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 MARCH FROM DELHI TO CABUL. 
 
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JOURNAL 
 
 OF A 
 
 MARCH FROM DELHI TO PESHAWUR, 
 
 AND FROM THENCE TO 
 
 CABUL, 
 
 WITH THE MISSION OF LIEUT.-COLONEL 
 SIR C. M. WADE, Kt. C.B. 
 
 INCLUDING 
 
 TRAVELS IN THE PUNJAB, A VISIT TO THE CITY OF LAHORE, 
 
 AND A NARRATIVE OF OPERATIONS IN THE KHYBER 
 
 PASS, UNDERTAKEN IN 1839. 
 
 BY 
 
 I 
 I 
 
 LIEUT. WILLIAM IBARR, 
 
 BENGAL HORSE ARTILLERY. 
 
 LONDON : 
 JAMES MADDEN & CO., LEADENHALL-STREET. 
 
 1844. 
 
D5Btc3 
 
 ^ 
 
 33 
 
 * 
 
 " The small fort of Ali Musjid has, from its situation, long 
 held the Sikhs in check ; and it is not upon record that the 
 celebrated Khyber Pass has ever previously been forced." 
 Extract from Lord Auckland's letter to the Secret Committee., 
 Simla, August 29th, 1839. 
 
 NRY MORSE ST 
 
 , , . 
 
 .'.'. : *.' :, : 
 
cuz 
 
 TO THE 
 
 REV. JOHN BARR, M.D. 
 
 Cf)tsl 5:Folume 
 
 IS INSCRIBED WITH MUCH AFFECTION 
 
 BY 
 
 His Brother. 
 
 51 1 54(5 
 
 'U 
 
PKEFACE. 
 
 The following pages were originally written for 
 the amusement of a valued relative, and without 
 any intention of being offered to the public. As 
 the Author of them is not aware that any account 
 of the operations undertaken in 1839, by Colonel 
 Wade's auxiliary army, has yet been detailed by 
 an eye witness, beyond a short and ably-written 
 paper in the United-Service Journal, for July, *^ 
 1842, he has yielded to the suggestions of his 
 friends, and now ventures, wdth some diffidence, 
 to submit his roughly-penned notes to the con- 
 sideration of other readers. He does so, at the 
 
yjjj PREFACE. 
 
 present moment, with less reluctance, as the 
 increasing importance of our relations with the 
 Punjab renders every information (however slight) 
 respecting that country acceptable ; and, for the 
 same reason, an interest may perhaps be imparted 
 to his Journal that he could not hope it would 
 otherwise have possessed. 
 
 Dithorn, Staffordshire, 1844. 
 
CONTENTS. 
 
 CHAPTER I. 
 
 FROM DELHI TO KURNAL. 
 
 Preliminary observations Departure from Delhi Allepore 
 Treasure escort Peculiar scene Barotah Soneput The 
 Emperor Musaood His amazing strength Gunnour Su- 
 malka Paniput Battle between Baber and Ibrahim II. 
 Conflict between the Aflghans and Mahrattas Garondah 
 Handsome caravanserai Kurnal Cantonments View of the 
 snowy Himalayahs Page 1 
 
 CHAPTER II. 
 
 KURNAL TO LODIANAH. 
 
 Leave Kurnal Azimgurh Leelokeerie Watch-towers Tha- 
 nesur Mahmood of Ghuzni Attacks Thanesur Destroys 
 the idols Adventure with a Rozinante Shahabad Long 
 march Amballa Handsome bazaar Heavy rain Unplea- 
 sant prospect The treasure -party Peculiar costume An 
 unwelcome intruder Novel thieves March continued 
 Beautiful scene The river Cuggur Rajpoora Visit from 
 the Tahseeldar A Sikh officer Putarsie Sirhind Exten- 
 sive ruins Its antiquity Kunha Dowra-ke-serai Heavy 
 shower Lodianah Bazaar Encampment . . .19 
 
CONTENTS. 
 
 CHAPTER III. 
 
 LODIANAH TO LAHORE. 
 
 Departure from Lodianah Ghonspore Siddum Dhur'm Kote 
 Marriage procession The bridegroom Lieut. Rattray 
 Lose the road Thick grass jungle Futtehgurh A thief 
 His escape Makhoo Its fort Peculiar houses Ride to the 
 Sutledge The ''commandant" of Harike His insolence 
 Encamp neaf the river Visit from the "commandant" 
 Tedious detention The solitary ferry-boat The Sikhs A^ 
 welcome order Passage of the Sutledge Enter the Punjab 
 Camp at Harike Visited by a SJikh of high rank Method 
 of constructing pottery A baoli, or well Putti A cemetery 
 A saint's tomb Sursing Gipsies Manihala Akalhes, 
 or fanatics of the Punjab Lahore Encampment . Page 43 
 
 CHAPTER IV. 
 
 LAHORE. 
 
 Palace gateway Ridiculous embellishments Colonel Foulkes 
 Death of General Allard Visit from the Governor of 
 Lahore Anarcolli A glass room The painted chamber 
 A thunder-storm Allard's country-seat The General's body 
 lying in state Large mausoleum Valuable sword Costly 
 shawls the Maharajah's generosity Novel method of increas- 
 ing the value of a gift Presents from the Maharajah The 
 golden mosque The enamelled mosque Diminutive idol 
 Aurungzebe's mosque Its ruined condition Marble sum- 
 mer-house Rich decorations The Hall of Audience Its 
 filthy state Beautiful idea of the Emperor Jehanguire's 
 The royal entrance Absurd portraits A magnificent foun- 
 tain Its dirty condition The Foundry Abuse from the 
 
CONTENTS. Xi 
 
 Akallies The Shalimar gardens Enchanting scenes Cabul 
 horse-dealers Eastern display Antiquity of Lahore State 
 of the Maharajah's health His excesses imitated by his 
 nobles Kurruck Singh Dhian Singh Sheer Singh Now- 
 ni-hal Singh Page 69 
 
 CHAPTER V. 
 
 LAHORE TO RHOTAS. 
 
 Departure from Lahore The river Ravie Sikh horse-artillery 
 Specimen of a Punjabee ferry Riotous scene 111 treatment 
 of the fair sex Cross the Ravie Beautiful encamping ground 
 A halt Mausoleum of the Emperor Jehanguire Costly 
 sepulchre Barbarous spoliation Long march Bucka 
 Emminabad Gujranwala Cruel execution Harri Singh's 
 fort Ridiculous representation of the battle of Jumrood 
 The idol A caged tiger Detention Beautiful apartment 
 A riot in the " harem" The Sirkani Bagh Runjeet Singh's 
 mausoleum Nattih Wuzeerabad The Thannadar His 
 conduct and invitation A funeral procession The Chenab 
 Cross the river Gujrat A halt A sporting box Fatiguing 
 march Horrible barbarity Dingie " Leila,'-' the celebrated 
 horse Desertion of the camel-drivers Kohar The river 
 Jhelum, or Hydaspes Arduous march A fearful quicksand 
 A serious mishap The fort of Rhotas A ruined palace 
 Singular archway Miserable city The origin of Rhotas 
 
 119 
 
 CHAPTER VI. 
 
 RHOTAS TO PESHAWUR. 
 
 Departure from Rhotas Adriana Buckrala The marauder's 
 village Extremely heavy rain Disturbance in camp 
 Quicksands Execrable road Difficult passage The Buckrala 
 
J,'- CONTENTS. 
 
 pass Dhamak Pakke Jihliara Tope of Manikyala 
 Rawut-ke-serai Beautiful scenery The river Suhan Nar- 
 row defile Rawul Pindee Jani-ke-sung The Margulla 
 pass Disgusting sight Hassan Abdal Burhan A hurri- 
 cane Severe weather The river Arar Busy scene Un- 
 pleasant intelligence Beautiful views Awkward defile 
 Passage of the Indus Khyrabad Peshawur Singh, the go- 
 vernor Fort of Attock Junction of the rivers Cabul and 
 Indus The Geedar Gullie Drunken jemadar Countless 
 graves -- The Chief of Acora Syddoo A concert and dance 
 Sikh cavalry and artillery Akallies Nao Shahra Beau- 
 tiful scene Engagement between the Sikhs and Affghans 
 Camel-stealing The tribe of Eusofl? Zhye Pubbee Allard's 
 dragoons Dancing bears Lieutenant Maule Arrival at 
 Colonel Wade's camp Pag^ 167 
 
 CHAPTER VII. 
 
 CAMP AT PESHAWUR. 
 
 A welcome to Peshawur The Sikh company Officers with the 
 mission Colonel Wade's camp The prince's personal guards 
 Sikh discipline The Shah-zada's state band Douranee ca- 
 valry Shah-zada Timour General Avitabile General Court 
 A durbar The Shah-zada Hashim The prince's doctor 
 His escape from prison Khyberries A parade of the Sikh 
 troops Breakfast with the governor A novel dish Nautch 
 girls Formidable matchlocks A curious sword the gover- 
 nor's house Views from it The City of Peshawur Gateway 
 to General Avitabile's house. 217 
 
CONTENTS. xiii 
 
 CHAPTER VIII. 
 
 CAMP AT PESHAWUR. 
 
 Leave Chumkunnie A procession Pass through the City 
 the houses of Peshawur The fort of Peshawur Breakfast 
 with General Court Ali Murdan His history General 
 Court's artillery Their excellent appearance Their dress 
 A ride through the City Strange costume of the women A 
 funeral The Wuzeer-bagh Its altered character Lord's 
 workshop Quarters of the Khy berries Affghan cookery 
 The fort of Peshawur Description of its interior Dowranee 
 chiefs Deserters General Ventura Mutiny of the Nujeeb 
 regiment Review of General Court's troops Arrival of 
 Prince Nownihal Singh A durbar Rajah Gholab Singh 
 Sultan Mahomed Rajah Lena Singh Rajah Ayah Singh 
 Prince Nownihal Singh His magnificent jewels the dur- 
 bar tents A princely gift Rajah Gholab Singh's durbar 
 Expedition against Sadut Khan A storm Want of disci- 
 pline 7Spi.es Methods of carrying secret despatches An 
 unwelcome emetic Serious affray A Chupar wounded 
 Occupation of Candahar Noisy rejoicings The Shah-zada's 
 durbar Ludicrous scene Murder of a grass-cutter Dis- 
 gusting exhibition in the environs of Peshawur Visit from 
 Prince Nownihal Singh An unwelcome intruder An un- 
 locked for reply March to Takkal Excessive,heat Page 253 
 
 CHAPTER IX. 
 
 CAMP AT KOULSIR. 
 
 Vigilance in camp A dust storm An unpleasant rencontre 
 Lieutenant Mackeson's arrival March to Koulsir Separa- 
 tion of the British and Sikh camps Mutiny of the Ghoorkas 
 Their conduct A false conclusion Dreadful accident Stra- 
 
 b 
 
Xiv CONTENTS, 
 
 tagem of Sadut Khan Defeat of the levies Messieurs Mouton 
 aud Bceuf Sikh grass-cutters killed by the Khy berries Op- 
 pressive heat " Sardkhaua" F.'s narrow escape Ludicrous 
 scene Preparations for an advance Commencement of hos- 
 tilities Jumrood Matchlock practice " Sangas" Wahab 
 and his band of Khy berries Castle of Futtehgurh Our bed- 
 room there Colonel Wade's illness Great sickness amongs^ 
 the officers Ludicrous report Death of Runjeet Singh A 
 visit of condolence The Cabul river at the Khyber range 
 Desultory skirmishes An outwork thrown up Battery prac- 
 tice Unhealthy situation Mosquitoes The Shah-zada Zam- 
 boor's camp Races Serious affray at Jumrood Mackeson's 
 intrepidity A chuprassie killed Departure from Koulsir 
 Encamp at Jumrood Our allies Our foes . Page 291 
 
 CHAPTER X. 
 
 THE KHYBER PASS. 
 
 Commencement of active operations March to Kuddum The 
 troops assemble Beautiful and exciting scene Ascend the 
 pass in force Confined spot The force divides Steep as- 
 cent Fort of Ali Musjid Encampment formed Cowardice 
 of the Nujeebs INIackeson's boldness His position Desul- 
 tory fighting Dependence to be placed on raw levies Our 
 ammunition fails Boldness of the Khy berries Mackeson ar- 
 rives with reinforcements, and drives them back The deser- 
 ters discovered A comfortable position Exposed spot 
 Rattray's party fired upon The Shah-zada quits Kuddum 
 Wounded Sepoys Baggage carried off Ominous event 
 The brave Nujeebs Ascend the heights on either side Camp 
 moved to Lall-cheenie The Khyberries retreat to the sum- 
 mit of a lofty hill Farmer's position Impregnable strong- 
 hold The pass below Ali Musjid The Goorcherras Re- 
 
CONTENTS. 
 
 XV 
 
 turn to camp Evacuation of Ali Musj id Conclusion of ac- 
 tive operations Severe illness Intense heat Ferris' convoy- 
 attacked The brave Nujeebs again Khyberrie deserters 
 punished Furious storm Loss of camels Ali Musj id gar- 
 risoned by our troops March resumed Sir-i-chusma Lali- 
 beg-ghurrie Grecian tomb Pass of Lundy Khana Exe- 
 crable road Quit the Khyber Pass Order by Colonel 
 Wade ^ Page 322 
 
 CHAPTER XL 
 
 FROM DHAKA TO CABUL. 
 
 Encamp on the banks of the Cabul river Retreat of Sadut 
 Khan Lallpoora Dhaka Embark on the river The Little 
 Khyber Pass Bad road Hazarnow Unhealthy country 
 Chardeh Ali Boghan Unpleasant occurrence Ride the 
 Shah-zada's elephant The Shah-zada's kindness Jullalabad 
 Deserted streets Increasing sickness of the troops Charbagh 
 Balabagh Gundamuck Profusion of fruits Capture of brass 
 cannon Soorkab Excessive heat Jugdulluck Cruelty to 
 Shah Zeman Bareekhab The Fakeer's Rock- Superstitious 
 offerings Tezeen Delightful temperature A lofty pass 
 The Khoord Cabul pass Stragglers attacked and killed In- 
 spection of the Sikh troops The Shah-zada's procession into 
 Cabul 353 
 
 CHAPTER XII. 
 
 FROM CABUL TO FEROZEPORE. 
 
 The City of Cabul Animated scene Weak state of health 
 The '* Char-chattur" or great bazaar Hills of fruit Predo- 
 minant trades Unhealthy encamping ground Illness 
 Murder of Colonel Herring Death of Captain Fothergill and 
 of Captain Timmings Thieves in camp Review of the Sikh 
 
^y- CONTENTS. 
 
 troops The king of Cabul The City The Bala Hissar 
 Remarkable gravestone Join the Anny of the Indus Ar- 
 rival of treasure Beautiful scenery Baber's Tomb The 
 kababs of Cabul Departure for Hindoostan State prisoners 
 Order of march An accident Bootkhak Piercingcold in 
 the Khoord Cabul pass Deaths from the severity of the 
 weather The Puree-duree Pass The rear-guard attacked 
 Estimated prize-money Fort of Ali Musjid Fatal eflfects of 
 the climate in the Khyber Pass Fearful massacre The Khy- 
 berries attack Ferris' post Detention at Peshawur Misbe- 
 
 - haviour of the Sikh troops Defeat of the convoy Fatal 
 accident Diabolical cruelty Capt. Prole and Lieut. Macmul- 
 len wounded Treachery of the Khy berries Departure from 
 Peshawur Misconduct of the governor of Attock punished 
 Wah lamentable and fatal accident Hanging the baker A 
 Christmas plum-pudding Kussoor Arrival at Ferozepore 
 
 * Conclusion of the march The " Army of the Indus" ceases 
 to exist Honours awarded .... Page 3G9 
 
 LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS. 
 
 Alt Musjid Frontispiece 
 
 Aurungzebe's Mosque 97 
 
 Fort of Rhotas 161 
 
 Indus at Attock 190 
 
 Entrance to Khyber Pass 324 
 
 Grecian Tope in Khyber Pass . * . . 349 
 
CHAPTER I. 
 
 FROM DELHI TO KURNAL. 
 
 Towards the end of December, 1838, when the 
 excitement caused by the assembly and departure 
 of "the- army of the Indus" had subsided, and 
 events were once more assuming their usually 
 quiet course, I unexpectedly received an order 
 to join Colonel Wade's mission, with a detach- 
 ment of Native horse artillery, and two 24- 
 pounder howitzers, fully equipped for field ser- 
 vice. The actual march of the army for AiFghan- 
 istan had, naturally enough, suppressed any hope 
 I might previously have entertained of joining its 
 ranks ; and I seemed destined to pass another 
 season, at least, in the " inglorious ease" of a 
 cantonment life, instead of existing amidst the 
 turmoil and bustle of a camp. The command 
 that had now devolved on me opened a brighter 
 
 B 
 
2 FROM DELHI TO KURNAL. 
 
 prospect, and I looked forward - Ith intense plea- 
 sure to the time I should be traversing the rich 
 and fertile plains of the Punjab ; that oft-coveted 
 country, whose powerful but politic chief had 
 ever been wise enough to cultivate an alliance 
 with the British, and has thus obtained a position 
 that places him at the head of all the independent 
 princes. I was at Delhi when the order readied 
 me, and Colonel Wade was at Lahore (a month's 
 march in advance), having gone there during Lord 
 Auckland's visit to the " Lion of the Punjab," 
 for the pui'pose of introducing to the Maharajah, 
 Shah Shoojah's eldest son, the Shahzada Timour, 
 who was to accompany the mission to Peshawur. 
 Now, whether the mission formed a clause in the 
 tripartite treaty between the British Government, 
 Runjeet Singh, and Shah Shoojah-ool-Moolk, or 
 wKether it was happily thought of, devised, and 
 put together during the Governor-General's so- 
 journ in the capital of the " Five Waters," is 
 known onlv to the initiated ; but I believe the 
 requisition for tlie British howitzers was only 
 made to his lordship at that time, or orders for 
 their junction with Colonel Wade's force would, 
 
FROM DELHI TO KURNAL. g 
 
 no doubt, have been issued earlier. As it was, 
 before the ordnance could be supplied by the 
 Delhi magazine, Colonel W. had left Lahore 
 and advanced some distance on his way to Now- 
 rungabad, a town on the banks of the Jhelum, 
 some 350 miles beyond the Mogul capital, where 
 he proposed spending a short time in furthering 
 the objects of the mission, and where I hoped he 
 would remain until I should be able to join 
 him. 
 
 On the 18th January, 1839, all was reported 
 to be in readiness, and I was directed to com- 
 mence ray march on the 19th; but, in consequence 
 of the very heavy rain that fell the previous day, 
 it was necessary to postpone it to the following 
 morning, ^s the tents and camp equipage were so 
 saturated with water as to be too heavy for the 
 camels to carry. This was vexatious, as already 
 much time had been lost in replacing one of the 
 howitzers, pronounced by a committee to be un- 
 serviceable; but the 20th, though a hazy day, 
 was sufficiently fair to admit of a move, so I 
 struck camp a little before dawn, and marched to 
 Allepore, a miserable village, about ten miles from 
 
 b2 
 
4 FROM DELHI TO KURNAL. 
 
 Delhi. On the road we passed numberless ruins, 
 which bore testimony to the grandeur and extent 
 of the once magnificent capital of Hindostan ; and 
 a dilapidated serai, about three miles from the 
 city, pointed out the commencement of a series 
 of such buildings, erected at various times and by 
 different Mogul emperors, for the use of travellers 
 from this to Cabul, which was for many centuries 
 included in their extensive domains. 
 
 At noon, as the sun was breaking through the 
 mist, a large treasure-party arrived, under the 
 command of Captain C, of the 54th N. 1., who is 
 convoying some 20,000 or 30,000 rupees to Lodia- 
 nah. He pitched his camp a short distance from 
 mine, and after unpacking his treasure, a count- 
 less multitude of camels, upon which it had been 
 carried, were taken away to browse. The after- 
 noon was fine, the mist having entirely cleared 
 away, but there was nothing in the surrounding 
 country of sufficient interest to induce me to 
 take a ramble ; so, after seeing to the duties and 
 protection of my camp, I adjourned to my tent, 
 and ruminated on the gratification I expected to 
 derive from traversing localities so little known 
 
FROM DELHI TO KURNAL. 5 
 
 to Europeans, and so celebrated as the scenes of 
 Alexander's conquests. 
 
 January 21. On proceeding to parade at half- 
 past three, a. m., I found a snnilar mist to that 
 of yesterday had usurped the clearness of the sky, 
 and the fires which the syces (grooms) had kin- 
 dled, to see how to put on the harness, as well 
 as for the purpose of warmth, only served to make 
 darkness more visible. The confusion, too, that 
 it occasioned was manifested by the bawling of 
 men, the peculiar and painful grumbling of cam- 
 els having their loads strapped on, and the neigh- 
 ing of horses, who, coming together in the dark, 
 set to and fought with vicious fury ; whilst here 
 and there a steed that had broken from its picket 
 was galloping about, and adding not a little to 
 the uproar. About two miles from Allepore we 
 were obliged to quit the high-road, in consequence 
 of the late rains having swept away the bridge 
 over Ali Murdan's canal, and there being no ford 
 near the spot, we had to make a considerable 
 detour ere we came to one. The aspect of this was 
 by no means satisfactory, the water being above 
 three feet deep, with a steep bank, and awkward 
 
(5 FROM DELHI TO KURNAL. 
 
 turning on the opposite side : however, we dashed 
 through it, surmounted the ascent, and beyond 
 a semi-ducking, got over without any accident. 
 We halted at Barotah, a small village, which has 
 nothing to recommend it but a good encamping 
 ground, and so poor that we had to send to a town 
 several miles distant for our supplies. 
 
 January 22. A beautifullybright and clear sky, 
 in which the starry constellations were displayed 
 with unusual brilliancy, enabled us at the com- 
 mencement of our morning's march, to pick our 
 way with some feeling of security ; and fortunately 
 it happened thus, for in many places the water was 
 so deep, and the road so heavy, as to render it 
 necessary to deviate considerably from the high- 
 way. At sunrise we reached Soneput, which 
 appears to have been at one time a town of some 
 consideration, as its ruins are very extensive, and 
 are still enclosed by a high brick wall, which in 
 former days served to defend it. It is built on a 
 lofty mound, which shows it to advantage ; and a 
 few temples situated in gardens, or embedded in 
 groves of trees in its environs, contribute not a 
 little to its pretty appearance. A good deal of 
 
FROM DELHI TO KURNAL. 
 
 trade still passes through it, and at no great 
 distance there is a ferry on the Jumna, whence 
 roads branch off to the Doab and Rohilcund, 
 where the merchandize is disposed of. 
 
 In the year 1036, it was deemed of sufficient 
 importance to cause Musaood of Ghuzni to march 
 against it, when he invaded Hindoostan. This 
 emperor was so celebrated for his strength and 
 prowess, that he obtained the appellation of Roos- 
 tum (Hercules) the Second ; and it is averred he 
 drew a bow with such might that an arrow from it 
 would pierce through the strongest coat of mail, 
 or the hide of an elephant, and that his battle-axe, 
 like Richard Coeur de Lion's, was so ponderous 
 and massive, that, beside himself, no individual 
 could raise it single-handed. Deipal, who was 
 governor of Soneput at this period, did not think 
 proper to await Musaood's arrival, but fled into 
 the woods in such haste that he had no time to 
 carry off his treasure, which, consequently, fell 
 into the victor's hands, and who, on entering the 
 town, gave orders to raze to the ground every 
 temple, and to demolish every idol that should 
 be found within its walls. Having done this he 
 
g FROM DELHI TO KURNAL. 
 
 marched in pursuit of the governor, who had in 
 the meantime collected his followers, with a reso- 
 lution to try his fate in battle: but he was surprised 
 by Musaood before he could well assume the de- 
 fensive his army surrounded and taken prisoners, 
 and he himself, with the greatest difficulty, escaped 
 in the habit of a slave. Musaood on his return to 
 Ghuzni left a confidential officer in ^command of 
 the fortress. 
 
 At the eleventh mile we came to Runjaree Burke 
 Chowkie, where troops occasionally halt, but there 
 is no village near to it, and the spot is only known 
 by the existence of a chowkie, or guard-house, 
 built close to a banyan tree of great dimensions, 
 and covering a large extent of ground. Numerous 
 blue pigeons obtain shelter under its branches, 
 and the country around being clothed with 
 jungle, game of every description is abundant. 
 The approach to Gunnour, where we halted, is 
 extremely picturesque ; a few huts on a rising 
 ground, overhung by some large and drooping 
 trees, bounding one side of the prospect, the other 
 being formed by a large and handsome caravan- 
 serai with its embattled wall and towers reflected 
 
FROM DELHI TO KURNAL. 9 
 
 on the surface of a beautifully clear tank. About 
 500 yards beyond the village we pitched our 
 tents, and not far from a small pond at which 
 the horses were watered. 
 
 The next morning we marched to Sumalka, a 
 village of some size, and possessing the remains of 
 a jfine and extensive serai. This, however, is fast 
 going to decay, but a small outlay on the part of 
 Government would preserve it for some years, and 
 at the same time show the natives (who almost ex- 
 clusively use these buildings) that their comfort 
 and welfare are not always set aside or forgotten 
 by those who rule over them. 
 
 January 24. At half-past four a.m., we com- 
 menced our march, and after (at the third mile) 
 passing a small collection of huts, thence, till 
 within a short distance of Paniput, nothing was 
 to be seen on either side of the wood, but an 
 uninterrupted jungle. A magnificent view of the 
 snowy Himalayahs before sunrise, in some mea- 
 sure compensated for the loss of the beauties 
 of nature nearer to us : but the glimpse was 
 only transient, as a few minutes after the sun 
 appeared the prospect became fainter and fainter, 
 
 b3 
 
V ^* 
 
 IQ FROM DELHI TO KURNAL. 
 
 until at length the haze obscured it entirely. As 
 we approached Paniput the whole of the sur- 
 rounding country was converted into one mass of 
 cultivation, here and there broken by small clumps 
 of trees, through which are to be seen the spires 
 and cupolas of numerous temples, with their 
 white and polished surfaces, starting from the 
 dark foliage in which they are embedded with an 
 almost dazzling brilliancy. 
 
 The town is built on a slight eminence some 
 miles in circuit, most of the houses being con- 
 structed of brick, and a few raised to the height 
 of two stories with balconies and ornamented 
 cupolas to the windows. One or two large ca- 
 ravanserais in tolerably good repair are at either 
 side of the city, which is still considered of such 
 importance as to require that a magistrate should 
 reside here. In its environs are numerous tombs 
 of considerable size, but very dilapidated, which 
 point out where the ashes of the nobles in days 
 by-gone have been deposited, as well as where 
 the slain of numerous battles have found a resting- 
 place from all their worldly troubles ; for Pani- 
 put, from its proximity to Delhi, has been the 
 
FROM DELHI TO KURNAL. l\ 
 
 scene of many a deadly contest, and beneath its 
 walls the fate of the capital of Hindoos tan has, 
 even to later years, generally been decided. 
 
 It was here that the famous Baber, a descen- 
 dant of the equally celebrated Timour, gained, 
 in 1525, a complete victory over Ibrahim II., by 
 which the latter lost his life and kingdom. The 
 Imperial army under Ibrahim is said to have con- 
 sisted of 100,000 horse and 1,000 elephants ; that 
 of Baber 's, of only 13,000 men. The bold Tar- 
 tar, however, was not disconcerted at the vast 
 numbers opposed to him ; but trusting to the 
 hardy valour of his followers, whom he had so 
 often led to victory, he awaited the battle with 
 composure and confidence ; first taking the pre- 
 caution to link his artillery together to prevent 
 his antagonist's cavalry separating his guns, and 
 then dividing his army into two lines and a re- 
 serve, the whole of which he commanded in person. 
 Ibrahim, ignorant of the art of war, drew up his 
 forces in one irregular column, and ordered them 
 at once to charge the Moguls, thinking that he 
 would bear down all opposition by his numbers. 
 But vain was the hope ! for Baber, perceiving his 
 
\0 FROM DELHI TO KURNAL. 
 
 folly, ordered the reserve to wheel round in two 
 bodies and attack the enemy on either flank, which 
 was done in such gallant style that the Patans 
 were forced to retire. Ibrahim, though unskilled 
 in military tactics, was not deficient in courage ; 
 and having observed the ill success of his previous 
 manoeuvre, boldly advanced in person, surrounded 
 by the flower of his nobility, and so desperate 
 was the charge, that the Moguls recoiled from it ; 
 but recovering themselves and fighting with des- 
 peration, they slew the Emperor and 5,000 of his 
 followers. The fall of Ibrahim decided the for- 
 tune of the day. His army, or rather the rem- 
 nants of it, took to flight, and were hotly pursued 
 by Baber as far as the river Jumna; and it is 
 computed by the most moderate historians that 
 no less than 16,000 Patans fell in this action, 
 which transferred the empire of India from the 
 Afifghan tribe of Lodi to the house of Timour. 
 
 Numerous other actions of consequence occurred 
 here after this, but the last battle of Paniput 
 was fought in 1 760, between the Afighans under 
 Ahmed Abdalla, the founder of the Dourranie 
 empire, and the Mahrattas, commanded bv Sew- 
 
FROM DELHI TO KURNAL.' 13 
 
 dasheo Rao, the Bhow. The sceptre of Hindoos- 
 tan was at this time feebly swayed by Ali Gohur, 
 eldest son of Alumgire II., and the throne of 
 the Mogul was the prize that would be awarded 
 to the victor. The Mahrattas having been in 
 two previous engagements thoroughly worsted by 
 their adversaries, were in no hurry to come to an 
 open combat, although they exceeded their ene- 
 mies three times in number ; they therefore formed 
 an entrenched camp at Paniput, and awaited the 
 onset of the Affghans, who for some days merely 
 hovered around their position and cut off their 
 supplies. Abdallah, at last, weary of such dilatory 
 work, made a resolute assault upon their defences, 
 but after fighting valiantly for some time, was 
 forced to retire without gaining any important 
 advantage. This encouraged the Mahrattas, who, 
 being still despoiled of their supplies, resolved 
 once more to try their fate in an open field of 
 battle ; Abdallah but wanted this. He immedi- 
 ately drew up his forces, and waited with a stern 
 tranquillity the impetuous attack of his foes, who, 
 in their usual manner, advanced with great rapi- 
 dity, shouting their terrific war-cry and blackening 
 
14 FROM DELHI TO KURNAL. 
 
 tlie plain with their multitudes. When they came 
 within a short distance of his line, Abdallah gave 
 orders for the cavalry to charge, which they did 
 so effectually that the light horse of his antagonist 
 were forced off the field, and a general rout 
 immediately ensued. 23,000 prisoners, 56,000 
 horses, and an immense booty were taken by the 
 victorious Affghans, and Abdallah advanced to and 
 entered Delhi ; but nobly contenting himself with 
 his acknowledged superiority, he left Ali Gohur in 
 possession of his kingdom, and returned to Cabul. 
 We left Paniput on the 2oth, and soon found 
 that the rich cultivation only extended its influ- 
 ence in the immediate neighbourhood of the city ; 
 for as we advanced, jungle claimed the tracts on 
 either side of the road for its own. We reached 
 Garondah at eight o'clock, where our camp was 
 pitched in a very pretty grove of date-trees 
 and not far from the village, which though 
 merely a collection of mud huts, can boast of 
 possessing in its environs an extremely hand- 
 some caravanserai. A lofty gateway, flanked on 
 either side by very peculiarly constructed towers 
 surmounted with cupolas, points out its entrance. 
 
FROM DELHI TO KURNAL. 25 
 
 its area being enclosed by a high embattled wall 
 with bastions at its angles. The whole, though 
 built of a reddish freestone, is considerably di- 
 lapidated, but the bastions more so than any other 
 part, and their remains testify that in former days 
 they had been adorned with open circular galleries 
 covered in by domes. A high mound stretches 
 out in front of the caravanserai, from whence a 
 good view of the country is to be had ; but beyond 
 a few clumps of trees, interspersed amongst the 
 dense jungle, there is nothing to break the mo- 
 notony of the scene. 
 
 26th January, We reached Kurnal this morn- 
 ing after a march of about twelve miles over a 
 very excellent road, though it became swampy as 
 we neared the city. At the eighth mile we crossed 
 Feroze Shah's Canal by a good bridge overhung 
 by a few handsome peepul trees. The glimpse I 
 got of the town of Kurnal as we wound beneath 
 its walls rather disappointed me ; for, except one 
 handsome mosque, I did not see another building 
 to attract my curiosity ; nor do the cantonments 
 appear much more prepossessing, as the bungalows 
 are inferior to those at many other stations, and 
 
IQ FROM DELHI TO KURNAL. 
 
 the compounds are bare, and in most instances 
 guiltless of having anything approaching to the 
 semblance of a flower-garden. Our camp was 
 pitched on the parade-ground in front of the foot 
 artillery quarters, which are excellent and not 
 far from the church, which is almost opposite to 
 them. The cantonments are of considerable ex- 
 tent, having barracks for the horse artillery on 
 the left flank, and others for a Queen's regiment 
 on the right. At present, however, the number 
 of troops in the station is far short of its full 
 complement, as the whole of the artillery, both 
 horse and foot, one regiment of cavalry, and one 
 of infantry, have either joined " the army of the 
 Indus," or are on duty with the Governor- General, 
 who is now returning by the way of Khytul from 
 his interview with Runjeet Singh. Colonel Shel- 
 ton, who arrived three days ago with the 44th, 
 at present commands. 
 
 Kurnal, though an ancient city, cannot boast 
 of much celebrity, except as being the spot where 
 the cruel Nadir Shah gained a victory over the 
 Moguls in 1739, chiefly through the instrumen- 
 tality of traitors in the camp of the dissolute 
 
FROM DELHI TO KURNAL. 17 
 
 Emperor Mahomed, as the army of the latter 
 under the orders of the brave Dowran, was gain- 
 ing the day when that general was obliged to 
 withdraw from the field on receiving a wound 
 which soon after proved mortal. The command 
 then devolved on his brother Mozuffir, who at- 
 tended by a train of valiant nobles, charged 
 through the Persians so gallantly that they pene- 
 trated even to the very tent of Nadir Shah. Here, 
 however, for want of being supported, they were 
 cut to pieces ; twenty-seven officers of distinction 
 falling on that small spot, and 10,000 of the common 
 soldiers being slain on the field of battle. This 
 event gave Nadir Shah the possession of Delhi, 
 where he soon after issued orders for that fearful 
 massacre, in which no less than '100,000 persons 
 of all ages, sexes, and conditions, were unmerci- 
 fully butchered. 
 
 During the two days we remained at Kurnal, 
 the weather was extremely fine, and the atmo- 
 sphere so very clear that the snowy and lower 
 ranges of the Himalayah were visible from dawn 
 of day to nightfall. The view of these majestic 
 mountains from our encampment was superb ; the 
 
13 FROM DELHI TO KURNAL. 
 
 mighty peaks of Gungootri and Jumnootri, which 
 I had visited with such intense pleasure in 1835, 
 forming the most conspicuous part of the pro- 
 spect, and deserving from their very lofty appear- 
 ance to be the sources of such magnificent rivers 
 as the Ganges and Jumna. 
 
CHAPTER II. 
 
 FROM KURNAL TO LODIANAH. 
 
 We struck camp on the 28th a little before sun- 
 rise, and, even with a guide, had at that early- 
 hour some difficulty in gaining the Lodianah road, 
 which was at first but very indistinctly defined from 
 the surrounding open country ; it was afterwards 
 better marked out, and on passing the village of 
 Azimgurh was raised some feet above the neigh- 
 bouring plain, which in the rainy season must 
 be a perfect lake. Azimgurh is enclosed by a 
 high brick wall, pierced with loopholes for mus- 
 ketry, with a tower bastion here and there to 
 add to its security ; and opposite to the principal 
 gateway is a large tank with a flight of steps lead- 
 ing to its then unruffled waters, which received on 
 their glassy surface the reflections of the village 
 and surrounding scenery. At its northern ex- 
 
20 FROM KURNAL TO LODIANAH. 
 
 tremity is a large and fortified caravanserai, with 
 four handsome turrets at the angles of its lofty 
 embattled wall, and defended by a deep ditch 
 which encircled it, though at present only partially 
 filled with water. We reached Leelokeerie, which 
 is about eleven miles from Kurnal, at half-past 
 seven, and pitched our camp just beyond the extre- 
 mity of the village, which is small and protected by 
 a mud wall. Two or three lofty buildings stand 
 in the centre of it, and are evidently intended as 
 watch-tow^ers whence a good look-out may be 
 kept. 
 
 In the afternoon, I strolled to a village situ- 
 ated on an eminence about a mile and a half dis- 
 tant, as I expected I should have from it a good 
 view of th6 surrounding country ; nor was I disap- 
 pointed, though little was to be seen but the Dhak 
 jungle, except where here and there a few patches 
 of bright green verdure adjacent to a village pointed 
 out the cultivated spots and relieved the prospect. 
 Circular towers, similar to those at Leelokeerie, 
 constructed either of brick or mud, overlooked the 
 neighbouring district and stood in the midst of 
 every collection of huts, which as far as I could 
 
FROM KURNAL TO LODIANAH. gj 
 
 observe was invariably enclosed by a mud wall ; 
 thereby plainly indicating that the protected Sikh 
 states, which we had entered this morning, are or 
 have been at no distant period subjected to the 
 nightly prowlings of predatory marauders. Cap- 
 tain C.'s treasure party, with an addition of half 
 a troop of cavalry to its escort, is again encamped 
 alongside. 
 
 29^A. As there was a considerable march before 
 us this morning, we were early in our saddles, 
 and fortunately had an excellent road, over which 
 the guns rolled without much exertion to the 
 horses. It continued to be raised above the ad- 
 jacent lands, in some parts higher than in others, 
 and a deep ditch on either side served to drain 
 off the water. .The country around was still a 
 repetition of the same Dhak jungle and long- 
 grass until we approached Thanesur, where it was 
 lost amidst rich cultivation and extensive groves 
 of mango trees. In one of the latter, on the 
 opposite side of the town, our camp found a re- 
 freshing shelter from the rays of the noon-day 
 sun. 
 
 As we passed through the city, the road led 
 
OO FROM KURNAL TO LODIANAK. 
 
 US immediately beneath the walls of a curious 
 and antiquated fort, with numerous lofty towers, 
 both circular and square, almost close to each 
 other, and which, from their irregular appear- 
 ance, imparted a wildness to the building that 
 carried us back to the ages of barbarity. Tha- 
 nesur, however, has the reputation of being not 
 only one of the most ancient cities in Hindoostan, 
 but also one of the most holy ; and it was its far- 
 famed sanctity that, in the year 1011, brouglit 
 down upon it the vengeance of the mighty Mah- 
 mood, who, it is asserted, delighted more in the 
 name of the " Destroyer of Idols," than in all 
 the numerous victories he gained. When the 
 Hindoos heard that this great conqueror was on 
 his way from Ghuzni with the avowed purpose 
 of despoiling their temples, they were seized with 
 consternation, and immediately sent deputies to 
 assure him that he should be paid the annual 
 revenues of the city if he would but spare their 
 images. Nothing, however, could deter Mahmood 
 from his purpose, and the only reply he deigned 
 to give to the ambassadors was that, wath the 
 help of God, he was determined to root out of 
 
FROM KURNAL TO LODIANAH. gg 
 
 India the abominable worship of idols. On hear- 
 ing this the whole country, from Delhi to Lahore, 
 rose up in arms ; but Mahmood was too quick 
 for them, and before they could collect in suffi- 
 cient numbers to oppose his progress, he had 
 entered Thanesur, plundered it, and demolished 
 all the idols, with the exception of Jugsoom, the 
 largest and most holy, which he sent to Ghuzni, 
 where, after stripping it of all the ornaments, he 
 ordered the head to be cut off, and the body to 
 be cast on the highway. 
 
 Independent of the interest excited by the 
 antiquity of the place, Thanesur can boast of pos- 
 sessing prettier spots in its vicinity than are 
 usually to be met with in this part of the pro- 
 vinces. One of the most beautiful is a large 
 tank, crossed at its extremity by a dilapidated 
 bridge, having on one side a small green island, 
 covered with trees, whose autumnal tints were 
 reflected on the water ; and on the other an ele- 
 gantly shaped temple, dedicated to Mahadeo, 
 where, at the time I visited it, several devotees 
 were performing their religious rites. Close to 
 our encampment, too, was an old Mussulman 
 
24 FROM KURNAL TO LODIANAH. 
 
 tomb in ruins, surrounded by a few palm-trees, 
 whose tops were upreared high above the dark 
 foliage of the mango grove in which it was 
 embedded : whilst remains of fallen shafts and 
 columns were strewed around, and betokened that, 
 at one time, it was deficient neither in beauty 
 nor elegance. 
 
 SOth. Soon after quitting Thanesur, we forded 
 the river Sarsutty, now merely a small stream, 
 but which, in the rainy season, swells to an im- 
 passable torrent that subsides as rapidly as it 
 'rises. Pursuing our course along a tolerably 
 good road, in an hour we reached rather a 
 deep nullah called the Choorah, which we crossed, 
 and from thence quietly pursued our way for 
 some miles, until we fell in with a couple of 
 ragged Mussulmans, driving a low platform cart, 
 to which was harnessed a regular Rozinante. 
 Being a little in advance of my detachment, and 
 perceiving their horse was inclined to be rest- 
 ive, I cautioned them to keep out of our way, 
 but, instead of attending to my advice, or, not 
 being able to guide the animal, they all at once 
 took up a position in the very centre of the road. 
 
FROM KURNAL TO LODIANAH. 25 
 
 The guns by this time had come up, and the 
 troop-horses no sooner saw a strange face, than 
 they set up a tremendous snorting and neighing, 
 which, added to the clanking of the chains on the 
 harness, so dumb-foundered the spare steed, that 
 he in his bewilderment dashed against our 
 leaders, who, nothing loth, immediately prepared 
 for action, and launched out at him most unmer- 
 cifully with their heels. Rozinante, not approv- 
 ing of this warm reception, reared up, whirled 
 round, tilted out one of his fare, and then scam- 
 pered off as fast as his terror allowed him. The 
 other, who kept his seat uncommonly well, 
 after a short time succeeded in pulling up his 
 racer, and just in time too, for one more step 
 would have immersed them both in the ditch. 
 At this moment, the individual who was cap- 
 sized, having been rather more frightened than 
 hurt, jumped up and joined his friend with all 
 the alacrity he was master of, and they both, 
 on the guns again approaching, had the precau- 
 tion to lay hold of their nag's bit until we were 
 safely out of reach. Not long after this adven- 
 ture, we met a double-bodied ruth (car) covered 
 
 c 
 
OQ FROM KURNAL TO LODIANAH. 
 
 with bright scarlet cloth, and drawn by a pair of 
 horses, handsomely harnessed in the Hindustani 
 manner. It was preceded by a couple of armed 
 outriders, fancifully accoutred, and the turn-out 
 evidently formed the equipage of a wealthy native. 
 As the curtains had loopholes, and were closely 
 drawn, it was apparent the conveyance was occu- 
 pied by females, and being unwilling another 
 scene should occur, similar to that I have just 
 related, I directed them to draw up on one side 
 of the road, till we had passed by : which they 
 did, though with no very good grace, as the out- 
 riders seemed to think it was an act unbecoming 
 their dignity. A mile from this we w'ound round 
 the city of Shahabad, which is large, and pos- 
 sesses some good houses. Amongst the most 
 prominent are the residences of four rajahs, whose 
 domains overlook the whole of the town, and are 
 so polished with chunam, that from a distance 
 they glittered like marble. Our march was one 
 of fifteen miles, and the country, as we passed 
 along, showed more cultivation than we had seen 
 for many a day ; but, notwithstanding, the vil- 
 lages have greatly increased in number. Much 
 
FROM KURNAL TO LODIANAH. g^ 
 
 of the Dhak jungle and long grass still exists, and 
 affords shelter for game of every description. 
 At one spot, where it was rather denser than 
 usual, we disturbed a couple of antelopes, who 
 dashed out of their cover, bounded aloft, and 
 apparently happy in their liberty, were soon lost 
 to sight. Our camp was pitched close to the 
 river Morkunda, now a small and silently flowing 
 stream. 
 
 January S\st. At half-past four we left Sha- 
 habad, this morning, but had scarcely proceeded 
 a niile when rain fell ; gradually increasing in 
 heaviness until we reached the town of Amballa, 
 sixteen miles distant, and then, down it poured 
 in torrents. Fortunately,' our march was over a 
 very excellent road, along which cultivation ex- 
 tended its cheerful aspect on either side, with 
 scarcely an exception. A young plantation of 
 trees, many being covered with straw to protect 
 them from the frost, lined the approach for two 
 or three miles before we reached the city, and 
 close to the gate by which we entered it, is a 
 large pucka tank, in excellent repair, having a 
 flight of ornamental steps leading to the clear and 
 
 c 2 
 
28 FROM KURNAL TO LODIANAH. 
 
 translucent water with which it is filled. The 
 bazaar is some miles in extent, and composed of 
 two streets at right angles with one another ; most 
 of the houses in it being of late construction, and 
 their uniformity, except where a few of the richer 
 Baboos have increased their residences to the 
 height of two stories, is considerable for a native 
 town. These latter are plastered with the finest 
 chunani, and decorated with paintings of various 
 devices, in much better taste than is usually dis- 
 played on such occasions ; and in front of almost 
 every shop are richly-carved wooden verandahs, 
 with fretted arches beneath which the merchants 
 can display their wares, without being exposed to 
 the influence of the sun, or the vicissitudes of the 
 rainy season. 
 
 A mud wall and parapet, in excellent repair, 
 surrounds the city, through which we passed, and 
 found our encamping ground marked out beneath 
 a grove of mango trees, close to the western gate- 
 way. Not a tent, however, of any description, 
 had arrived, and I had to wait a considerable time 
 in this anything but comfortable plight, before 
 my advanced marquee, well soaked, the camels 
 
FROM KURNAL TO LODIANAH. 29 
 
 weary and drooping under its weight, slowly 
 appeared in sight, and was, after some delay, 
 unpacked, and eventually pitched. Cheerless and 
 uncomfortable, however, was the prospect its 
 interior afforded, for, the ground being low, a 
 pool of water occupied each of its corners, in spite 
 of all the baling that had taken place. It was, 
 nevertheless, some degrees better than the shelter 
 of a dripping tree, under which I had been stand- 
 ing for two or three hours, perusing, as well as 
 the large drops of rain would allow me, various 
 letters I had received, one of the number being 
 an official from Colonel Wade, informing me of 
 his having left Lahore on the 13th instant, and 
 enclosing a route of ten marches from Lodianah 
 to that place, which he wishes me to take. At 
 twelve o'clock the treasure party, looking as 
 miserable as half-drowned fowls, reached their 
 encampment, having been eight hours accomplish- 
 ing this march. Their tents and baggage had 
 arrived before them ; but the greater portion of 
 the latter was so well drenched, that on going 
 over to see the officers in the evening, after the 
 rain had been blown over by a strong wind, I 
 
3Q FROM KURNAL TO LODIANAH. 
 
 found an unfortunate ensign strutting up and 
 down with his nether man encased in a table clothi 
 for want of a drier article to put on, and their 
 canvass abodes, inside and out, covered with coun- 
 terpanes, sheets, and dresses, hung up to catch the 
 last ray of a watery -looking sunset. 
 
 February \sty 1840. 1 had not long betaken 
 myself to rest last night, w^hen I was disturbed by 
 an animal of some kind or another sniffing at 
 my face ; and on opening my eyes, I descried, 
 by the light of a small lamp, a huge Pariah dog 
 staring at me with the most perfect nonchalance. 
 A boot being the nearest missile at hand, was forth- 
 with hurled at the offender's head, and it had the 
 effect of driving him out of the tent, at least for a 
 time ; but I had no sooner composed myself to 
 sleep, than in he came again, and awoke me by his 
 exertions to get at some meat which was stowed 
 away at the bottom of a kajour. The other 
 boot having quickly followed the course of its 
 predecessor, out bolted the dog once more; and 
 being now in hopes that my tormentor had 
 taken his departure for good, I was soon in the 
 arms of Morpheus. Next morning, however, my 
 
FROM KURNAL TO LODIANAH. 3 J 
 
 khidmatgar (table attendant) came in with a long 
 face to report that a round of salted beef (which 
 I had always regarded as a stand-by in case 
 of provisions falling short) had disappeared, but in 
 what manner he did not know, as he had care- 
 fully put it away the previous evening, and to 
 ensure its safety, had placed my writing-desk 
 and other heavy materials above the package in 
 which it was kept. I was now aware that my 
 friend of the canine species must have paid me 
 another visit; but how he could have removed 
 such ponderous articles, as well as have carried 
 off the beef, which must itself have weighed some 
 fourteen or fifteen pounds, is a mystery to me : 
 but I have considered Pariah dogs capable of 
 perpetrating any theft ever since I caught one 
 in the act of running off with my milk-jug, 
 while marching between Cawnpore and Agra, in 
 183^. My neighbours in the treasure escort had 
 been still severer sufferers ; for Captain C. had 
 been despoiled of a ham and a leg of mutton, 
 and Lieutenant S. of half a dozen loaves of 
 bread, and there is no doubt but the robbers all 
 belonged to one tribe. 
 
3^ FROM KURNAL TO LODIANAH. 
 
 The troopers' hackeries (carts) did not arrive 
 till ten last night; and as their culinary utensils 
 and drinking vessels were packed on them, they 
 were obliged to go without any food, except a 
 little ** cherbeena," or parched grain, with which 
 they managed to stay the cravings of their appe- 
 tites. I was therefore necessitated to defer my 
 march till one in the afternoon, that they might 
 cook something of a meal ; and whilst they were 
 busy at this operation, I walked to tlic gates of 
 the town, where crowds of people were passing 
 to and fro. The traffic at Amballa must be con- 
 siderable, as most of the in- goers and out-comers 
 I observed were mahajuns (cloth-merchants), and 
 buneas (dealers in grain), the gi-eater number 
 being on foot, though a few of the richer and 
 better dressed indulged in the expense of a half- 
 fed tattoo, whose strength was scarcely equal to 
 carry the fat load under which it laboured. As 
 1 was amusing myself scanning the features of 
 the various individuals who came across my 
 observation, two handsome Hindustani Ruths, 
 with the purdahs closely drawn, entered the city. 
 They were preceded by a couple of horsemen 
 
PROM KURNAL TO LODIANAH. ^^5 
 
 gaily caparisoned, and armed with matchlocks, 
 and followed by a large sawarrie similarly ac- 
 coutred, and who, with their prancing horses 
 and glittering weapons, formed a very imposing 
 cortege. I could not ascertain to whom they 
 belonged, but most probably to the Patialah Rajah, 
 whose capital is situated fifteen miles to the 
 south-west. 
 
 The troopers having at length dispatched their 
 meal, the ** mount" was sounded, and we pro- 
 ceeded on our march to Rajpoora. Nothing could 
 be more beautiful than the day : the sun shone 
 brilliantly, the atmosphere was perfectly clear, 
 and the late heavy rain having washed the dust 
 off the trees, imparted a freshness to their leaves 
 which was truly delightful. As soon as we left 
 the environs of Amballa behind us, a lovely view 
 of the lowest range of the Himalayahs burst upon 
 our sight, and appeared as near as the Mussoorie 
 hills do from Deyrah. About the third mile 
 
 we forded the river Cuggur, now considerably 
 swollen, and of some breadth; but we crossed it 
 without any accident, and shortly afterwards 
 passed, on our right, in the distance, a very pic- 
 
 cS 
 
34 FROM KURNAL TO LODIANAH. 
 
 turesque ruin situated on a slight eminence, and 
 not unlike a dilapidated English castle. A small 
 bridge surrounded by trees was close to it, and the 
 prospect being backed by the magnificent moun- 
 tains, formed a scene which will not be easily 
 effaced from my memory. 
 
 At Rajpoora we encamped in a pretty spot, 
 close to a large pond fringed with peepul and other 
 trees. The town is surrounded by a lofty brick 
 wall, with only one entrance ; and opposite 
 to this, and at a short distance off, is a very 
 fine and extensive caravanserai, ornamented with 
 numerous turrets and bastions, and having in 
 front of its gateway a circular brick tower, which 
 seems to block up all entrance, whilst its uncouth 
 and heavy appearance contrasts strangely with the 
 light and elegant architecture of the Serai. Soon 
 after the duties of my camp were concluded, the 
 tahseeldar, or head man of the village, came to 
 pay his respects, attended by a large posse of 
 people armed with spears and matchlocks ; and 
 so considerable was his train, that, together with 
 the stately manner in which he advanced, I was 
 led to suppose he was a man of considerable con- 
 
FROM KURNAL TO LODIANAH. 35 
 
 sequence, if not a rajah. However, I was soon 
 set to rights on this head, and received him ac- 
 cording to his station. He was a well-dressed, 
 stout little man, with very handsome features, 
 and extremely polite and civil ; but his language 
 was at first so intermixed with Persian that I 
 had some difficulty in understanding him : this, 
 however, he no sooner perceived than he brought 
 his conversation into Hindustani. Amongst his 
 followers was a Sikh in Runjeet Singh's service, 
 a fine-looking man, with an aquiline nose, a large 
 and flowing black beard, and moustaches, who told 
 me he had just returned from Lahore, where he had 
 been to join the Maharajah's grand camp, formed 
 to receive the Governor-General ; that he is an 
 officer with sixty-seven horsemen under him, and 
 that he is allowed two rupees per diem for his 
 pay and subsistence. He was in the action at 
 Jumrood, near the entrance to the Khyber Pass, 
 in which Hurri Singh, one of Runjeet's chief 
 omrahs, lost his life a few years ago; and he 
 there received a desperate sabre cut on the 
 head, for which he obtained a large present. 
 " The Maharajah," he added, *' is extremely 
 
36 FROM KURN'AL TO LODIANAH. 
 
 liberal to those who are wounded in his service ; 
 and if he hears of a sirdar failing to reward such, 
 he immediately disgraces him." As he had been 
 to Peshawur, I ascertained from him that it is 
 250 koss, or a month's march, from Lahore ; but 
 he could give me no information about Colonel 
 Wade's movement. 
 
 February 2d, We had a short and uninteresting 
 march of eight miles and a half to Putarsie, where 
 our camp was pitched on a slight eminence, and 
 whence there was a pretty view of the coun- 
 try, which seemed to be covered with extensive 
 jungle, broken here and there into patches of 
 cultivation, and groves of large trees. In the 
 afternoon a dapper little self-conceited Sikh, with 
 a happy good-humoured countenance, came up to 
 me as I was inspecting my stables, and made a low 
 salaam. He ^^ as dressed in a bright Madras chintz, 
 closely fitted to the body, with a crimson and 
 yellow silk sword-belt slung across his right shoul- 
 der : and in place of a turban a loose piece of 
 crimson silk was tastefully disposed on his head, 
 and so managed that a portion of it hung down his 
 back, and fluttered in the breeze. He introduced 
 
FROM KURNAL TO LODIANAH. 37 
 
 himself by telling me he was a servant of the 
 Patialah Rajah, and owner of a village two miles 
 distant, adding, he hoped he might be permitted to 
 look at the troop horses, whose size and strength 
 he appeared much struck with, remarking "^ 
 few such might be picked out of the 4,000 sowars 
 in his Prince's service, but certainly not many." 
 After some conversation on different subjects he 
 took his leave ; and in spite of his being so very 
 well satisfied with himself and his appearance, I 
 must do him the justice to say, he was a civil and 
 merry little fellow, and did no harm with it all. 
 Towards evening four of the rajah's sepoys came 
 to take part of the night duties of the camp, being 
 stationed here by his orders for the express pur- 
 pose of forming a guard to the sahib-log (Eu- 
 ropean gentlemen) when they travel this way. 
 
 February 3d. We moved this morning to Sir- 
 hind, about nine miles distant : the road after leav- 
 ing Putarsie being a perfect swamp lined on either 
 side by a belt of thick jungle, only broken in one 
 place by an inconsiderable village of the meanest 
 order, and this continued until we approached our 
 encampment, when fields of cultivation usurped its 
 
33 FROM KURNAL TO LODIANAH. 
 
 place. We entered the town by a large bridge 
 which spanned an extensive jheel, and as there 
 were some fine trees, and a few ruined tombs and 
 temples scattered around in its neighbourhood, the 
 scene altogether was extremely picturesque. We 
 found our tents pitched in an open area, surround- 
 ed by small plantations of trees, through which 
 might be seen cupolas and domes erected over the 
 ashes of departed greatness, and covered with the 
 mouldering stains of age. 
 
 Sirhind is of great antiquity, and during the 
 days of the Patau and early Mogul emperors was 
 always the seat of a government which controlled 
 a large tract of country ; its surveillance being in- 
 variably entrusted to omrahs of tried fidelity, and 
 of the highest rank. It was also a city of the 
 largest magnitude, but the few houses now inha- 
 bited might be comprised in a very small circum- 
 ference, and they are surrounded by a melancholy 
 scene of ruins. Mausoleums, almost in as moulder- 
 ed a state as the remains which they cover, are in- 
 numerable ; and though some are, from their 
 prodigious solidity (one close to the road having a 
 wall of masonry no less than eight feet thick) still 
 
FROM KURNAL TO LODIANAH. ^C) 
 
 standing, their dilapidated state tells that ages 
 must have elapsed since they were first erected, and 
 time is fast levelling even these with the gronnd. 
 In the outskirts extensive brick-kilns, from long 
 disuse, are now covered with verdure, and on some, 
 large trees having found sufficient nurture for their 
 growth, have converted these once ugly and bare 
 masses into, comparatively speaking, beautiful 
 knolls. 
 
 February 4th. This morning we marched to 
 
 Kunha-ke-serai, and a more uninteresting country 
 
 than that we have left behind us can scarcely be 
 
 conceived. Nothing was to be seen but a flat 
 
 and sandy plain, covered occasionally with scanty 
 
 herbage ; and as for trees, it would have been no 
 
 difficult matter to have counted all that came 
 
 within the sweep of our vision. We, however, 
 
 fared better where we halted, our encampment 
 
 being close to a very pretty grove of baubul trees, 
 
 whose yellow-scented blossoms threw a sweet 
 
 fragrance around. The village of Kunha does not 
 
 possess many houses, but has nevertheless a small 
 
 fort, situated on a slight eminence. To this I 
 
 walked in the afternoon, but the dirt and filth in 
 
40 FROM KURNAL TO LODIANAH, 
 
 its neighbourhood disgusted me so much, that I 
 was fain to make a hasty retreat, and remove from 
 odours not quite so pleasant as those thrown forth 
 by the baubul flowers. 
 
 February 6th, A long march of fifteen miles, 
 over a road at times extremely heavy and sandy, 
 brought us to Dowra, where there is a caravan- 
 serai situated on a hill ; and below, on one side, a 
 collection of small hovels, scarcely deserving the 
 appellation of a village. A few old ruined tombs 
 and temples are scattered towards the south, from 
 which it appears that in former days a town of 
 some kind or another existed here ; but the re- 
 mains are of no magnitude, nor is there much to 
 remark about them. On our arrival, a slight 
 shower of rain fell, and soon after blew over ; but 
 in the evening we had a violent storm of thunder 
 and very vivid lightning, accompanied for several 
 hours with such a deluge of rain that the tents 
 could scarcely ward it off, and indeed through 
 some it actually forced its way. 
 
 Fehrtiary 6th. We quitted Dowra-ke-serai at 
 five A. M., the rain of last night being succeeded 
 by most lovely weather, and having rendered the 
 
FROM KURNAL TO LODIANAH. 4] 
 
 atmosphere so clear that we had a beautiful view 
 of the snowy range to the north of the Kooloo 
 Hills, which differ greatly from that to the east- 
 ward, inasmuch that there are fewer peaks and 
 a more solid wall-like appearance about it. It 
 continued visible for some hours after sunrise, 
 displaying new and fresh beauties as the rising 
 orb of day gradually touched with a crimson light 
 the more prominent ridges, and threw them out 
 from the greater retiring mass. On approaching 
 Lodianah, the road became as sandy as the most 
 thoroughbred desert camel could have wished 
 for ; and on descending to what seemed to have 
 once been the bed of a river, (most probably an 
 old channel of the Sutledge,) we found the accu- 
 mulated waters of last night's rain to be above 
 knee-deep. Entering Lodianah we passed through 
 the bazaar, which is new and good, but not to be 
 compared with that at Amballa, either for its 
 cleanliness of appearance or neatness of construc- 
 tion. Its inhabitants are chiefly Cashmerians and 
 AfTghans, who migrated to this spot when Shah 
 Zeman and Shah Shoojah, the ex-kings of Cabul, 
 fled for protection to the British government, and 
 
4^ FROM KURXAL TO LODIANAH. 
 
 the latter of whom is now on his way to be re- 
 stored to his throne by the Army of the Indus. 
 Leaving the bazaar, we came to the cantonments, 
 which are not very inviting ; the bungalows in 
 general being small, and having nothing about 
 their exteriors to recommend them. Our camp 
 was pitched in front of the horse artillery lines, 
 and not far from the burying-ground, which is 
 already well crowded with tombstones. During 
 the course of the day I made some requisite offi- 
 cial calls, and have ascertained I am to be joined 
 by two companies of the 20th native infantry, 
 who are to escort 250,000 rupees to Colonel Wade's 
 camp, and the whole detachment is to be com- 
 manded by Captain Ferris* of that regiment. 
 
 February 1th. Received instructions to be in 
 readiness to march to-morrow, with discretionary 
 power to choose my own time for leaving Lodianah. 
 
 * Now Brevet Major Ferris, C B. 
 
CHAPTER III. 
 
 FROM LODIANAH TO LAHORE. 
 
 February 8th. After a most flat, dull, and un- 
 profitable march, we reached Ghon spore at four 
 p. M., having left the cantonments of Lodianah 
 at half-past one, and encamped opposite to a small 
 but unfinished temple, covered with thatch to pre- 
 serve it from rain, and situated in the midst of a 
 pretty clump of trees. 
 
 February 9th, Another uninteresting day's 
 journey to Siddum, twelve miles and a half, the 
 monotony of the march broken only by the road, 
 as it neated the village, winding through a small 
 plantation of trees, many of which were growing 
 on a slight eminence, and imparted to the scene 
 so truly an English aspect, that it was impossible 
 to regard the spot without pleasure. 
 
 February lOth. A continuation of the same 
 
44 FROM LODIANAH TO LAHORE. 
 
 uninviting country brought us to Dhur'ni Kote, 
 the road leading to it being execrably bad, and 
 not less than sixteen or seventeen miles in dis- 
 tance from Siddum. We arrived at the termi- 
 nation of our fatiguing journey just in time to 
 witness a marriage procession depart, for the 
 purpose of fetching and escorting the bride to 
 her future home. It consisted of a band of drums 
 and cymbals, two ruths crowded with silks, and 
 several gaily caparisoned horsemen, who displayed 
 their equestrian qualifications to the amusement 
 and gratification of the bystanders. One of these 
 sowars was a particularly well dressed and fine- 
 looking fellow w^ith a short red tuft tastily adjusted 
 in his turban, and a leathern shield studded with 
 brass bosses slung across his back, and half con- 
 cealed by his snow-white flow ing vestments. Being 
 by far the most imposing-looking individual in 
 the cortege, we at once decided that ll^ was the 
 bridegroom, and we were somewhat confirmed in 
 our opinion, as immediately behind him followed 
 a man bearing a chattah or umbrella, covered with 
 coloured paper and talc, and having long pendants 
 hanging from its circular edge, the *' tout ensem- 
 
FROM LODIANAH TO LAHORE. ^,5 
 
 ble" being somewhat in semblance to a crown. 
 This elegant (!) piece of workmanship, intended to 
 be held over the bride as soon as she makes her 
 appearance, was borne aloft with an air of pride 
 and display that plainly showed it was regarded 
 as no ordinary production. The approaching Be- 
 nedick, however, seemed so well satisfied with him- 
 self that there was no doubt he considered his own 
 person to be the centre of attraction ; and indeed 
 so much occupied had he been with decorating 
 himself that he had quite forgotten the condition 
 of his steed, which was dirty in the extreme, and 
 looked as if it had lately enjoyed itself by taking 
 a good roll in the mud, whereby nearly every ves- 
 tige of its primitive hue, white, was obliterated. 
 In this array, and followed by the admiring gaze 
 of the multitude, the procession moved on, and 
 was soon lost behind some trees that concealed its 
 further progress. 
 
 Dhur'm Kote is of some size, but contains no 
 building of any interest. Opposite to it is a mud 
 fort, defended by bastions, with a lofty building 
 in the centre, which overlooks the country, and 
 may be called the keep. In the evening Lieut. 
 
46 FROM LODIANAH TO LAHORE. 
 
 Rattray,* Ferris's subaltern, joined us, having 
 ridden out from Lodianah. 
 
 February Wth. We were not a little annoyed 
 this morning to find our guide, instead of taking 
 us towards Harike, as he was engaged to do, was 
 quietly piloting us along the high road to 
 Ferozepore ; and our mistake, unfortunately, 
 was not discovered until we had advanced many 
 miles beyond where we ought to have turned 
 off. The fellow, moreover, on being interro- 
 gated, candidly confessed his ignorance of the 
 direction in which Harike lay, and indeed ap- 
 peared to have been thrust into his present 
 office without any trouble being taken to ascer- 
 tain if he was capable of performing its duties 
 or not. Nay, it is more than probable the 
 jemadar of Dhur'm Kote pressed him for the 
 
 * This was ray first acquaintance with poor Rattray, a 
 most brave and gallant officer, with whom I afterwards lived 
 on terms of the most friendly intimacy. On his arrival at 
 Cabul he was appointed a political agent in Kohistan, where, 
 at the commencement of the fatal insurrection in AflFghanis- 
 tan, he was most cruelly and treacherously murdered. For 
 particulars, I must refer the reader to Lieut. Eyre's admirably 
 written work, pp. 70, 71. 
 
FROM LODIANAH TO LAHORE. 47 
 
 service, and considered, that by supplying a 
 man^ no matter what his qualifications were, he 
 had done his part towards' furthering us on our 
 journey. On questioning some residents of a 
 village near at hand, they told us of a cross- 
 road that would eventually lead us into the 
 desired route ; and, unpleasant as this appeared 
 to be, we had only the alternative of proceeding 
 by it, or else of retracing our steps nearly all 
 the distance to Dhur'm Kote. Every thing con- 
 sidered, we resolved upon trying the former 
 plan, and, having obtained a fresh guide from 
 among our informers, we recommenced our 
 march. The bye-road was by no means so bad 
 as we expected; but after some time, its marks 
 gradually became fainter, and less distinctly de- 
 fined, until, on descending into a hollow, (evi- 
 dently an old bed of the Sutledge,) it terminated 
 in a foot-path. On ascending the opposite bank, 
 nothing was to be seen but an extensive plain, 
 covered with tall grass, into the depths of which 
 we could trace the meandering path losing itself. 
 Conceiving this to be utterly impracticable for 
 wheeled carriages, the detachment was halted. 
 
48 FROM LODIANAH TO LAHORE. 
 
 whilst Rattray and I, taking a trumpeter with 
 us, scoured the country in the direction our 
 guide showed us we Were to go. After much 
 difficulty, we found a sufficiently wide opening 
 for the guns to pass through : so, ordering the 
 advance to be sounded, the troops moved on, 
 and, after numerous twistings and windings, we 
 succeeded in creeping through tliis belt of jungle 
 grass, which must have been nearly a mile in 
 breadth. After quitting it, we had to make a 
 direct cut across the country ; but the impedi- 
 ments we met with were few, and not difficult 
 to surmount. At last we reached the high-road, 
 which in a short time led us to Futtehgurh, a 
 large fortified village, with a lofty keep, three 
 stories high, in its centre, and close to which 
 we found our tents. The inhabitants, who, it is 
 evident, have seldom seen Europeans, crowded 
 the walls as we passed by, and greeted us with 
 a dialect, which even our sepoys had some diffi- 
 cultv in understandinof. 
 
 February V2th. Last night the thieves paid 
 us a visit ; but our sentries being on the alert, 
 they were scared before any thing of value was 
 
PROM LODIANAH TO LAHORE. 49 
 
 stolen. A Bunnea, however, lost his drinking 
 vessel, in spite of the strenuous efforts he made 
 to recover it, for, being aroused, he had scam- 
 pered after the rascal who took it, and seized 
 him by the head. The rogue's turban being 
 greasy, it slipped off, and he made good his 
 retreat with the stolen article, which was of 
 more value than the dirty headpiece proved to 
 be on examination. Such a row was made in 
 the camp, that it disturbed us all ; and the hubbub 
 consequent on the conversation arising out of 
 this adventure was long in subsidirg sufficiently 
 to admit of our again sleeping. 
 
 We left Futtehgurh at a quarter to six, and 
 had a capital road the whole way to Makhoo, 
 which may be about eight miles and a half distant. 
 It is a considerable village, surrounded by a mud 
 wall, with a broad street running through the 
 centre ; and nigh to it is a cutcha fort, with large 
 bastions, in good repair, and capable of making 
 a stout resistance against anything but artillery. 
 The interior wall of this is about twenty- two feet 
 high, and pierced with loopholes for musketry ; 
 and before it is a covered-way with a parapet, 
 
50 FROM LODIANAH TO LAHORE. 
 
 some twelve or fourteen feet in height, and with 
 apertures for defence also. We had to wind 
 round the covered-way for nearly half the extent 
 of the fort before entering the gateway, through 
 which we were admitted by a wicket of small 
 dimensions, to a roofed passage that evidently 
 forms part of the shelter which the place affords 
 to man and beast. In the centre of the fort 
 there is a large mud building, to which access is 
 obtained by means of a ladder, and as it is also 
 pierced for musketry, it may be regarded as 
 the citadel to which the inhabitants would retreat 
 as a last resort. One side of the area is occupied 
 by a long range of stables, and the other by cir- 
 cular huts, in the shape of gigantic bee-hives, 
 constructed of straw bands firmly tied together, 
 and covered with mud to keep out the rain. 
 These contain the supplies of the garrison, and 
 under the bastions are small apartments for its 
 accommodation. It belongs to the Aliwoola rajah, 
 as do many of the forts and villages we have seen 
 since our departure from Lodianah. 
 
 In the evening, Ferris and I rode down to the 
 Ghat, to see what facilities there were in readiness 
 
FROM LODIANAH TO LAHORE. 5I 
 
 for crossing the Sutledge to-morrow ; but on 
 our way we met with a sepoy, who had been 
 despatched early in the morning to collect the 
 boats, &c., and who was returning to inform us 
 that the authorities on the other side of the river 
 have refused us a passage, as no " purwunnah,"* 
 from the Maharajah, directing our admittance 
 into the Punjab had been received by them. We, 
 nevertheless, rode on, and on our reaching the 
 banks, we sent a message to the chief at Harike, 
 the village situated opposite to the Ghat, request- 
 ing him to cross and confer with us; but, after 
 waiting an hour, our messenger came back, 
 accompanied by a common sowar, whom the inso- 
 lent fellow had sent over in his stead, and to 
 whom, beyond a question, F. would have nothing 
 to say. We accordingly returned to Makhoo, and 
 a letter was immediately despatched to the assist- 
 ant political agent at Lodianah, informing him of 
 the treatment we had met with, and the delay that 
 was likely to ensue. Game both yesterday and 
 to-day was very plentiful, and the black partridges 
 
 were particularly numerous. 
 
 * A written order. 
 D 2 
 
52 FROM LODIAXAH TO LAHORE- 
 
 Fehruary 13. Moved our camp this morning 
 to the banks of the Sutledge, that we may be in 
 readiness to cross immediately the purwunnah 
 arrives. The commandant (as he is called) of 
 Harike is evidently afraid we shall attempt a 
 passage before the order reaches him, as he has 
 kept all the boats on his own side of the river, 
 and will not allow even one to be used for trans- 
 porting the merchants' hackeries across, and which, 
 in consequence, are collecting on either bank in 
 \"ast numbers. The chief of Makhoo, a very civil 
 man, who accompanied us to our present halting 
 ground, constructed a raft of reeds and other such 
 frail materials, and wafted himself across to Ha- 
 rike, where he had an interview with the *' com- 
 mandant," and pointed out to him the incivility 
 of his conduct, in not waiting upon us in person 
 yesterday. This brought him over, attended by 
 a numerous train, carrying spears, bows and 
 arrows, and other weapons of defence, he himself 
 being accoutred in a suit of yellow silk, with buff 
 paej amahs, or trowsers, made from the skin of a 
 deer. During the interview, he excused his pre- 
 vious behaviour by pleading illness, but this w^e 
 
FROM LODIANAH TO LAHORE. to 
 
 had every reason to believe was a mere pretext 
 got up for the occasion, as our sepoys who were 
 sent across, saw no symptoms of sickness about 
 him, nor did he then, though he spoke to them, 
 allude to it. He was soon dismissed with instruc- 
 tions to acquaint us immediately he got the Maha- 
 rajah's *' purwunnah," and he was told his conduct 
 had not only been reported to the British autho- 
 rities, but would most likely reach his Highness 
 Runjeet Singh's ears also: information he was by 
 no means grateful for, especially the latter part 
 of it, as he knew if it once got to Lahore, he 
 would, more than probably, lose his present ap- 
 pointment. As he was leaving, he asked per- 
 mission to ply his boats across ; but with this he 
 was acquainted we had nothing to do, and that 
 he might please himself on the subject. Accord- 
 ingly, in the afternoon, one solitary boat was to 
 be seen travelling backwards and forwards, which 
 shows the old fellow is still suspicious and afraid 
 to send more, lest we should make use of them 
 ourselves. 
 
 Evening closed in with a lowering sky, and 
 shortly after sunset, a severe storm of thunder, 
 
54 FROM LODIANAH TO LAHORE. 
 
 rain, and lightning set in, and lasted two liours. 
 It was, however, very grateful to us, as during 
 the whole day, thick clouds of sand were inces- 
 santly driving into our tents, and powdering every 
 thing as if with salt. The rain effectually put 
 a stop of this. 
 
 Fehruary 14. We are still on the same encamp- 
 ing ground, and no message as yet has been sent 
 from Harike, to inform us we may proceed ; so 
 how long we are to be detained in this unpro- 
 pitious spot there is no guessing at. The single 
 boat still plies across the river, which is now 
 about five hundred yards broad, the Beas flow- 
 ing into it a short distance above; but, in 
 the rainy season, it must average from one mile 
 and a half to two miles. Porpoises are to be 
 seen playing in its waters ; and to while away 
 the tediousness of our detention, we are fain to 
 amuse ourselves with watching their antics, as 
 well as to observe the embarkation and disem- 
 barkation of passengers from the solitary ferry- 
 boat. From the specimens it has brought over, 
 we have unanimously pronounced the Sikhs 
 to be a fine handsome-looking race, with a 
 
FROM LODIANAH TO LAHORE. 55 
 
 cast of countenance resembling that of the Jews ; 
 their manliness of appearance being increased by 
 the magnificent beards and moustachios which 
 they wear. Their fondness for showy and gaudy 
 colours is excessive, especially amongst the higher 
 class ; and usually consists of a yellow, orange, 
 crimson, or other bright-coloured robe, with a 
 turban to correspond : most of these articles being 
 composed of silk stuffs. The majority carried 
 a spear or sword, and shield; and a few wore 
 a curious sort of plume, about a foot high, the 
 top of which, from its arrangement, very much 
 resembles the flower of the cockscomb, but the 
 remaining part being bare, gives it too much of 
 a ragged appearance to look well. Of the females 
 we saw but few, and from the carefulness with 
 which they enveloped their faces, as well as from 
 the stiffness of their gait, we concluded they were 
 but too happy to conceal their age behind their 
 mantles. 
 
 February 15. Near 4 p.m., yesterday after- 
 noon the welcome purwunnah, containing orders 
 for our admittance into the Sikh country, was 
 received, and we instantly commenced the passage 
 
5g FROM LODIANAH TO LAHORE. 
 
 of the Sutledge, which, after a lapse of three 
 hours, was accompKshed without any loss or dif- 
 ficulty. We reached our encampment at Harike 
 a little after seven, it being situated about a mile 
 and a half from the Ghat, and the road leading 
 to it being for the first quarter of the way ex- 
 ceedingly heavy and sandy. Our baggage, tents, 
 and such like articles, did not come up till past 
 nine, at which fashionable hour we sat down 
 to dinner; and a sumptuous one it was, too, 
 considering time, place, and circumstances, 
 though perhaps a leetel too much of the river's 
 sand formed one part of its ingredients ; but 
 this was to be expected, as our kitchen, con- 
 structed on the bank, with only the shelter 
 of a thin mat, had been exposed to a windy 
 day ; to hungry men, however, it did not much 
 matter. 
 
 At ten A.M. a Sikh chief, attended by a large 
 rabble, and mounted on a white horse, visited the 
 commanding officer. He was dressed from top 
 to toe in bright green silk, edged with gold lace, 
 and across his body was slung an embroidered 
 belt of the same costly material, to which a 
 
FROM LODIANAH TO LAHORE. 5'^ 
 
 sword was attached, whilst a shield hung negli- 
 gently behind his back. He was considered of 
 sufficient importance to be entitled to a chair, and 
 accordingly one was given to him ; but two of his 
 followers, men of venerable appearance, with long 
 white beards, took their seats behind him on the 
 floor of the tent, the others remaining on the outside. 
 In the course of conversation we learnt he is, by 
 the Maharajah's orders, to accompany us as meh- 
 mindar to Lahore ; but being a man of taciturn 
 disposition, and his language somewhat difficult 
 to understand, we could not gather much infor- 
 mation from him, and he was soon permitted to 
 take his leave. He, amongst other things, told 
 us it was the Maharajah's gracious intention to 
 feed the whole camp whilst in his territories. 
 
 About noon it became very cloudy, and threat- 
 ened to rain ; but it afterwards cleared up, and 
 the afternoon was beautifully fine, though ren- 
 dered unpleasant by a strong wind driving a 
 large quantity of dust into our tents. This 
 annoyance, however, abated sufficiently in the 
 evening to admit of Rattray and myself taking 
 a stroll to the village, which consists entirely of 
 
 D S 
 
53 FROM LODIANAH TO LAHORE. 
 
 mud huts, and is of some size. It is situated close 
 to the banks of the river, the cliffs of which are 
 about forty or fifty feet in height, and very pre- 
 cipitous. Ravines run into the country for some 
 distance, and one is made to answer the purpose 
 of a ditch to the fort, which is hexagonal, with 
 very short curtains, and built of unburnt bricks. 
 It has in the centre a small mud building with a 
 square brick erection on its summit, which serves 
 as a watch-tower. 
 
 We were amused here at observing a man 
 making pottery, wliich he performed in the most 
 simple manner possible. In the centre of a cir- 
 cular hole, two feet and a half deep by as many 
 in diameter, a wooden staff was inserted, and 
 upon this, close to the bottom, but not touching 
 it, was a solid wheel of wood, whilst another of 
 smaller dimensions was fixed nearer to the top. 
 The whole of this apparatus was planted perpen- 
 dicularly into the ground, and the man, sitting on 
 the edge of the cavity, worked the larger wheel 
 with his foot, whilst with his hands he moulded 
 the clay placed on the smaller one (which was 
 turned vrith the former) into whatever form he 
 
FROM LODIANAH TO LAHORE. 59 
 
 required. We saw him construct a utensil some- 
 what in the shape of a flower-pot, and he finished 
 it in a very neat manner in less than five minutes. 
 The poor fellow, who was miserably clad, com- 
 plained bitterly of the cold ; but this was not to 
 be wondered at, for, independent of his ragged 
 costume, he had to dip his hands into water every 
 fifteen or twenty seconds, and the weather was 
 very much inclined to be more than chilly in its 
 influence. 
 
 February 16. We left Harike, or Hari-ke-put- 
 tum, as it is indifferently called from its ferry, at 
 half-past five, and proceeded along a capital road 
 to Putti. As the night had been frosty, we had 
 a beautiful clear morning without a cloud ; and 
 to the north-east there was the magnificent snowy 
 range towering high into the pure air, and form- 
 ing a prospect that can never satiate the eye 
 by being too often looked at. About the third 
 mile we came to a large baoli, or well, at one 
 end of which a building is erected for the accom- 
 modation of travellers, and from whence a flight 
 of steps leads down to an arcade close to the 
 surface of the water. This arcade is finished 
 
(5Q FROM LODIANAH TO LAHORE. 
 
 in a neat and somewhat ornamented st}le, being 
 decorated with pilasters, and having recesses for 
 lamps, &c. We passed several villages, which 
 became more numerous as we approached Putti, 
 where we halted, and which is a large brick town 
 possessed of many houses two stories high. A 
 lofty wall surrounds it, and where this has fallen 
 into decay it has been repaired with huge lumps 
 of clay carelessly cemented with the same ma- 
 terial, and which, together with the tottering 
 state of several of the residences, clearly indicates 
 that the place is gradually being deserted. Close 
 to the city is a fort consisting of a square brick 
 enclosure, with bastions at the angles, and sur- 
 rounded by a mud wall of an hexagonal shape, 
 very similar to that at Harike. 
 
 After breakfast Rattray and I walked round 
 the environs of the town, and the first thing we 
 fell in with of any interest was a Persian water- 
 wheel, worked by two bullocks, (though not then 
 at labour,) which must raise a large quantity of 
 water at a time, as the vessels affixed to its cir- 
 cumference were of some size, and very numerous. 
 From this we proceeded to a burying-ground, but 
 
FROM LODIANAH TO LAHORE. gj 
 
 whether for Mussulmans or Hindoos we could not 
 make out, as it bore indications of belonging to 
 both. Some of the larger tombs were very neat, 
 and constructed of good materials, and one was 
 peculiar, from having a dome erected on the 
 ground, within another and a larger dome ; the in-- 
 side of the latter being decorated with paintings, 
 or rather devices in colour. Around these, again, 
 were evidently the fresh ashes of burnt bodies, 
 (Hindoos,) on which spots small sticks were placed 
 at the four corners of the graves ; those of an 
 older date being marked out by low erections of 
 mud, with a recess in each, sufficiently large to 
 hold a lamp. Leaving the cemetery we ascended 
 a brick kiln, from whence we had a very good view 
 of the city and surrounding country, which is not 
 so highly cultivated as I expected to have seen it ; 
 but as trees and brushwood covered it in every 
 direction, it wore a pleasant aspect, and was an 
 agreeable change for the unceasing barrenness 
 that we had latterly been accustomed to on the 
 other side of the Sutledge. 
 
 We were joined by an intelligent fakeer, who 
 told us the district belongs to Lena Singh, one 
 
Q2 from LODIANAH to LAHORE. 
 
 of the Maharajah's sirdars, and that the town is 
 composed of nearly half Mussulmans and half 
 Hindoos, with a sprinkling of Sikhs. " Its inha- 
 bitants," he concluded, " are peaceful and well-dis- 
 posed, but the neighbouring villages are infested 
 with thieves and robbers." Two or three ponds 
 of some size lie close to the town, and in the one 
 immediately fronting us was a party of grown-up 
 women bathinfj themselves without a sing^le article 
 of covering on ; nor did our presence seem at all 
 to disconcert them, for they went on with their 
 ablutions as if quite unconscious of the indelicacy 
 of the act. Such, however, is a common occur- 
 rence in the Punjab. 
 
 We walked in the evening to the shrine of a 
 celebrated saint, who lived in the time of Akbar 
 the Great, and which is kept in excellent repair. 
 An old woman has charge of it, but beyond a 
 word here and there we could not understand her, 
 nor she us. She permitted us to enter the build- 
 ing, and pointed out a tomb nine yards in length, 
 as the spot where his bones are interred, but we 
 could not ascertain from the lady whether this 
 extraordinary grave-stone was also supposed to 
 
FROM LODIANAH TO LAHORE. nQ 
 
 mark the height of the individual ! At the head, 
 and a little to the right, is a large niche with a 
 diminutive balcony, and surmounted by a semi- 
 cupola, and from the manner in which it was dis- 
 coloured, there is no doubt but it is used as a 
 receptacle for lamps when the shrine is illu- 
 minated. The interior elsewhere is quite plain, 
 and possesses a magnificent echo, and the exterior 
 on the whole is pretty, though disfigured by 
 devices in colours, but these are small, and not to 
 be distinguished from a distance. 
 
 February I7th. Marched to Sursing, which 
 cannot be less than twelve miles and a half over a 
 road not nearly so good as that of yesterday's, 
 though still fair. The whole of the surrounding 
 country was enlivened by cultivation, and the 
 crops appear to be thriving most admirably. 
 Many of the fields which were sown with a grain 
 that bears a flower very similar to that of the 
 mustard, were one sheet of golden yellow, and dif- 
 fused an odour most fragrant to the olfactory 
 nerves. Occasionally the road became confined, 
 and enclosed with hedges of dry brushwood, which 
 reminded me somewhat of Old England, and more 
 
g4. FROM LODIANAH TO LAHORE. 
 
 SO as the weather is peculiarly mild and pleasant. 
 We passed several villages, and in one place a few 
 buildings that to us appeared to be the country- 
 houses of the wealthy, some of them having 
 large gardens enclosed with high brick walls at- 
 tached. Our encamping ground to-day was any 
 where but in a pleasant situation ; the best spot 
 the camp colourman could select for the purpose 
 being a recently ploughed field, as dusty as one 
 could well wish it. 
 
 The village is large, and possesses some lofty 
 brick houses, and near to it are some magnificent 
 bere-trees, the largest by far that any of us had 
 seen in India. As there is a good deal of wood and 
 water in its neighbourhood, there are many pretty 
 spots, and one which would have answered admir- 
 ably for our camp, we afterwards learnt, is close 
 to the road we take to-morrow. On one side of 
 the town a number of gipsies had taken up their 
 temporary abodes, and were busy at their usual 
 avocation of basket-making. They solicited alms 
 of us, as a matter of course ; but as they appeared 
 to be a strapping and thriving race, we did not 
 deem it expedient to accede to their request. 
 
tllOM LODIANAH TO LAHORE. g^ 
 
 February 18. We struck camp this morning 
 at 5 A.M., and we had a good road, though one 
 that winded a great deal. Cultivation was even, 
 if possible, more extensive than we had yet seen 
 it, and the villages more numerous. About half 
 way we passed through one which was very regu- 
 larly built ; the mud huts having, at a few feet 
 distance in front, a brick wall some eight or ten 
 feet high, with a low doorway leading to each 
 house, but, strange to say, in no other way con- 
 nected with the dwellings. 
 
 Manihala (where we halted) is situated on an 
 eminence, and has many lofty and narrow houses 
 which appeared from a distance more like towers 
 than anything else, and looked extremely pretty 
 as we approached it. It is divided into two por- 
 tions by the main road running through the 
 centre, but both are similar in character. We 
 encamped close to a clear tank, in which there 
 is a diminutive island covered with a species of 
 fir-tree, and with so light an appearance as to 
 make one fancy it floated on the surface. An 
 elegant mausoleum is erected near it, and covers 
 the remains of a jemadar of the town, who died 
 
QQ FROM LODIANAH TO LAHORE. 
 
 four or five years ago, and always resorted to the 
 island as a retreat from the hot winds. The gar- 
 den, in which is the tomb, is still in good order and 
 now belongs to his son, who, at the time we 
 visited it, was seated in an arbour, and enjoying 
 himself with a party of his friends. 
 
 February 19. We left our ground earlier than 
 usual this morning, that we might enter Lahore an 
 hour or two after sum*ise ; and as the road the 
 whole of the way was excellent, we accomplished 
 our object. For three or four miles before ar- 
 riving at the imperial city of the Punjab, the 
 country around presented one scene of ruins, 
 nothing being visible but confused heaps of brick, 
 with here and there a mosque or a mausoleum in 
 a half decayed state, but still bearing traces of 
 former magnificence, and pointing out where one 
 of the most ancient cities in Hindostan had ex- 
 isted. In one of these tombs of a large size and 
 in better repair than the majority, a gang of 
 Akallies (a tribe of religious fanatics peculiar to 
 the Punjab, and of a character approaching to the 
 fakeer of India) had taken up their abode. These 
 people are of low caste ; but somehow or another 
 
FROM LODIANAH TO LAHORE. g^ 
 
 have contrived to obtain a degree of power which 
 renders them formidable ; and as on account of 
 their sacred character they are nearly, if not 
 totally, exempted from all punishments for their 
 misdeeds, they have become insolent and over- 
 bearing almost beyond endurance. As we passed 
 by, some of them hurled at us a vocabulary of words 
 which no doubt contained epithets of a most dis- 
 respectful nature ; but being in a language un- 
 known to us, we were perfectly content to remain 
 in ignorance of their meaning. Captain Ferris see- 
 ing a fire in the place, directed his Syce to procure 
 a light for his cigar, but on the man's attempt- 
 ing to take one, the Akallies vociferated loudly 
 and turned him out sans ceremonie. They dress 
 somewhat like the fakeer, occasionally besmearing 
 themselves with ashes ; but the generality wear 
 more clothes and a conical turban of a peculiar 
 but elegant shape, which they don with much 
 taste ; and several suspend on it two or three sharp 
 quoits, which they throw with such great dex- 
 terity as to render them at close quarters most 
 formidable weapons. 
 
 A mile or two from this spot we reached the 
 
(Jg FROM LODIANAH TO LAHORE. 
 
 Delhi gate of the city, where we intended to have 
 halted ; but the total absence of water in its im- 
 mediate neighbourhood obliged us to move on 
 till we came to a spot that would suit us, and 
 this we found outside the city wall and in front 
 of the Maharaj all's palace, which consists of a 
 confused but magnificent and extensive heap of 
 buildings, each so different from its fellow that it 
 is impossible to describe its general appearance. 
 
CHAPTER IV. 
 
 LAHORE. 
 
 As soon as our camp duties were concluded and 
 the guns parked, R. and I walked to the palace 
 gateway, which was but a short distance from our 
 ground, and approached by a long bridge plastered 
 with white chunam and embellished with several 
 hideous representations intended for peacocks. 
 At one end of it also, a bird of the same descrip- 
 tion with expanded tail is cut out in wood, and 
 occupies a conspicuous place. As we saw several 
 in their wild state this morning running about un- 
 molested, I conclude they are here, as in most 
 other parts of Hindoostan, regarded as sacred. 
 The gateway, which consists of a tolerably lofty 
 archway with a tower at each side, is also covered 
 from its summit to its base with paintings, the 
 greater number taken from the history of Crishna 
 
70 LAHORE. 
 
 as related in the Prem Sagur, though a few de- 
 scribe the habits and peculiarities of the wandering 
 fakeer. The figures are almost all about one- 
 third the size of life, but with proportions as 
 ludicrous and absurd as they can well be. In 
 some the eye occupies nearly the whole side of 
 a face, and in others the head appears as massive 
 as the body. Here fakeers may be seen with 
 their hands clasped above their heads, and with 
 finger-nails two or three inches long ; there others 
 standing on one foot, their bodies besmeared with 
 ashes, and their long lank hair streaming over 
 their shoulders in the most offensive state of filth. 
 Crislina's exploits occasionally partake of the 
 ludicrous and disgusting. In one compartment 
 he is portrayed with a milkmaid shampooing his 
 gi'eat loe ; in another, he is perched up in a 
 tree, from the branches of which depend various 
 articles of dress he has stolen from some fair 
 damsels who are refreshing themselves in a limpid 
 stream below, and whose heads and liands, clasped 
 in a supplicatory manner, appear above water 
 beseeching him to return their apparel, but to no 
 purpose, as he is only laughing at their distress. 
 
 i 
 
LAHORE. yj 
 
 In a third, he is dashing out the brains of a man 
 with his club ; and in a fourth, tearing out the 
 entrails of a prostrate foe with the most brutal 
 ferocity. Having satisfied our curiosity at these 
 wonderful (!) embellishments, we passed beneath the 
 archway and came to the inner gate of the palace ; 
 but here we were stopped by a sentry, who for- 
 bade our further progress. We remarked, how- 
 ever, that it is enriched with paintings of a similar 
 character to those on the first, and though no 
 doubt considered in good taste by the Punjabees, 
 to Englishmen they have a most ridiculous ap- 
 pearance. 
 
 Close to the palace there is a large mosque co- 
 vered in with domes of white marble ; but fearing 
 we might be prevented gaining an admission, we 
 deferred visiting it until w^e shall be accompanied 
 by an influential person with power to pass the 
 numerous guards who are to be met vdtli on 
 every side. 
 
 The wall which surrounds the city is constructed 
 of burnt brick, and is in excellent repair. Its 
 height is between thirty-five and forty feet, with 
 circular and angular bastions at intervals, and has 
 
7^ LAHORE. 
 
 in front a covered- way with a brick parapet, and 
 a tolerably broad ditch with a counterscarp of 
 twenty feet. The wall is also pierced with loop- 
 holes for musketry, and I believe is further de- 
 fended by cannon, though I did not obsen^e any. 
 Its circumference must be two or three miles in 
 extent, if not more; and a double set of gates, 
 which are always shut at eight or nine p. m., 
 debar all ingress and egress after those hours. A 
 l)ranch of the river Ravee (the ancient Hydraotes) 
 runs close to it on the west side, but as in the 
 rainy season the main stream unites with this, 
 Lahore may be truly said to be built on the left 
 bank of the river. 
 
 Shortly after returning to our tents. Captain 
 F , who had ridden to Anarcolly to visit a 
 friend of his (Colonel Foulkcs) in the Maharajah's 
 service, came back, bringing that officer with him, 
 and who before taking leave insisted that we 
 should all dine with him in the evening. He 
 told us, the salute we had heard as we approached 
 Lahore, were minute guns firing in honour of 
 General AUard, who lately died at Peshawar, and 
 whose body had been brought to the capital for 
 
LAHORE. 73 
 
 interment, had this morning been removed from 
 his house at Anarcolly to his country residence 
 in the neighbourhood, where it will remain until 
 a suitable grave can be prepared for its re- 
 ception. On the occasion six regiments of the 
 Maharajah's were paraded for the purpose of pay- 
 ing respect to the memory of the deceased, who 
 was beloved both by natives and Europeans, and 
 whose death has cast a gloom over the city. He 
 breathed his last on the 23rd of January, having 
 suffered for some time from a diseased heart, and 
 his body, wrapped up in numerous cloths, but not 
 embalmed, was placed in a coffin and brought 
 from Peshawar in a conveyance that may be 
 termed a double tonjon. He had numbered 
 fifty-two years, and has left a wife and large fa- 
 mily, to whom he was greatly attached, and who 
 are all at present residing in France. His last 
 words were, " What will become of Madame 
 Allard ?" His amiable manners had endeared 
 him so much to Runjeet Singh, that his attend- 
 ants have not yet dared to inform that monarch 
 of his death, lest, as he is still in a precarious 
 state, it might produce a relapse or even more 
 
 E 
 
74 LAHORE. 
 
 fatal results, for liis health has considerably suf- 
 fered since the Governor-General's visit during 
 the last month. He left Lahore a few days ago 
 to visit Amritsir, and as he travels by very short 
 and easy marches, accounts have been received 
 of a decided improvement having taken place, but 
 he is yet very far from being recovered. During 
 five days he could not lie down to rest for fear 
 of suffocation, his tongue and tonsils having been 
 so weakened by a paralytic attack as to prevent 
 his throwing off the phlegm brought up by a 
 cough except with the greatest difficulty. Intel- 
 ligence arrived this morning that he had passed 
 a most excellent night, and had derived great 
 benefit from it ; and it is a source of great regret to 
 us that he is absent from Lahore at the present time, 
 a^ another opportunity of seeing and conversing 
 with so celebrated a character may not occur to us. 
 In the afternoon the Governor of Lahore, who 
 reigns supreme here during the absence of the 
 Maharajah, paid a visit of ceremony to the com- 
 manding officer, and, being a man of consequence, 
 was received with marked attention. His ap- 
 proach being announced, we walked about twenty 
 
LAHORE. 75 
 
 or thirty paces to meet him ; and on his alight- 
 ing from a palanquin, and salaaming, we bowed 
 in return, shook hands, and led him to our 
 tent, where we deposited our worthy burden on a 
 cane-bottomed chair, as no costly ottomans formed 
 part of our camp equipage. He here presented 
 Capt. F. with a " ziafut" of 250 rupees ; and after 
 having inquired respectively concerning our 
 healths, the conversation turned upon our march, 
 the state of the Maharajah, and such like topics. 
 Our visitor was a short, elderly, and rather 
 plainly-dressed man, with an intelligent and 
 somewhat amiable cast of countenance; and, as 
 he was the perfect gentleman in his manner, we 
 were altogether much pleased with him. He 
 remained rather better than half an hour, and 
 took his leave with the same ceremonies as above 
 mentioned ; his palanquin being attended by a 
 number of foot soldiers, carrying matchlocks, and 
 accoutred in a demi-sort of European costume. 
 
 In the evening we rode to Anarcolly, the 
 military cantonment of Lahore, to dine (as was 
 agreed upon) with Colonel Foulkes ;* but it was 
 
 * The termination of this officer's career was melancholy in 
 
 e2 
 
76 LAHORE. 
 
 SO dark when we reached his residence, I had 
 no means of judging of its exterior, further than 
 that it is of some extent, and had the never- 
 failing Eastern luxury of a fountain, or, I should 
 say, row of fountains, in the garden. The visi- 
 tors invited to meet us consisted of nearly all 
 the European officers in Runjeet Singh's army 
 present at Lahore, amounting to five or six in 
 number, with whom we passed a pleasant even- 
 ing, and from whose conversation I was glad to 
 learn they, in general, thought so well of the 
 Maharajah and his service, though it was not 
 always sunshine with them. Their chief com- 
 plaint against him, and, I must add, a very 
 natural one too, is the dilatory manner in which 
 they are paid ; for though each officer command- 
 
 the extreme. Daring the troubles that ensued on the death of 
 Runjeet Singh, he \ras sent to Mundi, where, eventually, the 
 troops under his command mutinied. He was warned of his 
 danger, and urged to make his escape ; but, with a spirit worthy 
 of his English birth, he resolved to remain at his post, and abide 
 the consequences. During the night, he was attacked by the 
 Sikh soldiers, who cut him down, dragged him from his tent, 
 and with demoniacal ferocity, threw him on to a blazing fire 
 before life was extinct! 
 
Lahore. >^<^ 
 
 ing a cavalry or infantry regiment receives, or 
 ought to receive, 500 rupees per mensem, 
 months elapse between one payment and an- 
 other, and they are at this moment several 
 thousands in arrears. For this they do not 
 blame the Maharajah so much as the ministers 
 by whom he is surrounded, and through whom 
 they trace any indifference he shows to them. 
 The same system is pursued towards the men ; 
 and Captain S. complained bitterly of the state 
 his corps was, in consequence, reduced to ; many 
 of his soldiers being only able to afford a meal 
 every third day, and numbers being without shoes 
 to appear in on parade. These latter he inva- 
 riably passes into the rear rank, to be out of 
 sight; but he has not yet found a remedy to 
 conceal the attenuated forms of the others. 
 Notwithstanding these deficiencies and draw- 
 backs, he was anxious we should see his regi- 
 ment paraded, and we have promised to attend 
 for that purpose at half-past three, to-morrow 
 afternoon. 
 
 Anarcolly, which is in the centre of the Lahore 
 cantonments, was the joint property and built by 
 the Generals Allard and Ventura. On their first 
 
7S LAHORE. 
 
 entering the Maharajah's service they lived to- 
 gether in a large adjoining mosque or tomb, where 
 the family of the latter, with about forty or fifty 
 female slaves, have resided without once moving 
 out of doors since the General took his departure 
 for France, now two years ago. He is, however, 
 daily expected here, as he arrived some months 
 ago at Bombay, and the intelligence of his friend's 
 death will no doubt hasten his movements. In 
 the room where we dined there was a portrait of 
 General Allard, which bespeaks him to have been 
 a handsome and benevolent man, possessing much 
 firmness and decision of character, tempered with 
 mildness. He wore, at the time it was taken, a 
 uniform similar to that of our horse -artillery, and 
 was decorated with two orders ; one, the " Legion 
 of Honour," the other the " Bright Star of the 
 Punjab," lately instituted by Runjeet Singh. Ano- 
 ther picture of the General and his family, taken 
 by a French artist when he returned home some 
 three or four years ago, was pointed out to us, and 
 though not finished, being merely the design from 
 which a larger drawing was made, the group is 
 well arranged, and the pretty faces of his Cash- 
 merian wife and his children, who were dressed 
 
LAHORE. 79 
 
 in the costume of their mother's country, drew 
 forth the admiration of us all. Adjoining the 
 dining-room is another of some dimensions, lined 
 from top to bottom with looking-glass, and which, 
 when illuminated, must have a brilliant effect, as 
 it looked extremely pretty and dazzling even with 
 the two candles that were brought in with us. 
 With the exception of wanting the bath and foun- 
 tains, it reminded me much of the " Sheeshah 
 Khanuh" in the palace at Agra. We were sub- 
 sequently shown into what may in truth be 
 termed ** the Painted Chamber," as it is adorned 
 with pictures of battles in which the two Gene- 
 rals were engaged, and executed on the chunam 
 walls by native artists. The perspective of these 
 scenes is most ridiculous ; and at the siege of 
 Moultan the cannons are turned up on end to 
 enable the gunners to load them ! the figures over- 
 top the fortification, and the cavalry seem to be 
 manoeuvring in the air; and absurdities of a 
 similar nature are perpetrated throughout them 
 all, and no doubt afford much amusement to their 
 gallant owners, whose policy has led them thus far 
 to assimilate their dwellings with those of the 
 native population ; for it can hardly be supposed 
 
80 LAHORE. 
 
 their taste is so far vitiated as to regard these 
 embellishments as ornamental. 
 
 Wednesday^ 20th February. We left Colonel 
 F.'s a little before midnight, and were escorted 
 to camp by a guard of a dozen Sikh sepoys, as 
 our host did not consider it advisable for us to 
 pass near Lahore without them, lest we should 
 meet with insults from the Akallies or others who 
 might be prowling about at that untimely hour. 
 The moon, which was not very far from setting 
 when we started, gradually became so obscured by 
 thick clouds that we had some difficulty in tracing 
 out our way, and on reaching the town it required 
 more than ordinary caution to keep clear of the 
 ditch that yawned on one side of us, and the edge 
 of which was on a level and not to be distinguished 
 from the road itself. Flashes of lightning, which, 
 when we left Anarcolly were indistinct, and near 
 the horizon, now became vivid,and flickered above 
 our heads, momentarily brightening our path and 
 casting an unnatural hue over the surrounding 
 scenery, and then lea\dng us in a thicker darkness 
 than before, whilst the thunder from a low rumble 
 had increased to a majestic peal that reverberated 
 through the heavens. A few portentous drops 
 
LAHORE. gl 
 
 caused us to hasten our steps as we approached 
 our tents, and we had no sooner reached the 
 shelter they afford than the clouds opened their 
 sluice-gates and poured down a torrent of rain 
 which lasted without intermission for ten hours. 
 Our camp, in consequence, presents this morning 
 a most miserable spectacle, and to-day's halt, 
 which I had gladly hoped would have proved 
 most beneficial to the troop-horses, affords any 
 thing but a comfortable rest to them, and is even 
 more injurious than a march in fair weather would 
 have been. With their clothing wetted through, 
 the ground beneath them flooded, and their heads 
 drooping towards the earth, they present a picture 
 of misery in unison with the rest of the camp, 
 where, here and there on the higher ridges, are 
 to be seen a few hungry followers vainly en- 
 deavouring to puff into a blaze some half-ignited 
 sticks, which, soon smouldered by the dampness of 
 the turf, throw forth a thick smoke that slowlv 
 ascends and curls over the tents before it is dissi- 
 pated. With such examples before us we saw 
 there was no possibility of getting any thing 
 cooked for ourselves, and a kettle of water being 
 
 e3 
 
gg LAHORE. 
 
 with difficulty heated we were fain to content 
 ourselves with a biscuit and a cup of tea for break- 
 fast, a meal we soon found to be quite insufficient 
 for three hungry men ; we therefore, as soon as it 
 was fine, and a few nags that had been standing 
 nearly up to their knees in water had been re- 
 moved to more elevated and drier spots, rode 
 over to Anarcolly, as we knew there must be some- 
 thing in the larder there. Two of us, however, 
 arrived rather late for the matin spread, but an 
 early tiffin being ordered, we in the mean time, 
 with Mons. Benet, the Maharajah's doctor, as our 
 ** cicerone," went to Allard's country-seat, where 
 his body is at present lying in state. 
 
 Crossing the parade ground, we entered on a 
 road that winds through a very pretty grove 
 of date-trees, celebrated for their exquisite fruit ; 
 and at the termination of this, on the right-hand 
 side, the late general's retreat is situated. A large 
 garden suiTounds it, but is not laid out with any 
 particular taste ; and the residence itself, two 
 stories high, is built in a half European and half 
 Native style of architecture; the whole, inside and 
 out, being embellished with paintings of dragoons, 
 
LAHORE. 33 
 
 lancers, and foot-soldiers, nearly half as large as 
 life. The coffin, covered with a black velvet pall, 
 was placed on a raised platform in the centre of 
 the lower apartment, and around it large wax- 
 tapers were kept burning night and day. On its 
 top laid the general's cap, his two orders, some 
 valuable cashmere shawls (the offerings of natives) 
 and a Persian sword, presented to him by the 
 Maharajah, who paid 5000 rupees for the blade 
 alone ; the hilt being of gold studded with jewels, 
 as were also the ornaments of the scabbard out- 
 side. Sentries were pacing to and fro at the 
 corners of the building, which is encircled by a 
 broad verandah, (where the same display of paint- 
 ings is made,) and has fountains at intervals, 
 embedded in its centre for the purpose of ren- 
 dering the apartments cool during the summer 
 months. We ascended to the upper room, which, 
 similar to that at Anarcolly, is covered with 
 looking-glass, and at the four corners of the roof 
 are small dormitories, very comfortable and airy. 
 
 In the same garden, and close to the residence 
 but exceeding it in size, is a large mausoleum, 
 erected by the general some years ago over the 
 remains of a daughter to whom he was greatly 
 
4 tAHORE. 
 
 attached, but who died in infancy. Its summit, 
 which is surmounted by a dome, is reached by a 
 flight of three terraces planted with orange, pome- 
 granate, and other trees ; but as few of them have 
 attained to any height, the building, which con- 
 sists of one heavy mass of brickwork, is to be seen 
 in all its pristine ugliness, and will be years before 
 it is concealed by the foliage. Entering the in- 
 terior, we found some labourers busy disinterring 
 a coffin, as it is resolved the corpse of the general 
 shall be buried in the centre of the pile, and tliat 
 of his daughter removed to one side ; but whilst 
 observing their work, a. second coffin was disco- 
 vered, about a foot and a half longer than the 
 first, and which none present knew any thing of. 
 This will therefore be placed on the other side, as 
 there is no doubt it contains another of the gene- 
 ral's family. 
 
 We had just got beyond the precincts of the 
 garden, when we met the governor of Lahore, 
 who, mounted on an elephant, was also on his way 
 to see the general lie in state ; and, as he requested 
 our company, we rode back with him. On enter- 
 ing the apartment that contained all the mortal 
 remains of poor Allard, he appeared much affected 
 
LAHORE. ^5 
 
 at the sight, and felt the solemnity of the scene ; 
 remaining for some moments without uttering a 
 word. He then launched out into praise of the 
 deceased, and spoke as if he really meant what 
 he was saying, and not as mere complimentary 
 sentences, which are too apt to be uttered on such 
 occasions. He put several questions to us con- 
 cerning the customs in use with Europeans when 
 burying their dead ; asking whether we had any 
 stated times for praying at their tombs ; whether 
 we offered flowers on their shrines, or ever burnt 
 them ; with many more interrogations of a similar 
 nature. He returned with us to Anarcolly, where 
 he sat some time, and in the course of conversation 
 apppeared anxious to know the reason I wore 
 spectacles, remarking with a smile, " he was sure 
 it was not on account of old age." The doctor 
 explained it as well as he could, and he seemed 
 greatly pleased at the ingenuity shown in rectifying 
 short-sightedness by means of concave glasses. 
 Nothing would, however, satisfy him until he had 
 tried them on ; but, being an elderly man, he 
 could not, as was to be expected, see any 
 thing with them. He remained upwards of 
 an hour, and on his departure the doctor showed 
 
^Q LAHORE. 
 
 US a magnificent shawl made at Caslimire by order 
 of poor Allard, which cost 3000 rupees, and which, 
 with another he intended to have presented to the 
 queen of France. I think Mons. B. said it was 
 three years in being made ; and the Cashmirians 
 are now working one for General Ventura, which 
 will cost double the above sum. 
 
 We dined with Foulkes again this evening, and 
 met at his table nearly the same officers as we did 
 yesterday. We heard from them that the Maha- 
 rajah is about to advance an anny to Peshawur 
 under General Tezie Singh, who will command 
 fourteen regiments of infantry, and sixty or seventy 
 pieces of ordnance : part of the force being already 
 encamped at Shahdera, on the opposite banks of the 
 Ravee. His lieutenant is General Ram Singh, 
 quite a young man, and the person who not long ago 
 murdered a favourite youth of Runjeet Singh, for 
 which he was mulcted in a fine of 20,000/. Report 
 says the lad had made rather free with the general's 
 character, which annoyed him so excessively, that 
 he was resolved to have his revenge ; and the better 
 to effect this, he, with others, watched his victim as 
 he was returning from durbar, and slew him ; 
 some say giving the first blow himself. No other 
 
LAHORE. 7 
 
 penalty than tlie fine was inflicted on the very 
 gallant ! officer ; but life is held cheap at Lahore, 
 and a murderer may always escape justice by pay- 
 ing 1000 rupees; unless he happens to kill a 
 person of rank, in which case, as in the above 
 instance, the sum is proportionally increased. 
 
 Some of the party again spoke of the kindness 
 which the Maharajah shows to his European offi- 
 cers, and mentioned that whenever they visit him, 
 he invariably asks them to be seated on a chair.* 
 I fancy, in these instances, they allude to private 
 durbars, for I have heard it stated that Runjeet 
 Singh, on public occasions, considers it his best 
 policy to throw the " Sahib-log" {Ang. gentlemen) 
 as much as possible into the shade, that he may 
 appear to be perfectly independent of their ser- 
 vices, and show to the world how easily he could 
 do without them ; and I understand also he is 
 particularly jealous lest the more powerful of his 
 generals should gain any undue influence or as- 
 cendancy over the minds of his nobles. However 
 this may be, he treats the most of them well, and 
 often makes them presents of pistols, matchlocks, 
 * A mark of high respect in Eastern courts. 
 
88 LAHORE?. 
 
 handsome saddle-cloths, horses, &;c. ; and to the 
 doctor he not long ago gave a most valuable 
 medicine-chest, vs^hich had been presented to him 
 by Lord William Bentinck, during their inter- 
 view at Roopur, in 1831. Before communicating 
 his intentions to'M. Benet, he showed it to him 
 in open durbar, and apparently out of mere curi- 
 osity, asked him what he thought it was worth. 
 After a cursory examination, the doctor replied, 
 " Five hundred rupees at the very least." ** It is 
 yours," added the Maharajah, " do with it what 
 you please." But the sirdars around, jealous of this 
 mark of favour, hinted that if a bottle was taken 
 out occasionally, and given to Mons. B., it woukl 
 be sufficient at a time, and the gift would last 
 longer. (!) To this Runjeet replied, ** No, no ; it 
 cannot be in better hands than those of the doc- 
 tor's, who shall keep the whole." 
 
 As an instance of his partiality for, and for- 
 bearance towards them, the following anecdote 
 may suffice: On a certain occasion, the Maha- 
 rajah had issued an order that no horses should 
 be allowed to enter the precincts of the palace- 
 yard ; but this Captain La F., who commands an 
 
LAHORE. gg 
 
 infantry regiment, did not hear, or did not attend 
 to; and one day, on his riding to durbar, was, 
 of course, stopped by the sentry oh duty ; he, 
 however, instead of dismounting, as was requested, 
 felt nettled at being opposed by a native, and in 
 the heat of the moment, and in a most unmilitary 
 manner, laid his whip rather smartly across the 
 soldier's back. Intelligence of this outrage was 
 immediately conveyed to the Maharajah's ears, by 
 persons ever on the alert to throw odium on the 
 Europeans ; but he, instead of being angry, di- 
 rected the instant admittance of La F. and his 
 charger ; adding, that he did not intend the man- 
 date should apply to Feringhees ; he also, in the 
 most delicate manner, waited till his chiefs had 
 withdrawn, and then told La F. of the order he 
 had given ; at the same time remarking, he was 
 aware of his conduct ; and adding, he was not, on 
 any account, to beat his sepoys again. 
 
 His passion for fine horses is notorious, and he 
 has large studs in various parts of the Punjab ; 
 the principal ones being at Dingee and Goojrat. 
 The famous Leila, for the possession of which it 
 is well known he indulged in a long and expensive 
 
90 LAHORE. 
 
 war with its owner, is now quartered at the former 
 place ; and as the village is situated on our route, 
 I hope we shall see it. 
 
 Of the services, the artillery is his favourite 
 branch ; and he spares neither pains nor expense 
 to bring that arm to perfection. The most valu- 
 able horses he can buy, or receives in presents, he 
 invariably allots to it ; and there is now a mag- 
 nificent Arab in one of the troops, which was 
 given to him by Lord Auckland, at the same time 
 with a portrait of Queen Victoria, which, notwith- 
 standing the salaam and complimentary speeches 
 he made on receiving it, we were told he has 
 already bestowed on one of his omrahs ! He has 
 freaks of generosity which, at times, know no 
 bounds ; and the other day, during his illness, he 
 presented to his two gooroos, or spiritual teachers, 
 a lac of rupees (10,000/.), 80,000 being in gold 
 ingots, and 20,000 in sequins. Superstition, no 
 doubt, helps him to be liberal on these occasions. 
 After dinner we were indulged with a taste of his 
 celebrated liquor, and, certainly, more fiery bever* 
 age never passed my lips. He does not allow it 
 to be stilled for any one but himself, but he pre- 
 
LAHORE. 91 
 
 sents a bottle now and then to his officers, which 
 accounts for our having got a drop of the " rale 
 nate stuff." 
 
 February 21. Noormahal, the governor of 
 Lahore, much to our surprise, paid us another 
 visit ; but we were not long in discovering it was 
 for the purpose of delivering certain presents that 
 the " Lion of the Punjab" had been pleased to 
 send us. On Ferris was bestowed a silver-hilted 
 (gilt) sabre, attached to a gold embroidered belt, 
 a chogah of crimson pushmeena, handsomely 
 worked with lace, and a pair of solid gold bangles, 
 terminated at each end by a snake's head, and 
 enriched with emeralds and rubies in their unpo- 
 lished state. Bangles, of a similar nature and 
 value, and robes of the same texture, but inferior 
 in workmanship and different in colour, were 
 presented both to Rattray and myself; and had 
 we been in durbar, courtesy to the royal donor 
 would have obliged us to have donned them, and 
 we, no doubt, should have presented highly amus- 
 ing figures, enveloped in the folds of such cloaks. 
 As it was, we accepted the gifts with a salaam, 
 and laid them on one side with an indifference to 
 
92 LAHORE. 
 
 their worth, as it is more than probable we shall 
 be obliged to give them up, on account of an 
 existing regulation of Government, prohibiting 
 the reception of presents at Native courts, or when 
 received, directing them to be sold for the benefit 
 of the Company. Before taking his leave, the 
 governor informed us, that one hundred of the 
 king's sepoys will accompany us as far as Colonel 
 Wade's camp ; and that orders to furnish our 
 detachments with whatever necessaries we shall 
 require, have been issued to the various function- 
 aries on the road. 
 
 Intimation of our msh to visit the town having 
 been conveyed to the Maharajah, who is still 
 encamped between this and Amritsir, he was 
 pleased to direct a state elephant should be in 
 readiness to escort us through it, as well as to 
 issue orders that every facility should be afforded 
 us of gratifying our curiosity. As soon as Noor- 
 mahal had taken his leave, we mounted the ele- 
 phant and seated ourselves in the howdah, which 
 wis edged with embossed silver, and divided into 
 two compartments. Two attendants, clothed 
 respectively in yellow and pink silk, sat behind 
 
LAHORE. 93 
 
 US, and a guard of five sepoys, attired in red 
 and armed with muskets, cleared the way in front. 
 Having entered the city by the Musti gate, we 
 proceeded for some distance down the main street, 
 w^hich is filthy to a degree, and extremely nar- 
 row, being not more than thirteen feet in width. 
 Situated in it, is Bokhari Khan's mosque, an 
 edifice apparently of late construction, roofed in 
 with three large domes sheathed with gold ; and 
 as the sun was shining on the temple with noon- 
 day splendour, it looked extremely brilliant and 
 rich, though beyond the domes there is nothing 
 particularly attracting about it. Next in order 
 came the mosque of Wazur Khan, which is large, 
 and very beautiful ; but to see it properly, re- 
 quired that we should dismount : we therefore 
 descended from our elephant, and entered the 
 court-yard. Four minarets, covered with enamel 
 painting, the colours being arranged with great 
 taste, and of the most brilliant hues, rise towering 
 towards the sky, and connecting them are forty 
 rooms, where the dervishes were wont to read and 
 reside, but which are now filled with beggars and 
 decrepit individuals, who crawl about in a state 
 
94 LAHORE. 
 
 of disgusting nudity. The mosque itself is also 
 embellished with pigments, and with number- 
 less sentences extracted from the Koran, the let- 
 ters of which axe inlaid with such neatness and 
 accuracy as to excite wonder. The tomb of the 
 founder, surrounded by a light and pretty screen 
 of fretted work, occupies a small portion of the 
 court, and is, I believe, still regarded as a place 
 of sanctity by the Mussulman population. The 
 building, with its court-yard, covers three biggahs 
 of ground, and is in excellent preservation, though 
 built 215 years ago, according to our guide's in- 
 formation. Many of the beggars lined the gate- 
 way, and solicited alms as we passed ; and before 
 we entered, some of the faqueers wished us to 
 take off our shoes, a proposal we declined acceding 
 to, nor were we asked to comply with it by our 
 attendants. 
 
 Leaving the Wazeer Musjid, we returned two 
 or three hundred yards by the same street, the 
 houses of which are, for the most part, two stories 
 high, though some attain to three, and are gene- 
 rally ornamented with wooden balconies, richly 
 carved, and with semicircular domes over the 
 
r 
 
 LAHORE. 9/5 
 
 windows to shield them from the sun. Crowds 
 of persons, showily dressed in silks of every colour, 
 thronged the place, and with difficulty got out of 
 our way ; and had we met a vehicle of any descrip- 
 tion, I know not how we should have passed it. 
 Turning down another street, at the corner of 
 which a diminutive Hindoo idol, protected from 
 the weather by an equally small cupola, is erected 
 on a pedestal about fourteen feet in height, we 
 continued onwards, leaving to our right a small 
 temple crowned with bright green domes, and 
 which, strange to say, looked extremely pretty 
 amidst the surrounding houses. We shortly after 
 came to the musjid built by command of Aurung- 
 zebe, which we entered by one of the side gate- 
 ways, and were at once very much struck with 
 the massiveness, simplicity, and beautiful propor- 
 tions of the building now falling rapidly into 
 decay, but still retaining much of its former mag- 
 nificence. It is constructed of red freestone, inlaid 
 wdth white marble ; the mosque itself being sur- 
 mounted by three large domes of the latter costly 
 material, and crowned with gilt spires. Opposite 
 to it stands the principal gateway, which is lofty 
 
95 LAHORE. 
 
 and fine, but on the side facing the mosque very 
 much dilapidated, and fast progressing to ruin. 
 Surrounding the court are the dervishes' habita- 
 tions, fourteen feet wide, level at the top, and paved 
 with broad flag-stones, thus forming a parapet, or 
 walk all round the musjid; the wall of which 
 rises about three feet above it, and may be, from 
 summit to base, thirty feet in height : it is also 
 pierced with loopholes for musketry, to admit of 
 its being turned into a place of defence, if neces- 
 sary. The court-yard is 580 feet square, marked 
 out into rectangles by means of bricks inserted 
 sideways into the ground; and in the centre is 
 an excavation now choked with weeds and per- 
 fectly neglected, but which formerly received the 
 waters cast up by numerous fountains that still 
 exist. The minarets, which are lofty and plain, 
 are elegantly proportioned, and though shorn of 
 their cupolas, still appear as complete works of 
 art. We ascended one, and had to mount upwards 
 of two hundred steps ere we reached its summit : 
 but the magnificent view of the city and neigh- 
 bouring country spread beneath us more than 
 compensated for the fatigue of climbing a ruinous 
 
^5 
 
 *P*Trt-^-^ 
 
LAHORE. 9Y 
 
 staircase, tenanted by bats and pigeons, who 
 flitted and flew by in alarm at the intrusion. 
 The buildings in Lahore most conspicuous for 
 their size were pointed out as the residences of 
 Koi-now-nihal Singh, the Maharajah's grandson, 
 and of Rajah Dhian Singh, his prime minister ; 
 but there are many other large edifices, though 
 totally void of any pretensions to taste in their 
 architecture. In the direction of Manihala, the 
 extent of ruins is interminable, but the country 
 to the north-east is extremely pretty ; and also 
 about Shahdera, where the white tents of Tezie 
 Singh's army, at present encamped there, con- 
 trasted beautifully with the dark foliage of the 
 trees which surround the mausoleum of the 
 emperor Jehanguire. 
 
 Quitting this truly magnificent Musjid, we en- 
 tered the grounds belonging to the palace, one 
 portion of the first enclosure being formed by the 
 wall in which the principal gateway of the mosque 
 (on this side kept in perfect repair) is situated ; 
 and was the entrance which Aurungzebe invariably 
 used on going to his devotions, the populace being 
 admitted by the one through which we had passed, 
 
 F 
 
98 LAHORE. 
 
 In the centre of this square, which is laid out in 
 gardens and terraces, is an elegant little building, 
 erected by the Maharajah, with marble pilfered 
 from the tombs of Jehanguire and his wuzeer, 
 where he transacts business in the hot season. 
 The lower apartment is fourteen feet square, orna- 
 mented with looking-glass, gilding, and colours, 
 most harmoniously blended, and extremely rich. 
 Light is admitted through Saracenic arches on 
 pillars, and a verandah, eight feet broad, with a 
 ceiling embellished in the same style of profusion, 
 encompasses the whole, which is built on a cha- 
 bootra some four or five feet above the ground. 
 We ascended to an upper room of similar size and 
 shape, but even more beautifully and gorgeously 
 ornamented ; the four doors being decorated with 
 ivory, inlaid in various devices, each being different 
 from the other, and all arranged with much taste. 
 There is also an apartment under-ground, where 
 the Maharajah takes refuge from the hot winds, 
 and during the hours of recreation admits a few of 
 his most intimate friends. 
 
 A small open building, in which he occasionally 
 sits to enjoy the fragrance of his garden, stands on 
 
LAHORE. 99 
 
 the left of this, and another similar to it on the 
 right, where some five or six fakeers live, and 
 subsist upon his generosity. 
 
 Passing through another gateway decorated with 
 paintings of figures, wild animals, &c., fashioned 
 in the most grotesque style, we were conducted 
 into a large rectangular court, in which the Hall 
 of Audience is situated. Constructed of red free- 
 stone, its exterior would have been handsome, 
 but a coat of plaster has obliterated the fine 
 tracery of its workmanship, and imparted to it 
 a whitewashed appearance, anything but pleasing. 
 Although still used as a place of business, little 
 or no care seems to be taken of it, as two horses 
 were stabled under its arches, and marks of others 
 were but too conspicuous. The throne from 
 whence the emperors, in former days, were wont 
 to administer justice, projects from the centre of 
 one of the longer sides, and is raised several feet 
 above the ground : the other three being open, 
 and consisting of lofty arches on pillars : a row 
 also running lengthwise through the middle. 
 Opposite to it, on the other side of the court, is 
 a large building, surmounted by a Mussulman 
 
 f2 
 
100 Lahore. 
 
 coffin, and erected by order of Jehanguire ; with 
 the beautiful idea, that he was to remember, when 
 he distributed justice to others, a time would 
 come when his own actions would be tried by 
 a higher Power. 
 
 We were admitted through a low archway 
 beneath the throne to a small court, and close to 
 a building which contains the regal entrance to the 
 hall of justice. The exterior of this is covered 
 with paintings in oil of a very extravagant descrip- 
 tion, and evidently of late construction, as one 
 subject represents the interview of the Maharajah 
 with Lord William Bentinck at Roopur. The 
 parties are supposed by the artist to be assembled 
 in the audience tent, the Sikhs being arranged on 
 one side and the British on the other. The two 
 great potentates occupy the centre of the scene, 
 and Lady William, accoutred in white trousers, 
 boots, and gold straps, is seated a few paces behind 
 her husband. An uglier set of vagabonds than 
 the man of daubs has made of our countrymen 
 cannot well be conceived ; though the people who 
 accompanied us regarded them as likenesses, and 
 were eager to point out " Macnaghten Sahib," the 
 
LAHORE. IQI 
 
 " Bakhshee Sahib,"* and others, who have only 
 to see their portraits to be grateful. Another 
 picture represents the Maharajah in the presence 
 of Baba Nanuk, the founder of the Sikh sect: 
 the holy father being most splendidly robed in 
 a suit of embroidered gold, and sitting; whilst 
 his disciple, who has done so much to extend the 
 domains of his followers, is dressed in bright 
 green silk, and standing, with his hands joined in 
 a supplicatory manner. Behind the Baba, keep- 
 ing guard, is an Akalli with a drawn sword, and 
 with but very little covering. A third represents 
 a similar scene, with the single exception of Run- 
 jeet Singh being in a still more humiliating posi- 
 tion on his knees. A few drawings of flowers, 
 which separate these compartments one from an- 
 other, are extremely well done, and true to 
 nature. 
 
 On leaving the picture-gallery, as we dubbed 
 this remarkable building, we were conducted to 
 the king's garden, around which is a handsome 
 
 * Literally paymaster : Colonel Wade, so called from his 
 having had charge, for many years, of the treasure-chest at 
 Lodianah. 
 
\Q2 LAHORE. 
 
 stone balustrade, very much neglected, and requir- 
 ing a great deal of repair. At one extremity, 
 overlooking the surrounding country, is a small 
 kabgah, or holy building (where the ** Grunth," 
 or sacred book of the Sikhs, is read) erected on 
 marble pillars, with a very handsomely decorated 
 ceiling and tesselated pavement ; and, opposite 
 to it, another of similar construction, but more 
 beautifully enriched, though exceedingly filthy, 
 and used as a stable. In the open verandah in 
 front of the latter, there is a small fountain, the 
 reservoir of which is ornamented with flowers, 
 constructed of precious stones, let into marble, 
 but in so dirty a state, that our " cicerone" was 
 obliged to remove the mud ere they were visible ; 
 and it was really quite melancholy to see such 
 a profusion of magnificence entirely thrown away, 
 where a little cleanliness and care were all that 
 was required to restore it to its pristine beauty. 
 On quitting this, and passing through a common- 
 looking quadrangle, one side of which is used as 
 a granary, we again emerged into the court where 
 the Hall of Audience is situated, and crossing it, 
 were conducted to the Foundry, which occupies 
 
LAHORE. 1Q3 
 
 one corner of it. Amongst other pieces of ord- 
 nance, we were shown two very respectable-looking 
 brass ^4-pounder howitzers, lately cast from the 
 models of those presented to Runjeet Singh by 
 Lord William Bentinck ; and the superintendent 
 told us there were ready for service, in and about 
 the immediate neighbourhood of Lahore, 700 
 guns, of various calibres. We would willingly 
 have remained here longer, but were obliged to 
 hasten back to camp, as dense masses of clouds 
 had gathered overhead, and threatened an instan- 
 taneous deluge. 
 
 Previous to visiting the city, we were informed it 
 was more than probable we should be insulted by 
 the Akallies ; but, beyond one man calling out, 
 " There go a pair of English thieves!" and another 
 comparing us to a couple of pigs, we were allowed 
 to pass unmolested ; and as these fanatical gen- 
 tlemen are privileged in their own country to say 
 whatever they like, we were content to pocket 
 the affront. Ferris, who was here in May last, 
 with Mr. M*Naghten's mission, told me that, on 
 one occasion, when he and M., of the horse artil- 
 lery (in company with General Lena Singh), were 
 
104 LAHORE. 
 
 riding through the town, an Akalli made a cut 
 at the latter, with his drawn sword, but fortu- 
 nately missed him : and, on another, he saw a 
 number of these men attack a person on horse- 
 back, apparently of high rank, and after hurling 
 him from his seat, they dragged him into one of 
 the by-streets, up which he was hurried with 
 great rapidity. What became of him F. never 
 heard. 
 
 Soon after we had reached our tents the clouds 
 began to discharge their contents, but the rain 
 was neither heavy nor of long continuation ; and, 
 as soon as it subsided, we rode over to Anarcolly, 
 to inspect Captain Ste *s regiment, which was 
 unable to parade yesterday, on account of the 
 unsettled state of the weather, and which he pro- 
 mised we should see to-day. The same excuse 
 was, however, tendered on our arrival, and received 
 as a valid objection, the parade ground being a 
 perfect swamp. We had invited the whole party 
 there to dine in camp, but while they were pre- 
 paring to accompany us, the rain came down in 
 such torrents, and continued so long without any 
 intermission, that there was no moving out, 
 
LAHORE. JQ5 
 
 and we were obliged to take that meal with 
 them. 
 
 February 22. Several of the Maharajah's Eu- 
 ropean officers breakfasted with us this morning, 
 after which we visited the doctor's baraderie, or 
 summer-house, presented to him by Runjeet 
 Singh, and situated at no great distance from our 
 camp. It is raised some feet from the ground, 
 and surrounded by a pretty little garden, which, 
 in the rainy season, is so entirely covered with 
 water, that Mons. Benet found it impossible to 
 move out; and, on the Maharajah paying him a 
 visit in his barge, told him so, and intimated his 
 wish to live at AnarcoUy, which Runjeet Singh 
 very readily assented to. 
 
 At ten o'clock we mounted our horses and pro- 
 ceeded along a capital road to the Shalima* Gar- 
 dens, which are about three miles from Lahore. 
 At every mile we passed a ** baraderie," at one 
 of which the Maharajah generally remains to take 
 a meal, or spend the heat of the day, as may be 
 his inclination, when he visits this royal retreat. 
 We entered the gardens by a low gateway, and 
 were immediately delighted with the refreshing 
 
 F 3 
 
log LAHORE. 
 
 coolness of a shady and broad walk, paved with 
 bricks inserted sideways into the ground. Along 
 this we continued for a short distance, and then 
 ascended by a ramp to a higher terrace, from 
 whence a beautiful view of a large reservoir, filled 
 with fountains, (its pale blue waters receiving the 
 reflections of numerous surrounding buildings, 
 imparting to the scene an air of enchantment 
 rather than of reality,) burst upon our sight with 
 a suddenness almost startling. This resei'voir is 
 240 feet square, and has 160 fountains tastefully 
 distributed in and around it. Its centre is occu- 
 pied by a raised platform, with a balustrade about 
 a foot high, on which the native girls exhibit the 
 graces of their persons in the voluptuous dances 
 of the East, the monarch and his courtiers sur- 
 veyini^ their movements from a large summer- 
 house facing and erected on ground fourteen feet 
 above it, and which is also the height of what 
 may be termed the first compartment of the gar- 
 dens, comprising a space of 900 by 400 yards, 
 the whole being fronted by a wall of red freestone, 
 inlaid with white marble, and surmounted by a 
 low balcony of fretted-work. A number of very 
 
LAHORE. |()7 
 
 small but pretty minarets on the roof, impart 
 a lightness of construction to this " baraderie," 
 which is thrown open to the front by three large 
 Saracenic arches, and where, beneath the centre 
 one, a beautifully carved piece of white marble is 
 inserted at an angle of forty-five degrees, over 
 which the water from the upper fountains, after 
 passing beneath the building, dashes in a glitter- 
 ing cascade, and unites itself to that in the large 
 reservoir. A " takht," or throne, also of white 
 marble, the lower part being composed of one 
 immense slab, stands immediately in front of this, 
 and in days of yore, when used by the Mogul 
 emperors, was covered with costly shawls or car- 
 pets, on which they reclined, and, in the enjoy- 
 ment of this lovely spot, endeavoured to forget 
 the never-failing cares attendant on the possession 
 of a throne. 
 
 On the opposite side are two smaller buildings, 
 and between them a hollow square, about twelve 
 feet below the surface of the secoigd compartment 
 of the gardens, and on a level with the third, 
 which, in extent, is equal to that of the first or 
 upper one, the centre division being only 100 or 
 
103 LAHORE. 
 
 1;20 yards in breadth. In this square five large 
 fountains are arranged, and on three sides, recep- 
 tacles are constructed for upwards of 200 lamps ; 
 in front of which the springs play, and are to be 
 seen from the lower gardens, through an arcade 
 that forms the fourth side. The effect of this, 
 when illuminated, must be most gorgeous, as each 
 drop of water would sparkle with the brilliancy 
 of a diamond; and the collected thousands of 
 them thus form a blaze of light intensely vivid 
 and beautiful. Other edifices are on the right 
 and left of the large reservoir, which is surrounded 
 by broad terraces, divided into walks by parterres, 
 and filled with various-coloured and sweet-scented 
 flowers. 
 
 From the large " baraderie," in the upper 
 compartment, a line of fountains, with terraces 
 on either side, extends to the north wall of the 
 garden, where there is a very pretty building, 
 possessing a richly ornamented and painted ceil- 
 ing; and a lil^e range of founts stretches from 
 the hollow square with the arcade to a similar 
 erection at the southern extremity. Midway, 
 however, conservatories of water, with numerous 
 
LAHORE. IQ9 
 
 fountains, break the lines, and from these broad 
 walks branch off to other parts of the garden, 
 which is thickly planted with citron, pomegranate, 
 and other trees, and enclosed by a high embattled 
 wall, with, at intervals, a tower crowned by open 
 galleries, and two large gateways, now in a dila- 
 pidated state. There was one other and small 
 but elegantly furnished building, which attracted 
 our attention, and is situated apart from the rest, 
 having a small reservoir with fountains in front, 
 and a large but plain marble seat close to it. 
 Under-ground are apartments, to which light is 
 admitted through a doorway, constructed in the 
 shaft of a well, the water of which is seen some 
 twenty feet below. 
 
 Tradition assigns the completion of this almost 
 earthly paradise to the Emperor Shah Jehan, the 
 great patron of architecture, who, for the last 
 seven years of his life, was so barbarously impri- 
 soned by his son, Aurungzebe, in the fort of 
 Agra. Monuments of his taste exist all over 
 India ; and the Shalimar Gardens of Lahore and 
 Cashmire have attained a celebrity even through- 
 out Europe. So delightfully pleasant were they 
 
I J LAHORE. 
 
 to US, that we quitted them with regret; and 
 could we have seen them as they are prepared for 
 the reception of the Maharajah, with the foun- 
 tains playing, the lamps burning, and all the 
 pomp attendant on Eastern display, I doubt not 
 but we should have lingered on its walks beyond 
 the bounds of prudence. 
 
 On returning to our tents we visited some mer- 
 chants who had for sale a batch of horses, just 
 brought from Cabul, and the neighbouring coun- 
 tries. Some of them were exceedingly fine- 
 looking animals, but they asked extravagant 
 prices, and though we offered what we considered 
 fair sums for two, they declined accepting our 
 terms. 
 
 The weather, which had continueH turbulent 
 and stormy till near midnight, had been succeeded 
 this morning by a cloudless sky, whose clear azure 
 contrasted beautifully with the verdant turf, to 
 which the late rain had imparted an unusual 
 brightness ; and as the evening continued equally 
 fine, the people emerged from the city to peram- 
 bulate the numerous gardens situated in its envi- 
 rons, and for natives laid out with considerable 
 
LAHORE. Ill 
 
 taste. Crowds of well-dressed persons, very few 
 being without one or two articles of silk, hur- 
 ried by our camp, and as their costume consisted 
 of the gayest colours, the scene was altogether 
 lively and animated. At one moment, a noble of 
 the land, mounted on a richly caparisoned elephant 
 and surrounded by a train of matchlock-men, 
 passed by ; at another, a horseman carrying a 
 bow in his hand, and a quiver of arrows slung 
 behind his back, was to be seen curveting and 
 caracolling his steed, to attract the gaze and admi- 
 ration of the multitude. Here, a Sikh artisan, 
 habited in his holiday costume, comprising a yel- 
 low silk turban, with **paejamahs" of the same 
 material reaching to the knee, and a crimson 
 robe wrapped round his body, was hastening to 
 the fashionable rendezvous, and with him ano- 
 ther, enveloped in the folds of a scarlet cloth 
 chogah embroidered with gold, green silk trousers, 
 and a pair of ornamented slippers peeping from 
 beneath them. There was here much to remind 
 one of Oriental magnificence : the stately ele- 
 phant carrying the sumptuous howdah ; the pranc- 
 ing war-horse with its costly appointments ; the 
 
1 [O LAHORE. 
 
 glittering arms of the guards attendant on the 
 omrahs,* and the rustling silks of the more peace- 
 ful inhabitants, carried one back to the days of 
 Bernier, whose descriptions of the Mogul's court 
 were considered to have exceeded the truth ; occa- 
 sionally, however, the more closely-fitting dress of 
 an oflicer belonging to one of the Maharajah's regi- 
 ments pointed out that European customs had 
 been adopted to some extent, but the existing 
 head-dress of crimson or other bright-coloured 
 silk still attests the unwillingness of the Sikh 
 soldier to wear the chako, under the impression, 
 I believe, that it is constructed, or at least kept 
 together, by leathern bands formed from the sacred 
 hide of the bull. 
 
 The ruins of Lahore attest its great anti- 
 quity, but there are some grounds for conjecture 
 that it existed even so far back as the time of 
 Alexander, and was the city of the Second Porus, 
 whom that great Conqueror subdued.f In extent 
 and grandeur it rivalled the Imperial towns of 
 Delhi and Assa, and in the year 1015 was reckoned 
 
 * Nobles. 
 
 t Vide Dr. Vincent's " Voyage of Nearchus." 
 
LAHORE. 113 
 
 in some measure to be the capital of Hindoo- 
 stan, as the seat of government was then trans- 
 ferred to it from Ghuzni, by the Emperor Mu- 
 saood III. Subsequently, however, it does not 
 appear to have been a favourite abode of the 
 Mogul sovereigns until the reign of Jehanguire, 
 who resided here, as the purity of its atmosphere 
 agreed better with his constitution than that of 
 any other place, and it was also nearer to his oft- 
 visited retreat in the vale of Cashmire. Much of 
 his time was spent in beautifying both the town 
 and its environs, which were also greatly improved 
 and added to by his son Shah Jehan, but who, 
 though born here, lived in it only casually, as he 
 considered it too far distant from the southern 
 and more extensive portion of his dominions. 
 The bigoted Aurungzebe, his successor, merits 
 praise for being the founder of, perhaps, the most 
 magnificent pile in the city the Badshah's mosque, 
 of which mention has been made before, and on 
 which the eye is never satiated with gazing ; so 
 simply grand is the building, and so elegantly pro- 
 portioned are the minarets. 
 
 The present ruler of the Punjab, who gained 
 
I24 LAHORE. 
 
 possession of Lahore at the close of the last century, 
 fixed upon it as the seat of his government, but 
 lately he has become more attached to Amritsir, 
 an equally large and populous city, and which owes 
 its greatness entirely to his partiality. Apparently 
 anxious his name should be transmitted to pos- 
 terity as a firm supporter of that faith in which 
 he was brought up, he has endowed there a costly 
 temple, which strangers can only approach by 
 making large offerings of money, and submitting 
 to various ceremonies imposed upon them by the 
 officiating priests. The most wealthy of the mer- 
 chants and tradespeople, with the keen-sigh tedness 
 ever attendant upon those engaged in the pursuits 
 of traffic, foreseeing the rising greatness of the 
 new town, are gradually leaving Lahore, and re- 
 moving to it; and as all the valuable shawls and 
 other fine fabrics of Cashmire have also been trans- 
 ferred to the mart there, the commercial impor- 
 tance of the metropolis is much inferior to what 
 it once was. Still it is considerable, and amongst 
 a population of from 80 to 100,000 persons, whose 
 pride and vanity consist in the fineness of their 
 apparel and beauty of their ornaments, it may 
 
LAHORE. 115 
 
 readily be supposed a thriving business is driven 
 in silks, jewellery, and such like articles. During 
 our sojourn here, very excellent descriptions 
 of the former were brought to our camp and 
 oflfered for sale at one rupee ten annas to two 
 rupees* per yard ; and though the colours, gener- 
 ally speaking, are rather bright and gaudy, yet 
 there is something attractive about them, and they 
 are admired even by our own fair countrywomen 
 than whom who can be better judges on subjects 
 relating to dress ? Silk strings for sleeping trou- 
 sers sell for their weight in silver, and are cele- 
 brated all over India. Pattoo, such as we can 
 buy in our provinces for twenty-four to twenty- 
 six rupees a piece, is to be had here for sixteen 
 or eighteen, and coarse blankets of a strong tex- 
 ture for a mere trifle. Paper inkstands, inscribed 
 with sentences from the Koran, and lackered 
 over in the manner practised at Banilly, are well 
 made, and fetch from one to five rupees, according 
 to the size and style of the article. Ear-rings, 
 bangles, and other ornaments of jewellery are 
 worked uncommonly well, and the gold embroidery 
 
 * About 3*. 4d. to 4.?. 
 
\\Q LAHORE. 
 
 of Lahore equals that of Delhi. Ivory figures are 
 carved with care, but have a stiffness about them 
 assimilating closely to those produced on canvas, 
 and also a sameness in the design that detracts 
 much from their value. Wood, strange to say, 
 is not to be bought, nor could I ever get sufficient 
 for a small frame ; which appeared so extraordi- 
 nary that I concluded my sen^ant was either mis- 
 informing me, or had not made sufficient in- 
 quiries ; however, on asking the Maharajah's of- 
 ficers about it, they told me it was true, and that 
 Runjeet Singh will neither allow a tree to be 
 felled until it is actually required for use, nor 
 grass to be cut within twenty-four miles around 
 Lahore. The troop horses have consequently 
 been supplied with a sort of strawy stuff, that 
 contains little or no nourishment, as all the 
 " moth-bhoosse,"* to the extent of a lac of maunds, 
 (8,000,0001bs.) was consumed when the Governor- 
 General's camp was here last month. 
 
 Of the Maharajah's health we have had no ac- 
 counts to-day ; but it is not expected he can sur- 
 vive much longer, as numerous attacks of paralysis 
 
 * The chaff of a species of vetch. 
 
LAHORE. 117 
 
 have already brought him to the verge of the 
 grave. His constitution, naturally most robust, 
 is now sinking beneath the excesses of which he 
 has been guilty, and the quantity of spirituous 
 liquors he has imbibed, even to later days, (for 
 he has now limited himself to six pice* weight in 
 the twenty-four hours,) has aided in the ruin of 
 his once iron-bound frame. His nobles, imitating 
 him in his depravities, have set an open example 
 of immorality in the court of Lahore, which has 
 been eagerly followed by his subjects, who have 
 carried their infamous orgies and impurities to a 
 height unknown, it is to be hoped, in other cities. 
 His son, Kurruck Sing, pronounced to be half- 
 witted, is heir to his kingdom, and will succeed 
 him without opposition, unless objected to by 
 Rajah Dhian Singh, f the most influential per- 
 son in the state, besides being prime minister 
 and possessor of an army numbering from 1^5,000 
 to 30,000 men, with a fine body of artillery. The 
 individual whose opinion perhaps has most weight 
 with Runjeet Singh, is the faqueer Azeemut-oo- 
 
 * A small copper coin. 
 
 t Murdered by Sirdar Ajeet Singh, in 1843. 
 
113 LAHORE. 
 
 deen, the physician, interpreter and general trans- 
 actor of his business. He has two brothers, also 
 faqueer, one the Governor of Lahore, the other 
 the Governor of Amritsir and of the Fort of 
 Govind-ghur, where the Maharajah keeps his 
 treasure. The other persons, whose names we 
 became familiar with, are Shere Singh,* a reputed 
 son of Runjeet's, who is a fine soldier, fond of 
 Europeans, and will even eat with them ; and Now- 
 ni-hal Singh, son to Kurruck Singh, a high-spirited 
 lad, about twenty years of age, and just appointed 
 commander-in-chief of the army, now on its way 
 to Peshawur. The Rajah Dhian Sing has also 
 two influential brothers, both noblemen possessing 
 large tracts of country, and almost as ambitious 
 as himself. 
 
 * The late Maharajah, who was murdered, in September 1843, 
 by Ajeet Singh. 
 
CHAPTER V. 
 
 FROM LAHORE TO RHOTAS. 
 
 February 23. We quitted Lahore this morn- 
 ing with feelings akin to regret, as there were 
 manj places in and around it worth seeing, which 
 the shortness of our time had compelled us to 
 leave unvisited ; and as our sojourn there had 
 been rendered very agreeable, through the kind 
 and polite attention shown to us by the Maha- 
 rajah's officers, to whom we, with the exception 
 of F., were perfect strangers. Having started 
 our baggage at an early hour, we recommenced 
 our march towards Peshawur at 8 a.m., passing 
 beneath the city walls, and subsequently crossing 
 a branch of the Ravie, just fordable and no more. 
 About a mile from this, we reached tbe river 
 itself, which was much swollen, running rapidly, 
 and above 400 yards broad. Here we found but 
 three boats to transport our troops, baggage. 
 
120 FROM LAHORE TO RHOTAS. 
 
 horses, and ordnance, and these were occupied by 
 a detachment of the Maharajah's horse artillery 
 on their way to join General Tezie Singh's en- 
 campment. They had two guns with them, both 
 brass six-pounders, highly polished and covered 
 with red cloth to preserve their brilliancy, a point 
 apparently of great consideration. The native 
 officer in charge allowed us freely to inspect them, 
 and pointed out on the breech of one a deep in- 
 dentation caused by a cannon-ball which struck 
 it when in action. They were not, however, much 
 to be commended, and the carriages and wheels 
 were infamously bad and rattled marvellously loud 
 when shaken. The ammunition-boxes, too, were 
 but indifferentlv constructed, and but ill calculated 
 to keep out water. Those of the limbers, in the 
 present instance, were filled with clothes, drink- 
 ing vessels, and such like things, instead of powder 
 and shot ; which necessary articles, from there 
 being no immediate want of them, were carried 
 in tumbrils drawn by bullocks. The majority of 
 the horses had crossed over, but the few remain- 
 ing on the bank were in good condition, and 
 seemed smart, active animals, though rather un- 
 
FROM LAHORE TO RHOTAS. J^l 
 
 dersized t of the harness, it can only be remarked 
 that any in a worse state, and still in use, cannot 
 be conceived, and the men were slovenly dressed, 
 filthily dirty, and appeared to be under little or 
 no control. 
 
 At the Ravie, we had a specimen of the manner 
 in which a Punjabee ferry is conducted, and where 
 anything but order and regularity was observed. 
 As soon as the artillery had finished with the 
 boats, a regular scuffle ensued for them, and of 
 course strength and might won the day; those 
 who had gained possession of them retaining it, 
 by thrashing unmercifully any individual who at- 
 tempted to enter the boat except of their own party. 
 One little fellow I observed making dexterous use 
 of a short thick stick, with which he belaboured 
 the heads and legs of those who being no acquaint- 
 ances of his endeavoured to secure a seat, and the 
 gentler sex, I am ashamed to say, were treated 
 in no better manner ; for those who got on board 
 (and many did) had, after receiving their portion 
 of thumps with the rest, to tumble in head fore- 
 most, or were dragged in by the feet or hands, 
 whichever limb was nearest to their friends, who 
 
 G 
 
122 FROM LAHORE TO RHOTAS. 
 
 had previously obtained a footing. Children, too, 
 were in danger of being crushed, and I understand 
 it is not a rare occurrence for two parties to draw 
 swords and have a regular set-to for the prece- 
 dence ; indeed, Foulkes mentioned that not long 
 ago, a man deliberately levelled his matchlock 
 and shot another who had disputed his right to 
 a passage. As it was not our wish to enter into 
 s(juabbles with the Punjabces, Ferris halted and 
 sent a message to the Governor of Lahore to say 
 he should remain where he was until the boats 
 were cleared for our use. In about an hour, 
 Noormahal, accompanied by General Tezie Singh, 
 came down and directed that they should be im- 
 mediately made over to us. On this being done, 
 we commenced transporting the ordnance, which, 
 with about thirty- horses, was crossed before 
 nightfall, and an encampment formed on the right 
 bank of the river, in an extremely pretty spot, 
 shaded with large trees, amongst which the grace- 
 ful date flourished, and with its feathery leaves 
 added much to the beauty of the scene. Close 
 to tbis wood, is a ** baraderie," erected on a piece 
 of ground which juts into the stream, and being 
 
FROM LAHORE TO RHOTAS. \Q^ 
 
 of two stories high, and constructed with some 
 pretensions to taste, looks extremely well from the 
 opposite side. A small party from the Maha- 
 rajah's regiment, and sixteen men from the com- 
 panies, afford protection to my camp during the 
 night, Ferris and Rattray remaining on the left 
 bank with the treasure. 
 
 24!th. We are obliged to halt to-day to admit 
 of the rest of the horses, the treasure and the 
 companies of the twentieth crossing the Ravie ; 
 and Rattray and I made use of the opportunity 
 thus afforded us to visit the celebrated mausoleum 
 erected over the remains of the Emperor Jehan- 
 guire. It was situated about a mile from our 
 camp, and occupies the centre of a large enclosed 
 garden, which we entered after passing beneath 
 a very fine gateway, in, however, so ruined a state 
 that the action of a few more monsoons will level 
 it with the ground. The garden is laid out in 
 the usual Eastern style, with a range of fountains 
 running down the centre, and broad terraces 
 separate it into compartments, now overrun with 
 a rapidly increasing jungle. The tomb itself re- 
 minded me much of the lower story of that at 
 
 G 2 
 
J04 FROM LAHORE TO RHOTAS. 
 
 Secundra over the great Akbar, being divided 
 into various rooms, where holy men in former 
 days read the Koran and performed religious 
 ceremonies in honour of the deceased ; but who 
 with the numerous attendants ever watchful to 
 preserve a perpetual flame suspended above the 
 emperor's tomb, have passed away without their 
 places being filled up ; and their deserted abodes 
 have now become the dwelling-places of bats and 
 pigeons, who are seldom disturbed, either by the in- 
 trusion of a devotee or the curiosity of a stranger. 
 A long and arched passage paved with marble, 
 arranged into ornamented circles and diamonds 
 by the insertion of valuable and various coloured 
 stones, led us to a small room, where in the centre 
 lies a sarcophagus of pure white marble richly 
 ornamented with flowers, composed of precious 
 stones so beautifully selected that the very colours 
 blend together with a harmony closely approxi- 
 mating to their originals in nature. Sentences 
 from the Koran in Arabic also aid in its embel- 
 lishment ; and the sepulchre, both in size and 
 shape, as well as in costly profusion and magnifi- 
 cence, is very similar to that over the emperor 
 
FROM LAHORE TO RHOTAS 1^5 
 
 Shah Jehan in the Taj Mahal at Agra, the most 
 sumptuous edifice perhaps ever reared to per- 
 petuate the memory of a deceased individual. 
 We ascended by a narrow and steep staircase to 
 the roof, w^hich is entirely paved with white marble 
 marked out like the passage into various devices, 
 and was formerly enclosed by a low balustrade of 
 the same material, now only remaining on one 
 side ; the rest having been removed by the Maha- 
 rajah to adorn his palace at Lahore and the temple 
 at Amritsir. Its surface measured seventy yards 
 square, and in the centre there is a raised " cha- 
 bootra" or platform fifty-four feet long and the 
 same in breadth. Marble minarets, with mosaic 
 work inserted at intervals in broad zig-zag lines, 
 rise from the corners of the building and are 
 divided into four stories, opposite to each of 
 which had once been balconies, now despoiled by 
 the same hand and for the same purpose as the 
 balustrade. Fifty -five steps led us to the summit 
 of one of these (which including the height of the 
 mausoleum would give an elevation of about 
 seventy feet) from whence we had an extensive 
 view of the surrounding country and of the city 
 
12Q FROM LAHORE TO RHOTAS. 
 
 of Lahore ; the large and populous, but dirty 
 town of Shahdera, so named from its proximity 
 to the tomb, being spread out beneath our feet. 
 
 Shah Jehan built this magnificent pile over the 
 ashes of his father, (as an atonement, it may be 
 presumed, for the numerous rebellions he had 
 fomented against him,) who died on his return 
 from Cashmire on the 9th of November, 1627, 
 aged fifty-eight years ; and opposite to it he erected 
 a smaller mausoleum in commemoration of the 
 wuzeer Aziph Jah, and connected with Jehan- 
 guire*s by a range of dervishes' habitations, once 
 the abode of piety and learning, now by a strange 
 perversion of their original use, converted into bar- 
 racks for Tezie Singh's soldiers, who are gener- 
 ally quartered here. The ruthless hand of the 
 despoiler has forestalled conquests due to time 
 alone, and the once gracefully swelling dome of 
 marble that protected the remains of a Mahomedan 
 noble has been shamefully removed to enrich the 
 Sikh shrine at Amritsir, leaving in its stead an 
 unsightly mass of brick-work, to remind one of 
 the uncivilized deeds perpetrated by the present 
 Maharajah. 
 
FROM LAHORE TO RHOTAS. J^T 
 
 February 25. Having received intimation that 
 the road in advance wsls in some parts completely 
 under water, and in others rendered extremely 
 heavy by the late rain, we could not commence 
 our march till daybreak, and for the same reason 
 were compelled to take a circuitous route to avoid 
 a stream, now quite impassable, that cuts the 
 direct road to Nungul, where we ought to have 
 halted. We were, therefore, directed to the vil- 
 lage of Bucka, where there is a bridge that spans 
 the turbulent river, and which cannot be less than 
 twenty miles from Shahdera ; we, consequently, 
 did not reach our tents till long past noon, the 
 companies with the treasure arriving about an 
 hour afterwards, much fatigued, and many of the 
 sepoys quite overcome by the long journey. Our 
 encampment, situated near the village, was almost 
 encircled by the river before passing beneath the 
 bridge a work attributed to Shah Duolut, and 
 which from its extent must be most useful in the 
 rainy season, though the water is now confined to 
 two or three of its arches, A total want of cul- 
 tivation was observable throughout the march, the 
 country being chiefly covered with a long swampy 
 
128 FROM LAHORE TO RHOTAS. 
 
 kind of grass that attains to the height of ten 
 feet ; and the villages we passed were neither nu- 
 merous nor of any size. In a small hovel, close 
 to our camp, the sepoys killed two "biskopras," 
 a species of lizard, of a dusky grey colour and 
 about eighteen inches long, which they asserted 
 to be poisonous. Our second set of tents did not 
 arrive till sunset, and our servants having been 
 exposed the whole day to the heat of the sun, 
 which was excessive, were thoroughly fagged and 
 fit for no work. Baba Luchmun Singh, who 
 accompanied us from the Sutledge to Lahore, is 
 again with us, and will continue to act as our 
 mehmindar until we overtake Colonel Wade. 
 
 26///. It was our intention to have halted 
 to-day at a village called Kammokie, but our 
 guide, who appeared to know nothing whatever 
 of the road, and who we afterwards learned 
 was an unfortunate travelling beggar, pounced 
 upon for the occasion, took us to Emminabad, a 
 large town built of burnt brick, and about eleven 
 miles from Bucka. This, as we are not far from 
 the direct road to Peshawur, does not much sig- 
 nify beyond the inconvenience we were put to 
 
FROM LAHORE TO RHOTAS 129 
 
 hy our advanced and breakfast tents having pro- 
 ceeded to Kammokee ; for as v^e had to despatcli 
 a man to recall the servants with them, it was 
 long past noon ere our morning repast was spread 
 before us. The road throughout was a succes- 
 sion of swamps, and in many parts so much under 
 water that we were compelled to leave it and 
 strike across the fields. At Emminabad, we en* 
 camped close to, and partly in a Mussulman bury- 
 ing-ground on the north side of the town, where 
 there are several pretty groves of trees. A Chu- 
 par, or mounted messenger, belonging to Colonel 
 Wade, joined us here, and will accompany us to 
 Peshawur. 
 
 February 21. We left Emminabad at daybreak, 
 and found the road for the first two miles a per- 
 fect lake, the water seldom being below the horses' 
 knees and oftener higher. It was afterwards, with 
 but few exceptions, very good the whole distance to 
 Gujranwala, where we halted and had our tents 
 pitched close to the late Sirdar Harri Singh's 
 fort, which contains his tomb and dwelling-house. 
 Within a few yards of our encampment, we had a 
 specimen of Eastern barbarity, in an individual 
 
 g3 
 
130 FROM LAHORE TO RHOTAS. 
 
 who was hanging by the heels to a tree, and who 
 Imd apparently been left to die in that dreadful 
 situation. He seemed to have been a man ad- 
 vanced in years, as his beard and hair were 
 grizzled ; but as he had been suspended about a 
 month, his features were not distinct, and ren- 
 dered less so through being mutilated by birds of 
 prey. The bystanders told us he had been thus 
 punished for murdering a child and stealing the 
 silver ornaments which encircled its ankles and 
 wrists ; if so, he deserved his death, but the 
 method employed to effect it could only emanate 
 from a most uncivilized nation. 
 
 In the evening, we walked to the fort and en- 
 tered it by a large and new, though not quite 
 finished gateway, called the " Muobut Khaneh," 
 or place where the state drums play. After pass- 
 ing through a second gateway, which brought us to 
 a garden, our attention was immediately arrested 
 by a ridiculous picture representing the battle of 
 Jamrood, in which Harri Singh lost his life. It 
 is painted on the back of an apartm.ent fitted up 
 with receptacles for lamps to illuminate the foun- 
 tains in its interior, and is about twelve feet long 
 
FROM LAHORE TO RHOTAS. 13J 
 
 by six feet in height. It is divided into two com- 
 pai'tments, the left side being devoted to the 
 exploits of Harri Singh's army, the other to those 
 of Akbar Khan, his antagonist's. The two upper 
 rows tell of the advance of cavalry regiments on 
 either side ; the next two, of the formidable array 
 of jinjalls carried on camels' backs, preceded by a 
 few horsemen, who have already come into action ; 
 the fifth, which is the centre one, displays the 
 valiant Harri Singh sumptuously clothed, and 
 seated on an elephant, with an attendant behind 
 holding a "chattah" over his head, the renowned 
 Akbar Khan being opposite to him, similarly 
 mounted and similarly attended. Below these, are 
 other squadrons of cavalry and camel sowars, of both 
 nations, facing each other; and the concluding 
 line is occupied by a detachment of Sikh infantry 
 marching in regular order to the sound of martial 
 music, with a gun in front blowing a party of Aff- 
 ghans into eternity. The whole skill of the artist 
 seems concentrated on this spot; for independent of 
 the grape-shot, which ajypear in multitude as the 
 stars of the firmament, he portrays v/ith dignified 
 ease and simplicity the muscular power of an Aff- 
 
122 FROM LAHORE TO RHOTAS. 
 
 glian, who is lifting his wounded comrade from the 
 ground with one hand, and that too with so little 
 apparent exertion as to be seemingly a matter of 
 ordinary occurrence with him. The same display 
 of strength is exhibited among the cavalry in one 
 of the upper rows, where a Sikh, with one stroke 
 of his scimitar, has severed a horse into two equal 
 portions, which, strange to say, in spite of the dis- 
 memberment, are capable of retaining the up- 
 rightness of their position ; and another, of the 
 same nation, has, by a clean sweep of his sabre, 
 cut off the head of an AfTghan, which is being re- 
 turned with the velocity of a bullet into the ranks 
 of his wondering countrymen, whose heads and 
 arms are flying off in every direction, and are 
 parted with by their owners with all possible in- 
 difference and utter disregard of their value, wliilst 
 the Sikhs are unscathed ! Nor ought the digni- 
 fied complacency and perfect goodhumour visible 
 in the countenances of the two chiefs, opposed to 
 each other in deadly conflict, to be overlooked ; 
 and it would be well if more civilized generals 
 were to display equal urbanity of manner and 
 coolness of demeanour when brought in such close 
 
FROM LAHORE TO RHOTAS. J 33 
 
 contact on similar occasions, and take example from 
 their behaviour, as depicted by the artist, whose 
 skill is only equalled by his impartiality ; inasmuch 
 as, though it is a notorious fact that the Sikhs 
 in the end were defeated, it is not so well known 
 that all the wounded and slain were on the side of 
 the victors. Such, however, we found it to be in 
 this panorama ; and it need not be added, that we 
 derived much amusement from the representation 
 of the battle of Jamrood, in which the really gal- 
 lant Harri Singh closed his career some two or three 
 years ago ; the Sikhs at first, from their numbers and 
 better discipline, gaining the day, but who, instead 
 of following up the victory, were observed by the 
 Affghans to disperse in search of plunder ; on 
 which they again returned to the charge, took 
 their enemies by surprise, drove them oiF the field, 
 and re-captured some ordnance which had been 
 taken from them. Harri Singh, indeed, refused 
 to quit his ground, and rallying around him a few 
 horsemen, with hardy spirits like his own, he 
 dashed into the midst of his foes and fell covered 
 with wounds. He was one of the best of Run- 
 jeet Singh's generals, and had risen with his mas- 
 
134 FROM LAHOrvE TO RHOTAS. 
 
 ter's fortune. His body was burnt not far from 
 the spot where he met his death, and the ashes 
 collected and transmitted to Gujranwala, where 
 they are deposited beneath a plain but neat tomb 
 in the garden surrounding his residence. 
 
 This latter is one of the prettiest Eastern houses 
 I have seen. It consists of three stories, each 
 containing a room about sixteen feet square, the 
 lower ones being enclosed by broad verandahs, and 
 below ground there is ^n apartment to retreat to 
 from the hot winds. A range of fountains extends 
 close to the entrance-front, and at the corners of 
 the " chabootra," on which the dwelling is erected, 
 are circular ornamented seats, which, when used, 
 are covered with silk carpets or Cashmire shawls. 
 At the top of the second and third stories, similar 
 conveniences are also constructed, those of tlie 
 latter being made after the model of a lotus flower, 
 and the exterior of the elevation is covered with 
 the finest chunam, free from any of those tawdry 
 embellishments natives are so apt to consider as 
 ornamental to their abodes. We could only gain 
 admittance to the lower apartment, as the indi- 
 vidual who had charge of the keys had gone to 
 
FROM LAHORE TO RKOTAS, I35 
 
 the city : and the circumstance was to be regretted, 
 as we were told the second story is very beauti- 
 fully fitted up, whilst that we entered had nothing 
 particularly attractive about it. The garden is 
 laid out in rather a pretty manner, and, in addition 
 to some very fine cypress-trees, can boast of two 
 or three large vineries. We were shown the 
 " devta ke mukam," or abode of the idol, which is 
 situated at some distance from the house and close 
 to a reservoir by which the fountains are supplied 
 with water. It is a small domed temple, built 
 upon a chabootra, in an enclosed area. A flight 
 of three steps leads to it, and immediately on the 
 right of the entrance is the image of a bull in a 
 sitting posture, the hump of which our guide 
 touched and salaamed to with great reverence. 
 On the door of the temple being thrown open, I 
 could not help feeling disgusted at the idea of the 
 glorious Deity being represented by nine oval 
 stones, kept constantly moistened by means of 
 water dripping through an aperture in an earthen 
 pot suspended above them, to which the sepoys who 
 accompanied us commenced praying. When will 
 men cease to worship the work of their own hands ? 
 
236 FROM LAHORE TO R HOT AS. 
 
 It was now getting late, and as we had satisfied 
 our curiosity as far as we could, we quitted the fort. 
 Outside, but close to the " Nuobat Khaneh," stands 
 a low range of buildings, with Venetian blinds, 
 which we were at a loss to guess the use of I 
 averring it must be the cook-room, and F. that it 
 was a royal pig- sty ! On going up to it, however, 
 a suppressed growl informed us we were mistaken, 
 being no other than the place in which Harri Singh 
 kept his tigers. One was all that remained out of 
 four ; and he, though a handsome animal, was not 
 particularly large, and had only been in captivity 
 two years. A piece of string was all that fastened 
 a by no means strong doorway, but the animal 
 was quiet, and allowed us to gaze at him without 
 taking offence : a goat is his daily portion of food. 
 
 Gujranwala is a large and apparently an in- 
 creasing town, and is celebrated as the birth-place 
 of Runjeet Singh, and his ancestors. His father, 
 Maha Singh, and his mother are both buried in its 
 environs, but we did not see their tombs, as they 
 are situated at some distance from our camp, and 
 at the opposite side of the town. 
 
 February 28. Reports having reached us late 
 
FROM LAHORE TO RHOTAS. Jg^ 
 
 last night that the hackeries, with the troopers' bag- 
 gage, had broken down, and could proceed no 
 farther, a number of camels were sent to fetch it ; 
 and, that no delay might ensue, the jemadar of 
 Gujranwala was directed to furnish carts, to be in 
 readiness early on the following day. Morning, 
 however, dawned before the camels returned, and 
 as the carts were not forthcoming for some hours 
 after, our march was postponed till the afternoon, 
 and I took advantage of the delay to pay Harri 
 Singh's villa another visit, in hopes of seeing the 
 upper apartment. Nor was I disappointed ; and the 
 harmonious manner in which the gilding and 
 colours are blended, the elegant arrangements of 
 the ornaments on the ceiling, and the richness of 
 the chamber throughout, deserved the encomiums 
 we had heard lavished on it. In recesses formed 
 beneath a series of Saracenic arches, are a number 
 of glazed paintings on a small scale, and, omitting 
 the perspective, by no means badly executed. 
 Some of these related to their gods, others to the 
 haram, and the latter, as may be supposed, were by 
 no means most decorous in their description. As 
 several of them have been entirely removed, and 
 
138 FROM LAHORE TO RHOTAS. 
 
 many glasses of others are cracked, we asked our 
 guide for an explanation ; and he replied that the 
 apartment belonged exclusively to the fair daugh- 
 ters of Eve, who on one occasion had quarrelled 
 amongst themselves, and to settle their differences 
 had resorted to the feminine weapon of slippers, 
 which they heroically flung at each other's heads, 
 and thus caused the destruction apparent in the 
 late Sirdar's property. 
 
 On our return to camp, a respectable and intel- 
 ligent Sikh offered his services to pilot us to the 
 ** Sirkani Bagh," where the remains of Runjeet 
 Singh's father and mother are interred. As it 
 still wanted some time before we should march, 
 Rattray and I accepted them, and on our way 
 thither found our guide particularly inquisitive as 
 to the strength of our army ; whether we thought 
 it was capable of contending with the Maharajah's ; 
 the number of our guns, and other questions of a 
 similar tendency. We were hardly repaid for our 
 walk, as there is nothing particular about the 
 tombs of Runjeet's ancestors, which are close toge- 
 ther, and under separate roofs ; but a large and 
 circular, though unfinished building stands near 
 
FROM LAHORE TO RHOTAS. ^39 
 
 them, and is interesting, as our informant told us 
 the Maharajah is having it erected for his own 
 mausoleum, and that at his death he will be buried 
 here : it is, however, for so great a man, a poor 
 monument when compared with the Taj Mahal at 
 Agra, or even Jehanguire's tomb at Shahdera. A 
 " baraderie," or summer-house, covered with 
 paintings in bad taste, and but indifferently exe- 
 cuted, is erected in the centre of the garden, which 
 is large, but very inferior to Harri Singh's, though 
 it can boast of a few good trees. 
 
 We reached camp at half- past twelve, and soon 
 after commenced our march ; the road, which 
 was excellent, leading us through a profusion of 
 cultivation in a forward and thriving state, and the 
 horizon being bounded by a magnificent view of 
 the snowy Hindoo Koosh, only forty koss distant 
 from our present halting-place, Nattih, which is a 
 mud and tolerably large village, built on a slight 
 elevation, and may be about nine miles from 
 Gujranwala. On one side of it, and close to the 
 road, is a deep excavation, some twenty-four feet 
 long by twelve in breadth, where the inhabitants 
 were busy stowing away their grain ; but on our 
 
14.0 FROM LAHORE TO RHOTAS. 
 
 arrival, which seemed to cause considerable sensa- 
 tion, they ceased their labours to gaze at us, and 
 the summits of the wall and houses were lined with 
 spectators. It is now, however, the usual recep- 
 tion we meet with on approaching any town, and 
 European faces are no doubt strange in this part 
 of the country. Our tents were pitched in a very 
 pretty spot, and we had everything comfortably 
 settled before sunset. 
 
 March 1. Two hours before dawn we were 
 again in the saddle, picking our way by the aid 
 of a pale moon, across which a few clouds would 
 every now and tlien lazily flit, and cast a dark 
 shadow over our road, by no means a continuation 
 of the excellent one which, yesterday, had called 
 forth our praises, but a succession of swamps, 
 equal in extent and difficulty to those on the 
 other side of Emminabad. As day approached, 
 the country gradually became more distinct, and 
 displayed to our view an extensive plain, covered 
 with long jungle grass and a hamlet or two here 
 and there in the distance. Before, however, we 
 reached Wuzeerabad, the villages had become 
 numerous, the jungle was cleared away, and fields 
 
FROM LAHORE TO RHOTAS. J^j 
 
 of young corn threw a cheerful aspect round the 
 neighbourhood. We passed beneath a lately-con- 
 structed and lofty gateway, covered, as usual, 
 with grotesque paintings of all descriptions, the 
 figures being nearly as large as life. The street 
 we traversed was broad, clean, and possessed of 
 some good houses, and is, I should say, a mile, 
 or not far short of it, in extent. A similarly 
 decorated gateway brought us out of the town, 
 and another adjacent to it, under which we also 
 passed, ^is even more highly embellished the 
 pictures being stuck as close to one another as 
 they can be put. In front of this was a small 
 encampment of the Maharajah's troops. Descend- 
 ing a slight eminence, we reached a branch of the 
 Chenab river, (the Ascesines,) which we forded, 
 and encamped on its right bank, on the same 
 spot occupied by Colonel Wade and his mission, 
 when here. 
 
 Immediately we halted I despatched one of the 
 chupars, or mounted messengers, (another of whom 
 had joined us this morning,) to request the at- 
 tendance of the Thannadar, from whom we hoped 
 to obtain camels, in lieu of the hackeries which 
 
142 FROM LAHORE TO RHOTAS. 
 
 have hitherto carried our men's baggage, and 
 which, from the miry state of the roads, can 
 scarcely be dragged along by the bullocks. In 
 about an hour he arrived, mounted on a handsome 
 roan horse, and seated in a green velvet saddle, 
 edged with gold embroidery. He dismounted to 
 pay his respects to our commanding officer, who 
 had, in the mean time, reached camp ; but no 
 sooner had his fiery courser been delivered to the 
 groom, than he broke loose, and dashed in amongst 
 my troopers, who, happily for the intru(^er, were 
 fatigued by the long and heavy march just con- 
 cluded, or they would have punished him for 
 his rashness. As it was, a few eager spirits 
 were anxious for the fray, and strove to break 
 from their pickets ; but the roan was secured 
 before any mischief was done ; though the Than- 
 nadar was too great a man to notice the trans- 
 action further than by casting his eye (for he had 
 but one) in the direction his steed had gone. 
 He was a well-dressed, fine-looking fellow, but 
 very haughty, and so little inclined to attend to 
 our wishes, that F. at last told him we should 
 remain at Wuzeerabad till the time the camels 
 
FROM LAHORE TO RHOTAS. J 43 
 
 were supplied. This nettled him, and he im- 
 pertinently replied, we might stay twenty days 
 if it was our pleasure ; though it was very appa- 
 rent he did not at all relish the idea. He was 
 dismissed with hut little ceremony, his hehaviour 
 being such as not to merit any ; and he retired, 
 surrounded by his train of matchlockmen and 
 attendants, in the same order that he came. 
 
 Soon after he had gone, a procession of a very 
 different nature occupied the scene being a fune- 
 ral train bearing the corpse of a young woman to 
 the banks of the river, where it was to be burned. 
 The body, wrapped in an orange-coloured piece 
 of cloth, was placed on a " charpaee,"* carried by 
 men and a few, also, of the male sex occupied 
 the station of our chief mourners, behind whom 
 the women dressed in white, but not of the purest 
 colour, ranged two by two, and followed chanting 
 a dirge. For the completion of the ceremonies 
 they chose a spot not far from our camp ; where, 
 having heaped some logs one upon another, the 
 body was placed on them, and then more wood 
 piled on it. The pyre was soon after set fire to ; 
 
 * A sort of light bedstead. 
 
144 FROM LAHORE TO RHOTAS. 
 
 on which the mourners commenced to screech and 
 beat one another at a measured time this ceas- 
 ing, and continuing at intervals, until the corpse 
 was entirely consumed. 
 
 As this was the principal day of the Hoolie 
 festival, the Hindoos in the detachment, and those 
 in the companies were, as is their custom, flinging 
 a red powder upon every one they met, and 
 nothing would satisfy the native officers until 
 they had bestowed on us a sprinkling, which, 
 however, we insisted should be ver}^ slight. My 
 own men, I thought, acted in a more refined 
 manner, as they each brought a rupee or two 
 on a clean napkin, which they presented as a 
 nuzzur, and with the compliment of which we 
 were contented ; though I could not help fancying 
 some of the money did double and even treble 
 duty. 
 
 During the rainy season, the Chenab must be a 
 most noble river, flowing in a channel from a mile 
 and a half to two miles in breadth, sweeping over 
 the belt of land on which we are encamped, and 
 reaching up to the ver}^ walls of Wuzeerabad, a 
 town of some size and extent, and possessing 
 
FROM LAHORE TO RHOTAS. J 45 
 
 several large buildings ; amongst others a lofty 
 house belonging to General Avitabile, commanding 
 very fine views of the country, that to the north 
 being backed by the Snowy Mountains. 
 
 March 2nd. Our suspicions were right ; the 
 Thannadar's welcome to stay twenty days at Wu- 
 zeerabad was not given with the cordiality such a 
 long invitation demanded, and we were therefore 
 not very much surprised to hear that the camels 
 had arrived during the night, and that we could 
 now prosecute our journey without being delayed. 
 Our departure, however, was not wholly unat- 
 tended with sorrow, for on awakening this morning, 
 R. was much grieved to see a favourite spaniel he 
 had brought with him, lying at the foot of his bed 
 dead and cold, although he was frisking about in 
 the tent when his master went to rest. Being the 
 only dog in camp we had all become attached to it, 
 and we buried it near the ashes of the woman who 
 was burnt yesterday, and not without strong sus- 
 picions that poison was used to remove him. 
 
 At half-past eight we resumed our march, and 
 for three quarters of a mile the horses had to drag 
 the ordnance through a bank of heavy sand that 
 
 H 
 
146 FROM LAHORE TO RHOTAS. 
 
 tried their powers to the utmost. On reaching 
 the river not a boat was to be had, all being oc- 
 cupied by a detachment of Sikh troops crossing 
 with treasure. On their return, however, we got 
 possession of them, and, in the mean time, had 
 been busy preparing ghats to facilitate the trans- 
 port of our cattle. This was no easy job, as the 
 Chenab was running rapidly, and undermined our 
 labours as fast as they were completed. Many of 
 the horses, when about to spring into the boats, 
 sank with the sand as it gave way beneath them, 
 and were afterwards with much difficulty got on 
 board, being afraid to trust themselves again on 
 such insecure footing. One indeed twice jumped 
 overboard, and was only the third time secured 
 in the boat by his accidentally slipping on his 
 haunches, and being tied down in that position. 
 The camels even gave us more trouble, and threw 
 themselves into such ludicrous contortions to ex- 
 press their anger and disgust at being compelled 
 to embark, that on more occasions than one, all 
 hands were obliged to cease their exertions until 
 relieved of a hearty laugh. It was four p. m. be- 
 fore everything was landed on the right bank of 
 
FROM LAHORE TO RHOTAS. J^'jr 
 
 the river, now flowing in a bed about 600 yards 
 broad; and the sun was just dipping beneath the 
 horizon, when, after a march of ten miles, we 
 encamped on the northern side of Gujrat, a town 
 rapidly rising into importance, with a large bazaar 
 and handsome gateway in the course of con- 
 struction. 
 
 March 3rd. The excessive fatigue incurred 
 yesterday both by man and beast demanded a halt, 
 and as our next march is to be an unusually long 
 one, we remained at Gujrat to recruit for the 
 forthcoming labours, and enjoyed a day of rest. 
 We walked in the evening to a building a short 
 distance from our camp, and which, though un- 
 finished, is evidently intended for a shooting box, 
 as the majority of the pictures with which it is 
 embellished are representations of sporting feats ; 
 such as cock-fighting, hunting, wrestling, &c. ; 
 and are the only drawings on such subjects that I 
 have yet met with in the Punjab. A range of 
 stables occupies one side of a lately formed gar- 
 den, and contained forty of the Maharajah's horses, 
 all astonishingly fat, and some upwards of a foot 
 across the withers. Of course they are useless in 
 
 h2 
 
J48 FROM LAHORE TO RHOTAS. 
 
 their present state, and are merely kept for show ; 
 their disgusting condition being brought about by 
 chiefly feeding them with the hand, large balls of 
 coarse sugar and butter being crammed down the 
 throats of the steeds, who submit most willingly 
 to the operation, and are always ready to under- 
 go it. 
 
 March 4'th. The direct road to Peshawur 
 being impracticable for guns, on account of the 
 steepness of some ghats that cross a low range of 
 mountains, extending through the country, al- 
 most parallel with and not very far distant from 
 the river Jhelum ; we were obliged to take a more 
 circuitous road, which will eventually bring us 
 to a lower ridge, where the hills are more undu- 
 lating and less precipitous. Accordingly, a short 
 distance from Gujrat, we diverged to the left ; 
 and though we expected to have had a long march, 
 we little fancied it would ever have been the 
 extent it really proved to be. Twelve koss was 
 the distance marked in our route, and as a koss is a 
 measure varying from one and a quarter to upwards 
 of two miles, we thought we would hit the happy 
 medium, and calculated it at one and a half mile, 
 
FROM LAHORE TO RHOTAS. I49 
 
 its most general approximation. At the fifteenth 
 mile, a large village appeared directly ahead of 
 us, and as the sun was extremely warm, we mutu- 
 ally congratulated ourselves on the apparently 
 speedy termination of our labours, and pronounced 
 it to be not so long a march after all. As we 
 approached it, however, misgivings shot across 
 our minds, and the total absence of tents or 
 camels proved that we were either mistaken in 
 our calculations, or that our advanced camp had 
 inadvertently been taken to some other place. 
 A resident shortly put us to rights, by saying 
 Dingie was four koss further on, a piece of in- 
 formation we received with but little courtesy, as 
 we could only look forward to a tremendous gril- 
 ling, and which might have been so easily avoided, 
 had we known of the existence of this village ; 
 but we had been told all was barren to Dingie. 
 There was now no help for it, and on we pro- 
 ceeded, very soon entering an extensive jungle of 
 the dhak tree, whose knotted trunks and tangled 
 roots were ranged on either side of our track; 
 but whose branches being almost denuded of 
 leaves afforded us little or no shade, and seemed 
 
 \ 
 
150 FROM LAHORE TO RHOTAS. 
 
 to mock US with their presence. Midway we 
 came to a " baoli," or covered well, one of those 
 constructions that do honour to the pious feelings 
 of individuals who have been thus led to bestow 
 their wealth for the general benefit of their fellow 
 creatures ; the weary find repose under its arches 
 and refreshment in its waters. We halted and 
 refreshed also, descending eighty steps to reach 
 the surface of the well, where there is a small 
 apartment for the pilgrim to cook liis meal, which 
 obviates the necessity of his ascending for that 
 purpose. In a few minutes, we resumed our 
 journey, and after a march of twenty-three miles 
 eventually reached the long-wished for town of 
 Dingie. 
 
 As we approached it, our attention was called 
 to a small crowd, principally of women and chil- 
 dren, and on riding up to see the cause of their 
 assembling, perceived in the midst of them a man 
 stretched on the ground at full length, who had, 
 half an hour before, been deprived of both his 
 hands, as a punishment for the crime of stealing. 
 A few quiverings about the muscles of his legs 
 were all that betokened he still existed ; but he 
 
FROM LAHORE TO RHOTAS. 15 1 
 
 was insensible, and no wonder, as he had bled 
 profusely, and he was thus being inhumanly left 
 to perish, as no one dared to assist him. The 
 block, a rude piece of wood, was lying by his 
 side ; but the hands had been carried off for the 
 purpose of being exposed near the spot where he 
 had committed the depredation. We consulted 
 about bringing him into camp, and I directed my 
 native doctor to do so ; but on attempting to re- 
 move the poor wretch, we were told the sentence 
 was the law of the land, and that we had no busi- 
 ness to interfere. This was true ; but we subse- 
 quently heard with much satisfaction, that a few 
 of his friends had secretly conveyed him away, 
 and that there is a chance of his life, as they would, 
 immediately they were able, insert his stumps into 
 boiling oil to allay the bleeding ; I fear, however, 
 the chance is but slight. 
 
 Two other executions, though unattended with 
 the barbarous mutilations above detailed, had taken 
 place at the same time ; but it will hardly be 
 credited that the punishment of death these un- 
 fortunate individuals suffered was awarded to them 
 for the crime of having killed a cow ! but such 
 
152 FROM LAHORE TO RHOTAS. 
 
 was the case ; and the deluded Sikhs consider the 
 blood they have just shed as called for to appease 
 the anger of their deity, insulted in its represen- 
 tative, a four-footed creature of the earth ! The 
 road led us nearly beneath a tree, on which the 
 body of one of the offenders was suspended, and 
 where it will remain as a warning to others, until 
 devoured by carrion birds, or it falls to pieces 
 under the influence of time ; the other was hanged 
 at the opposite side of the town. 
 
 With these scenes of horror around us, we did 
 not find the environs of Dingie very prepossessing, 
 and the town itself has nothing to boast of but 
 its size, being chiefly constructed of mud hovels, 
 promiscuously heaped together in a sort of ele- 
 gant confusion. We, however, visited the royal 
 stables, for the purpose of seeing the far-famed 
 " Leila," the horse Runjeet Singh waged an ex- 
 pensive war to gain possession of, and which, 
 when brought out for our inspection, rather dis- 
 appointed us. It was a speckled grey, and might 
 have looked handsome, had it been in proper 
 condition ; but it was overloaded with fat, filthily 
 dirty, and its heels, for want of paring and exer- 
 
FROM LAHORE TO RHOTAS. ^53 
 
 cise, SO excessively high, that it limped along with 
 much difficulty. One of a pair of " Dakhinies," 
 for which the Maharajah gave 9000 rupees, far 
 exceeded " Leila" in beauty ; but it was much 
 too grossly fed, and equally ill-attended to : the 
 other was dead. 
 
 Evening closed in v^thout bringing any tidings 
 of the soldiers' baggage ; but we were not kept 
 much longer in suspense, as a sepoy, who had 
 been sentry over it, made his appearance, and 
 reported that the surwans* had suddenly attacked 
 him in the jungles, tied his hands behind his 
 back, gagged him that he might not give the 
 alarm, and then tossing the loads from the backs 
 of the camels, had made off. At eight o'clock, 
 a similar report was made of those belonging to 
 my men ; but, as all this could not have happened 
 without gross neglect on the part of the sentries, 
 they are to be severely punished. The surwans 
 had evidently concocted the plan beforehand, and 
 it would not much surprise us to hear that our 
 friend, the Thannadar of Wuzeerabad, had given 
 them a hint before starting, and suggested the 
 
 * Camel-drivers. 
 
 h3 
 
154 FROM LAHORE TO RHOTAS. 
 
 depths of the jungle as a convenient spot to carry 
 their deed into execution, being at an agreeable 
 distance from his own jurisdiction. We shall, 
 in consequence of this, be obliged to halt to- 
 morrow ; but it is somewhat doubtful whether 
 we shall be able to procure either camels or carts, 
 in so short a time, from the neighbourhood of 
 Dingie. 
 
 March 5th, Late in the evening, as we were 
 about to despair of obtaining any camels, a long 
 string of them entered our camp, which had been 
 procured at a village some miles distant, through 
 the strenuous exertions of our mehmindar, Luch- 
 mun Singh. 
 
 March 6th, We left our ground at half-past 
 three, and, by the aid of a clear starlight morning, 
 picked our way in safety to the foot of a low 
 range of hills, which we reached at daybreak. 
 These hills appear to be divided into two chains ; 
 and a pass, three miles in length, with a road 
 tolerably free from stones, and not very steep, 
 conducted us across them, and eventually brought 
 us to the village of Kohar, where, however, we 
 did not halt, as the river Jhelum was only a mile 
 
FROM LAHORE TO RHOTAS. J 55 
 
 beyond it : we therefore pushed on to it. After 
 we had breakfasted, and the cattle had been fed, 
 we passed over to the right bank ; and as the 
 channel was not very broad, and we had several 
 boats sent down from a large town, about ten 
 miles distant, we got every thing transported in 
 less than three hours. The Jhelum is rich in 
 classical associations, being the Hydaspes of the 
 ancients, where the brave Porus unsuccessfully 
 combated the progress of Alexander the Great, 
 and on which the conqueror of the world em- 
 barked on his homeward return. Had time been 
 at our own disposal, we would gladly have dropped 
 down the current in search of the ruins of Nicaea, 
 as well as to have visited the extensive salt-mines 
 at Find Dadun Khan, from which Runjeet Singh 
 derives a large annual revenue. We were not 
 able to do this, but we enjoyed the luxury of a 
 bath in its clear stream, which, either from its 
 purity, or from having its source in the vale of 
 Cashmere, is sometimes styled the River of Para- 
 dise. Never dreaming of alligators, we were 
 delighted with our refreshing ablution ; but we 
 subsequently learned that, like other large rivers 
 
15G FROM LAHORE TO RHOTAS. 
 
 in India, it swarms with these tyrants of the deep. 
 Our camp was pitched on a tongue of land round 
 which the Jhelum silently flowed ; and in front 
 of it, and about four miles distant, a bold moun- 
 tain (a terminating ridge of the Salt Range) 
 majestically stood forth from the surrounding 
 plain. 
 
 March 7th. The four first miles of our day's 
 march were exceedingly heavy, the road being 
 confined to the dry and sandy bed of a nullah, 
 which we ascended till we passed the village of 
 Singhooe. Here we got on to firmer ground, and 
 it continued thus for seven or eight miles, when 
 we descended to the valley of the Kuhan. This 
 is very confined, steep hills bounding it on either 
 side, and the stream, though neither deep nor 
 rapid, yet indulges in such a sinuous course 
 that we were compelled to ford it several times. 
 Large boulder stones encumber its bed, and are 
 also abundantly strewed around in the valley, 
 which must be under water during the season of 
 the periodical rains. A sandy track was our road, 
 and being soft and yielding to the foot, the pull 
 for the horses was terrific. We shortly came in 
 
FROM LAHORE TO RHOTAS. J 57 
 
 sight of the far-famed fort of Rhotas, which, like 
 its namesake in Behar, was formerly used as a 
 Prison for state criminals. Our first glimpse of 
 it was very characteristic, and well calculated to 
 fill the mind with gloom, only one corner, form- 
 ing the centre of a dismal hollow, enclosed by 
 bleak and barren hills, being visible. Its wall is 
 in a ruined state, and so horribly blackened by 
 time that, had we not known otherwise, we should 
 have pronounced it to have been stained by the 
 action of fire ; and the surrounding cliffs, dark 
 almost as itself, hideously harmonized with the 
 whole. A narrow path led up to it; but being 
 impracticable for guns, we had to continue as- 
 cending the bed of the river. At length we 
 reached an opening in the hills, and a beautiful 
 view of an extensive plain, backed by lofty and 
 irregular mountains, was displayed to our sight. 
 We expected to have traversed this, but were 
 disappointed the bed of the stream, here closely 
 hugging the ridge, which turns suddenly to the 
 left, being still our course. 
 
 We had just come within hail of another face 
 of Rhotas, and were looking forward to a speedy 
 
158 PROM LAHORE TO RHOTAS. 
 
 termination of this toilsome march, when an un- 
 fortunate accident delayed us for a considerable 
 time longer. At this precise spot a bend occurs 
 in the river, which sweeping round with a more 
 rapid current than usual, had gradually washed 
 away the road, leaving a perpendicular bank about 
 a foot and a half in height, at the extremity 
 where it crossed the stream. Observing this, I 
 spurred my horse to a gallop, to see if it could 
 not be levelled ; and the troopers inconsiderately 
 concluding the movement to be a signal for them 
 to follow, set off at the same pace. Before I was 
 aware of this I had reached the other bank, and 
 on turning round, perceived it would be useless to 
 halt them. On they came, and the leading how- 
 itzer had just surmounted the difficulty, when 
 one of the pole-horses slipped, fell, and put a stop 
 to the impetus of the wagons closely following 
 in its wake. An extensive quicksand, unknown 
 to us, was spread beneath them, and in less than 
 ten seconds, three pieces of ordnance and five or 
 six horses, with their riders, were struggling in 
 the sand. For a moment the scene was fearful ; 
 but the men being, happily, uninjured, we easily 
 
FROM LAHORE TO RHOTAS. J 59 
 
 removed them from their uncomfortable position. 
 Jackets and boots were then instantly doffed, and 
 we set to work to cast loose the traces, by no 
 means an easy matter, as several of the horses had 
 fallen on them. At length it was effected, and 
 four of the steeds were got out without much 
 trouble ; the other two took more time, being in 
 rather perilous situations, and I was afraid neither 
 of them would be removed without receiving much 
 injury, if at all. One of these had been thrown 
 on his side, in a spot where the ground seemed to 
 be of the worst description, and was gradually 
 being drawn under ; the ridge-bone of his back 
 having already disappeared. A rope was, with 
 much difficulty, passed under him ; and, eventually, 
 he was hauled out by sheer strength. The other, 
 a pole-horse, had retained his upright position, but 
 its hinder legs had sunk so far that the animal was 
 resting on its belly. A rope was likewise slipped 
 under him, and in process of time he was pulled up. 
 We then proceeded to the ordnance, which, 
 with the exception of the howitzer, was extricated 
 without much exertion ; but this long resisted 
 our utmost and united efforts. One wheel had 
 
I go FROM LAHORE TO RHOTAS. 
 
 already sunk half way below the nave, and was 
 carefully ! feeling for a better bottom to rest on. 
 We hauled, but not the slightest upward movement 
 was apparent ; again our strength was applied 
 the result was the same ; again and again were 
 our struggles renewed, but to no effect ; and the 
 deceitful nature of the ground would not allow us 
 to remain more than a few seconds in one posi- 
 tion, so that our labours were cramped. At this 
 time a wagon belonging to the other section, 
 which brought up the rear of the treasure-party, 
 (the latter having taken the narrow path I before 
 alluded to,) rounded the base of the hills, and 
 directing them to cross the stream a little lower 
 down, a few more hands were available to assist 
 us. Extra drag-ropes were tacked on, and once 
 more we set our strength to the task. A long 
 pull, a strong pull, and a pull all together, 
 was the word, and after some time, a barely 
 perceptible motion was visible. I cheered. The 
 exertions were renewed ; every individual threw 
 the whole of his muscles into play ; and, at 
 last, out rolled the gun from its difficult posi- 
 tion ; the sand, in five seconds afterwards. 
 

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 CD 
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 Z 
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FROM LAHORE TO RHOTAS. JgJ 
 
 assuming the same treacherous appearance of 
 security as it did before we got on to it. Just 
 then the spare horses came up, and I had several 
 of them to replace those who had suffered most 
 on this occasion. A few hundred yards brought 
 us to our halting ground, directly opposite to the 
 fort, whose walls on this side are equally black 
 with those on the other, and its aspect as gloomy. 
 Numerous sepoys of the companies whom Ferris 
 had despatched to our assistance, as soon as he 
 heard of our disaster, returned with us, we having 
 met them as they were hastening to join us. 
 
 Rhotas is built on not the highest part of a long 
 ridge of hills, and why the spot was ever chosen 
 as a place of defence it is difficult to say, as in 
 many places it is commanded by neighbouring 
 heights ; but the wall, which is of stone, is strong, 
 and further defended by numerous bastions. The 
 road leading to the gateway is steep, and by no 
 means calculated for large horses, being nothing 
 more than a bad " puharrie" * track : however, up 
 we went ; and though there was a good deal of 
 stumbling over the smooth worn rock, and the 
 
 * Hill. 
 
1(52 FROM LAHORE TO RHOTAS. 
 
 gallant captain, a perfect Nimrod at riding, was, 
 nag and all, nearly falling over the precipice, we 
 managed to enter the fort in safety. Ascending 
 a paved causeway, inclosed on either side by lofty 
 walls, we passed beneath a second gateway, over 
 which is inserted a Persian inscription, cut in 
 white marble, purporting, I believe, to comme- 
 morate the founder. A decent-looking individual 
 having volunteered to show us the " lions" of the 
 place, we submitted ourselves to his guidance, 
 and he conducted us forthwith to the ruins of the 
 old palace, an edifice constructed of cream-coloured 
 stone, and looking airy and light, after the uni- 
 versal red material of which all public buildings 
 we have seen have hitherto been composed, unless 
 of marble. It is, however, very much dilapidated, 
 and on one side a complete ruin, the rooms being 
 wholly exposed to the influence of the weather; 
 but the other is more perfect, and being built on 
 the edge of a hill, forms a lofty and noble object, 
 and commands an extensive view of the surround- 
 ing country from its upper windows. Opposite 
 to it stands a gateway, which probably formed the 
 " Nuobat Khaneh," where the royal band played. 
 
FROM LAHORE TO RHOTAS. Jgg 
 
 Our attention was directed to the key-stone of its 
 arch, which has slipped from its position, and 
 appears as if it would momentarily topple to the 
 ground ; but our guide assured us it had been thus 
 for eighty years ; and a subsequent examination 
 convinced us that the entire left wing of the 
 building has sunk considerably below the level of 
 the right ; it may not improbably have been caused 
 by an earthquake. Crossing a bridge which spans 
 a ravine filled with brushwood and wild shrubs, 
 we were taken to the entrance in the southern 
 face of the fort, which is built of similar stone to 
 the palace, and being free from all tawdry orna- 
 ments, looks simple, chaste, and massive. Two 
 large balconied windows, elegantly and curiously 
 carved above and below, are on either side of the 
 archway, and a smaller one between these stands 
 out in bold relief from the plain surface of the 
 building, and forms a pleasing contrast to the 
 other unadorned parts. We then visited the city, 
 which is a miserable place, constructed entirely of 
 unburnt brick, and swarming with "kunchun- 
 nees," or nautch girls. A well of large circum- 
 
lg[. FROM LAHORE TO RHOTAS. 
 
 ference, but now choked and useless, is close to 
 the gateway at which we entered ; and near to it 
 is the commencement of a subterraneous passage, 
 which tradition asserts runs round the fortifica- 
 tions. We returned to camp descending through 
 a breach in the walls, in the expectation that it 
 would prove a better track than the one we first 
 encountered ; it did not, however, and much cau- 
 tion was requisite to keep our nags from falling. 
 On reaching the banks of the river, we passed 
 several buildings erected below the fort ; amongst 
 others, a large mosque, and a '* madressa," or 
 college ; and crossing the Kuhan, we, in a few 
 minutes, arrived at our tents. 
 
 The building of Rhotas was on this wise. After 
 Shah Shere had firmly seated himself on the 
 throne of Hindoostan, he conquered the Punjab 
 and issued orders for the chiefs to come and make 
 obeisance to him. They all did so ^vith the ex- 
 ception of Rai Sareeng, whose dominion extended 
 over the mountainous tract of country situated to 
 the west of the Jhelum, and his absence so ex- 
 asperated the emperor that he was heard to express 
 
FROM LAHORE TO RHOTAS. Jg^ 
 
 his determination "to throw such a wedge into 
 the breasts of the Kakurs that it should stick 
 there till the day of the resurrection." Having 
 obliged Rai Sareeng to submit, he proceeded to 
 put his threat into execution, by ordering a fortress 
 to be erected on the spur of a hill suitable for 
 the purpose, and which, when completed, was to 
 keep the surrounding tribes under subjection. 
 The superintendence of the work appears to have 
 been entrusted to one Toder Khuteri, who is said 
 to have represented that the Kakers, the inhabit- 
 ants of the country, " entertained such an aversion 
 to work for wages, that they had agreed amongst 
 themselves, upon oath, to expatriate every person 
 who should act contrary to it." Sheer Shah, in 
 answer, flatly told him, " that he should nowise 
 be allowed to give up that work, which he only 
 wished to do in consequence of his greediness for 
 gold." Toder, on the reception of this new com- 
 mand, fixed first a golden ashraf * as the price of 
 one stone, which paramount sum induced the Ka- 
 kers to flock to him; afterwards, a stone was paid 
 
 * A coin that varies from ^1 12s. to l 18s. in value 
 
\QQ FROM LAHORE TO RHOTAS. 
 
 with a rupee, and this pay gradually fell to five 
 tankas: thus the fortress of Rhotas was com- 
 pleted.* 
 
 * Vide Neamet Allah's History of the Affghans, translated 
 by Dr. Dorn. 
 
 I 
 
CHAPTER VI. 
 
 PROM RHOTAS TO PESHAWUR. 
 
 March 8th, We quitted Rhotas at daybreak, 
 and marched to Adriana, where our encampment 
 was formed on an acclivity overlooking and close 
 to the river Kuhan, whose bed for the most part 
 was the only road we had, and was very heavy and 
 sandy. The scenery throughout was pretty; the 
 neighbouring hills being generally covered with a 
 species of dwarf jungle- tree or stunted bushes ; and 
 the stream formed a delightful little rivulet that 
 rolled onwards with a gentle ripple as it washed 
 the stones impeding its progress, or, flowing be- 
 neath some huge rocks, settled into deep pools, 
 where it was hushed in the silence of repose. 
 
 March 9th. We marched to Buckrala through 
 scenery similar to that of yesterday's, except that 
 
jgg FROM RHOTAS TO PESHAWUR. 
 
 the hills were of a more lofty and wilder descrip- 
 tion. Our camp is on the spur of a hill sloping 
 down to the Kuhan, and the village is above and 
 at some distance from us. A few years ago, it 
 was the resort of a noted band of robbers, who 
 infested the pass, and committed such terrible de- 
 predations, that no one ventured to ascend it unless 
 in large bodies. Runjeet Singh very properly con- 
 sidered that the high road to Peshawur ought to 
 be rendered safe even for private individuals, and 
 issued orders to root out the marauders by fire and 
 sword ; but it was not until the village had three 
 times been burnt to the ground that the despera- 
 does were driven from their haunts, and the pass 
 considered free from all danger. A shorter road 
 from this to Rhotas strikes across the hills, but is 
 only fit for foot-passengers and camels. 
 
 March IQt/i. A little after sunset yesterday 
 evening it commenced to rain, falling for several 
 hours successively, and pouring down with a heavi- 
 ness I scarcely recollect to have witnessed before. 
 The Kuhan, which opposite to Buckrala had 
 dwindled to a slight and narrow brook, this morn- 
 ing was two or three feet deep and rolled down 
 
FROM RHOTAS TO PESHAWUR. IQg 
 
 with an impetuosity scarcely credible, its waters 
 discoloured by a red earthy matter washed from 
 the hills, and presenting a strong contrast to the 
 almost crystal purity it had possessed so shortly 
 before. As our route lies still up its bed, we 
 were compelled to halt ; and as the day was fine, 
 the cattle enjoyed the rest after the unusually 
 heavy marches. 
 
 About noon, a sudden disturbance arose in the 
 camp, and, on running out of my tent to ascertain 
 its cause, I perceived Rattray in the midst of the 
 Maharajah's soldiers endeavouring to allay the tu- 
 mult occasioned by one of Colonel Wade's Chu- 
 pars, a Mussulman, having grossly abused the 
 founder of the Sikh sect, Baba Nanick. The holy 
 man's followers resented this indignity so warmly 
 that they were nigh to slaying his defamer on 
 the spot, axes and hatchets being raised to murder 
 him ; and had not R. at once rushed to his rescue 
 the Chupar's life would have paid for the temerity 
 of his tongue. The Soobedar of the company 
 was immediately sent for and directed to punish 
 the men concerned in the affray, but in the even- 
 ing the almost victimized individual presented 
 
 I 
 
170 FROM RHOTAS TO PESHAWUR. 
 
 himself and sued for their forgiveness a request 
 he was no doubt led to make after the reception of 
 a douceur to hush up the matter. 
 
 March Wth, We started early this morning 
 and were prepared for a day of laborious toil, as 
 the crowning of the Bukrala pass was to form the 
 conclusion of our march. The river had gradually 
 subsided during the night to very nearly its 
 former stillness ; but the narrow valley bore in- 
 dications of its late violence ; the long reeds that 
 had sprung up in it wherever they could find 
 sufficient nurture, being levelled with the ground, 
 and partially covered with a viscous deposit of red 
 mould brought down from the hills. We had 
 liitherto been in some measure indebted to the 
 marks left by cart-wheels for the correctness of 
 our road ; these had now been entirely obliterated, 
 and we therefore submitted ourselves to the entire 
 guidance of a villager ; but the greatest evil 
 arising from the rain was the numberless and 
 extensive quicksands, formed through its agency, 
 and which required extreme caution to avoid. We 
 had not proceeded very far from camp, when we 
 fell in with one of these, stretching from bank 
 
FROM RHOTAS TO PESHAWUR. J'^l 
 
 to bank, which would have stopped our fur- 
 ther progress, had there not been a sloping 
 rock that just allowed a passage for the ordnance 
 and no more ; still it was necessary to remove some 
 of the horses, and the pieces had to be dragged 
 across by manual labour. 
 
 As we ascended, the hills on either side became 
 more perpendicular, and the stream was confined 
 to a narrow channel obstructed by huge stones. 
 The farrier had been sent twenty yards in ad- 
 vance, to point out the situations of quicksands ; 
 but, when about half-way, I perceived him of a 
 sudden sink into one of them, out of which his 
 steed floundered with some difficulty. I followed, 
 and to avoid his error, took a direction more to 
 the right, where the ground appeared firmer ; but 
 I soon found I was not beyond its influence, for 
 my horse was immediately up to his knees, and 
 seeing the farrier's nag standing a little to the 
 left, he struggled, notwithstanding all my oppo- 
 sition, towards him, and thus led me into the very 
 spot my predecessor had occupied. Here he at once 
 sank up to his belly, and feeling his exertions relax 
 under me, I thought nothing but the drag-ropes 
 
 I 2 
 
IJC} FROM RHOTAS TO PESHAWUR 
 
 would have removed him from his critical position, 
 and was about to dismount, when, making a last and 
 strenuous effort, he succeeded in regaining terra 
 Jirma. The guns halted until the ground still further 
 to the right was pronounced practicable, when we 
 moved forward, and soon after, turning sharply 
 to the left, entered a defile filled with huge rocks. 
 Here not the most indistinct trace of a road was 
 to be seen, and we unanimously concluded we had 
 come the wrong way ; an opinion, however, 
 warmly combated by our guide, who assured us it 
 was erroneous. Nothing could therefore be done 
 but make a passage for the guns, and the sepoys 
 and troopers were soon busily at work with hand- 
 spikes, pickaxes, and fowrahs.* Having com- 
 pleted something of a clearance, we proceeded, but 
 were soon brought up by several huge rocks, too 
 large to be removed in the short time we had at 
 our disposal, or with the means at our command. 
 We consequently inclined to the right, where 
 there was a narrow passage, with an awkward 
 turning in the middle, and just the breadth of the 
 carriages ; but on one side it was overhung by an 
 
 * A sort of spade. 
 
FROM RHOTAS TO PESHAWUR. IJg 
 
 immense projecting rock, and on the other it was 
 obstructed by a fragment of stone about four feet 
 high. There was no alternative but to attempt 
 this ; and as the whole was on a steep slope, the 
 leading gun advanced to the trial at a smart 
 gallop ; the men ducking their heads as they 
 reached the overhanging rock, and the near wheels 
 rising high into the air, as they passed over the 
 stone on the left. 
 
 Success crowned the undertaking as far as re- 
 garded the first gun, but the second, by turning 
 too soon, stuck fast, and was, after the horses had 
 been takefi out, dragged across by main force ; 
 two others required the same process, but the rest 
 surmounted the obstacle. 
 
 Half a mile from this we reached the foot of 
 the ghat, which is cut in the side of a steep hill, 
 and may be about two furlongs in length, and 
 from eight to ten feet broad. The horses being 
 of no use here, were unharnessed, and drag-ropes 
 substituted ; a company of native infantry and the 
 Maharajah's sepoys being left to assist us up the 
 ascent. The latter soldiers we found equally 
 willing to work as our own ; but, in their careless 
 
174 FROM RHOTAS TO PESHAWUR. 
 
 manner, they more than once nearly allowed the 
 pieces entrusted to their care to topple over the 
 precipice, and, had they once got over, nothing 
 could have saved them from being utterly de- 
 stroyed, so lofty was the defile. 
 
 On crowning the ghat, a beautiful view of the 
 snowy range gradually rose to our sight, the fore- 
 ground being occupied by an extensive table-land, 
 wild and barren in the extreme. A cool breeze 
 blew from the mountains, and was grateful, as it 
 fanned our countenances, heated by the exertions 
 we had just undergone. The village of Dhamak, 
 where our tents were pitched, was still a mile 
 distant, and we reached it at three p. m., having 
 been eight hours and a half in accomplishing a 
 distance of about nine miles. Both man and 
 beast were thoroughly fatigued, and a quantity of 
 sweetmeats was served out to the sepoys, as they 
 had worked famously on this occasion. 
 
 March I2th. We left Dliamak at the usual 
 early hour, and for some distance travelled along a 
 finn road, free from any obstructions, and a de- 
 lightful change after the sandy and stony track at 
 the bed of the Buckrala river. Suddenly, how- 
 
FROM RHOTAS TO PESHAWUR. J 75 
 
 ever, it descended through a series of ravines, 
 where it became execrably bad, and in parts so 
 steep that the horses had several times to be 
 removed, and the ordnance to be dragged up by 
 the sepoys. We halted at Pakke a miserable 
 collection of huts, situated close to a caravanserai 
 with walls as black as the fort of Rhotas, and not 
 far distant from a small stream that runs in front 
 of our encampment. 
 
 March \Sth, We marched this morning about 
 nine miles, over a country similar to that of yes- 
 terday, to Jihliara, a village consisting of some 
 half-dozen wretched hovels, surrounded by a few 
 blighted trees. Our tents were pitched by the 
 side of a clear and murmuring brook with a lofty 
 cliff behind, and a gentle ascent in front, leading 
 to an extensive plain. 
 
 March lA^th, A little before daybreak we left 
 Jihliara, and in about an hour reached the top 
 of Manikyala, a large building, supposed to have 
 been erected by Alexander or one of his suc- 
 cessors. It is constructed in a circular shape, of 
 large blocks of stone, but has no entrance. 
 General Ventura, some years ago, dug into the 
 
176 FROM RHOTAS TO PESHAWUR. 
 
 top, and had his exertions rewarded by discover- 
 ing a shaft, which he descended by aid of a 
 rope, and, on excavating the bottom of it, found 
 an urn and some Grecian coins. Quitting Mani- 
 kyala, we had an excellent, though winding road, 
 to Rawut-ke-serai, a large building, rapidly 
 falling to decay, but still forming a very pretty 
 object. Leaving it, we commenced a gradual 
 descent, and passed some very extraordinary shaped 
 rocks, which appear as if they had been smoothed 
 and stained by the action of water, but there is 
 no river in their vicinity sufficiently large to 
 favour the supposition. The scenery on either 
 side of us was now extremely beautiful the 
 distance being bounded by low ranges of moun- 
 tains, clothed with woods, and softened to our 
 view through the medium of a transparently blue 
 atmosphere : the intermediate country was thrown 
 up into isolated hills, and the ground nearer to 
 us broken into irregularities by huge rocks 
 boldly starting from the green slope on which 
 we stood, and down which our road was to be 
 traced, eventually losing itself in a jungle far 
 below us. One of the detached eminences, sur- 
 
PROM RHOTAS TO PESHAWUR. J'^'^ 
 
 mounted by a castle, was pointed out to us by 
 Luchman Singh as a spot which Runjeet Singh 
 had much difficulty in making himself master of ; 
 and the whole country around is reported to be 
 infested with marauding tribes. 
 
 After descending about two miles, we entered 
 the bed of a nullah, filled with large round stones, 
 over which the guns were dragged with much 
 exertion, and following its course, we were, in 
 due time, brought to the river Suhan, on whose 
 banks we encamped, not far from the village of 
 Hurmook. Our position is now encircled by hills, 
 and the sparkhng river flows round them with a 
 gentle ripple, where it encounters any obstruction 
 in its progress. Like the Kahun, it can boast of 
 quicksands. 
 
 March 1 5th. It was our intention, yesterday, 
 to have halted at Rawut-ke-serai, but we moved 
 on to Hurmook, as we had been told there wtis 
 a difficult pass to surmount on the opposite bank 
 of the Suhan, and for the same reason we com- 
 menced our march this morning as early as it 
 was practicable. Following the windings of the 
 river for a mile, we forded it, and immediately 
 
 I 3 
 
178 FROM RHOTAS TO PESHAWUR. 
 
 after arrived at the foot of the defile, which was so 
 narrow and steep, and blocked up with such large 
 rocks, that we were obliged to unharness the 
 horses, and apply the drag-ropes to the guns. In 
 one or two places we had even to make the road, 
 and two hours and a half were consumed before 
 all the ordnance was hauled safely to the top of 
 this gully. From thence, however, we had a 
 capital road, only broken in a few places by in- 
 considerable ravines, until we reached Rawul 
 Pindee, a large town situated on a level plain, at 
 the foot of a range of mountains, some 4000 or 
 5000 feet in height. It once formed the confines 
 of the AfFghan dominions, and a spacious two- 
 storied house now the habitation of the chief 
 official still points out where Shah Shoojah 
 resided after he was driven from Peshawur. A 
 large and good Bazaar runs through the centre 
 of the city, and is stocked with grain and cloths, 
 the latter of which are to be had very cheap, as 
 are also blankets of a good description : but it 
 is narrow, and unfit for wheeled carriages, and 
 we had, in consequence, to go round it. Our 
 camp was formed by the side of a nullah, with 
 
PROM RHOTAS TO PESHAWUR. J -79 
 
 steep banks on either side, which we crossed, and 
 thus concluded a march of tolerably severe toil. 
 In the afternoon we had a storm of thunder, 
 lightning and rain, which was severe, and lasted 
 some time. On its clearing off a dark blue cloud 
 rested behind the mountains, and threw them 
 forward with so much prominence, that, seen as 
 they were through a pure atmosphere, they had 
 the appearance of being within a short distance 
 of our camp. In the evening we received a letter 
 from Colonel Wade, who was within a few marches 
 of Peshawur at the time he wrote, and who re^ 
 quested us to hasten our movements and join him 
 as quick as possible, as circumstances had obliged 
 him to move on. 
 
 March \Qth, Our road, this morning, was 
 almost parallel to the base of the mountains, 
 and about twelve miles distant from them ; occa- 
 sionally taking circuitous windings to avoid deep 
 ravines with which the plain is cut up, and pass- 
 ing through some very pretty woods of a low and 
 stunted tree, but sparingly covered with leaves. 
 We descended about midway to cross a slight 
 stream, where the track was bad, and the ascent 
 
18Q FROM RHOTAS TO PESHAWUR. 
 
 on the opposite side steep and difficult ; it was, 
 however, nothing to what we had met in the five 
 preceding marches. We encamped on the banks 
 of a rivulet, and not far from the village of Jani- 
 ke-sung, which is situated on a gentle eminence, 
 and has an old caravanserai close to it. 
 
 March \lth, About three o'clock this morn- 
 ing a shower of rain fell ; but it cleared off suffi- 
 ciently to admit of our marching a little after 
 daybreak. At starting, we missed a sepoy of 
 the 20th Native infantry, who, after a short search, 
 was discovered at the bottom of a dry well, into 
 which he had accidentally fallen ; but ropes having 
 been let down, he was soon got out, happily un- 
 injured. The road at first led us straight to the 
 foot of the mountain, and then turned suddenly 
 to the west, continuing in that direction until 
 we came to a gorge, which we crossed by a cause- 
 way, paved with broad flag stones, and very slip- 
 pery for the horses. This is called the Margulla 
 pass ; and as the surrounding country is notorious 
 for robbers, it is overlooked by a small guard- 
 house, erected by Runjeet Singh for the protec- 
 tion of travellers. Descending through a slight 
 
FROM RHOTAS TO PESHAWUR. Jgl 
 
 jungle of trees, and subsequently through some exe- 
 crable ravines, we passed over a bridge that spans 
 a small river, where beneath, and on either side of 
 its arches, the water is of considerable depth and 
 perfectly still. The bridge is roughly paved with 
 large boulder stones, and at either extremity 
 much worn and greatly out of repair. On the 
 opposite side, the ascent is steep and difficult, 
 but not very long, and its summit is on a level 
 with an extensive plain. As we emerged from 
 the ravines, we were considerably disgusted at 
 observing on our right hand a small tree with a few 
 forked branches connected together by means of 
 a cord, on which was strung a number of noses, 
 ears, and hands, lately cut off from thieves, who 
 had been carrying on their avocations in these 
 parts. Nothing approaching to timber was in 
 the neighbourhood, and the tree had been up- 
 rooted from some other place, inserted into the 
 ground here, and surrounded by thorns and bram- 
 bles, to prevent the jackals and wolves from get- 
 ting at these miserable remnants of humanity, hung 
 up as a terror to all future marauders. 
 
 For many miles beyond this, we had a road 
 
182 FROM RHOTAS TO PESHAWUR. 
 
 almost uninterruptedly level, passing on our left 
 a large caravanserai, and on our right a " baoli," 
 with 110 steps leading to the water. We after- 
 wards reached a low chain of hills, where there 
 are two roads, and unfortunately our guide con- 
 ducted us by the wrong one, because the shorter. 
 Several deep nullahs obstructed our progress on 
 this ; but we crossed them without accident, 
 though not vdthout considerable labour, and the 
 additional harassment, both to men and horses, 
 is to be regretted as it might so easily have 
 been avoided. A slight descent brought us to a 
 rapid stream, which we crossed, and skirting the 
 base of a lofty hill on our right, we, in half an 
 hour, came to Hassan Abdal, a tolerably large 
 town and still famous for its sanctity. It is, 
 however, composed merely of mud hovels, with 
 a temple or two of burnt brick; but it looks 
 pretty, as its neighbourhood is planted with large 
 pepul and mulberry trees, and a clear crystal 
 stream, which is shaded by them, imparts a cool- 
 ness to its aspect quite refreshing. 
 
 In the environs, an unadorned and by no means 
 elegant sepulchre stands in the centre of an en- 
 
FROM RHOTAS TO PESHAWUR. Jgg 
 
 closed piece of ground, and points out where the 
 remains of a celebrated dancing girl are interred. 
 A few cypress and other trees are close to it, 
 and a little beyond it is an eminence, on which 
 our camp was pitched, and which we entered with 
 no slight feelings of satisfaction, after a march 
 of sixteen miles, under a tolerably high tempe- 
 rature. Our tents were surrounded on every 
 side by hills, the nearest of which Rattray and 
 I ascended in the evening ; but we found it much 
 further off than we had anticipated, and had to 
 climb some 800 feet, ere we stood on its summit. 
 Here a small temple is erected, and is under 
 the surveillance of a Mussulman fakeer, who 
 watches it during the day and retires to the vil- 
 lage at night. A pile of sticks was heaped up 
 at one corner, and is collected for a fire that is 
 lighted every seventh day. From our elevated 
 situation, we had a most lovely view of the snowy 
 Hindoo Koosh, on the peaks and ridges of which 
 the setting sun was shedding a golden lustre, and 
 causing them to stand out in glittering and bril- 
 liant relief against the deep blue of a stormy- 
 looking cloud behind. On twilight approaching, 
 
1^4 FROM RHOTAS TO PESHAWUR. 
 
 we hastened back to camp, descending by a vil- 
 lanous goat track tliat led us occasionally across 
 the steep faces of precipitous rocks, on which 
 there was but very insecure footing, and where 
 a slip might have been attended with results fatal 
 to our future researches. We, however, reached 
 the bottom in safety, and proceeding along a 
 hollow, filled with low jungly shrubs, arrived at 
 our tents as it was getting perfectly dark. 
 
 I omitted to mention, that when about a mile 
 and a half from Hassan Abdal, we passed the 
 remains of an old garden, near the site of a neg- 
 lected town, called Wah, and which I have heard 
 is one of the prettiest spots in the Punjab. It 
 was, however, too far distant to visit after our long 
 march ; but the view of it we had from the temple 
 on the hill was not very striking ; a ruined build- 
 ing, in the centre of a complete wilderness, form- 
 ing its principal beauties. When on the road 
 between the caravanserai and the baoli, we ob- 
 served a broad blush of light, coloured with all 
 the tints of the rainbow, and stretched across a 
 large portion of the sky ; behind it were to be seen 
 distant hills, which assumed the same hues. It 
 
FROM RHOTAS TO PESHAWUR. 185 
 
 was a lovely sight, and continued visible for some 
 time. Hakim Gilani, a man celebrated for his 
 learning, and a friend of Acbar the Great, died, 
 and was buried here in 1588. 
 
 March ISth, We commenced our journey this 
 morning in a heavy rain, which gradually increas- 
 ing in strength, eventually obliged us to halt at 
 Burhan, a village about seven miles distant ; 
 the roads being rendered so slippery that camels 
 and horses were constantly falling, many of the 
 former receiving severe contusions. Our march 
 at first led us over a succession of undulating 
 hills, covered with a jungle of ber trees, the 
 narrow valley below being marked out into fields, 
 some in the act of being turned up by the plough, 
 others already green with the rising crops. We 
 then crossed a tolerably broad and rapid stream, 
 which must form a large river in the rainy season, 
 and subsequently several deep and awkward gul- 
 lies, the banks of which being of clay and very 
 steep were extremely difficult to pass. The rain 
 poured heavily all day, and towards evening the 
 wind commenced to blow furiously. 
 
 \9th. The gale increased last night to a regular 
 
IgQ FROM RHOTAS TO PESHAWUR. 
 
 hurricane, during which one of my tents was 
 blown to the ground, and the other with difficulty 
 kept up. A p^l, belonging to the sepoys of the 
 ^Oth native infantry, shared the same fate, as did 
 that of my gun Lascars, and the poor fellows' bed- 
 ding and clothes got thoroughly soaked. The wind 
 moderated during the morning, but the rain con- 
 tinued to fall heavily till four o'clock, p.m., when 
 it blew off, and this evening a streak of blue sky 
 foretels a fine day to-morrow, 
 
 March 20fh. Still at Burhan. Though this is a 
 beautiful day, and the country around looks fresh 
 and cheerful after the late storm, four camels died 
 from the severity of the weather during the night, 
 and one of my best horses was taken ill, but 
 by copious bleeding and other treatment being 
 adopted at once, he promises to get over it. 
 There is nothing to be seen at Burhan, but 
 Rattray and I were tempted by the fairness of 
 the afternoon to walk to some low hills about two 
 miles distant, and which are cut up into extra- 
 ordinary shapes. Unknown to us their neigh- 
 bourhood is notorious for robbers ; and when we 
 returned to camp, our mehmindar expressed his 
 
FROM RHOTAS TO PESHAWUR. jgy 
 
 surprise at our rashness, and censured us for 
 moving about without either arms or attendants. 
 
 March 21st. Still detained here in consequence 
 of the river Arar being so swollen by the late 
 rain as to be quite impassable. Captain F. and I 
 (this time attended by a small escort) rode in the 
 evening to see it, and found it, though not very 
 broad, five feet deep, and rolling along impetu- 
 ously. Several men who attempted to ford it 
 were occasionally obliged to swim a few strokes, 
 and were carried down the stream for some distance 
 ere gaining the other bank. Amongst others, we 
 witnessed the passage of three individuals who, 
 for better security, came over together grasping 
 each other's hands, the strongest bearing on his 
 head their clothes wrapped up in a blanket. They 
 had just succeeded in reaching the opposite side, 
 when suddenly they stumbled into a hole, and, 
 for a moment, disappeared vdth their bundle 
 under water; recovering themselves, however, 
 with much alacrity, they scrambled on to dry 
 land, but had the mortification to find their pre- 
 cautions were of no avail, as their apparel was 
 completely soaked through and unfit to wear. 
 
Igg FROM R HOT AS TO PESHaWUR. 
 
 We were convinced there was no hope of our 
 being able to ford the river before to-morrow 
 afternoon, at the earliest ; so, placing a few stones 
 at the water's edge to mark its decrease, we re- 
 turned to camp, which was about three miles dis- 
 tant; the road for one-third of the way passing 
 through stony and narrow ravines, in which there 
 are some curious mounds worthy of a closer in- 
 spection than we were able to give them. 
 
 March 22nd, We struck camp to-day at twelve 
 o'clock, and proceeded to the river Arar, with the 
 intention of halting on its banks, should the stream 
 have been still too swollen to admit of our cross- 
 ing it. We found, however, that it had subsided 
 considerably during the night, though it was still 
 running rapidly and more than three feet deep. 
 Our mehmindar had been actively employed all 
 the morning in obtaining Coolies from the neigli- 
 bouring villages, to assist us across, and had suc- 
 ceeded in collecting about a hundred, who, on our 
 arrival, were busy transporting the baggage-camels, 
 which had been sent on ahead. The scene, con- 
 fined to the centre of a hollow, was, as may be 
 supposed, one of much confusion, and the bawling 
 
FROM RHOTAS TO PESHAWUR. JgQ 
 
 of villagers, the shouting of surwans, the neighing 
 of horses, and the groaning of camels, was noise 
 more than sufficient to disarrange the tympanum 
 of any well-regulated ear. The latter animals, as 
 is usual in such cases, from their dislike to water, 
 gave the most trouble ; and one unfortunate beast, 
 who had received considerable injury from falling, 
 on the morning we left Hassan Abdal, was almost 
 drowned, the force of the current having knocked 
 him down ; on which he commenced to roll over 
 and over, and, at times, disappeared altogether 
 beneath the water. The fellows in charge, however, 
 kept a firm hold of the leading rope, and after some 
 time were enabled to bring him out again on 
 the side he had entered from. He here remained 
 till the last, and was eventually crossed by strong 
 ropes being passed round his body, and some 
 twenty or thirty men supporting and dragging him 
 through the water by sheer force. To guard 
 against accidents the ammunition was removed 
 from the wagons and limbers, and passed over 
 on 'men's heads ; and well it was so, for the last 
 wagon got into a hole, and was, with the pole- 
 horses, for some seconds, entirely under water. 
 
190 FROM RHOTAS TO PESHAWUR. 
 
 No damage was done to the shells that remained 
 in them, and but one of the boxes was slightly 
 wetted in the interior ; sufficient, however, to have 
 spoiled the cartridges had they not been taken 
 out. We were detained at the river for nearly 
 three hours, and then ascending some ravines par- 
 tially clothed with jungle, reached an open plain ; 
 subsequently passing a Baoli, where we ought to 
 have halted, we encamped at a village about a mile 
 to the right of it, and which unnecessary dis- 
 tance we shall have to retrace to-morrow. 
 
 March 23rd. We marched at daybreak this 
 morning, and had an excellent road almost through- 
 out, bounded on one side by an extensive plain, 
 dotted here and there with villages surrounded 
 by cultivation ; and, on the other, by low hills that 
 gradually increased in height as we approached 
 Attock. Amongst other damage done by the 
 hurricane, we were not a little annoyed to hear 
 that its violence had swept away the bridge 
 of boats thrown across the Indus, and that the 
 road which led to it is rendered impassable by 
 deep fissures cutting through it in every direction. 
 With the mighty streams of the Punjab, we had 
 

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 LoJ 
 
 X 
 
FROM RHOTAS TO PESHAWUR. ig\ 
 
 been led to expect much labour and difficulty in 
 crossing them, and consequently grudged it not ; 
 but here we had looked forward to the reverse, 
 and our mortification was not a little increased to 
 learn that, independent of having to ferry over 
 this swiftest of rivers, there was a ghat to descend 
 in every respect worse than that of Buckrala, and 
 which would have been avoided had the road to 
 the bridge been left uninjured. At the termina- 
 tion of the plain, instead therefore of proceeding- 
 straight to its banks, we ascended an abrupt and 
 somewhat Alpine path, from whence the views on 
 every side are remarkably beautiful. The dis- 
 tance presents a succession of mountains, from the 
 highly elevated snowy peaks of Hindoo Koosh to 
 the more gentle undulations that bound the valley 
 of Peshawur. On the right is the extensive plain 
 of Chuch, covered with a bright green sward, and 
 intersected by numerous rivulets ; on the left, 
 (partly concealed by the ridge on which we stood), 
 the lofty and barren ridge of the Khuttuck range 
 in Affghanistan ; and, in front, the noble Indus, 
 now swollen by heavy rains, and split into various 
 branches, (one of which flowed beneath our feet,) 
 
192 FROM RHOTAS TO PESHAWUR. 
 
 was bounding onwards with resistless speed, its 
 clear waters, as they dashed against the rocks, 
 being lashed into foam and gleaming with silvery 
 brightness wherever touched by the sun's rays. 
 
 A sudden turn concealed these beauties from 
 our sight, and our attention was recalled to objects 
 nearer at hand, the road being execrably bad and 
 requiring pickaxes and shovels to remove the rocks 
 and stones with which it was encumbered. Our 
 tents were pitched on a ridge, in front of a forti- 
 fied serai, but we did not remain in them longer 
 than to despatch a hasty breakfast, as it was 
 necessary we should cross the river at once. The 
 governor of Attock, on being aj.plied to for assist- 
 ance, refused to give us any, nor would he allow 
 the infantry to march through the town, unless 
 their muskets were left outside the walls. Re- 
 garding this latter stipulation he was not to be 
 blamed, as he merely acted up to the orders of 
 his sovereign, in denying admittance to armed 
 parties ; but he was bound to facilitate our transit 
 across the ferry, which, instead of doing, he ap- 
 peared to throw every obstacle in our way, and 
 declined to issue an order that the boats should 
 
FROM RHOTAS TO PESHAWUR. J 93 
 
 be collected for our use. Captain F., of course, 
 would not accede to the request, (which annoyed 
 him excessively,) and preferred making a circuit 
 of the castle by a path little better than a goat- 
 track, over which he took the companies, with the 
 treasure, and all the horses, leaving the Maha- 
 rajah's troops to assist us with the ordnance. 
 
 A precipitous and rocky ravine, situated between 
 the fort and caravanserai, was the only passage by 
 which the guns could descend to the river ; and 
 worn as it was to a smooth surface by the action of 
 water, which had also rounded its more prominent 
 masses, it took us five hours of constant and hard 
 labour to lower them down to the ghat ; the 
 utmost care and strength being required to prevent 
 them from rolling over a steep declivity on the 
 right hand side. There were but three boats to 
 pass them across the river, and these were small, 
 and so much out of water as to render them but 
 little adapted for the transportation of artillery. 
 
 Nothing in the shape of a plank to run the wheels 
 
 
 
 upon was to be procured, and the men had to lift 
 the pieces a perpendicular height of from two 
 and a half to three feet, ere they were lowered 
 
194 FROM RHOTAS TO PESHAWUR. 
 
 on board ; each boat taking a gun or wagon and 
 its limber. Two trips were made, and I em- 
 barked in the last boat. We pushed off from the 
 ghat, formed on the edge of a narrow chan- 
 nel of the river and separated by a stony bank 
 from the main stream, which was flowing like 
 a sluice ; and once within its influence we were 
 carried down with great rapidity, in spite of every 
 exertion made by the united efforts of six rowers 
 and two steersmen, who struggled hard with their 
 oars and displayed much dexterity in avoiding the 
 huge rocks on either side, and on whicli, had the 
 boat once struck, nothing could have saved it 
 from being dashed to pieces. We reached the 
 opposite bank far below the spot on which we 
 wished to land ; but the " dandies," fastening a rope 
 to the prow of the vessel, jumped on shore and 
 towed us up to the ghat, two men remaining on 
 board to keep us off" the sharp crags that here jut 
 into the river and line the inhospitable-looking 
 country. Passing a small promontory, where the 
 current was stemmed witli much difficulty, we 
 were dragged into still water, and a short distance 
 above, where the land gradually shelved,we brought- 
 
FROM RHOTAS TO PESHAWUR. J 95 
 
 to a little before sunset, the boat being scarcely 
 allowed to touch the ground, when, leaping from 
 it, we stood in AfFghanistan. 
 
 Rattray, who passed through the town in com- 
 pany with the mehmindar, had crossed from the 
 lower ghat by the first opportunity, to super- 
 intend the landing of the treasure, &c., and to 
 form the new camp at Khyrabad ; and Ferris was 
 still busy below the castle in passing over the 
 baggage, horses and other cattle. He had been 
 but little better off than myself, as he could only 
 procure four boats, notwithstanding some twenty 
 others were lying within a stone's throw of him ; 
 but as the authorities would not compel the boat- 
 men to work, they were not forthcoming of their 
 own free-will, and the few at his command were 
 obtained through the instrumentality of Luchman 
 Singh, who, having seized a manjee, took off his 
 slipper and thrashed him until he roared again, 
 and agreed to bring as many individuals as were 
 under his control. 
 
 It was not until eight p. M. that everything was 
 transported to the right bank of the Indus, and 
 our camp assumed its usual appearance of regu- 
 
 k2 
 
196 FROM RHOTAS TO PESHAWUR. 
 
 larity and order. As we had left our last ground 
 at five A. M., we had laboured uninterruptedly for 
 fifteen hours, and it was with no slight appetites 
 we sat down, between nine and ten, to a hastily 
 concocted dinner, having tasted but little during 
 the day. Colonel Wade had sent us word, that 
 once in AfFghanistan, it would be necessary to 
 keep a stricter guard than usual over the treasure, 
 as the hills around swarm with a population who 
 act upon 
 
 '* the simple plan, 
 
 That they should take who have the power, 
 And they should keep who can." 
 
 An extra number of sentries have, in conse- 
 quence, been posted about the camp, and other 
 precautions taken to guard against a surprise. 
 
 March 2^th, A little rain fell towards the 
 early part of the morning, though not sufficient to 
 demand a halt ; but as the unfortunate prejudices 
 of our Hindoo sepoys had prevented their making 
 anything of a meal yesterday, we deferred our 
 march till the afternoon, to enable them, in some 
 measure, to make up the deficiency. The water 
 of the Indus being as its name, Attock, somewhat 
 
FROM RHOTAS TO PESHAWUR. jg^ 
 
 implies forbidden to them, they could not touch 
 it; speaking in contemptuous terms of its vil- 
 lanous bad qualities, and preferring to use that 
 from a small rivulet which had its source in the 
 hills surrounding our position Our tents at 
 Khyrabad were pitched about a quarter of a mile 
 from the village, and directly opposite to the fort 
 of Attock, which we quite overlooked ; and al- 
 though in some places it is defended by three 
 walls, pierced with several tiers of loop-holes for 
 musketry, and constructed of stone, it would soon 
 crumble beneath the fire of cannon. Peshawur 
 Singh, an adopted son of the Maharajah's, is the 
 present governor ; but he is a young and silly 
 individual, and completely led by those around 
 him. He yesterday, in a very impertinent man- 
 ner, amused himself by rowing up and down the 
 river in front of the ghat, where Captain Ferris 
 was standing, and evidently with the intention of 
 insulting him by the act ; but as that officer 
 seemed to take no notice, either of his pompous 
 appearance, or of his ill-judged proceedings, the 
 youth was most probably disappointed. A report 
 of his conduct, and of his refusal to assist us with 
 
198 FROM RHOTAS TO PESHAWUR 
 
 boats, will, however, be made to Colonel Wade, 
 who, no doubt, will represent the matter to the 
 Maharajah. 
 
 At Khyrabad there is a mud fort, lately erected 
 by authority of Runjeet Singh, and the more 
 commanding positions of the neighbouring heights 
 are crowned with towers and castles. Almost 
 every individual, whom we have seen, has been 
 armed with sword and shield, or in some other 
 manner, and all around bespeaks the unsettled 
 state of the country and its population. 
 
 We walked to the banks of the Indus to see its 
 junction with the Cabul river, a stream of equal 
 breadth with itself, but inferior in volume. At 
 their confluence the water was lashed into a sea 
 of breakers, dashing over rocks and whirling in 
 tremendous eddies, suflicient to have swamped a 
 tolerably large boat ; but the scene, as it was 
 presented to our view, no doubt owed much of 
 its grandeur to the accumulated rain that had 
 fallen during our stay at Boorhan, and may be 
 very similar to what it assumes during the peri- 
 odical monsoons. Both the streams were con- 
 siderably swollen, and opposed strong contrasts 
 
FROM RHOTAS TO PESHAWUR. 199 
 
 to one another, the Indus being perfectly clear 
 and pure the Cdbul river, thick and muddy ; the 
 discoloured water of the latter being distinctly 
 traced for two or three hundred yards below the 
 spot where it flows into the Attock. We watched 
 this deeply interesting picture from some over- 
 hanging rocks, which bear on their surface such 
 a high state of polish, that they have the appear- 
 ance of being perfectly wet ; but it arises, I con- 
 jecture, from the constant trituration of the 
 sand, washed upon them during the rainy, seasons. 
 From the sharpness of their angles, and the 
 darkness of their hue, I concluded they were 
 composed of an extremely hard stone, but a few 
 blows from a stick easily separated a portion, the 
 fractures assuming regular shapes of a slaty 
 substance. 
 
 Our baggage having preceded us by an hour, 
 under a strong guard, to protect it from the pre- 
 datory tribes; we commenced our march in re- 
 gular order, the treasure being in the middle, and 
 a gun in front and rear, with lighted matches to 
 be ready for service at a moment's notice. A 
 mile brought us to the pass of Geedar Gullie, 
 
200 FROM RHOTAS TO PESHAWUR. 
 
 which is a defile, crossing over a spur from the 
 Khuttuck hills, and in two places very difficult 
 for wheeled carriages, being steep and encum- 
 bered with loose stones of some size. Its whole 
 extent may be from one and a half to two miles ; 
 and in the more exposed parts, Runjeet Singh has 
 erected a few castles, which are garrisoned by 
 troops stationed there for the purpose of securing 
 the pass as well as for the protection of travellers. 
 The scene was one of great wildness, and fraught 
 with excitement ; whilst the guards, armed with 
 long matchlocks, and perched on the extremity 
 of a jutting crag, paced to and fro on their ele- 
 vated and confined posts, and added much to the 
 picturesqueness of the effect. I forgot to men- 
 tion, that a horse-artillery jemadar of General 
 Court's, who had been sent from PeshWur to 
 assist in crossing the guns over the Indus, by 
 Colonel Wade, when he heard that the bridge of 
 boats had been carried away, joined us yesterday 
 evening, with two or three of his men, just after 
 we had concluded our hard day's work. He was 
 then quite drunk, and on one of his sepoys ask- 
 inc- him if he had given the purwunnah to the 
 
FROM RHOTAS TO PESHAWUR. OQl 
 
 captain, replied, *' Yes, you rogue !" and knocked 
 him down. To-day, however, he was perfectly 
 sober, and I found him useful in crossing the 
 Geedar Gullie. 
 
 After quitting it, we emerged on to a fine 
 champagne country, which, however, bears but 
 few marks of cultivation, a measure soon ex- 
 plained to us by the thousands of tombs spread 
 on every side. These are constructed with much 
 care, and particular attention seems to have been 
 paid to preserve their individuality, each grave 
 being marked out by a row of white pebbles, 
 encircling the mound, and crossed in its breadth 
 by two or three bands of the same ; beneath them 
 lie the bodies of countless numbers who have 
 fallen in battle, and the vastness of the collection 
 displays the bold spirit with which the AiFghans 
 opposed the encroachments of the Sikhs. Al- 
 though several years have elapsed since these 
 engagements occurred, the same spirit of ani- 
 mosity still exists between the two nations ; but 
 from the circumstance of the Maharajah having 
 obtained the entire ascendancy of the country^ 
 nothing beyond a solitary assassination is now 
 
 K 3 
 
0()2 FROM RHOTAS TO PESHAWUR. 
 
 heard of, unless when the hill tribes of the Khut- 
 tucks descend from their fastnesses, for the pur- 
 pose of plundering an escort, and then a partial 
 affray is sometimes brought about. 
 
 We continued our onward progress for two or 
 three miles, without meeting any interruption, 
 Rattray and myself being a little ahead of the 
 leading gun, when a distant trumpet arrested our 
 attention ; and on turning to the direction from 
 which it proceeded, we descried a party of horse- 
 men, who had been previously concealed from 
 our view by a slight intervening eminence, ad- 
 vancing down the road in front of us. Bearing 
 in mind Wade's instructions, that we were to be 
 on our guard against enemies, R. and I recon- 
 noitred ; but a few minutes sufficed to show us 
 it was a party of Runjeet Singh's horse artillery 
 returning to their cantonments, which we had left on 
 our right some short distance back. They, equally 
 mistrustful with ourselves, had stopped when we 
 iirst came in sight, and it was their trumpet sound- 
 ing the " halt," that had attracted our notice. 
 
 About half a mile from Acora, we met the 
 chief, a young man about twenty, dressed in 
 
FROM RHOTAS TO PESHAWUR. 203 
 
 white, with a scarlet chogah thrown over his shoul- 
 ders, and gold rings enriched with pearls depend- 
 ing from his ears, and who, attended by a large 
 train of servants, had ridden out to welcome us. 
 When within a few paces of Captain F., he dis- 
 mounted, and advancing, presented him with a 
 nuzzur of two rupees. On being told to remount, 
 he accompanied us to our encamping ground, 
 which we reached some time after sunset. Here, 
 too, we are in the midst of tombs, and indeed I 
 may safely call the whole country on either side 
 of the road, from the Geedar GuUie to Acora, an 
 extensive cemetery. At a place called Syddoo, 
 where a few large trees overhang a small collec- 
 tion of mud hovels, the sepulchres are number- 
 less ; and it was here General Court's jemadar 
 related that 8,000 Sikhs had made a successful 
 defence against 150,000 AfFghans! A partial 
 shower of rain fell after our arrival ; but on the 
 hills around, it seemed to be pouring in torrents. 
 Thousands of the cyrus, (a species of crane,) in 
 regular battle array, flew over our heads, and the 
 number of stragglers betokened that they had 
 come many a weary mile. At night, the sentries 
 
204 fROM RHOTAS TO PESHAWUR. 
 
 around camp were doubled, and I visited thein 
 at twelve o'clock to see that all were alert. Hap- 
 pily, there was a bright moon to guide me, as 
 the ground was full of large cavities, caused by 
 many of the graves having fallen in ; and I must 
 confess I should have felt somewhat uncomfort- 
 able had I pitched headlong into one of these 
 abodes, and found myself embraced by a moulder- 
 ing skeleton, or welcomed by a ghastly skull. ' 
 
 March 25th* The rain which fell yesterday 
 evening, though not very considerable, was suf- 
 ficient, in conjunction with a heavy dew, to soak 
 our tents, and we were again obliged to postpone our 
 march until mid- day. Meanwhile, the ** kamdar" 
 of Acora presented himself to inquire after our 
 wants, and to ascertain if he could be of any use to 
 us ; and the village musicians volunteered to amuse 
 us whilst our baggage was going on in advance. 
 This, however, as far as regards th^ harmony they 
 produced, was a complete failure, for a more dis- 
 cordant noise I was never compelled to listen to, 
 except at Chergaon in Kundwur, on the north- 
 em side of the Himalayahs, where the concerts 
 ore about par. A boy, too, habited in female 
 
PROM RHOTAS TO PESHAWUR. ^05 
 
 costume, by way of dancing endeavoured to throw 
 himself into graceful attitudes ; and if turning the 
 toes inwards, and the palms of the hands out- 
 wards, can be called such, we had plenty of them. 
 The Maharajah's sepoys, however, seemed to 
 enjoy the exhibition much, and one old fellow in 
 particular, whom I had been in the habit of 
 chatting ^vith on the road, was constantly vocife- 
 rating " Shahbash," " Shahbash !" '' Well done," 
 " bravo !" appealing to me at the same time, and 
 saying, " Sahib, razie hai ?" " Are you pleased, 
 sir ?" and adding, that the music was ** khoob 
 muzzur" or " very sweet." It was quite laughable 
 to observe the eagerness with which an old soldier 
 like him, with a grey beard, entered into such a 
 puerile amusement ; but a pair of twinkling eyes 
 that lighted up a somewhat handsome counten- 
 ance, plainly told, that, although age had made 
 inroads upon his frame, it had not entirely robbed 
 him of the spirit and vivacity of youth. 
 
 About ten o'clock, a detachment of Runjeet 
 Singh's troops, consisting of some cavalry and a 
 single horse artillery gun, began to form an en- 
 campment close to our old ground. The former 
 
206 PROM RHOTAS TO PESHAWUR. 
 
 were irregulars, and appeared as if resolved to act 
 up to their calling, as they marched quite inde- 
 pendent of each other; and indeed so wide and 
 straggling were their intervals, that a couple of 
 hours were consumed before all had passed us, 
 and their numbers did not exceed 100 men. The 
 native officer, in command of the artillery, halted 
 a short distance from where we were seated, and 
 advancing, begged he might be allowed to look 
 at the British howitzers. On permission being 
 granted, he touched them with his right hand, 
 and salaamed to them, and after a minute ex- 
 amination, pronounced the workmanship to be 
 faultless a compliment we could not pay in 
 return, as a more miserable affair than the piece 
 of ordnance under his control camiot be conceived. 
 Powder and shot were indiscriminately mingled 
 in the ammunition-box, threatening at any mo- 
 ment an explosion, and the carriages, like those 
 we saw at the Ravie, were frail and but badly put 
 together. 
 
 We resumed our march at twelve o'clock in 
 the same order as yesterday ; but in consequence 
 of the level state of the country were not so par- 
 
PROM RHOTAS TO PESHAWUR. 201 
 
 ticular in keeping close together. We passed at 
 intervals several small forts erected close to the 
 road side, and garrisoned by a few troops sta- 
 tioned in them for the protection of travellers, as 
 the neighbouring tribes, like those around the 
 Geedar Gullie, are by no means particular in their 
 honesty, and wish to hold all property in common 
 except their own. At one of these fortified posts 
 a couple of Akallies had taken up their residence, 
 and, observing our approach, loudly vociferated 
 for alms, in a tone of voice more accustomed to 
 demand than to beg. Their wants, however, 
 were unheeded by us, notwithstanding their as- 
 sertion that " Wade Sahib" had made them large 
 presents ; and could we have perfectly understood 
 their barbarous jargon of words, I doubt not but that 
 we might have selected from them more than one 
 complimentary sentence indicative of our want of 
 charity, or abusing us for questioning the veracity 
 of their communication. Neither of them had 
 on much clothing, which probably was cast off 
 as the day was sultry ; but both wore the conical 
 blue turban peculiar to their sect. In each of 
 their right hands gleamed a naked sword, which 
 
 
208 FROM RHOTAS TO PESHAWOR. 
 
 they flourished around their heads with much 
 dexterity, dancing and turning about during the 
 operation, and making use of gesticulations and 
 contortions most unpleasant to behold : respec- 
 tively on their left arms a shield was suspended. 
 
 Our road, the whole distance, extended along 
 the right bank of the river Cabul, occasionally 
 being more or less close to it, and an equally 
 beautiful trip we have not had for many a day. 
 As we neared the town of Nao Shahra, the scene 
 became almost English ; the sloping banks on 
 either side of the stream being covered v/ith 
 verdant grass, and fringed with mulberry and 
 other trees, and the distant views bounded by 
 ranges of hills inclosing the expanding valley. 
 The country throughout our march exhibited the 
 same want of cultivation, and a similar multitude 
 of graves, as it did yesterday, until we approached 
 Nao Shahra, where, as at Acora, the ground in 
 the immediate neighbourhood is prepared for 
 agricultural purposes, and promises an abundant 
 crop. The larger portioA of the town is situated 
 on the left bank of the river, and not far from the 
 spot where Runjeet Singh fought his last en- 
 
FROM RHOTAS TO PESHAWUR. QQg 
 
 counter with the Affghans, the victory being so 
 decisive in his favour, that he has ever since held 
 tolerably quiet possession of Peshawur. One 
 mound in particular was the subject of severe 
 fighting. Three times did the Sikhs gain its 
 vantage ground, and three times were they driven 
 back. The Maharajah at length advanced in 
 person at the head of his guards, and drove the 
 Affghans from their position ; the day was then 
 his own. Azeem Khan, his antagonist, being on 
 the right bank of the river, was prevented from 
 joining his troops during the action ; but he no 
 sooner heard of the reverse they had sustained, 
 than he fled precipitately to save his treasure. 
 An Akalli chief performed prodigies of valour on 
 the occasion, and was at last slain, after receiving 
 several wounds. 
 
 Opposite to Nao Shahra, Runjeet Singh has built 
 a large mud fort at the extremity of a low hill, 
 which extends to the brink of the river, and, close 
 to it, a small bazaar, with a good wide street, has 
 sprung up, and is capable of affording supplies 
 sufficient for the garrison, and also for a canton- 
 ment of cavalry, situated a few hundred yards 
 
21Q FROM RHOTAS TO PESHAWUR. 
 
 distant. Our encamping ground, which we 
 reached a little after four p. m., was not far from 
 the huts of the latter, and, on our arrival, we 
 found the tents pitched and ready for our recep- 
 tion. Numerous herds of camels, which had, 
 during the day, been sent out to graze by the 
 Sikh regiment, at sunset returned to their pickets, 
 carefully guarded ; and this precaution is most 
 necessary to ensure their safety, as the Khuttuck 
 tribes, who use the camel for food, are ever on 
 the watch to waylay a straggler ; and if, after 
 capturing one, they are pursued, and cannot carry 
 it off, they cruelly hamstring it, in hopes of being 
 able to fetch the carcase at some future period. 
 The Sikhs retaliate, and sometimes succeed in 
 surprising a herd of their hill neighbours, who 
 send their cattle to graze in the vicinity of their 
 haunts, without being careful to watch them very 
 strictly, naturally considering that when so near 
 their own fastnesses, they must be tolerably safe. 
 The result, however, proves they are not so, and 
 the Khuttucks this morning had to bewail the loss 
 of eleven camels, seized upon in their quiet re- 
 treat by the Maharajah's people, who carried them 
 
FROM RHOTAS TO PESHAWUR. gH 
 
 off in triumph, and safely lodged them in their 
 cantonment. The Sikhs had sent out this forag- 
 ing expedition, in consequence of the robbers 
 having despoiled them, a few days before, of three 
 camels, and whilst they were about it, they 
 deemed it only just that their enemies should feel 
 the weight of their vengeance, and have it proved 
 to them, that if their depredations were continued, 
 they, the Sikhs, had at their command ample 
 means to recover their property, as well as to 
 inflict punishment where necessary. 
 
 The chief of Nao Shadra, whose abode is on 
 the left bank of the river, crossed it as soon as he 
 had collected a sufficiency of supplies and paid his 
 respects to us. Being attended by a large train of 
 servants and followers, it was the first body of 
 thorough Affghans we had yet seen ; and certainly 
 there is a striking difference both in their features 
 and dress from any of the natives of Hindoostan, 
 and their cast of countenance is even more Jewish 
 than that of the Sikhs. Some of their complex- 
 ions are so fair as to be tinged with colour ; and 
 blue eyes, red hair, and carroty whiskers are by 
 no means uncommon. Perhaps, the part of their 
 
Q1Q FROM RHOTAS TO PESHAWUR 
 
 costume that most strikes a stranger, is the huge 
 turban, composed of vast folds of cloth crossing in 
 front somewhat in the shape of the figure x , the 
 colours being principally of blue, white, or 
 checked ; and their long flowing garments bound 
 round the waist by an enonnous " cummurbund"* 
 which, when opened out, would serve to envelop 
 the man himself, gives them almost a patriarclial 
 appearance. Our visitors were all of the tribe of 
 Eusoff Zhye, the largest in AfTghanistan, and the 
 inhabitants of the hills and plains to the north of 
 the Cabul river. Amongst other things in the 
 way of supplies, they brought us a lamb of the 
 broad-tailed species, similar to the breed at the 
 Cape of Good Hope, and which are here called 
 ** doombas ;" 150 eggs, ghee, flour and other arti- 
 cles in over-abundance, and two-thirds of which 
 we would gladly have returned, but the chief 
 would not permit it, and we subsequently trans- 
 ferred the larger portion of them to our servants. 
 
 March 2Gth, The country, during the latter 
 portion of our morning's march, exhibited many 
 more traces of cultivation than we have hitherto 
 
 * Sash. 
 
FROM RHOTAS TO PESHAWUR. 2iS 
 
 seen in the valley, but the graves were still suffi- 
 ciently numerous to remind us of the severe con- 
 tests that had been fought in it at no very distant 
 period ; they were, however, as nothing compared 
 with those of the two preceding journeys. In 
 some parts, where the plain had been left undis- 
 turbed and was covered with a thick green sward, 
 it was delightful to observe the profusion of wild 
 and sweet- smelling flowers with which it was be- 
 decked, and many of which forcibly reminded us 
 of the fields of England, the most common being 
 the dandelion, which however does not attain to 
 the size of that at home. Our camp was pitched 
 at Pubbee, and was about eleven miles distant 
 from our last ground. 
 
 March 27th, We left Pubbee at sunrise, and 
 had proceeded about six miles, when we were met 
 by a party of Allard's dragoons, sent by Colonel 
 Wade to escort us to his camp, and who, as we 
 approached them, formed up on one side of the 
 road and saluted us by drawing their right hands 
 to the forehead. We were much struck by the 
 excellent way in which these men were mounted, 
 their horses with one or two exceptions being un- 
 
214 FROM RHOTAS TO PESHAWUR. 
 
 commonly good. The trooper's dress is a red 
 jacket, (by no means new or of a bright colour,) 
 with broad facings of buff crossed in front by a 
 pair of black belts, one of which supports a pouch, 
 the other a bayonet. Round the waist, they wear 
 a girdle, partially concealed by a sword-belt, to 
 which a sabre with a brass hilt and leathern scab- 
 bard is suspended, and before the saddle is a small 
 leathern receptacle for the butt of the carbine, 
 which is so attached to the individual as to give it 
 the appearance of being slung across the back. 
 Their trousers are long, of dark blue cloth, with 
 a red stripe ; and their turbans of crimson silk, 
 brought somewhat into a peak in front, and orna- 
 mented in the centre with a small brass half-moon, 
 from which springs a glittering sprig about two 
 inches in height. Their saddles are concealed by 
 a crimson cloth edged with a border of blue-and- 
 white stripes, and the harness is adorned with 
 brass studs. The officers are attired from top to 
 toe in bright crimson silk, and they merely carry 
 a sabre attached to their persons by an ornamented 
 belt. Altogether, the appearance of the detach- 
 ment was very creditable, and the men would look 
 
FROM RHOTAS TO PESHAWUR. ^15 
 
 remarkably well if a better cloth was used for 
 their jackets. 
 
 Not long after the escort had joined us we had 
 to make a detour of some distance to avoid a dila- 
 pidated bridge in the direct route, near to which 
 the water was so deep as to be impassable, and to 
 gain a ford where the stream was tolerably shallow, 
 but running with much impetuosity. On its 
 opposite bank, we came upon an encampment of 
 people who obtain a subsistence by exhibiting 
 dancing-bears, monkeys, and other animals, and 
 who most probably were waiting until the river 
 should abate somewhat in its violence, to admit 
 of their transporting the motley collection under 
 their charge. No sooner, however, did they espy 
 us than they set to work at their avocations, and 
 two or three bears were immediately to be seen 
 standing on their hind legs and wrestling with 
 their owners, who were considerably disappointed 
 to find we did not wait to witness a display of 
 their skill. But for this we had no time, and per- 
 haps not much inclination, being anxious to com- 
 plete our journey. A European officer, the first 
 we had seen since quitting Lahore, just then 
 
2\(y FROM RHOTAS TO PESHAWUR. 
 
 appeared in sight, and galloping up, I had much 
 pleasure in recognising an old and valued friend 
 in the person of Lieutenant Maule,* of the artil- 
 lery. We had not seen each other for years, and 
 to meet in a country almost inunical to us and 
 beyond the pale of civilisation, rendered our 
 greeting the more satisfactory. In a quarter of 
 an hour, we reached Colonel Wade's camp, having 
 been two months and seven days on the march, 
 in which period we had travelled over 590 miles, 
 crossed five rivers by boats, and only halted 
 once, except from cases of necessity, such as ex- 
 cessive rain, swollen rivers, or want of camels. 
 
 This most promising and amiable officer was brutally mur- 
 dered in Kohistan, and was one of the first that fell a victim to 
 the merciless cruelties of the AflFghans in 1841. He had often 
 talked of returning to his native land on furlough, but a keen 
 sense of honour kept him in Affghanistan, where, as he had ac- 
 cepted a staff appointment in Shah Shoojah's service, he thought 
 it his duty to remain until the country had subsided into a tran- 
 quil state. In him the writer lost an old and esteemed friend, and 
 the artillery regiment a most active and zealous officer. I must 
 again refer the reader to Lieutenant Eyre's stirring narrative for 
 particulars. 
 
CHAPTER VII. 
 
 CAMP AT PESHAWUR. 
 
 Colonel Wade, with all the officers of the mis- 
 sion, had assembled at the extremity of their camp 
 to receive and welcome us to Peshawur, and as soon 
 as our detachments were arranged in the positions 
 assigned to them we adjourned to a large tent where 
 we partook of the Colonel's hospitality. Accus- 
 tomed, as we had been, to two or three varieties 
 of food hastily served up on some cracked dishes 
 and plates that had escaped the general wreck of 
 breakage, which a march invariably entails on the 
 crockery, we were scarcely prepared for the change 
 to an elegantly spread table, covered with silver, 
 and furnished with a profusion of delicate viands 
 that would have suited the taste of the most fas- 
 tidious epicure. Whilst indulging in the art of 
 gastronomy, our ears too were gratified with the 
 
 L 
 
21 S CAMP AT PESHAWUR. 
 
 sweet warblings of a musical box, and our olfactory 
 nerves were greeted with a delicious perfume 
 thrown forth by a bouquet of flowers plucked in 
 the gardens of Peshawur. Just at the conclusion 
 of this important meal, a drum and fife announced 
 the approach of the Sikh company that had at- 
 tended us from Lahore, and the men of which, 
 dressed in their best attire, consisting of a red 
 jacket, black cross-belts, white pantaloons, and a 
 crimson silk turban similar to that worn by 
 Allard's dragoons, were scarcely to be recognised 
 as the rabble, which, for so long a period, had 
 followed in our wake ; and whilst, in general, the 
 number of those who marched into camp at the 
 termination of each morning's journey, on an 
 average, never exceeded ten or twelve, (the rest 
 being stragglers,) to-day the full complement was 
 present, with the officers and non-commissioned 
 officers in their proper . places, who passed by 
 in the full consciousness of being admired and 
 talked of. When in the Punjab, they invariably 
 pitched their tents as far from our encampment 
 as was necessary to relieve them from all chance 
 of contamination with the Mussulman soldiers in 
 
CAMP AT PESIIAWUR. 219 
 
 our service ; but once across the Indus, and in 
 the territory of their most inveterate foes, the 
 AfFghans, their scruples ceased, and they crept as 
 close to our ground as it was possible for them 
 to do without interfering with our arrangements. 
 
 Our junction with the mission has increased 
 its former numbers by one fourth, and it now 
 consists of the undermentioned officers. 
 
 Lieutenant Colonel Wade, Political Agent and 
 Chief of the Mission. 
 
 Lieut. Cunningham, Engineers; 1st assistant to do. 
 
 P. B. Lord, Esq.,* Bombay Medical Service ; 
 an assistant in the Political Department, to Mr. 
 MacNaghten (doing duty). 
 
 Lieut. Maule, Artillery ; assistant in the Po- 
 litical Department. 
 
 Lieut. Dowson,f 5th Regt. Native Infantry ; do. 
 
 Lieut. Barr, H. A.; ditto, and commanding 
 detachment of Horse Artillery. 
 
 Lieut. Hillersdon,f 53rd N. I. ; assistant in the 
 Political Department. 
 
 * Shot at the battle of Purwundurra, 1840. 
 t These officers formed part of the " Illustrious garrison" of 
 Jellalabadin 1842. 
 
 L 2 
 
220 CAMP AT PESHAWUR. 
 
 A. Reid, Esq., Bengal Medical Service. In 
 medical charge of the mission. 
 
 Capt. Farmer, 21st N. I. ; commanding British 
 troops. 
 
 Lieut. Corfield, ditto. 
 
 Capt. Ferris, 20th N. I. 
 
 Lieut. Rattray, ditto. Adjutant to British 
 troops. 
 
 All these officers are present, except Lieuts, 
 Dowson and Hillersdon, who are encamped on 
 tlie western side of the city of Peshawur, super- 
 intending some levies lately raised for the service 
 of Shah-zada Timour, with whom the mission 
 has been sent, for the purpose of obtaining the co- 
 operation of the surrounding tribes towards effect- 
 ing tlie downfal of Dost Mahomed Khan, and 
 the restoration of his father, Shah Shoojah-ool- 
 Moolk, to the throne of Cabul. Numbers 
 have already flocked to the prince's standard, 
 partly influenced by a regard for his cause, 
 but (it is to be feared) more by the prospect 
 of securing good and regular pay at the hands 
 of the British Government ; and it is such indi- 
 viduals as these that have been placed under the 
 
CAMP AT PESHAWUR. 221 
 
 orders of Lieuts. D. and H. , to be moulded into 
 the shape and form of regularly disciplined 
 soldiers. 
 
 The Colonel's camp may well be termed a 
 miscellaneous depot, so various are the materials 
 and so incongruous is the mass of which it is 
 composed ; and its strength, exclusive of some 
 Douranee horsemen, under Dr. Lord, and the 
 levies under Dowson, is under 4000 men, and 
 may be classed under the following heads, which 
 will give their numbers as near as possible : 
 
 No. of 
 men. 
 
 British Troops Detachment of 4th T. 2 B. 
 Horse Artillery, 2 Cos. of 20th N. I., and 
 2 Cos. of 21st N. I., about 380 
 
 Shah-zada's Guards 1 Troop of Horse, 
 
 2 Cos. of Foot 300 
 
 Ghoorka Regiment 840 
 
 Nujeeb ditto 840 
 
 Aligols (Infantry) 840 
 
 Poorabies (ditto) 200 
 
 Goorcherras (Cavalry) 500 
 
 A party of Lancers 50 
 
 Grand total . 3950 
 
2^2 CAMP AT PESHAWUR. 
 
 The prince's personal guards consist of a risal- 
 lah* of horse, composed of 1 Rissaldar, 4 DufFo- 
 dars, 1 Nisanchie, or standard-bearer, 1 Nikarchie, 
 or trumpeter, and 98 troopers; and two compa- 
 nies of Rohillas, each having 1 Jemadar, 4 Naibs, 
 or corporals, 1 Nisanchie, and 99 Sepoys. These 
 are under Maulers superintendence and command, 
 and he also performs the duties of what may be 
 termed the Shah-zada's principal assistant. The 
 other regiments and detachments (except the 
 British) belong to Runjeet Singh, and have been 
 placed at Colonel Wade's disposal. Two guns 
 (6-pounders) are respectively attached to the 
 Ghoorka and Nujeeb regiments, who, with the 
 Poorabees, are dressed in red, but the Aligols 
 wear white jackets and blue trowsers, and the 
 Goorcherras retain their native costume, Colonel 
 Jacob Thomas, a half-caste, commands the Nujeeb 
 regiment, and is a son of the celebrated General 
 Thomas, of so much notoriety in India, at the 
 close of the last century. He is, I understand, a 
 dull and heavy man, and the efficiency of his 
 regiment, as well as of his own authority, may 
 
 * Troop. 
 
CAMP AT PESHAWUR. ^23 
 
 be judged from the circumstance that, when his 
 men were ordered, the other day, to move their 
 camp, he came to complain to Colonel Wade, 
 that although he had issued his commands for 
 them to do so, not a single individual would 
 attend to them. At half past seven we sat down 
 to dinner, which was served up in the same pro- 
 fuse style as the breakfast, and speaks well of a 
 political camp life, whilst a few bottles of cham- 
 pagne were opened in honour of our arrival, and 
 added to the hilarity of the evening. 
 
 March 2Sth. My slumbers were disturbed at 
 daybreak by a villanous compound of sounds, the 
 most distinct of which strongly reminded me, in 
 my semi-awakened state, of the braying of some 
 infuriated jackasses, each endeavouring to outvie 
 the other in the loudness of their most dissonant 
 tones, and attended by a parcel of individuals 
 urging them to the performance by keeping up a 
 continual clatter with pots, pans, kettles, chil- 
 lumchies,* and other brazen vessels, mercilessly 
 struck together, to create as much confusion as 
 it was possible. There was no sleeping after this, 
 
 * Brass washhand basins. 
 
224 CAMP AT PESHAWUR. 
 
 SO I vociferated to my bearer to inquire the reason 
 of all the disturbance, and prepared to dress. 
 His reply, however, was immediate, and my senses 
 were somewhat staggered to hear that it arose 
 from the state hand of his Royal Highness the 
 Shah-zada Timour, whose tent is situated nearly 
 in front of mine, and whose pleasure it is to have 
 the musicians pour forth their inharmonious 
 strains each day at the same unseasonable time, 
 it being a royal custom. I philosophically con- 
 soled myself with the reflection that, however I 
 may be inclined to indulge in unnecessary sleep, 
 it will not be in my power henceforth to do so ; 
 and I may, hereafter, have occasion to thank the 
 prince for his consideration, in arousing the camp 
 at an hour so beneficial, and so conducive to 
 health. 
 
 I had no sooner stepped from my tent, than 
 my vision was greeted by an English carriage of 
 -the last century, standing opposite to the colonel's 
 tent, and drawn by four handsome mules, indif- 
 ferently harnessed. I was half inclined to doubt 
 their reality, as my senses had not quite recovered 
 the sudden shock they had received from the 
 
CAMP AT PESHAWUR. 225 
 
 Shah-zada's band ; but it was useless there 
 stood the vehicle the veritable picture of a de- 
 cayed family coach, its panels painted bright 
 green, picked out with gold, and the very spikes 
 at its back still bristling in formidable array, as 
 a terror to all little blackguards who should 
 attempt to seat themselves behind. It resembled 
 one of those old-looking hackney-coaches, that 
 are yet to be seen flying about the streets of 
 London, although, perhaps, were they placed 
 side by side, preference might be accorded to 
 the jarvey, as a hinder wheel of the carriage is 
 completely out of the perpendicular. The cattle, 
 however, are strong and active, and deserved a 
 better appendage to their tails ; and this sin- 
 gular equipage belongs to General Avitabile, the 
 Governor of Peshawur. 
 
 I was anxious to see the Shah-zada, for whose, 
 and his father's benefit the British are involving 
 themselves in an expensive war ; and I had my 
 wish gratified this evening when he quitted his 
 tent to enjoy the freshness of a declining summer's 
 day, though to him impregnated with a quantity 
 of dust, kicked up by the numerous natives who 
 
 l3 
 
22Q CAMP AT PESHAWUR. 
 
 formed his escort. To overawe the weak minds of 
 the rabble population of Peshawur, as well as to 
 protect him from the evil machinations of any dis- 
 affected tribes, the prince, whenever he moves 
 beyond the precincts of the camp, is invariably 
 accompanied by the whole of his personal guards, 
 and a large retinue of irregular cavalry. In the 
 present instance a motley crew of Douranees, who 
 had joined him since his arrival in the valley, 
 led the way, and though wild and picturesque in 
 appearance, there is a scampish look about them 
 that tells they would be active enough in a scene 
 of plunder, if any such should chance to fall in 
 their way. Their dress is multifarious, each seem- 
 ingly pleasing himself as to his costume ; but those 
 most to be admired wear a flexible mail shirt, 
 gauntlets, and casque of steel, or a Kuzzilbash 
 cap, formed out of the glossy skin of a jet black 
 lamb, and tapering off* towards the top, on which 
 a small red tuft is visible. The Chupkun, or 
 long Mussulman robe, is very generally used ; but 
 its colours vary with the fancy of the wearer, and 
 the turban, consisting as it does of innumerable 
 folds of cloth, is heaped on the head in the most 
 
Camp at peshawur. 90"^ 
 
 irregular manner, and only kept in unison by the 
 cummurbund being wrapped round the body in as 
 equally slovenly a way. Many wear high boots 
 of rough untanned leather, or sandals laced with 
 thongs ; and not a few had on shoes with large 
 hob-nails in the soles. Their complexions, too, 
 differ as much as their dress, some being as fair 
 as Europeans, whilst others are as swarthy as 
 Negroes. A great number dye their beards red, 
 which seems to be a favourite colour, as it is not 
 unusual with them to stain their horses' legs and 
 tails of the same hue ; and the latter appendage 
 is very often tied up in a knot. They were all 
 mounted upon a good and hardy description of 
 pony, and generally armed with a light jhe- 
 zail, or rifle, and a sword and shield ; but a few, 
 in addition to their other weapons, carried a long 
 spear. Discipline is unknown in their ranks ; and 
 even the necessity of, in some measure, keeping 
 together as a body apparently is irksome to them. 
 Every one strives to be in front; and now and then 
 an individual would suddenly dart from the midst 
 of the party, and scampering off at full gallop, 
 would fire off his matchlock, and then return to 
 
02S CAMP AT PESHAWUR. 
 
 his comrades, at the same rapid pace. I was much 
 interested in their appearance and proceedings, 
 as they formed a fair sample of the much-vaunted 
 Affghan cavah^y ; and although, no doubt, excel- 
 lent in their own country, and in contests with 
 the hordes they have hitherto encountered, a 
 charge, on fair ground, from one regiment of 
 European dragoons, would either annihilate them, 
 or literally bear them off the field. 
 
 Next to the Douranees was a company of Ro- 
 hillas, who dress in long blue chupkuns, green 
 turbans and cummurbunds, and buff trowsers. 
 They are armed with matchlocks, and have at- 
 tained to a slight degree of discipline ; and al- 
 though there was a good deal of confusion in their 
 ranks, they looked quite steady in comparison 
 with the irregulars who had preceded them. Im- 
 mediately following was the prince, in person, 
 mounted on a stately elephant, and seated in a how- 
 dah, highly decorated with silver-gilt ornaments. 
 He was simply attired in a robe of dark blue, 
 with a pure white and very neatly constructed 
 turban, and being a fine-looking man, about 
 thirty-two years of age, appeared to advantage 
 
CAMP AT PESHAWUR. ggt) 
 
 in a plain costume ; but a closer inspection showed 
 that the lineaments of his countenance are stamped 
 with a listless indifference to his situation, and an 
 unyielding apathy to every thing around him. 
 Behind him sat his wuzeer, an old man with sil- 
 very hair, and formerly Shah Shoojah's preceptor. 
 His name is MooUa Shukore. A smaller elephant, 
 with two of the Shah-zada's attendants, followed ; 
 then another company of Rohillas, and close to 
 them the Risallah, a very well dressed troop, the 
 men wearing a red " chupkun" over a green 
 under-coat, and turbans and cummurbunds of the 
 same colour as the latter garment. They are 
 armed with a sword and shield, and a light spear, 
 to which a small pennant is attached. Their sad- 
 dle-cloths are chequered with red and green, but 
 their horses are inferior to what they should be. 
 Taking them, however, altogether, they form a 
 very smart escort, and do Maule, who has had the 
 trouble of disciplining them, very much credit. 
 Another detachment of Douranee cavalry com- 
 pleted the guard. 
 
 March 29th. As to-day had been set apart for 
 the Shah-zada to hold his first public durbar in 
 
230 CAMP AT PESHAWUR. 
 
 Peshawur, it was necessary that as much splen- 
 dour and display should be thrown into the scene 
 as was at the command of the mission. The 
 morning was devoted to the reception of General 
 Avitabile, the governor, and of General Court, 
 an officer in the Maharajah's service; and the after- 
 noon to winning congratulations and welcomes 
 from his uncle, the Prince Hashim. A salute of 
 eleven guns, fired from a battery of six-pounders, 
 announced the arrival of the French generals in 
 camp ; and a guard of honom*, consisting of the 
 two companies of the 20th Native Infantiy, in full 
 dress, were drawn up in line, to present arms as 
 they passed by to the durbar tent. The time 
 fixed upon for the ceremony was nine o'clock ; 
 but, unfortunately, natives of rank have imbibed 
 a most absurd notion that their dignity is much 
 enhanced if they can but manage to keep their 
 visitors dancing in attendance upon them to an 
 indefinite period beyond the hour settled for the 
 meeting. Nor did we find Shah-zada Timour an 
 exception to the general rule. The appointed 
 time arrived, passed by, and yet no intimation was 
 sent of his being ready to receive us ; we there- 
 
CAMP AT PESHAWUR. Q^l 
 
 , fore adjourned to Colonel Wade's tent, and were 
 introduced by him to the French officers. 
 
 Mons. Avitabile is a fine tall stout man, up- 
 wards of six feet high, with a pleasing yet deter- 
 mined cast of countenance, from which you can 
 see at once he never issues an order without its 
 being promptly obeyed, or woe be to the man 
 who neglects it. He wears his beard, which is 
 of a grey colour, and reaches half way down his 
 chest, and in conversation speaks either in Persian 
 or French. He dresses very magnificently. On 
 the present occasion, his costume consisted of a 
 long green coat, fashioned not unlike a Mussul- 
 man's " chupkun," and ornamented with a profu- 
 sion of lace and three rows of oblong buttons of 
 solid gold ; trowsers of scarlet cloth, with a broad 
 gold stripe down the seams, and a green velvet 
 cap, with a band also of gold lace and a tassel of 
 the same material, but no peak. This he invari- 
 ably retains on his head, whether indoors or not, 
 (as does Mons. Court his, both having adopted the 
 native custom of remaining at all times covered;) 
 and out of compliment to them we did the same, 
 although, I must confess, I could gladly have dis- 
 
OOO CAMP AT PESHAWUR. 
 
 pensed with the weight of my hehnet. General 
 Court was also well dressed ; but being a short 
 thick-set man, pitted with the small-pox, he did not 
 appear to the same advantage as Avitabile. The 
 first glimpse I got of him at once impressed me with 
 his strong resemblance to a rough and ready sailor, 
 and I believe the same idea was general through- 
 out our party. He wore an open horse-artillery 
 full-dress jacket, displaying beneath it a red waist- 
 coat, equally profusely ornamented with lace ; and 
 his cap and trowsers were similar to the governor's. 
 Both had handsome sabres attached to embroidered 
 belts, the plate of Avitabile's being of gold stud- 
 ded with valuable jewels, as was also his scabbard, 
 a very small portion of green velvet being visible 
 in the centre of it. The blade of his scimitar, 
 which belonged to Akhbar, is a very superb one, 
 and cost the governor 2,000 rupees, which, added 
 to 1,000 more for the setting, may be considered 
 a tolerably large sum for a weapon. 
 
 The gong had chimed ten ere the Prince was 
 announced as being prepared to receive us, a 
 piece of information we were not a little pleased 
 at, as our patience was nigh being exhausted with 
 
CAMP AT PESHAWUR. 2S3 
 
 having waited so long. Wade, with a general on 
 either hand, led the way, and we of the mission 
 followed. On entering the durbar tent, we 
 found the poor Shah-zada, unaccustomed to the 
 royal part he was henceforth to play, standing 
 to do the honours, (a piece of condescension, I be- 
 lieve, unlooked for in his station,) but on amotion 
 from the colonel he instantly rectified it by pop- 
 ping with much alacrity on to his guddee or throne. 
 This consisted of a large square ottoman covered 
 with kim-khwab,* in the centre of which and ap- 
 proaching to the front were three pillows, enveloped 
 in a beautifully delicate coloured silk, to support his 
 head and arms. Cashmere shawls were spread in 
 front for us to walk on, and as we did not take off 
 our boots seemed out of place on the ground. 
 On either side of the guddee were arranged chairs, 
 on which we sat, and conformable with Eastern 
 manners did not uncover the head. In front of 
 the prince stood the old Wuzeer, habited in bright 
 kim-khwab with gold ornaments ; and behind, on 
 his right and left, were two attendants. The two 
 French generals having been presented with all 
 * Kim-khwab ; silk worked with gold and silver flowers : brocade. 
 
234 CAMP AT PESHAWUR. 
 
 due form, we three, who had lately joined, passed 
 through the same ceremony, making a salaam with 
 our right hands as we were named to His Highness, 
 who was pleased to utter a few almost unintelligi- 
 ble gutturals signifying that we were welcome. 
 Beyond these words, and an occasional affirmative 
 expressed by the dissyllable " bulli," he maintained 
 a total silence to the colonel's address, and like- 
 wise to a short but loud oration vociferated by 
 Mons. Avitabile. A period was at last put to 
 these uninteresting proceedings by a few menials 
 entering with the " khilluts," or honorary dresses, 
 and presents, intended for the French generals. 
 These consisted of " chogahs," or robes, some 
 trays of shawls, and American rifles ; all, of 
 course, furnished by the British Government. 
 The governor of Peshawur received his very gra- 
 ciously ; but it was amusing to observe the rough 
 manner in which his brother officer acted, and 
 who, instead of permitting the attendant to en- 
 velope his shoulders in the folds of a crimson 
 cloak, seized hold of, and stuffed it beneath his 
 elbow, as it was resting on the arm-chair, and 
 supporting his head. We shortly after took leave, 
 
CAMP AT PESHAWUR. 235 
 
 a relief both to ourselves and to our host, who, 
 although he looked sl prince in every respect, 
 yet, being but lately drawn from comparative 
 obscurity, and unaccustomed, in his new capacity, 
 to the gaze of strangers, seemed but ill at ease 
 with this public exhibition of his greatness, and, 
 I have no doubt, was glad when the ceremony 
 concluded. With the exception of his turban, 
 which had been exchanged for one of a puce colour, 
 tastily and even elegantly arranged on his head, 
 he was dressed in the same simple costume that 
 he wore yesterday, his handsome, though listless 
 features, brightening to a look of intelligence as 
 we arose to retire. We all salaamed to him, 
 which he returned, and we then backed out, (or 
 ought to have done so, for, I believe, few of us, 
 except the Politicals, thought of this piece of 
 etiquette,) passing beneath a semiana, or awning, 
 under which trays of flowers were spread out, and 
 thence through the range of kanauts, or screens, 
 that enclosed a large area in front of the durbar tent. 
 After being kept from breakfast for so many 
 hours, it was not without a great deal of satisfac- 
 tion that we adjourned to the colonel's tent, and 
 
235 CAMP AT PESHAWUR. 
 
 there sat down to a meal, sufficient to have dined 
 some thirty persons ; the solid materials of which 
 it was composed being added to the repast in 
 honour of the French visitors, who are accustomed 
 to substantial fare thus early in the morning. 
 Champagne and claret foiTued part of the enter- 
 tainment, and a second course of pastry .and such 
 like articles, was served up on the removal of the 
 first. Behind the governor stood two of his 
 servants, a pair of diminutive Affghan boys, 
 dressed in shawl turbans, gold waist-belts, and 
 spotted " chupkuns," one of whom was an ex- 
 tremely handsome lad, and would even have made 
 a remarkably pretty girl ; he, however, looked 
 quite out of place in attendance upon a masculine 
 individual like Avitabile, and would have been 
 better suited for the occupation of a lady's page. 
 
 The afternoon must have been entered upon 
 ere we arose from table, and, at three p. m., 
 Maule and I, mounted on an elephant, proceeded 
 a short distance from camp to meet and conduct 
 the Shah-zada Hashim to his noble relative. We 
 had not gone far beyond its confines, when a cloud 
 of dust announced his approach, and, on his 
 
CAMP AT PESHAWUR. g3Y 
 
 coming up, we salaamed, and expressed our 
 gratification at his visit, Maule being the inter-' 
 preter. The prince showed but few traits of his 
 royal birth, being a mean looking old fellow, 
 clothed in a shabby shawl dress, and surrounded 
 by a set of ragamuffins by way of attendants ; 
 and, whether the heat was too overpowering for 
 His Royal Highness, or whether he was overcome 
 by the novelty of the scene, or the thunder of the 
 cannonade announcing his arrival, is unknown, 
 but his handkerchief was seen to be in constant 
 requisition to remove the perspiration that be- 
 dewed his wrinkled forehead, and even streamed 
 down the furrows of his cheeks. At the entrance 
 to the durbar, his elephant, of course, had prece- 
 dence of ours, and, on his alighting from it and 
 passing through the kanauts that enclosed the 
 tent, a rush was immediately made by the rabble 
 to procure admittance with him, which effectu- 
 ally excluded us. Before a sufficient clearance 
 could be completed to permit our ingress, the 
 meeting of the Prince Hashim with his nephew, 
 the most interesting part of the scene, had con- 
 cluded, and, when we entered, we found the former 
 
238 CAMP AT PESHAWUR. 
 
 seated by the side of the Shah-zada Timour, on 
 the guddee, which had been brought to the front 
 of the tent, so as to face the semiana. The latter 
 prince offered us chairs, which we declined, as we 
 thought he would prefer to be alone with his 
 relative, and we therefore walked up and down 
 the area enclosed by the kanauts. Within these 
 limits, those only who belonged to the royal tribe 
 of Douranee were allowed to enter ; and each 
 individual, as he came within sight of the Shah- 
 zada, offered up a prayer for his welfare, and 
 then ranged himself in line along the extremity of 
 the semiana ; in this manner forming an avenue 
 from the entrance to the durbar tent. Thus 
 placed, the people stood with their hands folded, 
 and their eyes cast on the ground, agreeably to 
 the custom of the Persians and Affghans when in 
 the presence of royalty ; but, occasionally, I de- 
 tected a fellow taking a side glance at his prince 
 when he thought he could do so unobserved, and 
 one or two even went so far as to smile ; these 
 exceptions were, however, few, the rest preserving 
 an almost immovable stillness. 
 
 The Wuzeer Moolla Shukore and the two 
 
CAMP AT PESHAWUR. ^39 
 
 attendants who had waited on the Shah-zada at 
 the morning's durbar, officiated as masters of the 
 ceremony on the present occasion, and admitted 
 the select few, allowed to remain in the presence 
 of the son of their future sovereign ; of these, 
 scarcely any were otherwise than meanly attired, 
 and their dress, in general, bespoke a close alliance 
 with poverty. One of the attendants bore the 
 office of physician to the prince, the other that of 
 the Amla Bashee, a species of comptroller of the 
 household. A tale is related of the doctor, who, 
 when at Cabul, a few years ago, was seized by 
 Dost Maljpmmed, for some offisnce, and placed in 
 confinement. Here he lingered for some time ; 
 but not having shown a disposition to escape, his 
 guards were ultimately reduced to two soldiers, 
 who conversed with him, and showed him other 
 acts of kindness. One day, both happening to 
 complain of illness, the doctor volunteered to 
 provide them with medicine, and, as he had the 
 reputation of being a clever disciple of Esculapius, 
 they gladly availed themselves of his offisr. An 
 opportunity of regaining his freedom suddenly 
 presented itself to him, but his plans had to be 
 
^40 ^^^^^ ^"^ PESHAWUR. 
 
 matured, and he administered only a slight dose 
 to his patients, which, however, had the effect of 
 benefiting them so much, that, without any sus- 
 picion of his intentions, they next day requested 
 a repetition of it. Accordingly, another draught 
 was prepared; but the wily doctor, in whom the 
 love of liberty was stronger than the welfare of his 
 humane guards, artfully threw a quantity of drugs 
 into the potion, and then quietly awaited the 
 result. This was not long in being manifested 
 the keepers were seized with cramps and retch- 
 ings that convinced them they were attacked by 
 that dire disease the cholera, and the fear of its 
 terminating fatally aided the effects of the medi- 
 cine. Their strength was quickly prostrated, and 
 the doctor, who had been on the watch, observing 
 their helpless state, and the complete success of 
 his stratagem, left his prison, mounted a horse in 
 waiting, galloped off as hard as he could, and was 
 forty miles from Cabul ere his escape was dis- 
 covered. He eluded all pursuit, and eventually 
 arrived at Loodianah in safety. 
 
 At the conclusion of the durbar, Colonel Wade 
 and the Shah-zada Timour, seated on elephants. 
 
CAMP AT PESHAWUR. g^^j 
 
 proceeded in state to the outskirts of the camp, 
 where the latter was to be presented to the as- 
 sembled multitudes who had espoused his cause. 
 Divided into tribes, each, as it came up under 
 its respective chief, marched past the prince's 
 elephant many amongst the horsemen galloping 
 at will out of their ranks, curvetting their steeds, 
 firing their matchlocks, and committing other 
 extravagances to testify their joy. Of all that 
 appeared in this animated scene none claimed so 
 much attention as a band of the notorious Khy- 
 berries, whose tall, gaunt figures, high cheek- 
 bones, and muscular sinews, betokened a race of 
 hardy mountaineers. Like all hill people, they 
 attend but little to the dictates of cleanliness ; 
 and the dirty garments they exhibited to the 
 prince were but in keeping with features equally 
 guiltless of suffering from ablution. Their dress 
 generally consisted of a long chupkun of a light 
 brown colour, reaching to the knees, loose trow- 
 sers, and grass sandals, or shoes v^dth hobnails. 
 The turban assimilates with that of the other 
 Affghan tribes. Their usual weapons are a long 
 jhezail, or rifle, with a wooden fork attached to 
 
 M 
 
242 CAMP AT PESHAWUR. 
 
 its extremity, on which the piece is rested to 
 secure a better aim ; a sword ; and a large knife 
 stuck into the sash : some had a pistol in addition. 
 Their appearance was wild in the extreme ; and 
 a rude pipe, screaming forth a few shrill notes, 
 heightened the effect, and added to the interest 
 of these celebrated and formidable robbers. A 
 largess of several hundred rupees was scattered 
 amongst the population, and the ceremony did 
 not conclude till some time after sunset. The 
 Shah-zada behaved like an automaton on the 
 occasion, never opening his lips, and apparently 
 but little interested in the scene ; but the old 
 wuzeer, however, who sat behind, was determined 
 something should be said ; and making use of the 
 howdah as a rostrum, he arose, and delivered a 
 long oration in the Persian language. 
 
 March SOth. Our late Mihmundar, Luchman 
 Singh, and the Subadar of the Sikh troops, who 
 had accompanied us from Lahore, were introduced 
 this morning to Colonel Wade, who presented 
 them with "khilluts," or honorary dresses, and 
 other gifts. Every sepoy in the company also 
 had a douceur of three rupees; the sums to the 
 
CAMP AT PESHAWUR. 243 
 
 native officers being proportionally increased, and 
 all seemed pleased with the generosity of the 
 British Government. 
 
 March S\st. The detachment of Sikh troops 
 that had been so long with us left our camp this 
 morning to proceed to the Punjab, where it will 
 rejoin the regiment to which it belongs. It forms 
 a part of Rajah Gholab Singh's army. 
 
 April \st, General Avitabile having promised 
 to parade the Maharajah's troops under his 
 command for the inspection of the Shah-zada, we 
 met at an early hour this morning in front of 
 Colonel Wade's tent, who soon after joined us. 
 It was originally intended that the prince should 
 ride to the ground on horseback, but he excused 
 himself on the plea that his stirrup-leathers were 
 broken, and had now ordered his elephant to be 
 in attendance. After a remonstrance, to the effect 
 that he was to take care this did not occur again, 
 had been sent to him by the colonel, we cantered 
 to the scene of action, escorted by a party of 
 Allard's lancers, leaving the prince to follow, in 
 company with Maule and Cunningham, on another 
 elephant, and attended by all his personal guards. 
 
244- CAMP AT PESHA^nJR. 
 
 Our party made a direct cut across country, and, 
 for upwards of a mile, was meandering through 
 a cemetery, crowded with countless graves, into 
 which had been cast the victims of a pestilential 
 disease that, a few years ago, had made terrible 
 havoc with the population of Peshawur. 
 
 Soon after quitting this burying-ground we 
 were suddenly stopped by an awkward ditch, dug 
 for the purposes of irrigation, and into which a 
 lancer and his horse fell, after a fruitless attempt 
 to leap it. To escape a similar fate, we made a 
 slight detour, where, however, the ground did not 
 prove to be very satisfactory, as a quagmire 
 stretched its treacherous influence for some dis- 
 tance around, and was concealed from view by a 
 coating of dry sand. Wade and Lord, being in 
 advance, were soon within its limits, and their 
 horses, after plentifully bedabbling the gold- 
 embroidered uniforms of their riders, did not 
 extricate themselves without a struggle. We, 
 who were behind, took warning from their expe- 
 rience, and, by extending the circumference of 
 our circle, avoided a dilemma none of us were 
 very anxious to encounter. 
 
CAMP AT PESHAWUR. 24f5 
 
 On the arrival of the Shah-zada, the artillery 
 fired a salute of twenty-one guns, the infantry 
 presented arms, and the drummers and trum- 
 peters vied v^^ith each other, to produce the 
 loudest sound in honour of the event. This con- 
 cluded, we rode to the left of the line^ and com- 
 menced the inspection. Here was a small battery 
 of foot artillery, consisting of a large howitzer, and 
 two small mortars mounted on field carriages, and 
 drawn by bullocks; the men attached to them 
 being badly dressed in old coats of divers colours, 
 and the ordnance not having even cleanliness to 
 recommend it. Two or three regiments of infan- 
 try came next ; the soldiers being accoutred in red 
 jackets and white trowsers, black cross-belts, and 
 pink silk turbans. Adjoining them ranged some 
 more foot artillery, bad in every respect ; about as 
 many more regiments of infantry, and three guns 
 again to their right. We then reached the cavalry, 
 the dragoons occupying the left. These were well 
 mounted, and form a fine body of men and horses. 
 Their dress I have already described. On their 
 right were two regiments of AUard's cuirassiers, the 
 most noble-looking troops on parade. The men and 
 
246 CAMP AT PESHAWUR. 
 
 horses were all picked, and amongst the former are 
 to he seen many stalwart fellows, who appear to 
 advantage under their cuirasses and steel casques. 
 Particular attention seems to have heen paid in 
 setting the men well up, and their accoutrements 
 are kept in the liighest order. Many of the officers 
 wear brass cuirasses, and their commandant is 
 perhaps the finest man of the whole body, and 
 looked extremely well in front of his superb regi- 
 ment. Lord, who has been some time at Pesha- 
 wur, says it used to be poor Allard's pride and 
 amusement to review these men, and their present 
 soldier-like and martial appearance is no doubt 
 owing to that officer's constant care and superin- 
 tendence. A small body of horse artillery occu- 
 pied ground to the right of the cuirassiers, but 
 beyond the horses there was nothing to be admired 
 about them: they were equally bad with their 
 comrades in the foot. This concluded the whole 
 of the line ; and to do the men justice, they were 
 very steady under arms, and, as a body, their ap- 
 pearance was very creditable. 
 
 General Avitabile then pointed out a position 
 for us to take up whilst the troops passed by in 
 
AMP AT PESHAWTJR. 247 
 
 review order ; but it was not without some diffi- 
 culty the Douranees and other irregular horse of 
 the Shah-zada's guards were prevailed upon, and 
 made to remain still and quiet during the cere- 
 mony. The effect of the sun glistening on the 
 cuirassier's casques and breast- plates as they were 
 advancing was extremely pretty ; and the regularity 
 and order in which they walked by, could scarcely 
 be exceeded by the Company's cavalry. They 
 were preceded by an indifferent band of trumpets 
 and kettle-drums the men composing it being 
 robed in long coats reaching below the knees, and 
 having their heads protected by a sort of jockey 
 cap, in which they looked anything but well. 
 The whole of the troops passed in quick time, 
 the officers being in front, and saluting. The 
 dresses of the latter individuals differed in every 
 regiment of infantry, although all the men were 
 equipped alike. In one they were encased in a 
 tight-fitting costume of crimson silk, from top to 
 toe ; in another, bright yellow was the predo- 
 minant colour ; and in a third, an equally brilliant 
 orange denoted the men in authority ; and it was 
 amusing to observe the independent and swagger- 
 
248 CAMP AT PESHAWUR. 
 
 ing manner with which these would-be-gentry 
 stalked by the saluting flag. The step was kept 
 excellently well, but very few of the companies 
 preserved their dressing during the wheel, and only 
 regained it through the exertions of the officers, 
 who turned round and put them to-rights, pre- 
 serving their distance and time by marching back- 
 wards : on the line being rectified, they with the 
 same sang froid performed another semi-circle, and 
 being by this time opposite to the Shah-zada, 
 hurriedly saluted him. The foot artillery came 
 last, and even looked worse than when in line ; for 
 a number of buflaloes having been admitted into 
 the service, their sombre hue, and the dirty state 
 in which the bullocks were kept, were only more 
 conspicuously displayed. 
 
 As the ground did not allow of any manoeuvres 
 being performed, the columns, as they passed by, 
 filed off to their respective cantonments ; the 
 Shah-zada, at the termination of the review, re- 
 turning to camp, wliilst we adjourned to the 
 Governor's house, where a superb and substantial 
 breakfast was prepared for us. A saddle of 
 mutton, cut from off a doomba, flanked one end of 
 
CAMP AT PESHAWUR. 249 
 
 the table, and was a conspicuous object from its 
 size, the tail alone a solid looking mass of fat, 
 standing a foot from the cloth, and looking any- 
 thing but a delicate dish: however, those who 
 tasted it pronounced it to be excellent. The 
 centre was occupied by an article of food that 
 puzzled us all amazingly ; and it was not till after 
 some time that we discovered it to be a piece of 
 pleasantry on the part of the Governor, to com- 
 memorate the 1st of April, being nothing more 
 than a leg of mutton spliced in some Frenchified 
 style, with a fowl's head stuck where the knuckle 
 bone ought to have been. He laughed heartily at 
 the joke, and seemed amused that he had taken 
 us in. 
 
 Breakfast being concluded, we ascended to an 
 upper apartment, where a score of Nautch girls, 
 attended by a couple of duennas, and a band of 
 musicians, soon after entered, and commenced their 
 avocations of singing, or rather screaming, (as each 
 endeavoured to outvie the other in the loudness of 
 her tones,) and dancing. Amongst the number 
 were a few children, varying from seven to ten 
 years of age, who have already made some progress 
 
 M 3 
 
^50 ^-^^P ^'^ peshawur. 
 
 in their profession, and are gradually being initiated 
 into the mysteries of a craft most derogatory in its 
 nature, as carried on in the East, though unfortu- 
 nately not considered to be so by the natives them- 
 selves. To vary the amusement, the General 
 showed us several long matchlocks, and jhezails, 
 or rifles, which he had just had made up ; some of 
 these being seven feet long, and so heavy that it 
 was as much as any of us could do to lift them 
 horizontal^ ; and they can only be manageable with 
 forks (like the Khyberries use) to support them, 
 or as wall pieces, where they would become formi- 
 dable weapons, as they send a ball to a consider- 
 able distance. He also exhibited his collection of 
 sabres, some of which are extremely valuable, but 
 none more so than that he wore at the Shah-zada's 
 levee. One, however, was very curious, from its 
 antiquity, being evidently of Grecian construc- 
 tion, as the blade was covered with figures in bas- 
 relief, and of length sufficient to have formed a 
 two-handed sword. It was found in a tank not 
 far from Wuzeerabad. 
 
 The house in which the Governor entertained 
 us, forms the centre of one of the sides of an old, 
 
.VAWP AT PESHAWUR. 251 
 
 but spacious caravanserai, the walls of which he 
 has repaired and converted into lines of defence, 
 both for musquetry and cannon ; and as there are 
 godowns and store-houses in its interior, where he 
 can lodge ammunition and provisions, the place is 
 easily converted into a fortified situation, capable 
 of containing a large garrison, and of affording 
 strenuous resistance in case of a siege. In 
 choosing a place of residence amongst the undis- 
 ciplined population committed to his government, 
 Avitabile was doubtless swayed by these conside- 
 rations ; and should the Affghans at any future, 
 period endeavour to cast off the yoke of their 
 conquerors, he would, if such were necessary, easily 
 be enabled to hold this position until succour 
 arrived from the Punjab. Independent of the 
 caravanserai being erected on elevated ground, the 
 General's mansion is raised to the height of three 
 stories, thus completely commanding the city, (the 
 main street of which it faces,) and overlooking the 
 neighbouring ground. An extensive view of the 
 country is obtained from the roof, (which is flat,) 
 and the distance on three sides, backed by a suc- 
 cession of mountains, the most lofty of them being 
 
252 CAMP AT PESHAWUR. 
 
 enveloped in snow, is exceedingly pretty, and 
 deserving of a better foreground than is formed by 
 th<e city of Peshawur, the houses of which being 
 composed of unbumt bricks, and inserted into 
 wooden frames, for the most part unbroken by the 
 usual accompaniments of mosques and minarets, 
 display a mass of ugliness with scarcely a redeem- 
 ing feature. One half of the area of the caravan- 
 serai is now being converted into a flower garden, 
 and the other is set apart for parades, guard 
 mountings, and other military purposes: several 
 .cannon and ammunition wagons were drawn up 
 on one side of the latter. An avenue of young 
 trees stretches from the mansion to the gateway, 
 where the Governor has also a few apartments, 
 still in an unfinished state, but, like the former, 
 decorated with paintings in the native style. The 
 beams in the ceilings of them being constructed of 
 the deodar, (the cedar of Lebanon,) and exposed 
 to the air, threw out a delicious perfume, and 
 reminded me strongly of the abodes of Simla, 
 where this wood is so much used. 
 
CHAPTER VIII. 
 
 CAMP AT PESHAWUR. 
 
 April ^w^.-^OuR camp was moved this morning 
 from Chumkunnie to a spot about a mile beyond 
 the eastern face of the city ; and as our route lay 
 through the main street of Peshawur, Colonel 
 Wade directed our march should assume the form 
 of a procession, in order that the situation of the 
 Shah-zada, surrounded by British, Sikh, and 
 Mahomedan troops, should be more fully displayed 
 to the public, as a means of inducing some to 
 blazon forth the irresistible grandeur of his posi- 
 tion, and others to enrol themselves under the 
 Douranee banner. A company of British troops, 
 and likev^ise one from each of the Maharajah's 
 regiments, under Lieut. Corfield, were sent in 
 advance to the new ground, there to be in readi- 
 
^54 ^^^^^ AT PESHAWUR. 
 
 ness to salute the prince on his arrival. Twenty- 
 one guns announced the moment when His Royal 
 Highness mounted his horse, (for after the rebuke 
 of yesterday, he had taken good care to provide him- 
 self with stirrup-leathers,) and were also a signal 
 for the procession to move on, the horse artillery 
 leading the way. A line of Sikh troops, stationed 
 on either side of the road, rising from the bottom 
 of the hill on which Avitabile's mansion is situ- 
 ated, up to the gateway, formed a street for the 
 procession to pass through, both the French gene- 
 rals being present to receive the Prince, and con- 
 duct him to the city. The eminence being steep, 
 the hor^e artillery galloped up, and winding be- 
 neath the walls of the caravanserai, entered the 
 main street of the town, which was just broad 
 enough to allow a passage for the guns, and no 
 more. Crowds were assembled to witness the 
 scene, and the people in the distance eagerly 
 stretched forward to catch a glimpse of the caval- 
 cade as it appeared in sight. All, however, was 
 orderly and quiet no boisterous sounds were emit- 
 ted, and even the hum of conversation was hushed 
 on our approach. Two or three of the governor's 
 
CAMP AT PESHAWUR. ^^^ 
 
 brderlies, who preceded us, directed the inhabit- 
 ants, as we advanced, to sit down a summons 
 which, wherever it could be obeyed, was immedi- 
 ately attended to. The street was neat and clean ; 
 but as a gutter runs down the centre of it, I sus- 
 pect we did not see it in its usual state, and it is 
 more than probable that the stones with which it 
 is paved underwent an extra purification in honour 
 of the present ceremony. The houses are gene- 
 rally three stories high, with flat roofs, in many 
 instances enclosed by a wooden rail ; but they 
 are, with few exceptions, very unsightly, and 
 have a most uncomfortable tottering look about 
 them. The shops, which constitute the lowest 
 stories, were all closed, and the platforms in front 
 of them, where the goods and merchandize of their 
 owners are usually displayed, were now occupied 
 by a dense throng of individuals, who were huddled 
 together as close as it was possible to pack them. 
 We quitted the city by a common-looking gate- 
 way, at a few hundred paces from which stands 
 a large fort, built by Avitabile, on the ruins of 
 the Bala Hissar. A royal salute was fired from 
 the cannon on its ramparts as soon as the Shah* 
 
256 CAMP AT PESHAWmi. 
 
 zada appeared in sight, and the noise , of its 
 thunder had not ceased many minutes ere we 
 reached our new encampment, where the compa- 
 nies under Lieut. Corfield presented arms as soon 
 as the prince approached his tent. On his alight* 
 ing from his horse, the troops were dismissed, 
 and we adjourned to the house of General Court, 
 who had invited us to breakfast. Happily, as 
 the sun was becoming hot, this was at no great 
 distance ; and a breach in his garden wall saved 
 us from the necessity of making a long detour to 
 reach his dwelling, a mud building, of two apart- 
 ments, erected in Ali Murdan's Bagh, where the 
 country seat of that celebrated noble still exists 
 in a habitable state, the family of the French 
 general at present occupying it. 
 
 I was disappointed to find the residence of one 
 whose acts of public spiritedness are attested by 
 numerous magnificent works that have survived 
 the ravages of time, to have no pretensions to 
 architectural beauty, and, indeed, scarcely worthy 
 of a passing glance ; but the character of its 
 founder will ever throw an interest around the pile. 
 Born in Persia, Ali Murdan's talents soon brought 
 
CAMP AT PESHAWUR. 257 
 
 him into notice, arid he was intrusted by Shah 
 Sefi, the monarch of that country, with the go- 
 vernment of Candahar* This honour he had not 
 long enjoyed, when he received intelligence that 
 the king, who was a monster of iniquity, had 
 designs upon his life ; upon which, disgusted 
 at his conduct, and with the revolting acts 
 of cruelty of which he was guilty, Ali Murdan 
 resolved upon transferring his government* to 
 the Emperor of Hindoostan. Shah Jehan, over- 
 joyed at the prospect of this acquisition to his 
 territory, immediately dispatched troops to occupy 
 Candahar, and they succeeded in garrisoning it 
 before the Persian king could offer any opposi- 
 tion the province long afterwards remaining sub- 
 ject to the Mogul. The supreme command at 
 Cashmere was bestowed upon Ali Murdan, as a 
 reward for his services, and he ruled this valuable 
 domain with so much equity and with such satis- 
 faction to the king, that he raised him to the Suba- 
 ship of the Punjab, with power to hold Cashmere 
 by deputy. Honour still awaited him, for he was not 
 long afterwards advanced to the more important 
 
 * The only indefensible act of his life. 
 
25S CAMP AT PESHAWUR. 
 
 post of Cabul, which he governed for some tlme> 
 and showed much personal bravery in conflicts 
 with the Usbec Tartars, parts of whose territory 
 he annexed to the imperial dominions. He was 
 subsequently promoted to the rank of Captain- 
 General of the forces, and died in 1657, when on 
 his way to Cashmere, after having paid the empe- 
 ror a visit at Agra. Notwithstanding the amazing 
 sums of money he expended in public acts of 
 munificence the canal at Delhi, and the Chahar 
 Chuttur, or great bazaar, at Cabul, being amongst 
 the most magnificent, this nobleman died im- 
 mensely rich, leaving behind him a fortune, in 
 jewels and money, amounting, it is said, to 
 1,875,000, which came into the possession of 
 Shah Jehan, who always had regarded him with 
 affection, and ever remained his stanch friend. 
 
 As General Court had been obliging enough to 
 say he should be happy to parade his artillery for 
 my inspection whenever it would be convenient for 
 me to attend, I, a few days subsequent to this, 
 accompanied by Maule, called upon him for the 
 purpose of seeing it. We found him seated at 
 breakfast, but he immediately issued orders for 
 
CAMP AT PESHAWUR. ^59 
 
 his men to assemble, and by the time we reached 
 the cantonments they were drawn up in readiness 
 to receive us. On our arriving in front, they 
 saluted, and the general then directed the native 
 commandant, a fine soldier-like-looking man, hand- 
 somely accoutred, to put them through their drill. 
 This they performed with great credit ; their 
 movements being executed with a celerity and 
 precision that would have done honour to any 
 army. The orders were given in French, and the 
 system of gunnery used by that nation has also 
 been adopted. At the conclusion of the exercise, 
 we walked down the line and inspected the ord- 
 nance. The two guns on the right of the battery 
 were six-pounders, and were the same that Lord 
 William Bentinck had presented to Runjeet Singh 
 at Roopur. The rest were cast by himself from 
 their model, and appear almost equally good. The 
 precise number of pieces we saw I forget, but I 
 think nine, including two small mortars for hill 
 service. We then tried some of his fuzees, which 
 are very good, and burn true ; and his portfires are 
 also tolerable, but when compared with those in 
 use with every other part of the Sikh army, admi- 
 
2Q0 CAMP AT PESHAWX'R. 
 
 rable ; as with the latter^ they are nothing hut 
 cases filled with pounded brimstone indifferently 
 rammed down. All the shot was formed of 
 beaten iron, and cost a rupee each ; and the 
 majority of the shells were composed of pewter, 
 which he told us answered uncommonly well. 
 When it is considered that all we saw was the 
 work of the general's own knowledge, and we re- 
 flect on the difficulties he has had to surmount, it 
 is a matter almost of wonder to behold the per- 
 fection to which he has brought his artillery. 
 
 The men dress something like our own horse 
 artillery, except that, instead of helmets, they 
 wear red turbans, (the jemadars or officers' being 
 of silk,) which hang down so as to cover the back 
 part of the neck ; white trowsers, with long boots ; 
 black waist and cross belts ; and black leather scab- 
 bard with brass ornaments. Both their appoint- 
 ments and accoutrements were kept in high order, 
 and formed a pleasing contrast to the artillery that 
 were present during the inspection on the first of 
 April. 
 
 We adjourned to Mons. Court's house, where we 
 were refreshed with a delicious glass of sherbet. 
 
CAMP AT PESHAWUR. ggl 
 
 more grateful, as the sun out of doors had scorched 
 us with its rays ; and after a short time we bade 
 him farewell, having been much satisfied with our 
 visit. 
 
 I rode with Captain Farmer to the Wuzeer 
 Bagh, one of the many celebrated gardens in the 
 neighbourhood of Peshawur, and which were in all 
 their loveliness w^hen Elphinstone was welcomed 
 to the court of Shah Shoojah. A change may 
 with truth be said to have come over the scene, 
 for with the exception of two or three, the rest 
 are neglected, and have run to ruin. We had to 
 traverse a part of the city, which was not at all 
 raised in my estimation by a second visit ; the 
 back streets being dirty, narrow, and confined ; 
 and the main thoroughfare far from retaining that 
 aspect of cleanliness it bore when we first saw it. 
 The comparatively few individuals we met there 
 did not realise the idea we had formed of a bustling 
 and a thriving bazaar, and seemed a strange con- 
 trast to the dense mass of faces that had then lined 
 it. We were, however, at the least frequented end 
 of the city, and, perhaps, may not have arrived at 
 
202 CAMP AT PESHAWUR. 
 
 the most business stirring hours. Whilst pro- 
 ceeding along one of the most gloomy streets in 
 the environs, a figure, shrouded to all appearance 
 in grave clothes, crossed our path ; and I then 
 beheld for the first time a costume invariably used 
 by the women of Persia and AfFghanistan whenever 
 they move beyond the threshold of their homes. 
 A long and loose white robe entirely conceals the 
 figure of the wearer ; and a thick veil, with two or 
 three small apertures of net work to breathe and 
 see through, effectually conceals her features from 
 the forbidden gaze of man. 
 
 As we approached the garden, we passed a 
 funeral procession, attended by a numerous body 
 of men chanting a dirge, and preceded by others 
 who carried five trays of different coloured cloths, 
 as offerings ; but there was no solemnity whatever 
 in the scene ; and we, being strangers in the land, 
 attracted more of their attention than they devoted 
 to the ceremony in which they were engaged. Hap- 
 pening to pass the grave on the following morn- 
 ing, I observed it to be surrounded by a number 
 of mourners, all women, who were huddled close 
 
CAMP AT PESHAWUR. 26S 
 
 together ; but they manifested the same indiffer- 
 ence as was exhibited by the train who had fol- 
 lowed the corpse to its last resting-place. 
 
 The Wuzeer Bagh is enclosed by two lofty mud 
 walls, and though much neglected, still retains 
 some impress of its former elegance and beauty. 
 The ground is laid out similar to all Eastern gar- 
 dens, the square being divided into four equal 
 compartments by fountains and walks ; and the 
 never-failing lines of cypress trees, with their dark 
 foliage, looked well, contrasted with the lighter 
 coloured leaves of the mulberry or weeping 
 willow, with which they were intermixed. Be- 
 neath them were parterres, in which grew poppies, 
 wall-flowers, and stocks ; and the brilliancy of their 
 colours aided in no small measure to increase 
 the lively appearance of the scene. The several 
 buildings that once ornamented the grounds have 
 already been struck by the mouldering hand of 
 time ; some of them even will soon be a heap of 
 ruins, and a confused medley of disjointed frag- 
 ments will hereafter be all to remind the spectator 
 of sites once occupied by the luxurious bath or 
 voluptuous pleasure-house. Years have rolled by 
 
2Q4f CAMP AT PESHAWUR. 
 
 since the locality was first used as a retreat from 
 the bustle and turmoils of the day ; but its hours 
 of repose and quiet have also long passed, and the 
 clang of the hammer on the anvil, the vocifera- 
 tions of the workmen, and the ribald talk of mer- 
 cenary soldiers, are now heard where, formerly, 
 the joyous mirth of some light-hearted inmates 
 of the harem was re-echoed, before " grim-visaged 
 war" drove their masters from home and country. 
 
 The Wuzeer Bagh, which had been desecrated 
 by the Sikhs, now, in fact, forms our arsenal, 
 and was the spot selected by Dr. Lord for his 
 residence previous to Colonel Wade's arrival ; 
 indeed, it is better known to us as " Lord's 
 workshop," than by its proper name. Cannon, 
 rifles, bullets, and all sorts of destructive imple- 
 ments were progressing towards completion during 
 our visit, and are for the equipment of the levies 
 now being raised for the Shah-zada. Those from 
 amongst the Khyberries are quartered in this 
 agreeable spot, and groups of them were to be 
 seen sauntering along the terraces, their thick 
 hobnail shoes jarring the ear as they scraped the 
 smooth surface of the pavement; whilst their 
 
CAMP AT PESHAWUR. gg5 
 
 rough-looking features, and tall, gaunt, but ath- 
 letic figures, armed with the jhezail and long 
 knife, or sword and shield, harmonized with the 
 warlike preparations and the existing state of 
 the gardens, in other days, would have been 
 ill suited to appear in a place evidently dedi- 
 cated to peace, and where all ought to have 
 been lovely, soft, and beautiful. A gateway, in 
 the centre of the wall, on the left-hand side, ad- 
 mitted us within a building now converted into a 
 stable ; and hastily passing through it, we entered 
 another compartment of the gardens, equal in 
 extent, and laid out in a similar manner to the 
 first, except that there were no cypresses, and the 
 water had entirely forsaken the fountains. Nu- 
 merous orange and citron trees, however, com- 
 pensated for the absence of the former ; and the 
 deep vshades formed by their thick foliage pre- 
 sented retreats too cool and inviting to be unoc- 
 cupied; but the tenants were horse-dealers, who, 
 seemingly as a matter of course, had stalled their 
 horses on every available spot. 
 
 It was, I think, on the 7th, when the Generals 
 Avitabile and Court were breakfasting with us, 
 
 N 
 
2QQ CAMP AT PESHAWUR. 
 
 that the Shah-zada was pleased to transfer from 
 his own royal table to that of the Colonel's a 
 number of cooked dishes, which plainly show 
 the AfFghans to be perfect adepts in the culinary 
 art, although they do not profess to follow Mons. 
 Ude as their model. A sucking lamb, roasted 
 whole, and stuffed with prunes, raisins, almonds, 
 and other delicacies, called forth our especial 
 praises, and the sweet ** kabaubs," which were 
 innumerable, were also pronounced to be more 
 than agreeable by those who tasted them. 
 
 The Governor having volunteered to show us 
 the fort of Peshawur, four or five of us rode there 
 in the afternoon, and found him in readiness to 
 receive us. He was attended by numerous guards 
 and by his two Affghan boys, who were mounted 
 on ponies and armed with small sabres slung round 
 their waists, and with daggers stuck in their belts. 
 After proceeding through a street, formed by a 
 squadron or two of dragoons, and passing beneath 
 a lofty and castellated gateway in the northern face, 
 we turned sharply to the left, and cantered up a 
 paved ramp that leads to the highest of the three 
 stories, of which the fort may be said to consist, the 
 
CAMP AT PESHAWUR. ^67 
 
 causeway being of breadth sufficient to admit of the 
 Governor driving his carriage and four to the sum- 
 mit. Troops were stationed at the different angles, 
 who turned out and presented arms as we rode by. 
 In the second tier are ranges of very comfortable 
 barracks ; and wells to supply the garrison with 
 water during a siege are to be met with every 
 here and there. On the top compartment, in 
 addition to an incompleted citadel, are buildings 
 for his magazines and store-rooms ; the latter he 
 threw open for our examination, and a vast num- 
 ber of ten-inch shells at one end of a gallery, and 
 a complete hill of bullets at the other, besides 
 lead and other requisites to make up materiel, 
 plainly prove that a warm reception would be 
 given to an attacking party. Cannons of different 
 calibre were mounted on the ramparts, and nu- 
 merous workmen were busily engaged in levelling 
 the irregular ground wherever it was necessary. 
 The fort is far from being in a finished state, and 
 the ditch which encircles it has yet to be cleared 
 out and deepened. 
 
 Having satisfied our curiosity, we adjourned to 
 some capital apartments of the Governor's, situated 
 
 n2 
 
2(]g CAMP AT PESHAWUR. 
 
 over a fine gateway, through which ingress is 
 obtained from the first to the second compartment, 
 and here we found the hospitable General had 
 provided a light refreshment for us. We hastily 
 partook of it, and then, mounting our horses, 
 galloped round the northern and eastern walls of 
 the city to the parade ground, where the Sikh 
 troops were drawn up for Avitabile's last inspec- 
 tion ; the command of the forces being about to 
 devolve on General Ventura, whose arrival is 
 daily expected. The sun had sunk into the far 
 west before we reached the spot, and the rapidly 
 deepening twilight scarcely admitted of our seeing 
 the well-mounted and stalwart cuirassiers, or of 
 noticing the regular step of the infantry as they 
 marched by in review order. Before we neared 
 the city, on our return, total darkness had come 
 on ; but the Governor having ordered a number of 
 link-men to be in attendance, their torch^es were 
 ignited, and we proceeded to camp under a blaze 
 of light sufficient to have formed an illumination. 
 
 Most of the mornings and evenings were now 
 occupied in admitting volunteers into the service 
 of the Shah-zada ; and so many Douranee horse- 
 
CAMP AT PESHAWUR. 
 
 269 
 
 men presented themselves to be enrolled, that it 
 became necessary to select only those whose steeds 
 and arms were better than of ordinary description. 
 Several chiefs, who came for this purpose, at- 
 tended by their clansmen, formed fine specimens 
 of the rude and predatory soldier ; their manly 
 and tall figures being generally enveloped in the 
 folds of a crimson chogah, embroidered with gold, 
 which, opening in front, displayed a cummurbund 
 studded with pistols and knives, or an arm pro- 
 tected by a steel gauntlet, which reached to the 
 elbow, and was terminated at the hand by a flex- 
 ible glove of chain rings. To Maule and myself 
 fell the lot of instructing some dozen and a half of 
 individuals in the British method of gunnery, 
 and our crew consisted of a most motley group, 
 enlisted by twos and threes, as we could collect 
 them; the basis of the. set being formed by three 
 deserters from Dost Mahommed Khan, to each 
 of whom the Colonel gave dresses of honour as 
 an inducement for others to follow their example. 
 These robes, evidences of their disgrace and per- 
 fidy, they were not ashamed to wear ; and the 
 bright green colour, of which they were composed, 
 
270 CAMP AT PESHAWUR. 
 
 rendered the traitors very conspicuous. Pro- 
 fessing to be topchees, or artillerymen, we directed 
 them to go through the gun exercise as it is 
 performed in Affghanistan ; and the odd jumps 
 and quavers they made when at drill but ill 
 accorded with our ideas of parade decorum. They 
 had evidently been accustomed to serve cannon, 
 and could we have dismissed from our minds the 
 idea of their having been " numuk huram," (lit. 
 unfaithful to their salt,) we might possibly have 
 been gratified with the attainments of our re- 
 cruits. 
 
 General Ventura arrived at Peshawur on the 
 11th of April, and breakfasted with us on the 
 13th. He is a gentlemanly-looking person, rather 
 haughty in his manner, and bears a high character 
 as a soldier. 
 
 On the 14th, a mutiny occurred in the Nujeeb 
 regiment, which but too plainly showed how slight 
 was the discipline that existed amongst the Sikhs, 
 and very forcibly exhibited to us the qualities of 
 the allies who are to co-operate with us when 
 required. I have already alluded to the little 
 authority possessed by Colonel Jacob over his men. 
 
CAMP AT PESHAWUR. 27 { 
 
 They had now become altogether dissatisfied with 
 him, and, taking the law into their own hands, 
 had turned him and his adjutant out of their 
 camp, levelled their tents with the ground, and 
 declared they would have nothing more to do 
 with either of them. As a mark of respect for 
 their Colonel, they inverted his chair on the spot 
 where he usually sat, and then, having shotted 
 their guns, quietly awaited the results of their 
 misconduct. Dislike to the officers they had 
 thus summarily got rid of, want of pay, and 
 the unfair manner in which they have been sent 
 to Peshawur, (their present appearance in this 
 province being the third within a very short 
 period,) were amongst the alleged causes of griev- 
 ance ; but to show they had no ill-will towards 
 us, they planted their sentries as usual, at sunset ; 
 and when directed to parade by Colonel Wade, 
 did so at once. He, however, told them they 
 could no longer form a part of his camp, and in 
 a few days they removed from their ground, I 
 believe, to the Sikh cantonments. 
 
 On the 23rd, the sun was rising unobscured by 
 a single cloud, as we galloped on to a plain where 
 
212 CAMP AT PESHAWUR. 
 
 General Court's troops were assembled in review 
 order for our inspection. After riding down the 
 line, we adjourned to a flat-roofed building, over 
 which an awning had been spread, and where 
 chairs had been provided for our accommodation. 
 This was certainly taking things easy ; but as the 
 situation was favourable, and the morning some- 
 what close and sultry, we did not object to the 
 arrangement. Three regiments of infantry, with 
 a six-pounder gun between each, and a couple on 
 either flank, formed his brigade, which was drilled 
 by a native officer, the words of command being 
 given in French ; and the excellent and steady 
 manner in which the mancxjuvres were performed, 
 could not have been easily surpassed. At the 
 conclusion of the review, the native officers were 
 called up and presented to Wade, who compli- 
 mented them on the efficiency of their regiments ; 
 and one, who was quite lame, from a wound he 
 had received at the action of Jumrood, when ques- 
 tioned about it, was anxious to enter into a long 
 detail relative to the matter ; but by a little tact 
 we managed to escape the infliction. 
 
 April 26th. This morning, a thundering can- 
 
CAMP AT PESHAWUR. ^73 
 
 nonade in all directions announced the arrival at 
 Peshawur of Koi-nownihal Singh, the Maharajah's 
 grandson, and commander-in-chief. Colonel Wade 
 having intimated that it was his desire to pay the 
 Prince a visit in the evening, the Rajah Lena Singh, 
 with three elephants and a large train of horse- 
 men, was sent to conduct him to the durbar tent, 
 situated about four miles distant. At six p. m., 
 attended by a large escort, and all his officers in full 
 uniform, the Colonel left camp : our cortege form- 
 ing no inconsiderable body, increased as it was by 
 the presence of the Sikh sawarree. On nearing the 
 royal tents, where a large assemblage of troops, 
 comprising artillery, cavalry, and infantry, was 
 drawn up, the soldiers presented arms, and the 
 batteries fired a salute. The latter, however, was 
 not at all well arranged, as the guns were pointed 
 at us, instead of in any other direction ; and being 
 at no great distance, we experienced a jarring shock 
 by no means pleasant, either to ourselves or horses ; 
 many of the steeds evincing, by their restiveness, 
 an eager desire to escape such near contact. 
 
 At the entrance to the durbar court, a deputa- 
 tion, consisting of General Ventura and a partv 
 
 N 3 
 
274 CAMP AT FESHAWUR. 
 
 of nobles, received the Colonel, and conducted 
 us to the chief, who advanced to the edge of a 
 white cotton carpet, and shook hands with Wade, 
 who afterwards introduced us. The Prince then 
 motioned us to chairs on his right hand, those on 
 his left being subsequently occupied by six of his 
 chief sirdars, ranged according to their rank. On 
 his extreme left sat Rajah Gholab Singh, one of 
 the best of Runjeet's officers, and second in com- 
 mand. He is a tall, powerful-looking man, very 
 polite and unassuming in his manners, though he 
 has the credit of being wily, and by no means 
 friendly to the English, notwithstanding his pro- 
 fessions. Next in order was the Sultan Mahomed, 
 brother to Dost Mahomed Khan, the Ameer of 
 Cabul, but at enmity with him, increased, I be- 
 lieve, by the latter having retained one of his 
 favourite wives. He was enveloped in the folds 
 of a long shawl robe, and wore the large AfTghan 
 turban ; but his dress was by no means handsome. 
 His countenance was dull and heavy, and his 
 complexion stained by the pallid and sallow hue 
 of indisposition. Once the ruler of Peshawur, 
 but now a sirdar of the Maharajah's, he must 
 
CAMP AT PESHAWUR. 275 
 
 have felt it peculiarly mortifying to have been 
 seated amidst the conquerors of his country, and 
 compelled, by dire necessity, to take part in their 
 rejoicings. The chair on his left vv^as occupied 
 by the Rajah Lena Singh. He is a youngish- 
 looking man, with a large bushy black beard, and 
 is spoken of as being a scientific person. Beside 
 him was the Rajah Ayah Singh, a comical indivi- 
 dual, dressed plainly in the Sikh costume, and 
 who had such a merry twinkle about his eyes, 
 that on regarding them, one could scarce refrain 
 from laughing. Shaum Singh, the father-in-law 
 of Nownihal, sat next him, a stout, easy-going 
 man; and last of all came the son of the late 
 Hurri Singh, some twenty-four or twenty-five 
 years old. Behind the Prince's chair, which was 
 of silver, stood General Ventura, and on his right 
 and left a whole host of the great. 
 
 The Koonwur, Nao Nihal Singh, is a young 
 man about twenty years of age, with rather an 
 intelligent, though by no means handsome coun- 
 tenance, and, unlike our Shah-zada, appeaj'ed 
 quite accustomed to the scenes of royalty. His 
 dress was covered with most magnificent jewelsj 
 
276 CAMP AT PESHAWUR. 
 
 and on his right arm he wore two bracelets, com- 
 posed of large diamonds, a necklace of the same 
 precious stones hanging across his chest. His 
 tunic, which was of plain white calico, with skirts, 
 like a flounced petticoat, reached to the knees ; 
 his nether man being encased in crimson silk pae- 
 jamahs, closely fitting to the limbs. He had slipped 
 his feet into a pair of white cotton stockings, but 
 was without shoes ; we, however, kept on our 
 boots, which left their prints on the snow-white 
 floorcloth as we stepped across it. 
 
 The durbar was held in an oblong area, enclosed 
 by high kanauts ; at the east and west extremities 
 of which were two small tents facing each other. 
 In front of these were semianas, supported by 
 poles encased with ornamented silver, and under 
 that, to the west, was a smaller one, pitched below 
 the larger, beneath which the Prince sat. Troops 
 were ranged all round the interior of the kanauts, 
 seated on white carpets about four feet broad. 
 These soldiers were armed with matchlocks, and 
 preserved an immovable stillness throughout the 
 ceremony. During our visit, the conversation was 
 kept up entirely by the Colonel and Nownihal 
 
CAMP AT PESHAWUR. Q77 
 
 Singh, except our occasional remarks to one an- 
 other, or a word or two which Wade addressed 
 to some of the chief sirdars. At the expiration 
 of half an hour we arose to take leave, on which 
 the Prince conducted Colonel Wade to the ex- 
 tremity of the carpet, and then presented him 
 with an indifferently caparisoned horse, the whole 
 turn-out being worth about one pound sterling. 
 
 Our departure was marked by a salute similar 
 to that on our arrival; and, though nearly dark, 
 we proceeded to the tents of the Rajah Gholab 
 Singh, whose visit the Colonel was desirous to 
 return. His encampment was situated about 
 three quarters of a mile from the Prince's, and 
 occupied a garden ; at one corner of which a 
 party of horsemen, habited in steel caps, exactly 
 like barbers' basins in shape, was drawn up, and 
 presented arms as we passed by. At the entrance, 
 a company of infantry also saluted us, and two 
 guns announced our arrival. The ceremonies 
 gone through at this durbar were very similar to 
 those at Nownihal's, though not on such a scale 
 of splendour ; but a much better horse than that 
 of the Prince's, with a jhezail, or rifle, and a pair 
 
278 CAMP AT PESHAWUR. 
 
 of blunderbuss pistols, manufactured at Cashmere, 
 was conferred upon Wade when he departed. We 
 returned to camp by torchlight. 
 
 Jpril 27th, Sultan Mahomed Khan sent the 
 Colonel, this morning, a dozen of camels com- 
 pletely equipped with jinjalls, a species of small 
 cannon, that carry a ball of about a pound weight; 
 and these are for the purpose of being used against 
 his brother, the Ameer of Cabul. The headstalls 
 and harness of the animals being decorated with 
 cowries tastily displayed, and the other appoint- 
 ments being constructed of the brightest and most 
 gay colours, they will make, if not a most useful, 
 certainly a most ornamental addition to oui' camp. 
 
 A number of Mussulmans from Rajah Gholab 
 Singh's regiments were also admitted to-day, and 
 are to form part of an expedition, which is to 
 consist of between 600 and 800 foot soldiers, and 
 about 200 cavalry, to be sent against Sadut Khan, 
 a refractory chief, who has thought proper to levy 
 black mail upon an embassy that the Shah-zada 
 despatched a short time ago in his direction. It 
 is expected that matters will be so far arranged 
 as to allow of the force starting in a day or two. 
 
CAMP AT PESHAWUR. ^79 
 
 After a long continuance of dry weather, we 
 were favoured in the afternoon with a refreshing 
 shower ; but the sun had no sooner set than the 
 rain came down in torrents, and continued to pour 
 without intermission for some hours. It was my 
 turn of duty ; and as I went the rounds at night, 
 the state of discipline, or rather the want of it, 
 amongst the Shah-zada's levies and irregulars 
 was most lamentably conspicuous. One half of 
 the sentries had forsaken their posts, and were 
 found snugly ensconced in their tents, whither 
 they had sought refuge from the pitiless pelting 
 of the storm; and it was with the greatest diffi- 
 culty I could persuade them there was more 
 necessity to be on the alert during such a night 
 than when the elements are calm and serene. 
 On this occasion the lightning was extremely 
 vivid, and quite obscured the pale moon-beams 
 as they shot through an opening in the clouds, 
 whilst the wind suddenly chopping round to the 
 north, hurried by with extreme violence, and felt 
 as if emitted from a furnace, although but a few 
 minutes before it had been blowing from the west, 
 with a chilliness almost unpleasant 
 
280 ^ CAMP AT PESHAWUR, 
 
 April 28th.' Whilst at breakfast this morning, 
 the Colonel received a letter from Cabul or Can- 
 dahar, the contents of which we longed to make 
 ourselves masters of, but it was no use ; there were 
 secrets in it only for the initiated, and although 
 he showed it to us, yet being penned in hierogly- 
 phics, our curiosity was doomed to remain un- 
 satisfied. It did not, however, require much of 
 a physiognomist to find out that the news was 
 satisfactory, and so far all is well. It was brought 
 by a spy, who had carried it tied as an armlet 
 wrapped in wax cloth ; a precaution most necessary 
 to observe, as Dost Mahomed's people have of late 
 become so suspicious that it is difficult to elude 
 their vagilance. A good method of carrying secret 
 despatches, which is practised in these parts, is to 
 have the letter baked in a chapatie, or cake, as the 
 person, when suspected, can swallow the paper, and 
 thus avoid detection. On such occasions, however, 
 an emetic has been known to be administered, and 
 the individual compelled, though sorehj against his 
 will, to bring up the communication. Another 
 way is to make the despatch serve as a pistol wad, 
 when it can be fired off or drawn as advisable. 
 
CAMP AT PESHAWUR. gg] 
 
 The persons whom Wade usually employs as spies 
 are his chupars, or mounted messengers, who dis- 
 guise themselves inimitably ; and it was only the 
 other day that two returned from a successful visit 
 to Jullalabad, whither they had gone dressed, or 
 rather undressed^ as fakeers ; for I believe they 
 were not encumbered with many clothes. Most 
 of these men are wild and daring fellows, apt to 
 quarrel, and by no means slow at drawing their 
 weapons, especially when their opponents are 
 either Sikhs or Hindoos. 
 
 A specimen of the animosity that exists between 
 the chupars, who are all Mussulmans, and these 
 sects, was exhibited in our camp, and was nigh 
 being attended with fatal consequences. It oc- 
 curred as follows. An order had been issued by 
 Colonel Wade, prohibiting the admittance of any 
 armed person into our encampment, the interdict 
 being of course only applicable to strangers, 
 when a Ghoorka, who chanced to be sentry on the 
 main street, chose to interpret the order in its 
 literal sense, and opposed the entrance of a couple 
 of chupars, who were returning from some duty 
 or another on which they had been sent. The 
 
282 CAMP AT PESHAWUR. 
 
 uniform of Wade's personal guards was well known 
 to every one, and the affray that ensued must con- 
 sequently have originated in the ill feeling that 
 existed between the parties. The chupars insisted 
 on their right to admittance, which was as lirmly 
 denied by the sentinel. From words they came to 
 abuse, till at length one of the messengers drew his 
 sabre. A number of Ghoorka soldiers, whose 
 tents were in the immediate vicinity of the scene 
 of dispute, observing the danger of their compa- 
 nion, flew to his assistance, and a tremendous 
 uproar followed. Being officer of the day, I ran 
 to see what the matter was ; and on pushing through 
 the crowd that had now assembled, the first object 
 that met my gaze was the elder of the chupars, 
 stretched, apparently lifeless, on the ground, with a 
 deep sword gash across his head, from which the 
 blood flowed profusely. I immediately despatched 
 a message to the captain of the week, informing 
 him of the circumstance, and he too having been 
 roused by the disturbance, was soon on the spot. 
 By this time the friends of either party had come 
 in, and the Ghoorka sepoys, to support their 
 comrades, beat to arms. Without further ado, 
 
CAMP AT PESIIAWUR. 2HS 
 
 they loaded their muskets, and presented them, 
 some being levelled at us ; and I am convinced, had 
 their opponents but struck a blow, we should have 
 been sacrificed to the blindness of their fury. After 
 being sent for several times, the adjutant of their re- 
 giment made his appearance ; and on being directed 
 to order his men to return to their tents, did so, 
 though with marked reluctance. The chupar was 
 then conveyed to the doctor, who pronounced the 
 wound to be severe, but not mortal ; and, having 
 sewed up his scalp, had him carried to the hospital. 
 Thus terminated an affray, which at one time 
 promised to be somewhat bloody, and I believe the 
 Ghoorka who was most concerned in it escaped 
 with merely a nominal punishment. 
 
 Somewhere about the beginning of May,the Colo- 
 nel received intimation on which he could depend, 
 (but not official,) that Candahar had been occupied 
 by the army of the Indus, and he, in consequence, 
 ordered a royal salute to be fired from every piece 
 of ordnance in camp. As we had ten or twelve 
 guns altogether, our rejoicings on the occasion 
 made a most uproarious noise, which was added to 
 by the Sikhs, who, on hearing of the success of our 
 
234 CAMP AT PESHAWUR. 
 
 arms, set to work also, and blazed away from the 
 fort as well as from their several cantonments. In 
 the evening the Shah-zada held a durbar to re- 
 ceive our congratulations on the victory, and we 
 were each favoured with presents according to our 
 rank, my share being a pair of black Cashmere 
 shawls, and a crimson pashmeena chogah, orna- 
 mented with gold embroidery. As the latter 
 articles of dress were thrown over our slioulders, it 
 was well the darkness of night had in some measure 
 advanced, or I know not how long we should have 
 retained our gravity, the figures we cut were so 
 absurdly ridiculous ; indeed, a suppressed tittering 
 in the most obscure corner of the tent almost 
 totally upset the MooUah-like solemnity of coun- 
 tenance that those of us in its neighbourhood were 
 striving to conjure up ; whilst here and there the 
 convulsive movements of a body would betray the 
 workings that were going on in the inner man to 
 preserve that external appearance of decorum, so 
 necessary for the part we were playing. Some 
 wore cocked hats ; others chakoes, which harmo- 
 nized most ludicrously with bright kim-khwab, or 
 yellow dresses; and it was a perfect relief when 
 
CAMP AT PESHAWUR. 285 
 
 we took our departure, and were enabled to indulge 
 in a hearty cachinnation at our pantomime figures, 
 after it had been so long pent up. On examining 
 our presents, when the durbar was concluded, 
 several of us found that both our chogahs and 
 shawls had been worn by their previous owners, 
 and mine more especially, as a black rim round the 
 neck of the former marked where it had come in 
 contact with a greasy beard. We could, therefore, 
 make no use of them, and as the Toshah-khanah 
 was in want of such articles, the majority of us 
 sold them, and I for mine obtained 130 rupees. 
 
 The weather had now become oppressively warm 
 under canvas, and as the Colonel could only pro- 
 cure a few kuss kuss tatties, one of which he was 
 kind enough to give to me, camels were daily sent 
 out to bring in jowasa, a species of prickly bush, 
 which, when wetted, makes a capital substitute, 
 though to me it has a rather unpleasant smell. 
 Wade himself has a tent entirely composed of kuss 
 kuss, sent to him, I believe, by General Ventura, 
 and its extremely cool temperature is very delight- 
 ful when compared with the furnace-like atmo- 
 sphere without. 
 
2S6 CAMP AT PESHAWUR. 
 
 Notwithstanding Avitabile administers justice 
 with a strong hand, murders are still committed in 
 the neighbourhood of Peshawur ; and the other 
 night, within a few yards of our camp, a poor 
 grasscutter was cruelly cut off. The foul deed 
 must have been perpetrated from the pure love of 
 shedding blood, as the class of natives to which the 
 victim belonged never possess any money, and 
 wear scarcely a rag ; and the hope, therefore, of 
 obtaining plunder, could not in the present in- 
 stance have instigated the wretches to commit the 
 atrocious act. Such occurrences are, however, far 
 too common in the district to create surprise, and 
 the blood-thirsty disposition of the Affghan is but 
 too manifest in the number of gallows that it 
 has been deemed necessary to erect in the 
 environs of the city. These are constructed of 
 sufficient size to accommodate some five or six 
 malefactors at a time ; and after they have sufiered 
 the extreme penalty of the law, their bodies, instead 
 of being cut down and removed, are allowed to 
 remain on the gibbets, until they either drop to 
 pieces, or are ransomed by their friends. The 
 number of corpses, stiffened into the attitudes they 
 
CAMP AT PESHAWUR. ^q ^ 
 
 assumed when convulsed with the last agonies of 
 death, or suspended (as some are) by the feet, that 
 are thus presented to the gaze of a stranger, renders 
 a visit to the suburbs of Peshawur far from agree- 
 able : but disgusting as these exhibitions are, it is 
 to be feared that without them there would be 
 safety neither for life nor property. Indeed, the 
 benefit of this terrible severity is already being felt, 
 as the unruly tribes under the Governor's control 
 are becoming sensible of the necessity of either 
 subduing their evil passions, or of suffering the 
 punishment that they now see will certainly follow 
 the commission of crime ; and the monthly average 
 number of murdered victims, though still numerous, 
 is nothing to what it was a few years back. 
 
 Before leaving Peshawur, Prince Nownihal 
 Singh returned the Colonel's visit. Lord and Cun- 
 ningham having been deputed to escort him to 
 camp. A large sawarrie of elephants, on the first 
 of which the Prince and Rajah Gholab Singh were 
 seated, and a numerous body of horse and foot, 
 formed the procession. The Koonwur was received 
 with all due honours, and led to the durbar tent, 
 attended by the same chiefs whom we had seen 
 
23^ CAMP AT PESHAWUR. 
 
 with him before. As it was late in the evening 
 w^hen he arrived, darkness soon supervened, and 
 one of Wade's servants, imagining that candles 
 must be necessary, was bringing in a pair at the 
 time the Colonel, General Ventura, and the Prince, 
 were holding a conversation on some important 
 affair in a whisper. " Lejao," " take away," was the 
 colonel's immediate mandate, fearful, it may be 
 supposed, that on this occasion light would prove a 
 conductor of sound, and thus reveal to us the secret 
 negociation that was going on ; but the seivant 
 misinterpreting the command, went round to the 
 side entrance, and again brought them in. Again 
 was the "Lejao" \ociferated, but to no pur- 
 pose ; the stupid menial returned to the door 
 he first came in at, and was a third time entering 
 with the obnoxious candles, when another and a 
 louder order, followed by a few complhnents paid 
 to the sharpness of his intellects, at last induced 
 him to take his departure for good, and compelled 
 him to cease his endeavours to throw light on a 
 subject with w^hich he had no business. The 
 cortege, as it departed by torchlight, looked ex- 
 tremely well. The jewels of the nobles, and the 
 
CAMP AT PESHAWUR. gg9 
 
 polished arms of the matchlockmen, glistening with 
 a brilliancy that added much to heighten the 
 splendour of the cavalcade, as it gradually dis- 
 appeared from our sight. A royal salute marked 
 the Prince's arrival and departure. 
 
 Recording this, reminds me of a circumstance 
 that occurred when the Rajah Gholab Singh 
 visited Colonel Wade, on which occasion the 
 boasting arrogance of some Khalsa* soldiers met 
 with an unexpected rebuff. On all visits of cere- 
 mony, the howitzers, being the only British pieces 
 of ordnance in camp, were used to fire salutes, 
 and though but ill adapted for the purpose, it was 
 deemed more complimentary than employing the 
 Maharajah's guns. As the Rajah Gholab Singh 
 had entered the durbar tent before the salute, 
 with which he was honoured, had concluded, a 
 number of his guards assembled near the battery 
 and freely commented on the inferiority, as they 
 termed it, of the Feringee cannon : " What use 
 will such things as these be in the Khyber pass ?" 
 remarked one. " Why the roar from one of the 
 
 Khalsas' guns will drown the sound of two of 
 
 * Another name for the Sikhs, 
 
 O 
 
g90 CAMP AT PESHAWUR. 
 
 these together," said a second ; whilst a third, more 
 emboldened than the rest, ventured to ask how 
 much powder formed the charge. I had been 
 amused with the conceited nature of their remarks, 
 and was too happy in being able to reply : " Ex- 
 actly double the quantity we use in our own 
 pro^dnces, but the cartridges are filled with Sikh 
 powder, which accounts for the indifference of the 
 reports." They said not a word after this. 
 
 On the 9th of May our camp was moved to a 
 spot of ground just beyond the deserted village 
 of Takkal, which is situated about eight miles to 
 the west of Peshawur, and, from its closer proxi- 
 mity to the Khyber hills, it is proportionally 
 warmer, the thermometer having risen the first 
 day to 105 in tent, with tatties. At our last 
 encampment I do not recollect it to have exceeded 
 1 02. The right front of our position was formed 
 by the ruins of the Badshah's tope ; one of those 
 singular constructions, which, like that at Manik- 
 yala, are attributed to Alexander the Great, or 
 his immediate successors. 
 
CHAPTER IX. 
 
 CAMP AT KOULSIR. 
 
 May 9th, As it had been confidently asserted 
 on all sides, that, as soon as ever we took up a 
 position at Takkal, the Khyberries would attack 
 us in force, every precaution that is necessary to 
 guard against a surprise has been put into requi- 
 sition, and it is now in orders, that the subaltern 
 officer of the day shall go the rounds twice during 
 each night. General Ventura has also been 
 appointed to the command of the Sikh auxiliary 
 force, and our camp is, in consequence, formed 
 into two portions ; the Shah-zada, with the 
 British detachments and his own levies, being 
 on the right, and separated from the Maharajah's 
 troops, who are on the left, by the main street 
 extending between them. The sun had not long 
 
 o 2 
 
292 CAMP AT KOULSIR. 
 
 disappeared beneath the horizon, when one of 
 those terrible dust-storms, so pecuh'ar to the East, 
 set in with much violence and continued through- 
 out the night. At ten p. m., being officer of the 
 day, (there are but three of us for this duty, so it 
 comes round pretty often,) I started on the rounds 
 in a darkness that might have been felty so loaded 
 was the atmosphere with particles of sand, and, by 
 dint of much scrambling and groping, at last 
 reached one of the pickets. Progressing onwards, 
 as I and my escort considered in the most proper 
 direction for another, we were suddenly stunned 
 by the shouts of " Qui vive ! qui vive !" on all 
 sides, and up started a guard of the Sikh camp, 
 into which we had stumbled, and where certainly 
 we had no business. It was some moments ere 
 I could assure the Khalsas we were friends, and, 
 as they seemed half inclined, in their sleepy state, 
 to doubt my assertion, the havildar who accom- 
 panied me whispered, " Sahib, we had better get 
 out of this as soon as possible, for these fellows 
 are such paguls (fools) that they will, in their 
 fright, shoot us, and declare they took us for 
 Khyberries." I agreed with him ; so, once more 
 
CAMP AT KOULSIR. 293 
 
 setting our faces in, as we supposed, a direct 
 line for the second picket, we recommenced our 
 search. It was in vain, however. After the lapse 
 of some time we were brought up by the flag-staff 
 in the very centre of the camp ; so giving it up as 
 a bad job, I dismissed the men to their tents, 
 which were close at hand, and, three hours after- 
 wards, met with better success. 
 
 A few days subsequent to our removal to Tak- 
 kal. Lieutenant Mackeson* arrived with about a 
 hundred Moultanies, whom he had succeeded in 
 enrolling for the Shah-zada's service, and who 
 made an equally ragamuflin-like appearance as 
 the other irregular levies. In his capacity of 
 British agent for the navigation of the Indus, he 
 had joined Sir Henry Fane and the army on its 
 reaching Bhawalpore, but he is now to remain 
 with our camp, and assist Colonel Wade with the 
 political duties. 
 
 On the 13th or 14th, we marched to Koulsir, 
 a mile and a half in advance of our position at 
 Takkal ; but the Sikhs, under General Ventura, 
 remain on their old ground ; an arrangement very 
 
 * Now Brevet-major Mackeson, C.B. 
 
f^94 CAMP AT KOULSIR. 
 
 much for the better. In front of our new en- 
 campment, an arid and stony plain, seemingly 
 unspotted by a single patch of cultivation, ex- 
 tends to the base of the Khyber range, whilst, 
 directly before us, the white citadel of the Sikh 
 fortress of Futtehgurh is occasionally to be seen 
 through the thick haze, and marks the entrance 
 to the celebrated pass. 
 
 We had not been established many days at 
 Koulsir, when we received intimation that the 
 Ghoorkas, who now formed part of General 
 Ventura's camp, had mutinied. It appeared that 
 the General had been compelled to place their 
 adjutant in confinement for misconduct, and as 
 he was a favourite with the regiment, his impri- 
 sonment was regarded by the soldiers in anything 
 but a favourable light. In the course of the day, 
 they unanimously resolved to release him by force ; 
 and to effect their purpose, proceeded in a large 
 body to the quarter guard of the Nujeeb battalion, 
 where the prisoner was lodged, and demanded his 
 enlargement. This was refused, and Ventura 
 happening to come to the spot at the time, de- 
 termined to repel force by force, and ordered his 
 
CAMP AT KOULSIR. 295 
 
 Goorcherras and guards to load. The Ghoorkas, 
 perceiving him to be resolute in his intentions, 
 abandoned their design, and returned to their 
 tents, which they soon after struck, and, with 
 colours flying and band playing, marched out of 
 camp, taking along with them two guns that were 
 attached to the Nujeeb regiment. No attempt 
 was made to molest them in this, nor were they 
 prevented from moving to Peshawur, where they 
 took up a position not far from the walls of the 
 fort, and where they were permitted to remain 
 in a state of open mutiny, without any attempt 
 being made to overawe them, whilst a report of 
 their conduct was sent to the Maharajah at 
 Lahore. 
 
 One evening, as we had concluded dinner, and 
 were on the point of returning to our respective 
 tents, the flashes of cannon, followed soon after 
 by their reports, attracted our attention, and as 
 there was no regularity in the firing, and it was 
 evidently in the direction of the fort, we unani- 
 mously concluded that orders had arrived from 
 the Maharajah to disperse the mutineers. On 
 the following morning, however, we learned that 
 
296 CAMP AT KOULSIR. 
 
 our opinions were erroneous, and that all this 
 cannonading arose from authentic information of 
 the capture of Candahar having been received by 
 the Sikh government, who had directed royal 
 salutes to be fired in honour of the event. 1 he 
 Ghoorkas still occupied their ground, and after 
 a delay of eighteen or twenty days, were allowed 
 to join the Prince Nownihal Singh's camp one 
 of the objects they had aimed at, as they had 
 expressed an unwillingness to move beyond the 
 Khyber pass. What became of the adjutant I 
 never heard. 
 
 May \lth. A sad accident occurred this morn- 
 ing, whilst Hillersdon's levies were at ball practice. 
 One of his men, after having made several ineffec- 
 tual attempts to fire his jhezail, ceased his endea- 
 vours m disgust, and slinging the rifle across his 
 arm, was in the act of turning round, when it 
 went off*, the bullet passing through a man's chest, 
 who was standing close to Hillersdon thence 
 through another individual's arm, and finally 
 lodging in the foot of a third, from which it 
 was extracted with some difficulty. 
 
 Much about this time we heard of the defeat 
 
CAMP AT KOULSIR. gQy 
 
 of the party that had been sent across the Cabul 
 river against Sadut Khan, who, by a successful 
 stratagem, totally routed and discomfited his 
 adversaries. When the expedition advanced 
 against him, he took up his quarters at a certain 
 village, where his plans were to come into ope- 
 ration, and which (after making a faint attempt 
 at resistance) he deserted, leaving the greater 
 portion of his baggage behind. The tempta- 
 tion thus given to plunder was too strong 
 to be resisted by his opponents, who forthwith 
 set to work, securing everything they could lay 
 their hands on, never dreaming that their actions 
 were watched, and that they had fallen into the 
 snare prepared for them. The wily Sadut Khan 
 but wanted this, and when he saw that his foes 
 were too intent upon their occupation to regard 
 aught besides, he suddenly, with his followers, 
 dashed into the midst of them, killed and wounded 
 numbers, and dispersed the party. The chief 
 brunt of the action fell upon fifty jezailchees, from 
 Dowson's levies ; but many of them met their deaths, 
 and the wounded were, a few days afterwards, 
 brought into our camp in a most pitiable state. 
 
 o 3 
 
298 CAMP AT KOULSIR. 
 
 Towards the end of the month, the Sikh auxi- 
 liaries took up a position about a mile and a half 
 to our left, and their camp was \'isited by two 
 Frenchmen, with the singular surnames of Mouton 
 and Boeuf, When we first heard of these gen- 
 tlemen being in the Punjab, we naturally enough 
 concluded that these appellations were mere 
 ** sobriquets" bestowed upon them by some plea- 
 santly facetious individual ; and it certainly ivas 
 curious enough to meet two persons with such 
 extraordinary cognomens, travelling together in a 
 country almost' destitute of Europeans. Had we 
 heard of them separately, their names might not 
 have caused a remark ; but the coincidence was 
 too curious to be passed over unnoticed. The 
 former (Mons. M.) was a tall handsome-looking 
 man, and a captain in the French cuirassiers ; the 
 latter professed to be a gentleman perambulating 
 the globe for his amusement. The Sikhs had 
 not been very long in their new encampment, 
 when several of the grass-cutters having approached 
 too near the pass for forage, were cut off by the 
 Khyberries, who also despoiled them of numbers 
 of their camels, which had been taken to graze in 
 tlie same direction. 
 
CAMP AT KOULSIR. 299 
 
 During the month of May, the heat in the 
 middle of the day became most oppressive ; the 
 thermometer, between the hours of eleven and 
 four, seldom standing below 110 in our tents. 
 A variety of expedients were adopted to mitigate 
 the effects of this desperately hot weather ; some 
 of the officers excavating the earth beneath their 
 marquees ; others having only one half of the area 
 dug out, by which means a chavge! of tempera- 
 ture was to be obtained ; whilst a few constructed 
 apartments under ground, at the depth of seven 
 or eight feet. For myself I preferred the simple 
 canvas, with a tattie, although much warmer ; 
 but there was a dampness in the Surdkhanas, 
 which, in my opinion, is not wholesome : and I 
 also disliked the feeling of moisture that invariably 
 clung to the dress after sitting in one for any 
 length of time. F., whose tent was pitched oppo- 
 site to mine, had built one of these " vaults for 
 the living," on the most approved principles, and 
 was sitting in it, on a certain sultry day, trans- 
 acting the affairs of his company with his subadar 
 and havildar, when down came the whole fabric 
 on the top of them ; the beams, as they fell, for- 
 
300 CAMP AT KOULSIR. 
 
 tunately taking such directions as completely 
 saved them, if not from destruction, at least from 
 broken limbs. I heard the crash, and immediately 
 ran over to assist; but, on reaching the spot, I 
 became convulsed with laughter at the appearance 
 of the gallant captain, who, being a stout man, 
 had perspired freely, and the dust from off the 
 clay roof had stuck to his face and plastered it 
 as if with a coating of mud ; not a feature was to 
 be distinguished; and beside him stood the suba- 
 dar, a poor withered- looking old man, who seemed 
 as if he had just issued from a baker's shop. 
 
 Two princes of the royal blood, and nephews 
 to Shah Shoojah, joined our camp at Koulsir, 
 but there was no pomp about them ; and their 
 tents, which were very small and old, bespoke 
 anything but a state of affluence. One of them, 
 the Shah-zada Salah, was some weeks after sent 
 across the Cabul river, in the direction of Bajour, 
 to watch the movements of Sadut Khan, and the 
 other towards Michnce, for the same purpose. 
 Reports of an intended chupao* upon our camp, 
 at night, by this redoubted chief, were rife, and 
 
 * Foray. 
 
CAMP AT KOULSIR. ^QJ 
 
 we were more than once aroused by firing in the 
 direction of the Khyber pass; but beyond these 
 slight alarms we might have been in cantonments, 
 for all the molestation we suffered. 
 
 Preparations were at length made that bore 
 some indications of a speedy advance being con- 
 templated. The levies under Dowson and Hil- 
 lersdon were considered sufficiently au fait at 
 their exercise to admit of their joining with the 
 British troops, and taking part in the general 
 duties of the camp. The artillery were busy in 
 constructing ammunition-boxes, to be carried on 
 the backs of mules, and in practising the mounting 
 and dismounting of ordnance from the backs of 
 elephants ; and, above all, an advanced camp was 
 formed beneath the walls of Futtehgurh ; and 
 " sangas," or rude breastworks of stones, were 
 thrown up on the more commanding positions near 
 the entrance of the pass. These rough pieces of 
 fortification, so close to their own haunts, proved 
 very offensive to the inimical Khyberries, who 
 soon evinced a disposition to get rid of them ; 
 and, on the 9th, came down in some force with 
 an apparent intention of making an attack. 
 
302 CAMP AT KOULSIR. 
 
 Maule, however, having sent a few shells from 
 a 5J inch mortar, arrested their progress ; but the 
 fellows fired well and true, one of their bullets 
 passing between him and Mackeson, and knocking 
 the turban off the head of the latter's moonshee, 
 who was standing close to them. 
 
 On the 10th, I relieved Maule at Jumrood, and 
 took there a 6-pounder gun cf the Aloowur 
 Rajah's, in case an opportunity should occur of 
 getting a few long shots. Ferris accompanied me. 
 There was no appearance of the enemy when we 
 arrived ; but as the evening advanced, first one 
 head, and then another, and another, became 
 visible on the heights in front ; until, at length, 
 a small body of jezaiichees from Ali Musjid had 
 collected there. The dread of the shells, how- 
 ever, kept them at a distance ; but they com- 
 menced firing at us with their long rifles, and one 
 of their bullets passed over our heads without 
 committing any damage. It was not considered 
 worth while to send a bomb at them, and we con- 
 tented ourselves with trying the range of some 
 of the 7-feet matchlocks that had been borrowed 
 from Avitabile ; but they did not carry so far as 
 
CAMP AT KOULSIR. ^Q^ 
 
 the enemy's position, which proved the superiority 
 of their jhezails. Shortly after, as night was 
 closing in, and our foes had decamped, we returned 
 to the fort of Futtehgurh, where we slept. 
 
 Early on the following morning Wade rejoined 
 us from Koulsir, where he had been for a couple 
 of days ; and, on his arrival, we rode to the mouth 
 of the pass, for the purpose of erecting another 
 " sanga" on the right bank of the stream, or rather 
 bed of the stream, as the Khyberries had turned 
 the water into another channel, because the Co- 
 lonel had refused to pay some exorbitant tax they 
 required for allowing it to flow. Runjeet Singh 
 is compelled to give 1200 rupees a month for the 
 little of the " pure element" that is required for 
 the use of the garrison at Futtehgurh ; and if the 
 money is delayed beyond the stipulated day of 
 settlement, the stream is instantly stopped, which 
 no doubt proves a certain remedy for the cure of 
 dilatory payment. At the new " sanga'' we were 
 occupied till past eleven o'clock, when the heat of 
 the sun drove us to our camp, where we found it 
 delightfully cool, as the Colonel had his kuskus 
 tent, which he gave up for the public benefit. 
 
304 ^^^^ ^T KOULSIR. 
 
 Our fortifications in front of the pass now con- 
 sisted of four redoubts three on the left bank, 
 and one on the right ; the latter of which com- 
 manded the entrance, and also afforded a good 
 cross-fire to the most advanced of those on the 
 opposite side. The largest and most elevated in 
 situation was in the centre, and was occupied by 
 a strong body of friendly Khyberries, under the 
 control of a chief, by name Wahab, a stout and 
 able man, but a thorough rascal. A more com- 
 plete set of bloodthirsty-looking individuals had, 
 perhaps, seldom been collected together in so 
 small a space ; but there was a picturesqueness 
 about their wild costume and muscular figures 
 that harmonized well with the surrounding scenery. 
 I tried to get Wahab to stand for his picture, 
 which he at first agreed to do, and for that pur- 
 pose put himself into what he termed his fighting 
 costume, done by baring his arms above the elbows, 
 and his legs as far as the knees. He afterwards 
 thought better of it, grew sulky, and moved about 
 so continually, that I was glad to obtain merely 
 a sketch of his dress. I was more successful in 
 securing that of one of liis followers, a rough and 
 
CAMP AT KOULSIR. ^Ql^ 
 
 hardy old dog, who, to heighten the naturally 
 barbarous expression of his countenance, had dyed 
 his hair and beard of a bright red. The other 
 "sangas" were occupied by picked men from 
 Dowson's and Hillersdon's regiments, with a few 
 of Mackeson's Moultanies. Amongst the neigh- 
 bouring hills, we saw some deserted villages, or, 
 rather, apologies for such, of the Khyberries, con- 
 sisting merely of caves dug in the earth, in the 
 most rude manner, or as would be seen in the 
 most savage countries. The site of the battle- 
 ground where the gallant Hurri Singh lost his 
 life, was pointed out to us, as well as the remains 
 of the fort of Jumrood, near to which the encoun- 
 ter took place. Little, however, beyond a con- 
 fused-looking mound is to be seen of the latter, 
 it having been demolished soon after the fatal 
 action, and the stronger and more substantial 
 castle of Futtehgurh erected in its stead. 
 
 We again slept within the walls of the fortress, 
 our beds being ranged side by side on the roof 
 of a building in its interior, to which we climbed 
 by an indifferently-constructed ladder. We were 
 joined here by the " gooroo," or priest of the 
 
306 CAMP AT KOULSIR. 
 
 place, whose apartment was on a level with our 
 quarters, and who, with the greatest coolness 
 in the world, dragged his " char-paee," or 
 bedstead, close to ours, and stretching himself 
 on the top of it, was soon in a snore. With 
 nothing but the canopy of heaven for a curtain, 
 we were as cool as it was possible to be at Jum- 
 rood, in the middle of summer, or, in other 
 words, we found it unpleasantly warm ; and to 
 add to our grievances, the fatigues which the 
 Colonel had gone through at the " sanga," brought 
 on fever, from which he suffered considerably 
 during the night. The next morning, I accom- 
 panied him to Koulsir, where he had a smart 
 attack, and was eventually obliged to be bled : 
 but the terrible heat to which we were exposed, 
 was already telling upon most of our constitutions. 
 Farmer had been laid up at Peshawur, and was 
 seriously ill for some days ; Rattray followed, 
 and was for weeks on the sick list. Corfield has 
 been so extremely ill, that he is to return to the 
 provinces with General Court, whenever that 
 officer proceeds to Lahore with his brigade. Lord 
 has suffered so much from fever and ague, that 
 
CAMP AT KOULSIR. gQ^ 
 
 he has been compelled to take up his quarters in 
 Avitabile's house, at Peshawur, where he is not 
 so much exposed to the weather. Cunningham, 
 too, has had an attack of fever and been bled ; 
 and some out of the few that remain have also 
 been complaining. Amongst the rumours and 
 reports that we subsequently obtained from 
 AfFghanistan, a most ludicrous one informed us 
 that Wade's illness arose from a bowel complaint, 
 brought on by the anxiety of mind he laboured 
 under when he heard Mahomed Akhbar Khan, 
 Dost Mahomed's son, had arrived at the entrance 
 of the Khyber pass, with a large train of artillery. 
 On the 2nd of July, official information was 
 received of the death of the Maharajah Runjeet 
 Singh, who, after a long struggle with life, quitted 
 this world on the evening of the 27th ultimo, 
 bequeathing his kingdom to his eldest son, Kur- 
 ruck Singh, and the famous diamond the " Koi- 
 noor," or " hill of light," to the temple of 
 Juggernath, besides distributing above forty lacs 
 of rupees in charity, a few days before his death. 
 As soon as he had ceased to breathe, the chief 
 sultana took the hand of Dhian Singh, the vizier, 
 
308 CAMP AT KOULSIR. 
 
 and inserting it into that of Kurruck Singh, the 
 new sovereign, she placed them in that position on 
 the breast of the corpse, and made them swear to 
 be faithful to one another, and to the late Maha- 
 rajah's wishes. I think it was on the day following 
 his decease that the body was burned, and, melan- 
 choly to relate, no less than four of his wives, and 
 five or seven of his slave-girls, voluntarily sacrificed 
 themselves on the same funeral pyre. On the 3rd, 
 Wade and Cunningham paid a visit of condolence 
 to his grandson, the Prince Nownihal Singh, and 
 found the Sikhs, as is usual with them on such 
 occasions, habited in white robes, without any 
 ornament. To be as similar as possible they 
 only wore white jackets and trowsers, and after a 
 few words of sympathy, took their leave. The 
 Sikhs mourn for twelve days, and during that 
 time, never use a charpaee to sleep on. 
 
 A day or two subsequent to this. Wade and 
 Ferris proceeded to the neighbourhood of the 
 Cabul river, as our inveterate foe Sadut Khan had 
 been busily engaged in inciting the population on 
 its left bank, to arm against us. On the 6th, I 
 joined them with a small Sikh howitzer, escorted 
 
CAMP AT KOULSIR. 309 , 
 
 by a detachment of the Shah-zada Timour's body 
 guard ; and as Wade intended to commence opera- 
 tions that day, and expected me at sunrise, I was 
 obliged to leave Koulsir at S a.m. I arrived in the 
 nick of time, as the Colonel had just assembled 
 a number of horsemen vi^ho were to accompany us, 
 and with whom we forthwith proceeded to occupy 
 a height which overlooks the river, where it quits 
 the Khyber range, and enters the plain of Pesha- 
 wur. This view was extremely pretty, the stream, 
 which was far below us, being concealed every here 
 and there by the jutting points of projecting moun- 
 tains, with a few straggling villages on its left 
 bank, fringed, in one or two places, with mul- 
 berry-trees ; whilst in the middle of the channel a 
 black rock or two upreared their heads, and broke 
 the force of the current as it flowed swiftly by, 
 causing the water to be lashed into a white foam, 
 and which, as it receded from the obstructions, 
 gradually resumed its unruffled appearance. The 
 Momund country, a mere succession of barren and 
 rocky hills, was to the north; and to the south, and 
 to the east, the valley of Peshawur, over which 
 were spread tracts of cultivation, and clumps of 
 
.310 CAUV AT KOULSIR. 
 
 trees, bounded our view ; the high range of Khyber 
 mountains being to the west. 
 
 The largest of the villages was pointed out by 
 the Colonel as that which he wished to be shelled ; 
 but it appeared to me beyond the range of the 
 small howitzer we had brought with us : however, 
 I arranged matters to make a trial. Unwilling to 
 commence hostilities, in the hope that the people 
 might yet be induced to come in peaceably, Wade 
 still deferred proceeding to extremities^ notwith- 
 standing some hours had passed by beyond that he 
 had fixed upon as the limit of his forbearance. 
 Presently appeared a couple of horsemen, who 
 were hailed and asked to join us. They replied 
 only by hurling a torrent of abuse at the Colonel, 
 who instantly ordered the riflemen to fire. Ball 
 after ball was sent at them, and although I observed 
 one or two plough up the ground in front of their 
 horses' feet, they managed to escape unhurt ; and I 
 was glad of it, as they had displayed much coolness 
 and daring. A party on foot now descended the 
 hills on the opposite bank, and commenced blazing 
 away at us ; but without effect, as we were beyond 
 the range of their matchlocks, though a few of our 
 
CAMP AT KOULSIR. gU 
 
 rifles reached one of the boldest of their set, who 
 had crept to the water's edge, and who would have 
 paid dearly for his temerity, had he not been safely 
 ensconced behind a huge rock, upon which the 
 bullets told. 
 
 This desultory mode of skirmishing continued 
 for some time, and on it ceasing Wade ordered the 
 remains of an old tower to be put into a state of 
 defence, and lodged a guard there. He then pro- 
 ceeded with Ferris down a narrow cut, which 
 brought them to the margin of the river, and 
 opposite to a village, whose inhabitants he pre- 
 viously had warned (in order that the women and 
 children might be sent out of the way) would be 
 attacked unless they consented to acknowledge the 
 Shah-zada. As this cut was no gun road, I was 
 obliged to return by that we had come up, and 
 which, being in many places rather steep, compelled 
 us to have recourse to the drag-ropes, to pull the 
 ordnance over them. Whilst occupied at one of 
 these eminences, a few stray shots were fired at us 
 from the heights above, but did no injury ; and in 
 half an hour I rejoined the Colonel. It was now 
 necessary that the gun should be advanced with 
 
31g CAMP AT KOULSIR. 
 
 much precaution, to conceal it from a party of horse- 
 men, located beneath a tree contiguous to the village; 
 and this having been satisfactorily accomplished, 
 the piece was laid and fired : the shell falling in 
 front of them, and bounding onwards over their 
 heads, exploded just beyond their position. " Sauve 
 qui pent!" was their cry, and away they scuttled 
 to a place of safety as fast as their legs could carry 
 them. Another shot, aimed at the largest house 
 in the place, plumped into the midst of it, and 
 raised a cloud of dust that took several minutes to 
 settle. Our attention was then directed to a lofty 
 tower, in which numbers of men had taken refuge ; 
 and whilst firing at this, a stray shell happening to 
 descend into a comer of the village, turned out a 
 number of individuals, who proceeded at full tilt 
 across a hill at its back, and behind which another 
 fell, and bursting, drove out a number of women 
 who had taken shelter there, and who now, not 
 knowing where to hide themselves from the deadly 
 missiles, again sought refuge in their houses. 
 
 The Colonel, unwilling to make an unnecessary 
 sacrifice of life, but determined to show his 
 threats were not to be disregarded with impunity. 
 
CAMP AT KOULSIR. 3)3 
 
 now ordered the firing to cease, and we moved 
 along the banks of the river until we reached a 
 small village, in front of which the stream makes a 
 considerable bend, thus leaving an open space of 
 ground, which formed an eligible situation for an 
 outwork. A ditch and mound were forthwith dug 
 and thrown up, but as there was nothing more for 
 me to do, I returned to camp, which was pitched 
 near a fortified enclosure, and which I reached at 
 five in the evening, having been in the saddle, with 
 scarcely any intermission, for fifteen hours. I was, 
 as may be supposed, considerably well fagged, and 
 having had nothing to taste since the preceding 
 night, tolerably nigh being famished, and glad to 
 lay hold of a biscuit wherewith to stay the cravings 
 of my appetite. At eight o'clock, Ferris and the 
 Colonel having waited until the position was entirely 
 enclosed by a parapet, and thick brushwood, by 
 way of an abattis where such was required, came 
 back, and told me that about an hour after I had 
 left, some marksmen had got on to an island, within 
 range of their situation, from which they blazed 
 away, and killed one man and wounded two others 
 before they could be dislodged. A strong guard 
 
314 CAMP AT KOULSIR. 
 
 was left to defend the village and ground we had 
 occupied. 
 
 A day or two afterwards, Ferris having con- 
 structed a very fair attempt at a battery in the 
 enclosure, we rode there in the evening, taking 
 with us the howitzer, and also a gun that had 
 been sent from the camp at Koulsir on the colo- 
 nel's requisition. The left bank of the river was 
 on this occasion crowded with the partizans of 
 Sadut Khan, who was also said to be present ; but 
 they were wary and kept almost beyond the range 
 of shot. At Wade's desire a few shells were sent 
 at a building close to a garden, which we saw with 
 a telescope was filled with men, who soon evacuated 
 it ; and a few shots from the six-pounder in the 
 direction of Sadut Khan caused him and his train to 
 fall back and take up a more distant and respectful 
 position. Several marksmen again crossed over to 
 the island, and a few of their bullets buried them- 
 selves in the parapet of the battery. Night put a 
 stop to our practice, and we returned to our quar- 
 ters. A trench had been sunk and a breastwork 
 thrown up the previous day as a defence to the 
 Shah-zada Jumboor's camp, situated a short dis- 
 
CAMP AT KOULSIR. 315 
 
 tance behind tbe enclosure with the battery, and 
 about a mile and a quarter in advance of our own 
 position. 
 
 Urgent business now requiring Wade's presence 
 at Koulsir, he left Ferris and myself in charge of 
 the camp near Michnee, and as we had the use of 
 his kus kus tent, we contrived to make ourselves 
 tolerably comfortable in spite of the intense heat. 
 The situation of our encampment was, however, 
 unwholesome, inasmuch as the village near to it 
 was surrounded by rice-fields, which being kept in 
 a constant state of moisture, disseminated a vast 
 quantity of malaria. The musquitoes, too, that 
 were engendered in these swamps, and to whose 
 bite I thought myself quite impervious, attacked 
 us at night in swarms, and stung me so severely 
 that 1 was obliged to wear leathern gloves. These 
 protected my hands, but my sleeping trowsers 
 were too thin to be any defence against the sharp 
 proboscis which they pushed through at the knee- 
 joints, until they fetched blood and raised large 
 white swellings on the surface. I never sufiered 
 from the torments of these insects before, unless 
 I except an onset that was made upon me by a 
 
 t2 
 
316 CAMP AT KOULSIR. 
 
 blood thirsty crew when passing tlirough the " Ra- 
 ma Serai," or "happy valley" of the Himalaya 
 mountains, and where I certainly did complain of 
 their treatment ; but it was as nothing when com- 
 pared with the annoyance, and indeed I may say 
 torture that I experienced at this place. 
 
 Of an evening, we used to ride over to the Shah 
 Zada Jumboor's camp, who was always glad to see 
 us, and generally produced a collation of fruit, 
 which he partook of with us. We then commonly 
 adjourned to the banks of the Cabul river, where 
 collecting a few fishermen, we made them cast their 
 nets into the water, and in this manner caught 
 numbers of fine fish, chiefly of a species of trout. As 
 we were returning from these visits, we would often 
 amuse ourselves by trying the mettle of our steeds 
 against the speed of our escort, which consisted of 
 some thirty or forty horsemen, and invariably the 
 jemadar of the troop, who was mounted on a long 
 gaunt racer, succeeded in heading us all. On one 
 of these occasions the Shah-zada promised me a 
 greyhound of the Aflfghanistan breed, which a few 
 days afterwards he sent to my tent. It was a tall, 
 bony, and somewhat muscular animal, with thick 
 
CAMP AT KOULSIR. 317 
 
 shaggy hair attached to its legs, that on the body 
 being quite smooth ; and the Prince assured me I 
 should find it equal to pulling down a deer un- 
 aided. 
 
 During our sojourn near Michnee, we heard of 
 a serious affray that had occurred at Jumrood 
 between the Mussulmans and Sikhs. How the 
 quarrel commenced is not exactly known, but the 
 latter shut the gates of their fort, fFuttehgurh,) 
 and set to firing briskly on their antagonists. 
 Mackeson, who in addition to the difficult task of 
 conciliating the Khyber chiefs in its neighbour- 
 hood, had charge of our camp there, on hearing 
 the disturbance endeavoured to put a stop to it, 
 and for this purpose was advancing to a wicket, 
 when a " Chuprassie " was shot dead by his side, 
 the Sikhs being heard by his cousin, (who had 
 joined him from Lahore a short time ago,) to shout 
 out, " Shoot the Feringee Sahib," or " English 
 gentleman." In spite of the danger to which he was 
 exposed, Mackeson boldly insisted on being ad- 
 mitted within the fort, where he found the com- 
 mandant, Boodh Singh, doing everything in his 
 power to quell the tumult. A report of the cir- 
 
318 CAMP AT KOULSIR. 
 
 cumstance was immediately forwarded to Prince 
 Nownihal Singh, at Peshawur, who sent the Rajah 
 Lena Singh to inquire into the matter, and ordered 
 the garrison to be relieved forthwith. Several 
 individuals besides the Chuprassie lost their lives 
 in this ** untoward event." 
 
 About the loth, Wade returned to us, and every 
 thing being now in readiness for an immediate 
 advance on AfFghanistan, we left Michnee on the 
 18th, and rejoined our camp at Koulsir the same 
 day. The 19th was a halt, as the Sikh contingent 
 was not quite ready to move ; but on the 20th of 
 July, the whole of the force at last quitted Koul- 
 sir and marched to Jumrood, where we encamped 
 between the fort of Futtehgurh and our " sangas ;" 
 the latter being still tenanted by the friendly 
 Khyberries and levies from Dowson and Hillers- 
 don's regiments. The heights, too, that the Je- 
 zailchies had occupied when firing upon us, were 
 now in our possession, and kept by a body of Fer- 
 ris's irregulars under the personal command of 
 that officer, who had struck across from Michnee 
 to Jumrood, instead of returning with us to Koulsir. 
 
 The force now at the Colonel's disposal to effect 
 
CAMP AT KOULSIR. 319 
 
 the passage of the Khyber amounted at a rough 
 
 estimate to some 9 or 10,000 men, 6000 of whom 
 
 form the Sikh contingent, and are all Mussulmans. 
 
 The co-operation to be expected from these allies 
 
 is not of the most cordial description, for it is well 
 
 known that the Sikhs, as a nation, are extremely 
 
 jealous of the British power, and nothing would 
 
 afford them greater pleasure than to see it meet 
 
 with a reverse. Necessity alone compelled Run- 
 
 jeet Singh to sign the tripartite treaty, but having 
 
 done so, it is but justice to his memory to add, 
 
 that as far as he was concerned, or when his health 
 
 would allow him to attend to public business, the 
 
 engagements entered into were observed. Strong, 
 
 however, as the " Khalsas " dislike is to us, I 
 
 believe their hatred to the Khyberries to be tenfold 
 
 more bitter ; and therefore we have at least the 
 
 passions to work on our side, if we have not their 
 
 wilL Of the Affghan levies it is more difficult to 
 
 speak. Some amongst them have no doubt been 
 
 led to espouse the Shah-zada's side out of love to 
 
 his cause, but the majority, it is to be feared, have 
 
 done so purely for the desire of gain. Many also 
 
 are secretly of DostMahommed's party, and these 
 
320 CAMP AT KOULSIR. 
 
 in their quarrels with the Hindustanees have, on 
 more than one occasion, been heard to express 
 their intentions of paying us off, when once within 
 the limits of the Khyber pass. Such individuals 
 can only be willing to serve us so long as we con- 
 tinue paramount in power, and they are well 
 paid ; but were we once to meet with a reverse, it 
 does not require much keen-sightedness to pro- 
 nounce that their weapons would be turned against 
 us. The British sepoys, the Hindustanee irregulars, 
 and a few of the Affghan levies, amounting alto- 
 gether to about 2000 men, are therefore the only 
 troops that could be implicitly relied upon ; but 
 what is this small number to the host that can be 
 brought against them ! A whole brigade of our 
 troops ought to have been sent with the Sikhs, and 
 no doubt would have been, but for the jealousy of 
 Runjeet Singh. The company's " ikbal "* had hi- 
 therto been great in the eyes of our opponents, 
 and it is now more necessary than ever that it 
 should continue to be so. 
 
 The foes we expect to encounter are the 
 Khyberries in general, and the Afreedies in parti- 
 
 * Good fortune. 
 
CAMP AT KOULSIR. 3^1 
 
 cular, the most bloodthirsty, and the most nume- 
 rous of the three tribes that inhabit the country 
 around the pass. When united, (which fortunately 
 is not always the case,) it is computed that these 
 lawless marauders can bring from 20 to f35,000 
 men into the field ; but as some had joined the 
 Shah-zada, and others, it is rumoured, are willing 
 to be bought over, we cannot calculate upon meet- 
 ing a third, or even a fourth of the number. 
 These would, of course, be supported by Akbar 
 Khan, who is encamped near the western extremity 
 of the Pass, and can move up to their assistance 
 whenever necessary. A portion of his men, it is 
 also said, garrisons the fort of Ali Musjid. The pos- 
 sessions of the Afreedies lie nearest to Peshawur ; 
 those of the Shinwarees being in the neighbour- 
 hood of Dhaka, extending from the entrance there 
 to the vicinity of Ali Musjid. The Aurakzyes 
 live more in the interior. 
 
 fS 
 
CHAPTER X. 
 
 THE KHYBER PASS. 
 
 The commencement of active operations was hailed 
 by us all with extreme satisfaction, for we were 
 heartily tired of Peshawur and its vicinity, and 
 longed to see what was at the other side of 
 those hills on which we had been gazing for so 
 many tedious months. On the twenty-first we 
 marched in the afternoon under a burning sun to 
 Kuddum, a mile and a half in advance, where we 
 halted and slept. The next morning a strong 
 party, consisting of artillery, cavalry, and infantry, 
 assembled at day-break, preparatory to progressing 
 up the pass, and seizing on some of the heights in 
 front. The Colonel, with Rattray and myself, 
 joined this force, taking with us a small mortar, 
 suspended upon men's shoulders, for the purpose of 
 
THE KHYBER PASS. 323 
 
 being carried up the steeps where necessary ; the 
 ammunition being conveyed in boxes slung over 
 the backs of a couple of mules. Ferris was, 
 simultaneously, to keep moving with his regiment 
 along the tops of the hills, and Mackeson to 
 penetrate from Jumrood with his Moultanees 
 and part of the Sikh contingent, by a shorter and 
 more confined pass, (the " Shadee Baziar,") only 
 adapted for foot passengers and camels. At dawn 
 of day our cortege was ready, and, as we mustered 
 at the extremity of a lofty mountain, tinged by 
 the grey of morning, with a rippling stream 
 running at its base, the scene was one of extreme 
 beauty and excitement, crowded as it was with a 
 multitude of troops, and the tribes of the various 
 districts in the neighbourhood who were friendly 
 to our cause, and whose infinity of costumes 
 added greatly to the picturesqueness of the 
 display. 
 
 After a short interval, everything being reported 
 as ready, we commenced our march, having first 
 sent forward a party of Lord's personal escort as 
 an advanced guard, and who, dressed in long blue 
 chupkuns with scarlet cummerbunds and trowsers, 
 
324 T^^ KHYBER PASS 
 
 and the pointed kuzzilbash cap, looked extremely 
 well as they appeared and disappeared from, 
 our sight round projecting rocks. We gradually 
 ascended the pass, and soon reached a spot so 
 narrow, and confined on either side with cliffs so 
 perpendicular, that a handful of resolute men 
 might have stayed our progress for some time. 
 Emerging from it, we presently came to Jubbar- 
 gee, a Khyberrie summer village, constructed on a 
 low and somewhat level piece of ground, jutting 
 from the hills on our right, and composed of rude 
 huts thatched with leaves and branches of trees. 
 It was deserted. On the opposite side was an 
 opening in the mountains, from whence a small 
 stream issued after passing through a very con- 
 fined valley. 
 
 Here our party was divided : Rattray, with the 
 guns and the Sikh contingent, continuing his 
 route along the bed of the main stream, whilst the 
 Colonel and myself, with an escort of horse and 
 foot, and with the mortar, ascended the hills on 
 the right. As we climbed by degrees into loftier 
 regions we felt the temperature becoming more 
 agreeable and refreshing the higher we rose, but 
 
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THE KHYBER PASS. 3^5 
 
 the sun was still exceedingly powerful, and pro- 
 duced a good deal of thirst, which we were glad 
 to slake at a diminutive spring that we fell in 
 with two- thirds of the way up. We rested a 
 short time beneath the shade of some trees that 
 had grown up in its vicinity whilst our followers 
 partook of the grateful element, and then, dis- 
 mounting from our horses to walk up a precipitous 
 steep, we shortly afterwards gained the crest of 
 the ridge, which must have been between 2000 
 and 3000 feet in height. 
 
 From this eminence we had a beautiful view of 
 the pass, with the long- desired fort of Ali Musjid 
 in front of us, about lour miles distant, and 
 which, situated on a rocky and almost isolated 
 hill, appeared an exceedingly strong place. It is 
 considered the key to the defile, and our present 
 operations are only preparatory to our endeavours 
 to obtain possession of it. We looked around in 
 vain for Ferris, who was nowhere to be seen ; 
 but in half-an-hour he joined us, the deep chasms 
 ill the hills having caused him to make several 
 detours, which lengthened his journey consider- 
 ably. Rattray, too, was descried winding along 
 
3gg THE KHYBER PASS. 
 
 the bed of the stream, and a messenger was 
 despatched with directions for him to halt and 
 form the camp on a piece of level ground a little 
 in advance, but far below where we stood. We 
 could gain no tidings of Mackeson, and were 
 wondering where be could be, when a man arrived 
 and hastily requested that some assistance might 
 be sent to him, as he had been driven back by a 
 strong force of Khy berries. This, from what we 
 could learn, was consequent on the cowardice of a 
 party of Nujeebs, who had accompanied his band 
 of Moultanees, and with whom he had at first 
 succeeded in chasing the foe from one post to 
 another, even to occupying a height on the opposite 
 side of the pass, when the Afreedies, receiving 
 reinforcements, made a bold sally, which struck 
 sucli terror into the Sikh troops that they fled at 
 once. Mackeson, however, retained his advantage 
 as long as he possibly could with the Moultanees 
 alone, but increasing numbers having poured in, he 
 had been compelled to fall back upon his present 
 position, where, having thrown up a small breast- 
 work of stones, which in some degree sheltered his 
 men, he nobly maintained the unequal contest. 
 
THE KHYBER PASS. 3^Y 
 
 Ferris was forthwith despatched with his 
 regiment of irregulars to the Lieutenant's assist- 
 ance, and Rattray having been directed to secure 
 the camp below, the Colonel and I proceeded 
 along the heights by an execrable path that led us 
 over some steep and rugged rocks, and eventually 
 brought us to the summit of a hill, more level 
 than usual, on which a " sanga" was immediately 
 commenced, as it flanked the right side of our 
 encampment. We had not been long here, when 
 a note was received from Ferris, begging that the 
 mortar might be at once sent forward, as the 
 enemy's numbers had considerably increased, and 
 our own men's ammunition was fast failing. Ac- 
 cordingly, accompanied by a small guard, I pushed 
 onwards without delay, and, at the distance of a 
 mile and a half, reached our position ; a rising 
 ground in front of a village surrounded by a 
 quantity of brushwood as an abattis, and to which 
 our troops could fall back if necessary. The 
 intervening ground was considerably exposed, and 
 shot after shot was sent at our party as we crossed 
 it, but happily without doing any injury. 
 
 The enemy, protected by some low stunted 
 
328 THE KHYBER PASS. 
 
 trees, were about 350 or 400 yards in advance of 
 the "rising ground" on which Mackeson's em- 
 bankment of stones had been thrown up, and also 
 occupied the heights of a range of hills that nearly 
 faced it; but, being a longdistance off, their firing 
 was not very destructive, though occasionally some 
 of their balls told, whilst that from the former was 
 most deadly. Another of their parties, and most 
 probably some of the garrison from Ali Musjid, 
 as they were dressed in a red uniform, lined the 
 crest of a ridge below our left flank, and from 
 thence annoyed our people a good deal. A shell 
 was sent at these fellows, and luckily pitched and 
 exploded amongst them ; the success being hailed 
 by our party with a loud huzza, re-echoed again 
 from the surrounding hills ; but the enemy never- 
 theless stood fast and continued to blaze away at 
 us, some of their bullets passing over our heads, 
 and others falling short struck the ground and 
 bounded onwards with a whizz like the twang of a 
 bow-string. The next shell was not so happy, for it 
 flew over the narrow ridge and burst harmless in 
 the hollow on the other side ; a huzza from the 
 red coats in return being faintly borne to us on 
 
THE KHYBER PASS. ^^9 
 
 the wings of the breeze, as a testimony of their 
 gratification for its innoxious qualities. This kind 
 of warfare continued upwards of an hour, with 
 more or less success, the balls from our foes in 
 front every now and then passing through a small 
 tree close to a hillock that partially sheltered us, 
 and lopping off the more slender of its branches 
 as clean as if cut with a knife. The heat had now 
 become terrific, and the rays of the noon-day sun 
 darted down with an intensity almost insupport- 
 able. Meanwhile, the dead and wounded were 
 being carried from the breastwork to the village in 
 the rear, and amongst the former I observed a par- 
 ticularly fine looking man, whose long black hair 
 swept the ground as his corpse was being dragged 
 away. The nature of the dependence we might 
 place on our raw levies was manifested when their 
 ammunition began again to fail, and who one by 
 one, as the individual fired off his last cartridge, 
 left the enclosure on the "rising ground" in spite 
 of exhortations, encouragements, and threats to 
 remain until Mackeson, who had gone for some, 
 should return. All was in vain, and it was with 
 the utmost difficulty that either Ferris or I could 
 
330 THE KHYBER PASS. 
 
 prevail upon a few to wait until the mortar was 
 dismounted and packed. On this being done, a 
 new difficulty arose as to who should carry it, for 
 with the exception of one, all the bearers had 
 made off whilst we were too busily engaged to 
 observe their movements, and some delay arose ere 
 
 
 
 we could persuade half-a-dozen of the irregulars 
 to take it as far as the village. Had the Khyber- 
 ries at this time been aware of the straits to which 
 we were reduced, and had made a bold dash, there 
 is little doubt but they might easily have secured 
 the piece of ordnance, v/ith ourselves, and the 
 small party that staid with us. They were de- 
 ceived, however, by a few hardy spirits who still 
 plied their matchlocks from the enclosure with 
 unabated vigour, and whose bold front portended 
 that other troops must be at hand ready to support 
 them and take their places. 
 
 These were at length called in, and our position 
 was now of necessity being abandoned for want of 
 ammunition. The cessation of our fire soon made 
 our intentions known to the Khyberries, who, pre- 
 ceded by a white banner, were rapidly advancing 
 to occupy the ground we had quitted, when Mack- 
 
THE KHYBER PASS. 331 
 
 eson happily arrived with re-inforcements of men 
 and material, and perceiving their object, gallantly 
 rushed forward with an huzza, and succeeded in 
 regaining the stockade before the Afreedies, who 
 returned to the clump of trees. As all the 
 shells but one had been expended, it was not 
 deemed expedient to unpack the mortar again, 
 and as it was also thought hazardous to leave it at 
 the village during the night, I was obliged to ride 
 back to the Colonel's " sanga " for assistance to 
 remove it to the camp. Having obtained an order 
 from him for some Coolies, and also received some 
 fresh instructions for Mackeson, I once more 
 retraced my steps to the scene of active operations, 
 and on my way fortunately discovered a number 
 of the deserters, who, in bands of twos and threes, 
 had concealed themselves behind rocks and cliffs. 
 By dint of persuasion, force, and no small propor- 
 tion of coaxing, I succeeded in getting them to 
 return with me, and having seen the mortar 
 perched upon their shoulders, proceeded to give 
 the Colonel's message to Mackeson. 
 
 As I crossed the exposed piece of ground alone, 
 it was easily perceived from my dress that I was a 
 
332 '^^^ KHYBER PASS. 
 
 Feringee, and the shots in consequence flew 
 around me rather thick. I, however, reached the 
 stockade unhurt, where within, I found Ferris and 
 Mackeson comfortably rechning on the ground 
 with their backs against the breastwork ; and 
 there I joined them, having first been cautioned 
 to stoop when passing over the interior, as every 
 thing that appeared above the wall was imme- 
 diately struck. Whilst seated here, the balls 
 occasionally rattled away at our backs, and yielded 
 us the satisfaction of knowing the enemy was 
 wasting his ammunition to no purpose. As it was 
 getting late, I was not able to stay long, so after 
 giving Mackeson his instructions, I took my leave, 
 re-crossed the stockade, and received another 
 salute of bullets as I returned over the exposed 
 spot, one of which sti uck the ground not a quarter 
 of an inch from my foot. On reaching camp, 
 I felt so exhausted from heat and fatigue, that I 
 threw myself at once on my couch and was soon 
 asleep. 
 
 The next day w^as one of comparative rest to 
 me, as my services were not required beyond the 
 precincts of the camp. Wade, however, returned 
 
THE KHYBEIl PASS. gg^ 
 
 about a mile down the pass to establish a post, 
 (which was not effected without opposition,) near 
 to where the Afreedies, on the previous evening, 
 had been doing considerable damage to our peo- 
 ple, besides plundering the baggage and purloining 
 sundry camels. It was much about the same spot, 
 too, that Rattray's and Colonel Shaik Bussowan's 
 troops were fired on when ascending the pass, by 
 which they lost one man killed and two wounded. 
 As soon as this encampment had been formed, a 
 message was despatched to Farmer, who with the 
 Shah-zada and the main column, immediately left 
 Kuddum and marched to the new ground. As the 
 afternoon had been entered on before the Prince's 
 camp broke up, it was late ere the baggage and 
 tents could be packed and sent forward, and the 
 consequence was some of the more fatigued camels, 
 that had lagged behind, were out all night, and 
 amongst them was one guarded by two sepoys of 
 the 2 i St, who unwilling to desert their charge re- 
 mained by its side, it was now reported that 
 these individuals had been slain and left in the 
 pass, on which a strong guard was sent out to 
 bring in their bodies, but who, much to their sur- 
 
334 '^^^ KHYBER PASS. 
 
 prise, found the poor fellows, though desperately 
 wounded, to be still alive. They were carefully 
 conveyed to camp and made over to the surgeon, 
 who sewed up their wounds, one of them having 
 received a fearful sabre gash, which commencing 
 above the left eye proceeded in a slanting direction 
 across the nose, which it separated, and terminated 
 on the chin below the right comer of the Imouth. 
 The other had three severe cuts over the loins ; 
 but neither of the men were considered in a hope- 
 less state. 
 
 As the day advanced, reports of stolen and miss- 
 ing baggage rapidly poured in, and amongst other 
 articles carried off by the Afreedies was one of the 
 Colonel's large tents, and what was still more 
 ominous, the Shah-zada's "guddee," or throne. 
 Camels laden with grain, likewise, fell a prey to 
 the rapacity of our foes, and obliged the horses 
 and other cattle to be put on half rations, a mea- 
 sure much to be regretted, as not a blade of grass 
 was to be obtained for the former. My commis- 
 sariat camels, which had been intrusted to the care 
 of a strong escort of Nujeebs, went with the rest, 
 the brave guards having fled at the first appear- 
 
THE KHYBER PASS. 335 
 
 ance of the Khyberries, without attempting any 
 sort of resistance. Such, at least, was the tale 
 reported to me by my "gomashta," a thorough 
 old woman by the way, and one who, I suspect, 
 was amongst the first that took to their heels. A 
 difficulty of furnishing provisions for the troops 
 also presented itself, and compelled Wade to order 
 Ferris back to Peshawur to bring up fresh sup- 
 plies. 
 
 On the ^4th, the Colonel, accompanied by Lord, 
 (who had rejoined the camp at Kuddur with re- 
 novated health,) Dowson, and myself, ascended the 
 range of hills on the left, and gradually crowned 
 the heights as we advanced. But little opposition 
 was offered to our progress, for the enemy, who 
 appeared in no great numbers, retreated as we 
 neared, and at length fell back to a respectful dis- 
 tance. I obtained a few long shots at them with 
 a six-pounder of the Sikh artillery, which had 
 been brought to the summit of the ridge on an 
 elephant, and a fire from it was kept up at inter- 
 vals throughout the day. Mackeson, with Maule, 
 had likewise been progressing on the opposite 
 range, where they had some smart fighting, and 
 
336 ''^^ KHYBER PASS. 
 
 the camp was moved forward to ground below the 
 village of Lall Cheenie, near to which our first day's 
 operations took place. At night, Dowson, with a 
 party from his regiment, occupied the heights on 
 the left, and Rattray, with a company of the 20th, 
 those on the right. Mackeson secured his own 
 position. 
 
 July ^5fh. As the storming of the heights in 
 front of Ali Musjid was to form the chief occupa- 
 tion of the day, a company of the 21st under 
 Farmer, and a large body of Sikh troops under 
 Colonel Shaik Bussowan, were added to the irre- 
 gulars. We again ascended the heights on the 
 left, Dowson's levies and Farmer's company, with 
 the Khalsas, gallantly driving before them a party 
 of Khyberries, who retreated forthwith to the 
 summit of a lofty and precipitous hill, on which 
 they had erected a "sanga," from whence they 
 soon displayed a flag of defiance. Farmer, with 
 the Sikh troops, immediately took up a partially 
 sheltered position directly below them, and com- 
 menced a rattling fire, which was returned with 
 equal spirit by the Afreedies. Wade, with Lord 
 and myself, and one of the Maharajah's howitzers. 
 
THE KHYBER PASS. 337 
 
 occupied a hill behind them, and an order was 
 despatched to camp for one of the British guns to 
 be sent up the Pass as far as the foot of our situa- 
 tion, to be escorted by the grenadiers of the 20th 
 and a hundred of Kurruck Singh's goorcherras. 
 The firing between Farmer's troops and the Khy- 
 berries was incessant, but every attempt to remove 
 the latter from their impregnable stronghold proVed 
 unavailing. At last they became emboldened, and 
 were descending somewhat to the left to take Far- 
 mer in flank, when a shell from the howitzer had 
 the effect of driving them back to their original 
 station, where they were beyond the range of such 
 missiles. The British howitzer having by this 
 time arrived, I received Wade's instructions, and 
 descending to the bed of the Pass, proceeded to 
 put them into execution. 
 
 At this spot, the rocks and cliffs on either side 
 were extremely precipitous, especially those on 
 our right, which indeed were almost perpendicu- 
 lar, and surmounted by a tower seized upon in the 
 morning by Mackeson, who had discovered and 
 captured several Afreedies concealed in its interior. 
 The gorge formed by these crags closing upon 
 
 Q 
 
338 "^"^ KHYBER PASS. 
 
 each other bounded the limits of my advance, and 
 from thence I was to fire on a cantonment of Dost 
 Mahommed's soldiers, situated at the base of the 
 hill on which Ali Musjid stands, but concealed 
 from my view by a low intervening ridge sloping 
 from the right. The goorcherras were then to 
 gallop forward, plunder the place, and retreat 
 with the spoil behind our position. On emerging 
 from the defile, preparatory to wheeling into 
 action, we were received by a shower of bullets, 
 fired fortunately from too great a distance to cause 
 any serious injury, though sufficiently close to be 
 unpleasant and disagi'eeable. One hit me on the 
 bridle arm, impressing me for the moment with 
 the notion that some one had struck me severely 
 with a stick, and angrily turning round to chastise 
 the supposed offender I was as instantaneously 
 enlightened as to the true cause of the contusion I 
 had received. Soon after opening our fire, that of 
 the enemy in front ceased, but a couple of Je- 
 zailchees, who had ensconced themselves in some 
 hidden position overlooking our left flank, annoyed 
 us a good deal ; and as they were beyond the 
 range of our grenadiers' muskets, I was obliged to 
 
THE KHYBER PASS. 339 
 
 send to Mackeson for a few of his riflemen to dis- 
 lodge them. The half-dozen that he ordered for 
 the purpose were, however, unable to effect this 
 desirable object, and in spite of their new oppo- 
 nents, the fellows still kept blazing at us, one of 
 their balls passing over my shoulder, and striking 
 a fuze mallet which a moment before had been 
 laid down by a havildar or serjeant, seated at my 
 side. 
 
 Nothing was now to be heard on all sides but 
 the roar of musketry, momentarily drowned by 
 the louder reports of a Zumboor, a mortar, or a 
 howitzer, the discharges from which were re-echoed 
 from the narrow chasms of the pass. Meanwhile, 
 I had explained Wade's commands to the goor- 
 cherras' officers, who replied " that it was the custom 
 of their troops, when once they made an advance, 
 never to retreat ; that they were quite willing to 
 seize upon the cantonments if it was the Colonel's 
 wish, but they would also retain possession of it or 
 fall to a man," This intimation I conveyed in a 
 pencilled note to Wade for his instructions, but 
 he, either unwilling to risk so much when there 
 was no actual necessity for it, or foreseeing no pro- 
 
 Q 2 
 
340 "^"E KHYBER PASS. 
 
 portionate equivalent likely to result from the act, 
 declined allowing them to proceed. After having 
 expended several shells I ceased to fire, but to 
 guard against contingencies, kept several in a 
 state of readiness, to be used as occasions offered ; 
 and half an hour had scarcely elapsed, when some 
 ten or twelve individuals were detected endeavour- 
 ing to escape from their encampment by the left 
 bank. A couple of rounds sent them back rather 
 more precipitately than they had advanced, and 
 subsequently others who attempted the same thing, 
 met with no better success. Affairs remained in 
 this state till the evening, when the Colonel directed 
 two guns of the Maharajah's horse artillery, and 
 two companies of his infantry, to relieve us, as we 
 had been on duty the whole day ; and on their 
 arrival about half-past eight or nine o'clock, I sent 
 the howitzer and British troops to camp ; and then 
 placing the Sikh auxiliaries in a proper position to 
 guard against surprise, I returned to my tent, 
 which I reached at ten p.m. The firing had ceased 
 on both sides when darkness came on, and all was 
 now as still and quiet as it had before been noisy 
 and turbulent. Between eleven and twelve, the 
 
THE KHYBER PASS. 341 
 
 Colonel came back, to whom I reported the ar- 
 rangements that I had made, with respect to the 
 Sikhs, and who was pleased to express his appro- 
 bation of them. 
 
 Throughout the day, Farmer and Shaik Busso- 
 wan, with their troops, had been considerably 
 exposed; the rugged height held by the Afreedies 
 almost entirely commanding their position, and 
 thus enabling them to fire with tolerably accurate 
 precision into our stockade. Many casualties 
 ensued, one or two men having been killed at the 
 former officer s side, and several others wounded ; 
 but reinforcements having been pushed forward, 
 Farmer was enabled to maintain his ground, not- 
 withstanding the advantages possessed by his 
 opponents. Mackeson and Maule, on the right, 
 had been doing considerable execution ; and one 
 of the latter*s shells was pitched with so true 
 an aim, that it fell in the midst of a knot of Khy- 
 berries, five of whom were either killed or wounded 
 by the explosion. 
 
 Being excessively tired and worn out with much 
 exertion, I was soon in a deep sleep ; but towards 
 morning was roused by Colonel Wade, to tell me 
 
342 THE KHYBER PASS. 
 
 that AK Musjid was in our possession, a party from 
 Farmer's position having silently pushed forward, 
 and, to their surprise, found it vacated ; the first 
 individual to enter it being the adjutant to Ferris's 
 irregulars, a mere lad, though a very gallant little 
 fellow. I of course congratulated him on the event, 
 but feeling very unwell, and not approving of my 
 rest being broken into, I at the moment (with not 
 much politeness) mentally wished both him and 
 Ali Musjid at Jericho. As the news was soon 
 buzzed about camp, it was in vain to seek for 
 further repose ; and as the dawn was not long in 
 appearing, I arose and dressed. I now suffered 
 from racking pains in my anns and legs, but attri- 
 buting them to the previous day's fatigue, I bathed 
 as usual, on which a smart shivering fit ensued, and 
 was followed by fever and severe head-ache, which 
 compelled me to have recourse to the doctor, who 
 forthwith transferred me to the sick list : a measure 
 I regretted less, as the fall of Ali Musjid concluded 
 our active operations. Unfortunately for me, the 
 very day on which we had entered the Khyber, 
 febrile symptoms manifested themselves ; but un- 
 willing to be absent from my duties at a time when 
 
THE KHYBER PASS. g^ 
 
 every officer's services were most necessary, I had 
 abstained from having recourse to those more 
 violent remedies which most probably would have 
 cured me at once. The subsequent day's exposure 
 to a burning sun, when the fever was on me, at 
 times so severe as to compel me to recline on the 
 ground, and in this posture give directions for the 
 proper serving of the ordnance ; or when the fire 
 had slackened altogether, to throw myself beneath 
 the leafless branches of a stunted tree, there to 
 seek for the little relief its slight shade was calcu- 
 lated to afford, did not, as may be supposed, tend 
 to alleviate my sufferings. By abstaining almost 
 totally from food I managed to bear up against the 
 disease, and when I arose on the 25th., to my 
 surprise I felt perfectly well, and congratulated 
 myself on the recovery. The shivering fit and 
 other symptoms that ensued after the bath, too 
 plainly told me that I had been precipitate in my 
 rejoicings, and that there was much to be done ere 
 the evil (which no doubt arose from the unhealthi- 
 ness of our position at Michnee) could be eradicated 
 from my constitution. Fifty leeches were imme- 
 diately ordered to my temples ; but though the best 
 
344 ^^^ KHYBER PASS. 
 
 that could be procured, they were very indifferent, 
 and extracted but little blood. The consequence 
 was, on the next morning I was obliged to be bled 
 from the arm, as I was in a raging fever, greatly 
 aggravated by the intense heat to which we were 
 exposed, and on the third day it arose to such a 
 height, that I again suffered depletion to a great 
 extent, and was also cupped on the temples. I 
 slightly improved after this, but the fever returned 
 daily as the temperature increased, and I then, on 
 the slightest excuse, used to send every individual 
 out of my tent, as I had got some absurd notion 
 into my head, that could I only fall into a swoon 
 for a quarter of an hour, and thus forget my suffer- 
 ings, I should awake comparatively well. Every 
 exertion, however, to effect this was in vain ; for 
 although I was so weak that a dozen or two of 
 strides were sufficient to prostrate me, I was unable 
 to produce a faint. 
 
 In some such state as this I continued, during 
 the week that our camp was pitched in the neigh- 
 bourhood of AH Musjid, whilst the Colonel was 
 busy arranging affairs for keeping that part of the 
 Khyber open which we had just occupied, and in 
 
THE KHYBER PASS. 345 
 
 negotiating for a passage through the remainder, 
 which is subject to the Shinwaries ; tribes by no 
 means so inimically disposed as the Afreedies, and 
 generally more peaceful in their habits. Mean- 
 while, Ferris had returned from Peshawur, with 
 the grain for w^hich he had been sent, his march 
 back through the " Shadee Baziar" pass having 
 been disputed by the enemy, who fired on his 
 party, and succeeded in carrying off a number of 
 women belonging to the Nujeeb regiment, who, I 
 believe, formed the rear of his escort, and who 
 could not be induced to attempt the rescue of these 
 poor creatures, their servants and concubines. The 
 result was, that the Khyberries mounted these 
 unfortunate demoiselles on their shoulders, and 
 notwithstanding the scratching, kicking, and biting 
 which they used in their defence, for want of 
 better weapons, they bore them off in triumph, 
 and carried them to their retreats. About the 
 ^8th, a couple of Khyberries, who had deserted 
 from us, were caught, and were awarded but a 
 slight punishment to what their crime merited. 
 This was a flogging on the bare back with the 
 " kora," (a native whip) a rather severe weapon, as 
 
 Q 3 
 
346 TH^ KHYBER PASS. 
 
 it fetched blood, and the sufferers nearly fainted be- 
 fore they had received all the lashes they were sen- 
 tenced to. Perhaps, upon the whole, it was the best 
 punishment that could have been inflicted on them, 
 for the generality of Khyberries, like other Asiatics, 
 regard the approach of death with the most apa- 
 thetic indifference, merely remarking that it is 
 their " kismut " or fate, and that what is written, 
 must of necessity come to pass ; whereas now they 
 were .marked for some time at least, which would 
 show to others inclined to act a similar part, that 
 " traitors to their salt " do not always escape de- 
 tection. 
 
 I think it was on the following day, towards 
 evening, tliat we were visited by a most furious 
 ** tofaun," accompanied by heavy rain, which 
 committed a considerable deal of injury. Not 
 above two or three of our tents were able to 
 weather it out, and it was with some degree of 
 horror I saw the " kanauts," or screens, to mine, 
 blown in, by which I got a thorough wetting, 
 a day or two after I had been bled for the second 
 time. The Colonel's kuskus tent being thrown to 
 the ground, he sought refuge in the doctor's, but 
 
THE KHYBER PASS. 347 
 
 had no sooner got there, than the tottering ap- 
 pearance it exhibited, obliged him to seek for 
 shelter elsewhere ; and altogether, as long as the 
 storm lasted, our camp presented a scene of mucli 
 confusion. 
 
 So many camels had now been stolen by the 
 Afreedies in their predatory expeditions, that, to 
 convey the public grain, it became necessary that 
 all who were supplied with these animals at the 
 expense of the mission, should have the numbers 
 reduced to one half. This occurring in the middle 
 of the Khyber pass, proved rather awkward, but, 
 as there was no alternative, matters were arranged 
 by officers doubling up into one tent ; my friend 
 Maule, and I, chumming together on the oc- 
 casion. 
 
 On the first of August, preparations were made 
 for our advance, and Ferris, vdth the grenadiers 
 of the 20th, and a host of irregulars, was ordered 
 to garrison the fort of Ali Musjid, a by no means 
 enviable situation, as the heat was so oppressive. 
 A depot for stores was also formed in it, and all 
 the spare tents and unnecessary baggage were 
 sent there. On the morning of the 2nd v/e 
 
348 ^HE KHYBER PASS. 
 
 resumed our march ; Hillersdon, who, poor fellow, 
 had been dangerously ill with fever some days 
 before we quitted Koulsir, and myself, being 
 conveyed in doolies ; and it was with no inconsider- 
 able delight we found ourselves jostling in the 
 narrow pass with camels, horses, donkeys, mules, 
 bullocks, men and women, bag and baggage, as 
 all bespoke a removal from the dreadful hot-bed 
 into which we had been plunged so long. In 
 a couple of hours we reached Sir-i-chusma, or the 
 Fountain's-head, where our tents were pitched 
 beneath the shade of a few straggling trees that 
 afforded a slight relief from the sun. I at first 
 felt better for the excitement, but as the after- 
 noon drew on, I again suffered from fever. On 
 the 3rd we moved to Lali-beg-ghurrie, a village of 
 some size, situated in a more open part of the 
 pass than we had yet seen, and indeed almost 
 deserving the appellation of valley. Two tanks 
 are in its neighbourhood, from whence the inhabi- 
 tants obtain their chief supply of water, and the 
 quantity required for our camp must have sadly 
 diminished their store. Many other villages, in- 
 variably protected by a lofty tower, were to be 
 
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THE KttYBER PASS. 349 
 
 seen from our position, and when within a mile of 
 Lali-beg-ghurrie, we passed a Grecian tomb, or 
 tope, erected on the summit of a high cliff, and 
 similar in appearance to, though somewhat smaller 
 than, that of Manikyala. A rude Khyberrie 
 tower surmounts it, and, from its elevated site, 
 forms a most excellent watch-tower, which, no 
 doubt, is constantly used. On the 4th we 
 marched to Lundy Khana, the road for some dis- 
 tance being very good ; but after crossing the crest 
 of the pass, terminating in a very precipitous and 
 abrupt descent, cut for three miles on the side of 
 a hill. The track here was villanously bad, and 
 in some places, nothing but the bare surface of a 
 rock, down the centre of which a deep groove had 
 been worn by the continued action of water, as 
 age after age the superabundance of heavy 
 showers had been carried off by this only channel 
 of exit. To lower the guns down this rocky 
 steep proved an arduous task, and, when night 
 closed in they were still a mile from camp ; it was 
 necessary therefore to halt the following day, to 
 allow of their being rejoined to the force. At 
 Lundy Khana are the remains of two forts, and 
 
350 THE KHYBER PASS. 
 
 tradition assigns them as the residences of two 
 noble **'ranies," who erected them at the ex- 
 tremity of their respective dominions, in order 
 that they might enjoy each other's society, and, 
 strange to say, the harmony continued until death 
 separated, them. On the 6th we left for Dhaka, 
 passing midway a ruined castle on the summit of 
 an isolated hill, in a more open part of the defile 
 than usual, which again becomes enclosed between 
 rocky and precipitous cliffs, before it terminates 
 in the small and confined valley of the above 
 name : two partially fortified villages are at one 
 end of the latter. Having now got through the 
 notorious Khyber pass, the following order* was 
 issued by Colonel Wade. 
 
 * The following paragraph formed the concluding one of 
 general orders by the Governor-general, dated Camp Somalka, 
 19th Nov. 1839, and, as it relates to Colonel Wade's force, may 
 not be out of place here. 
 
 " His Lordship has also much satisfaction in adding, that the 
 best acknowledgments of the Government are due to Lieut. 
 Colonel Wade, who was employed on the Peshawur frontier, and 
 who, gallantly supported by the officers and men of all ranks 
 under him, and seconded by the cordial aid of the Sikh govern- 
 ment, an aid the more honourable because rendered at a painful 
 
THE KHYBER PASS. 351 
 
 *' Camp Dliaka, 6th August, 1839. The mis- 
 sion with the Shah-zada having now effected the 
 passage through Khyber, and the fall of the 
 fort of Ali Musjid having been the chief means of 
 removing every opposition to its advance from 
 that place, Lieutenant Colonel Wade (although 
 the heads of the Government, whose officers and 
 troops were engaged in the reduction of that Fort, 
 are the proper persons to appreciate the services 
 performed by them on that occasion) cannot deny 
 himself the personal gratification of expressing his 
 own thanks and acknowledgments to every officer 
 of the British Government for the able and 
 zealous services rendered by them individually, 
 in the operations which led to the attainment of 
 an object, which, after a tedious detention at 
 Peshawur, has mainly contributed to facilitate the 
 progress of the Shah-zada to Cabul. 
 
 "It, fell to the lot of Captains Farmer and 
 Ferris, and of Lieutenants Mackeson, Maule, and 
 
 crisis of its affairs, opened the Khyber pass, and overthrew the 
 authority of the enemy in that quarter at the moment when the 
 advance of the forces of the Shah-zada Timour could most 
 conduce to the success of the general operations." 
 
35^ "^fHE KHYBER PASS. 
 
 Barr, in following the directions of Lieutenant 
 Colonel Wade, to bear the most conspicuous part 
 in the late military operations; and the gallantry 
 and perseverance with which these officers, and 
 the troops in general, acquitted themselves of their 
 respective duties, claim the Lieutenant Colonel's 
 especial notice : but where every officer, whether 
 immediately engaged in these operations, or in 
 other duties which were allotted to them, of equal 
 importance with those which devolved on others, 
 vied with each other in a zealous discharge of 
 them. Lieutenant Colonel Wade is conscious that, 
 while particularizing some, his obligations are 
 alike due to all; and in his report to Govern- 
 ment he has endeavoured to express his sense of 
 the services of each." 
 
CHAPTER XL 
 
 FROM DHAKA TO CABUL. 
 
 Our camp was pitched on the banks of the Cabul 
 river, which flowed silently and swiftly by, and 
 opposite to the village of Lallpoora, the principal 
 residence of Sadut Khan, who has erected a small 
 fort close to it. Intimation had been received 
 from that chief, avowing his willingness to come 
 to terms ; but the unceasing enmity that he had 
 evinced towards the Shah-zada since our arrival 
 in Peshawur, rendered it necessary to be prepared 
 to act on the offensive, in case he should change 
 his mind. Accordingly, some troops were ordered 
 on this service, and cannon were planted opposite 
 to his stronghold ; but no farther acts of hostility 
 ensued, and on the following morning the Colonel 
 was informed that the Momund lord, with his 
 
354 FROM DHAKA TO CABUL. 
 
 followers, had decamped during the night, and 
 gone off in the direction of Bajore. Wade, on this, 
 crossed the river, and took possession of Lallpoora, 
 and the fort, the government of which he con- 
 ferred on Toorabaz Khan, a chief who had proved 
 a most faithful ally to us. Dowson, with his 
 regiment, was ordered to remain here for the 
 purpose of keeping the western extremity of the 
 pass open, and co-operating with Ferris ; and 
 Mackeson's cousin, with a party of from 150 to 
 ^00 */ bildars," in lieu of pioneers, was directed 
 to repair, or rather re-construct the road, at the 
 Lundy Khana pass. 
 
 At Dhaka we staid about a week, my health, 
 at first, being a good deal improved ; but this 
 long halt on a swampy piece of ground, and the 
 extreme heat of the valley, brought back my fever, 
 which reduced me considerably. For change of 
 air and scene I embarked on a raft constructed 
 of " mussucks," or inflated skins, on which a 
 charpaee was bound. It was large enough to hold 
 three of us in addition to the two rowers ; and 
 the rapidity with which we glided down the 
 stream, and the buoyancy of the vessel when car- 
 
FROM DHAKA TO CABUL. 355 
 
 ried into the rapids, was extremely gratifying. I 
 was, however, so weak, that on landing I was obliged 
 to be supported to my tent, but a few yards distant, 
 by Rattray and Maule ; and as the fever again 
 returned in the afternoon, I was not sorry to 
 learn we were to re-commence our march on the 
 following morning, when we quitted Dhaka at 
 daybreak, and in half-an-hour reached a narrow 
 and confined pass, called the "koord," or " little," 
 Khyber. The road through this was execrable, 
 and had in some parts to be widened before 
 the guns could proceed ; indeed, so many were 
 difficulties they had to encounter, that they did 
 not reach Hazarnow, where we halted, till late in 
 the day. This village is situated in an amphi- 
 theatre of hills, and being of some size, backed 
 by mountains, with a few trees in its neighbour- 
 hood, looked rather pretty than otherwise. 
 
 Dawn, the next morning, saw us on our march 
 to Chardeh, a village twelve miles distant from 
 Hazarnow, and the bearers of my doolie, by way 
 of a short cut, carried me along a path surrounded 
 on either side by long feathery grass, that towered 
 far above our heads, and where, amidst occasional 
 
350 PROM DHAKA TO CABUL. 
 
 openings, might be seen black and turbid pools 
 of water, betokening anything but a healthy state 
 of atmosphere. Quitting this path, which was 
 some miles in extent, we crossed a narrow pass 
 of no length, formed by the spines of two opposite 
 ranges of hills, nearing each other. On its sum- 
 mit, was a cairn of stones, surmounted by a white 
 flag, by the side of which a fakeer kept ** tom- 
 tomming" (drumming) and soliciting alms from 
 the passers by. As soon as we had rounded the 
 gorge we entered on an extensive plain, enclosed 
 by distant hills, where, at the base of those to the 
 north, the Cabul river flows ; and on our right we 
 passed a couple of small forts very near to each 
 other, and erected in a kind of hollow formed by 
 the mountains, which at this spot assume a circular 
 direction. Chardeh has nothing to boast of; and 
 as my nights were now restless, and almost sleep- 
 less, I was glad when the morning broke, and we 
 marched to Ali Boghan, a distance of sixteen 
 miles. The bearers of my litter, on this occasion, 
 had been changed, in consequence of the old set 
 having allowed one of their comrades to desert 
 during the night ; and as a punishment, the sur- 
 
FROM DHAKA TO CABUL. 357 
 
 geon had ordered them to be put to other and 
 more arduous duty. I had, however, no reason 
 to be pleased at the arrangement ; for their sub- 
 stitutes had not advanced a couple of miles, w^hen 
 first one and then another dropped to the ground, 
 being overcome by fever and heat. This left me 
 with only three men, a number insufficient to lift 
 the doolie ; and as the larger portion of the 
 column had already passed by, it became a serious 
 question how I was to proceed. Happily, Reid 
 at this moment rode up, and as the Shah-zada's 
 elephant was approaching, he suggested I should 
 make use of it. I assented, as there was not 
 much likelihood of a more suitable conveyance 
 presenting itself; and, transferring a change of 
 raiment that was being conveyed for His Royal 
 Highness into the litter, I seated myself in the 
 howdah. Here I was exposed to the whole force 
 of the sun's rays, until, through the kind exertions 
 of Rattray, I obtained an umbrella, which in some 
 measure shaded me ; but I still found the heat 
 very oppressive, and the jolting motions of the 
 elephant far from agreeable. About three quarters 
 of the way, we passed through a defile of some 
 
358 FROM DHAKA TO CABUL. 
 
 extent, which is bounded on either side by low 
 hills and rocks, tinged with a reddish hue, and is 
 well known as a notorious resort of robbers. 
 Emerging from it we, in a short time, reached 
 our encampment, from whence we saw the Cabul 
 river on our right, and in front, the city of Julla- 
 labad looming in the distance. The Shah-zada, 
 in the evening, on learning that I had been 
 obliged to make use of his elephant, was not 
 only not displeased at the liberty I had taken, 
 but expressed the gratification it gave him to 
 know that the animal had been of service to me. 
 How different would his father, the haughty Shah 
 Shoojah, have behaved! but the prince is kind 
 in the extreme, and has on several occasions sent 
 me lumps of hardened snow to apply to my 
 temples, when throbbing with pain. His atten- 
 tions to Maule, for whom he has taken a fancy, 
 are unbounded ; and, day after day, large trays 
 of fruit and ice are brought to him with the 
 prince's salaam. It is a pity he is so deficient 
 in energy, as his whole nature is replete with the 
 milk of human kindness ; and without it, he will 
 never be able to control the tumultuous passions 
 
FROM DHAKA TO CABUL. g^C) 
 
 of the turbulent AfFghans, should it ever be his 
 lot to rule over them.* 
 
 We started at the usual hour on the morning of 
 the 1 7th, and after passing over a level and unin- 
 teresting country, reached Jullalabad at eight 
 o'clock. I was much disappointed at the miser- 
 able appearance of this town, composed as it is of 
 wretched mud hovels with flat roofs, and sur- 
 rounded by a wall of the same material. The 
 main street was almost empty, and yet there must 
 have been a considerable number of inhabitants 
 somewhere, as I noticed the butchers' shops were 
 most numerous, and all well stocked with pro- 
 visions. Most of the residents we fell in with 
 had their complexions stained with the yellow 
 tinge of sickness, which did not say much for its 
 situation ; but we soon ceased to regard this with 
 any surprise, when, during the four days of our 
 sojourn in its neighbourhood, we found the 
 changes of temperature to be so considerable. 
 At noon the thennometer never stood lower than 
 102, and a hot wind blew all the day ; but at 
 
 * Consequent on the events that have lately occurred in 
 Affghanistan, the prince is again a pensioner of the British 
 Government in India. 
 
360 FI^OM DHAKA TO CABUL. 
 
 night it became so cold, that counterpanes and 
 blankets were absolutely necessary to defend us 
 from its influence. Under such a climate I did 
 not rally much, and, in addition to one third of 
 the several regiments and detachments being on 
 the sick report, numbers were daily swelling the 
 list, and, amongst others, the surgeon, who, about 
 this time, was laid up with fever, brought on by 
 exposure and attention to his arduous duties. 
 Amongst the levies the deaths were frequent ; and 
 to such a height did the sickness at last attain, 
 that it became necessary to make arrangements 
 for the reception of the invalids at JuUalabad, as 
 there was no carriage to convey them further. 
 Hillersdon's regiment was also ordered to remain 
 with Mackeson, who has been appointed to per- 
 form the duties of political agent here. 
 
 On the 2ist we marched to Charbagh, which, 
 from its proximity to some hills, we found re- 
 markably warm ; and, on the 22nd, moved to 
 Bahibagh, about eight miles distant from the 
 former. I had benefited so much by the change 
 from JuUalabad, that I resolved to mount my 
 horse on the following morning, and though it 
 
FROM DHAKA TO CABUL. 3(51 
 
 was with some difficulty I threw my leg across the 
 saddle, I managed, before I took to my litter, 
 to ride some three or four miles. The sun was 
 by this time up, and we soon after descended to 
 the bed of a clear stream, where the road was 
 very bad, and continued to be so, with sundry 
 ascents and descents, till we reached a prettily 
 situated village at no great distance from the 
 gardens of Neemla, near to which Shah Shoojah 
 lost a battle, which terminated in his expulsio 
 from Affghanistan. Opposite to the village we 
 commenced a steep ascent that lasted for some 
 distance, and then terminated in a tolerably level 
 road that ran along the ridge of a hill, where the 
 pure breeze was blowing with a freshness that we 
 had not tasted for months, and which was really 
 delicious. Three or four descents ensued before 
 we reached Gundamuck,* and one of these led to 
 
 * It need scarcely be remarked, that, during the late dis- 
 astrous retreat from Cabul, the last stand made by the British 
 troops occurred in the neighbourhood of Gundamuck, where 
 nearly the whole of the little resolute band were cut to pieces. 
 From hence to Cabul the passes must ever be associated with the 
 dreadful massacres that took place on that fatal occasion. 
 
 R 
 
362 FROM DHAKA TO CABUL. 
 
 a stream, over which a picturesque bridge, now in 
 a dilapidated state, had been thrown by some of 
 the Mogul emperors. We had to ascend from 
 this to Gundamuck, where the temperature was 
 delightful when compared with the excessive 
 heats we had encountered in the valleys of Pesha- 
 wur and Jullalabad, and the quantities of peaches, 
 melons, grapes, and other fruits wliich the natives 
 brought for sale, showed that we had come into a 
 more genial clime. So abundant were the grapes, 
 that they sold us a donkey's load of them for one 
 rupee, or two shillings, and the quantity was more 
 than enough to satisfy ourselves and servants 
 indeed had we been possessed of a smaller silver 
 coin, the venders would have considered themselves 
 amply remunerated with it in lieu of the larger. 
 Night closed in before a report reached us that 
 the guns had only succeeded in crowning the 
 heights above Neemla, and a halt was, in conse- 
 quence, called for the 24th, when they reached 
 camp at noon, most of the horses being knocked 
 up, and two of them killed by the fatigue they 
 had undergone. Notwithstanding I had suffered 
 from an attack of ague in the morning, I was able 
 
FROM DHAKA TO CABUL. ^63 
 
 to walk (my first essay for a long time) a short dis- 
 tance to inspect some ordnance that had been 
 abandoned by Mahomed Akbar Khan during his 
 flight from the Khyber, and which fell into our 
 hands here. It consisted of ten or twelve brass 
 cannons, mostly of small calibre, and I omitted to 
 mention, that between Jullalabad and Charbagh, 
 we passed a very large brass gun, moy-uted on a 
 most rudely constructed carriage, the naves of the 
 wheels being about two feet and a half in 
 diameter, and the felloes thick in proportion, 
 which he had also been unable to carry away in 
 his retreat. 
 
 Soon after leaving Gundamuck, we descended 
 a steep bank to the bed of a crystal stream, which 
 we forded, and then climbed a more gentle slope 
 on its opposite side. The road was subsequently 
 confined between low ridges of hills, and though 
 narrow, was tolerably good. A gradual descent 
 eventually brought us to Soorkab, a name the spot 
 enjoys from the deep red colour of a small river 
 that flows by it, and which is spanned by a stone 
 bridge. The heat here was dreadful, our encamp- 
 ment being enclosed on all sides by steep and 
 
 r2 
 
3g4^ FROM DHAKA TO CABUL. 
 
 rocky hills, which re-cast the sun's rays upon us, 
 and prevented any breeze that might be blowing 
 from reaching us. My fever again returned, and 
 I felt extremely ill. The next morning we crossed 
 by a succession of difficult passes and defiles to 
 Jugdulluck, where, beneath the shade of a pretty 
 clump of trees, we managed to spend a more agree- 
 able day. The march must have been at least 
 thirteen miles long, and the road in parts was very 
 steep and rugged. After gaining the crest of the 
 last ghat, we had a gradual descent of about five 
 miles to the village, the road being nothing more 
 than the bed of a stream, enclosed by hills covered 
 with dwarf trees, that opened out as we neared the 
 termination of our journey. Jugdulluck is cele- 
 brated as the spot where Shah Zeman, the elder 
 brother of Shah Shoojah, and now a pensioner at 
 Loodianah on the British Government, had his 
 eyes put out by a lancet. We left it early on the 
 following morning, and crossing another series of 
 steep ascents and deep descents, reached Bareekhab, 
 where our camp was formed in a close and confined 
 hollow, into which the rays of the sun appeared to 
 be concentrated. During the march an attempt 
 
FROM DHAKA TO CABUL, 3^5 
 
 was made to murder a Cliuprasee attached to the 
 mission, but fortunately his cries were heard, and 
 one of the miscreants being secured was made 
 over to the Shah-zada for punishment. The guns 
 having to make a longer circuit, and descend the 
 Paraderie Pass, did not reach Bareekhab till late 
 in the evening. 
 
 The next day we passed over a succession of 
 bare and rugged hills, until on crossing a gorge, 
 we descended by an abrupt steep to the bed of a 
 stream, and close to a curious rock, beneatli which 
 a fakeer had taken up his residence, and where he 
 no doubt finds a profitable employment, as the 
 trees in its neighbourhood are covered with pieces 
 of rag, the offerings of the superstitious. At this 
 rock I once more mounted my steed, and rode for 
 three or four miles along the bed of the stream, 
 (our only road) which was encumbered by huge 
 boulder-stones, and enclosed by steep hills, on 
 which grew some straggling trees, but partially 
 covered with foliage. After returning to my 
 doolie, we passed on our right an old and ruined 
 fort, around which were vestiges of a village, and 
 thence continuing up the defile for thrcQ or four 
 
gQQ FROM DHAKA TO CABUL. 
 
 miles further, we reached Tezeen, our halting- 
 ground. Being of some considerable altitude, we 
 were favoured with a cool breeze throughout the 
 day, and the change of temperature benefited me 
 so much, that I was enabled to ride on the follow- 
 ing morning, when we continued our march.- 
 After quitting the valley of Tezeen, we entered a 
 very confined and narrow pass, with perpendicular 
 crags towering up on either side, and a small rivulet 
 forcing its way between them. At its termination 
 we reached the foot of an extremely steep hill, 
 which, having ascended, we were greeted by a keen 
 and cutting wind, that betokened the loftiness of 
 its situation, its summit being upwards of 8000 
 feet above the level of the sea. We then crossed 
 over a succession of ascents and descents, I con- 
 clude to the number of seven, as they are termed 
 the Haft Kotul, or Seven Passes, the road being 
 tolerably good, and unencumbered with stones. 
 From thence we had a gradual descent to our 
 encampment, pitched on some fields from off 
 which the harvest had been carried, and nearly 
 surrounded on three sides by hills at no great 
 distance. 
 
FROM DHAKA TO CABUL. ggy 
 
 On the 1st of September we moved to Bhoot- 
 khak, our road for the first five miles being confined 
 to the Khoord Cabul pass, a narrov^^ defile bounded 
 on either side by precipitous and lofty mountains, 
 whose frowning summits darkened the chasm, as in 
 the early morning we crossed and recrossed a small 
 rivulet that rapidly sped down its shingly bed. 
 We then entered on an open valley, bounded on 
 the west by a low range of hills, which concealed 
 the long-desired city of Cabul from our sight, and 
 in half-an-hour arrived at our encampment. Some 
 stragglers having lagged in the pass, were attacked 
 by the Ghiljies, who killed one or two and 
 wounded the remainder, before they could effect 
 their escape. In the evening we were rejoined by 
 the guns that last night had remained near the 
 Huft Kotul, the men having with the greatest difli- 
 culty, succeeded in dragging them up the stupen- 
 dous ascent of the pass, under the superintendence 
 of Maule, who has had charge of them ever since 
 leaving Gundamuck, and to whom, therefore, much 
 credit is due. Despatches intimating our approach 
 were sent in the course of the day to the envoy at 
 Shah Shoojah's court, and to the commander-in- 
 
3(JS FROM DHAKA TO CABUL. 
 
 chief, Sir John Keane ; and on the following day 
 we halted to be in proper trim for our march into 
 Cabul, when in the evening the Sikh troops were 
 inspected in full dress, and their appearance 
 brought forth the Colonel's encomiums. At length 
 the day arrived on which we were to reach the long- 
 desired goal, and as my health had considerably 
 improved, I resolved, with the doctor's permission, 
 ia take part in the procession. Accordingly on the 
 morning of the 3d September, I stepped into my 
 litter, and having been carried halfway, mounted 
 my charger, and drew up my detachment on the 
 right of the road. On the Shah-zada's appearing 
 in sight, we saluted him with twenty-one guns, also 
 a signal for the troops at Cabul to get under arms ; 
 and as he neared us we wheeled into column, and 
 headed the procession. 
 
CHAPTEE Xir. 
 
 FROM CABUL TO FEROZEPORE 
 
 After gaining the summit of rather a steep emi- 
 nence, the city of Cabul suddenly burst on our 
 sight, and being situated between a couple of for- 
 tified hills, formed an extremely pleasing picture. 
 It was about three miles distant : the intervening 
 space presenting an animated scene, covered as 
 it was with innumerable tents, and crowded 
 with soldiers of every description that composed 
 " the army of the Indus." The road from the 
 eminence to the city was lined with troops from 
 Bengal and Bombay, the several regiments pre- 
 senting arms and the artillery firing royal sa- 
 lutes as the Shah-zada passed. It was late in 
 the day ere we reached the walls of the town, 
 close to which ground had been marked out for 
 our encampment, but my friends D. and Dr. M. 
 
 R 3 
 
370 FROM CABUL TO FEROZEPORE. 
 
 who had joined me on the road, observing the 
 weak state I was in, persuaded me to enter a tent 
 until my own should arrive. Here I unrobed 
 myself, and was accommodated with a comfortable 
 dressing-gown in lieu of the stiff dress-jacket ; but 
 I was a good deal knocked up by fatigue, and M., 
 on feeling my pulse, found it pelting away at 130 
 per minute. On the following morning I visited 
 the city in the colonel's " tonjon," and was very 
 much struck with the handsome appearance of 
 the chief bazaar, called the ** char-chattur," from 
 its being enclosed or covered in. Here and there, 
 however, octagonal areas which formerly possessed 
 reservoirs of water, now choked up, broke the line 
 of roof, and not only admitted light, but caused a 
 free circulation of air to pass underneath the ar- 
 cades, which without them must otherwise have 
 been confined and unhealthy. Of all the shops, 
 the most attractive are the fruiterers', and they 
 arrange with much taste the numberless luscious 
 edibles that they offer for sale. Grapes of every 
 variety and size, water and musk melons, (the 
 pride of the CabuUies,) apples, pears, quinces, 
 pomegranates, &c., are piled up in front of their 
 
FROM CABUL TO FEROZEPORE. 37 1 
 
 " dokans," and are in such profusion that it seems 
 astonishing there should be found customers nu- 
 merous enough to purchase the hills of fruit that 
 everywhere catch the eye. Next to the fruiterers 
 the trades that predominate are the leather-sellers, 
 furriers, braziers, butchers, and cooks, and the 
 constant ingress and egress of individuals to and 
 from the shops of the latter bespeak it as a 
 thriving profession. 
 
 Soon after my return to camp, I was seized with 
 a violent fit of ague, a circumstance by no means 
 surprising, as the ground below us was so moist 
 that on pushing a stick into it to the depth of a 
 foot and then withdrawing it, water oozed out of 
 the hole. To hope for recovery when in such a 
 situation was useless, and I was therefore instantly 
 removed to higher ground, occupied by the Bengal 
 horse-artillery. The next day, at the same hour, a 
 similar attack followed, and I was then bled in the 
 cold stage without deriving those immediate bene- 
 fits it was thought I should have done, and subse- 
 quently it was not expected I could survive the 
 night. From it, however, I date my recovery, as 
 the following morning passed over without an 
 
37^ FROM CABUL TO FEROZEPORE. 
 
 attack, and I gradually regained sufficient strength 
 to move about in a few days with the aid of a 
 stick, and in due course of time to convalescence. 
 
 About the 5th of September we received intel- 
 ligence of the murder of Colonel Herring, who 
 was on his way to Cabul in command of a treasure 
 party, and who one evening, having incautiously 
 ascended an eminence, a short distance from his 
 camp at Hyder Kliel, accompanied only by a cou- 
 ple of officers and two or three sepoys, was sud- 
 denly and unexpectedly attacked by a number of 
 robbers, who succeeded in killing the Colonel and 
 wounding one of the officers, Lieut. Rind. The 
 latter individual, with the rest of the party, made 
 good their escape to camp, on which a large de- 
 tachment started off in pursuit of the villains, who 
 were, however, nowhere to be found. The body 
 of their victim was recovered and brought on to 
 Cabul, where it was interred in the Armenian 
 burying-ground, beside the remains of Brigadier 
 Arnold. Captain Fothergill, of H. M. 13th, was 
 buried the same evening ; and a few days after- 
 wards Captain Timmings, of the Bengal horse- 
 artillery, was laid by his side. 
 
FROM CABUL TO FEROZEPORE. 373 
 
 On the 16th the Bombay troops moved their 
 camp to the westward of Cabul, preparatory to 
 commencing their return march, and the night 
 previous to their departure M. and I were aroused 
 by loud vociferations of " Choor, choor !" (thief, 
 thief!) On inquiring into the reason of all the 
 noise, it was soon ascertained that some rascals, 
 under the cover of a dark night, had succeeded in 
 opening one of my boxes, placed between a couple 
 of my servants, (fast asleep at the time,) and 
 abstracting therefrom some two hundred rupees' 
 worth of property. There is but little doubt the 
 thieves were from the Bombay column, and most 
 probably some of the camp followers, who, knowing 
 they were to be at a distance next morning, hoped 
 to escape without detection, and, what was worse, 
 they did. 
 
 Towards the end of the month a review of the 
 Sikh troops under Colonel Shaik Bussowan took 
 place, for the inspection of His Majesty Shah 
 Shoojah. I rode to the parade ground, and saw, 
 for the first time, the King of Cabul. He was 
 seated in a highly-ornamented litter, dressed 
 plainly, in the royal purple, and had a handsome 
 
374 FROM CABUL TO FEROZEPORE. 
 
 expression of countenance, with a long flowing 
 black beard that derived its colour and glossiness 
 from the hands of a barber. He was attended by 
 a long train of servants, habited in the costume 
 of the days of Baber and Timour, and a more 
 outre apparel can scarcely be conceived; some 
 wearing a species of horn growing out of each 
 shoulder, and others, a head-piece not very unlike 
 a fool's-cap : H. M. executioner, was one of 
 these. Sir AV. Cotton, Sir Alexander Burnes, 
 Mr. MacNaghten, and other men of celebrity, 
 were also on the ground. 
 
 Beyond Baber's Tomb, there was little to inte- 
 rest one in the environs of C^bul ; but there was 
 much in the city, which I often visited, and the 
 loud hum and busy crowd of people appeared 
 each successive day to be rather increased than 
 diminished; indeed, at times, it was absolutely 
 difficult to push one's way through the dense 
 population that filled its streets, and choked its 
 bazaars. I passed through the Bala Hissar, a 
 sort of interior fort, in which stands the king's 
 palace, a building of no pretensions to architec- 
 ture, and only to be distinguished from the neigh- 
 
FROM CABUL TO FEROZEPORE. 3^5 
 
 bouring houses by its size. A diminutive town 
 has sprung up by its side. Above the gateway 
 through which I made my exit his Majesty's 
 band was playing, and reminded me strongly of 
 his son's at Peshawur, except that the instruments 
 being more numerous, the discord was the greater. 
 Opposite to the Bala Hissar, but outside the 
 walls of the fort, is a small mosque, of no great 
 antiquity. Sheltered by a few trees, and close to 
 it, lies a small tombstone, (evidently removed from 
 its original situation,) which bears an inscription 
 purporting to cover the remains of " John Hicks, 
 son of John and Edith Hicks, who departed this 
 lyfe in 1666," or to that effect; the words being 
 carved in plain letters, and carried round the slab 
 without any attention being paid to their division 
 into syllables. It is a curious relic, and at some 
 future time we may possibly learn who this indivi- 
 dual was that found a grave in so distant a country, 
 at a period when little or nothing was known of the 
 existence of Affghanistan. The Armenian bury- 
 ing ground is situated about a mile to the south 
 of .the mosque, and is likely to form the English 
 cemetery as well. Returning from it, there is a 
 
376 FROM CABUL TO FEROZEPORE. 
 
 pretty view of the Bala Hissar to be had through 
 a vista of trees, from whence a portion of it is to 
 be seen standing as iT by itself, and appearing 
 not unlike an English castle. 
 
 The objects of Colonel Wade*s mission having 
 been brought to a conclusion, and the Shah-zada 
 safely lodged in the palace, a report was made 
 by the Colonel to Sir John Keane, that he no 
 longer required the services of the British troops ; 
 on which they were transferred, on the 1st of 
 October, to ** the army of the Indus," and I joined 
 Captain G.'s troop of horse-artillery ; the howit- 
 zers being left with the assistant-commissary of 
 ordnance, who was to remain at Cabul. Rumours 
 were now rife that the troops destined to return 
 to Hindoostan would soon march ; but as pay 
 was a very requisite article, and the treasure 
 chest was nearly empty, it was necessary we 
 should await the arrival of Captain Hopkins's 
 detachment, which was convoying some thirteen 
 lakhs of rupees for our use from the provinces. 
 To protect it from the predatory Ghiljies that 
 infest the passes between Jullalabad and Cabul, 
 the 3rd cavaliy were sent to escort it from Jug- 
 
FROM CABUL TO FEROZEPORK. 3^7 
 
 dulluck ; and, after a harassing march, they re- 
 turned to camp on the 8th, with the long-expected 
 remittances, a portion of which was immediately 
 disbursed to the troops, who were in much need 
 of it. Unwilling to quit Cabul without seeing 
 the tomb of the celebrated Baber, which was at 
 the western side of the city, I rode there in com- 
 pany with M., and attended by an escort of 
 troopers, as it was not considered safe to move far 
 from the limits of our position without a guard. 
 Our route took us through several streets in the 
 city that I had not visited before, but they were 
 by no means equal to the main thoroughfare in 
 appearance. We crossed the river by a bridge, 
 and skirting its banks, passed through a stony 
 defile, formed by an opening between the forti- 
 fied hills, down which the stream flows. The 
 scenery here is strikingly pretty; lofty and pre- 
 cipitous crags rise on either side of the water, 
 which is fringed with mulberry, willow, and other 
 trees ; the rocks above momentarily threaten to 
 topple from their lofty situations and block up 
 the road below, or overwhelm the passing travel- 
 lers; and in front, an old bridge, picturesque in 
 
378 FROM CABUL TO FEROZEPORE. 
 
 decay, obstructed the progress of the stream 
 which rolls against it, before seeking an outlet 
 through its ruined arches. The morning was 
 clear aiid frosty, and a cutting wind greeted us, as 
 we passed up this valley. We crossed the bridge, 
 and cantering along a good road, reached a re- 
 spectable and clean-looking village. A short 
 distance beyond, we came to an enclosure, crowded 
 with mulberry, plane, and other trees, whose 
 spreading branches were well calculated to afford 
 a grateful shade during a summer's day, but which 
 we would have gladly exchanged for a little sun- 
 shine, as our fingers were nipped with the cold. 
 We entered the garden, a series of terraces that 
 had once been planted with flowers and shrubs, 
 but now overrun by a jungle, and ascending a 
 paved walk, by the side of which a rippling stream 
 came purling down, we stood at the grave of the 
 conqueror of the East a small slab of marble, 
 with a Persian inscription. It was simple, and 
 would be passed unnoticed, but for the celebrity 
 of the remains that lie beneath it. Other and 
 more costly monuments are in its vicinity, but 
 they are comparatively unheeded, and the eye 
 
FROM CABUL TO FEROZEPORE. 379 
 
 turns from them to rest again on the more hum- 
 ble sepulchre of the monarch who, less honoured 
 in his death, has left a name that will perish only 
 with the earth. 
 
 On returning we made a slight deviation in our 
 route, and instead of crossing the bridge near the 
 entrance of the defile, we kept on the right bank, 
 and passed a large mausoleum, where an ancestor 
 of Shah Shoojah's is buried. As we went through 
 the city we resolved to taste the far-famed " kababs," 
 and accordingly adjourning to a cook's shop, where 
 we paid a couple of annas, (or three pence,) before^ 
 hand, we were ushered into an upper apartment, 
 on the floor of which we discovered an Affghan 
 seated, and busily engaged upon the art of gas- 
 tronomy. He was so polite as to offer us a portion 
 of his food, which M., to show his fellow-feeling, 
 tasted, and on our own fare being brought in, 
 piping hot, a large quantity of it was transferred 
 to our new acquaintance, who readily received it 
 from our hands. Having got our breakfast before 
 us, we were now at a loss what to do with it, as 
 knives and forks there were none, and instead of 
 plates we each had a long flat piece of unleavened 
 bread, on which the " kababs" were placed, and 
 
380 FROM CABUL TO FEROZEPORE. 
 
 which required a steady hand to keep them in 
 their position. We looked at them for a moment, 
 but it was no use sticking at trifles, so boldly 
 seizing the end of a skewer, on which the lumps 
 of meat had been spitted, we commenced work, 
 our plates gradually diminishing in size, and dis- 
 appearing as fast as the viands on the top of them. 
 In spite of the visions of dead camels, cats, dogs, 
 and other villanous compounds, which we were 
 assured formed the ingredients of these savoury 
 messes, (an officer having see7i a leg of the first- 
 named beast carried into a cook-shop at Canda- 
 har,) we got on admirably well, and not only 
 enjoyed our meal, but at its termination pro- 
 nounced an encomium on the cookery of the 
 AfTghans. 
 
 On the 5th or 6th, Wade departed with the 
 Sikh troops; and on the 15th the first column, 
 consisting of H. M. 16th Lancers, two companies 
 of Sappers and Miners, a guard of Infantry and 
 local horse, and head-quarters' staff, with Sir 
 John Keane, commenced their march for the pro- 
 vinces, and we of the second column followed 
 on the 16th. The feeling of delight that per- 
 vaded the army when, after so many hardships, 
 
FROM CABUL TO FEROZEPORE. ggj 
 
 it once more turned its face towards Hindostan, 
 was universal ; and I may say the regret that filled 
 
 the breasts of those who were destined to remain 
 in AfFghanistan was as unanimous. Many appoint- 
 ments in the Shah's service had been offered to 
 officers, and declined by them ; and even soldiers 
 who could have got salaries of 100 or 200 rupees 
 per mensem, in lieu of their comparatively trifling 
 pay, refused to remain behind on even these (to 
 them) splendid terms. The paradise that all ex- 
 pected to see in the beauties of AfFghanistan had 
 faded as we advanced, and a dreary spectacle of 
 barren mountains and swampy valleys occupied its 
 place. True it is, a few bright gleams of scenery 
 do occasionally meet the eye, but they are scarce, 
 and travellers in their hasty journeys have allowed 
 their thoughts to dwell on these lovely spots, ren- 
 dered more beautiful by the contrast of the sur- 
 rounding country ; and, in their descriptions, have 
 forgotten to mention the more marked features of 
 the province, which consists of desolation and 
 barrenness. 
 
 The rendezvous of our column was at the foot 
 of the hill I spoke of as having obscured our view 
 
382 FROM CABUL TO FEROZEPORE. 
 
 of Cabul when at Bootkhak, and here we had to 
 wait some time for a squadron of the 3rd cavalry, 
 that had been despatched to the Bala Hissar, for 
 two state prisoners, Hyder Khan, the Governor 
 of Ghuzni and Dost Mahomed's third son, and 
 the traitor Hadji Khan Kakur. On their arrival, 
 we commenced our march in the following order, 
 the column being commanded by General Thack- 
 well : 3rd light cavalry state prisoners Captain 
 Grant's troop of horse artillery Lieut. Ban's 
 detachment of ditto 4th local horse Drafts from 
 the European regiment, and native invalids return- 
 ing to the provinces. On crossing the Logar river, 
 spanned by a narrow bridge without a parapet, a 
 gun was capsized into the water, with all the men 
 and horses. Fortunately the stream, though of 
 an icy coldness, was of no great depth, and tht> 
 gunners, with four horses, were soon rescued from 
 their uncomfortable situation. The pole horses 
 had unluckily got entangled in the harness as 
 they fell, and notwithstanding every exertion was 
 made to save them, they were drowned. A ha- 
 vildar of the Lascars, who was seated on the gun, 
 had a narrow escape, as he was for several minutes 
 
FROM CABUL TO FEROZEPORE. 3g3 
 
 under water before he could be removed from his 
 dangerous position, and, wonderful to relate, he 
 nad only received a severe contusion on the back. 
 Our encampment was at Bootkhak, where, as the 
 advance column had been fired upon the previous 
 night from the heights above, it became necessary 
 to use more than ordinary precautions to guard 
 the prisoners, lest any attempt at a rescue should 
 be made ; and extra sentries were planted round 
 their tents at the suggestion of Captain M* Sherry, 
 who had the immediate charge of them. On the 
 17th we moved to Khoord Cabul, the ascent of the 
 narrow defile leading to it being accomplished in 
 a cold wind, that cut us to the skin, whilst the 
 splashings from the water, as we crossed the stream, 
 froze before it could drop from the skirts of our 
 cloaks, or the tips of our steel scabbards. The 
 next day we marched to Tezeen, and as we neared 
 the summit of the lofty " Huft Kotul," we passed 
 the dead body of a native, who had evidently died 
 from the severity of the weather, and who, with out- 
 stretched armsjwas lying flat on his face, apparently 
 having fallen in that position while making a last 
 struggle to gain the top. He had been stripped of 
 
334 FROM CABUL TO FEROZEPORE. 
 
 every rag ; and not far distant the corpse of another 
 was seen in the cleft of a ravine, which the poor 
 fellow had entered with the vain hope of screening 
 himself from the keen blast that hurried up the 
 pass, and where, instead of the repose of sleep, he 
 had found a more lasting rest in death. 
 
 Camels that had dropped whilst carrying the 
 baggage of the preceding column dotted our path ; 
 some in the agonies of death, others insensible or 
 perfectly stiff ; and these, strange to say, were not 
 the most attenuated and sickly, but the hale- 
 looking and stout, and such as would be expected 
 to travel for many a day to come. Each individual 
 thought that a similar fate must, of necessity, 
 attend his own beast of burden, and the inquiries 
 as to whose camels had sat down (for it was 
 remarkable, that when once they assumed this 
 posture on the line of march they might be aban- 
 doned, as few ever rose again) was constantly to 
 be heard. From Tezeen we proceeded to the 
 Fakeer's Rock, where w^e halted on a shingly bank 
 nearly opposite to it, and not far from the entrance 
 to the Luttabund j^ass, a shorter route to Cabul, 
 only fit for horsemen and foot-passengers. We 
 
FROM CABUL TO FEROZEPORE. 335 
 
 encamped on the SOth at Kutta Sung, a mile or 
 two beyond Bareekhab, and, on the march, again 
 passed the body of a camp-follower, whose energies 
 had been clasped by the cold hand of death just as 
 he had succeeded in climbing to the summit of a 
 steep pass, his emaciated frame betokening that 
 disease and famine had previously made sad in- 
 roads on his constitution. Jugdulluck was our 
 next halting-ground, but instead of traversing the 
 range of hills, over which I had been carried in the 
 litter, we ascended the wonderful "puree duree," 
 or " fairy pass," formed by a deep cleft in the 
 mountains that extends between three and four 
 miles in length. The scene was savage and wild 
 in the extreme, and the defile so contracted at 
 times, as barely to allow a passage for the guns. 
 In one part the cliffs even met within seven feet 
 of each other, the space between being occupied 
 by a stream that narrowed as it forced its way 
 through them, and then widened out again as it 
 left the obstruction behind. The loftiness of the 
 precipices prevented the sun shining into the 
 pass, and the cold was consequently so intense as 
 to cause numbers of camels to lie on the ground, 
 
 s 
 
386 FROM CABUL TO FEROZEPORK 
 
 or in the water, wherever they chanced to drop ; 
 and in this position they remained, never to rise 
 again. 
 
 On the 22nd we were at Soorkab, and once 
 more encamped on the banks of the " red river." 
 During the day a portion of the rear-guard was 
 attacked by a large body of robbers, whose num- 
 bers compelled the sepoys to intrench themselves 
 behind a bank, where they gallantly maintained 
 the combat, and had several of their party killed ; 
 amongst the rest was the Jemadar, or native officer 
 in command, who was shot when in the act of 
 stooping to draw a cartridge from the pouch of one 
 of his dead soldiers, whose musket he had seized 
 and had made active use of. On the news reaching 
 camp, a squadron of cavalry and the 4th Locals 
 were sent back, but to no purpose, as the rascally 
 Ghiljies had meanwhile decamped. On the 23rd 
 we arrived at Gundamuck, and halted there on the 
 24th, and, on the 27th, entered Jullalabad, where 
 the army remained two days. I formed one of a 
 committee of officers to value the guns that I 
 mentioned had fallen into our hunds at Gunda- 
 muck, and which had since been brought to the 
 
FROM CABUL TO FEUOZEPORE. gg^ 
 
 last-named town ; and, having regarded them in the 
 light of old hrass, we estimated their price at 
 5,000 rupees, (500,) all the prize-money that we, 
 of the mission, will be entitled to a share of. On 
 the 30th we quitted Jullalabad, and on the 2nd 
 of November arrived at Dhaka. The 4th, from 
 daybreak to nightfall, was occupied in dragging 
 the ordnance up the steep pass of Lundy Khana, 
 which Mackeson had considerably improved, and 
 in marching to Ali Musjid, or rather a mile be- 
 yond it, where our encampment was formed. 
 None of the baggage of our immediate party came 
 up that night, and we were fortunate in obtaining 
 possession of some hospital litters that answered 
 in lieu of beds, though, from their shortness, they 
 were anything but comfortable. The next day, as 
 we halted, I took the opportunity of visiting the 
 fort, which illness had prevented my doing before, 
 and I was surprised to find its interior so small, 
 being only eighty yards long by twenty broad. It, 
 however, has an enclosure, which comprises a large 
 area, and takes in all the little irregularities in its 
 neighbourhood that are capable of being turned to 
 account in its defence. I afterwards breakfasted 
 
 s2 
 
388 FROM CABUL TO FEROZEPORE. 
 
 with Ferris and Dowson, who had moved up with 
 their troops in consequence of an endeavour made 
 by the Khyberries to repossess themselves of this 
 stronghold, and rumours of which had reached 
 us at Jullalabad. The former was looking ex- 
 tremely ill, and had for weeks been at death's 
 door ; the unwholesome climate of the pass not 
 only having driven him, but the whole of the 
 grenadiers of the 20th N. I., to Peshawur. When 
 they marched from Loodianah, in February last, 
 they were as fine a body of men as ever trod 
 ground, and their lively song, as they celebrated 
 the Hoolie festival on the line of march, told of a 
 set of fellows that were going to the wars with a 
 spirit bordering on that of British soldiers. Now 
 a few miserable men, worn with disease, and 
 scarcely able to shoulder their muskets, or drag 
 tlieir legs behind them, formed the company ; 
 fever and dysentery having carried off nearly half 
 of them, and those the finest-looking of the 
 band. On inquiring after some whom I had 
 more particularly remarked, the answer I received 
 was invariably, ** He is gone too," and the loss of 
 none I regretted more than of a havildar, (sergeant,) 
 
FROM CABUL TO FEROZEPORE. ggC) 
 
 by name Gooman Singh. He was havildar-ma- 
 jor to his regiment, and consequently exempted 
 from the present duty, but being a high-spirited 
 man, anxious (unlike most natives) to visit dis- 
 tant climes, he had volunteered to join his com- 
 pany, and fell a victim to his zeal. Ferris was 
 long despaired of, and having only a native doctor 
 to attend him, (who proved worse than none,) 
 his recovery was miraculous, and mainly to be 
 attributed, under Providence, to the fatherly care 
 shown to him by General Avitabile. 
 
 From Ferris I received the particulars of the 
 late assaults of the Khyberries, who commenced 
 them by attacking a post at Lall Chenie, gar- 
 risoned by 500 Nujeeb soldiers, the majority of 
 whom they succeeded in slaughtering : the rest 
 with difficulty made their escape to Jumrood. 
 Having committed this terrible massacre, they 
 proceeded to attack Ferris's position, at the fort 
 of Ali Musjid, but were repulsed with some loss ; 
 and night drawing on, compelled them to desist. 
 The next day, F. went to Lall Chenie, and in- 
 terred no less than 300 bodies of the Nujeebs ; 
 and when it is considered that many of those 
 
390 FROM CABUL TO FEROZEPORE. 
 
 who reached Jumrood must have been severely- 
 wounded, it is very probable no more than 150 
 sur^'ived that terrible onset. Another attack on 
 the part of the Khyberries was expected, and, as 
 the sequel proved, was not long in being made. 
 F. had, however, prepared a warm reception for 
 them, and he described the appearance of the 
 pass, as they advanced, to be nothing but a sea of 
 heads. Onwards they came till within thirty or 
 forty yards of a low wall, behind which a party of 
 picked men had been reclining with their match- 
 locks in readiness, and who, starting up at the 
 word of command, poured a deadly and unexpected 
 volley into the midst of the foe, which caused them 
 to send forth an unearthly and terrific yell, height- 
 ened by the shrieks and groans of the wounded. 
 Ferris, then, at the head of a party of horsemen, at 
 hand for the purpose, boldly galloped forward, and 
 was in the act of turning round to give a shout 
 of encouragement to his followers, preparatory to 
 charging, when he discovered he was, with one 
 exception,* alone; the cowardly sowars having 
 
 * The exception, if my memory serves, was the jemadar 
 whose gaunt mare used to outstrip our steeds at Michnee, 
 
FROM CABUL TO FEROZEPORE. 39 J 
 
 hung back. He was, by this time, close to, and 
 partly intermixed with the Khyberries, who could 
 have killed him in an instant; and how they 
 allowed him to escape he knows not to this day. 
 They, however, had suffered enough, and only 
 thought of making off with their dead and wounded ; 
 and thus affairs remained when the returning army 
 reached Ali Musjid. As F. had only irregulars 
 to depend on for the defence of the Khyber, he 
 applied to Sir John Keane for two companies of 
 infantry, which were granted to him ; and those of 
 the 27th Native Infantry, under Lieutenant Laing, 
 that had escorted the treasure to Cabul, were 
 ordered on the duty. 
 
 On the 6th we moved to Kuddum, a few stray 
 shots having been fired at the guards in charge of 
 the baggage ; and on the 7th we halted at Koulsir, 
 close to the ground so long occupied by the 
 mission, and which was now covered with fields of 
 grain. The next morning we marched to Pesha- 
 wur, and encamped on the eastern side of the city, 
 where we were only to have remained a couple of 
 days; but a longer sojourn was rendered necessary, 
 as the Sikh troops could not be prevailed upon to 
 
392 FROM CABUL TO FEROZEPORE. 
 
 convey grain to the garrison at Ali Musjid, who 
 had but a day or two's provision left. To effect 
 this desirable object, it therefore became neces- 
 sary, on the 10th, to send two companies of the 
 21st Native Infantry under Farmer, and one of 
 the Sappers and Miners under Lieutenant Mac- 
 leod, of the Engineers, on that duty, accompanied 
 by 500 Sikh soldiers, and escorted by a squadron 
 of cavalry and two guns to the entrance of the 
 pass. They succeeded in making over their charge 
 in safety; but on their return were opposed by 
 the Khyberries in force, who boldly attacked 
 them as they were threading the hills. The 
 Nujeebs, without attempting resistance, imme- 
 diately took to flight, hamstringing such camels 
 as obstructed their progress : and, at last, our own 
 sepoys, having expended all their ammunition, 
 were obliged to follow the example thus set them 
 of showing a quick pair of heels. The Afreedies, 
 perceiving the dismay they had created, threw 
 down their matchlocks, and advanced to close 
 quarters, with their deadly knives ; and the fero- 
 city with which they used these murderous wea- 
 pons was spoken of as being quite fiendish. A 
 
FROM CABUL TO FEROZEPORE. 393 
 
 large booty and a vast number of camels fell into 
 the enemy's hands, and were forthwith transferred 
 to their strongholds. The conduct of the Sikh 
 troops on this occasion gave so much offence to 
 General Avitabile, that he, in his capacity of Go- 
 vernor, denied them admittance into the town of 
 Peshawur, and ordered any of them that should 
 be seen in it to be severely beaten with a slipper, 
 the most derogatory punishment that can be in- 
 flicted on a native. 
 
 After this defeat, it was necessary for the re- 
 turning army to remain at Peshawur until Colonel 
 Wheeler, who, with the 48th Native Infantry, had 
 been sent for from Jullalabad, should arrive to the 
 succour of the garrison of Ali Musjid, as that fort 
 was now sure of being attacked by the Khyberries. 
 Meanwhile balled ammunition was being made 
 up in our camp as fast as possible, and all the 
 available infantry, including the drafts for the 
 2nd European regiment, were sent to Jumrood on 
 the 14th, to proceed from thence to the assistance 
 of our troops in the pass, whenever such a step 
 might be necessary. At twelve o'clock the same 
 night, I was ordered off with a couple of 6-pound- 
 
 s3 
 
394 FROM CABUL TO FEROZEPORE. 
 
 ers and a resallah (troop) of Locals, to escort a 
 quantity of ammunition to the troops at Jumrood, 
 who were to take it on to Ali Musjid. There was 
 no moon to light me on my progress, and the faint 
 gleamings of the stars were barely sufficient to 
 guide me over five extremely narrow bridges that 
 had neither parapet nor wall to prevent one from 
 falling over the side. Wlien we reached the sixth 
 and last, the first dawii of morning was visible, 
 and as it gradually brightened into open day, only 
 served to display more vividly the melancholy 
 accident that occurred at this spot. A few yards 
 beyond the bridge, and nearly running at right 
 angles to it, was a deep and narrow cut, which it 
 was necessary to avoid; but, unfortunately, the 
 troopers in the leading gun turned too suddenly 
 to the left, by which means a wheel of the carriage 
 got off the bridge, and the ordnance was imme- 
 diately capsized. A Lascar, who, under cover 
 of night, had seated himself on it, fell at the 
 same moment, and was, sad to relate, underneath, 
 and buried in the water. Every exertion was 
 made to rescue the poor fellow, but in vain ; the 
 ordnance had fallen so awkwardly, and the ditch 
 
PROM CABUL TO FEROZEPORE. 395 
 
 was SO deep, that upwards of ten minutes or a 
 quarter of an hour had elapsed ere he was dragged 
 out. On subsequent examination, by a surgeon, 
 it appeared he had received so many contusions 
 about the head and chest, from the gun tumbling 
 on him, that death must have been almost instan- 
 taneous ; but if such had not been the case, I 
 fear he would have been drowned, as we had no 
 means at our command wherewith to have restored 
 suspended animation. We reached the camp at 
 Jumrood, at nine a. m., and immediately on 
 arrival made the ammunition over to Captain 
 Prole, 37th Native Infantry, who commanded. 
 
 My tent was once more pitched amidst scenery 
 with which I was familiar ; but the landscape, 
 though the same, had been changed in some of its 
 accompaniments. It is true, the Sangas still ex- 
 isted, and were even occupied by the friendly 
 Khyberries, who, to show their zeal for our service, 
 had kept up an incessant fire (whether necessary 
 or not is unknown) during the previous night ; but 
 the immediate camp was altered, and in lieu of 
 Dowranee horsemen and raw Affghan levies, it was 
 filled with British sepoys and European soldiers. 
 
396 FROM CABUL TO FEROZEPORE. 
 
 I had not long retired to rest, when the report of a 
 musket, followed by the sharp whiz of a ball, told 
 that something had occurred ; but I had been so 
 often disturbed by false alarms, when the visita- 
 tions of Sadut Khan were expected, that I had 
 ceased to give them any serious attention ; sOb 
 pricking up my ears for some time to ascertain if 
 anything would follow, and hearing nought, I 
 turned round and was soon asleep. The next 
 morning I was told that the shot was occasioned 
 by a sepoy having incautiously placed his musket 
 too near a fire, by which a spark had ignited the 
 priming, and set it off. A day or two afterwards 
 it seemed as if the circumstance had been preme- 
 ditated, for the man being slightly wounded in 
 the thumb, but perfectly fit for duty, begged 
 he might be admitted into hospital, which would 
 have exempted him from proceeding to Ali Musjid ; 
 and as he was one who had distinguished himself 
 in the former flight, there is reason to believe he 
 was only a malingerer. 
 
 It was at noon, the day after I joined Prole's 
 camp, that the political agent, (Mackeson,) having 
 received no tidings from Dowson, (who commanded 
 
FROxM CABUL TO FEROZEPORE. 397 
 
 at Ali Musjid, consequent on Ferris's departure for 
 Peshawur, again very ill,) and being anxious 
 about his safety, ordered us to move forward ; but 
 a letter from D., in which he stated that he 
 thought he could yet hold out without assistance, 
 having reached us after we had advanced about a 
 mile and a half, we returned to our old position, 
 Mackeson had on this occasion directed the Sikh 
 troops to enter the pass by the main route, to 
 create a diversion ; but in spite of his arguments, 
 and those of Colonel Courtlandt, an officer in the 
 Maharajah's service, who was to have gone with 
 them, they refused to do so, shielding themselves 
 under the excuse, that their orders were to accom- 
 pany the British troops, and that, therefore, 
 whichever way they went, the Khalsas would 
 follow. 
 
 Negotiations were now set on foot with the 
 Khyberries, and it was hoped some amicable ar- 
 rangement would have been entered into, when 
 a communication from Dowson informed us that 
 they had appeared in considerable numbers, and 
 had hoisted a black flag close to the tower above 
 the gorge near Lall Chenie. Mackeson fearing 
 that Colonel Wheeler had, at his requisition, taken 
 
398 FROM CABUL TO FEROZEPORE. 
 
 a more circuitous route by Choora, and would not 
 therefore be in time to succour Dowson, ordered an 
 advance to take place the following morning. Ac- 
 cordingly, at daybreak we commenced our march, 
 my own duty being merely to accompany the troops 
 to the entrance of the pass, (the Shadee Baziar, 
 where there is no gun road,) as it was thought a 
 small **sanga" which commanded the gorge, might 
 be in the Kliyberries' possession, and if so, they 
 were to have been dislodged by a few shrapnels. 
 Before reaching this defile, a sort of council was 
 held to consider whether it would be most advisable 
 to trust the baggage to the care of the Sikh regi- 
 ments, or to a small party of peasants who lived in 
 the neighbourhood of Peshawur, as the British 
 troops were only sufficient to guard the long line 
 of camels that carried the ammunition. So meanly 
 was the courage of the former thought of, that it 
 was unanimo.usly resolved to commit it to the 
 charge of the villagers, and this disposition having 
 been completed, the column again moved on. As 
 we neared the entrance, it became evident that the 
 ** sanga " was unoccupied, and a party under Far- 
 mer having been pushed forward to secure it, I 
 wished them all a successful expedition, and, agree- 
 
FROM CABUL TO FEROZEPORE. 399 
 
 ably to instructions, commenced my return march 
 to Peshawur, accompanied by the resallah of 
 Locals. 
 
 On reaching Futtehgurh, I halted beneath its 
 walls for the purpose of giving the troop horses a 
 feed ; and whilst here, a scene most revolting to 
 human nature occurred within twenty yards of my 
 position, and which I grieve to say I had no means 
 of preventing ; indeed, the tragedy had well-nigh 
 concluded before I was aware of what was going on. 
 It appeared that, the previous evening, a party of 
 Khyberries had made a successful foray, and had 
 carried off a number of camels belonging to one 
 of the regiments that formed the garrison of the 
 fort, and also a couple of Sikh soldiers, who 
 had the care of them. Immediately it became 
 known, a detachment was ordered out in pur- 
 suit; but, meeting with none of the marauders, 
 they had, in their stead, captured two of their 
 enemies' tribe, ^ who were quietly pursuing the 
 " even tenor of their way," and had had nothing 
 whatever to say to the robbery. These unfortu- 
 nates, having been kept in close custody the whole 
 of the night, were next morning, when I halted 
 
400 FROM CABUL TO FEROZEPORE. 
 
 at the fort, removed from the place they had been 
 confined in, and dragged by their ferocious cap- 
 tors to a spot at no great distance from where 
 I was standing. I saw the crowd advance, but 
 imagined the Sikh soldiers who composed it were 
 mutineers on their way to Peshawur, though I was 
 at a loss to guess the meaning of the dried buslies 
 that they were carrying with them, and as for the 
 wretched prisoners, I did not observe them. The 
 Sikhs, on stopping, immediately formed a circle, 
 which was too dense for my vision to penetrate, 
 and not caring to know what was going on I had 
 turned away from the scene. Presently loud 
 vociferations of ** Putthur se maro" *' Stone 
 them to death," caused me to look in this direc- 
 tion again, and then a fierce flame was lapping 
 the air far above the heads of the spectators. 
 Convinced that some cruel work was going on, 
 I accosted a respectably-dressed Sikh, who was 
 standing in a most unconcerned manner near me, 
 and to my question as to what they were doing, 
 he replied with perfect indifference, ** Burning 
 a couple of Khyberries," and then related how the 
 miserable wretches had fallen into their hands. 
 
 4^ 
 
FROM CABUL TO FEROZEPORE. 4QJ 
 
 I expressed my detestation of the cruel punish- 
 ment, when he added, " Why should we not ? the 
 same fate has by this time attended the two 
 Khalsas that were captured last night." Such 
 are the consequences of the bitter hatred that 
 exists between these nations ; but I was after- 
 wards glad to learn that the sufferings of one 
 of the victims, in this instance, had terminated 
 most speedily, for in his agony he had burst his 
 bonds, and madly rushing against his enemies, 
 was instantly felled to the earth by a dozen sabres. 
 The other was not so fortunate, but his torments 
 were less than five minutes in duration, (then, what 
 torments !) as the dried thorns produced a fire of 
 exceeding fierceness, that must have destroyed 
 him almost at once. 
 
 Anxious to leave a place that had been pol- 
 luted with such barbarity, I recommenced my 
 march as soon as I possibly could, but at Koulsir 
 another scene of murder met my gaze in a life- 
 less corpse stretched on the high-road. Two 
 deep gashes across the thighs, which were nearly 
 separated from the body, pointed out the cause of 
 death ; and a finer proportioned man (such an one 
 
402 FROM CABUL TO FEROZEPORE. 
 
 as on fair ground would have beaten forty cow- 
 ardly antagonists) never fell beneath the blows 
 of robbers. He had been stripped of every rag. 
 
 At 4 P.M. I rejoined the camp at Peshawur, 
 and in the course of a day or two we received 
 accounts of Prole's detachment, who had safely 
 convoyed the ammunition to Ali Musjid. For 
 the first three quarters of the distance our troops 
 were allowed to pursue their way unmolested, 
 but on approaching the heights near Lall Chenie, 
 (a favourite spot of the Khyberries,) they were 
 fired on, and met with considerable opposition. 
 The majority of the officers being in blue sur- 
 touts, were very conspicuous amongst the soldiers, 
 and the Afreedies took good care to select them 
 for their marks, and with such true aim, that 
 Prole and Macmullen fell almost at the same 
 moment, both severely wounded in the thigh. 
 A party of sappers, under M'Leod, immediately 
 rushed up the liills, and gallantly drove the enemy 
 from their position, and the convoy eventually 
 arrived at its destination, with the loss of several 
 men killed and wounded. Colonel Wheeler, with 
 the 48th, having been obliged to abandon the 
 
FROM CABUL TO FEROZEPORE. ^^ 
 
 Choora route, on account of the road being im- 
 practicable for guns, reached Ali Musjid the next 
 morning, and the following day, after having 
 strengthened the garrison, marched for Jumrood 
 by the main pass. Negotiations of an amicable 
 nature having been made v^^ith the chiefs, it was 
 thought there would be no opposition. Still, the 
 crowds of Khyberries that occupied the heights, 
 and the known treachery of the tribes, rendered 
 it necessary to move with caution. The Colonel 
 had not advanced very far, when the true inten- 
 tions of the Khyberries were manifest, for they 
 made a desperate attack on the baggage, and 
 such camels as could not be carried off they 
 hamstrung, by which means the loads eventually 
 came into their hands. Colonel Wheeler imme- 
 diately moved up his force, and drove the enemy 
 from their plunder ; but, in consequence of so 
 many camels being mutilated, he was compelled 
 to abandon a large quantity, as there was no 
 conveyance to remove it, and several officers thus 
 lost all they possessed. The 37th and 48th 
 regiments, and the sappers, behaved most gal- 
 lantly. 
 
404 FROM CABUL TO FEROZEPORE. 
 
 Colonel Wheeler's arrival having obviated the 
 necessity of a longer detention at Peshavvur, the 
 Commander-in-chief, with the first column, broke 
 ground on the 23rd, and on the 24th the second 
 column encamped at Pubbee. On the 27th we 
 reached the Indus, and crossed it on the follow- 
 ing day by an excellent bridge of boats. I then 
 visited the fort of Attock, to which, in the month 
 of March, we had been denied admittance; but 
 beyond its exterior there is nothing to interest 
 one. The governor of it at that time was 
 Peshawur Singh, whose behaviour was so in- 
 sulting to Ferris, that it became necessary to 
 make a report of it to Col. "Wade, who, on hear- 
 ing of it, immediately acquainted the Maharajah 
 with the circumstances, and requested that some 
 notice should be taken of his conduct. A reply 
 was, in due course of time, received, and con- 
 veyed the intimation that a fine of 100 rupees 
 had been imposed on the young scoundrel. This 
 was deemed a i^ere subterfuge, and a stringent 
 letter was forthwith penned, hinting that a more 
 suitable punishment was required : the affair 
 ended by Peshawur Singh losing his governor- 
 
FROM CABUL TO FEROZEPORE. 405 
 
 ship as a requital for the brief amusement his 
 pranks had afforded him. On the 1st of December 
 we halted at Wah, and I thus had an opportunity 
 of seeing its much-vaunted beauties, which con- 
 sists of a dilapidated country-seat of Jehanguire's, 
 imbedded in what had once been a very pretty 
 garden, but now a perfect wilderness. A large 
 and beautifully clear sheet of water faces the ruin, 
 and is tepid, notwithstanding which a few fishes 
 were to be seen playing about, and did not appear 
 to find it too hot to hold them. I can easily 
 conceive this spot to have formed at one period 
 a most delightful retreat; but the house is now 
 in so ruined a condition, and the gardens so 
 overgrown with jungle, that little pleasure is 
 produced by contemplating them in their present 
 state. 
 
 On the 3rd we reached Rawul Pindee, and 
 halted there on the 4th ; when, under cover of 
 night, an Akalli inflicted with a sabre a severe cut 
 on a private of the Lancers, who had charge of 
 the regimental pack of hounds: it is supposed in 
 revenge for the dogs having the day before seized 
 upon the carcass of a dead bullock. A horse- 
 
406 FROM CABUL TO FEROZEPORE. 
 
 artilleryman was also wounded in the arm, having 
 been attacked whilst playing his pranks in the 
 city ; and so he, in a measure, only reaped his 
 desert. The 11th saw us again before Rhotas, 
 and on the 12th we marched to the town of Jhelum, 
 situated on the river of the same name. Here we 
 heard of the sad and melancholy accident that had 
 occurred the previous day, when the Lancers were 
 fording the stream, by which Captain Hilton, a 
 corporal, and nine privates met with a watery 
 grave. The ford, being somewhat in form to the 
 letter S, was difficult to follow ; and in some way 
 or another a squadron gradually shelved off into 
 deep water, on which the sad catastrophe ensued. 
 Our column crossed the next day by boats, the 
 horses being taken over the ford by their grooms, or 
 such soldiers as could swim ; and it being properly 
 defined, no loss was sustained. On the 15th we were 
 at Kohar, near to which we had been ferried over 
 the Jhelum when going to Peshawur ; and shortly 
 after arriving there our gunners took it into their 
 heads to administer a trifle of Lynch law. For 
 some days previous they had been thoroughly dis- 
 gusted with the bad quality of the bread issued to 
 
FROM CABUL TO FEROZEPORE. ^Q'^ 
 
 them by tlie baker, (wbo had been often repri- 
 manded for it, and had it returned on* his hands by 
 those in authority,) and on the morning in ques- 
 tion having learned that none had been provided 
 for them, but that chupatties, or unleavened cakes, 
 were to be distributed instead of the loaves, they 
 resolved to be revenged on him. Unfortunately 
 this intimation had been conveyed to them just as 
 the man of dough was ambling into camp upon 
 a wretched pony ; and no sooner did they espy the 
 object of their wrath, than, without further ado, 
 they dragged him from his saddle, tied a rope 
 round his neck, and ran him up to the branch of a 
 tree. Here the unfortunate, but rascally offender, 
 was allowed to remain a few seconds before he was 
 lowered down, and (not willing to carry their frolic 
 too far) before the breath had quite oozed out of 
 his body. Of course such conduct on the part of 
 the men was not allowed to pass unnoticed, and 
 a parade was ordered as soon as the circumstance 
 became known. The half-hanged baker was then 
 taken down the line, and having identified two in- 
 dividuals as the ring-leaders on the occasion, they 
 were ordered into confinement. Sir John Keane 
 
408 FROM CABUL TO FEROZEPORE. 
 
 subsequently directed a court of inquiry to assem- 
 ble, but it elicited nothing, as the two supposed 
 rogues satisfactorily proved an alihiy and were in 
 consequence released. The lesson, however, was 
 not lost upon the baker, and the soldiers hence- 
 forth had the satisfaction of receiving a better 
 description of bread. 
 
 From Dingee, instead of proceeding by the 
 large towns of Gujrat and Wuzeerabad, we pursued 
 a more southerly route, as the Sikh rulers had 
 expressed a wish that the troops should not pass 
 through Lahore. At the city of Rainuggur we 
 crossed the Chenab, not above a quarter of the 
 breadth it was at Wuzeerabad, in March, and 
 passing over a rich and fertile country, forded the 
 
 Ravee on Christmas-day, when Major S and 
 
 I, to keep up old customs, indulged in a plum- 
 pudding that had been boiled in a tea-cup! A day 
 or two previous Sir J. Keane, having received an 
 invitation from the court of Lahore, marched for 
 that city, taking with him, in addition to the 
 Lancers, Grant's troop of horse-artillery as an 
 escort. I had the option of going with them, but 
 as I had seen the capital of the Punjab, I preferred 
 
FROM CABUL TO FEROZEPORE. 4^)9 
 
 remaining with the second column. On the 28th 
 we arrived at Kussoor, a large and ancient town, 
 that in former days must have covered an extensive 
 area, as its ruins are interminable; and, on the 
 29th, crossed the Sutledge, and once more trod the 
 soil of our own provinces. The delight which 
 every one, from the General to the lowest camp- 
 follower, experienced on arriving in Hindoostan, 
 was manifest in their countenances ; and the con- 
 gratulations offered and received on the occasion, 
 were given and accepted with the most hearty 
 good-will. The next day there was a halt, to 
 allow the baggage, &c., to be ferried over ; and , 
 on the 31st of December, 1839, we closed the 
 year by marching to Ferozepore, the rear of the 
 army of the Indus (in our column, at least,) being 
 brought up by about two dozen sepoys of the 20th 
 N. I., (under the command of an officer of the 48th,) 
 worn out and ragged, and preceded by a single 
 fife and drum, playing the Grenadier's March. It 
 appeared almost a libel on the grand army that, 
 little more than a year before, had assembled on 
 these very plains, and astonished the **Lion of the 
 Punjab " by its magnificence and strength ; but 
 
 T 
 
410 FROM CABUL TO FEROZEPORE. 
 
 which, from the numbers of regiments that had 
 been left in Affghanistan, and the casualties that 
 had occurred, was now reduced to two or three 
 regiments and detachments, the men with their 
 clothes worn out and patched, and the horses with 
 little to boast of but skin and bone. On the 1st 
 of January, 1840, the Commander-in-chief re- 
 turned from Lahore, and on the following day 
 having issued a veiy flattering order, the ." army 
 of the Indus" ceased to exist. In the course of a 
 few months we received intelligence of the honours 
 that had been conferred on various officers engaged 
 in Affghanistan; and amongst the number were 
 three who had belonged to our mission. Colonel 
 Wade was knighted, created aC. B., and promoted 
 to the rank of Lieutenant-colonel in the East Indies, 
 besides having the Royal permission to receive and 
 wear the first class of the Douranie order; and 
 Dr. Lord and Lieutenant Mackeson were rewarded 
 with the third class of the same order. 
 
 FINIS. 
 
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