fm a^8!g^D CC^SSP:^D<.'>CI^^8^D ^iiifiili iiiig OF THE CityahbValley or Mexico With Excursions to Toiuca, Tula, Pachuca, Puebla, /rj Cuernavaca, etc. and TWO MAPS BY EMIT. RIEI3EL. ;^ Member of various Scientific Societies and Mexican L ,/> Coirespoudeiit of American and German Newspapers. I \ CITY OF^MEXICO. -(:n:) I. EPSTEIN. Publisher and Editor of the « Germania ». 1892. • a^gSgSgSD<-x£>cT^ggiS^S) •^<5> cr^g^g^D D.S.Spaulilin9Suc- -IJ^ £;: ^ sQ^fs ^r CALLE DE CADENA, N 23. P. O. Box 274. -MEXICO CITY - CURIOSITY STORE. Photographic views. Feather work. Rag Figures. Mexican Marble. Carved Canes. Straw Pictures. Drawn work. Perforated coins. Souvenir album. Souvenir Spoons. Bull fight fans. Antique fans. Filigree silver work. Opals. Idols. Antiquities. STATIONARY. JEWELRY. EXPOETIEG GOODS. \ i ^gRACTICAL -guiDE of the CITY AND VALLEY OF MEXICO i^AU riglits reserved-^ Copyright 1891, by the Author. Queda debid-inieiite asegurada, con arreglo a la ley, la propiedad literaria de la presente obra. OF THE City aid Ialley of Mexioo With Excursions to Toluca, Tula, Pachuca, Tuebla, Cuernavaca, etc, and TWO MAPS BY Member of various Scientific Societies and Mexican Correspondent of American and German Newspapers. CITY OF MEXICO. I. EPSTEIN. Publisher and Editor of the with heavy hearts and even doubted whether they should meet again. Whoever dared as far as the adjoining country was regarded as a traveled man and he who had once Crossed the ocean as a wonder. Nobody ever thought of traveling for pleasure or recreation, for the costs were very great and the accommodations very poor. Now traveling is the greatest medium of cultivation of present times. It is no longer a luxury and only for the rich — it is in a certain sense a necessity for everyone. Travel is the most practical method of education, the greatest panacea, the most successful business-agency and the most enviable pleasure. !22C68b5 The c point of travels is no longer limited, as a. score of years ago, when we were obliged to sacrifice weeks of time and a fortune for the distance of a few miles. The whole world stands open to us to day. A journey to a neighboring country is only a < short trip» and an ocean. voyage is only « abroad.* Thanks to the Kxpress-train and the fast steamers distances are annihilated. Now-a-days we can reach an other continent easier and cheaper, than we could the nearest state in earlier times. We can no longer make special claims to the title of < gentleman,* without having seen at least the most interesting points in our own country. In Europe everyone is expected to have past at least a few weeks in sunny Italy and in America a winter in charming Mexico. More, however, than in any other land the traveller needs in Mexico a < Practical Guide Book,* which complies as much as possible with his various needs. Even by knowing the language well, it is often in- possible to find anyone, who can or wants to give information of the nearest surroundings. The Mexi- cans are still too little accustomed to intercourse with strangers and there are only here and there professional guides, whose knowledge moreover is extremely mo- dest. All so called < Guides,* previously published? designate so incompletely, unsystematically and iniprac- tically the objects of interest, that they really are < in- capable* ot «gHidingi> the stranger! They have not even noticed the great changes which have taken place the last few years. The greatest necessity is felt for a new and < Practical Guide of the City and Valley of Mexico,* because these are places of the most special interest and here the changes of later years are most marked. The author of this little book has decided to meet the need and to write a series of PRACTICAL Guides THROUGH Mexico in the style of the celebrated For many years exclusively engaged in the preparation of a « Dictionary of Mexican An- tiquities* and in writing for several large American and German newspapers, I have had occasion to ex- plore the land and am thus able tc describe the country from personal experience. A comparison of this FIRST < PRACTICAL* GUIDE with Other books of the same character written of Mexico will prove its advantages, as for instance in the description of the Cathedral, National Palace, the Museums, etc. In the iStreet-Piambles* the traveller is directed systematically to sights and curiosities, that he may see them without loss of time. For the benefit of the intelligent traveller I have given in the introduction of this book some general information about c Mexico of to-dav> according to the latest and most reliable statistics, which will be treated more in detail in the new and original «En- CYCLOPOEDIA GuiDE OF MEXICO,* which I am pre- paring. Under the tide « Travel in Mexico* I have given some general hints of the subject. With heartiest thanks to all promoters of this book, especially to Dr. A. Penafiel, Mr. J. Stavoli, Mr. R. Aguilar, Prof. Jose Pina and Mr. I. Epstein and above all to my wife, Clara Atherton Riedel, for the true translation, I recommend this book to the attention of travelers. City of Mexico, October iSgr. ^^^mk^-^Wi^^^ € MEXICO OF TO-DAY. I The Country and its People, (Progress of the last decades. The golden land of the Aztecs, the Italy and E»ypt of the new world. Mexico a paradise for the Artist, the Scientist, the Speculator and the Invalid. Some items about the country; its Situation and Limits, itg Area, Superficie and Climate, Natural Products, Inhabitants, Language, Culture an i Society, Reiigion and Occupations). 4|i'he progress Mexico has made in the last fifteen years of peace is amazing and it is deLiionstrated al- most in every direction. Population, Prosperity, Means of Communication and Culture have remarkably grown. Mexico of two decades since, is therefore very different from < Mexico of to-day > Nevertheless it is still one of the most curious parts of the world and many of its most interesting points are now happily accessible by means of numerous lines of steamers and railroads Mexico, tthe golden land of the Aztecs, the cradle of European civilisation on the western continent > has very often and justly been praised as the Italy and the Egypt of the new world. Its climate is quite as mild and sunny, its landscapes are not less pictures- que and its cultivation is just as strange and antique. Mexico is a real paradise for artists and literati, for painters and scientists. Here lies open a book of na- ture and of humanity and here we nnd the Sesame to many enigmatical features of our own culture. Here the artist discovers in nature and society wonderful and surprising constrasts. He may gaze from alpine to tropic scenery, from mountain topa, covered with perpetual snow, to evergreen valleys, from pine- woods to palm-groves. Pie sees fire-spitting and ex- tinct volcanoes, colossal caves of phantastic stalacti- tes, yawning and verligionous ravines with rushing brooks and foaming waterfalls. Mighty mountains con- trast with idyllic valleys and smiling lakes; groves of venerable and gigantic cypresses, palms, bananas and coffee with fields of cactus, cenlury-planls, corn, cane, rice, pepper, etc. Now to complete the picture imagine those brown, miserable but interesting Indians; the fancifully dressed Creoles, as for instance the ccha- rro> the (farmer and peasant -girl), the caravanes of litlle shaggy donkeys (burros,) the whirling eagles, buzzards, etc. To the INVESTIGATOR is offered much material for the study of nature and civilization in the peculiar geological formations, the variety of the flora and lAuna and in the antiquities* Much is still unknown, much misunderstood! Mere you wander amazed among old Mexiciin artificial mounds (pyramids,) forts, castles, statues, paintings and fragments of house-furniture, etc. Here you find the descendants of the mysterious Tol- tecs and the warlike Aztecs. Here you may hear estrange tongues* and may recognise everywhere in language and customs important ctraditions of the old Mexican civilization, » as in the market and fair, in the temple ^ dances, in the celebration of certain holidays, in marriage, in worship of the elements, in the dwelling and dress, in food and drink. In some country places and even near the City of Mexico (at the Viga-canal) the traveller will often believe himselt transported to the times of Moctezoma (Montezuma), Together with these Indian traditions, appears the in" fluence of the Roman and Moorish culture of the Spaniards. The latter is manifested especially in churches and dwellings and in the dress and manner of living of the wealthy. The < curious mixture of Mexi- can and Spanish cultures is particularly noticeable in religious exercises, being very marked in the c church- festivals.* Here we find Mexican pagan rites in use, as the Indian dances before or in the chutch, the sacrifice of eatables and the old worship of mountain- caves and of water. European customs of the middle ages, almost disap- peared in the old world, are still practised in Mexico, as for instance c Christmas and Easter plays, > the (Nov. 2.), and the « benediction of ani- mals > to the honor of the holy abbot Saint Antonio, In many curious and picturesque places we are re- minded of c interesting Indian legends* and the ro- mantic history of the country. Thus we find still in the City of Mexico some souvenirs of the Venice of the new world, of the daring conquest, of the bold and wily Spanish adventurer Cortes; of the last heroic Aztec prince Cuauhtemoc, the Mexican ideal of con- sistency and patriotism (another Spartan Leonidas, Roman Mucius Scaevola, German Hermann the Che- rusker), and finely of the great Indian Juarez, who reconquered Mexico for the Mexicans.' Texcoco, now so modest, suggests an American Athens and a Peri- cles of the Aztecs, the wise and poetic prince Netza- hualcoyotl. Teotihuacan was the Rome and Mecca of the pagan Mexico, as Guadalupe-Hidalgo is now the Zion of the Christian Aztecs. In idyllic Tula beautiful offered to the passionate prince Tecpancatl- zin that love - inspiring bowl of pulque, (wine of the century plant^) by which he was completely captivated. Upon the blood -soaked thill of the bells, > (Cerro de las Campanas at Queretaro), ended the last empire of Mexico with the tragic death of the Archduke of Austria, Maximilian, and of his two loyal generals Mejia and Miramon. The speculative BUSINESSMAN finds a fruitful field in Mexico for various enterprises in commerce, nrining and agriculture, both in wholesale and in retail. Many spheres of work remain even unknown and in other branches competition is entirely wanting. The well established hberal republican government and the spirit of progress, which rtigns in the country favor busi- ness. The government encourages and supports as much as possible enterprises of general benefit and colonists, especially farmers and manufacturers, are very welcome. To the INVALID the mild temperature and various healing mineral waters offer relief and cure. The Sum- mer on the plateaux is cool and the Winter mild. You can easily find here eterttal Spring and perpetual Winter: you can have cool, dry or damp mountain air, glowing tropical sun, warm sea-breezes and the re- freshing exhalations of pine - woods, cold and warm mineral springs, containing salt, soda, iron, arsenic, sulphur, carbonic acid, etc. The even warm climate of Oaxaca is regarded the best in the new world for consumptives and the warm springs of Pefion de Ba- nos near the Metropolis are compared with those of Karlsbad, Vichy and Saratoga. Undoubtedly, it will be very interesting for the in- telligent traveller to get some facts, dates and com- parisons about this wonderful and peculiar country and therefore I add the following information from the latest and best sources, according to official re- ports by Dr. A. Peiiafiel, N. Islas y Bustamente, etc. Situation and limits: Mexico, (Estados Unidos Mexicanos), forms the larger part of the southern pro jection of North-America, of that narrow isthmus, the bridge between North and South America, which is about to be transformed hy the canals of Nicaragua and Panama into a Peninsula. It lies between 14^ 30' and 32" 42' north latitude and 86^ 46'8" and 117^ 7' 8" west longitude from Greenwich, almost in the lati- tude of the Sahara desert and Egypt in Africa, of Arabia, Hindostan, Birma and South-China in Asia. The boundaries are in the North the United States, (partly the Rio Grande, the Gila and the Colorado- river); in the South the small Central American repu- blic of Guatemala, (partly the Rio del Suchiate and Rio Usumacinta), and the English coal-colony Belize or British Honduras, in the south-east of Yucatan; in the East the Gulf of Mexico and the Caribbean Sea, which forms a part of the Atlantic, and in the West the Pacific Ocean and the Gulf of California. The Area of Mexico contains %yith islands about 667,603 square miles, (or 1,987,063 kilometers) is thus more than six times as large as Great Britain, but only about one fifth as large as the United States or Canada. The greatest length on the west coast, amounts to about 1 700 miles, the greatest breadth in the North to about 700 miles, the narrowest line is the Isthmus of Tehuante|>ec in the South, which com- prises only 116 miles. The land has almost the outli- nes of a cornucopiae, whose point is in the south the promontory of Catoche on the peninsula of Yucatan and whose broad opening joins in the north the boun- dary of the United States. Above in the west this cornucopiae runs over, so to say, and forms in the peninsula of Lower California a long and narrow pendant. The islands are mostly situated on the west side and cover altogether an area of 142 1 square miles (3,681 kilom). Superficie: Mexico is a volcanic mountain coun- try. It possesses some of the highest elevations of North America, which form many ravines and caves. It extends between two oceans which approach each other more and more toward the south. The two long coasts of the country in an extension of 5483 miles are washed by four waters: on the eai>t side by the Caribbean Sea and by the Gulf of Mexico at a length ot 1602 miles and on the west side by the Pacific Ocean and by the Gulf of California at the length of 3881 miles. The coast is mostly level, so that the sea in many parts invades the land, forming large clagunasi (Penilagos or Albiiferas) with many islands. Along the coast are numerous islands too, which partially are but rough cliffs, (Bajas or Esco- llos), and are generally uninhabited. From the main land are many c capes > (cabos), projecting into the sea and the three large < peninsulas > Yucatan and Ubero in the southeast and Lower California in the northwest. The peninsula of Yucatan is considered by Humboldt as a former part of the island of Cuba and separates the Caribbean Sea from the Gulf of Mexico. The peninsula of Lower California divides the Gulf of California from the Pacific Ocean. These various projections form too, many bays (Bahias) and straits (Estrechos). From the two coasts and from the south and the north boundary the ground rises in terra- ces toward the interior until about in the center of the country appear the most gigantic mountains. Hum- boldt regards this formation as a continuation of the South American < Cordillera de los Andes, > which, 8 after a short interruption in San Salvador and Gua- temala (Central America), reaches the Soconusco in Me- xico and divides itself in the north of the State of Oaxaca (in the Cempoaltepec), into two prodigious ranges, which with many interruptions proceed towards the north near the coasts, sending many branches into the interior. The east range is generally designa- ted as Sierra Madre Oriental, the west range as Sie- rra Madre Occidental; each branch has, however, in every part its special name. Between the two main ranges the Central Plateau (Mesa Central) is situated with the various mountain groups which form the Sierra Madre Central. The most gigantic group of these is the Sierra Nevada, which separates the valley of Mexico from that of Puebla, etc. The varied mountains of Mexico consist chiefly of granite, por- phyry, basalt and limestone and are rich in minerals, especially in gold, silver, copper and lead. The zone richest in ores lies between north latitude 17° and 30° and in this are most famous the mining places of the states of Pachuca, Guanajuato, Zacatecas and Sonora. Over the whole country are scattered extin- guished and active craters as .evidence of volcanic revolutions. The principal zone of volcanoes is found between north latitude 18° and 20° in the length of about 550 miles and a width of about 55 miles, in which are the most important active craters Tuxtla, San Martin, Orizaba, Popocatepetl, Jorullo, Colima, etc. The volcanoes are generally found in groups. In the vicinity of the same extend long streams of Ijiva. The rocks often form in peaks and slopes co* los&al and curious shapes as in the Trunk of Perote (Cofre de P. ; in the State of Veracruz) the Organ Pipes of Actopam (Organos de A., in the state of Hi- dalgo) the Pico de Bernal (in the state of Quereta- ro) etc. Very remarkable are the basalt walls of slender square pillars wedged together, as in the ra- vines of Santa Maria de Regla and Rio Grande, in the state of Hidalgo, and of Salto del Potrero in the valley of Tenancingo (state of Mexico). The highest mountains in the country are covered with eternal snow and partially with glaciers . In many mountains are spacious caves, some with phantastic stalactites and stagmatites as those of Cacahuamilpa, among which is the largest and most beautiful cave of the country. The summits of some mountain-ranges foim broad plateaux (Mesas or Llanos), others surround valleys (Valles) of different size or narrow and deep ravines (Barrancas or Canadas). The highest plateau is the Mesa Central, the broadest plains are in the north, those of Durango, Chihuahua and Coahuila (Bolson de Mapimi, Barrial de la Paila, Las Vegas del rio Na- zas, etc.), in the southeast those of Tabasco, Cam- peche and Yucatan, One part of the plateau is formed by large deserts of sand and alcali and long stretches of swamps (Pantanos). Meteoric stones (Aerolites) of considerable size are scattered over the land, which mostly belong to the species of meteoric steel. The largest are those near Allende, Chihuahua. (Models of these in the school of Engineering, Mexico) In the following table appear the names and heights of the most elevated mountain- peaks and of the highest inhabited valleys of the country. (V. signifies volcano). Up to this time according to Humboldt the Popocatepetl has been regarded as the highest moun- tain, but later investigations by Dr. Franz Kaska, Prof. A. Heilprin etc, have proved the volcano of Orizaba to be the < monarch of the air. » Mountain peaks: Orizaba or Citlaltepetl (Star mountain) in the state of Veracruz, 18,072 feet. Popocatepetl ( Smoking mountain ), in Puebkj 17,794- ft. Ixtaccihuatl (White woman), in Puebla, 16,072 ft. Toluca or Xinantecatl (Naked man), V., in Mexico, 15.015 ft. Nevado de Colima (Shoulder and Hand), in Jalisco, 14,359 feet. Ajusco (Place of branches), in Mexico, 13,621 ft. Malinche (Sorceress) or Matlacueyatl in TIaxcala, 23,562 ft. Cofre de Perote or Nauhcampatepetl (Square moun- tain), extinguished volcano in Veracruz, 13,408 ft» Volcano de Colima, in Jalisco, 12,739 ft. Pico de Tancftaro, in Michoacan, 12,653 ft. Patamban, in Michoacan, 12,290 ft. Zempoaltepec (20 mountains), in Oaxaca, It, 965 ft. Los Llanitos, in Guanajuato, 11,013 ft. Pico de Quinceo, in Michoacan, lo,895 ft. Gigante, in Guanajuato, 10,653 ft. Cerro de Culiacan, in Sinaloa, 10,653 ft. Las Navajas, in Hidalgo, 10,528 ft. II Valleys: Toluca, in the state of Mexico, 8,630 feet aV)ovc sea-level. Ixtlahuaca, in Mexico 8,288 ft. Apam, in Mexico 8,134 ft. San Juan de los Llanos, in Puebla 7,740 ft. Llano del Cazadero, in Hidalgo, 7,544 ft. El Salado, in San Luis Potosi, 7,544 ft. Mexico, in Mexico 7,439 ft. Patzcuaro, in Michoacan, 7,163 ft. Puebla, in Puebla, 7,052 ft. Tulancingo, in Hidalgo, 6,851 ft. Tula, in Hidalgo, 6,714 ft. Zitacuaro, in Michoacan, 6,560 ft. Morelia, in Michoacan, 6,396 ft, San Juan del Rio, in Queretaro, 6,396 ft. Ario, in Michoacan, 6,199 ft. Bajio, in Guanajuato, 5,871 ft. Taxco, in Guerrero, .^.jSsS ft. Oaxaca, in Oaxaca, 5,084 ft. Cuernavaca, in Morelos, 5,068 ft. Guadalajara, in Jalisco, 4,995 ft. As peculiar as the mountain landscape, is the Water-system of the country. Although the high mountains attract the humidity, yet the evaporation is voluminous and extraordinarily rapid; the greatest precipitations are limited to the summer semester. The powerful gradation of the surface and the comparative narrowness of the same between the two oceans inter- fere with the development of long navigable streams. Tre longest river (Rio) which Mexico possesses en- tirely, is the Lerma or Santiago of 540 miles; the longer Rio Bravo or Grande (1,500 miles) waters in the greater part of its length the United States. There are to the contrary untold numbers of little brooks and creeks (Arroyos), which mostly contain water only in the rainy season, like the Italian Fiumari and often become in that time foaming torrents. Through many of the deep ravines rushes the turbulent water of a mountain brook. On the way from the mountain to the sea these streams form numerous < water-falls > (Saltos or Cascadas). The highest of these is the Salto de Txtlamaca and Tenango in the state of Pue- bla, 524. feet, and the widest the Salto de Joanacatlan in the state of Jalisco (the Niagara of Mexico) 557 feet wide and 55 feet high. Especially rich in idyllic water-falls is the valley of Tenancingo (Mexico). Through some of the numerous caves the water has taken its way forming subterranean rivers, as, partially, the river Amacusac in the state of Guerrero. Upon the plateaux and in the valleys many « lakes* (Lagos or Lagunas) have collected in the depressions, which in the time of the rains endanger the surrounding country and in the dry season are often turned to mere swamps. Some of them have no outlet, espe- cially those in the extinguished craters, (Toluca, etc). On the coast the sea iorms, as already mentioned, many extensive lagunas, the so-called Albuferas or Penilagos. Almost every year during the rainy season the mountain torrents and lakes cause inundations in some places, whilst at the same time in others, on account of too little rain, the necessary liquid is wan- ting. This circumstance induced the old Mexicans to 13 adore particularly the deity of the water, which ele- ment plays quite a peculiar and consic'erable part. They recognized too the importance of the mountains as sources of rain and built in rel'gious zeal those artificial mounds, called the pyramids of Mexico, to the adoration of the mountains and the elements. Largest Rivers: Rio Grande or Bravo, 1,500 miles long, flows into the Gulf of Mexico. Lerma or Santiago, 457 m., to Pacific Ocean. Balsas or Mexcala 428 m., to Pacific Ocean. Yaqui, 391 m., to Pacific Ocean. Usumacinta, 360 m., to Gulf of Mexico. Grijalva or Chiapas, 347 m., to Gulf of Mexico. Fuerte, 335 m., to Pacific Ocean. San Pedro or Mezquital, 298 m., to Pacific Ocean. Panuco, 2S5 m., to Gulf of Mexico. Nazas, 279 m., to Lagana de Mairan. Ures, 260 m., to Gull of Mexico. Sinaloa, 260 m., to Gulf of Mexico. Largest Lakes: Chapala, in the states Jalisco and Michoacan, long 51, wide iSh miles. Cuitzeo in Michoacan. Patzcuaro in Michoacan. Texcoco in Mexico. Chalco-Xochimilco in Mexico. Tepamcuapan in Chiapas, long 14 m. Yuriria in Guanajuato, long lof, wide 4| m, Bacalar in Yucatan. Mayran in Coahuila. 14 Almost in all parts of the country are found mi- neral springs (Aguas Minerales), especially in the neighborhood of the volcanoes, which contain salt, alcali, sulphur, carbonic acid or iron, are of different temperature, up to 215 degrees Fah., and compete with the best of the old and new world. Only a few of them have, however, comfortable bathing arrange- ments to make them accessible to the public. The MINERAL WATERS most frequented and with best accommodations are: Penon de los Banos (Federal District): soda-water, temperature: 112° Farh. Guadalupe-Hidalgo (Federal Discrict), iron-water. Texcoco (Federal District), salt-water; 68°. Atotonilco el Grande (Hidalgo), salt-water, 136". Rancho Colorado (Puebla), sulphur-water, 83". Agua Hedionda (Morelos), sulphurwater. Ojocaliente (Aguascalientes), soda-water, 124°. Topo Cliico (Nuevo Leon), sulphur-water, 105°. La Laja (Jalisco), sulphur- water, 212°. Zalatitan (Jalisco), soda water, 105". Valparaiso (Durango), iron-water. Cuincho (Michoacan), soda-water, 86^.. The Climate is as varied as its soil. Here you can breathe all kinds of air, dry and damp, warm and cool, thin and thick. It is true, the southern half lies beyond the tropic of cancer, but 'the enor- mous elevations moderate the power of the tropical sun. We therefore distinguish according to the height 15 three principal climatic zones, viz:, from the sea level to 3280 feet the hot zone, tierra caliente, with a yearly average temperature of 86 to 88 Fah.; from 3,280 to 6,560 feet the temperate zone, tierra templa- da, with an average of 73 to 77 Fah. and above 6560 feet the cool region, tierra fria, av. of 59 to 62 Fah. Between these figures are many grades of temperature, which often within a short distance and at an equal elevation are changed by a sheltered sit- uation or by more or less humidity. Very sensible changes are frequent in all three zones and are otten caused only by a veil of clouds, sometimes by cool northern winds (Nortes). On the east coast the most violent winds prevail in winter and spring, from northwest; on the west coast they are to the contrary, in the summer, from southwest. The northers (Nortes) of the east coast are generally preceded by a close heat, accompanied by great dampness. Now and then a cool breeze comes up from the northeast and northwest. The fog di=appears immediately from the summits of the mountains and gives place to trans- parent clouds. Suddenly roars the storm and last often from 3 to 4 days. The heavy northeast winds which appear on the west coast with a bright sky are called Papagayos or Tehuantepec. Fogs frequently darken the coast and frost whitens the highlands. Snow falls seldom, even in the highest inhabited valleys and remains on the ground but a short time. The boundary of perpetual snow is at the height of 12,460 feet. In the cool zone the thermometer sinks sometimes in winter below the freezing point. i6 Generally but two seasons are now recognized, the dry and the wet (tiempo de secas and de aguas). The latter occurs here adversely to southern Europe in the summer. In the time from November to April it scarcely rains at all upon the plateau, at the coast some- what oftener. In the time from May to October it rains frequently, especially in the months of July to Septem- ber, where it rains almost every afternoon. Sometimes these rains are accompanied by thunderstorms and not rarely they appear as rain-spouts. In the forenoon the sky is usually blue and only at the horizon, especially near the mountain profiles, loom up some brilliant white clouds, which quickly grow, while lightning darts and thunder rolls, till the entire heavens are darkened. Cool wind rises and a heavy shower pours from the clouds, threatening to transform the whole landscape into a lake. After the rain the sky clears away quite as fast and when the sun comes again into action every trace of the rain vanishes after a short time, especially on the plateau, owing to the extraor- dinary evaporation. A richly-colored rainbow, often reflected, beautifies the heavens. The climate of the temperate zone may be best compared with that of Middle or South Italy, or perhaps w:th an < eternal » English or American spring, including as well its much praised glories as its known caprices. Here too the heavens have that same < eter- nal > blue as in Italy. As model-places of this mild climate might be recommended the cities of Jalapa and Orizaba (Veracruz), Taxco, Chilpancingo (Gue- rrero), Ameca (Jalisco) and Oaxaca. Even in the 17 highest inhabited valleys th?? climate is generally mild, especially in comparison with that of northern coun- tries, as may be seen from the particular description of the climate in the valley and city of Mexico. Nature has provided the country in all three de- partments, with Minerals, Flora and Fauna, so richly and in such variety, that in spite of the considerable knowledge which the aboriginals had already acquired and the scientific study of later years it has been impossible to investigate all its products. The ancient Mexicans were very fine observers of nature and were especially well acquainted with the property and uses of the plants of their country. Modern science has in many cases profited of their knowledge. The great variety of the natural products of Mexico is partially caused by the difference of the soil and climate. The latter has rendered it possible that the plant and animal kingdom have been enriched by products of other continents. There is scarcely a plant or an animal in the world, that may not be introduced and raised in some part of the country. Some natural products of Mexico have been introduced for cultiva- tion into the old world (tobacco, century plant, Indian corn, etc.) and many are yearly exported for green- houses. The Mineral Products belong to the most con- siderable of the country. They have indirectly caused the conquest and later constituted its greatest wealth. The Aztecs had already begun mining in a primi- i8 tive way; they worked especially gold (in placeres), silver, copper, onyx (tecali), porous amygdaloid (te- zontli) porphyry, basalt, obsidian (iztli), salt, natron, cinnabar, etc. Mining gives employment to a great part of the population and has caused the foundation of many cities. The numerous mining towns with their peculiar amalgamation works (haciendas de bene- ficio del patio, a mexican invention), are some of the characteristics of Mexico. About an average of 30 million pesos worth of minerals are annually mined and form the most important article of export from Mexico, es- pecially silver and gold, copper and lead. The product of quicksilver in the country e5p>ecially used for amalgamation is however not sufficient for home use. The total product of gold and silver which the Mexican mines have yielded since the conquest is estimated at over 4,000 million pesos or about 37;?: of the product in the whole tvorld during that time. The principal mineral zone extends from north latitude 17" — 30°, the mountain range of the Sierra Madre Occidental being the richest in ores. Some parts of the mountains have not yet been explored and many mines are abandoned for want of enterprise or capntal. (See: II. part Industry and Commerce). There are here actually known more than 300 species of minerals, the more important are with their principal places of mining: Gold (oro), and silver (plata), native and in com- position with lead, copper, etc., in the states of Gua- najuato, Zacatecas, Hidalgo, San Luis Potosi, Chihua- hua, Sonora, Lower California and Guerrero. 19 Platina in Veracruz and Guerrero, in small quan- tities. Copper (cobre), in Guerrero, Michoacan, Guanajua- to, Sonora, Lower California and Chihuahua. Iron (fierro), principally in Hidalgo, Guanajuato, Ja- lisco, Morelos, Veracruz, Sonora, Oaxaca and Duran- go. In the latter state is the famous Cerro del Mer- cado, which probably contains the most enormous mass of magnetic iron in the whole world. Lead (plomo), in Zaeatecas, Sonora, Oaxaca and Mexico. Tin (estaiio), in Zaeatecas, Sonora, and Oaxaca. Zinc in Guerrero. Cinnabar (cinabrio), in San Luis Potosi, Tabasco, Guanajuato, Zaeatecas and Guerrero. Quicksilver (mercurio), in San Luis Potosi, Guerrero and Tabasco. Alum (alumbre), in Puebla and i^Iichoacan. Bismuth (bismuto), in Zaeatecas, Rock christal (cristal de roca), in Nueva Leon. Marble and Onyx (tecali), in Oaxaca, Veracruz, Pue- bla, San Luis Potosi and Sonora. Opals (opalos), in Queretaroand Guerrero. Salt (sal) at the coast of the Gulf of Mexico in the state of San Luis Potosi (Penon Blanco), Mexi- co, etc. Natron (tequesquite), in Mexico. Coal (bulla or carbon de piedra) in Veracruz, Puebla, Oaxaca, Tamaulipas, Coahuila, Sonora and Tabasco^ 20 Sulphur (azufre), especially in the craters of the highest mountains, the Orizaba and the Popocatepetl, further in the States of Michoacan (Sierra Madre) and Du- rango, (Sierra de Mapimi and Tamasula). Coal Oil (petroleo), not of a very fine quality, in the Federal District, Veracruz, Oaxaca and Tabasco. Asphalt (asfalto) in Tamaulipas and Veracruz. Diamonds (diamantes) are said to have been discovered in the state of Guerrero, but the report has not yet been confirmed. Granite (granito), in Oaxaca, Jalisco, Mexico and Guerrero. Porphyry (porfido), in Chihuahua, Hidalgo, Jalisco, Puebla, Queretaro, Zacatecas. Potter's clay (barro), especially fine in Jalisco and Puebla. Further are found in different places antimony (an- timonio), cobalt (cobalto), arsenic (arsenico), gypsum (Yeso), turquoise (turquesas), agate (agata), garnet (granate), emerald (esmeralda), topaz (topacio), etc. The Vegetable Products are in Mexico on account of the great variety of soil and climate and the many introductions of new plants probably more numerous than in any other part of the world. Me- xico has become a real cosmos of vegetation, an immense botanical garden, so to say. More than 10,000 species of plants are known and analyzed and still many remain to be discovered to science. Trees grow here to an altitude of 13,054 feet, herbes up to I3>7i3 feet. The capacity of the soil is however very 21 different, Mexico is the land of striking contrasts, which is especially demonstrated in its vegetation: voluptuous growth varies with bare deserts, often within a short distance. There are luxuriant virgin forests, where the ground is overshadowed with creeping plants and brushwood and the branches are perfectly covered with parasites (lianas a.id orchids); near the coasts these forests are often as swampy and impene- trable as the jungles of India. There are immense prairies (Sabanas), thickly covered with high grasses and fragrant blossoms, tllere are while alcali deserts, rocky and sandy plains, where hardly anything else but the curious cacti and agaves grow. The traveller who enters Mexico from the North and duiidg the winter, over the Central plateau, is generally disap- pointed and thinks it the country of sand-whirls and cacti, but even a few hours ride to the east or west would change this idea. In a couple of hours you can be transferred from pine forests to palm groves. Most luxurious is nature in the hot and temperate zone of Mexico, especially in sheltered valleys, in the ravines and on the banks of the rivers. In the cool zone, the gigantic Mexican cypresses (ahuehuetes), covered with Spanish moss or orchids, demonstrate the productive power of the soil, competing with the giant chest-nut trees of Sicily and the redwood or mammoth trees of California (U. S.). Stately trees are further the ahuacates, mangos, amates, ashes, eucalyptus, palmas, etc.; curious trees are the « weeping tree> (Ar- bol de la Uuvia or de agua), the < phosphoric tree» (Arbol fosforico), the « caustic tree* (Arbol caustico) 22 the € claw-tree > (Arbol de las manitas) and the c sen- sitive plants! (Sensitiva). The soil is generally very rich especially around the volcanoes, over the de- cayed lava; unhappily the distribution of water is very unequal and in many parts inadequate. The Aztecs had therefore learned the usefulness of irrigation. Nevertheless there are fields bearing through the whole year, not only without manure and irrigation but even without thorough ploughing. Flowers and friiits are often seen together on the same tree at the sa- me time. Extraordinary is the variety in econo- mical plants. Here grow apples and bananas, sugar cane, coffee, cocoa, vanilla and tobacco, wheat and Indian corn, sweet and Irish potatoes, a peculiar wine plant (the maguey), many kinds of textiles, excellent timber, cabinet and dye woods and numerous medi- cinal, gum, resin and oil yielding plants. The prin- cipal agricultural products are according to quan- tity: Indian corn, wheat, barley and Mexican beans (frijoles), further straw, sugar, sisal hemp and ixtle; cotton, garden beans (habas), rice, vetch, chick-peas and potatoes. Indian corn and Mexican beans are the principal food, red pepper (chile) the principal condiment of the people- With the considerable production of fruit, wine and brandy of the century plant (maguey), sugar cane (aguardiente) and of grapes etc., the annual farm production will be worth on an average about 350 millions of pesos. Much of the soil is however still uncultivated, of the unsettledland (terrenos baldfos) and of a great part of the large farms (hacienda-*). The 33 produc'iveness of certain plants is wonderful, Indian corn, for instance, yields in certain cases up to 8oo times, wheat as much as lio times. Corn and wheat of Mexico are of the finest quality. In some parts of the country two and three crops can be harvested in one year. The most productive plant is probably the banana, one acre of these plants being able to sustain about 70 persons; the most useful however is the cen- tury p'ant, which furnishes the peculiar wine of the country, fiber, food, fuel etc. This enormous pro- ductive power of certain plants is the reason why the Indians cultivate but a small space of land. Many products of vegetation are annually exported in con- siderable quantities, among these a variety of orna- mental plants. The groves of coco palms and bana- nas, the fields X)f century plants (Magueyales), prickly pears (Tunales) and ananas are picturesque characte- ristics of Mexico. (See: II. part Agriculture, Industry and Commerce). In the following table I give an index of some of the most useful and interesting plants, arranged alpha- betically according to their Mexican names, v/ith En- glish equivalent (hardly to be found in any dictionary), scientific name, classification and some curious items. Acelga, beet, Betta vulgaris cycla, Salsolaceas. Ahuacate, butter-nut, Persea gratissima, Laurineas: in four varities in warm and temperate .zone; nutritious fruit, principal harvest April-June; wood for timber. Ahuehuete or Sabino, Mexican cypress, Taxodium distichum, Coniferas: grows very old, to gigantic size, 24 as in Chapultepec, Popotla, Texcoco, Atlixco and Oaxa- ca (Santa Maria del Tide). The latter, admired and described by Humboldt, has a circumference of 1 70 feet and a height of 124 feet. These trees are very often covered with Spanish moss or with orchids. Ajonjoli, beneseed, Sesaraum orienlale, Sesameas: oil plant, introduced from Africa; total production es- timated in 18S0 S153 643: arlicle of export. Alacle or huinar, Malva scoparia, Malvaceas: textile and medicinal plant. Alcgria, oily grain, (Sesameas): seeds used by the Indians for candy and oil. Alfalfa, Medicago sativa, Leguminosas. Algodon, cotton, Gossypium hcrbaceam and arbo- reutn, Malvaceas: a native plant, cultivated in herbes and trets in many varieties, especially in the northern states of Coahuila, Duran^jo, Chihuahua, but al^o in Veracruz, Colima, Yucatan etc.; generally sowed from March to June, harveste), cocoa, Theo- broraa cacao, Buttneriaceas: native tree in hot zone of seven varieties, in Tabasco, Chiapas, (Soconusco, the best of all) and Colima; bears fruit after five years for 20 to 35 years; harvest from Nov. to Jan.; pro- duction in 1880 §1.140,050; important article of ex- port. The Aztecs used the beans as money. Cacomite or Oceloxochitl, Tigridia pavonia, Irideas; nutritious root, food for the Indians, toasted tastes somewhat like the chest-nut. Cafe, coffee, Cofifea ar;;bica, Rubiaceas: introduced from Africa at the end of the 1 8th country, grows in elevated places of hot zone, in Veracruz (famous Cor- doba), Michoacan (famous Uruapam), Colima, Chiapas, Guerrero, Oaxaca etc; generally cultivated under the shade of banana-plants. Tree begins to bear fruit after the second year for 1 5 to over 20 years. The < Mocha* is select fruit of the same trees. Two har- vests yearly, first and best in June and July, second in Dec. and Jan. Production in 1880 $2,060,382; lately very much increased, one of the most important articles of export. Calabaza, pumpkins or gourds, Cucurbita melopeo, Cucurbitaceas: in many varieties, flowers and fruit 27 very popular food; the calabaza trompeta, gnaje or acocote, Lagenaria vulgaris, is used as instrument for the extraction of pulque. Camote, sweet potato, Batatas edulis.Convolvulaceas; a native plant growing in many varieties in temperate zone, with white, yellow or red roots; planted from March to May, harvest from Aug. to Oct; finest and largest are the yellowish roots of Queretaro; in Pue- bla and Morelia the white root is used to prepare a very fine preserve. Caoba, mahogony, Switenia mahogoni, Cedrelaceas: cabinet wood, exported. Cana de aziicar, Saccarum officinarum, Gramineas: cultivated in three varieties since middle of i6ih century in hot and ten.perate zone, in Morelos (largest sugar ma- nufactury Cuahuixtla near Cuautla), Veracruz, Puebla, Oaxaca, Yucatan; production in 1880 $8,761,317, little exported. The molasses are used to extract alcohol (refino) and brandy (aguardiente). Canafistula, purging cassia, Cassia fistuloides, Le- guminosas: medicinal. Capulin, American cherrj^, Cerasus capollin, Rosa- ceas: native fruit tree in temperate and cold zone, ca- binet wood. Cardo, garden artichoke, Dipsacus fullonum, Dip- saceas. Cardo santo, holy thistle, Circium mexicanum, Si- nanterias: medicinal. Carrizo (cana veral), reed grass, Arundo donnas, Gramineas. 28 Cascalote, Coesalpinia coriaria, Legumino&as: medi- cinal. Cassahuate, Ipomea arborescens etc, Convolvula- ceas. Cedro, cedar, Cedrela odorata, Meliaceas: medicinal gum and timber. Cedro bianco, white cedar, Cupressus Lindley — Ce- dro de la Sierra, mountain cedar, Chamoeccypares thurifera: timber. Ceiba or Pochote, silk cotton, Eriodendron anfrac- tuosum, Bombajeas: native t-ee of ihe hot zone, i. C- dicinal, its cotton used for pillow cases etc. Cevada, barley, Hordeum vulgare, Gramineas; in- troduced by the conquerors, next to Indian corn and wheat the most important grain, cultivated in tempe- rate and cool zone, generally sowed Nov. to Jan; harvest in Spring, produces as much as 24 times, production in 1S80 $4,403,742, little exported. Chavacano, apricot, Armeniaca vulgaris, Rosaceas. Chayote, Sechium edule, Cucurbitaceas: several va- rieties, a vine which produces a green or white vegetable, the green kind is thorny and boiled tastes like calabash. Chia, lime -leaved sage. Salvia chian, Labiadas: Mexican condiment for drinks etc. Chicozapote or zapotillo, Zapota archas, Sapoteas: fruit tree of hot zone. Chile, Cayenne or red pepper, Capsicum annuum, Solanaceas: principal condiment of the Mexicans, in 29 many varieties, used fresh and dried; production in 1880 $4,196,482, litfcle exported. Chirimoyo, Anona chirimolia, Anonaceas; fruit tree of hot zone. Cidra, citron, Citrus medica cedra, Auranciaceas: introduced from Asia. Ciruelo del pais or atoyaxocotl, Mexican phim, Spoiulias myrobolanus elc, Terebintaceas; in many varieties, in temperate and hot zone. Comino, cumin seed, Cuminum, Umbelliferas: pro- duction in 1880 $23, 5( o. Copaiho, copaiba, Terebinthina copaiferas, Legurai- nosas: furnishes medical bal^am. Copalillo, Elaphrium copalliferum, etc Rutaceas: Mexican gum-tree; the gum of this tree was the in- cense of ihe ancient Mexicans. Coquito de aceite, oil-palm, Elaeis melanococca; palm of the hot zone; produces oil, article of export. Ebano, ebany, Dio^pyros ebenum, Ebenaceas: ca- binet-wood. Flor de Noche Buena, Euphoibia pulcherrima, Euphorbiaceas: a peculiar red Mexican flower, medi- cinal. Flor de San Juan, Bouvardia longiflora, Rubiaceas: beautiful native flower of ihe valley of Mexico, used for perfume. Floripondio, Brugmansia suaveolens and bicolor, So- lanaceas: large while or colored flower. Fresno, ash, Fraxinus juglandifolia, Oleaceas: es- pecially on Central Plateau. 30 Frijol, Mexican bean, Phasseolus vulgaris, Legumi* nosas: many varieties, best is called, bayo gordo, sowed between the Indian corn, furnishes the princi- pal food of the people, so to say, the potatoes of the Mexicans, production in 1880 $8,406,211; article of export. Garambullo, Cereus garambuUos, Cactus with eatable, reddish, purgative berries. Garhanzo, chick pea, Cicer arietinum, Leguminosas: native plant, production in 18S0 $471,075; article of export. Girasol or chimalatl, Helianthus annuus: introduced from Peru for the extraction of oil. Grama or zacate, couch grasa, Tritictim repens, Gramineas: in many varieties, medicinal; furni^he3 straw and roots (zacaton), the latter used for bruihes etc. Granada, pomegranate, Tunica granatum, Grana- teas: introduced from Spain. Granadita, Chinese pomegranate, Passiflora coerulea, Passifloras ; kind of passion flower, with eatable gourd. Guaco or Tecomate, Aribtolochia grandiflora, Aris- tolochiaceas: medicinal. Guaje, Crescentia cajete, Bignonaceas: native fruit tree of hot zone; guaje is aUo a kind of gourd, Lagenaria vulgaris, see calabazas. Guayabo, guava. Psyllium pyriferum, Mirtaceas. fruit tree of hot and temperate zone, cuUivaled and wild. Haba, garlen bean, Vicia faba, Leguminosas: pro. duction in l88o $477,610. Heno, Spanish moss, TiUandbia asneoides, Bromelia- ceas: hanging from the cypresses etc, in pendants and garlands as natural dccoratiun, especially prolific and picturesque at Chapultepec, Amecameca. Higo, fig-tree, Ficiis carico, Urtiaceas. Higuerilla, castor oil plant, Ricinus comunis, Eu- phorbiaceas. Huacamoie, sweet cassava or yucca, Jatropha ma- nihot aipi, Euphorbiaceas: Mexican farinaceous plant ol three varieties (see Yucca amarga) grows in the hot zone, Veracruz, Yucatan etc, furnishes a kind of bread and tapioca; the cassava fields are called tconucos.i Huamuchil, Ixlimosa unguiscati, Leguminosas: Mexi- can fruit tree of hot and temperate zone. Iluaugzontle, Mexican as pairagus, Blitum bonus Hen- ricus, Chenopodiaceas. Hiiitlacoche, eatable corn mush room, Uredo maydis Fungus: grows on the ears of Indian corn. Huizache, Acacia albicans etc, Leguminosas: tim- ber and fruit (beans). Idame, yam, Dioscorea alata, Dioscoreas: nutritious root, kind of asparragus; introduced from Africa as food for negro slaves. Ipecacuana blanca, white luecac, Richardsonia scabra, Rubiaceas: native plant^ ;^'-'''- t-i hct zone, (Veracruz^ Qjeretaro etc), root meaicmai, exported. jalapa or Purga, jalap, Ipomoea purga etc, Con- vulvulaceas; native vine of temperate zone, (Veracruz, 33 Queretaro etc), root medicinal; exported in consider- able quantity. Jamaica, Hibiscus sabdariffa, Mahaceas: hot zone, red flower used for a febrifuge drink. Jicama, Dolichos tuberosus, I^egumi.nosas: native sweet, farinaceous root; very much cultivated. Jinicuil, Inga jinicuile; fruit tree. Jitomate, tomato, Lyco^iersicum sculentum, Solana- ceas: native plant, cultivated in all zones. Jolocin, Eleocarpea: weed of Tabasco, lately success- fully employed in ihe manufacture of paper, Lenteja, lentil, Ervum lens, Leguminosas: produc- tion in iSSo $33,043. Lima, sweet lime, Citrus limmeta, Aiirantiaceas. Limon, lemon tree, Citrus medica limo'ium, Aiiran- tiaceas; cultivated in many varieties; limon real, royal lemon etc, fruit and juice exported. Linaloe, aloe tree, Amyris lynaloe etc, Terebinta- ceas: wood used for perfume, exported. Liquidambar, Liquidambar styraciflua: native tree of hot zone, furnishes the sweat-gum. Maguey century plant. Agave americana etc, Amarilideas: most useful and peculiar native plant of Mexico, grows in many varieties all over the country, furnishes the wine of the country, the intoxicating < pulque >, the brandy «mezcal» and a strong fiber, the The finer fiber «lienequen« and the finer brandy « tequilas are obtained from two other varieties. Lately a good kind of vinegar has been extracted from the < pulque > too. The Aztecs called the plant 33 «mell> and used it besides for the extraction of c pul- que > (oclli), for the manufacture of clothing, pa- per, molas-es and sugar; it furnishes further gum, fooil, fuel, needle and thread, household furniture and other useful utensils. Total production in 1880, $9,842,227. Si^al hemp is one of the most impor- tant articles of export. (Compare: Jose C. Segura, El Maguey, Mexico 1891). Mai'z, Indian corn, Zea mays, Gramineas: native phmt of Mexico, the «tlaolli> of the Aztecs, principal grain of the country; cultivated in many varieties; yields from 40 to 800 times, at an average, from 80 to 150 times; production in 1880 $112,164,424; very little exported. Sown usually from April to June, harvest from Sept. to Nov. It furnishes the bread (tortillas) of the people, made in round thin cakes and without yeast. Mamey, mammee, Lucuma Bomplandi, Sapoteas: temperate and hot zone, furnishes fruit (after eleven years) and cabinet wood, seeds are medicinal. Mangle, mangrove, Rhisophora mangle, Risopho- reas- in forests of the east coast; gum and limber used. Mango, Mangifera indica, Terebintaceas: in tempe- rate and hot zone in many varieties, fine shade trees, fruit after four years, best « mango de Cordoba > and < mango de Manila », harvest during Spring and Sum- mer. Maranta, Maranta arundinacea, Marantaceas: root produces the slatch called arrowroot. Melon, Cucumis me!o, Cucurbitaceas. 34 Merr.brillo, quince, Pynis cydonia, Rosaceas: cool and temperate zone, furnibhes a palatable wine «vino de membrillo>. Mezquite, Prosopis dulcis, Leguminosas; native tree, sweet beans are used by the Indians as food and for a fermented drink; furnishes timber, gum, medicine. Naranjo, orange tree. Citrus aurantium etc; Au- rantiaceas: cuUivated in many varieties; fruit exported. Nardo, tuberose, Polyhantus tuberosa, Liliaceas. Nopal manso, prickly pear cactus, Cactus opuntia: native cactus of many varieties, grows especially on the Central Plateau and furnishes the very refreshing and popular fruit « tunas, the best kind grows around Alfajayucan (state of Hidalgo). Harvesf from June to October. In San Luis Potosi a red kind is used for the favorite drink Salix pentranda and babilonica, Salicineas. Sempasuchil or Zempoalxochitl, Tagetes erecta, Com- puestas: yellow, favorite flower of the Indians. Sieinpreviva, house-leek, Aizoon canarieiisis, Cra" suiacens- many varieties, medicinal. Tabaco, tobacco, Nicotiana tabacura, Solanaceas: native plant of Mexico, the yell of the Aztecs, in many varieties in hot zone; wild in Tabasco etc, best in Veracruz, Oaxaca (Tuxtepec) and Tepic, further in Yucatan, Campeche, Chiapas etc; production in 1880 $2 006,153; important article of export. Talayote, Gonolol^us pedunculatus, Asclepedias: eatable green fruit; harvest in Summer. Tamarindo, tamarind, Tamarindus occidentalis, Le- guminosas: hot zone, fruit medicinal, exported. 37 Tejocote, Mexican thorn-apple or haw-thorn, Cra- taegus Mexicanus, Rosaceast native fruit tree of tem- perate and cool zone, abundant in fruit; harvest Oct, to Dec. Tepeguaje, Acacia acapulcensis, Leguminosas; hot zone, furnishes timber and gum. Timbiriehe, wild pine apple, Bromelia pinguin, Bromeliaceas; hot zone. Tomate, Phy.-alis pubescens etc, Solanaceas: favorite Mexican condiment of many varieties. Trigo, v\heat, Triticutn sativum, Gramineas; introduced about 1530, next to corn most cultivated grain in Mexico, sown in Nov. -Jan., harvested in April and May, yieliis on an average from 15 to 30 and up to no tirnes. Humboldt considers the Mexican wheat among the best of the world; finest in Puebla (Atl xco), Mexico, Toluca, Guanajuato, Queretaro etc; production in 1880 $17-436, 34-5- Trompetilla, Bouvardia anguslifoUa, Rubiaceas; beau- tiful vine. Tule, reeds, Cyperus, Cyperaceas: very prolific on the banks of the lakes; green used as food for animals, dried to make mats, fire-fans etc, especially in the valley of ToUica (Lerma). Uva, grape vine, vilis viidfera, Vitiferas; introduced from Spain, be>t in Coahwila (Parraa), Chihuahua (Ciudad juarc/-:), Puebla (Ti.-huacan) etc. In Parras is manufactured a liglU, good wine and cognac. Wild grapes (parras) grow in various places. Valnilla, vanilla, Epidendrum vanilla, Orchideas: 38 native plant of hot zone, the tlilxochitl of the Aztecs, wild and cuUivated, blooms in Febr. and March, harvest Zvlarch to June; best fruit in Veracruz, (Papantla, Misantla); production in 1 880 $651,958; formerly exported exclusively from Mexico, still an important article of export. Yoloxochitl or flor del corazon, Magijolia mexica- na, Magnoliaceas: very fmgant flower. Yuca amarga, bitter cassava, Jalropha janipha, Eu- phorbiaceas; native plant of the same kind as the sweet cassava or huacainole and although poisonous furnishes too, after certain preparations, the same tapio- ca; the brown juice is used as sauce. Zapote, sapota, fruit trees of many varieties: zapote bianco, white sapota, Casimiroa edulis, Rutaceas; za- pote borracho, yellow sapota, Lucuraa salici folia, Sa- potaceas, especially in Morelos — zapote prieto, black sapota, Dio^pyros obtusifolius, Ebenaceas, The gum of the sapotas, called < chicle, » is an article of ex- port. Zarzamora, bramble or blackberry, Rubus fnictico" sus, Rosaceas: wild in tlie tetnperate and cool zone, is used in the valley of Toluca for blackberry wine, (vino de zarza). Zarzaparrilla, sarsaparilla, Smilax medica, Esparra- gineas; medicinal native plant of hot zone, especial- ly in Veracruz; root exported; production in 1 880 §149,489. 39 Animal Life too is very rich in species, augmented by many specimens of the old world. Uut in this department also, there still remains much to study- Almost among all classes are found useful and hurtful, curious and interesting animals. The zoologist as well as the hunter and the fisher will find another Eden in Mexico. Upon the mountains, in the forests and around the lakes various kinds of game abound and two oceans, numerous lakes and rivers contain all classes of «frutti di mare* (sea-fruit) as the Neapoli- tans say. The Aztecs venerated certain animals as symbols of their divinities, especially those which live in the mountains and about the v.ater (tiger, eagle; rabbit, snake, turtle etc). Chase and fishery were some of their principal occupations. They even kept deer parks and zoological gardens, but only a few domestic animals. (See II. part, Agriculture). The purpose of this book prevents the author from entering into greater details and he limits himstlf therefore to the mention of a few curious species (with Spanish and scientific name) of the various families. The students of zoolOviy should not fail to visit the zoological garden in the park of Chapultepec (Mexico) and the collections of some museums of the country (Mexico, Museo Nacional; San Luis PotObi; Guadala- jara etc). Mammalias are found in all classes. Those gigan- tic animals however such as elephants, mastodons, giant armadillos and buffalo, with which we are acquainted by their fossils, have per. shed. 40 Three kinds of MONKEYS (monos), exist in the hot region : Micetes villosus in Tehuantepec — mico or mdchin, Aleles velierosus — maitucha, Cijrcoleples can- divolvolus. Very numerous are the species of BATS (murciela- gos) and VAMPIRES (vampiros). Insectivorous animals are represented in two kinds of shrew-mice or rannics, «Soricidae» (Blarina Gray). Among the BEASTS OF PREY are lion (Icon or pu- ma, FeUs puma, concolor and eyra in hot and temperate region); tiger (ligre or ocelot!, Felis pardaHs^ ligniia: in the forests); jaguar (onzd or leon monero, Fells yaguarondi in Chiapas and Veracruz); wolf (lobo, Felis lupus and cc>yote, Canis latrans, in the mountains); wild caib in many varieties (gnto montes, Felis rufa); black, brown and red bear (oiO); fox (zorra, Vulpes virginianus etc); badge (tejon, Na=ua nasica and ma- pache, Procyoii loior in the South); weasel (huron) in many varieties (as cacomiztle, Bassaris astuta on the Central plateau, tepcchii.hi, Bassaris sumichrasli); fitchet (onzita, iSIustela braailiensis on the Central plateau; zorrillo, Mephitis mephitica vitatta, macrura, bicolor, Bassaris monticola, Conepaius mesolencus etc); ichneu- mon (nutria or perro de agua, Lutra felina; at both coasts.); a curious native dog (pe.ro) is the fat little Chihuahue[ise. Gnawing animals are the castor (Castor fiber), the mole (tuza; Geomys mexicanus and h.spi ius on the Central plateau — quauhlusa, Uasyprocta mexicana; near the Gulf of Mexico); squirrel (ardil'.a; Sciurus variega- 41 tus, hypopj'rras and Deppei in tlie south, vSpermophi- lus mexicanus: on tlie Central plateau); hare and rabbit (liebre and concjo) are in all parts in great abundance (as Lepus callotis, s-ylvaticus, aquaticus); mice (ra)ones) and rats (rata:) are not less frequent, (rati conejo, Dipodomys or.lii etc) Mexican species are the huitzllacuatzin (Synelheres mexicanus) and tepeiz- cuintli (Caelogenis paca) in Veracruz. Edentatfd animals are armadillo (Tatusia novem- cincta) and ant-eater (chupamiel). Ungulous animals are the tapir (danta or anie- burro, Tapirus Bairdi in Veracruz etc); wild boar (ja- vali: Dycotyles - tajiicu); deer (venado) in niai.y varie- ties (as Cervus mexicanu>, toltecus, rufinus, virginianus, Galera barbara etc). Niitive RU.Mi:sANTS are the buffalo (Bos america- nus, mochatus) antilope (gamuza in Califurnia) etc. Marsupialia are the opossums (tlacuatz'n, Diilel- phys virgiiiiana and raton tlacuatzin Didelphis mu- rina). Amons; the fish mammalias are represented the whale (l)a!lena or cachalote) and seal (foca, Monachus tropicalis) in tlie Pacific Ocean, the sea-co^v (ma- nati, Manatus americanus) in the Gulf of Mexico, the dolphin (dclfm, Dolphinub) in both oceans etc. The Feathered Creation contains over 200 kinds of swimming, singing and scansorial birds, \vac pratnicola — 1. tecolotito. Scops "^Iccalli — 1. llancra, Sliigimnhemipus perlaia — tecoiote, Bube virginianus — Lildio, Aigialilis vociferus, Wilsonius, 46 semipalmatus, nivosus^ — Iriguero, Sturnella ludoviciana and magna. Papati real, Ostinops moctezumae. Reptiles are representtd in various kinds of snakes crocodiles, lizzards and turtles. Most of the snakes (culebras or seipientes) are harmless; some are re- markable for their beautitul and bright melaWic colors (as Leptophis mexicanus and diplotrapis). In the hot region exist enormous boas or anacondas (mazacoatlj l^oa imperator) of 20-30 feet long. I'he poisonous rattle-snakes (serpientes de cascabel, Crotalus casca- vella etc) appear in all parts of the country. Harm- less and numerous are the water snakes (culebras de agua, Tropidonotus collaris, bipunctactus etc, in Gua-* najuato and Guadalajara). The so called cencoail is kept in the gardens to destroy certain worms from the p'ants- Crocodiles (lagartos or caimanes) Ii)iger on both coasts in the svcamps and at the mouths of the rivers; lizzards (lagartijos) are very numerous and in some places (Veracruz, Colima etc) of enormous size (as the Iguana rhinolopha etc); horned toads (camaleo- nes, Phrysonoina orbiculare, taurus etc) appear on the Central plateau, in Colima etc. Turtles (tortugas) are especially abundant and large at the coasts, those of Yucatan, Lower California and Sinaloa (Chelonia imbricata) furnish the fine turtoise shell (carey) — smaller kinds are in rivers, lakes and swamps of the inteiior. Among the Amphibia are to he mentioned toads (sapos), Irogs (laiiaa) and the curious Mexican proteus, the ajolote or achoque de agua (Siredon pisciformis, 47 lichenoides, Diimerilii), v/hich, as the frogs, are a de- licacy of the Indians (in Mexico and Michoacan). Fish (pescados) abound in great variety from the large sword-fish (pez - espada), shark (tiburon) and cuttle-fish (lintorera) of the Ocean, to the most dehcate sardines of lakes and rivers,. At the ta'ole you will be glad to become acquainted with the red snapper (huauchinatigo, Lutjanus ulackfordi from the Gulf of Mexico— or with the salmon, bream (robalo, Centro- pomus), herring (harengo) from tl»e Pacific Ocean — or with eel (anguil.i), white fish (pescado bianco) trout (truc'na) «bagres'(Arius) and sardine (jjiles) from the lakes and rivers. Among the Mollusca are found in the lakes crabs (cangrejo, camaroii) in the oceans lobster (langosta), sea-crab (jaiva), oyster (o=tion), pearl shell (concha perla and nacar). The wealth of Insects is especially and disagree- ably noticeable in the tropics, v/here mosquitoes, flees (pulgas), ticks (reznos), jiggers (nigiias), ants (hormi- gas) and beetles (escarabalos) very much aggravate the «5truggle for existence >. Butterflies (mariposas) exist in great variety There are besides six kinds of bees three other useful insects: the Spanish fly (teo- cuilin etc), cochineal (Coccus cacti — cultivated in Oaxaca for its reddish color) and the ahuaugtle, a water-fly, v/hich in its numerous eggs furnishes the caviar of the Mexicans. Besides many harmless and some poiso:iou5 Worms exist some useful ones as, a native kind of silk worm (bombyx madrono, accord- ing to Humboldt) and the worm (caterpillar) of the 48 century plant (gusano del maguey), another delicacy of ancient and modern Aztecs. The Arachnida are repre-ented in spiders (arafias), tarantulas, centipedes (cicntt)pies or esculopendra) and scorpions (alacranes, especially in Durango and Puebia). Fine Sponges are found in both oceans. The Inhabitants are extremely cosmopolitan and present more interebting contrasts than in other coun- tries. The WHITE Caucasian race is represented espe- cially by the Romantic type in the Spaniards. Still there are representatives of all oiher nations, as French, Americans, English, Germans and Italians. The Spanish born in America call them-elves «Crio- llos> (creolea) and call the o;her Spaniards ironically and all other strangers « Gringos >. The RED American race is still double in numbers of the white and comprehends Indians of different degrees of civdization and of various dialects. So- called csalvajes* with paint and feathers as sole dress- suit only appear on the froniicr. It is seldom that hordes of wandering and discontented Apaches, Co- matiches, Yaquis or IMayos take the war-path, or disturb the peace. In general the Indians are of medium stature and robust. Tiie women to the con- trary are mostly small and plump. Tiie skin is usually of a dark copper red, yet sometimes of a 49 yellow grey. The hair is thick, stiff and raven black. The face seems angular and the cIieek-!)ones are generally prominent. The forehead is straight, broad and low, the chin is pointed. The lar^e Roman nose, supposed to be characteristic of the Aztecs, is by no means so common. Much more frequent is seen the straight but litlle prominent nose, broad under- neath and with hani^itig point. The eyes are dark, sometimes almond-shaped. The mouth is often large with full lips. The men have little beard, which seems fullest below the chin. Hands and feet are well formcvl anJ rather small. Tranquillity and re- serve, stubI)Orness, formality, insincerity, piety and a certain stupidity distinguish, generally speaking, the character of the Mexican Ii:dians. Taste for family life and love of children is almost as pronounced with the Indians as wiih the Jews. The Indians are scattered over the whole country, some are living in the subLrbs of the cities and others in their own villages. In respect to their languages and nu.nbers, (according to F. Pimcntel), they form the following group?: Aztecs of 1.849,766 souls; Olomites 794., 734.; Mistecs and Zapotecs 677,088; Mayas-Quiches 456,283; Tarascans 275.000; Toionacs 90,000; Opatas-Pimas 85,000; Zoques-Mixes 60,000; Chontales 31,000; Madalzincas or Pirandas 5,000; Huaves 3,800; Guai- curas and Cochimi Laimon 2,500 souls, some bands of Seris, Apaches etc, together about 4.V million souls. The MIXED RACES (Castas) form the majority of the populaticn; the most numerous being the In- 5° dians mixed with whites (Mestizos). This mixture is constantly increasing (at the beginning of this century, according to Humboldt ^o% were full blooded Indians, only 2^% mixed). The mixed classes reveal by the yello'.v skin, the thick black hair, dark eyes and prominent cheek bones their Indian blood. The BLACK African race is meagerly represented here by the descendants of the NEGRO-slaves. They, have mixed as well with the Indians (Zambos) as with the whites (Mulatos). They are found most frequently on the coasts. Several hundred CHINESE have lately settled in the southern states and in lower California and have augmented the existing races by the YELLOW Mongolian. Since the beginning of this century the population has more than doubled and since the last decade it has increased about l^ millions or 1 ,9/o. Population in 1793 with Upper California, New Mexico etc: 4.483,680; in 1803: 5.837,100; in 1852 without Upper California and New Mexico: 7.661,919; in 1S89: 11.632,924 inhabitants. About 48;^' are men and 52/^ women, about l9'/o are Europeans, 38", „ Indians and 43°/o Mixed), besides about 230,000 Negroes and 1, 000 Chinese). There are now about 17 persons to each sq: mile. Many thousands of foreigners have settled in Mexico, especially Spaniards (about 10,000), Ame- ricans and English, French, Italians and Germans; from 1828 to 1890 however only 2,04.4 foreigners have been naturalized (about one half of these being Spaniards). The Prevailing Language is the Spanish (cas* 51. tellano) with some dialects and some Indian v/ords, mostly of the Aztec language. The Mexicans pro- nounce for instance «11> just as they pronounce «y», the c and z without lisping, say «po5» instead of «.pues>, instead of «mucho> etc. Many names of places, plants, animals, food and utensils are Aztec, generally more or less corrupted. Thus the name for i^ cent piece is the Aztec word for (tlaco). In geographical names very frequently appear the following endings: and < tlan > signify place, little place; « co » and « pan > mean »in> reiering to place. The «X5« in Indian words ought to be pronounced as English as En- glish . Nearly one third of the inhabitants speak how- ever still about eighty native languages and dialects. A considerable part of these do not know the Spanish. The native language most spoken is the Aztec (me- xicano), considered still among the Indians as the ordinary language of intercourse; then follow Otomite and Mixto Zapotec. (Compare: Francisco Pimentel, Cuadro descriptivo y comparativo de las lenguas in- digenas de Mexico; 3 vol., Mexico 1 873, and J. Epstein Sinoptic Table to this work). The best Spanish grammar in English by Alberto de Tornos: «The combined Spanish method*, New-York 1887; best dictionary (Spanish-English etc); Mariano Velaz- quez (Seoanes, Neuman and Baretti); A « Dictionary of the Spanish and English languages*. New York 1 891; large and abridged edition. Pocket Dictionary 52 by T. C. Bustamante: D'ccionario Ingles-Espafiol etc. Paris 1890. Culture and Society are just as different as the races. According to J. Epstcn (Tabla comparaiiva del grado de instruccion piiblica etc) about 80"^/^ of the population neither know how to read nor write, among the remaining 20'/^ are however many persons of the highest grade of culture. The capacity of the Indians for culture is demonstrated by the celebrated scientists, priests and statesn.en, which have come from this race and of whom some, like Juarez and Diaz, have directed so successfully the helm of state. In their remote villages they preserve their ancient customs in certain festivals and dances (the Cegador, Tehuacanzi, Zempoalxochitl) etc. Most influential, in spile of the minority is the svhite race, which forms with a select number of the mixed and Indian race the best society. Society life in Mexico has many peculiar features; as in the U. S. money is its standard. There are many millionaires, who with certain political leaders form a Very exclusive aristocracy. The principal trails of character of the Mexicans are great formality, amiabiliiy, ho-pitality and benevolence; they are probably as a rule less coarse, but less frank, than the Teutons, believ- ing like Talleyrand, that language has been in- vented to conceal thought . Mexican women are less accomplished than American and are greatly restricted by society rules; they are however very devoted mothers and housekeepers. In spile of the great number of uneducated and poor and the general carrying of fire-arms the criminal rate is not extra- 53 ordinarily high. From the criminal statistics by Dr. A. Penafiel I have calculated the following figures: there are piinislied annually about l8,ooo persons on an avera^^e, or about 0,13;^ of the population; arnong these are g6, 8% Mexicans, 3,2^0 strangers: 85, l'-"/^ are men, HjQ^'q women: 75% are persons who neither read nor write and 73'7o are persons of the age from 18 — 40 years. Most of the criminals are working- men, artisans, servants and merchants, most of the crimes are against person and property. Adultery is commonly practised among the lower classes, who adhere to « free love> and numV)erless sins are com- mitted against sobriety, cleanliness and decency. Gambling is the predominating passion of all Me- xicans. The prevailing Religion is the Roman Catholic. The Church is indeptndant of the State and all other religions are tolerated. The catholic religion has preserved many mediaeval ceremonies and has been enriched by some ancient Aztec customs. The Indians hanlly know the sp^it of tiie Christian creed, but are fanatic observers of the rites and ceiemonies of the Church and sacrifice all their savings for candles, relics, masses and church festivals. In « Our Lady of Guadalupe > (Nuestra Scfiora de Guadalupe) has been created a Mexican mother of God and the patroness of the country. The little of Gua- daLipe is the Mecca and the Lourdes of Mexico. Christian misbionary work in Mexico was the first on the continent of the New World and begun as early as 15 1 7, when on cape Caloche in Yucatan, after 54 the conquest of the Indians, the cleric Alonzo Gon- zalez tratiiformed one of the pagan temples inlo the Christian Cluirch of cNue^tra Senora de los Reme- dios» (our Lady of succor). Here tvvo of the captured Indians were baptized. Soon after the conque-t the MONASTICAL ORDERS (at first, since 1 523, the Franciscans, since 1526 the Dominicans andsince 1 5 32 the Augiutins) undertook the conversion and instruction of the Indians and at first exercised in this way a good influence, till ri- valry among them and the zeal for accumulating earthly possessions became the source of immorality and de- terioration. The Church assumed with time an ex- traordinary power and influence, supported from 1 57 1 to 1820 by the fearful tribunal of the INQUISITION, which introduced again in this country human torture and sacrifice in the most cruel way. In the beginn- ing of this century there were, according to Hum- boldt Irom 10-14,000 priests and monks in Mexico some of them having a greater income than European princes ($6,000 — 130,000 a year), and living in luxury and inmorality. The Church possessed at that time a stock capital from 2| to 3 millions and real estate of about 442 millions of pesos. Each inhabitant had to contribute to the Church during his life on an average from $17.50 to 18,50 (for baptism, marriage, masses, burial etc). The first suppression of cleric-il orders and sequestration of Church property begun in 1767 with the expulsion of the Jesuits, President Juarez dictated in 1857 in Veracruz the suppression of religious orders and the sequestration of Church property. The Laws of the Reform established ift 55 1 874- Dec. 14, the separation of Slate and Church, Since 1 89 1 the Catholic Church is divided into 6 archbishoprics (Mexico, Michoacan, Guadalajara, Mon- terey, Oaxaca and Durango) with 21 bishoprics and the vicariate of Lower California; in i888 there were 10,112 Catholic churches and chapels in Mexico. With the victory of the liberal government Pro- testantism begun to take a foothold in Mexico, aided by Bible and missionary societies of the U. S. Bible agents from the U. S. appeared already during the war (1S46-48) and continued work afterwards. In 1869 the Ciiilian Mr. Henry Riley founded in Mexico a branch of the Church of «Nuestro Senor Jesucristo* under the auspices of the Episcopal Church in the U. S. and with the title of a < bishop ». In the same year he bought the famous church of San Francisco in the City of Mexico to make it the as a dependant colony of Spain and formed once the most extensive country of the world. After a hard struggle of eleven years the mother- land recognized in 1821 the independance of Mexico. The Republic accepted the old Aztec symbol of the City Oi Mexico as Coat of Arms and the three colors green, white and red in vertical stripes as Flag- The liberal Constitution oi February 1857 with its various amendments forms the basis of the rights of the citizens and of the government. It grants equality and liberty to all, declares the separation of Church and State, establishes civil marriage, the right to elect (when over 21 years of age) in an indirect way the highest officers of the State. Military service in the standing army is not obligatory. Foreigners can travel through the country without passport, but according to article 33 the President has the privilege to expel « pernicious strangers » arbitrarily. There exist two great political parties, the Liberals (in power since 1 867) and the Conservatives (guided by the clergy). The present Political Division was started in 1857, establishing in 1884 thirty divisions of various size and importance, in three classes: 27 independent States, 2 dependent Territories and one Federal Dibtrict (the capital). They are subdivided into smaller parts under different names. States and territories are divided into a number of provinces or counties called Canton (C), Departamento (Dep.) Distrito (Dist.) or Partido (P.) and each of these into a number of municipal- ities (Municipalidades and Municipios), Each state and county and municipality has its own capital. The mu- nicipalities consists of a capital (cabecera) and the neighboring communities, classified according to impor- tance into: cities (ciuJades), towns (villas), suburbs, villages (pueblos), large farms (haciendas), small farms (ranches), hamlets (lanchen'as) etc. There are now in Mexico altogeiher 300 provinces wiih 2,135 "^"" nicipaliiies (municipalidades and municipios) or about 25,000 comunilies; among these are 5 cities with more than 50,000 and 1 5 cities with more than 20,000 inhabitants, further 30 communities with more than I( ,000 and about Iio with more than 5,000 inhabi- tants. There are « cities* with less than 2,000 inh. (as Lerma in Mexico) and < villages* with more than 18,000 inh. (as Tinum in Yucatan), The States and Territories are generally divided in respect to their geographical position into four groups: the northern or frontier states (N.), the middle interior states (M.), the southeast states on the Gulf of Mexico (S E.) and the southwest states on the Pacific Ocean (S. W.). The states of Chihuahua and Sonora and the territory of Lower California form the largest divisions: the states of Morelos, Tlaxcala and the Federal District the smallest. They are in alphabetical order with situation (N., M., S. E., or S. W.), area in sq: miles, divisions in counties (C, 59 Dep., Dist, or P., see above) and municipalities (Mu- nicip.) with population (inh.) in 1S89 and capital the following: Aguascaliextes (M), 2,952 sq, m., 4. P., with 8 Municip., 121,926 inh., cap: AguascaUentes. Baja California (N.), territory, 58,373 sq. m.; 2 Dist. and I P. with 8 Municip., 34,668 inh., cap: La Pai. Campeche (S. E.), 18,100 sq, m., 5 P. with 35 Municip., 91,180 inh., cap. Campeche. Chiapas (S. W.), 27,243 sq. m., II Dep. with 126 Municip., 266,496 inh., cap: San Cristobal (founded 1528). Chihuahua (X.), formerly part of Nueva Vizcaya, 87,870 sq. m., 9 Dist. with 56 Municip. (or 55 sections), 298,073 inh., cap: Chihuahua (founded 1539)' Coahuila (N.), 63,619 sq. m., 5 Dist. with 31 Municip., 183,327 inh., cap. Saltillo (founded 1586). Coiima (S. W.), 2,274 sq. m., 3 P. with 7 Mu- nicip., 69,547 inh., cap: Coiima. DiSTRiTO Federal (M.), 463 sq. m., divided into the city and 4 prefectures with 20 Munic. 451,246 inh., cap: City of Mexico (which see). Durango (M.) formerly part of Nueva Vizcaya, 38,237 sq. m., 13 P. with 45 Municip., 265,931 inh., cap: Durango. Guanajuato (M.), 11,399 sq. m., 5 Dep. (31 P.) with 45 Municip., 1.007,116 inh., cap: Guanajuato (founded 1 5 54). 6o Guerrero (S. W.), 25,015 sq. m., 14 Dist. with 62 Municip. 332,887 inh., cap; Chilpancingo. Hidalgo (M.)> created 1869, contains 8,923 sq. m., 14 Dist. with 73 Municip. 494,212 inh., cap: Pa- chuca (which see). Jalisco (S. W.), formerly Nueva Galicia, 31,870 sq. ra., II C. (34 Dep.) with 94 Municip., 1.161,709 inh., cap: Guadalajara (founded 1 542). Mexico (M.), 9,254 sq. m., 15 Dist. with 124 Mu- nicip., 778,969 inh., cap: Toluca (founded about 1520). Michoacan (S. W.), 22,897 ^ '5 Dist. with 77 Municip., 830.923 inh., cap: Morelia (fouuded as Valladolid 1541). Morelos (M.), created in 1869, contains 2,775 -q* m., 6 Dist. with 26 Municip., 151,540 inh., cap: Cuer- navaca (founded about 1520). Nuevo-Leon (N ), 23,809 sq. m., 10 Dist. with 48 Municip., 270,852 inh , cap: Monterey (founded 1596). Oaxaca (S. W.), 35,409 sq. m., 26 Dist. with 493 Municip. (or 671 agencies), 806,845 inh., cap; Oaxaca (founded I5?8). Puebla (M.), 12,212 sq. m., 21 Dist. with 175 Municip, 839,468 inh, cap: Puebla (founded 1533). Queretaro (M.), 3.559 sq. m., 6 Dist. with 18 Municip., 213,523 inh., cap; Queretaro (founded 1531)- San Luis Potosi (M.), 25,335 sq m., 13 P. with 61 57 Municip., 546,447 inh., cap; San Luis Potosi (founded 1583). Sinaloa (S. W.), formerly Nuevo Aragon, 33,697 sq. m., 10 Dibt. wiih lo Municip., 223,684 inh , cap: Culiacan (founded 1 533). Soiiora (X.), 76,960 sq. m., 9 Dist. with 86 Mu- nicip., 150,391 inh., cap: Hermoaiilo. Tabasco (S. E.), 10,080 sq. m., 14 P. with 17 Municip., 114,028 inh, cap: San Jaaii Bautista. Tamaulipas (N.), 32,353 sq. m., 4 Ui=t, with 39 Municip., 189,139 inh., cap: Ciudad Victoria. Tepic (S. W.), territory, created in 1 884, contains 11,224 sq. m., 6 P. with 16 Municip., 130,019 inh., cap: Tepic. Tlaxcala (M.), 1,569 sq. m., 6 Dist. with 33 Mu- nicip., 155,151 inh., cap; Tlaxcala. Veracruz (S. E.), 29,223 sq. m., 18 C. with 197 Municip., 644,157 inh , cap: Veracruz (founded 1519). Yucatan (S. E.), 35,23.) sq. m., 16 P. with 84 Municip., 282,502 inh., cap; Merida. Zacatecas (M.), 24,776 sq. m., 12 P. with 54 Municip., 526,966 inh., cap: Zacatecas (founded 154^}. The twenty MOST POPULATED CiTlES are; City of Mexico (F. D.) 329,535 inh. — Guadalaja- ra (capital of Jal.) 95,000 inh., Puebla (capital of its state), 78,530 inh., San Luis I'otosI (capital), 62,573 inh., Guanajuato (capital), 52,112 inh., Leon (Guanaj.), 47,739 inh,, Monterey (capital of Nuevo- Leon), 41,700 inh., Aguascalientes (capital;, 32.355 inh., 62 Merida (capital of Yuc), 32,000 inh., Oaxaca (capital), 28,827 inh., Colima, 25,124 inh., Pachuca (capital of Hid.), 25,000 inh., — Durango (capiial), 24,800 inh., Celaya (Guanaj.), 24,670 inh., Moielia (capital of Michoac), 23,835 inh., Queretaro (capital), 23,250 inh., Ciudad Guzman (Jal.), :23,205 inh., Sallillo (Coah), 22,801 inh., Alknde (Guanaj.), 21,748 inh., Zacatecas (capital) 20,722 (?) inh. The Federal Government has been modelled after that of the U. S.; it is according to the Con- stitution of 1857 republican, representative and demo- cratic being divided into executive, legislative and ju- dicial power- The seat of the Federal Government is in the City of Mexico; it costs together with the diplomatic representation in 1892 $2,566,882. The President (Ciudadano Presidente) possesses Iha executive power, represents the government and is commander in chief of the army. He is elected indirectly by the people tor a term of four years, beginning Dec. I, can (bince 1S90) be reelected and receives a sahny of $30,003 a year. Every native born, honorable Mexican over 35 years old is eligible) if he does not belong to the clergy and lives in the country. The presidency with private secretary, staff etc, causes an expense of $49,977- Actual Presi- dent; General Porfirio Diaz, born Dec. 15, 1S30 in Oaxaca, first term 1876-S0, second 1 884-88, third 1888-92. 63 The President forms a Cabinet (Gabinete or Con- sejo de Ministros), which consists (since 1891) of seven Departments (Secretari'as del Despacho), directed by seven Secretaries (Secretaries or Ministros), chosen by the President for an indefinite time. They must be native born, honorable Mexicans, over 25 years old and receive $8,000 a year. The Assistant Se- cretary cOficial Mayor > (receiving $4,500), the chief of each bureau «Jefe de la Seccion* (receiving $3,000) etc, are chosen by the Secretary. The cabinet with its various bureaux make an expense (1S92) of $622,091 (Names of departments, actual secretaries etc, see City of Mexico: Useful addresses.) Legislative Power is exercised by the Congress (Congreso), since 1874 divided into two chambers; cCamara de DJputados* and cCamara de Senadore£>. The members of the former are elected by the people, in each state, territory and the Federal District one for each 40,000 inhabitants (and one more, if there is a fraction of more than 20,000 inh.), for a term of two years: there are actually 227 deputies. Each state and the Federal District elect two senators for a term of four years; so that at present there are 56 senators in the house renewing one half of their number every two years — reelection is permitted. Each member of the Congress receives a salary of $3,000 a year. The president of each house is elected monthly l>y its members; the president or vice- president of the Senate becomes in case of emergency President of the Rcrpublic. Congress holds yearly two 64- periods of sessions; Sept. 1 5, to Dec, 15, and April I, to May 15. This representation (with bureaux and treasury) costs $940,147. Judicial Power is invested in the Supreme Court (Suprema Corte de Justicia) consisling of 17 mem- bers (Procurador General de la Nacion, Fiscal and 15 Magistrados) elected indirectly by the people for a term of six years, each one receiving a salary of $5, coo. Reelection is allowed. The Supreme Court is assisted by 8 Judges of the Circuit Courts and 38 Judges of the District Courts. This power makes an expense of $476,784. Diplomatic Representation is entertained in America with the United States, Central America, Brazil and Argentine Republic; in Europe with Great Britain, Germany, Italy, France, Belgium, Russia, Spain and Portugal; in x\sia with Japan — represented by II Embassadors and 31 Consuls. The embassa- dors receive a salary from $Io,OOI to 19,001; the Consuls $2,000 — 5,000, This representation causes an expenditure of $477,883. There is a special financial office in London, the financial agent receiv- ing $10,000. The State Government is independent in interior affairs and similar to that of the Union, consisting of three powers, represented by the Governor (Gobernador), the Congress and the Supreme Tribunal of Justice. The Provinces (Distritos etc), are governed by the Pre- fect (Jefe politico); the Municipalities by the city 65 council (Ayuntamiento), represented in the Mayor (Presidente Municipal or Alcalde). A considerable Standing Army (Ejercito perma- nente) and small Navy (Marina) sustains the govern- ment. The former consists of volunteers. It counts no generals (generales de brigada and de division, receiving $4., 500 to 6,000 a year) about 2,750 oincers J^alfereces, tenientes, capitanes, mayores and coroneles, receiving §722 — 2,715 per year) 30,000 men receiv- ing 38-99 cts. a day) with 10,000 horses and mules and 140 cannon. The main body of this Army is dividv^d into I battalion of Engineers (l22 officers and 721 men), 30 battalions of Infantry (1,454. offi- cers and 17,712 men), 14 regiments of Cavalry (533 officers, 6,224 men, 5,894 horses), 4 battalions of Artil- lery (each of 40 officers, 332 men, 200 mules) and some smaller recruiting parties: battalion of invalids, ordnance department, hospital service, military school, squa- dron of the train, corps of gendarmes, Rurales, ^^.^''^fe^.tes etc). A reserve of about 100,000 men with 10,000 horses and mules is counted on. The garriaons are divided into II military zones. There are old-fashioned fortresses in Veracruz (Ulua), Pue- bla (Guadalupe and Loreto) and Acapulco, a mditary school in Chapaltepec, two Marine schools in Cam- peche and Mazatlan, an arsenal (Maestranza), a mili- tary prison (in the convent of Santiago), a manufac- tory of arms and a foundry in the City of Mexico and several powder mills near this place. A very interesting Corps is that of the (a kind of gendarmes), appearing in the yellowish leather suit 66 and the large gray Mexican felt hat like mediaeval hall)er(liers. Tliey are as peculiar to Mexico as the «Highlanders» to Engls nd or the «Bersaglieri> to Italy. The Navy is divided into three departments and counts only six vessels (with the four cannon-boats Demo- crata, Libertad, Tndependencia and Zaragoza), 93 officers and 350 mariners. Army and Navy require about 1/3 of the totalgovernmentexpenses($l2. 572,952). Public Instruction (see: Culture, p. 52) is very slowly progrebsing, as a majority of the population (Indians and mixed race) is very indifferent. Although it is obli- gatory in most of the states yet the attendance is very poor, only about one third of the children in the school age appearing and not all of these regularly. The schools are maintained by the Federal Govern- ment, by the individual states and by the municipali- ties. According to I. Epstein (Tabla comparativa etc) Mexico contributes proportionately more money for public instruction, than either lielgium, France or Austria. Several benevolent societies too support schools, as the Lancastrian, some Catholic and some Protestant societies. The method of teaching generally applied is the so-called < mutual system » and in some schools the objective method. In 1S8S there existed in Mexico, according to Dr. A. Penafiel, 6,932 pri- mary and 81 high schools with 7,5oi teachers and 420,618 pupils (about 30% girls), expenses of which amounted to $3,759,815. Among the high schools are 26 seminaries, 31 colleges, several special acade- mies of law, medicine, engineering, mining, agriculture, 67 commerce and fine arts. Public instruction is aided (ill 1SS9) by 53 public LIBRARIES with about 400,000 volumes, 19 Museums (of antiquities and natural history) and Art-Galleries, 18 Observatories and 58 Scien- tific and Literary Societies. Journalism as well as printing in ivlexico is the eldest en this continent. The first printer was Juan Pablos, who published religious books before 1 5 35, the first newspapers appeared in the lyih century a^s o^sible. Many branches of Agriculture, Industry and Commerce are unknown or very little explored. Thus even some of the raw materials have to be imported (cotton eic), which could be easily raised in sufficient quantity. The Indians and a great number of those of mixed blood work only for their meager support and even do not understand to take advantage of acquired ca- pital. They live like their ancestors in miserable huts, without any comfort and even without decent clothing. Their principal nourishment is corn bread (tortillas) atid beans (frijoles), seasoned uiih red pepper (chile) or tomatoes (jitomates) 'and their fa- vorite drink is the foaming wine of the century plant (pulque). The Indians dislike to work steadily, to save for emergency and are not ambitious to better their condition. Yet their misery is not always their own fault. The wages are too small to stimulate 69 vorking propensities and the Church encourages them to sacrifice time and money in the celebration of nunerous festivals and masses. Tte Revenues of the Federal Government are conitf.nt!)^ incrcnsing and alllioi^;h the expenses are now cinsiderably higher, there is anticipated this year for the fir^t time a small surplus. The chief source tf Revenues of the Federal Government- is ihe import duties, which amount to over one- half of its total income; then follows in importan- ce the stamp tax and a certain ticket tax on R. R's, then a tax on real estate, patents, consumption (porta/go) inheritance etc. of- the dependent Federal District and the Territories; further a tax on sa- laries of the government employees, of certain articles of export (woods and archil), of navigation, fishery, the fees for consulate documents etc. There is too a small income from Mail and Telegraph service, Mints, printing olfices of the government, National property and lottery, schools of Agriculture and Correction etc. During the last twenty years the revenues amounted on an average to about 21 million pesos, in 1870-71 to $16,033,050 in 1880-S1 to $23,172,724. in 1888-S9 $32,745,982. The principal revenues of the STATES consist in the taxes on real estate, on consume (alcabalas) etc and 25% of the revenues of the Federal Govern- nntnl, amouutip.g altogether during the las decade (on an average) to about 10 million pesos a year. Although the revenues of the states have considerably •70 increased their financial condition is however net equally prosperous, as in Yucatan, Jalisco etc. TTie Municipalities levy some direct taxes on prope/ty consume etc, receiving during the last ten years a/^out a total of 6 million pesos annually. The Expenses of the Federal Governmen"/ have always been greater than the income. The largest sums are spent by the Federal (Government for the maintenance of the standing army, for the amorti- sation and for the interest of the public debt (about l/6), further for mail and telegraph service, custom houses, military pensions, subventions of R. R's. etc. According to the budg'ets the expenses during the last two decades amounted, on an average, to about 25^ million pesos a year, in 1870-71 to $20,879,383 in 1880-81 to $23,128,219 in 1891-92 to $38.4.77,365. The expenses of the individual States have been somewhat higher than their income^ the MUNICIPALI- TIES manage to balance. The Public Debt of the Federation has lately been considerably augmented by the subvention of R. R's. The cliief foreign creditors of Mexico are Eng- *land and Germany; the French loan of 300 million pesos, made by the last empire (Maximilian) has not been recognized. Thus the total debt amounted in 1890 $126,951,184; in 1892 the government has to pay 6*^/^ interest on 823 million and 3'7o on 32 million viz: (with some due payments) $6,810,000. The indi- vidual St.\tes and some larger Municipalities have separate debts. 71 The Taxes, which are mostly indirect, according to consume, are comparatively rather high as they are principally paid l)y the few wtaltliy; they are levied by the Federal Government, by the States and by the communities. The National Wealth of Mexico has been roughly estimated at 2,000 million pesos: Real Estate amounted in 18S9 to $4.96.072,358. The TOTAL PRODUCTS of Agriculture, Industry and Commerce were estimated in 1880 at $511,540,166; in 1S90, the government possessed 28.307,892 acres of uncultivated lands. Colonisation has not been veiy successful in spite of the many advantages which ihe country and the government offer to immigrants. The go- vernment and some private companies have started twenty colonies in various places of the country, con- sisting mostly of Mexicans with some Americans, Italians, French and Fngli^hmen. They contained (in 1888) only 6,319 individuals. There are at present 16 Banks, which have emitted about 22 I '3 million pesos in paper money. The most important of these are: The National IJank (Banco Nacionalde Pvlexico) with a capital of 8 million pesos paid; International and Mortgage Bank (Banco Internacional e Hipotecario de Mexico) with 3| million pesos; London Bank of Mexico and South America (Banco de Londres y Mexico, established 1864.) with l^ million pesos. Agriculture (compare I. part: p. 20—4.8: Vegetable Products and Animal Life) occupies more than half of the population, although much of the country is not at all cullivuted and some parts not economically. The Az- 72 tecs had already acquired a certain accomplishment in this field, building aqueducts for irrigation and em- ploying the so-called swimming islands (chinampas). Mexico vvilh ils variety of climates and its fertile soil ought to be one of the most important agricultural countries of the world. FrCbh fruit, vegetables and flowers never fail in the market, as strawberries, bana- nas, ananas, lettuce, siring beans, peas, roses, violets etc. The country is especially rich in nutritous roots und textile plants. The indifference of a great part of the people however (especially the Indians), the want of capital, the poor wages of the farm hands, the high prices of freight and the ignorance of agricultural science hinder the proper development. It is true, farming and cattle raising are in some cases pursued on a larger scale than in most other countries and with the aid of all the latest inventions, but the Indians and those of mixed blooil are generally content to work only in the most piimitive way, the land necessary for their support. There are farms (haciendas) in Mexico as extensive as European principalities, too large to be properly managed. The large estate for farming is called « hacienda de labor*, for cattle raising « hacienda de ganado*, the smaller farms are called . There are actually more than 5,700 haciendas and over 13,800 ranches in Mexico. The proprietors of the larj;e farms (hacendados), like the Iri^h landlords, hardly ever live on the farm, but trust the entire management to a superintendent (admi- nislradur). The laborers (peones) work in groups under an overseer (capitan) and are kept in a certain 73 slavery (peonaje), especially in the south, in Yucatan etc. They receive from 25-50 cts. a clay and often some rations besides, boys get from 6-18 cts. The soil is rarely manured and must often produce durng the year, two and three crops. Artificial irrigation is much in use, especially on the large farms of the Central Plateau; daring the rainy season the water is gathered in reservoirs (presas) for the supply during the Winter. Some farms possess very expensive and extensive aqueducts (as Zempoala in Mexico). The ploughing is still generally done with the primitive wooden instrument, drawn by oxen, which only furrows the soil, instead of turning it up. In the hot zone \he ground is rarely ploughed at all; there, it is sufficient to bore simply in the old Aztec style with an iron puinted Stick the necessary holes in the ground, in which the seeds are cast. Harvesting is done with the sickel (fake or machete); harrowing with a ihorn-lnish; the threshing on a paved place (era) by means of horses or mules, which tread out the grain. Many of the large farms have their own mills. The harvest is often celebrated with a feast and some ears of corn are generally presented to the patron saint. The third of May (Santa Cruz) is a special festival of the wine-growers (llachiqueros) and the fifteenth (San Isiilro Labrador) of the farmers. Cattle raising is principally carried on in the large «haciendas> — the Indians are generally too poor to undeitake it. The mo^t important domestic animals as cattle, horses, donkeys, sheep, goats, swine were introduced by the conquerors. Although Mexico pos- 74 sessed wild cattle in the buffalo, further wild goats, swiae and sheep, poultry, geese and ducks the Indians did not understand doineslicating the same; they con- tented themselves in keeping dogs and turkeys; some of the former (as the techichi) serving too as food. As the farmers are unable to cultivate all their land, they are glad to use some for pasture. There are many estates with over one thousand and some with over lo and 20 thousand head of cattle, or from 8-lo,ooo horses and mules, or with a thousand she stands (an inclosure of stones or logs) with some sheds. Here the young calves are sheltered and the cows are milked. The cattle are often treated to salt and at least once a year driven to the corral. The branding of calves and cattle (herradero) and slaughtering (matanza) are the most important events and festivals — generally celebrated after the rainy season. The great profit of cattle, sheep and goat-raising is in the sale to 75 butchers; the milk is little utilized. Therefore butter and cheese are rare and dear; although a very good quality is produced in the valley of Toluca. The beef is conserved by drying it in the sun (tasajo or sesina); the firm tallow of sheep and goats is sold in masses. The horses belong mostly to the Andalusian race, which is of middle size, strong and enduring. The best cattle of the country is the old Spanish breed cZamora»; a strong race of buffalo are the €Caravaos> of Morelos. The raising of beasts for bull fights is a Mexican specialty, most famous being those of the hacienda de Atenco, in the valley of Toluca. The sheep are not of the best quality; Me- rinos have only lately been introduced. The keeping of BEES for wax and honey was already cultivated by the ancient Mexicans and is still an important in- dustry. Fishery occupies a great part of the Indian pop- ulation. The ta-te for pisciculture has only lately developed, encouraged by the government. A trial fish-park has been established near Texcoco in 1 89 1. Oysler-dredging and sponge-fishery are still little cultivated. Pearl-fishing was already practised by the Aztecs and was taken up by the Spaniards in 1 587 in California. The whaling of the ccachalote> be- gun in the Pacific (near California) after the year 1788. The COCHINEAL-CULTURE IS as old as history in Mexico. It is at present mostly limited to the state of Oaxaca and has much declined in importance (in 1S02 the export amounted to 10,633 Cwt., worth 76 S3-368,557)- Althongh even Cortes introduced the SILKWORM nnj the mulberry tree, this industry is still in its infancy. Tliere are government establishments for the cultivation of silkworms (tscuelas de sericultfira) in Texcoco, Tenancingo etc. The most important Industry is the extraction, reduction and coinatje of precious metals (see I. part: Mineral Products, p. lS-20), especially the MIXING of silver and gold. There are about goo mining districts (minerales) with a'Dout 1,500 mines (minas) but not all of them are worked; farther several reduction works (haciendas de beneficio) and II mints. The yearly product ion of precious metals during the last decade was on an average about 30 millions of pe^os of which 26 13 millions are coined arid 26 millions are exported in coins, bullion or ore. The total production since the conquest is about 4,000 millions. Fron. 1537 — 1890 have been coined over 3,377i mil- lions of pesos. Over 100,000 men are employed in mining. The Spaniards begun mining as soon as they be- came masters of the country. The fir.-t mining dis- tricts were those of Ta\co (1522) and Pachuca, then followed Zacatecas (1540) and Guanajuato (1548). The most prosperous mines are at present those of Sonora (placeres), Chihuahua (native silver), Pachuca, Guanajuato and Zacatecas. Some of these mines have been worked for centuries. Many are furnished with the most improved machinery. The deepest shaft is at present that of the mine San Pedro (164.5 ^^0 ^" Pachuca. The first mint was founded in 1537. 77 I" 1557 *^^ miner Bartolome Medina invented in Pachuca the peculiar, very simple and saving < court- process > of amalgamation ( beneficio de patio ), which to the present lime is most in use (73,4-3;^ of the ore is reduced in this way). These reduction works or « haciendas de beneficio» appear with their h gh walls, towers and draw-bridges like mediaeval castlea. They are generally built along a river or brook and consist of various buildings and court- yards wiih dwelliiigs, chapel, laboratories and barns. The finest are in Guanajuato — Zacatecas and Fres- nillo (Zacaiecas) — Pachuca in the valley of Mexico and Real del Monte (Hidalgo); some of ihem are worth half a million of pesos or more. An explanation of the mining and the c court process > you will find in the description of Pachuca (see; Excursions through the ValU-y). Besides this Mexictn process all the other systems of reduction are found, as the old smelting process (beneficio de fandicion or de fuego), the process of lixiviation ( b de lixiviacion) the Ame- rican panning process (b. de panes) and the German ton process (b. de tonel) of Freiberg. Although the smelling process is probably the safest and simplest it is at present not as profitable as the Mexican system, on account of the high prices lor fuel. The € court process! requires about 3-6 weeks and a loss of 8'7o' ^^^ pantiing 4-6 hours and a loss of 2o'7o, the Freiberg system 4 -5 days and a loss of about I2°'„. ' - The first MiXT of Mexico was established in its capital in the year 1 5 57 at the corner of Calle 78 Sur 5, and the Plaza de la Constltucion, next to the old city hall; fiom which place it was transferred in 1569 to the I^ational Palace (the building now occupied by the National Museum, which see). Till 1810 this was the only mint, now exist eleven, which are mo-tly rented to private companies. The most important are in the City of Mexico (which see), Zacatecas (established in 1810), Guanajuato (1812) and San Luis Potosi (1827). Coined money was introduced by the conquerors; the ancient Mexicans exchanged the goo'ds generally in the wny of dicker. Gold-dust, thin copper-plates in the form of «T», pieces of tin and beans of cocoa formed however a kind of currency. The first money coined in Mexico (mo- neda macuquina 1537-1731) was irregular, made with the hammer and marked with a cross, a castle, two lions and the initials of the king. Since 1 732 it is of regular, circular form. From 1732-71 it was marked with the coat of arms of Spain and the columns of Hercules (therefore called moneda columnaria); from 1772-1821 with the bust of the king (moneda debusto). Since 1824 it contains the eagle and the glorious Phrygian cap. The coinage of copper money was started in 1814. From 18S2-84. nickel money was introduced. From 1 5 37 to June 1 890 were coined in all the 15 mints, which existed or still exist: $3,243-574,687 in silver, $123,248,406 in gold, $6,530,642 in copper and $4,000,000 in nickel, together $3,377-35 3-735- l^he annual coinage only amounted during the colonial period ( 1 5 37-1 82 1) lo about 79 7h million, during the independent period (1S22-90) to 21 1/3 million pesos. Manufacture is still very imperfectly represented and generally exercised on the smallest scale; the total production is estimated at about 250 million pesos. In 188S there were 98 large manufactories of cotton, consuming about 260,000 Cwt. of colton and pro- ducing goods at a worth of about 4 million pesos; the largest is the c Hercules > near the city of Quere- taro. There were further 1 6 large manufactories of woolen goods, 2 of porcelain, 7 paper-mills (which iurnish all the printing paper) and numerous manu- factories of sugar (trapiches, with distilleries ot alcohol and brandy of the molasses), oil (of beneseed, linseed, pea-nut, castor oil bean, olive and coco-nut), soap, candles, wax-matches, hats, cigars and cigarettes, choc- olate, bweat-mcats, wine (of the century plant, grapes, quinces and blackberries), dis tilleries ot alcohol and brandy (from sugar-cane, century plant and grapes), breweries, flower-mills, tanneries etc. In 1880 were produced cotton and woolen goods for ${4,000,000, flour for $13,463,833; pulque or wine of the century plant for $4.-589,628; grape wine for $2,662,671; alcohol and brandy of sugar cane (aguardiente and refino) for $2,052,150; ) etc. Among the peculiar Mexican manufacts is most conspicuous the POTTERY m Aztec style and decoration. The potters of Cholula (Puehla) and Tonala (Jalisco) were as famous in the time of the conquest as now are those of Puebla and Guadalajara. In the latter place are made grayish, soft- baked, unglazed but polished and fragrant vessels w'th rich colors, silver and gold;^ in Puebla a fine porcelain- like ware with thick tin-glaze, black or with a decoration of strong colors in underglaze. In the latter place well- colored glazed tiles are made too for building materia!. Almost every district has its own characteri^lics. As glass and porcelain is very dear in Mexico earthen ware is stiil commonly used for all kinds of dishes and vessels and even for dolls and toys. A c riosity of the latter are the phantastic animals called , are made Si especially fine in Tenancingo; the «zarapes> for men in Saltillo and S^n Miguel Allende. The finest < sombre- ros*, the large brimmed and high-crowned HATS with cord and tassel of gold or silver, are made in the city of Mexico, worth up to $500. Curious leather work are as well the Mexican SADDLES with h:gh pommel and rich ornamentation of precious metals and furs, as the old Aztec dossers of hides (pellacalli or petacas). The shell of the armadillo is used to make a kind of GUITAR. The old Aztec FEATHER MOSAIC is still made in the state of Michoacan (birds and landscapes on cards). Especially fine work in TORTOISE SHELL is done in Guadajara (Jalisco). The rich ornamation of gourds for bowls (JICARAS) is an ancient art, which still survives in Guerrero. Peculiar SWEETMEATS («liilces) of milk and sugar, a kind of marsh-pane, are prepared in Celaya; a stiff jam of guava, quince, ananas etc in Morelia; of white sweet potatoes in Puebla, of a certain cactus (biz- naga) in San Luis PotOsi; a kind of «nougat< in Que- retaro and delicious calabashes in Veracruz. The juice of tlie century plant furnibhes by fermentation the wine of the country called « PULQUE » or c tlachique* and by distillation the brandy called « tequila > or cmezcal>. The best puhjue is prepared in the man- ufactories (tinacales) of Apam (which see: Excursions through the Valley). Commerce, especially that of exterior has been very progressive during the last decade, but there is still ample field for exploration. The interior commerce 82 is mostly carried on in very small proportions, which is demonstrated by innumerable small stores (tiendas and cajones). It is somewhat impeded by the local taxes of the individual slates (alcal)alas or porlazgos): but efforts are made to remedy this evil, I'he exte- rior commerce is irritated by the vacilations of Mexican money in the foreign market. Very much in vogue s the commission business in Mexico. The govern- ment has established seventy CUSTOM-HOUSES (Aduanas) at the boundaries (A. terrestres) and at the coasts (A. maritimas), for the collection of duties on certain articles of import and export. The most important are those in Veracruz, Ciudad Juarez (Chihuahua), Progreso (Yucatan), Mazatlan (Sinaloa), Nuevo Laredo (Tamaulipas), Porfirio Diaz (Coahuila), Tuxpam (Ve- racruz) etc. The Export has always been larger than the Import. During the colonial time they were both confined to Spain and its American colonies, now they are unlim- ited. The moit extensive commercial intercourse exists with the U. S. (about 15 years ago it was with England), than follow England (E.) France (F.), Germany (G.) and Spain (S.). The United States receive especially silver, gold and lead, cattle and hides, pearl shells, honey sisal hemp, coffee, cabinet and dye woods, vanilla, rubber, sapota-gum, archil, Mex- ican beans, fruits and sar^aparilla. They introduce espe- cially cotton and wool en goods, furs, paper, swine, comest- ibles and drugs, furniture and hardware, glass iron, steel and copper goods, coa', machines, carriages and arms. England receives especially silver, gold, copper and 83 opals, salted meat, sisal hemp cabinet and dye woods, tobacco, sugar, rubber and indigo; it introduces cot- ton, linen, hemp, woolen, iron and steel goods. France receives especially silver and gold, roots of zacaton, indigo etc; it introduces comestibles, woolen, cotton, silk, gold, silver and copper goods, hardware, furs, paper and drugs, GERMANY ♦see ives especially lead, hides, bones, guano, pearl shells and pearls, sisal-hemp, cabinet and dye woods, tobacco, coffee, root of couch grass or zacaton, indigo, archil liidia-rubber, sarsaparilla, jalap etc; it introduces cotton, woolen, iron and steel goods, hardware, paper, drugs etc. Spain receives some coffee, indigo, pearl shells, sisal hemp, dye woods and great quai. titles of Mexican beans and chick peas; it introduces especially comes- tibles and paper. The principal article of export were always silver and gold, of import comestibles, hardware and dry goods. In the coarse of this cen- tury export hrs tripled and import quadrupled. During tiie years lygb-iSao the export amounted on an average yearly to $21,523,197 and the import to $ 10.364,237; in the last decades both have augmented moat remarkably. In 1 880-8 1 the export amounted to $29,928,693; in 1888-89 the export to $60,158,423 the import to $40,024,894. Among the articles of export only a few are dutiable (as some cabinet and dye woods, archil etc); among the articles of import about 1/3 are free of duty the other 2/3 pay on an average II/13 of their worth as duty. Since Nov. I, 1 89 1 there is a new tariff of duties. During the last decade (1880-90) the Export has S4 doubled: it amounted yearly on an average, during this time to $45,859,889. To this sum the minerals contributed about 29 millions, the vegetable products about 13 millions and the animal products about 3 millions. The greatest part of export the U. S. re- ceived (being on an average 35, in 1888-90 even 2/3) then follow EngHiiid (1/4), France (2 25) and Ger- many (1/25), from the remaing 3/Ioo Spain received the most. The main articles of export (with their principal destiny) and average amount were dur- ing the past decade the following; A. — Mineral Products; Silver: in coins (to U. S., E., F.) . . .$20,820,670 in bullion, ore etc, (to U. S., E.) . 5.827,624 Gold : in coins (10 U. S., F.) 391,665 in bullion, ore etc. (to U. S., E., F.). 44.9,940 Silver and gold mixed 163,093 Lead (1885-90, to U. S., G.) 453,291 Copper (1885 90, to E.) 441,745 Coal (to U. S.) 175,162 Marble (to U. S.) 30,893 Precious stones (to U. S., F., E.) . . . 25,375 Further were exported in small quanlities: salt, lime, gypsum, platina, tin, zinc, asphalt or chapopo- te etc. B. — Vegetable Products: Fibre of the century plant or sisal-hemp (to U. S., E. S.); flenequen $4,374,753 Ixtle 390,453 Ropes (jarcia) . . . 148,408 S5 Coffee (to U. S., G., F., E.) 2.461,146 Wood for construction, cabinet and dye (to E., U. S., G.) , . 1.717,219 Vanilla (to U. S., F.) 601,441 Tobacco (to E., Holland, U. S., G., F.). . 584.529 Sapota gum or chicle (to U. S.) . . . . 255,935 Roots of couch grass or zacaton (to F., G., U. S.) 232,444. Sugar, white — and brown or piloncillo (to E., U. S.) .• • • I75>488 Inclin-rubber or hule (to U. S., E., G.). • I3+J30 Mexican beans or frijoles (to S., U. S., E.). 105,607 Indigo (to G., Columbia, F., E., U. S.) . . 83,280 Fruits, as oranges, lemons etc (to U. S.). . 85,149 Archil (to U. S., G.) 77,677 -Sarsaparilla (to U. S., G.) 56',772 Jalap or purga (to U. S., G.) 26,521 Further were exported in small quantities Indian corn, barley, rice, starch and flour, vegetables, red pepper or chile, chick peas, spices, cocoa, conserved fruits or dulce, coco-nuts (coquito de aceite), plants for green houses, grass etc. C. — Animal Products: Hides of various animals (to U. S., G., Columbia, S.) $1,861,388 Cattle and horses (to U. S.) 494,745 Honey, (to U. S.) , . . 83,075 Wool (to U. S.) 81,400 Pearl shells and pearls (to G., U. S.) , 74,776 Bristles to U. S.) 59,620 S6 Guano (18S5-90, to G., U. S.)- . . . 29,554 Bones and horns, (to U. S., F., G.) . . 10,702 Cocheneal or grana (to U. S ) .... 9>285 Further wer'e exported small quantities of fresh and salted meat, bee wax, feathers, tortoise shells, sponges etc. D.— Among VARIOUS OTHERS ARTICLES there were also exported drugs and medicines and some manufact- ures, as hats etc. In 1 888- 1889 the principal ARTICLES OF IMPORT (with the main countries of introduction) and the value of goods we.-e; Cotton goods (from U. S., E, F., G) . .^7. 534,089 Comestibles (from U. S , F., S., Italy). . 4.893,706 Drugs (from U. S., F., G.) 1.697,830 Woolen goods (from F., E., U. S., G.) . 1.613,186 Iron and steel ware (from U. S., E., G., F.) 1.510,130 Paper (from U. S., S., F., G., Italy.) . . 1.352,14;? Silk goods, pure and mixed (from F.) . . 788,581 Linen and hemp goods (from E., G.) . . 674,029 Hardware (Merceria, from U. S., G., F.) . 658,854. Glass and porcelain (from U. S., F., G.) , 607,727 Copper ware (from U. S., F,, G.) , , . 593,167 Machines (from U. S.) 539,582 Woolen goods, furniture etc (Irom U. S. G.) 473,684 Furs (from U. S., F., G.) 414,10 Gold, silver and platina ware (from U. S., F., G.) 320,844 Arms and munition (from U. vS.). . . . 280,453 Carriages (from U. S.) 213,796 Further were exported in smaller quantities stone 87 and earthen- ware (from F., U. S., Italy SSi,8l6); lead, tin, zinc ware (from G., F., E.) $75,96g and various other dutiable goods (from U. S., G., S., F,) $2,193,967. All the above mentioned articles, (mounting to $26.5 18,664) paid $22.4.77,963 duty. Woolen, glass and porcelain, linen, hemp and silk goods paid more than the amount of their worth. The goods free of duty were worth $13,506,230; coming mostly from the U. S. and England, further from Spain, France and Germany. Traffic has also been in Mexico the promoter of National Economy. The necessity of its improvement has been especially felt here, as there are but few good roads (camino real or carretero). The appreciation of Railroads begun in 1S37 with the planning of a line from Mexico to Veracruz, but this was not carried into execution until 184.2. In 1851 there was completed but a short track of about two miles (Veracruz — San Juan), to which another concessionary party added three miles more in length, (from Me- xico to Guadalupe). In 1868 an Engli-h Company undertook the completion, which look place in 1872, Dec. 31. This is one of the finest, dearest and most picturesque R. R's. in tlie world: the 293 miles cost- ing $36,319,526, of which ^ was paid by the govern- ment. In 1877 the ), which contains the principal CHURCH ( catedrale or parroquia ), the GOVERNMENT PALACE (palacio de gobierno) or the CITY-HALL (pa- lacio municipal) etc. The lower story of the latter buildings is usually formed by arcades (portales or par'an), which are the center of business. This < plaza > serves as general t breathing place* and in smaller towns also as MARKET (plaza or mercado). Sundays and feast-days the promenaders are treated here to a FREE CONCERT of popukr and classic music. Most of the cities possess a little park, called Alameda. 93 and a promenade or Paseo, where likewise concetis are 5:iven on certain days. The Streets (calles and callejones) are rather broad and straight, have narrow high sidewalks and a gutter through the center. Each block has its own name, which however, in smaller places is very little known. The main-street is ge- nerally designated as (lady) with the fine «man- tilla. instead of a hat; or in the shabby Indian cpeon> (laborer), covered with his dirty-white mu.lin clothes and the dusty « sombrero, of palm-straw; or in the poor, bare- footed Aztec girl, wrapped up in ancient fa.hion and 94 in a very unsatisfactory way, as concerns decency and hygiene. Curious figures are too, the leather-dressed water carriers (aguadores), the < strong headed* porters (carg adores), the vendors of swealmeats (dulcero), fruit (frutero), ice-cream (nevero) etc. Not less peculiar scenes offer the caravans of little over-loaded donkeys (bur- ros), the street-cars, drawn by mules, carrying in second class a crowd of Indians, or in the spw^cial car coffins and goods. As every-day life in Mexican cities is very quiet the turmoil of a Festival (fiesta) or fair (fe- ria) is the more striking and remarkable. Some of these are very characteristic and are visited by thousands of Indians, as the fair of San Juan de los Lagos^ Chalma, Mazalepec, Guadalupe -Hidalgo and Ameca- meca. Country-Scenes too offer many peculiarities in the castlc-like *haciendas>, the idyllic water-mills (molinos), the quaint INDIAN VILLAGES (pueblos) of straw-huts (jacales), with high gable roofs, enclosed by cactus fences, surrounded by the curious fields of century plant (magueyales) or prickly pears (tunales), or by luxu- rious little gardens (huerta>) of bananas, palms, melon trees, oranges etc. Especially curious and picturesque are the MINING-TOWNS, clinging to the slopes, surrounded by fortress-like reduciion works, as in Zacaiecas, Guana- juato, Pachuca etc. Most interesting and inviting is the romantic City of Mexico; very cosy Guadalajara the < queen of the Occident*, Puebla, the « city of churches* and cheer, ful are Toluca (the Munich of Mexico), San Luis Potosf the Chicago of M.), Quereiaro — (the city of Christmas plays and sweet potatoes) etc; healthy and idyllic are the 95 cities of Aguascalientes (nainetal balhs), Cuernavaca, Jakpa (the city of flowers), Oaxaca, Taxco etc. Ancient Ruins of Mexican castles, palaces and dwellings, or of temples and artificial mounds (pyra- mids) are found all o/tr the country, hidden in the woo'is or rocky ravines in a state of greater or less dilapidation. Although there exists the office of an Inspector of Antiquities (Mr. Leopoldo Batres), his work is very limited by want of means for the conservation of objects. Valuable statues and hieroglyphics lie scat- tered about, which could be easily transferred to Mex- ican Museums, making these a more attractive point of interest and National wealth (see City of Mexico, National Museum; Teotihuacan, Tcxcoco, etc.) The largest and most important ruins are Irom North to South in the following slates: SoNORA (San Miguel, Moctezuma), Chihuahua (*Casas Grandes), Durango (Pueblo Chichimeca), Zacatecas (Sombrerete, *Quema- da, Teul, Juchipila), Queretaro (*Mineral del Doctor) Hidalgo (*rula,Tulancingo), Michoacan (Tzintzuntzan), Mexico (Malinalco, Dos Rios, *San Juan Teotihuacan, •near Texcoco), Federal District (Chapultepec, Cerro de Ixtapalapan, Xico, Xochimilco etc), Guerrero (Co- yuca, Tlapa), Morelos (*Xochicalco, Yautepec, *Te-- poztlan), Puebla ( * Cholula, Metlatoyaca, Tehua- can etc), Tlaxcala (near its capital), Veracruz (in the north: I'dnuco, Tantoyuca, El Castillo, Pa- pantla; in the south Iluatusco, Zempoala, San Andres (*) PlacoB and obj ets marked vrith. * are the most remar- kable. 96 Tuxtla etc), Oaxaca (Teotitlan, Monte Alhan, Tepeji, Xoxo, *Mitlan, Tehuantcpec, Piiente de Clihuistan), Tabasco (Comalcalco), Chiapas (*Palenque, Lorillard) Yucatan (*Tixkokob Acanech, *Itzamal, *Chichen- Itza etc). Indian Life and ancient cnstomes are still preserved •with more or less purity in nrany villages, but they can now only be safely observed in a veiy few pla- ces, as in the suburbs of the City of Mexico (Canal de la Viga) and in some places of Michoacan, Morelos (Jojulla, Xoxococla ), Veracruz ( Amatlao ), Oaxaca etc. Peculiar Festivals: Januaury i, New-years day (Ano nuevo): pilgrimage after sun— rise to the sanctuary of Guadalupe-Hidalgo. Jan. 6, Epiphany (Los Santos Reyes): jolly family festival with election of king and queen by means of the bean-cake (rosea de reyes). Jan. 12, fair and mass in Guadalupe-Hidalgo. *Jan, 17, Saint Antony's day (San Antonio Abad): during^ several weeks blessing of the animals; in the City of Mexico before the little church of Santa Cruz Aca- tlan. February 2, Candlemass (Candelaria): church and family festival with awakening of the Saviour, < balls of the god- fathers* (bailes de compadres) etc; in Ta- cubaya, Tlacotalpam etc animated fair with gambling. Febr. 5, state festival to commemorate the promulga- tion of the constitution in 1 857. Lent; Tuesday and Sunday church-services with sermon — public masque- rades in the theatres; on cmardi grass > promenade (in the Paseo de la Reforma 4-6 p. m.); in the country 97 throwing of egg-shells (cascarones). Also on the four succeeding Sundays masquerades take place, called: Pinata, Tentacion, Moza and Vieja. Ash -Wednesday ( Miercoles de Ceniza ); blessing with ashes in ihe churches; pilgrimage to *Amecameca. Friday before Palm-Sunday (Vicrnes de Dolores); flower festival in the City of Mexico (Alameda and Canal de la Viga)i very curious ^Indian fair in Mazatepec (Morelos) with the dance of the mourners in the church, the repre- sentation of an Indian battle-drama (Keto), g;ambling etc. Palm-Sunday (Domingo de Ramos): blessing of the palms in the churches (9-10 a. m.). HoLY THURS- DAY 0ueves Santo): solemn mass with the ceremony of the « Darkness > (Teiiebres) and the washing of the altar (6 p. in.); *passion-plays in Ixiapalapan, Tacuba, Azcapotzalco, Tcxcoco near Mexico, in Metepec near Toluca, in Tepozilan (Morelos) etc. Holy Friday (Viernes Santo): coniinuation of the *passion- plays ia the above mentioned places (tlas tres caidas», 3--6 p. m.). Saturday before Easter (Sabado de Gloria); solemn mass 9-10 a. m. with blessing of candles water etc; in the City of Mexico curious fair of rat- tling toys ( matracas); about lO a. m., with the ringing of the bells, begins in the streets the comical *auto de fe of Jiidas «in effigies. Easter SUNDAY (Pascua de Resurcccion): solemn masses, promenades (in Alameda) etc. In April on a day announced by the city-council of Mexico the flower-promenade takes place (ccombale de flores* in the I'aseo de la Reforma, 4-6 p. m.). April 2, memorial day of the battle of Puebla in 1867, state-festival, especially celebrated in 98 Mexico and Puebla. May, month of the virgin, every afternoon festival for little girls (normas) in the churches, ^^^y 3> festival of the holy cross (Sanla Cruz), ce- lel)rated by the Indiaris as festival of the liquid element, around the wells and in the wine manufactories (Ti- nacales), by the water-carriers (aguadores), porters (cargaiiores), collectors of the juice of the century plant (tlachiqueros) etc. In *Tiaxcala, festival of the virgin of Ocotlan. May 1 5, (San Isidro Labrador): country festival of the farmers. May 24., St, John's day (San Juari Bauli=ta); *bath-fesuval and lair of martial toys; in the Ciiy of Mexico especially celebrated in the baths (banos) of the Alberca Pane. Corpus Christi: solemn mass in the churches and fair (in Me- xico before the Cathedral). JUNE 16, Carmen, church festival, (in San Angel near Mexico, celebrated with a fair the Sunday following this date). June 19, Me- rnorial day of the death of the ench revolution festival. July 18, memorial service in honor of the great Indian liberator Benito Juarez, state festi- val, celebrated in the City of Mexico (9 a. m.) with a promenade (paseo civico) to the churchyard of San Fernando, speeches and decora' ion of the tomb. AU- GUST 2, Lady of the Angels (Nuestra Senora de los Angeles): church festival with fair (in Mexico before the church «Los Angeles*). Aug. 15, Assumption of the virgin (Asuncion de Nue=lra Sciiora) great church festival. Aug. 21, memorial day in honor to the Aztec < emperor » of Mexico, Cuauhtemoc, only celebrated in the 99 City of Mexico with Indian dances, speeches (9-12 a.m.) in Paseo de la Reform a. September 8, Mary's birthday (La Nativiclad de Nuestra Stnora): great church fe- stival; in *Tepoztlan (Morelos) is represented a curious Indian battle- drama (Reto). Sept. 15 and 16, Inde- pendence-day, greatest state festival, celebrated with promenades, public amusements, lire v/orks, the noc- turnal cgrito de Dolores* and the ccanto de gallos>, etc. Sept. 30, birthday of the heroe Morelos cele- brated in Ciiautla ajid Morelia. November 2, All Souls (I)ia de Ids Difuntos), celebrated in the style of the mediaeval c death- dance* with curious repre- sentations of skeletons (calaveras or muerlos) in print and statues, pilgrimage to the churchyards (in Mexico especially to Dolores); in the theatres is represented the gho^t-drama « Don Juan Tenorio» by the Spanish dratnati^t Jose Zorrilla j Moral; in the Alameda great «paseo» from lO-l a. m. and 8-II p. m. Nov. 22, begins the pilgrimage and fair whh gambling in the city of Guadalupe -Hidalgo. DECEMBER I--I2^ great fair in San Juan de los Lagos. Dec, 8, Mary's Concep- tion (Intnarulada Coticepcion de Nuestra Sefiora) great church iebtival. Dec. 12, Great Festival of the c In- dian V'irgin*, Nuestra Stnora de Gur:dalupe, with im- mense pilgrimage to *GuadaIupe -Hidalgo, beginning before biin-rii/j — Intiian dances, gambling etc. About 10,000 pilgrims are gathered together, among them thousands of Indians, who come to get tbe holy earth (called 3a!;on) anil the holy water of tlie well. *Dtc. 16-24, Chribtnias fair and plays (posadas) with family reunion, joyfij breaking of the candy-jar (pifiata), ball etc.; also in some churches «posadas» are celebrated (at 7 o'clock) and in some theatres Christmas—plays are represented; especially famous are the festivals of *Queretaro, Puebla etc. Dec. 24., Christmas-eve (Noche Buena) -representation of the manger (nacimiento), ending the Christmas-plays: at midnight the child Jesus is put into the cradle. Supper with fish, , «revoltillos», «bufiuelos> etc., ball; — great mid-night mass in the churches (lo- 1 o'clock). Dec. 28, Innocent's day (Dia de los Santos Inocentes), a kind of all-fools-day in Mexico. Dec. 31, Sylvester (Sylve?tre) family festival with champagne baptism of the new year. BuII-and Cock-fights (lidia de toros and pelea de gallos) are, besides gambling, the favorite pastime of the Mexicans— both introduced by the Spaniards. In all the larger towns is a special ring (plaza de toros and palenque) for each of these cruel pleasures. Th'e first bull fights were arranged in the City of Mexico about the middle of the 1 6th century. In many of the states they are now prohibited, as in Zacatecas, Aguascalientes, Oaxaca,Tamaulipas, Federal District and State of Mexico, Tabasco, Veracruz etc. The rings are divided into shady and sunny-side (sombra and sol), the boxes (lumbreras) of the first are the most fashion- able places. The representations generally take place in the afternoon from 3 or 4. o'clock lo 6 or 7 o'clock — the most famous Mexican bull-fighter is Ponciano Diaz. The Theatres are, as in the U. S., only tempo- rarily visited by wandering troops. In the larger cities there appear most every year good Italian opera com- panies. The Mexican actors as well as the dramatic authors are only mediocre. A Spanish specially is the the ticket is only sold for a single act. In the galleries sometimes extra charge is made for the seat (6-12 cts); the parterre or orchestra-seats are called , the parterre box , the dress-circle (divided into boxes)' «palco primero>, the seat casiento*, the box «palco>, the gallery tgaleria*. The finest theatres are in Guadalajara, Mexico, Guanajuaio etc. Favorite Me- xican actors are at present, Rafael Ibarra, Agnstin Ca-.n- puzano, Enrique Labrada; actresses, Concepcion Pa- dilla, Leona Paliza, Mariana Rivcro, Rosa Palacios etc. Best time for visiting tlie country is, generally speaking, the Winter season ;^October to April), escaping thus the cold breath of northern climes and the fevers (typhoid and yellow fever etc) of the tropics and enjoying here a green winter with dry atmosphere and hardly any rain. The heavens are then cloudless and seem of < eternal* blue. Even the highest mountains are clear. The landscape of the Central Plateau is however much prettier during the Summer (best time June to September), then covered with vast corn-fields (milpas) and gardens full of fruit. Expenses, Time and Preparations: A hurried trip all through Mexico, limiting onc's-self to the pi in- cipal railroad cities or harbors, can be made in 6 or even in 4 weeks, but more comfortalily in 3 or 4 months, at a cost of about ^'25010 300 for travelling and $2—4 (daily) for hotel expenses^ A trip from the northern boundary to the City of Mexico and east down to Veracruz, can easily be made in 4 to 6 weeks for about $150 travelling expenses besides the above mentioned daily hotel expenses. The two great northern R. R's. (Central and National R. R.) arrange excursions every winter at cheaper rates, with connec- tions from New Orleans, Washington or New-York, It may however be more entertaining to take one line for ihe down trip and i>ie other for the retarn, as there are interesting sights each way. The « taking in > of strangers and the «pourboire> or FEES (propinas) are still little known, so thKt the traveller will be less annoyed in his wanderings, than in the old world. A PASSPORl is not required (see p. 57) but letters of introduction or other qualifying papers are very desirable and even indisp>ensabh; in case of emergency. Take as little BAGGAGE as possible lo save expenses and inconvenience; but consider a good woolen blanket,, woolen under-wear and a light overcoat, even during a Summer excursion, among the most necessary articles, A parasol, blue s[>ectacleSy an opera or field-glass will often be need-:d. As there are very high CUSTOM I>UTIE3 on most articles of clothing and luxury, it will be wise to avoid excessive qi'.antity, for which they might require the payment of duties (see Import, p.. 84, 87)^ The baggage has to be opened ajid inspected I03 at the boundary —yet honest travellers will have little difficulty — as the Mexican custom officials are ge- nerally very polite. Free of duty, nre articles worn or in use, two firearms with one hundred charges, 99 cigars, 40 packages of cigarettes etc. Professional men and artisans can introduce their instrumer ts or tools free. Keep your keys at hand to avoid suspicion, so that the trunks may be easily opened, if required. Have your LETTERS simply directed to the ci y where you stay longest, thus they are kept in the post-office, which is much safer than the hotel-office; (see: I\Iail p. 90). The Spanish style of directing a letter is: Money is best carried in American bank-notes or drafts on New-York, which can be easily exchanged in all larger cities of Mexico. A high premium is generally paid on American money, according to the current prices (at present about 35'?), which consid- erably lessens the cO:t of a sojourn in Mexico. Beware of counterfeited silver money in Mexico, which is widely circulated and accept only BANK-NOTES issued by the < Banco NacionaU and « Banco de Londre^, Mexico y Sur America*. Mexican money is now divided according to the metrical system, but the people still adhere to some old Spanish names lor certain coins. The Mexican peso corresponds to the American • dollar and is divided in to 100 centaros (cents). There I04. are circulating, GOLD COINS of 20, lo, 5, 2^ and I pesos (or dollars); SILVER COINS of 100 (iin peso), 50 (toston or cuatro realcs) 25 (peseta or dos reales) 10 and 5 centavos and COPPER COINS of I cenlavo. Twelve or thirteen centavos are still called «un real>, six cen- tavos cun medio », three centavos ) and it is not very hard to find a trust- worthy guide (hombre de confianza). A blanket, a big Mexican straw-hat, a parasol and a bottle of wine as well as some letters of introduction to the prefect (jefe politico) or to a superintendent (administrador) of some haciendas are good travelling companions. The traveller has to pay for the horse of the guide as well as for his food and that of all the animals he employs. The ordinary price is $I for each horse or mule a day, 25 cts for the food of each animal and 50 cts for board of the guide (viz., $3 per day for guide and two horses), but you have also to pay his return trip. Thus for longer excursions it will be cheaper to buy a horse (§25-40), which afterwards can easily be dis- posed of with a small loss. Street-cars, Carriages, Porters and Express are in larger cities, always at hand at the arrival of trains. As the depots are often far from town it will be very convenient to make use of them. Street-cars (ferrocarrlles or tramvia->) are the favo- rite means of locomotion in Mexico and even many small towns boast of their possession. There are ge- nerally two or even three classes of cars ot various prices; the cars of the first class are usually of yellow, 109 the second of green or blue color. The uncleanliness of most of the second class passengers deter respect- able people from usi.ig them. The Mexican street- cars transport in sp^rcial cars coffins, freight, mail and prisoners. The point of destiny is announced on the lamps, at the sides or on top of the car. The fare varies from 6—12 cts; children over two years pay the full rate. Especial, freight and hearse-cars can be rented at the office of the administration. The CARRIAGES (coches) too, are divided in larger cities into two or three classes of different prices. The passage is generally counted per half or whole hour and the return of the driver to the starting point is cilcalated, so that in a ride of one half hour you can only go a distance of 15 minutes. The number of persons does not alter the price. For larger BAGGAGE a fee (6-12 cts) is expected. In case of imposition call a police-man (gendarme) or drive to the head- quarters of public coaches. At the depots you scarcely get a carriage without paying at least the price for one hour (50-75 cts). Keep the number of the car- riage in your mind. (See; City of Mexico etc). The Porters (cargadores) usually wait at the en- trance of the depot. Those with numbers are subject to some control and are therefore preferable. Look at the number or watch the man! For hand-baggage carried to the hack or street car 6 cts, for a trunk to the hotel or residence about 25 cts. is the right price. Express is only found in the larger railroad-cities, which sends an agent to the train, who enters the cars to take orders a little while before the arrival in the city. The express agent must have the bagf^age check and the keys (for the examination in the local custom-house) and give a receipt. Express charges are aboul 50 cts. for each trunk. At the Arrival in each city there is an examina- tion of baggage to collect the local duty (alcabala, portazgo etc) at the gate (garita). If you are not suspected of smuggling goods, you will hardly be obliged to open the trunk. Hand-baggage will not be searched. Hotels and Restaurants are now in the larger R. R. towns pretty good: some of them are kept by Americans or F"renchmen. Although both are ge- nerally united in the same building, each one has its special management and the traveller is not obliged to take or pay for board in the same HOTEL. During fairs and on holidays rooms are scarce and the prices for rooms and board are generally raised. Comfort and service even in the best hotels of the City of Mexico leave much to desire. Those gigantic palace hotels, which are found in the U. S. or in the larger cities of the old world remain still unknown here, but there are projects in consideration to meet this necessity. Baths, bar (can- tina), barber-shop (peluquerla) and billiard-rooms are generally enclosed in the building of larger hotels. For the sake of health it is indispensable to choose a sunny room (during the Winter on east or south side). The rooms on the other sides are very often damp. There are here too various classes of chouses > the better ones generally assume the French name of chotel>; the old fashioned inns are called or , the boarding-house «casa de huesj)e- des>. The prices in the hotels are about the same as in the U. S. In the City of Mexico (which see) you have to count on f 1-3, in the other cities on f I a room. A Utile reduction is made by taking the room for a longer period of time (2 -4 weeks). For an extra-bed in the same room $0,50 — 1, 00 is charged In the the prices are from $1-2 a day or from $25-40 a month. For blacking your shoes the waiter (camarisla) expects eacii time a pay- ment of 6 cts. Furnished rooms in private houses are very rare but they allow you sometimes in second- class hotels the privilege of light house-keeping. Wash-list (lista de la ropa): Abrigo — cloak. Cal- celines — socks: pares, pairs. Calzoncillos — drawers. Camisa or camiseta — shirt and under-shirt; de lana, woolen; de lino, linen. Caracol —night-gown. Cha- leco (pique) — white waist. Colcha— cover or spread. Cuellos — collars. Enaguas — skirts. Fundas — pillow- cases. Manteles — table cloths. Panuelos — handker- chiefs. Punos — cuffs. Sabana— sheets. Servilletas — napkins. Toallas— towels. Vestido — dress. Prices ask- ed by the washer women (lavanderas) are very con- ventional. In many of the larger cities exist Restaurants with French or even with American cuisine. Peculiar Mexican specimens are the and «figones>, especially those of smaller towns, but you ought to tiy there some Aztec and Spanish dishes. Breakfast (desayuno) means simply a cup of coffee with some 112 bread; the dinner (comida or almuerzo) is generally served from 12-2 o'clock, ihe supper (cena) from 6-8 o'clock. In the a bottle of « pulque > is generally included in the meal but coflee is often an extra. The price for breakfast is generally 12 cts; for dinner or supper in the City of Mexico 62—75 cts: in the restaurants of other cities 50 cts; in the 25 cts, in the cfigoness 12 cts. There are sometimes extra-tables or departments with higher prices but without better accomodation. You may either take the regular meal (comida regular) or eat «a la carte » (platos sueltos). Each dish (plato) costs generally from 12-25 '^^^- The waiter of a restaurant (mesero) expects a little fee (propina) from strangers. Bill of Fare (lista) with English equivalent: Alca- chofa — artichoke. Amantecado — ice-cream. Anguila — eel. Arroz — rice. Asado — roast. Bacalao — dried codfish. Barbacoa- barbecue or roasted kid. Elan- quillos — eggs, (see huevos). Bunuelos — pan-cakes. Bu- din— blood sausage. Ca'ora, cabrita— goat. Cafe (ne- gro or con leche) — coffee (black or with milk). Caldo — soup. Cangrejos — crabs. Carne (fria) — meat (cold). Carnero — mutton. Cebollas (rellenas) — onions (filled). Cerveza (Toluca) — beer (lagerbeer). Chalupas — sand- wiches. Chfcharos— peas. Chile (relleno) — red pepper (filled). Chocolate (con leche)— chocolate (with milk). Chorizo — smoked sausage. Codorniz — quail. Col — cabbage Colonche — ^Mexican drink from prickly pears- Costilias — cutlets. Croquelas — croquets. Dulce — sweet- meat or dessert. Elotes-corn. Enchiladas or envuel- tos— Mexican peppered rolls of corn bread. Ensalada "3 — salad (lettuce). EspArragos — asparragus. Espin aca • — spinage. Fideos — noodles. Filete — sirloin. Fresas — strawberries. Frijolei — Mexican beans. Frituras — croquets. Fruta — fruit. Garbanzas — chick peas. Gua- jolote — turkey. Guisado — boiled beef. Habas — white beans. Hejotes — string beans. Helados — kind of ice cream. Higado — liver. Hongos — mush-rooms, Huau- chinango — red snapper; frito, fried. Huevos — eggs; cocidos, boiled; en tortillas, scrambled; fritos, fried; pasado por agua, very soft. Jaiva — deviled crab. Ja- mon — ham. Jitomates — tomatoes. Langosta — lobster. Leche — milk. Lengua- tongue. Manitas — calves-feet. Mantequilla — butter. Manzana — sweet apple. Mon- dongo — tripes Naranja — orange. Nabos — turnips. Nieve — kind of ice-cream, OUa podrida — Spanish boiled vegetable dish. Ostiones — oysters. Pan— bread; caliente, fresh; frio, old. Papas or patates —potatoes. Pato — duck. Pavo —turkey. Pepino— cucumber. Pe- ra — pear. Perron — sour apple. Pescado — flbh: p. bianco, white-fish. Pierna-— leg. Pina — pine-apple, Platano — banana. Polio — chicken; pescuezo, breast. Postres • — dessert. Putage ^ — puree. Puchero — Spanish meat and vegetable dish. Pulque^^ — wine of the century plant: curado, with fruit juice. Queso- — cheese. Ra- banos.^ — radishes. Ranas — frogs. Rcllenos- — filled red pepper. Robalo.^ — kind of bream. Salchicha, talchi- chon — sausage. Salsa — sauce. Sesos — brain. Sopa — boiled rice. Tamales^ — Aztec meat pies. Ternera — -veal. Tocino- — pork. Tordo (real). — field fare. Tor- tilla — -thin iVlcxican corn bread; must be eaten hot (ca- liente). Tdrtola— dove. Torluga —turtle. Uva — grapes* 114- Vino — wine; bianco, white; tinto, red. Volovanes — meat palties. Zanahorias — carrots. Public Baths (Bafios) are an important and curious feature of Mexican city-life and a place of pilgrimage and pleasure on Saint John's day. The Water- ClosetS (Excusado, Tribularia, Comun, Mingitorio) of these institutions are always open to the public upon payment of 6-12 cts. Some Don'ts for Travellers: Don't get out of hum.or, when they consider you a man with broad mind and full pocket.— Don't forget to always ask the price in advance: ^cuanto vale? (how much?) and ^para todo? (for everything?) will become the two important questions of your life. — Don't believe that the prices asked are as immutable as the fixed-stars: they express more a high estimation of your genero- sity rather than the real value of the goods; you are expected to offer about one-half and receive the goods for about two-thirds. It is true this kind of guess- work will not always prove adrantageous for you, but it is the old Roman style of business. — Don't consider a Mexican waiter or porter a «perpetuum mobile > as you will soon find out Irow much you have wronged him. Don't get nervous if the waiter cannot com- prehend the necessity of hot water, because he will always be an adherent of the cold-water-cure. Don't get mad if the waiter is inattentive or impudent, all he wants is, that you give him «propina> (fee) or com- plain at the office; the waiter (mesero) of a large res- taurant expects about 6-12 cts for serving a meal, the waiter of the hotel (camarista) occasion ally a 25 cent-piece. — Don't rise late if you want to make an excursion into the country and provide yourself with a hear\y lunch and your favorite drink, if you want to enjoy the day. — Don't walk in the sun neither hurry too much in the mountains, if you wish to avoid fevers and pneumonia. — Don't forget the INIex- ican is the mo?t polite and amiable man, who is al- ways ready to offer you even the last bit upon his plate or the oidy house he has, but he also expects you to be kind enough not to accept it; his doesn't always mean fyes> and his seldom as much as «good friend >. s^^^<5><^^^:q^ ilTYAHO VALLEY OF niEXICO M dpHE ^ALLEY OF ^^EXICO. '^ There can surely he no richer and more varied spectacle, than, that which offers the Valley of Mexico...." Hicnboidt, Political Essay of New-Spain, Vol.1, Booh III, Chap. VIII. {General Impression and charaoteri.stics; most interesting Sizhts and best time for Visita. Geolo epical Formation. Situition, Limits, Extension and Superficie: Mountains, Plains, Rivers. Lakes and Mineral Waters. The famous Drainaire- Works of the Valiey. Climate and Mortality. Natural Products Po- litical Division: the Towns and their luhabitants. Histo- rical Summary;. ^N the midst of two oceans, somewhat south of the center of the country, in the region of the trop- ics but on an immense elevation, extends the broad 117 Valley of Mexico — one of the most remarkable and beautiful productions of nature — for centuries the heart of the country. Overshadowed ]:)y some of the highest, snow- crowned mountains of North America, illuminated by wide patches of water, filled with ex- tinguished crater - cones ■ and naked lava-streams, witii evergreen fields of cactus and century plants, with curious Aztec ruins, important modern cities, and a cosmopolitan population, this valley charms as well the eye, as it incites the mind to study and reflect. It is one of the most elevated and fruitful and the most populated valley of Mexico and one of the richest in picturesque landscapes and interesting sights. Celebrated world-wanderers, who have seen the most interesting landscapes of both hemispheres have praised the delightful scenery of the Valley of Mexico as unsurpassed in beauty. Thus Alexander von Hum- boldt describes his impression in the significant phrase, which forms the « motto* of this chapter and in its full sense reads as follows: There can surely be no richer and more varied spectacle, than that, which offers the Valley of Mexico, looking^around fiom one of the towers of the Cathedral or from the top of the hill of Chapultepec, on a beautiful Spring morn- ing, when the heavens are clear and of that turquoise blue, which is so peculiar to the dry and thin atmos- phere of high mountains. The valley represents a PANORAMA as extraordina- rily lich in colors and forms, as in striking contrasts: from evergreen fields to eternal snow, from luxurious fruit and flower-gardens to bare brown lara-beds or 118 white alcali-deserts I It is unhappily impossible to see from the plain or its smaller elevations over the whole valUy, as tlie perspective is obrtructed by many promon- tories and scaltercd hills aiul it is necessary to take a view from various points, to perceive all the beau- ties of the landscape. The view changes as often as you alter the POINT OF OBSERVATION. You must at least see it once from the stately Cathedral, once from the romantic Cattle of Chapultepec and once from the sacred hill of Tepeyac; thereafter you will still enjoy a glance once more over it from the high Cementery of Dolores or from the idyllic c Hacienda de la Castane, which Humboldt praised. During this time some very curious and interesting FES- TIVALS (see p. .96) also take place, which are worth being seen. Looking over the wide valley with its straight green avenues, its rows of dazzling white houses, its old church-towers and gaily colored domes, bordered in the far tUstance by a glistening sheet of water, you will finally be fasrinated by the bluish frame of the long and imposing eastern range, called < Sierra Ne- vada>. Casting a glance over its modest beginning in the far north you elevate the gaze towards th« 119 south up to the highest heavens in order to view the white tops of the broad and jagged « White Woman* and the mighty cone of the « Smoking l\Iountain>j a still active volcano ! What beautilul contrasts these brilliant snow-points form with the transparent azure of the sky, with the indistinct gray -blue of the raouQtains, the deep-blue of the lakes and the many shades of green of fields and gardens! Sutely, Humboldt did not say too much, praising this spectacle as unparal- leled! It is still more interesting on certain festivals, as on the day of Guadalupe (Dec^ 12), when all the avenues are animated by thousands of Indian pilgrims in their curious dress and outht, accompanied by caravans of overloaded « burros j, ox-carts (a Mex- ican kind of prairie-schooners) etc. The whole mountain frame is interestingly rich in forms and picturesque outlines; rising up from a few hundred to over ten thousand feet above the val- ley. The ridge is very edentated, the slope gentle, ondulating, partly wooded and sometimes with bare rocks, cut by many ravines, undermined by deep caves and covered with curious-shaped tops. In the far north the frame is made up of broken groups of lower mountain-ranges and isolated hills. On the west and east side it rises gradually from north to south until it reaches on the east side its climax in the two snow-covered giants and on the west side in the broad and woody eCerro de las Cruces» and the broken and jagged «Ajusco», which approaches the snow-limit. Its eastern projection forms the southern part of the mountain frame, gradually descending 5 120 toward ihe foot of the majestic volcano. The eastern, mountain frame is straight, the western broadens out into a wide circle. The « Smoking Mountain > and its white companion are the grace and most character" istic parts of the landscape, the perpetual guards of the valley and the silent witnesses of its romantic past. But they are not always in sight! During the greater portion of the year they wrap themselves as closely in a veil of clouds as the ancient Aztecs in their blankets and the modern in their zarapes and rebozos, dreaming of the fairy Mexican Utopia — the inapproachable and everlasting . Numerous little brooks and creeks rush from the mountains, especially during tiie < rainy season* and wind through the valley towards the lakes. In the famous «Tajo de Nochistongo> or < Canal de lIuehuetoca> the valley possesses one of the most important hydrauli:: works of the worl d (see the following description of rivers, etc). A chain of towns, villages, charming country- houses (quintas) and idyllic water-mills demonstrate the dense population of the Valley of Mexico, wh ich contains beside the romantic metropolis and ancien-t capital of the country (see-. City of Mexico) also the capital of the state of Hidalgo (Pachuca, one of the oldest, richest and most interesting mining -towns) and many other peculiar and important cities and towns, as the Guadalupe-Hidalgo, the picturesque mountain-towns Amecameca and Tlalmanalco; the straw- berry-paradise San Angel ( the Aranjuez of Me- xico), the garden -cities Tlalnepantla, Azcapotzalco, Tacuba, Tacubaya, Tlalpam, Xochimilco and Ayotla. A curious sight offer the Indian villages of Santa Anita, Ixtacalco and Ixlapalapan, which with their ditches and islands recall the old Teaochtitlan, the Venice of the New World. Some of the most idyllic and spots are the mill:- of the ravine of the valley as those near Texcoco, Teotihuacan etc., enclose the peculiar Mexican wine-manufactories (tinacales) and are sur- rounded by vast and v/ell cultivated fields of century plants, where you can daily meet with the collector of the juice, the «tlachiquero>. From the capital broad avenues (calzadas), enclosed by ash, poplars, willows, pepper-trees etc, penetrate the valley in all directions to the neighboring cities and towns. Gardens and parks alternate with meadows and fields of corn (mil- pas), ctntury plants (magueyales) and prickly pears (nopaleras or tunales). A great majority of the in- habitants of the valley are still pure Indians, descen- dants of the martial Aztecs and the poor Otomites. Six Railroads and numerous street-car lines cross the valley in all directions. Among the few An'cient Monuments of the valley, which escaped the conquerors', monks' and time's rage for deslruction, some of the most remarkable are the cPyramides of the Sun and ISIoon>, solemnly arising in the plain of Teotihuacan (in an angle of the eastern frame of the valley). In the neighborhood of Texco- co, the old capital of the Chichimecs, the « Athens of Mexico 5>, are scattered some interesting ruins of Az- tec aqueducts, baths, palaces and a colossal statue of the god of rain. North of this city is the ancient park of prince Netzahualcoyotl (the Mexican Peri- cles), with very old cypresses (ahuehuetes). Over the 133 hills of Peuoa cie los Bafios, Estrella, Xico etc, are scattered some debris of Aztec temples. The pictu- resque hill of Chapultepec contains a curious Aztec sculptural remnant and is surrounded by an ancient park of beautiful old cypresses. A curious monument rests upon the eastern slope of the Cerro de las Cru- ces, another kind of « moon » or « calendar stones, some- what similar to that of the National Museum (v/hich see — and the above mentioned places in: Excursions through the Valley). The City of Mexico and neighboring towns also offer some relics, which recall the romantic history from the conquest to the last revolutions; from Cortes and the liberators to the two unfortunate emperors lUirbide and Maximilian, Geological Formation: The vast oval of this valley has been considered as the basin of an enormous volcano, whose walls are the surrounding mountains. The mountain-frame appears of volcanic origin and con- sists mostly of a certain kind of porphyry called Hyper- slhens-Andesit and trachyte or Amphybol-Andesit, further of (Plagioklas-) basalt and various kinds of lava, as the porous amygdaloid or tezontle, volcanic ashes and sand. It contains in the north (Pachuca) some of the richest metallic veins of the country. The < Smoking Mountain* still manifests its volcanic char- racter by tlie exhalation of vapors and gas, like the Solfalara of Puzzuoli (near Naples). Numerous crater cones on the slopes and in the basin and extensive lava-beds still record the volcanic revolutions of the 124 past. We have even (in 1884) becotrje somewhat ac- quainted with a victim ol" one of the prehistoric erup- tions in the so-called «man of the (hili) Penon> (hotnbre del Penon), whose remains now rest in the National Museum of the City (which see). After the accumulaiion of t}ie enormous elevations which enclose the valley, humidity was attracted in great abundance. The valley, which has only one natural outlet, between the northern groups of hills in the bed of the little river Tequixquiac, was probably at times entirely enclosed. Thus all the humidity collected in the center of the valley, inau- gurating its period of flood or diluvium, which caused the alluvial or quarternary formation of its bed. It is characterised by «lacustrous> layers of sediment and consists principally in thin beds of white clny-marl (in Mexico called ctepelate»), which, exposed to the atmosphere, becomes so hardened that it re- sounds under the hoof of horses and mules. These marly layers alternate with volcanic detritus of por- phyry and trachyte, puirice-itone etc, which has been carried by the mountain streams into the valley or collected during the eruptions in the rain of sand and ashes. Above the beds of clay-marl are, near the surface, mud and humus or upper-earth and in some parts sand and alcali. Fire and water, the two most pow^erful elements, have, so to say, rivaled in the creation of this master- piece of nature ! After the exhaustion of the volcanic power and the enclosure of the immense crater-basin, the water begun its work and transferred it into a 125 single wide lake, in which the promontories, and isolated crater-cones iormed many peninsulas and is- lands. The extraordinary humidity cai^sed prolitic fertility, especially at the shores of the lake and there arose those dense and gigantic virgin forests, of which the famous «ahuehuete5> of Chapultepec probably give only a ■ very slight idea. Parts of this luxurious vegetation collected in the lake and were there trans- formed into swimming islands. What a magnificent spectacle it must have been in those primeval times, when above the immense lake, with its numerous islands and c swimming gardens*, the volcanoes of Popocaepetl and Ajusco were spitting fire and flame! The excavations of Tequixquiac have proved in various fossiU, that the valley was inhabited by various gigantic animals and very probably by men too evea before the diluvium; for in 1870 was found in that place a fossil artificially modelled in the shape of a coyote. The wonderful fertility and the safe seclusion of the valliv attracted men, in spite of the ihreaten- ning dangers of fire and water and llie battle with wild animals. The scattered islands offered them a very safe refuge from human and beastly foes. The fauna of the valley contained according to the fossils North and South American species, as elephants (tlephas primigenius) and mastodons (Mastodon anti- diluvianus, tropicus and Shepardi), horses (Equus Bar- cenai, tau, crenidens, excelsus) lamas (Eschalius con- idens, Holomenischus hesternus, Palauchenia magna etc), buffalo (bos latifrons), giant armadillo (Glypto- don cf. clar-pes) etc. 126 The dimensions of this sheet of v/ater have in the course of time very often changed, partially on ac- count of the extraordinarily high evaporation in this altitude, partially on account of earthquakes, which by enormous crevices devoured great quantities of the liquid element as it happened five years after the great inundation of 1629. Even at the time of the con- quest a great part of the valley was covered by a single lake. These frequent changes in the valley have probably been the cause of many of those emi- grations and immigrations, to which the legends refer. According to tradition the first inhabitants of the valley were the gigantic people called Filisteos-Qui- nametin, which Chavero identifies with the Otomites (Hia-hiu or Otoncas), although they are just the farthest from being giants: more probably the idea of a primitive people of giants arose from the dis- covery of gigantic fossils. Another fabulous people who inhabited this valley, were the Ulmeca or Vixtoti, one of the various tribes of the Meca. About 635 the first Chichimecs settled in the valley; in the eighth century they were followed by the first Nahoas or Tlapaltecas, the so-called Toltecs and in 885 by the Aztecs, who named it the valley of «Anahuac» (from atl, water; nahoa, euphonious: the generic name of the various Aztec tribes and the efiix «c», en, refer- ring to place). Witnessing in this valley the creative power of fire and water they very probably formed here their religious ideas of the four ages of fire, water, wind and earth— venerating the four elements, (See: Historical Summary, Teotihuacan etc.). 127 Situation and Boundaries: The basin of the valley is formed by the immense range of the « Sierra Nevada* or «of Anahuao and its branches, which at the beginning of the Central Plateau project into the interior from the eastern coast range, the Sierra Madre Oriental. It is situated between north latitude ig'^io' and 2o°7'3o" and between west longitude 98^36' and 99'' 21' of Greenwich, from 7439 to 8036 feet above sea- level. The BOUNDARIES of the v;ide basin begin in the northwest behind the ancient village of Kuehuetoca with a very insignificant and broken group of hills j the Cerro de Sincoque anddejalpan, between which the famous Canal ot Nochistongo conveys an artificial outlet to the waters of the valley. The last named hill is joined by the hills of (loma de) Espana, de Las Cuevas, Jiloncingo and Aranda, the range of (sierra de) Tezontlalpam and the higher and argen- tiferous range of Pachuca. Beyond these hills lie the valleys and plains of Tula, Atotonilco el Grande, Tulancingo and Zinguilucan. In the northeast corner the eastern frame starts with the hill of Zinguilucan and the steep little range of Xihuingo, from the foot of which the lofty « Sierra de Nevada > gradually arises, till it reaches in the south the region of eternal snow. Lehind these gigantic mountains extends the valley of Puebla. Also the southern frame begins with some lower elevations, foot-hills of the Popocatepetl, in the hills of Tenango and Juchitepac, which are joined by the high and rugged < Sierra de Ajusco* (or cde Cuernavacas, excluding the valley of this name). The v/estern projection of this range called Sierra de las 128 Cruces turns in a broad circle towards the north, de- clining gradually and receiving the name cf c Sierra de Monte Alto> and tde Monte Eajo», They arc joined by the little « Sierra de Tepotzotlan>,' which approaches the hill of Sincoque. This western frame conceals the valley of Toliica. (See; Elevations). Area and Superiicie: The basin of the valley appears in a very general way like an immense oval. There are however many irregularities on account of numerous gullet?, off-springs of the mountain frame and scattered hills, which form many angles and a serious of smaller valleys. Two of the promontories, the western Sierra de Guadalupe and the eastern Sierra de Chiconautla approach each other so nearly, that they divide the valley into two unequal parts; the higher but narrow northern half and the lower but broader southern half. The greatest length of the entire valley, between Pachuca and Tlalpara. amounts to 71 miles, the greatest width via Cuaulitlan to 45 miles. The Af.ea of the total basin from sum- mit to summit contains 1 758 sq: miles, of its central part only 810 sq: miles. The valley represents a great variety in its formation. Broad plains alternate with undulous ground, long gullies and deep ravines. Toward the mountains the ground ascends amphi- theatricaliy, especially in the west. The largest PLAINS are those of San Javier, Ciiavarria, Zumpango, Tizayuca and Tultitlan in the northern partition of the valley and those of Tlalnepantla, Teotihuacan- Otumba, Acolman, Texcoco, Mexico and Chalco in the southern partition. The numerous brooks and 120 creeks which descend from ihe mountains, form in the center of the valley six lakes of various size and altitude. They succeed each other from north to south. The three smallest are in the northern half, the three largest in ihe southern half of the valley. The largest and lowest the salty Texcoco, is situated pretty near in the center of the same. All together comprehend now about i6o sq: miles or about i II part of the entire basin. During the rainy season the waters of the lakes extend considerably and di- minuish during the dry Winter, leaving their borders in a stale of swamp. The numerous Elevations of the Valley represent a great variety of groups and forms, not only in the moin- tain-frame, but also in the many scattered hills of the basin. The most interesting atid picturesque part of the former is the immense eastern « Sierra Nevada >, about fifty miles long, which gradually increase* from north to south, until it reaches its climax in the gi- gantic cone of the Popocatepetl or « Smoking Moun- tain> (from the Aztec , mountain). This volcano has for centuries assumed the distinction of being the eking of mountains* in Mexico or even in the whole continent of North America, but recently this honor has often been dis- puted him (see p. lo). It is situated in northern latitude l9'^io'45" and in western longitude 98-'36' of Greenwich, about 50 miles southeast of the city of Mexico and reaches a height above sea-level of 17,712 (according to Humboldt) or 17,777 ^t- ('"ac- cording to A. Sonntag)— or about 10,300 ft. over the 130 Valley of Mexico, At the foot of this gigantic cone extend two of the most picturesque, fertile and po- pulated valleys of the country. The principal constituent parts of this mountain are porphyric lava-beds (Hy- persthen-Andesit) covered with thick layers of loose volcanic sand and ashes. The slopes arise generally very gradually; they are furrowed with deep ravines abounding with picturesque water-falls, covered with many peaks and large forests of pines, oaks etc. On the east side only, lava-streams reach the valley, as for instance in the so-called «]Malpais> of Aliachayacatl, The limit of trees is at 13,054 ft., of vegetation at l3,7ro ft., the region of eternal snow begins at 14,104. ft. On the north side" the snow girdle is the widest, on the south side it often disappears during the hot Spring- time. The slopes of the top are very steep, from 24^-40'^ and on account of the snow, fog and storm of this region very hard to ascend. The brim ot the CRATER is very irregular and jagged, has a circum- ference of about 1 2 miles, a longest diameter of 1,968 ft. in the direction of N. N. E. to S. S. W. and a smaller of 1,312 ft. The entrance to the same is found on the southeast side at the height of 17,263 ft. The two prominent points of the same are the tEspinazo del Diablo> (Devil's back-bone, 17,210 ft.) and the 2. 1 7 miles long, binds the gigantic cone with its northern compa- nion the highly corpulent <\Vhile Woman >. Over this t saddle 3 led- already in the time of the conquest the highway from the Valley of Mexico to that of Puebla, connecting then Tenochtillan, Tlalm.analco and Ame- cameca (via La Cumbre and La Cruz del Correo) with Cholula. Cortes approached November 161 9, over this roadj the City of Mexico. The Ixtaccihuatl (from the Aztec tiztao, white 134- and cihuatl, woman) is after the Popocatepetl the next highest mountain of the Sierra Nevada and Me- xico and appears in its geological formaUon likewise to be a volcano, although the crown Las not the usual crater form. It rises in its' highest middle peak according to Humboldt 15,698 or according*to Sonn- tag 17,078 ft. above sea-level, or about 8,260—9,64.0 ft. above the Valley of Mexico. The principal con- stituents of this mountain are however trachyte (Am- phibol-Andesit). The gently rising slopes, covered with forests of pines and oaks, contain between their folds many beautiful little valleys with bare and cu- rious-shaped rocks, rushing brooks and water-falls, rivalling in picturesqueness with the finest scenery of the Alpes. There are many large and phantastic caves, the most extensive of all being known as and «Tla- loc>. The latter still recalls in its name the old Aztec god of the rain and fertility, whose idol was venerated there from the most ancient times. Clavijero relates that the Toltecs had already established the sanctuary of «this most antique divinity of the valley* on the top of this mountain, where the Chichimecs found it in 1 1 17. Prince NezahualpilU exchanged the old idol for a new one, which was destroyed by lightning. The pious Acolhuas replaced it again with the old figure, which stood there until bishop Zu- marraga ordered its destruction. The next point is the Tlamacas (13,352 ft.), then follow San Telmo and Tepayo. From this mountain-range many foot- hills project into the valley. Thus beneath the two snow-crowned mountain-giants are several very pictu- resque isolated groups of volcanoes, which extend between the lakes of Texcoco and Xochimilco-Chalco. The most easterly group is the «Serrania de Aco- SAC> of blackish-green andesit, bordering the northern shore of lake Chalco, with tlie three porphyric cones 136 of Texolotl (1371, 1052 and 1170 ft.) above Ihe Valley, the bell-shaped El Pino (.1,433 ft.) and the Caldera de Ayotla (of an average height of 557 ft.) The latter is a blunt crater-cone of andcsit, basalt and tuff, with two basins. Some further west, this group is joined by the cSerrania de Santa Cata- RiNA> with the hill of that name (1,568 ft.), the X.vl- tepetl (849 ft.) and the Yehualixca or San Nico- las (656 ft.), reacliing the northern shore of lake Xochimilco. Its highest elevation is the volcano of Santa Catarina, covered with ashes and lava-shells, crowned with a circular, funnel-shaped crater, 230 ft. deep. The scattered debris of pottery, of arrow- heads and knives of obsidian make it possible to be- lieve, that this hill was inhabited. At the eastern foot of this crater extends a very irregular lava- stream, upon which is situated a part of the village of Santiago. Somewhat soulh of this group on the eastern shore of lake Chalco, near Ayotla is the Irachytic Cerro of Tlapacoya (514 ft.) forming a peninsula of the lake and farther south in the lake is the picturesque island of Xico, containing in its southern part an old crater, 239 ft. high, of andesit covered with brownish a^hes- At the foot of the western slope are sulphur-springs and towards the south a turf-moor. It is said the Aztec princes had here a casino and some remains of ancient buildings are still called «Palacio de Moctezuma>. Cortes received this island as a present from Charles V. At the northern slope is the farm of San Juan Xico. North from the Cerro de San Nicolas, about 6 miles north- 137 east from the Cily of Mexico, is the interesting isolated basaltic Cerro ue la Estrella (star-bili) or de Ix- TAPALAPA, rising above extensive lava-beds in a cone 734 ft. high, with a broad undulating' mantle, covered with lava and ashes, which gives it the form of a star. This hill is likewise a side-crater, although the top does not demonstrate it, probably because it was considerably changed, when the famous temple of the god of fire was built here, parts of its walls of a white and gray lime-mortar are still to be seen on the summit. C)n the top and the slopes are many caves of various dimensions, where the rain-water collects during the Summer. One of these contains a hall of about 80K32 ft. by 4.5 ft. in height. On the eastern slope, in a deep ravine, is the entrance to a cave, in which vapors arise. Near it are some remains of an ancient building called the steam -bath (temascal) of Moctezuma. At the foot of the hill are several sulphur-springs. (See Ixtapalapa). Northeast of the star-hill, at the southern j^hore of lake Texcoco, about seven miles southeast from the City is the isolated rock «Penon viejo or del Marques*, 164 ft. high, with many caves, partially used as dwellings by some poor Indian families. Further north, on the eastern shore of Texcoco, beyond the Sierra de Aco- sac, rises the higher Cerro de Chimalhuacan (990 ft,). Opposite this hill on the western shore of the lake, about 2i miles east of the city stands the bare and isolated volcanic rock cPenon de los Bangs > (329 It. high), surrounded by deposits of soda and soda-springs (see p. 142). On the summit are remains of ancient buildings. Under this hill the f.i!noas tman of the I'tuoiu was buried (see p. 124). Further north, on the fool of the extends the Sierra de Patlachique far into the valley and from the (9,590 ft.) the jagged Sierra DE LOS PiTOS and de Chiconautla with the hills of Salinas, Gordo, Paula and Xoloc. Between these ranges, forming a cbay> in the mountain-range, extends the charming valley of Teotihuacan-Otumba, (with its tv/o artificial mounds), at whose eastern end, near invades the valley, covering an area of about 1 1 sty. miles. This basaltic lava- stream is from 19—49 It* h'g^ij very broken and forms many caves. Near Coyoacan, debris of i^ottery and also human bones have been discovered enclosed in the lava. Farther east, near the lake of Chalco and the village of Tulyahualco is the pretty cralcr-conc of 'J'euti.i containing a venerated cave, which according to Aztec legends is said to lead to the caves of the old fortress of Xochicalco and even as far as the wonderful labyrinth of Cacahuamilpa Over the east- ern slope of the Cerro de Ajusco passes, at a height of 9,826 ft. (Cruz del Marqucs) the old high- way to the valley of Cuernavaca, which in the year 1893 ^vil^ ^->s reached by the iron horse. 'Jhe most northerly of the Lakes is the little J^a- <;o i>R ZUM TANGO, about 33^ miles from the City of Mexico and 13.62 feet above its main square, at the foot of the Sierra de 'I'epolzotlan and the Cerro de Jalpan, comprising 6.64 sq: miles. If is divided into two parts by the dam cCalzada de la Cruz del Kcy>, viz., the Laguna de Zillaltepec and de Coyolepcc. 'J'he Zumpango receives on its western shore the most important river of the valley the < Rio del Desa- giio or and on its eastern shore the . P'rom the western shore of this lake starts the world -known « Canal de Nochistongo* and from its northern shore the new <'J'unnel of Tequixquiao (seep. 143). About four miles tov/arJb Ihc south, at the foot of the Sierra Ue Chico 141 nautla Cxlends the larger «Lago de Xaltocan* , 5.13 ft. above the City, with an area of 20,87 ^V ™iles. Only separated by the dam of San Pablo — Santo To- mas Chiconaiitla, follows the smallest sheet of water, the «Lago de San Cristobal », situated between the hills of Guadalupe and Chiconautla, 5.54 ft. above the City, with an area of 4.26 sq. miles. The central lake, the salty «Lago DE TexcocOs is the largest sheet of water, occupying the deepest depression of the valley, about 2^ miles east from the Cily and 6.25 feet below its main square. It comprises 67.63 sq: miles, is connected by the Canal de la Viga or de Xochimilco with the southern and by the new drainage canals with the northern lakes, receives on its eastern shore the brooks of Nexqui- payac, l^apalotla, Ran Jose, Magdaiena, Texcoco, Cha- pingo and Santa Monica, on its western shore those of Guadalupe and Consulado. The swampy shores of the Texcoco are partially covered with deposits of soda (tequesquite). The water has a depth from lO to 16 ft, and is lighter than that of the ocean. Ac- cording to Cortes it was agitated by ebb and flood; Humboldt believes however, that this movement was merely caused by the power of the east-wind. The two southern sweet-water lakes, the Lago DE Xochimilco and de Chalco are separated by an ancient dam, the Calzada San Pedro de Tlahuac and extend about six miles from the . City between the foot of the Sierra de Ajusco and the isolated volcanic groups of San Nicolas, Catarina and Aco- sac. These lakes are partially covered with plants of the family of the Juucaceas. and Cyperoides, The western Xochiir-ilco coiUains 1 8.1 6 sq: iniles, is 3.94 ft. aLove tlie City and receives the Canal de la Viga and the creeks of Tlalpam, San Angel and Sau Buenaventura. The eastern Chalco comprises 40-52 sq: miles, is 3.85 ft. above the City and receives the brooks of Tenango, Tlalmanalco and San Jose or Acuautla. The latter encloses the picturesque island, formed by the volcano of Xico and the volcanic pen- insula of Tlapacoya. Mineral-Waters of various qualities are found in the valley, especially around the City of Mexico, thus making them very easily accessible. The principal mineral baths are at present those of the «Penon de LOS Bangs », about 2^ miles east from the City, re- opened in 1891 and furniblied \Yith all the rec^uirc- ments of comfort and luxury. They contain soda- water of a temperature of 112^ Fah. and compete in curative qualities with the famous springs of Vichy, Carlsbad and Saratoga. Eeyond the bare lava hill of the extends the wide sheet of sall-water of the lake of Texcoco of a temperature of 68^ Fah. A spring of iron-water of 69- Fah. is in the « Hacien- da DE Aragon», about 3 miles north from the City with good accommodations. Another iron-spring is in the neighboring cCapilla del Pocno> of the choly> City of Guadalupe-Hidalgo, visited on the festival of the « Indian virgin* by thousands of pilgrims. Several sulphur-springs are in the ancient village of Ixtata- LAPAN (3^ miles south from the City), once the fa- vorite resort of the Aztec princes. (See the above U3 mentioned places in; Excursions through the Valley). Petroleum-wells are found near the northern city of Guadalupe and near {he southern town of Chalco. The Valley of Mexico encloses one of the most celebrated and important Hydraulic Works of the world, inaugurated in the year 1607 with the ill- famed «Tajo DE NocHiSTONGO* and to be terminated at the close of this century with the remarkable t Tun- nel OF Tequixquiac J. It will comprise then five canals of about 55 miles, a tunnel of about 6| miles, se- veral dams (calzadas), the basin (presa) of Oculma and the pumps (bombas) of San Lazaro, which caused an expenditure of about eighteen million pesos and the . loss of about 70,000 lives. Unfortunately, in spite of all these sacrifices the work will probably not answer its purpose and still remain incompleted. The his- tory of this work is just as interesting as it is cha- racteristic for the spirit of the times in Mexico. The purpose of all these expensive enterprises was to save the City of Mexico, (which occupies next to the lake of Texcoco the lowest depression of the valley), from inundation. This danger arises from the advent of rr.ins in a series of months and the situation of the City between six lakes, of which five are higher than the same. The course of all the inundations, which the City has suffered was generally the follow- ing; After very heavy rains the beds of the two most dangerous streams, the northwestern Cuautitlaa and the northeastern Papelote or Pachuca were filled, swelling the lake of Zumpango entirely. The super- 144 fiuous waters of this lake passed into the next two lower lakes Xaltocan and San Cristobal; they in tuna fdling lake Texcoco until it arose to the level of the City and overflowed its streets. In order to prevent the danger of inundation the Azlec had already employed certain protective me- thods, which consisted of stone-dams and canals, being used at the same time as means of traffic and intercourse. Immediately after each new inundation great precaution was generally exercised, but in the interim the necessity of the same was easily forgot- ten. Thus the prince Moctezuma I. after the inun- dation ol 14465 following the advice of the wise Chichimec prince Netzahualcoyotl, had a dam made of 7i miles long and about 22 yards wide through the lake of Texcoco, composed of clay-mortar and rocks. Upon the dam there was a wall of mortar and on the sides paling for break-water. This was a master-piece of Aztec hydraulics. After the fiood o( 1498, which was produced by the water-works of prince Ahuilzoll to the lake of Texcoco, the immense dam was still more widened and repaired. Later par- tition-walls were built between the lakes of San Cris- tobal and Xaltocan and in lake Zumpango, in order to avoid the communications of these with the lower lakes. The furious Spaniards foolishly destroyed after the conquest the famous dam of lake Texcoco, whose remains are still to be recognized in the San Lazaro- canal. After the first inundation, which the Spaniards experienced in 1553 in the newly rebuilt Mexico, they H5 endeavored to secure safety in the restauration of the Aztec dams. The second flood however of 1 580 proved the imperfection of the same. The licenciate Obregon and the M. A. Arciuiega proposed thereupon to the gov- ernment to build an artificial outlet for the dangerous stream of Cuautillan from the valley, between the hills of .Sincoque and Jalpan, eather either by means of a tunnel or a canal. But their effort was unheeded. After the third accident of 1 604 the Viceroy had the basin of Oculma built, northeast above the lake of Texco- co and the two dams between Guadalupe and San Antonio Abad and that of San Cristobal repaired. This Was insufhciently thorough. A fourth inundation follov/ing closely thereupon in 1607 decided to some energetic measures — probably in despair at the kind advice of king Philip III, who recommended to the citizens to move to Tacubaya. They however were not very much disposed to sepa- rate from their 30 millions worth of real estate. The new Viceroy Salinas gave therefore to the state geo- logist (cosmografo) Henry Martinez the comission to plan a system of drainage. He adopted the method recommended by Obregon-Arciniega of a conduit from the Cuautitlan, but suggested to begin opera- lions at the lake of Texcoco. The government de- termined again this time to slight the work and to build only a tunnel from the Cuautitlan to the river Tula, whose waters empty into the Panuco and thereby into the Atlantic Ocean. On the 28'^ of November 1607 the notorious cut OF NOCHISTONGO was begun by Martinez, at first in 146 the form of a tunnel. The Viceroy threw up the first spade of earth. Fifteen thousand Indians were at the same time ordered to work at wages of 62 1 centavos a week. They were tied together in gangs and treated like slaves, so cruelly and roughly, that thousands lost their lives. The loose earth increased the difiiculty of the undertaking. Ihe tunnel begun somewhat north of lake Zumpango, at the so-called mouth (boca) of San Gregorio of the river Cuauti- tlan and proceeded thence 4 miles to the north- west to a little fall of the Tula-river (El Salto). The tunnel was 4.2 yards wide and 4.5 yards high. The fiat arch consisted of marl and hardened clay (tepetate) and was not secured by supporting beams. After not quite eleven months, the IJ^'^ of Sep- tember 1608, the great tunnel stood ready for use and in December was solemnly inaugurated by the Viceroy and the Archbishop. Yet the tunnel soon showed itself very incomplete. The flat arch fell in partially. After a series of patch-work Martinez saw himself obliged to transform certain parts into open ditches. Experts disputed even the utility of the work entirely. Viceroy Guelves gave therefore iu 1623 to Martinez the order to suspend the improvements and some later to close the tunnel. Then came the rainy year of 1629. The critical rising of lake Texcoco reminded the government once more of the drainage-works and the viceroy Cerralvo sent Martinez again to repair his tunnel. During this work, on the 2ot'i of June, a terrible rain -spout sur- prised him and — it is said — the much persecuted en- 14-7 gineer took the bold resolution to convince all the doubtful and the envious of the usefulness of his work by a dramatic and very effective example. He stopped up the tunnel and left the city to its fate — to the greatest inundation, which the modern City ever had experienced. During the long period of five years it became again the Venice of the new world. Street- intercourse had to take place in boats and canoas and it was necessary to supply the houses with landing- places. Many buildings sunk in, traffic was paralized and great misery was rife among the people. In vain they brought the miracle-working picture of the virgin of Guadalupe to the City and equally in vain Philip IV. repealed to the council the friendly advice of his predecessor «to go west* to Tacubaya. Martinez was at once imprisoned, justified however his pro- ceedings with the excuse, that he intended only to save the costly but unfinished tunnel fiom entire des- truction by the floods. At this time the miner Simon Mendez of Valladolid (Morelia) proposed to the government to use the na- tural water-way of the river Tequixquiac as an outlet and to begin drainage at the lake of Texcoco, pro- ceeding through the lake of Xaltocan. He was al- lowed to begin the work, but aiter the people had somewhat recovered from the fright of the flood the project was again relinquished, patch-work v/as adopted once more and Martinez v/as ordered to the reparation of his tunnel. The master died (in 1632), poor and soon enough forgotten, until Humboldt made him known ail over the vforld; he received in 1878 a mo- 148 nument in the City. In 1634 a violent earthquake made a quick end of the inundation by a sudden swallowing-up of the waters. The greater earthquake of 1637, which injured the tunnel very badly, seems to have been a reminder of the drainage-work. A few years later the viceroy Villena assigned its completion to the Franciscan monks, ordered the transformation of the rest of the tunnel into a canal and the continuation of the same to lake Zumpango. Under the leadership of these pious engineers and on account of the indecision of the government the work was not terminated until 150 years later. These apostles of Christian charity treated the Indians however with the same cruelty and continued exterminating thousands of these poor creatures. For instance in cleaning the canal, gangs of 20--30 Indians were bound together and thus forced to fish out the collected debris from the running water. In this manner whole gangs frequently lost their lives. In 1 789 the gigantic canal of liuehuetc- ca, so admired and criticised by Humboldt was finally completed. It begins at the lock of Vertederos, west above the 'lake Zumpango and ends after a length of I2| miles at the above mentioned water-fall of the Tula river. It has partially a depth of 43--65 yards, a width of 93-120 yards and cost in spite of the modest wages (at last the Indians received 25 cts. daily) in round figures five million dollars. The greatest reproach against the work is the steepness of the high walls, which often attain 40--45 degrees. The City of Mexico has, it is true^ been saved 14-9 since ibe middle of the 1 7-1 century from great inondaiions, still the imperfection of the canal of Huehuetoca was always manifested in rainy years. In 1796 the engineers Cosme de Mier and Trespalacios ■were obliged to add a new and direct canal (of 5 miles) from Ziimpango to Huehuetoca and in 1798 still a third (of 8 miles in length) from the west-bank of San Cristobal to Zumpango. These two canals augmented the costs by 800,000 pesos and yearly by 3-4,000 pesos for the support of the same. Humboldt visited the drainage works in August 1803 and again in 1804 (January 9-12,) with the Viceroy and describes in « Political Essay of New Spain* (Vol. I, chap. 8) the prodigious impression which he experienced, in the following words: of Mexico (see p. 15). But in fact it is neither < tropic* nor ccold»: it produces neither bana- nas nor coco-nitts; but there are some years, when the swallows never with ouly one element or season. Thus Winter (Jan. -March) is the time in which the element earth is most striking. It includes in fact the driest months. The earth is therefore coyered with a sea of dust, which is agitated by each breath of air and during strong winds it seems, as if the whole world was turned into powder. The most re- markable phases of this time are the gigantic whirl- winds (remolinos) and the opaque clouds of dust which sometimes exclude the horizon, so that sun and moon are perceived dimly shining hke blood - red discs. Generally speaking the heavens in winter boast of a clear transparent blue and even the mountain- monsters are usually cloudless. Sudden changes, short moroing-raiits and frequent sharp winds are the most disagreable features of winter. On an average January is milder than December. The humidity of the air decreases constantly. The increasing evaporation of the lakes transforms the banks into marshes which at the end of March, toward morning and evening, fiU the air with bad odors. The trees begin to bud in the first weeks of the year and from the end of Ja- nuary on, various trees and plants are blooming, as pears, apricoLs, peaches, cherries, ahuacates etc. Dur- ing the mouth of March the swallows and other sum- mer-birds return and make themselves comfortable in the new foliage, The Spring (April-June) is the time when the heavenly fire makes itself most fdt: this is the real summer with the < dog-days » of Mexico, April is the 155 dtifest and equally the hottest month, the dampness of the air sinks to 10°/^; the amount of ozone arises; the barometer indicates the lowest pression and mer- cury rises exceptionally in the shade as high as 88'' and in the sun even to I20f> F. In May the fir-trains make their appearance; the humidity increases some- what and the heat decreases, although in June there ar^ still very warm days. In the latter month some heavy showers fall which form the introduction to the following season . In the Spring many trees are crowned with fruit, as Mexican cherries (capulines), pear, apple, apricots (cliavacanos), ahuacates, prickly pears etc. In the gardens of the «floating islands* afe found cucumber.^, melons and new potatoes. While tlie corn is slowly developing, we see the movver al- ready in April busy with the harvest in the wheat- arid barley-fields. In the street pedestrians hunt the shade of walls and houses, while the sunny-side re- mains deserted. The rich proprietors of lands and mines and the wealthy merchants flee the capital and seek cbuen retiro* (retirement) in the near garden- towns or in their «quinta;-> (country-villas). StJMMEW (July-September) meri's its name «1IME OF WATER* in the fullest sense of the word, for the wet element plays the mosl important part in nature. Seldom a day passes without a shower. There ar^ in these three months between 50 and 74 rainy days. August is the wettest month with an avera^H of 22 rainy days. These rains corne up generally in the afternoon, while the mornings are more or less clear. Only on the mountains the clouds hang in 156 thick gray masses. Suddenly arises a strong wind, the clouds become agitated, the heavens darken ra- pidly and, often accompanied by thunder and lighten- ing, a heavy shower pours down. The clouds gene- rally move from N. E. to S. W. In the last named jregion of the valley it rains therefore most often. The humidity increases constantly and attains as much as gg'/c September is the dampest month. The baro- meter reaches in July its highest pressure. Cloud- bursts (trombas or mangas de agua) are not rare in the valley and have often caused much damage. Al- most every year the country is visited by hailstorms, which sometimes leave the earth covered some inches deep with prodigious hail-stones. In the metropolis are seen after such a storm, enterprising collectors upon the roofs and in the open places, who gather the hailstones to sell them to hotels and ice-cream-dealers. In this season the landscape of the valley is most beautiful when the fields are thickly covered with high corn-stalks; and the gardens are fragrant with fruits and flowers. Particularly, soon after the rain, is the view charming. Everywhere are murmuring brooks, and laughing water which hurry to the lakes, whose beds have been considerably broadened. The mountains are then clearer, the air is refreshing and cool and in the east glistens the rain-bow, sometimes in double form. During violent storms the streets of the cap- ital are transformed for awhile into canals and re- mind you of old Aztec «:Tenochtitlan>. Yet with the help of the drainage-pumps in San Lazaro and the tropical sun, the water vanishes nearly as fast as it IS7 came. Usually after a quarter of an hour you can wander again on c terra iirma>. In the valley (Pachu* ca etc) the modern Aztecs wrap themselves up in a very curious kind of water-proof, in the «Pachon> of palm-leaves or couch grass, which makes them appear like porcupines. The rainy-season is altogether not so dreary and disagreeable as an English rainy Sum- mer and by no means as uncomfortably warm as a Summer in the U. S. In AuTL'MN (October-December), after the refresh- ing showers and the first cold northers, you are most sensitive to the cool change of air. The cold appears therefore in this time more acute, especially together with the heavy storms or northers. The rainy-sea- son seldom ends before November. The lowest tem- perature however is during the month of Decem- ber, when mercury in some exceptional cases falls down to 30'^ F., — in the open air even to 20^ F. The higher parts of the valley, as Pachuca etc, are still more disagreable in this time. The cold drizz- ling rain of this season is designated as (snow- water). The valley is often covered in the morning with frost, the mountains are clear and the white snow-shroud of Popocatepetl and Ixtacci- huatl falls much deeper over their slopes. In some years the summit ot the Ajusco too displays the white veil. In the commencement of this season the swal- lows begin their pilgrimage and clouds of other birds soon follow. The Aztecs appear wrapped up in their sbawls or blankets and the cautious Mexicans bind dosely nose and mouth. A little grate-fire would 158 now be the ideal of cosiness — but that remains un- happily in INIexican houses an empty wish. Diseases and Mortality: In spite of the mild cHmate the death-rate is in the valley « extraordinari- ly high>. This is caused especially by the above- mentioned sudden changes of temperatnre and humi- dity, the thin mountain-air, the pernicious evaporation from the lakes (sulphuric vraters), by the incomplete drainage and— last not least—by the filthy regimen of the lower classes. The latter live crowded together in those musty and dark tenement-houses, called and content themselves with peppered food of little strength and ragged clothes. Court and street are considered as depot for all kinds of dirt, which are left there for decomposition. In Summer the air is extremely damp and in Winter very dry and filled with dust and alcali. The climate seems to be very enervating, thus the many sudden changes become fatal to delicate persons, especially for those, who perspire easily and for small children. Chlorotic and scrofulous people are so often seen in the city, as to be striking and rheumatism and catarrh are two of the most corrmon ills «that flesh is heir to>. The DISEASES which cause the greatest mortality are those of the ORGANS OF RESPIRATION (particularly inflam- mation of lungs, consumption and bronchitis) and of the DIGESTIVE ORGANS (especially enteritis and en- terocolitis); next follow fevers, especially typhoid. The greatest mortality occurs among the poor and especially among their children. Only very recently have been collected in the Federal District more re- IS9 liable statistics; in all other places these are entirely wanting, so that there is no possibility of making comparisons. The detailed reports of mortality in the Federal District, published sir.ce 1 890 by the Secre- tary of the Government Mr. Islas y Bustamante con- tain the best data. In this district (of 463 sq: miles with 451,246 inhabitants) the mortality amounted in the foresaid year to 5,20^0, on an average, to 63 deaths daily. The highest per cent was in the suburb of Guadalupe 8, <)o°!„, the lowest in the village of Ox- totepec with 3,4 1 "Z^. In the first semestre the rate was greater than in the last, highest in January and February (influenza), lowest in November and Octo- ber. From July to September prevailed the diseases of the digestive organs, from October to May those of the respiratory organs. About I ,'5 of all deaths were caused by inflammation of the lungs (pneumonia), especially from January to April, most in February; about l/io are produced by enteritis, especially from July to August, with a majority of cases in September* Consumption, bronchitis, enterocolitis and fever com- prehend each about 1/29 ot the total death rate. Con- sumption demands the most sacrifices in January, April and August, bronchitis in January, February and De" cember and enterocolitis in July, August and June. The Natural Products are very rich in Variety and quantity. The mountain frame furnishes good building material (porphyry, basalt, amygdaloid etc) and sulphur in the crater of the Popocatepetl, In the northeast (at Pachuca) some of the finest silver mines of the country are found in the famous Analco-vein, i6o which for centuries has produced millions worth of ore. At the border of the lakes of Zumpango and Texcoco are deposits of soda (tequesquite). The fer- tility of the valley is demonstrated in the numerous fields and gardens. The former produce especiallyj Indian corn, wheat, barley, vetch and beans, further century -plants and prickly pears; the latter oranges, lemons, figs, apples, thorn-apples, pears, quinces apri- cots, peaches, Mexican cherries (capulines), ahuacates, white sapotas, nuts, olives etc. The largest and «tunaless are in the northeast, the finest fruit-gardens in the south and \vest. Xochimilco and Ayotla are rich in olives, San Angel in stra%v -berries, Tlalpam in apples, pears etc. The forests of the mountains contain various kinds of timber and construction woods (pine, cedar), medicinal and aromatic plants and there are many charcoal kilns. Cattle-raising is one of the principal objects of the many farms of the valley. In the mountains and on the lakes abounds game; in the former hare and rabbits; on the latter all kind of water-fowl, especially ducks, geese, plovers, coots, apipizcas, chichicuilotes etc. It is said that the In- dians bring each winter half a million of chichicuilo- tes and half a million of other water-fowl, to the market. The fish of the lakes, as white-fish, juiles, charales and metzlapiqucs, are very small but palatable ; an Indian delicacy are the sajolotes? (see p. 46). Political Division and Inhabitants: The broad valley encloses besides the Federal District of the City of Mexico, which occupies about one-fourth of its extension, six districts of the state of Mexico and i6i one of the state of Hidalgo: all together with 53 municipalidades and 32 raunicipios of about 800 com- muDities (among which are 10 cities and 15 towns) and about 800,000 inhabitants (with about 250,000 Aztecs and Otomites). The Distrito Federal with the capital of the Re- public occupies the southwestern part of the valley from the northern Sierra de Guadalupe to the southern Serrania de Ajusco, from the western Sierra de las Cruces to the shores of the lake of Texcoco. It is surrounded on three sides by districts of the state of Mexico and on the south by the state of Morelos. The D. F. comprises an area of 463 sq: miles, is divided into the municipality of the City of Mexico and 4 « Frefecturas > with 19 municipalities together with 451,246 inhabitants (in 18S9). Among these are 214,544 men and 226,559 women; 437,860 ca- tholics, 3,283 protestants and 1,503 freethinkers; 3,391 Spaniards, 1,261 Frenchmen, 1,007 Americans and English, 444 Italians, 40S Germans and Austrians etc.; only 162,855 persons know how to read and write; 144,472 persons have no occupation, 91,284 are scholars and students, 73,904 are servants and labo- rers, 67,729 are artesans, 22,240 merchants and clerks, 8,^51 soldiers and mariners, 7,458, government- employees etc. The capital of the D. F. is the *ClTY OF Mexico with 329,535 inhabitants. The four Prs- FECTURAS are: i^t Tacubaya with 23,550 inh.; di- (*) Places marked with "' are of special interest; see City of Mexico and Escursioas through the Valley, l63 vided into the four wes^tern municipalidades of Tacu- baya (12,027 inh.), Santa Fe — Cuajimalpa (6,083 inh.), Tacuba (3,188 inb.) and Mixcoac (2,252 inh.), cap: Tacubaya. — 2'-! Tlalpam with 35,381 inh.; divided into the five raunicip. at the southeast *Tlalpam (8,831 inh.) *San Angel (10,580 inh.), *Goyoacan (7,018 inh), *Ixtapalapa (5,825 inh.) and *Ixtacalco (3,127 inh.); cap: Tlalpam— 3'^^ XocHLMlLCO with 41,360 inh; divided into the eight municip. at the southwest *Xochimil- co (14,373 i"h.), Milpa-Alta (6,362 inh.), Hastahuacan (5,910 inh.), Tlahuac-Tlaitenco (5,271 inh), Tulyehualco (3,77.6 inh.), Ostotepec (1,876 inh.), Actopan (1,903 inh.), Mixquic (1,889 inh.); cap; Xochimilco. — 4*^ GUADALUPE-HiDAi.GO with 13,355 i"^i* divided into the two municip: at the north *Guadahipe-Hidalgo (6,566 inh.)and *Azcapotzalco (6,789 inh); cap: Gua- dalupe. Real Estate in the District was estimated in 1886 at .^109.848,978. There exist (in 18S8) 240 Schools whh 911 teachers; 284 catholic and 21 protestant Churches, 12 Libraries and 13 Observatories (see City of i^.Iexico); 7 Railroads, 40 2/3 miles of Street-Car-lines and 18 Tost- Offices. In 1888 the District produced according to A. Penafiel 429,825 bushels Indian corn, 71,500 B. wheat, 41,250 B. bar- ley and 4,125 B. beans (frijoles). The six districts of the state of Mexico, enclosed in the valley, are from northwest to southeast: ist Tlalnepantla, in the west and east corner of the Sierra de Guadalupe, with 53,946 inh. (in 1887), divided into the nine municip; *Tlalnepantla,CoacalcOj*San Cris- 163 t6bal de Ecatepec, Iluisquilucan, Iturbide, *Jilocingo de Islonteallo, Montebajo, *Villa Juarez de Naucalpan and Zaragoza; cap: Tlabiepantla. — 2^ GuAUTlTLAN, right beyondthe Sierra de Guadalupe, with 33,716 inh.; di* vided into the eight municip: *Cuautitlan, Coyotepec, *Haehuetoca, San Miguel-Tlaxomulco, '^Teoloyucan, *Te- potzotlan, *TultepeCj Tuhi'lan, cap: Cuautitlan. — '^^ ZuMPANGO with 27,957 inh.; divided into the six muuicip: *Zumpango, Apasco, Hueypoxtla, Jaltenco, Nexllalpan and *Tequixquiac; cap; Zumpango.— 4.tb Morelos with 31,355 inh.; divided iuto the seven municip: *Otumba> Axapusco, Ozumbilla de la Reforma, Nopaltepec, Tea- calco, Tecamac and Temascalapa; cap: Otumba.— 5^^ Texcoco, between lake Texcoco and Sierra Nevada; with 53,339 inh.; divided into the twelve municip: *Tex- coco, Acolman, Atenco, Chiautla, Chicoloapan, Chi- malhuacan, Chiconcuac, Magdalena, Papalotla, *San Juan Teotihuacan, *Tepetlaoxtoc and Tezoyuca; cap: Texcoco. — 6^^ Chalco, in the southeast corner of the valley, with 60.095 i"^-/ divided into the fifteen municip: *ChaIco, *Amecameca, Atlautla, Ayapango, Ayotzingo^ Cocotitlan, Cuautzingo, Ecatzingo, Ixtapaluca, *Ozum- ba, Temamatla, Tenango, Tepellixpa, *Tlalraanalco, Xuchitepec; cap: Chalco. The district of the state of Hidalgo, which is en- closed in the northeast corner of the valley, is the most important of the same, containing its capital. This is the district of Pachuca with 68,599 inh,; divided into the eight municip: *Pachuca,.Epazoyucan, *E1 Chico, *Real del Monte, Tezontepec, Tizayuca, Zempoala and Tolcayuca; cap: Pachuca. 1 64 The History oi the valley of Mexico almost com- prises that of the entire country, enclosing for cen- turies in the City of Mexico the capital of the same. It is very rich in interesting and romantic episodes, but as it would far surpass the limits of this book to enter even into a description of the most prominent historical events, I confine myself to a few remarks concerning the spirit of the times and history. The history of Mexico is generally divided into three epochs: Pagan Antiquity or the Period before the Conquest (x— 1521); Colonial Period or Plistory of New Spain (1521 — 1821); Independent Mexico (from 1821). The Period of Pagan Antiquity in the Valley of Mexico is characterized by a series of immigra- tions and numerous « guerrillas j (skirmishes) between the individual communities, tribes and nations. The fertility, safety and other advantages (water, caves for primitive dwellings etc) attracted the people. But the strongly expressed party-spirit or particularism and the blind fanaticism of the Indians interfered with the development of patriotism and tl.e formation of one whole and powerful nation. The struggle for existence was very hard, life was restless and uncer- tain and therefore so little progress v/as made in culture. The various tribes which inhabited the val- ley founded a number of communities of greater or less importance, each one governed by a lord or prince (tecuhtli) — rivalling with each other, until one or the other became subjected by a war. This de- pendence consisted generally only in the payment of 165 certain taxes (tribute). The Spaniards were so kind as to grant to the chiefs (tecuhtli) of these little principalities and free cities the title of or even of < emperor*. The history of t>ie valley is not very old: even with the fifteenth century the facts are lost in mystic legends; dales, personalities (princes and chiefs) and events are uncertain and confused. The Nahoas and Mecas conserved their history mostly in verbal tradi- tions, aided by certain monuments and documents which recorded in rough pictures (ideograms) the principal episodes of the same. The Indian historians were generally priests, who rather considered the accomplishment of certain religious ideas, than logic and correctness of the facts. Each tribe claimed for itself the greatest power and civilisation, its connection with the greatest chiefs and the foundation or con- quest of the most important cities. Some princes or chiefs appear as immortal and omnipresent as the errant Jew ! The CHRONOLOGY of the Nahoas, although calculating the duration of the solar year rather exactly, became very complicated by the various improve- ments and the division into periods of four, thirteen and fifty-two years. After the conquest it was es- pecially the missionaries (monks and priests), who took an interest in the history of the Indians and collected their legends and traditions. They were however more anxious to depict in striking colors the wrongs of paganism, than to really understand the people. In their religious fanaticism they sought to find in certain Indian picture-writings, legends and customs i66 the proof of mysterious passages of the Bible, Ac- cording to this idea the Indians, like all other people, must of course have descended from the famous couple of Eden and consequently be Jews. The first < au- thority* of this narrow theory was Father Olmos, one of the earliest Franciscans, whose historical studies are only known by the quotations of Mendieta etc. Du- ran and Garcia declared the Indians to be the tribe of Jews, mentioned in the book of Ezra. To prove the descent of the Indians from the Jews, Lord Kingsborough published his luxurious edition of < Mexican Antiquities >, to which Humboldt contributed. The Indian legends of the creation, of floods and emigrations were all transformed according to biblical style. Siguenza, Clavijero, Humboldt etc. saw in the period of water (sun of water) the deluge of the Bible and < discovered* even a Mexican Noah. Tenoch, the priestly guide of the Aztecs became through other historians the Moses of the Mexicans, The more pious thatn logical Indian historian Ixllilxochitl recognized ^n the pyramid of Cholula a Mexican tower of Babel and even calculated with a generous sacrifice of well established arithmetical rules, that in the year cf the crucifixion an earthquake was felt in Mexico. The discovery of crosses was regarded as an evidence of prehistoric knowledge of Christianity and Gomara even encountered in the mysterious Toltec Quetzalcoatl (God of Wind) the unbelieving Thomas*, lost in the New Testament. With these imaginative « pious* ex- poundejs the < learned* rivalled, who endeavored to enlighten some unintelligible phrases of Greek, Latin 167 aad Chinese classics by Indian traditions and civili- sation. The P'ranciscan monk Toribio de Benavente (Motolinia) started these < scientific* phantasms with the declaration J that the Mexicans are probably Carthaginians — because an ancient writer mentioned, that some of them sailed in Iheir ships towards the west! Others pronounced them to be Egyptians and Humboldt inclined to the idea, that they belong to one of the nomadic Mongolian tribes of Northern Asia. But could not this wonderful part of the world produce men just as well as the old world ? A thorough study of antiquities will convince the inquisitive, that Mex- ican civilisation is at least original and closely united with the nature of this country !! There were no ancient or primitive people in the world with which the Aztecs had not some ideas in common ! From the disfigured and counterfeited traditions one may easily perceive that the Valley of Mexico was inhabited at different times by various tribes and nations who rivalled with each other for the sovereign- ty. The Oto.mites or Otoncas, who founded many of the important cities, as Xaltocan, Otumba, Tula etc, are considered as aborigenes. The fall of the ancient empire of the Tlapaltecas about 583-96, to which belonged as well the Nahoas (Toltecs, Aztecs etc) as the Mecas, caused a general migration of the above named tribes, some of them reaching the Valley of Mexico. The first emigrants were the Mecas (from metl, century plant), especially Ulmecas and Chichimecs, which settled in Nonoalco (Nonoalcas or Vixtoti), in 63^5 7 1 68 in Cuaulitlan, in 639 in Santa Barbara (Ocotlipan), in 647 in Amecameca, in 669 in Culhuacan etc. and built the pyramids of Teotihuacan and Cholula (?)• In the eighth century the Toltecs (from tule, reed and tecalt, person) appear in the valley and occupy several of the Chichimec settlements as Teotihuacan etc. They are followed in 885 by the famous Aztecs (from their native country Aztlan or Aztatlan: place of the heron and «tecatlj, person — according to Chave- ro on the island of Mexticacan on the coast-lake of San Pedro in Jalisco) which arrived here three hundred and fifty -two years after[ their exodus from Aztlan or Chicomoztoc (seven caves) and sought for four hundred and twenty-seven years the promised place of god Mexitl, where they could settle permanently. I'he first colony, which they founded in this valley was on the island Xico (accord ing to Garcfa Cubas), in the lake of Chalco (885-908), from this place they emigrated afterwards (according to Chavero) to Zacualco (960- 1012?), Coatepec, Tula (about II16), Jalpan, Zum- pango, Apazco, Cuautitlan, Tacubaya, Atlacuihayan (about 1270), Chapultepec (1 2 79-99 ?) the western islands of Acocolco, Mexicaltzingo (1304), Ixtacalco (1309-10) etc, until they reached in 1312 (according to SigUenza) the islands^]|of Tenochtitlan (City of Mexico, which see) where they at last encountered the land of promise. Soc^ after the foundation of the City the Indian party-spirit developed so strougly that the dissatisfied moved to the neighboring islands at the north and founded there in 1325 (or 1338) the city of Tlaitelolco, which in 1473 was conquered by the l69 inhabitants of Tenochtitlan and became united with the latter city. Till 1428 the Aztecs were tributary to the Chichimec princes of Atzcapotzalco but in the latter year they liberated themselves of this yoke and formed from 1430 with the Chichimec principality of AcoLHUACAN (Texcoco) and the little Tepanec prin- cipality of Tlacopan (Tacuba) that powerful triple ALLIANCE, which gradually dominated nearly the whole country. The construction of this empire was however of a very unsubstantial character. In the territory of the same were several independent free cities (as Tlaxcakj Iluexotzinco, Cholula etc) and the subjection of most of the others consisted only in the payment of certain produce as taxes. Thus it was possible that in 1521 a few hundred daring and wily Spanish adventurers could easily overthrow this power with the aid of the many envious and discontented vassals, taking advantage of the narrow-minded, revengeful and fanatical character of the Indians. During the Colonial Epoch the valley of Mexico became the heart of one of the most extensive em- pires of the world, the Viceroyalty of New Spain, which extended over more than twenty degrees of northern latitude. From this valley the civilisation of the old world was first propagated on the continent of the New World: from here the Christian, < religion of charity J, together with many useful modern sciences and arts, were introduced in the country — but, alas, also the sacrifices of the Inquisition, the cruel pas- time of bullfights, slavery of the Indians and Ne- groes etc. Out of the ruins of the Aztec island city 170 of Tenochtillan crose ihe solid Spanish City of Mexi- co, witli one of the largest and finest Cathedrals of the New World and several other remarkable build- ings. Around the City was grouped a ring of garden- towns with Spanish country-houses, parks and orchards. After the discovery of the rich silver mines of Pachu- ca a settlement was made there, which about 1534 received the rights of a c pueblo*. Here the miner Bartolome de Medina invented (1557) the important process of amalgamation, called tbeneficio de patio > (see p. 77). The various inundations of the City (see p. 153) caused the government to baild 1607- 1798 the famous iTajo de Nochistongo* (see p. 143) and the want of good drinking water incited the viceroys to erect the arched aqueducts of Santa Fe (finished 1 620) and of Chapultepec (finished in 1 7 79) forming in its remains a more characteristic than handsome monument in the valley. The aqueduct OF Santa Fe is nourished by the water of the sources of and cEl Desierto>, 18.63 miles S. W. from the City, which unites in and are conducted in an open canal, passing near the village San Pedro Cuajimalpa, Molino Viejo, receiving near Casa Mata the water of the springs of Santa Fe, passes then the northern side of the park of Chapultepec, traverses the highway and enters the City at the suburb of San Cosme. This aq^ueduct is 6.33 m. long, consisted formerly of about 900 arches of masonry and cost §150,000, The aqueduct, only Chapultepdc (which see) carries the water of the sources in the park, is 2.04 m, long, consisted formerly 171 of 904. arches, which L ordered the highway of Cha- pultepec and the aveaue of Beltm and ended in the City with the fountain « Salto del Agua ^, rich- ly adorned in the renaissance style. The arches occupied the place of the old Aztec aqueduct from Chapultepec, erected, under prince Chimalpopoca (1417-27) and destroyed by Cortes in 1521 dur- ing the siege of the City. In the three hundred years of the Colonial Epoch the destiny of New Spain was directed from 1521-28 by five govern- ors, from 1528-35 by two councils (audiencias) and from 1535-1821 by sixty two viceroys, (which at first were rather independent, but afterwards became responsable to the king of Spain and the powerful • Council of Indias>, Consejo de Indias, founded 1524). Among the viceroys only one was born in America: the Peruvian Juan de Acufia, Marquis de Casa Fuerte (1722-34); Pedro Nuno de Colon, Duke de Veraguas was a descendent of Christopher Columbus (1673) and Jose Sarmiento Valladares a relative of the Aztec < emperors Moctezuma. The mother-country endeav- ored to make the colony completely dependent and to profit of it as much as possible. Agriculture, in- dustry and commerce were harshly restricted. Edu- cation was monopolized by the. clergy, the finest real estate, the most profitable commerce and the most influential government oftices by the native Spaniards. Just as rotten as the political affairs were also the social conditions in the country. A great part of the conquered Indians were made slaves and like the introduced negro-blaves treated like pariahs. Among 172 the Spaniards a great rivalry predominated: those born in America (crioilos) envied the native Spaniards (gachupines) on account of the preference given them by the government and even the latter were divided into two hostile parties: the Montaneses and the Viz- cainos, according to the two principal Spanish pro- vinces of emigration. These great contrasts in socie- ty and the narrow party-spirit prevented for centuries a successful outbreaic of the general dissatisfaction. The mutinies begun however even in 1566. Finally the holy spirit of freedom descended upon the people and after many hard struggles (1810-21) indepen- dence was obtained. On the summit of the western mountain-frame of the valley of Mexico the first heroe, the priest Hidalgo, fought on October 30, 1 810 the victorious battle of the Monte de las Cruces. In the little town of San Cristobal Ecatepec, near the lake of San Cristobal, his follower, the priest Morelos, sentenced to death by the Inquisition, was executed, on December 22, i3i5. On September 27, 1821 Agustin Iturbide made his triumphal entry into the City, the capital of a free country. Indepexdent Mexico must however endure many revolutions and metamorphoses, incited by ambitious leaders and the rivalry of parties, which not only hindered the progress of the country, but brought it into many difficulties with foreign nations, causing the loss of about half of its territory. During the War with the United States (1846-48) the Amer- icans entered August 9, 1847 the Valley of Mexico; August 2ot'i, defeated the Mexican army at Padierna 173 and Chunibusco; carried September S^^, the positions of Casa Mata and Molino del Rey; stormed Septem- ber I2tii and 13*11 the Castle of Chapultepec, took on the afternoon of the latter day possession of the gates of Belera and Cosme and occupied September l^tu the City of Mexico. In the near city of Guada- lupe-Hidalgo peace was made by the treaty of Februa- ry 2, 184S. The War of Intehvention (186 1 -6 7) brought French soldiers into the valley, which occupied the City June 9, 1863. On June 12, 1864 the Archduke Maximilian of Austria made his entry as c Emperor* of Mexico. During the seventy years of independence (1821-91) Mexico had five regencies, two emperors and forty-five dictators or presidents; two of the latter, Juarez, and Diaz, being of pure Indian blood. In 1897 and 1876 the country has been re- conquered by the aborigines and is at present, under the government of General Diaz, in a more prosperous condition than it ever was before. ^C>00 0<>00<>00<>OG>00;i % c c o n^ ^ a 1 1 . ^HE ^ITY OF -^^IeXICO. "The City of Mexico ought doubtless to le considered araong t?ie most beautiful cities, which the Europec.ns have font'ded in either hemis- phere " "/ must confess, that this Ciij has irajpres" scd me loith a certain idea of grandeur, which I attribute pnncipaUy to its character of oieignif.cence, accorded h.y the situation and the 'nature of its surroundings.^' Humboldt, Politic'.l Essay of y,^-,'-, Spain. Vol. J, Book in, Chop. VIII. (General Features and a Picture of the City. Most interest- ing Sights. Situation Area and Inhabitants. Climate and Mortalily. Government, Division of the City and the New Street Nomenclature. Statistic Items. Historical Sketch. Arrival. Useful Addresses: Railroads, Depots, Street-cars and Hacks, Hotels, Restaurants and Baths, Hospita', Protestant Church, Public Buildings and OfSces, etc ) ■^^EARLY central in the valley, in its southern partition (see p. 128), about two miles and a half from the western shore of the wide lake of Texcoco and about the same distance from the foot hills of the low and bare Sierra de Guadalupe (seep. 139) stands 175 the cosmopolitan City of Mexico — for centuries the metropolis of the country. It is, on account of its picturesque situation and its romantic history, one of the most interesting cities of this continent. Founded as by the warlike Aztecs, it was then embraced by the salty waters of lake Texcoco and consisted, like Venice, of a series of islands. Modern Mexico is now a solid city on « terra firma», the ca- pital of the Republic and of the Federal District, the seat of these governments and of an Archbishop, the first industrial and commercial city of the country and central point of railroads, mail-and telegraph-service. Two arched aqueducts and four hundred and eighty three artesian wells provide the City with drinking water and four hundred and thirty -three focus of electric light illuminate its streets. Mexico boasts of a mint, three banks with a paid capital of fourteen and a half million pesos, seven railroads, complete street -car and telephone net-system, a universi- ty (Escuela Preparatoria), academies of art, music, medicine, engineering, a military school (Chapul- tepec), an agricultural college, an astronomical and a meteorological observatory, six museums of anti- quity and natural history, an art gallery, a small botanical and zoological garden, a nursery of plants (Jardin de propagacion), eleven libraries with about 200,000 volumics, and twenty-one scientific societies, a pretty central park (Alameda) a, very picturesque promenade (Paseo de la Reforma) of over two miles in length etc. (See Statistic Items). The modern City arose from the ruins of Tenoch- 176 titlan as a genuine Spanish town and became the model of all Mexican cities. From a birds-eye-view the sea of houses makes a very strange impression and reminds one with the conspicuously light coloring of the walls, the blue sky and the dazzling sun-shine, of a picture of the orient. The flat roofs (azoteas) are often used as garden or still oftener as a place for drying clothes and large barrels are seen upon others for collecting the water. Looking over the City one notices the broad courts and misses the forest of smoking chimneys, which characterizes northern cities. Numerous domes and towers of dilYerent heights and forms, partially covered with bright-colored tiles, sur- mount the houses and sparkle in the sun-shine. The stately dome and the prodigious towers of the ca- thedral dominate all else. The high and dense ^roup of trees in the west reveal the shady and cosey park (Alameda), the c breathing-place > of the Mexicans and other green spots mark the numerous squares of the city. The rows of houses, are so uniform, that they seem a continuous wall. The Ascent of the Towers of the Cathedral offers , which even charmed world-wanderers, such as Humboldt (see p. 117) etc. The towers are situated about in the center of the old City and that of the east marks probably the western boundary of the main temple, dedicated to Huitzilopochtli and Tlaloc, comprising the parish cEl Sagrarios and the little garden at its side. Beginning the review of the City and Valley from the balcony of the east-tower and look- 177 ing towards the South the eyes are first attracted by the evergreen garden of the *Plaza de la Cons- TlTUCiON>, surrounding the Moorish music stand of the Zocalo. This square is the heart of the Spanish City and was already of the Aztec Tenochtitlan, con- taining then as now the principal buildings of the City. East from the temple (back of the old Convent OF Santa Teresa) was formerly the palace of prince Axayacatl, where Cortes resided and Moctezuma died as prisoner. There where to-day stands the mono- tonous *National Palace was formerly the «New Houses of Moctezuma. On the south-side was the market El Volador; at the place of the gaily co- lored Portal de las Flores, an Aztec Theatre and the temple of Quetzalcoatl; on the southwest corner on the site of the City Hall was the Tlillancalqui the palace of the commander in chief. In the place of the western Portal de Mercaderes stood the Indian dancing-school, the Cuicoyan, and opposite of the Cathedral arose the extensive palace of Mocte- zuma, now partially occupied by the National Pawn- Shop. An abundance of notable historical recollections encompass ihis place, which in the course of centu- ries has experienced telling changes 1 (see the follow- ing Historical Sketch). Turning the gaze toward south-east one first notices the yellow tile -covered tower of the church «de Balvanera>, farther back the angular dome and little round tower of the yel- lowish church San Jose de Gracla and still farther the small tower and the stately dome of San Pablo, near the place of the Aztec temple of Ayauhculti- 178 ilan, in the quarter of Teopan. The western dome near it belongs to the chapel of the old College de San Pablo, now used as City-IIospital (Hospital Juarez). In the background merges in this direction from the valley, the isolated hill of Ixtapalapam, once crowned by the temple of the fire-god, where the Aztecs celebrated the beginning of each new period of fifty-two years. Somewhat east of this is another isolated elevation, the Penon viejo and behind it arises the volcanic « Serrania de Santa CATARINA2 and «DE Acosacj. Southwest from San Pablo is the curious little old church of *Santa Cruz Acatlan and a little more toward the west, on the old highway of Ixtapalapan (now Calie Sur 7) a little tower indicates the former church San Antonio Abad, built over the ruins of the fortified Azt«c temple of Xoloc. Directly before and in the south looms up the tower of Jesus Nazareno, surmounted by an angel— this is the site of the Aztec temple and precinct Iluitzilan, where Cortes was received by Moctezuma. The two little towers and the dome behind this building belong to the parish of San Miguel. Close and above the City Hall is noticeable the fifth story of the«pALACio DE Hierro>, Mexico's highest build- ing. West from there rises above the sea of houses the fine church of San Agustin row the *National Library. The gable-formed tin-roof near it shelters the :.iarket-hall of San Juan or Iturbide, oc- cupying the Aztec market of Tecoyahualco in the quarter of Moyotla. The dwarfy towers toward the west belongs to the church of San Jose and the next 179 one to that of Sam Juan de la Penitencia. The vast red building with the little quadrangular win. dows is the Colegio de la Paz. South from the City various avenues penetrate the valley, which here is bordered by the jagged Sierra de Ajusco (see P- 139). Toward the West turn the principal arteries of traffic, as for instance the elegant Avenida Orienle 4 the shopping paradise of Mexico. Above the same emerge the two towers and the octogonal cupola of the fashionable parish *La Profesa and the high vault and dome of old *San Franxisco which oc- cupies the place of Moctezuma's zoological garden. At the end of the Avenida Oriente 2, the portico of the National Theatre forms a fine architectural finish. The dense group of trees behind reveals the charming central park of the ^Alameda, the poetical transformation of an Indian market. North from there on the old highway of Tacuba appear the small towers of San Juan de Digs, Santa Veracruz and San Hipolito (formerly the Aztec prison for the sacrificial slaves). The far background, beneath the woody Sierra de las Cruces (see p. 138), is bor- dered by a chain of garden-cities. The diagonally situated building with a gable-roof, which in the north- west looms up over the National Pawn-shop is the former Theatre Iturbide the present House of Con- gress and the yellow tower and little dome belong to the ugly church of Nuestra Senora de la Con- cepcion. In the farthest North are, towards the west, first i8o conspicuous the dome and towers of Nuestra Seno- RA DE LOS Angeles and somewhat more to the east the ruin of the venerable parish of ♦Santia- go TlaltelolcOj on the famous old Aztec market of Tlaltelolco, the northern suburb of Tenochtitlan; one of its small towers was never completed. North and back of the Cathedral is the old Dominican church of *Santo Domingo (whose tower and dome- lantern are covered with yellow tiles); farther north is the carious parish of Santa Catarina Mar- TiR and the chapel of Santa Ana; the former oc- cupies the site of the Aztec temple of Tezontlalama- coyocan and the latter the Armory of Xacaculco. The high bell-shaped cujsola south from these places crowns the church of the convent Nuestra Senora DE la Encarnacion. The old building noticeable before the same is the former convent of La Ense- nanza Antigua, now the Palace of Justice. The straight avenue which turns from the City toward the north leads to the *Sanctuary of Guadalupe, below the hills of this name (see p. 139). In the northeast of the City the little tower of the parish San Sebastian is visible, erected on the site of the Aztec temple of the quarter of Atzacualco, south of the same rises the angular tower of San Pedro y Paelo and the stately dome of LoretC'. In the East attention is first attracted by the magni- ficent dome of *Santa Teresa la Antigua sur- rounded by classic columns, the sparkling yellow tiles of the cupola of Santa Ines and the richly orna- mented facade, tower and dome of the *Santisima. i8i Behind the National Palace is seen the projecting corner of the *NatIONAL ACADEMY of fine arts (San Carlos), conspicuous by its Gothic windows and behind the same rears its head the tiny tile-tower and the octo- gonal dome of Jesus Maria and farther east appear the two little round towers and the stately cupola of the large, modern parish of Soledad de Santa Cruz. Northeast from the City on the shores of lake Texcoco is seen the isolated hill of Penon de los Bangs with the elegant bath establishments. South of this hill, on the other side of the lake, is the lofty mountain-group of the Cerro de Chimaliiuacan and behind it the picturesque Sierra Nevada towers aloft with its snow-covered mountain giants Ixtaccihuatl and Po- pocatepetl (see p. 129-135). The STREETS are generally rather broad and ma- ny run straight into the valley, so that the mountains form a panoramic background. The main-streets are now right smooth and lately have been paved with ^yood or asphaltum, whilst in the suburban quarters, especially in the east, the rough and dirty country- road with the coal-oil lamp suspended on a wire over its center and the pestilential gutter in the middle, still predominates, as a reminder of good old Spanish times. The high telegraph-posts with their masses of wire and the simple scaffolds of electric light bound the side-walks and make the streets more curious than beautiful. The Squares are generally situated in front of a church and are surrounded by stately buildings, whose lower story forms in some places open halls (portales). 1 8^ From the Main Square (Plaza de la Conslitucion) these halls extend towards the west and lend a distinctive character to the Sixth East Avenue. Other interest- ing places, architecturally speaking, are in the center, the short Second East Avenue, terminated by the imposing portico of the National Theater and the colossal tower of the cathedral, further the Fourth East Avenue, the Plaza de Santo Domingo and in the new quarters, the Paseo de la Reforma. The HOUSES with their white or weather-stained paint generally make a shabby, tedious and mono- tonous appearance. They all have below either a row of little stores or windows with prison-like grat- ing of iron. In the upper stories is to the contrary for each opening the unavoidable balcony, whose railing is generally entwined with an ornately woven palm- branch, a souvenir of last Palm Sunday. During the heat of the day windows and balconies are generally protected on the exterior by gray cotton shades. Striking are, among the old dwellings, some buildings with a rich stucco ornamentation, especially above doors and windows. Under the cornice project phantastically into the street long rain-spouts in the form of can- nons, griffins or dragons; in the center and at one corner the walls are extended somewhat above the roof and ornamented with niches, in which a cross or a Saint is placed. The most remarkable buildings of this kind are the present Hotel Iturbide, the National Bank, the former residence of the Count of Santiago (Calle Sur 7 N^ 1,022), the house of Wells, Fargo y C^ Calle Sur 3, N^ 28 etc. Likewise m.ore peculiar than beautiful appears 183 the gay tile trimming of the , a « Foun- tain of Intoxication > a , and cThe last day of Pompeii >, < The Orgies of Bacchus > etc. The outer and inner walls are often gaily frescoed in the style and quaUty of Pompeian saloons. The broad, high entrance of the house, still often provided with the mediaeval metal-knocker generally stands open and permits a glance into the interior, toward the < patio >j a square or rectangular court. This is the soul of the house. In the palaces, it is often very extensive and both above and below surrounded by lofty arched halls. Sometimes there is a fountain in the center or in the rear, bordered by trees or beds of flowers. Broad stairs lead in the background of the lower vestibule to the upper gallery, ornamented by 1 84 rare tropical plants. Around this court, opening into it, are the different apartments, as in the Roman house, which has served as a model to the Spaniards. In these houses the lower part is generally used as a store or office, the living rooms being usually in the upper stories. The largest of them have even one or more back-courts, around which are grouped stables, barns, servant -quarters and kitchen. Characteristic examples of these aristocratic Mexican dwellings are the above mentioned houses (see p. 182). In striking contrast to these ample palaces are the crowded tenement-houses (vecindades) of the poor. They seem to have been modelled according to "the old Mexican community-dwellings. The court of these houses is long, but very narrow, furnished with foun- tain and stairs. Above and below are a series of obscure arid more or less damp rooms, whose only opening for air and light is the door leading into the court. Each room usually forms a dwelling, which suffices as kitchen, bed, dining, and sitting-room for a numerous family. The CHURCHES of the capital too, are generally speaking, monotonously uniform and have mostly ta- ken their example eTther from the serious Cathedral or from its over-ornamented annex, the «Sagrario>. The square-shaped towers rear their heads more or less high into the air, with open arches and bell-shaped tops and behind them vaults the octagonal or round dome. The front with its main entrance has either a simple decoration of columns like the Cathedral, or is in Re- naissance-style, overladen with stucco (called testilo i85 churrigueresco) as in the «Sagrarioj. In the interior there is a predilection for the Roman arch and .for a conspicuous and tasteless decoration. Since the last empire, about a quarter of a century ^§0) ^ great transformation has taken place in the capital. It has not only increased its dimensions considerably, but has also sacrificed the exclusiveness of the heavy and tedious Spanish style of architecture and allowed the free development of all theories, even in the center of the City. Buildings have aug- Tnented in height too, thus the city since 1891 boasts a five-story-house in the tPalacio de Ilierroj. The little shops have given way to luxurious modern stores, as the above named house etc; especially for dry- goods, hard-ware and drug-stores. Together with the old Mexican building material of adobe and amygda- loid, iron and marble are frequently employed. Among the modern buildings the « Queen Anne style* with steep slate-gable, mansard-roof, little towers and bay- windows are used in preference, especially in the resi- dences of wealthy English and Americans. Besides we find also classical orders of pillars, Gothic arches and Moorish fancies. Even Aztec architecture has been revived since 1891 in the residence of the Inspector of Antiquities, Mr. Batres, and the Paris Exhibition building. The best example of this modern collection of architect- ural fashions is the long and broad avenue of the «Paseo de la Reformat. North from this elegant and picturesque promenade entirely new quarters have grown up. Nearest is the oldest and most aristocra- tic suburb, the «Colonia de los Arquitectos?. Op- 1 86 posite in the North is the and on the east, nearer the center of the city, joins it the more popular sColonia de Guerrero >. Still much stranger and more peculiar than the ar- chitecture are the street-scenes. The population is here extremely cosmopolitan and the society full of contrasts. Together with the most arrogant wealth we see such ragged misery as is seldom witnessed in other capitalb of the civilized world. Generally life in the City is still rather old fashioned, quiet and earnest, especially as compared with American cities of this size — although in this direction too a certain pro- gress is undeniable. At an early morning hour, at noon and at night, the streets seem almost deserted. Only from 9 to 12 a. m. and from 3 to 6 p. m. the City wakes into real activity. The morning hours are devoted to shopping, and the afternoon hours to a promenade through the Fourth Avenida Oriente, from the Main Square to the Alameda or further to the Paseo de la Reforma, especially on Sunday and on Thursday. It is not necessary to be very ob- serving in order to notice the abundance of inter- esting figures and groups, which one encounters at every step. Mexico is so rich in peculiarities that they appear on every hand. Here you see a row of elegant carriages of the most modern type , as brougham, hansoms, surreys etc, followed by a two- wheeled cart wuth barrels of pulque, a caravan of shaggy donkeys, some Mexican dudes or lagartijos on horseback (in the old-fashioned Spanish costume with the gold embroidered suit) and a street-car with 187 a coffin. There .you encounter grotesque groups of leather-dressed Aguadores (the Mexican Neptunes) with jar and pitcher, the white-clothed porters (carga- dores) with a curious pillow-case to lighten their burdens, an Indian dealer in pottery (oUero) or vegetables with a high dosser of sticks (huacal or cacaxtle) or a leather-basket (petaca), accompanied by his ragged wife, who carries in a sack of sisal hemp (ayate) the fat, dirty, unkempt «papoose>; further the drunkards as street-sweepers, the c pious > beggars, the vendors of sheep-heads, sweet-meats (dulce) ice-cream (nevero), fruit (fruteros), wafers (barqurtlero), gelatine (jaletine- ro), lottery-tickets and newspapers. Under the arcades (portales) you find ,the public penman, the cevan- gelista>, the harmless Mexican «sirene> or CHIERA and the numerous antiquarians. Before the churches the SACRISTAN invites you to contribute to a crown for the virgin of Guadalupe or to hear the «last> mass. In the MARKETS you will enjoy seeing even in the midst of Winter fruits and vegetables. Interesting sights of this place are the Indian drug -stores, the wo- men selling < tortillas > and the . Who- ever understands courting will every now and then notice on the high balcony or behind the grating of the window a longing dulcinea (sweetheart), corresponding by signs and sighs with her (li- terally , figurative «beau>) — (ladies), the short, gay skirts of the « chinas 3 (peasant girls) and the jaunty < sombrero > (hat) of the tcaballeros* (gen- i88 tlemen) disappear unfortunately more and more in the City with the present inclination for modern in- ventions. More persistent is however the taste for ceremony, one of the main features of Mexican char- acter. You still witness the hearty embrace, combined with a gentle tapping of the shoulder or with a double kiss at the street-meeting of acquaintances. You still observe the men reverentially raise the hat on pass- ing the church or when the bells ring or even see them kneeling down on tlic pavement, wh'en a priest passes, carrying the sacrament (viatico). (See p. 92- loi). Sightseeing may be « hurriedly* done in the City in three days ' and with the suburbs in seven days (see p. 1 1 7 etc). Most of the important places can be seen at any time, with exception of the museum, art-gallery and National library. The best time for visiting the churches is, on account of the light, the forenoon. A Sunday forenoon ought to be reserved for seeing the Alameda and the afiernoon for the Paseo de la Reforma. The Museum is closed on Saturdays. In none of the places fees are to be paid. A general idea of the City is best obtained by a birds-eye-view from the towers of the Cathedral (see p. 176), Life in the City is especially interesting during certain fes- tivals (see p. 96). BuU-and-cock-fights are here prohi- bited. As the new nomenclature (see p. 190) di- vides the City according to the four cardinal points into four parts, I, too, have arranged the sightseeing in the City in the following chapter « Street Ram- BLINGS* into four «TouRS>, to guide the stranger in a I $9 more practical and systematical way, than all the other so-called guides. The most important sights are in the old Southeast-Quarter, which contains the Main Square, Cathedral, National Palace (Museum) Art-Gallery etc. Beginning at an early hour they may be seen in one day. The second day may be spent in the old Northeast Quarter and the tliird in the modern South-east and Southwest Quarters (see p. 193 and Third Part Street-Ramblings). Situation, Area and Inhabitants: The City, spread- ing out largely toward the west, is at present of very irregular form. It is situated according to the inscription of the Martinez monument in north latitude I9°26'4.5" and in west longitude 99"6'42.6" (or 6 hours 36 minutes and 26 seconds) from Greenwich^ 7,439 ft. above sea-level (or 7,468.56 ft. according to Humboldt). The old Spanish City, grouped around the Main Square, contained only about 125 blocks or an area of 3/5 sq: mile, and exten^ded nearly from Avenida Oriente 7 to 18 and from Calle Norte and Sur to Calle Norte and Sur 15. At the end of the 18*^^ century it had grown on each side about three or four blocks farther, thus containing nearly Ij sq: miles. With the new western suburbs (colonias) it covers now an area of about 5 sq; m., enclosing over 600 BLOCKS (manzanas) with 934 streets, 80 SQUARES and about 6,000 houses, mostly two or three stories high, built ot sun-dried mud-bricks (adobes), porous amygdaloid (tezontle), white and red sand-stone, porphyry etc. Real Estate was esti- mated in 1890 at $136,413,182, (in 1 607 at thirty 190 and in 1630 at forty millions; in 1856 the Church alone possessed 1573 houses, worth $13,678,209; in 1880 real estate amounted to $54,884,424). Cor- tes estimated in 1524 the population of the new- ly rebuilt City at 30,000 souls; in 1793 it con- tained 112,926 and in 1889, 329,535 inhabitants (see Historical Sketch). The climate of the city has already been char- acterized in a general way in that of the valley (see p. 152) and thus follow here only comprehensive dates of the principal meteorological appearances, ac- cording to the observations of the Central Observa- tory of the City during the fifteen years 1877-9I: Barometer vacilates between 22.786 and 23.344 inches; yearly medium 23.087 inch. Thermometer ranges in the shade between 29" and 88.8" Fah: yearly medium 59.9'^ Fah.; (Jan.-March 57%, April- June 63.5^ July-Sept. 61.8", Oct.-Dec. 56.3" Fah.) Humidity of the air changes from lo,"^ to 99^; me- dium during the year 61^; (Jan.-March 52^, April- June 54%, July-Sept. 70,^, Oct.-Dec. 64^). Evapo- ration; daily medium in the shade, 0.098 inch., in the sun 0.25 inch. Rainy days from 102 to 167 a year, on an average 1 39 days (Jan.-March 13, April-June 42, July- Sept. 64, Oct.-Dec. 20 days); ave- rage quantity of rainfall per year 24. 1 45 inch. Qan.- March 0.85, April-June 6.78, July-Sept. 14, Oct.-Dec. 2.46 inch.); greatest amount of rain in one shower 2.495 inch.; August, the wettest month, has on an average 22 rainy days with 5.54 inch, of water. Days with LIGHTENING on an average 137 a year. Pre- 191 dominating Wind: N. W.; (Jan. -March S. W., April- June W. S. W., July-Sept. N. W., Oct.-Dec. S. W.); medium velocity 1.788 miles per hour; greatest velo- city attained the N. N. E. with 47 miles per hour. Quantity of Ozone on an average 4.2 degrees. Mag- netic Needle: medium decHnation S^'iG' from north to east; medium incHnation 45'^o3'o3.5". Mortality (see p. 158): Although the City has a very poor drainage, and many miserable and uncleanly inhabitants it is not however the most unhealthy place of the valley. Nevertheless the death-rate is here too, extraordinarily high. Humboldt estimated it in 1803 ^t 3-77% J since then the rate has considerably in- creased in spite of many supposed improvements. According to Dr. A. Penafiel from 1868-1888 a year- ly average of 10,079, a daily of 27 persons or about 3.4°/q died in the City. According to Mr. N. Islas y Bustamante in the year 1890 (when the influenza prevailed) 16,851 persons died or 5.14°/^; daily from 20-60 or an average of 46 deaths. Humboldt calculated the BIRTH-RATE at 4.44*^ o. Some curious Statistic Items: The City contains i6 barracks and a garrison of 8385 soldiers — 86 catholic and 14 protestant churches, 12 hospitals, 6 market halls, 9 theatres, 3 bullfight-rings— 21 Hterary societies, 77 NEWSPAPERS, 63 prirrting-offices and 29 book-stores — 73 hotels and boarding-houses, 529 restaurants (and cafes), 822 pulque-saloons (pulquerias), 620 other sa- loons, 50 pleasure resorts (billard-rooms, bowHng and shooting-alleys, ball-houses, tivolis, etc), 63 baths and 73 public lavatories— 67 pawn-shops (which lent 192 during the year $4,170,794.)— 321 hacks etc. The general post-office with its 13 agencies distrib- uted in 1880-81 only 2.691,678 in 1887-88 as much as 10.036,202 pieces. The population consumes ac- cording to A. Penafiel (1878 -88) yearly on an aver- age only 70,929 beeves and 114,198 sheep —but drinks (according to J. Segura) about 3.914,861 gallons pulque— further about 421,195 gallons v/ine, 108,420 gallons brandy, 39,149 gallons beer and cider, 8907 gallons liquor and smokes about 97,222 lb. (?) tobacco. la 1888 the City contained 4176 stores, manufac- tories etc. Among the latter are 30 brick-yards, 80 manufactories of candles, 17 of wax -matches, 15 of to- bacco, 14 distilleries, 12 manufactories of maccaroni (fideos), 10 of soap, 7 of starch, 7 of chemicals, 5 breweries, etc. Among the stores are 954 groceries (tiendas de abarrotes, and tendejones), 431 meat shops, 155 corn-stores (maiceri'as), 139 bakeries (pana- deri'as and biscocherias), 129 agencies, 96 of fancy goods (sederfas), 95 of hardware (ferreterias and mercerias), 92 of drugs, 79 bazars, 67 banks and exchanges, 57 of hats (sombrererias), 53 of dry-goods, 44 of jewelry, 30 of fur, etc. The Government of the municipality of Mexico is vested in a council (ayuntamierito) of twenty al- dermen ( regidores ) and two syndics ( sindicos ), which form eighteen permanent commissions for the various branches of administration. The first alder- man is the MAYOR (Presidente Municipal). This re- gimen is as well economical as energetic and effect- 193 ive and with the aid of a well disciplined police force a general order is obtained, which is very exemplary. Division and new Street-Nomenclature: The City is divided into eight precincts (demarcaciones). Till the year 1889 the streets (calles and callejones) had, as in all Mexican towns, a special name from block to block. Lately the streets were named ac- cording to the points of the compass and with num- bers. The streets running towards the east and west are called «Avenida3» (avenues), those towards the north and south « Calles > (streets). Each of these avenues and streets has a number. The «AvENl- DAS> towards the east have uneven, those towards the west even numbers. The « Calles* running toward the north have uneven and those to the south even numbers. By means of these divisions it is very easy to find one's way. The dividing line from East to West is the old long street to Tacuba passing north behind the cathedral and the public park of the «Alameda> It is now simply known as «Avenida Oriente> and cAvenida Poniente». The dividing line from north to south begins one block east of the Alameda with the passes in the op- posite direction toward Orrin's Circus-Theatre. The people unfortunately care little about this new ar- rangement and cling to the many old names, which however have already disappeared from the street- corners and are therefore no longer visible to the stranger. For that reason the autlior employs in this 194 guide only the new names, with which the people are becoming more and more lamiliar. The numbers of the houses too have been changed; the new numbers are generally white upon blue enamel. By this new street-nomenclature the city is divided into four parts: Northwest are the < Avenidas Poniente> with uneven and the «CalIes Norte » with even numbers. Northeast the < Avenidas Oriented and tCalles Norte > with uneven numbers. Southeast the Avenidas Oriente with even and the Calles Sur with uneven numbers. Southwest the Avenidas Poniente and the Calles Sur with even numbers. Those who keep this in mind will always easily know their whereabouts by a glance at the street- signs of the corners. The author will hereafter abbreviate Avenida:^Av.; Calle=Ca.; Number=No.; Oriente:=Or.; Poniente::=:Po, etc. Historical Sketch (see p. 164): The founda- tion of the Ibland-City of Mexico is quite as much enveloped in mystic darkness, as the origin of the elernal Kome. From the traditions and legends, which have been transmitted to us by the so-called Codices Ramirez, Zumarraga Mendocino, Vaticano etc. and its interpreters Duran etc., is to be seen, that the fanatic Aztecs considered this place as the promised land of their god Huitzilopochtli or Mexitli. After more than seven hundred years of pilgrimage they encountered ou the islands in the lake of Texcoco 195 the holy sign, which announced to them where they should settle permanently. Huitzilopochtli had a sister, the malicious witch Malintzin (corrupted Malinche, who seems to be a spirit of the mountain). This Malintzin accompanied the Aztecs on their pilgrimage and caused them many an unpleasantness. By advice of Huitzilopochtli the Aztecs left her therefore secretly in the mountain- town of Malinalco, During the unfortunate sojourn of the Aztecs in Chapultepec (1279-99?) Copil, the son of Malintzin, decided to revenge his mother of the Aztecs, inciting the neighboring tribes and cities against this people. But Huitzilopochtli warned the Aztecs and recommended them to kill Copil, who lived on the lava-hill of Peiion de los Baiios. There they found and sacrificed him, offering- his heart to their divine saviour, who ordered them to throw it into the near reeds on a group of islands ot the lake. On the spot where his blood flowed rushed forth the famous warm soda-spring of the cBauos del Peiion >, called by the Aztecs «Acopilco> (place of the water of Copil)— . from the rock where his heart fell, arose the prickly pear-cactus, upon which the errant Aztecs (expulsed from Chapultepec) observed in 1312 (or 1325) the prophetic eagle. As the Aztecs led by their high-priest (called Tenoch or Teonoch, god's prickly pear) approached this sacred place the sym- bolic bird (representative of sun and fire) spread his wings toward the fiery ball in the east, holding a snake (or a bird ?) in its beak, the sign of fertility. Beneath the rock was a fresh well, from which two brooks parted. 196 The scene of this revelation was the main-body of a group of islands in lake Texcoco, where the Aztecs built the ill-famed temple of Huitzilopochlli and gradually the most important city of the country, which they called after the holy sign and their priest- ly guide Tenoch: the « place of god's prickly pear> (teotl, god, represented by the eagle or sometimes by half the disc of the sun; nochtli, prickly pear; ti, con- junction and tlan, place) or after their god Mexitli (or a heroic chief and associate founder ^of the City of that same name) the place of Mexitl (Mexi-co). The first Aztec buildings and the first temple on the island were made of reeds and straw, Hke some huts at the Canal de la Viga; but in 1 318 the in- habitants begun to erect massive houses of mud-bricks (adobe) and stone. About 1350 Huitzilopochtli in- structed the subjugated Aztecs in the cultivation of the swimming islands. In 1428 they became independent and in 1473 Tlaltelolco was incorporated in the City of Mexico (see p. 168). About 141 7 prince Chimalpopoca had built the highway of Tacuba and the aqueduct of Chapultepec (see p. 170) and prince Moctezuma I, in 1446, the famous dam through lake Texcoco (see p. 144). In 1483-87 during the reign of the princes Tizoc and Ahuitzotl the vast, massive and pyramidal temple of Huitzilopochtli was erected on the Main Square, which, inaugurated in the latter year with the sacri- fice of 20,000 (?) prisoners, was destroyed by the Conquerors in another river of blood. Under the reign of the tyrannical prince Moctezuma II, the Spanish 197 adventurer Cortes appears in the valley and was re- ceived by Moctezuma himself on November 8, 15 19 before the temple of the quarter Huitzillan, ( at present church of Jesus Nazareno). Cortes made his residence with his 7,000 followers in the large, castle- like palace of the late prince Axayacatl, (corner Av. Or. and Calle Sur 11). From the end of No- vember prince Moctezuma was here kept prisoner, he was wounded where June 27, 1 520 addressing his people and two days later killed. In the famous battle of the «Noche Triste» (the dismal night), on July I, 1520 Cortes with his allies was chased from the City through the highway of Tacuba. On May 30, 1 52 1 Cortes appeared again before the City with about 300,000 warriors and after a siege of seventy five days, after the capture of prince Cuauhtemoc, the last ruler of the Aztecs, he occupied the destroyed and conquered City, August 13 1 5 21. It is not quite easy to receive a clear Pic- ture of Tenochtitlan (see p. 176 etc.), from the various reports, which not only differ as to di- mensions and inhabitants, but also as to the location of some of the principal buildings. Cortes in one of his letter's compares the city with Sevilla and Cordoba in Spain and his companion Diaz mentions that it had a circumference of about ten miles and a popu- lation of over 6O)O0o inhabitants. Later authors have generously attributed to the city 120,000 houses and up to one million and a half inhabitants. Tenochtitlan stood in the northwestern portion of lake Texcoco and consisted, like Venice, of a group of islands, seperated 198 from each other by rather straight canals of various breadth. The buildings partially bordered the canals directly and were partially distant enough to leave space for a street. All the canals and streets were conneq4|d, the latter by BRIDGES of strong and well- fin ish^rl) earns; some of thetn, according to Cortes, broad enough to permit the passage often horses in one line. The main streets were quite broad and in about the same direction as to-day. The City was divided into the four Quarters (calpulli): Atzacualco (N. E.), Teopan or Zoquiapan (S. E.), Isloyotla (S. W.) and Cuepopan (N. W.), or into twenty precincts. North of the city was the large suburb of Tlaltelolco. Each precinct or quarter was grouped around a temple and its square. The vast Main-Square with the principal temple occupied the same place as the mo- dern riaza de la Constitucion with some of its sur- rounding buildings. From here four dams or high- ways crossed the city toward the four cardinal points to reach the terra firma; the northern lead (through Calle Norte 7) to Tepeyacac (Guadalupe-Hidalgo), the southern (through Calle Sur 7) to Ixtapalapan and Coyoacan, the western (through Avenida Oriente and Poniente) to Tlacdpan (Tacuba) and the ea^ern pro- longation of the same (through Avenida Oriente) toward the Plaza de San Lazaro. Over the eastern dam was conducted the aqueduct of Chapultepec (see p. 170). The HOUSES (calli) were according to the means and rank of their proprietors of various forms, di- mension and material. As a rule they were very low, of only one story, with flat roof and consisted "-opiedad de/ sut< Sc! 199 of mud-bricks (adobe) or amygdaloid, covered with cement and paint. Over the flat roofs loomed the white towers of the temples and palaces. The poorest lived in the suburb of the city in gable-roofed straw- huts (xacalli or jacales), such as are still in fashion in the villages at the Canal de la Viga. Somewhat belter situated were the owners of tenement-houses of adobe, which Uke the modern «vecindades> (see p. 184) contained a series of dark and damp dun- geons, each of them sheltering a whole family. The CASTLES (tecpan) of the chiefs were on the contrary very spacy and consisted like the palaces of the Chinese emperors of a group of buildings. Those of the princes (tecuhtli) and most important chiefs sur- rounded the main square and temple. They con- tained in the interior vast court-yards with gardens, fountains, towers, chapels, passages etc. The old Pa- lace OF MoCTEZUMA on the west side of the Main Square (National Pawn-Shop and annex) occupied a whole block (west 10 Calle Sur B 5) and had three courts, a large fountain, 20 door-ways, numerous saloons, one hundred balh-rooms etc. The walls were covered with marble, porphyry, obsidian etc, and the beams of the roof were carved. The palace of AxAYACATL, according to Humboldt, on the oppo- site side o( the square (corner Avenida Oriente and Calle Sur ii), occupied another entire block and al- though only the central building had two stories, was large enough for Cortes and his 7,000 followers. One of its elegant saloons was specially praised by Cortes, South of this building was the extensive New Palace 8 OF jNIoCTEZUMA (on the site of the National Palace) and toward the south, on the other side of the Canal, the Tlillancalqui, the palace of the commander in-chief or ctlacaeleb (to-day City Hall). The princes pos- sessed besides their castles many < villas* in the city and in the suburbs. The most peculiar buildings were however the tem- ples or cteocaili5> (god's house), built on a high py- ramidal platform (symbol of the mountain) and crowned with a tower-like chapel in which stood the altar with the idol. The largest building of this kind in Te- nochtitlan was the famous grand teocalli of the Main- Square, the Aztec Pantheon built on and around the sacred spot of revelation (see p. 195). It consisted really of various groups of buildings, enclosed by a rectangular wall of about 1000 by 1400 feet reaching from north to south about from Avenida Oriente I to 6, and from west to east from Calle Sur 5 to 9. This enclosure was decorated with figures of toads and bugs and had a gate in each direction, leading to the four above- mentioned highways. The main structure was the pyramid with the chapels of Tlaloc and Huitzilo- pochtli, arising -in the northern part and occupying (according to Chavero) a portion of the Sagrario and the old Seminario and the eastern garden of the Ca- thedral, This pyramid arose on a spacy platform, to which some steps led and was of quadrangular form. It had at the base a length of about 360 ft., consisted of masonry covered with a white, glistening plaster and •was divided into four stories, each one about 18 ft. high; On the southern front a stair -case of 120 (?) steps lead 201 above to a broad platform, spacy enough to permit five hundred warriors to fortify themselves here during the conquest. The cornice was decorated with symbo- lically sculptured basalt blocks, nine feet high called tzitzi- mite. On the northern part of the platform arose too tower-like chapels, crowned with a pointed and orna- mented wooden roof. In the richly and symbolically decorated interior of the same, stood the altar with the idol: in the western chapel that of Tlaloc, the god of rain and in the eastern that of HuitzilopochtU, the god of war. On the east and west sides of th§ plat- form and near the chapels stood two curious figures, representing stooping Indians, who held a standard in their hands. One of these is very probably the famous < Indio Triste > of the National Museum. In front of each chapel was placed the brasier ( teo- tleco) with the eternal fire and the vessel for the offerings of human hearts (the teocuauhxicalli. ) On the south side near the stair -case were sacrificial stones (techcatl) and below, in front of the steps stood another heart- receptive or cuauhxicalli. Before the pyramid was the atrium, enclosed by a high wall called < coatepantli >, on account of its serpent decoration ( see National Museum). In the midst of this court stood the « tema- lacatl > another sacrificial stone. Around this main- structure and its atrium were erected many other build- ings, as temples and chapeb for minor idols, dwellings for the priests (calmecac), places for sacrifices, baths, fasting-chapel for the princes (the tecuxcalli), prison for captured gods (the cuauhcalli), two ball-play houses (tlachco), music-school for priests (mecatlan), four armories or, < tlacochcalco > (one near each main gate ) , a bakery (xilocan) for certain festival pastry (tzoalli) etc. West from the principal pyramid, for instance, was the temple of the c order of the warriors of eagle and tiger >, the cuacuauhtlinchan with the famous sacrificial stone, now deposited in the National Museum, farther the temple of Quetzatcoatl the god of the wind, with its sacrificial stone and theatre; and the ball play house < tezcatlachco. > On the north side were dwellings for the priests. On the east side stood the cyopico* or temple of Totec with the cave where the skins of sacrifices were deposited, the ball-play-hou- se «teotlachco,> and the (?). The largest market was before the main-temple of Tlaltelolco, now Plaza de Santiago, where, according to Cortes, 70,000 (?) people assem- bled daily to buy and sell, or enjoy the life. It was surrounded by open halls and had in the interior very regular rows of booths and stands of the various 203 vendors, the house of the market-police (tecpancalli) and the theatre. The latter occupied, according to Humboldt, the northern platform before the church of Santiago. The next important market was that of Tecoyahualco (to-day San Juan). Other public build- ings of the City were the Armories (tlacochcalco), the Steam-Baths (temascalli), the Prison for Sa- crifices (petlacalli, on the site of the church of San Hip61ito) etc. Many pretty little Gardens or parks were distributed through the City and its suburbs, whose beauty was often praised by earlier writers. As already mentioned this < Pantheon > of the Aztecs was completely destroyed at the Spanish conquest, like the city in general. At the beginning of the year 1522 Cortes finally decided to rebuild the city on the old site; one of the first houses erected, was the naval arsenal (atarazana) to deposit the barks (ber- gantines ) , which played such an important part in the Conquest. In 1530 Cortes claimed for his new City 30,000 inhabitants (see p. 190). In 1524 the first Cathedral was built; in 1529 the Francis- can Pedro de Gante founded the first convent school and in 1553 the Spaniards experienced the first inun- dation (see p. 144). With the earthquakes of 1634. the sur- rounding waters disappeared suddenly (see p, 148) and the canals gradually dried up. One of the prin- cipal canals, that south of Main Square (Av. Or. 6) was still in existence at the beginning of this century. Many street -names bearing the title of < bridge > (puente) recalled for centuries the old crossings over the ditches. The Spaniards soon brought into use 204 the shorter name of the Island-City « Mexico, which has even been applied to the entire country. The excentric viceroy Juan Vicente Guemes Pacheco, count of Re- vUlagigedo (1789-94) merits the praise of having been a great benefactor to the City and its inhabitants) ordering the introduction of a certain pavement, illu- mination and drainage. Since the last empire (1862) another change is taking place, the transformation of the old Spanish town into a modern American city (see p, 185). Arrival in the City (see p. no): The near approach to the City is anounced some stations pre- vious by the appearance of express- agents and small HOTEL-RUNNERS in the cars. A number of PORTERS and hack-coachmen await the orders of travellers in front of the depot. Street-cars too are always at hand. Leaving the station a superficial examination of baggage is exercised for the collection of the District duties (portazgo). Dutiable goods are sent to the Main Custom-house (xVduana), where they can be taken after payment of charges (see p. 103 etc). The passenger stations are grouped close around the center (see Useful Adresses). USEFUL ADDRESSES and Interesting Notes*). Railroads, Depots and Offices (see p. 87, loi and 106): Central R. R. (Ferrocarril Central Mexi- co) Places and objects marked "witli * are of special interest and described in "Street Eambiings^' (see p, iss & 193). 205 cano); broad gauge. Main-line: Mexico-Paso del Nor- te, 1,134 miles, built 1880-84. Branches: Tula-Pachuca 42 ro. opened 1892; Leon-Salamanca 51 m.; Silao- Guanajuato i4ra.,Irapuato-Guadalajara 161.4 m. Aguas- lientes-Tarapico 468.8 m., opened 1890. Depot and General Office: near Plazuela de Buenavista, Av. Po. 5, N" 2001. Ticket Office in the City: A v. Or. 4, N*^ 10. National R. R. (F. C. Naclonal Mexican o), nar- row-gauge. Main-line: Mexico — Laredo, 837 miles, built , 1-880-88. Branches: Mexico — El Salto 42.2 ra.; Acdm- baro — Patzcuaro 96.2 m.; San Miguel — Matamoros 74.5 m.; Laredo — Corpus Christi 99.9 m. Depot; Colonia de los Arcmitectos, Ca. Sur 28. General Office Av. Or. 10, N^ 47. City Ticket Office Calle Sur i, N^ 421. CuERNAVACA & PACIFIC R. R. Main line: Mexico- Cuernavaca, to be built 1891-93. Hidalgo and Northeastern R. R. (F. C. Hidalgo y del Nordeste); narrow gauge. Main-line: Mexico-Pa- chuca 67.68 miles, opened 1890. Branches: Tizayuca — Teoloyucan 15.52 ra.;Tepa — Tulancingo 23 m. opened 1892; Tepa-Irolo 21. 11 m. Depot: before the gate of Peralvillo, at the end of Calle Norte 5. General Office, Av. Or. I, N*' 529. Interoceanic R. R. (F. C. Interoceanico), narrow- gauge, Main-line Mexico — Puebla — Veracruz 339.6 m., built 1878-91. Branches: Morelos, from Los Reyes to Jojutla 112 m.; Puebla— Matamoros (Izilcar) 52.7 ra.; Vireyes-San Juan de los Llanos 6:8 m. Depot and 206 General Office: San Lazdro, corner Av. Or. 2 and Calle Sur 23. Mexican R. R. (F. C. Mexicano) broad-gauge. Main-line Mexico— Orizaba— Veracruz, 263.3 ^- ^"ilt 184.2-72. Branches: Ometusco-Pachuca, 28.5 m. opened 1891. Apizaco— Puebla 29.18 m, Veracruz— J alapa 16.14. m. Veracruz — Alvarado 43.47 m. Depot and General Office: Plazuela de Buenavista, A v. Or. 5, N° 1645. City Ticket Offices: Calle Sur B I, N° 409 and Calle Sur 7 N'^ 1,013. Valley R. R. (F. C. del Valle), narrow-gauge from Mexico to Tizapam (and Tlalpan) 9.3 1 m. opened 1891. Depot: Calle Sur 8; from here street-cars run directly north to the Aduana and east to the center of the City, Calle Sur A. 7 (Ocampo), without extra- charge. General Office; Av. Or. 10, N"* 168. Headquarters of Stages (Empresa de Diligencias); Mexico — Cuernavaca 40 m.; journey takes about nine hours. Departure from the City or the village of Huipulco near Tlalpam on Mon., Wed. and Fri. at 6 o'cl. a. m. price per ticket $3. General Office: Av. Or. 6, N° 76. The Wharf of the little Chalco Steamers is behind the Garita de la Viga. These steamers carry freight (through Canal de la Viga) between Mexico and Chalco, leaving the above mentioned gate daily between 2-6 c'cl. a. m. There is at present no passenger ser- vice. Aduatia Nacional (see p. 205) Plaza de Santiago, Av. Or. 35 N° 128—150; built from 1883-85. 207 Transatlantic Steamer Agencies (see p. 89): American and German Lines; New-York and Cuba Mail S. S. Qames E. Ward and Co.) etc; Hamburg Amerikanische Packetfahrt Actiengesellschaft, Agent: Juan Ritter, Calle Sur B. i, N'' 409. French Line: Compagnie Generale Transatlantique; Agency: Av. Or. 4.N° 7. Spanish Line: Compafila Trasatlantica; Agen- cy: Calle Sur 7, N' 1,013. Express Offices (see p. 109): Wells, Fargo y Co. Calle Norte 3, N° 28 ; c Ferrocarril Nacio- nab, Av. Or. 10, N° 47; clcaza Landa>, Av. Or. 2, N= 164; , Av. Or. N"* 80; < Colon*, Calle S. 3, N° 815 etc. Street-Cars (see p. 108): Most of the lines be- long to the Company of the and to the depot of the National R. R. Buying here a ticket for a bath you get a free ride both ways. To the Suburbs ( see Excursions through the Valley ) : Northwest: Panteon Espailol, from Main square west-side, four times a day. Tacuba and Azcapotzal- 209 CO, from Main Square, west-side, every hour; to Tlalne- pantla every two hours. North: Guadalupe (passing depot of Hidalgo R. R.), from Main Square, north side, ^ery 30 min. Northeast: Peflon de los Bafios (via Penitencia- n'a), from Main Square, north side, every 80 min. South; Jamaica, Santa Anita and Ixtacalco, from Main Square, south side, every 40 min.; to Ixtapalapan every 80 min. Southwest; Tacubaya and San Angel (via La Piedad or Chapultepec) from Main Square, south side, every 20 min. Cemetery of Dolores, every . hour. Tivoli of the Castafieda every 80 min. Tlalpam (and Churubusco — San Angel), from Main Square, south side, every hour. Tacubaya, with Valley R. R., from Calle Sur A 7 or Plaza de Santiago, every 30 min.; to San Angel — Tizapan every hour. The Public Carriages (Coches de sitio; see p. 109) of the City are under the control of the City council (headquarters: City Hall, Av. Or, 6, N° 509) and distributed over the City in 34 stands (sitios). They are divided into three classes, which are distinguished by the color of a small tin-flag upon the left side of the same, when unoccupied. The blue color (color azul) indicates first class, price for each half hour 50 cts; RED COLOR (colorado) is second CI. and costs J hour 37 cts; yellow color (amarillo) is third CI. and costs ^ hour 25 cts. The fare is double from 10 o'cl. p. m. to 6 o'cl. p. m. Further, on shrove Tuesday, Floral Festival (Combate de Flores) and All-souls; the first and second class carriages cost also 2IO on Febr. 5, Tuesday before Easier, Holy Friday, May 5, and Sept 16, $1,50, $1 per hour respectively. The Livery Stables (Pensiones de Caballos) char- ge generally for a saddle-horse $3 for half a day and $5 for the whole day, as Juan Galari, Av. Or. 6, N. 36; Federico Koelig, Av. Or. 14, N. 128 etc. Porters (see p. 109) stand before the depots and on the public squares. The Hotels (see p. no) are chiefly situated quite in the center of the City. An extra bed in the same room costs in first class houses generally $l a day or $20-30 a month, in second class houses $0.50 a day or $10 a month. It is very hard to get the cheaper rooms in first class hotels. The good apartments in the better hotels generally consist of two or more rooms. Hotel busses are seldom encountered at the depots. The largest hotel is at present the *Iturbide, Av. Or. 4 N'^ 73; containing 134 rooms, elevator, parlors, baths, barber-shop, telephone, restaurant, billard-room etc; price daily $1-6, monthly $25-150; *Jardix, Av. Or. 6 N" 5, with 50 rooms; daily $3-10, monthly at same rate; San Carlos, Ca. Sur i, N° 421, with 55 rooms; daily $1-4 monthly $20-100. Gillow, Ca. Sur A. 3, N° 205, with 50 rooms; dally $1-6, monthly at same rate. — Somewhat more moderate in its prices and accomodations are: Americano, Ca. Sur B. I, N. 402, with 24 rooms; daily $1-3, monthly $2o-6o; *DEL Bazar, Ca. Sur 3, N. 422, with 68 rooms, daily $1-3, monthly $15-35; del Cafe An- glais, Av. Or. 6, N. no, with 24 rooms, daily $1-2.50 (with board $2.50-3). *Cantabro, Av. Or. 211 2j N. 353, with 45 rooms, daily $1-2.50, monthly $20-35. COMONFORT, Av. Or. 2, N. 168, with 48 rooms^ daily $1-2.50 monthly $2060. Guardiola, Av. Or. 4, N. 19, with 51 rooms, daily $1-3 monthly $25-50. *HUMB0LDT, Ca. Sur 7, N. 1,027, with 90 rooms, daily $1-2.50 monthly $20-45; baths, restau- rant, barber-shop, telephone in the house. Wash- ington, Ca. Sur B. 5, N. 41, with 31 rooms, daily $1-5 monthly $25-150. —Very moderate, but nicely located are: Central, Av. Or., N. 569, with 77 rooms, daily $0.50-1, monthly $14-25, San Agustin, Av. Or. 10, N. 377, with 50 rooms; daily $0.75-1.50 monthly $15-35. Seminario, Av. Or. 2, N. 568; daily $0.50-1, monthly $10.25. Viena, Calle Sur 7, N. 14; with 27 rooms, daily $0.50-1.50 monthly $14-40. Restaurants (seep. 111-114): Hotel Iturbide, Av. Or. 4, N. 73; regular meal $1.00. La Concor. DIA, Av. Or, 4, N. 302; (only a la carte). Maison Recamier, Av. Or. 4, N. 122; meal $1.00. Grand Restaurant de Paris, A v. Or. 6, N. 137 (only a la carte). Restaurant Aleman, Ca. Sur B. 5, N. 612, German cuisine, meal $0.85. Cafe Anglais, Av. Or. 6, N. no meal $0.75, Hotel Jardin, Av. Or. 6, N. 5, meal $0.75. Restaurant del Bazar, Ca. Sur 3, N. 422; meal 63 cts. Restaurant del Tea- tro Nacional, Ca. Sur i, meal 63 cts. Canta- BRO, Av. Or. 2, N. 355, meal 63 cts. Estrella de Oriente, Av. Or. 2, N. 132; meal 50 cts. Gran Restaurant Central, Ca. Sur A. 3, N. 207, meal 50 cts. The Metropolitan, Ca. Sur B. i, N. 410; 212 American Cuisine; meal 50 cts. Hotel del Semina- Rio, Av. Or. 2, N. 568, meal 37 cts. del Boule- vard, Av. Or. 2, N. 151; meal 25 cts. The Boarding Houses (Casa de huespedes) of the City, although somewhat cheaper than the better hotels and restaurants are not very much to be re- commended. They charge here from $1-2.50 a day, or from $25-60 per month. Some of the best located are of Eugenio Fuente, Ca. Sur I, N. 27, with 34 rooms, daily $1.75-2.50, monthly $50-60. El Comercio, Av. Or. 2, N. 325, with 32 rooms, daily $1.50-2.50, monthly $40-60. La Conti- nental, Ca. Sur B. 5, N. 202, at same rates; etc. There are besides a few American private boarding- houses. Furnished and unfurnished Rooms are very rare and not cheaper than a room in a hotel. The few to be had are generally announced ia the English and German newspapers ( which see ). Flats are advertised by a piece of paper placed in the window or in the grating before it; prices range from $30-100 and more. Public Baths (Banos, see p. 114) are found in many of the hotels and there are besides in the City several elegant bathing establishments. The largest is the Alberca Pane, Av. Po. 14, N. I4i9with swim, Russian, Turkish and Roman baths. The general price for a hot bath is 25 cts, with towels, soap, oil and perfume. The last mentioned bath even includes free ride in the street-cars of this establishment. Mi- neral-Springs (see p. 142). 213 Boot-Blacks are to be found in Hotels, Baths and in the doorways of some private houses; charge 6 cts. The Mexican Hospitals are benevolent institutions and receive the sick without any charge. Municipal hos- pital: *HospiTAL Juarez, Ca. Sur 13, corner Av, Or. 20; the best arranged is the "Hospital *Concepcion Beiste- GUi, Av. Or. 16, N. 129 and 141. The « American Be- nevolent Society* founded in 1886 the American HOS- PITAL, San Cosme, Calzada San Rafael, Ca. Sur 36, N. 84., which receives foreigners of every nation. Admission must be secured from members of the commitee. Medical Assistence: Dr. Ach: Lawson. Prices: general ward $15, private room $25 per week. The French, Belgian and Swiss colony maintain a hospital, cMaison DE Sante», in Colonia delos Arquitectos, Ca. Sur 28, N. 461. The Hospital Espanol of the Spanish co- lony is Ca. Sur, N. 2,609; founded 1842. American, English and German Doctors: Dr. Alfred Bray, Av. Or. 4, N. 73; hours 11-12 a# m,, 2i-4i ?• m. Dr. Paul Fichtner, C#. Sur, N. 203. Dr. Arch; Lawson, Ca. Sur 3, corner Av. Or. 4; hours II-I —3-5 p. m. Dr. E. Lier, Ca. Sur B. 5,N. 33; hours 3-5 p. m. Dr. W. Mallet-Prevost, Av. Or. 6, N. 81. Dr. Adolph Schmidtlein, Av. Or. 8, N. 1 36, hours 2-4 p. m. Dr. Friedrich Semeleder, Ca. Sur I, N. 1018. Dr. Thomas Wheatly, Av. Po. 8, N. 8; hours 10-12 a.m. American dentists: Dr. H. W. Howe, Calle Sur B. 5, N. 212. Dr. J. Spyer, Calle Sur B. 5) N. 415- Drug-Stores (Boticas): Dr. Franz Kaska, Ca. 314 Sur 3, N. 423. Emil Kentzler, Av, Or. 4, N. 84. A. Schmitz y Cia., Botica del Hospital Real, Ca. Sur, N. 803. Medical Night Attendance (Servicio Nocturno Medico); Av. Or. 4, N. 105. American and English Protestant Churches (see p. 55): Trinity M. E. 'Church, Ca. Sur B. I, N. 423 (Sund.: lo| o'cl.; Wed: 7.30 p. m.) Union Evangelical church, Ca. Sur, N. 430 (Sun. II o'cl, Fri. 8 o'cl. p. m.). English Church, (Christ Church), Av. Or. 4, in the former church of *Saa Francisco. (Sun. io| o'cl,). Mexican Protestant Churches ( see p. 55 ): Cathedral ol the cIglesia de Nuestro Senor Je- SUCRISTO (Christ Church), Av. Or. 4, in the for- mer *Church of San Francisco. Bishop and proprie- tor (!) of the church Rev. II. Ch. Riley. cDivino Salva- dor* Ca. Sur, N. 809. «La Santisima Trinidad* (M. E.), Ca. Sur B. i, N. 423; etc. The most interesting and fashionable Catholic Churches are: *''^a Catedral, Main Square (open 6 a. m.-i, 4-5I p. m.; high mass 9 a. m.) and the Sagrario Metropolitano, adjoining Cathedral. **La Profesa, Ca. Sur, 37, corner Av. Or. 4. *Santo Domingo, Plaza de Santo Domingo, north side, Av. Or. 5. *San Fernando, Plaza de San Fernando, north side, Av. Po. *LoRETo, Plaza de Loreto, north side, Av. Or. 3. **Santa Teresa (la Antigua), Ca. Sur 9. *San Die- go, corner Ca. Sur A. 8 and Av. Po. A. 2. *Jesus Na- ZARENo, Ar. Or. 12 near Ca. Sur 7. 'Jesus Maria, Ca. Sur 13, corner Av. Or. 4. *San Hipolito, Ay. 215 Po., corner Ca. Norte 8. *San Bernardo, Av. Or. 8, corner Ca. Sur A. 7. *Santa Brigida, Ca. Sur, near Av. Po. 6. *Nuestra Senora de los Angeles, Ca. Norte 4, near Av. Po. 33. *Santisima, Ca. Sur 13 corner Av. Or. 2. *San Cosme, Ca. Sur 28 corner Av . Po. *La Soled ad de Santa Cruz, Ca. Sur 0.23* at the end of Av. Or. 4. *San Pablo, Av. Or. 18, corner Ca. Sur 13. *Santa Clara, Av. Or,, corner Ca. Sur I. *Santa Veracruz, Av. Po., corner Ca. Norte 2. *San Miguel, Ca. Sur 7, corner Av. Or. 20. *San Geronimo, Av. Or. 18, near Ca. Sur 3. **Santa Cruz de Acatlan, Av. Or. B. 28, (here from Jan. 17, to Febr. 28, blessing of animals, see p. 96), etc. In Guadalupe-Hidalgo are **«La Cole- giata> and ; Ca. Sur 12, is an the west side the Free concert ; Sunday and holidays from lo-l a, m. The garden forms a rec- tangle of 623 by 1 541 ft. comprising about 22 acres. It is adorned by the Moorish Exposition hall of New-Orleans, seven fountains, many artistic bronze statues and vases, and an imitation of the Ixtaccihuatl and Popocatepetl, a rustic arbor,, a large bird-house, a deer park, carousal, roller-coaster (raontana rusa), 219 a childrens play department, two music-stands and numerous benches. The eastern main avenues are on concert— days bordered with chairs (l2 cts.]. On the west-side is a ; payment 6 cts. Plaza" de la Constitucion, also called Plaza de Armas or Zocalo, in front of the Cathedral, between Av. Or. 2 and 6, about 557 ft. deep and 803 ft. wide containing 9. 1 '3 acres, popular place of recrea- tion. Free concert: Tuesday and Thursday from lo-I and 7-1 1 p. m., further on Sundays and Holidays at same hours and also from 3-6 p. m. The *Paseo de LA Reforma is the fashionable promenade, especially lively on Sunday and Thursday 4-6 p. m., when a free- concert takes place. It leads from Av. Or. 4. straight southwest to the castle of Chapultepec, is 2. 17 m. long and 170 ft. wide, possesses six wide circles (glorietas), two double rows of trees (mostly eucalyp- tus) and a collection of bronze statue s and vases, some of the former are of great artistic value. The old Paseo de la Viga at the and of Ca. Sur 15 bordering the Canal of Chalco is still quite interes- ting, but has lost much of its popularity. Clubs, Societies and Orders. The most aristo- cratic Mexican society is the « Jockey Club, 5 occupying since 189 1 the phantastic *i Casa de los Azulejos >, Av. Or. 4 , N. 26 ; very fashionab le too is the Casino Nacional, Ca. Sur, A 3, N. 407. There are, further, many mutual and literary societies, free- mason lodges, associations of professional men, gov- ernment employees , soldiers and laborers. The Chamber of Commerce (Camara de Comercio) holds its sessions Av. Or. lO, N. 528. American and English Societies: A. and A. S. R. (Anahuac Lodge).— A. F. and A. M. (Toltec Lodge N. 520). American Benevolent Society. Anglo-Artier- ican Club. Aztec Club. Brotherhood of Locomotive Engineers. G. A. R. Post, N. 100, E. O. C. Order. I. O. O. F.; rooms Ca. Sur, N. 609: Hidalgo En- campment N. I, Juarez and Ridgely Lodge. — K. of P. (Va- Ile de Mexico N. l); Y. ^L C. A. (rooms with free library Ca. Sur, N. 609, meetings, Sun: 8-9 p. m). German Societies; Deutsches Haus, Ca. Sur, l-, N. 609. Deutscher Verein, Ca. Sur B. i, N. 55. Deut- scher Reit-, Turn-und Gesang- Verein; Deutsches Dop- pel Quartett. Shopping (see p. 114 and advertisements). Mo- ney Exchanges (Cambios de moneda, see p. 103): Ernst Benecke Sues., Av. Or. 8, N. 321; A. Jacot, Ca. Sur B, 5, N. 415; Singer Manufactoring Co,,Av. Or. 4, corner Ca. Sur B. i. El Cambio, Av. Or. 4, N. 85. Curiosities, Photographs etc. (see p. 80-81): D. S. Spaulding Sues., Av. Or. 8, N. 167; Richard Klein, Av. Or. 4, N. 328, etc. The Markets (Plazas or Mercados, see p. 187) of the City have lost many of their peculiarities behind the enclosure in modern iron-halls. The old and inter- esting central-market of the cVolador», south of the National Palace, was closed Feb.^15, 1890, to make place for a large bazar. The most active and note- worthy market is now that of *< Merced >, A v. Or. 8, 231 between Ca. Sur 13 and 17 on the site of the former convent of this name; 1888-89 supplied with a large iron hall. The market hall of tSan Juan> (or Itur- bide), Av. Or. 12, between Ca. Sur A. 2 and 2, covers the same ground as the Aztec market of Tecoyahual, CO, in the quarter of Moyotla. Another iron-hall shelters now the market of , A v. Or. I, between Ca. Norte A 13 and 13. Smaller establishments are the markets of « Santa Catarina* Av. Or. 13 corner Ca. Norte 5; cSan Lucas >, Ca. Sur 7, corner Av. Or. 24; Santa Ana, Av. Or. A. 29, corner Ca. Norte 5; Juan Car- bonero, Av. Or. A. 5, corner Ca. Norte 2; Guerrero, Av. Po. 21 corner Ca. Norte 12; San Cosme, A v. Po,, N. 2825. A very delightful sight offers the flower market «Mercado deFlores>in the little pavilion of iron and glass, built 1883 in the western garden of the Ca- thedral ( Ca. Sur 5, near Av. Or. ). This lovely exhibition demonstrates the mild climate of the Val- ley, which produces during the whole year fragrant roses and violets, luxurious straw-berries etCj^—the finest specimens of fruits and flowers of the tropics are also sold here. The greatest activity is in the early morning hours. The principal *Arcades (Portales, see p. 1 87) with their rows of stores and stands are on two sides of the Main Square, (those on the west are called « Portal de Mer- caderes>, Ca. Sur 5, the southern < Portal de las Flo- res >, Av. Or. 6) and those on the north side of Av. Or. 6. Others are on the west side of the , Ca. Norte A. 5; (here are the cofficesj of the penmen or evangelistas). 222 Newspapers, Time-Tables and Maps (see p. 67 and advertisements): The most important Mexican dailies are, among the liberal: , A v. Po. 6, N. 61. , Ca. Sur, N. 821. «LaPatria>, Ca. Sur A 3, N. 16. «Dia- rio delHogar»,Ca. SurB. i,N. I2,etc. Among the conser- vative are: , Av. Or. N. 561. «La Voz de Mexico>, Av. Or. i,N. 1,139, etc. Among the official are: cDiario Oficiab, Av. Or. 2, N. 726. English Publications: (weekly) Av. Or. 8, N. 137; Editor: Frederick R. Guernsey. € Financial Review*, Ca. Sur, N. 821. Editor: Lie. Luis Pombo. « Mexican Trader >, A v. Or. i, N. 36. Editor; James P. Taylor. German Paper: cGermania* (weekly), Av. Or. 8 N. 236; Editor: I. Epstein. Associated Press (Prensa Asociada de Mexico)^ Av. Or. 6, N. 24. Time-tables of all the R. R's and street-cars: Indicador General de Ferrocarriles Mexicanos, por Agustin Diaz. Mexico 1892. Price: 50 cts. Official Map ot the City: Piano Oftcial de la Ciudad de Mexico, levantado por la Comision de Sa- neamiento y Desagiie in 1888-89, publicado por C. Montauriol y Ca. Mexico 1891. Price $2. Government (see p. 62-64). President: General 323 Porfirio Diaz; audiences in the National Palace Mo., Wed., Fri., from 3-6 p. m., private residence Av. Or. 8, N. 128. Secretary of Foreign Affairs (Secretarfa de Relaciones Exteriores): Office, National Palace. Secretary: Lie. Ignacio M. Mariscal. Secre- tary OF Interior (S. de"Gobernacion): Office, National Palace. Sec'y: Lie. Manuel Romero Rubio, Secretary OF Justice and Instruction (S. de Justicia e Instruc- cion): Office, National Palace: Sec'y: Lie. Joaquin Baranda ( since 1882 ). Secretary of Commerce (S. de Fomento). Office: Av. Or. N. 51. Sec'y: Ma- nuel Fernandez Leal (since 1892).- Secretary of Communications (S. de Comunicaciones y Obras Pu blicas), created 1891: Office, Ca. Norte 5, N. 309. Sec'y: General Manuel Gonzalez Cosfo. Secretary of War and Navy ( S. de Guerra y Marina ): Office, National Palace. Sec'y: General Pedro Hinojosa. Secre- tary OF Treasury (S. de Hacienda, Credit© Publico y Comerclo): Office, National Palace. Sec'y: Gomez Farias (since 1891). House of Deputies (since 1872) in the former Teatro Iturbide Av. Or. I and corner Ca. Norte I. Senate: National Palace, central court, south-wing, upper story. Supreme Court ( Palacio de Justicia ), A v. Or. i, N. 550 Sc 570. Attorney General (Presidente) Lie. Martinez Arredondo. District Government (Gobierno del Dislrito Fe- deral) in the City Hall, Av. Or. 6, N. 513. Gover- nor; General Jose Ceballos. 22'4- City Governt^ient (Ayuntamieuto): City Hall; Ma- yor (Presidente Municipal): Manuel Contreras. Legations and Consulates: England: Embassador, Sir Spencer St. John, Av. Pon. N. 14.61; Consul gen- eral: Lionel Garden, Ca. Sur 3, N. 1204. United States of America: Embassador; Hon. Thomas Ryan, Cia. Sur A 8, N. 41. Consul General: Hon. Richard Guenther, Ca. Sur B i, N. 4-^8. Germany; Embassa- dor, Dr. Egmont von Winckler, at present, Hotel del Jardin. Consul General: Paul Kosidowsky, Av. Or. 8, N. 321; etc. Colleges, Academies, etc. (see p. 66 and 175) *Escuela Nacional Preparatoria (College) Av. Or. 3, N. 731, in the college of San Ildefonso, founded 1588 by the Jesuits; since 1 749 established in the present noteworthy building, which cost $ 400,000. During the banishment of the Jesuits from 1821-66, and since 1867, it is administered by the government. Fa- culties: Natural science, geography, history, logic, moral philosophy, pedagogic, ancient and modern languages, drawing, music, mechanics, engineering, galvanoplastic, telegraphy, ■ gymnastic, etc. Professors 58; average attendance of students 800 ; annual expenses are $86,956. The University possesses a well selected library of about 13,000 vol., (open to the public), an observatory, good cabinets of natural history, physics, chemistry, etc. Director: Lie. V. Castafieda y Najera. Escuela Nacional de Jurisprudencia (Law- School), Av. Or. 3, N. 564, since 1867 in a part of the fine convent of the Encarnacion. Professors 14, average attendance of students 200. The school pos- 225 sftsses a library of 15,000 vol. Annual expenses are $ 27,449. Director: Lie. Justino Fernandez. ♦EscuELA N. DE Medicina, Plaza de Santo Do- mingo, corner Av. Or. 5 and Ca. Norte 5, founded 1770, since 1 854 in the fine building of the Inquisi- tion. Professors 36, average attendance of students 300. Annual expenses amount to $61,585. The school has a library of 3,000 vol., a fine amphitheatre, a committee room, cabinets of natural science and che- mistry and an observatory. Director: Manuel Carmona. *=^EscUELA N. DE Ingenieros (School of Enginee- ring), Av. Or. N. 29, founded Jan., I, 1 792, since 1 81 3 in the present building, the Minen'a, the finest edifice in the City. Professors 24, average attendance of students no, annual expenses $ 66,527. The school possesses a library of 7,000 vol., geological and mineralogical museum, cabinets of physics and machinery and an observatory. Director: Antonio del Castillo. EscuELA DE CoMERCio (Commercial College), Av. Or., N. 9, in the former hospital of the Tertiary Orden. Professors 21, students about 550, annually expenses are $28,643. School possesses library of 2,000 vol. and collections of samples. Director: Lie. Alfredo Chavero. EscuELA DE Agricultura y Veterinaria (Agri- cultural College), beyond the Garita de San Cosme, on the highway to Tacuba, in the former Hacienda de San Jacinto, founded in 1856. Professors 38, students loo, annual expenees $87,366, Director. Rafael Diaz Barriga. 226 EscuELA Normal de Profesores ( Seminary for •preparing teachers) Ca. Sur 9, N. 14, founded 1889. Professors 17, annual expenses $ 27^152. Director: Lie. Miguel Serrano. EscuELA Normal de Profesoras ( Seminary for lady teachers), Ca. Norte 7, N. 318. Professors 38; annual expentes $4.6,336. Directress: Rafaela Suarez. **EscuELA N. DE Bellas Artes or de San Carlos (Academy of fine arts), Ca. Sur A 1 3, N. 208, found- ed Nov. 4 1781, since September 179 1 established in the former hospital of Amor de Dios, which in 1843 was purchased and considerably improved. Pro- fessors 20, students 250, annual expenses $40,045. Director: Roman S. de Lascuraiu. This Academy exercised a great influence upon the development of art especially in the City, where many notable works have been executed by its teach' ers and scholars. In Dec, 1783 king Charles III. took the Academy under his protection and granted a subvention of $ 12-15,000. The first professors, the painter Aguirre and the architect and painter Velaz- quez, were sent from Spain — they were followed in 1791 by the painter Rafael Jiraeno- and the famous architect Manuel Tolsa. With those new profes- sors king Charles III. sent too a fine collection of casts from the antique, worth $ 40,000. Between the years 179 1 and iSio, the Academy first flourished During the wars of independence it had great dif- ficulty to maintain its existence until Santa Ana granted in 1843 the annual proceeds of the Natio- nal Lotfery. New professors were in 1846 en- 327 gaged in Rome— the Spanish painter Pelegrin Cla- ve the sciilpter Manuel Vilar and the English en- graver D. J. Bagally— inaugurating the second period of success, which ended in i860 with the bank- rupt of the lottery. Since the restauration of the Republic ( 1867) the Academy is again in a certain state of prosperity. In 1868 its name was changed to that of (see Street Rambles, Southeast Tour). Every year in December an Exposition has to take place and premiums are distributed for the best works ; the highest being a pension of $ 600 a year during six years, to study in Rome. ♦CoNSERVATORio Nacional DE MusicA, Ca. Sur 9 N. 610, since 1877 in the noteworthy building of the former University of Mexico. It possesses a large concert-hall and theatre, a good library and col- lection of music. Professors 39, average attendance about 1,200 scholars, annual expenses $45>559- ^^' rector: Alfredo Bablot. CoLEGio MiLiTAR (the West Point of Mexico) in the *Castle of Chapultepec, founded Oct. II, 1823, since 1883 in its present place. Professors 49, cadets 250, annual expenses $1 64,2 80. Director: General Juan Villegas. Admission must be granted by the Gover- nor of the National Palace. Museums and Galleries: ** Mused Nacional, National Palace, north-wing, in the former Mint, Av. Or. 2, N. 921; open daily, excepting Saturday, from 10-12 a. m. It contains now on the « ground-floor > 338 around the courtyard two large saloons and three smaller ones with < American antiquities > and in the cupper story > eight rooms for the collection of natural history, comprising fossils, Indian mummies and other interesting specimens of anthropology, mineralogical and zoological cabinets. Besides these, there are eight saloons with an embryonic exposition of Mexican flora, industry and numismatics and some historic relics, which are not open to the public, but may be visited at regular hours on special application in the- office of the museum. The Museum arose from the modest collection in the University (now Conservato- rio Nacional), from where it was transferred in 1865 to its present place. The collection of antiquities is the finest in existence and could be still improved by a more proper management. Director: Dr. F. del Pa- so y Troncoso. (See Street Rambles, Southeast Tour). **Art Gallery of the ; Director; Fernando Ferrari Perez. Public Libraries: *Biblioteca Nacional, Av. Or, 10, corner Ca. Sur 3, founded 1867 by president Juarez, since 1884 in the elegant church of San Agustin, open daily, excepting Sundays and holidays, from 10 a. m. to 5 p. m. It possesses (1892) about 200,000 volumes, among these many rare books and manu- scripts. As the collection was mainly composed of the libraries of the University, Cathedral and the convents, the theological department is especially represented, then follows history, especially the ecclesiastical. In 1889 it was enlarged by the little library of Cin CO 4e Mayo (with 7,000 vol.). New catalogues-— 230 urgently needed —are in preparation. Director: Jose Marfa Vigil. Biblioteca de la , Av. Or, 3, N. 731, open from 9-12 a. m. and from 3-8 p. m., contains 13,000 volumes. Librarian; Julio Covarrubias. The eight libraries of the other Col- leges as well as that of the Geographical Society are only open to members. In Tacubaya is the public library t Romero Rubio? of the scientific society < Antonio Alzate>, 3* Ca. Juarez N. 19, open from 4-9 p. m., founded 1890, contains about 5,000 vol. Observatories: Observatorio Meteorologico Cen- tral, National Palace, main-court, south-wing, upper story. Director: Miguel Perez. Others are in the School of Engineering, in Chapultepec, Tacubaya etc. Zoological and Botanical Gardens: The for- mer is in the park of Chapultepec, south from en- trance; the tjARDiN BoTANico> is in the court of the . The courtyard too of the National Museum has a little collection of plants. In 1890 the City Council established the cjardin de Propagacion> in Chapultepec, (nursery of plants) on the south side of the park, near the street-car-line to Tacubaya. Scientific Societies (Sociedades cientfficas): So- ciedad Mexicana de Geografia y Estadistica, Ca. Nor- te 10, N. 51. President: Minister Manuel Fernandez Leal. Vice-president; Lie. Felix Romero. First Sec'y: Lie. Eustaquio Buelna. Founded in 1833; posses- ses a library of 10,000 vol. and museum of antiqui ^_; — IPlano General I — capital 01 ?> 300,000. Since 1 836 it is in the 9 231 ties. Session : Thiirs, 6 o'cl. Government subven- tion $2,105 P^^ year; active members 40. Anto- nio Alzate, Tacuba, 3* Juarez 19. President: Civil engineer Guillermo Puga, Sec'y: Rafael Aguilar y Santillan. Founded 1884; active members 25; pos- sesses library of 2,800 vol. in Tacubaya. Session: First Sunday of each month. Sociedad Mexicana de HiSTORiA Natural, Museo Nacional, Av. Or. 2, N, 921. Presidente; Dr. Fernando Altamirano. Sec'y. Prof. Alfonso L. Herrera. Founded 1868. Acade- ^rIA Nacional de Medicina, Escuela N. de Medicina, Presidente: Dr. Manuel Carmona y Valle. Sec'y: Dr. Luis E. Ruiz. Asociacion de Ingenieros y Arqui- TECTOS, in Escuela Nacional de Ingenieros, Presidente: Civil engineer Manuel Fernandez Leal. Sec'y: Civil engineer Juan N. Auza. Mint (Casa de Moneda, see p. 77), Av. Or. il, N. 727, established 1537, since 1850 in the present building. The City -Mint coined from 1857-1890 §2.393,187,892 in gold, silver, copper and nickel. Banks (Bancos, see p. 71 and 175): *Banco Na- cional de Mexico, Av. Or. 8, N. 308 and 316. Ban- co de Londres, Mexico y Sud-America, Av. Or. 8, N. 148. Banco Internacional e Hipotecario de Mexi- co, Ca. Sur 3, N. 1,067. (Hours in all these banks from 10 a. m. to 4 p. m,). National Pawn Shop (Nacional Monte de Pie- dad): Ca. Sur 5, N. 35, founded Feb. 25, 1775 by the benevolent Pedro Romero de Terreros, count of Regla, owner of the famous mines of Real del Monte, with a capital of $300,000. Since 1836 it is in the present building. In 1888 were lent $1,153,081. Worth a visit is the sales-room (almonte), where the traveller may often find a chance for good bargains in bric-a-brac or other souvenirs of Mexico. Post-Offices (see p. 89): The General Post Office, Administracion General de Correos and that of the D. F. are in the National Palace, Av. Or. 2, N. 903. Postmaster- General : Francisco P. Gochicoa. Post- master of the D. F.: Lino Nava. There are besides six branch-oflkes (Sucursales) distributed through the City and seven in the suburbs. Telegraph Offices (see p. 89): Telegrafos del Gobierno, Av. Or. 2, N. 156. Telegrafo de la Com- pania Telegralica de Jalisco, Ca. Sur 5, N. S28. Te- legrafo del Comercio, Av. Or. 6, N. 314. Telegra- fos de los Ferrocarriles, (see Railroads, depots and offices, p. 204). Cable Submarino, Compania Telegra- fica de Centro y Sur America, Av. Or. 4, N. 134. Telephone Offices (Teletonos): Compania Tele- f6nica Mexicana, Ca. Sur N. 9. Prisons: Belem, the prison of the City and the D. F., Ca. Sur 6, N. 2,017, is since 1S62 in the former college of San Miguel de Belem, a large but very inappropriate building for this purpose, filthy, un- healthy and generally over-crowded, containing about 2,800 prisoners. A large and commodious Peniten- tiary is in construction about a quarter of a mile east from the City near the Gran Canal. The *Prision MiLiTAR de Santiago Tlaltelolco, Ca. Norte A. 2, N* 3,508, is established in the former Colegio de Indios. STREET RAMBLES O Southeast Toxu (The ''Miiiu Square, its history, impovtaut buildings and mo- nument?. ^"Cathedral and Sanctuary, Monumeuto Hipso- grafico, National Pawii-Shop, Portales, City Hall and *Na- ■tional Palace. El Volador and Academy of Music. Santa Teresa la Autigua. ^*National Museum and " 'AcadfeTny of Pine Arts. Santa Ines, Jesus Maria and *La Santisiina. La Soledad de Santa Cruz, Market of La Merced, San Pablo and ^"Santa Cruz Acatlau. S,\n Miguel, San Geronimo and Regina CUE Main Squai-e or **Plaza de la ConstitttCioil (see p. 177, 198 and 2ig) has not been for a score of years the central point of the City, but is still its most characteristic and interesting spot I It has (*) In four "Tours" see page 188 and 103. The most Im- portant sights are marked with one or twa stars respectively. 23+ been for centuries the soul of the City. Surrounded by the principal public buildings, it became the scene of some of the most important events in Mexican history. Here the errant Aztecs encountered in 13 12 the symbolical sign of promise, built their first temple and huts and from 1483-87 the colossal Pantheon (Teocalli), where on great festivals thousands of In- dians danced to the melancolic sound of the drum and the rattle and thousands of prisoners were cruelly sacrificed in religious fanaticism. Here the Aztecs de- fended themselves heroically in 1 5 20 and 1 521 against the Spanish conquerors, who in 1522 erected here the first houses of the modern City. The memory of the Conquest was celebrated here for centuries on the 13111 of August by the < parade of the banner* (proces- sion del pendon), in which the «alferez mayor* car- ried the standard of Cortes, followed by the Viceroy, the council and the nobility on horseback. Sixty-two Viceroys made their ceremonial entrance to the pa- lace and governed from here one of the largest em- pires of the world. Over this square passed on the morning of April II, 1649 the procession of the In- quisition with the green cross and the unfortunate prisoners to the < Plaza del Volador> and in the after- noon the thirteen condemned, proceeded on mules to the Christian sacrificial stone of SartiDiego, upon which the funeral pyre awaited them. On September 27, 1821 Agustin Iturbide appeared here at the head of the victorious army and was cheered as « liberator*. He was proclaimed on the night of May 18, 1822 < emperor » in this Square and with his wife, on July 21, of the same year, solemnly entered the Cathedral 235 to receive his thorny crown. Many another < libe- rator! and usurper has followed hira in the last de- cades! In 184.7 floated the starry banner from the National Palace and in 1863 the tricolor of thee Gran- de Nation*. • On June 12, 1864. the second emperor, the Archduke Maximilian, was here heartily welcomed and on February 13, 1867 received here from ma- ny of his adherents, the last farewell. On June 21, of the same year General Porfirio Diaz was greeted the first time as heroe and again on November 23, 1875, after the successful revolution of Tuxtepec. After the Conquest the Main Square was kept in a very dirty and ugly state. It was used as market and general business place and occupied by several hundred stands and booths (cajoncitos). On the east- ern side (Av. Or. 6) stagnated the muddy water of the large canal (acequia),' in front of the Cathedral was a neglected cemetery and before the Palace stood instead of the Aztec (employer). In the < atrium > of the Cathedral a small business thrives in prayer-books, legends, pictures of saints and relics. The garden of the center is popularly known as El Zocalo, on account of the circular platform in the middle, which originally was destined to be the base for a monument to Mexican independence, but is now occupied by an iron music-stand in Moorish style. Four fountains, many little bronze statues and vases ornament the park and numerous benches invite to a sun-bath, for the trees offer httle shade. On the western edge is another Moorish pavilion, the station of the Ferrocarriles del Distrito (see p. 207). The principal arteries of the City open upon this square, the most important is the Av. Or. 4., which leads westward to the Alameda and the Paseo de la Re- forma. 238 Let us now direct our steps toward the north, to the most attractive and imposing building of the Square and there begin our street rambles and sightseeing 1 There the **Cathedral (Catedrale, see p. 214) ari- ses above the smiling green, with its classic fagade, its two prodigious towers and the elegant dome: the Saint Peter of Mexico, one of the largest and finest basili- cas of the New World. It stands with its various annexes upon a wide platform, about two feet high and about four hundred and sixty feet broad, which is partially enclosed by an iron railing, bounded on each side of the front by a pillar with a cross, orna- mented with snakes and skulls. Six low steps lead to the broad atrium. It forms a rectangle about 196 ft. wide and 390 ft. long; its walls consist on the south and north side of gray sand-stone, on the two other sides of basalt. The Spaniards completed in 1525, south-west from the pyramid of Tlaloc-Huitzilopochtli, the first modest church, partially built from the debris of the Aztec temple and dedicated to Nuestra Seiiora de la Asun- cion. After the establishment of the Bishopric of New Spain by Pope Clemens VII. (proclaimed in 1527), this church became the Cathedral ( Sept. 9, 1530) and after the establishment of the Archbishopric by Pope Paul III. (created Jan. 31, 1545) the Metropolitan church (May 30, of same year). King Philip II. un- dertook the erection of a large and dignified Cathe- dral after the plans of Alonso Perez Castaneda. The corner stone of this church was laid in 1573, it was mostly completed on February 2, 1656 under the direction 239 of the monk Marcos Ramiro, solemnly inaugurated on December 22, 1667 and costs $ 1.752,000. The towers of 203 ft. in height were finished in 1791 and cost $190,000. Several rich Spaniards donated costly ves- sels of gold, silver and precious stones, worth $1,850,000. The adventurous mining king Jose Borda presented for instance, a chalice covered with thousands of diamonds, which cost him $ 300,000; but after his bankruptcy he asked for a gratification and received a payment of one - third of its value. These jewels v/ere all sequestrated by the government of Juarez. The fagade makes with its combination of gray sand-stone and white marble a very pleasant effect. The central portion, gradually arising, is divided by prodigious buttresses into three parts of various orders of architecture. The lower part is genuine Doric, the upper of a somewhat extravagant Ionic, the third part in Corinthian style. Bas-reliefs and statues are between the columns, which, like the bases, the capitals and the friezes, are of white marble. The bas-reliefs above the three portals represent: at the left « Peter, receiv- ing the key,> in the middle < Assumption of the Virgin >, at the right « Peter at the helm.? In the third part of the main portal repose the arms of the Republic and above them the clock, embellished with the three Christian virtues. The prodigous towers consist of two stories vv-ith open arches, the lower part Doric and the upper part Ionic and are crowned by bell-shaped domes with hemisphere and cross. In the west-tower hangs the large bell < Santa Maria de Guadalupei 16^ feet high, founded 1792, worth 10,400 240 pesos. The cornices of the towers and some parts of the central building are finished with a balustrade. Some of its pillars are adorned with vases or colossal statues. On the upper balustrade of each tower stand eight figures, about 8J: ft. high, representing the doc- tors of the church and the patriarchs of the monk- orders. Above the center the stately dome with its lantern, rears its head. On the east side and west of the Cathedral are two other portals, embellished like that of the facade and at the back are two smaller en- trances. Strangers should not neglect to make an ASCENT OF THE TOWERS On a clear morning, in order to get a general idea of the City (see p. l'/6-- l8l). The entrance is at the eastern (right) tower. Go up the little stair -case before it and pull on the door -string. The door w^iil then be opened and you ascend the stairs to the roof of the church, where you are received by the sexton, to whom you pay a fee ol 12 cts. pro person. The INTERIOR forsTis a latin cross, according to Garcia Cubas 354..25 ft. long and 177.12 ft, wide and contains five naves, which gradually decrease in height from the middle toward the outer walls. In the Do- ric architecture of the whole are traces of the Go- thic. The contrast of the earnest gray with the cheerful white is extremely agreeable. In the center two rows of eight pillars, each consisting of four fluted Doric half-columns, support the Roman vaulted roof, above which rises in the rear that beautiful, octagonal dome by Manuel Tolsa. On each side is a row of arches between eight Doric fluted half-columns. 24.1 Behind these arches of the exterior naves are fourteen seperate chapels. The roof of the interior side-naves consists of fxat domes. The splendor and grandeur of the interior is unfortunately depreciated by the di- vision of the outer naves into small chapels, by the over richly decorated choir in the middle nave and by the conspicuons main-altar. We begin the Review of the most remarkable objects of the interior, entering by the left (western), portal of the fagade. Looking down from here we get a splendid idea of the whole size of the large building. Near the first pair of pillars are two large holy-water basins of onyx. Back of the second pair of pillars the choir is partitioned by a richly decor- ated wall in Renaissance-style, before which rises the ♦Altar del Pe?s.don (A. of Perdon). The latter is ornamented above by two valuable paintings, which however can be little appreciated, on account of the poor light. The lower, larger one, represents «La Candelar.ia> (Mary oflering the Christ-child for adoration) by Baltazar Echave the elder. The upper, smaller painting of cSan Sebastian > is said to have been executed by his wife, known as «La Sumaya». On the wesl-wali of the choir-partition hang two paintings (of 1 704.) by Juan Correa: «Las Animas* (Souls in Purgatory). The entrance of the choir is found before the fourth pair of columns and is se- parated by a high grating of tombac (tumbago), which like the balustrade of the passage-way to the choir and that of the tabernacle were founded 1730 in Macao (China) from a combination Oi gold, silver 242 and copper, weighing 26 tons. Above its entrance- door are three crosses with Christ and the two ma- lefactors and at the sides richly gilded ornaments. The fine *< stalls > of the choir are of polysander-wood and artistically carved with gilded reliefs of the saints. Above them, on each side stands a high organ, like- wise carved and gilded, crowned by an orchestra of angels (erected 1736). The background of the choir is adorned by a large, oil-painting representing (pulpits) of onyx. 243 Among the west side chapels is noteworthy first that opposite the tabernacle, consacrated to the Mex- ican martyr San Felipe de Jesus, whose baptismal font is at the entrance of the chapel. In the sarco- phagus at the right rests the first Mexican emperor (1822-23), the «liberator> Agustin de Iturbide and in an urn the heart of General Bustamante; beneath rest some other notable persons, Archbishops etc. Neigh- boring this chapel is the entrance to the chapter- house. In the first room, called **La Claveria hang some of the most valuable oil-paintings in Mexico. The most remarkable is that on the northern (right) wall, **. On either side of this picture is grouped a collection of 38 oil-paintings, the Archbishops of Mexico. On the east-wall above the latter is the t Lord's Supper* and the c Triumph of Faith* by Juan Alcibar; on the southern wall cThe Descent of the Holy Spirit* by Pietro de Cortona. The western door leads to the hall of the cSecretarfa del Cabildo>, decorated with some unimportant oil-paint- ings. In the rear of the same is the little insignifi- cant Capilla de las Animas (rebuilt 174S), entrance from Av. Or. At the northern extremity of the Cathedral, in the center, is the conspicuous < Altar de los Reyes > (A. of the Kings) modelled after that in the Cathedral of Sevilla by the same artist, richly ornamented in Re- naissance style, with gilded pillars, conspicuous statues and good oil-paintings. Especially remarkable are the 244 two of the center: «The Adoration of the Kings* and the « Assumption of the Virgin > by J. R.Jua- rez; the smaller ones are said to be by . In the crypt beneath rest the remains of some of the Viceroys of Mexico, those of the four martyrs of mexican independence (Hidalgo, Aldama, Allende and Jimenez), the president Barragan etc. In the chapel of the northeastern entrance hangs opposite the altar (left) a good oil painting of the Italian school: and « Martyr- dom of San Lorenzo. Under the last arch but one is the entrance to the neighboring parish, the *Sagrario Metropolitano (Sanctuary), partially on the site of the pyramid of Tlaloc-Huizilopcchtli, built according to the plans of Lorenzo Rodriguez from January 7, 1749 to Sep- tember 9, 1867 and was dedicated on January 9> 1768. It forms a quadrangle and consists of red and gray sand-stone. The southern and the eastern outer walls are richly ornamented in late Renaissance style, here called «churrigueresco» after the artist Churri- guera, its main representative in Spain, It meuns about, « ornamented ornamentation > and consists in richly embellished pillars and niches, decorated with arabesques, busts and figures. The front has three parts, each one with a door. The high portal of the center is especially decorated in two parts or stories and crowned by the sacrament. The INTERIOR forms a greek cross and makes with its white high columns, the stately dome and the abundance of light, a cheerful and elevating impres- sion. In the middle arise four independent pillars, consisting like those of the Cathedral of fluted Doric half columns, which support the octagonal dome. In the corners of the cross are four chapels. At the entrance, above a low vault is the choir. Under the same on the eastern side is the *Baptisterio with four ceiling frescoes by Jose Gines de AguiRRE, re- presenting the Baptism of Christ (eastern wall), of Cons- tantine, of the Mexican martyr Felipe de Jesus and of Saint 246 Augustine — some parts are injured by cracks. The oil-painting on the eastern wall represents cjohn the Baptist in the Desert > in the style of Murillo. On the center is a fine golden font. Opposite the en- trance is the main-altar between two groups of Ionic columns. It consists of a round, wooden, gilded tem- ple (tabernacle), upon which rests a statue of faith. Above the columns are Hope and Charity. Below them oil-paintings, imitations of Dominichino. The adjoining side-altars are richly decorated and gilded in Renaissance-style and have good paintings from Mexican artists. Leaving the Sanctuary through its eastern portal, we enter the little Jardin del Seminario, in the southern part of which rises the pretty Monumen- to Hipsografico, designed by the civil engineer Francisco Jimenez, crowned with a very unmean- ing bronze statue of the City of Mexico by the Mexican sculptor Norena, erected May 1878, in ho- nor of « Enrico Martinez j the author of the famous Tajo de*Nochistongo ( see p. 145 ). It stands on a platform of gray marble of Yautepec, enclosed by an iron railing with bronze lamps at its angles. It con- sists of a square pedestal of grayish marble from Te- peaca with the dedication «To the memory of the illustrious geologist Henry Martinez >, and several interesting statements, as altitude above the sea-level and geographical position of the City; record of the level of the water in the lakes of the Valley, models of the Mexican etc. (see p. 104 & 189). The statue 247 • represents a young woman of the Latin race in antique costume, with the classical symbolic crown in form of a parapet, depositing a wreath of laurel on a vo- tive pillar. It could stand just as well for the City of Rome as for Mexico— although the latter is so full of characteristics. —At the southern extremity of this garden is the iron bazar of old books. The long building in the back-ground is the former Seminario CONCILIAR (Catholic Seminary, founded 1691), now partially occupied by hotels and baths. Walking through the front-garden of the Cathe- dral, you will observe on its western side a pile of hewn and carved stones, some insignificant remains of the Aztec Pantheon (see p. 200). At the northern end of the eastern side-garden, the Jardin del Em- PEDRADILLO Stands, near the chapter-house the little pavilion of the Mercado de Flores, built 1883 near the site of the Ilhuicatitlan or temple of QuetzalcoatI (see p. 202). The block of houses on the western side of the Plaza, opposite the Cathedral, formerly known as Calle del Empedradillo, is now the beginning of Ca. Sur 5. It occupies the grounds of the extensive palace of Moctezuma, in which this unfortunate prince and highpriest of the Aztecs, was slyly taken prisoner by Cortes on November 14, 1519. After the Conquest Cortes received this palace as a part of his share and erected here a dwelling, which up to 1562 was used as government palace and temporarily again from 1692-99. In 1836 the greatest part of this block (N. 35) was acquired by the Conde of Rcgla to 248 build there a pawn shop, now Nacional Monte dc Piedad (see p. 231). The next street formerly known as of 14 lofty arches, about 250 ft. long, built of gray ornamented sand • stone. Above the center are the arms of Mexico. From the western wall project the old fashioned long-water -spouts into the street. This 249 building occupies the site of the Aztec tTlillancal- qui>, the residence of the «Tlacaeleb or commander in chief. In 1532 the first modest City Hall was here com- pleted, combined with mint, corn-exchange and meat- stores. It was replaced in 1564 by a larger house, which was almost totally burned down in the riot of June 8, 1692, The present bu'lding was begun in October 3, 1720 and finished February 4, 1724, cost- ing $67,861. In contains the offices of the City and District Government (see p. 192 & 223). The main- entrance is in the center of the arcades (N. 513), through a spacy hall. (West of the same, portal N^ 509 are the headquarters of public coaches, Adminis- tracion principal de coches). A broad marble stair- case leads from the hall westwards to an elegant ves- tibule, decorated with frescoes, marble columns and bronze-statues (candelabres), to the offices of the City council. The last door at the left (south) opens into a little hall. At the left of this is the office of the Secretary and Mayor, straight ahead the office of the secretaries or •Secretaria del Ayuntamiento, de- corated with 62 oil-paintings, bust portraits of the go- vernors and viceroys, from Cortes to O'Donoju ( see p. 171). In the opposite to it are 12 other paintings, of which six are copies of those alrea- dy mentioned the others represent the Regency of 1863, Maximilian and Charlotte etc. The right-hand door in the little entrance hall leads to the council rooms, which are also decorated with oil-paintings of Mexican herots. In the first room cSala de Espera> is a copy of the portrait of Iturbide (see National 250 Palace). In the adjoining *Sala de Comisiones are 40 bust portraits of the revolutionists and presidents from Morelos to President Diaz (see p. 173). In the ele- gant assembly hall, < Salon de Cabildos> are three life-sized pictures of Morelos, Hidalgo and Guerrero by Tiburcio Sanchez and in preparation a ceiling- fresco by F. Parra. — The entrance to the offices of the District Government is by the stair-case in the background of the entrance hall. The adjoining row of small and old fashioned houses form below with their eighteen low arches the Portal de las Flores, —which does not continue to the end of the block. Behind the same opens into the Square, the old and lively Ca. Sur 7 comprising the former streets of Fla- mencos, Portacoeli, Hospital and Puente de Jesus etc., which occupy the site of the Aztec causeway of Ixta- palapan. At the entrance of this street to the Square stood the frightful skull-deposit or Over this way passed the Aztec procession every fifty-two years to celebrate on the hill of the latter place the beginning of the new period (the last cxiuhmolpil- li> was celebrated 1507). By the same road Cor- tes entered the City on Tuesday, November 8, 1519- Before him danced groups of Indians and walked Moctezuma supported like Cortes by one of his broth- ers, then the four hundred Spaniards, partially moun- ted, followed with unfolded standards to the sound of the drum. They were completely armed and ready for any fray. Behind them marched the seven thousand allied Tlaxcaltecas, carrying the cannon and the forage. The whole City was in commotion, all the roofs were oc- 251 cupied with spectators and all the canals with boats. Before the temple the priests stood in their holiday robes with music and incense, together with the mem- bers of the Aztec warrior order of eagle and tiger, who appeared in battle-array. — The new building on its northeast-corner near the Main Square and the National Palace, is intended for a large Bazar, which occupies the site of the famous old market of the . This block belonged to the extensive grounds of the New Palace of Moctezuma, which after the Conquest became the property of Cortes. His heirs had however great difficulty in claiming their rights. The place was used from the beginning of the I7tli century as play-grounds and vegetable market and received the name of after the favorite gym- nastic game of the Aztecs. Here the first bull-fights took place during the celebration of the instalation of a new viceroy or the coronation of a Spanish king and io April II, 1649 the celebrated < AUTO de fe>, which condemned eleven criminals to be burned after strangulation and one to be burned alive. In 1837 the City bought the place from the Duke of Monte- leone, heir of Cortes, for $ 70,000. On February 15, 1890 the market was closed and at the end of the following year began the erection of the present building. The old edifice with the two tiny towers back of the Bazar, in Ca. Sur 9, N. 6X0, is the Conservatorio N. de Musica, (see p. 227), which also belonged to the ground of the new palace of Moctezuma. There the first University was erected from 1584--90 (founded 252 by Charles V, September 155 1 with the same rights as that of Salamanca). This edifice was entirely re- novated in the present form about 1787. The court- yard now converted into a garden is surrounded by Etately cloisters of 48 arches in each story, resting upon Ionic columns. The door-ways and windows are richly ornamented and in the background leads a broad stair case to the upper story. The walls of the hall are decorated with three large oil paintings, re- ferring to the < Immaculate Conception. > The colossal central picture commemorates in an allegory the inser- tion of the invocation < Mater imraaculata> in the Li- tany of the Virgin, suggested by Charles V. and sanctioned by Pope Clemens XIV. This is one of the finest works of Francisco Vallejo and represents the Pope and the King surrounded by the Archbishop Lorenzana and the Viceroy Bucareli of Mexico and the students of the University in devotion. In the sky above them is the Virgin with the four doctors of the Church, surrounded by angels, Saint Paul and Catherine (the patron saints of the University) and Saint Thomas, John of Nepomuk and Saint Luis Gon- zaga (the patrons of study). The large picture of the southern wall seems to be by the same artist and was donated in 1 75 1 by the students. The smallest paint- ing of the northern wall is by Miguel Cabrera (1758), North from the courtyard is the theatre; decorated in Renaissance style and above the same the concert- hall (salon de orquesta). Returning to the Main Square, we keep on its eastern side in order to visit the *National Palace, 253 the largest building in Mexico, occupying an entire block (a square of 590 ft.) and with its front the whole east side of the Square. The fagade with its two square corner towers, the embattled roof and the iron grating before the windows reminds one more of a prison or barracks, than of a palace. The building has gradually grown to that planless architectural monster, which it represents now-a-days. It is mostly three stories high (the west and east side are irre- gular) and contains twelve courtyards of various sizes, around which the buildings are grouped. A broad but crooked passage-way divides them into two parts, a western and an eastern half. The eastern portion was the site of the «New House of Moctezuma>, in front of which Cortes built after the Conquest a fortress - like residence. In 1592 the government bought it of his heirs for $35,000 as palace for the viceroys, but in the riot of 1692 it was totally des- troyed. The present building was begun in the same year and occupied May 25, 1699. It contains besides the official residence and the state rooms of the President the four Departments of the Interior, War, Finances and Foreign Affaires, further the Senate Chamber, Headquar- ters of the Army, Archives, Treasury of the Congress, Observatory, General Post Office, National Museum, Headquarters of the Fire Brigade, barracks for Infan- try (Zapadores) and Artillery etc. From 1829-1872 the House of Deputies also celebrated here its ses- sions until the chamber was destroyed by fire. (See p. 62 and 222). Three stately entrances lead from the square into 254 the interior; the southern is called < Patio de Ho- nor > and the northern ; above the central doorway is the clock, which was exiled from a Spanish village for having once caused great alarm there, by striking of its own accord. Entering through the southern portal (N. 442), we are under the lofty cloisters of the courtyard, called < Patio Presiden- CIAL>, because it is surrounded above by the apart- ments of the President. It consists of 24 arches on each floor. Here are besides the Department of the Interior and of Foreign Affairs, the Archives and Headquarters of the Army. At the north this court is joined by the stately « Patio Central* the largest and finest of all, comprising a square of 131 ft. on each side, surrounded by 40 arches in each of the two stories. Around this court are grouped in the upper story the offices of the Civil Engineers of the Government, the Department of War (north wing) and the Senate Chamber (south wing) above the latter is the Observatory (see p. 230). Below in the south wing are barns for carriages etc, in one of them is a carriage of Maximilian. At the left from the central portal (N^ 416) is the broad main stair-case. On the other side of the same is the entrance to the «Gobierno del Palacio>, (the offices of the Governor of the Palace) and next door, that to the Treasury of Congress. To see the presidential apartments a special permit is necessary, which will be granted to strangers when the President is absent on personal application (presenting the visiting card) in the office of the Governor of the Palace. The 255 best time for the visit is Sunclay forenoon and Thurs- day afternoon. You may ask here at the same time admission to the Castle of Chapultepec, if you want to see there the apartments of the President and of the Military School. If the permission is granted to see the National Palace you are accompanied by an officer or employee by the main stairs to the upper story. At the southern end of the hall you enter with him through the small Sala de las Ordenanzas the inner row of rooms. The next room is called Sala de la Constitucion after a large oil-painting, « Allegory of the Constitu- cion of l857>, by the Mexican artist Petronilo MON- ROY (on the west wall). The door to the left leads to the Senate Chamber, that to the right to the large front saloon, called Salon he Embajadores, where the President receives the Embassadors formally, when they present their credentials. In front of the south side wall is a platform with the chairs in half-circle for the President and his secretaries. The chair of the former- is distinguished by a rich gold- embroidery of eagles and has a canopy like princely thrones. Op- posite in front of the north side wall hangs a richly embroidered canopy above another presidential chair, near it is a marble bust of the heroe of the battle of Puebla, General Ignacio Zaragoza by Primitivo Mi- randa and a large oil painting of that battle (May 5, 1862) by the same artist. On the east wall hang nine large oil paintings: George Washington, (the lather of independence of the U. S.), the Mexican 256 President Mariano Arista (by Pinret, 1851) the heroe of independence Mariano Matamoros (by Obregon 1815), Mariano Mina (by Perez, 1866), the actual President Porftrio Diaz (by J. A.Vargas, 1888), Pre- sident Benito Juarez, Emperor Agustin de It*(bide (by Monro Y, 1865), General Vicente Guerrero (by Sagre- DO, 1865) and the political martyr Jose Morelos. From the ceiling hang six elegant glass chandeliers.-- Re- turning to the Saloon of the Constitution, passing through the door with the marble lions, we enter the waiting-room, called Sala de Hidalgo after a large oil-painting of this martyr of independence (by J. Ramirez, 1865). From here we reach toward the left, the south wing with the very modestly furnished apartments of the President. The first little room is called cSala de los Ayudantes>. Passing a long hall you enter then into the private reception room of the President: cSala blanca>. Then follow a toilet- room etc; further the Council-Chamber, — Sala de Acuerdos— and the reception-room — Sala de Audien- CIAS— sboth hung with red silk tapestry. The stair- hall Sala del caracol contains winding stairs to a side entrance. In the small tower-room are preserved the official maps and in the middle is a table upon which a military -map is designed j representing the movements of the army. Further follow in the east-wing the Salon rojo or red parlor, the office of the secretary of the Staff (Oficial Mayor del Jefe del Estado Mayor), with a painting of Presi- dent Gonzalez (by Perez, 1882), the Sala de Es- TANTES or library, bath-room, office of the private 257 secretary of the President, telegraph-office, private reception room etc. North from the principal court is another, long nar- row and, laid out by President Arista in 1852 and therefore named Patio de Arista. Around the same are the Department of Justice (north), the head- quarters of artillery (west), and the Department of War, (sodth). The different offices of the National Treasury surround the iourth court, the Patio de Hacienda, which is divided by a hall into two parts. Under the middle arch of the same is a sitting bronze statue of President Benito Juarez, by Miguel NORENA, erected 1890 on a pedestal of marble. Leaving the palace through the northern doorway (N° 212), we proceed to its northern extremity and turn at the corner to the right, into the former Calle del Arzobispado now a part of the irregular Avenida Oriente 2. On the northern side of the same, N^ 726, is the £x-Arzobispado a long unsightly two- story building with embattled roof, now used as printing office of the Government and Archive of the Treasury. According to Duran it occupies about the site of the temple of Tezcatlipoca, god of the moon and water, which formed a part of the Aztec Pan. theon. In 1530 the first Archiepiscopal palace was here erected, which was rebuilt in 17 30. The present building was completed in 1800 and secularized 186 1. At its eastern corner is the short Calle Sur 9, formerly known as Ca. Cerrada de Santa Teresa. The corner- house, N. 46, marks the place were about 1535 the First Printing-Office in Mexico and America was 258 established by Juan Pablos, probably as branch-house of the famous Sevillan printing office of Juan Crom- berger. The first book known to be printed in the New World was blue and golden color makes a very cheerful impres- sion. The two side altars are decorated with good statues and oil-paintings. The main altar is a taber- nacle of marble with Corinthian columns and contains the MIRACULOUS Crucifix, brought from Spain 1545 and venerated for over one hundred years in the little mining-town Cardonal de Ixmiquilpan (State of Hidalgo), till it became injured and is said to have been burnt; but not being consumed by the flames it was buried — when after years dug up by chance, it grew new again. After a hard fight with the fanatic peo- ple of that mining town the crucifix was transferred to Mexico and incited here a pious citizen to spend a part of his fortune for the elegant chapel in which it is now venerated. The vault over the tabernacle is decorated with a fresco. Opposite this church, in the house N. 23 died mys- teriously one of the first martyrs of Mexican indepen- dence, the Lie. Francisco Primo Verdad y Ramos, on October 4, 1808. The second block of Avenida Oriente 2, was formerly called after the Mint (now Museo Nacional ). Here are several impor- tant buildings belonging to the north-wing of the National Palace. In N. 903 is the Casa de Correos, the General Post office of the Republic and that of the D. F. (see p. 89 & 232). The adjoining building (N. 921) with the high portal, 26o ornamented with Corinthian half-columns and with heavy bronze doors (decorated with lion- heads as knockers) is the interesting **MUSEO NACIONAL. The spacy entrance-hall is painted in Aztec style. On both sides are broad stairs conducting to the upper story. The fctair-case on the left side leads to the Office and to the MU- SEUM OF NATURAL HISTORY ( Departamento de Histoiia Natural). On the ground-floor around the pretty little court- yard is the MUSEUM OF ANTIQUITIES ( Departamento de Arqueologia). In a bam adjoining it, is the STATE CAR- RIAGE of Maximiliam. (See p. 227). A. Museum of Antiquities: The visit of this interesting collection will repay the tra- veller for the want of Aztec monuments in the City. The objects are exhibited in two parts of the building enclosing the little courtyard. The larger monuments (mono- liths) are exhibited in the great southern saloon of the South Wing, known as «Galeria de los Mo- NOLlTos>, the smaller objects (pottery etc) in the saloon and adjoining rooms of the Eastern Wing in the cGalerias de los Estantes>. Official ca- talogues are said to be in preparation, but their ap- pearance seems to be postponed for a very far away . The author of this book was obliged to overcome in order difficulties great to offer to the public for the first time this guiding and systematic catalogue. (See p. 2, 95 & 122). In the saloon of the South Wing we become acquainted with Ancient Mexican Ornamental Ar- 26l CHITECTURE and Sculpture. Here are monoliths of various sizes and material, from one to over ten feet highj from a couple of pounds up to nearly 25 tons in weight, from the soft sand- and lime-sto" ne to the hardest serpentine, basalt and porphyry. The Aztecs, like the Egyptians, were remarkable for the huge masses, which they have moved and worked. The representation of objects of nature reveals more taste for the characteristic and the grotesque than for the beautiful. Statues and reliefs are sometimes painted in various colors and ornamented with inlaid work of bone, and precious stones; some of the statues seem to have been adornad with golden discs and others with feathers. Among the objects here exhi- bited are fragments of temples and castles (pala- ces ), as columns, reliefs etc. Especially interest- ing are the few remains of the famous Aztec Pan- theon of the City of Mexico (see p. 200), as the carved corner-stones of the tCoatepantli* (snake-wall, see p. 201) in N'^ 2 and 57, further the columns and caryatides (?) of Tula N^ 12, 1 8, 20.22, the reliefs of Texcoco (N^ 6) and Palenque (No 42) etc. Most of the monuments here exhibited are statues of idols, priests and nobles, from temples and palaces, memorial and sacri- ficial stones (techcatl, cuauhxicalli), the urns for the ashes of princes, and nobles (chiefly in the shape of a box), targets of the ball-play-house (tlachco, in the form of a mill-stone) etc. Statues, memorial stones and other ob- jects are often covered with iDEOGRAMfi and hieroglyphics; some of the idols are only formed of such symbols and therefore appear like monsters, as Coatlicue or 262 Cihuacoatl and MictlantecutU. These Symbols consist in figures of men, animals plants or geometrical fi- gures (undulating lines, squares a la greque etc). The interpretation of the same is in spite of the earnest researches of later years very uncertain and therefore exists such a great difference in the denom- ination of objects. Most of these symbols are closely connected with the religious ideas of the Mexicans; but the spirit of the same is still very little under- stood. The principal idea of Mythology is accord- ing to my opinion the adoration of the FOUR ELE- MENTS: fire, water, air and earth. These elements were symbolized in various objects, first in the four stars: Sun, Moon, Venus and Earth, then in certain speci- mens of mankind, animals and plants, which in some ways recall these elements, if only in name. Thus the fire-sun is represented as man, eagle etc; the water-moon as woman, water- snake, frog, turtle > rabbit, water-pitcher etc; the wind- Venus as bird Quetzal, feather, arrow head or quiver etc; the earth- world as ear of Indian corn, flower Zempoalxochitl etc. Each of these four elements and stars was adored as divinity, but under different names, even in the same tribe. The main divinity was the symbolisation of the fructifying water (atl) or rain (quiahuitl) and of the moon (meztli, the principal factor in Mexican chronology). Most of the preserved idols refer to this element and star, thus Chalchihuitlicue (skirt of certain green- stones or chalchihuitl) is the goddess of water (see Ped: 31, 44, 60), Omecihuatl (two women or twofold wo- man) goddess of the moon, Tlaloc (spread over the earth) the god of the rain, Mictlantecuili (Lord of the dead) god of death and night; Coatlicue or Cihuacoatl (skirt or woman of snakes) the goddess of fertility and mother of Huitzilopochtli-Mexitli; Tezcatli- POCA (brillant mirror) the god of the moon and time (see Fed: 47) etc. As god df fire and sun, were most frequently venerated: Xiuhtletl (fire-year) or Xiuhtecutli; Izcozauhqui (yellowish face or flame); To- TEC(our Lord)— according to Chavero also — MixcOATL (cloude-snake) and Camaxtli — month-maxlli — of the Chichimecs (?), Kinich-Kakmo (face of sun) of the Mayas etc, see N*^ 6, 25, 29, 54. The air and. Ve- nus were generally adored in Quetzalcoatl (feathered- snake), the representative of the wind, especially wel- come in Mexico as messenger of rain (see N° 51). The earth and world were especially represented in XoCHi- QUETZAL (flower-bird Quetzal) and Centeotl (god of Indian corn). Among the monoliths as well as among the other objects of the Museum are many mytho- logical SYMBOLS, as water and rattle-snake, alligator, lizzard, turtle, frog, grasshopper, tiger, bear, monkey, mountain sheep, rabbit and eagle, in whole figure or in part. (Compare: E. Riedel, La Adoracion de los Cuatro Elementos y la Significacion de las Piramides in Mexico. Boletin de la Sociedad de Geografia y Estadfstica, Cuarta Epoca, Tomo II). Very frequently appear on Mexican monuments chro- nological SYMBOLS or idiograms. The days (tlacatli) are thus represented by balls or discs, the months (meztli) by a circle with tw*enty balls recalling its 9s 264 twenty days, the year (xiuhtli) by a circle with eigh- teen balls or discs (the eighteen months of a Mexican year) or by a Greek cross (symbol of the four seasons and elements, see p. 153). Each one of the twenty days of a month has its name (see N^ 27). Four years form a little period and each year of the same has its symbolical name: < Flint > (tecpatl), < House > (calli), < Rabbit* (tochtli) and (acatl). A larger period is formed by the thirteen years of the , (earth-band) named with the foresaid symbols and the numbers 1-13 and the fifty-two years (4>^I3) of a (year-band). The ideogram of a is a staff or reed and that of a xiuh- molpilli a bundle of four staffs tied together with knots. In the saloons of the Eastern Wing we are intro- duced into Mexican Domestic Life. Besides here are idols, too and some other objects of religious exer- cises: brasiers for holy fiie (teotleco), censors (tlapo- puchuiloni), yokes and blood receptives for sacrifi- ces, masks etc. Very interesting are here the ancient Picture writings with ideograms and hierogly- phics, some of them on paper of the fiber of centu- ry plant (amatl) representing as well Mexican paint- ing as Mexican Literature. A great, part of the objects in the show-cases are dishes and Kitchen- utensils, chiefly of earthen ware and a few of stone. Many of them are still in use in Mexican houses, as for instance the peculiar grinding-stone (metlatl),the mortar (temolcaxitl), the little clay-stove, the calabash-like jars and three-legged plates. Very strange appear to us the mirrors (tezcatl) of polished obsidian. The Aztec tools and instruments consisted mainly of stone and copper: axes ajad hammers were chiefly of stone, chisls, needles and bodkins of copper, knives of obsidian. The spindles (malacatl) were composed of a disc of clay and a wooden stick. An egg-shaped stone served as potter's moulder and a smooth piece of onyx as polishing- stone. The tobacco-pipes ( acayetl ) of clay are nearly of the same form as the modern. The seals of clay were used to mark pottery and to tatoo the body. Of weapons are here exhibited arrow-heads (mitl), points of javelins (tepuztopilli) and of the peculiar Mexican sword (macahuitl), axes ( cuhtlateconi ) and the shield ( chimalli ) of Moc- tezuma II. But few Ornaments of gold, silver and copper are here conserved, yet many of stone, bone, muscle -shell etc; very curious is the lip -ornament (tentetl) in form of a stove-pipe hat. The cchalchi- huitl> a kind of green stone (diorite) was the most precious stone of the Aztecs. The thin copper pieces, somewhat in form of a or anchor, about 5 inches long, were the Coins of Toltecs and Aztecs. Musical Instruments are represented in whistles (cuauhtoto- potli, imitating sound of bird) chalms and rattles (aya- cachlli) of clay and the two kinds of wooden drums, the high and the long . — We will begin our Review of antiquities in the South- Wing: The objects are arranged in four series: The first line forms a row of wooden pedestals (Fed:), numbered from 1-58, beginning on the north wall, at the left from the entrance. Between them some objects ^Yithout numbers are placed upon the floor. The SECOND LINE is formed on a balustrade (Bali), along the southern wall, ^y objects without number; the THIRD LINE by a series of brackets (Bra:), posted on the walls and marked with Roman figures; the FOURTH line is formed by three colossal monuments in the center of the room, N° 59-6 1. North-Wall: *Ped: i, Well carved, coiled Rattle" snake of porphyry. Bra: I. Feathered Rattle Snake, *Ped: 2, Colossal HeadofSnake, with protruding tongue and eagle- claw, of basalt, 2.85 ft. high, 2.89 It. broad 4.90 ft. long, partially demolished, with traces of painting, found in gar- den before Cathedral of Mexico; formed (like N^ 57) part of enclosing (Coatepantli) in front of pyramid of Tla- loc-Huitzilopochtli, was afterwards used as basis of a pillar in first Cathedral. 3, Feathered Snake of ba- salt. Near it Target of ball-play-house, of basalt. Bra: II, Rattle-Snake. Fed: 4, Monumental Stone of basalt, partially demolished, 3.50 ft. high, with traces of painting, decorated with symbols of the water, as undulating lines, sprays of water, skull and hand, sea-muscle and butterfly. 5, Carved block of basalt, with claw and symbol of water. Bra: III, Snake. *Ped: 6, Fragment of Bas-relief of red porphyry 7.87 ft, long 4.42 ft. wide, i ft. thick, found in Texcoco, representing a warrior with shield and adornment of feathers; on his arm is the sign of < Acolhuacan > (the principaUty of Texcoco); according to Chavero Mix- coatl or Xiuhtletl (fire ) ? Bra: IV and V; Two alli- gators, holding the tail between their feet. Fed: 7, Head and Rattle of snake, of basalt, found in Tec- 267 tihuacan. 8, Large Head of Tiger of basalt, from Teotihuacan. 9, Large Head of Mountain sheep, of basalt, from Teotihuacan. lo. Pyramidally coiled snake, with eagle claws and other ornaments, of basalt. II, Monument of basalt, 2.55 ft. high. Bra: VI, Snake, protruding tongue, of basalt. *Ped: 12, Ornamented Column of basalt, from Tula consisting of three parts, joined by socket and binding pin. Bra: VII, Snake of basalt with protruding tongue and claw. In the Center **N" 59, Colossal Idol of gray basalt, 8.41 ft. high, 5.03 ft. broad, found in Main Square of Mexico, on Aug. 13, 1790 and loi 1/3 ft. west from the National Palace. It represents (Cihuacoatl) the goddess of fertility and mother of Huizilopochtli (or Mictlancihuatl, god- dess of the dead) in a female monster of two faces with the head of a snake, the teeth of a tiger and protruding tongue, on the head is the date (1491 ?). The bosom is covered with the hands of sacrificial victims, the girdle with two skulls (in front and back); each arm is covered with four eagle-claws and ends in a snake with protruding tongue; t>ie skirt is woven from snakes; the legs are feathered and the feet are claws. Under the feet is the symbolic figure of <]SIictlantecuhtli>, (similar to that of N° 33, 51 and 58), copied in a plaster-cast, which rests at the base of the figure. Eastern Side Wall; Ped: 16, Sexangular basalt- stone, ornamented with circles, rabbit and the date < Flint 6 3 (1420 ?). Bra: IX, Three small curious statues. Ped: 14, Square urn cf basalt 2.06 ft. high, 268 2.65 ft. long 2.55 ft. broad, outer walls are orna^ mented with a humming-bird upon a blooming branch and the ideogram « Water 5>; the interior is cy- lindrical. Bra: X, Little Square urn of basalt with its lid; on the walls of the former are several number « fives* (Aztec weeks), on the latter the date tFlint lo> (1476?); traces of painting. Fed: 15, Fragment of ornamented column of basalt. Bra: XI, (13), Little square Urn of basalt, ornamented with skulls and rabbits; (14) Melon of green-stone. Fed: 16, Square Urn of basalt 1.70 ft. high, 2.68 ft. long, 2.55 ft. broad, ornamented with fighting warriors. *Bra: XII, Little square Urn, ornamented with sym- bols and the figure of a noble penitent, perforating his ear with the obsidian knife; according to Chavero this pict- ure represents prince Ahuitzotl (■j"l502) and this urn contained his ashes. Dr. Antonio Penafiel considers it a «tecaxitl> or receptive for the blood of per- sonal flagellation. Fed: 17, small square Urn of ba- salt 1. 1 8 ft. high, 1.96 ft. long, 1.86 ft. broad with flowers and the date splint 2> (1468?). South Wall: Bra: XIII, Stooping Man of basalt. *Fed; 18, Fragment (legs and feet of a man) of a co- lossal statue of basalt, from Tula considered as cary- atides (?). Bra: XIV, Relief of basalt, divinity or priest. Fed: 19, Block of basalt with relief. Bra: XV, Some crude figures among them (19), Ball-player of basalt. *Ped: 20, Fragment of colossal statue, 6.75 ft. high (from Tula, Cerro del Tesoro). Bra: XVI and XVII, Six Curious little figures. Fed: 21, Rectangular Urn of basalt 1, 21 ft. high, 3. 31 ft. long, 269 1.96 ft. broad, found in Santiago Tlaltelolco (Mexico), ornamented with chronological signs (xiuhmolpilli etc). 22, Fragment of colossal statue from Tula ( like N° 20). 23, Female Idol of trachytic tuff 3.08 ft. high, with traces of painting, representing Coatlicue, as woman with long tresses, a frontlet with thick tassels and discs and a girdle with snakes, in hands vessel. Bra: XVIII, Two grotesque male figure with pig-head, one stooping, the other stajnding. — On the Balustrade are several fragments and smaller objects, among them a little conic and ornamented stone of basalt, 1.44 ft. high, according to Chavero the sacrificial stone . — On the floor lies a Snake-Rattle of basalt 4.10 ft. long, from Teotihuacan and an Ornamental Stone of basalt with circular and angular figures. — Ped: 24, Female Idol of basalt, 2.78 ft. high; Mictlan- cihuatl represented as a woman with skull as head and claws for hands, ornamented with discs. **2$ Idol of trachytic tuff 4.78 ft. long (at the base), 2.52 ft. broad, 3.50 ft. high with traces of painting, found in 1874 by the American archaeologist Dr. A. Le Plongeon in Chichen-Itza (Yucatan) and wrongly considered by him as a statue of Chac-mool, prince of the Itzaez. Chavero considers it as Kinich-Kakmo, god of sun and fire (?). It represents a man half reclining, with his knees raised, holding in his hands a disc-like vessel, which rests upon his stomach. On the head he wears a kind of cap with ear-pieces, the frontlet of the same is formed by 120 octagonal stones (days of the year). On the collar hangs the chronological sign i xiuhmolpilli*, the arms are adorned with three brace* 270 lets Near this statue, on the floor lies a turtle of basaltic lava-stone, *Bra: XX, (32), Very character- istic head of a man, of gray lava-stone with a kind of cap; expressing pain in his face, probably from the statue of a sacrifice. Ped: 26, Female Idol of trachytic tuff 3.77 ft. high, from Tehuacan (Puebla) painted and inlaid with bone and colored stones, representing «Coatlicue>. The head is a skull with inlaid teeth, ears ornamented with green stones, on the cheek- bones are green discs, on the chest a hole for another ornament; hands and feet are claws. The skirt is woven of snakes. Compare with N" 57 etc. Ura: XXI, Chief or Priest with high feather crown in stooping position. — Upon the Balustrade stone-figur^ as frogs, turtles etc.— On the floor another large turtle of basaltic lava-stone. **N° 27. In front of entrance stands the famous Mon- ument, known as « Calendar-Stone >, which has almost become the symbol of Aztec civilisation. It is a large irregular monolith of basaltic poi^hyry, 12.23 ft. greatest length, 2.72 ft. thick, weighs about 24.4 tons (of 1,000 kilograms) and shows traces of red painting. This stone was first discovered in the middle of the i6tii century, but was buried again at the order of the Archbishop Montufar, reencountered Dec. 17, 1790 on Main Square of Mexico, 219 ft. west from the central portal of National Palace, till 1885 deposited on the west-wall of the western tower of the Cathedral, since August of that year in the National Museum. It is one of the finest and most interesting monuments of Aztec art and demonstrates artistic taste and 271 geometrical calculation. Mr. Antonio Leon y Gama described it first in 1792, (as an Aztec Calendar), although it contains only certain parts of the same. Humboldt promulgated this idea and it was generally accepted, until lately modern archaeologists undertook the guess-work again on their own account: Chavero declared it to be , Batres and < Flint I >; under the vessel, names of two days and c Monkey 7> which probably correspond to the two years above mentioned. There are, further, in the same circle five large discs between the figures. The SECOND RING contains in rectangles the name of the twenty days of an Aztec month (meztli, meaning also moon); they begin above the point of the arrow- head of the first circle and continue toward the left and are called: swordfish, air, house, lizzard, snake; skull, deer, rabbit, water, dog; monkey, twisted-herb (malinalli), reeds, tiger, eagle; bird ( cozcaquauhtli) sun-movement (ollin tonatiuh), flint, rain and flower. The THIRD RING is interrupted by four large arrow- heads ( which extend to the sixth ring ) and thus divided into four parts, each of them contains lo squares 'with 5 balls or days that makes 4X5^ balls or 200 days (and not 1 90 as Chavero says, to support his theory). The fourth ring is not only interrupted by the aforesaid four large arrow-heads, 273 but also by four smaller ones and by eight vessels, ornamented with five balls, three arches and a disc. Between the eight arrow-heads are each time lo arches (the lower ones are incomplete on account of the two heads) or altogether 80 arches and in the middle between the eight arrow-heads and the eight vessels is each time upon this ring a disc (altogether 16, but two are not to be seen). The fifth ring contains between each arrow-head and vessel four yokes (cipactli) and above them a symbol of feathers and four points, altogether 64 yokes and 16 symbols. The SIXTH RING is mainly formed by two snakes. The two tails of the same terminate in arrow-heads and feathers; between them is in a rectangle the date (1479?). In every snake's head ap- pears the face of a man with protruding tongue and many ornaments, as feathers, eagle-claws, discs ear pendants etc; the head at the left represents ac- cording to Chavero Tonatiuh, the sun, (according to my opinion Tezcatlipoca or Tlaloc) and that at the right Quetzatcoatl (wind). The tail of each snake consists mainly of twelve rectangular rubrics, orna- mented with a certain symbol (according to Chavero the sign of reeds), surrounded by lo balls (days) and three xiuhmolpilli (four reeds). The first rubric near each head is covered with the symbol of snake (wa- ter-moon) and eagle (fire-sun); between the eleventh and twelfth rubric is the ideogram of the period of 52 years (xiuhmolpilli); the twelth rubric contains 18 balls (a year). Above this rubric are nine staffs, supporting six discs. The seventh ring upon the 274 edge consists of an iacomplete chain of 2x60 balls. The RIM of the disc is ornamented with conic figures half-stars and balls; the former are according to Cha- vero symbols of the heavens. Bra: XXII, Three little figures. - Upon the Balus- trade are figures of a kneeling woman, with traces of red painting, snakes lizzards etc, of basalt, green- stone etc.— *Ped: 28, Idol of trachytic tuff 3.77 ft. high, from Tehuacan; according to Chavero god To- tec. Upon the head are small holes for a wig or the feather ornament (capillo). — Near it. Female Idol, painted, the goddess of moon and water; frontlet with 7 discs, ear-pendants with discs, hands crossed over the bosom; on right arm nine discs (months). Bra: XXIII, Three curious little figures. *Ped: 29, Idol of basaltic lava, 4.75 ft. long 1.96 ft. broad and high, found in Tlaxcala, Camaxtle or Xiuhtecutli? Like N^ 25 a reclin- ing man holding in his hands a disc. His head is covered with a frontlet of discs (10?) and ear pendants,— Near it. Target of ball- play- house. Bra: XXIV and XXV, four curious figures, among them a priestess. — Upon the Balustrade are figures of men, snakes ( one with human face in head), tiger-heads, a cylinder with chronological signs etc. Noteworthy, torso of a **Fe- male Statue of basaltic porphyry, 2.52 ft. high, one of the finest pieces of Aztec sculpture, represents a goddess or priestess, wearing a frontlet with thick tassels, a pointed and embroidered garment and a tight skirt figured with squares; hands and feet are lost. — Ped: 30, Idol of basalt, 2.78 ft. high, kneeling Mitlancihuatl; wearing over the head a frontlet with 9 skulls, from the necklace hang skulls and hands, skirt adorned with figures of feathers etc.— Near it fragments of a Column of basalt, 3.37 ft. long, 1.80 ft. in diameter; aides are ornamented with symbols; 31, Female Idol of basaltic porphyry 4.75 ft. high, from Tlalmanalco (Valley of Mexico), goddess of the moon (according to Chavero Chalchihuitlicue), head ornamented with , stars, arrow-heads and tassels.— Near it cylinder of basalt 3.60 ft. in diameter, ornamented with circles discs and 8 xiuhmolpilli.— Upon the Bal: are statues, idols, head of a bear etc.— Bra: XXVI, Three Female Idols, goddesses of moon a^d water? Ped: 32. Cylinder of basalt 0.88 ft. high, 1.64 ft. in diameter with circles, discs and other symbols.— Near it Target of ball-play-house, 3.28 ft. in diame- ter, 1.04 ft. thick, hole 1.54 ft. in diameter. Bra: XXVII, Three crude idols. Ped: 33, Cylinder of basalt, 0.95 ft. thick, 3.93 ft. in diameter; in front, Relief, symbol of Mectlantecutli?, with eagle claws, upon the breast a shield— it served for years as mill-stone. 34, Ornamented Cylinder with traces of painting. Bra: XXVIII, Three figures, N^ 53 good head of woman. *Ped; 35, Ornamented Vase of basalt, 2.78 ft. in diameter, with spout and two handles. 36, Ornamented Cylinder of basalt. Bra: XXIX, Crude and curious Idols. *Ped; 37. Ornamented Vessel of basalt, 1.86 ft. high, 3.67 ft. in diameter, found in Mexico (San Francisco); heart-receptive; below a symbolic relief of Mictlantecutli ?, head of a man with protruding tongue (upon which flint), ear-pendants, discs; surrounded by skulls, owls, scorpion, centipedes etc 38, Ornamented Vase of basalt 1.21 ft. high, 2.46 ft. in diame- ter; urn or heart receptive, decorated on the rim with skulls. Bra: XXX, Crude figures; XXXI, Snakes Fed: 39. Memorial stone of sand-stone 4-49 ft high, 3.74 ft- ^ide with ideographics (tiger-head, discs etc), covered the entrance of a grave in Xoco ^^^5 \vall: Fed; 40, Ornamented Cylinder of basalt, 1.47 ft. high, 2.46 ft. in diameter; nm de- corated with head and arms of a n^^^, head of rabbit etc. Bra: XXVII (64), Kehef of trachyUc ufT representing a chief. *Ped: 41, Cross of basalt 3.1 1 ft high, 2.62 ft. broad, from Mexico, arms termi- Ling in two snake's heads. Bra; XXXIII, LUtle Cy Under of basalt, with relief of stooping man. * Fed^ 42, Relief of trachytic tuff, about 6 1/3 ft. high with the famous (Chiapas). Upon a tiger- head stands a cruciform tree, the Tonacaquahuitl or tree of life, ornamented with flowers, in the upper bran- ches of the same rests the beautiful bird (see p. 45); a priest or chief stands at the left of the cross with offerings. Above the arms of the man and at both sides of the picture are hierogly- phics Bra: XXXIV, Memorial Stones. Fed: 43- Statue of sandstone representing a high P^-t - his vestments (high feather-crown etc). Bra: XXXV Cru- de Idols. Fed: 44, Idol of basalt, 2.78 ft. high; god- dess of the moon, like N° 31, ^ith high head-gear (three chronological staffs, stars etc). In the Center are two colossal monoliths; the most interesting of these is -N" 61, the celebrated 277 < Sacrificial Stone>, a large cylinder of very hard basaltic porphyry, 2.75 ft. high, 27.15 ft. in circum- ference 8.69 ft.' in diameter, found Dec. 17, 1791 near the southwest corner of the atrium of the Ca- thedral; on Nov. 10, 1824 transported to the Museum of the University. It is according to Chavero the heart-receptive of the temple Cuauhxicalco, (property of the Order of Warriors of Eagle and Tiger) and probably also used as temalacatl or sacrificial stone for the < Messenger to the Sun*. Face and rim of the stone are ornamented with reliefs, the former are 0.97 the latter 0.8 1 inches high. In the center of the Face is a circular cavity ( 1.50 ft. diame- ter, 0.49 ft. deep), around which seven rings with chronological signs are grouped, similar to those of the < Calendar Stone> ( N'^ 27). From the center to the edge and continuing over the rim is a deep canal, made after the Conquest, in order to des- troy the stone. The second ring contained 1 8 discs (the months of the Aztec year), the fourth 40 and the fifth 50 balls (ninety days or the fourth part of a year). The sixth ring, interrupted by four large arrow-heads consists of 4X8 squares, each with the number 5 (Aztecs weeks). The seventh ring (divided, as well by the above-mentioned arrow-heads as also by four smaller ones and eight vessels with a Greek cross, four arches and a disc) contains under each of the 8 vessels, 8 arches and at each side a disc. Around the RIM are 1 5 pairs of figures, each consisting of a warrior holding with his left hand a prisoner or sacrifice by a tuft of hair. Fourteen of the warriors 278 are dressed like god Totec; the fifteenth distinguishei himself by his higher head-dress and has at his right the sign clegs (symbol of prince Tizoc ). Over each prisoner is the name of his native town; two of them are women (one of Xochimilco ' and the other ©f Colhuacan). These pairs represent according to Sanchez and Chavero the procession or dance of the sacrifices (prisoners) at the New-years festival, called Xoxohuetzi, celebrated every fourth year in honor of the god of fire, especially by the above-mentioned order, presided by the prince. The monument refers to the festival of 1484, when prince Tizoc, the con- queror of several of the cities mentioned in the hie- roglyphics', was the leader of the procession. The re- lief recalls historical representations in Egyptian and Assyrian monuments. Under the figures are arrow- heads, discs and 4 rectangles with 8 flints in each, (probably the date of construction, 1500?). In front of this monument stands upon *Ped: N° 60 the colossal Idol of Teotihuacan, a crude figure of porphyry, 1 0.4 6 ft. high, 5.41 ft. broad at the base, weighing 16,318 tons (of 1,000 kilograms). It stood in a cave, at the foot of the « Pyramid of the Moon> in Teotihuacan, where it was discovered at the beginning of this century and wrongly consid- ered by Mayer, Chavero etc, as altar. In 1890, Mr. Batres transported it to the National Museum. It represents Chalchihuitlicue as goddess of moon and water, carrying upon the head a square stone with a little canal in the center. The ear -pen- dants are ornamented with discs; under the collar Take the Mexican fiational R. R., "LAREDO ROUTE" SAFETY, COMFORT and QUICK TIME. To all posits in the United States and Canada. Only 5 days to New York by the < Aztec LIMITED* Mexico City to Laredo. The scenic short line PULLMAN SLEEPING CARS®^ Direct connections made in Union Depots. For further informations call at Ticket and Telegraph Offices. OOLISEO STREET, Under OR ADDRESS: B. W. Thacher, Gen'l Pass. Agent. C. P. Barrett, Ticket Agent. CITY OF MEXICO. MINING EXPERT. GradvMted Mining Engineer of the National School of Mints of Mexico and in the Dnited States. Surveys, Assays. Mexican Patent Trade Mark and Copyright- — ' AGENCY: 3^ Independencia N. i. Avenida Poniente 6, N. 47. — MEXICO — *^EL MINERO MEXIOANO" The Mining Journal of Mexico.^ ESTABLISHED 1873. The Oldest and Largest circulated weekly Paper in the Republic of Mexico. Organ of the Richest and Most Intelligent Class of Mexicans. 3* Calle de Independencia, num. i. MEXICO. ooo<^ Advertising Rates Low<^ooo 279 of square stones is a hole, probably once filled Tvith a golden disc (moon); the hands hold a water basin. The bracelet of each arm is formed by 2X5 stones (a month). The skirt is bordered with squares, spiral Hnes (snails) and tassels. In front of each foot are the hieroglyphics of water, at the sides are 5 discs. (Compare: E. Riedel, La Diosa del Agua y de la Luna, Boletin de la Sociedad de Geograffa y Estadistica, Cuarta Epoca, Tom. 2, N° i & 2). Northern Side Wall; Fed: 45, So-called Cross of Teotihuacan, of basalt, about 4^ ft. high, found by M. Charnay in a palace at the western side of the < Street of the Dead> in Teotihuacan; ornamented with four conical figures (teeth). 46, Coiled Snake of green-stone, 1.90 ft. high, ornamented with claws, xiuhmolpilli etc. Bra; XXXVI and XXXVII, Some crude figures; on that of N*' 75 the ribs are marked. **Ped: 47, Colossal Head of Idol of green-stone, 2.98 ft. high, 1.80 ft. broad 7. 3 1 ft. in circumference, found in a house of Av. Oriente, near Ca. Sur 9, (Ca, Santa Teresa), near the site of the temple of Tezcatlipoca: a master-piece of Aztec sculpture ! It is the head of a man, like that on the « Calendar stone », with protruding tongue; his hair is decorated with a frontlet and numerous muscle-shells, his ears with pendants and discs, his cheeks with a circle in which is a Greek cross between four balls, below the head is the relief of a snake with protruding tongue, adorned with muscles, discs and water-sprays. Ac- cording to Chavero this is god Totec (time), accord- ing to my opinion Tezcatlipoca. 48, Cylinder of ba- 28o salt, 1.34 ft. long, 0.52 ft. diameter, representing a bundle of 33 staffs or reeds, tied together vtith two ropes; upon the same is the date «Reed 2>, on the sides € Flint i >, and « Skull l>. It is a memorial stone, recording, as believes Chavero, the reform of the Aztec Calendar in 1454 (?). Bra: XXXVIII, Some Idols (N° 78 recalls the figure upon the balustrade, behind Fed: 29). Fed: 49, Coiled Rattle. Snake with protruding tongue. 50, Memorial Stone, 3.60 ft. high, 1.80 wide and 1.17 ft. thick. Bra: XXXIX, Three Figures of bear and rabbits. Fed: 5 1, Conically coiled, feathered Rattle Snake, 3.60 ft. high, symbol of god Quetzalcoatl. In the head is the face of a man, at the bottom of the snake is the symbol of Mictlantecutli (?) as shown in N° 33, 59 etc. Near it ornamented Target of ball-play-house, 2.72 ft. in diameter, 0.88 ft. thick, hole 0.91 ft. in diameter. Bra: XL, Some crude Fig- ures, grass-hopper etc. Fed: 52. Large Vase, orn- amented with a coiled and feathered snake, painted red. Near it ornamented Target of ball play-house, 3.04 ft. in diameter, I.oi ft. thick, hole 1.04 ft. in diameter. Bra; XLI. Kneeling Woman. *Fed: 53. The famous «Indio Triste> (Sad Indian) of hard, blackish basalt, 3.37 ft. high, 1.83 ft. broad, found in Ca. Sur II, near Av. Or. Two blocks of Ca. Sur 1 1, were formerly named after this idol. The figure re- presents a stooping man, wearing a cap with ear- pendants and a blanket around his shoulders. Be- tween the two folded hands and the feet is a hole to support a banner. This is probably one of the two standard-bearers of the pyramid of Tlaloc-Huitzilo- 28l pochtli, which appear in Duran's picture of the tem- ple. Bra: XLII, Cylinder of basalt, with chronologi- cal signs, *Ped: 54, Entranced Indian of basalt^ painted red, sitting upon an ornamented stool, 1. 5 7 ft. high. His head is adorned with feathers and discs (the eyes were inlaid), his collar with eagle-claws, his arms and legs with flowers. Like Vhe figure of Fed: 53 the hands are arranged to hold something, probably a torch. It represents according to Chav«ro god Ixco- zauhqui (fire). Near it Coiled Snake. Bra: XLIII, (92), Little square Memorial Stone with date < Flint 3>. Fed; 55, Coiled Snake, found in Mexico — near it another. 'Fed: 56, Memorial Stone of green-stone 3.25 ft. high, 2.29 ft. broad, 1. 54 ft. thick, found in Mexico, commemorating the completion of the Aztec Pantheon. It is ornamented with a relief of the two princes Tizoc and Ahuitzotl and the date « Reeds 8> (1487). Near it Female Idol of basalt, 3.47 ft. high, dressed like that opposite on balustrade; in head, breast and hands are holes. Bra: XLIV, (94) Bundle of Reeds, marked with skull, like Fed: 48, but small- er. Bra: XLV, (97). Relief with figures of animals. Fed: 57, Colossal Head of Snake with feathers and claws, ( like Fed: 2) , from the enclosure of the pyramid in Mexico; 4.14 ft. long, 3.1 1 ft. high, 3.60 ft. broad. — Near it fragments of a Vase, a Frog of basalt with female head in his mouth etc. 58, Coiled, feathered Snake of basalt, underneath or- namented like N° 33, 51 etc, with symbol of Mictlan- tecutli (?). Bra: XLVL Some Figures. East Win§: Before the door at right hand stands a bronze bust of Philip V., at the left fragment of an idol; there are, further, two anchors (one with date 1733) etc. In the Entrance Hall ( Zaguan ) are at both sides, on the floor, some smaller monoliths of basalt etc, representing idols, statues and symbols (some of them in fragments). On the walls are plas- ter-casts of some interesting monuments. The nume- ration begins at the left (north-wall). Noteworthy are there: *N° 5, Torso of good male figure, eyes are inlaid. Above it is a plaster cast of the ideograms of the memorial stone of Tenango (original in Museo ofToluca). 14, Coiled Rattle-Snake of porphyry. 21, Female Idol with high head-gear. — In front of the southern wall are: 28, Sitting Bear, of basalt. 34) Coiled Rattle Snake with fragments of an eagle (claws) upon it. On the wall: Relief of kneeling chief with offerings, found in the state of Campeche. Plaster- cast of the < Cross of Palenque> (see p. 276) etc. At the entrance *Relief of basalt, Goddess of the Moon, head ornamented with staffs of period, feathers (painted green) and discs; above the frontlet are seven balls, the tongue is protruding, the skirt is figured with five discs: Chalchlhuitlicue as goddess of the moon. Between the eight columns are: At the left (north), N^ 23 Coiled Snake; *24 Ornamented Brazier of clay (teotleco), 2.95 ft. high, found in Mexico, Santiago Tlalte- lolco; in front crude relief of idol, head in mouth of snake, through gristle of nose a bone, head and breast orna- mented with discs and five hands. At the right 25, Stooping Priest. *26 Ornamented Brazier of clay, like 24, better conserved, but smaller, about 283 2,75 ^^' ^ig^j found in Ixtapalapam. Near it Coiled Snake. The Central Saloon (Galena de los Estantes) is a spacy hall with eight columns; the objects are lined in front of the walls and are mostly in show-cases (Sh,-C), the numeration of the same begins at the right, along the western wall — between them are placed some larger objects and above them manu- scripts of picture-writings. Close to the entrance stands a thick Water Jar ot earthen ware about 2| ft. high with four handles. Above it hangs a *< Round Shield of Moc- tezuma II. >, sent by Cortes to the Emperor Charles V., afterwards in possession of the Museum of Brussels and that of Vienna, in 1 866 presented by Maximilian to the Museum of Mexico. It is covered with tiger- skin and was once richly ornamented with feathers and probably also with gold and jewels. Sh.-C. I. < Antiquities of Toltec (?) Civilisation) (states of Mexico and Hidalgo): Red Sc black Pottery, as dishes, vases, small stove, litlle heads of idols and por- traits, mostly from Teotihuacan. Especially noteworthy a *Colored Vase of fine yellowish clay, covered with a layer of plaster, I ft. high, painted with cones, but- terfly, flowers etc. — Above the case two Picture Writ- ings.— At the side, Idol of clay, 2.75 ft. high, some- what in the form of a « Greek Hermes >, found 1842 ■upon the hill El Encantado on the island Manapostiac^ in the lake of Divenaraer (near Tehuantepec). The head is adorned with symbols, eyes are open, through gristle of nose a bone, mouth with tiger-teeth: repre- sents Tlaloc or rather Tezcatlipoca (as full-moon). 284 Sh.-C. 2. €Toltec(?) Civilisation >, continued: Red Pottery (as idols, figurines, whistles, imitating sound of bird) masks etc, mostly from Teotihuacan. Note- worthy are the jointed dolls of clay and the framed and painted Relief with head of Quetzalcoatl, from Colhuacan. Above these two cases hangs one of the most im- portant and interesting **Aztec Picture Writings, N^ I, on a single sheet of paper (fiber of the century plant), 17.85 ft. long and 7. 71 inch: wide; formerly property of the archaeologist Boturini, then of the secretary of the Viceroy and afterwards presented to the Museum. After the fall of the second empire it was hidden in a cellar of the School of Engineering and there re-discovered 1871. It represents according to Chavero the pilgrimage of the Aztecs from Zum* pango to Colhuacan (i 116 -1303). At the right from the entrance to the South-Room hangs an other oil-painting by Jose Velasco: c Ancient Aqueduct of Texcotzinco >, with the basin, called < Bath of prince NetzahualcoyotU. — We eater through the door into the little South Room (Salon de las Joyas— Room of the Jewels), decorated on three walls with photographs and plans and a map of ancient Mexican ruins by L. Batres. On the southern wall are four canvasses with Picture Writings from Tlaxcala, representing the Con- quest of Mexico by the Spaniards, from Tlaxcala to Quechtlan, (copied in 1779 from a lost Indian MS. on paper of the fiber of century-plant), by Juan M. Yllanes. At each side of these pictures are two little oil- 285 paintings by J. Velasco, representing the « Pyramids of Teotihuacan>.— ^In the center is a little show-case with ancient jewelry: Two thin Discs of gold leaf, about as big as a dollar, each one with the figure of a monkey; ornament or remembrance-token. Double Idol of gold, about 3 1/3 inch, high, representing Tlaloc (rain) and Quetzalcoatl (wind) with filigree ornamen- tation, holding with his hands two plates, on reverse- side engraved with the date < Reeds 2> and « Eagle 4>, found in the ruins of El Taj in (Papantla, state of Veracruz). Head of Idol of gold, about ii inch, high. Idol of gold about an inch high, found in the state of Jalisco, representing Tezcatlipoca or Tlaloc. Ring in gold filigree with the symbol of Quetzalcoatl and the element wind, found in Teotihuacan. Golden earring with three bells. Ten golden Pearls. Silver Idol of Peru. Lip -ornament with eagle-head, found in Ato- tonilco el Grande.— Returning again to the Central Saloon (ist Continuation), we notice at the left side of entrance another oil painting by J, Velasco: The Cypress of the « Dismal Night >(Noche Triste, see p. 197) in Popotla. We continue now the review of the show-cases in front of east-wall Sh.-C: 3, < Aztec Bric-a-Brac> of stone (obsidian, crystal, green-stone, limestone etc), bone, shell, clay and copper, as ornaments (representing balls, skulls, hearts etc, for chains and amulets), axes and hammers of basalt and copper, chisels, needles, bodkins, bells and coins of copper etc. |)specially represented is the lip-orna- ment. Above the case is Aztec Picture Writing N^ 17. At the side is another Idol of clay from the 286 island Manapostiac, similar to the opposite one, between Sh. C. I and 2, but with eyes shut (New-moon). Sh.-C:4, « Civilisation of Mayas > (Yucatan, Campeche, Chiapas): Red and painted Pottery, as dishes, figurines, idols etc. Noteworthy is the round vessel with the head of a man, painted green, from Chiapas, — Above the case isablack Aztec Picture Writing of modern times. At the side is the figure of a Sexangular Giant Cactus of basalt, found in Mexico, Tlaltelolco, below ornamenied with snakes, according to Chavero a sacrificial stone (?), according to Orozco y Berra boundary stone (Tetl=stone, Nochtli=Cactus) of Tenochtitlan. Sh.-C: 5, « Civilisation of Acolhuas or Chichimecas* (Texcoco): Red Pottery (dishes, idols), mirror of obsi- dian, masks, censers and blood receptives of sacrifices of onyx, chains, lip- and other ornaments, a little wooden music-Instrument (teponaztle) etc. Noteworthy are the little vessel of obsidian, ornamented with a monkey and the blood-receptive of onyx, found on the island of Sacrificios, near Veracruz. — Above the case Picture Writing N° 8, (plan). Sh.-C; 6, < Civilization of Mixteca> (Oaxaca,Puebla): Gray, red & painted Pottery (dishes, vases, idols, figures, tobacco-pipes etc), further masks etc. Noteworthy are three white modern tea-pots, here exhibited as anti- quities 1 !— Above the case Picture Writing N« i. Near the window another Picture Writing (plan), Sh.-C: 7, « Civilisation of Tlaxcala and Cholulai: Red & painted Pottery (dishes, kitchen utensils, seals, censers, idols, figurines etc), musical-instruments. Note- worthy are the different seals of clay, the painted 287 censers in form of vases and the ornamented wooden drum of Tlaxcala (Teponaxlle), with the head of a man (the eyes are inlaid with bone). — Above this case Picture Writing N" 24 (a plan). At the base of the window, Coat of Mail, of clay. Near the window hangs Picture Writing N° 12, made after the Con- quest, as official document, stating the ceding of lands by some Indians of Tlaxcala to certain Spanish scribes. Sh.-C: 8, « Civilisation of Aztecs*: Red Pottery (idols, figures of temples, seals etc), musical -instruments. Noteworthy are the little clay-figures of Aztec pyra- midal temples and the two large .— Above this case Picture Writing. — We are now at the door of the North Room (Salon de los Yugos— Room of the sacrificial yokes), which contains seven show-cases and a Picture Writing: Sh.-C: 9, < Civilisation of Tarascans* (Michoacan), at the southern wall: Red Pottery (dishes, kitchen utensils, idols, symbols, tobacco-pipes etc), copper-plate and masks. Noteworthy are the tobacco-pipes, the vessel in form of a monster (dog with human face), the fine mask of obsidian and the round engraved copper- plate. Sh.-C; 10, < Aztec Civilisation > : Red Pottery (dishes, kitchen utensils and — some modern tea- and milk-pots I) Noteworthy the little carved idol of dark basalt (N" 57): Quetzalcoatl, as a snake with human face further, two heads of priests of stone. Sh.-C; II, < Indian Civilisation of North- Amer- 288 ica»: Crude pottery, (dishes, kitchen utensils, jars, tobacco-pipes, idols, figures etc) arrow-heads and lance-points, clubs, axes etc. Noteworthy are the large stone-axes, the dishes in form of calabashes. — At either side of the case is a curious, life-sized clay- figure of a man wearing a head-dress like a Turkish turban, with long pendants at both sides; upon the stomach is a star; from the figure of the left side only the bust is conserved. Sh.-C: 12, < Aztec Civilisation* continued: Here are various instruments, tools and arms of stone, bone, muscle etc, as moulding and polishing-stcnes for pot- ters, net-weights for fishers; further, arrow-heads, points of javelins and Aztec swords, knives of obsidian etc. — In this wall is a door to another little room, which will soon be used for the exhibition of antiquities. On the other side of this door hangs a large ancient *Map of Tenochtitlan, drawn on paper of century plant, from the Collection of Boturini; the center is unfortunately incomplete. It shows the numerous ca- nals, streets and houses and the large causeways. Sh.-C: 13, c Aztec Civilisation*, continued: Orna- ments (as chains, amulets of stone, bone, muscle, clay etc), instruments and tools. The little convex discs with a hole in the center are parts of Aztec spindles (malacatl). Sh.-Cases of the center, c Aztec Civilisation* con- tinued: Red Pottery (dishes, kitchen utensils, idols, figurines, seals, bird-whistles and kind of chalms etc). Noteworthy are the two little onyx vessels somewhat like a modern iokstaad and the six well polished and 2%i orHatnented *Yokes of basalt and serpentine for sacri- fices. — We return now the second time to the Central Saloon (2d continuation) to see the objects on its western wall: Sh.-C: 14, c Aztec Civilisation > continued; Fine mirrors of obsidian, vases, masks, idols etc; five wooden drums (teponaztle). Noteworthy is the drum ornamented with the head of a wolf, whose teeth are inlaid and the large vase of onyx with a spout.— Above this case Picture Writing N' 18 of modern times. Near it stands the high wooden drum sHuehuetb about 3| ft. high. Above the same is Picture Writing N-' 10, re- presenting the Genealogical Table of Baltazar Men- doza, grand-child of Moctezuma II. and descendant oi prince Netzahualcoyotl. Then follows a painted Urn of clay with reliefs, found in Mexico (Santiago Tlaltelolco) in front is the head of Xochiquetzal sur- rounded by flowers (Zempoalxochitl) and ears of Indian corn; according to Chavero Centeotl, goddess of Corn. Above the urn is the List of Custoois, paid by the Vassals of Moctezuma II., compiled in 1520 by his officers, at the request of Cortes (Collection of Botu- rini; 16 pages on paper of century plant, incomplete). Sh.-C: 15, c Aztec Civilisation >, continued: Black & red Pottery (vases, idols, figurines, pipes, chalms, rattles and— two modern soup-tureens !), masks, vases etc. Noteworthy is the rattle of black clay in the form of a coiled snake, found in Mexico (San Cosme); ♦Sit- ting Highpriest of red clay, crowned with a diadem; the dead Warrior, — Above the case is Picture Writing N'^ 7. At the side of it stands another Urn of clay. 290 «milar to that on the right side. Above it hangs the picture of a painted relief of a stone, said to be buried on the Main Square of Mexico. Near the vase is a jar of clay, surrounded with heads. — Above the same hangs a Picture Writing of modern times (plan). Sh.-C; i6, «Civilisation of Zapotecas* ( Oaxaca): Black and red Pottery (idols, figurines etc); little grinding-stone (metate); 4 copper-coins, found in the farm of Zoritana ( District of Ejutla ). Noteworthy are: The Vessel of clay with idol, wearing upon head the symbolic tiger- and eagle- head feathers etc, about i^ ft. high; the Idol and Tiger-Head of clay, found in Mitla and a good Mask of onyx. — Above this case Picture Writing N^ 16. At the side large jar of earthen ware. Sh'-C; 17, € Collection of Charnay*: Red and painted Pottery ( dishes, kitchen utensils, idols, etc). Note- worthy are the little pitchers like modern milk-pots. — Above this case Picture Writing N° 21. Near en- trance, large thick jar of earthen ware about 3 ft. high, egg-shaped, pointed beneath. In the Barn, at the north from entrance, stands the luxurious *State-Carriage of Maximilian, richly or- namented with gilded Arabesques, angels etc. B. Museum of Natural History, with the Cabinets of Fossils, Anthropology, Zoology and Mineralogy — reached by the eastern stair-case of entrance hall. This museum was started in 1790; it con- tains mostly Mexican specimens, among them some very carious and interesting objects. (See p. 17-48 and 29V p. 228). — The hall-way is decorated with some oil- paintings of notable Mexican priests, six busts of famous naturalists and (at the left from entrance) with a bronze bust of cMaximilianus Imperator>. We enter first the Collection of Minerals and Fossils (Mineralogfa and Paleontologia): First Room: In the show-cases are specimens of minerals (marbles etc). In the center is a plaster-cast of the skeleton of the American Megatherium (Megatherium Cuvieri) from the original in London. At the window are: A Meteor from the Hacienda Cacaiia near Du- rango, a piece of Ore from mine in Catorce (state of San Luis Potosi), chloric-bromide of silver, weigh- ing 1,088 lb; a Meteor from Tiquipilco (Valley of Tc- luca). Second Room (at the left): Fossils, mostly from the Valley of Mexico and of the postertiary period; see p. 124-25. In the first show-case toward the right from entrance are, enclosed in a piece of cal- careous and silicic tuff the teeth and some bones of the , found in 1884 at the northern base of the Penon de los Banos.— In the lower partitions are teeth of mastodons and elephants. In the show-cases of the northern wall are fossils of trees from Dnrango and California and of elephants from the Valley of Mexico. In the show case of the western wall is a gigantic tusk of an elephant from Tequixquiac about 7 ft. long. — In the show-case near entrance are bones of horses, lamas, buffalo etc, from Tequixquiac. In the central show-case; the shell €92 of a giant armadillo from Tequixquiac; above skulls of buffalo, etc. Third Room: In the show-cases are specimens of minerals. At the southern wall stands an Aerolite from Catorce (state of San Luis Potosl) in two pieces, weighing 1,265 1^- — ""^ front of northern wall an Aero- lite from Yanhuitlan (Oaxaca), weighing 936 lb. — in the center stand stalactites from the famous Cave of Cacahuamilpa. Fourth Room: Mammalias (Maraiferos), see p. 39-41. Fifth Room: Birds (Ornitologia, see p. 41-46), some Mammalias and collections of Insects see p. 47. Sixth Room: Anthropology. Two natural mum- mified women and a child from a cemetery of the City, skulls of natives from Teotihuacan, Huejutla etc. Seventh Room: Reptiles, Amphibia and Fish; see p. 46-47. Eighth Room : Mollusca and Sponge?; see p. 47-48. On the opposite side is the embryonic Collection of Botany, Industry and Modern History of Mexico (not yet open to the public; see p. 228). The first rooms contain heavy trunks in Renaissance style — Spanish wea- pons, historical documents — modern, richly ornamented frames — two large oil-paintings: the Franciscan monk and teacher Father Pedro de Gante; the pious Mex- ican poetess Sister Juana Ines de la Cruz — silver- ware and equestrian statue (by J. A. Beance 1865) of Maximilian.— glass-ware of Iturbide. — Specimens of Mexican plants and their applications in industry etc. — 293 In the next suite of rooms are death masks of Pre- sident Juarez and his Secretary Melchor Ocampo (shot l86l), a collection of Mexican medals and orders — chair, standard, gun, scarf etc of the revolutionist Hi- dalgo — portraits of Iturbide, Guerrero, Guadalupe Vic- toria and Santa Ana — chair of Morelos — standard, silver-ware, coat of arms and bath-tub of Mamixiliaa (from Chapultepec) — 6 1 oil paintings of governors and viceroys (like those in the City Hall)— banner with coat of arms of Charles V, — coat of arms of Texcoco — some relics of Cortes (his portrait from 1525, his standard with silk banner, showing picture of the Virgin and his coat of mail) etc. After leaving the National Museum we proceed eastward through «Av. Or. 2». The first cross street is , after the curious Aztec statue found here, which we have just contemplated in the Museum. At the corner of Av. Or. stood the extensive « Palace of Prince Axayacatl> (see p. 199). Here lived Axaya- catl (1469-81), one of the greatest governors of the Aztecs (the grand-child of Moctezuma I. and the fa^er of Moctezuma II,), who ordered the construc- tion of the famous two sacrificial stones (see p. 270 and 277) and died, according to tradition, from over- exertion in sacrificing the lives of prisoners. This palace sheltered afterwards Cortes and his 7,000 followers from his solemn entrance in the City (Nov. 294- 8, 1519) to his hasty flight in the < Dismal Night > of July I, 1520. Here lived with him as prisoner (from Nov. 14, 1519) the weak Prince Moctezuma II., who, compelled by the Spaniards to dissuade his people from the uprising, was wounded on the roof of this palace on June 27, 1520, and two days later coward- ly murdered at the order of Cortes. Here was the site of the first Christian altar in the City and of many horribk crimes, committed by the Spanish € apostles* of Christianity. At the northwestern corner of the next short cross- street, «Ca. Sur A I3>, is the towerless convent- church of Santa Ines, now dedicated to the Sagrado Corazon de Jesus, completed January 2, 1790. It has a large octagonal dome, ornamented with colored tiles. The portal is adorned with Doric and Ionic columns, the doors with carvings. — The projecting, red building on the corner of the opposite side, (in N° 208): its fagade decorated with six reUefs and its portal with Corinthian columns, is the Escuela Nacional de Bellas Artes (see p. 206), which contains the *^ART GALLERY. The Art Gallery was founded by King Charles III., with the collection of plaster-casts (worth $40,000), brought from Europe in 1791 by Prof. Tolsa. In 1846 Prof. Clave begun the organisation of a Picture Gallery, which since 1 86 1 has been enriched by many large and fine paintings of the sequestered churches. ^<$> Laredo, Texas ^o Laredo, Texas. IMPORTERS & JOBBERS OF Hardware, Glassware, Crockery, Wood & Willow-Ware, Stoves, Wagons, Carriages, Buggies, Wagon and Carriage Material, Machinery of all kinds. AGRICULTURAL IMPLEMENTS Etc., Etc. Milling & R. R. Supplies a Specialty. WE SOLICIT CORRESPONDENCE. DIOOERIA ALEMANAI EUGhEISriO FI^EY :o: City of Mexico.— P. O. B. 284— City of Mexico. Chemical-Laboratory. VASELINE-MANUFACTURER. Wholesale & Retail Druggist EXPORTER OF MEXICAN PRODUCTS AS Linaloe Oil, Zacaton, Fibres, Horns. SOAP-MANUFACTURER Importer of American, German, English and French Druggs. LAEGE STOCK of LITOGEAPHIO STONES. PAINTS AND COLORS. Established since 1882. ^^1 German Hat Fa ctory|---^ iury|^=<^^ LUIS H^aELSTEIN. Vergara Street, Nr. 11. First South Street, Nr. 27. POST BOX 763. MEXICO. 295 Mexico is also the cradle of Modern Art in North America. The Spaniards found here, it is true, a cettain development of art, but this was too peculiar and unsympathetic to either imitate or preserve. Cortes and his followers brought many pictures and statues of saints to Mexico in order to introduce the Christian religion and to banish the -Aztec idols. The erection of churches, convents and private chapels created after the Conquest a great necessity for religious pictures and images, which partially was met by importation, partially by monks and missionaries, who copied the most favorite paintings of Spain, Italy and the Netherlands. One of the oldest statues conserved is the bust of Christ in the Capilla de las Reliquias (Cathe- dral), a present of Charles V. The first painter known in Mexico was Rodrigo Cifuentes, who ar- rived here about 1523 and is said to have made se- veral portraits of Cortes. Prof. Pina acquired for the Academy one of the most interesting pictures by this artist, representing Cortes, thanking heaven upon his knees for the Conquest of Mexico. In 1524 the Dutch Franciscan monk Pedro de Gante, founded a monastery school, in which as usual, painting and music were also taught. Here the Indians were instructed in art and with their natural talent and great taste for imitation they made such progress — at least in copying, —that already in the middle of the 16^^ century the conqueror and historian Bernal Diaz could venture to praise the three Aztecs painters Andres de Aquino, Juan de la Cruz and El Cres- PILLO as master artists. Besides these are honorabJjr 29^ mentioned in that century Alonso Vazquez and An- dres de Concha. But only one painting of Vazquez (?) is known to be conserved from this period. The most inflaential architect of these times was probably Alonso Perez Castaneda (Cathedral, Je- sus Nazareno); the most notable civil engineer the Franciscan monk Prancisco Tembleque, the builder of the fine aqueduct of Zempoala (Valley of Mexico). The Seventeenth Century, which produced in Spain the most flourishing period of painting (« School of Sevilla>: Bartolome Murillo), veas also of greatest importance to the development of this art in Mexico. The Church had acquired great riches and was able and ready to spend large sums for the artistic de- coration of its buildings; thus $9,000 and more were paid for a large, good picture. On that account fine artists were incited to send their works (Murillo etc) or to come to Mexico. The first artists, who acquired here importance were at this time *Baltasar Echave (the Elder) and his wife (La Sumaya) from Zumaya in the Spanih province of Guipiizcoa: he painted here from 1600-40 in various styles (Italian, Dutch etc); at last in connection with Vazquez, for the churches of Santiago Tlaltdolco, San Francisco, San Agustin, La Profesa, Santo Domingo and Guadalupe; his wife for the Cathedral. Echave painted with vigor and grace, often in the style of Titian. Several of his finest pictures are preserved. — Less celebrated but also a good artist was his co nteroporary Luis Juarez, who worked in the style of the old Spanish School (soft colors) for the churches San Diego (1610), Santo Do- 297 mingo, Jesus Maria (1621), the College of San Ildefonso etc. There were further, prominent in this century; Sebastian Arteaga, notary of the Inquisition, who painted in the style of the school of Bologne (Ca- racci), with great softness and fine touch, for the convent of San Agustin etc. Jose Juarez, working from 1642-98, for San Diego, La Profesa and San Francisco; excellent in drawing, fine combination of colors, light and shade and noble figures. Ballasar ECHAVE, the Younger, son of the famous Echave, painted more for effect and with less exactness, than his father. The Presbyter Nicolas Rodriguez Juarez a nephew of Jose Juarez painted in 1690 for La Pro- fesa. Juan de Herrera, called , which first imitated the Italian and Dutch and later the good Spanish School. — To prevent the destruction of paintings by the great humidity of this climate most of the pictures of this period are executed on cedar. Since 1648 the representation of 298 the < Mexican Virgin* (Nuestra Seflora de Guadalupe) became a favorite subject, inspired through the publi- cation of the legend by Father Miguel Sanchez. In this century Enrico Martinez created his master- work of engineering, the famous Tajo de Nochistongo (see p. 145), The most influential, although not the greatest artist of the Eighteenth Century was Juan Ro- driguez Juarez (*i676, fjan. 14, 1728) a brother of Father Nicolas and nephew of Jose Juarez, who first worked in the style of the School of Bologne (Caracci) and later i«troduced here a new School, that of Sevilla (Murillo), which was generall/ adopted by all his followers. He painted for the Cathedral, San Agustin, San Francisco and El Carmen in Mexico and for Tepoztitlan and Queretaro and was great in composition and execution, excellent too in combination of colors. *Miguel Cabrera, who painted till about 1764, with a remarkable fertility, is now considered the most gifted master of this period; excellent in tech- nique, but not always correct in designs; especially fine are his heads; his style was always uniform. He became the court-painter of the Archbishop Rubio y Salinas and the favorite of the Jesuits. Works of his are found all over the country (in Mexico in the former University etc. ), His friend Jose Ibarra (*i688, jNov. 22, 1756) competed with him in act. He was a scholar and follower of Juan Correa and was called the < Murillo of Mexico. Ibarra worked for the College of San Ildefoaso etc, his favorite colors were red and blue; his expression is often 299 weakt Among their contemporaries are most note- worthy; Francisco Antonio Vallejo, who worked in 1 761 and 1764 for the College of San Ildefunso (see Escuela Preparatoria), further for La Profesa etc. Crist. It was opened as such solemnly November 4, 1785, and soon exercised a great influence. The Aca- demy demonstrated however at first, that the arts could not flourish as well under the protection of the poor Government, as they did under that of the rich Church. The professors, especially the directors, be- came the leaders in art; but not always to the benefit of the same. Among the first professors of painting, who exer- cised some influence were; Director, Jose Gines de Aguirre from Madrid, who arrived about 1785 and died here about 1 799, he painted the frescoes of the Sagrario. Rafael Jimeno y Planes from Valencia 30I arrived in 1793 and furnished the fine frescoes of the Cathedral and Santa Teresa (destroyed 1845); ^^ imitat- ed A. Mengs, but is weak in composition. The architect and sculptor Director Manuel Tolsa from Valencia, arrived in I79i> created here the magnifi- cent equestrian statue of Charles IV. (1803), built the School of Engineering (1797-1813) and the church of Loreto ( 1 809-16). The architect Director Anto- nio Velazquez, a Spaniard, built the first dome of San- ta Teresa (1813). The .sculptor. Prof. Patifio Ixtolin- QUE was an Indian. The engraver, Prof. Geronimo Antonio Gil, made some very fine medals. At the same time flourished in Mexico the architects Francisco Guerrero y Torres, who built the Hotel Iturbide, National Bank etc; Eduardo Tresguerras from Celaya, ( *May 13, 1765, fAug. 3, 1833), called the Michelangelo of Mexico, built the church Carmen and the bridge in his native town. The wars of independence with its series of < guer- rillas > prepared an early grave for the new « govern- mental art> and therefore the Academy had to sustain from 1810-43 a hard struggle for existence. The tyrannic president Santa Ana gave in 1843 the im- pulse for its restauration and in 1846 begun a New Era of Art in Mexico with the arrival of the sculp- tor Manuel Vilar from Barcelona (f i860), the English engraver D. J. Bagally and the painter Pelegrin Clave from Catalonia. The latter was from 1846- 67 director of the Academy and became the organizer of its Art Gallery and the founder of the so-called < Modern Mexican School*, aa imitation of the 302 Roman School, which has been carried on by most of his scholars with , more striking than agreeable — as shown in the collection of the Art Gallery ( 6tli Room). His best scholars are Jose Salome Pina, Santiago Rebull, Luis MONROY, Jose Obregon, Ramon Sagredo, Rafael Flo- RESJuanMAN'CHOLA,etc. Salome Pina, since 1869 direc- tor of the department of painting, introduced a new School, the modern French and Spanish, permitting his scholars more liberty in the development of their talents and artistic tastes, flis best scholars are Felix Parra, Manuel Ocaranza, Luis Monro y, Gonzalo Carras- co (who has become a Jesuit), Rodrigo Gutierrez (now in an insane asylum), F. Ocadiz etc^The best sculptors of the present are: Juan Islas, who created with his brother Manuel the fine sepulchral monument of Juarez; Miguel Norena, the author of the Monu- mento Hipsografico, the statues of Guerrero, Cuauhte- moc and Juarez; Epitacio Calvo; Gabriel Guerra; Primitivo Miranda etc. The most notable architects of this century are; the Spaniard Lorenzo Hidalgo, from Alava, the author of the new dome of Santa Teresa and the National . Theatre; the brothers Ramon and Juan Ageo; Emilio DoNDE etc. The great works of railroad-engineering of this epoch have been executed by Englishmen and Americans. (See p. 87, 182-186). We begin the Review of the Art Exhibition in A. Picture Gallery: After crossing the courtyard, we ascend the stair-case. Here are in the hall three large oil-paintings by Jose Juarez from the hall of 303 the Convent Francisco: at the right , in the center cThe wonders of at the left «The death of S. Franciscus>. At the end of the staircase we enter a narrow hall, which forms a part of the drawing room cDibujo de la Estampa> and turn to the right; where again at the right we find the entrance to the , by J. Ibarra. *47, Apparition of Virgin and Christ to St. Franciscus, by Echave the Elder, from the altar of Santiago Tialtelolco (1609). 48, Woman of Sa- maria, by J. Ibaria. — *52, Martyrdom of St. Ponciano, by Echave the Elder. 55, Christ and the Adulteress and 58, Christ in the house of Simon, both by J. Ibarra.— *6o, Espousals of Christ and Virgin, by S. Arteaga, Florentine School. 63, The Visitation, by Echave the Elder, from the altar in Santiago Tialte- lolco (1609). 69, Portrait of Cabrera, by himself (?). — *73j Virgin of the Apocalypse by M. Cabrera (1760). 77, Portrait of Juan Rodriguez, by himself.— 81, Convent church of the Bellemitas, by Carlos Villal- pando. 85, Sketch of c Adoration of Magi> (Cathe- dral) by J. Rodriguez; the blue figure at left is his portrait. 88, Eight Pictures out of the life of Christ, by J. Ibarra. 93, Abbot Bernhard by M. Cabrera. *95, (above the door) Burial of Christ by Echave the Younger (1665). Third Room : < European Masters > of various Schools (Sch:), in originals and copies — (Numbers begin at the right from entrance, but are not regularly 30S continued): I, Maria de Austria, second wife of Philip IV., by Carreflo (Span. Sch;).— 3, St. Gregorius the Great, by A. Vaccaro (Neap. Sch:). 6, St. Catalina de Sena, by Guercino (Sch: of Bolo^'ne). 7, St. Hie- ronymus, by G. Ribera-Spagnoletto (Span. Sch:). *9, St. John the Baptist in the desert, by F. Zurbaran (Span. Sch:). *I4, St. Sebastian, by van Dyck? (Dutch Sch:). 16, Mary with child, by Pietro de Cortona? (Roman Sch:). 21, St. Franciscus of Assiai, by Castillo (?). **39, Seven Virtues, by Leonardi da Vinci (Florent. Sch:), painted on wood. **34 8c 45, The Fall of Man, by Michel Angelo ?, parts of a little shrine. 98, St.. Catherine, by Guido (Sch: of Bologne). 104, Portrait of MuriUo, by Velazquez? (Span. Sch:). 64, Adoration of the Magi, in the style of Rubens (Dutch Sch:). 5S> 57> 58 "^ 59j four large pictures in the style of MuriUo: St. Franciscus, St. Anthony, St. Catalina de Sena and Birth of Christ. *6l, Ofcrist Tormented ( at the right young fellow with mocking gest ), style of Ribera-Spagnoletto, —**75, Burial of Christ, unfinished painting by Rubens (Dutch Sch:).-- «7i, Episode of the Flood, by Coghetti ( modern Italian Sch:). 81, Odalisque by Decaisne (modern French Sch:). 90, Allegory of the Fall of Man by Podesti (modern Italian Sch:). *98, St. John the Baptist, by Ingres (modern French Sch:). 95, President Busta- mante, by Podesti. loi, Armenian Priest, by De- caisne. *X ?, St. Hieronymus, by A. Cano (Span. Sch:). Ilia, Portrait of Rubens, by himself (a copy), *lll, St. Isidorus the farmer, by G. Ribera-Spagnoletto. *H7, Christ in Emaus, by Zurbaran (1739).— **i23 St. 306 John of the Lord, by Murillo, repetition of his painting in Sevilla. 125, Dutch Family Scene, by van Dyck (copy). 124, Mary at the tomb, by C. Rivera. FoxJRTH Room (reached through door at the right- west wall) < Landscapes of modern European and Mex- ican artists* —(Numbers begin at left from entrance): I, Interior of the Sacristy in the Convent of San Francisco, by Landesio. 5, Park of Chapultepec, by Coto. 16, Court-yard of old convent, by Velasco. 20, Valley of Mexico, by Landesio. 22, High-way of Chapultepec, by Dumain. 30, Valley of Mexico, by J. Velasco (Mexican). 38, At Lake of Chalco, by L. Portu, X?, Courtyard of the former Hospital Real (Ca. Sur N° 821), by C. Rivera ( modern Span. Sch:). Rock of the Tepeyac (in Guadalupe-Hidalgo), by C. Rivera. 52, Sheep-fold, in style of modern Dutch School. 53, 54, 58 & 59, P'our pictures out of the Life of €hrist, by Marko. 56, Interior of the Church Santa Maria de Toscanella, by Brocca (Ita- lian Sch:). Fifth Room (at the end of the third room) « Various Masters >. (Provisory arrangement opened 1892; contains some very fine pictures of old European Schools. We begin review at the right from entrance): Interesting Fragment of an old picture from Byzantine School. Flight to Egypt ( School of Bologne). — Virgin of the Purisima, by Echave the Elder. Four pictures of Saints, by Pedro de la Rioja (a Spaniard, who lived in Mexico), in style of old Spanish School: St. Catharine, St. Lorenzo, St. Stephan and a Vir- gin. Assumption of Mary, by G6mez de Valencia, 307 in style of Murillo, **Resurrection of Lazarus, by- van Dyck or DUrer? (Dutch Sch:). *Episode of the four places of souls (Limbus), by Bosch? (Dutch Sch:). *Mary with Infant Christ (Dutch Sch:). Two pictures, by A. Cano (Span. Sch;): < Jesus with Mary> and € John the Evangelist*. Female Head in the style of van Dyck. *Two little pictures of School of Bologne; and < Allegory of the World >. •63, Still-life (Dutch Sch:). Two Landscapes, by Cha- tenay (modern French Sch:) etc. Sixth Room, (reached through columns on eastern side of third room. The ceiling is decorated with frescoes: busts of celebrated men). < Modern Mexican Artists* School of Pelegrin Clave — (The numbers begin at the right): 4, Holy Family, by R. Flores. 7, Abraham and Isaac, by S. Pina. 9, Christ and Magdalena, by J. Manchola. 12, Columbus at the Royal Court, after the discovery of America, by J. Cordero. 18, Hagar and Ishmael, by J. Obregon. 15, Sister Juana Ines de la Cruz, the Mexican religious poetess, and *20, Christ in Emaus, both by R. Sagredo. — * 22, St, Charles Borromeo, by S. Pina. — 31, Columbus as a youth, by J. Obregon. 32, The painter Cordero, by M. Mata. *9I, Queen Isabel of. Portugal and her daughter Isabel the Catholic, by P. Clave. 42, Hagar and Ishmael, by S. Pina. Seventh Room. (At the western end of the for- mer room. Ceiling with frescoes; busts of benefactors and professors of the Academy, painted by its scholars). < Modern Mexican Artists* continued; School of Salome Pina: Numbers begin at the right). 3o8 1, Roman Charity, by L. Monroy. 4, St. Luis Gon- zaga during the pest in Rome, by G. Carrasco. 6, Cortes before Moctezuma, by J. Ortega. 7, Aban- doned Ariadne and 12, In the Senate of Tlaxcala (1519), both by R, Gutierrez; the latter unfinished.— *I4, Brother Bartolome de las Casas, as protector of the Indians, by F. Parra.— 15, Xochitl and her father Papantzin, presenting the Toltec Prince Tec- pancaltzin with a new drink of « pulque >, by J. Obregon. *l 7, Galilei, by F. Parra. *I9, St.Job, by G, Carras- co. 21, At the Conquest (Cholula), by F. Parra. 23, Margaret repenting and 28, King Yugurta, conquered by Marius, both by F. Ocadiz. Eighth Room. (At the northern end from en- trance hall). < Engravings* ( Galerfa de Grabado en lamina). It contains on the walls a collection of works by European masters (Dupont) etc and in the show-cases by Mexican engravers, as Luis Campo etc. There are further engravings by Rembrandt, Diirer etc. Ninth Room, c Medals > (Galerfa de Grabados en hueco): The best medals exhibited are those by Prof. A. Gil. The Library (Salon de Actos), which occupies the large front-saloon, contains too, some fine pictures. At the left from entrance is «The Martyrdom of San Lorenzo >, by the Mexican Jose Juarez; above the door < Destruction of Jerusalem >, by the Italian Sil- vagni; 92, < Olympic plays >, by the French Charles Vernet. In the background: dmmaculate Conception*, by the Spaniard J. Aguilera (1720). Among the fur- 309 niture of the Library is an old elegant arm-chair from 1523, with the coat of arms of the City of Ve- racruz, once property of Cortes. —We now descend the stairs and turn to the left, where the first door leads through the class-room of drawing to B. Sculpture Gallery: It contains in eight rooms the collection of plaster casts from the famous works of sculpture of Greeks, Romans etc, (sent by Charles III.) and some by Mexican artists, together with a few statues of marble by the same. First Room (decorated with the busts of the pro- tectors and professors of the Academy in plaster): In the center N° 26, Aztec Warrior with the , by M. Vilar; too much the Roman gladiator I We enter through the eastern portal into the Second Room: At the right, N° 18, Burial of Christ, relief, by F. Sojo. N° 15, Peace, relief by So- riano. Plaster cast of the bronze relief, < Torture of prince Cuauhtemoc and the chief of Tacuba>, from statue of Cuauhtemoc, Paseo de la Reforma, by M. Noreiia.— II, tCarlos Borromeo*, and X ? Columbus, both by Vilar. Third Room: 43, Marina or Malinche, the Aztec mistress and interpretress of Cortes; 4.1, Santa Ana; 42, Moctezuraa II.; 40, Calvary; 38, Virgin; 39 St. Joaquin; 37, Emperor Iturbide: all by Vilar — 32 Play- ing with Amor, by G. Guerra.— In the center: A Lesson to Amor, by M. Noreiia; Genius of Fishery and Genius of Chase, by P. Tenerani. Returning to the first room we pass through the northern portal into the 3JO FoORTH Room, which contains the same busts of professors and protectors of the Academy as Room I, in marble, executed by its scholars. Fifth Room: 6, Bust of the Virgin by Calvo.— Bust of Justice by G. Guerra. 2, St. Sebastian, by Th. Valero.— 28, David, by Th. Perez. X?, Faun, by Tenerani. 24., Gladiator, by Labastida. 23, Two Orphans, by F. Dumaine. 22, Ariadne, by Pradier. 21, Psyche, by Tenerani. 20, Gladiator, by Labas- tida. Sixth, Seventh and Eighth Room; Plaster- casts of classic sculptures. Proceeding further east in A v. Or. 2, which from here is much narrower, we reach < Ca. Sur 13*, where we per- ceive at the north the little tower of < Santa Teresa la Nueva> and the fine and lofty dome of and in the south the large octagonal dome and small tower of the former Royal convent church of JesttS Maria, (at the corner of A v. Or. 4), in front enclosed by a high iron railing. The fagade is decorated in a pseudo - classic Doric-Roman style. The convent was founded in 1578 by the Spaniards Pedro T. Denia and Gregorio de Pesquera for female descen- dants of the Conquerors under the rules of the Fran- ciscan nuns by the Concepcionistas and in 1532 removed to the present place. Here lived mysteriously a young daughter of Philip II. and sister of the Arch- bishop Pedro de Contreras, under the name of Mi- caela de loa Angeles, who was surrounded by all the ^^'^^' TT^S AMERICAN MONEY EXCHANGE. The Highest Prices payed. Mexico — I* de San Francisco, N"^ i3, — Mexico ( near to Hotel Iturbide ). Cable Office P. 0. B. SCHEIBE, Mexico.-^ San Juan de Lelran N^ lo. '- 844. GrUSTAJVO SCHEIBE BROKER Export of Mexican Produces in General. Representative of European & American Factories. Peptona Pepsine Wine. Premium in the Exposition of Paris 1889. Pills of Peptona and Iron and of Peptona and Quinine. Prepared by Aurelio Hurtado de Mendoza y Zarate, Depot: Drugstore of Labadie & Co. Sues. Price of the wine: $1.25, pills $0.50 a box For sale in all drugstores. ALBEETO AKELLANO Y MILAN. §| Anonymous Society ^ Rinconada de S. Diego, Plaza de Zaragoza Num. 11 and 12. MEXICO, TOLUCA. PALE-ALE. LAaER-BEER [^ General Depot .^ Einconada de San Diego, N- 11 y 12. Telephone, N°. 229, MEXI€0. Cervecera de Toluca y Mexico. -^1^ Sociedad Anmima ^o Rinconada de S. Diego, Plaza de Zaragoza Nums. 11 y 12. MEXICO. TOLUCA. PALE-ALE. LAGER-BIER. Deposito General: Kinconada de San Diego, N- 11 y 12. TeHfono, N^ 229. MEXICO. 311 royal comforts and here lost her mind. The existing church was begun March 9, 1597 and dedicated Fe- bruary 7, 1 62 1. The convent was suppressed Fe- bruary 13, 1861 and sold for dwellings. The in- terior of the church is a basilica with Roman vault. In the apse are two large oil-paintings by Jimexo: cThe Guarding Angeh (left) and « Virgin with the In- fant Christ and St. Cayetan > (right) and ( in back- ground ) a fresco by Cordero : « Clwrist in the Temple J. In the Sacristy is- at the right another painting by Jimeno (1809): < Christ in the Temple*. The next crossing of Av. Or. 2, is cCa. Sur 151, at the northeast corner of which stands the pictur- esque ex-college church of *La Santisima (Trinidad), in the style of late Renaissance (churrigueresco), built from 1724-47 at expense of the rector of the adja- cent college, Jose A. Narvaez. The pretty fagade and the neat little tower are richly ornamented; the former with pillars, busts, statues, relief etc. The statues represent the patriarchs of the Church, ihe busts the apostles, the relief, the Holy Trinity. The octa- gonal dome is adorned with colored tiles. The in- terior, forming a Latin cross, was renovated from 1855- 58. From here stated formerly the great procession of Maundy Thursday. — In the south the view of Ca. Sur 15, is limited by the central portal of the market hall cLa Merced >. From here cAv. Or. 2j> becomes poorer in build- ings. Passing « Ca. Sur C. 23 >, we notice the large parish of < La Soledad> to which we will later return. Behind the church, at the corner of 312 Ca. Sur 23, and Av. Or. 2, is the Depot of the In- teroceanic R. R., a simple, large brick-building (see p. 205). The eastern part ol «Av. Or. 2» is formed by magazines and manufactories and opens finely on a large square, the former tPlazuela de San Lazaro*. Somewhat toward the north of the same, in Ca. Sur 25 N^ 4, stands in a large yard the ruin of the old hospital church of San Lazaro (dedicated May, 1728; now transformed into a ware-house by the « Mexican Packing Co. >). It ocoupies the site of the fortified naval arsenal or docks, called «Las Atarazanas>, where Cortes housed his famous (see p. 203). Here was then the boundary of the City and the shore of lake Texcoco (which is now about 2^ miles farther east ). A few canals with dirty water still recall the Mexican Venice. At the end of , and enter the curious Southeastern Quarters. Here was the Aztec Quarter of Zoquiapan and after the Con- quest the first settlement of the Spaniards. It is still pierced by several canals and here prevails the life of the Spanish Colonial City, which, in respect to dirt and poverty, is a reminder of Oriental towns. A score of years ago we scarcely dared to venture here, but now no danger is anticipated — however, persons with delicate olfactory organs and tender nerves may expect many hard trials. The low and miserable tenement- houses of these quarters, called vecindades, are the asylums of poverty and crime. This is the home of porters, certain artisans ( tallow-chandlers, carpenters etc), water-carriers, washer-women, rag-pickers, beg- gars (leperos and leperillos) and thieves (iadrones and rateros) — the real « Mexican Greasers*. Their dark and damp dwellings are scantily furnished with mats and stools of reeds, dishes and stoves of earthen-ware. Their bodies are covered with dirty rags and vermin. Their favorite food is < tortillas > and « pulque > — their principal occupation: looking out for sun -shine — their ideal, a year with 366 church -festivals. We therefore find here numerous churches and chapels, pulquerias, < maicerias >, «tortillerfas5 (corn-bread- 314 bakeries) and cfigoness (Mexican restaurants). The streets are mostly narrow and crooked lanes, without sidewalks or paving, lighted at night by a coal-oil lamp, suspended on a wire above them— a dirty ditch as sewer running through the middle. The parish of La Soledad de Santa Cruz, which stands Ca. Sur C. 23, at the end of Av. Or. 4 is one of the oldest churches in this quarter. It is crowned by a stately octagonal dome and two round towers. The fagade is ornamented with five crude, colored statues. The existing building was dedicated October 29, 1 73 1 and renovated 1793. The interior has three aisles; at the first altar of the left nave is since 18S3 the venerated picture of , by M. Cabrera, which from 1757-1861 de- corated a corner of the former cCalle del Refugio > (in Av, Or. 6). In the choir above the entrance and in front of the main altar are some large oil paintings of Mexican artists. In the tabernacle stands a quaint figure of cNuestra Seuora de la Soledad >. The great festivals of this church are Friday before Palm-Sunday, Holy Friday and June 4. The crooked , surrounded by one-story houses with gaily colored cpulquerfasj, provided with a simple square fountain and a green badly smelling ditch. At its southern end commences cCa. Sur B. 23*, through which we wander till we reach «Av. Or. 8>. This long avenue begins here as a narrow, dirty lane with Proceeding westwards we cross 315 Ca, Sur A. 23, in which we see the liule church of ?La Palmar. Opposite Ca. Sur 21, stands projecting into the street the ruin of the old and curious chapel of Manzanares, gaily painted and decorated with stucco. In front of it is a fountain, always besieged by water-carriers. From here the street becomes broader and better in buildings. Crossing Ca. Sur 17, we pass over the dirty Canal de la Viga, which here penetrates the City. In the early morning hours it is enlivened by boats, laden with flowersi vegetables and fruits, received by the market people, who supply themselves with marketing. On both sides of the canal are groups of Indian vendors. Near the canal in Av. Or, 8, between Ca. Sur 13 -nd 17 is the *Plaza de la Merced, actually the most interesting and frequented market ol the City, oc- cupying a part of the former monastery and church ^Nuestra Senora de la Merced* of the Brothers of Mercy. This monastery was begun in 1602, the church in 163-}., both were finished in 1 785 and sequestered in December i860. In 1863 the convent was partially transformed into a market, which in 1880 was en- closed by an iron hall and 1 888-89 enlarged by a part of the church- grounds. The irrterior of the market is, in modern style, divided in rows of boxes, each one forming a stand; but around the hall many Indian vendors still have their goods exhibited in old Aztec fashion, in piles, on a straw-mat. There is daily mar- ket from 6j a. m. to 4 p. m. the greatest day how- ever is Saturday. (See p. 187). The large but modest building on the ether side 316 of Av. Or. 8, N' 1326, corner of Ca. Sur 15, comprises the Foundling Asylum, called La Cuna (the cradle), founded by Archbishop Lorenzana, January 21, 1 766, since 1772 "in the present place, sheltering now on an average about 200 foundlings. It is said, that Lorenzana in 1765, during a walk through the north- ern quarters, noticed on a pile of debris a new born child, still with signs of life, eaten by hungry dogs — a young girl of the best family had hidden this poor creature the there previous night in order to conceal her secret amours. This incident inspired the priest to the establishment of this asylum. Crossing the market-hall toward the south we find the narrow «Ca. Sur 15 », through which we continue our ramble. In Av. Or. 10, we perceive in the west the yellow tile-tower of the convent church of Nuestra Senora de Balvanera (corner of Ca, Sur II), built for the Concepcionistas in 1667-71. In Av. Or. 12, is seen the tower of the interesting hospital church of « Jesus Nazareno> (to which we will soon return) and in «Av. Or. 14*, appears the little tower and the tiled dome of the former convent-church of San Jos6 de Gracia, built from 1659-Ci now con- verted into barracks, like the adjacent convent. Pass- ing through the rows of booths with second-hand goods into the small, dirty square of La Aguilita, we are in «Av. Or. 16 >, the eastern end of which is ter- minated by the curious little church of Santo Tomas de La Palma erected about 1773 on the square of Santo Tomas, with a tiny tower and an angular 317 dome. It possesses a pretty altar and some good oil-paintings. Continuing southward in cCa. Sur 15 > we are at the corner of Av. Or. 1 8, in front ot the large Parroquia (parish) de San Pablo, founded by the Franciscan monk Pedro de Gante for the Indians, since 1581 established in the present place and rebuilt at the end of the last century. The fagade has Ionic columns with frieze and gable. Two insignifi- cant towers and a high round dome rise above the building. The interior, decorated v/ith poor pictures and statues, forms a Latin cross. — Behind the church was formerly the large bullfight-ring (plaza) of San Pablo. West from the parish (in Ca. Sur A. 13), stand the remains of the large chapel and adjoining, (in Av. Or. 20 N^ 1 125 & 1 1 35), the College of San Pablo, founded by the Augustinians in 1575. It serv^ed from the beginning of this century as bar- racks, was converted in August 184.7, after the battle of Padierna (see p. 1 72), into a military and later into a Municipal hospital. In 1 86 1 it was much en>larged and received afterwards the name of Hospital Juarez (see p. 213). The green place north from the same, the Plazuela de San Pablo, was once occupied by the Temple of Ayaucultitlan. — In the next block northeast of this square, in the former monastery of the Camilists, has been since 1S61 the Seminario Conci- liar (Theological Seminary, see p. 247), Av. Or. 6, N^ 907. Returning again to sCa. Sur 15* and proceeding farther south, we are soon at the beginning of the 3i8 old and interesting Calzada or **Paseo de la Viga (begun in 1 785). It borders for about | of a mile the western bank of the muddy « Canal de la Viga> or de Xochimilco, which connects the Lake of Xochimilco with that of Texcoco and has an entire length of about 12^ miles. The promenade is lined by double rows of willows, provided with two squares, some benches and a statue and permits a view over the beautiful moun- tain-panorama with the white crowns of Ixtacclhuatl and Popocatepetl. Life on and around this canal is as peculiar and picturesque as that on the « Canal Grande > of Venice and has often inspired the poet's song. Unfortunately it has lost much of its former attraction during the last decade. In' the morning hours a little vegetable market is improvised at the banks and on the canal flourishes a large traflic by boats, which carry flowers and vegetables from the < Floating Gardens > or wood from the forests of the near mountains. The boats in use are either a kind of flat-bottomed ferry (canoa), about 18-22 ft, long and 5-6 ft. broad or small and narrow boats (chalupa), about 15-18 ft. long and 1.I-2 ft. broad which are propelled by a pole, operated in the bow by an Injdian.— The « canoas > are also used for the passage of persons • and are then distinguished by gay colors, the awning at the center, the loose curtains at the sides and the mats and benches of the interior. Especially frequented are these Mexican « gondolas > during Lent: above all at the old Aztec **«Flower-festival> (Friday before Palm-Sunday, from 5- 1 2 a. m.). At this time the promenade is enlivened by booths, carriages, street- 319 cars, riders and pedestrians: the canal by boats adorned, with fragrant flowers and vegetables and filled with joyous people. The neighboring Indian villages are transformed into tivolis, fair- and picnic-grounds. Mid-way stands in a wide circle of the promenade, opposite the bridge to the suburb of Jamaica, the in- significant Monument of Cuauhtemoc, the last Az- tec Governor of Mexico. A pedestal with dedica- tion in the Spanish and Aztec languages bears the marble bust of the heroe (unveiled August 13, 1869). — The little street on the other side of the canal, at the right from the bridge, is called cPuente de Ja- maica*, here is in N° 38, the small but interesting Mnseo Corona (see p. 229). The southern extremi- ty of the promenade is occupied by a custom-house, the Garita Iglesias, always besieged by boats with wood and vegetables. The road continues beyond the bridge along the canal to the « Floating Gardens k and the Indian villages of Sanla Anita, Ixtacalco, etc. The western road, the continuation of the Aztec cause- way to Ixtapalapam takes us by swampy meadows to the Calzada^de San Antonio Abad (continuation of Ca. Sur 7), in front of the Garita Zaragoza. Here at the cross road of the southern causeway (lead- ing east to Ixtapalapam and west to Coyoacan) stood the TociTlTLAN (or Cihuateocalli), a pyramidal temple of the goddess Toci, where Cortes was received by Moc- tezuma and the nobility upon his entrance into the City: November 8, 15 19. Moctezuma richly adorned with green feathers and jev/els, descended from his litter to receive Cortes, who left his horse in order 320 lo embrace the Aztec prince, but his suite prevented this, as Moctezuma was a sacred character. The sly 'Cortes in remembrance of the Latin proverb «do ut des>, thereupon encireled the neck of leads now the Highway (with the R. R.) to Tlalpam and over the picturesque mountain range of the < Sierra de Ajusco* to Cuernavaca. Returning northwards to the City, we find near the same the dirty lane of Av. Or. B. 28, which leads eastward to the unpaved of the small parish ^''^ Santa Cruz Acatlan, built soon after the Conquest. It stands behind a high wall, has a neat little tower and is painted blue ! The interior is de- corated with very crude statues and four good, large oil-paintings. On the eastern wall: c Cortes before the corpse of one of his captains*, near ^the main- altar < Cortes with Indian chieftains at the mass in Mexico*, by Jose Vibana y Baldeccama; on the western wall, near the main altar: c Baptism of an Indian chieftain* by the same and near the entrance cAparition of the Virgin of Guadalupe*. In the atrium before this church the ''benediction of animals takes place from January 17, to February 28, since the church of San Antonio Abad was sequestered. This is one of the most peculiar performances of 321 the Catholic church, a real parody on religion, in which the priests sell blessings from improvised booths to more or less drunken men and their beautified domestic animals, as dogs, sheep, cats, parrots etc. In the church old women sell and c blessed* ornaments for animals. On the cplazuelaj' are booths and stands, for the sale of Lenten biscuits, «cascarones> (egg-shells), « pulque* and cmole de pa- titos3> (ducks, stewed in red pepper sauce), served by low women. This is the carnival of the common people in Mexico, which generally ter.ninates in wild orgies. A little northwest of this .church, in Ca. Sur 7, N° 2628 & 2638 an insignificant white tower still indi- cates the former monastery-church of San Antonio Abad, built about 1628 by the Augustinians, on the site of the Aztec Temple of Xoloc (Xoluco ?), which, fortified during the Conquest, was taken by the Spaniards May 31, 1525, together with the temple of Toci. The Aztecs tried in vain for seven days to regain the place, but had to give it up after many hard fights. Cortes made this temple the central point of his military operations during the siege and undertook from here several expeditions against the City. Between this temple and the City was a broad canal with an important Aztec draw-bridge, about 7 or 8 yards wide, made of strong beams. Continuing northwards through Ca, Sur 7, we no- tice first in Av. Or. 24 (westside) the little chapel of Tlascuac and soon reach the Plaza de San Lucas >. On the southside of the same Av, Or. 24, N'^ 717 & 905 322 is the Municipal slaughter-house, the Rastro, where on an average 280 cattle and 380 mutton are daily killed. The northside (N<^ 712) is occupied by the small MARKET-HALL of San Lucas, the east side by the old chapel of San Liicas (renovated 1692), built by the butchers. Adjoining it, in Ca. Sur A. 9, N" 2200, is the Hospital iMilitar, established in the for- mer House of Refuge, Casa de Recogidas (foun- ded 1698). At the corner of we turn westward to «Ca. Sur B. 7>, in which we find the parish of San Miguel with its tv/o Moorish towers, and large tiled dome of octagonal form and its doors with crude carvings in wood. It was built from 1690- 17 14 and renovated in 1850. The 1 8*1" of October the butchers hold here a solemn service, as St. Mi- chael is their patron saint. Leaving the church, we go to the northern end of the street and continue westwards in «Av. Or. l8>, to the large convent church San Gerdnimo. Its portal is adorned with Ionic columns and a quaint figure of St. Hieronymus; the little tower is conspi- cuously painted in light blue; the flat dome has a high lantern. The adjoining building (N^ 315) was formerly the convent, one of the largest in the City; founded in 1586 by the cConcepcionistasj under the rule of the Augustinians; sequestered in 186 1. Here, the Mexican poetess. Sister Juana Ines de la Cruz (born Nov. 12, 1651, in Nepantla), took the veil in 1669 and died April 17, 1695. Another famous nun of this convent was the Indian « prophetess* Maiiana, 323 who delighted the credulous at the end of the last century with her predictions of the future ! ! The next cross-street, Ca. Sur 3, takes us south- ward to sAv. Or. 20 >. Near the south-eastern corner of this avenue stands the little old priorate church (of the Benedictines of Monserrate built for the ado- ration of Nuestra Senora of Monserrate (Catalonia) and dedicated 1590. The convent was suppressed January 29, 1 82 1. The Spanish colony celebrates annually in this church on September 8, a solemn mass. terminates in the west (on the south- side) with the curious little parish of the Salto del Agua (begun in March 19, 1750), which contains a statue of Christ in raascarade with silk pants and short red mantle. Opposite the same at the begin- ning of the Southwest Quarter is the grotesque fountain, called El Salto del Agua, from which the church has taken its name. Here ended the arched aqueduct from Chapultepec (see p. 170). The fountain is quaintly ornamented in Roccocco style with vases, fish, genii, heads of monsters, columns in form of snakes, coat of arms etc. The inscriptions record that the aqueduct was built on the site of the old Aztec water-works and completed March 20, 1 779; the greatest part of the arches has been torn down since 1SS6. North from the church and fountain extends the large old Plazuela del Tecpan D£ San Juan. The building with the arcades in front was formerly the court-house or Tecpam of the Indian quarter of «:San Juan de Tenochtitlan* like the other of Santiago 324- rialtelolco established after the Conquest and sup- pressed after the Independence. In front of the same was till 1850 a market. We are herein cCalle Surs, which leads southwards to the Garita Ocarapo.- Walking northwards over the square we notice in , a large red prison-like building of porous amygdaloid, the Cole- gio de las Vizcaynas or de San Ignacio, founded as a day- and boarding-school for girls, by three rich Spaniards of the order of the Vizcainos who, in an afternoon walk in 1732 noticed that around this place existed many dirty and neglected children but no school. The college built, 1734-67 at a cost of $600,000, oc- cupies a whole block. West of the college extends «Av. Or. 16 >. Here is, at the corner of Ca. Sur I, the interesting con- vent church of *Regina Coeli, dedicated September 13, 1 73 1, crowned with a neat octagonal tower and dome, decorated in front with Corinthian columns and carved doors. The interior is richly ornamented in Renaissance style and contains some good oil paintings and many ugly statues. Especially venerated here are a statue of and a picture of cNuestra Seilora de la Fuente>, by Iearra. The adjacent convent (N° 129 & 141) was founded 1533 by the Concepcionistas, renovated from 1655-56, se- questred 1863. It is now transformed into the Hos- pital CONCEPCION Beistegui, the best of the City (see p. 213). In the third block of this street, in N° 350 is the popular Teatro Hidalgo (see 217). Proceeding two blocks farther northwards in Ca. 325 Sur, we are in , where in the east (N° 129) an old octagonal tower and a niche call our attention to the remains of the monastery church of San Felipe Neri, now converted into dwellings. Adjoining the same (N° 145) is Teatro Arbeu, which occupies the former oratory of the monastery (see p. 217). The next block on the northern side, corner Ca. Sur 3, encloses the **Biblioteca Nacional (see p. 229), one of the finest buildings in Mexico, which by its stately dome with colored tiles still reveals its pious origin. It was formerly the elegant monastery church of San Agustin, built by the Augustinians (on the site of their first church, whioh erected Aug. 28, 1541, was destroyed by fire Dec. 11, 1676) from 1677-92 (dedicated Dec. 14). The interior formed a Latin cross with three aisles. Two rows of eig>it high, fluted pilasters carry a broad rich cornice and the Roman vault. Between the pillars are seven low arches, formerly occupied by chapels. It possessed many fine pictures and in the choir excellent carved stalls with 254 representations of the Bible, worth $240,000. Especially venerated here was a crucifix «Cristo de Totolapam*. The first martyrs of independence, the brothers Avila (executed 1566) were buried in this church. During the many revolutions the building was often used as stronghold (1844 etc) and it became the seat of conspiration against Santa Ana. The convent was suppressed December i860 and February l86l. In the latter year the church was dismantled and the costly choir sold for 83,000 out of the 325 country. The little old chapel with octagonal dome at its western sides belonged to the Tercer Orden (Tertiary Order of the Iranciscans) in which the Na- tional library was first established in 1867, till it could occupy the renovated church of St. Augustin. The front of the library is in A v. Or. lo; the west and north sides are surrounded by a little garden, enclosed by iron railing with stone posts, which support twenty busts of Mexican celebrities. The exterior as well as the interior is of magnificent proportions and makes an imposing and dignified impression. The noble gray faijade of sand-stone consists of two and three stories, ornamented with pillars, half-columns, caryatides, vases and Arabesques. At each side of the portal are below, two Ionic half columns, above, bordering the fine relief of St. Augustin, two little spiral columns and in the third part on each side two caryatides of women. The center of the western wall contains a niche with the statue of Minerva. A wrought-iron gate opens into the vestibule paved with various kinds of marble and adorned with two rows of fiye Ionic columns each, which carry the groined vault of the former choir. The large central nave has been transformed into the reading-hall; the side chapels are occupied by the book-cases. On the balustrade of the high choir stands a fine colossal statue of c Flying Time> upon a black sphere with the clock. Below at both sides of the entrance are two large reliefs «en medallion »: President Juarez and Secretary Castro. Opposite the same on the balcony before the window of the angular apse are the arms of the @|.; ^m^m^ & Umkm Large factory of Piano«fortes. ZuLETA 14. — City c-f Mexico. — Zuleta 14, Greatest assortment of Piano- fortes anil Accordions from the best factories of the world; from $ 500 to § 1,800. MUSICAL INSTRUMENTS, SHEET MUSIC ETC., ETC. GREAT MUSICAL REPERTOIRE . ColiseoViejol5 [MexrcoJ ColiseoViejolS AVARRANTED SALES at very moderate prices and on favorable conditions. F^I^NOS FOI^ RENT, Eepairing and tuning done, G. Loiise y Co. Sucesores. Calle de la Palma, Numerous 9, 10 & 11. CITY OF MEXICO GENERAL HARDWARE STORE. Tools & instruments for engineers, miners, artesans and agricultural purposes. — Pumps, iron pipe and fittings. Objects for photographers & telegraphers. Electrical articles. Travellers trunks - d br^ ,. Rubber coats and shoes. Campbeds. Kitchen furniture. Lamps & candlesticks. Brass bedsteads. Lather ware, fancy goods and toys. Printers implements, as hand and foot presses, types, type cases, ink etc., etc. Calle del Refugio N^ 8. Sole Agency of the New-Home Sev^ing and the New National Hand Sewing Machine. Vienna bent .wood furniture. Picture frames and mouldings. General Agents of the ''Boyal Insurance Company" of Liverpool, London and New -York. 327 Republic, well modelled in plaster. In front of the walls stand upon high pedestals sixteen colossal statues of world-famed scientists. In the modest three-story house diagonal to the library, Av. Or. lo, N^ 312, lived during his sojourn in the City, in 1803, Baron Alexander von Hum- boldt. The German colony placed September 14, 1869, a memorial tablet on the wall of this house. At the corner of Ca. Sur 5, we go one block southwards to , and turn then eastward to the interesting hospital church of *Jesus Nazare- no, the second built in Mexico, founded by Cortes. It stands on the site of the Aztec Temple of Huit- ziLAN (or Iluitznahuac), which fortified during the Conquest was stormed on the morning of June 9, 15 21. In front of the temple was a broad canal. The present church was begun in 1575, finished 1668 after the plans of Alonso Perez y Castaneda. It stands behind a high wall, has a simple fagade and square tower. The interior forms a Latin cross with cylindrical arch. The main altar contains a pretty tabernacle with a litte figure of the Immaculate Conception, to which the church was dedicated, presented by Cortes. At the right of this altar Cortes found his fourth burial place. After his death (Dec. 2, 1547) in Castilleja de la Cuesta (near Sevilla), his body was buried in the chapel of the Dukes of Medina Sidonia and according to his will after tea years transferred to Mexico. Cortes wished to rest here in the convent of Coyoacan, which he intented to build; bufc as this was not done his bones 3^8 were for the second time deposited in the church of San Francisco in Texcoco. After the death of his grandson Pedro they were removed with great pomp on February 24, 1629 to the church of San Francisco in Mexico and again on Juli 2, 1794 to Jesus Naza- reno, where the architect J. del Mazo and the sculp- tor M. Tolsa had prepared a magnificent tomb. At the celebrationof independence on September 16, 1823 the people threatened to burn and destroy the remains. To save them from this auto de fe they were secret- ly removed by the historian Lucas Alaman the night before and hidden till they could be sent to Palermo (Italy), where they were received in the vaults of the Duke of Terranova, one of the descendants of Cortes. — The central altar of the southern wall con- tains since 1884 the miraculous-working figure the patroness of suspected wifes. In the northern transept is an altar dedicated to « Jesus STazareno*, an old, venerated picture from the house-altar of the Indian Petronila, at the left side of the same is the tomb of the philologist Father Juan Najera, at the right that of the historian Lucas Ala- man. In the southern transept, at the right from the altar, is the tomb of the sculptor, M. Vilar (jNov. 25, i860 — see p. 301). The adjoining *sacristy is noteworthy for its artistically carved ceiling of cedar, (with ro- settes), an old Spanish pictuie of the «Purfsin3a> (at the left) and a large round table (about 2h yards in diameter and 3 inches thick) made out of one piece of cedar. The church was renovated in 1835. The old sacristan of this church is a very industrious 329 alms-taker and standing at the entrance gate with his salver, his grinding voice enlivens the whole street. The long old bullring at the eastern side of this church in «Ca. Sur 7>, N" 1223 is the Hospital de Jesus, the first established in Mexico, already mentioned in 1524, completed in 1535 according to the plans of Pedro Vazquez. At this place burst in i486 the fatal aqueduct from Acuecuexco ( near Coyoacan), built by prince Ahuitzotl, which caused the inundation of the City and the death of its author. The hospi- tal possesses fine cloisters and the best oil painting of Cortes. The large red building of porous amygdaloid on the northeastern corner of «Ca. Sur 7>, ( N° 1022) with the phantastic ornamentation of cannon for water- spouts, the portal bordered by half columns, the heavy wooden doors with carvings and metal knocker, is still known after its first proprietor and called Casa del Conde de Santiago. In the center is a large courtyard with fine cloisters and a quaint fountain. On the out-side corner of the wall is fastened a snake- head (adorned with feathers and claws) of black ba- salt (2.46 ft high, 4.32 ft. broad) from the snake- wall before main temple. — The opposite corner ( N^ 1027) was formerly occupied by the Mercado de. Jesus; which made way for the « Hotel Humboldt >. The avenue following next at the north is «Av. Or. 10 ». Its two eastern blocks were formerly called Calle Don Juan Manuel, after the extravagant fa- vorite of the Viceroy Armendariz, Juan M. de Solor- zano, who from 1623-30 played an important part 330 in Mexican politics, was secretly hanged in October 1 641 and afterwards reappeared in blood and thunder stories and dramas as a kind of Mexican or « Faust >. Some old fashioned Mexican buildings heighten the romantic charm of this street, as the house N° 520, with its long water-spouts of cannon, its frieze with drums and its curious tower of colored tiles. — In the little cross-street Ca. Sur A. 7. is the station of the street-cars of the FerrocaRRILES del Yalle (see p. 206). The lively «Av. Or. 8> leads eastward to the popular market of . Proceeding northwards we return to the Main Square in order to ramble westwards through the fashionable AvENiDA de Plateros and San Fran- cisco, now *Avenida Oriente 4, (in the former Aztec quarter of Moyotla). This avenue is the most elegant and favorite shopping street and promenade of the City, where costly diamonds sparkle and artistic fancy 331 goods fascinate the eye, it leads to the charming toward heaven. Most of the buildings in this street are still rather unsightly old- fashioned Mexican houses, with a row of dark little stores on the ground-floor and shabby balconies in the upper ones. Especially represented here are jew- elry-, books, art and curiosity-, fancy- and dry -goods, drug- and hardware-stores, further the finest restau- rants, confectiouaries and hotels, photograph establish- ments, money- exchanges etc. Through this avenue Iturbide entered the City September 27, 182 1 , and passed on July 21, 1822 to his coronation. On Feb- ruary 26, 1847 it was the scene of the tRevolucion de los poIcos>. In August of the same year General Scott passed through it with the victorious army and on January I, 1861 General Gonzalez Ortega with 25,000 soldiers. The first two blocks were known since about I 733 as i» & 2* Calle de Plateros (after the gold- smiths). At the southeast corner of the latter a fine marble house is in erection. At the northwest corner 332 of the third block, formerly called CXLLE de la Profesa, stands the elegant monaster}' church of the Jesuits, *La Profesa, dedicated August 28, 1 720. The fagade, looking toward Ca, Sur 3, has two dwarfy towers; the portal is adorned with Corinthian columns, Arabesques, sta- tues and a relief. The roof is crowned with an oc- tagonal dome. The interior is divided by two rows of four pilasters with gilded capitals and bases into three naves, supporting the Roman vault. The interior makes with the gray and gold colors a very noble appearance. Above the main entrance is the choir, opposite the same is the beautiful main altar by M. Tolsa. The dome is decorated with eight good frescoes by P, Clave (and his best scholars), representing the seven sa- craments and the adoration of the cross. This is the most fashio nable chvrch and exclusively the temple of the rich, especially frequented during the Holy Week; on Maundy Thursday it is decorated with a costly cmonumento*. — The Jesuits, which appeared here in 1592 were expelled in 1 767, with them the historian F. Clavijero. In 1771 the government gave the church to the brotherhood of San Felipe Neri and dedicated it to San Jose el Real. The monastery, one of the largest in the City, was partially destroyed during the revolution of 1859-61 and had to make way for the (Av. Or. 2). —In the next block south of Ca. Sur 3, N° 442 is the c Hotel del Bazars, in which June 17, 1854, (3 o'clock) died at the age of 49 years the famous Germr-ii singer Henriette Soxtag of cholera. She was first buried in the cemetery of San Fernan- 333 do and later sent to Italy. The southeastern corner of the second block, Ca. Sur 3, N*^ 626, is occupied by the Banco Nacional (see p. 231), built by F. Guerrero y Torres 1769-72 for the Count of San Mateo de Valparaiso. It is one of the characteristic Mexican houses, built in Renaissance style, with neat water-spouts, elevated corner-piece with niche for an Image and an elegant courtyard. The next cross-street of Av. Or. 4, is «Ca. Sur I >, the street of theatres. Here stands in middle of the northern block, opposite A v. Or. 2, the large Opera house, now called Teatro Nacional (see p. 217) the exterior of which is only distinguished by the four noble Corinthian columns and two pilasters of the portico. Behind the same is a spacious vesti- bule of three stories with twelve Doric columns be- neath, Ionic above and fluted pillars in the third. Many of the world-famed artists have appeared on the stage of this theatre as H. Sontag (1854), Tamberlick ( 1871 ), Adelaide Ristori (1875), Adeline Patti (1887 & 90), Sarah Bernhardt (1887) and Angela Peralta cthe Mexican Nightingale > (from 1865-74). At the northeastern corner of this block is the fashionable convent church of Santa Clara, dedicated October 22, 1661, renovated 1756. The front is in Av. Or. hidden by a high wall. It occupies the Azin^ precinct of Pepetlan. The convent of the Francis- can nuns (Clarisas) was established 1579 in the ad- joining large building, closed February 13, 1861, and serves at present as stable and dwellings. — The pro- jecting portico seen in the third block is the entrance 334 of the House of Deputies, the former Teatro Iturbide. — Southwards, we notice in the first block on the eastern side the Teatro Principal (see p. 217) and in the second on the western side the large conveut- hke building of the former Colegio de Ninas, school for girls, founded in 1548 by the zealous Franciscan Pedro de Gante, suppressed in 1 86 1. The school (N° 609) is now occupied by the German Club cDeutsches Haus>. The httle chapel is still open to the public. In fAv. Or. 4>, follow now the two Calles de San Francisco. In them is first conspicuous house N° 73^ the historical *Hot;el Iturbide (see p. 216), a large four-story building, in late Renaissance style, richly ornamented with stucco and painted. It was built at the end of the last century by F. Guerrero y Tor- res for the widow of the Marquis of San Mateo Valparaiso. Through the high door -way we glance into the elegant large courtyard, surrounded by thirteen slender Doric columns which support the lofty arches. Iturbide occupied this palace from September 1 82 1 to March 1823; here he was proclaimed Emperor in March 18, 1822, by the enthusiastic (?) sergeant P. Marcha, from here he was drawn by the people in his carriage to the aimiable (!) Congress, which sanc- tified this distinction and from here he was taken to be crowned. On March i, 1855 the building was opened as hotel. In the northern block of , on the northeast corner are seen the ruins of the former hospital church of the Betlemitas. — The conspicous 335 brick building with Gothic windows on the west side of the southern block (N° 423) is the M. E. church of the Santisima Trinidad (Trinity Church), dedicated Christ- mas 1873 in the court of the monastery of San Francisco. The monastery of *San Francisco with its various churches and chapels was the largest, oldest and most important in the City. The Franciscans, the first re- ligious order which arrived in Mexico, founded their first primitive monastery in 1524 near the main temple of the Aztecs and the zoological garden of Moctezumall., thus cohering part of the grounds of the Cathedral. But in the same year they begun the erection of the new establishment in Av. Or. 4, at the expense of Cortes, which was finally so enlarged that it occupied over two large blocks, extending from Av. Or. 4 to 8, and from Ca. Sur B. I, to Ca. Sur. It contained in the monastery 9 dormitories with 300 cells, further li churches and chapels, a hospital, a large garden and cemetery. In 1856 the tCalle de la Independencia> (part of Av. Or. 6), was cut through the monastery and in 1861 the broad cCalle Gante> (part of Ca. Sur B. 1), through its cemetery. On these grounds the first parish for the Indians was erected (San Jose, destroyed 1769; in 1791 oc- cupied by the chapel of the Servitos), the first school for Indians and the first Theological Seminary. Here the first Concilium Mexicanum took place; here Cortes listened once to mass and his bones rested from 1 629-1 794. In this church the viceroys for centuries gave lustre to the festivals by their presence and on September 27, 1827 the first cTe Deum> was sung for 336 the independence of Mexico and its Leroe Iturbide (whose funeral services were held here in 1838). In this monastery was discovered on September 14, 1856 the fatal revolution against Comonfortj which gave the first step toward the sequestration of church pro- perty in jNIexico, The monastery was suppressed September 16, 1856 and again September 27, i860. Thereafter the clowns of a travelling circus company turned summersaults for some time in one of its courts and in 1869 the protestants established in the principal temple their first church in Mexico. Tem- pora mutantur ! — Now there remains only the large main church dedicated December 8, 1716, whose richly ornamented fagade on the west side is excluded by buildings and whose tower is demolished. The large valuable paintings are preserved in the Academy of Art. The interior forms a large hall; the vault consists of flat domes and is crowned by a high dome with lantern. Over the entrance in the west was the choir, on the opposite side the main altar (with a silver tabernacle worth 824,000). This is now the < Ca- thedraU of the Mexican protestant sect of «Nuestro Senor Jesucristo (see p. 55). — On the northern side of the church, in place of the former chapel of NuESTRo Senor de Aranzazu (built 1683-88) has been in construction since 1 888 the fine church of San Felipe de Jesus. At its western side, in front of the former chapel of Nuestra Senora de Bal- VANERA, which now forms the entrance to the main church is an atrium. The portal of the chapel is ornamented in Renaissance style. English services are 337 held here (see p. 214). Behind the church in Av. Or. 6, N^ 23 was the Garden, now transformed into a nursery of plants and adjoining it (N*^' 5) the former monastery wilh its chapel, since 1886 transformed into the Hotel del Jardin (see p. 210). In front of the old church, in Av. Or. 4, N^ 26, stands the phantastic *Casa de los Azulejos, built like certain palaces in Sicily in quaint Roccocco style. The front and part of the western wall are adorned with geometrical figures of blue tiles, the roof is embattled and- above it are two niches for sanctuaries. The court with its fine stair-case is ornamented in Moorish style. It was built at the beginning of the last certury for the Count del Valle from Orizaba, a descendant of Cortes. A tale is told, that the young count was very extravagant. His father once warned him of the sequence of this life with the words: You will never own a house of tiles ! But the young man reformed in time to disprove his father's prophecy. On December 4, 1828, during the so-called rebellion of the Acordada, the proprietor was cowardly murdered by the sergeant PalaciOB, who in 1832 was shot for this crime on the adjoining square. The palace belongs now to the widow of Felipe Iturbe, who since 189 1 has rented it for $25,000 a year to the < Jockey Club> (see p. 219). — The little square with banana plants, in front of the elegant house N° 10, with the projecting classic portico and the bronze statues upon the roof, was formerly called after the first proprietor of this house PLAZUELA DE GUARDIOLA and later DE MORELOS. The building belongs now to Vicente Escandon. 338 Behind the blue tile house, in >Av. Of.> N° 29- 51, stands the *Escuela de Ingenieros (or Mineria, see p. 225 & 228), one of the finest and largest edifices in Mexico, built in 1797-1813, in the Aztec precinct of Kilpantongo, according to the plans of M. Tolsa: in a severe classic style, of porphyry and free stone, at the cost of $l.597)435> comprising an irregular square (in front 293 ft. long). Soon after completion the foundation sunk so much that the walls leaned considerably and were badly cracked. Antonio Villard (civil engineer) undertook in 1830 the restauration (for $97,000). The three entrances are adorned with columns, the windows with cornices, the roof with a fine balustrade and vases. The broad central portal is bounded below by six Doric columns, between which are three lofty arches, in (he second story six Ionic columns support the cornice and the gable. Through a large vestibule with lofty vault the large courtyard is entered (a square of 86^ ft.). The latter is surrounded by elegant cloisters, in the lower story formed by 20 bulky pilasters with Doric half- columns and arches, in the upper by 22 pairs of very graceful Ionic columns. In the center of the back- ground are the elegant stairs, enclosed by a fine hall with pilasters and arches, crowned with an elevated dome and square wooden lantern. There are besides this five smaller courtyards. The library, formerly the chapel contains two ceiling-frescoes by R. Jimeno: < Glory of Mary> and < Apparition of the Virgin of Guadalupe*. The eastern part (N° 51) is occupied by the Department of Commerce (see p. 223). General 339 Ulysses Grant sojourned in this building during his visit in 1 880. The western block, is mostly occupied by the Es- cuela de Comercio (see p. 225), built in 1756 as hospital of the Tertiary Order of St. Franciscus (Hos- pital de Terceros ). It possesses a largs courtyard with fine cloisters. The Commercial College was here established in 1868. Opposite these two schools appear two old buildings with grated windows and reliefs of escutcheons and saints. The first (N° 24), now the Institucion Val- divelse (the eye clinic), was formerly the oratory of the brotherhood of Ara Coeli, built in 1750; the second, N° 42, now the Municipal Hospital de San Andres was founded 1626 as Seminary of the Jesuits, transformed in the Autumn of 1779 into a small-pox infirmary and later into a hospital. Since 1 86 1 it is the property of the City. Southwest Tour. (The 'Highway to Tacuba with *Alameda, Santa Veracruz, San Juan de Dios, San Diego and ^San Hipolitor From Avenida Poniente 4, to the *Paseo de la Reforma and **Cha- pultepec. The Ciudadela, Prison of Belem, Belem de los Padres and Campo Florido. San Cosme and the Casa de log Mascarones). Standing at the western corner of the Commercial College we have reached the division point of the new STREET NOMENCLATURE (see p. 1 93), from where we will begin our rambles through the southwest quarter. The 340 cross street at our right (north) is the Calle Norte, the continuation at the left the « Calle Surs. In the third block of the latter, about midway is the small, tower- less convent chujch of Santa Brigida, one of t>ie most fashionable of the City, completed with the convent December 21, 1744 for the Bridgittine nuns. The third block contains in N^ 82 1 the former Hospital Real, founded 1553, for the Indians; from the mid- dle of the i6tli century to 1 741 in charge of the IMexican order of Brothers of Charity, the , which established in it (at the end of the l&tli centu- ry) the FIRST THEATRE in North America- (< Corral de las Comediasj) to maintain their hospital with the proceedings. The theatre burnt down January 19, 1722, was rebuilt and a few years later transferred (see p. 217)— to the great joy of the sick. In this hos- pital the first Medical CC'LLEGE in Mexico was orga- nized in Feb. 3, 1 770. The broad and lively, but rather irregular street in front of the « Commercial College* is the beginning of cAvenida Oriented, which continues westward under the name of * Avenida Poniente : both form a part of the Highway to Tacuba. This is one of the oldest and most interesting streets in Mexico, occupying the same road as the Aztec cause- way, built about 141 7 during the reign of Chimalpo- poca, from the eastern border of the City to the main-temple and from there to the western end of the island and through the lake to Atzcapotzalco. Northward parted a sidewalk to the old town of No- noalco and southward to the island of Chapultepec. 341 The latter carried one part of the aqueduct to the City. This causeway cut by several canals and beyond San Hi- polito bordered on both sides by water, played a very important part during the Conquest, especially during the «Noche Triste> and the siege. Over this road Cortes hurried secretly from the City on the rainy midnight of June 30, 1520, after having killed prince IMoctezuma and several chieftains, with his army of about 1,600 Spaniards and 7,000 Tlaxcaltecas and a million dollars worth of robbed valuables. When they reached the precinct of Tecpatzinco, ( at the be- ginning of Av. Po., near Ca. Sur) they were noticed by the guards (or by an old woman as legend said), who informed against them. Immediately the muffle- sounding drums (teohuehuete) and horns gave the signal of alarm from the temples and soon afterwards the streets were filled with warriors and the canals with boats, which tried to detain the flying guests of IMoctezuma. A great confusion ensued: a considerable part of the rear guard was cut off and compelled to return to the castle or to be slaughtered. Cortes is said to have found his first opportunity to reflect under the famous cypress of Popotla, where he sat down and wept (like the tyrannic President Santa Ana after his defeat in Texas) from disappointment and anger over his spoiled plans. He lost upon this causeway about two-thirds of his retenue (1,000 Spaniards, 4-5,000 Indians, 80 horses and most of the cannon and treasure). The broad road runs somewhat obliquely and crooked through the City from Ca, Norte 25 to the 342 Garlta Mejfa. It contains several tracks of various street-car lines and is frequented by numerous Indians and caravans of donkeys (burros). We have already become acquainted with several of the important build- ings which border the eastern half of this road, as the Cathedral, Santa Clara and Betlemitas, the School of Engineering and the Hospital of San Andres. In its western prolongation it is bordered on its south side by the lovely < Central Park* of Mexico, the ever-green and elegant *Alameda (see p. 128) It has arisen out of two public squares which were here from the time of the Conquest. The eastern half was formerly the market of San Hipolito, the western-the «Quemadero», containing the mortar hearth for the burning of victims of the Inquisition: the sacrificial stone of Christianity. The Viceroy Velasco incited (Jan. 1592) the city-council to the laying out of a park, which in the following year was started in the former market of San Hipolito and received after its rows of poplars (alamos) the name of c Ala- meda >. In the second half of the iS^li century the Viceroy Croix incorporated the Quemadero into the park and in 1 791 the Viceroy Revillagigedo converted it into a fashionable resort. Soon after the Indepen- dence and since 1872 the garden has been greatly improved. It is planted with ashes, eucalyptus, poplars, willows, pepper trees, cypress, palms, bananas and has many flower-beds with roses, geraniums, poppies, gillyflowers, calla-lilies etc. The rendez-vous of high life on Sunday morning or on certain festivals (Holy- week, May 5, Sept. 16, Nov, 2, etc) is one of the 343 most interesting sights of the City. At the south- eastern entrance are on fine marble pedestals two very poor bronze lions. In the center of the southern side has been placed the octagonal Moorish exfosition HALL from the World's Fair in New Orleans, now oc- cupied by the Lottery Company. Opposite the Alameda in Avenida Poniente, ap- pear two churches with slender towers and the favorite octagonal domes, bordering the little green JaRDIN MoRELOS, which encloses a marble statue of Morelos by Plate. At the eastern side stands the parish of Santa Veracruz, built by the brotherhood of the Holy True Cross (founded by Corses to comfort and bury condemned criminals), dedicated October 14, 1730, tastelessly renovated 1850 and 1885. This church has two towers; the fagade is very simply ornamented in Doric order. The main altar contains a cruclhx brought to Mex- ico by the Conquerors, guarded here with seven veils and therefore called ) to replace their oldest church from 1 62 1. It has a simple fagade painted yellow, a dwarfy tower and an octagonal dome. The interior forms one nave with Roman vault; above the entrance is a high choir. At the northern side is the elegant chapel of *Los Dolores whose walls are almost entirely covered by 15 large oil-paintings by F. A. Vallejo, representing the c Passion of Christ > the best are the two above the entrance «The Expo- sition of Christ* and , at the corner of Ca. Norte 8, rises behind a high wall and a little atrium the interesting monastery church of *San Hi- polito, begun in 1599, dedicated 1739 and renovated 1777. Here was the western end of the Aztec island- city and in the place of the church stood formerly, near a canal, the Petlacalli (or Cuauhcalli), the prison of the sacrificial slaves. Canal and building were fortified by the Aztecs and during the < Dismal Night* of 1520 the Conquerors suffered here their grandest losses. They had to sustain so hard a struggle at this place, that the canal was filled with corpses. Dur- ing the siege, about middle of June 1521, Captain 345 Alvarado occupied the building and made it his head- quarters. On the outside corner of the wall of the atrium, an inscription records the heavy losses of the cNoche Triste> and the capitulation of the City. Below is a curious relief — an Indian carried in the claws of an eagle, surrounded by weapons and in- struments. The picture refers to a modern Az^tec legend, from the last days of the rule of Moctezu- ma II., related by Duran. An Indian laborer was carried by an eagle away from his field to a cave, where the spirit of the mountain ordered him to notify Moctezuma of the anger of the gods and the end of his rule and thereafter it replaced him upon the earth at this place.— Soon after the Con- quest the Spanish soldier Juan de Garrido erected on this spot, where so many of his companions perished, a hermitage, known as < chapel of the mar- tyrs* and later dedicated to St. Hippolytus^^ because the date of the capitulation of the City (August 13), was St. Hippolytus' day. In 1599 the Municipality took charge of the chapel and begun the present church. The two towers project with the angle into the atrium; but only one ol them (the eastern) is completed and ornamented with six quaint, colored figures; the dome is octagonal. The interior forms a cross and has a vault of flat domes. Two of the side altars are in late Renaissance style with gilded ornamentations. — Adjoining the church, in N"^ 815- 21 is the insane asylum Hospital de San Hipolito, founded by Bernardino Alvarez, January 28, 1567, who two years later also founded the religious order 346 of the Hip6lilos to take care of the hospital. The present building was erected in 1773 and renovated in 1848, since October i, 1820 it has been City proper- ty. — Compare p. 356, description of this street continued. The street on the south-side of the Alameda, now a part of Avenida Poniente 4, was lately known as Avenida Juarez and leads to the Paseo de la Reforma. Opposite the Exposition hall, at the cornev &f Ca. Sur C. 4, stands the little convent church of Corpus Chrjsti (dedicated July 10, 1724; the con- vent was founded for the daughters of Indian chief- tains). Two blocks farther west is the beginning of , which overthrew the government of President Pedraza and destroyed and robbed the « Parian >. A little farther the street opens into a large octagonal square, in whose center arises the excellent Eques- trian Statue of **Carlos IV., by M. Tolsa, popularly known as cCaballito de Troya>, on account of its many removals. This is the first important bronze staluc made in America and, according to Humboldt, next to the classic Marcus Aurelius in Rome, the finest equestrian statue in the world. It is executed in a single piece, weighing 456.4 Hb. is 15.95 inch, high, was cast by Salvador de la Vega, August 4, 1802 (4 a. ra.), finished November 29, and unveiled December 9, 1803 on the Main Square. In 1 8 24 it was removed to the court of the University and in 1852 to its present place. It represents one of the most unwor- thy men, who occupied a throne by cthe Grace of God>, the ugly Charles IV. of Bourbon, King of Spain, dressed as Caesar. The horse is represented in the act of walking slowly, thus the left fore fool and the right hind foot is raised. From this square, parts southwards the former Pa- SEO DE BucARELi, nowcCa. Sur I2>, opened Nov. 4, 1778, leading to the Garita Pcrfirio Diaz and beyond to the suburb of La Piedad with its two cemeteries (see p. 216). At the corner of the square, , N^ 609, are the elegant baths: Alber- CA Blasio. At the southern extremity of the 348 street appear the ruins of the large wooden bull- fight ring, the Paseo Bucareli. Rambling eastwards theough Av. Po. lo, and then southwards through Ca. Sur 2, we soon reach the former PlAza de San Juan, uhere we notice on the western side two churches, each one with a little tower and a large gaily colored dome in octagonal form. At its northern end stands the parish of San Jos6, built at the be- ginning of this century, partially destroyed by the earthquake of June 19, 1858, renovated 1858-61 and 1 89 1- 92. Opposite the same rises the convent church of San Juan de la Penitencia, built for the cClari- sas>, on the site of a chapel of San Juan Bautista, from 1 69 5-1 71 1 (dedicated Jan. 24). The eastern part of the square is occupied by the large iron hall of the Mercado de San Juan (or Iturbide). At the time of the Conquest there was in this place the market of Tecoyahualco, In 1849 the square was again des- tined to this purpose and in 18-89 furnished with the present market hall. At the southern end of , at the south side of the Plazuela del Tecpan de San Juan is the quaint fountain Salto del Agua, with which we have already become acquainted (see p. 323). The arches of the aqueduct, which formerly 349 characterized this avenue have disappeared. In the third block of the avenue, toward the west, is a little square, bordered on the western side by the college church of the Brothers of Charity, known as Belem de los Padres, dedicated December 14, 1735. The adjoining college building is used a^ barracks. The fifth block encloses since 1862 the miserable Carcel Municipal (see p. 232), popularly known als c Be- lem*, receiving on an average about 30 prisoners daily. The building was begun at the end of the l6tli century as religious school for women and reo- pened on May 3, 1684, as CoLEGio DE San Miguel de Belem. In October 1871 most of the prisoners were liberated to take part in the revolution. From the corner of Ca. Sur 8 parts the Highway TO Chapultepec, which still carries a row oi arches of the aqueduct from Chapultepec (see p. 170) and the track of the street-cars to Tacubaya. The large block follow- ing westwards in is the Fabrica Na- cional de Armas, formerly fortified and known as Ciudadela, built after the Independence as armory and prison for political offenders. Here Morelos was detained in 1815. This building played an important part during the revolutions of 1840, 41, 45, 46, 58 and 71. At the western end of this avenue we are again in < Ca. Sur 12 > where we proceed north- wards. Crossing we notice westwards the baths of the Alberca Pane (see p. 212), the largest and most frequented in the City, which on ^St. John's day are the scene of a curious popular 350 festival (see p. 98). Opposite these baths, corner stands the second bullfight ring the Plaza Colon. Near it, in Av. Poniente 18, is the Fabrica de la Luz el^ctrica (electric plant). Returning to the statue of Charles IV. we direct our steps now southwest, toward the new **Paseo de la Reforma (see p. 219), one of the most pic- turesque promenades in the world and the of Mexico. The long and broad avenue was laid out in 1864 by ?.Iaximilian and finished in 1877. It begins at the corner of «Ca. Sur I2> and is bound in the background by the elevated white < Castle of Chapultepeo, above which rises the distant < Sierra de las Crucesj. Between the double rows of eucalyptus appear the two colossal monuments of the circles. Under the shade of the trees, near the street are two rows of pedestals with unartistic bronze -statues of Mexican heroes, alternating with fine bronze vases. On both sides the avenue is bordered by elegant villas and luxurious palaces in all styles of architecture, enclosing the homes of Mexican and foreign mil- lionaires, the fashionable tCafe Colon > and the by M. Norena; on the opposite side c Cuauhtemoc and Tetlepanquetzal 352 tormented in order to reveal the secret of the sup- posed hidden treasures* by C. GuERRA. The second part contains below the names of four Aztec heroes (Cuitlahuac, Cacama, Tetlepanquetzal and Coanacoch), in the middle, columns and niches with Aztec arms and above, a cornice with shields and coat of arms. The upper part, decorated with snakes and other symbols supports the idealized bronze statue of the brave Aztec prince, by M. Norena. He awaits the enemy: the right hand is ready to cast the spear, the right foot to advance; he wears sandals, a loose mantle and the high feather crown.— Around this monument, since 1887 a peculiar festival has been held on August 21, the supposed day of the torture of Cuauhtemoc, with processions, dances and addresses by the modera Aztecs. —Northwest from this circle extends the Colo- NIA DE LOS Arquitectos, with many elegant villas and the depot of the Ferrocarril Nacional (see p. 205). At the southwestern end of the Paseo rises the ro- mantic **Castillo de Chapultepec upon an isolated rock of porphyry (see p. 139), surrounded by vener- able and gigantic «ahuehuetes> (see p. 23), and murmuring springs. This is one of the most pict- uresque and interesting places of the valley, offering a magnificent view over one of the finest landscapes in the world and many recollections of important and peculiar historical events. Formerly an island in the salty lake of Texcoco, it was occupied in 1279 (?) by the errant Aztecs and called the thill of the grasshoppers > ( chapulin == grasshopper, tepetl=hill, co=:in). From this fortress the warlike Aztecs made 353 many invasions into the valley to secure prisoners for their bloodthirsty gods, until they were finally conquered and driven away in 1 299 (?) by the Acol- huas (Atzcapotzalco etc). Prince Quinantzin the leader of the Acolhuas afterwards fell in love with the vir- tuous daughter Chimalaxochitl of the Aztec chieftain Huitzilihuitzin and married her. After the foundation of Tenochtitlan the Aztec princes made this place a reso^ and erected upon the summit a temple. The cave of the hill became the sanctuary of Malintzin and the springs of the goddess of water. A great amount of game abounded in the swampy forest around the hill. About 1417 Prince Chimalpopoca had the aqueduct built to the City. The princes Moctezuma I., Ahuitzotl and some others had their pictures carved in the rock. The relief of the former disappeared in 1 753, that of the latter still exists in fragments. The aqueduct destroyed at the beginning of the siege was repaired after the reconstruction of the City. In 1 5 28 Juan Diaz del Real opened in Cha- pultepec a small store and in 1530 the City claimed the hill as property. The viceroys built here a hunting- cas'ile and a little chapel and later a powder-mill and the prison of the Acordada were established on these grounds, the latter was transferred in 1 759, the former exploded in 1784. During the l8tti century enterprising Spaniards researched the rock to find in the fountain-head the treasures of Moctezuma. In 1785 Count Bernardo de Galvez begun the erection of a large, fortified castle upon the summit, which was completed after his death and cost $300,000, At the end of the last century 354. the government wanted to sell this castle, but the City opposed it. In 1842 the Military School was for the first time transferred to this place and re- mained here till 1863. During the wslv with the United States the storming of the castle on Septem- ber 13, 1847 (^t 10 a. m,), under General Pillow, decided the ill fate of Mexico, General Bravo de- fended the castle with about 2^000 men (among them 200 cadets) against about 8,000 North Americans. Maximilian had the ca-tle renovated in Pompeian style and made it his favorite residence. It has since been several times again reformed and is now the summer resort of the president. The park is open to the public from 5 a. m. to 7 p. m.; to visit the interior of the castle a special permit is necessary (see p. 255). Three roads, bordered by avenues of trees, part diagonally from the entrance of the castle to the City. In the center runs the cPaseo de la Reforma>, north from the same the cCalzada de la Ver6nica> with the remains of the aqueduct from Santa Fe; on the south side the tCakada de Chapultepec* with the aqueduct from Chapultepec. The arches of the aqueducts form also the northern and souihern en- closure of the grounds of the caslle. The entrance, formed by arches, is on the eastern side. Behind the same, in front of the rock, a little garden is arranged with statues, fountains, duck pond and deer park. In the rear stands, under a picturesque cypress, since 1880, the pretty MONUMENTO CONMEMORATIVO, an obelisque for the cadets fallen, wounded and captured 355 during the battles of Soptember 8 and 1 3, 1847. On 'he southern side is the embryonic Zoological Garden of Mexico, containing an alligator, some lions, bears, monkeys, eagles etc (see p. 39 etc.). Nearer the castle are on the same side, the old Hydraulic Works and the smaller spring called ALBES.CA DE MocTEZUMA, about 9 ft. deep. Behind the same rises the largest of the cypresses the *Arbol DE Moctezuma (45 ft. in circumference and about 200 ft. high). A little north from the monument, at the foot of the eastern slope of the rock, is the frag- ment of the *Relief of Ahuitzotl, surrounded by Arabesques and ideogramf.. A little farther south, r-tar the beginning of the main avenue to the sum- mit, is the entrance to the old Cave, which is 246 ft. long and wa's provided by the fortune hunters at the beginning of the last century, with an air-shaft to the summit (90^ ft. deep). The cave was much im- proved by Maximilian. Around the rock and continuing westwards extends a wild little parlc wicli about 280 slender and gigan- tic cypresses, ctn curies old, picturesquely draped by nature wiih pendants of gray Spanish moss. There ave besides some pines, pepper trees etc. From Sep- tember 8-13 the cadets celebrate here annually the memorial ceremonies of their fallen comrades. The large castle, which crowns the summit forms an irregular rectangle from two to four stories high and consists of several buildings in Toscan and Pom- peian style, having u fa gade on the east and south sides >7ith arcades and poidici, surrounded by terraces with 356 flower gardens and fountains. The western part of the building has been occupied since l883bythe Milita- ry School (see p. 217). The eastern part forms the Summer Residence of the president, is elegantly furnished and contains many SOUVENIRS OF MAXIMI- LIAN, Above the palace was established 1 878 an AS- TRONOMICAL Observatory. From here as well as from the balconies an enchanting **View is obtained over the City and the Valley (compare p. 1 76-81). On the southern side, but outside of the park, opposite the depot of the street-cars to Tacubaya is the laiger spring, the Alberca Grande, about 22 ft. 'deep and near it, at the side of the former baths of Chapultepec, are the new Hydraulic Works for the aqueduct of Chapultepec, established December 29, 1891, at the cost of $100,000. Three pumps ele- vate 12 tons (cubic meter) of water 82-95 ft. high per minute. From the entrance of the park a good walker may choose the dusty Calzada de la Veronica (the northern causeway) for the return to the City. It leads us northwards to the Garita Meji'a and the western extremity of the City. At tlie end of the street, outside of the City, we pass the pretty American and English Cemeteries (see p. 216). Near the entrance of the latter stood, according to Chavero, the Aztec temple of Ayauhcalco. We enter the City through the highway of Tacu- ba, the cAvenida Poniente>, already known to us (see p. 343). On both sides of the same new quar- ters have arisen. Toward the north extends the cCo- 357 LONiA DE Santa Maria > and toward the south the elegant < Colonia de los Arquitectos >. At the end of the latter, in Ca. Sur 36, is the American Hospi- tal (see p. 213).— Farther east, . At the end ot the same we begin our ramble through the north- west quarter. Northwest Tour. (Churcli and Cemetery of 'San Fernando. Colonia de Guer- rero. Santa Maria la Redonda and Santa Maria de I03 An- geles). Calle Norte 12 opens into the green c Plazuela DE Guerrero in the center of which arises on a high Patent Medecines Agents of B. Anilin & Soda Fabrik ^OILET CiOODS. KODAK Special list for GOODS. . On each June 19, a solemn mass is held for Maximilian and his two generals Miramon and Mejfa, who were shot with him (1867). East from the church is the **Pan' teon de San Fernando (or P. de los Hombres Ilustres, see p. 215), the Westminster of Mexico, des- tined for Mexican celebrities, containing now about 1,200 dead, which are mostly deposited in niches (in the style of the Roman catacombs) in the walls of the cloisters of two courts. In the main court rest President I. Comonfort, the imperial General T. Me- jfa. General I. Zaragoza (the heroical defender of Puebla ), President M. Carrera and under a fine ♦Mausoleum, President Benito Juarez. The roof is supported by 16 Doric columns; in the center stands the sarcophagus with the excellent marble group by J. and M. Islas (unveiled July 18, l88o): * Th© 36o mourning Country at the corpse of its Liberator. The central niche of the eastern wall contains the remains of the two statesmen M. Ocampo and M. Lerdo. A little toward the left in N° 401 are those of President J. Herrera and in N° 46 1 those of the tragedian A. Castro. In the corner niche of the northern wall rests the political writer L. Valle. In the eastern niche of the smaller court stands the monument of President V. Guerrero; in the center that of the im- perial General M. Miraraon, In the north wall rests the author of the National hymn F. Bocanegra (N^ 62) and the actor M. Morales (N° 59.) A memorial festival is held at this cemetery in honoa of B. Jua- rez each l8tt of July. North, behind the church passes cAv. Po. 5>, through which we continue our walk eastwards. The northern part of this quarter, partially in the for- me garden of San Fernando, is entirely new and known as Colonia de Guerrero. In the east it is joined by the old Aztec Quarter of Cuepopan. At the southwestern corner of Ca. Norte 8, we notice the tower of San Hipdlito (see p. 34.4), which marks the termination of the Aztec City. Between Ca. Norte 2, and B. 2, is the little market- hall of the Mercado Dos dc Abril (or Juan Carbonero). Adjoining the same* on the former Plaza de Villamil, stands the iron Cir- co Teatro Orrin (see p. 217), built in Moorish style. The large edifice opposite, in A v. Po. N^ 9-33 was first the a school for illegitimate daughters (!) and later the Convento de las Hermanas DE LA Carid AD, suppressed January 1875, 361 Proceeding northwards through , we reach at the corner of Av. Po. 13, the neglected square in front of the little old parish of Santa Ma- ria la Redonda, founded in the Aztec precinct of Tlaquechiuhcan by Pedro de Gante in 1524. The little church with octagonal tower and dome has in front a large atrium and is enclosed by a high wall. The angular takes us westwards to the crooked, unpaved and dirty tCa. Norte 4.>, where we direct our steps again toward the north. Beyond Av. Po. 23 we meet on the east side the gaily co- lored < Portal Castelazo* and beyond Av. Po. 29 the large unpaved and dusty square (with a fountain) in front of the new church of Nuestra Senora de los Angeles, which has a simple fagade, two tiny towers and an elegant round dome. It stands a little east from the Aztec suburb of Nonoalco, was completed 1808 and replaces the chapel which housed the miraculous sanctuary of , named after the many angel-heads by which it is surrounded ) was christened. The church is now a depot of the custom house, called Almacen Juarez. The new Aduana (see p. 206) borders the northern part of the square. The long low building of the eastern side was formerly the court-house for the Indians, the Tecpam of Tlaltelolco, established after the Con- quest (see p. 323) and has been since 1850, the School of Correc'ion, now called Escuela Industrial de Hu6rfanos. The quarter east from this square was formerly 5^5 known as Barrio de Peralvillo, distinguished by- its many miserable inns (mesones) and the great number of . The want of drinking water kept the taguadores> especially busy here. The pop- ular festival of Santa Cruz (see p. 98) was therefore celebrated here with greatest attendance. Through the northern cGarita> the numerous wagons entered, which brought the daily ration of < pulque > to the City. Passing through Av. Or. A. 31, we reach the lively «Ca. Norte 5>, which leads northwards to the Garita Corona. Beyond the same, at the new HIGHWAY TO GuADALUPE, is the wooden depot of the Ferrocarril de Hidalgo y del Nordeste (see p. 205). Toward the south, at the corner of Av. Or. 29, we find in this street the small, old parish of Santa Ana, founded by the Franciscans on the site of the Aztec Temple of Xacacalco. Near the latter stood the armory or Tlacochcalco. The quarter of Xaca- calco was from the end of June 1521 the last refuge of the Aztecs after their expulsion from the center of Tenochtitlan and Tlaltelolco. This temple was then the headquarters of Cuauhtemoc. The present church with its painted diminutive towers was dedicated March 16, 1754. In the baptistery is now preserved the large stone font, in which Juan Diego was christened (see p. 364). — In front of the church Ca. Norte 5, is the little market hall of the Mercado de Santa Ana. Eastwards, through which follows the Une of the Aztec highway to 366 •Tepeyac(ac), now Guadalupe. It separated the two northern quarters of Tenochtitlan, the western Cuepopan (which we just have left) from the eastern Atzacual- CO. The latter was together with the precinct of Xacacalco (in the quarter of Cuepopan) the last strong- hold of the besieged Aztecs (see p. 365). The little ch^el Capilla de Tepito at the end of Av. Or. A. 27, in front of the square stands probably on the site of the Aztec temple of the precinct of Xoco- TITLAN or Tenantitech. Proceeding through Ca. Nor- te 7j to , we find westward in the lat- ter (at the corner of Ca. Norte 5). the yellow parish of Santa Catarina Martir, with its projecting tower and octagonal dome, dedicated January 22, 1662, oc- cupying the place of the Aztec temple of Tezon- TLALAMACOYAN. It has a large side chapel of the and many altars with curious pictures and statues. — Opposite this church, Ca. Nor- te 5, N° 1308 is the little market hall of the Mer- cado de Santa Catarina, renovated in i88i. Eastwards through we reach the square with the uncompleted ex-convent church of Carmen. The large chapel with the octagonal and colored tile dome was finished in 1748. A little southwest from this square in A v. Or. II, N° 727, stands the unsightly *Casa de Moneda (see p. 77 & 231), the oldest and most important Mint of Mex- ico, since 1866 greatly improved and provided with the best American and English muchinery. The ma- chine for making the edge accomplishes 600 pesos, the stamps make 83 pesos (or 120 smaller coins) per 367 minute. Duriog the last decade (18S1-91) there were coined here about one third of the total amount of coinage in Mexico, or on an average yearly $283,438 worth of gold, $7,108,463 worth of silver — and (in the year 1890-91) $218,869 worth of copper. Returning to , till we reach in front of an irregular square the little, old parish of San Sebastian, founded 1524, at the site of the Aztec TEMPLE OF Atzacualco, by Pedro de Gante. fCa. Norte 13*, takes us southwards to the new and elegant Jesuit church of *Loreto with the leaning Dome of Mexico, built in front of the Indian college of San Gregorio 1809-16, by M. ToLSA and A. Paz, (of free stone and amygdaloid, at the cost of Antonio de Bassoco, for $517,000), for the miraculous figure of cNuestra Seiiora de Loreto, brought in 1675 from Italy by a Jesuit priest. The church was dedicated August 29, 1 8 16. In this building as in the Minerfa by Tolsa, the foundation yielded — so much, that the church had to be closed from 1832-50. The simple facade of the church, looking toward Av. Or. 3, has a marble relief above the portal and two dwarfish towers. The stately round dome is the grandest in the City in size and treatment, decorated with Co- rinthian columns. The cheerful and dignified interior. forms a Latin cross, t)ie minor branches of the same consist of four rotundas beneath the lofty dome. The vault is of Roman style. The church possesses 368 good oil paintings, some of them by J. Esquivel, at the fine San Gregorio (left) and the scenes from th» life of Loyola, in the sacristy. In front of the church stands the large iron hall of the Mercado dc Loreto, but little frequented. East, opposite of the latter appears the convent church of Santa Teresa la Antigua, dedicated Jan. 25, 1715. (The Carme- lite convent, founded 1701 is now used as barracks). The same block which contains Loreto, encloses also the former Jesuit college and church of San Pedro y San Pablo. The former was founded Nov. I, 1573 and a little later amplified by the Indian college of San Gregorio. The college church, crowned with a ponderous octagonal tower, was de- dicated 1603 and abandoned in 1850. After the Independence the church was occupied by the Con- gress, which in 1822 proclaimed Iturbide emperor. The college, Av. Or. 3, N^ iioo, is now converted into the Escuela de Correccion.— In the house N^ 17 of Ca. Norte 11, lived for some time the resolute Corregidora Josefa O. de Dominguez, who protected 1 8 ID in Quer^taro so successfully the first heroes of Independence. Passing westward through cAv. Or. I> we en- counter at the corner of Ca. Norte 7 the large and fine building of the former convent of La Ensenan- ZA Antigua, dedicated Nov. 23, 1754, built for the nuns of the tCompaniade Marfa, The church, still open, possesses richly ornamented and gilded altars in Renais- sance style with many curious figures. In 1 868 the main part was destined for the Palacio de Justicia 3^9 (Federal Court) and in 187 1 the northern part (or the Escuela de Ciegos (Blind Asylum), facing . The northeastern corner of the same street is oc- cupied by the former convent and the church of Santa Catarina de Sena (dedicated March 7, 1623). In this church is celebrated on March I, the festival of the of the antiquated Evangelista — the private se- cretary and poet of servants, laborers and beggars. On the other side in Ca. Norte 5, N° 309-23, we encounter first the large edifice of the Ex-Aduana^ built as custom house 1729-34, now provisionally occupied by the Secretaria de Comunicaciones (see p. 223), several military offices and the assembly Lall of the masons of the . In the waiting room of the latter is preserved the well carved judge's desk of the In- quisition — upon this same table the corpse of Maximi- lian was exhibited for some time in the chapel of San Andres. The elegant building with the blunt cor- ner, which occupies the next block north belongs now to the Escuela de Mediciua (see p. 225), but was built 1732-36 as Tribunal del Santo Oficio, on the site of the first convent of the Dominicans. It was popularly known as Casa CHATA (blunt corner) and contained the rooms for the Court of the Inqui- sition and the cells of the prison (the Petlacalli of the Christian Mexicans, compare p. 344). The Inquisition, introduced in Mexico 157 1, held the first «auto de fe> in 1574 and was suppressed in 18 1 3, but the last sentenced was the patriotic priest Morelos, shot 1815. The main court is surrounded by fine clois- ters; the corners of the same are without support. In the auditorium is a fine marble statue of St. Luke, by 371 Serrano. In this building the Mexican poet Manuel AcuNA poisoned himself Dec. 6, 1873.— The eastern part of the old Inquisition was bought by the Arch- bishop Labastida and serves now as ArzobispadO (see p. 215). In the north of the square rises the elegant mo- nastery church ^Santo Domingo of the Dominicans, behind a little garden (the 'former atrium). The present church, built of amygdaloid, was dedicated August 3, 1736. Its fagade is ornamented with Corinthian columns and two reliefs. The high ponderous tower consists of three stories with arches and columns. Abov^ the roof rises a high octagonal dome. The interior forms a Latin cross and is by its noble proportions very impressive; the lofty Roman vault is supported by 16 Corinthian fluted pilasters; between the latter are 1 1 side chapels. The two large altars of the transept- are in Renaissance style richly carved with gilded Ara- besques, figures etc, and decorated with statues and some good paintings. In the sacristy are noteworthy the painting of the « Crucifixion > (background) and of cSt. Ildefonso> (right). The large monastery of the Dominicans, extending west from the church was first erected on this place in 1530 and demolished since 1861 (together with the fine chapel of the Ro- sario). From this church, formerly started on Good Friday, the large procession of the < Santo Entierro>, to deposit the figure of Christ in the church of La Concepcion. During the French occupation several patriotic Mexicans were shot in front of the atrium. West from the church at the corner of is the new chapel of La Espiracion. Tn^o blocks further in this street (corner Ca. Norte i) rises the octagonal tile dome above the convent church of San Lorenzo, erected by the Augustinians, at the charges of Juan Riofrio, dedicated July 1 6, 1650. The con- vent (founded 1 598) is now occupied by the Escue- la Industrial de Artes y Oficios (a technological institution). The projecting portico which we notice toward the south, in Ca. Norte I, belongs to the Cimara de Diputados ( see p. 63 & 223 ), the House of Deputies, which occupies the former Teatro Iturbide — built 1851-56 and opened with a mas- querade. Opposite the same, in Av. Or. I, N" 127 is the Hospital para Mujeres Dementes (Insane Asylum for Women), founded by the pious carpenter Jose Sayago, who gathered in his house the crazed persons he met in the street, to care for them. After his death the Jesuits built on this place a large asylum, opened 1700 and dedicated, to El Divino Salvador. At the eastern corner of this block stands an old fashioned Mexican palace with stucco ornaments, now the property of Wells, Fargo &- Co. (see p. 207). Returning to San Lorenzo, we proceed a little farther west, to the large convent church of *La Concepcion, dedicated together with the convent 13} 1655, renovated 1809 and 1854. This convent of the Franciscan nuns or cClarisas> was the largest, richest and most fashionable in the City, founded in 1541, rebuilt 1644-55 ^t the cost of $250,000 and suppressed Feb. 13, 1861. It possessed then 127 373 houses worth $1,660,955 and had a yearly income of $110,000. In the latter year it made way for the two streets «Progreso> (Av. Or. 3), and (Ca. Norte B. i). The biscuits (empanadas), which were formerly sold by the nuns on Saturday before Easter, were highly appreciated as well by the faith- ful as by the gourmands. The fagade of the church, hidden by a high wall, is decorated in Greek com- posite order; the high tower consists of three stories, the dome is round. The interior forms a single nave and has a Roman vault with gilded stucco. The rich ornaments of the altars have disappeared but the ugly figures still remain. In the tabernacle is a pretty statue of the < Conception >. — On the square in front of the church stands a little CHAPEL for the deposit of corpses to be sent to the cemeteries. Here is also the station of the Mexican c express > carts.— North from this square is the dirty Plazuela del Jardin with the curious , another market for second-hand goods. ^ S^o u« i^lv ^a t -f. ooo EXCURSIONS THROUGH THE VALLEY. Street-Car Rides. (**Guadalupe-Hidalgo. *Tacuba, *San Bartolo, ^Atzcapotzal- co and Tlalnepantla. **Chapultepec, Dolores, *Tacubaya, Mrxcoac, ^Castaneda, ■*San Angel and Tizapan. *La Canada and *E1 Desierto. Coyoacan and Churubusco. La Pie dad and Mixcoac. Tlalpam. • *3anta- Anita and Ixtacalco ("Floating- Gardens"), Mexicaltzingo and *Ixtapalapanv *Penon de los Bancs. eS'Co'iipare: Street-car lines, jd. 208 and the descrip- tion of the VaUey p. 110-173„S?). **Guadalupe-Hidalgo, (City 3 miles north from Mexico, seat of prefectura and municipality, with 6566 inh, at the foot of the c Sierra de Guadalupe* on the conflu- ence of the rivers Tlalnepantla & Remedios, station of the Mexican R. R.) has been for centuries a sanctuary, a place of pilgrimage for the Aztecs and is now the < Mec- ca > and cLourdesj of the Mexicans, visited annually on December 12, by thousands of pilgrims, who come from far and near to venerate the miraculous picture, to drink of the water of the holy spring, to eat the . J. RICO. AMERlGA-ISr DENTIST. Graduate of the New- York College OF Dentistry. 10. — CALLE DEL EMPEDRADILLO. — lo. (Opposite the Flower Market). All kind sets of teeth made and repaired and any operation performed belonging to the profesion. LAUGHING GAS ADMINISTERED. =00)g: MODERATE RRICES :^c>DO English, German, French & Spanish spoken. ^ONZALEZ, ^UENTES & 5^0. Banking and Commission Merchants. San Agustin, N'' 12.— Apartado (P. O. Box), N^ 988. MEXICO^ Prompt attendance to Commissions of any kind: dealers in Mexican and foreign goods. LIBERAL RATES OF CAJElGrOS and coMMissio:isr. EA.ILEOA.DS OF ^IDALGO AND THE "^ORTHEAST. Rapid trains for passengers between the Cities of Mexico and Pachuca, the mining centre of most importance in the Republic. The troAns of this company/ i-un daily four times the line of Mexico and Pachuca, touching San Cnstobal (Drainage Co/mkI), Tizayuca, Tezontepec, San Agustin and Tepa, anxl the travns of Tlzayucan to Zumpango and Teoloyvxan, from San Agustin to Irolo, from Tepa to Las Lajas (R. R. of TiilancingoJ. Service of freight and passengers between these points and the intermediates. The trains of this ente-i-p-rise make the service of freight in combination with those of the National R, R. between Pachuca and the United States of America, o/ivd in coinMnation with those of the Interoceanic R. R, between Veracruz and Pachvxa. STATION IN MEXICO: Near the « Garita of Peralvillo >. Office of Traffic: Pachuca. Management : eORDOBANES STREET, N. 529. MEXICO. 375 beneficent earth and to enjoy the fair with its gam- bling booths and pulque-stands. The projecting hill, which rises 137 ft. above the city, was called by the Aztecs Tepetl-Yecaxcol or Tepeyacac (nose of the mountain) and had, as most of the isolated elevations of the valley, a sanctuary upon its summit, dedicated to the fruit- bearing earth, personated as < Centeotl > (the goddess of Indian corn), as (our mother) or as Chalchi- huitlicue (fertilizing water). The sanctuary, connected with Tenochtitlan by the northern causeway, was occupied atid destroyed by the Spaniards during the siege in 1 52 1. The Indians continued after the Conquest the pilgrimage to this place, to the great sorrow of the Franciscan mis- sionaries, who found no other way to remedy the evil than that of changing the Aztec idol for a Christian Saint. This was accomplished (according to Brother Agustin de Vetancourt) by means of the fol- lowing < miracle >. The fanatic and ignorant Indian cjuan Diego > went often from his village Tolpetlac to the convent church of Tlaltelolco and thus he did on December 9, 1531. When passing the hill of Te- peyac(ac) he heard the music of angels and was address- ed by a Lady who ordered him to go to the Bishop and tell him, that she wished a temple built for her in this place. The Indian delivered his mys- terious message, but the Bishop was not yet ready to believe and sent the credulous back to the hill, where he met the Lady and was asked to return the next day (Sunday). So he did and again the miraculous messenger sent him to the Bishop re- questing a temple, but again the priest was not yet ready 13 376 to believe and asked for a sure sign from the Lady, which she promised to give the Indian the following day. John was however unable to keep the appoint- ment, as his uncle was very ill. The sickness grow- ing serious, John felt himself obliged on the early morning of December 12, to go to Tlaltelolco for a confessor. Passing the eastern side of the hill, he saw the Lady coming down to him. She called him, saying that his uncle was already cured of his sickness and ordered him then to ascend the bar- ren hill to cut some roses there to carry as the sign requested by the Bishop. The Indian wrap- ped them in his blanket (tilma) and going away he saw at the foot of the hill, at the place where the Lady stood a spring of brackish water. Arriving then before the Bishop and showing the flowers, they dis- covered, beautifully painted upon the Indians blanket, the picture of the Virgin, which the Bishop could re- cognize as copy of the famous Senora de Guadalupe, the Virgin of the Spanish village in Extremadura (pro- vince of Caceres). Zumarraga, the Bishop, immediately caused a chapel to be built, in which the picture was placed 1533. It represents the Virgin as queen of heaven surrounded by a halo, resting upon the sickle" of the moon, carried by an angel. The canvass (3x6 ft.) is made of the fiber of a palm. The pious John became its first sexton (f 1548); his wife took the vow of chastity I the Franciscans in Tlaxcala found another credulous < Juan Diego >, who discovered there a spring and the miraculous picture of cNuestra Senora de Ocotlan>!I Presbyter Fortino H. Vera has written 377 tor the faithful a bibliography of the apparition in Guadalupe: cTesoro Guadalupano>, Amecameca, 1887. The Mexican Virgin lent new charm to the hill, which continued to be a sanctuary and place of pil- grimage. In time this Virgin became the main object of veneration in Mexico and was considered a thorough Mexican divinity. In 1663 the popes first recognized the miracle and granted that the 1-2^^ of December should be forever the festival of the Mexican Virgin. After the pestilence (matlazahuatl) of 1736 the Mex- ican clergy and people, elected her solemnly as pa- troness and finally by the bull of Mp.y 25^ 1 754, the miracle was sanctioned and confirmed by the pope. On September 1 6, 1 810, the political priest Hidalgo took from the church of Atotonilco a picture of this Virgin for his banner and made her the protectress of the revolution and the independence. Our Lady of Gua- dalupe became thus the symbol of the Mexican Church and Nation. Emperor Iturbide created 1822 an order of the Virgin of Guadalupe as highest decoration. The first president changed his name: « Felix Fernan- dez > to Guadalupe Victoria. On November 27, 1824 the Congress decreed the I2tli of December to be a National holiday. The presidents Guerrero, Alvarez, Comonfort and also Emperor Maximilian made solemn and official pilgrimages to the sanctuary of this Vir- gin. — The little settlement, which grew around the sanctuary, first known as Tepeaquillo, was made a < villa > (town) June 24, 1 751 and elevated Feb. 12, 1828 to the rank of a city under the name of Gua- dalupe-Hidalgo. In this city the treaty of peace was 378 signed between Mexico and the U. S., February 2, 1848. The large AQUEDUCT of 231 o arches, 6J miles long from the source of the river Tlalnepantla (north- west) was built 1713-49 at the cost of $I24,796« The **rESTiVAL of Guadalupe (lasting from Nov. 22 — Jan. 12) is one of the most interesting in America (see p. 99); pilgrimages are made every 12^11 of the month. The STREET CAR passes through Ca. Norte 5, over the square Santo Domingo, by Sa. Catarina, Sa. Ana, the barracks (N° 3926) and reaches beyond the Garita Corona the new and straight Highway TO Guadalupe (built 1675-76) bordered by poplars and pepper trees. The old causeway runs a little west, parallel to the new one and is ornamented with fifteen altar-stations, dedicated to the mysteries of the rosary. Formerly many a pilgrim passed over this entire road on his knees, from station to station, till he arrived before the sanctuary. It is now oc- cupied by the Mexican R. R. Near the Garita we notice toward the west (left) the Hip6dromo de Peralvillo (race course) and in the background the low range of the < Sierra de Monte Alto>; toward the east appears the depot ol the Ferrocarril HidalgO y del Nordeste ( see p. 205 ), farther away the isolated Penon de los Banos, at the shore of Lake Texcoco and in the background the lofty < Sierra Ne- vada> with its pretty foot hills (aee p. 127). About 2^ m. from Mexico are on the. eastern side of the road the iron baths of the Hacienda de Aragon (77 deg; Fah., price 13-25 cts per bath). Entering the city of Guadalupe, we cross the little river and are soon in 379 front of the large ♦Colegiata, which rises at the southern foot of the Tepeyac(ac), on a platform, par- tially surrounded by an iron railing. It was built from 1695-1709 (dedicated May i,) for the picture of the Mexican Virgin, in 1725 made a collegiate church and from 1887-9? entirely renovated by J. Agea. It has caused an expense of over one millioa pesos. The four towers are octagonal, hkewise the dome. The fagade and the western and eastern sides are decorated with Corinthian columns, niches with statues and with reliefs, referring to the miracle (see p. 375)» The INTERIOR (in renovation) has three aisles, the central nave is bordered by two rows of four high pilasters, joined by lofty arches, which carry the Ro- man vault. The side naves have flat domes. The ceiling is decorated in Byzantine style: blue heavens with golden stars. The dome is being painted with frescoes by S. Pin a. The choir is over the main entrance; opposite the same stands the magnificent tabernacle of Carrara marble to shelter the miraculous picture, decorated with two statues by C NicoLli Bishop Zumarraga (left) and the Indian Juan Diego (right). Below at the entrance of the crypt stands a fine marble statue of Archbishop Labastida by C. NicoLi: On the floor, near, the western portal, a memorial tablet of bronze, covers the tomb of Viceroy Bucareli, — Toward the east the temple is joined by the little church of the former Convento de las Capuchinas The latter was founded 1780 and suppressed Feb, 36, 1863; convent and church were dedicated 1787, In front of the same is a bronze statue of Hidalgo, 38? East from the convent is the pretty Alameda, on the northern side bordered by the old ParroquIA (the parish, built 1 706, at the site of the first chapel of 1531) and by Portales. The eastern street takes us northwards to the Moorish *Capilla del Pocito, built over the miraculous spring 1 777-91 according to the plans of F. Guerrero y Torres; renovated 1880-82. Its three domes are covered with blue and yellow tiles. The entrance hall encloses the mineral spring with brackish soda water of 70 deg: Fah. The higher central dome covers the entire chapel. In the latter are four oil paintings with the four appa- ritions and in the sacristy is an tauthentio picture of the immortal cJohn>. — West from the chapel is on the southeastern slope of the hill the MAIN ASCENT of steps, built at the end of the last century and generally besieged at its beginning by Indian women (who bake little sweet cakes of Indian corn called Quesadillas and Tortillitas), further, sellers of the benefi- cent earth (called Jabon and Tierrita) and many pious beggars. Near the Summit, at the right from the stairs appears a mast avith sails of masonry, con- structed in the last century as votive offering by the crew of a ship, which was wrecked in a heavy storm, but reached the harbor safely. The hill is crowned by the little Capilla del Tepevac, built by the Presbyter J. Montufar at the beginning of the iStt century on the place where «John> collected the roses. At its western side it is joined by the fashion- able *rANTEON DEL Tepeyac, where several notable persons are buried, as the Dictator Santa Ana, the 38i historian M. Orozco y Berra, the writer J. Ramirez (Nigromante) etc. In front of the chapel and cemetery a beautiful **View over the Valley is to be enjoy- ed (see p. 176-81). On the western ascent, pretty near the foot of the hill, is the fanciful Casa de los Te- PALCATES (entrance fee 6 cts.), ornamented with frag- ments of porcelain, forming Arabesques and figures. It is now the property of Mr. Paz Reyes, who rents it to picnic parties. West from the hill and the Cathedral extends the main square with the city- hall, a little garden and an old fountain of 1752. Tacuba— Naucalpam, Remedies— Atzcapotzalco and Tlalnepantla: The street cars to these northwestern suburbs pass first through Av. Or. 6, and turn then to cAvenida Poniente* the old highway to Tacu- ba (see p. 340 & 34.6). Beyond the Garita Me- JIA we enter a long avenue of trees, partially bor' d^red by country houses. Through the openings the fine mountain panorama comes to view ( south ap- pear Chapultepec and Dolores ). The city is joined here by the small suburb of San Antonio de las Huertas, founded by the Viceroy Mancera (1664- 73). Farther west, on the northern side of the road, is the Escuela de Agricultura y Veterinaria (see p. 225), in the former PIospicio de San Jacinto, founded 1598 for Dominican missionaries. A new school building is in construction. Then follows on the same side the old convent church of Merced de las HHcrtas (founded 1607 for the tConcepcio- 3*2 nistas>) and about 3 m. from the City, the old In- dian village Popotla ( from Aztec popotl=:broom- corn and tlan=:place; a suburb of Tacuba). On the main square rises behind a high railing the gigan- tic trunk of the famous *Arbol de la Noche Triste, the old , under which Cortes first recognized his losses, after his flight from the City (see p. 341). It stood in front of an Aztec temple. In May 1872 an attempt was made by some fanatic Indians to burn the tree down, which unfor- tunately has pretty well succeeded. The stone upon which Cortes rested to shed his tears, has disappeared. Tacuba (from Aztec: Tlacopam; tlacotl=flower pot & pan=place; village 3| m. northwest from Mexico, in prefectura Tacubaya, seat of municip: with 3,1 88 inh.; on the National R. R., fair: Nov. 16-26) was founded by the Tepaneca chief Tlacomanatzin, formed since 1430 a principality and a part of the Aztec confederation, which during the Conquest fought loyally with the besieged Mexicans to the capitulation of Mexico. The last prince Tetlepanquetzal was captured with Cuauh- temoc in 1 52 1 and died of the tortures, to which he was subjected by Cortes. Alvarado occupied the deserted Tacuba May 25, 1521, and destroyed it par- tially. The Franciscans founded here soon after their arrival, a large monastery and church, surrounded by a high wall; the latter is now the Parroquia (parish), dedicated to St, Gabriel. In the southern wall of the same are still to be seen some pillars and arches of the first church built by the Indians. The eastern wall of the cloisters of the monastery encloses an 383 Aztec antiquity, a chronological cylinder from the former temple, carved with circles, a star and discs. On the southern wall of the church hangs a from Santiago Tlaltelolco. During Holy week the Indians still represent in this church a kind of Passion play. The old churchyard is planted with olives. A little southwest from the main square, back of the Ca. del Lucero is the house of the Frenchman A. Beaudois, which stands elevated upon the platform of the Aztec TEMPLE. Southeast from the church appears the Arzobispado. About a mile west from Tacuba, on the road to San Bartolo is the Panteon Espanol; (see p. 2 1 6). From here the street-car line will soon extend farther to *San Bartolo Naucalpam (1874 officially called Villa Juarez, town 6| m. west from Mexico, seat of the municip: with 8,334 inh., in the state of Mexico, district Tlalnepantla, station of National R. R.) is very picturesquely situated at some foot hills of the Sierra de las Cruces, surrounded by many flour mills and farms. About Ij mile west from the village rises upon an iso- lated hill (Cerro de Totoltepec) the famous sanctuary of *Ntiestra Senora de los Remedios, (Our Lady of Succor). It replaced the Aztec temple of Otom- CAPULCO or Teocalhueyacan, which stood here during the Conquest and was occupied and defended by Cor- tes on July 2, 1520, after his flight from Mexico. The Captain Juan R. de Villafuente had acquired irom the churgh of Alcantara in Spain a little wooden figure of the Virgin (about eight inches high) with the Child, which he had placed in 1520 in the main 3S4 temple of Mexico, but before the flight he took it with him and hid it under some stones by a, century plant, near the temple of Otomcapulco. There it was found in 1540 by the Indian chief Juan del Aguila, a fanatic Christian, who placed it on his house-altar, to- gether with a gourd of water and some food, as if it were the Aztec goddess of water. The Franciscans of Tacuba became afterwards interested in this < miracle > and in 1553 had a little hermitage erected upon the hill and in 1574-75 a large church, which was renovat- ed in 1629 and again in the present century. Here, the figure was preserved in a shrine of glass, covered with three veils and like its Aztec antecessor on this hill, especially adored as patroness of rain and storm and protectress against certain epidemics II Each time when drougth or an epidemic threatened the country this Christian goddess of water was brought in solemn procession to Mexico, received by the Viceroy, the city council, the Archbishop and the entire clergy and carried to the Cathedral, where it was venerated with the most solemn ceremonies. A regular festival was held on the first of September, when the navy left the harbor with the royal tribute, to pray for its safe arrival in Spain! Another large feast was celebrated on Mary's Assumption day. The Spaniards chose this figure at the beginning of the wars of independence as their protectress and elevated her formally at the end of September 1810 as < General > of the royal army (see p. 377)!! When the Virgin of Succor was de- feated by that of Guadalupe ( who protected the revo- lutionises) an order was issued to banish the Spanish 385 • goddess from the country ! ! but it seems she was finally, pardoned. Woe ! Even a most miraculous Virgin may become ill-fated — if she meddles in politics !— The high group of buildings which crown the hill, appears like a fortress, but is now partially in ruin. "Behind a wide atrium, surrounded by cloisters, stands the simple church, which has lost its elegant and precious decorations. The main altar is rather new; in front of the same a slab of onyx indicates the place, where the credulous «John> encountered the image; his remains are honored by a resting-place beneath the altar. In the anti-sacristy are the paint- ings (from 1595), which illustrate the wonders of the Virgin; in the ante-camarin are good paintings by Francisco de los Angeles (from 1699), represent- ing the twelve apostles. The camarin has an elegant roof of stucco work. The AQUEDUCT of this place was built in 1620 by Alonzo T. de Guzman and repaired in 1724. but did not bring much fluid element to the sanctua- ry, in spite of the proximity of the goddess of water. The track which runs northvyards from the main- square of Tacuba leads to Atzcapotzalco (Irom Aztec: azcaputzalli=ant hill and co=in, called after the many large, red ants of this place; town 5 m. northwest from Mexico, prefectura Gua- dalupe, seat of municip: with 6,789 inh., station of Na- tional R. R.) was formerly the capital of the powerful prin- cipality of the Tepanecas (Chichimecs), founded in the I2tti century by the mysterious chieftain Xolotl the Great. The Aztcapotzalcos drove the Aztecs in 1299 from Chapultepec and conquered in 1417 Texcoco, but were 386 subjugated in 1428 by the inhabitants of Mexico. The most powerful ruler of A. was the usurper Te- zozomoc (14 18-27). Under Aztec rule A. distinguished itself as slave-market and was notorious for its good artisans. After the Conquest, the Dominicans under- took the first missionary work in this place and built here 1565 a monastery and later a large church (de- dicated Oct. 8, 1702) the latter is now the Parro- QUIA. On August 19, 1 82 1 General Bustamante fought near A. a battle against the Royalists.— The monas- tery is surrounded by a high wall, formerly de- corated with the Saints of the Dominicans. The atrium is planted with olives. In front of the church ap« pears the green cross of the Dominicans. In the tower is carved the old symbol of A. (an ant). The main altar has a good fresco by N. J. Rodriguez: cThe Holy Trinity*. Also in the cloisters of the mo- nastery are some good oil paintings; (west) St. Anna, by N. J. Rodriguez, (east). , which supplied the Aztec aqueduct to Tlaltelolco. Some pillars and other debris of the same are still to be seen. According to In- dian tradition here abides «Malintzin> (the spirit of the mountain spring), who, like Loreley, attracts the attention of passers-by with sweet and peculiar me- lodies. At midday she rises above the water and whoever happens to see her then is immediately bewitched and enamoured. It is also said, that when the water is clear, there glistens at the bottom of the spring a treasure of gold, here hidden by Prince Cuauhtemoc: the cNiebelungen Hort> of Mexico. From Atzcapotzalco the street-car line extends about 3| miles father north, through fields of corn and century plants to Tlalnepantla (from Aztec tlalli= earth and nepantla=between, because it formed the boundary between the Aztec and the Otomite country; town 8^ m. northwest from Mexico, in the slate of Mexico, near the foot of the < Sierra de Guadalupe >, on the river of T., station of the Central and Nation- 388 al R. R's; seat of the district and municip: with 7398 inh.). South from the green main square stands behind a high wall the large Parroquia built with mo- nastery by the Franciscans, probably from 1 583-87, re- novated 1666. About ll m. southeast from T. is the village Tenayoca, once capital of the Chichimecs. La Piedad, Mizcoac, I.a Castaneda and San An- gel are directly reached by the street car line and the Valley R. R. The former passes through Av. Or and Po. 6, Ca. Sur 4, and Av. Po. 20 to the Gari TA P. Diaz. From here it tarns south through Ca Sur 12, leading to the suburb La Piedad (2^ m from Mexico), passing (west) the Tivoli Petit Ver- sailles and the Panteon General, (east) the pret ty Panteon Frances (see p. 216) and in the back ground the Santuario de la Piedad. This is a large votive monastery church, built by the Dominicans for a fine picture of , painted in Rome and said to have saved the lives of its bearers during a heavy storm. The church was dedicated Feb, 2, 1652 and contains in the sacristy some good paintings by Cabrera and Velazquez. — From the church the track turns southwest to San Borja ( with ruins of large graineries ) and runs then through the old garden village of Mixcoac (from mixcoatl, god of the chase, 5| m. from Mex- ico, station of Valley R. R., prefectura Tacubaya, seat of municip: with 2,252 inh.). About half a mile east from this village is the large and picturesque Tivoli 389 of La Castaneda (see p. 209 & 218). The street car line continues south to San Angel (see below). Chaptiltepec, Dolores, Tactibaya and San An- gel: These southwestern suburbs too can be reached by street-car or by the Valley R. R. ( see p. 206 & 209). The street-cars to Tacubaya pass through the Calzada DE Chapultepec, with the remains of the aqueduct. At the end of the latter rises the **Castle of Chapul- tepec (see p. 352). South from its park are the Water Works (see p. 356) and the municipal Nur- sery OF Plants (see p. 230). Opposite the same is the depot of the street-car lines. From here a side track leads northwest, to the Panteon de Dolores (see p. 216) passing the Molino del Rey a flour mill, about | m. from Chapultepec). This mill was car- ried, together with the near Casa Mata on the morn- ing of Sep. 8, 1847 ^y t^^ North American troops; Lieutenant Grant was one of the first who entered the mill. —The main line continues from Chapultepec directly to Tactibaya (degenerated from the Aztec: Atlacui- huayan, atlacuihuani=rwater pitcher; city 4.^ m. south- west from Mexico, at the foot hills of the « Sierra dte las Cruces>, at the river Piedad, station of the Valley R. R., seat of prefectura and municip:, with 12,027 inh.) is known as the city of the political martyrs, of gardens and gambling hells. The Aztecs founded Atlacui- HUAYan about 1270, during their pilgrimage through the Valley, upon the hill above the present city. Here they invented a new weapon, therefore called , a kind of sling. After the Conquest the 390 place became property of Cortes, forming a part of the Marquesado del Valle. la 1 59 1 the Dominicans founded here a mission at the foot of the hill, around which the new city grew. From 1740 it became the residence of the archbishops, after the Independence that of some presidents (Santa Ana and Comonfort) and from 1863-83 the seat of the Military College. On Sep. 28, 1 841, Santa Ana formed here the plaa of a revolution (Las Bases de T.); on Sep. 17, 1857 a protest was here made against the new constitution. In T. was also fought a battle between the Liber- als under Degollado and the Conservatives under Marquez on April ii, 1859, in which the former were beaten and lost afterwards many of their leaders by cruel executions. On account of the latter event the city is called «La Ciudad de los Martlres*. The an- niversary of this day is celebrated here each year. The principal charm of the city are its many beauti- ful villas and gardens, unfortunately hidden by high walls. The parks are arranged in English fashion, with magnificent groves of trees, flower-beds with rare plants, idyllic bowers, caves and bridges, charm- ing fountains and ponds, pavilions, play - grounds, baths etc. They can only be seen during the winter on direct application to the owners, who are then living in Mexico. Entering the city, the little green Plaza de la Ermita is first reached. West from the same, at the corner of the cross-way to San An- gel stands the stately portal which forms the entrance to the fine *Park of Mr. Antonio de MiER. In the main street (Ca. Juarez), opposite the park, is the 391 Teatro Apolo and the BiBLioTECA Publica (see p. 230), at the next corner of 4.-'^ Ca. Juarez the pretty re- sidence of Secretary Romero RuBio and the TivoLi de Cartagena ( after caudlemass one of the principal gambling places). The little cross-street (Ca. Porfirio Diaz) takes us northwards to the Ca. Cartagena^ which leads to the little square of same name. Be- fore reaching the latter, we pass the entrance to the elegant *. North from the latter (in Ca. Torres Torija) is the handsome *« Residence of Mrs. Teresa Hueller>. East from this place near the side track of the street car line is one of the mysterious springs (this being created by the blessing of a priest) under the shade of an evergreen tree, the Arbol bendito. Climbing the hill behind the garden of Mrs. Hueller and turn- ing then westwards through , The under part of the walls of the church are inlaid with tiles. The sacristy has a pretty stucco ceiling and the lavatorium a handsome wash-stand of tiles. The fascinating old monastery has in the center of the courtyard a foun- tain of tiles. In the garden behind the same is a neglected fish pond and in the refectory are some fragments of fine frescoes as reminder of its lost beauty. Northwest from the main square is the pret- ty Alameda. Tizapan, Contreras, La Canada and El Desier- to: The environs of San Angel are very romantic and afford many lovely excursions. The nearest and easiest to access is the idyllic suburb of *Tizapan, about i^ m. southwest from the former, at the foot of the lava bed (Pedregal) and on a little brook. T. is ac- tually the terminus of the Valley R. R. This idyllic brook is bordered by trees and forms near the cotton-manu- factory La Hormiga a pretty cascade. — A very trying but picturesque ride is that to Contreras and from there to La Canada ( 5i m. southwest from S. A.) The former place is reached by a tbus> (guayin, leaving from main square in S. A. at 10 a. m., price $0.25, which passes by the way of Tizapan (l^ m.), over the bridge of Padierna (3^ m.) — west from the same is the battle-field, where Scott defeated the 394 Mexicans Aug. 20, 1847— and down to the manu- facturing village of Contreras (4^ m.). From here we take the road to the near village La Magdalena and enter after about half -an -hour's walk the thickly wooded ravine **La Canada, one of the most pictures- que places of the- Valley: with murmuring brook, fra- grant woods, high and bare rocks and an old bridge. At the farm horses can be rented and a guide obtained for a ride to the romantic ruins of the Carmelite monastery and hermitage **E1 Desierto (about 4^ ra. northwest from the « Canada >). This place with its springs, ruins neglected garden, caves and mountain panorama, is doubtless more charming than the Canada, but it is much harder to get there. The springs supply the larger aqueduct of Santa Fe (see p. 170). Coyoacan and Churttbusco: East from San An- gel extends a chain of country houses and gardens to the road of Tlalpam, forming idyllic little villages as San Antonio Chimalistac with its brook and bridge, its avenue and chapel at the foot of the gray lava bed Pedregal (see p. 140). It is joined by Santa Catarina and the historic town of CoyoacaBTfSom" Aztec coyotl=wolf, huacan=place where are kepEf prefectura Tlalpam, seat of municip; with 7,018 inh: l| m. east from S. A.). At the time of the Con- quest this was a city of about 6,000 (?) houses with many temples and palaces. The principal occupation of the inhabitants was then salt manufacturing. Near it was the famous spring of Acuecuexco, whose waters were conducted by prince Ahuitzotl to Mexico and caused its inundation in 1498. During the siege 395 it was occupied by Captain Olid May 27, 1521, After the destruction of Mexico it became the seat of the first Spanish government from Aug. 1521 to the end of 1523. Cortes built here a palace and made the place a part of his property (Marquesado del Valle). Here the brave prince Cuauhtemoc was kept prisoner with many other chieftains and on August 2l(?) tortured together with the chief of Tacuba, in order to reveal the supposed hidden treasures, Both were tied to beams, their hands and feet were oiled and then roasted under fire. The old chief of Tacuba was not able to bear this horrible suffering and looked once somewhat re- proachfully, toward Cuauhtemoc, as if he wished to ask him to satisfy the thirst for gold of the Christian barbarians. T}ie great heathen, the heroic Aztec prince, replied coolly: Am I perhaps in a bath or in the midst of pleasure ? In this « palace ? Cortes mur- dered his wife Catalina Juarez Marcaida, in his bed, after a ball, because she reproached his amours with the Indian girls. This < palace*, a low and unsightly house, occupies still the north side of the main square. In the center of the back building the chapel is still to be recognized. Opposite stands the large monas- tery church of the Dominicans, completed April 5, 1552, renovated 1602, 1604. etc; it is now the Parro- QUIA. This tov/n is a favorite residence of the En- glish and American colony. — About a mile further east, a little north from the street-car track, appears the little village of Churubasco (from Aztec Huit- ZILIPOCHCO, place of the god of war) surrounded by caves and springs, fields of corn and century plants. 396 Tivith an old monastery of the Franciscans, dedicated May 2, 1678 to St. Matthew, which possesses fine tile work. Fortified during the war with the Americans, it was carried after a gallant defense of three hours hy General Worth. Asking the Mexican general Anaya about the ammunition surrendered, the latter answered bravely: Had I ammunition, you would not be herel On the plaza in front of the church in 1 856 was erected a monument, around which each year a com- Tnemorative festival is celebrated. The street-car makes near this place connection with the Tlalpam line. Tlalpam ( from Aztec : tlalli-earth, pam=upon, formerly called fSan Agustin de las Cuevas>, manu- facturing city II m. south from Mexico, on the foot of the Sierra de Ajusco, seat of jorefectura and mu- siicip: with 8,831 inh., with protestant theological seminary etc) is another of the picturesque garden cities of the Valley, surrounded by green hills, woods, caves and springs. The street cars pass through Ca. Sur 7 (see p. 250) and enter beyond the Garita Zaragoza the straight highway to T., bordered by swampy meadows and fields, some farms and little Tillages. In the background rise the high mountain ranges. From the Garita the cars are moved by steam. The first station is La Ladrillera (4^ m.) then follows Churubusco (5f m.; see p. 395), the farms of San Antonio ( 7^ m.), and of Coapa (8| m.). The lava bed at the west is the Pedregal (see p. 140): at the foot of the same is also the village 397 of Huipulco (9| m.), station of the diligence to Cuernavaca.— Tlalpam was early settled by the Spa- niards, the first church being built 1532. Afterwards it became residence of the viceroys and ill-famed for its festivals at Whitsuntide, celebrated with gambling and cock-fights. In 1827 Tlalpam was made a city and from 1827-30 capital of the state of Mexico, with a mint (1828-30). The main street leads up hill to the pretty Plaza principal, with the old Par- PvOQUiA, northeast from the same is a villa with a slender tower, the Torre de Santa Ines, where Mo- relos was kept prisoner Nov. 21-22, 1813. Northwest from the city is the neglected Calvario and the Alameda. Near the same are the two cotton ma- nufactories La Fama (founded 1 831) and San Fer- nando and the paper-mill Pena Pobre. Santa Anita, Ixtacalco and Ixtapalapan: These Indian villages, situated south from Mexico, on the Canal de la Viga (see p. 318) are especially inter- esting on account of the **Chinampa3, the famous Floating Gardens, invented by the Aztecs about 1380, on the advice of god Huitzilopochtli, upon Lake Texcoco, now converted into solid little islands about 10-15 ft. broad and 300-350 ft. long. Here you are still reminded of the Aztec island-city, of Aztec cus- toms and language. The little gable-huts (jacales) are made of straw and adobe and the courts enclosed by reeds or cacti. The principal occupation of their inhabitants is the cultivation and sale of vegetables and flowers, fishing and the boat traffic. The greatest time is at Lent and Easter; the sale of flowers in 398 this period alone is estimated at $14,000.— The street car to these places passes through the popular south- eastern quarter and the Paseo de la Viga, by the little suburb of Jamaica (see p. 319) and the Garita Iglesias. It continues then on the eastern side of the canal. The next village is *Santa Anita (2| m.), where the «Chinampas> are most easily accessible (price for a boat ride 25 cts). Then follows Ixtacal- CO (from Aztec; iztatli=salt, calli=house and co=in, 3 J m., prefectura Tlalpam seat of municip: with 3127 inh.) founded by the errant Aztecs 1309. The village of Mexicaltzingo ( from Aztec mexitl=god, calli= house, tzin = little, co=in, 5f m., formerly also called Acatzintitlan) was founded 1304. Here the track leaves the canal and turns eastwards to *Ixtapalapa (from iztapallii=slab of stone, atl^=water, pam=above; 8 m., southeast, at the foot of the isolated Cerro de la Estrella, prefectura Tlalpam, seat of municip: with 3,825 inh. On the summit of the hill (see p. 137) stood the temple of the god of fire and there was celebrated every 52 years the beginning of a new period (see p. 250). At the time of the Conquest this was an important city, famous for its botanical garden, hot mineral baths and the manufactory of soda. It was then the residence of the heroical Cuitiahuac, the brother of Moctezuma II., who on Nov. 8, 15 19 received here Cortes and his followers and drove him out of Mexico on the Dismal Night. During the siege it was occupied by Captain Sandoval May 3Ij 1 52 1. The modern village is rather miserable, but its inhabitants are very fanatic in religion. In the 399 old *Parroquia are still exhibited at the main altar the figure of the blue moon and the yellow sun, the venerated objects of their antecessors!! A little south of this church is the chapel of the San- to Entierro, where passion plays are given. Near the same, at the northern foot of the hill is a ve- nerated cave and spring. On the eastern slope are the ruins of the steam baths called Bang de Mocte- ZUMA, upon the summit the ruins (foundation) of the lormer temple of Xiuhtecutli. The hill contains many caves and is surrounded by sulphur springs. From here a splendid **View is to be enjoyed over the Valley. At the eastern foot of the hill is the old Aztec town of Colhuacan, founded 669 by the Chi- chimecs, now an insignificant village. Peiion de los Bafios (3^ m. east from Mexico) is noteworthy for the hot soda baths and the inter- esting legend connected with this place, called by the Aztecs: Acopilco (see p. 195). The street cars pass through Av. Or. 7, by the Penitenciaria (in con- struction) and stop in front of the new bath esta- blishment *Banos del Penon, now the property of Secretary Romero Rubio. They contain besides the baths, also hotel and restaurant (baths $0.50-1.00, rooms $2-4 per day, meals $0.75; see p. 142). East from the rock (see p. 137) extends the picturesque Lago de Texcoco (see p. 141). 400 A DILIGENCE RIDE. Cuernavaca can at present only be reached by a trying mountain trip per diligence (see p. 206). It follows to Huipulco (see p. 397) the same line as the street-cars to Tlalpam. From there the road turns south- east toward the shore of Lake Xochimilco. Near the road are the villages of Tepepa and La Noria. About 1 3 m. east from the latter appears the old Indian city Xochimilco (from xochitl=flower, railli= garden; 12 m. south from Mexico, on the western shore of Lake X., seat of prefectura and municip: with 14,373 inh.) founded 1 194. by the Acolhuas, with large market, 1 430 conquered by the Aztecs, 1521 by the Spaniards. It has a large monastery built by the Franciscans and many olive gardens. —From Noria be- gins the winding ascent upon the mountain range, offering many beautiful views over the Valley, turn- ing west to ToPiLEjo and GUARDA (8,501 ft.) and thea southwest to the summit by *Cruz del Marques, (9,826 ft. above sea level). The road descends south- wards, via Sacapexco and Huitzilac till it opens into the interesting and picturesque Valley of Cuernavaca. *Cuernavaca ( Cuauhnahuac: coahuitl-woods and nahuac=near, 5047 ft. above sea level since 1869 capital of the state of Morelos, seat of district and muni- cip: with 7,195 inh., since 1891 seat of bishopric; pos- sesses public library, museum, theatre, protestant church etc. Fair Dec. 8-15.— Best Hotel and Restaurant « Diligencias j). It lies half hidden between two ravines, 401 is very irregular extending in a long and narrow stripe, surrounded by gardens and avenues, springs and cascades. It was formerly property and residence of Cortes and here the Franciscans founded Jan. 2, 1529 one of their most important monasteries, of which the church is now the Parroquia. (parish). Noteworthy are further the Jardin Borda, a pretty park and the house of Cortes still known as Casa del Marques. — In the vicinity are of special interest: the picturesque village Acapancingo, the cascade of Saa Anton, the farm of Temixco, the sanctuary of Chalma the ruins of the Aztec fortress and sanctuary of **XocHI- CALCO and the Aztec graves and temple of *Tepoz- TITLAN. C. is also one of the starting points to the famous cave of **Cacahuamilpa (state Guerrero). RAILROAD TRIPS. ^he Centml R. R. to Tula; the Hidalgo R. R. to Pachuca; tlie" Interoceanic to Puebia and Cuautla; Mexican R. R. to Puebla and Pacliuca; the National R. R. to Toluca and the Valley R. R. to Tizapan, g^Compare; Railroads, Depots and Offices, p. 204-6 and the description of the Valley, p. 116-73.^; Central R. R. to Tula: Running northwest (pa- rallel with the branch line of the National R. R. be- tween large farms the track passes after 7^ miles. Tlal- nepantla, (see p. 387) ascends by the farm San Rafael the low, western beginning of the Sierra de Guadalupe and descends again from Barrientos (ll 402 m.) to Lecheria (13 m.). The R. R. enters the district of Cuautitlan and soon its capital (17^ m. from M., idyllic garden town, seat of municip: with 5,436 inh.) founded 650 by the Chichimecs, in the 12th century occupied by the Aztecs who learned here the extrac- tion of the pulque. The Cerro de Tlajomulco at the east hides the swampy Lake Xaltocan (see p. 141). The next station, the old Indian village Teoloyucan is also terminus of a branch line of the Hidalgo R. R. Near the village of Huehuetoca (20 ra. founded 673, at the foot of the Cerro de Siocoque) the Central and National R. R's leave the Valley at the bank of the famous *Canal de Huehuetoca (see p. 145), which passes the old village Nochistongo (32^ m.) and terminates in the state of Hidalgo, at the ca!§cade and station El Salto (39 J m.). Entering a narrow valley there is soon reached, *Tula, the famous Tollan, capital of the Toltec empire, (from Tollin=:reed: town, 49I m. from M., seat of district and municip: with 5,834 inh., on the river Moctezuma; station of Central R. R. to El Paso and to Pachuca: Hotel «Diligencias>, Restaurant at the depot, both very poor). T. was founded by the Otomites as tMamenhi*; in 713 (?) occupied by the Toltecs till the destruction of their empire in 1 1 16. Here, the pretty sXochitb inspired prince Tecpancaltzin with a bowl of pulque, to love and marry her. After the Conquest the Franciscans built 1553-61 a large monastery and church in the style of a fortress; the latter is now the Parroquia, and de- dicated to St. Joseph. Upon the hills (Cerro del Te- 403 soro etc) are interesting *ruins of castles, temples and arched houses. The Hidalgo R. R. to Pachuca: Turns northeast and follows first the same direction as the Mexican R. R., passing near Guadalupe (see p. 374) to the eastern foot of the Sierra of G. and the district of Tlalnepantla, not far from the shore of Lake Tex- coco. Beyond the farm of Atzacoalco (6 m.) the Hidalgo R. R., crosses the Mexican R. R. and passes near the canal of the new Hydraulic Works (see p. 150), crosses the same and approaches the town San Cristobal Ecatepec (13 m. from M., south from Lake San Cristobal, on the Canal del Desagtie, dis- trict Tlalnepantla, seat of municip: with 6,984 inh.) where the patriotic priest Morelos was shot Dec. 22, 18 1 5. The road continues between Lake San Cris- tobal-Xaltocan (west) and the Sierra de Chico- nautla (east), passes the large farms Ojo de Agua (18 m.) and Santa Ana (22|- m.) and reaches be- yond the Cerro Xoloc the state Hidalgo. From Ti- zayuca (31.7 m.) a branch line leads southwest to Teoloyuca (47 m., see p. 402) passing the city of Zumpango (39 m. from M., on the lake of Zumpango, state of Mexico, seat of district and municip; with 9,539 inh.) Here the Canal of the new Hydraulic Works will unite with the Tunnel of Tequixquiac (see p. 150). From Tizayuca the main line turns east to the Sierra de los Pitos, passes the villages Tezonte- PEC (41.6 m.) and San Agustin (48.4 m.), from where another branch line leads southeast via Tla- nalapa (57 m.) to Irolo (65.8 m.). Here connection 404 is made with the Interoceanic 8c Mexican R. R. — From the farm of Tepa (52.1 m.), the next station on the main road, a third branch line extends northeast via SOMORRIEL (65 m.) and Las Lajas to the pict- uresque valley and city of *Tulancingo.'— The main line proceeds beyond Tepa, parallel with the Mex- ican R. R., via the farm of Xochihuacan (57.1 m.) to the northeastern corner of the Valley and the old and prosperous mining city *Pachuca (from pachoa=narrow pass; since 1869 capital of the state of Hidalgo, 68| m. from M., 8068 ft. above sea level, terminus of Central, Hidalgo and Mexican R. R's, at the foot of the Sierra de P., seat of district and municip: with 21,000 inh., possesses since 1869 a college or cinstituto literario>, a practical mining school, public library, observatory, the Teatro Medina, 2 street car lines etc. Fair: Sept. 30 — Oct. 8. Climate: cool, changeable, dry and dusty; medium temperate 56" Fah:, barometer 22.4 inch., humidity 62%, rainy days 123 with 17.47 inch, rain, prevailing wind N. E. The Depots are southwest from the city. Hacks and Street-Cars wait for trains. Best Hotels and Restaurants: San Carlos, Plaza Cinco de Mayo, 32 rooms, $0.50—1.25, meals 62 cts; Me- tropolitano, rooms 50-75 cts; meals 62 cts; Ca- SA DE Diligencias, 8 rooms at $i.oo. El Alci- DES, meals 37 cts.) — The mines of P. were alrea- dy worked by the Aztecs and rediscovered soon af- ter the Conquest by a Spanish cowboy. The little village of Pachuquilla (5 m. southeast) is one of the earliest settlements of the Spaniards. The ore con- 405 sists of sulphuric silver, enclosed in quartz; the veins are in porphyry, running mostly south. The northern Cerro San Juan (or Magdalena) has the most veins, among them the famous Veta de los Analcos. In 1557 the miner Bartolome de Medina discovered here the system of amalgamation called cproceso de patio*. During the wars of Independence P. was often ransacked and mining was very neglected. In 1843 the powerful Companfa del Real del Monte es- tablished itself here and since 1850 again great for- tunes have been acquired. P. is one of the most char- acteristic Mexican mining cities. It is confined in two narrow defiles at the entrance of the bare, porphyritic Sierra de P. extending from south to north between the Cerro San Crist6bal (west) and Cayetano. The streets are therefore rather irregular and many of the houses are < hanging* on the slopes. The most interesting features of the city are the Mines (Minas) with their pumps and hoists and the extensive Amal- gamation Works (Haciendas de Beneficio). The most important and interesting mines are: San Juan at the northern hill of the city (the shaft San Pedro is actually the deepest in Mexico: 1,645 ^t.); Santa Gertrudis, about ij m. east from the city; La Trini- dad, which yielded in ten years 40 million pesos; El Rosario, etc. The . largest Amalgamation works are the Hacienda de Guadalupe, Loreto, Progreso, San Francisco etc. In the main street, Ca. de Hidalgo, are noteworthy: the monastery church of San Fran- cisco dedicated 1660; the tCasa Colorada*, built as corn exchange at the end of the l8tli century by the 4o6 Count of Terreros." The Plaza de la Constitucion with the Portales, Palacio de Gobierno, ruin of the old Castillo, the Parroquia, the Mercado, (greatest day Sunday) and a monument of Hidalgo (erected 1888). Farther north is the fortress-like building of Las Cajas, erected 1670 by the Marquis of Mancera as deposit of quicksilver, since 1850 property of the Compaiiia del Real del Monte. In the vicinity are noteworthy the picturesque mining towns Real del Monte, Atotonilco el Grande and El Chico, the valley of Huasca etc. Interoceanic R. R. to Puebla: This picturesque road runs southeast near the Canal San Lazaro to the southern shore of Lake Texcoco and reaches after ii.i m. the village Los Reyes, the starting point of the branch line to the state of Morelos (Jojutla). The main line turns then northeast, near the eastern shore of the lake, passing by the farm San Vicente (i6|- m.) to the old Chichimee city of Texcoco (from Texcotli=flower of the rock, i| m. east from the lake and 23^ m. from M., seat of district and municip: with 17,601 inh.). It was founded by the Toltecs as Cattenichco, rebuilt by the Chichimecs or Acolhuas, who made it in 1298 the capital of their principality and famous for its temples, palaces and gardens. Prince Netzahualcoyotl made it the < Athens > of the New World. Cortes received here 152 1 the «bergantinesj from Tlaxcala and organized his troops for the siege of Mexico. The Franciscans founded in this place the second of their monasteries. The main square occupies the place of the Aztec palace 407 and is now adorned with a statue of Netzaliualcoyotl, the Mexican Pericles. Near the city are some ruins of temple pyramids. In JIuexotla are remains of pa- laces, near *Coatlinchan lies a colossal goddess of water, in *Texcotzinco are ruins of an aqueduct and near the farm El Contadero a grove of ahuehue- tes. Passing the farms of Escudero (31 m.) and Me- TEPEC (37.8 m.) the old city of Otumba (42I m.) is reached; near which Cortes defeated the Aztecs in 1520; then follows the castle-like hacienda SoAPAYUCA (46 m.) and further La Palm a, where the Interoceanic and Mexican R. R's leave the Valley and enter 'by Irolo (55.9 m.) the plain of Apam and the state of Hidalgo. Beyond San Lorenzo the important state and picturesque valley of Puebla is entered and Anal- ly its cheerful capital; Puebla (city 1 29I ra. southeast from M. 7,059 ft., above sea level) seat of district and municip: with 77,530 inh. manufacturing and commercial city, seat of Bish- opric, on the rivers Atoyac and San Francisco, station of Interoceanic, Mexican, Southern and Industrial R. R's. It possesses, Cathedral, various colleges,' a school of medicine, 2 libraries, an art gallery, museum, ob- servatory, 2 theatres, market hall, hospitals, electric light, complete street car lines, sulphur baths etc. Best Hotels and Restaurants: Magloire, Diligen- cias, America etc.). This sympathetic city is regularly built on a gently sloping hill, surrounded by the isolated hills Loreto^=:Guadalupe and San Juan and in greater distance by the high cone of Malinche and 14 4o8 the Sierra Nevada. P. was founded by the Francis- cans April l6j 1532, by the advice of the angels who appeared to the Bishop Julian Garces, therefore still called «P. de los Angeles >. It was captured by Iturbide 1 82 1, by Scott 1847, defended by general Za^:agoza against the French May 5, 1862, occupied by the French 1863 and regained by Diaz April 2, 1867. In this city are most noteworthy: *Cathe- DRAL, built 1536 — 1649, monastery church of * San Francisco finished 1667, Jesuit church La CoxMPANIA finished 1690, the hospital church San Cristobal, the little Museum and Art G/VLLery, the interesting Mercado, the fortress Guadalupe with magnificent view over the valley, the tile houses etc; in the vicinity: the pyramid of Cholula, the ruins of Tlax. GALA etc. The Branch Line to Cuautla-Morelos: turns from Los Reyes (see p. 406) southeast between the hills of Sa. Catarina and Acosac to the district and Lake Chal- co, which may be visited from the olive village Ayotla (15^ m.). From La Compania (21. i ra.) a street car line runs west to the idyllic town Chalco (22.3 m. seat of district and municip: with 3,313 inh., founded 999? by the Xicos, converted by the Franciscans) and south to Amecameca (37.6 m.), passing the picturesque town *Tlalmanalco (29.8 m. southeast from M., seat of municip; with 4,699 inh., with the pretty ruin of the Franciscan monaste- ry). Near Tenango (29 m.) the train cUmbs the Sierra Nevada and soon reaches the romantic mountain city **Amecameca (36 m. from M,, 8,213 ft. above -1-09 sea level; at the foot of the venerated **Cerro del Sa- CROMONTE, in district Chalco, seat of municip: with 10,488 inh. — Hotel del Ferrocarril has pretty view but poor accomodations, price $1.50-2.00). A was founded 647 by the Chichimecs, convexted by the Dominicans and is now famous as starting place for the ascent of the. Popocatepetl and Ixtaccihuatl (see p. 129-35). Best guides: brothers Meodizabal. Best TIME FOR ascent: Jan.— May. Ascent of either of the mountains requires 2 days from A. and costs with guides and horses $18-20 pro person. Take provisions, blue spectacles, blankets, opera glass with you from Mexico =:leather straps, sandals and some flannel may be bought in A. From Ozumba (48^ ra. ) the road winds to the state of Morelos via Nepantla and Yecapixtla and passes through the plain to the pretty garden city of C*autla-Morelos, Mexican R. R. to Pachuca and Puebla ( take right hand seat); It runs parallel with the Hidalgo R. R. passing Crttadalupe (see p. 874) and turns near Tepexpan (20^ m.) northeast to the town and pyramids **San Juan Teotihuacan (from Teotl— god, ihua=s message, can=place, 27J m. N. W. from M., in district Texcoco, seat of municip; with 4,59 1 inh,). This mys- terious place of < God's revelations was founded by the Chichimecs of Nonoalco; in 674 occupied by the Toltecs, 1120 by the Chichimecs under Xolotl and formed since I23l a principality of Acolhuacan, the governor being the president of the martial court. T. was the Del- phi or Rome of the Aztecs, a sanctuary and place of pilgrimage. According to their religious legends, here 410 were created: sun, moon and men and the gods required sacrifices. Near the depot f re some remains of houses and farther northwest is a rectangular fortress La Cru- DADELA (19.7 ft. high and 636x1,908 ft. broad and long). Upon its walls are mounds 32-49 ft. high). Near this fortress runs a long street, 76 ft. broad, from south to north, known as, MiccAOTLi or < Street of the Dead*, bordered by terraces with ruins of palaces and the two famous artificial mounds, situated i| m. northeast from the village. The largest, the pyramid OF THE SUN is 216.5 ft., the PYRAMID OF THE MOON 150.9 ft. high and | m. south from the former. — The road runs from here parallel with the Inter- oceanic R. R. Otumba (34I m.) and La Palma (38^ m., see p. 407). From the farm Ometusco (42.2 m.) runs the branch line to Pachuca (see p. 404) and from Apizaco (87 m.) to Puebla (see p. 407). National R. R. to Toluca (take left hand seatt); This road offers one of the most picturesque rides in the world. Running southwest through the Valley, it passes first Tacuba (see p. 382) the division point of the BRANCH LINE to El Salto (see p. 402) and Naucalpan (see p. 383) and ascends then the wooded « Sierra de las Cruces* via Rio Hondo (8.7 m.) and Dos Rios (17 J m.), crossing several times its rushing mountain streams. Near the latter place lies neglected a kind of calender stone called, *Piedra de la Luna (Stone of the Moon). Soon two large bridges are cross- ed over deep ravines; the first, San Francisquito Is 461 ft., the second, the curved Viaducto del Lau- rel is 275 ft. long. The summit is reached at the 411 station La Cumbre 10,551 ft. above sea level: where Hidalgo won a battle Oct. 10, 1810. Descending to Salazar and Jajalpa, the road reaches at Ocoyoa- cac the fine valley of Toluca and the lake, river and city of Lerma and entersafter 453 m. the picturesque and friendly Munich of Mexico Toluca (from tollin=reed, city 8,6 1 o ft. above sea level, capital of the state of Mexico, seat of dis- trict and municip: with 48,098 inh., at the foot of the porphyry and granite hills of the Sierra de T., on the river Xicualtenco, near the extinguished volcano T., station of the National and San Juan R. R's, it possesses 6 squares and 6,1 lo houses, college or < Institute cientifico y literario>, observatory, library, museum and permanent agricultural exposition, market hall, 2 theatres, a large brewery, oil- and cotton- manufactories etc;- the climate is cool, middle tem- perature 55.5° Fah: — Best Hotels and Restaurants: Leon de Oro and La Gran Sociedad). — It was con- quered 1520 by Sandoval, about 1677 made a city and is now famous for its < Lager beer>, cheese, sausages, quince- and blackberry - wine and laces. Noteworthy are in the city: chapel of the Tercer Orden, parish San Jose, finished 1575, *Mercado (greatest day Friday), *Museum, Alameda, the holy claw tree or Macpaxochill (see p. 25) on the Cerro de Coa- tepec etc. The Valley R. R. to Tizapan passes La Piedad, Tacubaya, Mixcoac and San Angel parallel with the street cars to same places (see p. 388-93). <1> CHAPTERS: (Full contents are given at the head of each of them.) Announcements. Preface I-IV. Introduction: Mexico of to day: I. The country and its people 1 II. National Institutions, Wealth and In- dustry 56 in. Travel in Mexico 91 City and Valley of Mexico: I. The Valley of Mexico I17 II. The City of Mexico 174 III. Street Rambks. 233 TV. Excursions through the Valley. . . . 874. Index 412 Errata 425 Announcements. 413 SUBJECTS: (Alphabetically according to places. For words preceded by "el," "la" "or las" and "los" (the) see main word— by San or Santo (Saint), "S". For siibjects of general infonnation of the Republic see Mexico, Rep: — for traveling, "Travel in Mexico"). (i^colman 128, 163. C^^cosac, serrania 135. Actopan 162. Ajusco, sierra de 127, 139. Amecameca 403. Apasco 163. Apizaco 410. Aragon, iron-baths 142, 378. Aranda, cerro 127. Atenco 163. AUantla 163. Atotonilco el Chico 163. Atotonilco el Grande 285. Atzcapotzalco 385. Axapusco 163. Ayapango 163. Ayotla, 136, 403. Ayotzingo 1 63. fanos del Peiion 142, 397. ^adena, hill 138. Canada, la 394. Casa Mata 389. Castaiieda, la 218, 389, 392- Chalco 128, 141, 403. Chapultepec 139, 352. Chavarria, 128. Chiautla 163. Chicoloapan 1 63. Chiconautla, sierra 128, 138. Chiconcuac 163. . Chimalhuacan 137, 163. Chimalistac, San Anto- nio 394. Chinampas 397. Churubusco 395. Coacalco 162. Coatlinchan 407. Cocotitlan 163. Colhuacan 284, 399, Compafiia, la 403. Contadero, el, 407, Contreras 394. Coyoacan 394. Coyotepec 163 = 414 Cruces, Sierra de las 12 8j Ixtapaluca, 163 138, 400. Cuaulitlan, 140, 402. Cuautla Morelos 409. Cuautzingo 163. ^Cuernavaca 400. Cuevas, las 127. Cumbre, la 41 1. i^esierto, el 394. <^istrito Federal 161. Dolores, panteon de 389-1^ (CiryY Dos Rios 410. ^J^EXICO <^^^T^> Academies 224. Acordada, la 346. ^palpan, cerro 1 27. ^altenco, 163. Jamaica, 398. Jiloncingo, loma 127. Juchitepec, cerro 127. ^.q^agdalena, la 163, m 394. Mexicaltzingo 398- ,'p^catzingo 163. (^pazoyucan 163. Espana, loma 127. Estrella, cerro de la 137, 398, 399- floating Gardens ^X3 397. .^achupines, cerro 139. c^ordo, cerro, 138. Guadalupe-Hidalgo, 99, 128,139,142,143,374 Guerrero, cerro, 139. yastahuacan 162. idalgo, state 163. Huehuetoca 402. Huexotla 407. Huypoxtla 163. Huipulco 397. Iluisquilucan 1 63. ^T^tnrbide 163. oxtacalco 398. Ixtaccihuatl 133, 313. Ixtapalapa(n), 142, 283. 398. M Administracion principal de coches 249. Aduana 207, 364. Aguilita, square 316. Ahuitzotl relief 355. Alberca Pane 212, 349. Alameda 128, 342. American Hospital 213, 357- Archbishop 215. Area of city 189. Arrival 204. Art Gallery 228, 294, 301. Art, history of 295. Arzobispado 371. Atarazanas, las 3 12. Avenida Oriente 4, 330. Avenida Poniente 340, 343, 356. Avenida Poniente 4, 3461 Balvanera 316, 415 MEXICO (City): MEXICO (City): Banco Nacional 231, 333. Banks 231. Bath festival 98, 350, Baths, public (^banos) 212 Bazaine, residence 358. Bazar of old books 247. Belem de los Padres 349. Belem (Municipal prison) 349. Benediction ol animals 320. Biblioteca Nacional 229, 325. Birds- eye- view 1 76. Boarding houses 212. Boot-blacks 213. Botanical Garden 230. Bucarelli, paseo de 347. Euenavista, plazuela 358. Eullfight-rings ( plazas de toros) 218. Camara de DipuUdos, 372. Carapo Florido 348. Candelaria, plazuela de la 314. Carmen 366. Carriages (hacks) 209. Casa de Correos 259. Casa del Conde de San- tiago 329. Casa de los Azulejos, 337. Casa de los Mascarones 357. Casa de INIoneda 366. Cathedral 238. Cemeteries ( panteones ) 215. Cemetery, American and English, 216, 356. Chapultepec 139, 352. Charles IV., monument 347. Churches 214. Cinco de Mayo, Ca. 332, Circo Teatro Orrin 360. City Hall 248. Climate 1 90. Clubs, Societies, Qrders 219. Colegio de las Vizcay- nas 324. Colegio de Ninas 334. Coliseo, calle and portal 24.8. Colleges (colegios) 224. Colonia de Guerrero 360. Colonia de los Arquitec- tos 357. Colonia de Santa Maria 357. Columbus, monument 351 Concepcion, la 372. Conservatorio de Musica 251. Corpus Christi 346. Cortes, souvenirs 293, 309 4l6 MEXICO (City): MEXICO (City): Cuauhtemoc, monuments, 193, 351- Cuna, foundling asylum 316. Depots 204- Central R. R. 204, 358- HidalgoR.R. 205,365. Interoceauic R. R. 205, 312. Mexican R. R. 206, 358- National R. R. 205, 352- Valley R. R. 206. Desague, Bombas del 151, 312. Division of the city 193. Doctors, American etc, 213, 214. Don Juan Manuel, Ca. 329. Dos de Abril, market, 360. Drug-stores, American 213. Electric plant 390. Escuelas (schools) de Agricultura 225, 381. Bellas Artes, 226, 294, 300, 301. Ciegos 369. Comercio 225, 339. Correccion 368. Industrial 372. Industrial de Huerfa- nos 364. Ingenieros 225, 228, 338. Jurisprudencia 225, 369- Medicina 225, 370. Normal 226, 369. Preparatoria 224, 369. Tiro 313. Ex-Aduana 370. Ex-Arzobispado 257. Exposition Hall from New Orleans 343. Express 207. Flores, Portal de las 250. Flower Festival 318. Garita (custom house) de Corona 365. Iglesias 319. Ocarapo 324. Porfirio Diaz 347. Romero 312. Zaragoza 3 1 9. Government of city 192. Government, offices and officers, 222. Grant, Ulysses, residence 339. Guerrero, monument and square 358, 359. Highway (calzada) of Guadalupe 366. Ixtapalapa 250, 319. Tacuba 340, 356. Texcoco 312. 417 MEXICO (City): MEXICO (City): Tlalpam 320. Historical Sketch, 194.. Hospicio de Pobres 346. Hospitals 213. American 213. Concepcion Beistegui 324. Espanol 348. Jesus 329. Juarez 317. Maternidad 346. IMilitar 322. Morelos 343. Mugeres dementes 372 San Andres 339. San Hipolito 345. Hotels 210. Jardin 337. Iturbide 334. Houses 182. Humboldt, Alex v. 149, 327. Inhabitants 1 89. Indio Triste, calle 272. Institucion Valdivelso 339 Jamaica puente de 319. Jardin, plazuela del 373. Jesus Maria 310. Jesus Nazareno 327. Juarez, monument 257, 359. Legations and Consu- lates 224. Libraries, Public 229. Livery stables 210 Loreto, church and mar- ket 367. Main square 233. Map, official 222. Manufactory of arms 349. Manzanares, chapel 315 Market halls 220. Maximilian souvenirs 290, 292, 293. Mercaderes, Portal de 248. Mercado de flores 247. Merced, la, market 315. Military School 217. 356. Military Prison 363. Mineria 338. Mint (Casa de Moneda) 231, 366. Moctezuma, treasures 353 tree of 355. Monte de Piedad (pawn shop) 248. Montserrate, church 323. Monumento Hipsografico 246. Morelos, monument 343. Mortality 191. Museums (museos) 227. Corona 229, 319. National 260. National Palace 252. Newpapers 222. Nomenclature of streets 193. Northeast Tour 362. Northwest Tour 358 4i8 MEXICO (City): MEXICO (City): Nuestra Seiiora de los Angeles 361. Observatories 2.3o. Palacio de Justicia 368. Palacio Municipal 248. Palma, Santo Tomas de la 316. Parks and Promenades 218. Paseo de la Reforma 850. Pawn shop (Monte de Piedad) 281. Peralvillo, suburb 365- Plateros, Ca. 248, 33o, 33 1. Plaza Bucareli 848, Co- lon 350. Plaza de la Constitucion 233. Portacoeli 33o. Portales (arcades), de, 221 Castelazo 36 1. Flores, las, 250. Mercaderes 248. Santo Domingo 370. Tecpam de San Juan 323. Porters (cargadores) 210, Post offices 232, 259. Prisons (prisiones) 282. Profesa, la 332. Puente de Alvarado 358. Race course 218, 378. Railroads 204. Rastro, slaughter house 322. Refugio, calle and por- tal 248, 314. Regina coeli 324. Restaurants 21 1. Revillagigedo, la 346. Rooms, furnisqed 212. Sagrado Corazon de Je- sus 294. Sagrario Metropolitan 245- Salto del Agua, church and fountain 323, 348. San Antonio Abad 321. San Bernardo 330. San Cosme, church and market 357. San Diego 344. San Felipe de Jesus 336. San Fernando, church and cemetery 359. San Francisco, Ca. 330, 33+. San Francisco , church 335- San Geronimo 322. San Geronimo Atlixco 312. San Hipolito, 344, 360. San Jose 348. San Jose de Gracia 316. San Juan de Dios 343. San Lorenzo 372. 419 MEXICO (City): San Juan de la Peniten- cia 348. San Juan, market and square 348. San Lazaro, suction works 151, church 312. San Lucas, church, mar- ket and square 321, 322. San Miguel 322, San Pablo, square and church 317. San Sebastian 367. Santa Ana, church and market, 365. Santa Brigida 340. Santa Catarina, church and market 366. Santa Catarina de Sena 369- Santa Clara 333. Santa Cruz Acatlan 320. Santa Maria la Redonda 361. Santa Teresa la Antigua 358— La Nueva 368. Santa Veracruz 343. Santiago Tlaltelolco, square and church 362, 365. Santisima, La 311. Santisima Trinidad 335. Santo Domingo, portal and square, 370. Church 371- MEXICO (City): Schools, see colegios and escuelas. Seminario Conciliar 247, 317- Shopping 220. Sightseeing 188. Situation 189. Societies, scientific 230. Soledad, la, de Santa Cruz 314. Sontag, Henriette, resi- dence 332. Southeast Tour 233, Southwest Tour 339. Squares l8l. Stage to Cuernavaca 206. Statistic Items 191. Steamer Agencies 207. Street cars 207. Streets and street scenes 181, 186. Tecpan de San Juan, plazuela 323. Telegraph offices 232. Telephone offices 232. Tepito, chapel and squa- re 366. Theatres (Teatros) 217, Arbeu 824. Hidalgo 824. Nacional 333. Principal 334. Tivolis 218. Tlapaleros, calle and portal 248. 420 MEXICO (City). Tlascuac, chapel 821. Useful Adrdesses 204. Vecindades 3 1 3. Veronica Calzada, de la 356. Viga, Canal de la 3l5,3l8 Paseo de la 3 1 8. Volador, el 251. Wharf of Chalco Stea- mers 206. Zoological Garden 230, 355. Mexico (Feedral Dis- trict): Area 59. Division 59, 161. Inhabitants l6l. Production 1 6 1. Real Estate 161. Mexico (Republic); Agriculture 71. Animal Life 39. Archaeology 95, 124, 262 Area 6. Army 65. Art (history) 295. Art Galleries 67. Aztecs 198, ^264. Banks 71 Budget 70. Cities, most populated 61. Climate 14. Mexico (Republic): Coal of Arms 57. Colonisation 71. Commerce 81. Constitution 57. Culture 52. Export 82. Flag 57. Government ( Federal ) 62. Government of States 64. Industry 76. Inhabitants 49. Journalism 67. Lakes, largest 1 3. Languages 50. Limits 5. Manufacture 79. Mail Service 89. Mecas 167. Mineral baths 14. Mineral products 17. Mints 77. Mountain peaks 10. Museums 67. National Economy 67. National Wealth 71. Navigation 88, 106. Navy 65. Observatories 67. Occupations 55. Otomites 167. Political Division 57. Public Debt 70. Public Instruction 66. 421 Mexico (Republic): Public Libraries 67. Railroads 87, 106. Religions 53. Rivers," largest 1 3. Ruins ancient 95. Scientific Societies 67. Situation 5. Society 52. Superficie 7. Taxes 71. Telegraphs 8g. Telephones 89. Toltecs 168. Traffic 87. Valley, highest, II. Vegetable Products 20. Water system ll. Mexico (State); Area 60. Districts in the Valley 162. Inhabitants 60, 162. Mexico (Valley): Archaeology, 122; 164, 194. Area 128. Boundaries 127. Climate 152. Diseases 158. Earthquakes 153. Elevations 127, 129 Eruptions i32. Mexico (Valley): Excursions through the Valley 874. Geological Formation 123 History 164. Hydraulic Works 143. Inhabitants 160. Inundations 153. Lakes 129, 140. Mineral Waters 142. Natural Products 159. Panorama 117. Pohtical Division 160. Situation 1 27. Time to visit 118. >. Milpa Alta 162. Mixcoac 388, Mixquic 1 62. Molino del Rey 389. Monte Alto, sierra 128. Monte Bajo, sierra 128. j^ extlalpan 1 63. ^eXevada, Siei 129. Nochistongo, Tajo 153, 143, 402. Nopaltepec 163, ^metusco 410. ^jstotepec 162. Otumba, plain 128. Ozumba 409. Ozumbilla i63. jT^achuca, city 404, "K sierra 127. Pachuquilla 404. 127, de 423 Padierna 393. Papalotla 1 63. Papelote river 140. Patlachique, sierra 1 38. Paula, hill 1 38. Pedregal, lava bed 1 40. Peiion de los Baiios 124, 137, 142, 195, 291, 399. Penon viejo, hill 1 37- Piedad, la 388. Pino, el, hill i36. Pitos, sierra de los 1 38. Pci^ocatepetl 129, 409. Popotla 382. Puebla 407. ^eal del Monte 406. ^emedios, los 383. Reyes, los 406. Rio Hondo 419. ^acromonte 409. Salinas,- hiU 1 38. Salto, el 146, 402. San Angel 892. San Bartolo Naucalpan 383. San Borja 388. San Crist6bal (lake) 141. San Cristobal Ecatepec 403. San Francisquito 410, San Javier, plain 128. San Juan Teotihuacan 409. San Miguel, hill i38. San Nicolas, hill i36. Santa Anita 898. Santa Catarina i36, 394. Santa Fe-Cuajimalpa 162 San Telmo, mountain 135- Sincoque, cerro de 127. rx^acuba 382. "U:^acubaya 389. Teacalco 1 63. Tecajete mountain i38. Tecamac 1 63. Tecpayuca, hill 139. Telapon, mountain, 185. Temamatla l63. Temascalapa i63. Tenango, cerro 1 27. Tenochtitlan 197, 247, 249, 250, 257, 26i, 266, 279, 280, 281, 293, 36o, 3 1 3, 3 1 9, 321, 327, 329, 344, 348, 356, 357, 36o, 36i, 365, 366, 367. Teoloyucan 402. Teotihuacan i28, 267, 269, 278, 279, 283, 284, 285, 409. Tepayac, cerro 135. Tepetlaxtoc i63. Tepetlkpa 1 63. Tepeyac(ac), hill 139. Tepexpan 409. Tepotzotlan, i28, 1 63. Tequixquiac 1 24, 1 25, 143, 291. Texcoco l28, 14I, 26l, 266, 293, 406. Mexican Central I^ailway. (^;x^^xv_.^i.N .>^ THE ONLY ALL RAIL ROUTE TO Mexico traversing the richest mineral and AGRICULTURAL DISTRICTS IN THE REPUBLIC. The most 8eautifui scenery On the American Continent. The trains of the Mexican Central Railway make close connection at El Paso, the Gate City of Mexico wilk trains from and to St. Francisco, Kansas City, St. Luis, Chicago, New Orleans, Cincinnati, New York and all other important points in the United Staates, And are e{iiiipped with every modern appliance for the SAPETY and COMPORT of passengers. For further informations apply to G. \V. Keeler, General Eastern Agent, 261 Broadway, New York. M, H. King, General Western Agent, 236 So. Clark St., Chicago, 111. C. E. Miner, General Traveling Agent, Laclede Hotel St. Louis Mo. \V. P. Foster, Traveling Passenger Agent, 105 N. Broadway, St. Louis, Mo. R. \V. Gillespie, Traveling Passenger Agent, 34 St., Charles St. New Orleans, La. EUROPE:— Bi-own, Jenkinson & Co., 147 & 14S Leaden- hall «t., London, Eug. E. W. Jackson, A. C. Michaelis, 2nd VicePres & Gen'l Manager. Gen'l Frt. & Pass. Agt. MEXICO. Feijoii TJiernia! Sprinys Baths At short distance from City of Mexico. This establishment has been completely rebuilt at great expenses and fitted up with all the conveniencesj luxuriancy and elegance which the culture of this Me- tropolis demands and might be required to place it in the first rank. These thermal waters, as sliu'wn by the analj-ses made by the world renowned cbe- raists Kio de la Lr>za of Jlexico, and Dr. Leon Simon of Pa- ris, as well as by the Board of Health of this City, compete advantageously with the medicinal waters of Karlsbad, Kis- singen, Wiesbaden and Ems in Gerojany; of Vichy, Neris and Mont Dove in France, and Saratoga in the Unitod fStates of America. The public will find in this luxuriously fitted up bith establishment attentive service, cleanliness and MODERATE TRICES. There are albO Bowling and Shooting Alleys, Billiard- and Bar-rooms, Swings etc., a good Restaurant in charge of a first class caterer, a Rotunda for Carriages, and a Commodious Hotel, with well ventilated and ele- gantly furnished roonis and appartments for single persons and families. The Bath Rooms are divided into separate departments for Gentlemen, Ladies and Families. Provision has also been made for persons of limited means to partake of the benefits of these essentially salutary waters. Tramway cars run every 80 minutes from 6 a. ra. until 5 p. m.; last cars from Feiion at 6 p. m. The main building is situated near Lake Texcoco, where boat races of the * Lakeside Club> periodically take place. 4^4 Texcotzinco 138, 407 Texololl, hLll5 136. Tezontepec 163. Tezontlalpam, sierra 127. Tezoyuca 163. Teutli, ceno, 140. Tizapan 393. Tizayuca 128, 163. Tlahuac-Tlaltenco 141, 162. Tlaloc, mountain 135. Tialmanalco, city and R. R. 275, 403. Tlalnepantla 128, 387. Tlaltelolco 196,202, 282, 286, 289. Tlaraacas, mountain 135. Tlajomulco, hill 139. Tlalpain 396. Tlapacoya, hill, 136,142. Tlaxcala 274, 284, 286, 287. Tlaxomulco (San Miguefi 163. Tolcayuca 163. Toluca 411. Travel in Mexico: Age of travel I. Arrival in a city lio. Baths public 114. Bill of fare 112. Bullfights 100. Carriages, public 109. City life 61, 95. Cockfights 100. Travel in Mexico: Diligences 106. Don'ts, some for travel- lers 114. Expenses, loi. Express, 91, 109. Festivals, peculiar go. Hotels no. Indian Life 96. Landscapes 9 1. Litters 107. Measures 104. Money 103. Porters 109. Preparations 102. Restaurants III. Ruins, ancient 95. Saddle horses 107. Street cars 1 08. Theatres 1 00. Time for visiting loi. Wa^h-list III. Water dosets 114. \yeights 104. Tula 261, 267, 268, 269, 402. Tullitlan, 128, 163, Tultepec 163. Tulyehualco 162. fiaducto del Laurel 410. ■^aitepetl, cerro 136. "^altocan, lake 141. Xico, hill and farm i' Xico, hill and farm 136, 142. Xihningo, sierra 127. (^aragoza 163. Xilcalhuacan, hill 138. e^^empoala 163. Xochimilco 141, 400. Zinguilucan, cerro, 127. Xoloc, cerro, 138. Zumpango 128, I40, 151, Xuchitepec 163. 403. ^ehualixca, hill 136. c^^a> ■Most important Errata. p. IV, 1. 8, read: Pina, not tPina>. p. 3, 1. 15, read: MoCTE/XMA, not €Moctezorr!a>. p. 36, 1. 6, read: coNTAiX, not c.countain>. p. 40, 1. 17, read: BADGER, not c badge >, p. 55, 1. 27, read: eighty eight, not ceighty*. p. 62, I. 5, read: 23,520, not < 23,250. p. 71, 1. 27, read: 3, not
  • . p. 104, 1. 27, read; 42,525 hectares or . » > 1. 29, read: goddess, not . p. 138, 1. 27, read: 13,057, not . p. 142, 1. 23, read: 77", not cCg^i. p. 144, 1. 28, read: at the, not . p. 151, 1. 14, read: minute, not c second >. 426 p. 170, 1. 29, read: of, not «only>. > > I. 31, read: 3,04, not <2,04». p. 173, 1. 16, read; 1867, not ci897>. p. 177, 1. 14, read: Portal be Mercaderes, not cP. de las Flores>. p. 1 78, 1. 20, read: ^VHICH Cortes conquered in 1521, not twhere C. was received eto. p. 178, 1. 26, read: NOW, not . p. iSi, 1. 3, read: arched, not . p. 189, 1. 27, read: 9,700, rot <6,Ocoj. p. 197, 1. 3 & 4, read: eefore the temple of Toci (near the Garita Zaragoza). p. 197, 1. 9, read: here, not « where >. p. 198, 1. 7, read: OF TEN, not c often >. p. 203, 1. 17, read: LAS atarazanas, not catara- zanai. p. 245, 1. 9, read: red amygdaloid and, etc. p. 246, 1. 3, read: copied FROM F. Zurbaran, not . p. 247, !. 31, read: Count, not cConde*. p. 254, 1. I, read: PuERTA, not >Patio>. P« 257, 1. 7, read: ONE, not cand>. p. 260, 1. 26, read: TO overcome great difficul- ties IN order to offer, etc. p. 264, 1. 13, read: Tlalpilli, not «Tla]pillii>. p. 274, 1. 30, read: MiCTLANClHUATL, not cMitlan- cihuatb. p. 275, 1. 19, read: MiCTLANTECUTLl, not cMectlan- tecutli>. p. 297, 1. 31, read: REPRODUCTION, not trepresen- tation*. 42 7 p. 302, 1. 22, read: Hid alga, not ^ Hidalgo,, p. 309, 1. 20&21, read: G. Guerra, not . "^*^ 1- 7, re^l: MixcoAC, not . 3 1158 01203 4038 "Fl diaihiantF" ^ RICARDO K 6 2d. Plateros Street 2. — Mexico ^ L E I N . CO u ^ Irijportef and dralrr in M J l>IA]IIOx\DS '^' WAT€HES P AND JEWEKLY. |j si IP ,1 1* iMS^ 1^ J ALBEETO AEELLANO Y MILAN. e rj c«r2 j^LaW YER ^^ cr/J rj « — Donceles Street, 29. — « V(or Avenida Oriente, No. 367.) ^