the court of
fishes, 287—the court of lions, 289—the royal apartments,
290—on the Spanish climate, 292 — the mines, 293 — on
civil war in Spain, 294—visits the cathedral of Grenada, 299
— the convent of Cantuja, 300—departs for Motril, 301—
gives some particulars of the journey, 302—his disagreeable
quarters at Bezaen, 304—his accommodations at Motril, 305
—embarrassing situation of, 306 — his entry into the bay of
Carthagena, 307 — describes the city, 308 — his voyage to
Barcelona, 310 — encounters a hurricane, 311—safe arrival
of, 312—his description of the city, 313—ball given by Mr.
Annesly in honour of, 315—on the contest between Yaldez
and Cabrera, 316— on the state of parties in Spain, 317
—on Lord Clarendon's speech, 318 — voyages to Marseilles,
320 — resolves to return to England by way of Paris in con-
sequence of the illness of his son, 321
Longa, or library at Seville, public ball at, ii., 200
Lopez, Lady, particulars respecting, ii., 291 — entertainment

given by, 300
Lorival, Marchioness de, ii., 140
Louis, Admiral, ii., 80, 85
Louis Philippe, power of, i., 10—alluded to, 96
Loul6, Marquis of, ii., 109
Lover of fourscore, i., 99

Loxa, town of, arrival at, ii., 275—described, 276
Luxury, a disagreeable one, i., 295
Lynedoch, Lord, ii., 86

Lyon, Captain, i., 270,276 ; ii., 4, 31,51, 152, 202, 210, 267,
301

Lyons, Sir E„ letter to, ii., 52, 56, 57, 74 — his communica-
tion to the Marquis of Londonderry, 75342

INDEX.

Mafra, a visit to the palace of, ii., 142—its desolate condi-
tion, 143

Mahmoud Austrian steam-vessel, ii., 38
Mahmoud, Sultan, palace built by, i., 183 — on discipline in
his army, 235—his tomb, 300—filial remembrance of, 301
—alluded to, 334 ; ii., 6—his difficult position, 8—reforms
introduced by, 9, 15—his change in the fashion of dress, 10
—errors of, 11,16—new order of things on his decease, 17
Maitland, Sir Thomas, ii., 39

Malaga, delightful voyage to, ii., 259—the English consul at,
ib.—particulars respecting the city, 260—English society
at, 261—departure from, 262
Malines, curious scene at, i., 15

Malta, quarantine at, ii., 81, 83—society at, ib.—salubrity of,
84 — delicious oranges of, 85 — increased prosperity of,
ib. — its fine harbour, ib. — civil and military government
of, 86

Maria, Dona, legend relative to, ii., 194—her body em-
balmed, 198

Maria, Dona, the young Queen of Portugal, ii., 118
Marialva, palace of, at Belem, Ii., 109, 139, 140
Marienkiilf, Palace of Prince Esterhazy at, i. 50
Mark, Mr., the English Consul at Malaga, ii., 259, 277,
279, 303

Market, at Constantinople, i., 324
-Moorish, at Tangier, ii., 218

Marmont, Marshal, his opinion of the Turkish troops, i.,
239

Marriage, an extraordinary one, ii., 134—an early one, 206

Marseilles, voyage to, ii., 320

Matador, his duties at a bullfight, ii., 179

Mathematics, a professor of, ii., 7

Maxim, a wise one, i., 181INDEX.

343

Mayence, steamer to, i., 28 — military importance of, ib.—

Cornmills near, 29
Mehemet Ali, question respecting, i., 249—policy of, 250
Menendez, the British Consul at Vigo, ii., 106
Merchants, Turkish, i., 180
Merlin, schooner, off Cadiz, ii., 152
Mersey, Count, his retirement, i., 101

Metternich, Prince, his chateau at Johannisberg, i., 25 — de-
lightful summer residence of, 57 -—personal appearance of,
58—his brilliant conversation, 59—his family, ib.—high re-
putation of, 68—his energy, 70—his adroitness, 90—his kind
reception of Lord Londonderry, 92—his residence at Vienna,
ib.— his remarks on the change of system in our foreign
policy, 93 — and on Spanish affairs, 94—his opinions of our
late ministry, ib. — foundation of his fame, 97—his conver-
sation with the Chevalier von Gentz, 99 — his flattering
letter to Lord Londonderry, 104—counsels of, 133—report
to, on the navigation of the Danube, 341
Metternich, Princess, soiree given by, i., 97—causes portraits
to be made of distinguished strangers, 102—her collection,
103—her beautiful boudoir, ib.

Miguelite party in Portugal, ii., 125
Milo, arrival in the bay of, ii. 33
Mines in Spain, ii., 293
Ministry, British, conduct of, i., 95, 137
Mir, General, letters to, ii., 262, 306
Modena, Duchess of, mourning for, i., 91
Moldavia, capital of, i., 134

-and Wallachia, i., 141 —free ports of, 148 — quaran-
tine in, 151

Monasteries, abolishment of, in Spain, ii., 159
Montagu, Lady M. W., assertion of, verified, i., 53—her de-
scription of the Austrian ladies, 60 — her account of the344

INDEX,

gipsies, 150—Achmet Bey's reply to, 181—her description
of the arabas, 259—of the mosque of St. Sophia, 311 —
peculiarity in her work, ib.—remark of, 314
Montserrat Palace, a visit to, ii., 139
Moore, Sir J., army of, ii., 109
Moorish concert, ii., 222

--village, visit to a, ii., 221

Moors, degeneracy of the, ii., 216

Mosques and minarets at Constantinople, i., 174-5, 312, 314
Motril, departure for, ii., 301—the inn at, 305
Murillo, fine paintings by, ii., 186, 192
Murray, Colonel, activity of, i., 76
Murray, Mr., his hand-books to the Rhine, i., G

Napier, Mr., his journey to Constantinople, h, 146

Naples, excursion to, ii., 88

Napoleon, singular career of, ii,, 162

Nassau, Duke of, his palace at Bieberach, i., 27, 32

Navarino, conduct of the Turkish sailors at, i., 244

Negress, age of a, i., 297

Neudorf, arrival at, i., 49

Nugent, Lord, ii., 40

Nuns, their condition in Spain, ii. 196

Nuremburg, journey to, i., 36, 37

O'Daly, Mr., of Carthagena, ii., 309

Ommaney, Admiral Sir F., courtesy of, ii., 110, 113, 131

O'Neil, Dr., outrage on his family, ii., 136

Oporto, a journey to, ii., 107

Oranges, delicious, at Malta, ii,, 85

Orsova, passage to, i., 120, 349 —some account of the town,

121—filthy, mixed population, ib.

Otho, King, etiquette at the court of, ii., 59—dinner given by.INDEX.

345

60—his great condescension, 61—reviews his troops, 65 —
new palace of, 68 — chapels attached to it, ib. — its im-
mense cost, 69—remarks on his government, 71 —general
dissatisfaction given by, 72—his embarrassing position, 73
—justifies himself, 74—his steamer, 79

Pacha of Tetuan, visit to, ii., 253—palace of, 254—entertain-
ment given by, 255—his avarice, 256
Pacha, or great man, in Turkey, i., 169
Palermo, excursion to, ii., 86—fine appearance of the city, 87

—said to resemble Dublin, ib.—trade at, ib.

Palmella, the Due de, ii., 132—his son's marriage, 133
Palmerston, Lord, i., 184, 202 — the Marquis of London-
derry's correspondence with, 203, 208, 210, 213, 214
Pannonia, Austrian steamer, i., 124—crowded state of the vessel,
125—small berths, ib.—strange scene on deck, 126—into-
lerable annoyances, ib.—bad regulations, 127—stranded on a
sand-bank, ib.—want of accommodation in, 128—fresh pro-
visions taken on board, 145—allusions to, 329, 349
Pappenheim, General, camp commanded by, i., 38
Pardoe, Miss, her " Gity of the Sultan" alluded to, i., 258, 286,

307, 315, 325
Parsons, Major, his duties at Zante, ii., 82
Patras, arrival at, ii., 52 — the consular department at, 53—

wretched inns at, 54—the gulf of, 79
Paumgarten, Count, letter of, i., 40—letter of Lord London-
derry to, 41
Peasantry, Spanish, condition of, ii,, 280
Peasantryj Turkish, state of, ii., 13

Pedro, Don, funeral ceremony on the anniversary of his death,

ii., 115, 120—new laws of, 136
Peninsular army, Etat-Major of, i., 76

Pera, arrival at, i., 165 — some account of the city, ib.—346

INDEX.

general cemetery at, 172, 184—descent from to the Winter
Palace, 270—society at, 317
Pesth, tlie capital of Hungary, arrival at, i., 114—the Hotel de
la Reine d'Angleterre, 114, 346—some account of the city,
115—club-house at, 116—shops at, ib.

Peter the Cruel, story relative to, ii., 194
Phillippoville, Lieutenant-Colonel, i., 105—mission of, 117
Plague at Constantinople, i., 309 : ii., 15
Ponsonby, Lord, request made to, i., 184—the Marquis of Lon-
donderry's correspondence with, 187, 188,189,193,195,196,
198, 200, 202 — observations on his refusal to present the
Marquis of Londonderry to the Sultan, 215—alluded to, ii., 43
Portugal, the King of, ii., 117 —the young queen of, 118 —
poverty of the state, 119—political condition of, 123—state
of parties in, 124—the Miguelites, 125—the Chartist party
unpopular in, 126—the Septembrists, 127—middle course
of policy in, recommended, 128—finances and laws of,
129—bad roads in, 141
Portuguese carriages, state of, ii., 116
Pottendorff, villa of Prince Esterhazy at, i., 78
Prater, at Vienna, i., 54

Presburg, arrival at, i., 112—bridge of boats, at, 114
Priests and Friars in Spain, ii., 160, 161.

Probet, Count, the Austrian ambassador, ii., 67
Purser, disappearance of a, ii., 53

Quarantine, strict, in Moldavia and Wallachia, i., 151 —
at Malta, ii., 81, 83

--, station, near Corfu, ii., 35—arrangements at,

described, 36
Quemadero, at Seville, ii., 198

Radiski, Marshal, i., 71INDEX.

347

Railroads abroad, their inferiority, i., 12
Railway carriages, i., 13—company in, 14
Ramazan, festival of, at Constantinople, i, 177, 313, 330
Rapids, dangerous, on the Danube, i., 123
Ratisbon, arrival at, i., 45 — interesting objects at, ib.—the
cathedral, ib.— the king's temple of Wahlhallen, 46 — cele-
brity of, 47 —journey from, to Vienna, ib, — steam-boats
from, to Lintz, 48
Razumowski, Prince, palace built by, i., 51
Reforms, monarchical, remarks on, ii., 9
Religion, excitement of, i., 316
Repast, a sickening one, i., 150
Reputation, at Vienna, i., 61

Reschid Pacha, alluded to, i., 199, 200, 205, 216, 247—ap-
pointment of, 227 —interview of Lord Londonderry with,
228 — request made to, 231—harem of, 231, 264—appear-
ance of, 271—courtesy of, 274, 278, 279, 280, 285—alluded
to, 283, 331—his ministerial talents, ii., 17—errors of his
new system, 20—his leaning towards French institutions, 21,
24—ignorant of the English language, 24—oversights of, 28
Rhine, steam-boats on the, i., 5, 23—guides to the, 24—sce-
nery of the, ib.—compared with that of the Danube, 48
Ring, bargaining for one, i., 335
Roads, bad, in Portugal, ii., 141—in Spain, 280
Robinson, Mr., the Vice-Consul, ii., 53
Rock, large masses of, ii., 32
RomanzofF, Russians under, i. 243

Rotterdam, steam-packet to, i., 3—vessels at, 5—the Hotel de
Pays Bas, at, ib. — great trade at, 7 — inferiority of pro-
fessional men at, ib.

Rubens, f4te in celebration of, i., 8

Russia, Emperor of, presents from, i., 33—dispositions of, 134
—power of, 139—trade of, 140—interference of, 252348

INDEX.

Russian Alliances, i., 33, 138

-Policy, ii., 22

-Ship, ii., 56—comforts in, ib.

Russians, their losses, at Adrianople, i. 241

Sailors, Turkish, i., 244

St. Agnes, nunnery of, at Seville, ii., 193—legend relative to,
194—the lady abbess of, 195—the nuns of, 197—its inte-
rior described, 198
St. George's Hall, at Gibraltar, ii., 232

St. Jean d'Acre, capture of, i., 248 — rejoicings at Constanti-
nople on the occasion, 255
St. Michael's Cave, at Gibraltar, ii., 234
St. Sophia, mosque of, at Constantinople, i., 174,176—visited
by the author, 311—its interior described, 312 —numerous
visitors during the Ramazan, 313
St. Vicente, church of, at Lisbon, ii., 115, 120
Sand-banks, on the Danube, i., 347, 350
Scene, a strange one, ii., 101

Scio, dreadful desolation at, ii., 31—its charming situation, 32

—singular position of the towns, ib.

Scutari, town of, i., 183 — excursion to, 304 — magnificent

prospect from, ib.

Sebastiani, General, visit of, ii, 7—anecdote of, ib.

Selim, Sultan, reforms of, ii., 7
Septembrists, in Portugal, ii., 127
Seraglio, palace of, at Constantinople, i., 182
Seraglio Point, at Constantinople, i., 166
Seraskier Platz, at Constantinople, i., 256, 262, 308
Seripervas, steamer, i., 285—wrecked, 286
Servia, on the possession of, i., 133
Sestos and Abydos, castles of, ii., 5

Seville, voyage to, ii., 153 — landing at, described, 154 —theINDEX.

349

Christian promenade at, 155—a visit to the cathedral of, 156,
192 — description of a bullfight at, 167 — the Alcazar at,
183—tobacco manufactory at, 185—church of St. John at,
186—the ladies at, 188—the shops at, 191—nunnery of
St. Agnes at, 193—the Quemadero at, 199—the longa, or
library, 200—public concert and ball at, ib.

Sherry, fine kinds of, ii., 204
Shops, at Constantinople, i., 178
Sight-Seers, rudeness of, i., 310

Skela Gladova, some account of, i., 124, 145, 346, 349, 350
Skeletti, Major, his house at Galatz, i., 147—his kindness and
hospitality, 149—his excellent and gifted wife, 150—adieu
to, 151

Slade, Mr. travels of, alluded to, i., 132, 135, 144, 253, 317;

ii., 6, 11, 13, 22, 33
Slavery in Turkey, i. 298

Slave Market, at Constantinople, described, i., 296
Smith, Sir C., ii., 228
Smoking, in Turkey, i., 229

Smuggling, prevention of, i., 4—encouragement of, ii., 22—

near Gibraltar, 237
Smyrna, voyage to, ii.f 31
Society at Pera, i., 317
Soldier, occupation of the, i., 240
Soult, Marshal, anecdote of, ii., 193—alluded to, 272
Sovereigns, harsh measures of, i., 39

Spain, Prince Metternich's remarks on the affairs of, i., 94—
on the military movements in, ii., 157 — political affairs of,
159, 317—liberal system in, i., 161—the nuns in, 196 —
smugglers in, 238—travelling in, 257, 262—roads in, 282
—climate of, 292—mines in, 293—civil war in, 294
Spectacle, a revolting one, ii., 180
Stable, a Turkish one described, i., 326
Standish, Mr., death of, ii., 188—alluded to, 201350

INDEX.

Staut, Mr., hospitality of, i., 131, 351
Steam-boat society, ii., 100

-navigation, superiority of, ii., 83

Steam-boats, on the Rhine, i., 5, 23
Stewart, General Lord Charles, i., 76

Stopford, Sir R., takes St. Jean d' Acre, i., 249—fleet under, ii.,
144

Stoudza, M., his letter to Lord Londonderry, i., 152
Streets, at Constantinople, described, i., 170
Stuart, M'Kenzie, succeeds Sir Howard Douglas, ii., 43
Sturmer, Baron, the Austrian Ambassador, courtesy of, 307,
325, ii., 4

Sulina, taken possession of, by the Russians, i., 154 — marine

commissioner at, ib.

Sussex, Duke of, his letter to Espartero, i., 95
Syra, the Lazaretto at, ii., 37

Tactics, French system of, i., 240, 242
Tagus, a strange contrast in the, ii., 108

-steamer, arrives at Lisbon, ii., 144—accommodations

in, ib.

Tatischef, Count, select dinner given by, i., 56
Tangier, proposed expedition to, ii., 202—rough voyage to, 210
— politeness of the British consul at, ib.—appearance of the
bay of, 211 — abandoned by Charles the Second, 212 —the
Mole at, 217 — the Moors at, ib. — market at, 218 — Arab
encampment at, 219—consular gardens at, 220—wild Arabs
at, 223—voyage from, to Gibraltar, 224
Terceira, Duke of, his kindness, ii., 113—a return visit to, 114

—invitation from, 131, 134—adieu to, 144
Tetuan, entry into the bay of, ii., 247 — scenery near, 248 —
some account of the place, ib. — difficult landing at, 249 —
wretched state of, 250 — the British consul at, 251 —Moor-
ish houses at, 252—visit to the pacha of, 253INDEX.

351

Thalberg, the pianist, i., 97
Thames, scenery of the, i., 4
Theatres at Vienna, i., 65

Therapia, Lord Ponsonby's residence at, i., 206—excursion to,
302 — ambassadorial quarters at, 303 *— supineness of the
British embassy at, ii., 23
Tobacco-manufactory at Seville, ii., 185
Townshend, Captain, of the Tyne frigate, ii., 34
Trafalgar, Cape, scenery of, ii., 208
Travelling disasters, ii., 277
Trinculo, brig of war, at Cadiz, ii., 151
Tscheragan Palace, at Constantinople, i., 284
Tuition, excellent system of, ii., 41

Turkey, misgovernment of, i., 141 —monopoly of, 148 — pre-
sent power of, 251 — slavery in, 298 — change in the condi-
tion of, ii., 6—-want of the means of internal communication
in, 13—neglected state of agriculture in, 14—recent reforms
in, 15—official employments in, 18—abuses and corruptions
in the government of, 26—financial difficulties of, 27
Turkish bath described, i., 291 — attendants at, 292 — unplea-
sant sensation in, 293
Turkish bargains, i., 335

-beauty, i., 151

-conference, i., 229

--costume, i., 233

-entertainments, i., 230, 248

-equipages, i., 258

-etiquette, i., 328

-harems, i., 265

-ladies, i., 257

-merchants, dealings of, i., 180

-military band, i., 256

-ministry, policy of, i., 318352

INDEX.

Turkish sailors, i., 244
-stable, i., 326

-troops, state of discipline among the, i., 239

Tyne frigate at Corfu, ii., 34

Ulemas, authority of the, ii., 27

United States, example of, followed, ii., 25

Valdez, action of with Cabrera, ii., 316
Valid6, Sultana, the mother of Mahmoud, i., 298
Varna, projected journey to, i., 145, 146,352 — plague at,
ib.

Viands at Constantinople, i., 323
Victoria, Queen, alluded to, i., 95
Vido, island of, ii., 44, 45

Vigo, arrival of the JBraganza at, ii., 106 — the British consul
at, ib.

Vienna, journey from Ratisbon to, i., 47, 49 —lodgings at, 50
—picture of the city, 5—the fauxbourgs, ib. — architectural
improvements at, 52 — assertion of Lady M. W. Montagu
relative to, 53 — commercial aspect of the place, ib.— the
Prater, 54—a dinner at Lord Beauvale's at, 55—and at Count
Tatischef's, 56 — at Prince Metternich's, 57 — the beau-
monde of, 60 — the ladies of, 61—reputation at, ib.—mo-
rality at, 62 — theatres at, 65, 101 —public balls at, ib,—
routine of life at, 102
Village, Moorish, near Tangier, ii., 221
Villa Lobez, governor-general of Seville, ii., 201
Von Gentz, Chevalier, his celebrity; i., 98—his singular death,
99—his attachment to Fanny Ellsler, ib. — conversation of
Prince Metternich with, ib. — his death, 100— sentimental
letters of, ib.

Voyage, a disagreeable one, i., 118INDEX,

353

Waggons in Turkey, i., 259

Wahlhallen, the king's temple at, i., 45 —described, 46—its
purposes, 47

Walden, Lord Howard de, ii., 110—despatches of, 124
Walker, Admiral, news brought by, i., 248 — particulars re-
lative to, ib.—his wife alluded to, 278, 284, 331, 332
Wallachian boats, rude construction of, i., 122
Walmoden, General, i„ 71
Watering-places, fashionable, in Austria, i., 54
Weather, stormy, ii., 103, 106, 248, 256, 311, 312
Wellington, Duke of, estate of, in Spain, ii., 280
William IV. alluded to, i., 94

Williams, Mr., the vice-consul at Seville, ii., 183 — his col-
lection of pictures, 188, 201
Wilton, Lord, meetings with, ii., 209, 237, 257, 260, 301,
306

Wine, prohibition of, i., 181 —unusually cheap, ii., 82—fine

kinds of, 204—on colouring, 205
Winter palace at Constantinople, visit to the, i., 270 — its
furniture described, 272 — Lady Londonderry's journey to
the, 178—the interior, 281—a trap-door in, 282

Wisbaden, town of, i., 19 — the baths at, ib__the assembly

room at, 30—fine buildings at, ib.—gaming at, 31
Women at Constantinople, i., 170 — beauty of the, 260 — cos-
metics used by, 261
Woodford, Sir Alexander, Governor of Gibraltar, ii., 225, 227,
234, 258

Woronzow, Count, Governor-General of South Russia, i., 56

—sits for his portrait, 103
Woronzow, Countess, i., 332, 333

Wurzbourg, bad accommodation at, i., 35—splendid episcopal

palace at, ib.

Wynyard Park, destroyed by fire, ii., 89

VOL. II.	A A354

INDEX.

Xarifa yacht arrives at Cadiz, ii., 209—alluded to, 237, 257,
262, 301, 306, 310, 320

Xeres, a visit to, ii, 202 — house of Mr. Gordon at, 203 —
wines of, 204

Yacht sailing, remarks on, ii., 98

Zante, island of, embarkation for, ii., 79 — arrival at, 80 —
beautiful scenery of, 81 —earthquake in, ib.—its trade in
currants, 82

Zecheny, Count, particulars respecting, i., 82 — hospitality of,
83 —patriotic project of, 110—his liberality, 111 —and his
good taste, 115 — club-house established by, 116 — public
spirit of, 343

Zichy family, i., 114

Zrynii, Austrian steamer, i., 116 — accommodation on board,
ib.— passengers, 117 — disagreeable voyage in, 118]—runs
on a sand-bank, 119, 346—civility of the captain, 120

|pfrr>

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WORKS WHICH HAVE ALREADY APPEARED IN THE
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captain marryat'l

sir e. l. bulwer s pelham.
sir e. l. bulwer's disowned.
sir e. l. bulwer's devereux.
mr. ward's tremaine.
mr. smith's brambletye

house.

mr. smith's zillah.
mr. lister's granby.

lady morgan's 0'd0nnelt
lady morgan's florence ma-
carthy.

frank
mildmay.

mr. hook's sayings and

doings (First Series.)
mr. hook's sayings and

doings (Second Series.)
mr. hook's sayings and

doings (Third Series.)
mr. james's richelieu.

mr. gleig's chelsea pen-
sioners.This book is a preservation facsimile produced for
the University of Illinois, Urbana-Champaign.
It is made in compliance with copyright law
and produced on acid-free archival

60# book weight paper
which meets the requirements of
ANSI/NISO Z39.48-1992 (permanence of paper).

Preservation facsimile printing and binding
by

Northern Micrographics
Brookhaven Bindery
La Crosse, Wisconsin
2014