Oo C- » . SOUTHERN BRAZIL EQUATOR AMAZON NORTHEAST REGION CENTRAL-WEST REGION SOUTHEAST REGION SOUTH REGION NORTH REGION l-LP-277-8100 IPERS 15376 WITHDRAW** Universe Illinois Libra; y «tWrt,-ai»6§fer?ai9n NOV 51982 UNIVERSITY OF ILLINOIS AT URBANA-CHAMPAIGNWARNING 1. The listing of hotels, restaurants and other business establishments is done solely for the convenience of the user and does not constitute an endorsement of these businesses by the U.S. Navy. 2. Prices quoted should be used as guides only. Check current rate of exchange upon arrival.p0 c. P xoS. b/ predominates in the South and Southeast; Indian influence is noticeable in the North and Central West; and in the Northeast dishes are prepared and seasoned in the traditional way introduced by the African slaves. Meat — beef, pork, chicken, mutton, lobster, shrimp and fish — comprise the backbone of most meals; pork is prevalent, veal and mutton negligible. Here are some of the country's favorite dishes: Soup made with large chunks of chicken and rice, and almost a meal in itself. This is the national dish, a cousin to soul food. It consists of black beans and rice cooked with sausage or tongue, bacon, tomatoes, onions, thin strips of bitter greens, and hot spices. Delicious. Beef steak grilled over an open fire with onions and peppers added. Try not only beef but pork and chicken barbecues—but do not order your meat rare. A variation of "Churraseo." This is a thin steak grilled with onions and tomatoes. Canja Feijoada Churrasco Bife de panelaFrango com arroz or Xinxim de galinha Casquinha de Caranguejo Muqueca de Peixe Muqueca de Camarao - Cosido Vatapa Peru a Brasileira Boned chicken with rice mixed with chopped olives, hard-boiled eggs, green peas, other vegetables. Breaded crab baked in a shell# Fish. Shrimp. A meat and vegetable stew • Shrimp and fish cut up together, cooked with oil and coconut milk, sprinkled with pepper and paprika, and served on a bed of snowy rice. Brazilians do well by fish, lobsters, shrimp, and crabs of all sorts, but for sanitary reasons, raw shellfish should not be eaten. Turkey served with slices of ham. Note: Beef and Pork dishes are reasonably priced on Brazilian menus with the accent on high quality cuts. • The meats generally keep coming as long as you can eat. Pizza - This popular food is reasonable in price, but you'll find it differs substantially from our pizzas. In Brazil the emphasis is on the cheese with very little use of tomatoes. It is not eaten from your hand, but more often eaten with knife and fork, and, tothe shock of some visitors, mustard may be spread on top. The salad greens look marvelous__here, but for sanitary reasons should not be eaten. But you need have no fear of hearts of palm, "palmitos," These are a great Brazilian delicacy, and are inevitably served with practically any main course you order. Being steamed in tins, they are completely safe to eat. The taste is fresh, green, and delicate. Brazilians are not great vegetable eaters, aside from beans. They live mainly on rice; not potatoes, corn or wheat products. Rice is served in countless different ways, similar to the way potatoes are served here in the States. There is a whole range of puddings and desserts that are sweeter than ours. For example there are baba de mo^a, or "maiden’s kisses;" and olho de sogra, "mother-in-law's eye." If you want fruit, it is advisable to stay with peeled fresh fruits and melons. They are marvelous. Fresh figs are especially good. Cheeses are also good. Ice creams are rich, delicious, and slightly different from those found in the United States. Coffee is served after your dinner, but soft drinks (Pepsi, Coke, and "guarana") may be ordered with the meal. Here are a few words that will come in handy when eating out: Please thank you waiter coffee with milk tea milk juice soup fried eggs por favor obrigado gar<£on (gar-son) cafd com leite cha leite suco sopas ovos estreladosham scrambled eggs bread butter sugar salt fish meat pork beef beef steak veal lamb chicken chicken and rice potatoes rice fried dessert cheese fruit ice cream pie cake drinks wine beer fruit juice sandwi ches ham and cheese ham grilled cheese bill presunto ovos mexidos pao manteiga a^ucar sal pe ixe carne porco carne de vaca bife vitela carneiro frango frango e arroz batatas arroz frito sobrernesa queijo fruta sorvete torta bolo, pasteis bebidas vinho cerveja suco, refresco sandwiche mis to presunto queijo frito conta Caution. Be somewhat wary of food sold by street vendors and, when choosing a restaurant on you own, remember that clientele is a key indicator of the caliber of food being served. Remember also that if a restaurant or vendor's stand appears unsanitary, it usually is.DRINKS Drinks of all kinds are plentiful, but under no circumstances should tap water be drunk anywhere in the country. It is for the most part contaminated. Use their bottled water. It is cheap, potable, readily available, and even Brazilians drink it. Order bottled aqua natural — sem gas or "seem gahs" for non-carbonated, com or "cohm" for carbonated. Trade name mineral waters (Lindoya, Itaparica, Caxambu, Dias d'Avila and Sao Laurenco) are also available. Milk is another no-no unless you ascertain it to be pasteurized. Most international brands of bottled soft drinks (Coke, Pepsi, etc.) are bottled in Brazil, plus a strictly Brazilian entry, "guarana," a refreshingly different tasting, brownish drink made from an Amazon fruit of the same name. Guarana champagne is also a favorite, with a more delicate taste, and costs just a few pennies more. Mate is another. This is somewhat like tea and can be taken very hot or ice-cold; and is supposed to be very good for one's health. There are many fruit juices, called "sucos" or "refrescos," that are very good and refreshing drinks. Beer and alcoholic beverages are much stronger and generally higher in price than here in the States. Their draft beer called Chopp (pronounced Shoppy) and their bottled or canned beer (Cerveja) are excellent. Antartica, Brahma, Skol and Cerpa, in cans or bottles, are the leading brands. Overall, their beer is rated among the best in the world. The typical drink of the country is "batida," an apertif cocktail. It is a potent sugarcane extract served in fruit juice. Ultra-sweet, this beverage has a kick, so watch it! Imports, especially scotch, are very expensive and few Brazilians drink these liquors. Less expensive are "nacionals," the domestic liquors, such as gin and rum (approximately $2.50 a fifth - 30 to 60$ for bar drinks). Local wines are also good. They should be ordered dry. They taste like California wines and their prices are comparable with like wines in the States.SHOPPING What to buy? Far and away the best buys in Brazil are semi-precious gems: sapphires, rubies, opals, etc. The variety of Brazilian stones is startling: amethyst, topaz, tormaline, emerald, diamond and other precious stones, some of which represent 90% of the world's supply. They can be bought for about half what you would pay for like merchandise in the States because skilled gem cutters are more plentiful here than in other countries, and because Brazil supplies 50% of the world's diamonds. Birthstones are one of the more popular items sold and, ordinarily, they make a superb gift if you are certain of the desired color. Another plus is to have older jewelry restyled. It can be done in a hi-style manner at modest cost. Most other merchandise sold tends to be more expensive and its workmanship does not appear to be up to U.S. standards. However, reasonably good buys can be made in blown ornamental glassware, crystal, rosewood furniture, wood carvings and bowls of all sizes, leather goods, pewter products (especially replicas of antique candlesticks, jugs, coffeepots, etc.) and Bahian dolls ($2-15 U.S.). There is also a wide diversity of handicrafts (artesanato) from which to choose. Bahia is noted for its famous artists both in oils and tapestry, Portuguese tiles, and marvelous artifacts. A curio to be found all over Brazil is the "Figa," a good luck charm originally worn by slaves as a fertility symbol. Formed by a clenched fist with thumb between the second and third finger, and still worn by large numbers of Brazilians, it has now become a national symbol. It is seen in conspicious places such as on billboards, in advertisements, on T.V. programs, in newpapers, and made into adornments on a great many small and large articles. You will not want to come home without one. The "pena," in the form of a bracelet, pin, necklace , or larger ornament, is another such charm indigenous to Brazil and widely worn.U.S. BRAZIL U.S. BRAZIL U.S. BRAZIL U.S. BRAZIL U.S. BRAZIL U.S. BRAZIL U.S. BRAZIL SIZES OF LADIES WEAR BLOUSES 14 16 18 20 36 38 40 42 DRESSES (VESTIDOS) 14 16 18 20 22 24 42 44 46 48 50 52 SHOES (SAPATOS) 5 51/2 6 61/2 7, 71/2 8, 81/2 9, 91/2 34 35 36 37 38 39 40 41 SIZES OF MENS WEAR SHIRTS (CAMISAS), OVERCOATS 14 141/2 15 151/2 16 *61/2 17 171/2 36 37 38 38/40 41 42 43 44 SUITS 32 34 36 38 40 42 44 47 48 50 SHOES (SAPATOS) 6, 61/2 7, 71/2 8, 81/2 9, 91/2 10, 101/2 11, 111/2 12, 121/2 39 40 41 42 43 44 45 SOCKS, STOCKINGS 81/2 9, 91/2 10, 101/2 11 35 36 37 38 39 40Carnival in Rio, which begins the Saturday before Ash Wednesday (usually in February) and continues for four days and nights, is world renowned. Like the Mardi Gras in New Orleans, at this time of the year there are costume balls, dancing in the streets, colorful parades and music everywhere. Business virtually comes to a halt. Many other carnivals and fiestas are also held throughout the country at various times of the year, to commemorate special occasions, and it is almost impossible to travel around without bumping into some of them. There are many good but rather expensive night clubs for visitors in the better hotels of the cities. Most have good dance floors, music, and floor shows. There are also cabarets and taxi dance halls with hostesses, but patronage of these places is not recommended. Brazilian football (soccer) is the national sport and Rio has the largest soccer stadium in the world. Pele, the world renowned soccer player, is a Brazilian, and you will see his name and picture everywhere. Outdoor sports can be practiced almost year-round. Golf, horseback riding, swimming, basketball, volleyball, and tennis are all available, mainly at private clubs. Arrangements for competition and use of these club facilities can ordinarily be made through the U.S. Consulate in the particular port you are visiting. Beaches throughout Brazil are very beautiful, but because of strong undertows the water can be dangerous. Red flags, when seen along the beach, designate that the water is too dangerous for swimming.Jan. 1 Jan. 6 Jan. 20 Feb/March (not fixed) April (not fixed) April 21 April (3rd week) May 1 May 13 June June (not fixed) August New Year's Day; Universal Brotherhood Day (Holiday). Epiphany Festival. Gifts used to be exchanged on this day; now more commonly done at Christmas. Sao Sebastiao Festival. Carnival (Monday and Tuesday). Holy Week. Good Friday. Tiradentes (National Holiday). Indian Week. Exposition sale of Indian crafts. Labor Day (National Holiday). Abolition of Slavery (1888). Festivals in homage to St. Anthony (13th), St. John (24th) and St. Peter (29th). Feast of Corpus Christi; traditional procession with solemn Mass in all States. Army WeekSept. 1-7 Sept. 21-30 Sept. 27 October Oct. 12 Nov. 2. Nov. 15 December Dec. 8 Dec 25 Week of Independence celebrating Brazil's Independence (1822); culminates in Independence Day (Sept. 7) Spring Festival. Feast of St. Cosme and St. Damien "Do-Um." Air Force Week. Our Lady (N.S.) Aparacida (National Holiday). All Souls Day (National Holiday). Proclamation of the Republic (1889) (National Holiday)• Navy Week. Feast of Our Lady of Conception. Christmas (Holiday), gifts exchanged.RIO DE JANEIRO Rio is the second largest city in the country and 4,750,000 enchanting "cariocas" — as the native born of Rio are called — await you. It is the favorite South American city for tourists, the "fun capital" of the country, and when Brazilians want to take a vacation they automatically think in terms of Rio. Located in Southeastern Brazil, on Guanabara Bay, which is some eighteen miles long and about six miles wide, and framed against a rugged mountain backdrop, it is one of the loveiest cities in the world. Along the shore in the downtown district there are docks and ferry landings; farther along at Flamengo, Copacabana, and Ipanema are some of the most beautiful beaches in the world. The entrance to the Bay is dominated by the 1,296 foot Sugar Loaf Mountain with a high T.V. antenna on its top; and behind the city, on Corcovado Peak, stands the dramatic 102-foot statue of Christ the Redeemer. Generally speaking, Rio is a handsome city with remarkable modern architecture and with streets of lovely and most intricate mosaics. However, one sees cracked or chipped stone on the outside of buildings; inside, paint is often lacking and tiles missing; and, on the streets, small stones or whole sections of mosaics are sometimes missing from the lovely designs. Rio is a crowded city - not only with people but with automobiles. The congestion of traffic is due to the city's unique location; that is, by the difficulty of getting from one section of the city to another except through tunnels dug under mountains. These tunnels are always overcrowded. And Rio, glorious as it appears, is not completely a dream city* Far from it. Like most cities, it has slums of a repellent nature, and the Rio version, called "Favelas", can be described as nothing more than shantytowns. A collection of shacks, built on the steep slopes of the mountains that back up Rio, they are completely without water or sanitary facilities, and built so poorly 3 1they can barely protect their many occupants from the rain. About a million (25%) of Rio's population, mostly blacks, live in the "favelas*" They must laboriously climb up and down these mountains day after day, for there is little transportation to the "favelas", and every drop of water has to be hauled on their shoulders to the tiny shacks or collected from rainwater. The port of Rio itself is of great strategic importance for several reasons* First, the Bay of Guanabara is one of the largest protected deep water anchorages in the world. It is an excellent base for naval operations in the temperate zone of the South Atlantic, and many installations are here* Second, it is the cultural center of the nation* Third, in this region (Rio and Sao Paulo) are located most of the important manufacturing activities of the nation and two of the greatest port facilities of South America* Further, these two areas are the gateways to the interior of the States of Sao Paulo and Minas Gerais where the most important agricultural and mining activities of the country are located* Fourth, besides controlling access to the interior of the country, Rio effectively interdicts almost all rail and highway traffic between the north and south of Brazil, inasmuch as almost all such transportation is located in the coastal zone* Among the cities of Brazil, Rio leads in cement production, takes a second place in paper and pig iron production, third place in piece goods, chinaware, rolled iron and steel, fourth place in metal and chemical products, and fifth place in foodstuffs* Frcm the port of Rio flow exports of coffee from the States of Rio de Janeiro and Minas Gerais, oranges frcm the State of Rio de Janeiro, and manganese from Minas Gerais* Chief imports are machinery, wheat and coal earning from the United States, Argentina and Great Britain*CENTRAL RIO PRESIDENTS J I—Q VAROAS M UAFleet Landing Fleet Landing is across from the First Nava.' District. U,S. Consulate The U.S. Consulate occupies a ten-story building, in the center of the city, at Avenida President* Wilson, 147 (Tel: 252-8055). TRANSPORTATION In Rio there are buses to and from almost everywhere, but they are often crowded beyond belief an<5. are not recommended unless both the route and destination are known. You enter from the rear, pay, and exit through the front door. Fares approximate 30 cruzeiros (15$). To reach the cable car at Sugar Loaf, take bus #4 from in front of the Naval Club or any bus marked "Lins-Urca" and ask to be dropped at Praia Vermelha. To reach the Corcovado train station, take any bus marked "Cosme Velho," including buses 422, 497 and 498 from center city, and 583 frorc Copacabana. Taxis (usually Volkswagens) are reasonable, plentiful except between the hours of 1800-2000, and offer a good means of transportation. A typical fare from downtown Rio to Copacabana, taking about twenty-five minutes, costs only about 300 cruzeiros ($1.50) during the day. Between 2300 and 060 0, and on Sundays and holidays, the fare doubles. Few drivers speak English, metered cabs should be used, and a 10% tip given. Also have with you small denominations in Brazilian coins, as taxi drivers seldom have change. Lota^ao cars, also called "Frescoes," are small vehicles operating from point to point, similiar to a bus line, charging 100 - 120 cruzeiros (50 to 60$). They generally have the destination and cost marked on the windshield. These vehicles operate betweenvarious sections of the city, and stop to pick up or discharge passengers at points along the way. Rio is a hazardous city in which to drive and, for that reason, cars without Brazilian drivers should not be rented. A bridge, ferryboats, and hydrofoils connect Rio with Niteroi on the other side of Guanabara Bay. Crossings are cheap. Hydrofoils charge about 40 cruzeiros (20$), and ferryboats 10 cruzeiros (5$). A 30-minute cog railroad trip from Cosme Velho to the tip of Corcovado in an open air car, at a round-trip fare of 400 cruzeiros ($2.00), is fun and from there you can see the entire city and bay. The Sugar Loaf cable car crossing, a terrific panorama of bay front, beaches and mountains gives a directly opposite view that is equally entrancing. Round-trip fare approximates 500 cruzeiros ($2.50). iOTELS Rates in the better hotels range from U.S. $40 per lay for singles to U.S. $130 per day for doubles. The ^opacabana Palace (beach), Excelsior (beach), Serrador ind Gloria are among the best hotels in Rio. An excellent hotel in the medium price range is the Empire Hotel, Rue da Gloria 46. Hotels in a range varying between a minimum of U.S. $42 (single) and a naximum of U.S. $100 (double) are Savoy Othon, Suanabara Palace (dock area), San Francisco (dock irea), Miramar (beach), Apa, Hotel Canada and Ambassador (downtown). There are countless other good lotels. Rates, unless otherwise noted, include a :hree-course breakfast (cheese, fruit, rolls and coffee) or a continental breakfast, and the hotel :ax. Most have a 10% service charge and you are axpected to tip porters and chambermaids 20 to 25 cruzeiros (10 to 15$) for services rendered.FOOD AND DRINK Practically all hotels have dining rooms where the food is good and reasonable. Popular eating spots include the "churrascarias," outdoor barbecues where one can sit in an open patio and watch the meat being broiled over coals. There are also many counter-type restaurants called "lanchonetes" in Rio, which are popular because they are fast, clean and cheap. There are also numerous sidewalk soda fountains — Bob's, Rick's, Chaplin, Zero, and Gordon's, which are very good, popular and cheap. Milk is not considered safe for consumption. Drinking water is unsafe; order bottled water. Beef served in most restaurants is good, and the Brazilian black beans are excellent. Rice is usually served with all main courses, with or without fried potatoes. Fresh vegetables, which may cause dysentery if not properly cooked, should be eaten only in the better hotels. Coffee is served very strong and black. Liquid refreshments are reasonably priced, except for imported Scotch and Bourbons which are very expensive. Least expensive are the domestic liquors such as Gin and Rum (approximately $2.50 a fifth). Local beer costs about 35 cents per 16-oz bottle. A draft beer called Chopp (pronounced Shop) and a bottled/canned beer called Brahma are excellent. Local wines are also very good, inexpensive, and should be ordered without ice. All hard drinks are served well iced, but are still stronger than those encountered in the States. Guarana, a Ginger Beer, is a good soft drink, and Coca Cola and Pepsi are plentiful. Cacha^a, a native drink, has a high alcoholic content and produces sudden, violent and uncontrolled reactions in individuals who imbibe. Generally, meals vary in price from $15 to $20 for an expensive meal, $8 to $12 for a moderate meal, and $5 to $7.50 for an inexpensive meal. In tipping, agenerous 10% of the bill is usually given to the waiter• Here is a list of restaurants that were recommended in two or three guides on Rio: Downtown Alba Mar - Praga Marechal Ancora 184, excellent view of the harbor. Specializes in seafood. Very old, good, and moderately priced. Cabaca Grande - Rua do Ouvidor 12, best seafood in Rio. Lunch and early dinner. Churrascaria Gaucha - Rua Laranjeiras 114, attractive and colorful. Excellent service. Good pork and beef. Seafood prepared over open fire. American Club - Rio Branco 133, 21st floor for quick lunch, 22nd for marvelous service and dining. Bill for three, approximately Cr $125 ($7) - drinks, delicious feijoada, dessert and coffee. Fantastic panoramic view. Copacabana Area Churrascaria Jardim - Rua Republica do Peru 225 Wonderful steaks and chops cooked over a blazing hearth. Ariston - Rua Santa Clara 18, indoor-outdoor. Good shrimp and steak. Moderately priced. Ouro Verde - Copacabana Beach, Aveneu Atlantica 1456. Swiss restaurant in hotel of the same name. Mammoth menu. Good food and service. Expensive. Rain - Santa Clara 8, Brazilian specialities. Moderate. \Chalet Suisse - R. Xavier da Silveira 112. Swiss food in Alpine chalet. Music. Expensive. Bahianinha - Copacabana Beach, at the extreme end. It is a simple place, quite inexpensive, and best for lunch or an informal dinner. The food is Brazilian, and the emphasis tends to be upon seafood, although there are some poultry dishes. The specialty here is "vatapa," the famous shrimp dish. Le Bee Fin - Avenue Copacabana 178. Very fine French restaurant. Small and inexpensive. Ipanema Area Cabana - Pra^a Nossa Senhora da Paz 116. Sidewalk cafe. Spanish. Very good and inexpensive. Antonio1s - Avenue Bartolomea Mitre 297. Very small, intimate. Food and service reasonably good. Moderately priced. La Mole - Rua Dias Ferreira 113. Probably the most popular restaurant in Rio. Always full, lunch and dinner. Good to great but not gourmet. Indoor and outdoor and unpretenious. Inexpensive. RECREATION Spectator Sports Soccer (Brazilian football) is the national sport and Rio has the largest soccer stadium in the world. The six-tier Maracana Stadium, near Quinta da Boa Vista, is a sports city and really something to see. It seats 150,000 rabid futebol fans — and has a nine foot moat to keep them away from referees and rival teams. Within the stadium there are lounges and living accommodations for 150 athletes, space for 58 * bars, 45 candy shops, 90 cigarette stores, and elevators to take you to the various tiers. Soccer games are played on Saturdays at 2100, Sundays at1700. Reserved grandstand seats (arquibancadas) cost about $15 for an upper-tier midfield location to $8 for a lower-deck ticket. An unreserved bleacher ticket will cost you $1.40, and you can stand for 50$. Unlike the fare at many U.S. stadiums, food is cheap here. Sandwiches run for about 50$, a can of beer about 25$, soft drinks 15$. To reach the stadium, take bus 234 or 241 from Praca Maua, or bus 4 34 from Copacabana Beach. A cab from center city costs about $1.50. Nearby is the indoor 30,000 seat Maracanazinho which features basketball, athletics, circuses, and ice shows. The Jockey Club, fifteen miles from downtown Rio, has a splendid race track near Jardin Botanico (Botanical Gardens). It is worth losing money just to see the track! Eight races are held on Saturday and Sunday at 1400; Monday at 2015. The climax of the racing season is the running of the Grande Premio Brasil, Brasil's Belmont Stakes or Kentucky Derby, run annually on the first Sunday in August. You can make win (vencedor), place (place), or show bets from Cr $10 0 (50$) up. Admission charges $1 to $2. To get there, take bus 172 or 178 from Pra^a Maua, or bus 438, 558 or 592 from Presidente Vargas and Rio Branco. Non-Spectator Sports Upon request, the U.S. Consulate or Naval Attache can ordinarily arrange for competition in basketball, soccer, or other sports and for transportation to special events that may be taking place during your visit. As a rule, golf clubs, tennis clubs, riding clubs, and yacht clubs in Rio have excellent facilities, but non-members must have guest cards. Listed below are some of the various sports you can participate in: Golf. The Gavea Golf and Country Club, located on the coast road in Jardim Gavea, offers complimentary facilities to officers and enlisted men who haveclubs. Green fees approximate Cr $1200 ($6.00), plus Cr $300 ($1.50) caddy fee. i Tennis. The Naval Club at Piraque, and the Leme Tennis Club located one block off Avenida Atlantica, offer complimentary facilities to officers. The Rio ' de Janeiro Country Club, located on Ipanema Beach, is 1 also primarily a tennis club international in membership, and non-members must have guest cards. Horseback Riding. The Sociedade Hipica Brasileira provides horseback riding to guests of members. Swimming Pools. The Naval Club at Piraque offers complimentary facilities to officers; and the Rio de Janeiro Country Club, located on Ipanema Beach, also has an excellent swimming pool. Non-members must have guest cards. Sailing. Small craft sailing on Guanabara Bay is t popular, and organized regattas and races between the Yacht Club of Rio de Janeiro and Niteroi take place rather frequently. M Fishing. Rio offers fair surf, sea, and bay fishing (snook, pompano, and bluefish), but stream and river fishing is not interesting, as there are no game fish. Hunting. Good hunting does not exist within a sixty mile radius of Rio. Beyond that range there is some good duck and small game shooting. For larger game it is necessary to go to the more remote parts of the country. A permit is required to carry or own firearms. Beaches r There are miles and miles of beautiful beaches in the southern part of Rio - crowded beaches or secluded lagoons, rough surf or calm sea. These beaches offer almost unlimited possibilities throughout a seasonwhich lasts practically the entire year. Watching the assorted shapes and sizes jogging, sunning, bicycling, jumping, volleyballing, kite flying, walking, swimming, munching, and peddlers all over the beach trying to sell you something you don't really need, is the best possible way to get to know the Cariocas and their way of life. Any day from 0800 to 1400 is beach watching time (after that beaches are comparatively deserted due to wind and surf conditions), but Sunday is the crowded best. If you're hungry, and aren't thinking, you might possibly be tempted by vendors of fresh pineapple and coconut, soft drinks, peanuts, unwrapped candy, ice cream, and dozens of other items. Regarding all of these edibles sold on the beach, there is one definite piece of advice: DON'T PARTAKE OF THEM. More often than not they are unsanitary. Incidentally, there are few places to change clothes at Copacabana Beach and it is best that you have a swim suit on underneath street clothes. Also take along a beach towel to lie on because there are small sand flies and tiny worms in the sand. Further, once on the beach, never leave your robe, slippers, sunglasses, or anything of value unattended while swimming. It will be gone when you get back. Despite all these precautions to be taken, under the right circumstances the beaches can be an absolutely delightful place to pass the time. The beaches of Flamengo and Botofago are the closest to downtown Rio, but they are the dirtiest and most crowded in Rio. Praia Vermelha, about fifteen minutes from the city, at the foot of Sugar Loaf Mountain, is likewise crowded and dirty. At these beaches the water is calm because they are on the inland lagoon side. For Atlantic Ocean waves, for the most action, and the popular favorite, go to Copacabana Beach. It is a fine beach, running in a gradual curve for severalmiles beside Avenida Atlantica, and in front of seemingly endless rows of expensive hotels, luxury hotel apartments, cafes, and shops. Recently cleaned up, its boardwalk repaved in swirling black and white mosaics, it is usually packed solid. A highlight here are the imaginative bird-shaped papagayo kites flown by nearly every youngster on the beach. Further out, the crowds are thinner and more chic: Ipanema, Leblon, and Leme. There are fewer outside visitors here, and these beaches attract more of the upper class. They are also considered the best for bathing from the standpoint of cleanliness and safety. In general, the waters are their calmest in the morning. The waves tend to build as the day wears on, and by late afternoon you can have a vigorous time trying to swim. All beaches have lifeguards in motorboats. On the Atlantic, at Copacabana, Ipanema, Leblon, and Leme, the sea is treacherous and on many days dangerous. Swimming in the ocean should at all times be confined close to shore. The lifeguard stations, known as "postos," fly pennants indicating whether or not it is safe to swim. White denotes a calm sea; white with a red triangle, lifeguard on duty; green or blue, bathing permitted; and red, bathing dangerous. To reach the beaches, take bus 415, 438, or 472 from Ave. Pres. Vargas and Rio Branco; or from Pra^a Mahatma Gandhi, take any of these busses: 119, 121, 122, 125, 128. Fare is under 20$ to the furthest point. At night, the beaches are quite another place for strollers and bench sitters. On certain nights, candles are lit on the beaches; these indicate that someone is practicing "macumba," the voodoo of the natives. ENTERTAINMENT/CLUBS/BARS Rio is a city of amusement and evenings out and, when you say entertainment, you are talking the Brazilian language. They are prepared to give you the best diversions possible. You'll find everythinghere: from Carnival to Las Vegas-type shows to piano bars and anything in between. Carnival in Rio (during February) is the biggest event of the year, and business virtually comes to a standstill. It outdoes New Orleans' Mardi Gras in gaiety, color, and excitement; and lasts for four days and nights. There are parties everywhere - in private homes, in clubs, in hotels, and on the streets. In fact, it really seems like one big party. Costumed dancers, masked and unmasked, roam the streets, cavorting to the music of gay sambas. Confetti and streamers fill the air; fireworks light up the sky; and everybody loves everybody else - at least until the climax of the Carnival, the Grand Masquerade Ball, when prizes are awarded for the best costumes! Cariocas come alive in the wee hours. If you are a night person, waste no time in center city. Shoot for Copacabana or Ipanema, where the later the hour the wilder the beat of the bossa nova and the latest hip-action step. The cost for dancing and entertainment runs from a minimum or cover charge ($2 to $6), to $50 a couple for entertainment including dinner at some of the better hotels. There are also several night clubs in the downtown section of the city, more properly called cabarets, that usually provide hostesses; and scattered about are taxi dance halls. Patronage of these two kinds of clubs is not recommended. Some of the most frequented clubs and bars are: Expensive category: Golden and Midnight Room in the Copacabana Palace Hotel Night and Day Room in the Serrador Hotel (a formal elegant place where a $13 cover charge gets you one of the best floor shows in Rio in a futuristic setting)Fred's Sucata (a high-decibel spot for the under-25-set t gyrating to live and recorded music) Sacha1s, (Copacabana Beach) r -Medium priced; t Canecao, R. Venceslau Bras 215, Botafogo (246-0617), downtown. It is huge, very popular, and considered by many to be the best club in Rio. Here you will find top floor shows, two orchestras, and full stage program for about $6 cover. Beer 80$ a stein. Bierklause (Copacabana Beach) New York City Discotheque (Ipanema Beach) —Reasonable priced smaller bars; % Scotch Castelinho ~ # Cangaceiro La Bohema ■ Baccarat (good entertainment) , Crazy Rabbit (one of many piano bars and a | favorite watering hole for the young), at Copacabana j Beach. ; Katakombi (samba rules on the stage and on the j dance floor) ^ Lord Jim (Ipanema Beach)Clube Naval, Avenida Rio Branco and Almirante Barroso (Tel: 242-6090) Clube de Rio de Janeiro, Avenida Pasteur near Sugar Loaf (Tel: 238-0690) —Private Club (Chiefs and Petty Officers): Associa^ao Dos Suboficiais e Sargentos da Marinha, Rua Conselheiro Saraiva 22 (Tel: 223-2457). -—Private Club (All Navy Men): Caso Do Marinheiro, Avenida Brasil (Tel: 230-4510) Two expensive Copacabana clubs that feature good-looking dance hostesses are the Bolero, Avenida Atlantica 1910 (upstairs), and the Holiday, Atlantic and Carvalho. Music and Theatre The Teatro Municipal is Rio's Carnegie Hall, the home of the National Symphony Orchestra and the ballet. Throughout the winter season (June to September) many domestic and foreign guests appear. Other concerts and recitals are also given at the National School of Music and the Sala Cecilia Meireles. Movies are plentiful and more new houses are being constructed. There are American, British, French, Italian, Mexican and Brazilian films which can be seen for about 40 to 50$*Stores are generally open every day, except Sundays, from 0900 to 1730. In the beach areas many stores and shops stay open until 2000, and are also open on Sundays. The better shops and stores usually have one price, but you can try bargaining in small shops. Prices there are sometimes double the actual value of the merchandise, and a buyer might do well to practice comparative shopping before making a purchase. Probably - no surely, the outstanding shopping bargain in Rio is semi-precious set/mounted stones (amethysts-purple, topazes - yellowish to brownish, aquamarines - blue, and tourmalines - can be any color) in rings, brooches, earrings, necklaces, bracelets, and you name it. Prices range from just a few dollars all the way up to several hundred, depending upon what you select, the quality of the stone, its scarcity, etc; but generally speaking, the same stone you buy in Rio will cost you double that amount in the United States. Now where do you go for these semi-precious stones? Unless you know gems, only reliable jewelers should be patronized. Recommended stores are: *Amsterdam - Copacabana and downtown, Avenida Atlantica 1782, and Avenida Rio Branco 156-C. Burle Marx - Copacabana, Rua Rodolfo Dantas' 6. *H. Stern - Copacabana and downtown, Avenida Atlantica 1782, and Avenida Rio Branco 173. (Here you can tour the workshops of the world's largest jeweler, and see jewelry being cut and set). E. Missagia - Avenida Rio Branco 151-2 0 Anda. Reliable with good prices.Maximino - Copacabana and downtown, Rua Santa Clara, and Avenida Rio Branco 25, 17th floor* Sauer - Copacabana, Avenida Atlantica 1782-C. *Star - Copacabana, Rua Duvivier. *These stores offer discounts to military personnel, if specifically requested at the time of purchase. Souvenirs are usually the most difficult of all items to pick out but here one in particular stands out. It is the "figa," a small representation of a hand with the thumb inserted between the second and third fingers. It is carried as a protection against evil or a bringer of good luck. Those made of plastic may be purchased for a few pennies; those made of gold and precious gems may cost thousands of dollars. Most buy the simple plastic or metal ones, which may be added to a necklace, key, chain, or charm bracelet. However, for best protection from the evil-eye the "figa" should not be purchased by the person it's supposed to protect; rather it should be received as a gift. So have someone buy one for you, or since the "figa" makes an ideal gift, buy one for soneone else. Other typical souvenirs available include "butterfly" trays, typical dolls, items of Jacaranda (Brazilian rosewood), and the bird kites of Copacabana beach. For those interested, paintings, rocks, copies of old Portuguese tiles at bargains, rubber overshoes ($1.50), watches and perfumes from reputable dealers, and leather and suede articles all make for good buys. Three good shops for curios and gifts are: Casa Hugo - Rua Buenos Aires 91, woodcarvings, leather goods, native jewelry. Zitrin's Joias - Copacabana and downtown, Avenida Atlantica 1532 and Rua Buenos Aires 110, woodcarvings, leather and alligator goods, metal craft, and jewelry.Lojas Americanas and Lojas Brasileiras, on Gonsalves Dias near Ouvidor, necklaces fashioned from Brazilian nuts - all for under $1.00. An unusual store at Copacabana Beach is: Liane Souvenirs - Rua Santa Clara 27. It features Indian masks of palm and straw at $2 and up. Wooden art pieces, Bahian dolls, and stone ashtrays are interesting gift items, too. Two recommended galleries, open 1600 to 2200, are: Galeria Bonino De Arte - Copacabana, Rua Barata Ribeiro 578. Petite Galerie - Ipanema, Rua Barao Da Torre 220. A recommended tile and native ceramic shop is: Casa E Jardim - Rua Buenos Aires 79 A recommended rock shop is: Vernon - Copacabana, Avenida Atlantica 2364 Also interesting and very uniquely Brazilian is the locally popular musical instrument called the "berimbau," which makes a good gift for someone who plays a stringed instrument, or perhaps it could be used for a wall decoration. Additionally, if you like the local music, visit a phonograph shop and bring back a long-playing record for yourself or one of your friends. Every Sunday, the Pra^a General Osorio in Ipanema is host to a fair that draws thousands of locals. Youthful vendors display their wares, and prices range from under $1 to several hundred dollars. The most popular items for sale are paintings, leather goods, inexpensive jewelry, hippie clothes, etc. Hours are from 0900 to 1800.Certain grocery store items also make for an amusing and worthwhile gift to bring back home* For instance, five or ten pounds of coffee which is indeed very good; Brazil nuts (called "castanha-do-para") that are cheap, fresh and very delicious; and canned palmito (heart of Palm - used in salads) which is hard to come by in the United States. THINGS TO SEE The highlights of any vist to Rio would be a trip to Sugar Loaf Mountain, to Corcovado (Hunchback) to see the imposing statue of Christ the Redeemer, to the Botanical Gardens, and to the beaches (principally Copacabana)• Sugar Loaf Mountain (Pao de A^ucar). This huge, barren, cone - shaped rock is the most famous landmark in Rio. It towers 1,230 feet above the entrance to Guanabara Bay and is only a few minutes from the center of the city. The Sugar Loaf cable car crossings, a terrific panorama of bay front, beaches, and mountains, is an enthralling view. The glasssided car leaves Praia Vermelha in Botofago every half hour from 0800 to 2200 on the first stage of the trip (5 minutes) to a 625-foot hill known as Urea. This is a very mild, diagonal ride. Second stage, in another glass cage, is straight up over water (5 minutes) to a lookout from which you have, on a clear day, an excellent view of the city and its environs, Copacabana, and the whole Bay. From center city, bus 442 is your best bet, or take any bus marked "Lins-Urca" and ask to be dropped at Praia Vermelha. Round trip, up and down Sugar Loaf, costs $2.50. By taxi, it is but a few minutes from Flamengo, about 15 minutes from Copacabana. Corcovado (Hunchback) and the Monumental Statue of Christ the Redeemer. Fifteen miles from center city, on the uppermost peak of Corcovado Mountain (Hunchback), 2,330 feet above sea level, stands the imposing 130-foot statue of Christ the Redeemer. It is the trademark of the city and one of the largest monuments in the world. This peak can be reached anytime, between 0800-1800, by an interesting old open-air electric cogwheel railway that takes 30 minutes. Families live in small favelas along Corcovado's hillside, and the 50-passenger train makes a number of stops in its ascent. At each station shoeless children throng about, sellings bags of peanuts for 40$. At the exit, before beginning the final fascinating 227-step climb to the peak, you can fortify yourself at an ice cream stand; and midway up, there is a cafe with an outdoor dining area. Souvenir stands dot the area. Over at the base of the statue, on a clear day, you can get still another superb view of the city and Guanabara Bay. To reach the cog railway, take a cab, or any bus marked Cosme Velho will drop you at the Corcovado train station at the base of Corcovado, including busses 422, 497 and 498 from center city, and 583 from Copacabana. The fare is 15$. The round trip cog railway fare to the top and back is $2.50. The top can also be reached by automobile or taxi over a paved road — a scenic delight. By taxi, it is but a few minutes from Flamengo Beach, about fifteen minutes from Copacabana Beach. Botanical Gardens (Jardim Botanico). The Botanical Gardens, which cover 123 acres, are one of the most beautiful and complete gardens of its kind in the world. At the inviting entrance to the part are two 1,640-foot long rows of impressive royal palms, the tallest and most beautiful you will ever see. The other outstanding sights of the garden are the unbelievably large water lilies, measuring twenty feet in circumference, native to and brought from the tropical regions of Brazil; and its orchid collections counting more than 60 species. In addition, there are more than 7,000 different plants and trees native to Brazil, the vast majority of which will be completely strange to you. Open daily 0800-1700: Cr. $20 (10$).Other places of interest After Sugar Loaf, Corcovado, the Botanical Gardens, and the beaches, you might want to visit any number of other places, such as: Largo do Boticario. A small square out of the 19th century, showing what the city was like in the time of the Empire, with its townhouses and balconies decorated with painted tiles. Museum of Modern Art. This small exquisitely designed museum is on Avenida Beira Mar, at the bay front, within sight of the Pra^a Mahatma Gandhi, and not far from Santos Dumont airport. Virtually all glass, it was designed for viewing Sugar Loaf Mountain. Open Mondays through Saturdays from 1200 to 190 0, Sundays and holidays from 1400 to 1900. Admission: 50$. Free on weekends. Monument to World War II Heroes. Near the art museum, on the bay, is an impressive monument to Brazilian World War II heroes that is visible from the Pra^a Mahatma Gandhi. This awesome structure has a portico resting on two 150-foot-high pillars. Three sculptured military figures protect the monument, and an eternal flame burns at the base. Imperioa Palace in Quinta da Boa Vista. This is the former estate of Emperors Pedro I and II. It is Rio's largest park and is indeed a beauty with lakes, streams, and shady walks. Here, too, are the National Museum and Zoo; the latter is renowned for birds, fowl and animals in their natural habitat. Open 1200 to 1630 daily; Cr $5 (30$). To get there, take either bus 472 or 474 and get off at Cancela. Flamengo Park. This park on Guanabara Bay is one of the largest, most attractive anywhere. It has a mile-long beach, tropical gardens, playgrounds, athletic fields, open-air theater, Sunday band concerts and folklore shows, Museum of Modern Art, anda striking National Monument to World War II Dead where an honor guard is changed every two (even) hours. Museum of National History (near Santos Dumont Airport). This museum has many rooms, each devoted to a different period of the nation's history. Museum of Hunting and Fishing. A real treat for the sportsman. Planetarium. This is near the Jockey Club and there are weekend shows from 1500 to 2100. Admission: Cr $3 (18$). Tivoli Park. This is also near the Jockey Club and is the Brazilian version of the Danish original. Adult/children rides. Open until midnight on weekends. Silvestre. This is a mountainside residential district that may be reached by streetcar from downtown. It affords good views and hiking along hillside roads. The Tijuca National Park and Forest. This lovely state park is high above the sea and only a few miles from the center of the city. Here you will find abundant tropical vegetation, waterfalls, and some old 19th century buildings. To get there, take bus 220 from the Pra<^a Maua. Churches. The most noteworthy church in Rio is that of Our Lady of Penha, which has 365 steps. Seeing Rio from the Water Guanabara Bay merits a half-day excursion. Comfortable boats with fixed itineraries (some expensive some not too expensive) show you a small world of 84 islands and baylets within the 412 square kilometers of the bay where the Portuguese and Frenchfought for possession of the land at the end of the 17th century. You will visit old forts and the hamlets of fisherman who work in the area. To see the bay more cheaply go to the large pier called Pra<£a 15 de Novembro. Here there are ferry boats that cross Guanabara Bay to Niteroi, on the other side. The trip, which takes about twenty-five minutes, costs only a few cents. This is a marvelous boat ride, and you'll get to. mingle with the local inhabitants. For a longer bayside outing, visit Ilha de Paqueta. Because of its natural beauty, it is called the "Pearl of Guanabara." Its charming beaches trimmed with palm trees, flowers, and gardens constitute a marvelous series of poetic landscapes. It is often used by honeymooners. Horse-drawn-carriage tours around the island are available, and there are cabins for changing at the beaches. The cheapest way to make the trip ($1 round-trip) is via an aged ferry from Pra<^a 15 de Novembro that takes about an hour-and-a-half. TOURS The Brazilian Navy and the Agenda de Viagens Chanteclair, Rua Mexico 119 both offer free tours of downtown Rio that are very good. The American Express, Cook's and several local tour agencies also offer tours for personnel of visiting ships. Representatives will meet the ship upon arrival. Among the best tours were a 3-hour tour of Sugar Loaf Mountain costing $3.75, a 3-hour trip to Corcovado Mountain ($3.37) and a 3-hour tour of Tijuca Forest (10 miles outside the city) at $5.75. The Safari Tour Agency offers an all day tour (about 7 hours) that includes all the major highlights of the city and an excellent lunch for $7.75. There are a number of Rio by Night tours of restaurants, night clubs, Samba schools and macumba(voodoo) sessions for groups and those who shy from doing the town on their own. They start and end at the larger hotels. Petropolis and Teresopolis, two nearby mountain resorts 40 and 65 miles distant, are on a good road from Rio. Petropolis, once a royal family summer residence, is a 3,00 0 foot mountain resort. The display of crown jewels in the Imperial museum (closed Monday), a Cathedral with royal tombs, several villas and nearby Orgaos National Park all contribute to a fine day's outing. At Teresopolis there are superb views of seven waterfalls racing through a garden. The U.S. Embassy Recreation Association manages a lodge and seven bungalows with a capacity of 80 persons. Entertainment includes horseback riding, tennis, golf, swimming and other sports. Buses leave for Petropolis every 15 minutes from the Rodoviaria Novo Rio. The fare for the one-hour ride is $1 each way. FESTIVALS, HOLIDAYS, EVENTS Dia Da Cidade (Day of the City) - Jan. 20th. Meeting of the Serenaders - April in Niteroi. Musical presentations of traditional serenades. Rio Export Fair - May. Brazilian Fair of. Samples - July. Grande Premio (Gran Prix) Brazil - 1st Sunday of August; the horse racing event of the year at the Gavea Race Track (Jockey Club). Fashion and Housing Exhibition - 2nd and 3rd weeks of Sept. Feast of Our Lady of Penha - Throughout October. Traditional feast during which some of the faithfulclimb the many steps on their knees; particularly impressive are the Saturday pilgrimages to the suburbs* Also folklore and handcraft bazaars* Rio Circuit - Sailing races(Rio and Santos teams), last week of Oct. Student Festival of Brazilian Music - October* Students from all over the country participate with original songs. Also see page 29 of this guide.Santos (pop, 260,00), is located on the island of Sao Vicente, some 200 miles south of Rio, It is the principal port of Brazil and one of the busiest in the Western hemisphere. It is the largest coffee exporting port in the world and is the seaport for the industralized metropolitan area of Sao Paulo, fifty miles inland, and for the resources and agricultural products of the plains of Southwest Brazil. The city has a two-mile long quay, and fifteen miles of inner harbor docks and towering cranes. Good roads and railways connect the port to Sao Paulo, the seventh largest populated city in the world (7,000,000). In addition to its importance as a seaport, Santos has several miles of excellent sandy beaches faced by charming old hotels, splendid new ones, and by high-rise apartments. Santos, Sao Vicente and the nearby island of Santo Amaro, with its socially prominent resort town, Guaruja, are the playground of untold thousands of middle and upper-class Brazilians. Few outsiders come here. The city was first established in 1532 and, in its early history, grew rapidly to become an important port. But while Santos was growing in importance as a seaport, a Jesuit priest established a mission at what is now the site of the City of Sao Paulo. Because of its more favorable climate and natural resources, Sao Paulo soon outstripped Santos in growth and, in 1861, the seat of provincial government was moved from Santos to Sao Paulo. Today, except for the bustle of the busy waterfront, Santos is a peaceful town with a pleasant flavor of the past. The Portuguese comprise the largest ethnic group, followed by Spanish and Italians. There are however, small communities of Americans, French, Turks, British and Syrians, many of whom you will meet.Fleet Landing Several locations and facilities are readily available. U.S. Consulate The United States Consulate is located at Rua Padre Joao Manuel 30. TRANSPORTATION Streetcars and busses are the principal means of public transportation in Santos, and to the nearby towns of Guaruja and Seifo Vicente. The streetcars are slow and uncomfortable, but cost only about two cruzeiros (12$). Busses are better in all respects, but a bit more expensive - two to four cruzeiros (12 to 24$). To reach most of the city from the docks, take bus #8, which follows the docks and beaches to Sao Vicente. Return the same way on a #7 bus (stop off at one or more of the beaches if you wish) or complete the circle inland on #8. To go to Guaruja and beyond, take the #8 bus to the ferry; cross over (no charge), and take the bus marked Bertioga (CR $1.60-10$) to Guaruja, or the end of the line where another ferry plies to Bertioga on the mainland. Taxis are readily available and reasonable. Most are Volkswagons with red license plates. For short trips, pay only the fare shown on the meter, except after 2200, when a surcharge of up to 30% may be charged. For longer trips, the fare should be agreed upon in advance. The usual fare to Sao Paulo (fifty miles distant) approximates Cr $100 ($6.00); all day trips to and around Sao Paulo will cost about $50 U.S. money. As a reminder, since few taxi drivers speak or understand English, the destination should be written down or pointed out to them on a map. Busses run regularly between Santos and Sao Paulo, and the fifty mile trip takes about an hour and ahalf. They leave from Pra^a Maua, and at Gonzaga Beach from Pra^a Independencia. By first class bus (Zefir line) to Pra^a da Se in Sao Paulo, the fare is about CR $10 (60$) one way. Trains also connect the two cities. This ride is more spectacularly scenic, well worth the 2 V2 hour trip. Charges approximate CR $5 (30$). Rental cars are also available, with or without drivers for quite reasonable fees. HOTELS The best hotels are in the beach area; two of those recommended are Parque Balneario and Casino de Guaru jci. RESTAURANTS The best restaurants are in the large hotels. Others recommended are: Don Fabrezio in Santos and in Sao Paulo Paulesia - International food Jangadeiro - Seafood Jua Drinks, Ilha Parchat 192 - For an evening on the town. It is situated on a rocky point that provides a tremendous panoramic view of Sao Vicente, sea and islands. Its austere elegance provides the perfect setting for indoor/outdoor dining and dancing. Expensive. At Gonzaga Beach Atlantico Hi Fi - International Food De Lucia - Italian FoodDon Fabrigo - Italian Food CLUBS AND BARS The Santos Athletic Club, an Anglo-American social club, has tennis courts, a bowling green, a cricket field, and regular dances. The Santos Golf Club, located two miles west of Sao Vincente, has a nine-hole course. The Quinze Club, which is mainly Brazilian, offers social activities. All of these clubs are more inclined to officers than to enlisted personnel. Hotel Parque Balneario, Hotel Casino do Guaruja, and many of the large hotels on the south shore of Sao Vicente Island also have night club facilities. Their charges run from moderate to expensive. SHOPPING The purchase of jewelry is your best bet, followed by leather goods, articles carved from wood, and curios. THINGS TO SEE AND DO You can see Santos easily by public bus. Here are some points of interest: Morro De Santa Terezinha Hill. This hill is a beautiful place to visit. It is served by a special bus line which starts at the corner of Rua Marechal Floriano Peixoto and Praga Independencia. The Chapel of Santa Terezinha is located at its top, and a modern restaurant is next to the Chapel. Monte Serrat Hill. Monte Serrat is located in the center of the downtown district, and at its top is the Chapel of Our Lady of Monte Serrat, Patroness of Santos. From the top of the hill the entire city of Santos can be seen. The area can be reached by walking or by cable car.Aquarium. The aquarium, located at Ponta Da Praia, has an extraordinary collection of exotic fishes, and a pool with turtles and a sea lion. Fishing Museum. This museum is located at Ponta Da Praia and contains an exhibition of sea fauna, old and modern fishing tackle, and many navigational instruments. Chief attraction is a complete skeleton of a whale. It can be reached by streetcar numbers 4, 12, or 42, or by bus numbers 3 or 4. Orchid Garden. This garden, located at Pra^a Washington, Jose Menino, contains thousands of orchid plants and other varieties of flowers. It can be reached by bus #3. Boat Excursion. The Lorrinha departs daily at 0900 from Ponta da Praia (beond the Ferry by #8 bus stop) and returns at 1600. The boat has a restaurant, bar and music. The two-hour cruise connects with a bus tour of Sao Felipe, Sao Joas Fort, Joao Ramalho Historical Museum, and the beaches. TOURS A trip to Sao Paulo offers the best opportunity for sightseeing. It is Brazil's largest and fastest-growing city and one of the great industrial cities of the world. Its climate is pleasant, and this modern industrial city has much to offer the visitor. American Express representatives, together with other tourist agencies in Santos, offer good inexpensive tours of the city. Once there, you will be impressed by tall modern apartment buildings that compare favorably with those of New York City, and a walk through the downtown skyscraper area is truly exciting. You will also note that while Brazilians (Portuguese, Indian and Negro) are in the majority, there are far more foreigners here than in Rio or any other part of the country. Many of them are Americans employed by U.S. firms with offices and factories in the city.HIGHLIGHTS OF SAO PAULO: Museums. The Ipiranga Museum, at the site where Brazil's independence from Portugal was declared, offers an interesting reflection of the past* The fine Museum of Modern Art is second only to that of Rio* The Snake Pit* Of great interest to all but the most squeamish visitors is the Snake Institute Butantan where scientists are engaged in research on antibiotics* Several thousand poisonous snakes of many species, on display here, are used in the experiments* The Botanical Gardens. These gardens contain many colorful blooms you have never seen before. As in the Botanical Gardens in Rio, there are more orchids here than you thought to exist in the world. Entertainment. Sao Paulo has fine night clubs with good shows, but they are not cheap. They usually charge a minimum CR $300 ($1.50). There are also several good theatres that offer plays in Portuguese with Brazilian actors,together with imported productions. Music-lovers can likewise enjoy some excellent concerts and grand opera. Sports. The Sao Paulo Golf Club has a challenging and picturesque course, but a guest card is required. This also applies to most of the tennis clubs in the city. If you prefer to let someone else do the work, you can see exciting soccer any Sunday at the 70,000-seat Pacaembu Stadium. There is horse racing every Saturday and Sunday. Shopping. As in Rio, the purchase of jewelry is your best bet — at R. Simon, H. Stern, Sauer, Tadini and others.Restaurants. The Terraco Italia, 41st floor, Edf. Italia, between Hilton and Eldorado, is one of the best eating places in Sao Paulo. It offers lunch, tea, dinner and dancing. It is tops in food, service, decor, view, and price.RIO GRANDE The port of Rio Grande is located at the mouth of the Lagoa Dos Patos, about 180 miles southwest of Porto Alegre. The Lagoa Dos Patos and the tributaries of the Rio Guaiba, which lie about eighty miles north-west of Rio Grande, are considered the finest system of inland waterways in Brazil aside from the Amazon. Rio Grande was founded in 1737 and was at one time the only port in the district accessible to vessels of respectable draft. With improved dredging of the inland waterways, Rio Grande has since become overcrowded by Porto Alegre in relative importance. Today, Rio Grande is the fifth major port in Brazil and is well-known for its cattle and meat industries, factories, fisheries, oil refineries and mills. Although at least sixty-seven different nationalities are represented among the inhabitants, about 84% of the population is Roman Catholic. The dominant theme of the region is still Brazilian, but foreign influences have been strong enough to give the culture of Rio Grande Do Sul many characteristics quite different from that of the rest of the country. The literacy rate is very high. TRANSPORTATION Rio Grande has some good paved roads, but many roads are unpaved and used primarily by carts and horses. RESTAURANTS Caution should be exercised in patronizing small unsanitary establishments. Water should not be. consumed unless it has been pre-bottled or boiled. Good bottled waters are Lindoya (non-carbonated) and Caxambu (carbonated).The Tahiti features American music and drinks at reasonable prices. Locally made alcohols, such as gin, rum, and scotch are relatively inexpensive, but bourbon is hard to find. Good beers are Chopp (draft) and Cerveja (bottled). A good Brazilian soft drink is Guarana, as a change from Coca Cola or Pepsi. SHOPPING Rio Grande is noted for its fine leather goods. Semi-precious gems are also good buys.This inland port, with almost a million inhabitants, is the largest city in Brazil's southern region. It ranks third in Brazil in economic importance, and is the capital of the rich farming (rice growing), cattle and sheep rearing state of Rio Grande do Sul. It is also prominent in the production of Parana pine, the quarrying of granite, Italian-style wines, and efficient industry. Located at the junction of four tributaries of the Guahyba River, about thirty-five miles upstream from the northern end of the Lagoa Dos Patos, and 180 miles north of Rio Grande, it makes up for its distance from Rio de Janeiro (974 miles) and Sao Paulo (702 miles) by its nearness to Motevideo, Uruguay and Buenos Aires, Argentina. Both of these cities are easily and rapidly reachable using the daily road or air transport. The first actual settlement in this region was by European Jesuits along the Uruguay River. Between 1632 and 17 07 they organized the Indians and founded missions which became prosperous through cattle raising. A treaty in 1750 transformed these missions from Spanish to Portuguese rule. But efforts to enforce the treaty by removing the Indian colonists to Spanish territory and marking the boundary line led to resistance and a three-year war between the Spanish and Portuguese, which ended in capture of the missions by the Portuguese. The Portuguese took over the grazing lands, cattle and buildings as their own. From these new ranchers and their way of life there emerged the "Brazilian Gaucho," a new social type resulting from the mixture of Indian with Spanish and Portuguese blood. Rio Grandionese still have much of this frontier temperament. Many Germans immigrated to the region around 1824, and in 1835 a separatist revolution broke out in an attempt to form an independent republic. This rebellion, a guerilla-type operation which lasted tenyears, engendered a fierce regional pride that endures to this day. The arrival of more Germans during the ensuing years, and of Italians in 1875, introduced influences that tended to modify not only the customs of the traditional "gaucho" but also the economy itself which, from an exclusive interest in cattle raising, now turned more and more to crop growing. Today, the city is a handsome surprise to the unsuspecting -- a beautiful, cosmopolitan city (second only to Rio in that respect) with good hotels, bars, restaurants, sidewalk cafes, and lots of discotheques catering to young swingers. A city of many hills, old buildings mixed with new homes, charming pracas, a tree shaded downtown area ideal for walking and brows ing--all in all, a less hilly but still Brazilian-accented San Francisco, a lovely experience. At least sixty-seven different nationalities are represented among the inhabitants, although it is estimated that about one-quarter of the native born population is of Germanic stock, and one-sixth Italian. About 84% of the population is Roman Catholic. The dominant theme of the region is still Brazilian, but foreign influences have been strong enough to give the culture of Porto Alegre many characteristics quite different from that of the rest of the country. The literacy rate in this region is among the highest in all Brazil. Fleet Landing Fleet landing is ordinarily alongside Cais Maua (the old dock) or Cais Dos Navegantes (the new docks). U.S. Consulate There is an American Consulate and an American Community in Porto Alegre. They have always been happy to assist visiting personnel and to arrange for recreational activities.Military Presence There is an Army State Military Brigade at Porto Alegre but no naval arsenals, plants or yards. Tourist Information The Tourist Information Officer (Companhia Riograndense de Turismo) is located in rua Marques do Hervel, 200. TRANSPORTATION There is adequate streetcar and bus service to all parts of the city, but the streetcar system, because of lower fares, is usually extremely crowded. From the central bus station, Estacao Rodoviaria, in Largo Vespasiano Julio Verne (Tel: 25-3000), you can catch intercity, interstate, and international busses. Taxis are numerous and their fares reasonable. Lota^aos (automobiles that follow established routes and carry four to six passengers) are also utilized and they are a fairly cheap means of transportation to and from suburban areas. Their fares are higher than those of streetcars and busses but lower than for taxis. Cars can also be rented, but be sure to hire a driver as well. Trains leave from the Estacao Ferroviana, in rua Voluntarios da Patria 1358 (Tel: 23-1156). The airport is only about four miles from the center of the city, and there are daily flights to all parts of Brazil, as well as to Montevideo and Buenos Aires. HOTELS The better hotels have rooms with private baths, hot water, air conditioning, telephone and TV, as well as bars and restaurants. Rates range from a minimum of $2 5 for a single to a maximum of $100 for a double. Meals are ordinarily included in the price of a room.FOOD AND DRINK The city's main claim to fame is an unforgettable experience: a gargantuan churrasco dinner, Churrasco is the typical regional dish, a form of outdoor barbecue. There are dozens of these barbecue places in the city where one can sit in an open patio and watch the meat being broiled over coals. The best among them are: Plaza San Rafael Grill (Cr $700 - $3.50) Mosgueteiro, at Estadio Olimpico (the Olympic stadium) Good German food can be found at Ratskeller, r. Cristovao Colombo 1564; and Italian food at Trattoria d'Italia, r. Andrade Neves. Local German-style beers and Italian-style wines are very good and reasonably priced. ENTERTAINMENT/CLUBS/BARS In Porto Alegre you will be more conscious of youth-oriented crowds than anywhere else in Brazil, possibly because of their more affluent, European heritage. There are a multitude of discos and bars dispensing live and taped music of every description. One of the more popular of these places is Bon Ami. To see something of the regional folklore, visit the Centros de Tradi^ao Gauchos, 35 CTG, Rua Arlindo 181, and watch the dancing. This is a top gaucho show. The facilities of the British Club, the Military Club, and the Country Club are normally extended to officers. These clubs offer tennis, golf, and swimming.The Festival of Our Lady of the Navigators is held the last week of January and the first week of February. The National Beer Festival is held during the first fortnight of May. SHOPPING Porto Alegre is noted for its fine leather goods, and semi-precious gems can be bought at considerable savings. RECREATION Spectator Sports Brazilian football (soccer) can be seen on Saturdays and Sundays at the Beira-Rio football stadium. It seats 85,0 00. There is also horse racing on Saturdays and Sundays at the Taruma race course, the country's second largest track. Non-Spectator Sports Golf and horseback riding are available at the Porto Alyne Country Club. Tennis and bridge can be played at the British Club, which also occasionally holds dances. The American community ordinarily makes the arrangements necessary for use of these clubs and of other athletic facilities in the area. Because the river water is muddy, two small public pools are ordinarily used for swimming. There are, however, several river beaches worth visiting: Ipanema, Guaruja and Pedra Redonda, all in the southern zone. THINGS TO SEE The splendidly proportioned Pra^a Mai. Deodoro is a colonial gem in a hilltop setting. This district includes a beautiful Italian baroque cathedral (The Igreja Da Nossa Senhora Das Dores), several palaces(including the Governor's Palace)* the Legislative Assembly, Teatro San Pedro (city's oldest), and a modern high-rise. It is an area well worth visiting, and from here there are views of narrow streets radiating down and away to distant hills. On the outskirts of the city, there are residential areas with fine homes in colonial, English, • and Italian architecture, worth a promenade. Another point of interest is the Parque Farroupilha, with eighty acres of trees, lakes, walks, and a small zoo. TOURS There is a three hour city tour beginning at 0900 and 1500 (Cr $500 - $2.50), and a 2 hour boat tour around the Guaiba estuary beginning at 0930 and 1430 (Cr $200 - $1.00). The most popular excursion goes north into the countryside to Novo Hamburgo, Brazil's leading shoe manufacturing center, and on into a huge forest preserve surrounding the German colonized towns of Gramado and Canela. The trip includes a stop at Caracol Falls. This is an area of cottage industry, where craftsmen sit in the sun and work in basketry and wood. Further on, in the mountains, you come to the oldest and most important towns of Italian origin: Caxias do Sul and Bento Gonsalves, in Brazil's greatest wine-producing area. This ten-hour trip starts at 0800 on Wednesdays, Fridays, Saturdays and Sundays, and cost Cr $1500 ($7.50).This guide is to be periodically revised. Please give us your feedback of how it may be improved. Don't use your name. Just drop this card in the mail. Thank you. 1. Sections of this manual which proved especially useful were: 2. Sections of this manual which proved to be in error or not useful were: 3. If I were writing such a manual I would include: 4. I would make the following changes: 5. Overall, I felt this manual: 6. Type of ship or unit: Your thoughts are important. Again we appreciate your help in making this a more useful guide for Navy men and women.DCPAMTNEJVT OF TNK NAVY COMMANDING OFFICE* Ml'M AN RESOL'ftCE DEVELOPMENT CENTER NORFOLK MS I -« THew»t#r r>n ** t4^ NarMk. Virr«« Z3&0f ««FA*nwrr OF TW PUTt 114 Peaaltjr Ibr Pn»*U I'm 1300 Commanding Officer Human Resource Management Center Norfolk 5621-23 Tidewater Drive Norfolk, Virginia 23509 ATTENTION: Overseas Diplomacy Branch^^^V^arque do Pal^cio da (^nabara °fa. S. Teoddsic llha de Cotundubt Ponta do Leme OCEANO ATLANTICO Harbor Pharoux Dock Bus Station N. S. da Candelaria Church D. Pedro II Station Ferry Terminal Quinta da Boa Vista and Zoo Santos Dumont Airport Maracana Flamengo Park Yacht Club Sugar Loaf Corcovado Tijuca Forest Botanical Garden 17 Racetrack IS- Rodrigo de Freitas Lagoon