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INGOLOR, 
 
 EDITED BY 
 
 R. HOOPER PEARSON 
 MANAGING EDITOR 
 OF THE GARDENERS' 
 CHRONICLE 
 
PLATE I (Frontispiece} 
 
 FIFTEEN VARIETIES SHOWING VARIATION IN 
 COLOUR AND FORM 
 
(By Hovae&l. (Brig 
 
 ^_X <^_/ <~x 
 
 NEW YORK 
 FREDERICK A. STOKES CO. 
 
PREFACE 
 
 ONE of the most remarkable facts in relation to present-day 
 flower gardening is the development and popularisation of 
 the Sweet Pea, which has gained for itself a position never 
 previously held by a purely annual species. The claim of 
 the Sweet Pea, therefore, for representation in the present 
 series could not be overlooked. 
 
 The author, Mr. Horace J. Wright, is well known as the 
 first secretary of the National Sweet Pea Society, and later as 
 Chairman of the General and Executive Committees of that 
 body. He has been connected most intimately with all the 
 circumstances which have attended the development of the 
 flower ; therefore his experience is exceptional. It is this very 
 experience which induced Mr. Wright to ask Mr. Thomas 
 Stevenson to contribute a chapter on the special culture 
 needed for exhibition flowers, for Mr. Wright's management 
 of the N.S.P.S. exhibitions has impressed him with the value, 
 in exhibition culture, of small details to which other culti- 
 vators need pay but little regard. Mr. Stevenson's extra- 
 ordinary successes at the competitive exhibitions should 
 
 vii 
 
 M363128 
 
viii PREFACE 
 
 make his advice invaluable to those who desire to emulate 
 his example. 
 
 Acknowledgments are made to Messrs. Dobbie and Co., 
 who very kindly provided the flowers photographed in the 
 plates. All the varieties are shown very much reduced in 
 size. 
 
 THE EDITOR. 
 
CONTENTS 
 
 PAGE 
 
 INTRODUCTION . i 
 
 CHAP. 
 
 I. HISTORICAL NOTES .... ( . . . 4 
 
 II. THE THREE GREAT GROUPS ... . . n 
 
 III. MAKING NEW VARIETIES . >''' . . 19 
 
 IV. GENERAL CULTURE 22 
 
 V, SEED SOWING 39 
 
 VI. CULTURE UNDER GLASS 61 
 
 VII. SWEET PEAS FOR THE GARDEN .... 64 
 
 VIII. SWEET PEAS FOR DECORATIONS ... 66 
 
 IX. CUPID AND BUSH VARIETIES . . * .68 
 
 X. ENEMIES AND DISEASES . . . '>'/ . .. 70 
 
 XI. FIFTY STANDARD VARIETIES . . 80 
 
 XII. IN THE LIBRARY . . 86 
 
 XIII. CULTURE OF SWEET PEAS FOR EXHIBITION . . 89 
 
 XIV. A WORD OR TWO TO JUDGES . . . - 113 
 
LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS 
 
 PLATE 
 
 I. FIFTEEN VARIETIES SHOWING VARIATION IN 
 
 COLOUR AND FORM .... Frontispiece 
 
 PAGE 
 
 II. HELEN LEWIS . . . . ; . . . .13 
 
 III. EVELYN HEMUS . . . "}'-..' * 2 5 
 
 IV. QUEEN ALEXANDRA . 41 
 
 V. MRS. HUGH DICKSON 57 
 
 VI. CLARA CURTIS 73 
 
 VII. SUNPROOF CRIMSON . ... 91 
 VIII. MASTERPIECE 103 
 
SWEET PEAS 
 
 INTRODUCTION 
 
 THE Sweet Pea is the first garden flower of the present 
 day. It is found abundantly in the unpretentious garden 
 of the cottager, the less simple garden of the amateur, the 
 smart garden of villadom, and the elaborate and extensive 
 gardens of the opulent and noble. In the restricted areas 
 called town gardens the Sweet Pea has its place, just as 
 it has in the more congenial gardens attached to rural 
 homes. The plants will not flourish with the same ex- 
 cellence in the enclosed garden as in those which get the 
 benefit of pure country air, but they will nevertheless yield 
 a generous return in any circumstances for the labour 
 and love bestowed upon them. 
 
 Whether the particular object of culture is to decorate 
 the garden, provide flowers for brightening and giving 
 fragrance to the house, or entirely for the purpose of getting 
 flowers for the exhibitions, the Sweet Pea will rarely, if 
 ever, disappoint the cultivator. Wherever the atmosphere 
 is moderately free from impurities, the plants will thrive 
 
2 PRESENT-DAY GARDENING 
 
 well, but in gardens in the middle of London, and even 
 in the congested suburbs, the Sweet Pea is not so happy. 
 In such situations the plant runs up to the light and seeks 
 in vain for the pure air that it needs. It is then, by com- 
 parison with the wonderful freedom of growth common 
 in the country, only a moderate success, but the few 
 medium-quality flowers it produces are probably more truly 
 admired than their brighter sisters from the country, where 
 the sight of a perfect flower is not rare. 
 
 It may be claimed for the Sweet Pea that it will yield 
 far more blossoms than any other plant which can be grown 
 in the open gardens of this country ; that, in comparison 
 with others, it is wonderfully cheap for a single penny one 
 can procure a packet of seeds which will yield anything 
 from 50 to 100 plants, all of which will develop several 
 scores of splendid flowers ; that the demands it makes upon 
 the time and patience of the cultivator are not great ; that 
 there is no single species that provides a wider range of 
 colouration, or flowers so valuable for the adornment of 
 the garden over such a protracted period. 
 
 The Sweet Pea thrives in most parts of the British 
 Empire. In New Zealand, Australia, Canada, British 
 Columbia, and South Africa special exhibitions are held 
 in its honour. 
 
 Notwithstanding the fact that Sweet Peas are, broadly 
 speaking, cultivated in all gardens, and thousands are 
 
INTRODUCTION 3 
 
 raised every year by market growers, blooms sent to the 
 markets always meet with an appreciative demand and 
 remunerative sale. It is, of course, impossible to even 
 approximately estimate how many Sweet Pea seeds are 
 annually distributed in this country, but facts that are well 
 within our personal knowledge go far to prove that the 
 quantity is probably in excess of 40 tons. These find their 
 way to the soil, either in the penny packets of the smaller 
 amateur or in the hundredweight lots such as are purchased 
 by the market growers who made a specialty of supplying 
 the markets with plants in pots in the early summer, and 
 with flowers later. Estimating an average pound of Sweet 
 Peas to contain 5000 seeds, it is not a difficult problem in 
 multiplication to ascertain that this represents 11,200,000 
 to the ton, or 448,000,000 of Sweet Pea seeds distributed 
 every year by British growers alone. Those who attempt 
 to realise what such a number really means will find it 
 impossible, but the facts are that the actual total is over, 
 rather than under, what has been stated. And still we are 
 determined to have the Sweet Pea more extensively grown 
 even than it is in present-day gardening ! 
 
CHAPTER I 
 
 HISTORICAL NOTES 
 
 IT is not intended to place on record here an exhaustive 
 history of the Sweet Pea. Instead of doing this, the salient 
 facts alone will be brought into view, and we shall then 
 gradually come to see that although the plant has been 
 grown in this country for upwards of two hundred years, 
 to all intents and purposes its history, as far as the practical 
 man is concerned, has been made in the last half-century. 
 However, let us to the start. 
 
 In the year 1699 there dwelt in Sicily a monk named 
 Cupani. In his spare time this holy man studied the flora 
 of that beautiful island, and this flora included the Sweet 
 Pea. Not that he gave it that name. When he sent seeds 
 to his English correspondent, Dr. Uvedale, in those days 
 a schoolmaster at Enfield in Middlesex, the unwieldy 
 cognomen or ought one to say descriptive title ? was 
 Lathyrus distoplatyphyllos, hirsutis, mollis, magno et pera- 
 maeno, flore odoratissimo, purpureo. If we were required 
 to call the Sweet Pea by this name in these days of hurry 
 and scurry the flower would lose half its charm. 
 
 4 
 
EARLY HISTORY 5 
 
 Although these are the circumstances which attended 
 the introduction of the Sweet Pea into Great Britain, the 
 plant had already been referred to in botanical works, for 
 Mr. S. B. Dicks, who searched wide and long to compile 
 the early history of the flower for the Bicentenary Cele- 
 bration Festival, found it mentioned in the Histories Plan- 
 tarum of Johannes Bauhinus, dated 1650-51. Robert 
 Morrison of London mentions a Lathyrus latifolius annuls 
 in 1669, but this differed from the fragrant Sicilian flower. 
 John Ray, also of London, alluded to it as Lathyrus major 
 e Sicilies in his Historia Plantarum, published between 1686 
 and 1704. In addition to the seeds which Cupani forwarded 
 to Dr. Uvedale, he sent some to Casper Commelin, and what 
 was, apparently, the first illustration, was prepared from 
 flowers grown from these seeds. This picture appeared 
 in the Horti-Medici Amstelodamensis. Subsequently Joannis 
 Burmannis, in 1737, described Lathyrus Zeylanicus, and 
 spoke of it as differing only from the Lathyrus of 
 Cupani in the variety of the flower. Further experience 
 proved that they were one and the same species, and 
 from that species all modern Sweet Peas have been 
 derived. 
 
 Even in those days the flower was found to be variable, 
 and it is possible that if the florists had not purposely 
 selected and fixed the old-fashioned varieties with smooth 
 and hooded standards, we should never have worried about 
 
6 PRESENT-DAY GARDENING 
 
 the variability of the Spencer type, but rather have accepted 
 it as a matter of course. 
 
 It is abundantly clear that British growers soon com- 
 menced to take advantage of the variation in the flowers, and 
 seeds of distinct varieties were offered as early as 1793 by 
 Mason of Fleet Street, who catalogued and described black, 
 purple, scarlet, and white varieties, and Painted Lady. In 
 these days we believe everything that conies from Fleet 
 Street, but in connection with Sweet Peas there is ample 
 grounds for wondering whether Mason spoke the truth 
 about his scarlets and his blacks. We have not got any 
 black flowers at the present day, and opinions differ as 
 to whether we ought to claim that we have pure scarlet 
 flowers. That is, however, neither here nor there, and it 
 does not alter the fact that evolution had commenced. A 
 black-purple was referred to in 1800, and thirty-seven years 
 later history records a striped flower, and it was with 
 these that James Carter of Holborn, the founder of the 
 present house of James Carter & Co., commenced. From 
 this source was introduced a little later a "yellow" flower, 
 but it may safely be assumed that to find the yellow in 
 it demanded as much imagination as it does to find the 
 yellow in present-day varieties. 
 
 In 1860 the first edged variety appeared ; it was called 
 Blue Hybrid, was brought to light by Major Trevor Clarke, 
 and was said to be the result of a cross between a white 
 
HENRY ECKFORD'S WORK 7 
 
 variety and Lathyrus inagellanicus, but it never bore evi- 
 dence of hybridity. The variety received the honour of a 
 first-class certificate from the Royal Horticultural Society 
 as recently as 1883. This was not the first Sweet Pea that 
 was recognised by the R.H.S., as its Floral Committee had 
 already given a similar award to Scarlet Invincible eighteen 
 years previously. At about this time, between 1860 and 
 1870, many new Sweet Peas were introduced, and cultivators 
 did not concentrate their energies on colour alone, but were 
 actively endeavouring to improve the size, substance, and 
 form of the flower. Continental as well as home raisers 
 were at work, and the firm of Carter was always promi- 
 nently to the fore. 
 
 After the year 1880 varieties followed each other in 
 quick succession, and the interest in the flower steadily 
 increased. Noble, Cooper & Bolton, the predecessors of the 
 present firm of Cooper, Taber & Co., Ltd. ; Cattell, Wester- 
 ham ; Sutton & Sons, Reading ; Hurst & Son, Houndsditch ; 
 and Thomas Laxton, Bedford, all played successful hands. 
 But their results paled into insignificance later, owing to Eck- 
 ford's introductions. Henry Eckford commenced in 1870 at 
 Sandywell, Gloucester, and henceforth devoted his life to 
 the development of the Sweet Pea. His success was so re- 
 markable that he raised the Sweet Pea from the position of 
 an ordinary flower to one of primary importance. Eckford 
 undoubtedly made the Sweet Pea a general favourite, and 
 
8 PRESENT-DAY GARDENING 
 
 the Sweet Pea made the name of Eckford as music to the 
 ears of all who love flowers. 
 
 His first great success was Bronze Prince, but he had 
 not then learned all there was to be learned in regard 
 to fixity. The variety was so inconstant that it failed to 
 retain its popularity for so long a period as it should have 
 done, for in all other respects the flower was excellent. 
 Once on the high road, Henry Eckford never left it. Year 
 after year fresh novelties were obtained, the earliest ones 
 being distributed by others and the later ones by himself ; 
 for he left private service at length and established himself 
 in business at Wem in Shropshire. Each novelty had some 
 marked superiority over its predecessors, and so careful 
 was the great florist that, after one or two early mistakes, 
 he distributed only such varieties as were perfectly fixed. 
 
 Slight variations occurred in the named varieties from 
 time to time, but they were only such as were to be ex- 
 pected in a flower exclusively propagated from seeds, and 
 produced by cross-fertilisation based on no clearly defined 
 lines. Now the raisers have Mendel's laws of inheritance 
 to guide them, and they should be able to produce some 
 wonderful results ; but whatever is done, the name of Henry 
 Eckford will stand for ever above all other names in con- 
 nection with the development of the Sweet Pea. The Eck- 
 fordian varieties showed advancement in substance, size, 
 form, fragrance, and colour, for it seemed to be a point of 
 
"COUNTESS SPENCER" 9 
 
 honour that no one attribute should be exploited at the 
 expense of others. 
 
 With the institution of the National Sweet Pea Society 
 in 1900 many other raisers came into prominence, and 
 they have done excellent work since that time. Novelties 
 succeeded novelties in unbroken sequence, and while some 
 were given names to which they were not entitled, being 
 insufficiently distinct from others, or lacking good qualities 
 themselves, the majority merited the popularity to which 
 they attained. 
 
 Eckford and his contemporaries achieved wonders, but 
 all their varieties had smooth or hooded standards, there- 
 fore when Silas Cole, gardener to Earl Spencer, Althorp 
 Park, Northampton, showed a shell-pink variety with waved 
 standards and wings, at an exhibition at the Royal Aquarium 
 in 1901, the Sweet Pea world simply lost its head in amaze- 
 ment. Here, indeed, was something different from, and 
 infinitely more beautiful than, anything that had yet been 
 seen. Silas Cole was worried nearly out of his life for 
 seeds, but eventually the stock passed into the hands of 
 Robert Sydenham, who, in response to persistent agitation, 
 was induced to distribute the variety before it had been 
 properly fixed, and it was that error which has led us 
 into so many pitfalls since. Had Countess Spencer been 
 properly fixed prior to distribution, it is well within the 
 bounds of possibility that the trueness that had come, 
 
io PRESENT-DAY GARDENING 
 
 owing to the efforts of Henry Eckford, to be expected from 
 every Sweet Pea, would have continued. This was not to 
 be, however, and the consequent variability has been the 
 cause of many heartburnings and many regrets. We yearn 
 now for the dawn of that bright day when cultivators shall 
 know that when they sow seeds there will be some certainty 
 as to the kind of flower they will produce, not in the few 
 varieties, as is the case at present, but in the many, as was 
 the case in former years. 
 
 Much as we should like to do so, we find it impossible 
 to name all those who have done good work in -developing 
 the modern Sweet Pea. Let them continue their praise- 
 worthy efforts, for the possibilities of the flower are not 
 yet exhausted. Another epoch will presently open with as 
 distinct a break from the Spencers as this type was from 
 the older forms, and its fresh charms will make it heartily 
 welcome. 
 
CHAPTER II 
 THE THREE GREAT GROUPS 
 
 IT will be of interest to call special attention to the three 
 groups into which the varieties of Sweet Peas may be said 
 to be divided, and to relate the main points of difference 
 between them. The original Sweet Pea was a bicolor 
 flower, and it usually carried two blooms on each stem ; 
 the standards were generally erect and flat, the wings 
 smooth, and the segments of the keel were invariably closed, 
 thus rendering cross-fertilisation by natural agencies a 
 remote possibility. Later, in the same group, there came 
 varieties that differed only in colour, while still others 
 varied in the shape of the standard. There were many 
 that hooded their standards, such, to mention a typical 
 example, as the supremely beautiful Lady Grisell Hamilton. 
 Another variatipn took the form of throwing back the 
 margins of the standards, but this rather detracted from the 
 attractiveness of the flower, with the result that compara- 
 tively few of these attained to any marked degree of popu- 
 larity. A further difference was seen in the fact that the 
 standards of many varieties had a notch at the top, and the 
 
12 PRESENT-DAY GARDENING 
 
 smoothness of the unbroken roundness was destroyed. 
 This defect occurs even in recent varieties, and it detracts 
 from their charm. 
 
 Notwithstanding these differences, it is safe to describe 
 the many varieties as all belonging to the earliest or smooth- 
 standard group, now commonly called, for the sake of dis- 
 tinction, the grandiflora division. The hooding and the 
 reflexing were merely indications of some inherent weak- 
 ness of the variety, and could by no means be claimed to 
 constitute sufficient difference to justify the creation of a 
 distinguishing section. 
 
 These prevailed until Countess Spencer was first shown 
 only nine years ago. In this break away from the normal, 
 not only was the form of the flower totally distinct, but 
 there was a structural variation of immense importance, 
 since it was well within the bounds of possibility that it 
 would affect the constancy of the variety or varieties. 
 The difference of form was all for the better. The rigid 
 outline of the smooth standard was broken, and we had a 
 bloom in which the standards were waved in an elegant 
 and attractive manner and the wings showed the same 
 exquisite characteristic, and the flower became popular 
 even before it was generally known, so enthusiastic were 
 contemporary writers in their comments and praises. 
 
 In one respect this group shows some inferiority in 
 comparison with the old, smooth flowers. When the 
 

 PLATE II 
 HELEN LEWIS 
 
THE SPENCER GROUP 15 
 
 
 
 plants are cultivated on over-rich land, this graceful wavi- 
 ness, which all admire, becomes an ungainly floppiness 
 that completely spoils the bloom ; an overfed, smooth 
 flower might appear slightly coarse, but it never assumed 
 such an aspect as the waved standards in similar circum- 
 stances. The remedy is, of course, obvious. Do not so 
 unintelligently manure the soil, and subsequently feed the 
 plants, that they will produce flowers that have these de- 
 fects, which are sufficient to ruin the plants as well when 
 grown for garden embellishment as for exhibition. 
 
 Turning now to the structural difference, it has been 
 said already that when the keel closely enclosed the essen- 
 tial organs, this circumstance reduced to a minimum the 
 probabilities of natural agencies stepping in and causing 
 cross-fertilisation. In the Spencer group, to which atten- 
 tion is now being directed, the segments of the keel expand 
 and the organs protrude. This characteristic constitutes 
 the distinguishing feature of the varieties as compared with 
 those of the Unwin type, to which reference will be made 
 in due course. 
 
 Good judges differ as to whether this peculiarity has or 
 has not affected the stability of varieties. Certain it is that, 
 despite all the efforts which have been made, perfect fixa- 
 tion of these varieties is still a more or less doubtful quan- 
 tity. On the contrary, there are some varieties which are 
 absolutely of Spencer form that have scarcely varied in 
 
16 PRESENT-DAY GARDENING 
 
 the smallest degree since they were first distributed. The 
 little differences that have occurred have been on all-fours 
 with those that characterised the smooth-standard group 
 half a century or more ago. There are those who affirm 
 that the fact of the seed of Countess Spencer having been 
 originally grown in bulk in California was the whole and 
 sole cause of its unreliability ; but there cannot be much 
 in this argument, for other varieties which have also been 
 grown there are true to all intents and purposes. 
 
 It is on record that Henry Eckford devoted several years 
 to the fixation of smooth-standard varieties before introduc- 
 ing them, and that Messrs. Sutton had their variety Butterfly 
 in the nurseries for many seasons before they put it into 
 commerce, simply because they could not get it to remain 
 constant ; and other raisers have had similar experience. 
 Thus the conclusion is almost forced upon us that had 
 Countess Spencer been held back for a period it would 
 have saved all the trouble. Countess Spencer was a seminal 
 variation from Prima Donna. 
 
 Some varieties that were notoriously bad when first 
 sent out have been enormously improved, but there are 
 others, and Audrey Crier may be mentioned as a well- 
 known example, which it appears impossible to persuade 
 to come true, or even to improve. Although this variety 
 has been selected and re-selected year after year, it is as 
 unreliable as ever, and must never be expected to yield 
 
THE UNWIN GROUP 17 
 
 more than 10 per cent, true, whereas many sorts will give 
 anything from 90 to 100 per cent, of trueness. 
 
 The third group is composed of the Unwin varieties. 
 The first appeared in the same year as Countess Spencer, 
 and was selected by Mr. Unwin. The difference between 
 it and the smooth-standard section is that the standard and 
 wings are almost as much, and quite as gracefully, waved 
 as those of the more highly esteemed Spencers. The group 
 differs from the Spencers in that it has the keel quite closed, 
 as in the old form. The group therefore comes midway 
 between the other two groups, and had it been placed on 
 the market before Countess Spencer and come as true then 
 as it does now, it would have enjoyed the greater popularity ; 
 but it was held back for fixation, and when this quality was 
 secured the supremacy of the Spencer type was assured. 
 The typical variety is Gladys Unwin, which in its day was 
 more extensively grown for cut flowers for market than any. 
 other variety had ever been, and the British market grower 
 knows a good thing and will not grow a bad one. 
 
 There are many growers of Sweet Peas who would 
 willingly forgo a little as regards colour, and perhaps 
 waviness, provided that they could feel assured of fixation, 
 and to these cultivators the Unwin group can be strongly re- 
 commended. It must be understood, in relation to this, that 
 the trueness of Unwin, as well as other varieties in the two 
 
 waved groups, is not by any means guaranteed, but simply 
 
 B 
 
i8 PRESENT-DAY GARDENING 
 
 that the chances are substantially in favour of securing 
 a higher percentage of trueness, taking one variety with 
 another, not allowing the insufficient evidence or experi- 
 ence of one season positively to decide the matter with 
 the Unwin group, any more than with the true Spencers. 
 
 An effort is being made in some directions to separate 
 these two groups for purposes of exhibition, but the expe- 
 diency of doing so is much open to question, and it would 
 certainly place a serious responsibility upon the judges, 
 since it would involve them in the necessity of closely 
 examining every flower; for, apart from the difference 
 of the keel, there is no other distinguishing feature which 
 can be taken as a guide. An exceptionally intimate know- 
 ledge of the varieties would be helpful, but there are few 
 who would lay claim to being absolutely certain of any 
 variety other than the specialist growers who work for the 
 principal raisers. 
 
CHAPTER III 
 MAKING NEW VARIETIES 
 
 WE have advanced so far in the development of Sweet 
 Peas, that it may be thought there is now no ideal to 
 inspire future raisers. This is far from being the truth. 
 As a purely elementary illustration, it may be pointed 
 out that we have not yet got the true yellow or the true 
 blue flower. Nothing short of the hue of Coreopsis grandi- 
 flora will satisfy the world in regard to the former ; while 
 as for the latter, we have in our mind the blue of Salvia 
 patens. There must be no hint that there is nothing left 
 to do, so long as we have not these delightful colours ! 
 
 When, then, shall we have them ? Here is a question 
 which is easy enough to propound, but impossible to 
 answer. The Sweet-Pea-loving public may accept it as 
 an indisputable fact that modern raisers will spare neither 
 trouble, skill, patience, nor money to achieve these objects, 
 for they know perfectly well that those who are successful 
 will not only reap a rich financial reward, but that their 
 name or names will go down to posterity with that of 
 
 Eckford in the cult of the Queen of Annuals. 
 
 19 
 
20 PRESENT-DAY GARDENING 
 
 Systematic work on clearly defined lines, and with 
 definite objects in view, is constantly proceeding, as well 
 in the ranks of amateurs as among professional growers, 
 and there is no apparent reason why any one of the former 
 class should not achieve as good results as a member of the 
 latter class, provided that the same care, thought, intelligence, 
 and complete understanding of the task before them are 
 brought to bear upon their work. The professional culti- 
 vator has perhaps greater incentives, and in many instances 
 better facilities, for conducting the work, but the amateur 
 who determines that he will do his best to deserve success 
 will have no cause to regret his labours. Let him take 
 courage from the success of Silas Cole with Countess Spencer 
 and Earl Spencer, of Alexander Malcolm with Edrom 
 Beauty and Masterpiece, of H. A. Perkin with the peerless 
 Nancy Perkin, of but the multiplication of names will 
 not add strength to our case ; sufficient have been specified 
 to prove that the amateur raiser is already a power in the 
 land, and will become a greater one in the future. 
 
 Before leaving the question of raising new varieties, it 
 should be pointed out that the unfortunate lack of fixity 
 caused much thought to be given to the whole question 
 of cross-fertilisation. Efforts have been made to ascertain 
 whether the Mendelian laws of inheritance apply to the 
 flower. Mendel proved to the point of demonstration that 
 plants have characteristics absolutely defined and unalter- 
 
MENDEL'S LAW 21 
 
 able. He knew that if he crossed certain plants he would 
 reap certain results, and that in the second generation the 
 seedlings would show a splitting up into varieties, and he 
 was able to state beforehand what proportion these variations 
 would have to each other, and to affirm that some types 
 known as "recessives" would be constant. As far as the 
 Mendelian laws in relation to Sweet Peas are concerned, 
 Alexander Malcolm claims to have proved that they do 
 apply. He is a most painstaking, skilful, and experienced 
 worker, and the results which he has achieved have more 
 than satisfied him that he is proceeding on the right lines. 
 
 The theory is elaborate and it demands thorough study. 
 Those who would enter upon it should consult Professor 
 Bateson's Mendel's Principles of Heredity, which is published 
 by the Cambridge University Press ; or the same author's 
 Methods and Scope of Genetics. Mr. Cuthbertson contributed 
 some information on the subject in the Sweet Pea Annual 
 for 1909 ; and an excellent article, with a coloured plate, 
 appeared in the Gardeners' Chronicle for July 24, 1909. 
 
CHAPTER IV 
 GENERAL CULTURE 
 
 IT has been said that the Sweet Pea can be grown in any 
 garden in the British Isles ; but one would not go as far as 
 to assert that the success achieved will be equally good in 
 all circumstances and conditions. Not only will the natural 
 soil and situation have an influence on the results, but 
 the character of the atmosphere must also be taken into 
 consideration ; and, beyond all these things, there is the 
 individuality of the cultivator. Nevertheless, the plant will 
 thrive and blossom fairly well even in the most untoward 
 surroundings, as has been proved to demonstration in some 
 of the most confined gardens of London and other crowded 
 cities. It is, however, imperative that the correct methods 
 of procedure shall be adopted from the start, and fortu- 
 nately these do not entail either serious expense or diffi- 
 cult labour, though the initial operations must necessarily 
 be rather heavy. 
 
 Let us glance briefly at what may be termed the 
 essentials to success, assuming that the plants are being 
 cultivated for the adornment of the garden and for the 
 
ESSENTIALS TO SUCCESS 23 
 
 production of numbers of flowers for the decoration of 
 the home. With the management of plants for exhibi- 
 tion blooms we have nothing here to do, since that phase 
 of Sweet Pea culture is most admirably treated upon by 
 Mr. Thomas Stevenson, head gardener at Woburn Place. 
 
 The most important factor of all is soil, and no matter 
 what its nature may be, it is essential that it should be 
 brought into perfect physical condition by thorough tilling ; 
 it must also contain an abundant supply of readily available 
 food. The seeds must be sown thinly, and any thinning 
 that may be required must be done early. Supports must 
 be afforded the plants before they attain to a height of 
 four inches. Ample protection must be given them against 
 mice during the time the seeds are lying in the soil prior to 
 germination ; the seedlings, as they push their way through 
 the surface and until they are at least three inches high, 
 must be closely safeguarded against slugs ; and efficient 
 provision made to keep birds of all kinds from the young 
 plants, or they will pinch them back to a degree that will 
 cause the cultivator serious worry and result in more or 
 less unsatisfactory results, for the simple reason that no 
 strong stems will get away. After the plants have progressed 
 to such an extent that the permanent stakes or supports 
 are in position and buds are commencing to form, the 
 surface soil must be persistently cultivated with the hoe ; 
 in addition, it will be (desirable, and in some instances 
 
24 PRESENT-DAY GARDENING 
 
 necessary, to provide mulchings of good manure, while 
 water and liquid manure will certainly have to be afforded 
 according to the state of the weather and soil. All this 
 may sound a little formidable, but as a matter of fact it 
 is perfectly easy if a proper start is made and good manage- 
 ment is practised at all stages. 
 
 SOIL PREPARATION 
 
 Emphasis has already been laid upon the paramount 
 importance of working the soil. It is not only possible, but 
 easy, to grow good Sweet Peas without the addition of any 
 manure to the soil, provided that a fresh position be chosen 
 each season and that the site was generously manured 
 for the preceding crop. In such cases the ground will 
 contain a quantity of nutrient matter which mechanical 
 working will render available to the plants. On the con- 
 trary, injudicious manuring would not, in the absence of 
 soil working, bring about good results. Thus it is seen 
 that soil working stands first in importance. Three methods 
 are open for adoption according to circumstances (i) dig- 
 ging ; (2) bastard, false, or mock trenching ; and (3) full 
 or true trenching. It may be said here that the third 
 system should never be attempted unless the cultivator 
 is absolutely certain that the subsoil, which will in this 
 case be brought up to form the surface soil, is perfectly 
 
PLATE III 
 EVELYN HEMUS 
 
SOIL PREPARATION 27 
 
 sweet through previous aeration following upon deep 
 culture. 
 
 Digging, a process by which a depth of 12 inches 
 of soil is turned over, is good as far as it goes, but those 
 whose land is so shallow that they cannot secure a deeper 
 rooting medium than this must not expect to achieve the 
 same results as others who have soil 2 or 3 feet deep. 
 However, a 1 2-inch depth of thoroughly friable, sweet, 
 fertile ground will grow some grand plants ; and if the 
 flowers are not all fours or fives upon a stem, and the 
 stems are not all 20 inches in length What matters 
 it ? Judicious watering and feeding will encourage the 
 successive production of blooms, provided that the flowers 
 are picked from the plants either just before, or when they 
 are at, perfection. In the process of moving the soil, more 
 particularly if the work has to be done in the spring when 
 the grower cannot have the invaluable assistance of the 
 weather as a disintegrator, small bites should be taken 
 with the spade or fork, and the tool should be driven 
 down to its utmost depth. This will go far to favour the 
 friability that is so desirable for seeding or planting, as the 
 case may be. 
 
 In bastard trenching, the cultivator is able to increase 
 the depth of soil available for the roots indeed, when 
 ground has been bastard-trenched three or four years in 
 succession, there should be no difficulty in moving the 
 
28 PRESENT-DAY GARDENING 
 
 soil to a depth of 2 feet, and it is commonly possible 
 to bastard-trench 3 or even 4 feet down ; and when this 
 enviable condition is reached there is nothing that the 
 grower should not be able to do in the production of 
 Sweet Peas. 
 
 The digging itself will be as thorough in the upper and 
 lower spits as when only a single layer is being moved, but 
 the original positions of the strata will be retained. This 
 is the best form of soil working for general adoption, 
 since it invariably tends to the benefit of the crops, and 
 in no circumstances whatever can it do the slightest 
 harm. In some lands it will only be found feasible in 
 the first season of trenching to loosen 5 or 6 inches of the 
 second spit with a pickaxe, but if it is followed up, season 
 after season, the depth of friable mould will steadily in- 
 crease until the maximum of soil is reached, and at that 
 stage the grower may, if he so desire, have recourse to true 
 or full trenching ; for the lower portions will then have 
 become sweet, and there will be no danger in bringing them 
 up to form the surface soil. 
 
 It has been stated that there is an ever-present element 
 of danger in true trenching, unless the grower is convinced 
 of his own knowledge that the subsoil is sweet, and this 
 fact must always be kept in mind. If a soil is trenched 
 and it is ascertained upon completion that the new surface 
 is so sour that sweetening is impossible in the time that 
 
TRENCHING 29 
 
 will elapse between the working and the seeding, the best 
 thing that can be done is to commence again and re-trench, 
 j in which process the two soils will regain their original 
 positions. The operation will then become more than ordi- 
 narily laborious, but the worker will have the satisfaction of 
 knowing that, as far as mechanical working is concerned, it 
 would be quite impossible for him to do more for his plants. 
 In true trenching the depth of moved soil should never 
 be less than 2 feet, and it ought to be 3 feet or a 
 little more. There are those who advocate the trenching 
 of soil to a depth of 5 or 6 feet, but one seldom sees 
 this put into practice, and it is almost certain that the 
 amount of good which the plants derive from it is quite 
 out of proportion to the labour entailed. The roots of 
 Sweet Peas seldom penetrate lower than 3 feet beneath 
 the surface, and, if they did, the probabilities are that their 
 lower extremities would not possess any great power of 
 feeding. The benefit, then, would be merely indirect 
 the root-run would be cooler and the soil would remain 
 moist longer in dry periods. Each grower must exercise 
 his own judgment as to the form of cultivation that is 
 likely to yield the best returns in his soil, and he can ex- 
 periment for two or three seasons until he makes himself 
 master of the problem. 
 
 Time of Soil Working. Not only, however, has the 
 particular method of working to be considered, but the 
 
30 PRESENT-DAY GARDENING 
 
 time of doing it ; and here again much must depend 
 upon circumstances which the individual alone can know. 
 As a general rule, medium to strong soils should be 
 thoroughly cultivated in the autumn and early winter, and 
 the surface ought to be left in as rough a condition as pos- 
 sible, to encourage the free passage of water and ensure the 
 utmost advantage from the action of frosts. In a climate 
 where the rainfall is heavy and winter frosts are not severe, 
 this system might be followed by a state of affairs that 
 would be the reverse of satisfactory instead of the lumps 
 being freely penetrated by frost, which by expanding the 
 water into ice would force the lumps apart and produce a 
 fine tilth, the mould would remain in a close, pasty condi- 
 tion, that would require weeks, or even months, before it 
 would be possible to do much with it. 
 
 It will, therefore, be readily seen that the grower must 
 largely draw upon his own experience and knowledge in 
 the matter of soil working, especially where the land is 
 heavy, since advice from one who has no real acquaintance 
 with all the circumstances of the case may easily lead to 
 disaster. Let such soils as are apt to close down after 
 autumn working stand over until the spring, and then put 
 the work in hand immediately the ground is in a fit condition. 
 The cultivator must exercise discretion in this direction, 
 since it is far wiser to defer the commencement of opera- 
 tions than it is to go on the land when it is sodden with 
 
SANDY SOILS 31 
 
 wet, as this would cause it to be trodden down closer, 
 making it more uncongenial than it was before. Always 
 dig such soils in small spits, and after the cultivation is 
 complete, seize every possible opportunity to break down 
 any lumps there may be ; weather that is bright after 
 showers will be favourable to this operation, and its neglect 
 will spell comparative failure. 
 
 It is necessary now to give some consideration to the 
 light, sandy soils common in various parts of the country. 
 They are not as suitable for Sweet Peas as are those of a 
 stronger nature, but, as it is obviously impossible for the 
 amateur to import to his garden the particular soil which 
 is more especially adapted to each individual crop, it be- 
 hoves him to do the best he can with that at command. 
 As far as Sweet Peas are concerned, correct methods of 
 procedure will bring a most generous reward even in sandy 
 soils. The conditions of success are depth of working, 
 judicious manuring, and consolidation before either sowing 
 seeds or putting out plants. The deeper the soil can be 
 cultivated, the longer it will hold moisture and plant food 
 in suspension, and, as a natural consequence, the longer 
 the plants will continue in health during the hot, summer 
 months. But no matter how deep the cultivation may be, 
 the desired results will not be obtained unless the soil is 
 thoroughly consolidated, and this must be done by repeated 
 treading prior to planting. 
 
32 PRESENT-DAY GARDENING 
 
 Unlike stronger soils, it is sound practice to let the light 
 ones lie solid through the winter, and in many instances 
 direct good will accrue when a few annual, surface-rooting 
 weeds are allowed to grow unchecked from November 
 until the time of working in the spring. Objection will 
 perhaps be lodged to this suggestion by many growers, on 
 the score that the weeds will draw supplies of food from 
 the soil, and thus the legitimate crops will be robbed ; but 
 there is really very little in this argument. The weeds 
 will certainly obtain sustenance from the soil, but they 
 can afterwards be buried at least 10 inches beneath the 
 surface, when, in rotting down, as they are sure to do in 
 due course, they will return to the soil the food which 
 they had previously drawn from it, and the next crop will 
 derive the benefit. It is not only, however, in this direction 
 that the weeds do good in light soil, but in the fact that they 
 prevent the water rushing as freely and as rapidly through 
 as it would do if the soil were left bare, or roughly turned 
 up in the autumn, as is advocated for loams and clays. 
 
 As early in February as it is convenient to get on the 
 ground, the process of working light soils should be put in 
 hand. Nothing short of a depth of 3 feet will give the 
 best results with Sweet Peas, and if the depth can be in- 
 creased without very much trouble to half as much again, 
 so much the better for the plants. It is excellent practice 
 to tread down each spit as the process goes on, since, when 
 
SOIL CONSOLIDATION 33 
 
 the soil is loosened to the depth recommended, surface 
 treading will only do real good in the top 9 inches or 
 thereabouts, whereas the consolidation should be carried 
 far deeper than this. The greatest care must be exercised 
 in this matter, no attempt at treading being made when 
 the land is soddened ; while to start to do it when it is 
 as dry as dust is tantamount to wasting time, for it will 
 not have the slightest effect. Choose the happy medium 
 between the two, preferably when the condition is just 
 on the dry side, and the full value of the process will be 
 secured. 
 
 In all cases, whether the soil is heavy, medium, or light 
 in texture, mechanical operations in connection with it 
 must be completed by the earliest possible date in March, 
 so that sufficient time may elapse between the final digging 
 over and the sowing of seeds or the planting of plants as 
 the case may be. Thus with roughly dug surface soil which 
 has weathered through the winter, the forking over to pro- 
 vide the necessary smooth and friable tilth must be done 
 in February and March, and especially so when the sowing 
 is in the open, for only by getting the seeds in by or before 
 the end of the latter month can the cultivator hope to obtain 
 perfect flowers at the middle of July, rather earlier or later 
 according to the season. There should be a depth of 10 
 inches of perfectly friable soil, as this will favour the satis- 
 factory growth of the young roots. With light soils let it 
 
34 PRESENT-DAY GARDENING 
 
 be again said that the final treading immediately in advance 
 of seeding must never be overlooked. 
 
 Manuring*. Hand in hand with the mechanical cultiva- 
 tion of the ground must, of course, run the manuring, and 
 it is an aspect of culture that demands the most intelligent 
 consideration. Although concentrated fertilisers are often 
 extremely valuable, they will not do all that is necessary 
 to ensure success with Sweet Peas. These free and deep- 
 rooting plants must have a soil with body in it, and this 
 can only be provided when natural manures are employed ; 
 but with these, and fertilisers as supplements, one may con- 
 fidently anticipate satisfaction. 
 
 Precisely as it is imperative with the mechanical work- 
 ing to consider the time of year, so it is with manuring. 
 The loams and clays, which possess the power of holding 
 plant food, should be manured in the autumn. The light 
 lands, which lack this retentiveness, must not be dealt with 
 until the spring, or the probabilities are that more than 
 three parts of the plant food will have been washed down 
 long before the roots are actively working in the late spring 
 and early summer months, while by the time they are 
 needing full supplies there will be practically no nutrient 
 matter left. 
 
 Assuming that the natural manures most generally avail- 
 able are farm-yard or stable dung and cow excrement, the 
 former should be chosen for the strong soils, and the latter 
 
MANURES AND MANURING 35 
 
 for the light lands. A clay soil requires opening up to the 
 freer passage of water and air, and horse manure contain- 
 ing straw aids substantially to this end. If there is any 
 choice in the matter of manures, let that containing long 
 straw be selected for clay, that with medium straw for the 
 strong loams, and that with short straw for the lighter 
 loams. The applications in each of these instances will 
 presumably be made in the autumn, and the materials may 
 be comparatively fresh as compared with those that would 
 be applied in the spring, since an autumn dressing allows 
 abundance of time for the manure to become sweet before 
 the roots of the plants are working freely in it. The 
 manure that is worked into light soils, or into others which 
 necessity compels the grower to cultivate in the spring, must 
 be thoroughly rotted and perfectly sweet at the time of use. 
 There are, broadly speaking, only two systems of work- 
 ing in the manure. The first is to thoroughly incorporate 
 it with the soil as the digging or trenching proceeds, and 
 the second is to take out trenches and put the manure 
 in these in solid layers. While the latter method may 
 favour the development of longer stems, it also encourages 
 a grossness that is far from being satisfactory, as it shows 
 itself in the flowers, and often gives them that floppy, un- 
 wieldy appearance that very nearly makes the Sweet Pea 
 ugly because it looks so coarse. The worst manure of all 
 for encouraging this undesirable state of affairs is night-soil, 
 
36 PRESENT-DAY GARDENING 
 
 but excess of any kind will lead to the same trouble. In 
 the light, sandy soils which some growers have to work, it is 
 perhaps permissible to put in a layer, 6 inches or so in thick- 
 ness, between the second and third spits, but it should not 
 be done in any other circumstances. In all instances where 
 it is deemed imperative that a layer of some sort should 
 be put in to arrest the too free passage of the food-laden 
 moisture, the preference might well be given to turfs 3 
 inches in thickness, placed rather deep with the grass side 
 underneath, and then cut through several times with a sharp 
 spade ; these will answer the purpose for which the layer 
 is particularly intended without bringing with them the 
 risk of coarseness. In shallow soils, where it is impossible 
 to get down even two full spits, the manure should be laid 
 on the second spit and then worked in as much as possible. 
 In all other cases, unless there is some special reason to 
 adopt another system, let the manure be thoroughly incor- 
 porated with the lower soil, and, if any is placed in the top 
 spit, let it take the form of refuse material such as that from 
 old hotbeds or cucumber pits, as this will provide some- 
 thing to which the young and tender roots will take quickly 
 and at the same time give a little food ; this stuff is more 
 valuable on strong than on light lands, and should not be 
 worked in until the spring, or its full value will not be 
 secured. 
 
 In many instances it is to be feared that success is not 
 
CONCENTRATED FERTILISERS 37 
 
 obtained simply because the manure at command is poor 
 in quality. When natural manure is stacked in heaps and 
 exposed for months to the weather, somewhere about three 
 parts of its food virtues are washed out of it before it is put 
 into the soil. It should always be stacked under cover, 
 where it is impossible for the rains to pass through it, and 
 the liquid which naturally drains out of it must be saved 
 for future use. 
 
 In the possible event, then, of the manure being poor, 
 the grower must turn to the concentrated fertilisers to 
 provide compensation. The usual practice is to apply 
 these when the soil is being finally prepared in the spring, 
 but they can be used in the autumn, and in certain circum- 
 stances will then give superior returns. It is, however, 
 essential that whatever is applied at that season of the 
 year shall be slow in yielding up its food properties, 
 or the value of the application will be almost wholly lost 
 to the plants. As a simple dressing for Sweet Peas there 
 is nothing better than basic slag, finely ground, and used 
 at the rate of 10 to 12 Ibs. to the square rod, and even 
 more where the dressing of dung is light and its quality 
 inferior. This will not meet all the requirements of the 
 plants, since it gives no appreciable amount of potash, which 
 is essential to the finest results, therefore it must be supple- 
 mented with kainit at the rate of 6 to 8 Ibs. to the rod. 
 This latter salt is valuable as a soil cleanser as well as 
 
38 PRESENT-DAY GARDENING 
 
 a fertiliser ; it should be applied in autumn to give the best 
 results. 
 
 A second form of using concentrated fertilisers, and one 
 which serves admirably in many instances, is to mix what- 
 ever is chosen in with the manure itself prior to working it 
 
 fr 
 
 into the soil. One stone of kainit and two stones of super- 
 phosphate of lime, spread evenly on a thin heap of manure 
 weighing approximately one ton, and then the material 
 turned inwards and outwards two or three times to work 
 the fertilisers right through, will improve the dung by 
 somewhere about 30 per cent., and that is a consideration 
 worthy of note. 
 
 It will be observed that nitrogen is omitted in each of 
 these suggestions, since in all soils it is far better used in 
 the spring, and in the majority of cases is best held back 
 for exclusive use as a stimulant. For spring use sulphate 
 of potash should take the place of kainit, and the quan- 
 tity must not exceed, except in the rarest circumstances, 
 3 Ibs. to the square rod. Superphosphate will also be 
 necessary, and a good dressing is 6 Ibs. to the square 
 rod. In the possible event of nitrogen being needed for 
 application early in spring, mix equal proportions of sul- 
 phate of ammonia and nitrate of soda, and use 3 Ibs. to the 
 square rod ; the mixture gives finer results than an equal 
 quantity of either used alone, and it must be forked into the 
 top 8 inches of surface soil. 
 
CHAPTER V 
 SEED SOWING 
 
 FORTUNATELY, the grower of Sweet Peas has ample latitude 
 in regard to seed sowing. He has not to depend upon the 
 conditions of weather and soil being ideal in any particular 
 week, for he can commence sowing in September, and 
 continue monthly, with the exception of December, until 
 the following April there have been instances where a May 
 sowing has produced excellent plants which have blossomed 
 freely very late in the season. During recent years the prac- 
 tice of sowing in pots, either in the autumn or the spring, 
 has become more and more popular, and there are amateurs 
 who appear to think that it is only in this manner that the 
 best exhibition flowers can be produced. This, however, is 
 very far from being correct. Assuming all other things are 
 favourable, it is just as easy to grow good flowers from 
 seeds sown out-of-doors in autumn or spring, according to 
 conveniences and circumstances, as it is from seeds sown 
 under glass at those seasons. It is, of course, obvious that 
 pot-sown seeds and plants are more under the complete 
 control of the cultivator than those out-of-doors ; but apart 
 
 39 
 
40 PRESENT-DAY GARDENING 
 
 from this there is no substantial advantage in the system. 
 Autumn sowing is advantageous in giving a longer time for 
 the plants to root in, and, although they may not gain 
 materially in earliness over spring-sown seeds, this superior 
 root development will tell in the substance and colour of 
 the blooms ; but when all is said, the grower must settle 
 the point for himself. 
 
 Autumn Sowing. Now let us particularise a little as to 
 the best times for autumn and spring sowing, and we will 
 take outdoor work first, as being the more generally con- 
 venient. Those who live in cold districts and have to 
 contend with a strong, close, clayey soil should endeavour 
 to get seeds in during September, early or late according to 
 the weather. The seeds should be sown more thickly than 
 in more congenial soils, but attention to this point will be 
 drawn in due course. In either strong or medium loams 
 the best month is October, while in warm sands November 
 will prove the most generally suitable. If there is a cold 
 frame at command, the middle of October is an ideal 
 time for sowing, and 6-inch pots should be given the 
 preference over those of smaller size, since they afford 
 additional root room, which Sweet Peas greatly appreciate. 
 Five seeds should be set round the sides of the large pot ; 
 or if it is necessary to use 3-inch pots, then put one seed in 
 the middle and be prepared to repot as early in the spring 
 as possible. Few growers, however, care to go to this 
 
PLATE IV 
 QUEEN ALEXANDRA 
 
. SPRING SOWING 43 
 
 trouble with Sweet Peas, but it will be commonly found 
 imperative in exhibition culture, with which my experienced 
 friend and most successful grower, Thomas Stevenson, 
 deals on another page. If under-glass sowing in the 
 autumn is adopted, the utmost care must be taken not to 
 coddle the plants, or the results will prove the reverse of 
 satisfactory ; on the contrary, keep the frames open when- 
 ever the weather will permit of it, so that the growth shall 
 be strong, hardy, and sturdy from the start. 
 
 If mice find their way into the pots, they will eat all 
 the seeds of the best varieties. The simplest method of 
 preventing them is to place a pane of glass over the top 
 of each pot, since it is from the surface, and not from the 
 base, that they work ; needless to say, immediately the seed- 
 lings show through the surface the glass should be re- 
 moved. At that stage danger will come from slugs, which 
 ought to be hunted for and trapped persistently, and birds, 
 which still attack the plants whenever they get the oppor- 
 tunity. An effectual method of preventing them is to 
 have a light framework of fine-meshed galvanised wire, 
 made exactly the same size as the light, and when the 
 latter is off, let the wire be placed in position. Should 
 birds top the plants once it is not of serious moment, 
 but they must not be allowed to do it repeatedly or the 
 plants will die. 
 
 Spring Sowing. Passing now to spring sowing, we 
 
44 PRESENT-DAY GARDENING 
 
 shall commence towards the end of January, in pots, and 
 again the preference should be given to large ones if it can 
 possibly be made convenient. Either a greenhouse or a 
 frame will answer the purpose, provided that the heat 
 is very gentle ; high temperatures will, of course, favour 
 quicker germination and more rapid progress subsequently, 
 but the growth will be weaker and the difficulties and 
 dangers, when the time arrives for placing the plants in 
 their permanent positions, will be materially increased. At 
 the same time, absolute cold is not good for Sweet Peas 
 sown in January. Where there is no heated structure, or 
 that at command is too hot, it will be wiser to wait until 
 the middle or end of February before sowing ; the grower 
 will not then have to worry for fear of the plants becom- 
 ing drawn before the soil and weather are favourable to 
 planting. Out-of-door sowing in spring may be done at 
 any time after the middle of March up to the end of April 
 with every prospect of success. In gardens where the soil 
 is light and warm a start may be made in February, 
 particularly if a sheltered situation can be added to the 
 other advantages named. Taking one season with another, 
 the fourth week of the month of March is usually the best 
 period. 
 
 When pot culture is decided upon, the grower must be 
 prepared not only to give the plants attention from the 
 time that they show through the surface, but also to provide 
 
SOIL FOR POTS 45 
 
 a special soil mixture. The ordinary soil of the garden 
 may, and does, answer perfectly for seeds sown directly into 
 it where the plants are to flower, but it is seldom good 
 enough for use in pots. However, the compost is far from 
 elaborate, and may be easily provided by those who will 
 take a little trouble. The principal ingredient must be 
 sound, fibrous loam, and of this there may be three parts, 
 all the fibre being retained and only the finest dust re- 
 moved ; then there should be one part each of refuse 
 manure and sweet, thoroughly decomposed leaf-mould. 
 If there is the slightest doubt as to the quality of the leaf- 
 soil, omit it entirely and rely upon the manure, since inferior 
 leaf-mould will do far more harm than good, and on more 
 than one occasion it has led to complete failure. Beyond 
 these things it will be necessary to add, roughly, a tenth 
 part of sharp sand to ensure the perfect porosity of the 
 mixture. The ingredients should be mixed thoroughly 
 quite two, and preferably three, weeks before use, and it 
 must then be in a pleasantly moist state, no matter what 
 varieties are being sown. 
 
 It is imperative in pot-sowing to make some distinction 
 between those varieties with white seeds and others having 
 mauve in the colour of their flowers, and the ordinary 
 black or brown-seeded sorts, or the results may prove 
 disastrous. It is well known to all experienced growers 
 that the mauve-coloured varieties invariably have most 
 
46 PRESENT-DAY GARDENING 
 
 wretched-looking seeds usually very small, and commonly 
 spotted and wrinkled and these, with the white ones, are 
 very apt to rot in the soil if it is kept too moist or they 
 are set too deeply. For these, then, the cultivator should 
 use a rather lighter soil, with an increased proportion of 
 sand, surface the soil with pure sand, set the seeds not 
 more than a quarter of an inch deep, and cover them with 
 sand. Further than this, the soil should be kept drier than 
 is either necessary or desirabje for the majority of sorts. 
 For all brown and black seeds the depth may be between 
 half an inch and an inch, and the covering-in should always 
 be done with fine soil. Many cultivators chip all seeds 
 prior to sowing, but the practice is rarely necessary. If it 
 is seen that the plants are not showing through the surface 
 within a reasonable time after sowing, the soil should be 
 turned out carefully and the seeds found ; if they are still 
 sound they can be chipped and re-sown ; if they have 
 rotted the matter is ended, and a second sowing must be 
 made forthwith. Although this appears to be more trouble 
 than chipping the skins of all seeds at the outset, it is 
 preferable. In the white-seeded varieties, and also in one 
 or two with black skins, split seeds are comparatively 
 common, and, notwithstanding the care that is taken by 
 seedsmen to pick them out, some will assuredly find their 
 way into the packets. The grower should not give him- 
 self a moment's anxiety about them ; they will simply 
 
OUTDOOR SEED SOWING 47 
 
 germinate rather quicker, but care must be taken not to get 
 the soil wet. 
 
 Having dealt with the manner of sowing under glass, 
 we will now turn to outdoor sowing, which, as already 
 stated, is still far more extensively practised by the culti- 
 vators than under -glass sowing. Much has been said 
 and written as to the marked advantages of sowing in 
 flat -bottomed, shallow trenches or drills, as compared 
 with the triangular drills drawn with the heel of a cutting 
 hoe, but there are still many amateurs who adopt the 
 latter system. They should drop it instantly, for the 
 simple reason that triangular drills are prejudicial from 
 the start, and the results can never, therefore, be as 
 satisfactoiy as when the plants proceed perfectly from the 
 earliest stages. 
 
 Every grower of Sweet Peas should decide to have 
 shallow trenches in future. It is obvious that the depth 
 will vary slightly according to the texture of the soil the 
 stronger it is, the shallower the cutting should be ; the 
 lighter it is, the deeper the trenches should be. In any 
 case they must not exceed 4 inches, and never be less 
 than 2 inches. It should not be assumed that the seeds 
 will be covered to the full depth in either case ; on the 
 contrary, a surfacing of i inch to i inches suffices 
 according to circumstances, and the greater depth of 
 cutting is simply advised so that the stems can be 
 
48 PRESENT-DAY GARDENING 
 
 moulded up a little as protection, without bringing the 
 level up to such a degree that it looks like a miniature 
 Potato hill. 
 
 Another important point in direct relation to sowing 
 is the distance at which the seed ought to be placed. The 
 advice to sow thinly has been insisted upon often enough 
 by experienced growers, but it is certain that ideas as to 
 what constitutes thin sowing are varied and confused. 
 Some growers will place the seeds about three deep in the 
 drill. Then comes the individual who considers that a 
 single layer is the ideal of thin sowing, and still another 
 sets them 12 inches asunder, forgetting that some of the 
 seeds may fail to germinate, that mice may demand a 
 toll before the seedlings are through, that slugs and birds 
 will also take a share, until, when the thinning by these 
 means is finished, the plants may stand at anything from 
 3 feet to 6 feet apart for flowering. As a matter of fact, it is 
 exceedingly difficult to lay down a hard-and-fast rule that 
 will suit all cultivators, but if the distance varies from 
 i inch to 2 inches it is almost impossible that the grower 
 can go far astray. There will then be sufficient for the 
 mice, birds, and slugs to have a fair share and for the 
 thinning to be completed so that a distance of 12, 15, 18, 
 or 24 inches separates the plants in the rows. Those who 
 aspire to produce exhibition blooms will be wise to follow 
 Thomas Stevenson's advice, while the immense majority, 
 
SUPPORTING THE PLANTS 49 
 
 who grow plants to yield an abundance of flowers for the 
 immediate adornment of the garden, will allow the plants 
 12 to 15 inches asunder in the rows, and know that they 
 are doing the right thing. 
 
 It is necessary to draw attention to the fact that the 
 plants can be grown in either single or double lines, but 
 the former method is much to be preferred. For a single 
 line of seeds the shallow trench may be anything from 4 to 
 6 inches in width, whereas for a double line it must be at 
 least 15 inches, and the seeds should be placed within an 
 inch of the edge on each side. The particular object of 
 this is, of course, to leave a wide space between the plants 
 at the base, so that there will always be an abundance of 
 fresh air playing about them ; and this should be still further 
 encouraged when the plants are thinned out to the flowering 
 distances by removing those in the one row which come 
 opposite to those in the other ; the plants will thus stand 
 triangularly, or, as it is commonly termed in gardens, 
 " opposite vacancy." 
 
 Supporting the Plants. No matter whether the plants 
 are growing in pots or the open ground, it is imperative 
 that they shall be given early support. The youngster 
 that is permitted to fall over and lie recumbent for only 
 a few hours is seriously prejudiced from the start, apart 
 altogether from the fact that there is always a danger, when 
 it is necessary for the plant to be drawn upright, that it 
 
50 PRESENT-DAY GARDENING 
 
 will be snapped off. The grower who desires to pose as 
 a philosopher will, of course, immediately affirm that he 
 had intended to top the plant in any case, and that he has 
 been saved the trouble ; but the probabilities are that his 
 private views on the point would be somewhat different. 
 The rule should be to place sticks to the seedlings before 
 they attain to the height of 4 inches, and to these pre- 
 liminary sticks the young plants should always be carefully 
 attached with bass or other convenient material. The Sweet 
 Pea is a tendril-producing plant, and in principle these 
 natural supports should be sufficient, but in practice this 
 seldom proves to be the case, and artificial support must be 
 given. For the early sticks the brashy parts may be cut 
 from the tops of the final stakes if desired, or the twigs 
 from an old besom may be requisitioned ; in any case they 
 ought to be about 15 inches in length, so that approxi- 
 mately they may be placed 3 inches deep in the soil and 
 extend 12 inches out of it. The chief point for the amateur 
 to keep in view in this early tying is to make perfectly 
 sure of adequate support without arresting the advancement 
 of the young plant, as will inevitably be done should the 
 ligature be put on too tightly. 
 
 Before the plants reach the tops of the twiggy sticks 
 the permanent ones must be put into position, and these 
 can be of hazel or other convenient natural wood ; or 
 ordinary, large-meshed, galvanised wire, or one of the 
 
PLANTING OUT 51 
 
 excellent, specially made wire frameworks may be procured 
 for the purpose. It is indisputable that there still exists 
 in the minds of many amateurs a prejudice against any 
 other support than that of sticks, but the wire answers 
 perfectly well, and has the advantage of being to a large 
 degree permanent, since, if proper care is taken in storage 
 after use, it will last for many seasons, and thus come 
 out cheaper in the long run than sticks, except in those 
 districts where good sticks can be bought at low prices. 
 The height of the sticks or the wire, as the case may be, 
 will necessarily vary in accordance with the usual height 
 to which the plants attain in the district. 
 
 Planting Out. When the plants are grown from seeds 
 sown under glass, either in the autumn or the spring, there 
 will come a time, almost invariably in April, when they 
 will have to be put out into their permanent positions. 
 This operation demands both judgment and care judg- 
 ment to know precisely when the plants and the weather are 
 both especially favourable, and care to guard against the 
 possibility of the smallest damage to the roots. One of the 
 commonest objections to sowing in large pots, rather than 
 in small ones, is that unless the entire mass of soil and roots 
 is planted intact, in which case the plants will be far too 
 close together, the roots will assuredly be more or less 
 seriously injured ; but this will not be so, provided that 
 proper care is taken in the process. When all the condi- 
 
52 PRESENT-DAY GARDENING 
 
 tions are satisfactory to the work being done, the soil in the 
 large pots should be allowed to get just on the dry side by 
 withholding water the day prior to the task, and then it will 
 be found exceedingly easy to separate the plants without a 
 single root being injured. As soon as the comparatively 
 dry mass is turned out of the pot, place it on its side on 
 the blade of the spade or a piece of board procured for 
 the purpose, and steadily press downwards, when the mass 
 will crumble and the plants can be individually chosen for 
 immediately planting. 
 
 It is most important when this is done that the soil shall 
 have been thoroughly soaked a few hours previously, so 
 that the roots shall not be put directly into dry soil, or they 
 will experience a check of more or less seventy. It may or 
 may not be deemed necessary to water afterwards ; as a 
 general rule it is wise to do so, since it will settle the soil 
 well down to the roots ; but in all instances watering should 
 be done in advance if the ground is dry. 
 
 The distance of setting the plants, whether they are in 
 rows or clumps, will obviously be that at which the plants 
 will remain, since it is not now anticipated that there will 
 be any losses. Those who do not feel that they can sepa- 
 rate the masses without breaking several of the roots should 
 plant intact, and then draw out the stems to supports placed 
 at some distance from them, in order to ensure an ample 
 distance between the five in the group ; but unless this is 
 
SINGLE-STEMMED PLANTS 53 
 
 done with the utmost skill it is not as satisfactory as divi- 
 sion. Plants in small pots will, of course, be put out with 
 the mass of soil and roots unbroken, as there would be no 
 benefit in any disturbance. The soil must be made firm, 
 but it should not be trodden down as hard as the proverbial 
 macadamised road, as is occasionally done, and especial 
 care must be taken in this operation if the soil is on the 
 wet side when the work is done, or it will settle down into 
 a close mass, impenetrable alike by water or air. In the 
 possible event of this occurring, the first available oppor- 
 tunity must be taken of opening it up, but be careful that 
 the roots are not disturbed in the process ; unless air can 
 penetrate, it is certain that the progress will not be as good 
 as it ought to be, and as it must be to give the best blooms. 
 
 Unless the plants are grown exclusively with a view to 
 the production of exhibition flowers, it is improbable that 
 they will be restricted to single stems. It is true that when 
 they are sown as thickly as Mustard and Cress, and thinning 
 is entirely neglected, they will only develop single stems, and 
 poor ones at that ; but if all parts of the plant have the 
 benefit of unobstructed light and fresh air there may be 
 any number from two to six stems, according to the fancy 
 of the grower ; but the more there are, the further must 
 the individual plants be set apart. 
 
 In most instances plants having three stems in a space 
 of 15 or 1 8 inches, preferably the latter, will give quite 
 
54 PRESENT-DAY GARDENING 
 
 satisfactory returns ; for the flowers will be excellent in 
 quality and carried on stout stems of good length. Whether 
 the plants will flower continuously over a protracted period 
 very largely depends upon the persistency with which the 
 grower keeps the blooms picked ; if he allows seed pods 
 to form, then he must expect to see the productiveness of 
 the plants fail rapidly. Just before the flowers attain to 
 perfection is the best time to gather, as well in the interests 
 of the flowers themselves as of the plants. 
 
 Immediately the plants are in their permanent positions 
 the grower should provide the supports necessary (where 
 wires are used it is better to set them in place beforehand and 
 plant up to them). The sticks must be sufficiently long to 
 permit of a good length going into the soil, or they will in- 
 evitably be blown down when the plants are in full activity 
 and there comes a high wind. They should be carried 
 perfectly uprightly or, and still better, lean outwards slightly 
 at the top, and not inwards, as is too commonly seen. When 
 the latter style is adopted not only is the support insuffi- 
 cient at the top, where it is more especially required, but 
 air is prevented from circulating freely among the growths, 
 and the result is that they do not blossom as profusely and 
 continuously as they would do were the conditions more 
 favourable. If the plants are grown in parallel lines, these 
 should run slightly north-east and south-west if possible, 
 and not dead north and south ; there ought to be a distance 
 
WATERING AND FEEDING 5$ 
 
 of about 6 feet between them. The distance between clumps 
 must obviously depend upon their size ; some are only 
 3 feet in diameter, while others run to 6 feet, and even more 
 than that in many gardens. 
 
 Watering and Feeding. If the soil is thoroughly and 
 deeply cultivated to start with, and generous applications 
 of manure are incorporated, it is not likely that the plants 
 will require any water until they are showing buds ; in any 
 event it is wise to defer watering until it becomes imperative, 
 especially where hard, tap water alone is available, for if 
 this is repeatedly given the temperature of the soil will be 
 gradually lowered until it reaches a point at which the 
 plants cannot absorb food. As soon as it is clear that 
 the soil is becoming dry, watering must be done, and it 
 should be such a soaking that the ground will be moistened 
 to a depth of about 3 feet. To ensure this it is necessary 
 to apply 3 gallons to the square yard on the majority of 
 soils, and 5 gallons will not be a drop too much on light 
 lands that overlie gravel. This done, the grower should not 
 make the slightest attempt to water a second time until the 
 soil is again almost quite dry. 
 
 With the plants in full bud and bloom, it will be essen- 
 tial to assist them with weak liquid manure, and this must 
 always be given when the soil is moist after rain or after 
 artificial waterings have been afforded. The quantity ought 
 to be exactly the same as with clear water, and the latter 
 
56 PRESENT-DAY GARDENING 
 
 must always come between two applications of liquid 
 manure. Just how often feeding will be needed depends 
 upon the condition of the soil and the plants, but nothing 
 is to be gained, and something may easily be lost, by 
 excessive applications. 
 
 In regard to the particular form of stimulant or food 
 that will be given, it may be taken for granted that each 
 grower will work according to his own convenience ; and 
 fortunately Sweet Peas are not fastidious in this matter, 
 but will, when in full vigour and perfect health, be thankful 
 for anything good that may happen to come along. The 
 principal point that the cultivator must keep in view is to 
 provide as great a change as possible, and in no circum- 
 stances to give the same food in the same form twice in 
 immediate succession. Soot-water or liquid manure from 
 the farm-yard will answer admirably, and a fairly safe guide 
 to strength is to give them of the colour of weak tea or pale 
 ale. As a special stimulant nitrate of soda or sulphate of 
 ammonia, at the rate of one ounce to the gallon of water, is 
 excellent, and will increase the richness of the colour in 
 both leaves and flowers ; but if nitrate of potash is at com- 
 mand it is superior to either of those named, for the reason 
 that it will improve the substance and texture of the blooms 
 as well as the colour. It must not be used at a greater 
 strength than half an ounce in each gallon of water, and 
 three gallons to the square yard should be the rule. 
 
PLATE V 
 MRS. HUGH DICKSON 
 
SURFACE CULTIVATION 59 
 
 In order to secure the full advantage of the food that 
 was originally put into the soil, and also that which is given 
 in the form of liquid manure, it is imperative that the surface 
 soil shall either be persistently loosened with a fork or a hoe, 
 or that a mulching of manure shall be spread over the entire 
 area. Obviously the latter is the better system, since at 
 the same time as it conserves the moisture in the soil it 
 adds food to it, and thus affords a double benefit. As a 
 rule the shorter the manure for top-dressing the better, 
 but if necessary, longer stuff can be utilised, in which case 
 it is wise to fork it up occasionally, or it may settle down 
 into a close mass and prevent air penetrating freely into the 
 ground, thus doing as much, or even more, harm than good. 
 Before any mulching is applied the grower should loosen 
 the surface soil and destroy all weeds. In most cases it 
 will be wise to draw back the dressing when water or liquid 
 manure has to be given, replacing it as soon afterwards as 
 it is wise to go on the soil. It will also be found beneficial 
 to hose or syringe the plants forcibly on the evenings of 
 intensely hot, dry days. 
 
 Although the plants will continue to produce flowers in 
 succession over a long period when the management is 
 good, it is certain that there will come a time when they 
 show signs of failing, and the blooms will neither be so 
 numerous nor the stem stalks so long. The display in many 
 instances will be maintained by plants that have been grown 
 
60 PRESENT-DAY GARDENING 
 
 on from later sowings, but when they are plainly exhausted 
 excellent results frequently accrue upon cutting them boldly 
 down to within 3 feet of the ground and starting them on 
 a new lease of life. The soil must be carefully loosened, 
 all mulching either pricked in or entirely removed ; water- 
 ing and feeding with liquid manure must be rather more 
 generous than was the case before ; a fresh application of 
 manure should be put on ; each plant must be limited to 
 three stems, and the reward will be a second crop of blooms, 
 about six weeks later, almost equal in quality and quantity 
 to the first flowers. This system does not always yield the 
 desired results, as much depends upon soil, situation, and 
 management, but the frequency of success is sufficient to 
 warrant a trial in all gardens. 
 
 No reference has yet been made to nitro-culture, which 
 was much talked about a short time ago. It now seems 
 clear, after most careful trials, that in thoroughly culti- 
 vated and intelligently manured garden soils the system of 
 treating the seeds or the soil with nitro-bacterine cultures 
 does not materially improve matters ; in some soils it 
 may be advantageous, while in others there is no differ- 
 ence between plants so treated and those grown in the 
 ordinary manner. 
 
CHAPTER VI 
 CULTURE UNDER GLASS 
 
 THE culture of Sweet Peas in pots under glass is not the 
 most satisfactory thing in the world to carry out. If the 
 structures are exceptionally light and the provision for 
 ventilation is perfect these conditions prevail in market 
 growers' houses the degree of success will satisfy those 
 who are not especially critical. In the ordinary green- 
 house, however, with its varied occupants, the results are 
 often the reverse of gratifying, for the plants take up a 
 considerable amount of space, demand incessant attention 
 from the time the seedlings appear through the surface 
 of the soil, and the flowers they yield are often few in 
 numbers and poor in substance. However, many growers 
 will make a trial, and it is hoped they will do thoroughly 
 well. The requisites are simple enough. There should be 
 10 or 12 inch pots perfectly drained and filled to within 
 an inch and a half or thereabouts of the rim with a 
 compost of three parts turfy loam, pulled to pieces and 
 used, except at the top, in a lumpy condition, and one part 
 of sweetened manure, with an addition of sand varying 
 
 61 
 
62 PRESENT-DAY GARDENING 
 
 according to the consistency of the loam ; the stronger 
 the latter, the more sand is needed. Not more than six 
 plants should be placed in each pot, and when they are 
 staked care must be taken to run the supports outwards 
 at the top so as to ensure the utmost amount of light 
 and air reaching every part of the stems. During the early 
 stages it is necessary to water with great judgment, as it 
 is extremely easy to make a compost sour when roots are 
 not working freely in it ; but when the plants are in full 
 progress, both water and liquid manure, the latter, as usual, 
 weak and in good variety, will be essential. From the 
 commencement the plants must be given the lightest posi- 
 tion in the house. The temperature should never be ex- 
 cessive a maximum of 50 degrees is quite warm enough, 
 unless there is a special reason for endeavouring to en- 
 courage the buds to expand rather more quickly ; and even 
 then it is well within the bounds of possibility that the 
 plants will draw up to a height of ten or more feet, and 
 there will not be hundreds of splendid flowers such as an 
 equal number of plants would yield out-of-doors. 
 
 The Telemly and American winter-flowering varieties 
 answer well in suitable structures, but they are not gener- 
 ally adapted for amateurs' houses, for the reason] already 
 given, that there is not sufficient light and air. In the 
 ordinary way the seeds should be sown early in the spring, 
 precisely at the same time as if the plants were for outdoor 
 
CULTURE UNDER GLASS 63 
 
 culture, and the treatment throughout will be the same, 
 except that, instead of sowing in small pots, the seeds should 
 be put directly into those in which the plants are to bloom. 
 Or, if it is preferred, the seeds can be sown in boxes which, 
 by the way, is an admirable system for general purposes 
 and when the plants are 2 or 3 inches high they must 
 be transferred to the flowering pots. If pots of the size 
 suggested are not readily procurable, smaller ones may 
 be used with fewer plants in them, and they will then 
 demand even more care in feeding ; and the best results 
 will only be secured when collars are put inside the rims 
 of the pots for containing top-dressings of rich compost. 
 
 For winter-flowering, seeds should be sown in August 
 or September, and the plants will succeed best when they 
 are grown in thoroughly prepared soil which is not made 
 too rich with organic manures, as these latter encourage 
 gross growth. 
 
CHAPTER VII 
 SWEET PEAS FOR THE GARDEN 
 
 OPINIONS vary as to whether plants grown in rows or 
 clumps produce the finer blooms, some growers insisting 
 that rows are preferable, while others are equally emphatic 
 that clumps give the better results. As a matter of fact 
 there is probably little or no difference. The reason that 
 clumps came so conspicuously into favour was, no doubt, 
 that the soil was worked better, more space was given, 
 light reached all parts of every plant, and the natural 
 consequence was that the blooms were superior in every 
 respect to those grown on plants in rows under the care- 
 less system that prevailed before the Sweet Pea became 
 the important plant that it is at present. If the rows are 
 given the same chances as the clumps as far as mechanical 
 culture and manuring are concerned, and ample space 
 is allowed the plants, there will be nothing to choose 
 between the returns either in quantity or quality. 
 
 For the decoration of the garden, however, there is 
 much to be said in favour of clumps, since they can be 
 
 made to give a more artistic effect than rows. For the 
 
 64 
 
SWEET PEAS FOR GARDEN 65 
 
 back line of a wide border a row of well-grown Sweet Peas 
 is unsurpassable in beauty, and if the colours are judiciously 
 chosen a mixture will be more attractive than individual 
 varieties kept separate ; but for beds, and placing at intervals 
 in borders, clumps of distinct varieties are to be preferred. 
 Much depends upon the extent of the bed or the border 
 how far the clumps should be set apart, but nothing is 
 gained by packing them until it is possible that the loose 
 sprays from one will find their way among the growths of 
 the neighbouring clump, while it is of the utmost import- 
 ance, especially in borders, that they shall not present a 
 level line throughout the entire length, but that some 
 shall be set 3 feet back, while others will be 5 or 8 feet 
 away from the verge, or even more than that if there is 
 room. By adopting some such system as this, formality 
 is avoided. 
 
 Such clumps will give exhibition blooms if the culture 
 has been perfect throughout, but their value will lie mainly 
 in supplying continuous flowers for cutting, for the decora- 
 tion of rooms, and for distribution among friends. The 
 absolute necessity for close picking must never be over- 
 looked by those who require a long succession, which is 
 also substantially favoured by watering and mulching. 
 
CHAPTER VIII 
 SWEET PEAS FOR DECORATIONS 
 
 IN this one respect, if in no other, the Sweet Pea may be 
 said to be the foremost flower in British gardens at the 
 present day. Whether blossoms are required for the adorn- 
 ment of the home or for purposes of exhibition, the Sweet 
 Pea will meet every demand that is made upon it, and in 
 the hands of a skilful manipulator it is perfectly certain 
 that an arrangement can be made which will excel in 
 artistic beauty that which will be forthcoming from any 
 other flower. 
 
 Plants grown for the decoration of the garden will 
 yield thousands of flowers for cutting, and since it is not 
 essential in the filling of vases, epergnes, and other orna- 
 ments suitable for the display of the flowers, that each stem 
 shall carry four or more blooms on its length of anything 
 from 1 6 inches to 2 feet, it is not imperative to adopt 
 elaborate methods of procedure in the cultivation of the 
 plants. At the same time it must be kept in mind that 
 the plant which is grown in poor soil, and is still further 
 prejudiced by not being allowed an abundance of space in 
 
 66 
 
ARRANGING SWEET PEAS 67 
 
 which to grow, will neither give the numbers of flowers 
 nor the quality or richness of colour which go so far to 
 provide the most delightful effects. 
 
 In the majority of instances varieties of one, two, or 
 three colours are ample in each vessel, but occasionally 
 mixtures may be employed to create a decided change. 
 Care must be exercised to set the stems in such a 
 manner that each bloom shows its full charm, and to 
 this end the fewer the stems provided, of course, that 
 the number is sufficient to properly furnish the receptacle 
 the better ; it is necessary, too, that the additions of 
 grasses and foliage are moderate, that it shall be clearly 
 apparent that the Sweet Peas are the display, and that 
 the supplementary things are merely put in with a view 
 to enhancing the effect. 
 
CHAPTER IX 
 CUPID AND BUSH VARIETIES 
 
 WE are indebted to America for both of these sections, 
 and it is well within the bounds of possibility that they 
 thrive perfectly in the climate of California and the United 
 States of America ; but they certainly do not flourish here, 
 and they are never likely to become popular. 
 
 The Bush varieties are precisely similar in their require- 
 ments to the general section, but instead of attaining to a 
 height of anything from 6 feet upwards, they only grow 
 between 3 and 4 feet. If they could be relied upon 
 to give abundant blossoms at that height they would 
 undoubtedly be welcome in the smaller gardens, for the 
 ordinary varieties are rather apt to take up more space 
 than the amateur can properly afford. Unfortunately the 
 Bush plants are not satisfactory in this respect ; therefore 
 they are rarely grown in this country. Some of these days 
 they may be so much improved that they will rival the 
 others in floriferousness, and when that time comes it is 
 safe to predict for them an era of popularity. 
 
 The Cupid section is, perhaps, less satisfactory still, 
 
 68 
 
CUPID SWEET PEAS 69 
 
 for it is generally easy to grow healthy plants that look 
 as though they would produce thousands of charming 
 blossoms, and then to see all the buds thrown off before 
 expansion ; a little of this sort of thing gets on the nerves 
 of the average Briton, and he resolves to let the Cupids 
 severely alone. Out-of-doors the best place for them is 
 in a hot, sunny situation on a rockery where the roots 
 and stems will be nearly baked, as they will then in a dry 
 season give plenty of flowers. Or if they are grown in 
 pots they must be stood in a position where they will get 
 sun enough to roast them, and afterwards they will some- 
 times develop all their buds perfectly. Six-inch pots are 
 the most convenient, and each will accommodate six plants ; 
 the soil should be the same as recommended for the ordi- 
 nary section, but it must not be used in quite as lumpy a 
 state. In any case the general culture of these two groups 
 is not specially recommended ; the grower who tries them 
 should be wary. 
 
 
CHAPTER X 
 
 ENEMIES AND DISEASES 
 
 THE Sweet Pea has claims upon the attention of cultivators 
 for many virtues ease of management, cheapness of seeds, 
 freedom and persistency of flowering, and certainty of satis- 
 factory results if the conditions are favourable so that 
 if it were afflicted with many and varied enemies and 
 diseases the grower would scarcely be justified in grum- 
 bling to any serious extent. Happily, however, it enjoys 
 a freedom from really bad attacks, and, with perhaps one 
 exception, all the troubles which do cause anxiety are 
 such as can be combated without any substantial outlay of 
 money or time. Preventive measures are possible in all 
 instances, and where the necessity arises for the adoption 
 of remedies, then these are such as can be procured and 
 applied without any loss of time or inconvenience. Taking 
 the enemies first, there are, roughly, only four which are 
 generally troublesome, and to three of these attention has 
 been drawn in previous chapters. They are mice, birds, 
 and slugs ; the fourth is green fly. Let us briefly refer 
 to each. 
 
THE MOUSE PEST 71 
 
 There is very little doubt that in many gardens mice 
 are the worst pests of all, since, if they once set to work 
 upon the seeds, they will come in goodly numbers, and 
 the more of the palatable food they can find, the better 
 their appetites will become and the more damage they will 
 do. It is no uncommon thing, when precautionary measures 
 are not adopted, for practically the whole of the seeds sown 
 in pots or boxes in frames and greenhouses to be devoured ; 
 and this means not only loss of seeds, but, what is even 
 more annoying in the generality of instances, loss of time 
 in the production of blossoms. Out-of-doors, too, the 
 visitors will unerringly attack the best varieties, and leave 
 anything that is common or inferior either severely alone, 
 or until they have exhausted the good things of the earth, 
 and are compelled either to go hungry away afterwards or 
 partake of what still remains at their disposal. 
 
 Prevention, when the seeds are sown under glass, is 
 simplicity itself ; a square of glass placed over each pot 
 or box will keep the small marauders safely at bay. The 
 danger lies up to the stage of germination, and not beyond 
 it, and if we can protect the seeds, the plants, as far as 
 mice are concerned, are sure to go along all right. In 
 addition to the glass, traps of any convenient form and 
 make should be kept set, as it is desirable not only that the 
 mice should be stopped from attacking the seeds in the 
 boxes, but also from going abroad again and taking toll 
 
72 PRESENT-DAY GARDENING 
 
 of those that are in the ground out-of-doors. In gardens 
 where mice are numerous all seeds should be thoroughly 
 coated with red lead prior to sowing, as the mice do not 
 like this ; several traps ought always to be set in and near 
 their haunts ; and in case of necessity sharp cinders may 
 be freely mixed in the soil. This course is not, however, 
 altogether desirable, because, although they may do good 
 in the way of checking mice from devouring the seeds of 
 Sweet Peas, cinders are not invariably advantageous in the 
 culture of other crops ; and as the Sweet Peas are usually 
 planted on fresh quarters each season, they may become 
 something of a nuisance. Should it become a matter of 
 the first importance, owing to the depredations, then the 
 cinders must go in, since Sweet Peas are assumed here 
 to be the principal crop of the garden. 
 
 After the seedlings show through the surface of the 
 soil there will be two enemies awaiting the delectable 
 morsels, and these are slugs and birds. Of these the 
 slimy slug is indisputably the worse with which to deal. 
 Trapping with small heaps of brewers' grains or other 
 bait is good, but it will not catch all the depredators. 
 Hunting must be made a daily pastime, and should be 
 followed up with all the enthusiasm that such a worthy 
 cause deserves. Applications of salt are prompt in their 
 effects, and there is no fear that the slug that has been 
 completely covered with this will do any further harm 
 
PLATE VI 
 CLARA CURTIS 
 
SLUGS AND BIRDS 75 
 
 either among Sweet Peas or any other plants. Ridges of 
 lime placed down each side of a row or encircling a clump 
 are regarded as wonderfully good, and for the few hours 
 that lime so exposed remains alive, all well and good ; but 
 its virtues are not lasting, and the slugs are quite intelli- 
 gent enough to know when they can work freely in it. 
 If lime is relied upon, it must be scattered among the plants 
 at frequent intervals, and will then be found a useful deter- 
 rent ; the same may be said for soot, but this must not be 
 used in a fresh state or it will destroy quite as many plants 
 as the slugs themselves, and the remedy becomes as bad as 
 the disease. Another excellent method of attacking slugs 
 is to dress the soil, in strict accordance with the instructions 
 given by the manufacturers, with one of the several soil 
 fumigants that are now upon the market. Neither slugs, 
 nor any other pest that lurks in the ground, likes this treat- 
 ment, and provided that the instructions are rigidly observed, 
 the plants will not suffer from the applications ; on the 
 contrary, marked benefit can often be directly traced to 
 them, apart altogether from the fact that they destroy the 
 enemy. 
 
 Coming now to the birds, with their voracious appetites, 
 it may be said at once that prevention is the only cure. 
 If the young plants are left exposed, whether they are 
 growing in frames or the open ground, the birds will get 
 all the food they can from them. It has already been said 
 
76 PRESENT-DAY GARDENING 
 
 that the topping of the plants once will not materially affect 
 them, unless it be in a beneficial direction, but to allow 
 them to be repeatedly attacked is to court disaster. It is, 
 however, comparatively easy to prevent injury as far as the 
 young plants are concerned ; when it comes to keeping 
 sparrows from picking off the buds the story is a different 
 one, and the preventives are not as obvious. In regard to 
 seedlings, there are wire guards on the market which answer 
 admirably when placed over the lines ; or the cultivator may 
 safely rely upon home-made guards of wood at each end 
 of the rows from which strings or stout thread are closely 
 strung. 
 
 Birds should be kept from the plants in frames by 
 having a light framework of fine-meshed, galvanised wire 
 netting made the exact size of the light, and when the 
 latter is off, as it is frequently, the netting must be in use. 
 It must not be forgotten, even for half-an-hour, or much 
 injury may be done. The netting will not interfere with 
 the progress of the plants, since it does not prevent the 
 free admission and circulation of air, and it scarcely breaks 
 the rays of light. 
 
 The last enemy with which we have to deal is green fly. 
 When this pest becomes comfortably established on the plants 
 it will need all the grower's patience and perseverance to 
 exterminate it ; but it should never be allowed to settle 
 itself so firmly. If a close look-out is kept at all stages of 
 
GREEN FLY 77 
 
 growth, and every fly that is seen is promptly destroyed, 
 the trouble will be lessened materially. It multiplies with 
 extraordinary rapidity, and the descendants of one or two 
 pairs become a crowded city in a week. When the numbers 
 are considerable, dusting with tobacco powder or snuff, or 
 syringing with a solution of either tobacco or paraffin, will 
 do good ; but it is far better not to wait until these drastic 
 measures are necessary. 
 
 A useful solution of tobacco can be made by soaking 
 2 ounces of strong shag tobacco in one gallon of water. 
 To make a paraffin solution, boil 4 ounces each of soft soap 
 and quassia in separate vessels ; put the liquors together in 
 about a gallon and a half of water, place on the fire, and 
 when the whole lot is boiling furiously, remove the pot, put 
 in a wineglassful of paraffin, and stir vigorously ; the working 
 in of the oil when the water is boiling hard will go far to 
 ensure perfect amalgamation. All applications of either of 
 these washes are best made in the evening after the sun has 
 gone down, but this is not essential, provided that the mixing 
 is thorough and that no raw paraffin is floating about. The 
 syringe or sprayer used must be one capable of throwing 
 a fine film, not only because this is more economical, but 
 also because it is far more efficacious. Thrips occasionally 
 attack the points of the shoots, and must be destroyed by 
 hand picking. 
 
 The great scare in regard to diseases of Sweet Peas is 
 
78 PRESENT-DAY GARDENING 
 
 streak. What it really is, or whence it comes, no one has 
 any clear idea ; or if they have they are keeping the know- 
 ledge to themselves. Streak is not one half as prevalent as 
 the alarmists would have us believe. Directly a man finds 
 a plant yellowing a little at the base he decides that it is 
 streak, whereas it is far more likely to be ordinary Pea 
 mould, or even failure, for which no reason can be found, 
 but which is, generally speaking, more prevalent in old, 
 thoroughly cultivated garden soils which have been manured 
 year after year with natural manures and have gradually 
 become overstocked with humus. 
 
 There is undoubtedly a condition known as streak, but 
 so long as it remains in its present stage growers have no 
 cause to worry. It will destroy odd plants, but if these are 
 pulled up as soon as they are seen the grower will not suffer 
 very great loss. Those who do not understand the differ- 
 ence between streak, mould, or yellowing need not give 
 themselves a moment's anxiety in the matter. The thing 
 is to pull up and burn the plant in any case, for the simple 
 reason that the mould is difficult, and often impossible, to 
 cure ; the yellowing is not a disease in the strict sense of 
 the word, and cannot be cured ; while nothing being known 
 about streak, it is obviously impossible for the cultivator to 
 take any effectual remedial measures. 
 
 If the enemies and diseases which attack Sweet Peas 
 were as numerous and varied in character as those that pay 
 
STREAK AND FUNGUS MOULD 79 
 
 their unwelcome attentions to many other plants the trouble 
 might become a real one, but up to the present it is nothing. 
 Of course, the man who has mould, or yellowing, or who 
 suspects streak will adopt preventive measures, and the 
 most effectual is to change the position of the plants, putting 
 them as far away from the infested area as possible in the 
 following season. He will supplement this by generous 
 dressings of lime, spreading it on the surface to a depth of 
 half an inch or thereabouts, and after a week or ten days 
 pricking it into the ground. This will destroy the spores 
 of any fungi with which it may happen to come in contact, 
 and will at the same time sweeten and immensely improve 
 the fertility of the soil. The genuine streak, it may be of 
 interest to note, runs in clearly defined, dark lines up the 
 stems, but at a certain stage of mould the resemblance of 
 this disease is very close. 
 
CHAPTER XI 
 FIFTY STANDARD VARIETIES 
 
 THE increase in the number of varieties is such that there 
 are somewhere between 500 and 600 which are possibly 
 obtainable. Not a single grower knows all of these, 
 and probably not one of them desires that knowledge. 
 Hundreds have been superseded by later introductions of 
 superior merit, while among others the differences are so 
 slight, that only those who are especially desirous of seeing 
 them can find them ; the ordinary individual, even if he be a 
 whole-souled enthusiast, may have a dim idea that the two 
 similar flowers are not identical, but he cannot say definitely 
 where the difference is or of what it consists. 
 
 The raiser of new varieties finds many swans ; the grower 
 who purchases them finds many geese, and wretchedly poor 
 ones at that. The buyer blames the distributor for putting 
 inferior varieties upon the market ; the distributor blames 
 the buyer for insisting on getting a constant succession 
 of new names. It is probable that the purchaser is the 
 more to blame of the two, since he will not be contented 
 to grow the same varieties season after season, with an 
 
STANDARD VARIETIES 81 
 
 addition of two or three new ones each year, but must 
 have a dozen or more novelties to keep his keenness up to 
 concert pitch ; the raiser and distributor know that there is 
 the demand, and it is only human nature to try to provide 
 the supply. 
 
 All Sweet Pea growers would complain if the supply 
 of novelties ceased ; their introduction is desirable ; but 
 novelties must be either decidedly superior to, or totally 
 distinct from, any varieties already in commerce. Slight 
 improvements or variations which can only be seen under a 
 microscope are not wanted, and they will eventually do far 
 more harm to the flower than they will good, for the simple 
 reason that many amateurs will become tired of paying 
 high prices without receiving reasonable compensation. 
 
 The Court of Appeal will have to be the National Sweet 
 Pea Society, which must make itself so strong and so re- 
 liable that every one in the Sweet Pea world, no matter 
 whether he dwell in this country, or in any of the British 
 possessions over the seas, or in any foreign country, will 
 accept the Society's decision that this or that novelty from 
 this or that source is absolutely distinct, markedly superior, 
 and thoroughly fixed, and therefore worthy of purchase. 
 When the Society adopts such a policy, some people, 
 being dissatisfied, will threaten to withdraw their support, 
 and the thing will be to let them go. Directly the flood 
 of prosperity sets in it will continue to flow, and for 
 
82 PRESENT-DAY GARDENING 
 
 each one who falls out a score will fall in ; and later, the 
 malcontents will see that the work is to their interests 
 and will come back into the ranks. Any wavering on the 
 part of the Society from a clearly defined line of straight- 
 forward action will contribute to the commencement of its 
 downfall, and when this starts it will not be found easy to 
 stop it. The Society should live as well for the trade 
 grower and distributor as for the amateur, and if it serve 
 both well it will be fulfilling the task for which it was 
 established. Should any one who reads this book not 
 yet be a member of that Society, he ought to become 
 one at once, for he will find the modest fee an excellent 
 investment. 
 
 From the immense number of varieties now in com- 
 merce, it is no easy task to select as few as fifty and feel 
 able to affirm that these are the best that can be grown. 
 But the task must be attempted, since a complete catalogue, 
 although it may have a certain interest, cannot have a 
 practical value to the man who wants to start a collection, 
 for he would not know which are distinct and meritorious. 
 
 In the subjoined selections it may be well to state at 
 once that no variety is mentioned which was not in com- 
 merce in the spring of 1910, so that it is safe to assert that 
 all of them will be seen at the exhibitions of the National 
 Sweet Pea and other Societies in parts of the country. 
 The learner may utilise the list as suggestive, and then 
 
STANDARD VARIETIES 83 
 
 seek in the gardens of his friends and at the shows for 
 the varieties recommended, when he will find it a com- 
 paratively easy matter to choose those which especially 
 appeal to him in colour and form. 
 
 The colour classification of the National Sweet Pea 
 Society will be followed, as this will still further facilitate 
 the subsequent making of selections by individual growers. 
 The impression is steadily but surely growing that the 
 time has come when this scheme requires careful revision 
 and extension, but until this is done it must be accepted as 
 the standard of the Sweet Pea world. Unless it appears 
 to be essential, no descriptions will be appended to varieties ; 
 these can be procured from the catalogues either of the 
 Society or the seed merchants. 
 
 White. Etta Dyke. Nora Unwin. * Dorothy Eckford. 
 
 Crimson and Scarlet. King Edward Spencer (under one 
 of its several names). George Stark. Sunproof Crimson 
 (Dobbie's). * Queen Alexandra. 
 
 Rose and Carmine. John Ingman. Marjorie Willis. 
 
 Yellow and Buff. Clara Curtis. * Mrs. Collier. Para- 
 dise Ivory. 
 
 Blue. A.. }. Cook. * Lord Nelson. 
 
 Blush. Mrs. Hardcastle Sykes. 
 
 Cerise. * Chrissie Unwin. Coccinea Spencer (under 
 one or other name). 
 
 Pink. Countess Spencer. Audrey Crier. 
 
84 PRESENT-DAY GARDENING 
 
 Cream Pink. Constance Oliver. Mrs. Hugh Dickson. 
 
 Orange Shades. Helen Lewis. Maggie Stark. * St. 
 George. Up to the present both the beautiful Earl Spencer 
 and the glorious Nancy Perkin are classed in the orange 
 shades, but it does not quite meet the merits of the case, 
 since both are absolutely distinct from any other variety in 
 commerce. It is possible that there will be two strains of 
 Earl Spencer, one waved and the other plain ; the former 
 should be chosen and the latter regarded as untrue. 
 
 Lavender. Frank Dolby. Masterpiece. * Lady Grisell 
 Hamilton. Lavender George Herbert. 
 
 Violet and Purple. Rosie Adams. Mrs. Charles Mander. 
 
 * Duke of Westminster. 
 
 Magenta. Menie Christie. * George Gordon. 
 
 Mauve. The Marquis. * Mrs. Walter Wright. 
 
 Maroon and Bronze. * Black Knight. Black Knight 
 Spencer. * Dudley Lees. Prince of Asturias. 
 
 Picotee Edged. Evelyn Hemus. Elsie Herbert. 
 
 Striped and Flaked, Red and Rose. Aurora Spencer. 
 America Spencer. * Jessie Cuthbertson. 
 
 Striped and Flaked, Purple and Blue.* Prince Olaf. 
 
 * Marbled Blue. 
 
 Fancy. * Sybil Eckford. 
 
 Bicolor. Mrs. Andrew Ireland. Apple Blossom Spencer. 
 
 * Jeannie Gordon. 
 
 Marbled.* Helen Pierce. 
 
STANDARD VARIETIES 85 
 
 The order in which the names are given in each colour 
 is not necessarily that of merit. Those varieties marked 
 with an asterisk are plain, while all the others have more or 
 less waved standards and wings. It may be accepted that, 
 with one or two exceptions, all of these are quite distinct, 
 but those who desire to limit their collection to varieties 
 which are perfectly dissimilar, and to have a representative 
 of each colour group, might do worse than make a start 
 with the following sorts and improve upon it according to 
 their individual tastes : Etta Dyke, King Edward Spencer, 
 John Ingman, Clara Curtis, A. J. Cook, Mrs. Hardcastle 
 Sykes, Chrissie Unwin, Countess Spencer, Mrs. Hugh 
 Dickson, Helen Lewis, Asta Ohn, Menie Christie, Rosie 
 Adams, The Marquis, Black Knight, Evelyn Hemus, Aurora 
 Spencer, Prince Olaf, Sybil Eckford, Mrs. A. Ireland, and 
 Helen Pierce. Practically the whole of these have the 
 additional recommendation of almost complete fixity, so 
 that the grower may feel assured of growing the colours 
 which he anticipates from the descriptions. 
 
CHAPTER XII 
 IN THE LIBRARY 
 
 A FEW years ago there were no books wholly devoted to 
 the Sweet Pea, except those which were more in the form 
 of catalogues published by one of the great Calif ornian 
 seed-growers. But the institution of the National Sweet 
 Pea Society changed all that. 
 
 It is to the Society's credit that it was the first to 
 issue a book on the Sweet Pea ; this was the report of the 
 Bicentenary Celebration held at the Crystal Palace in 1899. 
 After a short interval the Society commenced to issue its 
 Annual, intended to foster a love of the flower, and to 
 widely distribute information in reference to cultural matters 
 and varieties. These issues were followed in rapid suc- 
 cession by others from private sources. For the complete 
 list that is given below we are mainly indebted to Mr. C. 
 Harman Payne's Florist's Bibliography. 
 
 The Report of the Sweet Pea Bicentenary. Published 
 by the National Sweet Pea Society, and now probably 
 unprocurable. 
 
 86 
 
IN THE LIBRARY 87 
 
 The Sweet Pea Annual, 1905, -6, -7, -8, -9, and -10. 
 Edited by Horace J. Wright and Charles H. Curtis, and 
 published by the Society. Free to members and affiliated 
 Societies. Issued to the public at 2s., post free. 
 
 Sweet Peas and their Cultivation. By Charles H. Curtis. 
 Published by W. H. & L. Collingridge. Price is. in paper 
 boards, and is. 6d. in cloth. 
 
 The Culture of Sweet Peas. By Richard Dean. Pub- 
 lished by the Agricultural and Horticultural Association. 
 Price one penny. 
 
 The Sweet Pea. One of the series of Horticultural 
 Handbooks issued by Hobbies. 
 
 How to Grow Sweet Peas. By Thomas Stevenson and 
 W. F. May. 
 
 All about Sweet Peas. By Robert Sydenham. Pub- 
 lished personally. Price 6d. 
 
 Sweet Peas and How to Grow Them. By Harry H. 
 Thomas. Published by Cassell & Co. Price is. in paper 
 boards, and is. 6d. in cloth. 
 
 A Second Account of Sweet Peas. By A. P. Wyman 
 and M. G. Kains. Bulletin 127 of the Cornell University, 
 Horticultural Division, Ithaca, N.J. 
 
 Culture and History of Winter Flowering Sweet Peas. 
 By Anthony C. Zvolanek. 
 
 Book about Sweet Peas. By Walter P. Wright. Pub- 
 lished by Headley Bros. Price 2s. and 2s. 6d. 
 
88 PRESENT-DAY GARDENING 
 
 The Book of the Sweet Pea. By D. B. Crane. Pub- 
 lished by John Lane. Price 2s. 6d. 
 
 Sweet Peas Up-to-Date. By G. W. Kern Published by 
 W. Atlee Burpee. U.S.A. 
 
 Les Pols de senteur. By G. D. Clark, Dover. Published 
 personally. 
 
CHAPTER XIII 
 CULTURE OF SWEET PEAS FOR EXHIBITION 
 
 BY THOMAS STEVENSON 
 
 IN considering the subject of Sweet Peas for exhibition, I 
 am led to recall the circumstances of ten years ago. At 
 that time there certainly were classes for Peas at some of 
 the leading shows, but the exhibitors did not treat the 
 matter very seriously ; nor was it difficult to win prizes. 
 Even to-day the prizes are never very high, nor are there 
 large numbers of classes, but Sweet Pea growers are so 
 enthusiastic that the classes are well filled and Sweet Peas 
 occupy at least one-third of the space devoted to cut flowers, 
 and far outclass any other individual flower, not excepting 
 the Rose. All the time the exhibition is open an enthu- 
 siastic crowd may be seen round the exhibits, discuss- 
 ing the merits of each variety. This is not all, for when 
 travelling to or from the city by tram, train, or 'bus, one 
 can again hear the merits of every variety discussed, not by 
 one, but by scores of men, who seem to have only one end 
 in view, namely, the exhibiting of Peas. It may not be in 
 large, open competitions, but just a friendly affair arranged 
 
9 o PRESENT-DAY GARDENING 
 
 by members of one firm, or possibly the clerks in one office ; 
 there are scores of these competitions held in London 
 alone. It is this class of exhibitor that the present chapter 
 may benefit more than any other, for such growers are 
 always anxious to improve their knowledge whereby they 
 can gain a point or two at future exhibitions. 
 
 In order to be successful in exhibiting Sweet Peas, as in 
 all other things, a certain amount of time and thought is 
 absolutely necessary, and nothing from start to finish must be 
 performed in a perfunctory manner. Method, hard work, 
 and attention to the smallest detail must be practised by every 
 one who would attempt to follow in the footsteps of such 
 men as Jones, Malcolm, Cole, Hopkins, and Usher. These 
 giants would tell you that their plants are given daily, yes 
 hourly, attention from the day the seeds are sown to the time 
 the haulm is pulled up and burnt after harvesting the seeds. 
 
 Seed Sowing. There are various dates and methods 
 recommended for sowing the seed of Sweet Peas, some 
 favouring one time and some another. Many exhibitors 
 sow out-of-doors in autumn, and in gardens where the 
 soil is of a light nature and exceptionally well drained 
 this method succeeds admirably. Others sow in pots in 
 autumn, and winter the young plants in cold frames ; while 
 still others sow the seeds in spring, either in pots or in the 
 open ground. By each method success may be obtained. 
 Before deciding which system is best to adopt there are 
 
PLATE VII 
 SUNPROOF CRIMSON 
 
SEED SOWING 93 
 
 many things to be taken into consideration, such as the 
 locality, whether in the northern or southern counties ; 
 whether the soil is light and warm, or cold and heavy ; and 
 lastly, what are the dates when the flowers will be required 
 to be at their best. 
 
 From observations made during a number of years on 
 light and heavy soils in both dry and wet seasons, I have 
 come to the conclusion that sowing in pots in autumn is 
 by far the best system ; but I would not go as far as to 
 suggest that cultivators should have all their eggs in one 
 basket, as it were, but rather that they should try the two 
 systems, sowing in pots in autumn and sowing in pots in 
 spring. At the same time I have no doubt in my own 
 mind as to which system will give the largest and best- 
 coloured flowers, with good stems, and which plants will 
 continue to bloom for the greatest length of time. Even in 
 1909, which was anything but an ideal season, the autumn- 
 sown plants commenced blooming early, giving flowers 
 larger, stronger, and better able to withstand ungenial 
 weather than those sown in the spring, and they flowered 
 freely until the end of September. Plants raised in autumn 
 and kept hardy all the winter make a greater proportion of 
 roots than top growth. The roots are very hardy, and 
 when planted out early in April quickly take hold of the 
 soil and develop young roots, which are not by any means 
 so tender and susceptible to cold as the softer roots of 
 
94 PRESENT-DAY GARDENING 
 
 spring-sown plants, so that growth from the outset is more 
 vigorous and hardy. For autumn sowing in pots, seeds 
 must be obtained early from the seedsmen, as they should 
 be sown by the middle of October. A fairly light com- 
 post should be prepared consisting of loam and leaf-mould, 
 and a little sand to keep it porous ; the addition of bone 
 meal, say a 5 -inch potful to a wheelbarrow load of the 
 compost, will not be detrimental, though it is not really 
 necessary. The one aim should be to keep the plants as 
 sturdy as possible. Pots 5 inches or 6 inches in diameter 
 are the best to use, and they should be filled to within 
 i inches of the rim with the compost, pressing it only 
 moderately firm. Five or six seeds may be put round the 
 sides of the 5-inch pot, while eight or nine may be put 
 in a 6-inch pot. Some of the larger and harder seeded 
 varieties should be chipped before sowing with the point of 
 a knife (be careful not to injure the interior), to induce 
 them to germinate quickly. I have found seeds of Elsie 
 Herbert quite hard and sound after being sown for two or 
 three months, and which afterwards pushed through the soil 
 in a very few days after having a little of the hard skin 
 removed. Cover the seed over with soil, and place the 
 pots in a cold frame, after which a thorough soaking of 
 water must be applied. Place the lights on the frame, 
 and keep it moderately close until the young plants appear 
 through the soil, when air must be given freely, and as the 
 
SPRING SOWING 95 
 
 plants get harder the lights may be removed entirely on fine 
 days, but not before taking the precaution to put an old 
 fruit net over the frame, or there will be trouble with the 
 birds. I ought to have said that at the time of sowing the 
 seeds a few small pieces of bread-and-butter should be 
 coated with phosphorus paste and placed about among the 
 pots to poison mice that may be present. Prevention is 
 better than cure in such cases. After the plants are nicely 
 up and in leaf the lights should only be put on in the event 
 of very wet or frosty weather. In cases of prolonged frost 
 or snow it will be wise to cover the frames with mats, but 
 do not coddle the plants too much ; take the mats off every 
 day and admit air, if only for an hour or two. A little 
 frost will not hurt the plants when they are moderately 
 dry at the root ; therefore the necessary watering should 
 be done as much as possible when the weather is mild. 
 
 Spring sowing in pots should be done in February, and 
 as February is an unusually cold month it will be best to 
 place the pots on a shelf in a cool house until the plants 
 are through the soil, when they may be taken to a cold 
 frame and treated similarly to the autumn-sown plants, 
 adopting the same precautions against mice, slugs, birds, 
 and frost. 
 
 Where a fairly large quantity of plants is required, say 
 from three to four dozen of one variety, boxes may be 
 employed in place of pots, and they can be handled with 
 
96 PRESENT-DAY GARDENING 
 
 greater convenience. The boxes should be from 4 to 5 
 inches deep, and the seeds should be placed about 2 inches 
 apart, covering them with | inch of soil. They will germinate 
 even quicker in boxes than in pots, owing, no doubt, to the 
 greater amount of soil and a more equal degree of moisture. 
 
 When sowing in pots avoid using new pots, for on 
 one or two occasions I have found when the young roots 
 have come in contact with the sides they have been 
 killed outright (possibly through something that has been 
 used in the manufacture of the pots). This was even after 
 the pots had been soaked for an hour or two in a tank of 
 water before using them. 
 
 Sowing Out-of-doors in Autumn. Only in very favoured 
 localities can this method be practised with any degree of 
 success for exhibition purposes, but where the soil is light 
 and the atmosphere generally fairly dry and free from 
 fog, autumn sowings out-of-doors are usually productive 
 of early flowers. I have not found them quite as early 
 as spring-sown plants indeed they are sometimes very 
 much later in blooming than those planted out from pots, 
 notwithstanding the fact that the soil and situation are all 
 that could be desired for the purpose. Another point worth 
 consideration is the amount of seed necessary for outdoor 
 sowing, for one must make an allowance of 50 per cent, at 
 the least for the ravages of birds, slugs, mice, and frost. I 
 cannot recommend the adoption of this method except in 
 
SOWING IN AUTUMN 97 
 
 cases where the conditions are very favourable ; however, 
 those who wish to try it should have the ground prepared 
 early in September (as will be advised later), so as to sow 
 the seeds at the beginning of October. Many failures 
 occur through the seeds being sown too early, for the 
 plants then get so tall that they are easily injured by frost. 
 Two drills should be drawn from 2 to 3 inches deep, 
 and about i foot asunder, placing the seed, which must 
 be coated with red lead, about 2 inches apart in the drills, 
 and covering it carefully with fine soil ; if this is of a very 
 light nature it may be trodden lightly over. 
 
 As soon as the young plants appear through the ground 
 they must be dusted over with soot to ward off slugs, and 
 this must be done frequently right through the winter. 
 Wire guards must be put over them to keep off birds ; or 
 benders with fish-netting will answer quite as well. 
 
 A keen look-out must be kept for mice, or they will 
 eat the young plants off close to the ground. Pieces 
 of bread covered with phosphorus paste should be put 
 frequently here and there along the rows. Trapping may 
 also be employed, and I have found nothing better than 
 the old figure 4 trap in conjunction with two slates. 
 
 When possible the soil must be kept lightly stirred with 
 a small hand-hoe, taking care to have the surface quite fine, 
 as the coarser the soil round the plants, the more harbour 
 there is for slugs. 
 
98 PRESENT-DAY GARDENING 
 
 As soon as the plants begin to grow in the spring 
 they will require staking, but this matter will be treated 
 of later. 
 
 Spring Sowing Out-of-doors. This is similar to autumn 
 sowing, and may be done in light soils during February, 
 but, generally speaking, early in March is the better time. 
 There is then not much fear of losses by frost, the only 
 critical time being when the seedling is just pushing out 
 its young shoots ; then, if the conditions are wet and a 
 severe frost sets in, they are apt to get frozen, but once 
 they pass through the ground any ordinary frost will not 
 injure them in the least. The general instructions given 
 for the autumn sowing apply equally well to this sowing. 
 I have never seen Peas sown out-of-doors, even in spring, 
 grow so strongly or give such good results as those sown 
 indoors and planted out. 
 
 Preparation of the Ground. This work is most essen- 
 tial in the successful cultivation of Sweet Peas, for nothing 
 that can be done afterwards will compensate for neglect in 
 this matter. A few extra hours' work, or an extra load of 
 manure, will be more than repaid by the better results. 
 
 In choosing a position for growing exhibition Peas, 
 endeavour to secure a piece of ground that is fairly exposed 
 and which has not grown any leguminous plants for a 
 year or two. If it is sheltered on one or two sides from 
 the cold winds, then so much the better ; and a little shade 
 
 
PREPARATION OF GROUND 99 
 
 at some period of the day may not hurt them ; but the 
 ground must not be overhung by large trees, or it will 
 be found that not only will the tops shade the Peas too 
 much, but the tree roots will rob the soil of nourishment 
 required by the Peas. For autumn sowing the ground 
 must be trenched early in September, but for those Peas 
 raised in pots for planting out in the spring it need not 
 be trenched until later. In fairly light soils any time after 
 November will do, as a little consolidation afterwards will 
 not hurt ; but for heavy, retentive soils, which during rains 
 are apt to run together again, the months of January and 
 February provide the best time. The trenching should 
 be done at least three spits deep, and when the subsoil 
 is heavy and close, plenty of opening material, such as 
 leaves, sweepings from the flower-garden, wood-ashes, and 
 old lime rubble, may be worked in. Do not put the 
 materials in layers, but incorporate them with the soil. 
 In the bottom and second spit plenty of good, rich 
 manure should be utilised. Manure from the cow-yard or 
 bullock pens is very good, or, if it could be procured from 
 a butcher who kills his own cattle and throws the blood 
 over the manure heap, this will be better still, and will not 
 need to be used in quite such large quantities. Failing 
 these, however, ordinary stable manure will answer admir- 
 ably ; but neither must be left in layers in the trench, for 
 once the roots get into large quantities of it they will stay 
 
ioo PRESENT-DAY GARDENING 
 
 there, instead of going further afield. Then the growth 
 will be sappy, and will fail just at a critical time, and we 
 shall hear of another bad attack of streak, or some such 
 disease. Neither must this strong manure be brought 
 nearer than one foot to the surface of the soil. In the 
 top spit a little bone-meal, soot, and wood ashes may be 
 worked, and during the operation all the soil must be 
 thoroughly well broken up with the spade or fork, not 
 leaving it in large lumps, as the finer the soil the more 
 likely are the roots to ramify in it ; and in this free root 
 action lies the great secret of success. 
 
 It is a practice with some people when trenching to 
 bring the bottom spit to the top, and when the soil has 
 been trenched a number of times it may answer well ; but 
 if the subsoil is very heavy and clayey it is best to leave it 
 underneath, and put plenty of leaves and other opening 
 material with it for a year or two, when it will be in a better 
 condition for sowing or planting. Generally speaking, after 
 skimming the surface, and putting this in the bottom of the 
 trench, it is better to keep the top spit on the top, although 
 this will cause a little more labour when trenching. 
 
 As the trenching operation proceeds, apply a good 
 sprinkling of lime over the surface ; this will tend to sweeten 
 the soil, as well as make it more workable. On very heavy 
 soil ridging may be done even after trenching, thus exposing 
 a large amount of soil to the action of the weather. When 
 
PLANTING EXHIBITION PEAS 101 
 
 the time comes for planting, these ridges, broken down, will 
 provide a good amount of dry soil for planting in or for 
 sowing seeds, whichever is wished. 
 
 Planting. If the young plants have been hardened 
 off, and the soil is in a proper workable condition, the 
 autumn-sown plants may be put out any time after the 
 middle of March, and the spring-sown ones as soon after 
 as possible. Make quite sure first that the plants are hard 
 in the stem by exposing them to plenty of air. A day or 
 two before planting, the surface of the soil should be lightly 
 forked over and a little superphosphate worked into it. 
 
 For exhibition purposes Sweet Peas ought to be planted 
 in rows, and if these extend from east to west those varieties 
 that require shading will only need it on one side of the 
 row. When planting, endeavour to put all such varieties as 
 near together as possible. For economy of space planting 
 should be done in double rows, i foot apart, allowing 
 about i foot from plant to plant ; and if 6 feet can be 
 allowed from centre to centre of each pair of rows this will 
 be ample, but if the cultivator is pushed for space a distance 
 of 5 feet will suffice. Shake out each plant individually, 
 taking care not to damage the roots ; make a good hole, 
 and spread the roots out carefully ; press the soil well around 
 them, and be particularly careful around the collar of the 
 plant. Next give a thorough sprinkling of soot. It will 
 be found that the autumn-sown plants will require some 
 
io2 PRESENT-DAY GARDENING 
 
 support immediately after planting ; small twigs of birch 
 placed round each plant will keep them from toppling 
 about, and shelter them somewhat from the wind. 
 
 Spring-sown plants will naturally be somewhat shorter 
 than the others, and may not require staking until two or 
 three weeks have elapsed ; but if sticks or twigs are at hand 
 it is just as well to do them right away, and it will save 
 treading the ground over twice. If the plants have been 
 properly hardened previous to planting there is not the 
 slightest fear of injury by frost, as I have known instances 
 of from 15 to 20 of frost the night after planting, and 
 still the plants have not suffered ; the worst injury is not 
 caused by cold, but by wet weather and easterly winds. 
 After placing the short stakes, fork the ground over lightly 
 between the rows, and spread an old fish-net over the 
 whole patch ; this will protect the plants from birds and 
 the wind. 
 
 If planting in clumps is preferred, each clump, of about 
 five or six plants, should not be less than 4 feet apart each 
 way, to allow plenty of room for staking and for getting 
 about among them. Other cultural conditions will be 
 exactly the same as for plants in rows. 
 
 When the planting is done there will not be much else 
 needing attention for some little time, but strict observa- 
 tions must be maintained, and applications of soot made to 
 keep slugs from injuring the plants. Wireworm may cause 
 
PLATE VIII 
 MASTERPIECE 
 
STAKING 105 
 
 a plant or two to die, and vacancies of this kind should 
 be made good, but not before the enemy has been found 
 and killed. 
 
 Staking. When the plants are from 9 inches to i foot 
 high staking should be done, and this is a task that necessi- 
 tates some little trouble. A few years ago one just staked 
 Sweet Peas as an ordinary row of culinary Peas, but now 
 that more trouble is taken in thinning the bine or haulm, 
 staking has to be done accordingly. I know no better 
 method than putting a strong pole at the end of each row, 
 with one in the centre if a long row, with cross-pieces, one 
 about 3 feet up and the other 7 to 8 feet. To these cross- 
 pieces strain a wire from end to end, and then use long 
 hazel stakes, inclining them towards the wires, and placing 
 a tie here and there to make them tidy and flat. By 
 inclining the tops of the stakes inwards, and training the 
 plants on the outside of these, all the flowers will develop 
 freely, and not come deformed, as many of them do, if 
 allowed to grow up anyhow between the stakes. This 
 method entails much extra labour, but it results in the 
 flowers having good, strong, and straight stems, which 
 are easy of arrangement when they are brought to the 
 exhibition. 
 
 For supporting clumps it is a good plan to make a 
 strong wire hoop, or a twisted hazel will do, any size that 
 is required. To this the tops of the stakes can be tied, 
 
io6 PRESENT-DAY GARDENING 
 
 and it will keep them firm and prevent them being blown 
 about by strong winds. 
 
 Thinning. It will be found that autumn-sown plants 
 will break out pretty freely from the base, quite close to the 
 ground, and if the centre shoot does not appear to be 
 growing away kindly, cut this out, and take up two or three 
 of these basal shoots, but do not on any account overcrowd 
 them. When they are between 18 inches and 2 feet high, 
 bring the shoots to the outside of the stakes as advised, and 
 give a tie here and there to keep them in position. This 
 also applies to the spring-sown plants, except that the main 
 shoot in this case is sure to grow away freely, and it is 
 only necessary to supplement these according to the space 
 to be filled. One shoot every 4 or 6 inches is quite close 
 enough. As the plants make growth, keep the ground 
 hoed and apply soot at least every fortnight ; this will 
 stimulate the plants as well as protect them. Beyond 
 the shoots mentioned, keep all side growths pinched out 
 and tie the leaders as often as necessary ; but if good, 
 bushy, hazel sticks are used the tendrils will lay hold 
 of them well, so that the tying will not be a very formid- 
 able task. 
 
 Mulching, Feeding, and Watering. The practice of 
 mulching Sweet Peas heavily with strong manure as soon as 
 they are staked is not to be recommended. At the time of 
 staking a sprinkling of well-decayed manure or leaf-mould 
 
MULCHING REQUIRES CARE 107 
 
 may be given between the two lots of plants forming the 
 rows, also for about 6 inches on either side, but beyond 
 this I do not believe in it unless there is very protracted 
 dry weather. Hoeing has effects quite as good ; it keeps 
 the plants steadier, and does not tend to make them sappy, 
 as is the case with a heavy mulch. In heavy soils it takes 
 a long time for the sun to thoroughly warm the ground, and 
 unless it is thoroughly warm, good-quality Peas cannot be 
 obtained from it. Therefore do not mulch the rows until 
 flowering has well commenced and there is hot, dry weather. 
 On lighter soils mulching may be done earlier, but on 
 either class of soil choose moss litter or a mulch of light 
 manure, such as fairly fresh horse-droppings mixed with 
 leaf -soil, rather than heavier material. This mulch can be 
 hoed over in much the same way as the soil, but after it has 
 been on some time and the plants are doing well, roots will 
 be found running very freely among the manure. The 
 hoeing must then cease, and a little more material may be 
 added, but do not on any account use short grass-mowings 
 except in very small quantities, for in wet weather they 
 form a slimy mass and hinder the air from getting to 
 the roots. 
 
 Sweet Peas are gross feeders, but if the soil is thoroughly 
 well tilled and manured they do not like too much manure 
 afterwards, for if the roots can find plenty of food in their 
 journey downwards the plants will keep very strong for some 
 
io8 PRESENT-DAY GARDENING 
 
 time after they have commenced to bloom. If, however, 
 they require feeding, give them farm-yard liquid manure 
 about once a week, alternated with waterings of clear water, 
 this latter only in the event of dry weather. Do not use 
 artificial manures as a regular thing, but rather rely on them 
 to give a little extra stimulus just previous to a show, and 
 one or two waterings will generally suffice. Nitrate of soda, 
 nitrate of potash, and sulphate of ammonia can each be 
 relied on to give an extra fillip to the plants, provided that 
 the ground has been properly manured before planting. 
 Either of these should be used two or three weeks before 
 a show, and if the weather is wet a slight sprinkling may 
 be given to the ground on each side of the rows, but if 
 dry it is as well to use it in the water at the rate of } Ib. 
 to 50 gallons of water. 
 
 On dry, porous soils, after the plants are well in bloom, 
 they will appreciate any quantity of water, and much more 
 manure than on heavy ground. On heavy land great care 
 must be exercised, for an extra dose of either manure or 
 water will tend to make the buds drop, and the blooms 
 that do open will be thin and of a poor colour. There- 
 fore, in either feeding or watering, try to be guided by 
 the requirements of the plants, and err rather on the 
 under side than the reverse. 
 
 Preparing: and Cutting the Blooms. Many people 
 remove all bloom buds as they appear until about a fortnight 
 
BLOOMS FOR EXHIBITION 109 
 
 or so before the exhibition. This may be wise, but I hardly 
 think so, particularly if the plants are in vigorous health, 
 for good colour and refinement in the flower are desirable 
 qualities ; extra coarse stems, with the blooms straggling 
 here and there at varying distances apart, are not the only, 
 or, indeed, the best qualities. By allowing the plants to 
 bloom, and cutting the spikes when the first flower is open, 
 it will not unduly exhaust the plant, but it will prevent 
 coarseness of flower and the tendency of the colour to 
 run and streak ; the stems also become firmer and have 
 not the same tendency to hang their heads when set up 
 in a warm tent. 
 
 Unfortunately, there are a few varieties that cannot 
 withstand the sun, such, for instance, as the orange-shaded 
 flowers and one or two of the crimson and scarlet varieties ; 
 but, nevertheless, they do not require much shade. I have 
 seen various things tried for shading purposes, but nothing 
 answers so well as old fish-nets, three or four thicknesses, and 
 placed well away from the plants. If this is put on three 
 clear days before the show it will prove quite sufficient, but 
 it must be removed again when not required, though this 
 is really not so imperative as when tiffany is used ; this 
 latter material excludes much air as well as- light, and on 
 really hot days the blooms will scald from want of air as 
 badly as they would burn by the sun. 
 
 In cutting flowers for the show the exhibitor must be 
 
no PRESENT-DAY GARDENING 
 
 guided somewhat by the prevailing weather conditions, but, 
 generally speaking, they should be placed in water for five 
 or six hours before being packed for travelling. If the 
 weather is dry, try to cut the flowers on the evening before 
 the show, but not after dew has commenced to fall. Place 
 them in water in a dry, airy shed, and give the blooms plenty 
 of air space between them. If wet weather prevails, then cut 
 the flowers several hours earlier, and place them in vases 
 or jars in a house where there is just a trifle of heat, giving 
 plenty of air. They will be found to dry fairly quickly if 
 treated in this manner, and, packed carefully, I have seen 
 them come up fresh and unmarked after twenty hours in 
 the hampers. 
 
 Packing for Transmission to Show. Many methods 
 are employed for carrying the flowers, but flat hampers 
 about 5 inches deep are far and away the best. They 
 hold one layer of bunches only, so there is no danger of 
 crushing ; neither is there much danger of the flowers spoil- 
 ing through moisture accumulating as it does in boxes. 
 If the weather is very hot and dry, line the basket with 
 waxed paper this prevents too much evaporation ; and if 
 the blooms are wet and the weather damp, then use very 
 soft tissue-paper, and this will absorb a fair amount of the 
 moisture. Immediately on arriving at the show, endeavour 
 to get the flowers unpacked and placed in water. If this 
 can be done four or five hours before judging commences, 
 
SHOWING THE FLOWERS m 
 
 the blooms will have every opportunity of looking their 
 best. If they have been cut fairly young they will grow 
 considerably after being put in water. 
 
 Setting up the Flowers. It is assumed that more 
 blooms will be taken to the show than are actually required ; 
 but do not overdo this. Choose the cleanest sprays with 
 at least three flowers on a stem, and endeavour to place 
 each bloom so that it stands quite apart from its neighbour ; 
 a crowded vase generally gives the judge an impression 
 that there is something to hide. 
 
 In arranging the vases on the table, try to give each 
 row a fall of about 6 inches from the one behind it, and 
 place the colours nearest together that form the most 
 pleasing combinations, not relying too much on harsh 
 contrasts, but at all times endeavouring to get as many 
 distinct shades into the collection as possible. 
 
 See that each vase is correctly and legibly named, and 
 make a point of carefully looking over them to see that no 
 stray bloom has crept into a vase, or disqualification will 
 result. In the event of your exhibit not obtaining the 
 award looked for, do not forget that the judges have not 
 the biassed view of things you are likely to have ; they 
 invariably do their best. 
 
 Varieties for Exhibition. Do not grow too many 
 varieties, and do not actually depend on a new variety for 
 exhibition until you have tried a clump or two to satisfy 
 
ii2 PRESENT-DAY GARDENING 
 
 yourself as to its merits and as to the percentage of rogues 
 it is likely to contain. 
 
 A few sorts that can be thoroughly recommended as the 
 very best in their colours are : 
 
 Nora Unwin and Etta Dyke, Sunproof Crimson (Dobbie) 
 and King Edward Spencer, John Ingman and Marjorie 
 Willis, Clara Curtis and Paradise Ivory, Kathleen M 'Go wan 
 and Zephyr, Mr. Hardcastle Sykes, Countess Spencer and 
 Audrey Crier ; Mrs. Henry Bell and Constance Oliver, 
 Helen Lewis and Maggie Stark, Rosie Adams, Frank Dolby, 
 and Masterpiece, Lavender George Herbert, Menie Christie, 
 America Spencer, Evelyn Hemus, Elsie Herbert, Prince 
 of Asturias, Black Knight Spencer, The Marquis and Mrs. 
 Andrew Ireland. 
 
 A few new ones that ought to be tried as soon as they 
 are procurable are Florence Wright, Holmes's Sunproof 
 Crimson, Rosabel, Charles Foster, Syeira Lee, Edrom 
 Beauty, Earl Spencer, Nancy Perkin, Silas Cole, Mrs. 
 W. J. Unwin and A. Unwin. 
 
CHAPTER XIV 
 A WORD OR TWO TO JUDGES 
 
 BEFORE undertaking the onerous duties connected with 
 judging, be quite sure you have an intimate knowledge of 
 the varieties, so as to be able to discriminate between two 
 or more varieties that are nearly alike. Endeavour to see 
 if there are any of these mixed together in one vase ; then 
 judge the different vases on their merits, and do not be biassed 
 in favour of or against any particular variety. Sweet Peas of 
 good colour, form of flower, with fair length of stem, should 
 be placed before flowers that are coarse and of poor colour. 
 Crowding in the vases should be rigidly discouraged, for 
 where this occurs there are usually poor blooms that re- 
 quire hiding possibly stems with only two flowers on each. 
 Where two or more collections are very nearly equal, pre- 
 ference should be given to an exhibit that contains the largest 
 number of distinct colours, as apart from different shades 
 of one colour. In cases where collections, for some cause 
 or another, have to be disqualified, do not hesitate to put on 
 the card why such a course has been adopted ; it will teach 
 the exhibitor what to avoid in the future. 
 
 "3 H 
 
INDEX 
 
 BASIC slag, 37 
 
 Birds, 72, 75 
 
 Bush varieties of Sweet Peas, 68 
 
 CLUMPS, planting in, 65 
 Concentrated fertilisers, 37 
 
 basic slag, 37 
 
 kainit, 37 
 
 nitrate of soda, 38 
 
 sulphate of ammonia, 38 
 
 sulphate of potash, 38 
 
 superphosphate of lime, 38 
 Culture, for exhibition, 89 
 
 for general purposes, 22 
 Cupid varieties, 68 
 Cutting back plants which 
 flowered, 59 
 
 have 
 
 DECORATIONS, Sweet Peas for, 66 
 Diseases. See Enemies and diseases 
 
 EARLY varieties, 6 
 Enemies and diseases, 70 
 
 birds, 72, 75 
 
 green fly, 76 
 
 mice, 71 
 
 mould, 78 
 
 slugs, 72 
 
 streak, 78 
 
 yellowing, 78 
 Exhibition culture, 89 
 
 a word to judges, 113 
 
 feeding, 108 
 
 mulching, 106 
 
 packing, no 
 
 planting, 101 
 in clumps, 102 
 in rows, 101 
 
 preparing and cutting the blooms, 108 
 
 preparing soil, 98 
 
 seed sowing, 90 
 
 indoors in autumn, 94 
 
 Exhibition culture (seed sowing) 
 indoors in spring, 96 
 outdoors in autumn, 95 
 outdoors in spring, 98 
 setting up the flowers, 1 1 1 
 shading, 108 
 staking, 105 
 thinning, 106 
 varieties, select, 1 1 1 
 watering the plants, 108 
 
 GARDEN, Sweet Peas for the, 64 
 General culture, 22 
 
 essentials to success, 23 
 Glass, Sweet Peas under, 61 
 Green fly, 76 
 Groups, the three great, 1 1 
 
 old form, II 
 
 Spencer form, 12 
 
 Unwin form, 17 
 
 HISTORY, 4 
 Bauhinus, Johannes, 5 
 Burmannis, Joannis, 5 
 Carter & Co., 6 
 Cattell, Mr., 7 
 Cole, Silas, 9 
 Cupani, the monk, 4 
 Dicks, S.B., 5 
 Eckford, Henry, 7 
 Hurst & Son, 7 
 Laxton, Thomas, 7 
 Mason, Mr., 6 
 Morrison, Robert, 5 
 Noble, Cooper & Bolton, 7 
 Ray, John, 5 
 Sutton & Sons, 7 
 Sydenham, Robert, 9 
 Uvedale, Dr., 4 
 
 INTRODUCTION, i 
 JUDGES, A Word to, 113 
 
no 
 
 INDEX 
 
 KAINIT, 37 
 
 LATHYRUS, distoplatyphyllos, hirsutis, 
 mollis, magno et peramseno, flore 
 odoratissimo, purpureo, 4 
 major e Sicilise, 5 
 Zeylanicus, 5 
 Library, In the, 86 
 Liquid manure, 56 
 
 MANURING, 34 
 
 basic slag, 37 
 
 concentrated fertilisers, 37 
 
 intelligence in application, 34 
 
 kainit, 37 
 
 light soil, 36 
 
 methods of, 35 
 
 natural manures, 34 
 
 night soil, 35 
 
 nitrate of soda, 38 
 
 strong soil, 35 
 
 sulphate of ammonia, 38 
 
 sulphate of potash, 38 
 
 superphosphate of lime, 38 
 Mice, 71 
 Mould, 78 
 Mulching, 59 
 
 NIGHT soil, 35 
 Nitrate of soda, 38 
 Nitro-culture, 60 
 
 PARAFFIN wash, 77 
 Planting out, 51 
 
 SEED sowing, 39 
 autumn, 40 
 
 birds, protection from, 43 
 chipping the seeds, 46 
 depth of sowing, 47 
 distances between lines, 49 
 distances in lines, 48 
 in drills, 47 
 
 in shallow trenches, 47 
 large versus small pots, 40 
 mice, protection from, 43 
 
 Seed sowing- 
 small, shrivelled seeds, 45 
 
 soil for, 45 
 
 split seeds, 46 
 
 spring-sowing, 43 
 
 white seeds, 45 
 Slugs, 72 
 Smooth form, II 
 Soil for, 24 
 
 depth, 24 
 
 digging, 24 
 
 heavy, 29 
 
 light, 31 
 
 preparation, 24 
 
 time of working, 29 
 
 trenching, 27 
 Spencer form, 12 
 Streak, 78 
 
 Sulphate of ammonia, 38 
 Sulphate of potash, 38 
 Superphosphate of lime, 38 
 Supporting the plants, 49 
 
 sticks, 50 
 
 tying, 50 
 
 wire, 50 
 
 TELEMLY varieties, 62 
 Tobacco water, 77 
 
 UNDER glass culture, 61 
 Unwin form, 17 
 
 VARIETIES, making, 19 
 amateurs' successes in, 20 
 fifty standard, o 
 Mendelian laws, 20 
 new colours wanted, 19 
 Telemly, 62 
 winter-flowering, 62 
 
 WATERING and feeding, 5 5 
 Winter-flowering Sweet Peas, 62 
 
 YELLOWING, disease known as, 78 
 
 Printed by BALLANTYNE, HANSON 6- Co. 
 Edinburgh & London 
 
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