DIARY OF WILKES IN THE NORTHWEST
Edited By
EDMOND S. MEANY
REPRINTED FROM THE WASHINGTON HISTORICAL QUARTERLY, 1925-1926
UNIVERSITY OF WASHINGTON PRESS SEATTLE, WASHINGTON
1926qi7> ysoy-z
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Introduction
The United States Exploring Expedition, 1838-1842, deserves much more attention than it has ever received in the Pacific Northwest. During the summer of 1841 it did much exploration work in this region and added extensively to the world’s geographical knowledge of the Puget Sound and Columbia River areas. The squadron was in command of Lieutenant Charles Wilkes, of the United States Navy, and for that reason the enterprise is most often referred to as the Wilkes Exploring Expedition. The Government itself is partly responsible for the latter title. While the results were being prepared for publication, President Buchanan (February 8, 1859), complied with a resolution of Congress asking for a statement of all expeditions “on account of the preparation and publication of the work known as Wilkes’s Exploring Expedition.”1
The actual inception of the enterprise is clouded in the rancor of political and personal wrangles. Contemporary publications gave J. N. Reynolds of New York credit as originator of the undertaking and expressed anger at the refusal to let him participate in it.2 The act of Congress authorizing the expedition was passed on May 14, 1836, in the administration of Andrew Jackson. Ten years later, by the act of August 26, 1846, Congress directed the Joint Committee on the Library of Congress to supervise the publication of the scientific monographs in a form similar to the Voyage of the Astrolabe published by the Government of France.3 The scientists of the Wilkes Expedition referred favorably to conclusions reached by Charles Darwin in his explorations during the voyage of the British ship Beagle, 1831-1836.4 Anyone who has studied the character of Andrew Jackson will believe that he would not relish his country’s being idle while England and France were gaining laurels by scientific explorations around the world. Whether or not the suggestions by Mr. Reynolds influenced him, Old Hickory would favor that enterprise launched in the last year of his administration.
Reynolds had given an extensive address in the Hall of Representatives on the evening of April 3, 1836, and that same year
1 James D. Richardson: Messages and Papers of the Presidents, Vol. V., page 537.
2	Contemporary authorities cited by H. H. Bancroft: Northwest Coast, Vol. II., page
669.
3	Superintendent of Documents, Government Printing Office, Checklist of Public Documents, 1895, page 176.
4	James D. Dana: Corals and Coral Islands, 1890, page 261.
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Diary of Wilkes in the Northwest
it was published by Harper & Brothers in New York. In the same volume of 300 pages there are included much correspondence and many documents, all showing the extensive efforts made toward organizing such an expedition. The prized copy of the book in the University of Washington Library bears evidence of the uproar when Reynolds was omitted from the final preparations. A former owner of the book pasted two sarcastic poems on the flyleaves. The poems are anonymous and were clipped from The Inquirer and Daily Courier of September 23 and 28, 1837. The second poem is signed “Navy” and is addressed to the Commander of the Exploring Epedition. The first two stanzas are as follows:
Oh, Captain Jones, Oh, Captain Jones,
Go down upon your marrow bones,
Ax pardon of the Navy;
Repent ye too of all you've done,
Since you and Reynolds have been one,
And if you can behave ye.
Then with your corps so scientific,
Conduct at once to the Pacific,
The tardy Expedition;
And hie thee to the Southern pole,
Or shelter seek in Symmes's hole,
A very snug position.
“Symmes's Hole” was a favorite slur of the time. It had reference to a theory promulgated by John Cleves Symmes, an American soldier who lived from 1780 to 1829. His theory was that the earth is a hollow sphere, habitable within, with an aperture probably at 82° North Latitude. That supposed aperture was popularly known as “Symmes’s Hole.”
It is not necessary to dwell at length on the political wrangles that threatened disaster in the first two years. A contemporary publication says: “The failure of its first organization had exposed the whole affair to ridicule, and had seriously impaired the confidence and ardor of its officers and friends.”5 Lieutenant Wilkes refers to the situation as follows: “The command of the Exploi-ing Expedition devolved upon me, by orders from the Hon. Mah-lon Dickerson, then Secretary of the Navy, on the 20th March, 1838. At that time, great confusion existed in its organization. It is unnecessary, and would be out of place here, to enter into its
5 North American Review, Vol. 61, July, 1845, page 55.Diary of Wilkes in the Northwest
5
previous history. It is sufficient to refer to the fact, that it had already been denounced as an entire and complete failure, and that I was instructed to organize it anew.”6
Opposition to Wilkes arose partly from that early trouble and partly from the fact that he was only a lieutenant in rank. In sarcasm he was referred to as “lieutenant-commodore.” One of the best reasons for his selection is revealed by a later biographer as follows: “He was appointed to the department of charts and instruments in 1830, and was the first in the United States to set up fixed astronomical instruments and observe with them.”7 The opposition continued and, with other troubles arising on the long cruise, culminated in court-martial at the end. In this he was acquitted of all charges except illegally punishing some of his crew, for which he was reprimanded. In trying to throw off personal feeling he wrote: ***** it was as incumbent on me to see that our work was not retarded by their want of zeal and knowledge, as to shorten sail on the approach of the tempest.”
This was the first expedition of the kind ever undertaken by the United States Government. The squadron consisted of the sloops of war Vincennes and Peacock, the ship Relief, the brig Porpoise and the tenders Sea-Gull and Flying Fish. The officers and men were all expected to cooperate fully in the scientific work and all papers and diaries kept should be turned in at the end of the cruise for the use of the Government in publishing the results. The corps of scientists attached to the expedition consisted of Horatio Hale, philologist; Charles Pickering and T. R. Peale, naturalists; Joseph P. Couthouy, conchologist; James Dwight Dana, mineralogist; William Rich, botanist; Joseph Drayton and Alfred T. Agate, draughtsmen; J. D. Brackenridge, horticulturist. The titles thus used are from the instructions issued on August 11, 1838, by J. K. Paulding, Secretary of the Navy. The muster rolls of the crews show slightly different titles and add John G. Brown, mathematical instrument maker; and John W. W. Dyes, assistant taxidermist.
The expedition got under way from Norfolk, Virginia, on Saturday, August 18, 1838, and cast anchor at New York on June 10, 1842. They had sailed around the world. Most of their scientific work had been done among the islands of the Southern Pacific. It was believed that they had found a great continent in the
6	Charles Wilkes: United States Exploring Expedition, Narrative, Vol. I., page xiii.
7	Lieutenant William H. Beehler, U.S.N., in Appleton’s Cyclopedia of American Biography, Vol. VI., page 508.6
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Antarctic, but this was later proved to have been a huge ice-field.* On May 1, 1841, the expedition entered the Strait of Juan de Fuca and began the summer's work in the Pacific Northwest.
This is the part of the great enterprise to which the present publication is devoted. That it was deemed important to the interests of the United States on the Pacific Coast is shown by its prompt and confidential use. The squadron anchored in New York harbor on June 10 and on July 1, 1842, President John Tyler sent this message to the United States Senate:
“In pursuance of the suggestions contained in the accompanying letter from the Secretary of the Navy [Abel P. Upshur] and of my own convictions of their propriety, I transmit to the Senate the report made by Lieutenant Wilkes, commander of the exploring expedition, relative to Oregon Territory. Having due regard to the negotiations now pending between this Government and the Government of Great Britain through its special envoy, I have thought it proper to communicate the report confidentially to the Senate."8 9
That report was in manuscript form as several years elapsed before the printed volumes of the expedition began to appear. There was no haste about preparing the materials for publication. Lieutenant Wilkes served on the United States Coast Survey, 1842-1843, during which time, on July 13, 1843, he was advanced to the rank of Commander. In 1844 he was detailed to work on the reports of the exploring expedition, preparing them for publication. This continued until 1861. During that itme, or on September 14, 1855, he was advanced to the rank of Captain. Through that span of seventeen years of his editorial work, all the published volumes appeared but one, Volume XVII., on Botany, edited by Asa Gray, which did not appear until 1874.
The Superintendent of Documents, Government Printing Office, refers to the series as “Washington edition, 24 volumes, 11 atlases, 1844-1874.”10 However, five of the projected monographs were never published and probably still exist in manuscript form. These are Volumes XVIII., Botany, by Gray; XIX., Distribution of Animals and Plants, by Pickering; XXI. and XXII, Ichthy-ology, by Agassiz; XXIV., Physics, by Wilkes. The volumes that did appear were the first five, called Narrative, edited by Wilkes
8	Personal interview in Seattle, 1921, with Captain Roald Amundsen, who discovered the South Pole on December 14, 1911.
9	Richardson: Messages and Pagers of the Presidents, Vol. IV., page 160.
10	Checklist of Public Documents, 1895, page 176.Diary oe Wilkes in the Northwest
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and giving the story of the entire cruise; Volumes VI., Ethnology and Philology, by Hale; VII., Zoophytes, by Dana; VIII., Mammalogy and Ornithology, by Cassin; IX., Races of Men, by Pickering; X., Geology, by Dana; XI., Meteorology, by Wilkes; XII., Mollusca and Shells, by Gould; XIII. and XIV.,Crust ace a by Dana; XV., Botany Phanerogamia, by Gray; XVI., Botany Cryptogamia, by Brackenridge; XVII., Botany Cryptogamia, by Gray; XX., Herpetology, by Baird and Girard; XXIII., Hydrography, by Wilkes.
The first five volumes, the Narrative, were later reprinted, the most frequently encountered edition being that by Lea and Blanchard, Philadelphia, 1845. The Government’s edition of the Narrative and of the scientific monographs was limited to 100 sets. The three leading officers of the expedition—Wilkes, Hudson and Ringgold—each received a set. One set went to each of the following: Library of Congress, Naval Lyceum at Brooklyn, each State and Territory of the Union, each friendly power and one extra set each to Great Britain and France. Washington Territory was organized in 1853, while the volumes were being printed. A set was forwarded to the new Territorial Library but, unfortunately, they were not appreciated in the early days and some of the volumes disappeared. In later years, studies in this field of history caused the necessity of securing photostatic reproductions from the set in the Library of Congress. These were especially helpful from the volume on Hydrography and the large atlas accompanying it.
The outbreak of the Civil War not only ended the editorial work by Captain Wilkes but it probably was also the cause of preventing the publication of the five unprinted volumes mentioned. Captain Wilkes became a national hero during the Civil War. In 1861, while in command of the steamer San Jacinto he stopped the British steamer Trent and took off the Confederate Commissioners John Slidell and James M. Mason and carried them as prisoners to Boston harbor. Congress passed a resolution of thanks and northern newspapers were loud in their praise. Great Britain pro-testd against the stopping of her steamer on the high seas. President Lincoln had already said the two prisoners were probably “a pair of white elephants on our hands.” Secretary of State Seward caused the two prisoners to be given over to Great Britain and offered proper excuses. To approve the act, he claimed, would be the same as approving the “right of search” which had always8
Diary oÿ Wilkes in the Northwest
been denied by the United States Government. Captain Wilkes was promoted to the rank of Commodore on July 16, 1862, and had command of a squadron in the West Indies. By June 25, 1864, he was deemed of age for retirement (he was born in New York City on April 3, 1798), and was placed upon the retired list. On July 25, 1866, he was given the rank of Rear-Admiral on the retired list. He could enjoy that courtesy title for the last decade of his life. He died in Washington, D.C., on February 8, 1877.
Mention should be made of the fact that while he was busily at work on his manuscripts, he condensed part of his Narrative into a book called Western America, Including California and Oregon, which was published in Philadelphia in 1849. The gold rush to California was undoubtedly the reason for this book’s appearance. One item will show the value of the little book to our studies. Nowhere else has been found his reason for naming Point Defiance, near the present Tacoma. On page 81 of this book he says if it was strongly fortified it “would bid defiance to any attack.”
The Philadelphia publishers of Western America were Lea and Blanchard, who had published the Narrative four years before. In the back of the first edition of the smaller work there is a catalog of the firm’s publications, one page of which is devoted to the United States Exploring Expedition. They announced a magnificent edition of the Narrative “in five magnificent imperial octavo volumes with an atlas of large and extended maps” at twenty-five dollars. A new and cheaper edition at two dollars a volume was also announced and urged upon all who were forming libraries. There is included an excerpt from the Albany Religious Spectator as follows: “We have no hesitation in saying that it is destined to stand among the most enduring monuments of our national literature. Its contributions not only to every department of science, but every department of history, are immense; and there is not an intelligent man in the community—no matter what may be his taste, or his occupation, but will find something here to enlighten, to gratify, and to profit him.” The firm also offered a few copies of the five volumes and atlas at sixty dollars, calling them “the edition printed for Congress.” A further announcement offered for ten dollars each a few copies of The Ethnology and Philology of the United States Exploring Expedition. This was one of the precious monographs published for Congress, which was also republished by Lea and Blanchard. In fine type at theDiary of Wilkes in the Northwest
9
end of the page there is the announcement that the volume on Corals by J. D. Dana, Esq., “will be shortly ready, to be followed by the others.” Dana's Corals was republished in several editions; Pickering's Races of Men was also republished; but the other monographs were restricted to the 100 sets issued by Congress.
While at work on the Origin of Washington Geographic Names, 1915-1923, the desire arose to consult, if possible, the original diary from which Lieutenant Wilkes prepared the Narrative. Victor J. Farrar, then Research Assistant in the University of Washington, set about to find it. After much correspondence the original diary was located in the Hydrographic Office, United States Navy Department, Washington, D. C. Captain F. B. Bassett, U. S. N., Hydrographer, was kind enough to assist in having photostatic reproductions made of all those pages of the original diary which relate to the Pacific Northwest. Those pages are to be published as carefully and faithfully as possible. Lieutenant Wilkes became a naval officer before the establishment of the United States Naval Academy at Annapolis. His published Narrative is wofully redundant of commas and other punctuations, but his manuscript diary is relatively careless of such ornamentation. If any changes, however slight, are made they will be enclosed in editorial brackets. This document is considered a fundamental one in the history of the Northwest. Its faithful reproduction will be attemped with that thought constantly in mind.
At the end of each of the original pages will be placed the next page of the manuscript in brackets. Lieutenant Wilkes evidently started to use but one side of the leaves in his diary. Occasionally he thought of another item and wrote it by itself on the opposite side. All such are prefaced with [Added entry]. He also found it necessary at times to prolong a regular entry on the opposite page. Such cases will be indicated by [Continued on opposite page]. As the work progresses other devices may be found necessary to insure the readers and users of the document that they are being kept close to the oriignal manuscript.
Edmond S. Meany.
University of Washington Seattle, 1 July, 1926DIARY OF LIEUTENANT WILKES May 1841
1st May.
The first part of this 24 hrs. was full of anxiety respecting the ship's standing from side to side in the entrance to the Straits of Juan de Fuca in a dark, thick and rainy night with baffling and variable winds, the land was not to be seen but at short distances and then indistinctly, I preferred standing to & fro on time varying the length on the short or long leg. At daylight I found I had made some progress into the straits. An Indian canoe came alongside about 8 o'clock they spoke a little English and said they belonged to the Classet tribe in which bay11 it was my intention to have anchored last evg. if I had been fortunate enough to reach it. All this day we have scarcely had any wind, water quite smooth. At 2 P. M, I had all the boats hoisted out, and sent ahead to tow ships for the exercise of the men. The gig I sent to explore a near bay. Mr. Totten returned with the information that he had not been able to obtain any soundings though close in with the shore length of line ten fathoms The land on both sides is high about 1200 feet clouds hung heavy all day [illegible] and the rain and mist continued until about 4 o’clock at which time the Barometer showed a rise of .02 and the weather to break with a higher breeze from the westward, heading all day for the Point of New Dungeness. From 4 to 6 we had sunshine which we took advantage of to dry the clothees, Ends with light airs from the westward and clear moon light Bar. 29.780 [Added entry.] Two of the Indians that boarded us this morning were dressed in red frock coats, I suppose the livery of the H. B. C.12 time will show. [Ms. P. 55.]
May 2d.
This day we commenced with light winds from the wd. smooth water fine night both shores of the Straits of Juan de Fuca in sight continued our course towards New Dungeness Pt. with a light wind which left us at 5 A. M. when the tide swept us back some 6 or 7 miles the light air hauling to the sd At noon observed the Latitude 48.15 north Weather fine about 2 P. M. the wind sprang up from the Westward and enabled me to steer up the Straits at the rate of 7 knots. Exercised studding sails and
11	In early maps Cape Flattery is shown as Cape Classet and it is most likely that he here refers to Neah Bay, which he later tried to christen Scarborough Harbor.
12	Hudson’s Bay Company.
(ii)12
Diary of Wilkfs in the: Northwest
in consequence of studg. sails being torn badly and Lt. Budd13 persisting in exercising it whilst torn I was under the necessity of suspending him from duty, he spoke to me afterwards in the cabin, and I restored him to duty fully satisfied by his explanations that he did not intend the impression his conduct naturally led and therefore restored him to duty. At 6.30 we passeed New Dungeness Pt. in 3^2 fathoms within a % of a mile of it and then bore away for Port Discovery14 were I anchored in 27 fathoms water the Brig in company near Vancouver's point. It would be difficult to imagine a more perfect harbor than this there appears but one objection to it the water is rather deep, there never was an island that better deserved its name than that of Protection Island At 8.30 furled all sails and gave the men their Hammocks. There appears a few lodges of Indians in the Port, & a strong smell of fish in the wind which is from their quarters [Added entry.] This morning a canoe came along side and few can imagine the degradation of these poor creatures they appear to be but one degree removed above the Fugians. they pretend to no decency in their clothing if a blanket alone may be entitled to this name We bought some fish for a few fish hooks and tobacco which they seemed eager to obtain. [Ms. P. 56.]
May 3rd.
This day we have had many natives along side selling fish clams mussels &c. &c. They are for the most part under statue, dirty squalid and devoid of all pretensions to beauty smeared from head to foot with a red pigment, they seem to have had much communication with foreigners they generally wore blankets which served their only covering, they are much lighter than any natives we have seen since leaving the Fuegians. This day I made the survey of this Harbour employing 12 boats & officers, the wind blew fresh which prevented all the soundings from being carried through. The weather has been variable and the wind changeable. This habour is surrounded by Hills wooded to the wTaters edge. The Barometer had risen but again stood at 30.000 from which point it fell towards night the weather we have found chilly and the passing showers render the air damp.
13	Tliomas A. Budd is shown by the muster rolls to have joined the Peacock as Acting Master. He was transferred to the Vincennes at Feejee. After this temporary reprimand he was honored by having Budd Inlet, now Olympia Harbor, named for him and what is now Washington Harbor, near Dungeness, was charted as “Budd’s Harbor.”
14	Named in 1792 by Captain Vancouver for his ship. Lieutenant Wilkes, in the Narrative, Volume IV., page 298, says: ‘‘The description of Vancouver is so exactly applicable to the present state of this port, that it is difficult to believe that almost half a century has elapsed since it was written.”Diary of Wilkes in the Northwest
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I despatched a communication off to Fort Nasqually15 requesting a Pilot and interpreter, and look for his return tomorrow evening in company with the Steam boat of the H. E. Company that I have understood is now there Carpenters were sent on shore to cut some small spars for our boats. All the navies of the world might be furnished with spars here. Officers and crew were supplied with fish. [Added entry.] One of the natives whom I bargained to take the letter to Fort Nasqually was quite intelligent and spoke a few words of English & made great efforts to make us understand him, and to understand us but to little effect farther than the transmission of this letter and what he was to receive for his services. He was a catholic and finally made the sign of the cross, and said his short prayers.16 4. May.
Engaged draughting & plotting the work of yesterday the day was stormy in the morning in fact it rained hard all night and prevented the survey from being fully completed. In the morning we had no natives alongside owing to the stormy wind from the S. S. E. after noon it moderated & many canoes came bringing fish &c. &c. [Added entry.] Latitude of Discovery Harbour Carr's Pt. by obsn. of 4th 48° .03' .13". North. No Longitude obtained. By my observations of 5th Latitude was 48°. 02'. 58" N chronometric, Long 123°. 02'. 07.5" W. [Ms. P. 57].
5th May.
I have been employed this day in making observations for Lat. and Long., Variation, Dip, and Intensity on the Point near the ship which I call Carr's Pt.17 the rest of the officers of this ship & Porpoise including her commander have been engaged completing the survey of this Harbr. The weather uncommonly fine with a light Breeze from the Nd & Wd temperature 55° in shade. Many Indians about us lazy lounging & filthy combined with their gutteral language is enough to disgust any one without their fishy smell, they seem all well disposed & desrous of cultivating our good will
Fish we have in abundance Salmon, Cod, flounders, Clams, Crabs, oysters (small) ducks, geese, Venison. The water to be had easily and plentifully at Carr's Point.
The number of natives resident in this Bay is quite large I had them counted in their canoes at the time of meals & the num-
15	In the published Narrative he gives the correct spelling—Nisqually.
16	Probably a convert of Father Modeste Demers who began his missionary work along the shores of Puget Sound in 1S38.
17	In honor of Lieutenant Overton Carr of the Expedition.14
Diary of Wilkfs in thf Northwest
bers were 18 The women have a miner piece of bone stuck through the septum of the nose about an inch long though peculiar in its appearance it has not that disgusting appearance that I had imagined it would have from the accounts I have read of it & appears the only clean article about their persons. [Ms. P. 58.]
6	May.
An extremely fine day. At 10.30 got under weigh and beat out of Port Discovery and rounded the Point called by Vancouver Point Wilson and went in and anchored. Roads in 10 fathoms water sandy bottom. This is a beautiful Bay19 and has a long level beach with a Pond of Freshwater backing it and a run into the Bay where vessels may be supplied the Point a low sandy one called Hudson’s point20 is bold to and may be passed about a % of a mile in 10 fathoms from our anchorage Mount Baker shows over Hudson Point a large fleet might anchor and maneuver here, there is a Bluff that joins the beach abreast the ships the top of which slopes to the water and is a beautiful lawn here and there with groups of trees and to the Nd and Wd a fine copse of pine trees upwards of 1000 acres all ready for the plough the soil is a light sandy loam but seems exceedingly productive the grass was several inches high & covered with flowers & wild strawberry plants in blossoms. We anchored at 5.30 having had very light winds The distance from our anchorage in Discovery Port is not over 10 miles I think. At night made preparations for the survey of it.
7	May.
At 4^2 all boats left ship for surveying duty put up signals and observed measured a Base of 4,620 feet on a fine Beach. All Boats returned by 9 A. M. wind set in from the Eastward. Employed on board plotting work until [Continued on opposite page]
hour after noon when the wind hauled to the westward and I got under weigh Porpoise in company and stood up the Straits at 3.30 the wind came out ahead stood into a bight and came to anchor making preparations for surveying it tomorrow morning if the wind is ahead or calm. We have advanced almost 8 miles to the S. E. and from where we now are lying have a view of Admiralty inlet & Hoods Canal. With weather unpleasant and wind ahead with little cloud. Caught several new things in the dredge.
18	He failed to enter the number in the space left for that purpose.
19	Port Townsend Harbor.
20	In honor of Lieutenant William L. Hudson of the Expedition.Diary of Wilkes in the Northwest
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Fish & Venison alongside in plenty. Also ducks & geese. [Ms. P. 59.]
8th May.
Strong breezes this 24 hrs. boats at day light sent on surveying duty of a Bay which I call21 and in which I took shelter last evening at 1.30 P. M. got under weigh and beat up to a small bight Pilots Bight22 opposite to Whidby’s Island (East End) where I anchored in 15 fath. water close to the shore but being under lee of a Point we found it a snug berth for the night, here we were joined by Mr. Heath 1st Officer of the Steamer Capt. McNeil23 who kindly sent him down to Pilot us up to Nasqually Fort the principal settlement in Puget Sound belonging to the Company H. B. In beating up today we had a strong breeze from the S. E. and as much as we could carry our topgallant sails to. The Porpoise was unable to keep way with us and anchored about an hour after I did. [Added entry.] Mr. Heath mentioned a ceremony of offering the salmon before selling or trading any by the Indians, inquire about it.
The Company has a lease of 10 years of the Coaststead North of 54° from the Russian Company.
Finished letters and dispatches for Capn. Hudson who I am informed has arrived in the Columbia.24
9th May.
I got under weigh at daylight and found great difficulty in
21	He left a blank space here but in the Narrative Volume IV., page 303 he calls it
Port Lawrence, an honor for James Lawrence, of the United States Nary, whose battle-signal: “Don’t give up the ship!” made him famous. Vancouver in 1792 had named it “Oak Cove” because his men had found some oak	trees there.	Captain Henry	Kellett, in
1847,	sought to revive the old name	and charted	it Oak Bay,	which name is	in present
use.
22	In the Narrative and on his chart he calls it Pilot Cove and says it is opposite the southern end of Whidby Island instead of “Bast End” as here mentioned.
23	Captain William Henry McNeill,	for	whom Lieutenant Wilkes later	named McNeil
Island, (dropping one “1” in the process)	was then in command	of the	Hudson’s Bay
Company steamer Beaver. That famous craft had arrived in northwestern waters in 1836. Charles W. McCain in his History of	the	8.8. Beaver, page 21,	says:	“Capt. David
Home was first officer in command of the Beaver, and one can well imagine the feeling of pride with which he bestrode the deck of his brave little steamer which had so successfully made the perilous voyage around	Cape Horn,	and thus attained the proud	distinction
of being the first steamer to cross the	Atlantic to	America, the	first to round	Cape Horn,
and the first to ripple the waters of the broad Pacific.” Captain McNeill succeeded Captain Home in command of the steamer late in 1836 or early in 1837. At the time of the above entry the steamer was undergoing repairs at Fort Nisqually. All printed accounts heretofore have said that the first mate was sent out to Wilkes as pilot. In his diary he plainly says Heath was the first officer who was sent. Other authorities say that Charles Dodd, who came out in the Beaver as second officer, was promoted to first officer on arriving at Fort Vancouver. H. H. Bancroft, Northwest Coast, Volume II, page 657, says that when Governor Simpson of the Hudson’s Bay Company visited Fort Nisqually in that year 1841 “Hopkins and Heath” were in temporary charge there. On February 23,
1848,	Dr. W. Fraser Tolmie wrote to	the	Board of Management	of the	Hudson’s Bay
Company: “On the farm in occupation of Mr. I. T. Heath, there are now 170 acres enclosed,” etc. Heath’s name figures often in the “Journal of Occurrences at Nisqually House.” It seems likely that Heath was the pilot who later turned farmer.
24	It will later appear that Captain Hudson in the Peacock was wrecked at the mouth of the Columbia.16
Diary of WilkFs in the Northwest
getting the officers to their stations. Lt. Alden25 not having made his appearance on the forecastle when the topsails were sheeting home and after we had hove in 30 fathoms of cable I felt myself obliged to make an example of him by suspending him from his duty—and what aggravated his case more was he stood several calls. We beat up for about 2 hours with the flood and then anchored in apple tree cove in 20 fathoms water about 4 miles to the Sd. & Ed. of our last nights anchorage at 1 P. M. surveyed the cove & then got under weigh and beat to windward about 7 miles more and then anchored for the night under the western shore in 12 fathoms water sandy bottom The Point Orchard in sight to the Sd. & Wd. [Continued on opposite page.] found the tide to set strong to the Sd. & Wd. up the Sound. The wind generally draws down ship and with a head wind it is a tedious job getting up the Sound, the scenery is not unlike the North River particularly about Poukeepsie in places and from there up. Porpoise still in company. Trees putting out their foliage but the great majority of the timber is pine. Today I saw some apple trees nearly in blossom, I called the place apple tree cove.26 [Ms. P. 60.]
10. May
This day after 9 A. M. I despatched all the Boats on surveying duties up a Small Bay27 off the point of which we had anchored last evening, the morning proving calm prevented my getting under weigh with the tide which set flood until 8p2 o’clock after 12 o’clock, with the men that were on board I attempted to get under weigh but the wind proved light and I found it necessary to drop anchor again and run a tow line to the Porpoise by which I hove the ship sufficiently ahead to get under weigh by, and off the lee shore when the boats returned filled away28 and stood up the Sound with a stiff breeze which dying away about 7y2 o’clock I came to anchor within about a mile of the Narrows29 on the western shore in 17 fathoms water within about a cables
25	Lieutenant James Alden of the Vincennes.
26	It is not known that a single apple tree was there at the time and it is believed that he saw the western dogwood trees beginning to bloom.
27	In the Narrative he shows that he named this bay Port Madison. The north and south points of the bay he named Jefferson and Munroe in order to honor three former Presidents.
28	A nautical phrase meaning to trim the yards so that the sails shall catch the wind.
29 Near the present city of Tacoma. The diary capitalizes the name but the Narrative does not. However the capital “N” establishes the name on chart 78 in the Atlas accompanying the monograph on Hydrography.Diary oe Wilkes in the Northwest
17
length of the shore the bank shelving off very rapidly— from there we have a splendid view of Mount Ranier30 which is conical and covered about 2/3 rd. of its height with snow last Evening the weather cleared sufficiently to see it and also Mt. Baker at the Entrance of Admiralty Inlet—The survey of the last Bay made this morning proves it to be capacious and good water from 3 rivers or brooks that empty into it. If the weather should prove calm in the morning I shall make a Survey of this part of the Sound as I deem it highly important as vessels are likely to be detained here in consequence of the difficulty in getting through the Narrows,31 which I trust we shall pass tomorrow and reach the Fort before night.
Ends calm and cloudy. the country is about the same altitude tho less covered with wood & the trees are more blended. [Added entry]. Latitude
[Added entry.] Latitude observed on shore by circum-meridian lights. 47°. 41'. 15". N. Long. 122°. 41'. 12".
Mt. Baker bore [blank]
“ Rainier32 “ [blank]33 [Ms. P. 61.]
11 May
Employed this morning in surveying the Sound just below the Narrows which we finished about 1. o'clock and when the tide served at 3 P.M. I got under weigh with light baffling airs and had difficulty in getting the ships off the shore to which we were very close before we got underweigh but went closer after we weighed however by dint of exertion the boats took us off and we then took a good breeze that brought us to anchor off Nasqually by the help of a strong tide at 8 o'clock when I had the pleasure of an introduction to Capn. McNeill of the Steamer and a partner34 and a Mr. Anderson35 the agent at the Fort of the H.B.Co. they took tea with me and appear desirous of affording us all the assistance in their power at least such was their offer a few days will show the extent of it.
30	The published Narrative and charts show the correct spelling—Rainier.
31	His whole experience was with sailing craft and he knew such would not always find it easy to pass the Narrows into what was then known as Puget Sound.
32	See note 30.
33	Failed to record the bearings.
34	In the published Narrative, Volume IV, page 309, Wilkes says: “Captain McNiel is a native of Boston, and was extensively engaged in the Northwest trade. He proved to be a serious competitor with the Hudson Bay Company in their business, and was consequently bought off. He is now a trader in the Company’s service, owning stock, and receiving a share of the dividends; to qualify him for which it became necessary for him to become a naturalized British subject.” Captain John T. Walbran, in British Columbia Coast Names, pages 391-393, gives a similar record but does include the “partnership.”
35	Alexander Caulfield Anderson, after years of service with the Hudson’s Bay Company as Chief Trader, retired in 1858 and took up his residence near Victoria, B. C.18
Diary of Wilkes in the Northwest
Nothing can be more striking that the beauty of these waters without a shoal or rock or any danger whatever for the whole length of this Internal Navigation the finest in the world accustomed as we are to prize that of our own country.36
I shall now proceed to make many comments to explain the facts of this country but little known, and trust that our endeavors will be successful in accomplishing all that may be deemed advisable in the way of information relative to its capacities for emigrations and settlement. [Continued on opposite page, 60a.] 12. May.
Lt. Alden was this morning transferred to the Porpoise temporarily on being restored to duty.
Orders were given to Mr. Johnstown37 to prepare for an excursion into the Interior. Also to Dr. Pickering, T. W. Waldron of Porpoise, Mr. Brackenridge and the Sergeant.
Lt. Carr Mr. Totten May & Colvos,38 to hold themselves in readiness for surveying duties in the Boat's launch 1st cutter, Ariel & Pilot, also Mr. Sandford & Elliott to join the Porpoise.
Returned the visit of Capn. McNeill and Mr. Anderson the agent of the Fort. It is construtced with Pickets some 20 feet high quadrangular with Bastions at each corner covering less than an acre sufficient however to accommodate the first Establishment but this having become one of their (the H.B.Co.) farms they find it very much contracted, there is indeed as I am informed little or no necessity for a fort or defense now, the Indians few In number some 60 to 100 and perfectly peaceable, the fort is of this shape, [crude drawing of the fort] the bastions thus serve the whole side and the defenders being entirely under cover are enabled to fight against great odds. besides having the bastions the galleries extend all around the pickets I was also shown their garden in which among other things the peas were about 8 inches in height strawberries are in full blossom and will be ripe In a few days.[Ms. P. 61a.]
The gooseberries were in full bloom also but what surprised us most was salad that had gone to seed some 3 feet high & very large, and thrifty.
With Capn. McNeill I visited the Steamer belonging to the
36	Captain George Vancouver expressed similar enthusiasm for the pristine beauty of Puget Sound. See his Voyage, Second Edition, Volume II, pages 117-118.
37	Lieutenant Robert E. Johnson, whose name was correctly given in this day’s entry In the published Narrative.
38	Passed Midshipman George W. Colvoeoressis. The abbreviated form was also used when Colvos Passage was named -west of Vashon Island. See Meany’s Origin of Washington Geographic Names, page 55.Diary of Wilkes in the Northwest
19
Company after looking out for a site for the obsy.39, on the top of the hill. The hill or bluff is about 200 feet above the water, low water mark, immediately under which the ship has one anchor in 12 fathoms the other in 31 although she is not over a a cable’s length from the shore. This part of Nisqually is about mile back from the base of the hill—opposite to the ship is a fine stream or brook of water affording all the facilities for watering ships, and washing the men’s clothes. The Steamer40 is about 120 tons, stern mizzen mast and has a double engine of 70 horse power, I was altogether pleased with the arrangement very like the boats in England of her class. I was exceedingly struck with the order of their machinery which at once showed their care of a good & practicable Engineer.
Everyone employed in fitting out boats and other duties appertaining to surveying. [Illegible] & put them in below. [Ms. P. 62.]
13. May.
Brig employed preparing for sea. All hands busily employed preparing boats for surveying. party on shore putting up the observatory.
Capn. McNeil Mr. Anderson & Mr. Wilson41 attached to the Methodist Mission dined with us also several officers—Reed. from Mr. A. a present of two bullocks he stated that his orders would prevent a constant supply, being limited to that number by the Govr’s instructions.
Lt. Johnston endeavoring to purchase horses, no success, less in obtaining guides—fine weather and temperature pleasant.
14th. [May]
Still engaged in oufits—no success in getting horses or guides. Mr. Wilson dined with professors42 little or no information about the country is a kind of mechanic lives in a nice log house with a Dr. Richmond & his wife & four fine fat children rosy cheeks quite a novel sight to us. The House is situated on an extensive plain poor gravelly soil—though striking scenery, plain girted by fine woods, and the distant snowy mountains in sight—this night rain. breezes from S. W.
39	Observatory. He had a special personal interest in this branch of the work.
40	He contents himself with capitalizing the word Steamer without using the name of the famous Beaver.
41	W. H. Wilson. See Bancroft’s Oregon, Volume I, pages 155-156, and 188.
42	Meaning the scientists of the Expedition.20
Diary of Wilkes in the Northwest
15th. [May]
Morning clear.
Brig sailed43 (for order see letter books), happy to get off, our party:— Bought today 5 horses if so they may be called, Indians difficult to deal with never know when they will sell, require surrender to them before closing a bargain—Landed transit [illegible]44 clock put up transit house Boats nearly ready, gave Lt. Johnson notice he must start on Monday by 2 o’clock—also that the Boats must be ready for departure—by noon same day. [Ms. P. 62a]
16th May.
Being Sunday nothing was done towards fitting out the parties. a fine pleasant day though cool.
17th May.
Busily employed fitting out the Expeditions45 for surveying and the interior the Boats started at 2 P.M. all in good spirits. I have succeeded in gettting them off without their grog as I was well satisfied they would enjoy better health.
Got Lt. Johnston off on shore and encamped that he might see his traps and equipment altogether.
Busily employed myself at the observatory in setting up the clock and transit this forenoon [illegible] in this meridian
making preparations for my departure for the Columbia River Fort Astoria—the weather fine though cool.
18th May.
Lt. Johnson not off yet fussing fidgeting and delaying our time no crupers, then no packsaddles, then no girths all his time being wasted bargaining for horses. I think his coadjutor Mr. I. W. Waldron would have attended to much better than he did. Still waiting for a guide no end to delay hope to see them off tomorrow, as I do not like the idea of starting before they are all off.
Have been most of the day employed at the observatory taking observations. Fine day & pleasant weather. Intend starting tomorrow morning. Mr. Waldron and Mr. Drayton with me. [Ms. P. 63.]
43	The Brig Porpoise beginning the hydrographic surrey from what they called Commencement Bay, the present Tacoma harbor.
44	An abbreviation that may mean siderial.
45	Small-boat expeditions to survey the southern inlets of Puget Sound, the work to be done while he made a journey to the Columbia River.Diary of Wilkes in the Northwest
21
19th. [May.]
Left the fort at Nisqually at 10 A.M. Our party consisted of Mr. Waldron Mr. Drayton myself and three servants with a guide( Canadian) and two Indian Boys and together with our baggage horses they amounted to 13 all of them kindly loaned to me by the Company's agent Mr. Anderson in charge of the Fort to whom I feel under many obligations for the trouble he took In fitting us out, if it had not been for his kindness we should have made sorry work of it horses are difficult to be procured the Indians are beyond measure the most provoking fellows to bargain with that I have ever met with, and as your wants or necessities increase, their prices rise in proportion, they are not slow in perceiving your wants, or the dilemma you may be placed in—which they view with becoming sang froid. Mr. Anderson's kindness in the loan of horses placed us beyond these difficulties and I had only to laugh at the perplexities L,t. Johnson was thrown into by the Indians retracting from the bargain he had all but closed with them, requiring more by way of potlatch or a gift adding greatly to the price of the horses; the only way to deal with them is to show an utter indifference of manner to obtaining the articles or closing the bargain, they then readily close for fear a competitor may come in and accept. They have little or no confidence in each other and are disposed to rivalry and knockouts, the chiefs have little or no authority.
Our calvacade wras novel and altho the Indians were clothed in worn out European costumes yet their free & easy carriage on horseback with a few ribbons and the cock's feathers stuck in their caps gave them an air of hauteur and self esteem that was not unpleasing [Ms. P. 63a] when viewed from a sufficient distance to hide and render their fittings unseen the management of their horses is truly surprising,and those that a foreigner or pale face would be unable to get off a walk they will mount and proceed with speed without the aid of spur or anything but a small switch. It is amusing to see their manner of whiping a tired nag to full speed when to us it had become all but lifeless. The horses appear to me to have a knowledge of an indian &f his cruelties to them. the usual bridle is simply a piece of rope fastened to the under jaw which seems all sufficient for the management of the most refractory horses and so different from the Spanish bit that was ever looked upon as necessary in such cases that one is not a little surprised how they are enabled to overcome22
Diary of Wilkfs in thf Northwest
them. They practice great cruelty in using their animals & a horse is seldom found that has not a raw back.
The Indians of this country are so much with their horses that one ought in giving their character to separate the two. on his horse he is a man but dismount him, and all his qualities vanish & he becomes the lazy, lounging lout insensible to anything but his own low gambling habits.
In travelling in this country when it becomes necessary to use horses one must lay aside all his feelings relative to means of his conveyance whether on sore backs, jaded horses or those that are lamed and half starved, these will accompany him wherever he goes my advice to all is to keep away from your horses until they are saddled. [Ms. P. 64.]
Our distance made today was 22 miles mostly in a south direction—at 9 miles passed the Nisqually River by descending a bank of 350 in height almost in some places perpendicular, and we were obliged to walk down it. This led us across a ravine and after having crossed the River 100 yds. wide running a N.N.W. course, with a strong rapid current about 3 feet deep at the ford we again ascended to the prairie level. The Nisqually overflows its banks in the spring and autumn together with all the Rivers which take their rise in the Cascade Mountains—Our route lay through most beautiful park scenery with the prairies here and there breaking through the magnificent pines. Over pr. covered with a carpet of flowers among which was to be found the Lupines camass, sun flowers [blank] & the scarlet [blank]46 together with* the welcome buttercup of our own fields. about 7 miles of our route lay through the gigantic fine cedar forest and although they are called sapplings, were 6feet in diameter and upwards of 200 feet in height. I could not control my astonishment. We encamped at 6 P.M. on a prairie after having crossed the Shutes River which falls into Puget Sound, it is a small stream at this season and will be fordable though when at its height is considered dangerous. Our encamping ground was a beautiful spot and by the large fire we enjoyed our supper exceedingly when alarm was witnessed by us novices in discovering a snake in the tent after it was pitched but this is considered so common an occurrence that I mention it (because I consider it unworthy of notice) as a characteristic of the country our visitor being found only a small garter snake that we paid no
46 He left room to fill in these names but failed to do so.Diary of Wilkes in the Northwest
23
attention to the usual visitor being a rattle snake which came but I soon learnt to be on the look out. they are here [Ms. P. 64a 1 however seldom seen below the mountains the soil there being wo wet above the Cascades and at the Dalles they are found in great abundance.
In the morning we found we had been visited by the elk & deer the attracion of the light usually brings them near & oftentimes I am told the hunters are enabled to kill them.
20th May.
We had a good nights rest, and 7 o’clock took our departure exclaiming at the beauty of the Park scenery. It was almost impossible to realize our being in a savage & wild country & it but wanted some building country seats to assure us that art not nature had perfected the landscape here. then a beautiful lake was passed with the sward growing luxuriantly to its water edge with deer feeding fearlessly on its margin, with every tint of wild flower growing in profusion.
The soil is shingle and light but would prove good for light and small grain crops, through these Prairies one finds very many tumuli some indeed are entirely covered with them, many of the same size, giving them this appearance [drawing] they are conical mounds about 30 feet in diameter & six to 7 in height above the level. being desirous of ascertaining if they contained any relics I visited this called the Grande Prairie with several of my men & had 3 opened but nothing was found in them but at the level of the outward surface a pavement of stones appears in all, they appear to have been formed by the scraping of the surface mould and forming it in heaps or mounds. they are evidently of old formation by a bygone race and no tradition is now extant of them. They are constructed with great regularity & over some [Ms. P. 65] extent of ground some miles whole prairies being occupied by them altho I could get at nothing direct respecting them I was one day told that the medicine man gathered his herbs from them to effect his cures & it struck me that the influence or rather custom of these Medicine Men may be still in vogue though all traditions have been lost, and taking into consideration the influence of the Medicine Men in their tribes it would be a satisfactory explanation to suppose they were used as places where the herbs for the concoction of their cures were grown.
They certainly are not places of burial and not provided24
Diary of Wilkes in the Northwest
by accidental causes they have the marks of savage labour and care and such a labour as a whole Nation had entered into.47
At 12 miles we reached the Chickeeles48 river the main branch about 200 yds. wide. it empties itself into Grays Harbour on the N.W. coast 30 to 40 miles north of the Columbia River, its course here was S. W. this was just below the junction of two of its branches the Quinous49 & [blank] rivers. There we found an encampment of about 20 Indians and a more wretched set one scarcely ever laid eyes on—they were preparing for the fishing season, we found the lamprey eel here for the first time it is quite common in the lower rivers—these Indians were dirty squallid & sickly looking living upon a few fish & the Kamass roots a kind of sweet squills that is very abundant on the prairies particularly those that are low subject to overflow by the small creeks—
We remained here to rest our horses & to let them feed on the luxuriant grass for two hours when we again set off & our first feat of horsmanship was to descend a perpendicular bank some 15 or 20 feet high into a small creek 3 feet deep [Ms. P. 65a.] this looked rather alarming but our horses seemed to take it so easy by sliding down on all fours that our fears were soon overcome & we got over safely such novices as we thot were doing a great feat. The soil now changed to a rich unctious clay in a few rods, and the wood became so thick with underbrush it was with both difficulty to horse and rider that we got on. Whilst the former was extricating his legs from the mud holes the latter required all his care and presence of mind to avoid being strangled or tom from his horse this was not all, fallen trees of all sizes, in all directions were to be jumped or hobbled over as best could be done to the exhaustion of our patience and irritation of our tempers. Our kind friends told us the road was good, we found it passable. I trust however my experience may prepare the traveller on this route for meeting with a bad road, If he don’t find one he may be thankful that he has escaped an irksome & fatiguing journey. About 12 miles farther we passed over the Mountain a hill of about 1500 feet in heighth which was climbed by steps the road having been worn in them by the continual track of the horses, the clay is so slippery that it would be im-
47	Geologists have since published many speculations as to the origin of those mounds. The favorite theory is that they resulted from the melting of glacial ice coverings of the area.
48	At present spelled Ohehalis.
49	This name has not persisted. It may have been the Skookum Chuck. Warre and Vavasour in 1845 mentioned in that vicinity the Quinze and Sous rivers. See this Quarterly, Volume III, page 151. Wilkes left in his diary a blank space in which he intended to write the name of the next branch.Diary of Wilkes in the: Northwest
25
possible for them to mount this hill without these steps. We encamped at the entrance of the forest having one of the beautiful prairies before us. Our camp was visited by some Indians who after looking at our means of defense & seeing that we had a proper regard for them, sold us some [Ms. P. 66.] fresh salmon & took their departure after bring us a supply of wood for our fire for which we gave them a trifle. We found ourselves truly fatigued as well as our horses and although the night proved rainy we enjoyed our rest exceedingly. In this branch of the Chickeeles the Quinous salmon are caught in abundance and supply the natives with much of their food. It is navigable for canoes though in places many obstructions exist.
At this encampment Mr. D50 found several pieces of cornelian some of a large size of the red colour.
21st [May.]
We left our encampment at 9 o'clock, the weather having cleared off, and the mildness of the day & the freshness of everything around us from the last night's shower added additional beauties to the glowing scenery. Our route lay through alternate prairies & the magnificent forest of tall pines and cedar passing by fords several fine streams of water. The soil excellent the prairies were covered with strawberries inviting one to dismount occasionally. they are our fine field strawberry and certainly m great abundance. There are many plants that excite a feeling of interest in this country as well known friends at home among the number the red honeysuckle which was now in full bloom. After passing an extensive plain called the Kamass of several miles I reached the Company's farm on the Cowlitz occupying an extensive prairie,51 and covered with luxuriant crops of wheat, and affording a pleasing prospect to the eye with its extensive granaries & shed and the litter of straw showing the product of the last year's crop and the industry of civilisation in the distance on some of the free settlers with their log huts & young orchards attached putting us in mind of our Western [Ms. P. 66a.] States with the exception however of the remains of the conquered forest, here the ground is ready for the plough and nature seems as it were to invite the husbandman to his labour.
I was kindly received by the Superintendent Mr. Forrest on my arrival, who quickly made arrangements for our canoes to
50	One of his companions, Joseph Drayton listed on the muster-roll of the Expedition as Artist.
51	Usually referred to as Cowlitz Farm Prairie.26
Diary of' Wilkes in the: Northwest
navigate the Cowlitz & Columbia as far as Fort George. The rest of the party came up much fatigued as well as their horses all did justice to the welcome chow set before us, and some would have gladly waited till morning for our departure but intending to return by this route again, I put off the further examination of the Farm until then. The Company have here a large dairy, and are about erecting a grist & saw mill. The Superintendent’s house is a large well hewed log house, makes a respectable show with its many lodges about it. numbers of cattle are seen feeding and seem to thrive altho I was told by Mr. Forrest that it became necessary to send them a distance for food in dry seasons, and at times they cut fodder for them on the opposite side of the River which is brought over by the Indians. this is done to prevent the loss of cattle & the destruction of the young by wolves. The Farm at the Cowlitz has no sort of defense about it showing conclusively as far as the Indians are concerned they are not molested. indeed their numbers here are too small to attempt anything and their dependence on the Company too great for their necessary articles of clothing & food they belong to the Klackatack tribe though their general name is that of the Cowlitz Indians. In a very [Ms. P. 67.] few years they will all have passed away. The number of acres under cultivation is about 600 the yield of wheat the 1st year was 10 bushels but the present one I was told would be double under the same culture (Since the harvest I have been told that this farm produced 7,000 bushels this season)52 attached to the Superintendent’s home is also a vegetable garden in which all the usual horticultural plants of the U.S. were growing and the climate was thought to be well adapted to them particularly potatoes—There is a Catholic priest belonging to the Columbia Missionary establish among the small community here which consists of half a dozen Canadians who have married Indians & half breeds. The visit I made to their habitations on my return fully satisfied me that they were well and comfortably off. The Banks of the Cowlitz here are about 150 feet above the river—the soil of a clayey loam and surface rolling—
The weather is not actually cold nor is the winter long, snow seldom lays but a day or two, fires are necessary most months in the year—the housing of cattle is resorted to partially but little or no provision is made for their sustenance the grass being suffi-
52 This parenthetical clause is not interlined, which indicates that the diary must hare been written later, on ship-hoard perhaps, from notes accumulated in the field.Diary of Wilkfs in the: Northwest
27
cient the year round, except in season of drought which seldom occurs.
Its Geographical Position is Lat. 46.30. Long. W. of Vancr. [blank] At an hour before sunset, we embarked in two canoes under the charge of Simon Plumondon (one of the Cowlitz settlers) and an old voyageur and trapper for the Company who had with him 9 Indians of the Cowlitz tribe all quite young full of merriment & fun laughing the live long day. I felt at last wearied by this incessant gaiety. At sunset [Ms. P. 67a.] we landed and pitched our tents on one of the small Islands covered with driftwood which gave us the means of getting up large fires a great comfort in camp and after travelling chilled through. I was engaged in getting Stars for time & Latitude the result of which gave our position [blank]
Plere our supper was prepared and after it another boiling for the Indians who had come along we found perfectly destitute of either eatables or things to cook in choosing rather to depend upon the generosity of the whites. I would recommend all who travel to see that their guides are amply provided with food & that they take proper care of it. All the natives we have yet met with require attention and this remark applies equally as well to the Sandwich Islanders as it does to the Indians on the N. W. coast neither will do your work without something to eat and they are always loathe to carry it if it can be avoided.
The Cowlitz is about 180 yds wide where we embarked. I tried the current and found it 3 miles an hour in some places it was more rapid. The soil along the Cowlitz appears good really of a good quality. The prevalent timber is poplar, soft maple, ash, fir, pine & cedar with some laurel. The soil is clayey loam with vegetable mould over trap & sandstone. These were discoverable in the banks where they had been and in, The river has many short turns & in the spring overflows its banks in places to a considerable depth. The current there is so strong that the only way a canoe can ascend it is to be pushed [Ms. P. 68.] along by the branches it is however the season which is used for its navigation and the supplies from Vancouver to the dam and sent from there are passed upon it just above the junction of the North fork lignite has been found in horizontal beds. I endeavored to get up to it in the month of Sept, but the Cowlitz was not navigable for a canoe. It is in horizontal beds and28
Diary of Wilkfs in the; Northwest
appears to me quite pure. I brought several specimens of it which are in the expedition
The north branch is rather the smallest of the two streams it takes its course about N. E. by E. to the snowy range of Mt. Rainier where Its source lies—it is not navigable its falls and rapids rendering it impassible during any portion of the year before reaching it the current moderated considerable or was through banks in the Cowlitz. This much swelled the fork is 18 miles from the Columbia—this whole river is very crooked until you reach within 5 or 6 miles of Columbia. When the river is high it can be navigated by boats drawing 5 or 6 feet of water, the entrance from the river (Cola.) is barred and would admit of but a small draft of water for sea going vessel it may be said to be unnavigable 9 months in the year & small steamers might be enabled to do it a month or two longer. I prefer representing it however as unnavigable for anything but canoes & the flat bottom barges of the H. B. Co.'s service.
The route by the Cowlitz will always be the general one by which the communication with the Northern Section of the country will be kept up at any rate until the country becomes settled—by it all the mountain ranges are avoided & the highways provided by nature (the rivers) point [Ms. P. 68a.] out the best course—to avoid & pass them. On our route down the Cowlitz we met several canoes going up well filled with salmon & trout obtained at the Willamette Falls as they told us and were going to trade with those of Cowlitz for the Kamass root.
It seems somewhat singular that no salmon should be found in the Cowlitz until Oct or the 2nd run of them and quite a difft. species from those of the Cola. in the month of June.
The beaches towards the Cola. become low and form extensive prairies skirted with wood on their borders—at its junction with the Cola. it forms 3 small Islands and its breadth is about 200 yards—there is only one channel by which it can be entered if the water is not high, much drift-wood is brought down it in the Spring of the year; when the Cola is high the water in the Cowlitz is then backed several miles, and its beaches are in like manner overflowed therefore it may be set down without doubt, that the low lands in the river are unfit for cultivation but well adapted for pasturage.
22nd. [May ]
We took our canoes before 5 o'clock in hopes of being ableDiary oe Wilkes in the Northwest
29
to reach Fort George at an early hour. The Cowlitz is uninteresting the banks grow really low, the only exception is a moderately hilly part near its forks about forty miles in extent— The length of the river from the Company’s farm to the Columbia is 24 miles although one is generally told it over 40. it is sometimes passed in iy2 hours, We made it in 5 hours.
The entering arm to the Columbia in striking this broad rapid stream carrying its course through the [Ms. P. 69.] barrier of trap rocks covered with the majestic forest fit barrier for such a river causes much excitement as well as pleasure, its waters are pure and clear little or no deposits being borne by its floods. This is perhaps owing to its passing through the long line of volcanic rocks in the upper territory, unlike our great River of the Eastern side it bears no fertilizing earth for the planters, but acts by its flood, upon his exertion to prevent his crops coming to maturity, this renders the cultivation—always will of the prairies on the Cola, very precarious altho the river dont actually overflow its banks yet the prairies are for the most part covered, supposed to be owing to the waters rising through quicksand in some places half a mile from the bank, if only a few inches it is enough to destroy the coming crop the Icy water chilling and preventing the grain from ripening but as grazing grounds few places can be equal to this affording the cattle abundance of fresh pasturage all the year round.
We descended the river at a rapid rate—admiring its scenery and the novelty of the sun—many fine views break upon one the high volcanic banks on either side & the distant conical snowy peak (Mt. St. Helens) form fine objects for the landscape. On the lower prairies & Island the timber consist of oak, ash, poplar &C. On the high-lands of the fir pine & cedar. The most part of the high lands on the river are too broken and precipitous for cultivation. They afford abundance of fine material for building, and which is easily detached in large masses or blocks requiring but little use of the stone bars to dress off the trap rock is very abundant & some [Ms. P. 69a.] descriptions of sandstone.
In St. Helens’ reach53 we met the Brig Wave that had brought our stores from Oaho having landed them at Fort George (Astoria) and was proceeding up the river to Vancouver in order to take a cargo of lumber from the Comp, to Oaho. I was greatly
53 In the published Narrative, Volume IV., page 319, the record reads:	“In this part
of the river, which I named St. Helen’s Reach.”30
Diary oE Wilkes in the Northwest
disappointed in learning from Capt. Moore that the Peacock had not yet arrived or been heard from and we proceeded after a few minutes detention on our route—by sunset we had reached Termination Island the lowest in the river and had the Pillar rock m sight, the distance to Tongue Pt. also in sight appeared so small that we determined but a short time would be necessary to reach it with the strong ebb and current, but a constant paddling only brought us near Fort George by midnight.
Our arrival at the Fort as it very much resembles all such incidents in the country—We continued (as I remarked above, paddling weary and fatigued with sitting in a canoe that those only who have tried it can fully appreciate), groping our way along the shores in the darkness, until we judged ourselves near the fort, where we made frequent discharge of our guns to notify of our approach but like all persons similarly situated our wishes, and anticipations, had outrun our speed. No wished for answer took place had I am ever inclined to believe scarcely changed oui situation—but we were passing the spot unobserved A musket was fired & a yelping of some dogs then told us the fort was near, delighted were we to make our escape (particularly Mr. W.) from our canoe and the cold dampness of the River.54 Mr. Birnie [Ms. P. 70] who has charge of the fort was soon at the Landing with lanterns and gave us a most hearty welcome altho he as well as ourselves were much incommoded with the incessant yelping scarcely allowing one to speak or be heard. We soon found ourselves by a merry fire and the whole home put in motion to afford us comfortable quarters and all done in such a kind and willing way or to express it more forcibly with that well known countryman's of his hospitality that it made it much more delightful to partake of. Mr. Birnie came early to the N.W. and has been here ever since. He was born in Aberdeen and left at 16 years of age. He is married and has a family now of nine children some of whom are grown up and are married. His hearth and board soon made us comfortable and we soon forget our long day's journey in a cramped up canoe in this log cabin on sloping ground with the aid of tables chairs & blankets oui rest made amends for all.
54 This greatly scratched and confused entry in the Diary is thus smoothed out in the Narrative, Volume IV., page 320: “kept skirting the shore for so long a time that I began to have misgivings that we should pass Astoria, and began firing muskets, the usual signal of an arrival. They were immediately answered by others just behind us, and the loud clamour of about forty yelping dogs.”Diary of Wilkfs in the: Northwest
31
Classic Astoria is everything but what I would wish to describe it, the few buildings (log houses) appear to be going rapidly to decay the Company appearing to pay little regard to them, they do not appear to have done anything since the establishment was removed to Vancouver, the opportunity of farming being very limited, and the clearing expensive now has endeavored to be established and perhaps as it is avowedly on the American side of the River it is thought unnecessary to continue operations that could not be permanent.
The beauty of its location is worthy of the Pen55 that has named it classic ground. I will here give the mode of preparing the buckskin which may be termed the cloth of this country. 1st. Immediately after the deer is killed the skin is taken & stretched tightly over a frame after having all the hair scraped off, it is left until it becomes [Ms. P. 70a*] as dry as Parchment, it is then rubbed over with the brains of the animal which imparts the od to it then it is steeped in warm water, after which it is dried over a fire two women stretching it all the time it is drying and smoking, it is then again wet and stretched by winding tightly round a tree, from which it again drawn & dried over the fire by women pulling it as before, when dry or nearly so, it is rubbed with the hands as in washing, until is is soft and pliable and :.s then ready for use.
Mr. Forrest stated to me that he had put a suit on twenty four hours after the animal had been running in the forest. I am well satisfied no kind of apparel can be so suitable for the life an Indian or trapper leads as this and particularly adapted to the wants of all those who have to travel in this wild country.
23rd. [May.]
Being Sunday we had a day of repose, and lounged about on the white clover sward which was as luxuriant as any I have ever seen, it has been brought here and is not indigenous to the soil. The day was one of those balmy days so frequent with us in May.
Astoria is situated on a Point of Band projecting into the River (an extensive arm or beach passes to the South and forms the Youngs Bay on the shores of which Lewis & Clarke wintered. The locality of their hut is pointed out but it has long since gone to decay) from it one has a beautiful view the high promontorv of Cape Disappointment and the Ocean bounding [Ms. P. 71.] it
55 Evidently a reference to Washington Irving, whose two volume edition of Astoria had appeared in Philadelphia in 1836 while the Exploring Expedition was in process of preparation.32
Diary of Wilkes in the Northwest
on the west, that of the Chinook Hills, Ellice Point and its rugged face topped with the virgin forest on the North & the knob of Tongue Pt. and distant Kalamet range of hills on the South through which this broad expanse of water has wound its way now passing at our feet in a broad magnificent sheet 4 miles in width winding its course silently to the ocean where is seen and heard the lashing and roars of their tides at meeting seeming as it were to bid defiance to and eternal war with each other producing at times an impassable barrier to the fearless and undaunted sailor—beset as he here is by every danger he nevertheless proves adequate to overcome them.
Plumondon,56 my Guide and Interpreter who is an old experienced voyageur and trapper is well acquainted with the country informs me that that portion lying to the north of the Columbia River is generally rough and rugged, much good soil in places, and is well timbered, the bottom lands along the rivers are good-These are those that bound the small streams falling into the Cola, and are made rich by the wash from the tides.
Mr. Birnie took us to see Ross Cox’s tree57 (Pinus Lamber-tiana) and altho a disbeliever in its dimensions, I can vouch for its existence as still near by is the canoe in which the great chief Kumkumly58 was buried being a flathead his remains have not been suffered to rest, it is generally believed here that by the hands of Dr. Gardner it was removed to the institution in Glasgow or Edingh. the rest of his remains are all missing said to removed by the natives to prevent farther depredations on them. [Ms. P. 71a]
24th. [May]
Mr. Birnie proposed a trip to Clatsop & Pt. Adams the Southern cape of the Columbia I was desirous of reconoitering the Bay’s Bar as far as I could and also to see the Missionaries who are established at Ft. Clatsop. We there found Mr. Frost & his wife Our jaunt was a pleasant one in a large canoe we
56	Descendants of Simon Plomondon still live in the State of Washington. He was a real character among the oldest pioneers. Wilkes says of him in the Narrative, Volume IV., pages 316-317 : “He proved to have been the cockswain of General Cass’s canoe, when on his trip to the lakes in the Northwest Territory ; and a more useful person I have seldom met with, or one that could be so well depended upon. He had been for several years in this territory, having left the Company’s service, married an Indian wife, and was now living on a farm of about fifty acres, at the Cowlitz, independent and contented. I have seldom seen so pretty a woman as his wife, or a more cheerful and good housewife ; before her marriage she was the belle of the country, and celebrated for her feats of horsemanship.”
57	One of the Astorians wrhose boo*s on the Columbia are among the classics in Northwest Americana.
58	The famous one-eyed Chief of the Chinooks.Diary of Wilkes in the Northwest
33
crossed Young's Bay and thence walked about X1/^ miles. Mr. Frost received us kindly at his new residence built as I understood him with his own hands, his wife was engaged in washing appeared cheerful and happy altho’ deprived of all society and little if any field for their labours here among the natives- The location of their residence seems to me unfortunate on the Sandy beach unsusceptible of any improvement. I am told he has in company with Mr. Koen also attached to the Mission a large tract of land about 4 miles from his residence where he is to be engaged raising a crop and superintending cattle.
Mr. Frost was a shoemaker by trade & his wife is what his class in life require an active smart body but I find there is little desire in either to bring about the conversion of the natives or in other words that they possess little of the missionary spirit.69
Mr. Frost Mr. Birnie & myself visited the Clatsop village ac Point Adams. Here we looked out anxiously for the Peacock as we understood that guns had been heard last evng & this morning, but we saw nothing.
We returned to dinner at Mrs. Frost which she had prepared herself, there was an attempt at showing off that made all her endeavors [Ms. P. 72] failures and only proved how she had been brought up which she was desirous of proving had been that of a lady but with ill success. Mr. Birnie and myself were greatly amused on the fright Mr. Frost was thrown into by embarking in a crazy canoe in order to avoid the long walk and which was ha?f filled with water before we reached our destination and we all were well drenched the kind gentleman in particular who declared we had been in imminent danger of our lives this served only to whet our laughing which continued in hearty strains throughout the day.60
There are 2 other American settlers here Tibbits & Smith both decent men, mechanics I believe-
The Clatsop Village consists of a few rough indian lodges
59 It is a pleasure to note that this slighting remark and others like it which followin the Diary when referring to Mr. and Mrs. Frost were not carried over into the published Narrative. Captain Wilkes evidently felt that he had listened to idle gossip. In the Washington Historical Quarterly for October, 1907, may be found an article entitled “Last Survivor of the Oregon Mission of 1840,“ in which the present editor records an interview with Mrs. Frost (then Mrs. Beggs). Though more than ninety years of age, she remembered much of her experiences at the Fort Clatsop Mission.
60	Captain Wilkes also changed this record of laughter at the expense of Mr. Frost.
In the Narrative, Volume IV., page 323, the entry reads:	“As the tide had risen so
much as to render it difficult to walk along the beach, we returned to Mr. Frost’s in a crazy canoe, and were very near being upset. Had this accident happened, it must have proved fatal to some of us in the strong tide that was running; we therefore felt much relieved to get again to the beach. After partaking of Mrs. Frost’s good cheer, we returned to Astoria, much pleased with our day’s jaunt.”34
Diary of Wilkes in the Northwest
which are protected by a pallisade made of the Plank some fifteen feet in height placed on their ends in the ground sufficient protection against their enemies from other tribes who formerly made war upon each on the most trivial occasion. These are fast passing away & all their warlike habits is now generally shown in individual revenge. The H. B. Coy. have and do exert upon ail occasions a most salutary influence on them preserving peace at all hazards and in case of the murder of a white in any section of the country they immediately fit out a war part)7 and obtain the murderer, the peace & security in which a white man may now traverse those parts of this country I believe to be owing to the energy and perseverance with which the offenders are hunted up. About a year ago an Indian was executed at Fort George for the murder of a white man while asleep & taking his property he was tried found guilty & executed in the presence of most all of the settlers [Ms. P. 72a] in the Territory and I make no doubt it has had a very salutary effect.
On my way to Mr. Frosts I obtained a Planaria species of Helix saw great numbers of snakes & great quantities of dead fish a kind of [blank] on the beach. Mr. Birnie said they were thrown up in great abundance during the Autumn they are supposed to be killed by a kind of worm generated in the stomach, to this I suppose the naturalist will have paid attention. Mr. Frost has the credit of being a close & stingy man and idle withal.
We returned at 6 P- M. and found Mr. Drayton had been successful in getting some fossil shells in a clay bank about % of a mile above Fort George they will prove extremely interesting as they are none of them now to be found alive.
25th [May.]
Wrote home by the Ship Cowlitz going to the Sd. Ids.61 a short letter to the Secretary, to Dr. Judd & Mr. Bruis Meade. At noon with a strong N. W. Wind & the flood we took our Departure Mr. Drayton and self for Vancouver Mr. Waldron being left for a few days to await the Peacock. Mr. Birnie with true Scotch attention & politeness accompanied us to the Columbia Barque there in sight, but getting out into the midstr. we found more swell than we anticipated and we were obliged to make for the shore at Tongue Pt. here we landed and encamped for the night. We ascended to the top of Tongue Pt- 400 feet to a small hut erected
61 Sandwich Islands.Diary of Wilkes in the Northwest
35
by Mr. Birnie & which was for a year or two inhabited by a Sandwich Islander & his wife being employed there to raise potatoes. The soil is good based on trap rock it is covered with high trees on its banks [Ms. P. 73] This had been supposed I understand one of the best points to fortify on the River, but I see little use in making it such, as far as its being an isolated hill it might be made impregnable.—it could command the channel on that side of the River but the river here is three miles wide and the channel equally good to pass up it and therefore it would be useless—(For the defenses necessary to secure the mouth of the river & to protect the [illegible] see my remarks at Cape Disappointment in the sequel of this Journal).62
Late in the afternoon we got rid63 of Mr. Birnie by signaling for one of the Company’s vessels that was passing and Mr. Drayton & myself betook ourselves to our tent where we passed a comfortable night notwithstanding it rained.
26th [May.]
The morning proved fine and we made an early start for Fort Vancouver and by sunset we had reached about 4 miles above Oak Pt. where we again encamped. In the afternoon we stopped at one of the villages at Oak Pt. for the purpose of obtaining salmon. Here we found the Medicine Man employed and we heard his incantation.
One of our Indians a young chief landed for the purpose of making inquiries relative to the purchase of salmon but he was met in great wrath & with direful looks from all the men who seemed to desire to wreak vengeance upon him for his intrusion his retreat was accordingly precipitate—the consequence to the Indians is generally for this interruption the last of life the medicine man taking the advantage by imputing his failure of a cure to the intrusion during the ceremony and this invariably is followed by [Ms. P- 73a] the death of the Intruder by the relations of the deceased. Plumondon on my inquiring as to the cause of the young chiefs apparent fright & quick retreat told me he was
62	The “sequel” is not located as yet. In the Narrative, Volume IV., page 324, he
speaks of defense and hints that the British were probably looking toward an insurance of title by occupancy. He says:	“Tongue Point is a high bluff of trap rock, covered with
trees of large dimensions: the top has been cleared and taken possession of by Mr. Birnie, who has erected a log hut and planted a patch of potatoes. The hut was inhabited for a year, by a Sandwich Islander and his wife. It is rather a rough spot for cultivation, but the end of occupancy was answered by it.” In the monograph on Hydrography, pages 330-386, the Captain gives great details about the mouth of the Columbia and the safest channels. In 1849, for the California gold seekers, he published his Western America, in which, pages 72-76 are the same or similar details for entering the Columbia. In neither of these sources does he discuss proposed fortifications.
63	An unfortunate reference to one who had been so constant in his helpfulness.36
Diary of Wilkes in the: Northwest
afraid. That he had been placed in similar circumstances a short time before that his father died and the Medicine man had imputed it to a chief of the Klakatacks—whom this young chief shortly afterward shot dead—this has often created wars among the tribes and the only way in which it is overcome is by paying a fair valuation for the deceased—from 5 to 20 blankets according to the estimation in which the deceased was held.
27th [May]
We were awakened this morning at sunrise by the songs of the birds that added no little enchantment to the beauty of the scene around us; the day was beautiful and we advanced with alacrity— the Indians as merry as the birds at night we had reached the Warriors Pt. one of the Points of the Willamette River and we found a place with some difficulty to encamp on the opposite (or North side of the Cola.) in an inlet called the Caliputa. The Columbia has considerably changed in width being not over a J/2 mile wide. The Willamette with lower mouth was about 500 yds. Today we passed the Mount Coffin just below the Cowlitz and also the Coffin Rock so named from these being the principal burying places the canoes in which they are buried are in great numbers they are generally secured between 2 trees about 6 feet above the ground or on stakes & being covered with a great variety of ornaments, gifts brought [Ms. P. 74] by their relatives and friends to hang thereon. I was told that this is frequently done for several months after burial they are as fast going to decay as the living.64
The Columbia was thought to be some 15 feet above its lowest mark, it gives one a good idea of its magnitude when it is thus swelled (but subsequent observations at its lowest state in Sept.) proved to me that to give one a true idea of it, it must be seen both high & low.
Our Indians cunningly kept close to the shore & thus took advantage of all the eddies- On our way today we met a canoe that gave us the Intelligence that one of our Indians had lost Ins child, on our first stopping place (shortly after) he began to scarify himself on the leg in several places until he Lied profusely which being done he lighted his pipe and seemed to smoke for consolation, this was all done apart from the rest, who still continued to make merry. As far as the countenance could be an indication
64 In the Narrative he says the sepulchers were going to decay.Diary of Wilkes in the Northwest
3 7
of grief he felt it, but the next day he was as merry as the rest,, they are lively and gay at their work all have a pleasing expression of countenance, feminine in their looks and lives which they very much partake of in their manners.
Mr. Drayton shot a golden crested pigeon which gave us a supper & after toasting our [illegible] over a large fire we pitched our tent & passed a comfortable night.
28th [May.]
Entered the Calipooya a chain of inland lakes which when the waters of the Columbia are high are connected and afford a passage near the river on the left bank of slack water and thus the strong current of the river is avoided Thro’ these we continued our route within a mile of Vancouver passing the dairy and some fine meadow land with herds of fine cattle grazing [Ms. P. 74a] flocks of sheep of the best English & Spanish breed that yield some extraordinary fleeces.
As it was necessary to make a small portage wilh the canoe Mr. D. & myself determined to walk to the Fort by the dairy road—this was shortly reached through a fine wood of large pines entering the village of Vancouver in its rear. The woods were filled with various flowers the Honeysuckle, lupine, &c. The village consists of some 50 comfortable log houses placed in some order or rows and inhabited by the Company’s servants, swarming with fine looking children half breeds and pure Indians. The Fort consists of several good buildings including dwelling homes & magazines surrounded by a high palisade. Dr. McLoughlin was n^t within we were politely invited in and after remaining a few minutes he came galloping up and gave us a most warm reception ordered dinner for us & made us welcome. He is a fine looking person of robust frame, with a frank open countenance about 50 years of florid complexion his hair white is a Canadian by birth of Scotch parentage enthusiastic in disposition and I should think of great energy of character and well suited for the situation he occupies which requires no small talent and industry to fill.
The fort is situated upon an extensive prairie which is now finder crops of wheat potatoes peas &c. It is the intention I understood to convert it into meadow for grass as the wheat crop is uncertain on account of the overflow by the river & to plant wheat on the upland prairie which is a light soil but I think capable of raising good crops with attention to them. [Ms. P. 75] There are38
Diary of' Wilkes in the Northwest
generally three steps or prairie levels bordering the river of this country, the first about 10 feet above the river at low water, 2nd 200 & 3rd or high prairie 300 the general level of the country where it is not hilly or mountainous—the lower and 2nd is the best soil. The upper for the most part shingly.
It is of about 3000 acres including all that is claimed or thereabouts and is as far as I am able to judge admirably adapted for agriculture grazing &c.
The harvest this year it was understood to yield about 8000 bushels of wheat. The numbers of workmen that are employed here is great many of different mechanical trades and all the materials employed seem of the very best that can be procured. The company’s economy seems to be to have things of the very best kind. Their present stock consists of [blank] horses milch cows [blank] cattle [blank] sheep [blank] hogs. The land does not appear to me tv) be at all superior to that one meets elsewhere, it is extremely well situated and the money & labour expended upon it very considerable- it is probably nowt beginning to yield some returns. It is a new company called the Puget Sound Company65 that owns and carries on the farming or agricultural operation. The stockholders are the gentlemen belonging to the H. B. Co’s establishment. They have the contract to supply the Russian Co.66 with their provisions which gives them a good market for all their produce above what is consumed at the difP. forts in supplying thé II. B- Co. proper although it is not supposed that the low price of contract can yield them any profit yet it is obtained in the Furs obtained by the H. B. Co. on the Territory leased by the Russians and hereafter their flocks & herds will increase [Ms. P. 75a] so much as to make it a very profitable business. The sundry hides & tallow borne by the annual vessels which now go to England with it is thus a valuable cargo but %th of the ships empty—I feel well satisfied that this country is better adapted to the raising of cattle than even California and not so subject to drought, the cattle in consequence of the climate are better able to bear the weather, are larger & stronger- Beef can be packed and butter made. There are few finer Dairy farms than those attached to the Fort at Vancouver and the cattle are in remarkable fine condition. The Com* pany deserves much credit for the introduction of the best breeds from England.
65	The Puget Sound Agricultural Company.
66	A brisk trade was enjoyed with the Russian. American Fur Company in what is now known as Alaska.Diary of Wilkes in the Northwest
39
The Establishment at the Fort is on an extensive scale. They have a table for the Chief Factor and clerks one for their wives--another for the American Missionaries the sick & the Catholic Priest are again furnished separate meals. All is done in order & I should think with some economy. In the establishment is an extensive bakery, coopers Blacksmith trade office for Indian purchases, shops for retail where any articles may be purchased at as low a price if not cheaper than in the U.S. a profit of 80 per cent on the London wholesale price is all to cover expenses. This is increased to 100 per cent at any of the other posts to defray the necessary charges of extra carriage, the articles are all good and principally those suitable to the wants of the settlers. In the office also all the accounts of the Columbia Department including that of New Caledonia are here made up and the furs received & accounts settled which [Ms. P. 76] occasions a large mass of business to pass through the Establishment. Mr. Douglass the associate of Dr. McLaughlin assists in this Department & takes charge of the whole during his absence.
I was introduced here to several of the Missionaries who for the most part make this their home & are extremely kindly and well entertained by the Company at no expense whatever there are usually some ^2 dozen staying with their wives and there have been as many as a dozen At present there are Mr. & Mrs. Smith of the Board of Missions Mr. & Mrs. Griffith, Mr. & Mrs. Clarke of the Self-Supporting Mission, Mr. Waller of the Cola Mission and two others—Mr. and Mrs. Smith have been in the country some 2 years are disgusted with their prospects and will leave for the Sandwich Islands the first opportunity, he declared to me there was no duty for a missionary few Indians and what there are nomadic in their natures and he felt it was but a waste of time to stay in this country his avowed object in leaving however is the health of his wife. All the above with the exception of Mr. Waller came across the mountains they represent the passes through the mountains as by no means difficult and no apprehension of hostile attacks, a deplorable account is given of the dissipation and morals of the fur companies. Mr. Griffith & Clarke are entirely disappointed in their hopes of self support and are now moneyless and were it not for the kindness of the Company would be houseless. I should think them illy adapted for anything—The description of the Tollity valley67 was so favorable that I advised
67 Tualatin Plains, sometimes spelled Twallity.40
Diary of Wilkes in the Northwest
these missionaries to take farms there and exert themselves, it lies next to the Willamette Valley West of it & is separated by the Yam Hills from it subsequently to this at my last visit Mr. Griffith informed me he had taken my advise [Ms. P- 76a] and was much pleased with his prospects. I shall have occasion to speak more fully about the Missionaries when I come to the Willamette Valley settlement.
The view from this Fort is extensive and beautiful a large farm under fine cultivation meets the eye with its extensive granaries and buildings—this fine view winding its way among the untouched forest backed by the distant blue hills and the striking snowy peak of Mt. Hood an object which one seldom tires ;n viewing, all give one the impression that at no distant day it must become thriving with a busy population.68
Dr. McLaughlin showed us the rooms appropriated for us, and told us the bell was the summons to tea or meals.
At tea I was introduced to the gentlemen, some 6 or 7. attached to the establishment—a profusion of good fare served in an ample hall69 Dr*. McL. at the head of the table myself on his right & Mr. Douglass on his left and the others according to their rank I mention this as every one assumes the place to which he is entitled to or given him with almost military etiquette.
All their wants here are now supplied with the exception of groceries. Canadian French is spoken here entirely the servants of the Company being generally of that class & those who come out from England use it.
The house I am quartered in is a log building scaled of one story with French windows & exceedingly comfortable except the bunks instead of bed—that is made of pine boards. This—however one gets used to in a short time—
The routine of a day it is perhaps well to [Ms- P. 77] describe—At early dawn the bell is rung for the working parties and soon after all are at work. The sound of the hammer clink of the anvil and rumbling of cart wheels was a great novelty to us and not an unpleasing one after so long an absence of it and su unlike the notes of the morning in the forests—at 8. the bell is again rung & all go to breakfast at nine they are again at work which continues till one an hour for dinner all dine and again at 6 when the labours of the day close. This is the round of employ-
68	Present day citizens and tourists can appreciate his prophetic Yision.
69	That ample hall has been mentioned by all early writers.Diary of Wilkes in the: Northwest
41
ment and every one is busy indeed. Vancouver is no place for an idle person destitute of amusements except reading.
29 th [May]
We found ourselves comfortably located at Vancouver Several of the Missionaries called upon me found them possessed of little information respecting the country having kept no notes or made any observations relative to the soil temperature climate what observations they did make unsatisfactory explanations about the country and certainly not to be relied on, therefor^ I have put little or no confidence in what I gathered from them to Mr. Drayton I gave the task of obtaining missionary information being much better adapted to such duties than myself (see his report)70 The Walla Walla Grand Ronde and Koocooskees71 now distinct seemed to be more familiar with those gentlemen than other parts They all agree that it is a fine grazing country but that few spots of it are susceptible of farming to advantage; the country is greatly in want of timber. Dr. [Mr.] Douglass & Capt. Varney returned today from the Willamette Mr. Douglass is as I have before said a chief factor he appears a shrewd & intelligent gentleman about 40 years of age tall & good looking with a florid complexion & black hair. I was glad to meet with him, he has had from merit one of the most [Ms. P. 77a] rapid promotions in the company’s service that has taken place having been only [blank] years [blank]72 He has not long since returned from California where he has been making purchases of wheat & cattle also preparing the way to extend this operation into that country by the introduction of merchandise & securing the furs in this district of Territory. Few can compete with them in the introduction of goods little or no expenses being incurred besides what it would be necessary to go to in furtherance of their present duties-
The water of the Columbia rose 18 inches in 12 hours last night and great fears are entertained that the crops on the lower prairies will be destroyed. The usual time for the highest point of the river is in June middle but the heat of the present Summer & Spring is supposed to have brought it to its highest sooner. One can scarcely have an idea of its flow how swollen it Is, and to see the huge trunks of thick gigantic forests borne like chips on us
70	Captain Wilkes incorporated the substance of Drayton’s report in the published Narrative.
71	Indian name for the Clearwater, a branch of Snake River at Lewiston.
72	Another case of leaving spaces for tacts which he failed to fill in. Sir James Douglas later became Governor of Vancouver’s Island.42
Diary of Wilkfs in the: Northwest
bosom astonishes one, they frequently are lodged in some shallow places where they remain for years proving of great detriment to the channel & not unfrequently changing its course entirely and at times of serious inconvenience to its navigation. The Thomas Perkins Brig (Am.) whilst lying near the bank was very much annoyed by them occasionally getting athwart his hawse.
The waters of the Columbia are quite clear & bring no sediment to fertilize the soil and when they come in contact with the crops from their coldness they destroy everything. The temperature of the water whilse the Porpoise was at Vanv. in Sept, was [blank] [Ms. P. 78] Mr. Douglass mentioned as well authenticated facts that the produce of wheat in California was 175. for one & the 2nd years produce without tillage nearly of the same amount (but I shall speak more of this under California).
Company’s store is well supplied with all necessary articles which I had an opportunity of seeing in fitting myself out with camp equipage.
Everything is conducted with great system. The Servants of the Company receive their weekly allowance every Saturday afternoon for this purpose work is stopped at 5 o’clock. One hears great complaints about the allowance of food not only as to its quantity but quality without having any disposition to pry into that [illegible] I could not help perceiving that their complaints were well founded- That is if I take account we in the U. S. judge the rations for a laboring man & I am very well satisfied that no one would put up with its quality . I do trust to hear that their causes of complaints & hardships of their servants will meet one of these days with attention for I am very well satisfied that few or none would be found to complain if it was not for their scanty messes of food and its quality in many cases can say them to use a great part of the money (wages) only £17 a year to obtain things to eat. There are undoubtedly situations in which it is unavoidable in carrying on this business for instance on the outposts, but where plenty is surrounding them on all sides it appears strange that it should be denied them. This is an old custom and probably the council have no desire to change the ration it certainly ought to have been done long since. The Servants of the Company are engaged for 5 years and after that time has expired the Company are under bonds to return them to England or the Canadas in case of cruises. [Ms. P. 78a] They received as I said about 17£ each & are fed when their time expires almost all are in debt conse-Diary of Wilkes in The Northwest
43
quently they are obliged to serve an extra time on the expiration of which they all as formerly have long since married an Indian or have had children & find themselves unable to leave & whilst they so continue they are as it were still bound to the Company and still under their surveillance.
This is also the case with those who desire to remain in this country and settle after the expiration of their terms they take a portion selected by themselves though doubtless by the Company’s counsel & incur debt to them by advances, still holding them under their subjection, for without the Company’s aid and advances they must be ruined all their supplies and whereat to sell their crops is at the Fort, from this results much good for the welfare & condition of the settlement viz those men only who are industrious get along well, they are not allowed to be intemperate no grog is sold them and a watchful eye is kept over them & circumspection maintained of their habits and moral conduct.
Too much cannot be said in praise of the Company in their having done away with the trade in spirits. It is now entirely stopt, and they have very large quantities of it in store at Vancouver sustaining a great loss upon it. Nothing could have been done so well calculated to maintain their ascendancy over their People the Natives and the other settlers as this; and I have been informed since its disuse the settlers have been prosperous and the Natives less quarrelsome.
Dr. McLaughlin gave me the Thermometrical observation for heighths throughout the route to Canada crossing the rocky Mountains. They also stated that [Ms. P. 79] little dependence was to be placed in the veracity of David Douglass the botanist.73 Mr. Douglass the Chief factor stated to me that he believes the observations of Mr. Thompson quoted by Irving in the appendix to Astoria in relation to the heights of the Rocky Mountains may be relied on.
I have passed a pleasant day and had agreeable conversation at the mess table after meals it is the custom to introduce pipes & tobacco it is said the practice is getting [illegible] but I should have concluded it was at its heighth.
73 This entry is disconcerting as the memory of David Douglas is most cordially cherished, especially by those who know about his remarkable work in the field of botany. The context of the Diary may indicate that reference was made to rather exaggerated estimates made by the botanist as to the heights of mountains.44
Diary of Wilkes in the; Northwest
30th [May]
This day was beautiful being Sunday I attended divine Service in the Dining Hall Mr. Douglass read prayers and Mr. Griffith one of the Missionaries gave us a Sermon—stupid man & bad preacher.74
The orphans and breed boys who attended the school under [blank] chanted & sang. They have a chapel in which the Catholic Priest officiates. Dr. McL. and most of the servants of the Company attend it quite a large congregation there does not appear to be any jarring among the different creeds, and the utmost liberality of Spirit exists.
Casenove the Indian chief of the tribe who formerly possessed this portion of the country Calipooyas is still living he is a dependent of the fort’s and has his meals at a side table whenever he chooses to partake of them his usual business is to provide Indians & canoes to dispatch passengers & letters up and down the river. He is represented as a well disposed person, seems to possess little or no influence with his tribe & it is said with what truth I know not—that the Company have purchased all his lands from him for what consideration I am not informed. [Ms. P. 79a]
Mr. Douglass gave me information relative to the Geological formation of the country in a N.E. line as far as Hudson Bay & promised me specimens, viz.,—
Trap formation in the lower or western section to the Cascades, then Bulsallic [basalt?] then Sandstone, quartz, lime stone, granite here & there cropping out of which the central range or Peaks of the Rocky Mountains are composed—thence in a reversed order to Hudson’s Bay.
From all the information he has been able to gather no copper is found south of 59° N. in this territory where the pure copper is found in abundance and which the natives beat in large sheets that are articles of trade on the coast & are there sometimes met with by the traders.
Coal is said to be found near the foot of the Rocky Mountains, on the Cowlitz and at Vancouver Island specimens of the two latter I have seen and obtained that of the Cowlitz Lignite, but from Vancouver Island it is a good quality of bituminous coal.75
74	In most cases, the frank judgments in the Diary were omitted or toned down in the published Narrative.
75	One of the early references to coal in the Pacific Northwest.Diary of Wilkes in the Northwest
45
The tumuli found on the prairies are ascribed by the Indians to the effects of water there is no tradition of them measures of one taken by Mr. Douglass was 30 ft. in diameter and 10 feet high one has been opened by the company but nothing found in it, subsequetly as I have elsewhere written I opened 3 others and dug deep in the one mentioned above but was not more successful in making discovries.76 [Ms. P. 80]
The smaller tributaries of the Cola. below the Cascade range of Mountains risei in early spring but the Cola. itself rises in the beginning of Summer caused by the melting of the snows on the Rocky Mountains.
The salmon fishing is now in its most active operations at the Cascades & Willamette falls and this draws the Indian population far and near to it. the tribe in whose territory or limits they are exact a tribute to all who fish, the general average price of a salmon is 10 cents tho’ this will depend very much upon the wants of the Indians. They refuse to sell any Salmon until after the first run and then always without the heart they have many superstitions in relation to them some of which I will give from the best authority I could derive them, but I am nevertheless well satisfied that there are very few who can understand these languages sufficiently to obtain them & I further believe that very few of the Indians now living are aware of or have any knowledge of their traditional stories. [Ms. P. 80]
Mr. Drayton & myself making a copy of a manuscript chart of this section of the country.
31st May.
Mr. Douglass was kind enough to carry me over the whole establishment Great system evident in all the departments & I felt well satisfied that without it little or no profits would be realized in the Fur or Indian trade at least on this side of the Mountains the supplies and incident expenses to the service & duties to be performed, the waste &c. &c. must render it now a very precarious business, the Fur trade, as far as I was enabled to gather from the happiest, those engaged in it having fallen off 50 per ct indeed so as to make scarcely worth while to follow it.
The granary to which we passed contains wheat flour, barley, buckwheat it is said wheat averages 63 lbs. the bushel. Barley
76 Geologists have mentioned eighteen possible explanations of those tumuli, the most plausible referring to glacial origin. The region now known as Mound Prairie was by Wilkes called Bute Prairies. See the Narrative, Volume IV., page 313, or Meany's Origin of Washington Geographic Names, page 173.46
Diary of Wilkfs in thf Northwest
gives 20 bushels to the acre Buckwheat yields a good crop some seasons it is by no means certain owing to early frosts oats do not thrive well Peas, Beans, Potatoes yield generally abundantly, lyittle or no hay is made the cattle being enabled to feed all the winter nor do they require shelter thus 2/3rds of a farmer’s time is saved and the difference of labour may be fairly estimated in the wasted hours there, by this fact.
Rode with Mr. Douglass to see the Fort Dairy, the ride was a beautiful one through fine prairies with large trees (oaks, & ash) grouped over them and the quantities of cattle feeding & at repose gave a civilisation to the scene that this country along [alone] wants to add to its natural beauties, the chain of Rakes before spoken of gave an extensive water view to the scene.77 The Dairy is removed every year, thus the manure & wear of meadows is equally divided, this is likewise the case with [Ms. P. 81] the feeding of sheep. I was told they have now about 300 brood mares, about 2500 sheep 3000 cattle, there were 70 milch cows at the dairy it seems well conducted by a Canadian his wife & 3 men They supply the milk & cream to the establishment and a large part of the butter for the Russian Company78 is put up here, some cheese—, the cattle all look well, {the churning is by a barrel machine—) not killing any they rapidly increase.
To give some idea of the system of the Company and to accts. for their seeming great profits I will state here that they have all their articles classed—viz in articles of gratuity, those of trade and purchase—the first consists of knives & tobacco—2nd of blankets, gun powder & shot—clothes &c. 3rd. of sheets, handkerchiefs, beads, ribbons &c. &c. from this many persons who are told of the vast profits &c of the Company imagine that they get their valuable furs for a mere trifle—but this is seldom or never the case The Indians & settlers understand well the worth of each article and are not inclined to give it for less than its real value and a present to boot. Those who trade in this country are obliged to give or make allowances to trappers to obtain their services and to such a wreckless79 set as they are little opportunity of getting returns is practicable unless the persons are driven by
77	Since Preston’s Map of 1856 the large lake has heen charted Vancouver Lake and its connecting waterway Lake River. See Meany’s Origin of Washington Geographic Names, pages 139 and 325.
78	On August 11, 1799, the United American Company was reorganized under the name of Russian American Company and that name was retained under the new charter of 1802. See Bancroft’s History of Alaska3 pages 379 and 416.
79	The spelling is corrected in the Narrative, Volume IV., page 333.Diary of Wilkes in the Northwest	47
necessity to follow the same trail of life. The Company in order to avoid losses by the desertion of their men generally send them in large parties from 30 to 40. When they take their wives & families with them and trap during the season on some favorable ground where they remain for the season, they leave in October & return again by May or June. They usually trap on shares & this is according to the skill of the trappers.
All the packages for transportation in this country are made up of 90 lbs. weight for the convenience of transportation across portages &c. & it is inconceivable the ease with which a voyageur will run off with several of them. [Ms. P. 81a]
Mr. Douglass having traveled extensively in this country being observing and having improved his opportunities of making enquiries related some customs of the northern Indians Truly remarkable among them are relating to the Telloles80 or Carrier Indians as respects their dead. On the death of a Husband the body is laid on the funeral pile burnt and their ashes preserved by the wife if she survives the experience she is subjected to— They are not burnt with their husbands, but are required to attend his body until it is consumed and to keep constant by patting his breast until the whole is consumed which severely burns them always, and are suffered to fall into the flames if his relatives do not withdraw her in time, they remain until the body is entirely consumed gather up the ashes and are obliged to carry them about for the period of 3 years during all which time they serve as slaves to the husband's relatives.
And what appears to render this practice more remarkable is the fact that all the nations, or tribes around these bury their dead about 3 feet below the ground covering the body carefully with boards to prevent its being hurt.
The above tribe dwell in the Interior East of Fort Simpson in about Eat. 56 North.
The Calipooyas tribe residing south of the Cola. and along the Willamette Valley bury their dead ornamenting the grave with poles, or with an affixed calabash, pots, pans &c. &c. whilst those North of and on the river place theirs in canoes above ground. [Ms. P. 82]
In connection with this river are its prairies along it in some places they are of large extent with arms of the river flowing through them in various directions which are sufficiently deep
80 The Bureau of American Ethnology in Handbook of American Indians, Part 2, pages 675-676, described this tribe under the name of Takulli.48
Diary of Wilkfs in Northwest
for boat navigation They are admirably adapted to grazing purposes, but for agriculture the farmer would be in continual apprehension of losing his crop and always will sow in uncertainy on account of the rise of the river, in the proportion to which the water rises on the wheat it perishes so that unless the Wheat should be actually overtopt a small harvest might be expected (seed wheat). It cannot but appear remarkable that a river of so great an extent should have no sediment, but the contrary. I understand as far as experience has gone it rather proves to exhaust or deteriorate the soil.
In many places in the lower prairies quicksand exists which causes occasional slips of soil carrying with them trees of huge dimensions which are finally carried to the ocean to be in time lodged on some remote or Savage Island supplying his wants for the necessary means to construct his canoe. That part of the soil which is not rock on the river is a light sandy one through which the water on its rise in the Cola. percolates through, and overflows the low parts of the meadows adjoining. I Ms. P. 82a] June 1st, 1841.
Had today a long conversation with two of the Missionaries Messrs. Clark and Griffin, (self supporting system) They stated that they were very much disappointed with the country and the only fit place they said for settlement in the Upper Country was the Grande Rounde prairie situated between the Headwaters of the Grande Rounde and Powder Rivers. Some 20 miles in extent this is about 60 miles to the Eastward of Walla Walla. The information they gave relative to the Population was about 10,000 West of Mountains.
Dr. McLaughlin & Mr. Douglass rate it about the same south of 50° some however rate it as high as 25,000. The following I believe the most correct data, and is obtained from a variety of sources & in some cases counted from my own information estimated upon the ability of the country to afford support and its offering the necessary facility for subsistence in their mode of life.
Population.
Vancouver Island ..............5000
between 50° & 54°.40’ N........2000
7000
Clapest, & intermediate coast........... 1250Diary of WilkFs in the: Northwest	49
Clalams— (Port Dis.) 150 (N. Dung.
? 200 Port Tow ? 70)................ 425
Birch Bay .............................. 300
Frazer’s River ......:................ 500
Penn’s Cove & Whidby’s Isl.............. 650
Hood’s Canal ........................... 500
Nisqually .............................. 200
Port Orchard & Admiralty Inlet.......... 150
Chekilis & Puget Sound.................. 700
11,675
[Ms. P. 83]
brought forward ................ 11675
Cowlitz—including the head waters of
Chekalis & also the Head waters of
Cowlitz. (Klakatuck tribe)........... 350
Chinooks ................................. 209
Clatsops including [blank]................ 220
Pillar rock oak Pt. & Cola. River......	300
Canadn.................................... 150
Dalles Mr. Lee’s letter................... 250
Shutes river ............................. 125
Walla Walla including the Nez Perces [illegible] &c to the south and
west of it.......................... 1100
Yakima River ............................. 100
Cola. River between Walla Walla &
Okanogan ............................ 350
At and about Okanogan..................... 200
The tribes about Spokane Colville & adjoining tribes. Towards the
mountains—Flat Heads ................ 650
Willamette throughout the valley.......	275
Muqua .................................... 400
Rogues ................................... 500
Clamets .................................. 300
Shasty ..................................  500
Kalapuyas ................................ 600
Killamouch, this side the Muqua river..	400
Black feet tribes that make excursions West of Mountains and who oc-50
Diary of Wilkes in the Northwest
cupy the Buffalo Country............. 1000
Total west of Mountains & in
territory81 ...................... 19,644
There is a tribe called the Knikla; on the Sacramento River and adjoining the Shasty Indians supposed to be about 1500 souls.
The whole Oregon territory may therefore be set down as containing not over 20,000 inhabitants.
The whites in the country including the servants of the Hudson's Bay Company & officers 350. [Ms. P. 83a]
Mr. Smith (Miss'y.) has been 3 years in the country resided part of the time at Sopkane & with Dr. Whitman has known the temperature 30° below zero in winter and at 100 above in Summer. The country remarkably healthy grass green in Feby—& the pasturage for cattle good requires no housing they feed upon the tufts of grass that by the heat of the sun are converted if I may so express it into natural hay.82
Dr. Whitman of same mission has had difficulty with the Indians as respects his water power or rights for the irrigating the soil.83 The Indians after granting him the privilege and becoming aware of the use he made of it diverted it from him to their own use they are intelligent and when they see an improvement readily adopt it.
In the afternoon rode with Mr. Douglass to the Flour and Saw Mills84 the first is about 5 miles from the Fort but has one run of stones, is well built of timber but in consequence of the heighth of the River causing back water it was not in action, it is amply sufficient for the wants of the country at present— The Saw Mill is 2 miles farther and likewise on the Banks of the Col\ and owing to the same circumstance of being placed too low part of the season it is out of use it has several runs of Saws and is as fine a pile as I have seen anywhere, and in few countries could such material be procured for the framing of any building all of its frame timber is [blank] feet in height squaring [blank] feet. The description of timber used for cutting into
81	The statistics are valuable, comprising one of the most complete compilations up to that time. A slight revision was made in the published Narrative, Volume V., pages 140-141, the total there being 19,354. Some of the names are spelled differently in the published table.
82	Those familiar with the later cattle days will smile over this early reference to bunch grass.
83	Undoubtedly the first irrigation in the Pacific Northwest. See Meany’s History of the State of Washington, pages 302-303.
84	Here reference is made to the begininng of two great industries of the Pacific Northwest.Diary of Wilkes in the; Northwest
51
boards is far inferior to what we should deem merchantable in the United States being of the quality or little better than our hemlock. [Ms. P. 84]
All the hardwood plank or boards that may be required is yet cut by hand. Brig Wave was here taking on lumber for Sandwich Islands. The boards sell at Oahu for 80$ the thousand could not ascertain their costs about 20 men are employed at this moment at the Mill some Sandwich Islanders & Canadians. They have a large blacksmith shop here whereat all the axes or hatchets for the trappers are made, the Iron & steel being imported. They are manufactured at a much less price and such as they can depend upon, it may appear somewhat surprising to some that a trapperis axe is his support and in it his success depends, for on its loss or breaking the trapper relinquishes his labours & returns without furs. One man can manufacture 50 of these daily 25 is said to be his labour. They are eagerly sought after by the Indians who are extremely particular that it should be of a particular shape.85
From the mills we passed through the forest to the High Prairie and rode over it to one of the sheep walks—the soil is rather light but with manure will yield a good crop. These prairies are indeed beautiful covered with fine pines of gigantic heights, some whose branches are nearly touching the green sward, with oaks, maples, fir, & cedar, with intervening spaces of prairie covered with Columbines.
Lupines & Kamass flowers all seeming in the utmost order as if man had been ever watchful of its beauty and cultivation. We returned to the Fort by the High lands through the woods, saw the herds which had been driven from the low prairie or meadows on account of the rise of the water they add much to the interest & beauty of the scene. A certain number of broodmares are assigned to each horse who is ever mindful of his flock keeping them from straying and ever jealous of them, most of the mares with young colts or with fold [foal]. We returned to the fort just at [Ms. P. 84a] sunset, and it was such a sunset as reminded one of home the air mild and a pleasant breeze from the West Mount Hood showed in all its glory overtopping the purple haze of the coming night. A long ride of some 20 miles
85 In the Narrativej, Volume IV., page 336, Wilkes says about the particular shape, “somewhat like a tomahawk.”52
Diary of Wilkes in the Northwest
good horses and little fatigue. Had some pleasant conversation with the Dr. & Mr. D.86 at their hospitable board.
A small manual labour school is kept here for the education of the orphans & breeds of the Company’s servants and will be of much service to the rising flock. There are at present 23 boys. An examination of them was had altho they did not prove very expert at their exercises in reading & writing yet it gave sufficient evidence of their improvement to show that they were in a fair way to acquire the rudiments & some allowance was to be made as they had been for some weeks constantly employed in the field under their teachers. Dr. McE. estimated the work of 4 boys equal to that of a man. it was an interesting sight to see these little fellows side by side of all shades of color from the pure Indian to that of the white they all speak English and french, they are duly interested in the religious exercises in which I thought they were more proficient than in the other branches. These they are instructed in on Sundays and attend divine service in the Hall twice.
It was pleasing to see the interest that Dr. McE. & Mr. Douglass took in them and much credit is due to them for their snatching as it were these castaway boys from the vices & idleness of the savage life, much has been said about the disregard to morals & vices of this Company and I feel myself in justice to them to say that as far as my observation went to bear testimony to this and many other acts that will prove to the contrary—I must first [Ms. P. 85] bear testimony that the officers of the Hon. Compy. service have not only quieted the country but their operations have been so admirably conducted that they have opened the country to safe and secure emigration, and provided it with the means necessary to the success of emigrants, and rendered the task an easy one to its peaceful possession and at a very moderate expense, a small force at any central point would in my opinion be sufficient to insure its tranquility and due protection to its settlers in any part of it.
2 & 3rd June.
I had a visit from one of a party of 8 young Americans who after a years stay in the territory are discontented and intend to leave for California. They are building a boat on the Willamette but find themselves without nails canvass rigging &c. I ad-
6« The diarist frequently uses such abbreviations. In this case he refers to Dr. John McLoughlin and James Douglas.Diary of Wilkfs in thf Northwest
53
vised them to take passage to the Islands but this not suiting their views they declined to take. I promised however to visit their place on may way up the Willamette.
We intended to have left today (3d) but it proved stormy and we deferred our departure. The storm was from S. E. and quite violent and went around by South to N.W. when it cleared this storm was felt at the Ship at Nisqually87 it was rather unusual this time of year.
Dr. Mcly. related to me the curious manner in which the wreck of a Japanese Junk was discovered a year since on the coast near cape Flattery, a small piece of rice paper was brought by an Indian on which was sketched a Junk crushed on the land and three figures standing near enquiry was set on foot, the fact proved true and subsequently an expedition was sent out the three Japanese removed who had been held in slavery by the Indians and to whom a ransom was paid, they were sent to England and thence to Canton & Japan but were refused permission to land & are now in Canton under the Missionaries.88 [Ms. P. 85a]
The following table was furnished me by Dr. McL. of Thermometrical Observations on a journey across the Rocky Mountains to ascertain the comparative heights of the different points or encampments in August Sep. & Oct. 1839—viz.
Water Boils Height
Aug.	29	Edmonton	207	2556
Sept.	22	Jaspers House	204.5	3867
Sept.	29	Campt. D’Origal	203.5	4391
Sept.	30	Campt. De Fusil	201	5716
Sept.	30	Punch Bowl	198	7324
Sept.	30	Head of Grande Cote	202	5185
Oct.	1	Bottom of Grande Cote	204	4131
Oct.	3	Boat Encampment	205	3607
Oct.	8	Colville	208	2049
Oct.	14	Walla Walla	209.5	1286
In the Upper Country no wood is found except along the streams and in the Mountains No birch or Maple (Hard) is to be found on the West side of the Mountains.
Dr. McLaughlin stated to me that the N. West Company
87 This entry is additional evidence that Wilkes wrote his Diary from field notes.
88 Two years after the Diary was written, or in 1843, Washingotn Irving placed a record of the wreck of this Japanese junk in the appendix to his Adventures of Captain Bonneville in the form of a letter from Nathaniel J. Wyeth. The letter is alos reproduced in Meany’s History of the State of Washington, page 70.54
Diary of Wilkes in the Northwest
had offered to retransfer their trade to John J. Astor or for him to assume an interest in the trade on N. W. coast which he declined This fact I believe is not mentioned by the author of Astoria.89 [Ms. P. 86]
4th June
This morning the weather was fine and we had during the day only an occasional shower—At noon Mr. D. & myself took our departure for the Willamette Settlement. Dr. McL. having furnished me with a boat and 9 men with everything that could render our traveling agreeable and supply our wants. I had thought myself well supplied with camp Equipage & things necessary from their stores but his kindness suggested many things that we were ignorant of & proved of great service & convenience to us & obviating all the delays vexations we should have otherwise have met with. Our boat or batteaux was the ordinary one of the flat-bottom kind and for boating on the river capable of containing about 300 bushels of wheat and admirably adapted for the purpose being flat bottom & of little draft of water. On the present occasion it was lined with mats and secured us against the showers as well as giving us space to move about in & with so strong a crew we felt satisfied we could contend with rapids falls & Portages.
About 15 miles below the Falls we stopped at the Encampment of Revd. Mr. Lee the head of the Oregon Mission with his wife & mother Maj. G. W. Whitwell & wife. Mr. Lee is an ordinary looking man and from what I have subsequently seen unfit for his situation. He did well enough when he had the management of a small Set. but his mind is not sufficiently comprehensive neither has he the ability to manage as large mission as it is at present. The conversation we had was not of much import. We were going one way, they the opposite, we told all the news we had on both sides & separated90 Mr. L. giving me a warm invitation [Ms. P. 86a] to visit the Willamette Settlement. They were encamped on the river banks annoyed with musquitoes & sandflies—being Methodists however they were used to such accommodations before they left the U. States.
89	This significant statement may in time become more definitely documented. It holds a temptation to speculate on what changes in hitsory might have evolved if the offer was genuine and if Astor had accepted it.
90	It has always been understood that Rev. Jason Lee and the other missionaries were not very cordial toward Wilkes. He had been enjoying the hospitality of the Hudson’s Bay Company officers at the very time that the missionaries and other Americans were attempting to form the Provisional Government fo Oregon. Mr. Lee certainly did not go out of his way to meet Wilkes.Diary of Wilkes in the Northwest
55
The Willamette is generally about l/i of a mile wide for about 4 miles from its entrance into the Cola. the banks are low and during the freshet overflow the water was backed into the Willamette & we found little current to contend with. Afterwards they became high and precipitous, in very few places susceptible of cultivation. At Sunset we encamped on one of the Island (Oak Island) Near by the Young Americans who are building their boat who had crossed the country about a year since & resided in the Willamette They were 8 in numbers, and are disgusted with the country and determined to quit it at all hazards everybody that I heard speak of them gave them a good name. They are now building their boat, one among them having served sometime at that business The rest all assist in it. They have chosen a good spot for it in an oak grove, and their cedar of which the planking is made is also near at hand. They seem industrious and full of spirit and although difficulties apparently the most insurmountable are before them yet they have no fear but what they will all be overcome. I found them in difficulty with Dr. McL,. as when one had gotten articles under false pretenses and he very properly refused to let them have any more. I represented this in its proper light and justified Dr. McL,. and also advised them if it were true as they expressed that they have had no hand in the deception to call [Ms. P. 87] and tell him so, and I was sure he would do everything in his power. This they subsequently did and received every assistance that lay in his power to give.
I felt proud to witness the spirit they evinced & the buoancy of spirit with which they carried on their plan so truly in character with their countrymen.
Subsequently to my leaving the Cola. they wrote me asking a sea letter for their protection and informed me their boat was launched, met their expectations and was called the Star of Oregon.91
There is large qauntities of this oak (white) in about the
91 The story of the Star of Oregon is an interesting chapter in Northwestenr History. It is beautifully told in Bancroft’s History of Oregon, Volume I., pages 247-248. The names of the eight young men are Joseph Gale, Felix Hathaway, Henry Wood, R. L. Kilbome, Pleasant Armstrong, John Green, George Davis, and Charles Matts. One of the number, Henry Wood, seems to have given offense and was expelled from the company. Wilkes succeeded in compromising matters and presuaded Doctor McLoughlin to sell the necessary rigging. A successful voyage was made to California where the schooner was sold, cattle was purchased and the young men returned to Oregon driving the cattle with them. The leader or captain was Joseph Gale. Two years later he was one of the Executive Committee of three serving in place of a governor under the Provisional Government of Oregon. His daughter, Mrs. Frances Ellen (Gale) Page, after a remarkable life of many years, died in Seattle in the present year, 1925. Her biography was published in the Seattle Post-Intelligencer on May 29, 1920. On that occasion she related much of the history of her distinguished father.56
Diary of Wilkes in the Northwest
Willamette Valley and is applied not only to the use for which we apply oak but also to those of hickory it is the only timber that is considered here durable enough its specific gravity is much greater than that of water.
5th June.
We reached the Willamette falls here we found another of the Missionaries settled and in competition with the H. B. Co. in putting up salmon for the market or sale his name is Mr. Waller.92 He does little from his own account with the Indians and is at war with the Catholic priest about the . . . the latter having from his account gotten the ascendancy. Mr. W/s wife is one of those peculiar bodies that will not suffer any part of her house to be soiled many minutes, although all is of the roughest material. Her management of her cooking stove fairly excited my admiration, no engineer ever knew his engine better or could manage it with more adroitness. She well knew on which side the heat was operating & by a proper turning gesture &c. &c. dinner was served consisting of salmon, Tea & bread & butter it evidently showed the woman's determination to carry what she had been brought up to along with her [Ms. P. 87a] in whatever part of the world she might go. After we had partaken of this our repast, Mr. Waller took me to see the falls & the situation for—mills that had been selected by the Company who have gone to considerable expense in blasting the rock for a mill race, for what reason I know not but the work has been left untouched as I understand for some years.93 Mr. Slacum has had a house built at this point to secure the mill site. An old man by the name of Moore had effected what he terms the purchase of the opposite side of the River.
The falls of the Willamette are 20 feet in height and the water is sometimes so high in the river as to make it possible to run them [the falls] with canoes but this must be seldom the case. We were much diverted with the salmon leaping the falls it is inconceivable how they have force enough to stem the water, about one in 10 would succeed leaping out of the foam beneath and jumping about 2/3ds. up passing as it were the apex of running water those that did so got by, but all who
92	Rev. Alvan F. Waller, one of the large reenforceinent that had arrived on the Lausanne in 1840.
93	Frederick V. Holman has discussed definitely and at length Dr. McLoughlin’s Land Claim in his Dr. John McLoughlin, beginning at page 101. The injustice involved is a sad memory for Oregon pioneers. Mr. Holman has there rendered a real service in setting down the record after the manner of a trained lawyer.Diary of Wilkes in the Northwest
57
fell short, were thrown back into the Basin beneath.94 Great knots of Lamprey eels were to be seen worming themselves up the rocks.
The scenery here is pretty, the Rocks are all volcanic scoria & pudding stone mixed with trap many quartz crystals are found in the rocks.
Mr. Moore took this rock for veritable Iron ore and was making his boasts of the prize he had got & of his intention to erect Iron furnaces, &c, &c.
At the falls we made a portage & took another boat similar to the one we left below the falls. [Ms. P. 88]
We embarked in a heavy shower of rain for Camp du Sable,95 but we found the current very different from what we had hitherto experienced and made but little progress unless in the eddies which we crossed & recrossed the river to take advantage of. The river is from 1000 to 1200 feet in width at this part of it with its banks high—we encamped just beyond the Stony Islands about 5 miles above the falls. Several mosses and flowers were picked up here which were new.
6th June
We proceeded on about 7 o’clock and did not beach untill about 4 P.M. The current we found strong some 3 miles an hour and our boat heavy. The river was not high although the late rains had swelled it a little its usual time of flooding is early in the Spring Feby. and March when it rises to a great heighth as also all its tributaries of which it has many. It was raining when we arrived and we went to a house of Mr. Johnston96 and although at another time we should have refused his hospitality yet the wetness of everything and the discomfort in encamping out in such weather, which overcame all our scruples of fleas, &c. &c. Johnston gave us a warm welcome and all he could do was done to make us comfortable. I found he had been in the Constitution
94	This account of the salmon overcoming a natural obstruction is the more interesting now as fish ladders and fish elevators are being built to help salmon over dams built for power and irrigation projects.
95	The place is later referred to as “Camp Maude du Sable or Champooing, ’’ evidently the famous Champoeg where Oregon pioneers, led by George H. Himes, have erected a monument marking the place where the field meetings decided in favor of the Provisional Government of Oregon on May 2 and again on July 5, 1843. The place is on the Willamette River about 32 miles above Portland. As Judge Charles H. Carey, History of Oregon, page 418, points out, the “Maude” is superfluous and arose from a misunderstanding of “Campement du Sable” when spoken by French tongues.
96 Probably William Johnson, who had served as High Sheriff in the attempted Provisional Government of 1841. The crisis bringing forward that attempt was the necessity of probating the estate of Ewing Young, who had died without known heirs, in February, 1841. After that business was satisfactorily adjusted the settlers were doubtful about continuing their government. As here related they were anxious to obtain the advice of Captain Wilkes.58
Diary of Wilkfs in the: Northwest
during the last war and was anxious to peruse his letters over again. he has a picture of Old Ironsides hung up in his house also. He is married to a full blood Indian whom he calls his woman & has several children by her, and is extremely useful about the house but little or no cleanliness is evinced. he has 2 slaves of what tribes of Indians I did not learn, all his neighbors some half a dozen in number called to see me They are what one might expect to see in this country. I found them all agog about laws & legislatures, with [Ms. P. 88a] governors, judges, & the minor officers all in embryo and understood they were only waiting my arrival to act in the business & that they had appointed a Committee to wait upon me.
Cannon, one and I believe the only remaining one of the followers of Lewis & Clarke97 that is in the country was here. He likes the country but “thinks there is no necessity for Dr. McL. authority or laws to govern it.” Old Moore98 exceedingly talkative has sense, or shrewdness and much information about the country he has passed through. He crossed the Mountain last year, says he found no difficulty in the trip, and intends to return, & bring out his family—is of opinion the country is a fine one and exceedingly healthy, and will compare with Missouri & Illinois in parts the great want in the upper country he thinks is wood.
I found this as I said before a dirty house and idle people it is said to be the best in the Settlement, however passed an uncomfortable night, felt the fleas & other vermin. Drayton uneasy but we were forced to put up with these quarters all the settlers, I have yet seen are uncombed, unshaven, and a dirty clothed set.
Found this country well timbered from the falls up to the camp Maude du Sable, it may be said here that the Willamette Valley begins as the hills were made—on either side leaving the prairies which form it— It appears a fruitful country and the soil a rich clayey loam & capable of producing anything with industry. [Ms. P. 89]
97	This seems to be an error. William Cannon was probably the only American
who had remained in Oregon after Astoria had been sold to representatives of the North West Company of Montreal. H. H. Bancroft, in History of Oregon, Volume I., page 74, after mentioning a number of French Canadians of the Astor expedition who had remained in Oregon, says:	“William Cannon, a Virginian, and a soldier from Fort
Mackinaw, settled on the west side of the Willamette River, opposite the falls, and lived to the age of 99 years, dying in 1854.” The statement by Wilkes that Cannon was of the Lewis and Clark party has been followed by others, but reference to the Elliott Coues Lewis and Clark, Volume I., pages 253-258, shows that the complete roster of the expedition includes no one of that name.
98	For a study of this pioneer see “Robert Moore in Oregon History,” by J. Orin Oliphant, in the Washington Historical Quarterly, Volume XV., pages 163-186.Diary of Wilkfs in the: Northwest
59
7th [June]
We found horses here in waiting for us under charge of Michel La Framboise" who was exceedingly civil and perhaps better acquainted with the country than any one in it. He originally came out in the Tonquin and has been residing here ever since in the employ of the Company. He has travelled in all parts, among all tribes and says he has a wife in every tribe. From him I have derived much information and all agree that he well knows the country. I was therefore glad to meet with him again, and we rode off through the settlement of the valley towards the Mission. We stopt, for a few hours at the residence of Mr. Bachlet100 the catholic priest who received us very kindly he has a large farm under cultivation and may be termed the head of the Canadians &c in the Valley to whose spiritual & temporal wants he pays great attention to and from the appearance that exist discernible in and about the habitations of these people I believe he is doing much good. We spoke about the Laws that they were desirous of establishing (but he objected to them and having much the largest numbers refused to cooperate, and was of opinion that the numbers and country embracing the Willamette could not warrant the establishment of them.
We dined with him on porridge venison strawberries & cream which though simple country fare was given with so much good feeling & kind deportment that it made it doubly welcome—even to a hungry person. The Chapel is here established & capable of containing the congregation. The country is too level for beauty and as rich an alluvial soil as can well be conceived. After leaving the Mission we rode through the line of Settlements to the American Mission at its extreme and there we were kindly received by Mr. [Ms. P. 89a] Mr. Abemethy101 the Secular Agent of the Mission—he is living in the Hospital or what is known as such though it appears to have been converted in dwellings now for the Missionaries, in passing to it we went past the Mission so termed or the first log huts put up by the [illegible] near this were some work shops & some large fields enclosed that I was told produced about 25 bushels to the acre, but I was very much struck with the want of repair in which I found all the premises even to
99	H. H. Bancroft, History of Oregon, Volume I., page 74, lists Michel La Framboise as one who remained from the Astor expedition and calls him “the leader of the southern annual trapping parties to California, who was so attentive to Kelley when sick. He settled on the west side of the Willamette.”
100	Evidently Father (afterwards Archbishop) Francis Norbet Blanchet.
101	George Abernethy, who, in 1845, became Governor under the Provisional Government of Oregon.60
Diary of Wilkes in the Northwest
the Hospital the best building in all the Territory and I felt no little concern to see the threshing machine that had been furnished by the community at home lying stowed in the public road over which all the travel passed.
Mrs. Abernethy we found pretty & pleasing & gave us such hospitality as we would receive at home. I thought her rather out of place in this country & community. Dr. Babcock102 the Physin. lives near by to whom we paid a visit in the Evg. he appears to be comfortably lodged. He stated to me the country was in his opinion healthy that during this season they are subject to the ague & fever on the low grounds but the high & dry situation, he believed free from it, few other diseases existed and those of a mild character and easily yielded to simple remedies.
A committee waited on us of 5. principally the lay brothers of the Mission to consult and ask my advice relative to the establishment of the Laws after hearing attentively all the arguments that were produced in favour of it, and which as I think might be summed up in a few words having no substantial reasons for it, crimes do not appear to have been comimtted as yet & the [Ms. P. 90] persons & property of the settlers is fully secure it appeared to me that their reasons were principally that it would give them more importance in the eyes of others and induce in their opinion settlers to flock thereby raising the value of their farms and stock. Seeing this view of the subject I disagreed with them entirely in the necessity and policy of adopting any 1st. Because of their want of right, and those wishing for laws were in fact a minority of the settlers.
2nd. By their own accounts they were not necessary yet.
3rd. They would be a bad substitution for their moral code, which they now all follow, and that few who were disposed to do wrong would be willing to settle near a community of whom a large portion was opposed to evil doing.
4th. The great difficulty there would be in enforcing the laws, and defining the limits over which they should extend, would the Hudson B. Company be willing to enter into their enactment? Respect the Laws? No.
5th. Not being the act of the Majority, & the larger part of the population being Catholics they must at once produce discord, & be of great detriment or injury to the settlement.
102 Dr. I. L. Babcock as Supreme Judge under the Provisional Government of 1841, had successfully probated the estate of Ewing Young.Diary of Wilkes in the Northwest
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6th. Besides I thought it would produce an unfavorable impression at home hearing the missionaries were alone in making the request for laws thereby admitting that in a community avowedly brought together & under their control they had not enough moral force to prevent crime, & therefore must have recourse to a criminal code.103. From my observation I was well satisfied they were unnecessary and could not avoid drawing their attention to the fact that after all the various offices were filled there would be no subjects for the law to deal with. These arguments had the desired effect, for I understand [Ms. P. 90a.] they have been entirely dropped since.104
8th [June]
Dr. Babcock and others called upon us this morning tendering an invitation from the settlers of the Willamette to the Squadron to celebrate the 4th of July with them. This was declined by myself on account of the various duties and impossibility of complying with it.
We were shown the Missionary garden but it appeared to me to want attention and that great requisite to a kitchen garden labour. Vegetables appear to grow here well—and very early.
The best garden in the territory or this Valley that I saw belongs to Dr. Bailey, who told me it was the work of his wife it gave me a better idea what could be done in this country by attention and moderate labour than anything I have met with. The whole premise bespoke industry Scarcely witnessed elsewhere.
After Breakfast the gentle11, of the Mission proposed a ride to the Mill some 9 miles in a N. E. direction which I was glad to take. We rode over several fine prairies the high & low the soil varies considerably from clayey loam to a gravelly & light soil on the upper prairies the whole however may be termed good land though not as well timbered as I was led from description to suppose. Several fine views of Prairie Scenery but inferior to those about Nisqually in Beauty. At noon we reached the Mill where I was told I should see the Missionary operations Indian school &c. &c. which was in fact my principal object in making the visit. I
103	Judge Charles H. Carey, in his recent History of Oregon (1922) on page 372,
discusses this interview and adds:	“Wilkes here curiously overlooked the civil aspect of
government, which was indeed the phase that had been called to critical attention, and he dwelt exclusively on restraint of crime, that was the matter of relatively lesser moment.”
104	Such efforts were dropped for a time but -were renewed in 1843 and the Provisional Government then continued until the United States established Territorial Government in 1849.62
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was greatly disappointed. Some 25 ragged & half clothed Indian boys of large size were lounging about under the trees. Their appearance was anything but pleasing. A small mill [Ms. P. 91] worked by a small stream together with a small frame 2 story house occupied one corner of an extensive Prairie surrounded by some fine old oaks gave the whole at a distant and first view the appearance of an old settlement and a thrifty one from the numerous piles of lumber that was seen about the mill for in connexion with its run of stone they use it as a sawmill also The whole is quite small but fully adequate to the extent of power they have 15 bushels a day is as much flour as they can grind. This however supplies all their wants & part of those of the Settlement. I understood this is contemplated as the permanent settlement of the Mission being considered more healthy removed as it is on the high prairie & in this part the missionaries have as they told me marked off their 1000 acres in prospect of the country falling under the protection of our laws, and the Bill of Mr. Linn105 or some other passing giving them a gratuity it
The mill I understood was under the charge of Mr. Raymond106 I was told by the Mission that he was the greatest ranter among them. I was extremely desirous of hearing but I had no opportunity of doing so.
We were invited to stay dinner which we accepted and it would be difficult to give an idea of the repast without having been present. We dined a la Methodist on Salmon, Pork, potted cheese, and strawberries, tea & hot cakes,107 they were all brothers and sisters some with coats, some without, red flannel shirts, and dirty white arms, higgledy piggledly. I shall not soon forget the narrow cramped up table, more crowded round it than it would hold, with the wooden benches, high backed chairs & low seated ones, perchance all the tall ones seized the high seats and the low in stature were even with the well filled board. The meal was eaten by us all in brotherly love, but hunger assisted me or I never should have been able to [Ms. P. 91a] swallow mine. I rode with the Revd. Mr. Hines108 to his quarters or farm to which he
105	United States Senator Lewis Fields Linn, of Missouri, whose advocacy of his “Oregon bill” has been remembered through the naming of Linn County, Oregon.
106	W. W. Raymond and wife were members of the Methodist reenforcement that arrived in the Lausanne in 1840. He was listed as a farmer. He met a tragic death on February 4, 1843, while trying to save others from drowning. See Bancroft’s Oregon, Volume I., pages 199-200.
107	If Wilkes had only a little of the spirit of the pioneer, he would not write thus about the feast.
108	Rev. Gustavus Hines, who later wrote two books about his missionary experiences and observations.Diary of Wilkes in the Northwest
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had just removed his wife & child & his worldly goods. I found them in a shanty of boards in the center of a fine prairie of which he informed me they had taken possession They had the ordinary comforts about them that one would expect in this country.
He pointed out to me the position of the scite for their Seminary which is to be occupied by their scholars. I could derive little or no satisfactory information relative to their views and prospects in forwarding the education of the Indians from what tribe they proposed taking them and the manner of teaching &c. &c. from all that I did hear however my impression is that there is no field for the numbers that are now attached to this mission & in a very few years none of this army will be left. They seem not to wish to push their Missionary operations to the North where the tribes are numerous and extensive & the climate healthy. Dr. Richmond it is true is settled at Nisqually but he is doing nothing. As the holder of a charge in which their particular denomination of Christians at home are greatly interested, I view it as a great neglect on the part of this mission if they have not made true representations at home respecting their prospects & it seems to me unaccountable how they can have received so large an amount of funds without having done more than is apparent or acknowledged by themselves. The amount of Indians now included within their limits is as follows, viz—Nisqually	Clatsop
209 Chinooks 220, Kilamouks 400, Kalla- [Ms. P. 92] puyas 600, Dalles 250—in all the country say 2000 of these they have under instruction if so it may be termed 25—and at the Dalles I believe is the only place where divine worship is attempted. Something may be said that these Missionaries came out under the idea that they are to settle and afford the necessary instruction if possible, but they are to colonize under the Christian religion as their law and guide & give the necessary instruction to the tribes they settle among to train them up in good habits, &c. &c. how this is to be done without exertion and strenuous efforts I am at a loss to conceive and it strikes me as obligatory on these Missionaries to state the facts they one and all admit.
At Mr. Hines I again had a long conversation with the Missionaries and stated the same objections I had given them before but more fully & I found them well satisfied They [his objections to the Provisional Government] were too strong to be resisted, since the foundation of the Settlement but one horse had been stolen and a settler had been detected in stealing a neighbors64
Diary of Wilkes in the Northwest
pigs by enticing them to his house dropping them into a cellar where they were slaughtered & eaten which was at last discovered by the bones around his premises & he was made to confess & pay their value simply by the force of public opinion.
We rode back towards the Mission or Hospital the Mill being the most remote part of the Willamette Settlement, and occasionally on these fine prairies had a hard race, the horses are fine & from the quantity of pasture throughout the year in good condition. After taking leave of Mr. & Mrs. Abernethy we continued our route crossed the river at the Old Mission house. The river has here considerably worn the banks and if it goes on to the same extent it will not be many years before the richest portion of the Willamette Valley is lost. The river at the pass is about 200 yd*, wide & the current 3 miles. [Ms. P. 92a]
We passed over in a crazy canoe with our traps & saddles and afterwards our horses swam over one or two being led by the canoe the animals are so well accustomed to this that they take the water very readily. At sunset we reached our camp which I had ordered to be pitched near O’Neil109 farm, and received an invitation from the Rev. Mr. Leslie110 to take tea with them he a short time since lost his wife leaving several children—one of whom it is understood is engaged to be married to O’Neil.
O’Neil’s farm is situated in a beautiful prairie of small extent with a fine forest encircling it & bordering on the river, it is gently undulating which takes away from its monotony. He had between 30 & 40 acres of wheat growing in fine order. It shows what ordinary industry will do in this Country 3 years since he came to the Valley with but a skin (as he expressed it) to his back, he worked a part of this farm, obtained the loan of cattle from Dr. McL. has repaid him out of his crops and is now in possession of this farm 100 head of cattle, good suits of clothes all by his own industry & now he feels it only necessary for him to work one month in the year to make a living the rest of the time he may amuse himself. he spoke in the kindest terms of Dr. McL. & the assistance he had afforded him in his outset. I was much amused by my fd. Mr. D.* * 111 being sadly affronted by the Revd. Mr. L. carrying him to his wife’s grave, but I could not prevail on him to repeat the conversation that occurred.
109	James O'Neil, who was converted at revival meetings held by Leslie in December, 1839. O’Neil was a member of the Provisional Government in 1843 and became Justice of the Peace for the Yamhill District.
110	Rev. David Leslie, who had arrived with his wife and three daughters on the Sumatra in September, 1837.
111	Joseph Drayton, artist, a member of the scientific corps of the Wilkes Expedition.Diary oe Wilkes in the Northwest
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9th [June]
The next morning we were doomed again to breakfast with Mr. Leslie, who showed us all the attention in his power at 9 we started for the Yam Hills [Ms. P. 93] in order to get a view from there of the whole country particularly the Tuallaty112 Valley to the west’d of the Willamette which these hills divide. They are of a reddish clay loam and have no marks of any wash from the rains however steep the banks, they are clothed to the very top with a fine sward and afford excellent pacture numbers of cattle are seen feeding on them—from the top of the Yam Hills we had a beautiful view of the surrounding country, it put me very much in mind of the Connecticut Valley from Mt. Hope113 the extent of country under view is 25 miles in extent, and extends to the different mountain ranges on the horizon. The wood as I remarked yesterday does not strike me as sufficient for the wants of the settlements. The oaks spread over the prairies in cluster gave them the appearance of orchards.
On our return towards the river road we passed the farm of One of Dr. McL. sons whom has settled here and has an extensive portion of prairie fenced in. One of the most striking appearances of the Willamette Valley is the flatness of its Prairies in some instances a dead level for miles in extent—and it becomes a problem of some difficulty to solve how they have been producd. Fire is no doubt the cause of their being kept clear of an under growth and may have been the original cause of them but the way the forests are growing round them would almost preclude this supposition as but thin belt of wood frequently occurs between extensive ones. Since the country has been in the possesion of the whites it is found that the wood is growing up rapidly a stop having been put to the fires so extensively lighted throughout the country every year by the Indians. They are generally lighted in Sep*, for the purpose of drying the seeds of the [blank] (sunflower) which is then gathered and forms a large portion of their food.114 [Ms. P. 93a]
As respects the Climate it may be termed mild it is however difficult to get any good data for these results few have paid any attenion to the meteorological phenomenon some have no in-
112	a local use for Tualatin. His notes here and later are indistinct as to this name and his published Narrative gives it Faulitz.
113	A peak in New Hampshire. In his published Narrative he changed it to Mount Holyoke in Massachusetts.
114	One other tradition is that the Indian fires were made to facilitate the grazing and also the hunting of deer and elk.66
Diary of Wilkes in the Northwest
struments others have lost them and omitted to take those that are now deemed essential viz., the night observations.
The rains are mild seldom any hard showers the winter of 1840 was thought to be the most severe of any yet known by the oldest white inhabitant. They had a foot of snow it laid but a few days, the coldest time of the year is said to be the end of Jany. or by begs of Feby. The Thermometer has been known to fall as low as -8° zero but for a very short time the N.E. & Easterly winds are the most unpleasant coming from the mountains, but a short dist. they produce sudden and great changes in the temperature. The Sd. & SWd. winds are the warm winds although they generally bring rain or mist. Those from the Nd. & Wd. fine clear weathers. Westerly winds are the most prevalent.
On our route through the Yam Hills we passed many settlers establishment but they were but lately established and did not in consequence show much improvement I find in the Willamette a great difference in the two classes of Settlers Those composing the Canadian Population & the American cheerfulness and industry are well marked in the appearances of the former while neglect & discontent, with lou[n]ging seem to infect the latter.
The best farm I saw on my route was that of La [Ms. P. 94] Bontés.115 having heard that the late Mr. Young's116 farm was the most beautiful spot in this section of country I determined to visit it and therefore again crossed the Yam Hill and the River of that name in order to do so. I found it situated in a valley running East & West connetcing as it were the two V. of W. & Faulity.117 It by no means acceeded my expectations being situated in a low, wet & marshy plain some three miles in extent. The premises were very much out of repair, no one at home two persons were in charge of the farm on wages at $1 per day.
On looking about the premises Johnston found a sick Kanaka118 lying in a bunk and a Pig roasting hanging by its hind legs over a slow fire. Mr. Young appears to have been one of the first pioneers & settlers in this valley, was desirous at one time to establish a distillery but through the influence of Mr. Slacum119 he was diverted from it & engaged to go to California for cattle
115	Louis La Bonte, one of the Astorians who settled on the west side of the Willamette in 1833.
116	Ewing Young, frequently referred to in this narrative.
117	See note 112,
118	In the published Narrative, Volume IV., page 359, this word is translated into “a native of the Sandwdch Islands.”
119	William Slacum, who made a tour of inspection for the United States Government in 1837.Diary of Wilkes in the Northwest
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in order that himself and others belonging to the Settlement might be supplied with them the Hudson's Bay Coy refusing to sell any. Mr. Slacum invested some money in Cattle also Mr. Young taking the charge of them during my visit at the Columbia both Mr. Slacum & Young had died & Youngs property falling into the hands of hunters I thought it advisable that Mr. Sla-cums nephew should receive for his uncles estate the proceeds of them—and as this whole transaction came under my immediate knowledge I am satisfied of its correctness as regards the increase of flocks & herds in this country. Mr. S. share on their arrival from California in 1837 amounted to 23 at this time Dr. McL,. purchased of Mr. May120 86. Several having been accounted for as lost & killed by accident making the whole numbers of increase in 4 years about [Ms. P. 94a] 400 per Cent. from Youngs farm we passed to his Saw Mill now quite in ruin it was erected at much expense and badly located, little timbers in the neighborhood. Shortly before Youngs death the Mill dam was washed away, and it is now deemed an unprofitable business to erect it again. I regretted the disturbed stream as I was desirous of making further explorations after the Bones of a Mastodon which inspecting the locality that the whole course of the current had had been given to me at Oaks by a Capt. Gouch but I found on been changed and the materials of the Dam of the saw mill had created such an obstruction as to have caused a large mass of alluvial deposits to be heaped upon the position to remove which would have been an herculean labor. besides it was doubtful if the remaining bones had not prior to the flood of waters been carried down the Stream and lost. The bank in which the bones were found was of red marl & gravel.121
The creeks of this country in the spring Feby—swell suddenly and cause much damage to the farmer.
The Yam Hill River is about 60 or 70 yds wide but too deep for the Horses to ford La Bontes farm joins on it it is susceptible of navigation with canoes. After a long and tedious ride we reached the Willamette opposite to the Camp Maude du Sable122 or Champooying where we took up our quarters in a
120 In the published Narrative he refers to Mr. Slacum’s nephew as “a midshipman on board my ship.” Here in the diary he refers to Mr. May. Reference to the roster shows William May as midshipman on the Vincennes. Doctor McLoughlin paid over $860 for the young officer as the purchase price of the uncle’s cattle.
121	For a discussion of Oregon fossils see Thomas Condon’s Two Islands and What Came of Them, or the later edition entitled Oregon Geology.
122	See note 95.68
Diary of Wilkes in the Northwest
house belonging to George Gay123 who after this became my guide George is full as much an Indian in habits as a white can be & bears them no love & is a terror to them having not infrequently taken the law into his own and applied it after the Lynch fashion. George is of that easy [Ms. P. 95] kind of lounging figure so peculiar to an Indian or backwoodsman has a nice & useful Indian woman who does his bidding and takes care of his children horses & guards his household though his property does not consist of many valuables, superfluities with him are not to be found, and when you see George & his woman & child travelling you may be sure his all is with him but George is a useful member in this small community, he gelds & marks cattle, breaks horses, and cows for milking, assist in finding them, in short he undertakes any and all irregular sort of business, and few things with him are deemed impossibilities and in the words of one of the settlers George was not a man to be trifled or fooled with. he afterwards became my guide and I had much confidence in him.
10th June.
This morning we were disturbed by the Indian slaves of Johnson who came to look for the milking Pans Drayton pelted them well with his shoes whilst I search in vain for my pistols They took the alarm & ran off very much frightened shortly after breakfast we crossed the river to Johnston no one can conceive the filth all these people indulge indoors and out though one is sure to receive a hearty good will to supply all your wants; it is extremely to be regretted that an example of one good farmer should not root himself here. I am fully persuaded it would do more than all the Missionarys could possibly effect, by example. One month in the year is all that is required of labour viz for putting the wheat &c. &c. into the ground and when it is ripe enough reaping it. the Harvest generally occurs in July and August the rest of the year can be passed in comparative idleness, their cattle need little or no attendance & thus their time is fully at their disposal. I cannot but view this as likely to become one of the great evils of the country. a man becoming as it were rich by comparative idelness—and it will always be an easy matter for the community to be led away by vices. [Ms. P. 95a] Spirits introduced into this Settlement would very soon destroy it altogether.
123 George Gay became a member of the Provisional Government and later joined the gold rush to California, 1848-1849.Diary of Wilkes in the Northwest
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This morning I left Mr. Drayton to go to the Willamette farm by the boat and took the route by land in order to visit other portions of the Valley that lie in a N. E. direction from Cham-pooya after crossing a ridge of trap rock for about one mile we again entered on the Prairie & stop'd at Dr. Bailey's124 farm. This was the nicest house I had seen in the Territory and under the superintendance of a good Yankee wife.125 I staid to dinner and it was indeed a pleasure to see every part of an establishment in such order. Mrs. B. garden I have heretofore spoken of. all that appears to be wanting here is the society necessary to interest one altho' Mrs. B. said she had neighbors but they were not neighbors in Oregon she was formerly of the Mission & regretted that the field to the north among the various tribes was not occupied. Dr. Bailey is the practicing phyn. he stated to me that the country for whites was very healthy and would be so for the natives if they could be persuaded to take care of themselves. The ague & fever was not of a dangerous type. He stated to me there had been but one surgical operation to his knowledge in this country. The Fever & ague was very destructive to the Indians at least one fourth died off yearly, when an Indian is sick and considered beyond recovery he is poisoned by the medicine man, for this purpose a decoction of the root of the wild cucumber is given him. Some of this—roots grow to a very large size. I saw one at Mr. Walters at the falls of 3 [feet] long about 12 inches diameter. Dr. Bailey accompanied [Ms. P. 96] us as far as the falls on my route I stopt at a Mr. Walkers126 who came from Missouri by the mountains with all his family last year. He does
124	Dr. William J. Bailey, one of the most interesting Oregonians of that day, was
an English surgeon who had come to America to break away from habits of dissipation. He became a sailor and made his way to California where he led a roving life until 1835, when he joined seven others	to seek	out Ewing Young	in Oregon. On the way their
camp was visited by Rogue River Indians, who were allowed liberties that led to tragedy. Four of the party were killed. Dr. Bailey, though frightfully wounded, made his way to Fort Vancouver where he was cared for in the Hudson’s Bay Company hospital. John K. Townsend was at Vancouver and wrote:	“This is certainly by far the most horrible
looking wound I ever saw, rendered so, however, by injudicious treatment and entire want of care in the proper apposition of the sundered parts; he simply bound it up as well as he could with his handkerchief and his extreme anguish caused him to forget the necessity of accuracy in this	respect.	The	consequence	is, that the lower part	of his
face is dreadfully contorted,	one side	being	considerably	lower than the other.”	Town-
send’s Narrative “Early Western Travels” edition, pages 328-331. The missionaries encouraged Dr. Bailey, who built up an important practice and became an honored member of the Provisional Government. He died at Champoeg on February 5, 1876, aged about 70 years. Bancroft’s Oregon, Volume I., pages 96-97.
125	Miss Margaret Smith had come on the Sumatra in 1837 and was a teacher in the Methodist Mission before she became the wife of Dr. Bailey.
126	Joel P. Walker, born in Virginia in 1797, was a typical frontiersman, moving
ever westward. He came to Oregon	with	his wife and five children in 1840	and is
counted the first, not a missionary or fur trader, who sought the home lands in Oregon promised in the Linn. bill. When Lieutenant George F. Emmons, of the Wilkes Expedition, led an overland party from Oregon to California in 1841, the Walker family joined the emigrants that accompanied the party. He returned to Oregon with cattle for sale and in 1845 became one of the judges in the Provisional Government for Yamhill County. Later he returned to California and remained there.70
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not like the country and will go the first opportunity to California. He said the climate was too wet for business that the land is good for crops but only for small grain—corn cannot be raised— and a first rate grazing country—he is a good specimen of a border man and appears to think nothing of a change of domicil although he is much passed the middle age.
He says (which is true) there is no market for grain—nor is there likely to be, and if he should not like California he will travel home again. Mr. Walker subsequently joined the party & went across to California from the Willamette river and I believe entered into the service of Mr. Suter located on the Sacramento and of whom I shall hereafter in treating of that part of the country speak.
I rode on after leaving Mr. Walker with Gay in advance at his own pace having made up my mind to move rapidly notwithstanding all the obstructions I expected to meet with. He told me he was of English Parents but now he was more than Indian & I will add fully equal to them in all artifice. He passes for the best laso thrower, always ready to eat, sleep or frolic. His woman & 2 children are to him as his trappings, and he is to be seen roaming the country far and wide and is ever on the alert to help the weary or those who may be in want of aid. I have seen him while with me dash off for half a mile for a poor indian's horse he was unable to catch and then return this was done in a manner that showed it was his practice.
We had to cross the Powder river about way [Ms. P. 96a] to the falls, and finding the usual ford entirely closed with drift wood George set to work to endeavor to find a place where our horses could get across which he soon did. Swimming them was but a few moments work and we passed over the fallen trees and joined him on the opposite bank. The Powder river or rather Creek is about 200 feet wide and almost 20 feet deep in this quarter, in some places it has a rapid run.
The country now became exceedingly rough & the low places wet and miry and can be of little use for agricultural purposes at times when the river becomes choked with timber and there is sudden rise the prairies are all inundated that border on it. its course was W. N. W. & E. S. E. a few miles farther we forded the Little Powder and they join each other just before entering the Willamette & form an Island at their mouth.
All our way to the falls was through a broken trap countryDiary of Wilkes in the Northwest
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with some large timber but it would be impracticable to remove it. We reached the falls at Sunset and considering the road we had travelled I could not help congratulating myself that we had reached our destination before dark the last few miles of route was a sort of a break-neck one.
I found here Mr. Drayton & the tents all comfortably prepared. Here I again saw Mr. Waller who was literally uncombed, unshaven and dirty both in appearance and person.
These missionaries are very far from what they ought to be low, vulgar and unclean. I am invited to partake of their hospitality including all those about us. I have seldom if ever until [Ms. P. 97] I came here witnessed so much uncleanliness, & so little regard paid to proper decorum if they were Christian men and readers of their bible, they ought to practice cleanly habits. Mr. W. was as filthy as any Indian I have met with in appearance & taking our nation into consideration more so They are sent out to show an example but how little they do in this respect and how little they earn their wages in preaching the Gospel a higher and Just God will determine from this I must exempt the wives who I must say are in a great degree the honor of their husbands & my only wonder is that they dont insist upon the adoption of their habits by them.
Took leave of Mr. Drayton whom I desired to stay here a few days for him to get the salmon & drawings of the various objects pointed out & to collect specimens having embarked all our traps I seated myself in the large boat and began the descent of the Willamette. All reached the boat builders camp whom I found progressing well and who appear to work with much unanimity the land across the Willamette appears to be good & well wooded with oak, fir and cedar about 3 miles from its mouth where i[t]s delta begins found the waters much higher all the low land overflown & I understood if I had been in a canoe I might have gone in a direct course for the Fort. at sunset after a hard rowing we reached the Fort w[h]ere I was again kindly received by Dr. McL,. and Mr. Douglas & all the gentlemen then among them Mr. Peter S. Ogden127 of the Non. district who had arrived a few days since he is a chief factor in the Company. Mr. Ogden is a Brother [Ms. P. 97a] of Harry Ogden of New York of the
127 Peter Skeen Ogden, an officer of the Hudson’s Bay Company, for whom a city, river, canyon and valley in Utah have been named. Recent interest has been aroused in his career notably in Hidden Heroes of the Rockies, by Isaac K. Russell. Ogden’s grave in Oregon has been found and appropriately marked.72
Diary of Wilkes in the Northwest
family of Ogden of Montreal. he has been stationed at Fort Simpson but now at Fort St. James, in Stuarts lake (he has been 32 years in the country) and has 6 posts under him in New Caledonia, but from his having passed a huge portion of his time with trapping parties he possesses much knowledge of the country he represents the country in the northern section unsusceptible of cultivation, on account of the proximity of the mountain-range all the year covered with snow producing sudden changes in the heat of summer that would destroy the crops. His post is amply supplied with salmon (dried) on which they live the greater part of the year their stores flour &c. &c. are all taking from the Colville districts and that of Vancouver. Furs are very abundant and are purchased at a small price his return this year was valued at $100,000. This he informed was a great falling of—indeed, I am informed that the trapping in the southern section is scarcely worth the outlay for a party.
I have been exceedingly amused since my return to the fort with the voyageurs of Mr. Ogdens party. They are to be seen lounging about in groups decked off with feathers ribbons &c. &c. with the conceit and flaunting air of a finely dressed country girl evidently looking down upon all those employes who with their somber and business like air are moving around the fort as if they were total strangers to the pelasure of life while these jovial fellows seemed to have naught to do but att. [Ms. P. 98] to the d[eco] rating of their persons and pleasures
Mr. Ogden represented to me that the object in establishing the Pugets Sound Company128 was to derive profit from the agricultural labours & the raising of cattle for Hide, Horn & tallow that their ships now went home almost empty & the cost would be little besides they had the feeding of all the Post & the packing of Beef, butter, Pork &c. &c. They now have entered into a contract with the Russian Company129 to supply them with their provisions I cannot but view the Industry and labours of this Company but as tending to forward greatly the advantages to be derived from it by the future possession of the soil—enabling emigration to go on with much greater ease profit and rapidity. From the nature of the country its peculiar adaptation to grazing,
128	Puget Sound Agricultural Company shared with the Hudson’s Bay Company in claims for property and improvements after the boundary treaty of 1846, and received for its share $200,000 on September 10, 1860. See Treaties and Conventions, 1776-1887, pages 469-470.
129	The Russian American Company, of which at that time Lieutenant Etolin was Governor.Diary of Wilkes in the Northwest
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mildness of its climate, and the little attention required for the care of Herds I am satisfied that this must become one of the richest cattle countries in the world and go far to compete with any portion of it, in its salted beef, Pork, & for which the climate is deemed exceedingly favorable. It now contains about 10,000 cattle though it is but a few years ago that the first were introduced from California.
The Price of wild cattle may be quoted now at $10 a head but those that are broken in for labour or milch cows bring in some cases enormous prices some milch cows in the Willamette valley have been sold for 70$ and an endeavor has been made to keep the price of cattle up as labour is usually paid in stock. The price of labour for a mechanic may [Ms. P. 98a] may be set down at $2.50 to 3$ and difficulty to get them at that. This is the Spanish $ which is however worth in consequence of the exchange but 40 cents. The wages for a common labourer 1$—
The price of wheat is fixed by the company at [blank] cents for which anything but spirits may be drawn from the Stores at 50 percent on the London cost. This is supposed all things taken into consideration to be about equal to 1.25/100$ a bushel, but it is difficult for the Settlers so to understand it, and they are by no means satisfied with this rule although it is for their benefit.
There is a description of money here called Beaver money which is that of skins which are valued at $2. throughout the Territory.
During my absence the water of the River had risen 3 feet & again fallen 18 inches and the fears of the farmer in relation to the crops have in a measure subsided. I hear however that the wheat on the lower prairie near the fort has suffered considerably —although it will produce a large yield.
We have had frequent showers & much rain this last few weeks I was led to believe that they were subject to draught but am inclined to believe it may rather be classed as a wet climate Those better acquainted with the seasons differ so much in their opinions and indeed are so opposite that it is difficult to get at anything that would appear facts from Experience Dr. McL. thought it a wet Season but Mr. Douglas on the contrary thought [Ms. P. 99] there was less rain than usual. Wm. Bruce the gardner somewhat of a judge from his plants said it was about the time of year for showers & that he had not been obliged to water much. Bruce is somewhat of an oddity after his service was74
Diary of Wilkes in the Northwest
out he desired to go home & accordingly left in one of the Company’s vessel arrived at London & then accidentally met Dr. McL. in the street whom he joyfully recognized and on being asked how he got along, he said not at all he wished to go back to Vancouver, for there was nothing there to be compared to it he was ill at ease the ship being not quite ready & wishing to get him instructed permission was obtained for him to work in the Duke of Devonshire’s garden. When he left he was questioned what he thought of it, he said sure Sir it is not to be compared to Vancouver Bruce & myself had many a chat at Vancer. and there are few happier or more contented persons. I can vouch for it that Billy Bruce the gardner at Vancouver is of some extent & most of the Horticultural plants thrive well the climate is well adapted for fruits particularly apples pears & grapes have been tried but do not yet yield well figs are grown also, and some very fine melons rasberries currants & strawberries are also fine.
Though the garden is not quite equal to that of Chiswick130 I can agree very readily it is by no means contemptible under the constant superintendance of Bruce.
Potatoes are planted in the fields & enormous crops had. The gentlemen of the Company are industrious in introducing new plants but their hopes have often [Ms. P. 99a] often times disappointed from the seed turning out defetcive much good must result to the country and they who introduce new seeds or plants that add to the comfort as well as food of man ought to be classed among the benefatcors of a country. One of the gentln Mr. D— introduced Hops by bringing a few living plants with him from Canada some 3000 miles & the plants now are to be seen in abundance in their gardens.
In speaking of the Willamette Valley I have viewed its advantages as to raising grains & the facility afforded for the Settlers to become wealthy. There are some objections to the formation of a large settlement there in consequence of the interruption in its river at all season of the year and which must make it labour under disadvantages in getting to a market or in receiving their supplies. The Columbia being their only outlet for the farmer, there would be little or no difficulty in locking at the falls & from appearances I would think the Rock well adapted to it—but a young settlement cannot contend with such expense.
130 Defined in reference works as a “suburb of London where Hogarth was buried. ” It probably possessed a famous garden.Diary of Wilkes in the Northwest
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Salmon fishing in the Willamette does not extend above the falls great quantities are here caught The season is the month of June it is scarcely possible to estimate the amount of salmon that are caught at these falls it varies in different years but they are considered among the finest at this distance from the sea.
The H. B. Co. have an establishment for [Ms. P. 100] the purchase of salmon from the natives at these falls and also the Missionaries. I would suppose many 800 bis. were taken by the Company sup't. & Indians and this is after the Indians mode of catching them.
The fisheries at the Dalis, Cascades, & several places along the River also produce large qauntities—as high up as Colville.
Frazer's River is supposed to Yield even a larger quantity than the Cola. though they are not so large and fine The Chi-kiles, Muqua & all the small streams, on the coast are much frequented by them, and to these may be added the Sacramento & its branches. The resources of these Rivers cannot well be estimated in their salmon and would afford a large source of profit to its Settlers. The Salmon do not pass up the Cowlitz in the Spring I can see no other reason for it than that the waters are muddy. The fall salmon however frequent it in October—
The finest salmon are those caught nearest the Sea near the mouths of the Rivers131—
14th. 15th. & 16. [June]
I was very busily employed in writing orders for the Peacock & Flying Fish132 which I put in charge of Mr. Waldron whom I sent to Fort George to await the arrival there—
Mr. Ogden kindly informed he intended to take me as far as the Cowlitz farm in one of his boats previous to leaving for his Northern trip having nothing for Mr. Drayton to do particularly I accepted Mr. Ogden's offer to give him a passage as far as Walla-Walla. On the morning of the 17th the Fort was in a stir at an early hour, and preparations were making. Now and then we saw a voyageur decked out in his ribband, & feathers all [Ms. P. 100a] attention to his duties. about 10 o'clock we were
131	In the published Narrative, Volume IV., page 366, he expanded this praise: “The fish of the waters are said to be hardly edible, and compared with those caught at the mouth of the Columbia, are totally different in flavour. The latter are the richest and most delicious fish I ever recollect to have tasted: if anything, they were too fat to eat, and one can perceive a difference even in those taken at the Willamette Falls, which, however, are the best kind for salting."
132	The ship Peacock and the tender Flying-Fish, of the squadron, had continued their work in the South Seas and were expected at the mouth of the Columbia. The Peacock was wrecked on the Columbia River bar on July 18, 1841, and subsequently the Flying-Fish was sold at Singapore in February, 1842.76
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all summoned by Dr. McLaughlin to the Hall to take a parting cup customary in this country and observed as far as I could learn throughout among themselves. All were present Missionaries and all the household, the former ought to have staid away for if they had been at my funeral instead of leave taking they could not have been so repugnant to good fellowship & feeling.
Some no doubt think this piece of Scotch politeness would be better in the Breach than observance but I was of a very different opinion it whiles away that part of leaving of ones friend that is always the most painful the pledging of each other, and the good wishes one takes with him are all pleasant and give a warmth to recollections of by gone days that is by no means disagreeable, one feels and loves the kindness, and attention of one's friends to the last, & enables one to bid goodby with more courage—I like this hanging to old customs in the Scotch, perhaps more attended to than any other nation, and there is always a warmth of feeling thrown into its observance that cannot but be felt Off we marched for the River Side accompanied by the whole establishment forming quite a cavalcade. On our arrival there we found one of Mr. Ogden's boats decked out with Mats, and Manned by 14. Voyageurs, all gaily dressed with their ribbands and plumes of various colours tied in large bunches over the oil skin covered Hats, with another warm shake of the hand we embarked & off we flew against the Stream under the fine chorus of a Canadian Boatsong, and gracefully swept round [Ms. P. 101] until we reached its centre when the boat seemed a fit object to grace this beautiful River now at its height. On we merrily went and in about 2hours we reached the Mouth of the Cowlitz a distance of about 35 miles—There we had a strong current to contend with and at night fall we had progressed up the Cowlitz about 12 miles when we encamped, the weather had changed & we had a wet night of it, but laughing and jokes made our time pass merrily and we found the sun far above the horizon when we struck our tents after noon showers came on again and struggling with the strong current prevented us from making our destination, and we encamped within about 3 miles of the forks. The management of the Boat in the rapids (though on a small scale) of the men truly surprised me and how well trained & dexterous the Canadians are in using the Pole & paddle and withal so jovial singing almost the whole time one or the other of them,Diary of Wilkes in the: Northwest
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& then all joining in chorus133 gives them spirits & serves to keep them awake, & make the time pass quickly, about every half hour they take a spell or a smoke134 with one having his pouch bag ornamented ala Indians and containing his fine implements tobacco & Pipe, without this no one can trade in an Indian country.
At noon on th 19th we reached the Farm landing & after getting on top of the light bank & finding the road muddy we took the Chariot that had come for our luggage & drove up in style to the House—much to the wonderment of Mr. Forrest135 the overseer. On the 20th I regretted extremely to part with my friends at day light, the many hours I have passed in their Company will long be associated with that of the territory in my recollections. I had almost forgotten to mention that under the guidance of Mr. Ogden [Ms. P. 101a] I made a visit to the Catholic Priest Mr. [blank] 136 who has this as his Station several Canadian families were here whom he has under his charge We found all of them quite flourishing and apparently happy and enjoying plenty— the land of this Section is good though I should say the soil was not so deep as in the Willamette but more serviceable in raising all kinds of crops from 15 to 20 bushels of wheat is raised to the acre. The Pasturage for cattle is not so good, but still the Cattle require no housing—
It proved a hard rainy day, & having little to do, I laid down leaving my chror. (pocket) as is my custom on the table. After a long nap I awoke with the consciousness of having slept long and jumping up to look at my chror. I was greatly surprised to see by it a small silver watch but what surprised me still more was that they agreed as to time, and talking to myself I said I must be mistaken when Mr. Forrest entered and said that having found my watch was wrong he had set it for me. I could not but exclaim "good God is it possible/ and we both stood looking at each other in some astonishment & his [feelings] incensed when I told him he had changed my Greenwich time for that of Cowlitz, which latter he thought much beter I then to his great surprise & mortification told him how he had interrupted my series of observations for Meridian distances &c. &c. but he thought it passing strange—why
133	Collections of the Canadian boat songs have been published.
134	Distances of river points were sometimes given in terms of “smokes” or “pipes.”
135	Charles Forrest was succeeded as superintendent of Cowlitz Farm in 1847 by George B. Roberts.
136	The name of the priest was apparently not ascertained. Fathers Francis Norbet Blanchet and Modeste Demers had first settled there in 1838. Father Blanchet was mentioned as in the Willamette Valley. See note 100. The one on Cowlitz Prairie in 1841 may have been Father Demers, who continued his work north of the Columbia River, mainly along the shores of Puget Sound and Vancouver Island.78
Diary of Wilkes in the Northwest
I should prefer Greenwich to that of Cowlitz time. That he was sure his watch was right for it was exactly with the Sun I got a little over my [Ms. P. 102] vexation by reading a few papers in Salmagundi among them my Aunt Charity — and had afterwards a hearty laugh at this incident particularly after reflection. I had enough data to fix my positions that I had already observed nothing could persuade my honest host that anything could be preferable to Cowlitz time nor could I persuade him that his watch could not keep time with the Sun. I determined in my own mind not to leave my chronometer to any such contingencies hereafter & think this lesson may prove a salutary one at least to me.
My host was as kind as he could be gave every attention to supply all my wants and at 8 o’clock on the 21st after a nice breakfast I took leave of him to cross to Nisqually—having Plu-mondon,137 his wife child 2 servants & another settler for my guides—
I was induced to avoid the mountain or hilly road & wished to pass it by the river in a canoe sending the horse around with our loads; but the Indians were to be employed, and I at once said it would be useless to attempt a bargain, until one has fully experienced the delays & difficulty of bargaining with an Indian one has no idea of it, such perfect non chalance—time, haste, money, clothes, is nothing to them no importunities will effect any thing patience is soon worn out & our time quite lost, so after a few minutes & seeing how little they were disposed to move I rode off and passed the bad road quickly & with ease, not a little satisfied with the independence I had shown at the same time hoping it would prove some sort of lesson to them if I had Rum many would have gone days & submitted to great fatigue but any thing short of that will not move as in the Salmon & Cammass Season this is their harvest. [Ms. P. 102a] at 7 PM. we encamped in a Small Prairie—and on 22nd [June] started again at 7 o’clock after a hard ride we reached the opposite banks of the Shutes River138 where we again encamped—As I passed over the same road returning as going I refer to my return by time—the grasses trees & flowers were every variety of bloom and the weather being much warmer made it more agreeable although I found a good fire not amiss at night.
137 Simon Plomondon, former employe of the Hudson’s Bay Company. See note 6$ above.
138. Deschutes River, flowing into Puget Sound at Tumwater near the present Olympia, named by the Hudson's Bay Company men from the French word meaning falls.Diary of Wilkfs in thf Northwest
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23rd. [June]
I started early & having my servants & baggage we galloped on at a brisk rate through the beautiful park scenery as we approached Nisqually getting now & then beautiful peeps at lakes & the snow capped Mt. Rainier.—at noon I reached the Ships and was delighted to find all well & the news from the Boats & from the Porpoise of recent date and at once (having my houses erected during my absence, put up the Pendulum apparatus and began a series which lasted until the 4th July getting observations for the Longe. by more cullminating Stars & other details connected with the plotting, & surveys &c. with Latitude, Dip variations & Intensity.
25th. [June]
Sent Lt. Budd to supersede Lt. Case who was ordered to proceed to Hoods Canal to recover the lost eye piece139 of the Telescope grave carelessness in using it. I cannot feel that the party under Lt. Case have been well enmployed much time lost in the head not being able to work so large a force.
26. 27. 28 [June]
Employed at Experiments weather tolerably fine obtained observations for Late with Meridian circle also of eleven culminating Stars140. Mr. Case to observe his last location darkness continues but a short time, day breaks at 2j^ A.M. & darkness at 9 P.M. [Ms. P. Ill]141 gives little opportunity for a variety of Stars. The weather is delightful.
Busily employed building an oven for the Baking of bread in order to economize our Sea Stock. The oven was formed on a stage with good plastic clay found in the neighborhood over the twigs of the hazel bushes and proved serviceable making excellent bread—the dough trough made by hollowing out a large tree that was found near by.
29th [June]
I rode with Mr. Anderson to the Nisqually Dairy the country is beautiful Park Scenery to perfection the grouping of the clumps &c. &c. all give one an idea of art, more than a natural formation one is fairly lost in viewing everything upon the large
139	A piece of apparatus quite essential to the explorers. A report resulting from sign-language inquiries led to a long search when the suspected Indian was found to possess only a “cologne bottle.”
140	Aid is acknowledged from Dean James E. Gould, University of Washington, in deciphering a number of astronomical and nautical references.
141	The diariest jumped to different pages in his note book increasing the difficulty of keeping the narrative consecutive.80
Diary of Wilkfs in the: Northwest
scale that is presented of lawns, clumps, lakes, woods trees of gigantic size—the scene is much varied by crossing at times fine running brooks, and coming upon lakes of some miles in extent with the deer browsing quietly near them all the back grounds made up of the bold distant outline of snowy peaks, of the Cascade range in which Mt. Rainier is ever prominent rising as it were from our very feet by a gradual slope to the heighth of 12,330 feet142 The interest and grandeur of this scenery never can be lost in ones memory and the lover of the picturesque would be amply repaid by a visit to this part of the country. There would be no difficulty in driving a wheeled carriage in almost any part of it.
In my ride I discovered another snowy Peak visible from this plain very much resembling that of Mt. Rainier, it appears to the Eastwd. of the Range. Not being represented on my chart or Map I called it Mt. Hudson143 after the Comdr. of the Peacock. [Ms. P. 111a]
The top of Mt. St. Helens is just in sight also from this Plain. The Dairy is situated on part of this plain and has about [blank] cows with about 100 cattle these are regularly put into Pens at nights not only for the purpose of protection from the wolves but also to save the manure They use from Yi to an acre in extent, and are made after the Virginia fence rails of pine and are moved every week so that in the course of a year a large portion is even manured, and those parts that are defective the soil is much enriched. This Dairy yields a large supply of butter which is sent under the Contract to the Russians.144 I regret to say the filth about the Dairy, Dairy maid her children & house exceeded anything I had ever witnessed in my life.
The farming operations are not large They have probably some 200 acres which was said would yield about 15 bushels to the acre. It is the Intention to put up a mill for grinding wheat & sawing lumber but this farm is chiefly intended for a grazing farm, the last supply of cattle being intended for this place were received from California about 3000 sheep & 1500 cattle & some 400 horses.
Mr. Anderson one of the Clerks of the H. B. Co. on a salary of £100 has charge of this farm under him are several persons who have charge of the difft. departments.
142	A later reference to the altitude will be found more nearly correct.
143	This name for a peak was not charted nor was it mentioned in the published Narrative or its index.
144	In what is now known as Alaska. See note 66 above.Diary of Wilkes in the Northwest
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30th [June]
Engaged with Pendulum and also observing for Latitude— find the House answers well, temperature equable particularly at night.
Lt. Case returned after a fruitless search for the Eye Piece— got Mr. Anderson to send a War Messr [Ms. P. 112] to demand its being given up.
July 1st, 1841
Fair weather and beautiful nights for observing Myself and Mr. May145 employed on the Fiji chart.
2nd [July]
Lt. Case & myself measuring a base line & taking the Alt®, of Mt. Rainier the measured height was 14,850 feet146 in a S. 88° 15' E. direction—1st alt 3. 09. 13.5 which gives the alt. of Mt.
2nd “ 3. 23. 11.
Rainier [blank] and distant from Nisqually [blank]
3rd [July]
Boats returned agreeably to orders to spend the 4th of July which I intended they should spend or celebrate in a suitable manner—the 4th falling on a Sunday it was therefore kept on the 5th preparations were made for roasting an ox whole on one of the prairies whither they were to go to spend the day.
On the morning of the 4th I finished my Pendulum observation & invited all the officers present to dine with me. Sunday passed quickly each busily engaged making his preparations for the morrow balls, clubs &c. &c. The ox was killed & spitted and a party of the most adept among the crew appointed to cook him. He was spitted ingeniously on a young sapling supported on 2 Notches and revolved on the spit without difficulty. The roasting was begun on the night of the 4th.
5th [July.]
Crew were mustered on board & came on shore in their nice clean white frocks & trousers with the marines in uniform and music & after forming at the Observatory they marched off under Mr. B.147 & Colv.148 to the Prairie where the preparations had
145	Passed Midshipman. William May.
146	The real altitude is now known to be 14,408 feet. He evidently intended to do* some more calculating but left the spaces for the results blank.
147	Passed Midshipman and Acting Master Thomas A. Budd, for whom Budd Inlet (now Olympia Harbor) was named.
148	Passed Midshipman George W. Colvocoressis, whose name wras often thus abbreviated as, for example, when honored by the naming of Colvos Passage west of Vashon Island. See also note 38 above.82
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been making. It was truly a gratifying sight to see them all in good health not a man sick and as white as the driven snow with happy & con- [Ms. P. 112a] tented faces. on their arrival partners were chosen and the games began including horse racing &c. &c. At noon on firing the 2nd salute with the Brass Howitzer a Q. G. by the name of Whitehorn149 had his arm dreadfully lacerated by the accidental discharge of the gun. The Dr. thought amputation necessary but to this I objected as it could as safely be performed in a few days as now and might [not] be necessary, he was sent off on a Barrow to the ship with his ship mates. This accident put a momentary stop to the Hilarity but as Jack is somewhat familiar to such scenes it was soon forgotten and they resumed enjoying their sports until near sunset when they again formed & returned on board with their music all in good order. Few casual observers but would have noticed the appearance of Vendovi150 the Fiji Chief dressed partly in European & Fiji costumes & bringing up the rear with the Master at Arms who had the care of him. it was the 1st time he had been on shore since his capture & enjoyed himself exceedingly. These frolics and exercise tend to do the crew good and after so long a cruize I feel it great recreation to my own mind to see all those enjoying themselves who have passed with me through so many dangers, and by their exertions achieved for the Country no small reputation.151
All the officers present dined with me Mr. Anderson Capn. McNeil & Dr. Richmond Missionary all seemed to enjoy themselves and I gave them as good chow as the Oregon territory afforded.
On the morning of the 6th Dr. McL,aughlin arrived he had missed his way and he was as [Ms. P. 113] much disappointed as we were at his non arrival at dinner of the day before. I paid him all the attention in my power, took him on board the ship, manned the yards and cheered him on his leaving. he appeared to be highly gratified, with the order and condition of a Man of War. He dined with me and on the next day went back to the Cowlitz. I cannot say too much for his kindness and attention to our wants and desire of assisting us, his personal attentions to me I shall long entertain a grateful remembrance of.
149	Quarter Gunner Daniel Whitehorn.
150	For whom Vendovi Island was named in what is, now the northwestern corner of Skagit County, Washington.
151	The “no small reputation” achieved by the Wilkes Expedition has been slow in developing. The scope of the undertaking was world-wide. Its work in Northwestern America has attracted increased attention during the last few years. On July 5, 1906, the sixty-fifth anniversary of the celebration recorded here was observed with appropriate ceremonies. Governor Albert E. Mead and other representative citizens participated, also Chief Slugamus Koquilton who declared that he as a small boy attended the celebration in 1841.Diary of Wilkes in 'The Northwest
83
6th July.
4 boats started with Lt. Carr to continue the Survey up the Sound; send off the apparatus & other Instruments.
7th & 8th [July.]
Preparing to join the surveying party with 3 Boats
on the 9th left with Lt. Budd & Pass. Mid. Eld for the falls on the Shutes River. Mr. Anderson accompanied me intending to visit the Bute Prairies152 for the purpose of examining them Sent the Horses round to meet us. By the stupidity of the guide (an Indian Boy) we took the wrong arm153 and after a long and fatiguing pull to its head returned & encamped.
An early start on the 10th brought us to falls by 11 o’clock the weather had become disagreeable with rain showers We found the horses had been waiting for us all the morning. This Arm is of about 9 miles deep and the Shutes River (or more properly creek) falls with its head down a fall154 of some 65 feet in heighth it is here about 10 feet wide and 2 feet deep it forms a basin of 50 feet diameter at its foot from which the land rises and makes a cool pleasant retreat in summer the bubbling of the cascade is agreeable. After forming our encampment & discharging the Boats I dispatched Lt. B. & Md. Eld to begin [Ms. P. 113a] the Survey, the head of this Inlet or arm is very shoal for some distance (yi miles) from its head & has an extensive mud flat with a channel of 20 to 30 feet in width with water enough for a boat at low water.
Mr. Anderson & myself took our horses and several of the men with shovels & pickaxes & started for the prairie which we reached about 5 o’clock having had a thorough drenching from the rain more by coming in contact with the wet bushes than the falling rain The path is an Indian trail & everywhere overgrown with alders &c. from 12 to 15 feet high. — Pitched our tents & made fires & then chose the Butes that we desired to open 3 of which were dug into. They are composed of alluvial soil apparently by the soil being brought together, and are remarkably rich of a mellow black mould. Their dimensions are generally 15 feet in diameter, and six feet above the gravelly soil — about one might be
152	Now known as Mound Prairie.
153	Evidently the arm afterwards named Eld Inlet after Passed Midshipman Henry Eld. Locally it is often called “Mud Bay.’
154	The waterfall which suggested the name for the Descutes River. Four years later (1845) the Michael T. Simmons party settled there calling it “New Market,” afterwards Tumwater, the first permanent American settlement on the shores of Puget Sound.84
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placed between every four thus [drawing]155 the whole prairie is covered with them almost all perfect in their form, the subsoil is a hard reddish gravel. The hole was dug directly in the centre about 4 feet in diameter and continued until the subsoil was reached on which we found in all a pavement laid of paving stones such as on streets. No kind of articles, bones or anything was found in them — This is the case in many parts of the country, the Indians have no tradition respecting them whatever.156 On the many inquiries made I could get no surmises even respecting them. In their absence will attempt a suggestion myself. They are not tumuli157 nor are they held in any regard by the Indians. I did [Ms. P. 114] learn however that the Medicine men were in the habit of gathering some herbs from them, and it may be the continuance of a practice that has been handed down to them to do They seem fit places for the growth of various herbs & might have been the custom for each tribe or family to cut its own — it is well known that to this day the medicine men have the full power to bring such a custom into use, and still may practice it without being aware of its being traditional. Some have suggested their being formed by the water but I view this as impossible They lie in a flat Prairie and are thousand in number with great regularity in their rows liking them to familiar object to everyone I would say they are prodigious corn hills with quite their regularity, and from the great numbers of them must have been an herculean labour — Having finished our examination, I determined to return to my party at the falls, and accordingly parted with my friend Mr. A. who intended to return to Nisqually. It was my intention of geting some angles on Mt. Rainier from this position but the weather only enabled me to get my Latd. & Long®. —the Horizon being obscured with clouds & my time was too precious to wait a day for the opportunity — never had a more disagreeable & wet ride and was heartily glad to get before a large camp fire, with my party around me, few can imagine the pleasure that one experiences on hard service the hour or two one gets after the labours of the day before a good large fire tending to restore one to cheerfulness and overcome the days fatigues.
155	A symmetrical group of fire mounds which drawing is reproduced in the published Narrative, Volume IV., page 415.
156	In 1905 the present editor obtained from Old Seseenah on the Chehalis Reservation an Indian legend explaining in a mystical way the aboriginal idea of the origin of those mounds. Geologists offer eighteen theories, the most satisfying of which relates to glacial drift as the probable origin of the mounds. See also not 76 above.
157	Meaning burial mounds.Diary of Wilkes in the Northwest
85
12th. [July.]
Started at 7 o'clock with the boats, some hurry scurry many not being prepared when the hour came, but punctuality is everything in this service, did a good days work notwithstanding we had some rain. At Sunset joined Lt. Case Party when I took charge of all [Ms. P. 114a] Boats, pitched tents and took observations for Latitude & Long®, (time)
13th . July.
Off at 7 o'clock precisely all the boats in company some for triangulating others for sounding Started with a general measurement of bases—sent Mr. Totten158 to connect with work of Lt. Carr through a passage, and on his rejoining me, despatched Lt. Budd & Mr. D.159 up over Inlet—& proceeded on with Lt. Case Mr. Eld & others up the main arm — We made Camp at Sunset after a heavy days work — Lt. B. did not return at sunset as he ought To have done in consequence his & Mr. Totten's services were lost the next day I gave him in consequence a reprimand pointing out to him the error he had fallen into of which he seemed well aware. Sent Mr. Hamersly160 to the ship with Limont161 who had been burnt with powder.
14th. [July.]
At 7 o'clock we were again in our boats in consequence of Mr. Totten having the rough draft we could not bring up the work last Evg — this ought always to be done —
Lt. Case & myself triangulating with Mr. Eld162 & Williamson163 sounding — reached the head of the Bay at 3 o'clock at foot of the 3 Butes (western) (seen from Nisqually observatory) at which time I was joined by Lt. Budd & Totten. Went down the Branch & encamped at the mouth of another preparatory to its survey on the morrow —
15th. [July]
Started an hour earlier this morning in hopes of reaching the Ship by tomorrow evg. reached the extreme limits of the arm by 11 o'clock left Mr. Totten to get the Meridian alt®. & sights
158 Midshipman George M. Totten for whom Totten Inlet (locally known as “Oyster Bay”) was named.
159	Joseph Drayton, artist, for whom Drayton Harbor, inner portion of Semiahoo Bay, and Drayton Passage, west of Anderson Island, were named.
160	Midshipman George W. Hammersly, so spelled in the official muster-roll, though variously changed in the diary, charts and published Narrative. Hammersley Inlet, the southwestern arm of Puget Sound was named in his honor, but local usage calls the inlet “Big Skookum.”
161	Joseph Limont, seaman.
162	Passed Midshipman Henry Eld.
163	John G. Williamson, gunner.86
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for chronometer. Sent Lt. Budd to put up signal [Ms. P. 115] and survey the 1st Inlet we encamped in when I proceeded to join him with the other boats. We had not advanced far before it became time to encamp —
16th. [July.]
Off at 7 o’clock. Mr. Hammersly joined [illegible] me yesterday morning finished the survey of the arm & proceeded towards the ship bringing the survey down to him and reached at sunset, in consequence of Mr. Totten not obeying orders despatched him to Mr. Eld with a fresh boats crew at 9 o’clock P.M. & to execute those left with that officer for him besides giving him a good reprimand for his proceeding detaining the work from progressing, and causing fatigue and exposure to his men, think he will not be apt to do it again & hope it may serve to impress with the necessity of obeying strictly their orders.
Found all well on board & ready for Sea Mr. Johnson’s party164 having returned all well — The Cadborough H. B. C°. sch.—Scarborough165 master arrived today — from Frazers River.
These arms of Puget Sound bear very much the same character The soil is light on a subsoil of sand stone & gravel The banks in some places about 100 feet covered with spruce, pines, oaks, alders & arbutus great quantities of seringas in full blossom reminded us of home, and although not partial to its smell heretofore it was found by us all delicious it savoured of civilisation.
[Ms. P. 115a]
Nisqually. as a scite for trade is badly located and I should also think even so for the purposes of the Company, indeed they intend to remove it and have in fact selected another scite about a mile distant back near a stream from which all their waters for this esttablishment has to be brought —
The anchorage is small & the toil of taking things up the hill great although they have comparatively a good road for that purpose. My observatory occupied the brow of this hill & by leveling I found it to be 190 feet above tide and the bob of my Pendulum clock 174 feet 3 inches above the same.
Tide rises 18 feet spring tides and about 12. ordinary or neap
164	Lieutenant Robert E. Johnson’s party which had crossed the Cascade Range to explore what is now eastern Washington. In this diary, Commander Wilkes shows that Lieutenant Johnson misbehaved soon after his return to the ships. This did not deter Wilkes from giving an enthusiastic account of the work done on the journey over the mountains. See Narrative Volume IV., pages 418-474.
165	Captain James Scarborough whose name was afterwards given to what is now known as Neah Bay. The schooner’s name was Cadboro.Diary of Wilkes in the Northwest
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tides H. Water full & change 6.10 P.M. During all the time of our stay at Nisqually there was found to be a great discrepancy between the night and days tide the former not being so high by 2 feet. This was also the case in the Columbia.
Much better places than Nisqually could be found for the location of town or for the purposes of trade just below it between it & Kitron’s Island166 the shores make a small indentation & this small harbour although the water is deep is well sheltered by Kitron's Island from all those which blow with any violence. The S.E., S.W. & N.W. and would be free from any sea, the way might be made quite easy to the summit of the hill here more sloping than further up. There are several fine runs of water near here.
The Farm of the Company extends back towards [Ms. P. 116] the plain on which their Dairy is situated.
The country is thought to be remarkably healthy around these Salt Water Inlets, which afford abundance of fine fish &c. &c. The winter is represented to be mild snow seldom falling and of but short duration.
The Mean temperature as found by our experiments at the observatory was	58°.5 Farh*.
and that at Astoria was but 54.
4.5 in favor of the more northern station — they were both underground about the same time and full 6 feet below the surface. One however was in June & July & the other in August and Septr. These Experiments would lead one to doubt the accuracy of the mode of testing the fact as respects the Mean annual temperature.
The Latitude of Nisqually by many circummeridian observations of [symbol for sun] & stars was found to be 47. 07. 12 N.167 Longitude by eleven culminating Stars, [blank] & [blank] Variation [blank] Dip [blank] Intensity [blank.]
The mean temperature during the month was [blank] the greatest range of ther. [blank] the minimum [blank]
Barometer [blank]
The Indians around Nisqually are few in numbers & a lazy vicious set and exceedingly dirty. They for the most part sleep all
166	The chart accompanying the monograph on Hydrography by the Expedition shows the spelling Ketron. The original honor was for William Kittson of the Hudson’s Bay Company service. The incorrect spelling by Wilkes persists on present day maps.
167	The diarist occasionally writes marginal phrases to catch his eye. On this occasion he wrote “Leo sets,” which information would have value in the astronomical work he was doing.Diary of Wilkes in the Northwest
day & sit up all night gambling with visitors or among them and in this way like all the tribes of this coast they will after parting with all their useful articles dispose of their wife & children & finally of themselves to years of Slavery.
Their clothing seldom consists of more than a blanket or coat made of one and a pair of leather breeches & moccasins, little or no distinction seems to exist among them. [Ms. P. 116a] The chiefs have little or no authority Everyone seems left to take care of himself.
They are addicted to Stealing and will run some risk to effect their object several blankets were reported to have been stolen from the men while asleep although one was on guard at the observatory with loaded arms but a few paces from the spot — They are not inclined to work — & their general food consists of fish, particularly the clams &c. &c. which are obtained here in great abundance, deer & wild fowl in their seasons. They carry on a good deal of bartering for the Cammas root with those who are more in the Interior. but all these Indians may be termed Nomadic for they seldom occupy the same spot over a few months together but change their residence in order to approximate the places where they are supplied with food.
This renders it very difficult to obtain a correct knowledge of their numbers & persons visiting the different parts of the country at different periods of the year would be inclined to over estimate its population.
The Nisqually tribe are few and harmless & diseases are rapidly thinning them off.
Mr. Anderson informed me he had or was making an experiment with some of them to till the land but he found them disinclined to work altho they were more apt than he had given them credit for.
Under Mr. Anderson’s care all the vegetables, fruits &c. thrive well. The soil is light & shingly generally but in places it well adapted to all the wants of the Settlers. Neat cattle, hogs, sheep, &c. thrive uncommonly well. [Ms. P. 103]168
17th July.
I returned yesterday from a surveying excursion with the boats and agreeably to orders found everything ready for sailing, embarked the remainder of the Instruments &c. &c. and prepared for departure. A 2 P.M. the wind sprang up from the
168 The manuscript again turns back in page numbers.Diary of Wilkes in the Northwest	89
westward hove up the anchor and made sail. Lt. Johnstone had been prepared with Pasd. Mid. Eld to cross over to the Chikeles River for the purpose of proceeding down it, to its mouth in Gray's Harbour, and making a survey of it, and the Coast as far as the Columbia River including Shoalwater Bay. on the receipt of his written orders, he came to me to expostulate on them in apparent temper. I refused to have anything to say to him. This was on the Quarter Deck whilst heaving up. I told him not to come and speak to me in that mood & told him to go below, and think over what he was about, and to be ready to leave the ship in 5 minutes, that I was anxious to save the tide, & wished him to take his departure immediately, in about 10 minutes he came to me again, & I would not listen to him. He was dressed as I considered very unofficerlike, having on one of the caps, or hat worn by the Indians, and showed marked disrespect in his manner, & dress to the rules of the ship & navy. On his going below in 5 minutes I ordered Lt. Carr 1st Lt. to send a message for Lt. J. to leave the ship immediately finding the time had expired. I again sent Mr. Colvocoressis to tell Mr. J. that he must positively leave the Ship in five minutes and after the expiration of this time Lt. J. came on deck, came to me in some temper & in this dress before described with my written [Ms. P. 103a] orders in his hand, and on my telling him he must positively leave the ship under those orders, he said he would not obey the orders or words to that effect, and thereupon I took the orders from his hand, he at the time said he wished to keep them, but this I refused and immediately suspended him from duty — I then called Mr. Howi-son169 & told him to substitute the name of Pasd. Mid. Eld in lieu of Lt. Johnstone and ordered Pasd. Mid. Colvocoressis to join Mr. Eld whereupon they immediately left the ship & I filled away bidding adieu to our kind friends Mr. Anderson & Capn. McNeil, and thanking them for their kindness, and hospitality to myself and officers during our stay at the Place (Nisqually) (for remarks concerning it see the foregoing pages). We had a light wind, which enabled us to get through the Narrows before dark and at dark I anchored off the Sth. End of Vashons Island in 27 fathoms water, about one cable length from the shore. Weather fine.
18th [July]
Underweigh at 8 A.M. when the tide served with a light breeze from the westwd. employed beating down the Strait an-
169. James R. Howison, captain’s clerk.90
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chored at 1 P.M. the tide coming in strong, got underweigh again at 6 P.M. & continued beating & drifting down until midnight when I again dropped near its junction with Admiralty Inlet.
19th [July]
Underweigh at 9 A.M. beating down & continued undeweigh until about 2A.M. when it falling calm I again anchored off Apple Cove in 25 fathoms water. [Ms. P. 104]
20th July.
Again underweigh continuing down at 9 A.M. towards sunset it fell calm and I was obliged to anchor off a sand spit in 10 fathoms, water exposed to all the violence of the tide in about yi hour we began to drag with 35 fathoms veered to 80 & although it was not [illegible] during the night yet I found we must have dragged afterwards.
21st July
Discovered the Schr. Cadboro. Capt. Scarborough to Nd of us, he having passed us at night got underweigh at 5 A.M. with a high breeze from the Sd. & Ed. At 8 made the Brig & Launch out to the Nd. ran out of Admiralty Inlet & stood to the westward for New Dunginess Harbour where we anchored in 11 fath*. about 2 P.M. having passed over an extensive shore extending from Protection Island to the Nd. least water had 4^2 fathoms. Brig joined company, at 3 P.M. despatched Lt. Case with 3 Boats to bring up the survey of Whitbey’s Island170 & that of Port Townsend also to correct that of Hoods Canal with work of Porpoise. Sent the Boats to take stations, also put up Signals, also ordered the Brig on Shore off Protection Isld. & find for Base &c. &c. Lt. Comdr. Ringgold came on board with his chart & report.171 The launch had reached him with no accident except the wetting of 70 lbs of bread.
22nd July 23rd
Ordered Lt. Johnstone & Mr. Waldron to rejoin the P.172 & my officers to Ship except Lt. Alden employed the boats on survey of Dunginess Harbour & myself making observations on the
170	Named for Joseph Whidbey of the Vancouver expedition, 1792. His name was frequently misspelled.
171	The Brig Porpoise had been on a survey from May 15, 1841. See entry of that date and note 43. A brief record of the extensive surveys, evidently from the report here mentioned, appears in the Narrativej Volume IV., pages 478-483 and also in the Atlas accompanying the Expedition’s volume on Hydrography. Many geographical names still in use are there charted for the first time.
172	The Brig Propoise.Diary of Wilkes in the Northwest
91
Points for Late. & Longe. Dip, Intensity &c. &c. &c. fine weather & pleasant breezes. [Ms. P. 104a]
24th July
Again employed part of the day trying the dip & intensity belonging to Porpoise in the afternoon surveying, 6 Boats employed surveying; preparing orders for Brig. At night Boats returned from Townshend harbour having completed the survey up to that place & joined the work of Brig & Boats (Hoods canal Survey with that of Whidbeys Island).
25th [July]
Brig parted company for the further prosecution of duties.
Started this afternoon at 4 o'clock with 7 Boats 4 days provisions for the survey of the Labarynth of Islands through which the Canal de Arro173 passes, rough time crossing the straits, heavy sea and all got a wetting such as I have not had for many a day— Boats behaved well & we soon got dry & comfortable over large fires at our Encampment in one of the branches of the Labarynth
26th [July]
Began the Survey at 7 o'clock A.M. we continued hard at work until dark when we had reached the Main Channel all exerted themselves well today & we made great work of it.
27th [July]
Continued our survey off at 7 o’clock and another hard days work in order to join the Brig signals to the north in which we succeeded & in consequence of not finding water were obliged to return to our old encampment of last night which we did not reach unitl near [Ms. P. 105] 10 o'clock having a strong wind & head tide to pull against — This day I was joined by Pasd. Mid. May from the Ship with despatches informing of the loss of the Peacock on the North Spit of Columbia River Bar, all hands saved — this news though bad was a relief to me as I had long been under apprehension of her wreck on some unknown shoal & had made up my mind as soon as I could to go in search of her, it appears she had been at Oahu why and wherefore remains to be seen. I can scarcely believe it, but presume Captn. Hudson must have some very urgent reason to have thus departed from my orders and her delay in reaching the River is now accounted for and if he should have departed from his Instructions without
173 The Spaniard Quimper in 1790 named it Canal de Lopez de Harm after his sailing master. Vancouver changed it in 1792 to Canal de Arro. The British Captain Henry Kellett in 1847 charted it as Haro Strait which name has continued.92
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due reason he has met the fate of all those who run counter to written Instructions. The only reason assigned for his going there by the letters received is a supply of provisions and water this he had full knowledge had been provided for at the Columbia or would be prior to his leaving Oaho in Decer. last and with the knowledge he ought to have possessed of the winds [illegible] was much nearer to him than Oaho could be. I however reserve myself from an expression until I shall have his communications on the subject. It is one satisfaction however to know that both are at last come to light notwithstanding the disaster met with by the Peacock.
28th [July]
Started at on our duties & by 3 P.M. finished the survey of Canal de Arro and reached the ships at sunset The boats all followed in about an hour — found all well — Despatched P. Mid. Sandford to intercept the Brig & countermanded all orders in consequence of the news received — [Ms. P. 105a]
29th July
Blowing all day half a gale of wind from the Westward sent 3 Boats under L,t. Budd to complete the survey of an Inlet which he succeeded in doing by sunset — Mr. Totten went to New Dun-giness Pt. to get sights for [illegible] L,t. Case & myself plotting the work of survey of Canal de Arro.
A thick fog bank to the West & N.W. all day this is a sure sign of wind from that Quarter, sent down our Topgallant & Royal Yards and moved to 80 fathoms.
Despatched a messenger to the Townsend H. to the Brig.
This morning the Brig hove in sight from Port Townshend & came to anchor at 11 o’clock received from her a supply of Bread 200 lbs and a bbl of flour part of that supplied her a week since — preparing to get underweigh strong gale from the westward with thick fog which continued through the day —174 countermanded the Brig orders & retained her with me.
31st [July]
More moderate employed securing the boats hove in to 30 fathoms waited for the tide until 1.30 when I got underweigh with a moderate westerly breeze and made nothing for the 1st 24 hours when we took the ebb & made some progress, fine moon
174 On the margin Captain Wilkes wrote: “Despatched Mr. T. W. Waldron to the Columbia by way of Nisqually and the Cowlitz with despatches for Capt. Hudson, 4 days he will arrive there [illegible] from 31st.”Diary of Wilkes in the Northwest
93
light & fresh breeze from W by N to W by S — pleasant weather. [Ms. P. 106]
August 1841
1st August
This day we have light winds inclining to calms making little progress down the Straits of Juan de Fuca, the Porpoise in company In order not to lose sight of our operations I got 2 bases with Porpoise and mustered drafters to ascertain positions &c. &c. on both sides of the Straits They are as far as we have examined free from dangers the tides are [illegible] and generally during the summer months winds light altho there are days of exception to this on which the winds blow heavy from the N.W. We lately whilst lying in New Dungeness experienced three days in which it blew very strong. We have fine weather and moon light which makes it safer to navigate here than it otherwise would be so hemmed in on all sides by the land. I had no muster today giving the men a day of rest of which their late arduous duties rendered necessary and it has been apparently much enjoyed by them.
2nd August
This day light breezes and calms. The moon was eclipsed last Evg. it had slipped my memory and the consequent fatigue of 2 nights watching the navigation of the ships in an exposed Strait subject to strong currents I was unable to attend to the observations it was very distinct & clear by the report of those who saw it.
At noon of this day I anchored in Port Scarborough178 named after the master of [Ms. P. 107] of a Schr. in the employ of the H.B.C. service who had been greatly desirous of affording me the information that lay in his power.
We have had many Indians on board of the Classet tribe who are quite numerous and inhabit the country about Cape Flattery They seem much disposed to trade and barter and are greatly surprised that so large a ship should want no furs, and it is difficult to make them understand the use of a Man of War George the chief of the Tatouche tribe was on board all day he speaks a few words of English and after taking his likeness he was very communicative. On remarking on [illegible]176 on his nose he said it
175	See note 165 above.
176	In the Narrative Volume IV., page 486, he speaks of this distinguishing mark as a scar.94
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was the custom of all those who had struck or taken whales so to mark themselves it is immediately on the bridge of the nose. All this tribe wear noselets of the this [drawing] just about as large as a lO cent piece. They are generally naked except their blankets or skins and wear the conical hat of Nootka Sound [drawing] wove very tight that makes it impervious to water These they readily sell for tobacco.
This and paulcdee (powder) are the articles in general request. They maintain themselves by fishing and take many whales which is done by using sealskin buoys attached to their harpoons— and are said to be very dexterous in taking them. They are the most numerous tribe we have met with and appear far more intelligent than others seen before of the Clallams & Nisqually. [Ms. P. 108] They are now all at peace and I should think this a good place for Missionary operations They appear quite ignorant of any religious forms. In the afternoon sent all the boats surveying & went myself to take altde. and angles & a pull round Port Scarborough.
Using 3 mi. south of Meridian Altitude it places it in the Island of Neah
48°. 24 41" N.
Longitude by chror.	124. 36. 46.
Variation for August	21. 08. 18. Easterly.
3rd August.
Finished the Survey of Port Scarborough it being calm got off about 1500 galls of water The water is here good and sufficient for a supply for any vessel there is some little difficulty in getting it The brook is small and enters the Bay on a sandy beach which is shallow with our water bags however we found no difficulty in procuring as much as we could take in during the morning a vessel watering with casks would find more difficulty and it would occupy more time but a supply could always be depended on177 I observed the Latitude here again to day & it put it (The Point of Neah Island) in 48°. 24' 40". which agrees with that of Cape Flattery by Vancouver The anchorage is very good shelter with a S.E. or S.W. wind but from the N.W. the sea in a gale would roll in heavy. To anchor here stand into the Bay un-
177 The Makah Indians at Neah Bay in 1905 had put a sign over Neah Creek: “No washing above this sign.“ Indian women were busily washing clothes in the creek between the sign and the bay.Diary of Wilkes in the Northwest
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til you see the Sail Rock178 between Neah Island179 & the main. You will then have 10^> to 11 faths. sandy bottom and a smooth birth. I anchored rather nearer to [Ms. P. 107a]180 the Cape Flattery Point (Point Kilcome)181 of the chart; in a N.W. Wind I would advise anchoring to the Eastward of the Neah Island as it protects you from the sea of that Quarter 10 to 12 faths. of the sandy beach is good about mile or rather less from the Shore. The ebb & flood set here regularly close in — On rounding Ta-touche Island182 (off the Cape) (there is a small Rock called Duncans Rock it is not seen until nearly up with it, the passage is clear between these I ran through with the Wind but I would advise going outside of it as the eddy is strong at times & failing the wind an accident might happen, it is about	mile off) you
will see Neah Island it [illegible] like a point —	[Ms. P. 108a]
and has some ragged trees and bare rocks visible and just within it there is a conical shaped hill back of it, you may haul in for the Bay as soon as you please no dangers exist but what are visible your 1st cast will be 25 fathoms on reaching bottom — & it then shoals gradually to 10 & 8 when you may [drawing of anchor]183 and await the tide or Wind altho I consider the Straits safe yet it is as well to avoid passing the night if possible in them. The wind generally draws up or down, and light winds for the most part prevail. New Dungeness is the next [drawing of anchor] about [blank] miles distant and may be easily known by its long tongue of sand on the Point of which there is an old stump which has the appearance of a beacon and maybe seen several miles the course up the strait is [blank]
If you wish to [drawing of anchor] in New Dungeness give the Point a birth of yi mile where you will have 7 fathoms and round into the Bay where you will soon have 11 & 10 fathoms good holding ground. Water is to be obtained here in abundance near the Point of woods from which the long Sandy Point runs in a small river there is a large village of Clallams here they are not to be trusted altho we found them honest being well armed — on the south of this Bay is sandy beach and there is an
178	Two miles east of Waaddah Island and so called by Wilkes for its shape and color.
179	Now known as Waaddah Island. Captain Kellett in 1847 charted it “Wyadda” from which has evolved the present spelling.
180	Another twist in page numbering.
181	Probably Koitlah Point. In the atlas Wilkes spelled it “Hilcome” although in the diary it is clearly “Kilcome.” No similar name appears in the muster-roll so he was apparently not here trying to honor one of his expedition.
182	Present charts give the spelling Tatoosh.
183	After this he uses frequently the drawing of an anchor ini place of writing the word.96
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entrance into one of the most remarkable basins I have ever seen 4Yz & 5 fath8. may be carried with it when it expands to a large Port capable of containing a large fleet as if it were in a Wet cloth. The clear, fresh water is to be had here also in abundance.184 [Ms. P. 109]
3rd Augst. conted.
At 2 P.M. got underweigh Porpoise in Compy. and stood out with a light N.W. wind and having the Ebb. I succeeded in reaching an offing before the fog set in, these fogs are very thick and are annoying in navigating this coast. They generally last throughout the night and little wind from the westward accompanies them and if a vessel is caught close in to the coast, it would be well if on bottom to drop a small [drawing of an anchor] and thus prevent being carried one knows not where by the current.
At 9 wind light I tacked to the Nd. & Wd. as I could not head better than South and preferred to hove off rather than be sucked in on the coast near the Flattery Rocks. There is bottom all along this part, but if possible I would avoid [drawing of anchor] S. Ends thick fog and light wind from W.S.W.
4th Augt.
Much foggy weather and light winds with a smooth sea all this 24 hours wind from W.S.W. little to be done advancing southd. about 2 miles the hour and by way of doing something useful sounding every hour general in 80 to 90 faths. sounding varying from gravel rock & sand to mention sand of a dark bluish color. Latitude by an indifference observations 48°. 10' North No Longitude obtained. cold and chilly with light drizzling rain. Lost sight of the Porpoise due to fog — employed during the day on the Charts &c. &c. [Ms. P. 110]
5th August.
This 24 hours the weather has been somewhat clear, and the atmosphere somewhat more mild and genial to our feelings — light winds continue from the W.N.W. to W.S.W. with a smooth seas heavy hanging clouds all around the horizon. The Porpoise was discovered at daylight astern of us, and joined company this relieved my mind a little as I was afraid that losing her might occasion delays which I am particularly desirous of avoiding off the River we continued sounding every hour through the night,
184 At the end of this entry, in another handwriting appears the words “Budds Harbor.” See note 13 above.Diary of Wilkes in the Northwest
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and day getting bottom at times in 95 to 80 fathoms and again losing it at 200 to 250 — our course is direct for this River — being in L,ate. 47°. 20' 59" at noon & Longitude 125°06’ — which places me about 25 to 30 miles from the coast. it is extremely satisfactory in navigating this coast to be enabled to get Sounding by which our distance may with some certainty be ascertained from it during the prevalence of fogs &c. &c. & when it might be imprudent to venture to run in for the land, the soundings vary from rocky bottom to a sandy loam — and have been preserved for reference.
The day has been employed in bringing up our plotting of the survey of the Inlets & Sound and connecting them together & arranging the materials for future reference.
Few sick and those who were burnt by Gunpowder are fast recovering from their wounds (see page (117) for continuation] [Ms. P. 117]
6th. August.
Weather moderate. Cape Disappointment in Sight at day light stood in for it Brig in Company at 10:30 made a sail-ship which proved to be whale ship Orozimbo crew badly effected with Scurvy sent him medical assistance . Flying fish in sight coming out, lying too off Columbia River Bar. At Meridian Capn. Hudson came on board. Peacock proved a total loss they saved their lives by good management & Books, papers, charts, &c. &c. except the chror. books and the dip & Intensity needles — Capt. Hudson entered into a full explanation of his disaster, and the manner in which it was brought about, and the whole occurrence is detailed in his report to me which I have attentively read and considered, and must finally come to the conclusion that the Ship was lost by want of prudence and a due consideration of the nature of the place he was to enter that he endeavoured to observe his sailing directions there is no doubt of, but they were not followed is equally so, for they would as certainly have carried him in clear. I incline to think that the Peacock's local attraction had something to do with it, & was and indeed I am well aware has had too much [illegible] for a vessel on this Service, but the idea I have of the Bar, and I am well aware he had from repeated conversations with him at Oaho a year before accident on this subject ought to have made him sufficiently cautious not to have ventured with his ship when he had the services of the flying fish at his disposal by using her he might have made himself ac-98
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quainted with the proper channel, and have avoided any disaster — in another point of view I think he acted injudiciously which was after he found the Breakers [Ms. P. 117a] making across the channel, and having hauled oif he should again have kept away, which if he had been on the correct bearings before must have taken him counter to them. When he kept away the 2nd time, to run through the apparently Smooth place, and I feel satisfied he acted without due consideration when he did so — I am fully persuaded, that he had not made himself fully master of the information he had, and by which he intended to guide himself — and the only thing in my mind that can excuse him from great blame is the noble manner in which he behaved after his ship struck, in endeavoring to extricate her from her situation, which becoming impossible, he finally succeeded in saving about all that was valuable as to the results of his last cruize, and the lives of all hands —
In my report I have in part justified him, for I deemed it my duty under the circumstances, & placed as he is with me and I have endeavored to give it that turn, as will make it in the eyes of the many, a circumstance naturally to be looked for on this service —185
Before quitting this subject I owe it to myself to place it once on record, that few or none can be aware of the difficulties I have had to labour under in the absence of officers to comprehend the nature of the service we are upon, and the mode & manner of acting under orders given them, I have endeavored to be always distinct, and clear, & have in conversation drawn them to my views of the duty, but they go counter to the spirit, though perhaps in their constructions of it (the letter) they exceed so far my intention as to make it operative, (by the waste of time) on other & more [Ms. P. 118] important duties they had to perform. One case in point Capn. Hudson was ordered with the P. & F. F.186 to proceed on a cruise in search of low Islands. On his way the Samoan Group thence to the Ellice, Kingsmill & as far as Ascension & Strongs Island & the Pescadores—in looking for an Island near that of Washington, he spends a fortnight, and does not arrive at
185	It is true he does justify Captain Hudson in the published Narrative, Volume IV, pages 489-495, where the account of the accident reflects great credit on the officers and men. James Dwight Dana, mineralogist, one of the scientific corps on the Peacock, in one of the editions of his later book Corals and Coral Islands gave a graphic account of that wreck. In 1907 the present editor had the pleasure of enterviewing the widow of the missionary J. H. Frost who with her husband helped the survivors of that wreck in 1841. See “Last Survivor of the Oregon Mission of 1840,” in Washington Historical Quarterly, Volume II., Number 1 (October, 1907) pages 12-23. See also notes 59 and 60 above.
186	Peacock and Flying Fish.Diary of Wilkes in the Northwest
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Upolu until a month after the designated time by which he is overtaken by the bad seasons & is detained in his whole progress, and finally gets off the Pescadores, & is unable from want of provisions & the lateness of the season.
8th May (The time at latest for him to have been at the Columbia & so expressed in his orders) & determines it is necessary for him to return to Oaho with his ship & Flying Fish for provisions whereby continuing to the N.West coast he would have much sooner reached them, and where he well knew I had made arrangements to send them, this detains him at least another month, so that he does not arrive at the Columbia until nearly 3 months after the expiration of his time appointed, and besides all this the most important part of his cruize is left untouched, and throwing out Upolu the rest of litle consequence, in short my orders were carried out, but so far different that if I had been informed, or could for one moment have supposed, such a waste of force, time, and object, I would not have believed it but I am at the same time far from imputing delays to Cap1. Hudson I am fully persuaded there is no one who would exert himself more to carry my wishes into execution &; who is always on the alert to do so, but it is from want of knowledge or information required for this service. I have given this instance relative to Cap1. H. but it might be supposed I indulged prejudices towards others, to all knowing that I even could think so of him187
187 The diary was his confidential friend and he gave it his innermost thoughts. He did not allow any of these thoughts detrimental to Captain Hudson to obtrude in the published Narrative where he gives the Peacock’s cruize in Volume VI., pages 3-110. On page 44 he rcords the fact that he named Hudson Island, in the South Sea after the Captain..
Our photostat copy of the original diary ends with the wreck of the Peacock and Commander Wilkes’ own comments on the causes. The published Narrative, Volume IV., pages 495-496, says he shifted his pennant to the Porpoise in which he proposed to survey the lower Columbia, using also the Flying Fish and the saved boats of the Peacock. He transferred Lieutenant-Commandant Ringgold to the Vincennes and ordered him to sail to San Francisco Bay. He sent a party under Lieutenant George F. Emmons on a surveying trip by land from the Columbia to San Francisco. His accounts of that trip, of his own surveys of the Columbia and of Midshipman Eld’s trip down the Chehalis to Gray’s Harbor and along the Coast to the Columbia are in the Narrative, Volume VI., pages 111-148. Near the end of that chapter he prints his letter of gratitude to Chief Factors McLoughlin and Douglass for kindness received from officers of the Hudson’s Bay Company.