IRLF 322 DM2 I NARRATIVE OF A J O U R N E Y * TO BRUSSELS AND C OBLENTZ. 1791. BY HIS MOST CHRISTIAN MAJESTY LOUIS XVIII. KING OF FRANCE AND NAVARRE. Tsucro duce, et auspice Teucro. Hor.l. 1. od. LONDON: PRINTED FOR HENRY COLBURN AND GO. AND iNJ-. BbrsSANGE AND CO. Wli.NT&D BY J? GRKK.4, known to several of my people, was never even suspected by my gaolers ; and that I did not myself make it known, by using- it during the most violent period of persecution, to go to my chapel, which is at the great Luxembourg. This difficulty being surmounted, there remained another, respecting the carriage we were to make use of, in order to go to that in which we were to travel ; for we did not for a moment think of having the latter come to 18 NARRATIVE OF A JOURNEY the Luxembourg. A fiacre was the safest con- veyance ; but fiacres did not enter the court of the Luxembourg : and d'Avaray would never consent to my going out on foot, how- ever well I might be disguised. It was, therefore, necessary to choose between a glass coach and a cabriolet ; and we preferred the former, not only because I am a little too heavy to mount a cabriolet, or alight from it with ease ; but because it requires a man to attend to it, which did not suit us. This point being settled, we debated whether it would be better to leave Paris with hired horses, or to go post ; and we decided for posting: 1st, because it is the way of travelling which excites least suspicion ; 2dly, because, had we hired horses, we must have placed relays on the TO BRUSSELS AND COBLENTZ. 19 road, or applied for an order for post-horses ; the former course would have excited suspi- cion, and the second might have had the same effect ; besides which, it would have in- creased the complication of an affair, which could not be too much simplified. Finally, we considered the means of quit- ting the kingdom. I thought we should want a passport : but the difficulty was to ob- tain it without compromising ourselves. My first idea was to send for Beauchene, physi- cian to my grooms, who was connected with M. Montmorin and M. de la Fayette ; and to tell him that two priests of my acquaintance, who had not taken the oath, being terrified at 20 NARRATIVE OF A JOURNEY what had so recently passed at the Theatins, wished to leave the kingdom disguised as Englishmen, and that I instructed him to procure a passport from M. de Montmo- rin's office. D'Avaray did not relish this idea: he represented that Duchene, who is acute, might have some suspicion of what we were so much interested in concealing, and I relinquished this scheme ; but d'Avaray, who was intimately acquainted with Lord Robert Fitzgerald, told me he would try to obtain a passport by his means. As to the road, my first idea was to take that of Douay and Or- chies ; but, on further reflection, I deter- mined to send Madame by that road, as the safest ; and told d'Avaray that we would fix our own on the following day. TO BRUSSELS AND COBLENTZ. 21 On parting from him, I went to the Tuile- ries, where the Queen shewed me the draft of the declaration which the King had prepared, and had just handed to her. We read it together : I found the style incorrect in some instances: this was a trifling inconvenience; but we considered the article not only rather too long, but deficient in an essential point, namely, a protest against all acts emanated from the King during his captivity. After supper, I made some observations to him on his work, which he desired me to take with me, and to return to him the next day. On Saturday morning I applied myself ac- cordingly, to the most ungrateful task exist- ing, that of correcting another person's work, and of suiting the phrases I was obliged to 22 NARRATIVE OF A JOURNEY interpolate, both with the style and turn of thought of the original ; the pen every mo- ment fell from my hands ; yet I got through the work, whether well or ill. In the mean time d'Avaray had written to Lord Ro- bert; called on his sadler, to see whether the coach was in good condition ; and, in order to deceive him, and avoid suspicion, had told him that he was obliged to set out for his regiment, and wished to go without the knowledge of his relations ; recommending secrecy to him, under this very plausible pretext. He had also made all necessary ar- rangements respecting my clothes, with Pe- ronnet ; and he returned to me at six o'clock. He was much dejected. Lord Robert had TO BRUSSELS AND COBLENTZ. 23 told him, in answer to his application, that he had no longer the privilege of giving passports ; and that Lord Gower would cer- tainly give none to any persons who were not English ; and other means which d'Avaray had tried, had proved equally unsuccessful. Fortunately Madame de Balbi had left him, on her departure, an old passport which she had obtained from the English ambassador, in the names of Mr. and Miss Foster ; but this passport, which was good only for a fortnight, was dated the 23d of April, and was for a man and woman, instead of two men. I did not conceive it possible to make any use of it ; but d'Avaray, who, I am happy to declare, seemed no more perplexed by the difficulties of our situation, than if he had 24 NARRATIVE OF A JOURNEY been asked by some youth of his acquaintance to take him to the ball at the opera-house, without the knowledge of his parents ; d'Avaray, I say, speedily convinced me that I was in the wrong : he erased the writing ; and although the erasure was in a fold, and the paper very thin, in less than a quarter of an hour the passport was in the names of Messieurs and Miss Foster, and dated the 13th of June, instead of the 23d of April. Although this obstacle was now overcome, we were not yet freed from all embarrass- ment ; we knew not whether or not it was necessary that the passport should be in- spected by the minister for foreign affairs ; and we did not think it advisable to produce a paper, the falsification of which might be TO BRUSSELS AND COBLENTZ. 25 recognized, notwithstanding all d'Avaray's dexterity, and all the ink which he had plen- tifully spilt at the back, as well where the erasures were, as in other parts, to create the less suspicion. We resolved to content our- selves with it as it was, hoping it would excite no surprise that two Englishmen, such as we had determined to appear, should have sup- posed a passport from the English ambassador to be sufficient ; and that the municipal au- thorities who might have to examine it, would not discover its defects. We next considered what road we should take ; I had relinquished that of Orchies to Madame. That of Valenciennes I declined for the reasons already stated ; we fixed on 20 NARRATIVE OF A JOURNEY that of Mons, by Soissons, Laon, and Mau- beuge, from the following motives : 1st, This line of road was not much frequented, and we therefore hoped it would be the more easy to find horses ; 2dly, As far as Soissons it might be thought that we were going to Rheims ; and from thence to Laon, that we were going to Givet; which circumstances might mislead our pursuers ; 3dly, The fortified towns, in the interior of which the post is fixed, are marked in the book of posts in a particular manner. Now, ac- cording to that mark, the post is in Avesnes, and not in Maubeuge ; arid we calculated, that according to the time of our departure, we should pass Avesnes before the gates would be shut, and should not reach Maubeuge TO BRUSSELS AND COBLENTZ. 27 until after the shutting of the gates of that place ; that we should have no business with any one hut the post-master ; and should thus avoid the frontier towns, of which the weakness of our passport made us some- what apprehensive. In the evening I carried home my perform- ance to the Tuileries : I asked the Queen whe- ther she thought that a passport from the English ambassador would be sufficient. She assured me that the King himself had no other than that of the Russian minister, which greatly contributed to calm my apprehensions. (I must certainly have failed to make myself un- derstood ; for the passport in the name of the baroness de Korff, which was, indeed, de~ 28 NARRATIVE OF A JOURNEY manded by Monsieur de Simolin, had in re- ality been made out at the office for foreign affairs ; but the Queen had no motive to de- ceive me : and I would not relate this cir- cumstance, had I not promised to declare every thing.) The work in which the King had com- manded me to assist, contained only the first part, that is to say, the defects of the consti- tution. There w r as yet wanting the summary of the personal outrages which the King had suffered since the opening of the states- general. He commanded me to write this summary, which I carried to him the following evening. It might be supposed, according to what is mentioned above, as well as what I TO BRUSSELS AND COBLENTZ. 29 am now stating, that the declaration of the 20th of June originated with me. Truth re- quires me to declare that I only corrected it; that several of my corrections were not adopted ; that the whole conclusion of it was added after the end of my task, and that I only became acquainted with it, such as it appears, at Brussels. With the exception of this work, and two circumstances which I am about to relate, Sunday was a nullity to me : but it was not so to d'Avaray. He was in motion through- out the day, appeared in public only for a moment at the Luxembourg, as we had agreed the preceding day, and we did not see each other in private. This public visit, which 30 NARRATIVE OF A JOURNEY we had considered necessary, was very incon- venient to him, as it deprived him of part of the little time he had reserved to himself. For my part, it was painful to me to leave him undistinguished in the crowd, and only to address him in one of those unmeaning sentences which princes are obliged to use when they hold their courts ; but prudence required me to be a prince for that moment ; and I sincerely promised myself, in my own mind, that it should be the last time I would be so towards him. He had already placed a partial confidence in Sayer, his English servant, similar to that which he had reposed in the sadler, telling him that he was to set out the following day TO BRUSSELS AND COBLENTZ. 31 for his regiment, and charging him to say nothing about it to his relations, or in his house. He added, that having endeavoured to meet with a travelling companion, he had been fortunate enough to meet with one who was a pleasant fellow ; but that as there was generally more respect paid to foreigners than to Frenchmen at the post-houses, we had agreed to travel as Englishmen, under the names of Michael and David Foster. After this he introduced him to Peronnet, as Per- ron, valet de chambre to his fellow-traveller. The names of Michael and David were not adopted without a motive ; my linen was marked with an M, and his with D A ; and he conceived that in case it should be examined, it would be necessary for our 32 NARRATIVE OF A JOURNEY supposed names to correspond with these marks. I will now relate the circumstances to which I have already alluded. In the morn- ing of this same day, I met Beauchene at Madame's toilette ; and he told me that a man had called on Audouin, one of those journalists who daily deal out their two- pennyworth of poison in Paris, bringing him a plan for the escape of the King and all the rest of us, which, he declared, he knew to have been adopted at the Tuileries : that he had requested Audouin to insert it in his jour- nal, and that it would appear the following day. This information alarmed rne ; it is even said that I turned pale on hearing it: TO BRUSSELS AND COBLENTZ. 33 I do not believe that, but I am certain that I recovered myself promptly enough to ask Beauchene, laughing, the particulars of this pretended plan ; he gave me some details of the falsehood of which I was so certain, that I clearly perceived, that even if any thing was known, it must be far from the whole truth, and I recovered my spirits completely. The second circumstance was a note mysteriously worded, which I received from d'Avaray in the morning, who complained of a bolt I had put up. I thought myself pretty certain that there was none at the door of my little apart- ment which adjoins the great Luxembourg: I hastened to ascertain the fact, and finding I was right, determined to wait until I could D 34 NARRATIVE OF A JOURNEY see d'Avaray alone, to obtain the solution of this enigma. On Monday morning, a report was spread that the Queen had been arrested during the night, as she was escaping in a fiacre with my sister : at first I took no notice of this rumour, but on reflection, I perceived two things in it, which agreed with what Beau- chene had told me : the first was, that our gaolers were alarmed ; the second, that their apprehensions were vague : hence I concluded that we were yet in time to make our escape, but that the moment was well chosen, and that if we should suffer it to elapse, it would never return. I was soon afterwards alarmed by TO BRUSSELS AND COBLENTZ. 35 another circumstance. As Madame de Sour- dis was coming to Madame, to attend her to mass, she was refused entrance at the little Luxembourg; but I soon found it was a blunder of th eporter. This tranquillized me, and I waited for d'Avaray to obtain the ex- planation of his note. In the mean time, I considered that it would be expedient to blacken my eyebrows a little, the better to disguise my face, and I therefore put a cork into my pocket, at dinner, for this purpose. D'Avaray made me wait for him until nearer seven o'clock, and I confess that the time seemed long to me ; for besides the anxiety I felt on his account, whenever I was separated from him, and the final arrange- D 2 36 NARRATIVE OF A JOURNEY "merits which we still had to make, he was the only being to whom I could speak on the sub- ject which engrossed all my thoughts. He ex- plained to me what was meant by the bolt, of which he had complained, by telling me that Peronnet, to whom he had entrusted the key of the little apartment, had carried all my travelling clothes thither, but had been unable to get in, and had thought that there must be a bolt inside. We instantly went to the spot, and finding the bundle, saw that Peronnet must have entered ; we next tried the key in the lock, and satisfied ourselves that it turned freely. We then examined the contents of the bundle, which we found very complete. I tried on the boots, which fitted me well ; and we placed every thing in order in the place TO BRUSSELS AND COBLENTZ. 37 I had resolved to dress in. D'Avaray promised to be with me at eleven precisely ; we em- braced with hearty good will, and separated to meet no more until the moment of com- mencing the execution of our scheme. In d'Avaray's arrangements, there are in- numerable particulars which are well known to him alone, because he alone performed the whole ; I leave them to be related by himself, certain that his account will be strictly correct in this point, my object being only to declare what I myself did or saw, and above all to pre- vent his failing to do himself justice in essen- tial points. As d'Avaray left my apartments, he was ac- 38 NARRATIVE OF A JOURNEY costed by a man, who, I think, according to the description he gave me, must have been Desportes, usher of my closet, who told him that he had something pressing and important to say to him. He took him into the corridor leading from the little to the great Luxem- bourg, where this man, after a long preamble, about his attachment to the King and me, informed him that one of his friends, a person highly deserving of credit, had told him in confidence, that he had been applied to, to lend money to facilitate the escape of the whole Royal Family, which was to take place that very night ; that bethought it his duty to give him this information, and entreated him to return immediately, and communicate it to me likewise. D'Avaray was not put off TO BRUSSELS AND COBLENTZ. 39 his guard ; he told him that this must be one of the thousand-and-one schemes of flight and counter-revolution, with which the public had been amused for the last twelvemonth ; but the other persisted, and d'Avaray could not get rid of him, until he promised to men- tion the subject to me in the evening, at my coucher, or the following day at latest. Nevertheless, he thought the matter serious enough to to be imparted to me ; he went in again through my little apartment, and knocked at the door of my closet, but in vain ; I had already set out for the Tuileries. He then, considered, whether it would not be best to proceed thither, and to inquire either for the Queen's first femme de chambre, or for me, in order to inform the Queen or myself of 40 NARRATIVE OF A JOURNEY what he had just heard ; but he reflected that that would be thought a remarkable circum- stance, particularly as he had long* abstained from appearing in public, in order to avoid questions ; and his being seen at the Tuil- eries would excite surprise ; besides, things had gone so far, that it was no longer possible to recede. All these circumstances induced him to keep the information to himself, and not even to mention it to me until we were in safety ; committing the success of our scheme to the care of providence. I was the more impatient to reach the Tuileries, as I knew my sister would, at length, in the afternoon of this day, be informed of the secret which I had, with much regret, TO BRUSSELS AND COBLENTZ. 41 kept from her so long. I found her calm, re- signed to the will of God, content, but with- out evincing any burst of joy ; in short, as cool as if she had been acquainted with the plan for a twelvemonth. We embraced very tenderly ; after which she said, " Brother, you are religious ; allow me to give you an image, it cannot but bring you good fortune." I accepted it, as may be supposed, with as much pleasure as gratitude. We conversed some time on the grand enterprise ; and with- out being prejudiced by my tender affection for her, I must say it is impossible to reason with more coolness and sense than she did ; I could not but admire her. I went down to the Queen's apartments, and waited some time for her, because she was closeted with the three 42 NARRATIVE OF A JOURNEY body-guards, who gave both her and the King the last and lamentable proofs of their zeal ; at length she appeared ; I ran to embrace her ; "Do not excite my feelings," said she; "I do not wish it to be observed, that I have been weeping." We supped and remained together till eleven o'clock. When the mo- ment of separation arrived, the King, who had not previously informed me whither he w^as going, called me, declaring that he meant to go to Montmedy, and positively commanded me to go to Longwy, through the Austrian Nether- lands. At length, we embraced with great tenderness, and, separated, in the firm per- suasion, at least on my part, that in less than four days we should all meet again in safety. TO BRUSSELS AND COBLENTZ. 43 It was not eleven o'clock when I left the Tuileries, and I was glad of it, because I was in hopes that the duke de Levis, who usually attended me home in the evening', would not have arrived, which I wished for two reasons: 1st, becanse I did not care to have questions put to me, which, however indirect, might have embarrassed me ; and 2dly, because I was in the habit of conversing for a longtime previously to going to bed, and was fearful, if I should retire immediately, as it was ne- cessary for me to do, that I should excite some suspicion in his mind. My hopes were not fulfilled; he even shewed a degree of assiduity Avith which I would readily have . dispensed. I suppressed my vexation, how- ever, and conversed calmly with him the 44 NARRATIVE OF A JOURNEY whole of the way. When I got home, I began to undress, at which he seemed surprised ; I told him I had slept very ill the preceding night, and that I wished to indemnify myself for the rest I had lost. He was satisfied with this reason ; I finished undressing, and went to bed. Before I proceed further, it is necessary to observe, that my first valet-de-chambre always slept in my room, which seemed to be an impediment to my departure, unless I were to admit him to my confidence. But I had satisfied myself, by an experiment made two days before, that I had much more than sufficient time to rise, light a taper, and pass into my closet, before he could undress and return into my chamber. TO BRUSSELS AND COBLENTZ. 45 Scarce had he left the room, when I got up closed the curtains of my bed again, and having taken the few articles which I wished to carry with me, entered my closet, the door of which I shut behind me ; and thenceforth, whether by a presentiment, or through a just confi- dence in d'Avaray, I considered myself out of the kingdom. I put in the pockets of my robe-de-chambre, three hundred louis, which I intended to take, arid entered the little apartment where d'Avaray was waiting for me, after having been greatly alarmed, for as he came in, the key had refused to turn in the lock. A thousand ideas, each worse than the preceding, had passed through his mind. At length he tried to turn the key inwards, which was precisely the way of the lock. 46 NARRATIVE OF A JOURNEY When dressed, by his assistance, I recollected that I had left my cane, and a second snuff- box, which I also wished to carry with me. I was for returning to fetch them. " No rash- ness !" said he. I persisted no longer. The dress fitted me very well, but the wig was a little too tight. However, as it would go on, and as I had determined upon every occasion of consequence, to keep a great round hat, decorated with a broad tri-coloured cockade, on my head, this inconvenience did not give us much concern. As we crossed the little apartment, d'Avaray said that there was a glass-coach, similar to ours, in the court of the great Luxembourg, which caused him some anxiety. I tranquillized him, by telling him it was for Madame. When we were on TO BRUSSELS AND COBLENTZ. 47 the stair-case, he desired me to wait while he went to see whether it was still there. Finding it was gone, he returned to me, saying in English, " Come along with me." " I am ready," I answered, in the same language, and we got into the coach, which was a vis-a-vis. In getting in, I chanced to seat myself in front. " What !" said he, " compliments ?" Faith," replied I, " here I am." He did not urge the matter ; and having ordered the coachman to drive to the Pont-Neuf, we thus left the Lux- embourg. My joy at finding I had escaped from my gaolers, which d'Avaray most sin- cerely shared, made us extremely cheerful. Accordingly our first impulse, after passing the gate, was to sing a couplet of the parody on Penelope : 48 NARRATIVE OF A JOURNEY " ga va bien, (Ja prend bien; Us ne se doutent de rien."* We met several people, and a patrol of the national guard. No one attempted to ascertain whether there was any person in the coach. Near the Pont-Neuf, d'Avaray ordered the coachman to drive to the Quatre-Nations ; we met our carriage, which was waiting for us, between the Monnaie and the Quatre- Nations, in the little street which forms the angles of those two buildings. The coach- man, who had already set d'Avaray down there in the afternoon of the same day, * This does well, this takes ; they suspect nothing. TO BRUSSELS AND COBLENTZ. 49 thought we were going to the same place, and was about to stop, but d'Avaray told him to stop opposite the college, where we alighted. The coachman asked if we were satisfied ? " Quite so," replied d'Avaray ; " I shall pro- bably employ you again, the day after to- morrow." We now followed our travelling carriage on foot ; d'Avaray recommending me to take care to walk in a lounging manner. At length we reached it; I got in first, Sayer next, and lastly, d'Avaray. Peronnet mount- ed on horseback ; we gave orders, in the English accent, to drive to Bourget ; and so we started. When we reached Pont-Neuf, we were passed by two post-coaches, at which d'Avaray began to be uneasy; when, after we had changed our course to avoid them, they 50 NARRATIVE OF A JOURNEY again passed us at Saint Martin's gate, and he found they were taking the same road as ourselves : he no longer doubted but that it was some one of my family, and he was in- wardly railing at princes who, for want of mutual communication, spoil the best ar- rangements in the world ; for he naturally concluded that if we should thus continue to go on close together, we should not only prevent each other from obtaining horses, but excite suspicion, and infallibly get arrested. I did not share his anxiety, because I well knew that it was Madame, and that when once past Bourget, we had nothing more to apprehend ; but I could not explain myself before a man who was not in our secret. Fortunately d' Avaray only spoke of TO BRUSSELS AND COBLENTZ. 51 the probable want of horses, and I represented to him, that we must be singularly unlucky, if these coaches were going precisely to Soissons, as the road on which we were travelling led also to Flanders, Metz, and Nancy. When we had crossed the Chalons road, his anxiety and impatience increased ; I then thought it best to speak out a little, and assuming a prophetic tone, I positively affirmed that these two car- riages were going to Douay. This calmed him a little, with respect to the chance of our keeping together all the way ; but being desir- ous to gain time, he offered the postilion six francs to pass the two carriages ; this succeeded for a moment, but they soon re-passed us, and we reached Bourget together. D'Avaray then made Sayer alight, under pretext of sending E 2 52 NARRATIVE OF A JOURNEY him to see who were in those carriages, and when we were alone I explained to him clearly what I had previously only been able to tell him in ambiguous terms, which entirely tran- quillized him. Day overtook us near Nan- teuil ; Sayer then mounted on horseback, and Peronnet took his place in the carriage: he took from his pocket my diamonds, which he had brought away with him, and we hid them between the back of the coach and the lining, which we fastened up again over them. I also took the cork, mentioned above, which d'Avaray had taken care to blacken, and painted my eye- brows, without caricaturing, in such a manner as to render it impossible to recognize me ; and I took the additional precaution of pretending to sleep at every post, at least until we had TO BRUSSELS AND COBLENTZ. 53 reached a great distance from Paris. I had the presumption to foretell, on our leaving each post, from the physiognomy of the postilions, whether they would drive well or ill, and I ac- tually was not once mistaken. We had pro- ceeded wonderfully well as far as Verte-feuille ; but there I declared we should go on very ill to Soissons, and I was riot deceived. During this post d'Avaray talked to me of his intention to give in the resignation of his regiment. I did not exactly approve of it, but I yielded to his reasons ; he then told me he was inclined to send it from Soissons to M. du Portail. I ban- tered him on the choice of the place, asking whether he thought he should have more time there than at the other posts ; I was also un- willing that he should address it to M. du Por- $4 NARRATIVE OF A JOURNEY tail, knowing that the King was to dismiss all his ministers on his departure ; but as he in- tended to date it the 18th of June, I had no- thing to say against it. In the mean time the postilion justified but too well the augury I had drawn from his countenance, for it would be impossible to drive worse. We accordingly concluded that he must certainly be president of the Jacobin club of Soissons. But although I jested thus, I was really alarmed ; I had, seve- ral leagues back, discovered that I had left the image my sister had given me, at Paris ; and al- though I am as little of a bigot as any one, this loss really vexed me, and gave me much more uneasiness than the loss of my cane and snuff-box. TO BRUSSELS AND COBLENTZ. 55 When we reached Soissous, we were in- formed, that one of the bands of the left fore- wheel was broken ; this was extremely un- fortunate, but we soon found reason for still greater anxiety, for on further examina- tion of the wheel, we discovered that the felly also was broken. D'Avaray said nothing, but I plainly saw what was passing in his mind. I, who was no less alarmed, also en- deavoured to suppress my emotion. It should seem that I succeeded, for he has since assured me that the confidence he observed in me re- stored his own. It was proposed to us to have a new felly made ; we asked how much time this operation would require, and were told it would occupy near two hours and a half. Lit- tle acquainted with wheelwright's work, and 56 NARRATIVE OF A JOURNEY consequently with the other resources which we might. adopt, I regarded this loss of time with great pain, and the more so, because, as it was then half past eight, our flight must have been known at Paris, and we should have lost, by every moment's delay, part of the ground we had gained during the night. But d'Avaray, who had, as I have already men- tioned, recovered his self-possession, thought of another expedient, namely, to fasten the felly with a double band of iron, which plan it was determined to adopt. Whilst this work was in hand, he first wrote his letter to M. du Portail, which he enclosed in another, ad- dressed to M. de Gourdis, his brother-in-law ; and then went to hasten the smith. Being left alone, I looked into his portfolio, which TO BRUSSELS AND COBLENTZ. 57 he had forgotten and left in the coach, where I found, with equal surprize and joy, the image which I thought I had left at Paris ; but what greatly increased my astonishment, was his afterwards assuring me, that on open- ing his portfolio, he had been no less surpriz- ed than myself at finding it, having no recol- lection of putting it there. The postmaster was near the carriage, with whom, justly con- fiding in my English accent, I conversed for gome time, without having reason to fear, from any gesture or motion of his, that he had the least suspicion who I was. At last our wheel was repaired, and we were assured that it would still run twelve or fifteen leagues. This was not nearly sufficient for our purpose, for we were still thirty-two leagues from MOMS; 58 NARRATIVE OF A JOURNEY but we trusted a little to our good fortune, and did not give way to much anxiety. But before I proceed further, I must relate a danger from which we escaped without knowing of it, and which was certainly the greatest risk we ran. M. de Tourzel had left Paris on the Thurs- day or Friday ; and to avoid exciting any sus- picion, he had passed two days at Haute Fon- taine, with the archbishop of Narbonne. His servant, who was not much inclined to leave France, took it into his head, when intoxi- cated, to go and denounce him to the Jacobin Club of Attichy, which is very near Haute- Fontaine 3 as an aristocrat, who was proceed- ing to a foreign country to effect a counter- TO BRUSSELS AND COBLENTZ. 59 revolution. The club instantly forwarded in- structions to all the clubs of the neighbouring towns, and to that of Soissons in particular, to arrest all travellers. The chiefs then put themselves at the head of sixty men of the National Guard, and went to Haute Fontaine to secure M. de Tourzel ; but on finding that he was a young man of even childish appear- ance, and travelling quietly in a cabriolet, they treated the servant's information with contempt, and allowed the master to proceed. They must also, in all probability, have given counter-orders to the neighbouring clubs, otherwise we must inevitably have been arrest- ed. But notwithstanding that, I am perfectly correct in saying this was the greatest risk we CO NARRATIVE OF A JOURNEY ran ; and had I been aware of it, we should certainly have taken a different road. The post of Vaurains, between Soissons and Laon, is a solitary house, where there is ab- solutely nobody but the people belonging to the post, who were all occupied with their horses. This seemed to me such a fine op- portunity for alighting, and stretching my legs a little, that I instantly offered to do so, but d'Avaray opposed it so firmly, that I was obliged to give way. I then proposed to breakfast ; we had a pie, and some Bour- deaux wine ; but we had forgotten to bring any bread. Whilst we were eating the crust with the pie, we thought of Queen Maria Theresa, who, when somebody in her pre- TO BRUSSELS AND COBLENTZ. 61 sence was expressing compassion for the poor who had no bread, answered, "Good God! why don't they eat pie-crust then ?" D'Avaray then hit upon one of the best expedients in the world, which was to take Say er into the chaise with us again, and to send Peronnet forward with the measure of our felly, to get a new one made, in case the iron band should give way, in order to avoid a similar danger of wait- ing two hours, to that we had just escaped. Sayer informed us by the way, that every body was firmly persuaded we really were English ; which gave us great pleasure. He added, that he was every were told we were going to Brussels. Had we passed for Frenchmen, this opinion would have been very disagree- able to us ; but our being taken for English 62 NARRATIVE OF A JOURNEY rendered it indifferent. D J Avaray , seeing him inclined to converse, led him to speak of the affairs of the time, on which he expressed himself very freely, and, amongst other things, he used one expression which has struck me forcibly since, which was, that people began to treat the King as a madman (fou) ; and here it may be proper to observe, that Sayer speaks bad French, and that the English word /bo/, which he certainly had in view, signifies something very different from fou in French. He also made a reflection, which I noticed as just ; namely, that it cannot be said that there are in reality either aristocrats or democrats, since the man who has but sixpence (this was his expression) treats him who possesses a shilling as an aristocrat. In the mean time TO BRUSSELS AND COBLENTZ. 63 Peronnet had reached Laon above three quar- ters of an hour before us ; but the cartwright was gone to the town, and was not returned when we arrived. We had our wheel care- fully examined, and having satisfied ourselves that it was in good condition, continued our journey, and thought no more of having a new felly made. It is impossible to be worse driven than we were from Vaurains, arid particularly between Laon and La Capelle. I began to fear that we should not reach Avesnes before the gates would be shut ; and I was thinking of going by way of Landrecy, where the post- house is out of the town : it would, indeed, have lengthened our road by four leagues; 04 NARRATIVE OF A JOURNEY but this was a trifling inconvenience, com- pared to that of stopping altogether. But the anxiety I felt on account of the slowness of the postilions, was soon absorbed by a more cruel affliction. D'Avaray, who had for some time appeared serious and taciturn, instead of gay and talkative, as he had pre- viously been throughout the journey, at last confessed to me, between Marie and Vervins, that he was spitting blood ; and 1 saw the proof of it but too plainly on his handkerchief, which I took from him, by a sort of mechanical impulse, the moment he made this acknowledgment to me. Conceive, then, what passed in my mind : 1 could not doubt but that the mental and bodily fatigue he had undergone, in preparing for our- de- TO BRUSSELS AND COBLENT2. 65 parture, added to the sleepless night he had just passed, and the fatigue of the journey, had brought on this accident. I knew that when he suffered these attacks, they usually lasted several days : and I am sufficiently acquainted with medicine, to know, that in such cases rest is the principal and most in- dispensable of all remedies. God is my wit- ness, that had he not been exposed, in case of arrest, to greater danger than myself, nothing on earth should have induced me to go a step further ; but I was but too certain of this distressing truth : thus I looked upon myself, in every view of the subject, as the assassin of him to whom I was attached by friendship, before I loved him from gratitude ; and who was, at that very moment, giving me proofs 66 NARRATIVE OF A JOURNEY of his faithful and courageous friendship. Notwithstanding all my efforts to suppress my feelings, the state of my mind was but too visible in my face. He perceived it ; and, forgetting his own sufferings, over- coming the agitation whichinvariably attends accidents of this nature, he exerted himself in consoling me in encouraging me with respect to himself assuring me that it was nothing that it only arose from his being a little heated, and that he felt that it was going off. I no longer heard what he said : I had turned towards God, and prayed to him with a degree of ardour, which I certainly should never have felt in praying for myself; in short, I dare not believe that my prayers were heard ; however TO BRUSSELS AND OOBLENTZ. 67 the spitting of blood ceased, and did not return. I am unable to describe the sensations that I felt on beholding the saliva entirely white when I inspected his handker- chief, and I continued to examine it every instant. Such details as these will undoubt- edly appear low, and even disgusting, to cold and callous hearts, but it is not for them that I write, and those endued with sensibility will consider the matter in another light. On our arrival at La Capelle, we asked the post-mistress, upon her word and oath, whether we should arrive at Avesnes be- fore the gates were shut. She gave us reason to believe that we should not only enter that town, but even depart from it the same i 2 68 NARRATIVE OF A JOURNEY evening, a circumstance that afforded us great delight, as we were persuaded that it was the only place we had reason to dread . I shortly af- ter witnessed a dispute between her and Perro- net, who dismounted at every post to make his payments, and who now had a fresh difficulty to encounter. We travelled with three horses, for which we generously paid thirty sous. The post-mistress insisted (and in this she was right) that as there were three in the carri- age, we ought to pay for four horses. The con- trary was maintained by Perronet, but she threatened to charge us with four horses, and two postilions. It was rather a pleasant circumstance in our case, to hazard our lives for ten sous, for that is all the difference between three horses, at thirty sous, and four TO BRUSSELS AND COBLENTZ. 69 at twenty-five. D'Avaray told her, that she treated us ill, because we were strangers " No," replied she ; " I am entitled, if such were my pleasure, to make you take six horses." " Well, then," replied I, (being now convinced, by the frequent bursts of laughter that I excited among the postilions, that I was taken for a real Englishman) " if you give us six horses, I will only pay for five." This made the post-mistress laugh. I then turned to Perronet, and address- ing myself very seriously to him, " Monsieur Perron," said I, " pay whatever madame de- mands. It shall never be said, that Michael Foster held any dispute with a lady for the sake of interest."* The tone with which * The bad French often spoken by the English on the continent, is admirably imitated in the original. 70 NARRATIVE OF A JOURNEY I uttered this sentiment, the gravity of my aspect, my gestures and accent, arid a thousand other little points which cannot be described, made the scene extremely di- verting and comical, but I resolutely resisted every inclination to laughter. We then in- quired, what regiment was in garrison at Avesnes ; and were informed that it was the regiment of Vintimille. This intelligence was displeasing to d'Avaray, who happened unfortunately to have given an entertainment to the officers of that regiment two years be- fore, but we agreed that he should sit as far back as he could in the carriage, and we then set out. As we proceeded, the sun, which had not before appeared during the whole day, now displayed himself so power- TO BRUSSELS AND COBLENTZ. 71 fully as to induce me to draw up the blind in my defence. This little circumstance may appear trifling, but it will be seen how impor- tant it afterwards proved. When we arrived at the gates of Avesnes, we were asked for our names, in the usual form ; and whether we were going to make any stay. We replied, that we were two Englishmen, and that we wished to proceed on our journey without delay. We presented our passports, which they scarcely looked at, and made our way to the post-house. But Saver, who felt much fatigued, and whom every one around him endeavoured to per- suade (particularly an Englishman, who hap- pened to be present) that it was madness to 72 NARRATIVE OF A JOURNEY go further, as he could not hope to reach Mau- beuge, had suffered himself to be convinced by their advice, and had not taken the precaution to order post-horses. We did not, however, fail to call for them, and while we were left be- tween the post-house and a coffee-house frequented bj the militar}^ we were detained a full quarter of an hour, and exposed to the view of a number of officers. Happily the blind which I alluded to above, secured us on the side of the coffee-house, while the officers had the politeness to repulse the towns-people, who seemed inclined to peep into our coach. But I felt deeply the suf- ferings of d'Avaray, whose feelings were divided between the dangers of our present position, and his resentment against Sayer, TO BRUSSELS AND COBLENTZ. 73 who had led us into this awkward predica- ment. I used my utmost efforts to appease him, in which I ultimately succeeded, and at last we set out, and finding ourselves quite clear of the town, we chaunted victory in the joy of our hearts. The postilion who drove us, was going on at a good round pace, and seemed to be what we might call a very brisk and pleasant fel- low, that was not easily terrified. We ob- served, however, and with some degree of pain, that he frequently looked behind him, and seemed to discover some apprehension. At last he made a halt, and asked us whither we wished him to conduct us. " To the post- house," cried I. " Very well," said he, "but 74 NARRATIVE OF A JOURNEY the post-house is a miserable inn, but I will take you to the Grand Cerf, where you will be well treated." " Good treatment," replied I,-" is not the question at present. We do not wish to sleep at Maubeuge." " Where, then, do you wish to go?" cried he. " To Mons," said I. "To Mons !" repeated he, with a laugh, " you will not get there to-day." " Why not?" replied I, in my turn. " Because," replied he, " there is every chance that they will not open the gates to let us in ; but if they do, they will certainly not open them again to let us out." " What is it to us," said I, " whether the gates areopen or shut, si nee the post-house is not at Maubeuge ?" " It has been fixed there these six months," replied he. " How !" said I, " is there not a road that turns from the town ?" TO BRUSSELS AND COBLENTZ. 75 " Certainly," replied he. " Well, my worthy friend," added I, " as we are in a hurry, and our horses are good, could you not turn aside from the town, and double the post? We will pay you well." " Not I," cried he ; " I would not do such a thing, for all the world." From these words, I immediately con- ceived an idea of all the horrors of our situation, and seeing no prospect of hope, I only thought of resignation to the fate of which I had a clear foresight. My own sacrifice was not painful, but the ruin of d'Avaray engrossed all my feelings. He, however, never lost his firmness, and being always calm in the midst of danger^ addressed the postilion in bad French, but 76 NARRATIVE OF A JOURNEY with a degree of eloquence, which I am un- able to imitate; and gave him to understand, that we were extremely anxious to reach Mons, as he had left his sister, who was also my cousin, (a charming young woman, equally dear to us both), very ill at Soissons ; that the only physician, in whom she had any confidence, lived at Mons ; that if we delayed a moment to procure his assistance, his sister would expire, and we should be both wretched for the remainder of our lives; and that if he passed us through, he would give him a guinea ; perhaps two or three. This speech, with the additional recom- mendation of the three guineas, produced a miraculous effect on the postilion. He re- TO BRUSSELS AND COBLENTZ. 77 fleeted for a moment, and then said, " Well,Pll contrive to pass you." Yet presently after- wards he recommended to us not to enter Mau- beuge, but to have the horses brought out. We expressed our apprehensions of the difficulty of that proceeding; but he assured us that he was unacquainted with the road through the suburbs, and would procure himself a guide. We then replaced Sayer in the car- riage, and making Peronnet mount on horse- back, and charging him to keep an eye on the movements of the postilion, we proceeded on our journey. As soon as we arrived at the suburbs, the postilion stopped, and going into a cabaret to refresh himself, inquired for a guide. 78 NARRATIVE OF A JOURNEY There were some females present, whose sympathy he excited by the tragical and inte- resting narrative he had been told, but they assured him, that he could not pass on. " Why not ?" said he ; " is not the bridge Pont rouge in existence?" "Certainly," replied one of the females ; " but the works of the new Sambre are now going on ; there are three hundred workmen engaged in them, and there are deep trenches w r hich you cannot cross." " Only give me a guide, and I require no fur- ther assistance." The woman, who had spoken last, then went in search of her brother, who happened to be one of the workmen. He offered to conduct us to the trenches, but he repeated what his sister had asserted about the impossibility of passing them. " If the TO BRUSSELS AND COBLENTZ. 79 devil stood in my way," exclaimed the posti- lion, u I would pass take a lantern, and lead the way before me." This conversation, it may be presumed, afforded us no entertain- ment ; but the resolution manifested by the postilion, contributed to inspire us with con- fidence. We now proceeded across the fields, within a hundred paces of the ramparts of a fortified town, with nearly a certainty of being stopped in our progress, if there was a sentinel that should see our lantern, and know what his own duty was. We would gladly have con- sented to be fired at with grape shot from the batteries, on condition that no one should come out of the town after us. When we reached the trench, I wished to cross it on foot, but the postilion would not consent. He got 80 NARRATIVE OF A JOURNEY down to reconnoitre the passage, andfindinga spot which was rather deep, but not wide, he re-mounted his horse, and brought us over with the utmost dexterity and address. Our guide then conducted us through the fields, and quitted us only when we reached the high road ; we then proceeded towards Mons, with an absolute certainty of reaching it with- out further obstacle. Before I gave myself up to joy and exulta- tion, I poured out my acknowledgments to God for my happy escape, and wished to congratu- late d' Avaray on our good fortune ; as, however, we were not yet out of France, he endea- voured to check my transports, particularly as Sayer did not yet know who 1 was. But TO BRUSSELS AND COBLENTZ. 81 he was immersed in a deep sleep, reclining on rny shoulder, andd'Avaray was too well pleased to forbear sharing in my satisfaction. I began by seizing on the cursed tri-coloured cockade, and apostrophising it in the following verse of Arm i da : " Vain ornament of ignoble ease," I tore it from my hat, and requested d'Avaray to preserve it carefully, as Christopher Colum- bus preserved his chains. We then discussed the point how we should act on arriving at Mons, which we imagined to be a fortified place, and expected to find the gates closed before our arrival. We determined on halt- ing in the suburbs, in hopes of finding G 32 NARRATIVE OF A JOURNEY beds ; and if we could not procure lodgings, it was resolved that I should write to the com- mandant in my own name, and request the gate to be opened. We calculated on the pos- sibility of being accommodated with only one bed, and I told d'Avaray, that in that case he should occupy it, and I would pass the night in my arm-chair. But he declared positively, that he would not consent, and would prefer having a mattress by my bed-side on the floor. I insisted on his sharing the bed, which was yet in idea, and as every thing then as- sumed the aspect of gaiety in my imagination, I parodied the verses of Hippoly tus and Aricia, beginning with " Under the standards of Mars," TO BRUSSELS AND COBLENTZ. 83 and having substituted the word " mattress" for " misery/' that improvement threw us into fits of laughter. In the midst of these plans, conjectures, and arguments, the recollections of our journey, and a thousand other little cir- cumstances that appeared interesting to two of the happiest beings in the world, we reach- ed the village of Bossu, which lies within a quarter of a league of Mons. Our postilion, who had never been there before, took it for the suburbs, and we knocked at several doors without being able to prevail on the inmates to open even one. The postilion then said that he could see the cathedral of Mons, but, on a closer inspection, it proved to be a pigeon-house. We continued to advance, however, and found ourselves actually in the 2 84 NARRATIVE OF A JOURNEY suburbs, when a blacksmith, whom we con- trived to rouse, pointed us out an inn, but one of so revolting- an appearance, that we deter- mined to use it only for the purpose of writing to the commandant of Mons. I then got out of my carriage for the first time during twenty-four hours ; w^e knocked at the door, the maid appeared, and asked what we wanted : " Only to write a letter," replied I ; and upon hearing this, she imme- diately shut the door in my face. But the postilion, who longed for some refreshment, repeated his knocks till the door was opened, and at last we procured an entrance. I had great need of a little rest, especially as my legs had become entirely stiff, so that it was with. TO BRUSSELS AND COBLENTZ. 8f> great difficulty that 1 coii Id walk. My first care on alighting, whilst iny companions inquired into the means of accommodation which this place might afford, was to throw myself on my knees, to return thanks to God in a more suitable posture than I had hitherto been per- mitted to adopt. Having paid this sacred tribute, I performed another not less pleasingly obligatory, by clasping in my arms my dear friend d'Avaray, on whom I was now enabled, for the first time, to bestow, without fear or apprehension, the title of my saviour. How- ever, we soon discovered that we could find neither refreshment nor lodging at this mise- rable inn, and all we could obtain was a little beer of the worst description. 86 NARRATIVE OF A JOURNEY We then formed a resolution to write to the commandant, when Peronnet conveyed the letter, and, in the mean time, we began to con- verse over a wretched coal fire with our pos- tilion, who boldly placed himself on a chair beside me. I asked him to tell me his name, which he said was La Jeunesse. It was not from a motive of mere curiosity, on my part, that I made this inquiry, for it was a matter of concern to me, to be ac- quainted with the name of a man who had served me so essentially without knowing the real state of the case. I afterwards asked him if there were many of the constitutional clergy at Avesnes, who had taken the oath of ad- herence to the new system. " We have several of them among us, "replied he; " but the great TO BRUSSELS AND COBLENTZ. 87 majority remain firm to their duty. A new oath has also been in vented for the army, which only sets the officer and soldier by the ears ; but God knows how all this will end !" D'Ava- ray then asked him about the regiment of Vintimille; what disposition it shewed under the recent changes. " That regiment," replied he, " is very quiet and peaceable ; but it was for- merly accustomed to exercise three times a week, it w r as a pleasure to see it. Now it parades only once a week ; they march out at seven o'clock, and return at eight; and you hear neither right-face nor left-face ! bul the music is playing all the time." I then questioned him about Maubeuge ; whether the gates of that place were closed, and to whom it was necessary to apply to have them opened ; 88 NARRATIVE OF A JOURNEY \vhether to the commandant, or the muni- cipality ? " Ah ! parbleu" replied he, " to the municipality by all means ! they have now gained possession of every thing. But what are they ? a set of despicable miscreants. Only guess who it is, in a village which we lately passed (he then mentioned a village, the name of which I forget) that commands the nation, with two large epaulettes ; he is a vinegar merchant." While amusing us with these particulars, he shrugged up his shoulders, and gave full effect to his narra- tives, by the tones and gestures which accom- panied them. In short, by his conversation, he made us forget the fatigue and hunger which distressed us. However, when Peron- net announced to us that the gates were TO BRUSSELS AND COBLENTZ. 89 opened for our reception, our appetites in- duced us to receive the intelligence with much satisfaction. La Jeunesse then told us that the best inn at Mons, was the Couronne-Impe- riale, whither we directed him to conduct us. On our entry into the town, we were re- quired to give our names and descriptions. D'Avaray, to whom this question was addressed, hesitated for a while, but I cut the matter short, by declaring that I was Monsieur, the King's brother ; that my companion was the count d'Avaray, and that we wished to put up at the Couronne-Imperiale . The serjeant of the guard then informed us, that we were expected at the Femme Sauvage, and that 90 NARRATIVE OF A JOURNEY Madame was there already. We could Dot conceive in what manner, as she travelled by Tou may, she could have reached Mons ; however, being highly pleased with this ad- ditional instance of good fortune, we gave orders to drive to the Femme Sauvage. On our arrival at the door, we met the landlord, who repeated to us the intelligence of our being expected ; but after ascending a very disagreeable staircase, we met a servant hold- ing a light in his hand, who, after examining me from head to foot, told me, with some degree of confusion, that I was not the person they expected. The chamber door was open, and a female, who was in bed, exclaimed, "It is not he do not let him in." The landlord then inspected me in his turn, and asked me TO BRUSSELS AND COBLENTZ. 91 if I was the count de Fersen ? " No, truly, " replied I ; " but as the lady will not accom- modate us, cannot you provide us with another apartment?" A cold and repulsive monosylla- ble of denial was his only answer. We were, as naturally might be expected, greatly mortified by this adventure, which at first promised to be highly agreeable and flattering ; and going down stairs, we regained our car- riage, and proceeded to the Couronne-Im- periale ; the landlord of that inn also inform- ed us, that he had no room to give us. This unpleasant accident tended to increase our mortification, when a voice, issuing from the house, uttered these words. " M. d'Avarav, is that you ?" He did not im- / mediately recognize her, but soon dis- 92 NARRATIVE OF A JOURNEY covered that it was madauie de Balbi. We instantly alighted, and, entering the house, inadame de Balbi began to provide some supper for us. The provisions at the inn were wretched, but she happily had a cold fowl, and a bottle ofVin de Bourdeaux, with which we regaled ourselves much to our satis- faction. She then had the kindness to resign her bed for my accommodation. D'Avaray occupied that of her waiting-maid, and after a period of twenty months and upwards, I now, for the first time, lay down to rest, with- out the apprehension of being roused from my slumbers by some fresh scene of horror. I slept about six hours, and was awakened by M. de la Chatre, who happened to be at. TO BRUSSELS AND COBLENTZ. 93 Mons, and whose impatience to visit me in- duced him to break in on my night's repose. Shortly after I rose, I witnessed the arrival of the count de Fersen, who had conducted the King as far as Bondi. Nothing was now wanting to complete my happiness, being fully persuaded, as I really was, (for I must acknowledge that I knew nothing of the par- ticulars of the plan of escape), that if the King was once clear of Paris, he had no further danger to encounter. I therefore gave way to my exultation, and embraced M. de Fersen with great cordiality and affection. As soon as I was dressed, I received the visits of all the French at Mons, and of all the Austrian officers in the garrison. I was much flatter- ed with the reception that I met with, but I 94 NARRATIVE OF A JOURNEY was eager to proceed on the road to Namur. I could not, however, set off before two o'clock, because the wheelwright, who was employed to mend the felly of the wheel, that gave us so much trouble the day before, happened to break the next, so that in order to proceed, it was necessary to fasten it with a cramp of iron, and we started from Mons, in the same condi- tion that we left it. I made enquiries after JLa Jeunesse. I found that he had been paid ten louis ; that he was struck with terror when he learned who it was that he drove, but the sight of so much gold had so delighted him, that lie took himself off with wonderful dispatch, giving himself no further concern about the business. I afterwards discovered that he extri- cated himself from all difficulty by declaring TO BRUSSELS AND COBLENTZ. 95 that we compelled him by violence to conduct us, and was much pleased to find that he suffered no inconvenience on account of the danger which he incurred in our service. Our journey from Mons to Namur furnishes no details to excite or gratify the curiosity of the public. The mu- tual felicitations of two friends, one of whom is justly proud of having saved the life of the other, while the other feels his happiness more ex- quisitely , because he owes it to his friend, possess little interest in the eyes of the rest of the world, however delightful they may be to the parties themselves. We reached Namur very late in the evening, hungry and fatigued. I recollect that the supper, which we had at the Hotel de Hollande, was but indifferent, though we found it excellent. But our hearts were 96 NARRATIVE OF A JOURNEY full : we had some fine-flavoured Rhenish, and we did ample justice to it; and, altogether, I never enjoyed any supper in my life so highly as that at Namur. In the morning, I was visited by General de Moitelle, who commanded at Namur, and by all the officers of the garrison, which was much more numerous than that of Mons. They seemed to me so pleased to have me amongst them, and so zealous for the Royal cause, that I must have been the most ungrateful of mankind, had I not been duly sensible of their demonstrations of attachment. It gave me no less pleasure to witness their attenti- ons to my friend, d'Avaray, and, in this respect, they seemed to penetrate into the sentiments TO BRUSSELS AND COBLENTZ. 97 of my heart, and to judge most correctly, that any mark of respect to him, was considered by me as paid personally to myself. In the mean time, though I felt no uneasiness about the King, I was surprized at receiving no news from Montmedy ; nor did I think it prudent to run the hazard of repairing to Longwy, before I knew that we were masters of that district. In this view, I determined on requesting gene- ral de Moitelle, to send an estafette to the commandant of Luxembourg, with orders to report whatever intelligence he might collect, from any quarter, respecting the King, as I was fully determined, if I did not hear from him, to push on to Luxembourg. Although we had been assured that we should H 93 NARRATIVE OF A JOURNEY meet with very bad and unpleasant roads, we were, during the first stage, inclined to laugh at these predictions. We found, however, after a short progress, that our previous information was correct. The iron-pins that fastened the fore-part of our carriage, were insuffi- cient to resist the shocks arising from the roughness of the road, and we endeavoured to secure them by cords, but this expedient proved fruitless, and it became necessary to stop at a place called Nattoye, to have new ones made. As the sun shone very powerfully on the spot where we halted, I proposed to d'Avaray to retire under the shade, and we removed towards a house, in front of which was a wooden bench, nearly half-burnt, a circumstance which excited our surprize* TO BRUSSELS AND COBLENTZ. 09 A woman came out of the house, and asked us to come in, and take some refreshment. We declined her offer, but we accepted the loan of some chairs, which she placed before the door. D'Avaray then sent Sayer for his portfolio, and marked with ink the notes of our journey, which he had written with a pencil before. While he was thus occu- pied, two females, one of them elderly and the other younger, came up to the bench. The young one took her seat on it, and the elderly woman, having laid down a heavy load, which she was carrying, threw herself care- lessly on the ground, and seemed to be much distressed. We asked her what was the matter, when the mistress of the inn, (for the house happened to be one) told us that they were H 2 100 NARRATIVE OF A JOURNEY two German women, from Wurtzburg, who were employed in going errands for the officers of the garrison of Namur. The younger looked at the elder in the most affec- tionate manner ; we could not understand their conversation, but the word "Mamma," pronounced by a voice as sweet as a flute, penetrated our ears, and vibrated on our hearts. We prevailed on the landlady to relieve her, who offered her some beer, but she requested a little brandy. The former replied, that she had none, and that the wife of the blacksmith, who was then repairing our carriage, could have furnished some, but that she was at church. Fortunately, however, some of the boys of the village were passing, and she dispatched one of them, who took upon himself, very TO BRUSSELS AND COBLENTZ. 1Q1 cheerfully, the office of procuring some brandy. Whilst we were waiting for his return, we expressed our surprise to the land- lady, at her having no brandy in her house. " Alas ! gentlemen," said she, " you little know what we have suffered in these strange times. I myself have become a cripple, and I will inform you how this accident befell me. During the retreat of the troops, the soldiers seized every thing for their subsistence ; so that for two days I remained without any food. I was quite overcome with debility, and on the last day of the retreat I fell from the top of my staircase to the ground, and put my hip-bone out of joint. The patriots came on the following day : my husband took to flight, but, feeble and hurt as I was, 102 NARRATIVE OF A JOURNEY I was unable to accompany him. The soldiers', enraged at our admitting the enemy into our houses, took all our furniture, and made a fire with it in the middle of the apartment. They even seemed inclined to throw me into the flames. They afterwards altered their plan, and breaking my crutches, they dragged me about the house and crippled me as you see." As she uttered these words, she made me lay my hand on her hip, and I perceived that the bone was completely dislodged, and could not be set again. At this moment, the boy whom she had dispatched, came up with a glass of brandy ; it was handed to the old woman, who drank a little, and then gave it to her daughter ; the latter just wetted her lips, and returned the glass to her mother. We wished TO BRUSSELS AND COBLENTZ. 103 to give the boy some money, but the landlady said she had given him twelve sous ; we were willing to give him more, but he took himself off so expeditiously, that we saw him no more. We then handed the landlady a six livres piece, and she brought out to the poor woman some bread, butter, and beer. The elder, having recovered her strength, rose, and threw herself on her knees before us, and kissed our hands ; we raised her up ; 1 took off my hat, and pointing to heaven, ex- claimed : Gott, Gott ! upon this she took out her beads, and pressing them to her breast, began to pray with great fervency. In the mean time, the landlady, with whom we continued to converse about her 104 NARRATIVE OF A JOURNEY sufferings, resumed her discourse: u Alas ! gentlemen," cried she, " revolutions are terri- ble things : the changes in my own country afflict me as much as those in France ; and I am much concerned about my poor friends and relations. I was born at Frombaine, in the neighbourhood of Givet : I use all my endeavours to induce them to quit that place, but I cannot succeed. This adds still more to my wretchedness ! Ah ! gentlemen, there is nothing of value but God, our King, and our Country." The expressions and beha- viour of the old woman, brought tears into d'Avaray's eyes; and I myself felt much emotion from the simple narrative of the landlady. "Well, then," said I, "my good woman, since these are your sentiments, pray TO BRUSSELS AND COBLENTZ. 105 to God for the King : his life is now, per- haps, in great danger: he has left Paris." " O God !" cried she, " what do yon tell me ?" " Yes," excjaimed d'Avaray , u this is the King's brother ; who escaped at the same time with his Majesty." "And this," cried I, u is the friend who has saved my life." I then threw myself into his arms our tears mingled together ; and even Sayer, who had retired into a corner, began to wipe his eyes. The landlady, deeply affected, exclaimed : " And are you really the brother of the King ? Ah ! if I durst touch you " " Do more, my good woman," said I, "embrace me !" By this time our carriage was repaired. I gave a louis to the old woman : she wished to kiss my hand again, but I embraced her : and we set 10T) NARRATIVE OF A JOURNEY off. This accident had retarded us so much, that we could not now hope to reach Bastogne, where we calculated on passing the night. We therefore resolved to halt at Marche; and we sent Sayer forward to order supper at the post-house; which the post-master of Emp- tines, who seemed to be a connoisseur in good cheer, had recommended to us as an excellent inn. On our arrival in the town, we were con- ducted to a house of respectable appearance, and were pleased at reaching so good a place of entertainment, but we soon learned that we were under the roof of an old officer of the regiment of Ligne, who wished to receive us, because, notwithstandingthe recom- mendation of the post-master, the post-house was but an indifferent place. This was an TO BRUSSELS AND COBLENTZ. 107 unpleasant discovery for me, as I have no high opinion of entertainments provided by friends. I cast a doleful glance on d'Avaray, whose countenance appeared lengthened to the same dimensions as my own. Our melancholy increased, when our host, who had got out of bed (at nine o'clock at night) expressed his regret that lie had not been apprised of our approach two hours before, as he could have provided us with some pigeons, a la crapaudine, but his pigeons were in the pigeon-house, and his pullets were all alive. He had, however, sent to the post-house for a leg of mutton, and he pro- mised to furnish us with chops, a salad, and fresh eggs. We thus met with short commons, and, what was worse, his cook came 108 NARRATIVE OF A JOURNEY back in a rage against the post-mistress, who refused, as she said, to let her have the leg of mutton. Our host then offered us some veal cutlets, which we were obliged to accept. We were rather alarmed on the score of wine, when chance threw in our way an invoice of a cask of old Volnay wine of the first quality. This discovery afforded us no small pleasure. We turned the conversation on the wine that he usually drank, which he assured us was Vin de Bar, but as the last vintage had been unfavourable, he had ordered some Burgundy, which had come to hand a fortnight before, but which he was advised to let quietly repose in the cellar for a month. At this moment we really believed ourselves to be in a Spanish inn, and we were repeating betvi een ourselves TO BRUSSELS AND COBLENTZ. 109 that Marche en Famine was a very proper name for the town. But, to our agreeable surprise, the supper proved excellent, and M. Donne (that was the name of our host) was very good company, and had the kind- ness to broach this cask of Volnay, which i turned out to possess a very superior flavour. On the following day, the duke de Laval, his second son, and several young persons of quality, joined us, and attended our levee. M. de Falhouet, a gentleman of Brittany, offered to travel before me, in order to procure intelligence from such couriers as he should meet. I ac- cepted his offer, and we set out, but hardly had we advanced two leagues, when we saw M. de Falhouet returning with the dismal news of the affair at Varennes. 110 NARRATIVE OF A JOURNEY I might here terminate my narrative, as the mission of my dear d'Avaray had been fulfilled, and the character which, after the arrest of the King, I took upon myself, seems rather to belong to the province of general history, than to a private narrative like the present. However, I have a few more re- collections which I wish to introduce on this occasion, and those who may feel interest enough in the events which I record about myself, to induce them to peruse the narrative to the conclusion, will not be displeased to find them here. The distress and anguish with which the late intelligence oppressed me, may be easily conceived ; I regretted the suc- cess of my own enterprise. I even felt an in- clination to return to France, to submit once TO BRUSSELS AND COBLENTZ. HI more to my captivity, and to share the sorrows of my unhappy relatives ; but I reflected, that without being able to serve them, I should ruin, not only myself, but, what was still dearer to me, my friend and saviour, whom nothing could induce to separate himself from me. On his part, as if sensible of my secret deliberations, he declared instantaneous- ly, that if I was bent on returning to France, he conjured me to feel no hesitation, on his account, as he was resolved to follow me to any quarter, without the least appre- hension. This new proof of his courage- ous devotion would have been sufficient to decide my conduct, had I not been determined already, and 1 ordered the postilion to drive us back to Marche. On the road, I met the 112 NARRATIVE OF A JOURNEY duke de Laval, whom I took into the carriage. Tears, which in the first instance would not flow, now came to my relief, and I me- ditated with more coolness on the mode of proceeding, which it was most prudent to adopt, in the new career which lay before me. On our arrival at Marche, we were joined by M. de Bouille's son, who acquainted us with the details of the late transaction which dissipated all our hopes. I felt inclined, at first, to take up my residence at Brussels, but as the road from Marche lo Namur, which is the shortest way, passes very near the frontiers, and as it was reported that some acts of hostility had taken place, we discussed the point, whether we might not pass by Liege. In the mean time, we inspected our arms, and, having found TO BRUSSELS AND COBLENTZ. H3 that^we had sixteen pistol shot to fire, a suffi- cient defence against a small party, we deter- mined on returning to Namur in the caravan style. I only took the precaution to ^end forward M. de Betizy, one of the young gentlemen whom I mentioned above, with a message to general de Moitelle, request- ing an escort of Hulans. My young friend exerted himself with such activity, the general was so prompt in his good will, and the Hulans so zealous in our cause, that they joined us at three leagues from Namur, and we arrived in that town without any other accident than breaking down once more, through the awkwardness of a postilion. The joy that I experienced on my arrival 114 NARRATIVE OF A JOURNEY in meeting with madame, was embittered by reflecting ou the state of the rest of our family, and the comparison which I could not refrain from making between their condition and my own. Being determined on joining the count d'Artois, I wrote him word that I was on my way to Brussels, in expectation of hearing from him, and requesting him to ap- point a meeting, I dispatched two couriers to him, one by the route of Luxembourg, and the other by that of Aix-La-Chapelle. In the mean time, as I learned that the bishop of Nanuir proposed to receive me in his palace, and that the clergy of the Low Countries had misbehaved during the revolution, I consulted general de Moitelle, who advised me to accept the offer. We therefore quitted our inn, and TO BRUSSELS AND COBLENTZ. 115 went to take up our quarters with the bishop : we found a very good supper provided for us, but met with some difficulty in the officious attentions of the bishop, who wished to make us drink more than we thought proper, par- ticularly some anniseed , a species of ratafia, more heady than kirsch-wasser. On the following day, before I set out for Brussels, I wrote a letter, addressed at random to the King, the Queen/and my sister : this letter I am assured never reached its destination. My plan was now to take up my abode at Brussels, in the inn, but the archduchess would never consent to it, and she lodged us in a small house at- tached to her palace, as the palace itself was not fit to receive us, having been dismantled of its furniture during the late troubles. I 2 11C NARRATIVE OF A JOURNEY Every Frenchman in that city requested to be presented to me, but I was in too much trouble about my unhappy family, to be in a state to receive any body. On the following day, I had a letter from the count d'Artois, announcing his approach. I went out to meet him, and, for a mo- ment, forgot all my past troubles, my present afflictions, and my fears for the future, while 1 held in my arms a brother and a friend, whom our common sorrows had separated from me for nearly two years. The joy which he expressed at meeting me, gave me, perhaps, less pleasure than the reception which he gave to my dear d'Avaray. In the mean time, as we learned that the King had arrived at Paris, and that the lives of our family were safe, we TO BRUSSELS AND COBLENTZ. 1 17 came to a resolution to appear in public, and the archduchess accommodated us with her grand apartment to receive the French. The satisfaction which the}' all expressed, at seeing me once more, and that which I felt myself, naturally drew my thoughts towards him, who was the author of this affecting scene, and I did not fail to pay the sacred tribute of gratitude, by proclaiming loudly the mighty obligations which I felt towards the saviour of my life. I was well repaid for this expression of my feelings, for, after the levee, all the noblesse went in a body to pay him a visit. Let me be allowed to express my opinion, that of all the flattering things which I have expe- rienced during my life, this is the one which lies nearest to my heart. Self-love, in some de- 118 NARRATIVE OF A JOURNEY gree, certainly entered into the sentiment, but friendship and gratitude were the chief ingredients in my feelings. The week which I then passed at Brussels, was, perhaps, the most busy week of my life. Placed all at once at the head of one of the greatest ma- chines that was ever called into play, I found it necessary, not only to direct the present, but to have recourse to the past, of which, during my confinement, I had no knowledge, and to turn its application to the present crisis. I am persuaded that I should never have been able to master this point without the assistance of the count d' Artois. Far from feeling any senti- ments of jealousy on his side, after all the pains and trouble he had taken on himself, or from being displeased at the arrival of a colleague TO BRUSSELS AND COBLENTZ. 119 that might deprive him of a part of his glory- he took every opportunity to give me infor- mation, to assist me, push me forward and procure me every consideration ; in a word, he was not like a brother, but an affectionate and dutiful son. It was Charles V. throwing himself into the arms of King John after his captivity. This manifestation of sympathy was exhibited in a very affecting manner at the final audience that we gave to all the noblesse, previous to our quitting Brussels. 1 shall not pretend to describe the scene ; my feelings were too powerful for any expres- sion. On the 3d of July, we set out for Liege, and took up our abode at the Aigle noir. As 120 NARRATIVE OF A JOURNEY we now had a large retinue, and the house was not very extensive, d'Avaray and myself occu- pied the same apartment. That circumstance, as it recalled to my mind a period not very dis- tant, in which/travelling in the same country, we alone existed for each other on the surface of the earth, gave me a feeling of satisfaction. On the fourth, we arrived at Aix-la-Chapelle, were we found the King of Sweden, who, better in- formed than ourselves, about the plan of the escape of the King, had repaired to this town under the pretext of seeking the waters, but with the real view of being near the theatre of those grand transactions, in which his lofty mind led him to wish to engage. I have forgot to mention, that on his learning X TO BRUSSELS AND COBLENTZ. 121 the arrest of the King, he had written to me a very charming letter on the subject ; and it forms an anecdote of an interesting nature, that this letter was conveyed to me by the baron de Lieven, the same who, in 1772, had announced to the late King, my grand-father, the news of the revolution that placed the crown on the head of Gustavus III. We stopped a whole day at Aix-la-Chapelle, to converse more freely with that prince, whose great and excellent qualities we had every rea- son to admire. In this town I experienced a pleasure which was highly gratifying to my feelings. The count d'Hautefort, the friend of d'Avaray from his early infancy, no sooner heard of my escape, than leaving his family at 122 NARRATIVE OF A JOURNEY Heidelberg-, where he was established, he hastened to join us, and we met him on our arrival at Aix-la-Chapelle. I was highly de- lighted with this attention on the part of a man who, at that time, was only, with respect to me, a very agreeable acquaintance, but I was gratified at seeing my deliverer receive a new fruit of his services to me, in recovering a friend whom he had not seen for nearly two years. His self- love may have been gratified more than once, but, in this instance, it was the pure enjoyment of the heart. I could not fail to share in his sa- tisfaction ; and since I have become better ac- quainted with the count d'Hautefort, I have myself derived much gratification from the connection. On the sixth, we slept at Bonn, in the TO BRUSSELS AND COBLENTZ. 123 palace of the Elector of Cologne, whom we saw at Aix-la-Chapelle ; and on the 7th, we arrived at Coblentz. The Elector of Treves, my uncle, had offered the castle of Schon- bornslust to the Count d'Artois before my escape, and he had now the same kindness for madame and myself. I recollected having seen him in France, nearly thirty years be- fore. In beholding him again, I felt a sincere pleasure ; and the reception which he gave us, was the forerunner of all the favours which he has bestowed both on ourselves, and on all Frenchmen, whom the desire of serving the cause of the throne and the altar, had engaged to unite themselves with us. It was at this crisis that my political life pro- perly began. 1 might again close my nar- 124 NARRATIVE OF A JOURNEY rativeat this place : but I should not be content, nor would my readers be satisfied any more than myself, if I had nothing more to com- municate. Three weeks had already elapsed after my escape ; and, as yet, I had done no- x thing for my liberator. I suffered more than I can express, from the idea that the prince should continue ungrateful, while the friend poured out his acknowledgments of grati- tude. At last, I received a letter from the duke c!e Lev is, who, "after some reproaches for my leaving him in absolute ignorance, con- cluded by giving in his resignation. As soon as I received the letter, I ran to d'Avaray, who was astonished when I named him the successor of the Duke de Levis, and who thanked me as if I had riot acquitted a most TO BRUSSELS AND COBLENTZ. 125 sacred obligation by this measure, and as if Ihad not a thousand times more pleasure in discharging the debt, than I had in con- ing it. I know not what may be the destiny of my country, or my own, But, whatever may be the dispensation of Providence respecting myself it can never take from me, as much as it has given me, in the possession of such a friend as my dear d'Avaray. THE END. J. Green, Printer, Leicester Street, Leicester Square. 14 DAY USE RETURN TO DESK FROM WHICH BORROWED LOAN DEPT. This book is due on the last date stamped below, or on the date to which renewed. Renewed books are subject to immediate recall. S AU*'62PA RErrn f n UK o fcf fflfi? JUL & o iJOc - T -n 01 A sn a 'RI General Library tr IVOR!? University of California (C1795slO)476U Berkeley THE UNIVERSITY OF CALIFORNIA LIBRARY