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 HOW THANKFUL SHOULD WE BE. 
 
 COMMENTS ON NATAL. 
 
 ^. 3^ E TJ m: ^ isT isr T h: o :m: -A. s 
 
 CAPE TOWN: 
 
 PRINTED AT THE '" CAPE TIMES" PRINTING WORKS, ST. GEORGE'S STREET, 
 
 1894.
 
 stack 
 Annex 
 
 V^3 
 
 TO MY DEAK MOTHER, 
 
 MY GRANDFATHER, THE REV. ROBERT DAVIES THOMAS, 
 
 CHRISTCHURCH, CHESTER. 
 
 M^ITH MY LOVE. 
 
 1227082
 
 IP jR H i _b ' -jf^ QD Pi. 
 
 fHE following papers were not intended originally to appear as they iibw do in connected 
 form, but E. and 'F., Daughter and Father, I desire to explain for the satisfaction of 
 those who have puzzled themselves unnecessarily about the initials adopted, suddenly took it 
 into their heads that as both required change and rest from their labours and Natal was a 
 terra incognita to both, they would visit it together. Their thoughts, impressions, and 
 experiences they venture to think may intercstj and be of service to, some few whose steps 
 may trend Natalwards. 
 
 I humbly apologize to our Readers for F^'s interpolations, which a candid and 
 competent critic characterized as somewhat de trap (he was a ladies' man though) but throw 
 the blame on E., just as Adam of old did. She beguiled nie and I did write. 
 
 F
 
 1.— DURBAN AND THE BBREA. 
 2.— MATIITZBURG. 
 
 3.— ROUND ABOUT MARITZBURG— IN THE PARK— THE UMrJENI FALLS— 
 THE ASYLUM. 
 
 4.— THE TRAPFIST MONASTERY AT MARIANNHILL. 
 
 •o.-^ROUND ABOUT DURBAN— MOUNT EDOBCUMBR AND BELLAFR.
 
 l.-DURBAN AND THE BEREA. 
 
 lu tlie afternoon we came unto a land 
 
 In which it seemed always afternoon. 
 
 All round the coast the languid air did swoon, 
 
 Breathing like one that hath a weary dream. 
 
 — The Lotos-Eaterg. 
 
 This is not an advertisement for Seigel's 
 syrup, so, reader, peruse with comfort. " How 
 thankful should we be," was a little sister's 
 favourite saying, and she often used it with a 
 quaint mixture of fun and gravity to rebuke 
 grumblers. We quoted the virtuous remark so 
 often during our brief visit to Natal that it 
 seemed the most appropriate title to adopt for 
 a description of our experiences. " How 
 thankful should we be ! " we earnestly ex- 
 claimed when, after broiling on the deck of the 
 Trojan, being hoisted in a basket, and tossing 
 on the bar, we landed on the Durban wharf. 
 (F. asks to be allo"n'ed to put in a word for the 
 Trojan. " A charming, comfortable, substan- 
 tial old ship she is, with her spacious calkins 
 aud deck-room. For making a voyage for 
 health's sake, give me one of her type to do it 
 in. Luxury enough for any but Lord Ran- 
 dolphs, no taxing of the brain in thinking about 
 where your cabin is, and which is the shortest 
 way to it among the maze of routes aboard our 
 Scots and Dunottars, even after yoti have been 
 at sea for a week or more and may be supposed 
 to have mastered the geographical details of the 
 complicated machines we travel in. No difficulty 
 in finding a corner for your chair, and your 
 chums, where you can lounge in peace, and 
 snooze, if so inclined, without waking up to the 
 fact that your cap is gone, you have got 
 neuralgia in the face, or are chilled to the bone 
 bv sitting in an artificial gale of wind created 
 by the driving of the ship through the water at 
 eighteen or twenty miles an hour.") 
 
 We should add, however, that extensive 
 harbour works are in course of construction, 
 and even the present wharf and tugs are 
 infinitely superior to the " temporary "' landing 
 arrangements at the metropolis of the East, 
 arrangements which have been temporary ever 
 since Port Elizabeth " was," and seem likely to 
 continue so. The shimmering heat at the 
 Point was intense, and we were glad to take 
 refuge in the cool airy hall at the Alexandra 
 Hotel. The palms and Hindoo servants clad in 
 snowy tunics and turbans, looked delightfully 
 tropical. Indians are iiniver sally employed in 
 the Durban hotels and in many private houses. 
 As a rule they make excellent servants, though 
 
 they are rather tiresomely attentive, and their 
 curiosity is insatiable. (F. reminds me of 
 " another good trait they have, and that is, they 
 are satisfied with moderate tips and they do 
 not in their waiting on you make you feel that 
 they are gauging your liberality and appor- 
 tioning the amount of attention they will 
 bestow on you/') Ti, the Indian maid, was quite 
 a " character." She took a keen interest in the 
 fashions, and rather an unwelcome interest in 
 " leetle Missy's " belongings. The Indian 
 coolie girls wear short skirts and loose jackets, 
 a long scarf of %^'hite muslm or bright coloured 
 silk is draped across the shoulders and over the 
 skirt, falling in graceful folds. They are 
 plentifully bedecked with jewellery, " rings on 
 their fingers and bells on their toes," massive 
 earrings, noserings, &c. Indeed, an Indian girl 
 carries aU her fortune on her person, the 
 features being often quite distorted with the 
 weight of ornaments. I was quite fascinated 
 with a coolie girl decked ^\^th magnificent 
 silver jewellery ; woven frostwork gleamed in 
 her dark hair, massive chains w^ere wound 
 about her neck and arms, her ankles were so 
 laden with silver that she walked with diffi- 
 culty, and of course the earrings and noserings 
 were hideous. Ti, however, contemptuously 
 remarked that the silvery damsel didn't amount 
 to much, as Indian women of any consequence 
 always wore gold. 
 
 Next morning we began to explore Durban. 
 There was very little difficulty in getting about, 
 open trams leaving the Point for the Town- 
 hall every quarter of an hour, and going from 
 there to aU parts of the Berea. AVest-street is 
 the principal thoroughfare of Durban, and in 
 many respects it is superior to Adderley-street, 
 being much wider and better paved. There are 
 several fine buildings, including a large Town- 
 hall, containing post and telegraph offices, &c. 
 Ihat we hope soon to rival in Cape Town ; but, 
 oh ! we sighed with envy when we visited the 
 magnificent public baths. Entering the pretty 
 porch, an attendant met us, and showed us the 
 beautiful large swimming-bath, built in a lofty 
 hall. It is of varying depth, and is filled with 
 salt water. There is, however, a fair-sized 
 fresh water plunge-bath adjoining, and 
 numerous dressing-rooms open on to the hall. 
 The baths are available daily from six a.m., 
 the hours being conveniently arranged for 
 Sundays. Thursday is the ladies' day, when as 
 many as 500 ladies often visit the swimming- 
 bath. Passing along a tiled stoep, looking on 
 to a gay flower garden, we entered another part
 
 of the buildinp. ami were i*hown the elaljorate 
 system of Turkish baths. At the other end of 
 the stoep was a French hairdresser's shop. 
 
 Opposite tlie Town-hall are the public gar- 
 dens, which are kept in splendid ' order. 
 Crossing the gardens, we found the Royal 
 Hotel: a considerable portion is being re- 
 built and a new wing being added, but when 
 we visited Durban it was somewhat of a laby- 
 rinth, and the rooms were very small and hot. 
 In the centre of the hotel buildings was an 
 open courtyard, shaded !)y an awning. It was 
 called Ulundi-sqiiare. and visitors would gather 
 round the fountain among the palms, trying 
 in vain to get a breath of cool air. and listening 
 to the nightly serenade of the mosquitos. The 
 proprietor of the Royal also owns the Alexandra 
 Hotel, so that visitors can arrange to have 
 their meals at the Royal Hotel, which is in a 
 central pai't of Durban, and have rooms at the 
 Alexandra Hotel. The latter is built at the 
 Point, near the Umbilo lagoon. The rooms are 
 large, there is a long balcony from '\\-hioh one 
 can enjoy a refreshing sea-breeze at night, ami 
 best of all there is a (comparative) immunity 
 from the sweet music of mosquitos ! (For 
 ladies and families, F. decidedly recommends 
 the Alexandi-a. " Bachelors and gentlemen 
 travelling alone may possibly more appreciate 
 the — Iirc/i>ui<s — we will call it, of the Royal.'") 
 Next to the Royal Hotel is the Diirbau Club, 
 which is not much frequented, business men 
 preferring to return to their cool resi- 
 dences on the Berea aft«r office hours. (F., 
 who was courteously made an honorary mem- 
 ber during our stay, describes the club as 
 " decidedly superior in accommodation and 
 comfort to most others he has visited in the 
 Colony, but yet like them it is more a place of 
 meeting for lunch or a game of billiards or 
 pyramids, the fashionable game there, in the 
 middle of th« day than a resort in the even- 
 ings."') 
 
 Close at hand we found one of the numerous 
 ricksha stands. Jinrickshas were recently 
 introduced into Natal from Japan, and soon 
 became popular, being universally used in 
 Durban, in fact no hansom cabs are to be seen 
 anywhere. Rickshas resemble small - sized 
 bnggys or enlarged perambtilators, they are 
 very light with two large wheels similar to 
 those of bicycles, and are drawn by Kafir 
 runners, who are called " boys," in distinction 
 to the Indians who are always called " coolies." 
 Rickshas vary in size, but generally hold two 
 people comfortably. Kafirs hire them for five 
 shillings per day and make their own profits, 
 there is a fixed tariff, the fares being about the 
 same as cab hire in Cape Town. Many resi- 
 dents impoit their own rickshas from Hong 
 Kong, these are generally superior to the hired 
 vehicles, and are often artistically ornamented 
 in black and gold. Kafir boys are untiring 
 runners, but are stupid about directions, and 
 certainly lack the bump of locality, as we 
 fouud to our cost. We had promised 
 
 Dr. Gill to visit the Natal Observatory and see 
 the astronomer. We waited in vain for a cool 
 day, and one hot afternoon went to look for a 
 ricksha iiear the public gardens. We were 
 instantly surrounded by Kafir runners, all 
 eagerly descanting on the merits of their 
 vehicles and themselves. I selected the runner 
 with the most elaljorate headdress, strings of 
 beads were twisted aboiit his head, ornaments 
 like Christmas-tree caudles stuck out in all 
 directions, and over Ms forehead projected an 
 ornament like the horn of a unicorn; indeed, 
 he was gorgeous to Ijehold ! " To the 
 Observatory."" said F. brieflj-, but his direction 
 was met first by a look of l>lank amazement, 
 and then by an outpoixiing of musical Zulu 
 clicks, accompanied l)y expressive gestures. 
 "To Mr. Neville's, to see the stars."" explained 
 F., but the runner was no wiser than before, 
 and the other Kafir boys gathered round, 
 eagerly chattering and explaining their views 
 on the subject, their former interest in our 
 choice of a ricksha being (juite forgotten in their 
 childish eagerness and ciiriosity to know where 
 we wanted to go. F. got impatient, and i)oiired 
 out a fiood of eloquent Cape Dutch, which did 
 not help matters much. Finally, in despair, he 
 seized his walking-stick, and using it as a 
 telescope, pointed heavenwards, and pretended 
 to be star-gazing. Instantly all the eager faces 
 followed the telescopic directions, and stared 
 upwards with breathless interest, but soon 
 retiirning earthwards, the runners shook their 
 woolly heads \\ith a moivrnful expression, 
 which called to mind a well-kno'\N'n local 
 amateur's favourite ejaculation, "You can't do 
 it 1 ' " Well, drive to the Botanic Gardens, 
 then," and at last getting an intelligible direc- 
 tion, our driver beamed with delight and 
 trotted gaily off. avoiding all jolting with the 
 skill of a iiractised jinricksha runner. AVe 
 drove down West-street, and watched with 
 interest the novel shops and vehicles 
 and miscellaneoiis crowd of passers-by, 
 of which more anon. There are several 
 handsome buildings and shops in the principa 
 Durban thoroughfare, and it seems a pity that 
 the authorities should allow the lower end of 
 this fine street to be monopolised l)y Indian 
 traders, who have erected their miserable little 
 shops and shanties next to the fine stores and 
 offices occupied by European business men. In 
 many respects though the Durbanites are 
 ahead of us, ami the Cajx- Town Council might 
 take a few bints from them. We have nothing 
 to equal the well-kept public gardens and ex- 
 tensive parks of both Durban and IVIaritzburg. 
 The Durban roads arc wider an d better kept than 
 ours, all refuse being promptly removed, iiof swept 
 into heaps to await the tardy movements of con- 
 tractors" carts ; the pavements are more even 
 and regular: the tramways siiperior; and 
 everything looks cleaner and more orderly. 
 Pajiers and stones do not fly about at every 
 gust of wind, and a crowd of shouting boys 
 round the post-office would soon be dispersed
 
 by the native police force. Furious driving-, 
 except on the jjart of the doctors, 
 appears to be unknown, and it is not necessary 
 to step off the pavement half-a-dozen times to 
 make way for Malay wonieji, who, with wide- 
 ei)re vdiug-, crackling- skirts, arc out for an 
 afternoon's i^romenade and shop-gazing. Those 
 who are wont to hnrry do^\^l Adderley-street to 
 catch the five p.m. train in the face of snch 
 dirticiilties and obstrnctions, will readily grasj) 
 the advantage, liy the shoi'es of the Umbilo 
 the fishhorn tooteth not, and impromptu concer- 
 Mna and tomtom serenades are not wafted 
 abroad upon the (balmy ]) breath of the summer 
 air, tlioug'h the efforts of trained musicians are 
 appreciated by visitors strolling through the 
 parks on warm summer evenings. Best of all, 
 snoek-like scents do not pervade the streets, 
 and on the subject of sanitation ^'e might say 
 much, but think it wiser to refrain, knowing 
 that the ears of many readers are afflicted with 
 a delicacy which, alas I rarely extends to their 
 noses. 
 
 Meanwhile we have left "\^'est- street, and are 
 out on the broad Berea road, our driver 
 %vhistling gaily all the way, and exchanging 
 cheerj' remarks with jjassing runners. Dis- 
 missing the ricksha near the Botanic Gardens, 
 we wandered about the shady lanes at the lower 
 end of the Berea trying in vain to find the 
 Observatory, as most of the passers-by seemed 
 to be in compiete darkness as to its where- 
 abouts. At last we found the pretty woodeii 
 building in a terraced garden, but being Satur- 
 day afternoon, everyone was away, and all the 
 doors locked. " How thankful should we lie 
 to get even a chance of resting," I murmured, 
 as we waited under the liroad verandah, ad- 
 miring the lovely view, and sighing in \'ain foi- 
 tea. Natal is ahead of us in another respect, 
 for lady computers are employed at the Obser- 
 vatory, generally winding up their daily laltours 
 with tea and tennis. We might commend 
 thf3 innovation to our Astronomer-Royal, 
 for ladies being gifted with otiservaut 
 pov ers, might be employed in other Itranches 
 of the work, astronomy yielding a wide field 
 for observation. (The other one : " For the 
 moment we cease to be we, and were it not 
 that this paper has already exceeded i)rescribed 
 limits, I should crave for a vohime to myself to 
 protest. Natal is ahead of xis truly in this 
 respect, and long, as far as Cape Town is con- 
 cerned, may it remain so. Yet another invasion 
 in South Africa of men's domain ! How far 
 distant is tfie time Avhen the sterner sex will 
 have volctiK volenti to relinciuish to the dc- 
 I)endent sex their gradually vanishing means ol' 
 emi)loyment in, at any rate, sedentary occupa- 
 tions, and be forced to don the garb of woman, 
 to Ijoss the kitchen and jiantry, work the 
 sewing machines, and order their own meals ,' ") 
 
 Another day we explored the lovely end of 
 Durban known as the Berea, where most of th(^ 
 well-to-do townspeople live. Durban is built 
 on the shores of a broad, shallow lagoon at the 
 
 mouth of the Umbilo. The shore opjiosite the 
 town consists of lou' green hills, terminating in 
 a promontory called the Bhiff, which stretches 
 out into the Indian Ocean, and is crowned by a 
 lighthouse. The Berea ans\\ers to the Gardens 
 of Cape Town; it is the hilly inland country 
 extending along tliC Umbilo, and is crowded 
 with lovely houses and gardens. 
 
 While waiting at the Town-hall for the 
 Florida-road tram, \\e amuse ourselves by 
 watching the ordinary street life of Durban. 
 We miss the hurry anil bustle of Adderley- 
 street: Durbanites takes things "sootjes.' On 
 the pavement below, groups of business men 
 clad in flannels, and trying to get some shade 
 
 under huge white umbrellas, are discussing 
 
 shares, the price of sugar, or maybe Mr. 
 
 Rhodes's doings, the 
 topic of interest in 
 flowing- robes stalk 
 
 latter a never-failing 
 Natal. Hindoos in 
 solemnly' by, their 
 
 grave, composed faces contrasting with 
 the beaming countenances of the grinning, 
 chattering natives, clad in the scantiest attire. 
 The native policemen wcnx the ordinary police 
 uniform, only they are barefooted, and carry 
 knobkerries. They keep excellent order, 
 and show Avonderful readiness and keen 
 delight in running in their dusky lirethren. 
 Now sonie groups of blanketed Kafirs pass, the 
 women's headdresses are wonderful to l)ehold 
 and their erect, supjile figures and free, grace- 
 ful walk are remarkal)le when one considers 
 the heavy weights they carry on their heads, 
 and the i'at babies slung on their backs. Some 
 Indian cooUe g-irls follow; bright silken scarves 
 are wound gracefully about them, and their 
 wealth of jewellery flashes in the bright sun- 
 light. Now a heavy wagon comes lumbering 
 )iy: it evidently "belongs to the Trappist 
 Monastery, for it is driven by a brown-robed 
 monk, and several of the sad-faced, silent 
 brethren are gathered nejii-. Several 
 carriages follow, driven liy Indian coacli- 
 mcn, dressed in spotless white, with 
 coloured turbans. Xumliers of ladies liave 
 come in from liellair and the Berea for a day's 
 shopping, and as Natal girls are not fond of 
 walking, jinrickshas are in great recpiest, and 
 ar(j constantly passing, their runners keeping 
 up a succession of gay remarks w ith their 
 7iumerous acciuaiutances. Here comes a 
 ricksha containing a latly in gay attire, a bright 
 yellow gown witli a \fY(n:n sash, and a large, 
 shady hat covered with flowers: indeed, it is no 
 linusual sight to st^e girls out shopping dressect 
 as if for a garden i),irty. l\ was much struck 
 with the itrev.-dence of red hair amongst the 
 girls and children: the former do not look as 
 bright and animated as Cape girls, but the 
 relaxing climate would sf)on make the most 
 energetic woman languid and inditt'erent. 
 Beneath the shade of the palm trees in the 
 gardens, opposite the Town-hall, children are 
 playing under the care of Kafir boy nurses, 
 who seem devoted to their little charges, 
 watching them with tender care, and
 
 trying to keep the most fretful babies 
 amused and happy. Would that the nurses in 
 the Government Avenue could take a lesson. 
 The pale, f rag-ile appearance of the wee folks 
 contrasts pathetically with the rosy looks and 
 cheerful energy of the little people we have 
 recently seen at the Port Elizabeth Collegiate 
 School. Suddenly above the numerous street- 
 cries rises the shrill wail of an Indian woman's 
 voice. She is crouched on the steps near the 
 garden-gate, and is moaning and wailing over 
 the dead body of her little one gathered in her 
 arms, a woman friend joins her, and their 
 piercing cries drown the other children's happy 
 voices. It is a painful contrast to the bright, 
 animated scene, and the great reality is borne 
 in upon us — in the midst of life — but our 
 tram is waiting near the foimtain, and soon 
 the street noises are left behind, and we are 
 driving along the green shady avenues leading 
 to the Berea. 
 
 The Diirban trams are very light and clean, 
 the wooden seats are reversible, and the cars 
 are open on all sides, so that there is a constant 
 current of air on the hottest days, Init awnings 
 are piit up on one side during rainy weather. 
 At the various stopping-places there are pretty 
 wooden verandahs, kept scrupulously clean, and 
 provided with seats for passengers, who can thus 
 wait comfortably in the shade. After leaving 
 the Botanic Gardens we plunge deeper into 
 shadowy avenues, and soon the full beauties of 
 the Berea are revealed to us. It seems 
 impossible to do full justice to all that summer 
 loveliness when attempting to describe it. As 
 I write in the hot sunlight, the glaring white 
 paper and hard black letters seem totally in- 
 adequate means for describing that leafy 
 greenery. All round me now the land is 
 scorched bare and browTi liy Imrning winds and 
 midsiunmer sunshine, the topmost branches of 
 the tall gumtrees stir gently in the faiut 
 breeze, bird notes sound from the di.st.mt i^ine- 
 woods. Pushing the paper away, I close my 
 eyes and dream myself V)ack into the silent 
 leafy glades, the glowing gardens and smooth, 
 shadowy, green lawns of the Berea. 
 
 The Berea hills are intersected with deep 
 lanes and smooth, well-kept roads, lovely houses 
 and gardens cluster everywhere, not a few 
 scattered estates, but a constant succession of 
 beautiful homes. We were struck by their 
 unique beauty, showing marked individual 
 taste, and in some houses great wealth on the 
 part of their owners; there are no rows of 
 stuccoed villas in wearisome monotony, but 
 hiindreds of beautiful Iiomrs, surrounded with 
 shady orchards, green sloping lawns, and gay 
 flower gardens. The larger houses, like English 
 country seats, are adapted to a tropical country, 
 Some are built of stone, others of red brick, 
 pretty little balconies and gabled windows 
 jutting out to command a wide view of sunlit 
 ea or gli mpse of the distant hills. Here is a 
 quaint wooden liungalow, with deep verandah, 
 overgrown with briar roses ; next comes a 
 
 pretty gabled cottage, with lattice windows 
 opening on to the daisied lawn. Yonder a 
 great red-brick man.sion glows among the trees, 
 the deep Ijalcony commanding extensive views 
 over the town and lagoon. Further on a 
 rambling, weather-stained stone-house with high 
 gabled roof rises on the hill-side, terraced 
 lawTis, shaded by drooping tree ferns, descend- 
 ing to the winding road. 
 
 (F. adds that before leaving the subject of 
 the houses " mention should be made of the 
 excellent and cheap bricks and roofing tiles 
 manufactured both in Diirban and Maritzburg. 
 The bricks struck me as being of better quality 
 and make than any in this colony, 
 and the tiles in every respect the equal 
 of those imported from Belgium or France. 
 I am at a loss to understand why tile roofs 
 with us here are not oftener adopted. Nothing 
 exceeds them for coolness or stabihty, and in 
 appearance they have decidedly an advantage 
 over slates or iron. On the score of economy, 
 too, I should imagine they should find 
 pati'ons.") 
 
 Then the profusion of flowers and ferns and 
 wealth of foUage are a constant source of 
 wondering delight, many of our garden flowers 
 growing qu'te wild. "We will wander along 
 this winding lane and gather a few roadside 
 flowers. One side of the lane is sheltered by a 
 thick jessamine hedge, the white starlike 
 blossoms gleaming among the dark green 
 leaves ; on the other side clusters of pink and 
 crimson roses trail over the garden hedges, 
 scattering their ro.sy petals amongst the 
 flickering shadows on i;he pathway. 
 W^e reach in vain for those sweet white 
 dogi'oses with their pure delicate petals 
 aud hearts of gold, while in gorgeous contrast 
 the rich scarlet petals and long velvety pistils 
 of the hibiscus rosea are glowing in the hot 
 sunshine. The convolvulus creeper wdth its blue 
 trumpet flowers so exquisitely veined twines 
 aboiit the tree ferns and lights up the dark 
 woods. A few waxen orange l)lossoms drop 
 softly on to the emerald-green lawns. When- 
 the fruit is rijie the golden oranges g'leams 
 ing in the shadowy gro\es add to the 
 enchantment of the Berea gardens. The 
 lane winds over a hill and we turn 
 to admire the lovely outlook. Below iis lies 
 the town, with its wdde streets thronged with 
 people, beyond is the broad lagoon dotted with 
 tiny yachts, their white sails oi\tspread to 
 catch the faint breeze, looking like seabirds 
 dipping their -wings in the rippling water. 
 
 (F. adds: "On first|viewing a yacht race from 
 the wharf at Diorban, which took place 
 during a furious south-east gale, I was 
 filled with admiration at what appeared 
 to be the daring though reckless seaman- 
 ship of the crews of the various yachts, 
 resulting, in the course of the afternoon, 
 however, in the capsize of some six or seven of 
 these Uttle craft, and fully expected that the 
 evening paper would contain the names of
 
 many who had f oiind a watery grave owing to 
 their temerity. When informed, however, that 
 in hardly any spot in the lagoon is the water 
 more than four or live feet deep, I began to 
 think that there was not bo much in 
 it, and that yachting without any element 
 of danger in it is robbed at any rate of much 
 of ite charm.") The lagoon is really the 
 estuary of the Umbilo, and we follow the wind- 
 ing of the broad river till it is lost in the heart 
 of the green hills. At the further end of the 
 
 lagoon is a low green island; beyond are 
 wooded hills, terminating in the Bluff, which 
 stretches out into the blue waters of the 
 Indian Ocean. We would gladly have lin- 
 gered in this enchanted ground, and were 
 looking forward to exploring Bellair and the 
 Umbilo end of the Berea, but the increasing 
 heat became well-nigh iinendurable, and we 
 finally decided to take the train for the North, 
 and put off further wanderings round about 
 Durban till we returned from Maritzburg.
 
 'i.-MARITZBURa 
 
 " It was the time when lilies blow." 
 
 After a l'e\\- days of exhausting' Dnrt>au heat, 
 I awoke one morning- with a sigh of relief, for 
 we were going •■ up-coiintry " by the early train, 
 and were looking forward to a more endiiral>le 
 atmosphere on the Jjreezy Maiitzbiirg hills. We 
 found that the express train left at night, so 
 thought it better to travel by the nine a.m. 
 slow train, in order to see something of the 
 country. The Xatal Government railway ser- 
 vice is in many ways inferior to o\us. Dnrlian 
 Station is not an inciting place at which to 
 wait for trains, and we found it impossible to 
 get a time-table, or much reliable information 
 as to the arrival or departure of trains. The 
 fares are rather lower than in the Cape Colony, 
 and return tickets for any considerable 
 distance extend over several months. There 
 was not much choice of carriages, and having 
 selected the least uncomfortable one, we 
 amused ourselves by watching the motley 
 crowd of Indians, Zulus, and Kafirs on the 
 platform. Some of the older Kafir women 
 who have lost the grace of early youth are 
 about as repulsively ugly as it is possible for 
 women to be, for it is the most painful form of 
 iigliness, the human countenance unlit by the 
 human soiil and miud. The crowd of natives 
 would have been an instriictive .sight for some 
 (enthusiastic members of the Aborigines' 
 JProtection Society, jjerhaps even the virtuous 
 :member for Northampton might have enlarged 
 his ideas had he been there to see, ami it is 
 possible that for some time afterwards we 
 should hear fewer glowing — and imaginative 
 — descriptions of the noble savage and his 
 many wrongs. 
 
 At last, to oiir great relief, the train 
 started, and soon leaving the houses 
 and streets behind, we descended into the 
 shadowy vales, or climbed the steep inclines of the 
 hill country. " How thankful should we ))e to 
 be going north," I contentedly murmured, 
 feasting my eyes on the beauties of the sur- 
 rounding scenery. For some miles north of 
 Durban all the available land is cultivated. 
 Roimd about Umgeni we noticed extensive 
 coft'ee plantations, further on we passed 
 between hills covered \vith banana groves and 
 pineapple jilantations. The planters' bungalows 
 are generally Ijuilt ou the summits of the hills, 
 and the varied and extensive views from the 
 deep verandahs are Ix-autifxil beyond descr^ji- 
 tion. Now we pass through a J)it of -yv-ood- 
 land, intei'sected l)y sha<lowy winding paths, 
 the blue convolvuUis creeper tangled be- 
 tween the spreading trees ; next a fruit 
 f ^rm comes into \'iew with Kafi rs working in t b e 
 
 banana fields ; on the summits or wooded slopes 
 of yonder hills picturesque red houses, with 
 high-pitched tiled roofs, make bright gleams of 
 colour amid the sombre green. A turn in 
 the hills lirings into view a glimpse of shining 
 sunlit sea, while overhead float clouds like 
 fleecy flocks " shepherded by the slow unwilling 
 wind." The wayside stations are quaintly 
 pretty and exquisitely clean, with such charm- 
 ing little gardens filled with lilies of every form 
 and hue, glowing scarlet and gleaming gold or 
 purest white, blo\ving to and fro in the faint 
 warm wind, and the names of the stations often 
 appearing in lovely flowers on a bank of 
 emerald green. 
 
 There was a short delay at Bellair and oiir 
 carriage was presently invaded by three small 
 children with their elderly English nurse. F. 
 and I, being true child lovers, were quite undis- 
 turbed by this invasion, Ijut — well, F. always 
 waxes eloquent on this topic, and indeed it has 
 rarely been my lot to travel with such little 
 torments. No passenger was safe for a moment 
 from their unwelcome attentions, and 
 we looked out for each station with 
 mingled feelings of hope and dread, 
 hope that we should be relieved from the 
 company of the wee cherubs, and nervous 
 dread of the frightful jerks with which the; 
 train pulled uji and then .started again on its 
 upward way. The eldest girl of the noisy trio 
 was of a pioi^s turn of mind and would alter- 
 nately quote texts or, in a shrill treble voice, 
 announce her yearning desire to be an angel 
 and with the angels stand, yearnings which I 
 feared were not destined to be speedily .satisfied, 
 as in the intervals of taking breath she would 
 soundly smack her younger .sister, and then 
 sing of heavenly aspirations with renewed 
 vigour. Number '2 would promptly .set n\) a 
 terrific yell, and poor old nurse's oft-repeated 
 threats, " I'll whip you, darling," or " You'll ]>e 
 punished, lovey," uttered in a mild, tired voice, 
 pffoved quite unavailing to quiet the sweet 
 little dears. The baljy was quite the best 
 behaved, and gazed in blue-eyed wonder at h}^ 
 sister's antics, submitting with cooing joy to 
 being alternately stiueezed or smacked, but 
 presently watching his opportunity, he plunged 
 his little dimpled hands into Nximber 2's ciirly 
 hair, and pviUed with laughing delight, amid a 
 chorus of piercing shrieks! " How thankfiil 
 should we be!" v,-e exclaimed \7ith heartfelt 
 joy when o\\T lively little fellow-passengers were 
 finally Ijundled out with their exhausted old 
 hx\rse, and we left them continuing the fray at 
 Camperdown. 
 
 [" F. " adds: " After~per using 'E.'s' com- 
 ments on these little imps, I consider she has
 
 11 
 
 not done them full justice, nor can I. I should 
 like to engage another to write them np — 
 someone with the gift of language, like the 
 Dean of Cape Town. If our readers can 
 imagine within their bed curtains two mam- 
 moth mosquitos which they were prohibited 
 from molesting, Ijut which were allowed to 
 work their own sweet ^\■ill on them throughout 
 the night, just ponder a bit on that 
 idea, and the madness that took pos- 
 session of us will begin to make 
 itself known to you. Before leaving the sub- 
 ject of children and railway-travelling in their 
 society, let me commend to the railway authori- 
 ties in the Colony an arrangement on commercial 
 principles that works well in Natal, and that is 
 carriages are set apart for school children on 
 the suburlmn lines — one for boys and another 
 for girls, in siich trains as are running during 
 the hours of going to and returning from 
 school."] 
 
 We stopi^ed for lunch at Botha's Hill, 
 a charming little station commanding extensive 
 views of the vast hill country. We found the 
 refreshment-rooms clean and tidy, and the lunch 
 very tempting, while Kafir boys in neat holland 
 suits noiselessly attended to the passengers' wants. 
 Then on again climbing up towards Maritz- 
 btirg ; the gradients, though steep, are gradual, 
 curving round the hills from height to height. 
 We watched Math keen delight the afternoon 
 lights and shadows on the siirrounding country, 
 sunshine on the encircling hills, deepest 
 shadows in the wooded valleys. We passed 
 several kraals ; the grass huts, Uke huge bee- 
 hives, were perched on the summits or clus- 
 tered on the sides of the steepest hills. There 
 is a curious monotony though in the constant 
 succession of rounded folding hills and 
 long curving valleys extending as far as 
 the eye can reach on every side. We 
 travelled on the line t'udce, first climbing 
 the heights to Maritzburg, and then curving 
 down the hills to Durban, and had no great 
 wish to go the same way again. We mentally 
 contrasted the monotony of the scenery with the 
 ever-varying beauty of sea and land in the Cape 
 Peninsula. One may travel hundreds of times 
 along the Wynberg line, and never weary of 
 the changing tints of sunshiny plains extending 
 to the distant blue and })urplc hills, or the 
 rocky grandeur of the nearer mountains. New 
 every morning is the massive I)eaTity of the 
 mountain heights upreared in the early light, 
 while in the valleys below the night mists 
 Hee away. It is a daily inspiration, 
 bringing renewed hoi)e and courage, and when 
 the noise of the city is left l^ehind at evening, 
 the grand old mountain sends its own message 
 of peace and rest as the shadows lie deep in 
 the pinewoods, and the last ray of sunset gilds 
 the purple peaks. Such l)eauty is indeed a joy 
 for ever, for its loveliness inrmiKi s. 
 
 It was about three in the afternoon when the 
 red houses of Maritzburg ajipeared through 
 the trees on the hillsides, and we steamed into 
 
 the large, handsome station. Numbers of cabs 
 and rickshas were waiting outside, but we may 
 note in passing that the ^Maritzburg rickshas 
 and runners are very inferior to those in Dur- 
 ban. Our luggage was soon stowed away in a 
 quaint carryall labelled " Imperial," and we 
 gave the direction so oft-repeated in Natal that 
 it had become quite a familiar phrase, "Go to 
 iMrs. Thresh's." The grey mist and cool breezes 
 from the hills were most refreshing as we drove 
 through the qiiiet streets and pulled uji at a 
 delightful old red-brick house in Loop-street, 
 very unlike Cape Town Loop-street by the way, 
 for it is more like a broad country road, with 
 large gabled houses and charming gardens on 
 either side. Mrs. Thresh is the ]iroprietress of 
 the Imperial, and we foixnd her name quite 
 a household word throughout Natal 
 and beyond, but we ceased to wonder 
 at it after a fortnight spent at the charming 
 old hotel, an inn qiiite after Ruskin's heart. 
 The Imperial is a rambling old house, which 
 has been added to at various periods to suit 
 the increasing number of ^^sitors, and each 
 wing has its own stoep and verandah. All the 
 ; rooms are bright and airy, and nicely furnished, 
 I the walls of the large dining-room being 
 adorned with branching horns and other 
 trophies of the chase, for the late Mr. Thresh 
 was a mighty hunter. Mrs. Thresh has kept 
 the Imperial for over thirty years, and 
 is now assisted l)y two Ijright young 
 grand-daughters; she frankly owned that she 
 dehghted in housekeeping, looking upon it as a 
 fine art. We felt certain that if several hotels 
 of a similar type were established at our end of 
 j South Africa, increasing numbers of tourists 
 j and invalids would be attracted to the Cape as 
 ; a health resort. [Note by F. : "I must add to 
 j my testimony as to the comfort of the Imperial, 
 and the attention and courtesy of good, cheery 
 j Mrs. Thresh. The Imperial is to uiy mind the 
 perfection of a colonial hotel, with its comfort- 
 able, airy, weU-furnished bedrooms, excellent 
 cuisine, and scrupulous cleauHness."] 
 ^ We spent a delightfirlly idle fortnight in 
 3Iaritzburg, exploring places of interest in the 
 town and neighbourhood, taking long rambles 
 ' along country lanes during the cool morning 
 hours, or trotting about in rickshas late in the 
 afternoon. During the midday heat we idled 
 I over books and work under the Inroad verandah 
 j or in the cool airy courtyard of the Imperial, 
 where we rested, if not under our own vine and 
 figtree, then at least under uur neighbour's, for 
 vine leaves trailed over the red-I)rick wall, and 
 oranges himg within tempting distance. 
 
 Maritzljurg is built in a hollow surrounded 
 with green hills. The outskirts remin<l one of 
 a quiet English country to-^ni, with broad 
 roads, semi-detached villas, and a few hand- 
 some houses in well-kept grounds. The 
 illusion, however, is dispelled w'hen one goes 
 into the to^^Ti, especially on market days, when 
 crowds of Indians and Ijlanketed Kafirs are 
 constantly passing. Several of the streets
 
 12 
 
 branch off into f]iiiet little country lanes, ■wath 
 picturesque cottages and flower gardens, the 
 roses trailing over the hedges into the grass- 
 grown pathways. Clear streams ripple by, and 
 broad green fields and mealio plots stretch 
 away to the encircling hUls. 
 
 On the whole, Maritzbnrg is a much quieter 
 and less pretentious towu than Durban, and 
 there is a still more marked tendency to take 
 things " Bootjes " in the capital of Xatal than 
 in the port. There are several fine public 
 buildings, notably the Town-hall and Parlia- 
 ment Houses. We paid several visits to the 
 Post-oflfice, for the deUvery of letters, parcels, 
 kc, is both irregular and uncertain ; and we 
 set aside a morning for \'isiting some of the 
 public buildings. We went into the Supreme 
 Court— a square room vnth red draperies. A 
 general air of sleepiness pervaded it, and there 
 was an evident want of interest in the civil 
 cases occupying the attention of the barristers 
 who sat at a long table l)elow the judges" box. 
 We were much amused at the frequent repe- 
 tition of " My Lord " in their speeches. Then 
 We went on to the Towrt-hall, a fine, lofty, red- 
 brick building more imposing on the whole 
 than the Durban Town-hall. The hall itself is 
 artistically decorated, and is a spacious hand- 
 some room with a fine organ and orchestra. Re- 
 citals and concerts are frequently given, several 
 lady violinists playing in the orchestra. In the 
 same biiilding are several public offices, broad, 
 cool corridors, leading to the airy, well-fitted 
 rooms, nearly all of which were empty, for most 
 of the clerks and officials seemed to be out^- 
 !i sensible custom in such a trying climate. The 
 square clock tower is 127 feet high and 100 feet 
 from the street level. On hearing that we 
 wished Lo get to the top of the tower, the care- 
 taker produced a box of skewer-like pins, which 
 he handed to me with a solemn countenance. 
 Noticing my puzzled expression, he explained 
 that the ladders were very steep, and it was 
 therefore dangerous to attempt the ascent 
 without pinning one's skirts. Having no yearn- 
 ing desire for a sudden death, I followed his 
 advice, and we commenced ascending the wind- 
 ing stairs, which soon gave place to steep 
 ladders — steep I well, during the last stages of 
 our ascent the ladders were perfectly up- 
 right, and only by a hand-over-hand climb could 
 we reach the top. However, we did it, and 
 were amply rewarded by the magnificent view 
 over the town and surrounding coimtry. The 
 clock and bells in the tower are enormous, but 
 the chimes sound most musically over the quiet 
 town every quarter of an hour. The clock 
 dials are 8 feet 6 inches in diameter, the 
 jiendulum is 1 5 feet long and makes thirty 
 beats a minute, the hour hand measures 3 feet 
 and the minute hand 4 feet (5 inches. The 
 clock is illuminated by electricity at night. It 
 takes two natives an hour and a half every 
 week to wmd it up, and the cost of 
 the clock and bells was £1,200 — there ! This 
 information looks suspiciously like something 
 
 cribbed from a guide-book, doesn't it? But 
 it's not, really not, because we could not pro- 
 cure any such thing in Natal ; we fished out an 
 ancient South African directory, but all the 
 part relating to Natal had been carefully cut 
 out 1 No, I obtained my information from the 
 solemn caretaker, who, for a guide, was un- 
 xisually intelligent. Like Miss Dartle, we 
 thirsted for information, but we had to remain 
 \insatisfied or investigate for ourselves, for 
 even many old residents seemed to b» utterly 
 ignorant or indifferent with regard to the 
 resources of their country or its places of 
 interest. Well, the climate is trying. 
 
 P'rom the four turret windows we obtained 
 magnificent birdseye views in different direc- 
 tions. Just below us was the Market-square, 
 crowded mth wagons and long teams of oxen. 
 In the opposite direction stretched a long nar- 
 row street, with crowds of Indians and Kafirs 
 constantly passing. It was called Commercial- 
 road, our giaide said, but Arab-street would 
 have been a more suitable name, for most of 
 the low, dark shops seemed to be occupied by 
 Indian traders, dressed in flowing robes. They 
 lounged in the doorways or bargained with 
 Kafir women whe had come from the neigh- 
 bouring kraals for a day's shopping. 
 Several of the Maritzbiirg streets have 
 very familiar names. Church, Longmarket, 
 Loop, Burg, and Long streets, &c. Most of the 
 roofs are tiled. Our gaide remarked that 
 capital tiles ■were made in Maritzburg, also 
 machine-pressed bricks, which sold for about 
 .4*2 per 1,000. Beyond and around the town 
 are wooded hills, pretty country houses appear- 
 ing between the green trees, and on the summit 
 of a hill just outside the town rise the massive 
 red walls of the Lunatic Asylum. 
 
 We were glad to descend, and enjoyed the 
 cool breeze as we wandered under the shady 
 trees, pausing to admire the fine monuments 
 erected in the Public Gardens in memory 
 of the Zulu war. The Colonial Offices 
 are very poor buildings, little better than 
 a collection of shanties, and the Surveyor - 
 General's Department is equally shabby; we 
 have pleasant recollections though of the latter 
 office, owing to the untiring kindness and 
 courtesy of Mr. Masson, then acting Siirv'eyor- 
 General, who so generously placed his time and 
 wide knowledge at our disposal. W^e visited 
 the IMarket, which was fairly clean, a fountain 
 playing in the centre, and fine vegetables and 
 fruit were being sold by auction, starting at 
 farthing bids. We next visited the Houses of 
 Parliament, a large marble statue of the Queen 
 (" De vrouw met de witte pampoen," as we 
 have heard a similar statue described by 
 Grave-street passers-by) adorns the gar- 
 dens in front of the building. The 
 Legislative Council Chamber is a very handsome 
 room, there is a very good reporters' gallery 
 furnished with comfortable chairs, wires are 
 stretched across the ceiling to improve the 
 acoustic properties of the Council Chamber,
 
 13 
 
 so reporters have a fair chance of hearing the 
 debates. The Library is artistic and well-fitted, 
 as indeed are all the offices in the ParUament 
 building, many rooms being (juite luxuriously 
 furnished, colonial wood and workmanship are 
 used thr jughout. Churches abound in Maritz- 
 burg ; one Sunday morning ^^-e went to 
 service in the Roman Catholic Church, 
 a i>laiu. unpretentious building, and in the 
 evening to a native chapel, where the singing 
 was almost too hearty and unrestrained for 
 miisical ears. We thought S. Saviour's 
 Cathedi-al quite the most beautiful colonial 
 church we had ever seen, and lingered long in 
 the dim lovely chancel. Then we went on to 
 lunch at the Deanery. Passing through a 
 lovely garden and porch overgrown with roses, 
 we entered a quaint room filled with books and 
 flowers. We were charmed with the old-world 
 courtesy and hospitality of the silver-haird Dean, 
 and as we looked through the casement mndows 
 to the soft emerald lawn and shruVjbery, and 
 beyond to the folding green hills and grey sky, we 
 were vi'iidly reminded of a similar scene in the 
 dear home land. Xot quite the same though, 
 with ixs then it was glorious summer, but there 
 snow lay deep on the lawn, and ivy clusterd 
 round the study-windows where the silver- 
 haired rector sat writing', or may be looking 
 across to the meadows to the old walls of 
 Chester where the quiet Dee flows, or beyond 
 to the faint outlines of the Welsh hills against 
 the grey sky. 
 
 Another morning we visited Mr. Shepstone's 
 lovely home, and wandered in his garden, then 
 all aglow with lilies and roses. We rather 
 avoided schools, but visited the Maritzburg 
 College, a very handsome red-ltrick building 
 on a hill outside the town. The views from 
 there are magnificent and the outside of the 
 school-house is very imposing; the inside 
 does not correspond, however, the class-rooms 
 are small and shabby, and the furniture and 
 apparatus very clumsy and old-fashioned. 
 Major Herbert, Secretary to the Council of 
 Education, very kindly supplied lis with 
 the latest inspector's reports, kc. From the 
 code of standards I gleaned a dehghtful 
 bit of information, " The work of gills in 
 arithmetic will be judged more leniently than 
 that of boys.'' Now isn't that perfectly 
 charming — especially in a trying climate .' It 
 appealed with touching directness to one of us, 
 who had sad recollections of childish struggles 
 with the multiplication table, and who, having 
 painfully got as far as six times eight, had then 
 stuck fast. Childhood's days were long past, 
 but that merciful clause had a charm 
 9 
 
 of its own, and we commend it to the 
 attention of the Adderley-street authorities ! 
 Ours, too, is a trying climate, and only to few 
 is it given (and how thankful should we be for 
 it) to attain the serene mathematical heights of 
 strong-minded women. 
 
 We had now visited most of the pubhc biuld- 
 ings, except the a^iylum and lirewery. F. could 
 not get admittance to the latter ]jlace ; the 
 brewers, like the military, were exclusive, and 
 that reminds me — there was a sort of social 
 feud going on between the civilians 
 and the military. The former accused the 
 latter of exclusiveness — it seemed to us it was 
 the other way aliout ; but as mere outsiders we 
 became weary of the con.stant topic of conver- 
 sation, and anyhow, for social charm and 
 courtesy, we were inclined to give the palm to 
 the civilians. [Note by F. : " E. has inten- 
 tionally or accidentally omitted mention of a 
 race meeting which we attended while 
 at Maritzburg. It was a purely mili- 
 tary affair, and as neither the racing, 
 riding, nor horses engaged were notable, 
 simi^le aflusion to the fact that there is still a 
 racecourse at Maritzburg maj- suffice. I 
 remember the time when Natal was famous 
 for its racing stock. Is its glory departed 1 ''] 
 We shall ever retain gTateful memories of the 
 kindness and hospitality of our Maritz- 
 burg fi-iends. Especially do we treasure 
 the memory of delightful hours spent in 
 Judge Turnbull's pretty house and 
 garden, or at Major Herbert's charming- 
 country home, admiring the lovely pictures and 
 books or listening to the interesting conversa- 
 tion of our cultured and genial host : or again 
 at Dr. Hyslop's Vjeautiful little home near 
 the Asylum ^biit that requires a sepnrate 
 paper. We wound iip our gaieties with 
 an afternoon at Government House, which 
 is in every respect equal to an English 
 country residence. It is a large house, with a 
 high-pitched tiled roof ; there are quaii^t 
 gables and porches on all sides, and the exten- 
 sive grounds are kept in perfect order. Tennis 
 was going on in spite of the heart 
 but in that trying climate the players 
 never jjick up balls, that duty is per- 
 formed by Zulu boys. Most of the guests 
 dispersed on the green lawTis or strolled along 
 the winding paths, but we noticed the same 
 want of animation amongst the girls which 
 had struck us in Durban — they take their 
 pleasures sadly. 0"r holiday, alas, was fast 
 slipping by, and we decided to go north again, 
 and spend a quiet day at the Umgeni Falls,
 
 3.-ROUND ABOUT MARITZBURG-IN THE PARK- 
 THE UMGENI FALLS-THE ASYLUM. 
 
 The cataracts blow their trumpets from the 
 steeji, 
 
 The winds come to me from the tields of .sleej).— 
 IintnoiiaUty Ode. 
 
 Why rushed the discords in but that harmony 
 should be prized '.—Abt Voffler. 
 
 There are few pleasanter places in which to 
 idle away a summer morning than the park at 
 Maritzburg. It is on the whole much finer 
 than the Durban park, being better kept and 
 more frequented. Xature too has done much 
 for Maritzburg. the Umgeni ^Ninds through the 
 well-kept grounds, trees hang over the river, 
 and there are delightful drives and walks in all 
 directions. The park is a favourite resort after 
 the heat of the day, numbers of carriages and 
 rickshas are constantly passing, children play in 
 the long waving grass, their mothers and nurses 
 bringing their work or books, and resting on the 
 numerovis benches placed under the shady trees. 
 There is a cricket Oval, and — but I must stop a 
 minute, for F. is longing to have his innings. 
 
 [Note by F. : " Cricket, l)oth at Dxu-ban aud 
 Maritzljurg, is played under somewhat adverse 
 circumstances. Extreme heat and deluging 
 rain militating much against the successful 
 prcsecution of the game. There is doubtless 
 some good reason for playing in what is called the 
 summer, thoug'h I was not made aware of it, but 
 from what one hears, the climate in winter is 
 admirably adapted for cricket. The manifold 
 excellencies of the exponents of cricket, are 
 they not written in the chronicles of Xatal, the 
 Transvaal, and Kimberley, and my exjiectations 
 were raised high, as a keen lover of the ganie, 
 at the opportiinityha\nng arrived of witnessing 
 the prowess of the wielders of the willow and 
 the trundlers of Xatal and I must confess 
 to a certain feeling of disappointment at not 
 having those expectations more fully realised. 
 There are three or four giants among the 
 
 ncketers of Xatal, and it is hardly necessary 
 iD allude by name to Sewell, Davey, Bell Smjiih, 
 and Taberer. Sewell I look upon as the best 
 all-round cricketer South Africa has yet pro- 
 duced (not excepting the recognised champion, 
 Tancred). Sewell, in addition to exceptional 
 excellence in every department, is as keen aa 
 mustard, and as active as a cat, and 
 I shall be surprised if, wnth l)oth 
 bat and ball, he is not near the 
 top of the averages after the English matches 
 are concluded. Davey, of course, is well known 
 dowTi here, but Bell Smyth and Taberer are 
 new acquaintances, and are l)Oth men who 
 would make any representative combination 
 
 from Xatal a dangerous one. Among the 
 yovmger generation of players, i.i'., boys from 
 Hilton College and other large schools, there 
 are many displaying much promise, and Hkely 
 to train on. With regard to outside interest in 
 cricket, there is the same apathy on the part of 
 the general public that manifests itself here, 
 but even in a greater degree, for at no impor- 
 tant match, unless got up by the military, 
 did I see anything approaching a respectable 
 ring of spectators. Xo game can flourish, 
 as it oiight, unaccompanied by the exhilarating 
 applause which marks some prominent bit of 
 good play. Xo doubt cricket will become 
 more a game of the people now that Natal has 
 such a genuine and enthusiastic sportsman as 
 Governor, but it should not require the induce- 
 ment of a powerfixl leader of society to make 
 cricket popular. A fair line as to the general 
 quality of cricket at Xatal can be obtained 
 when I mention that many players score largely 
 in first-class cricket teams there, whereas they 
 were only looked on as moderate here. The 
 grounds both at Durban and IMaritzburg are 
 prettily situated, l)ut the tiirf is missing. An 
 attempt at turf in the outfield has been made 
 at Durban Oval, l)ut it is not a success.'] 
 
 As our fortnight at Maritzburg was fast 
 drawing to an end we decided to spend a day 
 at Howick in order to see the famous Umgeni 
 Falls before retiu-ning to Durban. We left by 
 the early train for the north and had a lovely day 
 for the journey. The train slowly climbed the 
 northern heights, and we had ample time to 
 enjoy the wide views of green hills and valleys. 
 For some miles beyond Maritzburg the land 
 wa" cultivated and we passed several pretty 
 country houses, with gardens all ablow with 
 lilies and roses. The vivid greenne.ss and soft- 
 ness of the folding hills was most re- 
 freshing, no rocks or krantzes were to be seen 
 anywhere. It was curious too to note that the 
 trees flourished on the tops of the hills, not in 
 the kloofs, until we got further north, when the 
 scenery became wilder and gi'ander, the hills 
 were dotted with kraals, the grass huts re- 
 sembling mushrooms on mounds of earth, and 
 the gullies and kloofs were well wooded. 
 
 We reached Howick, which is a pretty little 
 hamlet nesthng between green hills, before 
 midday, and had a pleasant drive to the hotel. 
 Our inquiries as to the direction of the Falls 
 were met by looks of stupia amazement, and 
 getting no reliable information, we set out to 
 investigate for ourselves. F. doubtfully 
 remarked that he thovxght he heard a sort of 
 hum, and we followed the faint sound, which
 
 15 
 
 soon increased to a roar. Following- a narrow 
 footpath across a field we came suddenly upon 
 the tlmgeni Falls. There is nothing- in the 
 surrotmdirig scenery to indicate any precipice 
 or waterfall. The soft green hills ex- 
 tend to the very verge of the falls. 
 The Umgeni winds quietly along and 
 then suddenly thunders sheer • down a steep 
 precipice with a deafening roar, the spray 
 spreading far and wide. The height of the 
 fall is 8(50 feet, and the precipice is almost 
 pei-pendicular. Our first view was from the 
 top. and the falls, swollen by recent heavy 
 rains, were simply magnificent. We got quite 
 giddy watching the ceaseless rush of the 
 waters, sometimes sjireading like finest lace- 
 work over dark, jutting- rocks, anon pouring in 
 chick volumes of water over gaps in the rocky 
 trags, and finally hissing and churning in a 
 deep, dark pool at the base of the precipice. 
 We were anxious to get a view from the bottom 
 of the falls, so managed with some difficulty to 
 scramble down into the gorge, liut as the 
 bushes and slijipery grass were saturated with 
 fecent rains, we were soon shivering with damp 
 and cold. We were rewarded though, for the 
 view was even grander than from the top, and 
 we stood long, looking upwards until we were 
 drenched, and were forced to retreat. As the 
 waters whirled in the dark pool foam and 
 spray like veils of thinnest lawn were spread- 
 ing in mists far around, and though we were 
 standing at a considerable distance from the 
 precipice, we were so enveloped in spray that it 
 was difficult to get a clear view of the lower 
 part of the falls. After all that ceaseless roar 
 and whirl at the foot of the crags it was sur- 
 prising to watch the Umgeni winding quietly 
 away again between the steep walls of the 
 valley. A picturesque red-brick house, belong- 
 ing to the Treasurer-General, is perched above 
 the valley, and commands a fine view of the 
 faUs. 
 
 [Here F. interposes: " I have no desire to see 
 a well-engineered roadway down to the bottom 
 of the falls for the convenience of elderly dames 
 and others who object to the slightest fatigue 
 intermingling -with their sight-seeing, but 
 something might be done for those who do not 
 desire to emulate the daring agility of the 
 chamois hunter of the A Ips, and who, at any 
 rate, like to rest from their labours after having 
 achieved their object. No doubt it is rare good 
 fun for the young men and maidens of Natal to 
 he^p one another down this tortuous and 
 slippery path, and that many picturesque 
 situations might form the subject of snap shots 
 from the opposite hillside, but for those whose 
 days of romance arc over I plead for a less pre- 
 cipitous descent."] 
 
 We were glad to get dry and warm over a 
 flrp in the tiny inn parlour. [F desires here 
 to unburden his mind and make a confession 
 to the following effect, " Notwithstanding the 
 charm I usually found in E.'s society, the sight 
 of a billiard- table of rather superior make and 
 
 in a better state of repair than is usually 
 looked for in out-of-the-way places like Howick, 
 was too much for me, carried my mind back 
 to days of long ago at the Civil Service Club, 
 Cape Town, and shook to its foundations the 
 resolution to withstand the temptations of this 
 fascinating game. The landlord was interviewed 
 and spanned in. After winning the 
 first game. I confidently offered fifty 
 in 100, and got so elated at continued 
 success that I entertained thoughts of chal- 
 lenging Natal generally to single combat on the 
 green -cloth."] 
 
 In the afternoon we decided to brave the 
 drizzling rain and drive to a large farm in the 
 neighbourhood. All our inquiries about farm- 
 ing and agriculture had been met with such 
 vague and negative replies that we were some- 
 what inclined t o quote the whole chapter on 
 snakes in Ireland, with slight alterations, and 
 simply say "There are in Natal no farms of any 
 description whatever." That, probably, would 
 be quite incorrect, but anyhow we failed to^get 
 any information as to the resources or cultiva- 
 tion of the colony even from people who ought 
 to have known something about it. The 
 farm we visited was, we were told, about the 
 finest and largest in the country, so we were 
 very much disappointed when we reached a 
 painfully new dwelling-house. The outbuildings 
 were poor and there seemed to be few signs of 
 cultivation, but dairy-farmiag on an extensive 
 scale was evidently carried on, for we were told 
 that 300 lb. of butter were sent weekly to 
 Durban and sold at Is. 4d. a lb. 
 
 The next morning it poured with rain, but 
 we managed a walk between the showers. 
 After we had shivered in ulsters for a long 
 time at the station the evening train came 
 slowly steaming in, and we descended through 
 the wreathing mists to Maritzburg. The 
 Umgeni Falls are well worth a visit, but 
 otherwise we found Howick a most depressing 
 place. It is consequently a favourite resort 
 for honeymoons. 
 
 The sight of the numerous kraals on the 
 hillsides had excited my curiosity, and on re- 
 turning to Maritzburg I persuaded F. to try 
 to get a nearer view. Mr. Masson kindly 
 offered to drive us to Teteleku's Kraal, one of 
 the largest in the neighbourhood. Wc set out 
 one frightfully hot afternoon, and after bump- 
 ing over a rough country road for several 
 miles, drew up at the foot of a steep hill. A 
 long wearisome climb followed, for we missed 
 our way and were (juite exhausted when we at 
 last caught sight of the beehive huts. Tete- 
 leku's Kraal is oji the summit of a high hill, and 
 on the next hillside is another kraal of similar 
 size. The views of the surrounding country 
 are magnificent, but wc were cruelly dis- 
 enchanted when we saw the squalor and dirt 
 of the huts and hard mud pathways. A fine 
 stalwart young Kafir woman with a fat baby 
 slung on her back welcomed us with many 
 grins, and we were soon surrounded by a crowd
 
 16 
 
 of children dressed (?) in beads. On inquiry 
 for Tetelekii we were told he had gone to towTi, 
 and had locked his hut door and taken the key 
 with him. Yes, indeed, the hnt had a real 
 wooden door securely padlocked — such is the 
 spread of civihsation ! On the ^^'hole it was 
 not a pleasant visit, and when F. distribiited 
 some coins and we were instantly sur- 
 rounded by a crowd of yelling- Kafirs, I 
 became quite alarmed, and followed the 
 example of a small brother who once went to see 
 a monkey, and when it came alarmingly near, 
 remarked in trembling', would-V)e matter of 
 fact voice, " Don"t you think it's time to go 
 home to tea .' " Well, we went home to tea. 
 F. made sarcastic remarks about peojile who 
 always wanted their own way, and — we visited 
 no more Kafir kraals. [F. disclaims any in- 
 tention of making the aforesaid sarcastic 
 remarks public, but adds, " I content myself 
 with recommending young ladies to content 
 themselves with viewing semi -barbarous life 
 through the medium of books, and the aid of 
 their own fertile imaginations."] 
 
 Before leaving Maritzburg, we accepted Dr. 
 Hyslop's invitation to spend a day at the Natal 
 Government Asylum, which is quite a model 
 institution. We had previously attended one 
 of the weekly Monday evening entertainments, 
 and had been much interested in all we had 
 seen. The recreation-room is a beautiful large 
 hall, most artistically decorated, and with a 
 perfect floor for a dance. The programme was 
 varied, consisting alternately of music, dancing, 
 &c. ; visitors, nurses, and patients con- 
 tributing to the entertainment. The patients 
 thoroughly entered into the spirit of the even- 
 ing, and ifc was a real pleasure to watch the 
 evident enjoyment of each item on the pro- 
 gramme. We were quite surprised to find 
 most of the patients quite famiUar with both 
 square and round dances, indeed many of 
 them danced remarkably well. The 
 nurses said they had constant practice, and 
 eagerly looked forward to each Monday even- 
 ing. When one's first feeling of nervousness 
 had worn oft' there seemed to be nothing out of 
 the way in dancing with lunatics ; indeed, it 
 was often difficult to detect any signs of 
 insanity. Dancing the lancers wdth an 
 elderly partner, who stared straight ahead, but 
 had a strong preference for dancing the figures 
 hiichnrdrda, was a wee bit trying ; so also was a 
 lenjjthy waltz with an energetic (like-ndse 
 elderly) partner, who insisted on beginning 
 with the first note of the music, and never 
 paused to take breath till the last 
 note had died away. As a rule we 
 found it difficult to get the patients to 
 enter into conversation ; but I had a 
 pleasant dance with a partner who talked most 
 sensibly, and was quite surprised to hear from 
 the doctor that he was a bad patient, but this 
 happened to be one of his lucid intervals. It 
 was difficult too to recogTii.se any signs of 
 insanity in a sweet-looking, elderly lady with 
 
 soft, silvery hair. She was very fond of music, 
 and thanked F. with touching sweetness for the 
 two songs he contributed to the programme. 
 A comical performance with castanets by a 
 visitor gave great delight, as did also a step- 
 dance executed with marvellous agility by a 
 patient over seventy years of age, but who 
 would not acknowledge to Ijeing a day 
 over twenty-seven. Rosser, the accomplished 
 carpenter (of whom more anon), contributed 
 a song, to his own evident satisfaction. Dr. 
 Hyslop told us that patients who excelled in 
 any accomplishment were keenly jealous of 
 new-comers who displayed similar talents. 
 M'ls. Hyslop was an untiring accompanist, 
 and by her kindness and charm of manKer 
 succeeded in making the evening's entertain- 
 ment pass off most pleasantly, for her bright 
 cheeriness seemed to infect all present. We 
 were charmed, too. with the sweet-faced lady 
 matron, and the bright, energetic young 
 nurses, several of whom played and 
 sang with great taste. [This brings to 
 F.'s mind the case of one female patient 
 which much interested him. He remarks : 
 •' I had picked this face out of the crowd as one 
 which puzzled me from its utter vacuity of ex- 
 pression. In most countenances one could 
 trace some gleams of intelligence and interest 
 at times in what was going on, but in this poor 
 girl's case it seemed ' total eclipse.' To enable 
 me to satisfy myself of her incaiiacity of being 
 roused, I inquired of ]\Irs. Hyslop whether I 
 might ask her to dance, and having obtained 
 permission was amazed to find her a most 
 accomi^lished dancer, and that, although I tried 
 her skill in all the possible dodges of a round 
 dance, she beat me hollow at my own game, 
 but not one word of conversation or smile 
 of amusement or iilcasure could I extract. I 
 afterwards made some inquiries concerning her, 
 and ascertained that her mind was an utter 
 blank as far as receptiveness went, but that 
 accomplishments of which she had been the 
 possessor before reason failed her she retained 
 to a marvellous extent, and that she would sit 
 do^vn to the piano and play for hours music 
 with which she had been formerly f amihar, but 
 if new miisic were placed before her it con- 
 veyed no meaning. Such cases speak to us so 
 eloquently and yet so sadly : though li^ang 
 they are dead."J 
 
 We had been so much interested and pleased 
 that we gladly accepted an invitation to spend 
 a long day at the asylum and go over all the 
 buildings. One bright sunny morning we 
 drove along a country road to the asyliim gates. 
 The Natal Government Asylum is built on a 
 hill outside Maritzburg, and is surrounded with 
 extensive grounds. A winding drive through 
 the beautiful gardens brought us to the doctor's 
 pretty house. We thought it one of the most 
 charming homes we had visited in Natal, and 
 the courtesy and hospitality of Dr. and Mrs, 
 Hyslop made the day we spent with them one 
 of our pleasantest memories. The doctor was
 
 17 
 
 busy with some patients, so Mrs. Hyslop received 
 ns. She was evidently keenly interested in all the 
 patients and work connected with the asylum, 
 and we were thoroughly interested in all she 
 told us. The woodwork, both oiitside and in- 
 side their house is very beautiful and artistic, 
 and we were surprised to learn that it was all 
 designed and executed by Eosser. We sat under 
 the verandah, and the scene in front of us was 
 a summer idyl — the garden ablaze with flowers, 
 slender feathery bamboos waving- in the faint 
 warm wind, and the vast hill country stretch- 
 ing away to the distant gTey horizon. 
 
 After lunch Dr. Hyslop took us over the 
 asylum. It is a very handsome, red-brick 
 building, with high-pitched, overhanging tiled 
 roof and lofty turret tower. Grass terraces 
 slope away from the dark red walls, and the 
 grounds are very extensive and are kept in 
 beautiful order. There are broad gravelled 
 walks, shrubberies, lawns, and gardens, also a 
 fine cricket ground and jjretty conservatory. 
 Mounting the broad flight of steps, we entered 
 a large airy hall with tiled floor; there was 
 a beautifully carved hat-stand, also) a 
 flower- stand filled \yith potted plants 
 and ferns. "Rosser"s work," Dr. Hyslop re- 
 marked. Rosser is a patient mth a talent for 
 carving and carpentering which almost amounts 
 to genius, and evidences of his industry and 
 skill were to be seen in every room. We first 
 visited the female ward, where the polished 
 floor fairly shone with cleanliness. Next came 
 the pretty little chapel, with desks and seats 
 skilfully carved by the clever carpenter. Then 
 we passed on to the spacious recreation-room 
 with large casement windows commanding 
 wide views of the surrounding country. 
 
 It is impossible to sjDeak too highly of the 
 spotless ijurity and cleanhness of the wards 
 and other rooms, and of the brightness and 
 cheeriness which prevailed everywhere. We 
 were specially struck with the ingenious sliding 
 window- shutters and the artistic dados and 
 tints on the painted walls. Entering a pretty, 
 weU-furnished, private sitting-room we found 
 the musical old lady, who at once recognised F. 
 and began talking to him about musical 
 matters. Indeed we were pleasantly sur- 
 prised at being recognised by several 
 patients who had seen us at the Mon- 
 day evening's entertainment. In some of the 
 storerooms were large cupboards, and Dr. Hyslop 
 asked us to examine the wood graining care- 
 fully. To our astonishment we discovered all 
 sorts of weird figures in tlie graining — curious 
 creatures with antlered horns, hinnan faces 
 with distorted expressions ; there was not an 
 aimless line, and the figures and scenes repre- 
 sented were intermingled in every conceivable 
 way. The work was the outcome of Rosser's 
 vivid but uncontrolled imagination, and yet 
 , the general appearance of the wood, until 
 closely examiined, resembled ordinary graining. 
 In the spacious yard we found numbers of 
 patients enjoying the fresh air and sunshine 
 
 under the charge of bright young nurses. 
 Beyond the yard was another large biiilding, 
 which used to be the old hospital, but is now 
 used for native quarters. There are about 160 
 patients, as they are received from the Trans- 
 vaal and Free State, as well as Natal. We 
 mounted the tower, and had a splendid view 
 of Maritzburg, the red houses locking most 
 pictiu-esque between the trees. The Tov^-n- 
 hall and Clock Tower stood out boldly, but we 
 were struck by the absence of spires in the 
 town. Wooded hills and valleys folded into 
 one another on all sides. Overhead was a dull, 
 grey sky, but a soft wind was blow- 
 ing, and as the clouds parted there 
 were sudden gleams of sunshine, which 
 added to the variety and beauty 
 of the tints on the hills, pale-green, emerald, and 
 bluish-grey in the dim distance. Long shadows 
 swept over the woods and valleys, but anon a 
 break in the clouds threw a burst of sudden 
 sunshine on the gardens l^elow, while afar were 
 still " the fine glooms on the rare Ijlue hills." 
 
 After leaving the main building we visited 
 Rosser's workshop, where we found much to 
 interest us, and had a leng-thy discussion with 
 the clever workman. The room was filled 
 with specimens of his skill, and he 
 seemed to jiossess every imaginable tool. 
 F. congratulated him on the latter pos- 
 sessions, but gave great offence, as it is one of the 
 carpenter's delusions that he does all his work 
 either without proper tools or with very im- 
 perfect instruments. He was also offended at 
 being congratulated on his clever handiwork, 
 and indignantly asserted that his work was 
 professional. He likewise objected to Mrs. 
 Hyslop's covering the inlaid wood floor of her 
 hall with a rug, but was soothed when the 
 doctor told him it was done to preserve the 
 beautiful workmanship. Hearing that F. was 
 interested ^ in engineering he entered into a 
 lengthy discussion with him, explaining his 
 clever plans and exhibiting their neat 
 draughtsmanship with conscious ]iridc 
 which increased to positive delight when 
 he succeeded in puzzling F. with a 
 particularly complicated diagram. We were 
 keenly interested in his ingenious contrivances 
 and inventions, churns warranted to i>roduce 
 butter in an incredibly short time, movable 
 desks and music-stands, ^c. One hardly knew 
 which to admire most, the inventive geniiis 
 shown in the mechanical contrivances or the 
 imagination and patient skill displ.nyed in the 
 workmanship throughout, especially in the 
 exijuisitely carved figures and ornaments. [F. 
 chimes in: " Never before have I felt so conscious 
 of having put my foot in it as during the quar- 
 ter of an hour spent in this workshop. Dr. 
 Hyslop specially warned me not to enter into 
 anything controversial with poor Rosser, but I 
 did not understand him to mean that I 
 was to forbear from admiring and taking 
 apimrent interest in the appliances at his com- 
 mand, and the ingenuity he had displayed ia
 
 18 
 
 their use. Consequently when I innocently 
 referred to them, it was at once api^arent to 
 me that J had done the very thiu^ I ought not 
 to have done, and no sooner had I ventured to 
 air my own very slight knowledge of some 
 properties in a model of Rosser's design, than 
 he was off Uke a turning lathe on one pressure 
 of the foot on the treadle, soon had me out of 
 my depth, and became so excited that Dr. H. 
 had to curtail oiu- visit and adroitly get rhe out of 
 further mischief."] We had no time for further 
 investigations, and as Mrs. Hyslop detained us 
 for tea, it was late in the day when we bade a 
 reluctant farewell to the doctor and his wife, 
 the pleasantest and most interesting friends 
 we had made in Natal. Dr. Hyslop seemed to 
 us in every way eminently fitted for the re- 
 sponsiljle position he holds as head of the 
 asylum, which he has made quite a model insti- 
 tution of its kind. The doctor's striking 
 
 personality is not easily forgotten, the thought- 
 ful, resolute face, and singularly bright 
 luminous eyes showing jjlainly keen intellect 
 and determination, and coolness and readiness 
 of resource in emergencies. In him too we 
 foiind that wide sympathy, bright unselfishness, 
 and clearsightedness ,which one never looks for 
 in vain in good physicians, for the asylum 
 doctor is in every way a worthy representative 
 of the noblest of professions. 
 
 As we left the asylum and talked over the 
 day's experiences and imijressione, F. expressed 
 his unbounded admiration of the unselfish 
 devotion shown by the good doctor, his wife, 
 and the bright young nurses. I called to mind 
 an article of the creed which the Master of S. 
 George's Guild, himself one of the noblest of 
 living humanitarians, gave to his disciples and 
 repeated with renewed conviction, " I believe in 
 the nobleness of human nature."
 
 4. -THE TRAPPIST MONASTERY AT MARIAIN NHILL. 
 
 " Do ye next thynge." 
 
 One grey, misty morning we bade farewell to 
 Maritzburg and turned southward to Durban, 
 planning to break the journey at Pinetown, 
 and visit the famous Trappist Monastery. I 
 had persisted in fulfilling my long-cherished 
 wish to see the silent friars at work, in sjjite of 
 F.'s amused wonder as to what possible 
 pleasure a person who was not given to prac- 
 tising the golden rule of silence could find in 
 spending a day with the Trappists ! As the 
 train slowly steamed out of the station, and 
 we took a last look at the red houses on the 
 wooded hills of Maritzburg, the nearer mists 
 parted, revealing the marvellous play of light 
 and shadow on the hills and valleys through 
 which OUT journey lay. No words fitly describe 
 that wonderful hill country. One might liken 
 it to a vast ocean, whose waves, suddenly 
 arrested in full motion, lay here in great green 
 billows with trough-like valleys between, there 
 in long smooth waves curving and cross- 
 ing in all directions, anon in gentle 
 undulations, or dimpled into myriads of 
 emerald ripples. The train curved from hill to 
 hill, downward, ever downward, till we reached 
 Pinetown. A wagonette was waiting at the 
 station, and the driver, a brown-robed friar, 
 welcomed us cordially. Brother Crispin, being 
 one of the visitors' guides, was no longer bound 
 by the vow of silence, and chatted gaily as we 
 jolted along the rough country road, which, we 
 were gravely informed, was kept in order l)y 
 the brothers at great expense. 
 
 [Interpolation by F., the other of we : " Oh, 
 that road, triumph of engineering skill though 
 the holy friar considered it. Jolted along it 
 does E. say .' Utterly inadequate description. 
 To begin with, that wagonette could never 
 have been built at Mariannhill, or if so, long 
 before the present stage of develoi^ment in 
 that industry, and dear Brother Crispin, 
 much as I admire him, and varied as 
 are his accomplishments, shines not as a 
 Jehu, save and except that he driveth 
 furiously. The sensation experienced throughout 
 the drive was that of being tossed incessantly 
 in a blanket, without however the comforting 
 assurance that you would come douTi soft, or 
 indeed inside what you had emerged from, such 
 was the rate at which we sped along. To 
 intensify the discomfort too, a fair sized tin-box 
 with unrounded edges, and i)acked to liursting 
 point, lay loose, and V)ounded with sportive 
 playfulness from side to side with every lurch 
 we gave, occasionally accompanying us in our 
 upward flights. E. did nothing but laugh im- 
 moderately and most disrespectively at my 
 
 evident anxiety on her account (laughter 
 mingled with tears and soitow next day), and 
 joined not in my fervent maledictions on the 
 lrap2)isttt< and all their n-(ii/s."'\ 
 
 We met several friars driving heavy wagons 
 as we ]m8sed through fertile valleys and over 
 green hills crowned with palms and tree^ferng, 
 and the low grey mist brooded over all. 
 
 After about twenty minutes' drive, we saw 
 the massive red buildings of the convent and 
 monastery. Our guide suggested that we should 
 visit the mill first, so we passed the shady 
 cemetery with its rows of wooden crosses. 
 Nuns in scarlet robes made bright gleams of 
 colour amongst the trees as they worked in the 
 convent garden. On the hillside down to the 
 banks of the winding river in the valley below 
 were extensive groves of orange trees and 
 l^lantations of pineapples and bananas. 
 Although jVIariannhill grounds are twelve 
 thousand (1 :^,00()) acres in extent, there was no 
 grazing ground and no attempt at dairy-farm- 
 ing, animal food and even butter being forbid- 
 den to the Ijrothers. As we drove down a 
 wooded kloof, the soft hill country gave place 
 to grander forest scenery. The road descended 
 between overhanging cliffs, the river winding 
 through the valley widened into miniature lakes, 
 along the banks grew magnificent trees, which 
 were clearly reflected in the still waters be'ow. 
 The noonday stillness, wealth of summer 
 foliage and gleaming waters, wooded hills and 
 valleys lost in dimmest distance, made up a 
 dream of beauty. The vision of the Happy 
 Valley in Rasselas became a lovely reality. 
 
 The wagonette drew up at the door of a large 
 building. " Printing-rooms and mill,'' our 
 guide explained. In the first room we were 
 very much inkirested in a large printing press, 
 but while we Were watching the friars at work, 
 one of them had an eager sigii-conversation 
 with our guide. It wasfjuite amusing to watch 
 the rapid gestures and ready understanding of 
 thelu'others, but my amusement changed to 
 discomfiture when Brother Crispin sorrowfully 
 informed me that the new Abl)ot's rule being 
 stricter, ladies were not admitted into the 
 buildings : 1 might however, he added humor- 
 ously, look through the windows ! Trying, was 
 it not .' It is only fair to add, however, that by 
 dint of pleading, and disi)laying a shabby little 
 notebook and stumpy pencil ("a girl cii/i cut a 
 pencil if you give her time enough and pencils 
 enough," was a small boy's scolHng remark), I 
 melted the stern monk's hard heart, and was 
 admitteil into all the workshoi)s. only the mon- 
 astery proper being closed to me. Meanwhile, in 
 rather a discontented mood, J rested outside on a 
 block of wood, and watched the brothers at
 
 20 
 
 •vfork in the garden. " Yon haf now the best 
 plaisnre sitting here, " was Brother Crispin's 
 consoling remark. A beantifnl little chapel 
 was being bnilt near the mill, all the bricks 
 being made on the premises. On a distant hill 
 rose the red walls of a large native chapel. 
 Most of the Government printing and engrav- 
 ing is done at Mariannhill. Large orders are 
 taken, and many of the brothers are employed 
 setting type, bof)kbinding, ])rinting. engTaving, 
 &;c. The machinery is of Itahan make, mth 
 the latest improvements. Near the printing- 
 room was a large mill for grinding Kafir corn. 
 While F. was inspecting the workrooms, I 
 remained listening to the drone of the press, 
 the tapping of workmen's hammers at the 
 chapel, and the twittering of birds in the sunny 
 garden : then I looked np at the windows. 
 Some of the friars were looking ont. 
 
 [Interpolation by F. : -'No comment here on 
 E.'s curiosity to know whether the friars who 
 had been vouchsafed one glimpse of her would 
 be able to resist the temptation of yet another, 
 but merely the passing allusion to looking up 
 at the windows, and the friars looking ovit. 
 Strange coincidence I the one touch of simple 
 hiiman nature oliservable diuing that \asit."] 
 
 We drove back to the convent, and alighted 
 at a gate opening on to a sunny courtyard. 
 Brother Crispin rang the bell, and I thought of 
 Mercy at the wicket-gate, when a sweet-faced 
 nxm in scarlet rolies opened the convent door, 
 and gravely welcomed iis. The rules at the 
 convent are apparently less severe than at the 
 monastery : the nuns are e%ndently allowed to 
 talk. Probably it proved impossible to make 
 women maintain the rule of absolute silence. 
 Then, too. their dress is decidedly picturesque 
 and bscoming. They all wear sandals, a 
 scarlet robe with black cape, and blue apron, 
 and a pretty white linen cap. Most of the 
 nuns seemed healthy, energetic women, with 
 fair, German faces, and bright, s^'mpathetic 
 manners. 
 
 AVe waited for a few minutes in the ^'isitors' 
 room, and then a sister came to show ns the 
 convent. We passed through a beaiitiful airy 
 workroom into a little chapel adorned with 
 palms and fair, white lilies. I inquired about 
 the schools, native education on a large scale 
 being carried on at IMariannhill. " Yes, we 
 have eighty girls in training at the 
 convent ; £2:>0 per annum is con- 
 trilmted by the Xatal Government 
 towards the boys' and girls' schools. 
 Come and see the babies at tea." In a bright, 
 clean room the wee folks were tucking into 
 moalie porridge, and they gaily repeated a sort 
 of religious formula in answer to Brother 
 Crispin's greeting when we entered and left 
 the hall. Aljout 200 boys and girls are sup- 
 ported and educated at IMariannhill — 8()(» 
 children altogether at the various Trappist in- 
 stitutions in So\ith Africa. The average training' 
 lasts five or six years; wcirk afterwards is 
 ▼oluntary; the pupils may remain at the insti- 
 
 tutions or return to their homes. There have 
 been some failures, of course, but Brother 
 Crispin seemed very hopeful as to the children's 
 future usefulness. In another large workroom 
 numljers of girls were busy plaiting hats 
 with great skill ; others were darning and 
 knitting. A bright-looking sister presided 
 over a knitting-machine. There were a few 
 white girls, biat the majority were natives. All 
 seemed busy and contented. We crossed the 
 ground to another building, and, mounting the 
 steep stairs, entered the sewing-room, where 
 the elder girls were doin^- the most exquisite 
 work both by machine and hand. There were 
 thirty Pfaff semng-machines in the room, and 
 all the clothing is made by girls, siipervised by 
 he nuns. Brother Crispin told us that the 
 older native girls were better ^\•orkwomen than 
 Europeans. " As a rule," he added, " natives 
 pick up handicrafts quickly, but book know- 
 ledge not so quickly." We visited the 
 dining-room and schoolrooms, all exquisitely 
 clean, stone floors, and plain wooden furniture, 
 the walls whitewashed but decorated with 
 bright pictures. The teaching is carried on in 
 Kafir and English, both of whicli are foreign 
 languages to the Germn,n sisters, and have to 
 be carefully studied. We were amazed at the 
 large dormitory and long rows of beds, a cubicle 
 at each end for the sister in charge. " Why, 
 the chattering must be deafening!'' we ex- 
 claimed. '■ Dere is no chattering in dis place." 
 was the calm reply. The children rise at 4.30 
 a.m. and go to Ijed between 7.;^0 and eight 
 p.m. AVe next visited the large kitchen, where 
 the girls are taught cookery ; only wood is 
 burnt, coal not being obtainable. We rested 
 in the si.sters' dining-room, a large, airy hall, 
 all the appointments, though plain, being in 
 good taste. 
 
 As we left the convent and walked along the 
 shady avenue, several girls who had been busily 
 engaged in field-work, came running up from 
 I the garden and mealie plots. Some were romp- 
 j ing and shouting gaily, the younger ones 
 I playing \\-ith skipiiing-ropes. 'Their e^ddent 
 enjoyment of work and jilay, their strong, 
 rapid movements, and look of radiant health 
 I and childlike joyousness, were simply delight- 
 I ful. " How hai^py they seem,'' I remarked to 
 I the sister walking with me. She turned with 
 a surprised look, and then her sweet face lit up 
 with a smile like a sunlieam. "But yes, my 
 I child, of course they are happy ! ' I studied 
 her calm face closely, the soft brown eyes, firm, 
 patient, contented mouth, and expression of 
 giave serenity — " a face like a benediction.'' 
 Doubtless she and her fellow-workers were 
 learning the great lesson that Paradise is begiin 
 on earth whenever self is lost in love, and dis- 
 content in submission to the Divine Will. 
 
 [Interpolation by F. : '• One could not biit feel 
 on leaving the convent that under certain 
 conditions and circumstances, brought about 
 maybe by the untoward and sad exi^eriences 
 of earlier vears. convent life, such as that of
 
 21 
 
 Mariannhill, freed from the severe austerity 
 g-euer;illy practised, and situated as 
 the convent is, in the midst of a veritable 
 garden of Eden, is not an undesirable or 
 unhappy one for those craving for a haven of 
 rest from what has ))een to them a sea of 
 trouble ; but for the young, as yet scarcely 
 conscious of what life's joys are, and still in 
 hai)py ignorance of aught but the lightest of its 
 sorrows, oh, no."] 
 
 Brother Crispin now led the way to the 
 monastery, huge red -brick buildings, most of 
 which were workshops. He told us there were 
 ten other Trappist stations in the colony. The 
 Mariannhill Monastery was established in 1881. 
 All the members of the commvinity come from 
 Germany.^[F. adds : " And number amongst 
 them men thoroughly capable of designing and 
 executing not only all buildings and works 
 hitherto erected and in i)rogress, but of carry- 
 ing out and superintending every description of 
 undertaking that is establishing the fame 
 of the institution."'] — There are 150 monks and 
 sixty nuns at Mariannhill, and ISUO monks and 
 280 nuns in the whole colony. The institutions 
 are mainly self-supporting, though, our guide 
 added, they had benefactors in Germany. We 
 first visited the workshop devoted to tanning 
 and leather w^ork. All sorts of saddlery, 
 leggings, kc, are made, and repairs executed. 
 Next came the blacksmith's and wheelwright's 
 shops, near which we saw numbers of strong 
 wagons and ploughs. Indeed the brothers are 
 famous for the strength and neatness of theii' 
 carriages and other vehicles The large lofty 
 carpenter's shoji jiroved most interesting. The 
 room was well lighted, at one end stood a large 
 blackboard for illustrations ; at the other end 
 a stand held all sorts of tools in shining order. 
 Carriage-building was going on, and in other 
 shops watchmakers, tinsmiths, shoemakers, 
 tailors, &c., were hard at work, in fact every 
 sort of industry seemed to be successfully 
 carried on. It is a noteworthy fact that all the 
 hard manual labour is actually done by the 
 brothers, and they are most successful in 
 teaching trades to the natives and 
 training them in habits of industry. Indeed, 
 the Trappist brothers are doing much to solve, 
 both theoretically and practically, the many 
 problems connected with the large and increas- 
 ing native population in Natal. Not long after 
 our visit to the monastery we were much in- 
 terested in a clear and able article on the 
 native question byFr. Franz Abbot. Jt appeared 
 in the " Natal Witness,"' and attracted consider- 
 able attention by reason of the clearness of the 
 views set forth, and the soimd common sense 
 shown in the practical suggestions for solving 
 some of the problems of the native question. 
 
 Having seen all the workshops, out guide 
 asked me to wait in the native church while he 
 took F. to the monastery. The cliurcli was a huge 
 shed, closed in on one side, the curtains Ijeing 
 drawn up on the other. It reminded one 
 of descriptions of the Israelites' tabernacle. 
 
 Narrow wooden benches were arranged in rows 
 
 on the rough uneven stone floor. Scriptural 
 inctures adorned the walls, and the 
 chancel was elaborately ornamented. It all 
 seemed like a dream as I wait«d alone in the 
 dim vast oratory. I looked out over the distant 
 hills and enjoyed the cool evening air and in- 
 tense stillness, while groups of silent brothers 
 passed to and fro, some in dark-l)rown robes 
 with leather belts and sandals, others in light- 
 browTi robes ^vith black scapulas. Presently 
 one of the brothers approached the shed 
 and began beckoning and signing to 
 me. One felt irresistibly inclined to make sigTis 
 in return instead of asking what he wanted, 
 however, after puzzling a minute. I concluded 
 that Brother Crispin had sent for me, so I fol- 
 lowed the silent friar to the monastery church, 
 where, sure enough, F. was waiting with our 
 guide. Unfortunately the bell was tolling for 
 vespers, so we had no time to thoroughly 
 study the really lovely church. One 
 carried away a beaiitiful memory of a 
 dim lofty building with carved pillars and 
 vaulting arches. Exquisite paintings adorned 
 the walls, and the \\"indows were of finest 
 grained glass. The church and all the other 
 monastery buildings were de.sig-ned by Brother 
 Nivart Steicher, engineer and architect to the 
 community. We were fortimate iu meeting 
 Brother Nivart, a monk with a fair, refined 
 face, clear grey eyes, and singularly bright 
 expression. Being one of the travelling friars, 
 he was of course exempt from the vow of 
 silence, and talked in a bright, interesting way, 
 with plenty of quiet humour. We had heard 
 him spoken of in Maritzburg as a very able 
 man, and found him very delightful. It 
 seemed hard to realise that the ([uitt, modest 
 young monk, clad in brown robe and sandals, 
 was really a clever practical engineer and 
 designer of all those great buildings, in fact, 
 he seemed to Ije the genius of the community. 
 
 On our way to the boys" schools, F. started 
 an argument with our guide with regard to the 
 vows of silence. " What is the use of con- 
 demning ainaii to perpetual silence.'"' asked 
 F. " Den he has de more time to dink "" (like the 
 parrot I), " dere is also no quarrelling, but a 
 steady peace," was Brother Crispin's prompt 
 rej)ly. " But does tliis not tend to weaken and 
 crush the monk's intellectual life.'"" Our 
 guide somewhat lamely argued that intellect 
 was not nccdeil by tlie majority of the brothers. 
 The Trappists, he in-uutained, were a working 
 community, a few iiuist lead and think for the 
 many who had to lie led, and the lattiv had 
 nc need to develop their mental faculties, their 
 duty was to submit to their superiors, and be 
 content with the things within their reach. 
 
 All, but a nian"s reacii should exceed his grasp. 
 Or what's a lu^n\en for .' 
 
 I listenal toBrothei'Crisi)in's exj)lanati()ns in 
 amused silence, and no longer wondei'ed at the 
 want of animation and cheerfulness so paiu-
 
 22 
 
 f uUy noticeable among the monks. Father Wil- 
 helm and the two friars, Crispin and Xivart, 
 all of whom were freed from the vow of silence, 
 were the only alert, cheerfvd men in the com- 
 munity. The rest of the brethren presented a 
 dejected, limp appearance ; many looked half 
 dazed. I thought the good friar'sargument quite 
 wrong, and think too that he was arguing 
 against his own inward convictions. The 
 keenest pathos of life lies in the sense of wasted 
 forces and repressed energies. The truest hap- 
 piness lies in the unselfish living out of one's 
 inner powers, the daily strengthening of one's 
 highest faculties, the hannonious development of 
 
 The inward forces which from God do flow. 
 Which with a Father's love He imto men has 
 
 given, 
 That by their means they may U]>raise them- 
 selves to heaven. 
 
 But our thoughts turned to more practical 
 matters as we inspected the hosi)ital and boys' 
 dormitories and dining-rooms. The boys were 
 at supper, juniors and seniors in separate rooms, 
 with a friai' in charge of each table. We were 
 amused at their appetites for mealie bread and 
 porridge. The older boys were allowed as much 
 as they liked, the little ones. Brother Crispin 
 laughingly explained, only one large basin of 
 porridge Bnd a himch of bread. I should add 
 that the monks in no way fared better than 
 the children under their charge. Their dormi- 
 tory arrangements, wooden beds and rough 
 blankets, are exactly the same, and they share 
 the same coarse l)ut wholesome food. The 
 schoolrooms, which we were told were, daily 
 filled with aljout 180 boys, were clean and well' 
 ventilated. The furniture strong and the 
 appliances efficient. We noticed several excel- 
 lent maps, including Stanley's map of the Congo 
 basin. The Abbot's charter, illuminated in 
 scarlet and blue and gold, brightened the white- 
 washed wall. From the Government 
 Inspector's report for 1892 I noted 
 the instruction in industries as follows : " Boys 
 — Tailoring, shoemakers, masons, wheelwrights, 
 l)Iacksmiths. tinsmiths, painting, carpentry, 
 yirinting, and saddlery. Girls— All sewing, 
 knitting, washing, ii-oning, cooking, basket- 
 work, house and fieldwork, kc. Yearly grant, 
 ^^100 (increased under Responsible Govern- 
 ment) ; recipient of grant. Right Rev. Franz 
 Abbot ; six European teachers ; no native or 
 other contributions in aid of school. Attend- 
 ance — Under twelve years of age, boys 51, girls 
 68 ; over twelve years of age, boys -14:, girls 17 ; 
 total, 180; average attendance, IfiS; number of 
 school-days in year, 20(1." After leaving the 
 schoolrooms we m junted the hill on which 
 stood the monastery proper. A priest in a white 
 robe and black scapula crossed the courtyard, 
 and introduced himself as Father Wilhelm. He 
 courteously apologised for not seeing us before 
 as it was his duty to act as chief guide to visi- 
 tors, but being very busy, he had asked Brother 
 Crispin to imdertake his duty. Father Wilhelm 
 
 was carrying a small brown teapot and plate 
 of bread. He said the tea had "drawn,'' and 
 we must be needing some supper. Our guide 
 was anxious for F. to do some mcwe sight- 
 seeing. — [F. adds: ""Viz., to view the dormi- 
 tory and dining-room of the friars, which are 
 exact counterparts in every particular of the 
 apartments allotted to the scholars, severe in 
 their simplicity, and yet amply adequate for the 
 maintenance of health and hardy comfort"] — 
 Meanwhile I waited in the visitors' refectory, 
 and had a chat with Father Wilhelm while he 
 set the table. The refectory was a charming 
 little room, and the beautifully-carved side- 
 board would have roused any house'nife's 
 envious admiration. The tojj part had glass 
 doors, so one had a good view of the 
 dainty china and shining glass. I admired 
 the deft way in which the good friar 
 set about preparing supper, while he cour- 
 teously answered all my eager question.*, keep- 
 ing a watchful eye on the small brown teapot. 
 Observing my notebook, he anxiously asked, 
 " You will speak kindly of Brother Crispin ? " 
 I gently assented in somewhat pained surprise 
 that he should think I could say aught but 
 kind, grateful words of the good brother who 
 had so unselfishly sought to promote oiir happi- 
 ness and comfort throughout the day. Father 
 Wilhelm explained that some former visitors 
 had criticised Brother Crispin's manner some- 
 what severely. "He has a good heart,'' he 
 added. " and it is not his fault that he is not so 
 polished; speak kindly of him." We have 
 none but kindly memories of good Brother 
 Crispin, who, in his unvarying courtesy, 
 thoughtful consideration for others, and 
 generosity in praising his fellow-workers, proved 
 himself to be a true Christian gentleman, finding 
 ever his highest and best self in utter and 
 complete unselfishness. Just then F. came in 
 quite ready for supper. The tea-table looked 
 most inviting with its spotless linen and dainty 
 china, kept specially for visitors. The tea was 
 brewed to perfection, so the friar's anxiety 
 was relieved ; we enjoyed the fresh eggs and 
 bananas, homemade bread and golden honey. 
 There were numljers of hives we were told, 
 and 600 lb. of honey were exported yearly to 
 Johannesburg and Pretoria, also large 
 quantities of tamarind wine, resembling cider. 
 Through the open door we watched the monks 
 fiUng into church, while Father Wilhelm 
 described their daily life. The novices, he said, 
 wore white gowns and brown aprons for two 
 years ; when they entered the choir they wore 
 black scapulas. The teachers and priests wore 
 white robes with black scapulas, and were 
 known as the "White Monks. " The monks in 
 black or dark-brown robes were lay brothers, 
 working as carpenters, labourers, &;c. 
 All wear sandals, but the monks who 
 travel abovit the country, doing the 
 business of the community, are allowed rough, 
 heavy boots and felt or coarse straw hats. 
 The harmonium sounded faintly, but it was
 
 23 
 
 only used for the benefit of the natives, we 
 were told, the Trappists not being allowed to 
 use any music or elaborate ritiial in their 
 services. The monks rise at two a.m. and go 
 into church. At three a.m. the brown-frocked 
 lay brothers go out to do kitchen work and to 
 study Kafir. The white monks remain till 
 nearly six, praying and singing psalms. At 
 4.30 the lay brothers return to mass, remaining 
 in churchy till 6.80, when they go to breakfast 
 and afterwards to the workshops. The white 
 monks finish their ofiice at 6.80, when they have 
 breakfast and study for the i^riesthood. They 
 are examined by the Bishop in theology, phil- 
 osophy, &c. Reading is allowed, i.e. devotional 
 books, no newspapers or fiction. The guides 
 who travel about, and who are exempt from 
 the vow of silence, are obliged to confine their 
 conversation strictly to business, and may bring- 
 no news of the outside world to their brethren. 
 Dinner is at twelve, and from 12.30 to 1.80 
 reading is allowed. Supper is at five p.m., one 
 of the brothers reading a devotional book 
 aloud from 5.80 to 6.10. Service at 6.80, thoiigh, 
 of course, the friars go to church seven times 
 
 daily to " say their office." A strange life, and I 
 was trying to realise it all, dreamily pictur- 
 ing the silent monks filing into the dim, cold 
 church in the dark hour before the dawn, while 
 the night mists lay in the low valleys, praying 
 and chanting jjsalms till sunrise gilded the dis- 
 tant hills — when Brother Crispin cheerily called 
 out that he was waiting in the wagonette to 
 drive us to the station in order to catch the 
 evening train to Diu'ban. As we drove 
 away, we met several friars returning from 
 field work. We turned for a last look at 
 Mariannhill Monastery ; the massive red build- 
 ings looked mellowed and softened in the even- 
 ing light, on the hillside cemetery a nun in 
 scarlet robes was slowly pacing to and fro 
 among the wooden crosses, at the monastery 
 door Father Wilhelm stood gravely smiling his 
 farewell, quiet peace and restfulness brooded 
 over all. It seemed indeed that to the good 
 brothers had come the gladness and peace of 
 the Golden Year. 
 
 For well I know 
 That unto him who works, and feels he works, 
 This same graud year is ever at tlie doors.
 
 5.-KOI ND ABOUT DURBAN- MOUNT EDGECUMBE 
 
 AND BELLAIR. 
 
 In the siinsliiuf, ))}• the .sliad}" verge of woods, 
 By tlie Hweet \vnter8 where the wild dove sips. — 
 
 Illchard Jeffries. 
 
 The shades of night were falling on the 
 Berea hills when w^e reached Diurban after our 
 visit to Pinetown. Not yet thoroughly familiar 
 with Natal ways and customs we sent for a cab, 
 and were rather siirprised w'hen two rickshas 
 pulled bv stalwart Kafirs api^eared on the plat- 
 form. However, we managed to stow our 
 luggage into one and ourselves into another, 
 and set off for the Alexandra Hotel, the 
 runners pulling us smoothly and swiftly along 
 the Point road through the gathering darkness. 
 Ti welcomed ''leetle Missy" with a beaming 
 countenance, and a long nighfs rest was very 
 refreshing after the jolting and shaking iip we 
 had enjoyed with Brother Crispin as charioteer 
 over the Trappist roads. 
 
 Days of delicious idling followed, loitering 
 along the Berea lanes, or resting under the 
 shady trees in the Park on the shores of the 
 Umbilo. One afternoon we sailed over to the 
 Bluff and climbed the steep road to the light- 
 house. We lingered long there, looking across 
 the lagoon to the fair city of Durban, and the 
 gxeen hills and gleaming river beyond. Belotv 
 us were some rocky caves worn by the waves 
 of the Indian Ocean. We found the steamy 
 heat of Durban very trying, and were quite 
 ready to agree with our friends who told us it 
 was wiser to visit Natal during the dry, bracing 
 winter months. It was delicious to escape from 
 the hot city, and sail across the lagoon 
 and catch the faint breeze from the hills. 
 The Mayor of Durban, wise man, has built a 
 charming cottage on a raft in the lagoon, it 
 has a railed-in flat roof and a long verandah — 
 fore and aft — and is within easy sailing 
 distance of the shore. F. revelled in these sails, 
 but was aggrieved at the lack of herons and 
 seagulls, and also pined for the society of 
 flamingoes and pelicans. Some people are never 
 satisfied. We were interested in watching the 
 dredging operations on the bar in connection 
 with the harbour works, but I must refrain 
 from making any remarks about them, because 
 F. sarcastically hints that it is easy to get out 
 of one's depth in Durban Harboux. 
 
 [Note by F. : " What strikes the casual 
 observer most with regard to the harbour works 
 at Natal, as compared with other ports along 
 the coast, is that the Natalians appear to 
 have got much more for their money 
 than East London, The Kowie, or 
 fort EUzabeth, that less has been 
 
 expended on experimental engineering, and 
 that a well-thought-out plan is being'thoroughly 
 and successfully carried out and adhered to. 
 There was a continuous dejith of from fifteen 
 to sixteen feet on the bar during our stay at 
 Diu'ban, and the inhabitants were naturally 
 very jubilant about it. The facilities for the 
 discharge of cargo, storing, and rapidity of 
 shipment are akeady admirable, and I under- 
 stand that the line of wharf is aboiit to be con- 
 siderably extended. I spent many hours watch- 
 ing the working of the magnificent hydraulic 
 cranes, and noting the celerity with whi.h 
 loading and discharge of ships and steamers 
 was carried out, and the care taken to prevent 
 damage to cases. Cape Town in these respects 
 may take a very back seat indeed, with all her 
 boasted dock accommodation.'"] One morn- 
 ing we explored the Botanic Gardens on the 
 Berea. We were rather disajipointed at the 
 poor show of flowers, but the gardens are very 
 tropical, and we were charmed with the 
 wealth of rare foliage and tree-ferns. Another 
 day we visited the Japanese Fair, where a 
 lively auction sale was going on. Huge tent 
 umbrellas hung from the ceiling ; there were 
 quantities of hideous jars, quaint curios, gaudy 
 fans, and vases and ornaments of every size, 
 shape, and hue. The room was filled with a 
 motley crowd — EuroiDean visitors and innu- 
 merable Natalians, Hindoos in flowing white 
 robes, coolie girls in gorgeous array, and the 
 usual crowd of grinning natives. Having made 
 a few purchases we were glad to escape from the 
 hot and odorous atmosphere. 
 
 Of course we could not leave Natal without 
 visiting one of the sugar plantations, so we 
 arranged to spend a day at Mount 
 Edgecumbe and go over the Central 
 Sugar Mills. Mount Edgecumbe is on 
 the Verulam line, w-hich passes through 
 the tropical coast scenery, so we found 
 the journey very lovely, and gazed writh wonder- 
 ing delight at the woodlands starred w^th 
 flowers and entangled with creepers. But our 
 day at the mills was most vmpleasant, the mud 
 was truly horrible, and no wonder, since forty 
 inches of rain had fallen in three months. We 
 stuck fast several times on our way from the 
 station, but managed to wade through a sea of 
 muddy trouble and reach the mills. When we 
 got inside I thought the heated treacly 
 atmosphere worse than the mud outside. The 
 roar and whirr of the machinery was most 
 deafening and confusing. I tried hard to 
 listen to the intelligent engineer's explanations 
 — and understood / Not a bit. However, thoi«
 
 ''25 
 
 who are interested in the process of refining 
 sugar, &c., will find full information in 
 that interesting and exciting little volume 
 called "The Child's Guide to Knowledge," it 
 deals with many problems, from " Pray, what 
 is bread made of .'" to the number of robes in 
 Queen Elizabeth's wardrobe, it unravels the 
 legends which have gathered round many in- 
 ventions and discoveries, describes also the for- 
 mation of pearls and diamonds, and the compo- 
 sition of mummies and sauerkraut. &c. The 
 antiquated but amusing little text- book is well 
 worth perusal on a dull winter day. The sugar- 
 cane was being Ijrought to the mill in huge 
 trams and carts. The cane takes from eighteen 
 months to two years to ripen, and in the inter- 
 vals of planting fresh cane, mealies are sown, 
 the refuse cane being used for fuel. The crush- 
 ing is done by a check roller, so that the amount 
 of sugar diie to a planter can be approxi- 
 mated. It reminded me of an old country 
 ctistom in fiotir mills. When the poorer coun- 
 try women bring corn to be gTound the mUIer 
 asks, " Will ye i^ay it or toll it .'" If the old 
 dame agrees to toll it the tolhng-dish is dipi^ed 
 into the flour, and the amount it contains is the 
 mUler's due as payment. AVeil, at Mount Edge- 
 cumbe, when the treacle tank is full after the 
 cane has been crushed, its density is taken, and 
 according to the tonnage of the cane the over- 
 seer can tell how much siigar per acre 
 (approximately to two or three pounds) is due 
 to the planter. 
 
 We were amused at the huge tanks of treacle. 
 The liquid boils from twelve to twenty hours, 
 and as it grows thicker of course the grain 
 gets bigger. The engineer dipped glass slides 
 into various boiling Liquids to explain the vary- 
 ing density and show us the grain in process of 
 formation. Three sorts of sugar are made at 
 the mills — white, yellow, and coarse 
 treacle sugar. We were surprised at being 
 tDld that the white sugar was really the purest, 
 as the crystallised yellow variety is chemically 
 treated. It was odd to watch the coarse liquid 
 being poiired into machines and after a few 
 moments' whirring come pouring out in the 
 form of yellow or white grained sugar. Next 
 season a manager from Demerara is coming out 
 to superintend the making of treacle and loaf 
 sugar. I soon got tii-ed of watching " the 
 wheels go round,"' and the crowds of Indian 
 workmen passing and repassing laden with 
 bags of sugar or buckets of treacle. The dull 
 roar of machinery and heavy atmosphere 
 were decidedly trying too, so we were relieved 
 when the engineer led the way upstairs to a 
 cooler atmosphere. I thought of several dear 
 wee maidens busy in a schoolroom far away in 
 Cape Town who would certainly have thought 
 they had stepped into a living fairy tale had 
 they been there to see the huge mounds of 
 yellow, white, and brown sugar, with a spade 
 and wheelbarrow ready to ';art it all away 1 
 
 After leaving the maiu bulling, we were 
 shown a treacle reservoir 30 feet deep. The 
 
 wee folks would have ceased to envy Uttle Alice 
 of the inquiring turn of mind had they been 
 privileged to peep into the depths of that 
 treacle well. For my own part, I was always 
 inclined to doubt the Dormouse's veracity and 
 to fear he had been visited with sweet ^dsions 
 during his frequent naps, when he romanced to 
 Alice about the three little sisters who lived in 
 a well. " What did they live on ? " said Alice, 
 who always took a great interest m questions 
 of eating and diinking. 
 
 " They lived on treacle," said the Dormouse, 
 after thinking a minute or two. 
 
 " They couldn't have done that you know," 
 Alice gently remarked ; '• they'd have been 
 ill." 
 
 " So they were," said the Dormouse ; 
 " very iU." 
 
 Alice's next query was, " Why did they live at 
 the bottom of a well ? " The Dormouse again 
 took a minute or two to think about it, and 
 then said, " It was a treacle well." 
 
 " There's no such thing 1 " Alice began, very 
 angrily, but was promptly hushed while the 
 Dormouse i)roceeded to state that the three 
 little sisters were learniug to draw, you know. 
 '■ What did they di-aw .' " said Alice. 
 "Treacle," said the Dormouse, without con- 
 sidering at all this time. Alice cautiously tried 
 again. " But I don't understand. Where did 
 they draw the treacle from .' ' The Hatter 
 interiaipted with crushing logic, " You can 
 draw water out of a water -well, so I should 
 think you could draw treacle out of a treacle- 
 well—eh, stupid ? " " But they were in the 
 well,'' Alice argued. "Of course they were," 
 said the Dormouse; "well in." And poor 
 piizzled little Alice gave up in despair I 
 
 Vividly did I recall a warm midsummer 
 afternoon in a distant schoolroom, and the 
 rows of eager little ones with wondering eyes 
 and parted lips, following AUce through the 
 fairy realms of fancy, while sewing and knitting 
 slipped from small hot hands, because the 
 needles were so sticky that they would not 
 push through! Afterwards several of the 
 little listeners confided to me that they really 
 thought the Dormouse and Mock Turtle had 
 been telling " pretend stories." It was a satis- 
 faction to know that at any rate the Dormouse's 
 memory could be cleared of the grave charge 
 that he told " pretend stories," and it was 
 qiiiic true that a treacle-well really did exist I 
 
 [This reminds F. of the punishment awarded 
 to an insolent employe who was at work in the 
 building where treacle is stored. Having 
 ventured to advance an opinion at variance 
 with some order that had been given him. and 
 to argue the point, summary justice was 
 dealt him, wliich took this form, that he was 
 promptly pitched headforemost into about five 
 feet of treacle, aud left there some time to 
 enjoy himself on the sweets of life.] 
 
 The engineer told us that the frequent 
 sudden thunderstorms were very destructive, 
 and a recent whirlwind had taken off the roofs
 
 26 
 
 original sugar mills 
 
 or tbirty-five years 
 
 estate consists of 
 
 are other adjoining 
 
 of shetls in four seconds. Three thousand 
 hands are employed on the sugar plantations 
 and in the mills. 2,800 being Indians. The 
 Kafirs, OUT guide added, M'ere very lazy, and 
 would not do quarter of tlie work easily accom- 
 pHshed by Indians. The central mill is com- 
 paratively new. ha\-ing lieen built only three 
 years ago, bi\t the 
 were started thirty 
 ago. The central 
 2,500 acres ; there 
 
 estates, on which new mills are to be started, 
 and, of course, the profits are enormous. "We 
 ■were interested in hearing that the present 
 millowner started as a workman on the estate. 
 "Work seems to be pretty constant all the year 
 round, planting, cutting, crushing, and boiling 
 going on with uniform regularity : the working 
 hours in the mill are rather long, as the overseers 
 start crushing at one a.m. and leave off at six 
 p.m. : the sugar is boiled at night, the electric 
 light being used. It was all very interesting 
 and I felt a wee bit ashamed of murmuring 
 ■' How thankful should we be," to F. when we 
 wearily wended oiu- way to the station. 
 
 [Note by F. : " No, we did not go direct to the 
 station. It is only fair to future visitors to 
 Mount Edgecumbe. to inform them that on cast- 
 ing my eye over the surrounding neighbour- 
 hood I had discovered a snug little hostelry 
 where we might obliterate all traces of what 
 we had gone through. For myself I confess 
 that satisfying as sugarcane and treacle are in 
 their way, I desired an amalgam with those 
 articles of diet, and needed some refreshment 
 as a restorative after the tax on my ingenuity 
 in the concoction and utterance of phrases ex- 
 pressive of my unqualified admiration at every- 
 thing we had seen.""] The engineer i^resented 
 us \nth some specimens of cane and a parcel 
 of sugar, and v,-e were grateful for his kindness 
 and attention throughout the daj-, though I 
 could not sacrifice truth for politeness by add- 
 ing the customary remark — " Such a m\i/ 
 pleasant day." Indeed, I felt iinwonted 
 sympathy for that smaU boy who 
 reluctantly went to a tea party, and at 
 the end of an afternoon"s misery bade farewell 
 to his hostess, and with tear-stained, disconso- 
 late face, conscientiously added that his mama 
 told him to say he had enjoyed himself very 
 much! 
 
 Having done our duty in learning all about 
 sugar (.') at Mount Edgecumbe, I suggested to 
 F. that a long idle flay at Bellair would be very 
 pleasant, and he (as usiuil) agreed. Bellair is a 
 lovely suburb a few miles from Durban, and it 
 was a bright, beautiful morning when we left 
 the hot, crowded city, and in half an hoiir 
 alighted at a quiet little wayside station. A 
 notice of church services hung inside the 
 station, and F. became quite excited when he 
 saw the Rector's signature, as he recog- 
 nised the name of sin old friend, formerly 
 Rector of S. Marks, Cape Town. We set oixt 
 to search for the Rectory, asking the way from 
 
 several passers-by, each of whom gave a 
 different direction, so we raced about up and 
 do-«Ti the hills and through the winding muddy 
 lanes, until at length we reached a newly-built 
 Rectory. It was a charming little house 
 perched on the svunmit of a hill, and command- 
 ing magnificent views of the surrounding 
 country. "The Rector has good taste,"' I 
 remarked, " but where is he .' " Alas ! he 
 had not yet moved in, and every door and 
 window was firmly closed. I had had enough 
 of the wanderings of Ulysses, and flatly declined 
 to contimie our meanderings until we had 
 rested, so we finally encamped in the back yard, 
 had our lunch, and rested on a packing-case. 
 
 Afterwards we succeeded in finding the 
 Rector"s lodgings; his landlady welcomed us wdth 
 a beaming countenance, and insisted on prepar- 
 ing breakfast immediately. 
 
 " Breakfast, lunch, breakfast again ; really it's 
 something like the March Hares tea-party," I 
 hinted to F., but we were hot and tired, so 
 found the tea and bananas very refreshing. 
 Meanwhile the landlady, a bright, energetic 
 Englishwoman not long out from the Home 
 country, chatted pleasantly. The Rector, she 
 
 said, had gone to a native wedding" at Um 
 
 something, and she discoxirsed about his 
 perfections, and the iniquities of the native 
 servants. The servant question is a constant 
 source of grievance with Xatal housekeeiJers, 
 and "cooks' stories "" abound. But, indeed, the 
 trials of the poor housewives seem many and 
 varied, European servants are seldom to be 
 obtained, and the constant inflow of imported 
 Indian labour is becoming a serious question ; 
 as to the Kafirs — well, we heard many con- 
 flicting opinions. In their neat holland or 
 dark-blue uniforms the Kafir boys look very 
 tidy and satisfactory servants, but mistresses 
 tell a different tale ; the constant complaint 
 being that a boy comes from a kraal utterly 
 untaught and clumsy, and after the mistress 
 has exercised constant care and patience, and 
 has trained the lad to be a useful servant, he 
 runs away and returns to his native home. 
 Then when Indian servants ai'e em- 
 ployed, they bring their wives and 
 families along with them. The mistress 
 of a Berea villa with small garden 
 attached, told me that two Indian families 
 were encamped on the "estate," and she waa 
 reduced to ordering her groceries three times a 
 week to prevent thieving. (The latter method 
 of housekeeping is comparatively easy, how- 
 ever, as there is a perfect network of tele- 
 phonic communication between the Berea 
 residences and business houses in the city.) So 
 after all we are comparatively well off at the 
 Cape. 
 
 It w^as getting rather late, so F. left a note 
 for the Rector, and we wandered down the 
 lanes again, meeting several of the native 
 wedding guests returning from the festivities. 
 BeUair is a most lovely locality ; the innumer- 
 able hills — some of them cultivated, others
 
 27 
 
 covered with waving- grass of varying shades of 
 green — seem just tumbled about in all direc- 
 tions. The lanes are deep and shadowy, and 
 tall, close jasmine hedges several feet high 
 form regular walls of dark green leaves starred 
 with white waxen blossoms. Bellair is evidently a 
 favourite suburban resort, for there are hundreds 
 of pretty cottages and villa reeidences in the 
 lanes and on the hillsides. The gardens that 
 morning were gay with roses and lilies, sun- 
 flowers and the great scarlet flowers of the 
 hibiscus rosea ; the bougainvillea was growing 
 in wonderful luxuriance over the cottage 
 verandahs and roofs. The cool lanes and 
 grassy terraces, with rustic seats placed in 
 shady corners, looked most in\ating, and num- 
 bers of children were playing on the grass or 
 swinging under the trees. 
 
 The lot had fallen unto us in a fair ground 
 that day, I remarked to F., as we wandered 
 down a winding path through the waving 
 grasR. Indeed, " the earth and common face 
 of nature spake to us rememberable things,' 
 as we revelled in the lovely sights and 
 sounds of that bright spring morning. 
 Cloud shadows swept across the valleys, the 
 warm drowsy wind murmured in the hollows 
 of the hills, the " lily -muffled hum of summer 
 bees " came to us from the cottage gardens, 
 and we heard the distant flow of the Umbilo 
 River in a cluster of trees below. Following 
 the sound, we soon reached a bend in the 
 stream, and sat down to rest on the banks. It 
 was indeed a fair sjiot. There was a thick, 
 dark forest opposite, and we could hear the 
 birds twittering in the leafy groves — rather an 
 unusual sound in Natal. Overhead was a break 
 of tender bhie in the dull, grey sky, the long 
 reeds swayed and bent as the river flowed on its 
 quiet way, white butterflies flitted by, birds 
 called from the distant woods, and we rested on 
 the shelving bank entirely hapi^y and 
 content. F. soon thought it tinie for 
 lunch number two, and I was so 
 hot and thirsty after our long walk, 
 that the river water seemed especially tempt- 
 ing,but F. cruelly remarked that the recent heavy 
 rains had doubtless brought down some minia- 
 ture crocodiles and alligators. Little Alice's 
 nursery rhyme which ivonliln't come right arose 
 irresistibly in one's memory : 
 
 How doth the little crocodile 
 
 Improve his shining tail, 
 And pour the waters of the Uni 
 
 On every golden scale. 
 
 [Note by F. : " E. is quite right. It was all 
 she pictures it to be, and I really felt a halo of 
 romance encircling me, hwt when you realise 
 that all day you have been carrying the lunch 
 basket you do feel at times that you should lose 
 no reasonable opportunity of getting it 
 lightened or at least getting the weight distri- 
 buted. Inequalities are distressing to me. N.B. — 
 Tourists should carefully abstain from partak- 
 ing of the waters of the Umbilo -syhen in flood. 
 
 These and other waters may suit the hardy con- 
 stitutions of the wild doves who sip thecn, as 
 Jefferies avers ; but I take leave to doubt it."] 
 
 The afternoon soon slipped by, and we 
 reluctantly wended our way back to the station. 
 The clear evening light brought out fresh 
 beauties of form and hue in the surrounding 
 scenery, and we were able to get a good view 
 of most of the kraals and scattered huts on the 
 distant hills. 
 
 That bright day at Bellair was, alas, the last of 
 oiir expeditions, for days of poiuing rain 
 alternating with intense steamy heat set in, 
 and we dared not venture further than for a 
 ramble on the Berea or a sail on the lagoon. 
 We whiled away a good deal of time in the 
 library, but in literary matters Natal must take 
 a very back seat indeed compared with Cajie 
 Town. Indeed in many ways the libraries in 
 Durban and Maritzburg are inferior to those 
 found in many up-country villages in Cape 
 Colony. For instance, in Durban library an 
 alcove is set apart for ladies ; it is furnished 
 with a table, a few chairs, and a filter, the 
 sole Literary refreshment provided consisting 
 of copies of the " Queen " and other fashion 
 papers. No magazines or papers of any interest 
 could be obtained at the railway bookstalls ; 
 only shilling shockers and comic papers. Even 
 in i^rivate houses we noticed the lack of 
 interesting books and magazines. Few topics 
 of outside interest were discussed. We tried 
 hard but unsuccessfully to get copies of the 
 " Cape Times," and were in utter ignorance 
 (except through the medium of private letters) 
 as to how matters were progressing in the 
 " Old Colony " during our absence. There 
 were no notices of lectures, debating- societies, 
 (fcc, in the Natal papers; as a rvtle, only topics 
 of merely local interest were touched iipon, 
 and we mvich feared that Dr. Kolbe would 
 get but a scanty audience at an extension 
 lecture ! 
 
 We shall not readily forget the merciless heat 
 we endured the day we left Durban, and the 
 tug journey from the wharf, over the l)ar, to 
 the Scot seemed cruelly and needlessly long. 
 It was late in the afternoon when the .Scot 
 steamed away, and we took a last glimpse at 
 the Blufl" lighthouse and the grean hills en- 
 circling the fair city of Durban. A lovely 
 evening followed the glowing sunset, and we 
 sat late on deck enjoying the cool night air as 
 we passed along the coast. — [F.'s thoughts .- " As 
 I lay back in my deck-chair, and in mind 
 bade farewell to lovely Natal, I communed 
 with myself as to what my notes shovild be in 
 the • Comments on Natal ' which E. and I 
 had arranged were to be a combined effort, 
 how lightly I might touch on faults and 
 failings in institutions or inhabitants without 
 wounding sensibilities, how cordially and warmly 
 I could speak of the kindness shown to us, 
 entii'e strangers as we were, and how language 
 would fail even E. (and this is her deimrtment 
 entirely) in fitly portraying the varied
 
 28 
 
 beauties of the country as they were 
 revealed to us. If we have suc- 
 ceeded in iuteref^ting our readers and 
 
 afFordiiij^' them any hints of vahie should they 
 desire to si)cnd a similar enjoyable holiday to 
 ours, we shall be amply recompensed.'"] 
 
 Overhead was a clear starlit sky, and we 
 looked out across the heaving- waves to the 
 
 distant shadowy hills. Homeward bound at 
 last, for every moment was Ijringing us nearer 
 to Taljle Mountain, and it was with the old 
 familiar words, littered so often in jest, that 
 we bade farewell to Natal, as I turned to l*". 
 and he answered my unspoken thoug-ht, " How 
 thankful should we be."
 
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