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V 4m ti> engage passages on boaril the vessrl, we eoneludeil
that it was not the divine will that we slundil yet leave the
Mauritius; we therefore endeavoured to l)e reeoneiled to stay
a little longer. The ilay was extremely wet, but by the
assistance of our kiml friend George Clark, we debarked our
luggage and eonveyed it to his house, himself and his wife
being willing to reeeive us as their boarders, and to atVord us
sueh accommodation as they eoidd : this, though limited with
regard to loilging, we greatly ]n-eferreil to returiiing to an
expensive hotel. During the rain, which poured ilown in
torrents, 1 was amused by seeing a Black, with no other
garment than the usual piece of calico worn about the loins
by the lower order of Hindoos, sheltering himself by an
umbrella, which I thought could not be recpiired to keep his
clothing dry. I was afterwards informed, that these peo]de
feel nuu'h inconvenience when exposed to the rain, from the
cold produced by the continued evaporation of the wet fn)m
the surface of the body, and that they are therefore careful
to keep themselves ilry, when they have the ojipiu'tunity.
•tth nu). 1st. AYe paid a parting visit to our felloAV-
passengers from the Swan Uiver, who sailed in the afternoon
for Kngland, on board the Shepherdess. In returning we
called on board the Abercromby, and addressed a few words
of parting exlu>rtation to the crew. They had been, of neces-
sity, n\ore cn-derly here than they were at Freenuiutle, the
police of Port Louis being very strict, and not allowing the
crews of vessels in the harbour to be unnecessarily on shore.
AA e had afterwards some religions service with a snu\ll con-
gregation in J. le Brun's chapel, and with a creole family at
our loilging. To these people (i. Clark read a portion of the
French version of the tract on Silent Waiting upon CJod,
by Thomas CoUey. The mother of the family afterwards
1838.] MAt;;u//ij«. 2.'}
rcf/jarkf.dj tjjat the vJjcwk of divine worsJiip wrt fortlj Uiercin,
wj'MriU'A with wJjat «}jc Ijad apprclicnded MorsJiip ouj^IjI to
be. — Hfruvy rain fdl htea^Jily, wiUiOut wind, in the morning;
in the afunioon v'lfjhtii wjuaJJ.H r;jtrne on; and many 'JVopif>
birdj* flew wildly about the eraj^j^y t/jp of llie Signal Moun-
tain. '/1nstant
attendant on the terrific hurrif;an<^, with which tliiw island lk
womctimes visitxjd. In the evening the wind blew in guAts
with appalling violcncf;, but Kubhidjfjd without reaf;}/ing tlie
pit(r;h t^> whi/jh it sometimes rij> njakif
sueh Fiavoc in i'ort Lc^uis, tliat the tf^wn appears as if a fire
}>ad pa'i»!^;d over it.
2.'/d. U'e visitfi^l the heatJ of the aqueduct, wljich brings
vr„.U:r hftfii the (jr>ifi(Ui itiviere, for the supply of a large part
of i^ort l>^uis. Jn the rocky wood at the hamxi of the afjuje-
dud, there are several fine fenjs ; among them is o;je which
c\imt[y TtHemhUm Acrovtkhmn frarinifoHum r of the Madagascar
Mission-press, r;alled upon us : he is now residing at i'iton,
i/i this island, having l>ecn oblig*^ tt> leave Manse<|uenc^ rjf the suppression r/f the mission by the Qxteen
of that island, who i* said tf; }>c a great spirit dnnkf^r, aud
biassti/J by other persons in authority, whose views of tlieir
awn Utrnpand inUiTtust are suppowjd to influence them in
maintaining idolatry. K. Jiaker says, that many elief in future punishments; and
wl«;ri one ajr;t» in %'iolation of right priricipk tf>ward#
another, the aggrieved party will say, *• If 1 do not puriisli
you Gr>d w^illP* thus als^j rwx>gnizing a supreme [>ower,
how much Hftcver their idea* respecting him may be b
Depa was a regular pensioner on his bounty at meal-times; in
the absence of the Missionary, he came to the Catechist's,
generally seating himself on the floor, soon after entering.
Depa was of lighter complexion than most Caffers, and his
hair was less woolly : he was a polite beggar, saying in Caffer,
" I should like to have the opportunity of thanking you to-
day." His children retained little traces of their European
descent.
Morley is a flourishing Station. Its population was at
this time about 300, but on First-days, nearly twice the
number attended the chapel. Nineteen men and seventeen
women were members of the church. The pupils in the
school were about 100. Forty-five were in attendance, exclu-
sive of little children, notwithstanding many were occupied in
watching the gardens. The schoolmaster was a native. The
1839.] CAFFRARIA. 261
little children were taught the alphabet in a CaflFer hut ; the
school for older children was kept in the chapel. Several of
the pupils were learning to write. A large proportion could
read Caffer well, and had committed three books of the New
Testament to memory. They were now engaged with the book
of Isaiah. Some of those occupied in watching the gardens,
committed from twelve to seventy-five verses to memory, in
the course of the week, and rehearsed them on First day,
when one of their parents, or some other person of the family,
took their place for a few hours in watching. Considering
the general want of application to labour among the CaflFers,
the perseverance of the children in learning to read is re-
markable. A few of the men here had learned to fell and
saw timber, and to assist in building. The Mission-house
was a neat, brick building ; in front of it a few shrubs were
inclosed within a fence. A brick house was in course of erec-
tion for the Catechist. The chapel was likewise a brick
building. Two cottages of wattle-and-dab were occupied by
the Catechist and others connected with the mission. The
Interpreter had erected for himself a wattle-and-dab cottage, of
two rooms, with a chimney and a four-paned window. The
window was given to him as an encouragement for building his
house with a chimney. A few other CafFers were building
cottages. The Caffer huts on the station were numerous ;
they were of larger dimensions than those in many other
places. Wood and grass are abundant here, rain being fre-
quent. Food is also more plentiful in summer ; but, as at
all the other stations, it is scarce in winter. The quantity
of milk yielded by cows in Africa, is small compared with
what they give in England.
9th. We travelled forty miles, and reached Buntingville,
about an hour after sunset. Philip Amm and three CafFers
from Morley accompanied us across the Umtata River, which
runs in so deep a ravine, that it took us about two hours,
from beginning to descend on one side, to reaching the top
of the ascent on the opposite side. In some parts of the
steep ascent, the winding path would not admit two horses.
The labour of this journey was well repaid by beautiful views.
Craggy rocks, picturesque woods, mountains of various
R 3
262 UMTATA RIVER. [3rd mo.
outline, and the sea, distant about twenty miles, were among
the striking objects. The grass, north of the Umtata, was,
in some places, so high as to render it needful to keep near
to our guide, lest we should lose sight of him. The wife of
a Missionary informed us, that, near a ford, higher up the
river, she tied the grass in a knot over the top of the tent of
the wagon. The whole land is now a meadow wath all the
verdure of spring, but the country without inhabitants. Alas,
for the desolations of war !
In this neighbourhood a large Brunsvigia, bearing an um-
bel of numerous, lily-like flowers, of deep pink, on long foot-
stalks, rose above the shorter grass. Some pretty plants of
the Asphodel tribe, attracted our attention as we rode along,
as did also a Gladiolus with dense spikes of flowers, of a
dingy hue, covered with minute, purple spots, and some other
plants of the Iris tribe. A fine red and yellow Tritoma was
growing by the side of a brook near which we stopped. We
had observed a rigid, yellow one, on the hills, a few days pre-
vious. A remarkable plant of the Cucumber tribe was climb-
ing among the bushes by the margin of a brook where we
halted; also a Dolichos) with clusters of large, fragrant, purple,
pea-like flowers. In a copse at this spot there was a species of
Erythrina, which became more abundant further northward ;
it formed a low, spreading tree with very large, rounded tri-
foliate leaves. — On looking into a pool among the rocks with
the intention to bathe, I was deterred by seeing a green snake
at the bottom of the w^ater. — At this place we met three
Amaponda Caff*ers, and one from the Buntingville station.
At first, they were very shy, but on being informed who we
were, they came to our fire, where we were roasting Indian
Corn and meat, with which our kind friends Philip and Mary
Amm had provided us, and of which these people par-
took. They conversed freely with a man named David, who
had come with us as an extra guide from Morley, and who was
one of the refugees from that section of the Fitcani, which was
attacked and routed by the British in 1828, to the westward
of this part of the country. They were on their way to
Morley, to bring back two cows, which had been lent by a
brother of Faku, to a poor man, to enable him to support
1839.] CAFFRARIA. 263
his family. The man had ungratefully taken off with them
to the missionary station at Morley. He was informed that
he could not remain there unless he gave them up ; he there-
fore left the place. Circumstances of this kind are said to
be far from uncommon, but they are generally treated by the
Chiefs with a creditable lenit)\
There was an observable difference between the Amaponda
CafFers and those of other tribes that we had visited, both in
manners and appearance. They did not beg. Their hair was
so managed as to form an oval chaplet, the thickness of a
finger, and about six inches in diameter, into which was stuck
a small, ivory snufF-spoon. A ring of flattened copper, half
an inch wide, encircled one wrist. They do not practice the
rite of circumcision : some of their ornaments are polished
nuts, or small, decorated calabashes. They had each a bundle
of two or three assagais. The other Caffers generally carry
about half a dozen. Continuing our journey, we passed duba,
or Turveys Bush, near sunset ; to this place the Buntingville
station was about to be removed, on account of the want of
pasturage, garden-ground, and wood, and of a liability to the
failure of water, at the present site. We now came again upon a
peopled country, and passed two kraals. Further northward,
massive rings are worn about the necks of people of rank; these
are said to become so much heated by the sun, that a servant is
often kept in attendance, with a calabash of water to cool them!
The descent to Buntingville was very steep and intricate,
but with a little help from a man from one of the kraals, we
were favoured, after toiling an hour in the dark, to reach the
Station in safety. We were cheered by a kind reception from
Thomas and Jemima Wakeford, the former of whom filled
the ofiice of Catechist.
10th. The population of Buntingville was about 500; the
people were dwelling in beehive huts, except the families of the
Missionary and Catechist. — Congregations for public worship
met in the morning and afternoon ; in both of them oppor-
tunity was afforded us to address the people, who amount-
ed to about 220. About one-third of them were dressed
in woollen jackets and leathern trousers, or in cotton or wool-
len gowns; the women had also clean, cotton handkerchiefs.
264 BUNTINGVILL.E. [3rd mo.
neatly tied round their heads. Several of these people ap-
peared to be genuine converts to Christianity : in their cir-
cumspect conduct they vied with many Christians who have
had more advantages. This may, perhaps, be generally said
of CaiFer converts, notwithstanding the measure of gospel light
they have received, may, in many instances, be very small,
and cases of halting may not unfrequently occur. — When
compared with the midnight darkness in which the Caffer,
in his native state, remote from missionary institutions, is
involved, the light in which those who have become Christians
are walking, must be regarded as the dawning of a glorious
day. Many who have been stripped of their cattle and tor-
tured, under the charge of witchcraft, and others in distress,
have fled to the missionary institutions, and have thus been
brought under the influence of religious instruction, that has
been greatly blessed to them. The national customs of these
people tend, from early life, to quench those convictions of
the Holy Spirit which are, in unconverted persons, as a
" light shining in darkness ;" thus they appear to be left in
gross darkness, generally, till their attention is awakened by
hearing of the deliverance from spiritual death and darkness
proposed in the Gospel by Him of whom it was said, " In
him was life, and the life was the light of men."
11th. We inspected the School, which had about eighty
pupils, eighteen of whom were able to read the Scriptures,
in their own tongue. In the afternoon we walked into a
wood, in which a Rhipsalis was growing as an epiphyte upon
the trees. This was the only plant of the Cactus tribe that
we had yet seen in Africa. This Station was visited by Lo-
custs a few months ago, and their young were now coming
out of the ground, to make a second desolation. These in-
sects are a great scourge in Southern Africa. They come in
vast swarms, and if the parts they visit, be "before them, like
the Garden of Eden, " they leave it, as " a waste howling
wilderness ; " and depositing their eggs in the ground, their
destructive progeny make their appearance after rain, and
continue their devastations till they acquire wings, when they
take flight to devour in some other place.
From the effect of these insects and of war, many persons.
1839.] CAFFRARIA. 265'
within the last year, had died in this part of Caffraria, from
starvation, nor had the Missionaries been able to avert this
consequence, in all the instances in which the people fled to
the Stations for relief. A scanty supply of food at length
overcame the vital powers, in several instances, and brought
many to a premature end ; many are still suffering from
want, hunger having occasioned the consumption of the com
that ought to have been reserved for seed. So great was the
famine from these causes, that it was generally spoken of as.
The Great Hunger. — Marriages are encouraged between the
young people of this place and those of Morley, without the
wife being purchased. Women when bought, are generally
regarded much in the light of slaves ; here, therefore, the
Missionaries are little subjected to the painful sight of seeing
young women who have become Christians, sold by their
parents as wives, to unconverted men ; and the Chief has
ordered that no young women shall be taken by force from
within sight of the Missionary stations, to the place of his
residence. A dreadful practice still prevails among the tribes
inhabiting this part of the country. The young women are
driven to the kraal of the Chief, and after remaining some
time with him and his counsellors, they are allowed to return
home.
Faku and N'capai are more despotic than the Chiefs to
the southward ; but the nearer you approach their country,
the more you hear of their good qualities, and of their rea-
sons for those acts, which, when reported at a distance, fill
the mind with unmitigated horror. Beyond a doubt, a large
measure of human depravit}'^ is to be traced in their charac-
ters ; but they are not without points which afford consider-
able hope, that the further introduction of the Gospel may,
under the divine blessing, produce a beneficial change both in
them and among their people ; they had at this time expressed
desires to have Missionaries at the places of their residence ;
and subsequently, the Wesleyans complied with these desires.
Both these Chiefs had promised to keep peace until it was
broken against them. Faku was reported to have said, that
he must now mind what he did, having the English before
and behind him, in Albany and at Port Natal, and enemies
266 CAFPRARiA. [3rd mo.
on each side. They are each said to have about 15,000
fighting men ; and the population of each tribe might be
reckoned at 50,000. Probably the ground of the desire
of these two Chiefs for Missionaries, was pohtical. They
saw that to have Missionaries gave them importance with
other tribes and nations, and opened communications, by
which they learned what was going on in other parts of the
world; and with them, it was a great thing, to hear the news.
But He who rules over the hearts of the children of men,
was, perhaps, even through the medium of such motives,
opening a door for the introduction of Christianity among
their people. — Among the people of Faku and N'capai, milk
was regarded as the food for children, and beer made of Caf-
fer-corn was much in use ; drunkenness was, consequently,
reported to be a common vice.
Between the country occupied by N^capai and Faku, and
Port Natal, there was an extensive tract lying waste, having
been rendered desolate by wars among the native tribes. The
country between Port Natal and the Zoolu country, was also of
this character, until occupied by the emigrant boors, except
that a few scattered tribes of natives resided about the foot of
the mountains, and some Zoolu fugitives, with a few lawless
English, had taken up their abode at the Port. Many simi-
larly desolate countries exist in South Africa, where, until
Christianity is introduced, the native Chiefs are continually
making cruel and desolating wars one upon another.
CHAPTER XVIII.
Motives for returning toward the Cape Colony. — Fall of the Umgaziana. — Trees .
— Chameleon. — Amaponda Caffers. — Snuff-boxes. — Return toMorley. — Throw-
ing away Children. — Burials. — Cruelties of "War. — Corrupt state of the Caffers.
— Restitution. — Burning of Villages. — Eating Raw Flesh. — Preaching of a
Caffer. — Caffer Melon. — Fording the Bashee River. — Return to Clarkbury. —
Caffer's Remark on Worship. — Depredations of Hyenas. — Vultures. — Prece-
dence given to the Bushmen. — Fingoes. — Customs and Superstitions. — Reli-
gious Attainments. — Return to Butterworth. — Secretary Bird. — Law respect-
ing Stolen Horses. — Inhabited Country. — Ox-riding. — " Order of the Garter."
— Poisonous Plant. — Fort "Warden. — Traders' Huts. — Horse Shoes. — Inter-
view with Gacela. — Eating Birds. — Fear of Poison. — Rain Maker's Impositions.
— Autumnal Spring. — Fruits.
3rd mo. 12th. As the Wesleyan Missionary stationed at
Buntingville, was absent at the District Meeting, at Grahams
Town, and in his absence, the Catechist could not suitably
leave the station, we did not think it best to attempt visiting
the Fitcani Chiefs, Faku and N'capai, as we should have been
without an efficient interpreter; and as there were at this
period, no Missionary Stations further northward, we felt
most comfortable to return without further delay, toward the
Cape Colony ; we therefore set out this morning for Morley.
About two miles from Buntingville, we turned aside to see
the place where the Umgaziana falls into a deep, rocky ravine,
of grand and picturesque features. There is seldom much
water in this river, except in pools; although heavy rain
had fallen lately, the quantity of running water was insigni-
ficantly small. Among the rocks, and at the bottom of the
chff, there were numerous, small trees and bushes. Among
them was a small Date Palm, Fhmnix reclinata, which has
small, edible fruit, and elegant, pinnate leaves. A species of
Fig, Ficus, having oval leaves, distantly and bluntly toothed,
268 TURVEYS BUSH. [3rd mo.
was bearing spherical fruit an inch and a half in diameter,
but it was rather insipid. We stopped Hkewise a short
time at Turveys Bush, where also some species of Fig were
growing. Two of them formed lofty trees. One of these,
which had pointed, oval foliage, and long footstalks, with
small, oval fruit, was intergrown with a strong vine and ano-
ther tree, so as to form a singular arch, about forty feet high,
the columns of which were trunks that formed a sort of net-
work. The Fig-trees had the appearance of having origin-
ally been parasitical, but the foster-trees had died and de-
cayed away out of the midst of them. Among the bushes at
this place, there was a small species of Chameleon. Lizards
of this tribe are chiefly remarkable for the form of their feet,
the length of their tongues, the change of their colours, and
the slowness of their motions. Two of their toes are placed
backward, so as to enable them to keep firm hold of the
branches among which they climb. The length of their
tongues, which are slimy, enables them to capture insects, by
darting them upon their prey. The change of their colour
may effect their concealment, or produce alarm in their ene-
mies ; it varies from a dull brownish hue, to a lighter shade,
and is principally effected by the inflation of the animal.
Near Turveys Bush, we met a few more of the natives of
this part of the country. One of them was pointed out to us
as a good specimen of an Amaponda CafFer. A portion of
his hair was sewed round a rush, so as to form an oval chap-
let ; beneath this, it was thick, and so cut as to present the
appearance of a forage cap. Each of the others had three
smaller series of ovals forming the chaplet ; they had little
other hair upon their heads. All the CafFer tribes are much
infested with vermin, on account of which they occasionally
shave off their hair ; this practice is also common among
some of them, as a token of mourning, on the decease of a
relative or of a chief. — The people with a triple chaplet be-
longed to a small tribe named Tziliangwe, under a petty
Chief, subject to Faku. Last year they made an attack on
the cattle of the Morley station, on a First-day, under an im-
pression that "the people of the school would not defend their
cattle upon the Sabbath." The Morley people expostulated
1839.] CAFFRARIA. 269
with them, but received defiance and taunts in return,
until they fired upon the marauders, and killed two of them ;
three others were also destroyed by their assagais. The as-
sailants then fled. These people reside near the Bunting-
ville station, and say they belong to it; but they do not
attend the religious instruction there, and are under a ban,
because of this outrage. Like other Amapondas, they wear
bands of platted grass about their loins, wrists, and arms, and
take snuff, but do not smoke. Some of them have also cop-
per rings about their necks, and wear numerous strings of
small beads, of British manufacture. They make their snufF
of the leaves of tobacco, mixed with the ashes of a species of
Aloe, and take it out of bone spoons. Some of their snuff-
boxes are formed of the shell of a nut, an inch long, and are
suspended by short strings of beads, from the neck; the
opening into them is at the lower end, and is secured by a
plug. Others are of horn, and a larger kind is skilfully
formed into an ornamented, globular bottle, from a portion of
the intestines of a cow. A snuff-box formed of a piece of
wood, an inch and a half long, and as thick as a man^s thumb,
is often worn in the cartilage of the ear, which is always per-
forated with a hole, that is stretched to a large size by means
of a plug of wood or bone.
We reached the Umtata about four o'clock, and there met
our kind friend Philip Amm, with men and horses from Mor-
ley, to assist us in crossing the river, and conveying us to the
Station, at which we were favoured to arrive in safety, and
with out little fatigue, before sunset. — Here our sympathy
was afresh excited, by seeing two young children suffering
from dysentery, a common and fatal disease in this part of
the world. They were orphans, whose parents died in the
famine of last year, in which several of the people " threw
away their children ;" some of these were picked up by the
missionaries. The throwing away of children in times of
famine, or on other occasions when they are felt to be a bur-
den, is not uncommon among the Caffers, who are also very
negligent of their sick, and who, except a few persons that
have come under the power of the Gospel, will not touch a
dying or dead person.
270 MORLEY. [3rd mo.
13th. Our horses requiring rest, and the weather being
unfavourable, we remained at Morley. The httle boy noticed
yesterday, as suffering from dysentery, died in the night, and
was buried to-day, in a coffin, made by a young Hottentot,
who was apprentice to Philip Amm. — The common mode of
burial adopted here, has been to wrap the corpse in whatever
karross, or other garment, the party happened to die in, and
to enclose this in a mat, and inter it in a grave. But it
is difficult on these occasions to obtain any assistance from
the Caffers, on account of their superstitious horrour of touch-
ing the dead.
The Amaponda Caffers not only do not beg, but they are
remarkably honest. In these respects they greatly excel the
Amakosa, but like them, they are given to predatory warfare.
The late attack of N'capai and Faku upon the Tambookies,
was made under the pretext of retaliation for a former incur-
sion of the Tambookies. When, in some cases, the Fitkani
barbarously cut off the hands of the women, to enable them
the more readily to strip the brass rings off their arms, they
told the Tambookies to remember, that it was they who first
set the example in this practice. The Caffer Chiefs seldom
make war upon one another without some pretext of affront ;
but like many nations more civilized, they appear very ready
to make the most of any little circumstance, as a justification
for war. Among the Caffers this is especially the case where
their neighbours are rich in cattle. Notwithstanding the
brutal acts that are often committed by the Caffers, under
the excitement of war, and their many barbarous customs,
they are far from being the inhuman savages that some have
represented them to be. They are exactly what it would be
reasonable to expect unregenerate, human beings to be, under
their circumstances. The same corrupt propensities and evil
dispositions which they exhibit, are to be traced in civilized
society, but producing diversified fruits from the difference of
circumstances. There is also a similar diversity of talent and
disposition among the Caffers, to that which is to be found in
other branches of the human family. Divine grace alone can
subdue the evil, and rightly direct the talents, and thus bring
about a state of good morals, peace, and usefulness ; for sound
1839.] CAFFRARIA. 2'Jt
Christian principle, which is the work of Divine grace, and is
inseparably united to true repentance and faith in Christ, is
the only efficient remedy for the maladies of human society.
14th. Rain detained us at Morley. In the course of the
day, some men from a neighbouring tribe, came to complain,
that some of Faku's people had made an incursion upon their
cattle, and that thus, Faku had broken the peace, which he
had said he would maintain till some one should rise up
against him. Philip Amm told these men, that he suspected
Faku knew nothing of the matter, and that the people who
had done this, were some of Faku's dogs, — a term used for
marauders, &c. for whose conduct the Chief could not be
considered responsible : he advised them to trace up the
spoor or foot-prints, of the cattle, to the kraal of the marau-
ders, and then to take the case to the Catechist, at Bunting-
ville, and let him make a charge against them, as thieves, before
Faku, who would, most hkely, order them to make a tenfold
restitution, according to common practice in such cases. The
people went away satisfied to take such a proceeding. — The
Fitcani have accustomed themselves to eat raw flesh, in order
that they may advance in their predatory excursions, without
being discovered by the smoke of fires, which, if they cooked
their meat, must necessarily be kindled. On these occasions
they spread themselves among the villages in the dead of the
night, and set them simultaneously on fire, and the first blaze
serves as a beacon for the prosecution of the work of destruc-
tion. As from the lowness of the doors, the inhabitants rush
out of their burning huts in a stooping posture, they are met
in this helpless situation by the enemy, and stabbed, and thus
whole territories are depopulated. The people about Morley
cook their meat, except some portions of the intestines of
animals, which they eat raw. The practice of eating flesh
uncooked is not however confined to the coloured tribes of
Africa. In the Cape Colony, the fleshy parts of bullocks and
antelopes are commonly eaten under the name of Beltong,
when only dried in the sun ; and custom soon renders animal
food, in this state, very palatable.
15th. The rain ceased this morning, and we took leave of
the Morley station. The Missionaries in this part of Caffraria
272 CLARKBURY, [3rd mo.
rarely see Christian visitors, we were therefore constantly
pressed to make longer visits. Philip Amm, and a few other
persons belonging to the Station, accompanied us some miles.
When we first ofF-saddled, one named James, an interpreter,
took the opportunity of preaching Jesus Christ to a strange
CafFer, who came and sat by him on the ground, and listened
with fixed attention. James was a spiritually-minded man,
who seemed deeply to feel the value of the Gospel that he
had received : he seldom let an opportunity slip of spreading
the glad tidings of salvation among his benighted countrymen.
When we resumed our journey, those persons who had ac-
companied us from Morley returned, excepting one man, who
continued with us for the purpose of helping us through the
Bashee River. — We dined near some deserted Caflfer huts,
where the Blue Water-lily was growing in the pools of a
streamlet. We obtained a Caffer-melon from one of the for-
saken gardens ; when roasted, it was very palatable : this fruit
is very useful ; it comes early to maturity, and supplies food
before the pumpkins or corn are ready. — The sun had set some
time before we reached the Bashee, which was swollen by the
late rains. The bed of this river is a sloping, slippery rock.
Our guide was a little afraid on first attempting the ford ; but
at length, he made his way safely through : I followed next,
but both my horses fell sidewise, yet so as only to wet me up
to one shoulder, and they recovered without my dismounting.
The rest of the company passed without accident, and we were
favoured to reach Clarkbury in safety. In conversation with
Joseph Warner, he informed us, that, after we were gone,
some of the people made remarks upon the difference of our
manner of conducting public worship, from that to which
they had been accustomed, and one of them observed, that
he perceived God might be worshipped in different ways, but
the word, or doctrine, was the same.
16th. In the night there was much noise among the peo-
ple, in consequence of a Spotted Hyena having got into the
house in which the kids were kept, the door of which it
had pushed away. The people discovered the thief, and
chased him up and down the place; but he made his
escape with a kid in his mouth, and three others were
1839.] CAFFRARIA. 273
missing this morning. A Hyena was taken here in a trap,
a few weeks ago^ which had in its stomach, part of a milk-
sack that it had stolen a few nights before. When some of
the Stations in this part of CafFraria were first settled, many-
cases occurred of Hyenas entering the huts of the natives,
and carrying off children from under the karrosses of their
mothers as they slept.
In the afternoon we rode with J. Warner up the moun-
tain, to see the fine country beyond it, where many of the
people had made gardens. On its further side there is a
loftier range of mountains, among which there are many
fine valleys. This would, probably, have been the better
place for the missionary station, but it was not sufficiently
known till after the other was formed. In conversation with
Joseph Warner on the habits of the Tambookies, who till
lately inhabited this part of Caffraria, he told us, that certain
chiefs among them took precedence of others in hunting ; so
that, in case of large game being killed, the pre-eminent chief
would take the parts deemed most precious ; but should a
Bushman be in the company, his right to take precedence of
all the chiefs would not be disputed. In this way the Bush-
men are clearly recognized as the original inhabitants of the
land, as far as the Umzimvooboo, beyond Morley ; there
are still several Bushman families within about thirty miles
of Clarkbury, but they keep at an unapproachable distance
from the Missionaries. The Caffers of this neighbourhood
say of themselves, that they came from the northward.
Probably they inhabited the country now vacant, about the
second point of Natal, and the Fingoes that nearer to Port
Natal, from which they were driven by the Zoolus. Being
deprived of the means of subsistence, the Fingoes took
refuge among the Caffers, with whom they remained in a
sort of vassalage, till the late war between the Caffers and
the English. At that time the Fingoes living near the
frontier joined the English, carrying with them into the
Colony much Caffer cattle, in addition to what might be
considered their own. In the Colony, many of them have
become much impoverished by their cattle dying. — Persons
charged with preventing rain, are drowned in this part of the
274 CLARKBURY. [3rd mo.
country; they are thrown into the water, with their heads and
feet tied together. Epileptics are cast over a precipice, or
tied to a tree to be devoured by hyenas, unless they can
escape to a Missionary Institution. Dying people are carried
out to perish, or to be devoured by Hyenas ; but if they
happen to die in a hut, the hut is burned. Persons of rank
are buried ; all their clothes are buried with them, or other-
wise destroyed. Two persons labouring under a shameful
disease, introduced into some parts of CaiSraria by British
soldiers, once came to Clarkbury ; but the people have such
a dread of contagion, that no one would come near them,
even to speak to them, till satisfied that they were restored
to sound health.
In a morning walk, on the side of a hill, rising immediately
behind the mission premises, I noticed some White Vultures,
and some White Necked Crows picking up any pieces of
ofFal they could find. The White Vulture, Neophron (sgyp-
iiacus, called by the Cape Colonists, Witte Kraai, is a sacred
bird of the Egyptians. It is very common in South Africa as
well as in Egypt. In South Africa, three other Vultures are
also met with, VuUurfulvus, V. auricularis, and V. occipitalis :
they are termed Aas Vogels, Flesh or Carrion Birds, and are
sometimes seen soaring in the air, in great numbers, or col-
lected upon dead animals. Probably the word Eagles might
properly have been rendered Vultures in the passage of Scrip-
ture, " Wheresoever the carcase is, there will the Eagles be
gathered together." — The people here, as well as in other parts
of CafFraria, still shew a disposition to trust in charms, for
the cure of diseases, and the prevention of evils. One com-
mon charm with them is, to cut oif the first joint of the little
finger.
I7tli. The seasons of public worship took place in usual
course, and we had the opportunity in them of expressing the
exercise of our minds on behalf of the people. A continual
routine of vocal services tends, among Caffers, as well as among
Europeans, to draw the mind from self-examination and
deep exercise before the Lord; it tends also to lead the
people to lean unduly upon their teachers. Perhaps to such
causes is to be attributed in some measure the smallness
1839.] , CAFFRARIA. 279
of the number who make much advance in a religious Ufe.
There are at Clarkbury two Native Exhorters, and two other
natives who occasionally labour in the Gospel ; there is like-
wise a native woman, a Class-leader, who is remarkable for
deep piety, and experience in spiritual things. But, notwith-
standing that the number who are awakened, and attain to
a state of peace in believing, is considerable, comparatively
few attain to much growth in grace.
18th. We rode to Butterworth, where we again received
a kind welcome. In the course of our journey, we saw a few
CafFers looking for corn among the deserted gardens; we
noticed some wild-fowl, including two Secretary-birds, a flock
of Wild-turkeys, and some Quails : the last are very abun-
dant. The Secretary Bird, Gypogeranus serpentarius^ is 3 feet
in length : it is allied both to the Eagle and the Vulture, but
is strikingly different from both, in many respects, especially
in having very long legs. Its general colour is bluish grey,
with a shade of reddish brown on the wings ; the throat and
breast are nearly white, the under surface of the body, a mix-
ture of black, red and white ; the legs bright black. It has
a crest on the back of the head, some of the feathers of which
have been thought to resemble pens stuck behind the ear ;
hence its name of Secretary. These birds are seen singly or
in pairs, in the interior of South Africa, searching for snakes
or other reptiles, which constitute their favourite food ; they
also eat the flesh of small animals and carrion. The Wild
Turkey of South Africa is said to be a species of Ihis. The
Quails are of various species of Hemipodius.
19th. This day was spent at Butterworth, as it was ne-
cessary to give our horses the day to rest and feed. The late
rain had restored the Caffer-corn which was almost destroyed
by drought ; it was of a deep brown colour when we were
here before, now it was bright green, and was shooting into
ear. — Stolen horses are sometimes brought from the Colony
as far as this place. Several were lately given up to the
Diplomatic Agent, W. Fynn, to be returned. In case a
horse lent by a Caffer be not returned, on account of a
declaration being made of the death of the horse, the Caffer
law requires that one of its feet should be produced by the
s 2
276 FORT WARDEN. [3rd mo.
party in whose possession it died, as an evidence of the fact.
The pleadings in their courts of law are conducted by their
counsellors, who are not at all behind those of other coun-
tries in making the best of their cause.
20th. We left Butterworth, and after riding fifteen miles,
came again into an inhabited country. Low as the CafFers
are in morals, and much as they are involved in darkness, it
was cheering again to see their villages and their herds, among
the grassy hills. At the first large kraal we passed, there
was a dance, at which many persons were assembled, among
whom we could discern two boys painted white. Many peo-
ple were on their way thither : some of them were riding on
oxen, which they use in place of saddle-horses, guiding them
with a bridle, fastened to a stick, passed through the cartilage
of the nose. In each group, which was mostly of three, one
young man had a garter of small, red beads below one knee.
What this fancy was for, I did not ascertain ; but, perhaps,
there might be as much sense in it as there is in the badge
of ancient barbarism, kept up in our own country, in '' The
Order of the Garter." — The wagon-ford over the Great Kei
proved much better than the one we took on the 2nd inst.
The river was easily crossed ; though the descent to it, and
the ascent from it, were tedious, they were not rocky. Among
the grass, on the south side, there was abundance of the spe-
cies of Morcea, known in the country by the name of Tulip
or Tulpe, which is very destructive to cattle, especially if
they be turned in a hungry state to browse, on places where
it abounds. The Kei runs in a deep mountain-ravine, the
sides of which are bushy, in many places. Near the river,
and in various little copses, Tecoma capensis was clothed with
a profusion of brilliant, red blossoms. Many other shrubs
had become gay with flowers since the rain. We halted for
the night at Fort Warden, an old mihtary post ; within its
ruined, sod battlements, two traders were stationed by a
merchant in Grahams Town, both of whom showed us
hospitality. We slept on the floor of one of their huts,
and our two attendants on that of the other. These huts
were rude, barn-like buildings, each having in one corner
of its single room, a place like a tan-pit, ii;i which hides.
1839.] CAFFRARIA. 277
purchased from the CafFers, were kept in pickle. Heaps of
horns and of gum occupied most of the remainder of the
room. These articles, and Caffer and Indian Corn, are pur-
chased with beads, buttons, tobacco, a kind of coarse woollen
cloth used for karrosses, red clay, and a few other articles.
The CaiFers, like many other people low in the scale of civili-
zation, are improvident. They sell the Indian and CalFer
Corn at this season, which they will need for their own sub-
sistence in the course of a few months. They will then have
to purchase it back with cattle, at a much higher rate, as
the gum-season will be over. According to usual custom, we
committed our horses to the charge of the head-man of the
adjacent kraal, who expressed much gratification on being
presented with an old shoe from the foot of one of my horses.
When about to enter upon our CafFerland journey we had
our horses shod, fearing they might otherwise become lame
from the wearing away of their hoofs ; but from the nature
of the country and the state of the roads, which were mere
tracks, the precaution was unnecessary ; we were glad when
the shoes were worn out; except on hard or sharp road,
the horses went much better, and more safely, without these
fetters to their feet.
21st. Last evening was extremely cold, and to-day the
thermometer was only 44°. A few days ago it was 92°. We
set out early, and dined on the bank of the Kabousi, near the
ruins of Fort Wellington, and called at Gacela's Kraal, on
the way to Bethel. Gacela and about twenty of his people
were seated under the shelter of the cattle-kraal, around a
fire, on which there was a small iron pot, with meat cooking
in it. They were employed in eating Sweet-reed, which they
peeled with their teeth, and chewed to extract the saccharine
juice. A Blue Crane, with its wings tied, was lying near
Gacela and his people ; probably it might be intended for
food for the boys ; for according to the custom of the CafFers,
a circumcised man eats no birds ; they do not, however, now
adhere rigidly to this custom when partaking with Europeans.
The CafFers, especially the Chiefs, have a great fear of being
poisoned ; the Chiefs will therefore only eat and drink of
such things as they see other people partake of. Some of
s3
278 CAFFRARiA. [3rd mo.
the Missionaries have detected the presence of poisonous
plants in milk which they had purchased.
We invited Gacela to join us at Bethel, whither he followed
us in the evening, attended by one of his sons. Through the
medium of J. L. Doehne, we had some interesting conversa-
tion with him. Gacela was an intelligent man, and much dis-
posed to promote the improvement of his people. He alluded
to the present of agricultural implements, sent by Friends of
Birmingham to Mocomo, and gave us a broad hint, that such
a present would be very acceptable to himself. — Before the
late rain, Katzee, Tyalie's Rainmaker, mentioned on the 10th
ult. succeeded in obtaining a meeting between Tyahe and
Sutu, to dehberate upon sending the Scotch Missionaries out
of the country, because he said they prevented the rain, by
making a wind that blew away the clouds ! They agreed to
consult Mocomo before determining on the measure. But
before Mocomo's answer could be received, they were deluged
with rain ; and consequently, the evil intentions of this de-
ceiver were frustrated. He had the audacity then to go to
the people on the Kei, and to tell them, that they must pay
him for the rain that had fallen, for it was his ! and he re-
ceived from them about twenty head of cattle !
22nd. We returned to King Williams Town, where we
were again kindly welcomed. The late rains had produced
an autumnal spring. Apple, Pear, and Plum-trees were a
second time in blossom, and the grass was springing in all
quarters. Much loss was sustained by cattle over-eating
themselves, or eating young, poisonous plants. Among the
shrubs now in blossom was one with flowers like those of the
Snowdrop-tree, Hallesia tetraptera, but allied to Gardinea.
Some species of Gardinea found in this neighbourhood, have
large fruit, which is pleasant, when decayed like the Medlar.
The fruit of a small, fragrant Lycium, which forms a low,
thick bush, and has small, red berries, is also said to be eat-
able and agreeably acid.
CHAPTER XIX.
Mount Coke. — School. — Preservation of Clarkbury and Buntingville. — Horrible
Custom. — Evils resulting from the removal of Missionaries. — Discredit and
Exposure of Impostures. — Rewards. — "Wesleyville. — Whitewashed Gaffers. — •
— Gonoquabi. — Cephelandra. — Plumbago capensis. — Beeka. — D'Urban.^
Fort Peddie. — Fingoes. — Ox-racing. — Intemperance. — Murder by CafFers. —
Newton Dale. — Gaffer Language. — Grinum aquaticum. — Fish River Bush.—
Wild Beasts. — Hippopotamus.
3rd mo. 23rd. After obtaining information on the state of
the rivers, between us and the Colony, which had often, of
late, been impassable for several days together, we set out for
the Wesleyan station of Mount Coke, distant about ten miles,
leaving Habul Matross, to proceed to the Kat River, with
two of our horses and some luggage. — Mount Coke is on
elevated ground, and is visible from King Williams Town : it
is situated on a branch of the Buffalo River. The road to it
lies over hilly, grassy, country, thickly inhabited, especially
in the valleys, in which the Caffers were now harvesting their
corn. The grass was beautifully enamelled with flowers ;
among them were white, lilac, and crimson species of Oxalis,
and a yellow Mesembryanthemum. One of our horses became
violently ill from eating young grass ; he laid down several
times and rolled through severity of pain. By keeping him
at a brisk pace when upon his feet, he recovered. On arriv-
ing at Mount Coke, we were kindly welcomed by Richard
and Ann Tainton, the former of whom was an Artisan-cate-
chist. Mount Coke, like most other places in this country,
bore marks of the devastations of war. The old mission-
house, which was of stone, was in ruins, and there were but
few inhabitants left upon the place. Some of these were
living in huts of wattle-and-dab, of which material the
280 MOUNT COKE. [3rd mo.
unfinished houses of the Missionary and Catechist, and a rude
building, without doors or windows, used as a chapel, were
also constructed. — Thirteen young boys, the sons of Chiefs,
were placed here, to be educated ; it was intended also to
receive the sons of Counsellors, in the hope of inculcating
Christian principles, and destroying the national superstitions
and immoralities among the most influential portion of the
community.
24th. The public congregations were unusually small.
The absence of many of the people was supposed to be
in consequence of a dance, in the vicinity; few of them
had come decidedly under the influence of the Gospel.
At this station, there were only one man and eight women
members of the Wesleyan church. The whole of the com-
pany that assembled to-day might amount to fifty. The
meetings were left to us, to be held according to the manner
of Friends. Richard Tainton interpreted into such Cafi*er as
the people on the station could understand, and a CafFer
rehearsed in such as would be intelligible to strangers. — The
only Stations belonging to the Wesleyans that were not de-
stroyed by the CaiFers in the late war, were Clarkbury and
Buntingville. The former was preserved by a Chief, who put
some persons into the houses to take care of them ; and
Richard and Ann Tainton remained at the latter, notwith-
standing the remonstrances of their friends. Faku, the Ama-
ponda Chief, who was considered an ally of the English, was
much disturbed when their removal was talked of; and they,
not feeling that they could leave with peace to their own
minds, expressed a willingness to stay, on which he forbad
their going. The communication with the Colony was cut
off for eighteen months, but they felt well satisfied in having
acted on their own impressions of duty, in having trusted in
God for protection, and in thus remaining at Buntingville,
instead of fleeing towards the Colony for the help of man.
Several of the natives who had come under some measure of
religious impression, left the place with the Missionary, and
afterwards fell into the temptation, of going out in skirmish-
ing parties against the hostile Caffers, in the hope of mak-
ing reprisals of cattle ; many of these lost their lives in these
1839.] CAFFRARIA. 281
affrays. Had the views of Missionaries, generally, been clear,
on the anti-christianity of war, probably many of them might
have acted differently from what they did ; with but few ex-
ceptions, they are yet much in the dark in regard to this
important branch of Christian doctrine.
While resident at Buntingville, Richard and Ann Tainton
witnessed many remarkable interpositions of the Most High,
for the honour of his own great name, in confounding the
rainmakers, and in giving rain when the people joined the
Missionaries in praying for it, as well as in breaking the
power of those Chiefs who set themselves against Mission-
ary instruction. Richard Tainton gained great place with
Faku, and prevailed with him to spare the women and chil-
dren in his wars. In some instances he also succeeded in
preventing wars, and in reconciling matters, when the Chief
was offended by the hasty and imprudent acts of other persons.
On a certain occasion, when Faku designed to comply with
the diabolical custom of killing a near relative, in order to
wash himself with a decoction of the viscera, out of the skull
of the victim, with a view of rendering himself invulnerable,
Richard Tainton inquired of the Chief, how his father, his
grandfather, and his great-grandfather died, and he was suc-
cessively informed, that they were killed ; hence, he argued
on the absurdity of supposing that such washings rendered
men invulnerable, since all these were so washed, and yet
perished from wounds. He then declared the practice to be
abominable in the sight of God, who, he suggested, might
possibly spare Faku to die a natural death, if he abstained
from this great sin ; the Chief, consequently, rehnquished his
design.
R. and A. Tainton took great pains, in endeavouring to
furnish employment to the Caffers at BuntingviUe, of such a
nature as should bring them a profitable return ; and they
succeeded in some measure, by getting them to grow Cayenne-
pepper, and to prepare a sort of paste from it, that is used
as a condiment at sea and in India. But at length, R. and
A. Tainton were removed to another Station, and this em-
ployment of the Caffers was given up. When we were at
Buntingville, we observed some of the Pepper-bushes, and
282 MOUNT COKE. [3rd mo.
were informed, that some persons who had been there for-
merly, had attempted the growth of the article, but little
seemed then to be known on the subject. From the appear-
ance of things upon the spot, I think there is ground to con-
clude, that the mission there received a blow by the removal
of this couple from it, from which it had never recovered.
The evils attendant on the frequent removals among the
Wesleyans in this country are great, and they are not the only
community in South Africa whose work has been impeded by
injudicious removals. When Missionaries and other officers
have just begun to be familiar with the language of an uncivil-
ized people, and have gained a little of their confidence,
when a door of usefulness has been opened before them, and
plans of improvement have been projected, and entered upon,
they have been removed to another field ; the benefit that had
accrued has thus been crushed, and the energies which
were expanding with the opening prospect of success, have
been damped. The same spirit of removal has also some-
times taken persons of little judgment, from places where
comparatively little was required, and where their other tal-
ents rendered them useful, and has carried them to situations
where the greatest discretion was requisite, and where the
success of the whole attempt, was in danger of being over-
thrown by their want of discretion. This and many other
evils arise from man undertaking, according to his natural
understanding, to direct in those things which ought to be
managed, and which can only be rightly managed, in the
counsel of God; and this counsel must be waited for, in
order that the understanding may be enlightened thereby.
The credit of the Smelling-doctors and others of a class
who pretend to detect witchcraft, or to avert it, by practising
imposicions upon the people, is now beginning to give way.
These impositions have led to the greatest cruelties, and have
held CafFraria in bondage, during that night of heathen dark-
ness which has long rested upon it, but which, through divine
mercy, is now passing away, under the advancing light of
the Gospel.
A short time ago, on a person being ill at one of the
kraals, in the neighbourhood of Mount Coke, one of the
1839.] CAFFRARIA. 283
Smelling Doctors was sent for, to detect the witchcraft, sup-
posed to occasion the sickness. On arriving at the kraal,
the doctor delayed proving who was the evil-doer till morn-
ing, and a hut was meanwhile appointed for his accommo-
dation. A young man who had heard the Missionaries de-
nounce the Witch-doctors as impostors, determined to watch
the movements of this man. On the morrow, the doctor
laid the crime to the charge of an individual, who denied
having bewitched the sick party. The doctor said, it was in
vain for him to deny his guilt, for he would smell out the
stuff by which he had bewitched his victim ; he therefore went
to the man's calf-kraal, and searched with due form for the
mysterious article. At length he scratched up the ground in
a certain place, and disinterred a small piece of skin con-
taining a few hairs. This he declared to be the bewitching
material, and it was considered incontrovertible evidence by
the CafFers, who were about to proceed at once to put the
man charged with the crime, to torture, and to seize his cat-
tle, in which the Smelling Doctor would have claimed a large
share. At this juncture, the young man before alluded to,
stood forth, and desired to be heard. His request was granted,
and he stated the manner in which his suspicions had been
awakened, in regard to the practices of the Smelling-Doctors;
he said also, that in consequence, he had watched from within
the door of his hut ; that in the stillness of night, he had
seen the Smelling-Doctor go to the calf-kraal, and had heard
some disturbance among the calves. He therefore suggested
the possibility of the doctor having himself hid the materials
he had found, and proposed, that the tails of the calves
should be examined, to see if one could not be found, wanting
such a tuft of hair as that contained in the piece of skin
which the doctor had dug up; and that search should be
made in the hut that he had occupied, for a skin wanting
such a piece as that the hairs were wrapped in, as it bore
marks of having been torn from some larger piece. To these
proposals, the people immediately consented. A calf was
found in the kraal that had evidently been robbed of the
very tuft of hair, and a skin in the hut, from which the iden-
tical piece had been torn. The victim of the Smelling
284 MOUNT COKE. [3rd mo.
Doctor was immediately declared innocent, and set free ; and
the doctor being denounced as an impostor, was glad to escape
with his hfe from the vengeance of the people.
On another occasion, a man was taken ill with a violent
pain in his side, and a Fingo doctress was sent for, to charm
him. As this woman was quite naked, except having a rope
around her waist, Richard Tainton declined going into the
hut where she was, but requested his wife to go. The doc-
tress applied her mouth to the young man's side, and sucked,
and then spit out a few grains of Indian-corn ; these, she
said, she had sucked out, and that they were what occasioned
the sickness. Ann Tainton denied that they could have been
sucked out, and said the woman must previously have had
them in her mouth. This the doctress denied, and desired
that her mouth might be examined. Ann Tainton examined
her mouth, and satisfied herself that no Indian-corn was con-
cealed in it. The doctress again sucked the man^s side, and
again spit out some Indian-corn. The people looked at Ann
Tainton with triumph ; but though she had not yet discovered
how the imposition was practised, she had no doubt but it
was an imposition, and therefore she maintained that it was
nothing else. She appealed to the young man to know if
he was relieved from the pain, and he declared that he was
not. She therefore still denounced the impostor, but not
without some uneasiness, lest her wickedness should not be
made to appear. The doctress again applied her mouth to
the man's side, and again spit out Indian-corn. Again Ann
Tainton declared her conviction that it was imposture, and
the young man declared he was no better. The doctress now
grew angry, and as each successive time this round of cir-
cumstances occurred, her wrath increased, Ann Tainton began
to hope that the mystery was advancing toward a disclosure,
though she knew not in what shape to expect it. In the
end, the doctress spit out a piece of a tobacco-leaf, rolled up,
which explained the whole matter. She had swallowed the
tobacco-leaf to produce nausea, and had afterwards swallowed
the Indian-corn ; by the help of the rope round her waist,
she had been able to keep such a command over her stomach,
as only to bring up a few grains of the Indian-corn at a
1839.] CAFFRARIA. !285
time. The young man, to the end of the proceeding, declared
that he was no better. But though the iniquity of the doc-
tress was exposed and denounced, she persuaded the women
who attended her, to carry off the young man to another
kraal, where they might not be interfered with by Christians.
This, however, could not prevent the report of her discom-
fiture spreading in the neighbourhood, to the diminution of
the faith of the people in such impostors.
The school at Mount Coke was now very small, in con-
sequence of the harvest, and from the children not having had
any rewards for a long time. Though rewards may be small,
they are a motive to induce Caffer-children to attend school,
and to strive to learn. As in many instances, neither the
children nor their parents have much idea of the benefits of
education, the attendance flags when the rewards are not dis-
pensed. Richard Tainton thought that rewards were the most
usefully given on the attainment of specific points of progress
in learning : he was also of the mind, that large schools might
be had at the Missionary Stations, if persons were provided
specifically to teach them, and to direct the cultivation of
land, &c. for the support of the children, who would require
also a little help in clothing. Probably this might prove the
most effectual means of civilizing the inhabitants, and of pro-
moting the reception of the Gospel. More attention to schools
was wanting at this time at the Wesleyan Stations, as well as
at some others, and to means by which the people might ac-
quire sufl&cient money to procure necessary clothing, as well as
to the improvement of their general condition. Without at-
tention to these points, it is not likely that the ground gained
among the Caffers will be retained. In some places the
people obtained clothing, by their little earnings, in assisting
to build the mission-premises; but the clothes were now
nearly worn out, and the people were reverting to the karross;
and with a reversion to their ancient costume, there was an
evident danger of reversion to ancient practices.
25th. We rode to Wesleyville, another Missionary-sta-
tion, about fifteen miles distant. The road lay over grassy
hills, some of which were rather stony, and across the Ka-
lumna, an insignificant brook, excepting in rainy weather, but
286 WESLEYViLLE. [3rd mo.
running in a deep ravine. — ^We passed a considerable number of
CafFer kraals. At one of these, in a hut, at a distance from
the rest, there were about a dozen young men who had lately-
been circumcised, and who were whitewashed, according to
their custom ; they continue in this state during the period
of consequent separation, which lasts till the corn is harvested.
Some of them were dressed in kilts and caps, made of the
leaves of the Little Date Palm, and were dancing with indecent
gesticulations; others were naked. Our horses were much af-
frighted at their strange appearance. — We were kindly received
at Wesleyville by Charles and Elizabeth Grubb, the artisan
and his wife, and by Richard Hully, the catechist, all of whom
had lately come to the Station. Richard Hully and Charles
Grubb had spent many years in Caffraria. The former was
once engaged in trading, about the mouth of the Bashee,
where the CafFers were very numerous. Some land was under
the plough at this Station, at which our horses received the
treat of a feed of oats in the sheaf. — In a copse by the side
of a brook the beautiful climber, Cephelandra quinqueloba
allied to the Bryony displayed its elegant fruit ; this is about
the size of a pigeon^s Qgg, and is delicately shaded with pur-
ple ; the flowers are of a golden yellow. This plant is also
met with in the adjacent parts of the Colony.
26th. The Wesleyville station was despoiled during the
late war, and its inhabitants were scattered. Some of them
afterwards settled at the Beeka and at Newton Dale, two sta-
tions nearer to the Colony ; others went to other places, and
but few returned hither. The houses of the missionary and
artisan were now in a dilapidated state ; the end of the former
had fallen in during the late rain. A chapel newly built of
stone was just roofed. — A son of John AyUff", the missionary,
kept a store at this station, in a little wattle-and-dab hut.
Stores, if conducted by conscientious persons, are often useful
in such situations; they are an encouragement to trading, which
has a civilizing tendency ; but they are hurtful where persons
are allowed to contract debts, as is the case at some of the
Hottentot Stations. The trade with the CafFers is conducted
by barter. — We had a meeting in the forenoon in a large room
in the mission-house; the mother of Pato, a neighbouring
1839.] CAFFRARIA. 287
Chief, and one of his brothers were present, along with
several other CafFers. The CafFers of this district are called
Gonoquabi, or Eastern CaiFers.
27th. We resumed our journey, and passed over a coun-
try broken by several deep ravines, most of which had only
insignificant streams of water in them, even at this season,
after heavy rains. We forded the Keiskamma, which is here
a considerable river. Its woody banks were very gay with
Tecoma capensis, and Plumbago capensis, the last is a low
bush with handsome, blue flowers. — We made but a short
stop at the Beeka, as the Missionary, had not returned from
Grahams Town, and there was no person in charge. About
thirty Caffer families were settled here, and there were more
in the neighbourhood. A mission-house and a chapel had
been erected. We took tea with a young man who had a
store here, and who rode with us about six miles further, to
a Wesleyan missionary station, now called D'Urban, which
was in charge of a catechist named Richard Walker, by
whom we were kindly welcomed.
28th. About one thousand Fingoes are located here, under
the auspices of the Colonial Government; they reside in several
kraals, within a mile of the mission-house and chapel. This
station is on a Government reserve made specially for the
Fingoes, liberated in the late war. We accompanied Richard
Walker to Fort Peddie, a military post on the opposite side
of the valley, in which the Fingoes have their gardens. About
forty Hottentot-soldiers and sixty British were stationed here,
for the protection of the Fingoes. Eight months since, the
Fingoes were attacked by some neighbouring CafFers, who took
about two thousand head of cattle from them, only a small num-
ber of which were restored on the interference of the Colonial
Government. — In the afternoon, some CafFers passed, racing
with oxen. This is one of their favourite amusements ; it is ,
not, however, a gambling race, but merely for the purpose of
seeing which ox runs the fastest. One or two men on horse-
back go first, whom the oxen follow ; the other parties ride
after, being also mounted on horses.
29th. There were here twelve Europeans, and fifteen Fin-
goes, members of the Wesleyan church, and seventeen Fingo
288 d'urban. [3rd mo.
catechumens. Few of the Fingoes could read ; the school
for their instruction was only held on First-days, for want of
a suitable room. This would be remedied when the chapel was
finished. A military school was held daily at Fort Peddie, in
the room used for worship. — We had a large meeting with the
Fingoes, in the forenoon, in which a son of the Catechist,
who spoke Caffer like his mother-tongue, was our interpreter.
We had much to communicate to the people, on the dealings
of God with their nation, particularly pointing out his good-
ness in now offering them the blessing of the knowledge of
the Gospel of his dear Son. — A temperance-meeting was held
at Fort Peddie, in the evening ; the attendants were princi-
pally military. Spirituous liquors being excluded here, the
people were accessible, in a considerable degree, to temper-
ance reasoning. Wine is still sold at a sort of barrack-can-
teen, under the charge of a sergeant ; this liquor, like the
generality of Cape wines, is strongly spirited, and it keeps
up a destructive appetite for powerful stimulants ; it is
frequently used to an intoxicating excess. — The Fingoes are
an interesting, sober, industrious people ; but having been in
a sort of slavery among the CafFers, they have something of
that cunning and concealment of character which slavery in-
duces ; they are far from being openly thievish, like many of
the CafFers. It is remarked, that a CafFer, who, if uncon-
nected with you, would steal your horse, will suffer no one to
steal it, if it be committed to his charge, and he will himself
dehver it up faithfully ; but a Fingo, who would not steal by
himseK, will easily fall into a combination to rob. The Fin-
goes about Fort Peddie are, however, sufficiently honest to
admit of tools, &c. being left out without loss. — The eldest son
of the Catechist, had a store here ; he once had one also at
the Beeka, but the person who attended to it, was murdered,
by some CafFers, of whom he had bought a calf-skin, because
he produced the skin, and acknowledged having purchased it
of certain parties, who it was proved had stolen it, and who
were thus discovered.
30th. Last evening, a thunderstorm came on, and the rain
continued most of to-day ; but the weather becoming finer in
the evening, we rode to Newton Dale. Here, after a tedious
1839.] CAFFRARIA. 289
ride of twelve miles, over a grassy, undulating country, of not
very fertile aspect, we were kindly greeted by William B.
Boyce and his wife, who were the only Wesleyan Mission-
aries that we saw in CafFraria ; they had just returned from
their District Meeting at Grahams Town.
31st. We had the privilege of addressing about one hun-
dred CaiFers, through the medium of Mary Philmore, a pious
young woman, the daughter of an Albany Settler, who inter-
preted with great facility and propriety. Newton Dale is in
the country of the Christian CafFer Chief, Kama; he and
eleven others of his nation were members of the mission
church here. There were also three catechumens. The
school usually held here had from forty to fifty pupils.
4th mo. 1st. Newton Dale is pleasantly situated. In dry
weather, the pools in the bed of the river are brackish; this is
also the case at D'Urban, and at the Beeka, yet not so much
so as to render the water unwholesome. Though the neigh-
bouring rivulets are not sufficiently regular to be used for irri-
gation, there is a considerable quantity of cultivated land in
the valleys. The three stations of Newton Dale, D'Urban, and
the Beeka, are in what was formerly the Neutral Territory ;
they have all been commenced since the war. — We were
detained here all day by the straying of our horses. This
afforded us opportunity for further conversation with the intel-
ligent missionary, by whom the study of the CafFer language
has been greatly facilitated, through his discovery of its eu-
phonic concordance. It is a language of great power, and so
constructed as to admit of great accuracy of expression.
2nd. We left Newton Dale, and traversed a few grassy
hills, stony in some places, but diversified by copses, gay
with flowering shrubs. Flowers were also numerous in the
open grounds. In some of the shallow pools, Crinum aquati-
cum, a lily-like flower of purple-red, shaded into white, was
very abundant and beautiful. About four miles from Newton
Dale, we entered the Fish River Bush, and at the same time
began to descend into the deep ravine, in the clay-slate for-
mation, in which the river flows. This bush extends many
miles, and is very thick. Spekboom and the arboreous Eu-
phorbia are among the principal plants of which it is formed.
290 CAFFRARiA. [4th mo.
The former is the favourite food of the Elephant, which, a
few years ago, abounded here ; this huge animal formed the
tracks now used as roads ; it was so generally destroyed, for
the sake of its ivory that it is now rarely seen. The common
two-horned Rhinoceros, the Buffalo, Lion, Leopard, Hyena,
Wild-dog, and some less formidable animals, are still to be
found here. The Wild-dog, Hyana venatica, described in the
work called The Tower Menagerie under the name of Hyena-
dog, Canis picta is larger than a fox-hound ; its colour is red-
dish brown, variously mottled in large patches with black
and white, intermixed; its ears are black, erect, and very large.
These animals partake of the characters of the Dog and the
Hyena : they hunt in packs, and are consequently very formi-
dable. A young officer of our acquaintance, was lately cross-
ing the Great Fish River, at the ford called Trumpeters
Drift. When in the track, in the bush, a pack of these ani-
mals fell upon his dog ; while they were devouring it, he
escaped, under the conviction, that had not their attention
been temporarily occupied with his dog, himself and his horse
would have been in great danger. The Hippopotamus, Hip-
popotamus amphibius, is known in Africa by the name of Sea-
cow; it is between four and five feet high, and about eleven
feet long; its legs are short, and its mouth is capable of
opening very wide ; its colour is brownish red, and its figure
somewhat hke that of an overgrown pig ; it is still found near
the mouth of the Great Fish River, and abounds in the mouths
of the rivers of Caffraria ; it sometimes walks into the gardens
of the CafFers, and commits great depredations among their
corn. We saw the prints of its large feet in the mud of the
ford at which we crossed the Fish River. This ford is called
Caffers Drift ; it is wide and stony, and has a broad margin
of reeds on each side ; these with the flowing of the tide,
occasion a great deposit of mud, which renders the river diffi-
cult to cross, even by wading and leading the horses.
CHAPTER XX.
Bank of the Great Fish River. — Convenient meeting. — Kap Rivier. — Hottentot
Settlements. — Lions. — Phoenix reclinata. — CafFer-drift Post. — Clumber. — Re-
markable Recovery. — Great Avrakening. — Ebenezer Chapel saved by a Bible.
— Port Francis. — Kowie River. — Bathurst. — Kowie Bush. — Strelitzia regina-
— Hyena's Hole. — Ratels. — Theopolis. — Relapses. — Country. — Salem. — R.
Gush and the CafFers. — CafFer War. — Journey to Grahams Town. — Conference
with Wesley an Missionaries. — State of the Caffer Frontier. — Horses. — Prin-
ciples of Friends. — Bible Meeting. — Farmerfield. — Wesleyan Stations. — Sheep-
feeding. — Temperance Meetings. — Wild Animals. — Cape Jerboa. — Hottentot
and Leopard. — Nerine undulata. — Weather. — Bushmen's Drawings. — Im-
proving Bechuana. — Meetings. — Religious Revivals. — Hottentots. — Fingoes,
&c. of Grahams Town. — Interview with the Lieutenant-Governor.
4th mo. 2nd. Our horses were unable to carry us through
the mud of the Great Fish River, and in leading them they
bespattered us so that we required some washing, on arriving
at the colonial side; this being effected we ascended the
southern side of the ravine in which it runs; this was woody,
and steep, but it was rendered interesting by the beauty
of its vegetation. Among the striking plants were a fine
Ipomcea and a handsome Hibiscus, the blue Plumbago ca-
pensis and the scarlet Tecoma capensis. At a mile and a
half from the river, near a deserted military post, we emerged
from the bush. Here, upon some sterile rocks, there were
scattered plants of Crassula obliqua, producing splendid
tufts of little, scarlet flowers. On finding a spring of water,
we ofF-saddled, to refresh our horses and partake of the pro-
vision made for us by our friends, such as we were kindly
supplied with at all the Stations we visited. We had not
been long at this place before we were joined by Richard
Gush, of Salem, with whom we had become acquainted when
in Grahams Town, and George Barnes, a pious man, in the
commissariat department, at the neighbouring military post,
T 2
292 CAFPER DRIFT POST. [4th mo.
called Caffer-drift Post. The former had expressed a wish
to meet us on our return from CafFraria, and we had written
to him from Mount Coke, to inform him of the probable
time of our return to the Colony ; we had not specified the
time to a day, but we were now brought together, just when
the services of the young man who conducted him, were most
useful. We wished to see an aged couple of the name of
Munro, in the service of the London Missionary Society,
who, we knew were located somewhere among these wild,
woody hills, but whose abode we should not have been likely
to find without the assistance of such a guide, who led us by
an intricate path to the spot, by the side of the Kap Rivier.
John Munro and his wife were dwelling in a tent, un-
till a thatched cottage, now nearly completed, should be
ready for their reception. About fifteen Hottentot families
were located around them, and a few more at a short distance.
These people were rationed, for a few months, by the Govern-
ment, to give them time to establish themselves. They were
designed as a sort of frontier-barrier, between the Colonists
and the Caffers. Some other such companies were also
placed along the Boundary, but this experiment was not a
successful one. The soil in some of these places was poor,
and the Hottentots were not generally of a class, industrious
enough readily to overcome difficulties.
A ride of an hour and a half from the Kap Rivier, brought
us safely to the Caff'er-drift Post, where we became the guests
of some Wesleyans from the border of Lancashire. In travel-
ling along this road a few weeks previously. Dr. Philip and
his wife, and party, were alarmed by Lions, but were provi-
dentially preserved from injury by them. They were in the
dark, and the younger James Read, accompanied by a Hot-
tentot, preceded the wagon. The roar of a Lion to leeward,
apprized them of their danger, and they returned to the
wagon, knowing that if the oxen smelt the ravenous beast,
they would be likely to run away, and do mischief. The boy
who led the oxen, being also aware of this danger, imme-
diately brought the leading oxen round to the wheel of the
wagon, till the drag-shoe was put on one of the wheels, and
lights were obtained. When this precaution had been adopted.
■uuj ok.
WL.
1839.] CAPE COLONY. 293
and a lantern placed in the front of the wagon, and another
given to the leader, they again proceeded, and by the light dis-
covered, that another lion had been approaching them along
the road. It had come so near, that had not the roar of the
other given notice of danger, James Read and his companion
would probably have been in contact with it in a few minutes.
The mark upon the road proved that the lion had remained
till the lights were got out ; and the man returning with the
oxen in the morning, said, it was evident, from the foot-
prints, that lions had afterwards been playing there.
In some of the narrow woody valleys about the Kap Rivier,
and the adjacent parts of Albany, the Little Date, Phoenix
reclinata, abounds ; it has pectinate leaves, and attains to
about 10 feet in height. It is a highly ornamental little
palm, and frequently bears the name of CofFee-tree, because
of the form and size of its seeds, which nevertheless are not
available for the purposes of coffee. Children eat the thin,
sweet coating of the fruit.
3rd. After some religious service among the military
and others at the Caffer-drift Post, we rode to Clumber, a
pretty, rural settlement, where the Wesleyans have a neat,
little chapel. On the way we called upon a man named
Richard Hulley, a quiet, sweet-spirited Christian, who related
to us, with much simplicity, the following remarkable cir-
cumstance, which occurred in connexion with his being effec-
tually turned to the Lord. He was formerly negligent of
the things which concerned the glory of God and the peace
of his own soul, and had been spending his time with un-
steady companions, when he was applied to, to obtain some
honey for a Missionary who was ill. In endeavouring to do
this, he ascended a tree, and cut out a wild-bees nest, but
losing his hold, he fell from the branch on which he stood
to another, and ultimately to the ground, and broke one or
more of his ribs by the fall ; the injury was succeeded by
great pain and locked-jaw, so that he was extremely ill for
about three weeks. When in this state, he felt, that unless
Divine mercy were extended to him, he should perish, body
and soul. Under a powerful conviction of the awfulness of
his situation, he arose from his bed, and on bended knees,
T 3
294 CLUMBER. [4th mo.
implored deliverance. When praying, he thought he heard a
voice encouraging him to persevere, with the assurance
that his prayer should prevail, and soon after this, he felt
a great change in himself; his mind was filled with peace,
and his body with comfort ; he moved himself about to feel
the extent of the change, and found that his broken rib was
restored to soundness, and his jaw loosed ; his pain was also
gone, and he returned to bed with tears of joy, and songs of
thanksgiving. He was much emaciated by his previous ill-
ness, during which he had been unable to sleep, but now, as
he lay praising the Lord for his goodness, he heard again, as
it were, a voice, which said, " Peace, be still. " Attending
to this injunction, his mind became quiet ; he fell asleep, and
slept till the morning. When he awoke, he was still much
reduced in flesh, but in sound health, which he continued to
enjoy at the time of our visit.
At Clumber, we became the guests of Thomas Peel, from
the west of Yorkshire, who was the master of a school, held
in the chapel, and a local-preacher among the Wesleyans.
A remarkable awakening took place lately among the people
w^ho emigrated from England some years ago, and settled in
this district of South Africa, which is called Albany. Most
of them are now united to the Wesleyans, and many of
them acknowledge, that through the divine blessing, they
are now better off" than they were before the late CafFer
war, in which many of their houses were burnt, and much
of their little property was destroyed. The proof they re-
ceived at that period, of the uncertainty of temporal things,
had, in some measure, weaned their minds from an undue at-
tachment to them, and prepared them for receiving the visita-
tions of divine mercy. Most of those living in this vicinity
support themselves by agriculture and the burning of lime.
We had a meeting with them in the evening, in which we
spent much time in silence, under a sense of emptiness and
weakness. At length, I felt what I beheved to be a sufficient
authoritj^, to quote the passage of Scripture, " Resist the devil
and he will flee from you ; draw nigh unto God and he will
draw nigh unto you, " and to make a few comments, as well
as to offer up vocal supplication. My dear companion also
1839.] CAPE COLONY. 295
exhorted the people to keep close to the Lord in spirit, and
to avoid trusting in outward excitements for the maintenance
of a devotional spirit. While engaged in these exercises, a
precious feeling of divine unction came gradually over the
meeting, to the great refreshment of our souls, and under
this sense of the goodness and mercy of God, we separated.
4th. We called upon a number of the settlers, on the way
to another little Wesleyan village, called Ebenezer, where we
became the guests of an honest local-preacher named John
Usher. When the inhabitants fled from this neighbourhood,
at the time of the CafFer war, it was proposed to take the
Chapel Bible with them, but John Usher desired that it might
be left, saying, it might perhaps do some good. When the
Caffers entered the chapel, seeing the Bible lying, they re-
garded the place as occupied, and therefore did not burn it ;
they burnt all unoccupied chapels and houses, lest they
should be converted into barracks. In the evening we met
a little congregation in this chapel. The meeting was emi-
nently owned by a sense of the Lord's presence, both as we
sat in silence, and as we laboured in the Gospel.
5th. Thomas Peel accompanied us to Port Frances, at
the mouth of the Kowie River. At this pretty, little village,
which was intended for the principal port of Albany, when
Bathurst was designed to be the chief town of the Eastern
Province, we had a meeting, in a building belonging to a pri-
vate individual, in which the Wesleyans held public worship,
the Caffers having burnt the chapel at this place. This
meeting was one in which we felt an openness in regard to
religious labour, yet there was not so great a measure of
heavenly unction as in those at Ebenezer and Clumber ; but
this was not to be expected, as the congregation was of a
much more mixed character. — The Kowie River is navigable
for a short distance, but its entrance is difficult. In the after-
noon we rode to Bathurst, intending to have a meeting there
in the evening, but rain came on so heavily as to prevent
the people assembling.
6th. The village of Bathurst, with its thatched and white-
washed, English-looking cottages and houses, scattered among
bushy fields, looked beautiful this morning. The little hills
296 BATHURST. [4th mo
on which it is situated, overlook the sea, at about eight miles
distance. A pretty, little. Episcopal chapel is built on an
elevated spot, commanding a view of the town, the popula-
tion of which was at this time 136 white, and 143 coloured
persons. — We mustered a congregation of about fifty persons,
in the Wesleyan Chapel, including a young, military officer,
a few Hottentot soldiers, a young man in the Commissariat
Department, and a few of the persons that usually met here.
It was a season of divine favour, demanding thankfulness.
In the afternoon Thomas Peel accompanied us part of the
way through the Kowie-bush, which is much like that of the
Fish River, the road being an old, elephant track. Here we
separated from this simple-hearted man, with whom we en-
joyed a measure of christian fellowship, such as is always
refreshing to the christian traveller. We now pursued our
route, attended only by Hendrik Nooka. Our road lay, for
a considerable distance, along the bottom of the deep woody
ravine of the Kowie, in which a species of Angrecum ? was
growing as an epiphyte upon the trees, and exhibiting its
small, yellow blossoms. The beautiful Strelitzia regina was
abundantly in flower on the north side of the ravine : it is
very plentiful in this country, growing in large tufts among
the bushes. Its leaves have a flag-like appearance, they are
spoon-shaped, and on stout footstalks; its singular orange
blossoms, three inches long, with purple tongue-hke anthers,
are produced from the upper side of a large, horizontal
sheath, on the top of a stalk, and present a very remarkable
appearance. The seeds of the large, white flowered species,
Strelitzia augusta, which grows nearer the coast, are edible.
— We kept a close look out, lest we should fall in with
Elephants, in the grassy flats by the side of the river; we met
however with none of these stupendous animals, but in can-
tering along, both my horses feE simultaneously into the hole
of a Hyena, from the earth giving way. I had scarcely time
to recover my seat on the saddle, off" which I was projected
upon the neck of my steed, before he sprang out with me,
and we rode off" without stopping to inquire if the inhabitants
of this subterranean dwelhng were at home, or what damage
we had done. Grass became more abundant as we proceeded
1839.] CAPE COLONY. 297
over a series of hills, separated by woody kloofs, toward
Theopolis, a station of the London Missionary Society, where
we met a hearty welcome from Thomas Merrington, and
others engaged in the mission. On the way, we disturbed a
pair of Ratels, which made off with all speed among the long
grass, which greatly impeded their progress, their legs being
very short. The Ratel, Ratelus melivorus, is about three feet
long and a foot high : it is somewhat like the Badger in form,
but is remarkably broad and flat ; its colour is a dull ash-gray
above, and black beneath ; it has long claws on the fore-feet,
with which it digs in the earth, both in burrowing and in ob-
taining honey. When attacked, it defends itself resolutely ;
it is difficult to kill, except by a blow on the nose. Eggs and
honey are favourite food of these animals. The latter is the
produce of the Common Honey Bee, which abounds in many
parts of South Africa, in clefts of rocks and holes in the ground.
7th. Christopher Sass, an aged German missionary, after
having preached for some time, afforded us an opportunity of
addressing the people, through the medium of Thomas Ed-
wards, the resident schoolmaster. — At this time the popula-
tion of Theopolis ranked low in comparison with the Hotten-
tots of the other stations of the London Missionary Society,
most of the more orderly and industrious famihes having
removed to the Kat River. The Fingoes and Bechuanas re-
siding here decidedly excelled the Hottentots in energy and
industry. The Hottentots resided in cottages, most of which
were much out of repair, and the Fingoes and Bechuanas in
beehive-huts. The coloured population of Theopolis was at
this time taken at three hundred and twenty. About fifty of
them, two-thirds of whom were females, were members of the
church, and resided at the station ; there were nearly half as
many non-residents, whose names were still on the list. Theo-
polis being in the proximity of Grahams Town and Bathurst,
the corrupting influence of these places was strongly felt, espe-
cially in regard to strong drink.
8th. We walked round the Station, which is only a few
miles from the sea ; some of the Fingoes were drying
thin slices of Pumpkin in the sun, for winter use. We also
visited the schools ; the attendance of that for infants was
298 SALEM. [4th mo.
from sixty to seventy : that for elder children varied from
fifteen to fifty. A good proportion of the pupils read the
Testament in Enghsh. At this Station, as well as at some
others, there was a want of efficient discipline, and a conse-
quent want of harmony among the people. A cause of
lamentation here, in common with other places, was, that
many who had been awakened, and who, through repentance
and faith in Christ, had attained to a measure of peace, in
a sense of the forgiveness of past sin, had not kept to their
first love, but had lapsed into a lukewarm state, or even into
such coldness, that though old sins might not have been
returned to, it was nevertheless difficult to say that any spiri-
tual hfe remained.
In the evening, we had a parting interview with the Hot-
tentots, to whom much counsel was extended, on the import-
ance of honesty, industry, temperance, love, proper care of
families, and general attention in all things, to walk as be-
cometh godliness.
9th. We left Theopolis for Salem, twenty-two miles dis-
tant. Much of the intervening country is sandy hills with
thin grass, on a basis of compact Sandstone. In a copse,
near a small stream, called the Karrega, a fine Gardinea, a
handsome shrub with large, fragrant white blossoms, was
in flower. — On the way, we called on a pious family of
Baptists, the father of which was formerly a tailor in Lon-
don ; he appeared well acquainted with experimental religion,
and much filled with the spirit of love. — Toward evening we
passed over an extensive plain, and descended into the vale
of the Assagai Bush River, in which the neat cottages and
houses of Salem are scattered, so as to present a very pleas-
ing and picturesque appearance. On arriving at the dwell-
ing of Richard Gush, we received a hearty welcome. This
individual objected to take up arms in the late Caffer
war. He also refused to leave his own house, and go to
Grahams Town for protection, as most of the other in-
habitants of Salem had done ; their conduct appearing to
him, to imply a want of trust in God, and an undue lean-
ing upon human help. On about three hundred Caff'ers ap-
pearing in the neighbourhood of Salem, he thought it hi?
1839.] CAPE COLONY. 299
duty to go to them, notwithstanding the dissuasions of his
wife and daughter. Accompanied by a person named Woest,
and followed at a distance by his son-in-law, Philip Amm
and another young man, he went on horseback, having first
put off his coat, that the CafFers might distinctly see, that he
was unarmed. In further proof of this, on approaching them,
he and his companion held up their hands, and at about 150
yards distance, called to them, desiring that if any one among
them could speak the Dutch language, he would come down
to them with his hands also erect. When the Caifers saw
that these intrepid men were unarmed, their captain and one
of his men came near. Richard Gush then inquired, why
the Caffers came to steal the cattle of the Salem people,
which they had that morning taken away, as they were going
out to feed, or to burn the village and kill the people,
which they had threatened to do. Hearing Richard Gush
speak in the Dutch language, they said that they were not
come to hurt the Dutch, but to drive the English into the
sea. Richard Gush then told them, that he was an English-
man, and that the village before them was English, and he
inquired of the one who spoke Dutch, if he had ever lived in
the Colony. The man replied, that he had lived about twelve
years near Bathurst. Richard Gush then said, " Dost thou
know any one amongst the settlers who has taken cattle from
the Caffers, or done them any harm ? " The man replied,
" No. " Then pointing to the Wesleyan Mission-House,
Richard Gush told him, that five Missionaries had gone from
that place to teach the Caffers, mentioning the names of Wil-
liam Shaw, Stephen Kay, Samuel Young, John Ayliff, and
Samuel Palmer. The man said he knew none of them, but
John Ayliff, from which it was inferred, that he belonged to
Hintza, among whose people John Ayliff was labouring.
Richard Gush then pointed to the Wesleyan chapel, and said,
*' There the inhabitants of Salem pray for you, that you may
become better men. " Both the Caffer who spoke Dutch,
and his Captain stood like men ashamed of their conduct,
but said, that it was hunger that drove them out to steal. To
this Richard Gush answered, " You cannot be hungry now,
for you have nearly all our cattle in the bush behind you."
300 SALEM. [4th mo.
The number of these was considerable. The man then said,
they had no bread. Richard Gush then pointed to his
house, at the door of which, his wife and children were
standing, and said, " If you will send one of your men, my
wife will give him some bread and tobacco, and I will stand
security for him till he return." The man replied, " If you
will go yourself and bring it, we will go away." Richard
Gush then rode back, and soon returned, bringing two loaves
of bread, weighing about fifteen pounds, a roll of tobacco,
of ten pounds, and twelve pocket-knives. He told the
Captain to take some of the knives to his Chief, and tell
him, that they were sent by one who could neither steal
cattle nor kill his fellow-men, but who, with his fellow-
settlers, had always been the best friends of the Caffers,
and should not cease to pray, that God would make them
better men ; he also expostulated with them on their great
wickedness. The parties then shook hands, and the Caffers
went away, and were seen no more in the vicinity of Salem,
which might justly be regarded as given of the Lord, into
the hand of one who dared to trust in Him.
Some years previous to this, some Caffers stole Richard
Gush's whole team of bullocks, when he was travelling, and
when his circumstances were so adverse that he could not
purchase others to replace them. He would not, however,
lodge an information on the case before the authorities, lest
any military should be sent after the Caffers, and human blood
should be spilt. A kind Dutchman let him have more oxen,
on trust, hoping they might be paid for some time, but know-
ing all the circumstances. Thus Richard Gush kept his hands
clean of the patrol system, which was one of petty reprisal,
utterly repugnant to justice, and to the peaceable spirit of
the Gospel. The Albany settlers generally, are much chafed
at having been identified with this system, in the evidence
before Parliament on the Caffer question ; but it is question-
able whether more than a very few others could have been
found, who would have acted thus, and in a time of trial have
declined to avail themselves of such a system, for the recovery
of their property. Few persons take properly into account,
the peaceable nature of the Gospel, even among those who
1839.] CAPE COLONY. 301
know much of its power, in many other important re-
spects.
10th. After calling on James Cameron, the resident Wes-
leyan Missionary, with whom we became acquainted when in
Cape Town, in 1831, and on William Henry Mathews, who
kept a respectable boarding-school, we proceeded to Grahams
Town, accompanied by Richard Gush and one of his sons.
During the Caffer-war Richard Gush had frequent occasion
to travel this road. The danger was so great that it was sel-
dom that any one dared to accompany him. Before setting
out he sought for the feeling of peace in the prospect ; and
when advanced upon the way, he often turned into a little
copse, by the side of the road, and in retirement of spirit
before the Lord, sought further confirmation as to continuing
his journey. On feeling peaceful in the anticipation, he pro-
ceeded, and thus trusting in the Lord, and seeking his coun-
sel, he was preserved in safety. — The road from Salem to
Grahams Town leads through a picturesque opening among
the hills, called Howesons Poorte.
In many instances in the late Caffer-war, the settlers lost
more through the professed protection of the Government
than by the Caffers. The settlers were generally collected,
with their cattle, at Grahams Town ; and during the period
that operations of an agricultural or pastoral kind were sus-
pended, the people were fed out of the common stock ; the
persons whose cattle were thus consumed, received very little
compensation. It seems to have been a time of general
spoliation, except to the military and the merchants. The
transactions of many of the latter are reported to have been
far from upright, in regard to charges for supplies, and to
the nature of the things they persuaded those commissioned
to make purchases for the army, to take. Some of this class
of persons, and some who long for a possession in the better
land inhabited by the Caffers, appear at all times ready to fan
any little spark of disturbance, between these people and the
neighbouring colonists, into a flame of discord. After the
Caffer war, and while part of Caffraria was in the hands of the
English, many applications were made to the Governor of the
Cape Colony for grants of land in Caffraria ; we only met
302 GRAHAMS TOWN. [4th mo.
however with one individual who had tlie ingenuousness to
acknowledge having made such an application, but many said,
if Caftraria had been retained by the British, there would
have been no necessity for allowing the colonists to have
locations of land within its borders.
11th. We spent the evening with William Shaw, the
Superintendent of the Wesleyan Missions in this part of
South Africa, who was from home at the time of our former
visit to Grahams Town. At his house we met Samuel
Palmer, from Morley, William Shepstone, from the Beeka,
and Henry Dugmore, from Mount Coke, as well as William
Impey and a missionary named Richards, who were sojourn-
ing for a time in Grahams Town. With this goodly com-
pany, including also some of their wives, we had much con-
versation respecting the fields of labour in which they were en-
gaged and on the want of more attention to schools, and to the
cultivation of useful arts at their stations. The former of these
was needed to promote a better tone of morals, and a state
of mind more congenial to svibjugation to Christian principle
among the children, and the latter, to enable the people to
dwell within the reach of Christian instruction. On these
subjects the Missionaries were united with us in judgment ;
but they said, that the claims upon them to extend Christian
instruction beyond their present field of labour, were so great,
that they were cramped for want of means to carry out this
primary object, and they could not consequently give the atten-
tion they wished to secondary ones.
12th. I spent the afternoon with John Lock, of the Lon-
don Missionary Society, with whom I had much conversation
on the state of the Caffers. The depredations committed by
some of the Gaika Caffers and the Tambookies, upon the
horses and cattle of the Settlers were certainly grievous, and
the herdsmen were sometimes murdered by the thieves. — The
principles of the Treaties with the Caffers were much com-
plained of by the Settlers, many of whom being persons of
little education, had not generally learned to discriminate
between the just principles of the Treaties, and the defective
arrangements for carrying them into operation. The latter
appeared to have been adopted without much regard to the
1839.] CAPE COLONY. 303
motives which influence human nature; the consequence
was, that at tliis time the thieving of tlie CafFers was as great
as it was before the war, if not greater. But notwithstanding
this was the case, the value of land on the CafFer-frontier had
been steadily increasing. Since that time a person at Fort
Beaufort gave sixteen thousand rix-doUars for a farm on
the Kunap River, that, before the war, was not considered
worth more than six thousand ; and one, sold some time pre-
viously on the Mancasana for three hundred pounds, is now
valued at fifteen hundred. — In 1841 the following prices were
given for farms on the Frontier, or refused to be accepted.
One farm bought from a Boor for £^50 sold for i/ 1,700.
Ditto £300 sold for £2,400.
Ditto £760 refused £2,000.
Ditto £270 do. £2,000.
Several others were sold, or had sums in proportion refused
for them, lliere are, however, still persons to be found who
deprecate the present system of Frontier Policy, and who
would revert to a military occupancy of Caffraria; and among
them it is to be lamented, there are some who profess to be
disciples of the Prince of Peace ! — The Gonoquabi CafFers,
among whom the Wesleyans are labouring, have generally
abandoned the practice of thieving.
13th. Several of our horses being much run down in con-
dition by our late journey, we concluded to sell them by
auction. In the course of the day we returned to Salem.
14th. The use of the Wesleyan Chapel having been
granted us, we had a meeting in it with the inhabitants of
the village, in which many important truths were brought
before them. In the evening we had a silent, but very satis-
factory religious opportunity, with Richard Gush and his
wife, the former of whom had adopted, to a considerable ex-
tent, the principles and practices of the Society of Friends.
At one time his prejudice against the principles of our So-
ciety was great, but observing that Friends were the steady
advocates of the cause of the oppressed, he was led to the
conclusion, that good principles must lie at the root of such
practical results ; he therefore examined these principles,
carefully comparing them with the Scriptures ; and he adopted
304 FARMERFIELD. [4th mO.
them, under the conviction, that they were those of Chris-
tianity in its simphcity and fuhiess.
15th. We took tea with a few pious Wesleyans, with
whom we had some satisfactory conversation, as well as some
more direct religious communication, for which the way open-
ed through the medium of family devotional exercises; these
we were frequently requested to conduct in our own way >
this was to read a portion of Scripture, and to remain in
silence for a time, with our minds turned to the Lord, unless
anything were given us to communicate, in the line of gospel
ministry.
16th. This was the anniversary meeting of the Salem Aux-
iliary Bible Society, which was the first Bible Society establish-
ed in Albany ; the contributions to it have been most liberal.
The interest exhibited by the inhabitants of Salem on behalf
of the Emigrant Boors was interesting. Many of these peo-
ple went from this neighbourhood, where they possessed con-
siderable property ; they are now greatly reduced. Some of
those who fell into the snare of emigrating, are said to have
been pious, by persons not at all ignorant of the faults of this
class of people. A case of Bibles was provided for them
some time back, which Daniel Lindley was now requested to
take in charge, with the expression of the Christian sympathy
of the meeting, both for them and for the unenlightened
Zoolus, with whom they were reported to be at peace. —
We spent the evening with a large company at the house of
William Henry Matthews, where we had some conversation
on the importance and advantages of the total abstinence
system.
17th. Accompanied by William Shaw and several other
Wesleyans, we rode to a place which had received the appel-
lation of Farmerfield, distant from Salem about an hour's
ride on horseback. This is a Missionary Station on a mo-
dern plan, devoted to the benefit of the coloured tribes.
A school had already been opened, in which a few youths,
rising towards manhood, some of whom were the sons of
native Chiefs were instructed in English, Dutch, Sichuan a,
and Caffer, with a view to their being employed as school-
masters at Missionary Stations. Several of these youths
1839.] CAPE COLONY. 305
had made good progress^ and were pious. The design was
also to locate liberated slaves, Beclmanas, and CafFers with
Fingoes, in three distinct groups, sufficiently near to each
other to render the chapel and schools easily accessible to
all. The different habits of these classes, seemed to make
such a separation necessary, at least for a time. The estate
contains 6,000 acres : it was formerly a sheep-farm, but is
better adapted for horned-cattle and agriculture ; it was
thought to be equal to the support of about fifty families,
exclusive of mechanics. Each family was to occupy an erf,
as tenant, and to have common pasturage over the estate,
under certain regulations. Institutions of this kind are likely
to increase the agricultural labourers of the districts where
they are placed, and at the same time, to keep them under
good care, with regard to common education and rehgious in-
struction. The place is named after a person in London, well
known among the Wesleyans for his liberality ; it is grassy,
and pleasantly situated, but not in the most fertile part of
Albany, the soil of which is generally far from rich. — The in-
stitution at Farmerfield subsequently made good progress;
another was also settled by the Wesleyans near the Winter-
bergen, to locate free people of colour upon ; it is called
Haslope Hills, and promises to be of much service. The
Wesleyans also increased the number of their stations in Caf-
fraria, where they found much to encourage them to perse-
verance. — On the way to Farmerfield, we called on a family
who were dwelling in a tent, far from their house, for the
convenience of feeding sheep. Many sheep perished this
season from the Klaauw Zickte or Foot-rot ; this disease is
also often troublesome among larger cattle in this country.
We returned to Salem in the evening, and addressed a
small congregation in the Wesleyan chapel, on the advan-
tages of total abstinence from all intoxicating liquors. James
Cameron, Richard Gush, and some others, fully united with
us on this subject, and openly advocated it.
18th. We accompanied James Cameron and Richard
Gush, to a place twelve miles from Salem, to visit some
people who met for devotional purposes at the house of a
person named Norman. On the way, we called upon a family
306 SALEM. [4th mo.
of the name of Thomhill, also professing with the Wesleyans.
Their dwelHng was a comfortable farm-house^ in a picturesque
valley, some portions of which were woody, in consequence of
which, Hyenas and Leopards visited their flocks, and Jerboas
and Porcupines committed depredations on their cultivated
lands. — The Cape Jerboa, Helamijs capensis, called by the co-
lonists, Spring Haas, Springing-hare, is of a brownish colour,
and about the size of a small Kangaroo, to which, in figure, it
bears considerable resemblance. It is a troublesome animal in
cultivated grounds, which it visits in the night, to feed among
the corn and other crops. — The Bush-Buck was also common
here. E. Thornhill told us, that at one time, he had a Hot-
tentot in his service who was an excellent marksman, and
frequently supplied his table with game ; and that on a cer-
tain occasion, the man was steahng quietly upon a Buck,
near an adjacent wood, when it suddenly started away, and
left him confronted with a Leopard, which had been aiming
at the same prey, from the opposite direction, unperceived by
the HottentoL The Leopard immediately set up its back,
looking surprised and ferocious; the man was too close to it to
retreat; his gun was only loaded with buck-shot, but he
fired, threw down his gun, and ran away, hearing the Leopard
at the same time, howl and make a terrific uproar. Finding
that it did not pursue him, he returned about half an hour
afterwards, when to his great satisfaction, he found that his
shot had inflicted a wound which had speedily proved mortal.
He got the skin for his prize, which would be worth 15 s. or
20s. in Grahams Town, where leopards' skins are bought up by
traders, to take into Caff"raria, the Caffer Chiefs purchasing
them for oxen, to make karrosses. — Nerine undulata, a pretty
plant of the Amaryllis tribe, was plentifully in flower by the
sides of a rivulet here. — After dinner, E. Thornhill accom-
panied us to the meeting, which began after the kind peo-
ple of the place had refreshed us with tea, and furnished
us with dry clothing, rain having fallen during the latter part
of our journey. We were favoured with a time of heavenly
refreshment, in waiting upon the Lord. The persons who
assembled were chiefly such as within a year and a half, had
been awakened to a sense of the unspeakable importance of
1839.] CAPE COLONY. 307
eternal things. Three Roman Catholics of orderly conduct
were also present. — In returning to Salem, my companion's
horse fell, and he went over its head, but by the gracious
overruHng of the Preserver of men, he was favoured to escape
injury. We afterwards had a small, but favoured meeting
in the Wesleyan chapel.
19th. Much rain fell to-day, so that it was scarcely prac-
ticable to leave the house ; the cold was also severe.
20th. We visited a place in a woody valley, where, among
some overhanging rocks, there were drawings of men and
beasts, traced with a red pigment. These were evidently the
work of Bushmen, who were probably the original inhabitants
of Albany, before it became occupied by the Caffers, who
were driven out of this part of the countr}'^ by the Dutch. The
figures of the men, in this place, were about nine inches high;
those of buffaloes and other large beasts were much less. A
Bechuana, accompanied by a Caffer, named Thomas, both
members of the Wesleyan church, called to-day on Richard
Gush, to bespeak a door and window- frames for a cottage
that the Bechuana was about to build. This was the first
application of such a kind, that Richard Gush had had, from a
person of the Bechuana nation. Several Bechuanas and Fin-
goes are living in this neighbourhood.
21st. Our horses having strayed, we went on foot, ac-
companied by Richard Gush, to visit a little company, about
seven miles from Salem, who assembled for public worship,
at the house of a person named Gardiner, where a Wes-
leyan local-preacher usually attended on First-days, from
Grahams Town. Much time was spent in silence, during
which the overshadowing of the divine presence was felt in
a very comforting degree. We dined with a pious family,
who were awakened through the instrumentality of a daughter,
who became turned to the Lord, and was made an effectual
preacher to the others of the household. — The horses having
been found, they were brought to us, and we returned to Sa-
lem, where we had another meeting in the Wesleyan chapel.
Much time was spent in silence, and I had to extend some
close counsel to the company. Some sincere-hearted people
spoke of being comforted by this meeting, but to my own
u2
308 GRAHAMS TOWN. [4th mo.
mind, it was one of much painful feehng till near the conclu-
sion, when I was sensible in a small degree, of divine over-
shadowing.
22nd. We parted from our kind friends at Salem, com-
mending them to the Lord, and after paying a religious visit
to a family on the way, returned again to Grahams Town.
23rd. Francis Owen called to invite us to a meeting of
the Church Missionary Society ; but we thought it best to
decline attending it, on account of the great difference between
their views and ours, on the spiritual nature of the Gospel,
and on the Scriptural mode of promulgating it. We took tea
with Thomas and Sarah Parker, who were honest Wesleyans,
in whom there was much, true. Christian simplicity. There
was some fresh excitement here, in the way of what the Wes-
leyans term Revival. Several persons had been lately awak-
ened to a sense of the importance of seeking salvation ; it
was said that much more quietness had been maintained under
strong conviction than at some former periods. Great care is
necessary at such times, especially, that the preachers and
others who take an active part, do not allow their own spirits
to get wrongly excited, and in a mistaken zeal, build up much
"wood, hay, and stubble," where only ^'^gold, silver, and pre-
cious stones " ought to be found, upon the one everlasting
foundation.
24th. After purchasing stores for another journey, and
sending them off to Philipton, we held a meeting for the
promotion of abstinence from intoxicating liquors, in the
Wesleyan Chapel. Some parties who had not thought much
on this subject, acknowledged that very important considera-
tions had been brought under their notice.
25th. But few Dutch families reside in Grahams Town,
and not many in the district, but a pious man with whom we
were acquainted in Cape Town, had lately been stationed
here, as minister of the Dutch Church. In company with
this individual, and John Lock, of the London Missionary
Societ)-, we visited the Hottentot village, attached to Gra-
hams Town, which is often called Philippi, rather, I fear, in
a spirit of contempt for Dr. Philip, than with the intention
of giving him the honour which is justly his due, as the
1839.] CAPE COLONY. 309
steadfast friend of the Hottentot nation. In this place, which
was a disgrace to Grahams Town, more than fifty famihes were
living in miserable huts, or in most wretched hovels. Some of
them were constructed of fragments of rush-mats, sugar-bags,
and old clothes, thrown over a stick, stuck into the ground,
in a sloping direction, and eked out at the bottom with stones,
or the skulls of bullocks. Most of the inhabitants were filthy
in their persons ; but they were easy, contented, and indis-
posed to work, beyond what was absolutely necessary to get
them a little tobacco and the meanest fare ; themselves were
in rags, and their children naked. Several of them were
living in concubinage, and they spent much of their small
earnings in brandy. Only a small proportion of their chil-
dren lived to grow up, and death made such inroads among
the adults as to carry off probably a double proportion, com-
pared with the white population. The worst portion of the
Hottentot race resorted hither, for the sake of the facility of
obtaining strong drink. But making all allowance on this
score, a melancholy picture was here presented of the de-
moralizing influence of contact with the White Population,
of whom the Hottentot has too long had reason to complain,
that they would scarcely pay him for labour except in strong
drink. The White-man says, to screen himseK, that the Hot-
tentot will scarcely work without " soupies, " or drams. But
this is easily remedied where there is a determination to avert
the evil. There were here also, Fingo and Bechuana villages.
Few of the Fingoes or Bechuanas had yet learned to take
strong drink, and there was ground to hope they would not
learn, because the practice of giving drams had of late been
strongly and openly reprobated.
The villages of the Fingoes and Bechuanas, attached to
Grahams Town, were composed of beehive-shaped huts, such
as these people inhabit in their own land. Their saving
habits were in favour of their preservation from the use of
strong drink. When they had earned sufficient for the pur-
chase of a few goats or cows, the Fingoes often returned to
Fort Peddie, and the Bechuanas, across the Orange River :
they carried back some useful ideas of civilization, which they
had acquired in the Colony. Notwithstanding the forlorn
u 3
310 CAPE COLONY. [4th mo,
situation of the Hottentots in the neighbourhood of Grahams
Town, and the general practice which prevailed of speaking
evil of them, rather than of patiently striving to amend them,
there were several Hottentots of respectable appearance in
the town, in the station of domestic servants, who seemed
to be overlooked by persons who had much to say against
the Hottentot race. — We called again on Colonel Hare, the
Deputy Lieutenant Governor. He made many enquiries as to
our view of the state of CafFraria, and especially of the Fron-
tier. We acknowledged to him oxir conviction of the import-
ance of encouraging the CafFer Police to be vigilant, by giving
them a suitable payment, and rewarding them for the detec-
tion of thieves. We also suggested some measures for giving
the Chiefs a feeling of interest in suppressing thieving.
CHAPTER XXI.
Departure from Grahams Town. — Fish River. — Convicts. — Rivers. — Tomlinsons
Post. — Fort Beaufort. — Blinkwater. — Corruptions of Human Nature. — Horse
Stealing. — Protection of the Frontier. — CafFer Police. — State of Hottentots re-
siding in service. — Block Drift. — Thefts. — Chumie. — Outrage. — Purchasing
"Wives. — Philipton. — Servants. — Hottentot Preachers. — Applications for Na-
tive Teachers. — Madoor, a Bushman Chief. — Woman of the Wilderness. —
Great Serpent. — Makalema, a Fingo Chief. — Kalaghal, a Tambookie Chief. —
Gubaguba. — Application of a Gona on behalf of Daman, a Bechuana Chief. —
Macomo's Opinion of Teachers. — Prejudices of Missionaries. — Benefaction of
Friends. — Extract of a Letter from J. Read. — Temperance Meeting. — Depar-
ture from Philipton. — Cattle. — Bechuana Servant. — Detention at the Blink-
water. — " Strong Wife." — Weather. — First attempts to Address the People in
Dutch. — Deliberations of Christian Caffer Women. — Meeting with Gaffers.
4th mo. 26th. After a solemn parting from our hospitable
friends William Wright and his family, we set out to return
to the Kat River ; we were accompanied a few miles on our
way by Richard Gush, with whom we felt much sweet, reli-
gious fellowship. — We took a new road which led along a
circuitous ravine, branching from the Fish River, below Fort
Brown. At this place, a large gang of convicts, chiefly Hot-
tentots, were employed in forming the road. They were
lodged in huts resembling those of the Road-parties of Van
Diemens Land. The hill on which they were working was
of Clay-slate, interrupted by Basalt and Silicious schist.
Among the bushes with which it was clothed, there was a
species of Zamia. In the course of our journey, we saw a
flock of Guinea-fowl and another of Plovers, and a species of
Polecat, Mustella Zorilla ? the Dutch name of the last is Muis-
hond, which signifies Mouse-dog. — The quantity of water in
the Fish River, as well as in the Kunap, was considerable, but
both were fordable. — In the evening we reached Tomlinsons
312 BLiNKWATER. [4th mo.
Post, where we lodged at a comfortable inn, but the accom-
modation was so small that our servants slept out of doors.
27th. We pursued our journey. The country was much
improved in appearance, since we travelled over it before.
Grass was everywhere abundant, except in the Fish River
Bush, where many of the shrubs were in flower ; few of them
were gay, but several were fragrant. — At Fort Beaufort, we
were again kindly welcomed by J. J. Smith and family; but
as they had been visited by sickness, and had some of their
relations with them, we obtained a lodging at a house, formerly
a sort of hotel, the landlord of which was lately deceased,
and a sheriff's sale had left the poor widow nearly destitute
of furniture. George H. Green, the Wesleyan Minister, now
stationed here, kindly invited us to take our meals at his house.
28th, After breakfasting with G. H. Green and his wife,
we rode to the Blinkwater, and were glad to find Jan Tzatzoe
and James Read junior, there ; they successively interpreted
for us, when we addressed a congregation of about 150 per-
sons, of various stations in life, from the CafFer Chief, Maco-
mo, to the humblest of his people, and including Hottentots,
Gonas, or Ghonaquas, and Caffers. These were of various
grades, from the rude, red Caffer, in his greasy karross, to
the Gona and Hottentot, bordering on European civilization,
some of whom were not strangers to the faith of Christ. The
people assembled on the dry bed of a rivulet, bordered on
each side with umbrageous trees. It was " a place where
prayer was wont to be made, " and peculiarly favourable for
the purpose, in fine weather, in this climate.
The number of inhabitants is considerable in this pictur-
esque part of the country, where mountains, wood, and grass-
lands are interspersed, and the Kat and Blink-water rivulets
are scarcely ever without running water. Within a few miles
there are three schools. These along with the interesting
congregation, which we visited to-day, fell under the charge of
Henry Calderwood, of the London Missionary Society, who
with Richard Birt, stationed at Umxelo, a few miles distant,
appeared likely to be highly useful on the CafFer frontier, in
promoting religion and civilization, and in discouraging theft
and other vices, which excite animosity between the CafFers
1839.] CAPE COLONY. 313
and the Colonists. — Though Christian influence has dimin-
ished many evils among the Caifers, CafFraria is still a heathen
land. The proportion of the people who have become Chris-
tians is small, and till the Caffers become converted, " the
corrupt tree will bring forth evil fruit." — Although the cor-
ruptions of human nature are modified by circumstances, yet
all nations prove that "the tree must be made good before
the fruit can become good. "
A cottage was in the course of erection for Henry Calder-
wood, between Macomo's Kraal and a little village of Gonas,
where the wife of our guide, Hendrik Nooka, and many of
his relations resided.
After partaking of Macomo's sour milk, which was brought
us by one of his sons, we returned to Fort Beaufort, through
a kloof in the mountains, in the upper part of which there
were a few patches of Caffer-corn. The copses were deco-
rated with Tecoma capensis and Plumbago capensis. The path,
though much shorter than the road, took no less time, being
hilly and rough. In the evening we had a meeting in the
Wesleyan Sabbath-school-room. The congregation might be
about 200, with whom I had an open season of Gospel labour.
A desire to hold these meetings had been upon my mind, as
a debt of Christian love, for a long time past.
29th. We had a meeting for the promotion of temperance.
Though the retailing of spirits was prohibited here by the
Government, spirituous liquors were nevertheless obtained
and used to great injury. — The Caffers had lately stolen great
numbers of horses from this neighbourhood. The proposed
augmentation of the military force upon the Frontier, had
probably excited them to more activity in this respect. The
Caffers feel, that in case of a war, the more men they can
mount, the stronger they are ; and that the Colony is pro-
portionately weakened by the abstraction of horses. The
augmentation of the military force upon the Frontier increases
the expense of the Colony, and diverts the attention of the
people from endeavouring to maintain a peaceable relation
with the Caffers on Christian principles. With few excep-
tions, the example and influence of the military is bad. It
is a great impediment to the reception of the Gospel, both
314 FORT BEAUFORT. [4th mO.
among the CafFers and Hottentots. Many of the latter are
in a deplorable state of prostitution at the Mihtary Posts. In
allusion to the misconduct of the military, a CafFer woman
said to an Enghsh woman of our acquaintance, that she did
not see the White-men as the Caffers did. That if a CafFer
woman saw a CaiFer do what White-men did, she should
think it was because he knew no better; but White-men
knew better, and were as bad as CafFers. Everything I saw
and heard at military posts tended to deepen my conviction,
that Satan rules in the army. I believe, that, under a govern-
ment conducted on Christian principles, the peace, even of
the CafFer frontier, might be much more safely maintained,
by a well-organized, civil police, than it now is, under military
regulations. — The CafFer Police were useful on the frontier,
but the mode of paying and rewarding them, neither tended
to incite them to diligence, nor enabled them to obtain help
from their own countrymen in the execution of their duty.
They were paid at a certain daily rate, and had no quota of
the fines levied in cattle ; these were taken by the Govern-
ment.
30th. We took leave of our kind friends George and Ann
Green, whom we were glad to find clear of the prejudices
which some well-intentioned persons imbibed against the Hot-
tentots and other coloured people, and against many who had
laboured diligently for their amelioration. — Many of the Hot-
tentots decline sending their daughters into service, or with-
draw them from it, and this is almost universally attributed
to idleness. That there are instances where mistaken affec-
tion, and a want of proper thought, induce Hottentot parents
to remove their children from good places, is certain ; but
the principal ground of the complaint lies with the White
Population themselves, who, generally speaking, neither make
suitable provision for the lodging of their coloured servants,
nor take suitable care of their morals. The Hottentots are
generally so situated, even in many English families, that
nothing but strong religious principle can preserve them.
After leaving Fort Beaufort, we traversed some stony hills,
covered with grass, and besprinkled with Doom-boom, and
came again to Block Drift, within the CafFer frontier. Here
1839.] CAFFRARIA. 315
we again met a cordial welcome from Charles and Ann Stretch.
The former was about to leave home in the evening, so that
our interview with him was short ; it was nevertheless very
pleasant to meet once more with this true friend of the CafFer
nation : he informed us that he had had several hundreds of
the Amapakati assembled at Block Drift, where he had openly
charged them with being the encouragers of theft, being con-
fident that stolen cattle could not be brought into their re-
spective kraals without their knowledge. To this charge,
several of them pleaded guilty; the whole of them re-
ceived a strong admonition. The Chief, Tyalie, came to Block
Drift, while we were there, to report respecting the traces of
some CafFers, supposed to have murdered a Hottentot, in
order to prevent his giving information of the course they
had taken with stolen horses. About 300 horses had been
stolen, within two months : many of them were said to have
been traced to the Tslambie Caffers.
5 th mo. 1st. My sambok, a riding-whip of hippopotamus-
hide, was stolen this morning, off the window-seat in C. L.
Stretch's passage, the window having been left open. This
was the only article we lost while travelling among the CafFers.
After breakfast, we rode to Chumie, where Christian princi-
ple seemed to be making progress. While in the Colony we
met with a young woman, who was a servant with W. and
M. Chalmers, and was a Christian. She had once been for-
cibly carried away by a brother of the Chief, Tyalie, and he
had threatened to compel her to go and live with him ; she
therefore escaped clandestinely into the Colony, where she
had obtained a place in a pious family. This young woman's
father had connived at the outrage of Tyalie's brother, from
the hope of obtaining some cattle as the price of his daugh-
ter. The practice of buying wives tends to induce thieving.
Many of the young men who want wives, and have no cattle,
steal cattle to purchase wives with.
Leaving Chumie, we proceeded to Phihpton, where we
were again received by James Read and his family with their
wonted kindness : it was pleasant again to rest ourselves in
their humble dwelling, and to join in conversation on the
progress of Christianity among the heathen. During our
316
PHiLiPTON. [5th mo.
absence, our herdsman Abraham had had the measles ; but
through the progress of the disease, he persevered with un-
remitting attention in his charge of the cattle, two of which
had died ; the rest were in an improved condition.
2nd. Hendrik Nooka, our Caifer guide, left us ; he was
a useful servant to us : his wages were Is. 6d. a day. During
our absence James Read junior, had visited a Bushman Chief,
living in the country north of Klip Plaat, to confer with him
respecting a mission among his neglected people. The tidings
of the proposition of a mission to the Bushmen, brought an
appHcation for one from a Tambookie Chief; and a Fingo
Chief, said to be a brother of Dingaan by an inferior mother,
came to the Kat River to beg for a native teacher.
5th. In the forenoon we had an attentive congregation of
Gonas, Fingoes and Caffers, with whom we laboured through
the medium of J. Read senior, who interpreted into Dutch,
and another man, who rendered the Dutch into CafFer. There
was considerable emotion and much weeping among the
people. We afterwards had some satisfactory conversation
with a Hottentot, who was labouring in the Gospel among
the Boors of the Winterberg. In the afternoon, I addressed
a Hottentot congregation. In the evening an old Hottentot,
named Boosman Stuurman, preached in his harsh native lan-
guage, to a smaller congregation, and another person inter-
preted into CafFer, for the benefit of the Fingoes and Gonas.
The old Hottentot afterwards addressed the company in Dutch,
rehearsing much of his own experience of the goodness and
mercy of the Lord. He stated his awakening to have oc-
curred when he was but a young man, and to have resulted
from the shining of a light about him, as he was carrying his
daughter from Bethelsdorp to Theopolis; this occasioned him
to fall to the ground, when strong convictions of sin came
over his mind. From that time he became a penitent, and
now, he is daily found preaching the unsearchable riches of
Christ to his countrymen.
6th. We had the privilege of being present at a meeting,
at which the sending of native teachers to Madoor, the neigh-
bouring Bushman Chief, was under consideration. After con-
siderable discussion, it was determined to send two, with four
1839.] CAPE COLONY. 317
other members of the church, who should assist in building
the Chief a house, making him a garden, &c. and that a por-
tion of this number should be changed every three months,
lest they should forget the object of their mission, and begin
to try to establish themselves upon the place. Madoor told
some of the people who visited him from the Kat River, that
he had been brought up in the mountains, where he had
dwelt, through fear of other tribes of men ; that he had re-
mained in such ignorance that he scarcely thought himself
a human being, till once he visited Kalaghal, a neighbouring
Tambookie Chief, who treated him kindly, and as a man ; he
then began to feel that he was a human being; and now, that
persons had come to visit him that he saw were his friends,
he felt more strongly confirmed in this sentiment. He said
also, that he hoped his mother was still living, if she had not
been devoured by the Great Serpent, or by the tigers of the
mountains, and that he should be able to find her, and to
bring her to hear of salvation. Madoor spoke to them also,
of the daughter of a Bushman Chief, who, being determined
not to be brought into bondage, had shunned all society, and
dwelt alone in the wilderness, living on roots and herbs, and
on such fragments of flesh as were left by lions, tigers, and
jackals : he expressed gladness that people were proposing to
come to him, who would teach him to cultivate the ground,
because other persons were settling near him, and game was
becoming scarce, and he feared it would soon fail.
The Great Serpent, which is frequently spoken of by the
natives of South Africa, is probably Phyton natalensis ; it is
not now found within the Cape Colony, where there is reason
to believe it formerly existed : the Hottentots had a super-
stitious reverence for it, and imagined it possessed miracu-
lous powers. It is of a dull, olive brown, marked with large,
irregular, wavy-patches of yellowish brown ; its belly is of a
purplish white. Skins 25 feet long, have been brought from
the neighbourhood of Natal, and the natives speak of having
seen these formidable reptiles of a circumference equal to
that of the body of a stout man.
Makalema, the Fingo Chief, who was a grave man, was like-
wise at this meeting. He said, his reason for applying for a
318 PHiLiPTON. [5th mo.
Missionary was, that he could no longer live without the word
of God, or the Gospel. So earnest was he for religious in-
struction, that he said, he would not leave Philipton without
a teacher : his residence was in the vicinity of Klip Plaat,
where there were about forty men with him, besides women
and children. Kalaghal, a young man of a pleasant coun-
tenance, the Chief of a section of the Tambookies, resid-
ing on the Witte Kei River, likewise stated to this meet-
ing his reasons for wishing to have a Missionary ; among
these, that it was continually in his heart to apply for one.
An application was also laid before the meeting for a Mis-
sionary, on behalf of one of the oldest counsellors of Rheli,
named Gubaguba, residing in the same vicinity ; and lastly,
a pious Gona, of whom I have spoken under date of 1st mo.
22nd, being charged with a message from a Bechuana or
Mantatee Chief, named Daman, residing on the Mankasana,
was called upon to state what he had to say. It might have
benefited some who array religious teaching in much state,
to have seen this simple-hearted wood-cutter stand forth in
his worn, leathern jacket and trowsers, and significantly
scratching his head, inform the Hottentot church, through
the medium of an interpreter, how the Lord, through his
medium, had awakened Daman and his people, to a desire
for further religious instruction. Here, Christianity, un-
shackled by state patronage, appeared in simple garb, among
warm-hearted advocates. The deliberation on several of these
interesting cases was necessarily postponed. — On Macomo
being informed of the probability of teachers being sent to
these parties, he said, he was glad of it ; for then they would
have a home, which none of them could be said to have till
settled Vv'ith a teacher. Macomo is certainly an enlightened
man, though not pious ; yet he respects true piety ; he can
also make allowance for the prejudices of Missionaries, which
he has frequently observed. It is worthy of remark, that
almost every Missionary we met with entertained a favour-
able opinion of the people among whom he was labouring ;
but very few were clear of strong prejudice against those who
were distant from them.
All the parties who applied for religious teachers were
1839.] CAPE COLONY. 319"
afterwards supplied with them ; endeavours were also used to
promote their settlement, and the education of their children.
A portion of the money subscribed by Friends, for the pro-
motion of agriculture among the Native Inhabitants of South-
ern Africa, was also applied for their use. The following
extract from a letter from James Read, dated *^ June 15th,
1843," acknowledging the receipt of this benefaction, and
giving some account of the Bushman Mission, and of the
state of society in this part of the country, will no doubt be
read with interest.
'' I had the pleasure of receiving your kind letter of Octo-
ber last. A thousand thanks for the thirty pounds, for get-
ting out the water at Nallagalla, in Tambookie-land, from the
Zwarte Kei River. I think I informed you that the Native
Teacher, Matroos Jones, had worked very hard at a dam,
and that the Tambookies assisted him : this is an advance in
civilization. But I am sorry to say, the floods of last year have
done great mischief, and the dam will have to be made higher
up the river. The Chief, Mapassa, is so much pleased with
the prospect of getting out the water at NaUagalla, that he
has requested me to go and look out for him, where the water
can be got out near his place. I hope the thirty pounds will
not only help us with the water at Nallagalla, but also to get
tools for getting out the water at the Bushman Station, and
the other Tambookie Station, where my son Joseph is. — Our
work with the Bushmen has met with considerable opposi-
tion. It has been, and still is threatened with utter ruin, if
Providence do not interfere. The Station has been attacked
by a tribe of Amapondas, that came from the sea-side and
settled there. Some Fingoes came also and settled upon the
Station. The Amapondas fell upon them in the night, set
fire to their houses, while the poor people were asleep, and
if it had not been for the interference of a Fingo Chief, all
would have been burnt, or stabbed. Ever since that time,
the Station has been surrounded, and the people have had to
keep watch night and day, and both Fingoes and Bushmen
are in a state of starvation. Our . people at the Kat River
have collected for them about two loads of Indian and Caffer
Corn, which will be a temporary supply. The harvest was
320 PHiLiPTON. [5th mo.
nearly a failure^ on account of the Locusts ; and being sur-
rounded by the enemy, the people could not get out to hunt ;
being thus shut up, the cattle that some of the people had,
have either died or been slaughtered, so that all now are re-
duced to a state of hunger and misery."
"The Fingo Chief above-mentioned was sent for in a
friendly manner, from the Bushman Station, by Umtihaha,
the head Chief of the Tambookies, and murdered in cold
blood." — "As no human aid can be obtained to check these
proceedings, we must look to the Lord. If the work be of
God, they will not be able to overthrow it. If it be not, it
is proper that it should come to nothing." " Under all this
the work of God has gone on, and we have admitted into the
church, by baptism, five Bushmen and Bushwomen, and there
are several inquirers and candidates for baptism. The chil-
dren also are making pleasing progress in the school, and we
have every prospect of success, if we could but have peace
in the country.^'
An expostulation by the Lieutenant Governor of the East-
ern Province, would probably have put a stop to the outrages
complained of, but my correspondent does not mention any
such expostulation having been made ; notwithstanding that
the country had been officially recognized as belonging to the
Bushmen.
7th. A temperance meeting, on the total abstinence prin-
ciple, was numerously attended this morning. About 680
signatures had been attached to the total abstinence pledge
at the Kat River. Striking speeches were made by several
individuals ; and the disposition to pay Hottentots in spirits,
or if they refused to accept this payment, to send them away
unpaid, was freely commented upon, by some who had suf-
fered from it, both in Grahams Town and at Uitenhage. It
is indeed cause for thankfulness that these practices have
received a death-blow. The Tambookie and Fingo Chiefs
mentioned yesterday, were present at this meeting, and seemed
interested, though they probably understood little more than
its general object. The former, with his wife and sister, was
to-day, for the first time, in a house of European structure,
namely that of James Read. This, though a very humble
1839.] CAPE COLONY. 321
white-washed cottage, was regarded with wonder and admira-
tion. But though they saw many things that attracted their
notice, they only asked for rehgious instruction.
The letter from James Read, referred to in the preceeding
pages, notices an encouraging reception of Christianity among
the Fingoes, at the Kat River. Sixty of these people had
been united to the church at Philipton, and many more
were in a hopeful state ; about forty couples had been mar-
ried; polygamy had been given up by those who became
Christian converts, and in several instances, by mutual con-
sent ; they were very diligent in learning to read ; the fol-
lowing incident copied from this letter may be taken as a
specimen of their simplicity. "Rather a singular case oc-
cured with a Fingo woman who was married to-day ; just
after she was baptized, she had been attending one of our
meetings, and in going home, she trod upon a serpent, which
bit her in the leg. She kicked it away, saying " Get away Satan !
you have nothing to do with me now, you are too late, you
may get my body, you cannot get my soul; Jesus has that."
I went to see her the next day; the leg was dreadfully swollen,
and we did not expect her to live ; I asked her if she was not
afraid to die ; she said, " No, I go so much the sooner to
Jesus Christ." She got better however, and I asked her one
day, if she was not glad that she was better, she said, " I not
know, if I had died, I go to Jesus and sin no more ; perhaps
now I live, I sin again."
9th. In the forenoon our oxen were again yoked; the wagon
had been standing at Philipton four months. In the course
of this time, many of the cattle had had a kind of periodical
sickness, caused by the rain and the freshness of the grass;
so that, had we been dependent solely upon them, we could not
have prosecuted our journey without unpleasant delays. Two
oxen had died ; and after arriving here, those brought from Cape
Town were nearly three months before they began to gather
flesh ; they were now in good condition. — We parted from
the Reads under a solemn sense of the divine presence and
blessing, and took an interesting leave of the Hottentots,
several of whom were in tears. They are an affectionate,
simple-hearted people. Our herdsman and some of his
X
322 BLiNKWATER. [5th mo.
acquaintance fired mutual salutes, as he departed with the loose
cattle, and the school children " brought us forth with sing-
ing." We made a few calls at Fort Armstrong, while the
blacksmith repaired our drag-shoe, which sustained an injury
in comino- down one of the many stony hills upon this road.
Pursuing the path about twelve miles, we outspanned early,
in order to allow the cattle to feed, and to arrange several
Httle matters which required attention in the wagon. The
starting of a wagon in this country, resembles the saihng of a
ship, in which many things require a little arrangement after
leaving port ; we narrowly escaped upsetting, in descending a
hill, where the rain had washed a deep fissure.
10th. The excitement of yesterday and the restlessness
of the oxen, which were necessarily made fast to the wagon
during the night, to prevent their returning to Philipton,
prevented our obtaining much sleep. We started early in
the morning, and journeyed among the bushy hills, where
birds were singing, doves cooing, and grasshoppers or crickets
chirping, abundantly; we arrived early at the Blinkwater,
where we met James Read senior, who had gone thither be-
fore us, to superintend the building of the house for Henry
Calderwood. — While at the Kat River, we engaged, as one of
our attendants, a pious Bechuana youth, named Boesak, who
was stolen from his parents by the Bergenaars, a horde of
Griqua banditti, and was subsequently taken into the family
of a pious man of colour, named Preetorius, a Field- comet,
of Bushman and Hottentot extraction, who had eight children
of his own, and by whom he was treated as a son. — On greas-
ing our wagon at noon, one of the axles was found to be
cracked ; it was therefore concluded needful to remain here
till it should be replaced by another.
11th. The weather becoming wet, and the apparatus of
the smith, at this place, being out of doors, the repairs of
our wagon could not be proceeded with. — The Coloured
People were ploughing in two places in this neighbourhood.
Before the introduction of Christianity into Caifraria the
wives of the CafFers cultivated the ground, the men disdain-
ing such toil. On the introduction of ploughs, the men made
comparisons between the quantity of work performed by
1839.] CAPE COLONY. 323
them and by the women. A chief named Thopo, who received
a plough from the contribution made by many Friends, for
the promotion of agriculture among the native tribes, sent a
message in 1842, acknowledging gratefully the present, which
he called " a strong wife."
12th. We were at three solemn, crowded meetings in a
small wattle-and-dab hut ; several pious people were present.
In two of them we had much to communicate : J. Read in-
terpreted into Dutch, and another person into CaJfFer. A few
CafFers came from other kraals, notwithstanding the weather
was cold and wet. The huts at this place had, with a few ex-
ceptions, erect walls, thatched roofs, and reeded doors. The
proprietor of the one in which we found accommodation, had
made himself a wooden sofa, table, stools, and other articles
of furniture.
13th. Yesterday morning was frosty : up to the 10th it
was very warm ; but winter now commenced. — In the even-
ing a few people assembled, to whom I read a portion of
Scripture in Dutch, and made a few comments in the same
language. My knowledge of the Dutch was small, but I felt
it necessary to begin to speak in it.
14th. Some of the people again assembled this evening,
and I again read, and made a few remarks to them, in Dutch.
In the course of the day, I had an interesting interview with
several, matronly, Christian women of the Nooka family, of
Gona CafFers. Their nephew had been our guide in CafFra-
ria, and we had proposed that he should accompany us beyond
the Great Orange River. They took the subject under grave
consideration, and notwithstanding their wiUingness to do
anything in their power to promote the cause of the Re-
deemer, they came to the conclusion, that it was not their
duty to give him up for this service. Their deliberation re-
minded me much of the manner in which questions of im-
portance are treated in the meetings for discipline of the
Society of Friends ; and I have no doubt but they were en-
abled to come to a right judgment in the matter. The manner
in which they expressed their sympathy for my companion
and myself, and their belief that the Lord would provide for
us, was both affecting and comforting.
x2
324 CAPE COLONY. [5th mo.
15th. This morning an old Caffer Interpreter, Jantje or
Hans Nooka, informed us, that some of the neighbouring
CafFers had come to see if we would not hold another meet-
ing with them, before leaving this neighbourhood. On con-
sidering the subject, we did not feel easy to refuse doing so.
As we sat with them in silence, we were sensible of a sweet
feehng of divine overshadowing. We were enabled to convey-
to them the expression of continued Christian interest, by
reading portions of Scripture, and making a few comments
between the passages, in Dutch : Hans Nooka having a prac-
tical knowledge of the Gospel, interpreted very satisfactorily
into Cafier. The old man had the matter so much at heart,
that he quickly caught the idea intended to be conveyed, and
was able to make up all our deficiencies. It was striking to
see the lofty spirited Caffers melted to tears, under this simple
preaching of the Gospel, or rather under the accompanying
influence of the Holy Spirit.
CHAPTER XXII.
Departure from the Kat River. — Grassy Land. — Kunap Post. — Cold and Snow. —
The Springbok. — Ant Hills. — Aloe. — Emigrant Boors. — Glen Avon. — Somer-
set. — Rain. — Measles. — Dr. Gill. — Hydrophobia. — Hyenas. — Jail. — Lepers. —
Lions. — Devotional Readings. — Clearing Fords. — Implements. — Heavy Rain.
— Leopard. — Country. — Birds. — Karroo. — Cradock. — Smith's Work. — Hotten-
tots. — Meeting. — Straying Oxen. — Intemperance. — Country. — Nacht-maal. —
Emigration. — Bitter Melon. — Opuntia. — State of the Dutch Colonists. — Great
Fish River. — -Thoughtful Dutchman. — Biassed Mother. — Grotesque Hills. —
Game. — Groote Fontein. — "Want of Education. — Massonia. — The Gnu. — Os-
triches.— The Quagga.— Thalictrum.— The Blesbok.— The Black-footed Cat.
— Lion Shooter. — The Meer Kat. — Colesberg. — Claims of Aborigines. — Bush-
man Mission. — Teaching the Hottentots. — British Population. — Freed Appren-
tices. — Intemperance. — Town and Trade. — Prison. — Freedom. — Man Shot by
a Boor. — Banks of the Nu Gariep. — Country.
5th mo. 15th. The repairs of our wagon being completed,
we finally left the CafFer Frontier, and the Kat River dis-
trict, and proceeded on the way toward Somerset, as far as
the property of an Englishman named Blakeway.
16th. We breakfasted with the large family of the Blake-
ways ; they like many other settlers in these regions, were
living under considerable privations in regard to society. No
other English family resided near them, and all their ser-
vants were Gonas. Their estate is beautifully situated at the
foot of a partially- wooded range of hills ; but in dry seasons it
is short of water. Their house was burnt and much of their
property w^as destroyed in the Caffer war. At noon we out-
spanned at the Old Gola Post, one of the many military
stations on the Frontier, now vacated. Rain came on in the
afternoon, with excessive cold, and the road became so slip-
pery, that it was with difficulty we reached the Old Kunap
Post ; this place was now occupied by two Dutchmen, who
were very civil, and with whom, after getting our people
X 3
326 GREAT FISH RIVER. [5th mO.
settled in one of the uninhabited houses, we had much con-
versation ; they had lost their property by the CafFers in the
war, and they now had a great inclination to emigrate to Natal.
17th. The country we traversed was undulating and grassy,
with a range of mountains about 1,300 feet high to the north;
on these there was snow this morning ; and notwithstanding
that the sun was bright, the wind was so cold as to render
thick, woollen clothes necessary.
18th. We passed the extremity of Glen Linden, the val-
ley in which the family of Pringles were settled, and travelled
over an elevated, grassy country, on which several small
herds of Springboks were feeding. The hillocks of White
Ants were so numerous as to resemble haycocks, from 2 to
10 yards apart. This is quite a common feature in many
parts of South Africa. — The Springbok, Gazella Euchore, is
an elegant animal of the Antelope family. It is about the
size of the Fallow Deer. The head and face are white, re-
sembling those of a lamb, but having a dark streak from the
back of the horns, through the eyes, to the nose. The ears
are long, attenuated and whitish ; the eyes expressive. The
horns are black, lyrate and robust, with about twenty com-
plete, elevated rings at the base. The back and sides are of
a yellowish fawn colour, margined with a broad band of ches-
nut on the flanks ; the belly, throat, folds on the croup, and
insides of the legs are white ; a band of chesnut borders two
remarkable folds of white on the croup ; these the animal has
the power of displaying, as a large white patch. The tail is
eight inches long, and white with a tuft of black hairs. The
female is smaller and has very slender horns. — On descending
to the Great Fish River, the country became poorer and more
bushy, and continued so to Somerset. Near one part of the
road, an Aloe with a tall trunk, Aloeferox ? formed a splendid
object ; its flower stems were from 3 to 4 feet high, some of
them with one or two upright branches ; the blossoms were
tubular, and shaded with red, orange and yellow; they clothed
the stems from the base, so as to form spikes the thickness
of a man's arm. This plant is represented in the etching at
page 293, along with Testudinaria Eliphantipes, Hottentot's-
bread, found on the karroo about Uitenhage, PJmenix reclinata,
1839.] CAPE COLONY. 327
the Little Date of the valleys of Albany, Euphorbia meloformis,
the Melon-formed Euphorbia, and Euphorbia hep)tagona,
one of the Morsdoorns, from the vicinity of Uitenhage ; Aloe
arborescens, the Tree Aloe, and Acacia giraffe, the Kameel
Doorn^ of Namaqua Land.
We saw nine wagons pass up the west side of the
Fish River, belonging to Boors, who were emigrating to
beyond the borders of the Colony. Many of them con-
tinued to journey to the Natal country, notwithstanding
the miserable condition of numbers who were there, who had
once possessed a good share of temporal comforts within the
Colony. Some of their children were reported to be in a
naked condition, like those of the coloured people. One of
the Natal emigrants writing to one of his friends in Albany,
said, " I am no Boor now, I have not an ox. " Yet one of
the Colonial Journals continued to speak of the situation of
these people, as one of no formidable discouragement, and of
their difficulties, as probably not greater than those encoun-
tered by the first settlers in Albany. In this journal and
some others, flattering letters from Natal were published,
which appeared to be written by parties who had already
emigrated, with a view of encouraging others to join them,
in order to increase their power against the Zoolu Chief,
Dingaan. There seemed reason to believe that there were
in the Colony, parties who encouraged the emigration of the
Dutch, with a view of obtaining possession of some of their
estates, at an easy rate. — In the evening we met a kind re-
ception at Glen Avon, the residence of Robert Hart, an
opulent settler, one of whose family married one of the Prin-
gles, and another of whom is the wife of Charles L. Stretch,
of Block Drift, in CafFraria.
19th. Accompanied by Robert Hart and some of his
family, we rode into Somerset, a village-like town, at the foot
of a low range of mountains, distant about three miles from
Glen Avon ; here we were introduced to George Morgan,
a pious minister of the Reformed Dutch Church, who gave
us the opportunity of discharging a burden of Christian love
toward the Dutch and English population, himself acting as
interpreter.
328 SOMERSET. [5th mo.
20th. Heavy rain prevented our going to Somerset, where
we had intended to hold a temperance meeting. It is in
vain to attempt collecting people in rainy weather in Africa ;
they are not clad so as to be able to avoid being wet to the
skin, and the roads being generally mere tracks, they soon
become impassable. The measles were now prevalent here.
Tliey had been unknown in the Colony, since 1806, when
they were very fatal.
22nd. Yesterday heavy rain confined us to the house;
to-day the weather was fine, but cool. We went to Somerset
with George Morgan and a medical man named Gill, and
attended a temperance meeting. Intemperance was very
prevalent here. There were four canteens in the little town
of Somerset. — Dr. Gill expressed a care for us, in the part
of our journey yet in prospect, not, he said, from our fellow-
men, but from wild beasts ; these he knew were numerous,
and often troublesome in some of the districts we purposed
visiting : formerly he travelled much himself, being employed
to collect plants, and once his wagon was destroyed by ele-
phants, and another time by fire. — Although the weather is
extremely hot in summer, in South Africa, the only cases of
hydrophobia I heard of in the country, occurred at Glen
Avon. A dog first became affected, and it bit a coloured
man who died of the disease. — Hyenas were numerous here ;
they were sufi'ered to prowl about the outside of the fence
of the premises, where they cleared off dead sheep and other
ofFal.
23rd. We went over the jail at Somerset. It was origi-
nally built for wagon-sheds. The yard was large, but the
walls were not sufficiently high for security. About eight
cells, capable of holding four persons in each, occupied one
end of the yard, and the houses of the jailor and constables
the other. The kitchen and other offices were along one
side. There was also a small court, with a room, on the left,
on entering : in this place, thirteen miserable lepers, just ar-
rived from GraafF Reinet, were lying on the floor, on sheep-
skin blankets ; these poor creatures were on their way to a
new institution for lepers, near Port Elizabeth. A large num-
ber of prisoners were removed to Grahams Town in the
1839.] CAPE COLONY. 329
beginning of the week. Three Hottentots and a CafFer were
under sentence of death for cattle-stealing : one of them was
an aggravated case. Executions by the course of law, for this
offence, had not been usual in this Colony; and it seemed pro-
bable, that if they were carried into effect in these cases, the
number of murders would be increased by the greater fear of the
consequences of detection. The prisoners slept on the floor,
upon blankets; each of them had also a blanket as a coverlet. In
the cell occupied by the condemned, there was a line of stocks
from one end to the other, which were in use. The rations of
the prisoners were, meat lib. bread l^lb. rice 2oz. except when
sentenced to Rice-water, which is a common punishment, for
a few days, under magisterial sentence, in this Colony. One
of the constables here was a Caffer, the rest were Hottentots.
This place was far from being well arranged, or well adapted
for a prison, but it was clean.
24th. After being amply supplied with Oranges and Lem-
ons, out of the extensive orchard of our kind host, whose
house was the best we saw in this part of Africa, and had a
good vineyard attached to it, we took leave of him and his
family, and returned toward the Great Fish River. — Robert
Hart informed us, that, in his earlier days, he had much
riding in this part of the country ; he usually went alone,
regarding the tales he heard of people meeting with Lions
and other dangers, as of small account, never having fallen
in with any himseK. But in passing, early one morning,
through the bushy country over which we travelled to-day,
he cracked his whip, and a number of Hyenas started up
near him. This occasioned him to look around, and he per-
ceived two Lions on the carcase of a Quagga; these he passed
at a respectful distance, concluding that the Hyenas were
waiting for the leavings of the Lions. From this time he was
of the mind, that it was safest not to travel alone in this
country.
25th. We turned along the vale of the Great Fish River,
to a ford, on the way to Cradock ; but the water proving too
high to allow us to cross without risk, we outspanned, con-
cluding to wait for its faUing. Jackals were very noisy in
the evening.
330 GREAT FISH RIVER. [5th mO.
26th. We spent some time in devotional reading with our
men. Our herdsman was necessarily out with the cattle,
except at meal-times, and after dark ; we therefore generally
had a reading in the evening. As our oil had now become
so thick from the cold, as to make a lamp require trimming
about every fifteen minutes, we usually read by fire-Ught.
27th. The river having fallen sufficiently to admit of our
crossing, we dug away the sand that had washed into the
ascent from the ford, and filled up a part with boughs and
stones that had been washed away. For exigencies of this
kind, we were provided with two spades and a pick-axe. The
spades, with several other things were contrived to fasten
under the floor of the wagon; the pick-axe was carried inside,
the handle being made removable. Two hours sufficed to
clear the ascent from the ford ; we then proceeded on our
journey, crossing some poor, flat country, before entering a
sterile, stony mountain-pass. The rocks were argillaceous
sandstone, and in some places, limestone. We passed a few
farms, on the edge of the Tarka, at two of which, there were
large, mixed flocks, of Cape and Merino Sheep, and Goats ;
the Goats often place their feet against the Doornbooms and
browse among the branches. Rain came on in the afternoon,
with thunder and very cold wind. Water was scarce after
we left the Fish River. We observed some in the evening,
in little pools, in the bed of a rivulet, which in a few hours,
became a roaring torrent. The rain was so heavy, that it
was difficult to kindle a fire with the assistance of an oily
paper; and the kettle and an iron pot, were necessarily placed
upon it, to prevent the rain from extinguishing it, before a
little coffee could be prepared, to expel the present sense of
cold. Our Hottentot and Bechuana took shelter for the
night under the wagon, where they managed to keep them-
selves dry, and we took the driver inside. A Hyena answered
the bleating of the sheep at a neighbouring kraal, and a Leo-
pard growled near us in the night.
28th. The weather became clear about midnight ; and the
torrent-brook had nearly ceased to run before morning. Be-
fore eleven o^clock, the horses and cattle were brought up,
being traced by the spoor, or footmarks, which were not quite
1839.] CAPE COLONY. 331
effaced by the rain. In the mean time, we had some con-
versation with a young Dutchman, residing close by, re-
specting the treatment of the Measles, under which his wife
was suffering; this made way for giving him a few tracts.
About noon we resumed our journey. We passed between
two ranges of argillaceous mountains, interrupted by stony,
basaltic hills, most of which had flat tops, or straight ridges ;
in some directions, they had the appearance of pyramids.
A few large flocks of sheep were feeding on the hills, and
we saw some Cranes, Bustards and Vultures. These birds
were seen almost every day ; the two former in small num-
bers, and the latter in larger quantities. Crows, Pigeons,
Namaqua-partridges, and a variety of small birds, were also
frequently seen, especially near the rivers. The Crows came
to pick up scraps, as soon as the wagon moved from its
place. We had to cut open the road to another ford of the
Great Fish River that had become choked with mud and
sand. This being effected, we passed into a still more sterile
country, regular karroo, of bare earth, besprinkled with Mes-
embryanthemums and other little bushy plants. When we
outspanned, our horses and cattle took shelter among the
larger shrubs by the river-side ; they browsed on the saline
plants of the country. This we thought poor food for them,
but often after this time, we were glad when they could
obtain such forage.
29th. The country over which we travelled was dreary :
two or three houses which we passed, were uninhabited, but
we saw at a distance, as many occupied farms, on the banks
of the Great Fish River, which we again crossed, but without
difficulty, the mud having been cut away by some other party.
We outspanned in the evening, at a place called, the Thorns,
near Cradock, where another wagon was standing, that be-
longed to a trader, who had been detained here many days,
all his people having taken the measles.
30th. We rode into Cradock, which is a small town of
two imperfect streets, bordered with apple, pear, almond and
mulberry-trees. The houses are white, and are chiefly of
two stories, in the old, Dutch style. We were kindly received
by the wife and family of John Taylor, the Minister of the
332 CRADOCK. [5th mo.
Dutch Church, he not being in town. A young medical man
kindly undertook to give notice for us, of a meeting to be
held with the inhabitants in the Government School-room.
Our next object was to get a little repair effected in the iron-
work of our wagon. Three of the smiths residing here, who
were also wagon-makers, were out of charcoal, which is uni-
versally used for smiths' fires in the interior of South Africa ;
they, therefore, could not help us ; the only man who could,
was an American, and his workman was gone to Somerset ;
but at length he found another, who effected what was neces-
sary with much labour, and in a very bungling manner.
The number of Hottentots in this neighbourhood was con-
siderable : many of them were employed as servants, but a
large number were living about the town, without any visible,
regular means of subsistence, in miserable huts, or half huts ;
the latter were open on one side, and were patched up of
sticks, reeds, skins and various other things. They are a
people who can live on very little, and while one has anything
left, he will share it with his neighbour. Canteens were
among the chief attractions of these people to this place, and
the inhabitants were deeply implicated in the production and
sale of spirituous liquors. Probably defective wages, and pay-
ments for labour in spirits, were among the chief causes of
defective industry on the part of the Hottentots. Their for-
lorn state induced the London Missionary Society, at a sub-
sequent period, to place a Missionary among them at Cradock.
At six o'clock, a few persons assembled in the school-house ;
in labouring with them, there was not much depth of feeling,
as regarded divine influence ; but following out a little
matter that was before my mind, it led to many Gospel
truths, and those of the most important character. After
the meeting we stepped into the house of the master of the
Government school, and had some conversation with a few
persons, on the importance of temperance. On returning to
the wagon, we learned that our oxen had strayed, and had
not been seen during the day. John Taylor's wife had told
us, that she hoped this would be the case, and that we should
not be able to leave till after First-day. We were wiUing to
stay if it appeared to be our duty to do so, but otherwise we
1839.] CAPE COLONY. 333
were desirous to be making progress with our journey, the
way being yet long before us.
31st. The oxen were not found. We concluded that this
might be permitted as a seasonable check upon attempting
to proceed too rapidly ; and not feeling quite clear of the
people of Cradock, in regard to the subject of temperance,
we collected such as could be got together, in the evening,
and brought the matter \mder their notice. The temperance
reformation could hardly be said to have reached this place.
The medical men advocated the use of a little spirits ; and
as is frequently the case in such instances, they used it
themselves to their own hurt. — The country around Cra-
dock is argillaceous, but interspersed with rough, basaltic
hillocks. It has a barren appearance, but there is said to be
plenty of grass on the mountains; and sheep and cattle thrive,
having an unlimited range. Farms are scattered remotely
over the district. 500 wagons are said sometimes to have
been in Cradock at the Nachtmaal, called " the sacrament of
the Lord's supper." Latterly, many Dutch famiUes have emi-
grated to the other side of the Orange River, and to Natal. —
Herds of antelopes, of various species, visit this part of the
Colony. The Springbok, especially, was now so numerous, that
some of the Boors fearedthe destruction of their crops. Spring-
boks were sold in the market, yesterday, at 13^d. each. A
round, poisonous, bitter melon, Citrullus amara, about five
inches in diameter, is abundant in this country; and an
Opuntia, bearing an edible fruit, is quite at home among the
rocks ; possibly it may be a naturalized plant, but it abounds
in this latitude for many miles westward.
6th mo. 1st. The oxen were found this morning by our
driver. They had strayed over several ranges of hills, and
there was the foot-print of a man in their track. It was said,
that cattle had been driven away from this neighbourhood,
apparently, with the hope that the search for them would be
given up, and that they might, in process of time, be entirely
driven off. So many oxen were feeding among the hills and
mountains, that it was more difficult to trace them here than
in most other places.
2nd. In the forenoon we read with our people and the
334 GREAT FISH RIVER. [6th HIO.
trader whose wagon was standing near ours. In the after-
noon we walked into Cradock, and dined with John Taylor
and family ; at two o'clock we met a congregation of Hot-
tentots, in the schoolroom, where a number of them usually
assembled as a sabbath-school. The school was suspended on
this occasion, and John Taylor interpreted for us ; as he did
also in a congregation, the chief part of which was English,
in his own place of worship, at three o'clock. The company
on both occasions was as large as might be expected, con-
sidering the sickly state of the town from the measles ; they
were fatal here in many cases ; many of the Hottentots did
not come to the school when they were well.
3rd. Several short thunder-showers fell in the night and
early in the morning, but the rain was not sufficient to pre-
vent travelling. In passing through Cradock, to take in
additional stores of meal, bread, oil, &c. we called upon
several of the inhabitants. A young man, an elder in the
Dutch Church, repaired some of our harness, and declined
accepting any payment for his work. — During our stay in
this neighbourhood, many opportunities occurred for the cir-
culation of tracts in English and Dutch. An open door
would be found among the Dutch Colonists, by a person ac-
quainted with their language, who would go amongst them in
the simple feeUng of Christian interest in their welfare. They
have a great esteem for the exteriors of rehgion, and a few
truly pious persons are to be found among them. They are
much to be felt for, having been brought up under the con-
taminating influences of a system of slavery, and with strong
prejudices against the coloured people; and living remote
from the observation of their fellow-men, many of them have
not had those restraints upon them, to which civilized society
is greatly indebted for much of its good order, especially
where Christian principle has not yet gained a place in the
heart. — A few years ago, before Somerset and Colesberg were
separated from Cradock, the circuit of its minister included
an area of 15,000 square miles, and 10,000 inhabitants. It
is now much more limited, though still widely spread, and
thinly inhabited. — On leaving the town, we again crossed the
Great Fish River ; after proceeding a few miles on the
1839.] CAPE COLONY. 335
Karroo country, we stopped for the night, near the house
of a person of Hottentot and Dutch descent.
4th. The person mentioned yesterday, supplied us with a
haunch of Springbok and some milk, but dechned accepting
a recompense in money ; he received a few tracts gratefully,
and with hospitable intention, his wife offered me a dram of
brandy, signifying, that it was the custom of the country to
take a Uttle in a morning. This led to some conversation on
temperance principles, and the benefits arising from total
abstinence from intoxicating liquors. — Our path to-day lay
along a series of plains, intervening between two ridges of
hills, with but little grass. The cattle of the settlers were
numerous ; large herds of Springboks were feeding upon
small sufFruticose plants, or bushy herbs, from one to three
feet high, which were thinly sprinkled over the otherwise
bare ground. Bustards, Cranes, Secretary-birds, and Vul-
tures, were numerous. — We passed a considerable farm near
the poortjie, or pass, of the Doom Boom Rivier, and out-
spanned at night on the Great Fish River, which we here
crossed the ninth time. Its course is through a clay-slate
country, and at this place, its bed is bluish, argillaceous rock,
in strata of considerable thickness.
5th. I had a long conversation with a thoughtful Dutch-
man, who gave me a copy of a brief memoir of two of his
daughters. His mother-in-law, who resided with him, spoke
of her numerous children, who, she said, had been trained in
the fear of God, One of them was at this time the com-
mander of the emigrant Boors at Natal. There was an ex-
pression of complacency, that I coidd not but regret, when
the poor woman spoke of her son, as being a great man among
his countrymen. How easily is the human mind buoyed
above the humility, which sees things in that point of view
in which they ought to be regarded, as all passing under
the eye of God, and being seen by him in their true light ;
the most secret motives being naked and opened unto the eyes
of Him with whom we have to do ! The Dutchman spoke much
of the fineness of the Natal country. This was not to be
wondered at, when the generally forbidding aspect of the wil-
derness in which he was living, was taken into account. But
336 KLINE BRAKKE RIVIER, [6th mO.
he had here, large and healthy flocks, and was outwardly
prosperous. I reminded him, that many people were rest-
less in their spirits, even when prosperous, for want of count-
ing their blessings, and cultivating thankfulness of heart, to
the Great Giver of every good and perfect gift.
Our journey to-day was still over poor country, with very
little grass. Among the bushy, saline herbage, a Salicornia-
like Mesembryanthemurrij a hoary Atriplex, and a small Statice
were prominent species. A trace of soda was conspicuous
on the surface of the ground in many bare places. Ranges of
grotesque hills, of large, ferruginous, basaltic stones, were of
frequent occurrence in this argillaceous country ; more lofty
hills, with flat tops, many of which were in the form of trun-
cated pyramids, surmounted by perpendicular cliffs, were cha-
racteristics of the geological formation. We made but little
progress during the day. In the evening, a Boor kindly in-
vited us to outspan near his house, and we supped and spent
the evening with him and his family. Previously, we called
on another, who was living on the premises of the former, in
a very humble cottage, with his wife and a numerous family
of rosy-faced children. Both families received a few tracts
and small books gratefully.
6th. We continued our travel over country similar to that
lately described, but with more extended plains, and having
short grass and rushes in some places. Herds of thousands
of Springboks were browsing in every direction, intermixed
with a few Gnus. The sight was very interesting, bringing
to mind the expressions, " The cattle on a thousand hills are
Thine. " Lions are here, in the mountains. A Boor, whose
house we passed, had lost three oxen by them within a few
weeks : they prey chiefly upon the game of the plains. Blue
Cranes were numerous, sometimes in considerable flocks.
Some species of Bustard were also plentiful. We passed
three farms, and at one of them, on the Kline Brakke Rivier,
saw a copy of our Dutch tract. The Way of Salvation by
Jesus Christ, which had been received from Cradock. We
now began to be able to make ourselves understood in broken
Dutch, which we found a privilege.
1839.] CAPE COLONY. ' 337
The Gnu, Catoblepas Gnu, is a remarkable animal, having
a resemblance to the Ox, the Horse and the Antelope. It
is about the size of a Scotch ox. It is called Wildebeest,
Wild-beast, by the Cape Colonists, on account of its ram-
pant movements. It stands looking at an approaching stran-
ger, then wheels about, kicking up its heels in a furious man-
ner, then gallops off to a short distance, and again stops to
survey the object of alarm, repeats the same movements, and
retreats a little further. It is less on the alert than the
Springboks, among which it often feeds ; but as soon as the
Springboks start at the approach of an object, the Gnus look
around for the danger. The Gnu is a muscular animal, of a
brown colour, with a full, vertical, whitish mane on the neck,
a bushy, black beard on the under jaw and throat, and a bush
of black hair between the fore legs, extending some distance
along the belly ; the tail is like that of a horse, and reaches
to the ground; the horns are dark and broad, they descend over
the sides of the skull, taper out sidewise over the eyes, and
turn up with a regular curve into pointed hooks.
7th. We only came at one habitation; it was named,
Groote Fontein, Great Fountain, and was near a large sheet
of water, which is a rare thing in this part of Africa. The
family residing here received us kindly, and we partook with
them of their mid-day meal, or dinner, between eleven and
twelve o'clock. They seemed interested on religious subjects,
especially the wife, who had diligently read, and carefully pre-
served, several tracts, given her by the Minister of Graaff Rei-
net. They complained of the want of a schoolmaster, and said
their children could not read. We pointed out to them how
much parents might do in teaching their children. Those of
another family upon which we called yesterday morning, could
read well. The country continued to be thickly stocked with
Springboks and little groups of Gnus. To-day, we first saw
some Ostriches ; a troop of five, walked quietly past us, at a
short distance. A Boor, who rode hard after some Gnus,
quickly despatched one, with his long gun. None of our com-
pany were dexterous enough to obtain provisions in this way,
and hitherto, we had always been able to procure sheep. — A
white, fragrant Massonia was in flower in sterile places, and a
Y
338 DISTRICT OF COLESBERG. [6th mO.
yellow, gentian-like plant, where water had stood, in rainy
weather. The species of Massonia have two large leaves
spreading flat upon the ground, and a cluster of flowers just
emerging above the surface, between them.
8th. In the morning we were detained by the straying of
the oxen, which had smelt grass at a considerable distance.
In the afternoon, we travelled about twelve miles, and passed
the houses of two Boors. At the first of these an Englishman
was attending the children as a schoolmaster : we gave him a
New Testament, a Huismoeder, and a few smaller books, for the
benefit of his charge. The country was more grassy, and the
wild animals were less numerous. Most of the Springboks had
gone from hence. They migrate in vast herds from one part
of the country to another. They were very numerous where
we slept last night, as were also Gnus. A troop of Quaggas,
with their foals, were near us at sunrise. In the course of
the day, we saw some large flocks of birds. Jackals, as usual,
were very noisy in the night. The weather was now gene-
rally clear, and the sun hot, but the wind very cold. — The
Quagga, Equus Quagga, is more robust than the Ass, to which
it is nearly allied : its general colour is reddish brown, but
the head, neck and the upper part of the body are irregularly
banded with dark brown stripes, which are lost behind the
shoulder : it has a broad, dark line along the back, and its
belly, legs and tail are nearly white.
9th. This being First-day, we remained in a mountain-
kloof, read with our men, and spent some time in silent retire-
ment before the Lord. Some of the oxen strayed far in search
of grass. In walking along the bed of a rivulet, which was
dry, except in one or two places, we noticed some foot-prints,
which we took to be those of a Leopard, and a Baboon. A
species of Thalictrum was growing in this place. The sight
of a plant which had congeners in England, excited emotions
something like those felt at the sight of an old friend.
10th. On some rough hills, over which we travelled in
the forenoon, there was a little grass among the low bushes.
We stopped early in the afternoon to allow the cattle to feed,
hoping this might make them less disposed to ramble.
Near our place of rest, there were some shallow pools, to
1839.]
CAPE COLONY.
339
which large flocks of Blue Cranes and some Wild Geese re-
sorted.
11th. The night was very cold : in the morning there was
thin ice on the pools. The cattle and horses had strayed,
probably to seek shelter from the wind. Our people started
after them at day-light, but they were not brought back
till noon. We travelled about thirteen miles, and on the
way, called at the house of a civil Boor, who had a large
garden, enclosed with a dry, stone wall, a kind of fence not
common in this country, in which fences, even to gardens,
are very uncommon : this man was also constructing a dam,
and thus advancing from the state of his forefathers, more rap-
idly than many. — The dogs killed a Black-footed Cat, Felis
nigripes; this animal is represented in the accompanying cut;
the colour light
jFelis nigripes, rije 13Iatfe=footeti ®at.
it was about the size of a Domestic Cat ;
grey with a brownish tinge, spotted and barred with greyish
black, and on the legs, with pure black ; the soles of the feet
were also black ; the whiskers white ; its tail was shorter than
that of the Domestic Cat, but scarcely so short as the tails
of the Servals. The species of felis are numerous in the
Cape country, from the Lion and Leopard down to several
small Cats. — We had some conversation with another Boor,
whom we overtook on horseback, as we entered a plain
abounding with Gnus, Springboks and Blesboks. The Bles-
bok, Gazella albifrons, called also the White-faced Antelope,
is upwards of 3^ feet high at the shoulder, and exceeds 6
The sides of the head and neck are
Y 2
feet in extreme length.
340 DISTRICT OF COLESBERG. [6th mO.
deep purple chocolate ; the back and shoulders hoary-bluish
white ; the flanks and loins brown. The horns are about a
foot long, white, thick at the base, and diverging, with about
a dozen imperfect rings, projecting in front. At the base of
the horns, there is a chocolate coloured patch, divided by a
white streak, which widens between the eyes to the whole
breadth of the face, down which it passes to the nose ; hence
the Dutch name, Blesbok, bles signifying a white patch. — We
outspanned in the evening near a house inhabited by a few,
friendly. People of Colour, who baked us some bread. One
of the women had been brought up at a missionary station,
and could read ; she and the other residing with her, were
industriously employed with their needles when we arrived ;
I thought the labour of the Missionaries had not been be-
stowed upon them in vain.
12th. The Coloured People seemed pleased with the no-
tice we took of them. Few White People condescend to take
them by the hand. There is a great profession of Christianity
in the Colony, both among the Dutch and English, but the pre-
cept, " Condescend to men of low estate," seems forgotten
by too many. It was a great satisfaction to us, to be able to
convey a few simple, Gospel truths, in Dutch, though in a
broken manner, both to the White and Coloured People;
Dutch is now almost as much the language of the Hottentot,
as of the White Man, in the Colony, and there are many
Hottentots who understand no other language. After roasting
some coffee, and killing a sheep, occupations such as must
be attended to, in travelling through the African wilderness,
we proceeded on the way toward Colesberg, calling at the
only farm we passed. At this place there was an interesting
family of Dutch people, who seemed to know something of
the nature of Christianity. From the remarks of one of the
females, it might be judged, that she was " not far from the
kingdom of heaven. " One of the men we met here, was
said to have shot about fifty lions, and nearly three-fifths of
the number when alone ; on one occasion, he killed a lion
and lioness at one shot. These formidable animals were re-
ported to be still far from uncommon in this vicinity, in-
habiting the rugged hills, on which there is rarely a tree to
1839.] CAPE COLONY. 34t
be seen, and but few small bushes. Here and there, among
the rocks, a stunted wild Olive, of arborescent growth, is to
be seen, or a strong bush of some species of Rhus, Sumach.
There are also Hares among the hills. A small Weasle-like
animal with a bushy tail, probably a species of Cynictis, known
in the Colony by the name of Meerkat, which is the Dutch
name for Monkey, lives in groups, burrowing on low, sandy
hills, generally where there are a few bushes ; it is often seen
basking in the sun, or standing on its hind legs, looking
around, especially if it suspect danger to be near.
13th. We passed over a plain, and through a defile among
the hills, in which there was a small stream of water. The
country was covered with short, dry grass, and was remark-
able for grotesque, little hills, of tumbled, basaltic stones, of
from 1 to 5 feet in diameter. The httle town of Colesberg
is situated among some of the largest of these hills, in a very
singular place, and near the foot of a loftier hill called Tover-
berg. On arriving at Colesberg, we received much kind at-
tention from Fleetwood Rawstorne, the Civil Commissioner,
a native of Yorkshire. Our letters were forwarded to the
care of a young man, who happened to be from home, and we
could not gain access to them. After outspanning the wagon
under one of the basaltic Kopys, as the little hills are
termed, we called on Thomas Reid, the minister of the
Dutch Church ; he, like many others holding this office, was
a Scotchman.
14th. We dined with the Civil Commissioner, and had
some interesting conversation with him, on the state of the
Aborigines remaining in this district of the Colony, especially
those of the Bushman race. Many of these people are in the
service of the Boors, by whom they are generally valued for
their fidelity, in taking care of their flocks and herds, and
among whom some of them have accumulated stock, by receiv-
ing in addition to their small wages and food, three or four
sheep, or a cow, once a year. These have increased, and in the
lapse of time, the property of some of the Bushmen has become
considerable. One of them, in the employment of one of the
Field-cornets of this district, whom he had served thirty years,
was said to possess sheep and cattle to the value of about
Y 3
342 COLESBERG. [6th mo.
£1,000. When a boy, he stabbed a horse that had offended
him, belonging to a former master ; of this sort of miscon-
duct, the Bushmen are said, often to have been guilty. His
master would have shot him, as some of the other Boors
admit, that, at that time, they would have done, as soon as
they would have shot a buck ; having, with their professed
regard for the Holy Scriptures, forgotten the commandments,
" Thou shalt do no murder ; " and " As ye would that men
should do to you, do ye even so to them," &c. The Bushboy fled
to his present master, who protected him. Subsequently,
his second master was attacked by a lion, which had thrown
him down ; the Bushman saw him in this perilous situation,
and with admirable presence of mind and devotedness,
having no fire-arms, or other formidable weapons, ran up to
the lion, and frightened him away, by lashing his karross in
its face. Some time afterwards, the master delivered the
Bushman from similar peril. A lion had thrown him down,
and was growling over him, when it was shot by his master.
There were at this time, in the district of Colesberg, many
little kraals of Bushmen, who were living where their sires
had lived from time immemorial ; but when a Colonist ob-
tained land from the Government, in a place so occupied,
it was measured to him, and these Aborigines were driven off!
They often went away very reluctantly, not at all understand-
ing the priority of claim thus given to strangers over their
own ancient possession. We subsequently directed the atten-
tion of the Colonial Government to the claims of these peo-
ple, and suggested, that common justice required, that before
making such cessions of land, it should be ascertained, if any
Aborigines were living upon it, and if any were found, that
the land should be measured and secured to them. It was
to us no cause of wonder that, when Bushmen were so treated,
they should often steal from the colonists, and that a feeling
of deep animosity should be engendered between them and
the intruders upon their rightful domains.
The history of Colesberg is peculiarly painful. The con-
cealment of facts, such as are involved in it, would be wrong;
for it is the disclosure of such circumstances that prevents a
recurrence. The concealment of oppression in the Colonies,
1839.] CAPE COLONY. 343
as well as in other places, has done much to perpetuate it.
The boundary of the Cape Colony was settled in 1830, ex-
tending to Plattenbergs Bakken, which is a little to the
south-west of Toverbergj near the foot of which Colesberg is
situated. Prior to this period, a missionary station was estab-
lished here, by the London Missionary Societ)'-, for the Bush-
men : it was called Grace Hill, and was superintended by a
person named Corner, who laboured there with some success.
But, as the Bushmen began to be a little civihzed, the Boors
began to come more into the country, and to fix themselves
at the various fountains. The Landrost of the neighbouring
district was at that time unfriendly to missions, and deter-
mined to have none within the range of his influence, which
extended in this direction : the Colonial Boundary was al-
tered, and Grace Hill was declared to be within the limits
of the Colony. The Reformed Dutch Church was recom-
mended to apply to the Government, for a grant of this pro-
perty, which, though so situated, in a stony kloof, that it
might have well been thought to be out of the reach of moles-
tation, happened to possess an enviable spring of water; that
church actually defiled its hands in this iniquity, and obtained
a grant of the property, amounting to 30,000 acres, from
which, to this day, it sells erfs, or town-allotments !
The missionary station was then removed to Hephzibah,
which is laid down on Arrowsmith's map, on a Uttle stream
near the south bank of the Orange River ; but from hence it
was ordered to be removed, in consequence of advantage
being taken of an answer of Corner, to a question artfully
put to him respecting the honesty of the Bushmen. It
was then removed across the Orange River to Philippo-
lis; to this place, some Griquas, who are of Hottentot or
Slave and Dutch descent, were also admitted, in hope that
they would protect the Bushmen. The Griquas however,
rather oppressed, than protected them, and consequently, the
Bushmen were removed to Bethulia. Here, they fell into hands
who mismanaged and misrepresented them ; the mission was
abandoned, and the place given over to the French Mission-
aries, who now have it as a Bechuana station. Though named
Bethulia, it still retains popularly the name of the Bushman
344 coLESBERG. [6th mp.
School, as if to prevent these untoward circumstances from
sinking into obhvion.
15th. Considerable jealousy still existed in Colesberg,
among the Dutch population, respecting the appropriation of
their place of worship. To their credit, however, they did not
object to the Coloured People assembling with them for pub-
lic worship. But when their minister attempted to collect
the Hottentots, and others of that class, daily, in this build-
ing, to instruct them, the Dutch would not suffer it. The
ignorance of some was such, that they denounced teaching
the Coloured People, as sinful, and said, it only made them
hypocrites, and disqualified them for service ; others even
denied that education was of any importance to Hottentots,
in regard to salvation ; and said, that the same light was not
necessary for them that was necessary for a White Man ; that
the coloured races were not to be saved as Christians, but as
Pagans. The minister, however, was not to be diverted from
his purpose or duty, respecting this neglected part of the
population : he told the Dutch, that if they would not suffer
him to teach the Coloured People in the " Kerk," they should
find him some other place ; to this they consented, and hired
a house for the purpose, till another, more suitable, should be
provided. — The London Missionary Society has since this
period fixed a Missionary at this place.
16th. We met a small congregation of English in the
forenoon, in the Civil Commissioner's Office, and laboured
according to the ability granted us, ^' to turn them from dark-
ness to light, and from the power of Satan to God." It was
lamentable to see how little practical Christianity existed
among the British population of this place. In the afternoon,
Thomas Reid went with us to the school for the Coloured
People, and interpreted our address to them. The number
was small, many being sick in the measles, from which those
assembled were only convalescent. The school had been sus-
pended for several weeks, in consequence of the prevalence
of this epidemic. The Coloured People procured the school-
furniture by subscription among themselves. The Clerk of
the Peace, at this place, informed us, that the liberated ap-
prentices of this district had conducted themselves remarkably
1839.] CAPE COLONY. 345
well; nevertheless, but few of them remained with their
old masters. Only two or three had come before judicial
courts since their emancipation. In the evening, we met a
considerable number of the Dutch in the Consistory-room,
and had an open opportunity of religious labour with them,
Thomas Reid again kindly interpreting.
17th. The day was variously occupied, and in the even-
ing, we had a temperance meeting. It was attended chiefly
by the English, who form about half the population of the
place. They are far from being universally temperate, not-
withstanding no canteens, or places for retailing spirituous
liquors, are allowed, on account of this being a frontier town.
Many of the people are mechanics, earning from four to six
shillings a day, a large part of which is spent in strong drink.
Boors, who make wine and brandy, are allowed to sell these
articles on their own premises, under certain regulations.
The town consists of three irregular streets of brick houses,
a large proportion of which are stores, or general shops, sup-
plying goods wholesale and retail. The trade with the inte-
rior, and with Boors in the surrounding district, is consider-
able. — A species of Huernia allied to Stapelia grows among
the tumbled rocks on one side of the town, along with a re-
markable Aloe.
18th. We purchased some additional stores. Bread was
exceedingly dear. A baker, who was also a butcher, asked
us Is. 8d. each, for brown loaves of about two pounds weight,
and meal was 75 s. per muid, of one hundred and eighty
pounds. Some Boors in this neighbourhood were so con-
scientious, that they would only take their old price of from
six to ten rix-doUars per muid, but others practised falsehood
in order to obtain as high a price as they could. — We visited
the prison in company with F. Rawstorne. It was formerly a
dwelling-house. The airing-yard might be eighteen feet square,
and a ward, in which thirteen prisoners were lodged, on the
ground floor, was about twelve feet. There was also a large
cell, occupied by a Dutch Afrikander, or man born in the Co-
lony, committed for horse-stealing ; two rooms were used by
constables, aborigines retained as evidences, and others : two
others were at present used for indigent, coloured people
346 GNUARIEP OR BLACK RIVER. [6th mO.
recovering from the measles ; one that was temporarily hired
for their reception, while suffering from that disease, had
been vacated. The place was far from being well adapted, or
secure, for a prison ; it was also untidy, and the jailor was a
drunkard. Tlie people slept on the floor on sheep-skin blan-
kets, and a long "block" of sleeping-stocks stood at the
door.
19th. Having obtained our letters, we again pursued our
journey, and on the way to the Gariep River, passed a vacant
farm. Many of the Boors had emigrated from this district.
Formerly, they dealt with the Hottentot and slave popiQa-
tion, according to their own pleasure. If those in their service
oflfended them, they either chastised them themselves, or sent
them with a note to the Field-cornet or the Landrost, stating
the offence, and requesting him to punish them, and this was
generally done accordingly. But now that both the Hotten-
tots, and those formerly slaves, are declared free British sub-
jects, if they be improperly treated by their masters, the
servants complain to the Magistrate, and the masters are fined,
but they cannot bring their minds to quiet submission to
such wholesome laws. No doubt but there are many ex-
ceptions to these things among the Boors; but the sentiment
of persons well acquainted with many who have emigrated,
is, that this change was one principal cause of their emigra-
tion.
In this part of the country, a Boor lately tied a Coloured
Man, who had attempted to escape from him, to the wheel of
his wagon, and in the presence of other Boors and Coloured
People, shot him, and said, he would treat any other of the
Coloured People who should attempt to run away, in the
same manner. A Field-cornet was sent with a warrant to
apprehend the Boor, the act having been committed within
the Frontier ; but the other Boors who were in association
with him, laughed at the Field-cornet, who returned without
the man. The Lieutenant Governor also sent to demand
him, but without success.
We passed two farms, which were occupied, before reaching
the Nu Gariep, Zwarte Rivier or Black River, which is the
main branch of the Great Orange River. We crossed this
1839.] CAPE COLONY. 347
river at Betas Drift, which is wide and shallow, and has a
pebbly bed and sandy margin. The banks are steep, and
support a few of the Weeping-willows of this country, which
line the banks of the Gariep with little interruption, for up-
wards of 1,000 miles. This species has ten stamens to each
blossom; from the place it occupies on the banks of the
Gariep, it has obtained the name of Salix Gariepiana. Before
sunset, we outspanned on the north bank of the river, having
left the Cape Colony and entered the Griqua country.
The country from Cradock to this place was destitute of
trees : shrubs were also unfrequent, except a trifoliate, narrow-
leaved Rhus, scattered on some of the stony hills, and a small
Lycium growing low and thick, like a Sloe-bush, on the flats.
The most common covering of the country was half-shrubby
plants, so far apart, that a person might walk between them in
any direction ; many of them were not a foot high ; they
might not unaptly be compared, in general aspect, to Santo-
Una ChamcEcyparissics the Lavender-cotton, of English gar-
dens.
CHAPTER XXIII.
Griquas. — Lion. — Philippolis. — Mat Huts. — Feuds. — Religious Meetings. — Sick-
ness. — Intemperance. — Improvidence. — Adam Kok. — Court and Revenue. — -
Cold. — Price of Stock. — Letting Fountains. — Dangerous Situation. — Bethulia.
— Paris Missonary Society. — Barolongs. — Huts. — Chief. — Slyk Spruit. — Boors.
— Country. — Beersheba. — Fraudulent Irishman. — Town. — Habitations. — Be-
chuanas. — Manufactures. — Wild Olive. — Caledon River. — Sowing Corn. — Grain
Crops. — Abandonment of Polygamy. — Treachery of Mylooza. — Expostulation
with Gacela. — Native Hospitality.— Jammerberg. — Native Village. — Drunken-
ness. — Ornaments. — Kraals. — Cultivation. — Morija. — Snow. — Goats. — Warm-
ing-house.
6th mo. 20th. Near the place where we outspanned, oi;i the
bank of the Zwarte Rivier, there was a little kraal of Griquas,
who are remotely descended from Hottentots or Slaves, by
Dutch fathers. This class of the spurious offspring of the
Dutch colonists were generally suffered to grow up in igno-
rance and barbarism, and to find their level among the people
to which their coloured mothers belonged. The Griquas are
a generation or two further removed from their white sires
than the Bastaards. Both were greatly neglected, till the
London Missionary Society began to care for them. Those
at this place had a few cows, but there was scarcely any herb-
age left upon the ground for their cattle to feed upon. Several
of the Griquas passed us on horseback, in the course of the
day. They had less of the aspect of poverty than many of
the Hottentots. — In the course of our journey, we noticed
several little kraals of mat, or rush-huts, at a short distance
from the road : the latter, we understood, belonged to some
Bechuanas.-^A young man dined with us, who had been visit-
ing his stock, and was returning to Colesberg. Like several
other persons of that place, he had cattle feeding to the
north of the Colonial Boundary, on the land of the people of
1839.] GRIQUA COUNTRY. 349
Philippolis, with whom the colonists made arrangements for
this purpose. This young man told us, that once, when travel-
ling in a different direction, he had just taken the saddle off
his horse, and turned him loose, and, before the horse had
gone twenty yards from the place, a Uon sprung upon it, and
made the poor beast his prey. — We outspanned early, to
afford our cattle time to feed on a grassy flat. They had not
had a sufficiency of good pasturage for many days. The
country over which we travelled to-day, was much like that
on the south side of the river, but the grass was not quite
so scarce. The road wound among rough basaltic hills, des-
titute of trees, except here and there an Olive, or a Rhus,
under 10 feet high. Hills of clayey sandstone occurred in
some places ; but the great geological formation of this part
of Africa is argillaceous. Game was not abundant: we
passed a few herds of tame cattle, and some flocks of sheep
and goats.
21st. We reached Philippolis, which is depicted in the
annexed etching. It consists of a single street of cottages,
a chapel, and a number of mat huts ; the latter are scattered
on a flat at one side of the village, on which are also, the
cattle kraals, and the foundation of a school-house. The
place is surrounded by remarkable hills of basalt. We met
a cordial reception from the Missionaries, Theophilus Atkin-
son and Gottlob Schriner, and from their wives, and became
the guests of Theophilus and Elizabeth Atkinson.
22nd. Many of the people here were at this time ill in the
measles, and several had died. Their huts were ill adapted
for sick persons : they were formed of a few arched sticks
stuck into the ground, so as to form a hemispherical frame-
work; over these, mats were spread, leaving a small entrance,
which, when occasion required, was also closed with a mat.
The mats were formed of rushes, strung side by side, so that
they neither excluded light nor air. When rain came on, it
beat into the huts, but the rushes soon swelled so as to ex-
clude the wet. Persons accustomed to these habitations, com-
plained of the closeness of houses. Mat huts are easily packed,
either on oxen or in wagons, the sticks being tied in bundles, and
the mats rolled together ; they therefore suit the convenience
350 PHiLiPPOLis. [6th mo.
of a people who have often to remove for the sake of
better pasturage, or in order to plough or sow at their differ-
ent fountains. Houses of a more substantial kind are too
costly for many of the Griquas, the timber needful in building
them, having to be brought from the woods between Klip
Plaat and the Kat River, distant about 200 miles. Timber
was worth from 5d. to 72^. per foot at Philippolis.
Many of the people here neglected to plough and sow this
year. They were generally indisposed to work ; and they al-
leged that they were afraid of being attacked by Abraham
Kok, who was formerly Captain or chief-ruler among the
Philippolis Griquas. He left the place, which is the capital
of the country, about two years ago, and refused to return ;
the people therefore elected his brother, Adam Kok, Captain
in his stead. Since that period, Abraham Kok, aided by a
relative named Cornelius Kok, from Campbellsdorp, near
Griqua-town, commenced hostile proceedings against the
Philippolis people ; these continued about six months, but
peace was at length restored by the mediation of Andries
Waterboer, the Christian Chief of Griqua-town.
At the time of our visit, there were sixty mat huts at Phi-
lippolis. The chapel which was of stone, was built in Dutch
style ; it stood at the head of the town, near a stony hillock.
The house of the Missionary, which was a very simple,
thatched one, and only divided to the height of the walls, was
of brick, and had a few trees behind it. The rest of the
houses were of mud, and many of them were so neglected,
as to be half unroofed. Many of the people living in mat
huts, were possessed of oxen and wagons.
At the close of the week, a considerable number of people
came to Philippolis from the country, to be present at the
assembhes for worship on the Sabbath. A meeting, for
devotional purposes, was held for the benefit of this class,
this evening, in usual course.
23rd. Theophilus Atkinson suspended part of his usual
Dutch service to-day, and made way for my companion and
myself to express our Christian interest on behalf of the peo-
ple; he also kindly acted as our interpreter. In the afternoon,
G. Schriner rehearsed much of what had been said in the
1839.] GRIQUA COUNTRY. 351
morning, and it was interpreted into Sichuana, for the
benefit of a considerable number of persons of the Bechuana
nation, who lived in the neighbourhood, and attended the
chapel. In the evening, nearly the same course was pursued
by T. Atkinson, but the interpretation was into Hottentot.
24th. The cold was severe in the night, and the mornings
and evenings were very chilly. Sickness following" the mea-
sles was very prevalent. A man died of inflammation of the
lungs this morning, and a child of convulsions in the course
of the day. Convulsions carry oiF many of the children, and
pulmonary diseases are very destructive among the older
people. In the evening, a meeting for the promotion of
temperance was held ; two of the people spoke much to the
purpose, and in a very Christian spirit. The temperance
cause formerly gained some ground here ; but it afterwards
fell into neglect, in consequence of the unfaithfulness of some
of the committee. Strong drink has made great ravages
among these people; it is still sometimes brought amongst
them, notwithstanding that it is interdicted by the Govern-
ment. The mischievous effects of the use of tobacco and
snufF, were also stated at this meeting. Even young children
are suifered, if not encouraged, to smoke and take snuff! The
people are almost universally improvident ; they are, there-
fore, unapt to calculate the privations to which they subject
themselves by spending their property in sensual gratifica-
tions. They live much one upon the means of another, so
long as their food lasts. Their bread being at this time con-
sumed, they were chiefly dependent on milk and flesh-meat;
and at this cold season, milk was far from plentiful. Many
of them were poorly clad, and they seemed to forget that the
money or sheep, with which they purchased tobacco, snuff,
and strong drink, would buy clothes and food. I ventured
to speak in broken Dutch, and was enabled to convey what
I wished, T. Atkinson often supplying me with a word.
25th. On the Bechuana interpreter and his wife returning
from the meeting last evening, they emptied their snuff-
canister into the fire, burnt their snuff-boxes, and then knelt
down, and prayed to the Lord for strength to deny themselves
of this sensual and wasteful indulgence. — In the course of
352 PHiLiPPOLis. [6th mo.
the forenoon we called on Adam Kok, who was from home
when we arrived : he was a young-looking man, of plain fea-
tures and middle size; he was dressed in a drab, duffle
jacket, bound and buttoned with black, and trousers that
were the worse for wear. His dwelling was a small thatched
cottage, built of clay, but far superior to the mat-huts of the
generality of the people. His court consisted of a secretary
and a council. The laws were but imperfectly formed, and
the revenue, which was derived from fines, was small.
26th. I visited the schools, which were smaller than usual,
in consequence of sickness. That for boys and girls was
conducted by G. Schriner, and was held in the chapel ; that
for infants, was managed by a coloured woman, brought up
at Bethelsdorp ; it was in a house formerly occupied by the
Missionary. The first of these schools had about ninety
pupils, and the last sixty.
27th. Snow fell last evening, and remained on the ground
till mid-day. We were much occupied in writing, which it
was difficult to eiFect from the cold. The houses were badly
constructed for warmth, and fuel was scarce. I walked a few
times, enveloped in a karross of Coney-fur, among the stony
hiUs, to acquire warmth.
28th. We prepared for our journey, having purchased three
fresh horses for ten guineas each. They are often sold to
traders for much less, in real value, goods being taken in
payment. A trader will obtain a cow for goods, of the
value of 13s. 6d. while a Missionary can scarcely buy one
for twice that sum. This seems to arise from the two-fold
cause, of the people not clearly understanding the relative
value of money and goods, and very generally, valuing their
own gratification more than the labours of the Missionaries ;
these had to be content to sow in faith, hoping that the Lord
of the harvest would, in process of time, give the increase.
The high price of horses was chiefly attributable to the fa-
cihty with which they could be sold to a neighbouring Basutu
Chief, for oxen ; six of which were sometimes given for a
horse.
29th. Accompanied by Gottlob Schriner, and attended by
the Bechuana interpreter, from Philippolis, and by our Basutu
1839.] BECHUANA COUNTRY. 353
servant, Boesak, we rode to Bethulia, a station of the Paris
Missionary Society, distant seven hours, or forty-two miles,
on horseback. On the way we passed several fountains or
springs, at the foot of remarkable basaltic hills, which rise in
all directions on the plains of this country. At these foun-
tains there were herds of cattle, and flocks of sheep and goats.
We called at two fountains occupied by Bastaards, who were
dwelling in cottages. At one of these we had purchased two
horses, which were now taken out of a herd of about 100 ; they
made up those of our company to fifteen, including five foals,
running by the mares, which were ridden, or led, by G. Schriner
and the interpreter. At some of the fountains, there were
only mat houses and wagons. Many of the Bastaards, under
the Philippolis Government, had let their fountains and land
to Boors from the Colony, for a term of years ; and the Boors
were becoming so much the stronger party in the country,
that it seemed doubtful if the Bastaards would ever be able
to get the land from them again.
The day was extremely cold, but very bright. In conse-
quence of unavoidable delays in the morning, it was after dark
before we arrived at Bethulia. When it was too dark for my
companions to discern the cause, or to mark the course I
took, my led horse pulled away from me, as I tried to brisken
his pace with my sambok, and the one on which I rode, be-
came frightened, and went off at a full gallop. My saddle
had turned, by my pulling at the other horse, which I was
obliged to let go ; I then had to clear myself of my stirrups,
in order to recover an erect posture on the back of my steed.
Twice he stumbled against stones, and was nearly down, but
I was preserved in calmness with my heart fixed on the Lord,
conscious of the uncertainty of life. At length I succeeded in
pulling up my horse, but I had been unable to pay any attention
to the direction in which he had carried me, and had lost my
companions. Hoping, however, that they might be within
hearing, I called out loudly, making the Australian cry, Cooey;
this was immediately recognised, and replied to from a dis-
tance, by G. W. Walker, and by repeatng it frequently on
both sides, I found the party again, who, as well as myself,
were thankful for my safety, for they had even feared that
z
354 BETHULiA.* [6th mo.
my abrupt departure might have been occasioned by the at-
tack of some wild beast. — On arriving at BethuHa, we found
the Missionary, J. P. PelUssier, very ill, but received a kind
and Christian welcome both from him and from Samuel Hol-
land, of Beersheba, who was casually here, and from both their
•^vives. — The Paris Missionary Society, or " Societe des Mis-
sions Evangeliques chez les Peuples non Chretiens, etablie a
Paris,^^ has sent out several protestant teachers, of great piety
and usefulness, to Southern Africa. They have several sta-
tions in this part of the country.
30th. Bethulia is near the Zwarte Rivier, and about four
miles and a half below its junction with the Caledon, which
is its principal tributary. The Settlement presented an in-
teresting aspect from one of the contiguous hills, which I as-
cended several times to acquire warmth. The mission-house
was a humble thatched dwelling, of brick. There were
also a few adjacent buildings, chiefly of clay, comprising a
chapel, school-house, and wagon-shed. These stood near a
streamlet issuing from a fountain, between two basaltic ridges,
and irrigating a strip of corn-land. At a right-angle with
these, and along the winding-foot of a ridge of tumbled ba-
salt, lay the habitations of the natives, who were of different
Bechuana tribes, but chiefly Barolongs. Their establishments
generally consisted of a low, circular, thatched hut, (Fig 1.)
and of two or three mat-huts for their servants, (Fig. 4.) within
a circular inclosure, of erect, dry sticks. A multitude of
these, some of them situated rather distantly among the hills,
with a few large circular cattle-kraals, of sticks or stone, in-
terspersed, formed this little city, of about 2,000 inhabitants.
At haK-past ten o'clock the bell rang, and about 200 per-
sons assembled in the chapel, which was formerly the dwell-
ing of an artisan ; it was scarcely capable of containing more
than the number assembled; the windows were without
glass, and a piercing, frosty wind rendered the place almost
untenable. The people, who are black, and somewhat of
negro features, sat on the floor ; they were clad in under
garments and karrosses of jackal and other skins, and some
of them had on caps of the same. Most of the women had
cotton handkerchiefs tied about their heads; a few had
1839.] BECHUANA COUNTRY. 355
cotton gowns. Some of the men wore jackets and trousers,
surmounted, at this cold season of the year, by karrosses,
which served well as cloaks. Samuel Rolland preached in
Sichuana, and afterwards interpreted for me. In the after-
noon, my dear companion had the opportunity of expressing
his Christian interest for the eternal welfare of the people.
Only a small part of the population of Bethuha attended pub-
lic worship : few of them were converted characters ; but the
others were brought within the range of a certain measure of
Christian influence that was beneficial.
7th mo. 1st. I visited some small settlements among the
hills. The people being of different tribes, had their dwell-
ings variously formed. Those of the Barolongs were circular,
and had upright sides plastered with clay, and thatched tops;
they were surrounded by a fence of dry sticks: Fig. 1. Some
of the others were conical, and others were hemispherical, with
a protruding neck : Fig. 2. Both of the latter were plastered
over with clay, and opened into circular enclosures of sticks,
reeds, or the cane-like stems of Caffer-corn. These enclosures
were neatly swept ; the people cooked their victuals in them,
and sat in them in the day-time. The doorways of their huts
were so low, that some of them could scarcely be entered on the
hands and knees. This precaution was adopted to keep out
beasts of prey. The doors were of rough wicker work. At
one of the huts, some people were eating sour milk out of a
cylindrical wooden vessel, with wooden spoons, of large size,
and a female was boiling a little meal and milk on a small fire
of wood, in an earthern vessel, for a child which she had at her
back. The people were all dressed in skins ; most of them
wore beads round their necks, and brass earrings in their ears y
some had also rings of brass around their arms. A few of
z 2
356 BEERSHEBA. [7th mo.
them could speak Dutch ; though my own knowledge of this
language was small, I conversed with some of them through
this medium. An old man, who observed some of the nu-
merous dogs barking at me, kindly accompanied me with a
stick to drive them off. The Chief of the Barolongs, at this
place, was named Lepui ; both he and his wife were mem-
bers of the church : his wife^s name was Makhoro, signifying
the mother of Khoro, Khoro being her son and eldest child.
The whole number of church members was, at this time,
fourteen ; nine others were in a hopeful state. The schools
were suspended on account of the measles. The usual at-
tendance was from sixty to seventy. Two Dutch traders,
from Uitenhage, were here with their wagons; they had been
travelling further into the interior, for about two months. — A
cyhndrical stemmed Euphorbia, with bright yellow blossoms,
was in flower, on the stony hills. The grass of the adjacent
plain was nearly all eaten up.
2nd. We rode about fifty-four miles to Beersheba. At
six miles from Bethulia, we passed a remarkable, conical
peak; and nine miles on our way, we crossed the Slyk Spruit,
Muddy Branch, a deep watercourse, passing through beds of
argillaceous rock, and forming pools, bordered with reeds.
Here we were joined by Samuel Rolland, who became our
guide. At one place, on the road, a Boor was ploughing.
These people often sojourn for a time in remote parts of this
country, and plough, or feed their cattle. We also passed
one of their encampments, consisting of a tent and four
wagons, and another of six wagons, belonging to an emigrat-
ing Boor. At one of the places where we rested, a Welshman,
who had married a Bechuana woman, was living in a poor,
roof-like hut of reeds, near a spring that issued from some
sandstone rocks, in a hollow. — The country over which we
travelled, was very similar in features to that from Philippolis
to Bethulia. Basaltic hills, of various elevation, up to about
500 feet, stand in all directions on grassy plains, or form
irregular ridges : clay-slate and clayey sandstone rarely
occur among them. The last prevails about Beersheba,
where also ruddle and pipeclay show themselves. — On arriv-
ing at Beersheba, we found a young Irishman, who tried
1839.] BECHUANA COUNTRY. 357
to pass himself off for English : he had come to claim a
night's lodging, and had impudently turned his horse into
the garden. He said he had been fighting for the Boors
against Dingaan, and told so many palpable lies as to destroy
all credit in what he said. This is too much the character of
many who travel toward Natal, English as well as Irish.
They are often a great annoyance to the Missionaries, who,
nevertheless, do not like to deny them a lodging, lest they
should have to sleep in the open field, especially at this cold
season of the year. We saw this man afterwards at Philip-
polis, where he was attempting to practice a fraud, and sub-
sequently found him in the jail at Cape Town, to which he
had been committed from Namaqualand, after imposing upon
people right across the country.
In the absence of Elizabeth RoUand, we were politely wel-
comed by Claris Maeder, the wife of Francis Maeder, the
artisan of the Beersheba station. Francis Maeder was a vol-
untary assistant in the schools, and occasionally in the devo-
tional exercises of the chapel : he was, at this time, in Cape
Town, superintending the printing of the Gospel according
to Luke and John, in the dialect of this part of the country.
The missionary station of Beersheba is represented in the
accompanying etching. The town is on the ascent of a rough
sandstone hill, near the bottom of which, the houses of the
Missionary and artisan, the infant-school-house, chapel, &c.
are situated. These, except the mission-house, were tem-
porary buildings of mud and thatch. The houses of the co-
loured people were progressively improving; the round or
oven-shaped huts, those composed of mats, and those which
were circular and had upright, plastered sides, and thatched
roofs, were giving way to what were called, in this country,
Hartebeest houses. The walls of the huts with upright sides,
are often double. Within the inner circle, they are much
occupied with tall baskets, plastered with clay, which are
used for storing corn. The Hartebeest houses, are so called
from an imaginary similarity in their figure, to the outline of
the species of buffalo, called in South Africa, the Hartebeest :
they are usually built of reeds, and are sometimes plastered
with mud ; they are in the form of roofs, but the lower part
z 3
358 BEERSHEBA. [7th mo.
of their sides often approaches toward perpendicular. Some
of them have holes in the roof to let out the smoke. They
are larger, and more commodious than the native huts. The
Hartebeest hut is represented at Fig. 5. The cattle-kraals
here have dry, stone-walls.
3rd. We walked over the settlement with Samuel Hol-
land and Gottlob Schriner, and observed with pleasure the
improvement of the people, who are about 1,000 in number,
chiefly of the Basutu tribe of Bechuanas. Here are also
a few families of Bastaards and freed-slaves. Eighty-eight
persons had been admitted members of the Church, three
of whom were suspended for misconduct ; there were also
140 inquirers or candidates. The usual attendance in the
schools was about 1 20, in that for infants ; forty, in that
for older children ; and 100, in that for adults, or sometimes
200. The older children were much occupied in herding,
and watching the gardens, &c.
The people were improving in their dress : formerly the
men wore only karrosses; to these, leathern trousers were now
universally added, or, in many instances, the karross was con-
verted into a large coat, with the fur inside. Many of the
women now wore cotton gowns, and tied handkerchiefs about
their heads ; and those who were still dressed in prepared
sheep-skins, were decently covered. Circumcision and poly-
gamy were nearly abandoned. — The Bechuanas are generally
much more industrious than the Bastaards or the Hottentots ;
they are also much more provident. Many of them preserve
a hoard of Caffer-corn in their houses. A large number of
the men were now from home purchasing seed-wheat, or
ploughing and sowing at different fountains. The people of
this station had about 5,000 horned cattle, and a much greater
1839.] BECHUANA COUNTRY. 359
number of sheep and goats. The cattle were divided into
groups, and kept at different places, through fear of the Gaf-
fers, who had sometimes made incursions even into this part
of the country. The Bechuana tribes have, in the present
day, the character of being a quiet, peaceable race, but the
CafFers cannot stand before them in close combat. The
weapons of the Bechuanas are a short stick, having a large
knob at one end, called a Keary, and a single assagai, both
of which they throw with dexterity ; but in fighting, they
often break the handle of the assagai short, and stab with it.
The CafFers generally take them by surprise. The Bechuanas
are, in many respects, a much more civilized people, than the
CafFers. The houses of the Bechuanas are usually very clean ;
they contain sundry vessels of clay, some of which are baked,
and serve well as cooking-pots. In the courts attached to their
houses, portions of small trees are fixed, having the branches
cut short; upon these they hang small milk-bags, made of skins,
and other utensils. (Fig. 3, p. 355.) Some of the people make
very neat baskets of rushes, which they work so as to exhibit
stripes. — A considerable quantity of land is irrigated at Beer-
sheba, from two springs, one of which is warm, and discharges
a large quantity of gas. Some of the Bastaards from this sta-
tion were gone to lead out the water of the Caledon, for irri-
gation, at a place not far distant. — The rocky kloofs of this
part of Africa produce sparingly, a species of Olive, Olea,
which sometimes attains to thirty feet in height, and is of con-
siderable girth ; its growth is slow ; its fruit, which is a small
plum, does not appear to have been converted to any use.
The tree is in request for fuel, and consequently, soon
disappears in the vicinity of settlements. — In the afternoon,
we held a meeting with the people, about 300 of whom
exclusive of children, attended public worship. They listened
to instruction with great quietness and attention, and there
was a good feeling among them. No public worship was
usually held among them on week-days, but daily classes met,
of about forty each, consisting of those who were inquirers,
and of those who had come decidedly under the influence of
Christian principle.
4th. Before breakfast, I walked to the Caledon, about a
360 CALEDON RIVER. [7th mO.
mile from Beersheba: it is a small, meandering stream,
connecting large pools, margined with reeds, and running in a
bed of about 15 feet wide, across grassy plains, among sand-
stone hills. In some places, there were willows upon its
banks. In a walk in the afternoon, I noticed the mode
of sowing wheat practised by the Basutu. They render
the earth moist by irrigation, scatter the wheat on the sur-
face, and bury it by hoeing up the soil. It was pleasing
to see the men and women labouring together at this work.
Their hoes were made of iron, and had a long spike behind,
by which they were fastened to the handle, the spike being
passed through a hole in one end of the handle, which was
left thicker than the other for this purpose ; in case of the
handle splitting, a strip of bullock's hide was used to secure
it. The wheat crops are harvested in the 12th mo. and Indian
corn is sown immediately after. The Bechuana or CafFer
Corn is sown at this time, and it ripens in the 5th or 6th mo.
Locusts are sometimes very destructive here.
The Bechuanas are thought to present traces of having pos-
sessed a greater degree of civilization than they now possess.
There seemed little of that sort of excitement among them,
which often proves temporary. Much care was taken not to ad-
mit the people prematurely into church-fellowship; the stand-
ard of morals among them had become much elevated. In the
abandonment of polygamy, the practice was, for the man to
take his superfluous wives to their parents, and to tell them,
that they must not be angry with him for returning them, as
he did so, only because he saw that having many wives was
contrary to the law of God ; he promised to allow them a
maintenance till they should marry, which they generally did
in a short time. The young children were allowed to remain
with their mothers, but when they grew up, they became the
property of their fathers. The purchasing of wives was nearly
abandoned.
During the Caffer war, a petty Chief of the Tslambie tribe,
named Mylooza, or Jalousa, fled from Caffraria, and was re-
ceived in peace by Moshesh, the Chief of this part of the
country. Mylooza was settled in the neighbourhood of Beer-
sheba, and he took the opportunity of cutting off straggling
1839.] BASUTU COUNTRY. 361
parties of Bechuanas, in the surrounding country. Reports
of this villanous and ungrateful conduct reached Moshesh ;
but at first, he would not credit them. At length Mylooza
fell upon a relative of Moshesh, and a considerable party of
trading men, many of whom were destroyed. Moshesh's rela-
tive was left for dead, but he recovered, and informed the
Chief of the circumstance. Moshesh was now convinced that
he had received a treacherous guest into his land : he came
therefore upon Mylooza suddenly, and cut him off with about
400 men, but the women and children were suffered to escape
to their own land. Among these was a young son of My-
looza, who lately stirred up his country people to revenge
themselves upon the Bechuanas. A short time before our
visit to Beersheba, Gacela, who was a relation of Mylooza,
joined by another Caffer Chief, under the pretext which these
circumstances afforded, made a descent upon the Bechuanas,
and carried off 1,500 head of cattle ; and some fears were
entertained by the Bechuanas of further hostilities. Under
these circumstances, we wrote to Charles L. Stretch, re-
questing him to use his influence, to prevent further mis-
chief. This he did, as Diplomatic Agent among the Gaika
CafFers, to which section the Chief who joined Gacela, be-
longed ; he also used his extensive moral influence in regard
to Gacela himself ; in order to strengthen this influence, when
sending to Gacela twenty-five pounds out of a sum entrusted
to us, for the promotion of agriculture among the CafFers, we
forwarded it by the hand of Charles L. Stretch, accompanied
by an expostulation with Gacela, against his wicked conduct.
5th. The straying of our horses prevented our departure
till noon. G. Schriner continued with us till we reached a ford
of the Caledon ; we then proceeded about twelve miles further,
under the conduct of Ka-i-le, the Headman of the Beersheba
Station, to a little kraal of his own people. Here we fixed
our position for the night, by the side of one of the native
huts, and under the wall of their goat-kraal, having a hill of
about 100 feet behind us, and a declivity of similar measure-
ment, to the Caledon, in front. In this position, we were
protected both from wind, and from the fog of the river. The
p eople made us a fire, and supplied us with sour milk and
362 JAMMERBERG. [7th mO.
Caffer-corn, boiled, of which we made a luxurious meal. The
latter requires to be boiled about two hours in fresh water :
its flavour is very agreeable, especially to hungry travellers.
6th. Though the temperature in the night was below
freezing, we were comfortably warm, notwithstanding we were
sleeping under the open canopy of heaven. We each wrapped
ourselves in a blanket, inside of a Bechuana karross ; under
these was spread a Mackintosh tarpawling. Having become
inured to hard beds, we got a fair share of sleep. At dawn
of day, we arose, remounted our steeds, which had been feed-
ing close by, and rode upwards of four hours to Jammerberg,
Grief Mountain, a place where a few famihes of Bastaards
resided. Here we off-saddled, and partook of the refresh-
ment provided by our kind friends at Beersheba. On the
way, we passed a herd of Hartebeests, another of Blesboks,
and two troops of Quaggas. We also saw some CafFer Cranes.
At Jammerberg there was a shed-like hut, used occasionally
as a chapel, in which Missionaries, travelling on this road,
sometimes slept and preached. The families residing here
were about fourteen. Having escaped from the oppression
of the Boors, these people sometimes used their own liberty
in an arbitrary manner. Lately, they made a trader fast to
his own wagon, and refused to liberate him till he had paid
six pounds for the trespass of his cattle on their gardens, a
damage for which twelve shillings would probably have com-
pensated. They had not the character of being provident ;
and strong drink was a great snare to many of them. They
dressed in European costume ; though, in some respects,
they were more civilized than the Bechuanas, they had a
conceit of superiority on account of their extraction, that ren-
dered them far from amiable.
On riding about two hours further, the mare that carried
Kaile became tired, and finding that we could not reach
Morija before dark, we made to a Bechuana kraal, on the
ascent of a flat-topped, sandstone mountain, and soUcited the
hospitality of the people for the night. Most of the men at
this place were seated on the ground, around a fire, drinking
beer, made from the meal of Caff'er-corn. They were half
intoxicated, and very noisy, but they civilly invited us to
1839.] BASUTU COUNTRY. 363
partake, handing us the ladle-like calabashes, which formed
their drinking vessels ; we, of course, declined partaking. On
the arrival of the Headman of the kraal, who was perfectly-
sober, he had us directed to a circular court, in front of a hut
that was filled with com, and had the door sealed up. This
was soon swept, and a fire was kindled ; he also sent us an
ample supply of Caffer-corn, and an earthen vessel to cook
it in, and others containing water.
A few of the people came in the evening, and conversed
with our attendants. One of them, who had been among the
Boors, brought a calabash of beer which he called Brandy-
wyn. Kaile drank a little with him, but Boesak refused, and
talked to the people about the things pertaining to salvation.
The people here were filthy in their attire, which consisted of
oxhide or sheep-skin karrosses. Most of them had earrings,
many of which were of copper-wire, rather stout, and resem-
bled spiral springs that had been drawn beyond their strength;
these reached almost to their shoulders. A few had also tat-
tooed lines around their eyes, and down the ridge of the
nose. The same kind of beer which these people drink, is
used among some of the more northern of the Coast CafFers,
even at missionary stations ; and in parts of Caflfraria where
corn is abundant, as well as here, intoxication, not learned
from Europeans, is very prevalent, and highly prejudicial to
the moral improvement of the people. The fence of tall
reeds, which encircled us this evening, afforded a good pro-
tection from the wind. Though seated on the luggage, and
some of the company on small stones, on which, or on small
pieces of wood, the Bechuanas generally sit, yet with this
shelter, the warmth of the fire, and an ample meal of boiled
Caffer-corn, and of mutton from Beersheba, we enjoyed a
greater measure of bodily comfort than we often had enjoyed
in other situations, at this season of the year ; we also felt
thankful, and peaceful in mind.
7th. We spent the night comfortably; in the morning
we presented our host with a knife and a handkerchief, and
gave a couple of small, brass buttons to each of the people
who came with him to take leave of us ; all these were re-
ceived with expressions of pleasure. There were several kraals
364
MORIJA.
[7th mo.
at a short distance from the one at which we slept. In
passing through one of them, the people made many inqui-
ries, as to who we were, and what was our ohject in visiting
their country. There was more land in cultivation in this
neighbourhood than we had seen for a long time past. The
elevation of the country is such, that the harvest of Caffer-
corn was only in progress, notwithstanding it was the depth
of winter. The rain increased as we approached Morija,
which is situated under a lofty range of hills, and near a re-
markable peak, called Thaba Tele. The settlement is repre-
sented in the accompanying cut.
_piorija, ^aris JBlissionarB Station.
It is, in what may properly be called the Basutu country ;
it consists of the mission premises, and two large kraals ; the
latter are situated on natural terraces, on the side of an adja-
cent mountain. There are also many smaller kraals in the
vicinity. The people here were suffering from the measles.
Thomas Arbousset, the Missionary, greeted us warmly, as
soon as he knew the nature of our visit. After changing our
wet clothes, and taking some refreshment, we repaired to the
chapel. The congregation consisted of only about forty per-
sons; when the weather was fine, and the people were free from
sickness, it sometimes amounted to about 600. We addressed
them through the medium of T. Arbousset. The people here
had formerly only about 600 cattle ; their present stock was
about 5,000. Many of the inhabitants of Morija could read ;
and some of them apprehended christian doctrine with great
1839.] BASUTU COUNTRY. 365
facility. The schools were at present suspended ; but when
the people were in health, and not too much occupied with
their corn-crops, a school was held daily by T. Arbousset ;
another was held twice a week by his wife, in which she
taught the women to sew.
8th. The day was very cold and snowy ; the wind drove
the snow into the chapel, so as to extinguish a fire that had
been lighted on a circle of clay, upon the floor, and around
which our people, with some others, had been sitting. On
leaving the chapel, they put our saddles on the sides of
the pulpit, that being the only dry place ; here some goats
took refuge, and they eat parts of several of the girths, and
did other damage that took us much time to repair. In
the evening, the weather being more moderate, we walked
through the two principal kraals or villages. They consisted
of numerous beehive huts, arranged in circles, and having
courts fenced with tall reeds: they contained together about 900
inhabitants. Many of the people were assembled round a fire
in one large hut, which was a sort of warming-house; like the
rest, it had a very low entrance. Neither these people, nor
others of the coloured races of Africa, can bear much cold. In
inclement weather, they crowd around a fire, and are little
disposed to go into the open air, even to give needful atten-
tion to their cattle. — One of the petty Chiefs of this place,
who had come under the influence of christian principle, on
a certain occasion, struck his wife, because she reluctantly
returned to his house, which she had left with the intention
of attending the instructions of the wife of the Missionary.
The man immediately relented, went to T. Arbousset, ac-
knowledged his fault, and begged him to send for the injured
woman, whose forgiveness he asked, and with whom he shook
hands. After that time he treated her with great kind-
ness. Considering the manner in which women were for-
merly treated, this was considered a circumstance likely to
have great influence among the people.
CHAPTER XXIV.
"Witte Bergen. — Thaba Bossiou. — Congregation. — Zeal in learning to read. — Re-
cognition of Acquaintance. — Mountain. — Peak. — Basutu. — Hats. — Needles. —
Meeting. — Moshesh's Speech. — Caffer-corn Bread. — Polygamy. — Mocatchani.
— Smoking Dakka. — Boesak's Parents hear of their lost Son. — Death of a
"Wife of Moshesh. — Argument respecting Christian mode of burial. — Know-
ledge of the Natives before the arrival of the Missionaries. — Arrival of Boe-
sak's Mother. — Weapons. — Ornaments. — Iron Handkerchiefs. — Burial of
Moshesh's "Wife. — Partin"; request. — Marriage of Moshesh's Son. — Feast of
First Fruits. — A. Steedman's Letter.
6th mo. 9th. Accompanied by Thomas Arhousset, we rode to
Thaba Bossiou, distant about twenty-four miles, through grassy
vales, diversified by sandstone hills of various figure, and
having numerous kraals on their slopes. From some places,
we had a fine view of the Witte Bergen, or White Mountains,
which were now covered with snow. These separate the
Basutu country from Caffraria. From the Basutu side, they
look like mountains of 3,000 feet high ; but the elevation of
the country is great, and the Witte Bergen are said to be
about 9,000 feet above the level of the sea. Thaba Bossiou
signifies the Mountain of Night; the kraal of the Basutu
Chief, Moshesh, and four others, are situated on the top,
which is to them an impregnable fortress. The Missionary
Station is elevated, but stands under the mountain. Thaba
Bossiou is not only the name of the missionary station,
but of the adjacent mountain, a portion of which, with
the mission premises, is represented in the accompanying
etching, in which the Witte Bergen, or Quathlamba Moun-
tains are seen in the distance on the left. The mission-house
was a long, plain, brick building, of five rooms, affording a
moderate share of accommodation, but not at all more than
was needful for health and reasonable comfort. The population
1839.] BASUTU COUNTRY. 367
of this station, including the mountain and its foot, a circle
of about two miles, was nearly 3,000; and twenty-one
more distant kraals, were visible from the mission-house.
When circumstances were favourable, a congregation of from
4 to 500 people assembled here. No natives had, at this time,
been received as members of the church ; but there were
forty inquirers, about a dozen of whom were considered ex-
emplary Christians. The schools could only be kept up for
two periods of the year, of about three months each, on ac-
count of the agricultural pursuits of the population. Books
were scarce ; but thirty persons could both read print and
writing, and one man could write. They were very studious,
and in the absence of printed lessons, they begged the
Missionary to give them written ones. When they had
a little time, they spread a lesson on the ground, and several
of them got around it, so that they made good progress, even
when the schools were suspended. — Moshesh, the principal
Chief of the Basutu, spent much of the afternoon with us ;
he is a man of unusual intelligence, who entertains a great
value for Missionary labours. — We had supposed, that in
this remote part of Africa, we should meet no persons with
whom we were acquainted ; but on arriving at Thaba Bossiou,
we were greeted by Sarah Cassalis, as we had been at Bethu-
lia, by Elizabeth Rolland, both of whom we had met in Cape
Town, in 1831. Indeed, in all our travels, we seldom found
ourselves perfect strangers.
10th. We visited the mountain, which is 400 feet above
the plain ; it takes half an hoiir to walk round the top, upon
which there are 1,500 inhabitants. It is of tabular sandstone,
with a projecting cliff at the top; its outline is irregular.
Cattle are driven up by three rough passes : there are also
four footpaths by which it is accessible ; some of them are
so steep and broken, that a stranger in ascending, requires
the use of his hands for security; but the Basutu women
ascend by them, frequently carrying a child and an additional
burden at the same time. One of the largest passes, which
may be about 10 feet wide, is of basalt, which is shallow, and
in some places, broken through to the sandstone ; this ap-
pears to have been fused by it, and has hardened into a sort
368 THABA Bossiou. [7th mo.
of Touchstone, which, at a distance, looks like a wall on each
side of the pass. The Basalt has emerged at a short distance
from the edge of the mountain, and has scarcely flowed from
its foot, where it forms an irregular heap, as if the accumula-
tion of matter in a state of semifusion, had slowly impelled
that in front forward. This pass forms a striking feature in
the part of the mountain represented in the etching. Near
its eastern extremity, there is a remarkable peak, only the top
of which is seen in the etching, but of which a complete view
is given in the accompanying cut.
"a IRemarliable ^eafe at 5IiE)at)a ISossiou,
The people of Moshesh are a tribe of Bechuanas, called
Basutu; there are also among them refugees of other Bechuana
tribes, as well as a few Caffers and Bushmen. Moshesh col-
lected them by a " shout from the top of the mountain ; ''
while they were assembling, we visited several of their huts,
which are universally of grass, and in form something like
sections of sparrow-pots. The entrances are only about a
foot and a half high and wide, and are arched with clay. The
floors are of mud, and are smooth. Several stout sticks assist
in supporting the huts inside ; to these sticks, as well as to
the sides of the huts, various articles are suspended. The huts
open into circular courts of high reed-fencing, with very nar-
row entrances, defended with boughs. — Moshesh had several
good chests, also an abundance of European clothing, which
he always wore, when off the mountain. A young man
1839.] BASUTU COUNTRY. 369
of Hottentot extraction was assisting him to dress, and
brushing his clothes, when we arrived, which was rather
earher than he expected us. In a large court, in which we
afterwards assembled, several persons were busily employed
in making baskets of a spherical form, a little elongated at
the top, for the purpose of preserving corn. These are made
of grass, and are sewed together with the same material, plat-
ted into a sort of tape, in the same way in which beehives
are made in England, of strands of straw, sewed together with
split briars. The needles used in their manufacture, are of the
size of large packing-needles, but they have two eyes, by
means of which the grass-tape is more easily kept from
slipping. Numbers of these baskets, capable of containing
from nine to thirty-six bushels, are to be seen standing
around the huts of the natives, outside the fences, filled
with CafFer-corn, and having flat stones cemented on the
narrow opening at the top, by means of a little cow-
dung. They are a sufficient protection against the weather ;
and the people being honest, they consider these granaries
safe.
The company, when collected, were seated on the ground,
except Moshesh, who occupied a chair, and ourselves and a
few others, in European clothing, who sat on boxes. On
sitting down with them, a sweet and powerful feeling of di-
vine overshadowing was perceptible. Eugene Cassalis, the
Missionary, interpreted, while my companion and I spoke to
them largely on divine things, including also temperance and
judgment to come, duty to wives, the benefits of industry,
&c. T. Arbousset and E. Cassalis likewise addressed them at
some length ; they were followed by Moshesh, who on the pre-
vious day had made many inquiries respecting the aborigines
of Australia, to whom he now alluded, making some remarks
on their destitute state, and on the practice of some of them
who decorate themselves with feathers, and of those of Van
Diemans Land, who had not even garments of skin. He be-
gan by addressing his father and a subordinate Chief. His
speech, as nearly as it could be translated, was as follows : —
^^ Rejoice, ye Macare and Mocatchani ! ye rulers of cities,
rejoice ! We have all reason to rejoice, on account of the
A A
370 THABA Bossiou. [7th mo.
news we have heard. There are a great many sayings among
men ; and among them, some are true, and some are false ;
but the false have remained with us, and multiplied: we ought,
therefore, to pick up carefully the truths we hear, lest they
should be lost in the rubbish of lies. We are told that we
have all been created by one Being, and that we all sprang
from one man. Sin entered man's heart when he ate the for-
bidden fruit, and we have got sin from him. These men say
that they have sinned ; and what is sin in them, is sin in us,
because we came from one stock, and their hearts and ours are
one thing. Thou, Macare, hast heard these words, and thou
sayest they are lies. You that are grown in years, are the great
men to us, therefore we look to you ; but if these words do not
conquer, the fault will lie with you. You say you will not be-
lieve what you do not understand. Look at an egg ! If a
man break it, there comes only a watery and yellow substance
out of it ; but if it be placed under the wings of a fowl, there
comes a living thing from it. Who can understand this ?
Who ever knew how the heat of the hen produced the chicken
in the egg ? This is incomprehensible to us ; yet we do not
deny the fact. Let us do like the hen. Let us place these
truths in our hearts, as the hen does the eggs under her
wings : let us sit upon them, and take the same pains, and
something new will come of them. "
The Chief here paused for a moment; then addressing the
Missionaries, said, " These men are come from afar, and as
they can stay so short a time with us, I wish you to write
their names and the things they have told us, in a book."
Then turning again to the people, he said, " We had heard
of the antipodes ; but we turned it into a fable, thinking it
was an invention to amuse children. Now we see men who
have come from thence. They tell us everything about that
country. Now, that we see, the people of that country are
in the dark. These men say, that we have been loved of
God. We have plenty of food and covering. The people of
the antipodes, what do you think they eat ? Oxen ? — they
have none. Sheep ? — they have none. Their only food is
birds, wild animals, fish, insects, and roots. And with what
do you think they clothe themselves ? With cloth ? — they
1839.] BASUTU COUNTRY. 3/1
have none. With skins? — they have none. There only remains
for them the feathers of birds. Their Hfe is the Bushman's.
We see that God has loved us indeed; though you say that God
has not loved us, because he has given less to us than to the
Whites. And now God has increased our riches, by giving us
Missionaries, which we must be thankful for. I speak to you,
men. You have heard that there are men of other nations who
despise labour, and think it is only the lot of women to work,
and that it would be below the dignity of a man to put his hand
to a tool. These men have praised your hands, because they
are employed in making baskets ; they have praised the nee-
dle that you use in that work. It is right that man should
assist woman. When man was created, after having looked
around him, he found no being to make him complete : then
God, who knew the wants of man, extracted the woman out
of him. I am angry with you, men ; you assist the women
in many things, but not so much as you ought. I am angry
with you, because I see your wnves lying in the huts with
disease, [the measles,] and fear prevents your entering to
give them the assistance they need. Let me no longer ob-
serve this neglect. I speak to you, children. You also must
assist your parents. These truths are written in a book. It
is your duty to learn to read it, that you may get knowledge
from it, and help your parents with the instruction you shall
find therein. I am angry with you : you are a set of lazy
fellows ! "
After the meeting, we went to one of MoshesVs huts, where
we were regaled with tea, which w^as handed to us in earthen
basins, of English manufacture ; fowls were also served up,
which had been cooked for the occasion. On expressing a
wish to taste the bread made from CafFer-corn, some was
brought, with some of the most delicious sour milk we had
tasted. The bread is prepared by pouring the meal gently
into the middle of a pot of boiling water, and allowing it to
continue to boil till the water nearly disappears by absorption
and evaporation. In this state, it is very palatable. The meal
of Caffer-corn will not make bread Uke wheat-meal. Some
of the women were busy grinding the corn on flat stones, with
others of an oval form. We next went to see a stone house,
A A 2
3/2 THABA BOSSIOU. [7th ITIO.
which two Europeans were building for Moshesh, and for
which they were to receive forty-five oxen. It was in Euro-
pean style, and the Chief had intimated that he had only pro-
vided accommodation in it for one wife. At this time, he
had many ; but there seemed to be a conviction in his mind,
that he must abandon polygamy. This is a great sacrifice
for a man to make in this country, where his wives are his
ser\'ants, and their number is looked upon as giving him con-
sequence. This evil is, however, fast giving way, under the
influence of the Gospel ; and to these people, the circum-
stance, that in the beginning, only one woman was created
as a wife for Adam, carries great weight against polygamy.
Before leaving the mountain, we visited Mocatchani, the
aged father of Moshesh ; who, though addressed by name at
the previous meeting, out of respect, was nevertheless not
present. He had been much opposed to the introduction of
Christianity among the people, and to the consequent change
of their customs ; but his prejudices seemed to be giving
way. He was seated on a stone, by a fire, along with a few
other persons, within a rude, circular fence of bushes, to
which numerous parcels of roots, used in medicine, were sus-
pended. The company soon received many additions ; Mo-
shesh and the Missionaries informed them of what had been
said at the meeting; they addressed themselves to Mocatchani,
who, when he was told that we expressed approbation at the
Chiefs not using strong drink, said, that was good, that his
father was the first who forsook it, and that himself had never
used any. Moshesh follows this good example : on a cer-
tain occasion, when pressed to drink, he replied, " If I were
to drink, I should be talking folly before my people.^^ At
the meeting he noticed with approbation our denunciation of
intemperance, and said, he had observed that the drunkards
among his people rarely became Christians. Moshesh avoids
the use of tobacco and snuff; but his father uses the latter, as
do also most of the Basutu. Some of them likewise smoke
Dakka, or Wild-hemp, Cannabis indica, which is very stupify-
ing and pernicious : it is in use among all the native tribes of
Southern Africa. This morning, I saw a man smoking it in a
rude pipe, stuck into the side of a cow's horn, which was
1839.] BASUTU COUNTRY. 373
nearly filled with water, through which he drew the smoke.
Before we left Mocatchani, he requested the Missionaries to
pray with him.
On returning to the mission-house, we found a young man
from one of the villages near Morija, a relative of our attend-
ant Boesak, who had come in search of him, having heard
that he had passed that way, in consequence of Kaile having,
according to their custom, told the people of the village
through which we passed on the 7th inst. who we were, and
what was our business in this land. He had mentioned Boe-
sak's native name, which Boesak happened to remember,
notwithstanding he was taken from his parents when very
young, by the Bergenaars, Mountaineers, a tribe of Griqua
marauders, who infested this part of Africa a few years ago,
and were ultimately reduced by Andries Waterboer of Griqua
Town. When we came into the vicinity of Beersheba, Boe-
sak told me, that he remembered being taken through that
part of the country, and that when brought to Philippolis,
they were ready to eat their karrosses through hunger ; he
also remembered something of his native tongue when he
came to hear it spoken, and became useful to us as an inter-
preter. His cousin, who came to see him this evening, re-
ported that his mother was on her way to see her long-lost
son, but that his father could not travel, being ill.
11th. In the course of last night, one of the wives of
Moshesh, having eluded the vigilance of a person deputed to
watch her, threw herself from the cliff of Thaba Bossiou, in a
fit of despondency, under which she had been labouring for
some time, and which was probably increased by the recent
loss of a baby, and the fever of the measles, under which she
was suffering. This circumstance prevented the Chief and
his people assembling as he had wished, to ask us questions
on various subjects, and to receive our answers. The Chief
was greatly distressed by the occurrence, the woman having
been a favourite wife. Thomas Arbousset visited Moshesh in
the morning, on his return to Morija, and it was agreed that we
should call upon him in the afternoon; but he sent a message,
at an early hour, requesting Eugene Cassalis and ourselves to
go to him immediately, for the relatives of the woman were
A A 3
374 THABA Bossiou. [7th mo.
determined to have her buried according to their heathen
rites, and he was opposing them. The power of Moshesh
was sufficient to enable him to act arbitrarily, but his wis-
dom led him to prefer overcoming their opposition by argu-
ment. Their custom was, to inter the family of the Chief in
a cattle-kraal, and to assemble their cattle and slay one of
the oxen for a sort of offering and feast.
On arriving upon the mountain, we found a large herd of
cattle collected in idolatrous reverence of the deceased. The
people had tied the body of the woman, so as to bring her
into a sitting posture, and had broken down a place in the
wall of one of the cattle-kraals, in which they were preparing
for her interment. The Chief, in his undress, a karross, &c.
was holding a strong argument with them, on the superior
advantages of the mode of burial adopted by Christians.
These burials, he said, were seasons of instruction, as he had
himself witnessed two days previously, at the interment of a
child of Eugene Cassalis, and in them, idolatrous rites to the
deceased, which were offensive to God, were avoided. Eugene
Cassahs took part in the argument, and when they had con-
cluded, I made a few remarks upon the custom of different
nations in regard to their dead, and the universal adoption of
the practice of burying them decently in the earth, without
heathen rites, wherever the Gospel was received in truth.
Moshesh appealed to the social feelings of man, saying,
" When a child is born, it clings around its mother's neck ;
when it is older, it seeks playmates of its own age ; when
grown to manhood, man seeks association with his fellow-
men ; and which of you, even in death, would wish to be
buried alone }" No one had previously been buried in the
kraal chosen for the interment of the deceased, nor was
there a prospect that another would be buried by her side ;
but about two weeks previously, one of the people of the
station applied to Moshesli, for leave to bury a deceased
relative according to christian practice. The Chief gave con-
sent, and the woman was interred in a piece of ground, selected
for a cemetery, on the top of the mountain, and it was by her
side, that the Chief wished that his wife's remains should be
buried.
1839.] BASUTU COUNTRY. 375
Mocatchani was greatly incensed at this departure from
the customs of the nation : he sent several messages to Mo-
shesh, desiring to have the man put to death, who had in-
fringed upon them by burying his wife according to christian
practice. When the Chief had concluded his argument, he
challenged those who had anything to object, to come for-
ward. Some of them said, they would do so when the Mis-
sionary had withdrawn. To this he replied, that to attack a
man when his back was turned, was a cowardly practice, and
in itself an acknowledgment that he was too powerful to be
met to the face ; that if they had any better arguments than
the Missionary or himself had brought forward, they were
prepared to hear and admit them ; but if not, he would have
his own way ; he said also, that he was not himself a con-
verted man ; that he had long tried to resist the truths spoken
by the Missionaries, but he was convinced, and he could no
longer stand against them. He then made a short pause,
and there was no answer; he therefore requested Eugene
CassaHs to send C. Gosselin, a pious artisan, to prepare a
grave. Some of the objectors said, that if Moshesh thus
broke through their customs, he should not be their Chief;
but threats of this sort he disregarded, well knowing that his
people were too dependent upon him to forsake him. For
in one of the wars, in which they were perpetually engaged,
for many years before the Missionaries came among them,
Moshesh proposed that the flocks and herds of the tribes
should be collected, and defended, upon one of the moun-
tains. At that period, his father was in power, and the people
declined joining in his plan, thinking they could defend their
own cattle, in which they proved mistaken. Moshesh obtained
the assistance of such persons as had no cattle, and saved his,
and the other people became dependent upon him for milk,
which constitutes a principal article of their food. He after-
wards lent them cows, but the increase was his ; and his
stock of milk-cows now amounted to about 20,000 ; they
were dispersed through the numerous villages of his exten-
sive and populous country. When C. Gossehn was preparing
the grave, and Moshesh and several of the people were looking
on, old Mocatchani came up, and inquired how they meant
376 THABA Bossiou. [7th mo.
to bury him when he died ; Moshesh replied, in the same
manner in which they were going to bury his own wife ; and
he added, that he wished also to be so buried himself, and
desired the people to observe how Gossehn made the grave,
that in case he died before them, they might know how to
bury him.
Under the instruction of the Missionaries, the people had
become much raised in morals, and advanced in knowledge.
Many of them, at this station, held family worship. Forty
formed a Bible-class, with whom the Missionary met fre-
quently. On a certain occasion, Moshesh observed to his
people, that it was reasonable that they should believe what
the Missionaries told them, because they told them as truth,
many things which they previously knew to be true ; that
before the Missionaries came, they were acquainted with
most of the truths they taught, so far as they were contained
in the law of Moses, and were written in the Ten Command-
ments, excepting as regarded the Sabbath ; for God had sent
them this knowledge ; it had descended to them ; and those
who had died before they had the Bible, would be judged
according to the knowledge they had possessed. But the
Missionaries had brought them the knowledge of the Sab-
bath, of Jesus Christ, and of the Holy Spirit ; and that they
who had received the Bible, would be judged according to
the Bible.
In the course of the day, the mother of Boesak arrived,
having come on foot about thirty miles, to see her long-lost
son, who was strikingly like his mother. She said, he was
torn from her arms, when a little boy, by the Griqua Berge-
naars ; and when she turned after them, they told her to run
away, but she followed them weeping as long as she could.
From that time, she had not heard of him, till the other day,
and her heart had mourned over him as dead. Her husband
was sick, and could not come to see his son ; but she was
glad to see him, and thankful that he had fallen into the
hands of people who had treated him as a son : she also said,
that the Berganaars took away another son, who, she believed,
Avas among the Boors, and a daughter, of whom she had
not heard. Boesak, however, had traced his sister to the
1839.]
BASUTU COUNTRY.
377
neighbourhood of Graff Reinet. This also was joyful tidings to
the bereaved mother, who, after spending a short time with
her son, and arranging that he should visit his parents on
leaving us, returned to confirm to her husband the truth of
the report they had heard, of their long-lost child being in
the country.
Some of the Bastaards, residing in this part of the land,
had, at times, compelled Bushmen to become their servants,
and behaved to them with great severity. A few of these
had fled to Moshesh, who had protected them. Some of these
Bushmen said they were beaten with samboks like beasts; and
one was so starved, while his master was living in plenty, that
he was obliged to dig grubs out of the ground, and eat them
to sustain Ufe. In the afternoon, we visited one of the native
smiths, and saw him working his iron, which was smelted
from ore, found in an adjacent mountain ; his apparatus are
here represented. For bellows, the smith used two bags of
ISasutu Smtt!/s Apparatus.
soft leather ; they were opened at the top by the hand, by
means of two parallel sticks, in ascending, and closed in
descending ; a piece of leather passing over the hand on one
side, and over the thumb on the other, to facilitate the
operation. Each bag was terminated by a pipe formed of a
cow's horn, with the point cut off; these pipes were kept in
their places by means of two old handles of hoes, on which
large stones were laid, and they were terminated in a pipe
of clay, in an arched wall of the same material, formed
of a section of a white-ant's hill. Between this and a
smaller wall, about six inches distant, a charcoal fire was
placed. The blast was well maintained ; the rougher work
was effected by means of hard stones, on others of large
378 THABA BOSSIOU. [7th HIO.
dimensions, and the finer with hammers of the smith's own
making. They weld iron, and finish their work with con-
siderable skill. They also work copper and brass. Breast-
plates of the latter article worked so smooth and bright, that
they would not disgrace a Birmingham manufactory, are
also made by this people, for use in war. In their combats,
they also use shields of a remarkable form, surmounting and
balancing them by tall plumes of the black feathers of the
Ostrich. These plumes are also used in attacking Lions,
which dare not advance against a number of them stuck into
the ground : but the plumes are most serviceable to the
herdsmen, who, when they wish to leave their cattle, stick
one of them into the ground; the cattle are taught to feed and
lie down around it, and to regard it as the herdsman's repre-
sentative. The number of feathers required to make one of
these plumes, is so considerable that one of them is equal in
value, to an ox.
The chief weapon of war among the Basutu is an Assagai with
a short handle, but they generally carry long ones with them;
these, as among the Caffers, serve all the purposes to which
we apply knives, or even razors. The handles of those of the
Basutu are formed of reeds, their country not affording sticks
applicable to the purpose, for it is a woodless country. Some
of the Basutu wear large brass rings around their necks, and
a considerable number of smaller ones upon their arms ; they
often have also two or three earrings in each ear. Many of
them wear strings of small beads around, their heads, necks,
arms,and legs. Their snuff-boxes are frequently made of a spe-
cies of calabash, not more than an inch and a half in diameter;
these are generally suspended from the neck, along with an
instrument of iron or copper, something like a flattened spoon,
which serves all the purposes of a pocket-handkerchief. The
clothing of the Basutu is much more complete than that of
the Caffers, and is a decent covering. A pleasant openness
subsists between the French Missionaries and the people ;
which, though it subjects the Missionaries to frequent inter-
ruption, is highly conducive to the improvement of the people.
12th. At nine o'clock, we again ascended the mountain,
where we joined the Chief and many of his people, who were
1839.] BASUTU COUNTRY. 379
assembled on the outside of the fence of the hut of his de-
ceased wife. Within the fence, her remains were lying, wound
up in a karross, and made fast to a stout stick, to preserve
them in a straight position. Wood is too scarce in this and
many other parts of Africa, to admit of coffins being used.
After a pause, the opening of the fence was removed, and a
number of the natives took up the corpse, over which a white
cloth was spread, and bore it upon napkins to the grave,
which was about a quarter of a mile off. The company be-
came augmented to about 600. The Chief himself attended,
as did also all the dissatisfied parties. The season was one
of great solemnity. Eugene Cassalis, according to their cus-
tom, rehearsed, in a solemn manner, a number of appropriate
Scripture passages, as the procession moved to the grave-
side, where he preached a long, unstudied sermon ; my dear
companion and myself also addressed the company, while E.
Cassalis interpreted. The remains were then placed in the
grave, which was roughly masoned wdth sandstone, this pre-
caution being taken to prevent disturbance by hyenas. The
covering-stones being adjusted, and the people again quiet,
E. Cassalis engaged in prayer. The company remained till
the grave was filled up, and then separated in a very orderly
manner. The opportunity, through the divine blessing, was
made one of great instruction. It presented a striking con-
trast betu'een the becoming order of Christianity, and the
disorder of heathenism ; and so far as appeared, all were
fully satisfied. Poor old Mocatchani seemed to feel that his
own standing was, as with one foot in the grave, on the brink
of which he moved with tottering steps, as we parted from
him, and he accepted from my hands a small token of respect.
Moshesh and some attendants joined us afterwards at the
mission-house, where, after dinner, my dear companion was
engaged in prayer. In the evening, we set out for Plaatberg.
On parting from the Chief, who sent his interpreter with us
as guide, and lent a horse to another person to accompany
us, he said, he had yet many things to give up, for which he
had not strength in himself ; he therefore desired that we
might join our prayers with his, to God, that he might receive
strength.
380 THABA Bossiou. [7th mo.
By a letter from Thomas Arbousset, we were informed,
that on a subsequent occasion, the youngest son of Moshesh
came to the resolution to avow himself pubUcly to be a
Christian, and as such, to confirm his marriage publicly with
a beheving wife, who, under the divine blessing, after much
patience and endurance, had become the instrument of "saving
her unbeheving husband. " The Chief, accompanied by old
Mocatchani, and many others of the family, and by a multitude
of the people, was present, to witness this interesting event.
Moshesh avowed his high estimate of Christianity, by a refer-
ence to their ceremonial partaking of a feast of First-fruits.
He reminded the people, that it was their custom, to boil the
first ripe Pumpkin, and to partake of it, from the youngest
to the eldest. He then stated, that as, in like manner, his
youngest son had been made the first partaker, in his family,
of the blessings of the Gospel, so he hoped that the others,
up to the oldest, might yet be favoured of the Lord, to par-
take of the same.
This was the only time I ever heard of a feast of first-
fruits among these people ; but it was here spoken of as a
thing of regular occurrence. It seems to me very possible,
that much may yet remain to be disclosed, relating to the
customs of these people ; as the Missionaries residing among
the natives, do not form parts of their families, nor, in many
instances, live in their villages, even they may yet find cir-
cumstances thus casually brought under their notice, of the
previous existence of which they may have had no idea.
The following extract of a letter from my friend, Andrew
Steedman, of Cape Town, dated *^8th Nov. 1843," will shew,
that Christian principle is still making progress among the
Basutu, and " bringing forth fruit unto holiness."
" Since you left, I have been on a tour to the French
Missionary Stations in the Basutu land. I can assure
you, I was never more delighted with what I observed, than
on that occasion. You know the Basutu are rather out of
the way of seeing visitors, and I shall never forget the warm,
and brotherly reception I met with amongst them. ' I am a
man of the desert, ' said Jeremiah Mollope, at Morija, who,
you may remember is the second son of the Chief Moshesh,
1839.] BASUTU COUNTRY. 381
' and don't hear many speak of the love of God. Backhouse
and Walker, besides yourseK, are the only strangers I have
ever heard speak on such subjects ; and it is very pleasing to
find, that you tell me the same things that my teachers are
constantly reminding me about. I can fully understand that
it is to the Gospel that we are indebted for all the blessings
by which we are surrounded,' But I must give you his reply
to me, after having delivered a long address to him, on the
importance of divine things, and which I wrote down as it
was translated to me by T. Arbousset. ^ I believe, ' he con-
tinued, ' it is my duty, as well as my privilege, to keep close
to Christ. I have already read the exhortation which Christ
gave to his disciples, in the fourteenth chapter of John, — ^If
ye love me, keep my commandments.' I trust that the eyes
of my heart have been enhghtened, and that I am led to look
above for happiness ; for there is nothing here below on
which we can repose. Affliction is our portion here : that
we shall have ; but my trust is in the Lord : my wife is sick
and afflicted, but what shall I say ? I am but a blind man,
and must submit to be led as God pleases, as a child without
any choice of his own.' "
" ' The Lord often works one thing by another, while we do
not know his design toward us. But he has eyes that see
all things, and he knows what he is doing. He drew me
from the company of wicked men, amongst whom I long
lived in the world : he has given me to taste of his love,
yet my heart is but a little one ; he knows that in loving
me, he has loved an ugly thing ; but I know he will accept
the love which he has himself put therein ; for he first loved
me, and therefore, I now love him ; but my love is only as
a little stream that flows into a great ocean.' "
*^At the conclusion of this communication, Paul, the
chief Counsellor, who had come up to us during the above
speech, said, 'I consider myself happy to have arrived at this
moment. I have had the pleasure of seeing a man from ano-
ther country, and of hearing from his lips, words that are a
confirmation of those truths which I hear from my teachers,
week after week. Marvellous, indeed, must that Gospel be,
which works the same thing amongst so many different tribes
382 BASUTU COUNTRY. [7th mo.
of men ! proving, that it comes from Him who is the Great
Master of us all.' "
" At Thaba Bossiou a converted man of the name of Moses,
whom you may have known, said, at the conclusion of a long
interview, ^You have come from a far country, and have
brought me a small loaf of the bread of life ; I have eaten it,
and am surprised how much it has satisfied me. How much
it tastes like the Lord's bread ! I want to praise him for this,
but I have nothing to praise him with. I am a child of the
sepulchre ; I have been shut up in a dark house, where no
light could penetrate ; but now, the door has been opened,
and I have seen the light, which my poor fathers never saw.
When I first heard the teachers, I thought these men brought
strange news, and said, I will never believe them : but I did
not know that the Lord was stronger than I, and could bring
me, not only to beheve, but to love that which at first I hated.
Now I can look up to Heaven, where I never looked before,
and long for the arrival of that time when, having on the
karross of Jesus, I shall be admitted into his presence, in
that happy place which I now regard as my true home and
resting place.' ' Go,' said he, * go and greet your children
from me, and tell them you have seen a man who was dead,
but is now risen by Jesus ; that man says. May you grow up
in the Lord, and then when you die, you will depart in the
Lord, and be for ever with him.' — I give you these few par-
ticulars, not doubting but that you will feel interested in
them, although I had no intention whatever, when I com-
menced this letter, of taking you so far into the interior, over
ground over which you have already passed, the remembrance
of which will, I am sure, not soon be obliterated from your
mind."
CHAPTER XXIV.
Country. — Large Reed. — Plaatberg. — Bastaards. — Wheat.— Carolus Batje. — Ho-
nour of Persons in Authority. — Congregations. — Wild Beasts. — Sick Child
entombed alive. — Heaths. — Zantedeschia. — Grass. — Lishuani. — Destroyers of
Latakoo. — Matuwani. — Griquas. — Makwatling. — Botaung. — Cafifer-Cranes.— •
Mission Family. — Caffer thrown over a Cliff. — Molitsani. — Mogoya. — T. L.
Hodgson's Mission of Peace. — Christian Convert bound. — Destroyed Villages.
— Bushman Kraal. — Mirametsu. — Korannas. — Bushmen. — Zoolu Refugees. —
Burning the Grass. — Electric Columns. — The Hartebeest. — The Brindled Gnu.
— The Zebra of the Plains. — Imparani. — Mantatees. — Bechuana Wars. — Can-
nibalism. — Sikoniela. — Predatory Wars. — Christian Converts. — Barapootsa
Deputation. — Cultivation. — Affection. — Self-denial. — Remarkable Predictions.
— Great Awakening. — Persecution. — Martyrdom. — Answers to Prayer. — Siko-
niela and the Boors. — Dingaan's Treachery. — Deliverance of F. Owen. — Queen
of the Mantatees. — Convictions of Sin. — James Allison.
7th mo. 12th. The country between Thaba Bossiou and
Plaatberg is a continuance of grassy vales, between sandstone
hills, with a few traces of basalt: the slopes of the hills abound
with villages of the Basutu, these people esteeming the plains
unhealthy. Near some of the villages the people were still
harvesting Caifer-corn. The inhabitants of this part of the
country, which is sometimes called Nieuwland, cultivate this
kind of grain to such an extent, that some of them will have
from 150 to 200 bushels in a season. Its price is about one
shilling a bushel in harvest. Traders, at Colesberg, sometimes
obtain six or seven shillings a bushel for it. Some of the
Kloofs of this part of the country produce a tall, stout Reed,
resembling ArundoDonax ; it is highly useful to the inhabitants.
Three hours' smart riding brought us to the Caledon River,
on the north bank of which, we called at the hut of a Bas-
taard, with whom we left a tract, finding that he could read
Dutch : in three-quarters of an hour more we arrived at Plaat-
berg, Flat Mountain, a Wesley an Missionary Station, inhab-
ited by Bastaards, who emigrated hither from Old Plaatberg,
384
PLAATBERG.
[7tli mo.
which lay nearer to the Kuruman, and was forsaken on ac-
count of the frequent failure of crops from drought. The
Station, which is depicted in the accompanying cut, was, at
^laatiberg, aJResIepn J^lissionarp Station.
this time, in charge of Thomas Hezekiah Sephton, who filled
the office of catechist : he was a native of Nottinghamshire,
and his wife was a native of London ; she was a model of
neatness in her family. This worthy couple received us with
much Christian kindness.
13th. Ten of the inhabitants of Plaatberg had lately died
of the measles. Many of the men were out hunting. With a
thoughtlessness that is characteristic of the Bastaards, they
had left their families, against the counsel of their teacher, and
at a time when their presence was greatly needed at home.
Several of them were possessed of wagons, which they had
taken with them ; their sick families were consequently des-
titute of fuel, which had to be brought from a distance. The
Bastaards have so strange a conceit of their superiority over
the Bechuana tribes, on account of their own descent, ignoble
as that must be esteemed, that there seemed a probability of
their resting in this self-complacency till those they con-
temned should rise above them in civilization. The dwellings
of the people at Plaatberg, were chiefly hartebeest houses, of
tall reeds, plastered with mud : a few had better cottages ;
and two or three of their houses were built of brick, in Euro-
pean style. But even in one of these, which had a fireplace
1839.] BASUTU COUNTRY. 385
and a chimney, the fire, according to the common custom of
the coloured natives, was made in the midst of the floor.
In consequence of this practice, both the houses and people
are far from cleanly. Their furniture consisted of a bed-
stead, a few boxes, some stools generally with seats made of
strips of prepared skins, a few iron pots, a kettle, with a few
basins, bottles, &c. Their bedding, and much of their cloth-
ing, were of tanned skins, with the wool on, but the wool
was removed from the skins, made into trousers and shoes.
The men wore hats, manufactured in the Colony, and the
women had cotton bonnets and gowns. Meat and Indian-
corn were to be seen in almost every house, and Pumpkins
in many. These people grow a considerable quantity of
wheat, which they generally sell to the Boors, who have emi-
grated into the adjacent country. Some of them spend much
of the money which they thus obtain, in strong drink, which
is a great snare to them. There were at this time about 600
people on the station, 140 of whom were members of the
Wesleyan church. In the school, there were sixty-five boys,
and sixty-three girls ; nine formed a Bible-class, twenty-one
read in the Testament, and fifty-one in the spelling-book ;
nineteen wrote on paper, and thirteen on slates. — Karolus
Batje, the Captain, was a man advanced in years ; he had
a rival named Cornelius Van Wyk, by whose means there
was much unsettlement among the people. When Batje
came into the house of the Catechist, he took a seat on the
floor, just within the door. This, we thought, ought not to
have been allowed ; where a Captain is to be respected
among his people, he ought to be treated with marked
respect by the teacher, and invited to sit upon a chair.
Sometimes this may be attended by inconvenience, from the
want of cleanliness in the parties, and their liability to bring
in vermin ; but this ought to be borne patiently, till the man
is raised to better habits. Some of the Missionaries act very
judiciously in this respect; in such cases, the inconve-
niences alluded to, are speedily removed, and the Captain,
feeling himself respected, is more ready to promote the views
of the teacher or Missionary.
14th. In the forenoon, the people assembled in the
B B
386 PLAATBERG. [7th mo.
reed-built chapel, for worship; in the afternoon for school, and
ao-ain for worship in the evening. The attendance was small,
in consequence of the prevaihng sickness. The chapel would
hold 200 persons. The attendance was sometimes so nu-
merous that a third of the people had to stand outside. De-
fective as the Bastaards, in many instances, are in Christian
practice, they are generally diligent in attending pubUc wor-
ship. A meeting was usually held in the forenoon with the
Basutu of the adjacent villages, who assembled on such occa-
sions, in numbers vayring from 100 to 600; for three weeks,
this meeting had been suspended on account of the measles ;
only six individuals of this class were here to-day. The time
of meeting was announced by the cracking of a bullock- whip,
the station being without a bell, and the people without clocks.
After the routine services were gone through, in the forenoon,
my companion imparted much important counsel to the con-
gregation, T. Sephton interpreting. The evening meeting was
nearly left to ourselves, and I ventured to address the people
in Dutch, T. Sephton now and then helping me with a word.
On both occasions, much plainness was used, in regard to
the defects of the people, and their imagined superiority over
the neighbouring Basutu, as well as in extending encourage-
ment to those who were making a profession of Christianity,
to "press toward the mark for the prize of their high calhng.^'
15th. There are some remarkable kloofs in the sides of
the tabular sandstone mountains here, out of which, springs
of water issue, that are helpful in cultivation ; but in grow-
ing corn, the rain that falls, generally affords sufficient mois-
ture. Some of the kloofs are bushy, and abound with Conies.
These are among the numerous animals upon which the Tigers
of this country prey. One of these is the true Leopard, and
another the Cheta, or Hunting-Leopard, Felis jubata, the lat-
ter is called Luipaard, Leoj)ard, by the Dutch farmers, while
the true Leopard, Felis Leopardus, is called Tyger, Tiger. Some
children walking up a kloof at this place, one day, thought
they heard the gurr of a Leopard ; they ran away affrighted,
and reported the matter. The next day being the Sabbath,
no notice was taken of the circumstance; but on the following
day, some men armed themselves, and went out to see for
1839.] BASUTU COUNTRY. 387
the ravenous beast. They stopped in different places to listen,
and at length heard a sound, toward which they advanced
cautiously. They soon discovered that it was not the voice
of a leopard, and on coming to the spot, found, to their
horror, that it was a living child, entombed among some
stones. The poor little creature was soon identified, as be-
longing to some CaiFers who had taken up their abode here.
This act would not have been thought strange in Caffraria,
but it was looked upon, as one of more than brutal unkind-
ness by the inhabitants of this part of the country. The
parents of the child therefore immediately left the neighbour-
hood. The child had been taken ill, and they were afraid it
would die upon their hands, and that they should be defiled
by touching its dead body. It was in a high fever when
taken living from its tomb, and it was too far gone to be
recovered by good nursing at the mission-house, where, in a
few days, it died.
The Heaths, Erica, of Southern Africa, are most abundant
among the mountains in the Cape Town district. A few are
thinly scattered in various places, as far east as Grahams
Town. The most striking, and widely diffused species is the
beautiful Erica cerinthoides, the Honeywort-flowered Heath,
which has heads of downy, scarlet, tubular flowers. It was
also growing with a few other species of Erica and some
ferns, near the edge of the sandstone cliffs at Plaatberg. In
moist places in the kloofs, there were also a few trees ; and
Zantedeschia (Bthiopica was growing in the springs, but it was
much nipped by the frost ; it is rare in this part of Africa.
Grass is so plentiful, that the people burn off the old which
remains at this season of the year, to make way for the new ;
but this makes the more sour kinds to grow most abundantly.
In the afternoon, accompanied by Thomas H. Sephton and
one of the people, we rode about twenty-four miles, to Lish-
uani. On the way, our intelligent companion pointed out
a hill, in passing which, lately, a Leopard growled at him :
near to it there was a brook, which he said, required caution
in approaching, lest lions should be watching for their prey,
among the reeds on its margin. These formidable animals
had been much reduced by the emigrating Boors. They were
B B 2
388
LISHUANI.
[7th mo.
now rarely seen here. We fell in with no wild animals upon
this journey, except a few Springboks. They always add, by
their elegant figure and graceful movements, to the interest
of the country they inhabit.
i;isl)uani, a aateslegan Station.
Lishuani, which is represented in the accompanying cut,
consists of a humble Mission-house, belonging to the Wes-
leyans : it is situated among great rocks, at the foot of a
sandstone cliff. Near the Mission-house, there are a few
mat-huts, belonging to some Griquas, who removed hither
from Old Bootchap, and in the vicinity there are several
Basutu villages. In this neighbourhood a few of the people
were also residing, who a few years ago, invaded the mis-
sionary-station at Lattakoo ; they were under a Chief named
Tlalela. Not thinking themselves safe in the Zoolu country,
to which they returned, they fled into that of Moshesh, who
received them peaceably, and appointed them this place, where
they now cultivate the ground in peace. Being but a short
distance from Lishuani, many of them resort thither to listen
to the glad tidings of salvation. We reached Lishuani about
sunset, and were welcomed by George and Sarah Bingham,
whom we had seen in Cape Town, and with whom we spent
a pleasant evening. Much of the country we passed through
to-day was taken possession of by a Chief named Matuwani,
in 1826; he drove out several other tribes; the colonial
troops intended to have destroyed him and his people
1839.] BASUTU COUNTRY. 389
in 1828, when, by mistake, they fell upon another tril)e !
There are a few small trees in the kloof behind Lishuani, and
some scattered Wild Olives on the sides of the cliff, the
margin of which is fringed with heaths.
16th. The people were invited to a meeting in the chapel,
which is a large, hartebeest house. About seventy assembled,
whom we addressed through the medium of T. Sephton.
The congregation here was sometimes considerable ; but the
measles and hunting had reduced it temporarily. The school
was suspended. Many of the people could read. Many of
the Griquas here, were in but middling circumstances, but
some of them possessed wagons. They wore clothing similar
to that of the people of Plaatberg, and in cold weather, put on
karrosses as cloaks. Some of them were pious, and most had
a knowledge of the doctrines of the Gospel, but they were
not thought to have grown in grace of latter years. Since
their removal from Bootchap, they had been rather ^^nsettled,
notwithstanding the country was much more fruitful than
the one they left, which was forsaken on account of the fre-
quent failure of the crops.
1 7th. George and Sarah Bingham accompanied us to Ma-
kwatling, a station of the Paris Missionary Society, among a
tribe of Bechuanas, named Bataung, or Batauw, where we were
cordially welcomed by Francis and Eliza Daumas, who were
natives of the south of France. This station, which is repre-
sented in the accompanying etching, is about four miles north
of Lishuani. The mountain lying between these places has
precipitous sides, and the road round the point is six miles.
In the afternoon, we walked to the top of the mountain,
which is an extended, grassy plain, with a few elevated, sand-
stone rocks, from which some other missionary stations, and
several native villages are visible. The adjacent plain has a
considerable number of remarkable hills upon it, some of
them forming rock-crested peaks. Numerous villages exist
within a short distance of the Mission-house. Several of
the people had been into the Colony to work ; they had
been careful of their wages, and had procured cattle, and re-
turned with them to their own country. Some of them
were building cottages of stone and clay, and most of them
B B 3
390 MOLITSANl's WERF. [7th mO.
were decently clothed. Their habits were industrious, and
they had made great improvement in the two years in which
they had been under Missionary instruction. On the way
from Lishuani, we saw three CaiFer, or Crowned Cranes ;
these noble birds are seen here in the same latitude as in
CafFraria.
18th. We had a satisfactory meeting with such of the
people as could be assembled ; they were very attentive ;
several of them appeared to have come, in some measure,
under the influence of Christian principle ; they had gener-
ally abandoned polygamy and other heathen customs. Occa-
sionally, as many as 400 attended public worship, but on an
average, about 200. The Batauw, or Bataung, which signifies,
" People of the lion, " are also sometimes called Ligoya, from
a Chief, whose power is now broken, and who, with the rem-
nant of his people, had taken up his residence in this part of
the country. David Rayla, the Chief of the Makwathng
kraal, was a pious man ; he was a nephew of Makwana, the
principal Chief of the Batauw, who resided about forty miles
distant. Two young women of decent and orderly character
resided in the mission-family ; they were a daughter and a
niece of a Chief named Molitsani. A young man, of the
Caff'er nation was cook in the family, He was nearly
killed in one of their wars ; but on showing signs of
life, was thrown over a clifi', by which means one of his
thighs was broken. In this state, he was brought to F. and
E. Daumas, to whom he became strongly attached, and in
whose family the light of the Gospel dawned upon his soul.
19th. Accompanied by Francis Daumas, who also supplied
us with horses, we rode to the werf or village of Molitsani, a
Chief of a section of the Bataung, who was formerly a great
warrior. The power of this Chief having been broken, he
settled in peace, with the remnant of his people, within the
country of Moshesh. The village consisted of about 100
huts, which were formed like sections of sparrow-pots, and
were built of sticks and reeds, and plastered with mud. They
opened into remarkably neat, circular courts, of tall reeds,
neatly bound together with platted grass, and which had en-
trances sufficiently high to admit a man walking erect. The
1839.] BASUTU COUNTRY. 391
cattle-kraals, or folds, were of stone ; one of them was un-
usually large. When we arrived, the Chief had just been kill-
ing an ox, and dividing it among his people, under a Wild
Olive tree that had been preserved from destruction, and served
as a forum. It was customary for the Chief to feed his people
in this way. We were greeted at his hut by his wives; and in
a short time, when he returned from dispensing the meat, by
himself, and various other members of his family. He in-
vited us to be seated by him, on mats, in a court, free from
smoke, which was very annoying in the places where there
were fires ; these are usually made of dry cow-dung, in this
part of Africa, where wood is extremely scarce. Molitsani
collected a large number of his people, whom we addressed
through the medium of F. Daumas, on the way of salvation ;
he occasionally visited this village, and several others, on
the ascent of the same mountain and of some others adjacent,
for the purpose of imparting religious instruction. After this
meeting, the Chief went to seek some refreshment for us, and
brought us some delicious sour milk, with his own hands. For-
merly, he entertained a strong objection to his people resort-
ing to Makwatling for religious instruction, fearing that they
would not continue to be subject to him ; but he found, that
those who had received the Gospel, paid him even increased
respect in everything that was right, and his objections con-
sequently subsided. Some of his own family now resided on
the Mission-station, and he sent them food on pack-oxen,
and himself occasionally resorted thither to the public wor-
ship ; the distance was about eighteen miles. Here we also
met with Mogoya, the Chief, whose people were called
Ligoya, or Lehoya. He resided near to MoUtsani, but
was inferior to him; both of these Chiefs were subject to
Makwana.
In the days of Molitsani's greatness, he was a noted war-
rior, and hostilities arose between him and a Chief named
SifFonello, with whom my old schoolfellow, Thomas Laidman
Hodgson, resided as a Missionary. Finding that there was
no hope of any good being done amongst the people under
such circumstances, T. L. Hodgson undertook the respon^
sible, but blessed office of peacemaker, between the hostile
392 MOLiTSANi's WERF. [7th mo.
chiefs. Attended only by one man, he went to the residence
of Molitsani, which was, at that time, upon the banks of the
Vaal, or Yellow River. On arriving, he went directly to the
Chief, and told him his business. The Chief inquired, if he
was not afraid to come to him in such a manner. T. L.
Hodgson replied, No ; and asked why he should be afraid,
when he came to the Chief as his friend ; adding, that he
was hungry, and wished the Chief to give him something to
eat. With this, Molitsani complied ; he also appointed him
a hut to sleep in, while he should consult his people. The
evening was damp, but T. L. Hodgson lay down outside the
hut, feeling as if he should be more in the power of the peo-
ple if he were within it. He felt peaceful in thus taking rest,
knowing that he had come on the business of his Lord and
Master. In relating these circumstances, he said, that he could
experimentally adopt the language of the Psalmist, " I laid me
down and slept ; I awaked, for the Lord sustained me ; " for
he found that the deliberation of Mohtsani and his counsel-
lors had been, whether they should kill him and eat him, or
accept the proposals of peace with which he was charged ;
and the Lord had inclined their hearts to the latter.
Between Makwatling and Molitsani's werf, we passed a
mountain, on the top of which there was a village, where a
young man, on first awaking to righteousness, had " brought
strange things to the ears " of his people ; and they, taking
him to be insane, had bound his hands to his feet with thongs,
and kept him in this state for five days ; at the end of this
time, he prevailed on them to liberate him ; he then made
his way to the Missionary Station, being in a very emaciated
state for want of food. Here his wants were supplied, and
he was sent back, in company with a few intelligent converts,
who explained the matter to the villagers, and they now lis-
tened to his pious exhortations.
On the way from Molitsani's village to a station of Ko-
rannas, about eight miles distant, as well as in the course of
our morning's ride, we passed the former sites of many vil-
lages, which were destroyed in the wars ; the stone cattle-
kraals only remained to mark the deserted spots. In the
afternoon, we also passed a kraal lately occupied by Bushmen,
1839.]
BASUTU COUNTRY.
393
who had probably removed to follow the migration of
some game ; it consisted of alcoves of leafy boughs, large
enough for two or three persons to sit under. The native
name of the place, where the Korannas were stationed, signi-
fied Black-forest ; it was also the name of the mountain under
which the station was situated ; it appears now to be called
Mirametsu, and is represented in the accompanying cut.
JWirametsu, a aJKtsUBan Station.
This station was under the charge of an intelligent, indus-
trious, Wesleyan Catechist, named Eli Wiggil. We found
him busily employed in building himself a house, in the ab-
sence of his wife and family in Albany. He had received no
tidings of them for five months ; in the course of this
time, he expected his wife to be confined. Suspense of this
kind is not unfrequent with Missionaries, — The Korannas are
an original tribe of Hottentots, who were formerly under a
Chief named Kora; those at Mirametsu were descended from
the people who inhabited the site of Cape Town, and the
vicinity, when the Dutch first took possession of the Colony;
they subsist on the milk and flesh of their cattle, and by
hunting, and are a purely pastoral people. Their late Chief
Jan Kaptein Taibosch, a pious man, was killed by a lion,
when in the chase ; his son and successor, who was now a
minor, was receiving an education at Farmerfield, in Albany.
These people wore clothing made in the same manner as that
of Europeans. Though they had been many years under
394 MiRAMETSU. [7th mo.
missionary instruction, and about fifty of them were members
of the Wesleyan church, they had not been prevailed upon
to take so important a step in civilization, as to adopt, in
any measure, agricultural pursuits. Several of them could
read Dutch, but it was thought that they did not understand
it well. Formerly, they were congregated upon the Hart
River, but from thence they emigrated along with the Wes-
leyans from Bootchap and Old Plaatberg ; they were for
some time at Umpukani, which they left, alleging as a rea-
son, the scarcity of fuel. There was wood in the kloofs at
Mirametsu. The Korannas were living in mat-huts ; they were
prone to remove from place to place. The chapel had not at
this time been erected, but the people assembled in a place
where the rocks served for seats, and a Wild Olive tree pro-
tected the preacher from the sun and wind. Here we met
them, and addressed them through the medium of Eli Wiggil,
who interpreted into a low dialect of Dutch, and Jan Pinar, a
pious old man, who rendered the Dutch into the uncouth Hot-
tentot, which is also the language of the Korannas and Bush-
men. The Bushmen, or Baroa, People of the Bow, are the most
degraded of the Hottentot race ; they neither possess cattle
nor cultivate the ground, but live entirely on wild animals,
ants-eggs and roots; they are the only people in South Africa
who use the bow ; they live in the mountains, with little shel-
ter from the weather, or under ledges of the rocks. — On re-
turning to Makwatling, we passed a few villages of Zoolu
refugees, under Sepapu or Mora Pakalita, TJie son of Pakalita,
a well-disposed and amiable man, whose father fled from the
tyranny of Chaka, a brother of Dingaan, Chief of the Natal
country. Chaka was subsequently slain by Dingaan, who, by
report^ was in no way inferior to Chaka in pride and tyranny.
20th. Having obtained a guide and some additional horses,
it being necessary to leave two of our own behind, we started
for Imparani, distant nearly fifty miles, and traversed a con-
tinuance of grassy vales, or plains, among sandstone hills,
leaving Umpukani on the left, when about fifteen miles on
the way. In some places, the grass had been burnt, for a
great extent. Remarkable electric columns of black dust, of
great elevation, were slowly traversing the plains in various
1839.] MANTATEE COUNTRY. 395
directions. At first sight, we took them for the smoke of un-
extinguished fires, but further observation corrected this error-
the manner of their travelling proved their true character ;
sometimes, several were visible at once. — Before arriving at
Imparani, we came again upon the Caledon, which here runs
in a deep channel, and has willows on its banks, and agate
pebbles among the stones of its bed. We passed a few herds
of Springboks and Hartebeests, and one of the Brindled Gnu,
known among the Dutch as the Blaauw Wildebeest, Blue
Wild-beast, also one of the Zebra of the Plains.
The Hartebeest, Bubalus Caama, has the features of an An-
telope, with some of the characters of a Buffalo : the adult male
is about 4 feet high at the withers, 7 ffiet from the nose to the
insertion of the tail, which is 16 inches long : the general
colour is a bright yellowish brown, with a tinge of red : the
horns are about 21 inches long; they are erect and tubercled
with imperfect rings for more than half their length, and then
bent back. These animals run off with a short, heavy gallop ;
their pace appears awkward on first starting. — The Brindled
Gnu, Catohlepas taurina, is about 4 feet high at the withers ;
its length is 7 feet 4 inches from the nose to the insertion of the
tail, which is 21 inches long. Its general colour is a slaty dun,
brindled with vertical stripes of greyish and blackish brown :
the fore-part of the body is robust and clumsy, the hinder
part delicate and elegant : the head is somewhat like that of
an ox ; it has a long, flowing mane, and a bristly black beard,
descending down the dewlap to the breast. The horns are
black, and 21 inches long ; they are placed horizontally
on the head, descending downwards and outwards, and then
curving upwards, and turning backwards. — The Zebra of the
Plains, Equus Burchellii, is 4^ feet high at the shoulders, and
8^ feet in extreme length : the body round, legs robust,
mane standing 5 inches high, tail flowing and white; the
general colour cinnamon brown, variously banded with black
and deep brown transverse stripes.
Near Imparani, there were several remarkable peaks, and
tabular sandstone mountains ; the villages of the natives were
very numerous on the rocky slopes of the latter. On the
plains, the corn-fields of the people were extensive. We
396 iMPARANi. [7th mo.
passed through the werf or town of the Chief, Sikoniela,
which consisted of numerous huts, with courts of reed fenc-
ing, just as the people, were bringing in the cattle in the even-
ing, and soon came in sight of the white chapel and mission-
house, where we met a hearty welcome from James Allison,
whose valuable wife was gone to Grahams Town on account
of her health. The people of Imparani are Mantatees. This
station is represented in the annexed cut.
Emparani, a aJSesUBau Station.
Originally, the Mantatees belonged to the Boperiming, or
Baparee, from whom they fled, about 130 years ago. On
leaving the main body of the nation, who are still residing to
the north-east, they settled on the Donkin River, and made
war with the adjacent Zoolu tribes ; who, as they became
conquered, blended with their conquerors, and thus changed
their language by mixing the Zoolu with the purer Sechuana.
They next removed towards Natal, nearly to the place where
Dingaan lately attacked the Boors. Here Matuani, a great
Bechuana warrior, fell upon them, but he was driven off by
Chaka, a Zoolu Chief. Subsequently, they fell upon Mo-
shesh ; they were afterwards attacked again by Matuani,
but they fled towards Lishuani, made a circuit in the night,
and got upon the mountains, where they defended themselves.
A continued succession of war and famine then ensued ; each
tribe carried off" and destroyed the cattle of the other ; the
people were afraid to leave their mountain-fastnesses to
cultivate the land, and the country was deluged with blood,
1839.] MANTATEE COUNTRY. 397
and bespread with human bones. Starvation drove many of
the Basutu to eat their own dead; and hence arose the dread-
ful system of cannibalism that, for some years, existed among
this people. Being confined to the mountains, without cattle
or grain, and impelled by hunger, they stole around the
neighbouring kraals in the night, surprised, killed, and ate
the inhabitants, until they gained such an appetite for human
flesh, as made them more terrible than the lion or the wolf.
In this state, the Missionaries found the tribes of this
part of Africa ; and at Imparani, several were now living who
escaped singly from such carnage, when all their relatives
were killed and devoured. Now, the land might be said to be
at peace, except at this one place ; for Sikonyela, or Sikon-
iela, who was not a converted man, still suffered himself,
occasionally, to be persuaded by wicked men among his peo-
ple, to make incursions on the adjacent tribes, one of which
he lately robbed of much cattle. The Christian converts
among his people, and many others, to the amount of one
third of the whole, refused, on this occasion, to accompany
him, and thus become partakers in this wickedness. There
are other sections of the Mantatees within forty miles of this
place, under three other Chiefs. To the south of the road,
on which we travelled to-day, there is likewise a consider-
able body of Sikoniela^s people, under a petty Chief named
Makomo.
21st. Most of the people at Imparani were sick with the
measles. The chapel, which will contain about 500 people, in
the way in which they sit upon the floor, was only occupied by
about 100 persons. Many of these were of the number who
became Christians in a recent awakening, when the whole
tribe seemed temporarily shaken, under the operation of di-
vine power. Several of the converts had been received as
members of the church, and others were " on trial." There
were sixteen young men who went out to teach in the adja-
cent villages, on First-day afternoons, in whom there was a
liveliness of zeal which it was cheering to witness. About
twenty-five pupils were in daily attendance at the school; the
number varied from 50 to 150 on First-days: sixteen could
read tolerably well. James Allison and his wife had to
398 iMPARANi. [7th mo.
attend to ever^^thing at this Station themselves, with only such
assistance as they could get from the natives ; they had con-
sequently, not heen able to carry out the school instruction
as they could have wished. — In the general congregation for
public worship, we had much to communicate in testimony
to the fundamental doctrines of the Gospel, and against war,
drunkenness, &c. Sikoniela was present most of the time.
Licentiousness prevails among these people in their uncon-
verted state ; polygamy and adultery are common. A con-
vert to the Gospel has much to give up, and to contend
against. In the evening, a meeting was held with the con-
verts ; among them was David Selo, the son of the Chief, a
hopeful young man, who could read and write, both in his
own language and in Dutch : he lived with James Allison,
and would soon begin to come into power among the people.
Three of the converts to Christianity here, died lately, in the
possession of a blessed hope of a glorious immortality, tes-
tifying to the love of God, and exhorting their children and
friends to give themselves to Christ. We visited a sick wo-
man, this evening, who said, that though she was very weak
in body, the Lord made her strong in heart.
James Allison and his wife had to contend with great
trials and difficulties at this place, but the Lord comforted
them greatly, by pouring out his Spirit upon the people ;
and the Gospel had gained a good report far into the interior.
A deputation from the Barapootsa, lately visited this sta-
tion, in the hope of obtaining a Missionary : they crossed
eight rivers, on their way to Imparani, in all of which there
were Sea-cows or Hippopotami, and Alligators. Some of
these rivers were large, and all were impassable with a wagon
in the rainy season. Dingaan was never able to conquer
these people, who may probably be 50,000 in number.
The deputation was ten days on the road, and reckoning
them to travel from twenty-five to thirty miles a day, the
distance they came would be 250 or 300 miles. Sometimes
they travelled at night, for fear of enemies. There is reason
to believe, that some of the tribes in that direction are
large. The Portuguese, from Delagoa Bay trade in clothing
with some of those contiguous to the Barapootsa.
1839.] MANTATEE COUNTRY. 399
The Mantatees cultivated a considerable quantity of land
in this neighbourhood. From the time that their grain came
up, they employed many of their children in herding their
cattle, to keep them off their cultivated ground, which is
universally unfenced. James Allison showed them the ad-
vantage of fencing their ground, by building a stone wall
around his own garden, which was in front of his house.
Outside of this he had a piece of land for corn, which was
also enclosed by a fence. — Maternal and conjugal affection
are sometimes strongly exhibited among the Bechuana tribes.
We heard of a mother, when driven by famine to the ex-
tremity of eating her own child, proposing that it should be
killed by a neighbour, and that she, in turn, would perform
the same painful office, in order that they might not have the
additional trial of destroying their own offspring. — In a case
at Imparani, in which a young man was shot by an enemy,
his wife lamented over him, and in despair, took, first her
various wares, and then her baby, and cast them over the
cliff, and lastly, she wrapped her own head in her karross,
and rushed over the precipice herself. — Self-denial is some-
times strongly exhibited by them. At the time when the
Basutu were beginning to eat their fellows, an old man said,
" This is wrong : I have not long to live, and my days had
better be shortened than that I should do this :" he there-
fore boldly met death by starvation. — Among the converts
to Christianity at Imparani, there was a man of great fidefity
and consistency of conduct, who had several times delivered
remarkable prophecies, and who had been baptized by the
name of Daniel. His first prophecy was delivered when he
was a little herdsman, and before the tribe to which he be-
longed had heard of such a people as the Korannas, or of
such weapons as guns. In his vision, which did not seem to
have been a sleeping dream, he saw, as if depicted in minia-
ture, brown men coming against the Mantatees, and carrying
off their cattle, by means of fire, against which they could
not stand. This he told to Sikoniela and the people, who,
up to that period, had been so successful in battle that they
were not ready to believe they could be conquered. They
thought the youth was becoming deranged, and proposed
400 iMPABANi. [7th mo.
binding him, lest he should do mischief; but from this he
persuaded them to desist. About a month afterwards the
Korannas came against the Mantatees, subdued them by-
means of guns, and carried off their cattle, which are their
wealth. Some time after this occurrence, the youth told
Sikoniela that, in another vision, he had seen white men, who
were men of peace, coming among the people ; that these
white men would do them good, and by them they would be-
come prosperous with their cattle. This was about two
months before the arrival, in the country, of the missionaries
with the people from Bootchap and Old Plaatberg, who now
form the stations of Lishuani, Umpukani, Plaatberg and
Thaba Unchu. By this means the way was opened in the
mind of Sikoniela to receive a missionary, through the
medium of whom, the Mantatees became greatly benefited,
both in regard to cattle and corn, as well as in many other
important respects. Sikoniela now told the youth that he
should live with him, and become his prophet ; but he sig-
nified, that the seeing of these visions was not at his own
command, and he would not be one of Sikoniela^s prophets.
When J. Allison came to reside at Imparani, the young
man would not remain with the Chief, but went to live
with him : he afterwards accompanied J. Allison to Gra-
hams Town ; while there, he had another vision, in which
he foresaw that the Lord, of whom he had now heard, would
pour out his Spirit on the people of his own nation, and that
many of them should be turned to the Lord. This was ful-
filled soon after their return ; the young man was himself one
of those who came early, under the converting and quicken-
ing power of divine grace. He now said, that he thought his
visions were from the Lord, for Satan would not have wrought
to prepare the way of the Lord among the people ; he also
observed, that the first prediction was opposed to the good-
will of the Chief and the people, and hazardous to his own
safety; but that the Mantatee prophets, who spake only their
own imaginations, always prophesied smooth things. The
manner in which the fulfilment of the last prediction com-
menced, was remarkable ; the whole case affords an illustra-
tion of the fact, that the Most High still condescends to the
1839.] MANTATEE COUNTRY. 401
state in which mankind are found, notwithstanding the scep-
ticism that exists in the present day, among many learned
Christians, on the subject of immediate revelation.
Among the servants living at Imparani at this time, were
a man and his wife, who, with a sister, were formerly in
slavery among the Boors, from whom they ran away, having
been so greatly oppressed, that the man said, he would rather
die than return. They reached Imparani in eighteen days,
in a very exhausted state. On seeing them approach in com-
pany with a native, a strong impression was made upon James
Allison's mind, that he ought to receive them, and accord-
ingly he took them into his house. The single woman re-
turned into the Colony ; but it was with the conversion of
the other woman that the awakening already alluded to, began.
She came under so powerful a conviction of her sinful condi-
tion, as to be brought to the brink of the grave, by the anguish
of her soul. After her mournful condition had become ex-
tensively known, the Lord spoke peace to her troubled mind,
gave her to feel the forgiveness of her sins, for Christ's sake,
filled her mouth with praises, and restored her again to health.
The people marked the change, and began to inquire, " What
do we know of this salvation ?" Conviction spread, and the
question, " What shall I do to be saved ?" became one of ex-
tensive interest, both here and in the surrounding country.
The man also came under the influence of religious principle,
and both he and his wife became truly valuable helpers in
this establishment.
At a period subsequent to our visit to the Mantatees, a
violent persecution was raised against some of those who had
become Christians, which the influence of the missionary was
not able to repress, till after several of them had sealed their
testimony with their blood. They were accused of sorcery,
this being a common charge against all persons whose lives
or property were intended to be taken. Three of them were
at one time summoned before the Chief, who condemned
them to death. Having been conducted to the place of exe-
cution, they were ordered to be tied, but this they said
was unnecessary, for they were not afraid to die ; being
guilty of no other crime than that of serving the Lord. The
c c
402 iMPARANi. [7th mo.
executioners were struck with the calmness and serenity that
illuminated their countenances, and turned away affrighted,
declaring that they would not dip their hands in innocent
blood. The irritated Chief then took an assagai and plunged
it into their breasts.
Another case of divine condescension, though a less striking
one than some of those before related, may also be adduced
here: — There was at this time, living in James Allison's
family, a female servant, who was formerly a slave. She
knew nothing of her descent ; she was brought out of the
Colony by a Boor, from whom she ran away. She came to
Imparani, and inquired if she might work for a sheep-skin,
to make a garment. A sheep-skin is not an uncommon
covering for people of this class, in remote situations. On
being asked, if she had any friends, her reply was, " No, I
do not know that I have a friend in the world. " She was
received as a domestic, and with all the other servants in the
family became converted to God, at the time in which he
condescended to pour out his Spirit upon this place. A pi-
ous young man from near the Kuruman, the only one who
ventured to accompany James Allison, when he came hither,
had had a person selected by his mother, for his wife, accord-
ing to their custom. On hearing that his mother had made
such a choice for him, he prayed, that if the young woman
would not be hkely to help him in righteousness, he might
be disgusted with her on seeing her, and his prayer was so
answered that he rejected her. For this he had reason to be
very thankful, as she turned out badly. He had an impression
afterwards that a suitable wife would be provided for him on
this, then unhopeful spot. This young man, seeing the be-
nighted state of the mind of the poor runaway slave, prayed
the Lord to enlighten her ; his prayer in this case also was
answered. He now believed, that he saw in her, the pro-
vision of the Lord for him ; he therefore proposed marriage
to her, and was accepted. They were at the time of our
visit, happy helpmeets in things temporal and spiritual.
Notwithstanding the Gospel had made such triumphs here,
the Chief, Sikoniela, was not one who understood that
" righteousness exalteth a nation." He suffered himself to be
1839.] MANTATEE COUNTRY. 403
persuaded by bad men in his tribe, to form commandoes to rob
others of their cattle, hoping to buy horses and guns with
the booty, and thus to become powerful. On a certain occa-
sion, he arrayed a number of his men in the costume of the
Boors, made an incursion upon the Zoolu Chief, Dingaan,
and carried off 500 head of cattle. In returning, the men
inadvertently came upon a camp of the Boors, to whom they
said, they were bringing the cattle from a post, or station,
belonging to Sikoniela, and they were suflFered to pass quietly.
The cattle were traced by Dingaan's people, to the Boor's
camp, and he sent out a commando against the Boors ; but
the commando, on discovering the strength of the Boors,
returned for reinforcement without attacking them. The
Boors, in the mean time, having heard of Dingaan's hostile
intentions, availed themselves of the interval, to inform Din-
gaan who the thief was, and he, unreasonably enough, put
them upon proving their own innocence by recovering the
cattle. Sikoniela had been warned by James Allison, of the
probability, that, by this wicked act, he would bring the
wrath of the Boors upon himself ; but he would not believe
that they would find out his knavery. A few days after this,
he informed J. Allison, that some English were in the neigh-
bourhood, and invited him to join him in a visit to them.
To this, J. Allison consented, thinking they might be travel-
lers needing assistance ; but on coming suddenly upon them,
he, at once, discovered the mistake. The Boors concealed
the object of their visit, told Sikoniela that they were come
to buy land from him, and thus wickedly entrapped him with
lies, notwithstanding their pretensions to the fear of God.
Sikoniela invited them to his place, and they came near to
the mission-house, and outspanned their wagons.
On the following day, when Sikoniela visited them, they
seized him, and put him in irons ; his eyes were then opened,
and he seemed fully alive to his situation. The Boors de-
manded the 500 head of cattle, with all the horses and guns
of the people, for his ransom. The people brought them out
slowly, and were with some difficulty restrained from burning
the mission-house over the heads of the Boors, who were about
forty in number, when they had taken shelter in it, in
c c 2
404 iMPARANi. [7th mo.
inclement weather. Sikoniela began to fear, that they would
not release him when the cattle and guns were given up, and
he asked J. Allison's opinion on this point. J. Allison re-
plied, that the Boors professed to be Christians, and that if
they were so in reality, they would certainly be true to their
word ; he also informed Pieter Ratief, the captain of the
Boors, and his two sons, of what answer he had given.
Though they had made themselves parties in the lie about
the land, they still seemed to have some respect to the fear
of God, and they overruled the objections of the others
against Sikoniela's liberation. The Boors returned to Din-
gaan with the cattle ; he inquired for the thief, and was told
that he was liberated ; he pretended to receive the Boors cour-
teously, and some time after, prepared an entertainment, with
dancing, for them, on the Sabbath. This, notwithstanding
their pretensions to Christianity, they attended, and on the
following morning, at an unexpected moment, he fell upon
them, and destroyed them.
This occurred at the time that several American Missionaries,
and Francis Owen, belonging to the Episcopal Church of Eng-
land, were in Dingaan's country, which they immediately left,
not considering themselves safe, and finding little opening
for their labours. Francis Owen was living very near to
Dingaan's house, and was assisted by Wallace Hewitson ; he
generally had Pieter Ratief among his auditors on First-days,
and visited him on Second-days. F. Owen was grieved that
Ratief had absented himself, to be present at Dingaan's un-
godly entertainment, and while deliberating whether he should
manifest his displeasure by foregoing his Second-day's visit,
or do it in some other way, his attention was diverted from
the subject by a book, and occupied till a man apprized him
of the massacre of the Boors. He would probably have
fallen among them, in the confusion, had he gone to them
at that time, as he would have done, had it not been
for this overruHng of Him who " knoweth how to de-
liver the godly out of temptations. " — Before leaving Impa-
rani, Pieter Ratief pressed J. Allison to preach to them ; to
this he reluctantly consented, but dealt faithfully with them,
and forewarned them that judgments might fall upon them.
1839.] MANTATEB COUNTRY. 405
23rd. Accompanied by James Allison, we called, at an
early hour, at a village close by that of Sikoniela, to see
his mother, who ruled jointly with him, and from whom
the tribe took its name of Mantatees : her eldest child was
a daughter, and named Ntatees, from which circumstance, the
old Queen took the name of Mantatees, or Mother of Ntatees.
She was rather a young-looking woman for her age, which
could not be less than fifty. It was difficult to find her so-
ber, except early in a morning, as she was much given to
drinking the native beer, which is a sore evil among these
tribes. Many of her people were assembled about her, and
we had an opportunity of bearing testimony among them, to
the blessings of the Gospel, both temporal and spiritual, and
to the awful doom that aAvaits those who resist the offers of
divine grace. This doctrine, and that of the necessity of
peace to prosperity, we had several opportunities of enforcing
while among the Mantatees.
In conversing with James Allison on the consciousness of
sin among the Mantatees, he told us that they had often, in
the pride of their hearts, denied having any such conscious-
ness, till he inquired if they had not been guilty of an act of
gross immorality, of the existence of which amongst them,
they had no idea that he was aware; on being asked this ques-
tion, they laid their hands upon their mouths ; and from this
point, he began to speak to them of their need of a Saviour.
After halting for a short time on our way to Umpukani,
we parted from James Allison, in the feeling of much love.
Having been brought up in the Colony, he had some ad-
vantages over many others, in his knowledge of the habits
of the people, and in his skill in managing wagons and oxen.
These qualifications combined with an industrious disposi-
tion, and adroitness in building, carpentering, gardening, &c.
contributed much to the comfort of his own family, and
to the advancement of the civihzation of the restless and bar-
barous people amongst whom he was labouring, and amongst
whom he took up his residence, under such a sense of the
constraining influence of the love of Christ, as he described
to be " a burning desire to do them good. "
Imparani is not considered to be much more than 200
c c 3
406 MANTATEE COUNTRY. [7th mO.
miles from Port Natal, but in travelling thither with wagons,
a circuitous route has to be taken, to cross the intervening
mountains by a pass called the Drakkenberg. At the time of
our visit to Imparani, hostilities had again been commenced
between Dingaan and the Boors ; and under these circum-
stances, we did not apprehend it to be our duty to visit them.
Subsequently, a section of the Zoolus joined the Boors
against Dingaan, and he was supposed to have been destroyed
by some of the tribes on whom he fell back, and over whom
he had formerly tyrannised. From aU we could learn the
Natal country is fertile. The mountains seen from Imparani
in that direction appeared to be woody.
CHAPTER XXV.
"Wild Animals. — Umpukani. — Cave. — Makwatling. — Rheumatic Fever. — Volca-
nic Moimtains. — Hunting Party. — Lions. — Thaba Unchu. — Barolongs. — La-
bours of T. L. Hodgson. — Sifonello and his People. — Migration of the Baro-
longs. — Tauani. — Moroko. — Native Teachers. — Schools. — Printing-press. —
Royalty. — Vermin. — Trade. — Missionary Labours. — Costume. — Karrosses. —
Complexion. — Food. — Government. — Civil Arts. — Boors' Marriages. — Conde-
scension. — Congregations. — Interdiction of Spirituous Liquors. — Servants. —
Boesak takes the Measles. — Traders Hut. — Untoward Scotchman. — Barolong
Guide. — Journey. — Herds of Wild Animals. — Bushmen. — Hospitable People.
Bethany. — Basaltic Hills. — Korannas. — Beads. — Koranna Christian. — Bush-
men's Kraal. — Bows and Arrows. — Boor and Bushwoman's Children. — Ko-
ranna Villages. — Indolence. — Uses of Cow Dung. — Language. — Death. — Huts.
— Cold. — Chapel. — Missionaries. — Wives of Missionaries. — Error of Paris
and Berlin Missionary Boards. — Measles. — Letting of Fountains. — Boors. —
Fish. — Rond Fontein. — Friendly Boor. — Journey to Philippolis. — Transfer of
Huts. — Emigrant Boors.
7th mo. 23rd. On out way from Imparani, we again saw
many electric columns, and we again fell in with herds of
Hartebeests, Brindled Gnus, and the Zebras of the Plains ;
the two latter we only saw in this part of the country. —
We were pleasantly met at Umpukani by George Bingham,
from Lishuani, and Eli Wiggil, from Mirametsu. John Ed-
wards, the resident Missionary, was at Grahams Town on
account of the ill health of his wife. Umpukani is a Basutu
Station, at which three families of Bastaards, or Newlanders,
also resided. The coloured people of mixed descent, at the
Wesleyan Stations in this part of the country, are often called
Newlanders ; the country itself is also often called Nieuwland.
The Basutu villages in the neighbourhood are numerous.
Twenty Basutu and six Bastaards were members of the Wes-
leyan Church here. We could not collect many of the people
on account of the prevalence of the measles ; the difficulty
408
UMPUKANI.
[7th mo.
was also increased by the want of means of communicating
notice. There was no bell on the station, and no substitute
for one could be found, such as the rim of a wheel, to strike,
or a wagon-whip, to crack. We had, however, a religious
opportunity with a small number, a coloured man, brought
by George Bingham, from Lishuani, interpreting. The Sta-
tion ofUmpukani is represented in the accompanying cut.
SSmpufeani, a JSRJsIcpn Station.
The mission-house and chapel, at this place, are under one
roof ; they form a commodious, neat building, of raw brick,
and are whitewashed, as are also the outbuildings. The fruit-
trees in the garden were the most grown of any we saw on
this side of the Orange River. At a short distance from the
Station, there is a remarkable hill, with a rock projecting
from one side, and a rocky cap ; under the latter there is a
horizontal cavern, scarcely fifteen inches high. In this place,
there are the remains of several skeletons, which, not many
years ago, were entire ; they seem to have been those of per-
sons who had taken refuge here, in time of war, and who
were prevented from coming out again, by their enemies
placing stones before the opening of the cave. When the
Missionaries first came hither, the country around was
strewed with human bones ; though many of them have been
washed into the rivers by floods, numbers are yet to be seen.
1839.] BECHUANA COUNTRY. 409
in many places, proving the devastation of human life in the
wars of by-gone years.
This part of South Africa is principally watered by thunder-
rains which fall in summer ; they are so heavy and frequent
as not only to sweep loose materials off the surface of the
ground, but they make deep fissures such as are represented
in the border of the enclosed ground in the view of Umpu-
kani, and in some of the other illustrations in this volume:
they keep the Orange River in a state of flood during
the greater part of the summer months. As these rains fall
upon ground heated by the sun, the temperature of the water
of the river in the summer months is often about 90°.
24th. We returned to Makwatling. On arriving there,
we found Francis Daumas suifering from rheumatic fever, the
effect of cold taken on the 19th ; his wife had been anxious
for our return, fearing danger from the attack, and being far
from medical advice. I ventured to administer such reme-
dies as they had by them, and he obtained a little relief. — In
the course of our journey, after leaving Thaba Bossiou, my
attention was often directed to the formation of the numerous
isolated, tabular, and peaked mountains, of this part of Af-
rica. The country itself, is an elevated plain, on a formation
of sandstone, less dense in the grain, and of a yellower colour
than that of the primitive range on the south coast. The
surface soil is a sandy loam, covered with grass. The mountains
are about 400 feet above the plain ; they have probably been
raised by volcanic force. There are narrow veins of decom-
posing basalt, issuing from the tops of all I had the opportunity
of examining. These generally originate from near the margins
of the tabular mountains, and from the tops of the peaked ones;
but one, behind the mission-house at Imparani, comes from
the further side of the mountain. About 500 yards south of
this, there is another, which has widened, as the force of the
accumulating lava, behind, has urged it about a quarter of a
mile into the plain. One nearer Makwatling, runs about a mile
into the plain, continuing narrow. These veins of basalt,
which I conclude must have been streams of lava, are very
superficial, and much decomposed and broken; a dark, rough,
oxidized crust, generally covers the stone. Some of them
410 THABA UNCHU. [7th mo.
pass down narrow kloofs, others form prominent ridges, and
in many instances, the upper portion occupies a narrow pass
through the sandstone, and the lower portion is prominent.
Generally, they form the only points of access to the tops of
the mountains, the upper sandstone rocks of which, are per-
pendicular or projecting. In many instances, the sandstone
appears to have been fused by the lava, and to have cooled
into a sort of Touchstone. No active volcano is known in
South Africa, but north of Imparani, there is a marsh, out
of fissures in which, smoke and light flame are said to arise ;
another of a similar kind is said to exist in the country con-
tiguous to the upper part of the Hart River ; there are hot
springs in various places : but probably neither these, nor
the flames from the marshes are of volcanic origin.
26th. A pious man, of the Basutu nation, accompanied
us as guide to Thaba Unchu, distant about forty miles from
Makwatling. Our road lay along grassy vales, the country
assuming a more basaltic character as we advanced. In
crossing the road, leading to Port Natal, we saw twelve
wagons of emigrating Boors, with some large flocks and herds,
proceeding in that direction. In the course of the journey,
we met a man from Plaatberg and another from Thaba Unchu,
seeking strayed horses and cattle. From the former, we
learned, that the hunting party from Plaatberg had returned ;
that they had all had the measles, and had lost, by Lions,
two cows and a horse, which were of half the value of all
the game they had taken ! These hunting excursions are
considered very inimical to the temporal prosperity, as well
as to the piety of the Griquas. We crossed a few rivulets,
having numerous pitfalls on their margins for catching such
game as might come to drink. These pitfalls are too narrow
at the top, to admit of Gnus or Antelopes leaping out ; a
pointed stake is sometimes placed at the bottom of them, by
which an animal falling in, is generally disabled. One of
these brooks is named the Lion's River. When T. H. Seph-
ton, of Plaatberg, stopped at this spot, a few years ago, one
of the men, who had gone out to see if any game were in
the pitfalls, came from the bank of the Lion River, with
great speed, crying out for fear, apprehending that lions were
1839.] BECHUANA COUNTRY. 411
following him : on his asserting that he had seen some among
the reeds below the bank, the party prepared their guns, and
went to the place. A Lion and Lioness sprang out on the op-
posite side, and retreated ; but another Lioness remained ;
this they shot ; they also brought away three cubs, which they
sent into Albany, as presents to their friends. Two of the
cubs were ultimately purchased by a person who was making
a collection of the animals of this country, to send to Ame-
rica. The other Lioness was seen several times, while the
party were firing at her fellow, coming just within sight of
the spot.
About the same period, one of the natives, living in this
neighbourhood, went one morning to see if any game had
been entrapped in the pitfalls. The weather was cold, and
he had pulled his karross up, so as to enclose his head. Just
as he was getting down the precipitous bank, to the flat be-
low, a Lion that had stolen upon him unperceived, caught
his head in the karross, between its paws. The man dropped
out of his karross, and taking advantage of the moment in
which the Lion shut its eyes, he slipped away among
the reeds below, and got off. Soon after, he met a wagon,
the people belonging to which had guns ; they returned
with him to the spot, hoping to shoot the Lion, but it was
gone, and had left the empty karross ; this the owner took,
and went his way. Within the last year, a young Lion
walked into one of the towns at Thaba Unchu. The na-
tives of this part of Africa keep great numbers of dogs,
which are generally so lean that their ribs are very pro-
minent. A multitude of these turned out after the royal
intruder ; they chased him into the plain below the towns,
(where he is represented in the annexed etching of this inter-
esting spot,) and aided by the people, they killed him. Lions
are said, always to shut their eyes instinctively, on seizing
their prey, to avoid injury.
The Wesleyan settlement of Thaba Unchu, is situated near
the foot of a mountain of that name, which signifies Moun-
tain of Night. It is the largest assemblage of human habita-
tions in this part of Africa : it comprises two large Barolong
towns and a few smaller villages, scarcely separated from each
412 THABA UNCHU. [7th mo.
other. The mission premises, comprising a house and chapel,
are situated between the two towns. Here, at the close
of a fatiguing day, we met a kind welcome from Richard
Giddy and his wife.
27th. In company with Richard Giddy, the Missionary, we
walked over the respective towns and villages, forming the
missionary station : the people inhabiting them belonged to
different Chiefs, who received us courteously, and expressed
satisfaction at seeing teachers come among them. This feel-
ing may well exist in the bosom of these people ; they were
poor, and had only thirty-five houses, when my valued friend,
Thomas Laidman Hodgson, now of Cape Town, first com-
menced his labours among them, under Sifonello, or Sibunello,
at Makwasse, a place about 150 miles north of this. For
some time, they were unsettled, but at length, they went with
their Missionary to Plaatberg, now called Old Plaatberg, near
the Vaal, or Yellow River, where they remained a few years,
and increased, chiefly by others who had been scattered about
the country, settling down among them. About four years
and a half since, they emigrated from thence, under the direc-
tion of a Missionary named James Archbell, and settled at
this place. From this period, they accumulated rapidly.
The towns and villages include more than 2,000 houses,
and 9,000 people. The houses of the Barolongs are circular,
with erect mud-walls, and thatched roofs ; they are enclosed
within circular fences, formed of the briery stems of a thorny
species of shrubby Asparagus. These dwellings are snug
and warm in cold weather ; when it is warm, the people sit
outside. The children often sleep separately, in little
conical buildings resembling ovens. There are fourteen
villages in the vicinity of Thaba Unchu, most of them
Basutu ; the population of these may be 3,000, making with
those on the Station, a community of about 12,000 within
the range of Missionary influence.
Tauani, one of the Chiefs residing here, was formerly a great
warrior ; he had several contests with Moselekatse ; these two
Chiefs, with Sikoniela as a third, were the great terror of this
part of Africa. On the power of Tauani being broken, he
settled here, as an ally of Moroko, the principal Chief at
1839.] BECHUANA COUNTRY. 413
this place. Motsigare, the eldest son, and principal successor of
Tauani, was also living here, as well as his second son, Molama,
who also had considerable influence; the latter had come un-
der the power of the Gospel, and was a local-preacher. There
were likewise two other natives, Mutla and Maperi, filling this
important office. Without the liberty of exercising spiritual
gifts being extended to the native converts, there would be
little hope of the Gospel ever making much progress in this
part of the world. The Wesleyan church here, had, at this
time, about 100 members, inclusive of about twenty inqui-
rers. Several of the members, besides those named, took
a part in the religious labours of the place and neighbour-
hood, in exhortation, prayer and pastoral instruction. The
chapel was built of raw brick and plastered ; its form was
that of a T, the top and shaft being each eighty feet long and
thirty wide ; it was calculated to hold about 1,000 persons.
A school for adults was held daily, in a room in an unfinished
house, that also accommodated printing apparatus, &c. The
pupils varied from sixty to seventy. A school was likewise held
with a more juvenile class, the attendance of which was from
forty to sixty. Like other Bechuana tribes, among whom a
taste for reading had been awakened, the Barolongs were
diligent in learning, when at home, as well as when at school;
and the Missionary here being a printer, and supplied with a
good printing-press, was able to furnish them with lessons.
In this part of the world, royalty is exhibited under cir-
cumstances far removed from the state and pomp with which
it is invested in civilized nations. The side of the cattle-
kraal is the common place of state discussions ; — to-day, while
having an interview with a noble Chief in such a situation,
I observed, that one of his counsellors was occupying himself
in picking vermin off the Chief's karross ! It is true, that
intruders of this kind find their way into better company in
warm climates, than in England ; but to such of the natives
as are of cleanly habits, they are a great annoyance. One of
the first sounds to be heard in a morning at some places, on
this side of the colonial boundary, is the beating of fleas and
lice out of the karrosses in which the people have slept.
Many Boors had located themselves upon the Modder
414 THABA UNCHU. [7th mo.
Rivier, Mud River , in the vicinity of Thaba Unchu. Moroko
and they stood in mutual awe of each other, and thus both
were preserved in peace, and on friendly terms. Hitherto,
the residence of the Boors in the neighbourhood, had been
an advantage to the Barolongs, who are a trading people.
They bought com of the more agricultural tribes, particularly
the Basutu, and sold it to the Boors for a good profit ; some
of them hired themselves as servants to the Boors, obtaining,
a cow for about eight months^ labour. When the Baro-
longs removed hither, they purchased an inheritance in the
land of Moshesh : he received the native tribes willingly, but
was unwilling that the Boors should dwell within his terri-
tory ; he said, that he would encourage three godly farmers,
who would teach his people improved modes of agriculture,
to settle in his country, but no more than three. The
people here were peaceably disposed, and sufficiently nu-
merous to discourage the kind of attack that was frequent in
former days, from other native tribes, and by which the land
in this part of the country, was desolated. The scattered
people, finding that peace prevailed where there were Mis-
sionaries, gathered together around them ; and with few ex-
ceptions, they quietly cultivated the land, and tended their
cattle, while their instructors acquired their language, and
endeavoured to spread among them a knowledge of the Gospel.
Polygamy was growing disreputable here, notwithstanding
Moroko and many others were yet polygamists. On the
decease of near relatives, the party inheriting the property,
inherited also the wives. Lately, one of the Christian con-
verts, named Garinyani, declined inheriting some property
on this account. — All the Bechuana tribes clothe themselves
in dressed or tanned skins, generally with their fur on ; a
few of the men have adopted trousers, but their native dress
is a light piece of skin, effectually preventing the disgusting
exhibitions prevalent among the Cafi"ers. The women have
a sort of petticoat, and both sexes wear neat karrosses, with
the fiu- side inwards, except on the upper margin, where the
skin of the heads of the animals, of which these garments
are made, is turned over, so as to shew exteriorly. These
karrosses are thrown over the shoulders as cloaks, and are
1839.] . BECHUANA COUNTRY. 415
very comfortable garments in cold weather : they are beau-
tifully sewed with fine sinews, every stitch being knotted,
and every piece fitted into its proper place ; all the little
holes are also carefully filled up. The karrosses are about
6 feet wide at the top, exclusive of an appendage at the corn-
ers ; and they are about 5 feet long ; the bottom is usually
made of the skins of the legs and feet of the animals, and is
scalloped, and neatly bound with white leather; the skins
forming the whole, which are about thirty in number, are
tanned with acacia-bark. Those we noticed at Thaba Unchu,
were of the skins of the Jackal and the Coney. The hides of
Quaggas stretched by sticks, so as to form square bags, and
supported above the ground with four poles, sufficiently high
to be out of the way of jackals, form their tan-pits.
The Barolongs are not so dark as some of the other Bechu-
ana tribes, but they are a shade darker than the Korannas,
who are the darkest of the Hottentot race. Originally this
country seems to have been occupied by the Bushman Hot-
tentots, of whom there are still many groups in the moun-
tains. Neither they nor the Bechuanas limit themselves to
what White Men call Game ; Quaggas and Zebras are favour-
ite food ; the flesh of a Jackal or a Lion is not refused by
some of the Bechuanas, but they reject fish ;the Gaffers reject
the flesh of the African-hog; only Hottentots who have been
among White Men, eat these animals. — A system of govern-
ment prevails among Bechuana tribes, like that of captainship
of tens, and fifties, and hundreds. Every house is thus under
some kind of government; affairs of importance come regu-
larly to the Chief in council, and there is a sort of advocate
or attorney-general to bring them forward. — These tribes
speak the Sechuana language in greater or less degrees of
purity, and they have considerable knowledge of civil arts
and agriculture. They smelted and worked metals, made
coarse earthenware and baskets, tanned skins, and made kar-
rosses, before they had any knowledge of Europeans.
28th. In the forenoon, my companion was largely engaged
in gospel labour, with a congregation of about 300 persons,
Richard Giddy interpreting into Sechuana. — The prejudices
of Boors residing within a few hours' ride of this place, upon
416 THABA UNCHU. [7th mo.
the Modder River, were rapidly declining. Two couples
came here to-day to be married : they would only be married
in the house ; though they sometimes came far for this pur-
pose, they often would not speak on these occasions, but
merely signified their consent or assent to what was said by
nodding. The parents of these couples shook hands with
several of the Coloured People, and the young ones with us,
after having seen us shake hands with a number of Korannas
and others of darker complexion. — In the afternoon I ex-
pressed the exercise of my mind on behalf of the people
who had come under the influence of Christian principle.
In the evening, we had an interview in R. Giddy's house,
with a company of Newlanders residing in the neighbourhood,
who understood Dutch, and were descended of white and
coloured parents. They had had the Gospel preached to
them for a considerable number of years, and not without
effect ; but there was an unsettledness in their character, un-
favourable to practical piety. I could not but fear, that they,
with many others, had suffered loss, by being strongly pressed
to the use of what are called Means, for growth in grace,
instead of being sufficiently directed to the witness and teach-
ing of the Holy Spirit, manifested in the secret of the heart ;
and to the practice of self-denial, under the teaching of this
Spirit, by which alone true communion with Christ, the spi-
ritual Head of his church, as well as the Propitiation for sin,
is known. Those who enjoy the most of this communion,
will most truly esteem all means of edification that are con-
sistent with the Gospel; but where means are too exclusively
pressed, the end for which they ought to be employed, is not
properly kept in view, and many of the people seem to
miss it, while they adopt or retain something of the form of
religion, and are not very backward in expression. There
was much freedom felt in labouring with these people ; and
our plainness appeared to be well received. — Moroko was pre-
sent at the meetings in the morning and afternoon ; he was
favourable to Missionaries, esteeming them very highly on
account of the temporal blessings derived through them by
his nation : he had forbidden the sale of spirituous hquors
at Thaba Unchu, and had lately declared the wagon of a
1839.] BECHUANA COUNTRY. 417
Dutchman who brought some, to be a forfeit ; but he returned
it, on the man^s publicly asking pardon for having broken the
law of the place, and for having lied, by saying he had none,
when taxed with having given some away. Moroko had also
forbidden the travelling of wagons on First-days.
29th. The thermometer was now usually below the freez-
ing point, at night, and the wind was very cutting in the
day-time. — Our attendant, Boesak, had taken the measles,
and we were obliged to leave him under the care of Richard
and Mary Ann Giddy, who had a large, young family, and
found it difficult to keep servants. After the servants got
a little instruction, they usually married, and at no time
could their services be calculated upon with certainty ; some-
times they would absent themselves for a day or two, with-
out notice. It was painful to us, thus to leave one who had
been faithful to us, and whom we esteemed as a christian
brother ; but we had the satisfaction of learning subsequently,
that he recovered, and after visiting his parents, returned to
the Kat River in safety.
The people here being only just recovered from the mea-
sles, it was with difficulty we obtained another attendant ; but
one being provided, we left Thaba Unchu, in company with a
young man casually there, and travelled about nine miles on
the way to Bethany, stopping at a place where William Chris-
tian and Susanna Bauer, a young Dutch couple, received us
kindly, in a hartebeest hut ; they provided us with a tent to
sleep in, and afforded us all the attention that their circum-
stances admitted. W. C. Bauer was engaged in trading with
the Boors, sojourning on the Sand and Modder Rivers, on
which there was grassy country, where many of them found
pasturage for their sheep and cattle : he also traded with the
native tribes.
30th. Rain, with lightning and thunder, came on in the
night, and disturbed our tent, by throwing down the ridge-
pole. We were favoured to escape without injury, and suc-
ceeded in replacing it, so as to maintain a good shelter from
the wet and cold. About ten o'clock in the forenoon the
weather became more moderate, and we prepared to proceed
on our journey ; when all was ready, our guide refused to
D D
418 CAFFEB RIVER. [7th mO.
go, alleging, it was too cold. Expostulation was in vain,
and we reluctantly abandoned our project. A Scotch trader,
who happened to be here, began to handle the young man
roughly, but this we would not suffer ; he seized the Baro-
long by the throat, shook him, and declared, that if he were
in our place, he would throw him into the river, if he would
not proceed. This we could not but regard as an exhibition
of that untowardness, which is but too frequently practised
by those, who, as they profess to be civilized, and to be
Christians, ought to exhibit gentler conduct. Perhaps no
class of men are more untoward, when out of the reach of
the law, than those who have lived in the habitual rejection
of the Gospel, while professing to be Christians. This
man was one who had argued against temperance principles,
declaring that a little spirits would do no harm. Soon after
he used this argument, he was evidently half intoxicated ;
and now, the excitement from liquor was sufficiently obvious
to be noticed by the Barolong, who asked him in Dutch,
why he interfered with him, seeing that himself was drunken!
The Barolong left us, and returned to Thaba Unchu on foot.
We felt less reluctant to let him go than we otherwise might
have done, because his knowledge of the way appeared doubt-
ful, and he could not ride without difficulty, not being used
to horseback. The neighbouring mountains were covered with
snow ; though there were gleams of sunshine, the coloured
people in the employment of the Bauers were very reluctant
to go out, even for food or water.
31st. I went out early to look for the horses, which were
not easy to trace after the rain, especially in a grassy country
like this. Many antelopes, of the more solitary species, started
on hearing my foot, as the day dawned ; as I missed the
horses, we did not get mounted before ten o'clock. We then
set forward for Bethany, by ourselves, with six horses, having
ascertained that the road was good, well tracked, and easy to
find. Africa, in the parts in which we had travelled, was
generally far from being a "trackless wilderness;" the tracks
were often so numerous, that it was difficult to keep the right
one. We reached the CafFer River at half-past one, and
stopped an hour, having called at a Boor's encampment, and
1839.] GRIQUA COUNTRY. 419
spoken to a party with two wagons, on the road, and passed
four places where Boors were living in wagons, and feeding
their cattle at a distance. The country continued covered
with grass, mostly of a sour character, and it was now brown
from the cold. It was depastured by herds of Gnus of
from 30 to 200 each ; Hartebeests and Blesboks were in
larger numbers, and Springboks in countless thousands.
Before we had passed one herd, another came in view, so
that our journey was greatly enlivened by the interesting
sight. Blue Cranes, Vultures and Crows were also numerous.
While we were dining, some of the Gnus came and laid down
within gun-shot, perfectly safe, as we were unarmed. Two
Bushmen, with their bows, also joined us, inquiring for to-
bacco, which we could not supply ; but being received in a
kind manner, and treated with a morsel of food, they seemed
well pleased.
From the CafFer River, the grass became sweet but less
abundant, the country changing to an argillaceous character.
Just as it was becoming dark, we thought we saw something
in the form of a White-man's dwelling, not far from the
road, and made for it, hoping to ascertain, whether, after
riding about forty-five miles, we were still in the right path.
It proved to be the hartebeest hut of a Boor, who satisfied
us in regard to the road, and put the usual questions, as to
our names, object in travelling, &c. All these inquiries were
duly answered, and we were about to turn the heads of our
horses again to the road, when his wife, who had received a
tract gratefully, suggested that it would soon be so dark as
to endanger our losing the way, and proposed that we should
remain with them aU night. To this, we willingly consented,
and speedily off-saddled, and knee-haltering the horses, turned
them loose to graze. The names of our host and hostess
were Solomon and Adriana Katharina Norgi ; they were the
parents of nine children, five of whom were married and
living at a distance. Their house presented no attractions in
regard to cleanliness; but it was the abode of hospitality, and
in some measure, a shelter from the cold. It was built of
sticks and reeds, and plastered with clay and cow-dung. The
door reached to within a foot of the top of the aperture that
D D 2
420 A boor's hut. [7th mo.
it partially closed. The furniture consisted of a low bed-
stead ; two wagon-chests, that served as a table; two folding-
stools, a chair, a komfoor, for the good woman, who was
without shoes, to set her feet upon, a few iron cooking-pots,
and one with a hole in its side, that stood in the middle of
the floor, and contained a little fire of wood ; also a kettle, a
gun, a few smaller items, and a parcel of skins, on which the
children slept.
These people had left the Colony about a year. The wo-
man was unwilling to go far, lest her children should not be
properly baptized or married ; she was only forty years old,
but her husband, fiftj^-four. Finding here a vacant place, and
food for their cattle, they had wisely halted, and had erected
the hut, with a few outbuildings, and a screen of reeds that
sheltered their cooking-fire, which a Hottentot youth attended.
Tanned Antelope-skins formed the chief material of the cloth-
ing of the man and boys. Bread with a little beef, of which
we had a small quantity remaining, of the provision made
for us by our Missionary friends at Thaba Unchu, was a
great treat to them, as was to us, a good mess of stewed
Gnu's flesh, some boiled CaiFer-corn, and a little coffee,
without sugar or milk, the cows being dry at this time of the
year, and the sugar expended. The evening was spent in
conversation and reading, around their little fire. They had
not a copy of the Scriptures, but the woman was well ac-
quainted with their contents, and manifested some religious
sensibility. We were glad to be able to furnish them with
a Dutch New Testament, and a few tracts and other little
things, as an acknowledgment of their kindness. A rush-
mat was spread on the floor for us to sleep upon ; over this,
we laid a Mackintosh tarpawling, and wrapping ourselves in
our blankets and karrosses, we composed ourselves to sleep,
thankful for the accommodation afforded us by these friendly
people, and for the kindness of Him, who^ in the overruling
of his good providence, had brought us, so timely, to this
shelter from the cold.
8th mo. 1st. The grass, this morning, was covered with
hoar-frost. Our horses had not gone much more than a
mile away. Four of them had taken shelter on the side of a
1839.] GRIQUA COUNTRY. 421
hill of tumbled basalt, and two were still in the plain. While
I went after them, my companion had further conversation
on religious subjects with our hostess, who seemed in a ten-
der frame of mind, and explained what was said to her, to her
husband. They again refreshed us with coffee, out of their
little stock ; and when we parted from them, they sent one
of their sons to shew us the only place in which there was
a danger of missing the way. After riding about an hour
and a half over a plain, we descried some Koranna huts, at
the foot of a low ridge of tumbled basalt, a little to the north
of a remarkable conical hill ; and on coming round a point,
we were cheered by seeing the flat-topped, white house of
the Berlin Missionaries, at Bethany, where we met a very
cordial reception from Carl and Johanna Wuras, and their
companions Theodore RadlofF and Ludwig Zerwick, and Dor-
othea, the wife of Adolph Ortlepp, who was a temporary
inmate in the family.
The Missionary-Station of Bethany, which is represented
in the annexed etching, is situated near some pools, among
a considerable number of curious hills, of tumbled basalt.
These hills, some of which appear to be the remains of basal-
tic veins, are in such a position as to render it probable, that
the land, above the plain, from the level of their tops, has
been washed away. The quantity of clayey matter, continu-
ally washed from these elevated plains into the Orange River,
is so great as often to render it muddy to its mouth, and in
some measure, to favour this idea. In this part of the coun-
try, basalt seems in no degree, to render the earth more
fruitful. A small portion of ground is made productive by
irrigation from the pools, which are supplied by copious
springs. — Some of the Missionaries were busy building a
brick chapel, which was also to serve as a school-house. The
house in which they dwelt was of their own building, and of
brick. Some of the old hartebeest houses, which they at first
occupied, and which were not yet quite forsaken, were almost
in ruins.
The Korannas at this Station were a tribe of Hottentots
originally inhabiting the Cape Colony; from thence they
emigrated into Namaqua Land. Subsequently, they removed
D D 3
422 BETHANY. [8th mo.
into the Griqua Country, from whence they were driven, on
account of the marauding practices which they had adopted.
Some of them carried off a considerable quantity of cattle
from the Missionary Station of Beersheba, not many months
ago; these had now settled down in this neighbourhood.
They possessed guns, and were dexterous in using them ; they
had been a great scourge to many parts of the country. Their
Chief was named Piet Witvoet. Their complexion was sallow
and rather light ; in features and language they resembled the
other Hottentot tribes ; their hair was woolly and dark. Their
habits were far from cleanly; they decorated themselves
with beads more than any other people we had seen ; the beads
were of various sizes, but generally very small. Some of the
women had as many as a couple of pounds weight of them,
pink, red, white, black and spotted ; some about their necks,
and others hanging in front from the loins, along with greasy
aprons, and rags of tanned sheep or goat-skins. The children,
who were generally almost naked, were also decorated in the
same way. Many of the Korannas were obliged, at this
season of the year, to live at places a short distance from
Bethany, in order to obtain pasturage for their cattle.
2nd. The cold was so severe in the night, that the win-
dows of a room, in which six persons slept, were frozen in-
side. In the forenoon, we rode with Carl Wuras and Theo-
dore RadlofF to see a Boor's family, who were living at a
fountain belonging to the Station. The Boor was out hunt-
ing ; his wife had been an invalid many years ; she was
favoured to know something of heavenly comfort in her sick-
ness. We next went to a Koranna village, of about a dozen
hemispherical houses, among some rocks. Here we had an
an interview with a man, blind from the smallpox, named
Johannes Hoffman, and who was affected with strong con-
viction of sin, before he had even heard of the Lord Jesus
Christ. When very miserable, he met with some of his
countrymen, who had been at a Missionary Station, and they
were able to instruct him in the way of salvation ; he was
favoured to attain to peace with God, through Jesus Christ,
but did not retain it. When he came to Bethany, he was in
a seeking state, and the Missionaries encouraged him to
1839.]
GRIQUA COUNTRY.
423
seek the renewal of peace with God, through that gracious
Saviour by whom he had found it before. This, after a time,
he was favoured to find ; and he had been enabled to attain
to such an establishment in that faith in Jesus, which work-
eth by love, to the purifying of the heart, as to become
an encouraging example of the happy effects of the Gospel.
There were also a few other pious people at this place. Our
next visit was to a Bushman's kraal, on a ridge of tumbled
basaltic rocks, represented in the annexed cut. It consisted
of half-a-dozen shelters, formed of mats, supported by inclined
sticks ; the best of them formed a quarter of a sphere, and
might be compared to an alcove. These dwellings are easily
turned, so as to afford some protection from the wind. There
were little fires in the front of them, at some of which
were the remains of the very small, bulbous roots of Ixias,
and other plants of the same tribe, many species of which
aiFord these people food. They are called Uyentjes, Little
Onions, in the Colony, and abound in most parts of Southern
Africa. The women were out collecting roots, and some of
the men were hunting ; the others were sitting in a sunny
place, under a tree, smoking with short, curved, bone pipes.
They were dirty in their persons, but of rather light, though
424 BETHANY. [8th mo
yellowish complexion ; they wore karrosses, and were decently
covered. One of them had on a hat, tolerably well formed
of the skin of a Ratel ; the others wore skin-caps. Their
bows, which were only 2^ feet long, and their little, poisoned,
reed arrows were lying by them, and they shewed us their
manner of using them. They keep their arrrows in a little
quiver, formed of skin, but when they want to have them
ready quickly, they stick them in their hair. Some of their
arrows have bone piles, but those that are poisoned, have a
small, triangular piece of metal fixed on the point, as a barb.
Below this, the poison is laid on, in the form of a gum.
Here we saw one of three children, who, a few months
before, were carried off by a Boor, who was temporarily re-
siding in the neighbourhood. He came to the kraal with a
few goats, which he left as a bribe with the men, not to inter-
fere with him, while he carried off the children. Their mo-
ther, finding they were gone, went in great distress to the
Missionaries, two of whom rode to the encampment of the
Boor, who asserted that the mother had sold the children,
not being aware that she was close behind to denounce his
falsehood, and weeping in distress. He then put on a stern
front, went into his tent, and brought out a gun, declaring he
would shoot any one who interfered with him. One of the
Missionaries now suddenly turned his horse, and rode off
rapidly toward the Station. On this, the man became more
quiet, it may be presumed, fearing the Korannas should be
brought against him, and the remaining Missionary obtained
possession of the youngest child, with which he went home,
the woman following him. The second child had contrived
to creep away and hide itseff in the night. In a short time,
the eldest arrived, bringing a note from the Boor, importing,
that as he A\dshed to live peaceably with all men, he had sent
the child to be restored to its parents ! Having parted with
the children, he lost no time in returning to the kraal, and
bringing away the goats that he had left, and shortly after,
he went from the neighbourhood.
When the Missionaries first arrived in this part of the
country, the Bushmen were very shy, but now they had
gained a little confidence, and were employed in herding, and
1839.]
GRIQUA COUNTRY.
425
occasionally in other matters; they were beginning to take a
little care of a few goats, which they had received as wages. —
We next rode to visit another group of Korannas, on the oppo-
site side of the Riet Rivier, Reed River, at the foot of a re-
markable conical hill, which serves as a landmark in this part
of the country, and on the very spot on which the Boor was
living when he carried off the children. The people of this
village, which is represented in the accompanying cut, were
3Kovanna Uillage.
like the first we visited, but more numerous, the Gospel had
also produced some effect among them. From this place
we returned to Bethany, and spent a pleasant evening with
our Missionary friends. — The Korannas of Bethany had sev-
eral Bechuanas in their service, who were the descendants
of prisoners of war ; they received little in the form of wages,
and might be regarded as a sort of slaves.
3rd. Two persons who were formerly slaves in the Colony,
were living at Bethany in a hartebeest hut ; their industry
formed a striking contrast to the indolence of the Korannas,
who could scarcely be roused to activity by anything but the
excitement of hunting. Many of them would hardly assist in
cutting up an ox, even when expecting to partake of its flesh.
In some of their huts, I noticed animals that had been slaugh-
tered, only partially skinned, when partially consumed. Like
many others, perhaps all of the native tribes, their mode of
cleansing their hands was by smearing them with fresh cow-
dung, and rubbing them till it came off in rolls. Cow- dung
426 BETHANY. [8th mo.
dried, formed also their principal fuel. When travelling with
our wagon, we were sometimes reduced to the necessity of
using this article for fuel, to cook with. — A few Wild Olive
trees were yet remaining on the hills in this neighbourhood.
The Station is about half a mile from the Riet Rivier, which
is bordered with willows and reeds, and near which, there
is much of the kind of shrubby Asparagus, which is used at
Thaba Unchu, for making skerms, shelters, round the huts of
the Barolongs.
The Koranna population of Bethany and the vicinity was
about 400. Six persons had been received as members
of the church, and there were ten inquirers. — The frequent
combination in their language, of harsh, guttural sounds, with
clicks, presents such an impediment to its acquisition by for-
eigners, that I am not aware of its having been overcome
by any one past the stage of early childhood. These clicks
have been noticed in the languages of Africa, nearly as far
north as Abyssinia. The hopes of the Missionaries are chiefly
in the rising generation, whom they are teaching Dutch. —
When a person dies, the Korannas bury his karross with
him, and remove the house in which his death took place.
This being formed of a few bent sticks and mats, is easily
transplanted ; they consider the ground on which it stood at
the time, polluted. It is surprising how they endure the cold
in these frail habitations, at this season of the year ; but
like other native tribes, and some of the emigrant farmers,
they are reluctant to go out till the sun is well up ; and the
frosty mornings and evenings, and cold days, are chiefly spent
in shivering over Httle fires, scarcely sufficient to keep the
hands and feet warm. The Korannas of this part of the
country, too often let their fountains to Boors from the
Colony, even for tobacco or brandy, sorrowing for their folly
when it is too late.
4th. The chapel, which is a temporary structure of reeds,
was partially eaten, a few days ago, by some hungry cows,
but having been repaired, about 200 persons assembled in it
this forenoon. They were chiefly Korannas, but a few Bas-
utu and Bushmen, and a large, Dutch family, were also pre-
sent. The congregation was addressed by G. W. Walker,
1839.] GRIQUA COUNTRY. 42^
two of the Missionaries, and myself. C. Wuras interpreted
into Dutch, and one of the converts into Koranna. In the
afternoon we had an interview with fifteen of the native
members of the church, and catechumens.
The Missionaries here lived in much simplicity, and har-
mony ; a precious feeling of divine influence often attended
their devotional exercises. In those of a routine character,
they took turns, being very tender of each other's feelings, and
carefully avoiding anything like exercising lordship one over
another. Their domestic comfort as well as their useful-
ness, was much increased by the marriage of C. Wuras,
whose wife was a daughter of Christopher Sass, of Theopolis;
she was an excellent helpmeet, and well trained to missionary
life. Several such are to be found in the Colony, in the
families of the older Missionaries. Women comins: to this
country in a right spirit, surmount the difficulties of African
travelling and settling, wonderfully well ; and Missionaries
are of comparatively little use without wives. Before the
marriage of C. Wuras, those at this place had their food badly
prepared, and lived in a way ill calculated to maintain their
health. Both the Paris and Berlin Missionary Boards fell
into an error, in sending their Missionaries out single ; and
the latter, in requiring that their consent should be obtained
previous to a marriage in this country, which could not be
had under many months.
5th. The Captain, Piet Witvoet arrived, having been
absent during our visit : his son, a young man, known by the
appellation of " Klein Piet," that is little or young Peter,
agreed to accompany us, as guide; we therefore took leave of
the interesting group of missionaries at Bethany, and pro-
ceeded on our journey. The country was chiefly clothed
with thin, sweet grass. Clay-slate showed itself in the water-
courses, and hills of tumbled basalt, on the surface. The
principal wild animals that attracted our notice were Spring-
boks in small herds, Cranes, Doves, and Partridges, in flocks,
and a few solitary Secretary-birds. We passed several sta-
tions where Boors, who were civil, were living in wagons and
tents, a family or two in a place : one of them had taken a
considerable quantity of fish, about the size of herrings, in an
428 BOND FONTEiN. [8th mo.
adjacent river. In the evening we reached Rond Fontein,
Eou7id Fountain, where there was an empty hartebeest hut,
wanting an end, and defective in some other parts ; here we
took up our quarters, being glad even of such a shelter as this.
A few Hottentots were living near, in a mat hut ; they were
in charge of some cattle and springing corn. With difficulty,
we obtained from them a little wood ; with this and some
dry cow-dung, we raised a fire, by which to warm ourselves
and take a meal. Water from the spring, quenched our thirst,
and when ready for rest, we wrapped ourselves in blankets
and karrosses, and lay down on the mud floor, thankful for
the mercies bestowed upon us.
6th. The water having been to leeward of our horses,
they could not smell it, and not having been shown where
it was, such of them as were not too tired, strayed far in
search of it, and were not found till near noon. While
G. W. Walker and Piet Witvoet, jun. were searching for
them, a Boor named Van Wyk, who was out hunting, or
rather as we should say in England, shooting, came up, and
kindly invited us to his residence, which consisted of a harte-
beest hut, a tent, and wagons, distant about three miles;
he offered, in case the search for the horses should prove un-
successful, to send some of his men after them, and to replen-
ish our stock of food, which was getting low. I remarked to
him, that this was a fine, grassy country; he sighed, and said,
it was not equal to that which he had left, in the Winterhoek,
when rain fell there ; but that, for six years, the drought had
been so great that he had been obliged to leave. The Winter-
hoek is near the Moravian missionary station of Enon, the dry
state of which when we visited it, will be remembered. — When
our guide arrived with the horses, his own was too tired to
proceed, and he was unwell ; we therefore paid him his wages,
and divided with him our remaining food, he preferring to
return, and we set out alone. The country continued of the
same character, but with occasional traces of lime on the sur-
face. We passed eight places where there were Boors, two
where there were Bastaards, and a village of Griquas, situated
near some copious springs, irrigating considerable pieces of
land, on which the corn was coming up. Near sunset we
1839.] GRIQUA COUNTRY. 429
came at a place where some Bushmen were collecting their
goats for the night ; we had a little difficulty in keeping the
road after it became dark, but we were favoured to arrive
in safety, at Philippolis, where we again met a kind wel-
come. Near Philippolis we saw some lights at a group of
mat huts, from the people of which, we obtained assistance
in getting over a piece of road that was cut into deep fissures,
by the water of a spring, and the late rains.
7th. In the morning I returned to the spot where the
mat huts stood the preceding evening, with the intention of
thanking the people for their kindness, but they were all
gone. They had been stirring early, had packed up their
houses and goods, and departed to some other place.
The portion of Southern Africa which we visited on this
journey, from Philippolis, including also this place, was
subsequently attempted to be taken possession of by the
emigrant Boors. They set fire to the corn of the Griquas,
issued proclamations highly unjust toward the natives, and
thus, both in conduct, and in open declaration of principles,
showed how little they regarded the equity required by the
Gospel, or were imbued with the spirit of Him, who laid
down for his followers, the uncompromising maxim, " What-
soever ye would that men should do to you, do ye even
so to them."
CHAPTER XXVI.
Sending to buy Corn. — Missionary Visitors. — Catching Springboks. — Wild-dogs.
— Cold. — Indications of Spring. — Flowers. — Fever. — State of the Philippolis
Griquas. — Religious Labours. — Drie Fontein. — Marsilea. — Scheid Fontein. —
Scarcity of Water. — Esculent-rooted Mesembryanthemum. — Birds. — Cattle
Scent Water. — Visit from Bushmen. — Poison of Arrows. — Garments. —
Knapsacks. — Articles found in unlikely places. — Esculent Aloe. — Cross Moun-
tain. — Remark of a Boor. — Ramah. — Visit from two Bastaards. — Crossing
the River with Wooden-horses. — Divine Teaching. — Loss of Reckoning as to
time. — Weather. — Mankey River. — Hippopotamus Station. — Scarcity. — Indo-
lence. — Euryotis unisulcatus. — Thrifty Barolong. — Visiting. — Kameeldoorn
Fontein. — Kameeldoorn. — Fear of Lions. — Vaal Rivier. — Saltpans Drift. —
Tired Cattle. — Broad-tailed Sheep. — Wild Geese. — Heat. — Meeting with the
Griquas. — Irrigation. — Road. — Bushman Village. — Great Orange River. —
Traveller. — Aitonia. — Spuigslang Fontein. — Bushman's Fiddle. — Namaqua
Partridges. — Doves.— Ostrich-egg Bottles. — Limestone. — Griqua Town. —
Failure of the Spring. — Bergenaars. — Conquered Basutu. — Cheta. — Andries
Waterboer. — Schools. — Buildings. — Assemblies for Worship. — Interpreters. —
Awakening . — Kindness.
8th mo. Finding that we were in danger of running short
of provisions, in the continuance of our journeyings, we pur-
chased a quantity of Caifer-corUj at Morija, and agreed that
the Missionaries of Philippolis, for whom we also purchased
some, should send their wagon and oxen, with two of our
men and some of theirs, to fetch it. Waiting for the return
of the wagon, and some other circumstances, detained us at
Phihppohs till the 28th of 8th month. During this period,
we had the company of Wallace Hewitson and his family,
and of a medical man named Philips and his wife, who were
about to join Francis Owen of the Episcopal Church, in at-
tempting to settle a mission at Mosega, about four degrees
north of this place.
Wallace Hewitson had contributed greatly to the support of
his family, on their journey hither, by catching Springboks
1839.] GRIQUA COUNTRY. 431
by means of Greyhounds, and when here, he sometimes
went out for this purpose. On one of these occasions, his
dogs were attacked, and one of them was injured, by some
Wild- dogs. Hyena venatica, upon the hills on which I was
daily in the practice of walking alone, for the sake of exer-
cise, which I found needful to keep up circulation in the cold
weather. I could not but regard my not falling in with these,
and other ferocious animals, as the merciful preservation of
the Shepherd of Israel. — The boldness of the Wild-dog is
displayed in the following circumstance : — My friend, Thomas
L. Hodgson, was once travelling in this part of the country,
with a wagon, and when yoking, he saw a pack of Wild-dogs
coming from the hills, direct for his oxen ; he and his men
took their guns, fired amongst the Wild-dogs as they ap-
proached, and shot some of them; the rest varied their course
a little, and went off at a slight angle from the line in which
they had come toward the wagon.
The temperature was so low, at the time of our sojourn at
Phihppolis, that the water which was running gently in the
ditch, leading from a neighbouring spring to the gardens,
was sometimes frozen in the night to a considerable thick-
ness. The sun, however, began to impart a considerable de-
gree of warmth in the day-time, and several plants began to
put forth their blossoms. Among these were a green-flowered
Massonia, with spotted leaves, and a few species of Senecio,
some plants of the Arctotis tribe, with flowers resembling
Marigolds, ayellow Mesembryanthemum, a small, pale-flowered
Lycium, a Salvia, or Sage, with small, blue blossoms, a yel-
low, fragrant, bushy Hermannia, a purple, two-flowered Ma-
hernia, and a beautiful, blue Blepharis, the various species of
which cheer the lonely desert in many places where there is
scarcely another flower to be seen at this season. Some of the
species of Senecio, Groundsels or Ragwort, of this country are
purple or lilac, resembling the species from South Africa, culti-
vated in English gardens as an ornamental annual. A blue-
flowered Sage, something like the Salvia verbenaca, of England,
abounded in the sandy places, where there was little other ve-
getation at this season of the year. — While at Philippolis, I had
an attack of fever, which I tried to overcome by exercise ; but
432 PHiLiPPOLis. [8th mo.
though I succeeded in producing perspiration, the fever did
not give way, till treated in the usual manner with active med-
icines, low diet, and almost entire repose both of body and
mind. When sufficiently recovered, I was occupied with
writing, making preparations for a journey to Griqua Town,
or in visiting the people. We gave them much counsel on
the importance of industry and cleanliness, and of living in
the fear and love of God, so as to be kept from being dis-
couraged from sowing corn, under the apprehension that an
enemy might destroy it. We also advised them against let-
ting their fountains.
There was a remarkable degree of supineness visible among
the people of Philippolis. While living under privations, in
regard to the common necessaries of life, such as would be
very hard for English people to sustain, they seemed ready
to lay hold of any kind of an excuse, to escape exertion,
or to avoid allowing their children to go from home, even
in service that might turn to profit. They were also slow
to make improvements ; their gardens were suffered to lie
waste during the winter, the walls to be broken down, al-
lowing the cattle and goats to browse over them, to the
injury, and often, to the destruction of their fruit-trees;
their fountain was trampled in by the cattle, and left in such
a state from floods, as to allow much of the water wanted for
irrigation to escape another way. Want of energy, indeed
marked the population generally, but the better training of
the children afforded hope of improvement in the rising gen-
eration. When we were about to leave the place, several
youths expressed a willingness to engage to lead our oxen,
but their parents invariably threw difficulties in the way, not-
withstanding some of those who would have gone, were
spending their time in idleness. We at length met with a
stranger, named Hans Kaffir, who engaged with us.
In being present on some of the occasions of public wor-
ship at Philippolis, a conviction that had often been made
upon my mind, in regard to the laboTir used at places of this
sort, was much confirmed. There is often much well-inten-
tioned zeal exhibited, which brings forth good christian coun-
sel and doctrine, but if the true spring of gospel ministry.
1839.] GRIQUA COUNTRY. 433
from which the spiritually-minded are often favoured to draw
living water, and to hand it forth to their hearers, were better
understood by the preachers, their communications would
often be much shorter than they are ; they would be di-
vested of much that is merely of the will and wisdom of
man ; this neither edifies their hearers, nor glorifies God,
but tends rather to exalt that in themselves which ought to
be mortified, and leads their hearers to lean upon them, in-
stead of seeking for themselves, to the Fountain of Life.
28th. We took leave of our kind friends of the Mission-
family at Philippolis, and of the people, who appeared really
affectionate. We had dealt very plainly wnth them, but they
received our counsel in the love in which it was given.
Among them there were some pious people, but others were
far from being established in grace; there seemed to be a covert
opposition to the Gospel among the latter. — In our journey we
were accompanied by Hendrik Hyns, a schoolmaster, from
the Kat River, who was going to the Kuruman to visit some
relations. — A few miles on the way, we passed Bushmans
Fountain, which is appropriated to the use of the Philippolis
mission, and where corn is sown, which one of the people
takes care of, for half the produce. Here the walls of a house
were standing which was burnt about twelve years ago, with
the people in it, by a party of CafFers. We outspanned for
the night at a place where there was water, and a little
sweet grass. In the bed of a pool, lately dried up, a Marsilea
with small hairy leaves, was abundantly in fructification.
29th. We travelled about twenty miles, making the first
stop at Scheid Fontein, Separation Fountain, a place where
several Coloured People were dwelling in mat huts, and where
some of them had sown corn, near to a few, large, shallow
pools. At this place there were some wagons belonging to a
travelling Boor, and two belonging to a trader, called in this
country, a Smous, which literally means, a Cheat. One of the
company of the trader was an English comedian, of bad cha-
racter. At a short distance from this place there was a Griqua
village, of fourteen mat huts. — From hence we travelled past
many rocky topped hills, hoping to find water, at the foot of
one called Los Kopje, Separate Head, which was remarkable
E E
434 GRIQUA COUNTRY. [8th 1110.
for its conical figure, and isolated situation ; we were, however,
disappointed; nevertheless, we were sure that there was water
in the neighbourhood, because of the presence of herds of
Springboks and Gnus. A herd of the latter passed us at full
speed : supposing that they were going to water, I galloped
after them, but it was becoming dark, and they left me far
behind; I therefore returned to my companions, and we were
obliged to outspan, and leave our thirsty cattle to shift for
themselves.
30th. The cattle found water in the bottom of a muddy
pool, last night. We travelled all day without finding any more;
but we saw several wagons belonging to some travelling Boors,
standing at a fountain too far out of the road for us, as we had
still a little water in our casks, which served to make coffee.
These Boors had come from a district called Uitvlugt, Subter-
fuge, where, they said, everything was dried up and consumed.
Some of their children were digging up the edible roots of a
stemless, yeUow-flowered Mesembryanthemum, out of a place
where water had stood. These roots tasted a little like those
of the Rampion, Campanula Rapunculus. By the side of a
dry water-course, there were a few stunted Dornbooms, which
were the first we had seen since leaving Cradock. On the left,
we passed a hill called Goedmansberg, Goodman's Mountain,
and another called Blesberg, White-patched Mountain; the latter
had a remarkable, white cliff, probably of limestone. Being
in advance of the wagon, G. W. Walker, H. Hyns and my-
self went in different directions to seek water, but we found
none. After following the track of a wagon for a considerable
distance, I came to a range of low, sandy hills, where there
was a succession of holes, some of which had been artificially
enlarged; water had evidently run into them at no dis-
tant period, but it was all dried up, and the remains of several
goats were strewed around the place. I was forcibly re-
minded of the language of Jeremiah, "They came to the
pits, and found no water ; they returned with the vessels
empty; they were ashamed and confounded, and covered
their heads. " — We stopped for the night between two ridges
of rough, basaltic hills, on the clay-slate, which is the forma-
tion of the karroo countr)'^, on which we were now travelling.
1839.] GRIQUA COUNTRY. 435
and on which, there was little herbage, except stunted, hushy
Mesembryanthemums. We made a fire of dry cow-dung,
and a few small sticks, and partook thankfully of the coffee
made with our remaining water. Among the few animals
seen to-day were two Ostriches and two Brown Storks,
Ciconia nigra. A large, dense-leaved Aloe.^ with reddish
flowers, and a yellow Gazania, were in flower in some places ;
and upon the dry hills, a bushy Dimorphotheca, resembling
a Marigold, with white flowers, was a very striking object.
31st. Though we found no water last evening, we were
not very anxious about it, because we knew that we were
only a few miles from the Nu Gariep River. It was to leeward
of us, and consequently our cattle did not smell it, but they
found water at a considerable distance to windward, at a
place where our people replenished our stock. While waiting
for them, two Bushmen visited us. They were probably
from a place a little to the northward, not then known by
Europeans ; but from whence, about three years afterwards,
a deputation waited on Dr. Philip, when he was on a tour
through this part of the country, to beg that he would send
them a Missionary. They did not disclose their residence to
us, but one of them, who had lived with a Boor, in the Col-
ony, and could speak a little Dutch, enquired for tobacco.
When told, that tobacco would pass away in smoke, and not
satisfy their hunger, they assented ; they accepted thankfully
a little Caffer-corn, and allowed that it was better food. I
learned from them, that they prepared the poison of some of
their arrows from a species of Euphorbia, which grows on
the hills ; but that they used different kinds of poison for dif-
ferent animals, the larger, such as Gnus, requiring it stronger.
The covering of these men was scanty, but decent, and of
prepared skins ; one of them was bareheaded, but had skin-
sandals ; the other had a close leather cap, and a pair of
Velschoenen, skin-shoes. Our visitors had also knapsacks,
formed of the skins of small antelopes, tanned with the legs
on ; these are in common use in South Africa, as sacks
and bags. — While our men were seeking the cattle, I went to
the top of an adjacent hill, to look around. On the way, far
from the road, I picked up the shell of a common species of
E E 2
436 CROSS MOUNTAIN. [8th rao.
Oliva. It was in a state that forbad the idea of its being
a fossil ; probably it had been dropped by the child of some
travelling Boor; but it led to reflection on the danger of
making theories from the existence of solitary things, in certain
situations, without having sufficient evidence as to how they
came there. Once when riding, far from the wagon-track, on
a desolate part of the Karroo, I picked up a new, tin soup-
ladle. It was a very unlikely place for such an article to be
found in, and I had no clue by which to find out how it had
been lost in such a place. — An Aloe, with spotted leaves, and
red flowers, was in blossom on these hills. The blanched
bases of the flower-stems of this species are cooked, and eaten
by the natives.
Our journey to-day was over the Cross Mountain to Ra-
mah. The higher hills were rough basalt, the lower, calca-
reous ; the limestone, in many places, was covered with red
sand. Clay-slate, in a shaly, massive, or thickly stratified
state, was, however, the prevailing formation. A small, fra-
grant, yellow and orange Gladiolus, a scarlet Sutherlandia,
and a few other early flowers, as well as a few Ostriches, Vul-
tures, Crows, Bustards, and Partridges, enlivened the mo-
notony of our ride. We spoke with a travelling Boor, who
thankfully accepted some tracts, and said, " A sitting crow
catches nothing: if I had not taken a ride out to-day, I
should not have got these. " At the old missionary station
of Ramah, the fountain was so nearly dried up, that the peo-
ple had left the place, and gone to the side of the river. The
houses formerly occupied by a native teacher of the London
Missionary Society, and as a chapel, were in ruins, but we
took up our quarters under the shelter of one of them. Two
Bastaards from near Plaat Berg joined us, as people travelling
in the remote parts of Africa are wont to do ; they claimed
hospitality with little ceremony, seated themselves among our
people, and seemed glad to get a drink of cofi'ee ; but they
were not equally ready in helping, when some of our horses
were unruly.
9th mo. 1st. We visited the people residing on the banks
cf the Nu Gariep River, about a mile and a half distant from
the old station : they were Bastaards, Griquas, and Bushmen,
1839.] GRIQUA COUNTRY. 437
and were under the Philippolis Government. Andres Van
Wyk, a Bastaard, was the Field-cornet ; he lived in a har-
tebeest-hut : adjoining his hut, was another of the same
structure ; the rest were hemispherical mat-huts, except those
of the Bushmen, which were only semi-hemispheres. The
w^agons of three companies of emigrating Boors were standing
at a distance ; they had remained here till nearly all the grass
was eaten up ; and the quantity was but small at any time.
One of them, wishing to get his goats and cattle over the
river to-day, had persuaded the people that it was only the
seventh, instead the first day of the week ; for too often,
the pretensions of the Boors to Christianity are made to bend,
like those of too many others, to motives of self-interest.
The people were smeared with red-ochre and grease, to repel
the water ; they were swimming the goats across the river
when we arrived, holding one goat on each side of a log of
drift willow-wood, called a wooden-horse. These wooden-
horses are about 10 feet long; they have a stout peg, a little
beyond the middle, standing out sufficiently far to allow the
man to hold firmly by it, with one hand. The body of the
man is thrown upon the longer end of the log ; and in this
way, he contends with the struggling of the animals and the
current of the river, till he arrives on the opposite shore, unless
the goats escape, in which case he leaves his block, and re-
captures the fugitives.
These people had now no teacher among them; they there-
fore did not assemble on First-days for public worship ; they
seemed to have relapsed almost into heathenism. How su-
perlatively valuable is that teaching of the Gospel which does
not leave mankind dependent on their fellow-men for the
performance of their duty to God ; but which directs them,
under the constraining influence of the love of Christ, to the
immediate teaching of the Holy Spirit, and to " not forsaking
the assembling of themselves together"; seeing that, according
to Scripture, they may all be taught of the Lord himself, if
they wait upon him, and may receive the blessing pronounced
upon the two or three gathered together in the name of
Christ, even though not a word be spoken among them.
These things along with much other doctrine and exhortation,
E E 3
438 RAMAH. [9th mo.
we found it in our hearts to bring before these people, about
forty of whom, chiefly women, assembled in the house of the
Field-cornet. We referred them to the witness of the Spirit
against sin, in the secret of their own hearts, as a proof of the
love and teaching of God; and shewed from the Scriptures,
from which we read the passages, as we were not equal to
quoting them satisfactorily in Dutch, without the book, that
the same teaching, if followed, would lead to repentance, to
faith in Christ, and to the comfort of the Holy Ghost, under a
sense of being reconciled to God, through his beloved Son.
There was perceptible to my own mind, on this occasion, a
considerable measure of the feeling of the love of God toward
this company. Some of the people belonging to the Boors,
were washing their clothes in the river, which was rather
deep. There was a ford below this place, but the current
there was too strong for small cattle, except when the water
was very low. Several times, while we were on this side of
the river, persons belonging to families of travelling Boors,
inquired what day of the week and month it was, having lost
their reckoning.
2nd. Among the rough, basaltic hills at Ramah, there were
agate pebbles; and upon them there was an Aloe, with dense
spikes about 4 feet high, of greenish-orange flowers; these were
beginning to expand in warm places. Within a few days, the
weather had become a little warmer. Electric columns of
dust were frequent. A slight thunder-shower occurred this
afternoon, and a little rain fell in the night. The straying of
the horses occasioned us to be late in getting forward on our
journey. At about six miles from Ramah, we stopped at the
dry bed of the Mankey River, which is the boundary between
the country of Andries Waterboer, of Griqua Town, and that
of Adam Kok, of Philippolis. On a hill, near the road,
there was a settlement called Matjes Fontein, Rush-fountain,
consisting of half a dozen Griquas' huts, and one belonging
to a Bushman. The people were poor; they had only a few
goats and cows, but two of them possessed wagons ; they
had the charge of a large flock of sheep, belonging to a more
wealthy neighbour ; as we could not meet with him, we were
unable to obtain a sheep fit to kill for meat ; this was the
1839.] GRIQUA COUNTRY. 439
case also at Ramah ; we were therefore put on short allow-
ance of animal food. We made a little further progress in
the afternoon, and outspanned for the night near the river,
opposite the place marked on maps, Hippopotamus Station.
The grass was all consumed, so that, after the cattle had
drunk, our herdsman drove them toward the hills, upon a
track by which antelopes, &c. had come to drink, and there he
left them to shift for themselves. The sandy ground here pro-
duced many plants of the Amaryllis tribe, the leaves of which
were now beginning to appear. The two men who joined us
on Seventh-day, kept with us to-day, instead of making pro-
gress as they might have done ; we were therefore under the
necessity of telling them, that, if they chose to keep with the
wagon, they must be content with Caffer-corn, and a little
coffee ; the former, though rather despised by them, as being
the food of the more deeply-coloured tribes, was now our
principal diet, and we did not think it necessary to abridge
our own people of the little animal food we had remaining,
to accommodate strangers, who were not making the progress
which their circumstances admitted. We also offered to sup-
ply them with ammunition, if they would try to shoot any
wild animals, one of them having a gun ; but they appeared
indisposed to exert themselves, and even asked our leader
for water, which he had to bring half a mile ; he was of a
race which they looked upon as beneath them. The youth
showed no unwillingness to go for water, but I thought it
was too much for them to expect to be thus waited upon,
and therefore requested the younger of them to bring water
for himself. — Near the river, small birds were numerous;
in the same place, an animal, the size of a rat, with a head
like a marmot, was nibbling a dry twig of Doornboom.
This animal was probably Euryotis unisulcaius ; it collects
small sticks into the bottoms of the bushes, and makes burrows
among them, as well as in the ground. Two other species,
Euryotis irroratus and Euryotis Brantsii are found in the
Cape country ; the former makes sohtary burrows ; the
latter associates in considerable numbers, and has numerous
holes, in dry places, destitute of shrubs.
3rd. The cattle found grass among the hills, but so far off.
440 KAMEELDOORX FONTEIN. [9th mO.
that we could not set forward till eleven o'clock. The coun-
try continued very poor ; in some places it was bare, red sand.
We came at no water^ but fell in with a party of Barolongs
from Motito, driving sheep thither. One of these, not very fat,
we purchased for a common shirt which cost three shillings.
The man of whom we bought it, like his thrifty tribe, oflfered
to kill it, and then inquired, if we had any use for its skin,
which he obtained as a compensation for his services. We
also met a party of people from Griqua Town, with a wagon,
going on a visit to Matjes Fontein, where they would be
likely soon to create a famine. Visiting of this kind is a
great evil among the Hottentots, Bastaards and Griquas ; it
takes them an unreasonable time from home, sometimes three
or four months ; the time is idled away, their families are
neglected, the provisions of the visited are consumed, and
sometimes conjugal affection is aUenated. — A few Koodoos
passed us at full speed, being pursued by some Boors. On
some soft limestone, at this place, there was a remarkable
species of Mesembryanthemum, with pale, roundish leaves,
tubercled like shagreen. A large Staj)elia, and a Huernia
were growing on the stony, basaltic hills of this part of the
country.
4th. While the men were bringing up the cattle, I walked
to the top of an adjacent hill of tumbled basalt, on which
four species of Aloe were in blossom. A yellow Zygophyl-
lum, a bushy, spinous-leaved Mesembryanthemum, and a
few other plants, enlivened the sombre karroo, over which
we travelled eighteen miles ; then winding through a narrow
pass, and over some loose sand-hills, we came to a place
called Kameeldoorn Fontein, Giraffe-thorn Fountain, where
there were fourteen mat-huts. None of the inhabitants could
read, but one of them possessed a wagon. A few of them
listened attentively while I endeavoured to direct their atten-
tion to eternal things; but here, as well as at Matjes Fontein,
I felt little openness in rehgious communication ; probably
the parties might not easily understand my Dutch, as they
chiefly used the Hottentot language in conversation among
themselves. Here the horses and cattle were taken to the
river to water, at a place where it was rushing through a
1839.] GRIQUA COUNTRY. 441
narrow channel, hemmed in with basaltic rocks. The cattle
had not drunk since the morning of the previous day. After
filling our water-casks at a spring, we proceeded into an-
other pass, where our cattle had a luxurious feed upon fine
grass, and we a pleasant shelter under a large bush. The
Kameeldoorn, Acacia Giraffe, is a handsome tree ; in the
places formerly inhabited by the Giraffe, the trunks of
these trees are naked as high as the Giraffe could browse
off the branches ; above this point, they spread out with flat
heads, of close, spinous branches, and elegant, compoundly
pinnate foliage ; in other places, or where the GiraiFes have
been destroyed, and the trees are young, they branch to the
ground ; they now began to be decorated with globular heads,
of yellow, filamentous flow^ers, like those of the more com-
mon Doornboom. This tree is represented in the etching
at page 293.
5th, Our herdsman said he heard the growl of a Lion at
a distance, early this morning, but all the cattle were found
safe, and near at hand. As we came into the country infested
by lions, I observed considerable excitement among our com-
pany, in talking about them. As I had seen sufficient proof
that they were such poor marksmen as to be much more
likely to enrage a lion, than to destroy one by firing at him,
I became uncomfortable, being unable to obtain a promise
from them, that if one should visit us, they would allow him
quietly to take an ox or a horse, without risking their own
safety by attempting to shoot at him; but my uneasiness was
mercifully brought to an end, by a feeling of near access in
prayer to the footstool of Him who can stop the mouth of lions,
that we might be preserved from all annoyance by wild-beasts,
and that we might neither hear the lion's roar, nor see the
print of his foot. — We kept near the river, preferring the
heavier road, because it hurt the feet of the cattle less than
that which was hard and stony ; it had also the advantage of
M^ater. In the course of the day, we passed two little groups
of Koranna huts.
6th. The oxen and horses having gone far for grass, we
were unable to proceed till eleven o'clock. The tracks of
Antelopes of various species, were numerous from the hills to
442 KY GARIEP, OR VAAL RIVER. [9th mO.
the river ; in some places, the land had been trampled by
oxen ; it was now almost destitute of vegetation, except a few
stunted, little bushes. A tedious pull of three hours and a half
brought us to the verge of the Ky Gariep, Vaal, or Yellow
River, at a place where the earth was bare, for a considerable
distance. Passing this desolate spot, we stopped under a large
Kameeldoorn, and made Coffee to assuage our thirst. Some
sheep were feeding here on the scanty grass ; they were in
good condition, and from the information of a shepherd-boy,
we were induced to visit an adjacent village to purchase one.
The wagon crossed the ford at Salt Pans Drift, near which
we had concluded to remain, to allow the cattle to rest, as
some of them could no longer draw, and were so tired that
they lay down whenever they had opportunity.
At the village we met Dirk Kok, a native teacher, belonging
to Griqua Town ; he was residing near this place along with a
number of people, who had been under the necessity of leav-
ing Griqua Town, on account of the diminished supply of
water at that place. A Bechuana interpreter, acting as school-
master, was also living here. There were Bechuana villages
in the neighbourhood, and considerable towns further up the
river. We made known our wish to meet the people on First-
day, and it was concluded that the place where Dirk Kok
lived would be the best situation, as the population there was
the most numerous. On the desolate country, over which we
had travelled, the hillocks of the White-ants were forsaken ;
the outer covering was destroyed by the weather ; they
had not been scooped out by Anteaters, but probably, the
insects might have perished from long- continued drought.
Where one still remained inhabited, the covering was good.
The bed of the river was wide and stony, but the quantity of
water was small.
7th. This morning, several Griquas and Bechuanas called
to see us : their visit was designed as one of respectful atten-
tion, and it was received as such ; but time being of little
value with them, their loitering about the wagon was an in-
convenience, as we were all busy. Our people were at the
river washing, or were occupied in mending their clothes ;
and we were getting out stores, and attending to other things
1839.] GRIQUA COUNTRY. 443
connected with the provision of our establishment. Getting
at stores in a wagon, is attended with no small labour, as
things are necessarily closely packed, but system had reduced
the difficulty, and custom reconciled the fatigue. We pur-
chased a sheep for six shillings ; its tail yielded about two
quarts of fat, which was a good substitute for butter ; the
points of these enormous tails yield oil, adapted for lamps,
and for many other purposes. A Griqua sent us milk three
times, and a Bechuana once; though we could not look
upon this as a present, as something was expected in return,
yet it was received as a civility. There were many ducks and
geese on the river ; the geese were of a small species, pret-
tily coloured. The heat and dryness of the atmosphere was
so great, that it warped the lids of our writing-desks inside
the wagon.
8th. We went about six miles up the river on horseback,
to the place where Dirk Kok and several other Griquas were
residing, in mat-huts. The road proved very stony, so that
we were rather late, and the people had met early ; they had
concluded their usual meeting, and were separating when we
arrived ; but they readily assembled again under the shade
of some trees, to the amount of about 200 ; they were well
dressed, and about thirty had Bibles and hymn-books. They
turned to the former with facility, as I referred to various pas-
sages, to illustrate and establish the doctrines of the Gospel.
The effect of the care and labour of the London Missionary
Society in this remote situation, was very satisfactory. On
returning to the wagon, several persons came to obtain tracts
and books, and remained while we read the Scriptures to our
people. At the conclusion, they sang a hymn, of their own
accord, and selected one so fully in accordance with what we
had expressed among them, as to afford evidence that they
had felt its force ; they sang in like manner at the conclusion
of the meeting in the morning.
The place where we met the people in the morning, was
subsequently selected by the Griqua Town Missionaries for
leading out the waters of the Vaal River, to irrigate the con-
tiguous land, in order to relieve the people of this part of
the country from the effects of the long-continued droughts,
444 VAAL OR YELLOW RIVER. [9th mO.
to which they are subject. To aid the people in effecting
this object, many of our friends in England contributed liber-
ally, after my return from Southern Africa.
9th. Before setting forward, we were again visited by several
Bechuanas and Griquas, who came to sell milk, and to obtain
tracts and books. Dutch Bibles and Testaments, and the
Selection of Hymns, printed by the London Missionary So-
ciet}', were most in demand ; it was but few that we could
supply. Not feeling that it was in the line of our dut}"-, to
visit a small settlement called Campbellsdorp, on the way to
Griqua Town, our guide was told to take the path that he
considered best for the oxen ; the best roads in this part being
very hard and rough. The road next the river, was conse-
quently chosen ; some parts of it were sand or gravel, others,
basalt mixed with silicious pebbles : after passing the junc-
tion of the Vaal and Zwarte Riviers, we came upon a rough,
limestone formation, intersected by numerous, hard, silici-
ous veins. Near to where we stopped at noon there were
three good hemispherical mat-huts, inhabited by Bushmen :
some of the people belonging them could speak a little
Dutch. The women were carrjung loads of firewood on their
heads, with no other garments than skirts of numerous rags
of leather ; on our approach, they dressed themselves in de-
cent karrosses. The men were dressed in karrosses, and they
had leathern trousers; a few had likewise jackets of the same
material. These people might therefore be regarded as be-
longing the more civilized of the Bushman race. — In the
evening we stopped in a bushy, but stony place, still within
sight of the confluence of the two great rivers, which, after
uniting, become the Gariep or Great Orange River. — In the
course of the day, another horseback traveller joined us ; he,
however, modestly asked leave to do so ; and when we
stopped, he collected fuel, and showed a disposition to be
useful ; the former two left us, soon after being limited to
Caffer-corn.
10th. The hill on which we outspanned, was very rough;
trap, clayslate and limestone were lying on the surface. It
afforded a little grass, and numerous bushes, some of which
were 10 feet high. The cattle eat with avidity the branches
1839.] GBIQUA COUNTRY. 445
of a willow-leaved Eriospermum, and the horses some of the
smaller shrubs, which had composite flowers. A beautiful
Aloe, Aloe reclinata, with large spikes of pale, red flowers was
growing here, also a spotted, blue Moraa. Our road was so
stony as to render it necessary for the horses to travel at a
foot's-pace. The first series of hills being passed, a second
was ascended, having a limestone front. A species of Aitonia,
smaller than A. capensis, a red, tubular flowered Loranthus,
and various other plants were in blossom on the limestone.
After travelling till near sunset, at about two and a half
miles an hour, we arrived at Spuigslang Fontein, Spit-snake
Fountain. This was a little hole in the limestone ground, at
which some Bush-boys were drawing water in little pails,
scooped out of solid willow-wood, and called Bambooses.
Our people found it necessary to enlarge the place with a
pickaxe and spades, and to watch it, while the water sprang
slowly, to prevent the few cattle in the neighbourhood from
taking precedence of our own in drinking. A portion of a Bush-
man's fiddle was thrown out with the mud ; the sounding part
was formed of the shell of a tortoise, which had probably had
a skin stretched over it. Doves and Namaqua Partridges
came in considerable numbers to drink. There were several
places near, that had been used by the Bushmen for taking
game, none was however to be seen ; desolation reigned in
the wilderness for lack of water ; we neither saw nor heard
wild beasts till we reached the fountain, where, in the evenin?
our ears were assailed by the well-known jackals' cry. Under
the name of Namaqua Partridges, several species of Pterocles
are probably included ; they feed in pairs or solitarily, but
resort to the water in flocks, quickly leaving the place again.
The Doves are various species of Columba ; they also resort
to the water ; their cooing is often an indication of its pre-
sence, in this thirsty land.
11th. Some Bushwomen and their children came to the
fountain for water ; they used Ostrich egg-shells for bottles
and drinking vessels; these were furnished with a short neck,
formed of some sort of gum. To-day we continued to tra-
verse a limestone formation; a compact blue stratum emerged
at intervals from under the upper one, which was softer and
446 GRiQUA TOWN. [9th mo.
whiter. The road continued very bad, and there was no
water till we came near Griqua Town, where we were favoured
to arrive soon after sunset, thankful for the mercies that had
been extended to us on this tedious journey, and for a kind
welcome from Isaac and Elizabeth Hughes, who had sent us
an invitation, when we were at Philippolis.
Griqua Town is situated on the edge of an extensive, lime-
stone plain, and at the foot of a range of low hills of silicious
schistus, producing yellow asbestos. Its original name was
Klaarwater, Clearwater, taken from its clear and copious
spring, which not only supplied the town, but watered the
vale extending toward the Orange River. At the time of our
visit, a drought which had lasted about six years, had reduced
this spring to a standing pool ; the water did not reach the
surface by a foot and a haK, notwithstanding that a few
smaller springs, which were more superficial, within two or
three miles, continued to flow. The gardens and adjacent
lands were desolate ; a solitary peach-tree and a few fig-trees
were all that survived in the former ; and few of the Griquas
remained upon the place. Many of the houses, that had
been forsaken in consequence of the drought, were in ruins.
The occupied houses were those of the Chief, the Mission-
aries, the school-teachers and a few others. But in the vicinity
there were some Basutu villages, inhabited by people who
were rescued by the Chief, Andries Waterboer, from the
Bergenaars, who were a horde of banditti that separated from
the Griquas of this place. Among other depredations which
the Bergenaars committed, they attacked a portion of the
Basutu, and carried off their cattle ; the conquered Basutu
followed them, and became their servants for the sake of
the milk which they obtained from them, and which was their
subsistence ; they were treated with great cruelty, and some
were even shot at as marks ! The Bergenaars were at length
overcome and dispersed by Andries Waterboer; and the
Basutu, who were thus delivered from oppression, settled at
Griqua Town. They cultivated some portions of land after
their own manner, that would have required more labour
than the Griquas would have been disposed to bestow upon
them.
1839.] GRIQUA COUNTRY. 447
In the annexed etching of Griqua Town, the houses of the
missionaries and teachers, with the schools, the chapel, and
some other buildings, form the irregular line on the left, and
that of the chief, with two mat huts at the end, is at a distance,
in front. Those at the foot of the bushy, schistose hill in the
foreground were in ruins. The Cheta or Hunting Leopard,
represented in this view^, is met with in this part of the country.
The skin of one that was shot on the plain, below the houses,
was given me by Isaac Hughes, who was at this time the
only missionary here, his coadjutor, Peter Wright, being in
Cape Town.
12th. We called on Andries Waterboer, the intelligent,
christian Chief or Captain of this district, who is a remark-
able illustration of the power of divine grace. He is mater-
nally of Bushman descent. In a speech, at Cape Town, he
once declared that he owed everything to the Gospel, tem-
poral and spiritual ; that but for the Gospel, he should then
have been a wandering savage. — We also visited the infant-
school, which was conducted in English, by a coloured native
of the place, and in which about sixty children were present.
13th. We visited the school taught by Isaac Hughes,
assisted by John Fortuin, a native, the brother of the infant-
school teacher. This school was held in the chapel. The lan-
guages taught were Dutch and Sechuana. The attendance was
about the same as in the infant-school. The whole popula-
tion of the place was at this time only about four hundred.
The pupils in the schools were clean and tidy, and the school-
rooms were creditably neat. Some of the children had ad-
vanced in arithmetic as far as Practice. The circumstances of
the country scarcely admit of the use of the more advanced
Rules. A considerable number of the children, and nearly the
whole of the adult Griquas could read the Bible. — Many of
the houses of Griqua Town were of raw brick, plastered with
clay and cow-dung. Lime entered largely into the composi-
tion of the clay, and consequently, the brick would not stand
when burnt ; in the raw state it endured the weather well.
15th. The people held a prayer meeting at an early hour.
At nine o'clock, the infant-school met in the infant-school-
room, the school for older children and adults, in the chapel.
448 GRiQUA TOWN. [9th mo.
and one for the more proficient readers, in a small apartment
adjoining. The number of the last was considerable, though
much below that of the two others. At ten o'clock the peo-
ple met for worship, in the chapel. Andries Waterboer ad-
dressed them first, in a lively, energetic manner, from the
sixtieth chapter of Isaiah ; I afterwards pointed out to the
congregation, that it was the Holy Spirit which had made the
things that were reprovable, manifest in their own hearts to
be sin, and had led them through repentance, to faith in
Christ, and thus brought comfort to their troubled souls; that
they had become a church of Christ, and had seen their
own Chief, with others in Africa, come also to the bright-
ness of the rising of the light of Christ. Much more
was also expressed in connexion with the striking prophecies
contained in the sixtieth chapter of Isaiah, on the fulfilment
of some of w^hich, I felt I could with confidence appeal to
them, on the ground of past and present experience; at the
same time, I pressed upon them the importance of continued
and increased attention to the hght of life, Avhich those have,
who truly believe in Christ the hght of the world.
In the afternoon, the schools again assembled for an hour ;
I afterwards addressed the Basutu, John Fortuin interpreting.
I was again under the necessity of speaking in Dutch, as
my interpreter was not familiat with English, but I was
enabled to proceed satisfactorily, believing him to be one
prepared, in some measure, to enter into my exercise of
mind. Sometimes it seemed to be one part of our service,
thus to bring others under our mental exercises, and it was a
means by which those who occupied prominent places in the
churches of this land, were made to feel more deeply the
force of those truths which we had to inculcate. No meetings
were held in the evening, a large number of the people living
at a distance.
16th. We were occupied in preparing for a journey to the
Kuruman and Motito, which we concluded to attempt in our
own wagon, with hired oxen, that were offered in Christian
sympathy, by some Griqua young men, who saw that neither
our own oxen nor horses were equal to the task.
CHAPTER XXVII.
Journey to the Kuruman. — Kogelbeen Fontein. — Cold. — Want of Comfort. —
Daniels Kuil. — First Purchase of Landed Property. — Sina Bergover. — The
Eland.— The Giraffe.— Kramers Fontein.— Unruly Cattle.— The Ostrich.—
— Roger Edwards and Lions. — Bushwoman and Baby. — Konings Fontein.
— Jackals and Quaggas. — Kuruman. — Buildings. — Gardens. — Population.
— R. Moffat. — Translation of the Scripture Lessons of the British and Foreign
School Society. — Motito. — Inhabitants. — Karrosses. — Maternal Affection.
— Makkwarin Fountain. — Tauns. — Kuruman. — Congregations. — Convert.
— Attendants. — Kosi Fountain. — Bushman Musick. — Acacia Robusta. —
Milk-bags. — Tsantsabane. — Minerals.— Uncaria. — Rhigozum. — Ongeluks
Fontein. — Moses Fontein. — Watering Cattle. — Griqua Town. — Boring-tools
and Pumps. — Congregational Church. — Aged Korannas. — Slavery. — Bush-
men destroyed. — Native Teachers. — Acquirements. — Slates. — Awakening. —
Deaconess.
9th mo. 17th. We set forward on our journey, toward the
Kuruman, having a Griqua, named Luke Vanderwesthuis, as
driver, the people wishing their oxen to be driven by a person
with whom they were acquainted. Our Hottentot, Abraham,
went as leader, and our own driver, Jeremiah Hayes, rode on a
horse belonging to Hendrik Hyns, who also accompanied us.
After travelling about twelve miles over a sharp road, on
gravel or hard limestone, we arrived at a mud pond, called
Kogelbeen Fontein. The water was about 5 feet from the
surface ; when the cattle, with some neighbouring herds, had
reduced it considerably, it sprung again freely, till it reached
the former level. In the afternoon we proceeded to the place
marked on maps Mimosa Station, and, outspanned by a
handsome bushy Acacia, with slender thorns, and elegant
small leaves, of a greyish green, probably. Acacia reticulata.
Antelopes and Lions are numerous here in winter, but the
water being dried up, both had now left this neighbourhood.
The country began to be grassy.
F F
450 DANIELS KUiL. [9th mo.
18th. There was much lightning and thunder in the night,
and in the forenoon there were heavy showers of hail and
rain ; the cold was so extremely pinching as to destroy many
calves. Our cattle, which were only eight slender ones,
having been tied to the yokes all night, we set forward early
in the morning, and rode to Jacobs Fountain, where our
driver hoped to get more oxen. Here we succeeded in kind-
ling a fire : the remainder of the day was spent in such a
way as our circumstances, with the cold, admitted. The men
were chiefly occupied in drying their clothes. I visited some
people who were living here in a wagon and some mat-huts ;
they also had raised a fire, at which they were warming them-
selves ; everything about them looked comfortless and for-
lorn, as must necessarily be the case in wet weather with such
poor accommodation. I could make but little out in conver-
sation with them, but they accepted a Dutch tract gratefully.
19th. One of our men was attacked in the night, with
violent spasms of the stomach ; another was also dangerously
ill from the cold. The day was showery and pinching, but
we travelled six hours and a half, to Daniels Kuil, Daniels
Den, a scattered settlement of cottages and mat huts. This
place was purchased by Waterboer from a Griqua Chief; this
purchase of landed property was the first which took place in
this country, where if a man broke up land, and cultivated it,
this act was considered to give him a right to the place, until
he abandoned it. The native name of Daniels Kuil signified
Elephants' Reeds, but elephants are not now found within a
great distance of this place ; its present inhabitants are con-
nected with Griqua Town ; they grow their corn here, being
able to irrigate the land from springs which rise under the
hills. We were kindly received by David and Sina Bergover.
Sina Bergover was a superior woman ; she had charge of the
school here, in which there were now about forty pupils;
sometimes they amounted to sixty: she also bore a large
share of the burden of the little church in this place, in which
she often laboured in word and doctrine. There were like-
wise two men who took part in the labour, but the gifts of
this " Deborah " being evidently such as to place her as " a
mother in Israel," they were prudently not restrained.
1839.] GRIQUA COUNTRY. 451
20th. Our herdsman said he heard a lion, at a distance,
in the night ; the barking of the dogs awoke me, and I Hs-
tened till sleep overcame me, but heard no lion's voice. Some
of the people who returned from hunting last evening, lost a
foal by lions, a few nights before ; it had strayed a little from
a mare that was tied to their wagon : they had been hunting
Giraffes and Elands, west of the Kuruman. Their wagons
returned to-day, laden with dried flesh and skins ; we obtained
some of the former for food on our journey. — The Eland,
Boselaphus Oreas, is an animal of the antelope family, about
six feet high at the shoulders, and nine feet from the nose to
the insertion of the tail ; the tail two feet ; its proportions
resemble those of a bull ; it has a deep dewlap descending to
the knees, and fringed with long, wiry, brown hair ; its horns
are about two feet long andnearly straight, but having a strong
spiral ridge. — The Giraffe or Cameleopard, Camelopardis
Giraffa, is so well known in England that it is unnecessary
to describe it here. — As the oxen were long in coming up,
we visited the school, which was kept in a long, mud build-
ing, used also as a chapel ; the pious mistress was catechizing
thirty-two children. We also walked to the Kuil or Den,
which is a hole in the limestone, thirty feet deep, and ten
feet across the mouth, widening a little downward ; it was
inhabited by pigeons ; it was now free from water, in conse-
quence of long drought. We travelled about seven miles,
under a continuation of schistose hills, and through a valley
having several springs, to Kramers Fontein, where we out-
spanned, intending to stop for an hour, not being likely soon
again to meet with water, and this necessary article being
good here. In the hollow, through which a brook flows in
rainy weather, there were a few Wild Olives and other trees,
and near it, there was a garden with peach trees, but at pre-
sent the houses were not here. The ground was undulating
and bushy, and there was a good supply of grass, which was
the chief covering of the plains and low hills to the east.
Among the drawing cattle, we had a miserable looking cow,
and several " bullocks unaccustomed to the yoke :" when
these were collected, some of them became unruly, broke
away, and ran off; they were pursued on horseback, but
F F 2
452 LION BUSHES. [9th mo.
before they were effectually secured, one of them got back
nearly to Daniels Kuil, three successive times ; the conse-
quent delay obliged us to stop all night at Kramers Fontein.
21st. We travelled about twenty-four miles, on grassy
country, with bushes, having the hills of silicious schistus
to the left ; we passed tvvo small hills with rocky tops, on
our right, in which direction the country was generally open.
Passing Neals Fountain, where there was now no water, we
outspanned for the night six miles further on the road, among
some thick, isolated bushes. Near to this place, we met five
Griquas, who were driving cattle, and were known to Vander-
westhuis; they turned back, to avail themselves of the society
of our people, for mutual protection against wild beasts, and
to obtain something to eat ; we were able to supply them with
a little Caffer-corn meal, and a small quantity of water to cook
it with. Lions are met with here at some seasons. Soon after
we were settled, a sound was heard that excited momentary
alarm, but it proved to he only the voice of a harmless Os-
trich. The voice of the Ostrich, Struthio Camelus, is some-
times so like that of a Lion, as not to be quickly distinguished,
especially by an unaccustomed ear. We saw several of these
birds, as well as a Bustard and some Vultures and Crows,
also a few Hartebeests, and some other animals of the ante-
lope tribe. We passed three Bushmen collecting the eggs of
White-ants, for food ; one of them came to the wagon to beg
tobacco ; they got water in a cave, to the east of the road, in
which several of them were destroyed a few years ago by
some Griquas.
22nd. The Griquas left before daylight, and our cattle
and one of the horses followed them several miles. While
the people were absent after them, I looked into a cave that
had a few trees about it, first, however, carefully examining
the neighbourhood, to be satisfied that it was clear of the
footprints of wild beasts ; it was such a place as imagination
might picture for a Lion's den ; lions are said generally to
lie under the shelter of bushes or rocks in this country.
A few months ago, Roger Edwards, a Missionary residing
at the Kuruman, had a narrow escape from Hons, near this
place. He was on his way from the Colony; and after resting
1839.] GRIQUA COUNTRY. 453
at Daniels Kuil, he had set out, with the intention of riding to
the Kuruman in the night, having a led horse, and being ac-
companied by a Hottentot, who rode a mare, by the side of
which a foal was running. Just as he arrived at some large,
scattered bushes, a sudden impression on his mind induced
him to alight from his horse, saying to the Hottentot, that they
would stop there. The Hottentot accordingly dismounted ;
they took oflF their saddles, knee-haltered the horses, turned
them loose to feed, and lay down under one of the bushes.
They had not been there many minutes, when the mare
screamed; they listened, and a lion roared; they raised them-
selves upon their knees ; the horses having got clear of their
knee-halters, gaUopped past them, taking the road toward the
Kuruman ; the mare followed as fast as she could, but her
knee-halter had been too tight to allow her to release herself
from it ; they were followed by four lions, at full speed ; a
fifth stopped short, and gazed for a time at the travellers, as
if deliberating whether to spring upon them, or to follow the
others. The moon was just setting, but it still cast sufficient
light to enable them to distinguish the terrific beast. The
Hottentot in alarm, began to make a noise, but was imme-
diately hushed by the Missionary, whose knees, though kneel-
ing, smote together, and who said, if ever he prayed in sin-
cerity, it was then, though it was a silent prayer. He thought
five minutes might elapse while they were thus situated, but
remarked, that it might not be so much, as under such cir-
cumstances, minutes necessarily seemed long. The lion at
length sprang upon the path, and went after the others. The
cries of the mare were heard at a distance, more and more
faintly, till they ceased. The Missionary and the Hottentot
agreed to listen, lest the lions should return ; as, in case of
such an event, a few low trees near them afforded a forlorn
hope of escape ; but overpowered by fatigue and fear, they
fell fast asleep, and did not awake till dawn of day.
In their first consciousness, they were in such terror as
scarcely to know whether they were still living inhabitants
of this world, or had been killed by lions. On coming to
themselves, they put their saddles and luggage into the trees,
to keep them from hyenas and jackals, and pursued their way
F F 3
454 KONiNGs FONTEiN. [9th mo.
to Konings Fontein. On arriving there, they soaked some
bread in water, but could not eat. The way seemed longer and
more tedious than ever before. At length R. Edwards said he
could proceed no further, and he lay down under some bushes.
The sound of human footsteps soon caught his attention,
and he desired the Hottentot, if they were those of Kuruman
people, to tell them that Edwards was there. They proved
to be Kuruman people, and he told them to go to the Kuru-
man, and tell Robert Moffat what had befallen him. They
set out, but the idea of obtaining help revived the exhausted
man ; he followed, and when Robert Moffat reached him, he
was bathing in the ford of the Kuruman River to refresh him-
self. The mare was eaten by the lions ; the foal had remained
with its mother till the claws or teeth of a lion had been
applied to its throat ; it had then gone off with the horses,
with which it was afterwards found. R. Edwards said, that
up to the moment on which he received the impression to
stop there, his intention was to ride to the Kuruman ; and
that he could not but account the impression to be from the
Lord, for he had no doubt that the lions were watching by
the bushes, and that, if he and his companion had gone a
few yards further, they would have sprung upon them.
Want of water obliged us to travel on First-day, but it
was eleven o'clock before we started. In the meantime, a
Bushwoman, with a baby, came to the wagon to beg tobacco.
These people, like the Ostriches, start up in the desolate
wilderness, where no living creature would be expected. Luke
Vanderwesthuis said this woman was sister to the man we
saw yesterday ; she told us that they now got water in rain-
pools, not far distant. A little bread and dried flesh seemed
very grateful to her ; the former we used only once a day,
our stock being low. The Bushmen quickly discern whether
they may safely approach a wagon, having a pretty correct idea
where they will meet with a friendly reception. In the after-
noon, we arrived at Konings Fontein, Kings fountain, a spring
forming a large, shallow pool, the margin of which, as well as
some marshy ground below it, is clothed with reeds. Along
the bank, there are arboreous Acacias, and large bushes.
This place is a great resort for wild animals ; lions are often
1839.] BECHUANA COUNTRY. 455
very troublesome here. A man at Daniels Kuil told us,
that about a fortnight previously, he was obliged to tie up
his oxen when here, and to sit by them all night, cracking
his whip to frighten off the lions. We had not intended
remaining here over night, but the oxen were too weak to
proceed : as there were now no lions' footprints to be seen,
Luke turned the cattle loose to graze. After washing and
taking some food, we read with our company, and spent the
remainder of the day as a day of rest.
23rd. No lions were permitted to disturb us. Jackals
began to cry as soon as the sun set, as did also some birds,
in the marsh ; frogs at the same time began a rattling croak,
which they kept up through the night. The cattle and horses
were collected in the evening, and fastened to the yokes and to
the wagon ; they remained quiet, except an unruly horse, that
disturbed us frequently. A troop of Quaggas, which came to
drink, rushed impetuously through the marsh, several times,
being alarmed by our dogs, and by jackals, that perse veringly
hunted their foals.— Our journey to-day was over a similar coun-
try to that on which we had travelled lately, and through a shal-
low sandy, valley, where the grass and bushes were stronger,
and there were some large Acacias ; on the rocks, a gay Aloe
was in flower. Six hours brought us to the Little Kuruman,
where a stream that would turn a mill, issues from under
some rocks, and there are a few habitations. In another
hour we were safely at the Kuruman Missionary Station, where
we met a kind welcome from Roger Edwards and his wife,
and their aged coadjutor, Robert Hamilton.
The Kuruman Missionar}^ Station, which is sometimes
called New Lattakoo, is situated by the side of the Kuruman
River, a clear, permanent stream, which rises at the Little
Kuruman, disappears at intervals, a few miles further from its
source, and at length is only marked by a dry water course,
except in rainy weather. At the Missionary Station, the back
of which, is represented in the accompanying etching, its
margin is planted with willows, and its waters are employed in
irrigating some fertile gardens and corn-lands ; below these,
there is a piece of marshy ground, on which rice has sometimes
been grown. The houses of the Missionaries, which are plain
456 KURUMAN. [9th mo.
dwellings, in rural farm-house style, and the other buildings
stand in a line, on the side of the road, opposite to the gardens.
They are built of hard, dove-coloured limestone, and thatched.
The chapel wiU hold upwards of 1,000 people. Behind the
houses, there are several patches of the low, thorny. Acacia
Lattaku; among these, the burial-ground is situated; it is
marked by a few little piles of stones. Contiguous to the
Station, there are several Bechuana villages ; others are scat-
tered more remotely on the side of the river, and in the adja-
cent country. Wood is so scarce, that the timber used for
the roof of the chapel was brought from the neighbourhood
of Mosega, distant about 200 miles.
24th. We walked with Roger Edwards through the gar-
dens, in which there are Peach, Fig, Pomegranate, Quince,
Apricot, Apple, Plum, and Pear trees, as well as Vines, of suf-
ficient growth to afford the missionary families an ample
supply of fruit, both to use fresh and in a dried state. Great
vigilance is required here to save the grain from birds ; it is
also liable to be destroyed by summer frosts. Many of the
natives now on the Station, had had their crops destroyed,
and were suffering for want of necessary food : they were
of the Batlapee, or Batlapin tribe of Bechuanas, with a
few Barolongs, and persons of other tribes. About 3,000
were sometimes resident at this place. The principal Chief
of the Batlapees was Mothibi; he fled from hence many years
ago, and was now settled at Lekatlong, near the junction of
the Hart and Vaal Rivers. Being favourable to Christianity,
those of his people who had come under the influence of the
Gospel, associated themselves with him, while those that re-
mained attached to heathenism were with a younger brother,
named Mahura, at a place called Tauns, further northward,
and on the Kolong or Hart River. They were occasionally
visited from the Kuruman, notwithstanding the distance is
about 110 miles. R. Edwards attended to the school for
adolescent children at the Kuruman, and his wife to the
infant-school; both were very fluctuating in regard to the
number of pupils, in consequence of the state and occupation
of the parents. — The selection from the Scriptures, used by
the British and Foreign School Society, had been translated
1839.] BECHUANA COUNTRY. 457
by Robert Moffat, into the dialect of Sechuana spoken here,
and printed by him and his coadjutors.
Robert Moffat was at this time in England, where I met
him on my return thither, in 1841. By the liberal contri-
butions of many persons of the Society of Friends, I was
enabled to supply him with the means of printing six thou-
sand copies of the Scripture Lessons of the British and
Foreign School Society, in the Sechuana language, which is
the tongue of the Bechuana people. These were appropri-
ated to the use of the natives of this part of the country, to
that of those associated with the Wesleyans at Thaba Unchu
and other places, and to that of those connected with the
Paris Missionary Society. There is not, perhaps, among the
Bechuana tribes, from the Kuruman to the Quathlamba
Mountains, a greater diversity of dialect than is to be found
in the English, of the various counties of Great Britain ; and
it is easy to see, where this is the case, how great an advan-
tage would result from having but one printed language or
dialect.
Being desirous of proceeding to Motito, for which journey
the cattle from Griqua Town were not equal, R. Edwards
provided us with a fine stout span of his own oxen; his wife
supplied us with several articles of food, and accompanied by
a Batlapee guide, named Tabatow, we proceeded over a
sandy, grassy country, to Makkwarin Fountain, distant six
miles.
25th. Our route continued over flat, sandy, grassy coun-
try, varied by the upper limestone lying to the surface. In
this case it is covered with bushes, and supports small trees,
in some places, especially near pools ; we passed a few of
these, and spent a short time at noon, by the side of one of
them. Antelopes of various species, Quaggas, Ostriches,
Guinea-fowl, Ducks, Pigeons, and Crov/s were numerous, but
we saw no formidable wild beasts. Soon after sunset we ar-
rived at Motito, a station of the Paris Missionary Society,
and were welcomed by Prosper and Eleonore Lemue, and
Jean and Graciette Lauga.
Motito, which is represented in the accompanying cut, is
situated about ten miles west of the low, conical hill of
458
MOTITO.
[9th mo.
Takoon, from which Old Lattakoo took its name. After that
station was deserted, in consequence of invasion by some na-
tive hordes, the Missionaries of the Paris Society re-occupied
J^tito, ^aris jl^ltssionan) Station.
it, but they subsequently removed to Motito, on account of
the latter place being better supplied with water. The most
remote house in the cut is the mission-house, the nearer ones
are a chapel and a store. They are built of raw brick.
26th. We had a religious interview with about 300 of the
people, in the forenoon, whom we addressed on the things
that belong to eternal life, through the medium of P. Lemue ;
they are principally Barolongs, but there are among them,
some of the Batlapee and Batlaro tribes. They have settled
here for the convenience of cultivating the ground, several
springs breaking out where the limestone terminates against
a basaltic dyke, at the other side of which, there is primitive
sandstone, forming low hills. Some of the ground is so wet
as to require draining, a very unusual circumstance in this
part of Africa. The water is available for irrigation, to a
small extent. The crops were, nevertheless, defective last
year ; and consequently, many of the people were now out
hunting, along with some from Philippolis. This station had
been occupied since 1832. There were about 1,000 people
1839.] BECHUANA COUNTRY. 459
living in little contiguous villages. The huts of the natives
had thatched tops, and fences of dry brushwood around them.
The missionary families, who were the most remote labourers
in the Gospel in this direction, expressed much satisfaction
at receiving a christian visit.
We purchased a few karrosses and wooden spoons from the
natives, who manufacture them. The former are made up
very neatly, of the skins of small beasts, such as the Bonte-
kat, Genetta felina, the Jackal, Canis mesomelas, the Bastard
Jackal or Asse, Canis Chama, the Caracal, Rodekat or Cape
Lynx, Felis Caracal, &c. A man from this place or from the
Kuruman, will take a roll of tobacco, weighing about 71bs. and
if he have no dogs he will hire some, and go to the Kalagare
Desert, which is said to be flat, sandy ground, with little water
but what is obtained by digging, and producing Kameeldoom
and bushes ; he will be absent two or three months, living
on what he can catch ; he will eat wild roots, but will not
refuse lions, or other carnivorous animals. In the course of
this time, he will obtain as many skins of the Genet, the
Lynx, and the Common and Bastard Jackal, as will make a
couple of karrosses ; and as many of the Meerkat, Ryzaena
typicus, or of the Roodmuis, Cynictis Steedmanii, as will make
one of smaller dimensions. These skins require about a week
to tan and prepare ; with the assistance of his friends, a man
will make them up in another week. They are beautifully
sewed with sinews, put through holes, made with a pointed,
iron instrument. The larger karrosses they will sell, after all
this labour, for 12s. or 18s. each, and the smaller, for from
4s. 6d. to 7s. 6d. In this country the men sew, and the
women cultivate the ground. The people here had killed
and eaten five lions within a few months.
27th. After breakfast we took leave of our kind friends at
Motito, many of the natives crowded to give us a last shake
of the hand. One of these, a member of their church, of
whom there were twelve, joined us, going as a messenger to
the Kuruman. A woman from Tauns, took the advantage of
accompanying the wagon. She trudged briskly on before,
with a bundle on her head, and often carrying a child of about
three years old, not even asking for help. When, however,
460 KURUMAN. [9th mo.
help was offered, she gratefully accepted it. Her errand
was to visit another child ; maternal affection had induced
her to make this journey, undefended, through a country
where Lions and Chetas are not uncommon. — Our guide had
fears of stopping at one of the fountains which we passed ;
it was a httle out of the wagon track, and among Doom-
boom trees and bushes ; he alleged that lions lay there, but
we found that none were there at this time. We outspanned
at a distance from water; the oxen were made fast, lest, being
near home, they should stray in that direction.
28th. We reached the Makkwarin River by sunrise. There
is a small Bechuana village here, the place being favourable
for cattle, and to a limited extent, for cultivation. The
water stands in pools, and in some places, runs from one pool
to another, but soon sinks into the ground again ; it is at too
low a level for irrigation. We obtained a little milk and a few
other articles from some of the people. After five hours, we
again pursued our journey resting an hour at noon, on ac-
count of the heat, which was too oppressive for the cattle
to drag the wagon on a heavy, sandy road. Soon after sunset
we reached the Kuruman, where we again became the guests
of Roger Edwards. Robert Hamilton was gone on the weekly
itinerating excursion, to the Lower Kuruman, fifteen miles
distant, where there were from 1,000 to 1,500 people, and
to Harman, ten miles off, where there were two villages,
containing about 300 inhabitants. About once in three
months, one of the Missionaries visited Tauns, where fifteen
villages were visible from one place, and there were others
more remote. The population at Tauns was estimated at
from 10,000 to 15,000. About twenty miles further, they
visited some Baharoutsi refugees, under a Chief, named
Moiloe, probably the same as Mokhatla, who were esti-
mated at 5,000. These were driven from their country
around Mosega, by the Zoolu warrior, Moselekatse, with
whom,successively, the French and the American missionaries
laboured. After possessing himself of the country, he made
an attack upon the cattle of some of the emigrant farmers, and
carried off some of them ; the farmers in return invaded him,
destroyed his power, and drove him further into the interior.
1839.] BECHUANA COUNTRY. 461
When he fled he allowed such of the Baharoutsi, as had re-
mained with him as vassals, to stay in their own country ;
he was supposed to have been destroyed in the land into
which he fled. Thirty miles further east from the Kuruman,
the missionaries visited some people of a race of Korannas,
termed Bechuana Bushmen, about 300 in number, under
Mosheu, a Christian Chief, a large part of whose people left
him on his receiving the Gospel ; Mosheu wisely valued
"the power of an endless life^' more than temporal power.
An interesting account of this Chief, occurs in the volume
entitled " Missionary Labours and Scenes in South Africa,"
by Robert Moff"at.
29th. The infant-school assembled in the chapel, and that
for adults in a school-house formerly used as a chapel. The
houses were soon left on account of the heat, and the pupils
arranged themselves in groups under some trees. At eleven
o'clock about 300 people met for worship in the chapel.
Some of them came from a distance ; I addressed them at
some length, through the medium of R. Edwards. Schools
were again held at two ; and at three, an assembly for wor-
ship met, in which my companion bore testimony to the
goodness and mercy of God in Christ Jesus, and to the im-
portance of following the guidance of the Spirit of Truth. In
the evening, a company of the people assembled again ; a
portion of Scripture was read to them, from the selection
used by the British and Foreign School Society, printed in
their own tongue, in which they have also a collection of
hymns. The congregation was remarkably clean and neat ;
most of them were dressed either in garments of British manu-
facture, or of a soft kind of leather, of their own preparing ;
170 were members, including a few at the Lower Kuruman
and other neighbouring places. Many of these appeared to be
really pious, and walking in great self-denial among their hea-
then countrymen. — I had some conversation with a very aged
woman, who was driving a refractory grandchild to school.
At the time of her conversion, she was one of whom the
missionaries entertained no hope. She had long been an
encourager of the most revoltingly immoral customs of her
nation, and an enemy to the restraints of the Gospel. Now
462 KURUMAN. [10th mo.
she had become an example to the behevers ; and she said,
she was striving to hold on her way, trusting in the Lord^s
mercies. — Robert Hamilton returned in the evening. I felt
much unity of spirit with him. After labouring for many
years, it was a great comfort to him to see a little of the fruit
of his labours.
30th. We called on David Hume, a Scotchman, who had
a store here, from which he supplied the natives with British
manufactures in exchange for karrosses, skins, &c. — We en-
gaged two young men to accompany us during the residue of
our journey. One of these, named Montingoe, was a Baro-
long, and a member of the church ; the other, Seberioe, was
a steady, young Batlapee, not making so open a profession of
Chistianity ; both of them had wives and families, respecting
whom, necessary arrangements were made. — Roger Edwards
and David Hume accompanied us on our return to Griqua
Town, as far as the Little Kuruman ; here we went into the
cave, out of which the rivulet flows ; it is an opening, like a
passage, in the upper limestone. Broken bones were lying
in it, as if some wild beast occasionally visited it. There
were fish in the stream for about twenty yards up the open-
ing ; the place was evidently the resort of the Cape Otter,
Lutra inungius. Bats were the most numerous inhabitants,
except Wasps, the naked nests of a species of which, hung
so thickly, both about the entrance and some smaller open-
ings, as to render great care necessary in passing them. The
rocks above were bushy ; there were some reeds where the
water, which soon spread itself into a large pool, emerged.
R. Edwards and D. Hume returned from the Little Kuru-
man ; and we, taking a different route from the one by which
we came, proceeded to the Kammani Pass.
10th mo. 1st. We proceeded through the Pass, winding
among stony hills, generally covered with grass, but in some
places bushy, with here and there a Kameeldoorn tree. Woods
of Kameeldoorn were visible to the westward, in the direction
of the Langeberg mountains, which were sometimes in sight.
At eleven o'clock we outspanned, and returned the oxen which
had brought us hither, by the hand of our late guide Tabatow,
who belonged to the Baharoutsi nation ; the oxen were lent
1839.] BECHUANA COUNTRY. 463
US by R. Edwards, to help those from Griqua Town, which
were improved by their rest, but were still too weak for the
journey. We reached Kosi Fountain before sunset, and were
glad again to come to a pool of water, having seen none since
the previous afternoon. At this place, there were two little
werfs of Bechuanas, among whom were a few Bushmen.
2nd. The native teacher at this place being gone to Griqua
Town, we were unable to hold communication with the peo-
ple on religious subjects. — The Bechuanas use skin-bags for
milk ; they contain from one to five gallons, have a handle
and a large plug at the top, and a small wooden pin at the
lower corner. The people hang them up in their huts, or
on a branch, with several forks, placed in their court-yards.
One of our attendants having given information that we
wished to procure some milk, the wagon was soon sur-
rounded with parties bringing it for sale, in vessels scooped
out of willow-wood, which resembled large jars; they are
called Cabouses. Seven gallons were purchased, some of
which was fresh, and some sufficiently sour for present use ;
it was a feast both for ourselves and our people, and saved
other provisions. Payment was chiefly made in buttons, which
were not used here, as in CafFraria, for ornament, but for
securing garments, neatly made of soft leather, &c. A few
cotton handkerchiefs were also among the articles of barter.
A sheep was purchased for a handkerchief worth about nine-
pence, and a flock was ofl'ered on similar terms. Traders sel-
dom came this way, and consequently, goods were more va-
lued. Where traders resort, the relative value of articles is
better understood ; nevertheless a high price is generally de-
manded for them. The people in places little frequented,
have little idea of the worth of the things they want in ex-
change, and they will often ask more than the value for what
they have to dispose of. Among the articles ofl'ered for sale
this morning, was a bag of honey; the price asked was about
equal to one shilling a pound. Some of the Bushmen brought
ostrich eggs for sale at a moderate price. The heads of some
of the Bushmen were ornamented with an ostrich feather, on
each side ; these people make a sort of music by striking
their bows with a stick; they form a peculiar musical
464 TSANTSABANE. [10th mo.
instrument with a bow and a quill. Though the lowest in
civilization among the inhabitants of Southern Africa, they
are the only tribe that practice instrumental musick and
painting.
Our route, from this place, lay over stony, bushy hills, and
sandy flats, all abounding with grass, growing in tufts. We
stopped an hour at sunset, to rest the cattle, and then tra-
velled on till nine o'clock. The stiff, bushy Acacia robusta,
with hooked thorns, abounds in this part of the country : it
was now covered with a profusion of globular heads of fra-
grant, white flowers, which rendered it sufficiently conspicu-
ous to be avoided in the dark ; otherwise travelling amongst
it would have been difficult. The deep furrows in the road,
left by rain, rendered travelling in the dark far from agree-
able, even when two persons walked before the wagon to give
notice of danger. It is very common in Africa to travel in
the night, on account of the heat, but this we always endeav-
oured to avoid ; our oxen stood their work better than is
commonly the case, and we made as good progress as other
people on long journeys. On one part of the road, there
were fresh footprints of Antelopes and of a large animal of
the Cat tribe, which we concluded might be a Cheta.
3rd. We reached Tsantsabane or Blink Klip, early in the
forenoon. This place is a small settlement of Batlara Bechu-
anas, some of whom, as well as a few Griquas residing near,
were members of the Griqua-town Church. Their teacher
being from home, we could not hold communication with the
Bechuanas, on religious subjects ; but the Griquas assembled
in the little chapel, and I spoke to them under a feeling of
interest, which I believe, it would have been wrong in me to
have gone away without expressing. After a pause, one of
them gave out a hymn, which they sang; he afterwards prayed
in terms which proved that they had understood my Dutch,
and felt the importance of the doctrine inculcated. A school
was usually held here, but it was now suspended, the mistress
having locked up the books, and gone on a visit to Philip-
polis. This place takes the name of Blink Klip, which sig-
nifies Shining Stone, from a mineral, possibly Plumbago,
which is found in the neighbourhood. The natives smear
1839.] GRIQUA COUNTRY. 4G5
their hair with it, when mixed with grease. A red stone is
also obtained here, which they powder and combine in the
same way, for smearing their bodies. These minerals form
articles of traffic to distant parts. — A spring at this place
irrigates a small piece of cultivated ground ; there is another
issuing from under the upper limestone, about three miles
off, and irrigating a piece of land, near to which the teacher
and his family resided.
4th. The thermometer rose to 97° ; and the heat was so
oppressive, that we were obliged to stop twice. The country
was of similar character to that we had travelled over since
coming through the Kammani Pass. Several species of Ma-
hernia were in flower on the plain, on which the large, dou-
bly thorned capsules of Uncariaprocumbens, the Grapple-plant,
were scattered. This plant is said to have large, beautiful,
purple blossoms. On low stony hills, two, if not three, spe-
cies of Rhigozum were in flower. These are bushes of about
4 feet in height, with small foliage, and handsome yellow,
white or pinkish, trumpet-shaped flowers, an inch and a half
across. Some of them, especially the yellow one, R. trichoto-
mum, are sometimes marked beautifully with dark lines in
the throat of the tube. — Toward evening, the sky became
overcast, and there was some thunder. It was so dark when
we reached Ongeluks Fontein, Unlucky Fountain, that I fell
over a projecting piece of basalt, and cut my face. We were
glad to outspan on a stony place, lest by proceeding, we
should meet with some more serious accident, finding that
we were in a dangerous position, by the side of a rocky
ravine. After taking some food, we had devotional reading,
as usual, with our people ; and the mercy of our Heavenly
Father was commemorated, in having protected and preserved
us hitherto.
5th. Many of the Bechuanas who resided here, on land
belonging to a Griqua, named Cupido Kok, brought milk to
sell for buttons ; about a dozen of these were reckoned equal
in value to threepence. After breakfast, a span of oxen,
kindly sent to meet us, by Isaac Hughes, were yoked, the
others being nearly exhausted, and we proceeded to Moses
Fontein, which, like the last, was on basalt. The water was
G G
466 GRiQUA TOWN. [10th mo.
several feet from the surface, and as pumps had not been in-
troduced into this part of Africa, it was thrown up by means
of wooden bowls, into a place for the cattle to drink at. In
this laborious way, our whole herd of thirty-two oxen, and
several horses, had been watered during our absence. The road
from Moses Fontein lay over the stony hills of silicious schis-
tus ; they were covered with bushes, which admitted a person
to walk between them. Many of these were in blossom, as
well as numerous plants of humbler growth. Before sunset,
we were favoured to reach Griqua Town, where we again
met a hearty welcome.
In the course of this journey, we noticed, that wherever,
from the influence of a basaltic vein, or any other cause,
there was a considerable depression in the great limestone
plain, extending from Griqua Town to Motito, water was met
with, either in pools, or in springs ; that from the latter, after
flowing a few yards, was again lost in the earth. This con-
vinced us, that water might be obtained without sinking to a
great depth, throughout this part of the country, which abound-
ed in tufted grass, that, in many places remained unbrowsed,
because there was nothing for the cattle to drink. On this ac-
count, a portion of the money subsequently committed to my
charge, for the benefit of the Griquas, was expended in the
purchase of a set of boring-tools, and a number of cast-iron
pumps, which have been transmitted to this part of the country.
6th. This was a day on which many of the members of
the Griqua Town church assembled from the various out-
stations. The congregation, this morning, amounted to be-
tween 400 and 500. After the singing, reading and prayer
were gone through as usual, by John Fortuin, my companion
addressed them, on the power of the cross of Christ, and the
necessity of believers becoming crucified to the world, and
knowing the world to be crucified to them. Isaac Hughes
interpreted into Dutch, and Lukas Kok, of Blink Klip, into
Sechuana and Koranna. There was a sweet sense of divine
influence over the meeting, at the conclusion of which, several
persons were admitted as members, by the administration of
the rite of water-baptism. Each case had been previously
deliberated upon by the church collectively. The schools
1839.] GRIQUA COUNTRY. 407
also met in the morning, but were not held in the afternoon,
the time being occupied by a meeting of the members of the
church, which was on the congregational plan. We were pre-
sent at this meeting by invitation. This more select company
amounting to about 300, was favoured with a still more
powerful sense of the divine overshadowing than in the morn-
ing. We had further counsel to convey to them, on their
responsibility, in regard to spreading the knowledge of the
Gospel, by a holy life, and the exercise of the various gifts
which they had received of the Holy Spirit, for the extension
and edification of the church of Christ. The advantages of the
members, being united in church-discipline, was striking here,
notwithstanding many of them had but lately emerged from
heathenism. It gave them a feeling of responsibility, highly
conducive to their own growth in grace. In the afternoon,
John Fortuin interpreted for me, out of Dutch into Hottentot,
while I addressed a company of Korannas and Griquas, on
the peaceable and loving spirit of the Gospel, which had been
too often lost sight of, especially by the Korannas. On this
occasion, I often referred to passages in the Dutch Testa-
ment, and by the help of the numbers of the chapters and
verses, the corresponding ones were readily found by J. Fortuin,
in J. H. Schmelen^s Hottentot version, from which he read
them, and by which he was greatly assisted. We afterwards
went into the Bechuana congregation, where Isaac Hughes
interpreted what I had to say, which was chiefly on the im-
portance of walking with God, and of Christians "having salt
in themselves, and being at peace one with another.^* In
the evening, the people met to partake of what is called, the
Lord's Supper ; we believed it our place, meanwhile,to wait
upon the Lord in silence, seeking counsel respecting our
future proceedings; some having advised us to take one
route, and others, another.
7th. A meeting of the members of the church, and of in-
quirers, was held in the forenoon. Three Korannas from the
neighbourhood of the Orange River, who had been stirred
up to seek the Lord in their old age, were among the latter :
their cases excited considerable interest. One of them said,
he had listened to the Gospel for a time, when it was first
G G 2
468 GRiQUA TOWN. [10th mo.
preached in this part of the country, but afterwards fell away
from it. Another said, he had also heard the message of
salvation, hut had despised it, and had trusted in his own
strength and temporal power for satisfaction : he was then a
Chief, and strong in body ; but he had been deprived of his
people, his strength had waned away, and he now saw, that
these things were but vanity, and that substantial comfort
was only to be had in Christ. To these old men, as well as
to others of the company, we had much counsel to convey.
The affairs of this church were conducted in great simplicity,
the members at large taking an interest in them. The mem-
bers of other churches,bringing certificates, were also admitted
to sit with them in their deliberations ; this was the case
with our attendant Motingoe, from the Kuruman. — In the
evening, the meeting of the Griqua Town Auxiliary to the
London Missionary Society took place ; at which subscrip-
tions were reported, and several addresses were delivered. I
made some remarks on the manner in which the diffusion of
the Gospel took place in early times, and denounced slavery,
into which the Griquas were in danger of bringing the Bush-
men, and some others of the native tribes, at least, in some
instances. The Bechuanas also exercise great oppression
upon a race of people among them, who are in an extremely
degraded state of vassalage. I believed it my place, to point
out the contrariety of slavery to the precepts of the Gospel ;
and to declare slavery to be cursed of God, and to assert,
that it brought a curse upon all engaged in it.
8th. This morning many Griquas and Bechuanas called at
Isaac Hughes's house ; among the latter was one who had
been with a hunting-party, in the Baharoutsi country, which
he said was full of people, but they were very poor. This
man confirmed a report we had heard, of some of the Boors
having emigrated to the banks of a river N.E. of Mosega,
and having carried off Baharoutsi children. — Some Bush-
men were lately destroyed by a party of Griquas, in this
neighbourhood, under the following circumstances. The
Griquas foresaw, at the beginning of the winter, that from
the state of the country, the Bushmen would be pressed by
hunger ; they invited them to come to Griqua Town, and
1839.] GRIQUA COUNTRY. 469
share the trial of scarcity with themselves. This the Bush-
men declined ; in the time of trial, they stole and killed cattle
belonging to the Griquas, who became exasperated, and were
desirous of going out against the depredators. Andries Water-
boer and Peter Wright were at this time in Cape Town.
Isaac Hughes used all his influence to prevent the expedition ;
when he could no longer hinder it, he set before the par-
ties, the responsibility of taking human life. This, the tem-
porary captain, acting on behalf of Waterboer, in his absence,
promised to avoid ; but in the time of excitement, when a
party of Bushmen, who had taken refuge in a cave, refused
to surrender, they were destroyed by setting on fire, fuel
collected at the cave's mouth. Some of the persons on
this " commando " were members of the church ; they con-
sidered themselves under the necessity of going out on the
occasion, as soldiers, because commanded by the captain.
Such are the grievous errors which are run into, for want of
understanding that all war is contrar)'^ to the Gospel, and
that man is only bound actively to obey, where the commands
of those in authority are consonant with the laws of God.
In all other cases, his duty as a Christian is, to say, " Whe-
ther it be right in the sight of God to hearken unto you more
than unto God, judge ye."
9th. The number of members of the Griqua Town church
was, at this time, 630. Since 1834, there had been excluded
for misconduct, 10; died, 18 ; removed to other stations, 10 ;
total 38. The largest proportion of the members were Bechu-
anas of different tribes : the number of Griquas was next in
amount. Few Korannas or Bushmen had been admitted into
the church. At eight out-stations there were schools, most
of which were conducted by natives, who had small salaries
for this part of their service; their religious labours were gra-
tuitous. Nearly all the adult and adolescent Griquas could
read the Scriptures; the majority of the Korannas and Bechu-
anas had not yet attained the art of reading, and but very
few of the Bushmen. The last are a very unsettled people.
There were about 140 Bechuanas in the First-day schools,
exclusive of 150 at the Batlapi towns on the Vaal River;
making 290 adult scholars. About forty adults, nearly all
G G 3
470 GRIQUA TOWN. [lOth HIO.
Griquas, could write. There were about 800 children in the
schools, 270 of whom could read. Writing had hitherto been
taught only in the school at Griqua Town, where thirty-five
had copybooks. In arithmetic, twenty had reached Multi-
plication, fifteen Division, and ten Reduction and Practice.
The slates used in the Griqua Town school were obtained in
a kloof, to the eastward ; they were thick, but answered the
designed purpose well.
Previous to the awakening which took place among the
Bechuana tribes in this part of the country, some increased
pains had been taken in visiting the people in their huts,
reading the Scriptures to them, talking to them respecting
their fallen state, and the mercy offered to the penitent. The
awakening began with a man who had gained an ascendancy
almost equal to a Chief : he fell down in the congregation,
overpowered by conviction ; but being unwilling that the
people should be disturbed, he crept out on his hands and
knees, to bemoan his sinful state ; he became a believer in
Jesus, and his heart was changed by the power of divine
grace. At this time, he had several wives ; he called them
together, told them that he had lived in sin long enough, and
that, except the first, they must all leave him ; he then divided
his substance with them, and sent them away. This circum-
stance, and the change in the man, excited great inquiry in
the country, as to what the *^ great Word" could be, that had
produced such a change. The report reached the tribes living
on the Hart River, and some young men, who were in the
school, taught by James Read, in the early days of the Kuru-
man Mission, calling to remembrance something of what
they had then heard, came to Griqua Town, to learn some-
thing more respecting the Gospel. They brought provisions
with them, and when these were expended, they went back,
and imparted the knowledge they had acquired to their coun-
trymen. In a few months they returned, and they made
repeated visits of this kind. They drank in knowledge as
the thirsty ground drinks in water, and soon acquired a con-
siderable understanding respecting the principles of the Gos-
pel; their minds also became enlightened by the Holy Spirit,
and they were made instrumental in an extensive conversion
1839.] GRIQUA COUNTRY. 471
to Christianity, in a district where there was little instru-
mental labour except through the medium of these and of
of other native teachers.
10th. Several of the people called to take leave of us ;
among them was an aged deaconess of the church ; she was
of the Bechuana nation, and interpreted for Isaac Hughes,
when he was unable to speak the language with facility. She
remarked, that without fresh wood, the fire was in danger of
going out ; but added, that now that they had got a little
fresh fuel, she hoped they might burn up brightly. This was
in allusion to our visit, which seemed to have encouraged
them. J'
CHAPTER XXVIII.
Departure from GriquaTown. — Thirsty Bees. — GreatOrange River. — Reads Drift.
— Irrigation by Pumps. — Thunder-storm. — Madrepores. — Road. — Country.
— Animals. — Track of Oxen. — The Caracal.— Duwvenaars Fontein. — Sentence
for Maltreating a Hottentot. — Plants. — Desolate Country. — Leeuw Fontein.
Christianity and Heathenism. — Bokke Kraal. — Lions. — Dung Beetles. — Bush-
man and Lion. — Cold. — Winter Veld. — Vee Boor. — Vast Herd of Springboks.
— Forsaken Houses. — Sick Child. — Trespass of Cattle. — Meal-times of the
Boors. — First-day. — Sneeuwbergen. — Forget-me-not. — Graaff Reinet. — A. and
M. Murray. — Congregations. — Jail. — Lions. — Eagles. — Mesembryanthemums.
— Opuntia. — Great Karroo. — The Roode Reebok. — Tortoises. — Seeds. — Vel
Schoenen. — Insects. — Gastronema. — Ostrich Nest. — Traveller. — Ostrich Eggs,
— Fossil Bones. — Beaufort. — Effect of heat upon the "Wagon. — Jail. — Tem-
perance. — State of the Karroo. — Bushmen and Boors. — Capital Punishment.
10th mo.llth. We took leave of Isaac and Elizabeth Hughes,
under a feeling of much christian love, and proceeded down a
valley in the direction of the Great Orange River. We passed
a Bechuana village at Groote Doom. At this place, there is
a pool, at which the horses and cattle drank ; thirsty bees
crowded round its margin, water being scarce in the neigh-
bourhood. Pursuing the dry course of the Sand River, we
reached Bees Fountain, which was dried up, and outspanned
for the night under the lea of a clump of Kameeldoorns.
12th. The dawn of the day was enlivened by the cooing
of Turtledoves and the chattering of Guineafowl. Some of
the low hills about this place are of limestone, others of fer-
ruginous silicious schistus; they were decorated with gay,
yeUow and white bushes of Rhigozum ; many other shrubs
were also now in blossom. We reached the open flat at
Reads Drift, by the side of the Great Orange River, before
noon, and heard human voices, but the people fled before
we came to them. After some search, we discovered a few
huts among the bushes, near the river, which, at this place.
1839.] BUSHMAN COUNTRY. 473
is broad and thickly margined with willows and other trees.
Here we found Lenaart Bahe, a Bushman teacher, belonging
the Griqua Town church, and a smith, called " Oud Piet," Old
Peter, the latter of whom repaired the drag-shoe of our wagon,
while we conversed with the people. At first, they seemed
scarcely to understand our speech ; but they gladly accepted
a few tracts, and took charge of an axe-head for Cupido Kok ;
it was a part of the small recompense he received for the feed-
ing of our cattle, during our absence at Motito. These people
were very desirous that we should stay with them over the
morrow; but they admitted, that to cross the river now, while
it was fordable, was the safest for us, as there were threaten-
ings of rain, and it had already been flooded three times this
year.
When all was ready, one of the men waded over the river
before the wagon, supporting himself by a long stick, and
others assisted with the loose horses. In some places, the
current was considerable, and the water up to the naves of the
wheels, but we were all favoured to reach the opposite shore
in safety. — On the flat of the Orange River, at this place, some
ground was lately cultivated under irrigation by pumps, but
a flood washed down the work which supported the machi-
nery, and in consequence, the operations were suspended.
The water required to be raised about 30 feet.
13th. Being First-day, we twice spent a little time in
silent waiting upon the Lord. I was sensible of the presence
of the Comforter, notwithstanding being at intervals over-
powered with drowsiness, with which I was often much op-
pressed, especially in a close wagon and in hot weather.
Solitary walks were much more lively devotional opportuni-
ties to myself, but it did not seem right to give up the other.
We also read with the people, having likewise the company of
'' Oud Piet, " who was a thoughtful, discreet man, and of
Lenaart Balie and some of his sons and grandsons ; they
brought us some milk, the men wading and the boys swim-
ming over the river. One of the sons remained, to shew us
the way on the morrow. In returning, the whole party
waded, the men holding the boys by the hand. Custom and
skill made them count little of crossing, either in this way,
474 ORANGE RIVER. [lOth mO.
when the water was low, or by swimming, in times of flood. —
The cattle were turned up a kloof, to the east of an elevated
bare hill, on which the wagon stood ; this being considered
best for shelter, food, and protection from lions, which some-
times prowled to the westward, and might rob us of an ox or
a horse. In the evening, there was a violent wind, bringing
clouds of dust; it preceded vivid lightning, loud thunder, and
heavy rain. After the storm was past, I read a Dutch hymn,
on the Day of Judgment, to the people, and made a few
comments on our preservation during the storm, the uncer-
tainty of human life, and the testimony borne by the works
of God to his power and goodness.
14th. By the side of the river, there was an arborescent
bush, allied to Rhamnus, with shining leaves and hooked
prickles ; it is common also in Caffraria, and in various parts
of the Colony. This, with the Gariepine Willow, and a large
trifoliate Rhus, are the principal trees on the banks of this
great drain of Southern Africa. Among the stones of the
river, there are a few fossil Madrepores. The limestone of
Griqua Town has been said to contain fossils of this tribe,
but they are only pipe-like incrustations, which have sur-
rounded the bases of Reeds, which have grown in the course
of the water that formerly flowed from the spring : it in-
crusted not only the Reeds, Phragmites communis, but also a
Chara, both of which were still growing in the watery places
near the incrustations. In sandy places all over this part of
Africa, and especially on the banks of this river, there are two
species of Tribulus ; one with blossoms as large as a shiUing,
of a lively, pale yellow. There was more thunder and rain
in the course of the day. Our guide returned at noon, from
Brakke Fontein, where the dried-up pools had been replenished
by the recent rain. The way had been so little tracked that
it was difficult to find, and the country was extremely rough
with loose stones ; it was also very poor, consisting of sandy
flats with little grass, and a thin sprinkling of bushy plants,
between low flat-topped hills of basalt, on the upper lime-
stone. We outspanned by a clump of Doornbooms that sup-
plied us with plenty of fuel for fires, by which to dry our
wet clothes. While reading an Ostrich set up its lion-like
1839.] BUSHMAN COUNTRY. 475
cry, and a Hyena howled near the wagon ; the latter also dis-
turbed us several times in the early part of the night, but
did us no injury.
15th. The oxen travelled far for grass. They scent it at a
great distance when it is to windward, and follow one another
in a line to the place, so that when their track or "spoor"
is found, it is beaten like a footpath. In the middle of the
forenoon, we came to a pool of water with grass around it ;
here we stopped an hour to let the cattle drink and feed. At
a short distance, there was another pool recently filled by the
rain. We next reached the Orange River, at a place where
there were the remains of old cattle-kraals, but no people.
The willows were fine on the river's bank, and there was
fresh grass under them. Plenty of Guineafowl were running
about among the bushes. At this place, a red Poppy, with
stout hairs on the stem, Papaver aculeatum, and a Horsetail
Weed, Equisetum elongatum, were growing. In the evening
we outspanned on an elevated sandy place, where there was
plenty of grass and a few scattered little trees of the grey-
leaved Acacia, the foliage of which resembles some species
of fern, of the genus Glichenia.
16th. We came at a narrow kloof, at the end of which
the river, which is here the Zwarte Rivier, ran in a deep fis-
sure ; it was much swollen, but was nevertheless 20 feet be-
low the top of the rocks, which it overflows in great floods,
spreading itself in a wide, sandy bed. The wagon stopped a
mile up the kloof, where there were water and young reeds.
The cattle and horses browsed freely on the reeds and on
some young grass, from which it was impracticable to keep
the loose ones ; in consequence, in ascending a hill, one of
them fell down and died before any help could be aiforded.
It is a rare thing for cattle to die from repletion in this part of
Southern Africa, except when the grass springs rapidly after
rain. The grass in this part of the country is in patches, and
generally in separate tufts ; but where it is unbrowsed, tra-
velling cattle can sometimes get a good supply. The animals
seen to-day were a Roodekat, or Caracal, a Springbok, some
Hares, and Ostriches, and two species of Bustard. The Cara-
cal, Felis Caracal, is probably the Lynx of the ancients ; it is
476 DUWVENAARS FONTEIN. [lOth mO.
considerably larger than a Domestic Cat ; its general colour
is reddish brown, but its ears are dark, and they are tipped
with a pencil of black hairs ; it climbs trees with facility, and
is regarded as a fierce animal.
Among the species of Otis, Bustard, met with in South
Africa, are O. Coleii, the Black-throated Paauw ; O. ruficollis,
the Red-necked Paauw; O. ruficrista, the Red-crested Paauw;
O. Arabs, the Kuif Paauw ; O. Afer, the Black Korhaan ;
O. Afroides, the Grey Korhaan; 0. torquata, the Brown Kor-
haan ; O. Vigorsii, the Karroo Korhaan ; and 0. Veroxii, the
Blue-bellied Korhaan.
I7th. We re-entered the Colony at Duwvenaars Fontein,
Pushers Fountain, the property of Michael Van" Nieuwkerk,
an active Fieldcornet, who had several sons married and set-
tled here. They were extensive sheep-farmers, and had chiefly
Bushmen attendants, who appeared to live in as poor a man-
ner as could well be conceived, to be connected with civilized
life. The meanest huts and clothing, with the ofFal of sheep
and the like, for food, if it be regularly supplied, is an advance
upon their accommodation and food, as they live in the wilds
of the country, and I do not suppose they considered them-
selves unkindly treated here. M. A^an Nieuwkerk was absent
when we arrived, but he returned in the afternoon ; he had
been to Colesberg, attending the first Circuit Court that was
held there. A Dutch trader from Beaufort was tried at it,
whom Nieuwkerk had pursued over the Frontier, and appre-
hended, for beating a Hottentot on the feet, and leaving him
in such a state, as that he was not only nearly perishing from
hunger, but that he lost both his feet. When the merciless
man learned that the Hottentot's life was in danger, he was
afraid of a prosecution for murder ; he therefore took the
sufferer over the river, that he might not die in the Colony.
The man was sentenced to six months' imprisonment, and a
fine of £lO for maltreating one of the Queen^s subjects.
Thus the power of British law is extending itself for the pro-
tection of the oppressed, and it certainly has effected a con-
sideralile change since the time when Dr. Vanderkemp and
James Read began their christian labours near Algoa Bay ;
when a neighbouring Boor shot a Hottentot who was on his
1839.] CAPE COLONY. 477
way to join them, took possession of his horse, and escaped
with impunity. The families here received a few tracts thank-
fully, but way did not open for any other religious service,
except in conversation.
While we were at this place, a herd of Springboks at-
tempted to cross the river from the opposite side, to the
growing corn on this. They were turned back by the firing
of guns, the shouting of men, and the barking of dogs. Had
they got upon the corn, they would quickly have consumed
it. The bank of the Zwarte Rivier is steep on this side. It
is clothed with Willows, Acacias, and other trees and shrubs.
Crinum riparium, a beautiful plant of the Amaryllis tribe was
sparingly in flower among them : it had on each stem, about
a dozen, large, bell-shaped blossoms, of a purplish-red co-
lour, with long tubes. A Sutherlandia was also growing here ;
it was more slender in all its parts, and paler in its blos-
soms than S. frutescens, the Scarlet Bladder-senna of the
vicinity of Cape Town.
18th. Having replenished our stock of provisions, we again
set forward, and passing round the end of a basaltic hill, near
the river, at Doorbult, Through Hummock, we took a south-
erly course to the habitation of a young Boor, with a healthy
wife and rising family. A few tracts were here received thank-
fully, and we were supplied gratuitously with milk and butter.
These people were making some improvements ; their ser-
vants were Bushmen, except a Bechuana and an Irishman.
The last was busy perforating the limestone rock, out of
which a small spring issued, that watered the garden. If
more water could be obtained, it was intended to extend cul-
tivation, the river being distant, and too low for its waters
to be used for irrigation, without machinery. After travelling
till nine o^ clock, we came upon an extensive, saline flat, of
great extent, which was destitute of vegetation, except a few
scattered Mesembryanthemums, Lyciums and other plants of
similar character. The cattle and horses were fastened to
the wagon, to prevent their vainly wasting their strength by
searching for food in this inhospitable region.
19th. A ride of about two hours and a half, brought us
to Sand Fountain. Here there were a few Bushmen's huts,
478 LEEUW FONTEIN. [lOth mO.
and the remains of two mud houses, at a little spring issuing
from under the upper limestone. The land was studded with
small bushes, and about the foot of some contiguous, low,
basaltic hills, there was a little grass. Some milk was obtained
of the Bushmen, for tobacco, of which they are extremely-
fond. The day was so hot, as to prevent our travelling till
toward evening, when three hours brought us to Leeuw Fon-
tein. Lion fountain, where we outspanned by moonlight, near
to the house of a Boor. This place is on the upper lime-
stone ; we did not see the under limestone after leaving Reads
Drift. The water here was accumulated in two dams, to irri-
gate a few acres of corn-land, on which a fine crop was ready
to shoot into ear.
20th. We had an early visit from Philipus de Prie, a per-
son of French extraction, and the proprietor of the place
where we had taken the liberty of stationing our wagon : he
expressed approbation at our having done so, and kindly in-
vited us to his house. At ten o'clock we joined the family,
who were assembled for devotional purposes. We found an
openness to testify among them to the mercy of God in
Christ Jesus, and to the gift of the Holy Spirit through him.
We joined them again in the evening, and spoke to them on
the heathen state of our European forefathers, when the Gos-
pel was first preached among them ; we also called their
attention to the heathen state of their neighbours, the natives
of this country, and to the effects of the Gospel among them,
and showed, that those who received the grace of God in this
day, were brought into reconciliation with him, through Jesus
Christ, and were made brothers in Christ to all true believers,
of whatsoever nation or colour. This kind of doctrine we had
often to preach in this country, where there was a disposition
to doubt the claims of the coloured races to christian fellow-
ship, and such an ignorance of ecclesiastical history, as to
render proofs of a very decisive character necessary, to pro-
duce the conviction, that White Men were not from the ear-
liest ages. Christians, and the chosen people of God. There
seemed an ear open to hear in this family ; but generally,
there is, in this country, a self-complacency, connected
with the idea of being Christians ; and the people seem little
1839.] CAPE COLONY. 479
to suspect that heathenism often lurks practically under this
covering.
21st. We proceeded toWolve Kop, JVoIf Head, where, on
the 19th, the young men of De Prie's family, and some neigh-
bours, were hunting lions, which had killed an ox and a horse,
within a few days. They succeeded in killing two lions and a
lioness ; several others escaped. One of the Hottentots was
thrown down by a lion, and it was shot whilst upon the man.
After we had left this place one of our Bechuanas said he saw
the foot-prints of a lion near some water ; the driver said, he
also saw them across the road, on the way to Bokke Kraal, a
place a little beyond which, we rested for the night, but nei-
ther my companion nor myself ever either heard the voice of
a lion, or saw the print of the foot of one, in the course of our
whole journey. — After considering the subject, it was con-
cluded to let the cattle remain loose, lest if a lion should come
among them, they should damage the wagon. On the 20th,
the thermometer was 96° in the wagon, and 99° in the shade
outside, with a strong northerly wind ; to-day the wind was
southerly and very piercing : the thermometer at noon was 64°.
We felt the cold keenly, as did also the cattle, which got among
the bushes for shelter. — The Beetles, which propel balls of
dung, were exceedingly numerous here. Some which we no-
ticed this morning, rolled masses twenty yards, along the sandy
ground, and then buried them by working the sand from be-
neath them ; they came in all directions for their treasure,
speedily detaching portions, which when rolled were about an
inch in diameter. For these they sometimes fought, casting
one another off with great fury. Two often joined at rolling
one piece, resting upon it alternately when tired, so as for one
to act as a counterpoise in assisting the other, which pushed
it backward. Whether these balls are used for food, or to
deposit eggs in, I did not ascertain, as both they and their
rollers were eventually buried out of my sight.
22nd. The thermometer fell below the freezing point in the
night. The cattle were driven by the piercing wind, to seek
shelter in an adjacent bay in the hills, where they were aU safe
in the morning. No Lions or other beasts of prey were per-
mitted to disturb our slumbers ; through the overruling of the
48Q woLVE KOP. [10th mo.
Most High, they were effectually restrained by the change in
the weather ; they will not move in sudden cold unless pressed
by hunger. Soon after sunrise, seven Vultures soared away from
an adjacent eminence, as if to see for the remains of what lions
might have left in the adjoining plain. — The following anec-
dote, related to us at Griqua Town, may serve to illustrate
the association of Uons and vultures. A Bushman, residing
near the Orange River, in the direction of Hardcastle Kloof,
was hunting, with some of his companions ; but observing a
considerable number of vultures soaring in the air, he con-
cluded that some animal had been accidentally killed, of which
he might possibly obtain a share ; he therefore left his com-
panions and repaired to the spot, where he found a hartebeest
lying, off which he drove a number of these birds. On doing
this, a lion, which he supposed had killed the hartebeest, and
satisfied its hunger, came from behind a neighbouring bush,
and growled at him. Petrified with fear, the Bushman stood
perfectly still. The hon walked round him, so close as to
brush him with its tail, uttering at the same time a low growl ;
it then went to a short distance and sat down, looking at the
Bushman, who kept his eye upon it, and drew back a few
paces ; but when he drew back, the lion advanced ; he there-
fore stood quite still, till the lion retired a little, and lay down.
The Bushman seized the opportunity, picked up a few straws
of dry grass, and began to try to strike a light ; but as soon
as the lion heard the tapping of the flint and steel, he rose
again and walked around the Bushman, brushing him as be-
fore : again the Bushman was still, and again the lion retired.
The Bushman once more plied his flint and steel, and again
the lion advanced from his retreat; at this moment, the
Bushman succeeded in obtaining a light, but such was his
terror, that, forgetting himself, he continued blowing at it,
till it scorched his face. The lion made a stand when he saw
the flame ; and as this increased, when the burning grass was
dropped into a dry bush, the lion fled. The Bushman, who
had been thus detained from noon to sunset, lost no time,
when the lion was sufi&ciently far gone, in also making his re-
treat: he said he thought he never ran so fast before; and when
he reached his companions, he was pale and sick with fright.
1839.] CAPE COLONY. 481
Our road now wound among flat-topped, basaltic hills, in-
terspersed with others, of a conical form, and separated by-
sandy plains of a limited extent: these were generally clothed
with low, bushy Mesembry an themums and other under- shrubs,
and there was a little grass about the foot of the hills. We
travelled about seven hours to Modder Fontein, Mud Foun-
tain, where one family was residing. A few miles further,
ascending by a narrow pass, we came upon an open elevated
country, from which there was a fine view of the surrounding
mountains, including the Sneeuwbergen, Snow Mountains, in
the distance. On descending a little, the shelter of a low hill
was taken for protection from a cutting blast, which I faced
to-day in a suit of duffle; sometimes with the addition of a kar-
ross, walking at the same time, to keep up warmth. Captain
Harris mentions the thermometer falling to 18° in winter, in
this part of the country, which is called the Winter Veld.
23rd. A Hyena disturbed the horses in the night; they had
been left to browse without being knee-haltered, and they gal-
loped ofi", pursued by the ravenous beast ; Abraham followed
and fired a shot, which drove off the hyena ; the horses then
returned to near the wagon. Near to this place was the tem-
porary station of a Vee Boor, or Cattle-farmer, with a large
flock of sheep, and a considerable herd of cattle. This class
of men travel from place to place, with their flocks and herds,
as the pasturage is consumed, or the water fails ; they dwell
in wagons, with the addition of tents or temporary huts. Two
wagons and a hut were occupied by this party. A little
further to the right of our road, there was a ruined farm-
house, and close to it, a mat hut, in which some people who
were feeding a few goats, were living. There was rain-water
in pools on the adjacent plain, at the opposite side of which,
we came at Wash Banks, where the houses were all empty.
The ^^ forsaking in the midst of this land" had been the
efliect of drought, and of a disposition to emigrate, from the
common causes operating in the colony. Further on, we
passed two huts, both of which were empty, notwithstanding
one of them had a door of quagga-skin, and from a distance
we saw a man leave it. Descending through a pass in the
basaltic hills, we arrived at Seven Fountains where three
H H
482 BONTEBOK KRAAL. [10th mO.
families were residing. The master of one of them said they
had suffered greatly from drought, but now were replenished
with water, his garden was revived, and the promise of a good
crop of fruit cheered them. Thirteen deaths had occurred
here from measles, among the white population and their
coloured servants. When we left this place, a present of
salted meat was sent after us, from one of the famihes who
had received a few tracts. We outspanned in the evening
at a deserted place named Leeuwin Fontein, Lioness Foun-
tain. As we approached it, we descended into a wide and
far extended vale, which was occupied by a herd of Spring-
boks, spread in countless thousands, as far as the eye could
reach. The gay, yellow Rhigozum still decorated some of
the hills ; others were covered with a purple Mesembryan-
themum ; several species of the last genus were now in
blossom. A translucent-leaved plant of the Aloe tribe was
in flower in the crevices of a basaltic hill : its leaves were
buried to the tops in the earth. Stapelia hirsuta bearing large,
hairy, starfish-like flowers abounded in the crevices of rocks
in this part of the country. The thermometer was 64° at noon.
24th. We journeyed by Bad Fontein, Bath Fountain,
where a Hottentot family were in charge ; we also passed an
empty house and stopped near a basaltic hill, on which I saw
two Horned Owls, Bubo capensis. Having taken a track a
little more to the west than was designed, we came, toward
evening, to Jagers Fontein, Hunters Fountain, where we had
some conversation with a Boor and his family, and left a few
tracts ; we then went forward to a pass among basaltic hills,
where, finding water, we rested for the night.
25th. About noon we reached Bontebok Kraal, where
was an empty house. We passed some Dutch people in a
wagon, having a sick child; they afterwards sent an Irishman,
who accompanied them, to request me to return, the child be-
ing worse, and they were afraid it was dying. It had taken a
severe cold, and had symptoms of croup. Like many others
of the children of the Boors, it was excessively fat, having
been greatly over-fed. After administering some suitable med-
icine, and counselling the parents against the mistaken notion,
that giving the children great quantities of food is for their
1839.] CAPE COLONY. 483
advantage, I followed my party. After the sun set, 1 could
scarcely keep warm by walking. The wagon was to have
stopped at a deserted place called Monger Fontein, Hunger
Fountain; but being discouraged by the poor prospect in re-
gard to food for the cattle, they had gone forward, as I could
perceive by the wheel-tracks, I therefore pursued them across
a sterile plain, and found them outspanned among some
bushes, on a rocky hillock, at a still more miserable place,
called Kaal Plaats, Bare Place, whither the other family soon
followed, being desirous to be near us, if the child should be
worse. They presented us with a Springbok which one of
their people had killed ; it was very acceptable, our meat
being nearly consumed.
26th. Although Kaal Plaats was a very poor place, there
was a little rivulet, by which a few acres of land were watered ;
and these were sown with corn. Both our cattle and those of
the other wagon, finding no other food, strayed about till
they found out the corn; happily, the dogs barked, and
the Boor residing on the spot, having seen the light of the
fires, had put his people on the alert ; they therefore salUed
forth at the barking of the dogs, captured the intruders, and
drove them into a cattle-kraal. The owner of the land was
moderate in his complaints of trespass, little actual damage
having taken place ; a small present to his wife, a pleasant,
motherly-looking woman, and to his grandchildren, brought
all to a good understanding, and we were kindly invited to
partake of their " morgen maal,^' morning meal, which had
more of the character of dinner than of breakfast. The
Dutch have a similar meal about eight in the evening, and
these are the only times they eat, in the country ; the first
meal being about ten or eleven o'clock. A cup of coffee is
generally taken early in the morning, and frequently another,
or a cup of tea, at uncertain intervals, in the course of the
day ; in the remoter places it is often taken without milk or
sugar ; it is common to offer this beverage to strangers,
rather than wine or strong drink. Some travellers find fault
with the quantity of sheep-tail fat used in cooking by the
Boors; but after our long journeying, this formed no obstacle
with us. Our horses strayed several miles back in search
H H 2
484 KRYGERS FONTEIN. [10th mO.
of grass and shelter. — We proceeded to Kraanvogel Valei,
Crane-fowl Valley, where there were pools of water, with
Moor-hens upon them. The Blue Crane, Anthropoides
Stanley anus ? is an elegant bird, larger than the Common
Heron: it abounds in this part of Africa, and is often seen in
groups, walking among the scanty herbage in search of food.
In the afternoon we proceeded to near Paard Fontein, Horse
Fountain, and stationed the wagon where some tall rushes, near
a pool, afforded shelter for the men; the cattle were driven to
an adjacent mountain, named Tafel Berg, Table Mountain, for
forage and protection from the cold southerly wind. Here
some of our party killed a Lynx, and there were traces of Otters.
27th. This being First-day we remained near Paard Fon-
tein. The seclusion of such a situation is sometimes agree-
able ; but upon the whole. First-day was more completely
a day of rest to myself, when in a town ; and to such of
our servants as were disposed to make a profitable use of
the day, a town or a Missionary Station was a more favour-
able place. The manner in which, when in the country, those
who could not read often slept away such portions of the
time as were not necessarily occupied otherwise, was illus-
trative of the declaration, that " for the soul to be without
knowledge is not good." I was never before so much im-
pressed with the great privilege of being able to read as while
on this journey, and in close association with two individuals
who could not read, and whose fatiguing occupations and
prejudices disinclined them from learning. Our attendants
from the Kuruman were very diligent with their books.
28th. A short ride brought us to Krygers Fontein, Warriors
Fountain. This establishment, like those of most other Boors
in this part of the country, consisted of a rude farm-house of
one story, thinly furnished, a few smaller habitations, occu-
pied by coloured servants, kraals or folds for cattle, along
the tops of the walls of which, cakes of dung were arranged
to dry for fuel, and a garden and a small piece of corn-land,
irrigated from a spring, the water of which soon sunk again
into the ground. These places are generally surrounded by
a wilderness of scattered bushes, mid-leg high, with a little
grass, in tufts, browsed by sheep and larger cattle, and by
1839.] CAPE COLONY. 485
thousands of Springboks. We now entered among the liills
of the Sneeuwbergen, Snow Mountains, by an easy pass, and
came to Dasjes Fontein, Coneys Fountain, where we purchased
milk for 7d. a gallon, and butter for 9d. a pound^ of a civil
Boor who could speak a little English. In the evening we
outspanned at the foot of an isolated, basaltic hill and a more
continuous cliff, in a winding valley, where we found water
and a little grass. Here a few. Red Hares were obtained
among the rocks ; among which there were some beautiful
flowers, of a rosy salmon colour, resembling Toad-flax, with a
double spur. — The Red Hare or Roode Haas, Lepus rupestris,
is smaller than the Common Hare, and it has white flesh ;
the Rock Hare or Rheebok Haas, Lepus saxatilis, is a larger
species, with ears upward of six inches long ; the Cape Hare
or Vlaakte Haas, Lepus capensis is a smaller species inhabit-
ing the open country ; the other two are found in rocky or
mountainous situations.
29th. We pursued our journey through a series of valleys,
supporting considerable herds of cattle, and passed two
farms, with strips of land, irrigated from adjacent kloofs. Our
resting-place this evening was at Klip Fontein, Rock Fountain,
near Zuur Plaats, Sour Place. Among the rocks, the pretty
Cyrtanthus rupestris was in flower ; it has tubular, crimson
blossoms.
30th. We travelled over a country of considerable eleva-
tion; the views were very grand, the country being the most
mountainous of any we visited. The Compass Berg, the
most elevated portion, is said to be about 10,000 feet above
the level of the sea. We outspanned at a place called the
Poortje, Little Pass, near the house of a Field-cornet, of whom
we purchased a sheep for 7s. 6d. The family of this man like
that of many of the Boors of South Africa, was very large.
31st. I ascended one of the numerous, flat-topped moun-
tains of basalt and clayslate, with which the Sneeuwberg dis-
trict abounds. Flowers and grass were interspersed among
the large stones, on its most elevated portions. Among the
former there was Myosotis sylvatica, the same species as
the most delicate English Forget-me-not; it did not fail
to excite many pleasant recollections ; it was growing in
H H 3
486 GRAAFF REINET. [11th mO.
association with Streptocarpus Rexii. Within the last day's
travel, the bushes had become larger, and on descending the
Sneeuwbergen, at Oudberg, Old Mountain, by a long, inclined
plane, cut in the side of a valley, vegetation assumed an as-
pect more like what it presents in the middle and eastern
parts of the Colony. We outspanned in the evening near to
GraafF Reinet, having been favoured within the last two
months, to travel in safety over nearly 800 miles of our ox-
wagon journey.
11th mo. 1st. We rode on horseback, through a narrow
pass into Graaff Reinet, and made our way to the house of
Andrew and Mary Murray, to whom we had a letter of intro-
duction, and whose praise is in all the churches of South
Africa, on account of their care for aU labourers in the Gos-
pel ; and from whom we received a most cordial welcome.
Andrew Murray is the minister of the Reformed Dutch Church
at this place. Our wagon was brought into the town, and the
oxen were sent under charge of Abraham and Motingoe, to
Matjes Fontein, Rush Fountain, ten miles distant, grass being
more abundant there than nearer the town. — Graaff Reinet
had at this time a population of about 3,000 persons ; the dis-
trict contained about 9,000 persons; its extent is about 10,000
square miles. There is at this place a Missionary Society,
acting in conjunction with the London Missionary Society,
and having under its instruction, a considerable number of
Hottentots, freed-slaves, and other people of colour. These
were under the instruction of Albert Van Lingen, and they
were said to read better than many of the white inhabitants of
the same rank.
Graaff Reinet is embosomed among argillaceous mountains
some of which may be 1,500 feet above the plain; their
slopes, some of which are bushy, were now verdant to the
top. Several interrupted lines of cliffs intersect them at va-
rious elevations ; and near the base, the shale has slipped, in
several places, so as to form bare steeps. The town stands
upon a crescent-shaped flat, bordered by the Zoondag, or
Sundays River, in which there was now but little water. The
streets cross at right angles, and are bordered with Lemon-
trees ; the intervening squares are filled up with vineyards and
1839.] CAPE COLONY. 487
gardens, having hedges of Lemon, Pomegranate, and Quince,
and being watered from a copious spring in the neighbour-
hood, by means of ditches. The gardens are stocked with
Orange, Pear, Apricot, and Peach trees ; the houses, which
stand separately, are built in Dutch style, and are white-
washed ; they have Oleanders and Melias, or other ornamental
trees in front. The longest street is about an English
mile in length. The place of worship belonging to the Re-
formed Dutch Church, has a lofty tower and a neat spire.
The whole place, at this season of the year, presented a very
attractive appearance. The blossoms of the Oleander and the
Pomegranate were very beautiful, and the air was perfumed
by the flowers of the Vine. The place, nevertheless, is not
accounted very healthy in summer ; being so much inclosed
by hills, the heat is great, and miasmata may probably ascend
from so large a surface of irrigated land.
2nd. In the evening, we had a meeting in the Mission-
chapel, with the coloured people and a few Dutch, whom I ad-
dressed in English, which A. Murray interpreted, as it seemed
doubtful whether they woidd understand my broken Dutch,
not being accustomed to a variety of preachers.
3rd. The White-people and the Coloured met together
for public worship, but they sat apart. The congregation was
large. In the afternoon, a school was held in the Government
schoolroom by A. Murray and two assistants. This place was
fitted up on the plan of the British and Foreign School Society,
but it was without a teacher for the week-day school. The
exercises were scriptural and catechetical, and the attendance
was considerable for a wet day. My companion addressed the
juvenile company, at the conclusion of the school, much to
my satisfaction. At three o'clock, a small English congrega-
tion, to which A. Murray usually preached, assembled in the
public place of worship ; the opportunity was given over to
us, and I had much close labour with them. In point of
order and piety, they rank below the Dutch inhabitants. In
the evening, a considerable company of white and coloured
persons assembled in the chapel ; way was again made for us
to address them, and we were strengthened to set forth the
advantages of early dedication to the Lord.
488 GRAAFF REINKT. [llth mO.
4th. In the evening, a meeting was held in the Mission-
chapel, in which we had an opportunity of informing a nume-
rous assembly respecting the progress of the Gospel among
the coloured population of Southern Africa, and their advance-
ment in civilization. Meetings of this kind are calculated to
weaken the decHning prejudices of the colonists. In the
course of the meeting, a few observations were made on tem-
perance, which is a subject the people here were not prepared
to come together upon, most of them not only being engaged
in making wine, but also in making brandy.
5th. We called on W. C. Van Ryneveld, the Civil Com-
missioner, and visited the Jail. It was one of the poorest
buildings in the place ; but compared with many others in
the Colony, it was commodious. On entering, there was a
room for convicts, of whom there were about thirty, working
in irons on the roads, and in a second room, two Bushmen
were confined, under sentence of death, for murder. The pas-
sage at the first angle, opened to an inner yard, where eigh-
teen persons were suffering under sentences for various, short
periods ; they wore handcuffs passed on short bars, and slept
in two rooms, having accommodation for forty prisoners.
The prison was regularly visited by A. Van Lingen, under
whose instruction some of the prisoners were thought to have
profited, especially the younger of the two Bushmen.
6th. In company with A. and M. Murray and some other
persons, we dined with W. C. Van Ryneveld and his family,
at the Drosdy House. Conversation happened to turn upon
Lions, which are not now so numerous in this neighbourhood
as formerly, but both our host and his son had been engaged
at various times in hunting them,. W. C. Van Ryneveld
assured us, that on one occasion, when out with a party of
Boors, they came upon seventeen Lions, out of which num-
ber they killed five ; but not before one had brought a Hot-
tentot to the ground, and mangled his leg. The idea, that
Lions and Eagles are solitary animals, is founded in error.
Three species of Eagle occur in South Africa, Aquila coro-
nata, the Crowned Eagle, A. bellicosa, the Chok, and A. vul-
turina, the Berghaan ; there are also several other birds of
nearly allied genera, and many of the smaller Hawks,
1839.] CAPE COLONY. 489
7th. We parted from Andrew and Mary Murray and their
family, and proceeded a few miles on the way toward Beau-
fort, crossing the Sundays River three times, and a smaller
stream once; both were bordered with Doombooms, and
flowed over argillaceous beds, through Karroo country, covered
with Mesembrj^anthemums, which were now displaying a
profusion of gay flowers, of white, yellow, red and pink of
various shades. A small, white Dianthus, Pink, and a large
Opuntia, were growing among some limestone rocks, where
we stopped ; the latter grows also on the basalt. This plant
is represented in the etching at page 226 ; it is common
on the Karroo, where it sometimes stands solitarily, 10 feet
high ; it occurs from Cradock to half-way between Graaff
Reinet and Beaufort, and keeps much to one parallel of lati-
tude ; it consists chiefly of large, oblong joints, and has flowers
of orange or yellow resembling roses. — The water in many
places in this neighbourhood, is strongly impregnated with
sulphate of Soda or Glauber Salt.
8th. We now entered upon the Great Karroo, by a road
lying under the Camdeboo mountains, which cannot be tra-
velled in dry weather, on account of the scarcity of water.
We passed over some hills, clothed with strong bushes, and
at night, had to dig for water, in the bed of a periodical river.
9th. While the herdsman was bringing up the cattle from
under an adjacent mountain, I ascended to near its craggy
top. A Hyena, which probably was sick, or had caught
no prey last night, and was hungry, was crying among the
bushes till after eight o'clock this morning. In the course
of my ramble, I set up two Roode Rheeboks and a Long-
eared Hare, and saw a large Tortoise. The Roode Rheebok,
Redunca Lalandii, is about 2\ feet high at the shoulder, and
5 feet in length ; its horns are about 6 inches long, near to
each other, hooked forward at the tip, and having a few im-
perfect rings ; the body is yellowish brown, with a tinge of
purple; the female is without horns. This Antelope is com-
mon among the rocky hills of this part of Africa, in small
groups. Tortoises of various species, are also numerous ;
their colonial name is Skilpot, which is a corruption of
Schildpad, Shield-toad.
490 CAMDEBOO. [11th mo.
We traversed the margin of an extensive plain, passed
through a small wood of Doornbooms, and outspanned at
noon on the premises of a Boor on the Camdeboo River,
where the water was led out by a ditch so as to irrigate a
garden, a vineyard, and some corn-land. Three families
resided on this spot, to whom we gave a little Caffer-corn and
Maize, and a few Date-stones for seed. We distributed the
last and a few other seeds extensively, in the course of our
journey. The afternoon was hot, but we travelled to some
rain-pools in the bed of a mountain-torrent, among which
there were tall, bushy Doornbooms that proved a friendly
shelter from a cold south-east wind which sprang up in the
evening. Distant farms were seen scattered remotely in the
valleys among the mountains, and we met a few travellers.
Some Hottentots received portions of the residue of our
CafFer-corn meal with gladness. Now that our stock of
wheaten bread was renewed, CafFer-corn was not much
thought of, but it was very acceptable when other farinaceous
food was scarce. When in GraalF Reinet, we got some shoes
made of undressed leather, and sewed with slender thongs of
the same : these are called Vel Schoenen, Skin-shoes : they
are much used in this country, and are comfortable in dry
weather. A Hottentot will make himself a pair in a couple
of hours.
10th. We rested in the wilderness. A coloured traveller
came to the wagon to inquire if he could purchase some vic-
tuals ; this we regarded as a polite mode of begging. He
remained during one of our readings, and received a donation
of CafFer Corn meal. There were few animals on the Karroo,
except of the insect tribes. Innumerable caterpillars were
feeding on some of the species of Mesembryanthemum and
Atriplex ; they were very troublesome in crawling over every
thing that came in their way; Red-legged Hunting-spiders,
of bad name, with formidable forceps. Lion-ants, Butterflies,
Beetles, and Grasshoppers, were likewise met Mdth here.
In bushy places there were Doves, and smaller birds, and
in the open country Bustards and Blue Cranes.
11th. We travelled along the base of a range of cliff-
crested, picturesque mountains, and occasionally crossed low
1839.] CAPE COLONY. 49]
points, exhibiting traces of limestone, argillaceous sandstone,
and shivered argillaceous rock. We passed three farms at a
distance on the left ; and in an arid valley met with Gastronema
Smithice, with spiral leaves and from two to six bell-shaped,
lily-like, cream-coloured flowers. In the evening we out-
spanned at a place called Jouberts. Here some fine fields
of grain were irrigated from a rivulet, tributary to the Cam-
toos. For two previous years, this rivulet had been dry, and
water, to drink, had to be brought from a spring a mile and
a half distant. Many lions had been shot at this spring
when it was the only one flowing in the neighbourhood.
12th. We travelled over a miserable country; in some
places it was stony, in others sandy, and in others it had a
hard, clayey surface, glossy with some alkali, probably soda; in
many parts it yielded little but a few stunted, spinous Mes-
embryanthemums and Euphorbias ; among these, however, a
Tetagonia, an insect of the Cicada tribe, about an inch long,
kept up a rattling chorus. In two places, belts of Doorn-
boom and thorny Celastrus marked the course of rain-streams
from the mountains. In the evening, we reached another
such place, among some low hills, where were four encamp-
ments, of different branches, of three generations, of a family
of Vee Boors, named Pienaar, who were sojourning here with
their flocks and herds. The appearance of this family was
neat and respectable, and they seemed glad to receive a few
tracts and a word of christian counsel.
13th. The horses having strayed in search of pasturage
some of the people were out all day in search of them. In
returning to the wagon, they found the nest of an Ostrich,
with thirty-nine eggs, arranged in concentric circles, nine of
which they brought away, being as many as they could carry.
14th. At ten o'clock last night Colin Fraser, the pious
minister of the Reformed Dutch Church, at Beaufort, came
up, and outspanned his wagon near to ours : he was on his
way to Graaf Reinet, accompanied by his sister-in-law and
ten of their children. Our interview with him this morning
was very satisfactory, and he gave us letters of introduction
to facilitate our movements at Beaufort. — G. W. Walker
accompanied our driver to the Ostrich's nest, in the hope
492 STELLENBOSCH VALEI. [llth mO.
of bringing away the remainder of the eggs ; but the birds
having abandoned them on being discovered, the Jackals had
broken them. This they are said to effect by rolUng the
eo"gs one against another, or against stones : Hyenas also
destroy the eggs, when left at night by the old birds. Ostriches
are said to sit on their eggs constantly in this country, the
male and female by turns, except when the sun is hot, and
then they feed. The supernumerary eggs, which are placed
in the outside circles, form the food for the young birds
when first hatched. The shell of the Cape Ostrich has a
punctured, enamelled surface, while that of the Ostrich of the
north of Africa is smooth and of a plain white colour. — The
day was hot and windy. In the evening we halted at some
rain-pools in the bed of a rivulet, having passed a few Ostriches
and Springboks on the way.
15th. The heat of yesterday, which was attended by many
of those columns of dust which are raised by " the whirlwinds
of the south,^' was to-day followed by thunder and rain. We
travelled in the forenoon, to Stellenbosch Valei; where a
man on his way to Port Elizabeth, recognized our driver,
whose brother had been in the employment of this person in
Cape Town. This, to people living in populous countries
would seem a trifling circumstance, but it was one such as
rarely occurred in our journeyings in Africa; and from this
person J. Hayes received the first intelligence of his family
connexions, since leaving the Cape. — Heavy rain obliged us
to stop early in the afternoon, in a Doornboom wood on
a branch of the Karreeka; here we heard a remarkable
noise, resembling the stroke of something ponderous ; we had
noticed this at various places, to proceed from the direction
in which an Ostrich was seen.
16th. Lions are found along the Karreeka, but none dis-
turbed our cattle, which fed loose, during the night. I found
a solitary ostrich-egg, on an open plain; probably it had
been dropped by some bird which had had her nest dis-
turbed. With a little rice, it served our whole company for
dinner. These eggs are not inferior to those of the Common
Fowl ; they contain upwards of a quart each. In the after-
noon we saw vast herds of Springboks in a valley leading to
1839.] CAPE COLONY. 493
the Salt River, by the side of which we outspanned at a late
hour. At this place a Crassula, with connate leaves, abounded
on a rocky hill, on which there was also a plant allied to
Stapelia, with minutely spotted flowers, the size of a shilling,
fringed with trembling hairs, which were widest at the point
most distant from the flowers.
1 7th. We called upon the family residing here, and were
pleased to see in their house, an aged, coloured woman, treated
with considerate kindness ; our shaking hands with her did
not appear to be looked upon unpleasantly. It is so uncom-
mon for White people to shake hands with the Coloured, ex-
cept at missionary stations, that the Coloured often shrink
from accepting this token of kindness, seeming to think it
cannot be meant for them.
18th. We outspanned among thorns, by water in pools,
in the course of a periodical rain-torrent at Rhinosterkop,
Bhinocer OS-head. Here I had some conversation with a Boor
who was going to see after his cattle beyond Philippolis, and
was travelling in a wagon, with his seven motherless chil-
dren ; his ear seemed open to religious counsel. — Fossil bones
occur in some of the isolated hills on this part of the Karroo ;
some of them, at least, are those of the Hon and other extant
animals.
19th. Our journey continued to be over karroo country,
on a clayslate formation, but having little hills of limestone
and of basalt. The mountains of the Nieuwveld were now on
the right, and those of the Blydenberg were just visible on the
southern horizon. Belts of Doornboom marked the lines of
water-courses across the plain ; but most of them were dry,
notwithstanding some of them were deep. In the evening
we outspanned close to the town of Beaufort.
20th. Beaufort is a pretty little town, of about 600 in-
habitants, watered by two copious springs, which give its
gardens an extraordinary degree of fertility: it is situated
solitarily, upon the open karroo, but not far from the foot of
the Nieuwveld Mountains. The streets are bordered with
Mulberry, Pear, Melia, and Weeping-willow trees. No can-
teen exists in the place, the magistrates having refused to
grant licenses for the sale of spirituous liquors, on the
494 BEAUFORT. [11th mo.
application of the churchwardens, who petitioned against the
licenses being renewed. The district of Beaufort comprehends
about 20jOOO square miles, and 6,000 inhabitants, including
coloured people. The residences of the farmers, a few of
whom are English, are so remote, that their minister told us,
it would take him eighteen months to visit them from house
to house. — We became the guests of a pious, German widow,
named Sieberhagen, who with her family showed us much
kindness.
2 1 St. The hot weather having shrunk the wood-work of
our wagon, we put it into the hands of a workman, to have
the wheel-tires shortened and to undergo a complete repair.
22nd. In the evening, we had a meeting with the English
inhabitants. We were strengthened to set before them the
love and mercy of God in Christ, and the condemnation of
those who reject these, and choose the service of Satan through
sin.
23rd. In the evening, we had a meeting with about forty
Coloured People, formerly slaves ; much sense of the divine
overshadowing was granted, both as we sat in silence, and as
we spoke to them on the things which belong to eternal life.
The prejudices of some of the Dutch were still strong against
the instruction of this class, notwithstanding there was a
marked improvement among them since an evening-school
had been established for their benefit. The Coloured People
here, however, attended public worship along with the Whites.
A large number of Boors emigrated from the district of Beau-
fort to the Natal country ; they parted with their farms for a
mere trifle to leave the country.
24th. In the evening, we met a congregation in the place
of worship belonging to the Dutch Church ; some persons
seldom seen at a place of worship were present.
25th. We called upon the Civil Commissioner, to whom
we had a letter of introduction ; he went with us over the
prison. It was a badly ventilated place, and not very clean ;
but it was undergoing some improvements. In the lower
story, there were four cells and a larger room, with grated,
wooden doors. Thirteen prisoners were in the larger ward.
Only one of the cells was occupied ; they were larger than
1839.] CAPE COLONY. 495
is usual for solitary confinement. A room scarcely larger
than the cells, was used as a sleeping-place for about twenty
convicts, who worked upon the roads, in irons. Some larger
upper rooms were not very secure ; only one of them had
occupants.
In the evening, a temperance-meeting was held in the
Government Schoolroom. Abolishing canteens, and putting
a stop to the retailing of spirituous liquors generally, had been
attended with happy effects among the lower orders of so-
ciety, but many of the inhabitants were far from having
gone to the root of the matter, by themselves ceasing to use
that which they saw was a great evil in others. Many ab-
stained from spirits, and others rarely took wine, but few
practiced total abstinence from intoxicating liquors ; and not
a few, of influential example, continued to use both, greatly
to the prejudice of themselves, and of those by whom they
were surrounded.
27th. On inquiring of some traders, who had come from
Cape Town, what was the state of the Karroo, they answered,
that it was fine ; all blossoming. My heart rather sank at
the expression, for I concluded that the blossoming was that
of the Mesembryanthemums, which, though gay indeed to
look upon, I knew would afford nothing for our poor cattle.
Often afterwards I was ready to exclaim. If this be fine, what
can the Karroo be, when it is poor! If rain fall in the
Twelfth or First month, grass springs freely among the kar-
roo-bushes, but it speedily withers again, and unless it fall in
these months, there is little grass to be seen throughout the
year.
Beyond the boundary of the Colony, to the north of Beau-
fort, there are a considerable number of Caffers, who at a
former period, were in service within the Colony ; they are
reported to have assisted the Boors in defending themselves
against the Bushmen, whose women the Caffers have taken
for wives. They have been regarded by the Boors of this
district, as a protection against the depredations of the Bush-
men, who, doubtless, have at times committed great outrages
both upon the stock and lives of the Boors. But though
records of these exist, our information respecting the merits
496 BEAUFORT. [11th mo.
of the question between them and the Boors of the Frontier
is still very imperfect. We have no Bushman annals, to de-
tail the attacking of their kraals and the carrying off of the
women and children ; but from the number of people of the
Bushman nation in the service of the Boors of the frontier,
there seems ground to think that cases of this kind have not
been few. Making due allowance for thefts of cattle, com-
mitted wantonly, or under the pressure of occasional famine,
and for the cases of murder by wicked men, such as occur in
all communities, there still remains a great degree of proba-
bility, that most of the oiFences committed by the Bushmen,
were mere acts of retaliation, though, perhaps, not always
falling on the heads of the aggressors. Those who commit
provocations which return on their neighbours, whether Dutch
or English, are certainly blameable for the consequences; and
violent retaliations, like capital punishments, increase mur-
der. The dread of the result of detection, drives to this
desperate mode of destroying the power of crimination. — ^At
a subsequent period, a conversation took place between an
acquaintance of ours and an emigrant Boor, on the manner
in which persons of the latter class obtained Bushmen, be-
yond the Frontier, to herd their cattle ; the Boor said, they
went to the kraals of the Bushmen, and brought them away.
Our acquaintance inquired, how they managed, if the Bush-
men were unwilling to become their servants ; the Boor re-
plied, We give them a bullet!
CHAPTER XXIX.
Departure from Beaufort. — Launching into the Wilderness. — Periodical Rivers.
— Red Water. — Hottentot Shepherd. — Mirage. — Dogs and Hot Ground. —
Brandewyn Gat. — Natal Emigrant. — Nieuwveld Mountains. — Mint. — Julus.
— Baboons. — Monkey. — Destitution of Bread. — Brak Places. — Mountain
Farms. — Porcupines. — Computations of Distance. — Bushman's Fiddle. — Rhi-
noster Rivier. — Onder Roggeveld. — Resting Places. — Karroo Fish River. —
Crinum capense. — Teachable Hottentots. — Lang Fontein. — Emigrant Boors.
— Reverence for the Bible. — Spirit-drinking. — Rheumatic Fever. — Bread. —
Hantam. — Cultivated Land. — Rams Kop. — Brunsvigia toxicaria. — Pleasant
Interview. — Sandstone Country. — Rhinoceros Bush. — Treading out Corn. —
Willow. — Jackals. — Hand Mill. — Bokkeveld Mountains. — Descent of the Bok-
keveld. — Aloe arborescens. — Stink Fontein. — Dabby-tree. — Book of Revela-
tion. — Salt Water. — Granite Country. — Tafelberg. — Boors and Coloured Peo-
ple. — Twee Fonteins. — State of the Hottentots. — Barrow and Dr. Philip. —
Kamiesbergen. — Plants. — Horned Snake. — Fresh Water. — Arrival at Lily
Fountain. —
11th mo. 28th. Having exchanged eight of our tired oxen for
fresh ones, with Henry Rose, a person from whom we received
much kind attention, both here and in Cape Town, we left
Beaufort, and launched into the wilderness with feelings
much like those which attend embarking for a long voyage.
Our aim was to reach the Wesleyan Station of Lily Fountain
on the Kamiesberg Mountains, in Little Namaqualand, and
we did not fear arriving at this point, but we had no map on
which a road thither was laid down, and we could not find
any person who had travelled further in that direction, than
the boundary of the Beaufort District ; we therefore could
form no certain idea of the length of time the journey would
be likely to take, nor of what point to aim for on the way ;
but having learned that one of the Judges of the circuit
court had once come in that direction, into this district, from
Clan William, we concluded to make for that place. — In the
course of this day we travelled about six miles, and rested for
the night by the Stoltz Rivier, which was dry, excepting a few
I I
498 GREAT KARROO. [11th mO.
pools. The late rain had made vegetation fresher in this
part of Africa than it had been at this season of the year for
ten years past, but sufficient had not fallen to revive the
springs, which were very weak, where they had not failed.
29th. We were still travelling upon the Great Karroo.
At noon we stopped where there was red water, in the pools
of a watercourse, and in the evening, where there was water
remaining in a single place, in the bed of the Sand River, at
the foot of a low cliff, of shivered, purple, clay-slate, among
low, flat-topped ridges of clayey sandstone. — The earth here
being chiefly shale, or a sort of splintered slate, the surface-
water is soon swallowed up, so that few of the rivers flow more
than two or three days immediately after rain; but as they
form the drains from the mountains, a heavy thunder-shower
fills them, and they then rush as torrents. The water from
the red pools scarcely extracted the colouring matter of coffee;
we often drank it in a state in which it looked somewhat as
if it had been mixed with milk. — In the course of the day, we
met with an old Hottentot shepherd who had learned to read
in the " Bovenland," Upper Country, that is, toward the Cape;
the country we were now in is called the " Onder Veld," or
Lower Country. This man had, in the crown of his hat, along
with his spectacles, an old tract that was much worn, not-
withstanding it was protected by a sheep-skin cover. On
being presented with a Testament, a copy of Bunyan^s Pil-
grim's Progress, and a smaller tract, he remarked to our
herdsman, in reference to these treasures, that this was a
happy day to him. He seemed ahve to religious truth, and
was one of the encouraging evidences that the labours of the
early missionaries had not been altogether in vain, notwith-
standing the labourers might not see the fruit of their toil.
The off'er of a hand quickly dispersed his reserve; but he
said he did not venture to speak to white men travelling in
wagons, unless they first spoke to him. We obtained some
information from him respecting the road, and the next place
for water.
30th. The Mirage in this country often causes the moun-
tains to appear as if they were cut off" by the base, and raised
into the air. It also presents the appearance of water in the
1839.] CAPE COLONY. 499
most arid parts of the karroo. To-day we crossed the dry
beds of several rivulets ; and in one of them, the stones looked
as if they were standing out of water. Often as we had been
deceived by such appearances, we now made ourselves sure
of water, but on coming to the place, there was not a drop.
The illusion vanished and left us to feel more keenly the
thirst which the great heat had occasioned. The mirage is pro-
bably occasioned by the contact of two strata of air of differ-
ent degrees of density : the surface of the lower stratum may,
in some measure reflect light in a similar manner to that in
which water reflects it, when in contact with air. The heat now
became so great in the middle of the day, that the dogs, in
trying to shelter themselves, would often lie down under such
bushes as they could find ; but these were generally too small
to defend them effectually from the scorching sun. After
the wagon had passed to some distance, the poor animals
would howl through fear of setting their feet upon the heated
ground ; but at length they would spring up and gallop to a
bush or stone beyond the wagon, under which they would
again lie down. — After passing a deserted house we came at
a bushy valley, in which there was a beautiful spring of clear
water, under a cliff of purple, shivered slate, surmounted by
clayey sandstone, and resting on firm argillaceous rock. The
water flowed a few hundred paces, filled some rocky pools,
and then sunk again into the earth. The cattle and horses
enjoyed the freshness of this clear spring, and the latter
browsed greedily upon a short Bullrush, Eleocharis, which
clothed the moistened earth, in the bed of the river, with
a lovely green, a colour rarely occurring in the dreary Kar-
roo. Near this place was a deserted house with cattle
kraals, and a Bushman's hut. These had probably been
left in the time of drought, from the failure of pasture or
water. Aquatic plants were growing here. Some of these,
particularly a species of Aponogeton, spring up quickly on
rain filling a pool. In the afternoon we entered a kloof
called Brandewyn Gat, Brandy Opening^ in the Nieuwveld
Bergen, New Field Mountains, which we here commenced
ascending. We spoke to a stout but infirm couple, dwelling
in this opening. The good woman was disposed to invite us
I I 2
500 NIEUWVELD BERGEN [12th HIO.
to remain over the morrow, but her husband pleaded the
feebleness of their fountain, and advised our proceeding to
another place, three hours further. It was however too late
to take his advice ; we did not admire travelling on dangerous
roads, in the dark; we therefore halted near the residence
of one of their sons, who also dwelt by a weak fountain,
but whom we found disposed to be friendly. This family had
been to Port Natal, where they remained nearly a year. All
the relatives of the wife were slain in the contests with Din-
gaan, and their cattle were exchanged for necessaries, so that
the man said, he saw that if they remained, they should soon
have nothing left. Added to this, every man there did that
which was right in his own eyes, and this was often wrong
in those of his neighbour. Laws were promulgated, but
there was no power to carry them into operation; he therefore
concluded to return, though impoverished, rather than remain,
like many others, till he had not the power of returning.
12th mo. 1st. We read a chapter to the family at this
place, and made a few comments on the nature of true reli-
gion. In the afternoon we ascended a hill " to view the
land^' over which we were about to travel.
2nd. The weather was showery, but we proceeded a little
way for the sake of better provender for the cattle. The
heads of the linch-pins of a Cape wagon are made large,
to prevent dirt from falling upon the axles of the wheels :
to-day, a bush caught one of the linch-pins, and took it out
of one of the fore-axles, and it was not missed till the wheel
came off. The axle landed on a bank, and we escaped up-
setting ; for this preservation we felt thankful to Him who
marks all our ways, and without whose knowledge not a spar-
row falls. — Our route now lay in a north-westerly direction,
winding among the mountains, sometimes making consider-
able ascents and descents. We stopped at the foot of a
cliff, where there was a feeble spring, in which there was a
Crab, notwithstanding the place was so choked with mud as
not to afford sufficient water for ourselves and our cattle, till it
was cleared out by means of spades. Near this place, we passed
a large family of Bushmen, some of whom were drying a spe-
cies of Mint, Mentha, for tea.
1839.] CAPE COLONY. 501
3rd. We came upon the top of the Nieuwveld, where
there was plenty of rain-water in shallow pools. The views
among the mountains in the direction in which we had come,
were fine. The country was still Karroo. In some places,
countless thousands of a species of Julus were crawling on
the sterile ground and among the stunted bushes. We out-
spanned after sunset under the Groene Berg, Green Mountain^
among the rocks of which Baboons were numerous, and very
noisy. The Baboon of this country, which I have noticed un-
der the name of Cynocephalus ursinus, is probably identical
with C. porcarius ; the Common Monkey of South Africa is
Lasiopyga nemaiis.
4th. I ascended the Groene Berg, which is about 400
feet above the plain. The baboons grumbled at my approach
with a sort of hoarse " wah; " some of them were very large;
I tried to get near them, but only once succeeded. Two
Rheeboks, Redunca capreolus, also retreated hastily on my ap-
proach. The Nieuwveld is a very elevated country; its highest
point is reckoned by some, at about 10,000 feet above the level
of the sea. The vegetation of this mountain-territory is chiefly
low bushes. A short ride brought us to Groene Berg Fon-
tein, in a shallow valley with schistose sandstone margins.
Here a shoemaker was residing, who said his little harvest
was nearly ready, but that he had been without bread for
several weeks ; and that till the Tenth month, the country
had been so dry, that many persons had lost great numbers
of sheep ; but that since that time, rain had fallen every two
weeks. Daylight failing, we outspanned among some low
hills in a desolate spot.
5th. Two hours' journey brought us to Ratel Fontein, the
residence of a Field-cornet, who had a few acres of corn, and
an excellent orchard, well watered from two copious springs.
He purchased this place of a Boor who emigrated, and who
afterwards offered him £^5 more to repurchase it. This the
present owner refused to accept, notwithstanding he was pos-
sessed of six other places in the neighbourhood; he had
erected a horse-mill, capable of grinding twenty-four bushels
of wheat in a day, and was making other improvements. In the
afternoon, we passed two houses, one of which was empty,
I I 3
502 MOUTONS FONTEiN. [12th mo.
and at the expiration of four hours, outspanned in a sandy-
hollow, aifording pasturage and water.
6th. Early in the morning, we had a visit from an agree-
able young man, the son of a Boor at Riet Fontein, who
showed us kindness when we reached his house. We also
called at Droogvoet Fontein, Dryfoot Fountain, the residence
of another of his sons, who was lately settled there with his
wife and two children. Their furniture consisted of portable
articles, such as are generally taken by an African Boor, in
his wagon, when travelling. A little serves in this part of
the world, and these young people were commendably endea-
vouring to improve their circumstances before enlarging their
expenses. The water of their little fountain was made the
most of, in irrigating a small piece of corn-land. We stopped
in the evening in a sandy hollow, within sight of the fires of
some people in charge of sheep and cattle. The country
though a little undulating, was still uninteresting Karroo.
Very few animals were to be seen ; but the holes of Porcu-
pines were numerous, and as they were frequently made in
the road, probably because in such situations there were few
roots to obstruct burrowing, it was often necessary to turn the
wagon out of the track to miss them. The Porcupine, Hystrix
cristata, is called in the Colony, Izer Vark, Iron Pig, and the
Ant-eater, Aard Vark, Earth Pig ; both make burrows much
larger than those of the Fox ; the Cape Ant-eater, Oryctero-
pus capensis, is 4 feet from the tip of the nose to the base of
the tail; its tail is 2 feet long, and its ears are 7 inches. — The
best places for cattle in these deserts, are those which are
saline, and afford a shrubby Atriplex, and other plants gener-
ally found on the sea-coast. These are termed "Brak-places,"
and such shrubs are called, " Brak-bushes." When first our
oxen were under the necessity of eating brak-bushes, we felt a
little dismay ; but now we looked out anxiously for a brak-
place.
7th. We proceeded to Moutons Fontein, where we con-
cluded to remain over First-day, near the house of a Dutch
farmer. Here we obtained sheep, and spent a little time
with the farmer and his wife pleasantly ; their numerous and
1839.] CAPE COLONY. 503
fierce dogs rendered caution more than usually necessary in
approaching their house.
8th. We had a religious interview with the farmer, his
wife and a brother, in whom there was considerable open-
ness to receive Christian counsel, so that it was interesting to
be thus thrown in their way. The two young men joined us
in the afternoon, when our own little company was gathered
together for devotional purposes; they were interested in
hearing our Bechuana youths read portions of Holy Scrip-
ture in their native tongue, and in seeing them looking at
the chapter which was read from the Dutch Testament.
9th. We crossed the Kleine Riet Rivier, Little Reed River,
and keeping northward, outspanned for the night by the
house of a Boor, who showed considerable tenderness, when
spoken to on his eternal interests, and returned little atten-
tions by kindnesses. Some Hottentots mistaking us for tra-
ders, brought Ostrich-feathers to the wagon to exchange for
tobacco.
10th. On the way to the Groote Riet Rivier, we met an
emigrating Boor with his wagon and family : they received a
tract with expressions of satisfaction ; but another, who was
feeding sheep at the Elands River, having with him his wife
and five little daughters, dressed in leathern frocks, accepted
one, and returned it by our herdsman. Some of the Boors
are afraid of being contaminated by reading tracts. In the
evening, we passed a small settlement of Hottentots, none of
whom could read; and after sunset, we saw others of this class
at Titus Fontein, where there were some houses in a ruinous
condition. We outspanned in a sandy hollow, where our
people killed two young Porcupines, which were an accept-
able addition to our provisions. On the tails of these animals,
there are several hollow quills, open at the top, in which, it is
said, they convey water to their young.
11th. In the forenoon we came upon a chain of pools in
the bed of a brook, called the Bushmans River, by the side
of which, was the encampment of a Vee Boor, who was tem-
porarily feeding his flocks at this place : he was accompanied
by his wife and one of their female friends. They received
us in an agreeable manner, accepted some tracts thankfully,
504 ONDER ROGGEVELD. [l2th mO.
furnished us with milk and meat, free of cost, and gave us
information respecting our road, as far as they were able.
The path on which we were travelling, was so little known,
that when people gave us information respecting it for a
short distance westward, they usually concluded their ob-
servations by saying, "Verder is onbekend," Further is
unknown. Miles are unknown distances in this part of the
land; it is not common to compute distance by them in
the Colony, but by hours; these, taken by the ox-wagon
at its usual rate of travelling, are about three miles each,
but on long journeys like ours, two and a half. An hour
with a horse-wagon is about five miles, and on horseback,
five to six miles. By the Bushmans River, I saw a bul-
bous-rooted plant, with a raceme of a few, nodding, reflexed,
greenish flowers, an inch and a half across. Here I also
found a Bushman's fiddle, the body of which was made of
sheepskin, stretched on a wooden frame. — After passing a
low ridge, we made a long descent to the Rhinoster Rivier,
Rhinoceros River, in the deep, sandy bed of which there was
a pool. Here we were joined by two Hottentots from Titus
Fontein, who were going on business to a neighbouring Field-
cornet, and who partook of our fare. At this place there
were extensive sheep-kraals, and a hartebeest hut, which had
been left by a Boor who had emigrated. Probably at some
period the Rhinoceros may have abounded in this vicinity,
as within an inconsiderable distance there are three other
Rhinoster Riviers. The country on this side of the Groote
Riet Rivier is called the Onder Roggeveld, Lower Rye-field,
it is in the extensive district of Clan William. — In the after-
noon we travelled three hours further over this land of stony
hills and stunted bushes, which is mountainous, and afforded
some fine, wild views. Not finding water, we outspanned
before dark, in a deep hollow, among hiUocks of tumbled
basalt, where forage for the cattle was pretty good. — I often
admired the mercy by which we were temporarily freed from
care, and permitted to feel a degree of peaceful quietude in
our wagon, in traversing these wide and sterile wastes, espe-
cially when at our resting-places ; this, for the time, almost
removed the impression of being in a strange land.
1839.] CAPE COLONY. 505
12th. Three hours' ride brought us to the Hartebeest or
Karroo Fish River, which had a slender stream running to-
ward the Orange River, to which it is tributary. By the
sides of the Fish River there were some large willows, which
were the first trees we had seen since ascending the Nieuw-
veld. After crossing the river, we were perplexed by nu-
merous roads, but in the end we were favoured to select the
right one. This, in three hours more, led us to Muiskraal
Rivier, which, though not large, had lately been flooded, and
afibrded an abundant supply of water. In the bed of this
river, and some others in this part, Crinum capense was sup-
porting heads of fine, white, trumpet-shaped, Hly-like flowers.
13th. In the forenoon, we arrived at Kok Fontein, Boiling
Fountain, where some springs issued from interstices of the
rocky bed of a river. Near the ford, the family of an aged Boor
was residing in mat-huts. We did not visit him, as his wife,
who was a Hottentot, said he was so deaf, that we could not
make him hear : she and some grown-up daughters came to
the wagon, saying they were stupid and unable to read, and
had therefore come to hearken. We had previously had some
conversation with a Bushman, who had been a year at the
Wesleyan missionary station of Lily Fountain. This man
regretted that there was now no missionary station at the
Zak Rivier, where a Missionary named Kitcherer formerly
laboured, or nearer the Orange River, in the Bushman
country. Two other coloured men had also been the subjects
of religious counsel, and the women had been induced to
come to us through their medium. We sat down with them
on the sand, and directed them to the teaching of the Divine
Spirit, assuring them that if they were attentive thereto, they
would be enabled to read in the book of their own hearts,
that the Lord himself would be their teacher, and would
bring them to salvation through repentance and faith in
Christ, of whom they had heard. When conversing with
the Bushman he seemed to feel something of the power of
divine love, and several times exclaimed, " Precious Jesus ! "
In the afternoon, we reached Lang Fontein, having as-
cended a range of mountains, called Roggeveld Bergen.
This place had a considerable population, living in houses
506 LANG FONTEIN. [l2th mO.
and mat-huts : it belonged to a widow, who was from
home, but whose daughter received us kindly ; one of her
nephews, who was sojourning here on his way to Natal,
gave us important information respecting our journey. He
had resided in Namaqualand, and was well acquainted with the
country; he said that the road to Clan William was very
rugged and difficult to travel, and that from thence to the
Kamiesberg was so heavy a sand, that he was sure, that if our
oxen got us there, they would not bring us back, and that we
were already far to the northward of Clan William ; that the
direct road to the Kamiesberg was good ; that many families
resided along its course, and that by taking it, we should
shorten the whole distance of our journey nearly 200 miles.
Having received from him particular instructions, and a
rough sketch of the roads, with a hst of names of the Boors
residing upon it, we concluded, to take his counsel, and to
aim direct for the Kamiesberg, unless upon further delibera-
tion we should feel such mental uneasiness as to induce us to
think such a proceeding would be wrong. This man and his
wife and family were living in a large mat-hut, which they
praised as being freer from draughts than a house, and which
seemed a good, fine-weather habitation, and very portable,
but it looked ill calculated for storms and rain. The rushes
are strung parallel to each other, and they swell with wet so
as to close the interstices ; but when rain first comes on, it
beats in uncomfortably.
Many Boors were still leaving this country and proceeding
toward Natal, of which they spoke highly, as being more
fruitful than the Cape Colony ; some of them had visited the
Natal country. When compared with the sterile wilderness
over wliich we had been travelling from the time we left
Griqua Town, it seemed no cause of wonder that they should
be captivated with the greater fertility of the east coast. Never-
theless, when the healthiness of the land they were leaving,
was taken into account, and that they had generally had pas-
turage in it for their sheep and cattle, each family occupying
a large tract, we thought, many of them would regret having
left it. They had also a fair share of the necessaries of life in
the Cape Country, many comforts were within their reach,
1839.] CAPE COLONY. 507
and they had lived in peace ; but, to-day, I caught the painful
remark of an artless individual, that plenty of slaves were to
be had at Natal, so many coloured women had lost their hus-
bands in the wars ! Here I apprehend, was one great root
of the emigration of the Dutch colonists. They were dis-
satisfied at the abolition of slavery ; and the intervention of
the apprenticeship, between the reception of the compensa-
tion money and the freedom of the slave, gave time for this
dissatisfaction to ripen, before the advantage of the slaves
being free could be proved to them.
I do not suppose the Dutch looked to selling slaves to
foreigners at Natal, but to obtaining compulsory service, with
little or no payment beyond necessary food. This indeed
was almost all that many of their coloured servants yet had,
on many of the Colonial farms, in the interior. The prin-
cipal difference between their present state of freedom and
their former one of bondage, was, that legally, they were
protected from personal abuse, and could obtain their wages
if ever so small, and that they knew, that, by law, they were
free, and could change their masters. These truly are great
points, and they were producing an ameliorating effect both
upon masters and servants ; but it was remarkable how much
in this part of the country, the benefit of the emancipation
was rather mental than physical, and how httle, many of the
coloured people apprehended the nature of the protection of
their liberty by British law. Multitudes of them abandoned
this privilege, and accompanied the emigrating Boors beyond
the frontier.
14th. We set forward direct for the Kamiesberg, and
travelled six hours among stony hills, passing a small stream
near a ruined house, and came to Daunis Kloof, on the
Daunis River, which had water in pools, and near to which
we outspanned, a mile from the house of a Boor.
15th. We visited the neighbouring Boor. Not finding
the way open for any settled religious interview with the
family, we entered into conversation with them, and endea-
voured in this way, to set before them the importance of
eternal things. Among the company assembled at their
house, were a family on their way to Natal, and several young
508 DAUNis KLOOF. [12th mo.
Boors from different places within thirty miles distance ; some
of these seemed to have an ear open to religious subjects ; to
others they were evidently uninteresting. Some of the co-
loured servants of the visitors came to the door and listened
attentively, and we availed ourselves of the opportunity for
putting some tracts into circulation. When the master of
the house was last in town, he had purchased a quarto, black-
lettered, Dutch Bible, with a strong binding, and brass-
clasps : many of the Boors have these in folio, and they
often occupy a small stand in one comer of the common sit-
ting-room. How little soever the conduct of many of these
people may accord with the precepts of Scripture, they uni-
versally have a great veneration for the sacred volume. In-
deed, to too many, it seems a sort of household god, the book
being read at stated times, and reverenced, while the wiU of
Him through whose mercy it has been given to mankind, is
comparatively little regarded. — Here we were civilly invited
to partake of spirits, which many of the Boors use in small
drams, called Soupies, several times a day ; these, as well as
food, they hospitably offer to strangers : we partook with
them of the latter, but declined the former. This kind of
drinking is probably conducive to an unhealthy corpulence
common among the Boors, and to destructive diseases by
which they are sometimes attacked; rheumatic fever is among
these ; it had carried off several of the men of this neighbour-
hood.
16th. I had some conversation with a stranger here, who
was formerly employed by the Rhenish Missionaries, at Wup-
perthal, near Clan William, and furnished him with a black-
letter Bible. In return for this and a few tracts, we received
from him the very acceptable present of two loaves. We
purchased bread where we could on the road, to save our
own stock, which was dried, and which would soon have
been expended without these helps. Some of the bread was
very coarse ; when white bread is made, the bran taken out
of it is generally added to the brown ; wheat is too scarce an
article to allow the bran to be wasted, or used as it is Eng-
land. The coarse bread is used in common, for servants, but
we were often glad to get it for ourselves.
1839.] CAPE COLONY. 509
This morning, we entered the Hantam, and pursued the
course of the Daunis River, the water of which was running
in some places, and formed pools in others, but it was often
lost in the shaly sand of the bed of the river. The country-
was still karroo, the scenery picturesque. The mountains
on the right formed a continuous range, but were much
diversified ; those on the left were more isolated. Two hours
from Daunis Kloof brought us to Onder Daunis, or Onwe-
tende Fontein, Unknown Fountain, the residence of a person
whose father-in-law, though in good circumstances, and pos-
sessed of eight farms, was about to emigrate to Natal ! Three
hours further was Akkerendam, Tillage-dam, to the right of
our road. Here was the cheering sight of a fine crop of
wheat, on a fine piece of land, irrigated from an adjacent
kloof. An hour further, was Rams Kop, Kams Head, where
there was also corn, and a good house belonging to a Boor,
whose open-hearted demeanour was quite refreshing ; his
house and family bore the impression of more cultivation
than was generally found among the Boors of this district;
and his sentiments respecting the emigration of his country-
men indicated christian reflection : he commented on the
duty of being content with having food and raiment, and
upon the danger of becoming unsettled by the talk of men of
discontented minds, who had not peace in themselves, and
were unthankful. We parted from this individual with some
reluctance ; but had we staid, the oxen must have been tied
up to prevent their getting among his corn, and they were too
weak to accomplish the journey without every indulgence ;
we therefore travelled another hour, and then drove them
among the hills to feed for the night. There was a heavy
thunder-shower in the course of the day, and lightning the
two previous nights.
17th. Brunsvigia toxicaria was now in flower among the
karroo bushes ; its blossoms, which form a large, spherical
head, are smaller than those of the Guernsey Lily, and are of
a pale or dingy red colour. The morning was cloudy, but plea-
sant for travelling. " The shadow of a cloud " is peculiarly
reheving from the heat in this land. We called at Rivier Plaats,
River Place, the residence of a Boor, who was from home, but
510 LEEUW RiETS. [12th mo.
whose wife gave us a cup of tea, and some instructions respect-
ing the road : she made many inquiries respecting our views of
emigration to Port Natal ; this was a common subject of in-
quiry, and one on which we gave our sentiments freely. We
crossed the Daunis River once yesterday, and three times to-
day ; twice near Buffels Kop Fontein, where we met a widow
with several children, walking from the dwelling of one of
their neighbours, accompanied by a coloured woman, advanced
in years, who seemed to have been nurse in the family, and
whom it was pleasant to see treated with becoming respect.
The interview with this party was very satisfactory ; they ac-
cepted some tracts with gratitude. They, with many others,
retained a pleasant recollection of the pious labours of Wil-
liam Robertson, now of Zwellendam, who, at one time,
resided at Clan William, as minister of this extensive district,
which he visited diligently. Since he left, the people had
had no such visits. Passing over some high land, we came
to Oorlogs Kloof Fontein, War-valley Fountain, and out-
spanned near the house of another Boor, who was from home;
his wife and family received us kindly, and readily supplied
us with provisions.
18th. After some conversation with the family, in which
their attention was directed to the teaching of the Holy Spirit,
by which, in their remote situation, they might become in-
structed in the way of salvation, we again pursued our jour-
ney, and in three hours again outspanned near the Daunis
River ; on its banks at this place, there were a few, small
trees of a species of the Rhus, called Karreeboom. In another
hour we came to Leeuw Riets, Lion Reeds, from whence both
the lions and reeds had departed. Here the wife of a Boor
directed us forward, and we travelled other four hours over
high country, affording fine mountain prospects. Some of
the hills in this part of the country, were thickly besprinkled
with various species of Cotyledon ; the thick stumps of one
of them presented a curious appearance.
19th. The place where we stopped last night, proved fa-
vourable for water, and moderately so for food for the cattle.
After descending a hill, we came upon a country where a
stratum of sandstone overlaid the argillaceous formation, and
1839.] CAPE COLONY. 511
the land was clothed with Elytropapus Rhinocerotis, the Rhi-
nosterbos, Rhinoceros-bush, a low shrub, which is said to
grow only on country which will produce wheat. The corn-
fields were just reaped, the sheaves in some places were still
remaining on the land. This was a pleasant sight, compared
with the dismal Karroo, notwithstanding the crop was very
poor. We stopped at noon by the house of a civil Boor, with
whom, and several of his neighbours casually present, much
conversation passed on the object of our journey, our views of
emigration, &c. Some of the party were about to visit Natal,
and were evidently in an unsettled state of mind. A spirit
of loathing of the country which they and their forefathers
took from the Hottentots, seemed to have been permitted to
come upon them in a very remarkable manner. — The people
here were thrashing by driving a troop of horses over the
corn, laid upon a clay-floor, within a circular fence : this
mode of " treading out the corn, " either by means of oxen
or horses, is commonly practised in South Africa.
We were recommended here to engage a Hottentot as guide
to the Kamiesberg, the roads becoming now more numerous
and perplexing, and the watering places fewer. Our course
now lay along the Williams River, a branch of the Doom
Rivier. The sandy ground along its rocky margin was clothed
with Proteas and other bushes, and with coarse, rushy herbage,
much like some of that near Cape Town. In the river there
was a species of Willow, differing from that which we had
before met with in Southern Africa. In attempting a short
cut to the wagon, my companion missed his way, and did
not reach us till late. On making to a house, he had the
satisfaction of finding that its occupants were relatives of the
Fortuins of Griqua Town ; one of them, though somewhat
coloured, was married to a respectable Dutchman, who had
risen above the prejudices of his countrymen in this respect.
Her father accompanied G. W. Walker to the wagon, paid
us a satisfactory visit, and took back some tracts. Jackals
were very noisy this evening ; we rarely heard them in the
desolate country over which we had lately been travelling. In
many parts, the noise made by them and Hyenas as soon as
the sun sinks below the horizon, is very remarkable. The
512 BOKKEVELD MOUNTAINS. [12th mO.
silence of the wilderness is broken in upon, and while the
twilight lasts, the country may often be said to ring with
their howls and cries. The common Jackal is the Canis
mesomelas ; the whole tribe much resemble the Fox ; pro-
bably the animal noticed at page 89, as the Bonte Vos, was
the Canis variegatus, known also as the Vaal Jakhals, Mouse-
coloured Jackal.
20th. At Bok Fontein, we engaged a Hottentot guide.
In the evening, we proceeded to Kok Fontein, the residence
of a Boor, who with several coloured people, was grinding
corn, at a handmill, composed of a pair of small stones.
Motion was given to the upper one, by means of three
pieces of wood forming a triangle, which had two points sus-
pended from the ceiling, and the third attached to the crank.
The position of this apparatus being horizontal, three men
or more could apply their strength at one time, so as to make
the mill-stone revolve rapidly.
21st. Pursuing our journey for an hour, we came to the
edge of the Bokkeveld Bergen, Buckfield Mountains, which
were here about 2,000 feet high. The usual place of descent
was more to the north \ but the road from it was impassable,
from the effect of rain which had lately fallen. We were there-
fore under the necessity of descending at a steep place, with
short turns. To effect this, it was needful to reduce the
team of oxen to six ; the remainder were then driven off the
road, at a distance down the hill. Four thongs were at-
tached to the hinder part of the wagon ; by means of these,
four of our party held it back. The two hind wheels were
locked with chains, having a man to attend to each, and to
drive the oxen onwards as required ; one man was also at
their heads to guide them. The chains were alternately
shifted, so as only to allow the wagon to move forward two
or three feet at a time, while the parties behind used all their
force to prevent its gaining impetus. In this manner, we
were enabled to effect the descent of this cumbrous vehicle
safely, to a place where the common precaution of using a
drag-shoe was alone necessary, and we reached the plain be-
low without accident. On the descent of this mountain, we
first saw the remarkable Tree Aloe, Aloe arborescens, called
1839.] CAPE COLONY. 513
here, Kokerboom, which signifies Quiver-tree, the Bushmen
sometimes forming their quivers from its branches ; this tree
is represented at page 292. The side of the mountain was
argillaceous, its top alone being sandstone. Karroo-bushes
covered its sides, and the plain below scarcely afforded any-
thing but such species of Mesembryanthemum and Euphorbia as
the cattle could not eat. We rested a short time by the side
of a dry watercourse, and then proceeded to Stink Fontein ;
before arriving there, one of our after oxen fell down from
exhaustion, being what the Dutch call " Flaauw, " Faint.
We had tried in vain, to obtain fresh ones, by purchase or
exchange; few people had more than they needed for their own
use, and in this dry season, even these were generally weak.
Stink Fontein takes its name from the fetid smell of its
water, which is brackish, and gives out sulphuretted hydro-
gen. There is at this place a beautiful stream of clear
water, but it is excessively salt. The common Reed, Phrag-
mites communis, is abundant along its borders, and here, as
well as in some other salt places, it produces long, prostrate
shoots. Our cattle fared sumptuously on the young tops of
the Reeds, disdaining the Brak-bushes, which were here very
plentiful, as were also Doornbooms and the Abiquas Geel-
hout, Abiquas Yellow-wood; the latter is a bluish, arbor-vitee-
like bush, 15 feet high, with slender shoots, and closely im-
bricated cones, about three quarters of an inch long, and as
thick as a quill ; this shrub is called also Daweep or Dabby-
tree. Under the shelter of one of these, our wagon was sta-
tioned ; it was within sight of a remarkable cluster of Koker-
booms, on one of which an Eagle was sitting. The place of
their growth was a slope of fractured slate : some of them had
trunks 9 feet high, and 10 feet round, with curious plates of
bark ; their heads were thickly branched and almost hemi-
spherical ; each branch was terminated by a few, fleshy, blu-
ish, tapering leaves, about 1 foot long; they were not in
blossom, but the flower-spikes are short. The wood is
lighter than cork. Four Ostriches fled from near the river
as we approached it. The holes of Porcupines were numer-
ous ; but wild animals were not generally abundant in this
neighbourhood, except occasionally Springboks ; and when
K K
514 STINK FONTEiN. [I2th mo.
they migrate to this part of the country, lions will sometimes
follow them. Leopards were sufficiently numerous among
the mountains to render it unsafe for foals to be left out at
night, or for sheep to remain out of the fold. At certain
seasons some of the family from Bok Fontein visited this
place with their cattle; but at this time there were no human
beings but ourselves in the neighbourhood.
22nd. The day was cloudy, with some showers. Our
people protected themselves in booths, made of branches.
We had some devotional reading with them, and spent a little
time in silent waiting upon God. Our reading, in course,
was in Revelations ; I had to notice, on this occasion, that
though there is much in this book concerning the hidden
things of God, which he alone can enable man to understand,
in his own time, his glory with that of his Son Jesus Christ,
is nevertheless remarkably exhibited throughout the whole of
it. The mercy offered to them tjiat repent and believe, is
also clearly set forth, as well as the indignation and wrath
that shall be the portion of the rebellious. I had also to
point out, that the denunciations against the heathen, in this
book, and in other parts of the Scriptures, do not belong to
persons not baptized with water, to whom the term heathen is
generally applied in this country ; but to those who are not
subject to the power of the Holy Spirit, even though, because
of having been baptized, they may call themselves Christians;
that among the unbaptized with water many are to be found
who dwell under the baptism of the Holy Spirit, and are true
disciples of Jesus Christ. Through the condescension of di-
vine mercy, there was a sweet feeling of our Heavenly Father's
love granted to us, in this solitary and desolate wilderness.
23rd. On account of the weak state of the cattle, we con-
cluded to remain here to-day. Nothing in particular attracted
our attention, but a Jackal drinking the salt water, and some
of the plants, among which was a pretty Frankenia, with a
pink blossom as large as a silver penny. The best water we
could obtain was so salt that the coffee made from it failed
to quench thirst.
24th. We set forward at noon, and travelled across the
dismal Bokkeveld Karroo, upon which a fine Aloe was
1839.] CAPE COLONY, 515
scattered ; one I gathered, had a flower-stem with upwards of
thirty branches, with scattered blossoms, of a lively red.
Leaving the argillaceous country, we came upon one of gra-
nite, and after travelling some distance over granitic sand,
producing various species of Euphorbia, and numerous bushes,
at the expiration of nine hours and a half, we came to Leeu-
wins Kuil, Lioness's Den, under a low granite hill ; here our
people expected to find water, but it was all dried up.
25th. In the course of our journey this morning, which
was of five hours and a half, among hills of Red Granite, we
saw several herds of cattle ; their tracks, were numerous to-
ward a watering-place called Huil Klip, Howl Rock ; but the
place lay too far to the southward for us to turn aside to it,
notwithstanding we were very thirsty. In rainy weather,
vegetation springs rapidly in these otherwise barren tracts ;
and the people of the neighbouring countr}'', white and co-
loured, who have cattle, avail themselves of the opportunity,
to feed their cattle in these parts, so long as the grass, or
other congenial herbage, and water last ; by this means they
save the pasturage nearer to the springs for drier weather.
All sorts of cattle, in this country, feed on certain bushes ;
those congenial to the taste of oxen and horses, were more
numerous here than on the Karroo ; but still the poor animals
rarely got a sufficient supply of food. When we stopped, the
cattle had had no water for twenty-four hours, and within that
time, they had travelled fifteen hours ; they were now driven
to Tafelberg Fontein, a spring known to our guide, on the
ascent of a mountain named Tafelberg, Table Mountain, two
miles from the road. Here a few coloured people, of Dutch
and slave descent, were dwelling in mat huts: most of them
complained that the Boors occupied all the fountains till there
was no place left for them in the land ; they said also, that if
they found a place where they judged there was water, and
cleared it out, some Boor was sure to come and lay claim to it,
and to drive them aAvay ; but a man who was sick of the
measles, and had a small flock of sheep and goats, said the
neighbouring Boors were kind to him ; and that the owner of
this fountain had given him leave to " lie here, '' as they
term sojourning with their flocks.
K K 2
516 ZWABTE DOORN RIVIER. [12th mO.
26th. An emancipated apprentice, who was growing corn
in an adjacent kloof, and several of the people from the foun-
tain came to the wagon, and we had some conversation on
their eternal interests. After killing a sheep which we pur-
chased of them, we proceeded through a pass among hills of
Granite and Gneis, to Brak Fontein, where a family were
residing in a mat hut, and feeding a few cows and sheep.
There was a copious spring here of brackish water. We next
proceeded to Draai Fontein, Turn Fountain, where we had a
short interview with another little group of coloured people,
residing by the bed of the Hartebeest Rivier, on the sides of
which there were a few Doornbooms. We stopped for the
night further up the river, where was a solitary hut and a
weak spring, on an opposite hill. The holes dug in the
granitic sand of the river were all dry. We had now entered
the colonial part of Little Namaqualand.
27th. A tedious drag of four hours and a half through
sandy mountain-passes brought us to Hout Berg, Wood Moun-
tain, on the Zwarte Doom Rivier, along which there were
beautiful, umbrageous Doornbooms, clothed to the ground
with verdure, and with blossoms of golden hue, in thready
balls, the size of marbles. Here was one mat hut, occupied
by three children, whose parents were out at work : they were
naked, except having a handkerchief about the head, and a
square piece of skin suspended in front by means of a band
about the loins. Though this is common with children, the
adult, coloured population of this part of the country are
always decently clad. The people had sown pumpkins and
calabashes in the bed of the river; these the children pointed
out with pleasure. They obtained good water by digging in
the sand of the river, notwithstanding many brak-bushes were
growing along its margins. The Kokerboom was scattered
over the mountains among which we travelled this morning ;
one we measured had a trunk 18 feet high. In the afternoon
we travelled two hours and a half further, and in order to
secure a supply of water, turned southward to Twee Fonteins,
Two Fountains, and outspanned on the property of a Boor,
toward whose house we immediately proceeded. We soon
met the son-in-law of the Boor, coming to see who had taken
1839.] CAPE COLONY. 51^
such a liberty. A little explanation satisfied him, and after
conversing on the nature of our journey, and the best place
for the oxen to feed, we parted, with an understanding that
we should visit the family on the morrow. One of our oxen
lay down several times to-day, and another was so much
exhausted as to reach this place with difficulty, long after the
rest. These two were from the Kat River, where they were
accustomed to grass ; they consequently suffered more than
the others, in being reduced for a long time to a scanty
supply of bushes.
28th. We had some conversation with the Boor's family,
who kindly sent us some milk. Their house stood at the
foot of some lofty, granite hills, with bare, rounded tops,
from which the Western Atlantic was visible. Wheat grew
here without irrigation, but the crops were thin. The cul-
tivated land was suffered to lie dormant every other year, the
sheep and oxen browsing what grew upon it, and thus sup-
plying a light manuring. Snow lies here in winter, some-
times to a considerable dejDth ; the elevation of the country
is great, especially that of the adjacent mountains, the Kam-
iesbergen.
29th. We had some religious service with the family, and
some visiters. In the afternoon, we walked to the top of
one of the adjacent hills, for exercise, and to " view the
land. " The scenery was magnificent, but the appearance of
the country far from inviting. On one hand, granite moun-
tains, and beyond them, the ocean, bounded the panoramic
view; on the other, the clay-slate and sandstone mountains
of the Bokkeveld. In the intervening country, the houses
of two Boors, with their corn-fields, and a few sandy roads,
showed that this wilderness was inhabited by human beings.
The sight of the Atlantic awakened emotions connected with
the termination of our protracted journeyings, such as, though
not unpleasing, were yet not desirable to be much indulged ;
for as the conclusion of a voyage is often fraught with more
danger than its course, so is often the conclusion of such
services as those in which we were engaged. The mind is in
danger of being unduly diverted by anticipations of the future^
and thus distracted from present duty.
K K 3
518 FOOT OF THE KAMIESBERG. [12tll mO.
30th. One of the oxen continuing to be unable to walk, we
were under the necessity of leaving it, and it subsequently died.
The road to the ascent of the Kamiesberg continued over
sandy, granitic hills, among which the singular Stapelia pedun-
culata was in flower. Leaving this road, I walked to Doom
Kraal, where a family, ill in the measles, were living in two,
large, mat huts, till they should have opportunity to build a
house : they received my visit agreeably, and as well as a
stranger whom I had before met, and who was casually there,
accepted a few tracts. Making a direct course among some
hills to the ascent of the Kamiesberg, I found the wagon
outspanned about a mile from water, to which the oxen were
driven and left for the night.
The Hottentots living in the district through which we
had lately passed, and in which there were some persons who
behaved kindly to them, were generally, far from being in cir-
cumstances favourable to advancement in christian know-
ledge, or from being in the enjoyment of that measure of
freedom which was designed for them as British subjects, and
which is essential to their improvement, even as servants.
Neither they nor the Boors, among whom they live, have
any religious instruction, unless they go to Clan William for
it. This some of the Boors do, once a quarter, to the *'Nacht
Maal.^' Nor have they any schoolmasters except such as
few of them hire for a year or two, to teach the whole
family, exclusive of their coloured servants. These school-
masters are generally old soldiers, or persons who have been
unsuccessful in business, in consequence of the temptation to
use strong drink having been too great for them in towns.
Under these circumstances, it is not to be expected that the
Hottentots will receive much instruction, and it is rare indeed
to find one of them who can read. Their wages were at this
time 4s. 6d. a month, with food and clothing at the discretion
of their employers ; and they were meanly clad, and lodged in
dirty out-houses, devoid of every comfort. Under present
arrangements, they can have their wages on applying for
them, and they are at liberty to seek a fresh master ; but the
Boors are so connected, that it is not easy for one who has
not been satisfied with his old master, to obtain employment
1839.] CAPE COLONY. 519
from another ; and it is as difficult for one travelling on such
an errand, to obtain food. If a Hottentot thinks himself ag-
grieved, he may complain to the Field-cornet, who is himself
a Boor, and generally ready to defend his fellow ; he there-
fore strives to throw the blame on the Hottentot ; the Hot-
tentot consequently looks upon the receipt of a flogging as
the probable result of complaint; he therefore patiently bears
his wrongs.
The coloured classes are not, however, altogether friend-
less in this part of the country, though liable to be severely
handled by the whites, as the following anecdote may show.
A Bushman had stolen a sheep from a farmer on the Bokke-
veld, and was found roasting it in a neighbouring kloof ; he
was one who had occasionally worked for the Boors, and
could speak a little Dutch. For this offence, he received a
flogging ; being at the same time informed, that he might
always obtain meat at the Boor's, if he would come and work
for it. After a time, he stole another sheep, and was again
detected, and brought to the Boor's house, where a lash of
three strips of dressed hide was prepared to flog him with ;
against this, the Boor's wife expostulated, saying, one strip
was enough. The Bushman was commanded to strip, and
lie down, and he received many severe stripes on his back :
at length he was unable to bear the pain, and he turned over;
he was commanded again to present his back, or he should
receive the stripes as he lay. He replied, he would not turn,
" Bas," Master, must do as he liked. The Bushman was then
struck in a very barbarous manner, till the deadly rage of the
Boor subsided, and the Bushman was going away. At this
moment, a brother of the Boor came up, and hearing what the
Bushman had done, beat him about the head with such violence
that he broke the small-bone of his own arm. The Boor's wife
said, this was a judgment upon him, for the Bushman had al-
ready received more than a sufficient punishment. But cruel
as was the Boor, he was, nevertheless, more merciful than the
British law was at the same period ; it would then have put
a man to death for such an offence ; and the law of a country
must be regarded as influencing by its example, those who
ought to be subject to it.
520 BOKKEVELD KARROO. [12th mO.
Many of the Boors live in places remote from observation,
and far from courts of law ; under such circumstances, they
have sometimes taken the law into their own hands, and have
inflicted capital punishment. Two of them, are said, some
years ago, to have shot a white man on the Bokkeveld
Karroo, where he had shot an ox, and to have left his
remains unburied. It was supposed, that the man who was
shot, was a sailor ; whether hunger tempted him to kill the
ox, or he killed it for some other cause, his destroyers did
not stop to inquire. Among those who emigrated, there
was reason to fear that a very considerable number had
blood-guiltiness upon their consciences. Others inherited
the curse of a " spirit of unrest" from other causes; and this
is an evil spirit, which nothing but the power of divine grace
can cast out. Considering the disadvantageous circumstances
under which the Boors have been brought up, they are,
notwithstanding all their misdeeds, real objects of sym-
pathy. Sometimes when conversing with them, they would
denounce the traveller Barrow and Dr. Philip, for having said
hard things of them ; and when we told them that we thought
these men were among their best friends, and that they mis-
took them, they would say. How so ? We then asked, if the
knowledge of Barrow and Dr. Philip, having heard of some
of their misdeeds, and having made them public, had not had
a restraining effect upon themselves, when they had been
provoked by their servants, or by the neighbouring Bush-
men. This they readily admitted had been the case ; and
after such conversation, they seemed to have a somewhat
different opinion of Barrow and Dr. Philip. People sur-
rounded by civilized society, are generally little aware of how
much they owe to the oversight of those around them, for
the character they bear. From what I have seen of English-
men, when removed from under this kind of restraint, I
question if they would have conducted themselves better
towards the coloured people of South Africa, under the same
circumstances, than the Boors have done. Some of the older
people, among the Boors, say, that their children will do
better, with the restraints of altered laws, than they do.
31st. At an early hour, we commenced the ascent of the
1839.] CAPE COLONY. 521
Kamiesberg, The herdsman wished to have left an exhausted
ox at the water, but it was unwilling to remain alone, and it
followed the others to the foot of the hill, which, however, it
could not climb. Much of the road was very steep, notwith-
standing it had been cut in several places. At the top of
the first ascent, we outspanned near a beautiful, little spring
of clear water, which made a plot of ground marshy. On
the marsh, there were some bushes, and the elegant, little,
Monopsis conspicua, and another plant of the Lobelia tribe,
a Bartsia with pink and white blossoms, and several other
little plants. After resting, we proceeded over some less for-
midable hills, to the side of a little bushy streamlet, issuing
from an adjacent kloof, and murmuring along its rugged, gra-
nitic bed. Here we again rested under a large bush, till the
heat of the day was over ; we were visited by a Boor living
higher up the mountain, who came to inquire if we needed
help ; but though our number of efficient oxen was consider-
ably reduced, we still had sufficient to pull us up another
long, winding steep. This being ascended, we could see the
Atlantic from the road, brilliantly reflecting the setting sun.
Passing the Boor's house, and some land lately cleared of
corn, we left this friendly man, who spoke rationally on the
conduct of many of his countrymen who had emigrated to
Natal ; he said, that though he did not doubt but Natal was
a more fruitful country, yet it was not a land of peace ; he,
however, estimated the fruitfulness of the Kamiesberg much
more highly than I could see ground for. When there is
plenty of rain, the land may yield abundance, but abstractly
considered, a poor, granitic sand is far from a fruitful country.
Our road was now down a toilsome steep, hemmed in with
rocks and bushes, so as to require great care in driving.
On this part of the mountain, my companion killed two
Horned Vipers, Vipera lophophrys. Like others of the ge-
nus, this is a dangerous snake ; being small and sluggish, it
is easily trodden upon. We outspanned in a deep kloof,
having grass between the stones, near the summits of the
hills, and small bushes down to the margin of " a tinkling
rill " of clear, fresh water ; this is a treat in Africa, such as,
without the privation of this blessing, persons cannot fully
522 CAPE COLONY. [1st mo. 1840.
estimate. Here the last hours of 1839 passed over our heads;
but such was our drowsiness, induced by the heat and fatigues
of the day, notwithstanding we had only been about four
hours actually travelling, that when we read from the Scrip-
tures, as usual, with our people, there was little capacity for
reflection remaining.
1st mo. 1st. 1840. Pursuing our mountain journey, we
passed two farms, on which there were extensive corn-lands,
and outspanned at noon by the side of a brook, near which
a herd of cattle were feeding, belonging to a Boor, of Ezel Fon-
tein. Ass Fountain, on whom we afterwards called. The vales
become flatter and more extensive among the tops of these
little Alps ; the most elevated peak, which is near this place,
is said to be 2,880 feet above the level of the sea. The house
at Ezel Fontein is marked like those of many others of the
African Boors, by a clump of White Poplars. These are planted
at the spring or fountain, and supply wood for roofing, and
many other useful purposes, which, but for this expedient,
would have to be brought perhaps more than 100 miles.
Near the top of the next ascent, a Heath was growing at a
spring ; it was the first E7'ica we had seen since leaving Lish-
uani, in the Bechuana country. Soon after passing this point,
we came upon the corn-lands of the Missionary Station, on
which many Hottentots were busy reaping Rye; and as the day
was closing, we reached the Wesley an Missionary village of
Lily Fountain, where we received a kind greeting from Joseph
and Mary Ann Jackson, with whom we soon felt at home.
After being refreshed with a cup of tea, we prepared letters
for the monthly post, which was to leave early on the mor-
row, and by which we were able to convey to our friends,
tidings of our safe arrival at this point of our journey.
CHAPTER XXX.
Conference vdth. E. Cook. — Hottentots of the Kamiesbergen. — Lily Fountain. —
Barnabas Shaw. — Oppression of the Hottentots. — Hottentot Language. — Im-
portance of Missionaries being trained to organize Schools. — "Winter. — Mat
Huts, — Beautiful Garments.— Journey to Komaggas.— Erythrophila undu-
lata. — Baboons, — The Petromys. — The Duiker, and other pigmy Antelopes. — •
Granitic Mountains. — Komaggas. — Filthy Water. — Horses obtaining Water.
— Mistletoes. — Colonial Boundary. — Oeg Grawep.— Testimony of J. Engel-
brecht. — The Gemsbok. — Robben Bai. — J. H. Schmelen. — Fishing Party. —
Letters. — Seafowl. — Aukotowa. — Seals. — Whales. — Hottentot Villages. — The
Flamingo. — Meetings by the Sea-side. — Thirsty Horses. — Fast. — Retiurn to
Oeg Grawep.
1st mo. 2nd. Wishing to confer with Edward Cook, of Nis-
bett Bath, who had left Lily Fountain the previous day, re-
specting our journey into Great Namaqualand, Joseph Jackson
accompanied us three hours and a half on horseback, over a
continuation of the mountains, to the place where the mis-
sionary party were outspanned; they consisted of Edward
Cook and his wife and family, and Joseph Tindall and his
wife and son, with their attendants. We spent as pleasant
an afternoon with them as the great heat would allow, under
the shade of a large canvass, stretched between two wagons,
and which was permanently attached to one of them. Joseph
Tindall had just left a good business in Cape Town, under
the belief that it was his duty to join the Great Namaqua-
land Mission, as a Catechist, and his wife united in this
exemplary dedication.
On deliberately conferring upon the subject of our jour-
ney, it was concluded best for us to visit the two stations of
the London Missionary Society in Little Namaqualand,
before attempting to cross the Great Orange River, and
to perform the journey on horseback. After seeing this
524
LILY FOUNTAIN.
[1st mo.
interesting company set forward, in the cool of the day, we
returned to Lily Fountain, repassing a vacant house with an
attached farm, lately purchased by the Wesleyans from a
Boor who emigrated, and from which, as well as from the
others in this neighbourhood, the Hottentots were driven,
within a comparatively recent period. The father of a Hot-
tentot family, now at Lily Fountain, lived in former days, at
the first farm we came to, on ascending the Kamiesberg, but
on the predecessors of the present occupants taking posses-
sion, he, with his dependants, was compelled to leave the
place, notwithstanding it had been the possession of their
forefathers for many generations.
3rd. Being exhausted with travelling, and much disposed
to recruit through the medium of sleep, I spent most of the
day in thus taking rest. I have several times noticed, that,
when this urgent claim of nature is resisted, under such cir-
cumstances, an attack of fever is the consequence.
The Mission village of Lily Fountain, which is represented
in the accompanying cut, takes its name from the growth of
lEilB ^Fountain, aSResUgan Station.
Zantideschia ethiopica, the Lily of the Nile, in the spring at
this place : it consists of a plain, substantial Mission-house,
and some other buildings, used as a school-house and stores ;
also a chapel, standing at a distance from these, as well as
some cattle-kraals, and a considerable number of mat-huts.
The first house erected here, was built by Barnabas Shaw,
1840.] CAPE COLONY. 525
the first Missionary at this station, who also made the first
plough used here, and first taught the Hottentots of the
Kamiesberg to cultivate the soil. When this devoted man
left Cape Town, under the belief that it was his duty to go
into Namaqualand, to instruct the heathen, after travelling
a considerable distance, he met the Chief of Little Namaqua-
land with some attendants, on their way toward Cape Town,
to seek a Missionary : he accompanied them to the Kamies-
berg, where he was favoured to see fruit of his Gospel la-
bours, as well as of his toils, in endeavouring to improve the
temporal condition of the natives. Subsequently, when on a
visit to England, he published some interesting details, in a
volume entitled, " Memorials of South Africa."
4th. Joseph Jackson accompanied us to Ezel Fontein, to
see if a Boor residing there, would allow our oxen to feed on
his ground during our stay in this part of the country : he
kindly said, if we could not do better, the cattle might run
with his milch cows, for he knew that the pasturage at Lily
Fountain must be exhausted. Many places where there was
grass could not be grazed in seasons like this, for want of
water. — The occupation of Lily Fountain by the Wesleyans,
as a missionary station for the Hottentots, who had been
driven from all the other fountains in the vicinity, was granted
by Lord Charles Somerset, while he was Governor of the
Cape Colony. They were also allowed to occupy the con-
tiguous, unappropriated lands, which were their own posses-
sion from their ancestors. The neighbouring Boors, how-
ever, contended, that their own cattle could not be impounded
if they strayed upon these lands, or the more direct mission
property, except that which had been purchased, because
these were Government lands ! But they rigidly impounded
the cattle of the Hottentots for trespass on their lands which
were unfenced : and the distance of the pound, with expenses
at a certain rate per mile, adapted to the vicinity of Cape
Town, and other more thickly inhabited parts of the Colony,
rendered this system so ruinous to the Hottentots, that many
of the most respectable, belonging to the Station said, another
such year as the last would drive them to seek refuge from
such oppression beyond the Great Orange River. This
526 LILY FOUNTAIN. [Ist HIO.
oppression was subsequently remedied by Sir George Napier,
the Governor of the Cape Colony, who paid prompt atten-
tion to the case, on being made acquainted with it.
5th. A prayer-meeting was held soon after sunrise, in
which the Missionary and several of the natives, male and
female, were engaged in vocal supplication. The prayers of
two of the women were in Hottentot, which the people gener-
ally used in conversation, and which some of them understood
better than the Dutch, which most of them had acquired.
Notwithstanding the difficulty of acquiring the Hottentot
language, many of the Boors, in this part of the country,
spoke it fluently, having learned it in childhood, by associa-
tion with the children of their Hottentot servants. — In the
forenoon, I addressed a congregation which met in the chapel,
and amounted to about 400, as did also my companion in
the afternoon. In the evening, after the reading of a portion
of Scripture, I had much counsel and encouragement to con-
vey to the devoted labourers in the work of evangelization,
composing the Mission-family.
6th. I stepped into the school, in which there were sixty
children seated on the floor. Timber has to be brought from
such a distance to this place, that neither the school nor the
chapel are provided with seats. A few persons bring rude chairs
or stools to the chapel, and the rest sit upon the ground. A na-
tive young man acted as schoolmaster ; he had had few advan-
tages, and there was a want of liveliness and system in the
school, and a consequent defect in the progress of the pupils,
many of whom had very intelligent countenances. — Great ad-
vantage would result, if, before Missionaries leave England,
they were to have a few weeks' training in the Borough Road
School and in some good Infant-school, so as to be qualified to
organize schools for mutual instruction, on systematic plans, at
their respective stations. Good schools are great helps, both
in civilization, and in a preparation for the reception of the
Gospel. By disciplining the mind, they prepare it for more
ready submission to the transforming power of divine grace ;
the habit of self-denial becomes established early j and often,
under the blessing of the Most High on the humble labours of
pious school-teachers, " the seed of the kingdom" is sown in
1840.] CAPE COLONY. 527
the youthful heart, and begins early to grow, as in cultivated
ground. — Many of the people here, were suffering severely
from Ophthalmia, and were scarcely able to endure the light. —
The Namaqua Hottentots live universally in mat huts : there
were, at this time, twenty of these at Lily Fountain, and
others in the immediate vicinity. The grass constantly fails
here in winter, when there is also much snow. On the Onder
Veld, the country between the mountains and the sea, it is
not nearly so cold at that season. Not only do the Hotten-
tots remove their mat huts in the winter, from the Kamies-
berg, but the Boors shut up their houses, and sojourn in the
Onder Veld, in mat huts. These are not so damp as tents,
after the first wetting with rain; and they are a better protec-
tion from the sun, and not so close in warm weather : from
their form, they are also more roomy, in proportion to the
area on which they stand ; I have heard them objected to on
account of not being clean; but this is the fault of the people
who occupy them.
The Hottentots are not yet sufficiently advanced in civiliza-
tion to be cleanly. Whether living in cottages or in mat
huts, the few who have acquired cleanly habits are exceptions
to the general rule. They commonly sit upon the ground,
so that their ordinary clothing is much soiled. Most of them,
however, at missionary stations, have better clothes of Man-
chester cottons, reserved for particular occasions. The lan-
guage, "Shake thyself from the dust;" "Put on thy beautiful
garments, " may be addressed to them literally, as an exhor-
tation to prepare for public worship. In their chapels, on
First-days, they are universally attired in their best.
8th. The sheep and goats belonging to the Hottentots
being chiefly at a distance on account of the grain crops,
which are all grown on unfenced lands, as is the custom
throughout South Africa, we found difficulty in obtaining
meat for our people, but to-day we succeeded in purchasing
some sheep at Ezel Fontein, at six shillings and sixpence
each. — The sheep and cattle in this land are subject to peri-
odical diseases, some of which prevail most on the mountains,
and others in the lower country. — Some of the Hottentots of
Lily Fountain had a considerable number of sheep and cattle.
528 KAMIESBERG. [Ist mO.
and eight had wagons, but others were very poor; they are an
interesting people, and never having been brought into sub-
jection by the Boors, there is much more independence of
character among them than among the generality of the
colonial Hottentots.
9th. Having hired five horses, in addition to five of our
own, we left Lily Fountain, accompanied by our Bechuana
attendant, Seberioe, and by William Sneeuwe, a pious Nama-
qua Hottentot, whom we engaged as guide and interpreter.
We had two horses carrying packs with provisions, clothing,
&c. in addition to two each, for riding. In two hours we
reached the house of a Boor by whom we were hospitably
entertained ; our horses were supplied with a mixture of corn
and chaff, and ourselves with coffee, for which no payment
was accepted. We resumed our journey toward evening, at
which time of day, in the summer months, in this part of
Africa, a breeze from the sea usually sets in, and reduces the
heat. The path lay down a very rough, steep kloof, of Gneis,
that was bushy, and wound among granitic mountains, on
which, at a lower level, there were arborescent shrubs. In
two hours and a half we arrived at the dwelling of another
boor, where we were kindly welcomed and entertained by the
family, with whom, and some visitors, we had much conver-
sation on religious topics, in which we endeavoured to direct
their attention to the practical nature of the Gospel. One of
the company, in particular, was exceedingly ready at quoting
Scripture ; but this is sometimes the case where the mind is
still in much darkness, and the life is far from a practical exhi-
bition of the principles of Christianity. The house being
previously full of other guests we were lodged upon the floor
of the blacksmith's shop ; it was well swept, and had sheets
made of spring-bok skins spread upon it, on which were laid
soft feather-beds, so that the place was made very comfort-
able.
10th. Our attentive host refused payment for our enter-
tainment, except for some barley for the horses, purchased at
our request from a neighbour. After taking leave of several
individuals, among whom were some far advanced in years,
we pursued our way to Wolve Poort, Wolf Gate, where we
1840.] CAPE COLONY. 529
obtained meat and bread of a boor's family, for which the hos-
pitable people also declined accepting payment ; but as we
brought away a large quantity, we made them a small present,
of a different kind in return. At noon, we stopped in a dry
kloof that afforded a little pasturage. The heat was great,
and the shade small, but I got a little sleep under the shelter
of a stunted Doornboom, and then walked gently about, by
which means the suffering from the burning sun was materi-
ally reduced. Lizards of the genus Cordylus, were numerous
on the sandstone rocks : the largest were about fifteen inches
long; most of them were of rough species. Here I noticed
some traces of copper ore. In the course of the day, we
travelled over Granite, Gneis, Quartz, and Feldspar, and saw
some traces of Basalt. Among the bushes which clothed
this part of the Kamiesberg, was Erythrophila undulata, a stiff,
low shrub, with triangular, scarlet fruit, more than an inch
long, which looked very tempting ; but on examining them
we found that they were only bladdery capsules, containing
in each cell, one or two hard seeds. A small snake which
was carrying off a lizard, escaped from the samboks of our
people, into a thick bush. Neither birds nor other animals,
except Baboons, were numerous here : a solitary species of
antelope, called the Duiker, and a Hare were all the game we
saw to-day. Some of the Baboons are so large, that one
seen to-day was at first mistaken for a calf. The scarcity of
water had probably occasioned the wild animals to forsake the
country; for notwithstanding the granite hills were about 1,000
feet high, the land in this direction was very destitute of water.
We halted, however, in the course of the afternoon, at a place
where enough was obtained to make coffee, and to allow the
horses an inadequate supply : we then rode till after sunset,
when we reached the dwelling of a family, by whom we were
hospitably received, and accommodated in the best way their
house afforded.
11th. Our host declined accepting payment for the pro-
vision consumed by ourselves and our horses ; we therefore
made a small present to his wife, who deservedly bore the
character of a kind-hearted woman : her kindness extended
not only to white and coloured people generally, but also to
L L
530 BBAK FONTEIN. [Ist mO.
dumb animals. Among her pensioners, were a blind sheep,
which was brought into the house by one of her sons, to get
a Httle milk, and two animals called in common with some
others, Meer-kats : these I suppose were Petromys typicus of
Smith ; they were about the size of a large rat, and of a brown
colour, with dark bars across the back ; and they were fed
with chopped meat. They were fastened by a cord to a
weight, and stood up on their hind feet to look around them ;
in this position they made a protracted chattering, in a man-
ner so exhortatory as to be very amusing. — The Duiker no-
ticed yesterday, Cepholopus mergans, is a common species of
Antelope, in bushy parts of the western side of South Africa ;
it is under two feet high, about three feet and a half long, and
has horns four inches long. Several other species of this
pigmy section of the Antelopes are met with in South Africa.
C. Burchelii, which is about the size of the last; C. Carulea, the
Blauwbok, 13 inches high, and 28 inches long, horns an inch
and a quarter ; C. Ptoox, the Dodger, 20 inches high and 3
feet long, horns 3 inches ; and C. perpusilla, the Klinebok,
12 inches high and 26 inches long, horns nearly 2 inches;
this and C. Burchelii are principally met with in CaiFraria. —
The little garden here was watered from a feeble spring, and
from a dam, in which the rain that fell, on a large, round-
topped bluff of solid Granite, was collected. These bare, red,
skull-like masses of rock are common in this part of the
country, they form the summits of many of the granite
hills. In the course of the journey this morning we some-
times had a view of the sea, and at others of the Kousie or
BufFels Rivier, which is the Colonial Boundary, and lies in a
deep kloof, under lofty hills. It was bordered by Doom-
booms, now in blossom, but it presented no water on its sandy
bed. After a vain search for water at noon, near some old
cattle kraals, we reached Brak Fontein, by a broken path of
rough, red, compact feldspar. At this place there were a few
pools of muddy water, strongly impregnated with sheep-
dung ; but we were glad to reach water, even in this state ;
and to obtain the shade of a solitary Doornboom, to the ends
of the branches of which, numerous globular birds-nests were
suspended. After taking some food and having a short rest, we
1840.]
CAPE COLONY.
531
assembled twenty-three people belongingto the Mission Station
of Komaggas, who had arrived with their cattle on the previous
day, and had erected three mat huts. A chapter in the New
Testament was read, and we endeavoured to convey to them
the feelins: of christian interest excited in our minds on their
behalf. W. Sneeuwy interpreted with great facility into the
Hottentot language. There was to my mind a sweet feeling
of solemnity, as this little service was entered upon ; it was
very comforting, and received as a token for good from the
Father of mercies. — In continuing our journey we passed
some places where thin crops of grain had been harvested
among the hills, and took a path leading down a kloof, be-
tween hills of milk-quartz ; above these there were places,
out of which a white, powdery earth had been dug, which is
used in the place of lime, for whitewashing. For a consider-
able distance, the path was so rough and bad, that it was only
just practicable to travel over it. At length we reached the
foot of the hills, and arrived at Komaggas, which is repre-
sented in the accompanying cut, where a few cottages and
Itomaggas, IConUon jI^issionarB Station.
mat huts, a little windmill, and some gardens, watered by a
copious spring, gave an interest to the scene, of no common
kind, in this wilderness. We had the disappointment of find-
ing that our missionary friend, Johannes Hendricus Schmelen,
had gone with several of the people to the coast to fish, and
was not expected to return for several days, but we met a
kind welcome from his three daughters, and his wife's aunt.
L L 2
532 KOMAGGAS. [Ist mo.
12th. The population of Komaggas is very fluctuating,
many of the people being often under the necessity of mak-
ing temporary removals with their cattle : the number upon
the Station was at this time small ; a large proportion of
them were, more or less remotely, of Dutch and Hottentot
descent. The language of the latter was that chiefly in use ;
and into it, the New Testament and a hymn-book had been
translated by J. H. Schmelen, assisted by his first wife, who
was a pious Hottentot; his daughters had received a fair edu-
cation, and spoke English, as well as Hottentot and Dutch.
The remoteness of their situation, the absence of polite so-
ciety, and a necessary attention to rural and domestic affairs,
gave them much of that kind of character which may be sup-
posed to have attached to women in the patriarchal ages ;
among whom, nevertheless, were the " holy women of old,"
respecting whom honourable mention is made in the Scrip-
tures. — The present wife of J. H. Schmelen is of Dutch ex-
traction : he showed his wisdom in not contemning one, be-
cause of having a tinge of colour, who nevertheless was a suit-
able companion. She had long proved her efficiency as a school
teacher, in Cape Town ; and to this part of the mission-work
her attention was here chiefly directed ; her aunt, who was an
uncommon example of kindness and attention, took the chief
management of domestic affairs. — The people met early in
the forenoon and evening ; when I was requested to read a
chapter to them, which I felt freedom to do ; I also made
reference to many other passages, as they were brought to my
recollection, and were the means of enabling me to convey
the exercise I felt on behalf of those assembled. My com-
panion took no part in the labours of the day, being unwell.
13th. We remained at Komaggas, my companion being
too unwell to proceed. — The buildings here were of rough
stone, and plastered; the chapel was seated with benches
of mason-work, plastered and whitewashed, wood being too
scarce to be applied for this purpose ; none was to be
had nearer than the Orange River, except from a few Kameel-
doorns, some of which had been sacrificed for making a neat
pulpit, which was the work of a brother-in-law of the Mis-
sionary. Three of the people had cottages; the rest occupied
1840.] CAPE COLONY. 533
mat-huts ; of these there were only thirteen on the sta-
tion ; sometimes there were more than thirty, and about
400 people, and from seventy to 110 children in the school.
The progress made in reading was slow and irregular, in con-
sequence of the moving about of the people. The residence
of J. H. Schmelen among them had been of great use ; and
the London Missionary Society may have great satisfaction
in having cared for these few sheep, in this corner of the wil-
derness, among whom were some of Christ's flock. The land
granted by the Government to this Station was about 128,000
acres. It was of very poor quality, and except at the Mis-
sionary Station, almost destitute of water in dry w'eather. It
might be described as granitic sand, besprinkled with small
bushes. Grass was scarcely to be found upon it, except
near the spring, where it grew among brak-bushes, and after
rain, when it sprang up, in scattered patches on the flat
which extends to the coast. The crops of corn grown on
the mountain were often so thin that they would scarcely be
thought worth reaping in England.
14th. We concluded to visit the fishing party on the
coast, and to avail ourselves of the company of a man named
Girt Kloete, as guide: he was going to the mouth of the Orange
River, where he generally lived, and where he had cattle feed-
ing. — In the evening, I had an opportunity of pointing out to
the people, the importance of being temperate on principle;
they were generally so from necessity, but occasionally, they
made strong honey-beer, and intoxicated themselves; and more
rarely, a trader brought brandy, and dispensed it to them, to
obtain more ready purchase for his goods ; these were then
bought beyond the necessities of the purchasers, to their
great injury. — Among the rocks at this place, there was a con-
siderable variety of shrubs. Several species of Cotyledon were
conspicuous. A Loranthus, with red, tubular flowers, having
five, reflexed, greenish segments, and five stamens, grew
parasitically among the bushes at the foot of a cliff, over
which the water fell in rainy weather, through an opening,
arched by two rocks which had fallen simultaneously from
above. Erythrophila undulata also grew among the drier
granite rocks.
L L 3
534 ZAND FONTEIN. [Ist HIO.
15th. We travelled over an undulating country with moun-
tains of milk-quartz on the right, to Zand Fontein, in the
bed of the Oegst or Komaggas River. Here, at the foot of
some rocks, which scarcely afforded shelter from the scorch-
ing sun, was a small hole of brackish water, much fouled
by horses, thirty-two of which, including foals, were assem-
bled to drink when we arrived. As the quantity of water
was small, and the spring weak, they had to wait one for
another ; we drove them all off, and enlarged the hole, that
our own might drink first, but the poor animals were so
thirsty, that they continually returned. Two went to a short
distance, and scraped holes in the sand with one foot, and
thus obtained water for themselves ; but the holes they
made being small, one draught emptied them, and the horses
then had to wait till more sprung. We could not but admire
the instinct by which these animals had learned to procure
water for themselves in this thirsty land. — While the heat
was great, we rested, tried to shelter ourselves in cavities
among the rocks, and drank coffee as fast as our small ap-
paratus would allow. It consisted of a little copper kettle
and four tins, which packed within the kettle, one inside the
other. A little hole was scraped by the side of the spring,
to clear the water of dirt ; it still tasted as if it had come off
the floor of a stable ; but imperative thirst overcame all diffi-
culties in regard to using it. At this place, there were some
striking species of Mesembryanthemum, and some Euphor-
bias forming bushes of cylindrical, green stems, about as thick
as mould candles; the latter are represented at page 226. The
leaves of some of the former were about nine inches long,
fleshy, and tapering to a point, so that the plants looked
something like small Agaves. Mistletoes were growing on
the Euphorbias ; they were much more succulent than when
growing on woody shrubs or on trees. This, I had before
noticed between Uitenhage and Enon. One of the Mistle-
toes common in Southern Africa, has small, myrtle-like leaves
and red berries ; another is leafless, and has stems resembling
a Salicornia. The bitter Melon, CitruUus amara, was abund-
ant on the sandy ground between Komaggas and this place ;
it was rejected by all animals. We could scarcely avoid
1840.] LITTLE NAMAQUALAND. 535
wishing that it had been its more grateful congener, C. Jace,
the Water-melon.
When the sea-breeze set in, we rode to a place called Bon-
te Koe, Spotted Cow, where water was thrown up, out of a
deep hole, in the bed of the Kowsie River, by means of
vessels made of the Willow of the Orange River. Here a
small party of Hottentots were residing, one of whom was
brought up at Lily Fountain. We rested some time in her
hut, read a chapter with as many of the people as could be
collected, and directed them to the teaching of the Holy
Spirit for guidance in the way of salvation. These people
supplied us with some milk, which was very grateful, the
water being brackish. — We again resumed our journey, when
the moon arose, and passing the Boundary of the Colony,
travelled over sandy ground till ten o'clock, when we off-
saddled for the night, near some hills of micaceous schist,
where there was grass for the horses, but no water. Coffee
was, however, made of some, brought in a calabash from the
Kowsie, and after it, we went to rest, in our karrosses, upon
the sand, thankful for the many mercies conferred upon us.
16th. After a scanty meal of coffee and bread, we rode
briskly about twenty miles, over sandy ground, on which the
fresh traces of the Gemboks' feet were numerous, to Oeg
Grawep, or Footjes Kraal, where there was a hole of good
water, near a solitary mat hut, occupied by Jonas Engelbrecht,
an aged man of Hottentot descent, and his family, who had
charge of some cattle belonging to J. H. Schmelen. Here
we rested, the heat being intense, read to the people, and
spoke to them on the way of salvation. At the conclusion,
J. Engelbrecht said, he could acknowledge that what had been
said was the truth ; for that before any Missionary came into
this part of the country, he was much troubled in mind,
under a feeling that all was not right with him, though he
could hardly say in what : as he kept under these feelings,
he was made watchful and became more peaceful ; but when
he heard that a Missionary was come into the neighbourhood,
he went to hear him, and then he learned more clearly the
way of salvation ; he also learned to read, and brought his
Bible and hymn-book with him into the wilderness. The
536 ROBBEN BAI. [Ist mO.
former, we had noticed suspended in a sheepskin, and having
the corners of the leaves worn off by long and constant use.
The hymn-book was placed inside ; and he pointed out a
comprehensive hymn, which he said included his frequent
prayer. Here simple Christianity appeared in its humblest
garb, but it had been proved by the vicissitudes of many
years; and we were gladdened by the old man's testi-
mony to the value of that teaching, by which, in the days of
his ignorance, he had been led to seek after a better state ;
and which had prepared him to receive the doctrine of redemp-
tion through a crucified Saviour, and had strengthened him to
follow on to know the Lord and to serve him. This testimony
was borne in simplicity, before our attendants and our two at-
tentive guides, Girt Kloete and his brother, who left us here,
and pursued their route toward the mouth of the Orange River,
while we took the track leading between the mountains, to-
ward the coast. — We here partook of the flesh of the Gems-
bok. Oryx capensis ; this animal belongs to the large family
of Antelopes ; it is under 4 feet high at the shoulder, and 6^
feet long ; its horns are 3 feet long, straight and annulated; its
general colour is a vinous buff; it is said to be so dexterous
in using its horns, that an old lion will rarely attack it.
We made slow progress on our way toward the coast, our
horses were in an exhausted condition, and we were obliged
to abandon one on the road, as it was unable to proceed.
The sun had set long before we reached Robben Bai, Bay of
Seals, where we found the fishing party with their four wag-
ons, and received a hearty welcome from J. H. Schmelen
and his wife and her brothers. A meal of fish and coffee
was quickly prepared. Notwithstanding the weather was
foggy, and the wind high, we managed to keep ourselves
warm by means of karrosses, under the shelter of a can-
vass, stretched from the side of one of the wagons, assisted
by a wall of bushes ; here we enjoyed the company of our
devoted Missionary friends, whom, we were glad to find in
health. We were the bearers of several letters for them,
among which was one to J. H. Schmelen, from one of his
brothers, of whom he had not heard for ten years ; also one
from another quarter, informing him of the appointment of
1840.] LITTLE NAMAQUALAND. 537
a young man to assist him, by the Rhenish Missionary Society.
17th. The people were all busy salting the fish which
they had taken, and which were an important addition to their
stock of food, that is often scanty. The chief kind caught
by the net here, is called Harder ; it comes in shoals, but
will not take a bait. More were taken in one day than would
fill the wagons, and than could be salted whilst good. A
square-ended boat, which fitted on one of the wagons, was used
in fishing ; salt was obtained in the bed of an adjacent river,
or among the rocks of the coast ; and the fish were salted in
skins, let into the sand, so as to resemble tan-pits. Water
was obtained here in two places, by digging in the sand, and
it was of pretty good quality. This was a time of feasting
for all but Seberioe, who, like other Bechuanas, had a pre-
judice against fish. The Hottentot women and children from
an adjacent village, were frying and eating fish during a great
part of the day, and they took a large quantity home with
them. The dogs also helped themselves in the day-time,
and the jackals in the night ; and such birds as eat fish
obtained an ample supply. In this bay, which is shut out
from the ocean by a ridge of rocks and a small island. Flam-
ingoes, Pelicans, Shaggs, Geese, Ibises, Penguins, Gulls,
Stints, and other seafowl abounded, and not being very shy,
they formed, along with Porpoises which came within the
rocks, in pursuit of their finny prey, an exceedingly interesting
part of the scene.
The name of the Hottentot village adjacent to Robben Bai,
and of the neighbouring little island, is Aukotowa,or, The place
which took away the old man. This name was given to it, in
consequence of one of the men having been driven out to sea,
and lost, in attempting to reach the island, to which the people
swim, in the same rtianner as those described at page 437, on
logs of wood, which they bring from, the Orange River. For-
merly they killed Seals on the island, and exchanged the
skins for various articles ; but two rapacious Englishmen
came, made a sort of raft, and destroyed as many seals as
loaded two wagons with the skins. Since that time, the seals
have forsaken the place. Whales are occasionally cast up on
the coast, either deprived of their blubber, or having drifted
538 AUKOTOWA. [1st mo.
away when harpooned : these form feasts to the Hottentots,
who often remove to their vicinity, and preserving their flesh
by burying it deep in the sand, Hve principally upon it for
many weeks together. There is another Hottentot village at
the mouth of the Kowsie River, and one at the mouth of the
Orange River. These are the only three inhabited spots on
the desolate coast of the extra-colonial part of Little Nama-
qualand. In the evening, several of the people came from
the village, decently dressed for their circumstances, and as-
sisted in drawing the net. Another large quantity of fish
was captured, including several large Crayfish.
18th. The net was again drawn this morning, but took
nothing. In the afternoon, I walked to the village. At this
time it consisted of only three huts ; but the families occu-
pying them were more numerous. The people were far from
being so fat as I had heard those living on the coast described
to be ; nevertheless, excepting two, they were in good case.
One of the women appeared to be very old, and the number
of children was considerable. They are said to be very harm-
less, and to live in great quiet, having a few cows and goats.
They take fish by means of lines, and barter them in a dried
state, with people in the interior, for tobacco and a few other
articles. One of the men had a gun of inferior quality which
he purchased for forty-five shillings of a trader. The men
wore jackets, trousers, and waistcoats of leather, and had hats
or caps ; the women had sheepskin karrosses, and a sort of
petticoat of leather ; few of them understood Dutch. The
village is considerably above the shore, among sandbanks
which extend far back from the coast, and which, in some
places, are destitute of vegetation. The weather was cool,
and rather foggy. Many flocks of Flamingoes and other
birds were on the wing. The Flamingoes, Phcenicopterus
ruber, fly in two diverging lines, meeting in front, like Wild-
geese ; their figure in flight, is much like a walking-stick im-
perfectly hooked, with a pair of splendid crimson wings ; but
when wading, their appearance is plump, and they resemble
a swan mounted on long, straight legs; their external plumage
is pale, rosy blush.
19th. Some of the people came early from the village.
1840.] LITTLE NAMAQUALAND. 539
and J. H. Schmelen and a man named April, formerly a
slave, and another named Adam, prayed with them. After
breakfast, the company again assembled at the foot of the
sandhill, near the wagon, several using the vertebrae of a
whale as seats. Singing and prayer were succeeded by the
reading of a portion of the twelfth chapter of John, by J. H.
Schmelen ; he stated, that this portion of Scripture had pre-
viously impressed his mind strongly ; and he made some
plain, brief comments, illustrative of the effect of faith in
Christ. G. W. Walker and I followed, beginning from the
same Scripture, William Sneeuwy interpreting. The solid
deportment of the congregation, which amounted to about
twenty persons, was striking. They said of themselves, that
they were blind and dumb concerning spiritual things ; but
there was an open door of utterance in declaring to them
the unsearchable riches of Christ. After dinner, we went to
the village ; most of the men had gone to fish ; they had
not yet learned the privilege of resting on the Sabbath-day ;
the provision of food was with them a daily occupation. Two
of the men, who had remained at home, and some of the
women, came again to the wagons in the evening, when we
commended them to God, and to the grace which cometh by
Jesus Christ. — J. H. Schmelen commended to the people the
example of a man from one of the other villages, who came to
him saying that when he first heard the Gospel preached, it
was only with one ear, but he had held it fast by the tail, and
now he was come to hearken with both ears. The allusion
to holding fast by the tail, was borrowed from swimming
across the Orange River, by means of holding by the tail
of a cow, which is a common practice in this country;
and the life of the man depends on keeping fast hold.
The review of the labours of this day, was accompanied by a
feeling of much sweetness. I felt thankful to be employed
amongst those with whom I had much unity of spirit, in de-
claring to this little group of people sitting in darkness, tlie
light of the Lord, and the riches of his mercy in Jesus Christ.
— At one time, J. H. Schmelen was stationed at a place
called Bethany, in Great Namaqualand, but in consequence
of discord among the people, he removed to Komaggas.
540 LITTLE NAMAQUALAND. [Ist mO.
20th. The oxen of our friends arriving early, and the
wagons being packed, we set out for Oeg Grawep about
noon. As three of our horses were missing, W. Sneeuwy went
after them, and we overtook him with them on the road ;
they had been to seek water at a place which a high tide had
covered, as was proved by their footprints ; they had there-
fore been three days without drinking. When we stopped,
they were so thirsty that they could not eat, we therefore
made a short rest among some bushes of a species of Mesem-
bryanthemum, some of which were 5 feet high, and then
went forward to Oeg Grawep, where there was a difficulty in
preventing their drinking too much. — Up to the time of our
leaving this neighbourhood no tidings had been heard of the
horse we left upon the road, but at the expiration of a week,
he found the water on the sand, near Aukotowa : he continued
to feed in that neighbourhood till the rain fell and grass
grew, and in three months, he was delivered up to J. H.
Schmelen, in very good condition.
The Hottentot family had left Oeg Grawep in consequence
of the calves dying, probably because the cows could get
little but a scanty supply of rigid herbage, called here Stick-
grass, and which is a shrubby, gramineous plant ; we were
therefore the solitary occupants of these sandhills, for several
hours ; and having consented to allow our kind friends to
bring our luggage, we were without food, or suitable clothing
for the night. The breaking of a wagon-pole, from a wheel
sinking into the working of one of the moles of this country,
had occasioned the delay. Another of the wagons had stuck
too fast in the sand to be removed till the oxen should
have had a night's rest. When some of the party arrived,
a little after midnight, all our wants were supplied, and we
partook cheerfully of coffee, fish, and bread, with the addi-
tional relish imparted by a fast from seven in the morning.
CHAPTER XXXI.
Extreme Heat. — Muishond Fontein. — Bechuana and tired horses. — Leeches. —
Uitkyk Fontein. — Tobacco Pipes. — Kok Fontein. — SteinkofF. — Drying Meat.
— Byzondermeid. — Aard "Wolf. — Zwarte Muishond. — -Restriction of Spiritual
Gifts. — Grain Crop. — Food. — Hartebeest Fontein. — Ingris Fontein. — Moun-
tains. — Calabash. — Rozyntjes. — Crossing the Orange River. — Temperature. —
Tamarix orientalis. — Cheta. — Droog Rivier. — Kline Fontein. — Loris Fontein.
— Ticks. — Nisbett Bath.— Elevation of the Country. — Mission-house. — Springs.
— Population. — Korikus. — Ameral, a Chieftain. — Ameral's History. — Supposed
Arm of the Sea. — Wages. — Night in the "Wilderness. — Xammus. — Tobacco
Growers. — Lions. — Giraffes. — Damaras. — Stapelia Gordonii.
1st mo. 21st. Rain fell in the night, but not sufficient to
wet through the karrosses in which we slept. After break-
fasting on crayfish, bread, and coffee, and having our travel-
ling stock of bread replenished, out of the almost exhausted
one of our kind friends, who also supplied us with dried fish
and meat, we took leave of them ; they returned to Komag-
gas, and we proceeded over a series of sandy hills, to an open
flat, where there was grass but no water. At this place we
stopped to let the horses feed. The heat was intense, and
there was no shelter ; we were forcibly reminded of the situa-
tion of Jonah when his gourd withered, but we endeavoured
to get a little sleep, covering our heads from the sun with our
hats. On resuming our journey, two of the horses shoAved
signs of being exhausted, and we were obliged first to leave
one and then the other. The evening proved hazy and dark,
and the remaining horses could only travel slowly : for some
time our guide was uncertain respecting the path, but at
length he discovered that we were upon the right one, which,
about eleven o'clock, brought us to Muishond Fontein, where
an old Hottentot with his wife and children were the only
residents. We stationed ourselves at a little distance from
542 MUISHOND FONTEIN. [Ist mO.
their huts ; the old man collected sticks, made us a fire,
brought us milk, and did all that he could to serve us. We
each drank half a pint of milk, and took a small piece of
bread to allay the present cravings of hunger. When more
victuals were prepared, search was made for Seberioe, who
was supposed to have fallen asleep among the bushes, from
exhaustion, but he was nowhere to be found. On inquiry,
the old Hottentot said, he saw him fasten a " riem " about
his loins : this left little doubt that he had gone back to see
after the exhausted horses, which was a task that we should
have thought very unreasonable to have imposed upon him ;
and he had already been apprised, that, in consequence of
the weak state of the other horses, we should remain over
the morrow at this place.
22nd. About nine o'clock this morning Seberioe made
his appearance with the two tired horses ; one of them was,
however, unable to get up to the little spring at Muishond
Fontein, Mousedog Fountain, till late in the evening. Sebe-
rioe himself was so fatigued and thirsty that he could hardly
speak till he had had some coflfee and some sleep. He had been
travelling, on foot, from the time he left us on the previous
night. He gave as a reason for having gone away without
notice, that he knew he could bring the horses up better in
the night than when the sun was hot ; and he thought that if
he said anything, we should object to his going r he said also,
that he knew he could endure fatigue, having gone for two
days at a time, when driving sheep, without anything but a
little water. The Bechuanas will endure great privation rather
than diminish their capital by killing a sheep or an ox. After
a short rest, he cleared the mud out of the spring, which was
in a narrow, rocky kloof, and seemed little different from
usual. — There were brown leeches in the mud, such as are
troublesome when they get into the mouths of horses, where
they remain and suck the blood. — The old Hottentot lent us
some sticks, such as are used for the frame-work of mat huts,
and assisted us in fixing them into the ground. Over these,
a tarpawling and some karrosses were spread, as a defence
against the sun ; and here we spent the day, making also
some short excursions among the neighbouring, quartzose
1840.] LITTLE NAMAQUALAND. 543
hills. The woman and tAvo children went to work in a little
garden among the hills, in whieh they grew a few CafFer
Melons, &c. carrying water to them from a feeble spring.
The man was busy making heads for tobacco-pipes, out of a*
sort of Serpentine.
23rd. Late last evening and early this morning, the people
brought us milk, and sat some time by our fire. These oppor-
tunities were made use of, to declare to them the riches of the
love of God in Christ Jesus for the salvation of sinners, and to
exhort them to lay hold on the hope set before them in the Gos-
pel. We left two horses under their charge, and ascended the
mountains to Uitkyk Fontein, Look-out Fountain, passing two
or three small springs at a short distance on the way. On the
ascent of the mountain a shrub resembling the Spanish
Broom, Genista juncea, was growing, but it had large, yellow
blossoms, more resembling those of a rose in form. The few
persons who resided at Uitkyk Fontein, received us hospit-
ably in one of their mat huts, and supplied us with milk and
boiled meat : the latter was served up in their usual style,
without bread or salt, or the help of plates. We had also a
religious opportunity with these people, one of whom could
read ; they were acquainted with the Dutch language suffi-
ciently to understand us without an interpreter. In the after-
noon three of them rode with us to Kok Fontein, Cook
Fountain, which, with several other small places, adjacent,
formed the missionary station of Steinkoif. A clear but
cold spring boiling up from the ground gives this place
its name ; the water irrigates a few rather unproductive gar-
dens, and is soon lost again in the sandy ground. Patches of
granite appear in many places on the adjacent plain, which is
sandy, and besprinkled with low bushes and Mesembryanthe-
mums ; some of the latter are of the Ice-plant tribe, but they
are erect and have leaves about five inches long and three
wide. Some of the adjacent mountains are granitic, others
argillaceous, and others of sandstone. The Serpentine rock
from which tobacco-pipes are made, in this part of the
country, is also found in this neighbourhood. Kokerbooms
and shrubby, thick-stemmed Euphorbias are scattered among
the hills, some of which are high and conical. We were
544
KOK FONTEIN.
[1st mo.
kindly received at Kok Fontein by Margaret Wimmer and her
sister, in the absence of their father, who had been for a long
period a labourer in the Gospel under the London Missionary
•Society. Their dwelling, which is represented in the accom-
panying cut, consisted of a house of two rooms, and two mat
Itofe JFountain, lEontion JHlssionarB Station.
huts. There were also at this place a rude cottage belonging
to an absent trader, and seven mat huts belonging to the peo-
ple. Most of the persons connected with this station, lived in
the surrounding country. Several of them came to see us,
and remained late. In this part of Africa, as well as in most
others, it is customary, especially in the hot weather, to sleep
at noon, and to be up early and late.
24th. We had two interesting religious meetings with
the persons remaining here, and a few casually at the place.
The number was but small. During the summer, the herb-
age is so scanty as to render it necessary for the people who
resort hither at other seasons, to go whithersoever they can,
to find pasturage for their cattle. The absence of many, from
this cause, and the prevalence of the measles, had occasioned
the suspension of the infant school, as well as of that for
older children : both of these were under the care of Margaret
Wimmer, an active young woman, who took a general charge,
both in civil and religious affairs, in the absence of her father.
1840.]
LITTLE NAMAQUALAND.
i45
Gert Wegland, who was here called Corporal, was also
active and attentive, and his wife washed our clothes, and
joined the other people in showing us such kindness as was
within their power. The population of SteinkofF may be
taken at about 300. Sometimes there were from 90 to 100
pupils in the school. It is somewhat remarkable, that though
the Hottentot language is generally spoken here, they had no
supply of Testaments or hymn-books in that language, not-
withstanding these had long been in print.
25th. We sent our horses back to Uitkyk, where there
was food for them, wishing them to remain there till our re-
turn from Great Namaqualand; and Gert Wegland engaged
to hire us some more efficient ones. — Our people were em-
ployed in preparing the flesh of two sheep for the journey.
This was effected by cutting it into thin slices, which were
then slightly salted, and dried in the shade, where there was
a free circulation of air. I took a solitary walk in the direc-
tion of Byzondermeid, which is represented in the accom-
panying cut, where there were a few mat huts and the ruins
IBB^ontiermeitJ.
of an old mission house, near a remarkable hill, from which
the place probably takes its name, which signifies. Singular
Maid. I roused an Aard-wolf, Earth Wolf, Proteles Lalandii,
which happened to have chosen the shelter of some bushes,
under the rocks, in preference to its burrow. This animal
resembles a Striped Hyena, but is smaller, and essentially
M M
546 STEINKOFF. [Ist HIO.
different in other respects. I also saw the Ichneumon urina-
tor, known in South Africa by the name of Zwarte Muishond,
Black Housedog, which is about nine inches high, and twenty-
two inches long, exclusive of the tail, which is sixteen inches.
26th. About thirty people, exclusive of children, assem-
bled for public worship. Several of them came from places
at a distance, and were present at a religious meeting last
evening, in which I was enabled to labour with them in the
Gospel, under a sweet feeling of divine influence. To-day
they met in the forenoon, afternoon, and evening, in the house
of the Misssionary, which served also as a chapel. They
were collected by the blowing of a bullock's horn. We had
much service among them, both in reading the Scriptures,
and in preaching the unsearchable riches of Christ. The
Christian's path was shown to be one of holy self-denial,
travelled in by the help and guidance of the Holy Spirit, that
blessed Teacher, which leads out of darkness, into God's mar-
vellous light. Much openness was also felt in prayer, which
I offered up vocally in the Dutch langiiage. Most of our
communications were interpreted into Hottentot. — Hymns
containing concise summaries of christian doctrine, which
these people had committed to memory, were their chief
medium of religious instruction. Bibles and hymn-books
were both very scarce in this part of Namaqualand, in which,
nevertheless, much good had been effected by missionary
labours. But the missionaries were, by previous training, too
much accustomed to look upon themselves as the only per-
sons qualified to exercise ministerial duties ; they therefore
did not sufficiently direct the attention of the people to the
importance of exercising their own gifts for the edification of
their own families, and one of another. This was much the
case, within the range of many other portions of the mission-
field in Southern Africa, but there was a difference in different
places; and every approximation toward true christian liberty
in this respect, was evidently attended by an advancement in
christian strength.
27th. Wheat was grown on some of the hills near this
station ; but as the supply was generally deficient, many of
the people deposited that designed for seed with the missionary.
1840.] LITTLE NAMAQUALAND. 547
whose house was the only one in which it could be safely-
presented. The quantity sown was generally inadequate ;
there was not sufficient care used to keep the horses from it,
and these, in so poor a country', had a powerful temptation to
stray upon the unfenced crops. The general food of the peo-
ple was milk and meat ; but of these the supply was often
scanty. In order to encourage the attendance of public Avor-
ship, the people were often supplied with food while here, by
the missionary, out of what was not an abundance for himself
and his family. The members of his church were but few. —
A delay at this place in waiting for horses, occasioned
us to receive a packet containing letters from several of our
dear friends in England and Van Diemens Land ; they had
been forwarded to us by a messenger from Lily Fountain. —
Having hired eight horses, we resumed our journey as soon
as the intensity of the heat was past ; we were accompanied
by Gert Wegland and two other men. We rode first to Har-
tebeest Fontein, and arrived there in less than hour. Here
were four mat-huts, and some little gardens, by a small
spring of good water. From this place, we rode three hours,
then let the horses browse, and took coffee, made with water
brought in a calabash. After leaving a series of low, rough,
granitic hills, we came upon an open, sandy flat, with grass.
After sunset, a brisk ride for two hours more, brought us to
Ingris, or Henkrees Fontein, where, among hills of granite
and gneis, near the Orange River, but separated from it by a
lofty, rugged ridge, there is a considerable spring, at which
several people were residing. We stationed ourselves close
by the water, under a large rock of white quartz, and wrap-
ping ourselves in our karrosses, went to rest.
28th. While the horses were browsing, we assembled the
people, and gave them much counsel on the importance of re-
membering the omniscience of God, and of becoming ac-
quainted with him, through the enlightening influence of the
Holy Spirit, sent of the Father in the name of his beloved Son.
A striking Dutch hymn on this subject was read, in addi-
tion to a chapter of the New Testament ; and the feeling
of divine influence that attended, was very precious. So
many of the people were but just recovering from the
M M 2
548 GREAT ORANGE RIVER. [1st mO.
measles, that we could only obtain one man in a state
suitable to assist us in crossing the river, if it should prove
flooded, as it usually is at this season of the year. Some of
the mountains in Little Namaqualand are of the separate
constituents of granite. In a cavern of the white quartz, at
Ingris Fountain, there are plates of mica two inches across.
The mountains near the river are of gneis and schist ; they
are steep, rugged, barren, and brown. We passed an isolated
hill, which appeared to be basaltic, and ascended the ridge
next the river, by a deep line of loose sand, and traversed
some plains of granitic sand, with thin grass. Above these,
gneis mountains and hills rose in all directions. Our path
was frequently interrupted by ground overspread with frag-
ments of white quartz. Having reached a wagon-track, we
off-saddled where there was grass, and took coffee. The cala-
bash for water was very difficult to manage on the top of one
of our packs, till J. H. Schmelen gave us a knapsack to put
it in; it was made of a skin with the legs on, and these being
secured to the straps which passed over the pack, made it ride
steadily. When the sun set, the outline of the hills, on which
Kokerboom and a species of Euphorbia were thinly scat-
tered, was very striking. We remounted by starlight, and
rode through a long, narrow pass, to the bank of the river,
at a place where three mat huts were occupied by persons
formerly residing at Pella, where the London Missionary So-
ciety had a station. They now moved from place to place,
on the side of the river, as pasturage for their cattle failed.
Here we took up our lodging under a tree, and had a little
conversation with some of the people.
29th. Continuing our ride along a rough country, having
rugged, brown mountains on the right, and the Great Orange
River thickly margined with trees on the left, we arrived at
a second small cluster of huts, where an old woman kindly
refreshed us wdth sour milk, and gave the people plenty of
Rozyntjes, Little Raisins, the small fruit of an arborescent
Rhus, growing on the bank of the river. She informed us,
that the missionary party had forded the river in safety, a
few days ago, and that it was now " dood ligt, " dead empty.
These were agreeable tidings. We lost no time in securing a
1840.] GREAT NAMAQU ALAND. 549
passage, as the water often rises without any indication of
rain in this part of the country, from the heavy thvinder-
showers which are almost continually falling at this season of
the year, in different parts of the interior, and by which it is
usually flooded during the summer months. On reaching the
Upper Ford, we rode to an island, where the horses grazed,
and we rested under some Doornbooms, while two of our
attendants waded through, to ascertain the depth of the red
waters, which was found not to be so great as to require the
horses to swim. Two of the men assisted us in getting the
horses across the river, and then returned. We took off our
saddles under a Royena, a small tree allied to Ebony, not
affording much shade, in the vicinity of a few rushes, on
which the horses browsed. There were a few Dabby-trees
contiguous, butthey afforded no better protection. The thermo-
meter rose to 112° in the shade, and the heat was very trying;
but the feeling of thankfulness for the mercy extended to us
in this difficult part of our journey, made us think less of the
suffering.
We spent some time in the river, the temperature of which
was about 90°. It was here about a quarter of a mile wide,
and had a rocky bed ; the banks were clothed with Doorn-
boom, Rhus, Royena, &c. In many places, Tamarix orien-
talis, was mixed with the Dabby-tree ; both are confounded
under the name of Abiquas-geelhout, which belongs how-
ever to the latter. The footprints of a Cheta were ob-
served near the river. This animal is said to be common
here, and to take fish, which are often left, even of large size,
in pools among the rocks, on the subsiding of the river. A
few birds of the crane tribe were standing on the rocks. With
these exceptions the country was dreary and desolate. In the
evening, we remounted, and travelled up the wide, sandy bed
of the Droog Rivier, Dry River. There were a few Kameel-
doorns growing in it, and Dabby-trees and other shrubs, par-
ticularly the one like Spanish Broom, noticed after leaving
Muishond Fontein. The bed of the river was hemmed in
with rugged, brown mountains and large granite rocks. One
of the horses soon became faint, and we were obliged to leave
it. W. Sneeuwy and G. W. Walker also became sick from
M M 3
550 NISBETT BATH. [Ist mO.
the heat, but a little water from the calabash revived them.
At the end of three hours, we halted and took coifee, while
our poor horses stood by us fasting; there was nothing
for them to eat, and had they been loose, they would have
gone off in the dark in search of food. Two more hours
brought us to Kleine Fontein, a little spring of brackish
water, smelling of sulphuretted hydrogen, in a branch of
the river, but at a greater elevation. Here, among the peaks
of these granitic mountains, we once more reached a resting-
place, and after another meal, thankfully lay down, by the
side of a pool, about which there was grass for the horses.
30th. Moschettos were troublesome in the night. We
resumed our journey at daybreak ; and taking a footpath over
very rough, rocky ground, among the peaks, to make the
way shorter, we arrived, in a little time, at a more open, level
country; it was sandy, and generally covered with a sprinkling
of grass, but the sharpness of the road had made the feet of
our horses so tender, that we again took to the bed of the river.
In two hours we reached Loris Fontein, a pool of dirty,
brackish, sulphurous water, where some people connected
with the missionary-station at Nisbett Bath were feeding
sheep and goats. There were a few fine Kameeldoorn trees
at this place, and under one of them we oifsaddled, intending
to remain till the cool of the day ; but as the place swarmed
with ticks, some small, and others as large as the thumb-nail,
we soon remounted. We had not, however, proceeded far
before W. Sneeuwy pulled up under a Kameeldoorn, and dis-
mounted, almost faint, saying it was " al te warm,'^ quite too
hot. The calabash was again resorted to ; in a short time he
revived so as to be able again to travel, and in two hours we
were favoured to reach Nisbett Bath, where we met a hearty
welcome from Edward Cook and Joseph Tindall and their
wives, who had had a perilous journey from Lily Fountain,from
scarcity of water, and the exhausted state of their oxen. Se-
veral of the people soon came to greet us ; they belong to
the section of Great Namaquas, called Bondel Zwarts, Black
Bundles. We had also a short interview with a Chief or cap-
tain named Ameral, whose residence was near the Tropic of
Capricorn.
1840.]
GREAT NAMAQUALAND.
551
The Wesleyan Missionary Station of Nisbett Bath, is re-
presented in the accompanying cut. It derives its name from
Isisbctt 13atl;, aiHesIeBan jpKissionari) Station.
a gentleman, formerly resident in India, who contributed
liberally toward the re-establishment of the Mission at this
place, which had long been abandoned, and from a warm and
copious spring which rises among some granite rocks, a few
hundred yards from the residence of the Missionary. The
settlement consisted, at this time, of the dwellings of the
Missionary and Catechist, a chapel, and a few mat-huts.
It is situated upon a plain, so elevated, that the peaks of
mountains, such as appear lofty at the side of the Orange
River, only emerge here, a few hundred feet above the
surface of the plain ; the rivers run dry in a few hours
after rain, and the barometer only rises to about twenty-
six inches. The dwelling of the Missionary was a small
house, made tolerably comfortable ; a portion of its clay
walls were erected by some devoted men named Albricht,
who laboured in Great Namaqualand many years since, under
the auspices of the London Missionary Society. The rooms
were, however, much too small for so hot a climate, and the
building needed a verandah to protect it from the scorching
sun. — It is instructive to observe how cheerfully Missionaries
and their families put up with inconveniences. Long journeys
in wagons, certainly prepare people to appreciate even very
small conveniences; and where their hearts are in their work,
552 NisBETT BATH. [2nd mo.
to be getting forward with this, reconciles much that other-
wise would be felt to be great privation.
Within a short distance of the spring already mentioned,
there were a few others ; one of them was tepid, and like the
warm one, it was pretty fresh ; the others were saline, and
one of them was very salt. They all flowed toward the bed
of the Droog Rivier, and the water of those which reached it
was soon lost in its sand. The moist places near them pro-
duced the common brack-bushes of the country, with Dabby-
trees, Kameeldoorn, &c. The warm spring irrigated a patch
of garden-ground, on which there were five Fig-trees, from
three to five years old, which were remarkably fruitful. In-
dian-corn, potatoes, &C. were also grown here. Few of the
people had yet applied themselves diligently to gardening.
2nd mo. 1st. I ascended one of the peaks; it was of
tumbled rocks, and had much of the general aspect of basalt ;
but the structure of some portions of it verged very closely
upon granite ; the lower rocks were porphyrytic granite,
having quartz veins ; in some places the mica was in large,
thick laminated masses.
2nd. Sometimes the congregations here amounted to nearly
400 people, and the school had 100 pupils. At present, both
were very small, most of the people with their Chief, having
gone to a distance to feed their cattle. The assemblies for
worship to-day were owned by a sense of divine overshadow-
ing, and we were enabled to bear testimony in them to the
mercy of God in Christ Jesus. About forty persons, who
considered this place their home, were members of the church.
In 1839, the Station was visited by a destructive fever; seve-
ral persons died, who showed the precious fruits of Chris-
tianity in their illness and death.
4th. Having concluded to join Edward Cook and Joseph
Tindall in a visit to their out-stations, preparations were made
accordingly. E. Cook provided us with fresh horses and
other necessaries ; and Jan Ortman, a man of piety, sub-
stance, and influence in the country, accompanied the party
as gmde. It was now almost impossible to travel by day, on
account of the heat, the thermometer standing at 103° in the
shade at noon; and as some of the horses were to bring up
1840.] GREAT NAMAQUALAND. 553
from a distance, it was long after sunset before we started.
We had not proceeded far, when the pack-horse took fright
at the rattUng of some water in a calabash : he escaped from
his leader, kicked off his load, and broke the calabash to
pieces. As this occurred in the dark, some time was lost in
recovering the horse, and restoring his burden, on which
another calabash, of smaller dimensions, was placed ; mid-
night was consequently past before we were fairly on the
way, and drowsiness became irresistible to some of the party,
I was incessantly dozing, and having been occupied during
part of the day in gathering figs, the moment sleep gained
the advantage, the fig-tree presented itself to my vision, loaded
with figs of superior magnitude. Thus, struggling between
dreaming and waking, we travelled till the dawn of the day.
5th. When we took off our saddles, and lay down for a
short time to sleep, two pious, elderly women, who had ac-
companied us, fearing the heat, proceeded to the station where
we were to spend the day ; they were on their way to a more
distant station, where one of them had horses and cattle ;
they appeared much at home on horseback. Jan Ortman
watched the horses whilst feeding, lest they should return
home ; after we had rested an hour he called us, and we pro-
ceeded to Korikus or Karekhas, which is also upon the Droog
Rivier, and where a number of people, who had obtained
water by digging in the sand of its bed, were feeding their
cattle. It was very hot when we arrived, but taking refuge
under a Dabby-tree, which scarcely screened us from the sun,
we obtained some sleep. On awaking, we quenched our thirst
with some tea, and had an interesting religious interview with
upwards of 100 persons, among whom were Ameral and his
attendants, who had got thus far on their way home.
Ameral was descended of a Dutch father and a Hottentot,
or slave mother ; when Barnabas Shaw formed the Mis-
sionary-station among the Hottentots of the Kamiesberg,
Ameral became his wagon-driver. Subsequently, being united
with a number of other persons of similar, spurious descent,
he joined J. H. Schmelen at a station called Bethany, nearer
the west coast of Great Namaqualand. When the Station
at Bethany was relinquished, Ameral and his adherents
554 KOBiKus. [2nd mo.
emigrated to the border of the Damara Country, near the
Southern Tropic. Here, being possessed of fire-arms, they
fell into marauding practices, and often robbed the poor
Damaras and other native tribes of their cattle.
On a certain occasion, they had been shooting Rhinoce-
roses, which abound in that part of the country ; the day had
become damp, and their guns were out of order, when a lion
presented itself in a threatening attitude. One gun after
another missed fire, and a brother of Ameral, hoping that
his would go off, went to their wagon, placed himself on one
knee, resting his gun across the disselboom, or pole of the
wagon, and there waited the approach of the ravenous beast ;
his gun missed fire ; the Lion sprang upon him, and seized
him by the back. Ameral seeing him in this condition, sprang
upon the Lion, seizing it by the mane on each side of its
head. The Lion struggled with him, got one of his arms into its
mouth, and bit it, so as to break the elbow-joint ; at this
juncture, it was shot by one of his comrades. The Bondel
Zwarts showed much skill in setting the injured limb ; they
perceived that it would be stiif, and that if set straight, he
would be unable to bring his hand to his mouth; they, there-
fore, set it at such an angle as to enable him to eflfect this
important object.
The brother of Ameral died from the injury he had re-
ceived ; and He who can cause the beasts of the field to con-
tribute to his glory, caused this afflictive event to bring the
question, why they had thus been permitted to be distressed,
before the minds of these men. They came to the conclu-
sion, that it was because they were living so greatly at vari-
ance with that Gospel which they had heard preached ; and
they determined to make a journey to Cape Town, about
1,000 miles distant, to seek a Missionary, who might lead
them into better courses. They set out in 1839, and joined
Edward Cook, who was going to Cape Town, to attend the
Wesleyan District Meeting, which he and the Missionary
from Lily Fountain attended alternately. Edward Cook la-
boured diligently with this party on the road. Ameral took
elephants' tusks to Cape Town, to pay his expenses ; these
he sold for £40, and with the assistance of Edward Cook, to
1840.] GREAT NAMAQUALAND. 555
protect him from imposition, he purchased goods which would
enable him to increase his oxen, and make up for those
he lost upon the journey; he had only nine left on his re-
turn to Nisbett Bath, out of a large number with which he
set out from home. When he reached the Orange River, in
returning, though only the day after E. Cook and J. Tindall
had driven their wagons across it, it was again flooded, not-
withstanding there had been no rain of any consequence in
this part of Africa, and he was obliged to have his wagon and
goods floated over.
The Wesleyan District Meeting granted Edward Cook
leave to visit this Chief, for such Ameral had now become,
at his own station; and in the course of this year, a journey
was undertaken for the purpose. As the information respect-
ing the part of the country visited, is deeply interesting, and
has resulted in the settlement of a station of the Rhenish
Missionaries at Walvisch Bai, Whalefish Bay, upon the west
coast, and another with Jonker Afrikaner, at some distance
into the interior, as well as in the settlement of a Wesleyan
station at Bassonabies, with Ameral and his people ; and has
suggested the possibility of the existence of an arm of the sea,
which " runs far into land, " in that neighbourhood, I shall
introduce some extracts from letters on the subject in Ap-
pendix D.
There seems a possibility that this arm of the sea if it
exists, may be connected with what is called in the map
in Moffat's "Missionary Labours and Scenes in South Africa,"
^' a lake of unknown extent, called Mampoore, from the
roaring of the waves, " In speaking with one of our at-
tendants respecting this lake, he persisted, that there were
ships in it. I had some doubts, however, as to whether
he might not be referring to the ocean on the west coast,
from not thoroughly understanding my questions. But as
the Portuguese are said to carry on a traflic across the coun-
try, between the west coast, northward of the Damara coun-
try, and Mosambique, on the east coast, it seems possible,
that their ships may have reached this point, in facilitating
their traffic.
In the evening of the 5th, the women who came with us
556 WILDERNESS. [2nd mo.
from Nisbett Bath proceeded on their journey, they were ac-
companied by several other people who arrived at Korikus
in the course of the day, on their way to visit their cattle
posts. Some of the Namaquas have considerable flocks of sheep
and goats, and herds of cattle, as well as many dependants,
who render service in proportion to their wages, which are
usually paid in cattle or skins. An ox or cow, or two or three
sheep or goats, with food, is common payment for con-
stant service for a year. — Our party proceeded in an easterly
direction, leaving a distant range of hills to the west, and
having a flat-topped one, probably of clay-slate, accompanied
by two remarkable peaks, to the north, toward the Amse
River. The evening became dark, with occasional gleams of
lightning, so that it was difiicult to determine our course ; we
were now truly in a trackless wilderness ; twice we halted and
set fire to some small brushM^ood, to ascertain the bearing of
the compass, but still feeling perplexed, we stopped under
some tall, leguminous bushes, and took off our saddles. J.
Ortman went off with the horses, and not returning we con-
cluded he had lost us ; trusting, however, that through the
mercy of Him who had hitherto so remarkably cared for us,
our guide would again be found when day dawned, we spread
our karrosses on the sand and went to sleep.
6th. At dawn of day Joseph Tindall, who had a stento-
rian voice, commenced hallooing; he was soon answered by
Jan Ortman, who had been unable to find us in the dark ; he
had therefore knee-haltered the horses, left them to browse,
and lain down to sleep. To persons in England, this kind
of unprotected repose, in a land where wild beasts of various
kinds prowl, might seem strange. But what is to be done
under such circumstances ? The claims of exhausted nature
become irresistible. Through the mercy of Him who de-
clared that the fear and the dread of man should be upon
every beast of the earth, these are not usually disposed to
attack human beings ; and He who stopped the mouths of
lions in former days, still exercises his power over them, and
protects those who put their trust in Him. It is prudent,
however, to use such precautions as circumstances admit,
especially in placing saddles, shoes, and other articles of leather.
1840.] GREAT NAMAQUALAND. 557
in safety, lest hungry jackals should consume them, which
they have sometimes done when sleep has sealed the eyelids,
in places where the wilderness afforded neither tree nor hush,
on which such articles could be placed, out of the reach of
these marauders.
Having partaken of a little bread and some water from the
calabash, we resumed our journey; after crossing a low stony
ridge, we came to Xammus, on the Amse River, where two
or three hundred people, were occupied chiefly in growing
tobacco, which they exchanged for various articles, among
the thin and scattered population of the surrounding country;
they also possessed cattle, sheep, and goats, which throve on
these sandy plains, on which grass was thinly scattered.
Water was good and tolerably plentiful, in little pools at this
angle of the river, v/here it turned round an argillaceous cliff,
and was bordered by luxuriant Doornbooms, and a few other
trees. Sandstone occurred here, and shaly, purple slate in-
tervened between the more compact beds of argillaceous
rock.
We had an interesting religious interview with the peo-
ple, most of whom had at one time or other visited a mis-
sionary institution ; two of them could speak a little Dutch,
and they all seemed much pleased with Edward Cook's pro-
posing to visit them periodically, and occasionally to sojourn
among them. Civilization, in regard to dress, had extended
even to this place; the men universally had adopted the
practice of converting prepared sheep-skins into jackets and
trousers. The ancient Namaqua dress, consisting of an apron
of jackal-skin with a sort of pocket in front, tastefully made
with the fur outside, which is black in the centre and yellow
at the margins, was rarely to be seen, except upon mere boys,
or youths tending cattle. The women wore a kind of petti-
coat and a karross of skins, tanned so as to be very soft, and
of a neat, buff colour. These people seemed more industri-
ous than most we had seen belonging to the Hottentot nation ;
they were watering their little gardens diligently by the hand;
for this purpose they used buckets made of skins, stretched
with a few hoops. — The value of money not yet being under-
stood in Great Namaqualand, E. Cook purchased a kid for a
558 AMSE RIVER. [2nd mo.
common handkerchief; we also obtained a copious supply
of sour milk, for a few buttons.
In the evening we journeyed a few miles down the bushy
bed of the river, along which there were holes, for catching
Zebras, when they came to drink. It was dark when we
arrived at a place, occupied as a cattle station by a few fami-
lies, who had hid themselves, on our aproach fearing we
might be enemies. Jan Ortman greeted them aloud in the
Hottentot language, and some of them soon appeared. After
taking a little food we addressed them on religious subjects.
From what Edward Cook could gather, he concluded that
only one of them had heard the Gospel message before, and
that this was the first time the "glad tidings of great joy"
had reached the others.
7th. We resumed our journey early, and crossed some
stony hills to one of the little branches of the Amse River,
in this branch there were two small pools of water, where
a vein of basalt interrupted the argillaceous and sandstone
formations, and where there were traces of lime resembling
that of the upper bed about Griqua Town. One of the pools
which was nearly dried up, was full of frogs. There were four
huts of tobacco-growers at this place. Tobacco must be highly
valued in this part of the country, to make such little gardens
as some of the people have, worth cultivating. Both Nicotiana
Tabacum and N. rustica are universally grown ; and as both
are natives of America, they must have been obtained through
the medium of Europeans. After our mid-day meal we had
a religious interview with the people. It was in some measure
conversational. With such an interpreter as Jan Ortman both
conversation and other communication was easy, and the peo-
ple were attentive. — There were a few small trees among the
rocks of this periodical rivulet, nevertheless it was difficult to
find an effectual shelter from the scorching sun. When the
heat abated we proceeded on our journey, crossing some
stony hills, among which there were some remarkably broad-
leaved Aloes; we then came upon some extensive flats, sandy
in some places, stony in others, and thinly besprinkled with
grass. On these Springboks were numerous. In fleeing from
us, a herd turned suddenly, as they approached a hollow.
1840.] GREAT NAMAQUALAND. 559
over which numerous Vultures were soaring. Our guide
said that this probably resulted from the presence of a lion,
which had killed one of their number. Lions are not numer-
ous in this part of Great Namaqualand ; three had been killed
at Nisbett within six years. There were Giraffes on the hills
to our left, but we did not see any. We passed under the
point of a range of argillaceous mountains, which continue in
a south-easterly direction to the great fall of the Orange
River; on these, and in all similar situations in this part of
the country, the Kokerboom is scattered. In the flats there
were the traces of the wheels of a wagon, which was supposed
to have gone this way a few years before. Near the point of
the mountain, nine noble ostriches started up and made away
from us with great speed. We met about a dozen people
going on a visit to their friends in the direction in which
we had come : most of them were armed with guns, and they
had with them some pack oxen and a few cows. — Among
the granitic hills we came again upon the Amse River ; and
after refreshing ourselves and our cattle at a pool, where
weariness would have induced us willingly to remain all
night, we pursued our way considerably further, being
sometimes almost lost in the dark ; at length we stopped
among the high bushes on the river^s bank. Good water
was easily obtained by scraping holes in the sand of the
river's bed ; in this way some of our horses also soon sup-
plied themselves. Zebras are said constantly to resort to
this method, in this country. The prints of their feet
were numerous ; but travelling so much in the night, we did
not see many of the wild animals. Among the rocks behind
the place where we fixed our quarters for the night, and
in several places near the lower drift of the Amse River, Sta-
pelia Gordonii was growing in considerable tufts. In this
neighbourhood there was also a small species of Cucumis,
Cucumber, the fruit of which was slightly bitter, but it was
eaten in small quantities by the children. — Having kindled a
good fire, we enjoyed our repast and rest as much as we could
have done with the accommodations of civilized life.
CHAPTER XXXII.
The Amse River. — The Social Phileterus. — Afrikaners Kraal. — Reception. —
Meeting of Jan Ortman and Titus Afrikaner.— History of the Afrikaner Fa-
mily. — Jonker Afrikaner. — Marauders. — David Afrikaner. — Communication
with tlae "Wesleyan Missionaries. — Conversion of D. Afrikaner. — Congrega-
tions. — Return to Nisbett Bath. — Effects of Interference with the Bechuana
Mission. — Warm Springs.- — -Abraham Christian. — Government Gratuity. — In-
toxication. — Dances. — Wages. — Paschal Supper. — Departure from Nisbett
Bath. — The Zebra. — Swimming across the Orange River. — Visit to the Sick.
— Change in the Animal Frame in Hot Climates. — Journey to Kok Fontein.
— Gezelskops. — Brak Rivier.— M. Wimmer. — Providential Provision. — Death
ofM. Wimmer. — Journey to Lily Fountain. — Koper Bergen. — Ores of Metals.
2nd mo. 8th. The Amse River is wide, and margined by lofty
Doornbooms, but it might be passed in the night, in a wagon,
unnoticed, as, except in times of rain, the water filters under
its sandy bed, and only appears in a few places among the
rocks. On arriving at the lower drift or ford, we took off our
saddles, and rested till the noontide heat was past. After
crossing the river, we passed among some remarkable hills of
tumbled basalt, on which Baboons were very numerous ; we
then came upon an extensive plain, lying between the argil-
laceous mountains before mentioned, and the Orange River.
On this flat there were marks as if a torrent had swept over
its surface ; this was the effect of the rain, which falls at
times with great violence; it had caused an annual grass, of
good quality, to spring abundantly in the sandy places. Where
the ground was strong, the vegetation consisted of small
bushes, among which a Bryony was climbing, which had a
beautiful, rose-coloured fruit, the size of a gooseberry, and an
esculent root. Here were also a few scattered Kameeldoorns,
loaded with the nests of the Social Phileterus, Philetarus
lepidus, the bird which has sometimes been called the Social
1840.] GREAT NAMAQUALAND. 561
Grosbeak; these congregated nests were built under a common
thatch, which resembled portions of the top of a haystack,
fixed among the branches of the trees; the birds entered their
separate apartments from the under side. These nests are
represented in the Kameeldoorn at page 293. Another bird,
in a different part of this country, makes nests resembling
small retorts, suspended by the bulbs from the extremities of
the twigs; and the bird enters by the necks of these remarkable
dwellings. The species of Plocens make pendant, globular
nests.
After riding about twenty-five miles from the Amse River,
we arrived, long after dark, at Afrikaners Kraal, or Jeru-
salem, as it was often called in the days when it was a station
of the London Missionary Society. At this place, which is re-
presented in the annexed etching, there were a considerable
number of mat huts scattered under the shade of large Ro-
zyntje Booms, which are trees such as are seldom seen in
this part of South Africa, except on the banks of the Orange
River. Out of these huts issued joyful voices, on hearing that
Edward Cook had arrived with some of his friends; and these
voices were speedily followed by cheerful brown-faced peo-
ple. David Afrikaner, now the patriarchal pastor of the
place, accompanied by a group of men and children, led us
to a large tree, at the upper end of the village, under the
wide-spreading arms of which, we took up our quarters, and
received a universal greeting. Some of the women soon
fixed sticks into the ground, and enclosed the back and sides
of the space we occupied, with a long mat. Here we were
supplied with plenty of milk, and had the company of a
large number of the people to a late hour ; here also a scene
of no common kind or interest, took place, in the meeting of
Jan Ortman and Titus Afrikaner, who had not seen each
other since, many years ago, they led forth the warriors of
their respective tribes in battle against each other ; and the
Bondel Zwarts, under Jan Ortman, overcame the previously
victorious Afrikaners, under Titus Afrikaner. In the in-
terval, they had both become Christians, and Afrikaners
Kraal being now an out-station of the Nisbett Mission, both
were now members of the same church. For a moment, they
N N
562 AFRIKANERS KRAAL. [2nd mO.
looked upon each other, as if with distrust, but they neverthe-
less extended their hands, and these being cordially received,
the barrier raised by former heart-burnings vanished like a
shadow, and they sat down together under the tree, and con-
versed on that mercy which had been shewn to them as un-
worthy sinners, and which had opened the fountain of love
in their hearts ; and by which, they now found themselves
not only members of the same christian church, but brothers
in Christ, the Prince of Peace.
I will here introduce a brief history of the people of the
Afrikaner family, and of those who became associated with
them, in continuation of that given by John Campbell, in
his Life of Afrikaner, published by the Religious Tract So-
ciety. After the death of Christian Afrikaner, the chieftain-
ship devolved upon his son, Jonker, under whom predatory
incursions against the neighbouring tribes were recommenced.
Several battles were fought, in which the Afrikaners came off
victorious, and carried away much cattle, previous to the one
before noticed, in which they were defeated by the Bondel
Zwarts, under Jan Ortman. After this event, fearing to con-
tinue in the vicinity of their conquerors, Jonker Afrikaner
took the people far away in a north-easterly direction,
near to the country of the Damaras, one section of whom
being possessed of much cattle, are termed Beast or Cattle
Damaras; and these, the Afrikaners began to plunder.
As people generally frame some sort of an excuse for
their evil deeds, in order, if possible, to allay the uneasiness
of their own consciences, produced by the condemnation of
God's Spirit, so these people pleaded, that those they at-
tacked and plundered, would have done the like to them, if
opportunity had presented. But Christian Afrikaner did not
find it so, when he walked in the fear of God. If any whom
he had provoked in the days of his impenitence, afterwards
retaliated upon him, he had learnt the peaceable lesson of his
Saviour, if smitten on the one cheek, to turn the other to the
smiter ; or if deprived of his coat, to allow his cloak to be
taken also, rather than to return evil for evil. Jonker Afri-
kaner and many of his people, having cast the fear of God
behind them, proceeded from bad to worse; often, when they
1840.] GREAT NAMAQUALAND. 563
seized an opportunity of drawing off the cattle of the Dama-
ras, they were followed by the owners, who expostulated
against such robbery, by which they and their famihes were
deprived of the means of subsistence ; and to get rid of their
entreaties, and their attempts to turn back their own cattle,
the Afrikaners knocked out their brains, or in other ways,
cruelly murdered them: sometimes the children of the Dama-
ras were also carried off as slaves. Several of these were at
this time living among the people of Great Namaqualand.
Other tribes of the inhabitants of Great Namaqualand,
also treated the Cattle Damaras in the same manner, until
they began to be more wary ; and lately, when some of their
cattle were taken away, instead of pleading with the robbers,
they went quietly and unperceived before them ; and when
the people stopped at night, the Damaras came out of their
ambush, destroyed most of them, and recovered their own
cattle. The report of the destruction of the Namaquas by the
Damaras soon spread ; and we heard of it far southward, in
Little Namaqualand, as a great outrage committed by the
wicked Damaras ! Three of the brothers of Christian Afri-
kaner were said to have received the Gospel during his life-
time. One of these fell away and joined the other evil-doers;
another was shot by the Bondel Zwarts, when they attacked
Afrikaners Kraal ; but David Afrikaner, the third, remained
faithful to his God ; and he was not the only one who had
not received the grace of God in vain.
There was a little company who mourned with him over
the wickedness of their brethren. These generally contrived
to live apart from the rest ; and to these David continued to
read the Holy Scriptures, and with them he joined in prayer.
David and his adherents long hoped that things might change
for the better, but they were disappointed ; for Jonker had
neglected the counsel of his dying father, and had returned to
the evil ways which he had forsaken. Expostulation appeared
to be in vain. The little band that feared the Lord, dreaded
his judgments, which they expected would surely fall upon
the ungodly ; they had marked the hand of retributive jus-
tice, which has often been signally made manifest among the
tribes of Southern Africa, executing vengeance upon the
N N 2
564 AFRIKANERS KRAAL. [2nd mO.
oppressors ; they therefore determined secretly to depart, and
leave the evil-doers, and to return to the country from whence
they had been taken. Their intention became known to Da-
vid's brother, Titus, who had been a man of war, but had
become enfeebled by age, and partially blind ; and he had
the good sense to perceive that he should be more secure
among the good, than among the evil ; he therefore also fled
with David and his companions ; and returned with them to
Jerusalem, or Afrikaners Kraal.
On returning thither, intelligence was received, that a Mis-
sionary had once more come to reside at Nisbett Bath ; the
Wesleyans had then, lately occupied this long vacant station;
and these people, having a lively remembrance of the blessing
that missionary labour was to them, in former days, desired
greatly to partake of the same ; but a difficulty presented to
their communicating with the Missionary ; he was residing
among the Bondel Zwarts, who had conquered them, after
having been many times vanquished ; and it was a question,
whether a messenger would be received by them in peace.
There was a possibility of conveying a letter, through the
medium of the people on the other side of the Orange River,
but none of the company could write : David Afrikaner had
however learned to read writing, and he had in his possession
a letter which had been received many years previously from
a Boor or farmer, in the Colony ; he therefore determined to
teach himself to write, and by persevering application, he
succeeded, so that the letter which he at length sent, begging
for missionary assistance, was quite legible. An answer was
returned, informing him, that the Bondel Zwarts had received
the Gospel, that he had nothing to fear from them, and in-
viting him to visit the Bath. This invitation he accepted,
and his visit resulted in an arrangement for the Missionary
to visit Afrikaners Kraal once a month. Zeal in promoting
the salvation of men, under the constraining influence of the
love of Christ, overcame the difficulty of travelling seventy
miles each way, on fifty of which there was no water.
On the Missionary becoming more fully acquainted with
David Afrikaner, he became satisfied that he was the person
best qualified to impart religious instruction at the place, and
1840.] GREAT NAMAQUALAND. 565
to teach the children to read the Scriptures in Dutch ; and
as David and his people were all very poor, he placed under
his care a few cows and sheep, in order that on his monthly-
visits, he might have a supply of milk and meat ; the milk in
the mean time, with some of the increase, was David's wages
for taking care of the stock ; and as his time was pretty fully
occupied with the school, which he held under one of the
large trees of the village, he was allowed the small salary of
forty rixdollars, or £3 a year, toward his maintenance.
Under these circumstances, there was a revival of religious
life among this little band. David himself felt quickened in
his love to God ; and Titus, being removed from his evil as-
sociates, began to listen to the warning and invitation to sin-
ners ; he bowed under the convictions of the Holy Spirit,
confessed his sins, went to his garden, pulled up the Dakka,
which he formerly smoked, and stamped its seed into the
salt ground, where he knew it would not vegetate ; he then
returned to his hut, brought out the vessel in which honey-
beer was made, and broke it ; thus bringing forth fruits meet
for repentance ; for both these intoxicating articles had been
snares to him. Notwithstanding he had been a hard-hearted
man, the sense of the love of God, and of his mercy in Christ
Jesus, so overcame him, that he could not refrain himself,
but wept aloud. His emotion was so great, that when he
retired to pray, he sought a distant place among the rocks ;
but even from thence he might be heard weeping before the
Lord, who had so contrited him, that he said, that not-
withstanding his heart was as the heart of a man in former
days, it was now as the heart of a woman. For in such sim-
ple terms, these people are wont to express themselves.
The conversion of Titus gave the people great joy; but the
conduct of another person, of whom they had hoped better
things, caused them sorrow : but in this matter, they proved
themselves clear, and showed forth the fruits of righteous-
ness, to the glory of the Gospel of God. A young man
who had shewn some indications of having become awakened
to a sense of the importance of eternal things, and who had
gone into the country to sell Bambouses, which are a sort of
jars made of willow-wood, saw a flock of sheep on his journey
N N 3
566 AFRIKANERS KRAAL. [2nd mO.
in an unprotected state, and drove them away ; he had not,
however, escaped unobserved; for tidings quickly reached his
relations, of this grievous relapse into evil courses ; and they
immediately despatched some young men to circumvent him,
before he should get back to the Orange River, where he
might have concealed his theft, by mixing the sheep with
others. On seeing the young men, he forsook the sheep and
fled ; and they were driven to Afrikaners Kraal ; from whence
a messenger was sent to the owners, requesting them to come
for the sheep. But as, in this part of the world, people often
live in much suspicion and fear of each other, the owners
durst not come, fearing some evil was designed against them;
two young men were therefore dejDuted to take the sheep
back to them, that the kraal might stand clear of all partici-
pation in this dishonesty.
The Namaqua Hottentots who have become Christians,
are careful not to dishonour the name of Christ, in cases of
this sort. Those belonging Nisbett Bath and Afrikaners
Kraal, as well as those under Ameral, set their faces against
purchasing cattle that had been taken from the Damaras.
Afrikaners Kraal was at this time under the joint govern-
ment of David Afrikaner and Jantje Vander Byl, who were
elected to take this charge, in which they were assisted by a
council of five others. By unanimous agreement, the prin-
ciples of the Gospel were to be those on which they were to
determine the cases claiming their intervention. The Afri-
kaners had also a station a few miles from Afrikaners Kraal,
called Blyde Verwacht, Cheerful Expectation.
The people were generally poor, and sometimes pinched
for food. Occasionally, Titus Afrikaner, though nearly blind,
shot a hippopotamus in the river, which was about twelve
miles distant, by which their provision was increased ; some-
times they took game, and sometimes they collected locusts
for food. These insects occasionally visited the country in
vast swarms, and eat up every green thing.
I observed on David Afrikaners clothes, buttons of neat
appearance, of his own manufacture, both from bone and
metal ; the principal instrument used in making them was a
file. This good old man was of retiring, amiable character, but
1840.] GREAT NAMAQUALAND. 567
regular and firm in his duty ; and the people under his charge
were in good order. — Jonker Afrikaner subsequently forsook
his evil courses, and settled down with one of the Rhenish
Missionaries, at a place east of Walvisch Bay, within the
Tropic of Capricorn. See Appendix D.
9th. In the forenoon, on the blowing of a cow^s horn, a
congregation, amounting to about 200 persons, assembled
under a tree, adjacent to the one appropriated to our use ;
some of them brought stools to sit upon ; the rest sat upon
the ground. The opportunity was chiefly given over to my
companion and myself. I addressed them through the me-
dium of Jan Ortman, and G. W. Walker engaged in prayer ;
David Afrikaner interpreted his petitions for the edification
of the audience. In the afternoon, Edward Cook and Joseph
Tindall met the members of the church, and a few individuals
who were probationers, in two classes, and catechised and
admonished them, according to the usual practice of the Wes-
leyans ; G. W. Walker also extended some counsel to a por-
tion of them. Several of the people spoke of their state with
much emotion, as well as with great simplicity. One woman
said, she had left her friends and come here for instruction,
because she could no longer remain content without the know-
ledge of a Saviour ; others were rejoicing in a sense of the
Redeemer's love ; and others seeking a further experience of
heavenly things. The number of members of the Wesleyan
church here was, at this time, fifty-six. In the evening,
they met under our tree, and were addressed by E. Cook and
J. Tindall. A comforting sense of divine overshadowing was
felt in some parts of these several opportunities, particularly
on first assembling. — The Wesleyans had visited this place
about a year and a half, and a signal blessing had evidently
attended their labours.
10th. Toward the falls of the Orange River, peaked gra-
nitic hills are numerous ; among them are interspersed some
which are perfectly black ; a range of long, flat-topped argil-
laceous mountains meets the granite at the falls. The vege-
tation of the country is very thin. — Among the rocks of Afri-
kaners Kraal, there were a large white-flowered Martynia, a
pretty Hibiscus^ with yellow, purple-eyed blossom, and many
568 NisBETT BATH. [2nd mo.
other striking plants. — Two of our horses having strayed, we
were unable to set out for Nisbett Bath till four o'clock.
Much of the day was spent in reclining under the trees, in
consequence of the oppressive heat, and with a view of dis-
pensing with sleep during the night, which must be chiefly
devoted to riding. — Leaving Jan Ortman, who was out after
the horses, to follow with some of the people, Edward Cook,
Joseph Tindall, G. W. Walker, and myseKset out; and trust-
ing to Edward Cook's knowledge of the country, we made
directly for a point of the flat-topped mountains abutting upon
the Amse River, near the drift, deviating a little in some places
to avoid large patches of land covered with stones. We reached
the river soon after sunset, rested an hour and a half, took
tea, and then remounted. We then passed up a branch of
the river, bordered with Kameeldoorns, and among some
small hills, known to E. Cook, and over a second branch of
the river, and sighting a low hill on the left, before the moon
set, we shaped our course by the stars, till the first dawn of
day.
11th. We rested an hour, and took tea made of water
brought from the river. On daylight appearing, our position
proved favourable ; the granitic peaks toward the Orange
River were on the southern horizon ; the hills of Loris Fon-
tein, to the west, and a remarkable, black, isolated hill, to the
north-west. With these landmarks we pursued our course
with increased confidence, and at nine o'clock in the morn-
ing, we were favoured to arrive again in safety at Nisbett Bath,
thankful to our good Lord and Master, who condescended
to guide us in the right direction, often when we were very
doubtful of the exact point in which certain stars set. A
hearty greeting awaited our arrival, and after a comfortable
breakfast, we retired to rest, and slept most of the day. Not
far from Nisbett, some copper ore was lying among the stones
on the surface of the ground ; it is evidently plentiful in this
part of Africa.
12th. The day was cloudy; the thermometer 70° to 84°.—
In reflecting upon the events which occurred in Great Nama-
qualand, after the last Missionary of the London Missionary
Society was withdrawn from it, and particularly, on the return
1840.] GREAT NAMAQUALAND. 569
of a section of the Afrikaners to a marauding life, and on the
hostilities, attended by robbery and murder, carried on by
them and others against the Cattle Damaras, there is ground
to regret the interference of the Colonial Government with
the Bechuana mission at Lattakoo, which was not within the
British dominions : by this interference, a valuable Mission-
ary was removed from thence, at a time when his place could
only be supplied by the Missionary from Great Namaqua-
land. It is a serious thing to abandon a field of labour
among a people who have but recently received Christianity ;
and who, even if they stand their ground, must, from the
constitution of human nature, have to contend against temp-
tations to relapse into the old, sinful habits of their youth.
Against these habits, they will continually need admonition
and watchful care, lest they fail of keeping under the
influence of the grace of God.
13th. The warm spring at Nisbett Bath discharges a con-
siderable quantity of gas; its temperature is 102° to 105°,
another contiguous is 92° and a third 71°. That at Afrika-
ners Kraal is tepid, probably about 80°. There is another
on the south side of the Orange River, not far from Pella,
which is said to be warm. — Abraham Christian, the Captain
of the Bondel Zwarts, arrived here to-day, on horseback, and
his wife and family in a wagon ; his visit was designed to be
only temporary, for he had not brought his house ! Several
other people also arrived. The Captain received an annual
gratuity of £"]. \0s. from the Colonial Government, as an in-
ducement to exertion in preventing thieving, and in preserving
the peace of the Frontier. Can there be any doubt but that a
similar plan might be advantageously adopted on the Caffer
Frontier ? Though there is great need there, of operative
motives being introduced, yet httle but the efi'ects of force
and fear have been tried.
14th. In the evening I spoke to the people, on the state
in which we had found the native tribes of South Africa,
on the blessings which the Gospel had brought to those who
had received it, and on the advantages of abstinence from
intoxication. Honey beer is the only intoxicating Hquor
made in Great Namaqualand ; but the people also intoxicate
570 NisBETT BATH. [2nd mo.
themselves by smoking Dakka. The Christian converts
'5 abandon these things, as well as the dances, which are of two
kinds ; one is called the Pot Dance ; in it a sheep is killed,
and the people dance around the pot while it is cooking ; the
other is the Fiddle Dance ; in this they dance to the sound
of the fiddle, either of their own or of Bushman manufacture,
or procured from the Colony. In both cases the diversion is
kept up to. a late hour, and is generally accompanied by griev-
ous immoralities. These dances are forbidden here by law,
but lately, some of the unruly members of the community
transgressed in this respect ; a dangerous quarrel resulted ;
and some of the members of the Church were drawn into the
snare. The subject was to be officially investigated, and a
civil penalty imposed upon the ringleaders.
15th. Two men were engaged, for a shirt each, to bring
us across the Orange River, which is from 30 to 40 miles
from Nisbett Bath ; the men who lent them horses were to
be rewarded with a brass tinder-box, each ; but for this they
did not ask.
16th. Opportunity was kindly offered by our friends, for my
companion and myself to join in the Gospel labours of the day,
so as to discharge a debt of love to our fellow heirs of that
glorious inheritance, which Christ died to purchase for us.
David Afrikaner, who, Avith Jantje Vander Byl, followed us
from Jerusalem on oxback, and arrived here the next day,
was interpreter on this occasion ; he was quick and hearty in
this office. This was the day of the celebration of the rite
called The Lord^s Supper ; it was made a kind of ratifica-
tion of church fellowship, and the parties who were engaged
in the late pot-dance were excluded from it ; they were pre-
viously admonished, and affectionately exhorted by Edward
Cook, in the assembled congregation. The members in unity
remained to partake together of this commemorative commu-
nion, as they esteem it, after the general assembly for worship
separated. We also withdrew, not wishing to give oflfence
by remaining and not joining in the ceremony. We did not
doubt, that many used it in the sincere belief, that, in so
doing, they were obeying a commandment of their divine Lord
and Master; but our views respecting it remained unchanged ;
1840.] GREAT NAMAQUALAND. 571
both in regard to its comporting with the typical dispensation
of the Law, rather than with the spiritual dispensation of the
Gospel, and in the conviction, that the commands of our
Saviour to his disciples, generally supposed to apply to it, in
connexion with his future Church, regarded their conduct, as
Jews, among their own nation, when participating in the
Passover ; this was one of the institutions of the Law, which
was to them, even in its types and shadows, as well as in its
denunciations, a schoolmaster to bring them unto Christ, of
whose atoning death, the disciples were to show forth the
Passover to be a type, as their Lord showed it to be, to them,
on that occasion.
17th. The Captain, Abraham Christian, returned to his
cattle station, along -v^-ith his M'ife and family and several
others. Da"\ad Afrikaner, Jantje Vander Byl, and their com-
panions, also set out for Jerusalem. D. Afrikaner had with
him a pack-ox to convey the various articles into which his
little gratuity had been converted by Edward Cook, when in
Cape Town. By this act of kindness, the good man^s small
means were materially increased. — Traders have rarely ^^sited
this country of latter years, not having considered themselves
safe ; and until the return of missionaries into the land, they
would have been in great danger ; for a system of mutual
robbery and murder so far prevailed, that even those of the
Afrikaners who retained their christian principles, and conse-
quently could not make reprisals, were reduced to great
poverty. — We took leave of Edward and Mary Cook, who
accompanied us a few miles, and of Joseph Tindall and his
wife, and proceeded to Loris Fontein, where we made a short
halt ; we then went on to Kleine Fontein, taking the bed of
the river, which we had learned to prefer to the rocky moun-
tains, notwithstanding it lengthened the journey. Here we
took coffee and let the horses drink, while midnight stole
upon us, and consequent drowsiness ; this it was needful to
repel, and again saddling our horses, we proceeded, under a
feehng of thankfulness to the Most High, who had not only
preserved and helped us hitherto, but had now permitted us
peaceably to turn our faces toward Cape Town. Tlie bed of
the river was encrusted with salt, in some places, and in others
572 ORANGE RIVER. [2nd mo.
a little salt water was running. The Mountain Zebra, Equus
Zebra, called Wilde Ezel or Wild Ass, is abundant here ; its
foot-prints were numerous in the sand ; for even at this salt
water " the Wild Asses quench their thirst."
18th. Having reached a point at which the rain that fell
about a month previous, had caused some grass to spring, we
ofFsaddled at two o^clock in the morning, knee-haltered the
horses, and lay down and slept under a bush, till dawn of
day; we then resumed our journey, and reached the Orange
River about nine o'clock. In a corner of the bed of the
Droog Rivier, under the shelter of some high rocks, there
were a few trees of cypress-like figure, probably of the genus
Pachylepis. On arriving at the Orange River, we stationed
ourselves on its brink, under a thick Doornboom, which
afforded good shelter from the sun ; the horses were driven
to the hills, where there was grass, and our swimmers com-
menced forming a float: they were disappointed in not find-
ing swimming blocks ready at the place ; and not having pro-
vided themselves with a hatchet, they had to search the bank
of the river for pieces of drift-wood of the right size, which is
about ten feet long and a foot and a half round. Three pieces
of willow being found, pegs about a foot long were driven into
cracks in them, by means of a stone, and these, projecting
about eight inches, served to hold by; they were a little above
the middle of the block. Two of the blocks were lashed
together, by means of two cross pieces at the upper end, of
four feet long ; some loose cross pieces were laid betM^een
these, and others were laid over them ; over these a quantity
of dry rashes was placed, upon which the luggage was fast-
ened. Only a small quantity could be carried over the river
at a time, and except that which was secured in a Mackin-
tosh tarpawling, it was saturated with water. The other log
was used in conveying small parcels.
The floats are usually secured by means of strips of Doorn-
boom bark, but some of our cordage was preferred, being
much stronger. After two loads of goods had been conveyed,
the loose materials were removed, and we were successively
transferred across. The river was about a quarter of a mile
wide, and the stream so rapid, that the drifting was fully as
1840.] LITTLE NAMAQUALAND. 57?
much more ; but by landing at the point of a rocky island,
and dragging the raft up the river, at the back of it, a second
departure was made, and a good landing effected. The water
being warm, it was the most pleasant to be up to the neck; ex-
posure in a wet shirt was cold, and the people were not
willing that we should be without our clothes, lest we should
let go, and they should have difficulty in catching hold of
us. To cross, was half-an-hour's hard work for the men each
time ; one of them held to the pin of each block, and pro-
pelled it, while the person to be transported, held on between
them, by one of the cross pieces. At each time of landing,
they rested about an hour, warming themselves at a fire, and
drinking tea or coffee. It was necessary to be very yielding
to the rocks over which the water drove us, but accommoda-
ting ourselves to them, we received no injury. Notwith-
standing the warmth of the water, I suffered temporarily from
cramp ; but on landing we made ourselves comfortable on a
sandbank, under some Dabby and Doornboom-trees ; the
people returned to the other side, and we slept very com-
fortably, undisturbed by Chetas, or other marauders.
19th. About nine o'clock, Aree, one of our swimmers,
brought the kettle and tin cups, which enabled us to satiate
the thirst, which water, not warmed, scarcely quenched. When
all the luggage was over, the horses were driven into the
water ; they landed on the island, and rested a short time,
and then were driven a second time into the water, and came
to the shore. It was a pretty sight; they seemed to under-
stand the nature of their voyage, and followed each other in
a regular line, far outstripping the swimmers. Though the
water was so deep as to require the horses to swim, the river
was far from being so full as it often is at this season of the
year. The people say, that when the water is red, it soon
falls, when brown, it remains longer full, but when nearly
clear, the flood continues longest. The red water, no doubt,
comes off the karroo country, drained by the Karroo Fish
River ; the brown, from that drained by the Vaal River ;
and the clearer waters, from the Caledon and other branches
of the Nu Gariep. The people crossed eight times, each way,
with the raft, and twice with the single block or wooden horse.
574 ORANGE RIVER. [2nd mo.
They claimed from our men similar payment to that which we
had agreed for, for ourselves ; at this, we were amused, as
William Sneeuwy had done as much in swimming as either of
them ; however, we willingly allowed them as much in value.
Being desirous to return as light as possible, we presented
them also with such clothing as we could spare ; some of
which was much worn, but still valuable to them. Having
parted from these helpers, we re-saddled our horses, and pro-
ceeded to a kraal, where we had a religious opportunity with
the people, in a mat-hut. The hour was late, and many of
them were ill of the measles. A good old woman, to whom
our minds were attracted when here before, was nursing them,
in one hut. This was so small, that when our interpreter
was inside, it was quite full ; I therefore stood outside, and
spoke to him through a hole in the matting, above the en-
trance, and he communicated what I said to the company
within, who received our visit thankfully. As there was no
grass remaining here, we proceeded further, in hope of finding
some, but were disappointed ; we ofFsaddled near a single
hut, and let the horses go, when knee-haltered, to shift for
themselves.
20th. The place where we stopped was a sandy flat, be-
tween the mountains and the river ; all the grass was con-
sumed, except some of the bushy, ligneous variety, called
Stick-grass, and this was closely cropped ; the horses conse-
quently strayed far to search for food, but they found none ;
they also got squandered, so that it was near sunset before
they were all brought up. We had some conversation with
the father of the solitary family residing here, whom we en-
deavoured to direct to the teaching of the divine Spirit, in
the hope that he might come thereby to partake of the salva-
tion offered to mankind through Jesus Christ. The man
could speak a little Dutch; he informed us that Kedo
Witboai, the captain of a tribe of people called Oorlams
resorting to Pella, was returned thither, the rain having re-
cruited the grass. These people were formerly under the
charge of the London Missionary Society ; Witboai bore a
good character; they had been driven away by drought, and
had been sojourning between Afrikaners Kraal and Griqua
1840.] LITTLE NAMAQUALAND. 575
Town. This man said he was himself going nearer to Kok
Fontein, the grass on this part of the banks of the river being
consumed. We wore away another hot day, by the bank of
the Great Orange River, in endurance such as is a great exercise
of patience. The tree under which the luggage was deposited,
was small, and thin of foliage, we therefore put our saddle-
cloths into it to keep the sun off our heads, while we alter-
nately tried to sleep, with little success. Prudence required
one of us to be with the luggage ; the other was sometimes
watching the horses that were first found, sometimes collect-
ing Rozynjes from the trees on the brink of the river, and
sometimes plunging into the water. We had, however,
plenty of sour milk and of good water. After sunset, we
rode two hours, to a little werf of three huts, where we
purchased a goat for a knife and a tinder-box. At a rocky
place, at the foot of a range of mountains, abutting on the
river, the only remaining girth of Seberioe's saddle, broke,
and he fell upon his head ; he complained afterwards of pain,
but happily, the injury proved slight ; this was cause for
thankfulness ; for any serious accident would be very trying
in such a situation.
I often noticed the coloured natives of South Africa, ex-
posed to the sun, with bare heads, under circumstances which
would doubtless have been fatal to Englishmen ; but I was
led, when in Cape Town, in the summer of 1840, to con-
clude, that a hot chmate, in the course of time or of suc-
cessive generations, produces a physical change in the animal
frame. I noticed a tallowchandler making candles when the
temperature of the weather was so high, that I was certain
the tallow would not have set in England. On inquiry, I
learned, that the tallow of the Cape oxen, would set so as to
be hard, when that from English oxen would remain soft, and
tallow from India would set at a high temperature, still harder
than that from the Cape oxen. As such a change is pro-
duced in oxen, it seems probable, that a similar one may
be produced in other animals, and that they may thus be-
come prepared to sustain a high temperature without injury.
21st. We had a rehgious interview with the people at
this place, at which we remained till about four o'clock, on
576 WILDERNESS. [2nd mo.
account of the heat. A luxuriant Doornboom sheltered us
from the scorching sun ; there were several fine trees of this
kind here, on the border of the river. When the heat began
to subside, a youth who took charge of the horses, brought
them up from a grassy plain at a distance, and we proceeded
on our journey. Leaving the Great Orange River, we tra-
velled through a long ravine, which formed a course for
water in rainy weather ; it was now an even surface of clean
granitic sand, besprinkled with low bushes: the rugged moun-
tains, on each side, which w^ere chiefly of gneiss, were so
sterile, that a few Kokerbooms, and stiff", prickly Euphorbias
were all that met the eye upon them. The mountains close
by the river, from the great fall, east of Afrikaners Kraal, to
this place, were a series of granitic peaks. The kloof upon
which we travelled, emerged into an extensive, grassy, granitic
plain, such as is common in this part of Africa. The grass in
these situations is either annual and thin on the ground, or
perennial and in tufts, many of which are of woody stemmed
species. These plains are interspersed, and often bordered
with low, granitic mountains ; they are destitute of water,
except in rainy weather. They are the resort of the Gems-
bok and the Zebra. The flesh of both these animals is
esteemed by the people : when we killed a goat last evening,
our attendants partook, by preference, of the flesh of a Zebra,
which was presented to them by the Hottentots residing at
the place ; and this morning, when the goat's flesh was
boiled in fat, to make it keep for the journey, they eat some
of that of the Zebra, soaking the flesh in the fat in which the
other had been cooked.
We off"saddled a little before sunset on one of the low
sandhills which render crossing this country with wagons
extremely difficult ; we rested an hour, and made tea with
water from the river, under some broad bushes of a round,
glaucous-stemmed Euphorbia, 4 feet high. A Cyrtonema, a
Bryony-like plant, with dissected leaves and tubercled red
berries, the size of a small hazel-nut, was climbing among
them. The horses were again caught and saddled before
dark. Two hours and a half of brisk riding brought us to a
series of isolated granite hills, formed of masses of bare rock.
1840.] LITTLE NAMAQUALAND. 577
called Gezelskops, Companion Hills, where we again rested ;
here we obtained a little water, in a hole, about 50 feet above
the plain, and made coffee. The moon arose some time be-
fore we reached this place, and the wind, which had been
hot from blowing over the sand, on which the sun had been
shining, became pleasantly cool.
22nd. We left Gezelskops about one o'clock in the morn-
ing, travelled westward, and then, passing through an opening
in the mountains, made a southerly course, leaving the grassy
country, and coming upon karroo of low bushes and Mesem-
bryanthemums. At three, being doubtful of our way, we
stopped among some rocks where there was a little grass, let
the horses graze, and slept a little. We arose again with the
sun ; and while our men were bringing up the horses, again made
cojffee ; we then rode to the Brak Rivier ; where the horses
drank, at a place dug in the deep sandy bed of the river, by
some young men who were watering their goats, oxen, and
cows ; the horses had travelled about seventy miles since
having water the previous afternoon, and the quantity was
so small, at this place, that it was long before the whole
number, with some others, belonging to some young Hot-
tentots who came up at the time, could drink. We reached
Kok Fontein again in the middle of the forenoon ; and met
a kind welcome from Michael Wimmer, the aged Missionary,
and his family ; they, with many of the people, were just
recovering from the measles. Some of the people from the
neighbouring places, arrived in the evening ; and according
to their custom, they held a prayer-meeting.
23rd. The people met for devotional purposes four times ;
they amounted to about forty, exclusive of children. In the
morning and evening, Michael Wimmer read portions of
Scripture, and expounded them, adding doctrine and exhor-
tation. The opportunities in the forenoon and afternoon were
left to G. W. Walker and myself : we felt much freedom in
labouring in the Gospel among the people. Considering
that the memory of the aged Missionary was evidently faihng
in respect to things of a temporal nature, I was struck with
admiration at his clearness and soundness, in regard to sub-
jects of Christian doctrine, as well as with the fervency and
o o
578 KOK FONTEiN. [2nd mo.
feeling with which he pressed these upon his audience, espe-
cially in the morning, which was the first time he had had
the opportunity of addressing them for several weeks. There
seemed to be the effusion of a heart overflowing with love
for his little flock, and with earnestness in putting them in
remembrance of the importance of not only laying hold on eter-
nal hfe, but of keeping hold of it. Obeserving that he spoke
in Dutch, and recollecting a remark of Margaret Wimmer,
that few of the people understood anything but Hottentot,
I queried with the good old man afterward, if all who were
present understood Dutch j he smiled and said, " No, but I
forgot the interpreter. "
24th. Neither Michael Wimmer, nor J. H. Schmelen,
were people who could write much about their labours, and
their field was very remote and secluded ; it seems, therefore,
to be due to them to state, that, though the inhabitants of
this part of the country necessarily moved about, to obtain
pasturage for their cattle, so that few were at Komaggas, or
at Kok Fontein, at a time, yet a considerable number suc-
cessively visited these stations, the pasturage of which was
reserved for those periods of the year in which the rain-
water pools dried up. If these laborious men were compared
to shepherds, their flocks might be compared to sheep, scat-
tered in little groups over a dreary wilderness ; but religious
knowledge and civilization, when considered in connexion
with the wandering lives of the people, and the common in-
disposition of human nature to advance in these points, had
made considerable progress ; and not a few, amongst the
people, appeared to be practical Christians. Michael Wim-
mer constantly left Kok Fontein in the winter; he packed up
three mat-huts, which then served as a dwelling, a chapel, and
a kitchen, and removed with his wagon and cart, to the places
where most of the people were sojourning. To us, his priva-
tions appeared to be considerable, but we judged of things by
comparison ; and by this rule, he had many more comforts
than his Hottentot neighbours; but the comforts and accom-
modation, even of his house at Kok Fontein, would be ex-
ceeded by those of the poorest, pious cottager in England.
The missionaries at both these stations had taught the
1840.] LITTLE NAMAQUALAND. 579
people to grow wheat, rye, and barley, in some elevated
places in their respective neighbourhoods; but milk was
their principal food. Had the people been sufficiently pro-
vident in the use of their grain, they might generally have
had bread ; but it is difficult to teach a people without barns
or store-houses, to be provident, especially when they are
often pinched by want of necessary food ; they are apt at
such times to consume their seed corn ; but to prevent this,
the missionaries often took charge of it. — In commenting
upon the merciful dealings of the Most High with them, and
the manner in which He, who careth for the sparrows, pro-
vided for them in the seasons of dismay, which had occurred
in the previous year, M. Wimmer said, the drought prevailed
so long that their milk failed, till they were really in want ;
but then rain fell, while the weather was yet warm, and the
grass began to spring, and the bushes to grow. No sooner
were their hopes thus revived, than a swarm of locusts came
and devoured every green thing ; the milk again failed ; but
the people eat the locusts. When these were gone, the cattle
were too poor to support the people ; and he thought now,
O ! what will my poor people do ? Where will they obtain
food ? At this juncture a vast herd of Springboks overran
the country ; and though their destruction of the recruiting
vegetation was scarcely less than that of the locusts, yet they
afforded the necessary, temporary supply of food. The peo-
ple shot them as long as their ammunition lasted, and when
it was spent, they hunted them into places among the rocks,
where they caught them ; and by the time that these were
gone, they again had a supply of milk. — This veteran mission-
ary finished his course, in the 77th year of his age, on the
21st of 6th mo. 1840 : he had migrated with the people to a
place called Fries Klip, and had been expostulating earnestly
with them on their indifference in the pursuit of heavenly
treasure. After they withdrew, he conversed on the same
subject with a man who remained. While thus engaged, he
bowed his head as if in deep thought, but it was soon disco-
vered that his head was bowed, to be raised no more; his spirit
had fled to its everlasting habitation. His remains were in-
terred at Kok Fontein on the 24th, when his neighbour and
o o 2
580 SPRINGBOK FONTEiN. [2nd mo.
fellow-labourer, J. H. Schmelen, bore a lively testimony to
his worth, among the assembled people, who felt that they
had lost a father, a friend, and a faithful counsellor.
Thunder with rain prevented our leaving Kok Fontein till
late in the afternoon, when having again taken the horses which
we brought from the Kamiesberg, and exchanged two of the
weakest of our own for stronger, we bade farewell to the mis-
sion family and the people, and accompanied by ten others,
in addition to our own number, we set forth on our journey.
After passing Byzondermeid, we ofFsaddled, where a little
rain water was collected in some holes of the rocks ; part of
the company left us at this place, to go to their own residence,
at a little fountain to the right ; subsequently a second de-
tachment went oif in another direction, leaving with us Gert
Wegland, Willem Smid, Jozias Engelbrecht, and Klaas Jantje,
who, in spite of all remonstrance, accompanied us to Lily
Fountain. After sunset, we passed two other places where
little groups of people were residing ; after ten o^ clock we
spread our karrosses on the sand, in the dry bed of a river,
under the lee of a little Doornboom. Near this place water
for the horses, and for making coffee, was obtained, from a
hole dug in the sand. This is termed Gra' water. Graven or
digged water.
25th. We rode early to Springbok Fontein, where a family
of Dutch extraction were residing ; they had grown a con-
siderable quantity of wheat, and we obtained from them a
good supply of chaff for our horses, which in this sterile land
is considered good forage ! There was a feeble spring of ex-
cellent water at this place, rising in a white-quartz hill, and
watering a little garden, in which pumpkins, caffer-melons,
tobacco, and dakka were cultivated. There were also a few
small pools in the hollow below. This settlement consisted
of two hartebeest houses, used for storing corn, and seven
mat huts. Many of the people were ill of the measles; but
several of them assembled in one of the houses, and we had
an interesting time of religious labour Math them. A loaf of
bread being obtained here, and some caffer-melons, which
were pared, cut into slices, and boiled with some wheat-meal,
our whole company had an excellent dinner ; to this was added
1840.] LITTLE NAMAQUALAND. 581
a liberal supply of tea, of which some of the family of our
host also partook; as we were drawing near to our wagon, we
could afford to be more free in the use of this refreshing bev-
erage. A shelter is sometimes formed in this country of four
upright stakes, to which cross-pieces are attached, over which
mats are thrown, as a protection from the sun. One of these
was a great comfort here : under it, the corn for our dinner was
ground, in a mill consisting of a pair of little stones turned by
the hand. In the afternoon we continued our journey and rode
till midnight with only one rest; most of the way was over sand,
by the side of a periodical river, the Hottentot name of which
signifies Old-grass. Long after dark we met a party of about
40 Hottentots, with some pack-oxen, who had been on a
journey, and were returning home; they were a company who
occasionally resorted to Lily Fountain. At the Kowsie, or
BufFels Rivier, on the boundary of the Colony, we passed the
house of a boor named Niekerk ; the people were probably
asleep, as none appeared, notwithstanding the barking of the
dogs, while our people long groped about, in the bed of the
river, in search of the hole for water ; at length they found
some which was drinkable, in a place fenced off as a garden.
We continued up the river to a place convenient for the night,
where, being too tired to make tea, we spread our karrosses
on the sand, and quickly went to sleep. In the course of
the day, we passed several places where cattle had been fed
till the scanty pasturage among the bushes, or the water, had
failed, and a few where corn had been grown. The Kowsie,
or Buffels Rivier, may be regarded, not only as the boundary
of the Colony, but as the division between a great district of
pure granite, on the south side, and one on the north, in which
the constituents of the granite are, in numerous instances,
separated, sometimes forming separate mountains of quartz,
feldspar, or mica, but in which gneiss and granite also abound.
In the latter country, copper ore frequently occurs; it is so plen-
tiful in some mountains which we passed, that they are called
Koperbergen, Copper Mountains. Probably it might be col-
lected advantageously by the Namaqua Hottentots, and trans-
mitted, in their skin knapsacks, to some place on the coast
where they might exchange it for other commodities ; but to
o o 3
582 LITTLE NAMAQUALAND. [2nd mO.
smelt it in this country would be impracticable. The only
supply of wood that could be used for such a purpose is on
the banks of the Orange River, and a few tributary streams,
where the belt of wood is seldom twenty yards wide ; from
what I know of the quantity required, I think all that
would be available for such a purpose would be consumed
by a smelting-work in two or three years. The primitive
nature of the whole country precludes the idea of the ex-
istence of coal ; no coal is known in any part of South
Africa except in the interior, at some distance from Port
Natal. The only remaining article of fuel which could be
obtained is cow-dung, and the quantity required would be too
great to be supplied in a country capable of supporting so
comparatively small a stock of cattle. — Iron exists to the
north of the Orange River, in a metallic state, in considerable
masses; probably it is meteoric; for the causes already men-
tioned, it could not be worked on any extensive scale. Whe-
ther the black hills north of the Orange River be entirely
mica, or contain tin, is an interesting question.
26th. We travelled through a long, stony pass, and then
left the Buffels Rivier. Taking a southerly direction, we
progressively ascended the Kamiesbergen, and in about three
hours, arrived at the first water, which was flowing in a slen-
der stream over a rock, in the bed of a small periodical river,
for the most part choked with sand, at the foot of a high
granite mountain, on which there were many Baboons. Here we
offsaddled, had the luxury of a good wash, and spent the warm-
est part of the day under the shelter of a Doornboom, chiefly
in sleeping. We were favoured again to reach Lily Foun-
tain soon after sunset, and were again warmly welcomed by
Joseph and Mary Ann Jackson. We brought two of our
hired horses to within sight of the place, but they were
so tired that we were obliged to leave them; others with
difficulty reached the station. On this journey we rode 970
miles, and employed twenty-three horses.
CHAPTER XXXIII.
Drought. — Feeding on Ants' Eggs. — Departure from Lily Fountain. — Bushman
Field. — Pious Women. — Growth of Corn. — Twee Riviers. — Acts of Oppres-
sion. — Oog Fontein. — Groene Rivier. — Hottentot Villages. — Intense Heat. —
Effects of the Heat.— Dragons.— Murder of W. Threlfall— Straying of Oxen.
— Klip Fontein. — Valei Fontein. — Outspan Places. — Tromotriche. — Ebene-
zer. — Rhenish Missionaries. — Hendrik Van Zyl. — Mattys Grivin. — Olifants
Rivier. — Exhausted Cattle. — Knagersberg. — Heerelogement. — Uitkomst. —
Cedar Mountains. — Wupperthal. — Effects of Example. — Burial of a Hotten-
tot. — Cedars. — Clan William.
2nd mo. 27th. We made some arrangements in the wagon
preparatory to another journey. The dryness of the weather
had made the pasturage on the Kamiesbergen so deficient,
that the weaker portion of our oxen were inadequate to the
performance of a journey to Cape Town. Many of the peo-
ple had removed from Lily Fountain to seek pasturage in the
adjacent country. There was grass in the Bushman-field to
the N.E. beyond the Boundary; but so little rain had yet fallen
there, that the supply of water was deficient ; from the appear-
ance of the clouds, however, it was judged that thunder-
showers were now falling every day in that direction.
28th. We attended a meeting, in which I spoke to the
people on the evils of idleness and unnecessary visiting, and
of living one upon another. The contrariety of these prac-
tices to christian principle, as exhibited in the Holy Scrip-
tures, was explained ; and the high standard of christian per-
fection, at which we are exhorted to aim, was held up to
view.
29th. The men who came with us from Kok Fontein,
returned, somewhat disappointed at not being able to procure
seed-corn in the neighbourhood. The only Boor in the vicinity,
who had any to spare, asked a high price for it of a coloured
584 KAMiESBERG. [3rd mo.
person, though he parted with it to persons of his own class,
for a moderate sum. The growth of corn helps the Hotten-
tots of the Missionary Stations greatly, at those times of the
year when milk is scarce. When their corn is consumed, many
of them are reduced to the necessity of feeding upon the eggs
of White-ants, which in this part of the country, make their
nests in holes in the ground. The Hottentots here call these
eggs, Rice, on account of their resemblance to that grain ;
they usually wash them, and cook them with a small quan-
tity of water ; they are said to be palatable. If the people find
a place where the nests are numerous, they soon become fat
upon the eggs, even when previously much reduced by hun-
ger. Sometimes they will get half a bushel of eggs out of
one nest.
3rd mo. 3rd. Having completed the packing of our wag-
on, and laid in a good stock of dried bread, as well as cleared
ourselves of all the remaining heavy articles, which there was
now no probability of our requiring, we were ready to set
forward toward Cape Town, but the oxen could not be col-
lected in time, to allow of our proceeding. We purchased four
strong ones of a Hottentot, who accompanied us as far as
Clan William, whither he was going to pay the Opgaaf, Taxes,
for himself and a few others.
4th. Our herdsman came in this morning with all the
oxen except one. The scarcity of food had induced the cat-
tle to wander. The pasture was so completely consumed,
that, to weak cattle, the Kamiesberg had not merely become
" the land of the shadow of death, " but the land of actual
starvation ; many had already died of hunger, and there was
no prospect of more food till rain should fall. The people
were fast migrating to the Bushman-field, which is a sandy
plain with grass, like that which we crossed near the Orange
River. The Bushmen inhabiting it are few in number, and
have no cattle ; if they get a little tobacco from the people
who feed their stock there, they are well satisfied. But
as the Bushmen have little idea of private property, the peo-
ple are afraid to go to their land, unless in sufficient num-
bers to watch the cattle. Among the people who called to
take leave of us, was a woman of eminent piety, named Else ;
1840.] CAPE COLONY. 585
she was the mother-in-law of our late guide, William Sneeu-
wy : she said, she first heard the Gospel from J. H. Schme-
len, but was effectually awakened by Michael Wimmer, at
whose station she lived a long time ; both there and at this
place she was very useful in promoting the religious welfare
of the people. In her simple, but figurative language, she
described the persevering labours of Michael Wimmer, by
saying, that he screwed the truth into her heart, and flogged
it into her children. Eva Bartels, mentioned by Barnabas
Shaw in his Memorials of South Africa, was also residing
here ; she had learned to read her Bible both in English and
Dutch, and she maintained her character as a pious woman,
and as a mother in Israel. — After taking leave of our kind
friends, we rode to Draaiklip, Turn Rock, a place where corn
is grown for the Missionaries on the Kamiesberg and at Nis-
bett. Here, as well as on the Koperbergen, and near Kok
Fontein, wheat and other grain grow without irrigation, and
yield a fair increase, especially if manured.
5th. We outspanned at a place in the Onderveld, Under-
field, called the Twee Riviers, Two Rivers, now belonging to
the Lily Fountain Mission. This place was purchased by the
Wesleyans, of a family who emigrated to Natal. Originally,
it was obtained from the Government, probably by false re-
presentations, by a person who was placed here by the Govern-
ment, to take care of the rights of the Hottentots ; these, he
seems to have had but little regard for ; but he sought his
own interests, and the Hottentots were driven from the place
for his accommodation. The old man who accompanied us
as guide, pointed out a place at the back of a mountain,
where he had opened out a spring, which was soon claimed
by a neighbouring Boor, who was then holding the office of
Field-cornet, notwithstanding it v/as about two hours^ walk
from the Boor's house ; and the boundary, of what is termed
A Loan Place, which is a place obtained from the Government,
that has not yet been surveyed, is half an hour's walk in every
direction from the house or centre. The Hottentot applied to
the Civil Commissioner of the district, to be allowed to occupy
the place, but the decision was given in favour of the Field-
cornet. — Our people obtained water by digging in the bed of
586 GROENE RiviER. [3rd mo.
one of the rivers, by the side of which, on a spot that had
been cultivated, there was a little short grass, of a species of
Cynodon. In the evening, we crossed the Haas Rivier, Hare
River y at a place where some Hottentots were residing, who
obtained water in a hole in its sandy bed ; they had made
gardens, in which they were growing pumpkins, &c. They
gave us some water-melons, and pressed us to stay over
night, but as we had seen most of them at Lily Fountain,
and their cattle had nearly eaten up all the pasturage, we
determined to proceed to Oog Fontein, Eye Fountain ; we
therefore took leave of them, and departed, after extending
a passing exhortation. At Oog Fontein the water was dried
up, and the grass was also consumed, so that there was poor
fare for our oxen.
6th. Our cattle drank at a place on the upper part of the
Groene Rivier, Green River in the bed of which the Doorn-
booms were large and thick, and there were a few reeds, on which
the cattle browsed. The water was obtained in a deep hole in
the sand, at which only three of the oxen could drink at a
time, even after it had been enlarged by our spades. A few
families of Coloured people were living here, under the wall
of a ruined house, and in half a mat hut ; the other half had
possibly been removed in consequence of the heat. At two
o'clock, the thermometer was at 106°; two hours after sun-
set it was 86°. Some of these people could not understand
Dutch ; after I had given them a little religious counsel in
that language, four women came to the wagon, and sent old
Joseph Jokkum, our companion and guide, to tell me, that
they had come to hear the words of truth : these, according
to the ability received, I endeavoured to communicate, and
Joseph interpreted. A breeze from the sea set in, about two
o'clock ; at three, we proceeded, and rode tiU after sun-
set, to another place on the same river, called Indoorn Fon-
tein, In-i horn Fountain, where there was an open pool of water
springing from the bank of the river. A few people were
also residing here in mat huts. Four women, who could un-
derstand Dutch, came to the wagon at our usual reading,
when we were favoured with a solemn feeling of divine influ-
ence. On the way, we passed two mat huts, which we were
1840.] CAPE COLONY. 58?
informed belonged to a man who had two wives. Cases of
this kind are not common among the Hottentots ; having,
in their uncivilized state, neither gardens nor fields to culti-
vate, they have not the same inducement as the Bechuanas
and CafFers, to take a plurality of wives, as labourers ; and
food being often scarce with them, a large establishment
would be inconvenient to a Hottentot.
7th. The thermometer rose to 116° in the shade. The
oxen had strayed in the night, and in the evening, Abraham
returned, greatly exhausted, with only fifteen ; he had been
all the day without food. He said, old Joseph was on the
track of the others ; he also set out in the morning without
victuals, which we had often advised them against. — Some of
the people residing here were present twice to-day, when por-
tions of Scripture were read, and some comments made.
None of them could read ; and this was the case with many
others, scattered in this wilderness. — At Draaiklip, many
small birds, of the tribe called Sugar Birds, probably spe-
cies of Cinnyris, were feeding on the honey of a species of
Gompholobium, or on insects attracted by the honey; the
males were brilliantly coloured with green, blue, and red.
Motacilla capensis, a bird much like the White Wagtail, fre-
quently visited the wagon ; in these hot days, it had its beak
wide open, panting for breath. Lizards also stood open-
mouthed, on the tops of the rocks, panting, in consequence
of the heat. Probably circumstances of this kind gave rise
to the comparison used by the prophet Jeremiah, when de-
scribing the great dearth ; " The wild asses did stand in the
high places ; they snuffed up the wind like dragons. " The
word dragons is probably used here to signify Lizards. The
difficulty in writing was great j if the pen were taken off the
paper for a moment, the ink at its point was dry. Flies were
extremely numerous ; they often settled on the pen, and
tried to drink the ink from it ; and unless the inkstand were
kept closed, they continually got into the ink. The paper
became so brittle, that care was required not to break it, in
folding it; and the nails, of the thumbs especially, had a ten-
dency to reverse their convexity, and to become detached at
the tips.
588 zwARTEDOORN RiviER. [3rd mo.
8th. We assembled the people for religious purposes. In
the morning, we had also the company of Klaas Kloete, an
old man of Dutch and Hottentot extraction, residing on ano-
ther part of the Groene Rivier, not far distant. This man
was interpreter to the Civil Commissioner Ryneveld, when
he went into Namaqualand, to witness the execution of the
murderer of William Threlfall a Missionary, and his com-
panions, Jacob and Johannes Jagger, of which the particu-
lars are given in the interesting Memorials of South Africa,
by Barnabas Shaw. The murderer said, Threlfall offered no
resistance, but crept into a bush, and continued to pray till
he ceased to breathe. — On my expressing some fears for the
safety of old Joseph, Klaas Kloete replied in Dutch : " O,
he is a child of the wilderness ! he will not die of hunger ;
he knows where there is water, and where there are people."
During the heat of the day, the wagon was untenable ; it was
a privilege to recline on a karross spread on the short grass,
under a thick Doornboom, in the bed of the river, which was
quite dry, except at the spring.
9th. Old Joseph returned in the night with the residue
of the oxen ; they had gone far back among the mountains,
in search of food : they were evidently reduced in flesh by
their ramble. Joseph had been again to Lily Fountain ; and
three other men came back with him, with pack-oxen, on
their way to the Olifants Rivier, near the mouth of which a
vessel from Cape Town had put in with stores. — The oxen
strayed again, notwithstanding the greatest ramblers were
tied up ; it was consequently late before we got ofl". In five
hours and a quarter we reached a place on the Zwartedoorn
Rivier, Blackthorn River, where a man of Dutch extraction
was residing. At two o'clock, the thermometer stood at 96°.
At sunset, we again set forward, and continued our travel by
moonlight, till ten o'clock, when we halted on a bushy moun-
tain likely to aff'ord food for our cattle, but the vegetation was
very dry ; even the succulent plants and shrubs were shriv-
elled : " the whole earth languished. " I walked most of the
evening, conversing with old Joseph, who spoke much of the
benefit which had arisen to himself and his countrj^men by
Missionaries coming amongst them ; and of the manner in
1840.] CAPE COLONY. 589
which the Boors were previously getting possession of the
country ; and either driving the Hottentots back, or com-
pelling them to become their servants.
10th. A ride of two hours brought us to Klip Fontein :
where there were two brackish springs, and five mat-huts
among the low granite hills. Here we had a religious inter-
view with three men and several women. We exchanged a
little rice and a few other small items for a half-grown kid,
with one of the women, who was anxious to obtain rice for
her young children ; their wheat had nearly failed this sea-
son. At sunset, we again yoked our oxen ; after riding seven
hours and a quarter, and crossing the dry bed of the Zoute
Rivier, Salt River, we outspanned, on the top of a low, bushy
hill, and made the cattle fast, in order to start early in the
morning.
11th. We set forward before daylight, and reached Valei
Fontein, Valley Fountain, early. Some people residing here
told us, there was no water at this place ; but our Kamiesberg
people soon found some in a pond, which appeared to be
fresh dug, at a little spring, which discharged about two quarts
of brackish water in a minute, and could not supply many
large spans of oxen in a day. Till the people found that we
knew the regulations of the " outspan places " as well as
themselves, they were very urgent to get us away. Our right
was to continue to drink within twenty-four hours of the
time of our arrival, and we had come too far already, to pro-
ceed again to-day in so great a heat. The distance of the
next place at which there was water was considerable, and as
the cattle had now become very weak, and in consequence of
some thunder-showers which fell here about a month ago,
the bushes were growing and nutritious, we were disposed,
not only to avail ourselves of the full extent of our privilege
in regard to drinking, but to give the cattle the advantage of
browsing till it was cool enough to proceed on the following
evening. This the people admitted was reasonable ; and
when they found we could take care of our privileges, they
became very civil ; one of them said, he was allowed to re-
main here and feed his cattle, by the Civil Commissioner of
the district, on condition of taking care to have a supply of
590
EBENEZEK.
[3rd mo.
water for the cattle of travellers. In conversing with some
of the people, one of them said, that the ship which came to
the mouth of the Olifants Rivier did much harm by bringing
spirits; and that some persons who had gone thither, in-
tending to purchase rice, had returned with nothing but
brandy. The Thermometer was 102° in the afternoon.
12th. Tromotriche pruinosa, a plant of the Stapelia tribe,
was in flower among the granite rocks. We left Valei Fon-
tein in the evening, and outspanned at a late hour among
hills, where the bushes afforded tolerable forage.
13th. In two hours, we reached Kokenap, on the Olifants
Rivier, Elephants River ; here a Boor informed our people,
that if the cattle were not over the river by noon, he would
impound them. This Avas a kind of rudeness that we rarely
witnessed among the Boors of Africa ; generally, they were
civil and hospitable. In another hour and a half, we out-
spanned by the river, opposite to Ebenezer, a station of the
Rhenish Missionary Society. At this place we found our-
selves again among warm-hearted Christians.
14th. The missionary-station of Ebenezer, which is re-
presented in the accompanying cut, was an original kraal
©bcne^cr, Hi^cnisI) JfgtissfonarB Station.
of Hottentots ; it was secured to them along with a tract of
land, by the Government, which also gave a charge over it
to the Rhenish Missionary Society. In moist seasons, the
Olifants Rivier overflows some of the land on its banks,
which then yield, a hundred-fold increase ; but for a few years
1840.] CAPE COLONY. 591
past, there had been no flood, and the people had sown com
in the rainy season, upon some of the hills to the south, but
it had yielded an insufficient crop. This year they were suf-
fering greatly from drought ; it had temporarily driven many
of the people away from the place. The number remaining
was only about 170, and the measles were prevailing among
them ; the school was consequently very small. The Mis-
sionary families were kindly supplied with corn, at a low
price, by a Boor named Hendrik Van Zyl, of the Uitkomst,
who was a rare instance, among his class, of freedom from
prejudice against Missionaries and coloured people ; in chris-
tian liberahty, he was also joined by his wife ; so that it might
truly be said, that their praise was in all the churches of this
part of Africa. We were favoured to-day, with the company
of this good, old man, who was on a fishing excursion in
this neighbourhood, along with Mattys Grivin, a native of
Holland, who, at one time, served in the English army, but
had taken to the more rational and christian occupation of a
fisherman.
15th. We joined the mission-family at breakfast, but slept
in the wagon, at the opposite side of the river. In the fore-
noon, opportunity was affbrded me to express what presented
to my mind for the people. The afternoon was usually de-
voted to catechetical exercise, and to the teaching of an adult
school ; but to-day, the former was superseded, to allow my
companion to express his exercise for the people. These op-
portunities were attended by a solemn feeling of divine in-
fluence. Cordial unity was expressed by our Missionary
friends, with the doctrine preached, which related especially
to the perceptible guidance of the divine Spirit, and the ne-
cessity of witnessing the sanctifying operation of the same,
unto obedience, and the sprinkling of the blood of Christ.
Four of the adults were members of the church, and seven
were candidates.
16th. We visited the school, with which G. Terlinden,
one of the missionaries, took great pains ; his usual number
of pupils was 37, several of whom were young women ; 24 of
the whole number could read in the Dutch Testament, most
of them fluently ; they excelled most of their own class in
592 OLIFANTS RiviER. [3rd mo.
writing, and they had a good knowledge of Scripture History.
The interrogatory system was pursued here, and the pupils
sometimes questioned each other. Several of the people
were living in huts built of reeds, which were more substan-
tial dwellings than mat huts, but not transportable. A wind-
mill was about to be erected on a low rounded hill, of reddish
purple Porphyry, in which white quartz crystals were im-
bedded. There was a quarry of Mica-slate at a short distance
from it ; this is a common rock in this neighbourhood, where
rocks of white quartz are also frequent. The quantity of land
secured to the Hottentots at this station is, 11,800 morgens,
which is equal to about 23,000 acres. This, though a large
extent of ground, is of such a quality as requires a large sur-
face for a few cattle ; ours became decidedly weaker while
they were here ; one of them died among the low bushes,
which are scattered over a large part of the country. — In the
dry weather the cattle had to wander over many miles to get
food, and to return to the river to drink. Many of the
bushes contained soda, and were of the kinds called brack-
bushes ; the cattle maintained their health while they had
brack-water to drink with these ; but when, as at the Olifants
Rivier, they had fresh water to brack-bushes, they drank too
much, to the danger of their lives. — The Olifants Rivier is
a permanent stream, from the mountains to the eastward ; it
is about 100 yards wide at this place, and fresh, except at high
tides ; it is bordered with doornbooms and willows. — In the
evening the cattle and horses were again driven across the
river, and we took an affectionate leave of the mission-family,
and resumed our journey. The road lay over low hills of
white quartz, which in some places, by moonlight, had the
appearance of snow. At intervals there was deep sand. We
purchased an additional ox of one of the men from Lily
Fountain. Our whole stock betokened great weakness. It
was truly painful to ride horses, and drive cattle in such a
state of exhaustion, as we were under the necessity of using
them in. But the lives of the cattle, in long journeys in this
country, are, as it were, staked against those of the travellers,
and the one or the other must give way. — The weather was
cool, with clouds from the sea.
1840.] CAPE COLONY. 593
17th. Soon after sunrise, we had a friendly visit from a
neighbouring Field-cornet, who conversed freely about the
coloured people, and made some sensible remarks on the
prejudices of his countrymen against them. Amongst these,
he enumerated the notion, that it was not necessary for the
soul of a Hottentot to be instructed in the things pertaining
to salvation; he had often contended against these prejudices,
and had inquired of such as entertained them, if they thought
there were two heavens and two hells, one of each for Whites,
and another for Blacks ! In the afternoon, we were overtaken
by a coloured man, formerly a slave, who, having heard of
us, and of the object of our journey, from old Joseph, had
brought us a present of a large Water-melon.
18th. Before five in the morning, we again set forward;
as we descended the Knagersberg, the beams of the moon
were distinctly to be seen glittering on the sea, near the
mouth of the Olifants Rivier. At eight o'clock we reached
the rugged, isolated, sandstone hills of the Heerelogement,
Gentlemavb s Lodging, where there was a slender spring, sup-
plying some pools of water. At this place, there is a cav-
ernous opening, with perpendicular sides, among the rocks,
on the ascent of a lofty hill ; on the sides of the cave, the
names of several persons were inscribed ; among them were
Casp. Hem. 1712, with the figure of an elephant underneath,
and F. Vaillant, 1783. Elephants are not now met with in
this part of Africa, nor on the western side, much to the
south of the Tropic of Capricorn. A wild fig-tree hangs
into the top of this cave, and gives it a pretty appear-
ance. The adjacent country is so destitute of water, that a
wagon, which was here from Clan William, going to a ship,
lying near the mouth of the Olifants Rivier, and which left
this place after noon, to-day, woidd reach its destination to-
morrow morning, load during the day, and return the fol-
lowing morning, without the oxen having the opportunity of
drinking till they should again reach this place ; the trader
was taking some casks of water with him for the use of the
merchant at the ship. A few opportunities presented to-day,
as was often the case in the course of our journey, of giving
tracts to travellers. Two young Hottentots belonging to
p p
594
UITKOMST.
[3rd mo.
Lily Fountain, who were journeying tliither on foot, stopped
over our evening reading.
19th. After travelling five hours and a half, and passing
some heavy, loose, sandy hills, we outspanned, not far from
Voffel Fontein, Bird Fountain.
20th. Having rested about three hours, we agam mspan-
ned ; some of the cattle were scarcely able to walk. At sun-
rise we arrived at the Uitkomst, Deliverance, the residence of
Hendrik and Maria C. Van Zyl, and a married son and his
wife. This place, which is represented in the accompanying
Stitkimst.
cut, is so named, in consequence of the assistance which tra-
vellers have received, when stuck fast in the sand, from the
worthy people residing here. The country over which we
had lately travelled, is called the Hardeveld, Hardfield. Our
friends at Lily Fountain were fearful that our cattle would
not be able to bring us over it, and they were but just able ;
several of them were so exhausted, that they died here, and
we were obliged to leave others to recruit. Hendrik Van Zyl
was still at the coast, fishing, but his wife and children suf-
fered us to lack nothing which their kindness could supply.
In the afternoon, accompanied by Seberioe, we set out on
horseback, for Clan William. Ascending a steep, rocky
mountain behind the house, we travelled over its flat top, on
which our eyes were regaled by the sight of green grass and
fresh water. We descended by a long, tedious road, of loose
1840.] CAPE COLONY. 595
sand, near to which, on some rocky eminences, there were
many small Baboons ; and after crossing the Olifants Rivier,
which here was very shallow, we arrived at the place of our
destination, two hours after dark. We were kindly received
by the Government schoolmaster, and our horses were cared
for by a neighbour.
21st. Early in the morning, we crossed the Jan Dissels
River, a constant, shallow, sandy, and very useful stream, and
ascended the Cedar Mountains, by a steep road, winding at
the top, among grotesque, sandstone crags ; in four hours and
a half, we reached Klip Huis, Rock Hoiise, the dwelling of a
family, by whom we were kindly received, and hospitably en-
tertained. Being satisfied, on seeing the mountainous nature
of the country, that two of our horses could not effect the
journey, Seberioe and I left ours here, and walked. We next
ascended the Pakhuisberg, Warehouse Mountain^ and after-
wards descended into a hollow, and wound up a steep, stony
ascent to the Groeneberg, Green Mountain ; we then de-
scended into a long, grassy valley called Honing Valei, Honey
Vale, where two families of mixed descent were residing.
Here we rested, and were refreshed with coffee and quinces ;
the latter, though not first-rate fruit for eating, are very
superior here, either raw or cooked, to those grown in Eng-
land. The duince is often used in Africa for garden fences ;
it bears fruit profusely, especially by the sides of the little
ditches used for irrigation. The ditches were here supplied
by little streamlets of clear water, such as we had not seen
for so many months, that their cheering aspect excited an
emotion such as required the previous privation of good wa-
ter to understand. Continuing our journey by a winding
road over the rocky top of the Koudeberg, Cold Mountain,
I was constrained to mount G. W. Walker's horse, and we
descended by a long, sloping road, cut in the side of the hills,
to the station of the Rhenish Missionaries at Wupperthal,
which we reached just as the families were retiring to rest.
Though we were strangers, yet on making ourselves known,
we received a cordial greeting, such as grows out of the love
of Christ, and readily manifests a fellowship with those who
are believed to love the same gracious Lord and Master.
p p 2
596 WUPPERTHAL. [3rd mo.
22nd. Opportunity was afforded with great willingness, to
my companion and myself, to express our christian concern
for the people, with whom we believed it our place to plead
on temperance, righteousness and judgment to come. — The
Hottentots are much inclined to use intoxicating liquors; this
is often pleaded against them by their white neighbours, who
do not seem to susj^ect themselves of being the cause of the
Hottentots' drunkenness ; but this is very evidently the re-
sult of the example of those to whom the Hottentots look
up. It is not common to see a Boor drunk ; but the use of
" soupies, " or drams, is about as common with them, as it
was with the Scotch a few years ago. The Scotch drank
whiskey, and the Afrikander drinks Brandewyn, Burning
Wine, which may be described, as Avhiskey prepared by dis-
tillation from the grape ; he often takes a soupie before break-
fast, and two or three more in the course of the day, and he
gives it to his friends as a token of hospitality, and sometimes
to his servants as a reward. In numerous instances, a daily
ration is stipulated for, along with the wages of his coloured
servants. If, under these circumstances, the Hottentots had
not become drunken, they would have differed from all other
races of the human family. It is said, that the Bechuana
and Caffer tribes are not, in the same way, addicted to the
vice of intemperance ; and to a certain extent, this is true, in
regard to those now in the Colony as labourers, and those
residing on the more sterile parts of the Frontier. These have
been a comparatively short time within the influence of the
example of spirit-drinkers ; and they are under circumstances
in which they find, that by industry and frugality j^ they can
save money, and thus obtain the means of purchasing cattle,
which soon raises them into a sort of independence in their
own land. This motive for saving, has obtained a priority of
place with them, before an appetite for strong drink has been
created. But among the Amaponda Caffers, and the Bechu-
ana tribes inhabiting parts of the country where much corn
is grown, there is as much drunkenness as is anywhere to be
found among the Hottentots. The unconverted part of the
Bechuanas, on the Vaal River, make an intoxicating drink
from certain berries, which they collect in great quantities
1840.]
CAPE COLONY.
597
for this purpose, and the Bushmen intoxicate themselves
with honey-beer. When the White inhabitants of South Africa
leave off the use of Brandewyn, there will be ground to hope,
that their example will influence their servants to sobriety.
The canteens at Clan William, which were formerly a snare
to the Hottentots of Wupperthal, have been closed; and now,
but few of the Boors in the vicinity, who make Brandewyn,
or Cape-brandy, will sell it to the Hottentots. Travelling
traders still dispense this poison on their journies ; some of
them imagine, that the law forbidding them to sell it is not
infringed upon, if they exchange it for goods ; others give
it to the people, for the sake of the more ready advantage
they gain over them, in persuading them to make unnecessary
purchases, and in obtaining exorbitant prices for their com-
modities. — The congregation at Wupperthal amounted to
about 200 persons ; some of them came from the surrounding
farms.
23rd. Wupperthal, which is represented in the accom-
panying cut, derives its name from a valley in Germany,
a2auppcrtf)al, Itfjtnisf) Jttissionaro Station.
through which the river Wupper flows : this name has been
transferred to a beautiful little brook, which flows northward,
and joins the Doom Rivier ; formerly it had only a Hottentot
p p 3
598 WUPPERTHAL. [3rd mo.
name, not easily pronounced by Europeans. The station
was once the possession of a Boor, from whom it was pur-
chased ; and the Government granted an addition of 14,000
morgens, making the whole extent 20,000. Its situation is in
a deep valley of the Cedar Mountains, of difficult access and
egress. The slope by which we reached it, and which is a
well-formed road, requires twenty oxen to take a wagon up,
for nearly two miles. The mountains of this range, which
extends to the south coast, are sandstone, rising to about
5,000 feet above the level of the sea. Wupperthal is at an
elevation of 1,630 feet. The valley of Wupperthal is grassy
and fertile ; it is embellished with oaks and weeping willows,
and its gardens are fenced with quince and pomegranate. The
village consists of the Mission-house, a chapel in Dutch style,
a tannery, a watermill, buildings in progress for schools, and
some dwellings, all of which are scattered among the luxuriant
trees ; at a little distance, are the houses of the Hottentots,
which are in cottage style. The mountains afford tolerable
pasturage at certain seasons ; and for Southern Africa, there
is a good proportion of land capable of cultivation. The sta-
tion had, at this time, been established about ten years ;
hitherto the number of coloured people who had settled on
it had not been great. Probably they would have remained
more steadily than they had done, if little werfs had been
sold to them, so that their houses and gardens might have
been independent freeholds. This it was feared might some-
times fix persons of evil influence on the spot; but, I
question whether the result would have been so bad as
fear anticipated ; and if a judgment might be formed from
the Kat River Settlement, the moral advantages would greatly
outweigh the inconveniences. In situations suited for handi-
craft trades, and aff"ording garden ground, well supplied with
water, the settlement of villages, with inhabitants principally
of the coloured races, is very desirable. The influence of the
Station at Wupperthal, in its present state, was decidedly
good ; but there were numerous parties of Bastaards, chiefly
woodcutters of low habits, living in the mountains, who were
little inclined to avail themselves of the advantages offered
by a residence here ; and the prejudices of most of the Boors
1840.] CAPE COLONY. 599
of the neighbourhood were so strong against the instruction
of the coloured people, that they would not allow their ser-
vants to come to the school or chapel, if they could prevent
them. Six coloured people were members of the church,
and a few were inquirers ; upwards of thirty children were in
the school. — In the evening, we attended the interment of an
aged Hottentot, and had some service at the grave side. The
grave was about four feet deep, with a descending groove on
one side, at the bottom ; in this the body was placed, wrap-
ped in a karross ; a board was fixed against the opening into
this groove, by means of large stones, and the earth was then
filled in. This is the common mode of interment ; the re-
mains are thus secured from hyenas, which abound among
these mountains. Where no board can be obtained, flat
stones are used instead.
24th. We returned to Clan William. Baboons were very
numerous among the hills ; they saluted us with shouts as
we passed through the bushy valleys. At Klip Huis, we
found our horses a little refreshed, and spent an hour plea-
santly ; we then wound among the ramparts of grotesque
rocks, to the descent of the mountain. There are large
bushes by some of the streamlets of the valleys, and Heaths
and Proteas are plentiful among the hills ; one of the latter
with glaucous leaves, forms a small tree ; it is scattered on
the cliffs ; whence it derives the name of Klipboom, Rock
Tree. The Cedar of this part of the country does not grow
in woods, but is scattered among the rugged mountains ; it
attains to a considerable size, and affords planks resembling
coarse deal. In growth it resembles the Red Cedar; pro-
bably it is a species of Pachylepis, a genus which differs
from Callitris in having only four divisions in its fruit ; the
Australian species of Callitris have universally six. Callitris
quadrifida, of the north of Africa, is probably a Pachylepis.
25th. Clan William consisted at this time of fourteen
houses forming a line ; they were pretty well built, and had
long strips of garden in front, irrigated from the Jan Dissels
River, and shady trees on the opposite side of the road,
which lay between the houses and the gardens. There was
also a row of stores, stables, &c. behind, forming a back
600 CLAN WILLIAM. [3rd mo.
street, and a police-office, jail and chapel, at one end of the
town. The situation is fine, being between two ranges of
mountains. That of the Cederbergen in front, is lofty, varied
and grand ; that behind, undulating, and of much less pic-
turesque outline. The place is, however, uncomfortable in
summer ; the town being on a sandy flat, from which the
heat is strongly reflected. Though the town is small, it is
the capital of a very extensive district, and is therefore a
place of considerable importance. — We called on the Civil
Commissioner, who kindly lent us the use of his office, in
which we had a meeting in the evening with a large propor-
tion of the White Inhabitants, and a few of the Hottentots.
Several of the former were natives of Great Britain or Ire-
land, and most of the others understood the English lan-
guage ; we therefore addressed them in our native tongue,
in which we set forth the love of God in Christ Jesus, and
the necessity of heartily joining in with the ofi"ers of his
grace, in order to obtain salvation.
26th. We called on a few persons, made purchases of some
small articles, such as needles, thread, &c. of which the con-
sumption is considerable in African travelling. In the even-
ing, we addressed the inhabitants in the Civil Commissioner's
office, on the use of intoxicating drinks. Notwithstanding
the canteens had all been abolished by the Civil Commis-
sioner, on the petition of many of the inhabitants of the town
and neighbourhood, intoxicating liquors, chiefly wines, were
in very general use, and to an extent, visibly injurious.
27th. We visited the jail, which consisted of a range of
inferior, front buildings, used as offices for the turnkey, sur-
geon, &c. and five large cells, on the opposite side of the
intervening yard. The inmates were about half a score of
convicts, employed on the road, a few other prisoners, and a
blind pauper. The prisoners slept with one leg in the stocks !
We also looked into the Government school. Like many
others that were free of payment, it was very irregularly at-
tended ; neglect in this respect, was a common cause of com-
plaint in the Colony, both in paid and unpaid schools ; it
might arise from a want of a due appreciation of the value of
education on the part of parents. We called likewise on
1840.] CAPE COLONY. 601
several of the inhabitants, in company with a person holding
the office of deacon in the Dutch Church, the minister of
which proposed our meeting the coloured people in his place
of worship. To this proposal, we believed it right to accede,
and in the evening, about 100 persons assembled ; the ma-
jority were Coloured, but several of the upper class of the
White Inhabitants and some others attended. The minister
took his seat between us, and occasionally gave us a word in
Dutch, when he observed we were at a loss ; of his own
accord, he began and concluded the meeting with a hymn.
We were favoured with a more powerful sense of divine in-
fluence than I had dared to hope for ; my own mind being
unusually barren before the meeting, and there being many
other discouraging circumstances. At such times, patience is
necessary, as well as care, to watch against having the mind
diverted from its proper business by things we cannot remedy,
or perhaps, avoid. Along with much close counsel, we were
enabled to show in what true religion consists, and to mag-
nify and " praise the Lord for his goodness, and for his won-
derful works to the children of men.^^
CHAPTER XXXIV.
Uitkomst. — H. and M. C. Van Zyl. — A Dakka Smoker. — Guns. — Rain. — Com-
panys Drift. — Bella-donna Lily, — Outspan Places. — Piquetberg. — Plants. —
Misverstaan. — Country. — Berg Rivier. — Hippopotami. — Tulbagh. — Rhenish.
Missionaries. — Dutch Missionary Society. — Worcester. — Servants. — Jails. —
Aerolite. — Awakening. — Hot Spring. — Zondereinde. — Fransche Hoek Pas. —
Guernsey Lily. — Leopard. — Fransche Hoek. — J. Verhaag's account of Am-
boyna and Timor. — Sight of Table Mountain. — The Paarl. — Prejudice. — "Wel-
lington. — Wagonmakcrs Valley. — Malmesbury. — Groene Kloof. — Disorderly
Visiters. — Origin of the Moravians. — D'Urban. — Stellenbosch. — Civility. —
Neologianism. — Effects of Emancipation. — Liberality of the Dutch Population.
— Juvenile Emigrants. — Klip Fontein. — Return to Cape Town.
3rd mo. 28th. We took leave of our kind friends, John S.
and Agnes Evans, of Clan William, who had entertained us
hospitably ; they had in their service, an emigrant apprentice,
and an orphan of mixed Hottentot descent, whom they had
adopted, and both of whom were treated, as much like sons
as servants. — We reached the Uitkomst early, and were again
received with that frank hospitality for which Hendrik and
Maria C. Van Zyl are noted, and which is especially shown
to all who labour in the Gospel, from a real love to the truth.
— In the evening we had a religious opportunity with the
family and servants. Here all were cared for, and taught to
read, whatever might be their circumstances or colour. After
the reading of the Scriptures, we addressed them, and were
engaged in vocal prayer ; a sweet feeling of divine oversha-
dowing prevailed to such a degree that it was difficult to
separate. — It is worthy of remark, that in the drought of the
previous summer, when the corn was ready to perish on the
ground, rain fell at this place, so that the crops here were
good, notwithstanding most of the com was destroyed in the
surrounding country. H. Van Zyl would not however take
1840.] CAPE COLONY. 603
advantage of this ; but having first ascertained what the mis-
sionaries at Ebenezer wanted, whom he suppUed at a very
low rate, and that those at the Kamiesberg, Nisbett Bath,
and Komaggas had sufficient suppUes, he sold what remained
above his own wants, at a very moderate price, saying, that
the Lord had not blessed him, in order that he should take
advantage of his neighbours.
29th. We had two favoured meetings with the family,
the servants, our own people, and a few strangers ; a gracious
influence pervaded these opportunities, similar to that of which
we were sensible yesterday.
30th. Being rainy, we remained with our kind friends at
the Uitkomst, and spent most of the time in writing ; we had
also another agreeable opportunity of religious communication
with the family. Maria C. Van Zyl had injured her arm by
an accident before our arrival, and she was still feverish and
in great pain, nevertheless, she was unremitting in her atten-
tions. She was a woman of a lively spirit, and she reverted
with gratitude to the day in which travelling missionaries first
brought her evangelical hymns, and directed her attention to
the atoning blood of Christ, and to the work of the Holy
Spirit upon her heart. In her family devotions she often set
one of the coloured boys to read, or to give out a hymn,
either selecting one herself, or desiring them to select one,
in order to ascertain the bent of their minds. Though the
singing might not have pleased an ear critical in music, there
was much in it that might be recognized as agreeing with the
character of "singing with the spirit and with the under-
standing also."
31st. The unpropitious state of the weather for travelling
induced us still to remain at the Uitkomst. Maria C. Van
Zyl furnished us gratuitously with a stock of bread and flour,
which lasted us through most of the remainder of our jour-
ney, as well as with many other articles ; she subsequently
expressed great regret to a missionary, at having allowed us
to pay her for a sheep.
4th mo. 1st. The rain ceased at noon. The family here
allowed 14 of the surviving portion of our weaker cattle to
remain at this place till their strength was recruited. The
604 ALEXANDERS HOEK. [4th mO.
herdsman, contrary to the advice of his mistress, smoked Dak-
ka, which gave him a wild, phrenzied look ; he said he knew
it was wrong, but it had got the better of his resolution to
leave it off. Our herdsman left a cow under this man's care,
for which he gave his gun, at the Groene River, after having
carried it over his shoulder for several thousands of miles,
without ever having had occasion to use it to protect himself
from wild beasts. In going alone among the mountains after
the cattle, he was certainly more exposed than any of the rest
of the company : his preservation and many other signal
mercies, he rightly ascribed to the immediate protection of
the Most High. Our driver also disposed of his gun, so that
now we had not one connected with our establishment. In
the evening we again had some very comfortable rehgious
service with the family.
2nd. We purchased five additional oxen at about £3.
each, exchanged one of our horses, purchased another for £9.
and left another with the cattle. Had not the rain fallen,
most of those we took forward must also soon have died, and
we should have had much difficulty in getting our establish-
ment to Cape Town ; but vegetation now came forward rapidly,
and our hopes revived.
3rd. The weather having become fine we took our de-
parture. The son of our kind hostess yoked sixteen of his
oxen to our wagon, and drew it over a heavy sand for two
hours and a half, to near Rhinoster Fontein, where he took
leave of us ; we then proceeded two hours and a half further,
to the top of a sandy, bushy hill, crested with grotesque crags,
where we rested for the night.
4th. Conies abounded among the rocks where we spent
the night. A short ride brought us to Alexanders Hoek, the
farm of a Boor who received us kindly, made many inquiries
in regard to the principles of Friends, and invited us to hold
a meeting at his house. Here we met a trader who was also
civil and attentive ; he was an acquaintance of our driver, and
gave him some information respecting his family, of whom
he had not now heard, for several months ; he also attended
the meeting. — We rode three hours in the evening, and in
the dark outspanned by the side of the road, a privilege to
1840.] CAPE COLONY. 605
which travellers are considered to have a right, provided they
take proper care of their oxen.
5th. We rode, from necessity, to the outspan place, at
The Companys Drift, on the Bergvalei Rivier, Mountain-
valley River, laid down by mistake on some maps at Volvaarts,
on the Olifants Rivier. Here we had two devotional readings
with our people, and gave a few tracts to passers by, and to
a family residing at this place. We found no further opening
for religious service among these people, except in a few re-
marks in conversation. — A beautiful Chironia was in flower at
this place.
6th. The little stream called the Bergvalei Rivier, runs
through a valley clothed with short grass, chiefly of the genus
Cynodon, but it is sedgy in the wetter places. A large patch
of Bella-donna Lily, Amaryllis Belladonna, was in blossom
among the sedges : some of the flowers were white, and others
pink; the colour of the latter was more diff"used than in the
variety cultivated in Europe. The country was still very-
sandy ; from the Heerelogement to this place, it is called the
Zand Veld, Sand Field. In the evening we reached the Kruis
Rivier, Cross River, at the northern extremity of the Piquet-
berg. This was not a public outspan-place, but we were
kindly invited to remain here for the night, by a boor on
whose property we had stopped. The young men of the
family were busily occupied during a great part of the night,
in carting manure upon the land which was ready for plough-
ing, the heat of the day being too great for such employment.
At this place the Blue Water-lily was in flower.
7th. We had some conversation with the family and their
schoolmaster, on religious topics, and on other subjects im-
portant to man, but relating more to his temporal welfare ;
they accepted a few tracts gratefully. We next stopped at a
*' Public Outspan Place," aff"ording water and food for the
cattle. To accommodate the common mode of travelling, in
this country. Public Outspan Places are reserved, in granting
or selling government land. — To the west there were many
scattered farms, watered by streamlets from the adjacent moun-
tains, and by the Olifants Rivier. Rain with thunder pre-
vented our proceeding. As the place was bushy, our Bechuana
606 GROENE vALEi. [4th mo.
attendants soon erected a hut of branches and made them-
selves tolerably comfortable. Guinea-fowl were numerous
here.
8th. Thunder and rain compelled us to stop after travel-
ling about two hours and a half. The straps which fastened
the oxen to the yokes, and other parts of the draught appa-
ratus, made of skin, broke so frequently on becoming wet,
that much time was lost in repairing them. In the evening
we halted at Groene Valei, Green Valley, where there was
a large establishment belonging to a boor; we made the horses
fast to the wagon at night, lest they should get into the gar-
den, which was large and well stocked with Vines, Oranges,
Lemons, Guavas, Bananas, Figs, Mulberries, Chesnuts,
Peaches, and other fruit-trees. This place is under one of the
highest points of the Piquetberg, which is a sandstone moun-
tain, about 4,000 feet high. — Hamanthus coccineus, the Scarlet
Blood-flower, was plentifully in blossom in this part of the
country; several other plants of the Amaryllis tribe now
threw up their flower stems quickly ; among them the beau-
tiful Brunsvigia Josephina, called Marsbloem, March-flower,
with a large spreading head of deep-crimson, lily-like flowers,
was in blossom in some heathy places. The bulbs of some
of these plants are almost as large as a child^s head.
9th. The day was ushered in with a violent storm of wind
and thunder, which settled into a still, continuous rain ; it
prevented our travelling, and in a great degree cut off" com-
munication with the family on whose premises we were so-
journing.
10th. The rain being succeeded by genial sunshine, we
proceeded along a wide vale with rugged mountains on each
side ; we passed ten farms in five hours, in which we travelled
fifteen miles. A boor to whom we spoke expressed regret
that we were able to spend so little time with him ; and a
Bastaard, occupying a farm near the road for £4. 10*. a year,
complained that the neighbouring boors were very sharp with
him. Though this feeling was declining, it nevertheless pre-
vailed pretty generally. The cattle of a man of colour, even
though he might be of Dutch descent, were more readily im-
pounded than those of a white man ; and in many other little
1840.] CAPE COLONY. 607
points, the man of colour was annoyed ; and knowing that his
hue was contemned, he was very sensitive. — We outspanned
at night on a desolate waste, at a distance from the Piquet-
berg; it was however within sight of a neat, w^hite chapel,
where there w^ere occasional services of the Reformed Dutch
Church.
11th. By a misdirection, or a misunderstanding of a di-
rection, we took a wrong path, which brought us to a place,
where at a former period some other party had probably ar-
rived under like circumstances, as its name was Misverstaan,
Misunderstanding, Our route was consequently circuitous, but
this enabled us to distribute a few tracts satisfactorily. We
crossed the Berg Rivier, Mountain River, at Misverstaan, and
again at Riemhooghte, Z)r«^-sAoe Height; here we outspanned
near the house of a boor named Jacobus Marais, by whose
family we were kindly received. The road in this part of the
country was covered with small, angular, white, quartzose
gravel. Mica slate was visible in some of the watercourses.
To the east, we had the mountains of the Koud Bokkeveld,
Cold Buckfield, which are high, peaked, and deeply cleft, and
those of the Cardowbergen, which are lower, and have numer-
ous, deep kloofs ; out of these, streamlets issue, upon which
farms are situated. Much of the adjacent land was karroo, or
slaty moor; it was clothed with a small aromatic bush, called
Rosmarine, from its rosemary-like smell ; its taste was bitter
and like thyme. Though the Berg Rivier was now a little swol-
len, it was only about ankle-deep, and twenty yards wide at the
fords. A few Hippopotami are preserved by a boor residing
at the mouth of this river ; they are said to be so tame as to
come near the house of their protector; no others exist south
of the Orange River, on the West Coast.
12th. J. Marais^ family being gone to the "Nachtmaal,"
we spent the day very quietly with our own people.
13th. We prepared for a horseback journey to the towns
of Tulbagh and Worcester, and arranged for our wagon to
meet us at the Paarl.
14th. We called on some Boors, in the district called the
Twenty-four Rivers, on account of the number of times which
a clear stream, on a sandy or stony bed, and some of its
608 TULBAGH. [4th mo.
tributary branches, are crossed, in the bushy and grassy vale,
lying west of the Roodezandberg, Red Sand Mountain. Pur-
suing an easterly direction over some branches of the Kline
Berg Rivier, TMtle Mountain River, on which there were seve-
ral farms, we came suddenly on Tulbagh, which is a neat,
little town, of white houses, in Dutch style, forming one good
street, and a second one, incomplete. Here we received a
hearty welcome from G. A. and H. Zahn, of the Rhenish
Missionary Society, who had been apprised of our coming by
a letter from Wupperthal. The town of Tulbagh is prettily
situated, especially when viewed from the south ; but it is so
completely shut in by mountains, on three sides, and so far
up a long vale, that it is out of the road to any place, and
consequently, is not likely to increase much in size. The
coloured population, particularly those residing as servants
on the adjacent farms, had improved greatly in regard to
their religious state since their emancipation from slavery.
15th. We spent a little time in a school, conducted by
G. A. Zahn, on the plan of mutual instruction and interroga-
tion ; he had about fifty pupils, who were nearly the whole
of the children of the place, white and coloured : they were
well instructed on general subjects, and well grounded in
scriptural knowledge. At dinner, we met Arie Vos, an aged
Missionary of the London Missionary Society, and Robert
Shand, the minister of the Reformed Dutch Church. Robert
Shand was a native of Scotland, and a very conscientious
man ; he was greatly disliked by the nominal christians of
this neighbourhood, and as greatly esteemed by the pious.
At one period, he was suspended from his office, for refusing
to baptize the children of ungodly parents. In the evening,
we held a meeting for worship, in the chapel belonging to
the Rhenish Missionary Society. The congregation consisted
of white and coloured people ; it afforded a pleasing evidence
of the decay of unreasonable prejudices. Much freedom was
felt, in setting forth the great mercy of God to a sinful world,
in sending his beloved Son as a Saviour, and in continuing
to plead with them by his Holy Spirit. — The chapel in which
we assembled, was built for the instruction of the coloured
people, by the Dutch Missionary Society of the place ; but
1840.] CAPE COLONY. 609
they were so disturbed at the emancipation of the slaves, to
which class most of the coloured people here belonged, that
they sold the chapel.
16th. In the evening, we held a meeting for the promotion
of temperance; it was thinly attended. Little of open drunk-
enness is exhibited here, but the general consumption of
wine is considerable. No canteen exists in the town : for-
merly there was one, which was of very disorderly character,
but the people of the neighbourhood united and opened
another, which the farmers of the vicinity supplied with wine
and brandy of their own produce ; these were sold at a much
lower rate than the canteen-keeper could afford them at ; he
was therefore obliged to give up his business. When this
point was attained, the other canteen was also closed, but
with a notification, that it would immediately be re-opened
on any other person commencing business in the same
line.
17th. We rode to Worcester, distant about thirty-five
miles, through a vale between the Roodezand and Koud Bok-
keveld mountains ; there were several farms at a short dis-
tance from the road on both sides. About midway, we called
at one belonging to John Adam Neetling, by whom we were
kindly entertained. He expressed great pleasure on finding
that we could converse with him in Dutch. At Worcester,
we became the guests of J. H. and C. Kiilpmann, of the
Rhenish Missionary Society ; the latter was a daughter of
the late Michael C. Vos, who laboured diligently in the Gos-
pel in this part of the country. C. Kiilpmann took much
pains in endeavouring to raise her coloured servants into
good habits, and her kitchen was as clean and comfortable
as if it had belonged to a respectable family in England.
18th. Worcester, at this time, contained about 1,300 in-
habitants ; it was a rising town, of several streets, crossing at
right angles ; the houses were of brick and whitewashed. The
place was well watered from the Hex River, which, descend-
ing from the Bokkeveld mountains, was brought to the town
at a level, sufficiently high to irrigate the gardens and adja-
cent lands. The situation of the town is picturesque : it is
at the foot of some low, slate hills, upon a plain of about ten
Q Q
610 WORCESTER. [4th HIO.
miles across, inten^ening between the rugged mountains of
the Koud Bokkeveld and the Goudimie. Adjoining the town,
there was a plot of ground, granted by the Government to
the Dutch Missionary Society of this place ; with this So-
ciety, the Missionaries of the Rhenish Society here were
associated. The land was divided into small erfs or allot-
ments, which were occupied without ground-rent, by coloured
peojole, chiefly such as had been in slavery. These formed a
large proportion of the labouring population of the place, and
they had contributed liberally, some in money, and others in
labour, to the erection of the Mission-premises, which consisted
of a dwelling-house, school-house and chapel. The chapel
having proved too small for the congregation, after the eman-
cipation of the slaves, was undergoing enlargement. The rest
of the money required for this object was contributed by the
inhabitants generally, many of whom were Dutch. Though
temporarily annoyed by the emancipation of the slaves, the
Dutch wisely deferred acting upon the excitement, and were
now reconciled to continue their commendable care for the
coloured people. — Worcester lies on the high road from Cape
Town to the interior. — Mechanics' wages were from 2s. 3d,
to 6s. a day. — In the evening, we held a large meeting, which
was favoured with the divine overshadowing.
19th. As the place of worship belonging the Dutch
Church was open in the forenoon, the mission congrega-
tion consisted principally of coloured people, the number
of whom was considerable ; in the afternoon, the school-
room was crowded by a mixed company. On both occasions,
opportunity was afforded us to discharge our debt of christian
love. The coloured members of the mission-church, con-
sisting of eleven women and one man, were subsequently
addressed by G. W. Walker, who conveyed to them much
important counsel.
20th. In the forenoon, the Civil Commissioner went with
us over the Jail, in which there were fifty prisoners, about
half of whom were convicts working in irons ; fifteen untried
prisoners were in a large room, having stocks on the floor,
for security at night ; several of these men were ironed to
each other ! A few were confined in four cells, solitarily, or in
1S40.] CAPE COLONY. 611
pairs. The room in which some of the convicts slept, was a
very poor place ; a better had been erected, but it was not
yet ceiled. Another room, designed for an hospital, with
out-buildings for the jailor, &c. completed this estabhshment,
which had no inclosed yard. With all its defects, this was
one of the best prisons in the land. — The Drosdy-house stands
near the Jail ; it is a large pile of buildings only partially
finished, and is the residence of the Civil Commissioner ; it
was erected by Lord Charles Somerset, and is said to have
been intended for a summer residence for the Governor,
Worcester being cooler than Cape Town, and esteemed more
healthy in the hot weather. We also visited the school of
the Rhenish Missionary Society, in which there were 120
children, chiefly coloured. The attendance sometimes amount-
ed to 150 ; as most of the pupils were very young, it was con-
ducted principally on the infant-school system. In the even-
ing, a large, mixed congregation assembled in the schoolroom,
with whom we had a memorable opportunity, in setting forth
the importance of abstinence from intoxicating liquors, and
in commenting on the work of the Lord among the Coloured
People of this land, and on his judgments upon that portion
of the Whites, who, being too generally only formal christians,
were unwilling to loose the bonds of the oppressed, though
compelled by law to give up slavery, and who therefore
in spirit still cherished it, and in disgust with the Govern-
ment that had abolished it, were removing beyond the boun-
dary of the Colony, and subjecting themselves to great pri-
vations and sufferings. The people heard us attentively,
and bore our plain dealing jiatiently ; it was delivered in
love, with the assurance of our good-will. We were ena-
bled to make ourselves well understood in Dutch, so that
some remarked, that the Lord helped us ; and for this help,
we felt reverently thankful.
An awakening among the coloured people at Worcester
commenced about three years previous to our visit, with the
falling of an Aerolite on the adjacent part of the Bokkeveld ;
it was attended by an unusual, thunder-like noise, and other
accompaniments which caused some persons to think that
"the end of all things was at hand." This led some of them to
Q Q 2
612 BRAND VALEI. [4th HIO.
deep searching of heart, in regard to their fitness to meet the
Judge of all the earth. One woman, under strong conviction
of her sinfulness, fell down on the floor of her cottage, and be-
gan to pray fervently for mercy; her little boy, who attended
the mission-school, and had never before seen his mother in
the suppliant attitude, or heard her call on the Lord out of a
broken heart, ran to J. H. Kiilpmann, and begged him to go
to his mother, for she was praying : he obeyed the summons,
and found about a dozen others who had joined her, and
were also prostrate before the Lord. Joining his petitions
with theirs, he directed them to the Saviour of sinners, and
prayed, that this awakening might be blessed to their con-
version ; and the Lord was entreated for them, as the fruits
which they have since brought forth have proved. This awak-
ening spread, and though its first excitement had passed away,
the work was still gradually progressing. An aged Dutchman,
who was a man of a sweet, christian spirit, belonged to the
mission congregation here.
21st. We got our horses shod on arriving at Worcester;
they had been without shoes since our first arrival at the
Kamiesberg, and some of those we now had in use, had never
had shoes on till we arrived here ; the stony road from the
Berg Rivier to Tulbagh made their feet so tender, that they
could scarcely get along without shoes. Being now again in
order for travelling, we pursued our journey. Our road lay
across a fine, grassy plain called the Goudinne, over the
Breede Rivier, Broad River, and through a low pass in the
mountains, to Brand Valei, where there was a strong spring
of hot water ; the thermometer rose to 140° the instant it
was plunged into it. This spring may probably have given
the place its name, which signifies Burnt Valley: I could
not ascertain that any other indication of internal burning
existed in the neighbourhood. Planted Poplars, with grass,
sedges, a Caladium, and Zantedeschia athiopica, grow close
to the hot water. By the side of the Breede Rivier, a
pmk Heath was in blossom among the rushy herbage ; being
spread in extensive patches, it revived pleasantly the recollec-
tions of an English Common. The valleys in this part of
the country, are extensive, grassy and well supplied with
1840.] CAPE COLONY. 613
water. In sandy places, they are bushy, producing Heaths,
Proteas, and other striking shrubs, with various species of
Oxalis, Hypoxis, Gladiolus, Anthericum, &c. which render
these less fruitful spots, more gay than those of more value.
After a short stop at Brand Valei, we proceeded to the house
of a Boor named Jacobus de Wet, where we were kindly
received. J. de Wet was blind ; he was a man of feeling,
and alive to the impolicy of slavery, as well as to the superior
advantages of free labour ; his wife was a woman of lively
zeal and piety, and there were also several other pious per-
sons in the family. We spent a little time with them very
pleasantly, but except in conversation, and the distribu-
tion of a few tracts, did not see it our place to enter into
religious labour among them, although opportunity was not
lacking. We took leave of these kind people, and reached
the house of a Field-cornet, named de Villiers, on a branch
of the Zondereinde Rivier, where we obtained comfortable
lodging and refreshment, and had much conversation with
the large family, who received some tracts gratefully, as did
also some other Boors, whose houses we passed on the road.
At this place, there were about forty white persons, and a
much larger number of coloured ; they were chiefly the fa-
mily of P. H. de Villiers, and persons employed in his
service : he had a large flour-mill, driven by water, and was
extensively engaged in farming, &c. He made some sensible
remarks on the desirableness of the situation for a village,
and on the great want of schools and places of worship in
various parts of the Colony. Here, the distance from both
was about twenty miles, and the population in the vicinity
was considerable ; in many districts, people are 150 miles
from such places of instruction.
22nd. Our host took pay for the forage of our horses, but in
consideration of the nature of our visit, he would not receive
anything for our own entertainment : one of his neighbours,
who had refused to sell his wheat at a price higher than usual,
for conscience^ sake, when it was scarce in the country, remark-
ed to G. W. Walker, that it would be well if more such visits
were paid in the Colony. The early part of our ride to-day
was through a fine valley, bounded by magnificent mountains,
Q Q 3
614 FRANSCiiE HOEK. [4th mo.
which give rise to several of the rivers of this part of the
Colony. We crossed several small branches of the Zonder-
einde before ascending the kloof, called Fransche Hoek Pas,
French Corner Pass, at the entrance of which there is a house
of entertainment for travellers, where a small toll is paid for
the maintenance of the mountain road. This pass requires
about two hours on horseback to traverse it ; it is cut in the
sides of exceedingly steep mountains ; the ascent is easy ;
the highest point may be 2,000 feet. Some of the rocks are
argillaceous, others quartzose, and some are sandstone ;
among them there are a few veins of basalt. These moun-
tains are clothed with cyperaceous and restiacious rushes.
Heaths, Proteas, and Everlastings. Nerine sarniensis, the
Guernsey Lily, and Nerine crispa, an allied species, were scat-
tered among the herbage, and were exhibiting their beautiful
blossoms.
The clouds rested on the tops of the mountains most of
the day, and protected us from the sun. Numerous white
houses interspersed among the vineyards and the plantations of
Orange, Oak, and Pine, broke pleasantly upon our view, after
passing the greatest elevation of the mountain. At Fransche
Hoek, we became the guests of the Field-cornet, De Hugo,
whose house was open for the accommodation of travellers.
Finding on our arrival here, that a meeting, held weekly at
the house of a widow, about three miles distant, fell in course
to-day, we immediately went thither, in company with Jaco-
bus Verhaag, a Missionary belonging the Reformed Dutch
Church ; we found twenty-three persons assembled. I ad-
dressed them briefly at the close of the meeting, not feeling
that much was given me to communicate. After the meeting,
we returned to Fransche Hoek. A son of the Field-cornet,
De Hugo, came over the Fransche Hoek Pass to-day, by a
footpath which takes a different course to the carriage-road ;
he was attended by a coloured youth and a dog ; a leopard
came from among the rocks ; it crouched, and seemed de-
signing to spring upon him, when the dog seized it. The
animals struggled together, and the leopard escaped, and re-
treated amongst the rocks. The young man thought that it
was old and weak, or it would have killed the dog, and that
1840.] CAPE COLONY. 615
it was pressed by hunger, or it would not have attempted the
attack.
23rd. Rain confined us to the house most of the day. In
the afternoon, we met a congregation of coloured people in
the chapel, where they assembled regularly on Fifth-day even-
ings, and First-day mornings, to the number of about 150 ;
twelve had been received as members ; several of them were
considered decidedly pious, and others hopeful. The rain
occasioned the attendance to-day to be small ; we felt much
freedom in speaking to them on the necessity of attending to
the convictions of the Holy Spirit, and of believing in Jesus,
and walking in his commandments.
24th. Continued rain rendered any other occupation than
such as could be attended to in the house, impracticable. In
the evening, the weather became fair, and we had the com-
pany of J. Verhaag and P. de Bier ; the latter of whom was
the teacher of a school at this place. We conversed with them
on the principles of Friends, and on the state of the people of
Amboyna and Timor, among whom J. Verhaag, at one period,
spent some time in endeavouring to improve their religious
state, but he apprehended it was to little profit : he described
their condition as being very low, and said, that the Roman
Catholic Missionaries among them would tell them, that when
they had brought them plenty of sandal-wood, they would
pray with them ; that they thus made merchandise of their
pretensions to religion. We had also some conversation on
the prejudices of the old colonists of this country, which
were still very strong, notwithstanding they were giving way.
Few of them would allow their own children to learn Geo-
graphy in the school, because they esteemed it an unnecessary
attainment, notwithstanding it was taught in some of the
mission-schools, to the Hottentots- Independently of a First-
day school, the coloured people here received instruction from
P. de Bier, twice in the week. Many of his pupils were
making a little progress in spelling, but there was such a dis-
position among them to remove from place to place, that few
of them remained long enough to make any considerable
advancement.
25th. Our kind host, Daniel De Hugo, from whom, and
616 PAARL. [4th mo.
from whose wife and family we have received much hospi-
table attention, declined accepting any payment for our en-
tertainment ; he merely charged for the forage of our horses,
which he had himself purchased. We set out after dinner to
the Paarl, three hours ride distant. The road lies along a
sandy valley, with many pretty vineyards at the foot of the
mountains, on both sides. On approaching the Paarl, we
once more obtained a view of Table Mountain, at the foot of
which Cape Town is situated ; this sight raised feelings of
thankfulness in our hearts to Him who led us forth, and had
crowned us with many mercies, and had brought us thus far
on our way in safety. On arriving at the Paarl, we found our
people there, and in good health ; but another ox had died on
the road. A hearty welcome awaited us from George Barker,
of the London Missionary Society, and from his daughters. The
Paarl, Pearl, is situated at the foot of an elevated, isolated,
granite hill, with large, convex-topped rocks projecting from
its summit ; among these, there are Aloes, and other plants ;
the sides of the hills are bushy, and afford pasturage ; they
produce various shrubs of the genus Protea. The popula-
tion of the town was about 4,000 ; the houses are in Dutch
style, whitewashed, and interspersed among oak, pine, and
other trees, growing in the streets, between which there are
orchards and vineyards. It is a pretty town, and has a fine
view of the sandstone and slate mountains of Drakenstein,
Dragon-stone, to the east, under which there are many neat
farmhouses, with vineyards and orchards.
26th. We attended meetings for the coloured people in
the morning and evening, in a chapel belonging to the Paarl
Auxiliary to the London Missionary Society, which is supported
by the Dutch inhabitants, who find a house for the Missionary,
and pay a female teacher for keeping a school in the chapel
five mornings and two evenings in the week, with the coloured
people. We had free opportunity of expressing our christian
concern for this interesting class of the inhabitants. The
congregation often amounted to about 400 ; the number who
assembled to-day was rather less, many being alarmed lest
they should come in the way of Small-pox infection. A
case or two of this disease had lately occurred here j it was
1840.] CAPE COLONY. 617
prevalent and very fatal in Cape Town. In the afternoon, we
visited the school of the coloured people, held in the Infant
School-room of the London Missionary Society, which was
large and commodious. After the forenoon meeting, we ac-
companied George Barker to the prison ; it was a hired
building, with four large cells, and two small rooms. There
were eight prisoners, principally committed for petty offences.
This is a subordinate prison to that at Stellenbosch, which is
the district town.
27th. We visited the Infant-school, and a private school;
the pupils in the latter were the children of the white inhab-
itants, who were almost exclusively of Dutch or French ex-
traction. Many refugees from France took shelter from
persecution, in this part of Africa, and intermarried with the
families of the old Dutch settlers. We called on Major H.
Piers, the resident magistrate. He was an intelligent, upright
man, disposed to give the coloured people the full benefit of
the protection of British law, which, from long-rooted pre-
judice, it was still difficult to secure to them. We had a
meeting in the evening in the Infant School-room with a num-
ber of the white and coloured population : the former, with
a few exceptions, seemed a little shy of us ; they were unwil-
ling to meet us in the chapel, notwithstanding they did not
object to our preaching there to the coloured people. On
this occasion, we had an open opportunity of setting forth
the necessity of repentance, and of a practical faith in Christ;
and we understood that the fears of some, who had looked
upon us suspiciously, were removed.
28th. We arranged for our wagon to meet us at Stel-
lenbosch, took leave of our kind friends at the Paarl, and
again crossing the Berg Rivier, proceeded to Wagonmakers
Valley, situated at the foot of the Groene Berg, Green Moun-
tain, and inhabited by a considerable number of wine-farmers,
whose vineyards and orange groves extended for three or
four miles along a mountain rivulet, upon which the village
of Wellington is situated. At the upper end of the valley,
we met a cordial welcome from Isaac and Magdalena Bisseux,
of the Paris Missionary Society, who occupied a house con-
tiguous to a chapel, both of which were erected by the Dutch
618
WAGONMAKERS VALLEY.
[4th mo.
population, who are here likewise intermixed with the French
refugees. The Mission Premises are represented in the an-
nexed cut.
aSRagonmafecrs "FalleiJ, ^aris JBtissionars Station.
29th. The religious labours at Wagonmakers Valley com-
menced with a person named Van Zulg, who was stationed
in the neighbourhood as a schoolmaster, and visiter of the
sickj about forty years ago, and who preached with much suc-
cess, both to the white and coloured people. Traces of the
good effect of his labours are yet conspicuous among both
classes. In the afternoon, we had a meeting for the white
inhabitants, some of whom were pious ; several of the co-
loured people were also present ; in the evening, we had one
for the coloured, which was attended by some of the white.
Both were seasons of divine favour, in which much close
counsel, as well as christian instruction, were imparted. Eleven
of the coloured people were members of this little church,
exclusive of some who had removed to other places, and four-
teen could read. A congregation of white people assembled
here on First-days, once in the day.
30th. The early part of the day was foggy. When the
mist cleared off, we proceeded on our journey. We passed
northward of an isolated mountain called Paardeberg, Horse
Mountain, and west of one called Riebeeks Kasteel, Riebeeks
Castle, and travelled over an argillaceous, but rather sandy
country, on which grain was pretty extensively cultivated,
and where ploughing was in progress in some places, and the
wheat had come up in others. In the afternoon, we reached
1840.] CAPE COLONY. G19
Malmesbury, formerly called Zwartland Kerk. J. D. A. Freis-
lich, the Clerk of the Peace, to whom we had an introduc-
tion, from C. C. de Villiers, of the Paarl, kindly invited us to
take our meals at his house, and obtained a bed for us at the
house of a neighbour. The white houses of Malmsbury give
the place a pretty appearance, but there are few trees about
it, so that, though situated among hills, it has little pictu-
resque beauty. The inhabitants appeared to be thoroughly
taken up with their temporal concerns.
5th mo. 1st. We obtained leave to invite the inhabitants
to meet us in the schoolroom, but could get none to come ;
we were therefore obliged to be content with conversing with
a few whom we casually met, and with giving them some
tracts. The people seemed to have little relish for religious
subjects, and to be jealous of us. We looked over the jail,
which Avas a temporary one, and over a new building de-
signed for a prison, in wliich it was intended to form a few
cells, under the same roof with some Government Offices.
Finding no opening for further service, we set off for
Groene Kloof, Green Valley, where we arrived in three hours
and a half. On the way, we traversed a wide, sandy flat,
crossed a low range of granite hills, and passed a few farms,
at which we left tracts. It was pleasant to come again among
people whose hearts were warmed by christian love, and to
receive such a brotherly welcome as the Moravian Mission-
aries gave us, one of whom we had before seen at Genadendal.
2nd. We walked with Ludwig Teutsch over the settle-
ment, which is represented in the annexed etching, and on
which there were about 1,000 Hottentots and other coloured
people. They lived in two wide streets, with gardens between
the rows of houses ; one of the streets extended far to the
right beyond the limit of the sketch. A man of orderly con-
duct coming here, and agreeing to observe the rules of the
place, was allowed as much garden-ground as he could work;
but if, at the end of two years, he had not cultivated any that
had been assigned to him, it fell again to the Institution. Many
of the people had also considerable pieces of corn-land at a
short distance ; some of their fields extended up a neigh-
bouring mountain. Their first habitations were usually of
620 GROENE KLOOF. [5th mo.
rushes ; they next built hartebeest houses of better quality ;
and many had superseded these by neat, comfortable cottages,
well built and thatched. Many of them not only cultivated
their own land, but worked among the Boors of the neigh-
bourhood, from whom they obtained wages. This station
was made over by the Government, to the Moravians in
1808, as a missionary place for the Hottentots, &c. Before
that time, it was successively occupied as a hunting-station
for the Governor, and a depositary for salt. Several of the
original buildings were still standing, and others had been
added, among which was a commodious chapel. The estate
was 4,606 morgens, or nearly 9,200 acres.
3rd. There were several services in the chapel. A meeting
in the evening was chiefly occupied by George W. Walker
and myself, in exhortation, under the desire that the people
might attain to a spiritual knowledge of Christianity. Few
children were present; but the congregation amounted to
about 600. In this country, many white people are mis-
named christians, in contradistinction from the coloured, who
are generally styled Heathens, or Schepsels, Creatures. We
were grieved to see three such white persons of English and
Dutch descent, who had stopped on their journey, and claimed
the hospitality of the Moravians, sitting on chairs which they
brought out of the house into the yard, in a lounging and
disrespectful way, as the coloured people were going to and
from their public worship ; from this, these misnamed chris-
tians, with a single exception, at the morning service, ab-
sented themselves ; not, it was evident, from conscientious
objections to the forms used, for they were not in a state of
mind to have conscientious objections on such a subject.
The Moravians here have often to bear with such misconduct,
and they appear to bear with it very patiently.
4th. We visited the schools, into which English had lately
been introduced ; in the girls' school there were 80 pupils ;
some of them had made so much progress as to read a little
in the Scriptures, in English, and to translate what they read
into Dutch ; they were in the school three hours in the fore-
noon. The boys attended the school in the afternoon ; 60
were on the list ; but they were so much engaged in feeding
1840.] CAPE COLONY. G21
cattle, and in other rural occupations, that the attendance was
usually much below that number. In the infant-school there
were 140 children, for which number the schoolroom was
much too small. The members of the church were about
300. — To-day there was a feast, entirely a religious service,
celebrated by the single sisters ; it was in commemoration of
the 110th anniversary of the time when a number of single
women gave themselves in an especial manner to the Lord ;
this circumstance originated the Moravian body. — Groene
Kloof, from its name, gives the expectation of a deep valley
of much verdure; but is merely a shallow, sandy hollow,
among some low, bare, granite hills ; it has however the ad-
vantage of a good supply of water, for this part of the world,
and of a small wood of planted Poplar, which supplies useful
timber ; it is also ornamented with Weeping Willows. Some
Aloes, and other striking plants, grow among the granite
rocks, and the neighbourhood is famous for the gaiety of its
bulbous-rooted flowers. — After partaking of an early dinner,
and receiving a parcel of food for our journey, we parted from
the affectionate Moravian Missionaries, and pursued our
journey over a sandy country, terminating in a few rounded
hills of more clayey character, among which there were seve-
ral farms. We had a view of Cape Town, with Table Bay,
from one part of the road ; this was very agreeable, though
we could not but look upon it with mixed feelings, on account
of the ravages which we heard the small-pox was making among
the inhabitants. — We reached D'Urban, which was formerly
called Pompoen Kraal, in the evening ; here we were unable
to obtain a shelter for the night, which was raw and cold,
and after spending about two hours in seeking a lodging, dur-
ing which we called at every house except one in the place,
we were under the necessity of remounting our wearied horses,
and proceeding to Stellenbosch. Coming from Groene Kloof
to D^Urban, was like making a transition from the torrid
to the frigid zone ; we however, left a few tracts at D'Urban,
hoping to kindle a more fervid spirit, and then pursued our
weary way over a heavy, sandy road. On reaching Stellen-
bosch we again met with kindness; notwithstanding we
had occasion to call two persons out of bed to give us
622 STELLENBOSCii. [5th mo.
information at so unseasonable an hour, they were very civil ;
and certainly there is much truth in the sentiment expressed
on one of the school copies used in my boyhood, *' Civihty
gains respect." One of these persons got up and went with
us to the Wesleyan Mission House, where, though after mid-
night, our kind friends Edward Edwards and his wife arose,
gave us a warm greeting, and a refreshing cup of tea, and
welcomed us to the accommodations which their house af-
forded.
5 th. Our wagon arrived from the Paarl, where another ox
was left in a dying state. — Stellenbosch is a pretty town ; it
had at this time about 200 houses, and 1,500 inhabitants ; it
is situated at the foot of a rugged-topped mountain, detached
from the main range ; the streets have on each side, a row of
fine oak trees. The principal part of the houses were built
in Dutch style and white-washed. The cottages of the co-
loured people were numerous and neat ; they formed a pleas-
ing feature of the place. The coloured people were neatly
clad ; they were a very orderly part of the community, and
formed the principal portion of the labourers and servants
in the town. The Wesleyans had lately erected a neat chapel
contiguous to the mission-house ; they had a daily school,
taught by a young man who had a tinge of colour ; the num-
ber of pupils to-day was upwards of fifty. The Rhenish
Missionary Society had also a chapel and school here.
6th. We called on the Rhenish Missionaries, Paulus Daniel
LiickhoiF, Johannes George Knab, and Johan Daniel Andreas,
who occupied premises provided by the Dutch inhabitants for
a mission to the coloured people ; here we met Pieter Alber-
tyn of the Paarl, an agreeable young man, and free from the
Neologian heresy, with which many of the Dutch ministers
in this part of the Cape Colony are defiled. This heresy cuts
away the vital part of Christianity, and is evidently the subter-
fuge of men of unregenerate minds, who for filthy lucre's sake
have undertaken to teach the Gospel before having learned
it ; they therefore reduce the character and offices of Christ
to the standard of the comprehension of the human capacity
darkened by sin; the doctrines of the forgiveness of sin through
faith in the atoning blood of Christ, of an experimental peace
1840.J CAPE COLONY. 623
and communion with God, through the mediation of a glo-
rified Redeemer, and of submission to the sanctifying influ-
ences, or renewings, of the Holy Ghost, have no place with
them ; they cannot understand them, because these things
are spiritually discerned, and they themselves are yet carnal.
— In the evening I addressed a few coloured people in the
Wesleyan chapel.
7th. We dined with the Rhenish Missionaries after visit-
ing their schools, one of which was an Infant School ; the
other was for older children : in each of them there were
100 pupils, who were well taught by two of the Mission-
aries : the children were of the coloured class. We also
looked into the chapel, which was undergoing a third en-
largement since the emancipation of the slaves. The desire
manifested by this class, for religious instruction, was great
and increasing, now that it was within their own power to
attend places of worship. The provision to satisfy this desire
made by the Dutch inhabitants of this place was very cre-
ditable to them. In the evening we again had the oppor-
tunity of addressing a few of the coloured people in the
Wesleyan chapel.
8th. In the evening we accompanied the Rhenish Mis-
sionaries to their chapel, where upwards of 200 coloured
adults were assembled as a school. All the congregations
were at this time diminished by the small-pox. The school
service was suspended to give us the opportunity of speaking
to the pupils on several important subjects, and the occasion
at length assumed a decidedly religious character, in which
the overshadowing of the love of our Heavenly Father was
felt in a comforting degree.
9th. We visited the jail, four large cells of which opened
into a small yard; in one of these, four Englishmen Avere
waiting for trial, and in another, four coloured men. A pas-
sage to four solitary cells opened into the same yard ; in one
of these there was a coloured man under a few days' sentence.
Fifteen convicts working on the roads were lodged in a small,
square room, and in two or three cells opening into the street.
A few persons were out on bail, working for their sureties.
Crime had not increased since the emancipation 3 commitments
624 STELLENBOSCH, [5th mo.
for misdemeanours had become much less frequent ; but
those for petty thefts were more numerous. Masters would
now bring a servant before a magistrate, where, had the serv-
ant been a slave, he would merely have received some chas-
tisement from his master, who would thus have avoided the
loss of the slaveys labour consequent on sending him to pri-
son ; this loss now fell upon the servant, in the forfeiture of
the opportunity of earning wages. — We called on J. Versfeld,
a descendant of Persoon the celebrated botanist ; he showed
us a fragment of the aerolite which fell upon the Bokkeveld,
mentioned on the 20th of 4th mo. it appeared to be of the
same constituents as other meteoric stones. We likewise
called on a pious widow, named Allison, who seemed to have
great comfort in having several of her children labouring in
the vineyard of her dear Lord and Master ; she was the mo-
ther of James Allison of Imparani.
10th. In the forenoon we were favoured with an oppor-
tunity of discharging a debt of christian love to the portion
of coloured people assembling in the Wesleyan chapel, and
to a large congregation of white and coloured in the chapel
of the Rhenish Missionaries ; many of the Dutch assembled
with the coloured people, in this chapel, on First-day after-
noons, the minister of the Dutch Church holding service only
in the forenoon. On both of these occasions the congrega-
tions were smaller than usual, in consequence of the prevail-
ing sickness; nevertheless about 150 persons were present
in the morning, and 500 in the afternoon. In the evening
nearly all the English residing in the town, amounting to
about sixty, assembled in the Wesleyan chapel, where, on
First-day evenings, Edward Edwards usually preached in
their native tongue, to the few who met. On this occasion a
special invitation had been given ; and we were strengthened
to plead with them on the danger of neglecting the things
that belong to salvation, as well as to set before them the
mercy of God in Christ Jesus, with the language of entreaty
to be reconciled unto God. We had also a parting interview
with some of the coloured people. In the labours of this
day, we had great cause to bless the Lord for his goodness,
in strengthening us to direct the people to the convictions
1840.] CAPE COLONY. G25
and guidance of his good Spirit, and to testify, that it is
through this blessed Guide that the Father draws unto the
Son, grants the evidence of forgiveness of sin through faith
in him, and enables men to walk in his commandments
blameless.
11th. Notwithstanding the day was humid, we rode with
Edward Edwards to Klip Fontein, Rock Fountain, where he
was in the practice of holding a weekday service. On the
way, we spoke to one of the Juvenile Emigrants ; he, like
some others of this class, whom we had lately met, had lost
his own language. He seemed as if beclouded in intellect.
In country situations, the Juvenile Emigrants were made the
companions of the agricultural poor, who were generally Hot-
tentots, unused to anything which an Englishman would call
comfort. The Hottentots are associated in families, sometimes
several together, so that a little Hottentot generally has his
parents and relations to protect and befriend him, but the
little emigrants were friendless and solitary : their situation
was certainly far from what those who promoted their emigra-
tion, intended. It has been remarked, and not without jus-
tice, that, during their apprenticeship, the situation of the
Juvenile Emigrants was, in some respects, worse than that
. of slaves, and hardly so good as that of the Hottentots be-
fore the passing of the Fiftieth Ordinance, which secured
to them the privileges of British subjects. The property
which a man had in his slave, induced him to take care of
him, as he would of his horse, and for the same reason; and
the Hottentot always had friends of his own race and lan-
guage ; but to the Juvenile Emigrant, both of these circum-
stances were wanting. — Klip Fontein is about eighteen miles
from Stellenbosch, on the sandy Cape Downs, or Flats. A
few coloured families were located here on Government land :
having no title to this property, they made but little im-
provement, but by means of their cattle and little gardens,
they obtained a livelihood. Here the Wesleyans had erected
a little chapel, and cultivated piety in the wilderness. About
the time of the slave emancipation, some prejudiced per-
sons spread calumnious reports of the coloured people re-
siding on the Cape Flats, which gained so much credence
R R
C)26 CAPE coLONV. [5th mo.
with the Government, as to induce it to deliberate upon ex-
pelUng them. The Wesleyans took up the subject, proved
the fallacy of the charges brought against these poor people,
and expostulated against the injustice and cruelty of driving
them off; some of them had been located here for eighteen
years, with the cognizance of the Government ; they were
also a security to travellers, in passing this weary wilderness
of sandhills and low bushes. — At Klip Fontein E. Edwards
vaccinated several children, and two young Afrikanders, who
afterwards joined us along with the coloured people in the
chapel. We had a short, but satisfactory meeting with them,
in which the judgments of the Lord, as exhibited in the pre-
sent visitations of sickness in the land, were alluded to, and
pointed out as a means designed to lead sinners to seek sal-
vation. Here we parted from our kind friend, Edward
Edwards, who returned to Stellenbosch. Two hours and a
half of dreary, wet riding from Klip Fontein, brought us to
Cape Town, where we received several greetings in riding
along the streets. We became lodgers in the family of Thomas
Thwaits, in which we were inmates when before in Cape
Town. Soon after our arrival, we received a packet of letters
from our dear relatives and friends in England, which were
very comforting at the conclusion of a journey of nineteen
months through the wilds of South Africa.
CHAPTER XXXV.
Friends' School. — Wees Huis. — Matilda Smith. — Purchase of Premises. — Trans-
fer Duty. — Visit to Rondebosch. — Return of Motingo and Seberioe to the
Kuruman. — Tract on Salvation. — Sir G. T. Napier. — Military Temperance
Meeting. — A Word of Christian Counsel to the Wliite Inhabitants of South
Africa. — L. Marquard. — Winter. — Visit to the Jail. — A Christian Exhortation
to the Coloured Inhabitants of South Africa. — Measles and Small Pox. — South
African Tract Association. — Visit to the Penal Settlement on Robben Island.
— Observations addressed to Missionaries, &c. — Occupation of the School Pre-
mises, in Buiten Street. — Police. — Meetings. — Amsterdam Battery. — Meeting
in Dorp Street. — Sailors Home. — Emigration. — Presents to the Missionary
Stations. — Prospect of leaving South Africa. — Labours of Missionaries. — De-
parture of G. W. Walker for Van Diemens Land.— Union of J. B. & G. W. W.
in their visit to the Southern Hemisphere.
On returning to Cape Town, we were so much exhausted as
not to be equal to great exertion, for several weeks ; but we
were favoured to gain strength, by care and regular exercise ;
we were also enabled to attend to such things as we appre-
hended to be our religious duty.
Some of our friends in England had interested themselves
respecting the establishment of a school for children of the
poorer class, in Cape Town ; the obtaining of suitable pre-
mises and the settling of a master and mistress in them were
left to us.
5th mo. 22nd. I purchased a house which had been erected
for a school-house, near the junction of Buiten Street with
Long Street. This situation appeared to be very eligible for
the projected school, being open and elevated. The ground
on which the school-house stood, formerly belonged to an in-
stitution called the Wees Huis, Orphan House, which was in-
stituted, principally, by a pious woman named Matilda Smith,
who sympathized deeply with the Coloured People of this
Colony, and with those who laboured for their amelioration.
R R 2
028 CAPE TOWN. [5th mo.
The property intended for the support of the Wees Huis had
proved inadequate for the purpose, and a portion of the ground
adjacent to the house, had consequently been sold off. In
the change of hands it now reverted to the improvement of
the class of persons for whom this benevolent individual
originally designed it. — In the Cape Colony a certain duty
is paid on all transfers of property ; in this case the Gover-
nor remitted the duty, so long as the premises should be used
for a school for children of the poorer class, supported by the
voluntary subscriptions of persons in England ; but the duty
was to be paid up, if at any future period the premises should
be sold for any other purpose. The purchase money was
£1050.
24th. We visited a person at Rondebosch, who had separated
from all religious communities, on account of the abridgment
of christian privilege, in those churches with which he was
acquainted, in regard to the exercise of gifts in the ministry,
as well as on account of the lordship over God's heritage, in
which he saw that those persons were placed, who were in
the ministerial office, in congregations in which the ministry
was made a monopoly, by being limited to one man, contrary
to the instructions of the apostles, in 1 Corinthians xiv. and
1 Peter v. 3. This person assembled his own family and do-
mestics, and conducted worship among them according to his
own views. On our being with them, they spent some time
in silence, after having been engaged in reading the Scriptures
and in singing, accompanied by instrumental music. Under
a fresh feeling of what I believed to be the constraining influ-
ence of the Saviour's love, I directed their attention to the im-
portance of seeking after an experimental feeding upon Christ,
who is still known by those who are reconciled unto God
through him, to be " the bread of life," satisfying the hunger
of the soul ; these also know the Holy Spirit, sent in the name
of Christ, to be " the gift of God," and to be " in them a well
of water springing up unto everlasting life." — I had also to
speak of the necessity of allowing " the day of the Lord to
be upon everything in man, which is proud and lofty, that it
may be brought low," in order that " the Lord alone may be
exalted," and may become unto us " a place of broad rivers
1840.] CAPE COLONY. 62&
and streams," for our continual refreshment; that the activity
of man, without the putting forth of Christ, may be so sub-
dued that it shall ^' not go therein as a galley with oars," nor
shall his pride, as " a gallant ship, pass thereby ;" but the
Lord may be known to be our Judge, our Lawgiver, and our
King, and his power may be experimentally felt to save us.
27th. Two Missionaries of the Paris Missionary Society
sailed for Algoa Bay, on board the Queen Victoria, schooner,
on their way to the Bechuana country. The young men
who came with us from the Kuruman, returned with them.
They conducted themselves agreeably while in our employ-
ment. Motingo supported his christian character very con-
sistently, and acquired some knowledge of the Dutch lan-
guage. Seberioe had had more advantages in regard to the
acquirement of knowledge, and he appeared to appreciate in-
creasingly the principles of the Gospel. Neither of them
seemed fully to understand the value of money. When I spoke
to Seberioe about paying him his wages, according to the rate
agreed upon before he set out, he said he wished to have a
few articles, which he named, but that he should not ask much
money. These articles were not of more value than one-
fourth of his wages. We, however, gave them their money,
with instructions as to its use, in purchasing sheep on the
Frontier. Not having been on the water before, they were
rather timid, but they said they were willing to go by sea, if
I would go on board the vessel with them. To this, I readily
consented ; when I parted from them, they appeared com-
fortable, but the separation was felt on both sides.
30th. We made some arrangements respecting the printing
of a version of the tract on Salvation, Appendix C. in the
Susutu ; into this dialect of the Sechuana, it had been
translated by Thomas Arbousset, of Morija, for the benefit
of the people of the Basutu nation. This version was en-
titled, " TopoUo e entsoeng ki Yesu Kereste." Subsequently,
the same tract was translated into CaiFer by Richard Haddy,
of Wynberg, who kindly undertook this labour. After the
translation had been revised by Henry Dugmore, of Mount
Coke, in CaflFraria, a large edition was printed in Cape Town,
and distributed among the Missionary Stations in Caifraria,
R R 3
630 CAPE TOWN. [6th mo.
The Caflfer version was entitled, " Ukukululeka Gu Jesusi
Kirisitusi, " Salvation btj Jesus Christ.
6th mo. 1st. We had an interview with Sir George T.
Napier, the Governor of the Colony, who kindly invited us
to throw before him our views on any subjects which might
have arrested our attention, in connexion with the welfare of
the Colony, and of the native tribes, beyond its Frontier.
This made way for some communication on these subjects,
which it was very relieving to our minds, to be able thus to
bring under the notice of the chief authority in the Colony ;
some of our suggestions were promptly acted upon. In the
course of our sojourn in Cape Town, we received much kind
notice from Sir George and Lady Napier, and were a few
times guests at their table.
10th. We attended a Temperance Meeting in the Military
Barracks. This was the only Temperance Meeting at this
time kept up in Cape Town. We were present at it several
times subsequently. It was attended occasionally by the mili-
tary chaplain, by Dr. Philip, and by James Smeeth, a
Wesleyan Missionary. Some of the soldiers occasionally ad-
dressed the meeting on the importance of abstinence from
intoxicating liquors. The sergeant-major of the castle in-
formed us, that on an examination of military punishments,
here, for about three years, ninety-seven out of 100 cases
appeared to have resulted directly, or indirectly, from the
effects of strong drink.
11th. I commenced the essay of a tract, entitled, "A
Word of Christian Counsel to the White Inhabitants of South
Africa, " under a continued exercise of mind for the wel-
fare of this class of the inhabitants. In this, as well as in
some other exercises of a similar character, my companion
felt so much of the same kind of pressure of spirit with my-
self, that after I had committed to writing what impressed me
he revised the essay, and made additions. We then mutually
examined the whole, and signed it jointly. This tract is
given in Appendix E. It was translated into Dutch by
Leopold Marquard, a pious man, by profession a teacher
of languages, who was useful in visiting the prisons, and in
imparting religious instruction to the coloured people.
1840.] CAPE COLONY. 631
12th. The weather had lately been cloudy ; this morning
it became clear, and exposed to view the mountains of the
Koud Bokkeveld, the tops of which were covered with snow.
This was the first snow we had seen this winter. In the val-
leys there was the greenness of spring. Several plants were
in flower among the hills in the immediate vicinity of Cape
Town ; among them were some gay species of Wood Sorrell,
Oxalis, of various colours, a blue Trichonema, resembling a
Crocus, three species of Gladiolus, a Babiana, a Podalyria, an
Indigofera, Stapelia variegata, Protea melifera, and many
other plants and shrubs, such as are frequently met with in
English greenhouses. Snow was generally to be seen on the
mountains for the next three months.
14th. We visited the prisoners in the jail ; the number
was but small. Convicts in the Cape Colony are either sent
to a penal settlement on Robben Island, in Table Bay,
or work in irons upon the roads. The prisoners, who were
chiefly coloured people, were assembled in a clean, little
room, used as a chapel. We spoke to them upon the im-
portance of communing with their own hearts before the
Lord, and pointed out to them, the manner in which, for
want of this practice, a large proportion of the human race
not only fall into sin, but continue to live in transgression
against God, instead of seeking to be reconciled unto him
through Jesus Christ. Most of these people understood
something of English, in which we addressed them ; but
feeling pressed in spirit, to speak to them in Dutch, I yielded
to this feeling. This was not only a great relief to the exer-
cise of my own mind, but subsequently the sense of divine
influence spread much more powerfully over the company.
24th. A debt of christian love to the coloured inhabitants
of South Africa, resting on our minds, we addressed to them
*' A Christian Exhortation. " This was also translated into
Dutch, and extensively circulated throughout the Cape coun-
try. It is introduced into this volume in Appendix F. In
the course of our absence in the interior. Cape Town had
been visited by the Measles and the Smallpox. Neither of
these diseases had been known in the Colony for many
years, and now they both proved very fatal. The smallpox
632 CAPE TOWN. [7th mo.
was especially so, among the Mahomedans, who universally
refused to be vaccinated. For three days in succession,
there were seventy funerals in Cape Town, of persons who
had died of the smallpox.
In the course of our sojourn in Cape Town, we despatched
parcels of books and tracts to most of the Missionary Stations,
and to several other places, which we had visited. Many of
these were sent to us from England, and others were obtained
in Cape Town ; some of the latter were freely supplied by the
South African Tract Association, which is an active and useful
institution ; it has printed a valuable series of tracts in Dutch.
7th mo. 1st. We accompanied Richard Haddy in a visit
to the Penal Settlement, on Robben Island, which is about
nine miles distant from Cape Town, and seven from the light-
house, near Green Point. We were conveyed thither in a
boat, belonging to the place. The island is about seven miles
in circumference ; it is on the clayslate formation, and is of
small altitude ; its appearance is arid, except in showery
weather, and it is destitute of trees, except such as have been
planted as an orchard. ' Rabbits are numerous on the island,
but they are supposed to have been introduced. The Settle-
ment was under the charge of a military officer, and a de-
tachment of soldiers were employed to guard the prisoners ;
the soldiers were changed every two months. The penal dis-
cipline was under the charge of R. Wolfe, the superintendent,
an intelligent man, formerly in the army, who was much in-
terested in the improvement of the penal discipline.
The prisoners were about 1 20 ; they were chiefly coloured
people, but a few were British, and colonial Dutch. They
were lodged in large, stone buildings, and the rooms which
they occupied, were remarkably clean. Each prisoner had a
bed, placed on two loose boards, upon a barrack-bedstead ;
the bedsteads extended down each side of the rooms which
they occupied. The rooms, as well as the bedding and the
prisoners, were kept so clean, that the smell, common among
people of colour, in this country, was not to be perceived
here. The prisoners were employed in quarrying slate-flags,
burning hme, making bricks, and salting fish. The Kme
was obtained from shells, and burnt in kilns of a superior
1840.] CAPE COLONY. 633
structure ; and the fish were caught by some men, hired for
the purpose. The salted fish from this country finds a ready
market in the Mauritius. The religious instruction of the
prisoners devolved upon R. Wolfe, who obtained such help
as he could, in this important object, from persons interested
in the best welfare of their fellow men. In the evening, the
prisoners were assembled, and were addressed by Richard
Haddy and ourselves.
2nd. We were present at two devotional meetings with
the prisoners ; in one of them, they were addressed in Dutch,
and in the other, in English. We also visited two Hindoos,
who were suffering under a hard sentence, but who, we un-
derstood, were afterwards sent back to their own country.
We had a pleasant passage back to Cape Town, where we
afterwards met a company of Missionaries from Ceylon, on
their way to England, who were sojourning for a few days
with our kind neighbour, T. L. Hodgson. — In the course of
the day, Richard and Mary Jennings, whom we had engaged
to conduct the school in Buiten-street, arrived from Simons
Town, and took possession of the school premises.
9th. Having felt much for the parties in this country, en-
gaged in labouring for the eternal welfare of their fellow men,
we essayed a tract, entitled, " Observations submitted in Bro-
therly Love to the Missionaries and other Labourers in the
Gospel, in South Africa. " This tract, which is introduced
at Appendix G, was printed, with those before noticed, at the
expense of the Society of Friends, in England ; it was ex-
tensively circulated among the class to which it was addressed.
12th. We held our meetings for worship in the school
premises, in Buiten-Street, being joined by Richard Jennings
and his family : we had held them, since returning to Cape
Town, in the sitting-room at our lodgings, where we had
occasionally been joined by a few other individuals. Subse-
quently to this period, we met regularly in the schoolroom.
In the course of our absence, the Police of the town had been
remodelled, upon the plan now in use in England. After
this change, we were never subjected to annoyance by unruly
persons, such as at a previous period disturbed our meet-
ings, when they were held in Long Street.
634 CAPE TOWN. [7th mo.
15th. We had a meeting with about 150 persons, chiefly
of the coloured class, in the Wesleyan chapel, in Sydney
Street. We endeavoured to impress upon them, the import-
ance of repentance and of faith in Christ, and the certainty,
that where these existed, there would be an endeavour to
walk in holiness. The rehgious progress of the people in
this neighbourhood had been slow, and their convictions, at
this time, were probably, in most instances, far from clear ;
nevertheless, the labours which had been bestowed upon
them had produced a great moral reformation.
19th. We accompanied Leopold Marquard to the Amster-
dam Battery, an old military station, now used as a depot for
convicts, who worked in chains upon the roads. They were
lodged in a series of arched cells with mud floors. The pri-
soners were thirty-six in number, of various native and mixed
tribes ; none of them could read. They were mustered in the
prison yard, and while standing with them, we were sensible
of a comforting feehng of divine influence, under which we were
enabled to direct their attention to the Holy Spirit, as that
which they had felt as a witness against sin in their own con-
sciences, and which, in their incapacity to read the Scriptures,
would, if attended to, enable them to read the book of their
own hearts, and teach them respecting their fallen state by na-
ture, and their need of a Saviour. — During the remainder of
my stay in Cape Town, I often read a chapter in the Dutch
Scriptures to the men in this prison, and spoke to them on
the consequences of sin, both temporal and eternal, and on
that salvation which is freely offered to mankind through
Jesus Christ.
21st. We had a meeting with some coloured people in the
Wesleyan chapel, in Berg-Street, in which we were enabled to
extend to them much counsel on the importance of knowing
religion as an inward work, in which the heart is sanctified,
and the fruit of holiness is brought forth, in conduct and con-
versation, through the effectual working of the Holy Spirit,
sent unto all, in the name of the Lord Jesus, and dwelling
in all who willingly accept this gracious gift, and submit to
be ruled thereby.
24th. In the evening, we attended a meeting, held in
1840.] CAPE COLONY. 635
regular course, with about 100 coloured people, in the school-
room of the London Missionary Society, in Dorp Street,
under the superintendence of Martinus C. P. Vogelgezang, a
missionary. After the people had sung a hymn, an oppor-
tunity was afforded us to address them ; this we availed our-
selves of after a short pause, under a considerable measure of
the constraining influence of the love of Christ. They after-
wards sung portions of some striking hymns, and in the inter-
vals, their pastor made comments on the greatness of the love of
God, and on his mercy in Christ Jesus j he also alluded to the
promise that the Holy Spirit should be a leader, to the Lord's
humble, believing children. At various times, he invited any
to pray who might feel influenced to do so. This invitation
was accepted by four persons, under considerable feeling;
the solemnity attending the offerings of two of them was
peculiarly striking. A considerable pause subsequently en-
sued, and fearing that they should be drawn into expression,
beyond the measure of their exercise, and having felt my
own spirit bowed before the Lord on their account, from
before the period in which the first of them gave utterance to
prayer, I knelt down amongst them, and poured forth my
petitions on their behalf, at the footstool of divine grace and
mercy : the meeting then concluded. The congregations of
coloured people in Cape Town, who had lately been delivered
from slavery and oppression, were very interesting ; and in
way being made for the expression of their exercises in prayer,
without the parties being called upon by name, to pray, a
considerable advance was made toward scriptural simplicity
in regard to the exercise of spiritual gifts. When parties are
called upon by name, they may often not be baptized for the
service at the time, by the great Head of the Church. I be-
lieve also that where way is made for them to express them-
selves in counsel or exhortation, many of their exercises are
more properly conveyed in this way than in the form of
prayer.
8th mo. 1st. James Watt, a carpenter, in a small way of
business, called to obtain some tracts for distribution among
seamen. This individual was an American of very unpre-
tending exterior, but he sympathized deeply with the seamen
636 CAPE TOWN. [8th mo.
resorting to this port. With slender help, he gradually raised
a building for a Sailors Home ; he also devoted much time to
imparting religious instruction to this class of our fellowmen,
many of whom are so degraded, that they seem among the
last to seek their own welfare.
11th. I had some conversation with a person high in
office, on the subject of encouraging emigration to the Cape
Colony. Many persons were very urgent in promoting this
measure, especially merchants, who felt painfully, a great de-
pression in trade, which had now existed for a considerable
period ; they were conscious that the arrival and settling of
emigrants would produce a beneficial influence upon their
business : but my impression is, that South Africa does not
hold out much encouragement for emigrants, unless it be,
to the Natal country, which, I expect, will be found capable
of supporting a considerable population ; and it may properly
be occupied, if the emigrant Boors be first settled there,
and the rights of the few scattered groups of the Aborigines
properly secured. As regards the parts of the country through
which we travelled, I have endeavoured to describe them
faithfully; and though I should regard the settlement of a few
respectable Englishmen in them, as an advantage to the na-
tives, and to the older colonists, yet I think that most un-
biassed Englishmen would unite with me in the sentiment,
that it would be best to allow such a country as the Cape
Colony, to be gradually filled up with the offspring of its
present settlers, and its native inhabitants.
17th. Some of our kind friends in England sent to us a
considerable quantity of clothing, &c. This acceptable pre-
sent was chiefly distributed among the Hottentot Missionary
Stations. For such a purpose as this, stout prints and plain
calicoes, with thread, needles, &c. are very acceptable ; if
articles be not made up, they afford good employment for
the schools, or for persons who have been instructed in them,
A large portion of the Hottentot women, who have been in-
structed in the mission- schools, and not a few of the men, are
skilful in the use of their needles. We generally found, that
thimbles, sent from England, were too large for the taper
fingers of the coloured women.
1840.] CAPE COLONY. 637
9th mo. 1st. My dear companion remarked to me, that
the work in which we had been mutually engaged for about
nine years, in visiting the Australian Colonies, and the Cape
country, seemed so much brought to a close, that he had
thought it might be the right time for him to look out for a
vessel bound for Hobart Town, as he had a view of returning
thither to settle. With this, my judgment concurred, as lit-
tle now remained before my mind, as a duty to be fulfilled be-
fore returning to England, except the completion of the print-
ing and circulating of the tracts given in the Appendix, and
the finishing of a few arrangements respecting the school for
children of the poorer class, which had now been opened for
some weeks. Few vessels had sailed from this port for Hobart
Town within the previous year, but on inquiry, the Hamilton
Ross was now found to be lying-on for that port. After de-
liberating upon the subject, G. W. Walker engaged a passage
on board this vessel.
11th. Several Missionaries were now in Cape Town, from
stations in the interior. We had some pleasant intercourse
with them, and were enabled, in various ways, to prove our
esteem for them, and our value for their Gospel labours. We
had seen much to confirm us in the conviction, that the di-
vine blessing upon labours to spread the knowledge of Jesus
Christ, is not restricted to those who view the gospel unfet-
tered by the inventions, traditions and systems of men ; but
that where there is an upright and dedicated heart, much of
the divine blessing often rests on those whose christian views
are much restricted and biassed. Clear, sound, and purely
scriptural views are nevertheless highly to be valued, but
these are sometimes held where the heart is cold and formal.
22nd. My dear companion embarked for Van Diemens
Land. Before he went on board the Hamilton Ross, we had
a comforting season of a devotional character together. Un-
der a sweet sense of the divine presence, we were drawn forth
in vocal prayer for each others preservation, and in thanks-
giving for the mercy by which we had been preserved, as well
as for the evidence which was now granted us, that our sepa-
ration was in the counsel of Him who graciously brought us
together. Daniel Steedman, William and James Thwaits,
G38 CAPE TOWN, [9th mo.
and myself accompanied G. W. Walker on board the Hamil-
ton Ross, assisted him in arranging his little cabin, and then
solemnly bade him. Farewell !
23rd. The Hamilton Ross got under weigh early, and I
went to the signal station on the Lion Hill, to gaze upon the
vessel which was conveying away one with whom I had been
closely associated in the bonds of the Gospel, for nine years,
and with whom I had enjoyed great unity of spirit, notwith-
standing that our natural dispositions were very diiferent.
The vessel was out of sight by noon.
The union of George Washington Walker and myself, in
the work which we had now accomplished, afforded an exam-
ple of the condescension of the Most High to the peculiar
circumstances of his dependent children. After having had
an impression upon my mind for about sixteen years, respect-
ing paying a religious visit to some parts of the Southern
Hemisphere, which impression I believed to be of the Lord,
the time arrived when I thought I clearly perceived that it
was his will, that I should proceed to the performance of this
duty. I therefore laid the matter before the meetings for
discipline, upon which it devolved to judge of such a subject,
according to the good order observed in the Society of Friends.
These were, first the Monthly Meeting of York, within the
compass of which I resided ; secondly, the Quarterly Meeting
of Yorkshire, to which the said Monthly Meeting belonged ;
and thirdly, the Yearly Meeting of the Ministers and Elders
of the Society of Friends, to which the general Yearly Meet-
ing of the Society, for Great Britain and Ireland, held in
London, deputes the final judgment of the cases of such
of its members as believe themselves called to travel in the
work of the Ministry in foreign parts. These meetings all
concurred in the belief, that I was called of the Lord to
this service, and they gave me certificates of their unity,
commending me also to the kind regard of the persons
amongst whom I might come ; the Yearly Meeting of
Ministers and Elders nevertheless signified its judgment to
be, that I should not proceed without a suitable companion.
I had settled my aifairs and taken leave of my children
before setting out from York; and I remained several weeks in
1840.] CAPE COLONY. (539
the vicinity of London, waiting for a companion without one
presenting. One evening, after retiring to my bed-room, I had
been engaged in earnest prayer, that if it were the will of God,
that I should, at this time, proceed in the work which I had
in prospect, he would be pleased to raise up a companion for
me. I retired to rest with this petition upon my mind, and
awoke in the night under the same feeling. Toward morn-
ing, before I was thoroughly awake, I was considering who
there were, in various places, who might be suitable for such
a service, when the words " Now look northward," were dis-
tinctly, and powerfully impressed upon my mind, but with-
out audible sounds ; and in a moment, Newcastle and my
friend George Washington Walker were set before me. Being
afraid lest I should be deceived by my imagination, I tried to
bring other places and other persons into view ; but it was
not in my power to give a similar character to any effort
of my own. On awaking fully, such a feeling of heavenly
sweetness attended the view of my friend accompanying me,
as left no doubt on my mind that he was the person chosen
of the Lord. I therefore wrote to him, simply informing
him how I was situated, and encouraging him, if he felt
drawn to the service, to give up to the will of the Lord
therein. Subsequently it appeared, that his mind had been pre-
pared for this work by a series of circumstances, scarcely less
remarkable than the one here related. But up to the moment
of my receiving the impression described, I had never thought
of him as a person likely to accompany me, nor had this
field of labour opened to his view. We had taken leave
of each other, and he had sent letters to my care, for some of
his relations who were settled in Van Diemens Land. The
manner in which we were subsequently " led about and in-
structed," in the performance of this duty, added a strong
confirmation to the belief, that our call to it, was of the Lord.
CHAPTER XXXVI.
Meetings in Cape Town. — Wynberg "Woods. — D. Johns. — Visits to Prisons. —
Meetings at Wynberg, Rondebosch and Herschel. — Table Mountain. —
Plants. — Rumours of Wars. — Departure. — St. Helena. — Fish. — Gulf-weed. —
Azores. — Storms. — Birds Man Lost. — Dangerous position. — Arrival in
England. — Return to York.
After the departure of G. W. Walker for Van Diemens
Land, we still kept up our little meetings for worship, in
the Schoolroom, in Buiten Street. In these, we were joined
by my friend, William Henry Harvey, who held the office
of Colonial Treasurer, and who had been absent from the
Colony for some months, on account of his health. Occa-
sionally, we had the company of other persons. Under the
constraining influence of the love of Christ, I frequently
addressed them on the subjects of christian faith and prac-
tice ; and under the date of 11th mo. 1st. I find this memo-
randum in my Journal : — "A few strangers were at our
meeting in the afternoon : one of them was a Wesleyan local-
preacher, and another of them had till lately acted in that
capacity. I had to set them an example of silent waiting
upon God ; and the prayer of my heart was, that they might
feel the Lord's presence and power without instrumental
means ; for where these are depended upon, or where more
is expected from them than they are designed for, by the
great Head of the Church, they draw the mind off, from
feeling after him, in order to find him revealed within as the
hope of glory, and the Saviour of the soul. "
11th mo. 7th. I accompanied W. H. Harvey in a walk
among the woods at the foot of Table Mountain, above Wyn-
berg. We met with some remarkable trees, and with Heme-
telia capensis, an arborescent fern, with a trunk as thick as a
1840.] CAPE COLONY. 641
man's arm, and 5 feet high. We also saw some Baboons
and Dassies or Conies, and among the rocks, some beautiful
heaths, and a large, caulescent Aloe ; up to this period, the
last had escaped the notice of botanists ; no species of the
genus having been previously met with nearer Cape Town
than the vicinity of the Paarl.
14th. I called upon David Johns, who was here on his re-
turn to the Mauritius, after taking some Madagascar refugees
to England. While in Cape Town, he had tidings of more
martyrdoms having taken place, under the decrees of the de-
luded Queen of Madagascar. I felt much unity of sjjirit with
D. Johns, and presented him with the Lives of George White-
head and Martin Boos, to encourage him in the midst of his
trials, by the exhibition of patient suffering, by persons of
different churches, in modern times, under persecution for
the faith of Christ.
15th. I visited the prisoners in the Amsterdam Battery
and the Jail. On entering the former, and greeting a rough-
looking Black, in chains, he replied, that his heart rejoiced
at my coming, and he called the others, who w'ere loitering
about the yard, saying to them in Dutch, " Come, brothers,
here is provision for us to partake of together. " While
speaking to them on the mercy of God in sending his Son
into the world to save sinners, we were favoured with a com-
forting sense of divine overshadowing. I rejoiced in thus
being made a partaker in this blessing, with these poor outcasts
of society. Among this class of persons, as well as among
Hottentots, Caffers, Bechuanas and Emancipated Slaves, I
have often been permitted to participate in this privilege much
more abundantly than has generally been the case, when among
the free White Population, even including some of the pious.
Among the pious, there is often much lukewarmness; and
those who are not pious, but nevertheless profess to be chris-
tians, have only a name to live, while they are spiritually dead.
It is true to this day, that " the Lord lilleth the hungry with
good things, but sendeth the rich empty away," because they
are too full of themselves and of the world, to have room to
receive his unmerited mercies. — In visiting the Jail, I was
drawn to speak to the prisoners in Dutch, on the importance
s s
642 WYNEBERG. [llthmo.
of repentance, as a preparation to receiving justification from
past sins, through faith in Christ, according to the doctrine
preached by John the Baptist, and our Saviour, and by his
disciples, on this subject. I afterwards addressed them in
Enghsh, as some of them did not understand Dutch. While
speaking to them in English, Martinus Vogelgezang and
James Watt came in ; when I had concluded, the former,
unconscious that I had been speaking in Dutch, addressed
the prisoners in that language, quoting the same texts, and
making similar comments, so that the truth was obviously
confirmed in the mouth of two independent witnesses.
16th. I went to Wynberg in an omnibus, and became the
guest of Richard Haddy, who kindly appointed a meeting
for me in the Wesleyan chapel. The congregation were at-
tentive, and I could not doubt, that many of them were
pious.
17th. In the evening, I accompanied Richard Haddy to
Diepe Rivier, Deep River, a village two miles and a half from
Wynberg, on the way to Simons Town. At this place, the Wes-
leyans have a rustic chapel, in which an interesting, coloured
congregation were assembled at my request. I had much to
communicate to them, under a comforting feeling of the love of
God, extended toward them in Jesus Christ, our Lord. At
the conclusion, they held a class-meeting, which they invited
me to attend. A woman, seventy-three years of age, who had
been a slave, first spoke in this meeting, saying, she could
not forbear, for the Lord had made her heart, as the heart of
a child ; that forty years ago she was desirous of hearing the
Gospel preached, and of learning to read, but was forbidden
by those to whom she was in bondage : she then stole out at
night for this purpose, but was threatened with punishment.
She had now become free, and had been permitted since she
became so, to acquire the knowledge of Jesus Christ, which
her soul so long had thirsted after. Two men spoke at some
length, and prayed ; one of them with thanksgiving for his
awakening, and for the peace of which he had been made a
partaker, in believing. There was some excitement in his ex-
pressions, nevertheless, a measure of precious solemnity pre-
vailed during much of this opportunity. It was truly comforting
1840.] CAPE COLONY. 643
to see the poor fed with good things. We left them at a late
hour, when they were again assembling in a neighbour's
house, in the warmth of their first love, to commemorate the
goodness and loving-kindness of the Lord.
18th. I was at a meeting at Rondebosch, in the Wesleyan
chapel, with the coloured people and others who used the
Dutch language. In labouring to turn the attention of these
to the teaching of the Holy Spirit, I was sensible of the over-
shadowing of heavenly love. Here I became the guest of
G. T. Parker, my oldest acquaintance in this place.
19th. I called upon several persons, in company with
Andrew Steedman, the author of two interesting volumes,
entitled, *^ Wanderings in South Africa.'' I attended a meet-
ing held weekly in the Wesleyan chapel, by some pious per-
sons not directly professing with the Wesleyans, but who
were interested in the religious welfare of the people in the
neighbourhood using the English language. Opportunity
was given me to express the christian concern which I felt
for the congregation.
25th. I had a meeting at Herschel with several pious
persons from India, who were sojourning in the neighbour-
hood on account of their health. It was held in the house
of a pious widow, who kept a boarding-school. I had much
to communicate on the passage, " Every one of us must give
account of himself unto God." It was a solemn parting
opportunity with several, respecting whom I felt much chris-
tian interest. — A ship ran upon the rocks during the night,
which was foggy. In the course of my sojourn in Cape
Town, several ships were wrecked in Table Bay, but only
one of them in a storm.
28th. I accompanied my friend William H. Harvey in an
excursion to the top of Table Mountain, on which numerous
interesting plants were in blossom. It was still too early for
Disa grandijiora, a splendid plant of the Orchis tribe, which
borders the mountain streamlets, much in the way in which
Ragged Robin, Lychnis Flos Cuculi, borders ditches in swampy
ground, in England.
My health requiring vigorous exercise, I often walked upon
the ascent of Table Mountain, and several times crossed its
644 CAPE TOWN. [12th mo.
top. The panoramic view from its summit is remarkably grand
and interesting. It includes a wide extent of sea and land;
and much of the latter is mountainous, and highly picturesque.
Among the brushwood, on the upper part of the ascent of
the mountain, I twice started small antelopes ; occasionally,
baboons were seated among the rocks, and eagles were often
soaring in front of the cliffs. Among the rocks, Helichrysum
rupestre, and some other Everlastings, abounded; Pelargonium
cuculatum, the parent of most of the Geraniums of English
greenhouses, formed large patches in the warmer ravines;
in the borders of the woods of Silver-tree, Leucodendron ar-
genteum, as well as in some more open places, the Kreupel-
boom, Leucospermum conocarpum, formed a large, round bush,
the branches of which were terminated by slender flowers,
forming golden heads, of three inches in diameter. A pro-
fusion of Heaths, Proteas and other striking plants, were
also growing here.
29th. Several ships came in, some of which brought " ru-
mours of wars, " at which I found it hard to act up to the
injunction, "Be not troubled.^' In case of a war with France,
returning to England, seemed like travelling past the lion^s
mouth ; but I was mercifully enabled to cast all my care
upon Him who led me in safety when among lions, and who
gave me to feel, that he still ruled over the kingdoms of the
children of men, and could preserve or protect me, or, if he
saw meet to permit captivity or death, would still be present
to comfort and sustain.
12th mo. 6th. I attended our little meeting in the fore-
noon and afternoon ; one was also held in the evening, at
which a few persons not usually attending were present.
These meetings were times of favour from the Lord. That
in the afternoon was held in silence. In the morning and
evening, I had to point out the importance of not being con-
tent without witnessing a growth in grace, such as is evidenced
by a deepening love to God, and an increased conformity
to his will. This is a state M'hich is attended by an enlarged
capacity for the enjoyment of the communion of the Holy
Spirit, given through the mediation of Jesus Christ, and for
his sake, as well as by an increase of believing prayer, and of
1840.]
ATLANTIC OCEAN.
645
watchful expectation, or waiting, to receive the mercies which
God has promised in his beloved Son, to all who repent and
obey the Gospel.
9th. Having taken leave of many kind friends in Cape
Town, I embarked on board the schooner Invoice, laden with
coffee, from the West Indies, WiUiam Proudfoot, Master.
Richard Jennings, Daniel Steedman and James Thwaits ac-
companied me on board, and remained for some time. We
made sail about noon, and left Table Mountain far behind
before night.
17th. This day, like those before it, which had passed
since we left Table Bay, was marked by no change striking
to common observation, but within the course of it, we passed
under the vertical sun, and crossed the meridian of Green-
wich. The sky was rather cloudy, and the wind cooler than
was pleasant.
21st. The island called St. Helena was in view: it is steep
and mountainous; its highest point is 2,300 feet above the level
of the sea. The rocks are basaltic. As we were not in want
of anything that required our stojDping here, we transferred a
few letters to a Dutch ship, which was making for the port,
and pursued our voyage. I took the sketch from which the
accompanying cut has been executed, when the island bore
S.W. about thirty miles distant. The harbour is between
the two points on the right.
St. T^tltna.
29th. We crossed the Equator. The weather was now
extremely hot. When the deck was dry and the sun upon it.
646 ATLANTIC OCEAN. [2nd mo.
the pitch was softened in the seams between the planks, and
the wood was too hot to allow of persons walking upon it
without shoes.
1st mo. 13th, 1841. We crossed the Tropic of Cancer.
The temperature was considerably diminished. We now be-
gan to fall in with Gulf Weed, which is thought to drift out
of the Gulf of Mexico ; it is one of the plants which vegetate
while floating in the ocean. It is generally in small circular
tufts, and these are often arranged in parallel lines, by the
influence of the wind and currents.
22nd. We passed between the islands of Fayal and Flores,
among the Azores, but did not see them in consequence of a
fog. We had had a gale of wind for a few days, but were
favoured to see the sun at intervals, so as to ascertain our
position.
27th. We spoke a vessel, from which we obtained a news-
paper containing the grateful intelligence, that the threaten-
ings of war between England and France had subsided.
2nd mo. 1st. A gale set in from the south-east, when we
were just within soundings ; it continued for several days
with snow showers, and the wind came directly a-head.
3rd. Birds were numerous ; a few linnets, which had been
blown from the land, were captured on deck, and placed in
my cabin, where they quickly went to sleep ; they all died
within a few days.
5th. We lay-to after a dismally stormy night, in which
some heavy seas started our bulwarks and carried away part
of our ports. I was favoured with tranquillity of mind, in
humble dependence upon Him whom the wind and the sea
obey, but was destitute of that sense of the divine presence
by which I had often been comforted in the hour of trial. In
the afternoon the weather became finer.
6th. The improvement in the weather was of short dura-
tion ; the wind began to blow again with great violence last
evening, and this morning, while lying to, a heavy roll carried
away our topmast and jib-boom.
7th. All hands were busy clearing away the wreck occa-
sioned by the accident of yesterday. The sea was very high,
and it often washed over the disabled vessel. The assembling
1841.] ENGLISH CHANNEL. 647
of the men for religious purposes was impracticable. I
had usually read to them on First-days, from the Scriptures,
and had often addressed them on the importance of laying
hold on eternal life, but to-day, I sat alone in the wet cabin,
feeling the force of the words,
" Other refuge, have I none ;
Hangs my helpless soul on Thee."
10th. While the gale lasted and we lay-to, in thick wea-
ther, we were perpetually in danger of being run down by ves-
sels coming out of the English Channel. Sometimes they had
but just time to clear us after hearing our bell, or seeing our
light. We durst not keep the Ught on deck, lest it should pre-
vent our seeing them, but it was ready in the cabin to be
shown at a moment's notice. In this state we beat backward
and forward between the coast of Ireland and that of France.
To-day the wind changed in our favour, and we made sail.
When near the Scilly Islands we lost a man overboard, whom
every effort to save proved fruitless. In the haste to bring the
vessel to, the mainsail was split, and it became so dark before
we could again proceed, that we descried the light on the
island called St. Agnes, in such a position as proved, that
had it not been for the detention occasioned by these acci-
dents, we should probably have been by that time, upon the
rocks, for which we had evidently been standing, in the fog.
On discovering our dangerous position, we immediately stood
off the land, grateful for our escape, but cast down by the
loss we had sustained.
12th. We entered the English Channel, and in the course
of the day we sighted land off Bolt Head.
13th. We passed the Channel Islands and came within
sight of Beachy Head. Our crew were so exhausted that
they required much encouragement, to prevail upon them not
to give up ; two of them had been violently affected with
cramp, and the feet of the others were much swollen with
the continued exposure to wet and cold.
14th. We took in a pilot between Dungeness and Dover,
and had a fine run through the Downs, and as far up the
Thames as the Lower Hope. As we passed rapidly along the
well-known and greatly-desired coasts, my soul was much
648 ARRIVAL IN ENGLAND. [2nd IIIO.
bowed before the Lord, in thanksgiving and praise for the
past, and in prayer for the future, under a Hvely recollection
of his goodness and mercy, in bringing me in health, safety
and peace, to my native shores, after having led me about in
his service, over so many thousands of miles, of land and of
water, preserved me in calms and in storms, in the midst of
dangers, in the desert, and in the wilderness, amongst wild-
beasts, and amongst savage and barbarous, as well as amongst
civilized men ; so that, according to the prediction of one of
the Lord's anointed servants, (Daniel Wheeler,) at the com-
mencement of my journeyings, " neither the briny wave, nor
any other attendant danger, had been permitted to prevail
against me. " I felt that I had indeed occasion to adopt the
language, "Bless the Lord, O my soul, and all that is within
me bless his holy name ! Bless the Lord, O my soul, and
forget not all his benefits ! ''
15th. I went on board of a steamer, and landed at London
Bridge, after an absence of nine years and five months from
my native land. I made my way to the house of my friends
John and Isabel Kitching, at Stamford Hill, where I was soon
joined by one of my sisters.
Several circumstances detained me in London till the even-
ing of the 20th, when accompanied by my sister, I proceeded
to York by the mail-train, which arrived there early on the
21st of 2nd month, 1841, when I was favoured to meet my
dear relatives in much comfort, and was restored to my chil-
dren, whom I had left young, and who were so much grown
and altered that I could not have identified them. Both here
and in London, as well as in other places, I received a cordial
greeting from my friends, especially those holding the same
rehgious principles. I was also favoured to partake largely of
that peace which is often dispensed in unmerited mercy, to
those who feel themselves to be unprofitable servants, not-
withstanding they may have been enabled in some measure
to perform their duty.
APPENDIX.
A.
Islands belonging to the Mauritian Government, with
their Geographical Positions, Size and Population,
taken chiefly from the "Alraanach de I'lle Maurice," 1837.
1. Rodrigues. Latitude 19° 40' 40" south ; longitude 63° 11'
20" east of Greenwich. It contains 123 inhabitants, and is 8 miles
long by about 3 broad. Only a small portion of this island is capa-
ble of cultivation ; the western part is Httle but coral and sand, and
is destitute of drinkable water.
2. St. Brandon. Situated upon the bank of Brandon. Lat.
16° 26' south ; long. 59° 35' east ; 27 miles long by 12 broad, and
72 round. It comprises 12 small islands, forming 5 groups distant
from each other 1 or 2 leagues. It has no permanent population
being sometimes totally submerged in great storms.
3. Diego Garcia. Lat. 7° 15' south ; long. 72° 32' east. This
island is in the form of a horse shoe. It is 12 miles from north to
south, and 6 miles across. It is in the possession of three Mauri-
tians. Its population is 275. The produce is Cocoa-nuts and fire-
wood.
4. Six Isles. Lat. 6° 35' south; long. 71° 25' east. These
islands are 6 in number, in the form of a horse shoe of 8 or 9 miles
round. One person has a settlement here.
5. Trois freres. Lat, 6° 10' south; long. 71° 28' east. Occu-
pied by a colonist from the Mauritius, who employs 43 individuals.
6. lies Salomon. Lat. 5° 23' south ; long. 72° 35' east. Com-
prising 1 1 small islands arranged in a circle, which are occupied by
2 Mauritians, who employ 10 persons.
7. Peros Banhos. Lat. 5° 23' 30" south ; long. 72° 3' east.
il APPENDIX. A.
Comprising 22 small islands, forming a basin 18 miles long and 12
wide. Inhabited by 121 persons, in the employment of a Mauri-
tian, who has a fishery here and manufactures [cocoa-nut?] oil.
8. lie Legour. Lat. 5° 59' south ; long. 72°' 37' east ; 2 miles
long and 2 or 3 broad. No inhabitants.
9. lies George et Roquepiz. Between lat. 6° 20' and 7° 15'
south ; and between long. 60° 4', 60° 45', and 63° 8' east. Their
situation and existence doubtful.
10. Agalega. Lat. 10° 29' 50" south ; long. 56° 55' east. It
is 11 miles long from north to south, and more than 1^ miles wide.
Population 200, employed by a Mauritian merchant in the manu-
facture of [cocoa-nut ?] oil.
11. Coetivi. Lat. 7° 15' south; long. 56° 23' east. About 9
miles in circumference. Inhabited by 100 individuals, employed
by a Mauritian in the production of Maize and Cocoa-nut oil, and
the capture of Turtle.
12. lies Seychelles. These islands, upwards of 30 in number,
form an archipelago between lat. 3° 38' and 5° 45' south ; long.
55° 15' and 56° 10' east. The island of Mahe is about 76 miles
round ; it is mountainous, rocky, intersected by ravines, and well
Avatered; it contains 5,834 inhabitants. The island of St. Anne,
the largest of the group, has a good soil, and is inhabited by 246
individuals. The other islands under this group are L'ile aux
Cerfs, 33 inhabitants ; Les trois isles Anonyme et du sud est ; L'ile
Longue, cultivated by 22 inhabitants ; L'ile Ronde ; L'ile Moyenne ;
L'ile Therese ; L'ile de la Conception; Les trois Soeurs, 15 inhabit-
ants ; L'ile Ronde ; L'ile Aride ; L'ile Felicite, 52 inhabitants ;
L'ile Marianne ; L'ile aux Rescifs ; Les deux iles du Nord ; L'ile
aux Vaches marines ; L'ile aux Fregates ; L'ile de la Digne, 344
inhabitants ; L'ile Praslin, 401 inhabitants ; Les Cousin et Cousine;
Les iles Denis ; Marianne, aux Recifs, du Nord, Denis' Curieuse,
and Mamelles, are very small; L'ile Silhonete, 136 inhabitants ;
L'ile Plate, used as a place of Quarantine.
13. Les Amirantes. An archipelago consisting of 11 small
islands situated between lat. 4° 59' and 6° 12' south, and long. 53° 46'
and 53° 4' east. The islands are, L'ilot Africain, L'ile Zemire,
L'ile d'Arros, L'ile St. Joseph, L'ile Poivre, L'ile des Roches, L'ile
de r Etoile, L'ile Lamperiaire, L'ile de la Boudeuse, L'ile Marie
Louise, L'ile des Neuf These islands are little but coral mixed
with sand ; they are resorted to for fishing and catching turtle.
14. L'ile Alphonse. Lat. 7° south ; long 53° east. Occupied
occasionally by a Mauritian, for the purpose of taking fish.
MAURITIAN ISLAKDS. lU
15. He de la Providence. Lat. 9° 12' south; long. 52° 17' east.
35 inhabitants. It is without springs of water, and is granted to a
Mauritian, on condition of receiving lepers, who are sent here to
feed on turtle.
16. lies Jean de Nove. Lat. 10° 12' south ; long. 15° 56' east.
Comprising 5 islands, on which there are scattered Cocoa-nut Palms,
and on which 7 individuals reside at a boat-harbour.
17. He St. Pierre. Lat. 9° 1 5' south ; long. 50° 55' east. It
is 6 miles long and 1| broad. Its coast is of great blocks of coral,
over which the sea breaks with violence.
18. L'lle St. Laurent. Lat. 9° 44' south; long. 51° 28' east.
Existence doubtful.
19. He Astove. Lat. 10° 10' south; long. 47° 50' east.
20. lie Cosmoledo. Lat. 9° 45' south ; long. 47° 10' east.
21. He de I'Assomption. Lat. 9° 44' south ; long. 47° 40' east.
Inhabited.
22. He Aldabra. Lat. 9° 22' south ; long. 46° 50' east. A
mass of coral 24 miles round.
23. He Natal. Lat. 8° 27' south ; long. 54° 32' east.
24. He de Sable. Lat. 15° 53' south ; long. 54° 43' east. Sur-
rounded by a bank 60 leagues long and 10 broad.
25. lies St. Paul et Amsterdam. The first lat. 37° 45' south,
the second lat. 38° 5' south ; mean long. 78°. These islands are
difiicult of access ; they are resorted to by sealers. The harbour of
the island of Amsterdam is the crater of an active volcano ; it has
altered in form within a few years, in consequence of volcanic
disturbance.
To these islands may be added He de Plat, Coin de Mire, He
Ronde, He d' Ambre, Grande ile aux Cerfs, He du Morne, and
several other small islands on the coast of the Mauritius. See
Chart of the Mauritius and Islands under the Mauritian Govern-
ment. Page 1.
a2
APPENDIX.
B.
A Letter to the persons proceeding to the Islands of the
Pacific, in the Missionary Ship Camden, with a view
of engaging in Missionary Labours.
My dear Brethren and Sisters,
Although I have little personal acquaintance with you, I feel a
deep christian interest in your spiritual welfare, and in the pros-
perity of the noble cause in which you have embarked ; and in the
spirit of christian friendship and love, I venture to address you ;
not knowing whether there may be an opportunity of communicat-
ing personally, what is upon my mind, on account of the stormy
state of the weather.
I suppose twenty more years may have rolled over my head, than
over most of yours, and for more than that length of time, I have
been a labourer in the Gospel. I will not boast of my own success
in the work : the glory of what the Lord has blessed belongs to
him alone ; and I am sensible, that had I been more faithful to him,
and more patient under the baptisms of his Holy Spirit, more fruit
to his praise would have been produced. I have also seen much of
the defect existing in the Gospel labours of many others, among
the various denominations of Christians ; and against the causes of
my own defects, as well as those of theirs, I wish to caution you,
as a brother in Christ ; desiring that you may prove yourselves
better servants of the best of masters.
I do not at all question the sincerity or the zeal in which you
LETTER TO MISSIONAEIES. ▼
have set out, with the most worthy of objects in view ; but suflfer
me to entreat you to keep constantly in remembrance, that it is the
Lord's work ; and that, in order to its proper performance, it is
necessary that you keep under the " sanctification of the Spirit,
unto obedience, and sprinkling of the blood of Christ." For want
of attention to this most important consideration, many who have
set out well, have neglected the state of their own hearts, have
wandered from the Lord in spirit, have trusted in their own strength
to perform the work of God ; and in consequence, have not been
crowned with the divine blessing. Some of these have, neverthe-
less been eloquent in speech, and have long continued in repute for
correct doctrine ; but there has been a deadness in their labours, even
when these have continued to be abundant, and a lack of spiritual
mindedness has appeared among those who were esteemed their con-
verts ; and in some instances, their own moral conduct has at length
lamentably failed. May this never be the case with any of you ; but
may you daily walk with God, and then his blessing will be with you.
Many cases are to be met with, even among pious people, in
which, through inattention to the spirit of devotional exercises,
these have become formal and lifeless. Thus, lamentably often,
sermons are preached from the mere recollection of the doctrines and
precepts, without any fresh feeling of the matter, under the anoint-
ing of the Holy Spirit; and consequently, they are devoid of the
"demonstration of the Spirit and of power," and are more calcuated
to cause the faith of the hearers to " stand in the wisdom of men"
than " in the power of God." Too often, also, in the same manner,
expressions are used in the form of prayer, even when it is offered
up extemporaneously, as well as in the giving of thanks at meal-
times. These exercises when thus devoid of life, fail to promote
piety, and tend to encourage a feeling, already but too general, as
though it were possible to perform them by proxy ; and thus the
spirit of prayer and thanksgiving is often low, or even wanting, in
many of the public and family devotions of persons, who, I would
gladly believe, do often hold communion with the Lord in private.
Seeing that this is the case, and that many persons while they
retain the form of godliness, decline in the power, and that thus the
Lord's work is hindered, I wish, very aflfectionately, to caution you
against such defects ; desiring that the fire of the daily burnt offer-
ing, in a spiritual sense, may never go out on the altar of your
hearts ; but that the ashes may be removed, and fresh sacrifices
offered up, of a sweet savour unto God, through Jesus Christ, our
Holy High Priest.
a3
•Vi APPENDIX. B.
As the work of the Holy Spirit is to convince of sin, to lead to
repentance and to faith in Christ, to give a sense of spiritual wants,
and thus to prepare for sincere prayer; to sanctify the heart, and en-
able the disciples of Jesus to take up their cross to whatsoever he may
shew them to be contrary to the Divine Will, as well as to qualify
for the exercise of the gifts that he may have conferred for his own
glory, however these gifts may differ one from another, (for all have
not the same gifts ;) so by having the mind strongly directed to the
operation of this blessed Spirit upon it, and by submitting to the
Spirit's guidance, ability is received to promote the Lord's work
in the earth, and to walk in holiness, enjoying also communion
of soul with the Father and with the Son.
Be not discouraged in times of conflict and suffering ; whether
from the temptations of Satan within, or from trials permitted to
occur from without. For the disciples of Christ are not to expect
to be exempted from conflicts. These are often permitted to keep
down self-exaltations ; " "Whom the Lord loveth he chasteneth, and
scourgeth every son whom he receiveth :" and as Christ himself,
" though he were a son, learned obedience through the things that
he suffered," so must his disciples folloAV in his steps. As he sub-
mitted for our sakes, " to be tempted in all points like as we are,"
so if we become his true ministers, we must likewise, in our measure
submit to " fill up that which is behind of the afflictions of Christ
in our flesh, for his body's sake, which is the Church." But our
Holy Head bore these temptations without sin, for, "in him was
no sin :" and his poor frail disciples have all sinned, and are liable
to fall into sin, through not steadily watching in humble but firm
faith in his power to " deliver to the uttermost all that come unto
God by him." When sensible of halting or backsliding, be not,
however, too much cast down : rather suffer the sense of transgres-
sion to stir you up to greater watchfulness, and to prove to you,
that your trust in God and distrust of yourselves are not yet com-
plete. Remember, that "if any man sin, we have an Advocate with
the Father, Jesus Christ the righteous, and he is the propitiation
for our sins."
Suffer not Satan to seduce you to remain content in a polluted
state, as though the "purpose for which the Son of God was mani-
fested, even, that he might destroy the work of the devil," was not
to be thoroughly effected : for the Lord's commandment is, "Be ye
holy, for I am holy," and as those who used not the water of sepa-
ration when they became unclean were cut off from the congregation,
under the Law, because they had " defiled the sanctuary of the
LETTER TO MISSIONARIES. VU
Lord," so, under the Gospel, those, who being conscious of sin,
neglect to seek cleansing through the blood of Christ, shall surely
not go unpunished.
There is need indeed for all to " watch and pray, that they enter
not into temptation ;" for how " willing soever the spirit may be,
the flesh is weak:" and "all things are naked and opened unto the
eyes of Him with whom we have to do:" who is Jesus, "the Word,
who was in the beginning, and was with God, and was God ; in
whom was life and the life was the light of men." This light is
the Spirit of Truth, which proceedeth from the Father and cometh
in the name of the Son, who is " the Word of God," " quick and
powerful and sharper than any two edged sword, piercing even to
the dividing asunder of soul and spirit, and of the joints and marrow,
and is a discerner of the thoughts and intents of the heart : neither
is there any creature that is not manifest in his sight."
May " the God of peace that brought again from the dead our
Lord Jesus, that great Shepherd of the sheep, through the blood of
the everlasting covenant, make you perfect in every good work to
do his will, working in you that which is well pleasing in his sight,
through Jesus Christ; to whom be glory for ever and ever. Amen."
I remain
Your friend,
JAMES BACKHOUSE.
Cape Town,
7th of 9th Month, 1838.
APPENDIX.
C.
The Way of Salvation by Jesus Christ.
Saltation is freely offered to mankind by Jesus Chkist ; never-
theless, multitudes are found disregarding the offers of mercy, and
carelessly living in sin, or even pursuing earnestly a sinful course ;
notwithstanding sin always brings a measure of its own punishment
in this world, and will most certainly, if it be not forsaken, bring
everlasting punishment in the next. " For the Son of Man shall
come in the glory of his Father, with his angels, and then he shall
reward every man according to his works." Matt. xvi. 27. " The
wicked is snared in the work of his own hands. The wicked shall be
turned into hell, and all the nations that forget God." Ps. ix. 16, 17.
The Holy Scriptures assure us that, all men shall perish unless
they repent. Luke xiii. 1. 3. Let none, therefore, deceive them-
selves by imagining that, because they receive a portion of the
punishment of sin in this world, they will escape the wrath of God
in the next. For when God, by the prophet Isaiah, pronounced
grievous judgments upon the Israelites because of their sins, he said,
" For all this his anger is not turned away, but his hand is stretched
out still." Isa. V. 25 ; ix. 12. 17. 21 ; x. 4. This was because the
people turned not to him that smote them, neither sought the Lord
of Hosts. Isa. ix. 13. None can escape the just judgments of God
without repentance ; and none who truly repent can willingly con-
tinue in the practice of sin. Sin becomes a grievous burden to the
penitent ; and if through un watch fulness they at any time fall into
it, they are deeply humbled before God under the sense of their
transgression, and cannot rest till, through renewed repentance
THE WAT OF SALVATION. ix
and faith in Christ, they know the Lord to lift them up, hy again
giving them the evidence within themselves of the forgiveness of
their sin.
John the Baptist said to the multitude that came forth to be bap-
tised of him, and thus made public profession of their belief in the
doctrine of repentance, — " O generation of vipers ! Who hath warned
you to flee from the wrath to come ? Bring forth, therefore, fruits
worthy of repentance ; and begin not to say within yourselves, We
have Abraham to our Father : for I say unto you, that God is able
of these stones to raise up children unto Abraham. And now also
the axe is laid unto the root of the trees : every tree, therefore,
which bringeth not forth good fruit, is hewn down and cast into
the fire." Luke iii. 7 — 9. As none, therefore, in that day, might
hope to be saved because they were the children of Abraham, unless
they brought forth fruits meet for repentance, and thus did the
works of Abraham ; so in this day, none may hope to be saved be-
cause they call themselves Christians, unless they bring forth fruits
Avorthy of repentance, and follow Christ. Mark viii. 34.
Let not any, therefore, who do not forsake their sins, deceive them-
selves by supposing that their sins are forgiven, even though they
may have confessed them, and had absolution pronounced upon them:
for God never gave to any man authority to pronounce absolution
upon sin unrepented-of, but he complained of such as assumed it,
saying, " From the least of them even unto the greatest of them,
every one is given to covetousness ; and from the prophet even
unto the priest, every one dealeth falsely : they have healed also the
hurt of the daughter of my people slightly, saying, Peace, Peace,
when there is no peace." " Therefore they shall fall among them
that fall : at the time that I visit them they shall be cast down,
saith the Lord" (Jer. vi. 13. 15 ; viii. 10 — 12). Such are but
" blind leaders of the blind," who, Christ has said, " shall both fall
into the ditch." Matt. xv. 14.
Some persons profess to deny the being of a God ; but the un-
belief of such does not make the faith of those who do believe void,
or alter the fact of the existence of God ; any more than if a man
were to shut his eyes and say there was no such thing as the sun,
this would blot the sun out of the heavens. It would, indeed,
prove the man to be a fool ; and it is " the fool who has said in his
heart. There is no God." Ps. xiv. 1 ; liii. 1.
Others there are who assume that they are lost by an eternal
decree, being predestinated to destruction, and that it is in vain for
them to strive against sin. Thus, in their folly, these charge their
X APPENDIX. C.
destruction upon God, and madly persevere in the service of the
devil. But the language of the Most High, to a people who turned
to iniquity in former ages, Avas, *' Israel, thou hast destroyed
thyself, but in Me is thy help." Hosea xiii. 9. "Have I any
pleasure at all that the wicked should die ? saith the Lord; and not
that he should turn from his ways and live?" Ezek. xviii. 23,
'.' The Lord is long-suffering to us-ward, not willing that any should
perish, but that all should come to repentance." 2 Pet. iii. 9.
Others, again, remain in a sinful course, who yet acknowledge that
sin makes them unhappy, and that it is their duty to forsake it ;
but they say it is useless for them to try to do better while they are
surrounded by evil example, and by persons who scoff at every thing
good. But these excuses for not forsaking iniquity, and for remain-
ing the servants of Satan, are merely his temptations, by which he
strives to keep people in his service, in order that their portion may
be with him in that awful state of suffering which shall be the re-
ward of the wicked in the world to come ; and which is compared
to a lake burning with fire and brimstone, where the Avorm dieth
not, and the fire is not quenched. Rev. xx. 10. Mark ix. 48.
These excuses Avill not avail in the day of judgment ; for God is
willing to give grace to all who seek to him for it, sufficient to
enable them to resist temptation. He " resisteth the proud, and
giveth grace to the humble" (1 Pet. v. 5); and his "grace is
sufficient" for those who trust in him. 2 Cor. xii. 9. The exhor-
tation of Christ, who " endured the contradiction of sinners against
himself" (Heb. xii. 3), and who set us a righteous example, is,
" Fear not them which kUl the body, but are not able to kill the
soul ; but rather fear him, which is able to destroy both soul and
body in hell :" and he likewise added, " Whosoever therefore shall
confess me before men, him will I confess also before my Father
which is in heaven : but whosoever shall deny me before men, him
will I also deny before my Father which is in heaven." Matt. x.
28. 32, 33.
There is no doubt that all, on serious reflection, desire peace to
their immortal souls, both in this world and in the next. Let them
be wise, then, and seek it where it is to be found. It is not to be
found in sin ; for, " the wicked are like the troubled sea when it
cannot rest, Avhose waters cast up mire and dirt ; there is no peace,
saith my God, to the wicked." Isa. Ivii. 20, 21. It is the same
Almighty Being who ordained that the sun should rise in the east
and set in the Avest, who has ordained that there shall be no peace
to the wicked: and it would be just as rational to expect the course
THE WAY OF SALVATION. Xi
of nature to be changed in accommodation to man's wishes, as to
expect that peace can be attained while living in sin, Sin ever will
bring trouble, and only trouble ; for " there is no peace, saith the
Lord, unto the wicked !'' Isa. xlvlii. 22. May all constantly bear
this in remembrance, and that "all unrighteousness is sin." 1
John V. 17.
" The fear of the Lord is the beginning of wisdom ; a good un-
derstanding have all they that do his commandments." Psalm cxi.
10. " By the fear of the Lord men depart from evil." " The fear
of the Lord tendeth to life ; and he that hath it shall abide satis-
fied ; he shall not be visited with evil. " Prov. xvi. 6 ; xix. 23.
Those Avho fear the Lord regard his law, both as it is recorded in
Holy Scripture, and as it is revealed in their hearts ; and obtain an
inheritance in the new covenant of God ; the covenant of life and
of peace in Jesus Christ ; for, " Behold the days come, saith the
Lord, that I will make a new covenant with the house of Israel,
and with the house of Judah [with all who turn unto the Lord].
I will put my law in their inward parts, and write it in their hearts:
and Avill be their God, and they shall be my people ; and they shall
teach no more every man his neighbour, and every man his brother,
saying. Know the Lord ; for they shall all know mc, from the least
of them to the greatest of them, saith the Lord, for I will forgive
their iniquity, and I will remember their sin no more. " Jer. xxxi.
31—34. Heb. viii. 8—12.
This " Law of the Lord " is written in the hearts of mankind by
the Holy Spirit, or " Holy Ghost, whom, " said Christ, " the Fa-
ther will send in my name ; he shall teach you all things, and
bring all things to your remembrance, whatsoever I have said unto
you. " John xiv. 26. " When he, the Spirit of truth, is come, he
will guide you into all truth. " " And when he is come, he will
reprove [or convince] the world of sin, and of rigliteousness, and of
judgment. " John xvi. 8. 10. 13. The operation of this Spirit on
the mind of man is continually referred to in the Scriptures as es-
sential to religion ; and is described under a great variety of simili-
tudes and terms, according to its diversified effects. The work of
the Holy Spirit is ever to enlighten the mind, and to lead man in
the paths of righteousness and peace. It is therefore called "Light."
" All things that arc reproved, " says the Apostle Paul, " are made
manifest by the Light : for whatsoever doth make manifest is Light.
Wherefore, he saith. Awake thou that sleepest, and arise from the
dead, and Christ shall give thee Light. " Ephes. v. 13. 14.
Now, all have, at times, known sin to be made manifest to them.
xil APPENDIX. C.
SO that they have been convinced in their own minds that some
things they were tempted to commit were offensive in the sight of
God. And when they have neglected this warning, and have com-
mitted the sin, though no man might know of its commission but
themselves, they have felt an inward consciousness that it was
known unto God ; and a secret fear — a dread, has attended them,
that their " sin would find them out" (Numb, xxxii. 23), if not in
this world, at any rate in the next ; and thus they have felt uneasy
in their minds. All mankind may be boldly appealed to as having
felt thus, at one season or other, though they may not hitherto
have known what it was that thus secretly convinced them of sin :
it may have been as a light shining in darkness, and not compre-
hended; for, said the evangelist John, "The Light shineth in dark-
ness, and the darkness comprehended it not. " Let all know, how-
ever, that that which convinced them was the Light of the Holy
Spirit, the Light which cometh by Jesus Christ. " In him was life,
and the life was the Light of men : " — This is the Light by which
He who is the " true Light, lighteth every man that cometh into
the world. " John i. 5. 4. 9.
The object for which Christ our Saviour thus enlightens mankind,
is clearly set forth by the Apostle Paul, in the passage already re-
ferred to (Eph. V. 13, 14), and again in these striking expressions;
" God who commanded the light to shine out of darkness hath
shined in our hearts, to give the light of the knowlenge of the glory
of God, in the face of Jesus Christ." And, "If our Gospel be hid,"
he adds, " it is hid to them that are lost : in whom the god of
this world hath blinded the minds of them which believe not, lest
the light of the glorious Gospel of Christ, who is the image of God,
should shine unto them." 2 Cor. iv. 3. 6. Precisely parallel to
this testimony, is the spirit of the following declaration of Christ
himself: " This is the condemnation, that Light is come into the
world, and men loved darkness rather than light, because their
deeds were evil ; for every one that doeth evil hateth the Light,
neither cometh to the Light, lest his deeds should be reproved: but
he that doeth truth cometh to the Light, that his deeds may be
made manifest that they are wrought in God." John iii. 19. 21.
The term Grace is variously used in the Holy Scriptures, in
which the plan of salvation is spoken of as the " Grace of God."
It is so called, because this salvation is received through the mercy
of God in Christ Jesus ; and for his sake, not for our own, " lest
any man should boast." It is likewise declared, that it was by
grace, through faith, that the saints of old were saved ; and that
THE WAY OF SALVATIOX. xiii
this gi-ace came by Jesus Christ. " By grace are ye saved, through
faith, and that not of yourselves ; it is the gift of God : not of
works, lest any man should boast : for we are his workmanship,
created in Christ Jesus unto good works, which God hath before
ordained that we should walk in them." Ephes. ii. 8 — 10. " The
law was given by Moses, but grace and truth came by Jesus Christ."
John i. 17.
The Holy Spirit is also alluded to, under the appellation of Grace,
and its teaching as the teaching of the Grace of God ; and it is
declared that this " Grace of God, that bringeth salvation, hath ap-
peared to all men " (for all are thereby convinced of sin) ; " teach-
ing us that, denying ungodliness and worldly lusts, we should live
soberly, righteously, and godly in this present world ; looking for
that blessed hope, and the glorious appearing of the great God, and
our Saviour Jesus Christ, who gave himself for us, that he might
redeem us from all iniquity, and purify unto himself a peculiar peo-
ple, zealous of good works." Tit. ii. 11 — 14. This grace is suffi-
cient to enable a man to overcome all evil. " My grace is sufficient
for thee," were the words of the Lord Jesus to Paul ; and without
this grace none can know Christ to be their Saviour, who came to
" save his people from their sins," (Matt. i. 21.), or know him to
destroy the works of the devil in them. 1 John iii. 8.
Let none, therefore, remain in blindness, hating the Light, and
disregarding the grace of God ; or continue at enmity with God by
wicked works : but may all believe in Christ, who is the " Light of
the world," " the way, the truth, and the life " (John xiv. 6), and
come unto the revelation of his grace, or good Spirit, manifested in
the heart, as unto that without which they cannot be saved. The
words of our gracious Redeemer himself are : " I am come a Light
into the world, that whosoever believeth on me should not abide in
darkness." " I am the Light of the world, he that followeth me
shall not walk in darkness, but shall have the Light of light." "I am
come that they might have life, and that they might have it more
abundantly." John xii. 46; viii. 12; x. 10.
Christ directed the attention of mankind, to the "Light," or
"Grace," or "manifestation of the Spirit," by many similitudes, in
order that this important doctrine might be rendered plain to all sin-
cere enquirers after the truth. He compared the kingdom of heaven
to "a grain of mustard seed, which indeed is the least of all seeds,
but when it is grown, it is the greatest among herbs, and becometh
a tree, so that the birds of the air come and lodge in the branches
thereof." Matt. xiii. 31, 32. The seed of Divine Grace, though
xiV APPENDIX. C.
easily overlooked in its first appearances, yet when not resisted, but
suffered to remain in man's heart, not only regulates the affections
and unruly passions of men, but brings " into captivity every thought
to the obedience of Christ." 2 Cor. x. 5.
The kingdom of heaven is also declared by the Saviour, to be
" like unto leaven, which a woman took and hid in three measures
of meal till the whole was leavened " (Matt. xiii. 33) ; because,
when the grace of God is suffered to work, it gradually leavens the
heart of man into its own pure and heavenly nature, until the whole
becomes leavened or changed. This change is alluded to in Christ's
conversation with Nicodemus, as being "born again" — "born from
above," without which, it is declared, " a man cannot see the king-
dom of God." John iii. 3. It is that " treasure hid in a field,
which, when a man hath found'* — when he has once become con-
vinced of its divine nature and origin, and the glorious end for which
it appears in his heart, viz. : that through this medium God may
"work in him both to will and to do of his good pleasure" (Phil.
ii. 13) — " he hideth, and for joy thereof goeth and selleth ail that
he hath, and buyeth that field " (Matt. xiii. 44. 46.) ; he prizes it
as something exceedingly precious, as " a pearl of great value ;"
and willingly parts with every thing that may hinder his access to
this inestimable treasure, or that may endanger its continuance in
his heart : in other words, he renounces all his beloved lusts, and
denies himself of every sinful gratification, that he " may win
Christ." Phil. iii. 8.
Where Christ's dominion is thus established in the heart, that
sublime prophecy of Isaiah, fulfiled long ago by the coming Christ
in the flesh, is also fulfilled in the experience of the Christian :
" Unto us a child is born ; unto us a son is given : and the govern-
ment shall be upon his shoulder, and his name shall be called
Wonderful, Counsellor, the Mighty God, the Everlasting Father,
the Prince of Peace : of the increase of his government and peace
there shall be no end." Isa. ix. 6, 7. This is that spiritual king-
dom or government for the coming of which Christ taught his
disciples to pray : " thy kingdom come, thy will be done in earth
as it is in heaven" (Matt. vi. 10): and which he declared, " cometh
not with observation." " The kingdom of God cometh not with
observation, neither shall men say, lo here ! or lo there ; behold
the kingdom of God is within you." Luke xvii. 20, 21. "The
kingdom of God is not in word, but in power." 1 Cor. iv.
20. It " is not meat and drink, but righteousness and peace and
joy in the Holy Ghost." Rom. xiv. 17.
THE WAY OF SALVATION. XV
Salvation by Jesus Christ is, indeed " tlie mystery wHcli has
been hid from ages and from generations, but now is made manifest
to his saints, [and all are called to be saints] to whom God will
make known what is the riches of the glory of this mystery, which
[says the Apostle Paul] is Christ in you, the hope of glory. " Col.
i. 26, 27. Those who rightly estimate this " unspeakable gift "
(2 Cor. ix. 15), will be solicitous to have their hearts made clean ;
for the heart in which Christ takes up his abode must be holy. "If
a man love me, " is the language of our blessed Redeemer, " he
will keep my words, and my Father will love him, and we will
come unto him, and make our abode with him. " John xiv. 23. It
is thus that the Christian becomes " the temple of the living God."
" Know ye not that ye are the temple of God, and that the Spirit
of God dwelleth in you ; if any man defile the temple of God, him
shall God destroy ; for the temple of God is holy, which temple ye
are." 1 Cor. iii. 16, 17. "For ye are the temple of the living
God ; as God hath said, I will dwell in them, and walk in them ;
and I will be their God, and they shall be my people. Wherefore
come out from among them, and be ye separate, saith the Lord,
and touch not the unclean thing, and I will receive you, and will
be a father unto you, and ye shall be my sons and daughters, saith
the Lord Almighty. " 2 Cor. vi. 16—18.
Thus, ever since the Gospel began to be preached, those who
have believed in the Light — who have had faith in the Grace of
God — who have been led by the Spirit ; have uniformly been en-
lightened thereby to perceive their fallen and sinful state, have
attained unto true repentance and been enabled to look upon Jesus,
" the Lamb of God which taketh away the sin of the world, " so as
to have peace with God through him ; being strengthened " to
walk in the Spirit, not fulfilling the lust of the flesh ; but glorifying
God in their body and in their spirit, which are God's. " John xii.
36. Ephes. ii. 8—10. Rom. viii. 14. John i. 29. Rom. v. 1.
Gal. V. 16. 1 Cor. vi. 20.
May all strive to become of this happy number, who constitute
" so great a cloud of witnesses " to the efiicacy of faith in the
power of Divine Grace ; that thus, " laying aside every weight, and
the sin which doth so easily beset them, they may run with patience
the race that is set before them, looking unto Jesus, the Author
and Finisher of [all true] faith ; who, for the joy that was set be-
fore him, endured the cross, despising the shame, and is set down
at the right hand of the throne of God. " Heb. xii. 1,2.
" God so loved the world that he gave his only begotten Son,
XVI APPENDIX. C.
that whosoever belie veth in him should not perish, but have
everlasting life : for God sent not his Son into the world to condemn
the world, but that the world through him might be saved. " John
iii. 16, 17. May all beheve, therefore, in the mercy of God, which
is freely offered to them in the Lord Jesus Christ : for, as *' God
spared not his own Son, but delivered him up for us all, how shall
he not with him also freely give us all things. " Rom. viii. 32.
" He was wounded for our transgressions, he was bruised for our
iniquities, the chastisement of our peace was upon him ; and with
his stripes we are healed. All we, like sheep, have gone astray ;
we have turned every one to his own way ; and the Lord hath laid
on him the iniquity of us all. " Isa. liii. 5, 6.
God is willing to forgive the sins of those who repent, for Christ's
sake, who died for them, " the just for the unjust, that he might
bring us to God. " 1 Pet. iii. 18. " Him hath God exalted with
his right hand, to be a prince and a Saviour, for to give repentance
and forgiveness of sins. " Acts v. 31. Christ said, "No man can
come to me, except the Father which hath sent me draw him. "
John vi. 44. Have not all been thus drawn ? Have not all often
felt convinced of sin, so as on many occasions clearly to distinguish
the difference between right and wrong ? These convictions, then,
were the drawings of the Father, by his Eternal Spirit, seeking to
lead mankind unto the Son, that they might obtain eternal life
through him.
We read in the Scriptures, that under the law of Moses, when a
man had sinned, he was to take his sin-offering to the priest, to
lay his hand upon its head, and to slay it ; and the priest was to
take of its blood, and to put it on the horns of the altar, and to
pour out the rest at the bottom of the altar, and to burn its body
upon the altar, to make an atonement for him, that his sin might
be forgiven. Lev. iv. In taking his sin-offering to the priest, the
sinner thus confessed that he had sinned : by laying his hand upon
its head, he made himself, as it were, one with his sacrifice : in
slaying it, pouring out its blood, and offering its body on the altar,
he acknowledged the justice of God, in passing sentence of death
on sin. " In the day thou eatest thereof thou shalt surely die. "
Gen. ii. 17. " The soul that sinneth it shall die. " Ezek. xviii. 4.
" The wages of sin is death. " Rom. vi. 23. Hereby the sinner
offered the life of his sacrifice in the stead of his own life — its blood
in the place of his own blood : for " without shedding of blood
there is no remission. " Heb. ix, 22.
This is a lively type or representation of the way of salvation
THE WAY OF SALVATION. XVii
under the Gospel. The sinner is to confess his sins to God ; to
remember that the awful death which Christ, " who did no sin, "
(1 Pet. ii. 22), suifered on the cross, was due to sin (2 Cor. v. 21) ;
and that it is for his sake that forgiveness of sin is offered to those
who repent (Luke xxiv. 47. Ephes. iv. 32) : for He is " the Lamb
of God which taketh away the sin of the world. " John i. 29. The
conditions of acceptance are, " repentance toward God, and faith
toward our Lord Jesus Christ. " Acts xx. 2L
But he who truly repents and believes, or has faith in Christ,
believes in the truth of all his sayings, and feels the necessity of
obeying his precepts : he is baptised with the baptism of Christ,
even with the Holy Ghost and with fire. " I indeed baptise you
with water," said John the Baptist, but one mightier than I cometh,
the latchet of whose shoes I am not worthy to unloose : he shall
baptise you with the Holy Ghost and with fire : whose fan is in
his hand, and he will thoroughly purge his floor, and will gather
the wheat into his garner, but the chaff he will burn with fire un-
quenchable. " Luke iii. 16, 17. Christ, who is the "Power of
God " (1 Cor. i. 24,) like a " consuming fire, " (Deut. iv. 24.
Heb. xii. 29) is revealed in the hearts of true believers, cleansing
them from every corruption, even as gold is purified by fire, " for
the trial of their faith is much more precious than of gold that
perisheth. " 1 Pet. i. 7. Such know, from heartfelt experience,
that " the baptism which now saveth is not the putting away the
filth of the flesh [not any outward washing], but the answer of a
good conscience towards God, by the resurrection of Jesus Christ "
(I Pet. iii. 21) ; who cleanses them from every defilement " by the
spirit of judgment, and by the spirit of burning. " Isa. iv. 4. And
thus, " Zion is redeemed with judgment, and her converts with
righteousness. " Isa. i. 27.
Those who thus believe and are baptized, whatever name they
may bear as to religion among men, constitute that " one body,"
<' the Church, " of which Christ is " the Head. " (Ephes. i. 22, 23.
Colos. i. 18) ; all such are " the children of God by faith in Christ
Jesus. " Gal. iii. 26. " For by one Spirit are we all baptized into
one body, whether we be Jews or Gentiles, Avhether we be bond or
free, and have been all made to drink into one Spirit. " 1 Cor. xii.
13. " Through him they have access by one Spirit unto the Fa-
ther ; they are no more strangers and foreigners, but fellow-citizens
with the saints, and of the household of God ; and are built upon
the foundation of the apostles and prophets, Jesus Christ himself
being the chief corner-stone ; in whom all the building fitly framed
Xvlii APPENDIX. C.
together, groweth unto an holy temple in the Lord : in whom they
also are builded together for an habitation of God through the
Spirit." Ephes. ii. 18— 22.
Our Heavenly Father is willing to give the Holy Spirit to those
who sincerely ask it of him. "Ask," says Christ, "and it shall
be given you; seek, and ye shall find; knock, and it shall be opened
unto you ; for every one that asketh receiveth, and he that seeketh
findeth, and to him that knocketh it shall be opened. If a son
shall ask bread of any of you that is a father, will he give him a
stone ? or, if he ask a fish, will he for a fish give him a serpent ?
or, if he shall ask an egg, will he ofier him a scorpion ? If ye,
then, being evil, know how to give good gifts unto your children,
how much more shall your Heavenly Father give the Holy Spirit
to them that ask him ? " Luke xi. 9 — 13. O, that all would believe,
then, that God is willing to hear and to answer the prayers of them
that desire to be made what he would have them to be, how weak
and unworthy soever they may feel themselves ! " Like as a father
pitieth his children, so the Lord pitieth them that fear him ; for he
knoweth our frame, he remembereth that we are dust. " Ps. ciii.
13, 14. And he regardeth the prayer of the heart, for " He know-
eth the secrets of the heart." Ps. xliv. 21. 1 Sam. i. 13.
Many persons have no private place, or closet, to retire into, to
" pray to their Father who is in secret ; " but all may pray in the
closet of their own hearts, and the Lord will hearken to the sincere
breathings that arise from thence, and will regard them as accept-
able incense, whether they be expressed with the tongue or not.
Let all, therefore, lift up their hearts unto him, whenever, and
wherever, they may feel their necessities ; whether it be by night
or by day, in the house or in the field. Let them " pray unto their
Father which is in secret, and their Father which seeth in secret,
will reward them openly. " Matt. vi. 6. And let none be dis-
couraged from staying their souls upon God, by any sense of their
past delinquencies : for none are invited to pray in their own names,
but in the worthy name of Jesus, (John xiv. 13, 14; xv. 16), who
" is able to save them to the uttermost that come unto God by him,
seeing he ever liveth to make intercession for them. " Heb. vii. 25.
Wherefore, all are invited to " come boldly to the Throne of Grace,
that they may obtain mercy and find grace to help in time of need."
Heb. iv. 16. And they are encouraged to do so by the assurance
that Christ was " in all points tempted like as we are, yet without
sin" (Heb. iv. 15); that, therefore, he "can have compassion on the
ignorant, and on them that are out of the way" (Heb. v. 2.); and "in
THE WAY OF SALVATION. xlx
that he himself hath suffered, being tempted, he is able to succour
them that are tempted." Heb. ii. 18. May all, therefore, be willing
to seek reconciliation with God through him. 2 Cor. v. 18 — 21.
Some persons have but few of the outward means of religious
instruction : but if such desire to learn righteousness, God is willing
to teach them himself by the Holy Spirit, the Spirit of Truth, who
" will guide them into all truth. "
It is a profitable exercise to wait upon the Lord in stillness, to
feel after his presence, with the attention turned to the state of the
heart before him, remembering that he is ever with his children :
for " God that made the world, and all things therein, seeing that
he is Lord of heaven and earth, dwelleth not in temples made with
hands ; neither is worshipped with men's hands, as though he
needed anything ; seeing he giveth to all life, and breath, and all
things; and hath made of one blood all nations of men, for to dwell
on all the face of the earth ; and hath determined the times before
appointed, and the bounds of their habitation : that they should
seek the Lord, if haply they might feel after him, and find him,
though he be not far from every one of us ; for in him we live, and
move, and have our being. " Acts xvii. 24, 28. And he has com-
manded us, saying : " Be still and know that I am God." Ps. xlvi.
10. "Keep silence before me, O islands, and let the people renew
their strength ; let them come near, then let them speak ; let us
come near together to judgment. " Isa. xli. 1. " It is good for a
man that he bear the yoke in his youth : he sitteth alone and keep-
eth silence, because he hath borne it upon him : he putteth his
mouth in the dust, if so be there may be hope. " Lam. iii. 27 — 29.
God will make himself known to those who thus wait upon him ;
and will deliver them : for it was declared by the prophet Isaiah,
in referring to the dispensation of the Gospel, that " it should be
said in that day, Lo, this is our God, Ave have waited for him, and
he will save us : this is the Lord ; we have waited for him, we will
be glad and rejoice in his salvation. " Isa. xxv. 9.
Those who have the Holy Scriptures ought frequently to read
them: for " all Scripture is given by inspiration of God, and is pro-
fitable for doctrine, for reproof, for correction, for instruction in
righteousness : that the man of God may be perfect, throughly fur-
nished unto all good works. " 2 Tim. iii. 16, 17. "They are they
which testify of me, " said Christ. As people give attention to his
Light or Grace in their hearts, thus coming unto Christ that they
may have life (John v. 39, 40), he will open their understandings,
and enable them to understand these precious records aright ; and
b2
XX APPENDIX. C.
such will know from happy experience, that " the Scriptures are
able to make them wise unto salvation, through faith which is in
Christ Jesus. " 2 Tim. iii. 15.
Persons who diligently read the sacred volume, and attend to the
Light of Christ, to which it directs them, cannot continue in bond-
age to Satan. But many who profess to be Christians are under
his grievous yoke, as is too clearly proved by their sinful practices ;
" for of whom a man is overcome, of the same is he brought in
bondage " (2 Pet. ii. 19) ; and by pride and avarice, cursing, swear-
ing, and other profane language, fornication and uncleanness, op-
pression and overreaching, fraud and theft, and numerous other
sins, it is but too plain that many are " taken captive by the devil
at his will " (2 Tim. ii. 26) ; and thus by their sins dishonour God,
before whom they must shortly give account ; for he " shall judge
the secrets of men by Jesus Christ " (Rom. ii. 16) ; and " we must
all appear before the judgment-seat of Christ ; that every one may
receive the things done in his body, according to that he hath done,
whether it be good or bad. " 2 Cor. v. 10.
Let none defer the work of repentance, under the delusive notion
that they will repent when drawing near unto death : for " this
night," it may be said unto any man, "thy soul shall be required of
thee. " Luke xii. 20. Many have gone on in sin, thinking they
would repent before they died, who have either been cut off sud-
denly, or prior to death have been given up to hardness of heart,
so as to be wholly indifferent about the state of their souls. These
have, indeed, died " as the fool dieth " (2 Sam. iii. 33) ; the end
of the beasts that perish would have been infinitely preferable to
theirs. Ps. xlix. 18, 20. "For what shall it profit a man if he
shall gain the whole world, and lose his own soul ? Or what shall
a man give in exchange for his soul? " Mark viii. 36, 37. Some
"who, in anticipation of death, have appeared to be penitent, have,
when unexpectedly to themselves, their lives have been prolonged,
failed to bring forth fruits meet for repentance ; and on the con-
trary, have relapsed into habitual sin. Hence it is to be inferred,
that though possibly some of these might be cases of sincere re-
pentance, yet the greater number deceived themselves, as well as
others, who had hoped better things of them.
To defer seeking repentance and reconciliation with God, to
the approach of death, is but to make a league with the devil,
to serve him as long as a man can, and thus to wrong his own
soul. All ought to remember with awe the declaration of the Most
High : " My Spirit shall not always strive with man, for that he
THE WAY OF SALVATION. Xxi
also is flesh. " Gen. vi. 3. And the emphatic expostulation of tlie
Apostle, " Despisest thou the riches of his goodness and forbear-
ance and long-suffering, not knowing that the goodness of God
leadeth thee to repentance ? But after thy hardness and impeni-
tent heart treasurest up unto thyself Avrath, against the day of
wrath and revelation of the righteous judgment of God. " Rom.
ii. 4. 5. None know how short may be the day of the Lord's mer-
ciful visitation to their souls. They ought, therefore, to beware
that they " do not frustrate the Grace of God" (Gal. ii. 21) ; for
if his grace be withdrawn, they may seek " a place of repentance "
when too late. Heb. xii. 17. "To-day, therefore, to-day, if ye
will hear his voice, harden not your hearts. " Heb. iii. 7. 15.
Experience proves the truth of the Scriptural declaration, that
" Man is born to trouble as the sparks fly upwards. " Job v. 7.
Now, as nothing happens but under the Providence of God, with-
out whose notice not a sparrow falls to the ground, all ought to
consider the cause and end for which God suffers them to be af-
flicted. The cause often is, that men cast the fear of the Lord
behind them. Intemperance, lewdness, gaming, pride, avarice, neg-
lect of the Sabbath, or disregard of the Divine Law in some other
respect, too often paves the way for affliction. This consideration,
ought to humble every one before God. For, how often may it be
said, " Hast thou not procured this unto thyself, in that thou hast
forsaken the Lord thy God ? " " Know, therefore, and see, that
it is an evil thing and bitter, that thou hast forsaken the Lord thy
God, and that my fear is not in thee, saith the Lord God of Hosts."
Jer. ii. 17. 19. And this conviction ought to make all watchful
against the sins that "so easily beset them," and which may already
have brought much suffering upon them, lest continued indulgence
should become the means of plunging them into the depths of de-
gradation and misery.
A principal end for which affliction is dispensed to man, while in
a state of probation, is, to turn him to the Lord : who, though a
God of judgment, in the midst of judgment remembereth mercy :
hence, to the very people to whom the language quoted above was
addressed, the following gracious invitation was at the same time
extended : " Return thou, backsliding Israel, saith the Lord, and
I will not cause mine anger to fall upon you : for I am merciful,
saith the Lord, and will not keep anger for ever. Only acknow-
ledge thine iniquity, that thou hast transgressed against the Lord
thy God. " "Return, ye backsliding children, and I will heal your
backslidings. " Jer. iii. 12. 13. 22.
b3
XXU APPENDIX. C.
It is a source of delight to the true Christian to see others walk-
ing in the fear of the Lord : these he is glad to recognise as breth-
ren in Christ, whatever may be their nation or colour or station in
life ; and he cannot but heartily desire their encouragement in every
good word and work ; and that by the continued exercise of faith
and patience, they may inherit the promises, and know the conso-
lations of the Gospel, to comfort them in all their tribulations. 2
Cor. i. 4. But none can understand the joys of God's salvation
until they taste of them in their own experience. " Eye hath not
seen, nor ear heard, neither have entered into the heart of man,
[in an unregenerate state,] the things which God hath prepared
for them that love him : but, " added the Apostle Paul, speaking
of those who were turned unto the Lord Jesus, "God hath revealed
them unto us by his Spirit : for the Spirit searcheth all things, yea,
the deep things of God. " 1 Cor. ii. 9. 10. There are no joys
worthy to be compared to these, and all others must soon come to
an end. " O taste, and see that the Lord is good. Blessed is the
man that trusteth in him. " Ps. xxxiv. 8.
Let such as are not yet turned unto Christ, be encouraged to
seek an acquaintance with him. " Seek the Lord while he may be
found, call ye upon him while he is near. Let the wicked forsake
his way, and the unrighteous man his thoughts : and let him return
unto the Lord, and he will have mercy upon him, and to our God,
for he will abundantly pardon. " Isa. Iv. 6, 7.
And let all people " know assuredly that God hath made that
same Jesus whom the Jews crucified, both Lord and Christ ; "
" neither is there salvation in any other : for there is none other
name under heaven given among men whereby we must be saved "
but " the name of Jesus Christ of Nazareth. " Acts ii. 36 ; iv.
10—12.
APPENDIX.
D.
Extracts of Letters relating to Great Namaqualaxd.
Extract of a Letter from Edward Cook, dated " Siberis, Jonker
Afrikaners Residence, August 24th, 1840."
Agreeably to the arrangements alluded to in my last letter, we
set out to visit the Chief, Ameral, and his people, on the 5th of June.
The journey was characterized by an interesting variety, and ap-
peared to give an aspect to our work more truly Missionary than it
had ever before assumed. Our table in the wilderness was frequently
supphed with game, which varied from the Avild duck, and different
species of the buck kind, up to the unwieldy rhinoceros, which is
nearly as large as the elephant. Our meetings together for divine wor-
ship were especially favoured by the presence of God ; and our Sab-
baths, on all of which we were able to rest, were days of rest indeed.
A class of six persons of our party was formed ; this was made the
means of preserving them from that spiritual declension which is
frequently the consequence of a long journey. Our interpreter was
very providentially delivered from a buffalo, under whose feet he
had fallen ; a circumstance which called from us the most grateful
accents of praise to Him, under whose protection we more than
ever felt ourselves to travel. The remarks of the man himself upon
the occasion were a beautiful manifestation of Christian simplicity.
The same ferocious creature had a few days before killed a poor
Boschman. Our way to Ameral's, lay through a part of the country
thinly inhabited ; we left diflFerent tribes to the right and left of us.
XXIV APPENDIX. D.
Hence we only met with four small companies of natives before we
reached Ameral's ; a month's journey within one day. We found
Ameral living with about 400 people, in unusually good circum-
stances, although entirely dependent on cattle and game. A part
of the tribes are at a distance. There are servants and dependents
employed from one to ten miles distant from the village, about 100;
Boschmans, or persons of Hottentot extraction, not possessing cat-
tle, near to them, and in constant intercourse, 1,000 ; Hill Damaras
under the same circumstances, 1,000. Over these people of dif-
ferent races, Ameral is a little King, and acts with a liberality and
dignity towards them, becoming the name. Half-way between
Ameral's and this, there is a numerous tribe of Namaqua aborigines,
containing from 1,500 to 2,000 souls, with which Ameral's tribe
has intermarried. A part of this people formed Mr. Archbell's
congregation on the banks of the Fish River. The manners of this
latter people we found exceedingly disgusting ; but my soul was
drawn out towards them in pity, and strong desire for their salva-
tion ; while I urged upon them, that the times of ignorance are
past, and that the divine command to all men now is, to repent.
Jonker Afrikaner is living here with about the same number of
people as that with Ameral, and he has a similar intercourse with
the different races of natives. All the three powerful tribes men-
tioned, express a desire to make peace with the more northerly, or
what they call, the Cattle Damaras ; and as far as is known, the
same disposition is felt by the Damaras. With one rich and power-
ful tribe, Jonker has already made a formal peace, by an exchange
of assagais for cattle ; that tribe is not far distant from Walvisch
Bay. The relative situation of Bassonabies, Ameral's residence,
appears to be six weeks' journej'', with an ox-wagon, or perhaps 800
miles distant to the north-east, from our Bechuana Stations. Its lat-
itude is nearly the same as Walvisch Bay, from which it is distant
nearly west, three weeks with an ox-wagon; perhaps, when the
nearest way is found, the journey may be performed in a fortnight.
All the country from Ameral's, nearly to Walvisch Bay, has been
occupied by the Cattle Damaras; but it properly belongs to the Hill
Damaras, whom the former drove from it ; and in their turn, they
have been recently driven out by the marauding tribes, joined and
assisted by the Hill Damaras, with whom they now possess the coun-
try. I have visited Alexander's Bath, about twenty miles south-east
from this, and do not think it adapted to our Missionary purposes.
The country about Bassonabies is fruitful, and very interesting for
scenery, but deficient in valuable timber. It connects with it.
EXTKACTS OF LETTERS. XXV
however, a fine flat, watered by periodical floods, upon which, pro-
bably, could be successfully cultivated rice, sugar-cane, Indian-corn,
&c. The whole of the country, as far as we have come, is gener-
ally fruitful ; but so much confined by mountains and limestone-
hills, as greatly to detract from its utility.
With Ameral's people we have resided upwards of a month ; and
notwithstanding the inconvenience of a mat-hut, and the privations
which we were called upon to undergo, we were amply rewarded in
the good which we witnessed. Shortly before leaving them, twenty-
six persons, who had afforded good evidence of a work of grace
upon their hearts, were admitted to communion with the church ;
the members in society, are now upwards of thirty in number. In
the course of the following week, twenty-four couples were united
in matrimony, the greater part of whom had formerly lived together.
During my absence in this direction, our interpreter remains with
them, to continue the services and the school ; the latter is nu-
merously attended, and very interesting. I regret exceedingly, that
there is not a native teacher for this people.
"We have come as far as this, at the particular request of the
Chief, who sent men and oxen to assist us ; and it is probable that
I shall yield to the urgency of him and Ameral, and go as far as
Walvisch Bay. Ourselves and children are in tolerably good health,
although affected by the extreme changes from heat to cold. The
thermometer is sometimes 96° at three o'clock in the afternoon,
and 30° at three o'clock in the morning.
Extract of a Letter from Edward Cook, dated " Nisbett Bath, Great
Namaqualand, 8th December, 1840."
After an absence of six months, we returned to this Station on
the 4th inst. It was my intention, without delay, to have given
you a lengthened and particular account of our journey. I find,
however, that the present opportunity will aflSord only time for a
very hasty letter. My last was dated Siberis, Jonker Afrikaner's
residence, Aug. 24. On the 25th, after repairing our wagon in the
best way we could, we set off" toward Walvisch Bay. Our way
lay across, and for some distance, along the course of the Koorsip
River. The country we found rather thickly inhabited by Hotten-
tots and Berg Damaras, but chiefly by the latter. At most of our
resting places, they augmented our number at the religious ser-
vices, and expressed a wish to be taught the things which the
whites knew. In two instances, I made the Chief a present of a
cow, and assured them that the Gospel was teaching the powerful
APPENDIX. D.
Hottentots no longer to murder and plunder them, but rather to
give to them, and to assist them. All the different tribes, we found,
had been completely stripped of their flocks and herds ; they now
subsist, with a few additions from game and other varieties, upon a
small, but very agreeable bulb, which grows chiefly upon the stony
hills. The ground in the vicinity of the Koorsip produces spon-
taneously, this nutritious and agreeable vegetable, in such abun-
dance, that hundreds of natives live together in robust health, and
with very little moving about ; having been reared up within a few
miles of the place of their birth, they know no other parts, nor have
any acquaintance with other tribes, living within a few days' journey.
As they gathered round us in groups, their tall, athletic figures,
and handsome, European features, improved by their generally
cheerful temper, rendered them exceedingly interesting, and induced
us the more to sympathize with them, in the hard usage they have
experienced from the semi-civilized and wily Hottentot races, and
in their present neglected condition.
Walvisch Bay is situated at the mouth of the Koorsip ; but we
were obliged to travel to it by a circuitous route, to the north, and
we first reached the sea-shore at the mouth of the Swahkop River,
latitude 21° 50'. From this point, I visited this bay, on horseback,
and afterwards spent, with my family, a week upon the shore.
Thus far we had travelled with a company augmented from 150 to
nearly 300, chiefly of Jonker Afrikaner's tribe ; the others consisting
of a Chief, with about twenty men, were the people upon whose ter-
ritory we now rested. The tribe is supposed to be of Hottentot ex-
traction ; but their features are very different, and especially marked
by a high nose. They, however, as well as the Berg I)amaras, speak
the Hottentot language, and know no other; and in this particular,
there is a marked distinction between them and the more northerly
tribes of Damaras, who are commonly called the " Beast Damaras,"
from, their possessing abundant herds of cattle. From the same
cause, it probably arises, that they have no friendly intercourse with
each other. The Damara language is strikingly smooth and agree-
able to the ear, and I should say, from what I have heard, it bears
no affinity to the Caffer, [probably it is a dialect of the Sechuana.]
The tribe described above, as living in the neighbourhood of
Walvisch Bay, consists of 1,500 souls, and they live in friendly
intercourse with the Afrikaners. They are very desirous to have
a Missionary, and being accustomed to economical expedients,
and manly labour, as well as to a stationary residence, in obtain-
ing their subsistence chiefly fi'om the sea, they present a favourable
EXTRACTS OF LETTEKS. XXVll
soil to work upon, and would be a great assistance in the
commencement of a mission by sea. The country is barren,
yet not incapable of supporting sheep and cattle. The wide beds
of the Koorsip and Swahkop afford abundance of reeds and other
varieties for cattle, in the driest seasons, and abound Avith fine tim-
bers, suitable for building. Another division of the tribe last men-
tioned, are living three or four degrees further north, and there,
the country is described as being adapted for cultivation.
One very large and wealthy tribe of Berg Damaras, is situated
about fifty miles distant, and another of the same description, se-
venty ; the nearest of the Damaras who speak a distinct language,
125. From the mouth of the Koorsip northward, the sea runs far
into land, and thence the character of the country and soil appear
to alter for the more favourable. There are also several bays from
one to three degrees further northward, which should be visited
before a Missionary be established, as they might afibrd a situation
not only more fruitful, but more convenient for the Damara tribes.
The quantity of flesh which we obtained in passing the country of
the Damaras, is almost incredible, especially that of the bulky Rhi-
noceros. In the neighbourhood of the sea, nine bufialoes were
shot in one day ; and during our stay on the shore, we abounded
in fish. Seals abound : it is a good coast for whales. Amongst
the large number of Afrikaners who travelled with us, there was
much promise of spiritual good, and a numerous class was formed.
Extract of a Letter from Thomas Laidman Hodgson, dated " Cape
Town, 20th September, 1843."
YoTT will rejoice to hear that the Rhenish Missionaries are set-
tled with Jonker Afrikaner, a little nearer the Damaras than his
residence, at the time you were in this country. He has made
peace with the Damara tribes. The Rhenish Missionaries intend
forming a Station with the Topnaars, near Walvisch Bay, and open-
ing a communication by sea. We shall, of course, feel the advan-
tage of this, as Mr. Tindall is appointed to reside with Ameral,
and to be assisted by another. The Rhenish Missionaries will plant
the standard of the Cross not far from the coast, and we hope to
extend east, west and north, as Divine Providence may appear to
appoint, at some distance from them.
APPENDIX.
E.
A Word of Christian Counsel to the White Inhabit-
ants of South Africa.
Accept, we entreat you, a word of Christian counsel, from two
persons, who have spent two years amongst you, for no other pur-
pose than to promote the Avelfare of their fellow men, under the
influence of that love which knows no distinction of Country, but
looks upon all men as brothers, and desires the salvation of all,
knowing that " God hath made of one blood all nations of men, for
to dwell on all the face of the earth."
Nineteen months of the time spent in South Africa have been
occupied in travelling from place to place, visiting the inhabitants
in their towns and villages, and more solitary places of abode. "We
have also met with many who were sojourning in the wilderness,
or travelling in search of a better land. Our hearts have been
warmed with desire that all these, might become partakers of "grace,
mercy and peace from God the Father, and the Lord Jesus Christ
our Saviour." And we have been comforted in meeting with such
as through "repentance toward God and faith toward our Lord
Jesus Christ" had become upright Christians, and were already
partaking of these rich blessings.
But our hearts have been filled with sorrow on account of many
others, who while they were professing to be Christians, were
bringing forth fruits, which proved they were not the servants of
Christ, who said, " a good man out of the good treasure of the
heart bringeth forth good things : and an evil man out of the evil
CHRISTIAN COUNSEL. XXIX
treasure bringeth fortli evil things ;" " Wherefore by their fruits ye
shall know them."
We have observed among those who were not walking according
to the Gospel, as well as among those who were, a commendable
esteem for the Holy Scriptures ; and we desire you may compare
what is here addressed to you with what is written in God's Holy
Book, and with what the Holy Spirit bears witness to, as truth, in
the secret of your own hearts ; for " all Scripture is given by inspi-
ration of God, and is profitable for doctrine, for reproof for correc-
tion, for instruction in righteousness ; that the man of God may be
perfect, thoroughly furnished unto all good works," and even in
these things, " it is the Spirit that beareth witness because the
Spirit is truth."
None who truly repent can willingly live in sin : and yet how
many are there among you, who habitually give way to anger,
wrath, cursing, lying, and over-reaching, as well as to other open
sins ; sometimes even as soon as they come out of their places of
worship, cursing their servants; or after reading the Holy Scriptures
and speaking against lying to their children, setting them the ex-
ample of lying to their faces ; others being covetous, are ever ready
to take undue advantage in their dealings, forgetting the solemn
admonition ; " That no man go beyond and defraud his brother in
any matter, because that the Lord is the avenger of all such."„ May
we not mornfully exclaim in the language of the Apostle? "Brethren
these things ought not so to be."
There are, however, among you those who are circumspect and
scrupulously honest, watching over their own hearts in the fear of
God, and thus bringing glory to his great Name. These are good
examples in the midst of you, and worthy to be imitated.
We have met with not a few, whose minds have been greatly
chafed by the abolition of Slavery. We could feel for these, con-
sidering that they had been trained up under the mistaken notion,
that Slavery was not inconsistent with the Gospel; a view that
prevailed very generally during the period when the Christian
Church was corrupted from its primitive purity ; but which, in the
present day, is acknowledged to be contrary to the spirit and pre-
cepts of the Gospel, in all the Protestant Churches of Europe.
That Slavery is altogether opposed to the law of God, is abund-
antly evident from the Holy Scriptures, Even under the law of
Moses it was declared that "he that stealeth a man and selleth him,
or if he be found in his hand, he shall surely be put to death." Now
the slave holder has either stolen his slaves, or has bought or
XXX APPENDIX. E.
received them or their offspring, from those who have stolen them,
or who are implicated in the theft ; and thus has become a party in
the guilt. For he who buys or receives that which he knows to
have been stolen, makes himself partaker in the sin of the thief,
and transgresses against the law of God in this respect. And the
Apostle Paul cautions against being "partaker of other men's sins:"
and amongst the most flagrant sinners he distinctly mentions "men-
stealers."
But Christ Jesus our Lord, who inculcated a purer morality
than Moses, has declared that " the labourer is worthy of his hire."
Hence to exact labour without a reasonable compensation is con-
trary to the precept of the Redeemer.
Again, Christ has commanded us, saying, "All things whatsoever
ye would that men should do unto you, do ye even so to them."
Now if we were slaves we should certainly wish to be made free ;
therefore it is our duty, if we have slaves, to make them free, or
we do not act according to the saying of Christ. Masters are
enjoined by the apostle Paul, to " give unto their servants that
which is just and equal, knowing that they have themselves a Mas-
ter in heaven." And the apostle James, in denouncing those who
enrich themselves by unjust means, uses these words, of very awful
import, " Behold the hire of the labourers which is of you kept
back by fraud, crieth : and the cries of them which have reaped
are entered into the ears of the Lord of Sabaoth."
The British Nation being convinced of the sin of slavery, (many
years after the law Avas made, by which every person setting foot
on the British Islands became free,) resolved to wash its hands
effectually of this sin. The people of Great Britain accordingly
consented to give twenty millions of pounds sterling, to pay for the
freedom of the slaves in the Colonies, receiving no other benefit in
return, than the answer " of a good conscience before God" in this
respect; desiring that the Colonists might also, with themselves, be
delivered from the sin of slavery. But how has this sacrifice been
met on the part of many who have received a share of the Com-
pensation Money ? We are assured that the truly pious in South
Africa rejoice that slavery is done away. But are there not many
others who declare, either in words or by their conduct, that they
are provoked at the liberation of the Slaves ? Are not many gone
beyond the Frontier chiefly on this account ?
The blessing of God has attended those who favour the freedom
of their fellow-creatures, as has been conspicuously proved in the
history of our own church. Nearly a century ago, the members of
CHRISTIAN COUNSEL. XXxi
the Christian community with which we as individuals, are connected,
became convinced that to hold slaves was unlawful for Christians.
They accordingly set their slaves at liberty, without either receiving
or desiring compensation. But such was the blessing that attended
this act of faithfulness, that the measure proved highly favourable
to both their temporal and spiritual advancement, confirming them
in the conviction, which they had long acknowledged in principle,
and had aimed to reduce to practice, that it is for the true interest
of mankind, in every point of view, to conform unreservedly to the
precepts of Christ.
" The earth is the Lord's, and the fulness thereof," and he has
promised that " no good thing will he withhold from them that
walk uprightly." But who have ever hardended themselves against
him and have prospered ? Let all be entreated to consider the judg-
ments of the Lord, that have come upon this Land since this reluct-
ance to let the people go free has been entertained. How have first
the horses of the country been swept away by thousands with the
sickness, and subsequently the Inhabitauts by the Measles and the
Small Pox ! And, of those who emigrated from places where they
had abundance of the necessaries, and not a few of the comforts of
life, how many have been miserably cut off by their enemies, in the
land which they coveted to possess ; or have there become reduced in
their circumstances ! For how long a period did the Land suffer
from drought ; and in some districts, as on the western coast this
year, nearly fail altogether in yielding its produce ! As God visited
the disobedient Israelites in days of old, and has in all ages visited
such as have striven against his will, so has he visited the people of
this Land : and unless they turn more decidedly unto him who
has smitten them, is there not reason to fear that he will yet
chastise them more and more ? Already is the language of the
Most High but too applicable ; "I have smitten you with blasting
and mildew, yet have ye not returned unto me, saith the Lord."
The Lord is a God that changeth not. Though he is " merciful
and gracious, longsuffering and abundant in goodness and truth,
keeping mercy for thousands, forgiving iniquity, and transgression
and sin," where these are repented of and forsaken ; yet he has
declared, that He is a God who " will by no means clear the guilty,"
(those who remain impenitent) but will " visit the iniquity of the
fathers upon the children, and upon the children's children, unto
the third and fourth generation."
An inspired Prophet has said : " When the judgments of the
Lord are in the earth, the inhabitants of the world will learn
XXXU APPENDIX. E.
righteousness, and the design of the Almighty in visiting the Land,
unquestionably is, that the hearts of the people may be turned to
himself : and it is only by a timely repentance and forsaking of
their sins, that the Inhabitants can hope to avert the judgments
that are yet impending over themselves and their children. For
there is great reason to fear that up to the present moment, " the
Lord's anger is not turned away, but his hand is stretched out still."
May all give diligent heed, therefore, to the visitations of Divine
Grace ; that " Grace which bringeth salvation and hath appeared
unto all men;" and which is as a light shining into the heart, and
making sin manifest there. This Grace, as it is heartily received
and obeyed, will infallibly lead to true repentance, and to bringing
forth fruits meet for repentance, to faith in Christ, " the Lamb of
God that taketh away the sin of the world," and to a humble walk
before God in righteousness. And the faith that is of " the opera-
tion of God" as it " worketh by love," will assuredly produce in the
heart, not only love to God, but also love to our fellow creatures,
whether white or black, or of whatsoever complexion they may be,
because " Christ died for all men ;" yea he tasted death for every
man.
We learn from Holy Scripture that the Gospel must be published
among all nations ; that "Ethiopia (including the blackest nations
of Africa) shall soon stretch out her hands unto God." And the
redeemed by the blood of Christ shall be out of every kindred and
tongue, and people, and nation. But how have many of the Wliite
Inhabitants of Southern Africa helped forward this glorious work ?
Have not too many, instead of so doing, opposed it ? and though
calling themselves Christians, have even denied the Coloured People
of their household, the privilege of being with them at public worship,
or in their families, when assembled to read the Holy Scriptures or
to engage in other devotional acts? Nay, have not some so despised
and neglected their Coloured People, though born and brought up
with themselves, that they have become men and women without
any knowledge of God and of Christ ? or even that they possessed
immortal souls ?
God declared respecting Abraham, whom he blessed ; " I know
Abraham that he will command his children and his household after
him, and they shall keep the way of the Lord, to do justice and
judgment, that the Lord may bring upon Abraham that which he
hath spoken of him. " And we have been glad to find, here and
there, families following the example of Abraham, and as becometh
Christians, who know that they must give account of themselves
CHRISTIAN COUNSEL. XXXUl
before God, instructing their households, White and Coloured, and
having both present during their family devotions. It has also
afforded us comfort to see that those foolish and sinful preju-
dices, which still exist in some places, have been abandoned in
others, and that in a few towns, the Coloured are allowed to meet
with the White People to worship Almighty God ; and that, in
some instances, the White Inhabitants have also considerately pro-
vided places to meet in, and assisted in supporting Teachers, spe-
cially for the Coloured Classes. This liberality is worthy of Chris-
tians ; and it is to be hoped, it will increase, until " the charity of
every one of you all toward each other aboundeth. "
With respect to the families which have gone beyond the Fron-
tier, such as were compelled by the long drought to take this step,
are greatly to be pitied ; but we are aware, that others emigrated
from the Colony from different motives ; motives, which, were the
parties honest with themselves, their own consciences would not
approve. Many also had allowed their minds to be disturbed,
either by imaginary evils, or by circumstances which emigrating
would not remedy. We doubt not, that in all these cases, the
emigrating parties have had many trials and difficulties to endure,
which justly render them objects of christian sympathy.
We are however persuaded, that if those who have gone be-
yond the Frontier, were but really to turn to Christ, and to suffer
him to rule by the Holy Spirit in their hearts, and over their ac-
tions, so that they might in truth call him Lord, he would both
bless them, and make them a blessing. But if, instead of this, they
seek, in the same spirit, that, alas ! has influenced too many in the
Colony, to " lay field to field till there be no place [for the Coloured
Inhabitants] that they themselves may be placed alone in the
midst of the earth;" "woe" wiU still be unto them from the
Lord : and however such may seek to establish themselves on the
earth, they have reason to apprehend, that, unless they repent, it
will be with them as with a people formerly, who were actuated by
the same spirit ; their " houses shall be desolate, " yea, " their root
shall be as rottenness, and their blossom shall go up as the dust,
because of having cast away the Law of the Lord of hosts, and
having despised the word of the Holy One of Israel. "
And we would earnestly caution those who have been permitted
to overcome the haughty tp-ant Dingaan, to beware how they there-
fore trust in their own arm, or become stout-hearted against God,
resisting the convictions of his Spirit for sin, in the secret of their
own hearts, whereby he, in his longsuffering and mercy, seeks to
XXXIV APPENDIX. E.
draw them unto himself ; and to lead them to take up their daily
cross, and follow Christ: for should they reject the government of
God, he can easily suffer evil to rise up against them from among
themselves, or from any other quarter. Such was the experience
of the Israelites, who, because " they rebelled and vexed his Holy
Spirit, therefore the Lord was turned to be their enemy, and fought
against them." And even in the things in which the Lord saw meet
to grant them the desire of their hearts, he yet withheld his blessing
therewith ; and though he gave them their request, he sent " lean-
ness into their soul. "
The circumstances of many parents, who, from their remote situa-
tion, are unable to send their children to school, have called forth
our sympathy. "VVe know that this is a cause of serious concern to
many ; and we would encourage parents thus situated, to instruct
their children themselves as far as it is in their power. A person
may teach others that which he has himself learned, without being
dependent upon a schoolmaster, who is, nevertheless, very useful
where he can be obtained. We have been gratified to find the
children of some families, who had not the advantage of a school-
master, well instructed, by their parents, or by one of the older
children, who had received more instruction than the rest. This
plan of teaching might be adopted with advantage by many
who may hardly consider themselves equal to it, yet by whom,
on trial, we are persuaded, it would be found quite practicable.
There are very few who are not able to teach their children to read
and write ; and in connexion with the former useful qualification,
every christian parent should feel it an imperative duty, to make
his children thoroughly acquainted with the Holy Scriptures. We
trust, that this is the upright aim of those among you, who desire to
" bring up their children in the nurture and admonition of the
Lord."
The great distance of places of worship is, we know, keenly felt
by many families, a large number of whom make a commendable
effort to get to them occasionally. But there is no need to be un-
duly discouraged on this subject. God, who made us, and who
knows our spiritual, as well as our temporal wants, has provided,
in the dispensation of the Gospel of his Son, for those who dwell
in the wilderness, as well as for the inhabitants of the city ; and
though he makes use of right-minded ministers to awaken sinners
to repentance, and to counsel and instruct such as are converted,
and to build them up in the faith, yet he has made neither repent-
ance, nor instruction in the things of salvation, necessarily dependent
CHRISTIAN COUNSEL. XXXV
on ministers : but according to his ancient promise, the Lord
is himself a " swift witness against sin, " and the teacher of all his
people, who " incline their ear, " spiritually, " unto him. "
God, by his Spirit, which is sent unto man, in the name, and
through the mediation of Jesus Christ, reproves for sin in the secret of
the heart: for the Spirit is that Life which the evangelist John declares
"was in Christ, and was the light of men ;" and Christ is that "true
Light which lighteth every man that cometh into the world." It is
only as man "bringeth his deeds to the light," which is also described
as "the Grace of God that bringeth salvation," that he becomes con-
vinced of sin, so as truly to repent ; and " waiting upon God, in
the way of his judgments " for sin, and earnestly praying unto him
for forgiveness, for Christ's sake, under the sense of his own vile-
ness, that he comes to know Christ experimentally, as " the Lamb of
God which taketh away the sin of the world. " It is only as man
is thus truly " humbled under the mighty hand of God, " and is
willing to dwell under his refining power, "the baptism of the Holy
Ghost and of fire," which is the alone saving and effectual baptism,
that he is exalted in due time, being favoured to feel that his sins
are blotted out for Christ's sake, and that receiving peace in his
soul, " the Spirit itself beareth witness with his spirit that he is a
child of God. " The same Spirit which before condemned him
for sin, now becomes his Comforter in righteousness ; and as he
continues to wait upon God, and to pray to him for help to "walk
in the Spirit, " it becomes also his guide into " all truth. " Such
can testify, that it is by "grace" alone, "through faith" that
" they are saved ; " that " they are washed and sanctified, and
justified in the name of the Lord Jesus, and by the Spirit of their
God. "
Blessed indeed are they who are willing to be thus guided
and taught: " they need not [essentially] that any man teach them,
but as the same anointing [the Holy Spirit], teacheth them of all
things, and is truth, and no lie ; " " they shall be taught of the
Lord, " "who will supply all their need, according to his riches in
glory by Christ Jesus ; " and under all the varying circumstances
of life, they shall know Christ to be " the Shepherd and Bishop of
their souls. "
The Lord will qualify those who thus come unto him, to be taught
of him, to instruct the families which he has committed to them, in
the way of holiness, as they seek unto him for wisdom and strength to
discharge this important duty. These can assemble their families,
and read the Holy Scriptures to them, and use such other means
c2
XXXVl APPENDIX. E.
as they are prepared to adopt " in spirit and in truth ; " and in
these exercises, the Lord would bless them, whether single families,
or more, met together for this purpose.
One means of edification which we would strongly recommend,
having both seen and felt its advantages, is, to spend a little time
in silence after reading, as well as at other suitable seasons, in order
to have the attention of the mind turned to its own state before the
Lord ; to allow of feeling after his presence, " if haply they might
find him ; " thus specially " worshipping him, who is a Spirit, in
spirit and in truth. "
In order to worship the Father in spirit and in truth, it is pro-
fitable to remember, that we are, at ail times, in his presence ; that
he knows our secret thoughts, and marks all our words and actions ;
and that we ought therefore continually to seek help from him to re-
gulate our thoughts, words and actions, in his fear : if this were
the case, our whole life would be an act of worship ; and j3od
Avould grant us a special sense of his life-giving presence, when
met together to acknowledge, publicly, our dependence upon him.
Christ has said, " If a man love me, he will keep my words ; and
my Father will love him, and we will come unto him, and make
our abode with him. " These, then, who keep Christ's words, are
the true worshippers of God, in whom he dwells, and whose hearts
become his temple.
It is to be feared, that through the delusions of Satan, there are
some among you, who imagine themselves to be worshippers of
God, while they habitually neglect Christ's commands, and thus
serve, or worship the devil through sin ; and that these are even
trusting, that, because Christ died for sinners, they shall be saved
through him, though not seeking to be redeemed from the practice
of sin. Now these are plainly deceiving themselves, according to
the declaration of Christ himself, which we would affectionately
press upon the attention of such, desiring that they may be de-
livered from their error. " He that loveth me not, keepeth not my
sayings. " " Not every one that saith unto me. Lord, Lord, shall
enter into the kingdom of heaven ; but he that doeth the will of
my Father which is in heaven. Many will say unto me in that
day. Lord, Lord, have we not prophesied in thy name, and in thy
name have cast out devils ? and in thy name done many wonderful
works ? And then will I profess unto them, I never knew you :
depart from me, ye that work iniquity. "
In travelling among you, we were, in general, received with
a degree of hospitality, of which we hope to retain a grateful
CHRISTIAN COUNSEL. XXXVU
remembrance. Among the many tokens of civility shown us, we
were frequently offered a glass of spirits ; on this custom, wc would
bestow a word of counsel. Though we gratefully acknowledged the
intention, yet the liquor itself we uniformly declined; from the con-
viction, that strong drink, though it enlivens for a moment, is in-
jurious in its ultimate effects, both to the bodies and souls of men.
It renders persons much more liable to be attacked by disease gene-
rally, and in particular, by Zinkings, [a species of rheumatism] a
very common and distressing affection in this land. It also renders
men a more easy prey to temptation, as every one who uses it must
acknowledge, if he reflect on the subject : for will not a man do
many evil things after he has taken a glass, that he would not do
before ?
The example also of masters and mistresses, in using intoxicating
liquors, even in small quantities, so as never to be intoxicated, often
leads their children and servants to desire them, and as they have
opportunity, to use them, greatly to their own injury, as well as to
tiie injury of those with whom they may be connected. This sub-
ject has gained much attention, of latter years, in all civilized coun-
tries, and many hundreds of thousands of people in Europe and
America, and other parts of the world, have, in consequence, left
off the use of intoxicating drinks : and the universal testimony of
all such is, that they enjoy better health without them, and more
easily maintain tranquillity of mind. The heads of families, who,
in this respect, practice christian self-denial, for their own sakes,
and for the sake of others, find it comparatively easy to preserve
their children and servants from using intoxicating drinks. Having
ourselves, for some years, found the benefit of abstinence from these
things, we wish to recommend the subject to your notice, that you
also may partake of the same benefit.
Every situation in life has its peculiar temptations ; and we have
been frequently reminded of the need there is, for those who live
much away from the observation of their fellow-men, to watch over
their own conduct, that they be not betrayed into sins which would
bring a burden upon their souls. Mankind, when living in remote
situations, are more liable to give way to their passions, and to be
guilty of cruelty and oppression to their servants, or others in their
power, such as the Natives [Aborigines], and to commit other acts
that are offensive in the sight of God, than when under the observa-
tion of their equals or superiors. This is the case not in Africa only;
it is common to all countries. The heart is naturally prone to evil,
and where the fear of God is not suffered to prevail, and man feels
c3
XXXVIU APPENDIX. E.
himself away from the restraints of society, he is exceedingly apt
to become an oppressor and an evildoer.
Great, indeed, is the necessity for all to live habitually in the
fear of God ; that they may walk in love toward him, their mer-
ciful Creator and Redeemer, and in love toward their fellow-men.
And it is an unspeakable mercy, that the Lord is ever willing to
hear and answer the prayers that are put up to him in the name of
Jesus, and under a sense of our own need and unworthiness, whether
uttered with the lips, or only in the secret language of the heart.
What encouragement, therefore, is there for all who feel their
own sinfulness and weakness, to " come with boldness unto the
throne of grace, that they may obtain mercy, and find grace to help
in time of need ; " for in Jesus Christ " we have not an High
Priest which cannot be touched with a feeling of our infirmities,
but who was in all points tempted like as we are, yet without sin. "
Were mankind thus to come unto God they would be strength-
ened, through the power of his grace, to " walk in the light, as he
is in the light, and would have fellowship one with another, and
know the blood of Jesus Christ his Son, to cleanse them from all sin."
That this may be your happy experience, is the prayer of your
friends,
JAMES BACKHOUSE,
GEORGE WASHINGTON WALKER.
Cape Toicn, South Africa,
leth of 6th mo. 1840
APPENDIX.
F.
6ep"
,^-'
A Christian Exhortation to the Coloured Inhabit-
ants of South Africa.
Often in the course of two years which we have spent in Africa, on
a visit of Christian love to our fellow mortals, have our hearts been
warmed, when sitting in the congregations of the Coloured People,
under the feeling, that the love of our heavenly Father was extended
toward them ; and we have been sensible of the influence of his
Holy Spirit bowing our souls with theirs before " the God of the
spirits of all flesh." During seasons of this sort, we could have
adopted the language of the apostle Peter, in reference to the gentile
converts of a former age, and have acknowledged that " God which
knoweth the hearts, bare them witness, giving them the Holy
Ghost, even as he did unto us ; and put no difierence between us
and them, purifying their hearts by faith." Our "hearts were
knit together" with theirs " in love," which we continue to feel
toward them ; especially toward such as having received Christ
Jesus the Lord, are seeking help to walk in him, that they may be
"rooted and built up in him and stablished in the faith," and bring
forth fruits of holiness, to the glory of their Heavenly Father.
" God hath made of one blood all nations of men, for to dwell on
all the face of the earth ; " " he fashioneth their hearts alike ; " he
has " set his Son, Jesus, to be a light of the Gentiles, that he
should be for salvation unto the ends of the earth. " And " of a
truth, God is no respecter of persons, but in every nation they that
fear him, and work righteousness, are accepted of him. " The
redeemed of Jesus Christ are " out of every kindred, and tongue, and
people, and nation. " We desire, therefore, in addressing you, to
forget the colour of our skins, and the difierence of our language,
and to write unto you as unto our brothers and sisters in Christ,
desiring that you may all, through repentance and faith in him.
Xl APPENDIX. F.
become numbered among his adopted children ; and that " grace
unto you and peace may be multiplied. "
We have rejoiced in finding many among you turned to the
Lord ; many who having attended to the convictions of his Spirit,
reproving them in their own hearts for sin, have been led by the
same Spirit, to repentance and to faith in Christ, as the propitiatory
sacrifice for sin ; and through him, have received in themselves an
evidence of their sins being forgiven, for his sake ; so that, " being
justified by faith, they have known peace with God, through our
Lord Jesus Christ. " We desire that these may " stand fast in the
faith, quit them like men, and be strong. " But in order to do so,
it is necessary for them to " watch and pray, that they enter not
into temptation. "
It is a common device of the devil, to try to persuade such as
have tasted that the Lord is gracious, that they must not expect to
be delivered from the practice of sin till they die ; and that, if they
learn, in all their transgressions, to look unto God, through Jesus
Christ, for forgiveness, this is all the salvation Avhich is proposed to
them in the Gospel. This is a miserable delusion. But if the
tempter can induce us to believe thus, and so cause us to fall from
our steadfastness, or to cease from striving against sin, his end is
answered, and he is quite willing that we should, at the same time,
believe ourselves to be true Christians.
The apostle John declares, that " every man who hath the hope
in him of seeing his Saviour, purifieth himself, even as he is pure;"
and adds, "Little children, let no man deceive you : he that doetli
righteousness, is righteous, even as he is righteous : he that com-
mitteth sin is of the devil, for the devil sinneth from the begin-
ning : for this purpose, the Son of God was manifested, that he
might destroy the works of the devil. " And these works are sin,
under every form. "Whosoever is born of God, [that is, perfectly,]
doth not commit sin, for his seed remaineth in him, and he cannot
sin, because he is born of God. In this, the children of God are
manifest, and the children of the devil. Whosoever doeth not
righteousness, is not of God. " The angel of the Lord likewise, in
conveying his heavenly message to Joseph, said, " Thou shalt call
his name Jesus, for he shall save his people from their sins. " Ob-
serve, the words are not m their sins, but '■'■from their sins. " And
Christ's own exhortation is, " If any man will come after me, let
him deny himself, and take up his cross, and follow me ; " and his
declaration is, " He that loveth me not, keepeth not my sayings. "
May you, therefore, have faith in the power of God to save from
CHRISTIAN EXHOKTATION. xli
the power of the devil ; for " greater is he that is in the Christian,
than he that is in the world." Believe that Jesus Christ, our great
High Priest, is "able to save them to the uttermost that come unto
God by him;" not only so that they may obtain forgiveness for past
sin, whenever they feel its burden, and truly repent, but also, so as
to give them power to withstand temptation. In this faith, " resist
the devil, and he will flee from you ; draw nigh unto God, and he
will draw nigh unto you. " Thus will you be " kept by the power
of God, through faith, unto salvation," from the power, as well as
from the guilt of sin ; and " being made free from sin, and become
servants to God, ye will have your fruit unto holiness, and, in the
end, everlasting life. "
Hear also the testimony of the apostle Paul ; '* If ye live after
the flesh, ye shall die ; but if ye, through the Spirit, do mortify the
deeds of the body, ye shall live. For as many as are led by the
Spirit of God, they are the sons of God. " Now the Spirit of God
leads no man into sin ; but as man ceases to trust in himself, and
seeks help from God to walk in holiness, " God works in him, both
to will and to do of his good pleasure. "
We wish to encourage you, to seek help from God, to come out
of everything that defileth, that ye may become his adopted chil-
dren. " Wherefore, come out from among them, and be ye sepa-
rate, saith the Lord, and touch not the unclean thing ; and I will
receive you, and Avill be a father unto you, and ye shall be my sons
and daughters, saith the Lord Almighty. " Then will you become
the temple of the living God, as God hath said, " I will dwell in
them, and walk in them, and I will be their God, and they shall be
my people. "
If the love of God dwell in your hearts, with a thankful sense of
his goodness, you will become prepared to encourage one another
in righteousness, and according to your respective gifts, to invite
others to taste of that great salvation, of which the Lord has made
you partakers : for " there are diversities of gifts, but the same
Spirit ; " and " a manifestation of the Spirit is given to every man
to profit withal. " Some of these gifts are for exercise in the
assembled church, and others in a more private way, but all under
the quickening, constraining influence of the love of Christ, to his
glory, and the spreading of the knowledge of the mercy of God,
through him.
We do not wish, that you should be active in this great work, in
the forwardness of the unrenewed mind ; but rather, that you may
seek, in all humility, and with holy zeal, to promote the honour
xlii APPENDIX. P.
of God. And we are persuaded, that the knowledge of his mercy
in Christ Jesus, will be greatly promoted, through those who are
taught by his Spirit, directing others to the same teaching.
The apostle Paul says, " God hath not appointed us to wrath,
but to obtain salvation by our Lord Jesus Christ, who died for us ;
that whether we wake or sleep, we should live together with him.
Wherefore, comfort yourselves together and edify one another." And
Peter says, " As every man hath received the gift, even so minister
the same one to another, as good stewards of the manifold grace of
God ; if any man speak, let him speak as the oracles of God; if any
man minister, let him do it as of the ability which God giveth,
that God in all things may be glorified, through Jesus Christ. "
Faithful gospel ministry is a great means of edification, and those
who labour in the Gospel with a sincere heart, are " worthy of
double honour. " We have rejoiced to find so many of this descrip-
tion settled among you, and to see some of your own number,
in various places, raised up " to labour in word and doctrine." The
spread of the Gospel, which these desire to promote, would be
greatly advanced, if you were more diligent in seeking to have " the
salt of it, in yourselves ; " so that wherever you go, you might
shew forth the praises of Him who hath called you out of darkness
into his marvellous light ; " " having your conversation honest
among the Gentiles, that they also might by your good works,
which they should behold, glorify God in the day of visitation."
When within reach of a place of worship, where the Gospel of
Christ is preached, be diligent in attending it : and when not near
enough to attend, you may still assemble together to wait upon
God. Remember the injunction of the apostle, " Let us consider
one another to provoke unto love and good works, not forsaking
the assembling of ourselves together as the manner of some is, but
exhorting one another."
It is pleasing to observe among you, an increasing disposition to
seek religious instruction, and to attend public worship. These are
important duties. But beware of substituting the means of edifica-
tion for the end. The great end and object of all religious
exercises is, that we may be led unto God, and learn to stay our souls
upon him, having our expectation from him ; that we may come
under his teaching and guidance, so as to be led into the belief and
practice of all truth. *' Without Christ we can do nothing." But
with the aid of his grace, or good Spirit strengthening us, we can
do all things needful to salvation. And the " word of his grace "
" is nigh in the heart,' convincing of sin, and building up the obe-
CHRISTIAN EXHORTATION. xlili
dient and faithful soul in holiness, and thus preparing it for a
heavenly inheritance among all those that are sanctified.
Many suffer loss from expecting to be edified by hearing the Gospel
preached, while their hearts are too little turned to the Lord, and to
their own state before him; as well as from not endeavouring suffi-
ciently, to feel what is expressed in singing and prayer. Some, again,
are injured by becoming vain of their own voices, and by giving way
to envy or anger with respect to the singing of others. Thus in
various ways, the enemy of all good adapts his temptations to our
circumstances ; so that, if not on the watch, persons may engage
in things which they regard as duties, and yet in a wrong spirit.
Satan tries also to puS" up some people with a conceit, that they
are better than others, both among the Coloured and the White ;
and to lead one class of persons to despise another. But those
who are so pufied up or despise others, please not God, and are
contrary to all reasonable men, and are deserving of the apostolic
rebuke, " Who maketh thee to difier from another ? and what hast
thou that thou didst not receive ? Now, if thou didst receive it,
why dost thou glory as if thou hadst not received it? "
It is necessary to guard against pride and vanity in dress, ac-
cording to the exhortation of the Apostles, for many are tempted to
indulge in ridiculous gaiety, or extravagance in decking their per-
sons, not only in regard to clothing, but likewise in the wearing of
ornaments, such as rings and beads, which by nourishing the sin-
ful propensities of fallen nature, tend to alienate the mind, or to
keep it estranged from God, " who resisteth the proud, but giveth
grace to the humble, " and who has pleasure in "the ornament of a
meek and quiet spirit, which, in his sight, is of great price. "
In our travels, we have met with many who, to obtain a liveli-
hood, were obliged to live far from places of worship, and from sta-
tions Avhere religious instruction is communicated. Some of these
had had the privilege of being at Mission Schools, when young, but
had lost the art of reading for want of practice; they therefore could
not edify themselves, or their families, or neighbours, by reading the
Holy Scriptures. The only means of keeping in remembrance the doc-
trines of the Gospel possessed by many of this class, was, to repeat
the hymns which they had been taught. Nevertheless, among these
there were some who were living in the fear of the Lord, to whom
our souls were united in a measure of the fellowship of the Gospel.
But Avhile we looked upon them as monuments of divine mercy and
grace, we lamented that they should not possess the advantages
which others, who diligently read their Bibles, enjoyed in the wil-
derness.
Xliv APPENDIX. F.
We would recommend all parents, whose children have learned
to read, to encourage them to read a little every day, from God's
Holy Book. It is an excellent practice for every family to assemble
together daily, to listen to the reading of the Holy Scriptures, with
their hearts attentively directed unto God, that he may enlighten
their understandings, and that they may be instructed by what is
read ; also, when the reading is over, to remain a little time toge-
ther in silence, to " feel after his presence, that they may find him,"
and be prepared by the sense which his Spirit gives them of their
spiritual wants, to pray to him availingly for their supply. Persons
who are far from a place of worship, might profitably spend a large
portion of their time in this way on the Sabbath.
" The Lord seeth not as man seeth; for man looketh on the out-
ward appearance, but the Lord looketh on the heart, " he heareth
the sincere breathings of the soul that is lifted up to him in the
secret language of thought, as well as the sincere prayer that is ex-
pressed in words. This was a consolation to the Psalmist, and will
be to all who feel their continual need of divine help. The words
of David are, " Lord, all my desire is before thee, and my groaning
is not hid from thee."
It is a great comfort to the Christian to remember, that there is
not a thought in his heart but God knoweth it altogether, and that
God is always ready to help him to turn away from evil thoughts,
and is willing to regard his secret, or vocal prayers, whenever, or
wherever they are put up in sincerity ; so that he may Avorship the
Lord while following his fiocks and herds, as well as whilst tilling
the land, or sitting in the house, or lying down to rest.
And if people were to meet together to wait upon God, in the
way of public worship, when no one might be present to preach, or
even to read to them, and were quietly to endeavour to stay their
souls upon the Lord, lifting up their hearts tmto him in secret
prayer, or dwelling under the feeling of their unworthiness before
him, yet trusting in his mercy in Christ Jesus, they would certainly
receive his blessing, and would know, in their own experience,
the fulfilment of Christ's promise, that, wherever two or three are
gathered together in his name, there he is in the midst of them.
Though the Lord might sometimes give the persons so met to-
gether, to feel their own corruption, poverty and unworthiness ; in
order that they might be weaned from dependence on themselves,
and be taught to trust in him and in his mercy in Christ, and to
seek the comfort of the Holy Spirit ; yet at other times he would
give them to feel of his goodness, and to behold something of his
glory ; yea, " his banner over them would be love. "
CHRISTIAN EXHORTATION. xlv
May no man be able to charge any of you with dishonesty or
drunkenness, or any other thing dishonourable to you as men or as
Christians; for these are among the things which bring "the wrath
of God upon the children of disobedience. " Many are ready to
put temptation in your way ; making themselves servants of Satan
to gain an advantage over you. There is reason to suspect that
the trader who offers you intoxicating drink, wishes to get more
from you for his goods than they are worth ; and that the person
who gives you strong drink for your services, desires to abridge
you of your wages.
Unhappily, some of you have become so deceived as to wish for
strong drink, or even to require it as part of your allowance along with
your wages. Such are their own greatest enemies, and are inflicting
a deep injury on their bodies and souls ; and in their folly they
often extend this injury to their companions, by pressing strong
drink upon them as a token of kindness. Beware of either giving
or receiving this accursed thing, by which the bodies of countless
thousands have been destroyed, and their souls lost for ever in hell.
" Touch not, taste not, handle not, " for " wine is a mocker, strong
drink is raging, and whosoever is deceived thereby, is not wise. "
When God created man, he " placed him in the garden of Eden,
to dress and to keep it. " But man sinned, and God drove him
out of the garden, and told him, that " in the sweat of his face he
should eat bread, till he returned unto the ground out of which he
was taken. " While man is living in a heathenish state, " having
no hope, and without God in the world, " he is apt to neglect the
cultivation of the ground, and to become idle, and therefore miser-
able ; but when he turns to the Lord, he becomes more industrious ;
and either by cultivating the ground, or some other useful occupa-
tion, earns his bread by the sweat of his face. Acting thus ac-
cording to the appointment of his Maker, man becomes more set-
tled in his abode : he begins to understand the convenience of a
house and a permanent home, and of a regular supply of food, in
the place of the precarious subsistence obtained by hunting and
collecting what grows of itself; in numberless other ways, he is
brought under circumstances favourable to the comfort of his body,
and the improvement of his soul in knowledge and virtue, by which
his happiness is greatly increased. Use diligence, therefore, in all
your concerns. The wisest of men tells us, that " the hand of the
diligent maketh rich ;" and " shall bear rule ;" that "his soul shall
be made fat ;" and that " his thoughts tend only to plenty." But
on the contrary, that " the slothful shall be under tribute ; " that
xlvi APPENDIX. P.
" liis way is a hedge of thorns;" that '< he is brother to him that is
a great waster ; " and that " his desire killeth him, for his hands
refuse to labour." " I went, " says Solomon, " by the field of the
slothful, and by the vineyard of the man void of understanding ;
and lo ! it was all grown over with thorns, and nettles had covered
the face thereof; and the stone wall thereof was broken down.
Then I saw and considered it well : I looked upon it, and received
instruction. Yet a little sleep, a little slumber, a little folding of the
hands to sleep : so shall thy poverty come as one that travelleth,
and thy want as an armed man. "
We have been much grieved to observe among you, some who
are a great burden upon their friends, living in idleness, and going
from one to another, consuming the victuals of the industrious, and
thus keeping those whom they call their friends, in poverty, instead of
going to the ant, and learning her ways, and being wise. " These
ought truly to be ashamed of themselves. They render themselves
contemptible ; and as they justly bear an evil name, they bring a
reproach upon their friends, and even on the community to which
they belong. The Apostles of Christ set an example of diligence ;
and commanded, that " if any man would not work, neither should
he eat. "
The habit of cleanliness is also very important. Keep your per-
sons, as well as your houses and garments, clean. This will add to
your comfort, and will make you more respected : your clothes will
also last longer. Such of you as are in the station of servants,
and keep their persons, and the places committed to their care,
clean, will be more valued by their employers, who will be likely to
take more interest about them. Endeavour to have seats to sit
upon : it is difficult to be cleanly where people sit upon the ground.
Be careful not to waste your time in unnecessary visiting, which
leads to idle gossiping, and many other evils. The apostle Paul
condemns those that are " idle, wandering about from house to
house; and not only idle, but tattlers also, and busybodies, speaking
things they ought not ; " and he advises " the young women to be
sober ; to love their own husbands, to love their children ; to be
discreet, chaste, keepers at home, good, obedient to their own hus-
bands, that the word of God be not blasphemed. " — Teach your
children obedience, that they may fulfil the command of the apostle,
" Children, obey your parents in the Lord, for this is right. "
We desire your advancement in temporal circumstances, as well
as your growth in piety and virtue, and would therefore recom-
mend those who cannot read, to endeavour to learn, and all to
CHRISTIAN EXHORTATION. xlvil
send their children regularly to school. Many of you are dilio-ent
in attending Sabbath Schools. "We Avish there were more of
this number ; for then would there be fewer of those, particularly
about Cape Town, who, instead of spending the day, set apart for
rest from labour, and for the special worship of God, in a way that
is pleasing to him, openly dishonour him, by playing, washing
clothes, or engaging in other work suited only for the six days
given us to labour. Many who spend the Sabbath in this way, were
but lately released from slavery ; God, by his overruling power,
having brought about their freedom. We would entreat such to
consider, how they will answer to him in the Day of Judgment, for
their ingratitude in thus openly setting his laws at defiance, by
neglecting to keep this day unto him.
There are also not a few, especially in Cape Town, who, as soon
as they became free, joined themselves to the followers of Mahomed,
or the Malays. It must be admitted, that persons professing to be
Christians, but whose works were not in accordance with Christ's
precepts and example, had behaved unkindly to many of these in
the days of their bondage. This, probably, made them more ready
to listen to the Malay Priests, who being first deceived themselves,
and teaching their false doctrines with a shew of kindness, were
the means of deceiving the unwary. The unchristian deportment
of those who called themselves Christians, but whose works shewed
that they were undeserving of the name, does not, however, prove
Christianity to be a lie, any more than a kind manner in the Ma-
homedan priests, which it might be politic in them to assume, or
might even be sincere, proves Mahomed to be a true prophet.
Under a feeling of that love, which Christ inspires, and which
desires the good of all men, but especially the salvation of their
never-dying souls ; we would entreat the Malays, if they value
their own peace, to consider what is the foundation of their hope,
that they shall stand before God with acceptance, in the Day of
Judgment. What has Mahomed done for man ? He did not lay
down his life for sinners : he is no mediator between God and man :
he could neither save himself nor his followers. For he was a false
prophet, and with all other deceivers, is under God's wrath.
But Christ left the glory which he had with the Father before the
world began ; he took upon himself our nature ; set us a righteous
example, going about continually doing good ; laid down his life
for us, bearing our sins in his own body on the tree, namely, upon
the cross, for the healing of our souls ; and is exalted to the right
hand of God, where he ever liveth to make intercession for us. His
xlviii APPENDIX. F.
doctrines are opposed to slavery, oppression, deceit and all other sin.
And God raised up true Christians (such as believe in Christ, and
follow him), to plead in England for the freedom of the slaves, in
this and other countries, until it was brought about. Had it not
been for these Christians, who exerted themselves for the emancipa-
tion of the slaves, and consented to the payment of the money for
their freedom, they might have been in bondage at this day. How,
then, have these emancipated slaves shewn their gratitude to God
the Father, and to Christ his beloved Son ?
The followers of Mahomed openly declare, that they despise the
Lord Jesus Christ, and reject that salvation which God the Father
is offering to mankind, through him. How many, who have thus de-
spised the goodness of the Lord, have lately been cut off by the
measles and the smallpox. The judgments of the Lord have over-
taken them ! Their opportunity for repentance is gone for ever !
Others, however, are spared a little longer ; and with these, as well
as with many others, who are out of the way of salvation, the Lord
continues to plead by the reproofs of his Spirit. May all give
timely heed thereto, lest they become hardened in impenitence ;
for God hath declared, that " his Spirit shall not always strive with
man. " And to such as are cut off in their sins, it will indeed be
*' a fearful thing to fall into the hands of the living God. " We
would earnestly invite all to listen to the voice of God ; to that
which reproves them for sin in the secret of their own hearts, and
by which he seeks to bring them to repentance, and to faith in
Christ, "the Lamb of God, which taketh away the sin of the
world ; " that through him they may not only experience the for-
giveness of sins that are past, but also obtain power to fulfil all
righteousness, and receive the Holy Ghost as a Comforter, to abide
with them for ever.
Having ourselves partaken of the salvation which comes by Jesus
Christ, and of the comfort of the Holy Spirit, from which, we are
persuaded, nothing short of our own wilful rebellion against God
can ever separate us, we cannot but fervently desire, that all man-
kind may become partakers of the same " unspeakable gift."
And now being about to leave this land, we would " commend
you to God, and to the word of his grace, which is able to build
you up, and to give you an inheritance among all them that are
sanctified. " Your friends,
JAMES BACKHOUSE,
GEORGE WASHINGTON WALKER.
Cape Town, South Africa, the 20th
oftheUh month, 1840.
APPENDIX.
G.
Observations, submitted in Brotherly Love, to the Mis-
sionaries and other Gospel Labourers, in South
Africa.
Befoke entering upon a religious visit to the Inhabitants of South-
ern Africa, we felt a deep interest respecting the many devoted men,
who, being connected with the Missions of different denominations
of Christians, were labouring to turn the benighted Native Popula-
tion " from darkness to light, and from the power of Satan unto
God. " — Assured that these disinterested individuals had renounced
many earthly comforts, and the prospects of worldly advancement,
from a concern for the souls of their fellow-mortals, we " esteemed
them highly in love for their work's sake ;" and there was a settled
conviction upon our minds, that they were peculiarly objects of the
compassionate regard of our Heavenly Father. — This conviction was
confirmed as we visited the respective Stations, and had the privi-
lege, in most instances, of gaining a personal acquaintance with the
parties. And now that our general visit is completed, we believe
it to be our duty, under the continued feeling of sympathy and
christian affection, both for the persons in the station of Missiona-
ries, and those acting as Assistants or Catechists, to solicit their
attention to a few subjects, connected with the great and glorious
work in which they are engaged.
The feeling of lively interest has also been excited in our hearts,
on behalf of the persons who minister to Congregations of Colonists ;
to them we would likewise address the salutation of christian love,
and commend to their consideration such of the following remarks
as they may feel applicable to themselves, in reference to the re-
sponsible office they have undertaken.
We apprehend that serious discouragements often press upon the
minds of the sincere-hearted labourers, especially when they con-
template the magnitude of the work before them, and the little,
d
1 APPENDIX. G.
comparatively, that has been effected, as well as the tardiness of its
progress. We may record, however, our conviction, that the mea-
sure of success which has been granted, in the reception of the
Gospel, by a greater or less number of individuals in every place,
and in the more general abandonment of barbarous and superstitious
practices, and adoption of civilized habits, abundantly proves that
the labour bestowed has not been in vain in the Lord. Whilst
bearing, therefore, in continual remembrance, that the " sufficiency
of the faithful labourers is not of themselves, but of God ; " and
that, " except the Lord build the house, they labour in vain that
build it ; " there is ample encouragement to persevere, in humble
dependence upon him for a further blessing.
But in order to secure the divine blessing, how essential is it
that all seek to know what their individual duty before God is ; and
seek for ability from him to perform it. The Lord is ever ready to
help those who trust in him alone, and who, feeling their own weak-
ness and unworthiness, pray unto him in the name of Jesus for the
supply of their need ; his promise to these is, "Whatsoever ye shall
ask in my name, that will I do, that the Father may be glorified
in the Son. " — To ask in the name of Jesus, a man must know the
power of the Holy Spirit operating upon his mind, and its enlight-
ening influence, giving him a sense of his own unworthiness. It
is his privilege, if one of Christ's flock, to " know his voice," and
to distinguish it from " the voice of the stranger ; " to experience
*' the good Shepherd to put him forth, and to go before him. " —
It is unspeakably important for all, but especially for those who
" labour in word and doctrine, " to " hearken diligently " unto the
voice of Christ, waiting upon him, not only to be convinced of evil
by the Holy Spirit, but also, " of righteousness," that they may be
guided into all truth ; and that thus, " believing with the heart
unto righteousness, " — " believing in the name of the Son of God,"
— they may not only receive the evidence in themselves, that their
sins are forgiven for his sake, but that, " this may be the confidence
they have in him, that if they ask anything according to his will,
he heareth them. "
It is absolutely essential, before any can labour successfully in
the Gospel, that they themselves understand it experimentally. For
how shall a man teach that Avhich he has not learned ? " If the
blind lead the blind, both shall fall into the ditch. " And the eyes
of the teacher must, not only have been once opened to that light
which makes sin manifest, and in which the children of God "have
fellowship one with another, and know the blood of Jesus Christ,
his Son, to cleanse them from all sin," but there must be an abiding
OBSERVATIONS, &C. ll
in the light, — a continued walking therein. This is aptly set forth
by the Redeemer himself, under the similitude of the vine and the
branches : " As the branch cannot bear fruit of itself, except it
abide in the vine, no more can ye, except ye abide in me. He that
abideth in me, and I in him, the same bringeth forth much fruit :
for without me ye can do nothing."
Among the fruit here referred to, an apostle has enumerated,
" faith, virtue, knowledge, temperance, patience, godliness, bro-
therly-kindness, charity ; " and has added, " He that lacketh these
things is blind, and cannot see afar off, and hath forgotten that he
was purged from his old sins." But those who are called of Christ
to preach the Gospel, and who, abiding in him, bring forth fruit to
his glory, fulfil the command, to " teach, baptizing into the name of
the Father, and of the Son, and of the Holy Ghost." This baptism
is not effected by water, but by the power of the Holy Ghost ; *' the
Spirit of their Father which spcaketh in them, " and which alone
gives efficacy to the words spoken, so as to convince men of sin,
prompt them to seek reconciliation with the Father, through the
mediation of the Son, under the sanctifying influences of the Holy
Spirit, and thus it builds them up in the faith. — Without the preacher
himself be in Christ, his words, however sound and correct they
may be as to doctrine, however replete with *' knowledge, " being
destitute of the " charity," or love which " edifieth, " they will be
as inefficacious, " as sounding brass, or a tinkling cymbal. "
As the successful promulgation of the Gospel thus depends on
its being advocated under the influence of divine power, though
" this treasure is dispensed through earthen vessels, that the excel-
lency of the power may be of God, and not of men, " so Satan sets
in array against this scriptural view of the subject, not only the
speculations of the carnally minded, but also, the sophisms of par-
tially enlightened christians. The former, having assumed the
christian name, that they may lull conscience to sleep, often make
great professions of regard for the Scriptures, while they contemn a
belief in that teaching of the Spirit, to which the Sacred Volume so
abundantly bears testimony ; and the latter, whose spiritual vision
is comparable only to that of him who "saw men as trees walking,"
pronounce, in their fallacious reasonings, as enthusiastic, this ex-
ceedingly important doctrine of the Gospel.
The enemy of all righteousness likewise opposes to the needful
subjection of the mind to Christ, " the lust of the flesh, the lust of
the eyes, and the pride of life ;" hence it is indispensably necessary
for the disciples of Christ to " watch and pray, that they enter not
into temptation. " Remissness in this respect exposes the mind to
lu APPENDIX. G.
continual danger of being " corrupted from the simplicity that is in
Christ," and to a consequent incapacity to adopt the language
which may be more or less appropriated by every faithful ambas-
sador of the Lord Jesus, " Now thanks be unto God, who causeth
us to triumph in Christ, and maketh manifest the savour of his know-
ledge by us in every place : for we are unto God a sweet savour of
Christ in them that are saved, and in them that perish ; to the one,
we are the savour of death unto death, and to the other, the savour
of life unto life : and who [of himself] is sufficient for these things ?
for we are not as many which corrupt the word of God : but as of
sincerity, but as of God, in the sight of God speak we in Christ. "
" The Apostle and High Priest of our profession, Christ Jesus,
who is set down on the right hand of the majesty on high," "who
is a minister of the sanctuary, and of the true tabernacle, which the
Lord pitched, and not man, " was, when on earth, an example to
ministers, as well as to all others. In his ministerial character, he
deeply sympathised with those to whom he ministered ; and we
believe, that such as would be found among his faithful servants,
must be willing to " drink of the cup of which their Lord drank,
and to be baptized with the baptism that he was baptized withal : "
and in patiently enduring the allotted portion of suffering on account
of others, thus to " fill up that which is behind of the afflictions of
Christ, in their flesh, for his body's sake, which is the Church. "
We have felt much for those who, in the discharge of their duty
to their fellow-men, are subjected to many inconveniences and tem-
poral privations. We desire that they may be strengthened to
" endure hardness, as good soldiers of Christ ; " and that they may
patiently submit, not only to these outward trials, but also to those
inward, and, often, painfully humiliating baptisms of the Holy Spirit,
by which self is " made of no reputation, " and which may be ne-
cessary for further purification and refinement, that the servants
may be as " vessels sanctified and meet for the Master's use," and
prepared to labour effectually as " ministers of Christ, and stewards
of the mysteries of God. " The hidden trials that await the truly
devoted are imposed as by weight and by measure ; often to the end,
that they may be more clothed with " compassion for the ignorant
and them that are out of the way," having themselves been the
subjects of temptation and conflict.
The admission of a scriptural liberty in the exercise of spiritual
gifts, is of no small importance in connection with the spread of the
Gospel. We have observed in many places, that the progress of
Christianity has borne a close accordance with the extent in which
this liberty has been admitted ; while in others, loss was evidently
I
OBSERVATIONS, &C. liii
sustained, through the people being taught to look too exclusively to
the Missionary, or other Minister, for instruction ; until there was
danger of their "faith standing " more " in the wisdom," or teaching
of man, than " in the power of God. "
The great end of gospel ministry is to direct people to Christ,
and to the teaching of his Spirit ; which he promised should "teach
his disciples of all things, and bring all things to their remem-
brance : " and those who receive this Spirit, and in whom it abides,
" need not [essentially] that any man teach them, but as the same
Anointing teacheth them of all things, " and which the Apostle has
declared, " is truth, and is no lie, " or delusion. Now, " a manifes-
tation of the Spirit is given to every man to profit withal," though
the gifts of the Spirit are diverse. Some of these gifts are to be exer-
cised in the assembled church, and others less publicly ; and where
way is freely made for such exercise, the spiritually minded among
the people become fellow-helpers in the promulgation of the cause of
truth and righteousness in the earth, and the body at large is edified.
Where the church, when met to transact its affairs of discipline,
consists of " apostles, and elders, and brethren, " according to the
primitive plan, many of its members are found to have the gifts of
" helps and governments," as Avell as those of " prophecy [or minis-
try] and teaching, " &c. all of which are to be valued and used in
their respective places. The latter gifts, particularly, as they have
been rightly exercised, have proved of special service to the mis-
sions ; the people of which, being often scattered in small groups,
cannot be so frequently visited by the Missionary as he would Avish;
but when collected together, and encouraged in their family and
private devotions, by spiritually-minded helpers, they have been
greatly benefited. — Nor is human learning, however valuable, and
deservedly to be esteemed in its place, by any means, an essential
qualification for true christian ministry. The unlearned in the wis-
dom and acquirements of this world, but who, nevertheless, have
been taught in the school of Christ, have not unfrequently been
made, through the power of God, even chief instruments in turning
others unto the Lord.
But, though advocating the scriptural exercise of spiritual gifts,
we are, nevertheless, strongly impressed with the necessity there
is, for all to regulate their movements in these important matters
by the same rule, and only " according to the gift of the grace
of God given unto them : that nothing may be done through strife
or vainglory, " but that the counsel of the Apostle be strictly ad-
hered to, " As every man hath received the gift, even so minister
the same one to another ; as good stewards of the manifold grace
liv APPENDIX. G.
of God. If any man speak, let him speak as the oracles of God ; if
any man minister, let him do it as of the ability which God giveth ;
that God in all things may be glorified, through Jesus Christ. "
We have regretted to observe, in a few instances, black gowns
and other clerical badges, used, even among Missionaries to the
coloured tribes. These things are descended from the church of
Rome, and are in true harmony with its spirit : and though we are
aware, that these and other relics of Popery obtain, even at this
day, among what are styled protestant, or reformed churches, we
would entreat our dear brethren of every church in South Africa,
to beware how they clog themselves and their services with such
" solemn lumber, " Avhich are contrary to the simplicity of the Gos-
pel, and tend to perpetuate the unscriptural notion, that the chris-
tian ministry is restricted to a certain order of men, arrayed in a
particular garb.
Much difference of sentiment prevails among Missionaries, as to
the mode of treatment, proper to be observed towards the Native
Tribes and their Chiefs. We have remarked, that where a frank
and condescending deportment towards the people, combined with
due consideration for their feelings, was maintained, the w^ay to
their hearts became proportionately opened. And where the Chief
was treated with respect, and consulted in such matters as could
with propriety be brought under his notice, in thus rendering
" honour to whom honour is due, " as well as " condescension to
men of low estate, " the result was beneficial, and the influence of
the Missionaries for good, was materially increased.
We apprehend, that great advantage, both spiritually and tem-
porally, would accrue to the Native Tribes, were yet more attention
to be paid to schools. The establishment of Infant Schools is of
incalculable advantage, in bringing the mind early under discipline,
and training it to habits of reflection, pre-occupying it also with
religious principles i ad useful knowledge, before the common cor-
ruption of nature becomes ripened into habit, and the understanding
is darkened by sin and superstition. Children at an early age acquire
a variety of languages Avith facility, and through the introduction
of the English, more especially, a door is opened for obtaining much
useful knowledge, that may become very valuable in connection with
the spreading of the Gospel through the medium of Native Teachers.
The schools for older children are, in general, capable of much im-
provement, notwithstanding that, in some places, the attention paid
to them, is highly creditable to the Teachers, and promises a reward
at a future day, that will amply compensate for the labour bestowed.
— The instruction of the sons of chiefs, and other influential natives,
OBSERVATIONS, &C. Iv
winch, without abating exertions for general education, has boon a
special object of care at some of the missionary institutions is
likely to be attended with permanently beneficial results.
The promotion of agriculture, and mechanical arts, we are con-
vinced, claims more attention than has usually been given to these
objects by Missionary Bodies. Unless the Native Population be
furnished with salutary occupation for body and mind, and the means
of thereby improving their temporal condition, there is a danger of
theu- relapsing into habits of recklessness and sloth, or of seeking,
in the excitements of war and the chase, or in other accompaniments
of semi-barbarism, relief from the painful vacuity which must other-
wise be their experience. When they acquire an interest in the soil,
and become alive to the comforts of a settled place of abode, it will be
less difficult to perpetuate among them the genial influence which
Christianity may have produced, and to carry it forward to maturity.
It has been gratifying to observe the degree in which wars and pre-
(iatory incursions have ceased among tribes which have come under
Missionary instruction, limited as is the extent to which the Gospel
has yet been received. We earnestly desire, that both Missionaries
and those with whom they labour, may learn to look unto the Lord
alone for defence, so that they may in no way identify themselves
with the anti- christian practice of war ; but that continually seeking
the help of the Holy Spirit to enable them to walk worthy of their
peaceful vocation, they may demonstrate to the world, that Chris-
tianity is a system which brings "glory to God in the highest, and
on earth peace, goodwill toward men. "
The advantages of abstaining from the use of all intoxicating
liquors, both as regard health and example, have been abundantly
proved of late years in the experience of multitudes, among whom
are numerous Missionaries. We would recommend this subject to
the solemn consideration of every one engaged in the work of re-
ligious instruction, lest, by countenancing tae ase of that by which
so many of his fellow-creatures are not merely stumbled and made
weak, but utterly ruined for time and eternity, he have to charge
himself with having been indirectly nccessory to such awful results.
We have no doubt, that Missionaries would also feel the reward
of peace in denying themselves of tobacco and snuff, which have
nothing to recommend them ; these, like intoxicating liquors, mate-
rially diminish the means of procuring the necessaries of life, and
of promoting, pecuniarily, the advancement of that which is good.
We should fail in the discharge of a duty, did we shrink from ad-
verting to a subject which has occasionally excited our regret. Very
generally, we have found our Missionary Friends pleased with their
lyi APPENDIX. G.
own fields of labour, but in some instances, disposed to speak slight-
ingly of the fields occupied by others. We think this is of hurtful
tendency, and needs to be guarded against. Everywhere man, in his
unregcnerate state, presents a picture of untowardness. In some
situations, this may be more, and in others less, apparent, as it is
variously modified by circumstances. But how unpromising soever
the aspect of some portions of the human family may be, when re-
garded from a distance, the exercise of the " charity that hopeth a'1
things," is incumbent on christians, especially on those who are la-
bouring for the restoration of their fallen race to a er state ; nor
is it the less so, because their own peculiar allotment u. the vineyard
may present an appearance, in their estimation, more hopeful.
The exercise of this divine charity, in its fulness, caused our grca
and holy Exemplar to lay down his life for all men. He despise
none of the human family. And there is need for all, but particular!
for Missionaries, to have their minds habitually clothed with this eh;
rity, or love, so that no one may regard another with an unwortl
jealousy, or despise another, whether connected with the same,
with a diff"crcnt religious body ; that none be tempted to indulge
a contemptuous spirit toward any brother ; " that no one be puff'
up against another ; " that none give way to " doting about que
tions and strifes of words, whereof cometh envy, strife, railing
evil surmisings; " nor "make a man an offender for a word, n-
lay a snare for him that roproveth in the gate, nor turn aside tj
just for a thing of nought : " but that all may " walk worthy of ib
vocation wherewith they are called, with all lowliness and mee.
ness, with longsuff"ering, forbearing one another in love, ende-
vouring to keep the unity of the spirit in the bond of peace. "
In conclusion, we would add the expression of our fervent desir,
that the blessing of the great Lord of the harvest may rest upa
the Missionaries, and upon their dedicated partners in life. 'V^-
have found the latter, not only deeply interested, but often, exten-
sively useful, in the great work in which their husbands are engaged.
May this blessing be likewise extended to all who are assistants in
so noble a cause ; and may it prosper and prevail until " the earth
shall be full of the knowledge of the Lord as the waters cover the sc'^:'
JAMES BACKHOUSE,
GEORGE WASHINGTON WALKER.
Cape Town, South Africa,
dth of 7th 7710., 1840.
York : Printed by John L. Linney, 15, Low Ousegate.
■J IJ./I1> JUI
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