mm iS.t ^- ST. GEORGE TOMBLAND Past and Present. /I J, Past and Present. A Contribution to the History of a Norwich Parish. BY EDWARD A. TILLETT. AGAS GOOSE, RAMPANT HORSE STREET. I89I. Four Hundred Copies Printed. No._s30q3- TO THE REV. HENRY PICKFORD, M.A., OF CORPUS CHRISTI COLLEGE, CANTAB., (vicar of ST. GEORGE TOMBLAND), AND TO MY FELLOW-PARISHIONERS THIS LITTLE WORK IS DEDICATED BY EDWARD A. TILLETT, Tomblandj May nth, i8gi. 989509 veface. HAT can there be in the history of a small parish in a large city ? is a question which we can imagine sug- gests itself to the readers of our title page. Let us consider for one moment. The history of our country, of which, save for that of one or two dark periods, we are proud, is only the concentration of the record of myriads of events, very many of which have occurred in her parishes. Every parish throughout the United Kingdom must contribute more or less ; and in searching out its story is unfolded details (some very minute) which tend at least to illustrate the byways branching off as it were from the^ great highway. Whether our little work does anything in this direction we leave it to our readers to judge. It having been necessarily, to some extent, a compilation, we must here acknowledge our in- debtedness to BlomefiekPs History of Nonvu/i^ Kirkpatrick's Strals a7id Lanes of Norwu/i, edited li PREFACE. by the Rev. W. Hudson, M.A., and W. T. Bensly, Esq., LL.D. ; Palmer's Perlustratio7i of Great Yar- vioutk, The Proceedings of the Norfolk and Norwich ArchcBological Society^ L' Estrange' s Church Bells of Norfolk^ and other works. We must now give our thanks to those who have most kindly helped us ; to Mr. Frank Gray for the architectural description of the church and the plan with which he has generously fur- nished us ; also to Mr. and Mrs. Tallack, the former for some valuable and interesting information, and the latter for the pleasing view of the church, which forms an ornament to the commencement of our work ; to Mr. Churchwarden Gray for his general assistance; to Mr. Brett (Parish Clerk), for his courtesy at all times whilst making our researches ; to Mr. T. B. Butler of the Cathedral Close, who has been intimately acquainted with Tombland for considerably more than half a century, for helping us to elucidate questions relative to the immediate past; and to Mr. A. E. Rump, of Rampant Horse Street, who has rendered us much practical assistance. jSt ©^0rge iSomtkni) PAST AND PRESENT. ERRATA. Page 45, line 17. Add "street" after '' Conesford." Page 47, line 4. For "Rix" read '-'Nix." T. George being the patron saint, not only of all England, but of Norwich in particular, it is natural that two of our early city churches ^'"'^ should be dedicated to him. The Turks, who pay him great respect, point out a well in the territory of the Druses near to which they state our saint slew the dragon which was hastening to devour the daughter of the King of Beyrout. One of the earliest records of this achieve- ment is contained in a very ancient composition entitled " Horae Beatae Virginis secundum usum Sarum," which was formerly sung in Salisbury Cathedral. Tradition says that St. George was born at Lydda, "in the land of the Philistines," and there Richard Cceur de Lion, B ii PREFACE. by the Rev. W. Hudson, M.A., and W. T. Bensly, Esq., LL.D. ; Palmer's Perlustratioji of Great Yar- mouth^ The Proc€edi7igs of the Norfolk and Norwich ArchcBo logical Society^ L'E strange' s Church Bells of Norfolk, and other works. We must now give our thanks to those who have most kindly helped us ; to Mr. Frank Gray for the architectural description of the church and the plan with which he has generously fur- nished us ; also to Mr. and Mrs. Tallack, the former for some valuable and interesting information, and T- """^ «Jl«*HH,V_,VJ. VVlUll Tombland for considerably more than half a century, for helping us to elucidate questions relative to the immediate past; and to Mr. A. E. Rump, of Rampant Horse Street, who has rendered us much practical assistance. jSt (3^0rg^ iSomtfeutr PAST AND PRESENT. CHAPTER I. T. George being the patron saint, not only of all England, but of Norwich in particular, it is natural that two of our early city churches should be dedicated to him. The Turks, who pay him great respect, point out a well in the territory of the Druses near to which they state our saint slew the dragon which was hastening to devour the daughter of the King of Beyrout. One of the earliest records of this achieve- ment is contained in a very ancient composition entitled " Horae Beatse Virginis secundum usum Sarum," which was formerly sung in Salisbury Cathedral. Tradition says that St. George was born at Lydda, **in the land of the Philistines," and there Richard Cceur de Lion, B 2 ST. GEORGE TOMBLAND : built a noble church to his honour, some portions of •which, rich in carving, still remain. — Porter's Giant Cities of Bashatiy p. i88. The parish of St. George Tombland is bounded on the north by those of St. Martin at Palace, SS.^ Simon and Jude, and St. Peter Hungate ; on the s'qiitfi by v*Sj:.» -•'Peter Permountergate ; on the east by ,•, ^l>e.;Brecioot6. of. the* Cathedral, St. Peter Permountergate, **'dii3* St. "Martin* at 'Palace ; and on the west by SS. Simon and Jude, St. Peter Hungate, and St. Michael at Plea. It is situate in the eastern portion of the city, and was formerly partly in Conisford Ward, and partly in that of East Wymer. It is now wholly in one ward, namely the First. Its population has varied from 722 in 1693 to 779 in 1 88 1. Though by no means a large parish it has absorbed those of St. Cuthbert, St. Mary the Less, and part of St. Mary in the Marsh, of which it has deprived the Cathedral authorities. Moreover, part of the Grey Friars' Monastery was added to it on its dissolution by Henry VIII., whose stern laws decreed that the Monas- teries should be no more. Tombland is surrounded by the parish to which it gives its name, but is not in its centre, as its situation is too north-easterly. What is the meaning of the word ? Some conjecture a "land of tombs," and we have heard more than one old citizen say this is proved by the fact that there was somewhere upon it an old grave- yard, and that a large number of human bones have from time to time been exhumed. Both these facts are true, for here stood the early church of St. Michael, with its graveyard, long before the foundation of our Cathedral ; in fact this latter erection caused the fall of St. Michael, and it may rightly be concluded that the owner of every human bone dug up on Tombland PAST AND PRESENT. 3 passed away before one stone of the Cathedral rose above the ground ; that is, at a date before or shortly after the Norman Conquest. Admitting the facts above given, we cannot arrive at the conclusion that it was a " land of tombs," for in Saxon or pre-Norman times few or no ton>bs were known in graveyards in England ; it is even difficult' to "fi'r^Ki, an ^a-r/y gravestone or sepulchral memorial in our churchyards. Our parochial surname has met'^with-many'*chafi'ges, for a list of which we are mostly indebted to Kirkpatrick 's work on the Streets and Lajies of Norzvich, so admirably edited by the Rev. W. Hudson, M.A., Vicar of the adjacent parish of St. Peter Permountergate, and W. T. Bensly, Esq., LL.D. The varieties which have come to our knowledge are Tombland, Tombelond, Thomelond, Tomlond, Tomland, Le Thomelond, de Tomelond, Le Tomlond, Tummelond, Tumlonde, Le Toomlond, Tume- lond, Tomlonde, Tumlond, Tombleland (Registers) " at the gates" (Blomefield and Cotton), sixteen in all. After so many interesting words it may be asked what do they signify ? This is not so easy to answer. Again referring to Kirkpatrick, the good old antiquary thought it might mean " Town land." It has been suggested that the name is derived from the Danish word " Tommer," which means empty or vacant land. If we remember rightly, that eminent archaeologist, Mr. Walter Rye of London, has made another suggestion, that our Tomble- land means sloping land. This is borne out by the fact that our church actually stands on sloping ground, and is described in the registers so late as 1626 and 1627 as St. George Tombleland. This view has been taken by many local antiquaries, and we adopt it. That Tombland was the earliest centre of the growing burgh, that is before Norwich was a city, wc learn from the lucid appendix (No. 3) by the Rev. W. B 2 4 ST. GEORGE TOMBLAND : Hudson, to Kirkpatrick's work above alluded to, and there is every indication to shew that it was so. Here was the palace of the Earl and the richly-endowed church of St. Michael, of which more anon. In the immediate neighbourhood was the meeting-place of the •men, of the . Hiuiidred, as is evidenced by the name of tlie"''church'olfSt.^ Michael de Motstow, now St. Michael af/!pl^gi''tK^ -site -fef' which in Saxon times was probably on Tombland, which" then doubtless had a much wider area than now. It is clear that to Tombland the Saxon streets of Conisford and Westwyck converged. Pottergate Street wended in the same direction as did Lower Newport (now St. Giles). Nedham or St. Stephen's Street could have never been planned with the intention of a route to the present Market Place, but passing over Hog or Orford Hill by the Back of the Inns the way deviates towards Tombland, which can be reached without turning a corner. Magdalen Street runs straight, not to the Market Place, but to Tombland, the ford of Fybrigge having to be crossed; other reasons are given by Mr. Hudson, but we have said sufficient to shew that Tombland was the centre of Norwich before the more modern Market Place was thought of Kirkpatrick describes " Tomland as a large piece of wast ground extending in length from north to south, which is broadest at the south end, narrow at the north end, and narrowest in the midst by reason of the houses which are built on the east side under the Precinct Wall of the Cathedral, but it is chiefly strcightened (narrowed) there on the west side by the churchy^ of St. George which runs very much eastward into Tomland (so as the East side of it is in a line with the houses lying next it northward unto Cook Row, [Wensum Street], and yet more by the row of houses w'^^ are built on y® East side of the Churchyard." PAST AND PRESENT. 5 On Tombland, as before stated, formerly stood the church of St. Michael. It was near its centre, and was one of the oldest, if not the very oldest, church in the city. In making excavations in front of and in proximity to the houses on the eastern side of Tombland, about midway between the two Cathedral gateways, many years since, workmen came upon some foundations which could have been none other than those of this church. Blomefield states that it had the largest burial-place in the city, and this is not unlikely, as by the numerous bones found it is clear that the churchyard extended as far as the south end of Tombland. The church was founded by the Earls of the East Angles before the Confessor's time, and was amply endowed by them. It was not parochial, but served as the chapel to their palace, which included the whole of the south end of Tombland and extended to the Castle Ditches. On the removal of the See from Thetford to Norwich Roger Bigot, Earl of the East Angles or Norfolk, granted St Michael's Church and the Palace to Bishop Herbert de Lozinga (the founder of the Cathedral), who totally demolished it and erected a stone cross with the image of St. Michael on its summit on the spot where the church stood. '' On Tombland," says Kirkpatrick, " there was a cross which stood near the N.E. corner, which was taken away in 1487. Item paid 3/4 to Rob*^ Moors, Carpenter, for pulling down of the high Cross w'^^ stood on the void ground called Tomlond against y^ Charnell" (now the Grammar School) ** and toward the corner of the s^ charnel called the North West corner, because decayed and in danger of falling through the Pageants of the Fraternity of St. George there made on account of their Procession." "Another Cross of Stone stood near the So. West 6 ST. GEORGE TOMBLAND. corner of Tombland, Crux sup le Tomlond, 13 Rich. II. It was called the stumped crosse in the time of Edw. IV. And now near the So. E* corner stands a large Building of Brick erected for a Cistern into w"=^ the water is brought from the New Mills by force of the water engines there, and serves for supplying the citizens with water conveyed into their houses by pipes of wood and lead. Under the cistern are several vaulted cellars." The Norfolk arid Norwich Remembrancer tells us " That the Water House on Tombland was taken down and the present (1822) obelisk erected in June, 1786." This was in its turn removed, and the present granite structure put in its place. As Tombland has a separate history of its own apart from that of the parish generally, we will, before taking a walk round, note a few interesting facts respecting it. CHAPTER II. ®Wa«itj0^ a0 t^ itj$ '^i&tovu* [OMBLAND has undergone in past days many turbulent vicissitudes, strongly contrasting with its comparative quiet in our own times. Centuries ago the city authorities and the prior and monks of the monastery of the Holy Trinity were at constant variance. To wade through the account of these quarrels, unless one is interested in the subject, would be tedious, still one or two notes relative thereto will be given in the pages following. Here in 1263 ''Henry Turnecurt and Stephen do Walsham were killed on St. Philip and St. James's Day. Inquisition was made by the coroners and set forth in a certain schedule. Afterwards came Master Marc de Bunhale, Clerk, and Ralph Knict, with many others, threatening the coroners to cut them to pieces unless the schedule was given up ; and then they took Roger the coroner and by force led him to his own house with swords and axes, until the said Roger took the same from his chest ; and they then took him with the schedule to St. Peter of Mannecroft church, and there the aforesaid 8 ST. GEORGE TOMBLAND : Ralph tore away the schedule from the hands of Roger and bore it away, and before his companions, in the manner of fools, cut it into small pieces ; and with much ado Roger the coroner escaped from their hands in great fear and tremor. The coroners say they cannot make inquisition by reason of the imminence of the war." The disturbance referred to probably arose out of the dissensions between the king and the barons. — Norf. Arch. ii. 260 ; Coroners' Rolls, Norw. On the 9th August, 1272, the city assaulted the monastery, but the Prior with armed men resisted by force. The citizens thereupon fired the great gates with wood and reeds, and amongst other warlike proceedings got upon the steeple of our church and threw fire with slings into what is now known as the Precincts. After a siege, during which the monastery buildings were for a great part set on fire and burnt, the citizens gained admission. The monastery and precincts were plundered of all the gold and silver holy vessels, &c., not consumed by the fire ; many monks were killed, and the others, except two or three infirm ones, fled for their lives. It appears that the commotion arose at Tombland Fair (then and for long after kept on Tombland in the old churchyard of St. Michael's on Trinity Sunday), between the servants of the monastery and the citizens, some on each side being killed. The contention arose in reference to a dispute as to whether Tombland and some other places belonged to the city or to the prior and monks, a dispute which raged for centuries. The city was shortly afterwards laid under an interdict by a Bull of Pope Gregory X., and, as was usual in those days, the civic had to bow to the ecclesiastical authority, and sue the Pope for pardon. It is said that thirty-four of the offenders were dragged about the streets till they died, others carried to the gallows and there hanged, drawn, PAST AND PRESENT. 9 and quartered, and their bodies afterwards burnt ; the woman who first set fire to the gates was burnt ahve. In about another decade a scene, though not of so tragic a nature, occurs. In 1285 (first week of Lent) one Walter Eghe or Eye was taken for stealing cloth from the house of Richard de la Ho, and for other thefts ; on the Wednesday following he was taken before the Bailiffs and the whole community of Norwich, and was condemned to be hung. He was hung accordingly, and appeared to be dead ; whereupon he was taken down from the gallows and carried in a coffin to St. George's church to be buried, when he was found to be living. He remained in the church for fifteen days, and was watched by the parishes of St. Peter of Hundegate, St. Mary the Less, St. Simon and St. Jude, and St. George, and then escaped from their custody. Judgment was given against the four parishes for his escape. After this he placed himself in the church of the Holy Trinity, and there remained until the king, at his suit, pardoned him. — Norf, Arch.y ii. 275 ; id. vii. 264. The above illustrates the right of sanctuary as prevalent in those days ; also is an instance of that most rare occurrence, resuscitation after hanging. In 1306, through the intervention of the king, an agree- ment, if such it may be called as it did not last long, was made between the convent and the city, some of the stipulations being that Tombland should be kept clear of all timber and everything laid on it, except at the fair (then held at Whitsuntide), so that it should not be used either for a market, or to lay timber on, or to make ropes on,* except on Sunday! when victuals, fruit, &c., may be sold at the Priory (Cathedral) gates ; and Tombland was * In 1658 leave was given to " Raph Upcroft to twister ropes in Tomeland two dayes in a weeke in such a place as is not piudicall to stopp the wayes or peoples passages before ther dores for w*^*" he is to paye to the city xii** a quarter." 10 ST. GEORGE TOMBLAND : to be measured so that at the fair time the citizens had half and the monks the other half. The citizens chose first, reminding us of later days, when at election times the Orange and Purples had half the Market Place, and the Blue and Whites the other half, with two chains across (the sheriffs' ** posse " between) to keep them from pugilism. The south end of Tombland, however, was to be as theretofore the place for the sale of horses and cattle, and we who live here at the present time are thankful it is not so now. Here in 1428 was witnessed a sad scene. John Beverley, alias Battild, was then for religion's sake sent by the Bishop's Commissary to the Castle to be kept in irons, and after his trial he was to fast with bread and water only on the Friday and Saturday next thereafter, and on the Saturday to be fustigated (beaten with cudgels) from the Bishop's Palace round by Tombland, and thence round the Market Place, holding a wax candle of 2d. price, which he was afterwards to offer to the image of the Holy Trinity at the high altar of the Cathedral, and then to quit the diocese for ever. In 1524 Cardinal Wolsey helped to arrange the unhappy differences between the city and convent, and in the latter part of King Henry the Eighth's time, he (the king) appears to have issued a pro- clamation that " during the said (Tombland) fayer to be holden from the rising of the sun on the Saturday next before the feast of Pentecost, till the Monday next after the feast of the Holy Trinity, all neat cattel and horses be bought and sold in the Castle Ditches and meadows there, and all sheep cattell in the streets of the citie as they have been accustomed, and all other chafery wares and merchandize at Tombland and in the Market, and if any man will sue by pleynt, &c., for any offence that shall happen to be done within the time of the said PAST AND PRESENT. II fayer, let him keep his day at the Guildhall of this citie before the steward of the same fayr this same Saterday at ten of the clock, and he shall be heard, God save the King." The fair, which in the memory of some living extended from Tombland to St. Martin at Palace Plain, we are informed gradually disappeared hence to the Castle Ditches. On Shrove Sunday, 1547, was here solemnized with " great rejoicings " the coronation of the sixth Edward. The great guns were brought to Tombland and often discharged, the populace treated with "plenty of beer," and bonfires, and in a great procession was a pageant representing the young Edward, then ten years old, as King Solomon, followed by the representation of a mermaid carried by two men. But Tombland was soon to see another sight, the clash of arms and stern war's alarms. The story of Kett's rebellion is too well known to need repeating here, and we have only to do with Tombland. Here Kett and his followers encamped whilst the Earl of Warwick (the royalist general) and his soldiers occupied the Market Place. The rebels appear to have gained some advantage through the ignorance of the royal troops as to the way about the city, and " three or four gentlemen " were slain, and buried at SS. Simon and Jude's. This aroused the ire of Warwick. Down came the " harquebusiers, young men of excellent courage and skill, who paid the rebels so home with a volley of shot, that they fled in a moment, leaving, it is said, one hundred and thirty dead ; and divers of them creeping in the churchyards were taken and executed." Kett, the reformer of too early a date, expiated his crime (?) on the summit of Norwich Castle, being drawn up alive from its base ; and Warwick, afterwards Northumber- land (father-in-law of Lady Jane Grey) a few years later was beheaded on Tower PI ill, also for high treason. 12 ST. GEORGE TOMBLAND : In Tombland Church very shortly afterwards was col- lected £s towards "ye gret charges ye cyte hade by reson of a comocion." They were strict in those days, for in 1550 Thomas Paterson, living in the Grey Friars, did not attend divine service. He was accordingly ordered by the Court of Mayoralty "to kepe his pishe chirche at Saynt George of Tumlond, and to here his dyvyne service ther, &c., and to paye all his duetyes ther accordingly/' and in the same year one Peter Lynacre, " stonding on the grene by the blokke, agenst the dore of the said Lynacre " on Tomlond, and being heard to say that the new mayor was a popish knave, was brought before the same court. Here on " Sondaie " the ist Oct., 1553, was a " bonefyer," and " oon barell of best bere, and oon dozen brede, and six gallons of wyne to be drunken by the poore, to celebrate the coronation of the first Mary." In this reign Cicely (aged 32), wife of Edmund Ormes of St. Laurence, passed over Tombland on her way to the stake at Lollards* Pit. She, one of the noble army of martyrs, was burnt, having said she would pledge them (her predecessors in martyrdom, whose execution she witnessed) in the same cup they drank of Her last words were, " My soul doth magnify the Lord, and my spirit rejoiceth in God my Saviour." On the 8th October, 1586, is reported an instance of church brawling, for Thomas Pope, glover, was "compleyned upon (before the Court of Mayoralty) for that he hath abused Mr. Melles, minister of St. George at Tomblond, and delivered him written in parchment these words, 'Asinus movet aures aut asinus ad Kiram,' which thing Pope being present cannot denye, and further Mr. Melles sayth that when he told Pope that he wold compleyn to the magistrates, then Pope said if he did so he wold trounsse him before the Bishop of Canterbury; and Pope PAST AND PRESENT. 13 being demanded who writ the said words he saith Peter Phillipps, Mr. Hopkyns' man, wrytt them. Also Mr. Melles informeth that Pope delivered the said writing in the chirch upon a Sabaoth day, saying, ' Here, asse, construe me the same': for which his demeanor the said Pope is corny tted to prison untill he fynde sureties for his good behaviour." On the 20th December in the same year hither came the Mayor and Aldermen in scarlet on horseback, with sword and gilt mace before them, and the Town Clerk with the Great Seal and Proclamation openly borne at his breast, and proclaimed Mary, late Queen of Scots, a traitor to Queen Elizabeth, our gracious Queen of this realm. On the 13th February following Mary was beheaded. The i8th June, 161 1, passed from a day of pleasure to a night of grief. It was the guild-day. A sumptuous pageant was prepared at the New Mayor's (Mr. Thos. Anguish's) Gate, now the entrance to Mr. Gray's residence and Mr. Allen's surgery, and there were fireworks in the evening, some of which exploding frighted the people so much that, they hurrying away, no less than thirty-three persons were trodden down and pressed to death. On which account, at a court held the 22nd of March following, it was ordered, in regard of that lamentable mishap that fell at the last gild by reason of fireworks, that no more be used on any feast or gild day, on penalty of ;^20. There is " nothing new under the sun," and " history repeats itself." Looking back about two hundred and fifty years, it was voted to unite St. Simon's, St. George of Tombland, and St. Peter Hungate ; a similar scheme was proposed and rejected in 1871 ; and another is before us at the present moment. In the stern days of Puritanism (1648) our church was honoured with the name of " the parish house," and the image of Christ upon it ordered to be taken down. The coronation of Charles II. was celebrated on the 14 ST. GEORGE TOMBLAND. 17th April, 1661, on Tombland, by the firing of the five brasse pieces onely, "twice before the feste in the morninge, and after the feste in the afternoone." The 1st June, 1667 "(being Trinity Fayre day), Mr. Mayor, and such Justices and Aldermen as wer present, and Mr. Sher. Crow, the Maior, Justices, and Aid. in scarlet, and Mr. Sher. in voyolet, went into the fayre with ye sword, mace, and capp of mayntenance before Mr. Maior, according to the ancient customes." On the 22nd May, 1675, it was ordered by the Court of Mayoralty, " That Mr. Maior and his Bretheren doe goe the procession of Trinity Fayer vpon Saterdaye next after the sermon at the Cathedrall." In March, 1668, there was a curious collection made in the church "for ye releife of Susan Hunter, whoe is to goe to London to be touched for y^ K' evill." We collected 26s. and ^\d. ; St. Peter Mancroft, i8i". ; and St. Andrew, 14.?. M. In 1672 the differences between the Cathedral and city authorities as to the "soyle" of Tombland appear to have been finally arranged. In the same year, the houses on Tombeland being " much shaken and damnified by the Fyreinge of the great gunns, it was ordered that for the future the Cannonier doe cause upon festivals the gunns to be drawne to and fyred on the Castle dykes." In 1733 Tombland was first paved, and in 1739, at the proclamation of the declaration of war againt Spain (made in this city on Tombland), the sheriffs for the first time appeared in their new chains. 1766 saw riots, a baker's shop on Tombland was pillaged. For this and other like offences two persons were executed. In thus approaching the end of the last century we will conclude by wishing that as our days are brighter than those of the past, so may the future be brighter still. CHAPTER III. ^ DIlTalh vo^m^ tlj^ ^avi&iy, N perambulating Tombland we cannot do better than follow Kirkpatrick, who commenced at the south-west corner, and tells us that the west part of the south end, now (c. 1720) the Popingay Corner, was called Ratun Rowe (1288 and 1303), Ratune Rowe (1291), Ratonesrowe (1327 and 1328), Ratonerowe (1303 and 1337), afterwards the whole of the south side Raton rowe (1456), and afterwards Rotten Rowe. The palace of Earl Roger Bigod, which stood here, was part of the exchange between him and Bishop Herbert, who pulled it down. The following gives such facts as we have been able to gather respecting the Popingay,* which stood at this south-west corner. This notorious and ancient inn or hostelry was situate on the south side of Tombland, at the corner of Conisford or King Street, and probably extended as far as the site of the present Inland Revenue * Mr. C. J. Palmer, in his Perlustration of Great Yarmouth, i. 326, referring to an Inn of the same name in that town, says *' the Popinjay or Parrot is an old sign long out of fashion. It meant the figure of a bird decorated with gaudy feathers suspended from a pole, at which marksmen practised as described in Old Mortality."^ l6 ST. GEORGE TOMBLAND : Office, in the direction of the Ethelbcrt gate. Mr. T. B. Butler, late of the Norwich Probate Registry, informs me that he can remember the two westerly- houses being one, before the late Mr. Woodrow, the predecessor of the present owners, rebuilt the premises. In 1330 it seems to have belonged to Roger Popinjay, in whose family it continued till Roger Popinjay (his grandson) turned the house into an inn, and in allusion to his own name gave it the sign of " the Popinjay " or Great Green Parrot, from which time it hath been a public-house to this day, it now (1742) being the Popinjay tavern, so says Blomefield (iv. 117). It does not follow as he states, that because it became Popinjay's Inn it then became a public-house, for lords, knights, and esquires in those days had their inns, which were their city houses ; portions of some of these, such as Middaies' Inn, the Norwich residence of Sir Walter Medyz, who lived in the time of Edward III., still remain. Blomefield (iii. 97) states that the site was granted by the Bailiffs and Commons in 1371 to Robert Popinjay, and was bounded on the east by a little lane called S eve-cote Row (this means the seven cottages row). The Popinjays, or Popjays as they are sometimes called, appear to have been sturdy civilians, for in 1381 Robt. Popinjay was one of seven citizens chosen as advisers to the Bailiffs in quelling the rebellion of John the Litester (or dyer), which took place at that time in Norwich, and doubtless in connection with that of Wat Tyler in London. Between the years 1371 and 1394 Robt. Popinjay six times filled the office of bailiff of the city, and in 1376-7 was M.P. In 1474 John Baly who owned the Popyngeay was buried in the church of St. Mary the Less, and gave a silver cross with a Mary and a John of ;^io value, and a candlestick and silver bason of ten marks, and two laton candlesticks of four marks, PAST AND PRESENT. 17 and two wax tapers to put in them, weighing five pounds a taper, to burn about the herses in the church, and at Easter about the Sepulchre. In 1 502 " Norwich was byrned with fire at twey times to the N cumber of eighteen score howsholdys and mor " ; but Blomefield states that 718 houses were burnt, and that, by what he had seen, the fire began near the Popinjay, which was burnt, and made the greatest havoc on the river side from Tombland through St, Andrew's, &a There are two deeds in the Guildhall, which not only confirm this account of the burning of the Popinjay, but also help us to the names of one or two other owners. By one dated 1523, William Crane, at the instance of Henry Aleyn, clerk, executor of the will of Joan Belle, late of Norwich, widow, conveyed to John Aleyn of Norwich, bellfounder, John HoUey, beerbrewer, and others, the tenement in St. Mary Little, formerly belonging to Robert Popyngay, which Agnes, widow of Thomas Drewe, had conveyed to the said William Crane in 1 506. By the other deed, dated 1528, the Mayor and Corporation confirmed to the said John Aleyn the tenement formerly of Robert Popingay, afterwards of John Hauk, then of John Bayly, and late of Robert Drewe, which the said Robert Popingay had by concession of the Bailiffs in 46th Edward III., and which is stated to have been burnt and "in cineres penitus conversum," anglice, entirely converted into ashes. The site of some of the buildings appears to have long remained in a state of dilapidation, unbuilt upon, for so late as 1553 is to be found in the Mayoralty Court Roll the register that Sir John Godsalve of London (son and heir of Thomas Godsalve of Norwich, Esq., deceased), and Elizabeth his wife, sold to Thomas King of Norwich, grocer, " quinque tenementa simul jacen vocat Ratten G 1 8 ST. GEORGE TOMBLAND : Rowe apud Tomplonde unum gardinu olim edificatu vocat le flower de lyce nuper Prions Ecctie Cathedralis Norwici & ejusd. loci conventus, ac totum illud capitale messuagium quondam edificatum cum gardin & ptin suis quondam vocat le popyngey et quondam Roberti Popyngey simul scituat jacen & exist, in Norw° in paroch. S. Marie de Marisco Sci Cuthberti & S. Marie Parve et super le Tomplonde p'dict, inter murum & scitum domus Ecct Cathedralis ibm et coem viam vocat Sevencote rowe ex pte orient, et regia via ex pte occid. abutt. super le Tomplonde v'sus aquil et super ortum sive gardin Thome Bemond * olim cimiterium S" Cuthberti versus austrum/' which being Anglicised reads : " five tenements lying together called Ratten Rowe at Tomplonde, one garden formerly a building called the Fleur-de-lys late of the Prior of the Cathedral Church of Norwich and the convent of the same place, and all that capital messuage formerly built with its garden and appurtenances, formerly called the Popyngey and formerly of Robert Popyngey, situate together lying and being in Norwich in the parishes of St. Mary of the Marsh, St. Cuthbert, and St. Mary the Little, and upon the Tomplonde aforesaid, between the wall and site of the house of the Cathedral Church there and a common way called Sevencote Rowe on the part of the east, and the Queen's Highway on the part of the west, abutting upon *le Tomplonde' towards the north, and upon the orchard or garden of Thomas Bemond, formerly the churchyard of S' Cuthbert, towards the south." On the 8th May, 1563, "Robarte Gyrdeler made request to Mr. Mayor and the resydue of his brethren, that it wolde please them to lycence hym that he might set up a geyne at that house wheare he now dwellyth, the syngne of the popinjaye w*^ the fflower de luce, and * M.P. for Norwich from 14th to 27th Eliz. PAST AND PRESENT. I9 that it may be sufferyd and lycensyd to be an In. This house consithering as well the honestie of the man as that the thing shalnot be preiudiciall nor hurtful! to eny good order heretofore made in this Worshipful! Cittie, have Lycensyd the sayd Robart Gyrdeler to set vpp the sayde Singnes of the popingay w*^ the flower de lewce when he shall thynke good." Robert Girdler had three children baptized and buried at St. George's between 1557 and 1570. In 1614 the Dean and Chapter appear to have had a tenant here named " Stefensun," and in 1620 we find Wm. Stephensun of Norwich, carrier, whose will is dated 30 January, 1620, and proved the 30th July following, giving his messuage in Tombland called " the Poppyngay " to Ellen his wife for life, and then to William, Richard, and Augustine, his sons, and Grace his daughter. One Henry, son of William Stephenson, was baptized here in 1587. A Matthew Stephenson was buried at Tombland in 1639, and one of that name wrote poems, published in 1673, about ''the popingay," and other local subjects, &c. We give those relating to the Popinjay. Upon a Dog call'd Fudle, turnspit at the Popinjay in Norwich. Fudle, why so ? some Fudle-cap sure came Into the Room, and gave him his own name. How should he catch a Fox.? He'l turn his back Upon Tobacco, Beer, French wine, or Sack. A Bone his Jewel is ; and he does scorn, With ^sop's Cock, to wish a Barley-corn. There's not a soberer Dog I know in Norwich, What a pox, wou'd ye have him drunk with porridge ? This I confess, he goes a round, a round A hundred times, and never touches ground ; And in the midle Region of the Aire, He draws a Circle like a Conjurer. C 2 20 ST, GEORGE TOMBLAND : With eagerness he still does forward tend Like Sisyphus, whose Journey has no end. He is the Soul (if Wood has such a thing), And living Posie of a wooden Ring. He is advanc'd above his Fellowes, yet He does not for it the least Envy get. He does above the Isle of Doggs commence, And wheels th' inferiour Spic by influence. This though befalls his more laborious Lot, He is the Dog-star, and his Days are hot. Yet, with this comfort there's no fear of burning, Cause all this while th' mdustrious wretch is turnings Then no more Fudle say. Give him no spurns, But wreck your tene on one that never turns ; And call him, if a proper Name he lack, A Four-foot Hustler, or a Living Jack. Upon a Country Parson and his Man, and a Parishioner whose Name was Ivorie. The Parson sued him 'cause he call'd him knave, For which poor Ivory 7 and (>d. gave ; And so at six and sevens they both drank on, That, e're they went away, they were quite gone. The seven and six pence so had Ivory stir'd. He could not give the Parson a good word. Nay, such a dose to his Temples gave, That, if he wou'd, he cou'd not call him knave ; And (what J cou'd have wish'd had not been true) The liberal dose silenc'd the Parson too. This hap, alas ! had never come to pass. Had but the Priest concluded with his Glass ; But Cvpper cupt so much, the Sack ran down All the neglected Preface of his Gown. So all be-butter'd too, as if (alack) The Priest had in his Stomack mull'd the Sack. His Man too drunk, w*^^ made him much the bolder Yet got no Sack, save one upon his shoulder : He reel'd about, and ran at every shelf. And neither knew his Master, nor himself. PAST AND PRESENT. 21 Ivory asleep fell down, and in the close, Did, for an Ivory, get, a scarlet Nose. They that before so great a noise did keep, Now slept, and in the rightest sense. Fox-sleep. The Popinjay one Fvddle had before. But when these three were there, then it had four. And while they slept secure, in came the Watch And does this pickel'd Congregation Catch. Upon the Vertuous Brown (I know who) at THE Popinjay. Lillies and Roses, let who will go sute ye, I'm for the lovely Brown, the lasting beauty ; Her cheeks are Roses, need no thorny fence. And there's no Lilly like her Innocence. Their blossoms are but slaves to every blast ; But she's the same when Spring and Autumn's past. Her May's Eternal ; She, when envious Time Shall be no more, Is then but in her Prime, She shall bid all these fading formes adieu, And Heaven and Earth shall for her sake be new. You see the outside of the Cabinet, But 'tis within her crowned graces set. Were you into an Angel but refin'd, You then might read the Mirrour of her mind ; Not but the luster of her lovelyer face, Need not, nay ought not to the best give place. Her thoughts are chaster than the Virgin snow ; Diana for a temple there might go. Arabian Odours have her bosome blest. The Phoenix there might come and find her Nest. Such, so all pure is her complexion known. Sweeter than Cinnamon, softer than Down. Nature in silence tells us to this brown. Not the World's eye has tan'd her, but her own ; Her sweet symmetrick looks that so controul, Are but the Mask and shadow of her Soul. Where all perfections to that height aspire, Women may envy, but Men must admire. 22 ST. GEORGE TOMBLAND : Upon a Token drunk at the Star, sent Me by Honest Tho. Ridland, at the Popingay in Norwich. I. A Token (Tom !) believ't 'twas kindly done ; It made us forthwith to Star Tavern run, To tast the Claret, from the Hogshead spun. 2. We washt it down, and bravely, ask Frank Barton, With t'other, t'other, t'other, t'other quart on, We only wanted thee (Tom) and Jack Wharton. 3. It was indeed a seasonable boon. Soon we concluded on't, and went as soon. And drank by S^ar-Wght all the afternoon. 4- Thou hast thy mind in Silver to me broken, For such, who always have me fairly spoken. And nothing sent, I value not a Token. 5- My Book I now do to the Press design, And take so well this kindness (Tom) of thine, As I'm in thy books, thou shalt be in mine. 6. I this, amongst the special favours rank. And, both the Bearer and bestower thank, For thou art Free (Tom) and the Bearer Frank. In 1658, one Wharton was the keeper of the same house and Edwin Bensley was the tapster there, as the following entry in the city books shows: — "7 August [1658], Thomas Mase, one of the Constables of North Conisford Warde, sayth vpon oath, vpon Lord's daye last was seaven night, he ^ his ptner went to the poppingiaye to see what company wer ther ^ one Edwyn Bensley, Tapster ther, said that when this informant ^ his ptner wer ther before he, the said Bensley sayde he had lost goods out of PAST AND PRESENT. 23 his howse and that he did not know but that this informant ^ his partner might have them ^ said he hoped ther would come a time when they might answer for them. And he further sayth that Edmond Wharton, sonne of the keeper of the same house did give bad langwage, ^ sayde he would not goe w*^ such fellowes as this informant ^ his ptner was, ^ did strike this informant." The next " mine host " we find, if we can judge of his strength by his Christian name, was a fit and proper one to deal with revellers and brawlers. He was Hercules Foster. We first meet with him in the register of the baptism of a son, " Augustin y^ son of ' Harklos ^ Elezebeth Foster,' bapt. from the popinjay y^ 17 of Desember, 1665," but it is doubtful whether he occupied the whole of the original inn, as about 1671 "Joseph Woolye, his wyffe, and child lived in part of the houses called Rotten Row, now the popinjay, in part of y*' house late Mr. Gary lived in." Foster's name more than once occurs in the registers between this and the date of his death in 1689 ; but he was only an occupier, as in 1670 the Popinjay was transferred from " Weaver to Oilman " (Mayoralty Court Books). A small slab, formerly in the south aisle, but now in the north porch, still remains to the memory of Hercules. In 1739 the house was transferred from Oilman to Howman Csee also Mayoralty Court Books), and in 1762 we learn from the same source that Charles Fearman of Norwich, grocer, and Anne his wife and Oeorge Maltby of the same place, merchant, and Mary his wife sold to William Riches of Norwich, merchant, " All that cap^ messuage called the Popinjay Inn or Tavern, formerly in three messuages and in the possession of Hercules Foster and Thomas Oibbs, gent. ; afterwards in the use of Thomas Launder, James Nasmith, and Isaac Collins ; 24 ST. GEORGE TOMBLAND : after that in the possession of Jacob Hatt, wine merchant, and late of John Wright, between the messuage formerly built by Sir William Denny, Knt, on the east ; and the King's Highway on the west ; the garden of Laurence Wood, gent, since of Thos. Allen, gent, sometime part of the Priory of Holy Trinity, and formerly of Richard Chamberlain, Esq., after of Thomas Warkhouse, Esq., and now of Charles Buckle, Esq. on the south ; and the place called Tombland on the north." Mr. Palmer, in his Perlitstration of Yarmouthy states that the last tenant was named Copley, and was said to have been the great grandfather of Lord Chancellor Lyndhurst. The Popingay is not mentioned amongst the Inns or Taverns in the parish rated in 1775, and must therefore have disappeared between 1762 and that date. The two most westerly houses on the south side of Tombland, which occupied what we consider the site of the Popinjay, were in 1783 the residences of John Slany, Esq. (at the corner) and James Alric, Esq., "a native of Geneva," who acquired a fortune while connected with Messrs. Harveys, manufacturers, of Norwich. He married Mary, daughter of John Morris of Yarmouth, and so became uncle to the celebrated Dr. Sayers of the Close, whose literary abilities were much appreciated in the early part of this century. We will here give a curious extract from the Mayoralty Court Books relating to a house in Ratton Rowe : — "23 August, 36 Hy VHL, John Coup beyng a wetcheman w* otherz seieth that on fryday at nyght laste paste aboute x of the clok ented in the house of oone thakker dwelling atte rattonrowe, and ther founde M' swetyng, Echerd, miller of Trouse, and John Glover, sitting ther togeder at supper, ^ told them that it was at that tyme of nyght tyme to kepe goode rule, ^ then M' Swetyng seyd agen here ys non but good rule kept, (x, then the seid wetcheman seid PAST AND PRESENT. 25 agen ther Is glover in yo^ compenye. Jt wer more mete for hym to be in bed than ther at that tyme, for he will disgrayes all the strete, ^ also that it had been more mete for the seid miller to have been in his bedd than ther, but if the goodeman of the house wold undertake for hym that he shal be forthecomyng tomorrow at vij of the clok before M' mayer then J have no more to say, but god be w* you." "At the south-east corner of Tombland, between a messuage formerly called Stonhall and the Precinct Wall, a lane runs south, passing the east end of the late St. Cuthbert's churchyard to the wall of the Grey Friais' precinct, whence it turns east unto St. Vedast's or St. Faith's Lane. This little lane was called Sevecote rowe (17th and 19th Edw. I., 46th Edw. III., 19th Hen. VIII.) Amerc. Lete de Wymer (19th Edw. I.) Robto. atte Brede quia coartavit viam regiam super Sevecote rowe, Ita qd. multum nocet equitantibus, iji-." Anglicised, Of Robert atte Brede, because he blocked up the royal way at Sevecote rowe so that it was very dangerous to horsemen, two shillings. "Amerc. Lete (49th Edw. III.), Robtus Papungay in tantum conculcavit & artavit regiam viam a Porta Prioratus usq^ ad Portam Minorf cum fimis suis & foeditatibus & nullus valet ibi transire, i marc ;" which being Anglicised reads, Robert Papungay contracted and blocked up the royal way from the Priory gate to the gate of the (Friars) Minors, with his muck and dung to such an extent that no one could pass there, one mark. "Johes del Fermerie fecit sibi juxit, I2d.," &c. John de Fermerie did similarly ad- joining, twelve pence. Kirkpatrick thinks this lane is identical with that called in 8th Edw. IV. St. Cuthbert's Lane. At an assembly, 13th June, 14th Eliz., it was agreed that Robt. Gyrdeler (who was the landlord of the Popingay) 26 ST. GEORGE TOMBLAND : should have a lease for twenty-one years of a lane called St. Fast's Lane, "that leadeth from the Ambry Grene gate (the Ethelbert Gate) of Christ's Church (the green inside towards the south was called the Almonry Grene) untill a Bridge, ageynst y^ Grownde of the Este parte of y^ late Graye Fryers, paying 6s. 8d. p an™, and he to make the gates and close the same at eyther ende, reserving nevertheless to everi man egress and regress to ther grounds y* open into the same lane." The lane was granted to Gyrdeler for herbage. At that time and long afterwards, until the construction of Foundry Bridge in 1810, it was scarcely used as a public thoroughfare. " Now the east part of the messuage which stands in the place of the antient stone hall before mentioned, is built over the lane and joins the wall of the Cathedral Close, but a sufficient large gate (way) is left and high enough for carts laden with hay, straw, &c., to pass under into the lane. License was granted on that condition to Hen. Bagotte, M.D.* (ist Hen. VHL) to build a garet over it." For the last two paragraphs we are mainly indebted to Kirkpatrick. In 1564 St. Mary in the Marsh was desecrated, and Rotten Row united to St. George Tombland. As before stated the ground on the east side next to the Cathedral precincts has been leasehold of the city for many years, and as early as 1541 one " Whyttyll '^ received a payment of 6d. from the City Chamberlain for " settyng marbyll stonys " under the College Wall at Tombland, meaning the wall of the Close. The house now occupied by F. O. Taylor, Esq., which has been recently handsomely renovated, was for many years in the last and present centuries the residence of Robert Marsh, of the firm of Marsh and Co., the London * Sir Wm. Denny, Knt., who was buried in the Cathedral in 1642, erected a house on the site of the present Cambridge House. PAST AND PRESENT. 2/ carriers, whose premises extended to the Ethelbert Gate. From hence those of our ancestors of the period, whose business or pleasure called them to the great metropolis, and who could not afford a coach fare, started on their long and tedious journey, and made their first stoppage for refreshments about a hundred yards from the starting place (we are told), at the sign of " The Compasses," an old fashioned tavern, a few years ago replaced on the widening of King Street by the modern building which now occupies its site. Quoting from " Palmer's Perlustration" some idea of the extent of the business of this firm may be gathered from the fact that in 1803, when an invasion was ex- pected, they offered to furnish government with one hundred horses, twelve broad-wheeled waggons with twenty-four men to guide and guard the same, twenty- four flat-bottomed boats with the men and horses usually employed therewith, four smiths with travelling forge, two wheelwrights and two collar makers, to be employed wherever their services might be required at an hour's notice. Here on this side of Tombland are other handsome residences, the present occupiers being J. Flatt and J. A. Poock, Esqs., and Mrs. Wilson, widow of the late George Wilson, Esq., for many years a well-known and respected inhabitant of the parish. In 1783 the houses on the sites of the three last- mentioned were respectively occupied by John Lewis, gent, supervisor of excise ; Charles Maltby, surgeon ; and mine host John Taylor, of "The Black Horse," which sign was not transferred to Wensum Street for many years afterwards. Dr. John Clarke, Dean of Sarum, and minister here for upwards of forty years, 1714-54, lived in the centre house. Beyond these and next to the Erpingham Gateway on the south side, 28 ST. GEORGE TOMBLAND : is now a small garden enclosed by an iron palisading. Here stood the house of the late Mr. Emmanuel Cooper, for many years an eminent surgeon in the city. His mausoleum is well known to all who are in the habit of visiting our Rosary cemetery. His house — an old- fashioned one with a rounded portico — was built in the latter part of the seventeenth century, and demolished about twenty years ago. It was occupied by surgeons continuously from its erection to its removal. Progressing northward and passing the gateway (the history of which belongs to the Cathedral) and another small enclosed garden, we arrive at the Parish Pump. A description of our parish would not be complete unless it included some notice of that generally unin- teresting, but in former times most necessary fixture, the "Parish Pump." The first mention we find of it is in the Churchwardens' Accounts. The entry is as follows: — "1777, May 6. At a Vestry Meeting agreed that the Pump upon the plain of this parish shall be taken down and repaired, and placed, with the Dean and Chapter's leave, against the wall adjoining to the precinct of the Cathedral, the whole to be done by a private voluntary subscription and not by a public rate." How long it had then been in existence we cannot say, but Kirkpatrick, writing about 1720, does not allude to it, though he mentions "the Cistern" at the south end. The Pump was and is at the north end. In 1 8 16 or 1 817 the Pump was repaired at the cost of £(^. OS. 2,d. "Joshua Cushings' bill (stone mason's work), repairing pump against the free school £(). os. 3^." * The workmen were not however satisfied with the water, which * Mr. W. P. Hughes of this city tells me he can remember the pump being enclosed by stonework, nothing but the handle and spout being visible ; in fact, he remembers as a boy climbing upon the top of the flint work, which adjoined the Precinct wall. PAST AND PRESENT. 2g the late Mr. E. Cooper affirmed till his death was the very best in Norwich, and would drink no other when at his home, just alluded to. They (the workmen) evidently desired something stronger, for we find another entry, "1817, Jan^ 14, Allow" of Beer while Repairing Pump 14s." In 1854 it was again put in order. Here ends such information as we can glean respecting the aforesaid pump. Leaving the Pump and crossing the road, we will step for a minute down the street called Palace Street, where, on its north side, is Pig Lane. This lane was from the 1 6th Ed. I. to 9th Henry V., known as Normannes Lane, which name it had from one Robert Norman, who, in Henry HI.'s time, had a messuage on the west side of it. It also appears to have borne the names during some portions of the time of Harpelees Lane (Rich, de Harpelee, temp. Rich. II.), and Hornynge's Lane, from Will, de Hornyng, clerk, or a bailiff of that name ; and in 1390 and 2nd Henry V. it was called "Normannes Lane, alias diet. Hornynges Lane." Then, in 1480, it was called Wateryng Lane, as it led to a place for watering horses in the river. Kirkpatrick concludes by saying " Now the lane is called the Piggs Lane, and was so called 14th Car. I., yet not from the sign of Three Piggs, which has been there lately hung out at an alehouse, but from Henry Pigge, a noted man, one of the Chief Constables of East Wymer Ward in 15 13, whose dwelling-house was on the east side next the street." His wife, Margaret, died, and was buried at St. George's in 1541. The entry immediately preceding in the register was that of one Robert Badding, gent., the name given to Baddings Lane, lower down the same street, in St. Martin at Palace. Returning, we come to the premises of Mr. F. W. Blomfield, a name long connected with the parish ; and 30 ST. GEORGE TOMBLAND : then to the north side of Tombland, and so to the house of Samuel Browne, Esq. Here, in 1595, or thereabouts, Hved Henry Gallyard, whilom sheriff, who had a controversy with his neighbour, Thomas Anguish, whilom mayor, who "goeth about to make lights in a new house adjoining the house of the said Gallyard." The Mayor and others were requested to arrange matters before the end of the month, and probably the matter was arranged, as no further allusion to it occurs in the mayoralty court books. In later years, Paul Colombine, D.D., here resided, and it was at one time an Independent chapel, under the ministrations of the Rev. Thomas Scott. It did not, however, remain such many years. The writer remembers, when quite a child, going with his nurse- maid to service there. The next house, now the residence of Joseph Allen, Esq., M.R.C.S., was in 1617 and previously occupied by Thomas Anguish. An old span- drel to an outer door still retains the initials of him . and his wife. Here, in that year, he kept his mayoralty ; a sad calamity occurring on the guild night (see page 13). In this house about 1830, lived Henry Carter, one of the surgeons to the Norfolk and Norwich Hospital, and subsequently Dr. Dove. Mr. Carter's portrait, through the kindness of Mr. Charles Williams, hangs in the board-room there, as does (through the like courtesy) that of Edward Colman, a former surgeon to the same institution, wIk) lived, in 1802, in the adjoining and corner house, now the residence of Mr. Churchwarden Gray. We think it not unlikely that this house was also a portion of Anguish's mansion. Though refaced with red brick, some part of it is very old, and the walls of considerable thickness. We now come to Wensum Street, a small portion of which, formerly known as Cook Rowe (which extended PAST AND PRESENT. 3 1 to Magdalen Gates) is situate in our parish. In Henry III.'s time it was the Vicus Cocorum, or the street of the cooks, and in Edward III.'s time our part was called " Le Cookrowe's ende." The cooks do not appear to have always been so good as they ought, for in i6th Edward I. it was presented that all the cooks and pastry cooks did heat their pasties and flesh and fish after the second and third day, and they were fined, some i^. and some 2s. ; and in the 27th of the same reign twenty-seven cooks were fined 3^. each for a like offence. On the eastern side of the street the famous old hostelry known as " The Maid's Head," situate in SS. Simon and Jude, has very recently by enlargement (for garden, greenhouse, and extra bed-rooms) come within the bounds of our parish. The old boundary iron upon the south wall of the hotel, notwithstanding the al- teration, is still to be seen. Mr. Rye writes us, " In digging foundations, very large and deep flint and rubble walls were found (over 10 ft. below present level), and in excavations several *'greybeards," old pottery, &c. There is little doubt that the walls were part of the early Bishop's Palace (there is a Norman capital in the cellars of the Maid's Head) the ground is all "made" ground for many feet down, and we got to the old bed of the river still wet and oozy." On the other side is the sign of " The Black Horse " (formerly " The Dyers' Arms"), transferred here when the old inn of that name above mentioned was pulled down. Mine host John Spinks is, we believe, the only citizen who now appears in our city streets in an old-fashioned wig. He is one of the drivers of the carriages of Her Majesty's Judges. Southward is Waggon and Horses Lane, situate at the north-west corner of Tombland, where it meets Wensum 32 ST. GEORGE TOMBLAND : Street. It first ascends and then descends to a triangular piece of ground adjacent to Elm Hill, where, as in Kirkpatrick's day, is a pump and an elm tree. This lane in 13th Edw. II. and 40th Edw. III. was called Hundegate, the same name as the Upper Street (now Prince's Street). In 12th Hen. VII., Prynce Inne Lane, and 24th Hen. VII., Prinse In Lane. The Lane by the Elme in the 25th Eliz., and circa 1720 the Elm Lane. At an assembly in 25th Eliz. it was agreed that the Lane by the Elm, on the back side of Aug^ Sotherton's house should have at each end a gate to shut in y* night and to set open in the daytime, and that all such persons as have back doors into y^ same lane should at their charges set up the said gates, and to keep them in reparation ; but, according to Kirkpatrick, they did not long do so. Passing the Waggon and Horses Lane we arrive at the inn from which it takes its present name. This old-fashioned house was formerly the property of the Beecrofts, who were London carriers (one of them was warned to be careful at the time of the plague), and the predecessors of Messrs. Marsh and Nasmith. This is now the quarters for several country carriers. Progressing we reach an old city house, the frontage of which shews it to have been one of no small importance. Blomefield says that it was commonly called "Samson and Hercules," the portico being supported by two large figures of those heroes in wood, the one holding his club, the other the jaw-bone of an ass. This, it is said, was formerly owned by Sir John Fastolf, Knt. ; after that by the Countess of Lincoln,^ and in Hen. VII. 's time by Elizabeth, Duchess of Suffolk. In Stuart times it appears to have been occupied by the Jays, staunch royalists. Here early in the present century lived the Rand family, ^ See Mayoralty Court Book ^ 29th Jan., 1532. PAST AND PRESENT. 33 and coming down to our times, the entrance led into a large paved courtyard, to the end of which, facing the gateway, had been removed the massive figures that to the childish imagination gave a hideous fascination, much relieved when distance lent enchantment to the view. They still remain, but in a different position. The square paved court and one of the three houses that faced the entry have been removed, and the vacant ground was covered in by the late firm of Pratt and Hancock, wholesale grocers. The premises passed into the hands of Mr. Cubitt, the well-known modern and antique furniture broker. Next door is another old noted and interesting city house, now in the occupation of the Messrs. Palmer, who there carry on a business similar to that of Mr. Cubitt, and also adapted to the character of the premises. About half a century ago this was a butcher's shop, a curious change indeed. The corbel shield at the north side of the entrance to the church alley shews the Mercer's arms, impaling a merchant's mark, that of Augustine Steward, thrice mayor of Norwich, M.P. in 1542, a very loyal citizen throughout the time of Kett's rebellion, being then deputy mayor. He was a benefactor to and a hard worker for our city, especially in obtaining from the king St. Andrew's Hall for the citizens. It is singular to note the sturdy oaken leaves on which the south-west corner of this quaint old house rests, which in its turn is supported by the churchyard wall. Steward's residence probably extended some way in the rear, along the north side of the churchyard. Of the block of houses standing between the east end of the churchyard and Tombland, we have but little to say, save that we believe it is tenanted by as honest and respectable a body of tradesmen as are to be found in the city. The northernmost house is charged with D 34 ST. GEORGE TOMBLAND : the payment of the annual rent-charge, which every Sunday produces the bread given away after morning service to the poor under the will of John Symonds, who died in 1629. Turning the south-east corner of this block we approach the east end of the churchyard, but before doing so reach the private door of the tavern occupied by Mrs. Thurlow, and belonging to Messrs. Bullard and Sons, brewers, who erected the substantial building standing here. The old house was an upholsterer's shop, and previous to that occupied by Mr. Jas. Steward, tailor and Town Councillor. The superstructure of the door- way above alluded to is not so high as the rest of the building, and when Cleer published his plan of Norwich in 1680 there was a passage through at the east end of the churchyard, the greater portion of which passage still remains. Some part of this block is copy- hold of the manor of Tolthorpe-cum-Felthorpe. We now come to the church and churchyard, of which more anon, and leaving these for the present we pass on and enter what is now termed Prince's Street, from Prince's Inn here formerly situate. The ancient name of this street was Hundegate, as also was that of the lower lane (Waggon and Horses Lane). The meaning of Hundegate has been by some considered the way of the hounds, for in this district hunting bishops of old kept their hounds ; and by others the way of the hundred, pointing to the " direction where, in Saxon times our forefathers assembled and held the hundred court. In the county the old name of hundred survives, but it has long since disappeared in connection with our civic government. From this street in early times a lane ran north through the west end of St. George's churchyard into the Back Lane (Waggon and Horses Lane). It is PAST AND PRESENT. 35 mentioned as a Comon Lane, 13th Edw. I. But in the 1 8th Edw. I. it is called the ground of Will"" de Depe, vv<^^ was a Comon Lane, and in 34th Edw. I. the ground of Adam de Depe, Taverner, w*'^ sometime was Coinon Lane. — Kirkpatrick. At the south-west corner of the church alley, embracing the residence of R. R. Cremer, Esq., and that of Mr. R. Brett, which were evidently formerly one house, was a tavern called "The Horse and Groom." We first meet with it in 1784 and four years afterwards 6s. id. was paid by the churchwardens " for repairing windows at * Horse and Groom,' broken in doing repairs to the Church." This probably was the site of " The White Horse" of earlier times, for an interesting reference to which see Chap. VH. The lane running northward further up Prince's Street, having the site of Prince's Inn on its east side, was in 1324 called " Cornunis venella." In 1394, licence was granted to the Dean and Chapter of the College in the Fields to shut up the said lane with two gates ; afterwards in 2nd Henry V. "the Maior, Sheriffs, and Comonalty of Norwich, granted to Mr. Ralph Gunton, Clerk, Notary Publick, the s'^ coinon Lane lying between the Tenement called Le Prince Inn east, and the Tenement of the s*^ Ralph W., and abutting on the King's Way S., and on a Coinon Lane N., w^^ said Lane lies open, and is incumbered with dunghills, to the great Nusance of the neighbours, &c., and is not, nor has not been for a long time, a comon passage, so that it is for the Benefit of the city that the same should be inclosed, because of the lying in wait of malefactors there in the night season : to have and to hold, &c., the same paying yearly id., but he (Gunton) to maintain at each end of the said lane a door, to be opened only in time of necessity, as in case of fire, D 2 36 ST. GEORGE TOMBLAND : or to repair the adjacent houses." — Kirkpatrick's Streets and Lanes. Probably, the piece of old wood carving, reading "Princes In" (not in situ), over the entrance to a yard in King Street, St. Etheldred, adjacent to the sign of " The Ship," was removed from here. Passing on, we reach two red-bricked houses of the last century, upon the furthermost of which remains the old irons, dated respectively 1777 and 1828, which shew that we have come to our boundary in this direction. These houses are now the property of Mr. A. J. Lacey, Architect and Diocesan Surveyor, a fellow parishioner. He tells us that on removing the floor of the front room of the westerly house for the purpose of alterations in 1874, there was found about a foot beneath the surface a skeleton in a doubled-up posture, and with it a bone draughtman, of the type used by the early Norsemen. The skull and draughtman were ex- hibited to the Archaeological Society at the time. The latter is now in the possession of Mr. Lacey. Referring to the doubled-up position of the skeleton, we cannot do better than quote from Greenwell and Rolleston's British Barrows, Oxford, 1877, P- 23: "The position was not due to the requirements of space, but originated in some settled principle, the meaning and pur- pose of which it may be said we have not the means of fully understanding, though I (Mr. Greenwell) think a satis- factory explanation can be given. This manner of disposing of the body has been so common and so widely diffused that it cannot be accidental. It scarcely seems to suggest itself as a natural position, and it must certainly have required, in many cases, very considerable force to bring the limbs into the required form." After giving various views upon the subject the writer says, " A more simple and at the same time a more probable explanation of PAST AND PRESENT. 37 this custom has been offered, which cannot be considered an unnatural or unlikely one. Where the sleeping place was not well protected against the cold, and when covering for the body at night was scanty and limited, the contracted position was that which was best adapted to afford warmth and comfort. What was more natural than that the body should be interred in the same posture in which the person was accustomed to rest in sleep, and in which, in many cases, he probably may have died. I have learnt on good authority that the greater number of persons die in a more or less contracted position, and with the hands turned towards the chest or head." Crossing the street, on this side our boundary extends a little further, and returning towards Tombland we note "The Cooper's Arms." There dwells John Hewitt, a resident nearly thirty years, a republican conservative. What a character ! but still true. He was one of the chartists who walked in procession to Kennington Common in 1848. Adjacent is a modern structure, originally erected as a school-room to Prince's Street Chapel ; it is still used for religious and educational purposes. Passing nearer Tombland we arrive at the residence of a gentleman who is the noisiest man in the city, the respected Bellman, Mr. Childerhouse. In the large house, next but one from the southern entrance to the churchyard, now the residence of E. P. Simpson, Esq. (a descendant in the maternal line of the ancient county family of Palgrave, which name often occurs in our registers), lived Dr. Green, Vicar from 1756 to 1786. Previously to Mr. Simpson, who with his father, the late G. E. Simpson, Esq., have resided here for about twenty-six years, the house was occupied by Mr. Wm. Newton, land agent. In this house about 1838 lodged a Miss Lubbock, who broken-hearted, being 38 ST. GEORGE TOMBLAND : disappointed in love, was a well-known figure constantly watching at a window for the return of the lover who never again appeared. We pass the house now occupied by Mr. Councillor Baldry, and reach the Central Temperance Hotel, for many years the private residence of Roger Kerrison, Esq., formerly a well-known solicitor of Norwich, and a Deputy Lieutenant for the County. We next come to the houses which stand upon the northern and eastern portion of the churchyard of St. Mary the Less, better known as " the French Church " ; of the churchyard itself we propose to treat when writing of the church and its various vicissitudes. Blomefield says that the tenement joining to the north side is called the Star Ground, and sometime belonged to the Aldermen and Brethren of St, George's Guild : the next house was " the Lamb," and was used as their meeting-house till 1550, when the fraternity granted the Lambe and the Stere with other property not connected with our parish to the " house of the poor peopuU called Goddes House" (the Great Hospital). Early in the century a large number of silver coins of William HI., which had apparently never been in circulation, were found beneath a floor in the corner house abutting on Tombland east and Queen Street south. It is supposed they had been stolen from the local mint, which for about two years was located in St. Andrew's Hall. These last-named premises, now the wholesale tobacconist's establishment of Messrs. Adcock and Denham, were for many years a grocer's shop : the names of Balderstone, Ivory, and Springall occur as carrying on that trade at this corner. Continuing our walk we wend our way up Queen Street, and the first object of interest which calls for notice is the steeple of a church (the narrow entrance to PAST AND PRESENT. 39 which is enclosed by an iron paHsaded gateway) ; this is all that is visible to the outside public of what may be described as one of the most historic of our small parish churches. It, in early times, bore the name of 5/. Mary the Less, and though it was little St. Mary, the old church has withstood many a change to which other larger, and, in their day, more important churches have succumbed. To give anything like a complete history of it would fill our book ; a few notes must therefore suffice. This church has evidently undergone many merciless alterations since its foundation. It consists of chancel, nave, and tower at the west end ; one of the buttresses of which is actually in the offices of Mr. Edward Boardman, the well-known architect. The nave shows marks of the early English period, and is entered by a south porch with stoup and parvise. The square tower, containing octagonal font, opens into the nave by a lofty narrow arch. The chancel, bereft of its arch, but retaining an ancient roof, exhibits windows of Decorated and Perpendicular styles. The church belonged to the prior and monks of Norwich, and continued in use till the Dissolution. In 1453 Thos. Trewe alias Parke was buried in the chancel, and ordered a stone to be laid over him with his image and inscription. In 1456 Ric. Bere, goldsmith, buried here, gave a "ship" of silver for the use of the church, and in the same year Mabel, wife of Rich^ Apulton, was buried in the chancel before the image of St. Mary. In 1460 Margery, widow of Thos. Parke, mentioned above, was buried by her husband ; and in 1463 John Folkard, alderman, was likewise buried here. In 1464 John Goose, shoemaker, was interred in the churchyard, and gave to the exaltynge of the crucifix on the rode lofte 6s. M. In 1474 John Baly, owner of the Popinjay, 40 ST. GEORGE TOMBLAND : was buried in the church. In 1504 John Silke, notary, gave his antiphoner to the church and 40^. to the curate ; and in 15 16 Joan, wife of Robert Belle, was buried in the nave, by her husband, and gave a stipend for a curate to serve in the church two years and sing for her and her husband, besides much linen to the altar, and a towel of plein cloth for to howsel with of iiij or V ellys by estimacon. In 1544 the Dean and Chapter of Norwich granted a lease of this church to the city for five hundred years, at a yearly rent of ^d., with all the bells, lead, churchyard, grounds, walls, and buildings thereto be- longing. The desks in the choir were reserved by the Dean, but were purchased by the city, and the windows repaired. In the same year it was leased out in parcels by the city, as appears from the following notes from the Corporation records — "36th Hen. VIII., receyved of Crane for a broken marbyll ston that lay upon Mr. Preston's grave, his Wyfys husbond, in the churchyard, \2d. ; of Will. Waller, for halff a yere ferme of the church ended Myghelmes, granted to him by a lease for twenty years, 6s. %d. ; of John Derne, for halfe a yeare ferme of the west end of the churchyard, then newly enclosed with ston walls, 3.9. 4^. ; of John Jowel, for a year's ferme of the south and east sides of the churchyard, with the tenantry annexed, lately purchased of Arnold, 26s. Zd. ; of John Thyrkyll, for seven old fourmes, ys. ; of Thomas Farrour, for the font, with a lytele marble stone that laye thereby, Gs. %d. ; of the churchwardens of St. George Tombland, for the rood loft and the desks of the quiere, 30^. ; and of Thomas Barcham, for the altar and an old tabernacle, 3^-. 4