:4
 
 DEN 

 
 iOrOGRAPHICAL 
 
 STATISTICAL DESCRIPTION 
 
 COUNTY OF DEVON; 
 
 Containing an Account of its 
 
 Situation, 
 
 Mines. 
 
 Acriculture, 
 
 Extent, 
 
 Minerals, 
 
 Fairs, 
 
 Towns, 
 
 Fisheries, 
 
 Markets, 
 
 Roads, 
 
 Manufactures, 
 
 Curiosities, 
 
 Rivers, 
 
 Trade, 
 
 Antiquities. 
 
 Lakes, 
 
 Commerce, 
 
 I Natural History, 
 
 Civil and Ecclesiastical Jurisdictions, &c. 
 
 To which is prefixed, 
 A COPIOUS TRAVELLING GUIDE; 
 
 xhibiting the Direct and Principal Cross Roads, Inns, and Dis- 
 tances of Stages, and Noblemen's and Gentlemen's Seats ; 
 
 WHICH lORM 
 
 A COMPLETE COUNTY ITINEllARY: 
 
 WITH 
 
 A LIST OF THE FAIRS, 
 AND AN INDEX TABLE, 
 
 'hewing^, at one View, the Distances of all the Towns from London, 
 and of Towns from each other. 
 
 BY G. A. COOKE, ESQ. 
 
 Illustrated rvith a Map of the Count tj. 
 THIRD EDITION. 
 
 JLonUou: 
 
 inted, by Assignment from the Executors of the late C. Cooke, 
 
 FOR 
 
 SRW'OOD, NEELY, AND JONES, PATERNOSTER-ROW; 
 AND SOLD BY ALL BOOKSELLERS.
 
 stack 
 
 Annex 
 
 B. M'Millan. l-rhiter, 
 Eow-Stieet, Covent-tTarrien.
 
 AN INDEX TABLE 
 
 OF THE DISTANCES FROM TOWN TO TOWN, 
 
 3itt tlje Countg of Deijom 
 
 To find the Distance from Axminster to Totness, see Axminster on 
 the top and Totness on the side ; carry your sight to the column 
 \There both meet, wliich gives the Distance. 
 
 ; fc iS !2 S "iS !-5 r .i3. 
 
 
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 lli|i||isiilii||i||5i||i
 
 (4) 
 
 A TABLE 
 
 PRINCIPAL TOWNS IN THE COUNTY; 
 
 Thtir Distance from London, Markets, Number of Hun 
 and Inhabitants, with the Time of the Arrival and I 
 p'arture qf the Post. 
 
 Towns. 
 
 1 
 
 1 
 
 09 
 
 II 
 
 
 < 
 
 I 
 
 Ashburtoa 
 
 Asminster 
 
 191 
 146 
 167 
 195 
 204 
 189 
 170 
 199 
 181 
 194 
 164 
 180 
 153 
 203 
 173 
 219 
 200 
 213 
 156 
 205 
 206 
 207 
 183 
 187 
 195 
 159 
 215 
 213 
 182 
 205 
 187 
 167 
 191 
 195 
 
 T. S. 
 
 Sat. 
 
 Sat. 
 Frid. 
 Tues. 
 Thur. 
 Thur. 
 
 Sat. 
 
 Sat. 
 Thur. 
 
 Sat. 
 
 Sat. 
 
 Thur. 
 
 Frid. 
 
 T. W. S. 
 
 Sat. 
 Frid. 
 
 Sst. 
 
 Sat. 
 
 Sat. 
 
 Sat. 
 Thur. 
 
 Sat. 
 Wed. 
 
 Sat. 
 Tues. 
 M.T. 
 
 Sat. 
 
 Sat. 
 
 Sat. 
 
 Sat. 
 Tues. 
 
 Sat. 
 
 Sat. 
 
 396 
 492 
 294 
 774 
 683 
 162 
 285 
 235 
 384 
 303 
 695 
 
 1149 
 399 
 564 
 
 3256 
 261 
 286 
 199 
 681 
 489 
 158 
 367 
 386 
 40 
 326 
 693 
 
 5248 
 308 
 675 
 680 
 263 
 
 1323 
 445 
 346 
 
 3403 
 2742 
 1633 
 5079 
 40.53 
 672 
 1511 
 1401 
 2053 
 1506 
 3410 
 5515 
 1945 
 4485 
 
 23479 
 1968 
 1499 
 1449 
 3296 
 2622 
 1430 
 2194 
 1932 
 278 
 2023 
 3522 
 
 61212 
 2044 
 3314 
 5483 
 1466 
 8631 
 2538 
 3128 
 
 H. M. 
 
 4. 20 f. 
 
 5. 30. 
 
 9. f. 
 
 11. f. 
 
 3. f. 
 
 8. 35. a. 
 
 3. f. 
 
 7. a. 
 
 9. f. 
 
 8. 50. a. 
 
 7. f. 
 
 6. I5.a. 
 8.f. 
 
 10. f. 
 
 8. f 
 
 4. 10 f. 
 
 8. f 
 
 7. 30. f. 
 7. f. 
 
 12. noon. 
 7. f. 
 
 7. f. 
 
 12. noon. 
 6. f. 
 
 H. A 
 
 9. 45 
 8. 30 
 
 5. a. 
 
 4. a. 
 
 11. 50 
 
 5. f. 
 11. a. 
 
 7. f. 
 
 6. a. 
 5. f. 
 
 7. a. 
 
 5. 15 
 11. a. 
 
 4. a. 
 
 5. a. 
 
 4. .1 
 
 6. a. 
 
 6. 30 
 
 7. a. 
 
 5. 30 
 
 8. a 
 
 6. 30 
 
 2. 30 
 
 3. a. 
 
 Barnstable 
 
 Bideford 
 
 Row 
 
 Bradnicb 
 
 Brent 
 
 Chudleigh 
 
 Chumle^gh 
 
 Collumpton 
 
 Crediton 
 
 Colyton 
 
 Dartmouth 
 
 Exeter 
 
 Hartland 
 
 HatherJeigh 
 
 Holsworthy 
 
 Honiton 
 
 Ilfracomb 
 
 Kingsbridge 
 
 Modbury 
 
 Moreton Hampstead 
 Newton St. Petraes.. 
 
 Oakhampton 
 
 Ottery 
 
 Plymouth 
 
 
 South Molton 
 
 Tavistock 
 
 Teignmouth 
 
 Tiverton 
 
 Torrington 
 
 Totness 
 
 The rate of postage for a single letter, varies from 9d, to 1 
 tliroughout the county.
 
 ( 5 ) 
 
 .2 
 
 
 G 
 
 
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 1 
 
 .5 
 
 "3 fl 
 
 |1 
 
 1 
 
 |.:6 .:5c.^f J-S Spin- 
 
 
 2 
 
 
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 4i 
 
 eg 
 
 f- .2 
 
 
 
 
 
 ^5 
 
 
 
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 s 1 
 
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 c 
 
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 c"? 
 
 i 
 
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 ^ O ** o 1- ?? «- 
 
 
 
 PO r^ -7 F^ t>. n 
 
 
 
 « fX M fO ^ -- -^ 
 
 "o^ 
 
 
 
 
 1 
 
 .= c o 2 
 
 5 ^ o^8« 
 
 III 
 
 .2-1 a 
 
 
 
 c- Co 
 
 
 5 £ •B'i§'3 
 
 
 
 
 fc. s 
 
 
 
 5^"S 
 
 
 
 t-nr 4> 
 
 
 
 Js an J 
 
 
 
 <«< n 
 
 
 ^ «3 
 
 3 J« 
 
 »>t 
 
 1 f 
 
 ir? 
 
 1 
 
 :■ .H 
 
 ■til 
 
 
 1 =-ii 
 
 ■Ml 
 
 
 S "S "2 a 
 
 «""— 
 
 
 s 1 « w 
 
 
 
 ><i: 
 
 B3
 
 AN ITINERARY 
 
 OF ALL THE 
 
 DIRECT AND PRINCIPAL CROSS ROAD) 
 
 IN 
 
 DEVONSHIRE: 
 
 IN WHICH ARE INCLUDED 
 
 THE STAGES, INNS, AND GENTLEMEN'S SEATS 
 
 N. B. The first Column contains the Names of Places 
 passed through; the figures that follow ^ shew the Distancei 
 from Place to Place, Town to Town, and Stages ; and w 
 the last Column are the Names of Gentlemeri^s Seats anc 
 Inns. The right and left of the Roads are distinguishea 
 by the letters R. and L. 
 
 LONDON TO EXETER. 
 
 From Hyde-park- 
 corner, through 
 Sloane-street, to 
 
 Knightsbridge • • 
 0}i L. a T. R. to 
 
 Tutney. 
 
 Kensington . • • • 
 
 Hammersmith • • 
 Turnham-green 
 
 A little beyond 
 the six M. S., a 
 T.R. to Richmond. 
 
 Brentford •• 
 
 Cross the Grand 
 
 The Palace of H. R. H. the 
 
 Duke of Sussex, and half 
 a mile further, Holland- 
 house, Lord Holland, R. 
 
 Braiidenburg-house, L. 
 
 At Chiswick, see Chiswick- 
 liouse, Duke of Devon- 
 shii^e; Sutton-court, H. 
 Cavendish, esq. ; and 
 Grove-house, Rev. B, 
 Lozvth, L. i 
 
 Just before Brentford, on L. 
 see Kcw-palace, and « Cha-
 
 ITIN 
 
 c. 'Canal f just 
 •re the eight M. 
 at T. H. to 
 ckenham. 
 
 albury-greeii 
 
 UNSLOW • • ■ 
 
 On L. the Mail 
 ch R. to Poole 
 I Exetevy over 
 mnslozv - heath, 
 tc enclosed, to 
 anford-bridge 
 
 pson-green 
 )ngford • • • • 
 Cross the Coin, 
 
 ERARY, 8iC. "^ 
 
 teau built hy his late Ma- 
 jesty. At Brentford, Bos- 
 ton-house, J. Clitherroe, 
 esq.n.; and at the eight 
 M. S. see Sion-house, Duke 
 of Northumberlamdf L. ; 
 and just beyond, Sion-hill, 
 unoccupied, R.; a, little 
 farther, Wyke-liouse, E. 
 'Ellice, esq. ; and Osterley- 
 park, Earl of Jersey, R. 
 
 Inn ; The Pigeons. 
 
 Spring-grove, late Sir Jos. 
 Banks, hart. R.; and 
 Worton-house, Mrs. Scott, 
 
 QilnnJ: The George, King'i 
 Head, Red Lion, Rose 
 and Crown. 
 
 olnbrook, Bucks 
 One mile and a 
 ilf farther, a T. 
 '. to Windsor, b^ 
 Mchet, on L. 
 
 131 
 15i 
 
 17i 
 
 Cranford-park, Countess of 
 Jersey, R.— Inns: Berk- 
 ley Arms, White Hart, 
 
 Near at Stanwell, Stanwell- 
 house. Sir E. B. Stanhope, 
 hart. ; Stanwell^pluce, Sir 
 J. Gibbons, hart.; and 
 Stanwellrcottage, Capt. 
 Drury, L. 
 
 Richings-lodge, Right Hon. 
 John Sullivan, R.; 1| miks 
 beyond Colnbrook, see Vit- 
 ton-park, Lord Montague, 
 L. At 19th M. S. Lang- 
 ley-park, Sir R. B. Har- 
 vey, hart. ; near this is 
 Langley-hall, G. B. Long,
 
 ITINERARY OF THC 
 
 Slough 
 
 AT.R.toEton 
 thence across the 
 Thames to Wind- 
 sor. 
 
 Salt-hill .... 
 
 One mile and 
 three quartersfar- 
 ther on R. a T.K 
 to Great Marlow, 
 through Burnham. 
 Maidenhead- 
 bridge 
 
 Cross the Thames, 
 R. 
 
 Maidenhead, 
 Berks 
 
 A quarter of a 
 mile farther on R. 
 a T. R. to Great 
 Marlow, Bucks 
 across the Thaynes 
 hy a ferry 
 Maidenhead- 
 thicket 
 
 On R. a T.R 
 to Oxford, by Hen- 
 ley. 
 
 Si 
 
 201 
 
 211 
 
 251 
 
 26 
 
 28 
 
 esq., R. — Inns : George, 
 White Hart. 
 
 See Windsor-castle, His Ma- 
 jesty, and Eton-college, 
 L. Near Slough is Burn- 
 hayji-gro'ce, Sir W. John- 
 son, bart. L. — Inn : The 
 Crown. 
 
 Stoke-park, J. Fenn, esq. R. 
 Beyond this is Stoke-farm, 
 Lord Sefton; and Britt- 
 well-house, George Irby, 
 esq. R. — Inns : Castle, 
 Windmill. 
 
 At Taplow^ TaplozD-house, 
 Pascoe Grenfell, esq.; 
 Berry-hill, Hon. F. J. 
 Needham ; Taplow-hill, 
 Miss Chapman ; Taplozv- 
 lodge, late P. C. Bruce, 
 esq. 11. — Inn: King'sArms, 
 
 Isaac Pocock, esq. ; the 
 Cottage, — Atkinson,esq. ; 
 Lady-place, W. Trough- 
 ton, esq. R.; Ives^-place, 
 T. Wilson, esq. L. — Inn: 
 Sun. 
 
 Stubbings, unoccupied ; at a 
 distance, see Hull-place, 
 Sir Gilbert East, bart., 
 and Bishatn-abbey, George 
 Vansittart, esq. R. On L. 
 see the spire of Shottes- 
 brook-church, near zchich 
 is Shottcsbrook-park, the 
 seat of A. Vansittart, esq.
 
 ROADS IN DEVONSHIPE, 
 
 Ilcire- halch 
 
 Twvford 
 
 ReadiiNG 
 
 Cross the Kennct 
 R. On R. a T. R. 
 to Henley and 
 Wallingford, and 
 on h. to Basing- 
 stoke. 
 Calcot-green • • • • 
 
 21 
 
 Theal 
 
 32 
 
 34 
 
 39 
 
 4U 
 
 One', mile before y see Bear- 
 place, Sir Morris Ximenes ; 
 and beyond, Culham-court, 
 Hon. F. West, R. ; near 
 Hare-hatch on L. see 
 Scarlets, J. L. Perrott, 
 esq. 
 
 At a distance on R. see Skip- 
 lake, Rev. Mr. Horsham ; 
 Holm-wood, Lord Mark 
 Ker, and Bell-hatch, J. 
 Huscombe, esq. ; before 
 Tzcyford, on a hill on lu. 
 see Ruscmnbe-house, Lady 
 Sherhurn ; at 27 th M.S. 
 on L. see Wood ley-lodge, 
 J. Wheble, esq. ; Early- 
 couvt, Mrs. Tozcnsend ; 
 and Early-place, J. Os- 
 borne, esq. Near the 38th 
 M. S. White Knights, 
 Duke of Marlborough, L. 
 
 Through the town on a hill 
 on L. see Coley-park, JB. 
 Monck, esq. ; a little be- 
 yond Reading on R. is 
 Prospect-hill, J. E. Lie- 
 benrood,esq. — Inns: Bear, 
 Crown, George. 
 
 Calcot-hoase, J, Blagrave, 
 esq., and Ttlehurst-place, 
 belonging to the same gen- 
 tleman. 
 
 Just before, at two miles 
 distance on L. see Hill- 
 house, Sir C, S. Hunter, 
 burt. ; at Theal, Engle- 
 field- house, Mrs. Benyon, 
 R. ; beyond Brade^eld- 
 hall, Rev. John Connop^
 
 10 
 
 ITINERARY OF THE 
 
 Puntifield 
 
 0?i R. a T. R 
 
 to Wallmgford. 
 Three jniles fm- 
 ther on L.' to 
 Kingsckre andBa 
 slngstoke. 
 Woolhampton • < 
 
 Thatcham • . . . . 
 Speenhain Land 
 
 On R. a T. R. 
 to Oxford. 
 Speen-hill • • . • 
 
 Speen 
 
 Halfway-house 
 
 Cross the Ken- 
 net j R. 
 
 HUNGERFORD 
 
 On R. a 1\ R. 
 
 n 
 
 H 
 
 15 
 
 49i 
 
 J7 
 
 60 
 
 64i 
 
 and one mile farther y Ben- 
 ham-house, C. H. Rich, 
 esq. R. — Inn: The Falcon. 
 
 Woolhampton-house, Earl of 
 Falmouth; one mile he- 
 yond which, Midgham- 
 house, W. Poyntz, esq. R. ; 
 near Woolhajnpton on L. 
 see Aldermaston-house, W. 
 Congreve, esq. ; and Was- 
 ting-house, W. Mount, esq. 
 
 [nn : The Angel. 
 
 Shaw-house, Sir Joseph An- 
 drews, bart. R. 
 
 Inns: The George, Pelican. 
 
 H. Dixon, esq. R. ; Don- 
 nington-cottage, G. Monk- 
 laiid, esq. L. 
 
 Inn: The Castle. 
 
 See the ruins of Donning- 
 ton-castle, and Donning- 
 t on- castle-house, F. S. 
 Stead, esq. ; onemilebeyond 
 Speen, is Benh am-p lace, A. 
 Bacon, esq. L. ; further on 
 L. Hampstead-lodge, Earl 
 of Craven. 
 
 At 61\ miles, Barton-courf, 
 C, Dundas, esq. L. 
 
 Be/bre, see Hungerford- 
 parky J. Willis, esq. L. ;
 
 ROADS 
 
 iu O.v/urd ; cross] 
 tfieKennet^W. ayid 
 Avon Canal. 
 
 Frox field, Wilts. 
 
 IN DEVONSUIRE. 
 
 11 
 
 Cross Ford • • • . 
 0/i L. a T. n. to 
 Great Bedwin. 
 Savernakc Forest 
 
 MAnLUOROUGII 
 
 On U. a T. R. to 
 
 Wntton Basset and 
 Swindon on L. to 
 Andoxer. 
 Fifield 
 
 Overton 
 
 West Kennet • • 
 Silbury-hill . • . . 
 
 Beckampton Inn 
 Cherhill 
 
 H 
 
 H 
 
 2>\ 
 
 &1\ 
 
 69 
 
 7i| 
 
 74\ 
 
 77 
 
 78^ 
 
 80| 
 8U 
 
 at Hungerjbrd, Chilton- 
 lodge, J. Fearce, esg. ; 
 Chilton - house, Fulzcar 
 Craveri, esq. R. ; beyond 
 Hungerford, Fosbury- 
 house, S. Bevan, esq. L. 
 
 Inn : The Black Bear. 
 
 Half a mile before, is Little- 
 cot-park f Lieut. Gen.Pop' 
 ham, R. At seventy inileSy 
 Ramsbury Manor, Sir F. 
 Burdctt, bart. R, 
 
 The avenue through the Fo- 
 rest to Tottenham-parky 
 Maiquis ofAylesbury, R. 
 
 Inns: 'The Castle^ Marlbo- 
 rough Arms. 
 
 Lockeridge-housCj Rev. — 
 Watkins, L. an ancieyit 
 cromlech, called the De- 
 vil's Den, R. 
 
 Half a mile beyond Kennet- 
 hall, R. Mathews, esq. 
 
 Remains of a stupendous Ro- 
 man Barrow, R. 
 
 Before Cherhill on L. see 
 Bratton-castle hill, on the 
 summit of zchich stands 
 Oldbury Camp ; at Cher- 
 hill is Compton Basset 
 house, — Wylde, esq. R.
 
 J2 
 
 ITJNERAin' OF THI 
 
 Calxe 
 
 On. L. a T.R 
 
 to Devizes, on R 
 to Wot ton Basset. 
 Cross a branch of 
 the Wilts and 
 Berks Canal. 
 
 Derry - hill, the 
 White Swan 
 On L. a T.R. to 
 Lcycock and De- 
 vizes. Cross the 
 Wilts and Berks 
 Canal. 
 Chippenham 
 
 Cross the Avon, 
 R.; onR.a T.R. 
 to Wot ton Basset 
 and Malmesbury ; 
 1 mile farther on 
 L.aT.R.toMelk- 
 sham. 
 
 Pickwick 
 
 OnL. a T.R. to 
 Devizes, and half 
 a mile farther to 
 Bradford. 
 
 Box 
 
 Bathford, Somer- 
 set 
 
 Quarter of a 
 mile farther, a 
 T. R, to London, 
 
 n 
 
 87 
 
 91 
 
 93i 
 
 1 ?Nile before Calnc, sec 
 Blackland's, late John 
 Merrewether, esq. L. ; at 
 Calne, the Castle-house, 
 Mrs. Bendrj/ ; and be- 
 yond Boic-wood, Marquis 
 of Lansdozvn, and Spy- 
 park, Rev. Dr. Starkey; 
 near ichich is Bouden- 
 park, Mrs. Dickenson, 
 and 1 7nile farther, the 
 Abbey, J. R. Grosett, esq. 
 L. — Inns : The Catherine 
 Wheel, White Hart. 
 
 Studley-hill, J. B. Angell, 
 esq. Li. 
 
 Ivey-house, R. Humphrys, 
 esq. L., ayid 2 ?niles dis- 
 tant, Lackham-house,Col. 
 Tnffnell, and Notton- 
 house, T. N. PoTfilett, esq. 
 
 97-1 
 
 100| 
 103 
 
 Inns: 
 Hart. 
 
 An^el, White 
 
 Haifa mile before Pickwick, 
 Corsh am-house, Pa u I Me* 
 thuen, esq.h., and Hurt- 
 ham-park, H. Hull Jay, 
 esq. R.; at Pickwick,Pick- 
 zcick-lodge, unoccupied,R. 
 
 One mile before Bathjord- 
 iurnpike, Shockerwick, 
 J. Wiltshire, esq. R.
 
 ROADS IN DLVONSIIIEE. 
 
 15 
 
 through Devizes 
 and to Bradford. 
 Bath Easton • • • • 
 
 1 mile farther, a 
 T. R, to Glouces- 
 ter and Chelten- 
 ham. 
 Bath 
 
 One mile and 
 three quarters far- 
 ther o?z R. a T. R 
 to Keynsham; oil 
 L. to Frome. 
 
 Cross theSomer 
 set coal canal. 
 Dunkerton 
 
 Radstoke 
 
 On L. a T. R. to 
 
 Frome; ^| mile 
 
 farther to Wells. 
 
 Stratton-on-the- 
 Fosse 
 
 Oakhill 
 
 Half a mile far- 
 ther on the Mendip 
 hills, on R. a T. R. 
 to Welts, on L. to 
 Frome. 
 Shepton Mallet 
 
 On R. a T. R. to 
 Wells and to Glas- 
 tonbitrr/j on L. to 
 Frome. 
 
 3i 
 
 H 
 
 H 
 
 104 
 
 106 
 
 110 
 
 1131 
 
 117i 
 
 120i 
 
 122i 
 
 Beyond is Bailbrook-house. 
 
 Prior-park, J. Thomas, esq. 
 L. ; andfarthcr, Midford- 
 castle, Charles Conolli/, 
 esq. — Inns : Greyhound, 
 Lamb, White Hart, White 
 Lion, York Hotel. 
 
 Before, see Combe Hay, Mrs. 
 Leigh, L. — Inn : Szcan. 
 
 1 ??iile before on I. Wood- 
 harrow- house, — Purr ell, 
 esq. ; on R. Camerton- 
 park, Mrs. Jarrett. 
 
 1 rnile before on L. Strutton" 
 house, C. G. Gray, esq.; 
 at Stratton, Mount Plea- 
 sant, Gordon G ray, esq. ; 
 fmd 3 miles distant, Stone 
 Easton-park, Sir J. C. 
 Hippesley, bart. R. 
 
 [nns : Bell, George.
 
 14 
 
 ITINEllARY OF THE 
 
 Cannard's Grave 
 Inn 
 
 Oa L. a T. R. t<^ 
 Bruton and tc 
 Castle Cory. 
 Pvlle-street • • • • 
 
 Wraxall • 
 Fourfoot 
 
 West Lydford 
 
 Cross the Bruce, 
 R.; half a mile far- 
 ther, at Cross Keys 
 Inn a T. R. on L. 
 to Castle Cary; on 
 R. toSomerton and 
 Bridgewater. 
 IlchesteR' . . . 
 
 On R. a T. R. to 
 SheptonMullet ; on 
 L. to Yeovil; half 
 a mile before, Pe- 
 therton-bridge, on 
 R. toSomerton, on 
 L. to Crewkerne. 
 PethertoR-bridge 
 
 Cross the Far- 
 ret, R. ; on L. a 
 T.R.toPeiherton. 
 Sevington 
 
 White Lackington 
 
 Ilminster • • • • 
 
 Onn.aT.R. to 
 Longport, on L. to 
 Chard; about 1 
 
 li 
 
 H 
 
 USi 
 
 125f 
 
 127| 
 V29{ 
 
 130| 
 
 137i 
 
 142i 
 
 145| 
 
 147| 
 149| 
 
 Pylle-house, unoccupied; and 
 beyond, East Pennard' 
 park, G.M. Berkley Na- 
 pier, esq. R. 
 
 Lydford Rectory, Rev. Dr, 
 
 Colston, R. 
 3 miles distant on R. King*s 
 
 Weston-house, William 
 
 Dickenson, esq. 
 
 4 miles beyond, at Montu- 
 cute, Mojitacute-house, T, 
 Phillips, esq, L. — Inn: 
 The Bell. 
 
 Hinton St. George, Earl 
 Powlett, L. 
 
 Beyond Dillington - house, 
 Win. Hanning, esq. 
 
 About 1| miles beyond, at 
 Horton, Jordan^ s-house, 
 W. Speke, esq. R. — Inns : 
 George, and Swan,
 
 ROADS IN DEVONSHIRE. 
 
 15 
 
 miU farther on R. 
 to Taunton, on L. 
 to Chard. 
 Buckland St. Mar)- 
 
 Cross the Haven, 
 R. and enter De- 
 von. 
 Heathfield Arms 
 
 One mile and a 
 half farther on R 
 a T. R. to Taun- 
 ton; farther on L. 
 to Axminster ; 2 
 miles farther on R, 
 to Taunton^ thro 
 Ottery. 
 
 HONITON 
 
 On L. a T. R. to 
 Chard, to Taunton, 
 and to Collumpton; 
 quarter of a mile 
 beyond Honiton on 
 L. a T. R. to Sid- 
 mouth. 
 
 Weston 
 
 Fenny-bridires • 
 
 On L. a T. R, to 
 Ottery St. Alary 
 Cross the Otter, R. 
 about 4 'miles be- 
 yond on L. a T. R. 
 to Ottery St. Mary 
 Rockbere 
 
 1| 
 
 155^ 
 
 157 
 
 16'H 
 
 165i 
 
 167| 
 
 174, 
 
 Northcote-house, Rev. A, 
 Coney ; Holy shut- cot, 
 D. Garctt, esq.; Ashfield- 
 house, Miss Head; Eg- 
 land-house. Miss Elliot ; 
 Abbots, Col. Thatcher, and 
 Shaugh-house, T. Charles, 
 esq. R. — Inns: Dolphin, 
 Golden Lion. 
 
 Weston-cottage, S. Stevens, 
 esq. R.; 1 mile beyond 
 Weston, Oakfield- house, 
 R. H. Symmonds, esq.; 
 and Deer-park, Major 
 Shouldham, R. 
 
 Fe7init07i-court,G.B.North' 
 cote, esq. ; beyond zchich 
 is Corscomhe-house, H. 
 Wright, esq. R. 
 
 Beyond Blue Hayes, unoc- 
 cupied.
 
 16 
 
 Iloniton's Clyst 
 
 Cross the Clyst, 
 R.; 2miles fa}'tlier 
 on L. a T. R. to 
 E.rmouth. 
 
 Heavitree <.3 
 
 Exeter jl| 
 
 ITINERARY t)F TIIE 
 
 2 11761 
 
 1791 
 1801 
 
 Poltmcre,$i)- C. W. Bamp' 
 ft/lde, hurt. 
 
 [nns: New London I?m, Old 
 London Inn. 
 
 LAUNCESTON TO AXMINSTER, 
 
 THROUGH OAKHAMPTON, EXETER, AND HONITON. 
 
 Laukceston to 
 
 Eiiter Devon- 
 shire. 
 Cadron 
 
 L3'fton 
 
 Bridestovv 
 
 On R. a T. R 
 
 to Flymouih. 
 
 Cross the Oak- 
 inent river. 
 Oakhampton • • 
 
 On L. a T. R 
 to Hatherleigh^ 
 and a little be- 
 yond^ a T. R. to 
 Bow. 
 Stickle Path • • 
 
 Cross the Tato 
 river. 
 South Zeal 
 Merrvmect • • 
 
 21 
 
 n 
 
 H 
 
 121 
 
 18^ 
 
 22 
 
 mi 
 
 Werrington-housej Duke of 
 Northumberland y L. 
 
 Endsley-cottage, Duke of 
 Bedford, L. 
 
 Smallcomb, — Parsons, esq. 
 L. 
 
 Whilety, Mrs. Wollacombe, 
 R. 
 
 Haine, D. Harris, esq. L.; 
 Castle-park, W. A. Har- 
 ris, esq. L. 
 
 Leazvood, C. P. Hamlyn, esq. 
 R. 
 
 runs: White Hart, White 
 
 Horse. 
 Oaklands, A. Saville, esq. L.
 
 nOADS IN DEVONSHIRE. 
 
 17 
 
 Crockern Well 
 Cheriton Cross 
 
 Tap-house • ■ 
 
 Lilly-bridge 
 
 Adderwater 
 
 Exeter 
 
 Heavitree • • • • 
 On R. a T. R. 
 
 to Exmouth. 
 
 Honiton's Clyst 
 
 Rockbere •••• 
 Cross the Otter 
 
 river. 
 
 On R. a T.R 
 
 to Otter 1/ St. Mary 
 
 Fenny Bridges • • 
 
 Otter river. 
 
 Weston 
 
 Near Honiton 
 on R. a T. R. to 
 Sidmouth, 
 HONITON • • • • 
 
 On L. T. R.'s 
 to Collumptonf to 
 Taunton J and to 
 Chard. 
 Mount Pleasant 
 
 Cross the Coly\ 
 riiier. ' 
 
 21 
 
 29| 
 
 341 
 381 
 
 If 
 
 42 
 
 45 
 
 47 
 
 53| 
 
 55| 
 57X 
 
 38| 
 
 Foulkes, esq. L. 
 
 Fulford'house,Col.Fulfordf'R. 
 Lord Grenville. 
 
 Haccombe, W. Lee, esq. L. ; 
 J. Graves Sawle, esq. ; and 
 Cleave-house, Thos. North- 
 more, esq. 
 
 [nns: Hotel, New London 
 Inn, Old London Inn, 
 Half-Moon. 
 
 Poltimore, Sir Ch. War. 
 Bampfylde, hurt. L. 
 
 Blue Haj/eSy L. 
 
 liockhere-court, Mrs. Bid- 
 good; and Rockbere-house, 
 Thomas Porter, esq. 
 
 Larkbear, Feniton - court, 
 G. B. Northcote, esq. L.; 
 on R. Cadhay, Mrs. Sut- 
 ton. 
 
 Deer-park House, Major 
 Shuldam, L.; at Weston- 
 cottage, S. Stephens, esq. 
 L.; and on L. Oakfield- 
 house, R. H. Symonds, esq. 
 
 Northcote-house, Rev. A. Co- 
 ney; Holy shut - cot, D, 
 Garrett, esq. L. 
 
 Inns : Dolphin, Golden Lion, 
 The Angel, Black Lion, 
 
 C3
 
 18 
 
 Wilmington • • • • 
 Kilmington • • • • 
 Cross the Axe 
 river to 
 
 AXMINSTEIl 
 
 ITINERARY OF THE 
 Q 61 
 
 44 Qb\ Shute-house, Sir W, T. Pole, 
 
 hart. 
 
 Coryton-house, W. Tuckerf 
 esq. L.; Cloakham-housef 
 W. Alexander, esq. L. 
 67 Inn : George. 
 
 PLYMOUTH TO WELLINGTON, 
 
 THROUGH ASHBURTON, CHUDLEIGH, EXETER, AND 
 COLLUMPTON. 
 
 Tnns : Globe, King's Arms, 
 
 Prince George. 
 Totehill, Mrs, Culme, R. 
 
 Higher Efford, W. Clark, 
 esq.; and Lower Efford, 
 Col. Nelson, L. 
 
 Saltram, Earl of Morlei/f'R. 
 
 Inn : George. 
 
 Goodamore, P. Trehy, esq.; 
 Beachuood, R. Rosdrew, 
 esq.; and Hamerton'hall, 
 G. Woolcombe, esq. L. 
 
 Blatchford, Sir John Leman 
 Rogers, hart. L. 
 
 Plymouth to 
 
 
 
 The Plym river • • 
 
 3{ 
 
 '^ 
 
 t 
 
 
 
 PlymptonSt.Mary 
 
 Plympton Earl 
 
 Cross the Yealme 
 
 1 
 
 4| 
 5 
 
 river. 
 
 Lee Mill 
 
 4 
 
 9 
 
 Chudleigh 
 
 Woodland 
 
 On L. a T. R. 
 
 to Tavistock. 
 Cross the Erme 
 
 1 
 
 10| 
 
 river. 
 
 Ivy-bridge 
 
 On R. a T. R. 
 
 to Totncss. 
 Bideford-bridge . . 
 Cherston 
 
 2 
 
 11-1 
 
 131 
 16 
 
 St of or d, P. Botven, esq. L.
 
 ROADS IN 
 
 DEVONSHIRE. 19 
 
 Cross the Avon 
 
 
 
 
 river. 
 
 
 
 
 TKreunt •••••••••• 
 
 1 
 
 17 
 19 
 
 
 jjrciiL •••••••••• 
 
 Harburton Ford 
 
 Marley -house, Mrs. Palk, 
 
 Dean Prior 
 
 H 
 
 20| 
 
 R.; Spitchwick, Lord Ash- 
 
 Buckfastleigh • • 
 
 H 
 
 22 
 
 burloii^ L. ; and Buckland, 
 
 On L. a R. to 
 
 
 
 Mrs. Bastard. 
 
 Holme. 
 
 
 
 
 Cross the Dart 
 
 
 
 
 river. 
 
 
 
 
 ASHBURTON • • • • 
 
 n 
 
 24i 
 
 Inns : Golden Lion, London 
 Inn. 
 
 Love-lane 
 
 3 
 
 271 
 
 Holne-parky Sir B. Wray, 
 hart. L.; Ingsdon- house y 
 
 Bickington • • • • 
 
 1 
 
 28 
 
 Capt. Samber, R, ; Lewell- 
 
 On R. a T. R. 
 
 
 
 house, — Butty esq. R. 
 
 to Newton Bushel. 
 
 
 
 
 Cross the Teign 
 
 
 
 
 river. 
 
 
 
 t 
 
 Jews Bridge • • • • 
 
 3 
 
 31 
 
 
 Knighton 
 
 1 
 
 32 
 
 Stover-house, Geo. Templer, 
 esq. 11. 
 
 — — — 
 
 
 
 Ugbrook, Lord Clifford, R. 
 
 Chudleigh ••.. 
 
 2 
 
 34 
 
 Inns: Clifford's Arms, King's 
 Arms. 
 
 — — ^ 
 
 
 
 Whiteway, M. E. Parker, 
 
 Cross the river 
 
 
 
 esq. L., and E. Parker, 
 
 Ken. 
 
 
 
 esq. 
 
 Clopton-bridgc •• 
 
 5 
 
 39 
 
 Haldon-house, Lady Eliza- 
 
 Shillingford . • • • 
 
 1 
 
 40 
 
 beth Palk, L. 
 
 Alpliington .... 
 
 H 
 
 411 
 
 Peamore, Samuel Kekewich, 
 
 On R. T. Rs. to 
 
 
 
 esq. L. 
 
 Newton Bushel 4 
 
 
 
 
 Star Cross. 
 
 
 
 
 Exeter 
 
 2 
 
 43-1 
 
 Inns: Hotel, New Londort 
 
 On R. T. Rs. to 
 
 
 
 Inn, Old London Inn, 
 
 Topshum, Bishop's 
 
 
 
 Half-Moon. 
 
 Clyst, and Honi- 
 
 
 
 
 ton. 
 
 
 
 
 Stuffords ' 
 
 2 
 
 451 

 
 20 
 
 Monkaton 
 Brad n inch 
 
 ITINERARY OF THE 
 
 COLLUMPTON 
 
 On R. a T. R. to 
 HitoUj on L. to 
 Tiverton. 
 
 Cross the Co- 
 Ivmb river. 
 Welland .... 
 
 Beyond Welland, 
 on L. a T. R. to 
 Tiverton. 
 
 South Appledore 
 Maiden Down • 
 Bluetts Cross 
 
 Enter Somerset- 
 shire. 
 
 Rockwell-green 
 Wellington 
 
 50i 
 
 52f 
 
 551 
 
 571 
 
 661 
 
 Poltimoref Sir Chas. War. 
 Bampfylde, hart. B. 
 
 Combe Sackville, Mrs. Br own j 
 L.; and a little farther 
 on L. Killerton-park, Sir 
 Thomas Dyke Acklandy 
 hart. 
 
 Inns : Half-Moon, White 
 Hart. 
 
 Knozcle, — Cross, esq. L. 
 
 Bridwell -house, R. H, 
 Clarke, esq. R. 
 
 Inns: Squirrel, and White 
 Hart. 
 
 SALTASH TO EXETER, 
 
 THROUGH MODBURY, TOTNESS, AND NEWTON BUSHEL. 
 
 Saltash to 
 
 Over the Tamer. 
 Nackershole • • « 
 
 Plymouth-road . • 
 PlymptonSt.Mary 
 Plympton Earl 
 
 Brixton 
 
 Yealrapton « 
 
 1 
 
 1 
 
 2 
 
 3 
 
 1 
 1 
 
 4 
 3 
 5\ 
 
 ^ 
 H 
 
 8 
 
 91 
 
 Efford, W. Clarke, esq. R. 
 Boringdon-park, L. Earl 
 
 Morley. 
 [nn : George. 
 Sherford, Mrs. Rome, R. 
 Coffieet, Rev. R. Lane, R.; 
 
 Kitley, E. F. Bastardy
 
 RO^ 
 
 kDS 
 
 IN 
 
 DEVONSHIRE. 21 
 
 Cross the Yealnu 
 
 
 
 esq.R.; and a little fa?-- 
 
 river. 
 
 
 
 iher, Purslinch, Rev. J. 
 
 Sequers-bridge • • 
 
 H 
 
 13 
 
 Yonge. 
 
 Cross the Ermc 
 
 
 
 
 river. 
 
 
 
 
 MODBURY 
 
 2 
 
 15 
 
 Inn : Exeter Inn. 
 
 Brownson 
 
 3 
 
 18 
 
 Traine, — Andrcm, esq. R. 
 
 On R. a T. R. 
 
 
 
 
 to Dartmouth. 
 
 
 
 
 Luckbridge • • ■ • 
 
 1 
 
 19 
 
 
 Cross the Aven 
 
 
 
 
 river. 
 
 
 
 
 Ingleburn 
 
 '^l 
 
 m 
 
 
 A little beyond 
 
 
 
 
 on R. a T. ll to 
 
 
 
 
 Kingshridge. 
 
 
 
 
 TOTNESS 
 
 'H 
 
 27 
 
 Berry Pomeroj/'Castle, Duke 
 
 On L. a T. R. 
 
 
 
 of Somerset, R. 
 
 to Ashburton. 
 
 
 
 Dartinglon, Mrs. Chayr^per 
 
 Cross the Dart 
 
 
 
 noune. 
 
 river. 
 
 
 
 
 Bow •• 
 
 •^1 
 
 30i 
 33 
 
 
 Two Mile Oak •• 
 
 2| 
 
 
 Newton Bushel 
 
 1 
 
 35 
 
 Ford Ayshfordy — Wise, 
 
 On L. T. Rs. 
 
 
 
 esq. — luns : Globe, Hotely 
 
 to Ashburton and 
 
 
 
 Sun. 
 
 Chudleigh. 
 
 
 
 
 Cross the Teign 
 
 
 
 
 river. 
 
 
 
 
 Sandy-gate . • • • 
 
 n 
 
 37i 
 
 Lyndridge, Rev. John Tem- 
 plar, R,; and Ugbrook, 
 Lord Clifford, L. 
 
 — — — 
 
 
 
 Mamhead, Earl of Lishurne, 
 
 L. 
 Castle-Lawrence, built in 
 
 Haldon-hili • • • • 
 
 ^ 
 
 44 
 
 
 
 
 honour of General Law- 
 
 
 
 
 rence; and OxtoH^house, 
 
 
 
 
 Rev. J. Sweete. 
 
 Kenford 
 
 2 
 
 46 
 
 Powder ham - castle, George
 
 ITINERARY OF THE 
 
 Alpington 
 
 On^L. a T. R. 
 to Chudleigh; on 
 R. to Star-cross. 
 Exeter 
 
 48 
 
 50 
 
 Clucke^csq. ; on L. Haldon- 
 house, Lady Eliz. Palk. 
 
 Inns: Hotelj Neni London 
 Inn, Old London Inii, 
 Half 'Moon, 
 
 NEWTON ABBOTS TO MODBURY, 
 
 THROUGH DARTMOUTH AND MORLEIGU. 
 
 Newton Abbots to 
 Abbots Kerswell 
 
 On R. a T, R. 
 to Totness. 
 Comptou • • • • 
 Marldon .... 
 
 A mile farther 
 on R. a R. to 
 Totness; on L. to 
 Faington. 
 
 Gampton « • • . 
 
 On L. a R. to 
 Brixkam. 
 Kingsweare • . 
 
 Cross the Ferry 
 to 
 Dartmouth • • 
 
 Townstall • • • . 
 
 2 a;o miles and a 
 half beyond on L 
 a T. R. to Kings- 
 bridge. 
 
 Halwell 
 
 iVIorleigh 
 
 On R. a T. R. to 
 Totness ; on L. to 
 Kingshridge, 
 
 11 
 
 15 
 
 151 
 
 Compton-abbey, — Bishop, 
 esq. 
 
 Berry Fomeroy-castlCj Duke 
 of Somerset, L. 
 
 Walton-court, H. Studdy, 
 esq., and Greenway, J. M. 
 Elton, esq, R.; onL,Lup^ 
 ton-house, — Fuller, esq. 
 
 Kitterey-courf, J. L. Fozones; 
 on L. Nethway, J. F. Lut- 
 trell, esq. 
 
 Inn: Castle. 
 
 Mount Galpin, A. H^ Holds- 
 worth, esq. R. 
 
 Norton-house, Mrs. Bond, R. 
 
 Mount Boon, J. H, Searle, 
 esq. R. 
 
 Oldstone, unoccupied. 
 Near at Halwell, Stanbo' 
 rough-house,Col. Edmonds,
 
 ROADS IN DEVONSHIEE. 
 
 23 
 
 Gcrah-bridge».»« 
 
 H 
 
 251 
 
 Cross the river 
 
 
 
 Aven. 
 
 
 
 Near Brownson, 
 
 
 
 on R. a T, R. to 
 
 
 
 Totness. ' 
 
 
 
 Brownson 
 
 H 
 
 m 
 
 MoDBURY ...... 
 
 13 
 
 30i 
 
 Inn : Exeter Inn. 
 HATHERLEIGH TO LYME REGIS, 
 
 THROUGH CREDITON AND EXET£R. 
 
 Hatuerleigii to 
 
 
 
 
 Jacobstow 
 
 3i 
 
 H 
 
 
 Cross the Oak- 
 
 
 
 
 jnent river. 
 
 
 
 
 Exborn 
 
 H 
 
 4^ 
 
 
 Sampford Courte- 
 
 o 
 
 H 
 
 
 nay ••......«« 
 
 
 
 On R. a R. to 
 
 
 
 
 Oakhampton. 
 
 
 
 
 North Tavvton . • 
 
 n 
 
 9 
 
 
 PJn\X7 .......... 
 
 4. 
 
 13 
 
 Pascoe, C. Hamli/n, esg. 11. 
 
 J30W .»..»..•.. 
 
 Colebrook 
 
 H 
 
 161 
 
 Combe, J. Sillifant, esq. R. 
 
 Crediton 
 
 4 
 
 20| 
 
 Inns: Angel. Ship. White 
 
 On L. r. R. to 
 
 
 
 Hart. 
 
 Chumleigh and Ti- 
 
 
 
 
 verton. 
 
 
 
 
 Newton St. Gyres 
 
 3 
 
 231 
 
 Newton St. Cyres House, J. 
 
 Cross the river 
 
 
 
 Quick, esq.; Cleave-house, 
 
 Exe. 
 
 
 
 Rev. I. K. Cleave, R. 
 
 — — — 
 
 
 
 Fynes,Sir H. Stafford North- 
 cote, bart. Jj. 
 
 Cowley-bridge « . 
 
 2| 
 
 26 
 
 Cowley-place^AdmiralPraed. 
 
 Exeter 
 
 2 
 
 28 
 
 Inns: Hotel, New London 
 
 Heavitree 
 
 li 
 
 291 
 
 Inn, Old London Inn, 
 
 On L. a T. R. to 
 
 
 
 Half-Moon. 
 
 Honiton Clysi. 
 
 
 
 
 Bishop's Ciyst .. 
 
 2 
 
 31i 
 
 
 St. Mary^s Clyst 
 
 1| 
 
 32| 

 
 24 
 
 ITINERARY OF THE 
 
 Farringdon Cross 
 
 — 
 
 33i 
 
 Farringdon-housCfJ.B. Choi' 
 uich, esq. 
 
 White Cross • • • • 
 
 1 
 
 34i 
 
 
 Tipton 
 
 2 
 
 36i 
 
 
 Newtoji Popple- 
 
 
 
 
 ford 
 
 1 
 
 3ri 
 
 
 Cross the Otter 
 
 
 
 
 river. 
 
 
 
 
 Sidford 
 
 3 
 
 40i 
 
 
 Colyford 
 
 H 
 
 m 
 
 
 Cross the Axe 
 
 
 
 ^ 
 
 river. 
 
 
 
 
 Enter Dorset- 
 
 
 
 
 shire. 
 
 
 
 
 Lyme Regis • • • • 
 
 o| 
 
 561 
 
 Inns: Golden Lion, Three 
 
 Cups. 
 HARTLAND TO WELLINGTON, 
 
 THROUGH BIDEFORD, BARNSTAPLE, SOUTH MOLTON, 
 AND TIVERTON. 
 
 Hartland to 
 
 Harton 
 
 BiDEFORD • • 
 
 On R. a T. R. to 
 
 Torrington. 
 East Leigh • • 
 Hamacot • • 
 
 On R. a T. R. to 
 Torrington. 
 
 Cross the river 
 Taw. 
 Barnstaple 
 
 On L. "Rs. to II' 
 fracomh and Comb 
 Martin. 
 Newport • . 
 
 OnR.aT.R.to 
 Chumleigh, 
 
 ill 
 
 13^ 
 
 16 
 
 21 
 
 J|:17i 
 
 4| 
 
 22 
 
 23 
 
 The Abbc]/, Mrs. Orchard. 
 Clovelly-court, Sir James 
 Hamli/nWilliams, bart. L. 
 Daddo?i,L. W.Buckyesq. L. 
 Inn : Pack Horse. 
 
 Tapleyy unoccupied. 
 
 Tawstockf Sir Bourchier 
 
 Wrexfy bart. R. 
 Inns : Exeter Inn^ Golden 
 
 Lion, Union Roo?ns, and 
 
 HoteL
 
 ROADS 
 
 IN DEVONSIIIP.E. 25 
 
 Landkey 
 
 in4i 
 
 
 Swim bridge 
 
 21 
 
 26i 
 
 
 Filleii^h 
 
 H 
 
 30 
 
 Castle-hill, Earl Fortescue. 
 
 South Alia 
 
 n 
 
 3li 
 
 
 OnR a T. R. to 
 
 
 
 
 Turrington. 
 
 
 
 
 South Molton 
 
 2 
 
 33| 
 
 Inn : George. 
 
 Onii.aT.R.to 
 
 
 
 
 Chumleigk; and 2 
 
 
 
 
 miles fart/itr, on 
 
 
 
 
 L. to Dulverton. 
 
 
 
 
 llackenford • • • • 
 
 101 
 
 431 
 
 
 Caverleigli 
 
 SI- 
 
 49i 
 
 
 Tiverton • . ^ . . • 
 
 SI 
 
 o2 
 
 Tiverton-castle,LadyCarcu\ 
 
 On L. a T. R. to 
 
 
 
 L. — Inns: Angel, Three 
 
 Bampton; onR. to 
 
 
 
 Tun,. 
 
 Exeter and Cot- 
 
 
 
 
 lumpton. 
 
 
 
 
 Halberton 
 
 3 
 
 55 
 
 Bridzcell - house, R. H. 
 
 Sampford Peverel 
 
 2 
 
 57 
 
 Clarke, esq. R. 
 
 Bet/ond, on R. a 
 
 
 
 
 T. R. to Collump^ 
 
 
 
 
 ton. 
 
 
 
 
 South Appledore 
 
 H 
 
 b9\ 
 
 Inn : White Bull. 
 
 Maiden Down • • 
 
 
 
 
 Bluet's Cross 
 
 1 
 
 60| 
 
 
 Enter Somerset- 
 
 
 
 
 shire. 
 
 
 
 
 Rockwell-green 
 
 2| 
 
 63i 
 
 
 WELLI^GT0N •• 
 
 1 
 
 641 
 
 Inns: Squirrel, and White 
 Hart. 
 
 BARNSTAPLE TO PLYMOUTH, 
 
 THROUGH TORRINGTON, HATHERI.EIGH, GAKHAMPION, 
 AND TAVISTOCK. 
 
 Barnstaple to 
 
 
 
 Inns : Exeter Inn, Golden 
 
 Cross the river 
 
 
 
 Lion, Union Rooms, and 
 
 Taw. 
 
 
 
 Hotel. 
 
 Roundshill 
 
 3 
 
 3 
 
 
 St. John's Chapel 
 
 1 
 
 4 
 
 
 D
 
 ITINERARY OF THE 
 
 Newton Tracy • • 
 
 2 
 
 6 
 
 
 Alverdiscott • • • • 
 
 1 
 
 7 
 
 
 TORRINGTON.... 
 
 4| 
 
 111 
 
 
 OnR.aT.R.to 
 
 
 
 
 Bide ford; on'L. to 
 
 
 
 
 South Molton. 
 
 
 
 
 Cross the Tor- 
 
 
 
 
 rldge river. 
 
 
 
 
 Little Torrington 
 
 1 
 
 121 
 
 Winscot, T. M. Stevens, esq. 
 R. 
 
 Heanton-courtjMrs.Tanner. 
 
 __ 
 
 
 
 Petrockstow . • • • 
 
 5| 
 
 18 
 
 
 Hatherleigh •• 
 
 4 
 
 22 
 
 
 On R. a R. to 
 
 
 
 
 Holszcorthy; o«L. 
 
 
 
 
 to Crediton. 
 
 
 
 
 Five Oaks 
 
 5 
 
 27 
 
 
 Oakhampton •• 
 
 2 
 
 29 
 
 Inns: White Hart, White 
 
 Cross the Oak- 
 
 
 
 Horse. 
 
 ment river. 
 
 
 
 Oaklands, A. Saville, esq. R. 
 
 On L. T. Rs. to 
 
 
 
 
 Crediton and Exe- 
 
 
 
 
 ter ; and a mile 
 
 
 
 
 fai^ther on R. to 
 
 
 
 
 Launceston. 
 
 
 
 
 Souiton 
 
 ii 
 
 331 
 
 
 Dovvnton 
 
 H 
 
 36 
 
 
 On L. a T. R. to 
 
 
 
 
 Horra-bridge. 
 
 
 
 « 
 
 Lidford 
 
 1 
 
 37 
 
 
 Cross the river 
 
 
 
 
 Lid. 
 
 
 
 
 Brent Tor, T. G. 
 
 H 
 
 401 
 
 
 Tavistock . • • . 
 
 4 
 
 441 
 
 Inns : Bedford Inn, London 
 
 07iR.aT.R.to 
 
 
 
 Inn. 
 
 Launceston. 
 
 
 
 Tavist ock'house, Duke of Bed- 
 
 On L. to More- 
 
 
 
 ford. 
 
 ton Hampstead. 
 
 
 
 
 Cross the Tavr/ 
 
 
 
 
 river. 
 
 

 
 Whitechurch • • • • 
 Hona-bridge* • • • 
 Koboroui;h Inn* • 
 New Inn 
 
 Nackersliole,T.G 
 A little beyond 
 on R. a T.R. to 
 Plymouth Dock. 
 Plymouth • • • 
 
 no ADS IN 
 
 40 
 
 DEVONSHIRE. 
 
 27 
 
 [nns: Globe, King^s ArmSj 
 
 AND 
 
 ILFRACOMB TO EXMOUTH, 
 
 THROUGH BARNSTAPLE, CHUMLEIGH, CREDITON, 
 EXETER. 
 
 Fnn : Britannia. 
 
 Marwood-hill, Rev. — Mules, 
 R.; Ley-house f George Ley, 
 esq. R. 
 
 Upcott, Mrs. Harding, R.; 
 Razvletgh, unoccupied, L. 
 
 Hcanton-court, Mm. Tanner, 
 R.; Pilton-cottage, unoc- 
 cupied, L. 
 
 Tawstock, Sir Bourch. Wrey, 
 bart. R. 
 
 Ilfracomb to 
 
 
 
 Burland 
 
 5 
 
 5 
 
 Marwood 
 
 ^ 
 
 71 
 
 Prexford 
 
 1 
 
 2 
 
 8 
 
 Pilfnn • < 
 
 o 
 
 10 
 
 i iiLon •••••••••• 
 
 On L. a R. to 
 
 
 Comb Martin ; on 
 
 
 
 R. to Baggy Point. 
 
 
 
 Barnstaple* • •• 
 
 1 
 
 11 
 
 Cross the Taw 
 
 
 
 river. 
 
 
 
 New Bridge . • • • 
 
 4 
 
 15 
 
 Atherington . • • • 
 
 4 
 
 19 
 
 On R a T. R. to 
 
 
 
 Torrington; on L. 
 
 
 
 to South Molton. 
 
 
 
 High Bickington 
 
 'i 
 
 21 
 
 Burrington 
 
 3 
 
 24 
 
 Chumleigh • • • . 
 
 3 
 
 27 
 
 Cross the Little 
 
 
 
 Dart river. 
 
 
 
 Chawley •♦.... 
 
 o 
 
 29 
 
 New Inn 
 
 k 
 
 3U 
 
 New-place, J, Tanner, esq. L. 
 Colleton , J. D. Ashworth, esq, 
 
 R. 
 Inn : King's Arms, 
 
 D2
 
 S8 ITINERARY OF THE 
 
 On R. a R. to 
 Bow. ' 
 Morcharrl Bishop? 2\ 
 
 Oldburrovv 1 
 
 New Buildings • • 2f 
 
 Crediton 
 
 On L. a T. R. to 
 
 Titerton; 07i R. to 
 
 Bozo. 
 
 Newton St. Cvres 
 
 Cowley-bridge • • 
 Cross the Exe 
 river. 
 
 On L. a T. R. to 
 Thorzceton. 
 Thorweton • • • • 
 
 Exeter 
 
 On R. r. Rs. 
 to Oakhampton, 
 Moj^eton Hamp' 
 stead, Chudleigh, 
 and Nezvton Ab- 
 bots; on L. to Ho- 
 niton Clyst. 
 TOPSHAM 
 
 Exton 
 
 3i 
 
 33i 
 34i 
 37 
 
 il 
 
 i4 
 
 46i 
 
 48i 
 
 Youlston, Sir Arthur Chi- 
 chester, bart. 1.. 
 Greedy, Sir J. Davie, bart. L. 
 Downs, J. W. Buller, esq. L. 
 
 Cleave-house, Rev. J. K. 
 Cleave; Newton St. Cyre.s- 
 house, J. Quick, esq. 
 
 Pynes, Sir H. Stafford North- 
 cote, bart. L. ' 
 
 Cowley-place, Admiral Praed. 
 
 Duryard'lodge, C. Cross, esq. 
 
 Inns: Hotel, New London 
 Inn, Old London Inn, 
 Half-Moon. 
 
 Radford, H. J. Harris, esq. 
 
 Inns: Globe ^ Salutation. 
 Retreat, Mrs. Hare. 
 Wear, Lady Duckworth, L. 
 Mount Ebford, T. H. Lee, 
 
 esq. L. 
 Higher Nutwell, T. Heath- 
 
 field, esq. L. 
 Kutwell-court, SlrT. T. F. E. 
 
 Drake, bart, R.
 
 ROADS IN DEVONSHIRE. 
 
 29 
 
 Lympstone 
 
 Exraouth 
 
 41 
 
 53^ 
 
 6U 
 
 Tavistock to 
 
 Tzco miles he- 
 vond on L. aT.R 
 to Oakhampton, 
 and to Plymouth. 
 
 Moortown 
 
 Merriville-bridge 
 Dart river • • • 
 New House • • • 
 
 Entra7ice of 
 Dartmoor Forest 
 Wormhill 
 
 MORETON i 
 
 Hampstead •• 5 
 
 Crew 
 
 Longdown End 
 
 Pocomb 
 
 Exeter 
 
 Powderham - castle, George 
 Clacke,esg,; MissParmin' 
 ter, L. ; Courtlaiid, Sir' 
 Walter Roberts, hart. L. 
 [nns: Globe, London Inn. 
 TAVISTOCK TO EXETER, 
 
 THROUGH MORETON HAMPSTEAD. 
 
 Inns: Bedford Inn, Lon- 
 don Inn. 
 
 Tavist ock'house, Duke of 
 Bedford. 
 
 3 
 
 3 
 
 2 
 
 5 
 
 3 
 
 8 
 
 H 
 
 141 
 
 3 
 
 171 
 
 1 
 
 18| 
 
 3 
 
 21| 
 
 7 
 
 28^ 
 
 1 
 
 m 
 
 1^ 
 
 3H 
 
 n 
 
 331 
 
 Inn : White Hart. 
 Perridgey J. Williams, esq, R. 
 
 Inns: Hotel, New London 
 Inn, Old London Inn, 
 Half- Moon. 
 BIDEFORD TO HONITON, 
 
 THROUGH CHUMLEIGH, TIVERTON, AND COLLUMPTON. 
 
 BiDEFORD to 
 
 Cross the Tor- 
 ridge-river. 
 Hunshaw ...... 
 
 On R. a. T. R. 
 to Torrington ; on 
 L. to Barnstaple. 
 Dipford ........ 
 
 On L. a T. R. 
 to Barnstaple. 
 
 lOi 
 
 Inn: Pack Horse. 
 
 Ebbcrty-house, H, Hole, esq » 
 R. 
 
 D^
 
 30 
 
 Burriuglon 
 
 Chumleigh 
 
 Cross the TaW' 
 river. 
 
 Chawleigh • 
 Thelbridge 
 
 Templeton 
 Calverleigh 
 
 TlVEllTON 
 
 COLLUMPTON •• 
 
 Cross the river 
 Culn. 
 
 Awliscombe • • 
 
 On R. a r. R. 
 to Exeter. 
 
 ITINERARY OF THE 
 
 river. 
 Honiton 
 
 5i 
 
 13| 
 
 181 
 
 261 
 281 
 321 
 
 38 
 
 461 
 
 Inn: King's Arms. 
 
 Inns: Angel, Three Tuns. 
 Tiverton-castle, Ladif Ca- 
 
 rew, L. 
 Zephyr' s-lodge, P. Blundellf 
 
 esq. 
 Colly Priest f unoccupied, 
 milersdown. 
 [nns: Half -Moon, White 
 
 Hart. 
 
 Strawberry-hilly Mrs. L. 
 Walrond, L. 
 
 Grange, W?n. Drezve,esq.L. 
 
 Hembury Fort'house, Admi- 
 ral R. Graves, R. 
 
 Wolford-lodge, Mrs. Simcoe, 
 
 Ivedon, Phil. Gidney, esq.L. 
 Ashfeld, Aliss Head, L. 
 Egg land, Miss Elliott, L. 
 Westoti - cottage, Samuel 
 Stevens, esq. R. 
 Cross the Otter Trucey-house, Harry Baines 
 
 Lott, esq. L. 
 481 Inns: Dolphin, Golden Lion, 
 Ang€l, Black Lion. 
 TIVERTON TO EXETER, 
 
 THROUGH SILVERTON. 
 
 Tiverton to 
 
 Butterleigli or 
 BIcklev .-. 
 
 Inns: Three Tuns, Angel. 
 Colly Priest, unoccupied, R.
 
 IIOADS IN DEVONSHIRE. 
 
 31 
 
 Sllverton 
 
 H 
 
 H 
 
 .Si?' Thomas Dyke Ackland, 
 
 On R. a T. K 
 
 
 
 bart. L. 
 
 to Cadleigh. 
 
 
 
 
 Rew 
 
 ^ 
 
 9 
 
 
 Stoke Cannon • • 
 
 1 
 
 10 
 
 
 — — — 
 
 
 
 Stoke-hill, J. Sanders, esq. 
 
 Cross the river 
 
 
 
 
 Exe. 
 
 
 
 
 ExETEIl ...... 
 
 SI 
 
 1S1 
 
 [nns: Hotel, Kezo London 
 Inn, Old London Inn, 
 
 
 "H 
 
 J.O2 
 
 >« 
 
 
 
 Half-Moon. 
 
 DULVERTON TO TORRINGTON, 
 
 THROUGH SOUTH MOLTON. 
 
 ..3 
 
 DuLVEItTON to I 
 
 Bounds cf this 
 
 county • 
 Durleyford 
 JBusli-Lridge • • • • 
 
 On L. a T. R. 
 to Tiverton. 
 
 Cross the Mole- 
 river. 
 South Moi.ton 
 
 A mile beyond, 
 on R. a T. R. to 
 Barnstaple ; on L 
 to 
 Cliittlehampton 
 
 On R. a R. to 
 Barnstaple ; on L. 
 to Chumleigh. 
 
 Cross the Tan- 
 river. 
 Atherintrton 
 
 On ir. a T. R. 
 to Barnstaple; on 
 L. to Chumleigh. 
 
 TORRINGTON • • 
 
 n 
 
 H 
 
 n 
 
 3 
 6 
 
 Hi 
 
 13 
 
 18| 
 
 21| 
 
 Inn ; George. 
 
 Hudscot, Lord Rolle, L, 
 
 Inn : The Globe.
 
 32 
 
 ITINERARY OF THE 
 
 SOUTH MOLTON TO EXETER, 
 
 THROUGH CREDITON. 
 
 South Molton to 
 East Worlineton 
 
 Thelbridge ^ 
 
 Black Dog Inn • • 
 Sandford 
 
 9 
 
 2 
 5 
 
 9 
 101 
 
 m 
 
 21 
 
 191 
 
 3 
 
 22| 
 25 
 
 2 
 
 27 
 
 Inn: George. 
 
 YoulstoUf Sir Arthur Chi' 
 Chester, hart. L.; Creedy, 
 Sir J. Davie, hart. R. 
 
 Inns: Angel, Ship, White 
 Hart. . 
 
 Downs f J. W. Buller. esq. L. 
 
 PyneSjSir H. Stafford North- 
 cote, hart. L. 
 
 On R. a T. R. 
 
 to Chimileigh 
 Crediton • • 
 
 On R. a T. R. 
 toHatherleigh; on 
 L. to Tiverton. 
 Newton St. Cyres 
 Cowley-bridge 
 
 Cross the Exe 
 river, 
 
 Duryardrlodge, C. Cross, 
 Exeter 2 27 esq. L. 
 
 TAUNTON TO EXMOUTH, 
 
 through HONITON and OTTERY ST. MARY. 
 
 Taunton to 
 
 Trull 
 
 Blagdon 
 
 Enter this 
 county. 
 
 Churchingford < 
 Upottery ..... 
 
 Cross the Otter 
 river. 
 
 Rawridge • • 
 Haynesyard 
 Monkton, Church 
 
 Honiton 
 
 2 
 
 2 
 
 3 
 
 5 
 
 4| 
 3 
 
 121 
 
 2 
 
 13 
 15 
 
 1 
 
 16 
 
 2 
 
 18 
 
 Upotteryhouse, 
 mouth. 
 
 Lord Sid- 
 
 Woodbine-hill, Miss Graves^ 
 
 R. 
 Inns : Dolphin, Golden Lion,
 
 ROADS 
 
 IN 
 
 DEVONSHIRE. oJ 
 
 On L. a T. R 
 
 
 
 
 to Chard; on R 
 
 
 
 
 CO Collumpton. 
 
 
 
 
 Along the Exe- 
 
 
 
 
 ter road to near 
 
 
 
 
 Fenny-bridges • • 
 
 3 
 
 21 
 
 Feniton-court, G. B. North' 
 
 Forward to Ex- 
 
 
 
 cotej esq.; beyond zvhich 
 
 eter ; on L. to 
 
 
 
 is Corscombe-house, H. 
 
 Alphington • • • • 
 
 1 
 
 '^2 
 
 Wright, esq. R. 
 
 OtterySt.Mary 
 
 2 
 
 24 
 
 
 Fen Otterv • • • • 
 
 2 
 
 26 
 
 
 On L. a T. R 
 
 
 
 
 to Harpford. 
 
 
 
 
 Newton Popple- 
 
 
 
 
 ford 
 
 1 
 
 27 
 
 
 OnL. a T. R 
 
 
 
 
 to Lyme Regis ; on 
 
 
 
 
 R. to Exeter. 
 
 
 
 
 Colvton Rawleigh 
 
 2 
 
 29 
 
 Bicton-lodge, Lord Rolle. 
 
 East Budleigh • • 
 
 2 
 
 31 
 
 
 Knole 
 
 n 
 
 32| 
 
 Marpool, W. J. Hull, esq. 
 R.; beyond zvhich is Court' 
 land, Sir Walter Roberts, 
 bart. 
 
 Exmouth 
 
 3i 
 
 36 
 
 [nns: London Inn,^- Globe. 
 
 E 
 
 ND 
 
 OF 
 
 ITINERAliy.
 
 ( 34 ) 
 
 FAIRS IN DEVONSHIRE. 
 
 Alphington. — Wednesday 
 after June 20, Wednes- 
 day in the first full 
 week after Michaelmas, 
 horses. 
 
 Ashburton. — First Thurs- 
 day in March, first 
 Thursday in June, Au- 
 gust 10, November 11, 
 cattle of all sorts. 
 
 Ashwater. — First Tuesday 
 in May, and first l\Ton- 
 day after August 1. 
 
 Axminster. — April 25, 
 Wednesday after June 
 26, Wednesday after 
 September 29, cattle. 
 
 Bampfon, — Wednesday 
 before March 25, Whit- 
 suntide-Tuesday, last 
 Thursday in October, 
 last Wednesday in No- 
 vember, cattle. 
 
 Barnstaple. — Friday be- 
 fore April 21, Septem- 
 ber 19, second Friday 
 in December. 
 
 Bideford. — February 14, 
 July 18, November 
 13. 
 
 Bishop^s Nympton. — April 
 14, October 20. 
 
 Bovey Tracy. — Easter- 
 Monday, Holy Thurs- 
 day, first Thursday in 
 July, first Thursday in 
 November, wool. 
 
 Bow. — Holy Thursday,- 
 November 22, cattle. 
 
 Brent. — May 13, October 
 10, cattle! 
 
 Bridestozv. — Second Wed- 
 nesday in June, first 
 W'ednesday in October. 
 
 Broadclkt. — May 3, cat- 
 tle. 
 
 Broadhemhury. — Novem- 
 ber 30, cattle. 
 
 Broadworthy. — Septem- 
 ber 9, cattle. 
 
 Buckfastleigh. — June 29, 
 August 24, sheep, cat- 
 tle. 
 
 Buckland.—\N\\\t. Tues- 
 d ay, November 2, cattle. 
 
 Chawley.^ May 6, De- 
 cember 11, cattle. 
 
 Chagford. — Last Thurs- 
 day in March, last 
 Thursday in September, 
 last Thursday in Octo- 
 ber, cattle. 
 
 Chumleigh. — August 1, 
 cattle. 
 
 Chudleigh. — Easter Mon- 
 day, Tuesday and Wed- 
 nesday, St. Barnabas, 
 St. Martin, cattle. 
 
 Churchingford. — January 
 25,lastFriday in March, 
 last Friday in April, 
 bullocks. 
 
 Collumpton, — First Wed- 
 nesday in May, first
 
 LIST OF FAIRS. 
 
 35 
 
 Wednesday in Novem- 
 ber, cattle. 
 
 Cohiford. — March 1, cat- 
 tle. 
 
 Coll/ton. Wednesday, 
 
 May 1, November 30. 
 
 Crediton. — May 11, Au- 
 gust 21, September 21, 
 cattle. 
 
 Culmstock. — May 22, cat- 
 tle. 
 
 Daiolish. — Easter Mon- 
 day. 
 
 Denhury. — September 8, 
 cheese and soap. 
 
 Dolt on. — Wednesday be- 
 fore March 25, Thurs- 
 day before October 1, 
 or on that day, if 
 Thursday, cattle. 
 
 Drezosteignton. First 
 
 Tuesday after Candle- 
 mas, Trinity Tuesday. 
 
 Ermington. — February 2, 
 June 23, cattle. 
 
 Exeter. — Ash- Wednes- 
 day, Whit. Monday, 
 August 1, December 6, 
 cattle and horses. 
 
 Exhourn. — Third Mon- 
 day in April, cattle and 
 pedlary. 
 
 Exminster. — First Thurs- 
 day in May. 
 
 Exmouth. — April 26, Oc- 
 tober 28. 
 
 Hartland. — Easter- Wed- 
 nesday, September 25, 
 cattle. 
 
 Hatherkigh, ^-M'dy 21, 
 
 June 22, September 7, 
 November 9, cattle. 
 High Bichinglon. — May 
 3, December 21, cattle. 
 Hohzcorthy. — April 27, 
 July 10, October 2, 
 cattle. 
 Honiton. — Wednesday af- 
 ter July 19, cattle. 
 High Budleigh. — Good- 
 Friday, cattle. 
 Kilndngton. — First Wed- 
 nesday in September, 
 cattle. 
 
 Kingsbridge. July 20, 
 
 cloth and shoes. 
 Listoji. — February 2, Ho- 
 ly Thursday, Oct. 28, 
 cattle. 
 
 Membury. August 10, 
 
 cattle. 
 Modbury. — May 4, cattle, 
 
 cloth, and shoes. 
 iliorZ/wM.—Monday after 
 August 21. 
 
 More ton Hampstead. 
 
 Saturday before Whit. 
 Sunday, third Thurs- 
 day in July, last Thurs- 
 day in November, cattle. 
 Newlon Abbot. — June 24, 
 first Wednesday in 
 September, 6th No- 
 vember ^vhen on a 
 Wednesday, or first 
 Wednesday after that 
 day, cattle, cheese, and 
 woollen cloth. 
 Newton St. Cyres. — Mon- 
 day, June 23.
 
 36 
 
 Nezcton Poppleford. 
 
 First Wednesday after 
 October 18. 
 
 North Molton.— Tuesday 
 after May 11, Novem- 
 ber 12, cattle. 
 
 Northtaicton. Third 
 
 Tuesday in April, Oc- 
 tober 3, December 18. 
 
 North Bovey. — Monday 
 in the next week after 
 Midsummer-day . 
 
 Norton.— M?.vc\\ 'lO, Oc- 
 tober 10, cattle. 
 
 Oakhampton. Second 
 
 Tuesday after March 
 11, May 14, first Wed- 
 nesday after July 6, 
 August 5, first Tuesday 
 after September 11, 
 first Wednesday after 
 October li. Great 
 market, Saturday be- 
 fiare Christmas, cattle. 
 
 Otterton. — Easter- Wed- 
 nesday, first Wednes- 
 day after October 11, 
 cattle. 
 
 Otterr/. — Tuesday bevveen 
 Palm-Sunday, Whit. 
 Tuesday, August 15, 
 cattle. 
 
 Plymouth. — February 5, 
 October 3, cattle and 
 woollen cloth. 
 
 Flympton. — February 25, 
 April 5, August 12, Oc- 
 tober 28, cattle and 
 woollen cloth. 
 
 Samp. PevercL = Last 
 
 LIST OF FAIKS. 
 
 Monday in April, Au- 
 gust 29, cattle. 
 
 Seaton. — March 1, cattle. 
 
 Sheepxca^k. — April 10, 
 August 12, October 10, 
 cattle. 
 
 Sidmouth. — Easter Tues- 
 day, third Monday in 
 September, cattle. 
 
 Silver ton. — Midsummer- 
 day, March 11, cattle. 
 
 South IShdton: — Saturday 
 after February 13, Sa- 
 turday before May 1, 
 Wednesday before June 
 22, Wednesday after 
 Augiist 26, Saturday 
 before October 11, Sa- 
 turday before Decem- 
 ber 12, cattle. 
 
 Tamerton. — July 26, cat- 
 tle. 
 
 Tavistock. — January 17, 
 May 6, September 9, 
 October 10, December 
 11, cattle. 
 
 Tedburn. — First Monday 
 before Michaelmas-day. 
 
 Teignmouth. — Third Tues- 
 day in January, last 
 Thursday in February, 
 September 29, woollen 
 cloth. 
 
 Thorverton. — Monday af- 
 ter July 18, cattle' and 
 pedlary. 
 
 Thorncomb. — Easter Tues- 
 day, cattle. 
 
 Tiverton. — Second Tues- 
 day after Trinity Sun-
 
 BANKING HOUSES. 
 
 37 
 
 day, September 29, 
 cattle. 
 
 Torruigtun. May 4, 
 
 July 5, Oct. 10, cattle. 
 
 Totness. — Easter-Tues- 
 day, May 12, July 2.5, 
 October 24, cattle, 
 sheep, and horses. 
 
 Uffcubne. — Wednesday 
 before Good-Friday, 
 June 29, second Wed- 
 nesday in September, 
 
 cattle and woollen 
 clotli. 
 
 Underiiood — July 5, cat- 
 tle. 
 
 XJp-Ottery.— March 17, 
 October 24, cattle, 
 sheep, and toys. 
 
 Whimple. — Monday be- 
 fore Michaelmas, cattle. 
 
 Wither id i:e. — Wednesday 
 before April 16, June 
 24, cattle. 
 
 BANKING HOUSES. 
 
 Name and Place. 
 Barnstaple Bank 
 
 Do. North Devon 
 
 Bank 
 Bideford Bank 
 
 Bideford Com- 
 mercial Bank 
 
 Bideford Com- 
 mercial Bank 
 
 Brixham Bank 
 
 Collumpton Bank 
 
 Dartmouth Bank 
 
 Dartmouth Gene- 
 ral Bank 
 Eieter Bank 
 
 Do. City Bank 
 
 Do. General Bank 
 
 Finn. 
 CutclifFe, Drake, 
 
 and Co. 
 Bury, Pyke, and 
 
 Co. 
 Ley, Willcock, & 
 
 Co. 
 Hamlyn & Chan- 
 ter' 
 Thomas Burnard 
 
 and Co. 
 Hine, Holdswor- 
 
 thy,&Pomeroy, 
 
 jun. 
 Skinner, Brown, 
 
 and Co. 
 Robt. Harris and 
 
 Co. 
 Hine and Holds- 
 worth 
 Sanders, Sons, & 
 
 Co. 
 Milford, Nation, 
 
 and Co. 
 Williams, Cross, 
 
 Sparkes, and 
 
 Sparkes 
 E 
 
 On whom they draw, 
 Sir James Esdaile 
 
 and Co. 
 Barclay and Co. 
 
 Sir James Esdaile 
 
 and Co. 
 Jones, Lloyd, and 
 
 Co. 
 Jones, Lloyd, and 
 
 Co. 
 f rys & Chapmau. 
 
 Frys & Chapman. 
 
 Brown, Lang. 
 
 horn, & Co. 
 Frys & Chapman. 
 
 Barclays, Tritton, 
 
 and Co. 
 Robarts, Curtis, 
 
 and Co. 
 Hankey and Co.
 
 88 
 
 Name and Place. 
 Exeter Devon 
 
 County Bank 
 Honiton Bank 
 
 Honiton, East 
 
 Devon Bank 
 Ilfracomb 
 Kingsbridge Bank 
 
 Plymouth Bank 
 
 Do. Naval Bank 
 Plymouth - Dock 
 
 Bank 
 Do. Naval and 
 
 Commercial 
 
 Bank 
 Plymouth - Dock 
 
 General Bank 
 
 Telgnmouth 
 
 South Devon 
 
 Bank 
 Tiverton Bank 
 
 Tavistock Bank 
 
 Torrington, Tor- 
 ridge Bank 
 
 Totness Bank 
 
 Totness General 
 Bank. 
 
 LAN KING UOUSES 
 
 Firm. 
 Russell, Brooke, 
 
 and Co. 
 Flood, Lott, and 
 
 Co. 
 Smith, Brooke, & 
 
 Co. 
 Lee and Lock 
 Prideaux, Square, 
 
 Kingston, and 
 
 Prideaux 
 Elfords, Herberts, 
 
 and Co. 
 Harris and Co 
 St. Aubyn and Co 
 
 Glencross and Co. 
 
 Thos. Husband, & 
 Thos. Husband, 
 jun. 
 
 Langmead, Hol- 
 land, & Jordan 
 
 Dunsford, Bame, 
 and Boase 
 
 GiU, Rundle, and 
 Co. 
 
 Cooke, Kingdon, 
 Slade, Love- 
 baud, & Cooke 
 
 Wise, Farwell, & 
 Co. 
 
 Prideaux, Bentall, 
 and Farwell 
 
 On whom they draw. 
 Curries and Co. 
 
 Lubbock and Co. 
 
 Hammersley&Co. 
 
 Glynn and Co, 
 Masterman & Co. 
 
 Hoare, Hill, and 
 
 Co. 
 Lubbock and Co. 
 Sir John Perring 
 
 and Co. 
 Lubbock and Co. 
 
 Sir John Perring 
 and Co. 
 
 Masterman, Pe- 
 ters, and Co. 
 
 Sir John Lubbock. 
 
 Hoare and Co. 
 
 Jones, Lloyd, and 
 Co. 
 
 Sir P. Pole. 
 
 Sir P. Pole.
 
 ( 39 ) 
 
 TITLRS CONFERRED BY THE COUNTY. 
 
 This gives the title of Duke and Earl to theCaven- 
 dishes; — the city of Exeter, thoe^e of Marquis and 
 Earl to the Cecils ; — Plymouth, that of Earl to the 
 family of Windsor Hickman ; — Tavistock, that of 
 Marquis to the Russells ; — Dartmouth, those of Earl 
 and Baron to the Legges; — Ashburton, that of Baron 
 to the Dunnings; — Torrington, that of Viscount to 
 the Bings; — Sidmouth, the same to the Addingtons; 
 — and Chudleigh, the same to the ClitYurds; — Mount 
 Edgecurabe, those of Earl, Viscount, and Baron to 
 the Edgecumbe family, ike. &ic. — Borrinodon, that of 
 the latter to the Parkers, &c. ike. 
 
 Quarter Sessions for the County of Devon, 
 Are held at the city of Exeter, as follo^\'s : 
 
 The first week after Epiphany; the first week after 
 the close of Easter; the first week after the transla- 
 tion of Thomas a Becket, or July 7; and the first 
 week after October 11th. 
 
 E2
 
 GENERALr DESCRIPTION OF 
 
 THE COUNTY OF DEVON. 
 
 BOUNDARIES; SITUATION, AXD EXTFNT. 
 
 nPHE maritime county of Devon is bounded by the 
 Bristol Channel on the west and north-west; on 
 the west by the river Taraar, and a small rivulet 
 called Marsland-water ; on the south and south-east 
 by the British Channel; and by the counties of Dor- 
 set and Somerset on the east and south-east. Devon 
 is in its greatest length 69 miles, and its greatest 
 breadth is 64 miles, containing about 1,600,000 acres, 
 33 hundreds, 349 parishes, 37 market-towns, 71,486 
 houses, and 439,040 inhabitants. The whole of 
 Devonshire is in the diocese of Exeter and Western 
 Circuit ; it sends 26 representatives to Parliament, 
 viz. two for the county, and two for each of the fol- 
 lowing places: Exeter, Totness, Plymouth, Oak- 
 hampton, Barnstaple, Plympton, Honiton, Tavistock, 
 Ashburton, Dartmouth, Bere-Alston, and Tiverton. 
 
 NAME. 
 
 ** The hithermost part of the county of the Dan- 
 monii is now commonly called Devonshire ; by the 
 Cornish Britons, Deunon; by the Welsh, Deufney, 
 the deep vallies, because the lower parts of it are 
 chiefly inhabited; by the Saxons, Deuonschire, 
 whence comes the Latin name, Devona, and the com- 
 mon contraction, Denshire, and not from the Danes, 
 as the learned Rowe has remarked.^ — Camden. 
 
 CLIMATE, 
 
 That of Devonshire is remarkably mild, particularly 
 the southern part, where vegetation suffers very little 
 interruption during the winter season. It is only on 
 the northern coast and in the north-east corner of the 
 county, where any thing like the severity of winter is 
 occasionally felt. On the highest parts of Dartmoor,
 
 SOIL. 41 
 
 the air, though bleak and piercing, is invigorating 
 and salubrious. Even in this elevated region, the 
 snow seldom lajs any length of time. In tact, such 
 is the mildness of the climate of the south of Devon 
 and Cornwall, that medical men recommend it to 
 their consumptive patients; and many constitutions 
 broken by a long residence in either of tlie Indies, 
 are often preserved, and restored here. Another 
 proof of the mildness of this part of the country, is 
 that the Dutch broad-leaved flowering myrtle, as 
 well as the more delicate and narrow-leaved sorts, 
 constantly flourish in the open air, and frequently 
 form a part of the garden hedges. 
 
 SOIL. 
 
 The heights of this in many parts, especially about 
 Dartmoor, swell into mountains, the altitude of its 
 eminences being from 1500 to 1800 feet. " On ap- 
 proacliing this tract from the south and south-east, the 
 eye is bewildered by an extensive waste, exhibiting 
 gigantic tors, large surfaces covered with masses of 
 scattered granite and immense rocks, which seem to 
 have been precipitately thrown into the vallies, as if 
 torn piecemeal by the raging elements. The soils, 
 strictly speaking, are divided into four sorts, but 
 which are most judiciously described by Mr. Charles 
 Vancouver, in his General View of tub Agricul- 
 ture OF THE County of Devon: the first, according 
 to Risdon, standeth most in white chalk, on the east 
 side of the county; the second, is the red land, sur- 
 rounding Exeter, and extending east and west of it ; 
 the third, is the peat soil, principally about Dart- 
 moor; the fourth, which pervades the greatest part 
 of the county, though varied in its appearance by 
 casual mixtures, is what has lately obtained the name 
 oi dun land riveks. But the soil most prevalent, 
 is remarkable in two circumstances; "its rapid 
 spontaneous production of grass, when under good 
 management, and its total want of calcareous prin- 
 ciple." The general character of the mineralogy 
 of this county, is that of an elevated tract of granite, 
 E3
 
 4)2 RIVERS. 
 
 running from north to south, and passing into or 
 under a super-stratura of primitive schistus, on its 
 western side, and of alluvial sand-stone and chalk on 
 the eastern limits. The mineral productions are 
 Tik; some lodes of Copper, Iron, Zinc, Antimony, 
 Manganese, Wolfram, Arsenic, and Cobalt. 
 
 RIVERS. 
 
 The principal rivers in this county are the Exe, 
 the Torridge, the Taw, the Oke, the Dart, the Plym, 
 the Otter, and the Axe. The Tainar is also consi- 
 dered as belonging to Devonshire. 
 
 The Isk of the Britons, the Isca of the Romans, 
 and tlie Ex, or Exe, of the Saxons and of the mo- 
 derns, rises in Exmoor, in Somersetshire, within 
 three miles of the Severn Sea, and, after being joined 
 by several streams, it pursues its course into Devon- 
 shire, passing Tiverton, where there is a stone bridge 
 over the river. In its progress towards Exeter, it re- 
 ceives the waters of the Loman, the Greedy from Cre- 
 diton, commonly called Kirton, and the Culm, or 
 Columbe, from Collumpton and Bradninch. From 
 Exeter the river flows through a fine range of meadows 
 to Topsham ; here it meets the tide, and increasing 
 considerably in capacity, becomes navigable for 
 vessels of several hundred tons burthen. It at length 
 falls into the British Channel at Exmouth, after a 
 course from its source of nearly sixty miles. 
 
 About 16 miles above Saltash the Tamar receives 
 the water of the Lyd, a small river rising a few miles 
 above Lidford in Devonshire. This little river is par- 
 ticularly remarkable for its course through the midst 
 of rocks and over prodigious precipices. At Lidford- 
 bridge, which is nearly level with the road, the sur- 
 face of the water is almost eighty feet perpendicular 
 below it, so that it can hardly be seen or heard from 
 above. 
 
 About a mile below Lidford-bridge there is a cata- 
 ract, or fall of water, of more than 100 feet in height. 
 The water passes a mill at some distance, and, after 
 a course upon a descent of near 100 feet from the
 
 RIVERS. 43 
 
 level of tVie mill, it arrives at the brink of the preci- 
 pice, from whence it falls in a beautiful manner on 
 a projecting part of the cliff, by which it is divided, 
 and falls from thence in a wider cataract to the bot- 
 tom; when striking the bottom with great violence, 
 acquired by so prodigious a fall, it forms a deep ba- 
 son covered with foam, in the ground ; thence it runs 
 in an easy current to the river Lyd. The Torridge 
 and Tamar have their source from the parish of Well- 
 cumb. 
 
 The source of the Torridge is so near that of 
 the Tamar, in the northern part of Cornwall, on 
 the summit of a high moor, that its springs are 
 supposed to be the same, and the difference of their 
 course to rise from some trilling variation in the 
 height of the ground near the place where they 
 issue. 
 
 This river becomes navigable at Wear-GifTord, 
 about three miles from Bideford, and in its progress 
 from thence unites with the Taw, and enters the 
 Bristol Channel at Barnstaple Bay. 
 
 The Taw rises in Dartmoor, and running north- 
 ward towards Chumleigh, from thence it winds in 
 a westerly direction towards Barnstaple, receiving 
 in its coui-se the waters of the Moule and several 
 other small streams. About five miles below, it 
 falls into the Torridge, as we have before men- 
 tioned. 
 
 The river Dart has also its source in the moun- 
 tainous region of Dartmoor, and, according to some 
 writers, derives its name from the velocity of its 
 current, and it certainly appears extremely appro- 
 priate. 
 
 " Rapidity is its first characteristic, and this quality 
 it retains long after it leaves those mountains which 
 enclose its source, as it descends into the rich plains 
 of the southern part of Devonshire. A little to the 
 west of Ashburton it forms a charming valley, and 
 flows in placid beauty beneath the high hill which is 
 distinguished by the castle and church of Tutness.
 
 44 RIVERS. 
 
 Soon after, the Dart receiving the tide, rolls in a 
 majestic stream between bold hills, covered with cul- 
 tivation, woods, and villages, disclosing new beauties 
 at every curve, and presenting a grand object to the 
 adjacent country, varied perpetually both in its form 
 and attendant features. The eminences which en- 
 close the channel of the Dart, become at last almost 
 mountainous, forming on the west a barrier to the 
 southern peninsula of Devonshire, and on the east to 
 the road of Torbay; while the river, winding between 
 these rocky bases, passes the very striking position 
 occupied by the hamlet of Kingswear on its eastern 
 bank, and the singularly irregular town of Dartmouth 
 on its western, the whitened fronts of whose houses, 
 built in stages over each other, and beautifully inter- 
 spersed with rock and wood, form a curious assem- 
 blage of interesting oljects. The ivyed walls of 
 Dartmouth-castle, with a rustic spire starting out 
 from beneath a bold rocky hill, close the prospect 
 with great mnjesty, and strongly mark the proud exit 
 of the Dart towards the British Channel." — Skrineh 
 History of Rivers. 
 
 The Plym also rises in Dartmoor, in the parish of 
 Lidford, the whole forest being in that parish, and, 
 after a course of about seven miles, is joined by a 
 small stream near Plympion, wliere it becomes navi- 
 gable for small vessels, and two miles below, falls into 
 Plymouth Sound, a little below Plymouth. 
 
 The Teign rises among the moors on the eastern 
 side of the forest of Dartmoor, near Gidleigh, com- 
 mencing with two small springs. JMr. Polwhele, in his 
 history of this county, describes this river as " often 
 pent up in deep and narrow vallies, whence the sound 
 of its waters may be heard at a considerable distance : 
 it is increased at every turn, by brooks descending 
 from those coombs which terminate the heights of 
 Haldon, and the downs of Bradford and Hennock. 
 The country through which it passes j^ full of rocks 
 till it approaches Bovey Tracy, when it glides over a 
 flat marshy ground, and, rolling under Teign-bridge,
 
 CANALS. 45 
 
 spreads itself into a broader sliallow channel, and 
 tlius runs on without interruption to the sea. When 
 swelled with rains, its colour is almost black; at other 
 times brown." 
 
 The Tavy rises in Dartmoor, and after passing the 
 little villages of Peter Tavy and Mary Tavy, winds 
 throu(i,h a deep valley to Tavistock. The ruins of 
 the ahl)ey upon the banks of this river, with the con- 
 tic;uous scenery, form a very romantic view. At 
 some distance from Tamerton Foliot, the Tavy falls 
 into the river Tamar. 
 
 The Yealm, the Arme, and the Aven, also take 
 their rise in Dartmoor. The Otter and the Sid 
 enter the county from the borders of Somersetshire; 
 the Axe runs out of Dorsetshire; and all of them 
 flow into the British Channel. 
 
 The Lyn, which rises in the forest of Exmoor, is 
 a small but very rapid river, pursuing its impetuous 
 course over rocks of immense size, and at length 
 rushes into the Bristol Channel, 
 
 CANALS. 
 
 The canal from the quay at Exeter, to Cooley- 
 hridge, proceeds from the latter point, east of the 
 church, through the parish of New ton St. Cyres, and 
 terminates at the Four Mills in Crcditon parish. 
 
 The canal from Tavistock to the Tamar, at the 
 distance of two miles and a half from the former 
 place, strikes the north side of Moorwall Down. Its 
 course is then south and a little w estw ardly ; it is cut 
 eight feet deep, and six wide, having a depth of 
 three feet three inches in water, to answer the pur- 
 pose of navigating boats 24 feet in length, but not to 
 exceed the burthen of two tons each. 
 
 The canal at Teigngrace not only facilitates the 
 exportation of pipe-clay, but supplies water for irri- 
 gating the adjoining grounds, and which has raised 
 their value from 500/. to 1500/. per annum. 
 
 The Crediton, the Exeter, and the Tavistock 
 canals are now completed. The Tamar canal, which
 
 46 FISH AND FISHERIES. 
 
 only skirts the western edge of the eoiuitv, was 
 begun nearly nineteen years since. 
 
 CIVIL AND ECCLESIASTICAL DIVISIONS. 
 
 This county is divided into thirty-tln-ee iiundreds, 
 containing one city, Exeter; thirty-seven market- 
 towns, 1733 villages, and a population, according to 
 the returns under the late act, of 383,308. Devon- 
 shire is in the province of Canterbury and diocese of 
 Exeter, and has 394 parishes. 
 
 FISH AND FISHERIES. 
 
 The rivers of Devonshire abound with fish so much, 
 that besides supplying home consumption, great quan- 
 tities are taken for the London markets. The rivers 
 Tavy and Tamar produce considerable revenues to 
 their proprietors from their salmon. The Otter is 
 famous for its trout and salmon peel or pail. The 
 oyster-beds at Starcross, Topsham, and Lympstone, 
 are extremely productive. The salmon fishery of the 
 Tavy is attached to the lands of Buckland-place, and 
 the weir is a work of considerable magnitude and 
 expence; but the principal part of the produce of 
 this fishery is taken by nets. 
 
 The river Tavy, for near a mile below the weir, is 
 broken into rapids and pools, some of them very 
 deep; seven or eight of these are adapted to the sean 
 or draw-net, drawn once or twice a day by four men, 
 with horses to carry the net, and with dogs to convey 
 the end of the rope across the water, where it is too 
 deep or inconvenient to be forded. 
 
 In the Tavy, the fishing season commences in the 
 middle or latter end of February ; but on the Tamar, 
 not till several weeks afterwards, and closes in Octo- 
 ber or November, when the weir is thrown open, 
 and the fish are suffered to go up to spawn. 
 
 The herring-fishery, formerly earned on to a con- 
 siderable extent, is in a great measure lost, as the 
 herrings have unaccountably forsaken the shores of 
 Devon; a circumstance much to be lamented, being 
 .such a one as is entirely out of the reach of human 
 wisdom to supply. A few, however^ still frequent
 
 FJSH AND PISULRIES. 4f 
 
 the coast in the fall of the year, but are very small, 
 both in size and quantity. Pilchards also still fre- 
 quent the southern coasts of Devon, Dorset, and 
 Cornwall. 
 
 The weir-house, or trap, lor catching the salmon, 
 is constructed on the pnnciple of the vermin-trap, 
 whose entrance is outwardly large, but contracted 
 inwardly, so as to elude or prevent the escape of the 
 animal which has been taken in it. It is remarkable, 
 however, with respect to salmon, that although the 
 entrance is by no means so narrow as to prevent even 
 tlie largest from returning, it is believed that there is 
 no instance of those which have once entered quitting 
 their confinement, though they may have remained 
 in it several days. A circumstance, perhaps, which 
 can only be accounted for in the natural propensity, 
 or instinct, which directs them against the stream, 
 and will not suffer them to give up any advantage 
 which they may have gained ; the ascent into the 
 trap being an effort of difficulty, in this case perhaps 
 too great. 
 
 On the higher side of the trap, (which is twelve or 
 fifteen feet square on the inside), opposite to the en- 
 trance, is an opening or sluice in the stone-work, or 
 rather the rock, as a passage for the water. This 
 opening has two lifting flood-gates, the one close, 
 to shut out occasionally the whole of the water, the 
 other a grate, to suffer the water to pass, and at the 
 same time to prevent fish of any considerable size 
 from escaping. When the trap is set, the close gate 
 is drawn up with an iron crow, thus suffering the 
 water to pass through the house. On the contrar)^, 
 to take the fish which have entered, the close gate is 
 let down, and the trap is presently left in a manner dry. 
 
 It is observable, that the narrowed entrance of the 
 trap is judiciously placed somewhat above the floor, 
 so that before the salmon are seriously alarmed by 
 the fall of the water, it has sunk below the mouth of 
 the trap, and their retreat the more eftectually cut 
 off; for by following the %vatcr near the floor, they
 
 48 AGRICULTURE. 
 
 are led a\Yay beneath the tunnel, which like the open 
 flood-gate, &c. is made of strong wooden bars, open 
 enough to permit the passage of the water, but not 
 the fish. The top or covering of the trap is a floor 
 of planks, nearly level with the top of the wear; on 
 the lower side of which, the trap is of course 
 situated. 
 
 AGRICULTURE. 
 
 That of Devonshire, with its mines and other pro- 
 ductions, this county being next in size to Yorkshire, 
 renders it one of the most valuable in England. So 
 much at least may be inferred from Vancouver and 
 other agriculturists. The external aspect of this 
 county is however extremely varied and irregular; 
 and the heights in many parts, but particularly in 
 Dartmoor and its vicinity, swell into mountains, the 
 iUtitudes of the principal eminences being from 1500 
 to 1300 feet. Cultivation is promoted and encou- 
 raged by the Devonshire Agricultural Society, first 
 established in 1791; and from its perfection, the 
 district called the South Ilams is frequently termed 
 the garden of Devonshire. The area of this district, 
 hicluding the rich valley of the Dart, which extends 
 towards Ashburton, contains nearly 250 square miles. 
 This tract is strikingly diversified by bold swells, 
 winding coombs, and fine vales; and in many pajts, 
 particularly towards the north, the scenery is pictu- 
 resque and highly romantic. The upper grounds of 
 the South Hams are appropriated alternately to pas- 
 ture and to tillage ; the lower grounds are principally 
 cultivated as meadows. All the lands are in a state of 
 permanent enclosure; the fences are chiefly high 
 mounds, surmounted by coppice-wood, which affords 
 a sufficient supply of fuel, and a surplus of poles, 
 cord, wood, faggots, and oak-bark for sale. 
 
 An annual meeting of the South Devonshire Agri- 
 cultural Society has long been held alternately at 
 Totness and Kingsbridge ; and that for the North of 
 Devon, at Barnstaple.
 
 MANURES. 49 
 
 WASTE LANDS. 
 
 The principal of these lie in and about the forest 
 of Dartmoor, and have occupied the greate.st portion 
 of the western district of the county, extending from 
 the Vale of Exeter, nearly to the banks of theTamar, 
 including between two and three hundred acres of 
 open and uncultivated lands. Of tliese, Dartmoor 
 alone, before the late enclosure, comprised many 
 thousand acres. These extensive tracts aHTord little 
 more than a scanty pasturage for a few thousand 
 sheep and cattle. The right of depasture belongs to 
 difterent interests; the forest itself being (he property 
 of the Prince af Wales, as a parcel of the Duchy of 
 Cornwall ; but the outskirts and parts of the hills are 
 appurtenances to the surrounding manors, many of 
 which have likewise a prescriptive right of common 
 on the forest, on account of an inconsiderable sum 
 paid annually to the Duchy. In the higher parts of 
 the moor, to the north and west, arc vast tracts of 
 wet swampy ground, exceeding dangerous to the 
 pasturing cattle, though they supply the neighbouring 
 inhabitants with peat for fuel. Many of the peat- 
 bogs are of great deptii, and in dry summers are 
 covered with a strong succulent grass. 
 
 MANURES. 
 
 The principal manures employed in this county 
 are lime, sea-sand, and dung. In the southern part 
 of the Hams, being at a considerable distance from 
 lime, they have long been in the habit of making 
 use of sea-sand, as a substitute for it, in the propor- 
 tion of one or two hundred seams per acre, (each 
 seam contains two bushels). This they mixed with 
 earth, the scrapings of the lanes, mud from ponds, 
 and bottoms of the ditches, but especially with rotten 
 dung, when it could be procured. Most of this, on 
 account of the country being hilly, was cairied on 
 horses' backs, till carts and other vehicles equally 
 convenient were brought into more general use.
 
 •50 FARMS AND FARMERS. 
 
 MANSIONS, FARM-HOUSES, &C. 
 
 The ruinated state of the former in this county h 
 much lamented, as it is not unfrequent to see two or 
 three apartments in some of these, propped up as the 
 residence of the hind, or baiUtf of the estate; and at 
 the same time the elegance, the plan, and com- 
 forts of the modern buildings, are in many instances 
 less estimable than in the ancient and hospitable 
 manor-houses. 
 
 In some parts the farm-houses are situated just 
 above ihe reach of the autumnal and winter floods, 
 and in others they are frequently found grouped 
 together in villages, and are sometimes constructed 
 of cob and stone-work. This stone, which is soft 
 and easily worked when first taken from the quarry, 
 becomes hard and durable when exposed to the air, 
 and is very neat in its appearance. The repairs of 
 walls, floors, roofs, and doors, are usually done by 
 the landlord ; and all others, except the finding of 
 stuff for gates, rails, and posts, are performed by 
 the tenant. 
 
 FARMS AND FARMERS. 
 
 With regard to the size of farms in general, the 
 smaller occupants most commonly reside near the 
 borders of Dartmoor, and the larger hold rich 
 tracts of feeding and arable land in the country 
 below. 
 
 Many of the minor order that are called farmers, 
 derive a considerable part of their subsistence from 
 digging, and curing peat fuel, upon Dartmoor, and 
 the commons abutting upon that forest, and packing 
 it to the large towns in the South Haras. Another 
 description of farmers, or rather jobbers, are con- 
 tinually upon the watch, Fansacking the country for 
 every species of farming stock, whether store, or in a 
 fed condition. The farms of these people are often 
 covered with sheep, hogs, and cattle, collected in 
 this manner ; and when Plymouth or Exeter do not 
 afford a satisfactory market, they proceed towards
 
 LEASF.5, kc. 51 
 
 Taunton with their droves, and keep moving eastward 
 till they find a market that ulli suit them. This 
 being accomplished, they return home, and resume 
 their former pursuits. The owners of the pastures 
 about Exmoor, in some degree resemble this descrip- 
 tion ; they are said to work equally hard with the 
 common labourers, anfl live little, if at all better, 
 than the most provident of that class. 
 LEASES, See. 
 With very few exceptions, the landed property in 
 this county seems very inuch divided. A large por- 
 tion of it is in the hands of a respectable yeomanry, 
 and other estates belonging to the sees of Exeter, 
 York, and Salisbury, the Dean and Chapter of 
 Windsor, the universities, and the Duchy of Corn- 
 wall, forming no inconsiderable part of the whole 
 county. Here too the proprietor is commonly advised 
 to grant those life-hold tenures so frequently heard of 
 in Devonshire and in Wales, and which are deemed 
 more injurious than is generally apprehended ; but 
 fortunately this species of tenure is become much 
 lessened within the last twenty-five years. The pro- 
 prietors of the fee-simple used to lease their estates 
 generally for three lives, nominated by the purchaser; 
 or for ninety-nine years, if a nominee survive that 
 term; a circumstance that has happened, reserving, 
 however, a small annual rent. As these lives drop, 
 new ones were generally put in, on payment of an 
 adequate sum. The usual manner of letting farms 
 and estates here, is by what is called a survey or 
 auction. These are often held at a public-house, 
 where the steward has every thing in readiness to 
 stimulate and encourage the bidding ; which closed, 
 the landlord, through his steward, names his price, 
 which is offered to the highest bidder downwards, to 
 the last person who would be approved. Should no 
 one accept it, the company disperses, and the farm 
 is disposed of by private contract, no preference 
 being given no the old tenant or his family, whose 
 principal object during the latter period of the term, 
 F2
 
 52 TITHES. 
 
 is usually to delapidate, pare, and burn, and by 
 every method which can be devised, despoil the farm. 
 On many occasions a per centage is allowed to the 
 steward, for his address in procuring a high bidding 
 at this Survey or auction. There are, however, 
 several covenants where these leases do not prevail, 
 which are sold by the same mode for a term ot 
 fourteen or twenty-one years ; determinable every 
 seven years, on a twelvemonth's notice by either 
 party. What is now called a term of fourteen years 
 absolute, is taking place of the lifehold tenures ; and 
 the covenants of the former require, that CO mea- 
 sures of lime, or 200 horse-loads of sea-sand, sea- 
 weed, Plymouth, Exeter, or other rich, rotten dung, 
 shall be applied per acre, and not to have more than 
 two white straw crops in succession; besides being 
 restrained from carrying either hay or straw to mar- 
 ket without returning with a corresponding quantity 
 of dung. Many of the farms are very small, varying 
 from 20/. per annum to 700/. and upwards. 
 
 TITHES. 
 
 The church property, consisting of tithes and 
 demesnes belonging chiefly to the see of Exeter, are 
 frequently held in perpetuity by the nobility and 
 gentry, renewable with certain or arbitrary fines. 
 These are justly called valuable possessions, though 
 an indulgence is sometimes given, and formerly went 
 to a greater length, enabling the widow of the last 
 surviving tenant to the church lands in possession, to 
 hold over the estate so long as she remained unmar- 
 ried. However, as intrigues and a loose and disre- 
 putable attachment were too frequently the result, 
 great care is now taken by the bishop to prevent 
 them. 
 
 The general commutation taken by the Clergy here 
 for great and small tithes, is about two shillings and 
 sixpence in the pound, on the reserved rent, includ- 
 ing the parochial disbursements ; or about three shil- 
 lings in the pound on the reserved rent alone. When 
 "ihe great and small tithes are separate, the rector is
 
 COTTAGE?. 5S 
 
 generally contented with two shillings in the pound, 
 and for the vicarial tithes not covered by a modus, a 
 just and reasonable coinrnutHtion is paid. 
 
 The general commutation for great and small tithes, 
 is two shillings and sixpence, two shillings and nine- 
 pence, and three shillings in the pound, including 
 the valuation of the reserved rent and parochial dis- 
 bursements. In the neighbourhood of Dartington, 
 the commutation is regulated at two shillings and 
 sixpence in the pound rent, when the average price 
 of wheat is below nine shillings per bushel, and three 
 shillings in the pound when above that average. 
 
 COTTAGES. 
 
 These, or rather the oldest of them, are generally 
 built of stone, and considering that this article is by 
 no means difficult to procure, it was hoped this 
 would have caused a discontinuance of the use of mud- 
 walls, the cob-buildings of which have been remarked 
 as nearly as numerous as tliose once used by the 
 Belga, who were the first to introduce this dull, 
 heavy, and deforming material ; and when these are 
 not rough-cast, or white-washed, their appearance at 
 a distance resembles a peat-field ; from both of which 
 smoke may be sometimes seen to issue. However, 
 there are now very comfortable cottages, with a fire- 
 place and oven in the principal room, about fourteen 
 feet square ; two small rooms behind the larger, one 
 for fuel and provisions; the upper story divided into 
 two apartments, for the parents and their children. 
 Such cottages are now built in this county, and de- 
 cently finished for less than 80/. The Rev. Mr. Lux- 
 more', Lord ClitTord, Lord Rolie, and several other 
 distinguished proprietors, have exerted themselves 
 very laudably in providing decent habitations for the 
 labouring poor. From cottages attached to farms, 
 Mr. Vancouver has observed, the most substantial 
 benefits have resulted. For these, with a garden, the 
 compensation is various, but is averaged short of 40s. 
 per annum; but the rent of the cottage, with a small 
 F3
 
 54 ENCLOSING. 
 
 patch for pot-herbs only, may be taken at about 30*. 
 per annum. 
 
 LABOUR AND LABOURERS. 
 
 The wages of the out-door labourer is generally 
 seven shiUings per week, winter and summer, and 
 from a quart to three pints of drink daily. Even in 
 hay-time and harvest these wages are not increased, 
 though additional exertions at those seasons are amply 
 compensated by board, and treatings with ale and 
 cider. During the war, the addition to these wages 
 was the standing supply of wheat at six shillings, and 
 barley at three shillings per bushel. A portion of 
 land is also assigned by the farmer to each peasant 
 family for growing potatoes, which enables some of 
 these to keep a pig. Among the small farmers, the 
 men are often content to receive 3s. 6d. per week and 
 their board. It is also no unusual practice in the 
 northern and western part of the county for a man to 
 work at harvesting for one day, only for his drink and 
 board, upon condition that he shall be invited to the 
 harvest frolic at the farmer's house, which continues 
 for some days together. 
 
 Near large trading towns the price of labour has 
 occasionally risen with the demand. But the hours 
 of work and stinted labour have long been customary 
 here : the former are from seven to twelve, and from 
 one to between five and six. Even in summer, when 
 at day-work, the labourer may be seen on his way 
 home with his tools at his back : this however is not 
 the result of idleness, but of custom; as having per- 
 formed his stint, the labourer is no longer detained. 
 
 ENCLOSING. 
 
 Instances are very rare of enclosures being made 
 in some districts : in others, they have been altoge- 
 ther as large: for instance, adjoining Black-down 
 on the west, in the parish of Loddiswell, about 70 
 acres of moorland have been enclosed ; and amongst 
 others, more considerable, about 1200 acres were 
 enclosed by the late General Simcoe, of Black-down 
 hills.
 
 IMPLF.ME^-TS. 55 
 
 GARDENS AND ORCHARDS. 
 
 It is presumed, that kitchen gardens are in no part 
 of England laid out on a more extensive scale than 
 in tlie countv of Devon ; and next to considerable 
 quantities of well-flavoured wall-fruit, the culinary 
 vegetables can no where be surpassed for general 
 excellence. The gardens of the farmers and pea- 
 santry, generally afford large quantities of leeks, so 
 raucli in use among them; and these, with pot-herbs, 
 other kitchen, and a few ornamental plants and 
 flowers, wholly occupy these gardens, whilst pota- 
 toes are supplied from larger portions of ground in 
 the fields. Cider being the common beverage of the 
 inhabitants, the cultivation of orchards is of course 
 a material consideration ; however the number of 
 orchards in some parts differs materially from others. 
 
 IMPLEMENTS. 
 
 The common Devonshire plough made by a hedge- 
 row carpenter, seldom exceeding 15s. cost, irons and 
 all, is much used, and its performance is much supe- 
 rior to what may be expected from the rude appear- 
 ance it makes, either at work or lying upon the ground. 
 
 The paring-plougli is also used here, to supply the 
 use of the breast-plough, or paring-shovel ; as is also 
 the turn-wrest, one-way furrow, or double-sole plough ; 
 and Lord Clifford bas introduced the double and sin- 
 gle Warwickshire ploughs : the Norfolk wheel-plough 
 is also used. Harrows commonly used here, consist 
 of a very heavy drag, usually drawn by four or six 
 oxen; and a lighter kind of harrow, sometimes in one 
 piece, but more commonly divided in the middle, and 
 connected with links. Drill-machines are also at- 
 tached to the ploughs by various contrivances. Thrash- 
 ing-machines made by Baker of Exeter, are very pre- 
 valent, and cost about forty guineas each ; and scari- 
 fiers, scufflers, shims, and broad shares, of various 
 constructions, called by the general name of tormen" 
 torsy are much in use here. 
 
 ROADS AND PACK-HORSES. 
 
 These, upon the whole, are not in the first order
 
 56 HORSES, MULES, fitc, 
 
 of excellence. The parish roads are extremely va- . 
 rious : the fault of the whole seems to result from the 
 black gravel, &c. out of which they are made, which 
 from its excessive coarseness, is soon broken into so 
 many holes, as much to endanger the knees of the 
 horse, and the neck of the rider; but whilst the pa- 
 rish roads are very indifferent, the public roads round 
 Exeter, Axminster, Honiton, and many other large 
 towns in the county, cannot be surpassed by any in 
 England. 
 
 Another inconvenience arises from the height of 
 some of the hedge-banks, on each side of the roads, 
 often covered with a rank growth of coppice-wood, 
 which uniting and interlocking with each other over- 
 head, su2gests the idea ofexploring a labyrinth, rather 
 than that of passing through a much frequented coun- 
 try. But the most unpleasant sensations result from the 
 traveller's meeting with, or being overtaken by a gang 
 of pack-horses. The rapidity with which these ani- 
 mals descend the hills, when not loaded, and the 
 utter impossibility of passing loaded ones, enforce 
 the utmost caution in keeping out of the way of the 
 one, and exertion in keeping a-head of the other. A 
 cross- way fork in the road, or gateway, is eagerly 
 looked for, as a retiring spot to the traveller, until 
 the pursuing squadron, or heavy-loaded brigade, may 
 have passed by. In these roads it is impossible to 
 form any idea of the surrounding country, as the size 
 and depth of the abutting fields are only to be seen 
 through a breach in the mound, over a style, or 
 through a gateway. 
 
 HORSES, MULES, &c. 
 
 Besides the pack and the larger cart-horses, a small 
 snug breed have been getting much in use, in differ- 
 ent parts of the county. 
 
 These are out to grass all summer, and are gene- 
 rally wintered upon very coarse hay. When the 
 day's work is over in summer, which is performed in 
 one journey of about eight or nine hours, they are 
 returned to the field; and in winter they are racked
 
 WAGGONS, CaKTS, dtc. is7 
 
 up as before mentioned. Uut in the horse estaLlish- 
 ment at Ughrook, the pleasurable and sporting 
 horses, as well as those devoted to the labours of the 
 fami, are under a very ditierent system; for large 
 quantities of tern bein^; aniiuaUy mown in the park, 
 and neatly stacked up tor use, the horses are kept 
 constantly littered, winter and summer, with a bed 
 of this fern or straw. In sununer, tares, clover, or 
 grass mown in the plantations, are given them, with 
 regular stated feeds of dry meat, consisting of the 
 chaff of corn, mixed with the chatf of wheat or bar- 
 ley, or cut hay and straw; an example happily fol- 
 lowed by Lord ClitTord's tenants in general, where 
 precept alone would have failed. The largest breeds 
 of horses are generally found in the less hilly parts of 
 this county. In the south and western parts, several 
 mules and asses are constantly employed in packing 
 sand, from the sea-side to the distance of several 
 miles in the interior. Both the ass and the mule are 
 extremely hardy and active; and the latter much 
 more so than the horse. 
 
 URIDCES, 
 
 Not belonging to public roads, are generally kept 
 in very good repair by the different parishes; the 
 road-surveyor or way-warden of which, always takes 
 care that the bridges shall be sufficiently numerous 
 and safe, to ensure a convenient and ready passage 
 through the country. And this is indispensably ne- 
 cessary in a county abounding with narrow vallies, 
 and occasionally covered with a considerable depth 
 of water, which frequently rises and falls in the course 
 of a few hours. 
 
 WAGGONS, CARTS. &.C. 
 
 In the hilliest parts of the country, horses are used 
 for packing lime, dung, and all other purposes for 
 which wheel-carriages would be used upon a level 
 and unbroken surface. A number of two-horse carts, 
 cari-ying from 15 to 18 cwt. each, are in very com- 
 mon use, and one-horse carts, or butts, are also much 
 used ; they are made to tip up like tumbrils, and will
 
 68 MINERALS. 
 
 hold about five seams, or from 10 to 12 bushels each. 
 On low wheels, they are very convenient for loading 
 large stones, or any heavy article. Here are also 
 three-wheel butts, with barrow handles, drawn by 
 one horse, and holding, level full, from five to six 
 bushels. 
 
 Few vvinnowing-machines, excepting a common 
 whisk or fly, are used in tliis county ; and reaping- 
 hooks, with smooth edges, are generally preferred to 
 sickles with sawed ones. 
 
 WEIGHTS AND MEASURES. 
 
 A custom universally prevails, of heaping the fourth 
 peck in measuring a bushel of wheat; and as the 
 diameter of these peck-measures are very various, a 
 difference in the measure of almost every farmer is 
 the natural consequence. This evil, however, is 
 frequently corrected by the common usage of selling 
 wheat by the bag, or what is called two bushels. And 
 as this bag must weigh seven score, this grain is in 
 effect sold by weight in most markets of the county. 
 This is not so generally the case in respect to oats or 
 barley, in which the buyers depend more upon bulk 
 than specific weight. Butter, with few exceptions, 
 is 18 ounces to the pound, throughout the county. 
 
 MINERALS. 
 
 The mineral productions of this county are, culm, 
 copper, iron-stone, lead, limestone, ochre, umber, 
 grout-stone, &c. Between Appledore and Wear- 
 Gifford on the Torridge, 25 lime-kilns have been em- 
 ployed ; which, when at work, have yielded 100 
 conunon measures of lime every 24 hours. There 
 are two copper mines working in the vicinity of Ta- 
 vistock ; a lead mine on the west of the Tavy, in the 
 parish of Beer Ferris, and some old stream works 
 have been renewed in the parish of Plympton St. 
 Mary's. The copper mine at JBuckland, has also been 
 very successful. The fossil substance, called Bovey 
 eoal, lies in several parallel seams, at the distance of six 
 or eight feet from each other, to the depth of 60 feet. 
 This is found in the valley near the western branch
 
 MANUFACTURES, 69 
 
 of tlifi Bovey Tracey : it is sometimes taken up for 
 fuel, Tliis coal exhibits a series of gradations,, from 
 the most perfect ligneous texture, to a substance 
 nearly approaching the character of pit-coal ; and is 
 found diffused in very small pieces through all the 
 beds of potters'-clay in the parishes of 1'eigngrace 
 and King's Teignton. 
 
 Great quantities of granite or moor-stone are found 
 in different parts of the county, and particularly 
 about Dartmoor. 
 
 The ijiflammable substance called Bovej/ coal, is 
 found in the extensive level of Bovey Heathfield ; its 
 exterior parts, lying next to the clay, have a mixture 
 of earth, and are generally of a dark brown, or cho- 
 colate colour. Much of the finer clays are found 
 about Wear-Gifford, &c. Great quantities of pipe 
 and pottcrs'-ciay are annually sent from Teignmouth 
 to the potteries of London, Staffordshire, and other 
 parts. The potteries at Bideford use a red clay 
 brought from Fremington, and manufactured into 
 coarse ware. 
 
 Some beautiful quartz crystals are found in the 
 fissures of the rocks in Dartmoor; and good free- 
 stone in Salcombe, Branscombe, and Bere. The tiu 
 and copper mines were formerly more numerous than 
 at present, especially about Tavistock, &c. ; and the 
 lead mines at Combe Martin were very productive of 
 native silver: gold also was obtained, according to va- 
 rious grants, made in the reigns of Edward the Third 
 and Richard the Second. Much limestone is also 
 found near Chudleigh, Drew-Steignton, Sampson- 
 Peverell, &c. and between Appledore and Wear- 
 Gifford. Most beautiful marbles are procured at 
 Chudleigh and Babbicombe, not inferior to those of 
 Italy. 
 
 MANUFACTURES. 
 
 The late war inflicted a considerable blow upon 
 the manufactures of this county, in duroys, serges, 
 and other light cloths, and which it has by no means 
 recovered since the peace. Coarse beavers, however.
 
 60 SCENERY. 
 
 are still manufactured at Barnstaple, kc. as well as 
 druggets, and dyed scarlet, for the East Indies. The 
 Barnstaple potteries consist mostly of dairy and 
 kitchen utensils. A considerable trade in gloves is 
 still carried on at Tiverton, though the woollen-cloth 
 manufactures there, and at Great Torrington, have 
 declined. Serges are made at Totness, Moreton 
 Hampstead, CliatYord, and other places; and the long 
 ells of Devonshire are still known in the county. The 
 activity of the iron and cordage works for the royal 
 dock-yards, only ceased with the late peace. Silk 
 and porcelain have been deemed the principal manu- 
 factures of this county ; but its productions from the 
 mines, and its fisheries, are very considerable. A 
 considerable quantity of yarn, as well as of laces, are 
 also manufactured; the latter at Honiton, and in i^s 
 vicinity. A china manufactory was also established 
 at Plymouth about 1810. 
 
 Fishing-nets at Barnstaple are wove in a loom. 
 From several of the ports in this county, a good trade 
 lias been carried on to Newfoundland, Ireland, the 
 Mediterranean, and most of the ports in the Bristol 
 Channel. 
 
 SCENERY. 
 
 The high down that overhangs tlie church and vil» 
 lage of Cadbury, is capped with an old circular forti- 
 fication, called Cadbury-castle : from the mounds of 
 this enclosure, there is one of the richest and most 
 extensive views in the county. The work consists of 
 a deep ditch and rampart, enclosing about two acres 
 of ground in the area. 
 
 The forest of Dartmoor rises with a bold and ma- 
 jestic grandeur over all the surrounding heights, 
 which compose an extremely rough and broken re- 
 gion. The summit of this waste is divided by certain 
 meets and bounds, from the commons belonging to 
 the surrounding parishes, into an extended plain, and 
 so much of this stupendous eminence as is called the 
 Forest of Dartmoor; the extreme summit of which, 
 from the level of the sea, is upwards of 2000 feet.
 
 SCENKRY. 6t 
 
 Its whole surface, inclurling the rocks, consists of 
 two kinds; a wet peaty moor, or vegetable mould, 
 uftbrding good pasturage for sheep and bullocks, and 
 an inveterate swamp, absolutely inaccessible to the 
 lightest and most active quadruped, that may safely 
 traverse the sounder parts of the forest. 
 
 The bay which the river Dart forms at its mouth, 
 is one of the most beautiful scenes on the coast; both 
 the entrance of the Dart into it, and its exit to the 
 Bea, appear from many stations, closed up by the 
 folding of the banks, so that the bay has frequently 
 the form of a lake, only furnished with shipping in- 
 stead of boats. Its banks are its great beauty; they 
 consist of lofty wooded hills, shelving down in all di» 
 rections. 
 
 The llev. Mr. Warner, in his " Walk through the 
 Western Counties," observes, " Immediately in the 
 front of Tcignmouth, the broad interminable ocean 
 spreads its ever-varying expanse. To the right, a 
 river, wide and majestic, rolling its waters between 
 gently rising and well wooded hills, stretches for seve- 
 ral miles, and is terminated by the black sides and 
 rocky summits of Dartmoor; and to the left, along 
 range of dark arenacious cliff presents itself, full of 
 rocks and recesses, and finishing in a rocky crag, of 
 a most grotesque and fantastic form." 
 
 The banks of the river Teign are most peculiarly 
 attractive. The wildness of the wood and rock, now 
 washed by the Teign, now starting from the sides of 
 the hill, seems the discriminating feature. To instance 
 one of the wildests spots near the village of Crock- 
 ernvvell, where the Teign runs at the base of the 
 " Moving Rock," we descend into the valley amidst 
 vast masses of granite; and looking back, we see 
 them as it were bursting asunder, and only prevented 
 from falling by their chains of ivy. In other places, 
 enormous ledges overshadowed by oaken foliage, ap- 
 pear like the ruins of a castle. This is particularly 
 the case in the vicinity of the Cromlech — where the 
 berry of the mountain-ash, here remarkably luxuriant, 
 G
 
 62 SOCIEIY AND MAKNEKS. 
 
 liaa a beautiful appearance from chasms of rock in- 
 crusted with pale moss. Tlie eye reposes with plea- 
 sure on the richness of the woods of VVhiidon, after 
 contemplating precipices that seemed ribbed with 
 iron, and follows the receding hills, wave after wave, 
 till they are lost in azure. Much more of this 
 fascinating kind of scenery so peculiar to Devon- 
 shire, will occur in the course of our Topographical 
 Journeys. 
 
 SOCIETY AND MANNERS, 
 
 As they relate to rustical affairs, are particularly 
 distinguishable during the wheat harvest, when the 
 wheat being ready to cut down, notice is given in the 
 neighbourhood, that a reaping is to be performed on 
 a particular day : as a farmer may be more or less 
 liked in the village, on the morning of the day ap- 
 pointed, a gang, consisting of an indefinite number of 
 men and women, assemble in the field, and the reap- 
 ing commences after breakfast, which is seldom over 
 till between eight and nine o'clock. This company 
 is open for additional hands to drop in at any time 
 before the twelfth hour, to partake of the frolic of 
 the day. The dinner, consisting of the best meat 
 and vegetables, is carried into the field between 
 tvvelve and one, and distributed with copious draughts 
 of ale and cider. At two, cutting and binding is re- 
 sumed ; and at five, what is called the drinkings, are 
 taken into the field, accompanied with buns, cakes, 
 &c. When all is over, about the close of the even- 
 ing, a small sheaf is bound up and set upon the top 
 of one of the ridges, when the reapers retiring to a 
 certain distance, each throws his reap-hook at the 
 sheaf, until one of them strikes it down. This achieve- 
 ment is accompanied with the utmost stretch and 
 power of the voices of the company, uttering the 
 words, we ha in! a;e ha in! The company after- 
 wards retire to the farm-house to sup, after which, 
 they make merry with ale and cider, to a late hour. 
 At the same house, or that of a neighbouring farmer, 
 a similar course is probably renewed between eight
 
 LEARNED AND EMINENT MEN, NEWSPAPERS, Sec. 65 
 
 and nine o'clock on the following morning. The la- 
 bourers thus employed, it must be observed, receive 
 no wages, but instead of this, receive an invitation to 
 the farmer's home at Christmas, when open house is 
 kept three or four days at least; and if the rudeness 
 of the bear-garden is sometimes exhibited, the opu- 
 lent, who can command their hours and means ot 
 gratification at pleasure, should not envy those of the 
 rustic. 
 
 " Let not ambition mock their useful toil, 
 Their humble joys and destiny obscure, 
 Nor grandeur hear with a disdainful smile, 
 The short and simple annals of the poor." 
 
 Cider is now from 3/, to 3/. 10s. per hogshead. 
 
 The brewing of what is called zvhite ale, is almost 
 exclusively confined to Kingsbridge. It is said to be 
 made by mashing twenty gallons of malt with the 
 same quantity of boiling water: after standing the 
 usual time, the wort is drawn ofl'; when six eggs, 
 four pounds of flour, a quarter of a pound of salt, and 
 a quart of grout, are beat up together and mixed with 
 the rest, which after standing twelve hours, is put 
 into a cask, and is ready for use the following day. 
 This beverage is described as having a very intoxicat- 
 ing quahty : but that it is of considerable antiquity, is 
 plain from the terrier of the advowson of Dodsbrook, 
 which expressly demands the tithe oi vhite ale. The 
 present worthy incumbent conunutes this claim for 
 half a guinea annually, from each house in the 
 parish. 
 
 LEARNED AND EMINENT MEN, NEWSPAPERS, &C. 
 
 A mere list of all the eminent natives of this county, 
 would occupy much more room than a work of this 
 kind would admit. The worthies of Devon, down to 
 the commencement of the 18th century> were .'col- 
 lected in a folio volume by the Rev. John Prince. 
 The following are among the most celebrated names: 
 Sir John Fortescue Aland, an able judge, born at 
 Fortescue 1670, died 1746.— 'Rev. John Barcham, a 
 G 2
 
 64 LEARNED AND EMINENT MEN, NEWSP APF.US, kc. 
 
 learned antiquary, born at Exeter 1572, died 164'2. 
 — Gervase Barrin^ton, a learned prelate, died 1610. 
 — -Archbishop Baldwin, who accompanied Richard 
 the First to the Holy Land, and died there in 1191, 
 was born at Exeter. — Henry de Bathe, a celebrated 
 judge, died 1261. — Sir John Berry, a naval com- 
 mander, born at Knowston 1635, was poisoned on 
 board his ship at Portsmouth 1691. — Sir Thomas 
 Bodley, an eminent patron of learning, and founder 
 of the Bodleian Library at Oxford, was born at Exe- 
 ter 1544, died 1612. — Thomas Brancker, a cele- 
 brated mathematician, born 1636, died 1676. — Wil- 
 liam Browne, a pastoral poet, born at Tavistock, died 
 1659. — John Burton, a divine, born at Wemworthy, 
 died 1771.— Sir Simon Baskerville the rich, born at 
 Exeter 1573, died 1641.— The eccentric Bampfylde 
 Moore Carew was born at Bickley 1693, died 1770. 
 — Rev. Dean Carpenter, noted for his skill in mathe- 
 matics, born at Hatherleigh, died 1635. — Lady Mary 
 Chudleigh, an ingenious poetess of her time, born at 
 Winsland 1656, died 1710.— John Churchill, the im- 
 mortal Duke of Marlborough, who had no stain on 
 his character but avarice, was born at Ashe in 1659, 
 and died in a state of mental derangement at Windsor 
 in 1722. — William Courtney, Archbishop of Canter- 
 bury, who condemned the reformer Wickliffe and his 
 followers, was born in 1341, died 1396.— Mrs. Han- 
 nah Cowley, an ingenious dramatic writer, born at 
 Tiverton 1*733, died 1809. — John Davis the naviga- 
 tor, who discovered the streights bearing his name, 
 was born at Sandridge, and was killed in an engage- 
 ment with the Japanese, on the coast of Malacca, in 
 1605.— Sir Francis Drake, one of our most distin- 
 guished naval heroes, commanders, and circumnavi- 
 gators, born near Tavistock 1545, died in the West 
 Indies 1596. — John Dunning, Lord Ashburton, an 
 eminent lawyer and statesman, born at Ashburton 
 1731, died 1783 : he was frequently the unbought ad- 
 vocate of the poor and oppressed. — The Rev. Dr. 
 James Forster, a dissenting clergyman, of uncommon
 
 LEARNED AND EMFNENT MEN, NEWSPAPERS, &,c. 65 
 
 omtorial abilities, born at Exeter 1697, died 1753. — 
 Theophilus Gale, another learned dissenting divine, 
 was born at King's Teignton in 1628, died 1678. — 
 John Gay, the poet, was born at Barnstaple in 1688. 
 — Sir John Hawkins, a gallant admiral, born at Ply- 
 mouth, and died off Porto Rico 1590.— John Hooker, 
 a learned antiquary and chronicler, born at Exeter 
 1524, died 1601 : his nephew Richard, called " The 
 Judicious Hooker," was born at Heavitree in 155ii. — 
 William Jackson, a musical composer, and ingenious 
 writer and painter, born at Exeter 1730, died 1803. 
 — John Jewel, a prelate, whose learning and abilities, 
 at his time of day, were celebrated over all Europe, 
 was born at Berry Xarber, and died of a complaint 
 brought on by intense study in 1571. — George La- 
 vington, Bishop of Exeter, w ell known for his " En- 
 thusiasm of Methodists and Papists compared," was 
 born at Heavitree 1683, died 1762.— Sir Walter Ra- 
 leigh, the illustrious navigator and historian, was born 
 at Budley 1522, and was most unjustly beheaded in 
 1617. — Dr. Benjamin Kennecott, one of the most 
 learned and industrious biblical critics this country 
 ever produced, was born at Totness, of which place 
 his father was parish-clerk. — Dr. Edward Lye, divine, 
 antiquary, and lexicographer, was also a native of 
 Totness, and born in 1704. — Tristram Risdon, the 
 faithful historian of his county, was born at Winscot 
 1580, died 1640: a new and very correct edition of 
 his Chorographical Description of Devon was pub- 
 lished at Plymouth in 1811, with an introductory 
 view of the county, and numerous additions. — John 
 Shebbeare, M. D. a political writer of great abilities, 
 born at Bideford, 1709, died 1788.— Dr. Thomas 
 Sprat, Bishop of Rochester, historian and poet, born 
 at Tallaton 1636, died 1713.— Rev. Dr. Thomas Yal- 
 den, a poet, born at Exeter 1671.— Rev. William 
 Tasker, a poet and dramatic writer, born at Iddes- 
 leigh 1740, died 1800. — Thomas Rennel, a painter 
 and poet, born at Chudleigh 1718, died 1788.— Rev. 
 Simon Ockley, orientalist and historian, born at 
 G3
 
 66 TOPOGRAPHICAL DESCRIPXrON Of 
 
 Exeter 1678, died 1720. These, and several others, 
 are the subjects of " The Wortliies of Devon," down 
 to the commencement of the 18tb century, without 
 including a number of ingenious artists, and naval 
 and military characters, whose eminence will entitle 
 them to be handed down to the latest posterity. 
 
 The weekly newspapers printed in this county, are, 
 at Exeter, the Alfred, Flying Post, the Exeter Ga- 
 zette, and the Western Luminary; — at Plymouth, 
 the Telegraph, the Plymouth Gazette, and Plymouth 
 Journal. 
 
 TOPOGRAPHICAL DESCRIPTION OF 
 
 THE COUNTY OF DEVON. 
 
 Journey from Launceston to Axminster ; through 
 OakhamptoTiy Exeter, and Honiton. 
 
 On leaving Launceston we proceed easterly, and, 
 at the distance of three miles, enter this county at 
 the village of Lifton ; about two miles to the left of 
 which, on the western side of the Tamar, but within 
 the boundaries of Devonshire, is Werrington, a seat 
 of the Duke of Northumberland, not remarkable for 
 its architecture, but it is very advantageously situ- 
 ated, being surrounded by a well-wooded park, and 
 commanding very extensive views of the finest parts 
 of the adjacent country. 
 
 About five miles to the north of the village of 
 Werrington is Holsworthy, a small market-town, 
 between two small streams, which soon fall into the 
 Tamar. This small town consists mostly of one long 
 street, through which the road passes from Launces- 
 ton to Hartland. The houses are ancient, and mostly 
 built of mud, &c. provincially termed cob, and the 
 inhabitants chiefly employed in agriculture. The
 
 DEVOXSHIRK 
 
 OakfLamptvn Castle 
 
 MoLOtt Edqcu/nb. 
 
 J
 
 DF.VONSHIRE. 67 
 
 Bude and Launceston canal pnsses at abont the 
 distance of five miles to the south. 
 
 The manor of Werrington, including three parishes; 
 belongs to the Duke of Bedford, 
 
 Resuming our journey, at the distance of fifteen 
 miles from Lifton, we arrive at Oakhampton, an 
 ancient borough, situated near the source of the 
 river Oke, 193 miles from London. It has sent 
 representatives to Parlian)ent ever since the 28tb 
 of Edward I. when it made its first return. The 
 second was in the seventh of Edward the Second ; 
 we find no more returns until the IGth of Charles the 
 Eirst, wiien the town began again to exercise the 
 privilege. 
 
 The right of election is in the freelioldcrs and 
 freemen, being made free according to the charter 
 and b\e-laws. The number of voters is about 200. 
 It is governed by a mayor, eight burgesses, as many 
 common-council men, a recorder, and town-clerk. 
 The Mohuns were lords of Oakhampton till the year 
 1711, when Charles Lord Mohun was killed in a 
 duel with the Duke of Hanulton, and leaving no 
 issue, the honour became extinct. 
 
 Oakhampton is several miles from the source of 
 the Ockment, which rises on Dartmoor. There are 
 two streams which join near Oakhampton, viz. the 
 east and west Ockment. A few miles from Oak- 
 hampton is Cawsand-hill, the highest point of Dart- 
 moor. 
 
 About one mile south-west of the town, on a rocky 
 eminence, are the ruins of a castle, erected by 
 Baldwin de Brioniis, and dismantled by Henry the 
 Eighth, on the attainder of Henry Courtenay, Marquis 
 of Exeter. 
 
 The church is situated on a hill at some distance 
 from the town. There is also an ancient chantry 
 chapel in the market-place, at present in use. The 
 town consists of 308 houses, and 1090 inhabitants. 
 The river Ock, or Oke, is but a small river, joining 
 the Torridge about two miles south from Hatherleigh.
 
 <J8 TOPOGRAPHICAL DESCRIPTION OF 
 
 On the right, about six miles from Oakhampton, 
 is Chagpord, an ancient market-townj situated 
 near the river Teign, almost surrounded by high hills, 
 which have a very picturesque appearance. Chag- 
 ford is a stannary town, and occasionally the place 
 where mining concerns are transacted. The number 
 of houses is 276, inhabitants 1503. 
 
 The country about Chagford and Moreton Hamp- 
 Stead is very romantic ; some of the views are very 
 fine, as Fingle-bridge, and Sidleigh-park. 
 
 On the banks of the Teign, near Chagford, is a 
 woollen manufactory, one of the largest in the 
 country. 
 
 About two miles to the south-east of Chagford is 
 MoRETON Hampstead, a town beautifully situated 
 upon a rising ground, surrounded on every side but 
 the west by high hills. The inhabitants of this place 
 are much engaged in the woollen trade, and the 
 manufacture of serges for the East India Company. 
 The police is managed by a port-reeve and other 
 officers, elected annually at the court-leet of the lord 
 of the manor. The situation of Moreton Hampstead 
 is remarkably recluse, and divided from the rest of 
 the county ; so that a stranger can observe a striking 
 difference in the dialect and manners of the inhabi- 
 tants. The population, as returned in 18:31, was per- 
 sons 1932, houses 386. 
 
 Here are vestiges of two castles, and in the neigh- 
 bourhood may also be seen the ruins of a Druidical 
 temple. The town has a handsome church, and a 
 market on Saturday. 
 
 Lustleigh Cleve, near Moreton Hampstead, is one 
 of the most romantic vallies in Devonshire; the river 
 Bovey runs through it, and at one place is lost 
 beneath the rocks. 
 
 Near the Exeter road leading from Moreton, is 
 Blackstone Rock, an immense pile of granite; the 
 shape is conical, and it rises to the height of several 
 hundred feet. 
 
 The woollen trade has of late much declined. The
 
 DEVONSHIRE. 69 
 
 l-oads leading to Moreton Hainpstead are very much 
 improved ; a new road has been made leading to 
 Exeter tor the space of several miles, by which means 
 the hills have been cut off: the town i« now more 
 accessible to carriages. 
 
 Returning to the Exeter road, we pass on our 
 right, at the distance of nine miles from (iakhanipton, 
 Drew-Steignton, a small village, supposed to have 
 been the chief seat of the Druids in Devonshire. Mr. 
 Polwhele determines the name to signify, " The 
 Druids' town upon the Teign." Ilisdon and Sir Wil- 
 liam Pole derive the name from JJrogo de Teign, an 
 ancient proprietor of the manor. In Doomsday-book, 
 Drew-Steignton is called Tain-tone. The Britisii 
 remains, which seem to support Mr. Polwhele's opi- 
 nion, are circles of upright stones, and a cromlech : 
 he describes these in his historical views of the county 
 in the following words : " Somewhat south of the 
 Druid Way, or Via Sacra, at Drew-Steignton, are 
 two curious circles, contiguous to each other, on the 
 descent of the hill. The first circle is marked by a 
 vallum, which on the outer part declines, and is 
 about four feet high. Though the greater part of the 
 stones which were erected on the top of the mound 
 are gone, and the stones that remain are deep sunk 
 in the ground, yet from these relics we can clearly 
 trace out the whole round of the circle. The stones 
 composing its circumference were placed at equal 
 distances : the area is quite clear, and the diameter 
 of the circle is ninety-three feet. Contiguous to this 
 is another circle, nearly of the same size. One val- 
 lum, in point of approximation, serves for both." 
 
 The only cromlech in this county (which is indis- 
 putably such) is situated in Drew-Steignton (the town 
 of the Druids upon the Teign), on a farm called Shils- 
 ton, in ancient deeds Shelfeston, signifying the shelf- 
 stone, or shelving-stone. With respect to the origi- 
 nal name of this cromlech it will be absurd to con- 
 jecture ; it is at present known in the neighbourhood 
 by the name of Spinster's Rock. This cromlech is of
 
 70 TOPOGRAPHICAL DESCrvIPTIOS Of 
 
 moor-Stone, and Air. Chappie informs us, that, " like 
 most others, it lias only three supporters, flat and 
 irregular in their shape, their surfooes rough and un- 
 polished, and their position not directly upright, but 
 more or less leaning, (two to the northward, and the 
 other to the south-east), and yet so firm as to sustain 
 the very ponderous table-stone which covers them, 
 the whole forming a kind of large irregular tripod, 
 and of such a height as if designed for the Queen of 
 Brobdignag's dwarf, or the foot-stool of Gulliver's 
 nurse ; its upper surface being, where highest, near 
 nine feet and a half from the ground, and the whole 
 on an average at least eight feet. The greatest length 
 of its table-stone, between its most distant angles, is 
 about fifteen feet; but taken parallel to its sides, about 
 fourteen, and at a medium not above thirteen and a 
 half; its greatest breadth ten feet; but this mea- 
 sured at right angles, in that part where its two op- 
 posite sides are nearly parallel, is at a medium but 
 nine feet ten inches." Mr. Polwhele then pursues 
 his observations and researches into its Druidical 
 origin, to which we shall beg leave to refer the 
 reader. 
 
 Near the cromlech is Bradford-pool, a fall of water 
 about half a mile m circumference, surrounded by 
 woods. 
 
 The name of rocking or logging-stone is given to a 
 stupendous block of granite, detached and resting at 
 its base on a rising narrow point of another mass, deep 
 grounded in the channel of the river Teign. An 
 ec[uipoise was thus formed, and though, by accounts 
 given in the neighbourhood, its motion has ceased to 
 be so sensible as in former times, it may still be 
 produced by pressing against the stone with some 
 force. 
 
 Toland, in his History of the Druids, is of opinion, 
 that these holy jugglers made the multitude (to whom 
 monuments of this kind were sacred) believe that 
 they only could move them. The power of produc- 
 ing any surprising effect from a natural cause, disco-
 
 DEVONSHIRE. 71 
 
 vered perhaps b^ acoideiit, was sufficient, with the 
 addition of a few mysterious words or ceremonies, to 
 pass for preternatural endowments. This stone was 
 made the instrument of condemning or acquitting 
 criminals, and also of extorting confession. Its 
 dimensions are ten feet high at the west end, and 
 from the west to the eastern point, its length is about 
 eighteen. The local circumstances of it are almost 
 as extraordinary as the stone itself. The river Teign 
 rolls its waters around, and it is seated among those 
 wild romantic hills, whose shaggy sides are overspread 
 with fragments separated from the craggs above. The 
 following lines are highly applicable to the dale be- 
 neath : 
 
 " Along this narrow valley you might see 
 
 The wild deer sporting on the upland ground, 
 
 And here and there uprise a stunted tree, 
 
 Or mossy stone, or rock with ivy crown'd: 
 
 Oft did the cliffs reverberate the sound 
 
 Of parted fragments tumbling from on high, 
 
 And from the summit of a craggy mound. 
 
 The perching falcon oft was heard to cry, 
 
 Or on resounding wings to shoot athwart the sky." 
 
 About three miles from Drew-Steignton, on the 
 right of our roail, v., Ful ford-house, that of Col. Ful- 
 ford, to whose ancestors it has belonged since the 
 time of Richard the First. This is one of the most 
 ancient mansions in the county, and yet retains much 
 of its original character, though its appearance was 
 greatly improved a few years since. It stands on 
 rising ground near an extensive sheet of water, and 
 consists of a quadrangle, with a large entrance gate- 
 way (surmounted by the family arms), in which is a 
 door leading to a small but neat chapel, still pre- 
 served in a perfect state. Here are two good eating- 
 rooms, a very handsome drawing-room, 42 feet long, 
 and of proportionable height and breadth, containing 
 several good paintings ; also a great number of con- 
 venient bed-rooms. Fulford-house suffered greatly
 
 72 TOPOGRAPHICAL DESCRIPTION OF 
 
 during the civil wars, when it was garrisoned ibr 
 Charles the First; but was afterwards consuletely re- 
 paired by Colonel Francis Fulford : it is described by 
 Westcote and Prince, as being, " without, well ac- 
 commodated with gardens, fish-ponds, and a park ; 
 within, by a beautifid oratorv, neatly wainscotied and 
 seated, and richly paved with white polished marble; 
 as is the great hall checquer-wise, with white and 
 black marble. The staircase is a piece of exquisite 
 workmanship, diversified with various kinds of wood, 
 artificially inlaid, the carved ceiling of which is ex- 
 ceedingly well executed, and conducts us to a noble 
 dining or drawing-room, very handsomely furnished. 
 In this drawing-room is to be seen a portrait of 
 Charles the First, seated in his royal robes. This 
 picture was painted by Vandyke, after his Majesiy's 
 condemnation, and given to Sir Francis Fulford, Knt. 
 as a testimony of royal approbation. Here too is a 
 very large jucture, representing the battle of Grave- 
 lines, in 1558, and a numerous variety (jf other fine 
 paintings. The approach to Fulford-house by the 
 lodge, is about a mile through the park, which 
 abounds with a number of forest trees, and presents 
 a great inequality of surface, rendering the scenery 
 highly diversified." 
 
 In the parish of Maneton, near Morcton, is Becky 
 Fall, a fine cataract, in the midst of a wood. 
 
 Pursuing our journey at the distance of nine miles 
 from Drew-Steignton, and twenty-one from Oak- 
 hampton, we proceed to 
 
 EXETER. 
 
 This city, the capital of Devonshire, is situated on 
 the river Exe, 172 miles from London, about twenty- 
 four miles from the eastern extremity of Devon, and 
 thirty miles from Cornwall ; nine miles from the sea 
 towards the south, and thirty miles from the Bristol 
 Channel. 
 
 Exeter is a place of great antiquity, having been a 
 British settlement long previous to the Roman inva- 
 sion. Camden says, " This city is called by Ptolemy
 
 i)Kvo>sniKE. 73 
 
 JiTtt, by Antoninus Isca Vuiunonium, tor Danmoni- 
 orum ; by others, falsely, Augusta^ as if the Legio. 
 II. Aug. had been stationed there ;" by the Saxons 
 Exuncestrc, and Monketon, from the Monks; now 
 Exester, in Latin Exinia, in British Caer-lsc, Caer- 
 ush, and Penraer, g. d. a chief city. " This city," 
 says Malmsbury, " though situate in a marshy and 
 dreary soil, wlncli will scarcely yield bad oats, often 
 only producing empty husks without i^rain, yet by its 
 magnificence, the wealth of its in!)abitants, and the 
 resort of strangers, carries on so great a trade, that 
 nothing useful is wanting in it." It stands on the 
 east side of the Isca, on a hill gcritly sloping to the 
 east, but more steep to the west ; is defended by stout 
 ditches, and walls with many towers; is in circuit a 
 mile and a half, with several large suburbs ; has 
 fifteen parisli churches, and in the highest part of it, 
 near the east gate, a castle anciently called llouge- 
 mont, once the seat of the Saxon kings, afterwards 
 of the Earls of Cornwall, now remarkable only for 
 its antiquity and situation. It connnanis the city 
 and country below, and a tine view of the sea. 
 
 " In the east part of the city is the cathedral 
 church, surrounded with handsome buildings, founded 
 by King Athelstan, in honour of St. Peter, and filled 
 by monks, according to the history of the place. 
 Afterwards Edward the Confessor, the monks being 
 removed to Westminbter, placed here a bishop's see, 
 transferring hithei- the sees oi" Cornwall and Credition, 
 and appointing Leofric, a Briton, the first bishop, 
 whose successors enlarged the church with buildings 
 and revenues, and William Bruer. the ninth ni succes- 
 sion from him, in 1224, insteadof the displaced monks, 
 introduced a dean and 24 prebendaries." 
 
 The north and east gates have been removed, in 
 order to widen these entrances into the city. The 
 interior arch of the south gate. Dr. Stukeley supposed 
 to have been llouian workmanship; the west gate is 
 taken down, and the south iiate, which contains the 
 
 ir
 
 71 TOPOGRAPHICAL DESCRIPTION OF 
 
 city prison, havinir been presented as a nuisance, has 
 been accordingly removed. 
 
 SOUTH GATE. 
 
 The city of Exeter is very pleasantly situated upon 
 a hiil on the east side of the river Exe, which flows 
 round the south-west side of the town. The cleanli- 
 ness and salubrity of the situation is much promoted 
 by the ground beinj2; high through the middle of the 
 town, sloping off on every side ; the ground again 
 rising to the north and east of the city, to a consider- 
 able degree of elevation, from whence the views are 
 particularly beautiful. The principal street has an 
 ancient a|)pearance, but several handsome buildings 
 have been erected within the last twenty or thirty 
 years, and new streets formed, equal in every re- 
 spect to any others in the kingdom. These streets 
 liiive been newly paved, and hghted with gas. 
 
 Among the ancient biuldings of Exeter, the venc-
 
 DEVONSHIRE. /J 
 
 rable and niagiiliicent cathedral is entitled to our 
 first attention. It was begun by Leofric, the first 
 bishop of Exeter, in the eleventh century, and the 
 work continued until its completion by his ininu'di:ite 
 successors, particularly by Willi.nn \Varburton, the 
 third bishojj, who was a Norman, and had been ciiap- 
 lain to the CoiKjuerur, and his two sons, William and 
 Henry. This prelate considerably enlarged the plan 
 of the cathedral, and laid the foundation of the pre- 
 sent clioir; to him the towers yet remaining are pro- 
 bably to be ascribed : they are perfectly similar in 
 style to the buildings of Gundulphus, his contempo- 
 rary ; and much more resemble the niagniilcence of 
 the Normans, than tlie simplicity of the English 
 Saxons. The building received grciit damnge during 
 the siege of Exeter by King Stephen, in 1138, when 
 it was plundered and burnt. Tiie repairs were finally 
 completed by Henry Marshall, who btcame bishop 
 in 1194. Bishop lilondy is said to have been a 
 worthy benefactor to this church, contributing very 
 liberally toward>> the buiUling of the same. V/aher 
 Broiiescombe, his successor, added a chapel on the 
 south side of the east end, dedicated to St. Gabriel, 
 intended for his place of sepulchre, and his tomb 
 still remains. Bishop (Juivil, who succeeded Broncs- 
 combe in 1Q81, perfected the grandeur and beauty 
 (jf the plan for the present calhednd. It was he who 
 " first began to enlarge and increase his church, from 
 the cliancel downwards." And as Sir H. Englefield 
 observes, " the uniformity of the structure, as it at 
 present stands, seems to prove beyond a doubt, that 
 the wh(jle (as the uniform tradition of different wri- 
 ters has delivered down to us) was the fruit of one 
 great design, and its singular elegance does as much 
 honour to the taste, as its noble size does to tlie muni- 
 ficence of the founder." The two heavy Norman 
 towers were, under the direction of this prelate, eon- 
 verted into transepts, and one side of each tower was 
 taken away, nearly half its height from the ground, in 
 II 'J ^
 
 76 TOPOGRAPHICAL DESCRIPITON OF 
 
 order to construct an arch of sufficient strenoth to 
 support the remaining upjer part. Windows were 
 opened in the touers\o light the newly-formed tran- 
 sept, corresponding in style to those introduced into 
 tl.«e upper part of the choir. A building of the di- 
 mensions of this catiiedral could scarcely be erected 
 in the life of one bishop. We accordingly find that, 
 during the time of Quivii's successor, Button, great 
 sums were in different years expended on the work ; 
 and the choir was not finished till the year 1318, in 
 tli.e time of Bishop Stapledon, v. ho adt)rne<i it with 
 two images of St. Peter and St. Paul, and filled the 
 windows vrith stained glass. 
 
 Five arches on each side of the nave towards the 
 west, were added to the cathedral by Bishop Gran- 
 dison, wlio was consecrated at Rome the 18th of 
 October, 1327, and afterwards preferred to the see 
 of Exeter by Edward III. This prelate also "vaulted 
 the whole roof of the nnve," and decorated the 
 west front with a magnificent external skreen, or 
 facade, which is profusely ornamented \vith niches, 
 tracery, statues, (Sec; he also made some additions 
 to the cloisters, and constructed an elegant chapel 
 for himself behind the skreen above mentioned. 
 
 In the description of the cathedral, published by 
 the Society of Antiquarians, this beautiful piece of 
 work is thus described : — '' It is divided into three 
 parts, separated in some degree by two projecting 
 parts or buttresses; but both of them comprehended 
 in the regular design. In the centre part is the prin- 
 cipal entrance into the church ; and on the right of 
 it are the small windows of Bishop Grandison's cha- 
 pel; in the two other divisions are the small en- 
 trances, which differ in their form. The angles on 
 each extremity of the skreen are different; the prin- 
 cipal parts of it are a plinth with moulding?, on 
 which rises a regular number of divisions, separated 
 by small regular buttresses enriched. Each division 
 contains two tier of niches; the lower one has ape-
 
 DEVONSIIIllE. 77 
 
 :t still (it three iides uit]j paunels, aiiil embattled at 
 \o[), t'rom whicli iasue angels, either placed agaiiibt, or 
 einbruciiii; binall clusters of columns; they display an 
 elegant variety of attitudes, &c. 
 
 " On the pedestals of the small windows tliere is 
 but one column, though there are more capitals, 
 corresponding with the rest of the several capitals, 
 the support and assemblat;e of royal persona£;es, who 
 are seated, some in their robes, and some in very 
 splendid armour. Those statues on the buttresses*, 
 uhich are standint;, are religious; the one that is 
 perfect on the right, a bishop. Over the entrance 
 of the left part ot the skrecn are three of the cardinal 
 virtues; the fourth destroyed. The first, from the 
 scales, Justice; the second, from the lance and shield. 
 Fortitude ; the third, tVoni the religious dress and the 
 heart in her hands. Discipline : they each have a crown 
 on their heads, and are trampling under their feet, 
 prostrate figures, emblematic of their opposite vices. 
 
 " In the spandrils of the arch of the principal en- 
 trance are lour angels reposing; and in four small 
 niches, on the side of the architraves, are small 
 statues of royal personages seated. Over the entrance 
 of the third part, issue from small ornamented 
 brackets, two royal personages, and between them 
 a grithn. On the returns or sides of the buttress, 
 are four more royal persons. The canopies to the 
 niches ditler on the buttresses, and from the four 
 first divisions on the third part. In the second 
 tier all the statues are standing, except in the 
 niche joining the centre small angular buttress, in 
 which is a royal figure seated; in his right hand the 
 remains of a sceptre, and in the other a book, his 
 feet on a globe, which is divided into three parts : 
 below is a shield with the arms of the see quartered 
 with the old Saxon kings', supported by two kneeliug 
 angels. The corresponding statue is gone, though 
 the shield with the arms of England and Edward the 
 Confessor, supported likewise with angels, remains.
 
 78 TOPOGRAPHICAL DESCUIPTION OF 
 
 The five statues on each side, comprehend ten of 
 the Apostles with their attributes. On the buttresses 
 are the four Evangelists, with their symbols at their 
 feet. The rest of the statues which fill the remaining 
 niches, have no particular badge to distinguish them. 
 There are likewise four more statues in this line, on 
 the returns of the buttresses; but they have no dis- 
 tinguishing marks. The statue on the angle at the 
 extremity to the right in this tier, is St. Michael 
 triumphing over Lucifer. The heads of the niches 
 differ also in the buttresses; but those in the third 
 part alter their designs entirely. The line of the en- 
 tablature continues to the right-hand buttress, and 
 then loses part of its width. The battlements on the 
 first and third parts are of a most uncommon fancy ; 
 angels appear between the openings, some playing 
 on musical instruments, and others in attitudes of 
 devotion. The battlements of the centre part, and 
 buttresses, are open and much enriched." 
 
 Sir Henry EuL^lefield' notices some particular va- 
 rieties in the architecture, viz. " The northern side 
 <loor dilVers extremely from the southern. The 
 former is much plainer than any other part of the 
 skreen, and much resembles, in its decorations, the 
 north porch. The southern door is much richer than 
 any other part; tie arch of entrance is singularly 
 beautiful, and the four niches over it are of the most 
 elegant form possible. May it not be suspected that 
 these lateral pnrfs were erected after the central 
 building, and that Bishop Grandison's skreen was 
 terminated by the two piojectmg buttresses which 
 divide the present fabric into three^ parts?" 
 
 The length of the whole church is 390 feet, and its 
 breadth 75. In the clear it is said to measure as 
 follows, viz. the length of the library is 57 feet, the 
 breadth 24 t^et; from the library to the choir aisle 
 door clear 148| feet, and from thence to the west end 
 174 fef.t. 
 
 The stones with which the walls of this noble"
 
 DrvoN^Hiun. 70 
 
 eilihce weie principally built, according to Bishop 
 Lyttlcton, c:mie from LJecr, near Colyton, iiiDtvon; 
 the vaultiiii: stone, of which the rool is conipoitd, iVom 
 Silvtrton, in the bnine county ; the pavement of the 
 rhoir from Caen in Normaiwly, by sea, to Topshnm. — 
 The Ne-stry belonging to St. Mary's Chapel, rebuilt iu 
 Henry \lth's time, of Woncford 5t«)ne, all which ap- 
 pears by the fabric rolls. 'I he thin tine pillars, which 
 are seen in every part of the church, and idly supposed 
 to be an artificial composition, came from the Isle of 
 Purbeck, near Corfe, in Dorset 
 
 The chapttr-house is a handsome quadr;\ngular 
 room, su()posed to have been built by bishop J.acy, 
 in 1430. Sir II. FngUt'ield rather thinks this prelate 
 only budt the upper part of it ; observing, thai " the 
 lower part of this elegant room is so (htlerent from 
 that of the superstructure, and so much resembling 
 the architecture of the church, that it is hiuhly pro- 
 bable that Bishop (^nivil, who is recorded to have 
 b«'t:un the cloisters, did also build, or at least begin, 
 the chapter-house." 
 
 There are some specimens of painted glass in the 
 windows of the cifbodral, which are very large and of 
 unitorm shape, but each adorned with ditrerently 
 formed tracery. The east and west windows in par- 
 ticular are remarkably fine ; the west window is 
 modern. 
 
 The organ is supposed to be one of the finest in 
 England, and is very large ; there is one pipe fifteen 
 inches in diameter. It was built by John Loosemore, 
 in 1665, and has since been considerably improved 
 bv*Jordan and Micheau. This instrument is in very 
 liigh esliination for its fine tone; the stop called the 
 double diapason, is an octave below the common pitch, 
 and contains pipes supposeil to be the largest in the 
 kingdom, which are not within the organ case, but 
 attached to the side columns of the building. 
 
 Bishop Courtenay, to whom the church is indebted 
 for a curious astronomical clock under the north tower, 
 also gave thegstat Peter bell, which was brought frona
 
 80 TOPOGRAPHICAL DESCllIPTION Ol" 
 
 Landuff, where it went by that name ; said by Prince 
 to weigh 12,500 pounds, 'and is still suspended at the 
 very top of the north tower, llie chapels erected at 
 different periods within the cathedral, have in general 
 become the burial places of the bishops who founded 
 them. The library is in St. JMary's; St. Andrew's is 
 used as a vestry by the canons and prebendaries, and 
 St. James's as a vestry for the priest vicars. 
 
 Among other curious tombs and monumental in- 
 scriptions in this cathedral, are those to the memory 
 of Humphry de Bohun, Earl of Flereford and Essex ; 
 Hugh Courtenay, Earl of Devofi ; Margaret his wife, 
 daughter of the above earl ; Philip Courtenay, their 
 son ; and of many other illustrious and private persons. 
 There is also an elegant cenotaph, to the memory of 
 the late Lieut.-Gen. Simcoe, C. W. D. executed by 
 Mr. Flaxman. 
 
 There are fifteen churches within the walls of 
 Exeter, besides the cathedral, and four in the suburbs : 
 these are small, and do not require particular notice. 
 I'here are also several Dissenters' meeting-houses, and 
 a Jews' synagogue. 
 
 The city and suburbs of Exeter occupy a space of 
 ground about one mile and three quarters in length 
 and one mile in breadth. In the year 1769 the walls 
 were entire, but many parts have been since de- 
 stroyed. 
 
 The remains of Rougemont-casile, once the seat of 
 the West Saxon Kings, and since, of the Dukes of 
 Exeter, are to be seen in the highest part of the city, 
 on the north side. Grafton, in his Chronicle, says 
 this building was the work of Julius C«sar. Rouge* 
 mont-castle held out for some time against the con- 
 queror; but a part of the wall falling down, it was 
 surrendered at discretion. 
 
 There was a curious ancient building in Water- 
 lane, supposed by Ducarel, in his Anglo-Norman 
 Antiquities, to have been the first Christian church 
 m Exeter. It appeared to be of the same style of 
 architecture, and of equal antiquity, with the south
 
 DEVON>HlRF. bl 
 
 *!ate. The old Guildhall is a very contint-d buildiui!, 
 with a portico front, projecting considerably jnto the 
 strict, 
 
 Atnun': the many charitable institutions in this citv, 
 the Devon and Exeter Hospital, tor the benefit of the 
 indigent sicii, founded by Dr. AUired Clark, Dean ot 
 Kxeier, in 17-10, deserves particular conimendaiion. 
 It was opened for the reception of patients on New- 
 yeiirVday, 1717. — For the maintenance and educa- 
 tion of the infant poor, there are no less than ten 
 establishments, besides numerous Sundav-schools. 
 Here are also several well-emlowcd aliiis-lfc<u<es, tor 
 the decayed and indigent inhabitants of the city. 
 Amonj: tliese, the principal is Wynard's, or God's 
 House, for the maintenance of twelve poor people ; 
 each of whom has a neat habitation, with u small 
 garden annexed, and jin allowance of money, both 
 weekly and annually. The founder of this charity was 
 ^^'illiam Wynard, Recorder of Exeter, in the reigns of 
 Henry W and Henry \T., who bequeathed viirious 
 lands and hereduanitnis in the city and county of 
 Devon for its support. The charitable institutions 
 nre : 1. The West of England Infinnary, for curing 
 diseases of the eye; 2. Humane Society tor the reco- 
 very of drowned people; 3. Eunatic Asylum; 4. Ey- 
 ing-in Chiritv; 5. Stranger's Eriend Society, for the 
 relief of distressed strangers, 6cc. ; the Institution tor 
 prtmioting Science, Literature, and other Arts, schools 
 on Bell's and Eancastcr's plans, (S:c. tlVc. 
 
 The Bishop of Exeter's palace, on the south-e:tst 
 side of the cathedral, is an ancient and very respect- 
 able buildintr, supposed to have been either built or 
 enlarged by Bishop Courtenay, in the reign of Ed- 
 ward IV'. This bisliop's arms, with those of England, 
 and the badge <jf St. Anthony, are emblnzoned over 
 a curiou«5 chimney-piece in the hall, and have been 
 presented to the public in an engravmg published by 
 the Society of Antiquaries. 
 
 The new County I iouse of Correction at Exeter, 
 ( (Mnplcted in 1810. was described by thelate J. Nield,
 
 82 TOPOGRAPHICAL DESCRIPTION OF 
 
 Esq. as an extensive and nuble structure, heing 
 equally admired for the solidity of its construction, 
 the excellence of its masonry, and its handsome ap- 
 ' pearance, which will remain a lasting lionour to the 
 county of Devon. It stands on somewhat more than 
 an acre and a half of ground, and is situate in a field, 
 on a fine eminence adjoining to the county goal. Its 
 foundation was laid near three years since ; and un- 
 derneath is placed a tin plate, with the following in- 
 scription: 
 
 " The Foundation-stone of this House of Correction 
 was laid by Samuel Fredeuick Milford, Esq. 
 Chairman of a Committee of Magistrates of the 
 County of Devon, in the presence of the said Com- 
 mittee, on the 22d day of August, in the year 1807. 
 "Geo. Mo.neypenny, Architect." 
 
 The prison is encircled by a boundary wall, 'twenty- 
 two feet high ; in the front of which is the keeper's 
 lodge, a handsome stone building, rendered very con- 
 spicuous by a noble gate of entrance, sixteen feet 
 liigh and eight feet wide; adorned with rustic cinc- 
 tures and arch-stones of uncommon grandeur, adopted 
 from a design of the Earl of Burlington, as executed 
 in the flanks of Burlington-house, Piccadilly. Above 
 the gate is a stone cornice, crowned with a tablet, on 
 which is inscribed : 
 
 " The House of Correction rOR the County of 
 Devon: erected in -the year 1809." 
 
 On passing the lodge, in which are the turnkey's 
 apartments, amply fitted up with every acconunoda- 
 tion, a spacious flag-stone pavement leads through u 
 neat shrubbery to the keeper's house, an octaL'on 
 buildmg, situate in the centre of the pris(»n ; on die 
 ground-floor of which are a committee-room for the 
 magistrates, a parlour for the keeper, an oliice-rooni, 
 and a kitchen; and underneath, in the basement 
 story, are large vaulted apartments for domestic 
 purposes. 
 
 The House of Correction consists of three wings,
 
 PEVOX>IIlUr.. Rii 
 
 <ltl;Kiie<i iVoin llie keeper's house by an arta twelve 
 leelxvide; each wiiii: conUuiiinj; Itvo prisons tohtUy 
 <li«>tiiirt, ko tluit tliere are six divisi(jiis tor as iiiaiiv 
 riass vs ot" piisoners, with a spaciou> r"urt-vard ap- 
 [)ropriatefl to each, surrounded by wrought-iron rad- 
 intr, six lect ln^h, which prevents access to the houn- 
 d;iry-\vall, and preser\es a tree conununiciition ot" 
 twi Ive feet in breadth betwixt the wall and the couri- 
 yartls. 
 
 i he entrances to all the court-yards and prison 
 apart ineiits open I'rom the area round the keeper's 
 house, throU'^h \vroui;ht-iriin urated gates opposite the 
 ■^< veral windovNS ot hi^ apartiuents. 
 
 'Ihi re are al^j iron-i:rated apertures in tlie arcacK^s 
 f the iiround-tloor, which oj)en into llie area; so 
 that the whole prison is completely insjx^cted, and 
 the ditVerent classes attnule«l to, without the necessity 
 <»t pas^iiij; or eiitering the court-yanU; the keeper, 
 tioiii the windows oi his own dwellinn, having a view 
 into the airjnL'-^'roun(i> and ui^rk-shops of all the divi- 
 sions. 
 
 In each court-yard, on the grtjund lloor, are spa- 
 i lous vaulted arcades, fated u\) us uork-s/u>psJ'ur /i^hC 
 tinplofjintnt, and in w})ich a nund>er ot" prisoners are 
 occupied in weavini;, picking and sortinj; wool, beat- 
 ing hemp, cutting bark, ike. A<lioining to the arcade 
 in ( ach division, is a day-room, lighted )»y two lame 
 sash windows, and fitted up with a patent kitchen 
 stove, which answers every purpose of domestic 
 cookery. Between the stone piers tiiat support the 
 vaulted ceiling (»f the day-rooms, are wooden dressers; 
 and benches of wood are placed round the rooms. 
 'J he prisoners have access to the day-rooms only 
 (i urine their meals, and for one hour previously to 
 their being locked up. 
 
 On the tir^t floor of each division, to which the 
 ascent is by stone staircases, are six cells, and on the 
 second tloor six others, making in all seventy-two ; 
 ' ach seven feci by ten, and ten Icet six inches iii;:h to
 
 34 lOrOGRAPHICAL DESCEIPIION Of 
 
 the cruwn of the arch; lighted and ventilated by iron- 
 grated apertures over the doors, of two ftet six inches 
 by one foot, v^ithout glass. Each cell is fitted up uiih 
 one, and some with two wooden bedsteads, in the form 
 of those used in the Royal Hospital at Haslar, to be 
 used in case of necessity. Ail the cells open into 
 spacious and lofty arcades, guarded by iron rails; and 
 thus a free circulation of air is preserved, which can- 
 not fail to render this prition always more healthful 
 than it could be with close confined passages, into 
 which the cells and rooms of otlier prisons too gene- 
 rally open. The floors of all the cells and arcades are 
 paved with large flag-stones, and the cell-doors lined 
 with iron plates. 
 
 On the upper floor, at the back of the right and left 
 wing, are two rooms, each thirteen feet six inches by 
 ten feet, and ten feet six inches high to the crown of 
 the arch, set apart for faulty apprentices. These 
 rooms are lighted by sash windows, and have a fire- 
 place in each; the floors are paved with flag-stones, 
 and each room is fitted up with wooden bedsteads, in 
 like manner as the cells. 
 
 On the first floor of the keeper's house is the chapel, 
 an irregular octagon, 38 feet m diameter, and 11 feet 
 high; lighted by eiglit large sash windows, and neatly 
 divided by^ framed partition pews, which are so 
 heightened by crimson blinds, as to prevent the 
 classes seeing each other. The prisoners have a com- 
 munication with the chapel, from the first floor of 
 the arcades, into the different divisions set apart for 
 each class of prisoners, where tliey enter and return, 
 without mixing with, or b'^'ing in sight of each other. 
 
 This prison is supplied with fine water from a 
 reservoir (placed on an arcade in the area between 
 the back wing of the prison and the keeper's house\ 
 which is filled from a well underneath by an hydraulic 
 pump of excellent contrivance, that is worked bv tlie 
 prisoners every morning. From the reservoir, pipes 
 are laid into all the day-rooms of the prison, the
 
 DEVONVUIRE, 85 
 
 turijkty's loif^c, and the kitclitn uf the keeper's 
 liouse ; in latU of which rooms, ei(;ht in .number, is 
 fixed a stone trouj;h, witli u pipe nnd cock. 
 
 The sewers of this prison are jndiciousiy placed at 
 the ends of the dilTerent winus; they arc spacious, 
 lofty, well venlilaleii, and the vaults are 30 feet 
 deep. 
 
 All the areas and walks round tiie prison, and the 
 arcades and day-rooms, are pa\ed with larjje dac- 
 sione?, nnd the six cjurl-yards wiiii fine i;r.i\el. 
 The rodfs of the wliolc huildinti are so constructed a* 
 to shelter the walls and the foot-paths round the 
 j)rison in wet weather. They project fne feel beyund 
 the walls, and the solTit of the projection is relieved 
 hy canlilivers, in the manner of the larly (irccian 
 ttmples; of which the church of St. I\iul, Coveol- 
 ^ardcn, is an example. 
 
 At the hack of the pri-on, and counnunicatini; 
 tl'.erewith, is a spacious wurk-yard, in which are 
 some extensive working-shops, tor the pnrpi)Se of 
 more labourious employment than is carried on im- 
 iiiediaiely within the prison; such as hewini; and 
 
 i)olishing stone, sawing timber, tutting bark, \c. 
 n this work-yard are two sewers and a pump, winch 
 alfords a supply of very fine water. 
 
 It is in contemplation to erect an ho>pital tor the 
 i^e of the Gaol and Bridewell; which will be a 
 detached building, and contain airy wards for male 
 and female invalids, with hot and cold batlis. 
 
 The rules and regulations for the government of 
 this prison are excellent : their principal tendency is 
 to enforce cleanliness, morality, and habits of indus- 
 try. The greatest stress is also laid on the constant 
 separation of the prisoners into distinct classes, ar- 
 ranged according to the respective nature «'f their 
 offences; so that the more criminal may no lf>nger 
 I orrupt those who have been committed tor slight 
 '•iVences, and thus render them far more depraved 
 Mian before their imprisonment; which wa«: inevitably 
 !ie case in the Old Bridewell. 
 I
 
 86 TOPOGRAPHICAL DESCRIPTION OF 
 
 The cit)' of Exeter has, from time immemorial, 
 possessed considerable municipal privileges. In the 
 reign of Kini!;John, the corporation paid a fine of 110 
 marks for a confirmation of their charter. In the 
 rei^n of Edward I. the burgesses and citizens pleaded, 
 that their city was an ancient demesne, and that they 
 held it in fee^farm of the crown, paying 39/. 15s. 3d. 
 To support this claim, they referred to the charter of 
 Henry III. made to his brother Richard, king of the 
 Ilomans, whereby they further challenged return of 
 writs, a gallows, pillory, &c. and a fair of four days, 
 besides tlieir weekly markets; which liberties they 
 certified they enjoyed since the time of the Conquest; 
 upon which they were allowed. In the time of 
 Henry \'III. the city was constituted a county of 
 itself. The government of the corporation is vested 
 in a mayor, a recorder, and common council, seven 
 of whom are aldermen and justices «)f the peace, a 
 town-clerk, under-sheritf, four serjcants-at-mace, and 
 some inferior officers. The mayor has four chaplains, 
 three stewards, and a sword-bearer. Civil causes 
 are tried by the mayor, or his officers, who have 
 cognizance of all pleas, hear all causes between party 
 and party, and determine them with the advice of 
 the recorder, aldermen, and council of the city ; but 
 criminal causes and breaches of the peace are deter- 
 mined by the aldermen, who are justices. 
 
 The corporate bodies in it are thirteen in number, 
 each of them governed by officers annually chosen 
 among themselves; and their revenues are very con- 
 siderable. — About a mile east of Exeter is Heavitree, 
 formerly called Woneford, the seat of John Baring, 
 Esq. given by Henry I. to Geoflfrv de Mandeville, 
 warden of the castle of Exeter. In the twenty-seventh 
 of Henry III. it became the property of William 
 Kelly, and it continued in the possession of his de- 
 scendants until 1773, when Arthur Kellv, Esq. sold 
 the manor to Mr. Baring. This place was the birtli- 
 place of Richard Hooker, the author of the " Eccle- 
 siastical Polity," and Arthur Duck, the rivilian.
 
 DLVoNNimir. HT 
 
 The city of Exiter has Sfiit representatives to 
 Parliaiiieut iVoin the earliest period ot* parliamentarv 
 histijry. The nia^i^trati-s, freemen, and n^ideut 
 freeholders, aniountiiii; in number to about 1 !iuu per- 
 sons, possess tiie ri^ht of elt'Ciii>n. 
 
 Kxeter, as a commercial city, supports four news- 
 papers^ — 1. Exeter living ^o^t ; '2. Exeter Gazette; 
 3. Western Luminary ; 4. The Alfred : and the time 
 of the po'-t Setting out is regulated as follows : 
 
 Ihe post sets tuit for London, and every place 
 beycjiid that city, eiery niorning at half pa>t four 
 o'clock, Saturday excepted. 
 
 The post sets out for every stage eastward, except 
 London, every morning at half p;ist f«nir o'clock. 
 
 The post sets out fjr Bath, Bristol, Manchester, 
 all Wales, and every other sta^e north-east from 
 Exeter, every mornini; at three o'clock. 
 
 The post sets out for Plymouth, Dartmouth, and 
 every stage to the south-west of Exeter, every inorn- 
 ing at one o't lock. 
 
 The post seta out for Rirnstaple, Bideford, Tor- 
 rington, Stratton, and every place north-west of 
 Exeter, every night at twelve o'clock. 
 
 The post sets out for Faliuouth, and every stage 
 to the west of Exeter, every niorning at one o'clock. 
 
 The post sets out for Topsham, Exmouth, Sidford, 
 Sidn)ouili, Otterton, and Colyton, every morning at 
 one o'cloc k. 
 
 N. B. Letters for all parts of the kingdom must be 
 put into the post-office before nine o'clock in the 
 evening. 
 
 There also arc several literary societies, and many 
 excellent libraries, open to the public. Assemblies 
 and balls are frefjuent and well attended, and the 
 various watering-places and tea-gardens in the neigh- 
 bourhood, contribute towards the anmscmcnt and 
 general entertainment of the inhabitants of the city of 
 Exeter. 
 
 On the north side of the city, behind the county 
 Sessions-house, is a most beautiful promenade, called 
 12
 
 8li TOPOGRAPHICAL DESCRIPTION OF 
 
 theNorthcrDhny, very justly the pride of the citizens, 
 and the admiration ot strangers. On Southernhay 
 is the Devon and Eseter Hospital, a spacious build - 
 inir, erected iii the year 1741, and since supported by 
 voluntarv subscriptions In 1801 an asylum for lunatics 
 was built under the patronage of characters of the 
 first respectability in the parish of St. Thomas. 
 
 The city has two market-days, on Wednesday and 
 Friday, tlie last of which is the largest; and four 
 fairs— the principal is that called Lammas, held in 
 the beginning of August : the charter for the same is 
 perpetuated by a glove of immense size, stuffed and 
 carried through the city on a pole, attended witli 
 music, and afterwards placed on the top of the Guild- 
 hall, when the fair commences, which lasts two days, 
 and on taking down the glove, the fair terminates. 
 
 Exeter has long been famous for the woollen trade 
 in serges, druggets, duroys, kerseys, and everlast- 
 ings, which being bought in a rough state by the 
 traders of Exeter, are here dyed and finished for 
 liome consumption and exportation. Before the 
 late war, Spain was the principal market for many of 
 these articles; but though this and other foreign 
 markets have declined, the East India Company are 
 still said to purchase long ells to the amount of 
 about 100,000/. yearly ; and a cotton manufactory, on 
 the banks of the Exe, at one time employed 300 
 persons. 
 
 The ground enclosed within the wall is nearly in 
 the form of a parallelogram, four furlongs in length, 
 and three in breadth. The streets and houses, parti- 
 cularly in the High-street, have an appearance of 
 antiquity. Besides the cathedral, the buildings most 
 worthy of notice, are the bishop's palace, the new 
 gaol, the barracks, the circus, the theatre, and the 
 county hospital. 
 
 The new bridge over the Exe, at the west entrance 
 of the city, is very handsomely built of stone, at the 
 expence of nearly '^0,000/. owing to the difficulty 
 encountered in the rapidity of the stream. Vessels of
 
 DEVONSHIRE. «9 
 
 large burthen lie at Topshani ; but by means of a 
 canal, small craft can convey their cargoes to Exeter, 
 and unload at the quay, which h very spacious, 
 having on it the Custom-house, and other necessary 
 buildin^is. 
 
 The llour-mill on the leat near pAeter quay is a 
 singular construction : it was erected by Mr. Abra- 
 ham Richardson of that city, and for beauty and 
 strength, is said to surpass any other in the west of 
 England. The principal wheel is twelve feet in 
 diameter, which, together with the fall underneath 
 it, and all the other wheels and shalts, is composed 
 of cast-iron, weighing upwards of six tons, and is 
 capable of working tour pair of stones, even at high 
 water, when no other mill on the leat can work. 
 
 An establishment similar to the Apothecaries'-hall 
 of London has been opened in this city, for the be- 
 nefit of the public at large, under the direction of 
 some respectable professional men. 
 
 In the summer of 182'2, the Connnissit^ners for the 
 improvement of Exeter, had jjlans in agitation to take 
 down Broadgate, and widen the avenue, by the re- 
 moval of the houses on each side ; however, as their 
 funds would not admit of layini; out more than 700/., 
 it was agreed, that at their next meeting, they should 
 examine a plan for removimj: the houses on the right 
 hand leading in fr(jm Eore-blreet, and for taking down 
 the gate. The Dean and Chapter gave their con- 
 sent, but declined contributing to the expence. 
 
 Exeter was first lighted with gas in the year 1817. 
 
 The most remarkable vestige of the conventual 
 buildings is a crypt with massive Saxon arrhcs in 
 Mint-lane, which has been converted into a kitchen, 
 now in the occupation of Mr. William Baker. 
 
 The Roman Catholic Chapel built in 1792, and the 
 Rev. Mr. Olivers house, stand on part of the site of 
 some of tliese buildii^gs. 
 
 The Episcopal charity schools in Exeler are open 
 to the children of all the Exeter parishes. In four of 
 these, 250 children are educated; the bovs in reading, 
 13
 
 90 TOPOGRAPHICAL DESCRIPTION OF 
 
 writing, and arithmetic ; the girls in reading, sewing, 
 and knitting. A handsome school-house for this 
 charitv has lately been built in the parish of St. Paul, 
 and opened at iViidsunjmer 1818. A diocesan central 
 school had been opened in 1812, on Dr. Bell's system. 
 Besides these there are two supported by Dissenters. 
 In one of these, in the out parish of St. Sidwell, sixty 
 children, boys and girls, are educated and clothed. 
 In a Sunday-school there are about 150 children of 
 both sexes. The hospital for the sick, lame, and 
 wounded persons, originally founded in 1741, now 
 contains 140 beds. 
 
 In the year 1819 a Female Penitentiary was esta- 
 blished in this city. 
 
 A Devon and Exeter Institution for the promotion 
 of science, literature, and the arts, was established at 
 Exeter in 1813, by some gentlemen of the city and 
 its neighbourhood. A handsome building has been 
 fitted up for the purpose with two spacious libraries, 
 galleries for a Museum, and reading-rooms. Here is 
 an extensive herbarium of British plants, and a fine 
 collection of Devonshire mosses. 
 
 At the Hotel in the close is an assembly-room, 
 which was the only one for such uses before the year 
 1820, when a spacious handsome room for concerts 
 was built near the New London Inn. 
 
 The theatre, with a handsome stone front, stands 
 between Bedford-crescent and Southernhay : this build- 
 ing, excepting the front, was destroyed by fire in 1820, 
 but has since been rebuilt. 
 
 The barrow on Haldown is known to the country 
 round, by the appellation of the great stone-heap, 
 which, though originally of a conical form, as are 
 all the tumuli in these parts, being now intersected 
 by an opening made in 1780, affords a singular and 
 conspicuous object to the subjacent country. The 
 form of this barrow was nearly circular, being more 
 than 200 feet in circumference, and in height about 
 15. By the aid of 14 men, a passage into it was 
 etfected almost due east, about eight feet wide. At
 
 DEVONSHIRE, 9i 
 
 trearly the same space from the margin was disco- 
 vered a dry wall about two feet high, which was se- 
 parated from without, by very lurge stones in the 
 form of piers or buttresses. On arriving near the 
 centre, a great many huge stones (all of them flint) 
 were seen placed over one another, in a convex man- 
 ner; and in the centre, a larger stone, nearly globu- 
 iar, two feet in diameter, covering a cell on the 
 ground two feet square, which was tbrmed by four 
 stones of considerable size, placed upriglit on their 
 edges. In this cave, or Kitvaen, the urn was found 
 inverted, containing the ashes and th-? burnt bones 
 of a youth, as was probable from their being small, 
 and with little muscular impression. When tiie urn 
 was removed, these appeared as white as snow, but 
 lost that whiteness soon after they were exposed to 
 the air. These were supposed to have been the re- 
 mains of a person of dignity, whose surviving friends, 
 in honour to his memory, had taken care to have them 
 well burnt and blanched by the intenseness of the 
 fire. The bones remaining half burnt, was consi- 
 dered by the Greeks as the highest disgrace that could 
 be offered to the dead body. 
 
 Haldon-house, the seat of Sir Lawrence Palk, Bart. 
 is situated at the north-western extremity of the Vale 
 of Kenn, about four miles and a half south of Exeter, 
 in the midst of a demesne of 450 acres. The house 
 stands on an elevated situation, commanding from 
 its principal front an extensive and beautiful view, 
 comprehending the Vale of Kenn, the Belvidere, and 
 the Powderham Plantations, &c. on the south-east, 
 and on the Exe, Woodsbury-hill, Sidmouth-hill, and 
 many other places. The house was built by Sir 
 George Chudleigh, Bart., about the year 1735, and 
 at length by purchase became the property of the late 
 Sir Robert Palk. 
 
 There are several good paintings at this house, 
 chiefly landscapes, and a library containing some very 
 valuable manuscripts, relating wholly to the history of
 
 92 TOPOGRAPHICAL DESCRIPTION OF 
 
 Devonshire, and a cabinet of curious medals, from 
 the late Dr. Trapp's collection. 
 
 The grounds are beautifully laid out, and anildst 
 the flourishing plantations which cover Haldon-hill to 
 the west and south, there is a castellated building 
 of three stories, dedicated by the above-mentioned 
 Sir Robert Palk to the memory of his friend Gene- 
 ral Lawrence, whose services in India were so valua- 
 ble to his country. A statue of the general, as large 
 as life, on a pedestal of black marble, is placed at 
 the entrance. 
 
 From the top of this hill, which is 818 feet above 
 the level of the sea, towards the left, is a fine view of 
 Exeter, Topsham, Lympstone, and Exmouth. On 
 the right bank of the Exe may be seen Powderhara- 
 castle, George Clack, Esq.; beyond it, the woods of 
 the Right Hon. Sir George Hewett, Bart., at Mam- 
 head. Here is also a view of Mount Radford, 
 H. Porter, Esq. ; and of Nutwell-court, Sir T. T. Fuller 
 Elliott Drake, Bart.; High Torr Rocks, Oxton- 
 house, &c. 
 
 The southern extremity of this town, called the 
 Strand, is by far the most pleasant : here the river 
 flows within a short distance from the houses, which 
 are chiefly occupied by persons of distinction. The 
 prospect here is highly interesting, embracing a range 
 of mountains, distant shipping, a beautifully verdant 
 vale, and churches occasionally glimmering through 
 woods, crowded with majestic timber. 
 
 Topsham, in 1821, contained 567 houses, and 3156 
 inhabitants. 
 
 Just beyond the five-mile stone on the left hand, 
 is Ebford-house, the residence of T. H. Lee, Esq. ; 
 and on the summit of the hill, a little further on, that 
 of Sir Digory Forest, hr.ving a fine view of the ocean 
 and the country south-west to a considerable dis- 
 tance. About seven miles onward to the right, on 
 the banks of the Exe, is the noble mansion of Major 
 Drake, lately belonging to Lord Heathfield : a mo-
 
 Dl.VO.NMlIUE. 93 
 
 dern !)uilt house, {t\;oiit three quarters ol" it iniie tioin 
 itie road, from which it is entirely concealed : con- 
 tiguous to it are some reniair.s of the old builiiiiig, 
 \vhich formerly belun<:ed to Sir Francis Drake, i he 
 extensive stables were built by Lord Heatlifield, for 
 propaj/ating a l^rced of the iinest Arabian Ijorses in 
 Great Britain. 
 
 Between Topshnni and Exmonth is the village of 
 Lymi'SIone, anciently called I^nii)|;ston, pleasantly 
 situated on the eastern border of the nver Kxe. 
 The church at the end of the villa<:e, forms, uitli the 
 surrounding scenery, a very picturesque object. This 
 building was erected on the site of the old church 
 in 1-109. 
 
 About two miles from hence is Exmoutii, for- 
 merly an inconsiderable tishing-towii, now become 
 one of the most nourishing watering-i)laces in the 
 kingdom, an)ply atlbrding ail sorts of accommodations 
 and conveniences to its visitors. 
 
 Exmonth is the oldest watering-place in Devon- 
 shire, and the commodious houses on the Beacon 
 command one of the finest views in the kingdom. 
 The Beacon houses, with those in Bicton-place, and 
 the lower parts of the town, are sheltered from the 
 north and south-cast winds; and the heights of Hal- 
 don preserve Exmouth from that unpleasant humi- 
 dity of atmosphere too prevalent in some parts of 
 South Devon. The soil round Exmouth is dry, and 
 the temperature of the air so mild, that winter sel- 
 dom begins till after Christmas, or continues hunger 
 than six weeks. The climate here is lookfd up(jn to 
 be something like that of Pisa in Italy, in befriend- 
 ing weak lungs. 
 
 But what adds more perhaps to the beaury of the 
 prospect than any other circumstance, is a sun which 
 beems to shine brighter and longer than in must 
 parts of England, especially towards evening, when 
 the sky frequently assumes an Italian lustre. On the 
 left, in the approach from Exeter to Exmouth, there 
 is a sheltered valley extending nearly two miles, pro-
 
 94 TOPOGRAPH rCAL DESCRIPTION OF 
 
 tected on all sides from the winds, and affording a 
 salutary retreat to invalids, particularly the co7i~ 
 siimptixe. At the entrance stands Marpool-hall, be- 
 longing to T. \V. Hull, Esq, 
 
 Exmouth is not so much exposed to the piercnig 
 winds of March, as Teignmouth, Dawlish, Sidmouth, 
 and some other parts of Great Britain. Even the 
 night air at Exmouth is dry and warm ; and the bar 
 breaks the force of the waves so considerably, that 
 boats which do not attempt passing beyond it, may 
 row in safety even during winter. Another circum- 
 stance of great importance to invalids, is the excellent 
 medical aid which may always be procured at Exmouth, 
 from its vicinity to Exeter, besides that of a resident 
 physician. 
 
 With respect to walks, nothing can be pleasanter 
 than the sands after spring-tides, and the cliff-fields 
 in fine weather. During winter the rock-walk, made 
 and kept up at the expence of the pubhc, is always 
 dry, and generally speaking warm : but besides these 
 walks, there is on the Beacon a delightful terrace 
 made some years since by Lord Rolle, to whom the 
 manor of Exmouth belongs, who also embellished the 
 cliffs and plantations, and the square, with a large 
 garden abounding in choice shrubs and flowers. The 
 markets on Wednesday and Saturday are well sup- 
 plied with meat; fish, poultry, and vegetables also 
 abound. The hotels at Exmouth, are the Globe and 
 the London ; and at both of these a stage-coach may 
 be had, that goes to and returns from Exeter three 
 or four times a week. Manchester-house is let on 
 the same terms as the lodging-houses, and contains 
 good apartments; but linen and plate, lodgers are 
 always expected to find themselves : yet even these 
 may be hired without difficulty. Even sedan-chairs, 
 bath-chairs, double horses and donkies, are kept for 
 the accommodation of lodgers. Besides a billiard- 
 room, here are two circulating libraries, and a reading- 
 room at the Globe. The bathing-machines are 
 placed within the bar, and so much protected, that
 
 DEVONSHIRE. 95 
 
 ladies may bathe almost every day in the year. litre 
 is also a commodious warm sea-bath and a shower- 
 bath. 
 
 Messrs. Black and Rowe, surgeons and apothe- 
 caries, have a commodious warm sea-bath ; and Mr. 
 Land has a shower-bath, in addition to a sea-bath. 
 
 Among the improvements is the continuation of 
 Bicton-place, to the entrance from the Budleigh- 
 road, and the new Gothic church opposite the l)igliest 
 part of the street, erected at the sole cxpcnce of 
 Lord Rolle. 
 
 The ferry over the Exe may be crossed at all 
 limes, except in a hard gale of wind, and carriages 
 are seldom impeded by this more than a few huurs. 
 The excursion from Exmouth by water to Fowder- 
 ham-castle, is a delightful row ot about an hour and 
 a half To Wamhead is about six or seven miles; 
 and to Ugbrook, Lord Cliftord's seat, about ten. 
 The distance from Exmouth to Sidmouth, l)y the 
 summer road, is twelve miles, and by the winter 
 road, fourteen. Opposite Exmouth is the Warren, a 
 large sandy tract, apparently thrown up by the sea. 
 Near the \Varreii is Star Cross, a village which ex- 
 tends along the banks of the Exe, and contains 
 several goocl houses. 
 
 Between Exmouth and Sidmouth is LiTrLEiiA>f, a 
 small fishing-town, formerly part of the possessions of 
 the Abbey of Sherbourne. 
 
 Littleham-church is distinguished by a small stone 
 cross rising from the apex of the roof over the eastern 
 \vindow, and a small embattled tower. Here are no 
 monuments of any particular note. 
 
 Tidwell is a village in the parish of Budleigh, an- 
 ciently belonging to the family of St. Cleere, \vho had 
 a noble mansion^ here. Next to Tidwell is Budleigh, 
 anciently Bodley ; the small market here kept on Mon- 
 day, was formerly held on Sunday. The church, dedi- 
 cated to All Saints, is a handsome stone building with 
 a square tower eighty feet high, with a clock, and five 
 bells. There is also a small Dissenting chapel. Huyi,
 
 96 TOrOGKAl'HICAL DESCK1PH0N Oi 
 
 in tl)ib parish, is celebrated as the birth-place ol" ihc 
 t'amous Sir Walter Raleigh. 
 
 Budleigh Salterton, about mid-way between Sid- 
 raouth and Exmouth, is a retired watering-place, and 
 is indebted to Lord Rolle for a small Episcopal chapel, 
 and to the late well-known Mr. Lackington the book- 
 seller, for a neat chapel for the Wesleyan Methodists. 
 
 Having pasi.cd the river Otter, and Otterton, a small 
 fishing-town, without noticing any thing of import- 
 ance, we observe Sidmouth, distant from Otterton 
 three miles; from Salterton seven ; from pAmouth ten; 
 from Topsliam twelve; from Exeter fifteen ; from St. 
 Mary Ottery seven; from Harpford four; from IIo- 
 niton nine; from Coly ton nine; from .*!featon ten; from 
 Beer seven; from Branscombe five; ftom Salconjbe 
 two; from Axminster fifteen; from Lyme sixteen; and 
 from Charmouth eighteen. 
 
 Sidmouth, of late years become a fashionable water- 
 ing-place, is about 159 miles from London, situated 
 between two romantic x\lpine hills at the mouth o-f 
 the little river Sid, in a bay between Exmouth and 
 Lyme Regis. It has a bold open shore, and many of 
 its newest houses are ranged upon tlie beach, which 
 is defended from the attacks of the ocean by a natural 
 rampart of pebbles rising in four or five successive 
 stages from the surface of the sea allow water. With 
 every tide, the exterior parts of this shifting wall 
 assume a different situation; are sunk either higher or 
 lower, are driven to the east or the west, according to 
 the strength or direction of the wind. At low water 
 considerable spaces of fine hard sand are visible; these 
 afford a pleasant walk, but are frequently interrupted 
 by collections of stones, and streams that find their 
 way through the pebbles to their parent ocean : in dry 
 weather, however, these streams are very inconsider- 
 able. At the head of this shingly rampart, a broad 
 and commodious walk, called the Beach, furnishes a 
 delightful promenade. It is nearly a third of a mile 
 m length, is kept well rolled, and furnished at the 
 p>.tremitics and bome other parts with convenient
 
 DtVON<iHtnE. 97 
 
 doulilfc beat', from whicli eitlicr the laiul or tlie sea 
 may be comemplnted with every advantage. Close 
 lo the walk, and about the middle otit, is a tolerably 
 spacioub covered retreat, called The Shedj in which, 
 as it is benched all round, and open otdy to the sea, a 
 most strikinjtj view of that snblime object may at all 
 times be obtained. Large parties are frequently 
 chr.ttinv in this recess; and the weak invalid here finds 
 a spot in which, defended from every wind but the 
 saluhrlons south, he can inhale those breezes, which 
 so frequently sii!?pend the ravatie of disease, pour fresh 
 oil into the lamp of life, and send him back a reno- 
 vated being. 
 
 " As a waterino-place," says tlje author of Sidmouth 
 Scenery, (a debcri[)tire sketch of the place, published, 
 with nnmerous engravings, by J. Walli? at the Marine 
 Library), " Sidmouth, in its natural advantai^es, yields 
 to none, and exceeds many ot those retreats of Hi/gciUf 
 which utility and fashion have found out, on almost 
 all the coasts of our island; an air mild and salubrious; 
 a soil uncommonly fertile; the purest water C(ynlinually 
 flowing; and a 'situation deft iidvd from e.ery wiiid but 
 the south, p\L- it a pre-eminence over most of those 
 places on our coasts, which are now bo cenerally re- 
 •^orted to, both for health and amusement." The 
 nundiL-r of houses in Sidmouth is about 480 ; and, 
 acct)rdint: to the census taken by order of Parlia- 
 ment in ISQ], the nuudier of inhabitants weie 2747. 
 Sidmonth is the winter residence of many invalids; 
 Dr. Matthews is the resident physician, with several 
 experienced and able surgeons and apothecaries. 
 
 There are three capital inns here — The London, 
 the New Ink, and the York Hotel. The assembly 
 and card-rtjoms are at the London Inn, and are large, 
 and well fitted up. The rooms are opened for cards 
 every night, and during the season, there is a ball 
 every Wednesday. 
 
 Tiie Ntn- Inn is upon a smaller scale than the other 
 two. At the London Inn and the York Hotel, post- 
 'haises are to be had. Wines, porter^ and liquors of 
 K
 
 98 TOPOGRAPHICAL DESCRIPTION OF 
 
 ail sorts are to be hatl, not only at the inns, but at 
 several vaults, and shops in the town. Provisions are 
 plentiful and good, and the supply, except in the 
 article offish, very regular. Saturdays and Tuesdays 
 are the market-days, but butchers reside in the town ; 
 and poultry, eggs, &c. are brought by the country 
 people to the doors of the inhabitants. Vegetables 
 and fruit are furnished by the gardeners of the phice. 
 Lodgings are numerous, scattered in every part of the 
 town and its vicinity ; but various in price and ac- 
 commodations. 
 
 The York Hotel, the two public libraries, VVallis's 
 and Marsh's, the billiard-room, and two sets of ex- 
 cellent warm and cold baths, are all upon the beach, 
 at the western end of which are the bathing-machines, 
 and an excellent spot for those bathers who do not 
 choose to make use of them. 
 
 Two or three gentlemen in the commission of the 
 peace, are residents, and, on the first Monday in every 
 month, a justice's meeting is held at the London Inn. 
 There is, also, an association for the protection ol* pro- 
 perty against poachers, and other depredators. 
 
 There are two fairs in the year, one on Easter 
 IMonday, and the other, which is the principal, on the 
 third Monday in September: neither of them are fairs 
 ol business. A very excellent course for horse-racing 
 has been recently formed upon Salcombe-hill, the 
 eastern boundary of Sidmouth, and raci^s are held 
 upon it, in the month of August. 
 
 The post-office is in Fore-street. The letters are 
 delivered every morning about nine o'clock. Letters 
 must be put into the office by half after six in the 
 evening; by paying a penny, however, with each letter, 
 they are received till seven o'clock, when the bag is 
 closed. A coach runs daily to and from Honilon ; it 
 leaves Sidmouth in time to meet, at Honiton, the Bath 
 and London coaches; it leaves Honiton every evening 
 at half past six, and arrives at Sidmouth between eight 
 and mne. A coach runs to and from Exeter, Monday, 
 Wednesday, and Friday; it leaves Sidniuulh at seven
 
 DEVON-llIRF. yQ 
 
 i:i the rnornine, and ri'tiirns before nine in the evening. 
 On the same days there are tico carriers, to and from 
 Kxetcr. 
 
 Pleasure-boats, sedan, and Batlj-chairs, horses, gisrs, 
 :uid donkie*, are all to be had upon reasonable terms. 
 At botli the hljr.irit.'S, the oUlest of uliich is Wallis's, 
 several I^^ndon and provincial nevsspajiers, as well as 
 reviews and maira/ines, are taken in, atul an extensive 
 nf^sorlment of b<joks, trinket?, and fancy articles, are 
 constantly on sale. At .Mari^h's library there is also a 
 new handsomeiasstmbly-room. 
 
 Exce[)t the billiard, card, and assembly-rooms, Sid- 
 njoiith has no place of public amusement. A theatre 
 has been twice attempted, hut has in both cases failed. 
 The last effort was made in the autumn of 1813. 
 
 The church, suppoM-d to be about 400 years old, is 
 a neat editlce, with a handsome tower, a clock, and 
 five bells: it is well pcwed, has a newly erected con- 
 venient pallery, an organ, and several mural moimments. 
 
 There are also two Di^senting meetings ; the old one 
 belonging to the Unitarians, and one erected for the 
 Cftlvinists; at the latter place a Sunday-!-chool is sup- 
 ported. A school, which lias a commodious school- 
 house, was instituted in 1812 for educating poor 
 children, according to Dr. Bell's plan. 
 
 In 1811 a Hible Society wab formed at Sidmouth ; 
 these have now become common almost in every town 
 and village in the county. 
 
 In 1815 T/ie Huniaml or Poors' Friend Society, was 
 instituted. 
 
 Among the number of single houses that oiibellish 
 the vicinity of Sidmouth, are those of Kmmanuel liaruh 
 Lousada, and George Cornish, Esqrs.: the former is a 
 neat object on the western declivity, and the latter is 
 equally interesting on the eastern slope. 
 
 From the grounds of Peck-house the spectator has 
 a fine view of the ocean, the white clilfs of Charmouth 
 and Bridport, and the bold jtromontory of Portland; 
 and from Salcombe-hiil an excellent nearer view of 
 the town, the little bav in which it is secluded, the 
 K 2
 
 100 TOl'OGRAPIIICAL DESCIUPriON OF 
 
 deep-ribbed side of the high peak, the western wing 
 of the e\er memorable Torbay, and the Start-point, 
 which appears plunging into the distant waves, and 
 beginning the line of demarcation betwixt the sky and 
 the land. The most extensive land view is to be had 
 from the eastern or Salcomhe-hill, the eye taking in a 
 distance of forty miles, and testing its farthest ken 
 upon the most elevated points of Dartmoor. To this 
 eastern hill, wiiich rises abruptly from the river, there 
 is a walk which, to overcome the steepness of the 
 ascent, takes a zigzag form with very acute angles. 
 At its foot a bridge is thrown across the river, which 
 brings the passenger very near the beach. This path 
 lias altogether a Swiss-like, Alpine appearance. On 
 the highest part of the Peak, which is the name of the 
 western hilj, is the signal-house erected during the late 
 war, and which appears to the spectator below like an 
 eagle's nest perched upon a rock. This, since the 
 peace, has of course been shut up. The Fort-field is 
 so called from a little fort with a flag-staff, and mounted 
 with four pieces of cannoii, which command the beach 
 and the bay. 
 
 In tlie rocks and lanes about Sidmouth the naturalist 
 may find materials for study and amusement; the 
 botanist may cull his plants, and the collector of 
 fossils, find many of the curious internal productions 
 of the earth. Beautiful photens are here to be met 
 with, and the stones of the cliffs often abound with 
 echiua marince, petrified coral, and other similar pro- 
 ductions. The cornu ammonis is to be found here of 
 all sizes; and a person in the town has one in the 
 common rounded form of an embellished metallic ap- 
 pearance about eighteen inches in diameter, which he 
 found in the cliffs near Portland. In the little basins 
 worn by the waves in the rocks, elegant corallines 
 abound ; and not unfrequently that singular production 
 of nature, the animal flower, commonly called the sea- 
 anemone. 
 
 Salcombe, or the salt vale, now called Salcombc 
 Regis, is a small parish, the loftv hill of which forms
 
 DEVONSHIRE. 101 
 
 the eastern boundary of Sidmoutli. Several newly 
 erected houses he in and near Sid or Seed-lane, 
 through which the road passes from Sidmouth to 
 Lyme Knowl, the property and residence of the Wool- 
 cots, and Stade-house, belonL;ing to W. Leigh, Esq. are 
 amono; the older mansions of this parish. The church 
 is an ancient and small structure. 
 
 Branscombe lies on the east of Salcombe. The 
 lofty hills which defend this parish from the sea, are 
 in many parts paralleled at a small distance by inland 
 hills, abounding with orchards, hanging woods, and 
 enclosures covered with grass and grain. About the 
 middle of this peaceful Tempc stands Branscombe- 
 church, the tinkling bell of which, when it floats 
 through the vale, suggests the idea of some lonely 
 convent, that at stated periods calls the scattered in- 
 habitants of an Alpine village to their unostentatious 
 devotions. TAree vallies, forming an irregular triangle, 
 meet near the church. Throngh each of these vallies 
 rapid streams descend, which, uniting in the bottom, 
 flow on together to the ocean, Wesion-housi.', be- 
 longing to J. Bartlet Stuckey, Esq. was built by the 
 late John Stuckey, Esq., and stands near Weston- 
 mouth, but has no view of the sea. Branscombe- 
 church, which is larger than St. Peter's at Salcombe, 
 is dedicated to St. Winifred, who is supposed to have 
 been a native of Devonshire. 
 
 Beer is a small place, lying between very steep 
 hills, about a mile from Seaton. It possesses a free- 
 stone quarry, from which many of its houses are built. 
 The cove has very deep water, and from its situation, 
 is capable of forming a very secure harbour. Great 
 quantities of fish are caught and brought in here, but 
 much the larger portion of them is sent off by contract, 
 to the markets of Bath and Taunton, and some even 
 to London. 
 
 Bovey, a very ancient seat in "his parish, was the 
 inheritance of the Walronds of Bradfield, near Col- 
 lumpton; it is a very old, irregular building of free- 
 stone, and is now the property of Lady Rolle, the 
 K 3
 
 102 TOPOGRAPHICAL DESCRIPTION OF 
 
 only surviving daughter of the late \\iliiam Wah'ond, 
 Esq. 
 
 The parish-church is dedicated to St. Gregory. It 
 is an ancient free-stone building, with a shited roof, 
 and a low tower, containing four bells. In this parish 
 there is a Dissenting chapel. On an eminence called 
 South Dozon, is a most delightful and extensive pros- 
 pect, by sea, from Portland to the Start Point, and 
 by land, of a great part of the counties of Devon, 
 Dorset, and Somerset. 
 
 Seaton is a small town, " lying full upon the sea," 
 irregularly built, and consisting chiefly of one street. 
 Its situation is low and marshy ; the hedges are well 
 wooded, and tiie roads, though narrow, are good, and 
 afford very pleasant wnlks and rides. Its compa- 
 ratively retired situation renders it acceptable to 
 many invalids : the main public walk is, like that at 
 Sidmouth, the beach. 
 
 CoLYTON, about a mile to the north of Coeytord, 
 a small village, through which runs the tnrnpike-road 
 from Sidmouth to Lyme, is a small market-town, on 
 the western side of the river Coly, where it falls into 
 the Axe. It is a compact little place, has a good 
 market-house, a school-house, a neat Presbyterian 
 chapel, and a new one, erected a few years ago, by 
 the Calvinistic Dissenters. The church, dedicated to 
 St. Andrew, is a large, handsome structure. The 
 tower, which is octagonal, upon a square base, con- 
 tains six bells. The burial-place of the De-la-Poles, 
 which is highly ornamented, is on the south side of 
 the chancel, and on the north, is a burial-place, the 
 property of Sir George Yonge's family. Captain 
 Wilson, the discoverer of the Felezv Islands, is buried 
 in this church. 
 
 SuuTE is a small parish, on the western side of the 
 Axe. It contains the small village of Whilford, and 
 2^ew Shute-hojisey a noble mansion, the residence of 
 Sir William De-la-Pole. It is a fine stone building, 
 delightfully situated on Shute-hill, and about four 
 miles from the sea. The church of Shute is dedicated
 
 DEV0N5I1IRK. 105 
 
 to St. Peter; it is a small stone cilitice, and coutains 
 iev-eral nionuineiits belonging tj the Dc-la-Poles and 
 Teai piers. 
 
 A-t a small distance from Col y ford-bridge, on the 
 right hand of the road, going towards Lyme, is Sted- 
 co/nbt, the charniiniily situated residence of the liov. 
 Mr. Hiillct. The Usual road from.Sidniouth to Exeter, 
 ]oa\inL' the village iA Harpford on the right hand, lies 
 throimh Newtov Poi»1'LEiord, and St. MaryL'lv^t. 
 Sr. Maiiy (JjTEiiY is three miles bevond liarpford. 
 The r/oe.7, which takes its name tV(jm tiiis place, is 
 Hreatly and deservedly admired, and is the object of 
 many an excursion from the country round it. The 
 church, a small low building, uiih a tower and three 
 bells, is dedicated to St. Gregory. 
 
 The Otier is here crossed by an «dd stone bridge of 
 five arches, near which stands the factory, erected 
 some year> ago, for the spinning ot" wocd; it is a neat 
 vviiite building, and beautifully situated. 
 
 NfcW'ioN FoppLEFORD coiisists of ouc loug, mcau- 
 looking street, in which there are two public-houses 
 dignilJed with the name of mn-.. About the middle of 
 the place is a snxall chapel, lately repairefl, dedicated 
 to St. Luke. At a little distance, the L'alvinistic Dis- 
 senters ha\e a small meeting-house called Providence 
 Chapc/y at which the minister from Sidrntjulh olHciatcs 
 on the Sunday afternoon. 
 
 St. IMaiiy Clyst stands upon the river Grindle. 
 The valley through which this stream runs is very flat, 
 and the length of the bridge, which is narrow, is a 
 proof of the extent to which the meadows are some- 
 times inundated on each side. 
 
 Clyst-lwu^e is a large, square, white building, stand- 
 ing in a lawn of about sixty acres. The church of 
 Clyst is aa ancient edifice. 
 
 Between Sidmouth and Exmouth lie tiie following 
 places : Otterton, Bictoti, Woodburi/ Budkig/i, Bud- 
 leigh Saltcrton, and Littlcliam. Otterton and Bicton 
 . are very plainly to be seen from Peak-hill. 
 
 BiCTON, a fine park, in which are a great number of
 
 104 TOPOGRAPHICAL DESCRIPTION OF 
 
 large and venerable trees, particularly oaks and beeches, 
 is the property and residence of Lord Rolle, who, a 
 few years ago, completed in it a noble mansion, in 
 which are some excellent statues and paintings. The 
 church of Bicton, dedicated to the Holy Trinity, is 
 thus described by Polwhele : " It is a small, but neat 
 building. Its situation is most romantic. Placed in 
 silence and solitude, it stands embowered amidst the 
 fine deep foliage of forest trees that surround it at a 
 little distance, and interweave their branches, as if to 
 secure it from every prying eye." 
 
 Woodbury, so called from the woods which an- 
 ciently grew upon it, is a parish with eight small 
 villages: the principal, denominated Chuixh Village, 
 lies nearly in the centre of the parish, and has a church 
 built in 1409, and dedicated to St. Swithin. 
 
 Here, about a mile and a half from the road, is 
 Nutzvell-court, Sir Thomas Trayton Fuller Elliott 
 Drake, Bart. This was formerly a castle, but con- 
 verted into a dwelling-house in the time of Edward IV. 
 The last possessor rebuilt this mansion on an enlarged 
 ffcale, and at a great expence. The plantations also 
 have been considerably extended. 
 
 Woodbury-casde stands on the edge of a very high 
 hill, and is deeply entrenched. 
 
 SiDFORD, and SiDBURy, are the only places through 
 which the road from Sidmouth to Honiton passes, and 
 perhaps no portion of road in the kingdom exceeds 
 in richness and beauty the new cut from Gittisham- 
 hill, by which the old, steep, and zigzag descent at 
 Pin-hill is completely avoided. Sidford is a small 
 place, lying two miles from Sidmouth, and exactly 
 mid-way between Exeter and Lyme. 
 
 SiDBURY, in which several new houses have been 
 lately erected, including a residence for the parish 
 minister, is, upon the whole, but a mean-looking plac6. 
 It has an ancient stone bridge of one arch over the 
 Sid, and two places of worship, a church, and a Dis- 
 senting meeting-house. Both are situated near Court- 
 Jiall, the old manor-house. The church is dedicated
 
 DLVOKSIIIRE. l(J.J 
 
 ti) St. Giles. A little way beyond Sidbury, towards 
 lloniton, is CoteiJ'ord-house, the pleasant rebidence ot" 
 Jostpli Jenkins, Esq.; and under the end of Castle- 
 hill, is the house of W. Guppy, Esq. uhich commands 
 a wonderfully fine and extensive prospect of Sidmouth 
 and its vicinity. Both at Sidbury and Sidford, and 
 indeed in all the neiL^hbonrhood, for many miles about, 
 ^reat quantities of thread-lacc are made, some of 
 which is extremely fine and beautiful. But after all 
 , it lias been remarked, as a melancholy consideration, 
 that so much comfort and health are sacrificed in 
 producing tliese trilling articles of decoration. The 
 sedentary nature of this employment, and the early 
 a^oof the poor children confined to it, n.-akea terrible 
 havoc < f life and health. The sallow complexions, the 
 rickety frauies, and the general appearance of languor 
 and debility, are sad and decisive proofs of the pernicious 
 nature of the employment. The small unwholesome 
 rooms in which numbers of these females, especially 
 during their apprenticeship, are crowded together, are 
 great aggravations of this evil. It is no wonder that 
 the otlVjiring of such mothers, in a majority of in- 
 stances, are a puny, feeble, and frequently a short- 
 lived race. The confmemenl of the children, ten 
 hours a-day, is too rigid; and even then, if they had not; 
 completed their task, tliey were not released, but de- 
 prived of the little time in which they should have 
 been regaining the use of their cramped limbs. 
 
 Another hardship, in the cas..' of the Devonshire 
 lace-makers, is the manner in which tliey have been 
 generally paid for their labour. Thtir employers, who 
 keep huckster's shops, obliged them to purchase what- 
 ever they deal in, and frequently articles they did not 
 want; and if money was insisted upon, a penny has 
 been unfeelingly and unjustly deducted out of a 
 shilling. 
 
 Approaching Honiton, the pretty village of Gittis- 
 hanj opens on the left liand, and soon after, the rich, 
 extensive, and highly cultivated vale is fully developed. 
 The white church of Up-Otterv is a principal feature
 
 106 TOPOGRAPHICAL DESCRIPTION OF 
 
 in the distance, and several large and handsome sinojc 
 houses are scattered over the sylvan and verdant 
 scenes, stretching on one side to the borders of Somer- 
 setshire, and on the left hand to Exeter. From one 
 of the clumps of firs that ornament the broad back of 
 Gittishara-hill, just before the road descends, on the 
 Honiton side of the hill, we gain a view of the town 
 stretching itself in the vale below, and apparently 
 running away from its churcli. The situation of 
 Honiton is delightful; it is surrounded with fine arable 
 and pasture lands. The river Otter that runs near it 
 is but small, but its windings enrich the landscape. 
 Honiton consists principally of one long street, runnin.g 
 east and west, well paved with broad flag-stones, and 
 a stream of fine clear water runs through the town, 
 with dipping-places at every door. The middle of the 
 street was too long encumbered with shambles for the 
 sale of meat and vegetables. 
 
 The parish church being so inconveniently situated, 
 in 1743, a plain handsome stone edifice was built as a 
 chapel of ease, and besides this there are two Dissenting 
 meeting-houses. A charity-school was opened here 
 in 1713; and a small hospital stands upon the Exeter 
 road, about a quarter of a mile from the town, which 
 with a chapel, was founded and endowed for four 
 lepers, by one Thomas Chard, an abbot. By a re- 
 gulation made in 1642, other poor persons, as well as 
 lepers, were admitted. 
 
 Honiton has suffered considerably by fires; in 1747 
 three-fourths of the town were consumed. In 1765 
 and 1797 also terrible fires took place: hence several 
 substantia] houses erected by the Phoenix Fire-office 
 add to the beauty of the town, and prove the utihty of 
 such establishments. 
 
 The principal inns are the Dolphin, and the Golden 
 Lion. 
 
 Four miles distant from Honiton is Wolford-lodge, 
 Mrs. Simcoej situated on the south side of a lofty 
 range of hills commanding some beautiful prospects ; 
 and near it, on a projecting hill, is a large triple en-
 
 DEVONSHIRE. 107 
 
 trenchment, called Hembury-lbrl, supposed to have 
 been a Roman fortification. 
 
 Proceeding tVom Honitun towards Monk ton, the 
 small church here seems nearly surrounded with firs, 
 and stands close by the road-side and near a cottage; 
 here the road begins to be narrow and secluded. 
 
 Luppit is a little hamlet, which also lies on the left 
 hand ; here is a small Dissenting place of worship, over 
 which Dr. William Harris, well known as a biographer, 
 presided many years. His Lives are written in the 
 manner of Bayle, and have this peculiarity, viz. that 
 the notes are considerably more bulky than the text. 
 As books of reference, such works are very useful; 
 every assertion is established by its proper authorities, 
 and a great number of anecdotes are generally intro- 
 duced, which an historian, writing in the common way, 
 would omit. Dr. Harris in this manner wrote Memoirs 
 of James T., Charles I., Oliver Cromwell, Hugh Peters, 
 and Charles II. 
 
 From Luppit, the road rises all the way to the little 
 village of Up-Ottery, A neat church and a good inn 
 are ornament and accommodation to this little place, 
 further distinguished by a neat farm-house and estate 
 belonging to Lord Sidmouth. 
 
 From Up-Ottery, the road still continues to ascend; 
 and at length gaining a level, winds round the arti- 
 ficial and upper base of a considerable hill. Some 
 dilapidated walls, and firs planted in an avenue form, 
 indicate the relics of departed greatness; and a rude 
 cottage or two are the only habitations on the spot. 
 After a descent of soine length, the road again rises 
 and leads to the extensive level, across which the 
 boundary line between Devonshire and Somersetshire 
 is drawn, called Blackdown. This name indicates the 
 general sterility of this extensive and elevated com- 
 mon, over which a considerable number of small sheep 
 are scattered. 
 
 Returning to Exeter, we shall makeTrom thence our 
 intended excursion to Teignmouth. 
 
 Four miles from Exeter, nearly opposite Topsham,
 
 108 TOPOGRArmCAL DESCKIPTIOM OF' 
 
 is Exmiiister, a very pleasant village on the west of 
 the river Exe. Leland, in the reign of Henry VIII. 
 noticed it as a very pretty little town. The Coiirtenays, 
 Earls of Devon, had once a very extensive mansion 
 here. 
 
 Powderham-castle, three miles from hence, is sup- 
 posed to have been built by Isabella de Fortibus, the 
 last descendant of the great family of Rivers. Siie 
 died in the reign of Edward the First. 
 
 The modern mansion, a few years since the resi- 
 dence of Lord Courtenay, is now the seat of George 
 Ckxke, Esq. It contains some very spacious apart- 
 ments, furnished in the most sumptuous manner, and 
 decorated with paintings of considerable merit. The 
 park and plantations are about ten miles in circum- 
 ference, and contain a variety of fine shrubs and ma- 
 jestic forest trees. On the summit of the highest 
 ground is the triangular tower, called the Belvidcre, 
 with hexagonal ornaments at each corner. The pros- 
 pects from hence are extremely grand, embracing 
 among others, complete views of Topshara with its 
 shipping ; the river Exe, winding from the sea up to 
 Exeter; the ornamented heights of Woodbury-hitl, the 
 village of Lympstone, the hills on Dartmoor, Exeter 
 with its cathedral, and a large tract of fertile country, 
 interspersed with several beautiful seats. 
 
 The tower itself is also a conspicuous object from 
 the British Channel. 
 
 One mile to the west of Powderham-castle is 
 Kenton, a small village; the manor of which has a 
 curious custom— that if the issue ofany of the tenants 
 liold their tenements, one after another, three de- 
 scents, they may claim the inheritance of the tenement. 
 The church of Kenton is a handsome building of red 
 stone, with a tower 100 feet high. The interior is 
 ornamented with various antique carved work and 
 rude painting. 
 
 About a mile from Kenton is Oxton-house, the scat 
 of the Ilev. John Swete. The house stands upon an 
 eminence, at the junction of three narrow rallies, with
 
 dev()KSJi;i;e. 109 
 
 Haklon-liill bt'tiiiid. This deJightfully sequest.ered 
 mansion is rendered peculiarly picturesque and inte- 
 resting by ihe extensive ornamented grounds around it, 
 and the beautiful prospects from various parts of the 
 estate. 
 
 About two miles south-west from Kenton is Mam- 
 head, formerly the seat of VVilmot Lord Lisburne, de- 
 serving particular notice, as one of the most beautiful 
 and ornamental places in the county. The mansion 
 was begun to be built by Sir Peter Balle, an eminent 
 loyalist, who died in 1680, The late Lord Lisburne, 
 upon coming into possession of this estate, commenced 
 apian of very extensive improvements, which has been 
 carried into elfect with the happiest success. The 
 obelisk, which stands on Mamhead Point, is built of 
 Portland stone, and is about 100 feet in height. 
 
 The plantations at Mamhead are some of the finest 
 in the county, and contain a great variety of fine trees: 
 many were brought from the shores of the Mediter- 
 Eivnean by Mr. Balle. These plantations extend to the 
 summits of Ilaldovvn. 
 
 In the parish of Mamhead there is an estate and 
 mansion called Newhouse ; formerly a considerable 
 seat, but long left to decay, through the unfortunate 
 situation of the proprietor, under mental derangement. 
 
 Mamhead is now the seat of the Right Hon. Sir 
 George Hewett, Bart. The house stands on a fine 
 lawn, whose smooth verdure is relieved by clumps of 
 trees and shrubs judiciously disposed. The woods and 
 plantations are numerous and extensive, and include 
 various beautiful prospects of sea, river, and country. 
 Towards Haldon, the fine forest trees are crowned by 
 the noble obelisk before mentioned which, as a sea- 
 mark, is highly beneficial to mariners. 
 
 Mamhead formerly belonged to the family of Night- 
 ingale : the beautiful monument by Uoubiliac in West- 
 mijister-abbey, commemorates a tragical event which 
 occurred in the grounds of Mamhead, when Mrs. 
 Nightingale was struck dead by lightning in lier 
 husband's arms. 
 
 L
 
 110 TOrOGHAPHICAL DESCRIPTION Of 
 
 About two iniles and a half to the south ot Mani- 
 Jiead is Uawlish, wiiich from a small lishing cove has 
 lisenin a f'evv years to a state of comparative elegance. 
 At first it was resorted to by a lew invalids, who 
 wished for more retireniejit than they could enjoy at 
 places more frequented ; but the mild and genial soft- 
 ness of the air, and the natural attractions of this place, 
 could not long escape general notice. Among a num- 
 ber of good houses here, a singular imitation of a Gothic 
 structure, erected by Sir William Watson, is particu- 
 larly distinguishable. It has a kind of arcade in front, 
 with columns and pointed arches, decorateil with 
 escutcheons and fret-work pinnacles, and stands in a 
 garden upon one of the cliffs, commanding a view for 
 a considerable way, both towards Teignmcuth and the 
 opening of Torbay. Other new houses have also been 
 built upon the cliffs, intended as lodging-houses of a 
 superior description. The bathing-machines here are 
 numerous and well conducted ; and the beach in the 
 front of the lodging-houses has a gentle descent to the 
 sea, which is generally pure and clear. Though there 
 is no regular market, by a frequent communication 
 with Exeter and other towns, the place is pretty well 
 supplied. 
 
 The late improvements at Dawlish have rendered it 
 one of the most fashionable watering-places on the 
 coast. Public rooms and a library have been built. 
 A canal has been formed through* the centre of the 
 town, and several ranges of new houses have been 
 erected. There is a beautiful walk under the rocks to 
 Mount Pleasant. In Dr. Downman's Poem on In- 
 fancy, the following apostrophe appears : 
 
 O Dawlish, though unclassic be thy name, 
 
 By every muse unsung ; should, from thy tide, 
 
 To keen poetic eyes alone reveal'd, 
 
 From the cerulean bosom of the deep, 
 
 (As Aphrodites rose of old) appear 
 
 Health's blooming goddess, and benignant smile 
 
 Oiiher true votary; not Cythcrea's fame,
 
 ■DEVONSHIRE. Ill 
 
 Nt)t Eryx, nor the liiurel boughs ihat wav'u 
 
 On Delos, erst Apollo's natal soil, 
 
 However warm enthusiastic youth 
 
 Dwelt on these seats enamour'd, shall to me 
 
 Be half so dear. To thee will I consign 
 
 Often the timid virgin to thy pure 
 
 Encircling waves; to thee will I consign 
 
 The feeble matron ; or the child on whom 
 
 Thou mayest bestow a second happier birth 
 
 From weakness into strength. And should I view, 
 
 UnfetterVI, with the firm sound judging mind, 
 
 Imagination to return array 'd 
 
 In her once glowing rest, to thee my lyre 
 
 Sliall oft be tun'd, and to thy Nereids green, 
 
 Lung, long unnotic'd in their haunts retii-'d. 
 
 Nor will I cease to prize thy lovely strand, 
 
 Thy towering cliffs, nor the small babbling brook, 
 
 Whose shallow current laves thy thistled vale." 
 
 About one mile from Dawlish church, in a narrow 
 valley, is Luscorabe-house, the scat of Charles Hoare, 
 Esq. an elegant mansion ; and about three miles from 
 Dawlish is Teignmouth, or rather the two Teignmouths, 
 distinguished by East and West, situated near the 
 afflux of the Teign, which rises in Dartmoor. There 
 is a market every Saturday at West Teignmouth for 
 poultry, butchers' meat, and fish of various kinds, and 
 the inhabitants have a privilege of supplying themselves 
 with this article before anv is sold to the dealers. 
 Teignmouth-house is one of the best here ; but there 
 are several other elegant dwellings. The church, 
 nearly in the centre of the town, is in the form of a 
 cross ; its roof is supported by the ramifications of a 
 wooden }.illar running up the middle, erected at the 
 expcnce of a Mr. i\Jartyn, commonly called Golden 
 Martian. The altar-piece is of massy stone, very 
 curiously sculptured, but the niches in the same have 
 been long since deprived of the images that filled 
 them. There are three galleries in this church, the 
 last erected in IBl'^; and here arc several neat uionu- 
 
 L-a
 
 il2 TOPOGRAPHICAL DF.5CRIFTI0X OF 
 
 ments. The number of Dissenters is not many, thoueli 
 a neat Dissenting chapel has been erected in the parish 
 of East Teignmouth. 
 
 In tlie eastern town, the public library, the rooms, 
 and the shops, generally attract visitors, from their 
 vicinity to the Uen^ which is the principal promenade. 
 Some persons have objected to the frequent showers 
 liere; but the soil is so gravelly, that in half an hour 
 after a storm of rain, pedestrians may walk about East 
 Teignmouth without the fear of soiling their shoes. 
 But as East Teignmouth supplies the best lodgings, 
 furnished or unfurnished, this is now the grand resort 
 of company. The bathing-machines are numerous 
 and commodious, and the beach of smooth sands gra- 
 dually slopes to the sea, generally clear and clean, 
 and sheltered from all except the east winds. The 
 public rooms consist of apartments for tea, coftee, an 
 assembly, and billiards ; and balls are held more or 
 less frequently, according to (he wishes of the com- 
 pany. The church of East Teignmouth is near the 
 beach, and seems to be of Norman architecture, as 
 I)as been inferred from the round tower. The narrow- 
 windows with semicircular arches, and the heads of 
 men and animals, which are placed as ornamental sup- 
 ports to the parapet, are striking objects. 
 
 Here are two inns, the Globe and the Hotel ; from 
 the former a coach goes and returns the same day 
 thrice a week for Exeter. From the billiard-room 
 belonging to the hotel there is an extensive view up 
 the river. What is called " The Walk" here, leads 
 from the rooms towards the south, over a low flat be- 
 tween the hills called the Den, a track of fine sand, 
 interspersed with patches of grass. Seats are here 
 placed in the most favourable situations for enjoying 
 views of the sea, the cliifs, and the range of the const. 
 Another walk leads to the westward of the town by 
 the grove near Britton, and tl;e banks of the river ; 
 and from East Teignmouth church, a third walk leads 
 towards Dawlish, under the cliffs. 
 
 To visit Shaldon, it is only necessary to cross the
 
 DEVON SHI HE. 113 
 
 Tfign by a ferry. Several lodging-houses have lately 
 been built in this cliarming village. Among the walks 
 about it, that upon the beach is most frequented. 
 
 The bathing-machines at Tcignmonth, twelve in 
 number, are ready at six o'clock in the morniu'j, and 
 (l>e conductori are in attendance till one or two in the 
 afternoon. 
 
 Mrs. Hubbard's hot-baths, near Spring-gardens, have 
 every acconmiodation attached to them, and attend- 
 ance iVom SLven in the morning till ten at night. The 
 public library, reading, billiard-mom, and printing- 
 oliice, is kept by Mr. Croydon. It is a new and ele- 
 L'ant building, and its various departments are fitted 
 up with every possible convenience. Besides books, 
 music, and drawings, are here let on hire, and here 
 may be read the Western Luminary, Exeter Flying 
 i*o.-t, Woohner's Gazette, the Plymouth and Dock 
 Telegraph. 
 
 Inns: The London Hotel, Mrs. Hubbard. The 
 Globe Tavern on the Strand, ]Mr. William Parker. — 
 'J'he l*o5t-otfice is at the west end of the town. The 
 mail goes out every evening at half past six; arrives in 
 'i'eignmouth at seven; and the letters are delivered 
 out every morning at eight o'clock. Pleasure-boats 
 may be hired here, as may also jaunting cars for land 
 excursions; coaches also run almost every day in the 
 week to Exeter : to these vehicles may be added 
 donkeys, ^edan-chairs, bath-cliairs, waggons, and single 
 liorses. 
 
 SEIN DRAWING. 
 
 In addition to the balls, the theatre, ike. some 
 novelty, if not entertainment, is afforded to the vi- 
 sitors in seeing this mode of fishing, and the costume 
 of the women, perfectly d la Hollandaise. 
 
 The trade of Teignmouth consists chiefly in the 
 export of pipe and potters' clay dug in the vicinity, 
 and conveyed to Liverpool in vessels from 80 to SCK) 
 tons burthen. 
 
 Some of these vessels freight home with coals, 
 while others take salt, and proceed to Newfoundland ; 
 L3
 
 114 TOPOGRAPHICAL DESCRIPTION OF 
 
 from thence with fish to the markets of Spain, Portugal, 
 and tlie Mediterranean. The Newfoundland trade is 
 carried on with great spirit at tlii^ pUice. Nothing 
 has tended more to improve the healthiness of this 
 spot, than the canal cut by the late James Temple, 
 Esq. which has drained the marshes, and prevented 
 the poisonous miasmata from coming down the river 
 in the shape of fogs. In fact, agues were so common 
 before at King's Teignton, tliat tlie inhabitants were 
 scarcely ever free from their attacks. 
 
 In>the lodging-houses here the lodgers are expected 
 to find themselves bed and table-linen. The range of 
 houses distinguished by the names of Spring- gardens, 
 Courtenay-rovv, Wellington-row, the Strand, Rcgent's- 
 place, and Holland's-row, are considered the most 
 desirable situations, from their vicinity to the prome- 
 nade, bathing-place, public library rooms, theatre, and 
 Wellington's Waterloo boarding-house. The popula- 
 tion of East and West Teignmouth at present consists 
 of about 4000 persons: fish may be had here in the 
 highest perfection every day. It has been said of 
 Devon, that in this county the " polished gentleman" 
 more frequently occurs than any where else through- 
 out the island. 
 
 The Den, or fashionable promenade, connnences 
 from Mr. Cove's beautiful cottage at the extremity of 
 East Teignmouth to the ship-yards, and terminates 
 vvest, extending nearly a mile. It runs parallel with 
 the beach to the point opposite Shaldon, where it 
 forms a curve; and seats here enable the pedestrian to 
 await the arrival of the passac^e-boat close to the cot- 
 tage ornee of Mr. Kendal, which commands a full 
 view of the estuary of the Teign. Looking up the 
 river on either side, richly cultivated grounds present 
 themselves, adorned with beautiful villas, amongst 
 winch stands Teignmouth-house, the residence of 
 
 l^ctTi'"^^"^' ^"'^ ^^^^^''^ '^'^^ the pleasant hamlet 
 ot bhaldon. Keturnmg by the rooms, and continuing 
 on from the east end of the Den, we have a view of 
 IherehdenceofDr.Tayleur; and passing the marine
 
 DEVONSHIHE. 115 
 
 cottage of Captain Wight, a path leads into the Daw- 
 lish roat!, and about half a mile further on is the 
 hamlet of Ilolcombe. In fine, the walks and ride^ in 
 the more immediate vicinity of Teignmouth are de- 
 lightfully pleasant: but the smooth yet firm sands, 
 close to the water's ed^e, are peculiarly adapted to 
 invalids, atid for the enjoyment of the sea-air in its 
 utmost purity. Here no boats are iiauled up, no 
 fishermene nets spread, nur any obstructions to nnlk- 
 in^ or riding on this beach, as hordes witli pillions may 
 be procured for ladies, &c. 
 
 The trade of Teiijnmouth consists of some commer- 
 cial intercourse with Newfoundland, the exportation 
 t)f clay, and the importation of coal, carried on chiefly 
 in craft built at the place, where there are conve- 
 niences for launchin;; vessels of 100 tons. 
 
 Lord ClitTord, by his deputy, holds a court-baron, 
 or conrt-leet, for West Teignmouth once every year; 
 at which court a jury is regularly nominated, two con- 
 stables deputed and sworn, and a portreeve chosen, 
 who is invested with considerable authority. 
 
 Thf great tithes, and the tithes of fish, in Teii;n- 
 mouth, belong to the De.in and Chapter of Exeter. The 
 greatest part of the tow n is freehold, and lias been con- 
 sidenibly improved since it became a watering-place. 
 Teignmouth is a place of considerable antiquity, 
 and is remarkable for the landing of the Danes, m 
 970, in their first expedition against England. In the 
 reign of Queen Anne, a great part of the town was 
 burnt by the French : the inhabitants, however, by 
 means of a brief, were soon after enabled to rebuild 
 one of the streets, which they called French-street, in 
 memory of the calamity. 
 
 The company who visit Teignmouth as a watering- 
 place, principally resort to East Teignmouth, where 
 the theatre and public rooms are situated. The for- 
 mer was built upon a piece of ground given by Lord 
 Couitenay, and opened for the first time in 180'2. 
 Here are two inns, the Globe and the Hotel; from
 
 116 TOPOGRAPHICAL DESCRIPTION Ol 
 
 the former, a coacfi sets out and returns the same day 
 thrice a week for Exeter. 
 
 Tliere formerly was a market lield on J he Sunday at 
 West Teignraouth, but discontinued in the reign of 
 Henrv HI. by order of the slieriff. It has ever since 
 been held on the Saturday. Salmon, salmon peal, sea 
 trout, whiting, mackerel, and many other kinds offish, 
 are taken in great plenty here. 
 
 The number of houses in East and ^^'est Tcign- 
 mouth are 749, and the inhabitants 3980. 
 
 One mile and a half to the west of Teignmouth is 
 Bishop's Teignton, a small parish, remarkable for 
 the many roads that intersect it, extending, upon a 
 moderate computation, between 40 and 50 miles, 
 though the circumference of the parish is not more 
 than 12 miles. The church is an ancient structure, 
 apparently of Saxon architecture. 
 
 About two miles south-west from Bishop's Teign- 
 ton, is the small village of King's Teignton. 
 
 Shaldon, a small village opposite Teignmouth, 
 across the Teign, nearly under the promontory, called 
 the Ness, has lately become much frequented in the 
 summer by families visiting the watering-places on 
 this coast. It has a chapel, erected nearly 150 years 
 ago by the Carews of liaccombe, most beautifully 
 situated a little above the Teign, about three quarters 
 of a mile from the hamlet, at the end of a walk 
 through a grove of trees. This agreeable place is the 
 property of Lord Clifford. 
 
 The road from Exeter to Honiton passes through a 
 most beautiful country, full of wood, and abounding 
 in gentlemen's seats and picturesque cottages. 
 
 Four miles from Exeter is Clj/st-housc, which, pre- 
 vious to the dissolution of monasteries, was a palace 
 belonging to the bishops of Exeter. It is a large and 
 venerable building, commanding extensive views of 
 the country. About one mile and a half out of the 
 high road, is Faringdon-house, the seat of J. B.Chol- 
 wich, Esq.
 
 DEVOXSHir.E. 117 
 
 At the ilibt'Auce of about eleven miles from Exeter, 
 ftood Kitcot-Ziousc, burnt down several years since. 
 It had been the seat of Sir John Kcnnaway, liarl. 
 
 Iittween the high road and Ottery St. I\Iary, which 
 lies about a mile and a half to the left, is Cadhani, 
 an ancient seat, formerly the property of a family ot 
 that name. 
 
 Ottcp.y St. Maiiy derives its name from its situa- 
 tion near the river Otter, and its patron saint. The 
 church is very large, and of sinjiular construction. On 
 each bide there is a square tower opening into the 
 body of t!ic church, and forming two transepts, as in 
 Exeter Cathedral. The towers have pinnacles and 
 oj)en battlements, and that on the north a sm;dl spire. 
 1 here is a richly ornamented cliapel t«l the north- 
 west corner, built liy liishop Grandison : the roof is 
 Covered with fan-shaped tracery. A monument to 
 the men)ury of the wife of Gideon Sherman, Esq. 
 was, among several others, deslroyeil by the negli- 
 gence so apparent in this church. There arc (393 
 houses in this town, and 352'2 inhabitants, whose 
 chief employnient is the manufacture of coarse woollen 
 cloth. The celebrated Sir Walter Ualeigh inhabited 
 a mansion in this town, the remains of which are still 
 to be seen in Mill-street. The parish of Ottery 
 St. Mary is an hundred of itself. 
 
 i'urstiing our journey, ot the distance of sixteen 
 miles from Exeter, we arrive at IIo.\n(»N, as before 
 observed, a town situated in a delightful vale, upon a 
 rising ground, on the south side of the river Otter, 
 151 miles from London. This is an nncient place, 
 belonging, belore the Conquest, to Drogo, a Saxon, 
 and then gi\en by William to his half-brother, the 
 Earl of iNIortaigne. In the reign of Henry the First, 
 the manor was granted to Richard de Rivers, from 
 whom it descended to the Courtenays, Earls of 
 Devon, and is now the property of James Tow.i- 
 shend, Esq. 
 
 '1 he market is mi Saturday, and has been held 
 ever since the reign of King John, who appointed
 
 118 TOPOOKAPHICAL DE^CK^PTiO:\ Ol 
 
 this day instead of Sunday, on whicij it was anciently 
 kept. 
 
 It is said the first manufoctory for making serges 
 in Devonshire, was established in Iloniton; but at 
 present the principal manufacture of the town is lace ; 
 very large quantities of which arc disposed of in the 
 metropolis, from one shilling a yard to five guineas 
 and upwards. ' 
 
 The municipal government of the town is vested in 
 a portreeve and bailiff, who are chosen annually at 
 the court of the lord of the manor. 
 
 The list of burgesses for this town begins in the 
 28th of Edward I., and is continued but once more in 
 the reign of Edward III.; there are no more returns 
 until 16th Charles I.; from this time the representa- 
 tion has been uninterrupted. The right of election is 
 in the burgage-holders, paying scot and lot only, to 
 the number of about 350. 
 
 Continuing our journey, at the distance of nine 
 miles from Honiton, we arrive at the town of Ax- 
 MiNSTEH, which derives its name partly from its situa- 
 tion upon a river called the Axe, and from a minster 
 said to have been erected by King Athelstan, for 
 seven priests, to pray for the souls of seven earls slain 
 in his army, when he defeated the Danes in a bloody 
 battle fought near this place. Axminster is at pre- 
 sent a large irregularly built town, 146 miles from 
 London, containing 2742 inhabitants, the lower classes 
 being principally employed in the carpet and glove ma- 
 nufactories : — the former of these was established here 
 in 1755; it has since been carried on to a very con- 
 siderable extent, and is at present in a very flourish- 
 ing state. The mode of weaving is very different from 
 that practised at other manufactories: the carpets are 
 woven in one entire piece, several hands being em- 
 ployed in conjunction at the same loom, working the 
 patterns with needles. The looms are of considerable 
 dimensions, and the most beautiful Turkey and Per- 
 sian carpets are imitated with gr«it success. 
 
 The churcli is large, and is said bv Leland to have
 
 DLVON.^lHlli:. 110 
 
 Keeti •* lainosc hy the sepullurts ol many noble 
 Danes slain in Kin;^ .HtheUtane's lime, at a battle 
 on Branesd(n%ne Tinrby, and by the sepultures like- 
 wise (jf sum Saxon lortls slain in the same tield." 
 
 Axminster stands upon the very borders of the 
 county, which the Axe crosses a little higher, and 
 then runs, in a crooked line, quite through tlie county 
 to the Severn Sea on its northern side. 
 
 'I'hrce miles south-west tVotn Axminster, raid two 
 fumi Colyton, is Musbun/, a small retired villaiie, dis- 
 tinguished as the birth-place of Churchill, the tlunous 
 Duke ot iM;\rlborongh. 
 
 Journey/rum Uurtlaud Foiiit tu Barnstaple. 
 
 Hautland Point, called by Ptolomy, llcrcult's' 
 i*iomontory, and in Camden's time, Herly Pointy 
 runs considerably into the sea, and I'orms the north- 
 west corner of the county. Upon this cape is situated 
 the small market-town ofllARTLAND, wliich gives its 
 name to the hundred. We have already mentioned 
 that the country in this ncighbourhuud is particularly 
 bli-ak and dreary. 
 
 1 he market is on Saturday, and is much frequt ntcd 
 by the h^hermen of Barnstaple, Bideford, and other 
 adjacent towns on the coast, w ho come in their boats. 
 The church is a large and handsome building, about 
 a mile from the town, near the sea, and is to be seen 
 at a considerable distance. The population of this 
 parish, according to the return made under the late 
 act, appears to amount to 1968 inhabitants, who are 
 chieriy employed in agriculture. 
 
 Ilartland-abbey, the seat of Mrs. Orchard, stands 
 in a narrow vale, whose sloping sides are richly 
 mantled with hanging woods; it is of modern erec- 
 tion, but occupies the site and includes the cloisters 
 belonging to the ancient monastic building, which 
 being quite perfect, are introduced as tlie basement 
 story of the eastern and western fronts of the house. 
 
 Ilartland-abbey ife supposed to have been founded 
 by Githoy wife of Earl Godwin, in honour of St. Nee-
 
 120 TOPOGRAPHICAL DESCRIPTIOX OF 
 
 tan, through whose merits she believed her iiiisband 
 had escaped shipwreck in a dangerous tempest. Of 
 the original building, the cloisters alone ren)aiii, and 
 these form a part of the mansion erected by the pre- 
 sent proprietor. 
 
 About four miles from Hartland, on the left of 
 our road, is Clovelly-court, a handsome building, 
 erected on the site of the former mansion, which was 
 burnt down. The views from hence are extensive, 
 and the grounds are in a state of great improvement. 
 
 The little village ofCLovELLY is, perhaps, the most 
 romantic situation upon the whole of this coast. It 
 is built upon the steep side of the rocks immediately 
 adjoining the sea, so that the street is actually a re- 
 gular flight of steps. 
 
 Clovelly was formerly a celebrated place for tiie 
 herring-fishery ; but of late years this has decreased 
 considerably, and at present there are comparatively 
 but (ew caught. The manor anciently belonged to 
 the Giflfords; but became in the time of Richard II. 
 the property of Sir John Gary, Knight, by whose 
 family the harbour and pier was made. 
 
 A road has been cut froui the village towards the 
 high road to Bideford, passing Glovelly Dikes, the 
 remains of an ancient entrenchment of unknown 
 origin. 
 
 Mr. Lysons remarks, that " The scenery of the 
 romantic village of Glovelly, Sir J. Hamlyn Williams's 
 park, and the new drive from the Bideford road, 
 called the Hoby, may be ranked among the most 
 singularly beautiful in the county." "The village 
 of Milton," he adds, " in the parish of Buckland 
 Monachorum, should not be omitted, which being 
 situated in a deep and narrow ravine, is singularly pic- 
 turesque, and has much attracted the notice of 
 artists." 
 
 About four leagues north-west of Glovelly, in the 
 Severn Sea, is Lukdy Island, containing about 2000 
 acres, surrounded by high and almost inaccessible 
 rocks : the only safe lunding-place is on the east side.
 
 DEVONSHIRE. 121 
 
 There arc not more than 400 acre? in cultivation ; 
 the residue being rabbit-warren, and pasture for cat- 
 tle and sheep. 
 
 The island was the projjerly of Sir John Borlasc 
 Warren; then of Mr. Cleveland, who sold it to 
 Government. There were lately seven houses, but 
 not all inhabited, anrl the rent of the whole estate 
 lias not been estimatefl hii;hcr than lol. j;cr annum. 
 
 The ruins of Morisco's-castle and St. Anne's ( l.a- 
 JK'I, are the chit fiinticjuities worthy of notice. The 
 castle wiis formerly stron;;ly fortified, and in the 
 reign of ' " " 
 the King. 
 
 Pursuing o\ir journey at the disUmce of fourteen 
 miles from Harthmd, wc arrive at Bideford, an- 
 ciently Rcnlnn-hj/'tfit-ForJy i'roiu whence the | re- 
 sent nanie. It js a small sea-p(jrt town, situated on 
 the Torridge, tdjout two mik> from Dainstaple l>ay. 
 The greatest part of the town is on the western bide 
 of the river, a small ]iart on the east side: between 
 both there is a communication, by means of a Ijridgo 
 of twL'uiy-four arches, built bv voluntary subscrip- 
 tions raised in Devonshire anil Cornwall, anil since 
 supported by the proceeds of lands vested by the 
 Court of Chancery in trustees, who are the principal 
 iidiabitants of the place. 
 
 Neither the age of the church, or the name of its 
 tutelar saint, are exactly known, though it is sup- 
 posed to have been built about the same time 
 with the bridge, in the fourteenth century. The 
 original form of the former edifice was tliat of a proper 
 cross; but repeated alterations and additions since 
 the Reformation have considerably changed its 
 figure. A plain square tower rises to the lieight ot 
 about 70 feet at its west end, containing six bells, 
 which being so near the river, have a very harmonious 
 sound. '1 iic treble has for its motto," Peace and 
 good neighbourhood ;" and the tenor, 
 
 " I to the church the living call. 
 And to the grave I sQmraon all."
 
 122 lOPOGRAPHlCAL DESClllPllON OF 
 
 The church has two aisles and three galleries, with 
 two additional v\ ings ; there is also what is peculiar 
 to churches in Devonshire and Cornwalij viz. a north 
 aisle, appropriated to the purpose of a chapel or chan- 
 try; but which at the Reformation was divided into 
 pews, generally for the family of the lord of the 
 manor, or for the benefit of the minister. Since the 
 year 178r>, when the church received an additional 
 wing, it has been large enough to accommodate 2000 
 persons. 
 
 The tower of Bideford-church, like many others in 
 Devonshire, is a mark for vessels, especially those 
 bound over the bar. 
 
 Among other improvements which have taken 
 place, the erection of a new vestry-room has been 
 mentioned as one of the best. The original vestry 
 was the record-room of the town ; upon its site five 
 new seats or pews have been erected, and the new 
 vestry-room was built upon a spot of ground taken 
 out of a convenient part of the church-yard. On 
 some of the walls and pew-doors of this church there 
 are armorial bearings ; many of these are quartered 
 with other coats, but the greatest number have the 
 Granville arms alone. The only monument which 
 that family have in this church, is on the south side 
 of the chancel, near the altar. It is a freestone table, 
 upon which lies extended the statue of man in 
 armour, with a dog, not as customary at the feet, 
 but by his side. 
 
 There are but few sepulchral monuments here 
 worthy of notice, excepting that in commemoration of 
 John Strange, Esq., who died in 1646. This was 
 placed so high after the alterations of 1785, that its 
 mscription is indiscernible below. A little to the 
 left of its former site, upon a small black marble 
 tablet, is inscribed : 
 
 Neare the foot of this piller doth lye 
 
 A mother deare, and her foure children bye. 
 
 In the church-yard there is but one grave-stone
 
 DF.VO.\>H f n F. 123 
 
 comineinorative ulany rciir.iikaltle person or ciicinn- 
 sfance, viz. 
 
 In intniory of Henry, John, and Cliristophei 
 Ravening, ot" tliis townc, Surgione, 1(316. 
 To nhoni God lends 
 Fair \vint;cs to flty, 
 (^ur trust needs then in God must he. 
 Our ai;e was young, our age but tender. 
 We were three Ravens 
 That here l^e under. 
 Exctt Morhis Dei. 
 Note George Forgitt, 1616, 
 In the disease died here. 
 
 It is remarkable, that not one of those persons is 
 entered in the parisli register of burials for tliat year; 
 it is therefore pr(;baljle, that many others were omit- 
 ted in the same manner : of course, the real number 
 that died of tlie plague, was much greater than the 
 registered account. 
 
 There was formerly appended to tlie ciiurch of 
 Bideford, what was called the C/iurch-liouse, standing 
 within the boundaries of the church-yard walls. In 
 many places these church-Iumses were called, and 
 still retain the name of bcad-housei ; and no doubt 
 they were erected for tlie benefit of poor religious 
 persons, who were to lead a devout life, to attend re- 
 gularly the service of the cliurch, particularly that of 
 the chantry, and to offer up frequent prayers for the 
 souls of the founders. These were called Beadsmen. 
 
 Mr. Watkins, author of An Essay towards a His- 
 tory of Bideford, observes, that " At the Reforma- 
 tion, these pious edifices, not being considered in the 
 number of religious houses, generally speaking, were 
 either appropriated to the service of the ministers of 
 their respective parishes, or retained as alms-houses. 
 
 The house in question was used ix<i an alms-house, 
 and continued so till a very few years before 1792, when 
 the lord of the manor (by what right was not gene- 
 rally understood) caused the principal materials to be 
 M 2
 
 124 TOPOGRAPHICAL DESCRIPTION OF 
 
 removed for the repair of a mill belonging to liim, and 
 then leased out the premises to a house-carpenter. 
 Mr. Watkins adds, " How the parish suffered this 
 house to be taken away in this manner, without any 
 inquiry, I cannot account for; but I am in hopes 
 that an inquiry will even yet be instituted." 
 
 It further appears, that the parish of Bideford was 
 freed from several ecclesiastical exactions; for in- 
 stance, tithing apples and pears had been paid by 
 the conscience, or as they thought good, and not 
 otherwise. For beans and peas eaten green, no 
 tithing was paid ; and the borough of Bideford, upon 
 the death of any of the inhabitants, never paid any 
 mortuaries or bequests to the pastor of the parish. 
 
 By the charity of numbers of pious and well-dis- 
 posed people, it seems the poor of Bideford had been 
 well provided for in the various bequests made from 
 time to time, some of them /or ever. But to use the 
 words of the faithful historian before quoted, " the 
 eternity of this donation, like many others, has long 
 since ceased," notwithstanding the executors and 
 overseers were " prayed in God's name, as they would 
 answer it at the general judgment, not to neglect the 
 performance of their duty." Of two other charities 
 Mr. Watkins observes, " It is much to be lamented, 
 and raises an honest indignation in the philanthropic 
 mind, to consider that both these pious and useful 
 and pious donations have long since been totally 
 lost." Ex uno disce omnes. 
 
 Bideford has an ancient free grammar-school, a 
 free-school, Sunday-schools, &c. A bank was open- 
 ed here in November 1791. 
 
 The principal government is vested, by charter 
 granted in 1610, in a mayor, seven aldermen, a re- 
 corder, and two burgessesl The mayor and recorder 
 for the time being, and one of the aldermen, chosen 
 by the rest of the corporation, are justices of the 
 peace within the borough. 
 
 At present the coast'^lng trade, and tJie import and 
 export of coals and limestone, with someship-building.
 
 DEVONSJIIRE. 12a 
 
 constitute the chief husine&.s of the place. There are 
 indeed j^reat quantities of earthen-\\are manufactured 
 here, uhicli is sent, both by sea and land, to all parts 
 of the kingdom. Amon^ the exports must also be 
 mentioned oak-bark, of which great quantities are 
 annually sent to Ireland and Scotland. 
 
 The njarket, \vhich is held on Tuesday, is well 
 supplied with corn and all sorts of provisions, at very 
 moderate prices. 
 
 With respect to local advantages, few towns in 
 England, and not one in the north of Devon, can 
 challenge a superiority over this. Nothing, perhaps, 
 can be more picturesque than the view above the bridge. 
 Near the fording-placc, a lar^ie wood rises from the 
 side of the river to the sunnnit of a high hill of a 
 square pyramidal form ; and at the bottom of that side 
 fronting the town, is a beautiful small meadow, which 
 is a perfectly natural amphitheatre, and verdant all 
 the year round. This, with a large ancient house 
 close by, gardens and fields in a high state of cultiva- 
 tion, forms a landscape worthy the attention of the 
 eye of taste. 
 
 About half a mile north of Bidefoid is Port-hill, 
 the seat of the late Mr. Willct, commanding beautiful 
 prospects of the surrounding country. 
 
 The small sea-port town of Apri.r.DorwE is situated 
 on the side of a hill, about three miles below Bideford, 
 in Barnstaple Bay. Hero liubba, the Dane, landed 
 in the reign of Alfred, by whom he was discomfited 
 and slain, with 1200 men, before Kinvith, or Renny- 
 castle. 
 
 Appledore, on the south coast of the Bristol Chan- 
 nel , from its pleasant scenery, its walks, and its 
 beautiful sands, has become a very pretty watering- 
 place. It is situated on the Taw and the Torridge, 
 two of the finest rivers in Devonshire, both of 
 which are much frequented in summer by pleasure- 
 boats, ike. 
 
 To the accommodation of lodging-houses at Apple- 
 dore, a good inn has been added, and it is supplied 
 M3
 
 126 TOPOGRAPHICAL DESCIIIPTION OF 
 
 with fish and all other articles, tiiree times a week, 
 by its own market, and those of Barnstaple and Bide- 
 ford. Vessels sail almost every day either to Swan- 
 sea or Tenby, in Wales, and also to Bristol, Ireland, 
 and Scotland. 
 
 The Burrous, or the sand-beach here, being three 
 miles in length, afford an excellent ride. The views 
 from hence are the promontory of Hercules, called 
 Hartland Point, Lundy island and Ilfracomb on the 
 north and north-west, and Barnstaple and Bideford 
 on the east and south-west. Any of these places 
 may be reached in about an hour, either by land or 
 water. 
 
 About four miles south of Bideford is Torrington, 
 or Great Torrington, to distinuuish it from a small 
 village of the same name. This is a very ancient 
 place, and is finely situated, partly on the summit 
 and partly on the declivity of a iioble eminence, which 
 forms the eastern bank of the river Torridge. On 
 the' south side are some slight vestiges of an ancient 
 castle, the origin of which is unknown; its site has 
 lately been used as a bowling-green, and commands 
 a fine prospect. The river is here seen to flow in a 
 graceful current along a narrow valley, enclosed by 
 grand sloping ridges, and having a beautifully wooded 
 back ground. Torrington was formerly invested with 
 the privilege of having representatives in Parliament, 
 but no return has been made since the reign of 
 Henry VI. Its government is vested in a mayor, 
 eight aldermen, and sixteen burgesses, who act 
 under a charter granted by Queen Mary. Torring- 
 ton consists principally of one long street, and has 
 been very populous and flourishing ; the chief employ- 
 ment of the inhabitants arising from the woollen 
 manufacture. Here are two churches, the most 
 ancient of which is furnished with a library. Some 
 ancient alms-houses in the town possess the right of 
 commonage on an extensive piece of ground, given 
 by William Fitzrobert, Baron of Torrington, in the 
 reigu of Richard I. Here is a free-school for thirty
 
 DKVONSHIRE. l'J7 
 
 boys. Margaret, Countess of Kitljnioiul, ami mo- 
 ther of Henry VII. resided some lime in this place, 
 and was a considerable benefactress. The views 
 from the two bridges in the vicinity of the town are 
 delightful. The market is on Saturday. 
 
 According; to the late returns, this parish contains 
 2538 inhabitants, who are chiefiy employed in the 
 woollen manufacture, and 433 houses. 
 
 Of the castle above-mentioned there are but small 
 remains, if any, now to be seen. 
 
 Taw stock-house, two miles from the new briiji^e, 
 on the road towards Barnj-taple, is the seat of Jiir 
 Bourchier Wrey, Bart. The principal part of this 
 mansion having been burnt in 1787, was afterwards 
 rebuilt by Sir B. Wrey, who greatly improveil the 
 grounds. This place is singularly situated on the river 
 Taw, lictwcen two verdant hills richly skirted with 
 forest trees, but with a bold descent towards the 
 river, which meanders dclighlfidly through the vale 
 at the distance of half a mile, the boundary hills 
 widening as they descend. The liuusc is approached 
 through extensive woods and park-grtjunds. The 
 church near it contains many handsome monuments 
 belonging to the family, and the place itself is said 
 to be remarkable for possessing the best manor, the 
 noblest mansion, most curious church, and the richest 
 rectory in the county. 
 
 \ BARNSTAPLE 
 
 Is situated on the east side of the river Taw, in a 
 broad and fertile vale. If is a very ancient ])lace, 
 constituted a borougli by King Athelstan, who built 
 a castle here, near the conlUience of the Nortli Sea 
 with the Taw, of which nothing remains, except a 
 liigh artificial mount; and at the time of the Conquest, 
 as appears from the Doomsday Survey, " there were 
 forty burgesses within the borough, and nine without." 
 There was, at the time of the dissolution of monas- 
 teries, a small j)riory here, the revenues of which 
 were valued at 1231. 6s. 7d. per annum.
 
 128 TOPOGRAPHICAL DESCRIPTION OP 
 
 Tlie corporation at present consists of a mayor, 
 two bailiflfs, two aidennen, twenty-two common- 
 council-raeu, and other officers. Barnstaple sends 
 two representatives to Parliament, elected by the 
 members of the corporation and the common bur» 
 gesses; the number of voters being about 260. 
 
 The privileges of the town were confirmed by a 
 charter granted by James I. 
 
 " The woollen trade, when formerly carried on here 
 with considerable spirit, threw a large sum of money 
 into the town, and enabled its inhabitants to beautify 
 it with many respectable houses. This trade has of 
 late failed ; but baize, silk stockings, and waistcoat 
 manufactories, still give life to the place." Besides 
 this source of wealth and population, the pleasing 
 character of the country around, and the comparative 
 cheapness of this part of England, have added to its 
 inhabitants, by inducing many independent families 
 to settle here entirely ; a circumstance that renders 
 Barnstaple by far the most genteel town in North 
 Devon ; it boasts indeed of some marks of a metro- 
 polis — balls every fortnight, and a regular theatre. 
 A noble quay stretches along the river-side to a great 
 length, terminated at one end by a handsome piazza; 
 over the centre of which stands the statue of Queen 
 Anne, with the following inscription : 
 
 ANNA 
 
 INTEMERAT^ FIDEI TESTIMONIVM ROBERTI ROLLE 
 
 DE STEVENSTONE, AGRO DEVONIENSI, ARMIG. 
 
 1708. 
 
 The river Taw is of considerable breadth here, but 
 very shallow, owing to the great and continual in- 
 crease of sand, which, it is greatly to be feared, will 
 in time entirely choak the port. Over the river is a 
 handsome stone bridge of sixteen arches, very similar 
 to that at Bideford, and probably built about the 
 same time. 
 
 The grammar-school at Barnstaple has acquired
 
 DEvox>Kir.E. rjo 
 
 much Celt'brit)', for haviut^ Lt-tn il»e plact- (»f thi' 
 ^rulicr iducatiiiii ofst'\tral (iblinguished charnctirs . 
 it liui bftii i'Stalj)isli(.-<l upw;irdb of ihrec ccnlurits. 
 
 Ovtr tliu iiorlli gale tlicre is a clKirity-scliool, tor 
 tne I'cfucation of llic iiitaiit poor jiirls mid bovs. 
 
 'I'liere is n plcasiuit walk, on this >ide of llic town 
 next tfio river, called tin- XortlKTiJ-lIay, l-ctwct-n ft 
 jIuuIjIc row oftrcis. 'I'iie pouulaiioii of narnst:iple, 
 arcordiijc; to the Mluni under tiic late act, appears to 
 ainoinit to 5079 inhabitants. 
 
 From Uanistaple it is well worth the trnveller's 
 pains to make an excursion to the forest of Extnoor; 
 as it has been observed, the red deer, which probably 
 were formerly dispersed over the whole island, have 
 for many years past been confined to the north of 
 Devon, and that part of Somersetshire that joins ir, 
 nnd are at present, with the exception of some strag- 
 jzlers, to be found only in the vicinity of Exmoor. 
 
 The for( St of Exmoor, and the commons annexed 
 to it, contain about C0,000 acres of wild upland pas- 
 ture, intersected by a few ravines and some bot^i;y 
 ground. Surroundinij this tract lie the beautiful and 
 • xtensive woods of Bad};ery, Culbourne, Horner, 
 ^)ulverton, llawkridge, North INIolton, Uray, and 
 Hrotton, which are the resort of the deer. It is 
 about sixty years ai;o since the first staL^-hounds were 
 kept in this county by Sir Thomas Ackland, grand- 
 father of the present baronet : they were surrendered 
 to him by the late Colonel Rissett, who kept them 
 till the death of their former proprietor, wiien he 
 gave them np to his son, who succeded to liis title 
 and estates. The late Sir Thomas Ackland dyinn 
 in the life-time of Colonel Babseit, he aiiain resumed 
 them, and kept them till his death, which happened 
 in 1802; they were then kept a few years by John 
 Worth, Esq. by subscription, who gave them up to 
 the present Earl Eortescue, by whom they were de- 
 livered over, about three years ai;o, to Stucley Lucas, 
 Esq. and they are again a subscription pack. These 
 hounds stand about twcntv-seven inches liitih, are
 
 130 TOPOGRAPHICAL DESCRIPTION 01 
 
 fuller of bone and rather heavier th;in tlie generality o( 
 fox-hounds, and have much deeper tongues. They 
 have been, however, occasionally crossed with fox- 
 hounds, particularly with those of Earl Fitzwilliam, 
 when it was thought they were becoming slow and 
 slack ; and again with his late Majesty's hounds, 
 when, from the cross with the fox-hounds, they ap- 
 peared to have too much dash; fur it is essential 
 to the stag-hounds that they should not carry a 
 head in cover, lest they disturb fresl) deer, and that 
 when they come to water, they should not daslj 
 across the river for the scent on the other side, as 
 fox-hounds do ; but that they should try up and down 
 the stream, which is the usual beat of a hunted deer. 
 Stag-hunting in this quarter commences about the 
 20th of August, and continues till the 20th of Sep- 
 tember, when the necks of the stags beginning to 
 swell, the hounds are suffered to run hinds only, till 
 the middle of the month of November, when the 
 rivers being out and the water cold, they would be 
 liable to be chilled, and are, therefore, theft laid up 
 till the middle of April, when hinds are again run for 
 a month, and again about the 10th of August, to give 
 the pack blood and wind, preparatory to stag-hunting.. 
 If the chase of the stag is not so exhilirating as that of 
 the fox, nothing can be imagined more grand and 
 noble. The hounds, considering the remote part of 
 England in which they hunt, are tolerably well at- 
 tended ; they arrive at the cover-side usually about 
 nine; intelligence having been obtained of a warrant- 
 able deer, that is of a deer of a proper age, to be 
 killed, a couple or two of old hounds, according to 
 the size of the cover, called tufters, are laid upon his 
 slot, the pack being herled up, that is in couples, 
 with a rope running through the ring of each pair, 
 and tied by this to a gate, or put into some neigh- 
 bouring barn or stable, till the deer is found; they 
 are then uncoupled, led by the huntsman to the scent, 
 and then laid on. If the deer is a light or a bold 
 one, he frequently faces the moor, and crosses it to
 
 DtVO.N-UiI.E. l.;i 
 
 some oi the cover* on tlit- other ;side, alVortling a 
 gnllop of from twelve to twenty iiiiles, wiilunit a 
 smgie obbUcle to the pack. In thi> cMcDticd clwsc 
 utter !>o lar^e an animal, anil over so tine a !»centm|; 
 country, wliere no hounii requires the assistant e ot 
 another to enable him to carry scent, it must neces- 
 sarily happen, as it is almost nnpoj-sibie that any two 
 hounds stiould be so exactly mi;tched in speed and 
 bottom as to run together, that they should string and 
 rurj inutf . 1 he ordmary nile ot" a stac-lujund over 
 this llat and open country beiiit: a nulc in three 
 minutes, no horses can keep pace with them, particu- 
 larly when It is considered that they are frequently 
 impeded by such nuincs and deep grounds as present 
 themselves upon K\m'>or. 'Ihe spjjrti-men then, 
 having kept the huunds in view a considerable time, 
 to ascertain the point to which the deer is inakin;:, 
 and belli;; guided by slow and cast-hounds, arrive at 
 the water shortly alter the pack, (to which the ilecr 
 usually makes): he is generally killed there, after 
 beatin;; up and down tre<jueiuly tor an hour. It 
 happens, however, that when an old or cowardly 
 deer IS tound, instead of lacing tl»e moor, he ot'teii 
 strings the hjiig range of woods in its vicinity, where 
 the stag-hounds, not being so capable of climbing 
 lulls and breaking thick fences as the fox-hounds, 
 carry a-head like a pack of harriers, and are equally 
 free of their tine, deep, mellow tongues. 
 
 This unique and princely diversion, however, is 
 now on the wane. Exmoor has lately been disat- 
 forested by Act of Parliament. Ten thousand acres 
 in the centre of this tract of land are enclosed by a 
 high wall, which, although it is topped by the deer 
 and hounds, presents an insurmountable barrier to 
 the horsemen, who are i^ften obliged to ride two or 
 three miles to a gate, while the chase perhaps leads 
 to a contrary direction ; and what is still worse, as the 
 country is better cultivated, the farmers arc more 
 sensible of the damage done by the deer, and kill them
 
 132 TOrOGRAPHlCAL DESCRIPTIOIs Of 
 
 without mercy, so that in a very few years the race 
 of tliese red deer will probably be extinct. 
 
 The men of the moors in Devonshire, and the ad- 
 jacent county, being famous for wrestling, we may 
 add to what has been said upon the subject, from the 
 observations of old Carew, who in his quaint style 
 remarked, " You shall hardly find an assembly of 
 boys in Devon and Cornwall, where the most un- 
 t(nvardly among them will not as readily give you 
 a specimen of this exercise as you are to require it." 
 Still, from the following description given by this old 
 writer, it will appear that some change has taken 
 place in the science itself in ihe present age; but the 
 practice has not declined. '* The two champions/' 
 says he, " step forth stripped, in their doublet and 
 hosen, and untrussed, so that they may the better 
 command the use of their limbs, and first shaking 
 hands, in token of friendship, they fall presently to 
 the effect of anger ; each shewing how to take hold 
 of the other to the best advantage, and to bear 
 down the adverse party ; whereon whosoever over- 
 throweth his mate, in sucii sort that either his back, 
 or the one shoulder and contrary heel doth touch the 
 ground, is accounted to give the fall. If he be only 
 endangered, and make a narrow escape, it is called 
 a foyle. This pastime also hath its laws; for in- 
 stance, of taking hold above the girdle ; wearing a 
 girdle to take hold by ; playing three pulls for trial 
 of the mastery ; the fall-giver to be exempted from 
 playing again with the taker, but bound to answer 
 his successor. Silver prizes for this and other feats 
 of activity used to be carried about the country, and 
 set up at bride-ales ; but lime, or their abuse, hath 
 worn them out of practice," 
 
 In the description of some late matches, it is ob- 
 served, "the ring was formed in a field called the 
 Marshesy to which kind of soil the showers that had 
 previously fallen lent rather a cruel aid." When the 
 narrator approached the ring, though the rain de-
 
 r)EVl»N<lIIKE. Wo 
 
 scciided rapidly, the people stood round iiiunoved. 
 There was a large circle of wooden railiiiii erected, 
 tonniiig the back to a single bench, and within this ring 
 IK-ople were admitted, on pnying threepence. The 
 crowd bting constrained to stand as near the mils as 
 possible, an open space was thus kept for the com- 
 petitors. After the rules had been read, a hat was 
 liurled into the air, and immediately followed by 
 another from the acceptor of the challenge: the wrest- 
 lers bcgrm immediateiy to prepare for the strucglc. 
 The first that stood in the midst of the ring, having 
 stripped to the shirr, then put on a linen jacket, with 
 a green cock worked on the back, which, it appears, 
 was the customary garment ; he was a young man of 
 an appearance extremely prepossessing, his limbs 
 being well grown and strongly set, yet rather slight ; 
 his body wa-j easy and slim, yet peculiarly expressive 
 of prowess. The fronts of his legs, from the knees to 
 the ancle, were armed with thick carpeting, to pre- 
 lect him from the kicks of his antagonist. " Ilci 
 
 aving, 
 says the relator, " turned to a countryman near me, 
 and inquired \\ho the youth was?" " Who is that?'* 
 saitl the countryman, \\iih a tone of surprise, accom- 
 panied by a look of profound pity — " why, one of the 
 Canns, to be sure." Young Cann stood awhile in a 
 calm and indilTerent attitude, whilst his opponent 
 ploughed his heavy way towards him. 
 
 This was a little bull-necked, thickset man, of pro- 
 digiously broad and weighty carriage, whose carpeted 
 linvbs resembled the bolsters of a sofa, and liis throat 
 was scarcely less inferior in size. Cann pledged him 
 in beer or cider, and then giving the mug to one of 
 tlie umjjires, he seized his opponent by the collar of 
 }iis jacket, and received in return the tiger clutch of 
 this formidable antagonist. Cann stood up nobly and 
 watchfully, met every movement with a harder gripe 
 of the jacket, receiving the kicks intended for him 
 with an indifference quite astonishing to all possessors 
 of knees and shin-bones. The short man stood low 
 and far from Caiin, sometimes leaning forward, as if 
 N
 
 13i TOPOOKAI'UICAL DZSCRIPTIOK OF 
 
 he were on all-fours, and slipped and sprawled about 
 like a cat in walnut-shells, and with the same extraor- 
 dinary pertinacity for keeping his feet. This ungainly 
 attitude was strongly contrasted by Cann's upright 
 muscular form towering above it, and following lion- 
 like the crouching and shifting manoeuvres of the crea- 
 ture opposed to him. This display of skill and strength 
 lasted live minutes; and such being the time limited 
 for the s'mgle play^ as it is termed, the parties were 
 instantly separated by the two umpires. When a 
 man has stood out t\^o men and thrown one, he is set 
 down as a double player, and is entitled to strive 
 among the select on tlic second day for the prizes. 
 Of course, all the Cann's, the best men from the moors, 
 and young Brockenden and Thorn from Dawlish, made 
 themselves double players. The second morning was 
 any thing but " rosy-fingered," and there was some 
 slow and tedious contests for double players till very 
 late in the afternoon, so that the grand contest did 
 not commence till the moon arose, when the first shout 
 from the master of the revels was, " The younger Cann, 
 and Widdicomb of the moors." This was received 
 with a low murmur and a deep interest, which almost 
 smothered sound. The younger Cann was the stoutest 
 of the brotherhood, finely formed and fair-haired. He 
 stripped and accoutred himself immediately, his two 
 brothers assisting in buckling his leg armour and 
 fastening his jacket. The Cann's were farmers, con- 
 sisting of five brothers, all excellent w restlers, though 
 only three of them were present on this occasion. 
 The popular feeling, it might be perceived, was pain- 
 fully on Cann's side. Widdicomb, the moor-man, was 
 soon prepared for the conflict; he was a giant in size, 
 and after the cup had been pledged, the opponents 
 seized each other with an iron grasp. Ca;;n stood 
 boldly but cautiously up, as conscious that he had 
 rnuch to do, and the moor-man opposed him resolutely. 
 The struggle was immediate, and Cann, with one 
 terrific wrench, threw his antagonist to the earth; but 
 he fell so doubtfully on his shoulder, that it seemed
 
 DEVONSUIUE. loii 
 
 nuceruiin wlictiier he would Itave failcu on liis back, 
 or recover liiinhclt' by rolling on his face, which by a 
 >u(iiieu wrench he eiVected. In consequence of the 
 sli|)[)ery ^tate oi' the ura^s, Cann now till upon his 
 kiiL-e-i, and the nioor-inan instantly hurled him on his 
 b.ick. All was uproar and confusion, but Cann was 
 declared to have received a fall ; though, as he did 
 not seem to be convinced of the justice of his judt^es, 
 It was with real pain of spirit that he pulled oil" his 
 jacket. Vouiit^ lirockenden followed next with another 
 man from the moors, and he received a doubtful fall, 
 which was much cavilled at ; but which the judges, 
 nevertheless, »;ave against him. It now grew late, and 
 the clouds thickening round, the wrestling could 
 scarcely be perceived : tlie relator left the spot, but 
 ho afterwards heard that the Cann's retrieved the 
 fume of the family. In the morning the awning ami 
 the scalloliiiug liad vanished ; the young ft- Hows had 
 separated, the Cairn's to their farms, and the others 
 to the moors. 
 
 On the left of the road from Barnstaple to Ilfra- 
 comb there are several villas, beautifully situated 
 upon the eastvrrn bank of the Taw, within one, two, 
 and three milci. of Harnstaple. The road then passes 
 over a very extensive common particularly bleak, and 
 unsheltered by any sort of tree or hedge, for the whole 
 distance to 
 
 ILFRACOMB, 
 
 Which is the mobt northerly town in Devonshire, 
 in the hundred of liraunion, deriving its chief conse- 
 ijuence from the peculiar situation and safety of its 
 harbour; which is perhaps more indebted to nature 
 than art for its particular aiivantages, the inner bason 
 being almost wholly formed by tiie rocks whicl) sur- 
 round and defend it. Upon one of these rocks next 
 the sea, rising nearly to a point, is erected a light- 
 house, which has very much the appearance of a 
 small church. " Along the side of the same rock, to 
 the opening of the harbour, runs an artificial pier 
 N 2
 
 136 TOPOGKAPIIICAL DESCltlPTION OF 
 
 judiciously cojistructed, to prevent the accumulation 
 of sand; so that, by the joint assistance of the natural 
 barrier and this piece of masonry, ships of 230 tons 
 burthen may ride completely land-locked, and of 
 course perfectly safe from all violence of weather. 
 Over the gate of the pier, a stone tablet, with the fol- 
 lowing inscription, informs us to whom the town is 
 indebted for this valuable additioD to it9 conveniences 
 and advantages : 
 
 '' This extensive Pier, built some years since by the 
 munificence of the Bouchiers, Barons Fitz-Warine, 
 Earls of Bath, and Vice-Admirals of the place, was, 
 in the year 1760, partly rebuilt, lengthened, and 
 enlarged, by Sir Bouchier Wray, Bart., the present 
 lord and inheritor of this pier and manor." 
 A number of good houses, chiefly for the accommo- 
 dation of strangers in the summer season, range along 
 the side of the harbour, and the remainder of the 
 town stretches for a mile in length to the westward of 
 it. A pebbly shore in the same direction, affords a 
 convenient walk for pedestrians. 
 
 Ilfracomb consists of one street, running from the 
 sea-side to the church. It is one mile in length, and 
 the houses are tolerably well built. 
 
 The church is a large edifice, and contains a hand- 
 some monument, erected at the national expence to 
 the memory of Captain Bowen, who was killed in the 
 attempt upon Teneriffe, under Lord Nelson. Ilfra- 
 comb is so conveniently situated, that vessels can run 
 in here when they cannot make Bideford or Barn- 
 staple; so that much of the port business is done iiere. 
 This is a very convenient place for sea-bathing; and 
 there are several coves and machines outside the pier 
 for that purpose. On a summit near the bay, is a 
 neat summer-house, from which there is a very beau- 
 tiful ])rospect. 
 
 Ilfracomb, as a watering-place, has risen to an un- 
 common degree of celebrity within a few years past;
 
 DLVONSniRE. 137 
 
 and as there are several ct^ntcel families in and about 
 tlie town, it is a fashional»le retreat during the suiu- 
 mer months. To a good market, good inns, and 
 convenient lodgings, may be added, a coach that 
 goes t\^o or three times a-week to Barrstaple : and, 
 besides the packets that go to Bristol, Swansea, and 
 IVJdlord, last sailing skills maybe hired, lor excursions 
 to sea, at a short notice. The cabin-passengers in the 
 packet Ciinn lifraconib to ^oulh Wales pay 10s. Od.; 
 the rest in proportion. The rides and walks about 
 Ilfracomb are extremely picturesque, especially the 
 \'alley of Stones. 
 
 Ilfracomb is noted for maintaining constant lights 
 for the direction of sailors. Packet-boats s;iil twice 
 a-wt'L'k, every Monday and Thursday, across the 
 Hristol Channel, from Ilfracomb to Swansea in Gla- 
 inorcanshire, and from Swansea to Ilfracomb every 
 \Vedncsday and Saturday. 
 
 The coast, which extends from Ilfracomb to Linton, 
 is peculiarly fatal to bhippinu. Such is the height and 
 the |)reci{iitous form of ihc rocks, that few escape with 
 life who have the misfortune to sulVer shipwreck on 
 them. 
 
 'Ihe Valley of Mort, or Morthal, five miles from 
 Ilfracomb, is beautifully romantic. It alTords a de- 
 lightful ride of nearly two miles over the level beach 
 of Wollacombc Sands, and presents an extensive view 
 of a highly-cultivated country. Tradition affirms, that 
 Sir William de Tracey, one of the murderers of 
 Thomas a Becket, resided at Mort several years prior 
 to his death. A large tomb in the church denotes 
 that his remains lie there, though time has rendered 
 the inscription illegible. This part of the coast of 
 Devonshire has been less frequented than any other, 
 and consequently has, till lately, been less known than 
 other parts of the sea-shore ; but it is not, on that 
 account, less interesting. It is supposed to have 
 derived its name from the French word Mort, or deathy 
 it having been too frequently fatal to mariners, and 
 N3
 
 138 TOFOGTvAPUICAL DESCHIPTION OF 
 
 probably particularly so to French predatory invaders 
 in former times. 
 
 Combe-Martin, a very small fishini!;-to\vij, is si- 
 tuated about three miles to the east of lifracomb, and 
 " dyriveth its name from the situation, being a lowe 
 and deep valley, surrounded with very hi^h hills 
 (towards the sea excepted), and the addition of Martin, 
 from Le Sieur Martin de Turon, a man of mucii worth, 
 and assistant to William Duke of Normandye, wiien 
 he conquered this land, of wliomhe had this, with 
 other great possessions, given him." The houses ex- 
 tend along the dale in an irregular manner for at least 
 a mile from the sea-shore. " The scenery of the 
 latter," says Dr. Maton, " is really magnificent; its 
 moi-o prominent parts are singularly striking, and have 
 the happiest accompaniments imaginable. A well 
 broken lofty pile of rocks rises on one side of a little 
 creek, and constitutes the termination of a ridge, de- 
 liciously wooded towards the village, and answered by 
 hills of equal boldness opposite. From the brows of 
 the rock hang a tuft of foliage, spared by the rude 
 blasts of the main ; the waves bufTet the partial verdure 
 at the base. The road winds down by two or three 
 tempest-torn cottages, which a painter would consider 
 inestimable, as they are exactly on that part of the 
 precipice where he himself would have placed them 
 for the advantage of his picture." 
 
 There were formerly silver mines at Combe-Martin, 
 of " the first fynding and working of which, ther are no 
 certain records remayninge. In the tyme of Edward 
 the First they were wrought; but in the tumultuous 
 raigne of his sonn they might chance to be forgotten, 
 until his nephew, Edward the Third, who, In his 
 French conquest, made good use of them ; and so did 
 Henry the Fifth : and lately in our age, in the tyme 
 of Queen Elizabeth, there was found anew lode in the 
 land of Richard Roberts, gentleman, first began n to 
 be wrought by Adrian Gilbert, Esq., and after by Sir 
 Beavis Bulmer, Knt., by whoes mynerall skill great
 
 DEVONSHIUE. 139 
 
 juaiiletie ol" silver was laiuled anci rcliiied, of whicli he 
 Jive a rich and ra)tT cup to the Kii^hi Hon. WiUiain 
 J!arl of baUiL', wheicou wos engraven : 
 
 In Martin's-Conibe lon^ lay I livd, 
 
 Obscured doprest with t;ros>scr ^onIo, 
 Dehaicd much wit!) mixed load, 
 
 'lill Huhner came, whot s skill and loyle 
 lit fined lue so j)ure and cleene, 
 
 As rvcher no wljere els is seene; 
 And adding yet a farder gn\ce, 
 
 ll\ I'a-shiiiU lie did inahle 
 Me worihy for to take a place 
 
 'I'o Serve at any prince's table. 
 Conibc-Martin gave the use alone, 
 nuliMcr fining and fashion. 
 
 Anno nostra.' SJilutis \393. 
 Itegina.' virginis 35. 
 N'oblissimo viro Williclino Coiuiti Barthcon, Locum- 
 Tcnenti Devonia- et Oxon. 
 lie gave me also another, with a cover, to the Hon. 
 *^ir Richard Martin, Knight, Lord Mayor of the Cilie 
 ■4 London, to contynue to the said citie for ever. It 
 wayeth 1 J7 ounces line, belter than sterlinge, on which 
 these verses are yet to be seen : 
 
 \V Ian wjittr woikes in Droaken Wharfc 
 
 At first trocted weare, 
 And Bcvis Buhner with his art 
 
 Tl»e waters 'gan to reare, 
 Disperced I in earth dyd lie 
 
 •Since all beginninge ohl, 
 In place called Comb, where Martin lon^^c 
 
 Had hid ine in liis inolde. 
 I did no service on the earth, 
 
 liut no man set me free. 
 Till liulmer, by his skill and change. 
 Did frame me this to be. 
 
 Anno nobtr^e Redemtionis 1593. 
 Reginae virginis 35. 
 Richarardo Martino militi ; iteium mnjori sive, dice 
 secunda civitulis London."
 
 140 TOPOGRAPHICAL DESCRIPTIOX OF 
 
 About seven miles to the east of Combe-Martin, 
 is the small village of Linton; about half a inile 
 north-west of which is the Valley of Stones, so called 
 from its being covered with inmiense fragments of 
 stones. 
 
 Even to those who have examined the Valley of 
 Stones, it may not be unpleasant to retrace objects 
 with which they must have been uncommonly struck, 
 and to those who never had that pleasure, it may not 
 prove unentertainiiig to be brought acquainted with a 
 lusus Natum, which though extremely romantic, is 
 but Httle known. The scenery in the valley is pe- 
 culiar; where the hills slope towards the west, they 
 are spotted with loose detached rocks, which in several 
 parts lie scattered about their bases. After this the 
 summits of she succeeding hills become more rugged, 
 assuming the shape of ruined towers, obelisks, and 
 other fantastic forms. At the entrance of the valley 
 we begin to ascend the craggy hills. In their com- 
 mencement from the rising plain they are less broken 
 in their appearance, and cultivated in patches at 
 places not inaccessible. These traces of human in- 
 dustry, thus obtrudirg themselves into the barren 
 valley, accord not with the^wildness of the scenery, 
 and violate, as it were, the general idea of solitude. 
 
 As we advance into the valley, the rocky eminences 
 impress a reverential kind of awe, their sloping sides 
 often terminating in headlong precipices; the variety 
 of their stupendous rutiged forms, and many fragments 
 shivered from them, lia\e rolled into the narrow plain. 
 Surrounded by them on all «^ides, except towards the 
 sea, at the bottom of the valley, one seems to be 
 secluded from society by impassable barriei-s. Silence 
 heightens the illusion, though this is at times inter- 
 rupted by the cries of the kite and hawk, imparting 
 an additional wildness to the scene. 
 
 At its lower extremity, uhere the valley is widest, 
 about four hundred feei, in the very centre, a large 
 bulwark rises, like some gigantic buildinii, in part 
 demolished. More than half of the valleyls shut up
 
 UF.voNsiiir.E. 14}. 
 
 iiom the sea Ijy its broad base; but, lessening by 
 tlegrees, it rises to ;i considerable height, and ter- 
 uiiiiatts in a conical form. In this valley imagination 
 uould he at a hjis to tinure to itself u ruder congeries 
 i)C (jbjecls. Rucks piled on rocks nt one place iii 
 unc(|(uil and rough layers; at another transverse, and 
 4liagonally inclined against each other. In short, in 
 every possible lorm that can be conceived, threatening, 
 however, every in<jment to be di^Joined, to precipitate 
 iliemselvrs into the valley, or beyond it, into the 
 depth of the waters. 
 
 On the left side there is a rock, which projecting 
 boldly from the inclining steep, and thrustint; itself 
 f(jrward, opposes the ^Severn Sea with its broad per- 
 jtendicular front, chequered with ivy, and tinted with 
 \ ariegated moss. On either side the conical moun- 
 tain, the valley loses itself rapidly in the sea. The 
 clilfs being at times elevated above the farm lands 
 within, protect them from the north wind, which 
 unchecked, impedes liie harvest a>ul iviry kind of 
 vegetation. 'Ihe distant woods, intermingled with 
 the corn and pasture grouiwl, form a pleasing and 
 fctriking contrast with the scenery on this side, which, 
 without the picturesque, comprises every thing wild 
 and magnificent. The central part of the valley 
 contains several circles of stone, above forty feet in 
 tliametcr, most probably Druidical remains. 
 
 The several portions of the scenery in this valley 
 are so various and complicated in their composition, 
 that they seem to mock all art, and preclude imita- 
 tion. Still. the etVect upon the contemplative mind, 
 and the admirer of the grand and romantic appear- 
 ances of Nature, will in every instance be the same. 
 The sensation:? impressed by a survey of such retreats 
 from theJjusy world, are always of the niost soothing 
 kiml. 
 
 " liall awful scenes that calm the troubled breast, 
 And woo the weary to profound repose ! 
 Luu Pas-lion's wildest uproar lay to rest, 
 And whisper comfort to the man of woes?
 
 142 TOPOGRAPHICAL DESCRIPTION OF 
 
 Here Innocence may wander sate from foe;;. 
 And Contemplation soar on serapl) wings. 
 O Solitude! the man wlio lliee foregoes, 
 
 When luci-e hn-es him, or Ambition liings, 
 Shall never know the soince whence leal grandeur 
 springs," 
 Dr. Maton has particularly described this curious 
 place, in the following words: " Advancing into this 
 extraordinary valley, \^e had a grand view of the 
 Severn through an abrupt opening in the rocks. 
 Taking a retrospect, we caught one of the hills we 
 had passed, retiring behind the mountains to the 
 south, but still showing its conical wood-encircled 
 summits with the most happy effect. A sort of na- 
 tural pillar presently attracted our notice, mantled 
 venerably with ivy and moss, and thrusting itself 
 forward from the steep with a bold perpendicularity. 
 * Surely,' we exclaimed, * this must he the work of 
 human hands, which have thus piled these huge rocks 
 on each other for some purpose of superstition. The 
 solemnity of the situation, perhaps, appeared to the 
 Druids well suited to the object of their sacred cere- 
 monies.* On close inspection, liowever, we were 
 compelled to ascribe the architecture to Nature 
 alone, for none but herself could have placed the 
 masses so as to preserve the direction of the grain 
 throughout in such a perfect parallelism, or joined 
 them with such nicety. As she is often fantastic in 
 her workmanship, there is no reason why, at the 
 time of some great convulsion, she should have not 
 erected regular columns and groups of rocks in the 
 Valley of Stones, as well as among the granite hills 
 of Cornwall and Dartmoor, or in the basaltic cave of 
 Fingal. As we proceeded, the declivities gradually 
 became less broken and craggy, and at last assumed 
 an aspect rather verdant and composed. Immense 
 blocks of stone, however, still covered the valley; 
 distance sometimes almost imposed on our judgment, 
 and we were often about to attribute the grotcbque 
 arrangement we witnessed to the efforts of art ; but
 
 DE\uN>Ull.t, 143 
 
 altenlive observiilion always broui^ht us back to a 
 dirterent conclusion. Partially counterfeiting design, 
 as if to bport with ber apectators, Nature confessed, 
 in a wanton eccentricity, that the distribution was all 
 licr own. Tracer of cultivation and human industry 
 now obtruded themselves tbrounh tlic broad gap uf 
 the valley, and expelled those pleasinf! ideas of soli- 
 tude an(l stciusii.'U which the primaeval wildncss and 
 It-nce of these sublime scenes liad first inspired. 
 
 '• The length of this valley is, as I imagine, nearly a 
 mile: in width, towards the village of Linton, which is 
 situated near its eastern extremity, it measures full 
 300 feet ; but not so nmch at the opposite end, where 
 the gap is very evidently narrower. The first idea 
 that oilers itaelf in speculating on the origin of this 
 extraordinary pass is, that it must have been the course 
 of a vast and violent torrent, which from the broad 
 opening towards the sea, and tlie more craggy torn 
 surface of the mountain, would seem to have poured 
 itself into the Severn at the western extren.ity." 
 
 The church of Linton is a plain unornamrnted 
 building, and hence the road descends rapidly to the 
 vallies. It is a bad y\lpine way down a mountain, 
 all Imt perpendicular, making many traverses so close, 
 that per^i^ns aflvancing in the ditVereut windings, ap- 
 pear to be moving in the most opposite directions. 
 From the middle of this declivity, at an angle of 
 turning, the two rivulets, called the East and West 
 Lin, appear beneath one's feet, hurrying over many 
 an obstructing rock, but uniting before they lose 
 themselves in the sea. 
 
 On the western side of the East Lin, the mountain 
 declining steeply on both sides from tlie church of 
 Countisbury, termir.atesin a point just above a bridge 
 with two arches. Beyond this, and still more east- 
 ward, the cliffs rise from the sea nearly in a perpendi- 
 cular line, to the height of three or four hundred feet, 
 rounding as they rise, and trending on for some space 
 till they shut out, by the intervention of Foreland
 
 144 TOPOGKAPKICAL DESCRIPTION OF 
 
 On the west of these a picturesque woodland dell 
 apoears glittering in its dark recesses, \Nith a ;>ucces- 
 sion of sHver water-falls, whilst a bleak barren moun- 
 tain seems to frown above, having a channelled furrow- 
 on one of its sides, strongly tinted with a reddish 
 colour, the occasional passage of a fretting torrent. 
 On the little quay on the western side of the rivulets 
 just below their junction, are a number of decent 
 houses. Beneath the quay is a wear, marked out in 
 the water by parallel lines of long poles, where salmon 
 and herrings are sometimes caught. The beacli of 
 Linmouth is bordered by a charming little green. 
 
 At this little sea-port the Linmouth oysters, which 
 here sell for two shillings per hundred, are shipped for 
 other places, and necessaries from Bristol imported, for 
 the consumption of the place and the neighbourhood. 
 
 Journey from Barnstaple to Plymouth; by uay of 
 South Moltou, Chumlcigh, Oakhamptony and Ta- 
 vistock. 
 
 On leaving Barnstaple, we proceed south-easterly 
 over a very cold and dreary country; and at the dis- 
 tance of three miles pass the village of Swimdridce, 
 very agreeably situated in a valley on the left ; and 
 about a mile farther on the right, as pleasantly, ihc 
 village of Bishop's Nympton. " 
 
 At the distance of about three miles from Swim- 
 bridge, adjoining the road, Filleigh-castle, the splen- 
 did seat of Earl Fortescue, stands on the acclivity of 
 a fine wooded eminence, whose summit is decorated 
 with the artificial semblance of a ruined castle. The 
 various grounds in front, slope towards a fine sheet of 
 water, and are diversified by stately groves; beyond 
 this the grounds again rise, and an elegant triumphal 
 arch, erected on the top of a hill, closes the scene. 
 The park also contains several ornamental buildings, 
 and presents some very pleasing scenery. 
 
 South Molton, so called to distinguish it from the 
 village of North Molton, is an ancient market and 
 borf/ugh town, pleasantly situated upon an eminence
 
 DEV0N5HI11E. 145 
 
 near the west side of the river Mole. Previous to 
 the Con(jUcbt it formed part of the demesnes of Ed- 
 ward the Confessor; hut in the reign of Edward I. 
 l>ehjntred to William Lord Murtyn, wjio iield it by tlie 
 service of providing a man witli a bow aiid thre^ 
 arrows to attend the Earl of Gloucester when hunting 
 in the neighhourhootl. The church is a spacious and 
 h.mdsome fabric containing several good monuments 
 and a large organ. The Guildhall is a convenient 
 buililing, and the market-place extensive and well- 
 built. Many of the inhabitants are employed in the 
 manufacture of serges, shalloons, antl felts, and in 
 procuring lin^e trom the various pits in the vicinity, 
 llere is a tree-school for the children of the more re- 
 spectable inhabitants, and a charity-school, ike. for 
 the others: in the former the late Judge Duller was 
 taught iIk' rudiments of that extensive knowledge 
 whicl) rendered him an ornament to iiis profession. 
 
 A free-school was founded and endowed here in 
 1611. According to the return of 18Q1, the number 
 of houses here were 572, and the inhabitants 3053. 
 The market is held on Saturday. 
 
 About seven miles south from South Molton is 
 CiiUM LEIGH, or Chiinleigh, a small market-town, si- 
 tuated on the north bank of the river Dart. 'I'here 
 was formerly a castle at this place, of which there are 
 now no remains. The church was formerly collegiate, 
 and four prebends are still annexed to the rectory. 
 This building was much damaged by lightning in 1797. 
 The parisi) of Chumleigh contains 105G inhabitants. 
 
 About two miles south of Chumleigh, at Eggesford, 
 is the seat of the Hon. Newton Fellowes. This man- 
 sion, constructed of brick, was erected about the year 
 1718; but has been since considerably improved and 
 enlarged. The late Mr. Richmond laid out the sur- 
 rounding grounds with much elegance and taste ; 
 plantations and woods judiciously mterspcraed, with 
 the river Taw, greatly conlribute to enrich the pre- 
 sent scene. 
 
 The next place we come to is Bow, a small market- 
 O
 
 146 TOPOGKArilieAL DESCKirriON OF 
 
 town, situated on the east side of one of the branches 
 of the Taw, having nothing to attract tlie notice of the 
 traveller. 
 
 At the distance of about eleven miles from Bow, 
 we pass through the town of Oakhampton, which being 
 already described in a former journey, we shall here 
 insert an account of Ilatherleigh, and then proceed on 
 our road to Tavistock. 
 
 About six miles north of Oakhampton is Hatiier- 
 LEicn, an ancient market and incorporated town, 
 situated on a branch of the river Torridge, near its 
 confluence with the Oke. The town has but a mean 
 appearance, the houses being in general built of whjvt 
 is called cobb-wailing, or red earth and thatch. 
 
 The inhabitants, of which there are 1499, are 
 chiefly employed in agriculture, and the woollen ma- 
 nufacture. The number of houses is 286. The go- 
 vernment of the town is vested in a portreeve, two 
 constables, and other inferior oflicers annually chosen. 
 
 Pursuing our journey, at the distance of about nine 
 miles from Oakhampton, we pass through Lydford, 
 now a miserable village, consisting of a rew mud cot- 
 tages. It was formerly a place of consequence; and, 
 according to Prince, this ancient town and borough 
 was the largest parish in the county or the kingdom, 
 and the whole forest of Dartmoor belonged to it. 
 Lydford formerly sent members to parliament, but 
 was excused upon the inhabitants pleading propter 
 pavpertatem. There are the remains of an ancient 
 tower, or keep of a castle, near the place. 
 
 The bridge is a rustic piece of workmanship, con- 
 necting with two frightful precipices, which from the 
 similarity observable in the figure of their sides, ap- 
 pear to have been separated by some violent con- 
 vulsion of the earth. The closeness of the cliffs, and 
 the depth of the water, eighty feet, prevent any one 
 from seeing the bottom of the river, unless the weather 
 be very fine, though its roaring may be heard at all 
 time-s in a variety of notes. About two miles south of 
 the bridge is the first cascade; but, as the approach
 
 DLVONSHIRE. 147 
 
 to ic 15 rai;.er intricate, a guide will be nece-5ary, arni 
 the path to the lower yound is not eaiily round hy 
 strangers. Dismounting at the foot ot" a lofty hil;, 
 you are conducted to its summit, where there is a 
 inagniticeiit v\tw of the country, but the river is not 
 discernibie. Descending the hi:i by a winding path, 
 you behold the Lyd, harassed by the many obstruc- 
 tioijs in its way, leaping from a precipice at least 140 
 feet iiigh, and falling into a deep basin forined by the 
 violence of the waters: hence, in a winding direction, 
 it pursues i:s course to the Tamar, which it joins a 
 little below Lifton, about nine miles from the Falls. 
 
 The principal cascade here can only be seen to 
 advantage after some heavy rains. In summer time, 
 and during fine weather, it is a mere spout. 
 
 In this neighbourhood, in the precincts of Dart- 
 moor, in a valley under the granite mountains, about 
 five miles from Tavistock, is a copper-mine called 
 Huel Friendship ; though not more than twenty-three 
 fathoms deep, it has a rich vein of ores. This mine 
 is 100 fathoms deep, or, above 500 feet below the 
 common surface of the ground ; this is one of the most 
 productive in the county. About one mile eastward 
 from this mine are two tin-mines, HuelJuel, and Uuel 
 Unity, and near the mines are furnaces for roasting 
 the ore. About three miles from Lydford, on the 
 right of our road, is Brent-tor, a vast mass of craggy 
 rock, of so considerable a height as to be a conspicuous 
 sea-mark to mariners in the British Channel, though 
 more than twenty miles distant. Near the top is a 
 small church. Three miles from hence is Lamerton- 
 church, in wliich is a curious monument of the 2're- 
 inains, with the em^ies of two brothers of that famiiy, 
 twins; of whom R.isdon records some extraordinary 
 particulars, as to their perfect resemblance of each 
 other. 
 
 Two miles from hence is Tavistock, a large and 
 populous town,, situated on the left side of the favy ; 
 the houses have in general the appearance of anti- 
 quity, and the streets are narrow. The church is a 
 O S
 
 148 TOPOGUAPHFCAL DESCRTI'TrON 01 
 
 lart;c building, dedicated to St. Eustatius : it has four 
 aisles, a chancel, and a tower at the west end, raised 
 on arciies. In the church there are some curious 
 monuments, and some human bones preserved, of 
 gigantic size, found in a stone cotHn ihi^^ out of the 
 rums of tlie abbev; supposed, from some traditionary 
 authority, to bethose of Adulph,\vhom William of 
 Malmsb'ury describes as being of so immense a stature, 
 that he could stride over rivers ten feet wide. 
 
 This borough has sent representatives to parliament 
 ever since the twenty-first of Edward the First, al- 
 though it does not appear to have been then incor- 
 porated. The number of voters is about 110. I he 
 town is governed by a portreeve, elected annually at 
 the lord's court, by twenty-four freeholders. lie is 
 also the returning officer. 
 
 The manufacture of serges and coarse woollen cloth 
 is carried on here to a considerable extent. The 
 mining business begins to find employment for many 
 of the inhabitants. A canal runs from hence to the 
 Tamar, a distance of four miles, two of which pass 
 through a rock, in which they found several lodes or 
 veins of copper- ore. This canal was opened for the 
 navigation of boats on the 24th of .Tune, 1817. 
 
 Tavistock has a very large market, and is one of 
 the most improving towns in Devonshire. 
 
 A new road from Tavistock to Launceston was be- 
 gun in 1822. Towards this improvement the Duke of 
 Bedford contributed 1000/. 
 
 In the summer of 1822 an elegant building, in the 
 Greek style, was opened at this place as a public 
 library, under the direction of a number of gentlemen, 
 with the Vicar, the Rev. Mr. Bray. 
 
 About three miles from Tavistock is Morwell-house, 
 anciently a hunting-seat belongmg to the abbots of 
 Tavistock ; it is situated near Morwell Down and the 
 woods on the banks of the Tamar. 
 
 Near this place is Morwell-rock, thus described by 
 the Rev. Mr. Polwhele : " Morwell-rock is an emi- 
 nence projecting almost perpendicularly over the river
 
 D£VO.VSHlRr. 149 
 
 1 auiar, uiid exluliitui^ at unci' so romantic a scene as, 
 ;ii llic opiuioij of ^ood iravellcMj judges, is not to be 
 equalled t'vcji in Europe. Tlic scene is trenjfudous, 
 and vet beautiful several hundred yards under oui- 
 fetl/ 
 
 Tavistock is celebrated Tor its Abbey, of wliicii 
 some remains are still to be sci'ii. The abbey-lands 
 wire ;;ranted,on the dissolution, to the Russel family. 
 1 be I)uke of Uedford has lately bujlt a handsome 
 house on the banks of the Tamar. This is of a very 
 singular descrjpuon : it consists of a large cluster of 
 elegant cottages connected by covered verandas, so 
 that earli|)en>onof the faiuilyiwis his separate iodginos 
 under ^epa^atc roof^. 
 
 Brent- J or is four miles north of Tavistock. This 
 i> a mass of craig^y rock, which risinj» in the midst of 
 an eleiated down to a considemble heiL:ht, is a good 
 sea-mark for marinep* in the briush Ciiannel, though 
 more than twiiity miles distant. Upon the very top 
 of the rock, within a few feet of the ed:;e on its 
 steepest side, and a basis of little more extent than 
 the building, btands the parish church, upon whicli is 
 appositely inscribed from .*5cripture, " Upon this rock 
 will 1 build my church, and the i;atcs of hell shall not 
 prevail against it." It is said of the parishioners 
 here, that they make uerkly atonement for their sins, 
 as they cannot go to church without the previous 
 penaiu e of climbing up this steep ; and the worthy 
 pastor is frequently obliged to go on all-fours previous 
 to his beins exalted in the pulpit. When not en- 
 velopt^-d in clouds, the prospect here is very extensive 
 and interesting, including the ships in Plymouth har- 
 bour, Ccc. 
 
 On leaving Tavistock, we proceed southerly, and 
 at the distance of live miles pass <»n our ri<;ht Buck- 
 land MoNACUOKUM, whosfc iiandsome church, and 
 the monuments it contains, arc worthy the traveller* 
 notice, particularly that erected to the memory of 
 Lord Heathheld, the gallant defender of Gibraltar, 
 O 3
 
 150 TOPOGRAPHICAL DESCRIPTION OP 
 
 executed by J. Bacon, R. A. 1795, bearing the fol- 
 lowing inscription: 
 
 Sacred to the Memory of 
 
 George Augustus Elliot, Baron Heathfield, 
 
 OF Gibraltar, 
 
 Knight of the Bath, General of His Majesty's Forces, 
 
 and Governor of Gibraltar. 
 
 He uasthe seventh son of Sir Gilbert Elliot, Bart. 
 
 ofStols, in the county of Roxburgh, in Scotland. 
 
 The University of Leyden enriched his mind wiiii 
 
 Science, and formed his taste for Literature 
 
 and the Polite Arts. 
 
 The bias of his Genius soon inclined him to the 
 
 Profession of Arms, in which lie rose by rci:,ular 
 
 Gradation to the highest Eminence, and 
 
 At length closed a brilliant Career 
 
 With immortal Glory. 
 
 Germany beheld him in the War of Seven Years, 
 
 Discharging all the Duties of a 
 
 Gallant Officer. 
 
 The British Cavalry owed to him a System of 
 
 Discipline that made him 
 
 2V/e Pride of their Country. 
 
 The Havannah, the Metropolis of the Island of Cuba, 
 
 Saw-him among the Officers who levelled her boasted 
 
 Fortifications, and conquered by their Valour. 
 
 Gibi^altar was reserved to crown him with unfading 
 
 Laurels : 
 
 Though closely pressed during a Siege that lasted 
 
 three years without intennission, 
 
 He remained invincible. 
 
 The spectacle which he there exhibited to the eyes of 
 
 France and Spain, and to the Amphitheatre of 
 
 Princes, who beheld the glorious Scene, 
 
 will be an eternal Memorial of 
 
 British Courage, and British Humanity. 
 
 General Elliot derived no Hereditary Honours from 
 
 his Ancestors; 
 
 His Titles were earned by Services to his Country.
 
 DEVONSIIIIIE. 151 
 
 Ilf ijiarricd Ann Polexen Drakf, daucliter of Sik 
 
 Francis Diiake, liait. 
 
 Wlio lies interred near this hpot : 
 
 And l.v her IcU a Dautihttr, who was married to 
 
 John Tray ton Fuller^ Esq. 
 
 And an only Son, now Lord Heath field, 
 
 Who has creeled tiiis Monument to the Virtue whicli 
 
 he admired. 
 
 History will tell the rest. 
 
 lie died July 6ih, 1790, aged 72 years. 
 
 At (he top is a niedallion ot' the vencrahio and 
 illus>trious Lord Ileathfield, as the brave defender of 
 (jihraltar. Below is a figure of liritimnia holding; the 
 model of the pate of a fortress, inscribed plus ullrn; 
 and a boy wiilj n key and a palm branch, holding a 
 ^hield. On the monument are four bas-reliefs, re- 
 prcsenlin;:, first ft piece of ordnance NNith a lighted 
 match: w.cond, a furnace for heatinc red-hot shot, 
 cannons, ralverins, \'c. : third, Lortl Ileathfield «li- 
 recting miiit;iry operations : fourth, tloating batteries 
 on fire, and drowninp sailors rescued from the waves. 
 
 Near this monument is a small mural tablet, with 
 the fii;nre of Truth leanin«j over an urn; under which 
 i3 the follo\^ing meiiiuriai ; 
 
 " In a vault beneath are interred the remains of Sir 
 Francis Henry Drake, Bart, of Buckland-abbey, in the 
 county of Devon. He died on the 9th of February 
 1794, aged .'•evcnty years. His descent was illustrious, 
 being lineally descended from the great naval warrior 
 of the ICth century. His natural and acquired en- 
 dowments were such, that had the strentith ^A' his 
 constitution been equal to the powers of his nnnd, he 
 might justly have aspired to the first othces of the 
 state. He was clerk-comptroller of the board of green 
 cloth, in the reigns of their Majesties George the 
 Second and George the Third ; and for more than 
 twenty years immediately preceding his death, was 
 master of the king's household, the duties of which 
 stations he discharged with fidelity to the king, and 
 Louour to himself. In testimony of the respect due
 
 152 TOPOGRAPHICAL DE;>CKIPT10X OF 
 
 to his memory, his nephew the Ri^ht Hon. Francis 
 Augustus Lord Heathlield, Baron of Gibraltar, caused 
 this monument to be erected." 
 
 A little to the south of Buckland Monachorura is 
 Buckland-abbey. 
 
 Buckland-abbey is now the seat of Sir T. T. Fuller 
 Elliot Drake. The original of this foundation, as a 
 Cistercian monastery, was in 1278, by Ameiia, wife 
 of Baldwin de Rivers, Earl of Devon. Many of the 
 ancient features of a monastic edifice are still visible ; 
 but the alterations necessarily made to convert it into 
 an agreeable modern edifice, have nearly obliterated 
 its original features. 
 
 About two miles from this place is Maristow, the 
 seat of Sir Manasseh Lopez; it is a place of con- 
 siderable beauty, situated also on the eastern bank 
 of the Tavy. 
 
 Near Maristow is Bickham, Sir William Elford, Bart. 
 This is a beautiful seat, and its surrounding grounds 
 are rendered liighly picturesque, by their inequality, 
 the windings of the Tavy, and the rich hanging woods. 
 
 In the church of BERE-FEunis, a village situated 
 on the western side of the Tavy, there are several 
 curious monuments. 
 
 Beke-Alston, although an obscure and very small 
 hamlet, in the parish of Bere-Ferris, has the privilege 
 of sending representatives to parliament. The number 
 of electors entirely depends upon the lord of the 
 manor, who, by granting burgage tenures to his own 
 partisans, may increase them at his own j)leasure ; 
 and, after having served the purpose, these burgage 
 tenures are resigned as soon as the election is con- 
 cluded. The portreeve, who is annually chosen at 
 the lord's court, is the returning officer. 
 
 There are several lead-mines of inconsiderable va- 
 lue at Bere-Alston. The ore is sometimes found to 
 be impregnated with silver, and in the reign of Ed- 
 ward I. the produce is said to have been so great, that 
 16 cwt. of silver was obtained in the course of three 
 years.
 
 l>E\'oNSfllRK 
 
 Mntwr Hous,- Birkl.
 
 i)EvoN>imiE. ia'o 
 
 li.p nc'.vt village is St. BuHeoux, vulgarly a»lle<i 
 TjI'Dsiikd; it is t'ituali-d on :iii eminence, two miles to 
 tii^' south of Ik re- Ferris, uiul five miles north of Ply- 
 moiith, near the river Taniar, and commandinj; most 
 deliiihtful prospects over the adjacent country. The 
 manor is now the property of CJ. II. Clark, Esq. The 
 mansion-house is a very ancient building, rapidly f.dling 
 to deo'.y ; at present only inhabited by n farmer. 
 
 This village and church are [)laced on a conspicuous 
 elevation. I'hc view from the church-yard, extending 
 ovir the Tamar — which expands like n broad lake, 
 and com[)rehending the varied and charming objects 
 which adorn its sinuous banks, cannot fail to excite 
 our warmest admiration. The church, which originally 
 stood at the north western extremity of the parish, 
 near the water's edge, was taken down and rebuilt in 
 the present more eligible and central situation, by 
 Roger Budeokshead, or Budshead. An antique mo- 
 nument in the north aisle, is raised to the memory of 
 his daughter, who was the first person buried in the 
 church. Many tablets in the floor, indicate the suc- 
 cessive possessors of Budshead ; and a costly mural 
 monument, dated 1618, is inscribed to Richard Tre- 
 ville, Ksq. and his family. In the same aisle are 
 monuments of Sir Thoma'i Byard, of Mount Tamar, 
 and his lady. A costly and elegant monument records 
 the early decease of Cordelia, daughter of Robert Fan- 
 shawe, Esq. (late commissioner of the dock-yard), and 
 wife of Capt. White. Near the latter is the handsome 
 monument of John Fownes, Esq. of W hitlcigh, who 
 died in 1670 ; and in the south aisle, a tablet, with a 
 funeral lamp on a sarcophagus, beautifully sculptured 
 in white marble, commemorative of the fan)ily of 
 Docton, of WhitleJLdi. In the same aisle are a neat 
 monument of the Luces, of Woodland; an elegant 
 marble monument, richly draperied, of Lewis Starkly, 
 Esq. who died in 1693 ; and a handsome monument 
 near the south door, to the memory of the Fortescues 
 of llonicknowle, surmounted l-y the family arms. Tlve 
 church was neatly repaired a few years sinc^, princi-
 
 154 TOPOGRAPHICAL DESCRIPTION Or 
 
 pally at the expence ot' the Rev. S. VV. Gaudy, wlio at 
 that time discharged the pastoral duties of the parish. 
 The present minister is the Rev. J. Richards. Our 
 progress from St. Budeaux will be arrested by the de- 
 lightful prospect which opens to the view frojn a little 
 eminence above King's Tamerton : in front, is Salt- 
 ash, and the channel of the Lynher, broken by the 
 picturesque projections of Antony and Ince. The bold 
 land whicli abuts upon the Tamar, hides its windings 
 from our view ; and the expansive portion of its 
 waters on the south, appear like two inland seas; one 
 crowded with innnenae floating castles of war — the 
 peaceful surface of the other rarely disturbed by the 
 little bark of domestic commerce. 
 
 The ancient mansion-house of VVarleigh is beauti- 
 fully situated near the junction of the Tavy with the 
 Tamar, a little to the north of the last-mentioned 
 place; the grounds are well laid out, and extremely 
 pleasant. 
 
 Returning to our road, at the distance of about 
 fourteen miles from Tavistock, we arrive at 
 
 PLYMOUTH, 
 One of the largest maritime towns in England, and a 
 place of considerable antiquity, but inhabited princi- 
 pally by fishermen, till the reign of Henry H., since 
 which period it has risen into great consequence, 
 through the goodness of its haven, and the vast in- 
 crease of the British navy. 
 
 After the Norman Conquest, Plymouth acquired the 
 name of South-town^ or Sutton. In the reign of Ed- 
 ward I. it was called Sutton Frior, and Sutton Valle- 
 tort ; the north parts of the town being situated on 
 the lands of the Prior of Plympton, and the south part 
 on the estates of the Valletorts. These names were 
 relinquished in the reign of Henry the Sixth, for the 
 more appropriate appellation of Plym-mouth, and was 
 much enlarged by the prudence of one of the Priors 
 of Plympton, and its own rising consequence, about 
 the year 1438. 
 
 Plymouth is situated at the mouth of the river Plym,
 
 DEVfiN^HIKE. J55 
 
 a little distance from its junction witli the ocenn : the 
 streets in general are ill constructed, narrow, irre^uL'^r, 
 and some of them steep, and many ot the hvc streets 
 even filthv. This however is to be principally under- 
 stood of the oldest part of the town. 
 
 The central and more ancient districts of Plymouth 
 are narrow and inconvenient : but tljc modern addi- 
 tions of Brunswick-terrace, Gascoigne-place, Tavis- 
 tock-street, Park-street, Frankfort-street, and George- 
 street, ari' striking instances of an improved taste. 
 
 The Mayor is the chief magistrate, and is annually 
 elected on St. Lambert's day, the 17th of September. 
 The (Quarter-Sessions for the borough commence on 
 the Monday after the (Quarter-Session for the county. 
 Watchmen are stationed at different parts of the town, 
 and commence tin ir rounds at ten (/clock at night. 
 
 '* Plymouth presents the admirers of ancient archi- 
 tecture with several curious specin)ens of buildinii. 
 St. Andrew's Church, in particular, is highly interesting 
 in this respect; consisting of a nave, aisles, and chancel, 
 with a tower ornamented with pinnacles. It formerly 
 belonged to a monastery, which has long since been 
 converted into wine-vaults, and so mutilated, that but 
 little remains of the original structure. This monastery 
 is supposed to have been erected at least 500 years 
 sin'-e ; but no documents relative to it remains." It 
 contains many curious monuments; and the organ is 
 said to surpass all in the west of England, from its 
 power, richness, and swell. Charles Church, which 
 was built in the reign of Charles II., and intended to 
 perpetuate the memory of his unfortunate parent, lies 
 on the north side of the town. The present Vicar is 
 the well-known Dr. Hawker. There are meeting- 
 houses for Dissenters of all kinds, and a synagogue for 
 Jews. 
 
 To give any thing like a correct account of the Dis- 
 senting congregations of the present day at Plymouth, 
 Mr. Lysons observes, is extremely ditficult, the Dis- 
 senters themselves being by no means agreed as to 
 the denominations of the several sects. However, it
 
 156 TOPOGRAPHICAL DESCRIPTION OF 
 
 15 allowed by all, that those of the Presbyterian and 
 Iiiflependeiit are grown obsolete, together wiiii the 
 circumstances which gave rise to them. Most of ti'.e 
 Presbyterian congregations are become Unitarians, 
 nnd some of the Independents : others, abandoning 
 the name of Independents, call themselves moderate 
 Calvinists. Others again call themselves Independent 
 Calvinists. Tiiere are several congregations at Ply- 
 mouth-dock. Besides Quakers and VVesleyaus in Ply- 
 mouth and the neighbouring towns, there are meeting- 
 houses of the Briganites, and Baringites, and a Jews' 
 synagogue. The former of these have introduced 
 female preachers. 
 
 The theatre is also a large and handson^e building. 
 Besides several Sunday-schools, (Sec. here is aGraunnar- 
 school erected in 1573, and endowed for a muster with 
 a salary of SO/, per annum, a dwelling-house, and a 
 garden. An Asylum for Female Penitents, reading 
 societies, and several book-clubs, liave been establiahcd 
 here. 
 
 The Guildhall is a modern structure, somewhat of 
 a triangular form ; spacious, but rather inconveniently 
 situated at the junction of four streets, three of which 
 are very narrow. The streets in general are close, 
 but tiiey have the advantage of being well paved, 
 cleaned, and lighted. Good inns, (Sec. may be ex- 
 pected in so considerable a town of course; the prin- 
 cipal of these are the Pope's Head, Globe, King's 
 Arms, London Inn, Commercial Inn. 
 
 The Royal Hospital is an extensive building, pro- 
 vided with every appropriate convenience for the re- 
 lief and comfort of the sick and hurt seamen and 
 marines. 
 
 The citadel, which lies on the south side of the 
 town, was erected in the reign of Charles II. It 
 stands on the site of a quadrangular castle, erected 
 here in the year 1396, by the direction and at the 
 expence of Edmund Stafford, then Bishop of Exeter ; 
 some few fragments of which still remain in the garden 
 walls, &c. on the hill near the Barbican. The iuha-
 
 DEVuNSHlkL. 157 
 
 bitanls of Plymouth, duriijgtlic Protectornte, espoused 
 the parliaiiiciUnry mtcrtst during the Civil Wars. 
 However, after the Uestoralion, Chnrles 11. paid them 
 a visit in propria persona, when the inhabitants, de- 
 sirous of his good will, presented him, by the iiands 
 of the Mayor, with a purse containing 150 pieces of 
 gold, with which he returned to the metropolis well 
 satisfied. 
 
 Near the citadel is the Viclualling-oince, on ex- 
 tensive rani;e of buildings, where, during the late war, 
 his Majesty's navy was supplied with bread, a ^ufncient 
 quantity being baked in one day for 1(3,000 men, at 
 one pound each. 
 
 Stonehouse, which now connects Plymouth with 
 Plynioulh-dock, or what is more conunonly called 
 Dock, is n villau'e which has long been an improxing 
 place. The Marme-barracks, a line pilt of buildings 
 built of the moiirstone, or granite, on the east of this 
 village, are very extensive. Stonehouse-bridge, the 
 principal a\enue between Plymouth and Dock, was 
 erected at the joint ex pence of the Earl of Mount 
 Edgecnmbe, and Sir John St. .Aubyn, linrt. It con- 
 sists of one handsome arch built of stone; but being 
 subject to a toll froni carriages and passengers, this is 
 estimated at 500/. per annum. Plymouth-dock is 
 situated at the mouth of the Tamar, upon that part of 
 it called the Ham ouze, or Hamoaze, but the town of 
 Dock, tbe village of Stoke, the Dock-yard, Gun- 
 wharf, Military Hospital, and other buildings, are 
 comprehended in the manor and parish of Stoke 
 Damarel, which contains 1600 acres. The manor has 
 the privilege of a court-leet and court-baron; and the 
 number of houses in the town of Dock, between two 
 and three thousand, are all built by tlie inhabitants 
 upon leases for nintty-nine years, granted by the lord 
 of the manor, determinable by the death of three lives, 
 nominated by the lessee, and subject to a small annual 
 quit rent on the death of each life. Plymouth, as it 
 may be expected, is strongly fortified. 
 
 Opposite to the town, and in the middle of the 
 P
 
 158 TOPOGRAPHICAL DFSCT.IPTIOX OF 
 
 harbour, is a small island, called St. Nicholas. It 
 is surrounded with rocks, and has a strong castle and 
 fortifications, with furnaces for heating ball upon it. 
 These fortifications comrtiand the entrance into Ha- 
 moaze and Catwater. On the opposite shore, over 
 against St, Nicholas Island, is the citadel of Plymouth, 
 erected in the reign of Charles IT. The walls of this 
 citadel are three quarters of a mile in circumference, 
 and fortified with five regular bastions, on which, and 
 the curtains, are mounted 165 Itirge pieces of ordnance. 
 
 The town of Plymouth is situated above the citadel, 
 on a gentle declivity of the same rock, sloping towards 
 Catwater, where tliere is a kind of natural mole or 
 haven, called Sutton Pool, irom the ancient name of 
 the town, with a quay and other conveniences for 
 loading and unloading ships. The trade of the town 
 is extensive, but chiefly depending on shipping and the 
 royal navy. The pilchard fishery also forms a con- 
 siderable part of the trade of this port. 
 
 At Plymouth, it should be understood, are two 
 harbours for merchant ships, called Catwater and 
 Sutton Pool. Catwater is at the confluence of the 
 Plym, or rather the Plym passes through it to the sea: 
 it is a large harbour, capable of receiving 1000 sail ot 
 ships. The entrance to Sutton Pool harbour from 
 Catwater is between two large piers, ninety feet apart, 
 erected between 1790 and 1800. 
 
 The Royal Hotel and theatre were commenced in 
 1811, and finished within two years: the whole north 
 front is 275 feet in length, having in the centre a mag- 
 nificent portico of eight Ionic columns, extending 
 seventy-five feet. The portico in the east elevation is 
 fifty-nine feet wide. The theatre occupies the western 
 division of the building, and is a noble edifice, and is 
 generally open four months during the summer. 
 
 The edifice containing the public library is in Corn- 
 wall-street, and was begun in 1811, under the di- 
 rection of Mr. Foulston. 
 
 The law library, the members of which are pro- 
 fessional gentlemen, is held under the same roof.
 
 DF.VO.\bH;RE. 150 
 
 The structure, includin'j; the Flyinouth lasdtutiun, 
 was erected on a spot of ground adjoining the theatre, 
 and the foundation-btone hiid ni May 1818. The 
 chaste and classical elegance of the edifice has heen 
 justly characterized as '' worthy the most flourishing 
 period of any society," and the appellation of 
 AthenieuMi deservedly fjestowed upon a building con- 
 structed after the purest models (jf Grecian architec- 
 ture. Besides the library, the exiiibitions of paintings 
 and pictures, deserve the admiration of all persona 
 possessing taste and judgment. 
 
 The society constituting the Plymouth Institution 
 " owes its formation to the laudable endeavours of 
 Henry Woollcombe, Esq. who had long contemplated 
 the beneficial etVects resulting from societies composed 
 of persons of various pursuits, but whose common 
 object was the cultivation of useful knowledge. That 
 highly respected individual being joined by several 
 other gentlemen, who were inclined cordially to co- 
 operate in the undertakinir, the society was first ori- 
 ginated in the year 1812. Its meetings were then 
 held in the public library, from whence they were re- 
 moved to the picture gallery, in Frankfort-place. The 
 acconniiodations aftbrded by this apartment, being 
 found too limited for the increased numbers and im- 
 portance of the society, it was detennined to erect a 
 building, exclusively appropriated to the purposes of 
 the institution ;— to raise a temple, where the penates 
 of learning and science, might be securely deposited. 
 
 A spot of ground, adjoining tlie theatre, having been 
 previously selected for the purpose, the foundation- 
 stone of the building was laid in the presence of the 
 members, by II. Woollcombe, Esq. senior president 
 for the year,' on the first of May, 1818. The design 
 was furnished by Mr. Foulston, to whom, the society 
 is indebted for his gratuitous services in superintend- 
 ing the work, till the completion in February, 1319, 
 when it was opened tor the public business of the 
 institution. The chaste and classical elegance of the 
 edifice, has been justly characterised as " worthy the 
 P2
 
 160 TOPOORAPHICAL DESCIlIPTfON OF 
 
 most flourishing pcriorl of any society ;" and atTordjS 
 another pleasing specimen of the talents of the archi- 
 tect. The appellation of Athenaum has been de- 
 servedly bestowed upon a building constructed after 
 the purest models of Grecian architecture. 
 
 The front is a Doric portico of four columns, the 
 centre intercolumniation being wider than tlie others, 
 similar to the portico of the temple of Theseus, at 
 Athens, but more massive in its proportions. The 
 sides of the building are plain, beyond the returns of 
 the portico, except that the entablature, with the tri- 
 glyphs and metopes, are continued the whole length 
 of each side. The portico is nearly thirty-six feet in 
 breadth ; each column three feet nine inches in dia- 
 meter, and the whole depth of the building seventy- 
 eight feet. The entrance, from the portico, is into 
 the vestibule, which is ornamented with an entablature, 
 supported by Doric columns; within these, is the stair- 
 case leading to the committee-room. This apartment 
 contains the library of the institution ; nn orrery, 
 electrical machine, air-pump, and other apparatus, 
 for the assistance of members in lectures, and in pri- 
 vate scientific researches. There are also cabinets 
 containing specimens of natural history, among which 
 are some in the mineralogical department, of great 
 curiosity. These have been presented by the mem- 
 bers and other friends to the institution, and may be 
 considered as the rudiments of a museum ; the esta- 
 blishment of which, forms one of the grand objects of 
 the society. This is indeed a most interesting feature 
 in its constitution, when it is notorious that the want 
 of such a public depository, has been the cause why 
 the attainment of many valuable curiosities has been 
 neglected; or why, if attained, their preseiTation has 
 been the subject of so little attention. 
 
 The hall, or lecture-room, is furnished with seats 
 for the president, secretary, and treasurer, and benches 
 for the members placed in an elliptical form round 
 the room; the rostrum for the lecturer, is directly 
 opposite the president's chair. The apartment is
 
 DF.VONbillKE. 161 
 
 lighted from an oblong lantern in the roof, and sutR- 
 cient warmth is aironled by uieiins of tlues, commu- 
 nicating with an heating apparatus in the basement 
 story. 
 
 Casts, the noblest specimens of the golden age of 
 Grecian sculpture, enrich the hall and other apart- 
 ments of this classic temple. On one side, the niag- 
 nificenl Apollo Belvidere, which, whether vindicating 
 his insulted priest, hurling his darts against the chil- 
 dren of Niobe, or exterminating the mon>trous Python, 
 still looks dreadful in godlike majesty. There the 
 Medicean Venus, " the statue that enchants the 
 world," beauteous as when her divine charms were 
 unveiled to the shepherd of Ida. Next, the young 
 Antinous, the perfect model of manly symmetry; with 
 a mutilated, but beautit'ul, statue of Cupid. Here the 
 recumbent Ilissus, and there the gigantic, but exqui- 
 site proportions of the 'Jheseus. 
 
 Over the president's chair, is placed a colossal bust 
 of Minerva, and nine recesses are occupied by nine 
 of the fit'teen metopes which, alternately with the tri- 
 glyph<, adorned the frieze of the Parthenon at Athens. 
 They represent the battle between the Centaurs and 
 the Lapithae, who were assisted by their Athenian 
 allies, under the command of Theseus, against these 
 formidable enemies. In son)e of the sculptures, the 
 Centaurs are victorious, in others the Lapithae have 
 the advantage, while in the rest, the scales of victory 
 appear equally poised*. A portion of the procession 
 extends the whole breadth of the hall, over the door; 
 a smaller portion is placed in the form of a tablet 
 above. The original sculpture composed the exterior 
 frieze of the Cella of the Parthenon, which embel- 
 lished the upper part of the walls within the colonnade, 
 at the height of the Pronaos, and was continued in an 
 
 * These magnificent specimens of ancient art, are 
 executed in alto relievo, and in their original situation, 
 were seen at the height of nearly 44 feet from the 
 ground. 
 
 P3
 
 16^ TOPOGRAPHICAL DESCUIPTION OF 
 
 uninterrupted series of sculptures round the temple.-^ 
 The whole is in very low relief, and represents the 
 sacred procession which was performed at the Great 
 Panatheneea, a festival celebrated at Athens every 
 fifth year, with the utmost pomp and splendour, in 
 honour of Minerva Soteria, the patroness of the city. 
 This portion of the frieze is arranged in the same 
 order in which it would be seen by the spectator who 
 approached the temple by the east, and walked round 
 it by the north, west, and south. 
 
 Among the figures are seen, the directors of the 
 procession, and officers, whose duty it was to receive 
 the presents; next to these, are divinities and deified 
 heroes, seated ; among whom are Jupiter and Juno, 
 Castor and Pollux, Ceres and Triptolemus, ^scula- 
 pius and Hygeia; the remaining space is occupied by 
 groupes of charioteers and horsemen. Whether we 
 consider the beauty of the composition, or the bold 
 and spirited manner in which the artist has embodied 
 his conceptions, the execution of the different figures 
 will still present us with the highest effort of the art 
 of sculpture in the class of low relief, and increase our 
 admiration for the character of the great people, who 
 besides their poets, painters, and orators, could claim 
 as citizens, Praxiteles, Lysippus, and Phidias. 
 
 The Metopes and the Procession are casts from the 
 famous Elgin collection, and were presented to the 
 institution in the most gracious and munificent mian- 
 ner, by his Majesty George the Fourth. The Apollo 
 is the splendid present of Admiral Sir T. B. Martin; 
 the Venus, of Gen. Sir Wm. Congreve ; and the 
 Antinous, that of the Earl of Morley. The bust of 
 Minerva was given by the Rev. R. Lampen, one of 
 the members. The possession of these fine models of 
 ancient sculpture, must be considered as an event of 
 the greatest importance in promoting the progress of 
 the arts, and is justly the boast of the society. 
 
 The institution consists of ordinary, extraordinary, 
 honorary, and corresponding members. Its affairs are 
 under the direction of three presidents, a treasurer,
 
 DEVONSHIRE. 16o 
 
 and «:crctiiry, elected every year from among the 
 ordinary members. The session comnK-nccs annually 
 on the first Thursday in October, and n lecture is 
 delivered every week till the last Thursday in March. 
 The chair is taken at seven o'clock, and an essay is 
 read by one of the ordinary members ; after which, a 
 discussion is entered into, which by the laws of the 
 society, cannot continue after ten. The discussions 
 that follow the lectures are characterised by a spirit 
 of candour and liberality, which, while it must be 
 universally pleasing, cannot fail of being conducive to 
 the prosperity and permanence of the institution. To 
 secure unanimity, subjects tending to dissension, are 
 always avoided : those most fruitful sources of dis- 
 putation, politics, and controversial theology, being 
 prohibited by the laws. 
 
 The collision of talent produced in this society, 
 must frequently elicit sparks of genius, which would 
 perhaps have for ever remained dormant, if they had 
 not been thus kindled into action. — Who will assert, 
 that it may not be the means of fanning the latent 
 flame of" poesy divine," in the breast ot'' some mute 
 inglorious Milton;" of exciting some painter to emulate 
 the fame of Reynolds; some mathematician to aspire 
 after the glories of Newton ? With such anticipations, 
 tlie eulogiun\ of one of its members will be acknow- 
 ledged to be as just as it is elegant, when he praises 
 its " zeal to promote the intellectual character of a 
 town, distinguished by its national importance, and 
 by the residence of men, estimable in literary accom- 
 plishments, and the pursuits of science and the arts*." 
 The same author foresees, in the assemblage of per- 
 sons, " united by the common desire of improving the 
 best possession of their nature, much invaluable enjoy- 
 ment, gladdening the privacy of domestic life — much 
 elevation of character bestowed on social intercourse 
 —many innocent resources afforded, to diversify the 
 
 * Lampen's Discourse on the opening of the 
 Athenicura.
 
 164 TOPOGRAPHICAL DESCRIPTION OP 
 
 occasional sf\meness, to relieve tlie frequent anxieties, 
 and to ennoble the daily pleasures of existence.'' 
 Here men of various talents and acquirements meet, 
 and contribute their quota of informatioa to the ge- 
 neral stock ; and while a laudable emulation is created, 
 each individual enjoys more ample means of prose- 
 cuting his literary studies, or of pursuing his scientific 
 researches, than he could hope for, if relying upon his 
 own unassisted resources. And so long as an anxiety 
 for mutual improvement is paramount among the 
 members, the prosperity and stability of the institution 
 will continue to be a subject of the greatest interest 
 to all who consider the progress of knowledge, as in- 
 timately connected with public and social happiness. 
 
 Another most interesting feature of the Plymouth 
 Institution, is the Exhibition of Paintings, which is 
 opened in the hall of ihe Athenaeum, annually, in 
 the month of August. It consists of the works of 
 artists and amateurs of the town and neighbourhood; 
 and pictures of the Italian, Flemish, Dutch, and 
 British schools, furnished from the collections of the 
 neighbouring nobility and gentry. From these 
 sources, with the specimens of Grecian sculpture 
 already enumerated, an exhibition is produced, which 
 in value or extent, would form no mean rival to those 
 of the metropolis. During the month it continues 
 open, the hall of the Athenaeum is a favourite resort; 
 especially on those evenings when it is lighted up, it 
 becomes the rendezvous of persons of high distinction 
 and fashion, as well as of connoisseurs. The prices 
 of admission are one shilling, and three shillings for 
 general tickets. 
 
 The Exhibition of Pictures was first commenced 
 in 1815, at the Gallery in Frankfort-place. The 
 prqiectors were induced to believe that occasional 
 exhibitions of the admirable works of Reynolds, 
 Northcote, Opie, and of others, whose rising "talents 
 justify the expectation of increasing excellence, would 
 be highly gratifying to the public, and might promote 
 and encourage a taste for the fine arts. But above
 
 DEVON5.HIRE. 1C5 
 
 ftl), tliey considered that sach exhibition? cuuld not 
 fail to opcralo us a powerful btiinulus to future artists. 
 These objects, ns far ns it can be judged, luive been 
 most successfully accomplished. The kindness shewn 
 by proprietors of picture*, and the assistance of re- 
 sident artjsis, have enabled the conductors to pri> 
 »cnt the public annually with im interesting and 
 valuable assemblage of paintings. While the exhibi- 
 tion jiiTords to the artists an opportunity of subinittini; 
 their works to the notice of the public, with greater 
 laciliiy, the rc-peated ccjnteniplaiion of masterpieces 
 and pictures of acknowledged excellence, every year, 
 creates new adinirers and patrons of tins enclumting 
 art. 
 
 Devonshire, it ia added, is the natal soil of paint- 
 ers, and I'lymouih can claim more than an e(jual pro- 
 p(jrtion. Mr. James Northcote, R. A. is a native lA 
 the town; the name of the [)ainler of the Triumphant 
 Kntry into Jerusalem, ranked as it is with those of the 
 greatest masters, must add lustre to the place of his 
 nativity: and Plymouth can justly boast her Ilaydon. 
 1 he exhibition annually attests the existence of superior 
 imtixe talent; and the follow iug gentlemen are professed 
 artists resident in the town. Mr. I*. II. Rogers, nnd 
 Mr. A. B. Johns, landscape painters ; Mr. J. BiUI, 
 history and portrait; M. J. I'onsford, portrait; Mr. N. 
 Condy, landscape and portrait; i\Ir. Dillon, minia- 
 ture; and Mr. II. Worsley, landscape in water co- 
 lours. Mr. Rogers has also lately produced some fine 
 landscape drawiii'js of great power and depth of co- 
 louring. Mr. C. Eastlake, whose early display of 
 pre-eminent genius gave such sanguine promise of 
 mature excellence, has been enriching his mind 
 amonc the ruins of ancient macnificence in Greece, 
 and imbibing inspiration from the works of the great 
 Italian masters, in the metropolis of modtrn art. 
 The exhibition i» also indebted to iMr. S. Prout, 
 whose celebrity as a water colour painter is well 
 known; to Mr. T. Williams, of Exeter; Mr. John 
 King; Mf. Luny, and Mr. Brockeddn, all Devonian
 
 166 TOPOL-RAPHICAL DtSClUPTION OF 
 
 artists. The display of feminine talent we record 
 with peculiar pleasure, and the abihties of Miss Jane 
 Hamlyn, have procured her the honorary reward of 
 the gold Isis medal, presented to her by the Duke of 
 Sussex. Mrs. Shaw's tiower pieces excite general 
 admiration, for elegance of grouping and fidelity of 
 colouring. 
 
 Among tlie amateurs who occasionally contribute 
 their works to the exhibition, we are proud to enume- 
 rate many of high rank, who have devoted their 
 leisure to this elegant art, with great success: the 
 Countess of Morley, Sir W. Elford, Miss Elford, 
 G. Collins, Esq., E. II. Gennys, Esq., and a few of 
 the disiinguished persons, who are not only patrons 
 of painting, but successful cultivators of difierent 
 branches of that pleasing pursuit. — Vide Panorama of 
 Plymouth, tyc. ^c. By Mr. Sainuel Howe. 
 
 The Custom-house was removed from its former 
 mean and inconvenient situation on the 1st of Ja- 
 nuary, 1820. The new Custom-house fronts the parade, 
 or coal-quay, and the warehouses and cellars behind 
 extend into Foynes's-lane. The front is built of granite, 
 with a colonnade of five arches, supported by rusti- 
 cated piers of the same material. The whole struc- 
 ture presents a substantial and liandsome appearance. 
 This building, while its structure does credit to the 
 contractors, is an honour to the town. The long room 
 for public business, is a handsome and spacious apart- 
 ment, and the respective offices are well adapted for 
 the accommodation and comfort of their occupants. 
 
 It seems as if the importance and activity of Ply- 
 mouth would be sustained, if not increased, by the 
 recent determination to remove the packets, that have 
 heretofore sailed from Falmouth, to this port, from 
 whence, in future, they will sail and return from their 
 different destinations. 
 
 A company at Plymouth, in 1822, became the pro- 
 prietors of two steam-packets, to be employed between 
 that port and Portsmouth, on the completion of tl^ 
 line of canal from London through Arundel to London.
 
 DEVONSHIRE. 167 
 
 Since the year 1820 very great improvements have 
 been made in the turnpike roads to and from Fly- 
 mouth. 'J he new line of road cut thence to Tavistock 
 avoids the lii^h hills. 
 
 Plymouth-dock, or Dock-town, as it is often called, 
 lies at the entrance of the Hamoaze, about two miles 
 distant from the town of Plymouth, ami '216 miles 
 from l.<jndon. 
 
 Many improvements have taken place in the Post- 
 oftice since 1814. The London-mail, which also 
 brings letters from parts cast of this town, in En<iland, 
 Scotland, Ireland, and Wales, arrives at about seven 
 in the morniui^hcre, and fifteen minutes later at Dock. 
 The letters are delivered out at or l)efore ciiiht durint; 
 summer, and in winter as soon after that hour as the 
 arrival of the coach will permit. 'I he mail-coach is 
 continued into Cornwall thirty minutes ufier its arrival 
 at Dock. 
 
 The Hoe or ilawe :it Plymouth, may be considered 
 as a healthful arul charming public promenade, stretch- 
 inc from Catwater to Mill-bav, and on the eastern 
 extremity the citiidel is built. 
 
 The access from the town will be greatly improved 
 by the formation of a street leadinij from the Royal 
 Hotel to the Hoe. This will be called Armada-street, 
 to perpetuate the circumstance of the news of the ap- 
 pearance of the Spanish lleet, in 1588, having been 
 brought to Sir Francis Drake while engaged in playing 
 at bowls, near this spot. 
 
 Among the numerous charitable institutions here, 
 " The Household of Faith" is not one of the least 
 remarkable. This owes its origin and support to the 
 Rev. Dr. Hawker. A number of girls are educated in 
 plain work, reading, and writing. The Corpus Christi 
 Society, for the relief of sick and distressed poor, is 
 under the direction of the Rev. Dr. Hawker. The 
 Provident Society was established by some benevolent 
 ladies in 1820, for assisting and encouraging the poor 
 in making some provision in summer, out of their own 
 earnings, against winter.
 
 168 TOPOGRAPHICAL DESCRIPTION Of 
 
 To set these improvements in the general cliaracter 
 of the town and inhabitants of Plymouth, in a still 
 stront!;er light, we shall novv advert to some observa- 
 tions made a few years previous to the late peace, 
 *' by a very intelligent inhabitant, whose habits and 
 long residence in the town rendered him fully com- 
 petent to describe its manners;" and then 
 
 " Look on this picture, and look on that." 
 
 The fluctuations occasioned by liie alternate ope- 
 ration of peace and war, have hitherto prevented the 
 society of this place from acquiring any permanent 
 feature. Under the influence of these opposite 
 causes, it exhibits a surprising contrast. Peace is 
 ahnost annihilation to it. Trade then stagnates ; 
 speculation expires; numerous shops and houses are 
 shut up; the streets are silent; and inactivity and 
 despondency pervade every one. War instantly 
 changes the scene. A new spirit is suddenly diftused, 
 and the greatest ardor and industry prevail. The 
 frequent equipment and return of fleets occasions 
 the expenditure of large sums of money; and mul- 
 titudes of speculators resort hither from all parts of 
 the kingdom to participate in the spoil. Shops of 
 every description open m endless succession ; not a 
 house is vacant; clamour and bustle pervade the 
 streets ; and at length tlie whole place exhibits the 
 appearance of a fair. 
 
 The inhabitants are chiefly composed of artificers in 
 the Dock-yard and Gun-wharf, tradesmen and me» 
 chanics, retail dealers and wholesale dealers, (though 
 in a contracted way), and officers and others belong- 
 ing to the navy. There is scarcely a person of fortune 
 who is not engaged in some kind of business or pro- 
 fession. Literature and the fine arts meet little 
 encouragement. There is but one book club in the 
 town at present; nor is there any other association 
 or institution of a literary or scientific nature ; though 
 several circulating libraries have been opened, to the 
 support of which the fair sex chiefly contribute. The 
 manners and customs must be necessarily unsettled,
 
 DEVONSHIRE. 169 
 
 from tlie frequent iiitlux of the navy and iirniy, and 
 of strangers during war; and a spirit of unsociability 
 prevails trenenilly throughout tlic place, for which two 
 causes may be assigned ; an overstrained competition 
 ill ahnost every kind of business and trade, and a 
 great diversity of opinion in religious matters. TJ>e 
 amusements of the inhabitants arc very few. Their 
 principal gratification seems to arise from an inordi- 
 nate love of dress, in which almost all indulge with 
 equal excess; and a no less inordinate devotion to 
 cards, which occupy whole evenings in succession. 
 There is a very good assembly-room, at which an as- 
 sembly is held every fortnieht during six months of 
 the year, by subscription. It appears, however, to be 
 confined to a few families in the town, and the naval 
 and military oflicers. The theatre is crowded in war, 
 principally by the navy: in peace, it can scarcely sup- 
 port a cuinpany of performers. 
 
 This place does not appear to have given birth to 
 any character of literary celebrity : in fact, it is not 
 adapted to the cultivation of intellect. Wealth is the 
 universal idol, and science scarcely vegetates. 1 here 
 are no manufactories in this town; nor till within a 
 few years, has there been any thing like commercial 
 specidation. Several of the principal inhabitants ar« 
 now, however, engaged in shipping concerns, under 
 the denomination of the Dock Union Company, ai»d 
 employ several vessels in the coasting trade. They 
 have also converted a small quay and landing-place ut 
 Mutton Cove (the ferry to Mount Edgcumbe), into 
 an excellent and commodious quay and bason, both 
 for their vessels, and the general accommodation of 
 boats landing there from the ships in Hamoazc, the 
 Sound, tVc. About ten years since a Bank was esta- 
 blished, which has given great facility to the trade 
 and commerce of the town. These circumstances, 
 added to the increased wealth of the inhabitants from 
 the late war, will considerably alter the spirit and 
 character ui' the place. 
 
 During the war, the merchants and wholesale dealers 
 
 Q
 
 170 TOPOGKAPHICAL DESCRIPTIOK OF 
 
 in London, and other places, supplied persons iiere 
 with goods on credit, to whom, perhaps, they were 
 entire strangers, and who frequently began their career 
 of business without a shilling. Some of these, in a 
 few months after a rapid sale, absconded with the 
 money ; others, fron) ignorance of the business they 
 engaged in, and extravagant living, soon obtained a 
 residence in the sheriff's ward of Exeter. Their places, 
 however, were immediately filled by others of the 
 same description, and goods supplied them in the 
 same way with equal eagerness. The speculations of 
 those who furnished them must, therefore, have been, 
 on the whole, advantageous. Most of the articles, 
 indeed, were manufactured for the occasion, and the 
 prices were exorbitant. The prodigality and credulity 
 of seamen have been long proverbial; but the uaval 
 heroes of the present day seem, in these respects, to 
 have out-done all their predecessors. The inconsistent 
 and thoughtless profusion of this singular class of ujen, 
 their frolics, their credulity, and the various imposi- 
 tions practised on them, would altogether form a de- 
 tail the most curious and incredible. Extravagance, 
 however, was not confined to them. The artificers in 
 the Dock-yard, who, during war, double, and fre- 
 quently treble, their wages, and, indeed, many of the 
 inhabitants, who derived any benefit from this source 
 of calamity to the world, evinced a similar disposition. 
 Prodigality seemed to be the order of the day. This 
 superfiuity, however, was principally lavished in per- 
 sonal decoration, and luxurious living. Distinctions 
 in dress and modes of living became at length almost 
 extinct. 
 
 Amidst the general dissipation and rage for worldly 
 aggrandisement, a religious disposition was every 
 where prevalent. Churches, chapels, and meetings, 
 were crowded with auditors. The latter not only on 
 Sundays, but many evenings in the week. Besides 
 public places of worship, parties of the pious assembled 
 at each other's houses, and embryo preachers here 
 first practised the rudhnents of their future calling !
 
 UIVONSUIKF. 171 
 
 1 lic:c spjMtual pastors were principally uneducated 
 niecliHiiics and artificers in tl;e Dock-vard and town. 
 Never, periiaps, did luoralisi survey a more incon- 
 gruous specUicle llian tMs place alVorded. The most 
 open and uudisguiseil pro^anene^s, and the n)ost rigid 
 saiictiiy, seemed equally predominant. Un one hand 
 were heard the revels of debauchery and drunkenness ; 
 and on the other, the praises and prayers ot" devotional 
 contiretiations ! The sanctuaries of religion were sur- 
 rounded hy the temples of prolligacy. i^rostitulion 
 walked the streets shameless and unabashed : levity 
 and extravaijiince were universally ditVused. Extortion 
 prevaileil, as it by mutual concurrence; most seeming 
 desirous rather to participate in its .advantages, than 
 to oppose its influence. 
 
 A disinterested observer would have thought that 
 the whole desideratum of life was confined to the 
 acquisition of wealth, licentious gratifications, and 
 ostentatious dress ; and that its duties were comprised 
 i/i a regular attendance on places of worship, and the 
 belief of certain undefinable notions, and extravagant 
 conceits, which neither improve the understanding, 
 correct the manners, <jr amend the heart. All the 
 refinements of intellect, all the treasures of mental 
 wealth, were despised. That such a general acquies- 
 cence in dissipation and venality should exist under 
 the apparent auspices of religion, is a circumstance 
 peculiar, perhaps, to modern times. 
 
 According to the returns of 1821, the number of in- 
 habitants in FMymouth and its suburbs was 61,212: 
 the houses, 6248. 
 
 It was in the reign of VVilliam III. first designed to 
 make a wet and dry dock here; there have been added 
 several others, with every convenience for building 
 and repairing ships, hewn out of a mine of slate, and 
 lined with Portland stone. After the construction of 
 the ducks, storehouses were built for the arms, rigging, 
 sails, (S:e. with houses for the different otHcers and 
 artificers of every description to live in. Also exten- 
 sive barracks, and a military hospital ; all which, with 
 Q 2
 
 172 lopoGRArnicAL description of 
 
 the great number of houses occupied by tradesmen 
 and private individuals, liave rendered Dock nearly as 
 large as Plymouth itself; to which indeed it appears 
 to belong, being completely connected by the village 
 of Stonehouse, which is a very populous and improving 
 place, and extending from Plymouth towards Dock, 
 The marine barracks, a fine pile of buildings, built of 
 limestone or marble, cm the east side of Stonehouse, 
 are very extensive. 
 
 Stonehouse derives its name from Joel de Stonc- 
 liouse, lord of this domain in the reign of Henry III. 
 It anciently received the name of East Stonehouse, 
 to distinguish it from West Stonehouse, which, being 
 burnt by the French, has long ceased to bear that 
 name. This was situated on the opposite shore of 
 the harbour, at Cremill. Stonehouse is now situated 
 about one mile west of Plymouth, and nearly mid- 
 way between that town and Dock, although tl»e 
 buildings in Union-street nearly approach those nt 
 Plymouth. The great turnpike, to the ferry at New- 
 passage, which is continued from Torpoint, through. 
 Cornwall, passes through Stonehouse, from which 
 circumstance, and the erection of the hospitals and 
 barracks, it has risen, within a few years, from a 
 small village to a handsome town. The present 
 number of inhabitants is computed at six thousand. 
 
 The police of Stonehouse is under the direction of 
 Thomas Clinton Shields, Esq. a county magistrate, 
 resident in the town ; but all complaints and other 
 business are brought before the beiich of magistrates, 
 at their weekly sittings at the Town-hall i7i Dock. 
 'I'he usual number of constables are appointed, but 
 there are no watchmen, nor are the streets lighted at 
 any period of the year. With the exceptio^i of the 
 older parts of the town, the buildings are neat and 
 handsome, and the streets straight and commodious ; 
 particularly those of Durnford-street, Emma-place, 
 Edgcumbe-street, and Union-street. These are almost 
 entirely occupied by genteel families, chiefly those of 
 naval and militay officers, and other persons hold-
 
 DEVoxsninE. 173 
 
 jiig situatiuiut under t;ovenimeiJt ; many of" whom 
 have been induced to hecotne j)n)|)i ietors (»t' houses, 
 on the very lihend terras on whicli the lonl of the 
 ninnor urants leases, which are renewable for ever, at 
 a small fixed fine, subject to the payment ot'an an- 
 nual conventionary rent. Tfie addition of Union- 
 street, which lias taken place within the last five 
 years, is an impnjvenient of the greatest importance, 
 as the road throui;h Fore-street is narrow and incon- 
 venient, and the houses for the most part irregularly 
 built ; while the new road atlords a spacious thoroui;h- 
 farc, ami presents to j-traniiers, on their entrance, a 
 succession of" nt^t and uniform Iniildings. 
 
 The whole parish of Iv.ist btonehouse is the property 
 of the I'liirl of Mount Edj^cundie, and tlie houses are 
 chiefly leased out on the plan before descrd)eil. The 
 inhabitants are supplied with water by the Dock 
 water-works, tiom whence it is brouijlit by means of 
 pipes carried across the creek ; the rent of which is 
 the same as at Dock. The oidy kinds of conimercc 
 carried on here, are the coal and timber tnides. 'Ihe 
 vessels thus employed, discharge their cargoes at the 
 quays in Stonehouse-pool, The principal <|uay is 
 spacious and convenient, and the dues for landing 
 iioods are collected bv a renter. The watermen, who 
 })ly for hire, resort to this quay, and like those at 
 Plymouth, are under no regulation as to their fares. 
 Near this is a shipwright's yard, where vessels can be 
 drawn up and repaired. 
 
 Stonehouse-bridge, the principal avenue between 
 Plymouth and Dock, was erected at the joint ex pence 
 of the Earl of Mount Edgcumbe and Sir John St. 
 Aubyn, Hart. It consists of one handsome arch, built 
 of stono. Foot passengers, horsemen, and carriages, 
 pay a toll at this bridge; iIjc rent of which is esti- 
 mated at about 500/. per annum. The number of 
 houses in Dock must be nearly '2500, all built by the 
 inhabitants upon leases for ninety-nine years, granted 
 by the lord of the manor, determinable by the death 
 of three lives, nominated bv the lessee, and subject to 
 Q^3
 
 it4i TOPOGRAPHICAL DESCRIPTION OF 
 
 a small annual quit-rent of a few shillings, with a heriot, 
 double tlie quit-rent, on the death of each life. The 
 present annual income is considered as amounting to 
 about 6000/. but whenever the whole of the lands and 
 houses of the manor, not on perpetual renewal, re- 
 verts to the proprietor, little doubt can be entertained, 
 but that the rental will increase to upwards of 80,000/. 
 per annum. 
 
 The town of Dock and Dock-yard are defended by 
 strong fortifications. On the norlh-east and south 
 sides the town is bounded by a wall about twelve feet 
 high, called the King's interior boundary wall; the 
 western side is skirted by the Dock-Yard and Gun- 
 Wharf. Without the wall is a line or breast-work, 
 with Q ditch, from twelve to eighteen and twenty feet 
 deep, excavated from the solid slate and lime-stone 
 rock. In the lines are three barrier gates; the North 
 Barrier, which leads to the new passage across the 
 Tamar ; the Stoke Barrier, leading towards Tavistock ; 
 and the Stonehcjuse Barrier, conducting towards Stone- 
 house, Plymouth, &:c. Of the other fortifications, the 
 principal are a battery on Mount Wise (where the 
 ancient seat of the Wises, formerly lords of the manor, 
 stood); another at Obelisk Hill, near Mount Edg- 
 cumbe; and the Redoubt and Block House on Mount 
 Pleasant, which commands the capitol of the lines. 
 
 The Dock-yard, even in its present unfinished state, 
 is acknowledged to be one of the finest in the world. 
 When it was first used ns a naval arsenal is uncertain ; 
 but as the Bason and its Dock are the most ancient, 
 though not made till the reign of William the Third, 
 it seems evident that this was a place of little conse- 
 quence previous to that period. The Dock-yard is 
 separated from the town by a wall of slate and lime- 
 stone, in some places thirty feet high, extending from 
 North Corner on the north to Mutton Coie on the 
 south. The area within these bounds is seventv-oue 
 acres and thirtysix poles, exclusive of the projecting 
 parts of the Jetties. 
 
 The entrance to the Dock-yard from the land side
 
 DEVONSHIUE. 175 
 
 '5 irotu Fore-street, by a large gale tor carriages, &c. 
 un<l :i small one for fuol-pas5en^crs. Tliej^e tire 
 ptiardc-il with the utmost vigilance by ihrto uiuicr- 
 f)<»rler«, and two military ceiitinels, who sutFer no 
 person to enter, who is not wtll known or in uniform, 
 vMtliout nn order in writing from the commissioners. 
 luiMieiiiately within the pales is the Mabter-poittr's 
 House, near which is a small neat chapel, conbistint; 
 of two nislcs, and a tower; the tower and one aisle 
 were erected, as appears by an inscription over the 
 -wuth door, in the year 1700; the other aisle was 
 • reeled by a late incumbent, on condition that he 
 should receive the emoluments arising; from letting the 
 pews; which he continued to <lo till the vear 171^7, 
 when government returned the sum he had expended 
 in the builditJi;. and appropriated the ch;ipel exilu- 
 Hvely to the olhcers and artificers of the navy and 
 I )ock-yard. In front of the chapel is the Military 
 (Juard OtVice, and over it the Navy Pay-Ofuce. 
 
 A new rh ipel was opened in the Dock-yard in No- 
 vember 1H17, whirh mav unqui vti(Mial»lv le reckoned 
 among the tiiiest specimens of moilerii church architec- 
 ture in the united kingdoms. This chapel has been re- 
 built by government, on a larger and more liberal scale 
 than before, lor the better accommodation of the clerks 
 and arlificersof theDock-yard, theadMiiiaI,and otbcers 
 of the navy, the general ollict rsand corps of royal ma- 
 rine'", and the (jtiicers, men, and boys, of the ordinary. 
 
 Weakley's Hotel has powerful recommendations; 
 the s:une may be said of Goude's King's Arms, Town- 
 shend's London Inn, (S:c. 
 
 The market-place is of recent erection, and for 
 extent and accommodation is fully ecjual to any in the 
 west of England ; and the market, though not chartered, 
 is held three times a-week. 
 
 A flat paved road, skirted with elms, leads from tiie 
 gates to the otTicers' dwelling-houses, which are thirteen 
 m number, built of brick, three stories high, with 
 kitchens beneath, and ])leasant gardens behind; in 
 trout is a double row <j|" limc-tivcs. From hence to
 
 176 TOPOGRAPHICAL DESCRIPTION OF 
 
 the lower part of the yard, which has been levelled 
 from the solid rock, is a descent by a nuuiber of steps 
 which lead to two handsome buildings, erected of late 
 years as offices: in the northernmost is the joiner's 
 shop, having a cupola rising from the centre. Directly 
 opposite these buildings is the Bason and Dock that 
 were made in the reign of King William. The Bason 
 is a large excavation, into which the water flows 
 through an opening about seventy feet wide; here all 
 the boats belonging to the yard are kept, as well as 
 the launches employed in moving ships. Witljin the 
 Bason is the Dock, which is sufficiently capacious for 
 a seventy-four gun ship ; its length is 197 feet three 
 inches; its width sixty-five feet ten Inches; and its 
 depth twenty-three feet one inch. The Bason is 
 bounded on each side by jetty-heads, which are plat- 
 forms projecting over the sea, supported by wooden 
 pillars driven full of nails, to prevent the worms from 
 perforating them. A^essels of all sizes lie alongside 
 these jetties, without grounding, and here all ships are 
 brought to be fitted out. 
 
 Adjoining the South Jetty is the rigging-house, a 
 handsome building, 480 feet h)ng, and three stories 
 high, forming one side of a quadrangle. This fabric is 
 of limestone, with tiie coins and cornices of Portland 
 stone. Within it, the rigging for the ships of war is 
 kept in such a state of forwardness, as to be fit for 
 use at a very short notice. Over the rigging-house is 
 the sail-loft, where all the sails are cutout and made. 
 The remaining three sides of the quadrangle are store- 
 houses, in which the various articles necessary to 
 equip the fleets are kept. 
 
 Southward from these buildings is a slip for hauling 
 up and cleaning the bottoms of small vessels, such as 
 sloops of war, cutters, &c. Beyond this is the Cam- 
 ber, a long canal, about seventy feet wide, terminating 
 at the upper end in a br-^on, where boats lay; on the 
 north side of which is the boat-house, where boats are 
 built and repaired, and afterwards kept till wanted. 
 Here, previous to the year 1768, was the bounds of
 
 DEVONSHIUE. 177 
 
 the yard ; all hence to llie southward is still called the 
 '* New Oroiind." 
 
 On tJK.' ijidcs of the Cnmher several cranes have 
 lately been crecte<l, constructed on a new plan, and 
 *>t'such i;reat pov\tr, that two of ihenj worked byei^ht 
 men will raise fifteen tons. The otliers, of less power, 
 will raise ten tons each. By a swinging bridge a 
 tl)<jroui;hfare is made across the canal. Near the 
 %vnter is iIk.* anchoragi>\vhQrf, where anchors are made 
 913 rwt. 
 
 The l)lacki'mith*>i sliop, which is !>ituatcd south from 
 the canal, is a spacious building, about 210 feet square, 
 and containing, forty-eight forges. The larpst anchors 
 made here weigh five tons, and are worth uowards of 
 630/. each; they are made of iron bars, tor«;ed to- 
 j^ether, aiirl are moved in and out of the fire by the 
 aid of cranes. Those who are nnaccustonied to scenes 
 of this kind, fetl strong sensations of horror on fust 
 onteiing; the cHmking of the chains used to blow the 
 bt Hows, the dingy countenance of the workmen, the 
 immense fires, and al>ove oil, the yellow glare thrown 
 on every thing by the (lames shining through th.e di^ 
 mal Columns of smoke that continually fill the build- 
 ing, form together a most terrific picture. Tlie an- 
 ch(»r-wharf fronts the blacksmith's shop. Some hun- 
 dreds of anchors for ships of war, are generally stored 
 here, all of tl)em painie<i, and placed upright, to pre- 
 vent rusting. 
 
 Near this wlwarf are throe sTips, on which large shij s 
 are built ; adjoining the slips is a boiling-house, in 
 which the planks that are to receive a j>articuhir curve, 
 are boiled lu water tor a considerable time, and being 
 afterwards applied hot to tiieir placee, arc immediately 
 fastened ; wiihcjut this process, it would be impossible 
 to bring timber (jf sued great magnitude as is wanted 
 to the requisite si ape. 
 
 The mast-house is situated to tlie northof the slips , 
 in it the diiVerent masts and yards are made: the main 
 mast oF a first rate measures 119 feet eight inches in 
 • HL'tli, and i'j ten feet in circumference: they are
 
 178 TOPOGRAPHICAL DESCRIPTION OF 
 
 composed of n^any pieces of balk, formed to fit into 
 each other, then rounded and pressed together with 
 iron hoops, driven on red-hot. 
 
 Near the mast-house is the pond, a large piece of 
 water, inclosed from the sea by a very strong wall, of 
 at least ten feet in thickness, and about 380 feet long; 
 the top of which is laid flat with large Hags of coarse 
 granite. The water flows in through two openings of 
 about forty feet wide, over which are light wooden 
 bridges. An immense number of masts, yards, &c. 
 are always kept in this pond, to prevent their cracking 
 from exposure to the sun. 
 
 There is a small mount near the south end of the 
 mast-house, generally called Bunker's-hill, on the 
 summit of which is a watch-house, and a battery of 
 five cannon, nine-pounders, four of iron, and one a 
 beautiful brass piece, made at Paris. The prospect 
 from this place is very extensive and interesting, in- 
 cluding the Sound, St. Nicholas' Island, Mount Edg- 
 cumbe, the Dock-yard, Hamoaze, and the Cornish 
 side of the Tamar, as high as Saltash. Under the hill 
 is a small powder magazine; and near it a slip for 
 building cutters and small vessels on. 
 
 The rope-houses, which are situated more in the 
 interior of the yard, are two buildings of limestone, 
 running parallel to each other, two stories high, with 
 cellars beneath, and l',?00 feet long ; in the upper 
 story twine is made, and the yarns prepared for the 
 cables, which are twisted together below. The largest 
 cables that are made for shipping are twenty-five 
 inches in circumference, and one hundred fathoms 
 long; they weigh near 120 cwt. and are worth up- 
 wards of 400/. In a cable of this size there are 3240 
 yarns. 
 
 Behind the rope-houses are the dwellings of the 
 master rope-makers; and parallel with them, store- 
 houses for hemp, &c. The mould or model-loft, 
 where the different parts of ships to be built are laid 
 down, according to plans sent from the Navy Board, 
 is in front of the store-house, and is the lastbuilding
 
 DF.VONSniKE. 179 
 
 <M I'uj.jii... . c III that part of tlie vard, south of the 
 Bastiii, to which «e i.ow return. 
 
 Havinjr yiassed the master attendant's office, situ- 
 ated on the south cntr;'.uce to the bason, the stranger 
 will perceive the astonishing etVorts of human skill, in 
 tiie cunstruciiun of the new sea-uail, which is carried 
 into the sea far he)ond low-water mark; the founda- 
 tion having been receiitly laid, at a considerable depth 
 below tie >urface, by means of the diving-bell. 'J he 
 particulars of this operation are detailed by iMr. Smith, 
 fwho was appointed by the Honourable the Conunis- 
 siontTs of tlie Navy to superintend the work,) in his 
 observations on diving; machines, from which the fol- 
 lowint: account has been extracted. 
 
 '• It beini; considered indispensable by the Lords of 
 the Admiralty, that a wall should be built in IMy- 
 mouth U<jck-yard, on the marjiin of the liarb lur. Air. 
 Ilennie was applied to, and the necessary plans fur- 
 nished. The work was commence<l by clearing away 
 the old foundation and piles, which hud been placed 
 there durint; several former attenipts to construct a 
 similar erection. In one part was found a number of 
 ni(jorstone piles, from ten to fifteen feet in lenL;th, 
 besides limber of rarious descriptions ; a boat was 
 likewise found, six feet below ijic surfice of the soil. 
 Ilaviiii: cleared away as much of the materials as ap- 
 peared necessary, tiie next undertakini; was to drive 
 piles mto the ground, which was elVtcted by the work- 
 men standing on a 5>ii\i;e, elevated a little above the 
 surface of the sea at hisi,h water. 
 
 '* There are four rows of principal piles, from fifty 
 to sixty feet in length, and one row of sheeting piles in 
 front of them. Eacli pile furnished with a wrought 
 iron shoe, was driven to the rock, \^ith an inclination 
 towards the land of four inches in a foot, by means of 
 an iron block, weighing 14 cwt. This block was 
 raised, by machinery, to the height of thirty feet, and 
 then let fall directly on the head of each pde in suc- 
 cession. After being all thus driven down, they were
 
 180 TOPOGRAPHICAL DESCRIPTION OF 
 
 cut off, under water, by the assistance of the diving- 
 bell. 
 
 " The soil was excavated from among the piles, 
 which were cut down as the excavation proceeded, 
 until a firm stratum of sand presented itself. The 
 four rows of piles were levelled in a longitudinal dh- 
 rection, and the transverse, cut with an inclination of 
 four inches in a foot; the radiation required for the 
 wall ; its front being the segment of a circle, whose 
 radius is 126 feet. After this, the space between the 
 piles were filled with limestone and gravel, rammed 
 down until it became perfectly firm and solid. Sills 
 of not less than a foot square, and from twenty-five to 
 thirty feet long, were then secured tp each row of 
 piles, by treenails three feet in length. The sheeting 
 piles were secured by long nails to tl)e port sill, and 
 the spaces between the sills filled with blocks of lime- 
 stone nicely fitted. The whole was then covered with 
 plank six inches thick, and ten feet long, except 
 where the counter parts are placed; there the planks 
 are fifteen feet in length, and are secured to the sills 
 by long nails. 
 
 " This work commenced on the 5th of October, 
 1816,— on the 1st of January, 1819, tl)e first stone of 
 the wall was laid; and by the 1st of January, 1820, 
 no fewer than thirty-nine thousand cubic feet of stone 
 were laid on the wall by the assistance of the diving- 
 bell. The stones, which are of large dimensions, 
 many of them exceeding four tons, are of a beautiful 
 granite from the forest of Dartmoor." 
 
 This wall is to be continued in the same manner, 
 and by a similar process, as far as the entrance of 
 the graving slip, which is the next object of notice. 
 This slip is constructed in all respects like the docks, 
 except that it has no gates, and is employed for the 
 purpose of effecting repairs on the bottoms of vessels, 
 which can be completed in one tide. 
 
 The ercclionswhich are bo frequently heard of under 
 the name of Jetties, are platforms projecting froiu
 
 DEVONJHir.K. 181 
 
 the liriibour wall, to a greater or less distance into the 
 water; and supported upon piles driven deep into 
 the mud, and preserved in an uprii;ht position by 
 joists and braces. By such expedients the largest 
 ships are brought within floating distance of tlie yard, 
 and are enabled fo receive or discharge their ballast 
 and stores, without the interposition of boats or 
 rafts. The whole line from North-corner to the grav- 
 ing-blip is furnished from these jetties. 
 
 The diversity of employments, ingenuity and ma- 
 nual activity exhibited in the various departments of 
 a dock-yard, present a very interesting spectacle to 
 thoi.e not accustomed to appreciate the ellects of hu- 
 man industry on a grand scale. Perhaps no sight is 
 belter calculated to enable a comprehensive mind to 
 f«)rm a proper estimate of the powers of continued 
 labour, than the gradual growth of a few rude pieces 
 of limber into the majestic wonderful structure that 
 encounters the winds and waves, and forms ihc most 
 complete security atraiust invasion that Britain can 
 possess. 
 
 In times of peace, a \ery considerable {)art of the 
 English navy nre laid up in ordinary in Hamoazc, and 
 constitute by their number and disposition, a very 
 interesting spectacle. Ships laid up in urdinan/y are 
 stripped of all their rigging, which with the stores, 
 guns, 6cc. is taken asliore: in fact, every thing is 
 taken out of them, and the men and olliccrs are all 
 paid olT, except the boatswain, gunner, carpenter 
 and cook, (who always remain to take care of the 
 ship) and six ordinary seamen. The ships are moored 
 by large chains of iron sixty fathoms long, consisting of 
 riO links, and having at each end a large anchor. 
 The chains are stretched across the harbour, and the 
 anchors sunk in the mud. In the middle of each 
 chain is a large iron ring and a swivel, to which are 
 attached two thick cables, called bridles, sufficiently 
 long to be taken on board the ship to be moored. 
 These bridles, when not in use, are constantly sunk, 
 a small cable beinu fastened to them, which is brought 
 R
 
 182 TOPOCKAPIIICAL DESCRIPTION OF 
 
 up to a buoy on the surface of the water, and there 
 made fast. When wanted, the ends are easily hauled 
 up by means of the buoy rope, and are then passed 
 one through each of the ship's hawse holes, and fastened 
 on board. By the bridles being fastened to the same 
 swivel, the ships swing easily vvith the tide, which runs 
 amazingly strong, especially the ebb, with the wind at 
 north : at these times no boat can make head against 
 it. In Plamoaze are ninety-two of these moorings. 
 
 Among the objects highly worthy of notice in the 
 Sound, the diving-bell ought not to be passed over. 
 Since the construction of the sea-wall here, it has been 
 used in removing submarine rocks, and improving the 
 anchorage in different parts of the Sound, where its 
 singular and interesting operations may be viewed. 
 The present machine, winch has been greatly im- 
 proved by the late Mr. Rennie, is both plain and 
 simple in its application and construction. We can- 
 not supply a better description than that furnished by 
 Mr. Smith, the resident engineer at this port. 
 
 " *The bell is made of cast-iron, and weiglis four 
 tons, two hundred; it is six feet long, four broad, and 
 live high ; and contains one hundred and twenty cubic 
 feet. To admit light, it lias twelve convex lenses in- 
 serted in its top, each of which is eight inches in dia- 
 meter; and when sunk in clear water, the light witliin 
 is sufncient to enable the diver to read the smallest 
 print, or even to perform the neatest needle- work. — 
 In the centre of the tops is a hole for tlie admission 
 of air; to this is attached a leather hose, long enough 
 to reach any depth; the other end of it is attached to 
 a forcing air-pump, which is worked by four men, 
 during the time the bell remains under water; by this 
 means, the persons in the bell arc supplied with a 
 sufficient quantity of air, to make respiration pleasant. 
 Within the bell, directly over the pole which admits 
 the air, is screwed a piece of stout leather, so that the 
 
 * " Observations on Diving Machines;" a work 
 replete with useful and interesting information.
 
 f DEVONSUrilE. 103 
 
 aif enters odIv through llie spaces between the screws. 
 This leather jjreveiits the admitted air from returning 
 through tl)e hose ; and in case the liose should hurst, 
 the water cannot enter the hell through the air-hole; 
 the divers are therel'ore secured against an3' accident 
 w iiich might otherwise proceed from this cause. The 
 bell contains a sufiicient quantity of air to support the 
 persons within it, without the assistance of the air- 
 pump, till they can be raised from any depth. 
 
 " When the bell is overcharged with air, it escapes 
 under its edge, and from its expansive nature, agitates 
 the water as it ascends. This is generally, but er- 
 roneoubly, considered the escaping of foul air; but 
 the respired air being lightest, ascends to the top of 
 the bell. In consc(|uence of the continual current of 
 air passing through the bell from top to bottom, no 
 unpleasant sensation can be experienced, from what 
 is generally imagined to be I'oul air. 
 
 " The bell is furnished with a moveable seat at each 
 end, and a narrow botird across the lower part to rest 
 the feet on ; there are also hooks, and a small shelf 
 for the wo.-kmen's tools; and in the top, are two eye- 
 bolts, to secure such heavy weights as may be neces- 
 sary to raise with the bell. 
 
 " There is nothing either ditiicult or hazardous in 
 tlie use of this machine, provided care be taken that 
 the tackles, »!^c. are of sufncient size and quality to 
 bupport its weight; and that an attentive man is 
 stationed to receive the siiinals, and to give directions 
 to the men employed on the stage, or in the vessel, 
 from which the bell is suspended. When it is found 
 necessary to alter the position of the bell, the divers 
 strike it with a hammer. There are eight signals used 
 for the following purposes. 
 
 " One stroke to indicate that there is not a sufiicient 
 quantity of air in the bell, and that it is necessary to 
 work the air-pump faster. 
 
 "Two strokes to annul a former signal; or to leave 
 off" doing any thing tdl another signal is given. 
 
 " Three strokes to raise the bell. 
 11 2
 
 184 TOPOGRAPHICAL DESCRIPTION OF 
 
 " Four to lower it. 
 
 " Five to move it to the right. 
 
 " Six to the left. 
 
 " Seven, backwards. 
 
 " Eight, forwards. 
 
 " Other methods are resorted to, such as tlie use of 
 small buoys, ike. for making more complicated signals 
 on subjects of less frequent occurrence. 
 
 " It should be observed, that in executing works 
 under water with the diving-bell, the water ought to 
 be transparent ; so much so, at least, that objects 
 lying two or three feet below the bell, may be clearly 
 seen before the machine touches them in its descent. 
 An artificial light, it is obvious, can be of no use in 
 viewing objects through foul water. In cases where a 
 candle can be applied with advantage, the object 
 must be raised within the cavity of the bell. It is 
 tlierefore essential to the executing of works, viewing 
 ground, ike. that the water be transparent; when this 
 is the case, a cloud passing over the sun is perceptible 
 in deep water. 
 
 " The hours, in which the workmen are employed 
 under water are, in the summer, from seven in the 
 morning till twelve at noon, and from one to six in 
 the evening. In the winter, tliey work as long as they 
 can see, with the exception of an hour allowed for 
 taking refreshment." 
 
 Mr. Smith, in his repeated descents, has frequently 
 made observations on the effect produced on the 
 thermometer. He states, that " on the 15th of Sep- 
 tember, 1819, the thermometer stood at 65°, in de- 
 scending it rose to 70 ; during four hours stay under 
 water, it stood at 69, and in ascending it varied to 68. 
 On the 17th of the same month, it stood in -the open 
 air at 54; in descending it rose to 67; during five 
 hours stay it stood at 66 ; and in ascending it varied 
 to 67. On the 21st, in the open air, it stood at 55; 
 in descending it rose to 69; and during five hours and 
 a half stay, under water, it stood at 68. 
 
 " On taking down one of the best kind of barometers,
 
 DLVOXSUIRE. Ibo 
 
 tlie mercury was observed to rise very rapidly a5 soon 
 as the bell closed wiiii tfio water, aud before it was 
 wholly immtrsed, the mercury was pressed firmly 
 against the top of the tube. It beini; then high water 
 and spring tides, the bell descended to the depth of 
 eight fathoms; and during the rive liours the men con- 
 tinued at their wuric, tiie barometer underwent no 
 visible alteration; wlien the bell was raised near the 
 surface, the mercury began to subside; and when ex- 
 posed to the open air, it resumed the same position 
 as it occupied before it was placed in the bell." 
 
 These observations were made when three persons 
 were in the bell. 
 
 Among other submarine operations in which this 
 machine has been employed, tliat of surveying the 
 bottom, for various purposes, has been frequently per- 
 ftjrmed with the most successful and satisfactory re- 
 snits. 
 
 On the North Jetty is a landing-place, called the 
 North-stairs, near which is n house, where pitch is 
 kept continually boiling fur the use of the caulkers, to 
 be applied tu the bottoms and seams of ships. 
 
 The (louble-d»Jck, which i-. the fust i>{ three very 
 near each other, for line of battle ships, is so deno- 
 minated from its being sulliciently large to contain 
 two ships at the same time, one a-liead of the other ; 
 l)ut so divided by gates, that though water be Jet 
 into the outer division, the inner continues perfectly 
 dry. 
 
 The (lock-gates, by which the water is kept out of 
 the (locks, form, wlien closed, the segment of a circle, 
 with its convex side towards the sea. They are made 
 of timber, very strongly put together, and are hung on 
 each side of the mouth of the dock. As soon as a 
 ship is taken into dock, which is always at high water, 
 the gates are slmt aiid locked : the water within the 
 dock then runs out through vluices made for the pur- 
 pose, till the ebb tide has ceased ; the sluices are then 
 shut, and the water whicii may still remai[» is thrown 
 out by engines on tiie plan of pumps, worked by the
 
 186 TOPOGRAPHICAL DESCRIPTION OF 
 
 assistance of horses. The pressnre of the sea against 
 the gates is immense, consequently, from their form, 
 they are always kept tight together. When a ship is 
 to be taken out of dock, the sluices are opened, and 
 the water flows in till its lieight is equal, both within 
 and without; the gates are then opened with ease, 
 though scarcely any force could otherwise accomplish 
 it. The ships are hove in and out by means of hawsers 
 and capstans, and always ground in the dock on 
 wooden blocks placed for that purpose. 
 
 The second dock, called the Union, or North Dock, 
 is 239 feet four inches long, eighty-six feet seven inches 
 wide, and twenty-six feet ten inches deep. This was 
 made in the year 1762 ; and is faced with Portland 
 stone, having blocks of granite to support the shores. 
 
 The New'Union, or North New Dock, 259 feet 
 nine inches long, eighty-five feet three inches wide, 
 and twenty-seven feet eight inches deep, was made iu 
 the year 1789, and is on the same plan with the above; 
 botli these docks, and all the new part of the yard, 
 were built by the late able architect Mr. Barlby. 
 
 The Dock-yard has been considerably extended to 
 the south within the last ten years, where an entire 
 new building slip and diflferent erections have been 
 added. 
 
 Not far from the head of the new dock is a burning 
 place for old copper, that has been removed from 
 ships' bottoms at the time of repairing them. Farther 
 northw\ird are the plumbers', braziers', and armourers' 
 shops; and the bricklayers' and stonecutters' yards. 
 Behind all this side of the yard, the rock, having never 
 been levelled, is very high and irregular: on it are a 
 few sheds and storehouses. 
 
 The levelling so large a piece of ground as the Dock- 
 yard occupHes, must have been attended with prodi- 
 gious labour, particularly the gun-wharf, which is 
 liewn out of some schistose rocks to the depth of thirty 
 feet or more. The Gun-wharf is separated from the 
 Dock-yard by North Corner-street; it was begun about 
 the year 1718, and completed about 1725. The build-
 
 DEVONSHIllE. 187 
 
 ings are m general good, but very heavy, and in the 
 Dutch style ; they were projected by Sir John Van- 
 brugh, who was then attached to the ordnance depart- 
 ment. The quantity ut ground within the walls is 
 four acres and three quarters, and is lield on ti)e same 
 terms as the Dock-yard, at an annual rent. Here are 
 two principal storehouses, of three stories high, for 
 muskets, pistols, grape-shot, and other small stores, a 
 number ot' sheds tor gun-carriages, <S:c. and a powder 
 magazine, with a cooperage detached ; but which, since 
 the erection of the magazines at Keyham Point, have 
 been used for storehouses. 
 
 In times of peace, a very considerable part of the 
 British navy are laid up in ordinary in Ilamoazc, and 
 constitute, by their number and disposition, a very 
 interesting spectacle. This bay is about four miles in 
 length, and, in t^eneral, about half a mile broad, witli 
 a bottom of mud ; its greatest depth at high water is 
 between eighteen and twenty fathoms. Below the 
 Creek, wliich runs tip to Weston-Mills, is the Powder 
 Magazine, consisting of several limestone buildings, 
 erected with every precaution to prevent accidents by 
 fire or lightning. 
 
 Proceeding along the avenue u quarter of a mile, 
 conducts to an open space between the rope-houses 
 and the stables, and gardens belonging to the officers 
 of the establishment. By the orders of the present 
 commissioner, this spot, which was originally a muddy 
 stagnant pool, has been metamorphosed into a neat 
 parterre. By following the same route a little farther, 
 between the stables and the gardens, we reach the 
 llagged footpath before described. 
 
 llie gram! tour has now been made, and if the 
 track were traced, the geometrician would find that 
 the run of the harbour is nearly the periphery of a 
 semi-ellipsis; while the long avenue would become its 
 conjugate diameter. If we still follow this footpath, 
 it will conduct us to the angle of the paved road, at 
 which the route commenced, and from thence down 
 the declivity of the hill. Descending in this direction,
 
 188 TOPOGRAPHICAL DEfeCKIPTION OF 
 
 we have the officers' houses above, on the left; and on 
 the right, beneath, the mast-houses ah'e?.dy described. 
 To the south, the road conducts to the Mould-loft, 
 which is a department of great interest and curiosity, 
 as it is here that " the mighty fabric first receives its 
 form." The several parts necessary in the construction 
 of a ship, are here first delineated in chalk, and being 
 subsequently formed in thin deal, they are distributed 
 as models to the respective mechanics. From this 
 spot we perceive beneath, the bason in which the 
 canal terminates at the distance of 4^0 yards from its 
 mouth. 
 
 On the north side of this bason, which is separated 
 from the inner mast-pond by a broad causeway, are 
 the boat-houses, where the boats of the fleet are pre- 
 pared and kept ready for service. In front, is a paved 
 way similar to that attached to the mast-houses, 
 whereon the boats are drawn up out of the bason. 
 This may be considered as a position central in the 
 area of the grand tour, and could not have been vi- 
 sited at first, without losing sight of several interesting 
 objects. 
 
 By ascending a flight of steps we shall gain the level 
 in front of I he ofiicers' daelling-houscs, which is a 
 handsome row of buildings, adorned with naval tro- 
 phies, and other architectural decorations. The re- 
 sidence of the commissioner is in the centre, and the 
 other houses are occupied by several principal officers 
 of the establishment. The offices of the commissioner 
 and the clerk of the cheque, project at right angles, at 
 each extremity, and form wings to the main range of 
 the buildings. A pavement and gravel-walk shaded 
 by an avenue of lime trees, atlord a delightful pro- 
 menade in front; and the internal conveniences of 
 these edifices is increased by the appendages of gar- 
 dens, stables, and other commodious offices. 
 
 Many important and judicious improvements, be- 
 sides those already noticed, have been very recently 
 introduced into this yard. A plan was invented by 
 Sir Robert Seppings, during the period in which i)e
 
 DEVONSHIRE. 189 
 
 occupied llie situation of builder's assistant, in this 
 arsenal, for repairing the keels of vessels with great, 
 facility. Previously to his invention, n number of 
 men were employed to mite a line-of-battle ship, by 
 means of wooden wedges, driven by large sledge ham- 
 mers. Instead of timber, Sir Robert has used iron 
 wed<;es, and by these means, and the peculiar con- 
 struction of the docks, the object is attained by the 
 assistance of thirty men, which could not be effected, 
 accordinij to the old plan, by less than four hundred. 
 Two docks which were fitted up on this plan, with 
 wedges, »S:c. for each, amounted to little more than 
 the expence of raising a ship by the former method. 
 This consideration, althoujih of t;reat importance, is 
 of less consequence than the saving of labour, which 
 on many occasions is a very material object. This 
 will be observed in the bustle and activity that per- 
 vades every department of the arsenal, in time of war, 
 when the necessity for expedition, on some particular 
 emergencies, is so imperious, that the artilicers, ac- 
 cording to the technical phrase, frequently work tuo 
 foT ujie, and sometimes three for one. <Jn these oc- 
 casions, they perform twice or thrice the accustomed 
 quota of work m one day. 
 
 Improvements have also taken place in poiiU of 
 economy at this arsenal. The old copper, which is 
 stripped fronj the bottoms of ships, is submitted to 
 the action of fire, to remove the weeds, 6cc. the refuse 
 resulting from this process was formerly thrown away 
 as useless, but it having been ascertained, that valuable 
 metallic particles were contained in the rubbish, it 
 has been since sold at a considerable price. A salutary 
 regulation has taken place with regard to the chips 
 which the artificers were allowed to carry out of 
 the yard as a perquisite. It was found that the 
 bundles of chips frequently contained good timber, 
 and an order was issued to discontinue this practice 
 entirely, and to allow the shipwrights a weekly stipend 
 in lieu'of this privilege. The chips are now exposed 
 to public sale at stated intervals, and wc doubt not
 
 190 TOPOGRAPHICAL DESCRIPTION OF 
 
 the adoption of this wise regulation h;is lieen the 
 means of preventing crime, by removing the facilities 
 for depredation which the former system afforded. 
 
 The number of persons of every class who pursue 
 their respective avocations in the yard, is upwards of 
 three thousand. The whole are under the controul 
 of the connnissioner, to whose excellent arrangements 
 may be imputed the great order and regularity, which 
 cannot fail to excite the admiration of visitors. 
 
 The principal oiiicers, residents m the yard, cannot 
 sleep without the precincts unless by leave of the 
 commissioner. The night-patroles, which are selected 
 from the class of men called labourers, are under the 
 superintendance of these officers, who discharge this 
 duty in rotation. Two master-attendants, and a 
 master-shipwright's assistant, are also considered su- 
 perior officers, although their residences are in the 
 town. 
 
 The Dock-yard is constructed on ground belonging 
 to Sir J. St. Aubyn, and the lease is nearly expired. 
 
 A newspaper is now published weekly on Thursday, 
 under the revived title of " The Plymouth Dock 
 Weekly Journal." 
 
 The Post Office is in George-street. A two-penny 
 post having been lately estiiblished, in conformity to 
 its regulations, a messenger leaves Dock at eleven in 
 the forenoon daily, calls at Stonehouse, and proceeds 
 to Plymouth. At three in the afternoon, a messenger 
 starts from Plymouth, calls at Stonehouse, and pro- 
 ceeds thence to Dock. The letters are delivered im- 
 mediately, so as to be in tiine for a reply by the 
 Cornish mail. The office is shut at seven irf the 
 evening. 
 
 Dock, as before observed, is bounded on the east 
 and north sides by a ditch and regular fortifications. 
 Between these and the town a very considerable 
 portion of ground is occupied by government for bar- 
 racks, storehouses, &c. The grounds between these 
 buildings and the fortifications, form the general pro- 
 menade of the inhabitants. All round the lines the
 
 DEVOKSHIUE. 191 
 
 \iLus are liiglil) diveraified and pleabing. The walls 
 of the new iorlitications, on the north side, are an 
 admirable piece of workmanship. Granby and Marl- 
 borough barracks, with the magazines, naturally excite 
 attention. At the eastern extremity is the fine parade 
 or bastion occasioned by the angular course of the 
 lines. In this bastion are several mortars of a large 
 calibre. 
 
 Ascending the ramparts, in pursuing our %valk to 
 Mount Wise, the principal promenade, we first pass 
 the neat hospital for the train of artillery on the right; 
 and immediately after on our left, the guard-house at 
 the barrier-gate, which serves for the assistance of the 
 magistracy, in case of riots. Crossing the top of Fore- 
 street, and following the course of the lines, we pass 
 three batteries on our left, and then Ligonier-squarc, 
 occupied by the engineers; Frederic-square for artil- 
 lery, and Cumberland-square for infantry (jn our right. 
 Here are to be seen the IMilitary Infirmary and the 
 offices and workshops belonging to government. 
 Mount Wise, the next place to the barrier on the left, 
 is a large tract of ground on the south side of the 
 town, containing many military works. The surface 
 is very irregular, and the soil an entire rock, covered 
 with a layer of earth, not more than eight inches deep. 
 It has four entrances from the town, but the principal 
 of these is at the south end of George-strt^et. 
 
 Upon the grand parade here, all the troops in the 
 vicinity are reviewed on public days ; and the guards 
 parade every morning. This is a very general place 
 of resort among young people, and is absolutely 
 thronged on Sunday evenings. From the battery at 
 the east end there are good views of Stonehouse, Ply- 
 mouth, the Sound ; and from those at the south and 
 south-west end, a charming prospect of Mount Edg- 
 cumbe, and the lower part of the harbour. 
 
 Government House is a large plain building of 
 three stories, with two wings of two stories, and otfices 
 detached. The front of the house towards the parade 
 is lighted by lamps, fixed on the muzzles of large
 
 19J TUPOGIIAPHICAL DESCRIPTION 01* 
 
 pieces of ordnance, which are placed perpendicuhtrly 
 in the ground. Near the chief entrance is a brass 
 gun of great magnitude, taken from the Turks in the 
 memorable action of the Dardanelles, The Admiral's 
 House is at the north-west corner of the parade, 
 smaller than the Government House, having only two 
 wings joining to the centre building ; but in the front of 
 this are two batteries, one of four forty-two pounders, 
 the other of eight guns and three mortars. Further to 
 the westward, the ground rising to a point, is crowned 
 by a fort, encompassed on the land side by a very 
 small trench, and defended by a Serjeant's guard; 
 immediately behind this is the Telegraph. On the 
 west side is another battery, which, including those in 
 the grounds of Government House, &c. form an 
 almost impregnable barrier to any attempts on the 
 safety of the town or shipping, from the sea-coast. 
 
 From the south-west corner of the parade, a short 
 diagonal road leads to Richmond Walk, a beautiful 
 promenade, turning at irregular angles over the rocks, 
 along the sea-coast, near half a mile in length; having 
 a wall about nine feet high at the back, and another 
 of four feet in the front. The average width of the 
 walk is fourteen feet. Every turn presents a delight- 
 ful prospect to strangers. 
 
 TheAdmiraVs Hard is anew landing-place for boats 
 of his Majesty's navy ; to the left of this is another 
 landing-place for the convenience of the public, and a 
 building for the shelter of boats, &c. on the right. 
 
 Hichmond sea-haths, situate on a beautiful beach op- 
 posite Mount Edgcumbe, were projected and com- 
 pleted by a public-spirited individual, in a most res- 
 pectable style, not inferior to any in the west of 
 England. There are hot and cold-baths, and ma- 
 chines, the latter generally allowed to be the largest 
 and best contrived in England. A work so highly 
 conducive to the pleasure and convenience of the in- 
 habitants of the town and its vicinity, deserves every 
 encouragement. Richmond Walk is terminated at 
 each end by quays, &c.
 
 DEV0K9HIRE. 193 
 
 Morice-town is situated on the north side of the 
 Dock, and contains three principal streets and other 
 buildings, mostly erected during the late war. A row 
 of neat houses, called the new Navy Row, joins it to 
 Stoke Village, where are several tea-houses and gardens. 
 The Block-house stands in an elevated and command- 
 ing situation beiiind the village, and is capable of an- 
 noying the approach of armies from any quarter. 
 
 Proceeding through Stoke, about a mile from that 
 village on the left, is Manadon-Iiouse, the seat of 
 Captain Waldron of the royal navy. The house lies 
 low, and has nothing particular in its construction ; 
 but nevertheless appears respectable from the road. 
 From this place we proceed by a direct road, passing 
 through Knockers Knoll, and Jump, two villages, the 
 former of which is inhabited by very respectable per- 
 sons towards Roborough Down, where we have an 
 opportunity of viewing some of the objects on the 
 river Tavy. Jump is about two miles distant from the 
 road. 
 
 Roborough Down is an extensive common or waste 
 in the western district of the county. The soil is 
 black growan, clay, boggy or gravelly. The substrata 
 is of sehislus and marble, which succeed alternately to 
 the sea-side at Plymouth. 
 
 The Royal Military Hospital is contiguous to Stoke 
 Church ; this consists of four noble piles of building 
 three stories liigh, connected by a fine terrace, and 
 inclosed by a lofty wall. 
 
 The Royal Hospital for sick and hurt seamen and 
 marines, is a handsome assemblage of buildings on the 
 north side of the road leading to Plymouth. 
 
 The Marine Barracks are of an oblong form, on the 
 south-east part of the town, with an excellent parade, 
 which is much resorted to in summer evenings on 
 account of the excellent band of musicians attached 
 to the corps. From the north end of this building is 
 the new road to Plymouth which, though more cir- 
 cuitous than the usual route, is much more pleasant, 
 as it commands on one side, views of Plymouth, Dock, 
 S
 
 194 TOPOGRAPHICAL DESCJIIPTION OF 
 
 Stoke, and the surrounding country, and on the other 
 Mount Edgcumbe, the Sound, &c. 
 
 At tlie end of this new road is Mill Prison, for the 
 confinement of prisoners of war. From hence three 
 roads branch off to Plymouth. 
 
 FromDock there is a ferry over theTamar, called the 
 CremlU Passage, in the parish of Maker, which, though 
 joined to a part of Cornwall, is itself in Devonshire. 
 
 When the traveller has gratified his curiosity with the 
 Dock-jiards of Plymouth, and the Breakwater, Mount 
 Edgcumbe will be one of the next objects of attention. 
 
 The promontory of J\Iount Edgcumbe, running a 
 considerable way into the sea, forms one of the cheeks 
 of the entrance of Hamoaze harbour, which is here 
 half a mile across. The whole promontory is four or 
 five miles long, and three broad ; in shape a perfect 
 dorsum, high in the middle, and sloping gradually on 
 both sides towards the sea. In some places it is rocky 
 and abrupt. The entrance into the grounds from the 
 landing place at Cremill Passage, is at the bottom of 
 an avenue, terminating in a spacious lawn, irregularly 
 bounded by fine trees, and widening gradually as it 
 rises towards the house. 
 
 It has been observed that " many persons of real 
 taste and curiosity, for want of a conductor to direct 
 them in their walks round the grounds of Mount 
 Edgcumbe, and to explain the different views, arrive 
 at only a small portion of the place, see they know 
 not what, and feel dissatisfied at last with having seen 
 and known so little." To obviate every objection of 
 this nature is the design of the following pages^ 
 Strangers and travellers desirous of seeing the place, 
 can, by application, obtain permission on any day to 
 walk in the park and pleasure-grounds. The flower- 
 garden may be seen occasionally during the summer, 
 by a particular ticket, granted only to parties not 
 exceeding six persons. The house is never shewn. 
 
 The tour round the park may be performed in a 
 carriage ; but as walkers only are admitted at the 
 lower lodge, strangers must, in that case, go up the
 
 DEVONSHIRE. 195 
 
 public road to another entrance adjoining that at the 
 park-gate. 
 
 The following measurement of the principal roads 
 and walks, will enable the stranger to ascertain the 
 length of the tour he would wish to make, and thereby 
 direct him in his choice : 
 
 Miles. 
 Great tour of the Park from the Lodge by the ^ 
 White Seat, Redding Point, Maker Church, J- 4 
 
 and the Terrace j 
 
 Tour of the Park and Terrace by the church road S^ 
 From the Lodge to Redding Point, and return > ^ 
 
 by the Zigzags and Terrace ) 
 
 Tour of the pleasure-grounds from the house by > ^ , 
 the Amphitheatre and garden to the Lodge S ^ 
 From the Ijouse by the Home Terrace to the ^ 
 Arch, and return by liie lower Zigzags and > 2 
 
 Cottage Walk, to the Lodge j 
 
 The beauties of this delightful spot are, in some 
 measure, pourtrayed in the following elegant lines ad- 
 dressed to the late Countess of Edgcumbe on her 
 birth-day : 
 
 Return then, beauteous noble dame, 
 Once more thy former homage claim ; 
 Ev'n now the yet unfinish'd bower 
 Solicits thy creative power : 
 New arches and parterres to range, 
 So as to form a pleasing change; 
 Now n gay rainbow o'er the head. 
 Now a rich carpet underspread. 
 Return, return illustrious fair. 
 Resume thy wonted fost'ring care ; 
 Another Proserpine be found 
 Delighted on botanic ground. 
 
 But to return to the house : tliis stands higli up on 
 the side of the hill, and is at once picturesque and 
 appropriate to its situation. It is a building of con- 
 siderable antiquity, having been erected about the 
 year 1550 by Sir Richard Edgcumbe, Knt. in the 
 S2
 
 196 TOPOGRAPHICAL Dr.SCRIPTION OF 
 
 castellated style, battlemented, with round towers at 
 the corners; but these being small and inconvenient, 
 were pulled down in the middle of the last century, 
 and rebuilt in their present octangular form. The 
 ornaments round the doors and windows are of granite, 
 or moor-stone, as also the flight of steps ascending to 
 the principal front. Tlie interior contains nothing 
 remarkable except the hall in the centre, which was 
 originally Gothic, and reached up to the roof: but it 
 has long been modernised, and is now a handsome 
 lofty room of two stories, of different orders, with 
 galleries supported by columns of Devonshire marble. 
 The chimney-pieces, tables, and terms, bearing busts 
 of Italian workmanship, copied from the antique, 
 exhibit fine specimens of various Cornish granites. 
 This saloon, which from its singular yet agreeable 
 proportions, as well as from its architectural decora- 
 tions, has a noble and striking effect, is occasionally 
 used as a summer dining-room, and is also peculiarly 
 adapted for music, for which purpose a large and 
 excellent organ is erected in one of the galleries. 
 The rest of the old house has no pretensions to mag- 
 nificence, but the northern and eastern sides are 
 extremely chearful and pleasant, from the variety of 
 delightful views they conmiand, which the towers in 
 particular are admirably calculated for shewing to 
 the greatest advantage. An extensive addition has 
 been made, at different times, to the west end, con- 
 taining among other convenient apartments, a large 
 library, and a dining-room, which, from their southern 
 aspect, are more especially suited for a winter resi- 
 dence. The new wing presents a handsome, though 
 not strictly regular, elevation; but it is so concealed 
 as not to alter the original appearance of the building, 
 when viewed as a feature in the prospect, nor injure 
 its general character of antiquity. 
 
 The principal, or northern side of the house can 
 be approached only by walking up the lawn ; but a 
 road is carried along the avenue to the foot of the hilJ, 
 whence bending to the right, it leads through pleasing
 
 DEV0X6HIRE. 197 
 
 glades, bordered with stately chcsnut and other trees, 
 to the southern, or back front : and also, leaving the 
 house at a small distance on the left, conducts to the 
 principal entrance of the park. 
 
 There are tliree entrances to the grounds; one, for 
 pedestrians, at the bottom of the hill, at Cremill ; 
 another for carriage?, about half a mile up the public 
 road, leading to Cawsand, &c. and a third from the 
 water, at Barnpooi. The grounds are open to the 
 public in general, on Mondays; but may be viewed on 
 any other day by application to the steward, at the 
 house. We are persuaded that no one can traverse 
 Mount Edgcumbe, with a proper guide, without being 
 highly delighted by the countless and diversified beau- 
 ties wliich it displays. 
 
 On entering the park two roads present themseh'cs, 
 that to the lelt proceeds with an easy ascent in the 
 midst of a fine grove, till after crossing another branch, 
 it rises more rapidly through a wood of a wilder and 
 more rugged character, looking down a steep declivity 
 on the left into a beautiful valley; and on reaching 
 the summit of the hill, suddenly breaks out on the 
 prospect at the White Seat. 
 
 From this commanding spot the view is most ex- 
 tensive, and the whole circumjacent country is ex- 
 panded at your feet. Hence you completely and dis- 
 tinctly overlook the Hamoaze, and the whole course 
 of the river Tamar as high as the town of Saltash; 
 the ships in the harbour; the dock-yard imd town of 
 Dock; the fortifications and Government House; the 
 church and village of Stoke ; the Military Hospital ; 
 Stonehouse, with the Naval Hospital and Marine 
 Barracks; the citadel and churches of Plymouth; 
 Saltram, the seat of the Earl of Morley ; Catwater, 
 with its shipping, enclosed by Mount Batten; St. 
 Nicholas's Island, the Sound and Statton Heights be- 
 yond it; the whole view is bounded by a range of 
 iofty hills, among which the round top of Kingston (or 
 Hengist) Down, the peaked-head of Brent-Tor, and 
 S 3
 
 198 TOPOGRAPHICAL DESCRIPTION OF 
 
 the irregular summits of Dartmoor, ^re the most 
 elevated and conspicuous. 
 
 At this place the gravel-walk ceases ; and you enter 
 on a grass drive, which is carried round the whole 
 summit of the hill, and conducts straight forward to 
 Redding Point, whence is discovered a prospect of a 
 totally different description. An unbounded expanse 
 of open sea here bursts upon the sight, confined only 
 by S tatton Heights and the Mew-stone on the left, 
 and on the right by Penlee Point, under which lies 
 Cawsand Bay, with the little town from whence it 
 takes its name. The Breakwater, constructed for 
 the security of ships anchoring in the Sound, ap- 
 pears immediately in front, and in clear weather the 
 Eddystone light-house is visible at a great distance 
 in the offing. A thatched seat affords here another 
 resting place. Opposite to this, but concealed by 
 the brow of the hill, a gate opens into the zigzag 
 walks. 
 
 From this eastern extremity of the hill, the winds 
 drive round the southern side in a bold and beautiful 
 sweep, following the natural curves of the ground, and 
 commanding, in various points of view, the prospect 
 last described, till it reaches the western boundary of 
 the park. 
 
 If the walker prefer returning by the northern side, 
 he will discover, as he proceeds westward beyond the 
 White Seat, new prospects opening on his view, of 
 the several rivers and estuaries branching out of the 
 Hamoaze, of the village of Millbrook, and of a great 
 extent of well cultivated country. Part of VVhitsand 
 Bay is discernible over the narrow isthmus that con- 
 nects the peninsula of Mount Edgcumbe with Corn- 
 wall, and the long range of elevated coast, which 
 forms its further boundary, is distinctly seen. At the 
 upper park-gate, just outside the enclosure, stands the 
 parish church of Maker, of which the high tower is a 
 conspicuous object for many miles round, and is used 
 (in time of war), as a signal-house for giving notice of
 
 DEVONSHIRE. J99 
 
 king's ships coming to the port, or passing along the 
 channel. 
 
 Both ends of the grass drive terminate in a gravel- 
 road, which, having ascended the hill by a shorter cut, 
 traverses the park at its western extremity. 
 
 Turning along this to the left hand towards the 
 southern side, you are conducted, by a gentle descent, 
 with Cawsand Bay in front, the town of that name, 
 the surrouiiding hills, and the redoubts on Maker 
 heights opening on the view as you advance, round a 
 winding valley called Hoe-Lake,wild and finely shaped, 
 with a cottage under a tuft of trees at the bottom, 
 which adds to its picturesque effect. 
 
 Being arrived about halfway down the hill, a short 
 turn to the left leads to the entrance of the Great 
 Terrace; and the road proceeds on a perfect level 
 through plantations of fir and other trees, with the 
 sea at a great depth below on the right, till another 
 sharp turn discovers Pickle Combe. 
 
 This little valley is so regularly scooped out by 
 Nature, as almost to bear the appearance of art. Its 
 sides above the road are planted with various trees ; 
 the lower part thickly overspread with heath, and 
 other wild plants: down the centre runs a grass walk. 
 At the upper end stands a picturesque building over- 
 grown with ivy, composed of old moor-stone arches, 
 niclies, and pinnacles, to represent a ruined chapel. 
 From the seat in it you look down this singularly 
 formed vale, beyond the opening of which no object 
 whatever appears but a wide expanse of sea. 
 
 Leaving this most solitary spot, the terrace leads 
 round the other side of the valley, and at the next 
 comer we are in the midst of a plantation of the finest 
 flowering shrubs; the arbutus, the laurustinus, the 
 Portugal laurel, and other evergreens, growing with 
 the greatest luxuriance to an uncommon size, and 
 covering the whole of the abrupt cliff as far down as 
 the soil allows of vegetation, the sea dashing against 
 the rocks below. Not a deciduous plant appears, and 
 this singular spot, protected from every cold blast, and
 
 200 TOPOGRAPHICAL DESCRIPTION OF 
 
 fully open to the south, retains its charms equally 
 through every season of the year. The road continues 
 winding amidst this romantic shrubbery, offering fresh 
 beauties at every turn, till you arrive at the Arch, 
 where a stone seat placed at the edge of an almost 
 perpendicular precipice, commands a fine view over 
 the. Sound immediately at your feet, with the open 
 sea to the right; St. Nicholas's Island, Plymouth, 6cc. 
 to the left. At this place are the principal ascent 
 and descent to the Zigzag Walks, which are cut in 
 the side of the hill both above and below the Terrace, 
 extending upwards to Redding Point, where they enter 
 the park, and downwards as low as the cliff is practi- 
 cable. By the lower Zigzags you may return to the 
 bottom of Pickle Combe, from whence they are again 
 continued as far as Hoc-Lake. From the number and 
 intricacy of these walks, it is not possible to describe 
 them accurately, or give directions what paths to pur- 
 sue ; but every part of them is extremely beautiful, 
 and almost every turn discovers some fresh view, from 
 the variety of the rocks which form the coast, and 
 from the different partial peeps caught through the 
 trees and shrubs. The further part of them, beyond 
 Pickle Combe, is more open, and of a wilder character 
 than those on the nearer side of that valley, and com- 
 mand the best view of Cawsand Bay, as also of the 
 whole southern side of the hill. The new, or Upper 
 Zigzags, are, if possible, still more beautiful than the 
 lower; the cliff in parts being more abrupt, the shrubs 
 more luxuriant, and the views, from the height whence 
 they are seen, more magnificent and commanding. 
 At the very summit, a bench, placed on a prominent 
 point of rock, overlooks the whole side of the almost 
 perpendicular precipice, clothed with its rich covering 
 of arbutus and other evergreens, which seem to dip 
 their luxuriant branches into the boundless expanse of 
 sea extended beneath. No point, perhaps, is so bold 
 and truly grand as this, but the ascent to it, especially 
 on one side, is rather steep and tremendous. These 
 upper walks are divided into three principal branches.
 
 DEVONSHIRE. i^Oi 
 
 One already noticed, a second ascending from the 
 oilier side of ll;e Arch by siairs in ll.e rock, and a 
 tliird joining the Terrace at the corner of Pickle 
 Coiube. NolwiihsUinding the steepness of tlie cliif, 
 the whole of the Zi^/ag Walks are so conducted as to 
 be perfectly safe and easy, and numberless benches 
 alFord (opportunities of rest to the walker disposed to 
 explore and enjoy their infinite variety of beauties. 
 There arc also c(jvered seats interspersed aiuijiig them, 
 all in character with the surrounding scenery. 
 
 Having re^;ained the Terrace, we pass under the 
 Arch (a buildmi; constructed so as to appear like a 
 perforation ol the natural rock, which seen)s here to 
 bar the passage), and soon quitting this inclosed part, 
 enter a thick ami deep wood, which totally excludes 
 all view, and atfonlb a pleasing rest to the eye, aftei 
 the glare of the brilliant scenes it has been so long 
 contemplating. From this shade you again unex- 
 pectedly burst forth on the rich prospect at a pro- 
 minent p<jinl of the park, on which stands the Ruin, 
 reprcsetiling the imperfect remains of a tower with 
 a large Gothic window. The objects which here prc^ 
 sent themselves are the same that were seen from the 
 first station at the White Seat, with the addition of 
 tho Rlew-Stone, and a considerable extent of sea. 
 But the prospect now opens gradually as you wind 
 round the point, and varies in appearance from being 
 brought nearer to the eye, and viewed from a lower 
 level. It is worth while to go up to a platform on 
 the building (which is ascended by an easy stair), 
 from whence a delightful panorama is discovered. On 
 the one hand the wood you have just passed through, 
 on the other the beautiful wooded valley first noticed, 
 arc from hence completely overlooked, and with their 
 rich variety of foliage form a charming foreground to 
 the distant picture presented on three sides, whilst 
 the view on the fourth is finely bounded by the boldly 
 rising hill, and wild scenery of the park. 
 
 From this point the terrace proceeds into the wood, 
 and making the circuit of the head of the valleyj
 
 SJ02 TOPaORAPKrCAL DESCRIPTION OF 
 
 joins the road by which we first ascended the hill, and 
 conducts back to the house. 
 
 The third branch connects the two principal roads 
 that ascend the hill ; and also leads to a private gate 
 of the park, from whence it passes into an extensive 
 drive through other woods, and round the farm-grounds. 
 But if the walker chooses to pursue it, he may go 
 down to the gate by the other road through a fine 
 piece of ground, hitherto little seen, which commands 
 extensive and varied prospects, though of a less bold 
 and romantic character than those he has left. From 
 a walk round the lower part of this quarter of the 
 park, is obtained the nearest and best view of Ha- 
 moaze, which here presents a wide and finely shaped 
 piece of water, at once beautiful and interesting from 
 the large portion of the British navy securely moored 
 within its spacious haven : hence too the dock-yard is 
 completely overlooked, with the village of Torpoint 
 on the opposite side of the river. More westward, 
 Millbrook, at the head of its winding estuary, forms a 
 pleasing little picture, confined towards the south by 
 the hill, clothed with a long range of wood, not seen 
 from any other point, and connected with the planta- 
 tions of the park. Returning towards tlie house, its 
 pinnacles are seen rising in a picturesque manner 
 above the trees, and tlie various distant objects open 
 on the sight, as you wind round a beautifully shaped 
 knoll. 
 
 To go from the Zigzags, the walkers, instead of re- 
 ascending to the Great Terrace from the Zigzags, will 
 take a path cut round the perpendicular cliff under 
 the Arch (which, though so tremendous in appearance 
 as to be called the Horrors, is yet sufficiently wide to 
 be perfectly safe), and enter the open park below the 
 wood through which the drive is carried. This walk, 
 commanding in all its extent a very fine view of the 
 Sound and surrounding objects, to which this wild 
 part of the park is a beautiful foreground, leads to the 
 Cottage, a neat thatched building placed at the foot 
 of the wood, and overhung by some beautiful ever-
 
 r)EV0N5HIR£. 203 
 
 green oaks. In it there is a room tor resting, the 
 windows of whicli look out on pleasing views, the one 
 of the Mew-Stone, the other of the Island. Passing 
 from hence under the Ruin before-mentioned, which 
 has here a good eftect, the walk soon approaches the 
 cliff, and proceeds through plantations on its ed^e, 
 with some steep ascents and descents, catching peeps 
 at various parts of the prospects, and looking down on 
 some fine coves and picturesque |)oints of rock, till it 
 enters the home grounds, and jo;ns the walks, to the 
 description of which we now proceed. 
 
 In the pleasure-grounds, the first striking object is 
 the Shrubbery, situated on the eminence immediately 
 behind the house, and connected with its southern 
 front. It lies on a gentle declivity, and the walk 
 round it atVords a pleasing variety, from the easy swell 
 and constant inequality of the ground; for some space 
 too it commands a fine prospect. Towards the fur- 
 ther end of the garden, whence all view is excluded, 
 stands a bower, with an arcade of trellis advancing 
 over the walk, covered with creeping plants, which 
 forms an agreeable shady retreat; and in a still more 
 retired part is a semi-circular covered seat, faced and 
 lined with petrifactions and spars from rocks in the 
 neighbourhood, intermixed with shells and various 
 fossils, chieHy the produce of Cornwall. The arbutus 
 and other shrubs grow here with remarkable luxuriance, 
 and the ground is also ornamented with several fine 
 cedars of Libanus. This small, but pleasing feature 
 of the place, is rarely shewn to strangers. 
 
 Commencing the tour round the lower grounds at 
 the eastern end of the house, you first enter on a wide 
 gravel-walk, called the Home Terrace, \\hich bounds 
 the upper side of the lawn, and overlooking the vene- 
 rable groves below it, commands a delightful pros- 
 pect of the Harbour, Sound, and surrounding country. 
 From thence suddenly turning to the right, you proceed 
 round thevalley before alluded to, which, from its shape, 
 is distinguished by the name of the Amphitheatre. 
 
 Having, by a gentle rise through a thick wood of
 
 204 TOPOGRAPHICAL DESCRIPTION OF 
 
 the finest trees, reached the centre of the valley, the 
 walk descends as gradually round the other side, to a 
 rustic thatched seat, built of unhewn trees, and lined 
 with moss, from which you look into the deep bosom 
 of the vale, catching also a glimpse of the water 
 through the trees, and of some of the buildings on the 
 opposite shore. Here the walk makes a sudden turn, 
 descending in a contrary direction to recross the valley, 
 and soon after it divides into two branches: the one 
 proceeding forward in a regular sweep round the wood 
 to the opposite side, conducts back to the great lawn 
 in front of the house; the other, returning again on 
 the same side, carries you down to the lower end of 
 the valley (where it is joined by the walk from the 
 cottage by the cliffs), and when arrived at the water's 
 edge, crosses the bottom of this noble Amphitheatre, 
 which from hence is seen to the greatest advantage. 
 The lawn, which occupies the bottom of the valley, 
 rising in a regular curve and beautiful swell all round, 
 loses itself by degrees in the semi-circle of wood, 
 which towers above to a great height, affording every 
 variety of form and foliage, from the number of forest 
 and exotic trees of all descriptions, in which it abounds. 
 On the left hand, at a small distance from the walk, 
 stands the Temple of Milton, an Ionic rotunda, half 
 closed, and supported in front by four open columns. 
 Within it are the following lines from his Paradise 
 Lost, exactly descriptive of the spot : 
 " Over head up grew 
 Insuperable height of loftiest shade, 
 Cedar, and fir, and pine, and branching palm, 
 A sylvan scene; and as the ranks ascend 
 Shade above shade, a woody theatre 
 Of stateliest view." 
 
 This place also gave birth to the following Address 
 to Milton : 
 
 Due to thy verse beyond all praise. 
 
 Thy zealous votary, 
 Great Bard ! this dome presumes to raise, 
 And dedicates to thee ;
 
 DEVONbHIRE. 205 
 
 But not as if thy vot'ry thouglit 
 
 A pyramid in size, 
 \V'ere it of Parian marble wrought, 
 
 Could thee immortalize. 
 Yet venders mountain scenery, 
 
 By Nature's hand design'd, 
 Gives to the rapt spectator's eye, 
 
 An image of tliy mind. 
 For sure the self-same plastic power 
 
 That rear'd the mountain's site, 
 Bad€ thine aspiring genius tow'r 
 
 To Empyrean height. 
 
 Frum the association of this spot the traveller of 
 taste will also enter into the feelings which dictated 
 the following stanzas : 
 
 And well, O Milton ! is thy Ijonoured bust, 
 Placed the deep twilight of these shades among; 
 For though far otV repose the Poet's dust, 
 Here lingers still the spirit of his song; 
 And oft at Eve these high arcades along 
 To Fancy's dreaming eye his form will glide, 
 While ev'n the depth of stillness finds a tongue; 
 And sounds unearthly float upon the tide, 
 Or in faint murmurs die along the dark hill side. 
 The external prospect forms a beautiful scene from 
 every part of this theatre, presenting Barnpool closed 
 in on all sides by the irregular coast which surrounds 
 it, with its various promontories and inlets, otVering 
 thus the appearance of a large lake, whilst numerous 
 vessels constantly in motion, give life and variety to 
 this charming picture. Amongst the fine trees which 
 adorn this valley, several tulip trees, Oriental and 
 Occidental planes of a remarkable size, a large cedar 
 of Libanus, and a Carolina poplar of extraordinary 
 lioight, ought particularly to be noticed. 
 
 "The Amphitheatre may also be seen to great ad- 
 vantage another way. A \\alk descending across the 
 lawn from the Home Terrace, leads into the Beech- 
 walk, a beautiful windinL' avenue, from which you look 
 T
 
 206 TOrOGRAPIilCAL DESCRIPTION Of 
 
 down on the left through an open <;n)vc of {me oak, 
 beech, and other trees, on Barnpooi and its surround- 
 ing scenery, partially cauglit in numerous delightful 
 peeps, forming as many different little pictures. At 
 the end of this walk (from wlience a short communi- 
 cation leads on the left to the lower grounds), winding 
 to the right, on the same level, you enter an avenue 
 of horse chesnut trees, which soon brings you to the 
 valley ; and proceeding round it under another arch 
 of lofty beeches, join the walk before described, taking 
 only the lower circle. Or, to take a still shorter way, 
 you may descend immediately from the end of the 
 Beech-walk to the bottom of the valley. 
 
 On leaving this fine feature of the place, the walk 
 proceeds through the wood in a gradual sweep on the 
 edge of the cliff, which forms a succession of coves 
 overhung with the finest old trees, whose boughs 
 almost touch the water, to another lawn at the private 
 landing-place in Barnpooi : and shortly after, to an 
 iron railing and gate, the entrance into the garden, 
 which without a particular conductor, the stranger 
 cannot enter, but must go round to another. 
 
 The first object that here strikes the eye, and to 
 which the walk immediately conducts you, is the 
 Block-house, standing on the point of land which forms 
 oneside of the narrowest part of the entrance into the 
 Harbour. It was built, with two or three others, in 
 the reign of Queen Elizabeth, for the defence of the 
 port, and is now a picturesque ruin, covered with ivy. 
 Against one of its sides, a plain portico of two moor- 
 stone columns has been erected for a seat, and in front 
 of it is a saluting battery of twenty-one guns. A 
 tablet in the wall gives the following description from 
 " Carew's Survey of Cornwall, A. D. 1(302 :" 
 
 " Both sides of the narrow entrance are fenced with 
 Block-houses, and that next Mount Edgcumbe was 
 wont to be planted with ordnance, which at coming 
 and parting, with their base voices greeted such guests 
 as visited the house." 
 
 The other Block-house here spoken uf, is still stand-
 
 DEVONSUIRE. 207 
 
 ing on tlie opposite rocks; a modern redoubt has been 
 erected on the lii'.l above it. The battery was restored 
 in 1747, but was again entirely remounted in 1800, 
 with French eight-pounders, all purchased from prizes. 
 The view from this spot is most delightful, compre- 
 hending all Barnpool, and the Sound, the Island, 
 Mount Batten, and Mew-stone, with the open sea 
 beyond. Hence, too, a large portion of the hill^ and 
 woods of the place itself, are seen to the greatest ad- 
 vantage, with the towers of tlie house rising above the 
 trees in which it appears embosomed. No single 
 view, perhaps, exhibits so much variety as this, and 
 from the continual passing of vessels of all descriptions, 
 from the first-rate man-of-war to the smallest boat, 
 none is so animated and interesting. 
 
 Before we pursue further the walk leading onwards 
 from the Point, we must make a digression to the 
 interior parts of the garden, to which you are con- 
 ducted by a walk leading to the upper side of the 
 lawn, where a terrace runs along by the edge of the 
 shrubbery: at tlic further end of tliis, a walk turns into 
 the plantation, from which, very soon after, a narrow 
 and almost hidden path, on the right hand, winds 
 down into a small quarry or excavation, thickly over- 
 shadowed with high evergreens, and overspread with 
 ivy and other low plants, through which the natural 
 rock of the soil peeps out on all sides : in this little 
 obscure recess are placed a number of antique cinerary 
 urns and sarcophagi disposed irregularly about the 
 ground, and on the various points of rock, exhibiting 
 the appearance of a Roman cemetery. At the further 
 end, amidst a confused heap of stones, lies a fine 
 capital of the Corinthian order, brought from the ruins 
 of Alexandria. The whole effect is whinjsical, and the 
 deepness of the shade makes this place a most re- 
 freshing retreat in hot weather. 
 
 The walk which you left, and to which you must 
 
 return, then conducts you into the English Flower 
 
 Garden, an irregular piece of ground, of considerable 
 
 extent, laid out in beds of shrubs and flowers, and 
 
 T2
 
 208 TOPOGRAPHICAL BESCHIPTION OF 
 
 traversed by gravel- walks, so disposed as to conceal its 
 boundaries, and occasionally to open agreeable vistas, 
 displaying to tlie best advantage the many beautiful 
 trees that adorn it : amongst which some extraordinary 
 fine magnolias, of unusual size, cedars both of Libanus 
 and Virginia, and several cork-trees, ought particularly 
 to be remarked. A bench presents the following lines 
 from Cowper : 
 
 *' Prospects, however lovely, may be seen 
 Till half their beauties fade ; the wearied eye 
 Too well acquainted with their charms, slides off 
 Fastidious, seeking less familiar scenes. 
 Then snug enclosures in some sheltered spot, 
 Where frequent hedges intercept the eye, 
 Delight us, happy to renounce awhile. 
 Not senseless of its charms, what still we love. 
 That such short absence may endear it more." 
 
 This garden is further decorated by a hatidsome 
 pavilion, containing a sitting-room, a dressing-room, 
 and a bath, where hot and cold water are poured 
 from the mouths of two bronze dolphins, into a capa- 
 cious marble bason. 
 
 Adjoining to this is the French Flower-garden, a 
 little square enclosure, bounded by a high-cut hedge of 
 evergreen oak and bay, and laid out in a parterre, with 
 a bason and jet d'eau in the midst, surrounded by ber- 
 ceaux and arches of trellis twined over by all sorts of 
 creeping plants. One side of the garden is occupied 
 by an octagon room very prettily furnished, and open- 
 ing on each side into conservatories. A picture at 
 the back of the room, being removed, discovers a beau- 
 tiful little statue ofMeleager, behind which, a glass is 
 so placed, as to reflect all the garden, and create, 
 from a little distance, a pleasing illusion. This figure 
 is answered by another of Mercury, placed opposite 
 to it, outside the enclosure, and only seen in perspec- 
 tive under the arches. In the border, en one side, a 
 singularly fine magnolia should be remarked : oppo- 
 site to it, on the other, is erected an urn, bearing oq
 
 DEVONSHIRE. 209 
 
 a tablet the name, Sopbia, Countess of Mount Edg- 
 cuuibe, who died in 1806, on the pedestal of whici* 
 is the following inscription : 
 
 To the ^Memory of 
 
 Her, 
 
 Whose taste embellished, 
 
 Whose presence added charms 
 
 I'o these retreats, 
 
 (Herself their brightest ornament), 
 
 This Urn is erected 
 
 In the spot she loved. 
 
 From this little retired spot, a narrow walk carries 
 you back to the Block-house lawn, passing by a small 
 grove of fine cypresses, (in which there is a handsome 
 monument), and suddenly breaking out again on the 
 beautiful prospect before described. 
 
 Proceeding now from tlie battery round the point, 
 you come to Thomson's Seat, a Doric alcove, so 
 called from the lines quoted below from his Autumn, 
 which are written in it, as strictly applicable to the 
 view it commands, consisting of the Harbour and 
 passage-way, Stonehonse, Govenmient-house, the for- 
 tifications on "Mount Uise, and the Dock-yard, par- 
 ticularly that part of it where are the slips for build- 
 ing the largest ships of war: 
 
 " On either hand, 
 
 Like a long wint'ry forest, groves of masts 
 
 Shot u]) their spires; the bellying sheet between 
 
 Possess'd the breezy void : the sooty hulk 
 
 Stcer'd sluggish on : the splendid barge along 
 
 Row'd, regular, to harmony : around, 
 
 The boat, light skimming, stretch'd its oary wings, 
 
 While deep the various voice of fervent toil 
 
 From bank to bank encreas'd ; whence ribb'd with oak. 
 
 To bear the British thunder, black and bold. 
 
 The roaring vessel rush'd into the main." 
 
 At the end of the lawn before this seat, you enter 
 the Italian-garden, or Orangery. This plot of ground 
 is eucirclcdbv a fine bank of arbutus, laurusiinus, 
 T 3
 
 210 TOPOGRAPHICAL DESCRIPTION OF 
 
 and otlier evergreens, and disposed in a regular mari- 
 ner with gravel walks, all meeting in the centre, at a 
 bason of water, in the midst of which is a beautiful 
 marble fountain. Four Cariatides, representing mer- 
 maids, standing on a square pedestal, support on 
 their heads a large bason, through which the water 
 rises to some height, and falling into it again, de- 
 scends from thence in a shower on every side. The 
 orange trees, many of which are among the finest in 
 England, are very numerous, and in summer are 
 ranged along the sides of the walks, forming avenues 
 in every direction. The house which shelters them 
 in winter, is a noble building of the Doric order, a 
 Ijundred feet in length, and of proportionable width 
 and height. On the opposite side of the garden is a 
 terrace, ascended by steps, and diagonal slopes: the 
 walls are inlaid with tablets and pannels' of marble, 
 and surmounted by a balustrade, on the top of which 
 stands the Apollo of the Belvidere, between the V^enus 
 of Medici and Bacchus. Statues of Flora, Ceres, the 
 Discobolus, and Antinous, decorate the lower ground. 
 In a niche under the central figure, is placed a bust 
 of Ariosto, and beneath it are inscribed the following 
 translation from that poet : 
 
 ** Near to the shore, from whence with soft ascent 
 Rises the pleasant hill, there is a place. 
 With many an orange, cedar, myrtle, bay, 
 And ev'ry shrub of grateful scent adorn'd. 
 The rose, the lily, crocus, serpolet. 
 Such sweets diflfuse from th' odoriferous ground, 
 Tliat from the land each gently breathing gale 
 Wafts forth the balmy fragrance to the sea.*' 
 
 The following stanzas to tlie Italian garden, were 
 written by the Rev. Sir Robert Hughes, Bart. 
 
 In yonder beauteous mimic form, 
 
 Touch'd by her magic wand. 
 Could real animation warm 
 
 At Fancy's sole command:
 
 DEvoNsuir.t:. 211 
 
 Could matter Le «itli seiibe eiulued, 
 
 Spirit below remain. 
 And Ariosto thus renexNed, 
 
 In marble breathe uiiain — 
 How chann'd ti.e quicken'd man would be! 
 
 How would this citron grove 
 Remind him of his Italy, 
 
 And pronjpt to tales of love ! 
 Ilecorded in th' liistonc page 
 
 Egeria's sombre grot, 
 Not more appropriate to the sage, 
 Than to the bard this spot. 
 If the weather be favourable, as the tourist ad- 
 vances t(>ward:i the summit of the promontory of 
 Mount Edgcun»be, he will see on one side, all the 
 intricacies and creeks which form the harbour ai IMy- 
 mouth, with an extensive country spreading beyond 
 it. 'I'lie other side of the promontory overlooks the 
 Sound, the great rendezvous of the Navy in war time. 
 One of the boundaries of this extensive bay, is a neck 
 of land running out into pointed rocks ; the other is 
 a lofty smooth promontory, called the Ram's Head. 
 Upon the sunnnit of this is a tower, from which no« 
 tice is given at Plymouth, by signals, of the number 
 and ()uality of ships that appear in the otiing. The 
 view from the higlier grounds of i\Iount Edgcumbe 
 are of the grandest description, especially the appear- 
 ance of the Eddystonc Light-house by night. 
 
 On the highest eminence of Mount Edgcumbe, 
 stands Maker Church, a plain building, containing 
 nothing worthy of note but the monument of the 
 Edgcumbe family ; but its lofty tower lias long been 
 known as a fit station for the display of signals re- 
 lative to ships in tiie Channel. If the curious stranger 
 be desirous of taking one of the most extensive views 
 that the eye can possibly reach, ue recommend him 
 10 ascend "the tower, whicii he may be allowed to do 
 by a small gratuity to one of the attendants, by the 
 assistance of whose telescope he will view such an 
 interesting and extensive as^einbhige of objects, as
 
 212 TOPOGRAPHICAL DESCRIPTION OF 
 
 will not fail to excite his admiration, and gratify his 
 taste. 
 
 On these heights are batteries, and a detachment of 
 soldiers. On the south side of Maker, is Cavvsand 
 Bay ; a convenient haven, with a depth of water suffi- 
 cient for the largest ships. The two villages of Caw- 
 sand and Kingsand stretch round the very steep hills 
 at the head of the bay, but contain nothing worth 
 mentioning. The sea-mark, in form of a tower, on 
 Penlee Point, has a picturesque appearance : on this 
 promontory is the village and church of Rharae. 
 
 It has been appositely remarked, as less wonderful, 
 that Mount Edgcumbe should awaken poetic ideas, 
 than that visitors should leave this enchanting domain 
 without participating in the feelings which inspired 
 the following lines: 
 
 " Parewell, Mount Edgcumbe, all thy calm retreats, 
 Thy lovely prospects, and tliy mossy seats ! 
 Farewell the coolness of thy dark deep woods ! 
 Farewell the grandeur of thy circling floods ! 
 Where'er futurity may lead the way, 
 Where in this vale of life I chance to stray, 
 Imagination to thy scenes shall turn, 
 Dwell on thy charms, and for thy beauties burn." 
 Redding^s Mount Edgcumbe. 
 
 Table uf Hackney Coach Fares in Flymouth and its 
 Vicinity. 
 
 Number of J 
 sengers. 
 
 Fares. 
 s. d. 
 1 
 
 1 6 
 
 2 
 
 One or more 
 
 Between any place in Plymouth,") 
 
 Plymouth-dock or Stonehouse, 
 
 and any other place within the 
 
 same town, except Coxside and 
 
 the Victualling-office, at Ply- j 
 
 mouth J 
 
 Between any place in Plymouth,'} _ 
 
 and Bound's Cove, the Citadel,/ i""^^' ^^^' 
 
 VictualIing-office,Coxside,andf L ^^ ^^^^^ 
 
 Tothill .? \Fou^ •
 
 DEVONsHir.E. 
 
 2i3 
 
 tries f 
 
 '} 
 
 vcen Old Town Stand, in ) 
 lymouth, and any place inf 
 oke, or Muricc-Town, hyC 
 ay of Penny-come-quick ... 3 
 
 ;} 
 
 And any place within the 
 rishes of .St. Andrew &Ch 
 
 Between Old Town Stand, in Ply-"] 
 mouth, and any place in Ply- | 
 mouth-dock, not exceeding in J> 
 distance iJie Stand in Fore- I 
 street J 
 
 And any place in Plymoutl 
 dock, exceeding in distance the 
 Stand in Fore-street 
 
 Between 
 PI 
 
 Stoke 
 way or f enny-come-qu 
 
 And any other place in the parish 7 
 of Stoke Damarell J 
 
 And any place in Stonehousc, in 
 the direct roads between Ply 
 mouth and Plymouth-dock .. 
 
 And any other place in Stone- 
 house, not exceed 
 tance the southern 
 Durnford-strcct 
 
 And any other place, exceeding 
 in distance the southern end of 
 Durnford-street 
 
 Between any place in Plymouth,"^ 
 beyond Old Town Stand, tx 
 cept Coxside and the Victual- '> 
 ling-oflicc,and any of the places 
 above mentioned 
 
 Between Coxside, Tothill, the 
 Citadel, and the Victualling- 
 office, and any of the places f 
 above mentioned j 
 
 Between the Stand in Fore-street,"^ 
 Plymouth-dock, and anyplace 
 In Stonehouse, in the direct 
 roads between Plymouth and 
 Plvmouth-dock 
 
 :e in Stone-"! 
 ling in di^-/ 
 ■rn end of^ 
 
 Number of '. 
 seugera. 
 
 One or more 
 
 One 
 
 Two or three 
 Four 
 
 An additional 
 
 One, two,7 
 or three ^ 
 Four 
 
 One or more 
 
 One 
 
 Two or three 
 Four 
 
 One, two,l 
 or three j 
 Four 
 
 One, two, \ 
 
 or three j 
 
 Four 
 
 An additional 
 
 An additional 
 
 One 
 
 I Four 
 
 or three
 
 214 
 
 TOPOGRAPHICAL DESCRIPTION OF 
 
 Numbprsof Pas- 
 • seiif'.ers. 
 
 lis-( 
 
 And any other place in Stone 
 house, not exceeding in d" 
 tance the southern end 
 Durnford-street 
 
 Between the Stand in Fore-"^ 
 street, Plymouth - dock, and \ 
 any place exceeding in dis- ^ 
 tance the southern end of | 
 Durnford-street J 
 
 And Stoke Church, Morice- ) 
 Town, or the village of Stoke j 
 
 And any other place in the pa-T 
 rish of Stoke-Damarell, be-f 
 yond Stoke Church, or the vil- f 
 lage of Stoke j 
 
 Between any other place in Ply-") 
 mouth-dock, exceeding in dis- | 
 tance the Stand in Fore-street, J>- 
 and any of the places above | 
 mentioned J 
 
 Between any place in Stone-^ 
 house and Stoke Church, Mo- / 
 rice-Town, or the village off 
 Stoke J 
 
 Between any place in Stone- 
 house and any place in the pa 
 rish of Stoke-Damarell, be- 
 yond Stoke Church, or the 
 village of Stoke 
 
 Between any place in Stone-' 
 house beyond the southern end 
 of Durnford-street, and any of 
 the places above mentioned ... 
 
 One, two,^ 
 
 or three f 
 
 Four 
 
 One, two,? 
 
 or three 5 
 
 Four 
 
 One or more 
 
 An additional 
 
 An additional 
 
 One or more 
 
 An additional 
 
 An additional 
 
 As the drivers of carriages are subject to a double 
 toll on Sundays, an additional sixpence to the ordi- 
 nary fares is allowed for every time such double toll 
 is actually paid. 
 
 Drivers of carriages shall go from the stand, either
 
 - DEVON 5 II IKE. CI 6 
 
 in Plymouth tr Dock, to any part of Stouehou.'ie, 
 (provided tl»e distance does not exceed the southern 
 end of Durnford-btrcet), to take up a fare, for which 
 he shall be allowed sixpence, in addition to the ordi- 
 iiary fare. 
 
 Every driver shall allow ten minutes, to take up 
 any person or persons by whom he may be hired; but 
 if detained longer, he sliall be allowed sixpence for 
 every quarter of ;in hour that be may wait. 
 
 Every driver shall, if required, wait, to take back 
 any fare he may liave carried to any place, for any 
 space of time not exceeding six hours. 
 
 Drivers are subject to these regulations by niglit as 
 well as by day, uithoiit any additional expencc. 
 
 From the Uhame Head, and other high hills in the 
 neighbourhood, good views may be obtained of the 
 Eddystone Light-house. 
 
 This stands on a rock, or rather a collection of 
 rocks, at the entrance of Plymouth Sound, about nine 
 jniles from the land, covered at high water; but at 
 low water bare; ssituated about twelve miles and a 
 half from the nnddle of the Sound. The many fatal 
 accidents which have happened from ships running 
 upon these dreadful rocks, either in the niglit, at 
 high water, or in bad weath.cr, peremptorily urged 
 the necessity of erecting a light-house on the spot; 
 and accordingly, in 1606, one was undertaken to be 
 built by Mr. Wynstanley, who with great art and 
 expedition completed the work. In a drendful tem- 
 pest, however, in November 1703, this light-house 
 was blown down, and the ingenious builder, with 
 several other persons that were in it, perished. An- 
 other was immediately erected, which, in December 
 1755, took tire, and ^ was destroyed. The present 
 building was constructed by Mr. Smeaton, in 1774. 
 It consists of four rooms, one over another, and at 
 the top a gallery and a lantern. The stone floors 
 are flat above, but concave beneath, and arc kept 
 from pressing against the sides of the building hy a 
 chain let into the walls. Portland stone and granite
 
 216 TOPOGRAPHICAL DESCRIPTION OF 
 
 are united together by a strong cement, and let into 
 horizontal steps by dove-tails on the south-west. The 
 foundation is one entire mass of stones, to the heiglit 
 of 35 feet, engrafted into each other, and united by 
 every means of additit)nal strength. The whole build- 
 iog is about SO feet high, 
 
 EDDYSTONE LIGHT-HOUSE. 
 
 Though every precaution was taken to secure the 
 second light-house against the two elements of wind 
 and water, which had destroyed the first, it fell by a 
 third. In 1755, it was observed from the shore to be on 
 fire; but it happened fortunately that Admiral West- 
 rode was with a fleet at that time in the Sound, and 
 being so near the spot, and perceivingthedanger of the 
 unfortunate inmates, contrived with much difficulty 
 to take them oft" the rocks, \vhcre they liad crept for
 
 DEVONSHinE. 217 
 
 safety from the flames. Oiie of llie poor fellows, 
 whrn using liis best endeavours to save the building, 
 had a quantity of nielted lead down his throat, and 
 died in twelve days after, when the lead found in his 
 stomach weighed seven ounces. 
 
 The door of tliis ingenious piece of architecture is 
 only the size of a ship's gun-port, and the windows 
 are mere loop-holes, denying light, to exclude wind. 
 When the tide swells above the foundation of the 
 building, the light-house makes the odd appearance 
 of a structure emerging from the waves. But some- 
 times a wave rises above tlie very top of it, and cir- 
 cling round the whole, l()(As like a column of water, 
 till it breaks into foam, and subsides. 
 
 Four men have the charge of this important bea- 
 con, and are relieved by turns every six weeks, two 
 by two; they are supplied with salted i)rovisions as 
 if for a voyage, as very frequently a boat cannot ap- 
 proach for a long period, owing to the roughness of 
 the weather. 
 
 Next to the light-house, the noble Breakwater, 
 now nearly finished, will be highly instrumental in 
 making Hymouth Sound itself a basin, compared 
 with its former dangerous situation. Here the wea- 
 ther-beaten ships of any size, may run and venture to 
 bring up, even with a last anchor. 
 
 The writer of this, in a gale from south south-west 
 right in, in the month of October 1815, had the plea- 
 sure of witnessing the desirable effect produced by 
 the new Breakwater, when ships, to use a sea j)hrase, 
 which would formerly have " been riding bows under," 
 were rising gently on the swelling billow, and nil 
 with safety ai.d comfort rode out the gale. 
 
 The singularly delightful views which burst on the 
 sight in a hue morning on opening Plymouth Sound, 
 are so varied, picturesque, and beautiful, as to strike 
 with surprise every mind capable of reflection. 
 They pass that lovely mount, O Edgcumbc, thine ! • 
 Whose varied charms in rich profusion shiae, 
 U
 
 213 TOPOGRAPHICAL DESCllIPTION' OF 
 
 Gladtlening the e)e, where Nature leagues with art, 
 Unrivall'd "scenes of beauty to impart. 
 
 Au e\e\ft\ni pier and alight-house wiil be erected on 
 the solid and imperishable base of the massive stones 
 laid for this purpose, and the whole will probably re- 
 main a lastin<; memorial, worthy of the nation and 
 the age. 
 
 The occaiiot\ of this stupendous national work 
 originated in a frequent observation made by the late 
 Lord Howe, " that this bay would one day be the 
 grave of the British Navy, trom its exposed situation." 
 From this, and the consideration that Plymouth pos- 
 sessed advantages superior to any port on the south- 
 w'cst coast of England for assembling or ecjuipping a 
 fleet, or uatclnng the French marine at Brest, it was 
 determined to make Plymouth Sound, at whatever 
 expence it might involve, a safe road-stead for forty 
 shipg of war, at least. At the suggestion of Lord 
 St. Vincent, in 1806, the most eminent engineers 
 were employed to ascertain the possibility of carrying 
 this plan into efTect. Nothing however was done till 
 Mr. Yorke presided at the Board of Admiralty, when 
 various plans were proposed for sheltering the Sound. 
 One was, to throw a pier from Staddon Point to the 
 Panther Rock, of 2600 yards in length; another, to 
 construct a pier from Andurn Point to the Panther, 
 of 2900 yards; and a third, to carry a pier from the 
 same point to the Shovel Rock, being only 900 yards. 
 Objections were urged against throwing out piers 
 from any of these points, as they might change the 
 current, and create new depositions of mud and chan- 
 nel, and make the harbour unfit for large ships. 
 
 On these considerations, Messrs. Rennie and 
 Whidby proposed that an insulated pier, or Break- 
 water, should be thrown across the middle of the en- 
 trance into the Sound, having its eastern extremity 
 about sixty fathoms to the eastward of St. Carlo's 
 Rock, and its western end about 300 fathoms west of 
 {.he ShoveJ, the whole length being 1700 yardj^, or
 
 DEVOSllIUE. S19 
 
 nearly a mile. They proposed the middle part of 
 the Breakwater to be carried in a straight line for 
 the length of 1000 yards, wiili a bend at each end 
 towards tlie entrance of the harbour, with a view of 
 allowing the ^reat flow of water inwards, to pa>iS with 
 less violence, as well as create a kind of circle, 
 within which the !5hij>s might lie with greater safely. 
 
 Tiie pl;rn rccoin'.nL'nded and adopted for the con- 
 btruction of the work, was to heap together promiscu- 
 ously large blocks of" stones, which were to be sunk in 
 the line of the intended Breakwater, leaving them to 
 find their own basis and take tiieir own position. Stones 
 weighing n ton and a half eac h, were deemed sutlici- 
 ently large to keep their places against the prodigious 
 swell to wjiich they were to be constantly exposed. 
 Where the water is from five fathoms, or thirty feet 
 deep, the base of the Breakwater is seventy yards 
 broad, at the summit ten yards, and a height of ten 
 feet above the low water of an ordinary spring tide; 
 thus the din^ensions of the Breakwater, in these parts, 
 arc 'iiO feet wide at the foundation, SO feet across 
 the top, and 40 t'eet in height from the bottom. The 
 rough estiniate for completing a Breakwater and pier 
 for the sheltering of Plymouth Sound, and Buuvisand 
 B;w, is as follows : 
 
 £ s. d. 
 2,000,000 tons of limestone, in'^ 
 
 kit ( 
 
 blocks from U to 2 tons weight C ^ ^ ^ ^ 
 
 each, tor the gre?^ Mr^n,i.„.ntr.r / » 
 
 at 7s. Cd. per ton 
 
 each, for the great Breakwater, { 
 
 360,000 tons in the pier proposed ^ 
 
 to be built from Andurn I'oint, J 126,000 
 
 at 7s. 3 
 
 Contingencies, say at 20 per cent. ) ^^ . ^^^ q q 
 
 on tl»e whole ) "' 
 
 Total for tiic great Breakwater •• 1,051,^00 
 
 U2
 
 220 TOPOGRAPHICAL DESCRIPTION OF 
 
 Estimate of the probable Expcnce of Cut-stone Pier, and 
 two Light-houses, to be built on the top of the great 
 Breakwater. 
 
 X s. d. 
 
 42,000 cubic yards of masonry, in ^ 
 
 the out and inside walls of the > 44,700 
 
 pier, at 27^'. 3 
 
 62,000 cubic yards of rubble-filiing, ^ 
 
 between the out and inside > 18,C00 
 
 walls, at 65. j 
 
 Paving the top of the pier with large i 
 
 blocks of stone, 8500 square > 22,950 
 
 yards j 
 
 Two light-houses, with reflectors ) -^„^ ^ -, 
 
 J " 1 1 > 5000 
 
 and argand hunps S 
 
 Contingencies, 20 per cent. 28,G50 
 
 119,900 
 Breakwater 1,051,200 
 
 Total estimate of completing the > -, i-, ^r.n, n. ^ 
 works \... s^'^^^'^^^ " " 
 
 The different kinds of machinery employed in this 
 stupendous work, are worth the attention of the 
 tourist; he will find much gratification on inspecting 
 the various applications of skill and labour in forming 
 this immense rocky mass, to resist one of Nature's 
 most powerful elements. 
 
 The Breakwater was begun in 1812, under the di- 
 rection of Mr. Joseph Whidby. The whole is ex- 
 pected to be finished about the end of 1825. It is 
 situated seaward from the Citadel of Plymouth, 180 
 fathoms, with a good channel to sea, at either end, 
 for the largest ships at any time of tide; and when 
 completed, as before ob'jerved, will make a good 
 harbour for forty sail of the line, besides many smaller 
 ships. The average depth of water on the line where 
 the Breakwater is placed, is 36 feet at low-water
 
 devoxsiiihe. 221 
 
 spl-inn-lide* : il l>ns a slope to seawards of 22° from 
 ihu liorizoiittU line, and ouu of 33' lowurda ihe land. 
 
 Oil llie ctvst side of the bay, at Slaudon Point, 
 another pier is building, for the purpose of watering 
 ships of war; and at a small distance inland, is a re- 
 servoir, coritaining 12,0UO tons of water, which is occa- 
 sionally carried in [)ipe5 to the pier, and thengc con- 
 veyed to ships at anchor in the Sound. 
 
 To visit the lircakwater, u is nrcessiiry to proceed 
 to the Barbican Pier, where a boat may be hired to 
 the Breakwater for two siiiliings; and if the voyage 
 \h.' extended to Bovey Sand, the usual additional price 
 will be one shilling. Wiih a favourable wind and tide, 
 after a voyage of about three miles, we may disem- 
 bark at the fanding-place constructed near the centre 
 of the Breakv\ater, and projectini^ in a northerly di- 
 it-clion. 
 
 No birangvr cau visit this stupendous work, with 
 out being impressed with feeliugs of admiration at 
 ihe boldness of the plan, and the felicity of itsexccti- 
 tion. In defiance of natural oltstacles of the mcjst 
 formidable character, we behold this mighty bulwark 
 ribing above the waters, aiul ^uccLSstiilly breasting tlie 
 waves of the Atlantic. When wc thus see an im- 
 mense ridge, apparently as firm as if planted by 
 the hand of Nature, and its duration and stability 
 marked by the marine plants that covers iis sides, we 
 are furnished with an example of human daring, 
 greater than any that could have called forth the ex- 
 clamation of the lloinan satirist. 
 
 Near the reservoir, is the residence of the superin- 
 tendant of the Breakwater establishment. It is a 
 modern iiouse, delightfully situated on a pleasant 
 lawn, sheltered by the surrounding bills, and com- 
 manding a full view of the Breakwater, the >ound, 
 Cawsand Bay, and the opp.isite shore. 
 
 The inns, libraries, »S:c. at Plymouth are numeroHs. 
 In OKI Town is the stand for the carnages, commonly 
 called Dil/its, which run between Plvmoufh and Dock, 
 
 I :;
 
 22'i TOPOGRAPHICAL DESCRIPTION OF 
 
 and which are occasionally hired as post-chaises for 
 short journies. 
 
 Bathing-machines are kept on the beach at Sandy- 
 cove, Mill-bay, and at Catdown, for public acconnmo- 
 dation. The vigour and comfort resulting from the 
 salubrious practice of bathing, cause them to be much 
 frequented during the season, which commences on 
 the first of May, and continues till the end of October. 
 This is also applicable to the bathing-machines at 
 Dock. 
 
 The commercial speculations of Plymouth are not 
 connnensurate with the extent and population of the 
 port; but, as it has been before observed, the esta- 
 blishment of a chamber of commerce has been pro- 
 ductive of increased ardour in difterent branches of 
 trade, and vve trust it will extend its beneficial in- 
 fluence. Ships have been fitted out for the South-Sea 
 Whale Fishery, and the attention of speculators has 
 been directed to the home fisheries, which were much 
 neglected in time of war. Pilchards, which in the 
 reigns of Elizabeth and James I. formed the principal 
 trade of Plymouth, have again been exported in large 
 quantities ; and, although the scarcity of fish during 
 the last three years, has operated as a discouragement 
 to many, yet we may hope, that succeeding abundant 
 seasons will indemnify the speculators for past losses; 
 and that this important branch of commerce will con- 
 tinue to receive the attention it deserves. 
 
 The principal manufactories are Messrs. Gill and 
 Co.'s soap manufactory at Mill-bay ; Mr. Welsford's in 
 Drake's-place, and Messrs. Ilammett, Prance and Co.'s 
 Old Towii-without, for the manufacture of sailcloth; 
 Messrs. Suttill and Co. for lines, twine, and thread, in 
 Mill-street; Messrs. Mare's iron foundry, George's- 
 lane; and the manufactory of coarse earthenware, at 
 Coxside. 
 
 We have noticed the rapid improvements that have 
 taken place in the arts of architecture and painting, 
 within a few years at Plymouth. Sculpture, as may
 
 DEVOJfSUIRE. 223 
 
 be expected, does not rise above the usual level to 
 which it generally attains in provincial towns. Islusic, 
 though much cultivated as a private amusement, en- 
 joys a small portion of public patronage, the receipts 
 of concerts seldom producing sutiicient to remunerate 
 the protessort. A Philharmonic Society has lately 
 l)ecn established by a number of gentlemen, whose 
 meetings are held at stated periods in the hall of the 
 AtheniBum. 
 
 Besides a number of vessels in the coasting and 
 coal trades at Dock, there are ships belonging to the 
 principal merchants, employed in trading to the Me- 
 (htcrrancan, North America, &:c. Mutton Cove and 
 North Corner are the only public quays, where these 
 traders take in, and discharge their cargoes. Here 
 porters, draymen, and carmen, resort for employment, 
 which they chiefly derive from the carriage of coals 
 landed at the quays. Watermen ply here in great 
 imuibers, particularly in time of war, when their 
 wherries are in constant requisition to convey persons 
 to the ships of war, Millbrook, &c. The ferry, which 
 was originally estabUshed between Cremill or Crim- 
 hill point and :\Iount Edgcumbe, continues to retain 
 the appellation of Crimhill ferry, although the boats 
 have been long since removed to Mutton Cove. A 
 boat for the conveyance of vehicles and horses, and 
 two boats for foot-passengers, are employed at this 
 ferry ; and, although frequent complaints are made of 
 inattention on the part of the ferrymen, passengers 
 cannot remedy this inconvenience by hiring what is 
 called a shore-boat, without being obliged to submit 
 to the impost of paying the fares of the ferry, in ad- 
 dition to the remuneration given to the waterman. 
 
 There are many other objects in this neighbour- 
 hood which may afford some pleasure in the survey. 
 The first is Whitsand Bay, a very large, but shoal in- 
 let, the bottom of which is a fine sand. Sharrow Grot, 
 which is on its beach, is a cave hewn out of a rock by 
 the proper manual exertions of a gentleman of the name 
 of Lugger, which toil was richly repaid by its curing
 
 224 TOPOGRAPHICAL DESCKIPTIGN OF 
 
 him of the gout; decidedly proving the superiority o( 
 labour, in this disease, over medicine. Tliere is a 
 table and stone seats in the grot, and several obser- 
 vations in verse on its sides. 
 
 Millbrook, a small town at the head of the lake of 
 that name, in the Hamoaze, once flourished greatly 
 by its fisheries; and we are told, sent members to 
 Parliament. At present it is in a low, but re\iving 
 condition. Near Millbrook, on a hill called South 
 Down, is an extensive brewery, whence his Majesty's 
 vessels are supplied with beer. Near Millbrook, in 
 another creek of Hamoaze, is St. John's, a parish and 
 village in rather a dreary situation, containing about 
 twenty houses. The only thing worthy of notice, is 
 its neat parsonage-house and adjoining grounds. 
 
 About a mile from St, John's, lies Anthony Church 
 Town. 
 
 The church is n neat building, with a tower and 
 good set of bells ; in it are some monuments of llie 
 Carew family, who are interred here. 
 
 The village consists of about 250 houses and 1800 
 inhabitants. When arrived at this place, the pedes- 
 trian will find himself in the road toTorpoint, situated 
 immediately opposite to Morice Town, which, from 
 an inconsiderable village, has risen to some conse- 
 quence in the neighbourhood, being inhabited by se- 
 veral respectable families, chiefly belonging to the 
 Navy. A regular ferry has been established from 
 this place to Morice Town, and it contains two meet- 
 ing houses, the largest of which belongs to the Me- 
 thodists ; but a Chapel of tlie Establishment, and a 
 market, are essentially necessarv to render it conve- 
 nient, as the parish-church (Anthony) is three miles 
 distant, and the inhabitants are obliged to purchase 
 the chief part of their victuals at Dock. A little 
 higher up, is Thanckes, the seat of Lady Graves, 
 widow of Admiral Lord Graves, who was born ther^. 
 Thanckes is a large brick-house, surrounded by low 
 trees, and stands near the margin of a small bay, 
 which is nearly dry at ebb tide. The estate hns^
 
 DEvoNSiiinc. 22j 
 
 been in the possession of the present family above a 
 century. 
 
 Between Torpoint and Thanckes are some pleasant 
 houses, with fine iiardens, called Gravesend, and on 
 ilie right side of the river is Keyham Ma^zine, with 
 convenient wharfs, fctoreiiouses, and dwellings for the 
 odict rs. 
 
 After iiaving been thus dilTuse in our description of 
 FMymouth, in addition to what has been said of tlie 
 little j)ort and town of Topsham in page 92, it is 
 nece^sary to remark, that the latter consists princi- 
 pally of one long irregular street, chiefly bordering on 
 the east bank of the Kxe. 
 
 The greatest number of houses are ancient, and 
 inferior to those on the strand. Tlie church stands 
 nearly in the centre, on a higii cliiF, commanding 
 some very fine scenery. The quay is spacious and 
 convenient, and now belongs to the chamber of 
 Exeter, of which Topsham is the port: here vessels 
 exceeding 200 tons burthen, are obliged to anchor; 
 their cargoes being conveyed to Kxeter by smaller 
 craft. The chief business carried on is ship-bnilding. 
 The market is held on Saturday. 
 
 At Salti-ani, near IMymouth, is tlie scat of the Earl 
 of Morley. This mansion is said to be the largest in 
 the county, covering an area of 135 feet by 170. Ihe 
 principal suite of apartments is on the ground floor, 
 which are elegantly fitted up and adorned with an 
 extensive and valuable collection of pictures. The 
 upper apartments are highly embellished with drawings 
 and portraits ; and the grounds possess singular at- 
 tractions, an extensive diversity of landscape and massy 
 wood, Plymouth Sound, the town, citadel, Mount 
 Edgcuinbe, the sea and harbour, with its endless 
 variety of amusement. A bold irregularity of surface 
 characterizes the grounds, and renders the variety 
 unceasing. The interior of Saltram corresponds with 
 its exterior in appearance and interest. 
 
 Eight miles further is Ivy Bridge^ a pretty little 
 village beautifully situated in a romantic dell, at the
 
 5226 TOPOGKAl'HICAL DE'fCRIPTION OF 
 
 bottom of which runs the river Ernie. This place 
 derives its name from the bridge vvitli one arch, covei-ed 
 witli ivy. The impetuous mountain torrent that rushes 
 through it, after forming various cascades, and dashing 
 through many rocky chiisms overhung with fine mossy 
 woods and straggling roots and trunks, passes on to 
 the English Channel. 
 
 Five miles from hence is Brent, a small town on 
 tlie river Aven ; and about five miles farther is 
 
 BucKFASTLEiGH, a large village, built upon the 
 scite, and in a great measure with the materials from 
 the ruins of an ancient abbey, founded in this parish 
 by Ethehvardus, son of William Pomerai, during the 
 reign of Henry I. and endowed with revenues by 
 Richard Banzan, which must have been considerable, 
 being rated at the dissolution at 46(3/. lU. 2d. 
 
 Two miles and a half from hence we arrive at Ash- 
 burton, which, according to Doomsday Book, be- 
 longed to the king, and subsequently it appears to 
 have been possessed by the Bishops of Exeter; to one 
 of whom. Bishop Stapledon, it is indebted for its 
 weekly market and annual fair; the grant of which 
 was procured by him in the early part of the reign of 
 Edward III. The town consists chietly of one long 
 street, upon the high road from London to Plymouth. 
 The river Dart is only half a mile distant. The ma- 
 nufacture of serge to a very considerable extent is 
 carried on here ; and a market held once a week for 
 the sale of wool and yarn. Tlie church is a hand- 
 some building, with a tower ninety feet high, termi- 
 nated by a small spire. The chancel coi»tains several 
 stalls, the same as in collegiate churches ; and in one 
 part is a curious memorial, recording, that in the year 
 1754, the representatives of the borough " chose to 
 express their thanks to their constituents bv pur- 
 diasing an estate for educating the boys of the bo- 
 rough," an example of patriotism which we believe 
 has never been followed. An ancient building, which 
 before the Reformation was a chapel or chantry, ad- 
 joins the churcl), and is now appropriated to the use
 
 DEVONbUIKE. 227 
 
 of the grammar-scljool, and also as the place of elec- 
 tion of the representatives in parliament, and other 
 public business relating to the town. 
 
 Ashburton is an ancient borough by prescription, 
 and was constituted a stannary-town by charter of 
 Edward I. It appears to have sent representatives 
 to parliament, for the first time, in the 26th year of 
 the reign of this monarch, and not again until the 8th 
 of Henry IV.; it then omitted the exercise of this 
 privilege until the year 1640, when it was resumed. 
 
 Ashburton is one of the neatest towns in Devon- 
 shire. 1'he scenery on the banks of the Dart, a few 
 miles from the town, is some of the most picturesque 
 in the county, more particularly about Duckland, the 
 seat (jf Mrs. Bastard. Spitchwick is the seat of Lord 
 Ashburton, and Ilolne Chase the beautiful and ro- 
 mantic huming seat of Sir Bourchier Wray. Some 
 enjinent men have been educated in Ashburton School. 
 Some of the finest Devonshire marbles are obtained 
 at Bickington, near Ashburton. The right of voting 
 is possessed by about 200 persons, the proprietors of 
 certain frceh<j4ds within the borough : the number of 
 votes, therefore, is merely nominal and fluctuating, 
 according to the change ot'the property which confers 
 the right. The chief officer of the town is the por- 
 treeve, who is chosen annually at the court-leet and 
 baron of the lords of the manor. 
 
 A curious incident happened here, about fifty years 
 since, at the house of Mrs. Aldridge, called the New 
 Inn, and is thus related in Polwhele's history of 
 Devonshire. " In an underground cellar, a dish of 
 Wembury oysters was laid, by way of coolness. At 
 the time when the tide flows, it is well known oysters 
 open their shells to admit the waters, and take their 
 food. At this period a large oyster had expanded its 
 jaws, and at the same moment two mice, searching for 
 prey, pounced at once on the victim, and seized it 
 with their teeth. The oyster shrinking at the wound, 
 closed its shell, collapsing with such force as to crush 
 fhe marauders to death. The oyster, with the two
 
 228 TOPOCHAPHICAL DESCRIPTION OF 
 
 mice dangling from its shell, was for a long time ex- 
 hibited as a curiosity, by the landlady, to her tjuests. 
 A similar circumstance of an oyster clasping a mouse 
 with its shell, has been recorded in one of the Epi- 
 grams of the Greek Anthology. 
 
 The Logan or Rocking Stone at this place is the 
 only one extant in the county, except that in the 
 parish of Drewsteignton. This is formed on a carneed 
 of moor-stone rocks on the downs in the neighbour- 
 hood of Ashburton, and though the exact balance is 
 now in a great degree destroyed, was so equipoised a 
 few years since, as to have been an amusing instru- 
 ment for cracking nuts. It now retains, and is known 
 by no other name than the Nut-crackers. Tiie new 
 road from Ashburton to Tavistock runs across Dart- 
 moor. Two Bridges is twelve miles from the former, 
 and eight from the latter. 
 
 Dartmoor prison is situated on the spot where the 
 road from Plymouth to INIoreton and Chagford inter- 
 sect tl:e former rond. In fact, Dartmoor prison is a 
 mile and a half from Two Bridges, lying out of the 
 road about a quarter of a mile on the left. 
 
 Spitchwick, Lord Ashburton's mansion and park, is 
 about four miles from Ashburton on this road. 
 
 Dartmoor was, according to Polwhele, once peopled ; 
 and from the remains of rude habitations, a colony 
 seems to have been placed near Westman's Wood, 
 which an old author has called a forest of a hundred 
 trees, a hundred feet high : this spot now contains the 
 roots of large trees : it was certainly held sacred from 
 the felling blow of the axe when preserved by Isabella 
 de Fortibus, the founder of Ford Abbey, but no re- 
 cord remains to mark when it was subsequently de- 
 stroyed. This is not the only proof that the term 
 Forest of Dartmoor is applicable to this wide waste, 
 as large trunks of trees have often been dug out in 
 draining the bogs; and in these wilds formerly ranged 
 the wild boar, the bear, the wolf, and the moose deer, 
 for the chase of which a particular species of hound 
 called the slow hound, (known only of late years at
 
 DEVONSHIRE. 229 
 
 Mancbcstei), was employed. In Wanley there is a 
 curious account of winged serpents in the low, and 
 wolves in the high lands, and a set of wild men in- 
 habiting the verge of this great waste, who in swiftness 
 could outstrip a horse — even in traditions, that abound 
 in the marvellous, there is ahvavs some sprinkling of 
 truth. However, the history of Dartmoor is by no 
 means clear, till we find that it was granted by King 
 John to the Earl of Cornwall, which grant was con- 
 firmed, and the moor bounded by Henry the Third. 
 
 The common peat of Dartmoor is used for fuel ; 
 the bl;\ck wood, or vegetable substance, a combination 
 of roots, leaves, and earth, found under the peat, after 
 being dried and charred, is used by the smiths to 
 temper their tools. 
 
 The ancient tracts on Dartmoor were marked with 
 vast rocks of p,ranite, but now a turnpike-road is cut 
 tlirongh it, which promises the greatest benefit to this 
 part of the county; and it is also said to be the in- 
 tention of government, to convert the late prison on 
 Dartmoor into a receptacle for convicts, instead of 
 confining them on board the hulks. 
 
 Dartmoor Forest is in fact a large tract of waste 
 land, 80,000 acres in extent, presenting a constant 
 succession of commons, torrs, and rivers, of which the 
 Dart is the most considerable. The commencement 
 of the improvement of this vast waste began a few 
 years since, when Mr. Tyrwhilt, vice-warden of the 
 Stannaries, inclosed and cultivated a considerable part 
 of the moor, and built an elegant house on it for his 
 residence. 
 
 Torr-Royal, or Prince Town, also built within a few 
 years, contains an extensive prison of war, large bar- 
 racks for the soldiery, and suitable houses for the 
 officers, ^c. The prisons are inclosed by a circular 
 wall, and some idea of its extent may be formed from 
 the circumstance of the watch-word from the centinels 
 being a quarter of an hour in passing round it, when, 
 according to the regulation, it becomes necessary to 
 
 A
 
 230 TOPOGRAPHICAL DtSCrtlPTIOK 01 
 
 recommence, so that it may be said to be constantly 
 passing. The barracks are also inclosed, but sepa- 
 rately from the prison. Some of the torra are so high 
 as to form good land-marks, though above twenty 
 miles distant from the sea-coast. 
 
 The principal part of Prince Town was built in 
 consequence of the erection of this prison ; but having 
 lost this attraction for persons in ditferent branches of 
 trade since the peace of 1314, many of its dwellings 
 are now deserted. Dartmoor prison consists of seven 
 distinct buildings of two stories in each, for the ham- 
 mocks of the prisoners, and a large loft over for exer- 
 cise, in inclement weather. Adjoining is the hospital 
 with spacious and airy wards, dispensary, &c., and a 
 very complete cooking-house and laundry. The lofty 
 wall, which surrounds all the buildings, forms a circle 
 nearly a mile in circumference, and incloses an area 
 of thirty acres. The great gate, on the western side, 
 is arched over with immense blocks of granite, on 
 which is engraved the appropriate inscription, " Parce 
 suDJECTis." Immediately opposite is the ample re- 
 servoir, from which the whole establishment is sup- 
 plied with water. The prison has-been known to 
 contain 9600 men at one time, and the barracks ad- 
 joining are well adapted to the accommodation of a 
 number of troops. A neat church has been recently 
 erected at Prince Town, where service is performed 
 every Sunday. Torr-Royal, the occasional residence 
 of Sir Thomas Tyrwhitt, is situated south of the town; 
 about this mansion some plantations have been reared, 
 and a portion of cultivated land redeemed from the 
 surrounding waste. The new iron rail-way from Prince 
 Town to Plymouth, promises well for improving the 
 sterile district through which the land passes, by the 
 importation of culm, sea-sand, town dung, &c. for the 
 purposes of manure. It is also intended to make the 
 road subservient to the carriage of agricultural pro- 
 duce to Plymouth market. The money for this under- 
 taking was raised by subscription in shares of 2o/.
 
 DEVONSHIRE. 231 
 
 ench, unci ilie subscribers coustituce a company, whose 
 olhcc-, fur the dispatch of business, is at the Exchange 
 at IMvniuntlu 
 
 hi reference to rlie French prison here, during the 
 hue war, in the Prize Poem of Dartn)Oor, written by 
 Mrs. Henian, it is observed : 
 
 " Tvvas then llie captives of Britannia's war, 
 
 Here for their lovely suutliern clinics afar, 
 
 In bondage pin'd ; the spell-deluded throng, 
 
 Drajig'd at Ambition's chariot-wiicels so long, 
 
 To die; because q despot could not clasp 
 
 A Sceptre fitted to liis boundless grasp ; 
 
 Ves, they whose march had rock'd the ancient thrones 
 
 And temples of the world ; the deepening toiieo 
 
 (Jf whose advancing trumpet from repose, 
 
 Had startled nations, wakening in their woes; 
 
 ^Ve^e prisoners here, and tliere were some, whose 
 
 dreams 
 Were of sweet homes by chainless mountain streams, 
 And of the vine-clad hills, and many u strain. 
 Of festal melody of Loire ai'.d Seine ; 
 And of those mothers who had watch'd and wept, 
 When on the ficUl th' unsheltered conscript slept, 
 Bath'd with the midni};hl dews. And some were there 
 Of sterner 6pirit:i, hardened by despair. 
 And tiierc was mirth too, strange and savage mirth, 
 More fearful fur than all the woes of earth.'' 
 
 The proprietors of the Dartmoor rail-road, it is 
 understood, will certainly reap the reward which they 
 are entitled to by their enterprising spirit. Such is 
 the actual state nl the work, ns to admit the vending 
 of the minor productions of this valuable waste. Forty 
 tliousiind tons of shipping will be required for sup- 
 plying the first year's contract of granite to the metro- 
 polis alone; n fact at once calculated to excite emula- 
 tion in ship-owners, and cherish the exi)ectations of 
 the labouring community. 
 
 On a common in the vicinity of Dartmoor, among 
 a number of earns or series of granite rocks, heaped 
 X 2
 
 232 TOPOGRAPHICAL DESCRIPTION OF 
 
 naturally one on another, there is one of an oblate 
 form, se'rving as a cap to others, which is of a singular 
 and curious appearance; its surface is rather gibbous, 
 swelling into little inequalities, and is in four different 
 places scooped out into cells of various forms: these 
 are all indisputably the effects of art, and seem to have 
 been intended for reservoirs to retain a liquid, thjjt 
 falling on the superfices of the stone, was to have run 
 through grooves or channels that appear to have been 
 cut in it, in an undulating direction. The sides of 
 them all are rounded, and diverging from the margin, 
 are well adapted to the more ready reception of what- 
 ever was poured on the stone, whether the blood of a 
 victim, or water for the lustration of the surrounding 
 people. It is evident, that when temples had been 
 erected, and when the arts had introduced a variety 
 of conveniences, with altars plated with iron, and 
 brazen vases all substituted instead of the rude mass 
 of stone and excavated basin, human victims were 
 offered in many parts of Europe. Besides, this was a 
 service well adapted to such wild and gloomy recesses 
 as the vicinity of Dartmoor in remote ages. In cor- 
 roboration of the wild state of this part of the county, 
 Mr. Lysons estimates the mean height of Dartmoor at 
 178^ feet; the highest point is supposed to be 2090 
 feet. 
 
 *' The general character of a great proportion of the 
 county is a continued succession of hills of the same, 
 or nearly the same height. This circumstance, and 
 the lofty banks and hedges by which they are flanked 
 in, render most of the Devonshire high roads very 
 tedious and unpleasant to the traveller. From the 
 continued succession of such hills, the views must 
 necessarily be bounded in general by the top of the 
 adjoining hill; perhaps a mile distant more interesting 
 views may occasionally occur ; it is then totally ob- 
 structed by the hedges. This has long been the cha- 
 racter of the Devon roads. Westcote observed, near 
 ^00 years since, that numerous as they were, a man 
 might travel through the countVj without seeing a
 
 E)KVOXSHlRE
 
 DEVOKSIIIHE. 2J3 
 
 flock of sheq), except on Dartmoor, or such open 
 districts." 
 
 On the prese-nt prospects of cultivation and im- 
 provement, the poem of Mrs. Heman before quoted, 
 contains these lines : 
 
 Yes ! let the waste lift up th' exulting voice. 
 
 Let the far echoing solitudes rejoice ! 
 
 And thou, lone moor, where no blythe reaper's song, 
 
 E'er lightly spad the summer hours along; 
 
 Bid ttie wild rivers from each mountain source, 
 
 Rushing in joy, make music in their course. 
 
 Thou, whose few records of existence mark, 
 
 TTie scene of barbVous rites in ages dark. 
 
 And of some nameless combat : Hope's bright eye, 
 
 Beams o'er thee in the light of prophesy! 
 
 Yet shall thou smile, by busy culture dress'd, 
 
 And the rich harvest wave upon thy breast. 
 
 Thee too that hour shall bless the balmy close, 
 
 Of labour's day, the herald of repose, 
 
 Which gathers hearts in peace. 
 
 About a mile and a half before we come to Chud- 
 
 leigh is Whitezcay, the seat of Parker, Eso. 
 
 Many other beautiful villas are scattered round Chuff- 
 leigh, which is about ten miles from Ashburton. The 
 former is a small neat town, for wtiich a weekly mar^ 
 ket and two annual fairs were obtained by the liisliops 
 of Exeter, who formerly had a magnificent palace in 
 the neighbourhood, of which there are still some re- 
 mains. The country immediately about Chudleigh lias 
 been famous for its cyder and orchards. 
 
 Chudleigh was many years since nearly destroyed 
 by fire, but was soon rebuilt, and improved. 
 
 Chudleigh Church, which stands at the western 
 extremity ofthe town, is a small white-washed build- 
 ing, with a spire rising from an embattled tower. The 
 cott^es and scenery about it present a very rural 
 aspect, and the interior contains gome monumenu of 
 the Courtenay family. 
 
 ' X3
 
 234 TOPOGRAPHICAL DESCRIPTION OF 
 
 Chudleigh Rock, about half a mile from the town, 
 is one of the most imposing in the island : viewed 
 from the west, it exhibits a broad, bold, and almost 
 perpendicular front, apparently one solid mass of 
 marble;- from the south-east, a hollow opens to the 
 view, with an impetuous stream rushing over the rude 
 stones, which foams and whirls its eddies all around. 
 From the highest part of the rock the scenery is com- 
 posed of fine hanging woods, and in some places the 
 branches of the oak form a canopy for the contem- 
 plative spectator. Mid-way down the cliff, is a large 
 cavern, the gloomy recesses of which, according to 
 the tradition of the country people, are inhabited by 
 pixies or fairies. The entrance to this cavern is by an 
 arch ten feet high and twelve wide. For the space of 
 twenty yards the passage is the same, when it sud- 
 denly diminishes to about half the size, and continues 
 decreasing about fifteen yards farther, when it ex- 
 pands into a spacious chamber, which divides itself 
 into two parts, and runs oflf in different directions, 
 neither of which can be traced far, owing to the drop- 
 ping of the rock. It is reported, that a dog put into 
 one of them, came out at Botter rock, about three 
 miles distant. 
 
 The country in the vicinity is remarkably romantic, 
 particularly on the left of the town towards Exeter, 
 on estates formerly belonging to the families of the 
 Eastchurches and Rennels ; the latter were the an- 
 cestors of the present Major Rennel, the celebrated 
 geographer of the East Indies. 
 
 Inns at Chudleigh: Clifford's Arms, and Roses 
 Inn. A small manufactory of serges is carried on 
 here. 
 
 Ugbrook is two miles on the road to Sandy-gate, 
 the beautiful seat of Lord Clifford. This superb man- 
 sion is situated on the deiclivity of an eminence; its 
 form is quadrangular, with two fronts and four tow- 
 ers, with battlements rough-casted. The apartments 
 are exceedingly spacious, elegant, and most superbly
 
 DEVONSHIRE. £35 
 
 decorated, assisted by a valuable collection of pic- 
 tures; the library contains an ample and choice col- 
 lection of books, both ancient and modern. 
 
 The state bed-room at Ugbrook is hung with a 
 bluish-coloured silk damask, and the curtains are of 
 the same description. These were exquisitely wrought 
 in needle-work, with birds, flowers, and fruit, under 
 the direction of a Duchess of Norfolk. In a poem, 
 descriptive of Ugbrook, the decorations of this cele- 
 brated bed are thus elegantly described : 
 
 See, on the silken ground how Flora pours 
 Her various dyes, an opulence of flowers; 
 How blended with the foliage of the rose. 
 And rich carnation, the streak'd tulip glows : 
 The downy peach and curling vine appear 
 With all the treasures of the purple year. 
 Pois'd on her velvet plumes of vivid green, 
 The paroquet here animates the scene. 
 ■ With half expanded wing here sits the dove 
 In rising attitude; intent above 
 She turns her eye, where on extended wings. 
 Thro' fields of air her lively consort springs. 
 With yellow crest the cockatoos unfold 
 Their milky plumige, stain'd with tints of gold. 
 Here, fresh as lift, in all their glory drest. 
 The bold macaws display the scarlet breast, 
 The painted neck of variegated hue. 
 And glossy wings of bright cerulean blue. 
 
 The surrounding grounds are upwards of seven miles 
 in circumference. The approach to the house from 
 a turnpike road, winds through a space of near half 
 a mile, and includes a beautiful intermixture of wood, 
 rock, lawn, and water. On an eminence in these 
 grounds, are the remains of a Danish encampment, of 
 an elliptic shape,surrounded by a trench, and overhung 
 by majestic oaks. A fine prospect is opened on this hill. 
 
 Continuing our journey, at the distance of about 
 thirteen rtiiles from Chudleigh, after passing through 
 Exeter, we arrive at Ckediton, an ancient and po-
 
 236 TOPOGRAPHICAL DESCRIPTION OF 
 
 pulous town, divided into two parts, called the East 
 and West. The weekly market, on Saturday, in 
 Brice's time, was inferior to few in the kingdom, (ot 
 meat and yarn. 
 
 Crediton was undoubtedly a place of considerable 
 importance in the Saxon times, as no fewer than 
 twelve bishops had their seat here, between the years 
 924 and 1049, when the see was removed to Exeter. 
 It stands on both sides of the river Greedy, and is di- 
 vided into two parts, called the East and West. The 
 latter was formerly more extensive than at present, 
 upwards of 450 houses having been destroyed by fire 
 in 1743. In 1769, a second fire consumed many 
 buildings, together with the market-house and sham- 
 bles, which have been since rebuilt in a very hand- 
 some manner. The present church is an elegant 
 structure, in the form of a cross : its tower is 100 
 feet high, and is situated in the centre of the build- 
 ing, on a Bemicircular arch, supported by four pillars 
 of uncommon magnitude. The interior is extremely 
 neat; the east and west windows are large, and deco- 
 rated with rich tracery ; and the altar-piece is a most 
 exquisite performance, representing Moses and Aaron 
 sustaining the Decalogue. On ons side of the burial- 
 ground formerly stood the Cathedral ; but no vestiges 
 of it remain. Connected with the chancel, at the 
 east end, is a Sunday-school, and over the south 
 porch a small library. Here is also a charity-school 
 for forty boys and girls. 
 
 The chief manufacture, besides spinning wool, is 
 one for serges, which has been carried on to a consi- 
 derable extent. Vast quantities of wool and yarn 
 have been sold in the market-place. The market is 
 held on Saturday, and well supplied. Houses 1149, 
 inhabitants 5515. 
 
 At Crediton is Creedy-house, the seat of Sir John 
 Davie, Bart. This mansion has two handsome fronts, 
 and is delightfully situated in a large park surrounded 
 by a strong wall. Near this is Fulfovd-park, the seat 
 of J. H. Tuckfield, Esq.
 
 DEVONSUIRE. 237 
 
 (Jii leavini Crediton, we pursue a noitli-westeriy 
 course, and, t the distance of fourteen miles, arrive 
 at TivEUTON,oleasantly situated upon an eminence. 
 Tlie rivers Ex and Lowman run on each side of the 
 town, and unitia Httle below it. Tiverton is the next 
 in consequence.o Exeter. The s;;rrounding country 
 is, perhaps, raot >eautiful than any other part of the 
 north of Devon, nd the town itself the most agfee- 
 ahle to reside in. The name is derived from Twy- 
 fordj or Tico-ford. own^ from the situation between 
 two fords, the Ex<and the Lowman, upon which 
 bridges have long bn erected ; the Exe rises a little 
 above Tiverton, u[n Exmoor, and after a course of 
 about 30 miles, fallinto the sea at Exmouth. 
 
 Tiverton was incrporated by James the First, in 
 1615, and the govament of the town vested in a 
 mayor, twelve capit burgesses, and twelve assistant 
 burgesses, to be chon out of the most discreet and 
 honest inhabitants ohe town and parish. 
 
 The right of retuing the two members to parlia- 
 ment was also grand to the same persons; and in 
 the reign of George fe First another charter was ob- 
 tained, in consequent of the former having, by some 
 neglect, been forfeits, which, in its principles and 
 its most important clfies, is precisely similar to that 
 of James the First. 
 
 The old church beg too small for the number of 
 inhabitants, another lurch was built in a veryhand- 
 .some style of architece, and dedicated to St. George, 
 and rendered a pertual curacy by act of |)arlia- 
 ment. The old chur is a large stone building, and 
 very ancient, and deated to St. Peter. The altar 
 is ornamented with a»ble painting of St. Peter being 
 delivered from prisony angels : it was the gift of the 
 celebrated Mr. Coswtand painted in his best style. 
 He was a native ofthtown, which gave birth also to 
 Mrs. Cowley, the dratic poet, and to the present 
 Alderman Wood, twiLord Mayor of London. 
 
 In Gold-street is silted Greenway's alms-houses
 
 238 TOPOGUAPIIICAL UESCllIPTtO OF 
 
 and chapel; one of tlie poor men is flowed a small 
 additional sum to read prayers at statd times. The 
 building is of stone, and in the fronts the followini; 
 inscription, but which is almost oblitrated : 
 
 " All good people that may pass b, 
 
 " Pray for the soul of John and /cm Gre^nway." 
 
 There is also a chapel attache tJ the old church, 
 founded by this family, and cal'd after their name. 
 Some ancient alms-houses are .■ected in two other 
 parts of this town, and liberally ndowcd. Here are 
 also two presbyterian meeting-hcses, and a Wesleyan 
 chapel. 
 
 But the t;lory of Tiverton is i noble free grammar- 
 school, founded by Peter Blalel, at first a poor 
 clothier, but afterwards a rich trchant. This school 
 was erected in the year l.'jQOibr 150 scholars, and 
 handsomely endowed for the pport of the masters, 
 and exhibitions for scholars to aliol College, Oxford, 
 and Sidney College, Cambrid. The founder used 
 to say, that if he was no schol himself he would be 
 the means of making more scll?>rs, than any scholar 
 in the kingdom. The schoolouse is a fine building, 
 replete with every conveniey; the late Samuel 
 Wesley left his situation in ''estminster-school, to 
 become the head master of lundel's, which he en- 
 joyed until his death. In theont of the gate of the 
 great court is a long inscriptn in brass, relative to 
 its foundation. 
 
 Here is also an English e-school, founded by 
 Robert Comins, or Chilcot, . 1609, and a public 
 charity school, beside a Sunc school. 
 
 The trade of Tiverton wajormerly very great, in 
 the manufacture of serges, diys, druggets, &c.; but 
 for the last fifty years, this de has been gradually 
 declining. A few years sir a cotton factory was 
 established, and last year, ne gentlemen from the 
 North of England, through i riots and destruction 
 of their machinery, came anettled at Tiverton, and
 
 DEVOKsiiinE. 239 
 
 set up their Uictorics : being pleasantly situated, a 
 number of genteel families, with small fortunes, have 
 lately become residents. 
 
 Two markets are kept weekly, on Tuesday and 
 Saturday, which are remarkably well supplied with 
 all sorts of provisions. This town has been very un- 
 fortunate in fires, and almost consumed three times; 
 in 1598, six hundred houses were burnt down; in 
 JC12, the loss was estimated at 35,000/. ; and in 1731, 
 another fire destroyed 200 of the best houses, with 
 several manufactories, to the amount of 160,000/. ; 
 and on Whitsun Kve 1785, between sixty and seventy 
 houses were consumed, and since that, ten houses 
 were burnt in Feter-street. 
 
 . In 1732, an act of parliament was passed for re- 
 building the town, in wliich it was enjoined that the 
 new houses should be covered with lead, slate, or tile, 
 instead of thatch ; that no perilous trade should be 
 carried on in the streets ; no stacks of corn, straw, 
 hay, «S:c. erected there ; that fire engines should be 
 provided airainst similar accidents; that houses should 
 be pulled down, to put a stop to any future fires; and 
 that particular houses should be pulled down for 
 widening the streets and passaces. 
 
 This town is remarkably clean, as a branch of the 
 Lowman is so contrived above the town as to run 
 with a rapid current through each street; the streets 
 being upon the descent, the water is continually run- 
 ning, and this serves the inhabitants for all the do- 
 mestic purposes of life; the superfluous water rejoins 
 the Lowman below the town. 
 
 This town is nearly three quarters of a mile in ex- 
 tent from river to river, and closely built, beside the 
 suburbs. The castle has a commanding appearance, 
 though built in the year 1110. It has withstood many 
 sieges, between contending parties; but suffered much 
 between Cromwell and the Royalists. It is the pro- 
 perty and residence of Sir Thomas Carew, Bart. Ad- 
 joining ilie town, and facing the Exe, isCoUey-Priefct,
 
 240 lOPOGRAPITICAL DESCRIPTION OF 
 
 <;ome years since the seatofJ. Hav, Esq. A navi- 
 gable canal has lately been formed from Holcumbe to 
 Tiverton, a distance of about seven miles, but at pre- 
 sent it is only used for the conveyance of lime for 
 manure. 
 
 Opposite the town is a ridge of hills, called the 
 Shrink-hills, which runs nearly half a mile parallel 
 with the town; and from these hills a panoramic view 
 may be taken of the town, with the Lowman running 
 beneath to join the Exe. 
 
 The town and parish of Tiverton are divided into 
 three portions or rectories, each rector performing the 
 duties of both churches alternately. Adjoining Tiver- 
 ton, on the road to Exeter, is Bickley, rendered re- 
 markable for being the birth-place of Bampfylde Moore 
 Carew, surnamed King of the Beggars; he was bred 
 up at Blundel's school, and reputed a good scholar ; 
 Iiis father was at the time rector of Bickley ; and, 
 although descended from one of the most ancient 
 families in Devon, and allied to others, yet nothing 
 could draw him from a life of mendicity. He died at 
 a great age, and was buried at the adjoining parish 
 ground of Cadleigh, his body not being permitted to 
 be interred in the family vault of the Carews. 
 
 A chalybeate spring, discovered a few years since 
 at Ayshford near Tiverton, has lately been resorted to 
 with eminently beneficial success in various cases of 
 inveterate scrofula, &:c. 
 
 Three miles from Tiverton, on the road to Welling- 
 ton, is the village of Halburton, and two miles further 
 is Sampford Peverel, at both which places .ire ancient 
 stone parish churches. 
 
 Halburton had the misfortune, on the 21st of June 
 1817, to be nearly consumed by fire, on which ac- 
 count subscriptions for the sufferers were solicited in 
 London and other places.
 
 DEVONSHIRE. 241 
 
 Journey from Plymouth to Collumpton; by way of 
 ModOury, KingshrUige, Totyiess, Neuton Bushel, and 
 Exeter. 
 
 On leaving Plymouth, we proceed easterly, and at 
 the distance of five miles, pass through Flywptox, or 
 Plympton Earle, an ancient borough town, situated in 
 a pleasant valley, about one mile south-east of the 
 river Plym. 
 
 This is a market-town, and parish : it consists of 
 two irregular streets, containing about 100 houses and 
 700 inhabitants. The church and Guildhall are an- 
 cient buildings, in the latter of which is a well-endowed 
 free-school, erected in 1664, by Sir John Maynard, 
 one of the trustees of Elizius Hele, Esq. who left 
 1500/. per annum for such purposes. Plympton is 
 well known as the birth-place of that eminent painter 
 Sir Joshua Reynolds, a fine portrait of whom, painted 
 by iiiinsclf, adorns the Guildhall. The town is ex- 
 tremely clean, and four fairs are held in it annually, 
 for cattle, cloth, &c. Plympton is one of the Stannary 
 towns for Devon; it is governed by a mayor, recorder, 
 and seven aldermen, a bailiff, and two Serjeants at 
 mace ; and sends two members to parliament. Some 
 ruins of a castle, which was once the seat of the Earls 
 of Devon, are still to be seen on a hill near the town. 
 
 These, with an artificial mount about seventy feet 
 high and two hundred in circumference, stand on the 
 north side of the town. The fortress included nearly 
 two acres, and was encompassed by a high rampart 
 and a very deep ditch. Some fragments of the castle 
 on the top of the mount are of great thickness. 
 
 Sir Joshua Reynolds, by his illustrious character 
 and abilities, not only shed a lustre on the place of 
 liis nativity, but was the great agent in advancing 
 the arts and artists of England to a rivalship with 
 those of enlightened Greece and Rome. Before the 
 time of Sir Joshua, elegant art was an alien to this 
 country; he naturalized it to the soil, and thus dis- 
 proved' the assertions of Du Bos, Winckelman, .and 
 Y
 
 242 TOrOGRAPUlCAL DESCIIIPTIOK OF 
 
 Montesquieu, who had contended that the climate of 
 England was inimical to the genius of painting. 
 
 This illustrious artist was born on the 16th July, 
 1723. His father was master of tlie grammar-school, 
 and was either a very singular man. or had accident- 
 ally obtained that character. Mr. iNIalone observes, 
 that he fancied " an uncommon Christian name** for 
 his son, might be the means of bettering his fortune, 
 and therefore gave liim the scriptural appellation of 
 Joshua. 
 
 Young Jobhua evinced an early propensity for 
 drawing, and began by copying some sketches made 
 by his elder sisters, and also the prints from Cat's 
 Book of Emblems, When only eight years old, " he 
 read, with great avidity and pleasure, The Jesuits* 
 Perspective," with the rules of which he soon made 
 himself perfectly acquainted. Afterwards he obtained 
 lliciiardson's Treatise on Painting : the perusal of 
 which so delighted and inflamed his young mind, 
 that he thought Raphael the most exalted of mortal 
 men, and resolved to become a painter himself. To 
 gratify his propensity for the fascinating art, his 
 father placed him under Thomas Hudson, the most 
 celebrated portrait painter of that time. This gentle- 
 man was a native of Exeter, and was born in 1701. 
 As a scholar, and son-in-law to llichardson the 
 painter and author, he derived some practical know- 
 ledge, recommendation, and connections. Though 
 a very indifferent artist, when conipared to his dis- 
 tinguished pupil, he obtained considerable business 
 in painting " the honest similitudes" of country gen- 
 tlemen, who were faithfully represented, as Walpole 
 observes, " in the fair tied wigs, blue velvet coats, 
 and white satin waistcoats," which constituted the 
 fashionable dress of the time. But our young artist 
 soon excelled his master, and sought further excel- 
 lence by a visit to Rome, and other places on the 
 continent, where paintings were collected and pre- 
 served. On returning from Italy, uhere he hud spent 
 three years with Lord Keppel, he attracted the public
 
 DrVONSHIRE. 243 
 
 notice and op[)laui:e, by a full length portrait of his 
 pation, the above nobleman. From this period he 
 continued to advance in fume and fortune; and, by 
 associating with the most distinguished literari of the 
 nu:c, by an amiable suavity of manners, and a union 
 of literary and professional talents, he exalted his 
 own honour with that of the arts and his country. 
 He died much beloved and lamented, February 23d, 
 1792, and was interred in the crypt of the Cathedral 
 '»r 6t. Paul's, with every honour that could be shown 
 to worth and genius by an enlightened nation. Ilis 
 pall was supported by three Dukes, two Marquisse.s, 
 and five other noblemen, and a numerous retinue of 
 the most distinguished characters attended the funeral 
 ceremony. • Of his private and professional character, 
 we shall give some account in the language of a living 
 artist, as inserted in the supplement to Pilkington's 
 Dictionary of Painters. 
 
 *• Jn many respects, both as a man and a painter, 
 Sir Joshua Reynolds cannot be too much praised, 
 studied, and imitated, by every one who wishes to 
 attain the like eminence. All nature, and all art, was 
 his academy ; and his mind vvtis constantly awake, 
 ever on the wing, comprehensive, vigorous, discri- 
 minating, and retentive. \\ ith taste to perceive all 
 the varieties of the picturesque, judgment to select, 
 and skill to combine what would serve his purpose, 
 few have ever been empowered by nature to do more 
 from the funds of his own genius ; and none ever 
 endeavoured more to t:\kcadvantage of the labours of 
 others, in making a splendid and useful collection, 
 for which no expence was spared : his house was 
 filled, to the remotest corners, with casts from the 
 antique, pictures, statues, drawings, and prints, by 
 the various masters of all the diiferent schools and 
 nations. 
 
 " Beautiful and seducing as his style undoubtedly 
 
 was, it cannot be recommended in so unreserved a 
 
 manner, a& his industry both in study and practice. 
 
 Colouring was evidently his first excellence, to which 
 
 Y 2
 
 244 TOPOGRAPHICAL DESCRIPTION OF 
 
 all Others were, more or less, sacrificed ; and though 
 in splendour and brilliancy he was exceeded by 
 Rubens and Paul Veronese, in force and aeptli by 
 Titian and Rembrandt, and in fresluiess and truth by 
 Velasquez and Vandyck, yet, perhaps, he possessed 
 a more exquisite combination of all these qualities, 
 and that peculiarly his own, than is to be found in 
 the works of either of those celebrated masters. 
 
 " His discourses are written in an easy, agreeable 
 manner, and contain many just observations, much 
 excellent criticism, and valuable advice ; but being 
 undertaken before he had profoundly considered the 
 subject, they are frequently vague and unintelligible, 
 and sometimes contradictory." 
 
 The lines written on this great artist, by his friend 
 Goldsmith, in his poem of Retaliation, are too cha- 
 racteristic to be omitted. 
 
 ** Here Reynolds is laid ; and, to tell you my mind, 
 He has not left a wiser or better behind. 
 His pencil was striking, resistless, and grand ; 
 His manners were gentle, complying, and bland : 
 Still born to improve us in every part ; 
 His pencil, our faces ; his manners, our heart : 
 To coxcombs averse, yet most civilly steering, 
 When they judg'd without skill, he was still hard 
 
 of hearing ; 
 AVben they talk'd of their Raphaels, Correggios, and 
 
 stuff, 
 He shifted his trumpet*, and only took gnuftV 
 Plympton St. Mary — adjoins the former parish, and 
 contains 245 houses, and about 1600 inhabitants. 
 Here was formerly a college, founded by one of the 
 Saxon kings, but the society was dissolved in 1121, 
 by the Bishop of Exeter, who established in its stead 
 a priory of Augustines, whose revenues exceeded 
 those of any other similar foundation in the diocese. 
 After a further ride of six miles, embracing many 
 
 * Sir Joshua was so deaf, as to be obliged to use an 
 ear-trumpet in company.
 
 DEVOKSHIUE. 24o 
 
 pleasin» views of villages, private seats, &c. we arrive 
 at Ivy Bridge. 
 
 Newton Ferrers, on the banks of the Yealm, is in 
 a pleasing and salubrious situation ; which renders it 
 a favourite place of retirement for naval officers. The 
 parish church is a plain building, consisting of a nave 
 and two aisles ; in the chancel, is the raonuraent of 
 Grace, wife of A. Clifford, Rector of Newton, and 
 daughter of Potter, Bishop of Carlisle. The hamlet 
 of Noss, on the opposite side of the creek, forms a 
 pleasing object; as are the grounds of Membland, at 
 the head of the valley : this mansion and lands are 
 the property of Sir John Perring, Bart. Proceeding 
 north, by the public road, we shall leave Gnaton, the 
 residence of Henry Roe, Esq. on the right, and 
 reach Puslinch, the seat of the Rev. John Yonge, 
 the Rector of Newton. From the fir-crowned hill, 
 which rises behind the house, a prospect of the most 
 fascinating character will rivet our attention. Imme- 
 diately below, is the vale through which the Yealm 
 rolls its placid stream, profusely studded with tower- 
 ing elms, relieved by the neat dwellings of Yealmp- 
 ton appearing between. Charming views of the estu- 
 ary present themselves on the right, with the grounds 
 of Kitley and Coffleet ; and the whole southern part 
 of the parish of Brixton, with its church and village, 
 appearing like a richly wooded lawn. Having crossed 
 Pushnch Bridge, below the house, we shall turn to 
 the left, and enter the delightful domain of Edmund 
 PoUexfen Bastard, Esq. one of the representatives in 
 parliament for the important county of Devon. The 
 estuary here forms a beautiful peninsula, and a 
 shaded walk, decorated with rustic seats and pavi- 
 lions, is carried along its margin, and leads to the 
 house. This mansion has undergone a complete 
 repair, in a style of taste and magnificence worthy of 
 the proprietor. Kitley can boast a collection of 
 pictures, which contains some of the most %'aluabit; 
 works of Sir Joshua Reynolds, as well as several by 
 the old masters of foreign scliools. The ancestors of 
 Y3
 
 246 TOPOGRAPHICAL DESCRIPTION OF 
 
 Mr. Bastard, followed the fortunes of the Norrnan 
 Conqueror, who rewarded (heir servicei with large 
 grants at EiFord, Meavy, and other places. Kitley 
 became their property by marriage with the heiress of 
 Edmund Pollexfen, Esq. and has continued to be 
 their principal residence. The grounds are extensive, 
 and tastefully laid out. A carriage-drive leads from 
 the house through an arch, over which the Modbury 
 turnpike-road passes. Here a grass path to the right, 
 leads to plantations on some high ground, from whence 
 we gain beautiful views of the lawn, the house, and 
 the estuary, with the uplands of Wembury and Revel- 
 stoke, beyond. The drive to the left, is continued 
 by the side of a rapid brook, through thick planta- 
 tions of fir, ash, and oak, to a rustic lodge, where 
 it crosses a parish-road to Yealmpton. Here it 
 leaves the valley, and ascends through a more forest- 
 like tract, again varied by plantations, till it termi- 
 nates at another neat rural lodge, nearly two miles 
 from tlie house. Leaving these delightful grounds, 
 and following the public road, we shall reach Lyn- 
 HAM, the property of John Bulteel, Esq. of Fleet, 
 and now the residence of James Courtney, Esq. 
 The ancestors of the present possessor, of the name 
 of Crocker, resided at Lynham in the reign of 
 Henry IV. The house is surrounded by ancient 
 woods, which with those of Hareston, on the other 
 side of a pleasingly secluded valley, overshadow a 
 tributary brook which flows into Yealm estuary at 
 Kitley. In this vale isHARESxoN, the residence of 
 John Wood Winter, Esq. whose ancestors (the Woods) 
 have enjoyed lands here during several successive 
 generations. A walk through fertile land, and part 
 of Kitley grounds, will conduct us to Brixton Church 
 and village. This church, which has been fitted up 
 in a style of becoming neatness, is without any of those 
 tawdry decorations sometimes so injudiciously placed 
 on the walls of our places of public worship. The 
 only monuments, are three marble tablets, comme- 
 morative of Thomas Lane, Esq of Coffleet, of Mrs.
 
 DEVONSHIRE. 247 
 
 Lnne, of Lieut. Tliomas Lane, and of John Templar 
 Lane, Esq. and a plain slab to the memory of the 
 Woods of Hareston, dated 1694. A tablet in the 
 church-yard wall records the planting of an adjacent 
 grove of lofty elms, in 1677, by Edmund Fortes- 
 cue, Esq. of Spriddlestone, who ordained that they 
 should be sold, when mature, and the products 
 applied to the relief of the parochial poor. The 
 motto on this stone, " Ncwo sibi soli nutus;'' "No 
 man is born alone for himself," is most appropriate 
 to every planter; and should be remembered by all, 
 as an antidote to selfishness, and an incentive to be- 
 nevolence. The modern residences of Miss Lane, 
 and of Thomas Splatt, Esq. form conspicuous objects 
 among the humbler dwellings of this pretty rural 
 hamlet. From this village we shall direct our steps 
 to Coftleet, the mansio-n of the Rev. R. Lane, who 
 has here lately made considerable improvements. 
 'J'he lawn, which is tastefully interspersed with plant- 
 ations, declines down to the shores of Yealm estuary, 
 whose numerous miniature promontories, grassy knolls, 
 and woody inlets, form charming features in the 
 surrounding landscape. We shall now return to the 
 stream of the Yealm, and visit Yealmpton, which con- 
 tains the parish-church, and a number of genteel dwell- 
 ings. This town or village, claims high antiquity, as 
 tradition reports that the Saxon king Ethelwold 
 erected a palace, and that his lieutenant or viceroy 
 Lipsiuswas interred here. In the church are numerous 
 .sepulchral monuments of the families of Crocker, Pol- 
 Icxten, Copleston, and Bastard. A brass plate in the 
 south aisle, bears this inscription, iu the black letter: 
 
 SlntJ four timejs ttoentg toece ginte ©J)t;ffit to eartlj b.'tsf 
 
 7m\)zxi J,0abel t%i tuief of ©oplfjstou mm oio oye, 
 %\)Z t^ivD nap h\\x\i^ i%%xut, noto %ixz in tombe Dort)
 
 248 TOPOGRAPHICAL DE-iCRIPTION OF 
 
 •^0 ^mx^ f otteistcue, tl)ira £)m^l)ttt bg Degree, 
 Sinn 0gne0 take Ijtc ^otJjer'e iiatm of €)EintmatrH;cisi 
 bloue tD3j3 ?!)?♦ 
 
 Another brass tablet fixed on one of the pillars, 
 has a Latin inscription, also in black letter, to a 
 youth of the Copleston lamily. In the transept is an 
 elegant marble monument of Edmund Pollexfen, Esq. 
 barrister at law ; and in the south aisle, handsome 
 monuments commemorative of the family of Bastard. 
 A tablet in the floor of the north aisle, has a Latin 
 inscription much defaced, in memory of one of the 
 Crockers, by which we learn that he was standard- 
 bearer to Edward IV. The present vicar is the 
 Kev. J. Longmorc, who has rebuilt the vicarage in an 
 elegant style. In the church-yard an oblong block 
 of granite, with the word TOllEVS graven on it, 
 appears to have been intended for a sepulchral monu- 
 ment, but its real designation has baffled the re- 
 searches of antiquarians. The walks in the immedi- 
 ate vicinity of Yealmpton, along the banks of the 
 river, are extremely pleasing. One of these, which 
 leads through groves and meadows towards Puslinch- 
 Lridge, will conduct us to a cavern in the limestone 
 rock, of extraordinary extent. The entrance of this 
 cave, which was discovered several years since, is 
 closed by a door, placed there by the direction of 
 Mr. Bastard, in whose grounds the quarry is situated. 
 In tracing the river from Yealmpton, we shall pass 
 Torr, the property of William Holberton, Esq. and 
 proceed to Yeahn Bridge, where there is a paper- 
 mill, belonging to Mr. Tiiomas Holberton, whose 
 neat residence is adjoining. About three miles north, 
 is Lee-mill Bridge, where the Yealm is crossed by 
 the Exeter road, and by following its course, we 
 shall reach Slade, in a low situation, the seat of 
 John Spurrel Pode, Esq, On a more elevated site, 
 is Delamore, the residence of Treby Hele Hays, Esq. 
 This is a modern house, with an elegant veranda, 
 conu.ianding varied prospects over heathy commons,
 
 DEVONSHIRE. 249 
 
 relieved by tiie more pleasing scenery of a cultivated 
 valley below. The church-town of Corkwood ad- 
 joins the grounds; the church is a neat edifice, with 
 a low tower. In the church-yard are some antique 
 granite tombs, with inscriptions in rude characters. 
 The interior contains monuments of the families of 
 Fortescue, Bellmaine, Savery, Rogers, &c. A tablet 
 record.s the virtues of the Rev. Thomas Vivian, a 
 learned and piuus divine, 46 years vicar of the parish. 
 Here is thenxjnument of Sir John Rogers, member of 
 parliament U)r Piymoutli, lineally descended from Dr. 
 Rogers, who sutlered martyrdom " for conscience 
 sake," in the reign of Mary. An inscription perpe- 
 tuates the valour of Benjamin Burrell, a captain in 
 the army of Charles the First. From Cornwood we 
 pur-ue the road eastward, and pass in front of the 
 residence of the Vicar, the Rev. Duke Yonge, en- 
 joying a pleasing prospect in a valley, profusely 
 adorned with trees of varied foliage. The principal 
 stream of the Yealm is here crossed by a stone bridge, 
 near which is Br.ATcnroRD, the seat of Sir John 
 Lemon Rogers, Burt, surrounded by ancient trees of 
 extraordinary magnitude. Above the bridge, the 
 Yealm flows from its source through the wilds of 
 Dartmoor, and forms the boundary between the 
 hundreds of Plympton and Erinington. 
 
 By crossing the rivers Yealm and Erme, we also 
 arrive at Modbury, an ancient borough town, consist- 
 ing principally of four streets, running east, west, north, 
 and south, and crossing each other at right angles in 
 the market-place. Many of the inhabitants are em- 
 ployed in the woollen trade; and here is also a weekly 
 market on Thursday ; besides which, a hat and plush 
 manufactory have been establibhcd in the town : tlie 
 machines used in the latter are of very ingenious con- 
 struction. 
 
 The church, a spacious edifice, deviates conside- 
 rably from the usual east and west construction, and 
 has a spire about 131 feet high. An ancient building, 
 now converted into a barn, was in the reign of King
 
 250 TOPOGRAPHICAL DESCRIPTION Oi 
 
 Stephen part of the alien j)rioi-y of Benedictines here. 
 Here are also the ruins of LModbury-house, commonly 
 called " The Court-house," once inliabited by the 
 family of the Champernounes, who lived here in great 
 splendour, from the time of Edward II. till the be- 
 ginning of the 17tii century. 
 
 Tradition speaks very highly of this seat, and the 
 manner in whicii the Chauipernounes lived ; and par- 
 ticularly of their keeping a very fine band of singers 
 and musicians; which band, if report may be credited, 
 was the occasion of the family's ruin ; for that Mr. 
 Champernoune, taking it on the Thames in the time 
 of Queen Elizabeth, her Majesty was so delighted 
 witii the music, that she requested the loan of it for a 
 month ; to which Mr. Champernoune, aware of the 
 improbability of its ever returning, would not consent; 
 saying, ' lie hoped her Majesty would allow him to 
 keep his fancy.' - The queen vvas so highly exasperated 
 at this refusal, that she found some pretence to sue 
 him at law^ and in the course of the proceedings to 
 sell no less than nineteen manors." This anecdote, 
 at least the circumstance of the sale of the nineteen 
 manors about the above period, is in a great degree 
 confirmed by the title deeds of some lands in and 
 round Modbury; and from these it likewise appears, 
 that the possessions of the family, at the close of the 
 seventeenth century, were comparatively inconsider- 
 able ; and tliat soon afterwards, nearly all of them 
 •were alienated. The Champernounes of Dartington, 
 are a younger branch of those seated in this town. 
 At Modbury a court-leet is held twice every year; 
 and at the Michaelmas court a portreeve (usually 
 styled Mayor), constables, &c. are elected. 
 
 Near Modbury are several seats and manors, viz. 
 Traine, an ancient seat of the Swete family since the 
 year 1438, but now that of — Andrews, Esq. : Fleet- 
 housCj the seat of F. Bulteel, Esq. : Goodai/wrc, Paul 
 Treby, Esq. : S/iilston, belonging to J. Savery, Esq. : 
 Mar ridge, belonging to the Rev. G. Taylor : Foivels- 
 combe, about four miles from Modbury, — King, Esq.
 
 DEVONSHIRE. 251 
 
 Traine, near Modbury, is an ancient seat of the 
 S(cete family, who acquired it by descent from the 
 Sax)s, who became extinct about tlie time of Henry 
 VIII. Before that period the Sweies resided at Upton 
 in South Milton, where they can be traced back as 
 far as the year 1438, on an estate that still belongs to 
 the family. Adrian Swete was sheriff of Devon in 
 1724. The present resident is — Andrews, Esq. 
 
 Fleet-house, about two miles from Modbury, is the 
 property of James Bulteel, Esq. This mansion is 
 finely situated on an eminence on the western side of 
 the river Erme. Part of it is very ancient, but many 
 alterations have been made, besides the erection of an 
 extensive and elegant front towards the north. This 
 connnands a delightful prospect over the valley, 
 through which the river winds with Ermington Church, 
 and the celebrated hills on the moor, called the East 
 and West Beacons. 
 
 About bix miles to the south-east of Modbury is 
 KiKGSBRiDGE, a pleasant little town, situated on a 
 branch of the Saltcombe river, and, according to 
 Risdon, deriving its name from the bridge which 
 separates it from Dodbrooke. A Latin free-school 
 was founded here by a Mr. Crispin of Exeter. David 
 Tolley, or Tolbey, called Tavelegus by Leland, was 
 a native of this town. He commenced student at 
 St. Mary's Hall, Oxford, and became a considerable 
 proficient in the I^itin and Greek languages. The 
 Progymnasmata Grammatic(B GrcFC^y was written by 
 him, for the use of Prince Edward. He was also the 
 author of Tliemata Hmnerl, and some other pieces. 
 
 Dodbrooke has been celebrated as the first place 
 where white ale was brewed ; but perhaps more so 
 from the circumstance of tithes being demandable for 
 that liquor: a small sum is now paid annually by each 
 innkeeper here, in lieu of this tithe. A market is held 
 here every third Wednesday in the month, and four 
 quarterly markets in a year, for the sale of cattle. 
 
 About ten miles to the north-east of Kingsbridge, 
 is Dartmouth, a very considerable sea-port tnwn^
 
 252 TOPOGRAPHICAL DESCRIPTION OF 
 
 mo!5t delightfully situated near the confluence of the 
 river Dart with the British Channel. This town ori- 
 ji,inally consisted of three villages named Clifton, Dart- 
 mouth, and Hardness; and though now united by 
 buildings, are distinct with respect to local regulations 
 in several instances. Built for nearly a mile in ex- 
 tent along the side of a craggy hill, the streets are 
 extremely irregular, incommodiously narrow, and stand 
 in tiers one above the other, frequently communicating 
 with those above by flights of steps. The quay is large 
 and convenient, and near it is a spacious street, 
 u here the merchants generally reside. Here are three 
 churches, beside meeting-hoi;ses for Dissenters, charity- 
 schools, &c. One of the former, St. Clements, is 
 situated on a hill a quarter of a mile out of the town, 
 and having a tower nearly seventy feet high, forms a 
 good sea-mark. Dartmouth carries on a considerable 
 trade with the Newfoundland fishery ; and I)ere is a 
 fish-market daily, except Sunday, and one on Friday 
 for other provisions. Dartmouth is governed by a 
 Mayor, twelve masters or magistrates, twelve common 
 councilmen, a recorder, a high-steward, 6ic. Here is 
 also a court of session and a water-bailiwick court. 
 The harbour is very safe, and will contain 500 sail. 
 The castle defends the entrance, and with its round 
 towers presents a very prominent object. There are 
 also two platforms of cannon. Dartmouth Bay is one 
 of the most beautiful on the coast. Both the entrance 
 of the Dart into it, and its exit to tlie sea, from many 
 stations, appear closed up by the folding of the banks, 
 and to resemble a lake, only furnished with shipping 
 instead of boats. The rocks on each side of the bay 
 are of a glossy purple coloured slate, and their sum- 
 mits are fringed with various plants and shrubs. 
 
 To the north of Dartmouth lies the port of Torbay, 
 the principal rendezvous of his Majesty's shipping. 
 The river Dart, much admired for its beautiful scenery, 
 is navigable hence to Totness, a distance often miles 
 by water; and between these places passage-boats 
 pass daily. In coming down the river from Totness,
 
 DLVON^UIRE. 253 
 
 on the riglil, at the distance of about three milea from 
 that town, is Sharphain, J. Bastard, Esq. One mile 
 and a half farther on the left, is Stoke Gabriel Village, 
 near which is Maidonetre-house, J. H. Hunt, Esq. 
 At six miles on the lelt, is Sandridge-fiouse, R. ]V. 
 Newman, Esq., and Wooton-court, Henry Studdy, 
 Esq. At seven miles on the right, ii the village of 
 Dettisham, and the Parsonage, the Rev. Robert 
 Hutchings. On the left Greenway-honse, J. JV/. £/- 
 ton, Esq, 
 
 Close to Dartmouth is Mount Boon, the seat of J. 
 II. Seaile, Esq. ; the woods extend along a branch of 
 the river for the space of two miles; and tbere is a 
 hermitage and a small castle in these grounds. A 
 new market-place and a town-hall have lately been 
 built at Dartmouth. 
 
 About four miles to the south-west of Dartmouth is 
 Slapton Lea, a remarkable lake, nearly two miles and 
 a quarter in length, running parallel with the beach of 
 Start Bay, and about a quarter of a mile distant from 
 the sea, formed by three small streams of fresh water, 
 without any visible outlet, but supposed to find a way 
 into the sea through the land. 
 
 It was formerly well stored with pike, perch, roach, 
 and eels ; but most of the fish were destroyed, and great 
 part of the Lea drained, by means of a singular breach 
 made in the sand, towards the sea, during a storm. 
 In the winter the lake abounds with wild ducks, 
 widgeons, teal, coots, and other birds of different 
 species. 
 
 About two miles and a half from Dartmouth, on 
 the opposite side of the harbour, is Brixham Church 
 Town, and Brixham Quay, which have derived con- 
 siderable consequence of late years, and become much 
 improved, through their proximity to Torbay. 
 
 Near Brixham Church Town, is an ebbing and 
 flowing spring called Laywell, of which the following 
 particular account has been given by a former tourist, 
 who remarks, as the result of his own observation-, 
 that he had car-efuUv attended to its periods, and the 
 Z
 
 254 TOPOGKArillCAL DESCRIPIION OF 
 
 quantity of its ebbing and flowing, for fourteen hours 
 together. 
 
 " The situation of this spring is pretty near the foot 
 of a large ridge of hills, and tb.e quantity of water 
 flowing from it considerable. It falls into a large 
 basin. By a careful observation of a great number of 
 fluxes and' refluxes, I find that when it proceeds re- 
 gularly, as it sometimes does for eiglit hours together, 
 it is eleven times in an hour. 
 
 " There happens sometimes an intermission of these 
 ebbings and flowings; for, on the same day that the 
 above remarks were made, the spring had no motion 
 once for upwaids of an hour, and at another time for 
 above twenty minutes." 
 
 The basin tiiat receives the water, is supposed to 
 be about twenty feet in area; the perpendicular height 
 of the flowing various, sometimes an inch and tliree 
 quarters, but generally about one inch and one-eighth. 
 
 One mile to the north-west of Brixham, is Lupton- 
 house, the seat of — BuUer, Esq.: it is finely situated 
 in an ascent, and its southern front is particularly 
 liandsome. The eminences about it are well wooded, 
 and the watered vales lie spread out beneath them. 
 About a mile distant, at Brixham, is Upton-house, 
 G. H. Cutler, Esq. 
 
 At Brixham, within the bay, are kept a large num- 
 ber of sloops for the sole purpose of traw ling, by which 
 the best flat fish, as turbots, soles, and plaise, besides 
 great quantities of whitings, pipers, gurnets, and other 
 fish frequenting that coast, are taken some leagues out 
 at sea. The fishing is continued during the year, the 
 fish being sent to their ultimate destination by land- 
 carriage. 
 
 A pier has, within these few years, been built at 
 Brixham. This town has increased very much within 
 these few years, and carries ou an extensive fishery. 
 The fish is of the best kind, and is conveyed to various 
 parts of the kingdom. 
 
 Brixham, a dependency on the port of Dartmouth, 
 has no less than 100 sail of vessels employed in the
 
 DEVONSUirE. 255 
 
 fisheries. These boats are built much hirger than 
 formerly, as in the summer montlis they are engaged 
 in a number of freights in the cuhn trade, averaging a 
 burthen of about eighty quarters; of this, each quarter 
 contains sixteen heaped Winchester bushels. Their 
 principal fish markets are London, Batli, and Bristol; 
 but if there is a likelihood of any glut, the whiting, 
 flounders, thornback, gurnet, &c. are first cleaned, 
 and well washed in salt water, and afterwards gently 
 salted and dried in the sun. Thus prepared they 
 make an excellent relish called huckhorn, much used 
 in the navy in war, and always on the French coast 
 in time of peace, being sold from 10s. to 16s. per 
 hundred fish, according to their size and quality. 
 
 Near Brixham is the promontory of Berry Head, 
 on which some barracks were erected, during the late 
 war. 
 
 The views of Torbay from Brixham and Berry 
 Head are very fine. William the Third landed here 
 November <!, 1688. 
 
 The sail down the Dait fromTotness to Dartmouth 
 is incomparably fine. Here are extraordinary suc- 
 cessions of fine views. 
 
 Returning from this digression, at the distance of 
 eleven miles from Modbury, after passing through the 
 villages of Brownson, Luckbridge, and Ingleburi], we 
 arrive at Tot n ess. 
 
 The number of houses in Totness is 346, most of 
 them in one street, nearly three quarters of a mile in 
 length, terminated on the east by a bridge over the 
 Dart. The number of inhabitants is stated at 3128. 
 
 The serge manufacture here, in the weaving depart- 
 ment, is performed by womt-n ; the spinning by ma- 
 chinery in the same manner as cotton. This town 
 being at the head of the navigation of the Dart river, 
 vessels of thirty or forty tons burthen may come up 
 with the spring tides. About a mile above the bridge, 
 the ordinary flow of the spring tides being eigiit feet, 
 a salmon weir is extended directly across the river. 
 At this dam or weir, a powerful mill-race is taken up 
 Z 2
 
 1256 TOPOGRAPHICAL DESeJlIPTION OF 
 
 to serve a corn and fulling miH, constantly employed 
 in washing and fulling the pieces manufactured in the 
 town. The corn mill is a valuable acquisition to tliis 
 part of the country. 
 
 About two miles from Totness is Sharpham, the 
 delightful residence of Edmund Bastard, Esq. situated 
 on the declivity of a hill embosomed in wood. The 
 views from the iiouse, which is an elegant building of 
 freestone, are" extremely picturesque. 
 
 Dartington, the seat of Mrs. Cliampernoune, is 
 beautifully situated about one mile and a half to the 
 north of rotness, in the neighbourhood of the Dart, 
 which winds round the greater part of the estate. The 
 adjacent scenery is remarkably romantic and pictu- 
 resque. The mansion-house, which is very large, is 
 supposed to have been built in the early part of the 
 fifteenth century; and, during the reign of Richard II., 
 was the residence of his half-brother the Duke of 
 Exeter, It stands upon an eminence, commanding a 
 fine view of tiie beautiful vale of Totness. It is 250 
 feet in length; the hall is seventy feet long, and forty 
 witle ; the chimney-piece is fourteen feet high, and 
 the roof of oak, very curiously framed. 
 
 Some of the windows command a fine view of the 
 beautiful vale of Totness, and other places. The walls 
 are of black marble, and exceedingly firm and well 
 built. The great hall is the only part remaining of 
 the superb structure built by the Duke of Exeter, 
 ^'rom the remains of walls and other circumstances, it 
 seems evident, that the original buildings composed a 
 double quadrangle, the two courts being connected by 
 the hall, kitchen, and buttery. Behind these to the 
 left, is a large area surrounded by very thick walls; 
 and on the side directly opposite the hall, are the 
 remains of a long range of buildings supported by an 
 arched front, the arches of which are walled up to the 
 height of two feet. The foundations of various walls 
 were also discovered some years ago in digging up the 
 area. Of the outer quadrangle, three sides remain 
 nearly perfect; the buildings on the fourth side have
 
 DEVONSUIRE. 257 
 
 been mostly destroyed. The central part is now the 
 dwelling house ; the range to the right has been occu- 
 pied as a barn, stable, 6cc.; on the left is the hall and 
 great kitchen ; the latter is thirty-five (Vet square, 
 having walls of immense thickness ; the roof is de- 
 stroyed. The dwelling-house is 250 feet in length, 
 and was formerly divided into many tenements, each 
 room having only one door, and that opening imme- 
 diately to the air ; but scarcely any part of the ori- 
 ginal building remains unaltered. The apartments, 
 in the ancient state of the mansion, were entered by 
 five door-ways projecting from the front, and having 
 steps projecting from each, and leading to the rooms 
 over the ground-floor. In the part inhabited by Mrs, 
 Champernoune are some beautiful paintings, and a 
 good collection of drawings. The windows are large 
 and pointed. The outside is embattled and strength- 
 ened by buttresses. The entrance porch, and tower, 
 also embattled, is forty-four feet high : the porch is 
 vaulted ; and in the centre of the cross of the arch is 
 an ornamental rose, with a recumbent stag in the 
 middle. 
 
 Immediately behind the dwelling-house is Darting- 
 ton Church, a building of some antiquity, with large 
 pointed windows, battlements, and a tower. The 
 windows were formerly decorated with a considerable 
 quantity of painted glass taken down about forty years 
 ago, and only a small portion of it leplaced. Among 
 it are various coats of arms, and the figure of a Duchess 
 of Exeter praying for " the soul of Thomas her son." 
 Before her are the arms of England, borne also by 
 Holland, quartered with jMortimer. This duchess was 
 probably Anne, widow of Edmund Mortimer; and 
 afterwards, according to Dugdale, married to John, 
 Duke of Exeter. Near the altar is an alabaster mo- 
 nument to the mwiiory of Sir Arthur Champernoune, 
 the first of this family that possessed Dartington. 
 On this is also the figures of his wife and seven chil- 
 dren, with the arms of the families with whom they 
 married. 
 
 Z 3
 
 238 TOPOGRAPUICAL DESCRIPTION OF 
 
 The parish ofDartington contains about 5000 acres; 
 of these nearly two-thirds are the property of Mrs. 
 Champernoune. 
 
 About two miles to the north-east of Totness are 
 the magnificent remains of Berry-Pomeroy Castle, 
 which are seen upon a rocky eminence over a rivulet 
 below, surrounded by the most beautiful scenery of 
 wood and water, which 
 
 " rushing o'er its pebbly bed, 
 
 Imposes silence with a stilly sound ;" — 
 
 and, in combination with the other features of the 
 scenery, forms one of the mo^t delightful views tiiat 
 the country exhibits. The castle was erected by, and 
 obtained its name from, the Pomeroj/s, whose ancestor, 
 Ralph de la Pomcroy, came to England with the Con- 
 queror, and for his services was rewarded vvitii fifty- 
 eight lordships in this county. His progeny resided 
 here till the reign of Edward the Sixth, when Sir 
 Thomas Pomeroy sold the manor to Edward Seymour, 
 Duke of Somerset, from whom it has descended to 
 the present Duke of Somerset. 
 
 The approach to the castle " is through a thick 
 wood, extending along the slope of a range of hills 
 that entirely intercept any prospect to the south ; on 
 the opposite side is a steep rocky ridge, covered with 
 oak, so that the ruins are shut into a beautiful valley. 
 The great gate, with the «alls to the south front, tlie 
 north wing of the court, or quadrangle, some apart- 
 ments on ihe west side, and a turret, or two, are the 
 principal remains of the building ; and these are so 
 finely overhung with the branches of trees and shrubs, 
 which grow close to the walls, so beautifully mantled 
 with ivy, and so richly incrusted with moss, tiiat they 
 constitute the most picturesque objects that can be 
 imagined : and when the surrounding scenery is taken 
 into the account, the noble mass of wood fronting 
 the gate, the bold ridges rising in the horizon, and 
 the fertile valley opening to the east, the ruins of
 
 ptVONSHIRE. SS9 
 
 Berry-Pomeroy-Castle must be considered as almost 
 unparalltltd in their effect. 
 
 This fortress appears from the ruins to have been 
 originally quadrangular, having only one entrance, 
 which was on the south, between two hexagon towers, 
 through a double gateway. The first machiolated, 
 and further strengthened by angular bastions: over it 
 the arms of the Pt^meroys are yet to be seen. The 
 eastern tower commands a fine prospect of the ad- 
 jacent country. The small room over the gateway 
 was probably the chapel; and is divided by a~ wall, 
 supported by three pillars, and circular arches. The 
 ruins in the interior part, or quadrangle, are con- 
 siderably more modern tli#^the rest of the building. 
 These appear to have befm)f:ed to a " magnificent 
 structure," commenced, says Prince*, by the Sei/- 
 rnours, at an expence of 20,000/. but " never brought 
 to perfection ; for the west side of the mansion was 
 never begun: \vhat was finished may be thus de- 
 scribed. Before the door of the great hall was a 
 noble walk, whose length was the breadth of the 
 court, arched over with curiously carved free-stone, 
 supported in the fore part by several stately pillars of 
 the same stone, of great dimensions, after the Corin- 
 thian order, standing on pedestals, having cornices 
 and fritves finely wrought. The apartments within 
 were very splendid, especially the dining-room ; and 
 many other of the rooms were well adorned with 
 mouldings and fret-work; some of whose marble clavils 
 were so delicately fine, that they would reflect an 
 object true and lively from a great distance. Not- 
 withstanding which, it is now demolished, and all 
 this glory lyeth in the dust, buried in its own ruins; 
 there being nothing standing but a few broken walls*, 
 which seem to mourn their own approaching fune- 
 rals." These walls are composed of slate, and are 
 going rapidly to decay. 
 
 The principal remains of this mansion, are some of 
 
 * Worthies of Devon.
 
 260 TOPOGUAI'IIICAL DrSCIUl'lJOK OF 
 
 the mutilated walls of the domestic apartments, on 
 the east and north sides of the castle; and also shows 
 its elevated situation, and the embowering wood, 
 which envelopes the " ivy-clad ruins." 
 
 The grounds surrounding the castle, consist of 
 very steep eminences; and are almost entirely covered 
 with fine oaks, and other timber. Even in the court, 
 and on the ruins of the fortress itself, trees, apparently 
 of forty or fifty years growth, are flourishing in much 
 luxuriance ; and with the various shrubs, which na- 
 ture has profusely scattered over the interior area, 
 and around the entrance, compose a scene highly 
 beautiful and interesting. The castle was dismantled 
 during the Civil Wars, in the time of Charles the 
 First. 
 
 The church at Berry-Pomeroy was built by one of 
 the family, and contains an elaborate alabaster monu- 
 ment to the memory of Lord Edmund Seymour, Knt. 
 son to the Duke of Somerset; and the lady Eliza- 
 beth, wife to the latter, and daughter of Sir Arthur 
 Champernoune. 'I'heir effigies, are represented lying 
 on three steps, in very constrained positions. The 
 knight and his son are in armour; the former has a 
 truncheon in his left hand, and lies cross-legged, like 
 the Knights Templars. The lady is in a black dress: 
 near her head is the figure of a child in a cradle ; at 
 her feet, another in a grotesque chair, with a fine 
 cap on : below are nine figures, (five male and four 
 female) kneeling with books open before them. This 
 monument was repaired, by order of the late Duke 
 of Somerset, in the year 1771. This nobleman was 
 the eighth, in lineal descent, from Somerset the Pro- 
 tector, in tliC reign of P^dward VI. 
 
 Pursuing our journey, at the distance of seven 
 miles from Totness, we arrive at Newton Busuel, 
 a town situated on the river Teign, and adjoining to 
 it is the village of Newton Abbot. Newton Abbot 
 and Newton Bushel, are the names of two parishes 
 now united, and constitute one town. The houses 
 are very indifferently built, and the streets badly
 
 DLVUNSHIRE. 261 
 
 paved. The principal one is nmch obstructed by an 
 old market-house and shambles, said to have been 
 erected by Waller, after the Civil Wars, as a kind ot" 
 indemnity for his having attempted to deprive the in- 
 habitants of their established market, 1 he church is 
 about one mile west of the town ; but two chapels of 
 .*ase are situated \\ithin it. About one mile south of 
 Newton Abbot, is 
 
 Ford, " a neat and fair house," belonging to the 
 Courtenay family, at the foot of Milber Down, built 
 in the reign of James the First, by Sir Richard Iley- 
 ncU, an eminent lawyer. Here, in the year 1G26, 
 *' Charles the First took up his abode with his suite; 
 and one day after dinner, in the dining-room, con- 
 ferred the honour of knighthood on Richard Reynell, 
 of West Ogwell, and Thomas Reynell his brother, 
 who at that time was sewer to his Majesty's person, 
 in presence of their wives, and divers lords and 
 ladies, saying unto them, " God give you joy." 
 
 The daughter and heiress of Sir Richard Reynell, 
 married \Valler, the Parliamentary General; and 
 his daughter and heiress, Sir William Courtenay. 
 The house stands in a lawn, retired from the road, ' 
 and opposite it is a small deer-park. Near Ford is a 
 charitable institution, called the Widou'es HuusCp 
 bearing this inscription on its front : 
 
 1st strange a Prophet's widowe poore shoulde be ? 
 
 If strange, then is the Scripture strange to thee ! 
 This was founded by Lady Lucy, wifeofSirRicliard Rey- 
 nell, for the reception of four clergymen's widows; each 
 of whom was to receive an annuity of five pounds yearly : 
 yet the FeotFees have altered the original institution, 
 and only two widows are now admitted, with a salary 
 of ten pounds each, annually. Over the pew allotted 
 to these matrons in the church of Wilborough, is a 
 curious account of the necessary qualifications they 
 are to possess, and the rules they are to observe, to 
 entitle them to the residence and annuity. '• They 
 shall be noe gadders, gossuppers, tatlers, tale-bearers, 
 nor given to reproachful words, nor abusers of anye.
 
 262 TOPOGRAPHICAL DESCRIPTION 01 
 
 And no man may be lodged in any of these liousts, 
 nor any beare, ale, or wyne be found in tbeni." 
 
 The river Teign rises in two streams, both in Dart- 
 moor, one rather to the south of Chagford. Bovey 
 Brook falls into the Teinn, and both join a little 
 above Newton Bushel. The united stream soon after 
 expands itself, and pursuing its course of six or 
 seven miles, falls into the English Channel, atTeign- 
 mouth. 
 
 Torquay, about six miles from hence, is a large 
 village, situated in a cove of Torbay, about two miles 
 from the extreme point of the promontory called 
 Hope's Nose. Within a few years past it has become 
 a bathing place. It is sheltered from the waves by a 
 ridge of rocks. The air of the place is sharp, but in 
 romantic beauty and picturesque scenery, it cannot 
 be surpassed. A spirited improvement has also been 
 made in the northernmost cove of Torbay, where a 
 new pier, projected south-westwardly from the eastern 
 cliff, affords complete protection to shipping from 
 the southern winds. The regularity of the buildings 
 raised for the accommodation of sea-bathers, adds 
 neatness and beauty to the place ; and the park, and 
 the new carriage way to the same, with a plantation 
 on its left, are no small embellishments to this little 
 place, which may probably become of some import- 
 ance in a maritime point of view. 
 
 Torquay owes this celebrity principally to the mild- 
 ness of the air, and is peculiarly qualified for the 
 winter residence of consumptive patients: it is en- 
 tirely sheltered from every wind but the south-east, 
 and the flowers of spring may be found there at 
 Christmas. The views round are delightfully roman- 
 tic and picturesque : the buildings are in general 
 good, and the accommodations equal to those of any 
 other bathing place upon the coast. The improve- 
 ments are chiefly owing to the late Sir Lawrence Palk, 
 who purchased the large estate of Torwood of the 
 late Marquis of Donegal. The old mansion of Tor- 
 wood-house stands on an eminence about h.alf a mile
 
 DF.VOXSHIKE
 
 DEVONSHIUE. 263 
 
 from Torquay, but is only inhabited by a farmer. 
 At the distance of a mile and a half is Poole's Hole, 
 a very curious cavern. Babbecombe Bay, which fur- 
 nishes such exquisite specimens of fine marble, is two 
 miles from Torquay, and well worth visiting, from its 
 picturesque beauty : a number of houses have lately 
 been erected on the sides of the Bay for the accom- 
 modation of visitors. 
 
 Near Torquay is Torr Abbey, the beautiful seat of 
 G. Cary, Esq. It was formerly an abbey of the 
 Premonstratensian order. The house has undergone 
 great repairs, and faces the bay. This edifice consists 
 of a centre and two wings, one of vvhich is connected 
 with a castellated gateway, having octagonal towers 
 and battlements. Beyond this is a large barn over- 
 spread wiih a mantle of ivy, and decorated with loop- 
 holes and numerous buttresses. The Roman Catho- 
 lic chapel, attached to the house, is ornamented with 
 a superb altar and paraphernalia, on each side of 
 which are paintings; one represents the Crucified 
 Saviour ; the other the Blessed Virgin. The end of 
 this chapel projecting into the garden, is completely 
 vested with ivy. There are also several ruins clad in 
 the same antique drapery, and among them a large 
 Norman arch, with a small one on either side richly 
 adorned with sculpture. 
 
 The park contains a number of ancient trees. Lord 
 Bruer, a nobleman of great reputation in the time of 
 King John, first founded the religious house for the 
 order of Premonstratensians. 
 
 At a small distance from Torr Abbey, to the south- 
 east, is a sort of rocky island approachable at low 
 water, separated from a projecting clifT by the sea, 
 corroded by the saline spray in the upper parts, and 
 undermined and excavated by the surge below. The 
 loose sandy stratum has formed itself into rude natu- 
 ral arches ; and as the rocky pillars divide the land- 
 scape, Torr Abbey and its wooded vale appear to 
 much advantage ; but the opening towards Torquay
 
 264 TOPOGRAPHICAL DE^CUIPTIOK OF 
 
 is, perhaps, still more l.eauiiful. Here, to the im- 
 mense cavern called Kent's Hole, are three en- 
 trances, two lateral and another in front; tie roof 
 may be nearly thirty feet high and the length 130 
 feeL 
 
 Returning from this digression, at the distance of 
 eleven miles, we pass through the city of Exeter; 
 iiiue miles and a half beyond which is BRADNiNcn, 
 a corporation town, governed by a mayor and alder- 
 men. 
 
 Within two miles of Bradninch, are several paper- 
 mills. The town was nearly consumed by fne in tlie 
 year 1666. Bradninch is a part of t!ie Duchy of 
 Cornwall; and the inhabitants have a tradition higiily 
 flattering to their claims of antiquity, in the foiluwing 
 distich: 
 
 Exon was a furzy down, 
 
 When Bradninc'ii was a mayor town. 
 
 Continuing our journey, at the distance of two 
 njiles from the last-mentioned place, we arrive at 
 CoLLUMPTO>-, which, according to Risdon, is " the 
 chiefest place on the river Culme, and was the king's 
 demesne in the Saxon heptarchy." It principally 
 con-ists of one long street, containing several houses 
 neatly built, and others of a very mean construction. 
 The turnpike road from Bath and Bristol to Exeter 
 runs through tlie street, from whici) some advantages 
 are derived by the town. The several woollen manu- 
 factures here carried on give an appearance of com- 
 mercial importance : they are principally of broad 
 cloths, serges, and kerseymeres. 
 
 The church of Collumpton, a large handsome 
 building, dedicated to the Virgin Mary, and consist- 
 ing of a nave, three aisles, chancel, and a lofly tower, 
 is considered as the only ornament to the place. Tlie 
 interior of the roof is very neatly carved and gilt, and 
 the nave is separated by a richly sculptured wood- 
 lof*. The aisle on the south side was built bv Jf^hn
 
 DEVONSHIRE. 265 
 
 Lane, a clothier of this town. His bounty is com- 
 memorated in the following inscriptiou on his grave- 
 stone: 
 
 •' Hie jacet Johannes Lane, jMercator, hujusque 
 capelltE tundator cum Thomasia uxore sua, qui diet 
 Johan obit XV. Feb. annoque Do n millo 
 CCCCCXXVII. 
 
 The following inscription appears on the outside of 
 Mr. Lane's aisle, running round the whole with each 
 word cut on detxiched stones: 
 
 " In honor of God and his blessed Mother Mary, 
 remember the soule of John Lane Wapentake Gustos, 
 Lanarius, and the soule uf Thoinasine his wife, to 
 have in memory all oilicr their children and friends of 
 your own charity which were founders of this chappie, 
 and here lie in sepulture, the year of our Lord one 
 thousand five hundred and six and twenty. God of 
 his grave on both their soules to have mercy, and 
 finally bring them to eternal glory, Amea for 
 charity." 
 
 The aisle built by Mr. Lane is of very elegant 
 architecture ; and according to an inscription against 
 the east end, was tinished m 1552. The windows are 
 large, and the roof is ornamented with rich fan-shaped 
 tracery. On the outside are various sculptured or- 
 naments, emblematic of his profession as a cloth'er. 
 In this town is a t'ree-school and three Meeting-houses 
 appropriated to Presbyterians, Baptists and Metho- 
 dists. During the public rejoicing on account of the 
 defeat of the French squadron destined to invade 
 Ireland in 1793, seven houses were burnt down at 
 Collumpton, being set on fire by a rocket falling on 
 the thatched roof of one of them. 
 
 Collumpton, in 1821, contained 695 houses, and 
 3410 inhabitants, mostly employed in trade, manu- 
 factures or handicraft. 
 
 In addition to a subsequent account of the minerals 
 and fossils of Devonshire, we mu'-t o'nserve that the 
 A a
 
 266 TOPOGKAPHICAL DF.SCRIPTIOK OF 
 
 learned author of a Succinct Account of the Lime 
 Rocks of Plymouth, which has been pubHshed since 
 the greatest number of these sheets were put to press, 
 introduces liis valuable and scientific work with re- 
 marking that, " Among the vast number of strangers, 
 independent of its own inhabitants, and those of its 
 more immediate neighbourhood, who visit Plymouth 
 during the summer months, for the sake of seeing the 
 many interesting objects whicli it affords, particularly 
 that national and stupendous work, the Breakwater; 
 very few, perhaps, have the least conception that the 
 immense masses of stone of which it is composed, and 
 the quarries from whence they have been taken, as 
 well as the whole stratum or bed of limestone extend- 
 ing from those quarries westward as far as theTamar, 
 contain, besides many beautiful and well defined crys- 
 tallizations, various organic remains of animals which 
 lived in ages that have long since passed away. Yet 
 such is the undoubted fact. Whether the limestone 
 of Plymouth contained any animal remains, was a 
 question which, until a recent period, was by very few 
 only admitted, and then with considerable reservation. 
 Hearing this often mentioned amongst his friends, Mr. 
 Hennah was at length insensibly led to explore these 
 quarries; and the result has been, that he is now 
 enabled to affirm, from actual observation, " that un- 
 questionable proofs of the presence of these interesting 
 relics in our limestone are abundant;^' and it appears 
 wonderful, that they should have remained so long 
 unnoticed, or at least without drawing more attention." 
 The learned author then proceeds in a brief de- 
 scription of the leading features, characteristic marks, 
 and properties of thi§ limestone as they occur, begin- 
 ning with its relative position and extent on the south 
 side of Plymouth in an uninterrupted line, forming as 
 it were, a barrier against the encroachments of the 
 sea, from the Parsonage-house at Catdown to the 
 Devil's Point, leading into Hamoaze, and from other 
 points on the north side of Plymouth, at an elevation 
 of about one hundred feet above high water mark.
 
 DEVONSHIUE. 2(37 
 
 In brt-adtii it seltlom exceedshalf a mile, but in length 
 it extends n;any miles, sinking into the sea at the 
 extremity of the dock-yard. 
 
 The colour of the Plymouth limestone varies con- 
 siderably, although the prevailing one is a liglit blue 
 or grey, changing at times into a much darker shade, 
 or nearly black ; these again are frequently intermixed 
 or marbled with an infinite variety of red and other 
 colours capable of receiving a high polish for slabs, 
 chimney-pieces, &c. 
 
 For a proof and satisfactory illustration of tliis re- 
 mark, the reader is referred to almost all the foot 
 pavements in the three towns of Plymouth, Plymouth- 
 dock, and Stonehouse, composed of blocks taken from 
 these quarries. 
 
 Tlie small cavities variously sliaped in tlie red cal- 
 careous stone at the western end of Mount Wise, the 
 author thinks has been occasioned by the decomposi- 
 tion of the anunal matter with which they were once 
 filled. The most characteristic feature of the Ply- 
 mouth limestone the author considers as " the very 
 numerous and striking varieties of organized remains 
 of animals which it contains, especially near the west 
 eiid of the dock-yarci. In one of the several plates in 
 this work, is given the representation of the head of 
 one of the curious and rare animals spoken of; and 
 fragments of the vertebral column of different lengths 
 and sizes, of another variety of these animals, whicli 
 are found in great quantities, are also delineated. 
 
 After the consideration of its animal remains, the 
 author turns towards another no inconsiderable divi- 
 sion of the Plymouth limestone ; namely, its petri- 
 factions and crystallizations of calcareous spar. 
 
 Treating of fossil bones and teeth found in the 
 Breakwater quarries at Oreston, it is observed, in 
 quantity they filled several large baskets, and be- 
 longed to many animals. Amongst others might be 
 distinguished the teeth of an extinct species of wolf, 
 the teeth of the deer, the cow, and the horse, en- 
 veloped in a mass of black mould and clay, or rather 
 A a 2
 
 268 TOPOGRAPHICAL DESCRIPTION OF DEVON. 
 
 in a cavern situated thirty feet from the bottom, and 
 sixty from the surface: the face of the rock being 
 about ninety feet in perpendicular height. " It should 
 seem from the very considerable quantity that has 
 been collected, as if they had been brought here at 
 different times since the first formation of the rock, 
 by the beasts of prey, which occasionally took posses- 
 sion of the cavern. This conjecture is much strength- 
 ened by the shattered appearance of the ends of 
 many of the bones, which seem as if they had been 
 gnawed and broken by the teeth of some animal. 
 But as to their being antediluvian or not, or to what 
 period of the world they might be assigned, I shall 
 leave to those who are better informed than myself, 
 to determine." 
 
 Of the actual existence of these animal remains we 
 think not the least shadow of doubt can rationally be 
 entertained. The modesty of the reverend writer not 
 drawing any positive conclusion from these premises, 
 will appear to every person of discrimination ; but we 
 have no doubt of the existence of these remains for 
 many ages previous to any written data. A fact, 
 which is strengthened by the ideas of some naturalists, 
 who have supposed this earth to have been long oc- 
 cupied solely by animahy the enormous remains ef 
 which and their world, have been frequently discovered 
 from time to time, in a fossil state. 
 
 JEND OF TOPOGBAPHICAI DESCRIPTION OF DEVON.
 
 il69 
 
 MINERALS AND FOSSILS. 
 
 The varieties of mincralogical substances which are 
 still discovered in Devonshire, and the confused inter- 
 mixture of the strata, render it apparent that this county 
 lias, in some distant age, been tlie theatre of the de- 
 structive operations of those tremendous instruments 
 by which nature occasionally changes the face of the 
 globe; earthquakes and volcanoes. The period of 
 their occurrence will, perhaps, be for ever concealed ; 
 but the traces of their action are distinctly marked by 
 the numerous vestiges which present themselves to the 
 investigations of the scientific enquirer. 
 
 " Between Exeter and Exminster," observes Mr, 
 Polwhele, " the strata seem to have been greatly 
 agitated, from their present irregular appearance. 
 There is one spot in particular on the left, a little 
 before the approach to Exminster village, where the 
 white and red layers of sand, some loose, and some 
 concreted, arc jumbled together in a very extraordi- 
 nary manner. We here observe the strata in all 
 possible directions. The limestone rocks, which 
 to the south and west of Dartmoor appear insulated 
 in the schistus, are evidently parts of some great 
 stratum that at first occupied a place superior to the 
 schistus. To break up, therefore, this limestone 
 stratum, and give it the appearance of rock standing 
 out of the schistus, as we observe it in many places, 
 must have been a subsequent work. In the vicinitj of 
 these fractured strata, we have regular layers of soil, 
 marble and schist, as they were originally disposed. 
 The strata of schistus and marble, which appear in 
 the descent from Roborough to Plymouth, and suc- 
 ceed each other alternately to the shores that border 
 the Sound, discover great irregularities. When they 
 are arranged in a more regular manner, they gene- 
 rally incline to the east ; but in many places they 
 are almost vertical : a proof of the violence and de- 
 vastation which must have occasioned these pheno- 
 mena in some ancient period of time. But the cliffs 
 A a 3
 
 %i9 MINERALS AND FOSSILS. 
 
 in the eastern part of the country will give us no in- 
 adequate idea of the arrangement of the different 
 strata. A sort of limestone, that bears some re- 
 semblance to chalk, begins in the parish of Sal- 
 combe, runs through that of Branscombe, and extends 
 northward nine miles to Widworthy, and possibly 
 still further. At Salcombe Cliff, westward, where 
 this stone begins, it is very near the surface, being 
 covered only with a bed of red clay, mixed with flints, 
 about twelve feet thick. Here the limestone, which 
 lies under it, is in some places not above three feet 
 thick ; but in others twenty or thirty ; the surface 
 rising and sinking in different places, like mountains 
 and valleys. In this bed of limestone are lists of 
 black flints, which are usually apparent in chalk 
 quarries. This bed of limestone dips, and becomes 
 thicker as it goes to the eastward. At Branscombe, 
 where the largest quarry is opened, is a large head 
 upon it, which consists chiefly of white flints, with a 
 small quantity of reddish clay ; and the bed of lime- 
 stone is from twelve to thirty or forty feet deep, ac- 
 cording to the different rises and falls that are in it. 
 In some places are large masses of this limestone se- 
 parated from the rest, and entirely surrounded with 
 the flint and clay that form the head. As it goes 
 further eastward, it dips into the sea; and a quarry 
 of soft sand-stone rises above it. At Widworthy this 
 stone is nearer the surface, being undoubtedly a con- 
 tinuation of the same bed, as appears from the exact 
 resemblance of the stones to each other. Here, also, 
 the surface of the bed is undulated, and rises and falls 
 exactly in the same manner with beds at Branscombe 
 and Salcombe. 
 
 " The cliffs near Mary Church exhibit marble, not 
 only to a great extent, but of superior beauty to any 
 other in Devonshire; being for the most part either 
 of a dove-coloured ground, with reddish, purple, and 
 yellow veins ; or of a black ground, mottled with 
 purplish globules. In a valley below the clift', about 
 four hundred yards wide, there are loose unconnected
 
 illNERAl.S AND FOSSILS. 271 
 
 t-ncks of this marble, owing their situation, probably, 
 to the falling down of the «;round into the sea; for 
 there are very large marble rocks even on the beach. 
 The greater part of this coast is marble. On the 
 northern cliffs we may, in general, see the beds of 
 shelfy rock rising nearly perpendicular to the sur- 
 face. They appear in many places to have been 
 forced out of their rectilinear direction since their 
 first induration ; sometimes only by a small undula- 
 tion, and sometimes by the strata being broken off, 
 and turning up again in a different rectilinear direc- 
 tion. Wherever this alteration occurs, it has affected 
 all the adjoining strata equally : they are all moved 
 together. I had an opportunity at Hartland Quay of 
 observing the nature and course of these strata ; the 
 beds of stone here are broader and harder than usual, 
 some of them above three feet thick, and the thinnest 
 above six inches. Their direction seems to be to the 
 south-east : and for the most part, they are nearly 
 perpendicular to the surfiice. The strata observed 
 at the cliff, very often change their direction: in 
 some places they incline towards each other, tending 
 to the centre, in the shape of a wedge; and when 
 they come near to a point, the strata sometimes run 
 in a different direction, and forming a curve, descend 
 again towards the centre. Some of these strata abut 
 full in the middle of another layer ; some run on in 
 a straight line ; others form a curve. These sort of 
 strata frequently meet in a sharp edge on the summit 
 of the hills ; of which I obsen^ed an instance on the 
 hill over Swimbridge, in the upper road between 
 Barnstaple and South-Moulton, where the rock being 
 bare, and the strata almost uniting in a point, ex' 
 actly resembles a pavement*." This general account 
 of the dislocated situation of the strata, is a sufficient 
 proof of the violence of the changes which the 
 country must have undergone; though many otner 
 
 * History of Devonshire, vol. i. p. 49.
 
 272 MINERALS AND FOSSILS. 
 
 circumstances, in corroboration of the same fact, 
 could be adduced, if it were in any degree necessary. 
 In describing the minerals, we shall first mention 
 those belonging to the calcareous genus, as being 
 most abundant. Limestone, of almost every descrip- 
 tion, is found in diiferent parts of the county; and 
 many quarries have been opened, to procure it for the 
 purposes of building, agriculture, and ornament. In 
 the eastern part of Devon, it approaches to the 
 nature of chalk, and, in general, is scarcely suscepti- 
 ble of a polish : in other parts, particularly in the 
 South-Hams, it assumes the qualities of marble, and, 
 for hardness and beautiful veinings, resembles the 
 best marbles of Italy ; and when polished, is hardly 
 inferior in lustre. In the parish of South-Moulton, are 
 many quarries of black marble, variegated with small 
 streaks of white, which takes a fine polish, but is 
 mostly burnt into lime. Tlie marble which is not black, 
 is in general of a flesh-colour, having brownish veins of 
 ' different shades : this is most abundant in the north 
 of Devon. At Bickington, near Ashburton, are several 
 varieties: white, with pale brown streaks; pale red, 
 and ash-coloured, with white veins; black, with yellow 
 and white veins; and ash-coloured, with white veins 
 and yellow spots. At Deqbury, the marble is blue 
 and red; in the neighbourhood of Berry-Pomeroy, 
 finely variegated; at Plymouth, of a blackish grey- 
 colour, with white shades in concentric stripes, inter- 
 spersed with irregular red spots, and of ash-colour, 
 with black veins; at Mary-Church, of many varieties: 
 one kind resembling porphyry, very rich, of a dove- 
 coloured ground, pervaded with reddish, purple, and 
 yellow veins, intimately blended : another sort, with 
 a black ground, variegated with purplish globules, 
 called the Devonshire blood-stone : in some specimens 
 of this marble, are impressions of marine shell-fish; 
 and particularly of the ramifications of polipi. Gyp- 
 sura is obtained in various parts of the county, but is 
 not particularly abundant : near Plymouth, it appears 
 in union with the limestone; and is also found at
 
 MINERALS AND FOSSILS. 273 
 
 Salcoinbe-Regis, and many places in the limestone 
 dl^trict, south-west of Exeter. In the mines of Beer- 
 Ferris riuor-spar is procured in great plenty, and of 
 several varieties, both as to shape and colour : of 
 stellated spar, a specimen lias been found at Oxtoiv 
 near Ilaldun. 
 
 Ari;illaceous substances are abundant in almost 
 every part of the county. From South-Moulton to 
 Bideford, thence to Clovelly, and from Clovelly 
 along the western extremities of Devon, the clayey 
 soil greatly predominates. F'ine white pipe-clay is 
 found in abundance at W ear- Gi fiord, and in the 
 -valley between Morton and Petrokstow, it lies at the 
 depth of fifteen or twenty feet from the surface. In 
 the vale of King's-Teignton, pipe, and potters* clay is 
 procured in great quantities : sixteen or seventeen 
 thousand tons arc annually sent from Teitinmoutli, to 
 supply the pipe manufactories of London, Liver- 
 pool, Manchester, Bristol, Newcastle-upon-Tyne, 
 Sunderland, &:c. and the potteries of Newcastle- 
 upon-Tyne, Sunderland, Glasgow, and other places; 
 and ten or twelve thousand tons are annually sent 
 from the port of Teigmnoutli, to supply the potteries 
 of London, Liverpool, and other parts. In some 
 places, it is obtained within four feet of the surface; 
 in others, it drops twelve or fourteen feet, suddenly 
 rising and f.dling m the course of a few yards; the 
 thickness of the bed varies from five or six feet, to 
 twelve or fifteen: above it is generally a stratum of 
 coarse gravel, or loose stones. Of this clay, the best 
 is the purest white, and the black. In the parish of 
 Fremington, great quantities of reddish potters' clay 
 is obtained, and manufactured into various kinds of 
 ware at Bideford. Schistus is common to almost 
 every part of the county ; and consists of a great num- 
 ber oflaminse, differing in thickness, from three feet 
 to half an inch : most of the thin laminaR is very rot- 
 ten, quickly dissolving into mud ; but the thicker beds 
 are sometimes used in building. At Drevv-Steignton 
 it is of a black colour ; and being particularly hard^
 
 Sr-i MINERALS AND FOSSILS. 
 
 compact, and disposed in very tliick kiminae, is fre* 
 qiiently used for paving kitcliens and cellars, and 
 also for tomb-stones. A hard and coarse variety, of 
 a blue grey colour, is cleft out of the rocks on the 
 sea-coast, near Salcouibe-harbour, on a high-land 
 called the Soars. This is easily split, by wedges, into 
 slabs of any thickness, and to the length of ten or 
 twelve feet : its surface, w lien split, is smooth, yet 
 not even ; sinking and swelling according as the 
 laminae has been more or less comprest. In the east 
 of Devon are numerous quarries of slate, which is 
 also obtained of an excellent quality near Slapton 
 sands, and East-Alwington. Large quantities of good 
 slate are obtained at West-Alwington, and annually 
 exported to Holland, under the name of Holland 
 blue. The slate procured in Cann-quarr}', in the 
 parish of Plympton St. Mary, is much celebrated for 
 its strength and durability: the slate of Lamertonand 
 Tavistock is particularly hard and fine. 
 
 In the cilicious class are quartz crystals, which 
 have been found in various parts of Devonshire, but 
 generally very small. On Dartmoor they have been 
 sometimes met with, in the fissures of the -granite: 
 they have also been discovered in abundance in the 
 red soil, or rock, at Rougemont-castle ; and near 
 Samford-Spinney, in great plenty : their common form 
 is the hexagonal prism, terminating with two pyra- 
 mids. Some of the crystals obtained in the cavities 
 of this rock, are very pellucid. They shoot from an 
 opaque basis in all directions, and are generally hexa- 
 gonal, increasing from the size of a pin's head, to 
 half an inch in diameter. They are chiefly without 
 shaft, and present an irregular surface, studded with 
 hexagonal pyramids. Some, however, are columnar, 
 capped with a pyramid; and others have a parral- 
 lelopapidel, or riiomboidal shaft, with a pyramid at 
 each end. There are, likewise, some very curious 
 groups, in which each crystal shoots from a common 
 central point: the. whole forming an almost globular 
 cluster of pyramids. A section of the cluster ex-
 
 MINERAL^ AND FuSSILS. 275 
 
 hibits some similitude to a six-leaved polyanthus; 
 each leaf formed by a junction of the bases of an 
 acute, and an obtuse hexagonal pyramid; the long 
 acute pyramid is opaque, and hidden in the body of 
 the group ; the obtuse pyramid is brilliant, and ap- 
 pear on the surface. Araethistine quartz, finely 
 tinged, but of rude and irregular forms, has likewise 
 been found at Sampford. Flints exist in great abun- 
 dance, but particularly in the mountainous tract of 
 Haldon : here, in some parts, they are mixed with 
 a blackish fenny earth ; in others, they appear to cover 
 a limestone substratum; and in others, a stratum 
 of light-brown sand, which, at the .depth of two or 
 three fathoms, is concreted into a substance, of which 
 good whetstones are formed. The white flint is the 
 n:ost general; the black kind rarely occurs; but has 
 been met with on the cliffs at Beer. " That part of 
 Blackdown opposite Taunton, which appears to be 
 composed of beds of clay, loam, and strata of sand, 
 is remarkable for abounding in innumerable nmlti- 
 tudes of white flinty fragments, both intermixed with 
 the soil, and scattered over the surface ; these stones 
 are irregular and angular, and are of that species 
 called chert, or petrosilex. Some are light and 
 porous, from long exposure to the weather; others 
 more solid and resplendent, with numerous crystal- 
 lizations on their surface. On East-Down, between 
 Sidbury and Honiton, petrosilex is also found, with 
 the same external appearance, and often crystallized 
 in the same manner. The petrosilex is found like- 
 wise in the neighbourhood of Chudleigh, Henock, 
 and South-Bovey." The principal kinds of free-stone 
 are dug in the parishes of Salcombe, Branscombe, 
 and Beer. " That at Salcombe consists of a sandy 
 grit, closely united, rather coarser than the Portland- 
 stone, and very hard. It is used for the outside of 
 buildings ; works very easy in the quarry, and bears 
 the weather well, as appears by the cathedral at 
 Exeter, the outside of which is built of Salcombe- 
 stone i and though some of it has been erected 600
 
 S76 MINERALS AND FOSSILS. 
 
 years, yet it is very little, if at all, worn by the 
 weather. The free-stone of Beer is of a much softer 
 nature, and finer grit, than that of Salcombe : when 
 hewn out of the quarry, it cuts as soft as the Bath 
 stone, which it greatly resembles; all the vaulted 
 roof and ornaments, of the arches at Exeter cathe- 
 dral, are made of this stone." 
 
 Varieties of lava, here called iron-stone, whinstone, 
 and basalt, are found in different parts of the county, 
 and bear a striking resemblance to the Derbyshire 
 toad-stone: it exists, however, in the greatest abun- 
 dance in the neighbourhood of Exeter, and the entire 
 rock on which the castle stands has been considered 
 as volcanic. " That part of this rock which lies deep, 
 is very compact and ponderous, scintillates with steel, 
 and breaks alike in all directions. It has a granulated 
 bluish purple ground sprinkled with many minute 
 shining points. Its numerous fissures, crossing in all 
 directions, are filled with white hard veins of calcareous 
 spar. Above this the stone is more porous and light, 
 and without veins; its ground inclining to red, is 
 charged with numerous very small specks of white 
 calcareous spar; or, as has been supposed, of steatite. 
 Nearer the surface, it is still more porous, light, and 
 ruddy ; and the many white spots, now enlarged, are 
 filled with a soft chalky substance." The pores of 
 some varieties, which are in a state of decomposition, 
 are filled with a beautifully green malachite; in others, 
 the cavities apparently contain lumps of a black pow- 
 der, which, on examination by the microscope, with 
 powerful glasses, is discovered to be a mixture of fer- 
 ruginous crystals and in ochrey earth, strewed with a 
 few specks of chalk. " Out of the schistus near Cre- 
 diton arises a compact lava, of a purple colour, with 
 large crystals of felspar, and numerous crystals of 
 pellucid quartz and black mica, the cavities containing 
 farinaceous steatite : it does not effervesce with acids. 
 In this specimen it is remarkable, that the crystals of 
 felspar have cavities in them, and are filled also with 
 the steatite, like the rest of the stone." Specimens
 
 MINEUA.LS AND FOSSILS. 277 
 
 of basal tes have been obtained at Soutli-Bovey, Bi- 
 ^hop's-Teignton, and near Crediton. 
 
 Granite, called also moor-stone, as in Cornwall, is 
 met Avitli in various places, but particularly on Dart- 
 moor, where the mountains commence which extend 
 into that county. It generally lies in vast irregular 
 mai^scs : and is here found in great variety, both as to 
 texture and colour. Specimens of the red granite are 
 exceedingly beautiful when well polished. On ex- 
 posure to the atmosphere, it becomes extremely hard; 
 but when first raised, may be worked with less 
 difficulty. 
 
 The most remarkable of the inflammable substances 
 discovered in Devonshire, is the Bovey coal, the origin 
 of which has occasioned considerable discussion among 
 geologists. It is obtained in the extensive flat called 
 Bovey-IIeathfield, which appears to ha\e been for- 
 merly covered by the tide, and is supposed to be lower 
 than the level of ttie sea. Its strata run nine miles to 
 the southward, through the Heathfield, by Knighton, 
 Teigngrace, and Newton Marshes, to Abbots-Rers- 
 well, getterally keeping to the west of the beds of 
 potters' clay, winch range through various parts of the 
 Heathfield, and sometimes crossing them. " The 
 uppermost of the strata rises to within a foot of the 
 surface, under a sharp white sand, intermixed with an 
 ash-coloured clay, and under-lies to the south, about 
 twenty inches in a fathom: the perpendicular depth 
 of these strata, including the beds of clay with which 
 they are mixed, is about seventy feet. The strata of 
 coal near the surface are from eighteen inches to four 
 feet thick, and are separated by beds of a brownish 
 clay, nearly of the same dimensions, but diminishing 
 in thickness downward, in proportion as the strata of 
 coal grow larger ; and both are more compact and 
 solid in the lower beds. The lowermost stratum of 
 coal is sixteen feet thick : it lies on a bed of clay, 
 under which is a sharp green sand, not unlike sea- 
 sand, seventeen feet thick; and under that, a bed of 
 hard coarse clay, which has not been bored through." 
 Bb
 
 278 MINERALS AND TOSSILS., 
 
 From the thick bed of sand rises water of a vivid i;reen 
 colour, which is said to abound in sulphur and vitriol, 
 and is as warm as some of the Bath springs. In some 
 of the beds of clay are small and narrow veins of coal, 
 shooting through and forming impressions like reeds 
 and grass. The coal that is taken up for use, is ob- 
 tained from an extensive open mine (having an easy 
 descent for horses to bring up the produce), at the 
 west end of South-Bovey town. Its peculiar pro- 
 perties are thus described in Polwhele's History of 
 Devonshire. 
 
 " Though the substance and quality of the Bovey 
 coal, in its several strata, be much alike, and all in- 
 discriminately used for the same purposes, yet there 
 is some difference in the colour, form, and texture of 
 the several veins. The exterior parts, which lie 
 nearest to the clay, have a greater mixture of earth, 
 and are generally of a dark brown or chocolate co- 
 lour: some of them appear like a mass of coal and 
 earth mixed : others have a laminous texture; but the 
 laminae run in such oblique, wavy, and undulatory 
 forms, that they bear a strong resemblance to the 
 roots of trees. There are other veins of this coal, 
 which lie more in the centre of the strata, and abound 
 most in the lowest and thickest bed, the substance of 
 which is more compact and solid ; these are as black, 
 and almost as heavy, as pit-coal. They do not so 
 easily divide into laminae, and seem to be more 
 strongly impregnated with bitumen. They are dis- 
 tinguished by the name of stone-coal, and the fire of 
 them is more strong and lasting than that of other 
 veins. But the most curious vein in these strata is 
 that called the wood-coal ; which is sometimes of a 
 chocolate colour, and sometimes of a shining black : 
 the former sort seems to be less impregnated with 
 bitumen, is not so solid and heavy as the latter, and 
 has more the appearance of wood. It lies in straight 
 and even veins, and is frequently dug in pieces of 
 three or four feet long; and, with proper care, might 
 be obtained of a much greater length. Other pieces
 
 MINERALS AND FOSSILS. Q79 
 
 of the same kind are found lying upon them in all 
 directions, but without the least intermixture of earth, 
 or any interstice, except some small crevices, by which 
 the pieces are divided from each other. When it is 
 first dug, and moist, the thin pieces will divide like 
 horn; but when dry, it loses its elasticity, and be- 
 comes short and crisp. At all times it is easily sepa- 
 rated into very thin lamina3, or splinters, especially if 
 it lie exposed to the heat of the sun, which, like the 
 fire, makes it crackle, separate, and fall to pieces. 
 This fossil consists of a number of laminae, or very 
 thin plates, lying upon each other horizontally, in 
 which small protuberances sometimes appear like the 
 knots of trees; but they are only mineral nuclei, 
 which occasion this interruption in the course of the 
 lamina}; and pieces of spar have been sometimes 
 found in the middle of this wood-coal. Though the 
 texture of this coal is laminated, yet it does not ap- 
 pear to have any of those fibrous intersections, which 
 are observed in the grain of all wood. It easily breaks 
 transversely; and the separated parts, instead of being 
 lugged and uneven, are generally smooth and shining, 
 and even the course of tiie iaminai is hardly dis- 
 cernible. The fire made by this coal, is more or less 
 strong and lasting, according to its different veins : 
 those which lie nearest to the clay, having a greater 
 mixture of earth, burn heavily, and leave a large 
 quantity of brownish ashes. The wood-coal is said to 
 make as strong a fire as oaken billets, especially if it 
 be set on edge ; that the fire, as it ascends, may in- 
 sinuate between, and separate the lamime. But the 
 heat of the stone-coal is accounted the strongest, 
 though not sufficiently intense for the mines. When 
 this coal is put into the fire, it crackles, and separates 
 into laminjE, burns for some time with a heavy flame, 
 becomes red-hot, and gradually consumes to light 
 white ashes*. Though the transverse crevices made 
 * The small of the Bovey coal, when thrown on a 
 heap, and exposed to the weather, will take fire of 
 itself. 
 
 Bb 2
 
 280 MINERALS ANt) FOSSILS. 
 
 in it by tlie fire, ijive it the external appearance ot ?l 
 wooden brand, yet, if quenched when red-hut, the un- 
 consumed part seems to be almost as smooth and 
 soHd as when first put into the fire. The thick heavy 
 smoke ^hich arises from this coal when burning, is 
 very fetid and disagreeable; entirely different from 
 the aromatic scent of the bituminous loam which is 
 found adhering to it, but much resembling that of the 
 nsphaltuin, or bitumen of the Red Sea, That part of 
 the clay which lies nearest to the coal, seems to par- 
 take of its nature, being somewhat of a laminons 
 texture, and in a small degree inflammable: and among 
 tins clay, but adhering to the veins of coal, are found 
 lumps of a bright yellow loam, extremely light, and 
 so saturated with petrohum, that they burn like sealing- 
 wax, emitting a very agreeable and aromatic smell." 
 
 The basis of the Bovey coal is generally supposed 
 to be vast assemblages of trees, that have, in various 
 and distant ages, been washed by torrents from the 
 neighbouring hills; and on which, from time to time, 
 intervening beds of clay have been deposited. This 
 opinion is corroborated by the situation of the Heath- 
 field, which at some period was probably a morass, 
 and is almost encompassed by the secondary hills that 
 undulate at the feet of Dartmoor and of Haldon; and 
 likewise, by the lightness and appearance of the wood- 
 coal ; the nuclei found in it, and the laminse being 
 taken up in all directions, as if formed of trees laid 
 confusedly across each other. The argument for its 
 vegetable origiu may be still further strengthened by 
 comparing it with the Surturbrand of Iceland, and 
 the Piligno of the Italians, which are unquestionably 
 fossil wood ; and resemble the Bovey coal too nearly 
 to admit the supposition that the origin of the latter 
 can be different. The accurate Kiruan observes, that 
 it consists of wood penetrated with petrol, or bitumen, 
 and frequently containing pyrites, alum, and vitriol. 
 Its specific gravity is from 1.4. to 1.558: its propor- 
 tion of pure carbon, from 54. to 75. per cent. 
 
 ^' The production of coal from morasses/' it is ob-
 
 MINERALS AKD FOSSILS. 281 
 
 served by Dr. Darwin, in his Botanic Garden, " is 
 evinced iVoni the vegetable matters frequently found 
 in them, and in the strata over them ; as fern leaves 
 in nodules of iron-ore; and from the bog shells or 
 fresh water muscles, sometimes found over them ; and 
 is further proved from some parts of these beds being 
 only in part transformed to coal; and the other part 
 still retaining not only the form, but the properties of 
 wood. Specimens are not unfrequent in the cabinets 
 of the curious, procured from Bovey coal, near Exeter, 
 and other places." The particular species of wood of 
 which the Bovey coal vs^as probably formed, is sup- 
 posed to be the pine ; and a specimen, with the bark 
 remaining, is now said to be in the possession of Dr. 
 Cornish, of Totness. This opinion will be in part 
 confirmed from the following information, obligingly 
 communicated by Mr. John Pering, of Rockford. 
 '* On examining the appearance of the ground about 
 one hundred yards from the pits,*' observes this gen- 
 tleman, " I ^\ as struck with what appeared to me a 
 very material circumstance, and of which it seemed 
 strange I had never before heard the slightest account, 
 either in conversation v»ith many who had been pur- 
 posely to examine the place as a curiosity, or in any 
 written or printed account. The fact is, I found, 
 just level with the Heathfield, numerous stumps of 
 trees, which appeared to have formerly belonged to 
 bodies of immense size. They were not dug up, but 
 fixed with their roots in their natural position. Their 
 appearance was much jagged ; but I do not recollect 
 any evident marks of the saw. I cut some pieces, a 
 few of which are now before me; they evidently have 
 been cut with the axe; and in colour, lightness, and 
 texture, strongly resemble deal. If so, the species of 
 tree was piobably the pinus syltestris, or Scotch fir." 
 Pyrites is obtained in various parts of the county, 
 and has not unfrequently been found in globular balls 
 of different sizes. A great number were met with a 
 few years ago in the schistus, near Chudleigh, lying at 
 some distance from each other. Several of them are 
 Bb3
 
 582 MINERALS AND fOSSlLS. 
 
 in the cabinet of P. Rashleigh, Esq. of Menabilly, 
 who has described thein as follows : " The balls which 
 I have, weigh from fifteen drams to five ounces. 
 They are nearly circular, and resemble military bullets 
 of the same weight: the outward coat is of a brown 
 rusty colour, composed of very minute angular crystals, 
 either triangular, or quadrangular: the inside is a very 
 solid shining substance of sulphur and iron, not ra- 
 diated, like the pyrites found in chalk-pits ; they are 
 embedded in a black hardened clay, which, from the 
 specimen I have, must have formed and hardened 
 about the pyritical ball after its formation. The 
 pyrite open and crack in the fire, but without noise, 
 or flying off. This fossil contains nearly one-third 
 sulphur ; the other two-thirds iron, and argillaceous 
 earth : it is nearly five times heavier than water." 
 
 The principal metallic substances of Devonshire, 
 are the ores of tin, lead, iron, and manganese. Gold, 
 silver, copper, bismuth, antimony, and cobalt, have 
 also been found, but in small quantities. The tin- 
 works were anciently nun>erous and valuable, but 
 have in a great measure been abandoned, the mines 
 of Cornwall being considerably more productive ; 
 though in the reign of King John, Devonshire pro- 
 duced greater quantities of tin than that county; its 
 coinage being set to farm at 100/. annually, and that 
 of Cornwall at no more than 100 marks. The im- 
 portance of its trade in tin, is, indeed, manifested from 
 its stannary courts, and coinage towns, of which there 
 are no fewer than four; Plympton, Tavistock, Ash- 
 burton, and Chagford. The members of tiiese courts 
 have the privilege, from time to time, and under the 
 direction of the Lord Warden, of choosing certain 
 jurats to meet in a general assembly at Crockern 
 Tor, in the midst of Dartrnoor; with power to make 
 Jaws for the regulation of the mines and stannaries. 
 " There are numberless stream-works on Dartmoor, 
 r.nd in its vicinities," observes iMr. Polwliele, " which 
 have lain forsaken for ages. In the parishes of Ma- 
 naton, King's-Teignton, and Teigngrace, are many old
 
 MINERALS AND FOSSILS. 288 
 
 tin-works of this kind, which the inhabitants attribute 
 to that period when wolves and winged serpents were 
 no strangers to the hills or the vallies. The Bove)-- 
 Heathfield has been worked in the same manner; and 
 indeed, all the vallies from the lieathfield to Dart- 
 moor bear the traces of bhodding and streaming ; 
 which, I doubt not, was either Britisli or Phenician. 
 Lead was also familiar to the western Britons. That 
 the Danmonians had iron-works, is plain from Caesar, 
 who mentions the exigua copia of our iron in tiie 
 maritime parts; the iron-pits of Blackdown were, I 
 conceive, originally British, and were afterwards 
 wcjrked by the Romans." 
 
 In the year 1667, a large loadstone was sent from 
 this county to the Royal Society, by Dr. Edward 
 Cotton, Archdeacon of Cornwall. It weighed sixty 
 pounds, and would move a needle at the distance of 
 nine feet ; but a part of it having been broken off, its 
 attraction did not extend beyond seven feet. Load- 
 stones have likewise been found at Brent, and also on 
 Dartmoor, but of an ini'erior quality. 
 
 The lead ore is chietly of a greyish blue colour, but 
 of several varieties. The potter's or tesselatcd ore, is 
 of a shining rectangular, tabulated structure, always 
 breaking into cubical granules: another kind, is of a 
 flaky, smooth, and glossy texture, breaking into more 
 ponderous fragmerits; and a third sort is very close- 
 grained; fracture, sparkling and uneven, and very rich 
 in silver; the latter variety has been obtained in 
 plenty at the Beer-Ferris mines. Some very rich lead 
 ore was discovered a few years ago near the surface 
 at Comb-Martin. Iron-stone is found in various parts 
 of the county, and in many varieties; yet does not 
 appear to be particularly rich in metal. JNntive silver 
 has been found in different substances, and in various 
 forms ; granular, filimentous, capillary, arborescent, 
 and crystallized : the lead mines at Conib-Majtin are 
 said to have produced it in great plenty in the thir- 
 teenth and fourteenth centuries: and that there were 
 formerly mines both of gold and silver in Devon, ap-
 
 284 MINERALS AND FOSSILS. 
 
 pears from various grants made in tlie reigns of 
 Edward the Third and Richard the Second, with a 
 reservation of the tenths to the church. Manganese 
 is chiefly obtained at Upton-Pyne, where it was dis- 
 covered between thirty and forty years ago. It does 
 not run in veins, but is spread in flat, irregular patches, 
 at no great depth from the surface ; and seems to 
 extend from Upton-Pyne, south-eastward to Iluxham, 
 and north-westward, to Newton St. Cyres. " It is 
 found in hirge rugged, irregular masses, and contains 
 great variety of crystallizations: some shoot irregularly ; 
 some are plane, and transversely striated ; others are 
 streaked, like the lead ore ; and others shoot into 
 liollows, crossing each other every way. The crystals 
 seem to be ihe metal in a pure state, and are not 
 equally advantageous with the calx, which contains a 
 larger proportion of pure air, the ingredient for which 
 it is chiefly valuable. It is employed in the potteries, 
 but principally in the glass-houses, where it is used to 
 discharge the colour imparted by the calces of lead, 
 and for other purposes. It has also been applied, 
 latterly, in preparing the oxygenated muriatic acid, 
 employed to facilitate the operation of bleaching. 
 From 150 to 200 tons are exported annually: the 
 general price is from liOs. to 3/. per ton, the price is 
 now from 41. to 12/. 12s. per ton; but its value is 
 continually fluctuating." Antimony has been found 
 in several places vvitlun the three parishes of Chud- 
 leigh, Hennock, and South-Bovey. It is mostly of a 
 dark lead-colour, lull of long shining needle-like striae; 
 of a close-grained texture, hard, brittle, and very heavy. 
 Cobalt, interspersed with numerous filaments of silver, 
 has been found at Sampford in considerable abun- 
 dance. About four tons of this cobalt was taken up, 
 and nearly 17001b. sold in London. Some of the 
 filaments of silver were almost of the size of a straw, 
 and about an inch and a half in length. 
 
 The extraneous fossils discovered in Devon are of 
 various species and descriptions. " They are gene- 
 rally embodied in marble, sand-stone, or flint; but
 
 MlXF.RALb AND FOSSILS. 'J3.> 
 
 rl-e rarely to be met with detached from the mass in 
 wtjjch tlioy have been immured, and of the perfect 
 Hgure of the original shell, unless the concretion has 
 been formed in the latter substance." On Haldon, 
 and in ti)e flinty strata of its vicinity, the tchinus is 
 frequently found : tubipores have been met with near 
 Newton Bushel, and shells of various species at Flen- 
 bin-y-Tort: many of the latter bear a perfect resem- 
 blance to some of the kinds brought from the West 
 Indies. " The most remarkable fossil that was ever 
 found, perhaps, in this county," says Mr. Polwhele, in 
 his History of Devon, " was lately discovered in a 
 bed of stiff clay, on Chapel Farm, in the parish of 
 Cruwys-JMorchard. It is called fossil-bacon : it is 
 certainly an animal substance: and, if I may form anj 
 judgment from a large specimen which I immediately 
 procured, I think 1 may safely pronounce it to have 
 been originally hog's-flesh ; but the bristles on the 
 piece in my possession must determiise the question 
 as to what animal the substance belongs. This piece 
 is very light, somewhat spongy ; mottled like mottled 
 soap, and evidently of a sebaceous nature. On a 
 sliglit chemical analysis, it was mostly soluble in spirit 
 of wine, while hot; but separated into white tiakes on 
 cooling, in whicti it resembles spermaceti ; but it was 
 easily convertible into soap on being boiled in a fixed 
 alkaline lixivium." 
 
 This singular fossil was thus noticed in tiie public 
 papers soon after the period it was discovered. " An 
 extraordinary discovery was lately made in a courtlage, 
 on a rising ground, belonging to Chapel Farm, in the 
 parish of Cruwys-Morchard, near Tiverton. The 
 bouse and estate are the property of Mr. Brooks, a 
 wealthy and respectable farmer, who resides there. 
 It was formerly a monastery belonging to the Au- 
 gustine Friars; and at the Dissolution of the religious 
 houses fell into the hands of the Cruwys's, from whom, 
 by various alienations, it came to the present possessor- 
 In order to convert a very tine spring into a pond, to 
 water the meadovva below, and also for the use of the
 
 286 M-INEllALS AND FOSSIJ^S- 
 
 cuttle, Mr. Brooks dismantled the courtlaiie, the iiii- 
 hays, sheds, &c. and began to sink an extensive pond. 
 When the workmen had sunk about ten feet from the 
 surface, the strata appearing in a natural state, they 
 came to a spongy matler; it appeared to be a very 
 tliick cuticle of a brown colour. They soon found 
 bits of bones, and lumps of solid fat, of the same 
 colour. Astonished at this discovery, one of them 
 ran for his master, who, upon viewing the place^ sent 
 for Mr. Sharland, a person of great experience and 
 practice as a farrier in the neighbourhood. It was 
 then resolved cautiously to work round the carcass; 
 and at last the complete body of a hog was found, 
 reduced to the colour and substance of an Egyptian 
 mummy; the flesli was six inches thick, and the hair 
 upon the skin very long and elastic. As the workmen 
 went on further, a considerable number of hogs, of 
 various sizes, were found in different positions ; in 
 some places, two or three together ; in others, singly, 
 at a short distance. Upon the bodies being exposed 
 in contact with the open air, they did not macerate, 
 nor reduce to powder, as is usually the case with the 
 animal economy, after lying two or three centuries 
 divested of air : perhaps this may be occasioned by 
 the mucilage of the bacon. This piggery continued 
 to the depth of twelve feet, when the workmen stopped 
 for the season, and the pond was filled with water. 
 The oldest man in the parish had never heard that 
 the ground had ever been broken; and, indeed, the 
 several strata being entire, renders it impossible to 
 conjecture from what causes this extraordinary phe- 
 nomenon can be accounted for. The family of Cruwys 
 have a complete journal of remarkable events which 
 have happened in the parish for three centuries ; and 
 not the least mention is made of any disorder which 
 could occasion such a number of swine to be buried 
 in such a situation, &c." 
 
 The mineral waters are very numerous, and chiefly 
 of the chalybeate kind ; though they have not in a 
 particular degree been appropriated to medicinal pur-
 
 r.DDYSTONE LIGIIT-IICL SE. 287 
 
 })oscs. The strongest springs of this description arise 
 at Gubb's Wall, near Cleave ; at Bella- iviarsh, near 
 King's-Teignton ; at Ilsington, in the vicinity of Ash- 
 burton; at Brook, near 'I'avistock; and at Bampton : 
 the spring at the latter place is said to be more strongly 
 impregnated with iron than any other in the county. 
 
 ADDITIONAL ACCOUNT OF EDDYSTONE LIGHT-HOUSE. 
 
 To tlie account already given, of the limestone rocks 
 of Plymouth, it may be added, that tiie Eddystone 
 rocks are a congeries of irregular masses, situated 
 about twelve miles and a half from the middle of Ply- 
 mouth Sound, and so exposed to the heavy swells 
 from the Bay of Biscay and the Atlantic Ocean, that 
 the waves frequently break over them witli incredible 
 fury. These rocks are a lamellar kind of granite, and 
 are supposed to have obtained their present appella- 
 tion from the great variety of contrary sets of the tide, 
 or current, as it flows among them from the different 
 points of the British Channel. 
 
 Tlie time of the tides here, that is of high and low 
 water, is nearly the same as at Plymouth : viz. 5} at 
 full and change of the moon. The common spring 
 tides flow from sixteen to eighteen feet ; and the 
 equinoctial tides from eighteen to twenty feet : neap 
 tides flow from eleven to twelve feet, and sometimes 
 to fourteen feet. The proper tinu! of sailing to the 
 Eddystone from Plymouth, is at hkh water; and the 
 most favourable wind is at norll.-west, as that wind 
 not only answers for the passage both ways, but being 
 a land-wind, it nmst blow very hard before it raises 
 any great sea at the Eddystone rocks. The landing- 
 place is on the east side of the House-rock : that reef 
 stretching north and south, becomes a pier to break 
 oif the sea from half ebb to low water, and from thence 
 till half flow; an interval of time, which, in fine 
 weather, is the best for visiting the Light-house. The 
 most unfavourable wind for either going or returning, 
 or for any other purpose, is at the south-west, it being 
 generally accompanied by a heavy sea.
 
 288 EDDY5T0NE LIGHT-IIOUS£. 
 
 The particular form and position of the Eddystone 
 rocks, is a circumstance that greatly tends to augment 
 the force and heij^ht of the seas wliich break over 
 them ; and, previous to the erection of the Light- 
 house, doomed many vessels to inevitable destruction. 
 They not only stretch across the Channel, in a north 
 and south direction, to the length of about one hundred 
 fathoms, but also lie in a sloping manner towards the 
 south-west quarter; and this sloping, or stiving, of the 
 rocks, as it is technicaily termed, does not cease at 
 low water, but still goes on progressively, so that at 
 fifty fathoms westward, there are twelve fathoms water; 
 iior do they terminate altogether at the distance of a 
 mile. From this configuration, it liappens that the 
 seas coming uncontrolled from the deep water, and 
 rather suddenly at last, though gradually meeting the 
 slope of the rocky bottom, are swelled to that degree 
 in storms, and hard gales of wind, as to break upon 
 the rocks with the most dreadful violence. Nor is 
 the eftect of this slope less sensible, in proportion, in 
 moderate v^eather; and it is frequently very trouble- 
 some even in calm weather; for the libration of the 
 water, caused in the Bay of Biscay, in hard gales at 
 south-west, continues in those deep waters for many 
 days, though succeeded by a calm ; so that, w hen the 
 sea is to all appearance smooth and even, and its sur- 
 face unruffled by the slightest breeze, yet those libra- 
 tions, which are called the ground swell, still conti- 
 nuing, and meeting the slope of these rocks, the sea 
 breaks upon them in a frightful manner. 
 
 The many fatal accidents which happened from 
 ships running upon these dreadful rocks, either in the 
 night, at high water, or in bad weather, occasioned a 
 strong desire of contriving some method of warning 
 mariners of their danger; and at length, in the year 
 1696, notwithstanding the insuperable difhculties which 
 seemed to attend the plan, Mr. Henry Winstanley, of 
 Littlebury, in Essex, engaged to erect a light-house 
 on the spot; and being furnished with the necessary 
 powers from the Triniiy-Housej under the authority of
 
 KDDYSTUKE LIGUI-HOUbE. 289 
 
 n Statute made in the reign of Queen Elizabeth, tor 
 " setting up nituks and signs tor the sea," lie imme- 
 diately commenced his undertakin^r. 
 
 Tliis gentleman was the Merlin of his day, and 
 *' Ijad distiuiiuished himself in a certain branch of 
 Mjechanics, the tendency of which is to excite wonder 
 and surprize. He liad at his house, at Littlebury, a 
 set of contrivances, such as the following: — Being 
 taken into one particular room of his house, and there 
 observing an old slipper carelessly lying in the middle 
 of the floor, if, as was natural, you gave it a kick with 
 your foot, up started a ghost before you: if you sat 
 down in a certain chair, a couple of arms would 
 immediately clasp you in, so as to render it ira- 
 pos^ible for you to disentangle yourself, till your 
 attendant set you at liberty: and if you sat down 
 in a certain arbour by the side of a canal, you was 
 f(jrth\\ith sent out afloat into the middle, from 
 whence it was impossible for you to escape till the 
 manager returned you to your former place." — Smea- 
 tons Na7-7atire of the Construct tun of (he Eddijatone 
 Light-house. 
 
 The building erected by Mr. Winstaniey, seems to 
 have been partly wood, and partly stone; but, from 
 the ditticultv and dan^jer of conveying materials to the 
 rock, and getting backwards and forwards from the 
 shore, it was not completed till the expiration of 
 somewhat more than three years. "The fourth year," 
 says this gentleman, "finding in the winter the eti'eccs 
 the sea had upon the house, and burying the lantern 
 at times, altiiough more than sixty feet high, early in 
 the spring, I encompassed the aforesaid building vvitli 
 a new work, four feet thickness from the foundation, 
 making all solid near twenty feet high; and taking 
 down the upper part of the first building, and en- 
 larging every part in its proportion, I raised it forty 
 feet higher than it was at first, and made it as it now 
 appears; and yet the sea, in time of storms, flics in 
 appearance, oyic hundred feci above the vane ; and at 
 'C c
 
 290 EDDYSTONE LIGliT-HOUSE. 
 
 times doth cover half the side of the house, and tlie 
 lantern, as if it were under water*." 
 
 The light-house, thus finisI^Ld, had more the re- 
 semblance of a Chinese pagoda, than of a structure 
 intended to resist the impetuous shock of overwhelm- 
 ing seas; and it was commonly said, that in time of 
 hard weather, such was the height of the waves, that 
 it was very possible for a six-oared boat to be lifted 
 up upon a billow, and driven through the open gallery 
 of the light-house. The public seemed decided in 
 opinion, that it would be one day overset by the 
 weight of the seas; yet the unfortunate architect him- 
 self, was so firmly convinced of its durability, that he 
 expressed himself fearless of encountering the most 
 violent tempest that could burst upon its walls. 
 These, as the event proved, were the deductions of a 
 mistaken judgment; yet the highest praise is certainly 
 due to Mr. Winstanley, for his heroic spirit, in com- 
 mencing a piece of work that had been deemed im- 
 practicable to execute. 
 
 This building remained till November, 1703, when 
 some repairs being necessary, Mr. Winstanley went 
 down to Plymouth to superintend the workmen. 
 When on the eve of departure for the rocks, some 
 friends intimating the danger to which the light-house 
 was exposed in such tempestuous weather, he replied, 
 He teas so well assured of the strength of his buildings 
 that he should only wish to be there m the greatest 
 storm that ever blew under the face of the Heavens j 
 that he might see what effect it would have upon the 
 structure. Most fatally for the architect, his favourite 
 wish was too amply gratified. W^hile he was there 
 with his workmen, and light-keepers, that dreadful 
 storm began which raged most violently in the night 
 ot the twenty-sixth of the month, and appears to have 
 
 * See " Narrative of the Building," &c. by Mr. 
 Winstanley, as re-published t)y Smeaton from a Per- 
 spective Elevation of the original Light-house.
 
 EDDY5T0NE LIGHT-HOUSE. 291 
 
 been one of tiie most tremendous ever experienced in 
 Great Britain, for its vast and extensive devastation*. 
 'J'he next morning, at day-break, the hurricane in- 
 creased to a degree unparalleled; and the light-house, 
 no longer able to sustain its fury, was swept into the 
 bosom of the deep, with all 'its ill-fated inmates. 
 When the storm abated, about the twenty-ninth, 
 people went oif to see if any thing remained ; but 
 nothing was left, save a few large irons, whereby the 
 work had been fastened to the rock ; and part of an 
 iron chain, which had got so fast jambed into a chink, 
 that it could never afterwards he disengaged, till it 
 was cut out in the year 1756. The liglit-house had 
 not long been destroyed, before the Winchelseaf, a 
 Virginia-man, laden with tobacco for Plymouth, was 
 wrecked on the Eddystone rocks in the night, and 
 every soul perished. 
 
 Though the great utility of a light-house on these 
 rocks, was apparent from the above, and many for- 
 mer accidents, yet a second was not commenced till 
 the year 1706, after the making of an act, vesting the 
 duties payable by shipping passing the light-house, in 
 the Trinity-house, and empowering the master, war- 
 dens, &;c. to grant leases. In consequence of these 
 powers, they agreed with a Captain Lf>vel, or Lovet, 
 for a term of ninety-nine years, commencing from the 
 day that a ligiit should be exhihited. Upon this 
 agreement, Captain Lovet engaged a i\Ir. John Rud- 
 
 * Mr. Pearce, a very old seaman, who died in 1780, 
 at the age of ninety-six, was standing on the barbican 
 steps at Plymouth, when Mr. Winstanley went off in 
 the Eddystone boat, two days before the gale. The 
 sky was very brassy, and looked as if a storm w^as 
 impending from the south-west quarter; so that every 
 person present intreated him not to go off; yet he 
 persisted, and became the victim of his misplaced 
 confidence in the solidity of the building. 
 
 t This vessel was the property of Sir J. Rogers, 
 Bart, of Plymouth. 
 
 C c 2
 
 292 EDDYSTONE LIGllT-lIOUSE. 
 
 yerd, then a siik-mercer on Lndgate-hill, as his engi- 
 neer and architect; and the event proved that the 
 choice was a good one; for though Mr. Rudyerd had 
 not been bred to any mechanical business, or scienti- 
 fical profession, liis natural talents svere adapted to 
 the work, and being assisted by the personal experi- 
 ence of Messrs. Smith and Norcott, both shipwrights 
 from the dock-yard at Woolwich, he erected a second 
 iight-liouse in a very masterly manner, so as perfectly 
 to answer the end for which it was intended. " He 
 saw the errors of the former building, and a\oided 
 them. Instead of a polygon, he ciiose a circle for 
 the outline of his building, and carried up the eleva- 
 tion in that form. His principal aim appears to have 
 been use and simplicity; and, indeed, in a building 
 so situated, the former could hardly have been ac- 
 quired in its full extent, without the latter. He seems 
 to have adopted ideas the very reverse of his prede- 
 cessor; for aJI the unwieldy ornaments at top, the 
 open gallery, projecting cranes, and other contri- 
 vances, more for ornament and pleasure, th^n use, 
 Mr, Rudyerd laid totally aside : he saw that how 
 beautiful soever, ornaments might be in themselves, 
 yet, when they are improperly applied, and out of 
 place, by affecting to show a taste, they betray igno- 
 rance of its first principle, judgment; for whatever 
 deviates from propriety, is erroneous, and at best 
 insipid*." 
 
 Mr. Rudyerd's building was commenced in July, 
 1706; and sufficiently completed to exhibit a light on 
 the twenty-eighth of July, 1708: the succeeding year 
 it was entirely finished. It must be observed, that 
 the surface of the house rock, which is the largest of 
 the group, slopes, or stives, from east to west, about 
 eleven feet in twenty-four, which w^as the diameter 
 
 * Smeaton. , Mr. Rudyerd, like his predecessor, 
 published a Narrative of the building of his light- 
 house, on a print representing it ; with the motto : 
 Furet natura coercet ars.
 
 EDDYSTONE I.IGIIT-IiOUSE. 293 
 
 of the foundation of the second liglit-house ; and is 
 witliin four feet of the extent of the greatest circle 
 that can be made upon the rock. This inclined sur- 
 face of the rock uas divided by Mr. Rudyerd into 
 seven ascents, or stages, on which the base of the 
 structure was fixed by iron bolts, or cramps; each 
 bolt weighing from 200 to 500 pounds, according to 
 their different lengtlis and substances. One end of 
 the iron bolts being fastened into cavities made in the 
 rock, a course of squared oak balks was laid length- 
 wise upon the lowest stage, and of a size to reach up 
 to the level of the stage above: upon these a set of 
 short balks were laid crosstcai/s, and upon the next 
 stage, a set compoiindcdly : the fourth set was placed 
 lengthwise, the fifth, crossways, &c. till a basen"jnt 
 of solid wood was raised, two complete courses higher 
 than tiie highest part of the rock ; the whole being 
 fitted together, and to the rock, as closely as possible; 
 and the balks in all their intersections with each other, 
 trenailed together. They were also fastened to the 
 iron cramps by large bearded spikes, or jag-bolts, 
 which were driven, through holes made in the former, 
 into the solid timber. 
 
 " In this way, by building stratum super stratuyn of 
 solid squared oak timber, which was of the best 
 quality, (and said to have been winter felled), Mr. 
 Rudyerd was enabled to make a solid basement of 
 what height he thought proper : but, in addition to 
 the above method, he judiciously laid hold of the 
 great principle in engineering, that weight is the most 
 naturally and effectually resisted by weight. He con- 
 sidered that all his joints were pervious to water; and 
 that, though a great part of the ground-joint of the 
 whole mass was in contact with the rock, yet many 
 parts of it could not be accurately so ; and therefore, 
 that whatever parts of the ground-joiut were not in 
 perfect contact, so as to exclude tlie water therefrom, 
 though the separation was only by the tb.irknees of a 
 piece of post-paper, yet, if capable of receiving water 
 in a fluid state, the action of a wave upon it edgewise 
 C Q 3
 
 294 EDDYSTONE I.IGHT-HOUSF.. 
 
 would, upon the principles of hydrostatics, produce 
 an equal effect towards lifting it upwards, as if it acted 
 inrnnediately upon so much aroi of the bottom as was 
 not in close contact. The more effectually, therefore, 
 to counteract every tendency of the seas to move the 
 building in any direction, he determined to interpose 
 strata of Cornish moor-stone between those of wood ; 
 and accordiui^ly, having raised his foundation solid, 
 two courses above the top of the rock, lie tlien put on 
 live courses, of one foot thick each, of the moor-stone. 
 These courses were so well jointed as the workmen of 
 the country could do it, to introduce as much weight 
 as possible into the space to contain them : they were, 
 Iiowever, laid without any cement ; but it appears that 
 iron cramps were used to retain the stones of each 
 course together; and also upright ones to confine 
 down the outside stones. Upon the five feet of moor- 
 stone, he then interposed a couple of courses of sohd 
 timber, which terminated the entire solid of the 
 basement*." 
 
 * Smeaton ; who also relates the following anecdote : 
 " Louis the Fourteenth being at war with England 
 during the proceeding with th.is building, a French 
 }>rivateer took tlie men at work upon the Eddystone 
 Rock, together with their tools, and carried them to 
 France ; and the captain was in expectation of a re- 
 ward for the achievement. While the captives lay in 
 prison, the transaction reached the ears of that mo- 
 iiarch : he immediately ordered them to be released, 
 and the captors to be put in their places; declaring, 
 that though he was at war with England, he was not 
 so with inankind. He therefore directed the men 
 to be sent back to their work, with presents; ob- 
 serving, that the Eddystone light-house was so si- 
 tuated, as to be of equal service to all nations having 
 occasion to navigate the channel between England • 
 and France." After this occurrence, the workmen 
 were protected by frigates, by order of Prince George 
 4if Denmark.
 
 EDDYSTONE LIGHT-HOCSF. 295 
 
 As the structure increased in heij^ht, and conse- 
 quently "as more out of the heavy stroke of tlie sea, 
 a less decree of strength and solidify would be equi- 
 valent to the latter, and therefore admit of a staircase 
 within the building, with a passage into it: a central 
 uell-hole was therefore began to be left on the timbers 
 which composed the uppermost course of the solid. 
 On this course Mr. Rudyerd again proceeded with five 
 moor-stone courses ; and afterwards with courses of 
 timber, and moor-stone courses, till he had carried 
 the building to the height of thirty-seven feet on the 
 lowest side; and liere, on a course of oak plank, three 
 inches thick, he made the floor of the store-room. 
 " 1'he upper part of the building, comprehending four 
 rooms, was chiefly formed by the outside upright tim- 
 bers, having one kirb, or circle of compass timbers at 
 each floor, to which the upright timbers were screwed 
 and connected, and upon which the floor-timbers 
 were rested. The uprights were also jag-bolted, and 
 trenailed to one another; and in tbis manner the work 
 was carried on to the height of thirty-four feet above 
 the store-room floor; and then tenninated by a plank- 
 ing of three inches thick, which composed the roof of 
 the main column, as well as served for the floor of the 
 lantern, and of the balcony round it. Thus the main 
 column of this building consisted of one simple figure, 
 being an e\eg?a\t frustrum of a cone, unbroken by any 
 projecting ornament, or any thing whereon the vio- 
 lence of the storms could lay hold; being, exclusive 
 of its sloping foundation, twenty-two feet eight inches 
 upon its largest circular base; sixty-one feet high 
 above that circular base ; and fourteen feet three 
 inches in diameter at the top. The whole height 
 from the lowest side of the foundation, to the top of 
 the ball which terminated the building, was ninety- 
 two feet. The lantern was an octagon, the external 
 diameter of which was ten feet six inches." The 
 quantity of materials expended in its consliuction, 
 was 500 tons of stone; 1200 tons of timber; 80 tons
 
 ^Q6 EDDYSTONE LIGHT-HOUSE. 
 
 ^f iron; 500 tons of lead; and of trenails, screws, and 
 rack-bolts, 2500 each*. 
 
 This building sustained the repeated attacks of the 
 
 * It seems, that for many years after the establish- 
 ment of this light-house, it was attended by two men 
 only ; and, indeed, the duty required no more, as the 
 principal part of that, besides keeping; the windows 
 clean, was the alternately watching Jour hours, and 
 Jhur hours, to snuff and renew the candles; each, at 
 the conclusion of his watch, taking care to call the 
 other, and to see him on duty before he himself re- 
 tired : but it happened that one of the men was taken 
 ill, and died; and, notwithstanding the Eddystone 
 flag was hoisted, yet the weather was such for some 
 time, as to prevent any boat from getting so near the 
 rocks as to speak to them. In this dilemma, the living 
 man found liimself in an awkward situation, being ap- 
 prehensive, that if he tumbled the dead body into the 
 sea, which was the only way in his power to dispose 
 of it, he might be charged with murder: this induced 
 him for some time to let the dead body lie, in hopes 
 that the boat might be able to land, and relieve him 
 from the distress he was in. By degrees, the body 
 became so offensive, that it was not in his power to 
 get quit of it without help, for it was nearly a month 
 before the attending boat could effect a landing; and 
 then, to such a degree was the whole building filled 
 with the stench of the corpse, that it was all they could 
 do, to get the dead body disposed of, and thrown into 
 the sea. Tliis induced the proprietors to employ a 
 third man ; so that, in case of a future accident, of the 
 same nature, or the sickness of either, there might be 
 constantly one to supply the place. This regulation 
 also afforded a seasonable relief to the light-keepers ; 
 for ever since there were three, it has been an esta- 
 blished rule, that in the summer, in their turns, they 
 are permitted each to go on sho e, and spend a month 
 among their friends and acquaintance." — Smeaton.
 
 EDDYSTONE LlGIIT-HOUSr, 297 
 
 sea, in all its fury, for upwards of forty-six years after 
 its completion, but was at length destroyed by fire; 
 an element, against which, no precautions had been 
 taken, because no idt^as of danger had been conceived. 
 " On the twenty-second of August, 1755, the work- 
 men returned on shore, having finished all necessary 
 repairs for the season ; between which time, and the 
 second of December following, the attending boat had 
 been several times to the light-house, and particularly 
 on the first of December, and had landed some stores, 
 when the light-keepers made no manner of complaint. 
 On themornine, liowever, of the second of December, 
 about two o'clock, when the lioht-keeper then upon 
 the vvatch, went into the lantern, as usual, to snuff the 
 candles, he found the whole in a smoke; and, on 
 opening the door of the lantern into the balcony, a 
 flame instantly burst from the inside of the cupola: 
 he immediately endeavoured to alarm his companions ; 
 but they being in bed, and asleep, were not so ready 
 in coming to his assistance as the occasion required. 
 As there were always some lantern buckets kept in 
 the house, and a tub of water in the lantern, he at- 
 tempted, as speedily as possible, to extinguish the fire 
 in tlie cupola, by throwing water from the balcony 
 upon the outside cover of lead : by this time, his com- 
 rades approachiuiT, he encouraged them to fetch up 
 uater with the leathern buckets from the sea; but as 
 llie height would be, at a medium, full seventy feet, 
 this, added to the natural consternation that must at- 
 tend such a sudden, and totally unexpected event, 
 would occasion the business of bringing up water to 
 go^on but slowly, 
 
 " Meanwhile!! the flames gathering strength every 
 moment, and the light-keeper having the water to 
 throw full four yards higher than his own head, to be 
 of any service, we must by no means be surprised, 
 that, under all these difficulties, the fire, instead of 
 being soon extinguished, would increase : but vshai put 
 a sudden stop to further exertions, was the following 
 most remarkable circumstance. As he was looking
 
 298 EDDY3T0NE LIGHT-HOUSE. 
 
 upward with the utmost atteiitioUj to see the direction 
 and success of the water thrown, (on whicb. occasion, 
 as physiognomists tell us, the mouth is naturally a 
 little open), a quantity of lead, dissolved by the heat 
 of the flames, suddenly rushed like a torrent from the 
 roof, and fell, not only upon the man's head, face, and 
 shoulders, but over his clothes; and a part of it made 
 its way through his shirt collar, and very much burnt 
 his neck and shoulders : from this moment, he had a 
 violent internal sensation, and imagined that a quantity 
 of the lead had passed his throat, and got into his 
 stomach. Under this violence of pain and anxiety, 
 as every attempt had proved ineffectual, and the rage 
 of the flames was increasing, it is not to be wondered 
 at that the terror and dismay of the three men in- 
 creased in proportion ; so that they all found them- 
 selves intimidated, and glad to make their retreat 
 from that immediate scene of horror, into one of the 
 rooms below, where they would find themselves pre- 
 cluded from doing any thing : they seem, therefore, to 
 have had no other source of retreat, than that of re- 
 tiring downwards from room to room, as the fire ad- 
 vanced over their heads*." 
 
 Early in the morning, the light-house was discovered 
 to be on fire by some Cawsand fishermen, and a boat 
 was immediately procured, and sent to relieve the 
 people, who were supposed to be within it in dis- 
 tress. This boat reached the Eddy stone rocks about 
 ten o'clock, after the fire had been burning full eight 
 liours; and in this time, the three light-keepers were 
 not only driven from all the rooms, and the stair- 
 case ; but, to avoid the falling of the timber, red-hot 
 bolts, &c. upon them, they had taken refuge in a hole, 
 or cave, on the east-side of the rock, and were found 
 almost in a state of stupefaction ; it being then low 
 water. The wind at this time was eastwardly, and 
 though not very strong, was yet sufficient to render 
 the landing upon the rock impracticable, or attended 
 
 * Smeaton.
 
 EDDYSTOXE LIGHT-HOUSE. 299 
 
 with the utmost hazard : it was with mucli difficulty, 
 therefore, that the raen could be taken into the boat; 
 but this being accomplished, the boat hastened to Ply- 
 mouth to procure them assistance. No sooner, how- 
 ever, were they set on shore, than one of them made 
 off, and no tidings ever afterwards were obtained of 
 him. This circumstance created some suspicion of 
 the fire having originated in design; but, as the pe- 
 culiar situation of the light-house " seemed to pre- 
 clude the possibility of its being burnt wilfully," Mr. 
 Smeaton attributed his flight, to that kind of panic, 
 which sometimes, on important occurrences, seizes 
 weak minds; making them act without reason ; and, 
 in so doing, commit actions the very reverse in ten- 
 dency of what they mean them to have, and of which 
 they afterwards have occasion to repent. 
 
 The late Admiral West, who then lay with a fleet 
 in Plymouth Sound, no sooner heard of the fire, than 
 he sent a launch, with several hands, and an engine ; 
 but the agitation of the waves round the Eddystone 
 rocks was so great, that nothing could be done in 
 stopping the progress of the flames ; and, after some 
 ineifectual attempts to play upon the building, the 
 engine-pipe was broken by accident. The fire was 
 in consequence left to its own course ; for the heiglit 
 of the sea prevented every endeavour to land. In the 
 succeeding days, it was observed, that the interposed 
 beds of timber were sufficient to heat the moor-stone 
 beds red-hot ; and that the whole mass became one 
 great body of red-hot matter. Nor was it till the 
 seventh of the month, that the joint action of the 
 wind, the fire, and the seas, totally completed the 
 catastrophe so fatally began ; and then left no other 
 evidence of the destruction they had made, than that 
 the greatest number of the iron cramps and branches 
 were left standing upright upon the rock. 
 
 The third and present light-house, as before ob- 
 served, was erected by the late ingenious Mr. Smeaton; 
 and by taking every precaution to ensure the stabiUty 
 of the structure, that the utmost attention to its situa-
 
 500 F.DDYSTONL LIGHT-IIOI'SE. 
 
 tion and use, could suggest, the wliole was completed 
 in the course of the years 1757, 1758, and 1759. In 
 this period, several violent gales l)ad been experienced, 
 but without damaging any part of the works; and no 
 accident had happened to any one concerned, durinii; 
 the progress of the building, by which the work could 
 he said to be materially retarded. The last stone was 
 set on the twenty-fifth 'of August, 1759; the height of 
 the main column, containing forty-six courses, was 
 now taken, and found to be seventy feet. 
 
 Between the latter end of August and th.e middle 
 of October, the lantern and cupola were erected, and 
 the whole edifice surmounted by a gilt ball. The 
 lantern is an octagon; the frame-work being com- 
 posed of cast iron and copper. On the night of the 
 sixteenth of October, when the light was exhibited in 
 the new light-house, a very great storm happened, 
 and the light-keepers observed that they felt a sensible 
 motion in the building ; but, from their experience of 
 its strength, they were neither agitated by fear nor 
 surprize. The whole time, from the conmiencement 
 of the fire which destroyed the second li^ht-hc^use, to 
 the re-kindling of the light, was three years, ten 
 months, and sixteen days. The whole tim.e of working 
 upon the rock, during the building of the present light- 
 house, was one hundred and eleven days, ten hours. 
 
 The outside and basement of this edifice is foimed 
 of granite; that kind of stone being more durable than 
 any other, and more competent to resist the action of 
 the sea : the interior is chiefly of Portland-stone. 
 Round the upper store room, upon the course of 
 granite under the ceiling, is the following inscription, 
 sunk with the point of a pick. 
 
 EXCEPT THE LORD BUILD THE HOUSE, 
 TJIEY LABOUR IN VAIN THAT BUILD IT. 
 
 Psahn CXXVII. 
 upon the last stone set up, being that over the door 
 of the lantern on the east side, are the uords, 
 24th AUG. 1759. 
 LAVS DEO.
 
 301 
 
 RARE PLANTS. 
 
 Scirpus Hulosch€mus, round cluster-headed club 
 rush: Braunton Borougjjs, 8, 11. 
 
 Scirpus setaceus, least club rush : near Plymouth, 
 7,8. 
 
 Lobelia urens, acrid lobelia : upon Kilmington Hill, 
 near the road two miles from Axminster towards 
 Honiton; and near Ottery St. Mary among heath. 
 This very rare plant flowers in September. 
 
 Corrigiola littoraUs, sand strapwort : Slapham Sands 
 near Dartmouth, 7, 8, 
 
 Ciatus polifolius, white mountain cistus : Bubbe- 
 combe, near Newton Abbot, 6, 7. 
 
 Melittis Melissoplii/llum, reddish bastard balm: 
 near Totness, 5, 6. 
 
 Melittis grandijlora, purple and white bastard 
 balm: near Ashburton, 5. 
 
 Sibthorpia europau, Cornish moneywort : borders of 
 springs, 7, 8. 
 
 Alj/ssum maritimum, sweeit alyssum : on the cliffs at 
 Budleigh-Salterton, 7. 
 
 Erysimum pracox, early winter cress : near Tcign- 
 mouth and Dawlish, 4, 10. 
 
 Silene acaulis, moss campion : hills on Dartmoor, 
 6,7. 
 
 Euphorbia Feplis, purple spurge : between Torquay 
 and Paington, 7, 8. 
 
 Euphorbia portlandicu, Portland spurge : near Ex- 
 mouth, 8. 
 
 Eryngium campestre, field eryngo : on a rock lead- 
 ing to the ferry from Plymouth into Cornwall, 7, 8. 
 
 Lavatera arborea, sea tree mallow : sea-shore, 7, 10. 
 
 Rubia pei'egrina, wild madder : rocks near the 
 bridge at Bideford, and near Exmouth, 6, 7. 
 
 Verbascum Blattaria^ moth mullein : sands about 
 Plymouth and Ashburton, 7. 
 
 'Hymenophyllum tunbrtdgenseSjTunhridi^e filmy-leaf: 
 rocks on Dartmoor. 
 
 Dd
 
 302 VOCABCLARY. 
 
 Targionia hypophijUa, dotted targlonia: banks or 
 ditches near Exnioutli. 
 
 Bupleurnin Odontites, narrow-leaved hare's ear : 
 rocks about Torquay, 7. 
 
 Chrysocoma Linosi/rls, flax-leaved goldy-locks : cliffs 
 of Berryhead, near Dartmouth, about 300 paces from 
 tbe westernmost battery, 8, 9. 
 
 A Vocabulary ; containing, for the most part, such 
 Provincial Words as are current among the Com- 
 mon People of Devonshire, 4"C. 
 
 The letter A is seldom pronounced open, but close, 
 as pallas, pallades. Thus it is Salter, not sawlter; 
 
 Acker (Sax.), acre. 
 
 Affeard, afraid. 
 
 Agast, afraid, astonished. 
 
 Agest, terrified (Exmoor dialect). 
 
 Ago, just gone, nearly dead; " the blue of the plum 
 
 is ago, zure." 
 Agging, egging on, raising quarrels. 
 Akether, quoth he. 
 Alkitotle, a silly elf. 
 
 All abroad, open ; " the door is all abroad." 
 Aller, a pinswell, whitioe. 
 Allernhatch, an old sore, a botch. 
 An, than; "more an zo," more than so. 
 Aneest, near ; " I wont go aneest en." 
 ApriWd, souerd, or turning sour. 
 Apurt, sullen, silent, with a glouting. 
 Ausney, to anticipate, look, bad news. 
 Aquott, squatted, weary of eating. 
 Ai'g, to argue, dispute. 
 Art, eight; arteen, eighteen. 
 Aslat, cracked, like an earthen vessel. 
 Asneger, an ass. 
 Avroar, frozen; or frosty.
 
 VOCABULAUY. 303 
 
 Azoon, soon. 
 
 Bak, to beat. 
 
 BariQy a gelt pig. 
 
 Barton, a large demesne. 
 
 Bate, to quarrel. 
 
 Be, for are; " I've a be up to vicarage." 
 
 Bed ale, ale brewed for a christening. 
 
 Being, because; " being it is so." 
 
 Bellyharm, the colic. 
 
 Ben, " to the true hen,^' soundly to the purpose. 
 
 Bee (ippen, a bee hive. 
 
 Begummers, an interjection, an asseveration. 
 
 Betuit, to upbraid, to repeat a matter past insultingly. 
 
 Bescunimer, to foul with dirty linen. 
 
 Bibble, to drink often, to tope. 
 
 Billiii, distracted mad. 
 
 Bin, because. 
 
 Bote, part, and past tense of to buy. 
 
 Bunt, a bolting mill. 
 
 Brack, flaw. 
 
 Blast, to miss fire of a gun. 
 
 Biver, to shake or quiver. 
 
 Blid, blood; " hlid an owns," an exclamation. 
 
 Bloggy, to be sullen. 
 
 Boostcring, labouring busily, so as to sweat. 
 
 Botcerly, blooming ; " a comely boxcerly woman." 
 
 Briss, dust; " I've got some briss in my eye." 
 
 Brudle, to suffer a child to lie till he's full awake. 
 
 Buckle, a struggle. 
 
 Buddled, suffocated. 
 
 Bulbagger, A scare crow. 
 
 Burley faced, pimply faced. 
 
 Caal, call. 
 
 Caaling, giving public notice by the cryer ; " I had it 
 
 cried." 
 Cawbaby, an awkward, timid boy. 
 Cham, I am ; " cham agest to ge in," I am afraid to 
 
 go in. 
 Chave, I have. 
 
 Dd2
 
 304 VOCABULARY. 
 
 Oe//, I Shall 
 
 diets, kittens. 
 
 Cfiilbfadder, a chilblain. 
 
 Chounting, taunting, scornfully reviling, or jeering. 
 
 Chun, a quean, a bad woman. 
 
 Chups, cheeks, chops. 
 
 Clathers, clothes. 
 
 Coander, a corner. 
 
 Cob, dob, mud, loam, and straw. 
 
 Cobb'd, " cobbed away." 
 
 Cobnut, pitching at nuts, a game. 
 
 Cockabel, an icicle. 
 
 Cockhedge, a quickset hedge. 
 
 Cockleerty cocklight; the dawn when the cock crowa. 
 
 Codglove, a furze glove to handle turf, &c. without 
 
 fingers. 
 Colbrand, smut in wheat. 
 Cole, any kind of cabbage. 
 Colt, indiscriminately, either sex. 
 Coltree, to be as playful as a colt. 
 Combe, a hollow between two hills, open at one end 
 
 only. 
 Comtnercing, conversing; " she never commerced with 
 
 him," i. e. " she never conversed with him." 
 Condiddle, to waste, convey away secretly. 
 Condudle, conceit. 
 Copper clouts, spatterdashes worn on the small of the 
 
 leg. 
 Copper finch, a chaffinch. 
 Cornish, verbactive, to use one tobacco pipe or glass, 
 
 by turns, among the whole company. 
 Clittj/j close. 
 Clitty bread, close bread. 
 Clitty gruel, with clots in it. 
 Clome, earthenware. 
 Clome shop, delft shop. 
 Clopping, lame, limping. 
 Clouted cream, that which rises on milk over a slow 
 
 fire.
 
 VOCABULARY. 305 
 
 Clum to, to handle, to pull about awkwardly; " doant 
 
 clum en zo." 
 Clume huzza, an earthen pan. 
 Clunt, to swallow. 
 Clut, glutted. 
 Co! cof an exclamation. 
 Coad, caudj unhealthy, consumptive ; cored like a 
 
 rotten sheep. 
 Coagerseend, a cordwainer's end. 
 Coaivarh/y a bed, to warm a bed with a warming pan. 
 Cornizcillen, a lapwing. 
 Corrosi/, a grudge, or ill-will. 
 Cortf caught. 
 CoiteUf to beat soundly. 
 
 Couch pawed, couch handed, awkward, left-handed. 
 Country, the natural strata of the earth. 
 Coure, a course of work; " 'tis thy com^e next." 
 Court lage, the fore, or back-yard of a house. 
 Cozcal, a fish woman's basket. 
 Cozvslop, fox-glove. 
 Cozing, or coozing, loitering, soaking. 
 Crazed, cracked ; " I've crazed the tea-pot." 
 Creem, to squeeze. 
 Creem, a sudden shivering or rigor. 
 Creen, to complain, to pine, to be sickly. 
 Creening woman a, one who complains, having little 
 
 to complain of. 
 Crcwdling, sensible of cold; " crewdling over the fire.' 
 Crewnting, grunting, complaining. 
 Cricks, dry hedge wood. 
 Crickle to, to bend. 
 Crii77e o'the country/, whole cry, or common report of 
 
 tlie neighbourhood. 
 Chrisemore, poor creature, or a child unchristened. 
 Crock, an iron pot, or boiler, an earthen vessel, or 
 
 jar. 
 Croom a little, or "Edgee a croom;'^ that is,, move a 
 
 little. 
 Cropeing, stingy, penurious. 
 Crowd, a fiddle. 
 
 Dd3
 
 306 VOCABULARY. 
 
 Crub, for crib, a crust of bread, and the wooden sup- 
 porters of paniers or bags on a horse. 
 
 Cruel, very, cruel good, cruel kind, sick, &c. 
 
 Crwnpling, a little knotty, or wrinkled apple, pre- 
 maturely ripe. 
 
 Cuckoe, the harebell. 
 
 Cuckold-buttons, the burs on the burdock. 
 
 Cuff', to cujf a tale, to exchange stories, as if con- 
 tending tor the mastery. 
 
 Culvers, pigeons. 
 
 Cunie, moss, the green covering on a pool, or well. 
 
 Custls, the schoolmaster's ferula. 
 
 Cleves, cliffs. 
 
 Chamer, a chamber or floor up stairs. 
 
 Clear and sheer, completely, totally. 
 
 Couth, to bane, applied to sheep. 
 
 Dab, an adept. 
 
 Dajffer, small crockery-ware. 
 
 Daggle, to run like a young child. 
 
 Dairous, bold. 
 
 Daps, the exact likeness ; " the very daps of him." 
 
 Dash and darras, the stirrup glass, or parting cup. 
 
 Dover, to fade like a flower. 
 
 Davered, faded. 
 
 Daucock, a silly fellow. 
 
 Deef, rotten, corrupted; " a deefnni.*' 
 
 Dere, to hurry, or frighten a child. 
 
 Dibben, a fillet of veal. 
 
 Diddling, tattling ; " always a diddling.'" 
 
 Dildrums, " to tell dildrums, and Buckingham Jen- 
 kens;" to talk strangely, and out of the way. 
 
 Dimmet, the dusk of the evening. 
 
 Dinder, thunder. 
 
 Disel and dasel, thistle. 
 
 Dishicasher, a water wagtail. 
 
 Dizzen, a dozen. 
 
 Do, to be do, to be done. 
 
 Docn, wet, damp bread. 
 
 Desperd, very, extremely. 
 
 Diddlecome, half mad, sorely vexed.
 
 VOCABULARY. 307 
 
 Dirsh, a thrush. 
 
 Dudder, to deafen witli noise, to reader the head 
 
 confused. 
 Dunck, deaf. 
 
 Doattie, to nod tlie head In sleep while sitting up. 
 Documenting, lecturing. 
 Doil, to dvvall, talk distractedly; <♦ to tell doilj talk 
 
 deliriously, as in a fever," 
 Doll, to toll; " the hell dolls." 
 Don and dojf, to put on and off. 
 Doodle, to trifle. 
 Dorns, door-posts. 
 Doucct pie, a sweet herb pie. 
 Doveth, " it doveth," it thaws. 
 Dozvl, the devil. 
 
 Drang, a narrow passage, lane, gutter, or wheel- rut. 
 Drashel, threshold of a door. 
 Drashal, a flail. 
 
 Drawbreech, " a muxy drawbreech,'^ a filthy jade. 
 Dreuling, or " drivelling away my time." 
 Dring, dringet, a crowd, press of people. 
 Drow, to dry, " drouy, dry weather." 
 Dubbed, blunt. 
 Dumps, dimmet, or twilight. 
 Ea7'n, to give earnest. 
 
 F.nrt, sometimes ; " eari one, eart another." 
 Eet a Toreoll, notwithstanding. 
 Ellem free, an elm tree. 
 Elong, slanting. 
 
 Elsh, new; "■ an elsh maid, an uncouth girl." - 
 En, a pronoun for hirn and it; " I told en, I bought en." 
 Es, ise, ish, used for I. 
 Eute, to pour out. 
 Eth, earth. 
 Fags, truly, indeed ! 
 
 Fudge, to 'fare— " How d^ye fudge? How d'ye fare." 
 Fang to, to take possession of; " Ifdng'd to that estate 
 
 last Christmas; I /ang'c? a child, or received a child." 
 Fast, the understratum of the earth. 
 Fend, to find.
 
 308 VOCABULARY. 
 
 Fineney, to mince ; " Zit down to table good now, 
 doan't yejineney zo." 
 
 Fitpence, fivepence. 
 
 Fitty, clever; " a vevy jitty fellow." 
 
 Flawy a sudden gust of wind that comes overland, 
 between the hills, towards the sea. 
 
 Flickets, flushes in the face. 
 
 Flopper, an under petticoat. 
 
 Flashed out^ dashed out. 
 
 Fore-right, " a fore-right man," a plain, honest man. 
 
 Forezcard, wilful. 
 
 Foreweened, difficult to please, huraorsome, applied 
 to children. 
 
 Forth, out of temper. 
 
 Forrel, of a book. 
 
 Frith, writh, underwood. 
 
 From, after. 
 
 Fudged, to contrive, to do. 
 
 Fump, " the whole /mw^ of the business," the upshot, 
 the principal matter. 
 
 Fu^tiluggs, a big-boned person, a great, coarse body. 
 
 Ganmer, mistress, an old woman. 
 
 Gatfer, an old man. 
 
 Grammer, grandmother. 
 
 Grumfer, grandfather. 
 
 Guddle, to drink greedily. 
 
 Galdiment, a great fright. 
 
 Gale-headed fellow, a heavy, stupid man. 
 
 Gale ey, or goiley, ground where springs rise. 
 
 Gallied, frightened; lo gully, to frighten. 
 
 G^and, ov ge'iider, go yonder. 
 
 Geozcering, quarrelling; " geoweri7ig and maunder- 
 ing all day," viz. scolding and grumbhng. 
 
 Giglot, a female laughing playfully or wantonly. 
 
 Girts, oatmeal, a corruption of groat, the oat with 
 the husk off. 
 
 Gill, a quart. 
 
 Ginged, bewitched. 
 
 Gint, a joint. 
 
 Gerred, or gorred, dirty, bedaubed.
 
 VOCABULAllY. 309 
 
 Hiiydigees, " in haydigeea,'" in high spirits, frolicsome. 
 
 Hoke, to wound with horns, to gore. 
 
 Hoop, a bullfinch. 
 
 Hulder, to hide or conceal, 
 
 Hulve, to turn over. 
 
 Hell, to pour. 
 
 Hend, to throw. 
 
 Kex, dry stalks. Some plants, as hemlock, &:c. are 
 called Kexies. 
 
 Kit, a tribe, collection, or gang. 
 
 — — a pack of shoemaker's tools. 
 
 Latch, fancy, wish. 
 
 Lie a bier, lie dead. 
 
 Lamiger, lame, crippled. 
 
 Lew, slieltered, defended from storms. 
 
 Linnners and Limbers, sliafts. 
 
 Lidden, a tale, theme, subject. 
 
 Longful, long, in regard to time. « 
 
 Leat, a water-course. 
 
 Mang, to mix. 
 
 Manchcy to chew, to eat. 
 
 Mecch, to play truant. 
 
 Meecher, a truant. 
 
 Mixeuy a dunghill. 
 
 Moot, to root out. 
 
 Moxe, a root. 
 
 Northering, wild, foolish, incoherent. 
 
 ISlot half saved, foolish. 
 
 Nummet or nimch, luncheon. 
 
 Ort, any thing. 
 
 Pig's looze, a pig's-stye. 
 
 Film, dust. 
 
 Pixies, or Pisgies, are represented in the traditions 
 of the Devonshire peasantry, as inhabitants of the 
 o;loomy recesses of caverns, &c., and as a race of 
 beings " invisibly small," whose pursuits and pastimes 
 have been thus delineated by the Muse of Coleridge, 
 who speaking in the character of the Pixies, says» 
 
 When fades the moon all shadowy pale, 
 
 And sends the clouds before the gale,
 
 310 VOCABULARY. 
 
 Ere morn, with living gems bedight. 
 Streaks the east with purple light, 
 We sip the furze-flower's fragrant dews, 
 Clad in robes of rainbow hues; 
 Richer than the deepen'd bloom. 
 That glows on summer's scented plume; 
 Or sport amid the rosy gleam, 
 Sooth'd by the distant tinkling team ; 
 While lusty Labour, scouting sorrow. 
 Bids the dame a glad good morrow, 
 Who jogs the accustomed road along, 
 And paces cheery to her cheery song. 
 
 But not our filmy pinion 
 We scorch amid the blaze of day. 
 
 When noontide's fiery tressed minion 
 Flashes the fervid ray; 
 
 Aye from the sultry heat 
 
 We to the cave retreat, 
 O'ercanopied by huge roots intertwin'd 
 
 With wildest texture blacken'd o'er by age; 
 Round them their mantle green the ivies bind. 
 
 Beneath whose foliage pale, 
 
 Fann'd by the unfrequent gale. 
 We shield us from the tyrant's mid-day rage. 
 
 When Evening's dusky car, 
 
 Crown'd with her dewy star, 
 Steals o'er the fading sky in shadowy light, 
 
 On leaves of aspen trees 
 
 We tremble to the breeze. 
 ^'eil'd from the grosser ken of mortal sight; 
 
 Or haply at the visionary hour. 
 Along our wild sequester'd walk, 
 We listen to th' enamour'd rustic's talk ; 
 Heave with the heavings of the maiden's breast. 
 Where young-eyed loves have built their turtle nest; 
 
 Or guide, of soul-subduing power, 
 Th* electric flash, that from the melting eye 
 Darts the fond question, and the soft reply. 
 
 Fulk, or pulker, a shallow place, containing water. 
 Quarrel, a square of window-gtass.
 
 VOCABULARY. 311 
 
 Ray J to dress. 
 
 Headship, confidence, trust. 
 
 Huddcrish, hasty, careless, rude. 
 
 Roller/, to rail. 
 
 Rowly a fair, or revel. 
 
 Sar, to earn, to get. 
 
 Shordj a gap in a hedge. 
 
 Soce! a plural in the vocative case, friends ! compa- 
 nions .' 
 
 Spry, to become chapped by cold. 
 
 Suentf even, smooth, plain. 
 
 Sicankum, to walk to and fro in an idle, careless man- 
 ner. 
 
 Skir, or scare'devil, a black martin, a swift. 
 
 Skrent, to burn or singe. 
 
 Skeer, to mow lightly over. 
 
 Skeerings, hay made in pasture-land. 
 
 Skram, to benumb with cold. 
 
 Skummer, a foulness made with a dirty liquid. See 
 liescianmcr . 
 
 Smeech, tine dubt raised in the air. 
 
 Su-aiit, proper. 
 
 Tallet, the garret, a room next the roof. 
 
 Tuck, a shelf. 
 
 Taffeiy, dainty, nice, delicate in the palate. 
 
 Tang, to tie. 
 
 Tilty, testy, soon offended. 
 
 Tine, to shut, to close. 
 
 Tut, a hassoc. 
 
 Tutty, a flower, a nosegay . 
 
 Tut'uork, piece-work. 
 
 Twily, troublesome, irksome. 
 
 Trapes, a slut. 
 
 Upsetting, a christening. 
 
 TJnray, to undress. 
 
 Vnket, dreary, dismal, lonesome. 
 
 Untang, to untie. 
 
 Vang, to receive, or earn. 
 
 Vaught, fetched.
 
 512 LIbT OF TOPOGRAPHICAL WORKS, kc. 
 
 Vinned, mouldy, or huinorsonie v%heii applied to chil- 
 dren. 
 Vlother, incoherent talk, nonsense. 
 Ward, to wade. 
 Washdish, a wagtail. 
 Wantf aniole. 
 Whop, a heavy blow. 
 Woodguistf a wood pigeon. 
 Zuty soft. 
 Zuundy, to swoon. 
 
 A List of the Principal Works that have been pub- 
 lishedj in illustration of the Topograph}/ and Anti- 
 quities of the County of Devon. 
 
 The Rev. Mr. Polwhele's Topographical Works 
 contain the largest and niost copious account of tiiis 
 county. He has already published three folio volumes, 
 and a small quarto, intitled, Historical Views of De- 
 vonshire. His History of Devonshire will be com- 
 prised in five folio volumes. 
 
 Magna Britannia ; being a concise Topographical 
 Account of the several Counties of Great Britain. 
 By the Rev. Daniel Lysons, A. M. F.R. S. &c. and 
 Samuel Lysons, Esq. late Keeper of His Majesty's 
 Records in the Tower of London : volume the sixth, 
 containing Devonshire. London, 1822. 
 
 Danmonii Orientalis Illustris, or the Worthies of 
 Devon ; a work, wherein the Lives and Fortunes of 
 the most famous Divines, Statesmen, Swordsmen, 
 Physicians, Writers, and other eminent persons, Na- 
 tives of that most noble Province, &:c. By John 
 Prince, Vicar of Berry-Pomeroy. Exeter, folio, 1701, 
 lately reprinted. 
 
 Memoirs of the Antiquities of Tiverton, &c. By a 
 Gentleman, 8vo. 17 12. 
 
 Historical Memoirs of the Town and Parish of 
 Tiverton, &c. By Martin Dunsford, Merchant. 
 Exeter, 4to. 1790.
 
 LIST OF TOPOGnAPIlICAL WORKS, 6cc. 313 
 
 The laws and Statutes of the Stannaries of Devon, 
 London, 1600, folio; at which time Sir Walter Raleigh 
 was Lord Warden. 
 
 Here foloyth the Conformacyon of the Charter per- 
 teyning to all the Tynners wythyn the Countey of 
 Devonshire, with there Statutes also made at Crocker- 
 yntorre, by the hole Assent and Consent of all the 
 sayd Tynners, in the Second yere of our Sovereyne 
 Lord Kynge Henry VIIL 
 
 Hereendcth the Statutes of the Stannary, imprented 
 yn Tavystoke, the XX Day of August, the yere of 
 the Reygne of our Soveryne Lord Kynge Henry VIH. 
 the XXVI Yere. God save the Kynge. Sixteen 
 leaves, 4to. 
 
 Snieaton's History of the Eddystone Light-House, 
 large folio, with plates. 
 
 Sir Wilham Pole's Collection towards a Descrip- 
 tion of Devonshire, was published in one volume, 4to. 
 1791. 
 
 A Complete History of all the Religious Houses in 
 the Counties of Devonshire and Cornwall, &c. by the 
 Rev. William Jones, A. 13. 12mo. 1779. 
 
 Picturesque Excursions in Devon and Cornwall, by 
 H. .Johns, and T. H. Williams, large 8vo. with Etchings. 
 
 The Chorographical Description or Survey of the 
 County of Devon, collected by the Travail of Tristram 
 Risdon, first printed in two volumes, 8vo. 1714; re- 
 published, in the same size, in 17^23. The second 
 volume of this edition was corrected from a more per- 
 fect MS. in the possession of the Rev. John Prince, 
 of Berry-Pomeroy. Some Portion of this Work has^ 
 been augmented, &c. by Mr. William Chappie, of 
 Exeter, under the title of A Review of Part of Risdon's 
 Survey of Devon, containing the general Description 
 of the County : with Corrections, Annotations, and 
 Additions, 1 vol. 4to. 1785. 
 
 A new edition of Risdon's Survey, with Additions, 
 was published in the year 1811. 
 
 Description of this Ciiy (Exeter), and of the Sundry 
 Assaults ;jiven to the same, by John Vowell, alias 
 i- e ■
 
 314 LIST OF TOPOGIIAPHICAL WORKS, &C. 
 
 Hooker, written in 1584; reprinted in vol. 11. of 
 llolincshed's Chronicle, and afterwards with otlier 
 Pieces by the same Author in 4to. under the title of 
 The antiquated Description and Account of the City 
 of Exeter: in three Parts, &c. 
 
 Remarkable Antiquities of the City of Exeter; 
 giving an Account of the Laws and Customs of the 
 Place, &c. by Richard Izacke, 8vo. 1677, and 1681, 
 reprinted in i731, 1734, and 1741. Some of these 
 were edited by his son, Samuel Izacke, Esq. who also 
 published an Alphabetical Register of Persons who, 
 by Will, 8cc. gave Money or Tenements, 6cc. for the 
 Relief of the Poor, &c. London, 8\o. 1736. 
 
 An Historical Account, with several Prints, of 
 Exeter Cathedral, published by the Society of Anti- 
 quaries, in large folio. I'he Historical Part by Dean 
 Lyttleton and Sir Henry Engleiield, Bart.; and the 
 plan. Elevations, and Sections from Drawings by Mr. 
 J. Carter. 
 
 A Topographical Survey of the Counties of Hants, 
 Wilts, Dorset, Somerset, Devon, and Cornwall. By 
 W. Tunnicliffe, Land Surveyor. 1791. 
 
 The following Numbers of the Phdosophical Trans- 
 actions contain Papers relative to this County: No. 23, 
 Account of a Loadstone fifty pounds weight, moving a 
 Needle at nine feet distance. No. 69, Observations 
 on the Mines. No. 204, Oliver's Observations on the 
 Lay Weil near Brixham. No. 424, Atwell's Account 
 of the same. No. 316, Dr. Bury's Method of manur- 
 ing Land with Sea Sand. No. 474, Dr. Huxham's 
 Description of a fine Stalactite, found at Catdown, 
 near Plymouth. In vol. LI. is Dean Miles's Descrip- 
 tion of the Bovey Coal. In vol. LXIV^ is Mr. Walsh's 
 Account of the broad Marine Torpedo, found in 
 Torbay. 
 
 Much miscellaneous information concerning this 
 county is contained in the following v.orks : 
 
 Marshall's Rural Economy of the West of England, 
 2 vols. 8vo. 
 
 Shaw's Tour tl rough the Western Counties, 8vo.
 
 LIST OF TOPOCUAPIIICAL WORKS, &.C. 315 
 
 Maton's Observaliojis on the Western Counties, 
 2 vols. 8vo. 
 
 Warner's Walk into the Western Counties, 8vo. 
 
 Gilpin's Observations on the Western Parts of 
 England, 8vo. 
 
 An Essay towards a History of Bideford. By John 
 Watkins, Bvo. 1792. 
 
 A Survey of the Diocese of Exeter, with a List 
 of the Parish Churches, &c. 4to. 1782. 
 
 A Review of part of Risdon's Survey of Devon : 
 containing the general Description of the County; 
 with Corrections, Annotations, and Additions, 1 vol. 
 4to. 1785. 
 
 A New Edition of Risdon's Survey, with Additions, 
 1811. 
 
 A New Guide to the five Watering Places, Teign- 
 mouth, &c. 1817. 
 
 A Walk round Mount Edgcumbe, with Alterations 
 and Additions. Plymouth-Dock, 1817. 
 
 A View of Plymouth-Dock, Plymouth, and the 
 Adjacent Country. Being a Description of every 
 object in the vicinity that can interest the Stranger, 
 or the Tourist. Plymouth-Dock, 1812. 
 
 A Succinct Account of the Lime Rocks of Ply- 
 mouth. Being the substance of several communica- 
 tions read before the members of the Geological 
 Society in London, and partly printed in their Trans- 
 actions. With ten Lithographic plates of some of the 
 most remarkable of the" Animal Remains found in 
 them. By the Rev. Richard Hennah, Chaplain to the 
 Garrison of Plymouth. 
 
 The Panorama of Plymouth; or. Tourist's Guide to 
 the Principal objects of Interest in the Towns and 
 Vicinity of Plymouth, Dock, and Stonehouse. By 
 Samuel Rowe, Plymouth, 1821. 
 
 Views, Maps, Plans, 4c. 
 'Plymouth Citadel was engraved by Mosley, from a 
 Drawing by Mace, in 1737; and by Rocque. 
 
 In the Archives of the Society of Antiquariesj 
 £e 2
 
 316 LIST OF TOPOGRAPHICAL WORKS, &c. 
 
 among the Drawings given by Bishop Lyttclton, are 
 the South Fiont of the old Guildhall, and the Saxon 
 Door-Case of the Castle at Exeter; and two Saxon 
 Fonts at Alphington and Stoke-Canon. 
 
 Views, by Buck, are, East View of Buckfastre 
 (Buckfastleigh) Abbey. View of Tavistock Abbey. 
 South-VVest View of Ottery Friory. East View of 
 Buckland Priory. South-East View of Frithelstoke 
 Priory. East View of Dartington Temple. Two 
 Views of Powderham Castle. South View of Berry- 
 Pomeroy Castle. South-East Vievv of Dartmouth 
 Castle. Tiverton Castle. And South View of Oke- 
 liampton Castle. 
 
 Exeter Cathedral. Hollar and Vertue engraved 
 small Views of it; and King, the West, North, and 
 South Sides. — The great West Window, executed in 
 Stained Glass, by Mr. \Villiam Peckitt, of York, was 
 engraved by Franker, 1769. — Engraved on a smaller 
 Scale by Coffin, in Exon. 1772. 
 
 A Ground Plot of Isca Dumnoniorum, in Stukeley's 
 Itinerary, Plates 73, 74. The Doctor makes mention 
 of an old Flan of Exeter, taken in thelitign of Queen 
 Elizabeth.
 
 INDEX, 
 
 Accident, a dreadful 298 
 Ackland, Sir Thomas 129 
 Admiral's Hard, the 192 
 Adulph, a giant - 14S 
 Agricultural societies 48 
 Anecdote of Queen 
 Elizabeth - 250 
 
 of Louis XIV, 294 
 
 Animal remains, an- 
 cient - 265 
 Antediluvian remains, 
 
 doubts of - 268 
 
 Anthony Church Town 224 
 Appledore - 125, 126 
 
 burrows, or 
 
 sand beach at - ib. 
 Ariosto, quotation from 210 
 Ashburton - 226, 227 
 Atlielstan, King - 73 
 Atonement, a weekly 14 9 
 Axminster - 118 
 
 Bampfylde Moore Ca- 
 
 rew - - 240 
 
 Banking houses - 37 
 Barnstaple - 127 
 
 Becket, Thomas a - 137 
 Becky Fall - 72 
 
 Beer and Beer Cove 101 
 Bere Ferris, church of 152 
 
 Alston - ib. 
 
 Berry head - 255 
 
 Berry-Pomeroy Castle 
 
 258, 259 
 
 Church 260 
 
 Bickley - - 240 
 
 Bicton, 103, 104 — resi- 
 dence of Lord Rolle, 
 ib. — church of - ib. 
 
 PAGE 
 
 Bideford, 121— church, 
 ib. — monuments, 122 
 — church-house, 123 
 — 'bead-houses, ib. — 
 abuses of charitable 
 institutions at, 124 — 
 local advantages at 125 
 Bishop Blondy - 75 
 
 Courtenay - 79 
 
 ■' Grandison - 76 
 
 Ouivil - 75, 76 
 
 Stapledon 
 
 76 
 116 
 
 Bishop's Teignmouth 
 
 Black and Rowe, Mes 
 sieurs 
 
 Blackdown 
 
 Blackstone Rock 
 
 Blatchford 
 
 Blockhouses, the 
 
 Boat-houses near Dock 188 
 
 Bovey, an ancient seat 
 of the Walronds 101 
 
 Bovey Brook - 262 
 
 Bovey coal - 277, 
 
 Bow 
 
 Bowen, Captain 
 
 Bradford-pool 
 
 Bradninch 
 
 Branscombe, its resem- 
 blance to an Alpine 
 village - - 101 
 
 Branscombe - 270 
 
 Breakwater, the noble 217 
 
 — — dimensions 
 
 of the - - 219 
 
 probable 
 
 expence of - 220 
 
 Brent Tor - 147, 149 
 E e 3 
 
 95 
 107 
 68 
 
 249 
 
 206 
 
 278 
 
 145 
 
 136 
 
 70 
 
 264
 
 INDEX. 
 
 PAGE 
 
 Bridges - - 57 
 
 Brixham Church Town 258 
 ' quay, ib. — 
 
 pier - - 254 
 
 Brockenden, the wrest- 
 ler - - 135 
 Brownson, Luckbridge, 
 
 and Inglebum - 255 
 Bruer, Lord - 263 
 
 Buckfastleigh - 226 
 Buckhorn, an excellent 
 
 relish - - 255 
 Buckland Monacho- 
 rum - - 149 
 
 monument of 
 
 Lord Heathfield at 150 
 
 of Francis 
 
 Henry Drake - 151 
 
 Abbey, the 
 
 seat of Sir T. T. F. 
 E.Drake - 152 
 
 Budleigh, or Bodley 95 
 Canals - - 45 
 
 Canns, the wrestlers 
 
 133, 134 
 Cams, or granite rocks 
 
 231, 232 
 Cave a, or kitvaen - 91 
 Cavern, an extraordi- 
 nary - - 248 
 Cawsand-hill - 67 
 Cemetery, representa- 
 tion of a Roman - 207 
 Chagford - - 68 
 Champernoune, Mr. 250 
 Champernounes, the 
 
 256, 257, 260 
 Chudleigh, 233— rock 234 
 Chudleigh, Sir George 91 
 Chumleigh, or Chim- 
 
 leigh - - 145 
 
 Churchill, the famous 1 19 
 Clays, various - 273 
 
 PAGE 
 
 234 
 
 ClifFord, Lord 
 Clifton, Dartmouth, 
 
 and Hardness - 252 
 Climate and soil - 41 
 Clovelly-court - 120 
 Clyst-house - 103,116 
 Coal produced by mo- 
 rasses - - 280 
 Coffleet - 246, 247 
 
 Collumpton, 264— 
 church of and mo- 
 
 numents 
 
 265 
 
 Colyton 
 
 102 
 
 Cornwood, 
 
 church 
 
 town of 
 
 249 
 
 Cottages 
 
 53 
 
 Countisbury, church of 
 
 143 
 County, general de- 
 scription of - 40 
 Crediton - 235, 236 
 Creedy-house - 236 
 Cremill passage, the 194 
 Cromlech, the only in 
 
 the county - 69 
 
 Crystals, quartz - 274 
 Culm trade, the - ^255 
 Dartingtou-house - 256 
 Dartmoor, forest of 
 
 228, 229 
 
 ' — prison 228, 230 
 
 mean height 
 
 of - - 232 
 
 Dartmouth - 251,252 
 Dawlish, 1 10 — im- 
 provements at - ib. 
 Den, the, or fashion- 
 able promenade at 
 East Teignmouth 114 
 Devonshire, the natal 
 
 soil of painters - 165 
 Diving-bell, observa- 
 tions on the - 182
 
 INDEX. 
 
 PAGE 
 
 Divisions, civil and ec- 
 clesiastical - 46 
 Dock, the double - ] B5 
 - gates - ib. 
 Dock-town, recent im- 
 provements at 188, 189 
 Dock, town of, by what 
 
 fortifications bounded 190 
 Docks, the various 185, 186 
 Drew Steignton - 6S) 
 Drogo, a Saxon - 117 
 Druidical remains - 141 
 Druids, chief seat of - 69 
 Ebford house - 93 
 
 Eddystone Light-house, 
 the account of - 215 
 
 stroyed - 296, 299 
 Edgcumbe Mount 193,194 
 
 Countess of 
 
 195, 209 
 
 Sir Richard 195 
 
 Eggesford - 145 
 
 Eltord, Sir W. and Miss 166 
 Enclosing - - 54 
 Englefield, Sir H. 75, 78 
 Enghsh and French 
 flower gardens, the, 
 
 207, 208 
 Estcot-house - 117 
 
 Ethelwold, King, pa- 
 lace of - 247 
 Exe, ferry over the - 95 
 Exeter, antiquity of, 72 
 — north and east 
 gates, 73 — situation 
 of, 74— cathedral at» 
 ib. — by whom be- 
 gun, ib. — plundered 
 and burnt, ib. — de- 
 scription of by the 
 Society of Antiqua- 
 ries, 76, 78— length 
 
 of, ib. — chapter- 
 house, 79^- organ, 
 ib. — painted glass, 
 ib. — tombs and mo- 
 numental inscrip- 
 tions in, 80 — city 
 and suburbs of, ib. 
 — castle and a cu- 
 rious ancient build- 
 ing, ib. — charitable 
 institutions and hos- 
 pital at, 81 — Bishop 
 of Exeter's palace, 
 ib. — New County 
 House of Correction, 
 81, 86— municipal 
 privileges of, ib.— 
 posts from, 87 — lite- 
 rary societies, ib.— 
 promenade beauti- 
 ful, 88 — markets 
 and trade, ib. — new 
 bridge and flour 
 mill, 89 — vestige of 
 conventual build- 
 ings at, 89 — chapels 
 and schools, ib. — 
 Devon and Exeter 
 Institution, 90 — ho- 
 tel and theatre, ib. 
 
 Exeter, the Duke of 25? 
 
 Exminster - 108 
 
 Exmoor, lately disaf- 
 forested - 131 
 
 Exmouth,93— the old- 
 est watering-place in 
 Devon, ib. — climate 
 and soil, ib.— medi- 
 cal aid at,94 -walk?, 
 markets, and hotels, 
 lb. — libraries, bath- 
 ing-machines, 95 — ■ 
 improvements at - ib.
 
 INDEX. 
 
 PAGE 
 
 Ejniouth, excursions 
 
 from - - 95 
 
 Fairs - - 34 
 
 Farms and farmers - 50 
 Faringdon-house - 116 
 Ferris fluor spar - 273 
 Filleigh Castle - 144 
 
 Fitzrobert, William 12G 
 Fleet -house - 251 
 
 Flints, diversity of - 275 
 Ford, a fair house - 261 
 Fortescue, Earl 129, 144 
 Fossil bacon, remark- 
 able - 285, 286 
 — — — wood, &c. 
 
 281, 282, 284 
 Free stone, principal 
 
 kinds of - 275 
 
 Fulford-house - 71, 72 
 
 park - 236 
 
 Gardens and orchards 55 
 Gittisham - 105, 106 
 Gnaton - 245 
 
 Granite, or moor stone 277 
 Godwin, Earl - 119 
 Golden, Martyn - 111 
 Goldsmith, Oliver - 244 
 Government House 191 
 Greenway, John and 
 
 Joan - 238 
 
 Gun, a Turkish - 192 
 Hackney coach fares 
 in Plymouth and its 
 vicinity - 212,213 
 Halhurton - 240 
 
 Kaldon-house - 91, 92 
 Haldown, the barrow on 90 
 Hamoaze - 187 
 
 Hareston - 246 
 
 Harris, Dr. William, 
 
 the biographer - 107 
 Hartland "point - 119 
 Abbey - ib. 
 
 PAGE 
 
 Harvest home customs 
 
 62,63 
 Hatherleigh - 146 
 
 Hays, the birth-place 
 of Sir Walter Ra- 
 leigh - - 96 
 
 Treby Hele, Esq. 248 
 
 Heathfield, Lord 150, 151 
 once a mo- 
 rass - - 280 
 Herring fishery, the 46 
 Hoe Lake - 1 99 
 Holsworthy - 66 
 Honiton - 106,117 
 Horses, mules, &c. - 56 
 Howe, Lord - 218 
 Hubba, the Dane - 125 
 Huel Friendship, a cop- 
 per mine - 147 
 Huel Jewel and Huel 
 
 Unity - - 147 
 Ilfracomb, 135 — pier 
 at, 136— account of as 
 a watering-place, ib., 137 
 Iron works, ancient 283 
 Isca Dunnionium - 73 
 Island, a rocky - 263 
 Italian garden, or oran- 
 gery - - 209 
 
 stanzas to - 210 
 
 Itinerary of all the di- 
 rect and principal 
 cross roads - 6 
 
 Ivy Bridge - 225, 226 
 Jump, village of - 193 
 Kenton - 308 
 
 Kent's Hole - 264 
 
 Kingsbridge - 251 
 
 Kitley - - 245 
 
 Knocker's Knoll - 193 
 Labour and labourers 54 
 Labour, estimate of the 
 powers of continued 181
 
 INDEX. 
 
 PAGE 
 
 I. ace-makers, the De- 
 vonshire, hardships 
 of - - 105 
 
 Lackington, Mr. - 96 
 Lampen, Mr, - 162, 163 
 Lamerton Church - 147 
 Land view, a most ex- 
 tensive - - lOO 
 Lava, varieties of - 276 
 Laywell, an ebbing 
 
 and flowing spring 253 
 Lead, British or Phe- 
 
 niciau - - 283 
 
 Learned and eminent 
 
 men - 63 
 
 Leases - - 51 
 
 Lifton, village of - 66 
 Light-house, the se- 
 cond at the Eddy- 
 stone - 292 
 Lime .rocks of Ply- 
 mouth, succinct ac- 
 count of - 267 
 Limestone dips - 270 
 Linmouth oysters - 144 
 Linton, 140— church of 143 
 Littleham - 95 
 Loadstone, a large - 283 
 Logan, or rocking 
 
 stone, the - 70, 228 
 Lopez, Sir Manasseh 152 
 Lundy Island - 120 
 Luppit - 107 
 
 Luscombe-house - II 1 
 Lustleigh Cleve - 68 
 Lydford and the bridge 146 
 Lympstone - 93 
 
 Lynham - - 246 
 Mamhead - - 109 
 Manadon-house - 193 
 Manganese - 284 
 
 Mansions, farm-houses, 
 &c. - - 50 
 
 PAGE 
 
 59 
 
 49 
 
 ,272 
 
 193 
 
 152 
 
 94 
 
 Manufactures 
 
 Manures 
 
 Marbles, various 267 
 
 Marine barracks 
 
 Maristow 
 
 Marpool-hall 
 
 MerUn, the,ofhisday 299 
 
 Metallic substances, the 
 principal - 282 
 
 Mice the, and the oy- 
 ster - - 227 
 
 Mill prison - 194 
 
 Milton, lines from and 
 to - 204, 205 
 
 Mineralogical substan- 
 ces, varieties of - 269 
 
 Minerals - 58, 59^ 265 
 
 Mineral waters 286, 287 
 
 Modbury - 248, 249 
 
 Monkton - 107 
 
 Moreton Hampstead 68 
 
 Morice Town - 193 
 
 Mort, valley of, or 
 Morthal - 137 
 
 Morwell Rock - 148 
 
 house - ib. 
 
 Mount Boon - 253 
 
 Mount Edgcumbe, de 
 scription of 
 
 Mount Wise 
 
 Musbury 
 
 Mutton Cove 
 
 Naturahst the, 
 rials for the 
 and 
 near Sidmouth 
 
 Newspapers 
 
 Newton Bushel 
 
 — _ Abbot 
 
 Ferrers 
 
 Poppletord 
 
 194,212 
 191 
 119 
 223 
 mate- 
 study 
 aniusement of 
 
 - 100 
 63, 66 
 
 260 
 ib. 
 245 
 103 
 245 
 
 - 228 
 
 Noss, the hamlet of 
 Nut Crackers, the
 
 INDEX. 
 
 PAGE 
 
 Nutwell Court - 104 
 Oakhamptou - 67, 146 
 Oreston, quarries at 267 
 Ottery St. Mary - 117 
 Oxton-house - 108 
 
 Oysters, a curious in- 
 cident connected 
 with - - 227 
 
 Peck-house, views from 99 
 Pickle Combe, valley of 
 
 199,200 
 Pixies, or fairies 234, 309 
 Plants, rare - 301 
 
 Plymouth, original 
 names of, 154 — si- 
 tuation, ib. — ancient 
 and modern districts, 
 1 55 — St. Andrev/'s 
 Church, ib. — Dis- 
 senting congrega- 
 tions at, 155, 156 — 
 theatre, ib. — Guild- 
 hall, ib. — RoyalHos- 
 pital,ib.— Citadel,ib., 
 157 — Victualling- 
 office, ib. — Stone- 
 house near, ib. — St. 
 Nicholas Island, 158 
 — harbours, ib. — 
 Royal Hotel, ib. — 
 law hbrary at, ib. — 
 Plymouth Institu- 
 tion, 159, 164— New 
 Custom-house at, 166 
 — steam packets, 167 
 — improvements, ib. 
 — Hoe, or Hawe, ib. 
 — charitable institu- 
 tions at, ib. — obser- 
 vations on the gene- 
 ral character of the 
 town and inhabi- 
 tants, 168, 171 — 
 
 ib. 
 
 222 
 
 PAGE 
 
 number of inhabi- 
 tants, ib. — Dock and 
 dock-yard, 174 — * 
 new chapel at, 175 
 — market-place, ib. 
 — bason at, 176 — 
 rigging-house, ib. — 
 the Camber, 177 — 
 Blacksmith's shop, 
 ib. — boiling house, 
 ib. — mast-house, 178 
 — Bunker's hill, ib. 
 — rope houses, ib. — 
 sea wall, 179, ISO- 
 jetties, or platforms 
 Plymouth, commercial 
 
 speculations of 
 manufacto- 
 ries at - ib. 
 rapid im- 
 provement in the arts ib. 
 Plympton, or Plymp- 
 
 tonEarle - 241 
 
 Plympton St. Mary 244 
 Poem on Dartmoor Pri- 
 son, by Mrs. He- 
 man - 231,233 
 
 Pomeroy,Thomas,Esq. 258 
 Pomerovs, the - 259 
 Port-hili - 125 
 
 Powderham Castle - 108 
 Powder magazine, the 187 
 Prince Town - 229, 230 
 Prospect, a delightful 
 
 and extensive - 102 
 Provincial words, a list 
 
 of - 28S, 302 
 
 Puslinch - 245 
 
 Queen Elizabeth and 
 Mr. Champernoune 
 Raleigh, Sir Walter 
 Rennie and Whidby, 
 Messrs. - 218 
 
 250 
 117
 
 INDEX. 
 
 240 
 
 127 
 
 192 
 
 ib. 
 
 PAGE 
 
 Reynolds, Sir Joshua 
 
 241,244 
 Rkrhardson on Paint- 
 ing 
 Richmond, Margaret 
 Countess of 
 
 Walk - 
 
 sea baths 
 
 Rivers - 42, 45 
 
 Roads and pack horses 
 
 55,56 
 Roborough Down - 1 93 
 Rolle, Lord 95, 96, 104 
 Royal Military Hos- 
 pital 
 
 ■ Hospital for sick 
 
 and hurt seamen - 
 Salcombe-hill, view 
 from 
 
 or the salt 
 
 vale 
 
 Scenery - - 60,61 
 Seamen, credulity and 
 
 prodigality of 
 Seaton, a small town 
 Sein drawing 
 Seppings, Sir Robert 
 Serpents, winged 
 Shaldon 
 Sharpham 
 Sharrow Grot 
 Ships of war, how laid 
 up in ordinary 181, 
 Shrink-hills, the 
 Shute and New Shute- 
 
 house 
 Sid, or Seed-lane 
 Sidbury, 104— thread- 
 
 lace made at 
 Sidford 
 
 Sidmouth, 96 — describ- 
 ed as a watering- 
 place, 97 — inns at, 
 
 AGE 
 
 193 
 
 ib. 
 
 100 
 
 ib. 
 
 170 
 102 
 113 
 188 
 229 
 
 112, 116 
 
 256 
 223 
 
 182 
 240 
 
 102 
 101 
 
 105 
 
 104 
 
 97 — hotels, ib. — 
 coaches and conve- 
 niences, ib. — church 
 and charitable socie- 
 ties - - 99 
 Silver and gold, native 283 
 Situation, a distressing 296 
 Slapton Lea - 253 
 Slate quarries - 274 
 Smith, Mr. on Diving 
 
 Machines - 182 
 Society and manners 62, 63 
 South Molten - 144 
 ■ service 
 
 performed by Wil- 
 liam Lord Martyn 
 at - - 145 
 
 Spinster's Rock, the 69 
 Spitchwick - 227 
 
 Spots, one of the wild- 
 est - - 61 
 Stag hunting - 130 
 Star Cross, village of 95 
 St. Budeaux - 153, 154 
 St. Mary Clyst - 103 
 St. Mary Ottery - 103 
 Stedcombe - 103 
 Stonehouse 157, 172, 173 
 
 bridge - ib. 
 
 Stones, the valley of 140 
 Storm, a dreadful - 299 
 Swimbridge, village of 144 
 Tavistock, 147-church, 
 148 — manufactures 
 at, ib. — improve- 
 ments, ib.— abbey 149 
 Tawstock - 1 27 
 
 Teignmouth, East and 
 
 West - 111,112 
 
 ,. house, ib. 
 
 — bathing-machiues 113 
 Thanckes, the seat of 
 Lady Graves - 224
 
 INDEX. 
 
 PAGE 
 
 Thomson's seat - 209 
 Tidwell - 95 
 
 Tithes - - 52 
 
 Titles conferred by the 
 
 county - - 39 
 Tiverton, 2S7, 2S8— 
 
 gloryofjib.— castleat 239 
 chalybeate 
 
 spring near - 240 
 Topographical works, 
 
 list of - - 312 
 Topsham - 92, 225 
 
 Torbay, port of 252, 253 
 Torpoint • 225 
 
 Torr Abbey - 263 
 
 Torquay - 262, 263 
 Torr Royal - 229, 230 
 Torrington - 126 
 
 Totness - 255 
 
 Tracey, Sir William de 137 
 Traine, an ancient seat 
 
 of the Swetes - 251 
 Towns, a table of the 
 
 principal - 4 
 
 Ugbrook - 234, 235 
 Up-Ottery - 107 
 
 Views, fine 
 
 60, 61, 6S, 92, 100 
 
 PAGE 
 
 Views, maps, and plans 31€ 
 Vocabulary, a, of pro- 
 vincial words - 302 
 Waggons, carts, &c. 57 
 Warleigh, ancient man- 
 sion-house of - 154 
 Waste lands - 49 
 
 Weights and measures 58 
 Weir-house, or trap for 
 
 catching salmon - 47 
 Werrington - 66 
 
 Weston-house - 101 
 Weston-mills - 187 
 
 White ale - 251,252 
 Whiteway - 233 
 
 Whitsand Bay - 223 
 Widdicomb, the moor 
 
 man - 134 
 
 Widowes- house, the 261 
 Wild men and wolves 229 
 Wolford- lodge - 106 
 Woodbury, 104 — castle, ib. 
 Woolcombe, H. Esq. 159 
 Work, two/or one, ac- 
 count of - 189 
 Worthies of Devon - 63 
 Wrestling in Devon- 
 shire -• 132, 133
 
 
 B 000 002 731 8
 
 ?si 
 
 ^^ 
 
 1