AN HISTORICAL & DESCRIPTIVE ACCOUNT NAWORTH CASTLE, AND ❖ * WITH A LIFE OF LORD WILLIAM HOWARD, AND AN ACCOUNT OF THE DESTRUCTION OF NAWORTH CASTLE, BY FIRE, MAY 18th, 1844. ^ecottfc iStrttton, foitfj 13tigrabmg& CARLISLE : PUBLISHED BY I. FLETCHER WHITRIDGE, AND SOLD BY ALL BOOKSELLERS. 1844.ADVERTISEMENT. The recent destruction by fire of Naworth Castle, having invested it with a peculiar interest, the Publisher has been induced to bring out in a different form, a new Edition of a little work which appeared about five years since, under the auspices of his predecessor. Considerable additions will be found both in the his- torical and biographical department; and the ample record of the melancholy circumstances connected with the destruction of the noble baronial castle, will, he trusts, be found interesting to all who may value a memorial of its former greatness and chivalric as- sociations. For a considerable part of the narrative of the fire, the Publisher is indebted to the interesting report which appeared in the Carlisle Journal of May 25. He would also express his obligations to the Rev. Percy Strutt, formerly of Carlisle, for the descrip- tion of Lanercost Priory. PAGfi. Lines to a Jasmine Tree in the Court of the Castle, by the Viscount Morpeth ....................... vi Account of the Fire, &c..............................vii Presentation of Address to Lord Morpeth................xiv Historical Account of the Castle.........................1 Description of the Castle, as it existed before the Fire . 17 Lines on the Castle, by the late Earl of Carlisle ... 34 Life of Lord William Howard, “the Belted Will” of Romance........................................... .36 Historical Account of Lanercost Priory..................55 Description of the Remains of Lanercost Priory ... 66Co a SJagmino Cm, lit tffe Court of Natoortt) Caotlr. BY THE VISCOUNT MORPETH. My slight and slender Jasmine Tree, That bloomest on my border tower, Thou art more dearly loved by me, Than all the wreaths of fairy bower; I ask not, while I near thee dwell, Arabia’s spice, or Syria’s rose, Thy light festoons more sweetly smell, Thy virgin white more freshly glows. My mild and winsome Jasmine Tree, That climbest up the dark grey wall, Thy tiny flowrets seem in glee, Like silver spray-drops down to fall; Say, did they from their leaves thus peep, When mailed moss-troopers rode the hill ? When helmed warders paced the keep, And bugles blew for Belted Will ? My free and feathery Jasmine Tree, Within the fragrance of thy breath, Yon dungeon grated to its key, And the chained captive pined for death. On border fray, on feudal crime, I dream not while I gaze on thee: The chieftains of that stem old time Could ne’er have loved a Jasmine Tree.Account of tf>e dfive. The Fire, of which a brief account is now given, took place on Saturday, May 18th, 1844. Its origin cannot he distinctly ascertained ; though, among the various surmises afloat, the most probable appears to he, that it arose from the ignition of some soot in the flue of the Porter’s Lodge, in which a beam was found to have rested. When the fire was thus com- municated to the beam, it would probably continue smoking for some time, ere it met with a current of air, when it would speedily hurst into a flame. The absence of cross-walls to cut off communication be- tween the various apartments, and the immense quantity of wood in all parts of the building, na- turally facilitated the progress of the devouring ele- ment; and it was not until the flames had‘reached the northern wing, that any obstacle was presented to their fury. At the time of the fire, the only persons resident in the castle were the steward, John Ramshay, Esq , three female servants, and a groom. Mr. Ramshay had left home in the course of the forenoon on busi- ness, when everything appeared to be in its usual state. In the course of the afternoon (between two and three o’clock) two hawkers were at the castle, exhibiting their wares; the servants were wvith them a 2Vlll ACCOUNT OF THE FIRE. in the courtyard, but there were at that time no signs of fire discernible. About four o’clock, when the female servants were at tea in the kitchen, a noise was heard which induced them to go the door, when they saw smoke issuing from the window above the arched entrance, and presently afterwards a light or flame from the chapel window. The alarm, so far as they had power, was instantly given; and persons were dis£>atched to Brampton and Kirkhouse, to obtain all available aid. In an incredibly short space of time, flames were seen spreading in the chapel, and its curiously-painted ceiling was observed to fall in ; and soon afterwards the flames were found pursuing their destructive course with fearful rapidity, right and left of the arched en- trance. The females, with that courage, activity, and resolution, which were the ancient characteristics of the sex on the border,—"qualities which, centuries before, had been so olten displayed on the same spot, amidst* the din of war and the turmoil of midnight surprize, exerted themselves with great effect, in re- moving such valuables as they could reach, when they saw that to stop the progress of the fire was beyond their power; and they succeded in saving a ..great deal of property. Removed as they were at a dis- tance from any other house, whence succour could be obtained, and the fire spreading with a rapidity truly awful, their position was at once critical and most trying. The groom, who had gone to Brampton, met Mi\ACCOUNT or THE EIRE, . ■ IX Ramsliay there, and by him was sent off to the Mil- ton station to meet the railway train on its way to Carlisle, and send for the fire engines. This errand was fortunately accomplished just in time; and at half-past five o’clock the messenger arrived by the train at Carlisle, ordered a special train to he in read- iness, and obtained the two fire engines belonging to the Corporation, In less than half an hour, the engines were got out, conveyed to the railway station (a dis- tance of a mile) placed upon trucks, and were on their way to Naworth, under the direction of two Police Officers. They were ‘accompanied by other officers, &c., and a number of persons who volunteered their services. In another half hour, the engines were at Naworth; hut quick as had been their move- ments, they arrived too late to save the castle from destruction. Whilst this was going on, Mr. Ramsliay, Mr. Garrick (the law agent of the Earl of Carlisle), Mr. Lee, and Mr. Thompson of Kirkhouse arrived ; and soon afterwards they were followed by a crowd of persons from Brampton and the surrounding neigh- bourhood. With great exertion, several boxes con- taining the deeds of the property of the barony, the principal furniture, and a part of the old tapestry were saved, as were also the pictures in some of the rooms. By this time, the flames were running along the picture gallery, and rapidly approaching the East tower, and those who were endeavouring to save relics were obliged to fly to save their own lives. “ Belted a 3X ACCOUNT OF THE FIRE. Will’s” armour, and some of the other coats of mail in the great hall, were got out in safety. When the fire engines arrived, so quickly had the fire spread, and so destructive had been its course, that the roof had almost entirely fallen in; and it was blazing in nearly every room on the three sides of the quadrangle ! A great crowd of persons had by this time collected, all anxious to render assistance; hut there was no organization; and, worse than all, water was scarce, or at least most difficult of access. The only supply was from a small rivulet at the foot of a very steep hill on the north side of the castle. This had been dammed up as far as possible. After a little trouble, lines of men were formed down the sides of the declivity, and buckets of water passed fraga one hand to another; but still the quantity was inadequate for keeping both engines at play. It was then suggested to lower one of the engines into the bed of the rivulet, to supply the other with water. The descent is almost perpendicular, and the engine nearly a ton weight, and many dreaded to try the desperate experiment. The word was given, however, that it must be done, and ropes having been procured, down the engine went, guided by a few bold and resolute men, who succeeded, though not without much peril, in placing it in a position to work effec- tively. This, and the placing of the hose, necessarily occupied some time, and the flames gathering strength every moment, were now raging uncontrolled through nearly the whole building, except the partACCOUNT OF THE FIRE. XI occupied by the steward. One engine being now plentifully supplied by the other, an effort was made to save “ Belted Will’s tower,” as it was seen that the fire had not yet reached his bed-room, library, &c. This effort, in the end, proved successful—the flames were arrested just as they had begun to penetrate that part. At this period, the scene in the inner court yard was at once terrific and sublime— “ For a sheet of flame from the turret high Waved like a blood-flag on the sky.” From every window flames were issuing ; whilst the interior of each room showed like some huge furnace of molten lead. The flames did not burst up in swirling eddies such as are seen when light and fragile materials are on fire, but the huge oak timber burned away with a steady intense brightness that seemed to set all attempt at subjection at defiance. “ And flashing armour frequent broke From eddying whirls of sable smoke, Where upon tower and turret head The seething pitch and molten lead Reek’d like a witch’s caldron red.” On the top of the battlements were seen men black- ened and begrimed, throwing down huge pieces of timber and fragments of stone, endeavouring to cut off the communication between that part which had hitherto escaped, and the rapidly approaching ene- my; then the crackling of burning timber, and the noise of falling beams, intermixed with the hoarse and discordant shouts of men and women in the courtACCOUNT OF THE FIRE. xii yard—combined to form a scene of terrific excite- ment. The heat in the court-yard was intense, and this together with the smoke of the burning timber, rendered it a matter of some difficulty to remain in the place for any length of time. The arched passage between the outer and inner court-yards, had, from its intense heat, been for some time impassable, and at length its roof, which was found to be of wood and plaster, and not of brick, as had been supposed, gave way, and for a few minutes stopped the operation of the engine, by injuring the hose which was laid through the passage. This, how- ever, was speedily repaired; but the falling in of the roof at firsj created some alarm amongst the crowd lest the outer walls should also give way. Having checked the flames in the East tower, at- tention was next directed to secure the steward’s house from the fire, and this was happily effected. Still the fire continued to burn intensely till about one o’clock on Sunday morning, when it was so far subdued as to relieve those about from anxiety as to its further progress ; and from this period it gradually sank—as much from the want of materials, as from the effect of the water thrown upon it. The engine, however, continued to play at intervals till near noon on Sunday. Along the whole interior of the three sides of the quadrangle thus destroyed, there does not appear to have been a single thorough partition-wall; and the principal part being of wood, dry as exposure to theACCOUNT or THE EIRE. Xlll air for centuries could make it, there was no obstacle to the progress of the fire, which had thus a free and uninterrupted range through the building, and which at once accounts for the rapidity of its progress, and for the completeness with which the work of destruc- tion was accomplished. From floor to rafters all is gone, except a few charred timbers ; and there remain of the once proud castle of Naworth, the stronghold of the most powerful of the barons “ who came over with the Conqueror,” the seat of feudal splendour, feudal grandeur, and feudal tyranny,—of the last perfect specimen of the residences of the Border Chiefs,—the pride of tne North—hut the bare and blackened walls,—exposed in all their naked defor- mity of rude masonry and unskilful power. The “ lowering strength of Naworth,” which Sir Walter Scott tells us showed the power of the Dacres,” is now reduced to utter nakedness. It is, perhaps, worthy of remark, that the ivy which clustered so thickly upon the walls, remained almost uninjured ; and the “ slight and slender jasmine tree,” at the door of the hall, which Lord Morpeth has celebrated in verse,* was unscathed by the fire. * See page vi,'^mentation &i Siftw# to/'Uotir Immediately on receiving intelligence of the de- struction of Naworth Castle, the Viscount Morpeth hastened to the scene of desolation and ruin, and spent nearly a fortnight in Brampton and the neigh- bourhood, when by his amiability of disposition, and his usual urbanity of manner, he won the golden opinions of all classes of society. During his Lord- ship’s stay in Brampton, it was determined to hold a Public Meeting to present to him an address of condolence on the destruction of the baronial castle of his ancestors. The Meeting accordingly took place on the afternoon of Wednesday, May 29th, in the National ■School-room, Brampton. Shortly after the hour appointed for the meeting, Lord Morpeth entered the room, and was wel- comed by the cheers of the company, among whom were several of the leading gentry of the town and neighbourhood. On the motion of Thomas Ramshay, Esq., seconded by Mr. Gill of Cumrew, William Ponsonby Johnson, Esq. of Walton House, was called to the chair. After a short speech, the chairman called upon Mr. Benson to read the AddressPRESENTATION OE ADDRESS. XV which it had been agreed to present to Lord Morpeth. The Rev. 0. Benson, of Brampton* then read jjthe following Address, and presented it to his Lordship, amid the acciammation of the meeting :— TO THE RIGHT HON. LORD VISCOUNT MORPETH. May it please your Lordship, We, the inhabitants of the town of Brampton and barony of Gilsland, in public meeting assembled, beg leave most respectfully to address your Lordship with sentiments of the profoundest sympathy, for the un- fortunate and distressing circumstances under which your visit to this district has been made. Deploring as we do the calamitous destruction by fire of the home of your celebrated ancestors, your own and your illustrious father’s much-loved Border Tower* and being painfully interested as men. individually, and deeply affected by what all consider as a great public loss, we should be doing injustice to our own feelings were we not to render the present op- portunity available for making known to your Lord- ship, and through you to your aged and much honoured father, together with all the other members of your truly noble house, how much and how deeply we sympathise with you, and with them, under this sad and irreparable deprivation. And we humbly hope that your Lordship will be pleased to receive this address of condolence as the sincere and heart- felt offering of men who are keenly sensitive of anyXV] PRESENTATION OF ADDRESS. occurrence, public or private, which may affect the weal or woe of any member of your family. While, however, we cannot but mourn over the desolation which now sits upon the hearth and reigns in the halls of Naworth, we have still some cause of gratula- tion in the fact that its walls, its towers, and its battlements, are still standing, and in a great measure unimpaired—the ivy still clings almost unscathed with unflinching pertinacity to the time-honoured and fire-stricken fabric which it has adorned for ages, and the slight and slender jasmine tree which has been hallowed by your Lordship’s own muse is still flou- rishing there in all its loveliness and beauty. We do therefore hope, although it is impossible for the act or power of man to restore what has been de- stroyed, yet that such renovation may be effected as will protect all that remains from further dilapidation ; and that its interior may again be made fit for the occasional residence of your Lordship’s family, so that we may not, in addition to the calamity we now sorrow over, have the further mortification of being deprived of your Lordship’s annual visits to this neighbourhood, for we must not hesitate to avow that the fine old castle, with all its spirit-stirring associations, has been linked to our hearts by ties of a stronger and deeper description than could be generated by any assemblage or combination of the reliques of a by-gone age;—and these are the high and unsullied purity and extensive usefulness of your Lordship’s public and private life. We have noticedPRESENTATION OP ADDRESS. XVII with feelings of pleasure and gratitude the judicious encouragement and liberal support you have given to our educational establishments in particular, and the deep interest manifested by your Lordship for the well-being of the district generally. And it would be idle, or perhaps unmanly, on such an occasion as this, to conceal that we have, in common with tens of thousands of our countrymen, long had our hopes and expectations fixed upon your Lordship as one eminently fitted, and we trust at no distant period destined, to exercise a powerful and salutary influence in the great council of this nation—the British House of Commons; and thereby affecting the happiness and prosperity of our native land. GEORGE GRAHAM, Chairman (of preliminary meeting). Lord Morpeth (who was received with much enthusiasm) then rose and said—Sir, Ladies and Gentlemen, it would he quite impossible to receive the Address which has just been put into my hands, without deep emotions, produced both by the event to which it refers, and by the manner in which your considerate sympathy has led you to notice it. I have been already made fully aware that, on the night of the fire, which has reduced so large a portion of Naworth Castle to ashes, the exertions of many, now- standing in this assembly or residing in this neigh- bourhood, were most zealously and conspicuously employed, in the endeavour to control the progress and counteract the ravages of a force, not then to be bxvm PRESENTATION OF ADDRESS. overcome by human exertions. And in bowing sub- missively to every allottment made by that will which is All-Wise, I feel that it is permitted to find an alleviation in the heartiness of the good-will thus practically exhibited during those fearful hours ; and at the present moment, upon cool reflection, thus affectionately confirmed and renewed. I do not affect to treat lightly the loss which my family, and in some degree the public have sustained. There were fea- tures and lineaments belonging to the ancient dwelling house, the border stronghold, which gave to Naworth an aspect and a character peculiarly its own. It is true you would vainly have sought there the space and the state which are to be met with in the present arrangements of the castles of Alnwick, Warwick, or Windsor; but there, as nowhere else, you could look upon the actual halls where old barons or wardens presided — and galleries where retainers for moss- troopers kept watch—upon vaults where the booty of the foray was stored—or the dungeons where free- booters, if not Scotchmen, were immured. But while much undoubtedly has been lost which must be mourned over as irreparable, there is still much room, as you properly remind me in your Address, for gratitude in what still remains. The entire tower of whether you call him “ Bauld” or ee Belted” Will —the whole circlet of the outer walls, both within and without the court,—in their full massiveness, and their grey simplicitythe very verdure which clothes them, in all its freshness—and the ineffaceable beau-PRESENTATION OE ADDRESS. XIX ties of the site,—these are still left to us. • Among many topics most kindly presented in your Address, you have been pleased to make allusion to my father; and I confess I must look upon it as one of the most acceptable circumstances of the present proceeding, that although the destruction of that ancient roof which he so much loved—and which he must have considered as destined long to survive him—must inevitably have cast something of a shadow upon his hour of weakness, it will still he cheered by the as- surance that the inhabitants of this large neighbour- hood have regarded his bereavement with sympathy, and hold him and his house in respect. You do me no more than j ustice in ascribing to me a lively con- cern in the welfare of this district, comprising as it does the ancient Barony of Gilsland ; and I can as- sure you with perfect truth, that I know no place where the advantages of education, in all its branches, are more creditably dispensed than in this town of Brampton. You adveit with an interest which is not unnatural, to the future prospects of Naworth. I am glad to know that already a gentleman whom we con- sider entitled to almost the same measure of condo- lence with ourselves, and wdio possesses our entire confidence, Mr. John Ramshay—I am happy to say that he has already found shelter enough within its precincts, and my regrets would be more poignant than they are, were I not to allow myself to hope, that in days to come, its time-honoured walls may afford some means of residence to a family of which they have long been the possession and delight.XX PRESENTATION OE ADDRESS. John Forster,, Esq., of Brampton, then moved the thanks of the meeting to the Chairman, which was seconded by Lord Morpeth, and carried by acclamation. The Chairman returned thanks, and the meeting then separated.&nf$i0torical&ttountofj%atoort!) there were also the cradle, and the military saddle, chest, gloves, and broad metal belt, of Lord William, Among the portraits which had been here preserved, may be mentioned those of Charles I. and Charles II.; James II.; Charles Howard, first Earl of Car- lisle of his name; Algernon Percy, the tenth Earl of Northumberland; Arthur Lord Capel, who was be- headed in 1648; Queen Elizabeth; Democritus ; and also a fine three-quarter length of Lord William Russell, representing him as having wound up his watch, for the last - time, previous to his execution, There were also paintings of Elizabeth and the Infant St. John, the Salutation, the Assumption, the Na- tivity, the Virgin and Child, Belshazzar's Feast, and the Tribute Money.BEFORE THE LATE FIRE. 23 LORD WILLIAM HOWARD’S APARTMENTS. At the east end of this gallery, was the entrance to the tower, (evidently a portion of theoriginalbuilding) containing the suite of private apartments occupied by Lord William Howard, which formed the most interesting part of the castle. The entrance consisted of a small arched opening, guarded by a very massive iron-grated door, secured with numerous huge bolts, several inches in circumference, and running far into the stone work. This door could with difficulty be moved on its thunder-grating hinges, and w'hen fas- tened, would have defied all human strength to open it. Inside oi the strong Door, leading to Lord. William Howard's Apartments.24 DESCRIPTION OF NAWORTH CASTLE, After passing through a short dark passage, the first apartment was entered; it was a bed-chamber,* retaining its original furniture, measuring 14 feet by 18 feet; the floor was formed of a hard composition, and the mantle-piece had sculptured on it, three shields, with the arms of Dacre quartering those of Vaux, Lancaster, and de Morville; Dacre impaling Grey- stoke (modern) ; and Boteler of Wemme impaling ---------supposed to he Vaux; the shields were all surrounded by the garter, and on lables between them was the motto:—£W !L0i$it$« The walls were wainscotted with oak, and covered with tapestry; on pushing aside a panel of the wainscot, near the fire-place, there was a dark apartment vaulted with stone, and guarded at the entrance by a strong door of oak. THE LIBRARY. Above the bed-chamber and secret room were two other apartments, forming a library and a private chapel. A circular stone stair case, dark and narrow, admitting only one person to ascend at a time, con- ducted to these rooms. The library was of the same size as' the chamber beneath it, but more gloomy. It was fitted up with plain closets, filled with a valuable collection of old works on history, school divinity, * This apartment, as well as the oratory and library, with the principal part of their furniture, &c,, have happily been spared amid the general destruction.LORD WILLIAM HOWARD’S BUD-ROOM.BEFORE THE LATE FIRE. 25 &c.* There was originally a good collection of MSS. in this library, but only a few of them lately remained, and those of little value, f There was, however, one extremely curious docu- ment, containing a life of Joseph of Arimathea, ( “ ex- tractus de libro que invenit Theodosius imperator in Jerusalem/’) and his twelve disciples; together with a history of saints, with the number of years or days for which each could grant indulgences in the mon- astery of Glastonbury, It was written on six large skins of fine vellum, beautifully illuminated, and was pasted in a wooden case, with two folding leaves, the dimensions of which were two feet by three feet. There was an old reading-desk, of four sides, in the form of a pyramid with a flattened apex, which, by means of a screw passing through the centre, could be raised or depressed at pleasure. The windows of this chamber were narrow, and were reached by an ascent of three steps; the ceiling was richly carved, in a similar manner to the ceiling * On the title -page of most of the books was the autograph of Lord Wiiliam, written in a good hand, and in some cases, a short remark was connected with the name : a few examples will not be unacceptable. In a book of Martin Luther’s against the Romish church was written, “ William Howarde. Volo sed non valeo, [the motto of the Howards ] non possum quod desidero On a copy of Calvin’s Institutes, date 1569, “ was qui sibi videtur stare videat ne cadat.” On a copy of Galateo, was “for thear glory is to change, and thzar liberty is to rainge” On another volume was the softer language, “ merces amor is amor. Mary Howarde. W. Howarde. 1582.” f In the Oxford Catalogue of MSS., vol. II. pp. 14, 15, there is a list of these MSS., sixty four in number, consisting of chronicles, chartularies, divinity, poetry, heraldry, &c. Most of the MSS. are now in the Herald’s Library.—Lysom*26 DESCRIPTION OF NAWORTH CASTLE, in the deanery of Carlisle; the corbels and bosses were embellished with armorial devices. Here Lord William passed much of his time; “ a lover of the venerable antiquity,” as he was styled by Camden, having closed his door, he could pursue his favourite study without interruption, but perhaps little thought that after a lapse of more than two hundred years, any of his documents would have remained, to excite the wonder, or gratify the curiosity of a distant genera- tion. This we owed to the care and veneration of his descendents, who had laudably preserved the castle as nearly as possible the state he left it. Among the leaves of an old black letter folio, clasp- ed, and bound in oak, we discovered on a sheet of paper, “ A Catalogue of my Lord's books in the shelves next the firef which was endorsed on the back, “A Catalogue of my books at Narward. The dates of some of the books prove that this Cata- logue was made subsequently to the death of the Lord William Howard. Since it was written, some of the books appeared to have been removed to Castle Howard, and their places supplied by others. The spelling and arrangement are preserved as in the MS. It was as follows : — DATE. Ortellius Theatrum Orbis Antwerp. 1570 Gerard et Hundius Atlas Guigonis Prioris Carthusise Statuta Tho Waldin Carmilitar Provinciates contra Witclevis- tas et Hussitas Paris. 1530 Supplement Chronicarum Jaco Oiphilipi Berjomei^sisBEFORE THE LATE FIRE. 27 Les Fleurs vies des Saincts per de Rebadneira Paris. 1560 Martyrologium Romanum per Cessar Baronium Antwerp. 1589 Decret. Cratiani Taurini 1520 Sanctorum Probata per Laurentium Surium Carthusi, 6 tom. 1576 Annalium Boiorum lib. sept. per. Joan Aventinum In. 1554. Shelf Second. Georgij Brannij Theatrum Budasij Lexicon Grseco-Lat. BassilL Claudius de Eucharistise Controversijs Paris* 1575 Torserre’s History of France 1624 Conf. Catho. Fidei Ant. Stanislao Hoseo 1561 Divus Thomas A quin at. con Gent. Lugd. 1586 Josephus in French 1569 Lilia Cisterchij. Downy. 1663 French Dictionary 1572 Gualteri Tabula Chronographica Shelf Third. Sanctus Thomas in lib. sententiarum 1614 A Book of Statutes per Keble August, de civitate Dei A Book of Statutes 1676 Mathseij Paris Historia Lond. 1571 History tomus Basil. 1676 Math. Paris Hist. London Walsingham Alfredi Res gestoe 1571 Hist Belgica and Meterani Belgia 1598 Paulus Jovias de vita Illustrium virorum 1568 Flores Hist, per Mattheum Westmonasteriensem de rebus Britanicis, 2 vols. 1570 Carlij August. Lib. tres, Defensio fidei French Bible Basil. 156728 DESCRIPTION OF NAWORTH CASTLE, Orbes Theatrura Staemmatum Lotharingiae, pei Franc de Rosieres Paris. 1580 Shelf Fourth. Helvicus Chronolo 1628 Monasteriorum centuria prima Wyguleius de successione Archiepiseoporum Salisburg- iensiorum Marlani Scoti Poetse opera Les Grand Angleterre Annal Vita Caroli Quinti 1562 Phil, de Commene’s Hist. Eng. 1561 Alfredi Res gestae per Walsingam De gestis Sacris Anglorum Comment, in Genealogicum Austriacum Fillius de Rebus Gallicis Genealogia de Imperatorum Annales de Flandicarum Reriim. Lib, septem decini. Rerum Rurgundicarum Genealogia Comitum Imperij Romani Gesta Pontificum tom. tres. Rerum Memorabilium, lib. quinq Britain’s Troy De gestis Langueburgdorum.Tib. sex. Chronici Dilmari Epic. lib. septem. Sophologium Speculum Excul. Shelf Fifth* Chronologia Sacra Ant. Buntingo hannovdridensi Annales Ecclesiae Ant. Barronio. tom. 12, lib. Antivefp. Chrono. Ant. Joan FuncioBEFORE THE LATE FIRE. 29 Shelf Sixth. Gencralia Concilia Ant. Binnio, 5 vols Ravani Commentaria Panli Jovij Opera Aug. Thuani Hist. 4 vols. An Old Manuscript Shelf Seventh. Homer’s Iliad, by Ogilby Joan de Laet. Indise Descriptio Homiliarum Liber Decretarum Bonnifaceiet dementis Papse Speed’s History of England Sir Walter Raleigh’s Hist. Miind. Lauriea Austriaca, sive de bello Germanice Annotationes Sacree JSvangelicse, in partes duas. Ramsis in Liberales Artes Marina Hispani Hist. Contintd de le Chronis de Flandres Chambden’s Britania, Latin An Epitome of ye History of France Shelf Eighth. Annals of Burgundy Walsingam’s History, Duplicate Ludolphus de Saxon Evangelise Opus Genalogicum de Prsecipuis Faxnilijs Xmperatorum. A Book of Voyages Ruftone’s Vultorum Commentaria Aurelij Cassidori. lib. duodecim Rushworth’s Historical Collections Hist. Eccl. Script. E. Shakespeare’s Plays 161830 DESCRIPTION OP NAWQRTH CASTLE, Perka’s Pilgrims, 3 vols Controversia de Indulgentijs Monumentorum Italia?, lib. quatuor Eccl. Hist, ab Crancij An Old Chronicle One of the books (a Treatise on the Real Presence) contained the autograph of John Fishery Fpiscopus Roffensis—the strenuous opponent of the Reforma- tion, and a single hearted “martyr to honesty.” Another hook had been a present from the Abbot of Fountains. THE ORATORY. The chapel or oratory, was situated near the library at the top of the tower, and contained several interest- ing remains. It was fitted up with plain wainscot, painted red, and ornamented with escallop shells and cross-crosslets — armorial devices of the D acres and Howards; there were also the fragments of what is supposed to have been the rich screen of the rood- loft, or part of the reredos of the altar of Lanercost priory church, consisting of carved ornaments of pierced work, in wood, richly painted and gilt, nailed up on the walls of the apartment. On the altar were several figures in white marble, about a foot in height, sculptured in alto-relievo, and were of considerable value. They represented the descent of the Holy Spirit; an abbess holding a sword, attending on a crowned personage, falling on a sword; St. GeorgeBEFORE THE LATE FIRE. 31 and the Dragon; Judas saluting his Master with a kiss; St. Cuthbert carrying the head of St. Oswald, &c.; it is probable that they were brought from the adjacent monastery of Lanercost, at its dissolution. Above the altar was a large painting on wood, twelve feet in width by three feet eight inches in height, representing the passion and ascension of our Lord; beneath it was inscribed 0....mum * pt *trasitea4 per4 biam4attentrite4 tt * bitrete4 gt4 ett4 Mox • gtc * ut4 mt4 holor4 mtm ' The confessional was a small dark closet within the oratory, unfurnished. There were also two or three other small apartments in this tower, and on the exterior of this roof, in the watch-turret, was a room commanding an extensive view of the surrounding country, and the beautiful vale of Lanercost, called St. Mary’s Holme, THE DUNGEONS. The great square tower at the south-west angle of the castle was ruinous, but was remarkable on account of the dungeons beneath it; of these there were three on the ground floor, and one above, measuring fifteen feet by fourteen ; the mason-work was extremely sub- stantial, the doors were composed of iron, and secured by ponderous bolts ; they were without a single chink for the admission of light, and in the upper cell, a ring still remained in the wall, to which prisoners were chained. D %32 DESCRIPTION OF NAWORTH CASTLE, In a note appended to the “ Legend of Montrose/’ Sir Walter Scott says, The fine old border castle of Naworth, contains a private stair from the apartment of Lord William Howard, by which he could visit the dungeon, as is alleged in the preceding chapter to have been practised by the Marquis of Argyle.” The existence of such a passage had become a matter of doubt, as the most rigid scrutiny had been unsuc- cessful in discovering it, until the fire, when, not merely was the secret passage alluded to revealed, hut two doors were found to have existed in the dun- geons which had been previously unknown.* These dungeons were well calculated to inspire horror; and they no doubt contributed to increase the terror of the name of “ Belt Willie.” The south side of the castle contained a suite of bed-chambers, with their ancient furniture, in a tole- rable state of preservation. The silken hangings of the state-bed, with its deep fringe and hearse-like ornaments, appeared considerably decayed. One bed was pointed out under the denomination of the lady's fortune ; it was said that the lady of one of the for- mer proprietors expended her whole dowry, amounting to five hundred pounds, in the purchase of it. * There were also discovered at the same time, three re- cesses at the lower part of the East tower, which had evidently been constructed as hiding places, with slit holes to enable the persons taking refuge to watch the movements of the enemy.BEFORE THE EIRE. 33 The domestic offices,, with the great kitchen, oc- cupied the north side of the building.* The castle was built by Ralph Lord .Dacre soon after 1335, partly, it is said, from the materials ob- tained from Xrthington castle, formerly the chief re- sidence of the barons of Gilsland. The north side of it is in a later style, as are also the extensive cellars on the ground-floor, under the great hall. Its outer walls are from six to seven feet thick, and were well adapted to the mode of warfare formerly in use, but would ill have sustained a modem cannonading. It is composed partly of white and partly of red free- stone ; and though, with its mantling ivy, it wore the aspect of great antiquity, it was by no means ruinous. “ The whole house,” says Pennant, “ is a true speci- men of ancient inconvenience, of magnificence and littleness; the rooms are numerous, accessible by six- teen stair-cases, with frequent sudden ascents and descents into the bargain; besides a long narrow gallery.” The whole internal contrivance seemed only intended for keeping an enemy out, or eluding his vigilance should he effect an entrance; its secret passages were numerous; and it is possible that many of its close recesses are even yet unknown. f These remain entire.Hinea on iaatoortf) Castle. BY THE LATE BIGHT HON. FREDERICK, EARL OF CARLISLE. O N aworth I monument of rudest times, Wlien science slept entombed, and o’er the waste, The heath-grown crag, and quivering moss, of old Stalked unremitted war ! The call for blood A herd purloined, perchance a ravaged flock; Tor this how often have thy dungeons, caves Of sad despair, been fed with those, whose hands, More fit to wield the scythe or spade, upreared The enormous pike ! while all in iron clad, As plunder tempted, or their chieftain led, Joined the fierce rout of predatory force, Making our border tremble. Ah! how oft These oaks, that fling their leafless arms so high, And warn the traveller, erring from his way, (Best office of their age) have pitying heard The veteran’s dying groan; beheld him dragged To an unworthy death, and marked the voice, That to a long descent, and distant time, Left the dire legacy of deep revenge. If on yon mountain’s slippery ridge, where once, From man’s annoyance safe, the wild stag broused, Lord of this heathy world; and where the eagle Defied the invader of his rocky bed: N ow the plantation, gay with different tints, Drives its new shadow o’er the wondering lake:LINES ON NAWORTH CASTLE. 35 If now the waving corn has dared to hide, Within its yellow breast, the proud remains Of Roman toils, magnifience, and power; If now the peasant, scared no more at. eve By distant beacons, and compelled to house His trembling flocks, his children and his all, Beneath his craggy roof, securely sleeps; Yet all around thee is not changed: thy towers, Unmodernized by tasteless art, remain Still unsubdued by time.Hite of flora SMUUatn fHotoartr, THE <( BELTED WILL” OE ROMANCE. Costly his garb—his Flemish ruff Fell o'er his doublet shaped of buff, With satin slash'd and lined; Tawney his boot, and gold his spur, His cloak was all of Poland fur, His hose with silver twined; His Bilboa blade, by Marcbmen felt, Hung in a broad and studded belt; Hence, in rude phrase, the Borderers still Call d noble Howard, Belted Will. Sir Walter Scott. he residence of Lord William Howard, .(the Belted Will of “ The Lay of the Last Min- strel,”) having invested Naworth with a peculiar interest, a somewhat detailed memoir of his Life and character may not be unacceptable, and will he the means of ex- hibiting that nobleman as a man of letters, possessed of the amenities of polished life, rather than (as he has often been represented) a giant of romance and a terror to his neighbours. This we are enabled toLIFE OF LORD WILLIAM HOWARD. 37 furnish, through the politeness of the late Henry Howard, Esq., of Corby Castle, who allowed us to make use of his “ Memorials of the Howard Family/’ an “ elaborate and very magnificent” folio volume, constructed with great industry from papers, records, &c., in the possession of the various branches of the illustrious house of Howard. The volume was prin- ted for private distribution. Lord William Howard was the third son of Thomas, fourth Duke of Norfolk, and grandson of the cele- brated Henry, Earl of Surrey ;* he was born on the 19th December, 1563, and his mother, the Lady Margaret Audley, died a few weeks after giving him birth. When he was nine years of age, he was called to witness the painful spectacle of the public execu- tion of his father, who was beheaded on Tower-hill, in 1572, for his unfortunate attachment to Mary Queen of Scots. By this distressing event, not only were his tender feelings violated, but he was also deprived of his title, dignity, and estate, and reduced to the condition described by his father, when com- mitting him, before his death, to the care of his elder * The gallant and unfortunate Henry Howard, Eart of Sur- rey, was unquestionably the most accomplished cavalier of his time; and his sonnets display beauties which would do honour to a more polished age. He was beheaded on Tower-hill in 1546, a victim to the mean jealousy of Henry VIII., who could not bear so brilliant a character near his throne. The gentle Surrey loved his lyre— Who has not heard of Surrey’s fame ? His was the hero’s soul of fire, And his the bard’s immortal name. Sir Walter Scott,38 LIFE OF LORD WILLIAM HOWARD. brother Philip, Earl of Arundel, as “ having nothing to feed the cormorants withal.” His only hope of retrieving the fortune which was thus alienated by his father’s attainder, was by mar- riage ; and the lady Elizabeth Dacre, his half-sister, with whom he had been brought up, had been des- tined for him in early life. It was well for him, that on the Duke’s death, she was not placed by the queen, as a ward, under the care of some other person, who would probably, according to the ungenerous usage of the times, have disposed of her hand to some rela- tive. No such hindrance existing, the ceremony of their marriage took place on the 28th October, 1577, at Audley End, near Saffron Walden, in Essex, (which belonged to his brother Thomas,) when he was about fourteen years of age, and his lady some months younger. Up to this period, and for six years later, Lord William continued attached to the principles of the reformation, though during the latter part of that time, a gradual change in his religious views began to take place. “ The Duke of Norfolk,” says Mr. Howard,* “ who was a sincere and zealousprotestant, certainly intended to bring up his children in that persuasion, and his house was much frequented by Foxe,f (who had been his instructor,) by Bale, and others, its strong advocates; but he selected a per- son of the name of Martin to attend his sons to the * “ Memorials of the Howard Family.” f The MartyrologisfLIFE OF LORD WILLIAM HOWARD. 39 University of Cambridge, who was much inclined to Catholic principles, and who afterwards went abroad, and became a priest. The boys of course received some impressions from him, and when the Earl of Arundel* took his decision, (about 1583,) to declare himself a Catholic, he imparted it to Lord William, then about twenty-one years of age, who so readily agreed with him to adopt the same course, as to offer to accompany him to the Continent; and Lord William ever after adhered to the same principles— had his private chapel—and connected his sons and daughters with Catholic families.” By this step, at a period when the severest laws were enacted against the Roman Catholics, and the enemies of his family swayed the councils of the nation, he exposed himself to fresh calamities. In the year 1585, the Earl of Arundel, in order to es- cape the malice of his foes, and to enjoy without molestation the religion which he had recently pro- fessed, attempted to put in execution his design of escaping to the Continent. He had prepared a letter to be delivered to the queen after his departure, in which he fully explained the reasons which induced him to leave his native country, and at the same time expressed his undiminished loyalty to her as his sovereign ; but being jealously watched in all his movements, he was intercepted at a small creek in Sussex, where he wras about to take shipping, and * Lord William’s elder brother.46 LtjFE GE LORD WILLIAM HOWARl). was immediately committed close prisoner to the Tower of London* Lord William, who had now three children to engage his solicitude, Was made to share his brother’s captivity, and their sister, .the- Lady Margaret Sackville, was also placed in durance* Troubles increased upon him ; for about the time of his commitment to the Tower, a new claimant to the Dacre estates appeared in the person of Francis Dacre, who involved him in a litigation, which kept him for many years in comparative poverty. To use his own words,'* “Aim now countess of Arundel, and the nowe ladie Elizabeth Howarde, the sisters and co~heires of G eorge, late Lord Dacre, were ward to the queen ; and when they did accomplish age, sued liverey for the landes, which they quietly enjoyed untill the 27 yeare of Queen Elizabeth, [1585] -at Which tyme, Leonard and Edward Dacre were , botho dead, and Mr. Francis Dacre their younger brother, as male heir by color of his father’s supposed en* tayle,f entred upon the landes clayming them for • Treatise on the possessions and rights of the co-heiresses of George Lord Dacre, MS,, in the hand-writing of Lord ■William Howard, preserved at Greystoke castle, f Lord William, in the beginning of hts treatise of this pro- tracted litigation,says, that William Lord Dacre “in his ownlyfe tyme growing discontented with, himself for intanglinge his estate in such sort as unadvisedly he had done, grew distemper- ed in his brayne, and so till neare the tyme of his death con- tinued in a dull melancholly, 1 will not say frenzy. By the sayd intended intayle, he set division among his posterity, and sowed the seeds of dissension betwixt his owne children. Yea he himself conceaved so great dislyke of his younger sonns, Leonard, Edward, and Francis Dacre, who drew and per- suaded him to that unfortunate course of entayling his land, asLIFE OP LORD WILLIAM HOWARD* 41 his own. The Earl of Arundell and the Lord Wil- liam ITowarde, husbands of the sayd co-heirs, defended their right and kept possession of the landes and houses. About easter after, by the permission of Almighty God, the said earl of Aruridell, and his brother, Lord William Howarde, wear committed close prisoners to the Tower of London, and their landes then in controversies by the earnest sule of Mr, Francis Dacre, sequestered from them,”* Lord William then proceeds to relate that the title of the inheritance was awarded to be tried on the right of presentation to a living—De jure paironaius. “Mr. Francis Dacre, not omitting his advantage of tyme, prosecuted his cause with great violence when both his adversaries wear close prisoners, in dainger of their lives, and in >jo deep disgrace of the tyme, as scarce any frind or servant durst adventure to shew themselves in their cause; nay, the councillors re- fused to plead their title, when they hadd been for- merly reteyned ; Frinds were made, and letters were written, in favour of Mr, Fr. Dacre; Jurors were chosen of his neare kindred and professed Jfrinds : sed magma est verilas—-for even that trial passed for the they coming unto hym, lying upon his death bedd, and desiring his blessing, he in the bitterness© of his hart, and detestation of their former sinister practise, left among them, instead of a blessing, the’curse that God gave Cayn, which every one of them hath happened top truly to feel, &c.—Quoted by Body- sow, History of Northumberland. * Vide Gent.’s Mag., (March 1791,) for some particulars respecting the earPs confinement in the Tower, and an en- graving of an inscription supposed to have been carved by himself during his imprisonment,42 LIFE OF LORD WILLIAM HOWARD. co-hens.” When “ Lord William was enlarged out of the Tower/’ and his brother released after having been fined by the Star Chamber, they presented a petition to Lord Burleigh, claiming that the trials might proceed without delay. In the meantime, the cause proceeded under different pleas, and “ on St. Peter’s day, 28 Eliz. (30 June, 1586) the cause being debated at large, counsell on both sydes fully herd, the evidences thoroughly viewed and dewly considered, the L. chancellor, Judges, and Q’s learned counsell were fully satisfied, and agreed in one opinion absolutely for the title of the co-heirs.” It appears, however, that notwithstanding this favourable judgment, their lands were still withheld, under a variety of pretexts; and the Earl of Arundel, notwithstanding the heavy fine^ which had been im- posed upon him by the Star Chamber, being again arrested in 1588, upon a charge of treason, Lord William also fell under suspicion, and was kept in close custody, but nothing being proved against him, he was shortly after liberated. But the attainder of his brother, by which one half of the Dacre estates were forfeited, served as a plausible reason for not restoring the other half to Lord William; and although, in 1595, he presented a memorial to Lord Burleigh, praying for the restitution of . his posses- sions, he was compelled in the year 1601, in conjunc- tion with the Widow of the Earl of Arundel, (who died in the Tower, in October, 1595,) to purchase their own lands of the queen, by letters-patent, forLIFE OF LORD WILLIAM HOWARD. 43 the sum of 10,000/.; but this they did, says Lord William, in the document already quoted, “ in the names of Mr. Edward Carrill and others, because they would not in any sorte prejudice their owne righte.” “ In this manner” says Mr. Howard,* “the Lady, Elizabeth, an orphan, and co-heiress to estates of great magnitude, before she was seven years of age, was kept out of possession, till she had attained her thirty-seventh year. How she and her husband managed to subsist and pay the high charges of such suits, does not clearly appear, but his accounts from the year 1619 to 1628, inclusive, shew that he was still in debt, and paid ten per cent, interest for it.”f The accession of King James, to the English throne, opened, fairer prospects to the house of Howard, which had suffered so much for their attachment to his unfortunate mother. Lord William, in 1603, was restored in blood by act of parliament, and in the same year, he accompanied his uncle Henry Howard, (afterwards Earl of Northampton,) into Cumberland, when he met that monarch on his entry into the kingdom. He now began to think of re- pairing his baronial castle of Naworth, which during the long years of privation and trouble, now happily passed, had been neglected and deserted. The * lt Memorials of the Howard Family.” f Original accounts of Winderpool and Pildrom, stewards to Lord^William Howard. These curious documents are in the possession of Mr. Lawson of Longhurst, near Morpeth. E 244 LIFE OF LORD WILLIAM HOWARD, castle of Kirkoswald, being dismantled about the year 1604, by Lord Dacre of the Sooth, the ceilings of the hall and chapel, with their curious paintings, were purchased by Lord William, who applied them to the same uses at Naworth, and the repairs were proceeding, when the castle was visited by Camden, the celebrated antiquary, in the year 1607. During this time, Lord William resided with his family, at his favourite hunting-seat, at Thornthwaite, in West- morland, which he had purchased from Sir Henry Curwen; he had previously lived in a house in Enfield Chase, Middlesex, called Mount Pleasant. “ In 1624,” says Mr. Howard, “ according to the accounts cited, Lord William and his lady were set- tled at Naward, and all their family—sons, daughters, and their wives and husbands—appear to have lived with them; tradition says they were fifty-two in family....During this period he frequently rides up to London in the Spring; and by an entry in the accounts, (1622,) he had a house in St. Martin's lane. The cost of his journeys, with about from eighteen to twenty-four attendants, and twelve horses, going and returning, amounts each way from 15/. to 201. His allowance to himself for pocket money is, in 1619, limited to 20s. per month, but that is in- creased, in 1627, from 12/. to 36/. per annum, and he begins to buy plate and books, and more costly furniture for Naward; planting is going forward there; hooks are bought; purchases of lands and tithes made; and his daughters’portions, (1000/. each,) paid byLIRE or LORO WILLIAM HOWARD. 45 instalments. In 1619,, his grandson and heir, (whose father, Lord William’s eldest son, died in 1616,) William, is in France, is equipt in 1620, and in 1621 married to a daughter of Lord Eure, with a fortune of 140QZ. There are allowances for his sons, and payments foi his daughters. We see his second son, Sir Francis Howard, confidentially emoloyed in re- ceipts of money, and management of his estates, as he was an assistance to him in his official capacity. “ It appears that towards the close of 1622, Lord William had a serious illness-—the fee to his doctor is 10/., the hill of his apothecary 4L 4s.; and I con- clude that in consequence of their advice, he makes a journey to Spa. His orders for his dress and equipment shew the payments made for the very dress he wears in the picture at Corby. I annex the expenses of his journey to, and his return from, Spa :— (WidmerpooVs Accounts.) “ ‘ Payments for my Lo. in Ms journey to Spaw, May 1623, and from it hom. * It.—From London to Callis, and fees, and a bark to Callis, 21st May, per Bill...........£10 4 6 .. For fees at landing at Callis, and on [one] nights chargeis......................... 4 12 8 .. Rewards and extraordinaris in thejourney to Spaw, from Callis..................... 16 18 0 ,. Chargeis from Callis to Spaw, in Inns ..... 23 9 6 .. For two Carrobins at Ledgs, [I read this, two carbines at Leige, then renowned for fire-arms]............................ 44 0 0 e At Spawe.—Dyet at Spawe for 40 days.......... 29 5 6 .. For chambers, living, and firing. ... 6 6 6 E 346 LIFE OF LORD WILLIAM HOWARD. i At Spawe.—Rewards, necessaries and extraor- dinary at Spawe............................ 24 3 2 Stable and horse Chargeis there.... 10 0 15 e FromSpawe.—Chargeis from Spawe to Dunkerke 19 7 0 .. At Dunkerke, six neights diet and stable........................ 9 18 4 .. Rewards, necessaries, and extraor- dinary by the way in travel from Spawe..................... 11 2 2 ‘ It.—For wine in June, and bedding and vittels to the shipe............................ 27 7 3 .. Chargeis and shiping and ship-hire from Spawe to Newcastell and to Naward ... 18 17 0 “ This clue to his domestic life and affairs fails by the termination of the account in July, 1628; and from that period I have no means of adding particu- lars to his private life. “ From early life I find him occupied by literary pursuits, chiefly the history and antiquities of his own country, with heraldic researches relative to his own, his lady’s, and other families, There are several letters relating to Northern antiquities ad- dressed to Sir R. Cotton, among the Cotton. MSS. He published f Florence of Worcester/ and accord- ing to the account of the Arundel MS Sr, he collected many valuable MSS., of which, part remain in that collection, with notes in his hand; a few are at Naward, and probably at Castle Howard; and many are, I conclude, dispersed.” There are literary pro- ductions of this nobleman preserved at Norfolk house, Corby castle, and elsewhere; “but his realLIFE OF LORD WILLIAM HOWARD. 47 monument — cere perennius—should be inscribed The Civilizer of our Borders.” Notwithstanding King James’ accession to the English throne,* outrage and plunder continued to he perpetrated on the borders; especially that singular species of exaction termed black-mail. Among other regulations devised for checking these predatory customs, the inhabitants of certain districts were ordered, at their own expense to keep slough- dogs or blood-hounds, for the purpose of pursuing the offenders, (who acquired the appellation of moss- troopers,) through the sloughs and bogs to which they were in the habit of resorting, when followed by the victims of their frequent and destructive raids. Fuller, says of them, that, “ they come to church as seldom as the 29th of February comes into the Kalendar.” Lord William, being appointed by the king to the office of warden of the Marches, gave himself up to the diligent discharge of his official duties; he main- tained a garrison at Naworth of 140 men, and by his vigilance, firmness, uncompromising justice, and at times, severity, became highly instrumental in re- storing peace and order to those parts of the country. “ When in their greatest height,” says Fuller, “ the moss-troopers had two great enemies, the laws of the land, and Lord William Howard, of Naworth. He * That Monarch pleased himself with the conceit, that the borders which were before the extremities, had become the middle of his kingdom,48 LIFE OF LORD WILLIAM HOWARD. sent many of them to Carlisle, that place where the officer always does his work by daylight.’* It is probable that Lord William was first invested by James I. with the office of king’s-lieutenant and warden of the marches, on the death of George, earl of Cumberland, in 1605. He met that monarch at Carlisle in 1617, with a large body of his retainers, and received from him marks of his royal favour. " In a list,” says Mr Howard, “ in his own hand- writing,* entitled, Felons taken and prosecuted by mey for felonies committed in Gilsland and elesewhere since my abode her ; there are of them twenty-nine taken, and most of them executed, before 1612; from that time, the dates are added to their names, the last of which, making the sixiy-eighth, is in the year 1632. But there is no such thing as any execution, otherwise than by convictions at the regular assizes at (mainly) Carlisle, Newcastle, Durham, or in the courts of justice in Scotland.” This remark of Mr. Howard appears as if intended to justify his illustrious ancestor from the charge of setting up a military tribunal in his own castle, and arbitrarily passing sentence on the lives of his prison- ers. The following incident, however, seems to be well authenticated. His lordship, as has already been noticed, devoted much of his time to literary pursuits; he was one day deeply engaged in his library, among his schoolmen or fathers, when a sol- * MS. in the possession of the Earl of Carlisle.LIFE OF LORD WILLIAM HOWARD, 49 dier, who had captured an unfortunate moss-trooper, burst into the apartment to acquaint his master with the fact, and enquire what should be done with the prisoner; “ Hang him, in the devil's name!” ex- claimed Lord William; an expression intended to convey no other meaning than his displeasure at this abrupt intrusion on his privacy. The servant, how- ever, accustomed to the most implicit obedience, im- mediately construed this passionate expression into a command; and a few hours afterwards, when Lord William directed the captive to be brought before him, he was told, that in compliance with his orders, the man had been hanged. Sir Walter Scott says, the usual place of execution at Naworth was a grove of aged oaks near the castle, where many a border ma- rauder, both Scottish and English, struggled his last. Lord William, however severe and formidable, was not incapable of the softer feelings, so necessary to conjngal felicity. His attachment to his lady, during the whole period of their protracted lives, seems never to have varied or abated, “ In his accounts, there are a number of presents to her, even to decorate her person at an advanced age, and he had her portrait taken by the best painter* then known, when she was in her seventy-third year. He fired with indignation, amounting almost to implacability, at Sir William Hutton’s having insinuated, that she, during his ab- sence, when he was warden of the Marches, had con- * Cornelius Janzen.50 LIFE OF LORD WILLIAM HOWARD. nived at the escape of a prisoner, and would scarce accept an ample apology.* In the disposal of every estate belonging to her inheritance, he took special care that possession for life was secured to her ; and to the last, in every estate which he purchased and destined for their sons, he also gave her a life estate. One of these deeds is dated a year before her death, when she was in her seventy-fourth year; so that to the very close of their lives, their union appears to have been one of the truest affection, esteem, and friendship. ”f In 1634, we find Lord William residing at Corby castle, and the following particulars respecting a visit paid to him by three officers, are derived from a MS. (No. 213, Lansdowne Collection,) preserved in the British Museum. They state that when they were at Carlisle, they received “ a messenger from that truly noble Lord, we the last day missed on at Naworth, wth a curteous invitation to Dinner at Cor- by Castle the next day, (for there is Lp. then was) wch we accompted (as it was indeed) a mighty favour, from soe noble a person, & sent backe his Lps. ser- * “ On this subject there is a long writing of Lord William’s in the possession of the Earl of Carlisle.” The following Tract has been recently privately printed by Sir Cuthbert Sharp ;—“ Summary of the contents of a Man- uscript, formerly belonging to Lord William Howard, of Na- worth, containing an account of that N oble Lord, who suffered on the Scaffold for his attachment to Mary Queen of Scots, &c. also a Declaration of the Proceedings touching Thomas Routledge, of the Bailiehead, upon Sir W. Hutton’s false and malicious Information upon his apprehension in 1617.” f Howard’s Memorials, as before quoted.LIFE OF LORD WILLIAM HOWARD. 51 Vants, wth the tender of our Services till the next day that we were to wayte upon his Lp. to present them our selves. “ The next day wee went thither, & were by that generous brave Lord curteously and nobly entertayn’d, & sorry he sayed, he was, that hee was not at Naworth, to give us there the like. His Lps. Comaunds made us to transgresse good Manners, for neither would he suffer us to speake uncover’d, nor to stand up, (although our duty requir’d another posture) but plac’d us by his Lp. himselfe, to dis- course with him untill Dinner time. “ Anon appear’d a grave and virtuous matron, his Honble Lady, who told us indeed we were heartily welcome, & whilst our Ancient & myself address’d ourselves to satisfy his Lp. in such occurrents of Norfolke, as he pleas’d to aske, & desir’d to know, wee left our modest Captaine to relate to his noble Lady what she desir’d. These noble twaine (as it pleas’d themselves to tell us themselves) could nott make above 25 yeeres both togeather, when first they were marry’d, that now can make above 140 yeares, & are very hearty, well, & merry, & long may they continue soe, for soe have they all just cause to pray, that live neere them ; for their Hospitality, & fre entertainmt agreess wth their generous & noble Extraction, & their yeares retaines the memory of their Honble Predecessors bountifull house keeping.” Lord William, says Mr. Howard “is in The Lay of the Last Minstrel, called by Sir Walter Scott,62 LIFE OF LORD WILLIAM HOWARD. f Belted Will Howard/ meaning, I apprehend that he was in the habit of wearing the baldrick, or broad belt, which was formerly worn as a distinguishing badge, by persons of high station. But this, as to him, is not at all founded in fact, as the belts which he weares in his pictures, are particularly narrow. But the characteristic epithet, with which his name has come down to our times is Bauld, meaning e Bold Wyllie.’ That of his Lady is f Bessie with the Braid Apron; not, I conceive, from any embroidery of that part of her dress, but using the word broad, which is often so pronounced, in allusion to the breadth or extent of her possessions.” Lord William Howard died at Naworth,* October 9th, 1640, at the age of 77. The lady Elizabeth his wife, died October 20th, in the preceeding year. They had issue ten sons and five daughters, viz :— 1 Sir Philip Howard, ancestor of the Earls of Carlisle. 2 Sir Francis Howard, Knt., ancestor of the Corby branch. This is placed beyond all further dispute, as the Inquisition post mortem taken at Carlisle, 22nd April, 18th Charles I. (1642) expressly states that he 45 died at Naward.5’ Hutchin- son says his death took place at Greystoke, and that he was buried in the chancel of the church there ; but this is evidently incorrect. The blue stone under which Lord William was supposed to be buried at Greystoke, was raised in compliance with the wishes of the late Mr. Howard of Corby and of the late Earl of Carlisle: it contained only the remains of one body and a small leaden chest, in which there was some dust —probably the remains of the heart of William, Baron of Greystoke, who died 1359. Dr. Todd gives an account of a slab in the old parish church of Brampton, believed to cover a vault in which the old lords of Gilsland are buried. The late Mr. Howard thought it probable that both Lord William and his lady were buried there, and he intended with the con- currence of the Earl of Carlisle, to have the vault examined.LIFE OF LORD WILLIAM HOWARD. 53 3 Sir William Howard, of Brafferton, in co. Yorkshire. 4 Charles Howard, died unmarried. 5 George Howard, died unmarried. 6 Sir Charles Howard, of Croglin Hall, in co. Cumberland. 7 Sir Thomas Howard, of Thursdale, in co. Durham. 8 Sir Robert Howard. 9 John Howard, died in his infancy. 10 John Howard, died in his infancy. 11 Catharine Howard, died unmarried. 12 Elizabeth Howard, married Sir Henry Bedingfeld, Knt. of Qxborough, in co. Norfolk. 13 Margaret Howard, married Sir Thomas Cotton, Bart, of Conington, in co. Huntingdonshire, son and heir of Sir Robert Cotton, Bart,, Founder of the Cottonian Library 14 Ann Howard, died unmarried. 15 Mary Howard, married to Sir John Wintour, Knt., of Lindney, in co. Gloucester.&)t l^ustorical Account of fLanrrcost lP*tori>, he Priory of Lanercos^ beautiful in its situation, valuable in its architec- tural details,, and inters esting in the extent of the remains of its con- ventual buildings,, be^- yond any other religious house in the county,—is situated about eleven miles N.E. of Carlisle, in a sheltered part of the picturesque vale of St. Mary’s Holme, on the banks of the river Irthing. The Priory was founded A.D. 1116,* by Robert de Vaux, the second baron of Gilsland. The circum- stances which led to this event are sufficiently inter- esting, and are ascertained upon the most satisfactory documentary evidence. During the troubled reign * This date is given in a MS. in the hand-writing of Lord William Howard, preserved in the archives of Greystoke castle, of which we have seen a copy made by the late H. Howard, Esq., of Corby castle. Robert de Vaux “ founded the Priorie of Lanercost near adjoyning to Naward Castell, A0 1116.”— MS. as above. The Priory, however, was not dedicated until 1169.56 HISTORY OF LANERCOST PRIORY. of Stephen, the whole country was involved in civil conflict, in consequence of the attempts of the Empress Maud to secure the crown, which had recently been resigned by her father, Henry I., who died in the year 1135. During this period of turmoil, the settle- ment of property which took place at the conquest, became insecure; and in many instances, the descen- dants of the ancient Saxon proprietors, availing them- selves of the disorders of the times, struggled to regain the lands that had been alienated from them by their imperious conquerors. Among these wras Gilles fil Bueth, the claimant of the barony of Gilsland, whose father, after being expelled from his estate, fled into Scotland, where he collected a body of followers, with whom he made frequent incursions into his ancient patrimony, and disturbed the peace of the alien proprietor, though unable to dispossess him. These petty violences became so annoying, that at length both parties agreed, at the suggestion of de Vaux, to appoint a meeting of tryste, (i. e. under assurances of mutual safety,) in order amicably to settle their respective claims. They accordingly met in an open space, it may be supposed at a short distance from Castlesteads, (which was then the baronial residence) unarmed and without followers; and de Vaux having thus far suc- ceeded in trepanning his confiding foe-man, treach- erously murdered him upon the spot. But no sooner was this foul deed perpetrated than the murderer was visited with compunction, and in vain sought relief inHISTORY OR LANERCOST PRIORY, 57 the quiet pursuits of literature; some years after, as an expiation of his crime, he was induced to found the monastery of Lanercost, for canons regular of St. Austin ; and the conventual church was consecrated in 1169, by Bernard, Bishop of Carlisle, and dedi- cated to Mary Magdalene.* By the erection charter the founder reserved to himself and his successors the power to nominate the priors, when vacancies oc- curred; but afterwards the canons obtained leave to elect their superior, f From the architectural features of the church, the buildings appear to have proceeded gradually from the east towards the west; the choir being first erected, and the remaining portion not completed till some years after the consecration. The frequent incursions of the Scots, from whose violence, not even the sacred retreats of the religious were secure, rendered the inmates of the newly-erec- ted monastery constantly liable to alarm, and exposed them to greater dangers than their brethren in the * De Vaux was afterwards employed by Henry II... as a judge of assize, and noted as a civilian; but although the ad- ministration of justice was so lax that the murderer was pro- moted to the bench, the curse of heaven lighted upon him ; he died childless, and his estate passed into other hands. It is traditionally said that part of the expiatory ceremony consisted in the demolition of the walls of the castle and sowing the site (which was not to be again built upon) with salt; and the baronial residence was transferred to Irthington, ‘where the mound on which, according to the Norman plan, thekeep^ tower was built, still remains. In 1335, this castle was also destroyed, and Ralph Lord Dacre employed the materials, it is said, in the erection of Naworth castle, which henceforth became the seat of the barony. f Todd’s Diocese.58 HISTORY OF LANERCOST PRIORY, more favoured parts of the country. Besides the petty depredations committed by straggling bands of the marauding borderers, to which they were inces- santly subject, they were exposed, towards the end of the thirteenth eentury, to greater evils from the wars which were carried on by the politic and ambitious Edward I., in the prosecution of his claims to the feudal subjection of the Scottish kingdom. Upon the rupture which took place in 1296, between him- self and John Baliol, (whom in prefererence to Robert Bruce, he placed upon the throne, by virtue of the power of arbitration committed to him by the estates of Scotland) a large army, composed of 40,000 in- fantry and 500 cavalry, under the command of John Comyn, Earl of Buchan, with six other Earls, crossed the borders; and after making a fruitless attempt upon Carlisle, proceeding east-ward, they approached Lanercost, fired some of the buildings, and having secured much booty, hastily decamped, on hearing of the approach of the king’s forces. In 1280, the priory of Lanercost was honoured by the temporary residence of royalty, in the person of Edward I. On the 10th of September, that illus- trious king, who, above every other English monarch, has given an historical importance to the local annals, accompanied by his queen Eleanor, arrived at the priory, where he offered at the high altar a cloth of silk. How long he remained does not appear; but it is related in the Chronicle of Lanercost, that during one of his visits, he hunted in the neighbouring forestHISTORY OF LANE11COST PRIORY. 59 of Inglewood, where he took two hundred bucks and does. In March, 1281, the Bishop of Carlisle (Ralph Irton) visited the priory, and obliged the monks to receive a new set of statutes. After the battle of Falkirk, in which the Scots under Wallace were defeated by the English, king Edward returned to Carlisle, and in the year 1300, a new armament being fitted out against them, and appointed to rendezvous on the western border, the canons of Lanercost were again honoured with the monarch’s presence. The irrepressible spirit of liberty which still ani- mated the brave Scots, notwithstanding the repeated successes of their ambitious enemy, still continued to throw off the yoke that was again and again im- posed upon them ; so that Edward still found himself obliged to recommence the conquest of that important country. Robert Bruce had now gathered around him the affections of the people, and had sufficient power to unite those energies against the common foe, which had hitherto been given to the support of separate factions. This issued in a third revolt of the Scots, and Edward, in 1306, was once more brought into the north, finally to secure, by the most extreme measures, what he considered by far the most important acquisition of his reign. Aymer de Valence was dispatched before, and was so successful in the battle which took place at Methven, that the Scots under Bruce were entirely defeated ; and Ed- f 360 & is Tory of lanercost priory. ward, vowing vengeance against the whole Scottish nation, assembled a great army upon the frontiers, when he sickened, and on the first of October, 1306, accompanied by Queen Margaret, he was brought upon a litter to Lanercost, committing himself to the prayers and attentions of the canons, whose hospi- tality he had before so often enjoyed. Here he remained during the whole of the ensuing winter, being confined by the weak and declining state of his health, and was unable to meet his parliament ap- pointed to assemble at Carlisle in January following. On the 28th of February, however, his health being rather improved, he joined his nobles and the par- liament at Carlisle; but he did not long survive, dying at Burgh-upon-Sands, near Carlisle, in July, in the 69th year of his age, leaving behind him a character of being the most brave and politic monarch that has ever swayed the British sceptre. In con- sideration of the expense the monks had sustained by his long residence among them, and the damage they had sustained from the Scots, Edward, before his departure, presented them with various tokens of his royal munificence, and augmented their revenues by several benefactions.* While the king was at Lanercost, the order bearing date February, 1307, was issued, with the consent of his parliament there assembled,” banishing the - A letter preserved in Rymer’s Feed. mentions the fare- well gift of two churches. The letter is directed to the pope, begging his confirmation of the grant.HISTORY OF LANERCOST PRIORY. 61 debauched Piers Gaveston for ever from the kingdom, as a corruptor of the prince. After the death of Edward, Robert Bruce again came forth from his fastnesses, and not only regained what he had lost in Scotland by his late defeat, but made several inroads into England, in order to teach his followers to despise the military genius of the people who had long been the object of their terror. During the second of these successful raids, he re- mained three days at Lanercost, where his great enemy had spent the last days of his life; he quar- tered his army upon the tenants, and imprisoned several of the monks ; but set them at liberty again on his departure. The troubles of the priory were not yet at an end; for in 1346, David Bruce, the son of the last-named Robert, during the absence of Edward III., who was then contending for the crown of France, invaded Cumberland with a considerable force, and after having committed extensive depredations in the neighbourhood, approached Lanercost, plundered the monks of their treasure and jewels, and went off, after effecting much mischief, laden with considerable spoil.* * The Scots in their incursions, were generally mounted on small horses, which found subsistence everywhere, and carried them with rapid and unexpected marches, whether they meant to commit depredations on peaceable inhabitants, or to attack an armed enemy, or to retreat into their own country. Their whole equipage consisted of a bag of oatmeal, which as a sup- ply in case of necessity, every soldier carried behind him; together with a light plate of iron [a girdle] on which he in-62 HISTORY OF LANERCOST PRIORY. The march of the succession of the priors though scanty, is not entirely destitute of interest. In the Chartulary of Lanercost,*' in the hand-writing of Lord William Howard, is the following list of the earlier priors : 1, Symon; 2, Johannes ; 3, Thomas; 4, Walterus (Anno 4 Hen. III.) ; 5, Johannes; 6, Symon; in the register of Bp. Hal ton it is said, “ 1306—Syman, prior of Lanercost, procures a papal dispensation of bastardy for William de Suthayke, one of the canons, whereby he became enabled to take orders and bear offices in the society.” The seventh prior was Henry or Hugh de Burgh, who according to the Chronicle of Lanercost,f (of which record he might be partly the writer,) was a poet, and the following, taken from the Chronicle, will afford a specimen of his abilities. It is written in double rhyme, and commemorates in the most plain- tive strains, the great fire of. Carlisle, in 1292, in which part of the Cathedral and nearly the whole city was destroyed :— stantly baked the meal into cakes in the open field. But their chief subsistence was the cattle which they seized; and their cookery was as expeditious as all their other operations. After flaying the animal, they placed the skin, loose and hanging in the form of a bag, upon some stakes ; they poured water into it, kindled a fire below, and thus made it serve as a cauldron for the boiling of their victuals.—Froissart, lib. IF. cap. 18. * Preserved in the Dean and Chapter’s Library. f This is supposed to have been written by a Franciscan friar, and probably a member of their convent in Carlisle. The MS. is a folio volume, written on vellum, and is preserved in the Cottonian collection. British Museum, Claudius D. vii. extends from 1201—1346. It has been recently printed for the members of the Bannatyne and Maitland clubs, 4to. Edin- burgh, 1839.HISTORY OF 1ANERCOST PRIORY. 63 “ Dominica infra Octavas Acensionis Dili. Combusta est civi- tas Kariol. utpost Orbationem Episequeretnr Desolatiopopuli. Versus de Combustione Karlioli. “ Proh dolor immensis, maij sub tempore mensis Ignibus accensis, urbs arsit Karliolensis. Urbs desolata, cujus sunt aspera fata, Flarnmis vastata, misere jactet incinerata. Ecce, repentinis datur inclyta Villa ruinis, Fitq. cremata cinis, salvis tantum Jacobinis, Organa Campanse, vox musica canonicorum, Jam menti sanse sunt instrumenta dolorum. Post desolamen urbs sentiat heec relevamen, Fiat, Fiat, Amen ; Hoc audi, Christe, precamen.” On the death of the poetical prior, in 1315, the suh-prior and his brethren petitioned the Bishop of Carlisle, then residing at Horncastle, in Lincolnshire, to grant a commission to confirm their choice of a new prior, that they might not he put to the expense of a long journey for such confirmation. The bishop received their petition favourably, and Robert de Meburn was appointed to the office in 1316. He was succeeded by William de Southake, who died in 1337. John de Bewethby, a canon and sacrist of the church, was then chosen, and duly installed, but only enjoyed the distinction for one year, for in 1338, the sub-prior “ declared and pronounced, in full chapter, John de Bothecastre to be duly elected to the priorate, in the place of John de Bewethby deceased.” In the year 1354, John de Bothecastre resigned in form, in the chapter-house, in presence of the bishop as their visitor, assigning old age and growing in-64 HISTORY OF LA.NERCOST PRIORY. firmities as the reason of his resignation; he was provided with “ a decent lodging in the priory, with a competent allowance of other necessaries, and con- veniences for life.” He was succeeded by Thomas de Hexham, or Hextoldesham, who was probably chosen by the monks in hopes of having the severity of conventual discipline in some measure relieved, as gaiety and free companionship appear to have been his characteristic attributes, and the bishop, in ad- dition to the oath of canonical obedience, which was administered on such occasions, thought proper to hind him by a solemn promise not to frequent public huntings, nor to keep so large a pack of hounds as he had formerly done. On the death of Hexham, the brethren were divided in the choice of his suc- cessor, between a canon of Carlisle, and one of their own number, and the dispute ran so high as to call for the interposition of episcopal authority. The bishop enjoined, under the highest penalties, an exact canonical obedience during the vacancy, to the sub- prior ; and after deliberately hearing the case at Rose castle, decided in favour of the election of Richard de Rydal, canon of St. Mary’s, Carlisle. In 1360, prior Rydal absenting himself from the convent, the bishop appointed Martin de Brampton, a canon of the house guardian during his absence, with a charge of faith- fully accounting for his administration, when lawfully required.* After this period, we have no account of • About the end of the 14th century, the prior of Laner- cost was one of the superiors of religious houses who gaveHISTORY OR LANERCOST PRIORY. 65 the succession of priors; but what is here recorded presents a very interesting though veiy imperfect in- sight into the habits and modes of procedure in mo- nastic life. The monks of Lanercost yielded something to the general literature of the country; besides the Chro- nicle of Lanercost, already quoted, there are also two or three other historical MSS. of less importance, written by them, still preserved among the Cottoni- an and Harleian MSS. in the British Museum. At the time of the suppression of monasteries, in the reign of Henry VIII, the revenues of Lanercost were estimated, according to Speed, at £79 19s. Od. The site of the priory was granted by the king in 1543, to Sir Thomas Dacre, Knt. an illegitimate son of Thomas Lord Dacre, of Naworth castle, and his male heirs, “ in consideration of his true and faithful services.” Upon the death of James Dacre, Esq. the seventh lineal possessor, in 1716, without issue male, the priory estate reverted to the crown, and is now held on lease by the Earl of Carlisle. evidence in the famous dispute between Richard Lord Scrope and Sir Robert Grosvenor, relative to the antiquity of the coat of Scrope, from windows, monuments, seals, embroidered robes, &c.; whence we may infer that some one of the former family had been a benefactor to this priory.©mriptiott of tfje lUmaine of; Hattmoot Uriorin he ruins of the monastic buildings are of consider- able extent; and being situated in a secluded vale, watered by the meandering Irthing, sur- rounded by well-wooded heights, with the grey mountains in the dis- tance, present an exceedingly venerable object, and give a peculiar interest to the beautiful landscape. The approach from Carlisle is over a stone bridge, (probably the one erected by the munificent Lord William Howard,) and serves to prepare the visitor for the scene of former religious solitude to which he is introduced. The ancient gate-house stood nearly opposite the western front of the church, at the distance of about three hundred yards; the arch of it alone remains, bearing a profusion of ivy and hanging shrubs, which cause it to assume an appropriate prelude to the pic- turesque ruins beyond. Passing under this arch-Way, there is a fine verdant meadow, within the precinctsDESCRIPTION OF LANERCOST PRIORY. 67 of the priory, in the centre of which, raised upon a small platform, is the stump of what appears to have been a cross. The conventual buildings stand on the south side of this enclosure, and in proceeding to describe them, we may make one prelimary observation on the style exhibited in their architecture, which is the re- sult of a careful examination of all their parts.—-We remark, then, that the style is almost uniformly that which prevailed during the latter half of the twelfth century, and which is now u, Tally termed the Early English; but it is of a very early character in that style, not so far advanced as it is seen in the choir of Carlisle cathedral, still retaining many of the massive features which characterized the preceding or Nor- man style, and, perhaps, if the western front be ex- cepted, is to be regarded as a transition style from the Norman to the Early English, rather than pure Early English. In proceeding with our description, we shall com- mence with the church, and then pass on to the other buildings, of which there are considerable remains, though they are seldom visited. We shall endeavour to avoid the unnecessary use of technicalities, so as to render it interesting to the general reader; while at the same time, we shall enter sufficiently into detail, to render it satisfactory to the scientific enquirer and the antiquary. The Church, is erected in the usual form of a cross, but with some peculiarities in its plan. It consists of68 DESCRIPTION OF LANERCOST PRIORY. a nave with only one aisle, which is on the north side; a transept and choir, without aisles ; butj the transept has chapels on its eastern side, as has also the choir on the south and north sides, which last extend about one half the length of the choir: there is a low embat- tled square tower at the intersection of the cross.* The western front is evidently the latest portion of the church, though it does not appear to have been built long after the more easterly parts. The entire elevation of this front consists of three divisions; in the lower one is a noble pointed arch, with a series of shafts and very deep mouldings, forming a grand western door-way; above this, is a range of niches, * The following remarks on church architecture by a modern writer, although not appropriate to the historical account of the foundation of this church, are well deserving of a place on ac- count of their extreme beauty : “ Of old, church building was a delight, a luxury, a passion. The men of wealth would build some glorious fane from foundation to turret, and those whose means were less abundant would furnish a pillar, a transept,or a choir: each man felt a paternal interest in his work; while he lived he delighted to visit it, and watch its progress : when he died, his mortal remains were laid beneath the roof which he had raised, in hope of His coming, whose promise had called forth his bounty. Thus did church architecture arise, and thus was it perfected. Men knew that they were building, not for man, but for the Glory of His name, who had furnished for them this spacious earth in its beauty and abundance, and who was gone to prepare for them mansions in heaven, and there- fore none could endure that their work should yield in magnifi- cence to that of another. Nation vied with nation, city with city: the news of an improvement was borne from one shore to another; and if some new beauty was introduced in one coun- try, it was so quickly imitated in others and spread over the whole of Christendom, that theplace of its originbecamedoubtful; and as the stars break out at once in every quarter of the sky, it seemed to have arisen everywhere by one simultaneous im- pulse.”— Wilberforce’s Parochial System.DESCRIPTION OP LANERCOST PRIORY* 69 forming an arcade filling up the centre width between the lateral buttresses, and having trefoil heads with detached shafts* Two or three of these niches have been destroyed to make way for the insertion* of a small window which is now bricked up, it is probable that there were originally thirteen of these niches, which may have been filled with statutes of our Saviour and the twelve Apostles.* There are now ten niches, and j udging from the space occupied by the inserted window, there were three others of the same breadth as those now remaining, or two broader ones : the former supposition, however, is the more likely. Immediately above this arcade, rises a series of lofty lancet arches to the number of seven, all of equal height, except the centre one, which is broader and higher than the other; three of these are pierced for windows, the remaining four are left blank. In the gable, above the middle window, is a canopied niche in which is a figure of the Virgin and Child, with a monk on her right side, in the attitude of devotion. This fa$ade, measuring 64 feet from the ground to the top of the gable, (which was formerly ornamented by a cross,) is justly regarded as a very fine com- position, and its details have suffered comparatively little from decay. Passing into the church by the grand door way already described, the visitor is introduced into the nave; this portion of the structure is characterized * Over the door of the choir of the Cathedral church of Canterbury, were images of our Saviour and the twelve Apostles. g270 DESCRIPTION OF LANERCOST PRIORY. by simplicity,, and measures 98 feet in length, and, including the side aisle, 39^ feet in breadth. The aisle alone,— as appears from Bishop Nicholson’s Visitation Book, in the Dean and Chapter’s library at Carlisle,—was used, at the beginning of the last century, as the parish-church, when the nave itself was roofless and ruinous. More ample accommoda- tion, however, being required about fifty years ago, the nave was repaired, and, together with the aisle, has continued up to the present time to be used for Divine service : the waving shrubs and weathered aspect of the ruins of the choir, seen through the large window which has been inserted within the tower-arch, at the east end of the nave, are well cal- culated to excite a peculiarly solemn order of emotion in the worshippers assembling within this consecrated fane. The south side of the nave, against which the cloister abutted, is differently constructed from the generality of churches; instead of arches, as on the opposite side, it has only a blank wall, from which by a door-way at each end of the nave, now walled up, were outlets to the cloister. In place of the tri- forium or gallery running over the main arches, are four lofty lancet-shaped windows placed at unequal distances from each other; which is, perhaps a pe- culiarity nowhere else to be seen, Above these, is the clerestory or upper gallery, consisting of an elegant arcade or continuous range of small pointed arches, springing from clustered shafts; there are seventeenDESCRIPTION OF LANERCOST PRIORY. 71 arches on each side of the nave, and in the mouldings of their architraves, the toothed ornament occurs. This arcade is continued round nearly the whole of the church; but the three arches nearest the tower, on both sides of the nave, as also the parapet on the exterior of the church at the same point, though they agree with similar portions in the choir and transepts, differ from those in the more westerly part of the nave; plainly indicating that at this stage of the work, some slight variations of style were adopted in the building. The aisle on the north side, is separated from the nave by four very obtusely-pointed arches springing from octagonal piers. The mouldings of these arches are flat and without ornament; one of them springs on one side from a beautiful corbel or bracket, which may he particularly noticed, as it is the only attempt at sculpture in foliage exhibited in the whole building. The north side of the nave has no triforium above the main arches, hut it has the upper gallery as already intimated. Leaving the nave by a door at the east end of the aisle, the splendid ruins of the eastern parts of the church, with the rich monuments of departed heroes, open to the day, present themselves with a peculiarly imposing effect. The roofs of the choir, transept, tower, and southern chapels, are. gone; that in the northern chapels remains, and consists of a plainly groined vaulting; it supports a great accumulation of soil, affording nourishment to several trees, which g 372 DESCRIPTION OF LANERCOST PRIORY. together with the shrubs springing in every part from chinks in the walls, where vegetation could scarcely he expected to exist, add to the picturesque effect of the ruin. The length of the choir, taken with the width of transept, is 76 feet, making the entire length of the church on the inside, from E. to W., 174 feet. The central square tower is supported hy four piers, three of which are octagonal, and the remaining one is clustered. The length of the transept from N. to S. is 91^- feet. The side elevations of the choir are as singular as those of the nave; and are dissimilar from one another. On each side towards the east end, where the chapels or side aisles do not extend, are two fine long lancet windows, having above them the beautiful arcade, which forms the upper gallery round the choir and transept; these are the only points in which the two sides of the choir agree. In the two compartments nearest the tower, the mortuary chapels (which were formefly screened off for special religious services for their founders,) are separated from the choir, hy two lofty pointed arches reaching up to the string line of the upper gallery, and springing from very tall circular piers, which appear comparatively light from their uncommon elevation. The two corres- ponding compartments on the north side, hy contrast, have a triforium inserted beneath the upper gallery, which allows the main arches to rise to only about two-thirds the height of those on the opposite side.DESCRIPTION OE LANERCOST PRIORY. 73 The eastern end of the choir is lighted by six lan- cet windows, placed in two rows. Beneath them is a square recess, to contain the saered vessels of the high altar ; and in the wall on the south side of the altar, is a tomb, under an arch in whose mouldings is the toothed ornament, marking it out as co-eval with the building of the nave, and leaving little or no doubt of its being the tomb of the founder. Of the other tombs (which are numerous) there are two which, for richness of sculpture, and the il- lustrious persons whose memory they commemorate, are deserving particular notice. That filling up the space between the piers of one of the chapels, where the roof remains, was erected to Humphrey, Lord Dacre, (see ante p. 7,) who was Warden of the marches in the reign of Richard II., and died in 1485. That on the south side of the choir, is still more rich, and commemorates Thomas Lord Dacre, K.G., who commanded at Flodden field, and died in 1525, (see ante p. 7). Both these are altar-tombs of large di- mensions, and have armorial devices boldly sculptured in several compartments on the sides, with niches, and angels bearing shields. Some parts of the sculpture have been wantonly mutilated with a chisel, probably the act of some enthusiast at the period of the dissolution; hut upon the whole they are in good preservation, and one is protected from the weather by a stone canopy, erected by the laudable anxiety of the late Earl of Carlisle to preserve these relics of his noble ancestors.74 DESCRIPTION OP LANERCOST PRIORY, Having now described as concisely as possible the peculiar features of the church, we may pass on to the other remains. Several of the buildings have been destroyed, but the larger portion of them still exists, though much of their ancient character and appropriation is lost. Of the remaining offices, the first to be noticed is the prior’s lodgings, which, with * the hospitium, occupied a long range of buildings running west of the church and uniting with it. In the centre of these buildings is a square tower, mea- suring 25 feet by 25, with the tooth ornament, (which is peculiar to the Early English,) in the cornice; it was here that Edward I. spent the last winter of his life, and in reference to this fact, one of the apart- ments still retains the name of the king's chamber. The interior of these buildings, which extend 150 feet from the west front of the church, has been en- tirely altered to adapt them to modern convenience, so as to render it impossible to identify the several offices. The Chapter-house, which joined the' south tran- sept of the church, has been destroyed. Near the door leading into the south transept there is a stoup, or basin for holy water, which has been removed from its original situation. The cloisters occupied an area of about 100 feet square, on the south side of the nave ; the southern side of them remains and forms one of the most in- teresting features of the present ruins. This portion of the cloister measures 98i feet in length, by 23 inDESCRIPTION OF LANERCOST PRIORY. 75 breadth, and has a series of eight short massive piers running up the centre for the spring of the groining, by which it is divided into two walks. Above this cloister was .the dormitory, which is now converted into a garden. Within the cloisters are preserved a number of Roman altars, taken from the Wall of Severus, which passed at a short distance from the priory, and supplied much of the stone of which the church is built. The refetf ory, or great dining hall, fills up the space between the cloister and the west end of the church; it has been a noble apartment, measuring about 50 feet in length, by 13 J in breadth ; it is now used as a barn, and on that account is not often visited. Its fire-place is 12 feet in width; and if the apart- ment were cleared, it would still present a very interesting spectacle to the visitor. To the south of the refectory is a ruinous tower, 314 feet by 34, said to have been built by Sir Thomas Dacre, subsequent to the dissolution, when he fitted up the priory for his own residence ; many of the windows in the re- fectory, the prior’s lodgings, and other parts, indicate from their style, that an extensive repair took place about that period. Dr. Todd in his M.S. History of the Diocese, mentions the following verses as having been inscribed on glass in the great hall, A.D. 1560, 2 Eliz. *4 Mille et quingentos ad quinquaginta novemq. Adjice, et hoc anno, condidit istud opus; Tuomas Daker, Eques, sedem qui prim, in istam,76 DESCRIPTION OF LANERCOST PRIORY. Venerat, extincta religione loci. Haec Edvardus ei dederat; devoyerat ante Henricus longse praemia ihilitise, Anno Dni. 1559. There are several other of the conventual buildings now used as stables, &c., of which at this distance of time and amidst various alterations, it is not easy to determine the original use. In one of the out-buildings, a little west of the priory, are the remains of a curious cros^. built into the wall; this cross was formerly dug up in the cem- etery, and was then more perfect than at present. Lord William Howard copied the inscription into the Chartulary of Lanercost; it is as follows— “Anno ab incarnatione MCCXIIII. et VII anno interdict, optimente sedem Apocam Innocent III. Imperante in Ale- mania Othon. Regnante in Franc. Philippo Johe in Anglia. Willmo in Scotia facta h. crux.” Dr. Todd, in his MS. History of the Diocese, mentions the two following inscriptions. On a plain marble-stone, “ on the South side”— “ Here lies.........................the famous Lord of Gillesland who died A. Dom. MCCCC the xxx day May.” And towards the North side— “ Here lies Mabell the wife of Sr Henry Daere, K> who died A.D. MDIX the xii day of November.” I. F. WHITRIDGE, PRINTER, CARLISLE.