WmMmmmmM '>i\^m\ '.I ' m THE WORKS OF THE RIGHT HONOURABLE LADY MARY WORTLEY MONTAGU. INCLUDING HER CORRESPONDENCE, POEMS, AND ESSAYS. PUBLISHED BY PERMISSION FROM HER GENUINE PAPERS. IN FIVE VOLUMES. VOL. III. LONDON: PRINTED FOR RICHARD PHILLIPS, No. 71, St. Paul's Church-yard. 1S03. a J * i J T, Davison, Printer, Wliitu-triars. 4 f VOLUME THE THIRD. CONTAINING LETTERS I. DURING MR. WORTLEY'S EMBASSY ; II. TO THE COUNTESS OF MAR, AT PARIS ; III. TO MR. WORTLEY. 187490 L £ T T £ 11 S DUUING .MR. AVORTLEY'S EMBASSY. TO THE COUNTESS OF BRISTOL, 1 AM now preparing to leave Constan- tinople, and perhaps you will accuse me of hypocrisy when I tell you 'tis with regret ; but as I am used to the air, and have learnt the language, I am easy here ; and as much as I love travelling, I tremble at the inconveniences attend- ing so great a journey with a numerous family, and a little infant hanging at the breast. Oiowever I endeavour upon this occasion to do as I have hitherto done VOL. III. B 2 LETTERS DURING in all the odd turns of my life; turn them, if I can, to my diversion^ In order to this, I ramble every day, wrap- ped up in my ferigee and asmack, about Constantinople, and amuse myself with seeing all that is curious in it. I know you m ill expect that this de- claration should be followed with some account of what I have seen. But I am in no humour to copy Avhat has been writ so often over. To what purpose should I tell you that Constantinople is the an- cient Byzantium ? that 'tis at present the conquest of a race of people, supposed Scythians ? that there are five or six thou- sand mosques in it? that Sancta Sophia was founded by Justinian ? &c. I'll as- sure you 'tis not for want of learning that I forbear writing all these bright things. I could also, with very little trouble, turn over Knolles and sir Paul Rycaut, to give you a list of Turkish emperors; but I will not tell you what you ma,y find in every author that has writ of this MR. wortley's embassy. 3 coimtiy. I am more inclined, out of a true female spirit of contradiction, to tell you the falsehood of a great part of what you find in authors; as, for instance, in the admirable Mr. Hiir, who so grave- ly asserts, that he saw in Sancta Sophia a sweating pillar, very balsamic for dis- ordered heads. Tliere is not the least' tradition of any such matter ; and I sup- pose it was revealed to him in vision dur- ing his wonderful stay in the Egyptian (Catacombs ; for I am sure he never heard of any such miracle here. 'Tis also very pleasant to observe how ^ Aaron Hill travelled to Constantinople at the age )f fifteen, and was received with kindness by his •elative lord Paget, at that time our embassador to the *orte. He returned to England in 1703 in the uite, and soon afterward published his " Account >f Turkey," in folio, a very crude and juvenile per- ormance. He lived, however, to write Zara and /Terope, tragedies ; which still keep their place on he English stage. B 2 4 LETTERS DURING tenderly he and all his brethren voyage* writers lament the miserable confinement of the Turkish ladies, who are perhaps more free than any ladies in the universe, and are the only women in the world that lead a life of uninterrupted pleasure ex- empt from cares ; their whole time being spent in visiting, bathing, or the agree- able amusement of spending money, and inventing new fashions. A husband would be thought mad that exacted any degree of economy from his wife, whose expences are no way limited but by her own fancy. 'Tis his business to get money, and hers to spend it : and this noble prerogative extends itself to the very meanest of the sex. Here is a fel- low that carries embroidered handker- chiefs upon his back to sell. And, as miserable a figure as you may suppose such a mean dealer, yet I'll assure you his wife scorns to wear any thing less than cloth of gold ; has her ermine furs, MR. WORTLEY S EMBASSY. 5 and a very handsome set of jewels for her head. 'Tis true they have no places but the bagnios, and these can only be seen by their own sex ; however, that is a diversion they take great pleasure in. I was three davs ai>o at one of the finest in the town, and had the opportu- nity of seeing a Turkish bride received there, and all the ceremony used on that occasion, which made me recollect the epithalamium of Helen, by Theocritus ; and it seems to me, that the same cus- toms have continued ever since. All the she-friends, relations, and acquaintance of the two families, newly allied, meet at the bagnio ; several others go out of curiosity, and I believe there were that day two hundred women. Those that were or had been married placed them- selves round the rooms on the marble so- fas ; but the virgins ver}'^ hastily threw oif their clothes, and appeared without other ornament or covering than their LETTERS DURING own long hair braided with pearl or rib- bon. Two of them met the bride at the door, conducted by lier mother and an- other irrave relation. She was a beauti- ful maid of about seventeen, very richly dressed, and shining with jewels, but was presently reduced to the state of nature. Two otliers filled silver gilt pots with perfume, and began the procession, the rest following in pairs, to the number of thirty. The leaders sung an epithala- niium, answered by the others in chorus, and the two last led the fair bride, her eyes fixed on the ground, with a charm- ing affectation of modesty. In this order they marched round the three largest rooms of the bagnio. 'Tis not easy to represent to you the beauty of this sight, most of them being mcII proportioned and white skinned ; all of them perfectly smooth and polished by the frequent use of bathing. After having made their tour, the bride was again led to eveiy MR. wortley's embassy. 7 matron round the rooms, who saluted Jier with a comphment and a present, some of jewels, others of pieces of stuiF, handkerchiefs, or little gallantries of that nature, which she thanked them for, by kissing their hands. I was very well pleased with having seen this ceremony ; and, you may be- • lieve me, the Turkish ladies have at least as much wit and civility, nay liberty, as among us. 'Tis true the same customs that give them so many opportunities of gratifying their evil inclinations (if they have any), also put it very fully in the power of their husbands to revenge them- selves if they are discovered ; and I do not doubt but they suffer sometimes for their indiscretions in a very severe man- ner. About two months ago, there Avas found at day break, not very far from my house, the bleeding body of a young woman, naked, only wrapped in a coarse sheet, with two wounds of a knife, one 8 LETTERS DURING in her side, and another in her breast. She was not qnite cold, and was so sur- prisingly beautiful, that there were very few men in Pera that did not go to look upon her ; but it was not possible for any body to know her, no woman's face being known. She was supposed to have been brought in the dead of the night from the Constantinople side and laid there. Very little en(juiry was made about the murderer, and the corpse was privately buried without noise. JNIurder is never pursued by the king's officers as with us. 'Tis the business of the next relations to revenge the dead person ; and if they like better to compound the matter for money (as they generally do), there is no more said of it. One would imagine this defect in their government should make such tragedies veryfrequent, A'et they are extremely rare; which is enough to prove the people are not na- turally cruel. Neither do I think in MR. WORTLEY's tMBASSY. 9 many other particulars they deserve the barbarous character we give them. I am well acquainted with a Christian woman of quality who made it her choice to hve with a Turkish husband, and is a very agreeable sensible lady. Her story is so extraordinary, I cannot forbear relating it; but I promise you it shall be in as few words as I can possibly express it. She is a Sj)aniard, and was at Naples with her family when that kingdom v/as part of the Spanish dominion. Coming from thence in a felucca, accompanied by her brother, they were attacked by the Turkish admiral, boarded, and taken. . And now, how shall I modestly tell you the rest of her adventure ? The same accident happened to her (hat hap{)cned to the fair Lucretia so many years before her. But she was too good a Christian to kill herself, as that heathenish Roman did. The admiral was so much charmed with the beauty and long-suifering of 10 LETTERS DURING the fair captive, that, as his first compli- ment, he gave immediate liherty to her brother and attendants, Avho made haste to Spain, and in a few months sent the sum of four thousand pounds sterhng as a ransom for liis sister. The Turk took tlie money, which he presented to her, and told her she was at liberty. But the lady very discreetly weighed the differ- ent treatment she was likely to find in her native country. Her relations (as the kindest thing they could do for her in her present circumstances) would cer- tainly confine her to a nunnery for the rest of her days. Her infidel lover was very handsome, very tender, veiy fond of her, and lavished at her feet all the Turkish magnificence. Sheansweied him very resolutely, that her liberty was not so precious to her as her honour ; that he could no way restore that but by marry- ing her; and she therefore desired him to accept the ransom as her portion, and MR. wortley's embassy. 11 give her the satisfaction of knowing, that no man could boast of her favours with- out being her liusband. Tlie admiral M^as transported at this kind oifer, and sent back the money to her relations, saying, he was too happy in her posses- sion. He married her, and never took any other wife, and (as she says herself) she never had reason to repent the choice she made. He left her some years after one of the richest widows in Constanti- nople. But there is no remaining ho- nourably a single woman, and that con- sideration has obliged her to marry the present captain pasha (/. e. admiral), his successor. — I am afraid that you will think my friend fell in love with lier ra- visher; but I am willing to take her Avord for it, that she acted wholly on principles of honour, though I think she might be reasonably touched at liis ge- nerosity, which is often found among the Turks of rank. 12 LETTERS DURING 'Tis a degree of generosity to tell the truth, and 'tis very rare that any Turk will assert a solemn falsehood. I don't speak of the lowest sort ; for as there is a great deal of ignorance, tliere is very little virtue amongst them; and false witnesses are much cheaper than in Christendom, those wretches not heing punished (even when they are puhlicly detected) with the rigour they ought to be. Now I am speaking of their law, I don't know whether I have ever men- tioned to you one custom peculiar to their country, I mean adoption, very common amongst the Turks, and yet more amongst the Greeks and Arme- nians. Not having it in their power to give their estates to a friend or distant relation, to avoid its falling into the grand-signior's treasury, when they are not likely to have any children of their own, they choose some pretty child of MR. WORTLEY's embassy. I'i 'either sex among the meanest people, and carry the child and its parents before the cadi, and there declare tliey receive it for their heir. The parents at the same time renounce all future claim to it; a writing is drawn and witnessed, and a child thus adopted cannot be dis- inherited. Yet I have seen some com- mon beggars that have refused to part with their children in this manner to some of the richest amons; the Greeks (so powerful is the instinctive affection that is natural to parents), though the adopting fathers are generally very ten- der to these children of' their souls, as they call them. I own this custom pleases me much better than our absurd one of fol- lowing our name. Methinks 'tis much more reasonable to make happy and rich an infant whom I educate after my own manner, brought up (in the Turkish phrase) upon my knees, and who has learn- ed to look upon me Avith a filial respect. il LETTERS DURING than to give an estate to a creature, with- out other merit or relation to me than that of a few letters. Yet this is an ab- surdity we see frequently practised. Now I have mentioned the Armenians, perhaps it will be agreeable to tell you something of that nation, with Avhich I am sure you are utterly unacquainted. I will not trouble you with the geographi- cal account of the situation of their country, which you may see in the maps, or a relation of their ancient greatness, which you may read in the Roman his- tory. They are now subject to the Turks ; and, being very industrious in trade, and increasing and multiplying, are dispersed in great numbers through all the Turkish dominions. They were, as they say, converted to the Christian religion by St. Gregory, and are perhaps the devoutcst Christians in the whole world. The chief precepts of their priests enjoin the strict keeping of their lents, MR. wortley's embassy, 15 which are at least seven months in every year, and are not to be dispensed with on the most emergent necessity ; no occa- sion whatever can excuse them, if they touch any thing more than mere herbs or roots (without oil) and plain dry bread. That is their constant diet. Mr. Wort- ley has one of his interpreters of this na- tion; and the poor fellow was brought so low by the severity of liis fasts, that his life was despaired of. Yet neither his master's commands, nor tlie doctor's en- treaties (who declared nothing else could save his life), were powerful enough to prevail with him to take two or three spoonfuls of broth. Excepting this, AV'hich may rather be called a custom than an article of faith, I see very little in their religion different from ours. 'Tis true they seem to incline very much to Mr. Whiston's doctrine; neither do I think the Greek church very distant from it, since 'tis certain the holy Spirit's pro- 16 LETTERS DURING ceecling- o;?/j/ from the Father, is making a plain subordination in the Son. But the Armenians have no notion of tran- substantiation, whatever account sir Paul Rycaut gives of them (which account I am apt to beheve was designed to com- phment our court in 1679) ; and they have a great horror for those amongst them that change to the Roman religion. What is most extraordinary in their customs, is their matrimony ; a cere- mony I beheve unparallel'd all over the world. They are always promised very young ; but the espoused never see one another till three days after their mar- riage. The bride is carried to church with a cap on her head, in the fashion of a large trencher, and over it a red silken veil which covers her all over to her feet. The priest asks the bi idegroom. Whether he is contented to marry that woman, be ahe deaf, be she blind ? These are the lite- ral words : to which having answered. MR. wortley's embassy. 17 yes, slie is led home to his house, accom- })anied with all the tVieiids and relations on both sides, singing and daneing, and is placed on a cushion in the corner of the sofa ; but her veil is never lifted up, not even by her hnsband. There is some- thing so odd and monstrous in these ways, that I could not believe them till I had enquired of several Armenians my- self, who all assured me of the truth of them, particularly one young fellow, who wept when he spoke of it, being promised by his mother to a girl that he must many in this manner, though he pro- tested to me, he had rather die than sub- mit to this slavery, having already figured his bride to himself with all the deform- ities of nature. I fancy I see you bless yourself at this tenible relation. I cannot conclude my letter with a more surprising story; yet 'tis as seriously true, as that I am, Dear sister, yours, &c. &c. VOL. III. c is LETTERS DURING TO THE ABBE . Constantinople, May Ip, O. S. 1718. I AM extremely pleased with hearing from you, and my vanity (the darling frailty of mankind) not a little flattered by the uncommon cjuestions you ask me, though I am utterly incapable of an- swering them. And, indeed, Avere I as good a mathematician as Euclid him- self, it requires an age's stay to make just observations on the air and vapours. I have not been yet a full year here, and am on the point of removing. Such is my rambling destiny. This Avill surprise you, and can surprise nobody so much as myself. Perhaps you will accuse me of laziness, or dulness, or both together, that can leave this place without giving you some MR. WORTLEY's embassy. 19 account of the Turkisli court. I can only tell you, that if you please to read sir Paul Rycaut, you will there find a full and true account of the vizier's, the beglerbeys\ the civil and spiritual govern- ment, the officers of the seraglio, &c., things that 'tis very easy to procure lists of, and therefore may he depended on ; though other stories, God knows 1 say no more every body is at liberty to write their own remarks ; the manners of people may change, or some of them escape the observation of travellers, but 'tis not the same of the government ; and, for that reason, since I can tell you no- thing new, I will tell you nothing of it. In the same silence shall be passed over the arsenal and seven tOA^ers; and for mosques, I have already described one of the noblest to you very particu- larlv. But I cannot forbear takincr no- tice to you of a mistake of GemelJi (though I honour him in a much higher c 2 20 LETTERS DURING degree than any other voyage writer) : he savs that there are no reinahis of Cal- cedon; this is certainly a mistake: I was there yesterday, and went cross the canal in my galley, the sea heing very narrow between that city and Constantinople. 'Tis still a large town, and has several mosques in it. The Christians still call it Calcedonia, and the Turks give it a name I forgot, but whicii is only a cor- ruption of the same word'. I suppose this is an error of his guide, which his short stay hindered him from rectifying ; for I have, in other matters, a very just esteem for his veracity. Nothing can be pleasanter than the canal ; and the Turks are so well acquainted with its beauties, that all their pleasure-seats are built on its banks, where they have, at the same time, the most beautifid pro- spects in Europe and Asia; there are ' Cadykuy, or the Town of Judges, from the great Christian council held there. MR. wortley's embassy. 21 near one another some hundreds of mag- nificent palaces. Human grandeur being here yet more unstable than any-where else, 'tis com- mon for the hen-s of a great three- tailed pasha not to be rich enough to keep in repair the house he built ; thus, in a few years, they all fall to ruin. 1 was yester- day to see that of the late grand- vizier, who was killed at Peterwaradin. It was built to receive his royal bride, daughter of the present sultan, but he did not live to see her there. I have a great mind to describe it to you ; but I check that inclination, knowing very well that I cannot give you, with my best descrip- tion, such an idea of it as I ought. It is situated on one of the most delightful parts of the canal, with a fine wood on the side of a hill behind it. The extent of it is prodigious; the guardian assured me there are eight hundred rooms in it ; I will not, however, answer for that num- ber, since I did not count them; but 'tis 22 LETTERS DURING certain the number is very large, and the whole adorned with a profusion of mar- ble, gilding, and the most exquisite paint- ing of fruit and flowers. The \vindows are all sashed with the finest crystalline glass brought from England; and here is all the expensive magnificence that you can suppose in a palace founded by a vain luxurious young man, with the Avealth of a vast empire at his command. But no part of it pleased me better than the apartments destined for the bagnios. There are two built exactly in the same manner, answering to one another ; the baths, fountains, and pavements, all of white marble, the roofs gilt, and the walls covered with Japan china. Adjoining to them are two rooms, the uppermost of which is divided into a sofa, and in the four corners are falls of water from the very roof, from shell to shell, of white marble, to the lower end of the room, where it falls into a large basin, sur- rounded with pipes, that throw up the MR. wortley's embassy. 23 water as high as the roof. The walls are in the nature of lattices ; and, on the outside of them, there are vines and woodbines planted, that form a sort of green tapestry, and give an agreeable ob- scurity to those delightful chambers. I should go on and let you into some of the other apartments (all worthy your curiosity) ; but 'tis yet harder to describe a Turkish palace than any other, being built entirely irregular. There is no- thing that can be properly called front or wings; and though such a confusion is, I think, pleasing to the sight, yet it would be very unintelligible in a letter. I shall only add, that the chamber de- stined for the sultan, when he visits his daughter, is wainscotted with mother of pearl fastened with emeralds like nails. There are others of mother of pearl and olive wood inlaid, and several of Japan china. The galleries, which are numerous and very large, are adorned 24 - LETTERS DURING . with jars of flowers, and porcelain dishes of fruit of all sorts, so well done in plaster, and coloured in so lively a manner, that it has an enchanting effect. The garden is suitable to the house, where arbours, fountains, and walks, are thrown toge- ther in an agreeable confusion. There is no ornament wanting, except that of statues. Thus, you see, sir, these peo- ple are not so unpolished as we represent them. 'Tis true their magnificence is of a very different taste from ours, and per- haps of a better. \ I am almost of opinion they have a right notion of life. They consume it in music, gardens, wine, and delicate eating, while we are tormenting our brains with some scheme of politics, or studying some science to which we can never attain, or, if we do, cannot persuade other people to set that value upon it we do ourselves. 'Tis certain what we feel and see is properly (if any thing is properly) our own ; but tlie MR. wortley's embassy. 25 good of fame, the folly of praise, are hardly purchased, and, when obtained, a poor recompence for loss of time and health. We die or grow old before we can reap the fruit of our labours. Con- siderino- what short-liv'd weak animals men are, is there any study so benelicial as the study of present pleasure rjl dare not pursue this theme ; perhaps I have already said too much, but I depend up- on the true knowledge you hav^ of my heart. I don't expect from you. the in- sipid railleries I should suffer from an- other in answer to this letter. You know how to divide the idea of pleasure from that of vice, and they are only mingled in the heads of fools. But I allow you to laugh at me for the sensual de- claration in saying, that 1 had rather be a rich cffendi with all his ignorance, than sir Isaac Newton with all his knowledge. I am, sir, «Scc. &c. 2-6 LETTERS DURING TO THE ABBE Tunis, July 31, O. S, 17 IS. I LEFT Constantinople the sixth of the last month, and this is the first post from M'hence I could send a letter, though I have often wished for the opportunity, that I might impart some of the pleasure I found in this voyage through the most agreeable part of the world, where every scene presents me some poetical idea. Warm'd with poetic transport I survey Th' immortal islands, and the well-known sea. For here so oft the muse her harp has strung. That not a mountain rears its head unsung. I beg your pardon for this sally, and will, if I can, continue the rest of my ac- count in plain prose. The second day after we set sail we passed Gallipolis, a fair city, situated in the bay of Cherso- MR. wortley's embassy. 27 nesus, and much respected by the Turks, being the first town they took in Europe. At five the next morning we anchored in the Hellespont, between the castles of Sestos and Abydos, now called the Dar- danelli. These are now two little an- cient castles, but of no strength, being commanded by a rising ground behind them, which I confess I should never have taken notice of. if I had not heard it observed by our captain and officers, my imagination being wholly employed bv the trao;ic storv that vou are well ac- quainted with: v The swimming lover, and the nightly bride. How Hero lov'd, and how Leander died. Verse airain I — I am certainly infected by the poetical air I have passed through. That of x\bvdos is undoubtedly very amorous, since that soft passion betrayed the castle into the hands of the Turks who besieged it in the reign of Orchanes. 28 LETTERS DURING The governor's daughter imagining to have seen her future husband in a dream (though I don't find she had either slept upon bride-cake, or kept St. Agnes's fast), fancied she saw the dear figure in the form of one of her besiegers ; and, being M'ilHng to obey her destiny, tossed a note to liim over the wall, with the ofter of her person, and the delivery of the castle. He shewed it to his general, who consented to try the sincerity of her intentions, and withdrew his army, order- ing the young man to return with a select body of men at midnight. She admitted him at the appointed hour; he destroyed the garrison, took the father prisoner, and made her his wife. This town is in Asia, first founded by the Milesians. Sestos is in Europe, and was once the principal city of Chersonesus. Since I have seen this strait, I find no- thing improbable in the adventure of Leander, or very wonderful in the bridge MR. wortley's embassy. 29 of boats of Xerxes. 'Tis so narrow, 'tis not surprising a young lover should at- tempt to swim, or an ambitious king try to pass his army over it. But then 'tis so subject to storms, 'tis no wonder the lover perished, and the bridge was broken. From hence we had a full view of mount Ida, Where Juno once caress'd her am'rous Jove, And the world's master lay subdu'd by love. Not many leagues sail from hence, I saw the point of land where poor old Hecuba was buried ; and about a league from that place is Cape Janizary, the famous pro- montory of Siga^um, where we anchored. My curiosity supplied me with strength to climb to the top of it to see the place where Achilles was buried, and where Alexander ran naked round his tomb in honour of him, M'hich no doubt was a great comfort to his ghost. I saw there the ruins of a very large city, and found a stone, on which Mr. Wortley plainly distinguished the words of ZirAIAN 30 LETTERS DURING nOAIN. We ordered this on board the ship ; but ^yere shewed others much more curious by a Greek priest, though a very ignorant fellow, that could give no to- lerable account of any thing. On each side the door of this little church lie two large stones, about ten feet long each, five in breadth, and three in thickness. That on the right is a very fine white marble, the side of it beautifully carved in bas-relief; it represents a woman, who seems to be designed for some deity, sit- ting on a chair with a footstool, and be- fore her another woman Meeping, and presenting to her a young child that she has in her arms, followed bj' a procession of women with children in the same man- ner. This is certainly part of a very an- cient tomb ; but I dare not pretend to give the true explanation of it. On the stone, on the left side, is a very fair in- scription ; but the Greek is too ancient for Mr. Wortley's interpretation. I am verv sorry not to have the ori^-inal in mv MR. wortley's embassy. 31 possession, which might have been pur- chased of the poor inhabitants for a small sum of money. But our captain assured us, that without having machines made on purpose, 'twas impossible to bear it to the sea-side ; and, M'hen it was there, his long-boat would not be large enough to hold it \ The ruins of this great city are now in- habited by poor Greek peasants, who wear the Sciote habit, the women being in short petticoats, fastened by straps round their shoulders, and large smock ' The first-mentioned of these marbles is engraved in the Ionian Antiquities, published by the Dilettanti Society, and described by Dr. Chandler in his Tour in Asia Minor. The second bears the celebrated in- scription so often referred to, in proof of the Bsapa- ^r,$o)i one of the most ancient forms of writing among the Greeks. For accurate accounts and en- gravings of these curiosities, see Chishul, Shuck- forth, and Chandler, Inscript. Antiq. Knight on the Greek Alphabet, Sec. The Editor saw and examined them at Yenicheyr rtr Sigcum, in \79'l- 32 LETTERS DURING sleeves of white linen, with neat shoes and stockings, and on their heads a large ])iece of muslin, which falls in large folds on their shoulders. — One of my country- men, IMr. Sandys' (Nvhose book I doubt not you have read, as one of the best of its kind), speaking of these ruins, sup- poses them to have been the foundation of a city begun by Constantine, before his buildino- Byzantium ; but I see no o'ood reason for that imagination, and am apt to believe them much more ancient. ^Ve saw very plainly from this pro- montory the river Simois rolling from mount Ida, and running through a very spacious valley. It is now a consider- able river, and is called Si mores ; it is joined in the vale by the Scamander, which, appeared a small stream half * George Sandys, one of the most valuable travel- lers into the Levant, whose work had reached fol^r editions in the reign of Charles the First. MR. wortley's embassy. 33 clioaked with mud, but is perhaps large in tlie winter. Tiiis was Xaiithiis anion"' the gods, as Homer tells us; and 'tis by that heavenly name the nymi)h Oenone invokes it in licr epistle to P.;ris. The Trojan virgins ' used to offer their first favours to it, by the name of Scaniander, till the adventure M'hich morisicur de la Fontaine has told so agreeably abolish'd that heathenish ceremony. When the stream is mingled with the SimoiS; they run together to the sea. All that is now left of Troy is the ground on which it stood; for, I am firmly persuaded, M'hatever pieces of an- tiquity may be found round it are much more modern, and 1 think Strabo says the same thing. However, there is some ' For this curious story, monsieur Bayle may be consulted in his Dictionary, article " Scamander." It appears in the I,etters of Oschines, vol I. p. 125, 126', edit Genev. l£>07 } also in Philostrates and Vigenerus. VOL. III. I) 34 LETTERS DURING pleasure in seeing the valley wheie I imasrined the famous duel of IVIenelaus and Paris had been fought, and where the greatest city in the Morld was situ- ated. 'Tis certainly the noblest situ- ation that can be found for the head of a great empire, much to be preferred to that of Constantinople, the harbour here being always convenient for ships from all parts of the world, and that of Con- stantinople inaccessible almost six months in the year, while the north wind reigns. North of the promontory of Sig6um we saw that of Rha^teum; famed for the sepulchre of Ajax. While I viewed these celebrated fields and rivers, 1 admired the exact geography of Homer, whom I had in my hand. Almost every epithet he gives to a mountain or plain is still just for it; and I spent several hours here in as agreeable cogitations as "ever Don Quixote had on mount Montesinos. We sailed next night to the shore, where 'tis MR. wortley's embassy. 35 vulgarly reported Troy stood ; and I took the pains of rising at two in the morning to view coolly those ruins which are com- monly shewed to strangers, and which the Turks call Eshi Stamboul^, i. e. Old Constantinople. For that reason, as well as some others, I conjecture them to he the remains of that city begun by Constan- tine. I hired an ass (the only voiture to be had there), that I might go some miles into the country, and take a tour round the ancient walls, which are of a vast extent. We found the remains of a castle on a hill, and of another in a ^ Alexandria Troas, which the early travellers have erroneously considered as the true site of an- cient Troy. See Belon, ch. vl. 4to. 1588, Viaggi di Pietro Delia Valle, 4to. 1650. Gibbon (Rom. Hist, vol. III. p. 10) remarks, tliat Wood, in his observ- ations on the Troad, p. 140, 141, had confounded Ilium with Alexandria Troas, although sixteen miles distant from each other. In tlie Ionian Antiquities are some fine views of these ruins. U 2 36 LETTERS DURING valley, several broken pillars, and two pedestals, from which I took these Latin inscriptions : 1. DIVI. AUG. COL. ET COL. lUL. PHILIPPENSIS EORUNDEM PRINCIPUM COL. lUL. PARIANAE. TRIBUN. MILIT. COH. XXXII. VOLUNTAR. TRIB. MILIT. LEG. XIII. GEM. PRAEFECTO EOUIT. ALAE. L SCUBULORUM VIC. VIII. 2. DIVI. lULI. FLAMINI C. ANTONIO. M. F. VOLT. RUFO. FLAMIN. DIV. AUG. COL. CL. APRENS. ET. COL. lUL. PHILIPPENSIS EORUNDEM ET PRINCIP. ITEM COL. lUL. PARIANAE TRIB. MILIT. COH. XXXII. VOLUNTARIOR. TRIB. MILIT. XIII. GEM. PRAEF. EQUIT. ALAE. I. SCUBULORUM VIC. VII. I do not doubt but the remains of a tem- ple near this place are the ruins of one MR. wortley's embassy, 37 dedicated to Augustus ; and I know not why Mr. Sandys calls it a Christian tem- ple, since tlie Romans certainly built here- abouts. Here are many tombs of fine marble, and vast pieces of granate, which are daily lessened by the prodigious balls that the Turks make from them for their cannon. We passed that evening the isle of Tenedos, once under the patron- age of Apollo, as he gave it in himself in the particulars of his estate when he courted Daphne. It is but ten miles in circuit, but in those days very rich and well-peopled, still famous for its excel- lent wine. I say nothing of Tennes, from whom it was called; but naming Myti- lene, where we passed next, I cannot for- bear mentioning Lesbos, where Sappho sung, and Pittacus reigned, famous for the birth of Alcasus, Tlieophrastus, and Arion, those masters in poetry, philoso- phy, and music. This was one of the 38 LETTERS DURING last islands that remained in the Christian dominion after the conquest of Constan- tinople by the Turks. But need I talk to you of Cantacuseni, &c. princes that you are as well acquainted with as I am. 'Twas with regret I saw us sail from this island into the Egean sea, now the Ar- chipelago, leaving Scio (the ancient Chios) on the left, which is the richest and most populous of these islands, fruit- ful in cotton, corn, and silk, planted with groves of orange and lemon trees, and the Arvisian mountain, still celebrated for the nectar that Virgil mentions. Here is the best manufacture of silks in all Turkey. The town is v/ell built, the women famous for their beauty, and shew their faces as in Christendom. There are many rich families, though they confine their magnificence to the inside of their houses, to avoid the jea- lousy of the Turks, who have a pasha MR. wortley's embassy, 39 here : howev^er, they enjoy a reasonable liberty, and indulge the genius of their country ; And eat, and sing, and dance away their time. Fresh as their groves, and happy as their clime. Their chains hang lightly on them, though 'tis not long since they were imposed, not being under the Turk till \566. But perhaps 'tis as easy to obey the grand-sig- nior as the state of Genoa, to whom they 3vere sold by the Greek emperor. But I forget myself in these historical touches, which are very impertinent when I write to you. Passing the strait between the islands of Andros and Achaia, now Li- badia, we saw the promontory of Sunium, now called Cape Colonna, where are yet standing the vast pillars of a temple of Minerva. This venerable sight made me think, with double regret, on a beautiful temple of Theseus, which, I am assured, was almost entire at Athens till the last 40 LETTERS DURING campaign in the Moiea, that the Turks filled it \\ ith powder, and it was acci- dentally blown up. You may believe I had a o-reat mind to land on the fam'd Peloponnesus, though it M'ere only to look on tlie rivers of iEsopus, Peneus, Inachus, and Eurotas, the iields of Arca- dia, and other scenes of ancient mytho- logy. But instead of demi-gods and he- roes, 1 was credibly informed 'tis now over-run by robbers, and that I should run a great risk of falling into their hands by undertaking such a journey through a desert country, for which, however, I have so much respect, that I have much ado to hinder myself from troubling you with its mIioIc history, from the foundation of N3'cana and Co- rinth, to the last campaign there ; but I check the inclination, as I did that of landing. We s.iiled quietly by Cape An- geio, once Malea, where I saw no remains of the famous temple of Apollo. We MR. wortley's embassy. 41 came that evening in sight of Candia: it is very mountainous ; we easily distin- guished that of Ida. — We have Virgil's authority, that here were a hundred cities — Centum urbes habitant magnas— — The chief of them — the scene of mon- strous passions. Ivletelhis first con- quered this birth-place of his Jupiter; it fell afterwards into the hands of 1 am running on to the very siege of Candia ; and I am so angry with myself, that I will pass by all the other islands with this general reflection, that 'tis impossible to imagine any thing more agreeable than this journey would have been two or three thousand years since, when, after drinking a dish of tea with Sappho, I might have gone the same evening to visit the temple of Homer in Chios, and passed this voyage in taking plans of magnificent temples, delineating the mi- 42 LETTERS DURING racles of statuaries, and conversing with the most poHte and most gay of mankind. Alas ! art is extinct here ; the wonders of nature alone remain ; and it was with vast pleasure I observed those of mount Etna, Avhose flame appears very bright in the night many leagues off at sea, and fills the head with a thousand conjec- tures. However, I honour philosophy too much, to imagine it could turn that of Empedocles ; and Lucian shall never make me believe such a scandal of a man, of whom Lucretius says, Vix humana videtur stirpe creatus We passed Trinacria without hearing any of the syrens that Homer describes ; and, being thrown on neither Scylla nor Charybdis, came safe to Malta, first called Melita, from the abundance of honey. It is a whole rock covered with very little eartb. The grand-master lives here in the state of a sovereign prince ; but his MR. WORTLEY's embassy. 43 strength at sea now is very small. The fortifications are reckoned the hest in the M'orld, all cut in the solid rock with infi- nite expence and labour. Off this island we were tossed by a severe storm, and were very glad, after eight days, to be able to put into Porta Farine on the African shore, where our ship now rides. At Tunis we were met by the English consul who resides there. I readily accepted of the offer of his house for some days, being very curious to see this part of the world, and particularly the ruins of Carthage. I set out in his chaise at nine at night, the moon being at full. I saw the prospect of the country almost as well as I could have done by day- light ; and the heat of the sun is now so intolerable, 'tis impossible to travel at any other time. The soil is for the most part sandy, but every-where fruitful of date, olive, and fig-trees, which grow Avithout art, vet afford the most delicious 44 LETTERS DURING fruit in the world. There vineyards and melon-fields are enclosed by hedges of tliat plant we call Indian-fig, which is an adminihle fence, no wild beast being: able to pass it. It grows a great heiglit, very thick, and the spikes or thorns are as long and sharp as bodkins ; it bears a fruit much eaten by the peasants, and which has no ill taste. It being now the season of the Turk- ish ramazan^ or Lent, and al! here pro- fessing, at least, the Mahometan religion, they fast till the going down of the sun, and spend the night in feasting. We saw under the trees companies of the country people, eating, singing, and dancing to their wild music. They are not quite black, but all nmlattoes, and the most friglitful creatures that can ap- pear in a human ligure. They are almost naked, only wearing a piece of coarse serge wrapped about them. But the Av'omen have their arms, to their very MR. wortley's embassy, 45 shoulders, and their necks and faces, adorned witli flowers, stars, and various sorts of figures impressed by gun-powder; a considerable addition to their natural deformity ; which is, however, esteemed very ornamental among* them ; and I believe they suffer a good deal of pain by it. About six miles from Tunis we saw the remains of that noble aqueduct, which carried the water to CarthaQ-e over several high mountains, the length of forty miles. There are still many arches entire. A\ e spent two hours viewing it with great attention, and Mr. Wortley assured me that of Rome is very much inferior to it. The stones are of a prodigious size, and yet all polished, and so exactly fitted to each other, xerv little cement has been made use of to join them. Yet they may probably stand a tliousand years longer, if art is not made use of to pull them down. Soon after day-break I airived 46 LETTERS DURING at Tunis, a town fairly built of very white stone, but quite without gardens, which, they say, were all destroyed when the Turks first took it, none having been planted since. The dr}^ sand gives a very disagreeable prospect to the eye ; and the want of shade contributins; to the natural heat of the climate, renders it so excessive, that I have much ado to support it. 'Tis true here is every noon the refreshment of the sea-breeze, with- out which it would be impossible to live ; but no fresh water but what is preserved in the cisterns of the rains that fall in the month of September. The women of the town go veiled from head to foot under a black crape ; and, being mixed with a breed of renegadoes, are said to be many of them fair and handsome. This citv was besieged in 1270, by Lewis king of France, who died under the walls of it of a pestilential fever. After his deatb, Philip, his son, and our prince Edward, MR. wortley's embassy. 47 son of Henry III. raised the siege on ho- nourable terms. It remained under its natural African kings, till betrayed into the hands of Barbarossa, admiral of So- lyman the Magnificent. The emperor Charles V. expelled Barbarossa, but it was recovered by the Turk, under the conduct of Sinan Pasha, in the reign of Selim II. From that time till now it has remained tributary to the grand-signior, governed by a bey, who suffers the name of subject to the Turk, but has renounced the subjection, being absolute, and very seldom paying any tribute. The great city of Bagdat is at this time in the same circumstances ; and the grand-signior connives at the loss of these dominions, for fear of losing even the titles of them. I went very early yesterday morning (after one night's repose) to see the ruins of Carthage. 1 was, however, half broiled in the sun, and overjoyed to be 48 LETTERS DURING led into one of the subterranean apart- ments, which they called 'Hie stables of the elepluniis, but which 1 cannot beheve were ever designed for that use. I found in them many broken pi( ces of cokimns of fine marble, and some of porphv ry. I cannot think any body would take the insignificant pains of carrying them thi- ther, and I cannot imagine such fine pillars v.ere designed for the use of sta- bles. I am apt to believe they were sum- mer apartments under their palaces, which the heat of the climate rendered neces- sary. They are now used as granaries by the country people. While I sat here, from the town of Tents, not far oif, many of the women flocked in to see me, and we were equally entertained with viewing one another. Their posture in sitting, the colour of their skin, their lank black hair falling on each side their faces, their features, and the shape of their limbs, MR. wortley's embassy. 49 differ so little from their country people the bahoons, 'tis hard to fancy them a distinct race ; 1 could not help thinking- there had been some ancient alliances between them. V/hen I M^as a little refreshed by rest, * and some milk and exquisite fruit they brought me, 1 went up the little hill where once stood the castle of Byrsa, and from thence I had a distinct viev/ of the situation of the famous city of Carthage, Avhich stood on an isthmus, the sea com- ing on each side of it. 'Tis now a marshy ground on one side, where there are salt ponds. Strabo calls Carthage forty miles in circumference. There are now no remains of it, but what I have de- scribed ; and the history of it is too well known to want my abridgement of it. You see, sir, that I think you esteem obedience better than compli- ments. I have answered your letter, by giving you the accounts 3^ou d,e- VOL. III. E 50 LETTERS DURING sired, and have reserved my thanks to the concUision. I intend to leave this place to-morrow, and continue my jour- ney through Italy and France. In one of those places I hope to tell you, by word of mouth, that I am, Your humble servant, &c. &c. MR. WORTLEY's embassy. 51 TO THE COUNTESS OF MAR. Genoa, Aug. 28, O. S. 1/18. I BEG your pardon, my dear sister, that I did not write to you from Tunis, the only opportunity I have had since I left Constantinople. But the heat there was so excessive, and the lio;ht so had for the sight, I was half hlind hy writing one letter to the ahb^ , and durst not go to write many others I had designed ; nor, indeed, could I have entertained you very well out of that barbarous country. I am now surrounded with subjects of pleasure, and so much charm- ed with the beauties of Italy, that I should think it a kind of ingratitude not to offer a little praise in return for the diversion I have had here. I am in the house of Mrs. d'Avenant, at St. Pierre E 2 52 LETTERS DURING d'Arena, and sliould be very unjust not to allow her a sliai e of that praise I speak of, since her good liuniour and good company ha\e vtrv mucli contributed to I'ender tins phice agreeable to me. Genoa is situated in a very fine bay ; and being built on a rising hill, inter- mixed with oaidens, and beautified with the most excellent architecture, gives a very fi e prospect off at sea; though it lost much of ita beauty in my eyes, hav- ing been accustomed to that of Constan- tinople. I'he Gep.ocse were once masters of several islands in the Archipelago, and all that ])ait of Constantinople which is now called Galata. Their betraying the Christian cause, by facilitating the taking of Constantinople by the Turk, deserved what has since happened to them, even the loss of all their conquests on that side to those infidels. They are at present far from rich, and are despised by the French, since their doge was MR. wortley's embassy. 53 forced by the late king to go in person to Paris, to ask pardon for siieh a trifle as the arms of France over the house of the envoy being spattered with (hing in the night. This, 1 suj)pose, was done by some of tlie Spanish fa^ ton, which still makes up the majoiity here, though they dare not openly declare it. The ladies affect the French habit, and are more tienteel than those they inusate. 1 do not doubt but the custom of cecisl;eos has veiy much improved their airs. [ know' not whether you ever heard of those animals. Upon my word, nothing but my own eyes could have convinced me there were any such upon earth. The fashion began here, and is now received all over Italy, where the husbands aie not such terrible creatures as we represent them. I'here are none among them such brutes as to pretend to find fault with a custom so well established, and so politically found- ed, since I am assured that it was an ex- 54 LETTERS DURING peclient first found out by the senate, to put an end to those family liatreds wliich tore tlieir state to pieces, and to find em- ployment for those young men wlio were forced to cut one anotlier's tluoats pour passer le temps; and it has succeeded so well, that, since the institution of cecisbei, there has been nothing but peace and good humour among tliem. These are gentlemen v/ho devote themselves to the service of a particular lady (I mean a married one, for the virgins are all invi- sible, and confined to convents) : they are obliged to wait on her to all public places, such as the plays, operas, and as- semblies (which are here called Conver- sations}^ Avhere they wait behind her chair, take care of her fan and gloves if she play, have the privilege of whis- pers, &c. When she goes out, they serve her instead of lacquies, gravely trotting by her chair. 'Tis their business to pre- pare for her a present against any day of MR. wortley's embassy. 55 public appearance, not forgetting that of her own name": in short, they are to spend all their time and money in her service, who rewards them accordingly (for opportunity they want none) ; but the husband is not to have the impudence to suppose this any other than pure Pla- tonic friendship. 'Tis true, they endea- vour to give her a cecisbei of their own choosing ; but when the lady happens not to be of the same taste, as that often happens, she never fails to bring it about to have one of her own fancy. In former times, one beauty used to have eight or ten of these humble admirers; but those days of plenty and humility are no more : men grow more scarce and saucy; and every lad}^ is forced to content herself with one at a time. You may see in this place the glorious ' That is, the day of the saint after whom she is called. 56 LETTERS DURING liberty of a repul)lic, or, more properly, an aristocracy, the common people being here as errant slaves as the French; but the old nobles pay little respect to the doge, who is but two years in his office, and whose wife, at that very time, as- sumes no rank above another noble lady. 'Tis true, the family of Andrea Doria (that great man, who restored them that liberty they enjoy) have some particular privileges : when the senate found it ne- cessary to put a stop to the luxury of dress, forbidding the wearing of jewels and brocades, they left them at liberty to make what expence they pleased. I look with great pleasure on the statue of that hero, which is in the court belong- ing to the house of duke Doria. This puts me in mind of their palaces, M'hich I can never describe as I ought. Is it not enough that I say they are, most of them, the design of Palladio ? The street called Strada Nova is perhaps the most MR. WORTLEY's embassy. 51 beautiful line of ljuil(lini>' in the world. I must particularly mention the vast pa- laces of Durazzo; those of the two Balbi, joined together by a magnificent colon- ade ; that of the Imperiale at this village of St. Pierre d'Arena ; and another of the Doria. The perfection of architecture, and the utmost jjrofusion of rich furni- ture, are to be seen here, disposed with the most eleo^ant taste and lavish ma^'ni- licence. But I am charmed with nothin": so much as the collection of pictures hy the pencils of Raphael, Paulo Veronese, Titian, Caracci, Michael Angelo, Guido, and Corregio, which two I mention last as my particular favourites. I own I can find no pleasure in objects of horror; and, in my opinion, the more naturally a crucifix is represented, the more dis- agreeable it is. These, m}' beloved paint- ers, shew nature, and shew it in the most charming light. 1 was particuhirly pleas- ed with a Lucretia in the house of Calbi : 58 LETTERS DURING the expressive beauty of that face and bosom, gives all the passion of pity and admiration that could be raised in the soul by the finest poem on that subject. A Cleopatra of the same hand deserves to be mentioned ; and I should say more of her, if Lucrctia had not first engaged my eyes. Here are also some inestimable ancient bustos. The church of St. Law- rence is built of black and white marble, where is kept that famous plate of a single emerald, which is not now per- mitted to be handled, since a plot, which they say was discovered, to throw it on the pavement and break it — a childish piece of malice, which they ascribe to the king of Sicily, to be revenged for their refusino- to sell it to him. The church of the Annunciation is finely lined with marble ; the pillars are of red and white marble : that of St. Ambrose has been very much adorned by the Jesuits : but I confess, all the churches MP,. WORTLEV'S EMBASSY. 59 appeared so mean to me, after that of Sancta Sophia, I can hardly do tliem the honour of writing down their names.— But I hope you will own I have made good use of my time, in seeing so much, since 'tis not many days that we have been out of the quarantine, from which nobody is exempted coming from the Levant. Ours, indeed, was very much shortened, and very agreeably passed in M. d'Avenant's company, in the village of St. Pierre d'Arena, about a mile from Genoa, in a house built by Palladio, so well designed, and so nobly proportioned, 'twas a pleasure to walk in it. We were visited liere only by a few English, in the company of a noble Genoese, commis- sioned to see we did not touch one an- other. I shall stay here some days longer, and could almost wish it were for all my life; but mine, I fear, is not destined to so much tranquillity. I am, &c. kc. 60 LETTERS DURING TO THE COUNTESS OF BRISTOL. Turin, Sept. 12, O.S. 171S. I CAME in two davs from Genoa, tbrou at the age of ninety-one ; having enjoyed health, ge- nius, and prosperity, in a very singular degree. ' Lady Isabella Bentinck, second wife of Evelyn duke of Kingston. 118 LETTERS TO wants very little of being what I would have it. Lady J. Wharton is to be mar- ried to Mr. Holt, which I am sorry for, to see a young woman, whom I really think one of the most ao-reeable g-irls upon earth, so vilely misplaced. But where are people matched ?(l suppose we shall all come right in Heaven as in a country dance ; the hands are strangely given and taken whilst they are in mo- tion, and at last all meet their pa'-tners when the jig is done. I am ever affectionately yours, M. W. M, THE COUNTESS OF MAR. 119 TO THE COUNTESS OF MAIL Twickenham, 172J. I DO verily believe, my clear sister, that this is the twelfth if not the thirteenth letter I have written since I had the pleasure of hearing from you. It is an uncomfortable thing to have precious time spent, and one's wit neglected in this manner. Sometimes I think vou are fallen into that utter indiiference for all things on this side the water, that you have no more curiosity for the af- fairs of London than for those of Pekin ; and if that be the case, 'tis downright impertinence to trouble you with news. But I cannot cast off the affectionate concern I have for you, and conse- quently must put you in mind of me whenever I have any opportunity. The bearer of this epistle is our cousin; his shoulder-knot last birth-day made many 120 LETTERS TO a pretty g-entleman's heart ache with envy, and his addresses have made miss Howard the happiest of her highnesses honour- able virgins. I made a sort of resolu- tion at the beginning of my letter not to trouble you with the mention of what passes here, since you receive it with so much coldness. But T find it is impossi- ble to forbear telling you the metamor- phoses of some of your acquaintance, which appear as wondrous to me as any in Ovid. Would any one believe that lady H*****ss is a beauty, and in love ? and that Mrs. Anastasia Robinson is at the same time a prude and a kept mis- tress ? and these things in spite of nature and fortune. The first of these ladies is tenderly attached to the polite Mr. M***, and sunk in all the joys of happy love, notwithstanding she wants the use of her two hands by a rheumatism, and he has an arm that he cannot move. I wish I could tell you the particulars of this THE COUNTESS OF MAR. 121 amour, Avhich seems to me as curious as that between two oysters, and as well worth the serious attention of the natur- alists. The second heroine has engaged half the town in arms, from the nicety of her virtue, which was not able to bear the too near approach of Senesino in the opera ; and her condescension in her ac- cepting of lord Peterborough « for her champion, who has signalised both his love and courage upon this occasion in as many instances as ever Don Quixote did for Dulcinea. Poor Senesino, like a vanquished giant, was forced to confess upon his knees that Anastasia was a non- pareil of virtue and beauty. Lord Stan- hope, as dwarf to the said giant, joked on his side, and was challenged for his pains. Lord Delawar was Lord Peter- borough's second ; my lady miscarried — * He married Mrs. Anastasia Robinson 173.'5j and died at Lisbon in the same year, aged seventy-seven. 122 LETTERS TO the v.'hole town divided into parties on this important point. Innumerable have been the disorders between the two sexes on so great an account, besides half the house of peers being put under an arrest. By the providence of Heaven, and the wise cares of his majesty, no bloodshed ensued. However, things are now toler- ably accommodated ; and the fair lady rides through the town in the shining bcrlin of her hero, not to reckon the more solid advantage of 100/. a-month, which 'tis said he allows her. I will send you a letter by the count Caylus', whom, if you do not know already, you wmII thank me for introducing to you. He is a Frenchman, and no fop; which, beside the curiosity of it, is one of the prettiest things in the world. In general, gallantry was never in so * Afterward so justly famed in the literary world for the study of Grecian and Roman antiquities. THE COUNTESS OF MAR. 12S elevated a figure as at present. Twenty very pretty fellows (the duke of Wharton being president and chief director) have formed themselves into a committee of gallantry, who call themselves Schemers ; and meet regularly three times a-week, to consult on gallant schemes for the ad- vancement and advantage of that branch of happiness. I consider the duty of a true Englishwoman is to do honour to her native country ; and that it MH)uld be a sin against the pious love I bear to the land of my nativity, to confine the renown due to the schemers within the small extent of this little island, which ought to be spread wherever men can sigh, or women can wish. 'Tis true they have the envy and the curses of the old and ugly of both sexes, and a gene- ral persecution from all old women ; but this is no more than all reformations must expect in their beginning. M. W. Montague. 124 JUETTERS TO TO THE COUNTESS OF MAR. Twickenham, 1^21. DEAR SISTER, I WAS very glad to hear from you, though there was something in your letters very monstrous and shocking. I wonder with what conscience you can talk to me of your being an old woman ; I beg I may hear no more of it. (For my part I pretend to be as young as ever, and really am as young as needs to be, to all intents and purposes^ I attribute all this to your living so long at Chatton, and fancy a week at Paris will correct such wild ima- ginations, and set things in a better light. My cure for lowness of spirits is not drinking nasty water, but galloping all day, and a moderate glass of Champaigne at night in good company ; and I believe this regimen, closely followed, is one of THE COUNTESS OF MAR. 125 the most wholesome that can be pre- scribed, and may save one a world of filthy doses, and more filthy doctor's fees, at the year's end. I rode to Twic*kenham last night, and, after so long a stay in town, am not sorry to find myself in my garden ,1 onr neighbourhood is much im- proved by the removal of some old maids, and the arrival of some fine gentlemen, / amongst whom are lord Middleton and sir J. Gifibrd, who, perhaps, are your ac- quaintances : they live with their aunt, lady Westmoreland, and we endeavour to make the country agreeable to one anotherA Doctor Swift and Johnny Gay are at Pope's, and their conjunction has pro- duced a ballad*, which, if nobody else has sent you, I will, being never better pleased than when I am endeavouring to amuse my dear sister, and ever yours. M. W. M. ■■J 1 I I |in ^ I 11 - - - ^ T I I ri - I * Published in Swift's Works. 126 LETTERS TO TO THE COUNTESS OF MAR. Twickenham, 1723. DEAR SISTER, I SENT you a long letter by the duchess of Montague ; though I have had no answer, I cannot resolve to leave Lon- don without writing another. I go to- morrow to Twickenham, v/here lam occu- pied in some alterations of my house and gardens. I believe I have told you we bought it last year, and there is some sort of pleasure in shewing one's own fancy upon one's own ground. If you please to send my night-gown to Mr. Hughes, an English banquier at Paris, directed for madame Cantillon, it will come safe to my hands ; she is a new neighbour of mine, has a very handsome house in the village, and herself eclipses most of our London beauties : you know how fond we are of novelty, besides that she is THE COUNTESS OF MAR. 127 really very pretty and does not want un- derstanding, and I have a thousand com- modities in her acquaintance. Mrs. Dave- nant is returned from Genoa, and I have the pleasure of an agreeable intimacy with her ; so much for my acquaintance. Lady Byng has inoculated both her chil- dren, and is big with child herself ; the operation is not yet over, but I believe they will do very well. Since that expe- riment has not yet had any ill effect, the whole town are doing the same thing, and I am so much pulled about and so- licited to visit people, that I am forced to run into the country to hide myself. There is a ridiculous marriage on the point of conclusion that diverts me much. You know lady Mary Sanderson ; she is making overherdiscreet person and 1500/. a-year jointure to the tempting embrace of the noble earl of Pembroke, aged 73.* M. W. M. * This marriage never took place. 12$ LETTERS TO TO THE COUNTESS OF MAR. Twickenham, 1723. DEAR SISTER, I HAVE written you so many letters which you say you have not received, that I sujDpose you will not receive this; how- ever, I will acquit myself to my own conscience as a good Christian ought to do. I am sure I can never be really want- ing in any expression of affection to you, to Avhom I can never forget what I owe in many respects. Our mutual acquaint- ance aie exceedingly dispersed, and I am engaged in a new set, Avhose ways would not be entertaining to you, since you know not the people. Mrs. Murray is still at Castle-Howard: I am at Twick- enham, where there is, at this time, more company than at London. Your poor soul Mrs. Johnston is returned into our THE COUNTESS OF MAR. 129 neighbourhood, and sent to me to cany her to Richmond-court to-morrow, but I begged to be excused : she is still in sad pickle. I think Mr. and Madame Harvey are at lord Bristol's. J propos of that fa- mil}' : the countess is come out a new creature; she has left oft' the dull occu- pations of hazard and basset, and is grown young, blooming, coquet, and gallant ; and, to shew she is fully sensible of the errors of her past life, and resolved to make up for time misspent, she has two lovers at a time, and is equally wickedly talked of for the gentle colonel Cotton and the superfine Mr. Braddocks. Now I think this the greatest compliment in nature to her own lord; since it is plain that when slie will be false to him, she is forced to take two men in his stead, and that no one mortal has merit enouoh to make up for him. Poor lady G**** is parting from her discreet spouse for a mere trifle. She had a mind to take tlie VOL. III. K 130 LETTERS TO air this spring in a new yacht (which lord Hillsborough built for many good uses, and which has been the scene of much pleasure and pain) : she went in company with his lordship, Fabrice, Mr. Cook, lady Litchfield*, and her sister, as far as Greenwich, and from thence as far as the mouth of the Nore ; wlien to the great surprise of the good company, who thought it impossible the wind should not be as fair to bring them back as it Avas to carry them thither, they found there was no possibility of return- ing that night. Lady G****, in all the concern of a good wife, desired her lord might be informed of her safety, and that she was no way blameable in staying out all night. Fabrice writ a most gallant letter to lord G**** ; concluding that Mr. Cook presents his humble service to him, and let him know (in case of ne- cessity) his lady was in town : but his * Frances, daughter of sir John Hales, of Wood- e.hurcb, Kent. THE COUNTESS OF MAR. 131. lordship not liking the change, I sup- pose, carried the letter strait to the king's majesty, who not being at leisure to give him an audience, he sent it in open by Mahomet ; though it is hard to guess what sort of redress he intended to pe- tition for — the nature of the thing being such, that had he complained he was no cuckold, his majesty at least might have prevailed that some of his court might confer that dignity upon him, but if he was, neither king, council, nor the two houses of parliament, could make it null and of none effect. This public rup- ture is succeeded by a treaty of separa- tion, and here is all the scandal that is uppermost in my head. I should be glad to contribute any way to your en- tertainment, and am very sorry to stand in so much need of it. I am ever yours. M. W. Montagu. Iwish you would think of my lutestring, fori am in terrible want of linings. k2 132 LETTERS TO TO THE COUNTESS OF MAR. Cavendish-square, 1723. DEAR SISTER, I HAVE written to you tv.ice since I re- ceived yours in answer to that I sent by Mr. DeCaylus, but I believe none of what I send by the post ever come to your hands, nor ever will while they are direct- ed to Mr. Waters, for reasons that you may easily guess. I wish you Avould give me a safer direction ; it is very seldom I can have the opportunity of a private messenger, and it is very often that I have a mind to write to you. If you have not heard of the duchess of Montague's in- tended journey, you will be surprised at your manner of receiving this, since I send it by one of her servants : she does r;ot design to see any body nor any tiling at Paris, and talks of going from Montpel- THE COUNTESS OF MAR. 153 lier to Italy. I have a tender esteem for her, and am heartily concerned to lose her conversation, yet I cannot condemn her resolution. I am yet in this wicked town, but purpose to leave it as soon as the parliament rises. Mrs. j\Iiirray and all her satellites have so seldom fallen in my way, I can say httle about them. Your old friend Mrs. Louther is still fair and young, and in pale pink evtiy night in the parks ; but, after being highly in favour, poor I am in utter disgrace, with- out my being able to guess wherefore, except she fancied me the author or abettor of two vile ballads written on her dying adventure, which I am so innocent of that I never saw it : a propos of ballads, a most delightful one is said or sung in most houses about our dearly beloved plot, which has been laid first to Pope, and secondly to me, wlien CJod knows we have neither of us wit enou&'h to make it. I\{rs. Harvey lies-in of a female 134 LETTERS TO child. Lady Rich is happy in dear sir Robert's absence, and the pohte Mr. Holt's return to his allegiance, who, though in a treaty of marriage with one of the prettiest girls in town (lady J. Wharton), appears better with her than ever. Lady B. Manners is on the brink of matrimony with a yorkshire Mr. Monkton of 3000/. per annum : it is a match of the young duchess's making, and she thinks matter of great triumph over the two coquet beauties, who can get nobody to have and to hold ; they are decayed to a pi- teous degree, and so neglected that they are grown constant and particular to the two ugliest fellows in London. Mrs. P condescends to be publicly kept by the noble earl of Cadogan ; whether Mr. P" has a pad nag deducted out of the profits for his share I cannot tell, but he appears very well satisfied with it. This is, I think, the whole state of love; as to that of wit, it splits itself into ten THE COUNTESS OF MAR. 135 thousand branches ; poets increase and multiply to tliat stupendous degree, you see them at every turn, even in embroi- dered coats and pink-coloureLi top-knots; making verses is become almost as com- mon as taking snuff, and God can tell " what miserable stuff people carry about in their pockets, and offer to all their acquaintances, and you know one cannot refuse reading and taking a pinch. This is a very great grievance, and so particularly shocking to me, that I think our wise lawgivers should take it into considera- tion, and appoint a fiist-day to beseech Heaven to put a stop to this epidemical disease, as they did last year for the plague with great success. Dear sister, adieu: I have been very free in this letter, because I think I am sure of its going safe. I wish my night- gown may do the same : — I only choose that as most convenient to you ; but if it was equally so, I had rather the money 136 LETTERS TO was laid out in plain lutestring, if you could send me eight yards at a time of different colours, designing it for linings ; but if this scheme is impracticable, send me a night-gown a-Ia-mode. THE COUNTESS OF MAR. 137 TO THE COUNTESS OF MAR. Twickenham, 1723. I AM very sorry, dear sister, that you are in so melancholy a wa}^, i^iit I hope a re- turn to Paris will revive your spirits ; I had much rather have said London, hut I do not presume upon so much happi- ness. I Avas last night at the play en J'a- mllky in the most literal sense ; my sister Gower dragged me thither in company of aliourchil(h-cn,v/ithLadyF. Pierrcpointat theirhead. IMy third niece Leveson, Jenny hy name \ Avill come out an errant beauty; she is really like the duchess of Queens- borough. As for news, the last wedding is that of Peg Pelham^, and I think I • Hon. Jane Leveson. Gower^ died unmarried iii May, 1737. ^ Hon, -Margaret Pelham, married to sir John Shelley, bart. of Michel Grove, in Sussex, and died in 1758. 138 LETTERS TO have never seen so comfortable a pro- spect of happiness ; according to all ap- pearance slie cannot fail of being a wi- dow^ in six weeks at farthest, and accord- in 2:1 v she has been so good a house- v/ife as to line her wedding-clothes with black. Assemblies rage in this part of the world ; there is not a street in town free from them, and some spirited ladies go to seven in a night. You need not question but love and play flourish under these encouragements : I now and then peep upon these things with the same coolness I would do on a moving picture ; I laugh at some of the motions, wonder at others, &c. and then retire to the elected few, that have ears and hear, but mouths have they and speak not. One of these chosen, to my great sorrow, will soon be at Paris ; I mean Staiford, who talks of removing next April: she promises to re- turn, but I had rather she did not 2:0. THE COUNTESS OF MAR. 139 TO THE COUNTESS OF MAR. Twickenham, Oct. 20, 1/2^. I AM heartily sorry to have the pleasure of hearing from you lessened by your complaints of uneasiness, which I wish with all my soul I was capable of re- lieving, either by my letters or any other way. ]\Iy life passes in a kind of indo- lence which is now and then awakened by agreeable moments; but pleasures are transitory, and the ground-work of every thing in England stupidity, which is cer- tainly owing to the coldness of this vile climate. I envy you the serene air of Paris, as well as many other conveniences there : what between the things one can- not do, and the things one must not do, the time but dully lingers on, though I make as good a shift as many of my neigh- bours. To my great grief, some of my best 140 LETTERS TO friends have been extremely ill ; and, in general, death and sickness have never been more frequent than now. You may imagine poor gallantry droops ; and, ex- cept in the elysian shades of Richmond, there is no such thing as love or pleasure. It is said there is a fair lady retired for having taken too much of it : for my part they are not at all cooked to my taste ; and I have very little share in the diver- sions there, which, except seasoned with wit, or at least vivacity, will not go down with me who have not altogether so voracious an appetite as I once had : 1 intend, however, to shine and be fine on the birth-night, and review the figures there. My poor friend the 3'oung duchess of Marlborough', I am afraid, has ex- • Henrietta^ eldest daughter of John duke of Marl- borough, married to Francis earl of Godolphin, and upon the death of her father in 1722, succeeded to his honours ; she was the particular friend of CongrevCj who bequeathed her 1 0,0001. THE COUNTESS OF MAR. 141 posed herself to a most violent ridicule ; she is as much embarrassed with the loss of her expected child, and as much ashamed of it, as ever a dairy maid was with the getting one. I desire you would say something very pretty to your daughter in my name : notwithstanding the great guiph that is at present between us, I hope to wait on her to an opera one time or other. I suppose you know our uncle Fielding* is dead : I regret him prodigiously. M. \V. M. ^ William Fielding, esq. second son of W. earl of Denbigh, gentleman of tlie bedchamber and deputy comptroller of the household, died Sept. 1/23. M2 LETTERS To TO THE COUNTESS OF MAR. Oct. 31, 1723. I WRITE to you at this time piping-hot from the birth night ; my brain warmed M'ith all the agreeable ideas that fine clothes, fine gentlemen, brisk tunes, and lively dances, can raise there. It is to be hoped that my letter will entertain you ; /at least you will certainly have the ^ freshest account of all passages on that glorious day. First you must know that I led up the ball, which you'll stare at ; but what is more, I believe in my con- science I made one of the best figures there ; to say truth, people are grown so extravagantly ugly, that we old beauties are forced to come out on show-days, to keep the court in countenance. I saw Mrs. IMurray there, through whose hands this epistle will be conveyed ; I do not THE COUNTESS OF MAR. 143 know whether she will make the same compliment to you that I do. IVIrs. West was with her, Avho is a great priule, hav- ini»- but two lovers at a time: I think those are lord Haddington and Mr. Lind- say; the one for use, the other for show. The world improves in one virtue to a violent degree, I mean plain -dealing. Hy- pocrisy being, as the Scripture declares, a danmable sin, I hope our publicans and sinners will be saved by the open profes- sion of the contrary virtue. I was told by a very good author, who is deep in the secret, that at this ver}- minute there is a bill cooking-up at a hunting-seat in Norfolk \ to have not taken out of the commandments and clapped into the creed, the ensuing session of parliament. This bold attempt for the liberty of the subject is wholly projected by Mr, Wal- pole, who proposed it to the secret com- ' Houghton; Mr. (afterward sir Robert) Walpoie's, then prime-minister. 144 LETTERS TO mittee in his parlour. William Young* seconded it, and answered for all his ac- quaintance voting right to a man: Dod- dington' very gravely objected, that the obstinacy of human nature was such, that he feared M'hen thc}^ had positive com- mands to do so, perhaps people v/ould not commit adultery and bear false witness against their neighbours v, itli the readi- ness and cheerfulness they do at present. This objection seemed to sink deep into the minds of the greatest politicians at the board, and I don't know whether the bill won't be dropped, though it is certain it might be carried on with great ease,, the Avorld being entirely " revenue du bagatelle,'' and honour, virtue, reputa- tion, &c. which we used to hear of in our nursery, is as much laid aside and brgotten as crumpled ribands. To " Sir William Young. ' George Bubb Dodclins;ton, afterward lord Mel- comb'Rcgis, whose Diary has been publisihed. THE COUNTESS OF MAR. l45 Speak plainly, I am very sorry for the forlorn state of matrimony, which is as much ridiculed hy our youns; lad+es as it used to be by young fellows : in short, both sexes have found the inconveniences of it, and the appellation of rake is as genteel in a woman as a man of quality ; it is no scandal to say miss , the maid of honour, looks very well now she is out again, and poor Biddy Noel has never been quite well since her last confinement. You may imagine we mar- ried women look very silly ; we have nothing to excuse ourselves, but that it was done a great while ago, and we were very young when we did it. This is the general state of affairs : as to particulars, if you have any curiosity for things of that kind, you have nothing to do but to ask me questions, and they shall be answer- ed to the best of my understanding ; my time never being passed more agreeably than when I am doing something obhg- VOL. III. L 146 LETTERS TO ing to you : this is truth, in spite of all the beaus, wits, and witlings, in Great Britain. M. W. M. THE CiOtFNTESS OF MAR. 147 TO THE COUNTESS OF MAR. Cavendish-square, 1724. DEAR SISTER, I CANNOT positively fix a time for my waiting on you at Paris; but I do verily believe I shall make a trip thither, sooner or later. This town improves in gaiety every day ; the young people are younger than they used to be, and all the old are grown young. Nothing is talked of but entertainments of gallantry by land and water, and we insensibly begin to taste all the joys of arbitrary power. Politics are no more ; nobody pretends to winch or kick under their burthens ; but we sro on cheerfully with our bells at our ears, ornamented with ribands, and highly contented with our present condition : so much for the general state of the na- T «^ 14S LETTERS TO tion. The last pleasure that fell in my way was madame Sevign^'s Letters; very pretty they are, but I assert, without the least vanity, that mine will be full as en- yl teriainino;^ forty y ea£s_hence. I advise you, therefore, to put none of them to the use of w^aste paper. You say nothing to me of the change of your ministry ; I thank you for your silence on that sub- ject ; I don't remember myself ever child enough to be concerned who reigned in any part of the earth. I am more touch- ed at the death of poor JVIiss Chiswell, who is carried off by the small-pox. I am so oddly made, that I never forget the tendernesses contracted in my in- fancy; and I think of any past play-fel- low with a concern that few people feel for their present favourites. After giv- ing you melancholy by this tragedy, 'tis but reasonable I should conclude with a farce, that I may not leave you in ill hu- mour. I have so good an opinion of THE COUNTESS OF MAR. 149 your taste, to believe harlequin in person will never make you laugh so much as the earl of S****'s furious passion for lady Walpole' (aged fourteen and some months). Mrs. ]\P***t undertook to ])ring the business to bear, and provided the opportunity (a great ingredient you'll say) ; but the young lady proved skit" tish. She did not onlv turn this heroic flame into present ridicule, but exposed all his generous sentiments, to divert her husband and father-in-law. His lordship is gone to Scotland; and if there was any body wicked enough to write upon it, there is a subject worthy the pen of the best ballad-maker in Grub-street. M. W. M. * Margaret, daughter and heir of Samuel Rolle^ esq. of Haynton, co, Devon, nnarried to Robert lord Walpole, March 26, ] 724. ' 150 LETTERS TO TO THE COUNTESS OF MAR. Cavendish-square, 1/25. I THINK this is the first time of my Hfe that a letter of yours has lain by me two posts unanswered. You'll wonder to hear that short silence is occasioned by not having a moment unemployed at Twick- enham ; but I pass many hours on horse- back, and I'll assure you, ride stag hunt- ing, which I know you'll stare to hear of. I have arrived to vast courage and skill that way, and am as well pleased with it as with the acquisition of a new sense : his royal highness hunts in Rich- mond park, and I make one of the heau monde in his train. (^ I desiie you after this account not to name the word old woman to me any more: I approach to fifteen nearer than I did ten years ago. THE COXJNTESS OF MAR. 151 and am in hopes to improve every year in health and vivacity. Lord Bolingbroke is returned to England, and is to do the honours at an assembly at lord Berkley's the ensuing winter. But the most sur- prising news is lord B****t's assiduous court, which fills the coffee-houses with profound speculations. But I, who smell a rat at a considerable distance, do be- lieve in private that Mrs. H****d and his lordship have a friendship that bor- ders upon "the tender;" and though in histories learned, ignorance attributes all to cunning or to chance, Love in that grave disguise does often smile. Knowing tlie cause was kindness all the while. I am in hopes your king of France be- haves better than our duke of B****d ; who, by the care of a pious mother, cer- tainl}^ preserved his virginity to his mar- riage-bed, where he was so much disap- pointed in his fair bride (who, though 152 LETTERS TO his own inclinations, could not bestow on him those expressless raptures he had figured to himself), that he already pukes at the very name of her, and de- termines to let his estate go to his brother, rather than ******* *^ N. B. This is true history, and I think the most extraordinary has happened in this last age. This comes of living till sixteen without a competent kno\dedge either of practical or speculative ana- tomy, and literally thinking fine ladies composed of lilies and ro^es. A propos of the best red and white to be had for money ; lady liervey is more delightful than ever, and such a politician, that if people were not blind to merit, she would govern the nation. Mrs. Murray has got a new lover in the most accomplished Mr. Doddington — so far for the progress of love. That of wit has taken a very odd course, and is making the tour of Ireland, from whence we have packets of THE COUNTESS OF MAR, 15S ballads, songs, petitions, panegyrics, &c.: so powerful is the influence of lord Car- teret's Avit, and my lady's beauty, the Irish rhime that never rhimed before. Adieu, dear sister, I take a sincere part in all that relates to you, and am ever yours. I beg, as the last favour, that you would make some small en- quiry, and let me knoAV the minute lord Finch ' is at Paris. M. W. M. ^ Afterward earl of Winchilsea and Nottingham, comptroller of the household to George II. 154 LETTERS TO TO THE COUNTESS OF MAR. Twickenham, 1725. I AM now at the same distance from London that you are from Paris, and could fall into solitary amusements with a "ood deal of taste: but I resist it, as a temptation of Satan, and rather turn my endeavours to make the world as agree- able to me as I can, which is the true philosophy ; that of despising it is of no use but to hasten wrinkles. I ride a good deal, and have got a horse superior to any two-legged animal, he being with- out a fault. I work like an angel. I re- ceive visits upon idle days, and I shade my life as I do my tent-stitch, that is, make as easy transitions as I can from business to pleasure ; the one would be too flaring and gaudy without some dark THE COUNTESS OF MAR3 155 shades of t' other ; and if I worked al- together in the grave colours, you know 't would be quite dismal. Miss Skerret is in the house with me, and lady Staf- ford has taken a lodging at Richmond : as their ages are different, and both agree- able in their kind ; I laugh with the one, or reason with the other, as I happen to be in a gay or serious humour ;^nd I manage my friends with such a strong yet a gentle hand, that they are both willing to do whatever I have a mind to.^ My daughter presents her duty to you, and service to lady Frances', M'ho is growing to womanhood apace : I long to see her and you, and am not destitute of wandering designs to that purpose. M. W. M. ' Who afterward was the wile of her cousin, Joha Xreskine, esq. 156 LETTERS TO TO THE COUNTESS OF MAR. Cavendish-square^ 1725. I AM heartily sorry, clear sister, for all that displeases you, and for this time ad- mit of your excuses for silence; but I give you warning, c'est pour la dernihre fois : to sa}' truth, they don't seem very reasonable ; whatever keeps one at home naturally inclines one to write, especially when you can give a friend so much plea- sure as your letters always do to me. Miss Skerret' staid all the remainder of the summer with me, and we are now come to town, where variety of things happen every day. Sophia and I have an im- mortal quarrel ; which, though I resolve never to forgive, I can hardly forbear ' Maid of honour to queen Carohne, and afterward the second wife of sir Robert Walpole. THE COUNTESS OF MAR. 157 laughing at. An acquaintance of mine is married, whom I wish very well to : Sophia has been pleased, on this occa- sion, to write the most infamous ballad that ever was Avritten ; wherein both the bride and bridegroom are intolerably mauled, especially the last, who is com- plimented with the hopes of cuckoldom, and forty other things equally obliging. Sophia has distributed this ballad in such a manner, as to make it pass for mine, on purpose to plague the poor innocent soul of the new-married man, whom I should be the last of creatures to abuse. I know not how to clear myself of this vile imputation, without a train of con- sequences I have no mind to fall into. In the mean time Sophia enjoys the plea- sure of heartily plaguing both me and that person. Perhaps I may pass the Christmas ho- lidays at Paris. Adieu, dear sister. The new opera is execrable. M. W. M. 158 LETTERS TO TO THE COUNTESS OF MAR. Cavendish-square, 1725. DEAIl SISTER, I AM extremely sorry for your indispo- sition, and did not wait for a letter to "write to J^ou, but my lord C****e has been going every day this five weeks, and I intended to charge him with a pacquet : nobody ever had such ineffectual charms as his lordship ; beauty and money are equally ill bestowed, when a fool has the keeping of them ; they are incapable of happiness, and every blessing turns use- less in their hands. You advise a chantre of taste, which I confess I have no no- tion of; I may, with time, change my pursuit, for the same reason that I may feed upon butcher's meat when I am not able to purchase greater delicacies, but I am sure I shall never forget the flavour THE COUNTESS OF MAR. 159 of gibier. In the mean time I divert myself passably enough, and take care to injfiir()y.e_as much as possible that stock of vanity and credulity that Heaven in its mercy has furnished me with ; being sensible that to those two qualities, sim- ple as they appear, all the pleasures of life are owing.7 My sister Gower is in town, on the" point of lying-in: I see every body, but converse with nobody but des limes clioisies; in the first rank of these are lady Stafford and dear Molly Skerret, both of which have now the ad- ditional merit of being old acquaint- ances, and never having given me any reason to complain of either of them. I pass some days with the duchess of Mon- tague', who might be a reigning beauty if she pleased. I see the whole town every Sunday, and select a few that I re- ' Lady Mary Cliurchill, fourth and youngest daughter of John duke of Marlborough j she died in May, 1757. 360 LETTERS TO tain to supper ; in short, if life could be always what it is, I believe I have so much humility in my temper that I could be contented without any thing better than this, two or three hundred years : but alas ! Dullness^ wrinkles, and disease, must come. And age and death's irrevocable doom. M. W. M. THE COUNTESS OF MAR. ICI TO THE COUNTESS OF MAR. Cavendish-square, 1/25. I BELIEVE you have by this time receiv- ed my letter from the hand of my lord Clare ; however I love you well enough to write again, in hopes you will answer my letters one time or other. All our acquaintances are run mad ; they do such things ! such monstrous and stu- pendous things ! Lady Hcrvey and lady Bristol have quarrelled in such a polite manner, that they have given one an- other all the titles so liberally bestowed amongst the ladies at Billingsgate. So- phia and I have been quite reconciled, and are now quite broke, and I believe not likely to piece up again. Ned Thomp- son is as happy as the money and charms of Belle Dunch can make him, and a VOL. III. M 162 LETTERS TO miserable dog for all that. Public places flourish more than ever : we have assem- blies for every day in the week, besides court, operas, and masquerades ; with youth and money, 'tis certainly possible to be very well diverted in spite of ma- lice and ill-nature, though they are more and more poM^erful every day. For my part, as it is my established opinion that ^jjiis globe of ours is no better than a Holland cheese, and the walkers about in it mites, I posses my mind in pa- tience, let what will happen ; and should feel tolerably easy, though a great rat came and eat half of it up."] My sister Gowerhas got a sixth daugliter' by the grace of God, and is as merry as if no- thing had happened. My poor love Mr. Cook has fought and been disarmed by J. Stapleton on a national quarrel ; in • Honourable Evelyn Leveson Gower, who mar- ried John Fitzpatrick, earl of Upper Ossoiy. THE COUNTESS OF MAR. 163 short, he was born to conquer nothing in England, that's certain, and has good luck neither Avith our ladies nor gentle- tlemen. B. Noel is come out lady ]\Iil- sington, to the encouragement and con- solation of all the coquets about town; and they make haste to be as infamous as possible, in order to make their for- tunes. I have this moment received from Mrs. Peling a very pretty cap for my girl ; I give you many thanks for the trouble you have had in sending it, and desire you would be so good to send the other things Avhen you have oppor- tunity, I have another favour to ask, that you would make my compliments to our English embassadoi- w^hen you see him. I have a constancy in my nature that makes me always remember my old friends. M. W. M. M n 'iGi LETTERS TO TO THE COUNTESS OF MAR. Twickenham, 1725. I WROTE to 3^011 very lately, my dear sister; but ridiculous things happening, I cannot help (as far as in me lies) sharing all my pleasures y/ith you. I own I en- joy vast delight in the folly of mankind; and, God be praised, that is an inex- haustible source of entertainment. I will mention to you some suspicions of my own in relation to lord B***t, which I really never mentioned to any one ; but as there is never smoke without some fire, there is never fire without some smoke. These smothered flames, though admirably covered with whole heaps of pohtics, were at length seen, felt, heard, and understood ; and the fair lady given to understand by her commanding offi- THE COUNTESS OF MAR. 165 cer, that if she shewed under other co- lours, she must expect to have her pay retrenched. Upon this the good lord was dismissed, and has not attended in the drawing-room since. You know one cannot help laughing, when one sees him next, and I own I long for that plea- surable moment. I am sorry for another of our acquaint- ance, Avhose follies (for it is impossible to avoid that word) are not of a kind to give mirth to those who wish her well. The discreet and sober lady L***re has lost such furious sums at the Bath, that it may be questioned, whether all the sweetness the waters can put into my lord's blood, particularly 700/. at one sitting, which is aggravated by many astonishing circum- stances. This is as odd to me as my lord T m's shooting himself; and another demonstration of the latent fire that lies under cold countenances. We wikl girls always make your prudent wives and mothers. 166 LETTERS TO I hear some near relations of ours arc at Paris, with whom I think you are not acquainted. I mean lord Denbigh and his Dutch lady', who I am very certain has somewhat of" French in her composi- tion. She is entertaining enough, -extremely gay. Loves music, company, and play — T suppose 3'ou will see her. M. W. M. ' Isabella, daughter of Peter de Yong of Utrecht, in Holland, and sister of the marchioness of Bland- ford. THE COUNTESS OF MAR. 167 TO THE COUNTESS OF MAR. Cavendish-square, 1725. I AM always pleased to hear from you, dear sister, when you tell me you are well. I believe that you will find, upon the whole, my opinion to be right, that air, exercise, and company, are the best medicines, and physic and retirement good for nothing but to break hearts and spoil constitutions. I am very glad to hear you mention our meeting in London. We are much mistaken here as to our ideas of Paris— to hear that gallantry has forsaken it, sounds as extraordinary to me as a want of ice in Greenland. We have nothing but ugly faces in this country, but more lovers than ever. There are but three pretty men iu England, and they are all IGS LETTERS TO m love with me, at this present writing. This will surprise you extremely ; but if you were to see the reigning girls at pre- sent, I will assure you, there is little dif- ference between tbem and old women. / I hear much of Mrs. Murray's despair on the death of poor Gibby, and I saw her dance at a ball where I was, two days before it happened. The duke of King- ston is in France, but is not to come to your capital. I am sorry to inform you of the death of our sister lady Gower's son of the small-pox. I think she has a great deal of reason to regret it; in consideration of the oifer I made her two years together of taking the child to my house, where I would have inoculated him with the same care and safety that I did my own. I know nobody who has hitherto re- pented the operation, though it has been very troublesome to some fools, who had rather be sick by the doctor's prescrip- THE COUNTESS OF MAR. 169 lions, than in health, in rebellion to the college. It is very true, that if I wrote to you a full account of all that passes, my letters would be both frequent and voluminous. This sinful town is very populous, and my-jQwn affairs very much in a hurry ; but the same things that afforded me much matter gave me very little time, and I am hardly at leisure to make ob- servations, much less to write them down. But the melancholy catastrophe of poor lady L*** is too extraordinary not to attract the attention of every body. After having played away her ^ reputation and fortune, she has poisoned herself. This is the effect of prudence ! All indiscreet people live and flourish. JMrs. M has retrieved his grace ; and being reconciled to the temporal, has re- nounced the spiritual ; and her friend lady H , by aiming too higli, has fallen very low, and is reduced to trying 170 LETTERS TO to persuade folks she has an intrigue, and gets no one to believe her, the man in question taking a great deal of pains to rid himself of the seandal. Her Chelsea grace of R has married her attorney. There's prudence for you ! M. W. M. THE COUNTESS OF MAR. HI TO THE COUNTESS OF MAR. Twickenham, Jan. \726. DEAR SISTER, Having a few momentary spirits, I take pen in hand, though 'tis impossible to have tenderness for you, without having the spleen upon reading your letter, which will, I hope, he received as a law- ful excuse for the dulness of the fol- lowing lines ; and I plead (as I believe I have on different occasions), that I should please you better if I loved you less. My lord Carleton' has 4eft this transitory world, and disposed of his estate as he did of his time, between lady C****n and the duchess of Q****y. ' Henry Boyle, fifth son of Richard earl of Orrery, was secretary of state to queen Anne. Created baron Carlton, 1714, and died 1723 172 LETTLRS TO Jewels of great value he has given, as he did his affections, first to the mother and then to the daughter. He was taken ill in my company at a concert at the du- chess of Marlborough's, and died two days after, holding the fair duchess by the hand, and being fed at the same time with a fine fat chicken ; thus dying as he had lived, indulging his pleasuiT^J Lady Hervey, makes the top figure in town, and is so good as to sJiozv twice a- week at the drawing-room, and twice more at the opera, for the entertainment of the pub- lic. As for myself, having nothing to say, I say notliing. I insensibly dwindle into a spectatress, and lead a kind of— as it were. — I wisli you were here every day : and I see, in the mean time, lady Stafford and the duchess of Montagu * Mary, daughter of brigadier-general Nicholas Le Pel, formerly maid of honour to the princess of Wales, and mistress of the robes to her when queen Caroline. Married Oct. 25, 1/20. THE COUNTESS OF MAR. 173 and miss Skerret, and really speak to al- most nobody else, though I walk about every where. Adieu, dear sister ; if my letters could be any consolation to you, I should think my time best spent in writing- them. M. W. M. 174- LETTERS TO TO THE COUNTESS OF MAR. Cavendish-square, J 726. DEAR SISTER, I WRIT to you some time ago along let- ter, which I perceive never came to your hands: very provoking ; it was certainly a chef dceuvre of a letter, and worth any of the Savignys or Grignans, cram- med with news. And I can't find in my heart to say much in this, because I be- lieve there is some fault in the direction : as soon as I hear you have received this, you shall have a full and true account of the affairs of this island, my own are in tlie utmost prosperity ; add but eternity, vou make it heaven. I shall come to Paris this summer with- out fail, and endeavour to put you out of your melancholy. ' I\I. W. M. THE COUNTESS OF MAR. 175 TO THE COUNTESS OF MAR. Cavendish-square, London, 1/26. I AM very sorry for your ill health, but hope it is so entirely past, that you have by this time forgot it. I never was bet- ter in my life, nor ever past my hours more ao'reeablv ; I ride between London and Twickenham perpetually, and have little societies quite to my taste, and that is saying every thing. I leave the great world to girls that know no better, and do not think one bit the Morse of m3^self for having out-lived a certain giddiness, M'hich is sometimes excusable but never pleasing.l Depend upon it, 'tis only the spleen that gi ves you those ideas ; you may have many delightful d.iys to come, and there is nothini>- more sillv than to be too wise to be happy : 176 LETTERS TO If to be sad is to be wise, I do most heartily despise Whatever Socrates has said. Or TuUy writ, or Montaigne read. So much for philosophy. — What do you say to Pelham's marriage? Tliere's ilame ! there's constancy ! if I could not employ my time better, I would write the history of their loves, in twelvetomes : lord Hervey should die in her arms like the poor king of Assyria, she should be sometimes carried off by the troops of Masques, and at other times blocked up in the strong castles of the Bagnio ; but her honour should always remain invio- late by the strength of her own virtue, and the friendship of the enchantress Mrs. ^lurray, till her happy nuptials with her faithful Cyrus : 'tis a thousand pities I have not time for those vivacities. Here is a book come out ^ that all our people of taste run mad about ; 'tis no * The Travels of Captain Lemuel Gulliver. THE COUNTESS OF MAR. 177 less than the united work of a dignified clergyman, an eminent physician, and the first poet of the age ' ; and very won- derful it is, God knows! — great elo- quence have they employed to prove themselves beasts, and show such a ve- neration for horses, that since the Essex quaker, nobody has appeared so passion- ately devoted to that species ; and to say truth, they talk of a stable with so much warmth and affection, I cannot help suspecting some very powerful motive at the bottom of it. M. W. M. * Swift, Arbuthnot, and Pope, VOL. III. N" J 78 LETTERS TO TO THE COUNTESS OF MAR. Cavendish-square, 1727- This is a vile world, clear sister, and I can easily comprehend, that whether one is at Paris or London, one is stifled with a certain mixture of fool and knave, Avhich most people are composed of. I would have patience with a parcel of po- lite rogues, or downright honest fools , but father Adam shines through his whole progeny. So much for our inside, — then our outward is so liable to ugli- ness and distempers, that we are perpe- tually plagued with feeling our own de- cays and seeing those of other people. Yet, sixpennyworth of common sense, ilivided among a whole nation, would make our lives roll away glibly enough ; but then we make laws, and we follow THE COUNTESS OF MAR. 179 customs. By the liist we cut off our own pleasures, and by the second mc are answerable for the faults and extra- vagances of others. All these things, and five hundred more, convince me (as I have the most profound veneration for the Author of nature) I am satisfied I have been one of the cofidcmued ever since I was born ; and in submission to the di- vine justice I have no doubt but I de- served it in some pre-existent state. I will still hope that I am only in purga- tory ; and that after whining and pining a certain number of years, I shall be translated to some more happy sphere, where virtue will be natural, and custom reasonable ; that is, in short, where common sense will reign. I grow very devout, as you see, and place all my hopes in the next life, being totally per- suaded of the apthmgness of this. , Don't you remember how miserable we were in the little parlour, at Thoresby ? we then N 2 180 LETTERS TO thought marrying would put us at once I into possession of all we wanted. Then came though, after all, I am still of , opinion, that it is extremely silly to sub- I mit to ill-fortune. One should pluck up ^ a spirit, and live upon cordials when one ' can have no other nourishment. These are my present endeavours, and I run about, though I have five thousand pins and needles in my heart. I try to con- sole myself with a small damsel \ who is at present every thing I like— but, alas! she is yet in a white frock. At four- teen, she may run away with the butler : — there's one of the blessed effects of disappointment ; you are not only hurt by the thing present, but it cuts off all future hopes, and makes your very ex- pectations melancholy. Quelle vie ! ! I M. W. M. ' Her daughter, afterward countess of Bute. THE COUNTESS OF MAR. 181 TO THE COUNTESS OF MAR. Cavendish-square, 1727- I CANNOT deny, but that I was very well diverted on the coronation day. I saw the procession much at my ease, in a house which 1 filled with my awn com- pany, and then got into Westminster- hall without trouble, where it was very entertaining to observe the variety of airs that all meant the same thing. The business of e^ ery walker there was to conceal vanity and gain admiration. For these purposes some languished and others strutted ; but a visible satisfaction was diffused over every countenance, as soon as the coronet was clapped on the head. But she that drew the greatest number of eyes, was indisputably lady Orkney. She exposed behind a mixture 182 LETTERS TO of fat and wrinkles ; and before, a very considerable protuberance which pre- ceded her. Add to this, the inimitable roll of her eyes, and her grey hairs which by good fortune stood directly upright, and 'tis impossible to imagine a more delightful spectacle. She had em- bellished all this with considerable mag- nificence, which made her look as big again as usual ; and I should have thought her one of the largest things of God's making if my lady St. J***n had not displayed all her charms in honour of the day. The poor duchess of JM***se crept along with a dozen of black snakes playing round her face, and my lady P***nd (who is fallen away since her dismission from court) represented very finely an Egyptian mummy embroidered over with hieroglyphics. In general, I could not perceive but that the old were as well pleased as the young ; and I, who dread growing wise more than any thing THE COUNTESS OF MAR. 183 in the world, was overjoyed to find that one can never outlive one's vanity. I have never received the long letter you talk of, and am afraid that you have only fancied that you wrote it. Adieu, dear sister; I am affectionately yours. IVI. WoRTLEY Montagu. 184 LETTERS TO TO THE COUNTESS OF MAR. Cavendish-square, J 727. My lady Stafford ' set out towards France this morning, and lias carried half the pleasures of my life along with her ; I am more stupid than I can descrihe, and am as full of moral reflections as either Cambray or Pascal. I think of nothing but the nothingness of the good things of this world, the transitoriness of its joys, the pungency of its sorrows, and many discoveries that have been made these three thousand years, and commit- ' Claude Charlotte, daughter of Philibert, count of Grammont (author of the celebrated Memoirs), and *' La Belle Hamilton," eldest daughter of sir George Hamilton, bart. was married to Henry Stafford Howard, earl of Stafford, at St. Germain's-en-laye» 1694. THE COUNTESS OF MAR. 185 ted to print, ever since the first presses. I advise you, as the best thing you can do that day, let it happen as it will, to visit lady Stafford : she has the goodness to carry with her a true-horn English- woman, who is neither good nor had, nor capable of being either ; lady Phil Prat by name, of the Hamilton family, and who will be glad of your acquaint- ance, and you can never be sorry for hers *. Peace or war, cross or pile, makes all the conversation ; the town never was fuller, and, God be praised, some people biille in it who hrilkd t\yenty years ago. My cousin Buller is of that number, who is just what she was in all respects when she inhabited Bond-street. The sprouts of this age are such green wither- ed things, 'tis a great comfort to us grown up people : I except my own ' Lady Philippa Hamilton, daughter of James earl of Abercorn, and wife of Dr. Pratt, dean of Downe. 18G LETTERS TO daughter, who is to be the ornament of the ensuing court. I beg you would exact from lady Stafford a particular of her perfections, which would sound su- spected from my hand ; at the same time I must do justice to a little twig belong- ing to my sister Gower. Miss Jenny is like the duchess of Queensberry both in face and spirit. A propos of family af- fairs : I had almost forgot our dear and amia]:>le cousin lady Denbigh, who has blazed out all this Avlnter ; she has brouoht with hei from Pai is cart-loads of riband, surprising fashion, and of the last edition, which naturally attracts all the she and he fools in London; and accordingly she is surrounded with a little court of both, and keeps a Sunday assembly to shew she has learned to play at cards, on that day. Lady Frances' ' Afterward the countess of Winchelsea. Died 1734. THE COUNTESS OF MAK. 187 Fielding is really the prettiest woman in town, and has sense enough to make one's heart ache to see her surrounded with such as her relations are. The man in England that gives the greatest plea- sure, and the greatest pain, is a youth of royal blood, with all his grandmo- ther's beauty, wit, and good qualities. In short, he is Nell Gwin in person, with the sex altered, and occasions such fra- cas amongst the ladies of gallantry that it passes description. You'll stare to hear of her grace of Cleveland at the head of them \ If I was poetical I would tell you — 1. The god of love, enrag'd to see The nymph despise his flame. At dice and cards misspend her nights. And slight a nobler game ; ' Anne, daughter of sir W. Pulteney of Mister- ton, in the county of Stafford} remarried to Philip Southcote, esq. Died 1/46, 188 LETTERS TO 2. For the neglect of offers past And pride in days of yore. He kindles up a fire at last. That burns her at threescore. 3. A polish'd wile is smoothly spread Where whilome wrinkles lay j And, glowing with an artful red, She ogles at the play. 4. Along the Mall she softly sails. In white and silver drest ; Her neck expos'd to Eastern gales, ^ And jewels on her breast. 5. Her children banish'd, age forgot. Lord Sidney is her care j And, what is much a happier lot. Has hopes to be her heir. This is all true history, though it is doggrel rhyme : in good earnest she has turned lady Barbara ' and family out of ' Lady Barbara Fitzroy, afterward countess of Darlington. THE COUNTESS OF MAR. 189 doors to make room for him, and tliere he lies Hke leaf-gold upon a pill ; there never was so violent and so indiscreet a passion. Lady Stafford says nothing was ever like it, since Phtedra and Hip- politus. — "Lord ha' mercy upon us! See what we may all come to !" M. W. ]\L 190 LETTERS TO TO THE COUNTESS OF MAR. Cavendish-square, 172/. I TAKE this occasion of writing to you, though I have received no answer to my last ; but if my letters can give you either consolation or amusement, you need never want them. I have no good opinion of sorrow in general, and think no sort of it worth cheiishing. You will wonder, perhaps, that lord Gower is become a great courtier; and that there is not one tory left in England. There is something extremely risible in these affairs, but not so proper to be communicated by letter ; and so I will, in an humble way, return to my domes- tics. I hear your daughter is a very fine young lady, and I wish you joy of it, as one of the greatest blessings of hfe. ]\Iy THE COUNTESS OF MAR. 191 girl gives me great prospect of satisfac- tion, but my young rogue of a son is the most ungovernable little rake that ever played truant. If I were inclined to lay worldly matters to heart, I could write a quire of complaints about it. You see no one is quite happy, though 'tis pretty much in my nature to con- sole upon all occasions. I advise you to do the same, as the only remedy against the vexations of life ; which in my conscience I think affords disao^reeable things to the highest ranks, and com- forts to the very lowest ; so that, upon the whole, things are more equally dis- posed among the sons of Adam, than they are generally thought to be. You see my philosophy is not so luguhre as yours. I am so far from avoiding com- pany, that I seek it on all occasions; and, when I am no longer an actor upon this stage (by the way, I talk of twenty years hence at the soonest), as a spectator I 192 TO THE COUNTESS OF MAR. shall laugh at the farcical actions which may then be represented, nature being exceedingly bountiful in all ages in pro- viding coxcombs, who are the greatest preservatives against the spleen that I ever could find out. I say all these things for your edification; which rules, if you execute with prudence, will dis- perse melancholy vapours, the sure found- ation of all distempers. I am your affectionate sister, Mary W. Montagu. LETTERS TO MR. WORT LEY, DURING HER SECOND RESIDENCE ABROAD; From 1739 to 1761 VOL. III. O LETTERS TO MR. W O R T L E Y. TO MR. WORTLEY. Calais, July 27, 1739. I AM safely arrived at Calais, and found myself better on ship-board than I have been these six months ; not in the least sick, though we had a very high sea, as you may imagine, since we came over in two hours and three quarters. My ser- vants behaved very well ; and Mary not in the least afraid, but said she would be drowned very willingly with my lady- ship. They ask me here extravagant prices for chaises, of wJiich there are o 2 196 LETTERS TO great clioice, both French and Italian ; I have at last bought one for fourteen guineas, of a man whom JNIr, Hall re- commended to me. My things have been examined and sealed at the Cus- tom-house : they took from me a pound of snuff, but did not open my jewel- boxes, which they let pass on my word, being tilings belonging to my dress. I set out early to-morrow. I am very im- patient to hear trom you : I could not stay for the post at Dover for fear of los- ing the tide. I beg you would be so good as to order Mr. Kent to pack up my sjde.^2Lddle, and all the tackle belonging to it, in a box, to be sent with my other things : if (as I hope) I recover m}^ health abroad so much as to ride, I can get none I shall like so well. MRi WORTLEYi 197 TO MR. WORTLEY. Dijon, Aug. IS;, 1739, N. S. I AM at length arrived here very safely, and without any had accident: and so much mended in my health, that I am surprised at it. France is so much im- proved, it would not be known to be the same country we passed through, twenty years ago. Every thing I see speaks in praise of cardinal Fleury : the roads are all mended, and the greater part of them paved as well as tlie streets of Paris, planted on both sides like the roads in Holland ; and such good care taken against robbers, that you may cross the country with your purse in your hand : but as to travelling incognita, I may as well walk incognita in the Pad-Mall. There is not any town in France where 19S LETTERS TO there are not English, Scotch, or Irish families established; and I have met with people that have seen me (though often such as I do not remember to have seen) in every town I have passed through ; and I think the farther I go, the more acquaintance I meet. Here are in this town no less than sixteen English families of fashion. Lord Mansel lodges in the house with me, and a daughter of lord Bathurst's (Mrs. Whitshed) is in the same street. The duke of Rutland is gone from hence some time ago, as lady Peterborough told me at St. Omer's ; which was one reason that determined me to come here, thinking to be quiet ; but I find it impossible, and that will make me leave the place, after the return of this post. The French are more changed than their roads; instead of pale, yellow faces, wrapped up in blank- ets, as we saw them, the villages are all tilled with fresh- coloured lusty peasants, MR. WORTLEY. 199 in good clothes and clean linen. It is incredible what an air of plenty and con- tent is over the whole country. I hope to hear as soon as possible, that you are in good health. 200 LETTERS TO TO MR. WORTLEY. Turin, Sept. 10, 1739. I AM now, thank God, happily past the Alps. I believe I wrote to you, that I had met English of my acquaintance in every town in France. This fortune continued to the last; for at Port Beau- voisin I met lord Carlisle, who was in the inn when I arrived, and immediately came to offer me his room, his cook to dress my supper (lie himself having sup- ped befoi e 1 came in), and ail sorts of ci- vility. We passed the evening together, and had a great deal of discourse. He said he liked Rome so well, that he should not have left it so soon, but on the account of lord Morpeth, who was so ill there, that he was not yet recover- MR. WORTLEY. 201 ,ed, and now carried in a litter. His distemper lias been the bloody flux, wliich returned upon him in the moun- tains with so much violence, they had been kept three weeks at a miserable vil- lage ; he is still so v/eak that I did not see him. My lord Carlisle * told me that next to Rome the best place to stay in Italy is, without contradiction, Venice: that the impertinence of the little sove- reij^ns in other countries is intolerable. I have no objection to his advice, but the fear of the air not agreeing with me, though my journey has now so far esta- blished myhealtli, that I have lost all my bad symptoms, a.id am ready to tiiink I could even bear the damps of London. I will therefore venture to try, and if I find Venice too cold or moist (which I am * Henry Howard, earl of Carlisle, died 1/58, and his son Charles, lord Mor^jetli, in August, J 74 1. 202 LETTERS TO more afraid of), I can remove very easily ; tliougli I resolve against Rome, on an account, which you may guess. My lord Carlisle said, he thought me in the right ; that it is very hard to avoid meeting a certain person ; and there are so many little dirty spies that write any lie which comes in their heads, that the doing it may be dangerous. I have received a letter from lady Pomfret, that she is leaving Vienna, and intends for Venice, which is another inducement to me to go there ; but the chief is the hopes of living as (piietly and as privately as I pleasei which hitherto I have found impossiblej The English resident here, Mr. Villette, &c. came to wait on me the very night of my arrival, to my great surprise. I found the intelligence came from the king of Sardinia's officers, who were at Pont Voisin, and had learnt my name from lord Carlisle's servants. I have MR. WORT LEY. 20S been obliged to excuse my going to court, as having no court-dress, and saying that I intended to leave the tov/n in a few days. However, I have not been able to avoid the visits that have been made to me. 201. LETTERS TO TO MR. WORTLEY* Venice, Sept. 25, 1739. I AM at lengtli happily arrived here, I thank God ; I wish it had been my ori- ginal plan, which would have saved me some money and fatigue; though I have not much reason to regret the last, since I am convinced it has greatly contri- buted to the restoration of my health. I met nothing disagreeable on my journey but too much company. I find (con- trary to the rest of the world) I did not think myself so considerable as I am ; for I verily believe, if one of the Pyramids of Egypt had travelled, it could not have been more followed; and if I had re- ceived all tlie visits that have been in- tended me, I should have stopped at least two years in every town I came MR. WORTLEY. 205 through. I liked IMilan so well, that if I had not desired all ni}^ letters to be di- rected hither, I think I should have been tempted to stay there. One of the plea- sures I found there m as the Borromean library, ^vhere all strangers have free access ; and not only so, but liberty, on giving a note for it, to take any printed book home with them. I saw several curious manuscripts there; and as a proof of my recovery, I went up to the very top of the dome of the great church without any assistance. I am now in a lodging on the great canal. Lady Pom- fret 1 is not yet arrived, but I expect her very soon ; and if the air does not disa- ' Henrietta Louisa, daughter and heir of lord chan- cellor JefFeries, wife of Thomas earl of Pomfret. She resided chiefly at Rome, where she wrote tlie Life of Vandyck . A part of the collection of marbles made by Thomas earl of Arundel, having been purchased by William carl of Pomfret, was given by her to the university of Oxford, in 1758. 206 LETTERS TO gree with me, I intend seeing the Car- nival here. I hope your health conti- nues, and that I shall hear from you very soon. MR WORTLEY. 207 TO MR. WORTLEY. Venice, October 14, t^5g. I FIND myself very well here. 1 am visited by the most considerable people of the town, and all the foreign mi- nisters, who have most of them made en- tertainments for me. I dined yesterday at the Spanish embassador's, who even surpassed the French in magnificence. He let me in at the hall-door, and the lady met me at the stair-head, to conduct me through the long apartment ; in short, they could not have shewn me more ho- nours, if I had been an embassadress. She desired me to think myself Patrona del Casa, and offered me all the services in her power, to wait on me when I pleas- ed, &c. They have the finest palace in Venice. AVhat is very convenient, I 208 LUTTES-S TO hear it is not at all expected that I should make any dinners, it not b^ing the fashion for any body to do it here, but the foreign ministers ; and I find I can live here very genteelly on my allow- ance. I have already a very agreeable general acquaintance ; though when I came, here was no one I had ever seen in my life, but the cavaliere Grimani and the abb6 Conti. I must do them the justice to say they have taken pains to be obliging to me. The procurator brought his niece (who is at the head of his family) to wait on me ; and they in- vited me to reside with them at their palace on the Brent, but I did not think it proper to accept of it. He also intro- duced to me the signora Pisani Moce- nigo, who is the most considerable lady here. The nuncio is particularly civil to me ; he has been several times to see me, and has offered me the use of his box at the opera. I have many others MR. WORTLEY. 209 at my service, and in short it is impos- sible for a stranger to be better received than I am. Here are no English, except a Mr. Berlie and his governour, who ar- rived two days ago, and who intend but a short stay. I hope 3^ou are in good health, and that I shall hear of it before you can receive this letter. VOL. III. 10 LETTERS TO TO MR. WORTLEY. Venice, Dec. 25, 1739, 0. S. I RECEIVED yours yesterday dated Dec. 7. I find my health very well here, not- withstanding the cold, which is very sharp, but the sun shines as clear as at midsummer. I am treated here with more distinction than I could possibly expect. I went to see the ceremony of high mass celebrated by the doge, on Christmas eve. He appointed a gallery for me and the prince of Wolfembatch, where no other person was admitted but those of our company. A greater com- pliment could not have been paid me if I had been a sovereign princess. The doge's niece (he having no lady) met me at the palace-gate, and led me through the palace to the church of St. MR. WORTLEY. 211 Mark, where the ceremony was perform- ed in the pomp you know, and we u'ere not obhged to any act of adoration. The electoral prince of Saxony is here in public, and makes a prodigious expence. His governor is count Wackerbart, son to that madame Wackerbart with Avhom I was so intimate at Vienna ; on which account he shews me particular civilities, and obliges his pupil to do the same. I was last night at an entertain- ment made for him by the signora Pisani Mocenigo, which was one of the finest I ever saw, and he desired me to sit next to him in a great chair : in short I have all the reason that can be, to be satisfied with my treatment in this town ; and I am glad I met lord Carlisle, who di- rected me hither. I have so little correspondence at Lon- don, I should be pleased to hear from you whatever happens among my ac- p 2 212 LETTERS TO quaintance. I am sorry for ]\Ir. Pel- ham's misfortune ' ; though 'tis long since, tliat I have looked on the hopes of con- tinuing a family as one of the vainest of mortal prospects. Tho' Solomon, with a thousand wives. To get a wise successor strives j But one^ and he a fool, survives. The procurator of St. Mark has de- sired his compliments to you whenever I write. * The death of his two sons on two following idays, Nov. 27, 28, 1739. MR, WORTLEY. 213 TO MR. WORTLEY. Venice^ Jan. 2.5, 1 739-40. I WROTE to you last post; but as I do not know whether 1 was particular enough in answering all the questions you asked me, I add the folloAving ac- count, which I do not wonder will sur- prise you, since botli the procurator Grimani and the abbe Conte tell me often, that these last twenty years have so far changed the customs of Venice, that they hardly know it for the same coun- try. Here are several foreign ladies of quality, I mean Germans, and iroin other parts of Italy ; but not one French- woman. They are all well received hy the gentil donnas, who make a vanity in introducing them to the assemblies and their public diversions, though all those 214 LETTERS TO ladies, as well as myself, go frequently to the princesse of Campo Florida's (the vSpanish embassadress') assembly. She is in a very particular manner obliging to me, and is I really think one of the best sort of M^omen I ever knew. The Neapolitan (though he has been here som.e months) makes his public entry to-- day, which I am to go see about an hour hence. He gives a great entertain- ment to-night, where all the noble Vene- tians of both sexes will be in masque. I am engaged to go with the signora Justiniani Gradinego, who is one of the first ladies here. The prince of Saxony lias invited me to come into his box at the opera ; but I have not yet accepted of it, he having always the four ladies with him that are wives to the four se- nators deputed to do the honours of Ve- nice ; and I am afraid they should think I interfere with them in the honour of his conversation, which they are very fond MR. WORTLEY. 215 of, and have behaved very coldly to some other noble Venetian ladies that have taken the liberty of his box. I will be directed in this (as I am in all public matters) by the procurator Grimani. My letter is shortened by the arrival of the signora. 216 LETTERS TO TO MR. WORTLEY. Venice, March 2g, J 740. The letters ]\fr. Waters mentions from MTre pretty much in the usual style ; he desires to lca\'e the town where he now is, because he says there is no temptation to riot, and he would shew how able he is to resist it : I ansM'er him this post, and shall endeavour to shew him mildly the necessity of being easy in his present situation. Now lord Gran by' leaves this place to-morrow, to set out for Constantinople ; the prince of Saxony stays till the second of May; in the mean time there are entertainments ^ John Manners, the lieroic marquis of Granby, was born in 1/20. Commander in chief in Ger- many, 1762. Died 1770. MR. WORTLEY. '211 given him almost every clay of one sort or other, and a Regatta preparing, which is expected by all strangers with great impatience. He went to see the arsenal three days ago, M'aited on, by a nnnierous nobility of both sexes ; the Bucentaur was adorned and launched, a magnifi- cent collation given, and we sailed a little way in it : I was in company v\'ith the signora Justiniani Gradincgo, and sionora Marina Crizzo. As you have been at Venice, there is no occasion of de- scribing those things to you. There were two cannons founded in his presence, and a galley built a'nd launched in aa liour's time. Last night there was a concert of voices and instruments at the Hospital of the Incurabili, where there were two girls that in the opinion of all people excel either Faustina or Cazzoni, but you knoM' they are never permitted to sin"- on anv theatre. 21 S LETTERS TO Lord Fitzwilliam is expected in this, town to-niii;lit, on his return to England, as I am told. The prince's behaviour is very obliging to all, and in no part of it liable to censure, though I think there is nothing to be said in praise of his ge- nius ; and I suppose you know he has been lame from his birth, and is carried about in a chair, though a beautiful per- son from the waist upwards : It is said his family design him for the church, he having four brothers who are fine child- ren. The weather is now very fine ; we have had none of the canals frozen, in the coldest part of the winter, but the mountains are still covered with snow. Your last letters have said nothing of my baggage. If there is danger of its being taken by the privateers, 1 had ra- ther it staid in England, and I would ' He died 17,56. MR. WORTLET. 219 go into the southern part of France, Avhere it might be conveyed to me with- out hazard, than risk the loss of it. — If there is a probabihty of a rupture with France, 1 can go to Avignon. 220 LETTERS TO TO MR. WORTLEY. Venice, April ig, 1740, N.S. I RECEIVED yours of January 1 but yesterday ; for which reason I think it useless to answer it at present, but if I find any occasion shall not fail to follow your orders. Lord Granby is set out on his journey for Constantinople. Lord Fitzwilliam arrived here three days ago ; he came to see me the next day, as all the English do, who are much surprised at the civilities and the familiarity with which I am received by the noble ladies. Every body tells me 'tis what never was done but to myself; and I own I have a little vanity in it, because the French embassador told me when I first came. MR. WORTLEY. 221 that though the procurator Grimani might persuade them to visit me, he defied me to enter into any sort of intimacy with them: instead of which they call me out ahnost every day on some diver- sion or other, and are desirous to have me in all their parties of pleasure. I am invited to-morrow to the Foscarini to dinner, which is to he followed by a concert and a ball, where I shall be the only stranger, though here are at present a great number come to see the Regatta, which is fixed for the 29th of this month, N. S. I shall see it at the procurator Grimani's, where there will be a great entertainment that day. My own house is very well situated to see it, being on the Grand Canal ; but I would not re- fuse him and his niece, since they seem desirous of my company, and I shall oblige some other ladies with my win- 222 LETTERS TO clowns. They are hired at a great rate to see the show. I suppose you know the nature of it, but if it will be any amuse- ment I will send, you a particular de- scription. MPw VVORTLEV. 223 TO MR. WORTLEY. Venice, June 1^ 1740. I WROTE you a long letter yesterday, which I sent by a private hand, who will see it safely delivered. It is impos- sible to be better treated, I may even say more courted, than I am here. I am very glad of your good fortune at London.'^ You may remem]}er, I have always told you it is in your power to make the first figure in the House of Commons. As to the bill, I perfectly remember the pay- ing of it; which you may easily believe when you enquire, that all auction bills are paid at farthest within eight days after the sale : The date of this is March 1, and I did not leave London till July 95 ; and in that time have been at many other auctions, particularly lord Hali- 224 LETTERS TO fax's, which was a short time before my journey. This is not the first of Cock's mistakes ; he is famous for making them, which are (he says) the fault of his ser- vants. You seem to mention the Re- gatta in a manner as if you woukl be pleased with a description of it* It is a race of boats : they are accompanied by vessels which they call Piotes or Bi- chones, that have a mind to display their magnificence ; they are a sort of machines adorned with all that sculpture and gilding can do to make a shining appearance. Several of them cost one thousand pounds sterling, and I believe none less than five hundred : thev are rowed by gondoliers dressed in rich ha- bits, suitable to what they represent. There Mere enough of them to look like a little fleet, and I own I never saw a finer sight. It would be too long to describe every one in particular, I shall only name the principal : — The Signora Pisani Mo- MR. WORTLEY. 225 cinego's represented the Chariot of th@ Night, drawn by four sea-horses, and shewing the rising of the moon, accom- panied with stars, the statues on each side representing the hours to the num- ber of twenty-four, rowed by gondoliers in rich Hveries, Avhich were changed three times, all of equal richness, and the decorations changed also to the dawn of Aurora and the mid -day sun, the sta- tues being new dressed every time, the first in green, the second time red, and the last blue, all equally laced with sil- ver, there being three races. Signor Soranto represented the kingdom of Po- land, with all the provinces and rivers in that dominion, with a concert of the best instrumental music in rich Polish habits ; the painting and gilding were ex- quisite in their kinds. Signor Contair- ni's piote shewed the liberal arts ; Apollo was seated on the stern upon mount Par- nassus, Pegasus ])ehind, and the Muses VOL. III. Q, 226 LETTERS TO seated round him : opposite was a figure representing Painting, with Fame blow- ing her trumpet ; and on each side Sculp- ture and Music in their proper dresses. The procurator Foscarini's was the chariot of Flora guided by Cupids, and adorn- ed with all sorts of flowers, rose-trees, &c. Signor Julio Contarini's represent- ed the triumphs of Valour ; Victory was on the stern, and all the ornaments war- like trophies of every kind. Signor Corre- ri's was the Adriatic Sea receiving into her arms the Hope of Saxony. Signor Alvi- sio Mocenigo's was the garden of Hes- perides ; the whole fable was represented by diflerent statues. Signor Querini had the chariot of Venus drawn by doves, so well done, they seemed ready to fly upon the water ; the Loves and Graces attended her. Signor Paul Do- ria had the cliariot of Diana, who ap- peared hunting in a large wood ; the trees, hounds, stag, and nymphs, all done MR. WORTLEY. 227 naturally : the gondoliers dressed like peasants attending the chace; andEndy- mion, lying under a large tree, gazing on the goddess. Signer Angelo Labbia represented Poland crowning Saxony, Avaited on by the Virtues and subject Provinces. Signer Angelo «Molino was Neptune waited on by the Rivers. Sig- ner Vicenzo Morosini's piote shewed the triumphs of Peace ; Discord being- chained at her feet, and she, surrounded with the Pleasures, &c. I believe you are already weary of this description, which can give you but a very imperfect idea of the show ; but I must say one word of the bichonis, which are less vessels, quite open, some repre- senting gardens, others apartments, all the oars being gilt either with gold or silver, and the gondoliers' liveries either velvet or rich silk, with a profusion of lace, fringe, and embroidery. I saw this show at the procurator Grimani's house, Q 2 228 LETTERS TO which was near the place where the prizes were delivered: there was a great assem- bly invited on the same occasion, which were all nobly entertained. I can get no better ink here, though I have tried several times, and it is a great vexation to me to want it. MR. WORTLEY. 229 TO MR. WORTLEY. Florence, Aug. 11;, 1740. This is a very fine town, and I am much amused with visiting the gallery, which I do not doubt you remember too well to need any description of. Lord and lady Pomfret take pains to make the place agreeable to me, and I have been visited by the greatest part of the people of quality. Here is an opera which I have heard twice, but it is not so fine either for voices or decorations as that at Venice. I am very willing to be at Leg- horn when my things arrive, which I fear will hinder my visiting Rome this season, except they come sooner than is generally expected. If I could go from thence by sea to Naples with safety, I should prefer it to a land journey, which 230 LETTERS TO I am told is very difficult ; and that it is impossible I should stay there long, the people being entirely unsociable. I do not desire much company, but would not confine myself to a place where I could see none. I have written to your daughter, directed to Scotland, this post. MR. WORTLEY. 231 TO MR. WORTLEY. Rome, Oct. 24, 1 740. I ARRIVED here in good health three days ago, and this is the first post- day. I have taken a lodging for a month, which is (as they tell me) but a short time to take a view of all the antiquities, &c. that are to be seen. From hence I pur- pose to set out for Naples. I am told by every body that I shall not find it agree- able to reside in. I expect lady Pomfret here in a few days. It is summer here, and I left winter at Florence ; the snows having begun to fall on the mountains. I shall probably see the new ceremony of the Pope's taking possession of the Va- tican, which is said to be the finest, that is ever performed at Rome. I have no news to send from hence. If you would 232 LETTERS TO have me speak to any particular point, 1 beg 3^011 Avill let me know it, and I will give you the best information I am able. MR. WORTLEY. -233 TO MR. WORTLEY. Rome, Nov. 1, 1740, N.S. I HAVE now been here a week, and am very well diverted with viewing the fine buildings, paintings, and antiquities. I have neither made nor received one visit, nor sent word to any body of my arrival, on purpose to avoid interruptions of that sort. The weather is so fine that I walk every evening in a different beautiful garden ; and I own I am charmed with what 1 see of this town, though there yet remains a great deal more to be seen. I purpose making a stay of a month, which shall be entirely taken up in that employment, and then I will remove to Naples, to avoid, if possible, feeling the winter. I do not trouble you with any descriptions, since you have been here, 234- LETTERS TO and I suppose very well remember every thing that is worth remembering; but (as 1 mentioned in my last) if you would have me speak to any particular point, I will give you the best information in my power. Direct your next letter to Monsieur Belloni, Banquier, a Rome. He will take care to deliver it to me, either here or at Naples. Letters are very apt to miscarry, especially those to this place. MU. WORTLEY. 235 TO MR. WORTLEY. Rome, Nov. 12, 1740. I SHALL set out for Naples on next Fri- day : I do not doubt liking the situation, but by all the information I can get, it will be every way improper for my re- sidence ; and I purpose no longer stay there, than is necessary to see what is curious. 1 have been very diligent in viewing every thing here ; making no acquaintance, that I might have no in- terruption. Here is a statue of Antinous lately found, Avhich is said to be equal to any in Rome, and is to be sold ; perhaps the duke of Bedford might be glad to hear of it. I do not hear of one valuable picture that is to be purchased. It has been this last week as dark and rainy as ever I saw it in England. Your letter of 236 LETTERS TO September 23 came to me but this day. I perceive letters are stopped and per- used more carefully than ever, which hinders my writing any of the reports I hear ; some of them are very extraordi- nary. The emperor's embassador here has taken the character of the queen of Bohemia's, and, as such, presented his credentials, which have been received. MR. WORTLEY. 237 TO MR. WORTLEY. Naples, Nov. 23, N. S. ] 740. I ARRIVED here last nigbt, after a very disagreeable journey : I would not in iny last give you any account of the present state of Rome, knowing all letters are opened there ; but I cannot help men- tioning what is more curious than all the antiquities, which is, that there is liter- ally no money in the whole town, where they follow Mr. Law's scheme, and live wholly upon paper. Eelloni, who is the greatest banker not only of Rome but all Italy, furnished me with fifty sequins, which he solemnly swore was all the money he had in the house. They go to market with paper, pay the lodgings Avith paper, and, in short, there is no specie to be seen, which 2^8 LETTERS TO raises the price of every thing to the utmost extravagance, nobody knoMnng what to ask for their goods. It is said the jDresent Pope (who has a very good charact'er) has declared he will endeavour a remedy, though it is very difficult to find one. He was bred a lawyer, and has passed the greatest part of his life in that profession; and is so sensible of the misery of the state, that he is reported to have said, that he never thought himself in want, till his elevation. He has no re- lations that he takes any notice of; but the country belonging to him, which *I have passed, is almost uninhabited, and in a poverty beyond au}^ thing I ever saw. The kingdom of Naples appears gay and flourishing ; and the town so crowded with people, that I have with great diffi- culty got a very sorry lodging. MR. WORTLEY. 2.39' TO MR. WORTLEY. Naples, Dec. 6, 1740. I HEARD last night the good news of the arrival of the ship on which my things are loaded, at Leghorn : it would be easy to have them conveyed hither: I like the climate extremely, which is now so soft, thati am actually sitting without any want of a fire. I do not find the people so savage as they were represented to me. I have received visits from several of the principal ladies; and I think I could meet with as much company here as I desire; but here is one article both dis- agreeable and incommodious, which is the grandeur of the equipages. Two coaches, two running footmen, four other footmen, a gentleman usher, and two pages, are as necessary here as the 240 LETTERS TO attendance of a single servant is at Lon- don. All the Spanish customs are ob- served very rigorously. I could content myself with all of them except this: but I see plainly, from my own observation as well as intelligence, that it is not to be dispensed with, Adiich I am heartily vexed at. The affairs of Europe are now so un- certain, that it appears reasonable to me to wait a little, before I fix my residence, that I may not find myself in the theatre of war, which is threatened on all sides. I hope you have the continuation of your health ; mine is very well established at present. The town lately discovered is at Portici, about three miles from this place. Since the first discovery, no care has been taken, and the ground fallen in, so that the present passage to it is, as I am told by every body, extremely danger- ous, and for sometime, nobody ventures into it. I have been assured by some MR. WORTLEY. 241 English gentlemen, who were let down into it the last year, that the whole ac- count given in the newspapers is lite- rally true, probably great curiosities might be found there; but there has been no cxpence made, either by propping the ground or clearing away into it; and as the earth falls in daily, it will possibly be soon stopped up, as it was before. I wrote to you last post, a particular ac- count of my reasons for not choosing my residence here, though the air is very agreeable to me, and I see I could have as much company as I desire ; but I am persuaded the climate is much chanoed since you knew it. The weather is now very moist and misty, and has been so for along time; however it is much softer than in any other place I know. I de- sire you Avould direct to monsieur Bel- loni, banker, at Rome : he will forward VOL. III. It 242 LETTERS TO your letters wherever I am ; the present uncertain situation of affairs all over Europe makes every correspondence pre- carious. MR. WORTLE'SJ. 243 TO MR. WORTLEY. Ronie,Jan. 13, 1740-1, N.S. I RETURNED hither last night, after six week' stay at Naples ; great part of that time was vainly taken up in endeavour- ing to satisfy your curiosity and my own, in relation to the late-discovered town of Herculaneum. I waited eight days in hopes of permission to see the pictures and other rarities taken from thence, which are preserved in the king's palace at Portici ; hut I found it \vas to no pur- pose, his majesty keeping the key in his own cabinet, which he would not part with, though the prince de Zathia (who is one of his favourites) I believe very sincerely tried his interest to obtain it for me. He is son to the Spanish em- bassador 1 knew at Venice, and both he R 2 244 LETTERS TO and his lady loaded me with civilities at Naples. The court in general is more barbarous than any of the ancient Goths. One proof of it, among many others, was melting down a beautiful copper statue of a vestal found in this new ruin, to make medallions for the late solemn christen- ing. The M'hole court follow the Spa- nish customs and politics. I could say a good deal on this subject if I thought my letter would come safe to your hands ; the apprehension it may not, hin- ders my answering another enquiry you make, concerning a family here, of which indeed I can say little, avoiding all commerce with those that frequent it. Here are some young English tra- vellers ; among them lord Strafford » ' William Wentworth, the fourth earl of Straf- ford, married lady Anne, second daughter of John duke of Argyll, sister of lady Mary Coke and lady Betty Mackenzie. He built Wentworth castle, in Yorkshire, and was eminently skilled in architecture MR. WORTLEY. 245 behaves himself really very modestly and genteelly, and has lost the ]}ertness he acquired in his motlier's assembly. Lord Lincoln appears to have spirit and sense, and professes great abhorrence of all measures destructive to the liberty of his countr3\ I do not know how far the young men may be corrupted on their return, but the majority of those I have seen, have seemed strongly in tlie same sentiment. Lady Newburgh's eldest daughter, whom I believe you may have seenat lord Westmorland's, is married to count IVIahony, mIio is in great figure at Naples : she Mas extremely obliging to me ; they made a fine entertainment for me, carried me to the opera, and were civil to me to the utmost of their pow- er. If you should happen to see Mrs. and vertii. He enjoyed an intimate friendship with the last lord Orford, in the fifth volume of whose works his correspondence is published from 1756 to 1790. 246 LETTERS TO Bulkely, I wish you would make her some comphment upon it. I received this day yours of the 20th and 28th of November. MR. WORTLEY. 247 TO MR. WORTLEY. Leghorn ;, Feb. 25, 1740-1, N.S. I ARRIVED here last night, and have re- ceived this morning the bill of seven hundred and five dollars, odd money. I shall be a little more particular in my accounts from hence than I durst be from Rome, where all the letters are opened and often stopped. I hope you had mine, relating to the antiquities in Naples. I shall now say something of the court of Rome. The first minister, cardinal Valenti, has one of the best cha- racters I ever heard of, though of no great birth, and has made his fortune by an attachment to the duchess of Salviah. The present pope is very much beloved, and seems desirous to ease the people and deliver them out of the miserable 248 LETTERS TO poverty they are reduced to. I will send you the history of his elevation, as I liad it from a very good hand, if it will be any amusement to you. I never saw the chevalier, during my whole stay at Rome. I saw his two sons at a public ball in masque ; they were very richly adorned AV'ith jewels. The eldest seems thought- less enough, and is really not unlike Mr. Lyttleton ' in his shape and air. The youngest is very well made, dances iinely, and has an ingenuous counten- ance; he is but fourteen years of age. The family live very splendidly, yet pay every body, and (wherever they get it) are certainly in no want of money. I heard at Rome the truly tiagical history of the princess Sobeiski, which is very different from what was said at London. The pope, Clement the Twelfth, was * George Lord Lyttleton. MR. WORTLEY. 24^ commonly supposed her lover, and she used to go about publicly in his state coach to the great scandal of the people. Her husband's mistress spirited him up to resent it, so far that he left Rome upon it, and she retired to a convent, where she destroyed herself. The Eng- lish travellers at Rome behaved in gene- ral very discreetly. I have reason to speak well of them, since they were all exceedingly obliging to me. It may sound a little vain to say it, but tliey really paid' a regular court to me, as if 1 had been their queen, and their govern- ors told me, that the desire of my ap- probation had a very great influence on their conduct. While 1 staid there was neither gaming nor any sort of extrava- gance. I used to preach to them very freely, and they all thanked me foj- it. I shall stay some time in this town, 250 LETTERS TO where I expect lady Pomfret. I think I have answered every particular you seemed carious about. If there be any other poiiit you v/ould have me speak of, I will be as exact as I can. IR WORTLEY. 251 TO MR. WORTLEY. Turing April 11, 17-11. I TAKE this opportunity of writing to you on many subjects in a freer manner than I durst do by the post, knowing that all letters are opened both here and in other places, M'hich occasions them to be often lost, besides other inconve- niences that may happen. The English politics are the general jest of all the na- tions I have passed through ; and even those who profit by our folly cannot help laughing at our notorious blunders; though they are all persuaded that the minister does not act from weakness but corruption, and that the Spanish gold influences his measures. I had a long discourse with count Mahony on this 252 LETTERS TO subject, who said, very freely, that half the ships sent to the coast of Naples, that have lain idle in our ports last summer, would have frightened the queen of Spain into a submission to whatever terms we thought proper to impose. The people, who are loaded with taxes, hate the Spanish government, of which I had daily proofs, hearing them curse the Eng- lish for bringing their king to them, whenever they saw any of our nation : but I am not much surprised at the ig- norance of our ministers, after seeing what creatures they employ to send them intelligence. Except Mr. Villette, at this court, there is not one that has com- mon sense : I say this without prejudice, all of them having been as civil and ser- viceable to me as they could. I was told at Rome, and convinced of it by cir- cumstances, that there have been great endeavours to raise up a sham plot : the person who told it me was an English an- MR. WORTLEY. 253 tiqiiarian, who said he had been offered any money to send accusations. The truth is, he had carried a letter, written by Mr. Mann', from Florence to that pur- pose to him, which he shewed in the Eng- lish palace; however, I believe he is a spy, and made use of that stratagem to gain credit. This court makes great pre- parations for war : the king is certainly no bright genius, but has great natural humanity : his minister, who has abso- lute power, is generally allowed to have sense ; as a proof of it, he is not hated as the generality of ministers are. I have seen neither of them, not going to court because I will not be at the trouble and expence of the dress, which is the same as at Vienna. I sent my excuse by Mr. Villette, as I hear is commonly practised by ladies that are only passengers. I liave had a m-e^t number of visitors ; the ' Sir Horace Mann. 254 LETTERS TO nobility piquing themselves on civility to strangers. The weather is still exceed- ingly cold, and I do not intend to move till I have the prospect of a pleasant journey. MR. WORTLEY. 255 TO MR. WORTLEY. Genoa;, July 15, 1/41, It is so long since I have heard from you, that though I hope your silence is occasioned by your being in the country, yet I cannot help being very uneasy, and in some apprehension that you are indis- posed. I wrote you word, some time ago, that I have taken a house here for the remainder of the summer, and desired you would direct, recommande a monsieur Birtles, cojisul de S» M. Britannique, I saw in the last newspapers (which he sends me) the death of Lord Oxford. I am vexed at it, for the reasons you know, and recollect what I 've often heard you say, that it is impossible to judge what is best for ourselves. I received yesterday the bill for —— -. for which I return yoff 256 LETTERS TO thanks. If I wrote you all the political stories I hear, I should have a great deal to say. A great part is not true, and what I think so, I dare not mention, in consideration of the various hands this paper must pass through hefore it reaches you. Lord Lincoln ' and Mr. Walpole " (youngest son to sir Rohcrt) left this place two days ago ; they visited me dur- ing their short stay ; they are gone to Marseilles, and design passing some months in the south of France. 1 have had a particular account of lord Orford's deaths from a very good hand, which he advanced hy choice, refusing all remedies till it was too late to make ' Henry Clinton, earl of Lincoln, married Catlia- rine, daughter of Henry Pelham, and was afterward duke of Newcastle. ^ Honourable Horace Walpole, the last earl of Orford, then on his travels. ^ Robert, the second earl of Orford^ died in June, 1741. MR. WORTLEY. 257 use of tliem. There was a will found, dated 1728, in which he gave every thing to my lady; which has affected her very much. Notwithstanding the many reasons she had to complain of him, I always thought there was more weakness than dishonesty in his actions, and is a con- firmation of the truth of that maxim of Mr. Rochefoucault, un sot n\i pas assez d' ttnffe pour etre honnete homme. VOL. Ill, ^ s LETTERS TO TO MR. WORTLEY. Genoa, Aug. 25, 1741, N. S. I RECEIVED yours of the £7th July this morning. I had that of March ig, which I answered very particularly the following post, with many thanks for the increase of my allowance. It appears to me that the letters I wrote between the 1 1 th of April and the 31st of May were lost^ which I am not surprised at. I was the» at Turin, and that court in a very great confusion, and extremely jealous of me, thinking I came to examine their con- duct. I have some proof of this, which. I do not repeat, lest this should be stop- ped also. The manners of Italy are so much changed since we were here last, the al- teration is scarcely credible. They say MR. WORTLEY. 259 it has been by the last war. The French, being masters, introduced all their cus- toms, which Mere eagerly embraced by the ladies, and I believe will never be laid aside; yet the different governments make different manners in every state. You know, though the republic is not rich, here are many private families vastly so, and live at a great superfluous expence : all the people of the first qua- lity keep coaches as fine as the Speaker's, and some of them two or three, thouo-h the streets are too narrow to use them in the town ; but they take the air in them, and their chairs carry them to the gates. The liveries are all plain : gold or silver being forbidden to be worn within the walls, the habits are all obliged to be black, but they wear exceedingly fine lace and linen ; and in their country- houses, which are generally in the faux- bourg, they dress very richly, and have extremely fine jewels. Here is nothino^ s 2 260 LETTERS TO cheap but houses. A palace fit for a prince may be hired for fifty pounds per annum: I mean unfurnished. All games of chance are strictly prohibited, and it seems to me the only law they do not try to evade : they play at quadrille, picquet, &c, but not high. Here are no regular public assemblies. I have been visited by all of tlie first rank, and invited to several fine dinners, particularly to the wedding of one of the House of Spinola, where there were ninety-six sat down to table, and I think the entertainment one of the finest I ever saw. There was the night following a ball and supper for the same con^pany, with the same profusion. They tell me that all their great marriages are kept in the same public manner. Nobody keeps more than two horses, all their journeys being post ; the expence of them, including the coachman, is (I am told) fifty pounds per annum. A chair is very neaily as much ; I give MR. WORTLEY. 261 eighteen francs a-week for mine. The senators can converse with no strangers during the time of their magistracy, which lasts two years. The number of servants is regulated, and almost every Jady has the same, Avhich is two foot- men, a gentleman -usher, and a page, who follow her chair. 262 LETTERS TO TO MR. WORTLEY. Geneva^ Oct. 12, 174J. I ARRIVED here last night, where I find every thing quite different from what it was represented to me : it is not the first time it has so happened to me on my travels. Every thing is as dear as it is at London. 'Tis true, as all equipages are forbidden, that expence is entirely re- trenched. I have been visited this morn- ing by some of the chiefs of the town, who seem extremely good sort of people, which is their general character ; very desirous of attracting strangers to in- habit with them, and consequently very officious in all they imagine can please them. The way of living is absolutely the reverse of that in Italy. Here is no show, and a great deal of eating ; there is MR. WORTLEY. 265 all the magnificence imaginable, and no dinners but on particular occasions ; yet the difference of the prices renders the total expence very nearly equal. As I am not yet determined whether I shall make any considerable stay, I desire not to have the money you intended me, till I ask for it. If you have any curiosity for the present condition of any of the states of Italy, I believe I can give you a truer account than perhaps any other traveller can do, having always had the good fortune of a sort of intimacy with the first persons in the governments where I resided, and they not guarding themselves against the observations of a woman, as they would have done from those of a man. 264 LETTERS TO TO MR. WORTLEY. Geneva, Nov. 5, 1741, N.S. I HAVE been here a month : I have wrote to you three times without hearing from you, and cannot help being uneasy at your silence. I think this air does not agree with my health. I have had a re- turn of many complaints from which I had an entire cessation during my stay in Italy, which makes me incline to re- turn thither, though a winter journey over the Alps is very disagreeable. The people here are very well to be liked, and this little republic has an air of the simplicity of old Rome in its earliest age. The magistrates toil with their own hands, and their wives literally dress their dinners against their return from their little senate. Yet without dress or MR. WORTLEY. 265 equipage 'tis as clear living here for a stranger, as in places where one is obliged to both, from the price of all sort of pro- vision, which they are forced to buy from their neighbours, having almost no land of their own. I am very impatient to hear from you. Here are many re- ports concerning the English affairs, which I am sometimes splenetic enough to give credit to. 366 LETTERS TO TO MR. WORTLEY. Chambeiry, Nov. 30, 1741, N. S. I RECEIVED this morning yours of Oc- tober 26, wliich has taken nie out of the uneasiness of fearing for your health. I suppose you know before this, the Spa- niards are landed at different ports in Italy, Sec. When I received early in- formation of the design, I had the cha- rity to mention it to the Enghsh Consul (without naming my informer) ; he laugh- ed, and answered it was impossible. This may serve for a small specimen of the ge- neral good intelligence our wise ministry have of all foreign affairs. If you were acquainted with the people whom they employ, you would not be surprised at it. Except My. Villette at Turin (who is a \iery reasonable man), there is not one of MR. WORTLEY. 267 them who knows any thing more of the country they inhabit, than that they eat and sleep in it. I have wrote you word that I left Geneva on the sharpness of the air, which much disagreed with me. I find myself better here, though the weather is very cold at present. Yet this situation is not subject to those terrible winds which reign at Geneva. I dare write you no news, though I hear a great deal. Direct to me at Chamberry en Savoye. par Paris, 268 LETTERS TO TO MR, WORTLEY. Chamberry, Dec, 22, 1741. I HAVE not heard from you since I came to this place; but I think it very possi- ble tlie letters may have miscarried : at this crisis all are suspected and opened, and consequently often lost. I send this by way of Geneva, and de'*ire you Avonld direct thither for me, recom- mended to monsieur Guillaurje Boisier. The company here is very good and sociable ; and I have reason to believe the air is the best in the world, if I am to form a judgment of it from the health and lono- life of the inhabitants. I have half a dozen fiicnds, male and female, Avho are all of them near or past four- score, who look and go about as if they were but forty. The provisions of all MR. WORTLEY. 269 sorts are extremely good, and the wine is, I think, the most agreeable I ever tasted ; and though the ground is now covered with snow, I know nobody troubled with colds, and I observe very few^ chronical distempers. The greatest inconvenience of the country is the few tolerable rides that are to be picked out, the roads being all mountainous and stony ; however, I have got a little horse, and sometimes ramble about after the manner of the duchess of Cleveland, which is the only fashion of riding here. I am very impatient to hear from you, and hope your business does not injure vour health. 370 LETTERS TO TO MR. WORTLEY. Chamberry, Jan. 25, 1/41. I HAD the pleasure of receiving yours of Nov. 25 yesterday, and am very glad to find by it that you are arrived in London in good health. I heartily wish you the continuance of it. My deafness lasted only a fortnight, though it frighted me very much. I have had no return of it since. Your advice to Mr. M. was cer- tainly right, but I am not surprised he did not follow it. I believe there are few men in the world (I never knew . any) capable of such a strength of reso- lution, .^s yourself. I have answered -your letter from Vienna, but as you do not mention having received mine, per- haps it is lost. I shall add a word or two more concerning the use of Turkish MR. WORTLEY. 271 wheat. It is generally declaimed against by all the doctors ; and some of them have wrote treatises to shew the ill con- sequences of it, in which they say, that since it has been sown (which is not above 100 years) it may be proved from the registers that the mortality is greater amongst the country people than it was formerly. I believe that may be true in regard to children, who are apt to cat greedily, it being very heavy of diges- tion ; but to those whose stomachs can bear it, and eat it Avith moderation, I am persuaded it is a clean strengthening diet. I have made strict observations and enquiries on the health and manner of life of the countries in which I have resided, and have found little difference in the length of life. It is true, gout, stone, and small-pox (so frequent M'ith \is), are little known here : in recom- pence, pleurisies, penpneumonies, and fevers (especially malignant), are far more 272 LETTERS TO usual : and I am clearly of opinion that, if an exact computation were made, as many die in Brescia as in London, in pro- portion to the different numbers. I have not heard from my daughter for a long time ; which may be occasioned by the bad ^veather. I hope both you and she, are well. I have wrote to her many long letters. MR. WORTLEY. 213 TO MR. WORTLEY. Avignon, June 1, 1743. I HOPE you will take care not to return to London, M'hile it is in this unliealtliy state. We are now very clear in these parts. Mrs. Bosville is gone to Turin, where they intend to reside ; she had the 2:ood foccune to meet an Eno-lish man -of- war on the coast, without which she Avould have found the passage very diffi- cult. She had so much her journey at heart, that she undertook to ride over the mountains from Nissa to Savona, hut I helieve (notwithstanding her youth and spirit) would have found the execution impossible. She has chosen tlie most agreeable court in Europe, where the English are extremely caressed. VOL. HI. T 274 LETTERS TO But it is necessary to be young and gay for such projects. All mine terminate in quiet; and if I can end my days with- out great pain, it is the utmost of my ambition. All the Eno-lish without di- stinction see the duke of Ormond* : lord Chesterfield (who you know is related to him) lay at his house during his stay in this town ; and to say truth, nobody can be more insignificant. JJe keeps an as- sembly where all the best conpany go twice in the week : I have been there sometimes, nor is it possible to avoid it M'liile I stay here ; I came hither not knowing where else to be secure, there being, at that time, strong appearances of an approaching rupture with France, and all Italy being in a flame. The duke lives here in great magnificence, is quite inofliensive, seems to have for- ' He was attainted in 17 16. MR. WORTLEY. 275 gotten every part of his past life, and to be of no party ; and indeed this is perhaps tlie town in the whole world, where politics are the least talked of. Tii 276 LETTERS TO TO MR, WORTLEY. Avignon, Dec. 20^ 1743. 1 RECEIVED yours of the 24th of No- vember, O. S. yesterday. You may, perhaps, hear of a trifle which makes a great noise in this part of the v/orld, which is, that I am building ; but the whole expence which I have contracted for is but twenty-six pounds. You know the situation of this town is on the meeting of the Rhosne and Dnrance. On the one side of it within the walls, was formerly a fortress built on a very high rock ; they say it v/as destroyed by lio-htnino' : one of the towers was left partly standing, the walls being a yard in thickness : this was made use of for some time as a public mill, but the height making it inconvenient for the carriage MR. WORTLEY. 277 of meal, it has stood useless many years. Last summer in the hot evenings I walked often thither, where I always found a fresh hreeze, and the most beau- tiful land prospect I ever saw (except Wharncliflfe) ; being a view of the wind- ings of two great rivers, and overlooking the whole country, with part of Lan- o-uedoc and Provence. I was so much charmed with it, that I said in compa- ny, that if that old mill were mine, I would turn it into a Belvidere ; my words were repeated, and the two con- suls waited on me soon after, with a do- nation from the town of the mill and the land about it : I have added a dome to it, and made it a little rotunda for the 'foresaid sum. I have also amused myself M'ith patching up an inscription, which I have communicated to the arch- bishop, wiio is much delighted with it ; but it is not placed, and perhaps never will be : 278 LETTERS TO * " Hic, O viator ! sub Lare parvulo, Maria hic est condita, hlc jacet, Defuncta humani laboris Sorte, supervacuaque vita. Non indecora pauperie nitens, Et non inerti nobilis otio, Vanoque dilectis ;popello Divitlis animosus hostis. Possis et illam dicere mortuam. En terra jam nunc quantula sufficit ! Exempta sit curis, viator. Terra sit ilia levis, precare ! Hic sparge flores, sparge breves rosas Nam vita gaudet mortua floribus Herbisque odoratis corona Vatis, adhuc cinerem calentem. * Lady Mary had the merit of applying Cowley's " Epitaphiunr vivi auctoris" published in his works, of which this is a copy, with grammatical alteration, where iiecessary. MR. WORTLEY. 21«) TO MR, WORTLEY. Avignon, Feb. \7, i 743-4. I AM sorry you have given yourself so much trouble about the inscription. I find I expressed myself ill, if you under- stood by my letter that it was already placed ; I never intended it without your approbation, and then w^ould have put it in the inside of the dome. The word *' pauperie" is meant, as is shewn by the whole line " Non indecora pauperie nitens," to be a life rather distant from ostentation than in poverty ; and which very well an- swers to my way of living, which, though decent, is far from the show which many families make here. The nobility consists of about two hundred houses : among them 2S0 LETTERS TO are two dukes, those of Crilion and Gua- dagna; the last an Itahan family, the other Freneh, The count of Suze, who values himself very much upon his pedigree, keeps a constant open table, as likewise several others. You ^vill judge by that the pro- visions are exceedingly cheap ; but for strangers the price of every thing is high. As all the gentlemen keep their lands in their own hands, and sell their corn, wine, and oil, their housekeeping looks very great, at a small expence. They have every sort of gibier from their own estates, which have never been taxed, the Pope drawing (as 1 am informed) no revenue from hence. The vice-legate has a court of priests, and sees little other company ; which, I believe, is partly owing to the little respect the nobility shew him, who despise his want of birth, ^fhere is a new one expected this spring, nephew to cardinal Acquaviva; he is young, and. MR. WORTLEY. 2S1 they say, inteiids to live with great mag- nificence. Avignon was certainly no town in the time of the Romans ; nor is there the smallest remains of any antioiiitv, but what is entirely Gothick. The town is large, but thinly peopled ; here are four- teen large convents, besides others. It is so well situated for trade, and the silk so fme and plentiful, that if they were not ciu'bed, the French not permitting them to trade, they would certainly ruin Lyons ; but as they can sell none of their manu- factures out of the walls of the to'.vn, and the ladies here, as every-where else, pre- ferring foreign stuifs to tijeir o^v^n, the tradespeople are poor, and the shops ill fartiished. The people of quality all aflect the French manner of living; and here are many good houses. The climate would be as fme as that of Naples, if tliey v/ere not persecuted by the nortli v, indj *2S2 LETTERS TO which is ahiiost a constant plague; yet by the great age of the inhabitants, and the surprising healtli which I see many of them enjoy, I am persuaded the air is very wholesome. I see some of both sexes past eighty, who appear in all the assem- blies, eat great suppers, and keep late hours, without any visible infirmity. It is to-day Shrove Tuesday, and I am invited to sup at the duchess of Crillon's ; where I shall meet near fifty guests, who will all of them, young and old, except myself, go masked to the ball, that is given in the town-house. It is the sixth given this carnival by the gentlemen giYitis. At the first there were 1200 tickets given out, many coming from the neighbouring towns of Carpentaras, Lisle, Orange, &c. and even Aix and Aries, on purpose to appear there. Don Philip is expected here on the 22d : I believe he will not stay any time; and if he should, I think in my present MR. NVORTLEY. 2S3 situation it would be improper for me to wait on him. If he goes nito compan}^ I suppose that I may indijfertntly see him at an assembly. 2.84 LETTERS TO TO MR. WORTLEY. Avignon, 23d March, 1 744. I TAKE this opportunity of" informing you, in what manner I came acquainted with the secret I hinted at in my letter of the 5 th of February. Tlie society of Free- masons at Nismcs presented the duke of Richelieu, governor of Languedoc, with a magnificent entertainment ; it is but one day's post from hence, and tlie duchess of Crillon, with some other ladies of this town, resolved to be at it, and almost by force carried me with them, which I am tem[)tcd to believe an act of Providence, considering my great rehictance, and the service it proved to be to the unhappy innocent ]jeople. The greater part of the MR. WORTLEY. 285 town of Nismes arc serious Protestauls, wliich are still secrc;tly punished accord- ing to the edicts of Lewis XIV. whenever they are detected in any public worship. A few days before we came, they had as- sembled; tlieir minister and about a dozen of his congregation were seized and im- prisoned. I knew nothing of this ; but I had not been in the town two hours, when I was visited by two of the most consider- able of the Hugonots, who came to beg of me, with tears, to speak in their fa\ our to the duke of Richelieu, saying none of the Catholics would do it, and the Protestants dared not. The duke of Richelieu was too well-bred to refuse to hsten to a lady, and I was of a rank and nation to have liberty to say what I pleased; they moved my compassion so much, I resolved to use my endeavour to serve them, though I had little hope of succeeding. I would not therefore dress myself for the supper, ]>ut went in a doirjno to the bajl, a mai>que 2S6 LETTERS TO giving opportunity of talking in a freer manner than I could have (lone, without it. I was at no trouble in engaging his conversation : the lady having told him I was there, he immediately advanced to- wards me ; and I found, from different motives, he had a great desire to be ac- quainted with me, having heard a great deal of me. After abundance of compli- ments of that sort, I made my request for the liberty of the poor Protestants , he with great freedom told me he was so little a bigot, that he pitied them as much as I did, but his orders from court were to send them to the galleys. However, to shew how much he desired my good opinion^ he was returning, and would solicit their freedom (which he has since obtained). This obligation occasioned me to continue the conversation, and he asked me what party the Pretender had in England j I answered, as I thought, a very small one. " We are told otherwise at Paris," said he^ MR. WORTLEY. 287 ^' however, a bustle at this time may serve to facihtate our projects, and we intend to attempt a descent ; at least it wdll cause the troops to be recalled, and perhaps admiral Mathews will be obliged to leave the passage open for Don Philip. " You may imagine how much I wished to give immediate notice of this ; but as all letters are opened at Paris, it would have been to no purpose to M'rite it by the post, and have only gained me a power- ful enemy in the court of France, he being so much a favourite of the king's, that he is supposed to stand candidate for the ministry. In my letter to sir Robert Walpole from Venice, I offered my ser- vice, and desired to know in what man- ner I could send intelligence, if any thing happened to my knowledge that could be of use to England. I believe he imagined that I wanted some gratifi- cation, and only sent me cold thank?, I have wrote to vou by the post au ac- 288 LETTERS TO MR. WORTLEY, count of my servant's leaving me. As that is only a domestic affair, I suppose the letter may be suffered to pass. I have liad no letter from him, and am very sure he is in the wron<>:, wlienever he does not follow your direction, mIio, apart from other considerations, have a stronger judgment than any of his advisers. END OF VOLUME III. Whitc-iriars. f UNIVERSITY OF CALIFORNIA LIBRARY Los Angeles This book is DUE on the last date stamped below. ¥ fiEC'D LO-UHI, iOCf 19 1876 At, U \UD liimJIW^'' ■m JAI\ c r 'W i \^ r> MAY OCT 1 2 1990 20m-7,'67(H3149s4) wmwk 1978 .■'^ #■ lllllililllillilllilllllliliilliillilll ^■ 3 1158 00288 5498 uc SOUTHERN REGIONAL LIBRARY FACILITY AA 000 365 138 7