CampbelFs 
 
 I'ea^ Coffee and 
 
 Spice Manual 
 
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 $B EbO 577 
 
 Published by 
 Lute E. Campbell 
 
GIFT OF 
 
 
Digitized by tine Internet Arciiive 
 
 in 2007 witin funding from 
 
 IVJicrosQft Corporation 
 
 littp://www.arcliive.org/details/campbellsteacoffOOcampricli 
 
CampbelFs 
 
 Tea, Coffee and 
 
 Spice Manual 
 
 A Comprehensive Trade Manual 
 
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 Teas, Coffees and Spices 
 
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 Published by 
 Lute E. Campbell 
 
 316 W. Second St. 
 Los Angeles, California 
 
Compiled 
 
 and 
 
 Published by 
 
 LUTE E. CAMPBELL 
 
 For the information and 
 protection of Merchants 
 
 and 
 
 Dedicated to those interested 
 
 I. < • • 
 
 i i 
 
 * • * * i i • • • - • • ♦ • • 
 
 • ^ *' <•#'• 
 
 Oopyri&M 1920 
 
 by 
 
 LUTE E. CAMPBHIiL 
 
The writer does not challenge Criticism, but 
 honestly courts it. If, in the perusal of this /work, 
 you find an error, or an article, which, in your 
 judgment, is incorrect, or incomplete, and you have 
 more authentic *'data" at hand, please forward 
 same to the author. 
 
 He will at all times be glad to receive honest 
 criticism, reliable information, opinions and sug- 
 gestions from those interested in and acquainted 
 with the subjects' herein treated. 
 
 Any special informatipn cheerfully furnished for 
 the asking, if oibtainable. 
 
 THE AUTHOR. 
 
 O 
 
 429040 
 
AN'AUBI ,, ., ^ . 
 
 The writer first turned m's Vtterition 'towkrd' 
 Teas and Coffees in the early eighties, when the 
 public knew scarcely any other than China and 
 Japan Teas, and at which time, and for many years 
 thereafter, the same unsuspecting public were buy- 
 ing principally Mocha and Java Coffee, and drink- 
 ing principally Rio, together with some Central 
 American Coffees. 
 
 In the course of time he graduated from a whole- 
 sale grocery salesman to a Tea and Coffee spe- 
 cialty salesman, thence to a Tea and Coffee spe- 
 cialist (so-called), thence to a blender of Coffees, 
 with accumulated experience as a roaster — at the 
 same time a blender of Teas, with a reasonable 
 degree of success, and finally to a buyer and 
 blender of both Teas and Coffees for Wholesale 
 Grocers, Tea and Coffee Houses and Wholesale 
 Roasters, and is at this time acting in the capacity 
 of buyer and blender of Teas and Coffees for one 
 of the largest and most prominent Wholesale Gro- 
 cers and Coffee Roasters on the Pacific Coast. 
 While he has never had the temerity to call him- 
 self an expert, he has, during these many years, 
 accumulated a considerable fund of knowledge and 
 experience, and knowing from the latter just how 
 hard it is to acquire the former, he has compiled 
 the following for those interested in Teas, Coffees, 
 Spices, etc. 
 
 The data herein contained is the result of years 
 of study, research and experience, and the writer's 
 thorough personal acquaintance with the Tea and 
 Coffee shrubs and their cultivation, culture, growth, 
 harvesting, etc., both in the Gardens and upon the 
 plantation. The condensed papers (prepared in 
 many instances especially for the writer and this 
 work) from Tea, Coffee and Spice Buyers, Brokers 
 and salesmen from China, Japan, Java, Ceylon and 
 India, on Teas, and South and Central America and 
 
Jklexicpv .on Coffees, , fron?' clippings from various 
 ,l^ii(;rii>3$kl^, Pn^yciop^dias , and various sources of 
 authority, as well as Government reports and Bul- 
 letins, and will not only be found to be more than 
 brdinarily authentic and reliable, but should he of 
 incalculable help and value to all desiring infor- 
 mation on the subjects treated. 
 
 The writer also wishes to refer to Coffee papers 
 by such old and, prominent writers as Mr. W. P. 
 Hiern, Prof. A. H. Church, Mr. Preston, and Mr. 
 Ellis; to Tea papers by Mr. J. L. Shand, of Ceylon; 
 Hellyer & Co., Chicago; J. C. Whitney & Co., New 
 York; Carter^Macy Co., New York; also P. L. Sim- 
 monds' F. L. S., F. R. C. I., works published in Lon- 
 don on Teas, Coffees, Seeds and Spices; also to 
 Fluokiger ,& Hanbury's "History of the Principal 
 Drugs"; to Mr. James McPherson's article on Tea 
 in the Journal of the Society of Arts, and to Mr. 
 J. Miers* paper on "Mat6" in the "Transactions of 
 the Linnean (Society, 1861", in "Annals and Maga- 
 zine of Natural History." 
 
 Extracts from the above authorities, segregated 
 and arranged by the author for the information, 
 convenience and( protection of brokers, mercliants 
 and salesmen. 
 
 Also general information and expressions through 
 and from intimate acquaintance with the Tea and 
 Coffee Trade Journal, 79 Wall Street, New York, 
 and the Simmons Spice Mill, 79 Water Street, New 
 York. 
 
 The leading Tea, Coffee and Spice Journals in 
 the United States and, in the writer's opinion, the 
 most reliable authority in the world. 
 
 Emphatically emphasized points throughout this 
 work are points that should be especially remem- 
 bered, for in most instances they will not only be 
 the particular subject in hand, but will be among 
 the information most desired. 
 
AMERICA'S FOREIGN COFFEE TRADING 
 
 The foreign Coffee trade of the United States, 
 according to statistics prepared by the Bureau of 
 Foreign and Domestic Commerce, approximated 
 normal, with high record shipments and increased 
 average prices during the fiscal year 1919. Re- 
 ceipts exceeded those of the "peace" year 1914 
 hy only 4.5 per cent and were 8.2 per cent below 
 those of 1918, the last full ; ear of the war. Ship- 
 ments (that is, exports and re-exports to foreign 
 countries and sales to non-contiguous territories 
 of the United States), on the other hand, were 
 87.4 per cent greater in quantity and 116.4 per 
 cent greater in value than in 1914, and also sur- 
 passed, in both quantity and value, those of 1918. 
 
 The average price of the coffee received in 1919 
 was 13.7 cents a pound, contrasted with 9 cents 
 in 1918, and a shade over 11 cents in 1914; and the 
 average price of the coffee (both domestic and 
 foreign) shipped was 18.6 cents compared with 13 
 cents in 1918 and 16.1 cents in 1914. As regards 
 domestic raw coffee alone, the average export 
 price was 19.5 cents in 1919, 14.5 cents in 1918, and 
 16.2 cents in 1914. 
 
 The United States has long been the largest 
 Coffee consuming country in the world in the 
 aggregate, though not per capita, but with the 
 advent of nation-wide prohibition, an increase in 
 the per capita consumption is expected, with the 
 once popular "coffee house" of England to supplant 
 the "bar." 
 
 COFFEE HISTORY 
 
 The early history of Coffee is only to be gleaned 
 from mythology, at least to a great extent. It is 
 claimed by many to have been native to Abyssinia 
 and Ethiopia; however, the concensus of opinion 
 seems to be that the civilized world is indebted to 
 Africa for the Coffee Bean. 
 
 9 
 
Its early history is clouded in tradition, but it 
 appears to have been known by the Ethiopians of 
 Northern Africa from time immemorial. It was 
 not, however, used in the form of a beverage, but 
 was toasted, or roasted, crushed and mixed with 
 animal fats and rolled into balls about the size of 
 a billiard ball. These were used as food: one of 
 them, it is said, being capable of sustaining a man 
 for a day. It was preferred by these people to 
 either meat or bread, as it cheered as well as 
 sustained. Its use reached Abyssinia toward the 
 end of the thirteenth century, and traveled about 
 two hundred years later into Arabia. It is claimed 
 that Coffee was first introduced into Arabia in the 
 year 875 A. D., but it did not come into popular 
 favor until the discovery of its excellence as a 
 beverage in the first part of the fifteenth century. 
 This discovery from the mythological accounts 
 we have of it, was purely accidental. It is said 
 that a certain ruler of some Dervishes had a flock 
 of goats, and that he had noticed their antics after 
 feasting on the berries from the Coffee tree. Now, 
 this ruler had been greatly annoyed by the ten- 
 dency of his Dervishesi to "sleep in church", even 
 at this early date, and he was led to believe that 
 if he could in some way induce them to eat a few 
 beans off this aformentioned bush, that they would 
 stay awake during service, be interested and 
 happy. How was he to get them to partake of this 
 little berry? Ah! an infusion of it would shroud 
 its origin in the necessary cloak of mystery. It 
 worked like a charm and( was soon the hit of the 
 hour, to such an extent, in fact, that it fell under 
 the ban of the church, and was expressly forbidden 
 in the Koran, buti without avail — ^Coffee had come 
 to stay. 
 
 The Arabs, however, guarded their secret jeal- 
 ously, and it was almost a hundred years before 
 it was introduced into Turkey. Arabia seems to 
 have been the stepping-stone for the universal 
 consumption of Coffee, and it was Arabian Coffee 
 
 10 
 
shipped through the port of Mocha that shed a 
 halo around the name "Mocha" and led the Coffee 
 world Into using It as a panoply for millions cfi 
 tons that never saw Arabia. In those days Ara- 
 bian merchants were considered the most enter- 
 prising in the world. They stood at the gateway 
 from Asia to Europe, and they added the Coffee 
 bean from Africa to the spices and other luxuries 
 of the Orient. 
 
 The use of Coffee quickly spread outward: first 
 to Persia and Syria, then to Cairo, and in a few 
 years to Venice. 
 
 Then an Arab and an Abyssinian, by names 
 Shem and Heken, opened the first Coffee house in 
 Constantinople, and introduced the Turkish public 
 to this new delight. It took like wildfire, and 
 their house was thronged day and night, and Ori- 
 ental Coffee houses sprang up everywhere in the 
 city. It is said that the poorer classes even 
 begged money in the streets to purchase Coffee. 
 It was soon a firm habit with the Turkish people, 
 and iwe are told that at one time there was an 
 edict issued to the effect that ''failure" to supply 
 a wife with a specified amount of Coffee per diem, 
 was admitted to be a valid cause for divorce. As 
 in Arabia, the drinking of Coffee was opposed on 
 religious grounds, but with the same results. 
 
 It was not until 1615 that Coffee was allowed to 
 tickle the Western palate. This was brought 
 over by some Venetian merchants, and served to 
 their friends, but at this time the price was pro- 
 hibitive, and it was not until 1650 that it was 
 publicly introduced in Europe. At this time a 
 London merchant brought over a quantity of 
 Arabia-n Coffee and an Armenian servant to pre- 
 pare it. He intended serving it to his friends and 
 customers. It proved an instantaneous success 
 with the English public. He found his place so 
 thronged iwith Coffee drinkers, that he was una- 
 ble to conduct his business. Thereupon he gave 
 his Armenian a tent placed on a side street, and 
 
 11 
 
here was opened the first English Coffee House, 
 followed by others rapidly. These were tremen- 
 dously popular and became the gathering places 
 of the famous wits and nobility of the day, and 
 developed into our modern club. 
 
 The progress of the Coffee bean was beset 
 with many obstacles. Although Coffee was im- 
 mediately popular, it had no easy road in Eng- 
 land. It was opposed from every point of view — 
 medical, moral, physical and political, and was 
 excessively taxed. Religiously inclined people 
 denounced Coffee as an insidiously pernicious 
 beverage. Statesmen saw political danger in the 
 discussions which marked the attendance at the 
 Coffee houses. On this ground they were closed 
 by Government orders on several occasions, and 
 in several countries; and governments found 
 new sources of revenue by heavy taxation on ev- 
 ery gallon of Coffee brewed, but the beverage 
 proved its real popularity and worth by out-living 
 all restrictions. 
 
 In 1671 the first Coffee house! or cafe was open- 
 ed in Marseilles. It proved immediately popular, 
 and the cafes soon rivalled the older cabarets in 
 attendance. It was, however, not popular at this 
 time with the Nobility. Louis XIV did not like 
 Coffee, consequently his Court did not. It be- 
 came popular with the Nobility immediately, 
 however, upon his death, and it is said that the 
 family of Louis XV spent $12,000' to $15,000 a year 
 to have Coffee on their table. 
 
 For about fifty years after the advent of Coffee 
 in Europe, the entire supply came from Arabia- 
 Mocha Coffee, so called from the port from which 
 it was shipped. About 1690, however, the Dutch 
 appeared in the Worlds Market with large quan- 
 tities of Java, and from this time on the growing 
 of Coffee soon spread into all parts of the Tropi- 
 cal world. 
 
 It was introduced into India in about 1700, and 
 about twenty years later into Ceylon from Java 
 
 12 
 
by the Dutch, and in 1740 into the Phillipines by- 
 Spanish Missionaries from Java, and at about 
 this time the first shrub or tree was planted in 
 Brazil, now the world's greatest Coffee growing 
 country, and a little later it spread to Cuba, 
 Porto Rico and Mexico, and then to practically all 
 parts of South and Central America. Today Afri- 
 ca, the original source is a comparatively unim- 
 portant factor in the production of Coffee, how 
 ever, considerable is marketed from the Liberian 
 districts. 
 
 In every instance, in all countries, the public's 
 instantaneous acceptance of this delightful bev- 
 erage, although it has been opposed from every 
 point of view, shows that a commodity for which 
 there is a universal craving among mankind, civ- 
 ilized or savage, cannot be denied, regardless of 
 the opposition it incurs, and it is today the sole 
 hot beverage of more than a hundred million peo- 
 ple. 
 
 FROM THE SEED TO THE CUP 
 
 The Coffee bean of commerce is the seed of a 
 fruit, resembling in size and shape a large cran- 
 berry very much. However, its general appear- 
 ance is more frequently referred to as like a 
 medium sized cherry, and is yellowish-red to pur- 
 ple-red when ripe. 
 
 The fruit of the "Cherry" so called, is made up 
 thus: Beginning from the outside: An outside 
 skin resembling the skin of a cherry in texture — 
 A soft pulp — Then a soft glutinous substance, 
 containing a quantity of saccharine, then a parch- 
 ment coating resembling the husk of wheat; then 
 the "Silver-Skin" (like the onion skin). Within 
 this are usually two Coffee beans ; when only one 
 bean is found inside the "Cherry" or "Berry" 
 (This occurs occasionally in all varieties and 
 frequently in a few) the "flat side" (?) still holds 
 the distinguishing groove, but it is nearly as 
 
 13 
 
round as the other. These beans are known as 
 "pea-berries", "male^berries" or "Caracolillo" 
 (Mexican) or "Caracole". They are most plenti- 
 ful on old bushes or trees. 
 
 The| Coffee "berry" is the fruit of an evergreen 
 tree, which in its natural growth is rather slen- 
 der and attains a height of from five to thirty 
 feet. The plant of commerce, however, is dwarfed 
 to about five feet. This seems to render it more 
 sturdy, and also convenient for gathering. 
 
 There are many varieties of Coffee plants, but 
 all having the same general characteristics. Bot- 
 anists seem to differ as to whether or not they 
 are really divisible into different families. Pop- 
 ularly speaking, there are two general types. 
 The Arabian, which is the old type, furnishes 
 practically all of the Coffee of commerce, even 
 the Brazil Man and Java Coffee' belongs to this 
 tyipe. The Liberian is a comparatively new type 
 and was discovered in the wilds of Liberia, 
 (Western Africa). It is now cultivated exten- 
 sively in several countries including Brazil, the 
 Outch East Indies, Ceylon and Java, the latter 
 name sometimes being coupled with it and called 
 African Java or Liberian Java. 
 
 The Maragogipi, a native of Brazil, together 
 with Liberian Coffees are receiving considerable 
 attention on account of the more hardy growth 
 of the plants and the larger size of the bean. 
 They have not the fine cup quality of the Arabian 
 'Coffee, but their size and strength enhance their 
 value for blending. 
 
 Robusta Coffee is a late arrival in the Coffee 
 world, and, has been received by many with con- 
 siderable favor. It is a very mild characterless 
 Coffee and practically neutral used with other 
 Coffees; is usually to be had at a low price and 
 ia frequently used as a "filler" in both the cheap 
 and medium priced blends. 
 
 The Coffee plant requires a warm climate and 
 very warm nights. The soil must be deep and 
 
 14 
 
well drained, and there must be rain every month, 
 and from one hundred to one hundred and fifty 
 inches within the year. 
 
 The Arabian variety grows best at an elevation 
 of from 2500 to 5000 feet, and the Liberiam grows 
 well at 1500 feet down to almost sea level. 
 
 The plant is grown from seed and generally 
 begins to bear after three to five years. The 
 leaves are oblong, dark glossy-green on the upper 
 surface, and rather a pale-green underneath, from 
 five to six inches long, and two or three inches 
 in width. The flowers are white and fragrant, 
 slightly resembling the Jesamine in odor and 
 grow in great clusters in the axils of the leaves. 
 The fruit quickly follows the flower; the flesh or 
 pulp of the fruit is sweet and agreeable in flavor, 
 and is frequently eaten by the pickers. The ber- 
 ries must be taken (picked) from the trees when 
 ripe, as otherwise they fall from the tree and are 
 lost to the planter. 
 
 There are generally two or three main harvests 
 in the course of a year, and cultivation aims to 
 direct the crops as closely to that end as possi- 
 'ble, but to a greater or less degree, the plant 
 bears blossoms and fruit the year round. 
 
 The Coffee beans are at first of a soft bluish or 
 greenish color, becoming hard and flinty on ex- 
 posure, and changing usually with age to a pale 
 yellowish tint and ocasionally almost a golden 
 hue. 
 
 There are, two methods of gathering these ber- 
 ries. In the old, or Arabian method, cloths are 
 spread on the ground and the ripe berries are 
 allowed to fall into these. This insures getting 
 full ripe berries, and raises the standard of the 
 crop decidedly, due to the ripeness of the berry. 
 
 The other method which is in use in practical- 
 ly all of the world, consists in gathering the ber- 
 ry by hand. This method is used in practically 
 every coffee raising country at the present time, 
 
 15 
 
with the exception of Arabia, and has the disad- 
 vantage that some green (immature) berries are 
 gathered which often materially lowers the stand- 
 ard of the crop. This may be guarded against, 
 however, by plunging the berries, at any time un- 
 til roasted, into a bath of water. The green ber- 
 ries are light and will float, and these should be 
 thrown away. 
 
 The next process consists of removing the 
 skin and pulp. By the old, or "sun-dried" meth- 
 od, still in use in some countries, the berries are 
 placed in the sun to dry. Then when fully dry, 
 the skin and pulp are removed by pounding in 
 wooden mortars and winnowed. This method 
 has the disadvantage that son>>© of the berries 
 are crushed or broken, thereby lowering the qual- 
 ity of the batch, but, being dried in the sun in 
 the original skin, all of the flavor is retained, and 
 for this reason it is said to produce more desired 
 results from the consTimers point ot view, though 
 the quality is lower from a marketing view point. 
 
 In the other method, called the West Indian 
 processv the berries are pulped the same day 
 they are gathered, being run between two rollers. 
 Next, water is let in and the pulp floated away, 
 being saved for use a£> a fertilizer, or as a Coffee 
 substitute. The "parchment" beans are then put 
 into a cistern for the removal of the glutinous 
 coating. This is removed hy one of two methods. 
 In the popular method water is added to the ber- 
 ries in the cistern, and they are allowed to set 
 about forty-eight hours. The water is then run 
 off and the berries are washed free of the coat- 
 ing. The other method consists of putting the 
 berries into the cistern without water and allow- 
 ing them to ferment, the coating then removed 
 as in the former method. The latter method is 
 preferable from the consumers view point, since 
 it is claimed that in allowing the berries to set 
 in the water for two days, some of the flavor and 
 aroma is lost. 
 
 1« 
 
The berries are dried, preferably in the sun, 
 when the air is not too damp and hot, but if there 
 is danger of fermentation, which will take place 
 under these conditions, they are machine dried. 
 This method does not seem to have any injurious 
 effect on the quality of the Coffee produced. 
 
 The berries are then run through a "peeler," 
 and the parchment and "silver-skin" removed, the 
 waste being winnowed away. They are then 
 sorted according to size, cleaned of rubbish, trash, 
 etc., and packed. 
 
 The method of sizing or grading varies: some- 
 times an inclined revolving cylindrical sieve, di- 
 vided into different sized meshes is used; again 
 in some of the more up-to-date plantations, sep- 
 arators of the eccentric or vibrator type have 
 succeeded the former method. The separation in 
 either method is followed up by a careful sorting 
 over by hand, especially of the better grades. 
 
 In olden times the product was now ready for 
 market, as practically everyone roasted their own 
 Cofee; now-a-days, however, by far the greater 
 part or the Coffee sold is already roasted. 
 
 This roasting, although it is not generally 
 known by the people, is a very precarious propo- 
 sition, because the best Coffee poorly roasted, is 
 poor Coffee. If over roasted, the "snap" and fra- 
 grance is gone — if under done, it tastes grassy, 
 green and raw, and makes a) very poor cup. Ten 
 seconds either way might spoil the roast. 
 
 The roasting is done in large revolving drums 
 or cylinders, under which a brisk fire, is kept and 
 regulated according to the type of Coffee being 
 roasted. The Coffee must be constantly turned 
 to roast regularly, and should be roasted quite 
 rapidly in order to protect and retain the active 
 principles. When properly roasted, it should be 
 cooled as quickly as possible to prevent loss of 
 strength, and then should be immediately packed 
 in closely sealed containers, preferably air tight, 
 
 17 
 
as the oil cells have been broken open by the 
 heat action and the volatile oil containing the 
 aroma of the Coffee is quickly dissipated. 
 
 •Grenerally Coffee aged two or three years makes 
 the best roast from the point of drinking quali- 
 ties. 
 
 According to good authority (and the writer's 
 opinion) the Coffee is just now ready for blend- 
 ing, however, it is a later day custom to blend 
 the green Coffees and then roast. This custom 
 is followed very extensively, but there is no ques- 
 tion but the different sized beans and the differ- 
 ent aged berries, and the green and dry berries 
 require different treatment in the roaster. 
 
 In blending, we know that some Coffees have 
 Aroma, some have Flavor, and some Strength, 
 Body, Character. The unknown quantity in 
 blending is the "public palate." We have to 
 consider only what they will like. After we have 
 determined on the favored blend, we should ad- 
 here strictly to it — ^this is quite a task and re- 
 quires good taste and discernment, for it must 
 be borne in mind that the essential qualities of 
 the Coffee berry varies — this year's crop is not 
 exactly like last year's crop from the same tree — 
 nor is the berry in a given district identical with 
 tha same berry in another part of the same dis- 
 trict, so it may readily be seen that great care 
 must be taken to maintain the standard of any 
 special blend, and can only be accomplished by 
 painstakingly cupping and tasting the liquors 
 from various types until "matched." 
 
 The Coffee classifications best known to the 
 general public are "Mocha," "Java," '^Maracaibo," 
 "Colombian," "Santos," "Bourbon Santos," "Li- 
 berian," "Rio," "Guatemala" and "Pea-Berry" (or 
 Caracole). 
 
 The cheapest varieties of general consumption 
 are low grade (Rio's, and the dearest the high 
 grade Mochas and Javas or East Indian. 
 
 18 
 
So much for the cultivation and preparation of 
 Coffee. Let us now consider how it is judged 
 for marketing. 
 
 COFFEE SELECTION 
 
 Vast experience is essential to the training of a 
 Coffee Expert. 
 
 The chapters following on the different Coffee 
 growths give brief descriptions of the beans of 
 the principal varieties, but there are so many 
 different kinds, so much alike and yet so many 
 minor differences of size, appearance, color and 
 cup quality, that very few people can correctly 
 judge the quality of a bean by its appearance 
 raw, and only the keenest experts can determine 
 its classification after roasting. 
 
 Coffees are judged first by the form of the 
 bean. There being three general types in this 
 regard, but in as much as some Coffee plants 
 bear beans of all three types, this is 'but a sum- 
 mary test. 
 
 The best test for a layman is by a sample in- 
 fusion after roasting and grinding. 
 
 The next test is the size. The medium sized 
 bean of any" variety is generally^ regarded as pos- 
 sessing the finest flavor, but there is no fixed 
 standard as to size, as this varies with the locali- 
 ties, where the beans are cultivated, the kind of 
 season — ^whether wet or dry, and various other 
 reasons. 
 
 Color is the next test — in which we find a 
 variation all the way from a transparent yellow 
 to a bluish-green, dark-brown or black. 
 
 Each geographical division has a different 
 standard of color, and also every locality of dis- 
 
 19 
 
tribution has different requirements. Far exam- 
 ple:, in buying "Rio" we note that Chicago wants 
 mediun^ to light green. Cincinnati, yellow. Lou- 
 isville, yellow and dark-green. Texas, darkest- 
 green. And each market is willing to pay a pre- 
 mium to get the shade it wants. 
 
 The place of production is the next require- 
 ment. This is based mainly on what those names 
 mean to the public. Mocha being the first Coffee 
 used, was immortalized in song and story, so 
 naturally the largest demand is for IVIocha, con- 
 sequently if it looks like IVIocha, it's in demand. 
 
 The next requirement is the geographical loca- 
 tion of the place of production — ^whether highland 
 or lowland. The highlands produce much better 
 grades of Coffee, as it is firmer textured, not so 
 watery or grassy of flavor. 
 
 The next considerations are the smell, flavor, 
 uniformity, age and absence of foreign particles. 
 While on the subject of age, it may be of interest 
 to note that Coffee takes an added quality with 
 age, like wine, and it is said that artificial ageing 
 is done just prior to the roasting. It is deter- 
 mined by the color of the bean, iwhich must be 
 well washed to determine "premature age.'* 
 
 The final step in judging Coffee is the roasting, 
 when the Aroma, etc., is observed. The Coffee 
 is then ground and an infusion made for the pur- 
 pose of observing the flavor, body, etc. 
 
 As to the range in quality — it is too wide to be 
 discussed here. For example, Brazilian Coffee 
 is first divided into ten grades, ranging in quality 
 from the equal of the best IVIocha down to the 
 poorest Mexican, and in truth the most of the 
 Mocha (?), until recently, was '*iGrolden Rio." 
 Then the quality varies again every year, as to 
 the size and quality of the crop produced and the 
 general condition of the market. 
 
 20 
 
An analysis of Coffee follows: 
 
 Moisture 11.22 
 
 Oils and Fats 14.27 
 
 Albumen '6.96 
 
 Caffeine 1.18 
 
 Ash 3.51 
 
 Caffeo ] 
 
 Matter soluble in water ^ 24.87 
 
 Tannic acid, etc. J 
 
 Of these ingredients, Caffeo, the esential oil, 
 Caffeine alkaloid, the stimulant and Tannic Acid, 
 the astringent, concern us most. Let us con- 
 sider them separately. 
 
 Caffeine gives to Coffee its delicious aroma 
 when roasting. It produces a slight, gentle pers- 
 piration, an agreeable excitement, and stimulates 
 the mental faculties. It retards in a marked de- 
 gree the waste of tissue, and has a slight aperient 
 effect on the bowels. 
 
 Caffeine has no odor and a bitter taste. It in- 
 creases nervous activity, enlivens the imagination 
 and increases the heart and pulse. 
 
 Tannic Acid is an astringent. To it is ascribed 
 the flavor and chief properties of Coffee as a 
 beverage. 
 
 When we consider these together in combina- 
 tion, we have a combination that exhilirates, 
 arouses and keeps awake, counteracts the stupor 
 of fatigue, disease and opium. It allays hunger 
 to a certain extent and gives the weary increased 
 strength and vigor. 
 
 Physiologically, it makes the brain more active, 
 yet soothes the hody, and lessens the change of 
 the tissue, and consequently there is a lesser de- 
 mand for food. 
 
 Taken in moderate quantities, Coffee quickens 
 the gastric juices and relieves the feeling of 
 plentitude after a meal. 
 
 The Coffee we get is 73.% Brazilian. The rest 
 is mostly Central American, yet the majority of 
 
 21 
 
brands of roasted Coffee on the American market, 
 probably 60% of it, until recently, was Mocha 
 and Java Blend. Can you figure it? 
 
 'Some statistics: 
 
 A man picks 120 lbs. of Coffee berries a day. 
 120 lbs. of berries yield 15 lbs. of dried green 
 
 beans. 
 One tree yields 1 to 8 lbs. of Coffee a year. 
 Coffee loses 5 to 8% in ageing. 
 Coffee loses 16 to 22% in roasting. 
 
 Good 'Coffee depends upon: 
 Quality of the seed bean. 
 Locality where raised — high or low. 
 Annual amount of rainfall. 
 Method of picking. 
 Method of preparing, sun cured or not, dry or 
 
 wet ferment. 
 Age, before roasting. 
 Proper roasting. 
 
 Absence of "blights" or "Quakers." 
 •Proper blending. 
 Proper grinding. 
 The public palate. 
 
 Everyone used to roast his own Coffee. 
 
 iCoffee loses its aroma and flavor very soon af- 
 ter roasting, and should have every protection 
 possible. 
 
 The final process is the grinding, and this 
 should always be done, when possible, immediate- 
 ly before use, as Coffee loses much of its flavor 
 and aroma in a very short while after grinding. 
 This process is much more important than most 
 people realize, and the finished product may be 
 spoiled for a lover of good Coffee by improper 
 grinding. If it is ground too coarsely, you do not 
 get the flavor and strength in the infusion. If it 
 is ground too finely, you get the same effect as 
 in over-boiling, too much Tannic Acid extracted 
 and a biter acrid cup. 
 
 22 
 
Coffee should be differently ground for every 
 method of preparation: e. g., perculator Coffee 
 requires a fine grinding; boiled Coffee a coarse 
 grinding. 
 
 Simple tests for ground Coffee are: (1) Press 
 a little of the ground Coffee between the fingers 
 — if it cakes, it is adulterated, probably with 
 Chickory. (2) Place a little of the dry Coffee in 
 a glass of water. If nearly all floats and the 
 water does not color, or only a very little, the 
 Coffee is probably pure. If part sinks, it is adul- 
 terated, probably with cereal, chickory or simi- 
 lar substances. If the water turns a deep reddish 
 tint, chickory has been added to it. (3) Spread 
 a little dry Coffee on a piece of glass or some- 
 thing similar and moisten with a few drops of 
 water. Then pick out some of the smallest pieces 
 with a needle, if they are soft, the Coffee is cer- 
 tainly adulterated, as real Coffee bean particles 
 stay hard even after long immersion in water. 
 
 It must be remembered that the above tests 
 apply only to the purity of the bean. They tell 
 nothing of the flavor or aroma, which are deter- 
 mining points of value. 
 
 A Coffee may be perfectly pure, yet be harsh, 
 musty, hidey or in many ways undesirable, hence 
 the necessity of testing* flavor and aroma by mak- 
 ing infusion. 
 
 In (purchasing the raw beans, one should also 
 thoroughly bear in mind that: (1) If all of one 
 variety (i^ e., before blending) they should be 
 Ifairly uniform in size, apeparance anjd color. 
 (2) They should be free from stems, stones, dirt 
 and all such foreign matter. (3) Wlien cut, they 
 should be the same general color all the way 
 through. If the inside is considerably lighter 
 than the outside, it will usually be found that 
 the beans have been artificially colored. Of re- 
 cent years, however, this deception has been prac- 
 ticed very little, if any. 
 
 23 
 
THE PRINCIPAL COFFEE GROWING 
 COUNTRIES 
 
 Giving the Principal Trade Names, also Districts, 
 Plantations and Chief Characteristics of the 
 Various Coffees. 
 
 NORTH AMERICA 
 
 Mexico 
 
 Central America 
 
 Colima. 
 
 Guatemala: — ^Coban. 
 
 Corodoba. 
 
 Costa Rica. 
 
 Chiapas. 
 
 c , , ( Santa Anna, 
 Salvador: | iSanta Tecia. 
 
 Triunfo. 
 
 Tabas(30. 
 
 Honduras. 
 
 Tarn pi CO. 
 
 Nicaragua. 
 
 Tapachula. 
 
 Belize. 
 
 Olaxaca. (IP r o" n o u need 
 
 
 Wahaka or War-har- 
 
 
 kar.) 
 
 
 Sierra. 
 
 
 Coatzacoalcos. 
 
 
 Uruapan. 
 
 
 Coatepec. (Tepic) 
 
 
 SOUTH 
 
 AMERICA 
 
 Venezuela 
 
 Ecuador 
 
 Ang^ostura. 
 
 Guayaquil. 
 
 r Caracas :-— 
 
 
 1 Trillade. 
 La Guaira: ■{ Porto Ca- 
 bello. 
 
 Colombia-Sabanilla 
 
 Bog-ota. 
 
 L Coro. 
 
 Uanca. 
 
 r iCucuta. 
 1 Merida. 
 1 Tovar. 
 
 Jerico, 
 Bucaramang'a. ^ 
 
 Antioquia : — ^Mendellin. 
 
 Maracaibo : ■{ Salazar. 
 1 Trujillo. 
 
 Ocana. 
 Santa Marta. 
 
 Bocono. 
 . Tacharia. 
 
 
 
 Carupano. 
 
 
 Brazil 
 
 Rio. f Campinas. 
 
 ' Caravella. 
 Nazareth. 
 
 Santos: 1 Bourbon. 
 
 
 Bahia: -j Chapada. 
 
 Victoria. Capatania. 
 
 Minas-Garaes. 
 
 Ceara. Cuaruaru. 
 
 Maragog-ipe. 
 
 WEST INDIA ISLANDS 
 
 Guadeloupe. 
 
 Puerto Rico. 
 
 Martinique. 
 
 Hayti. 
 
 Cuba. 
 
 San Domingo. 
 
 Jamaica— Blue Mountain. 
 
 Guracao. 
 
 24 
 
PACIFIC ISLANDS 
 
 Hawaiian 
 
 Islands. 
 
 
 Phillipine 
 
 Islands.— Ma- 
 
 nilla. 
 
 
 
 ASIA 
 
 Arabia 
 
 Abyssinian 
 
 r Yemien 
 
 
 Harrar. (Dong bean). 
 
 Tehama 
 
 
 Magrache. 
 
 Mocha: { Serki 
 
 ■ISliorl 
 
 
 Sanani 
 
 Bean 
 
 
 ^Hodeida . 
 
 
 
 AFRICA 
 
 INDIA 
 
 Guinea. 
 
 Mysore. 
 
 Enconge. 
 
 
 Liberia. 
 
 
 Malabar 
 
 
 Abyssinia. 
 
 
 EAST INDIA ISLANDS 
 
 Timor. 
 
 Sumatra 
 
 Bali. 
 
 
 Mandheling. 
 
 Celebes — ^Macassar. 
 
 
 Ankola. 
 
 Tag-al. 
 
 
 Ayerbangies. 
 
 Kroe. 
 
 Padang: ^ 
 
 Painan. 
 
 Lfjhat. 
 
 
 Interior. 
 
 Corinche. 
 
 
 Indrapoers. 
 
 Beongie. 
 
 
 .Palembang. 
 
 Singapore. 
 
 
 Bockit Gom- 
 
 Ceylon. 
 
 
 pong. 
 
 Straits Liberian. 
 
 
 iSoemanik. 
 
 Bonthyne. 
 
 
 Gadoeng Batoe 
 'Soerian. 
 Loboe Raya. 
 Loboe tSiampir. 
 Si Barasap. 
 
 
 Private 
 
 Akar Gedand 
 
 
 Estate: 
 
 Merapi. 
 
 Taloeg Gedang. 
 Lioeboeg Ge- 
 dand. 
 [Like. 
 
 Soengu L^ndei. 
 iSbengu Ram^- 
 ^ boekan. 
 
 
 Java 
 
 Bantam. 
 
 Japara. 
 
 Batavia. 
 
 Soerkarta. 
 
 Buitenzorg. 
 
 Djokjarkarta. 
 
 Preanger. 
 
 Madroen. 
 
 Krawang. 
 
 Reimang. 
 
 Cheribon. 
 
 Sourabaya. 
 
 Togal. 
 
 Kedire. 
 
 Banjoemas. 
 
 Malang. 
 
 Pekalongan. 
 
 Pasoeroean. 
 
 Baquilan. 
 
 Probolingo. 
 
 Kadoe. 
 
 Bejreki. 
 
 Samarang. 
 
 Banjo ewangi. 
 
 Pamanoekin. (Libei 
 
 rian.) 
 
 
 
 25 
 
COFFEE CHART 
 Of the Popular and Commonly Used Types 
 
 BRAZIL, 
 SOUTH 
 AMERICA. 
 
 RFC 
 
 r Golden 
 -j and the 
 i numbers 
 
 Santos 
 
 Flat Bean 
 ■Cfurley Bean 
 Red Bean 
 Bourbon 
 
 COLOMBIA, 
 SOUTH 
 AMERICA. 
 
 CENTRAL 
 
 ] Bucaramanga, 
 i^iSabanillas 
 J Antioquia 
 
 f'Medellin 
 Bogota's -{ Manizales fExoelsO 
 t Pantassia ] and 
 
 L Extra 
 
 Guatemala 
 
 Costa Rica 
 
 Cob an 
 Costa Cuca 
 Costa Granda 
 Costa De Cusha 
 Tumbador 
 
 ' Caracole 
 V and the numbers 
 
 1 1st, 2nd, 3rd 
 
 AMERICA. 
 
 Salvador 
 
 f Yellow Bean 
 1 Green Bean 
 
 
 Nicaragua 
 
 f Natural 
 1 Washed 
 r Yellow 
 
 
 Honduras 
 
 ■{ Heavy 
 
 
 
 [ Bean 
 
 
 Jamaica 
 
 (Blue Mountain) 
 
 
 San Domingo 
 
 
 
 Porto Rican 
 
 
 DUTCH AND 
 
 Haitian 
 
 
 BRITISH ^ 
 
 Guantanamo 1 Best Cuban 
 
 WEST INDIES 
 
 Alquizar 
 
 y Districts 
 
 
 Marcos 
 
 and 
 . 'Plantations 
 
 
 Sierra Maes- 
 
 
 L tra 
 
 ' Cucuta 
 Meridia 
 
 
 
 
 Maracaibo 
 
 - Bocona 
 
 VENEZUELA, 
 
 
 Tovar 
 
 SOUTH 
 
 ^ 
 
 ( Trujillo 
 
 AMERICA. 
 
 
 r Oaraeas 
 
 
 La Guaira 
 
 - Porto 
 Cabello 
 
 
 
 
 L 
 
 I Coro 
 
 MEXICAN 
 
 r Coatepec (Tepic) 
 
 Cordoba 
 Caracolillo (Tea, Berry) 
 Cordoba (Mexican Jack) 
 
 26 
 
EAST INDIA, 
 JAVA ISLANDS. 
 
 EAST INDIA 
 SUMATRA 
 ISLANDS. 
 
 EAST INDIA, 
 JAVA ISLANDS. 
 
 ARABIA 
 
 CEYLON 
 
 INDIA 
 
 ECUADOR 
 HAWAIIAN 
 
 PHILLIPPINES 
 
 Javas 
 
 Mandheling 
 Ankola 
 
 r Plantation 
 I Government 
 ■{ Blue-Bean or 
 I Washed East 
 L Indian 
 
 j- Javas 
 
 { 
 
 I 
 
 Liberian fJava 
 Robusta ^ Coffee 
 
 iLaurentii 
 
 r Yemen 1 Grades 
 Mocha ■{ Tehama J^'Nos. 1, lA, 
 [iSanani J 2, 3 
 
 Harrar (Longl3erry) 
 Abyssianian 
 
 '^Native" 
 
 "Plantation" 
 
 Liberian- 
 
 Ceylon 
 
 Ceylon 
 
 Malabar 
 Mysore 
 
 Guayaquils 
 
 Konos 
 
 Luzon 
 
 Manila 
 
 Zamboango 
 
 (Liberian Hyfbrid) 
 (Arabia Seed) 
 
 All Coffee plants produce some Caracole (Pea 
 berry). 
 
 Some types are always "unwashed." However, 
 most types may be had "washed" or natural. 
 
 DIVISIONS 
 
 The first division of Coffee is into "strong" and 
 **mild." The Rio's and some of the Santos are 
 commonly said to constitute the "strong" varie- 
 ties. (However, the writer considers it correct to 
 include Liberians and some of the hybrids). The 
 other part of the Santos crop and practically all 
 the importations of the other kinds, come under 
 the heading of mi Ids. 
 
 The next classification by the Wholesale Mer- 
 chant is by the iCountry of Export, sub-divided in 
 each case into various growths and grades. 
 
 27 
 
BRAZIL, RIO, SANTOS, BOURBON SANTOS 
 
 The best known Brazil Coffeesi are the Rios 
 and Santos. 
 
 Rio Coffees are heavy in body and with a dis- 
 tinctive flavor and aroma, in fact in most in- 
 stances Rio Coffees are strong to rankness but 
 properly built around in blends, help to produce 
 a very fine strong drink. Individually they are 
 generally of a very pungent character. Again, 
 however, some of the Higher Types, such as, say, 
 '^Golden Rio" are of fine character and are splen- 
 did in the cup. The beans vary in size and color 
 from large to small, and dark green to light yel- 
 low. But in the main, Rio Coffeei is a low grade 
 Brazilian growth of a very pronounced, strong, 
 even rank flavor, and is rapidly losing favor in 
 the eyes of the best informed trade. 
 
 It is now only used in limited sections of the 
 United States to any extent. It has been re- 
 marked that one bag of Rio mixed with ten bags 
 of any other Coffee would produce eleven bags of 
 — Rio.. Formerly it was thought that Rio combin- 
 ed with Java produced a satisfactory blend. 
 
 SANTOS COFFEES 
 
 Santos Coffees are generally milder than "Rios" 
 and very smooth and pleasing in the cup, not so 
 full as many types, but very mellow and a splen- 
 did blender with most types, excepting, perhaps, 
 East Indian or Javas, e. g., such as Padangs, Ma- 
 cassars, Mandhelings, etc. Some authority has said 
 it is like mixing cream with water to try to blend 
 Santos with the latter named 'Coffees, — "it would 
 be better to buy milk to begin with"; at any rate 
 the writer has never been successful in 'blending 
 the two types. 
 
 The finer grades of Santos are of such excellent 
 quality that they have been widely substituted 
 for even high grade Javas and Mochas (practiced 
 
but little if any now), the "curley bean" being 
 used in the latter case. They range from large to 
 small, and, from green and rich yellow to very 
 pale yellow. 
 
 For purposes of exchange transactions, it is 
 customary to term any Coffee shipped through 
 the port of Santos, Santos Coffee* 
 
 The City of Santos is the shipping center of the 
 State of Sao Paulo, Brazil, and is the World's 
 greatest Coffee port. 
 
 ''Red Bean Santos" is obtained from the Campi- 
 nas district. It is considered more "flavory" and 
 richer than the yellow or greenish varieties. 
 
 "Bourbon Santos" is a small bean variety (some- 
 times called "curley bean") which has grown rap- 
 idly in popularity on account of its winey or vin- 
 ous character. It was formerly sold as "Mocha" 
 or "Mocha Seed" and is even now sometimes 
 spoken of as the "Mocha" of South America. It was 
 originally grown from Mocha seed (Coffee Arab- 
 ica). The bean for the first two or three crops 
 looks like a Mocha bean and makes a handsome 
 roast. In appearance it should be small, partially 
 round crinkley bean, and, if a genuine Bourbon 
 Santos, should more nearly resemble ''Mocha Cof- 
 fee" (With reference to style and cup character 
 than any other Coffee. 
 
 "Flat Bean Santos," After the third year of 
 bearing, the Bourbon or Mocha Seed Santos takes 
 on a flat bean characteristic which causes it to 
 be spoken of thereafter as Flat Bean Santos. 
 
 The State of Sao Paulo, Brazil, produces the 
 Santos Coffee, so called; because it is shipped 
 through the port of Santos. Santos Coffee har- 
 vest takes place in May and June, and the average 
 crop of beans obtained from each tree varies 
 from one to six pounds. (In some cases more 
 possibly). 
 
 The principal types cultivated in Sao Paulo are: 
 The Bourbon, Creoulo, Amarelio and Maragogipe. 
 
 29 
 
The Borbon is the most delicate and short lived 
 tree, but the greatest producer, usually producing 
 an abundant crop, but the beans are the smallest 
 of the four principal varieties. 
 
 The other three do not produce so abundantly, 
 but are long-lived and hardy. The Creoulo. or 
 common native variety, and the Amarello or yel- 
 low variety bear yellow instead of red berries, (or 
 Cherries) and the Maragogipe grows on the larg- 
 est tree, has the largest^ beans. (So large in fact, 
 as to he called freakish, frequently). The Coffees 
 produced by these varieties are classified on the 
 estates according to size, shape and pureness of 
 quality, into: Fine Moka, Fine Flat, Superior, 
 Good, Regular, Ordinary and Refuse. These are 
 classified in types ranging from one to nine in- 
 clusive' — ^One, Two and Three being the best. 
 Type one does not have a single black bean. Six 
 black beans iper pound are permissible in Type 
 Two. Type Three is allowed thirteen black beans 
 to the pound. The two first Types are not to be 
 found on the market. The scarcity of Type Three 
 makes Type Four the commercial base for these 
 iCoffees. This Type is allowed to contain up to 
 thirty black beans to the pound. To designate 
 the quality, black beans increase in number until 
 Type Nine is allowed 850 in a single pound and 
 lower, the classification proportionately. Type 
 Seven poor quality with 20'0 black heans per pound 
 is usually about 13 or 14 cents per Ten Pounds 
 Cheaper than Type Four. (iBlack beans are com- 
 monly called "Quakers.") 
 
 In addition to the foregoing, the State of Sao 
 Paulo grows some of all different types and quali- 
 ties of Coffee known in all parts of the world. 
 
 The winey or vinous character of the Bourbon 
 Santos is frequently alluded to as acid or acidy. 
 In the estimation of the writer such terms as acid, 
 acidy or non-acidy applied to Coffee not only 
 maligns a wholesome product, but is positively 
 
 30 
 
erroneous. In all the accumulated "data" cover- 
 ing a period of tliirty years, I have never read a 
 chemical analysis showing a Bourbon (or flat 
 bean) to contain either more or less acid than 
 any other Coffee. It is true that some Coffees 
 have a more distinct, **stand-outish" or winey 
 flavor than others, the same as some Coffees are 
 stronger than others — in either case the distinct- 
 iveness is brought about no doubt, first, from the 
 origin of the seed and then from soil, altitude or 
 climatic conditions or the combination of these 
 conditions. 
 
 Among the numerous other types of Brazilian 
 Coffee are "Victoria" or Capotuica, Bahia and Li- 
 berlan Rio. 
 
 The most generally accepted grades of "Rio'? 
 and ''Santos" are from 1 to 10, or as follows 
 
 Fancy: — ^Large and uniform in color and in 
 size: clear and perfect in selection and attractive 
 in general appearance, divided into "light," "med- 
 ium" and "dark." 
 
 Prime: — Very clear and regular in color and 
 size, hut not so rich in appearancee as "Fancy." 
 
 Good: — Uniform in color and size, but ranging 
 from "Clear" to "Strictly Clear." Divided into 
 "Light," "Medium" and "Dark." This is the aver- 
 age or standard grade, now quoted as 4s com- 
 mercially. 
 
 Fair: — Only moderate and liable to contain 
 many black (commonly called ''Quakers") broken 
 and otherwise imperfect beans: 
 
 Ordinary: — Irregular in color and size and lia- 
 ble to contain many black broken heans and a 
 proportion of hulls, etc. 
 
 Common: — The lowest grade, mixed with bad 
 and broken beans, chaff, hulls, etc. 
 
 SI 
 
COLOMBIA, BUCARAMANGA, BOGATA, 
 "SABANILLA" 
 
 Colombia:— A State located in the extreme 
 northern part of South America, also lightly touch- 
 ing the west coast. 
 
 Colombia is and has been for yeais one of our 
 most important producers of fine Coffees, and its 
 natural advantages promise still more abundant 
 production. 
 
 Being near the Equator, Colombian Coffees may 
 be raised at a much higher altitude than i& possi- 
 ple in most countries. 
 
 Quality in Coffee depends upon high altitudes 
 more than any other single condition, hence the 
 High Grade. . 
 
 BOGOTAS AND BUCARAMANGAS 
 
 The City of Bogota is approximately 900O feet 
 above the sea level. Bucaramanga is slightly low- 
 er. The districts surrounding produce among the 
 choicest grades of Coffee in the world. These 
 Coffees (particularly the Bucaramanga). when ex- 
 tra well aged, as was the case during the Vene- 
 zuelan war, take on such a rich hrown color and 
 show such mellowness in the cup as to be indis- 
 tinguishable When placed beside Mandhellngs and 
 An kolas of Sumatra, either in appearance or the 
 cup. 
 
 The Bogotas properly speaking are produced in 
 a district of small area; in fact the production of 
 the true Bogota is limited to perhaps 12,000 to 
 18,000 bags a year, however, the Coffees raised in 
 the districts of Manlzales, Antioquia, Honda and 
 Canca are generally bought and sold as Bogotas, 
 and with the exception of the last named, these 
 districts produce some excellent Coffees, particu' 
 larly the fane/ grades. 
 
 a2 
 
Good grade Bogotas possess splendid winey 
 body, and flavor, and when aged make wonderful 
 individual drinkers. 
 
 Bogotas of (particularly "iwiney" character are 
 good to use with (or in place of) Mocha and 
 Harrar for cost reduction and improving the ap- 
 pearance for Abyssinian Coffee usually carries 
 many "quakers" and Arabian is generally insig- 
 nificant to look upon. 
 
 The Bucaramanga and Bogotas, which are the 
 two best known varieties of Colombia, rank among 
 the finest of American Coffees. 
 
 Bucaramanga and the district by that name is 
 a good ten days or two weeks journey from Bogo- 
 ta with mules. 
 
 The finest Bucaramangas are the Naturals (un- 
 washed), particularly when the season and cli- 
 mate gives them a well browned growth. It is 
 then that these Coffees have such heavy body as 
 to be called the "backbone" of blends. Fine Javas 
 and Sumatras are but slightly superior; in fact, 
 Bucaramangas of this type, and particularly well 
 age(J, iwlU do practically the same work of Javas; 
 they are possibly not quite so winey or flavory, 
 but their extraordinary strength makes 10 to 20 
 per cent a strong factor in ''blends." 
 
 Good grade Colombian Coffees produce 25% 
 more strength in the cup than the same weight in 
 Santos, and gives a flavor and aroma unobtain- 
 able from Santos. 
 
 Bucaramangas are frequently referred to as 
 ''Bucs." 
 
 Savanillas are sometimes sold as "Bucs" but 
 never carry the heavy body for which the Bucara- 
 mangas are used. So called Savanillas are usual- 
 ly Maracaibos. Some Colombians, however, are 
 correctly known as "Savanillas" commercially. 
 A good Maracaibo is more desirable than the 
 cheaper "Bucs." 
 
 33 
 
The Bucaramanga bean is large and solid, and 
 the liquor full bodied, fragrant and aromatic; 
 when aged it develops a very rich dark brown 
 color. Tills is a good individual drinker, and as 
 a blender follows Mochas, Harrars and Javas very 
 closely, and is frequently used (when well aged) 
 very successfully in blends as a substitute for 
 Java. 
 
 Bogota is a mountain grown Coffee, the bean 
 large, uniform and bluish-green, and the liquor 
 full-bodied, round and fragrant. It is the basis 
 of a great number of high-grade blends. They 
 roast evenly and have a handsome color. When 
 green many of them are rather rough in appear- 
 ance, but with all a very high individual type. 
 
 Medellln and Manizales are, in the best grades, 
 also very highly considered. 
 
 Other lesser types are Canca, Ocana, etc. Ocana 
 is a town situated in a province of the same name 
 in Colombia, South America. Coffee from this 
 province was, and still is, to a limited extent, 
 classed as Maracaibo Coffee, but is decidedly in- 
 ferior in appearance, roast and drink, and is used 
 principally as a filler. 
 
 Manizales Coffees are so called from the town 
 of that name, located in Colombia, South Ameri- 
 ca, near Medellin, from which certain varieties of 
 Colombian or Bogota Coffees are shipped. 
 
 Fantassia Coffee is "Excelso" and "Extra" com- 
 bined, or before they are separated or graded. 
 
 Exoelso is a fancy Coffee from any Colombian 
 Coffee district, and is composed of the large hand- 
 some beans. 
 
 Extra is the smaller beans. In other words, 
 Fantassia separated produces the two last named 
 -types. 
 
 Medellin, Capital City of Antioquia, Colombia, 
 South America, and a name given to the finest 
 growths of Colombian Coffees. This iCoffee comes 
 
 34 
 
from the mountainous regions, and is given the 
 preference over all other Colombian Coffees, with 
 the possible exception of the Old Bucaramangas. 
 Antioquia. OMame applied to a high grade Cof- 
 fee grown in Colombia, South America. What is 
 known in the United States as "Medellin" is in 
 reality Antioquia Coffee, and is very typey. 
 
 VENEZUELA: MARACAIBO, LA GUAIRA 
 
 The two best types of Venezuela Coffee are 
 Maracaibo and La Guaira. 
 
 Maracaibos are divided into several varieties, 
 among them Cucuta, Merida, Bocono, Tovar and 
 Trujillo (the lowest) graded as washed (the best) 
 prime to choice, fair to good, ordinary, etc. 
 
 Both the Cucuta and the Merida in good season, 
 often equal the finest Coffees grown anywhere. 
 The beans are, large, round and solid, rich yellow 
 in appearance and make a fine rich liquor of full 
 ripe flavor. 
 
 The Maracaibo district is in Venezuela, South 
 America, and is situated on a Bay of Lake Mara- 
 caibo. It is from this district that the bulk of 
 Venezuelean Coffees are shipped. 
 
 The Maracaibo type comes from the mountain 
 slopes of Merida, Trujilloj and Tachira. 
 
 Merida. Coffee named from a town in Vene- 
 zuela, located near Lake Maracaibo. This is the 
 finest growth of Venezuelean (Maracaibo) Coffee. 
 This Coffee makes a good roast and has a pecu- 
 liarly delicate flavor; neither winey or bitter, and 
 is much prized by experts. 
 
 Bocono, Tovar and Trujillo Coffees are general- 
 ly smaller and less attractive in appearance, and 
 their liquor is light, but they are useful for blend- 
 ing, as their flavor is usually pleasant. These 
 Coffees blend well with Bourbon Santos. 
 
 La Guaira Coffees are best known by the Cara- 
 cas, Porto Cabello and Coro types. Choice "wash- 
 
 35 
 
ed" Caracas is exceptionally^ fine Coffee; rich, 
 heavy and fragrant; the bean is large and bluish. 
 Caracas is the Capital of Venezuela. 
 
 '*Mild" Caracas makes only a fair liquor. The 
 bean is yellowish and medium size. 
 
 Porto Cabello and Coro Coffees also largely con- 
 sumed, vary in the bean from medium to small, 
 and from dark to pale green. They are classed as 
 Mild Coffee, but their liquor develops good 
 strength as well as flavor. 
 
 It has been said by some that much of the two 
 types just mentioned hardly compares favorably 
 with Santos Coffee. In the writer's opinion it at 
 least takes a splendid Santos to compare favora- 
 bly with them. 
 
 Among other varieties largely exported are 
 Carupano and Angostura. 
 
 All of the Maracaibo types are good blenders; 
 the higher types for body and rich full flavor, the 
 lesser types add tone and flavor to many other 
 Coffees. 
 
 CENTRAL AMERICA 
 Guatemala, Costa Rica, Salvador 
 
 The finest Central American Coffee is generally 
 that from Guatemala, a Republic on the Pacific 
 Coast, where cultivation is conducted on most 
 modern lines. The best type of Guatemala Coffee 
 is the Coban, a large shapely blue bean, producing 
 a fine aromatic liquor; a type that drinks well 
 alone, and makes a fine blender for either lighter 
 or heavier types. 
 
 Coban Coffees grow in a mountainous region, 
 near the town of Coban, and is usually transported 
 on mule back over the mountain passes, and the 
 bags are frequently not more than half the ordi- 
 nary size. 
 
 S6 
 
While many Guatemala Coffees have more style 
 than body, there are, however, many of them of 
 good strength and rich flavor, and the Coffees from 
 the Coban district rank with the best Coffees in 
 the world. 
 
 The cultivation of Coffee in Guatemala began 
 shortly after the middle of the last century. To- 
 day Coffee is the most important product of Guate- 
 mala. 
 
 Prior to the European War two-thirds of the 
 production went to Germany, where it commanded 
 high prices. Of late, however, exports to the 
 United States have increased considerably, and 
 Guatemala Coffee is rapidly growing in favor in 
 this country. 
 
 THE COFFEE PRODUCING DISTRICTS 
 
 As is the case with most producing countries, 
 some districts in Guatemala produce more desir- 
 able Coffee than others. Each lot must be tested 
 on its own merits. The Coban district produces a 
 Coffee of exceptional merit, grown at an altitude 
 of from 3,500' to 5,000 feet. Coban Coffees rank 
 among the finest Coffees in the world. The Coban 
 crop is comparatively small, however. Coffees 
 from the Antigua district also are of particularly 
 high grade. Numerous other sections produce Cof- 
 fees considerably above the average. Costa Cuca 
 is the most productive district. 
 
 The Coffee growing districts of Guatemala, 
 named in the order of their production, are as 
 follows: Costa Cuca, Costa Grande, Barberena, 
 Tumbador, Cohan, Costa de Cusho, Chicacao, 
 Holhnitz, Pochuta Malacatan, San Marcos, Chuva, 
 Escuintla San Vicente, Pacaya, Antigua, Moran, 
 Amatitlan, Palmar and Motagua. 
 
 37 
 
HOW TO USE GUATEMALA COFFEE 
 
 Guatemala Coffees are particularly useful for 
 blending purposes, giving satisfactory character 
 to high combinations. Those grown in the higher 
 altitudes are heavy bodied, winey drinking Coffees, 
 and blend well with Javas, Bourbon Santos, and 
 Maracaibos. The Guatemalas grown in the lower 
 altitudes do not possess the same heavy bodied 
 winey drinking qualities, but are smoother, and 
 when mixed with Bogotas or fine Costa Ricas, not 
 alone materially enhance the drinking quality but 
 lend a pleasing appearance to the blend. The low- 
 er grown Coffees should be roasted a light cinna- 
 mon color for best results, while the high grown, 
 hard bean Coffees should be roasted along the 
 same lines as Bogota, Coatepec Mexicans, or 
 other choice Coffees of that character. 
 
 While there are many differences of opinion as 
 to what constitutes the most desirable Coffee from 
 the viewpoint of the consumer, straight Guate- 
 mala Coffee grown in the medium altitudes, or, 
 say, from 3,000 to 4,000 feet above sea level, makes 
 a most satisfactory out-turn. A Roaster in the 
 West, who had a small retail stand in a market, 
 and who sold for his best quality only straight 
 Guatemala Coffee, met (with such gratifying re- 
 sults that he gradually enlarged to a wholesale 
 distribution, with the result that today he is using 
 more than 5,000 bags yearly, advertising and selling 
 only Guatemala Coffee. 
 
 CHARACTERISTICS OF GUATEMALA 
 COFFEES 
 
 Guatemala leads, in Central America, in produc- 
 tion with a crop averaging 750,000- bags, of which, 
 normally, about one-third} comes to the United 
 States. They are very stylish Coffees, and have 
 waxy, bluish bean, which, in roasting, split open 
 with white centers. This enables them to com- 
 
 38 
 
mand a high price, especially in European mar- 
 kets, but they are thin in body and are used 
 chiefly for their style. A small proportion of really 
 meritorious Coffees are (produced in the mountain- 
 ous districts of Coban and Antigua, at an altitude 
 of from 3,50(> to 5,00'0 feet. The Cobans are grown 
 so near the frost line that they often contain 
 many frosted and blighted beans, to the detriment 
 of their style, but they have a fine, winey charac- 
 ter, and possess body so heavy that it borders on 
 bitterness. They are especially fine for blending. 
 Less than 2,500 bags are imported annually. It has 
 been said that a hundred times more Cobans are 
 sold than are produced. The Antiguas are small- 
 ish, flinty bean Coffees, from a district about a 
 thousand feet lower. They are not so heavy in 
 body as the Cobans, but are flavory and winey, and 
 find favor upon the Pacific Coast, where some 
 15,000 to 20,000 bags are received. 
 
 Costa Rica: Perhaps equally as important is the 
 output of Costa Rica, the most Southern of the 
 five Central American Republics, producing one of 
 the finest Coffees in the world. (However, the 
 United States gets so little, if any, of the high type 
 Costa Rica Coffees, and so many of the poorer 
 types, that Costa Rica Coffee is not overly popular 
 here.) The high type Costa Rica is of heavy body 
 and sharply winey, and are best adapted for ^blend- 
 ing. Europe has nearly always paid a premium 
 on these, especially the larger bean Coffees. 
 
 The raiw bean averages large and handsome, and 
 roasts to excellent advantage; however, the bulk 
 of the best grades go to Europe generally, and 
 many shipments of the lower qualities sent to the 
 United States give a liquor somewhat bitter or 
 brackish, and not very desirable. 
 
 About the .year 1720 the first Coffee plants were 
 grown by the French Colonizers in the Island of 
 Martinique. From there they distributed seeds to 
 Jamaica and the other Islands of the West Indies 
 
 39 
 
about 1725, and, to Rio de Janeiro, also the other 
 Spanish colonies of Central and South America, in 
 1770. 
 
 The same tree produces beans of different shapes 
 and sizes, constituting four grades, namely: Cara- 
 cole (shell shape), first, second, and third. 
 
 The proportion is approximately 5% Caracole, 
 25% first, 45% second, and 25% third. 
 
 The Caracole is so called (in this section) be- 
 cause the bean is somewhat the shape of the small 
 shell (Spanish Caracol snail). 
 
 The European War, which closed the German 
 markets, has forced Costa Rica to look for new 
 Coffee customers, and its product is again becom- 
 ing more of a factor in the North American mar- 
 ket, where an intelligent propaganda, combined 
 with the merits of the article, is creating a greater 
 consumer demand for it. 
 
 The price paid for the better grades of Costa 
 Rica Coffees have always ranked among the high- 
 est paid for any Central American Coffees. 
 
 The higher tableland (mesa central) of Costa 
 Rica is admirably suited in the way of soil and 
 climatic conditions for the production of a high- 
 grade Coffee, which is highly prized in the markets 
 of Europe, especially in Great Britain. 
 
 COSTA RICAS UNSURPASSED FOR 
 BLENDING 
 
 Costa Rica's production of 200»,0'00' bags is small- 
 er than it was a half century ago. The fine grades 
 are grown in the districts of Cartago, San Jose, 
 Alajuela and Grecia, at altitudes of from 4,000' to 
 6,000 feet. These are characterized by their rich 
 body and fine flavor, and are often so sharply 
 winey, that if used straight would sour the cream. 
 For blending, the Highland Coffees of Costa Rica 
 are surpassed by none of the world's growth, but, 
 unfortunately, Europe overbids us from 2 to 3 
 
 40 
 
cents per pound, so that the 30,000 bags received 
 in the United States are mainly the small bean 
 separations and low grades. 
 
 The Salvador bean is generally of medium size, 
 and, in best} grades, is well developed, heavy and 
 greyish yellow; the liquor is just fairly strong, 
 with only a moderate flavor. 
 
 The poorer grades are very uneven and broken, 
 and! the liquor weak. The better grades do quite 
 well as a blender with the heavier Coffees, say, 
 with a Mexican, Guatemalan, or like types. 
 
 The land in Salvador is well adapted to the 
 growth of Coffee. The mountain sides and high 
 hills give the exact temperature needed, and of 
 late years, since the intelligent use of fertilizers 
 has been found to give results, well repaying the 
 cost. Old plantations that were producing little 
 before, have since made remarkable strides to the 
 fore. 
 
 SALVADOR COFFEE MARKET CHIEFLY IN 
 EUROPE 
 
 The Salvador crop of SOOjOO-O bags is mainly 
 marketed in ©urope. San Francisco receives some 
 SS.OO^O bags, which are consumed on the Pacific 
 Coast. The proportion of mountain Coffees is 
 small, and those that are washed rule about % 
 cent below Ouatemalas of equal grade, which 
 growth they resemble. The crop is principally the 
 naturals, which are large bean and of fair average 
 roast. There are about 220,000 acres of Coffee 
 trees in Salvador. 
 
 Nicaragua closely resembles the medium grades 
 of Salvador, possibly a little stronger, at least 
 more pungent. Not a good individual drinker but 
 useful in building around rank types, e. g. not bad 
 with Rios or even Liberians, and prove quite a 
 modifier. 
 
 Honduras produces a yellow, heavy bean of at- 
 
 41 
 
tractive appearance. The liquor is smooth and 
 pleasing, but rather weak and frequently marked 
 with a cocoa odor. 
 
 Panama has not yet established any high rec- 
 ords, but the quality of the product has been con- 
 siderably improved in recent years. 
 
 MEXICO 
 
 Mexican Coffee is roughly divided into "washed" 
 and ''unwashed", the former heing the choicer. 
 All green Coffees are either ** washed" or "natural" 
 (unwashed) so you may know that a "washed" 
 Mexican or a ''natural" Nicaragua means just that. 
 
 Usually "unwashed" Coffees show a dark sper- 
 modern or "silver skin" in the longitudinal cleft 
 or center of the flat aide of the bean when roasted. 
 A ''washed" Coffee generally shows a clean, light, 
 bright to whitish center. 
 
 The bulk of the export formerly went to France, 
 but the United States receipts have grown largely 
 in recent years. 
 
 Mexican Coffees have won an important place 
 with the American trade, both on account of the 
 liberal supply and because the highland Coffees 
 rank with the best produced in the world. They 
 have full, rich body and a fine winey "bouquet" or 
 aroma surpassed by none. The United States con- 
 sumes more than a third of the annual crop, which 
 reaches nearly 400,000 bags. This production is 
 mainly from a small area of some 200 miles, which 
 is situated nearly the same distance inland from 
 Vera Cruz. About 10% of the importation are the 
 West Francisco. 
 
 COATEPEC COFFEES AMONiG THE WORLD'S 
 
 BEST 
 
 The finest Mexicans are produced in the district 
 of Coatepec (Co-at-e^pec), at an altitude of from 
 3,000 to 4,000 feet. The combination of climatic 
 condition, altitude and the rich volcanic soil gives 
 
 42 
 
a quality which places these in the front rank 
 with the world's best Coffees. When aged for a 
 year in the Mexican climate, their wi ney character 
 is tempered, and they so mellow that they indeed 
 become perfectjon. Unfortunately, the high rate 
 of interest prohibit their being held for this pur- 
 pose, and, ordinarily, they are rushed to the mar- 
 ket as soon as they can be harvested and prepared 
 for shipment. Many other Mexican Coffees are 
 marketed under the name Coatepec. 
 
 CORDOBA COFFEES ARE BEAUTIFUL 
 ROASTERS 
 
 Some fine Coffees are raised from 500 to l,OOiO 
 feet lower in the adjoining districts of Jalapa 
 (Ha-lap-pa). The district of chief production is 
 Cordova, which is on the southern side of the vol- 
 cano. These are Tery stylish Coffees, especially 
 beautiful roasters, but they are thini in body, and 
 do not compare with those first described. The 
 districts of Orizaba and Huatusco (Wha-too-co) 
 adjoin. The Coffees from the former resemble 
 medium grade Cordobas. Some of the higher 
 growths in the latter district are of fair cup 
 quality. 
 
 The two "fanciest" commercial types of Mexican 
 beans are the Coatepec ("Tepic") and Caracolillo, 
 the latter being generally known as "Mexican Pea- 
 berry." 
 
 Coatepec or "Tepic", formerly known as "Mexi- 
 can Mocha", is said to be grown from a later in^ 
 troduction of the Arabian shrub, so carefully culti- 
 vated that some judges consider the product fully 
 equal (?) in quality to that of the parent plant. 
 The bean is small, hard and of a steel-blue color, 
 making a creamy, aromatic liquor. Very little of 
 this variety is exported, local consumers taking 
 nearly all the crop. These Coffees are really most 
 wonderful when you get the best washed type. 
 The writer in many instances has found them al- 
 most identical (with good Bogotas. 
 
 43 
 
NATURAL MEXICANS LIMITED TO LOW 
 GRADES 
 
 Sierras and Tampicos are low growth, and, 
 being "woody", are used for low-grade purposes. 
 High-growth 'Coffees improve with age, while in 
 many cases low-growths become woody and punky. 
 The shipment of natural Mexicans has fallen off 
 until they are limited to the cheaper grades. 
 Many low-growths are "hidey", due to the ex- 
 cessive fermentation explained in the preceding 
 talk. Occasionally sour beans are found in even 
 fancy Mexicans, so that care must be used in 
 selection. The fine Mexicans are valuable for 
 adding "meat" and richness to fancy blends, as 
 well as flavor and their winey character. 
 
 Caracolillo is a variety almost unique. As al- 
 ready noted, "Pea-berries" are found to some ex- 
 tent in all Coffee bean crop, but the shrubs from 
 which the Caracolillo product is obtained bear it 
 almost exclusively. 
 
 After these two types, rwhich do not effect the 
 general market, come Oaxaca, Cordoba, Coatepec, 
 Co lima, etc. 
 
 The Oaxaca (War-har-kar) bean is large and 
 well developed, blue in color when new, but be- 
 coming whiter^ as it ages, the liquor is strong, rich 
 and fragrant, and notwithstanding the high trib- 
 ute paid the Tepic type, the Oaxaca Coffees are 
 the leading Mexican growth and the sharpest, 
 winey flavor of all other Mexican Coffees, and has 
 good body; they come "washed" and "unwashed," 
 the former being termed "Pluma," and thei latter 
 being known simply as Oaxaca. 
 
 Cordoba is sometimes styled "Mexican Jack". 
 The bean is large and yellow, and the liquor is 
 rich and full, resembling a fine Maracaibo or a 
 medium "Java." 
 
 The Coatepec bean is large, well developed and 
 more winey than most types. 
 
 44 
 
Colima is a medium sized bean, flat,, fairly well 
 developed, and with liquor pleasing in flavor and 
 moderately rich. 
 
 Small quantities come also from Tuxpam, and 
 several lowland districts, but the quality is usually 
 inferior. 
 
 Taken as a whole, Mexican Coffees are very fine 
 Coffees, particularly useful in blending. 
 
 JAVA AND OTHER DUTCH EAST INDIAN 
 ISLANDS 
 
 The Dutch East Indies, especially the Islands of 
 Java, Sumatra and Celebes, are famous as the 
 largest exporters of fine Coffees. They are best 
 known to the lay public by the name of the Island 
 of Java, the most populous of the group and the 
 central point of Dutch commercial activity, but 
 the greater part of the East Indian Coffee con- 
 sumed in the United States is of Sumatra growth. 
 That from Celebes is generally rated the highest 
 in European markets. 
 
 Other countries produce in certain sections, 
 beans as choice as the very best "Java", but the 
 quantities they can export are comparatively un- 
 important. 
 
 The greater output of the Dutch East Indies is 
 partly due to the natural adaptability of soil and 
 climate, and partly to the systematic cultivation by 
 native inhabitants under the rule of Holland. In 
 spite of governmental care, there is, however, 
 much variation in the 'beans grown; a consider- 
 able quantity of those exported do not deserve the 
 reputation the "Javas" have earned. 
 
 Only Coffees grown on the Island of Java can be 
 labeled Java in the United States. 
 
 Java Coffee was originally of the Coffee Arabica 
 variety, but now the Liberian and Robusta varie- 
 ties are also grown on the Island. The Java bean 
 takes on a rusty brown color as it ages; it also 
 becomes more mellow and flavory. However, this 
 
 45 
 
last may be said of practically all Coffees. A 
 bluish-green is the original fresh color of Javas. 
 The bear; is large, full, well formed, and are 
 classed among the very fbest individual drinkers, 
 and very superior blenders. 
 
 East Indian Coffees are in this country princi- 
 pally graded by color — '*Brown", "Yellow^' and 
 "Pale"; the darker beans bringing the higher 
 price. 
 
 This discrimination was originally founded on 
 the fact that some of the choicest varieties of 
 "Java" beans become at the same time browner 
 in color and more mellow and pleasing in flavor, 
 in storage and transport, being in the former re- 
 spect entirely unique. 
 
 The distinction is not fundamentally accurate, 
 as some of the light bean varieties are better than 
 many of the dark types. In Europe the yellow 
 colored beans are preferred. When fresh, all East 
 Indian Coffees are light sea-green, or blue-green. 
 
 Dutch East Indian Coffees, other than those 
 grown on the Island of Java itself, are now gener- 
 ally described in trade and government circles as 
 Dutch East Indian, or by trade titles, or by dis- 
 tricts, as, Ankola, Padang, Mandheling, Corinche, 
 Timor, Kroe, etc. The title "Government" is 
 sometimes applied as a distinguishing title to Cof- 
 fee produced on plantations operated under gov- 
 ernment supervision, as are all old and many of 
 the new plantations. 
 
 The title "Old Government Java" was at one 
 time a name to conjure with, for, as first employed, 
 it applied to beans that had been held, sometimes 
 for considerable periods, in the government store- 
 houses. Until a few years ago, nearly all the 
 produce of the Dutch East Indies was sold by 
 quarterly Government auction, and any goods for 
 which the upset price was not bid, were held in 
 the warehouses" to await an improvement in mar- 
 ket demands, the result being in many cases an 
 Improvement also in the Coffees, Spices, etc., by 
 
 46 
 
the opportunity thus^ given them to mature under 
 the best possible condition, The term long ago, 
 though, deteriorated into a practically meaning- 
 less trade title from being applied indiscrimi- 
 nately to any brown East Indian 'Coffee, irrespect- 
 tive of growth or quality, and it is now "out of 
 date", as the government auctions were discon- 
 tinued in June, 1909, present sales being by con- 
 tracts with firms or individuals. 
 
 '^Plantation" or "private growth" Coffees are 
 those raised on plantations owned and operated 
 by individuals in contra-distinction to those under 
 government supervision. Some are of very high 
 quality. 
 
 "Blue-beam Java" is a title occasionally applied 
 to W. I. P. or "washed" East Indian. 
 
 ''Liberian Java" (often called "African Java") 
 is that grown from shrubs of Liberian species. 
 Its quality is usually inferior to the Arabian bean 
 varieties; it seems unnecessary to say this, how- 
 ever, if one stops to compare the two original 
 types, Arabian and Liberian. The former the 
 classiest Coffee, known for excellent flavor; the 
 latter of the most pronounced characteristic, of 
 such unusual strength and distinctiveness as to 
 closely approach rankness. 
 
 Padang Coffees get their name from the princi- 
 pal shipping port of the Island of Sumatra, on 
 Sumatra's West Coast, which was at one time- the 
 center of the Dutch Government's Coffee trade. 
 Many Coffees produced on the Island come from 
 this port, and are often called Padang. Among 
 them, called by their district names, are: Boekit 
 Gompong, Painam, Interior, Ayer-Bangies, Ankola, 
 Mandheling, Soerian, Loeboe, Rayamerapi and 
 Samarang. 
 
 Mend he ling Coffee gets its name from the 
 Mandheling district of Sumatra's! West Coast. 
 This Coffee commands the highest price of any 
 in the world (Mocha possibly excepted), and many 
 authorities consider it the very finest grown. It 
 
 47 
 
is bought and sold even in the United States as 
 "Mandheling Java". This is a misnomer, for it 
 is strictly a Sumatra and not a Java, according 
 to our standards, that is, Java Coffee must come 
 from the Island of Java. 
 
 Corinche: One of the fine grades of Dutch 
 East Indian Coffees, securing its name from the 
 town of Corinche, is Southwest Sumatra, South- 
 east of Padang. 
 
 Timor: A comparatively small amount of this 
 Coffee is grown on the Timor Island of the Timor 
 Archipelago East of the Sumba Islands and North 
 of Australia. This is a good quality Coffee. 
 
 SUMATRAS SUPERIOR TO JAVAS 
 
 As a matter of fact, the true Java does not com- 
 pare even favorably with Sumatras in quality, 
 with the exception of the choicest. Javas are 
 grassy, greenish, brashy and thin liquored. Their 
 principal value consists in the fact that they are 
 Javas. Javas give the largest production, but 
 these are not the really fine Coffees. The famous 
 Mandheling and Ankola districts are located in 
 Sumatra, also the districts of Corinche, Padang 
 and Kroe. The Ayer-Bangies, Palembangs and 
 Boengies are hardly note-worthy, as the supply 
 has become limited. 
 
 The prime value of East Indies Coffees is in 
 their smooth, heavy body: the fancies possessing 
 an almost syrupy richness. Their characteristics 
 are found to quite an extent in choice old Bucara- 
 mangas, and occasionally in certain fancy old 
 Maracaibos. These are frequently used as substi- 
 tutes, or in conjunction with East Indian Coffees, 
 both because they reach the mark and reduce the 
 cost. 
 
 Sumatra Coffee is produced on the island of 
 that name in the Dutch East Indies. It comprises 
 the principal part of the production in the Islands, 
 and, in fact, is the finest of these growths. 
 
 48 
 
Ankola Coffee is produced in the Ankola dis- 
 trict in the Island of Sumatra, and is considered 
 one of the finest Coffees grown. It has a very 
 heavy body and delicate, rich flavor. Ankolas are 
 classed close to Mandhellngs, and, although not 
 so heavy in body, their characteristics are simi- 
 lar. They are sometimes given the preference 
 because of their large, regular bean and fine roast- 
 ing qualities. Corinches, which are now receiv- 
 ed in limited quantity, are often used in place of 
 Ankolas, which Coffees they closely resemble. 
 They range from 1 to 2 cents under Ankolas in 
 price. Padang is Sumatra's chief seaport, and 
 this name is sometimes applied to Mandhelings, 
 Ankolas, Corinches and interiors. 
 
 Kroe: A medium grade East India Coffee 
 grown in the district of the same name, and is 
 shipped from Port Kroe on the Southwest Coast 
 of the Island of Sumatra. 
 
 KROES ARE GOOD ROASTERS AND 
 BLENDERS 
 
 The Coffees from the Island of Timor are class- 
 ed below Padangs, heing inferior in bean and 
 style. Kroes are better known and more widely 
 used because of their liberal supply, which also 
 influences their price. They are good roasters 
 and blenders, usually quite uniform in bean. 
 
 Samarang Coffee is generally a yellowish-green 
 color in the bean, and light and thin in cup quali- 
 ty. Grown on the North Coast of the Island of 
 Java and is named after a Seaport town. 
 
 ROBUSTA COFFEE 
 
 Coffee Laurentii or Robusta Coffee is a species 
 discovered growing wild in the Congo by 'Emil 
 Laurent. A Brussels horticultural firm took it up, 
 commercially designated it Robusta. It is now 
 being extensively cultivated in Java and is some- 
 
 49 
 
times called Robusta Java. This Coffee is in the 
 experimental stage, and has very little merit in 
 the cup, excepting a type well aged and brought 
 to a dark chocolate roast; even then the liquor 
 is light, with little or no flavor, but it is particu- 
 larly clean and freef from imperfections, therefore 
 grading high; it is practically neutral and is used 
 considerably as a filler. Much attention has been 
 Siven this Coffee because its tree is a more hardy 
 variety than most other Coffee trees. 
 
 The Coffee Exchange of the City of New York 
 prohibited the delivery of this growth of Coffee 
 on Exchange contracts after March 1, 1913. 
 
 Batavia is the Capital of the Dutch East Indian 
 Colony of Java, and is the principal market for 
 Coffee grown in that Island. The port of Batavia 
 is Tandjorvg, Priok. 
 
 ARABIA— MOCHA 
 
 Mocha, a former important Coffee port on the 
 Red Sea, Arabia. All the Coffee produced in 
 Arabia is known by the name "Mocha," though 
 no Coffee was ever grown in Mocha, which is only 
 a shipping town surrounded by deserts, and not 
 today even an important shipping point, as the 
 opening of the iSuez Canal transferred nearly all 
 the traffic to the ports of Aden and Hodeida. 
 The Port of Mocha was closed by a sand bar near- 
 ly a hundred years ago, and Coffee has since been 
 ^shipped by the way of Aden. 
 
 The plantations are located in the interior of 
 the Yemen district, with Sana as the center of 
 cultivation. Right at this point is where the fin- 
 est Arabian Coffee is grown, but it is never ex- 
 ported. The methods of cultivation, harvesting 
 and curing are most primitive. The 'berries are 
 not picked as in other countries, hut are permit- 
 ted to ripen on the trees, after which they fall 
 naturally and are allowed to dry in the cherry. 
 
 50 
 
THE FOUR GRADES OF MOCHA 
 
 There are four grades of Mocha, viz: Grade 
 No. 1, which contains only perfect berries and is 
 absolutely free from dust. Grade No. 1-A, con- 
 taining perfect berries but in which a little dust 
 may be found. Grade No. 2, containing some 
 broken Coffee! and "quakers," and Grade No. 3, in 
 which may be found a much lieavier percentage 
 of both "broken" and "quakers," as well as some 
 dust* 
 
 The Coffee is packed in fiher hundles or "bales," 
 weighing about 160 pounds each. Two or four 
 pockets to every bale. 
 
 Mocha beans are exceedingly small, hard and 
 round, irregular in form and size, olive green in 
 color, shading off to pale yellow. 
 
 PECULIAR CHARACTERISTICS OF MOCHA 
 COFFEE 
 
 Mocha Coffee has a peculiar winey character, 
 found in no other Coffee, and a heavy body. The 
 roast is poor and irregular, showing up. a large 
 quantity of "quakers," particularly in the lowest 
 grades. The "quakers" apparently do not mate- 
 rially affect the cup character. It is a particularly 
 good Coffee to use in blending on account of its 
 winey character. The best known blends are 
 those made in combination with various growths 
 of the Dutch East Indies, but the Coffee is accept- 
 able when used with any of the fancy washed 
 types. As a straight beverage it i« found pleasing, 
 and when made as a heavy after-dinner Coffee is 
 especially good. 
 
 The best Arabian — and the true "Mocha," is 
 that from the province of Yemen. The most sur- 
 prising point in connection with its cultivation is 
 that though the Coffee shrub requires in other 
 countries rich soil and favora:ble conditions to 
 produce an acceptable crop, here in Arabia, some 
 
 51 
 
of the choicest Coffee in the world comes from 
 stunted shrubs growing in hot, sandy, stony moun- 
 tainside gardens. All conditions, climate and soil 
 seem to be against the shrubs best growth, but by 
 the way of recompense it receives the most care- 
 ful and painstaking human attention The gar- 
 dens are arranged on rocky terraces, one above 
 the other, and are Irrigated from large reservoirs 
 of spring water placed above the highest. 
 
 There are two main crops during the year. Tht* 
 berries, instead of being picked, are allowed to 
 ripen until they fall. They are then carefully 
 gathered up, dried, hulled and cleaned with scrup- 
 ulous exactness. The separation of the finest 
 "Mocha" beans hy growers and merchants is in 
 itself a study of infinite detail; they are assorted 
 into a perfect graduation of sizes and qualities. 
 
 The true Yemen "Mocha" bean is very small, 
 hard and round, regular in, size in the best quali- 
 ties: Olive-green when new and a rich semi- 
 transparent yellowish when aged. Its odor when 
 fresh roasted is characteristic, and the liquor is 
 creamy, rich, rather heavy, a little wl ney and ex- 
 tremely aromatic and fragrant. 
 
 "Tehama"' Arabian Coffee — that from the prov- 
 ince of Tehama, is distinctly Inferior to Yemen. 
 The bean is about the same size, but it is imma- 
 ture in appearance and often mixed with frag- 
 ments of hull, etc., its f I avoir is quite second rate 
 when drunk alone, unless used! as an extra heavy 
 after-dinner Coffee, but it imparts a pleasing fra- 
 grance and delicacy iwhen blended with a good 
 *'Java," etc. 
 
 Abyssinian Coffee from the vicinity of Harrar 
 and properly called "Harrar Coffee" was formerly 
 shipped via Aden as long-berry "Mocha." It is of 
 of the same color as the real "Mocha," but is long- 
 er and more pointed, and has a rank leathery 
 odor. Harrar is the Capital and trade center of 
 the District of Harrar in Southeastern Abyssinia, 
 an Italian Protectorate, 6,000 feet above sea level. 
 
 52 
 
This is the town from which long-berry Harrar 
 Coffee (sometimes termed Abyssinian or Long- 
 berry iViocha) is shipped, also Abyssinian Coffee 
 grown in the neighborhood of Ad is Abeba. 
 
 LONG-BERRY HARRAR 
 
 This Coffee is classified in two varieties, Harrar 
 and Abyssinian. 
 
 Harrar Coffee is grown principally in the Prov- 
 ince of Harrar, near the City of the same name. 
 This Coffee has a larger bean than Arabian Mo- 
 cha, but is quite similar in appearance. In color 
 it is a blue green, shading to yellow. The Coffee 
 Is usually graded as No. 1 or No. 2, depending 
 upon the size and color of the bean. 
 
 From the City of Harrar the Coffee is trans- 
 ported on mules to Dire-Daoua, and from there 
 forwarded to Djibouti. It is then taken across the 
 Red Sea in small boats to the English port of 
 Aden, whence it is transshipped to all parts of 
 the world. 
 
 ABYSSINIAN COFFEE GROWS UNCULTIVATED 
 
 The other variety is known as Abyssinian. It 
 grows in a wild state in the province west of Har- 
 rar, principally in the Kaffa district, around Adis 
 Abba and north of that city. The trees are per- 
 mitted to grow in a wild, uncultivated condition, 
 the fberries being picked from the ground. This 
 Coffee is not graded, contains many imperfections 
 and is of a dark-gray color. Little, if any, of this 
 particular type reaches this country. 
 
 Prior to the passage of the Food and Drugs 
 Act, Harrar Coffee was known as Long- Berry Mo- 
 cha, to distinguish it from the Arabian Coffee, 
 which, as a rule, is a shorter, smaller bean. 
 
 The Arabian product, to which had been given 
 the term IViocha, from the port of shipment, heing, 
 
 53 
 
as a rule, superior to Harrar Coffee, the latter fin- 
 ally assumed the title Long-berry Mocha, thereby 
 commanding a higher price. As long as the trade 
 could use it as Mocha Coffee it was' in fair de- 
 mand, for the reason that it could usually be se- 
 cured at a cent to a cent and a half below the 
 prevailing price of the genuine Arabian Mocha. 
 
 In the cup the character is similar to the Arab- 
 ian product, but usually not as delicate, although 
 at times shipments of Harrar Coffee have heen 
 received that have been found to be superior to 
 some of the Mocha Coffee on the market. 
 
 Since the passage of the Food and Drugs Act, 
 the demand for Harrar Coffee has decreased, ow- 
 ing to the fact that it cannot be offered to the 
 trade in combination with Java and a blend of 
 Java and Mocha. 
 
 Genuine "Mocha" is sometimes called "short- 
 berry" "Mocha"; this is really superfluous, as 
 there is no other kind of Mocha Coffee, while 
 most insignificant in appearance it is considered 
 the finest type of Coffee known. It is most ex- 
 cellent in blends, and used almost entirely for 
 this purpose. Its great richness and its extreme 
 aromatic flavor renders it more suitable as a 
 blender than an Individual drinker. 
 
 SananI is a high grade short berry Arabian 
 (Mocha) Coffee, coming from the district around 
 Sana Yemen. 
 
 WEST INDIAN COFFEE 
 
 The West Indian Islands iproduce a large quan- 
 tity of excellent Coffee,, but the bulk of the finest 
 grades is exported to Europe, as bett*»r prices can 
 generally he obtained there than in this market. 
 The greater part of the supply shipped to this 
 country comes from the British West Indies, prin- 
 cipally from Jamaica and Haiti, with small quan- 
 tities from Santo Domingo, Cuba a^<3 the Dutch 
 West Indies. 
 
 54 
 
The best Jamaica Coffee, known as "Blue Moun- 
 tain," is a< bean of fair size, attractive in appear- 
 ance and bluish color, making a full, rich, fragrant 
 liquor. It is sometimes called Blue Mountain Ja- 
 maica and grown in the Jamaica district. But 
 ''Plain^Grown," the variety chiefly imported, is a 
 much Inferior grade. The bean, large, whitish, 
 and flat, is generally "hully" and the liquor is 
 strong and rather rank or "grassy" in flavor. It 
 is used almost exclusively for blending with beans 
 of other varieties. 
 
 Haitian and Santo Domingo beans are large, flat 
 and whitish. Their appearance is spoiled by 
 crude preparation, which leaves ihf^vn "huUy" and 
 includes broken beans, stems, etc. Their liquor 
 is not unpleasant, but lacks body, in fact is hard- 
 ly considered good. 
 
 Santo Domingo, Capital of the Dominican Re- 
 public on the Island of Haiti and lends the name 
 Santo Domingo to Coffee, a Coffee as a rule very 
 carelessly prepared, hence the average quality is 
 very poor. 
 
 The best Cuban grades come from the Guanta- 
 namo, Alqulzar and Marcos districts and the Sier- 
 ra Maestra plantations. The beans are large and 
 whitish, and rather rounded on the flat side. They 
 are generally good cuppers. 
 
 Porto Rico produces very fine Coffee, the beans 
 regular and well formed, usually yellow to green- 
 ish in color and very stylish. The best of this 
 variety "washed" commands a good premium In 
 European markets, and the bean of this grade is 
 a large handsome bluish-green, and a very stylish 
 roaster. 
 
 CEYLON AND INDIA 
 
 Coffee-growing in Ceylon reached its height in 
 1890; since then its production has steadily de- 
 clined, the people turning their attention more 
 extensively to tea and rubber. 
 
 55 
 
There are several distinct varieties of Ceylon 
 Coffees, as follows:: "Native", grown in the low- 
 lands, a large, flat, white bean of inferior cup qual- 
 ity. "Plantation", the product of carefully culti- 
 vated planations, the bean large, of light-bluish to 
 a greenish tint, well developed and very regular, 
 giving a liquor which is smooth, rich and aromatic. 
 
 "Liberian-Ceylon", a hybrid" of the Liberian spe- 
 cies; the bean smaller and paler than the parent 
 variety, and the liquor less strong, producing a 
 smooth cup of pleasing flavor. 
 
 "Ceylon-Mocha", a small bean, very even and 
 uniform, generally obtained by separating from 
 the regular "plantation" crop. Both in appearance 
 and in the cup it resembles the genuine ''Mocha". 
 
 The two best-known varieties of Indian Coffees 
 are Malabar, a small, hard bean of most excellent 
 quality, used locally largely for blending and for 
 the best trade. 
 
 "Mysore", a large, bluish-green bean, roasting 
 well and producing a rich, strong liquor, resem- 
 bling Java quite a little. 
 
 ECUADOR (GUAYAQUILS) 
 
 Coffees from Ecuador are generally known as 
 Guayaquils, from the port of that name. The 
 beans run from medium to large. They are firmly 
 uniform in appearance, roast well and give off a 
 full, aromatic liquor. The United States gets quite 
 a lot of Ecuador Coffee. 
 
 PHILIPPINES 
 
 The Coffee plant waas introduced into the Philip- 
 pine Islands by the Spanish missionaries from 
 Java, about 1740. It was produced there for ex- 
 port for many years, but the plant has been nearly 
 exterminated by various pests and insects, and the 
 crop is not so large nor so good as it once was. 
 
 56 
 
The Coffee industry is improving through im- 
 proved cultivation and more proper handling, and 
 it is only a question of time when that country 
 will fill an important position in the Coffee world, 
 the Soil and climatic conditions being admirably 
 suited to Coffee culture. 
 
 In spite of very inferior preparation and scanty 
 attention, the better grades are held in high esteem 
 in the European markets, being recognized as very 
 rich and flavory types. 
 
 The beans are generally classed as Luzon, Ma- 
 nila and Zamboanga, the two latter from shipping 
 ports, the former from the Luzon district. 
 
 Luzon is a small bean, hard and attractive when 
 properly cleaned and prepared (which is seldom), 
 and ranks high. 
 
 The Manila bean is medium size, regular in 
 shape, and pale green in color, with fine aromatic 
 liquor. It comes principally from the districts of 
 Cavlte, Batangas, La Laguna and the immediate 
 vicinity. 
 
 Zamboanga, from the Southern Islands, is the 
 poorest grade. The beans are large, yellowish and 
 rather flabby, the liquor is coarse, brackish and 
 weak, 
 
 HAWAII 
 
 The Konos are perhaps the best Hawaiian pro- 
 duction in Coffees. Kono Coffee beans are me- 
 dium to large, well formed, stylish lookers, good 
 healthy green, fine attractive roasters, rich, very 
 flavory and of good strength; excellent blenders; 
 classy cuppers. 
 
 The Coffee plant is cultivated in many of the 
 Pacific Islands: the Islands of Guinea, Fiji, the 
 Friendly and Samoan groups. 
 
 In the Hawaiian Islands, the production has 
 reached considerable proportions, the production 
 being of a very classy character^ as a rule. 
 
 ^■57 
 
OTHER COUNTRIES 
 
 In addition to the countries previously men- 
 tioned, there are a number of other countries 
 which would help materially in raising the total 
 production. Some of these are fine quality and 
 good types, but the imports into the United States 
 are not sufficient in volume to affect the market 
 conditions. 
 
 Green Coffee is received in the United States in 
 bags, mats and bales. Bags from Brazil usually 
 weigh about 135 pounds. Bags from other coun- 
 tries weigh more as a rule, sometimes weighing 
 more than 20O pounds, particularly Liberian Cof- 
 fee. Ordinarily, however, a bag of Coffee will 
 rarely weigh more than 150 pounds. All countries 
 ship their green coffee in bags, excepting Arabia, 
 which produces only Mocha and that is shipped in 
 bales weighing usually 160 pounds net. Each bale 
 contains either two> or four "pockets" of Coffee. 
 Mats or fibre bags are used in the shipment of 
 Kroes and other East Indian Coffees; however, all 
 Coffee, excepting Mocha, is almost universally 
 shipped in bags. Mats are similar to bales, only 
 they usually have two pockets to the bag, and the 
 mat rarely ever holds more than 60 pounds, while 
 the Mocha balei holds 160 pounds. 
 
 Caffeine: The stimulating principle of Coffee. 
 It is chemically identical to the theine of Tea, Cola, 
 etc. 
 
 58 
 
COFFEE IMPORTS, PRICE AND CONSUMPTION 
 Five Year Averages — 1851-1914 
 
 
 
 
 
 Per 
 
 
 
 
 Import 
 
 Capita 
 
 
 . Net Irr 
 
 
 Price 
 
 Con- 
 
 
 
 
 Quantity 
 
 Value 
 
 per Lb. 
 
 sumption 
 
 Period 
 
 Pounds 
 
 Dollars 
 
 Cents 
 
 Pounds 
 
 1851-55. . . 
 
 . 168,200,000 
 
 13,800,000 
 
 8.24 
 
 6.57 
 
 1856-60... 
 
 . 208,700,000 
 
 19,900,000 
 
 9.60 
 
 7.03 
 
 1861-65... 
 
 . 115,500.000 
 
 12,500,000 
 
 10.70 
 
 3.48 
 
 1866-70... 
 
 . 214,500,000 
 
 22,200,000 
 
 10.44 
 
 5.78 
 
 1871-75... 
 
 . 297,500,000 
 
 42,900,000 
 
 14.52 
 
 7.14 
 
 1876-80... 
 
 . 350,500,000 
 
 52,300,000 
 
 15.14 
 
 7.34 
 
 1881-85... 
 
 . 477,000,000 
 
 44,700,000 
 
 9.64 
 
 8.86 
 
 1886-90. . . 
 
 . 499,500,000 
 
 60,200,000 
 
 12.26 
 
 8.33 
 
 1891-95... 
 
 . 576,400,000 
 
 96,700,000 
 
 16.82 
 
 8.72 
 
 1896-00... 
 
 . 739,800,000 
 
 65,400,000 
 
 '9.28 
 
 10.10 
 
 1901-05... 
 
 . 943.000,000 
 
 66,200,000 
 
 7.10 
 
 11.65 
 
 1906-10... 
 
 ,. 916,300,000 
 
 72,100,000 
 
 7.90 
 
 10.30 
 
 1911-14... 
 
 , . 900,400,000 
 
 108,600,000 
 
 12.12 
 
 9.35 
 
 AN EMINENT PHYSICIAN SAYS. 
 
 Coffee is a food, a whip, a fertilizer, a heat- 
 maker, a true stimulant and thirst-quencher. 
 
 Roasted Coffee in bulk contains little, or no 
 moisture, but over 13 %5 of fat and oil. About 2% 
 of sweet stuff, such as sugar and dextrin are in it, 
 asl well as 50% of pulp and pitch. About 5% of 
 mineral fertilizer is present and nearly 1% of the 
 powerful stimulant. Caffeine. 
 
 Albumen is the real food in Coffee, and it occurs 
 in quantities as large as 12%. 
 
 Of course, a cup of Coffee has a lot of water in 
 addition to the other constituents, but this, to- 
 gether with the heat, makes Coffee all the more 
 easily digested. 
 
 Other than the oils, fats, albumens, caramel, 
 sugar and sweets in Coffee, its intrinsic distinction 
 is the wonderful alkaloid. Caffeine. This strange 
 drug in one-grain doses adds to human endurance, 
 inuscular exertion, mental efficiency and physiolog- 
 ical effort in a most extraordinary way. 
 
 'In all our private and hospital experience, we 
 have never encountered an instance in which dys- 
 pepsia, nervousness, or any other ailment was rea- 
 sonably attributable to the moderate and habitual 
 use of Coffee as a beverage. It is true that hun- 
 
 59 
 
dreds of mortals deny themselves this boon, be- 
 cause of some fancied or educated fear that it 
 isn't good for them. But we are speaking of facts 
 now, and not popular delusions. A good many 
 nervous and sickly people would be better off if 
 they would take a cup of Coffee — good Coffee — for 
 breakfast." 
 
 WHEN COFFEE IS A FOOD DRINK 
 
 Coffee, as the analysis will show, might be re- 
 garded as a fairly nourishing food, if taken directly 
 with very little water, but since the drink is 
 usually prepared by making an infusion of about 
 two ounces to a pint of water, it will be seen that 
 Coffee itself has only a slight nutriment value. 
 Nevertheless, the addition of sugar and milk 
 makes it valuable as a food. The food value of 
 thai raw berry, as eaten by the Arabs, is likewise 
 dubious, for here the injection of such large 
 amounts of caffeine into the system would cer- 
 tainly counteract any tissue-building effect the 
 other constituents of the bean might have. A 
 Coffee infusion, by the way, contains about 70-90i% 
 of the total caffeine of the berry after grounds 
 have settled out. The accompanying figures show 
 the number of calories obtained from one portion 
 of the various foods as they are served in Child's 
 [Restaurants, and what the cost would be if the 
 daily normal requirements of 2,500 calories were 
 furnished entirely by that article. 
 
 CALORIES IN FOODS AND THEIR COST 
 
 Calories in Cost in 
 
 One Portion. 2,500 Calories 
 
 Coffee 195.5 $.^4 
 
 Cocoa 247.5 .50 
 
 Milk 145.3 M 
 
 Cake 200-300. .40-.'60 
 
 Toast 150. .83 
 
 Soup 75-100. 2.50-3.33 
 
It will be seen from these^ figures that the cup 
 of Coffee provides a source of nutrition that is 
 very reasonable in price, and that, compared with 
 milk and soup, is quite an inexpensive food. This, 
 in addition to the fact that it possesses stimu- 
 lating properties and a delightful flavor and taste, 
 should recommend it as a beverage once more to 
 all who are interested in the scientific and eco- 
 nomical planning of the dietary man. 
 
 ROASTING, BLENDING, CARE, ETC. 
 
 Next in importance to following and properly 
 combining cup characteristics is uniformity of 
 roasts. If too light, the bean is not fully de- 
 veloped, and the fibre cells not expanded for the 
 release of the volatile oils, whereas if roasting is 
 carried too far, the aroma and winey character 
 are reduced or destroyed, the oils are "started" 
 and partly driven off, the Coffee soon "sweats," 
 becomes rancid, tough and hard to grind. To the 
 frequent question, which is best, light or dark 
 roasts, — ask the inquirer whether he prefers un- 
 der-ripe fruit or that which is over-ripe. For nor- 
 mal distribution there is one proper degree of 
 roast — rich cinnamon brown. At this point full 
 development of both bean and cup characteristics 
 are gained. A dark roast produces only bitter- 
 ness, and bitterness is not body. 
 
 Coffees for soon consumption stand the full cin- 
 namon limit, but those for distribution over a 
 wide area, where they sometimes stand in grocers' 
 stocks for weeks before being placed in consump- 
 tion, are better preserved when roasted a shade 
 lighter, as deterioration is rapid in full roasted 
 Coffee. In making color comparisons, the Coffee 
 should ibe finely ground and a spoonful of each 
 placed upon glass over blue paper. They may 
 be flattened, squared and edged, like the adjoin- 
 ing squares of a checker-board. With one's back 
 
 61 
 
to the light and the. Coffees held almost to the 
 level of the eyes, even half or quarter shade va- 
 riations may readily be distinguished. 
 
 It is a growing belief that in roasts of shorter 
 duration, the largest percentage of the aromatic 
 properties are retained. A slow roast has the ef- 
 fect of baking and does not give full development; 
 also slow roasts seldom produce bright roasts and 
 they usually make the Coffee hard instead of brit- 
 tle, even when the color standard has been at- 
 tained. While Coffees of widely varying degrees 
 of moisture require somewhat different treatment, 
 the concensus of opinion is that the best results 
 are from a slower fire at the beginning, until some 
 of the moisture has been driven off, when the 
 stronger application of heat may be given for de- 
 velopment. An intense heat in the beginning oft- 
 en results in "tipping," charrinp the little germ 
 at' the end, the most sensitive part of the bean. 
 
 'Scorched beans are due to their being caught 
 at some point in the cylinder, often in a bent 
 flange. Burning on one face, sometimes called 
 "kissing the cheeks" is caused by the too rapid 
 revolution of the cylinder, so that some of the 
 Coffee "carries over." According to the best prac- 
 tice, crowding of cylinders is avoided, many roast- 
 ers making it a rule not to exceed 90 per cent 
 of their rated capacity. Those operating gas roast- 
 ers may effect a fuel economy by running a low 
 grade Coffee in the cylinder after the last roast 
 has been drawn and the gas extinguished; five 
 minutes revolution absorbs the heat and drives off 
 a proportion of moisture. The Coffee, which may 
 then be left in the cylinder is warming up. Double 
 roasting brightens a roast, but it is to the detri- 
 ment of the cup quality. A dull roasting Coffee 
 may be improved by revolving the green Coffee 
 in a cylinder without heat for twenty minutes, 
 this having the effect of milling. 
 
 The use of a small amount of water upon roasts 
 gives better control by checking the roast at the 
 
proper point — the crucial time of its greatest 
 heat; also it swells and, brightens the Coffee. 
 While the addition of water is open to abuse, we 
 believe but very few roasters have soaked their 
 Coffees to offset the natural shrinkage three to 
 four per cent. Such practice would result greatly 
 to the detriment of the cup quality. 
 
 ROASTING REQUIRES INTELLIGENCE AND 
 STUDY 
 
 Do not take for granted too much of what I or 
 anyone else may tell you. Try for yourself. While 
 I will tell you what is good with me, do not forget 
 that Coffee must be good before it is blended, 
 if it is going to he good after blending. You can- 
 not buy your Coffees hit or miss and expect them 
 to make a good blend. Study your Coffee and 
 study your trade. 
 
 Always remember that there can be no set rules 
 for roasting, as different Coffees require different 
 handling. The man who roasts Coffee should be 
 just as intelligent and just as responsible as the 
 man who does the firm's bookkeeping. The book- 
 keeper can do all of his work by rule, but the 
 roaster must use his own judgment, for he has no 
 set rules to govern him. 
 
 It is not really necessary that the roaster should 
 know how to blend, but if he is a good blender 
 he is that much more valuable to his firm. 
 
 As to different blends, I will give a few that I 
 know to be good, but, of course, I cannot lay 
 down hard, fast rules that will apply to every sec- 
 tion of the country, for I do not know what Coffees 
 cost, laid down in all stores, or what are the de- 
 mands of the trade in every place. That is some- 
 thing which each blender must learn for himself. 
 
SUGGESTIONS FOR MEDIUM PRICE BLENDS 
 
 I use very few Rios in any of my blends, as 
 there are so few people who like that strong Rio 
 flavor, and it does not pay to carry a blend with 
 [Rio in it, although I carry a line of Rio to please 
 the trade that calls for it. 
 
 For a good cheap Coffee, the best Santos you 
 can afford generally gives the best satisfaction. 
 For better, one-third Bogota and two-thirds of 
 good Santos; or one-half Santos, one-fourth Bo- 
 gota, one-fourth Guatemala; for still better, two- 
 thirds iBogota, one-third Guatemala; or one-half 
 Bogota, one-fourth Guatemala, one-fourth good 
 Santos. 
 
 Of course, you can vary the grade and price of 
 those blends by the amount of, or the price of 
 the Santos you wish to use. Some Rio might be 
 used in blends in certain territories. A good 
 blend can be made with one-half Maracaibo, one- 
 fourth Bogota, one-fourth Santos; or one-half Bo- 
 gota, one-fourth Maracaibo, one-fourth Santos. But 
 unless one is a pretty good judge of Coffee, I 
 would advise not using Maracaibos in blends. A 
 good Maracaibo is one of the best drinking Cof- 
 fees grown, but they are hard to match, and after 
 you have the line you think you want, you have 
 to try every bag to be sure of it. 
 
 If the price permits, a good cup may >be obtain- 
 ed through using one-half Bourbon with one-fourth 
 each Maracaibo and low cost Bogota. 
 
 Stick to Bogota and Guatemala and Santos with 
 Bogota, as the basis for best moderate price 
 blends; they are bound to win out, as I think 
 they are the best Coffees grown for blending pur- 
 poses. 
 
 64 
 
EVERY BLEND SHOULD CONTAIN THREE 
 COFFEES, OR MORE 
 
 In my judgment every blend should have at least 
 three Coffees in it. In the event of not being able 
 to match one of the 'Coffees the blender has been 
 using, or that he can buy one at one-eight or one- 
 quarter cent less a pound, would not be noticed 
 in the blend; but when cheaper Coffee is bought 
 it must not be used as a sample for the next lot, 
 for one might be tempted to also shade that a 
 little, and soon the good would be shaded out. 
 
 I do not think there is any Coffee that drinks 
 as well by itself as when blended with some other 
 Coffeee. Some blenders^ bl^nd what are known to 
 the trade as acid and non-acid Coffees. Others 
 prefer to blend all acid Coffees, and still others 
 prefer all non-acid Coffees. This is altogether a 
 matter of taste, but when you start, blend up the 
 different kinds and then decide on what you want 
 and stick to it. Do not use acid Coffee one time 
 and a non-acid the next. This is where two-thirds 
 of the dealers are falling down today. 
 
 Take it for yourself: if you like a good, strong^ 
 winey Coffee, and someone gives you a cup of non- 
 acid Coffee, you will say that the Coffee is no 
 good, it is too flat. And if you like the non-acid 
 better and get a cup of winey Coffee, you will say 
 that is no good, as it is too rank or sour. 
 
 COFFEE AT THE "DRINKING POINT" 
 
 In buying your Coffees and trying them out in 
 the cup, be very careful not to make up your 
 mind too quickly, as sometimes a Coffee will taste 
 fine when you first pour the boiling water upon 
 it, but when it cools down to what I call the 
 drinking point, it has flattened out to be practically 
 no good, while on the other hand, the one that did 
 not seem to be quite so good at the start holds its 
 own or improves right through, until it becomes 
 cold. I always give the preference to the Coffee 
 that is best at the drinking point. 
 
 65 
 
THE RANGE OF GRADES FOR BLENDING 
 
 The lowest grades of Brazil Coffee to be used 
 for blending would be those known as Victorias. 
 From this point we should pass on in the scale to 
 Rio, from the low grades to the fancy old-crop 
 golden Rio called for in certain sections of the 
 country. Then there would follow the straight 
 Santos Coffees, beginning with the low grades 
 and running from this point to the medium grades, 
 to be followed by the high-grade Santos types. 
 
 Under the head of Santos is the Coffee known 
 as the flat bean Santos, and also those growths 
 which, on account of appearance and cup charac- 
 ter, are termed Bourbon. In some sections the flat 
 beans would be found desirable, while in other sec- 
 tions the Bourbon Coffees would be preferred. 
 
 After the Brazils would come the mild Coffees, 
 and in some instances these Coffees are sold 
 straight, rather' than blended. There is a certain 
 percentage of the consuming trade that is better 
 pleased with a straight Bogota 'Coffee than with 
 a blend. • > 
 
 GROUPING COFFEES FOR BLENDINiG 
 PURPOSES 
 
 When considering the various blends it will 
 probably be more satisfactory if they are divided 
 into groups. The first group would be the one 
 containing the lowest-priced combinations, and 
 naturally the greatest percentage of Santos. There- 
 fore, the following, suggestions will include blends 
 of Coffees containing 50 per cent of ^Santos or 
 Bourbon Santos as the dealer may find most ac- 
 ceptable in his location. They are simply to be 
 taken as a basis from which the dealer may find 
 it possible to work out acceptable brands for him- 
 self by varying the percentages of the Coffees 
 used, as in his opinion the results warrant. 
 
 66 
 
BLENDS OF SANTOS AND ONE OTHER 
 COFFEE 
 
 The first series would naturally be those con- 
 taining Santos with one other Coffee, as follows: 
 
 Santos and Maracaibo, Santos and Bucaramanga, 
 Santos and Caracas, Santos and Bogota. 
 
 After this there would follow the combinations 
 containing 50 per cent of either Santos or Bourbon 
 Santos, with two other Coffees. 
 
 Santos, Bogota and Maracaibo; Santos, Bogota 
 and Bucaramanga; Santos, iBogota and Guatemala; 
 Santos, Bogota and Mexican. 
 
 BOGOTA AS THE BASIS FOR BLENDS 
 
 The next group would be a series of blends with 
 Bogota as the basis. In many of these blends 50 
 per cent Bogota could be used, but in some, par- 
 ticularly those combinations with Dutch East In- 
 dian Coffees, the quantity of Bogota should be re- 
 duced. This series will run as follows: 
 
 Bogota and Bourbon; Bogota, washed Santos and 
 Bourbon; Bogota and Guatemala; Bogota and Mex- 
 ican; Bogota, Guatemala and Mexican; Bogota, 
 washed Maracaibo and Guatemala; Bogota and 
 East Indian; Bogota, Dutch East Indian and Mex- 
 ican; Bogota, Dutch East Indian and Guatemala; 
 Bogota, Dutch East Indian, washed Maracaibo and 
 Guatemala; Bogota, Dutch East Indian and Mo- 
 cha; Bogota, Dutch East Indian, Guatemala and 
 Mocha. 
 
 The above would be followed by the various 
 combinations that may be made up of Dutch East 
 Indian with Mocha, and also the types of Coffee 
 from the Island of Java with Mocha. These blends 
 usually run from two-thirds to three-quarters Dutch 
 East Indian of Java, the remainder being Mocha. 
 
 67 
 
MOCHA HAS AN INDIVIDUALITY ALL ITS OWN 
 
 The character given to a brand of Coffee by the 
 use of a percentage of Mocha opens up another 
 line of blends. Many blends in years past have 
 contained a very liberal percentage of Mocha, but 
 it has been gradually replaced by Santos Coffees, 
 because of their better appearance and lower 
 price. There is an Individuality to be found in a 
 fine grade of Mocha that is not obtainable from 
 Coffe grown anywhere outside of Arabia, so that 
 blends containing reasonable percentage of Coffees 
 from the Dutch East Indies and Arabia, together 
 with fancy Mexican, Central American, or South 
 American types, are among the finest obtainable. 
 
 Mucli of the so-called Coffee blending is nothing 
 more nor less than mixing of Coffee together in 
 order to obtain a fairly good-looking product at the 
 lowest possible price. Such blending is worked 
 from a price stand-point, and if the result is a 
 fairly good-looking product, and if the cup is not 
 objectionable, it is termed a fancy blend and so 
 marketed. 
 
 To blend Coffee properly, various growths hav- 
 ing different characteristics should be taken, and 
 the Coffees should be used in such proportion that 
 the result from the blend will differ from that of 
 any of the Coffees used straight. Further than 
 this, the beverages obtainable from a blend of this 
 description should be preferable to the results se- 
 cured from the Coffees used separately, otherwise 
 there is no object in blending. 
 
 To originate a blend that is distinctive, that has 
 a pleasant aroma and taste, and also one that is 
 difficult to match, requires an expert knowledge of 
 Coffee and ability to test Coffees in the cup. 
 
 Many of the so-called 'blends are composed prin- 
 cipally of a good, smooth, neutral Santos, with a 
 sufficient percentage of Bogota, Bucaramanga or 
 Mexican Coffee to relieve the flat Santos taste. A 
 
blend of Coffee properly balanced should have a 
 full, rich body as a basis. To this should be added 
 one or another of the growths of Coffee having an 
 acid character, and a further Coffee or Coffees 
 should be used to give, If possible, an. increased 
 aroma. 
 
 A winey Bourbon Santos will be found very ser- 
 viceable in many blends. Types of these Coffees 
 have a distinct winey quality differing from other 
 growths of Coffee, and more nearly approaching 
 Mocha than any other type. Bourbon Coffees vary 
 as to acidity. 'Some blenders will consider an ex- 
 tremely acid Coffee preferable, while others will 
 prefer a Coffee showing less winey quality; but 
 such a Coffee will add the distinct Bourbon flavor 
 to the blend. 
 
 The winey character of certain Mexican Coffees 
 is found to be very serviceable in high-grade 
 blends. The flavor and aroma of the Guatemala 
 types should not be overlooked as adding distinct 
 characteristics to the blends in which they are 
 used. 
 
 For the most part the hackbone of the better 
 blends of Coffee, and, in fact, many of the cheaper 
 blends, will be one or other of the Colomhian 
 growths. Most of these Coffees are known under 
 the general term of Bogota. 
 
 Blends of still different character are obtainable 
 through the use of the various Coffees shipped 
 from the Dutch East Indies, and where the con- 
 sumer has been accustomed to the character given 
 to a blend by the use of a percentage of Padang, 
 Mandheling or Ankola Coffee, they prefer a blend 
 ofl this description to the blends made up of Cen- 
 tral and South American Coffees. 
 
 69 
 
The following blends have proven very popular 
 in their price and class: 
 
 5% Mocha 
 10% Maracaibo 
 15% Bogota 
 40% Santos 
 30% Robusta 
 OR 
 
 5% Mocha 
 10% Maracaibo 
 15% Bogota 
 15% Nicaragua 
 15% Robusta 
 40% iSantos 
 
 10% Bogota 
 20% Sa-Titos 
 20% Salvador 
 40% Nicaragua 
 10% Robusta 
 
 ***** 
 
 30% Guatemala 
 30% Bogota 
 10% iSalvador 
 30% ISantos 
 
 ***** 
 
 30% Natural Robusta 
 40% Liberian A. J. 
 10% Rio 
 10% iCosta Rica 
 10% Nicaragua 
 
 ***** 
 
 10% Mocha 
 20% Java 
 10% Bucaramanga 
 10% Maracaibo 
 20% Guatemala 
 30% Nicaragua 
 
 ***** 
 
 40% Mexican 
 
 20% Bogota 
 
 20% Washed Guatemala 
 
 20% Salvador 
 
 ***** 
 
 10% Colombian 
 50% Mexican 
 40% Nicaragua 
 
 OR BETTER 
 20% Colomibian 
 30% Guatemala 
 30% Nicaragua 
 20%? Santos 
 
 20%? Robusta 
 20% iSantos 
 30% Salvador 
 30% Mexican 
 
 ***** 
 
 70% Rio 
 20% Robusta 
 10% Salvador 
 
 ***** 
 
 10% Costa Rica 
 10% (Santos 
 70% Robusta 
 10% Guatemala 
 
 ***** 
 
 40% Bogota 
 25% ISantos 
 15% Bucaramanga 
 10% Mocha 
 10% Java 
 
 ***** 
 
 40% Bogota 
 10% (Salvador 
 10% Nicaragua 
 
 40% Rio 
 
 ***** 
 
 40% Natural Nicaragua 
 10% Costa Rica 
 40% Santos 
 10% Salvador 
 
 ***** 
 
 40% Guatemala 
 20% Bogota 
 20% ISalvador 
 20% ISantos 
 
 ***** 
 
 50% iLiberian A. J. 
 30% Guatemala 
 20% Big Bean Mexican 
 ***** 
 
 25% Mocha 
 75% Java 
 
 ***** 
 
 50% Bogota 
 35% Santos 
 15% Bucaramanga 
 ***** 
 
 60% Bogota 
 
 30% Old Brown Colombian 
 
 10% Godd Bourfbon Santos 
 
 70 
 
A good point to consider in blending is to get a 
 good, strong, smooth, sweet, heavy bodied, winey 
 liquor; not a thin, flat, spoiled water drink. There 
 may be better Coffees than Santos, Bogotas and 
 Guatemalas for blending purposes, but I have nev- 
 er had the pleasure of meeting them. Of course, 
 you can find a chop, once in a while, in any Coffee 
 that is exceptionally good, but when you come to 
 match it again you are lost, as it seems almost 
 impossible to get two chops alike. With Bogota, 
 Santos and Guatemala it is not so hard to match 
 them. 
 
 One-half Guatemala, one-quarter Bogota and one- 
 quarter Santos does not, in my opinion, make a 
 good blend. If you make it one-half Bogota, one- 
 quarter Guatemala and one^quarter Santos, you 
 will have a blend that will stand up to the best of 
 them; I know of nothing better within the price 
 range. 
 
 /I 
 
COFFEE ROASTING TABLE 
 
 Sixteen Per Cent Shrinkage including %c per 
 Pound far Roasting 
 
 Green 
 
 Roasted 
 
 Green 
 
 Raasted 
 
 Green 
 
 Roaste 
 
 12 
 
 14.88 
 
 21% 
 
 26.19 
 
 31 
 
 37.50 
 
 12^ 
 
 15.18 
 
 21% 
 
 26.48 
 
 31% 
 
 37.79 
 
 121/2 
 
 15.48 
 
 22 
 
 26.76 
 
 31% 
 
 38.09 
 
 1234 
 
 15.78 
 
 221/4 
 
 27.08 
 
 31% 
 
 38.39 
 
 13 
 
 16.07 
 
 22% 
 
 27.38 
 
 32 
 
 38.69 
 
 131/4 
 
 16.37 
 
 22% 
 
 27.67 
 
 32% 
 
 38.98 
 
 131/^ 
 
 16.67 
 
 23 
 
 27.97 
 
 32% 
 
 39.28 
 
 13%, 
 
 16.96 
 
 23% 
 
 28.27 
 
 32% 
 
 39.58 
 
 14 
 
 17.26 
 
 23% 
 
 28.57 
 
 33 
 
 39.88 
 
 UV4. 
 
 17.56 
 
 23% 
 
 28.86 
 
 33% 
 
 40.17 
 
 UV2 
 
 17.86 
 
 24 
 
 29.16 
 
 33% 
 
 40.47 
 
 14% 
 
 18.15 
 
 24% 
 
 29.46 
 
 33% 
 
 40.77 
 
 15 
 
 18.45 
 
 24% 
 
 29.76 
 
 34 
 
 41.07 
 
 15^ 
 
 18.75 
 
 24% 
 
 30.05 
 
 34% 
 
 41.37 
 
 151/^ 
 
 19.05 
 
 25 
 
 30.35 
 
 34% 
 
 41.67 
 
 15% 
 
 19.34 
 
 25% 
 
 30.65 
 
 34% 
 
 41.97 
 
 16 
 
 19.64 
 
 25% 
 
 30.95 
 
 35 
 
 42.26 
 
 16^ 
 
 19.94 
 
 25% 
 
 31.25 
 
 35% 
 
 42.56 
 
 leVa 
 
 20.24 
 
 26 
 
 31.55 
 
 35% 
 
 42.86 
 
 16% 
 
 20.54 
 
 26% 
 
 31.85 
 
 35% 
 
 43.15 
 
 17 
 
 20.83 
 
 26% 
 
 32.15 
 
 36 
 
 43.45 
 
 im 
 
 21.13 
 
 26% 
 
 32.44 
 
 36% 
 
 43.75 
 
 VlVz 
 
 21.43 
 
 27 
 
 32.74 
 
 36% 
 
 44.05 
 
 17% 
 
 21.73 
 
 27% 
 
 33.04 
 
 36% 
 
 44.34 
 
 18 
 
 22.02 
 
 27% 
 
 33.34 
 
 37 
 
 44.64 
 
 18^ 
 
 22.32 
 
 27% 
 
 33.63 
 
 37% 
 
 44.94 
 
 18% 
 
 22.62 
 
 28 
 
 33.93 
 
 37% 
 
 45.24 
 
 18% 
 
 22.92 
 
 ''i^%y4. 
 
 34.23 
 
 37% 
 
 45.54 
 
 19 
 
 23.21 
 
 28% 
 
 34.53 
 
 38 
 
 45.83 
 
 19^ 
 
 23.51 
 
 28% 
 
 34.82 
 
 38% 
 
 46.13 
 
 19% 
 
 23.81 
 
 29 
 
 35.12 
 
 38% 
 
 46.43 
 
 19% 
 
 24.11 
 
 29% 
 
 35.42 
 
 38% 
 
 46.73 
 
 2a 
 
 24.40 
 
 29% 
 
 35.72 
 
 39 
 
 47.02 
 
 20^ 
 
 '24.70 
 
 29% 
 
 36.01 
 
 39% 
 
 47.32 
 
 20% 
 
 25.00 
 
 30 
 
 36.31 
 
 39% 
 
 47.62 
 
 20% 
 
 25.30 
 
 30% 
 
 36.61 
 
 39% 
 
 47.92 
 
 21 
 
 25.59 
 
 30% 
 
 3'6.90 
 
 40 
 
 48.21 
 
 21% 
 
 25.89 
 
 30% 
 
 3.7.20 
 
 
 
 72 
 
ICED COFFEE BLENDS 
 
 Coffee can be made as acceptable a cool summer 
 drink as it is the popular hot beverage of the win- 
 ter. To obtain this result, the roaster must bear 
 in mind that all cold drinks require more substance 
 than those where heat is a factor. Coffee for icing 
 should be so prepared as to give out a deeper col- 
 ored liquor than the infusion for hot Coffee. 
 
 Those Coffees having a heavy winey or pro- 
 nounced roughness, extremes in flavor, are best 
 avoided for iced Coffee. The appeal must come 
 first through the eye by the deeper color of the 
 liquor; then to the palate, by the smoothness of 
 the decoction. Bogotas of moderately winey but 
 heavy body, well-dried high-grade Cucuta Maracai- 
 bo, combined withj a soft drinking Santos, will be 
 found as a standard to give the best results. 
 
 Careful tests demonstrate that in color of liquor, 
 flavor and body, no moderate cost blend excels 
 these three characters in combination. Roasted 
 correctly, they almost defy blundering in the mak- 
 ing, being as nearly fool-proof as can be made. 
 
 All directions for making Iced Coffee should em- 
 phasize two facts, viz: making the Coffee some- 
 what stronger than for hot Coffee, and that the 
 receptacle for holding the Coffee should be placed 
 on the Ice, not the Ice in the Coffee. 
 
 VARIOUS HIGHLY ACCEPTABLE METHODS OF 
 
 BREWING COFFEES, AS STATED BY 
 
 VARIOUS AUTHORITIES 
 
 ' 'Coffee (like bread) should be cooked, not half- 
 Cooked, not over-cooked, but cooked done. This 
 applies to both Roasting and Brewing. Care should 
 be used in Brewing Coffee as in baking bread. 
 
 7a 
 
GRINDING, PREPARATION, ETC., ETC. 
 
 The manner of grinding or cutting the Coffee 
 bean depends entirely upon individual taste and 
 custom. 
 
 Coarse-ground Coffee is not generally desirable, 
 as it requires too long an infusion to extract the 
 full strength, and too much boiling tends to spoil 
 both flavor and) aroma. 
 
 A medium-fine grind is the most generally ser- 
 viceable for ordinary home use. 
 
 There are many different formulas for prepar- 
 ing Coffee for the table, the majority capable of 
 being classified under the three headings: 
 
 Infusion or Drawing: Putting the ground Cof- 
 fee into boiling water and keeping it hot on the 
 range without boiling for eight to ten minutes. 
 With ordinary care this method will produce a 
 very pleasing beverage, but it does not bring out 
 much of the stimulating property of the bean. 
 
 Decoction or Boiling: Putting the ground Cof- 
 fee in cold water, allowing it to come to a boil 
 and keeping it boiling for a few seconds. This 
 brings out more strength than the preceding meth- 
 od, and makes an excellent liquor, but if the boil- 
 ing is continued too long, the fine aroma passes 
 away. A few grains of salt improves any Coffee. 
 When made by boiling, a large cup of Coffee 
 contains about 2% grains each of tannin and caf- 
 feine, properties of the fiber or grounds which 
 are extracted by their immersion. (Medical au- 
 thorities state that the last mentioned is a true 
 stimulant in that It gives no reaction). But when 
 taken in large quantity these properties are said 
 to affect persons of highly nervous temperament. 
 For the "old-fashioned" boiling method, the 
 white of an egg is first stirred into the ground 
 Coffee. The latter is then placed in the pot and 
 the proper amount of boiling water is poured 
 over it, the water, taken fresh, having previously 
 been allowed to boil hard for ten minutes. The 
 
 74 
 
Coffee is permitted to come to a good boil, is 
 stirred thoroughly once and then placed on the 
 back of the stove for ten minutes. If any grounds 
 appear on top, they are stirred a little and allow- 
 ed to settle. This process gives excellent results, 
 but it requires a good deal of care. 
 
 The mistaken argument of economy is some- 
 times advanced in favor of boiling. Let it be 
 known that a pound of high-grade Coffee will pro- 
 duce from 35 to 38 smooth, rich and delicious 
 cups by the "drip" method, a cost of one cent per 
 cup, the cheapest and best enjoyed article on 
 one's table. Coffee stands as the single food pro- 
 duct that has not doubled in price the past ten 
 years. 
 
 Filteration or Distilling: By the use of a "per- 
 colator" the boiling water passing slowly through 
 the ground Coffee held in the center of the ma- 
 chine. This method is largely used because the 
 result is nearly always uniform. No matter which 
 method is employed, the grounds should never be 
 alowed to remain in the Coffee for any length of 
 time after it is made. 
 
 In hotels, restaurants and other establishments 
 where it is brewed in large quantities, the Coffee 
 is generally held in a bag or other receptacle in 
 the upper part of the urn, in order that the grounds 
 may be more easily removed. 
 
 The best general advice to the person wishing 
 a good cup of Coffee is to buy Coffee as pure as 
 possible, and of a flavor that suits the individual 
 taste, to have it fresh roasted, fresh ground to 
 moderate fineness and fresh made In a scrupulous- 
 ly clean Coffee-pot. 
 
 With these points secured, a little practice will 
 produce a fine beverage by any reasonable pro- 
 cess. A little cold water dashed in boiling Coffee 
 checks the boiling and causes the grounds to 
 settle, leaving the beverage perfectly clear. In 
 Creole cookery, the sauce result is obtained by 
 adding a small piece of charcoal. 
 
 75 
 
French Coffee: The special flavor in much of 
 the Coffee served in France is generally due to 
 any one or all of the three following causes: 
 (1) the addition of 10% to 30% of Chicory, (2) 
 the especially heavy roasting of the bean, and 
 (3) the occasional addition of a little butter and 
 sugar during the roasting. 
 
 It is generally made in a percolator from fine 
 ground Coffee, the liquid being passed through 
 percolators two or three times to acquire greater 
 strength. 
 
 Cafe au Lait, ''Coffee with Milk" or French 
 Breakfast Coffee," generally means strong Coffee 
 served with boiling milk, about half Coffee and 
 half milk, or to suit the individual taste. 
 
 Cafe Noir, Black Coffee or After Dinner Coffee, 
 requires an especially generous proportion of Cof- 
 fee, and percolation continued until the liquid is 
 black. 
 
 Demi-Tasse de Cafe, or Cafe Demitasse, means 
 literally only a small or half-cup of Coffee, but, 
 carelessly used, the expression has come to signi- 
 fy Cafe Noir or After Dinner Coffee. 
 
 Cafe a la Creme is made by adding plain or 
 whipped cream to good Cafe Noir. Vienna Coffee 
 is prepared in a special urn, which passes and re- 
 passes the steam through the (finely ground) 
 Coffee, thus retaining the full aroma. It is serv- 
 ed with whipped cream. 
 
 Creole Coffee is prepared by slow percolation. 
 The Coffee, fresh roasted and ground, is pressfed 
 compactly in the filter of the pot and a small 
 quantity of boiling water is poured over. When 
 this has passed through, more water is added, 
 the process being continued at intervals of about 
 five minutes. The result is a very strong and rich 
 extract, which inay either be served fresh or be 
 preserved in an air-tight vessel for future use. 
 A small quantity, even so little as a tablespoonful, 
 of good "Creole Coffee" Ist sufficient for a cup of 
 Coffee of ordinary strength. 
 
 76 
 
Turkish Coffee is made from beans ground as 
 fine as powder, placed in a pot (either large or 
 "individual") with cold water and brought to the 
 boiling point. It is never allowed to boil, and is 
 served as it is without straining or settling the 
 grounds. 
 
 Dutch Coffee is prepared by cold water process 
 from very fine-ground Coffee held in a special 
 filter* with top and bottom reservoirs. It requires 
 four hours or longer for the water to percolate 
 through the Coffee, and in its passage it extracts 
 a large percentage of strength and flavor. 
 
 Russian Coffee is strong blaci< Coffee. 
 
 Coffee Extracts or Essence. Genuine Coffee ex- 
 tract is made commercially by distillation, steam- 
 ing and evaporating the liquid until it is reduced 
 to the desired strength. 
 
 One or two teaspoonfuls is generally sufficient 
 lo make a cup of Coffee of moderate strength. 
 For household purposes, it can be made nearly 
 the same result by following the formula for 
 Creole Coffee. 
 
 Coffee, whether raw or roasted, should always 
 be kept away from all strong odors, as it absorbs 
 them very rapidly. Roasted Coffee (as already 
 mentioned) should never be exposed to the air, as 
 it will quickly lose its flavor and aroma. 
 
 A few things about Coffee by a Brazilian Expert: 
 
 HOW TO GRIND COFFEE 
 
 Coffee should not be ground too fine to avoid 
 sediments and obtain it clear. The water will 
 dissolve the essence in the coarse-ground Coffee 
 very well. Wherever possible. Coffee should also 
 be kept, in preference, in the bean, and ground 
 only when needed for use. The reason is that 
 Coffee is exceedingly susceptible to taking bad 
 odors, especially when in the ground state. Even 
 in; the green state in the hold of a ship is liable 
 
 77 
 
to take bad odors from the ship, and it is well 
 known that you can never get a good cup of Cof- 
 fee on ship^board, because the ground Coffee, as 
 soon as exposed, takes the smell and taste of salt 
 water. 
 
 In Brazil, when the interior of a house has 
 been freshly painted, the custom is to place a 
 plate with ground Coffee in the middle of the 
 room over night. Next morning the smell of 
 fresh paint is gone from the room, but the Coffee 
 smells and tastes like a paint-pot. It is therefore 
 essential that all vessels used in the roasting, 
 grinding and preparing of Coffee should be kept 
 scrupulously clean and odorless. 
 
 HOW TO MAKE GOOD COFFEE 
 
 Coffee should never be boiled; it extracts the 
 obnoxious compounds and gives it a disagreeable 
 bitter taste. 
 
 Upon occasion: Mrs. Leslie Carter, the Actress, 
 while staying at a hotel in Sedalia, Mo., com- 
 plained of the abominable bitter Coffee they were 
 serving her. The representative of a wholesale 
 'Coffee firm, who overheard her, went to the kitch- 
 en and prepared her some fresh Coffee, really 
 good. Mrs. Cartel^ was so pleased with it that it 
 opened an acquaintance which resulted in Mrs. 
 Carter engaging the salesman as her business 
 manager. 
 
 The ibest way to make good Coffee is by the 
 drip system. Numerous machines for this are on 
 the market, all more or less on the same principle, 
 which consists in letting hot water filter through 
 the pulverized Coffee contained in a receptacle, 
 the bottom of which is a fine sieve, through 
 iwhich the water runs off. 
 
 In the best of these machines the lower part is 
 a receptacle containing as much water as neces- 
 sary for the number of cups of Coffee required. 
 Above this, fitting into the first, is another recep- 
 
 78 
 
tacle with a fine sieve bottom, holding the amount 
 of ground Coffee required, ordinarily about a ta- 
 blespoonful to the cup. 
 
 A metal or glass tube passes from the bottom 
 of the lower receptacle to the top of the upper 
 one. When the machine is put on the stove or 
 over a lamp, the pressure of the steam developed 
 forces the boiling water through the tube to the 
 upper receptacle, when it spreads out over the 
 Coffee, filters through it and runs through the 
 sieve to the bottom. This continues until the 
 Coffee has the desired strength. 
 
 A good way^ too, and much used in Brazil and 
 Europe, is the "old-fashioned" way of putting 
 ground Coffee into a conical sack of clean new 
 linen, held open by a wire ring, and hanging It 
 over a can. Hot water is then poured over the 
 Coffee and repoured, until it is strong enough. 
 Before using it, the sack should be boiled in Cof- 
 fee to extract the odor and taste of the new linen. 
 
 In all cases the greatest care should be taken 
 that all utensils are always kept scrupulously 
 clean. If the Coffee is made in metal machines, 
 it should be transferred to a porcelain jug as 
 soon as it is made, and the machine carefully 
 cleaned, as Coffee attacks all metals, especially 
 copper. 
 
 It is also essential that the water used in mak- 
 ing Coffee be pure and clear, and contain no min- 
 eral salts. It should not be boiling, but of a tem- 
 perature that you can just put your finger in 
 without scalding. Boiling water not only volatil- 
 izes the aromatic essences, but extracts the ob- 
 noxious compounds which give' the Coffee a disa- 
 greeable taste. 
 
 Connoisseurs who are very particular about this 
 beverage go so far as to use only cold water in 
 extracting their Coffee. They have the patience 
 to put it in a porcelain filter, pour cold water on 
 it over and over again until it is strong enough. 
 
 79 
 
Then they put the can containing the infusion 
 into a hot water bath; that is, another vessel 
 containing boiling water, and heat it to tlie boil- 
 ing point. 
 
 Others, again, put the ground Coffee in a cov- 
 ered porcelain pot with sufficient cold water and 
 let it stand for ten to twelve hours. Then they 
 carefully pour off the liquid, or filter it, and heat 
 it in a hot water bath. This certainly is the way 
 to obtain the most delicious Coffee, because it 
 retains all the aroma and fine flavor without dis- 
 solving any of the obnoxious bitter-tasting com- 
 ponents. 
 
 Coffee should be drunk as soon as possible after 
 making it, and not kept standing too long. Nor 
 should it be. kept over and warmed up again, as 
 it loses its flavor by standing. 
 
 COFFEE DRINKING IN BRAZIL 
 
 In Brazil, where you get the most delicious 
 Coffee in the world, and Coffee making has de- 
 veloped into an art, there is a saying that Coffee, 
 to be good, should be: "Black as Night, Hot as 
 Hell and Sweet as Love." 
 
 In fact, however, a real good cup of Coffee, as 
 you get it in the leading Cafes in Hio or Sao 
 Paulo, is not black as night or so very strong, 
 but of a chestnut color, so clear and transparent 
 that you can almost see the bottom of the cup 
 and it leaves an amber stain. 
 
 It should froth like chocolate, and its fragrant 
 aroma should fill the room. There are no saloons 
 or bars in Brazil, and Coffee takes the place of 
 "Social" drink, of high-ball or cocktail. 
 
 There are Cafes in every street that make a 
 specialty of serving only Coffee. Their wide open 
 doors, little round marble-topped tables, (with 
 small cups and saucers set up around a sugar 
 basin, make inviting pictures. 
 
 80 
 
You sit down, pull a cup towards you, and im- 
 mediately an attendant comes and fills it with de- 
 licious hot Coffee, for which you lay down a nick- 
 el coin of lOO Reis, equal to three cents. 
 
 If you pay a social visit, or call on the President 
 of the Republic, or any high official, the first 
 thing you will observe is a servant coming in with 
 a tray of cups and saucers and a Coffee-can, to 
 hand you a cup of fragrant hot Coffee. After you 
 have taken that you proceed to state your busi- 
 ness. 
 
 Americans may laugh at this and call it un- 
 business-like, but it cannot be denied that this 
 show of hospitality will remove any restraint and 
 put you at your ease, while the stimulating effect 
 of the hot Coffee clears your ideas. 
 
 In this way the average Brazilian business 
 man, or politician, or whatever he may be, takes 
 on an average in a day from one to two dozen 
 small cups of black Coffee, and he not only sur- 
 vives it, but keeps healthy, works quite as hard 
 as the average American business man, and main- 
 tains a clearer brain and steadier nerves than if 
 he had fortified himself with a dozen high-balls. 
 And this in spite of what "Postum" and other 
 speculative competitors (?) have to say concerning 
 the injurious effects of Coffee. 
 
 To this habit of continually taking small cups 
 of black Coffee during the day may be ascribed to 
 the limitation of the use of alcoholic drinks and 
 the absence of inebriate persons in Brazil, for 
 Coffee seems to create an aversion to them in the 
 system. 
 
 The Brazilian, is accustomed to take a light 
 wine with his meals, but never an alcoholic 
 drink between meals, especially no spirits. 
 
 One (considered good) authority says: Avoid 
 cream with Coffee. 
 
 Coffee taken with hot milk in the morning, or, 
 in fact, any time, is an excellent aliment, a meal 
 in itself, we may say. Beware, however, of tak- 
 
 81 
 
ing Coffee with a lot of cream in it, together with 
 your meals, as is generally the custom through- 
 out the United States 
 
 The fat in the cream enters with certain com- 
 ponents in the Coffee into a combination which 
 is not only indigestible in itself, but obstructs 
 the digestion of the accompanying meals and oth- 
 er rich foods, and will lead in time to chronic 
 indigestion and stomach, heart and liver troubles. 
 
 And if "Postum" and other competitors (?) 
 bring forward as an argument, cases of where the 
 continued use of Coffee has become in time in- 
 jurious to the system, it has been owing to the 
 fact that the persons in question have been in 
 the habit of using badly prepared Coffee with a 
 lot of rich cream as the customary drink with 
 their meals. 
 
 On the other hand, a small cup of well-prepar- 
 ed, good, hot, black Coffee taken a s.hort time 
 after your meals, will cause a pleasant well-feel- 
 ing and contentment, because, taken in that way, 
 it increases the secretion of gastric juice, and 
 has a marvelous effect upon the digestion. 
 
 HOW TO PREPARE THE BEVERAGE FOR 
 HOTELS, OAFES AND RESTAURANTS 
 
 Making Coffee in a Coffee Urn for Hotels or 
 IRestaurants is decidedly the practical way to 
 make Coffee in an Urn. Coffee that will please 
 your trade, requires first a clean textile bag sus- 
 pended about two-thirds of the way to the bot- 
 tom. 'Percolating quietly through the bag and re- 
 pouring is the only process known giving the best 
 results. 
 
 Never use Urns that blow steam through the 
 'Coffee. They may use less Coffee, but the result- 
 ing liquor is not clear, neither is it aromatic. 
 Filter Paper istrainers are frail, and do not allow 
 the Coffee to seep through, so it is best to avoid 
 the method that employs them. 
 
 82 
 
HOW COFFE SHOULD BE ROASTED AND 
 GROUND 
 
 The Coffee should be roasted to a dark chestnut 
 color. When roasted too high, the beverage be- 
 comes bitter; when too low, It tastes raw. 
 
 Grind the Coffee so as to resemble granulated 
 sugar. Coarse ground Coffee gives little strength, 
 too finely ground retards filtering and frequently 
 leaves a brackish taste. Watch your Coffee mill 
 closely, adjust and oil it occasionally; nearly all 
 mills work loose. 
 
 Use from 10 to 12 ounces of Coffee to each gal- 
 lon of water for regular Coffee, and from 12 to 16 
 ounces of Coffee to each gallon of water for after- 
 dinner Coffee. 
 
 More or less Coffee may be used, should these 
 amounts not suit the demand of your trade. 
 
 First wet or moisten the bag inside the Urn, 
 then pour the Coffee in the bag; pour through it 
 bubbling boiling water, use no other. Simply be- 
 cause water vaporizing or steaming does not al- 
 ways mean that it is at the boiling point, and un- 
 less it is at the bubbling boiling point, it will not 
 mix with the oil of the Coffee. 
 
 This is one of the most important essentials 
 in brewing good Coffee. 
 
 Next re-pour the liquid Coffee through the 
 grounds until all the liquid has been through the 
 ground Coffee at least twise. Let this stand four 
 or five minutes, it is then ready to serve if requir- 
 ed. Nothing is needed to settle it. It will be 
 perfectly clear but not so strong as later. The 
 bag containing the grounds should remain in the 
 Urn 30 to 40 minutes, but no longer. 
 
 The desired strength will be extracted without 
 any bitterness whatever, if these instructions are 
 followed. The seeping through of the liquid gives 
 the Coffee that desirable cooked taste. 
 
 83 
 
THE CARE OF BAGS AND URNS IMPORTANT 
 
 Wash your bags thoroughly in hot water, but 
 use no soap. (A small pinch of soda will help.) 
 Rinse in cold water and let them remain in cold 
 water until needed. Dry bags absorb every odor 
 of the kitchen. Always have two bags for each 
 urn in use, and start new ones every Sunday or at 
 any rate once a week. 
 
 Wash the urns every night with soda or powder 
 and hot water. Rinse them with hot water, then 
 with cold water. While so doing leave the faucet 
 open and the lid off of the urn, so that the air 
 may circulate freely. 
 
 Always serve cream with your Coffee if possible. 
 Always let your customer (or guest) be the judge 
 as to how much or how little. He unquestionably 
 knows his individual taste and requirements better 
 than you. At most, little is needed, and the Coffee 
 is so much better without it. Have your cups 
 warm and your pots very, very hot. China pots 
 are the best to be used. 
 
 By taking pains and following the directions 
 as above given, your Coffee thus obtained will 
 help materially to make your breakfast trade 
 grow. It is the Coffee, Rolls and Butter that make 
 it successful. 
 
 COFFEE BLENDS FOR RESTAURANTS 
 
 William B. Harris, the Government's Coffee ex- 
 pert, believes that the Coffee of prime importance 
 in preparing restaurant blends is Bogota. He ad- 
 vises the use of a full-bodied Bogota and a winey, 
 Bourbon Santos in the proportion of 75% Bogota 
 and 25% Santos. 
 
 Blends may also be made up from combinations 
 of Bogota, Mexicans and Guatemalas. 
 
 According to Mr. Harris, the average blend of 
 good Coffee when made up 2^^ pounds to 5 gallons 
 of water, will produce a liquor of good color and 
 
strength. For many hotels, however, this may not 
 answer, as it is not heavy enough. 
 
 No steward, hotel or restaurant man should ever 
 advertise Coffee on his menu, and then serve a 
 drink employing Chicory (or any other substitute), 
 because, while there is no Federal law against 
 such a practice, there are State laws against it, 
 and every customer would gladly subscribe to a 
 Moral law which would make it misbranding. 
 
 Hotel men should purchase their Coffee in the 
 bean and do their own grinding. Then they need 
 never have cause to complain that their Coffee 
 man deceived them, or that some salesman mis- 
 led them. 
 
 The hotel steward) wishing to serve his patrons 
 with a good heavy-bodied Coffee, particularly a 
 black after-dinner Coffee, should use three, four, 
 or even four and a half pounds of ground Coffee 
 to five gallons of water. 
 
 WAYS SUGGESTED FOR SERVING COFFEE. 
 HONEY, FOR INSTANCE 
 
 Perhaps you have never flavored your Coffee 
 with honey. Yet you can search a long time be- 
 fore you can taste anything more delicious than 
 a perfect cup of Coffee sweetened with some per- 
 fect sweet clover honey. Of course, you would 
 not use honey in the comb. Strained honey, or 
 better still, the newer solidified, or granulated, 
 honey gives the best results. 
 
 The Coffee may be served either black or topped 
 with whipped cream. Probably, served in this 
 way, the Coffee is best suited to after lunch, or 
 after tea, service ; without the cream, it may take 
 the place of the familiar Cafe Noir. 
 
 There is no better luncheon accompaniment to 
 the honeyed Coffee than some delicious, old-fash- 
 ioned sponge or nut cake. 
 
 For afternoon tea, try it with cinnamon toast, 
 and after dinner use it alone with its delicious 
 self, 
 
 85 
 
MARSHMALLOWS, A DAINTY SWEETENING 
 
 Speaking of the after-dinner Coffee, or Coffee 
 particularly suited to party service, are you fa- 
 miliar with Marshmallows as sweetening agent? 
 No! Well, just drop two in a medium-sized cup, 
 then fill it with Coffee. The result will be a de- 
 lightful sweetness, with a frothy foam on the top 
 which somewhat resembles cream. If you like, 
 you can add a little plain cream also to the bever- 
 age, but it is not necessary. 
 
 When serving this at dinner, you will find it 
 ^delicious when accompanied by some simple cake 
 or wafers, flavored with vanilla and containing 
 either cocoanut or nuts. 
 
 The same combination would be suitable for a 
 party, or a little French pastry could be used if 
 desired. If the Coffee is served from the pantry, 
 a dessert spoonful of Marshmallow Creme to the 
 medium-sized cup may be used instead of the 
 Marshmallow proper. 
 
 One of the reasons why Marshmallows are so 
 well adapted to Coffee is because of the vanilla 
 flavoring which they contain. Sometimes a drop 
 or two of this extract may be served in each cup 
 of Coffee, or the Coffee may be topped with sweet- 
 ened whipped cream flavored with vanilla, as is 
 done so much in foreign countries. 
 
 In this case, the Coffee should be served as a 
 part of the dessert, because the whipped cream is 
 so rich. 
 
 A harmonious accompaniment to this consists 
 of fruit tarts, such as strawberry, raspberry, or 
 little orange pies, or a cake or cooky which is 
 rather highly seasoned with spice. 
 
 "COFFEE MARASCHINO" (Bone-dry) 
 
 Now that the old type of Coffee, with brown 
 sugar and brandy, is no longer being served, "Cof- 
 fee Maraschino" will undoubtedly take its place, 
 
 86 
 
especially as Maraschino Cherries are now being 
 put up without liquor. 
 
 In this case, a demitasse is used, the Coffee 
 being flavored with a little of the liquid from the 
 Maraschino Cherries and a cherry or two being 
 dropped into each cup. 
 
 Cream, either plain or whipped, may be used or 
 not, as desired. If served as "black Coffee' at the 
 end of a dinner, there should be no accompani- 
 ment, unless, perhaps, that of the usual bon-bons, 
 but if served as part of the dessert course at 
 luncheon, almost any kind of cake is a suitable 
 accompaniment, except one containing chocolate. 
 
 But in any case, when making the Coffee, be 
 sure to put in a few grains of salt. 
 
 3ALT TO ''MELLOW" COFFEE 
 
 Have you ever tried adding a few grains of salt 
 to your cup of Coffee? You will be surprised to 
 find how the flavor is improved. It attains an in- 
 describable mellowness. 
 
 Of course, there is a reason, and in this case 
 it is the addition of just the right amount of 
 alkali to neutralize the slight acidity of the Coffee 
 (It also overcomes the more or less raw taste pro- 
 duced by the woody fibre of the Coffee) for all 
 occasions, and it is absolutely essential when Cof- 
 fee is used as the flavoring agent of various des- 
 serts, otherwise the taste is "empty." 
 
 MAPLE SUGAR 
 
 Again, have you ever tried Maple Sugar as a 
 Coffee sweetener? You may have heard of it dur- 
 ing the sugar shortage of the war, and afraid, 
 perhaps, that it would not taste good, and clung 
 tenaciously to your white sugar. In reality, it is 
 delicious, for there is something about the flavors 
 of Maple and Coffee that harmonize. 
 
 87 
 
That is one reason why a cup of Coffee and a 
 plate of griddle cakes or waffles with Maple Syrup 
 is a perfect combination. 
 
 As to the amount of Maple Sugar to use in 
 sweetening the Coffee, just serve it in the sugar 
 bowl, broken into little lumps, and appetite will 
 do the rest. 
 
 FONDANT 
 
 Brown Sugar, flavored with strong Coffee and 
 cooked with a pinch of cream of tartar, makes a 
 delicious fondant, which every home candy-maker 
 should know about during the white sugar short- 
 age. 
 
 COFFEE FONDANT 
 
 Three-quarters cupful very strong, hot Coffee, 
 2M» cupfuls brown sugar, % teaspoonful cream of 
 tartar. 
 
 Combine the three ingredients in a very smooth, 
 clean saucepan and stir over a slow heat until 
 they are dissolved; heat gradually to boiling point, 
 and boil without stirring until, when tried in cold 
 water, a little of the mixture will keep its shape 
 in the form of a soft ball. With a candy ther- 
 mometer the temperature will be 238° P. Pour 
 the fondant onto a slightly buttered, large platter; 
 let it stand for a few minutes to cool, until, when 
 pressed with finger, a dent is left on the surface 
 and yet there is no crust. When this occurs, 
 scrape the fondant together and work it with a 
 wooden spoon, or smooth stick, until it is creamy 
 in color and texture. When it becomes creamy, 
 begin to knead it, and Knead it until it is formed 
 into a smooth ball. Put it into a bowl, cover it 
 with a damp cloth and let it stand a day before 
 using. 
 
 If desired, this fondant may be flavored in dif- 
 
 88 
 
ferent ways, and the best time to add the flavoring 
 is just before it is kneaded. A few drops of va- 
 nilla may be put in one portion, a drop each of 
 clove and cinnamon extract in another portion, 
 and a little maple flavoring in another. The fon- 
 dant is then ready to use in any way desired. 
 
 WAYS TO USE COFFEE FONDANT 
 
 Shape the fondant into small, round balls; let 
 them stand a few hours in a cool place, and then 
 dip them in chocolate. To do this, cut the choco- 
 late in small pieces, using preferably confection- 
 ers' dipping chocolate, which may be purchased at 
 a caterer's. Put it in a double boiler, let it stand 
 over hot water until melted, then beat it fre- 
 quently until cooled, and it is of the consistency 
 of molasses. Dip in the centers, with a hat pin; 
 let them drain a moment, and then transfer them 
 to oiled paper, to become firm. 
 
 COFFEE FONDANT SLICES 
 
 . Flavor one-half the recipe for Coffee Fondant 
 with Vanilla, and work it into a roll about as wide 
 in diameter as a half dollar. Let this stand a few 
 hours, dip it in chocolate, roll in finely-chopped 
 walnuts, and when firm, cut it with a sharp knife 
 in slices a fourth-inch thick. 
 
 COFFEE BON-BONS 
 
 Shape the centers as directed in Ways to Use 
 Coffee Fondant, and dip them, after standing a few 
 hours, in plain or Raspberry Fondant, melted to 
 the consistency of very thick cream. 
 
 89 
 
COFFEE MAPLE CHOCOLATES 
 
 Combine equal parts of Coffee Fondant with 
 soft, grated maple sugar. Shape into small balls 
 and dip into chocolate, as previously directed, or 
 merely roll in finely-chopped, toasted almonds or 
 Brazil nuts. 
 
 QUICK COFFEE FONDANT 
 
 One tablespoonful butter, 2 tablespoonfuls very 
 strong Coffee, 1 tablespoonful cream or undiluted 
 evaporated milk, 1-3 teaspoonful vanilla extract, 
 soft brown sugar to knead (from 2^2 to 3 cupfuls). 
 
 Cream the butter in a rather deep, medium-sized 
 bowl, and with a wooden spoon work in a little of 
 the sugar. Then gradually add the Coffee and 
 evaporated milk, mixed with the vanilla, alter- 
 nately with sufficient sugar to make the mixture 
 stiff enough to knead. Knead well, cover with a 
 damp cloth and let stand for a little while. Then 
 use in any recipe calling for Coffee Fondant. 
 
 COFFEE MARSHMALLOW FUDGE 
 
 One-half cupful very strong Coffee, 2 cupfuls 
 light- brown sugar, 1-3 tablespoonful butter or good 
 margarine, i/^ teaspoonful vanilla, Vs teaspoonful 
 cream of tartar, a few grains of salt, % cupful 
 fresh marshmallows cut in quarters. 
 
 Combine the sugar, cream of tartar, salt, butter 
 and coffee in a medium-sized saucepan and cook 
 without stirring over moderate heat until a soft 
 ball is formed when a little is tried in cold water. 
 A candy thermometer will register 238° F. Cool 
 slightly but do not let a crust form. Then add the 
 marshmallows and vanilla, beat until creamy and 
 pour into a buttered pan to cool, making a mixture 
 about a half-inch deep. Before it is entirely cold 
 cut it into squares. Chopped nut-meats may be 
 substituted for the marshmallows if desired. 
 
 90 
 
COFFEE COCOANUT PRALINES 
 
 Observe the proportions and directions for mak- 
 ing Coffee Marshmallow Fudge, but omit the 
 marshmallows. Just before removing the mixture 
 from the heat, add a cupful of shredded cocoanut. 
 When tepid, beat the mixture until creamy and 
 drop it by tablespoonfuls onto oiled paper, for 
 Pralines are always large. 
 
 COFFEE NUT PRALINES 
 
 Make according to the directions for Coffee 
 Cocoanut Pralines, substituting a cupful of chopped 
 walnut meats for the cocoanut. 
 
 CREAM COFFEE DROPS 
 
 One-half cupful very strong Coffee, 2 cupfuls 
 light-brown sugar, Vs teaspoonful cream of tartar, 
 a choice of vanilla, cinnamon and clove, or maple 
 flavoring. 
 
 Combine all the ingredients, except the flavor- 
 ing, in a^ medium-sized saucepan; stir over a slow 
 heat until dissolved, then do not stir any further, 
 but cook until a soft ball is formed when a little 
 of the mixture is tried in cold water — that is, 238° 
 F. by the candy thermometer. Cool until lukewarm, 
 flavor, beat until creamy, transfer to a small 
 pitcher and drop onto oiled paper, in amounts 
 large enough to form candies of the shape of an 
 ordinary cream peppermint. 
 
 COFFEE CHOCOLATE CARAMELS 
 
 One-third cupful very strong Coffee, 1-3 cupful 
 rich milk, 2-3 cupful molasses, 3 cupfuls brown 
 sugar, 3 squares (oz.) chocolate, 7 tablespoonfuls 
 butter, or half butter and half very good marga- 
 rine, ^2 teaspoonful vanilla, 1 cupful coarsely- 
 
 91 
 
chopped walnut or hickory nut-meats, pecans or 
 toasted, chopped Brazil nuts. 
 
 Combine all the ingredients, except the nut- 
 meats and vanilla, and boil them slowly until, 
 when a little is tried in cold water, a ball of cara- 
 mel texture is formed, 248° F. by the candy ther- 
 mometer. Flavor, stir in the nuts, beat a moment, 
 then pour into a good-sized bread pan, which has 
 been lined with wax paper. The niixture should 
 be an inch deep. When half cold, cut in squares. 
 Then transfer in the sheet to a bread board, cut 
 and wrap each one separately in waxed paper be- 
 fore packing. 
 
 n 
 
EARLY HISTORY AND MYTHICAL LEGENDS 
 OF THE TEA PLANT 
 
 The first discovery of the virtue of the beverage 
 obtained by the infusion of Tea-leaves in v^rater, is 
 hidden in the obscurity of ancient history. 
 
 One Chinese tradition gives the credit to some 
 Buddhist priests, who, unable to use the brackish 
 water near their temple, steeped in it the leaves 
 of a shrub growing in the vicinity, with the inten- 
 tion of correcting the unpleasant properties. The 
 experiment was so successful that they spread the 
 news among their neighbors and subsequently en- 
 gaged in the extensive cultivation of the plant. 
 
 Another Legend of the Origin of Tea. The 
 Chinese have a legend purporting to account for 
 the origin of Tea in China. Owing to the dense 
 population and poor sanitation, frequent epidemics 
 of typhoid and other fevers were prevalent and 
 nearly wiped out at times large sections of the 
 population. The wise men of the empire were 
 called together to suggest a remedy. They found 
 that the drinking waters were polluted, but by 
 boiling these waters before drinking practically all 
 danger was removed. An edict went forth that, 
 throughout the kingdom, the people should boil 
 their water 'before drinking. By strict obedience 
 to this law the epidemic and fevers ceased. But 
 the people grew careless, the law was violated, 
 more and more, and again the disorders appeared. 
 The wise men were again called to overcome the 
 difficulty. They «were sent in search of an herb 
 whose delicious flavors could only be brought out 
 by boiling water, and the search resulted In the 
 discovery of the now famous Tea plant. 
 
 As mythology plays its part in the earliest rec- 
 ords of Tea, the fable in this case is credited to a 
 Dutch traveler named Koempfer, who relates how 
 a Buddhist monk came to China from India some- 
 time during the fifth century of the Christian era, 
 and, vexed at having slumbered during a night of 
 
 93 
 
vigil and prayer, cut off his eyelids, casting them 
 on the ground, whence immediately sprang up two 
 Tea plants. 
 
 This legend has often been repeated in popular 
 works, as not only prefiguring the anti-somnolent 
 properties of the leaf, but as affording readdi- 
 tional evidence of the source and probable period 
 of introduction of the Tea plant into the Flowery 
 Kingdom. 
 
 In China, however, this legend seems altogether 
 unknown, while the plant itself has been known 
 there from remote ages. 
 
 Another record attributes its discovery, about 
 2737 B. C, to 'Chin Nung, a celebrated scholar and 
 philosopher, to whom nearly all agricultural and 
 medical knowledge is traced in China. 
 
 In replenishing a fire made of the branches of 
 the Tea plant, some of the leaves fell into the 
 vessel in which he (was boiling water for his even- 
 ing meal. The consumption of the beverage thus 
 formed, the first "Pot of Tea", proved so exhili- 
 rating in effect that he formed the habit of so 
 using the leaves. Later he imparted to others the 
 knowledge thus accidentally gained, and in a short 
 time it became the common property of the Em- 
 pire. 
 
 China is quite generally acknowledged as the 
 birth place of the Tea industry. Some writers 
 reason that the honor belongs to India or Japan, 
 but other authorities name the thirteenth century 
 as seeing the first use of Tea in the latter country. 
 
 Dr. Bretschneider is credited with having dis- 
 covered the earliest recorded mention of Tea in 
 literature, who, towards the latter end of the last 
 century was physician to the Russian legation at 
 Pekin. 
 
 The doctor probed deeply into ancient Chinese 
 literature, and discovered a reference to Tea in a 
 Chinese compilation^ known as the Pent Sao, 2700 
 B. C, while in a work dated 400 A. D. a full de- 
 scription of the plant and the present modes of 
 
 94 
 
infusion were found. Its antiquity in China is 
 practically undoubted, and the probability is that 
 its introduction into Japan took place at a later 
 period, but we can only surmise as to that. 
 
 What is known, however, is that the Tea plant 
 was found in 1824 or thereabouts, growing wild in 
 the forests of Assam, apparently in an indigenous 
 state. These forests clothe the hills which form 
 the boundary between India and China, and it is 
 fair assumption that the plant or its seed was 
 thousands of years ago exported from India into 
 China, where it became an important industry. 
 
 Tea was brought to Europe in the Sixteenth 
 Century, the Dutch East India Company intro- 
 ducing it into Holland. 
 
 The first authenticated mention of it in England 
 is in the year 16'57, at which time it was considered 
 a very rare luxury. It was known as early as 
 1680 in the American Colonies, selling at from five 
 to six dollars a pound for the cheapest varieties. 
 
 Its use was for many years widely condemned 
 by writers and preachers, who attributed to it nu- 
 merous qualities inimical to health, morals and the 
 public order, but that attitude was long ago rele- 
 gated to oblivion, and the enormous quantity now 
 consumed places it among the most important of 
 food articles. 
 
 Its title comes from "Te", the Chinese name for 
 Tea in Amoy dialect. In other parts of China it is 
 known as Ta, Cha, Dzo, etc. 
 
 In its wild state the Tea plant is a small ever- 
 green tree, of which there are several varieties, 
 and similar in appearance to the Camellia, to 
 which it is botanically related. The Assam type 
 in its wild state grows to a height of fifteen to 
 thirty feet, with numerous branches and a wealth 
 of lance-like leaves, which often attain a length of 
 six to nine inches. 
 
 The China varieties and the numerous crosses 
 are more dwarf in habit and of smaller leaf. The 
 
 95 
 
rather large, white, fragrant flowers grow singly, 
 or two together, in the axils of the leave?:. 
 . Under cultivation, the shrubs are not allowed to 
 exceed three to five feet in height, and flowering 
 is permitted only for seed purposes. 
 
 If the Tea bush was not continually plucked 
 over, for its leaves, it would grow into a tall, 
 willowy tree. The bushes are frequently allowed 
 to grow in this way (without plucking), as seed- 
 bearing plants, and it is from the unplucked trees 
 that the seed is gathered. The fiowers first ap- 
 pear, then the pod containing the seeds, which' 
 are three small nuts like filberts, and have an oily, 
 bitter taste, and usually ripen in October. 
 
 Before planting, the seed is tested to find out its 
 germinating qualities, and then placed in seed 
 beds, which are carefully shaded from the fierce 
 heat of the Sun, until the young plant is old enough 
 to be transplanted into the field, garden, or planta- 
 tion. At this time the plant is usually ten to 
 twelve inches high, and when it is about four 
 years old it bears its first crop, locality, soil, etc,, 
 being the determining factor to some extent, but a 
 year or more before the crop is expected, it is cut 
 down to a foot or less. It is again cut down to 
 about two feet three months before gathering, the 
 object being to make the bush spread and to stim- 
 ulate the fullest possible growth of the "flushes" 
 or young shoots which furnish the tender, succu- 
 •lent new leaves desired. 
 
 After this operation, it is plucked regularly for 
 eighteen months to two years, the bushes yielding 
 new "flushes" at frequent intervals, when it is 
 again pruned back to allow it to rest. 
 
 With proper care and under favoroble conditions 
 its bearing life is practically unlimited. 
 
 The whole process of cultivation is to insure 
 regular, frequent and vigorous "flushing". From 
 the upper part or flat surface of the bush there 
 continually sprout out long, green, tender shoots 
 bearing young leaves. The bud at the tip, and one, 
 
 96 
 
two or three leaves below it are nipped off by the 
 skillful fingers of a! coolie woman or child. (The 
 plucking is usually delegated to women and chil- 
 dren.) 
 
 When the bud and one leaf is taken, the pluck- 
 ing is termed "fine"; when two leaves are taken, 
 "medium", and when three, "coarse". 
 
 Medium plucking is generally practiced. The 
 foregoing system of plucking applies particularly 
 to Indian, Ceylon and Java Teas, and is practically 
 applicable to all other Tea plants. Only the shoots 
 mentioned above are gathered as a rule, and care 
 is taken to avoid damaging the leaf -bud in the 
 axil below the leaves taken, as that in its turn 
 soon develops into a new "flush". Of course, the 
 whole "flush" may be taken or only the choicer 
 upper part, according both to the size of the shoot 
 and the minimum grade leaf desired. 
 
 The rapidity and accuracy of the experienced 
 "picker" is almost incredible. 
 
 The young leaves of all varieties are very simi- 
 lar in general appearance when fresh plucked. The 
 larger leaves differ considerably in general propor- 
 tions, but they always retain the characteristic 
 construction which renders it easy to detect the 
 addition of leaves from other plants. 
 
 The quality of the Tea leaf before preparation 
 depends on: (1) The locality (even the poorest 
 product of an upland garden is often choicer than 
 the best low-lying garden) ; (2) soil composition 
 (minerals contained for this play an important 
 part in determining flavor) ; (3) selection of the 
 leaves (by including some of the older leaves the 
 crop may be greatly increased, but the grade is 
 correspondingly lowered) ; and (4) the judgment 
 exercised in the time of plucking. 
 
 The weather also exerts a great influence. When 
 the rain falls equably and a bright sun appears 
 after heavy showers, the plants become rich with 
 new shoots, and the leaves bright green, elastic in 
 texture and rich in flavor. 
 
 97 
 
When too much rain falls at one time, shoots 
 and leaves became hardenedi and less flexible. If 
 there is too little moisture, they become stunted 
 and sapless. 
 
 In Ceylon, where there is no Winter, the picking 
 takes place every eight to ten days all the year 
 round, but in China and Japan there are four prin- 
 cipal harvest periods. 
 
 The earliest buddings, pale-green and very deli- 
 cate, are gathered in the beginning of April, and 
 are termed "first-picking. In China, these, as a 
 Irule, realize high prices and are consumed chiefly 
 by the wealthy classes in China and Russia, very 
 little reaching other markets. 
 
 The first general gathering commences in May, 
 and it is from this collection that we receive the 
 finest China Tea of commerce, known to the trade 
 as "first crop tea". Then follows the later picking, 
 known as ''second crop tea", and again a third and 
 fourth, the crop gradually becoming lower in qual- 
 ity as the season proceeds, a large percentage of 
 the late harvests being consumed locally and made 
 into "Brick Tea". 
 
 All kinds of Tea comes from the same shrubs, 
 the main difference between "Green" and "Black" 
 being that Black Tea is fermented and Green Tea 
 is not. The number of varieties of prepared Tea, 
 'both Green and Black, is due to the sorting of the 
 leaves into different sizes, and to local difference 
 in making and blending. 
 
 Prior to the sorting, the freshly-picked shoots 
 undergo four main processes, if Black Tea is re- 
 quired: withering, rolling, fermenting and firing. 
 For green Tea, fermenting is omitted. 
 
 The shoots for Black Tea are first spread on 
 shelves of wire or jute-hessian to ''wither", the 
 object being to allow the sap and other moisture 
 to evaporate until the leaf is soft and flaccid for 
 "twisting" in the rollers. The shelves are very 
 loosely woven, so that the air can pass through 
 them freely. 
 
 98 
 
The time required for this process varies widely, 
 sometimes twenty-four hours, occasionally much 
 longer. If the weather is damp, artificial heat is 
 generally employed. 
 
 For Green Tea, in order to avoid fermentation, 
 steaming for a short time is substituted for the 
 withering process. 
 
 The withering shoots are put through rollers, 
 which squeeze out any excess moisture and give 
 the "twist" which results in the characteristic 
 form of the prepared leaf. The appearance of the 
 leaf or **roir', as it is technically termed, when 
 taken out of the roller, is a mess of mashy lumps. 
 This is put through a roll-breaker, which breaks 
 up the lumps and sifts the detached leaves and 
 young stems through the wire mesh into cloths 
 ^placed below to receive them. 
 
 For the Green Tea, the product from the roll- 
 breaker immediately undergoes "firing". 
 
 For Black Tea, it is spread out in wooden frames, 
 covered with wet clothes and allowed to ferment 
 until the leaves attain a bright copper tint, the 
 color which they should have in the tea-pot after 
 infusion. Th^ extent to which fermentation is 
 permitted is determined by -the smell and appear- 
 ance of the leaf, points that require experienced 
 judgment, as too little means rawness and bitter- 
 ness, and any excess destroys much or all of the 
 flavor. 
 
 For "firing" the Tea is spread thinly upon wire 
 trays and placed in the siracco or desiccator, where 
 a current of hot air, from 190° to 240° F. passes 
 through it. It emerges thoroughly dry and brittle, 
 the finished Tea, requiring only sorting and pack- 
 ing to be ready for market. About 4200 pounds 
 of green shoots are required to make 1,000 pounds 
 of the prepared article. 
 
 After cooling over night, the Tea goes to the 
 sifter,, a machine with a series of sloping sieves, 
 one above the other. 
 ^ The sieves are shaken by engine or motor power, 
 
at a very high speed, and the tea falls through 
 from, one sieve to another, each sieve retaining a 
 different size, and emptying itself into a chest 
 through a spout at the low end. 
 
 The leaves and stems retained hy the top sieve: 
 ie., the largest, form the ''ordinary" grades of Tea. 
 Each size smaller is correspondingly choicer, ex- 
 cepting the last, known as "dust" or "dust and 
 sittings" or ''tannings", sold at low prices. 
 
 The second sieve retains (in Black Tea) Pekoe 
 or Pekoe Souchong, according to the crop or the 
 estate policy; the third, Pekoe or Orange Pekoe; 
 and the fourth, Orange Pekoe or Broken Orange 
 Pekoe, or "Flowery Pekoe" (so called because of 
 its cup quality). 
 
 The term "Pekoe" refers to the downy appear- 
 ance of the undersides and ends of the young 
 leaves, and "'Orange" to the color of the ends of 
 the still newer leaves and to the "tips" or leaf- 
 buds, which look like little chips of wood and are 
 also commercially classed as "Golden Tips". 
 
 The tips give the tea a good appearance and add 
 greatly to its strength and flavor. They are some- 
 times separated and offered as Pure Golden Tips, 
 selling in London for as high as fifty dollars a 
 pound. 
 
 When the sorting is done largely by hand, as in 
 China and Japan, the size grades are much more 
 numerous. 
 
 Caper is a Black Tea very much resembling the 
 green Gunpowder in shape. 
 
 In the Green Teas, the sorting produces the dif- 
 ferent sizes of Gunpowder, Young Hyson, etc. (See 
 China (Creep Teas.) 
 
 Uncolored Oreen Tea varies in tint from yellow 
 to greenish brown. The grey-green of the China 
 and Japan Teas imported prior to May 1, 1911, 
 was due to the addition of a minute quantity of 
 coloring powder during the firing. 
 
 The various grades, after a frequent supple- 
 
 100 
 
mentary picking o ve^^ by .ii&nd^ «r^ 4«y; iiy^ <iay, 
 stored away in their separate bins, until there is 
 enough to make what is known technically as a 
 **break", 5,000> pounds and upwards. 
 
 The next operation is bulking. The whole con- 
 tents of the bins of one grade are thrown together 
 and agitated by scoops or shovels until so thor- 
 oughly, mixed that each pound of Tea will be the 
 same as another in flavor and appearance. Finally 
 comes the packing in chests, cans and packages, 
 the Tea in the first two cases being shaken down 
 to make it lay close. The numerous processes of 
 preparation are responsible for the broken condi- 
 tion of most of the leaves in the product finally 
 marketed. 
 
 Most of the Tea dust which accumulates in man- 
 ufacture and as the result of transportation and 
 commercial handling, is of very fine quality. If pro^ 
 tected from contamination, and properly cared for 
 in other respects, it makes good liquor. 
 
 There is strong prejudice against its use in 
 America, partly, perhaps, because it lends itself 
 so readily to adulterations, but in England it com- 
 mands a ready sale, as, used in the correct pro- 
 portions, it improves the blend, adding to its 
 strength and pungency. In Tea-growing countries 
 it is a common practice to pulverize the leaves 
 by rubbing in the hand, dropping the powder into 
 the drinking cups in which it is steeped. 
 
 The foregoing description gives a general idea 
 of the method now employed in making India and 
 Ceylon Teas, both Black and Green, but the prin- 
 ciples used are those also used in the preparation 
 of China and Japan Teas, the chief difference 
 being that in the two latter countries machinery 
 playd a comparatively unimportant part. Much of 
 the firing is done in pots, bowls or baskets over 
 charcoal fires, and the twisting by placing the 
 leaves in bags and rolling them with the hands. 
 
 In China there la a strong contrast between the 
 busy season and the slack time which follows it. 
 
 101 
 
Irf^n-^Jp^^r^stifi^ article,- published prior to the 
 recent introduction of modern methods, the Foo- 
 chow Herald said: "A Tea -packing house at this 
 season presents a very different scene from that 
 of two months before. Then one found long lines 
 of catty boxes waiting to be soldered up. Now 
 none. Next, one found fat bags stacked up eight 
 or ten feet high, bursting with Tea that escaped 
 here and there through holes temporarily stopped 
 with bamboo leaves; the bottom of the bags 
 mostly stained from contact with wet flights of 
 mountain stairs upon which the exhausted coolies 
 had set them down on the passage. Now one 
 finds but empty chests, hundreds in number." 
 
 "Farther on, one came to the dozen long rows 
 of sifters facing each other, forty in a row, the 
 mesh of some taking a pencil, that of others re- 
 fusing a pencil point, sifting Tea leaf, rough and 
 bold, that, after a persuasive grasp or two of the 
 hand, broke and consented, after a few shakes of 
 the sieve, to be stripped of some of the sappy 
 leaf-edges and leaf-ends, and to appear below, the 
 even and uniform leaf which the Tea-drinker in- 
 sists he must have (plus the dust due to the per- 
 suading). The transformation in a rough leaf in 
 passing through the meshes of a coarse sieve, 
 with a gentle crush from the sifter's hand, en- 
 hances a rough, bold Tea very considerably in 
 value." 
 
 "In place of the rows of men then seen tilting 
 and jerking their sieves in a monotony only 
 broken by the contonese taskmaster's roll-call 
 twice a day before the general meal of fish and 
 rice, there is now to be seen only the bare floor 
 of hardened earth, piles of empty benches stacked 
 in a corner and the sieves of the twelve different 
 sizes used, each in its division in the three-story 
 stands." 
 
 "The dozen or score of fanning mills are still, 
 too. The Tea-leaf separated in these fanning mills 
 has been sold, and the mills will rest until another 
 
 102 
 
May shall bring courage back to the pale and dis- 
 pirited native teamen." 
 
 "There are stacked in this huge gc-down, a few 
 hundred packages of the native maker's brick Tea 
 wrapped in plaited bamboo strips, bound in half 
 bamboo and triply rattaned. Aside here, its manu- 
 facture still continues. The Chinese upper mill- 
 stone is being turned upon the nether by a China- 
 man (Who is grinding Tea seeds left by a fanning 
 mill, and in these sycee-boxes sharp spades are 
 falling upon the stems, chopping them fine enough 
 to go into the stemmy, dusty mixture to which the 
 seed dust gives the strength, while the chapped 
 stems vouch for its being Tea." 
 
 "In the firing house are the four Chinese rice 
 kettles, two feet across the mouth, which, when 
 in use, set obliquely upon edge, turn the Tea back 
 in a shower over the hand of the stirrer, a wood 
 fire being kept up in the brick work underneath." 
 
 "Fire holes also, scores in number, follow in 
 rows the walls of the firing house, in each an iron 
 charcoal, pan. Over each of these fires is a huge 
 hourglass-shaped basket-hood or muffler that shuts 
 in all the heat of each fire to but one outlet, that 
 through the Tea sieve which chokes the throat of 
 each basket. In these baskets is dried the Tea 
 that comes in from the hills, wet or flat from 
 constant downpour and from the first fermenta- 
 tion of the leaf." 
 
 "Here, too, on the floor above, the benches are 
 empty, the benches where girls and women came 
 to sort the rough stems from the leaf, getting half 
 a cent for removing them from the two catties of 
 Tea apportioned to them, in wound bamboo-woven 
 trays." 
 
 "The floor is now bare where we then saw the 
 ninghteh Tea brought to a uniform shade, by shak- 
 ing the bags with a few spoonfuls of lamp black, 
 then bulked upon the floor, to be strewn white as a 
 spring grave with the pure Muhli blossoms; the 
 blossoms in turn hurried under another avalanche 
 
 103 
 
of funeral Tea, and this again with blossoms, life 
 upon death, then both rudely mingled together 
 and put away in boxes for a night till the fra- 
 grance had been robbed by the dead Tea, the faded 
 flowers being finally thrown aside, spent and 
 worthless." 
 
 "Our round finished at the shed, where, out of 
 long sheets of lead, Chinese lads were glibly mak- 
 ing lead cases by molding them,*hatter like, upon 
 a box, and then running the soldering iron along 
 the edges. Other Chinamen, in their natal cos- 
 tume, were washing off the dust and sweat of the 
 day at a huge four-hogshead vat of hot water. 
 There, too, were piles of wood for the hot tea cop- 
 pers, crates of up river hardwood charcoal for the 
 firing pans and the firing baskets." 
 
 "We must leave without the sight we then had of 
 the mad dervish dance of two Chinese, who given 
 a dozen pounds of tea stems in a tray under their 
 sandals perform about the interior periphery of a 
 double shuffle, twist and grind that is cooler for 
 the spectator, the thermometer in the nineties, 
 than for the performers from whose bodies the 
 perspiration rolls into the tea stems below." 
 
 "The box factory is elsewhere. We enter on our 
 homeward way. It is in another old disused tea 
 hong, occupied by foreigners in the days when 
 money was made, tumbled down now and abandon- 
 ed to Chinese. Inside a few Chinese youths, eat- 
 ing a dollar's worth of rice per month, were rap- 
 idly gluing and dove-tailing together, by rough 
 wholesale strokes, boxes by the score. Few nails 
 are used, for these are hand-made and cannot be 
 afforded. What a bungling "mending" the mer- 
 chant pays for when these frail cases reach the 
 land of rough usage and coarse nails." 
 
 "There you saw a bit of thin teakwood; there 
 a bit of paper gaudily daubed with cardinal colors, 
 a stroke or two, side marries end, the gaudy paper 
 cover hides all joints, and the catty boxes, gay 
 
 104 
 
with bird, butterfly, dragon and phoenix, are en 
 route to be stared at in a far off grocer's window." 
 
 "Every season sees vast quantities of tea pass 
 through the sieves in hundreds of packing houses, 
 some in hamlets in the hills, some, as in Foochow, 
 in cities ten to fifty miles from the hills, much of it 
 brought in by women who have carried it up and 
 down the mountain pathways, twenty-five miles a 
 day, regardless of their bent backs, their only food 
 often a double handful of salt to bite before they 
 drink." 
 
 "Probably all tea leaving Foochow has been lifted 
 up and down as much as if it had been carried up 
 one side of the great pyramid and down the other 
 a score of times. Boatmen at river marts have 
 fought pitched battles for it, their livelihood de- 
 pending upon its transport, and plenty of their 
 men have been ready, to fight for the privilege of 
 carrying it, women, also under their loads, be- 
 hind their husbands." 
 
 The foregoing picture relates to tea making in 
 1874. Modern methods have already been describ- 
 ed. 
 
 CONSUMPTION AND PRINCIPAL VARIETIES 
 
 The consumption of Green Tea, twenty or thirty 
 years ago the standard variety, has to a consid- 
 erable extent given place to the taste for Black 
 Tea. 
 
 An equally important commercial change has 
 been the increase in favor of Ceylon and India 
 Teas, (also the better grades of Java Teas) at 
 the expense of the China and Japanese varieties. 
 Imports from the two last named countries have 
 been greatly reduced during the last few years. 
 
 When to this loss of trade from the United 
 States is coupled a still greater diminution in the 
 English market, where Ceylon and Indiai Teas, 
 particularly, are most popular. For after China 
 
 105 
 
and Japan, (and Australia) England is the world's 
 largest per-capita Tea consumer, the natural as- 
 sumption is that China and Japan must feel the 
 change of condition very severely. As a matter 
 of fact, the merchants of these countries are the 
 only material losers. 
 
 The greater part' of China Tea sold was, and is 
 produced by small planters who have never been 
 able to secure an adequate price for their leaves, 
 so when the demand for their tea fell off, many 
 of them planted more beans and potatoes, and 
 were just as well contented. 
 
 Japan has really fared better in the struggle, 
 and has succeeded China as the principal source 
 of the Green Tea consumed in this country, and 
 supplied until recently almost half of the total 
 quantity of all the Tea imported. Ceylon, India 
 and Java Tea importations are now recognized as 
 prime factors in the Tea business of America. 
 
 The titles most familiar to the public are, 
 Black, in various qualities and prices; English 
 Breakfast, generally a China Congou. (As a mat- 
 ter of fact, English Breakfast is a misnomer. Con- 
 gous and some blends are called or named English 
 Breakfast, which is simply an American trade 
 term unknown in England). 
 
 Ceylon, Indias and Javas are black; mixed are 
 blends of black and green leaves. Oolong: Green- 
 Black leaf or Semi-Black or Semi-Green. Green 
 Teasi: ^'Gunpowder," "Young Hyson" and other 
 sizes, and Japan in general usage applied to light 
 Japan Green Tea. 
 
 The more "Fancy" varieties include the Pekoe, 
 Orange Pekoe and scented types. 
 
 The titles popularly known, however, are en- 
 tirely inadequate to describe or classify the many 
 varieties of Tea on the market. They leave the 
 importer, wholesaler or retailer a wide range from 
 which to select varieties and blends to suit his 
 trade and environment. 
 
 Even the list following China, Japan, Ceylon, 
 
 10'6 
 
India, Java and other Teas is far from being ex- 
 haustive. It includes only the most important, 
 and most generally accepted, trade titles and dis- 
 tinctions. Accuracy is rendered the more difficult 
 by the lack of system in applying and retaining 
 titles. Perhaps the widest range in titles is found 
 in China Teas. They vary from very choice types, 
 which are too expensive to make importation 
 profitable, to large quantities of grades so poor and 
 so badly manipulated that their importation into 
 this country is not permitted. 
 
 Teas, as retailed, consist usually of several va- 
 rieties or grades "blended" to produce the most 
 pleasing results. A small quantity of an expen- 
 sive, highly fragrant tea being added to a plainer, 
 lower grade to improve its flavor; and over-strong 
 high grade being toned down by a lighter variety, 
 and so on indefinitely. 
 
 Note. See China and Japan Tea Articles. 
 
 CEYLON TEAS 
 
 The ordinary grades of Ceylon Tea are largely 
 marketed in this country as "Ceylon' Tea" of first 
 quality, second quantity, etc. 
 
 A fuller division is into the following principal 
 varieties, each subject to sub-division* into sev- 
 eral grades. 
 
 The best qualities are grown at high altitudes, 
 the higher the better. 
 
 In Ceylon some of the most exquisitely flavored 
 Tea comes from what is known as the Newera 
 Eliya (pronounced Nuralia) district, the altitude 
 of which averages about 6000 feet above sea level. 
 These Teas are purchased entirely for their aris- 
 tocratic flavor, as they carry but little strength. 
 
 Dimbula^ district with an altitude of about 4000 
 feet produces among the very best all-round Teas. 
 They are not so flavory as the Newera Eliya Teas, 
 but they possess a combination of flavor, strength 
 
 107 
 
and keeping qualities, which no other district in 
 Ceylon equals. 
 
 "Broken Orange" Pekos or Flowery Pekoe," the 
 very finest variety; the smallest and choicest 
 young leaves from the top of the bush and a large 
 proportion of golden tips, and produces a strong, 
 powerful liquor. 
 
 This grade is not generally marketed here be- 
 cause the United States laws prohibit the entry of 
 any Tea containing more than a certain percent- 
 age of broken leaf that will pass through a certain 
 designated sieve. As Broken Orange Pekoe is al- 
 ways small in leaf and contains a considerable 
 proportion of still smaller tea, it must be very 
 carefully screened if it is to pass the test, and the 
 loss and difficulty thus involved, prevent all but 
 the very largest importers from attempting it. 
 The intent of the act when passed was to guard 
 the public against inferior and unclean grades, 
 but it has also resulted in keeping out some very 
 choice types. 
 
 Orange Pekoe: Similar to Broken Orange Pe- 
 kos, but the leaves are larger and there is a small- 
 er percentage of tips of good appearance and quite 
 free from small leaf or dust; the liquor is clean 
 and fragrant and flavory, but not so powerful nor 
 so aristocratic a type as the former. 
 
 Pekoe: The leaf is slender, whitish and satiny. 
 The liquor is dark-reddish, but bright and fragrant. 
 
 The word Pekoe comes from the Chinese '*Pak- 
 Ho" meaning "Silver^Halr." In the old China va- 
 riety of Tea, the bud-leaf and the end of the first 
 leaf, produced when manufactured, a tip of silver 
 color and of a hairy appearance, hence the Chi- 
 nese called it "Pak-Ho." 
 
 This is the standard grade of Ceylon, also India 
 and Java Tea used in America, and usually desig- 
 nates a good medium Tea supplying good leaf and 
 liquor. 
 
 Broken Pekoe means just that, a Pekoe: leaf 
 
 108 
 
slender, whitish, satiny; broken, hence Broken 
 Pekoe. This cups very much like Pekoe. 
 
 Pekoe Souchong and Souchong constituting the 
 bulk of the Ceylon Teas of general consumption, 
 blended frequently with Pekoe. The leaf is larger 
 and coarser than the preceding varieties, but give 
 a rich and pleasant liquor. 
 
 It is the black varieties of Ceylons that have 
 made for popularity. However, some Green Ceylon 
 is also prepared under titles, corresponding to 
 those of China Green. 
 
 Ceylon Teas are further divided by shippers 
 into "low" and ''high" grown, those from low 
 ground and those from higher altitudes. The lat- 
 ter are much superior. 
 
 INDIA TEAS 
 
 The greater part of the India product is of the 
 Black Tea, the best qualities generally coming 
 from the Darjeeling and Assam districts. The 
 leaf is ordinarily a gray-black, aijd is, in the best 
 grades, golden tipped. The liquor is strong and 
 pleasantly pungent. 
 
 Darjelling: The finest and most delicately fla- 
 vored of the India Teas. It is grown chiefly in the 
 Himalaya Mountains, India, at an elevation rang- 
 ing from 2500' to 6'5O0 feet. The leaf varies from 
 the small, very tippy (Broken Orange Pekoe) to 
 the coarse (Pekoe Souchong). 
 
 The first "flush" does not develop the special 
 flavor of the iDarjeeling. The second ''flush", how- 
 ever, brings out this predominant characteristic, 
 full, rich, flavor, and good keeping qualities. 
 
 Darjeeling "second flush" aid "Autumnal" 
 growths are generally recognized as the finest the 
 world produces, although equally as good Teas may 
 be had in Calcutta, the supply is, however, rather 
 limited. 
 
 There is no class of Tea in the world that brings 
 
 109 
 
as high a price on an average, on the London mar- 
 ket particularly. 
 
 Terai Teas: An India Tea but little known in 
 Apierica. It is very black in color, flat and irregu- 
 lar. Its decidedly fine cup quality makes it valu- 
 able for blending, it is of pronounced Darjeeling 
 flavor. Terais are grown in Northern India, in the 
 Terai district. 
 
 lAssams: One of the high grade India Teas 
 grown in the Province of Assam in North-east 
 British India. It has a hard flinty, well made leaf 
 of a dark greyish black color. In most cases car- 
 ries plenty of Golden Tip and draws a full rich 
 color liquor with a great deal of strength and 
 pungency. 
 
 Assams in character are noted for their strength, 
 fullnes and richness of liquor. 
 
 Dooars: A variety of Tea grown in the Dooar 
 district, British India. This Tea has a soft mellow 
 liquor, possesses strength, and a rich flavory cup 
 quality. Dooars have not the style of the Assams 
 in apearance, but are much sought after, and 
 used largely in blending. 
 
 Travancores: Teas grown in the Province of 
 Travancore, Southern India. This Tea very much 
 resembles Ceylon Tea in appearance and charac- 
 ter. It is a flavory Tea in the cup, with good 
 strength, but is not very stylish in the leaf. As a 
 rule, however, the better Travancores grown at an 
 altitude of 5000 to 600-0 feet naturally possess 
 beautiful cup quality and command good prices. 
 
 In many instances it is, indeed, difficult for even 
 an expert judge of tea, to distinguish some of them 
 from the high grown Ceylon Teas. 
 
 Owing to the geographical position, Teas from 
 this district are marketed in Colombo, though the 
 finer Travancores are shipped to London, and if 
 not sold before reaching port, are sold at the Lon- 
 don auctions. 
 
 Shy let Teas: A variety of Tea grown in the 
 Shylet district, Assam, India. In style of leaf they 
 
 no 
 
very much resemble the Assams and Dooars. In 
 the cup, however, they fall far short of either, 
 for they lack strength, point and flavor, and usual- 
 ly produce a dull heavy liquor, Some of the Shy^ 
 lets, however, show a rich heavy liquor. These 
 are frequently used in blends as a filler. 
 
 Cachar: The most common type, and is pro- 
 duced in the Cachar district of Assam, has rather 
 an attractive leaf, but in the cup is flat, and lacks 
 the distinctive flavor of the Assams or Dooars. 
 However, Cochars are extensively marketed in 
 America. 
 
 JAVA TEA 
 
 Teas grown in the Island of Java are handled 
 very much the same as India and Ceylon Teas. 
 They are manufactured by machine process, and 
 are almost entirely of the black variety. 
 
 These are graded into Broken Orange Pekoe, 
 Orange Pekoe, No. 1 and No. 2 Pekoe, Broken Pe- 
 koe, Pekoe Souchong and Souchong, Fannings and 
 Dust. As in the case of Ceylons, they are known 
 by the names of the gardens producing them. 
 
 Java Teas are further classified into Assam 
 Javas, and China Javas. The former being raised 
 from plants raised from Assam Tea seed, and the 
 latter grown from plants raised from China Tea 
 seed. 
 
 Assam Javas are in cup characteristic very 
 much like the milder growths of Indias, while the 
 China Javas show in the liquor the characteristics 
 of the China Tea, both in developing the lighter 
 color and in the flavor. 
 
 India Ceylon and Java Teas are graded and 
 styled practically the same, as follows: 
 
 111 
 
6RADE STYLES 
 
 Flowery Orange Pekoe . . Tiippy, well made, wiry. 
 
 Flowery Broken Orange 
 
 Pekoe Tippy, even, clean, wiry. 
 
 Broken Orange Pekoe . . . Small, leafy, clean, brok- 
 en (sometimes tippy). 
 
 Broken Pekoe Small miake, leafy, clean, 
 
 even. 
 
 Orange Pekoe Wiry, usually hard, clean, 
 
 (tippy). 
 
 Pekoe .^ Boldish, black, well roll- 
 ed, clean. 
 
 Flowery Pekoe Few tips, boldish, black, 
 
 clean. 
 
 Pekoe No. 2 Short, black, even, clean. 
 
 Souchong Coarse, black, open (loose 
 
 roll), clean. 
 
 Pekoe Souchong Black, bold, clean. 
 
 Broken Pekoe Souchong 
 or 
 
 BTX)ken Souchong Short, black, broken. 
 
 Pekoe Fannings Even, clean, small, flakey. 
 
 Fannings Small, flakey. 
 
 Dust Powdery. 
 
 Teas manufactured on all estates in these coun- 
 tries are graded in this manner. The grades do 
 not indicate the cup quality of the Tea. The brok- 
 en leaf makes a more syrupy or deeper liquoring 
 cup of Tea than the wiry, hard-rolled, unbroken 
 leaf, just as the ground Coffee makes a cup differ- 
 ent to that made from the whole bean. The use 
 of the broken leaf is more economical than the 
 wiry leaf, because you can get the same strength 
 of liquor with less leaf. 
 
 The English Tea drinking people know this, in 
 consequence, use principally "broken" as has been 
 stated. 
 
 CHINA TEAS 
 CHINA GREEN TEAS 
 
 The highest commercial types of "China Green 
 Teas" are Moyunes and Teenkais. Others of im- 
 portance are Hoochow, Fychow and Pingsuey. 
 
 Moyunes and Pingsueys were formerly princi^ 
 pally distinguished by the color of the leaf. Ping- 
 sueys imported into the United States before the 
 new law went into effect were a bright green, 
 and Moyunes a dull gray. The Moyunes still retain 
 
 112 
 
their appearance, while the Pingsueys still have 
 more the appearance of the Moyunes. Pingsueys 
 still lend themselves to a better roll and cleaner 
 apearance than the Moyunes, especially in the 
 medium and lower grades. 
 
 Pingsueys, with the one exception of the very 
 early teas, which are known as Hoochows, are 
 one of the most important China Green Teas. 
 However, they are made up largely for style, 
 and to catch the eye, and are not as desirable in 
 the cup as Moyunes. 
 
 The real distinction between Moyunes and Ping- 
 sueys is in the cup quality. The Moyunes have 
 more cup character, body and flavor than the 
 Pingsueys. However, Hoochows, (similar but a 
 finer variety than first crop Pingsueys) and first 
 crop Pingsueysi are quite delicate in the cup, and 
 far out-class the later Pingsueys, which become 
 quite metallic in the drink. 
 
 All "China Green Teas" are graded as Fancy, 
 Choice, Finest, Fine, Medium or Standard, as Nos. 
 1, 2, 3, 4 and 5. These are also sub-divided into: 
 Gunpowder, consisting of the Youngest and Small- 
 est leaves, roundish in appearance. 
 
 A rolled China made by sifting and hand rolling 
 until they assume a shotty appearance, and where 
 they are particularly fine, are frequently called 
 Pin-Head Gunpowder. (Gunpowder style is also 
 produced in the same manner of manipulation 
 to a limited extent from India and Ceylon green 
 Teas). 
 
 Imperial, like "Gunpowder" but larger, In three 
 grades, first, second and third. 
 
 Young Hyson divided into five grades, Extra, 
 First, Second, Third and "Cargo." The best grades 
 have long well-twisted leaf, varying in size. Hy- 
 son larger than Young Hyson and more loosely 
 twisted. In three grades, First, Second and Third. 
 
 Hyson is very similar to Young Hyson, only 
 made from a rougher, bolder leaf. 
 
 The average consumer regards Gunpowder, Hy- 
 
 113 
 
son, etc., as distinct qualities or varieties of 
 Green Tea. Correctly speaking, they are the titles 
 for particular sizes and shapes only. You may 
 have Gunpowder size of the- poorest or choicest. 
 
 Teenkais, Fychows and Wenchows are similar 
 in leaf and cup, but inferior in quality to Moyunes. 
 
 Teenkais: A Tea district of China, producing 
 rather attractive leafed Tea. The cup quality is 
 not generally as desirable as that coming from 
 the Moyune district. 
 
 Some Teenkais compare very favorably with 
 IVioyunes, but Fuchows and Wenchows are not as 
 a whole as agreeable a drink as the Hoochows, and 
 even first crop Pingsueys. 
 
 IVioyunes, Teenkais, Wenchows, Pingsueys and 
 Hoochows are graded: (1) common, (2) fair, 
 (3) good, (4) fine, (5) finest, (6) choice, (7) choic- 
 est; according to leaf and quality. 
 
 Country Greens: All China Greens other than 
 Hoochows and Pinksuey. 
 
 Quite generally speaking, the principal China 
 Green Teas as known to the trade are spoken of 
 as IVioyunes and Pingsueys. These are divided 
 into Gunpowder, Imperial, Young Hyson and Hy- 
 son, or Hyson Skin. As before stated, the differ- 
 ent names denote the style and make of the leaf. 
 
 Among other freaks in Tea is the Flowery 
 Pekoe, the highest priced Tea produced in China, 
 costing from 50c to $3.00 per pound, according to 
 grade. It is a product of Foochow, and in ap- 
 pearance is a mass of Pekoe Tips, nearly white 
 in color, and very light and fluffy. Only the term- 
 inal opening buds are plucked for this purpose. 
 The cup quality is very light and characterless 
 with almost no flavor, yet the Chinese who should 
 be (and are perhaps) the best judges of Tea, use 
 nearly all the better grades of the Flowery Pekoe 
 produced. 
 
 114 
 
CHINA BLACK TEAS 
 
 These consist of Oolongs (?) Congous (so-called 
 English Breakfast) and scented Teas. 
 
 Scented Orange Pekoe and Scented Caper: 
 These may be considered under one head, as they 
 are merely a separation by means of sifting out 
 the different sized and shaped leaves. The straight 
 or Young Hyson style leaf making the Orange 
 Pekoe, and the round Gunpowder style gives us 
 the Caper. 
 
 An ordinarily small leaf Foochow is used and 
 fired by the usual semi-fermented method. At 
 the end of the process, while the leaves are still 
 hot, they are spread out and covered with a layer 
 of Orange blossoms or Jessamine flowers, then 
 another layer of Tea is spread over that, and 
 the mass is allowed to stand until the flowers are 
 wilted, when the flavpr and aroma is absorbed by 
 the T€a. The remains of the flowers are then 
 sifted out and the Tea given another firing to re- 
 move the moisture absorbed from the flowers. It 
 is then packed in 20-pound lead-lined Boxes or 
 Chests, and is ready for shipment. The scent 
 thus imparted to the Tea will be retained for 
 years. 
 
 These Teas are used almost exclusively for 
 blending, and are very useful for giving an at- 
 tractive distinctive character to a blend difficult 
 for a competitor to match. Only 10 to 15 per 
 cent of Scented Tea is required to get a good 
 result. 
 
 Oolongs are frequently classified as Black Teas, 
 but they really constitute a separate type, for 
 they are not as thoroughly fermented before firing 
 as the general run of Black Teasv and therefore 
 hold part of the flavor and a little of the color of 
 Green Teas. 
 
 There are three recognized varieties, Foochow, 
 Formosa and Canton, (a scented China Orange 
 Pekoe Tea) but practically all of the supply im- 
 ported is of the first two. Formosa Oolong in 
 
 115 
 
the choice grades, have evenly-curled leaf with 
 a mixture of Pekoe tips; (2nd, 3rd and sometimes 
 4th leaf of the plant). It is very aromatic in 
 flavor, which is delicate and is easily the most fra- 
 grant of Teas, the higher grades possessing a 
 full, sweet bouquet, which is peculiarly charac- 
 teristic of Formosa Oolongs. 
 
 Ning Yong: A China Tea district from which 
 comes an Oolong Tea. 
 
 The various varieties of characters to be found 
 in Formosa Teas are so great that it is quite as 
 important to make a careful study of them as it 
 is to be able to grade and select for value. 
 
 There is a vast difference between a Formosa 
 made from a Spring Tea and made from a late 
 Summer Tea, almost as much as the difference 
 between a Congou and a Ceylon, or between a 
 Japan and^ a Young Hyson, and there are various 
 other reasons for vast difference, such as cNmatic 
 conditions, systems used in preparation, elevation, 
 etc., etc., that often makes such a radical change 
 in the cupping characteristics that, unless ex- 
 treme care is used, the buyer is very apt to have 
 some dissatisfied customers. 
 
 Early Spring or first-crop Spring Teas are very 
 thin and light in the cup, but in some localities 
 give excellent satisfaction as individual drinkers, 
 and are used extensively with flavory Ceylons in 
 blending. 
 
 Users of higher grades are particularly partial 
 to the early Summer Teas, as they carry good 
 body, handsome leaf and fine flavor. Teas picked 
 later in the Summer (July) are showier and more 
 tippy, and have a full, rich flavor. 
 
 You will find some of the medium grades in 
 the late Summer picking that produce such a 
 heavy liquor that a small proportion of Ceylon or 
 Congou blended in will make a most excellent 
 cup. 
 
 Usually the late Teas draw a heavy liquor, 
 however, occasionally, strange as it may seem, 
 
 U6 
 
you will pluck late Teas that have decidedly the 
 characteristics of an early picking, both in ap- 
 pearance of leaf and quality in the cup. 
 
 The Black small leaf is usually selected in 
 buying Choice Fancy Tea, as it in most cases 
 stands for a better quality than the extra tippy 
 leaf. What is sometimes termed the Jessamine 
 flavor in these Teas quite likely originates from 
 a slight reminder of the odor of Jessamine Flow- 
 ers, frequently discernable in the cup, and it is a 
 delicious cup too. 
 
 The lower grades are used principally for blend- 
 ing, and are good. Select your Teas for this pur- 
 pose without dust or stems, and as little broken 
 leaf as possible. 
 
 Formosa Teas are produced on the Island of 
 Formosa, and are made up into Oolong. Formosa 
 Tea being semi-fermented, has some of the char- 
 acteristics of Black Tea; with certain of the cup 
 qualities of the Green Tea, and therefore resem- 
 bles a blend of the two. Formosa Oolong is deli- 
 cate in flavor and fragrant. 
 
 Oolong is always a semi-fermented Tea that 
 has been allowed to wither in the process of 
 manufacture, and partially fermented. In this it 
 differs from the English Breakfast, or Congou 
 (Black) Teas, which are thoroughly fermented 
 before being fired. 
 
 Foochow Oolong is especially black in leaf, 
 and the liquor of the finer qualities is rich and 
 mellow, but without as much body as Formosa. 
 Ooolong, unlike any other variety of China Tea, 
 is better in the second crop, or what is known as 
 Summer Tea. The Autumn Tea has more merit 
 than the average thirds of other Teas. Some of 
 the first crops, however, are sweet in liquor and 
 have a pleasant aroma. In all, there are four or 
 five crops of Oolongs. 
 
 Oolongs are commercially graded as Fancy, 
 Choicest, Choice, Finest, Fine, Superior, Good, 
 Fair and Common. The bulk of China Black Teas 
 
 117 
 
imported into the United States is known as 
 Congou, (often called English Breakfast). 
 
 There are numerous grades, the highest of ex- 
 cellent cup quality, and their blending results in 
 a great many varieties of all styles and values, 
 among them numerous qualities of English Break- 
 fast, Black Te^ and Mixed Tea. 
 
 The principal commercial classifications are in- 
 to Choice New^Crop, Choicest, Choice, Finest, 
 Fine, Superior, Good, Fair and Common. By Nos. 
 1, 2, 3, 4, etc., and as Pekoe, Souchong, etc. 
 
 The leaf of the better qualities is greyish-black 
 and well twisted, and the liquor is rich in color 
 and pungently pleasant in flavor. Congous are 
 usually classed as North and South China Teas, 
 according to the districts from which they were 
 shipped. 
 
 The North China Congous have, as a whole, 
 more body than South Chinas. However, the bet- 
 ter grades of South China Pan Yongs possess a 
 good flavor and decided character. 
 
 Souchong: A corruption of the Chinese "Sian- 
 chung," meaning small plant. The old variety of 
 Lapsang Souchong was produced from a small 
 plant, and the growers invariably left this leaf 
 to develop considerably before plucking. Conse- 
 quently the Lapsang Souchong was always of a 
 larger leaf than the other varieties of China Tea. 
 
 Indian planters appropriated this name for their 
 largest leaf Teas; the first or smallest leaf was 
 called Orange Pekoe, the second leaf was called 
 Pekoe, the third was termed Pekoe Souchong, and 
 the fourth or largest leaf was called Souchong 
 These terms are today applied to certain grades of 
 India, Ceylon and Java Teas. 
 
 Souchongs: Term applied to certain large leaf 
 Black Teas from South China. The liquor of these 
 Teas is rich and syrupy. 'Some varieties have a 
 smoky flavor, liked by many tea drinkers. They 
 are seldom used in America, though very useful 
 
 118 
 
in fine China blends, giving them a distinctive 
 character. 
 
 North China Congous are usually of a dull grey- 
 color, and of small curley leaf. The cheaper the 
 grade the coarser the leaf as a rule. 
 
 iVIoning: A term which is applied to all North 
 China Teas. There are many varieties, among 
 them being NIngchow, Oonfa, Kintuck, Keemun, 
 Ichang, etc. 
 
 Keemun: A fine grade North China black leaf 
 Congou, of heavier body and not so stylish in ap- 
 pearance as the Ningchows. 
 
 The Ningchows and Keemun are the leading 
 North China Blacks. 
 
 KIntuck: A variety of North China black leaf 
 Congou. A flavory, full bodied, fine cupping Tea, 
 very similar to Keemun. ^ 
 
 Kaisow: A variety of South China Congou Tea; 
 generally low, medium grade and low priced. 
 
 South China Congous consist principally of Pan 
 Yongs, Paklins and Packlums. The most desir- 
 able of these are the Pan Yongs. The dry leaf 
 is* black and coarser than the average Ningchow, 
 but the leaf is generally good black, and the li- 
 quor delicate and flavory, of good body and char- 
 acter. 
 
 The Packlums are the most stylish in appear- 
 ance of all China Black Teas, the leaf being small, 
 evenly made and black. The better grades show 
 considerable white tips; they are handsome, but 
 lack body and character. 
 
 Packlin: A variety of South China black leaf 
 Congou Tea. It has a well made, small black 
 leaf. The liquor is dark red, but lacks character 
 and flavor. 
 
 Prominent among the fancy Teas are: Flowery 
 Pekoe: small, evenly folded, olive colored, gener- 
 ally scented, and carry a profusion of white vel- 
 vety tps. Orange Pekoe: small, black leaf, with 
 yellowish ends, generally scented. CResemble 
 Packlums in appearance). Pekoe: small, with 
 
 119 
 
whitish tips, generally scented. Powchong: (also 
 used as a general term for all China paper pack- 
 age Tea) rather rough, dull black leaf; a variety 
 of Teas, highly scented with the Jessamine flower, 
 manufactured mainly for consumption in China 
 and the Philippines. 
 
 Capers and Koolaws are also included in the 
 scented Teas. Capers are shaped like Gunpowder 
 or Japan Nibs, highly scented (Black) with a flav- 
 or similar to the Scented Orange Pekoe. 
 
 Scented Orange Pekoe: This is a variety of 
 China Souchong, and is a highly scented Tea. 
 Scented Teas are sometimes produced by sprays 
 of Orange or other blossoms by being placed over 
 the trays during the withering process. 
 
 The fragrance of scented Teas is not natural, 
 but is imparted from flowers, seeds or roots, such 
 as Jessamine, Gardina, etc. In some districts the 
 scenting material is added during the firing pro- 
 cess, and afterwards separated by sifting. The 
 method used generally is this: The scenting ma- 
 terial is pread over the top of the Tea after the 
 Tea is prepared and ready for packing, (one 
 pound of the leaves or blossoms heing the usual 
 proportion to each 100' pounds of Tea) and allow- 
 ed to remain on the chest at least a day, until 
 the Tea becomes thoroughly impregnated. 
 
 Scented Teas, as a whole, possess very little 
 merit in the cup, being very light, without body 
 or character. They are used principally for blend- 
 ing Black Teas. It is far better not to use them 
 at all, as the natural flavor of Teas is best for 
 the consumer. If used, they should be used spar- 
 ingly, say one pound to twenty pounds. 
 
 Padraes: A South China Red Leaf Congou, 
 known by its small red leaf. 
 
 Saryunes: A large red leaf Tea grown in the 
 Saryune district of China. It produces a thick, 
 heavy liquor, and is not unpleasant in the cup. 
 
 120 
 
JAPAN TEAS 
 
 Tea is grown all over Japan. The system of 
 cultivation and method of preparation is very- 
 similar to that of the Chinese. 
 
 The first crop Teasi are best. The later the 
 crop, the less merit to the cup; however, some 
 of the later Teas have good characters. First 
 picking begins about the end of April or the be- 
 ginning of May; the second crop a month later, 
 and the third crop in July-August. The better 
 grades, notably those from the Yenshy district, 
 possess a delicate rich flavor, peculiar to them- 
 selves; the lower grades are metallic. 
 
 Japani Teas are made up to preserve their nat- 
 ural quality, without fermentation or withering, 
 and are therefore "Green Teas." They are, how- 
 ever, known as sun-dried, pan-fired, basket-fired 
 or porcelain-fired. 
 
 The best varieties of Japan Teas show a med- 
 ium-sized or small leaf, and a bright, clear, fra- 
 grant liquor, the latter in the Green Teas gener- 
 ally of a lighter color than the China Green. 
 
 Formerly Japan Teas were divided into Pan- 
 fired, Sun-dried and Basket-fired. Now they are 
 simply divided into Pan-fired and Basket-fired. 
 (Uncolored.) 
 
 Basket-fired: This is a term applied to Japan 
 Tea, which has been cured in iBaskets, by the fir- 
 ing process. The process consists of putting from 
 seven to ten pounds of Tea into an hour-glass, 
 shaped basket, having a sieve in the middle, by 
 means of which the Tea is held in the upper 
 part of the basket. 
 
 The basket is placed over a charcoal fire, and 
 during the course of firing, which lasts about an 
 hour, the basket is removed two or three times 
 and the Tea turned over, thus insuring even fir'ng. 
 
 Pan-fired: The term applies to Japan Tea. 
 As soon after the leaf is plucked it is steamed 
 and certain juices extracted, after which it is 
 
 121 
 
rolled on a paper on a sheet-iron pan, over a 
 charcoal fire to make it curl and to extract suf- 
 ficient moisture to keep it until it can be shipped 
 to the factory. 
 
 This process takes from forty minutes to one 
 hour, the work being done near the plantation. 
 Upon arrival at the factory the Tea is again plac- 
 ed in iron pans over charcoal fires and stirred 
 with iron arms operated by machinery until prop- 
 erly cured. This re-firing takes from a half to 
 one hour, according to the "toast" required. 
 
 tPorcela in-fired: Japan Tea, which has been 
 fired in a similar manner to "Pan-fired,"' except 
 that it is not rolled and manipulated to such an 
 extent. It is consequently rougher in appearance 
 than *'Pan-fired," but there is less in weight by 
 breakage, and it is consequently cheaper. 
 
 The name has no particular significance. It 
 was aparently arbitrarily selected to make a dis- 
 tinction between this process and that of "Pan- 
 firing." 
 
 Pan-fireds and Basket-fireds are produced from 
 the same leaf, the only difference being in the 
 method of handling and firing. However, some 
 Teas are better adapted for Basket-fired than for 
 Pan-fired Teas. The leaf is fired in pans over 
 charcoal furnaces and prepared for export by 
 machinery. The color of Pan-fired Tea is an olive- 
 green. (Formerly light-green). 
 
 Basket-fired, as the name would indicate, is a 
 Tea fired in baskets. Japan Tea in the raw state 
 looks like Basket-fired, but the Spiderieg varieties 
 are rolled and styled up to please the eye. 
 
 Spider Japan or Spiderieg: A long, thin, 
 handsome, straight leaf, tightly and stylishly 
 twisted Basket-fired Japan Tea. 
 
 ^'aturaI Leaf Teas: These Teas are all from 
 the KawanI, Hachioji and IVIomikirl districts, and 
 in appearance of leaf are between the Basket-fired 
 and Pan-fired. They are fired on paper trays in 
 
 122 
 
interior, and sometimes re-fired in pans or bas- 
 kets. 
 
 Spring Teas: Term applied to Japan and For- 
 mosa Teas, plucked in the April and IVIay season. 
 
 Summer Teas: Japan and Formosa Teas gath- 
 ered in the season from June to September. 
 
 Autumn Teas: Japan and Formosa Teas pluck- 
 ed in October or later. 
 
 Classification: Japan Teas are classed as Yok- 
 ohama Teas and Kobe Teas, according to the dis- 
 tricts from which they come. 
 
 Kdbe Teas: The Teas which are shipped from 
 the districts which constitute Kobe Teas are, as 
 a whole, inferior to the Yokohama Teas, but some 
 of the higher grades are very sweet in the cup. 
 
 Yokohama Teas: Teas shipped from Yokohama 
 are grown chiefly in two great districts, Suruga 
 and Yenshu. These two districts might again be 
 divided into several smaller ones, the Teas from 
 which vary slightly in general character. 
 
 Yenshu: In this district are produced the best 
 drinking Teas of Japan, notably in the Kawani 
 Hachioji and Momikiri sections. As a rule, the 
 Yenshus have not the style of the Suruga Teasi 
 The characteristics of this Tea is a straight, long, 
 flat leaf, the liquor being light in color, but rich 
 in flavor. 
 
 Suruga Teas: These are the stylish Teas of 
 Japan. From this district comes the greater pro- 
 portion of what are known as Spiderleg Teas. 
 They are also made up into Pan-fired. 
 
 Kawani: A small Tea district in Japan pro- 
 ducing a fine quality small leaf Tea. The liquor 
 is rich and rather light in color. 
 
 Momikiri: A comparatively new make of Japan 
 Tea, generally made of the high grades of Tea 
 from the Yenshu and Kawani districts. It has 
 rather a small clean leaf, and cups well. 
 
 Surugas are noted for the handsome and stylish 
 appearance of the prepared leaf. They lack the 
 
 123 
 
fine cupping quality of the Yenshu, the liquor be- 
 ing very often grassy in flavor. 
 
 After the firing process, the Tea is sifted and 
 graded to match the various standards to fill 
 import orders; on importation they are graded as: 
 Pan-fired: medium size, generally green, evenly 
 curled. Basket-fired: long, dark, well twisted. 
 
 iDust or Farmings. 
 
 ^^Nibs" is irregularly twisted, larger leaf, sifted 
 from the higher grades. 
 
 For commercial purposes, Japan Teas are grad 
 ed as Extra-Choice, Choicest Choice, Fine, Good, 
 Medium and Common. 
 
 They are marketed both as Japan Teas No. 1, 
 No. 2, No. 3, etc., and by conventional titles for 
 size and style. 
 
 BRICK TEA 
 
 This consists of Tea leaves and Tea leaf dust. 
 The term applies particularly to China Tea, Japan 
 Tea, however, is also made up into bricks. Brick 
 Tea is manufactured by using usually three 
 grades of Tea for each brick. The Tea dust is 
 moistened, usually by steam after having been 
 placed ii^ a mold. Each mold has a layer of the 
 fine or medium Tea at the top and bottom, with 
 a coarser grade in between. It is subjected to a 
 pressure applied by a power of from 15 to 25 tons 
 per square inch. 
 
 This pressure is applied to the whole brick, 
 it is only applied for a very short time when the 
 mould is locked with wedges and kept so for 
 two or three hours. 
 
 The bricks usually weigh about 214 pounds 
 each and measure about 1x6x7 inihes in size. 
 Three or four weeks are usually required for the 
 bricks to dry. 
 
 These are manufactured extensively for local 
 consumption in various sections, and for export 
 to Tibet, Siberia and elsewhere. 
 
 124 
 
The Tea Caddy is a small chest, box or canister 
 or a chest containing several canisters, for pack- 
 ing or holding Tea. Caddy was adapted from the 
 Chinese catty, a small measure of Tea, as a char- 
 acteristic title for Oriental Tea packages them- 
 selves. 
 
 Catty was derived from the Malay kati, a frac- 
 tion more than a pound. 
 
 Large quantities of imitation Oriental Caddies 
 are now made in this country, and used by Gro- 
 cers to re-pack Tea. They are shipped in "nests," 
 the smaller sizes fitting into the larger, thus giv- 
 ing a wide variety of sizes and occupying very 
 little space. 
 
 When used as a measure, thei word "caddy" 
 now generally signifies any package containing 
 less than a half chest. A Chinese chest is equiva- 
 lent to about 82 pounds or three-fifths of a Pecul 
 (about 139 pounds). 
 
 The India and Ceylon chests contain 90 to 140 
 pounds. 
 
 Chests: The original Tea package, usually 
 made of wood and lined with lead. Generally 
 speaking, while India and Ceylon Teas are packed 
 in "chests" and sometimes in "half chests," other 
 Teas come mostly in "half chests." 
 
 ''Chests" of India Tea weigh from 110 to 14iO 
 pounds; "Chests" of Ceylon Teas weigh from 90 
 to 110 pounds. 
 
 Tea Tablets: Consist of Tea Dust or finely 
 ground Tea pressed into cubes or squares for use 
 in the open by hunters, campers, etc. 
 
 Tile Tea: Is a kind of flat Brick Tea made In 
 China, exported via Keachti and distributed 
 throughout Siberia and Tartars. It is cooked with 
 milk, butter, salt and herbs, and eaten as a vege- 
 table. 
 
 Thick Teas: Indias, Ceylon, Javas, Congous 
 possessed of a full, strong, heavy Hquoring "draw." 
 Hence the application "Thick Tea." 
 
 125 
 
AMERICAN TEA 
 
 The Tea industry in the United States has 
 never reached noticeable proportions or received 
 much comment, although for perhaps a hundred 
 years various atempts have been made to estab- 
 lish tea-growing gardens in this country, these 
 have been successful in a very limited way. 
 
 Pinehurst, (Gardens) Summerville, South Caro 
 lina, has produced some Teas of excellent quality, 
 however, they have not met with any degree of 
 commercial success. The United States Depart- 
 ment of Agriculture has made extensive experi- 
 ments with India, Ceylon and China Tea seed, and 
 have the satisfaction of realizing a small but 
 growing output of Black and Green Teas each 
 year, but they have not yet entered into compe- 
 tition with the Asiatic crop. 
 
 Pinehurst Teas: Grown on a garden by that 
 name at Somervllle^ South Carolina. 
 
 TEA BLENDING 
 
 You have undoubtedly used the term "blend" 
 very frequently in referring to Tea. In fact, it 
 may very well be that you have "blended" Teas 
 among your own brands. This use of a blend is 
 very common, and two or more kinds of Tea 
 blended in a skillful manner result satisfactorily 
 to the consumer and profitably to the dealer. The 
 object is not, as the public may sometimes imag- 
 ine, to lower the quality, or reduce the cost to the 
 dealer, but simply to produce a better Tea, and 
 to obtain a finer and more desirable flavor than 
 that yielded by any single variety. Thus a Tea 
 may be suitable in flavor, but lacking in body, 
 or light in liquor. By adding to it one or two 
 other Teas possessing these qualities, the defect 
 is remedied and a full-flavored, heavy-bodied Tea 
 is produced, to the greater satisfaction of the 
 consumer. 
 
 a26 
 
The art of "blending" Tea has been highly de- 
 veloped in England, but the average Tea man in 
 the United States has only a superficial knowledge 
 of Tea blending. This is a most interesting and 
 important department of the Tea business, which 
 may well be studied and developed. 
 
 Unquestionably the highest branch of the Tea 
 business is in the blending of Teas. The mixing 
 of different types, styles and strength to produce 
 or acquire special results. 
 
 The successful blending of Teas can only be 
 accomplished through patience and close practical 
 application, and is usually brought about by the 
 use of proper proportions of light and heavy, aro- 
 matic and flat, and stylish and low grade Teas, 
 black for blacks and green for greens as a rule. 
 However, blends are sometimes built from a com- 
 bination of blacks and greens, All blends should, 
 first: Be constructed to produce a desirable cup; 
 second: Price is a prime factor. A good exam- 
 ple for instance is: A high type Darjeeling, a 
 full bodied Assam, and a good grade Dooar and a 
 Newera Eliya Ceylon proportioned possibly as fol- 
 lows: 20% Darjeeling, 30% Assam 20% Dooar, 
 30% Ceylon would construct a very desirable 
 blend. 
 
 To produce a better cup (which would, of course, 
 cost more money), increase the amount of Dar- 
 jeeling and Ceylon, reducing the amount of As- 
 sams correspondingly. 
 
 By proper manipulation, you should be enabled 
 to build a good blend with a wide range of price, 
 and still maintain excellent cup quality. Very 
 much the same result can be obtained by the use 
 of a good Ceylon type of Java Tea, leaving out the 
 Ceylon. This would, ordinarily, reduce the cost 
 considerably without reducing the cup quality to 
 any noticeable extent. 
 
 All types of Teas, fermented, unfermented, and 
 even semi-fermented, have to be handled in this 
 manner in blending to obtain the result sought. 
 
 127 
 
To produce a particularly pleasing blend is not 
 an easy matter, and to repeat it is still more diffi- 
 cult. In other words, a reproduction of a blend 
 and maintaining same year after year from the 
 crops of different seasons, requires experience, 
 extreme patience and honesty of purpose, concen- 
 tration, hard work, and last, but not least, a good 
 nose and a sensitive, delicate sense of taste. It is 
 most undesirable to establish a demand for a 
 particular flavor in your blend if you are not 
 capable of keeping it up. 
 
 The Tea business is really an art, and is very 
 fascinating, and profitable if successfully con- 
 ducted. 
 
 Tea, whether in package or bulk, should never 
 be kept in the sunlight, nor near any article or 
 articles of distinctive odors, and its place of stor- 
 age should always be perfectly dry and moderately 
 cooL 
 
 Tea naturally keeps fresh best in tight-fitting 
 canisters, and in sealed tin or lead packages, but 
 it deteriorates with age, no matter how it is 
 packed. 
 
 HELPFUL HINTS ON TASTING, TESTING, 
 BLENDING AND SELLING 
 
 An ideal location to be selected for a testing 
 room for either Teas or Coffees is one with an 
 unobstructed northern light. This affords the best 
 opportunity for close scrutiny — a light that shows 
 you the best and the worst. 
 
 In all Black and Senni-Black (semi-fermented) 
 Teas there is to be found a percentage of flaky 
 leaf, more or less yellow, which is very noticeable 
 in a strong light, and might be readily overlooked 
 under less favorable conditions. This is an in- 
 ferior leaf, and not only affects the style, but is 
 good evidence (except in Japan Teas) that an in- 
 
 128 
 
ferior quality has been added. This would have 
 a tendency, of course, to lessen the value of the 
 Tea. In consequence, the utmost care should be 
 used to ascertain to just what extent these leaves 
 have been introduced. 
 
 In testing blends or blended Teas, it is always 
 well to taste from se\'eral drawings, in order to 
 determine the thoroughness of the mixing. Should 
 there be a pronounced difference in the cup of the 
 different ''draws" you will readily understand 
 that, while your blend may be all right, your vari- 
 ous types are not properly, or evenly, mixed. 
 
 A small, hard, well-rolled, uniform leaf is usually 
 accepted for style, but without a good light, one is 
 quite apt to misjudge the size, and texture, par- 
 ticularly if the Tea is highly colored, in which 
 case color and polish might prove deceptive and 
 cause the important qualities, such as make, hard- 
 ness and uniformity to be overlooked. 
 
 Frequently the best "drawings" from Black Teas 
 are from those that show no tips whatever, al- 
 though many buyers are prone to take them into 
 serious consideration. There is no question but 
 what a small, black, hard, well-twisted, uniform- 
 leafed Formosa is superior to a coarse, uneven 
 leaf with any amount of tips. The same may be 
 said of the choicest Darjeeling, for those sold at 
 the fanciest prices are of the classy black leaf. 
 
 In testing for cup quality, a counter or table, or 
 even a bench of convenient height may be used. 
 The dry tea leaves are weighed out and placed in 
 cups or small china pots, each holding one cup of 
 Tea. Fresh boiling water is then poured on. Some 
 then cover the cups with a saucer or the pots with 
 a lid, and let stand for five minutes; others do 
 not cover but begin at once to use the nose, and 
 as; soon as the liquor is "up", tasting begins. 
 
 The infused leaf is usually removed, however. 
 The inspection and comparison of the infused and 
 dry leaves may be conducted very intelligently by 
 lifting the infused leaf in the spoon. 
 
 129 
 
An expert can, of course, get more information 
 from a minute examination of the infused leaf 
 tlian thei beginner. E. O., he can take a Congou 
 (said to be one of the most difficult Teas to grade 
 correctly) and not only get a good idea of the 
 grade, but can tell positively whether it is new 
 or old-crop Tea, and even if it is first or second- 
 crop, and frequently assure himself just what 
 district the Tea is from. The choice and pref- 
 erence in Congous is usually given the Teas 
 of bright, copper-colored, infused leaf over the 
 dull and darker shades. The same is true in all 
 black or semi-fermented Teas, and to some extent 
 all kinds of Teas. 
 
 In testing Tea (or Coffee) your sight is used 
 largely to keep you from wasting time; your sense 
 of taste and smell are of the utmost importance. 
 
 Your sight will show you the difference in ap- 
 pearance of liquor, say between the China and 
 Indian Tea, or China and Java Teas. 
 
 Your sight will also show you the difference 
 between the infused and the dry leaf, and will 
 teach you what to look for in testing. The in- 
 fused leaf of a good Tea should be a rich yellow 
 or "old gold", while the poorer Tea leaf infused 
 is usually dark and dull. 
 
 Your taste will show you the decided difference 
 between, say, the flavor of an India Tea and that 
 of a China Tea. Taste the Tea (hot) by sipping 
 from a dessert spoon, letting it rest on the tongue 
 for an instant, then spitting it out. (Do not swal- 
 low Tea or Coffee in your regular testing work.) 
 
 Your taste (with some practice) will teach you 
 the difference in liquors from Indian, Ceylon, 
 Javas, etc. 
 
 Always cleanse the mouth well before tasting. 
 Rinsei with water and soda, or take a bite or two 
 of apple, or a slice of lemon. 
 
 Your sense of smell used in conjunction with 
 your sense of taste helps you to distinguish the 
 Aroma, and more fully appreciate the flavor, and 
 
 ISO 
 
combined add much to the important factors of 
 memory and recognition. 
 
 You can not know Teas (nor Coffees) without 
 studying, testing them along the lines of tasting, 
 but by constant sight, taste, and smell you can 
 become an expert. 
 
 TEA ANALYSIS, AND ITS USE AS A BEVERAGE 
 
 The most important components of the Tea-leaf 
 are theine (the chief stimulating principle), 2^% 
 to 31/4 9r; second, the oil and resinous ingredients, 
 which furnish the flavor and aroma of the liquid; 
 third, the gummy substances and the tannin, which 
 give it "body" and strength. There is in addition 
 a small quantity of essential oil, which slightly 
 increases its stimulating properties. 
 
 Tea also carries, according to chemical analysis. 
 40% to 60% protein, cellulose, fibre, etc., but 
 nearly all of this is found in the Tea leaves left 
 after pouring off the liquid. The greater part of 
 the tannin (from 12% to 18%) also becomes a 
 part of the residue, assuming, of course, that the 
 Tea is made fresh, as it should be. 
 
 To obtain the best results, fresh boiling water 
 must be used,; the pot must be kept hot (but not 
 boiling), for from three to five minutes after pour- 
 ing the water on the leaves; the Tea should not 
 stand longer than five minutes before drinking. 
 
 If) the water used lis not fresh, that is, if it has 
 been standing long, or has ben previously boiled, 
 the Tea will be insiped and flat in flavor. 
 
 If the water is not boiling when poured on the 
 leaves, it will produce a rough, raw-tasting liquor. 
 An earthenware pot is better than a metal one. 
 Putting the dry Tea leaves into a pot well warmed 
 produces a better result than putting them in a 
 cold pot. 
 
 The fresh-brewed liquor, after four or five min- 
 utes' infusion, contains almost the total amount 
 
 131 
 
of Theine (identical with Caffeine in Coffee),, and 
 only enough tannin and associating components to 
 give it palatable strength. 
 
 If the liquid is allowed to stand on the leaves 
 longer than five minutes, the flavor will be in- 
 jured by the extra tannin produced; seven or eight 
 minutes, and the tannin not only detracts from the 
 flavor, but the liquor becomes pungent, acts as 
 an astringent, and in consequence becomes very 
 detrimental to digestion. The liquid can be saved, 
 however, if poured off the leaves into a fresh 
 china or earthenware vessel. 
 
 India, Ceylon and Java Teas are, as a rule, con- 
 siderably stronger than China and Japan. Indi- 
 vidual tastes differ also, hence the quantity of 
 leaves to be used must be judged entirely by the 
 requirements. 
 
 The water in some localities will make much 
 'better Tea (also Coffee) than water in other 
 places. It is claimed by some authorities that 
 soft water should be used when brewing the 
 more delicate types, and that where the water 
 contains lime or other mineral matter to excess, 
 stronger, coarser and heavier Tea leaves should be 
 used. 
 
 Again some experts assert that the "best Tea" 
 is the best everywhere. However, the experience 
 of the writer rather tends to varify the former 
 statement. 
 
 In making Iced Tea, use at least one-fourth more 
 leaves than for Tea to be served hot; use the same 
 care, and do not allow the liquor on the leaves 
 more than six or seven minutes; then pour off into 
 another vessel and allow to cool very slowly. It 
 should be made three hours before it is to be 
 served. This gives ample time to cool gradually. 
 Tea suddenly chillied, either by ice or refrigera- 
 tion, spoils the flavor beyond a doubt. 
 
 When ready to serve, add ice, sugar, lemon, etc., 
 according to taste. 
 
 132 
 
U. S. SHOULD DOUBLE ITS TEA 
 CONSUMPTION 
 
 Every man who depends upon the Tea business 
 for his livelihood must feel dissatisfied with him- 
 self whenever he considersi the deplorable fact 
 that we, in this prosperous country, consume only 
 one pound of Tea per capita yearly. With Austra- 
 lia using 9 pounds per capita, Great Britain 6 
 pounds, and Canada, just across the border, con- 
 suming over 4 pounds, all people with similar 
 habits and ideals and speaking the same lan- 
 guage, we certainly should be able to double our 
 present consumption. If we could do that the 
 business would be much more worth while for all 
 engaged in it. 
 
 TABLE OF THE PRINCIPAL KINDS OF TEAS 
 AND THE REPRESENTATIVE TEA-GROWING 
 DISTRICTS OF THE WORLD. 
 
 CHINA 
 
 China Greens (Shanghai) 
 
 Country Greens 
 
 Cup Qualities Grading for All Country 
 
 Moyunes (Nankin, Pak- Greens 
 
 heong, and Hyson Li- Moyunes: Fancy, Choice, 
 quored). Finest, Fine, Medium, 
 
 Teen Kais. Standard. 
 
 Fychows. Teen Kais: Fancy, Choice, 
 
 Soeyoens. Finest, Fine, Medium, 
 
 Wenchows. Standard. 
 
 Local Packs. Fyohows: (Smoky Teas 
 
 not admitted to the 
 United States). 
 Soeyoens. 
 Wenchows, and 
 Local Packs. 
 
 133 
 
Hoochows Ping Sueys. 
 Style or Make: 
 Pin Heads. 
 Exitra Gunpowder. 
 First Gunpowder. 
 Second Gunpowder. 
 Third Gunpowder. 
 First Pea Leaf. 
 Second Pea Leaf. 
 First Young Leaf. 
 First Young Hyson. 
 Second Young Hyson. 
 
 CHINA CONGOUS (Black) 
 (So-Called English Breakfast) 
 
 South China 
 (Red Leaf Congou) 
 
 Kaisow. 
 
 Cheong-lok. 
 
 Chick-iSowkai. 
 
 Ching-wo. 
 
 Saryune. 
 
 Soumoo. 
 
 Sin-Chune. 
 
 Suey-Kut. 
 
 Yung-How. 
 
 YuTig-'Tong. (Choice to 
 choicest, fine to finest, 
 good to superior, fair.) 
 
 Paklin. 
 
 Pak'lum. 
 
 Panyong. 
 
 North China 
 (Black Leaf Congous) 
 Moning. 
 Ning-chow. 
 Ke-mun. 
 Ichang. 
 Kin-tuk. 
 Confa. 
 Oonam. 
 Chun Sowkai. 
 Yung Low Tung. 
 Oopak. 
 Lildng. 
 Kutoan. 
 Ho -How. 
 Sunntan. 
 
 Other Congous 
 Campoi. 
 Canton. 
 Hoyune. 
 Padrae. 
 Pekoe. 
 Pouchong. 
 Qui- fa. 
 Tayshan. 
 
 ■Souchongs 
 
 OSeldom used in America) 
 
 Canton. (New Make or 
 Macaos.) 
 
 Lapsing. (Foochow-Lou- 
 chong.) 
 
 Oolong-iSouchong. 
 
 Padrae. 
 
 Pekoe. 
 
 Tenmow-quipf-n. OChoicest, 
 extra fine to finest, su- 
 perior to fine, common 
 to fair.) 
 
 Panyong. 
 
 Scented Teas 
 
 Capers. 
 Pekoes. 
 Powc hongs (Foochows, 
 
 Cantons, Macaos). 
 Pekoes: Pekoe, Orange 
 
 Pekoe, Flowery Pekoe, 
 
 Hung-muey. 
 Pouchongs: Pouchong, 
 
 Pouchong- Pekoe, 
 
 134 
 
Padra-Pouchong. 
 "Canton Scented. 
 
 ("^Congee.") 
 Macao. 
 
 China Oolong (Black) 
 Amoy: Kokews, Mohea, 
 
 Ningyong, Ankois, Bo- 
 
 hea. 
 Foochow: Saryune, String 
 
 Teas. (Choicest to 
 
 Choice, Finest, Fine, 
 
 'Superior, Good, Fair.) 
 Brands "Chops": Tong- 
 
 mow, Tong-lee, Tong- 
 
 shinig, Chun-fa, 'Shun- 
 
 fat, iSun-kee, 
 Cum -wo and 
 kut. 
 
 Suey Kut, 
 
 Ching Wo. 
 
 Tycon. 
 
 Panyong. 
 
 Padrae. 
 
 Pekoe- Oolong. 
 
 Various 
 
 Mandarin. 
 Compressed. 
 Fannings. 
 Dust. 
 
 Cheng- ke, 
 Cum-wo- 
 
 NDASIA 
 
 (India, Ceylon, Java) 
 
 Northern India 
 Districts 
 Assam. 
 Diarjeeling. 
 Dooars. 
 Punjab. 
 Dehra-Dun. 
 Kangra. 
 Kumaon. 
 Sylhet. 
 Caehar. 
 Madras. 
 Nilgirns. 
 Terai. 
 Ohittagong. 
 
 Travancore. (Southern 
 India.) 
 
 India Greens 
 Uncolored 
 Young Hyson. 
 
 (1st and 2nd.) 
 Hyson. (1st and 2nd.) 
 Fannings. 
 Dust. 
 Gradings: India (Black) 
 Broken Orange-Pekoe. 
 Orange -Pekoe. 
 iFlowery Orange- Pekoe. 
 Pekoe. 
 
 Pekoe- Souchong. 
 Souchong. 
 Fannings. 
 Dust. 
 
 India Greens 
 Colored 
 Gunpowder. (1st and 2nd.) 
 Imperial. (1st and 2nd.) 
 Young Hyson. 
 
 (1st and 2nd.) 
 Sow Mee. 
 Hyson. (1st and 2nd.) 
 
 135 
 
CEYLON 
 
 Black 
 
 Broken Onange Pekoe. 
 Orange Pekoe. 
 Flowery Orange Pekoe. 
 Pekoe (1st and 2nd,) 
 Broken Pekoe- 
 Pekoe iSouchong. 
 Broken Pekoe iSouchong. 
 Fannings. 
 Dust. 
 
 Green 
 
 Gunpowder. (1st and 2nd.) 
 Imperial. (1st €Lnd 2nd.) 
 Young Hyson. 
 
 (1st and 2nd.) 
 Hyson. (1st and 2nd.) 
 Dust and Siftings. (Choice 
 
 to Fancy, Fair to Good.) 
 
 JAVA 
 
 Black 
 
 Pekoe. 
 
 Pekoe- Souchong. 
 
 Congou. 
 
 Oolong. 
 
 Green 
 
 Imperial. 
 Hyson. 
 Young Hyson. 
 
 JAPAN AND FORMOSA 
 
 Japan 
 
 Pan- fired. 
 Sun-dried. 
 Basket-fired. 
 Porcelain -fired. 
 
 Gradlngs 
 Extra- choicest. 
 Choicest. 
 CTioice. 
 Finest. 
 Fine. 
 
 Good Medium. 
 Good Common. 
 Common. 
 
 ^ Formosa Oolong 
 
 (Tamsui) 
 
 Fancy, Choicest,. 
 Choice, Finest. 
 Fine, Fully tSuperior. 
 iSuperior, Fully Good. 
 Good Cargo, Fair. 
 Cargo, Common. 
 
 Leading Districts 
 Chap Ko Hoon. 
 Pai 'chie. 
 'Sinteam. 
 Chuitngka. 
 
 OTHER COUNTRIES 
 
 UNITED STATES 
 South Carolina 
 CPinehurst Tea Estate) 
 Souchong. 
 Oolong. 
 Sun-cured. 
 Shelter. 
 Green. 
 Compressed Tablets. 
 
 Natal Africa 
 Golden Pekoe. 
 Pekoe iSouchong. 
 Flowery Pekoe. 
 Souchong, and other 
 Chinese-named Blacks. 
 
 136' 
 
Note. — Divers China Teas included in this; list 
 are either too low-grade to be allowed entry to the 
 United States, or too expensive for export, conse- 
 quently unknown to the general trade. There are 
 also some couple of hundred or so plants here and 
 there about the Globe which are, or have been, 
 used locally for making "tea-like" infusions, as the 
 "Camomile Tea" of Germany^ the "Cowslip Tea" 
 of the British, the "Teamsters' Tea" of Arizona, 
 the "Revolution Tea" of New Jersey, the "Coffee- 
 leaf Tea" of Indasia, etc. There are estimated 
 to be some three thousand tea brands, blends, 
 trade-names, trade-marks, package-names, etc., in 
 the world. 
 
 WORTH REMEMBERING 
 
 It is well to bear in mind that all Tea is pro- 
 duced from the same shrub (or tree), conditions 
 being responsible for the various types: altitude, 
 country, soil, season, preparation, etc. 
 
 Theine: Is an alkaloidal substance found in 
 the Tea leaf, chemically identical with Caffeine 
 (of Coffee). The Theine content of Tea averages 
 2%. 
 
 Tea Taster: An expert judge of the cup quality 
 of the leaf; one who judges Tea by testing in the 
 cup and in the hand. 
 
 Gha Si (Chinese) : An American or English Tea 
 tester— the most important man in the "hong" 
 factory, field or garden. 
 
 Chop: A ''Chop o'Tea" is a collection of a num- 
 ber of lines of Tea under one brand name, and 
 may consist of one or many more of various 
 grades. 
 
 Line: A line of Tea consists of one grade in 
 a "Chop," usually about eighty "half chests," but 
 may be more or less. 
 
 String Teas: South China Tea made into Oolong. 
 
 137 
 
This Tea is always very carefully and heavily 
 fired, and has a heavy burnt flavor. 
 
 Broker: A Tea broker is one who negotiates 
 the sale of Tea from one dealer to another, for 
 the consideration of a brokerage from the seller. 
 The brokerage is usually 2% on general business, 
 and 1% on invoices. 
 
 As said before, the better grades of Dooars and 
 Assams are rich, heavy liquoring Teas, but do 
 not approach the Darjeeling in flavor and aroma. 
 
 Teas are principally grown in the following 
 countries: India, Ceylon, Java, Sumatra, China, 
 Japan and Formosa. (It is also grown in small 
 quantities in South Africa, and in a very limited 
 way in South Carolina, U. S. A.) 
 
 Each of the principal Tea-growing countries 
 produce several different grades of the two varie- 
 ties marketed, namely fermented or Black, and un- 
 fermented or Green. 
 
 Tea-Consuming Countries, and the amount con- 
 sumed per capita annually: Australia uses SVo to 
 9 pounds per capita, England uses GV^ to 7 pounds 
 per capita, Canada uses 5 pounds per capital, 
 Russia uses 2i^ pounds per capita, United States 
 uses not quite 1 pound per capita. 
 
 In Great Britain, "Brokens" are used almost ex- 
 clusively. 
 
 The origin of some Tea names: "Gunpowder" 
 Tea is claimed Anglo-Saxon. The name was origi- 
 nally suggested by its small, round, shot-like form. 
 The Chinese call it "Pearl Tea" or *'Choo-Cha." 
 
 It would seem that nearly all Tea titles now in 
 use were originally of Chinese origin. However, 
 most of them are corruptions. E. G. "Congou" 
 from "Kung-Fu" (Labor). "Souchong" from "Siau- 
 Chung" (small sprouts). "Pekoe" from "Pak-Ho" 
 (white hair), referring to the down on the young 
 leaves. 
 
 "Young Hyson" from "Yu-Tsien" (before the 
 rains) or (young spring-time). 
 
 138 
 
"Hyson" from "Hetslen" (spring-time), the sea- 
 son of the first and second picking. 
 
 "Oolong" fronn *K)u-Loung (black dragon), no 
 doubt referring to the black leaves mixed with the 
 yellowish green. 
 
 Imperial: Derives its name from its resem- 
 blance to Tea used in the Imperial household, and 
 is sometimes called "Big Gunpowder." 
 
 Denatured Tea: Tea which the English cus- 
 toms deem unfit for consumption. This is mixed 
 with lime and asafetida and marked "denatured." 
 In this iway the Theine or Caffeine content is ex- 
 tracted and used in medicines. 
 
 Dust: The powdery and smallest siftlnga from 
 the sieving process, being leaf practically reduced 
 to powder. Importation of this class of Tea is 
 practically forbidden into the United States. 
 
 India Teas are called the "Bergundy of Teas." 
 They differ somewhat from Ceylon, being deep 
 black, and the latter a dark brown. 
 
 They are stronger than Ceylon, due, it is said, 
 to soil fertilization and to the fact that the Juice 
 that is expressed from them in the fermentation 
 process is put back. (?) 
 
 TEA IMPORTS, PRICE AND CONSUIVDPTION 
 Five Year Averages — 1851-1914 
 
 
 
 
 Import 
 
 Per Capita 
 
 
 .K.l^4i 1.,.^ 
 
 
 Price 
 Per Lb. 
 
 Con- 
 sumption. 
 
 
 Quantity. 
 
 Value. 
 
 Period. 
 
 Pounds. 
 
 Dollars. 
 
 Cents. 
 
 Pounds. 
 
 1851-55... 
 
 19,476,000 
 
 5,254,000 
 
 27.16 
 
 .760 
 
 1856-60... 
 
 22,578,000 
 
 5,461,000 
 
 24.64 
 
 .758 
 
 1861-65... 
 
 24,814,000 
 
 6,265,000 
 
 24.56 
 
 .740 
 
 1866-70. . . 
 
 39,973,000 
 
 11,670,000 
 
 28.22 
 
 l.OSO 
 
 1871-75... 
 
 57,090,000 
 
 20,643,000 
 
 36.08 
 
 1.36S 
 
 1876-80... 
 
 61,981,000 
 
 16,454.000 
 
 26.60 
 
 1.302 
 
 1881-85... 
 
 70,471.000 
 
 16,185,000 
 
 22.70 
 
 1.316 
 
 1886-90... 
 
 82,597,000 
 
 13,956,000 
 
 17.02 
 
 1.376 
 
 1891-95... 
 
 89,675,000 
 
 13.676,000 
 
 15.52 
 
 1.340 
 
 1896-00. .. 
 
 85,217,000 
 
 11,356,000 
 
 13.20 
 
 1.186 
 
 1901-05... 
 
 95.814,000 
 
 13.848,000 
 
 14.20 
 
 1.162 
 
 1906-10... 
 
 93,594,000 
 
 15,210,000 
 
 16.24 
 
 1.036 
 
 1911-14... 
 
 95,954,000 
 
 17,200.000 
 
 18.00 
 
 .980 
 
 139 
 
MATe, VERBA MATl^, OR PARAGUAY T€A 
 
 The Mate tree grows from ten to fifteen feet in 
 height, and produces leaves resembling those of a 
 pear tree; is considered a species of Holly. It is 
 used universally in Brazil, also in other parts 
 of South America,, as a beverage which corre- 
 sponds to the "Tea" of other countries. 
 
 The leaves are: ground to a coarse powder, some- 
 times, but more frequently of late years the leaves 
 and small young shoots or twigs are simply 
 broken, ranging from coarse to fine, with as small 
 a percentage of powder as possible. 
 
 Mate is prepared very much in the same manner 
 as our "Tea," and may be taken with sugar and 
 cream, although it seems to be more popular clear, 
 as it is preferred extremely! hot. 
 
 Where the powdered form is used (and this is 
 still the popular form in many districts), the 
 beverage is taken through a small tube called a 
 " Bomb ilia." Drinking tubes with strainer at lower 
 end, shaped very much like a deep teaspoon (pos- 
 sibly not quite so large), with the flat side or top 
 covered and perforated with very fine holes. The 
 tube is possibly as large as an ordinary lead 
 pencil, and as long or longer. The upper end 
 is slightly flat. Bombillas are made from silver 
 and other metals, and, as stated, are used in uni- 
 versal Mate (native willow Tea) drinking princi- 
 pally in South American countries. 
 
 One end of this tube is in the form of a bulb 
 pierced with very fine holes. This acts as a strainer 
 and prevents the powder and other particles from 
 being sucked up into the mouth. The Germans, 
 however, in preparing the beverage bring it to a 
 good boil and then dash cold water into it, in suf- 
 ficient quantities to stop the boiling. The leaves 
 or powder settle and the Mate may then be taken 
 as pure and in the ordinary way. 
 
 The effect of Mate as a beverage is restorative 
 and stimulating. The component parts are very 
 
 14« 
 
similar to Tea and Coffee, including an important 
 percentage of their stimulating principles. (Theine 
 and Caffeine.) 
 
 Mate or Verba Mate (ilex paragueyensis). The 
 consumption is enormous throughout the Latin 
 Republics — averaging about 14 pounds per capita, 
 or nearly double the per capita tea-consumption 
 of Australasia. All attempts to introduce Mate 
 among northern races have proved commercial 
 failures. 
 
 i L 
 
SPICES 
 
 Spices: Are described as aromatic vegetable 
 substances used chiefly to season food; different 
 portions of their respective plants are used. Gin- 
 ger comes from the root of the plant, Cinnamon 
 the bark, Cloves, Nutmeg, etc., represent the fruit, 
 and Sage, Thyme and other herbs the entire upper 
 part of the plant. 
 
 Their essential oils are chiefly responsible for 
 their aroma and characteristic qualities. 
 
 Tropical Spices, such as Pepper, Ginger, Nut- 
 meg, Cloves, and Cinnamon were, because of their 
 great scarcity, even more highly regarded in 
 olden times than they are now. They are quite 
 frequently referred to in the Old Testament, and 
 are there generally classed with other items of 
 considerable value, in fact, they were considered 
 valuable and fit presents for the royal families. 
 
 It is a matter of record that these spices were 
 a part of the tribute which other monarchs paid to 
 Solomon. The wealthy Romans were especially 
 lavish in their use, in the preparation of food. 
 Also at the altars and at funerals burned witli 
 Incense. 
 
 Arabia was popularly credited with being the 
 home of all spice luxuries in ancient times and 
 through the middle ages, but this was largely due 
 to the fact that it served as a market for spicers 
 or spice merchants from the East India Islands, 
 particularly Ceylon. As time advances, we find 
 that the trade occupies an important position in 
 the history of our present civilization. For a 
 long period of years pepper was one of the princi- 
 pal items of commerce between India and Europe. 
 Venice and Genoa, and other cities, became 
 wealthy largely through its traffic. Frequently 
 rents were paid in pepper, and occasionally a tax 
 Was levied. 
 
 Cloves, Cinnamon and Nutmeg are responsible 
 for a much darker chapter, cloaking many deeds 
 of blood-satin and atrocity. 
 
 142 
 
The Portuguese and the Dutch for generations 
 maintained their control of the supply by execut- 
 ing any but government employees attempting to 
 engage in its export, by destroying plantations 
 and accumulated stores and on several occasions 
 by massacring entire native populations to prevent 
 them selling to other nations. 
 
 On the beginning of a more progressive enlight- 
 enment, the destruction of monopoly control and 
 the scientific cultivation of various spice plants, 
 have brought an abundance of all varieties at 
 prices which transform former luxuries into an 
 every-day possibility for even the poorest classes. 
 
 Extensive substituting and adulterations were 
 practiced in modern commercialism, for, until 
 quite recently, a large proportion of "Spices" sold 
 were mixed with other materials that greatly re- 
 duced their strength, impaired their natural flavor 
 and greatly injured the legitimacy of the Spice 
 business; but conditions have greatly improved in 
 recent years and both retailers and consumers 
 can noiw, by exercising a little judgment, secure 
 pure high-grade Spices of every kind. 
 
 This improvement has had a decided tendency 
 to restore a confidence in the public, and in con- 
 sequence the demand has been greatly stimulated. 
 This will prove very profitable to the merchant 
 who takes advantage of the changed situation by 
 using special card in purchasing good stocks and 
 devoting more time and space to displaying and 
 explaining them where necessary. There is a 
 nicer profit in handling Spice than in most grocery 
 items. There is a wide field for their use; in con- 
 sequence, there is enormous quantities used. 
 
 All Spices, particularly ground Spices, should be 
 protected from exposure of any nature by keeping 
 in tightly-closed receptacles. 
 
 The principal Spices of general modern con- 
 sumption are Pepper, Ginger, Cinnamon, Cloves, 
 Allspice, or Pimiento, Cayenne Pepper, Mustard, 
 
 143 
 
Cassia, Bay Leaves, Anise, Capers, Celery Seed, 
 Cardamon, Caraway, Dill, Fennel Caraway, Corian- 
 der Horseradish, Sage, Paprika, Nutmeg, Mace, 
 Marjoram, Turmeric, Thyme and Savory. Several 
 of these are known as sweet herbs. However, they 
 are all Spices and so classified and recognized in 
 government and analytical circles. 
 
 Nutmeg: The Nutmeg is the kernel of the fruit 
 of a tropical tree, native to Asia, Africa and South 
 America. 
 
 The pink or red flesh covering it is the almost 
 equally popular Spice known as Mace. 
 
 The whole fruit is about as large as a peach, 
 and of a yellowish-green color. It is, in the East 
 Indies, often preserved entire as a sweetmeat. 
 
 The tree begins bearing at the age of eight 
 years, and continues to yield for about seventy- 
 five years. It carries ripe fruit at all seasons, but 
 there are three principal harvest periods: July, 
 when the fruit is most abundant though yielding 
 thin Mace, November, when the fruit is thickest 
 but the Nutmegs are small, and March, w^hen both 
 Nutmeg and Mace attain their finest condition, 
 but the total product is less in quantity, on account 
 of the dryness of the season. 
 
 After the Nutmegs have been gathered and 
 stripped of their outer covering they are placed 
 upon gratings over slow fires and dried at a slow 
 heat, not over 140° F., until the kernel rattles 
 freely in the shell. 
 
 The shells are next cracked and removed, and 
 the kernels sprinkled with lime, to protect them 
 from the attacks of insects, and to destroy their 
 power of germination, and then packed for export 
 in tight casks, previously soaked and coated on 
 the inside with lime wash. In this condition they 
 will keep for an indefinite length of time. 
 
 In purchasing Nutmegs, choose those which are 
 round and compact In shape, of oily appearance 
 and heavy. 
 
 144 
 
They are graded and quoted by the number to 
 the pound, varying from 80 to 14(>. The largest 
 are the more showy, but those of moderate size, 
 other points being equal, are just as good (even 
 better for grinding). 
 
 Light, dried, dull kinds, or those of long, oval 
 shape, should be avoided. 
 
 The bulk of the United States' supply, which is 
 more than the total consumption of all other coun- 
 tries combined, comes from Penang and Celebes, 
 of the East Indies. There is also a small, steady 
 importation from the British West Indies. 
 
 Mace: In the inner covering which envelopes 
 the Nutmeg. It closely resembles a lacerated 
 membrane, being blood-red and somewhat fleshy 
 when fresh. It is prepared for market by being 
 fully flattened out and dried for several days in 
 the sun, much of it becomes red-yellowish during 
 process. It is used both in **blade" and ground 
 form to spice soups, sauces, pudding, etc., its 
 flavor closely resembling Nutmeg, but being, to 
 many tastes, even more pleasing. It also furnishes 
 a strong, yellow, volatile oil, and a red, buttery, 
 fixed oil,, which, mixed with other substances, is 
 known- as Nutmeg Balsam. 
 
 The bulk of the supply comes from Band! (the 
 best), Penang, Singapore, Celebes, and, though 
 only to a comparatively small extent, the West 
 Indies. 
 
 Care should be taken to choose that with a deep 
 orange color and clear, transparent, wax-like ap- 
 pearance. Dull-looking parcels are not desirable. 
 
 •** Macassar," "Papua" and "Bombay" Mace are 
 fiictitious titles sometimes given to a wild prod- 
 uct, the mixing of which with cultivated Mace is 
 rated adulteration. 
 
 Mace should always be kept in airtight, glass 
 bottles or tin boxes. 
 
 Penang Spices: A term occasionally applied to 
 a mixture of various spices, employed in cooking, 
 preserving, etc. 
 
 145 
 
CLOVES 
 
 Cloves, iwidely used for flavoring desserts and 
 confectionery, and medicinally, are the dried 
 flower buds of the Clove tree. As packed, they 
 are reddish in color, but this changes to the fa- 
 miliar dark-brown in the process of drying, per- 
 formed either by the smoke of wood fires or by 
 exposure to the sun. 
 
 The Clove tree, an evergreen, grows to a height 
 of forty feet, bears its developed Clove buds in its 
 seventh year, and gives two crops annually, in- 
 creasing its productiveness up to an age of nearly 
 a hundred years. 
 
 The average yield per tree is about five pounds 
 of Clove buds. In the initial drying there is 
 usually 50% loss in weight and another 8% to 10% 
 is lost in shipment to Europe or America. 
 
 Fully two-thirds of the Clove crop is produced 
 at Zanzibar, and its neighboring Island of Pemba, 
 but the quality is much inferior to the Penang and 
 Amboyna prouct. The most desirable Clove is 
 the full-sized brown, plump bud, and the Penang 
 is considered the finest on the market. Amboynas 
 are also high grade and very desirable. The Zan- 
 zibars, owing probably to the inferior methods of 
 drying and collecting, are often shriveled and 
 black. 
 
 The Clove industry was for many centuries con- 
 turies confined to very narrow limits. A few 
 Islands of the Molucco group furnished the world's 
 supply up to the beginning of the seventeenth 
 century; then the Dutch, having driven the Por- 
 tuguese out of the "Spice Islands," tried to destroy 
 all the Clove trees except those on the Island of 
 Amboyna, to perfect their monopoly. 
 
 Later the Island of Zanzibar became an im- 
 portant producer, but for a number of years fol- 
 lowing 1872 it was again unproductive, as the re- 
 sult of a cyclone, which uprooted nearly all of the 
 mature fruit-bearing trees. 
 
 146 
 
An interesting result of the cyclone was the 
 release from the Dutch Government warehouse at 
 Amboyna of surplus Cloves that had been accumu- 
 lating there for generations, no sales having been 
 permitted except when the bids reached the prices 
 set by the Government. The markings on some 
 of the barrels received at that time in New York 
 showed that they belonged to the surplus of crops 
 reaching back nearly a hundred years. Some of 
 the barrels were ready to fall to pieces, but the 
 Cloves were in excellent condition. 
 
 The principal sources of supply today are the 
 Islands of Zanzibar and Pemba (British East 
 Africa), and the East Indies (both Dutch and 
 British). 
 
 The best grade of British is that known as 
 Penang; that of Dutch is Amboyna. Dark, well- 
 formed Cloves are the best. 
 
 Mother Cloves is the dry, ripe fruit. It some- 
 what resembles the olive in appearance. Its 
 flavor is similar, too, but much weaker than that 
 of the ordinary Clove. They contain little oil 
 and are not suitable as a spice. Planters further 
 hold that the growth of the Mother Clove ex- 
 hausts the tree, so, therefore, as few as possible 
 are left when the picking season is over. 
 
 Allspice, also called Pimiento and Jamaica pep- 
 per, is the dried fruit of a small West Indian tree 
 called the Pimiento. 
 
 It is about the size of a pepper, or small pea, and 
 is gathered when fully grown, but not ripened, 
 and dried in the sun. It is called Allspice from its 
 supposed resemblance in flavor to a mixture of 
 Cinnamon, Nutmeg and Cloves. It Ts often used 
 in place of Cinnamon. 
 
 Cinnamon is the spicy bark of young branches 
 of the Cinnamon tree, cut off in strips and dried 
 in the sun, curling during the process into the 
 quills with which the consumer is familiar. 
 
 147 
 
Ceylon Cinnamon is obtained from CInnamomum 
 Zeylanicum, native to Ceylon but also cultivated 
 to some extent in the East Indies. Cassia Cinna- 
 mon is from Cannamomum Cassia, the chief East 
 Indian and Chinese type. 
 
 Both kinds are sold both in quills and ground, 
 their fragrant, aromatic flavor making them a 
 popular adjunct in cookery, confectionery, etc. 
 
 Ceylon Cinnamon is the variety referred to in 
 the general article on Spice®, as, in earlier days, a 
 commodity of great value and the cause of many 
 wars and much bloodshed. It was first carried 
 to the world's markets by Arabs, who kept its 
 source a great secret for a number of centuries, 
 and contrived to discourage possible investigation 
 by stories of fabulous monsters inhabiting the 
 country from which they were supposed to obtain 
 it. That the tree grew wild in Ceylon was not 
 generally known until the fourteenth century, in 
 spite ot the fact that the spice had been continu- 
 ously in use since the early days of Israel, Greece 
 and Rome. 
 
 Ceylon Cinnamon is of a pale yellowish-brown 
 color and generally of lighter, cleaner and 
 smoother appearance than Cassia. 
 
 The quills (the smaller enclosed in the larger) 
 are also usually thinner and more tightly rolled, 
 but these distinctions are not absolute, as there 
 are many grades of Cassia. 
 
 Cassia Cinnamon was until recent years decried 
 as an inferior imitation, principally because the 
 greater part of the supply consisted of the inferior 
 and poorly prepared China product. It has, how- 
 ever, just as good botanical title to the general 
 name of "Cinnamon" as the Ceylon type, as the 
 result of the fine quality now exported from 
 French Cochin-China and the Dutch East Indies. 
 It is today given the preference in the United 
 States and in several European countries, because 
 
 14S 
 
its flavor is more pronounced and more lasting. 
 The Ceylon is milder and so much more volatile 
 that it loses readily on exposure to the air. 
 
 The demand for Ceylon Cinnamon has indeed so 
 lessened that commercial interests are urging the 
 cultivation of Cassia in Ceylon in order to main- 
 tain the Island's position in the trade. 
 
 In analytical circles, the Ceylon variety is still 
 conservatively described as "True Cinnamon" in- 
 stead of the commercial term "Ceylon Cinnamon." 
 
 The lower grades of Cassia are cheaper than any 
 of the Ceylon generally marketed, but the best 
 qualities are more expensive. 
 
 The four main grades are those known as Saigon, 
 or Saigan,from French Cochin-China (the choicest) ; 
 Corinche and Batavia of the Dutch East Indies and 
 China (the cheapest). Saigon Cassia is generally 
 used for blending with lower grades. 
 
 PEPPER 
 
 The Black or White powdered Pepper used as a 
 condiment is the ground fruit of the Piper Nigrum, 
 (L> a perennial climbing shrub, native to the for- 
 ests of Western and Southern India, but for cen- 
 turies cultivated also on the Maylon Peninsula and 
 in Sumatra, Java Ceylon and Slam, and to a lim- 
 ited extent in Borneo and various other Tropical 
 countries. 
 
 The fruit is a small, round berry, the Pepper- 
 in loosely-packed clusters of from twenty to 
 thirty, closely attached to a common fruit stalk, 
 a good vine producing an annual average of from 
 one to two pounds. 
 
 Pieces of the stalk may often be found in whole 
 black Pepper and examination will show the de- 
 pressions formed where the berriqs were at- 
 tached. 
 
 149 
 
The shrub or vine grows to a height of eight 
 to twelve feet, and is supported either by poles or 
 trees. The "Peppercorns" are exported in bags of 
 64 to 128 pounds. 
 
 Black Pepper consists of the dried, immature 
 berries of the shrub, gathered as soon as one or 
 two on the clusters commence to turn red. 
 
 After removal from the stem they are dried in 
 the sun or near a mild fire, the outer fleshy portion 
 of the berry, shriveling in the process, turning 
 brown or black and becoming hard, brittle and 
 adherent to the stony, inner portion, thus forming: 
 a hardened, wrinkled cortex. 
 
 Among the principal commercial varieties listed 
 in a recent Government report are: Malabar (Man- 
 galare, Tellicherry, Alleppy, etc.). Singapore, Pe- 
 nang and Trang, Acheen (or Sumatra or West 
 Coast), and Lampong (or East Coast), named eith- 
 er from the place of cultivation or that ot ship- 
 ment. 
 
 Malabar Peppers are those from me Malabar 
 Coast of India. "Mangalore" peppercorns are very 
 large, twicei the size of ordinary pepper, of a 
 deep black, very clean and uniform, giving, when 
 ground, a powder of greenish-black appearance. 
 
 Tellicherry Pepper is that grown on the Malay 
 Peninsula, principally in the Southern extremity 
 known as the State of Jahore. It constitutes a 
 considerable portion of all the pepper raised, and, 
 because of its dark color and fairly uniform qual- 
 ity, is a product of good appearance. It is not, 
 however, so highly regarded for grrnnding purposes, 
 because of its smoky odor. The pepper and gam- 
 bier plantations of Jahore are usually under one 
 management, and the pepper is dried by placing 
 it on mats suspended over the kettles in which 
 the gambler is boiled down to make the vegetable 
 extract. The smoke from the furnace underneath 
 dries the pepper, but at the same time imparts 
 to it a decidedly smoky smell, which is retained to 
 
 l&O 
 
a considerable degree, even after the pepper is 
 ground. It is, indeed, one of the tests by which 
 the pepper merchant determines whether a given 
 sample is Singapore or not. 
 
 Trang and Penang Pepper, shipped from Pe- 
 nang, is grown in either Java or Sumatra. It is of 
 especially rich color. 
 
 Acheen, Sumatra or West Coast are names ap- 
 plied to the pepper obtained from Acheen, the 
 western extremity of the Island of Sumatra. 
 
 Lampong Pepper or East Coast is grown on the 
 east end of the Island of Sumatra, near the Straits 
 of Sunda. 
 
 As a rule, the heavier the Peppercorns for size, 
 the better the grade. They should be firm and 
 round, clean and uniform in appearance and not 
 too much furrowed. 
 
 Acheen Pepper has been standardized by gen- 
 eral agreement, and the four chief grades are 
 now determined by their specific gravity. Classed: 
 A. B. €. D. B weighs a little less than A, C less 
 than B, and D less than C. Dust not to exceed 
 3% in any class. 
 
 The many advantages of this method will prob- 
 ably result in its extension to all Black Peppers in 
 the near future. 
 
 The other varieties described in this work are 
 generally superior to Acheen, and give much high- 
 er results on the weight test. For example, A 
 grade Acheen weighs 4 lbs. and 13 ozs. to the Im- 
 perial Gallon, while A grade Aileppey sometimes 
 weighs as much as 6 lbs. and 12 ozs. and contains 
 practically no dust. 
 
 Tellicherry ranges from 6 lbs. to 6 lbs. 12 ozs., 
 and is equally clean.. Lampong averages about 6 
 lbs. with a dust percentage of 1V2% to 3%, and 
 Singapore from 5 lbs. os ozs. to 5 lbs. 8 ozs., the 
 dust ranging up to 4%. 
 
 151 
 
White Pepper is practically the same product as 
 Black Pepper, except that the outer shell or peri- 
 carp of the berry is removed to a greater or less 
 extent by, friction, following soaking in water. It 
 is sometimes made at the plantations, but just as 
 frequently by manufacturers who buy the Pepper- 
 corns in the open market. 
 
 'Some manufacturers prefer, for White Pepper, 
 berries that have been allowed to ripen before 
 picking, as they are more ea&ily decorticated, but 
 this is not a universal rule. 
 
 Decorticated White Pepper is the term applied 
 to the product which, in addition to losing the 
 outer dark shell, has also had the seed-coats 
 partly or entirely removed. 
 
 There are numerous qualdties to the length to 
 which the process has been carried. The most ex- 
 pensive is that from which all three seed-coats 
 have been removed, producing smooth, hard, pearly 
 kernels. Other grades retain one or two seed- 
 coats. 
 
 There are several grades of White Pepper on 
 the market, corresponding in a general way with 
 Black Pepper, such as Singapore, Penang, Teili- 
 cherry, Siam, etc. 
 
 Coriander White Pepper is a product of especi- 
 ally attractive appearance, screened to uniform 
 size and then bleached. 
 
 Shotted Pepper: Polished in a cylinder and 
 sometimes slightly oiled to present a polished, 
 glazed appearance. 
 
 Mignonette Pepper: A term sometimes applied 
 to coarsely-ground Peppercorns. 
 
 Pepper shells is the by-product of external shell 
 or cutjicle obtained in the manufacture of White 
 Pepper. 
 
 Ground Pepper, whether Black or White, should 
 consist only of whole or hulled peppercorns re- 
 duced to proper fineness by grinding and sieving. 
 
 152 
 
Long Pepper is chiefly derived from wild plants 
 of the genus Chavico Mlq. The fruit spikes, gath- 
 ered when green; are cylindrical in form and cov- 
 ered with closely packed, small, round berries. 
 The product is crudely prepared, the berries har- 
 dened together with and adhering to the woody 
 stem, and generally including a large quantity of 
 dirt and other extraneous matter. It does not 
 possess the fine flavor or strength of true pepper, 
 and its addition is rated as adulteration. Its prin- 
 cipal use is for pickles. 
 
 CAPSICUMS 
 
 Red Pepper, Chilies, Cayenne Pepper (some- 
 times called Guinea Pepper), Paprika. 
 
 These are the most widely cultivated Spices in 
 the world. We are told that originally the plants 
 were natives of South and Central America, and 
 the various names used in the different sections of 
 the 'Globe seem to prove this assertion. 
 
 The seeds are easily transported, and have there- 
 fore been brought to almost every country for cul- 
 tivation. 
 
 The growth is most favorable in the warmer 
 climates, and the crop is always in largo demand 
 by the natives in the fresh state as a vegetable. 
 
 Red Pepper is the powdered ripe pod, both flesh 
 and seeds, of any variety of Capsicum, the plant 
 which gives us the edible fresh "pepper," but which 
 bears no relation to the true pepper-plan:. 
 
 The most noted varieties are cultivated exten- 
 sively in the East and West Indies, Mexico and the 
 Southern States. 
 
 Cayenne Pepper is distinguished from Red Pep- 
 per lin general by its dull red or brick red color, as 
 compared to the brighter red of Red Pepper. 
 
 153 
 
Napaul and many other Cayenne Peppers are 
 extremely light-colored, as they should naturally 
 be if properly made from the ground seeds alone, 
 unmixed with the redder husks of the fruit cap- 
 sules. Hence, the lighter color and milder flavor 
 of genuine Cayenne Pepper. 
 
 Capsicum Seeds after the removal of the peri- 
 carp and thoroughly washed and dried are en- 
 tirely devoid of acridity and pungency. 
 
 The best-known commercial varieties are Zanzi- 
 bar, Mcmbassa, Sierra Lecone and Japan, the 
 last named being less pungent than the others. 
 Named after Cayenne, a city of French Guiana. 
 
 Napaul Pepper is from a capsicum grown in 
 Nepaul, Indiia. It is a choice variety of Cayenne 
 Pepper, yellowish-red and very pungent, but of 
 especially agreeable flavor. 
 
 Cayenne is a powerful stimulant, producing a 
 sense of heat in the stomach and a general glow 
 throughout the body without narcotic effect. In 
 small amounts it is an aid to digestion, particularly 
 of vegetables, which partly accounts for its general 
 use in warm weather. 
 
 Paprika, also called Hungarian Pepper and Sweet 
 Cayenne Pepper, is the powdered flesh (only) of a 
 long, fruited variety of common Capsicum, grown 
 principally in Hungary and Spain, but also to an 
 increasing extent here. It is red and mildly pun- 
 gent. 
 
 The several grades are determined by the selec- 
 tion of the peppers and their treatment, both be- 
 fore and after grinding. Pods of especially reddish 
 color and mild flavor are considered the choicest. 
 Sharpness of taste denotes inferiority. 
 
 Paprika is a very valuable Spice for flavoring 
 dishes, and is almost universally liked even on the 
 first use. It should always be kept dry. 
 
 Chili, or Chiles: The Mexican, and quite gen- 
 erally the popular name for the pods of several 
 species of small-fruited, specially pungent Capsi- 
 cums, put up as a separate pickle or added to 
 
 154 
 
"mixed pickles," etc. They are largely consumed 
 in hot countries. 
 
 The two Mexican dishes containing them which 
 are best known here are Chili-Con-Carne and the 
 Chicken Tamale. The word is also used as a 
 group name for many articles highly seasoned 
 either with whole Capsicums or Cayenne Pepper, 
 etc. 
 
 The Japan Chili is a bright-red fruit, about three- 
 quarters of an inch long. There is a Japan Chili 
 imported which averages about one and one-quar- 
 ter inches long, but the smaller size is usually 
 preferred. This article is the favorite in the pick- 
 ling trade, and is also used in the grind to lend 
 a bright color to Cayenne Pepper. It does not 
 passess as much strength as some other grades of 
 Chilies, and is not usually ground alone. 
 
 The usual original trade package is a pocket of 
 501 or lOQ pounds. 
 
 The Mombassa Chill is a fruit about one-half 
 inch in length, of a browninsh-red color, and is 
 considered the strongest grinding chili on the 
 market today. 
 
 The original package is also either a 50 or lOO*- 
 pound pocket. 
 
 The Bombay Capsicum is a pod about two or 
 three inches long with a thick skin and a heavy 
 stem. It is usually the cheapest grade available 
 for grinding, and if a lot of bright, red, clean pods 
 are secured, will produce a good colored powder 
 of considerable strength. 
 
 The Bombay Capsicum is mixed with Mombassa 
 or other strong Chilies by many grinders to pro- 
 duce a strong, ground red Pepper at a moderate 
 price. 
 
 To the native of India Spices and condiments 
 are indispensable. Dr. Watts says: *'He will eat 
 contentedly by the stream-side a meal of uncooked 
 flour and iwater, provided it is flavored with a few 
 green; Chilies." 
 
 155 
 
Most shipments of the article arrive in bales 
 of about 240 pounds each. 
 
 Japan Capsicums are similar to the Bombay in 
 size, but have a less heavy skin and usually a 
 lesser proportion of stem. They do not make a 
 strong grind, and are used chiefly in mixture with 
 stronger grades to produce a ground red Pepper. 
 
 The Bombay Cherry (Pepper) is a blunt cylin- 
 drical fruit, about three-quarters of an inch in 
 length, bright red color and free from stem. It 
 possesses fair strength and makes a good-colored, 
 desirable grind. 
 
 The usual package is a bale of about 240 
 pounds. 
 
 The loss in weight from the grind of red Pepper 
 is considerable and owing to the moisture in some 
 grades, many millers have trouble in preparing 
 their product. 
 
 There is a diversity of opinion as to what con- 
 stitutes a Cayenne and what a red Pepper, the 
 common idea being that the product of a grind 
 of any Capsicum produces either. 
 
 In the writer's opinion the same standard should 
 govern either or both, as the laymen knows no 
 such fine difference, but desires the one article, 
 whether he refers to it as Cayenne or red Pepper. 
 
 Chili Teplne: A small round red to yellowish- 
 red pepper, pleasantly pungent, about the size of 
 an ordinary pea. Grown in iVIexico, South and 
 Central America. Perhaps more extensively, how- 
 ever, in Mexico than elsewhere. Used principally 
 for flavoring meats, fish, soups, etc. 
 
 Tabasco: A long-podded red pepper (also short 
 and also green), cultivated chiefly in Southern 
 Louisiana. 
 
 It is best known to commerce as Tabasco 'Pep- 
 per Cause, a rich, red, concentrated extract, gen- 
 erally put up in small bottles with corks shaped 
 for dropping. It is also sold powdered, but to less 
 extent. 
 
 156 
 
Tabasco Sauce is excellent for flavoring soups, 
 salads, etc, and some people like it on oysters, 
 fish and meats. Only small quantities should be 
 used, as it is very strong. In making sauces, etc.. 
 If a sharp, quick effect is desired, mix with vinegar. 
 If otherwise, mix first with olive oil and salt, and 
 'then with vinegar, the result will be soft and deli- 
 cate, but still strongly marked by the characteris- 
 tic Tabasco flavor. 
 
 TABASCO PEPPER CULTURE 
 
 How the Tabasco Variety Is Grown and Prepared 
 for the Market 
 
 This description of the methods pursued in the 
 cultivation and preparation of peppers for the 
 market refers to a particular type of Tabasco Pep- 
 per grown in the parishes bordering the bank of 
 the River Teche, in Louisiana. The details are 
 furnished by the Creole Pepper Company of New 
 Orleans. 
 
 **The soil along the banks of the Teche," says 
 this grower and packer, "seems to possess what is 
 necessary to mature the 'green' flavor which tabas- 
 co peppers alone possess." 
 
 "Attempts have been made to increase the acre- 
 age by raising the peppers from the same seed, 
 in other parishes, but while the peppers were 'at- 
 tractive' to the eye, and 'hot' to the palate, they 
 lacked the peculiar flavor of the genuine Tabasco, 
 grown in the Teche country." 
 
 "Three varieties are cured, known as the 
 'Oreen,' large and small, 'Red' Tabasco Peppers. 
 The 'green' are flrm and will keep indefinitely 
 when properly cured and constantly covered with 
 brine. Perhaps they possess more of the bona 
 fide tabasco flavor than do 'the 'red,' and they are 
 not quite so pungently hot. This 'green' tabasco 
 is quite a favorite with the Creole epicures, who 
 use them on the same plate with their dinners." 
 
 1'57 
 
"The crop is a costly one, and the plants are 
 delicate shrubs. Severe winds, which come every 
 now and then; excessive rains, or early cold 
 weather, all have an important bearing on the 
 annual crop, the gathering of which begins in 
 August and continues until November." 
 
 "The peppers are gathered mainly by women 
 and children. They are preferably picked in the 
 early morning, and they must be at the curing 
 plant and in the brine within six hours from the 
 time they havq been taken from the bushes, and 
 the peppers remain in this brine solution, con- 
 sisting of nothing but salt and water, until they, 
 have been sufficiently cured. This process takes 
 from four days to a week, according to the weather 
 conditions prevailing at the time." 
 
 Capsicum. There are many species of Capsicum, 
 all natives to the warm parts of America, Africa 
 and Asia, and now cultivated in every part of the 
 iworld. The small-fruited types, generally the most 
 pungent, are best known popularly as "Chi lies," 
 and the larger as "•Peppers." 
 
 Chilies are used whole in vinegars, pickles, etc., 
 for making popular hot dishes, and to grind into 
 Cayenne Pepper, and "Peppers" are eaten as a 
 vegetable, and ground into Red Pepper and Pap- 
 rika. 
 
 IVIUSTARD 
 
 The IVIustard in general use as a condiment con- 
 sists of the crushed seeds of the IVIustard plant, 
 native to England, but capable of almost universal 
 cultivation. 
 
 The mature plant ranges from three to six feet 
 in height, and has bright-yellow flowers. There 
 are two chief varieties, the white, producing pale- 
 yellow seeds, and the black, with seeds smaller, 
 more irregular and dark brown on the outside, 
 though also ye I law Inside. 
 
 158 
 
In trade circles, the products are distinguished 
 as "Yellow and "Brown," but there is little dif- 
 ference in composition, and the retail product is 
 generally a mixture of the two. 
 
 Mustard was used medicinally by the most cele- 
 brated physicians of antiquity. 
 
 As a condiment it dates from the latter part of 
 the sixteenth century, but it was little known until 
 the year 1729, when an old woman of the name 
 of Clements, residing in Durham, England, began, 
 to grind the seed in a mill and to pass the flour 
 through the several processes necessary to free it 
 from the husks. She kept her secret for many 
 years, selling (large quantiti^^ throughout the 
 country, especially in London. The product ob- 
 tained the name of Durham Mustard, from her resi- 
 dence in that city. 
 
 The manufacture of Mustard at first consisted 
 essentially of grinding the seed into a very fine 
 flour, a bushel of seed weighing sixty pounds yield- 
 ing only twenty-eight to thirty pounds of flour 
 Mustard. 
 
 Manufacturers soon discovered that they could 
 please the public palate better by modifying the 
 pungency of the flavor, and the result is that to- 
 day it is made in a great variety of styles, each 
 establishment following its own formula for mel* 
 lowing, blending, mixing, etc. Genuine Mustard 
 is easily obtainable, but it does not please the 
 general taste as well as the prepared, modified 
 article. 
 
 In moistening or "mixing'* dry mustard, or mus- 
 tard flour, two main objects must be kept in view. 
 First, to obtain the desired consistency. Srcond/ 
 to make it perfectly smooth. To produce these 
 effects, add the liquid in small quantities and rub 
 and pound the mustard well with a spoon. The 
 simplest form of preparation consists of mustard 
 flour, moistened with sufficient water to produce 
 the consistency of thick batter, with half a tea- 
 sipoonful of salt added for each two ounces of 
 
 159 
 
mustard flour. Some people like the fine, pow- 
 dered sugar included in the same proportion as 
 salt. Vinegar and Olive Oil can be used according 
 to taste, but some cold water is necessary for the 
 first mixing in order to develop the pungency. 
 
 If, for immediate use, milk, or milk and cream, 
 may be employed in place of either vinegar or oil. 
 
 The greatest part of the prepared mustard now 
 enjoying popular use and favor consists of 50% 
 to 75%' vinegar, flour thickening and various con- 
 diments. 
 
 U. S. prepared mustard is a paste composed of 
 a mixture of ground Mustard Seed or Mustard 
 Flour, Salt, Spices and Vinegar. 
 
 GINGER 
 
 Ginger (Hanbury says it was well known in 
 England prior to the Norman Conquest), in its 
 commercial form is the root-stock of the Ginger 
 plant, a perennial reed-like plant with annual leafy 
 stems, three or four feet high, which grows freely 
 in moist places in all tropical climates. 
 
 The root is gathered when the stalk withers and 
 is immediately scalded, or washed and scraped, 
 in order to kill it and prevent sprouting. 
 
 The former method, applied generally to the 
 oldier and poorer roots, produces black Ginger. 
 The latter gives white Ginger. 
 
 The natural color of the "white" scraped Ginger 
 is a pale^buff. It is often whitened by bleaching 
 or liming, but generally at the expense of some of 
 its real value. 
 
 White Ginger of the first grade should be large, 
 light-buff throughout, soft and even in cutting and 
 of strong characteristic flavor. The present sup- 
 ply comes chiefly from Jamaica, the Malabar Coast 
 of India and the East Indies. "Cochin" and "Cali- 
 cut" are titles borroswed from the two Indian cities 
 of those names. 
 
 160 
 
African Ginger is dark, but has an excellent, 
 strong flavor. Borneo Ginger is merely a former 
 trade term for some white Ginger. None is ex- 
 ported from Borneo. 
 
 Japan Ginger, usually bleached or limed before 
 shipment, is of fine appearance, large and smooth, 
 J)ut is much inferior in strength to the other va- 
 rieties mentioned. 
 
 Preserved or conserved or Canton Ginger con- 
 sists of young, green roots boiled and cured in 
 syrup and put in pots and jars. The principal 
 consumption is of the imported Chinese product, 
 but there is an increasing sale of West Indian. 
 
 Crystal ized Ginger is also made from the youn- 
 ger roots. The best grades from roots selected 
 for uniform size and appearance are called "Stem 
 Ginger." 
 
 Medicinally, Oinger, as Jamaica Ginger, etc., is 
 a grateful stimulant and carminative, being much 
 used for dyspepsia, colic, etc. lit is also frequently 
 employed to disguise the taste of nauseous medi- 
 cines. Ginger Tea is an old-fashioned remedy for 
 colds. 
 
 ''Switchell' is a summer drink, once very popu- 
 lar in the haying fields, made from Ginger, mo- 
 lasses and water, with a little vinegar added to 
 give it acidity. 
 
 Condiments: Substances taken with food to sea- 
 son or improve the flavor, or to render it more 
 wholesome or digestable. They include such arti- 
 cles of general consumption as Saft, Vinegar, 
 Spices, etc. A majority of them in moderation, 
 stimulate both appetite and digestion, but their 
 excessive use tends to vitiate the gastric juice 
 and injure the stomach. 
 
 Poultry Seasoning: A preparation of spices and 
 herbs ready mixed for use in stuffing fouls. It 
 sells easily during the Fall and Winter Hollidays. 
 
 161 
 
SEEDS 
 
 Corlnader Seed: The fruit of a small plant 
 growing chiefly in the South of Europe. It is 
 used as a culinary flavor, especially for curries, in 
 confectionery, and to aromatise spirituous liquors. 
 
 Dill:. An herb of the parsley family, grown 
 chiefly for its aromatic, pungent seeds, which are 
 employed in the manufacture of sauces, pickles, 
 etc. 
 
 Cardamon: The dark, wrinkled, triangular seeds 
 of a spice plant native to India. They possess an 
 aromatic and agreeably pungent flavor and are 
 used in cooking, especially in curries and soups, 
 by confectioners, etc. 
 
 Anise Seed: The minute seeds of an annual 
 plant, cultivated chiefly in Spain, Egypt, Syria and 
 other Mediterranean countries, but also to a large 
 extent in Germany, principally in the vicinity of 
 Erfurt. It is used as a condiment, in the manu- 
 facture of liquors, candy, etc. 
 
 Star or Chinese Anise, imported mainly from 
 China, is in flavor similar to common Anise, but 
 is very different in appearance, being star-shaped 
 and frequently of a total diameter of about an 
 inch. 
 
 Caraway Seed: The highly aromatic seeds of 
 a plant which grows wild in the meadows of Hol- 
 land, and Northern Germany, and is cultivated in 
 many other countries, including the United States, 
 especially California. 
 
 They are employed in a variety of ways, as a 
 culinary flavor, in confectionery, baking, etc., and 
 in the perfumery and soap-making industries. 
 
 The roots of the Caraway plant were at one 
 time eaten as a vegetable, and the young and 
 tender leaves still occasionally serve for flavoring 
 soups, etc. 
 
 Hemp Seed: Commercially is best known as a 
 food for canaries and other cage birds. The plant 
 is an annual, of the nettle family, and attains an 
 
 162 
 
average height of from four to eight feet, is grown 
 chiefly in India, Russia, Argentina, and the United 
 States. 
 
 Rape Seed: Also known as Cole Seeds. These 
 are used for bird food, both straight and mixed 
 with other seeds; is a member of the turnip 
 family. 
 
 Poppy or "iVIaw-Seed" of both the Black, Blue 
 and White Poppy, is retailed to some extent for 
 use on or in bread, generally of the Vienna shape 
 and rolls, such as the German "Salt-Stangen." 
 Analysis show about 50% oil, and 25% protein 
 and pectins. 
 
 It is also sold as bird food, then frequently 
 styled Maw-Seed, and is considered an especially 
 desirable diet when birds are moulting. 
 
 Rape Seed comes from the Rape plant, a mem- 
 ber of the Turnip family, cultivated in both Eu- 
 rope and Asia. 
 
 Rape Oil is obtained from the Rape Seed, and 
 is used chiefly in the manufacture of soap. 
 
 Millet: Is the smallest of grains, but is very 
 abundant in product, each plant having a number 
 of stalks and a single head, sometimes giving two 
 ounces of seed. 
 
 Common Millet, the variety chiefly cultivated in 
 this country, is broadly divided into brown and 
 yellow grain. The former, used in the same man- 
 ner as rice, makes good puddings, but the greater 
 part of the domestic crop of all types is used as 
 green fodder, although there is large quantities 
 cured, stacked or stored and fed to stock as hay. 
 
 The ripe seeds are also valuable as bird and 
 poultry food. 
 
 Imported Millet, in Germany and Italy, con- 
 sumed in large quantities in soups and other forms, 
 is of smaller grain types than Common Millet. 
 
 The yellow Italian is used here to some extent 
 for puddings, but the bulk of the supply Is re- 
 tailed as food for cage birds. 
 
 Another variety, known as Guinea Maize, is 
 
 163 
 
common in Peru, furnishing there white flour of 
 very pleasing flavor. 
 
 Canary Seed: The seed of the Canary Grass, 
 native to the Canary islands, but long ago natural- 
 ized in many temperate climates. Its principal 
 use in this country is as bird food. It is generally 
 mixed with Rape and other seed to cheapen it, 
 but the straight Canary seed is decidedly prefer- 
 able. 
 
 It should be kept in a dry place and away from 
 vermin. 
 
 Industrially, a flour made from Canary seed is 
 employed in the manufacture of fine cotton goods 
 and silk stuffs, and in the Canary Islands, Italy 
 and North Africa is used as food. 
 
 SPICES, HERB AND SEED (ology) 
 
 In this case Cummin, 'Cumin, Cuminas, or Comi- 
 nos is the "cause of it all" (particularly at this 
 time). 
 
 The writer has seen this herb, seed or spice 
 listed by jobbers, brok^s and druggists, and 
 spelled variously, as above. 
 
 This is an "herb" that produces a "seed" that is 
 classed as a "spice." It is of the Caraway type. 
 The seeds have an aromatic odor and taste which 
 makes it popular as a flavoring for soups, pastry 
 and so forth. It is, and always has been, particu- 
 larly popular in Europe and the Far East. 
 
 It is used quite extensively in the United States, 
 Its greatest use perhaps being in Curry Powders. 
 
 Curry Powder, or Curry Paste: Is a condiment 
 so highly seasoned that it is only within recent 
 years that it has obtained a substantial foothold 
 in temperate climates, though it has been used 
 extensively in India and other Eastern countries 
 for many generations. 
 
 In India it generally consists of Black Pepper, 
 Cayenne Pepper and a variety of Spices — Cinna- 
 mon, Nutmeg, Cloves, etc. — made into a paste or 
 powder with Turmeric. 
 
 Its composition varies with different makers. 
 
 lU 
 
That sold here usually contains chiefly Turmeric, 
 Coriander Seed, Cayenne, Black Pepper, Fenn- 
 greek Seed, Ginger and Lime juice. It is handled 
 in jars, bottles, packages, etc. 
 
 The word "curry" is of (Asiatic) Indian origin, 
 and originally signified there a "stew" — generally 
 of cliicken, veal or lamb. 
 
 The "finishing" or seasoning of the dish used to 
 be quite frequently performed at the table by the 
 host or some other member of the party; later, 
 the word came to be applied more particularly to 
 a mixture ot Spices. 
 
 In India and Ceylon, curry sauces are added to a 
 variety of dishes, generally a few minutes before 
 serving or before the completion of the cooking. 
 Vegetables of all kinds, in addition to meats, 
 poultry and fish, are so treated. Curry is best 
 kept in a bottle or jar tightly corked. 
 
 Fenngreek: Is an herb which resembles clover. 
 Its seeds (as just mentioned) are used as an in- 
 gredient of Curry Powder; separately, they are 
 strong, bitter and of unpleasant flavor. 
 
 Turmeric: Is the yellow root-stock of a plant of 
 the Ginger family, marketed both in root form and 
 as a powder. It is the principal ingredient in 
 Curry Powders, and is also used for mixing with 
 Mustard and other spices. Its yellow color, after 
 the extraction known as Curcuma Oil and Cur- 
 cummin, is employed as a dye-stuff in chemistry, 
 etc. 
 
 HERBS 
 
 Basil: A highly aromatic herb, with a flavor 
 resembling cloves. The common variety is sel- 
 dom made use of, but there is a large type whose 
 leaves are employed very generally in flavoring 
 sauces and soups, especially green and mock 
 turtle soup. 
 
 Basil Vinegar is made by steeping the leaves in 
 vinegar. 
 
 165 
 
Bay Leaves: The leaves of a shrub of the 
 Laurel variety, growing wild in Greece, Italy and 
 other Mediterranean countries and in some South- 
 ern sections of the United States. 
 
 Among the ancient Greeks, the Bay Leaf was in 
 large part dedicated to heroism and poetry, but 
 modern usage consecrates it to the more material 
 pleasures of the table. The principal consumption 
 is of the dried leaf, used as flavoring for soups, 
 etc. 
 
 Myrtle: A small evergreen tree, whose sweet, 
 pulpy and aromatic black berries are dried for use 
 as a condiment, in addition to their consumption 
 fresh. Both leaves and wood also yield an oil 
 used in the manufacture ot perfumes. 
 
 Bergamontf (an herb), a title frequently applied 
 to a family of several different plants used for 
 their stimulating and aromatic properties, as 
 "wild Bergamont," "American Horse Mint," etc. 
 
 Marjoram: A garden hehb of the Aster family. 
 There are numerous varieties, the most desirable 
 being the Sweet or "Knotted," Winter Sweet and 
 Pot. Both the tops and leaves, green and dried, 
 are used to flavor soups, dressing, etc. 
 
 For drying, the branches are cut before the 
 flowers open, marketed in leaf and powdered form. 
 
 Common or Wild Marjoram grows wild in many 
 parts of the country in the open fields. It resem- 
 bles the cultivated! types, but is coarser in flavor. 
 
 Oregano or Mexican Marjoram: Grows wild in 
 Mexico and Central America, is sometimes culti- 
 vated in a small way in the former country. The 
 whole or powdered leaves of this plant are pleas- 
 antly pungent, slightly aromatic, and of rather 
 agreeable flavor. Quite coarse in appearance. 
 
 Savory or Summer Savory: An annual herb of 
 the Mint family, with strong, agreeable, aromatic 
 smell and flavor. Its leaves are in common use, 
 both fresh and dried, for flavoring soups, etc. 
 Dried Savory being retailed both loose and in cans 
 and bottles. 
 
 166 
 
The blossoms and branches are also sometimes 
 similarly employed. 
 
 Thyme: A garden herb largely cultivated for 
 its fragrant tops and leaves, which are popular as 
 a culinary seasoning. 
 
 The best variety is the Lemon Scented. 
 
 Thyme for drying should be cut when just com- 
 mencing to blossom, and should be slowly dried 
 in the shade. It is sold in cans and bottles, or 
 loose in small bunches. 
 
 Sage: A shrub whose tops and wrinkled, whit- 
 ish-green leaves are extensively used, both fresh 
 and dried, for flavoring soups, sauces, dressing, 
 etc., because of its characteristic aromatic, bitter 
 and slightly astringent flavor. Dried Sage is re- 
 tailed in packages, cans and bottles. 
 
 Sage grows wild in many parts of Southern 
 Europe and has long been under cultivation in 
 all the temperate climates. 
 
 'Hops: The Hop plant is a climber, found wild 
 in America, Europe and Asia. It has been culti- 
 vated in Germany since the Ninth Century, and is 
 now also an important crop in the United States, 
 the chief producing sections being New York and 
 the Pacific Coast States. 
 
 It is famous for the property of its blossoms in 
 preserving beer from bacterial action, while also 
 imparting to it an agreeably bitter taste, and it is 
 medicinally valuable as a sedative and narcotic, 
 whether taken internally or applied externally in 
 the form of pillows, fomentation, etc. 
 
 The ancients ate the young Hop shoots as we 
 do asparagus, and this custom is still prevalent 
 in parts of England and Germany. 
 
 The roots of the vine are perennial, the top 
 only dying in the winter. The vines, which twine 
 with the sun, from right to left, are now generally 
 trained on dropwires or strings, or on wire trellis 
 work, the old style poles being employed in com- 
 paratively few sections. 
 
 The blossoms are harvested in the latter part of 
 
 167 
 
August and the beginning of September. They are 
 cured and kiln-dried and then baled. 
 
 In the choice of Hops, care should be taken to 
 select those which are full of lupulin (the essen- 
 tial principal), free from mould, and bright and 
 silky in appearance, that are the most powerfully 
 odorous, and the most free from leaves, stems, 
 scaley fragments and sticks, and which, when 
 rubbed between the hands, impart, in the greatest 
 degree, a yellowish tint, and a glutinous feeling 
 to the skin. It is best also to select those which 
 are tightly packed, as, unless they are very firmly 
 pressed together and quite solid, they soon spoil in 
 keeping. 
 
 Hoarhound, or Horehound: A bushy plant of 
 the Mint family, native to the South of Europe and 
 Eastern countries, growing about a foot high and 
 with round, wrinkled, almost hairy ("hoary") 
 leaves, which contain a bitter principle and vola- 
 tile oil of aromatic, but not very agreeable, smell. 
 
 It is used as a flavor for candy and also in 
 medicinal syrups, for its curative properties for 
 coughs and other affections. 
 
 Garden Balm, Balm Mint, or Lemon Balm: An 
 aromatic herb of the Mint family, with, generally, 
 a marked Lemon odor. It is used chiefly for 
 household culinary purposes and in the manufac- 
 ture of liquors and perfumes. 
 
 Fennel, Common Garden or Sweet Fennel: Is a 
 plant chiefly cultivated for its leaves, which are 
 consumed both fresh, for garnishing, as a salad, 
 etc., and cooked as a vegetable ; in the latter case, 
 generally tied in bunches and boiled with fish and 
 certain other foods. 
 
 It is very popular in Italy, especially in the vicin- 
 ity of Naples. 
 
 The seeds are also used for seasoning. Possiby 
 a slight reminder of Celery. 
 
 168 
 
MINTS, CRESS, LAVENDER AND OTHER 
 HERBS, BERRIES, ETC. 
 
 Lavender: A perennial plant now grown princi- 
 pally for its flowers, which are used in making 
 perfumes or for sale dried for ''sachet bags," etc. 
 It was formerly very popular as a "pot-herb," and 
 is still used for flavoring jellies, etc. 
 
 Mint: A general name for a large number of 
 perennial plants, the best known of which are the 
 Peppermint, Spearmint and Pennyroyal, cultivated 
 chiefly for the essential oil which contains their 
 aromatic and medicinal principles. 
 
 About 90% of the supply of Peppermint and 
 Spearmint oils is produced and distilled in an 
 area which has Kalamazoo, Michigan, for its cen- 
 ter and within a seventy-five mile radius from 
 that city. Their chief uses are in medicine, con- 
 fectionery, chewing-gum, liquors, etc. 
 
 Spearmint leaves are also used for mint sauce 
 and other culinary purposes, and at one time popu- 
 lar, for the flavoring of beverage, such as Mint 
 Juiip. 
 
 Pennyroyal was at one time extensively em- 
 ployed medicinally, but it is now grown only in 
 comparatively small quantities, and is used almost 
 exclusively for seasoning. 
 
 Dried Mint is retailed in packages, bottles and 
 cans. It should always be kept in a dry place. 
 
 Catnip, or Catmint: A field plant growing wild 
 throughout the United States. The leaves and 
 young shoots, aromatic, pungent and more or less 
 bitter, are used for seasoning and as a domestic 
 remedy. 
 
 The leaves are best while the plant is blooming. 
 They may be preserved by drying a few days, 
 being afterward kept in a dry place. 
 
 Everyone is familiar with the pleasure a cat 
 finds in playing with Catnip, and Catnip balls, 
 containing a few pieces, are an article of regular 
 sale. 
 
 169 
 
Rosemary: A plant or shrub of the Mint family, 
 native to the South of Europe and Asia Minor,, 
 now widely cultivated. Its leaves, greyish in color 
 and curled at the edges, are very fragrant and 
 slightly stimulant. They are employed in season- 
 ing and in manufacture of preserves, and are still 
 used to a limited degree in liquors. 
 
 Parsley: A favorite kitchen herb, popular for 
 garnishing and flavoring, for the latter purpose 
 being sold both fresh and dried. Common Parsley 
 is said to be native to Egypt, but is now thoroughly 
 naturalized both here and in several European 
 countries. The variety chiefly grown is the curley- 
 leafed type. The finest received in the eastern 
 markets comes from Bermuda. 
 
 In addition to its flavoring qualities, Parsley 
 contains an essential oil which is mildly stimu- 
 lating. 
 
 Tarragon: A small, aromatic herb used for 
 flavoring vinegar, mustard, pickles, sauces, salads, 
 etc. 
 
 It is sold green and dried, the latter both loose 
 and in cans and bottles. A half pound of green 
 Tarragon will flavor fifty-four gallons of Tarragon 
 vinegar. 
 
 Hyssop: A small, bushy herb with leaves of aro- 
 matic and stimulant properties which grows wild 
 in the South of Europe. The tops and flowers are 
 used in making "Hyssop Tea." 
 
 Juniper Berries: The dark-blue, pungent, aro- 
 matic berries of the evergreen Juniper shrub, com- 
 mercially important formerly because of their use 
 in flavoring gin. 
 
 A nice flavor is given to corned/ beef by adding 
 a muslin bagful of crushed Juniper Berries to the 
 brine. 
 
 Hackberry or Sugarberry: The fruit of the Net- 
 tle Tree. It is of pleasing sweetness and aromatic 
 flavor, and, like the American persimmon, is at its 
 best after it has been touched by frost. 
 
 Cress or Pepper Grass: Applicable to a number 
 
 170 
 
of pungent, flavored plants of the Mustard family, 
 used as a condiment for garnishing and in salads. 
 The leaves of the common variety are divided and 
 frequently curled. Those of the broad-leaf type are 
 slightly nochted on the edges. 
 
 It is generally sown with Mustard. Rape is 
 frequently used instead of Mustard, however, many 
 people preferring it, the flavor being less pungent, 
 the leaves are stiffer and keep fresh longer. 
 
 Water-Cress: An aquatic plant of pungent, 
 salty and rather bitter flavor, which is especially 
 popular as a spring salad. It grows wild in. many 
 parts, flourishing best in running water, with sandy 
 bottoms. 
 
 Water-Cress offers itself as a pleasant means of 
 providing the body with a goo^ supply of natural 
 salts. It is more generally endowed with the 
 natural salts in addition to potash and acids. 
 
 Angelica: An aromatic plant, native to the 
 Alps, which grows wild in Europe, as far North 
 as Iceland and Lapland. 
 
 The natives of the latter country use the fleshy 
 roots as food and the stalks as medicine. Com- 
 mercially, the young and tender leaf stalks and 
 midribs are candied for sale as confectionery, and 
 the roots and seeds have always been employed 
 extensively to flavor gin. 
 
 Mugwort: A tall, perennial herb with woolly 
 leaves^ formerly popular, dried or fresh, as a sea- 
 soning and for flavoring beverages. 
 
 Chervil: A highly esteemed garden herb grown 
 in all temperate climates, and very popular in the 
 South. It is similar to Parsley, the curled being 
 even handsomer. 
 
 Chervil Bilbur, or Turnip-Rooted Chervil, is a 
 French variety grown for its roots, which resemble 
 the Parsnip in shape and color. It is a very desir- 
 able vegetable, the flesh being sweet and delicate 
 in flavor and almost floury in texture. 
 
 171 
 
DULSE AND OTHER SEA WEEDS 
 
 Laver: An edible seaweed found both on the 
 Atlantic and Pacific Coasts. It is a food item of 
 importance in Asia^ and in some parts of Europe. 
 
 In Scotland and Ireland, under the name of 
 "Sloak" or '*Slook," it is boiled and served with 
 hutter, pepper and vinegar, etc., or fried' in bacon 
 fat after boiling. It is especially good as an ac- 
 companiment for cold meats. 
 
 It is best to cook it in a porcelain sauce-pan, as 
 it is liable to act on metals. 
 
 Laver is rich in protein, averaging from 30% to 
 35%. 
 
 Green Sloke: A green-spored seaweed of the 
 same type as Laver. 
 
 Dulse: An edible seaweed growing on the 
 coasts of Scotland, Ireland and Japan. It also 
 grows abundantly on the New England and New- 
 foundland coasts. What is said to be the best 
 Dulse known is gathered at considerable risk and 
 hazard near Hampton, Nova Scotia, on the Bay of 
 Fundy, found principally on the South Shore on all 
 rocky reefs from Digby Gut to Cape Blomidon. 
 
 It is found at the extreme low- water mark, fas- 
 tened securely to the rocks, and can only be gath- 
 ered at a duration of about thirty or forty minutes, 
 or during extremely low tide. 
 
 Many lives have been los.t in the occupation of 
 gathering Dulse on Fundy Bay by inexperienced 
 pickers, gathering in the Coves, and on trying to 
 return find themselves entirely cut off by water. 
 
 The plant is a dark reddish brown, tough and 
 leathery, and is very slippery and slimey when 
 gathered. 
 
 After gathering, it is washed thoroughly in salt 
 water and hung up and brushed with a broom, 
 and then layed on boards in the sun to cure. 
 Great care should be used not to allow rain or fog 
 to touch the crop while curing, and usually takes 
 about ninety-six hours of sun to properly cure it. 
 
 172 
 
It is impossible in the Nova Scotia climate to cure 
 Dulse only in the Summer months. 
 
 The demand is much greater than the supply, 
 and sells on the Boston market at from 50 cents 
 tq $1.00 per pound. 
 
 The leaves are from two to four inches wide, 
 and often reach a length of twenty feet and more. 
 
 Dulse is eaten dry as a relish, cooked with butter 
 to be eaten with fish, etc., or boiled in milk to be 
 served as a vegetable. 
 
 Carragheen, Irish Moss, Pearl Moss: A species 
 of edible seaweed named after the town of Carra- 
 gheen, near Waterford, Ireland, found on the Brit- 
 ish Islands, the rocky shores of continental Eu' 
 rope and the Eastern Shores of the United States 
 and Canada. Similar varieties abound also on 
 other parts of the American coast. 
 
 The Carragheen of domestic use is obtained 
 principally from New Hampshire and Massachu- 
 setts, the harvest season there extending from 
 May to September. 
 
 After gathering, the plants undergo the same 
 treatment and prepojUation given Dulse, being 
 washed in salt water, brushed and cleaned and 
 spread on the beach or boards to dry. 
 
 As marketed. Carragheen is in pieces three to 
 four inches to a foot long, flexible and branching. 
 Reddish-brown to pale yellow color, almost white. 
 
 Kelp or Bladder Weed: An edible seaweed dis- 
 tinguished by its streamer-like leaves, found on 
 both Northern coasts. The largest variety, known 
 as Giant Bladder Weed, has leaves which average 
 thirty to forty feet in length, used in soups, for 
 service with meals, etc., and boiled as a vegetable. 
 
 173 
 
HORSERADISH, ALSO PLANTS OF THE ONION 
 FAMILY 
 
 Wasabi: A Japanese plant whose root is grated 
 for use like American Horseradish. It has an 
 agreebly sharp taste, is being grown to a limited 
 extent in the United) States. 
 
 Horseradish: A plant allied to the Nasturtium 
 or Cress family, naturalized in most temperate 
 countries. It is grown for its white, fleshy, pun- 
 gent roots, which arq generally grated and mixed 
 with vinegar for use as a relish or condiment with 
 meats, oysters, etc. 
 
 When grated, should be kept in air-tight jars 
 or bottles, as it loses its strength and pungency 
 rapidly; always keep in a dark, cool place. 
 
 The roots may be left in the ground all Winter 
 and dug as needed. After digging, they may be 
 kept fresh for a considerable time by covering in 
 cool sand or light soil. 
 
 Chives, or Cives: A plant of the Onion family, 
 cultivated for its leaves, which grow in tufts re- 
 sembling grass in appearance, but hollow like 
 Onion leaves. It is a good substitute for Onions, 
 especially in soups and stews. 
 
 Garlic: A vegetable similar to a small Onion, 
 but with the bulb divided into ten or twelve sec- 
 tions known as "Cloves." At certain seasons it 
 abounds in many pastures, and imparts a very 
 rank flavor to the milk and butter of cows which 
 feed on it. Its main use in cookery is to flavor 
 soups and sauces, and in salads, pickles, etc. 
 
 (Leek: A form of Onion cultiavted for the 
 blanched lower parts of the leaves, commonly 
 called the "stem," and the bulbulous roots, both 
 of which are used in cookery, chiefly in soups and 
 stews. In flavor they resemble a very mild ordi- 
 nary onion. 
 
 Clbol or Welsh Onion: A member of the Onion 
 family, which is grown principally for its leaves; 
 of mild onion flavor, used for seasoning, etc. 
 
 174 
 
Shallot or Seal lion: A spice vegetable of the 
 Onion tribe, of stronger but more mellow flavor 
 than the common Onion; used for flavoring, sauces, 
 stews, etc. 
 
 The true Shallot ranges in size from a walnut to 
 a small fig, is inclined to pear-shape, and has a 
 thick outer skin shading from reddish to gray, the 
 bulb underneath being greenish at the base and 
 violet on the upper portion. It grows in ''Clove" 
 form, several cloves attached to a common disc. 
 
 New Shallots come on the market in June, but 
 the dried is most popular and may be kept all 
 year. The young leaves are used for seasoning. 
 
 i'/b 
 
COUMARIN 
 The Flavoring Principal of the Tonka Bean 
 
 Tonka, or Tonqua Bean: The dark, aromatic 
 seed of the fruit of Coumarouna-Odorato, a South 
 American tree. 
 
 The essential principal, known as Coumarin, is 
 a white substance found in small white crystals, 
 under the coat and between the lobes. Because 
 of its similarity in aroma, Tonka Beans, or the 
 extracted Coumarin, are frequently employed in 
 the manufacture of imitation Vanilla Extract, and 
 while they are heavier and somewhat coarser in 
 flavor, and their commercial value not nearly so 
 great as even the commoner Vanilla Bean, they, 
 however, properly handled, make a most wonder- 
 ful substitute or imitation, in fact, the average 
 layman could not distinguish the true from the 
 imitation. 
 
 They are also used extensively for perfuming 
 and flavoring smoking and chewing tobacco. 
 
 They; are also placed in wardrobes and trunks. 
 They impart a pleasing odor and preserve cloths 
 from moths. 
 
 Coumarin is also found in Woodruff, Sweet 
 Cloves and several other plants, and is manufac- 
 tured synthetically in considerable quantities. 
 
 Lemon Oil: For many years almost the entire 
 supply of the Oil of the Lemon rind was produced 
 in Sicily, and is still obtained largely by hand 
 processes, the small factory output, which is dark- 
 er in appearance, being principally employed to 
 heighten the color of the hand-made oil. 
 
 The two most widely used methods are known 
 as the **two-piece sponge" and the "three-piece 
 sponge," the distinction referring to the number 
 of pieces into which the rind is cut. 
 
 The former method generally produces oil with 
 the smallest percentage of water to be afterwards 
 separated, but that from the latter method is said 
 to filter more rapidly and keep clean longer. 
 
 For the three-piece method, the lemons are cut 
 
 176 
 
lengthwise into three slices (the pulp is first re- 
 moved), the juice to be expressed and sold to the 
 manufacturers of Citric Acid, and the residue to 
 be used as animal food, and then the peel is put 
 into large baskets and stored in a cool place for 
 some hours until it is considered in the proper 
 condition for pressing. 
 
 Each workman engaged in extracting the oil 
 has in front of him a tin-lined copper bowl, and 
 hojds in his left hand a medium-sized sponge of 
 superfine quality, which has previously been very 
 carefully washed. He also holds other small 
 sponges between the fingers of the same hand to 
 prevent the loss of any of the oil, which is very 
 volatile. With the right hand he takes a piece of 
 the peel from the basket and squeezes it against 
 the sponge, thus forcing the oil through the pores 
 of the rind into the sponge. When the sponge is 
 full of essence, it is squeezed into the bowl. 
 
 In order to make sure that the peel has yielded 
 all the essence that can be pressed out by hand, 
 the overseer from time to time tests the rejected 
 peel by squeezing it close to a flame. If there is 
 any essence left, it is forced through the flame 
 and produces a flash of light. (Children often try 
 the same experiment with orange peels.) The 
 used peel is put into brine and sold to manufac- 
 turers of "Candied Lemon Peel." 
 
 When the bowls are full they are set aside for 
 a short time, to permit the impurities to settle 
 and then the contents are carefully decanted, the 
 clear essence going into large tin-lined copper 
 vessels. Before shipment, the product is passed 
 through filter paper to purify it and give it lim- 
 pidity, and is finally transferred to copper bottles 
 of various standard sizes. 
 
 The quantity and quality of essence yielded 
 varies according to the season. During November, 
 December and January, when the greater part of 
 the supply is manufactured, one thousand lemons 
 will give about one and a halfpounds of essence. 
 
 177 
 
Lemons not fully ripe are preferred, as they 
 yield a larger quantity and a more fragrant quality 
 than those fully matured. A small amount of 
 essence is made during the spring and summer, 
 but the product lacks the delicate fragrance of 
 that made in the winter. 
 
 'California, within the last few years, has de- 
 veloped into a great producer of high-grade Lemon 
 Ojl of excellent quality and considerable quantity. 
 The methods employed are more modern than the 
 forejgoing. Machinery enters laijrgely, into the 
 manufacture and has aided materially in giving 
 us a good quality of Lemon Oil at a much lower 
 price than we were formerly compelled to pay. 
 
 Vanillin or Vanilline: Unofficial Vanillas are 
 those which, coming from the ofiicial plant, do 
 not yet correspond with the ofiicial description, 
 and also have some derived from other species. 
 
 To the former class belong the Splits and Cuts 
 (often referred to in articles on the original) as 
 well as several dark-skinned varieties, apparently 
 from wild plants, called in the native Cimmarona, 
 Mestiza, Puerca, etc. 
 
 To the latter class belong the Pompona, derived 
 from Pompona Scheide, wild and uncultivated in 
 the same region as the other, and believed by 
 the natives to be the ancestor of P I an if o Ma, they 
 regarding the latter as a cultivation derived from 
 one or more uncultivated species. 
 
 The pods of both are short, thick, rough and 
 tough, and the odor rankly fruity, or pruney, in 
 the latter respect quite resembling the Tahiti 
 variety. 
 
 Vanillin has been reported in the flowers of 
 several Orchidaceoe. It has also been reported 
 in the fruits of one or more plants of the same 
 family. 
 
 For commercial purposes, Vanillin is manufac- 
 tured on a large scale, both in this country and 
 abroad. 
 
 178 
 
FIGURING YOUR PROFITS 
 
 Ask the man you meet casually on the street 
 tomorrow if 20% added to cost does not yield 20% 
 profit. Ten to one, he will say "Yes." But it 
 doesn't. Profit is rightly figured only on sales, 
 says all commercial authorities. 
 
 To gain 20% you must add 25% to cost. The 
 following schedule is worth copying and pasting up 
 somewhere within easy sight and reach of the 
 place where you work longest and hardest. It is 
 absolutely accurate, and it will save you many a 
 needless calculation: 
 
 Pet. Added Pet. Profit on 
 
 to Cost. Selling Price. 
 
 5 is 4% 
 
 TVa is 7 
 
 10 is 9 
 
 12y2 is 11% 
 
 15 is , 13 
 
 16 Is UV4, 
 
 IIV2 is 15 
 
 20 is 16 2/3 
 
 25 is 20 
 
 30 is 23 
 
 331/3 is 25 
 
 35 is 26 
 
 371/0 is 27^ 
 
 40 is 281/^ 
 
 45 is 31 
 
 50 Is 331/3 
 
 55 is 35y2 
 
 60 is 371/2 
 
 65 is 39y2 
 
 66 2/3 is 40 
 
 70 is ....41 
 
 75 is 42 2/3 
 
 80 is 441/2 
 
 85 is 46 
 
 90 is 47% 
 
 100 is 50 
 
 179 
 
TEA: The aristocratic household beverage for 
 centuries. 
 
 COFFEE: The most democratic of drinks. It 
 appeals alike to rich and poor — to men and 
 women. No home so humble it cannot afford 
 ■Coffee. No mansion so grand it can dispense with 
 it. Everybody drinks Coffee. 
 
 SPICE: The world's appetizer for Ages. 
 
 18U 
 
UNIVERSITY OF CALIFORNIA LIBRARY 
 
LIGHT